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PURCHASED   FOR  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  TORONTO  LIBRARY 

FROM  THE 

CANADA  COUNCIL  SPECIAL  GRANT 

FOR 

LATIK  AMEB1GAE  STUDIES 


. 


• 


T1IE 


CAPTIVE  IN  PATAGONIA; 


OB, 


LIFE  AMONG  THE   GIANTS. 


PERSONAL   NARRATIVE. 


BY 


BENJAMIN  FRANKLIN  BOURNE. 


ttjr  illustrations. 


BOSTO  :$T 


hATE.... 

PUBLISHED    BY   D.  L 

DOVER,  N.  H. :    G.  T.  DAY  &  CO. 


, 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Consrress,  in  the  year  18WJ.  by 

GOULD    &    LINCOLN, 
In  the  Clerlrs  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  ol  Massachusetts. 


P  E  E  F  A  C  E. 


BOOK-MAKING  is  so  much  of  a  trade,  that  it  may  be 
thought  quite  unnecessary  to  be  at  the  trouble  to  assign 
reasons  for  embarking  in  it ;  but,  as  it  is  not  my  own 
vocation,  it  will  be  allowed  me  to  say,  that  the  deep 
interest  which  many,  not  only  of  my  personal  friends, 
but  others  whom  I  never  saw,  have  taken  in  my  for- 
tunes, and  the  desires  expressed,  both  verbally  and  by 
letter,  to  know  more  of  my  adventures  than  was  com- 
municated through  the  newspapers,  overcame  the  reluct- 
ance I  felt  to  undertake  such  a  task.  The  interest  of 
personal  adventure,  however,  great  as  it  might  be  in  im- 
mediate view  of  the  events  while  they  were  fresh,  would 
not  alone  have  been  presumed  upon  as  a  sufficient  attrac- 
tion for  this  volume.  But  the  strangeness  of  the  country 


XX  PREFACE. 

observed,  and  the  deficiency  of  exact  information  con- 
cerning its  people,  it  was  thought,  would  make  welcome 
any  contribution,  however  slight,  to  the  knowledge  of 
this  section  of  our  world  and  race.  After  the  contra- 
dictory statements  of  voyagers  as  to  the  "giants"  of 
South  America,  there  may  be  some  curiosity  to  hear 
the  testimony  of  one  who  has  "seen  the  elephant" 
under  circumstances  that  enabled  him  to  measure  its 
proboscis. 

My  story  is  a  plain  one,  —  a  simple  record  of  facts, 
but  not,  I  would  hope,  tedious.  It  offers  no  feats  of 
literary  agility  for  the  critic's  inspection,  but  a  recital 
of  human  experiences  and  observations,  sufficiently  aside 
from  the  beaten  track  of  life  to  have  attracted  a  degree 
of  attention  which  flatters  me  with  the  belief  that  they 
will  repay  a  nearer  and  more  minute  survey. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

For  California  —  Pernambuco  —  Straits  of  Magellan  —  Trading  with  Paia 
gonians  —  Their  treachery  —  Four  men  made  prisoners  by  them  —  Three 
escape  ;  the  author  detained,  with  promises  of  release  on  paying  ran- 
som —  Indian  village  —  The  chief  and  his  household  —  Eating,  sleep- 
ing, and  adventure  in  a  Patagonian  wigwam  —  Find  myself  booked  for 
an  indefinite  residence  in  Patagonia,  and  some  natural  reflections  there 
upon 25 

CHAPTER  II. 

A  proposal  to  go  to  Port  Famine  negatived  — «« Holland  "  —  Discovery  of 
vessels  in  the  straits  —  Double  disappointment  —  A  crisis  —  Survey  of 
Patagonia  —  Scanty  vegetation  —  Animals  and  birds  —  Climate  —  The 
people  —  Their  habits  and  character  —  Domestic  relations  —  Weap- 
ons —  Government  —  Superstition  —  Cannibalism  —  Their  reputation 
abroad  .  .  47 


XXII  CONTENTS. 

• 

CHAPTER  III 

Hard  jcurney  —  Encampment  —  Division  of  the  tribe  —  My  new  guardian 

—  Story  of  the  capture  of  a  British  vessel  —  Reunion  —  Gambling  — 
Culinary  arts  —  Hunting  —  Symptoms  of  danger  —  Mutual  deceptions 

—  Tough  yarns  —  The  fatal  ring  — An  effective  oration  —  Indecision  of 
the  Indians 63 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Corey  Inlet  —  Another  disappointment  —  A  hunting  frolic  with  an  un- 
pleasant termination  —  Moving  of  the  camp  —  Aimless  wanderings  — • 
Alarm  —  A  marriage  treaty  and  an  unsuccessful  suitor  —  Laws  of  mar- 
riage —  Qualifications  of  a  husband  —  Feminine  quarrels  —  A  marriage 
in  high  life  —  Dressing  meat  —  Profaneness  —  Absence  of  religious 
ideas  —  Mysterious  ceremony  —  Reasons  for  abstaining  from  religious 
instruction  —  The  metals  —  State  of  the  arts  in  Patagonia  —  Tailoring 
Fashion 78 

CHAPTER  V. 

Inclement  weather  —  State  of  my  wardrobe  —  Attempts  to  deprive  me  of 
my  clothes  —  Powwow  and  horse-killing  —  Hair-combing  extraordinary 

—  Remedy  for   rheumatism — Sickness  —  Turn   barber  —  A  cold  bath 

—  Fasting  —  Discovery   of   my   watch,   and  its    effect  —  I  am  made 
showman  —  lion-hunt — Successful  chase 100 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  chief's  oratory  —  A  case  of  sickness  novelly  treated  —  The  captive 
commissioned  as  physician  to  the  chief  —  Dr.  Bourne's  first  and  last 


CONTENTS.  XX1I1 

patient  —  Murder  —  Cannibalism  —  Another  assassination,  showing  the 
perils  of  meiical  practice  among  savages  —  Sports  of  the  children  — 
Patagonian  farriery  —  Slender  success  in  the  chase  —  A  second  struggle 
for  life 114 

CHAPTER  VII. 

A  uew  torture  —  Bloody  gossip  —  An  explosion  nearly  fatal  —  Plea  of  in- 
sanity —  Reconciliation — River  Santa  Cruz  —  Naval  architecture  — 
Original  mode  of  ferrying  —  Accident  —  Ominous  demonstrations  there- 
upon —  Perilous  superstition  —  Plans  of  escape  —  The  chief  fighting  his 
battles  over  again — Prospects  brighten — A  blind  hint  to  naturalists .  128 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Retrograde  march  —  A  look-out  ahead  —  New  specimens  of  birds  ob- 
served —  To  the  right  again  —  Large  inducements  to  visit  Holland  — 
Apparent  effect  —  Council  —  Other  tribes  of  Indians  —  Story  of  a  bat- 
tle —  Capture  of  wild  horses  —  A  royal  speech  worth  hearing  —  Dep- 
utation to  Holland  —  A  start  and  a  sudden  halt  —  Journey  commenced 
in  earnest  —  Order  of  arrangements  —  First  view  of  Holland  —  A 
weary  day  and  night  —  A  boat  —  A  short  parley  —  Swimming  for  life 
and  liberty  —  A  rescue  —  Farewell  to  Patagonia 144 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A  civilized  meal  —  A  happy  evening  —  A  survey  of  the  island  —  Prepar- 
ation of  guano  —  Preparations  against  invasion  by  the  giants  —  A  pro- 
posal to  attack  them—  Loyalty  and  revenge  — Killing  time  —  Trouble 


XXIV  CONTENTS. 

in  the  settlement  —  A  disagreeable   situation  —  Arrival  of  vessels - 
Countrymen  —  A  welcome  by  new  friends 166 

CHAPTER  X. 

A  Christian  ship-master  —  Cruise  for  whales,  and  for  a  California-bound 
vessel  —  An  outlandish  craft  —  An  American  vessel  —  Passage  secured 
for  California  —  Tempestuous  passage  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan 
—  W^like  demonstrations,  with  an  inglorious  issue  —  Chilian  penal 
settlement  —  Pleasing  reception  —  Extensive  coal-mine  —  Sea-lions  — 
Mutiny  of  the  convicts,  and  awful  fate  of  the  governor  and  chaplain.  189 

CHAPTER  XL 

Port  Famine  —  St.  Nicholas'  Bay,  and  its  inscriptions  —  Politeness  of  the 
Indians  declined  —  Difficulty  of  navigating  the  straits  —  A  post-bag  in 
a  bottle  —  An  English  steamer,  and  its  humane  errand  —  Exertions  of 
the  British  government  to  rescue  prisoners  in  Patagonia  —  American 
schooner  —  Celebration  of  our  safe  passage  through  the  straits  —  Juan 
Fernandez  —  News  from  home  —  A  chapter  of  accidents  —  A  trip  to 
Lima  —  Almost  an  adventure  —  Arrival  at  San  Francisco  —  Journey  to 
the  mines  —  A  happy  meeting 204 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  gigantic  speculation,  with  a  dwarfish  result  —  Perils  of  waters  —  Sick- 
ness and  bereavement  —  Growth  of  Sacramento  and  San  Francisco  — 
Voyage  homeward  —  Imposition  on  shipboard  —  Panama  —  Havana  — 
Home  —  Concluding  observations  —  Practicability  of  Christian  missions 
in  Patagonia  considered 223 


THE 

CAPTIYE   IN   PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER   I. 

For  California  —  Pernambuco  —  Straits  of  Magellan  — Trading  with  Pat*. 
gonians  —  Their  treachery  • —  Four  men  made  prisoners  by  them  —  Three 
escape  ;  the  author  detained,  with  promises  of  release  on  paying  ran 
som —  Indian  village  —  The  chief  and  his  household  —  Eating,  sleep- 
ing, and  adventure  in  a  Patagonian  wigwam  —  Find  myself  booked  for 
an  indefinite  residence  in  Patagonia,  and  some  natural  reflections  there- 
upon. 

AMONG  the  early  subjects  of  the  "  gold  fever  "  that  be- 
came epidemic  in  the  autumn  and  winter  of  1848—9,  a  com- 
pany of  twenty-five  men  left  the  port  of  New  Bedford  in 
the  schooner  John  Allyne,  A.  Brownell,  master,  and  B.  F. 
Bourne,  mate,  for  California.  The  vessel  had  been  se- 
lected for  her  good  sailing  qualities,  light  draught  of 
water,  and  general  fitness  for  river  navigation.  In  the 
haste  and  excitement  of  the  time,  California-bound  craft 
carried  out  some  rather  motley  companies  ;  but  we  consid- 
ered ourselves  fortunate  in  the  character  of  the  men  asso- 
ciated in  this  enterprise,  and  were  organized  on  such  prin- 
ciples of  equality  as  seemed  to  promise  entire  harmony  and 
.good  fellowship.  Of  course  we  had  high  ani  golden  hopes, 

a 


26  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

and  our  great  object  was  to  reach  the  new  OpL.r  in  tin 
easiest  and  most  expeditious  manner.  On  account  of  the 
delays  and  dangers  incident  to  the  doubling  of  Cape  Horn 
it  was  determined  to  attempt  the  passage  of  the  Straits 
of  Magellan. 

We  left  port  on  the  13th  of  February,  and  for  many 
days  our  time  passed  pleasantly,  but  rather  monotonously, 
with  nothing  greatly  to  exhilarate  or  to  depress  our  spir- 
its. It  was  discovered,  at  length,  that  our  vessel  needed 
some  running  rigging.  The  more  impatient  were  for  going 
on,  and  making  such  headway  as  we  could  without  it ;  but 
a  majority  of  the  company  decided  to  run  for  the  nearest 
convenient  port,  and  replenish.  We  accordingly  ran  for 
Pernambuco,  and  anchored  in  the  outer  harbor  on  the  25th 
of  March.  The  beauty  and  security  of  this  harbor  are 
remarkable.  It  is  defended  from  the  sea  by  a  nearly  per- 
pendicular reef,  extending  three-fourths  of  the  way  across 
its  entrance,  with  an  opening  of  ample  width  for  the 
passage  of  vessels  to  a  safe  anchorage.  Being  but  eight 
degrees  south  of  the  equator,  the  town  lies  continually 
under  the  burning  rays  of  a  tropical  sun.  Its  appearance 
is  like  that  of  most  Spanish  and  Portuguese  cities,  abound- 
ing in  high  and  massive  buildings,  with  more  of  the  castle 
than  of  the  counting-house  or  dwelling  in  their  outward 
expression,  built  upon  narrow,  irregular  streets,  that  are 
constantly  alive  with  men  and  beasts  of  divers  colors  and 
forms.  Men  from  the  country,  driving  their  mustangs, 
mules  and  asses,  laden  with  produce;  wealthy  and  noble  cit- 
izens borne  by  servants  in  palanquins ;  women  bearing 
water  in  buckets,  tubs  and  urns,  which  they  balance  on 
their  heads  without  the  aid  of  their  hands,  and  walk  off 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  27 

under  as  erect  as  so  many  midshipmen ;  —  all  the  sights 
and  sounds  have  a  pleasant  strangeness,  that  made  our 
visits  on  shore  highly  agreeable.  The  churches,  which  are 
quite  numerous,  have  nothing  admirable  or  attractive  out- 
side, but  the  richness  of  their  interior  decoration  testifies 
to  the  prevailing  orthodoxy  and  fervor  of  devotion  to  the 
Church  of  Rome.  The  church  is,  indeed,  the  grand  recep- 
tacle of  the  wealth  of  the  country.  Every  bueno  catclico 
of  them,  rick  or  poor,  will  sooner  stint  himself  and  his  fam- 
ily in  their  daily  comforts,  or  even  necessaries  of  life,  than 
omit  his  due  contribution  to  mother  church. 

Our  stay  at  Pernambuco  was  short,  which  must  excuse 
a  more  particular  description 'of  its  notabilities.  Having 
obtained  the  articles  we  needed,  we  stood  out  to  sea. 
Nothing  occurred  on  our  passage  to  the  straits  worthy  of 
particular  record.  We  spoke  one  or  two  vessels,  and 
spent  some  time  "  gaming "  with  them,  —  the  nautical 
phrase  for  visiting.  On  the  30th  of  April  we  made  Cape 
Virgin,  and  stood  in  for  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  In  com- 
pany with  us,  and  bound  for  the  same  golden  country,  by 
the  same  course  as  ourselves,  were  bark  Hebe,  of  Balti- 
more, and  schooner  J.  B.  Gager,  of  New  ^York.  We  were 
becalmed  off  the  mouth  of  the  straits  for  several  hours, 
and  Captain  Brownell  visited  the  Hebe.  He  returned  just 
before  night.  A  fair  wind  setting  in  from  the  eastward, 
we  all  stood  in,  the  J.  B.  Gager,  as  being  best  acquainted 
with  the  navigation,  taking  the  lead.  The  three  vessels 
anchored  about  midnight,  within  twelve  miles  of  the  first 
narrows. 

The  next  morning,  it  being  calm,  some  of  our  men  went 
on  shore  in  the  small  boat,  for  a  gunning  excuision. 


28  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

returned  early  in  the  forenoon,  with  a  large  number  of  sea- 
fowl:  Not  long  after,  Captain  Brownell  announced  his 
intention  to  go  ashore,  and  commenced  making  prepara- 
tions. He  soon  changed  his  mind,  however,  and  asked  me 
to  go,  in  his  stead,  to  procure  some  fresh  provisions,  if  they 
were  to  be  had.  Knowing,  from  the  reports  of  whalers 
and  others,  something  of  the  savage  character  of  the 
natives,  I  felt  reluctant  to  venture ;  but  afterwards,  to 
oblige  the  captain,  I  complied. 

Taking  our  guns,  a  bag  of  bread,  and  some  tobacco,  four 
of  us  started  for  the  shore.  As  we  approached  the  beach, 
a  crowd  of  black-looking  giants  came  to  the  water's  edge  to 
gaze  at  us.  We  did  not  particularly  fancy  their  looks,  and 
lay  on  our  oars  for  a  considerable  length  of  time.  A  recol- 
lection of  the  many  ugly  stones  current  about  the  Pat- 
agonians,  their  barbarous  and  cruel  character,  did  not 
greatly  fortify  our  confidence,  or  make  us  especially  anx- 
ious for  a  personal  acquaintance  with  them.  We  accord- 
ingly lay  off  in  our  boat,  and,  hailing  them  in  Spanish, 
asked  them  if  they  had  eggs,  fowls,  and  beef.  They  re- 
plied, in  broken  Spanish,  that  they  had  plenty  at  their 
houses.  I  told  them  to  produce  their  stores,  and  they 
should  have  plenty  of  bread  in  exchange.  We  parleyed 
with  them  for  some  time,  till  our  boat  at  length  touched  the 
shore.  I  stood  in  the  boat's  stern,  gun  in  hand,  endeav- 
oring to  keep  the  natives  from  stealing,  and  warned  the  men 
not  to  leave  the  boat.  They  jumped  ashore,  promising  not 
to  stray  from  the  spot.  The  Indians  offered  some  skins 
for  sale,  which  I  paid  for  in  bread.  While  my  attention 
was  diverted  from  them  by  this  barter,  the  Indians  were 
cc  axing  my  men  away.  I  looked  about,  and  found  only 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN   PATAGONIA.  29 

one  man  near  me.  He  was  despatched  in  pursuit  of  the 
others,  and  directed  to  bring  them  without  delay.  The  tide 
at  this  point  rises  and  falls  forty-two  feet.  It  was  now 
ebb  tide,  the  boat  was  fast  grounding,  and,  it  being  large 
and  heavily  loaded,  I  was  unable  to  get  it  off.  The  old 
chief  and  several  other  Indians  crowded  into  it,  and  once  in 
could  not  be  got  out.  Persuasion  was  useless,  and  they  were 
too  many  to  be  driven.  In  short,  I  was  in  their  hands,  and 
became  immediately  conscious  of  the  difficulty  and  peril  of 
my  situation ;  —  my  men  gone,  I  knew  not  where,  the 
boat  fast  aground  and  crowded  with  the  savages,  while 
nearly  a  thousand  of  the  tribe  congregated  upon  the  beach. 
What  was  before  me,  at  the  worst,  I  could  only  conjecture 
from  report ;  and  nothing  but  evil  was  reported  of  the  crea- 
tures that  surrounded  me.  What  could  I  do  ?  A  question 
easier  asked  than  answered. 

After  a  long  time,  or  what  seemed  such  under  circum- 
stances that  made  minutes  seem  ages,  one  of  my  men  came 
down,  and  asked  permission  to  go  to  the  Indian  village, 
"  a  little  way  back  from  the  shore,"  as  they  had  been 
promised  meat,  eggs,  and  fowls.  I  ordered  him  to  come 
immediately  back  to  the  boat.  He  persisted  in  urging 
his  request,  but  it  was  so  dangerously  absurd  that  I  ab- 
solutely refused.  He  then  said  he  would  inform  his  com- 
rades of  my  refusal,  and  return  immediately  to  the  boat ; 
but,  for  some  cause,  they  seemed  in  no  hurry  to  obey  or- 
ders. Weary  of  waiting  for  them,  and  not  without  appre- 
hension, I  asked  an  Indian  for  the  use  of  his  horse,  and 
rode  with  all  speed  after  the  fugitives.  In  the  hurry  of 
pursuit  I  inadvertently  passed  them,  and  tried  to  turn 
back  my  steed ;  but  his  inclinations  were  decidedly  against  a 
3* 


30  THE   CAPTIVE    IN   PVTAGONIA. 

retreat.  While  our  opposing  impulses  kept  us  stationary 
for  a  moment,  I  descried  my  men  approaching  on  horseback, 
behind  the  Indians.  When  they  came  up  I  urged  them 
to  return  to  the  boat.  They  persisted  in  going  with  the 
savages.  I  remonstrated  with  them  on  the  impropriety 
and  danger  of  their  course,  but  in  vain.  Their  mouths 
watered  for  the  meat  and  eggs  they  were  told  of.  Their 
cunning  guides  had  completely  allayed  suspicion,  and  even 
laid  to  sleep  their  common  prudence.  The  Indians  kept 
on  their  course,  —  the  men  followed,  and  I  felt  at  my 
wits'  end.  I  rode  from  one  to  another,  talking  as  indus- 
triously and  as  urgently  as  I  could.  At  last  I  gave  them 
peremptory  orders  to  return.  The  Indians  had  plainly  lied 
to  us.  Their  village,  they  said,  was  only  a  little  way  off; 
and  yet  we  were  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  boat,  and 
not  a  house  was  yet  in  sight.  Determined  to  go  back,  if  I 
had  to  go  alone,  I  turned  my  horse's  head. 

At  this  point  the  mask  was  thrown  off.  The  Indians 
seized  my  bridle,  and  arrested  my  progress.  We  all  dis- 
mounted, with  a  view  to  retreat  on  foot,  but  before  I  could 
reach  the  man  nearest  to  me  the  Indians  had  robbed  him 
of  his  gun.  With  a  mutual  agreement  to  stand  by  each 
other  in  case  of  pursuit,  we  hastened  our  retrograde  march, 
but  had  made  no  great  distance  when  we  saw  the  Indians 
coming  after  us.  They  rode  in  advance  of  us,  halted  in 
our  front,  and  manoeuvred  to  cut  off  our  retreat ;  but  by 
various  zigzag  movements,  or  boldly  turning  their  horses' 
heads,  we  made  considerable  progress.  Our  foes,  however, 
knew  what  they  were  at ;  it  was  only  a  question  of  time 
with  them,  A  sudden  and  decided  movement  indicated  a 
crisis.  I  drew  my  pisttls  (a  pair  of  single-barrelled  ones), 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  81 

"  hut  before  I  had  time  to  cock  one  I  was  jumped  upon 
from  behind  by  some  half-dozen  of  these  monsters.  One 
of  them  grasping  a  pistol  by  the  barrel,  I  pointed  it  to  his 

*head  and  pulled  the  trigger.  It  missed  fire,  and  I  thank 
God  that  it  did !  Its  discharge  would  have  certainly  killed 
him,  and  would  as  certainly  have  been  revenged  upon  my 
life,  probably  upon  the  lives  of  my  comrades.  This  is  easily 
felt  and  said  now;  but  at  the  moment,  when  excited  by  the 
struggle  for  liberty,  and,  as  I  feared,  for  life,  with  such 
dreaded  enemies  and  at  such  formidable  odds,  it  was  quite 
another  matter. 

The  old  chief  now  came  up,  took  me  firmly  by  the  wrist, 
and  said,  "  Usted  no  bono !  usted  habla  varmano  por  me 
casa,  mucho,  mala  hombre  currarhae !  mucho  montaro  hom- 
bre  !  "  —  by  which  specimen  of  choice  Spanish  he  desired  to 
inform  me  that  we  promised  to  go  to  their  houses,  and  now 
would  not  go  ;  that  we  were  bad  men  and  liars.  His  pecu- 
liarly thick  and  guttural  pronunciation  did  not  make  tht 
dialect  more  intelligible;  but  I  was  in  a  situation  where 
criticism  would  have  been  rather  out  of  place,  and  my  ears 
were  quickened  by  the  revelations  made  to  sight.  I  there- 
fore promptly  replied,  that  if  he  would  restrain  his  men 
from  violence,  we  would  go  where  he  pleased.  They,  mean 
while,  grasped  their  knives,  and  looked  as  if  they  wanted  to 
use  them  on  our  persons ;  but  the  chief  told  them,  No,  not 
then ;  he  would  get  rum  and  tobacco  for  us  first,  and  kill 
us  afterwards.  Whilst  I  was  thus  engaged,  my  nearest 
companion  dis«  overed  his  gun  in  the  hands  of  an  Indian 
who  stood  not  far  from  where  1  was  struggling.  Rushing 
suddenly  upon  him,  he  succeeded  in  recovering  his  piece, — 
moie  by  tact  Mian  force,  for  his  antagonist,  like  all  the 


32  THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

Patagonians,  was  very  large  and  muscular.  Then  nimbly 
jumping  aside,  he  told  me  to  look  out  for  myself.  That 
was  rather  more  than  I  felt  able  to  do  just  at  the  moment. 
One  Indian  seized  me  by  my  arms  and  legs,  some  of  them 
grasped  my  body,  and  others  were  busy  investigating  the 
contents  of  my  pockets,  and  appropriating  the  same  to 
their  own  use.  And  if  he  supposed  himself  able  to  show 
as  much  independence  as  he  recommended  me  to,  he  was 
evidently  mistaken.  He  had  not  elevated  his  gun  to  his 
face  when  the  Indians  were  upon  him,  and  wrenched  it 
from  his  grasp.  The  old  chief,  all  this  time,  held  me 
tightly  by  the  wrist,  menacing  his  followers  with  his  half- 
drawn  cutlass,  while  I  endeavored  to  bid  for  life  and  liber- 
ty. I  told  him  he  should  have  plenty  of  rum,  tobacco,  bread, 
flour,  brass  and  beads,  if  he  would  carry  us  to  the  boat.  At 
length  he  beat  off  my  plunderers,  and  seemed  on  the  point 
of  yielding  to  my  terms.  He  mounted  his  horse,  and 
ordered  me  to  get  up  behind  him.  I  obeyed  with  alacrity, 
and  fancied  myself  in  a  fair  way  to  get  out  of  trouble. 

But,  whatever  may  have  been  the  chief's  original  inten- 
tion, I  had  not  gone  far  before  his  policy  was  diverted.  One 
of  the  most  audacious  of  the  troop  rode  up,  and  insisted  that 
I  should  not  be  allowed  to  return.  I  was  the  captain  of 
the  ship,  he  affirmed,  and  if  I  were  restored  they  would 
get  none  of  the  promised  rum  and  tobacco.  The  old  sav- 
age seemed  struck  by  this  new  suggestion,  and  halted.  We 
then  dismounted,  and  he  led  the  horse  up  the  hill,  order- 
ing me  to  follow.  I  was  next  directed  to  sit  on  the  ground 
and  wait  further  action.  There  I  sat,  looking  alternately, 
with  longing  eyes,  at  the  boat,  and  at  our  vessel  riding  at 
anchor  in  pUin  view.  My  three  companions  were  soon 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN   PATAGONIA..  33 

brought  to  the  sp}t,  anl  dismounted.  And  now  began  a 
more  earnest  negotiation.  We  offered  large  ransom,  and 
after  some  higgling  they  agreed  that  three  of  our  number 
might  be  released,  but  one  must  remain  as  a  hostage  ;  and 
I  was  pointed  out  as  the  one.  I  endeavored  to  have  one  of 
the  others  stay,  and  one  actually  agreed  to  ;  but  his  heart 
soon  failed  him,  and  I  could  see  that  he  was  using  all 
his  powers  of  persuasion  to  provide  for  himself.  I  assured 
him  that  I  would  use  every  effort  in  his  behalf,  if  he  would 
consent  to  remain  for  the  present ;  but  he  evidently  thought 
of  the  maxim,  "A  bird  in  the  hand,"  &c.,  and  was  bent  on 
making  sure  of  his  own  safety  first  of  all.  Poor  fellow  ! 
I  cannot  blame  him  for  loving  his  own  life,  though,  at  the 
moment,  it  did  seem  rather  hard  that,  after  getting  into 
the  scrape  by  their  own  headstrong  folly,  against  my  en- 
treaties and  peremptory  commands,  they  should  extricate 
themselves  from  it  at  my  expense,  and  leave  me  to  bear 
the  hardest  of  it !  Very  likely  I  might  have  done  the 
same,  if  our  cases  had  been  reversed.  And,  even  if  one 
of  them  had  offered  to  remain,  it  is  very  doubtful  whether 
the  substitution  would  have  been  permitted.  The  Indians 
too  evidently  regarded  me  as  the  chief  prize,  and  were 
bent  on  retaining  me  as  such.  They  insisted  that  I  must 
stay  while  the  other  three  should  go  for  ransom,  and  I  had 
nothing  to  do  but  to  submit. 

Three  Indians  each  took  a  man  with  him  on  a  horse,  and 
started  for  the  boat.  I  watched  them  as  they  went,  with 
feelings  that  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe.  It  seemed  but 
too  probable  we  sliDuld  never  meet  again.  A  sense  of  deso- 
lation came  over  ir.3,  at  the  thought  of  being  left  alone  in 
the  power  of  these  savages,  of  whose  *reachery  and  cunning 


34  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

1  hf;i  already  had  such  ample  experience,  and  of  whose 
cruelty  I  had  heard  so  much.  I  felt  that  I  was  beyond  the 
aid,  if  not  cut  off  from  the  sympathy,  of  my  associates. 
The  falseness  of  the  Indians  to  all  their  engagements,  as  I 
afterwards  learned,  was  signally  displayed  towards  my  more 
fortunate  comrades.  They  evidently  had  no  intention  of 
releasing  any  of  us.  Before  reaching  the  boat,  they  halted, 
and  refused  to  go  any  further,  or  allow  our  men  to  leave 
them.  The  prisoners,  however,  struggled  desperately,  and 
at  length  got  clear  of  their  captors.  One  rushed  up  to  his 
neck  in  water,  the  others  sprang  into  the  boat,  pushed  off, 
and  rescued  him  as  he  was  struggling  with  the  waves. 
They  reached  the  schooner,  told  their  tale,  and  represented 
my  desperate  situation.  All  hands  commenced  breaking 
up  cargo,  to  get  at  the  rum  and  tobacco  for  my  ransom. 
Two  boats  were  forthwith  manned,  provided  with  the  re- 
quired articles,  and  with  plenty  of  arms  and  ammunition, 
and  started  for  the  shore.  They  got  to  the  land  a  little 
before  dark,  and  pulled  into  a  cove,  or  slight  indentation 
of  the  beach. 

On  catching  sight  of  them,  I  desired  the  Indians  to  con- 
duct me  to  the  shore,  and  receive  the  ransom.  But  this 
they  declined.  They  ordered  me  to  the  summit  of  an 
eminence  near  by,  there  to  beckon  the  men  to  come  ashore. 
An  old  skin  was  given  me  to  wave  as  a  signal.  Perceiving 
that  I  was  to  be  used  as  a  decoy  to  lure  the  others  into 
their  treacherous  snare,  and  secure  them  all  as  prisoners, 
I  protested  against  this  new  breach  of  faith,  and  assured 
them  that  our  men  would  not  leave  their  boat,  but  that,  if 
they  want^l  any  rum  and  tobacco,  they  must  take  me  to 
the  shore  To  this,  after  a  long  palaver,  and  with  visible 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  35 

reluctance  they  assented.  The  old  chief  ordered  me  to 
mount  his  horse,  —  this  time  reversing  our  relative  pos'- 
tions  ;  je  made  me  sit  on  the  rude  apology  for  a  saddle  and 
guide  the  horse,  while  he  took  his  seat  behind,  clasping 
both  arms  tightly  around  my  body,  and  spurring  his  old 
nag  forward.  Thus  mounted,  and  wondering  what  would 
be  the  next  trick  of  the  savages,  I  was  conveyed  to  the 
shore,  near  the  spot  where  the  boats  lay  off  on  their  oars. 
Driving  as  near  them  as  possible,  I  hailed  the  men,  —  told 
them  by  no  means  to  fire  on  the  Indians,  but  to  give  them 
all  they  had  promised.  They  asked  what  they  should  do 
with  the  articles.  I  turned  to  the  chief,  told  him  what  the 
boats  had  brought,  and  once  more  asked  if  it  was  a  satis- 
factory ransom.  He  said,  Yes ;  if  those  articles  were  laid 
down,  I  should  be  released.  But  he  was  plainly  resolved  to 
have  his  pay  in  advance;  he  distrusted  us  too  much  to  let 
me  go  first ;  and  I  need  not  say  that  my  confidence  in  him 
was  far  from  implicit.  But,  "  Nothing  venture,  nothing 
have,"  —  I  directed  the  men  to  put  the  things  ashore,  which 
they  did.  The  Indians  greedily  picked  them  up,  and  I 
claimed  my  release.  The  old  rascal  said,  "  he  had  not  got 
plenty  of  rum  yet,  he  must  have  a  barrel."  I  insisted  and 
struggled,  but  to  no  purpose.  He  kept  a  tight  hold  of  my 
body,  and  when  I  begged  that  at  least  he  would  not  squeeze 
me  quite  so  painfully,  he  only  redoubled  his  clasp.  He 
obviously  suspected,  and  I  more  than  suspected,  that  it 
would  not  require  a  very  great  relaxation  of  his  embrace 
to  prompt  a  pretty  decided  movement  on  my  part,  for  the 
effectual  resisting  of  which  the  vicinity  of  the  water  was 
not  altogether  favorable.  He  now  began  spurring  his  old 
horse  from  the  scene  of  action  ;  I  drew  upon  the  bridle 


36  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

with  my  whole  available  force  and  weight ;  but  the  dis- 
parity between  human  strength  and  horse  power,  stim- 
ulated to  its  utmost  by  the  spur,  was  too  great.  I  begged 
the  men  in  the  boats  to  come  again  the  next  morning,  and 
on  no  account  to  leave  me,  which  they  solemnly  promised. 

I  was  now  hurried  back  into  the  country  five  or  six 
miles,  and  at  last  reached  an  Indian  village,  and  was  set 
down  by  the  old  chief  at  his  wigwam.  He  gave  me  in 
charge  to  one  of  his  squaws,  who  ordered  me  into  the  hut 
and  bade  me  sit  down  on  the  ground.  While  sitting  there, 
and  casting  an  inquisitive  glance  around  the  rude  habit- 
ation, my  attention  was  suddenly  attracted  to  what  ap- 
peared to  be  several  pairs  of  eyes  in  a  dark  corner,  shining 
with  a  strange  brilliancy.  I  speculated  silently  on  the 
sight,  much  doubting  whether  they  belonged  to  human 
beings  or  to  wild  beasts ;  but,  on  carefully  reconnoitring, 
I  discovered  that  they  belonged  to  three  huge  women. 
Further  investigations  disclosed  a  number  of  dark-skinned 
boys  and  girls,  of  divers  ages  and  sizes,  playing  and 
capering  about  the  premises,  in  a  state  of  perfect  nudity. 
It  took  a  considerable  time  to  make  out  these,  or  any 
other  objects,  distinctly,  owing  to  the  darkness  of  the  hut. 
Presently  the  chief,  the  patriarch  of  the  tribe,  entered 
his  habitation,  and  began  a  conversation,  in  his  peculiar 
dialect,  with  his  wives.  He  spoke  in  a  low,  guttural  tone, 
in  words  the  purport  of  which  I  could  not  gather.  I 
was  in  no  mood  for  conversation,  but  would  have  been 
much  gratified  by  learning  his  version  of  the  day's  "  stroke 
of  business." 

And  now  a  few  dry  sticks  and  a  bunch  of  dry  grass 
were  brought,  mine  host  drew  from  a  convenient  repos- 


THE   CAPTIVE     N    PATAGONIA.  37 

itory  a  brass  tinder-box,  with  a  stone  and  a  piece  of  steel, 
and  soon  produced  a  blaze  that  brilliantly  illuminated  the 
scene.  By  its  light  I  was  enabled  to  survey  the  first 
specimen  of  Patagonian  architecture  that  had  blessed  my' 
vision.  It  was  constructed  in  a  pointed  style,  though  not 
very  aspiring,  consisting  of  a  row  of  stakes  about  eight 
feet  high,  each  terminating  at  top  in  a  crotch,  or  fork, 
with  a  pole  laid  across  them ;  two  parallel  rows  of  stakes 
on  either  side,  about  two  feet  high,  with  similar  termi- 
nations, and  a  similar  horizontal  fixture ;  and  a  covering 
composed  of  skins  of  the  guanaco,  sewed  together  with 
the  sinews  of  the  ostrich,  the  only  thread  used  by  the 
people.  This  covering  is  drawn  over  the  frame-work,  and 
fastened  by  stakes  driven  through  it  into  the  ground. 
For  purposes  of  ventilation  some  interstices  are  left,  but 
these  again  are  half  closed  by  skins  attached  to  the  out- 
side ;  so  that  the  air  from  without,  and  the  smoke  from 
within  (in  default  of  a  chimney),  must  insinuate  them- 
selves through  these  apertures  in  great  moderation.  In 
truth,  my  first  survey  was  rather  hurried ;  the  first  cheer- 
ful gleam  had  scarcely  set  my  eyes  on  the  look-out  when 
I  was  fain  to  shut  them  against  an  intolerable  smoke.  In 
no  long  time  I  felt  as  bacon,  if  conscious,  might  be  sup- 
posed to  feel  in  the  process  of  curing.  No  lapse  of  time 
was  sufficient  to  reconcile  my  eyes,  nostrils  and  lungs, 
to  the  nuisance ;  often  have  I  been  more  than  half  strangled 
by  it,  and  compelled  to  lie  with  my  face  to  the  ground,  as 
the  only  endurable  position.  Talk  that  is  "worse  than  a 
smoky  house  "  must  be  something  out  of  date,  or  Shak- 
speare's  imagination  never  comprehended  anything  so 
detestable  as  a  Patagonian  hut.  The  chief  and  his  nurner- 
4 


38  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

ous  household,  however,  seemed  to  enjoy  immense  satid 
faction ;  and  jabbered  and  grunted,  and  played  their  antics, 
and  exchanged  grimaces,  as  complacently  as  if  they 
breathed  a  highly  exhilarating  atmosphere. 

My  meditations  and  observations  were  shortly  inter 
rupted  by  preparations  for  a  meal.  The  chief's  better 
half —  or  rather  fifth  part,  for  he  had  four  wives  —  super- 
intended the  culinary  operations,  which  were  as  rude  and 
simple  as  the  hut  where  they  were  carried  on.  And  now 
my  fancy  began  to  conjure  up  visions  of  the  beef,  fowls 
and  eggs,  the  promise  of  which  had  lured  my  men  from 
the  boat,  —  had  proved  stronger  than  the  suggestions  of 
prudence,  and  had  made  me  a  prisoner.  But  these  dainties, 
if  they  existed  anywhere  within  the  chief's  jurisdiction, 
were  just  at  present  reserved.  The  old  hag  threw  down 
from  the  top  of  one  of  the  stakes  that  supported  the  tent 
the  quarter  of  some  animal ;  whether  dog,  guanaco,  or 
whatever,  was  past  imagining.  She  slashed  right  and 
left,  with  might  and  main,  an  old  copper  knife,  till  it  was 
divided  into  several  pieces.  Then  taking  a  number  of 
crotched  sticks,  about  two  feet  long,  and  sharpened  at  all 
their  points,  she  inserted  the  forked  ends  into  pieces  of 
the  meat,  and  drove  the  opposite  points  into  the  ground 
near  the  fire ;  which,  though  sufficient  to  smoke  and  com- 
fortably warm  the  mess,  was  too  feeble  to  roast  it.  At 
all  events,  time  was  too  precious,  or  their  unsophisticated 
appetites  were  too  craving,  to  wait  for  such  an  operation; 
and  the  raw  nursels  were  quickly  snatched  from  the 
smoke,  torn  into  bits  by  her  dirty  hands,  and  thrown  upon 
the  ground  before  us.  The  Indians  seized  them  with 
avidity,  and  tossed  a  bit  to  me ;  but  what  could  I  do  witli 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  39 

it  ?  I  should  have  had  no  appetite  for  the  dinner  of  an 
alderman  at  such  a  time  and  place ;  but  as  for  tasting 
meat  that  came  in  such  a  questionable  shape,  there  was  no 
bringing  my  teeth  or  resolution  to  it.  While  eying  it 
with  ill-suppressed  disgust,  I  observed  the  savages,  like  a 
horde  of  half-starved  dogs,  devouring  their  portions  with 
the  greatest  relish ;  seizing  the  fragments  with  their  fine 
white  teeth,  at  the  same  time  clenching  them  with  their 
hands,  and  giving  every  sign  of  enjoyment  except  what  one 
is  accustomed  to  see  in  human  beings.  The  old  chief  re- 
marked the  slight  I  was  putting  upon  his  hospitality,  and 
broke  in  upon  me  with  a  fierce  Por  que  usted,  no  munge 
usted,  usted  carna  ?  Esta  carna  mucko  bueno  hombre  par 
munge,  se  hombre,  munge !  "  Why  don  't  you  eat  your 
meat  ?  This  meat  very  good  to  eat,  —  very  good  to  eat. 
Eat,  man  !  eat ! "  I  may  here  observe  that  my  knowledge 
of  Spanish,  like  the  chief's,  was  colloquial;  picked  up 
here  and  there  in  voyages  to  South  American  ports,  which 
may  account  for  my  orthography  being  so  plainly  deter- 
mined by  the  ear  rather  than  by  any  rules  of  Castilian 
grammar.  "  Seeing  him  so  much  excited,  and  not  knowing 
what  deeds  might  follow  his  words  if  I  refused,  I  thought 
it  expedient  to  try  to  "  eat  what  was  set  before  me,  ask- 
ing no  questions ;  "  thinking,  moreover,  that  if  there  were 
any  evil  spirit  in  it  that  the  fire  had  failed  to  expel,  it 
could  not  possibly  have  resisted  the  smoke.  So,  being 
eorely  divided  between  aversion  to  the  "  strange  flesh  "  and 
fear  of  showing  it,  I  forced  a  morsel  into  my  mouth.  Its 
taste  was  by  no  means  as  offensive  as  its  appearance  had 
been  unpromising,  and  I  managed  to  save  appearances 
with  less  disgust  than  I  had  fearod.  This  was  my  first 


40  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

meal  with  the  savages,  and  a  sample  of  many  others; 
though  better  viands  afterwards  varied  their  monotony, 
now  and  then. 

The  eating  being  over,  a  large  horn,  that  had  once 
adorned  the  head  of  a  Spanish  bullock,  was  dipped  into 
a  leathern  bucket  and  passed  from  one. to  another.  Be- 
tween the  bucket  and  the  horn,  the  fluid  had  gained  a 
flavor  not  found  by  Adam  in  his  first  brewing,  and,  indeed, 
not  far  from  nauseating.  However,  it  seemed  expedient 
to  "  conquer  my  prejudices "  so  far  as  to  drink  with  the 
other  guests,  and  the  ceremonies  of  dinner  were  over  ;  for 
which,  "  with  all  other  mercies,"  I  felt  thankful,  and 
turned  to  my  corner  near  the  expiring  fire,  to  chew  the 
cud  of  sweet  and  bitter  fancies,  in  which  the  latter  in- 
gredient decidedly  predominated.  The  strange  and  sudden 
desolateness  of  my  condition,  the  doubtful  chances  of 
escape,  the  possible  sufferings  before  me,  the  uncertainty 
that  rested  on  the  designs  of  my  savage  captors,  all 
rushed  upon  my  mind,  and  suggested  to  my  heated  imag- 
ination a  host  of  terrors. 

These  painful  thoughts  were  interrupted  by  an  order 
to  prepare  for  the  night's  repose.  An  old  skin,  about  two 
and  a  half  feet  square,  was  thrown  upon  the  cold  ground 
in  the  back  part  of  our  rookery,  and  assigned  for  my 
cou-^h  ;- 1  took  possession  accordingly,  and  the  whole  family 
bestowed  themselves  in  a  row  near  me.  The  stifling  at- 
mosphere was  soon  vocal  with  their  snoring.  My  brain 
was  too  busy  for  sleep.  Feverish  fancies  kept  me  wakeful. 
I  revolved  a  variety  of  plans  for  escape.  Could  I  steal 
out  of  the  hut  unperceived  ?  Could  I  find  my  way  to  the 
shore  ?  I  doubted  the  first,  and  more  than  doubted  the 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  41 

second ;  and  even  if  so  far  successful,  there  was  no  boat 
to  take  me  from  the  accursed  land.  And  how  could  I 
conceal  myself  from  the  Indians  till  a  boat  should  arrive  ? 
They  would  miss  me ;  and,  long  before  any  possible  com- 
munication with  my  vessel,  would  be  hunting  me  down 
with  horses  and  dogs.  Not  a  wood  or  thicket  had  met 
my  eye  on  the  dreary  waste  I  traversed  the  day  before. 
I  tried  to  devise  some  other  plan,  but  none  offered  itself. 
It  was  this  or  nothing,  — and  this  was  next  to  nothing. 
Grown  desperate,  at  last,  I  determined  to  make  an  effort. 

After  lying  some  time,  listening  to  the  heavy  breathing 
of  the  sleepers,  and  satisfying  myself  that  none  of  the 
*  company  were  awake,  I  raised  myself  as  noiselessly  as 
possible,  and  stole  towards  the '  front  of  the  wigwam. 
Casting  a  furtive  glance  backward,  I  could  see  that  the 
old  chief  was  restless ;  either  he  had  feigned  sleep,  or  some 
evil  spirit  had  waked  him  just  at  the  wrong  time.  To  go 
immediately  back  would  too  plainly  betray  my  purpose; 
so  I  walked  very  calmly  and  deliberately  into  the  open  air, 
and  stood  as  if  star-gazing ;  the  old  fellow,  as  I  plainly 
perceived,  all  the  time  watching  me  from  the  lodge.  In 
a  short  time  I  walked  quietly  back  to  my  dark  retreat, 
and  found  him  where  I  had  left  him,  lying  very  coseyly, 
as  if  nothing  had  happened  to  disturb  his  slumbers. 
Once  more  stretching  myself  on  my  uneasy  couch,  I  lay 
two  hours  or  more,  still  revolving  the  same  unsolved 
problem  in  my  mind.  At  length,  all  appearing  to  be  sound 
asleep,  I  decided  to  venture  a  second  attempt ;  and,  in 
the  event  of  failure,  to  make  the  best  of  it  for  the  present. 
Stealfhily  as  possible  I  crawled  from  among  them,  slid 
out  of  doors,  and  crouched  upon  the  grass.  Could  I  be 


42  THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

mistaken?  N)  —  those  infernal  eyes  were  fastened  on  me 
as  before '  There  was  no  eluding  their  vigilance.  At 
this  moment  a  howling  as  of  a  hundred  wolves  was  heard 
approaching,  and  about  that  number  of  dogs  came  rush- 
ing, pell-mell,  towards  me.  I  scampered  for  the  wigwam 
as  fast  as  my  feet  could  carry  me,  and  in  my  flight 
stumbled  over  a  stick  nearly  eight  feet  long.  I  seized 
the  weapon  thus  kindly  lent  me,  and,  swinging  it  furiously 
about  me,  gave  all  intruders  that  came  within  my  reach 
a  sufficient  touch  of  its  quality.  Thus  defending  myself 
from  the  brutes,  I  backed  towards  the  lodge,  glad  to  shelter 
myself  among  its  detested  inmates.  The  cunning  old  Pa- 
rosilver,  as  before,  had  bestowed  himself  on  the  ground 
among  his  squaws  and  dirty  children,  and  was,  apparently, 
fast  asleep. 

This  was  more  than  I  could  compass.  Vexation  at 
my  fruitless  attempts  to  escape,  —  dread,  inspired  by  the 
relentless  vigilance  and  quiet  assurance  of  the  chief,  — 
tormenting  apprehensions  as  to  the  issue  of  any  effort  on 
the  morrow  to  effect  my  ransom,  —  all  kept  my  brain 
upon  the  rack,  and  effectually  drove  sleep  from  my  eyes, 
till  near  daylight,  when  I  fell  into  a  disturbed  slumber. 
In  my  dreams  I  was  at  once  transported  from  the  savage 
hut,  on  board  my  vessel.  Methought  she  was  driving  before 
the  wind,  all  sails  set,  at  full  speed,  upon  a  dangerous  reef. 
All  on  board  seemed  insensible  of  the  danger ;  I  alone 
perceived  it,  but  a  nightmare  spell  was  on  me,  and  my 
lips  1 ifused  to  speak,  my  limbs  to  move.  Rooted  to  my 
place  on  the  deck,  I  stood  in  dumb  agony,  while  our 
vessel  rushed  upon  her  fate.  There  came  a  sudden 
—  our  bark  tad  struck,  and  ha  total  destruction 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  43 

was  inevitible.  Some  of  the  men  were  dashed  violently 
upon  the  deck,  others  precipitated  into  the  boiling  surf, 
where  they  clung  desperately  to  spars,  and  fragments  of 
the  wreck.  While  the  confusion  was  wildest,  and  the 
dream  of  effort  for  escape  was  subsiding  into  the  calmness 
of  despair,  I  suddenly  awoke,  and  for  some  time  was  un- 
able to  comprehend  where  I  was,  or  how  I  came  there.  If 
I  were  indeed  shipwrecked,  I  was  also,  like  Jonah,  vomited 
upon  dry  land.  I  drew  my  hand  across  my  eyes  to  assure 
myself  that  vision  was  unobstructed,  cast  my  eyes  right 
and  left;  —  the  lodge,  the  ashes  of  the  last  night's  fire, 
the  chief  and  his  motley  family,  the  door  through  which 
the  "  lubber  fiend  "  had  followed  me  with  his  restless  eyes, 
and  into  which  the  fierce  dogs  had  driven  me,  recalled  my 
distracted  senses,  and  restored  consciousness  of  a  reality 
which,  at  the  moment,  I  would  aljnost  have  exchanged  for 
the  wildest  terrors  of  my  dream. 

With  the  light  calmer  thoughts  succeeded,  and  I  once 
more  addressed  myself  to  the  task  of  effecting  my  escape. 
The  first  thing  was  to  get  the  chief  with  me  to  the  shore, 
in  readiness  to  meet  a  boat,  and  to  renew  negotiations 
for  my  liberty.  Observing  that  he  was  awake,  I  began 
to  promise  him  an  abundant  supply  of  the  articles  most 
tempting  to  his  fancy,  on  condition  of  my  release.  He 
carelessly  replied  that  he  would  go  with  me  to  the  beach 
by  and  by.  I  tried  to  urge  his  departure,  being  anxious 
to  go  without  the  rabble  at  his  heels  the  day  before,  but 
for  whose  viol  ^nce  he  would  now  hardly  be  master  of  me ; 
but  there  was  no  hurrying  his  movements.  He  took  down 
his  little  cutlass,  drew  it  from  its  brazen  scabbard,  and 
comme-iced  sharpening  it  with  a  rusty  file,  trying  its 


44  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

edge  with  his  fingers  as  the  work  went  on,  and  casting  side 
glances  at  me  the  while.  Whether  this  ceremony  was 
the  preface  to  some  act  of  violence  he  meditated,  or  a 
scene  for  effect,  to  fill  me  with  a  wholesome  dread  of  his 
power,  I  could  not  guess;  but,  determined  to  show  no 
foolish  fears,  I  thought  it  best  to  put  a  bold  face  upon 
the  matter,  and  make  an  equally  striking  demonstration 
of  courage  and  presence  of  mind,  qualities  which  savages 
generally  appreciate.  I  therefore  approached  him,  tried 
the  edge  with 'my  own  fingers,  praised  the  beauty  of  the 
instrument,  and  interested  myself  in  the  process  of  sharp- 
ening it.  Following  up  my  assault  on  his  vanity,  I  ex- 
tolled him  as  one  of  the  best  of  men,  and  assured  him 
that  when  we  got  to  the  shore  I  would  amply  reward  him 
for  his  kindness  to  me;  taking  occasion,  however,  to  throw 
in  a  hint  qn  the  vast  importance  of  starting  early.  This 
I  enforced  by  the  suggestion  that,  when  he  got  his  good 
things,  the  fewer  there  were  present,  the  fewer  claimants 
there  would  be  to  divide  the  spoils. 

After  much  coaxing,  he  started  after  his  old  horse ; 
I  mounted  behind  him,  and  we  moved  slowly  off.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  shore  it  was  blowing  a  perfect  gale.  A 
boat  could  not  live  in  the  billows.  All  three  vessels  had 
dragged  their  anchors,  and  lay  at  some  distance  from  their 
anchorage  of  yesterday.  Bark  Hebe  appeared  to  be  drag- 
ging towards  the  Orange  Bank,  a  dangerous  shoal.  I 
afterwards  learned  that  the  Hebe,  after  getting  into  water 
as  shoal  as  would  barely  float  her,  slipped  her  cables, 
put  up  a  little  sail,  and  finally  succeeded  in  weathering 
the  shoal  and  getting  safely  out  to  sea.  The  J.  B.  Gager 
vas  dragging  in  the  same  direction.  My  own  vessel  was 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  45 

holding  on  better  than  the  others,  and  I  hoped  she  would 
ride  out  the  gale  in  safety. 

I  made  my  captors  understand  the  reason  why  no  boat 
had  come,  as  promised;  with  which  they  appeared  to  be 
satisfied,  and  we  returned  as  we  came.  By  means  of 
their  broken  Spanish,  which  they  had  picked  up  from 
sailors,  and  in  visits  to  the  Chilian  or  other  Spanish 
American  settlements,  and  by  signs,  amounting  at  times 
pretty  nearly  to  a  pantomime,  I  found  myself  able  to 
understand  inquiries  or  commands,  and  to  make  known  my 
wishes. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  we  again  visited  the 
shore,  and  I  looked  eagerly  toward  the  anchorage,  where 
all  my  hopes  of  deliverance  centred.  Not  a  vessel  was 
in  sight !  Whether  they  had  foundered,  or  were  driven 
upon  the  shoal  and  wrecked,  or  had  dragged  out  to  sea 
in  a  disabled  condition,  —  or  whether  my  shipmates,  the 
gale  having  subsided,  had  deliberately  proceeded  on  their 
voyage,  and  left  me  a  prey  to  cruel  savages  and  all  the 
ills  of  this  inhospitable  shore,  —  I  was  unable  to  con- 
jecture. I  only  knew  that  they  were  gone,  and  that  1 
was  left  alone  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  Patagonians. 
No  present  means  of  escape  appeared.  The  future,  wisely 
hidden  from  my  view,  suggested  none  to  my  imagination. 
I  told  my  captors  the  worst ;  that  the  high  winds  had 
probably  sunk  the  ships,  and  all  that  were  in  them.  At 
this  intelligence  they  seemed  delighted,  and  laughed  im- 
moderately, as  if  such  a  calanrty  were  a  consolation  for 
the  loss  of  their  expected  random.  Their  cruel  glee  could 
add  nothing  to  the  weight  of  my  desolation.  My  past 
life  was  sealed  up  as  if  by  an  entrance  on  a  new  state 


46  THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

of  being.  1  looked  round  on  a  bleak  and  cheerless  region, 
and  forward  on  a  life  as  barren  of  human  joy,  made  up 
of  every  species  of  suffering,  —  hunger,  cold,  fatigue,  insult, 
torture,  —  liable  to  be  cut .  short  at  any  moment  TDy  the 
caprice  of  my  tormentors,  and  so  wretched  that  death 
itself,  with  all  the  enormities  of  cannibalism,  lost  its  ter- 
rors by  comparison.  Life,  for  any  good  or  great  purposes 
to  be  achieved,  was  over.  And  then  my  thoughts  turned 
to  far  different  scenes,  —  to  happy  faces,  and  pleasant 
voices,  and  familiar  sights;  —  to  hearts  that  beat  with  no 
iread  of  this  day's  calamities,  felt  no  consciousness  kin 
dred  to  my  despair,  but  would,  in  due  time,  be  rudely 
awakened  from  th  .ir  security.  GOD  help  me,  for  I  am 
helpless  now ! 


THE   CAPTITE   IN    PATAGONIA.  47 


CHAPTER   II. 

A.  proposal  to  go  to  Port  Famine  negatived  —  "  Holland  "  —  Discovery  of 
vessels  in  the  straits  —  Double  disappointment  —  A  crisis  —  Survey  of 
Patagonia  —  Scanty  vegetation  —  Animals  and  birds  —  Climate  —  The 
people  —  Their  habits  and  character  —  Domestic  relations  —  Weapons 
—  Government  —  Superstition  —  Cannibalism  —  Their  reputation  abroad. 

RETURNING  to  the  encampment,  it  remained  to  devise 
some  new  way  of  escape.  Some  four  or  five  days'  ride  to 
the  westward  would  bring  us  to  Port  Famine,  on  the 
straits,  a  penal  settlement  of  Chili,  and  the  only  settlement 
in  the  vicinity  by  which  I  could  hope  to  reenter  the  civil- 
ized world.  A  journey  thither  was  suggested  to  the  In- 
dians, as  the  -most  likely  way  of  turning  my  captivity  to 
profitable  account ;  but  they  refused  with  a  promptness  and 
decisiveness  which  was  rather  unaccountable,  till  I  after- 
wards learned  that  they  had  lately  visited  that  part  of  the 
country  on  a  horse-stealing  expedition,  in  which  their  suc- 
cess had  been  too  good  to  make  them  desirous  of  showing 
their  faces  there  at  present.  Money,  guns,  pistols,  cut- 
lasses, brass,  beads,  and  everything  else  that  could  be 
thought  of  to  tempt  their  cupidity,  were  offered.  I  was 
not  disposed  to  be  niggard  of  promises ;  but  in  vain.  To 
Port  Famine  they  were  determined  not  to  go  ;  but  old 
Parosilver  assured  me,  "by  way  of  compensation,  that  he 


48  THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

would  take  me  to  "  Holland,"  which  was  a  "  much  better 
place."  Whereabout  on  terra  firma  this  South  American 
Holland  was  situated,  —  if,  indeed,  there  was  any  such 
place,  and  the  chief  was  not  indulging  in  a  little  extra 
lying,  —  was  past  all  conjecture.  I  inquired  the  distance. 
He  could  not  tell  exactly.  Was  it  inhabited  by  Americans 
or  English  ?  There  were  "  twenty  or  thirty  white  men 
there,  and  plenty  of  rum  and  tobacco."  They  promised  to 
?tart  with  me  towards  Holland  the  next  day.  In  what 
direction?  They  pointed  towards  the  Atlantic.  Well,  I 
cared  little  where  it  was,  or  who  lived  there,  provided  only 
they  were  not  Patagonians,  and  I  could  once  get  free  of 
these  rascals.  But  on  the  following  morning  the  migration 
was  postponed,  in  consequence  of  unexpected  tidings. 

One  of  the  tribe,  who  had  been  down  to  the  shore,  re- 
ported that  my  vessel  had  come  back.  This  welcome, 
though  rather  improbable  information,  started  me,  with 
about  a  dozen  of  them,  on  the  track  of  his  story.  On 
gaming  a  view  of  the  straits,  a  vessel  was  plainly  in  sight, 
but  it  was  a  strange  sail.  Yet,  if  I  could  succeed  in 
boarding  her,  my  purposes  would  be  answered.  She  came 
into  the  bight  of  the  bay,  and  anchored  about  fifteen  miles 
below  us.  I  endeavored  to  make  my  smutty  companions 
comprehend  that  as  the  tide  was  then  running  out  they 
would  not  make  the  shore  till  it  turned,  which  would  not 
be  till  night.  They  waited  till  near  night,  when  hunger 
and  thirst  wore  out  their  patience,  and  they  ordered  me  off 
with  them.  Against  this  untimely  mandate  I  warmly  re- 
monstrated, and  after  some  dispute  it  was  arranged  that 
the  chief  should  stay  with  me  for  the  night.  The  rest 
returned  to  their  encampment,  and  we  made  a  good  fire. 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  49 

which  was  kept  up  till  nearly  mornirg.  Old  Parosilver 
lay  down  under  the  lee  of  a  clump  of  bushes,  while  I  was 
busy  in  active  exercise  to  keep  warm,  and  replenishing  the 
fire  with  dry  bushes.  At  dusk  I  had  observed  the  vessel 
hoisting  sail,  and  beating  up  the  bay.  On  this  I  began 
brandishing  firebrands  to  attract  notice,  and  walked  to  and 
fro  on  the  beach  for  hours.  The  craft  gradually  ap- 
proached, till  her  white  canvas  became  distinguishable 
through  the  surrounding  gloom.  Fresh  fuel  was  heaped  on 
the  fire,  a  bright  blaze  ascended  ;  I  took  my  station  directly 
in  front  of  it,  holding  out  my  coat,  and  frequently  turning 
round,  that  my  form  and  features  might  be  more  distinctly 
revealed.  And  now  a  thrill  of  joy  electrified  me,  as  I  saw 
a  light  set  on  deck,  which  appeared  to  be  stationary. 
There  could  be  no  doubt  that  the  vessel  had  come  to 
anchor  directly  opposite  to  us.  Though  hungry  and  weary 
with  long  watching,  I  hurried  about,  and  gathered  sticks 
and  leaves  in  abundance  to  kindle  a  still  brighter  beacon- 
fire,  in  whose  light  and  warmth  anxiety  began  to  expand 
into  hope.  At  dawn  of  day,  as  the  horizon  lighted  up,  I 
could  distinguish  the  vessel  lying  about  a  mile  off,  quiet  as 
a  sea-fowl  on  the  calm  surface.  Presently  there  was  a 
movement  on  deck,  the  anchor  was  hove  up,  the  fore  and 
main  sails  were  hoisted,  and  the  object  on  which  my  hopes 
and  ardent  prayers  had  centred  through  the  cold  night 
receded  from  view  through  the  straits,  bound,  doubtless,  for 
California.  I  watched  the  fast-vanishing  sail  with  tearful 
eyes ;  and  the.  old  chief,  who  had  been  on  the  look-out, 
started  for  his  horse,  that  had  been  hampered  and  turned 
out  to  crop  among  the  scanty  vegetation. 

Before  I  had  time  to  recover  from  the  first  revulsion  of 
5 


50  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

disappointment  and  grief,  another  vessel,  a  topsail  school  <»rs 
came  in  by  Point  Dungeness.  "  Cheer  up,"  I  said  to  my- 
self; "the  sun  will  be  shining,  the  darkness  have  given 
place  to  the  clear  day,  before  this  vessel  can  be  up  and 
opposite  to  us."  Confident  of  being  noticed,  I  began 
active  preparations  for  the  approaching  visitor.  No  rod 
of  sufficient  length  was  to  be  found  ;  but,  after  some  search, 
a  number  of  short  crooked  sticks  were  collected.  To  lash 
them  together,  I  tore  up  my  drawers,  which  I  eould  ill 
afford,  and  appropriated  my  shoe-strings.  My  flannel  shirt 
was  hoisted  as  a  flag;  and  having  replenished  the  tire,  I 
paced  the  beach  with  colors  flying,  but,  as  the  vessel  ap- 
proached, with  increasing  faintness  of  heart;  for  the  wind 
gradually  shifted,  so  that  she  could  only  take  advantage  of 
it  by  heading  towards  Terra  del  Fuego.  At  last  she  came 
opposite,  but  so  near  the  further  shore  that  the  chances  of 
success  diminished  every  moment.  Dark  objects  moved  on 
the  deck,  —  fancy  painted  them  as  men  ;  —  would  they  not 
discover  me  through  their  glasses,  and  be  drawn  by  my 
signal  of  distress  ?  No  ;  onward  she  floated  away,  —  the 
narrows  were  soon  passed,  and  my  vision  of  deliverance  was 
dissipated. 

With  this  final  death-blow  to  all  present  hopes  of  relief, 
I  turned  away  in  despair.  Exhausted  by  hunger,  cold  and 
fatigue,  and  worn  out  by  houVs  of  .anxiety,  I  fell  helpless 
upon  the  ground,  and  wept  like  a  child.  For  the  first  time 
I  felt  utterly  forsaken,  and  repined  at  my  lot  as  one  of 
unmitigated  evil.  Effort  seemed  useless ;  I  had  neither 
resolution  nor  strength  to  make  further  exertion.  There 
was  nothing  for  me  but  listless  endurance.  I  even  re- 
proached myself  that  I  had  not  cast  myself  into  the  sea, 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  51 

and  staked  my  life  on  the  chance  of  swimming  to  the 
schooner.  There  was  no  possibility  of  doing  this ;  but 
failure  would  have  been  only  death,  and  what  was  life 
worth  to  me  here  ?  This  tempest  of  self-reproach  soon 
spent  itself.  My  temperament  is  too  buoyant  to  be  long 
depressed,  and  calm  and  stout  thoughts  took  the  place  of 
despairing  weakness.  It  was  unmanly,  something  whis- 
pered within  me,  thus  to  give  way  before  difficulties.  It 
would  be  time  enough  to  do  this  when  all  possible  effort 
had  failed.  The  weak  and  imbecile  might  take  refuge  in 
despair,  but  the  strength  of  youth  should  serve  me  better. 
I  called  to  mind  examples  of  courage  in  greater  emer- 
gencies, when  obstacles  that  seemed  insurmountable  had 
been  conquered  by  fortitude  and  perseverance.  "Heaven 
helps  those  who  help  themselves."  The  more  I  reflected 
on  the  matter,  the  stronger  grew  the  impulses  of  faith  and 
courage,  by  whose  force  it  seemed  possible  to  win  a  triumph 
against  the  greatest  odds.  Before  rising  from  the  earth, 
my  resolution  was  fully  taken  to  throw  discouragement  to 
the  winds ;  by  the  help  of  God  to  meet  whatever  impended 
with  the  courage  of  a  man  ;  to  bear  my  calamities  with 
patient  endurance ;  and  to  give  up  hope  and  energy  only 
when  nothing  was  left  to  be  attempted,  or  the  power  to  do 
and  suffer  was  exhausted. 

I  rose  a  new  man, — my  strength  invigorated,  my  soul 
fortified  by  a  strong  purpose.  Though  the  cold  night  air 
had  thoroughly  chilled  my  frame,  it  now  felt  a  warmth 
kindled  by  the  fires  within,  and  an  unaccustomed  flush  suf- 
fused my  countenance.  The  resolve  fixed  in  this  memor- 
able crisis  of  my  captivity,  though  severely  tested,  was 
never  whollv  overborne.  Henceforth,  tl  e  events  and  scenes 


52  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

through  (rhich  I  passed  were  viewed  with  a  calmness  that 
had  beea  before  unattainable,"  and  which  is  now  scarcely 
credible,  on  recollection.  So  true  is  it  that  our  strength  is 
unknown  to  ourselves  till  it  is  thoroughly  tested. 

The  hope  of  immediate  release,  however,  was  at  an  end; 
my  savage  captors,  it  seemed,  must  be  looked  upon  as  for 
an  indefinite  period  my  masters  and  companions ;  and  I  had 
nothing  at  present  to  do  but  to  divert  myself  by  a  study 
of  their  manners  and  habits;  to  consult  my  safety  by  a 
close  study  of  their  character,  and  of  the  ways  and  means 
by  which  so  to  adapt  my  deportment  to  it  as  to  win  their 
confidence,  to  disarm  hostility,  and  to  seize  opportunities. 

PATAGONIA,  as  it  offered  itself  to  my  observation,  more 
than  answered  the  descriptions  of  geographers,  —  bleak, 
barren,  desolate,  beyond  description  or  conception,  —  only 
to  be  appreciated  by  being  seen.  Viewed  from  the  Straits 
of  Magellan,  it  rises  in  gentle  undulations  or  terraces. 
Far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  in  a  westerly  direction,  it  assumes 
a  more  broken  and  hilly  appearance,  and  long  ranges  of 
mountains,  extending  from  north  to  south,  divide  the  eastern 
from  the  western  shore.  The  soil  is  of  a  light,  sandy  char- 
acter, and  bears  nothing  worthy  the  name  of  a  tree.  Low 
bushes,  or  underwood,  are  tolerably  abundant,  and  in  the 
valleys  a  coarse,  wiry  grass  grows  luxuriantly.  Streams 
of  water  are  rare.  The  natives  draw  their  supplies  prin- 
cipally from  springs  or  pools  in  the  valleys,  the  water  of 
which  is  generally  brackish  and  disagreeable. 

The  variety  of  animal  is  nearly  as  limited  as  that  of  veg- 
etable productions.  The  guanaco,  a  quadruped  allied  to 
the  lama,  and  with  some  resemblance  to  the  camelopard, 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  t>3 

is  found  in  considerable  numbers.  It  is  larger  than  the 
red  deer,  fleet  on  the  foot,  usually  found  in  large  herds, 
frequenting  not  only  the  plains,  but  found  along  the  course 
of  the  Andes.  Its  flesh  is  a  principal  article  of  food ;  its 
skin  is  dried  with  the  hair  on,  in  such  a  manner  that,  when 
wet,  it  retains  its  pliability  and  softness.  This  process  of 
preserving  skins  seems  to  be  peculiar  to  the  Indian  tribes, 
and  is  not  unlike  that  by  which  buffalo-robes,  bear-skins., 
buckskins,  and  other  articles  of  luxury,  and  even  necessity, 
among  us,  are  prepared  by  the  North  American  .Indians. 
Guanaco-skins  are  cut  into  pieces  of  all  sizes,  and  sewed 
into  a  thousand  fanciful  patterns,  every  workman  origi- 
nating a  style  to  suit  himself.  The  hoofs  are  sometimes 
turned  to  account  by  the  natives  as  soles  for  shoes,  when 
they  indulge  in  such  a  luxury,  which  is  not  often. 

The  enemy  of  the  guanaco  is  the  cougar,  or  "  American 
lion,"  smaller  than  its  African  namesake,  and  more  re- 
sembling the  tiger  in  his  character  and  habits,  having  a 
smooth,  sleek  coat,  of  a  brownish  yellow  color,  —  altogether 
a  very  beautiful  but  ferocious  creature.  His  chase  is  a 
favorite,  though  rare  and  dangerous,  sport  of  the  natives. 
Patagonia  likewise  boasts  of  the  skunk,  whose  flesh  is  used 
for  food.  There  are  also  foxes,  and  innumerable  mice.  Of 
birds,  the  only  noticeable  varieties  are  the  condor,  in  the 
Andes,  and  the  cassowary,  a  species  of  ostrich,  smallei 
than  that  of  Africa,  on  the  plains ;  its  plumage  is  not 
abundant,  generally  of  a  gray  or  dun  color.  Its  flesh  is 
tender  and  sweet,  and  with  the  fat  much  prized  by  the 
Indians.  Like  the  African  ostrich,  it  is  exceedingly  swift, 
only  to  be  captured  on  horseback,  and  often  fleet  enough  to 
outrun  tk.3  fastest  racer. 
5* 


54  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

JTbe  climate  is  severe.  The  Rio  Negro  forms  the  northern 
bounlary,  and  nearly  the  whole  country  is  south  of  the 
parallel  of  40°  south  latitude.  At  the  time  of  my  capture, 
which  was  in  the  month  of  May,  the  weather  corresponded 
to  that  of  November  in  the  New  England  States.  Its  chilli- 
ness, however,  was  greatly  increased  bythe  bleak  winds  of 
that  exposed  locality.  Along  the  Straits  of  Magellan  the 
weather  is  also  exceedingly  changeable.  Sudden  and  severe 
squalls,  often  amounting  almost  to  a  hurricane,  vex  the 
navigation  of  the  straits,  and  sweep  over  the  coast  with 
fearful  fury. 

The  habits  of  the  Patagonians,  or  at  least  of  the  tribe 
among  whom  I  was  cast,  are  migratory,  wandering  over  the 
country  in  quest  of  game,  or  as  their  caprice  may  prompt 
them.  They  subsist  altogether  on  the  flesh  of  animals  and 
birds.  The  guanaco  furnishes  most  of  their  food,  and  all 
their  clothing.  A  mantle  of  skins,  sewed  with  the  sinews 
of  the  ostrich,  fitting  closely  about  the  neck  and  extending 
below  the  knee,  is  their  only  article  of  dress,  except  in  the 
coldest  weather,  when  a  kind  of  shoe,  made  of  the  hind  hoof 
and  a  portion  of  the  skin  above  it,  serves  to  protect  their 
inferior  extremities. 

In  person  they  are  large;  on  first  sight,  they  appear 
absolutely  gigantic.  They  are  taller  than  any  other  race  I 
have  seen,  though  it  is  impossible  to  give  any  accurate 
description.  The  only  standard  of  measurement  I  had  was 
my  own  height,  which  is  about  five  feet  ten  inches.  I 
could  stand  very  easily  under  the  arms  of  many  of  them, 
and  all  the  men  were  at  least  a  head  taller  than  myself. 
Their  averag^  height,  I  should  think,  is  nearly  six  and  a 
half  feet,  and  there  were  specimens  that  could  have  been 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  55 

little  less  than  seven  feet  high.  They  have  broad  shoulders 
full  and  well-developed  chests,  frames  muscular  and  finely 
proportioned,  the  whole  figure  and  air  making  an  impres- 
sion like  that  which  the  first  view  of  the  sons  of  Anak  is 
recorded  to  have  made  on  the  children  of  Israel.  They 
exhibit  enormous  strength,  whenever  they  are  sufficiently 
aroused  to  shake  off  their  constitutional  laziness  and  exert 
it.  They  have  large  heads,  high  cheek-bones,  like  the 
North  American  Indians,  whom  they  also  resemble  in  their 
complexion,  though  it  is  a  shade  or  two  darker.  Their 
foreheads  are  broad,  but  low,  the  hair  covering  them  nearly 
to  the  eyes  ;  eyes  full,  generally  black,  or  of  a  dark  brown, 
and  brilliant,  though  expressive  of  but  little  intelligence. 
Thick,  coarse,  and  stiff  hair  protects  the  head,  its  abundance 
making  any  artificial  covering  superfluous.  It  is  worn 
long,  generally  divided  at  the  neck,  so  as  to  hang  in  two 
folds  over  the  shoulders  and  back,  but  is  sometimes  bound 
above  the  temples,  by  a  fillet,  over  which  it  flows  in  ample 
luxuriance.  Like  more  civilized  people,  the  Patagonianc 
take  great  pride  in  the  proper  disposition  and  effective  dis- 
play of  their  hair.  Their  teeth  are  really  beautiful,  sound 
and  white,  —  about  the  only  attractive  and  enviable  feature 
of  their  persons.  Feet  and  hands  are  large,  but  not  dis- 
proportionate to  their  total  bulk.  They  have  deep,  heavy 
voices,  and  speak  in  guttural  tones,  —  the  worst  guttural  I 
ever  heard,  —  with  a  muttering,  indistinct  articulation, 
much  as  if  their  mouths  were  filled  with  hot  pudding. 
Their  countenances  are  generally  stupid,  but,  on  closer  in- 
spection, there  is  a .  gleam  of  low  cunning  that  flashes 
through  this  dull  mask,  and  is  increasingly  discernible  on 
acquaintance  with  them ;  when  excited,  or  engaged  in  any 


56  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

earnest  business  that  calls  their  faculties  into  full  exercise, 
their  features  light  up  with  unexpected  intelligence  and 
animation.  In  fact,  as  one  becomes  familiar  with  them,  he 
will  not  fail  to  detect  an  habitual  expression  of  "  secretive- 
ness  "  and  duplicity,  which  he  will  wonder  he  did  not 
observe  sooner.  They  are  almost  as  imitative  as  monkeys, 
and  are  all  great  .liars;  falsehood  is  universal  and  in- 
veterate with  men,  women  and  children.  The  youngest 
seem  to  inherit  the  taint,  and  vie  with  the  oldest  in  dis- 
playing it.  The  detection  of  a  falsehood  gives  them  no 
shame  or  uneasiness.  To  these  traits  should  be  added  a 
thorough-paced  treachery,  and,  what  might  seem  rather  in- 
consistent with  their  other  qualities,  a  large  share  of  vanity, 
and  an  immoderate  love  of  praise.  They  are  excessively 
filthy  in  their  personal  habits.  Hydrophobia,  so  to  speak, 
is  a  prevailing  distemper  ;  they  never  wash  themselves. 
Hands  and  faces  are  covered  with  dirt,  so  thick,  and  of 
such  ancient  deposit,  that  their  jiatural  color  .only  appears 
in  spots,  laid  bare  by  the  mechanical  loosening  and  dis- 
placement of  some  of  the  strata,  which  curiously  variegates 
the  surface.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  remark  that  such  a 
condition  of  the  skin  is  highly  favorable  to  the  increase  and 
multiplication  of  "  the  moving  creature  that  hath  life," 
wherewith  their  persons  are  abundantly  peopled. 

The  women  are  proportionally  smaller  than  the  men, 
and  rather  inclined  to  embonpoint.  The  old  chief  had  four 
wives,  though  he  had  probably  never  heard  of  Mahomet  or 
his  domestic  laws.  The  rest  of  the  tribe  had  only  one  wife 
apiece.  The  women  erect  the  wigwams,  provide  fuel  and 
co)k,  —  if  the  opera  ion  should  be  dignified  with  that  name, 
•—  in  short,  all  the  drudgery  falls  to  their  lot  They  arc 


THE   CAPT1  7E    IN    PATAGONIA.  57 

treated  as  slaves,  but  made,  in  most  respects,  afc  comfortable 
in  their  servitude  as  the  condition  of  their  tfude  masters 
will  admit.  When,  however,  their  lords  a/e  excited  by 
gambling,  or  enraged  for  any  or  no  cause,  the  fury  of 
passion  is  visited  upon  their  defenceless  heads,  which  they 
bear  uncomplainingly,  with  a  meek  submissiveness  worthy 
of  better  treatment.  They  are  passionately  fond  of  trinkets 
and  clumsy  ornaments,  such  as  bits  of  brass  and  copper, 
beads,  and  the  like,  which  they  wear  suspended  from  their 
necks.  A  few  of  them  had  their  ears  pierced,  and  wore 
brass  or  copper  ear-rings ;  and  many  of  them  decked  out 
their  children  with  similar  rude  finery,  which  is  valued 
more  than  anything  else,  except  rum,  tobacco  and  bread. 
The  men  paint  or  bedaub  their  faces  and  breasts  with  a 
kind  of  red  earth.  Charcoal  is  also  used  as  a  cosmetic.  A 
broad  line  of  red  alternating  with  a  stripe  of  black,  in 
various  fantastic  figures,  is  a  favorite  style  of  decoration. 
The  women  make  themselves,  if  possible,  still  more  hideous; 
by  the  application  of  a  pigment  made  of  clay,  blood  and 
grease.  Some  of  them  would  be  very  comely,  if  only 
cleanly,  and  content  to  leave  nature  less  strenuously 
adorned. 

The  people  are  as  deficient  in  the  morals  as  in  the  re- 
finements and  courtesies  of  domestic  life ;  their  licentious- 
ness is  equal  to  their  cruelty, — the  filth  of  their  persons 
only  too  faithfully  represents  the  degree  in  which  "  their 
mind  and  conscience  is  defiled."  I  saw  no  person,  of 
either  sex,  that  appeared  to  have  attained  advanced  age. 
though  it  was  difficult  to  judge  of  this.  The  oldest  Indian 
I  remember  to  have  seen  did  not  seem  to  be  above  sixty. 

Their  only  wealth,   aside  from  their  huts,  consists  of 


5S  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

horses,  the  stock  of  which  is  frequently  repleirshed  by 
stealing  from  the  Spanish  and  Chilian  settlements.  These 
animals  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  small  size  and  inferior 
quality,  half  wild,  coated  with  coarse,  shaggy  hair  —  lean 
and  woe-begone  enough,  just  "  fit  for  the  crows."  A  few 
valuable  specimens  of  a  superior  breed  are  found  among 
them,  doubtless  "  conveyed  "  there.  The  rude  saddles  in 
use  among  them  are  mostly  of  Spanish  origin,  obtained  at 
the  settlements.  They  consist  each  of  two  boards,  an  inch 
thick,  six  inches  wide,  and  two  feet  long,  rounded  at  the 
corners  so  as  to  fit  the  horse's  back,  and  united  by  two 
strips  of  board  passing  across  the  back-bone,  the  several 
pieces  lashed  together  with  leather  strings.  A  piece  of 
guanaco-skin  often  serves  in  default  of  a  saddle.  The 
steed  is  guided  by  a  single  rein,  tied  round  the  lower  jaw  ;• 
some  of  them  sport  a  bit  of  iron  or  wood,  secured  by  a 
string  round  the  jaw,  attaching  the  rein  to  this.  Spurs, 
like  the  rest  of  their  riding  apparatus,  are  more  efficient 
than  elegant.  They  are  indeed  rude  and  cruel  things,  — 
straight  sticks,  six  inches  long,  with  a  long,  sharp  iron 
inserted  into  the  end,  secured  by  a  string  or  strap  around 
the  hollow  of  the  foot,  and  tied  at  the  top,  a  second  strap 
nearer  the  heel,  and  a  third  passing  round  the  heel.  They 
are  all  agile  and  excellent  horsemen. 

For  weapons,  the  chief,  and  a  few  of  the  principal  men, 
had  cutlasses  or  swords.  They  had  no  fire-arms,  nor  could 
1  learn  that  they  understood  their  use ;  bows  and  arrows, 
ppears  and  war-clubs,  appeared  to  be  equally  unknown. 
All  the  men  carried  knives ;  and  the  lolas,  a  missile 
weapon  used  in  the  capture  of  all  kinds  of  game.-  This 
consists  of  two  round  Atones,  or  lead  balls,  if  they  can  be 


THB   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAU)NIA.  59 

procured,  weighing  eacL  about  a  pound,  connected  by  a 
strap  or  thong  of  leather,  ten  or  twelve  feet  long.  When 
engaged  in  the  chase,  his  horse  at  his  highest  speed,  the 
rider  holds  one  ball  in  his  hand,  and  whirls  the  other 
rapidly  above  his  head ;  when  it  has  acquired  sufficient 
momentum  it  is  hurled  with  unerring  aim  at  the  object  of 
pursuit,  and  either  strikes  the  victim  dead,  or  coils  in- 
extricably about  him  and  roots  him  to  the  spot,  a  helpless 
mark  for  the  hunter's  knife. 

This  tribe  numbered  about  one  thousand ;  the  chief  is  the 
acknowledged  head  of  the  people.  Whether  his  power  was 
hereditary  or  elective,  I  could  not  learn ;  but  incline  to  the 
belief  that  it  was  hereditary,  as  it  appeared  to  be,  in  his 
theory  at  least,  absolute.  In  all  questions  of  importance 
his  decision  is  final ;  yet  his  subjects  take  considerable 
liberty  with  his  opinions,  sometimes  oppose  his  counsels, 
and  even  question  his  authority.  On  the  appearance  of 
such  democratic  symptoms,  he  sometimes  finds  it  necessary 
to  assert  his  sovereignty  with  spirit,  and  brandishes  his 
cutlass  smartly  before  their  eyes. 

The  habits  of  the  people  are  not  only  filthy,  but  indolent 
to  the  last  degree ;  exertion  of  body  or  mind  is  their 
greatest  dread.  They  never  go  on  a  hunting  expedition 
till  there  is  nothing  more  to  eat,  nor  even  then  till  they 
feel  the  spur  of  extreme  hunger.  It  sometimes  happens 
that  at  such  a  crisis  a  storm  comes  on,  which  shuts  them 
in;  and  it  is  no  un frequent  occurrence  for  them,  under 
such  circumstances,  to  pass  two  or  three  days  without 
tasting  food.  They  learn  nothing  by  experience;  the 
same  childish  indolence  and  recklessness,  followed  by  the 
same  painful  consequences,  are  continually  recurring. 


60  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

Though  their  great  size  at  first  sight  was  fitted  to  inspiic 
terror,  it  required  no  very  long  observation  to  discover 
that  they  were  deficient  in  natural  courage.  This,  in  fact, 
might  be  inferred  at  once,  from '  their  habitual  deceit, 
treachery  and  artifice,  which  are  the  defences  of  the  weak 
and  timorous,  rather  than  the  weapons  of  strong  and  daring 
natures.  They  always  select  the  night  to  inflict  injuries; 
never  meet  an  enemy  in  open  combat  whom  they  can  stab 
from  behind,  or  despatch  in  the  dark ;  and,  when  obliged  to 
attack  by  day,  always  do  so  in  large  numbers.  This  defect 
of  courage  is  increased  by  their  superstition ;  they  have 
great  faith  in  charms,  signs  and  omens,  a  weakness  which  I 
anticipated  might  exert  great  influence  on  my  destiny  in 
important  conjunctures.  Could  I  by  any  means  so  master 
their  secret  as  to  possess  myself  of  its  mystic  power,  it 
might  prove  an  effective  aid  to  my  plans  of  self-defence,  or 
of  escape.  Should  it,  on  the  other  hand,  be  turned  by  any 
accidental  causes  against  me,  its  impulse  might  prove  irre- 
sistible by  power  or  contrivance.  There  was  no  appearance 
of  idolatrous  worship  among  them,  nor  could  I  observe  any 
allusion  to  a  Supreme  Being,  or  to  any  superior  powers 
having  personal  attributes;  and,  except  a  single  ceremony, 
of  which  more  hereafter,  the  nature  of  which  was  and  is 
still  inexplicable,  there  was  nothing  that  suggested  to  my 
mind  the  idea  of  religious  worship.  Whether  they  are 
cannibals  or  not,  has  been  a  matter  of  some  dispute.  So 
far  as  I  know,  they  have  been,  heretofore,  only  casually 
observed  on  the  beach  by  voyagers,  or  vaguely  reported  of 
by  the  people  of  adjoining  countries  and  neighboring  settle- 
ments; neither  of  which  is  a  sufficiently  reliable  source  of 
information.  My  own  personal  advantages  on  this  head 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  61 

were  greater;  but  I  am  obliged,  after  all,  to  leave  the 
question  about  where  I  found  it,  so  far  as  certain  con- 
clusions are  concerned.  Yet  some  circumstances  occurred, 
or  were  related  to  me,  that  incline  my  mind  strongly  to 
the  belief  that  such  horrible  practices  are  not  unjustly 
ascribed  to  them.  Of  the  soundness  of  my  conclusions 
those  who  follow  the  course  of  the  narrative  will  have  the 
opportunity  of  judging  for  themselves ;  if  such  had  been 
my  persuasion  at  the  beginning,  it  may  be  readily  imagined 
what  effect  this  last  hazard  would  have  had  upon  my 
feelings,  in  contemplating  the  possibilities  of  the  future. 
Happily  a  convenient  scepticism  on  this  point  preserved 
me  from  this  dark  apprehension. 

i  came  among  these  people  not,  certainly,  with  the  best 
preparation  in  my  previous  habits  and  associations  to  en- 
dure either  the  climate  of  the  country  or  the  hardships  of 
captivity.  I  went  on  shore  in  my  usual  ship's  dress;  thick 
frock  coat,  trousers,  and  shoes,  and  glazed  cap.  My  under- 
garments were  woollen;  though  an  important  item,  as 
before  related,  was  made  way  with  in  fruitlessly  signalling 
vessels  in  the  straits.  But  to  live  without  any  change  of 
dress,  to  sleep  without  any  additional  covering,  protected 
from  the  cold  ground  only  by  a  fragment  of  guanaco-hide, 
and  the  other  discomforts  and  exposures  of  life  among 
savages,  made,  altogether,  a  harsh  contrast  to  the  comforts 
of  our  good  schooner.  To  these,  however,  I  gradually 
became  inured,  till  I  was  able  to  meet  cold  and  wet  and 
storm  with  as  stoical  indifference  as  my  dark  companions, 
who  had  known  no  other  lot  from  infancy. 

Of  the  character  of  the  natives  I  had  little  previous 
knowledge;  and  that  little  was  not  adapted  to  stimulate 
6 


62  THE    CAPTIYE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

curiosity,  or  prompt  the  least  anxiety  for  more  irtin.ute 
acquaintance.  It  was  derived  mainly  from  whalars,  in 
whom  it  seemed  to  have  produced  much  the  same  degree  of 
contentment,  —  a  feeling  that  ignorance  is  bliss.  Indeed, 
the  greatest  caution  has  always  been  employed  by  voyagers 
in  regard  to  landing  on  these  shores;  many  experienced 
seamen  cannot  be  persuaded  to  land  at  all ;  trade  with  the 
natives  is  always  carried  <5n  in  boats  off  shore,  frequently 
with  loaded  fire-arms  constantly  levelled,  in  readiness  for 
action  in  case  of  emergency.  But  here  I  was,  put  forcibly 
to  the  study  of  their  character  in  the  school  of  dame  Ex- 
perience, and  can  testify  to  the  truth  of  the  saying  that 
she  charges  roundly  for  tuition.  Let  the  reader  give  mo 
credit  for  the  cheapness  with  which  I  put  him  in  possession 
of  what  knowledge  was  purchased  at  so  exorbitant  a  price 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  63 


CHAPTER    III. 

Hard  journey  —  Encampment  —  Division  of  the  tribe  —  My  new  guardian 

—  Story  of  the  capture  of  a  British  vessel  —  Reunion  —  Gambling  — 
Culinary  arts  —  Hunting  —  Symptoms  of  danger  —  Mutual  deceptions 

—  Tough  yarns  —  The  fatal  ring  — An  elective  oration  —  Indecision  of 
the  Indians. 

THE  reader  left  me  just  rising  from  a  half-stupor  into 
which  a  double  disappointment*had  thrown  me,  feverish 
with  the  excitement  of  new  purposes  and  resolutions.  The 
first  aim  was  for  some  fresh  water,  to  allay  a  burning 
thirst.  After  a  long  and  unsuccessful  search,  I  went  de- 
liberately to  the  beach  and  took  a  deep  draught  of  the 
briny  waves.  Expecting  that  the  chief  would  shortly 
return  for  me  with  a  train  of  his  followers,  it  occurred  to 
me  that  I  might  secrete  myself,  though  there  was  nothing 
certain  to  be  gained  by  it,  if  I  were  successful,  of  which  the 
probability  was  not  great.  With  this  object  in  view,  I 
walked  along  close  on  the  water's  edge,  that  my  footprints 
might  be  obliterated  by  the  waves.  After  proceeding  in 
this  way  for  some  distance,  I  left  the  shore,  and  started 
towards  the  interior,  in  quest  of  a  place  where  I  might  dig 
a  hole  in  the  earth  and  cover  myself  with  grass  and  bushes. 
I  had  gone  but  a  little  way  inland,  when,  on  ascending  a 
slight  eminence,  whom  should  I  meet,  faca  to  face,  but  the 


C4  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

^ 

old  chief  and  another  of  my  tormentors !  So  the  scheme 
cam  3  to  nothing ;  but  after  others  more  feasible  had  so 
dolefully  miscarried,  it  was  not  in  human  nature  to  lay 
this  disappointment  very  deeply  ~  to  heart.  I  made  as 
though  I  was  glad  to  see  the  old  fellow,  though,  could  I 
then  have  had  my  will  of  the  savages,  they  would  have 
been  safely  anchored  in  the  middle  of  the  straits.  I  told 
him  (Heaven  forgive  me !)  I  was  looking  for  them.  The 
chief  responded  to  my  greeting  only  by  ordering  me  to 
mount  his  horse.  1  requested  leave  to  stay  a  little  longer, 
and  was  refused.  I  again  requested  to  be  taken  to  Port 
Famine  ;  —  no,  I  should  be  taken  to  "Holland." 

I  mounted  behind  him,  and  we  travelled  all  day  in  the 
direction  of  Cape  Virgin.  For  two  days  and  nights  I  had 
eaten  nothing,  and  drunk  nothing  but  sea-water,  and,  in 
fact,  had  taken  very  little  food  for  three  days.  We  ar- 
rived about  dark  at  an  eminence  commanding  a  view  of 
their  new  squatting  ground.  Here  we  halted  to  take  a 
short  survey  of  the  encampment.  To  them,  doubtless,  the 
prospect  was  beautiful ;  to  me  it  was  heart-sickening,  but  I 
strove  to  keep  up  cheerful  appearances.  Down  in  a  valley 
or  deep  marshy  hollow,  covered  with  tall  gi^ss  or  rushes, 
an  almost  innumerable,  drove  of  horses  were  seen  grazing  ; 
and  beyond,  at  a  short  distance,  the  surface  was  thickly 
dotted  with  huts,  erected,  or  in  process  of  erection,  by 
female  architects.  Children,  in  swarms  like  summer  flies, 
and  with  no  more  artificial  covering  than  those  insects, 
were  capering  and  shouting  in  high  glee.  At  length  we 
descended  to  the  rude  village;  after  tacking  about,  first  to 
the  right  and  then  to  the  left,  like  a  ship  against  a  head 
wind,  we  came  gallantly  into  town,  and  drew  ip  at  the 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  65 

chief's  lodge.  I  was  glad  to  dismount,  sore  with  bestriding 
the  skeleton  of  a  horse. 

Here  I  again  took  the  liberty  of  proposing  a  trip  to 
Port  Famine,  offering  to^  go  alone,  if  they  would  not  go 
with  me.  The  chief  told  me,  with  emphasis,  to  say  no 
more  about  it.  He  would  take  me  to  "Holland,"  and 
there  get  rum  and  tobacco.  "  Only  get  me  there,"  I  said 
to  myself,  "  and  much  good  may  your  rum  and  tobacco  do 
your  old  carcass  !  " 

On  the  third  day  of  our  encampment  here  the  tribe  was 
divided,  and  I  was  sent  off  with  one  of  the  chief's  lieu- 
tenants. A  more  blood-thirsty  rascal  could  not  be  found 
in  the  tribe.  This  step  was  probably  taken  by  the  chief  to 
get  rid  of  my  importunities  to  visit  Port  Famine,  the 
frequent  renewal  of  which  had  evidently  worried  him.  My 
new  guardian  regaled  my  ears,  from  time  to  time,  with 
stories  of  his  murderous  exploits,  most  likely  in  order  to 
instil  into  me  a  wholesome  dread  of  his  power,  and  a 
submissive  temper  under  his  authority.  The  details  of  his 
bloody  yarns  are  too  shocking  to  repeat.  One  story,  on 
which  he  seemed  to  dwell  with  peculiar  satisfaction,  as  it 
was  confirmed  by  more  reliable  authority  afterwards,  I  will 
here  relate,  with  such  other  particulars  as  I  gained  by 
subsequent  information. 

About  two  years  before,  the  British  brig  Avon  was  in 
the  Santa  Cruz  river.  Captain  Eaton,  her  commander, 
went  on  shore  with  his  men,  and  bought  some  horses  of  the 
Indians,  which  he  paid  for  in  rum,  tobacco  and  trinkets. 
After  receiving  their  pay,  they  played  the  same  trick  as 
with  me,  —  refused  to  deliver  the  horses.  The  captain  was 
about  getting  under  weigh,  when  the  Indians,  perceiving 
6* 


66  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

his  intention  to  leave  'hem,  went  down  to  the  shore  op- 
posite the  vessel,  and  beckoned  him  to  come  on  shore, 
signifying  that  they  would  give  np  the  horses,  as  agreed, 
The  boat  was  sent  ashore,  and  six  or  eight  Indians  returned 
in  it  to  the  brig.  They  surrounded  the  captain  on  the 
quarter-deck,  and  told  him  the  horses  were  coming.  He 
stepped  to  the  rail  with  his  glass,  to  observe  motions .  on 
shore;  while  thus  engaged,  the  savages  came  up  behind, 
drew  out  their  long  knives,  and  stabbed  him  to  the  heart. 
He  sunk  lifeless  on  the  rail,  and  fell  upon  the  deck. 
Seizing  him  by  the  hair,  and  raising  him  partly  on  their 
knees,  they  cut  his  throat,  and  stabbed  him  again  and 
again,  to  make  the  work  of  death  sure.  They  then  rushed 
upon  the  mate  and  stabbed  him,  but  not  mortally ;  he 
threw  himself  exhausted  down  the  hatchway,  and  had  just 
strength  enough  to  secrete  himself  among  the  cargo.  The 
boy  was  dealt  with  in  the  same  manner  as  the  captain,  and 
one  or  two  sailors,  being  wounded,  succeeded,  like  the 
mate,  in  getting  below  deck  and  secreting  themselves. 
The  remainder  of  the  crew  were  fortunately  off  in  a  boat  at 
this  time,  and  escaped  the  massacre.  The  savages  ate  and 
drank  on  board,  and  then  plundered  the  brig  of  such 
articles  as  suited  their  fancy.  Mr.  Douglass,  of  "  Holland," 
being  on  board  the  brig,  was  not  murdered,  but  carried  on 
shore  and  detained.  A  gentleman  named  Simms  after- 
wards endeavored  to  effect  the  release  of  Mr.  Douglass. 
He  gave  them  all  that  they  demanded  as  ransom,  and  was 
then  himself  detained  to  keep  his  friend  company.  A 
third  embassy  was  undertaken  by  Mr.  John  Hall,  of  whom 
the  reader  will  learn  more  hereafter.  He  paid  a  large 
ransom  for  his  t\vo  friends,  and  was  then  served  as  they 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  67 

had  been.  He  succeeded  in  effecting  his  escape  the  next 
day ;  but  Douglass  and  Simms  were  carried  off,  murdered, 
and,  it  is  supposed,  —  I  believe  with  good  reason,  —  that 
their  bodies  were  eaten.  The  Avon,  after  being  plundered, 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  remainder  of  the  crew,  and  sailed 
for  Montevideo. 

I  travelled  with  this  ruffian  about  ten  days.  He  was  a 
hard  master,  though  I  cannot  charge  him  with  personal  ill- 
treatment  that  amounted  to  cruelty.  Our  life  was  monot- 
onous enough.  We  slept  a  good  share  of  the  time  when 
we  rested,  drank  pure  water  when  we  could  get  it,  and  ate 
what  fell  in  our  way  ;  though  the  reader  may  be  assured 
that  we  saw  some  hungry  days.  At  the  expiration  of  ten 
lays,  the  tribe  was  reunited  at  a  place  agreed  upon.  Here 
we  continued  several  days,  the  natives  occupied  exclusively 
with  gambling,  which  was  alike  their  daily  labor  and 
recreation.  When  the  demands  of  hunger  became  too 
imperative  to  be  longer  postponed,  they  would  go  out  and 
hunt,  after  which  they  resumed  their  games. 

Gambling  is  a  vice  to  which  they  are  greatly  addicted, 
and  they  pursue  it  with  a  perseverance  and  ardor  worthy 
of  amateurs  in  more  civilized  communities.  The  imple- 
ments used  are  bits  of  guanaco-skin,  about  the  size  of 
common  playing-cards,  on  which  are  rudely  depicted  dogs 
and  a  variety  of  other  beasts,  with  divers  mystic  marks  and 
scrawls,  done  with  a  stick  in  a  pigment  composed- of  clay, 
blood  and  grease.  Unlike  their  compeers  in  more  en- 
lightened circles,  they  put  down- stakes  on  only  one  side, 
for  which  the  opposite  players  contend.  In  this  way  they 
rid  themselves  of  their  saddles,  bridles,  knives,  and  what 
eyer  other  portable  ai tides  they  may  have  to  hazard. 


68  1HE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

Nay,  I  have  seen  them  inflamed  to  such  a  passion  as  to 
take  the  mantles  from  their  women's  shoulders,  telling 
them  tD  protect  themselves  from  the  cold  as  they  could. 

Bat  where  was  "  Holland,"  all  this  time  ?  They  told 
me  at  first  that  we  should  be  only  four  days  reaching 
it,  and  already  more  than  ten  had  passed.  On  inquiry, 
they  said  that  the  journey  would  be  completed  in  six 
days ;  on  we  went,  for  sixteen  days  more,  with  the  same 
dull  routine,  the  Indians  assigning  seven  or  eight  days 
as  the  miDimum  time.  The  place  seemed  to  be  all  the 
while  receding.  I  had  long  since  become  aware  that  there 
was  no  truth  in  them ;  but  persisted  in  questioning  them, 
to  call  forth  fresh  lies,  which  they  uttered  with  marvellous 
fluency,  as  if  it  were  vastly  easier  than  speaking  the 
truth. 

After  the  reunion  of  the  tribe,  I  implored  the  old  chief 
'.o  take  me  back  to  his  lodge,  and  to  his  especial  care ;  to 
, which  he  consented,  much  to  my  satisfaction.  With  him 
I  felt  a  kind  of  security  unknown  elsewhere ;  under  God, 
I  relied  alone  on  his  protection.  He  alone  of  the  tribe  had 
the  power  to  defend  me,  and  I  spared  no  pains  to  secure  his 
good-will.  To  this  end,  I  made  him  large  promises  of  such 
things  as  I  thought  would  arouse  his  cupidity,  or  stim- 
ulate his  appetites,  as  well  as  an  abundance  of  ornaments 
for  his  wiv3S  and  children,  if  he  would  only  take  me  to 
some  place  inhabited  by  white  people.  This  policy  was 
extended  to  his  household ;  disagreeable  as  the  task  was, 
I  forced  myself  to  caress  his  dirty  children,  and  to  tell 
them  what  pretty  things  I  intended  to  give  them.  By 
these,  and  such-like  demonstration^  I  flattered  myself 
it  might  be  possible  to  keep  OR  peaceable  terms  with 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

old  Parosn  ver   and  enlist  his  autlnrity  for  me,  if  circuni 
stances  she  aid  compel  me  to  appeal  to  it. 

The  reunited  tribe  remained  in  3amp  three  or  four  days 
dividing  their  time  between  gambling  and  hunting.  Wher- 
I  accompanied  the  hunters,  as  I  sometimes  did,  I  was  sure 
to  get  something  to  eat  towards  night,  as  they  invariably 
kindled  a  fire  and  cooked  part  of  the  game  on  the  spot 
where  it  was  killed.  Their  method  of  preparing  all  meats 
was  essentially  the  same  as  has  been  described ;  tossing 
large  pieces  into  the  fire,  or  suspending  them  over  it, 
till  they  were  somewhat  smoked  and  dried,  and  then  de- 
vouring them,  without  salt,  or  any  other  condiment  but 
the  sauce  of  hunger.  Cooking  the  ostrich,  however,  forms 
an  exception :  the  feathers  are  plucked  out,  the  bones 
dissected  and  removed ;  hot  stones  are  placed  within  the 
body,  the  skin  is  tightly  sewed  together,  and  the  whole  is 
partially  roasted  on  the  embers.  The  lacings  are  then 
cut,  and  the  meat  is  served  up  ;  it  has  an  excellent  flavor, 
far  surpassing  that  of  the  domestic  turkey.  The  bird  is 
covered  with  a  layer  of  fat,  half  an  inch  thick,  which  is 
melted,  and  collects  in  the  body,  forming  a  condiment 
which  is  relished  as  the  greatest  luxury  of  Patagonian 
living.  If  any  fragments  of  the  repast  remain,  .they  are 
slung  to  the  backs  of  the  saddles,  and  so  carried  home, 
dangling  at  the  horses'  sides,  till  they  are  so  begrimed 
with  dust  as  to  defy  all  conjecture  as  to  their  quality  or 
origin.  These  choice  morsels  are  proffered  to  the  home 
department,  are  received  with  smiles  of  gratitude,  and 
devoured  with  a  gust  sharpened  by  long  abstinence.  It 
was  noticeable  that  the  plumage  of  tie  ostrich,  though 
beautiful,  was  not  at  all  valued  by  the  Indians;  large 


70  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

quantities  of  th  3  feathers  are  blown  all  over  the  country, 
without  attracting  the  least  regard,  while  men  and  women 
disfigure  themselves  with  paint,  and  load  their  persons 
with  the  cheapest  of  all  trumpery,  brass  and  copper  and 
beads,  picked  up  from  traders,  or  stolen. 

The  hunting  of  the  guanaco  is  not  only  their  chief 
reliance  for  food,  but  a  spirited  amusement,  conducted 
after  a  fashion  peculiar  alike  to  hunters  and  hunted.  Pat- 
agonia, as  before  mentioned,  has  no  trees,  but  is  covered 
nere  and  there,  in  patches,  with  a  kind  of  under-brush  of 
scrub  growth,  and  the  plains  extend  back  for  hundreds  of 
miles  from  the  Atlantic  shore,  like  a  vast  rolling  prairie. 
This  affords  a  clear  and  excellent  hunting-ground,  with 
nothing  to  conceal  the  game,  or  hinder  the  pursuer,  except 
now  and  then  a  clump  of  low  bushes,  or  the  tall  grass  of 
the  marshes.  Two  to  four  hundred  Indians  on  horseback, 
bare-headed,  and  with  thqir  skin  mantles  about  them,  and 
each  having  the  bolas  and  his  long  knife  tucked  beneath 
his  belt,  the  whole  followed  by  an  innumerable  pack  of 
dogs  of  every  kind,  down  to  curs  of  low  degree,  make  up 
a  hunting  party  ;  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  their  gigantic 
forms,  diminished  by  the  distance,  may  be  seen  projected 
on  the .  horizon,  their  long  hair  streaming  in  the  wind. 
Presently  a  thickness  is  perceived  in  the  air,  and  a  cloud 
of  dust  arises,  —  a  sure  indication  that  a  herd  of  guanacos 
has  been  beaten  up,  and  is  now  approaching.  All  eyes 
are  fixed  intently  on  the  cloud;  it  soon  appears  as  if 
several  acres  of  eartfc  were  alive,  and  in  rapid  motion. 
There  is  a  herd  of  from  five  hundred  to  a  thousand  of  these 
animals,  infuriated,  rushing  forward  at  their  utmost  speed; 
whatever  di  ection  they  may  chance  to  take,  they  follow 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  71 

in  a  straight  line ;  and,  as  scon  as  their  course  is  ascertained, 
the  Indians  may  be  seen  running  their  horses  at  break-neck 
pace  to  plant  themselves  directly  in  the  ccurse  of  the  living 
tide.  As  the  game  approach,  the  hunter  puts  spurs  to  his 
horse  and  rushes  across  their  track.  When  within  twenty 
or  thirty  yards,  he  jerks  the  bolas  from  his  girdle,  and,  whirl- 
ing it  violently  above  his  head,  lets  fly.  The  weapon  usu- 
ally strikes  the  head  or  neck  of  the  animal,  and  winds 
itself  about  his  fore-legs,  bringing  him  to  the  ground.  The 
hunter  dismounts,  cuts  the  victim's  throat,  remounts,  and  is 
again  in  pursuit.  The  whizzing  missile,  unerring  in  its  aim, 
brings  down  another  and  another,  till  the  party  are  satis- 
fied with  their  chase  and  their  prey.  The  dogs  fall  upon 
the  poor  animals,  when  helplessly  entangled  by  the  bolas, 
and  often  cruelly  mangle  them  before  the  hunter  has  time 
to  despatch  them.  Seldom  does  any  one  miss  the  game  he 
marks.  It  is  the  height  of  manly  ambition  among  them, 
the  last  result  of  their  training,  to  excel  in  the  chase. 

The  sport  being  over,  then  comes  the  dressing  of  the 
meat.  The  body  is  split  open,  the  entrails  removed,  the 
heart  and  large  veins  opened,  to  permit  the  blood  to  flow 
into  the  cavity.  The  Indians  scoop  up  with  their  hands 
and  eagerly  drink  the  blood.  When  their  thirst  is  satis- 
fied, the  remainder  is  poured  into  certain  of  the  intestines 
selected  for  the  purpose,  to  become  (to  their  accommodating 
tastes)  a  luxury  as  highly  prized  as  any  surnamed  of  Bo- 
logna. The  ribs  are  disjointed  from  the  back-bone,  and, 
with  the  head,  discarded  as  worthless.  The  body  is  quar- 
tered, cutting  through  the  skin ;  the  quarters,  tied  together 
in  pairs,  are  thrown  across  the  horses'  backs,  and  conveyed 
to  the  camp.  Arrived  at  their  wigwams,  the  chivalrous 


72  THE   CAPTITE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

hunters  never  unlade  their  beasts,  but  lean  upon  the  horses' 
necks  till  their  wives  come  out  and  relieve  them  of  the 
spoil.  They  then  dismount,  unsaddle  their  horses,  and  turn 
them  loose. 

Whilst  remaining  at  our  present  encampment,  strong  in- 
dications of  dissatisfaction  were  apparent,  which  manifestly 
had  reference  to  me.  There  was  a  large  party  that  had 
always  entertained  hostile  feelings  towards  me  ;  and  I  now 
found  it  necessary  to  exert  myself  to  the  utmost  to  quell 
their  discontent,  by  making  large  promises  of  presents  to 
men,  women  and  children,  "  due  and  payable  "  on  arrival  at 
some  white  settlement ;  also,  by  humoring  their  caprices, 
and  flattering  their  vanity  with  the  most  honeyed  words 
at  my  command.  The  reader,  I  hope,  will  not  harshly 
judge  of  the  deceptions  which  are  here  and  elsewhere 
avowed  in  this  narrative.  I  was  placed  in  circumstances 
which,  it  seemed  to  me,  made  this  a  legitimate  and  necessary 
mode  of  self-defence.  It  was  plain  that  my  only  way 
of  escape  would  be  by  some  negotiation  for  ransom,  and  the 
Indians  had  conceived  expectations  of  very  large  profit  to 
be  made  out  of  me.  They  were  told,  when  we  landed,  that  I 
was  the  captain  of  the  ship,  —  an  unfortunate  error,  but 
one  that  I  could  not  repair.  I  was  naturally  looked  upon 
as  so  much  the  more  valuable  hostage.  My  only  resource 
was  to  act  in  character  :  to  magnify  my  own  importance,  to 
increase  their  expectations,  whenever  I  found  myself  sink- 
ing in  the  scale  of  their  favor,  —  to  make  them  feel,  in  snort, 
that  they  had  an  immense  interest  in  preserving  my  life, 
and  getting  me  to  "  Holland,"  or  some  other  white  settle- 
ment, with  the  most  convenient  speed.  And  if  some  of 
the  fictions  appear  gross,  it  is  enough  to  say  that  they 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAG   NIA.  73 

were  such  as  seemed,  at  the  time,  to  be  adapted  to  t%he 
grossness  of  their  apprehensions  and  desires,  and  to  the  most 
sure  accomplishment  of  the  purpose  in  view. 

Yet,  so  false-hearted  and  treacherous  were  they,  that 
one  could  never  be  for  a  moment  certain  what  impres- 
sion was  made.  'Liars  in  grain  themselves,  it  was  only 
natural  for  them  to  distrust  every  one  else.  When- 
ever I  spoke,  and  especially  when  making  promises,  the  old 
chief  would  look  me  steadily  in  the  eye,  as  though  pierc- 
ing my  inmost  thoughts.  But,  in  process  of  time,  I  so 
schooled  myself  to  the  exercise,  that  I  could  return  his 
look  and  tell  the  toughest  stories  without  blinking.  Some 
of  them  were  to  the  full  as  credible  as  those  of  Mun- 
chausen.  It  was  constantly  necessary  to  put  memory  and 
imagination  to  the  rack,  to  call  forth  something  new  and 
astonishing  wherewith  to  divert  their  fancy,  and  preoccupy 
their  minds  from  meditating  mischief  against  me,  of  which 
I  had  continual  reason  to  be  afraid.  Secure  against  any  de- 
tection of  the  plagiarism,  I  drew  largely  from  the  adventures 
of  Sinbad  the  Sailor^  the  marvels  of  the  Arabian  Nights, 
and  the  cunning  devices  of  Gil  Bias,  the  materials  of  which 
served,  when  duly  mixed  with  my  own  veritable  experience, 
to  excite  their  curiosity,  if  not  to  awaken  awe  and  super- 
stitious reverence.  They  would  sit  around  me  for  hours, 
as  eager  as  so  many  children,  their  eyes  and  ears  all  intent, 
while  in  broken  Spanish,  mixed  with  a  few  Indian  phrases 
that  had  been  grafted  into  my  speech  through  the  ear,  aided 
by  abundant  gesticulations,  that  shadowed  forth  and  illus- 
trated whatever  was  obscure  in  expression,  I  spun  yarns 
of  no  common  length,  strength  and  elasticity.  Sometimes,  in 
response  to  a  general  call  from  the  company,  the  old  chief 
7 


74  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

at  the  end  of  some  marvellous  tale,  would  con  mand  me  to 
tell  it  again.  This  was  no  easy  task,  considei  ing  the  freaks 
which  my  imagination  usually  played  without  restraint,  in 
the  progress  of  the  narrative.  In  no  long  time,  however,  I 
learned  to  imitate  the  prudence  of  boys  who  turn  down 

• 

the  leaves  of  their  books,  or  of  Indians  who  break  down 
the  shrubs  and  twigs  along  a  new  path,  by  taking  special 
note  of  my  deviations, — a  sort  of  mental  dog's-ear,  or 
way -mark,  interposed  at  the  point  of  departure.  It  -was  not 
difficult  to  retrace  the  way  at  their  bidding,  and  give 
them  the  whole  journey,  to  its  minutest  turnings. 

The  excitement  and  dissatisfaction  which  I  had  remarked 
and  dreaded  appeared  to  have  died  away,  when  one  night 
I  had  startling  evidence  that  it  was  still  active.  At  the 
usual  hour  of  rest,  as  I  was  expecting  every  moment  to  be 
ordered,  like  a  dog,  to  my  cold  corner  of  the  lodge,  a  gigan- 
tic, ill-favored  fellow  made  his  appearance,  and  exchanged, 
in  an  under  tone,  a  few  words  with  the  chief.  Without 
comprehending  a  word  that  was  passing,  I  could  see,  by 
their  significant  glances,  that  the  colloquy  concerned  me, 
and  that  it  boded  me  no  good.  The  giant  soon  disappeared. 
The  chief  sat  a  moment  in  silence,  rose,  and  ordered  me  to 
follow  him.  To  the  question  where  he  was  taking  me,  no 
other  answer  was  vouchsafed  than  "  Gome  along !  "  We 
had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  when  I  observed  a 
group  of  Indians  sitting  in  a  circle  on  the  earth.  The  sight 
almost  froze  my  blood.  The  most  dismal  apprehensions 
seized  upon  me.  There  needed  no  wizard  to  tell  the  import 
of  the  scene.  The  fatal  ring,  so  much  to  be  dreaded  by 
those  who  are  cast  upon  the  tender  mercies  of  savages  was 
set  for  me.  The  suddenness  of  it  aggravated  the  blow  It 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  70 

almost  paralyzed  thought,  and  arrested  my  powers  of  mo- 
tion. The  catastrophe  of  the  tragedy,  I  thought,  is  at 
hand,  unless  arrested  by  the  interposition  of  a  higher  power. 
In  my  way  to  the  dreaded  spot  I  sent  up  a  silent  suppli- 
cation that  He  whose  eye  marked  all  my  footsteps,  and 
whose  power  was  a"ll-sufficient  for  my  protection  against 
utmost  peril,  would  keep  me  in  that  hour  of  my  "  extrem- 
ity," and  make  it,  according  to  |he  proverb,  His  "  oppor- 
tunity." 

Arrived  at  the  ring,  I  found  the  Indians  squatting  on 
the  ice  and  snow  awaiting  us,  with  their  cutlasses  and 
large  knives  tucked  under  their  blankets,  —  weapons  they 
never  carry  except  when  they  expect  to  use  them.  I  waa 
ordered  within,  and  seated  myself  as  near  as  possible  to 
the  chief.  They  presently  began  talking  in  rotation,  as  they 
sat,  in  their  own  tongue.  Their  words  were  mainly  unin- 
telligible ;  but  the  deadly  malice  that  flashed  from  the  eyes, 
kindled  in  the  features,  and  animated  the  gesticulations,  of 
some  of  them,  left  no  room  to  doubt  the  significance  of  their 
speech.  A  part  of  them  were  clamorous  against  my  life,  as 
they  had  constantly  been.  Others  appeared  to  be  irreso- 
lute, and  said  little ;  but,  so  far  as  could  be  discovered,  no 
voice  was  raised  in  my  favor.  The  chief  spoke  last,  — 
I  hung  upon  his  lips,  and  anxiously  scrutinized  his  face  and 
action.  I  gathered  that  he  was  in  favor  of  holding  on  a 
while  longer,  and  using  me  as  a  decoy,  to  lure  others  within 
their  power  ;  reminding  them  of  my  promises,  —  the  quan- 
tities of  rum  and  tobacco  they  were  to  get  from  me,  the 
trinkets  destined  for  women  and  children.  He  was  for  get- 
ting the  booty  ^before  cutting  the  matter  short  with  me*. 
His  remarks  evidently  had  great  weight  with  the  council, 


76  1HE    CAPTIVE    IH    .'ATAGONIA. 

and  ex  irted  a  soothing  effect  on  all  of  them.  At  this  point 
I  thought  it  a  meet  season  to  impress  upon  their  minds  that 
I  was  of  some  consequence  in  the  world,  and  asked  leave  to 
speak  for  myself,  which  was  granted.  Thereupon  1  launched 
forth  in  an  oration,  the  chief  acting  as  interpreter,  and 
retailing  it  to  the  circle  sentence  by  sentence  : 

"  Buenos  Senores  !  Me  mucho  grande  Americane  capi- 
tan,  mismo  commodant  mucho  mass,  mucha  barca,  mucha 
galeta,  muchos  soldados,  muchos  marinarios.  Me  tene 
mucho  mucho  big  guns,  bastante  poquito  mismo  bastante, 
cutlass,  pistols  mucho  bastante.  Vuestros  hombres  buenos 
per  me,  mi  marinarios,  mi  soldados,  buenos  per  vos.  Othro 
corso  usted  malo  rumpe  me,"  &c.  &c.  &c.  In  such  a  jum- 
ble of  Spanish,  English  and  Indian,  duly  set  off  with  gri- 
mace and  gesture,  I  gave  them  to  understand  that  they  were 
dealing  with  no  inferior  personage,  but  with  one  who  was  at 
home  as  good  as  the  president ;  one  having  at  command 
abundance  of  steamships  and  sailing  vessels  of  all  sorts, 
with  soldiers  and  mariners,  big  guns  and  little  guns,  pistols 
and  cutlasses*  That  if  they  were  good  to  me  they  would 
receive  good  from  me  and  mine  ;  but  that,  if  they  did  me 
any  harm,  men  would  come  from  North  America  in  num- 
bers as  incalculable  as  the  hairs  of  their  heads,  and  kill 
every  mother's  son  of  them.  Furthermore,  if  they  would 
take  me  to  some  white  settlement,  whether  American,  Eng- 
lish. French  or  Spanish,  I  would  order  the  white  people  to 
give  them  rum,  tobacco,  flour,  rice,  sugar  and  tea.  Of 
course  the  white  men  could  do  no  less  than  obey,  and  they 
would  thus  be  enabled  to  indulge  themselves  in  luxuries 
almost  without  limit. 

It  was  evident,  at  a  glance,  that  my  speech  was  seasonable, 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  77 

and  took  effect  in  the  right  quarter.  Their  eyes  stood  out 
with  wonder,  and  the  sternness  of  their  countenances  was 
relaxed.  They  acquiesced  in  the  proposal  to  postpone  final 
action  for  the  present,  and  see  what  could  be  made  out  of  me 
before  doing  their  worst.  In  a  few  days,  they  said,  they 
would  take  me  to  "  Holland ; "  but,  no  matter  what  time  was 
limited, that  "undiscovered country"  seemed  continually  fur- 
ther off,  —  "a  name"  without  any  "local  habitation."  Their 
conduct  in  this  was  determined,  as  I  was  afterwards  assured, 
by  the  fact  that  they  were  entirely  undecided  what  to  do 
with  me.  They  longed  for  the  good  things  I  had  told  them 
ef,  and  their  greedy  appetites  could  only  be  satisfied  by 
taking  me  to  a  white  settlement.  On  the  other  hand,  they 
were  painfully  suspicious  that  I  meant  to  give  them  the 
slip,  and  dreaded  the  result  of  bringing  me  into  the  vicinity 
of  any  settlement ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  my  grandilo- 
quent assumptions  and  lofty  threats  made  them  shrink  from 
the  thought  of  doing  me  serious  harm.  The  big  guns  and 
little  guns  greatly  disturbed  their  imaginations.  In  short, 
I  seemed  to  them  an  ugly  customer  —  bad  to  keep,  and  bad 
to  get  rid  of.  They  temporized,  therefore,  promised  and 
hesitated,  and  postponed,  and  promised  again.  There  was 
no  use  in  trying  to  hurry  their  movements.  So  I  gave  them 
line  upon  line,  seeking  every  opportunity  to  deepen  the 
troublesome  impression  that  they  assumed  a  mighty  respons- 
ibility when  they  made  me  a  prisoner,  and  that  their  wel- 
fare depended  greatly  on  the  issue. 
7* 


78  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER    IY. 

Corey  Inlet  —  A  nother  disappointment  —  A  hunting  frolic  with  an  UB» 
pleasant  termination  —  Moving  of  the  camp  —  Aimless  wanderings  — 
Alarm  —  A  marriage  treaty  and  an  unsuccessful  suitor  —  Laws  of  mar- 
riage —  Qualifications  of  a  husband  —  Feminine  quarrels  —  A  marriage 
in  high  life — Dressing  meat — Profaneness  —  Absence  of  religiouS 
ideas  —  Mysterious  ceremony  —  Reasons  for  abstaining  from  religious 
instruction  —  The  metals  —  State  of  the  arts  in  Patagonia  —  Tailoring 
—  Fashion. 

THE  next  move  of  the  tribe  brought  us  within  about  a 
mile  of  Corey  Inlet.  The  day  after  we  halted,  in  full  view 
of  the  south  Atlantic,  on  looking  out  upon  the  water,  two 
masts  were  plainly  descried,  evidently  those  of  some  vessel 
running  down  to  this  inlet.  On  going  up  an  elevation  com- 
manding a  better  view,  it  proved  to  be  a  topsail  schooner. 
She  had  undoubtedly  mistaken  this  false  cape  for  Cape 
Virgin,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  I  pointed 
out  the  vessel  to  the  Indians,  and  requested  them  to  take 
me  to  the  shore,  that  I  might,  if  possible,  communicate  with 
her  and  be  ransomed.  After  some  delay,  they  complied  ; 
but,  as  we  approached  the  beach,  she  was  seen  suddenly  to 
haul  off  the  shore  and  stand  down  the  coast,  having  proba- 
bly found  out  her  mistake.  We  made  all  possible  haste  to 
gain  the  beach  before  she  could  have  time  to  pass  out  of 
eight.  I  mounted  a  tall  cliff,  where  I  could  distinctly  see 


THE    CAPTIVE   IX    PATAGONIA.  79 

the  men  on  deck,  and,  standing  on  the  horse'^  back,  waved 
my  jacket,  and  made  every  possible  demonstration  to  attract 
their  notice.  All  in  vain.  The  little  vessel  sailed  steadily 
on,  as  if  in  mockery  of  my  hopes.  I  watched  her  receding 
figure  with  an  aching  heart,  till  she  vanished  from-  sight. 
Thoughts  of  home  and  its  familiar  circle,  of  lost  enjoyments, 
and  of  the  suffering  that  must  be  a  guest  there,  had  long 
tantalized  my  sleeping  and  embittered  my  waking  dreams. 
These  were  quickened  and  concentrated  in  a  burning  focus, 
by  the  light  of  such  a  vision  from  the  world  of  my  past 
existence,  only  to  inflict  the  keener  torture  upon  my  sensi- 
bilities. My  situation  became  more  intolerable  by  every 
fresh  disappointment.  It  was  almost  enough  to  drive  me 
mad.  Must  I,  then,  give  up  all  hope  of  rescue  ? 

A  few  minutes  passed,  and  the  tempest  of  feeling  passed 
with  them.  Reflection  convinced  me  that  the  indulgence 
of  such  feelings  was  not  only  useless,  but  actually  pernicious, 
as  tending  to  unfit  me  for  rational  and  successful  contriv- 
ance. My  condition,  truly,  was  dreadful;  so  much  the 
more  necessary  was  it  to  exercise  the  most  calm  and  patient 
and  self-possessed  prudence,  in  order  to  devise  and  execute 
any  purpose  of  escape.  Like  the  surgeon  who  looks  with 
steady  nerve  on  the  quivering  frame  subjected  to  his  knife, 
I  must  nerve  myself  to  look  the  gloomy  problem  of  my  lot, 
without  shrinking,  fully  in  the  face,  and  keep  my  emotions, 
in  all  circumstances,  strictly  under  the  control  of  the 
calculating  judgment;  a  maxim,  like  many  others,  much 
easier  uttered  now  than  to  be  thought  of  then,  and  far 
easier  asserted  than  exemplified  Fully  bent  on  effecting 
my  deliverance  in  some  way,  to  .he  discovery  of  which  all 
possible  ingenuity  v  as  to  be  directed,  my  resolutions  of 


80  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

self-control  were  heroic  enough.  But  to  fulfil  them,  —  to 
repress  and  disregard  all  those  sympathies  to  which  my 
whole  being  was  bound,  —  this  was  indeed  labor,  too  great, 
I  often  feared,  to  be  accomplished.  When  the  stress  of 
inward  conflict  oppressed  me,  I  would  spring  from  my 
crouching-place  in  the  lodge,  rush  into  the  open  air,  and 
seize  upon  every  object  that  could  in  any  degree  divert 
attention  and  divide  my  thoughts.  These  exertions,  with 
God's  blessing,  sufficed  to  restore,  in  some  tolerable  meas- 
ure, the  mental  equilibrium,  and  to  rescue  me  from  the 
dominion  of  feelings  the  unrestrained  action  of  which 
would  have  driven  me  to  madness. 

During  our  stay  of  three  or  four  days  at  this  encamp- 
ment, I  had  become  so  wearied  with  the  monotony  of  their 
idleness,  broken  only  by  their  desperate  gambling,  —  the 
only  thing,  besides  the  chase,  with  which  the  Indians  oc- 
cupied themselves,  —  that  for  variety's  sake,  to  divert  my 
often-desponding  moods,  and  to  kill  time,  which  hung 
heavily  on  my  hands,  I  concluded  to  go  out  on  a  hunting 
frolic.  Having  procured  a  horse  of  the  chief,  and  encased 
my  lower  extremities  in  a  pair  of  native  boots,  much 
warmer  than  the  ship  shoes  in  which  I  had  endured  the 
cold,  I  set  out  with  quite  a  party.  We  had  gone  six  or 
eight  miles,  when  I  stopped  for  a  short  time,  the  rest  of  the 
troop  riding  off  without  regarding  me.  On  remounting  my 
charger,  I  put  him  to  his  utmost  speed,  in  order  to  overtake 
them.  While  driving  on  at  a  furious  rate,  he  stumbled  and 
came  to  the  ground,  throwing  his  luckless  rider  over  his 
head  twenty  feet  or  more,  upon  the  hard,  frozen  ground. 
One  ankle  was  severely  sprained,  and  my  whole  body  more 
or  less  bruised.  So  severe,  indeed,  was  the  shock,  that  I 


THE     2APTJVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  81 

have  occasional  reminders  of  it  to  this  day.  No  time  was 
to  be  lost ;  and,  with  considerable  effort,  and  no  little  pain, 
I  succeeded  in  remounting.  The  swelling  of  my  foot  soon 
made  my  borrowed  boots  extremely  uncomfortable,  and  I 
wished  myself  safely  back  at  the  lodge ;  but,  at  whatever 
expense  of  suffering,  I  had  no  resource  but  to  follow  the 
hunters  till  such  time  as  they  should  see  fit  to  return. 
The  remembrance  of  that  day's  torment  will  not  soon  be 
lost.  We  arrived  at  the  camp  late  in  the  evening ;  and, 
having  been  unsuccessful  in  the  chase,  went  supperless  to 
bed.  On  crawling  into  the  hut  and  removing  my  boots,  a 
sad  sight  was  disclosed ;  but  there  was  no  present  remedy. 
Dragging  myself  wearily  into  my  corner,  I  had  just 
crouched  upon  the  skin,  which  had  served  for  a  saddle 
during  the  day  and  was  still  reeking  from  the  horse's  back, 
when  a  great  dog  came  along,  and  threw  his  whole  weight 
upon  the  lame  foot,  causing  me  to  scream  aloud  for  the 
pain.  I  drew  back  the  serviceable  foot,  and  gave  him  a 
kick  that  sent  him  through  the  fire  and  against  the  front 
of  the  lodge.  Sleep  kept  at  a  distance  till  near  morning, 
when  I  gained  a  brief  oblivion  of  suffering. 

Day  at  last  dawned,  and  with  the  morning's  light  came 
the  busy  note  of  preparation  for  removal.  Down  came  the 
tents ;  the  squaws  packing  up  the  furniture,  and  the  In- 
dians chasing  and  lassoing  their  horses.  The  noise  «ind 
confusion,  disagreeable  enough  under  any  circumstances, 
made  the  scene  no  inapt  representative  of  chaos,  from 
which  I  was  glad  to  be  delivered  on  the  most  expeditious 
terms  possible ;  and  I  was  easily  persuaded  to  try  my 
fortune  again  in  the  chase,  more  especially  as  we  had  no- 
thing for  breakfast.  No  words  can  do  mere  than  partial 


82  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

justice  to  one  of  these  moving  scenes.  Not  only  the  skin 
roofs  of  their  wigwams,  but  the  stakes  and  poles  which  con- 
stitute the  frames,  are  carried  along  with  them.  Their 
furniture  gives  them  little  trouble,  seldom  consisting  of 
more  than  the  skins  on  which  they  sleep,  an  ox-horn  tinder- 
;ox,  a  few  sticks  for  roasting  meat,  and  a  leathern  water- 
bucket.  Tents  and  furniture  are  all  packed  together  on 
their  horses'  backs.  The  pappooses  in  travelling  are  la&hed 
to  a  kind  of  wooden  sledge,  rounded  at  the  ends  like  sleigh- 
runners,  and  crossed  with  narrow  slats,  that  bind  the  parts 
strongly  together.  The  little  brats  are  bound  upon  these 
machines,  which  are  so  shaped  that  their  heads  and  feet  are 
much  below  the  general  level  of  their  bodies,  —  a  very  un- 
comfortable position  for  the  youngsters,  if  they  have  as 
much  sensibility  to  pain  as  other  children,  of  which  I 
incline  to  doubt,  as  they  are  inured  from  birth  to  almost 
every  species  of  hardship.  The  sledge,  with  its  living 
burden,  is  thrown  across  the  horse's  back,  and  made  fast  to 
the  load.  The  mother  mounts  to  the  top  of  the  pack, 
resting  her  feet  on  the  horse's  neck,  and  armed  with  a 
cudgel,  with  which  she  vigorously  belabors  the  beast,  right 
and  left.  The  pappooses,  not  liking  the  quarters  assigned 
to  them,  set  up  a  general  -squalling.  Mothers  and  maiden 
aunts  join  in  full  chorus,  drawling  out,  at  the  top  of  their 
voices,  "  Hori !  mutty,  mutty!  Horl!  mutty,  mutty!" 
without  the  least  change,  to  the  thousandth  repetition. 
All  these  arrangements  are  made  with  remarkable  celerity 
—  in  thirty  minutes  not  a  tent  is  left  standing,  but  the 
whole  tribe,  their  tenc  nen+s  and  chattels,  wives  and  brats, 
are  all  packed  upon  horses,  and  the  motley  cavalcade  moves 
off  like  an  army  of  beggars  on  horseback. 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA  85 

On  the  present  occasion  the  movement  was  delayed, 
while  we  rode  in  search  of  something  to  eat.  The  chase 
was  unsuccessful,  scarcely  enough  being  obtained  to  more 
than  sharpen  our  appetites  for  dinner.  The  scanty  meal 
being  over,  the  whole  company  began  their  journey,  which 
in  its  tortuous  windings  was  not  unlike  that  of  the 
Israelites  in  the  wilderness,  but  unlike  that  in  the  respect 
that  we  seemed  to  have  no  particular  destination  or  object, 
except  to  explore  new  hunting-grounds,  and  gratify  the 
capricious  restlessness  of  the  Indians.  One  very  desirable 
end  was  answered,  —  we  got  enough  to  eat,  as  we  were  suc- 
cessful in  killing  a  large  quantity  of  game.  The  Indians 
it  was  noticeable,  were  never  at  a  loss  to  find  their  camps 
So  familiar  did  they  seem  with  all  their  haunts  and  the 
general  shape  of  the  country,  that  though  the  surface  pre- 
sented to  my  eye  scarcely  any  distinguishable  way-marks, 
they  would  strike  off  from  any  point,  however  distant,  and 
go  with  unerring  aim  straight  to  their  tents.  In  returning 
laden  with  booty  to  our  new  homes,  I  was  surprised  to 
observe  no  indications  whatever  of  water  in  the  vicinity  , 
a  singular  departure,  at  first  sight,  from  their  invariable 
custom,  so  far  as  I  had  noticed.  Very  soon  the  squaws 
issued  from  their  huts,  each  with  her  leathern  bucket. 
Curiosity  prompted  me  to  follow  them  a  little  way,  when  a 
spring  was  discovered,  from  which  they  had  to  dip  the 
water  with  their  ox-horn  cups  till  the  buckets  were  filled. 

About  this  time,  a  new  phase  of  life  presented  itself,  to 
cast  light  on  an  important  item  of  the  social  economy 
established  in  Patagonia.  Looking  out  of  our  wigwam  one 
evening  just  at  dusk,  I  noticed  an  unusual  concourse  of 
Indians  about  two  hundred  yards  distant.  There*  were 


86  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

fifty  or  mpre,  headed  by  one  of  the  most  ruffianly  rascals 
in  the  tribe,  marching  in  the  direction  of  our  lodge.  I 
spoke  to  the  chief  about  it,  whereupon  he  went  imme- 
diately to  the  back  of  the  hut,  and  sat  down  on  his  little 
bed,  his  cutlass  hanging  beside  him  from  a  knot  of  one  of 
the  stakes.  This  he  took  down,  laid  it  across  his  knees, 
and  folded  his  arms.  Something,  I  saw,  was  wrong.  In 
anticipation  of  the  worst  that  might  befall  me,  I  had 
found,  a  short  time  before,  the  handle  of  an  old  knife 
among  the  chief's  trumpery,  and  also  an  odd  blade;  these 
I  had  put  together,  and  the  chief  permitted  me  to  carry  it 
about  my  person,  the  only  weapon  he  allowed  me.  I  now 
planted  myself  on  my  knees  beside  him,  and  prepared  to 
sell  my  life  as  dearly  as  possible,  should  the  mob  enter 
with  evil  designs  towards  me.  The  consciousness  that  I 
was  in  their  power,  and  was  sure  to  have  the  worst  of  any 
serious  quarrel,  made  it  my  study  to  keep  the  peace  with 
them  as  far  as  circumstances  would  admit ;  but  there  was 
a  limit  to  my  control  of  events,  a  very  narrow  limit, 
which  I  had  'Constant  reason  to  fear  would  be  overborne 
by  the  impetuous  hatred  of  my  enemies,  when  nothing 
would  be  left  but  desperate  resistance.  Such  a  crisis 
seemed  near,  when  the  chief  was  himself  reduced  to  a 
defensive  attitude,  and  was  indeed  besieged  in  his  own 
lodge. 

The  motley  throng  surrounded  the  hut,  their  numbers 
constantly  swelled  by  fresh  arrivals ;  some  were  squat 
upon  the  ground,  others  peeping  through  the  crevices. 
Presently  one  of  the  number  addressed  the  chief,  and  the 
two  conversed  for  some  tiufe  in  a  low  and  unintellig'ble, 
but  decided  and  emphatic  tone.  The  crowd  outside  ap- 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  87 

peared  to  be  a  good  deal  excited,  and  kept  up  a  continuous 
hum  of  rapid  conversation.  I  looked  and  listened,  ^ith 
mingled  curiosity  and  dread,  while  the  chief  repeated  the 
same  thing  over  and  over  again,  in  a  firm,  authoritative 
tone,  tinged  with  anger.  Unable  to  conjecture  what  was 
on  foot,  or  to  bear  any  longer  the  agony  of  suspense,  I 
patted  him  familiarly  on  his  naked  breast,  told  him  he  had 
"  a  good  heart,"  begged  that  he  would  not  suffer  the 
Indians  to  harm  me.  "  You  go  sleep,"  was  his  answer ; 
"  no  Indians  come  into  this  house  to-night."  I  inquired 
what  they  were  after,  but  no  answer  was  vouchsafed,  and 
he  resumed  his  mysterious  colloquy  with  the  outsiders. 
The  idea  of  sleeping  under  such  circumstances  was  out  of 
the  question  ;  I  was  wide  awake,  and  bent  on  keeping 
so,  —  sorely  bewildered  at  the  strange  goings  on,  and  not 
a  little  terrified,  but  holding  fast  by  my  sole  weapon  of 
defence,  and  waiting  a  favorable  opportunity  to  interpose 
another  inquiry.  The  chief  turned  his  head ;  and,  per- 
ceiving my  vigilance,  repeated  in  an  angry  tone  his  injunc- 
tion to  sleep.  This  was  a  drop  too  much ;  and,  clasping 
my  arms  about  his  dirty  neck,  patting  his  breast,  and  look- 
ing (with  as  confiding  an  air  as  I  could  assume)  into  his 
dull .  eyes,  I  begged  him  to  speak  to  me,  to  tell  me  what 
these  men  wanted.  "  Do  they  want  to  break  my  head  ?  " 

"  The  men  don't  want  to  hurt  you,"  he  said ;  "  Indian 
wants  a  girl  for  his  wife ;  poor  Indian,  very  poor,  got  no 
horses  nor  anything  else.  I  won't  give  him  the  woman." 

So  speedy  a  descent  from  the  height  of  my  fears  was  not 

satisfactory ;   it  was  impossible  to  credit  this  explanation 

of  such  a  formidable  scene.     I  apprehended  that  it  was  a 

pure  fiction,  extemporized  for  the  purpose  of  quieting  me ; 

8 


88  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

but,  as  he  seemed  more  communicative,  I  swallowei  my 
doubts,  and  questioned  him  further.  "  What  does  poor 
Indian  say  ?  " 

"  Says  he  '11  steal  plenty  horses  when  we  get  where 
they  are,  and  give  the  woman  plenty  of  grease.  Says  he 
is  a  good  hunter,  good  thief." 

These  high  titles  to  consideration  did  not  seem  to  be 
admitted  by  the  party  they  were  offered  to  conciliate ;  on 
the  contrary,  the  chief  pronounced  him  a  sleepy  mink-skin 
of  a  fellow,  —  no  thief  at  all ;  one  that  would  never  own  a 
horse  in  the  world.  This  opinion,  which  he  was  good 
enough  to  favor  me  with,  he  communicated  to  the  party 
chiefly  concerned,  telling  him  that  he  was  a  poor,  good- 
for-nothing  Indian,  he  should  not  have  the  woman,  and 
that  was  the  end  of  it.  After  a  little  more  jabber,  and 
abundance  of  wrangling,  the  mob  dispersed,  much  to  my 
relief.  Satisfied,  by  further  conversation  on  the  subject 
with  old  Parosilver,  whose  triumph  over  the  mutiny  had 
put  him  into  better  temper  than  usual,  that  the  affair  did 
not  imminently  concern  my  safety  or  welfare,  I  lay  down 
to  rest. 

In  answer  to  further  inquiries, — for  I  must  plead  guilty 
to  a  good  deal  of  curiosity  in  respect  of  the  poor  Indian 
and  his  blasted  hopes,  —  I  was  informed  that  without  the 
chief's  consent  no  marriage  was  permitted;  that,  in  his 
judgment,  no  Indian  who  was  not  an  accomplished  rogue,  — 
particularly  in  the  horse-stealing  line,  —  an  expert  hunter, 
able  to  provide  plenty  of  meat  and  grease,  was  fit  to  have 
a  wife  on  any  terms.  He  never  gave  his  consent  for 
such  lazy  ones  to  take  an  extra  rib ;  but,  he  very  con- 
siderately added,  all  the  difference  it  made  was  that  some 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  89 

one  else  had  to  support  the  squaw  till  her  suitor  proved 
himself  worthy,  and  acquired  sufficient  wealth  to  justify 
taking  her  to  his  wigwam ;  and,  if  he  cared  much  for  his 
coury,  he  would  not  be  long  in  earning  her ;  it  would  make 
him  a  first-rate  thief,  —  the  most  indispensable  title  to 
favor  in  the  tribe.  It  appeared  that  the  possession  of  two 
horses,  oue  for  himself  and  one  for  his  intended,  was  re- 
garded as  the  proper  outfit  in  a  matrimonial  adventure. 

The  women  are  somewhat  given  to  quarrelling  among 
themselves ;  and,  when  their  "  combativeness "  is  once 
active,  they  fight  like  tigers.  Jealousy  is  a  frequent  occa- 
sion. If  a  squaw  suspects  her  liege  lord  of  undue  familiarity 
with  a  rival,  she  darts  upon  the  fair  enchantress  with  the 
fury  of  a  wild  beast ;  then  ensues  such  a  pounding,  scratch- 
ing and  hair-pulling,  as  beggars  description.  The  gay 
deceiver,  if  taken  by  surprise,  slips  quietly  out,  and  stands 
at  a  safe  distance  to  watch  the  progress  of  the  combat, 
generally  chuckling  at  the  fun  with  great  complacency. 
A  crowd  gathers  round  to  cheer  on  the  rivals;  and  the 
rickety  wigwam,  under  the  effect  of  the  squall  within, 
creaks  and  shivers  like  a  ship  in  the  wind's  eye. 

While  the  contract  of  marriage  is  so  jealously  regarded 
by  the  chief  as  to  be  subject  to  a  veto  in  every  case  where 
a  proposed  match  appears  in  his  eyes  unsuitable,  the 
ceremony  is  literally  nothing  at  all.  Due  sanction  having 
been  given  by  the  supreme  authority,  the  bridegroom  takes 
home  his  bride  for  better  or  worse,  without  any  of  the 
festivity  which  graces  similar  occasions  elsewhere.  About 
this  time,  —  for,  as  I  had  no  means  of  journalizing  my  ex- 
perience, or  even  keeping  the  reckoning  of  weeks  and 
months,  it  is  quite  impossible  to  assign  lates,  —  a  mat- 


90  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

rimonial  transaction  took  place,  accompanied  by  unusual 
solemnities.  The  rank  of  one  party,  and  the  extraordinary 
accessories  of  the  occasion,  will  justify  a  particular  notice 
of  this  "  marriage  in  high  life." 

One  evening,  the  chief,  his  four  wives,  two  daughters, 
an  infant  granddaughter,  and  myself,  were  scattered  about 
the  lodge,  enveloped  in  a  smoke  of  unusual  strength  and 
density.  While  the  others  sat  around  as  unconcerned  as 
so  many  pieces  of  bacon,  I  lay  flat,  with  my  face  close  to 
the  ground,  and  my  head  covered  with  a  piece  of  guanaco- 
skin,  the  only  position  in  which  it  was  possible  to  gain 
any  relief  from  the  stifling  fumigation.  While  in  this 
attitude,  I  fancied  I  heard  the  tramp  of  many  feet  without, 
and  a  confused  muttering,  as  if  a  multitude  of  Indians 
were  talking  together.  Presently  a  hoarse  voice  sounded 
in  front,  evidently  aimed  at  the  ears  of  some  one  within-, 
to  which  the  chief  promptly  replied.  I  caught  a  few 
words,  —  enough  to  satisfy  me  that  I  was  not  the  subject  of 
their  colloquy,  but  that  there  was  a  lady  in  the  case,  —  and 
listened  curiously,  without  any  of  the  fright  which  grew 
out  of  the  previous  negotiations.  The  conversation  grew 
animated,  and  the  equanimity  of  his  high  mightiness  the 
chief  was  somewhat  disturbed.  I  cast  a  penetrating  glance 
into  the  smoke  at  the  female  members  of  our  household, 
to  discern,  if  possible,  whether  any  one  of  them  was 
specially  interested.  One  look  was  sufficient;  the  chief's 
daughter  (who,  by  the  way,  was  a  quasi  widow,  with  one 
hopeful  scion  springing  up  by  her  side)  sat  listening  to 
the  conversation,  with  anxiety  and  apprehension  visible  in 
every  feature.  Her  mother  sat  near  her,  her  chin  resting 
upon  her  hand,  vith  an  anxious  and  thoughtful  expression 


THE    CAPTIYE   IN    PATAGONIA.  91 

of  countenance.  The  invisible  speaker  without,  it  soon 
appeared,  was  an  unsuccessful  suitor  of  the  daughter,  and  had 
come  with  his  friends  to  press  his  claim.  He  urged  his  suit, 
if  nut  with  classic,  with  "  earnest  "  eloquence,  but  with  suc- 
cess ill  proportioned  to  his  efforts.  The  chief  told  him  he 
was  a  poor,  good-for-nothing  fellow,  had  no  horses,  and  was 
unfit  to  be  his  son-in-law,  or  any  one  else's.  The  outsider 
was  not  to  be  so  easily  put  off ;  he  pressed  his  suit  with 
fresh  energy,  affirming  that  his  deficiency  of  horses  was 
from  want  of  opportunity,  not  from  lack  of  will  or  ability 
to  appropriate  the  first  that  came  within  his  reach.  On  the 
contrary,  he  claimed  to  be  as  ingenious  and  accomplished  a 
thief  as  ever  swung  a  lasso  or  ran  off  a  horse,  and  a  mighty 
hunter  besides,  whose  wife  would  never  suffer  for  want  of 
grease.  The  inexorable  chief  hereat  got  considerably  ex- 
cited, told  him  he  was  a  poor  devil,  and  might  be  off  with 
himself;  he  would  n't  talk  any  more  about  it. 

The  suppliant,  as  a  last  resort,  appealed  to  the  fair  one 
herself,  begging  her  to  smile  on  his  suit,  and  assuring  her, 
with  marked  emphasis,  that,  if  successful  in  his  aspirations, 
he  would  give  her  plenty  of  grease.  At  this  last  argument 
she  was  unable  to  resist  longer,  but  entreated  her  father  to 
sanction  their  union.  But  the  hard-hearted  parent,  not  at 
all  mollified  by  this  appeal  from  his  decision  to  an  inferior 
tribunal,  broke  out  in  a  towering  passion,  and  poured  forth 
a  torrent  of  abuse.  The  mother  here  interposed,  and  be- 
sought him  not  to  be  angry  with  the  young  folks,  but  to 
deal  more  gently  and  considerately  with  them.  She  even 
hinted  that  he  might  have  done  injustice  to  the  young  man. 
He  might  turn  out  a  smarter  man  than  he  Bad  credit  for. 
He  might  —  who  knew  ?  —  make  a  fine  chief  yet,  possess 
g* 


92  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

plenty  of  horses,  and  prove  a  highly  eligible  match  for  their 
daughter.  The  old  fellow  had  been  (for  him)  quite  moder- 
ate, but  this  was  too  much.  His  rage  completely  mastered 
him.  He  rose  up,  seized  the  pappoose's  cradle,  and  hurled 
it  violently  out  of  doors,  and  the  other  chattels  appertain- 
ing to  his  daughter  went  after  it  in  rapid  succession.  He 
then  ordered  her  to  follow  her  goods  instanter,  with  which 
benediction  she  departed,  responding  with  a  smile  of  satis- 
faction, doubtless  anticipating  the  promised  luxuries  of  her 
new  home,  the  vision  of  which,  through  the  present  tempest, 
fortified  her  mind  against  its  worst  perils.  Leaving  the 
lodge,  she  gathered  up  her  scattered  effects,  and,  accompa- 
nied by  her  mother,  the  bridal  party  disappeared. 

The  chief  sat  on  his  horse-skin  couch,  his  legs  crossed 
partly  under  him,  looking  sour  enough.  Presently  the 
bride  and  her  mother  returned,  and  now  began  the  second 
scene.  The  chief  no  sooner  recognized  them  than  a  sound 
—  something  between  a  grunt  and  a  growl,  but  much  nearer 
the  latter  than  the  former,  and  in  a  decided  crescendo  — 
gave  warning  of  a  fresh  eruption.  The  rumbling  grew 
more  emphatic,  and  suddenly  his  fury  burst  on  the  head  of 
his  wife.  Seizing  her  by  the  hair,  he  hurled  her  violently 
to  the  ground,  and  beat  her  with  his  clenched  fists  till  I 
thought  he  would  break  every  bone  in  her  body,  and  reduce 
her  substance  to  a  jelly.  Perhaps  I  was  a  little  hard-hearted, 
but  she  had  been  one  of  my  bitterest  enemies,  and  I  had  a 
feeling  that  if  some  of  her  ill-will  to  me  could  be  beaten  out 
of  her,  I  could  be  easily  resigned  to  her  fate.  The  drub- 
bing ended,  she  rose  and  muttered  something  he  did  not 
like.  He  replied  by  a  violent  blow  on  the  side  of  her  head, 
that  sent  her  staggering  to  the  further  end  of  the  hut.  This 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  93 

last  argumo  it  was  decisive,  and  she  kept  her  huge  mouth 
closed  for  the  night.  There  was  a  silent  pause  for  some 
minutes,  and,  without  another  word,  we  ranged  ourselves 
for  repose.  I  thoughl  the  old  heathen's  conscience  troubled 
him  through  the  night ;  his  sleep  was  broken,  and  he  ap- 
peared very  restless.  Early  the  next  morning  he  went  to 
the  lodge  of  the  newly-married  pair,  and  had  a  long  chat 
with  them.  They  thought  him  rather  severe  upon  them  at 
first ;  but,  after  a  good  deal  of  diplomacy,  a  better  under- 
standing was  brought  about.  The  young  people  could 
hardly  get  over  a  sense  of  the  indignities  they  had  received ; 
but  in  the  course  of  the  day  they  returned,  bag  and  bag- 
gage, to  the  old  chief's  tent,  and  made  it  their  permanent 
abode. 

We  now  moved  in  a  westerly  direction,  and  on  the  way 
succeeded  in  capturing  a  good  deal  of  game.  Their  mode 
of  dealing  with  the  carcass  of  the  guanaco  is  enough  to 
dissipate  whatever  appetizing  qualities  the  meat  —  in  itself 
very  palatable  —  would  otherwise  possess.  It  was  no 
uncommon  circumstance,  while  the  squaws  were  removitig 
the  hide,  to  see  the  dogs  tugging  at  the  other  extremity, 
the  women,  meantime,  crying  out  "  Eh  !  Ah  !  "  in  a  dissua- 
sive, though  not  angry,  tone.  If  the  animals  become 
too  audacious,  the  ire  of  their  mistresses  is  kindled,  and  they 
break  out  with  "  Cashuran  cashahy  !  "  a  phrase  equivalent 
to  that  which,  in  English,  directs  its  object  to  a  region 
unmentionable  in  ears  polite. 

The  Indians  have,  strictly  speaking,  no  profane  expres- 
sions. I  never  could  learn  that  they  worshipped  or  had  any 
idea  of  a  Supreme  Being.  The  only  observance  which  bore 
any  aspect  of  religion  was  associated  with  something  we 


94  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

should  little  think  of  as  an  object  of  adoration  —  the 
tobacco-pipe  ;  —  though,  how  far  this  is,  in  fact,  an  object 
of  idolatry  in  Christian  lands,  it  might  not  become  me  to 
speculate.  The  only  occasions  on  which  the  Indians  dis- 
covered any  appearance  of  devotion  were  those  of  smoking. 
This  may  have  been  only  a  symptom  of  intoxication,  but 
the  reader  may  judge  for  himself. 

A  group  of  a  dozen  or  more  assemble,  —  sometimes  in  a 
wigwam,  sometimes  in  the  open  air.  A  vessel  made  of  a 
piece  of  hide  bent  into  a  saucer-shape  while  green  and 
afterwards  hardened,  or  sometimes  an  ox-horn,  filled  with 
water,  is  set  on  the  ground.  A  stone  pipe  is  filled  with  the 
scrapings  of  a  wood  resembling  yellow  ebony,  mixed  with 
finely-cut  tobacco.  The  company  then  lay  themselves  in  a 
circle  flat  on  their  faces,  their  mantles  drawn  up  to  the  tops 
of  their  heads.  The  pipe  is  lighted.  One  takes  it  into  his 
mouth  and  inhales  as  much  smoke  as  he  can  swallow  ;  the 
others  take  it  in  succession,  till  all  have  become  satisfied. 
By  the  time  the  second  smoker  is  fully  charged,  the  first 
begins  a  series  of  groanings  and  gruntings,  with  a  slight 
trembling  of  the  head,  the  smoke  slowly  oozing  out  at  the 
nostrils.  The  groaning  soon  becomes  general,  and  waxes 
louder,  till  it  swells  into  a  hideous  howling,  enough  to 
frighten  man  or  beast.  The  noise  gradually  dies  away. 
They  remain  a  short  time  in  profound  silence,  and  each  im- 
bibes a  draught  of  water.  Then  succeeds  another  interval 
of  silence,  observed  with  the  most  profound  and  devotional 
gravity.  All  at  length  arise,  and  slowly  disperse.  Now, 
this  may  or  may  not  have  been  a  form  of  worship ;  but  the 
circumstances  attending  it,  the  numbers  uniformly  engaged 
in  it,  the  formality  with  which  it  was  invariably  conducted 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  95 

the  solemnity  of  visage,  the  reverential  grimace,  the  pros- 
tration, the  silence,  the  trembling,  —  these,  and  traits  of 
expression  which  are  more  easily  discerned  and  remembered 
than  described,  gave  me  a  decided  impression  that  the 
whole  had  a  superstitious  meaning.  The  natural  operation 
of  the  tobacco,  and  of  the  substance  mixed  with  it,  might 
explain  part  of  the  symptoms,—  the  writhing  and  groaning, 
—  but  these  appeared  to  be  a  good  deal  in  excess,  and  there 
were  other  features  of  the  case  which  appeared  to  require 
another  solution. 

I  never  asked  any  explanation.  The  mystery  which  sav- 
age tribes  are  so  apt  to  throw  around  their  religious  rites, 
and  their  resentment  at  any  unhallowed  curiosity,  I  was 
not  inclined  to  meddle  with  or  provoke.  If  my  conjectures 
were  just  as  to  the  nature  of  this  ceremony,  inquiry  might 
lead  to  unpleasant  consequences.  Ignorance  appeared,  on 
the  whole,  safer  than  knowledge  of  good  or  evil,  gained  at 
the  risk  of  being  caught  trespassing  on  things  forbidden. 
If  any  one  thinks  my  precaution  excessive,  he  is  at  liberty 
to  take  a  different  course  whenever  he  finds  himself  in  the 
jurisdiction  of  Parosilver,  or  any  other  Patagonian  chief. 

The  inquiry  may  arise,  especially  in  the  mind  of  the  reli- 
gious reader,  whether  I  attempted  to  impart  to  my  captors 
any  knowledge  of  Grod,  his  attributes  and  laws.  The  answer 
is  quite  ready, — No,  and  for  a  variety  of  reasons.  The 
writer  did  not  understand  enough  of  either  Spanish  or 
Indian  to  communicate  intelligible  ideas  on  any  matters 
beyond  the  range  of  the  senses  ,  and  Patagonia  is  pretty 
barren  of  sensible  phenomena,  which  made  my  stock  of 
words  more  limited  thar  it  might  have  been  under  more 
favorable  circumstances.  There  was  no  finding  "  tongues 


96  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

in  trees,"  or  "  books  in  the  running  brooks ;  "  the  land 
possesses  neither  in  numbers  sufficient  to  be  conversable. 
"  Sermons  in  stones,"  even,  must  have  been  of  very  pebbly 
dimensions,  and  of  no  great  weight.  Had  this  difficulty 
been  removed,  I  confess  I  had  no  great  desire  to  sur- 
mount it.  I  was  the  object  of  suspicion  and  hostility.  My 
life  was  in  constant  danger.  To  diminish,  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, the  causes  of  dislike,  to  mitigate  their  ferocious  hate, 
to  elude  occasions  of  mischief,  to  delay  what  I  feared  could 
not  be  very  long  prevented,  was  my  continual  study.  If 
the  reader  is  not  satisfied  with  this  account  of  my  conduct, 
I  am  sorry  for  it,  but  cannot  afford  any  words  of  con- 
trition. It  is  vastly  easier,  I  may  hint  to  the  objector,  to 
prescribe  another's  duties  than  to  judge  of  one's  own,  es- 
pecially where  the  two  parties  are  in  circumstances  so 
widely  differing.  The  Patagonians  need  the  gospel — and 
the  law — as  much  as  any  people  I  could  name  from  per- 
sonal observation.  There  was  no  trace  of  instruction  im- 
parted at  a  previous  period,  and  the  reception  Christianity 
would  meet  with  among  them  is  yet  to  be  discovered. 

Their  pipes  are  made  of  a  hard  red  stone,  the  bowl  dug 
out  with  whatever  iron  or  steel  implement  is  at  command 
to  the  dimensions  of  an  ordinary  clay  pipe,  the  stem  about 
an  inch  square,  and  three  inches  long,  with  a  small  per- 
foration. A  copper  or  brass  tube,  about  two  inches  long, 
is  fitted  to  the  stem,  and  serves  as  a  mouth-piece.  This  is 
made  by  bending  or  hammering  a  metallic  plate  about  a 
small  round  stick,  and  soldering  or  cementing  it  with  a 
glutinous  substance  thickened  with  earth. 

The  copper,  brass  and  iron,  seen  among  them,  was  prob- 
ably procured  from  unfortunate  vessels  wrecked  on  their 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  97 

coast.  I  was  informed  by  Captain  Morton,  of  whom  the 
persevering  reader  will  know  more  hereafter,  that  h.e  had 
touched  at  Sea  Bear  Bay  for  a  harbor,  and  saw  there  great 
quantities  of  iron  pumps,  ships'  hanging  knees,  and  other 
gear,  from  wrecks  of  vessels  of  all  sizes.  As  he  was  bound 
for  the  land  of  gold,  he  thought  it  scarcely  worth  his  while 
to  collect  the  baser  metals.  Had  he  been  homeward  bound, 
he  might  have  obtained  a  valuable  cargo. 

As  ornaments,  bits  of  brass  and  copper,  of  silver  and 
German  silver,  have  a  high  value  among  the  Indians,  and 
when  the  metals  are  plenty  such  adornment  is  very  com- 
mon. The  children's  shoes  have  small  oval  pieces  sewed 
on  in  front,  and  they  appear  on  other  parts  of  their  dress. 
When  scarce,  they  are  more  seldom  seen.  Blacksmithing 
in  Patagonia  is  something  of  the  rudest.  Two  hard  flat 
stones  do  duty,  the  one  as  anvil,  and  the  other  as  hammer. 
Of  the  effect  of  heat  in  making  the  metals  malleable,  and 
of  the  art  of  tempering,  the  people  have  no  knowledge.  To 
make  a  knife,  they  take  a  piece  of  iron  hoop,  or  iron  in  any 
practicable  shape,  and  hammer  away  upon  it  at  a  pro- 
vokingly  slow  rate.  Their  blows  are  not  heavy  enough  to 
do  much  execution ;  but  they  keep  up  a  constant  tap,  tap, 
tap,  hour  by  hour,  till  the  iron  is  flattened  to  the  required 
shape  and  dimensions.  It  is  then  rubbed  on  a  smooth 
stone  till  it  is  worn  down  to  an  edge,  and  finally  inserted 
into  a  wooden  handle.  Sometimes  melted  lead  is  poured 
into  the  handle,  but  lead  appeared  to  be  a  scarce  com- 
modity. All  mechanic  arts,  if  they  deserve  the  name,  are 
in  an  equally  rude  and  primitive  stage.  The  simplicity  of 
these  people's  ideas  is  indeed  extraordinary.  In  invention 
or  constructiveness  they  are  babes.  A  Yankee  boy,  six 


98  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

years  old,  would  be  a  prodigy  among  them,  —  a  miracle  of 
genius. 

An  opportunity  was  afforded,  while  in  camp,  to  see  some 
specimens  of  their  tailoring  or  mantua-making  achieve- 
ments :  —  either  term  is  appropriate,  as  the  male  and 
female  dress  do  not  differ  in  form,  and  but  slightly  in  the 
mode  of  adjustment.  The  mantle  or  blanket  is  worn 
around  the  shoulders  ;  those  of  the  women-  are  fastened  to- 
gether by  the  corners  under  the  chin  with  a  stick  for  a 
pin  ;  the  men  hold  theirs  around  them  with  their  hands, 
except  that  when  hunting  they  tie  a  string  around  the 
waist. 

The  skins  of  young  guanacos  are  selected  for  mantles,  on 
account  of  the  superior  fineness  and  softness  of  the  hair. 
Nearly  a  dozen  skins  are  used  for  a  single  mantle,  as  a 
large  part  of  each  is  esteemed  unfit  for  use,  and  thrown 
away.  The  skins,  while  green,  are  stretched  to  their 
utmost  tension  on  the  ground  to  dry.  When  partially 
dried,  they  are  scraped  on  the  inside  with  a  stone  sharpened 
like  a  gun-flint,  sprinkled  the  while  with  water,  to  facilitate 
the  operation.  When  the  surface  is  made  tolerably  smooth, 
and  of  a  pretty  uniform  thickness,  it  is  actively  scoured 
with  a  coarse-grained  stone,  till  it  has  a  bright  polish. 
The  skin  is  again  dried,  then  crumpled  and  twisted  in  the 
hands  till  it  becomes  perfectly  soft  and  pliable.  The 
thread,  as  has  been  stated,  is  made  from  the  sinews  of  the 
ostrich.  These  are  extracted  by  the  exertion  of  great 
strength,  and  divided  into  strings  about  the  size  of  ordi- 
nary shoe-thread.  They  are  then  twisted,  the  ends  are 
scraped  to  a  point,  and  when  dry  become  stiff;  they  are 
now  ready  for  use. 


TIIE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  VJ 

Two  pieces  of  skin  are  cut  to  fit  each  ether.  The 
tailoress  (for  all  the  work,  from  the  curing  of  the  skins  to 
the  last  results,  is  done. by  the  squaws)  holds  the  edges 
together  with  the  left  hand,  and  drills  them  for  sewing 
with  a  sharpened  nail,  held  between  the  first  two  fingers  of 
the  right  hand ;  the  pointed  thread,  held  between  the 
finger  and  thumb,  is  inserted  and  drawn  through,  and  so 
the  work*  goes  on.  The  stitches  are  tolerably  fine,  and  a 
very  neat  seam  is  made.  Other  pieces  are  added,  and 
when  the  whole  is  finished  the  seams  are  rubbed  smooth 
with  a  bone.  The  fur  being  worn  inside,  there  remains  the 
work  of  outside  decoration.  With  a  due  quantity  of  clay, 
blood,  charcoal  and  grease,  amalgamated  for  the  purpose, 
the  artist  arms  herself  with  a  stick  for  a  brush,  and 
executes  divers  figures  in  black,  oa  a  red  ground ;  which 
if  intended  to  shadow  forth  men,  require  a  vigorous  imag- 
ination to  detect  the  purpose.  They  might  pass  for  un- 
happy ghosts  (if  a  little  more  ethereal  in  composition),  or 
for  deformed  trees.  They  bear  a  rude  resemblance  to  a 
ehair  in  profile,  or  a  figure  4;  and  are  thickly  disposed  over 
the  whole  surface,  in  the  attitude  sometimes  vulgarly 
termed  "  spoon-fashion."  The  garment  is  now  complete ; 
the  edges  are  carefully  trimmed  with  a  knife,  and  the 
fabric  is  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  with  the  infallible 
certainty  of  fitting  as  closely  as  the  native  tastes  require. 
There  is  no  trial  of  patience  in  smoothing  obstinate  wrinkles. 
A  "  genteel  fit  "  is  the  easiest  thing  in  the  world  ;  wherein 
Patagonian  tailors  have  decidedly  the  advantage  of  their 
fellow-craftsmen  in  civilized  lands. 
9 


100  1HE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER    Y. 

Inclement  Breather  —  State  of  my  wardrobe  —  Attempts  to  deprive  r_e  t>f 
my  clothes  —  Powwow  and  horse-killing  —  Hair-combing  extraord.nary 

—  Remedy  for   rheumatism  —  Sickness  —  Turn   barber  —  A  cold  bath 

—  Fasting  —  Discovery   of   my   watch,   and  its    effect  —  I  am   made 
showman  —  Lion-hunt  —  Successful  chase. 

AT  our  next  halt  we  encamped  in  a  deepr  swampy 
valley.  The  weather  was  cold  and  stormy ;  rain,  snow, 
sleet  and  hail,  fell  alternately,  but  did  not  accumulate  on 
the  earth  to  any  considerable  depth.  Fitful  gusts  of  wind 
came  sweeping  through  the  camp,  making  the  wigwams 
shake  fearfully.  Our  old  lodge  gallantly  rode  out  the 
gale ;  but,  either  owing  to  its  straining  and  working  in  the 
storm,  or  to  some  defects  in  the  original  structure,  leaked 
shockingly  all  night.  I  was  repeatedly  awakened  by  a 
stream  of  cold  water  running  under  me.  Giving  the  skin 
roof  a  few  knocks  to  lighten  it  of  its  watery  burden,  and 
shaking  the  wet  skin  which  constituted  my  couch,  I  would 
throw  myself  down,  and  resign  myself  to  repose;  but  before 
quiet  was  fairly  restored,  another  inundation  would  drive 
me  to  my  feet.  The  night  wore  away  with  me,  wet,  cold 
and  sleepless.  After  daybreak  I  rose,  and  continued  for 
two  hours  in  vigorous  exercise  to  restore  warmth  to  my 
chilled  frame,  before  the  Indians  were  astir.  Fires  weio 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  101 

then  kindled,  and  matters  began  to  assume  a  more  cheerful 
appearance. 

The  weather,  quite  cool  on  my  first  landing,  had  grown 
gradually  colder,  and  was  becoming  inclement.  I  was 
scantily  prepared  to  endure  the  severity  of  winter.  My 
under-garments,  as  before  related,  were  desperately  ex- 
pended in  trying  to  signal  passing  vessels.  Cravat  and 
pocket-handkerchief  were  appropriated  to  the  adornment 
of  the  women  in  our  household,  to  the  no  small  envy  of  less 
favored  ones.  My  sole  article  of  linen  was  in  shreds,  and 
of  a  color  that  would  afford  matter  for  speculation  to  a 
jury  of  washerwomen.  Stockings  and  shoes  were  sadly 
dilapidated ;  coat  and  trousers  were  glazed  with  dirt  and 
grease  till  they  shone  like  a  glass  bottle.  The  contents  of 
my  pockets  were  all  confiscated,  —  purse,  keys,  knife,  <fcc., 
—  and  a  pair  of  pistols,  of  the  use  of  which  my  captors 
knew  nothing,  were  taken  to  pieces,  and  the  brass  mount- 
ings suspended  about  the  necks  of  the  chief 's  wives.  In 
short,  iny  outer  man  was  nigh  unto  perishing,  and  I  had  no 
visible  resources  to  arrest  or  repair  the  process  of  time, 
while  I  was  not  sufficiently  inured  to  the  climate  to  adopt 
the  native  dress  without  serious  risk  to  health.  But  none 
of  these  things  were  allowed  to  trouble  me.  I  took  no 
thought  for  the  morrow,  but,  according  to  the  scriptural 
injunction,  suffered  the  morrow  to  take  care  for  the  things 
of  itself,  esteeming  sufficient  unto  each  day  the  evil 
thereof. 

At  an  early  period  of  my  captivity,  the  chief  and  some 
other  Indians  had  cast  a  longing  eye  on  my  clothes,  and 
tried  to  seduce  me  into  parting  with  them.  They  offered 
no  compulsion  in  the  matter,  but  resorted  to  all  manner  of 


102  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

tricks.  It  seemed  that  they  thought  a  white  man  could 
afford  lo  go  without  dressing.  I  explained  to  them  that, 
having  always  worn  clothes,  —  having  in  infancy,  even, 
unlike  Patagonian  piccaninnies,  been  externally  protected 
against  the  fresh  air,  —  it  was  quite  impossible  for  me  to 
change  my  habits  without  the  hazard  of  my  life ;  and,  if 
1  should  die  in  consequence  of  yielding  to  their  wishes, 
they  were  reminded  they  would  lose  the  valuable  ransom 
they  expected  for  me.  This  reasoning  proved  convincing ; 
greatly  as  they  longed  for  my  wardrobe,  they  more  desired 
rum  and  tobacco,  and  I  was  permitted  the  undisturbed 
enjoyment  of  the  scanty  covering  left  me. 

The  storm  continued  for  two  days  and  nights;  on  the 
third  day  it  cleared  up.  About  mid-day,  observing  a 
crowd  of  Indians  together  with  a  huge  jargon  of  tongues, 
I  learned,  on  inquiry,  that  a  horse  was  to  be  killed;  a 
matter  which,  it  appeared,  was  always  the  occasion  of  a 
solemn  powwow.  On  reaching  the  spot,  a  poor  old  beast, 
lean  and  lank,  with  a  lariat  about  his  neck,  stood  sur- 
rounded by  some  fifty  Indians.  The  squaws  were  singing, 
in  stentorian  tones,  «*  Ye  !  Ye  !  Yup  !  Yup  !  Lar,  lapuly, 
yapuly  ! "  with  a  repetition  that  became  unendurable,  and 
drove  me  to  a  respectful  distance.  The  horse's  fore-legs 
were  fast  bound  together,  a  violent  push  forward  threw 
him  heavily  to  the  ground,  ana  he  was  speedily  despatched 
with  a  knife;  anticipating,  by  a  few  days,  the  ordinary 
course  of  nature.  Soon  after  my  return  to  the  wigwam,  a 
huge  portion  of  the  carcass  was  sent  to  our  quarters  and 
hung  up,  to  furnish  our  next  meals!  After  being  duly 
dressed  by  the  women,  with  the  aid  of  the  dogs,  and 
scorched  and  smoked  according  to  usage,  it  was  served 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  103 

up,  —  my  only  alternative  to  starvation.  Famine  has  no 
scruples  of  delicacy ;  if  the  reader  is  disgusted,  he  is  in  a, 
state  of  sympathy  with  the  writer. 

Early  the  next  day  we  (literally)  pulled  up  stakes,  and 
were  on  the  move ;  and,  after  journeying  all  day,  encamped 
in  a  situation  very  like  the  one  we  left  in  the  morning. 
The  Indians  spent  their  time,  as  usual,  in  gambling  and  in 
combing  each  other's  hair,  with  a  brush  made  of  stiff  dry 
roots,  tied  up  together.  The  operator  received  as  a  fee 
the  game  captured  in  the  process.  The  reader  will  excuse 
a  more  explicit  statement  of  what,  though  less  abominable 
than  cannibalism,  is  hardly  less  repulsive. 

One  evening  our  family  circle  were  seated  round  a  fire, 
which  sent  up  volumes  of  smoke  sufficiently  dense  to  suit 
a  savage  of  the  most  exacting  taste,  and  which  drove  me, 
as  usual,  to  the  back  part  of  the  hut,  where  I  lay  flat  on 
my  face.  One  of  the  chief's  wives  was  inveighing  against 
me,  as  was  her  wont,  and  a  second  occasionally  joined  in 
the  strain,  by  way  of  chorus.  A  third  was  cracking  the 
bones  of  a  guanaco,  that  her  son  Cohanaco  might  eat  the 
marrow.  The  fourth  and  last  of  the  women  was  attending 
to  a  piece  of  meat  for  our  supper,  fixed  on  a  forked  stick, 
in  the  smoke.  Two  sons  were  engaged,  as  usual,  in  doing 
nothing,  except  occasionally  begging  a  little  of  the  marrow, 
and  scraping  their  dirty  Tegs  with  a  sheath-knife,  by  wa^ 
of  diversion  ;  sundry  by -plays,  and  little  pieces  of  mis 
chief,  served  to  fill  up  the  spare  minutes.  The  old  chief, 
who  had  been  silently  regarding  the  scene,  now  commenced 
talking,  in  a  low,  mumbling,  guttural  tone,  to  one  of  his 
wives.  She  was  busily  eying  the  toasting-fork,  and  study- 
ing the/process  of  cooking ;  but,  at  her  husband's  instance, 
9* 


104  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

left  them,  and  drew  from  their  repository  of  tools  a  sharp- 
ened nail  fixed  in  a  wooden  handle,  like  an  awl.  The 
chief  stretched  himself  on  the  ground,  face  downwards ;  a 
surgical  operation  was  plainly  impending.  What  could 
the  matter  be  ?  Had  the  chief,  in  the  excess  of  his  plump- 
ness, burst  open,  like  ripe  fruit,  requiring  to  be  sewed  up  ? 
I  drew  my  head  from  beneath  the  protection  I  had  pro- 
vided against  the  smoke,  and  rose  on  my  knees,  to  get  a 
better  view ;  the  huge,  black,  greasy  monster  lay  extended 
at  his  full  length,  his  wife  pinched  up  the  skin  on  his 
back,  pierced  it  with  her  awl,  and  continued  the  process 
till  a  number  of  perforations  were  made,  from  which  the 
blood  oozed  slowly.  I  asked  the  meaning  of  this  operation, 
and  was  told  by  the  chief  that  he  had  pains  in  his  back, 
for  which  this  was  the  best  remedy.  Blood-letting,  it 
seemed,  is  no  monopoly  of  the  faculty.  I  told  him  that  in 
my  country  we  applied,  in  such  cases,  a  liquid  called 
opodeldoc,  an  infallible  remedy,  and  promised  to  procure 
him  some  when  we  got  to  Holland.  This  was  henceforth 
added  to  my  list  of  inducements. 

The  old  fellow  righted  himself,  and  leaned  against  one 
of  the  pillars  of  his  palace ;  one  of  his  partners  pulled  up 
the  toasting-fork,  and  jerked  the  half-roasted  and  more 
than  sufficiently  smoked  meat  upon  the  ground,  seized  the 
knife  which  the  boys  had  been  playing  with,  and  cut  the 
mess  into  liberal  pieces,  which  were  thrown  broadcast  on 
either  side.  The  chief's  appetite  did  not  appear  to  be 
affected  either  by  his  indisposition  or  by  the  extraordinary 
remedy  applied ;  his  portion  of  the  cdrne  disappeared 
behind  his  great  white  teeth  with  a  haste  that  seemed  to 
involve  no  waste. 


THE  CAPTIVE  IN  PATAGONIA.  105 

Rheuiiatic  affections,  they  told  me,  are  very  common 
among  them ;  the  chief  showed  me  the  arm  of  one  of  his 
wives,  which  was  scarred  from  the  wrist  to  the  shoulder 
by  the  awl ;  and  the  operation  was  afterwards  performed  on 
other  members  of  the  family. 

Again  we  took  up  the  line  of  march,  travelling,  as  near 
as  I  could  judge,  west-north-west,  and  killing  a  quantity 
of  game,  both  guanaco  and  ostrich.  But  the  hardship  of 
my  life,  aggravated  by  a  constant  flesh  diet,  and  that  eaten 
half  raw,  and  at  irregular  seasons,  —  often  going  two  days 
without  food, —  had,  by  this  time,  brought  on  a  dysentery. 
This  was  no  more  than  I  had  expected ;  but  I  knew  of  no 
remedy,  and  had  to  endure  it  as  I  could.  "We  encamped, 
on  the  second  day,  near  the  banks  of  the  river  Gallegos  ;  a 
fine  spring  of  water  issued  from  the  river-bank  into  a  low 
marshy  ground,  skirting  the  margin  of  the  stream.  By 
this  time  my  illness  had  increased,  till  I  felt  unfit  to 
travel  further,  and  began  to  think  that  death  could  not 
be  distant.  No  change  of  diet  was  practicable,  and  there 
was  nothing  to  counteract  its  effect  on  my  system.  The 
pain  and  weariness  of  travelling  did  their  part  to  aggra- 
vate the  disorder  ;  and  mental  discouragement  —  the  sick- 
ness of  hope  deferred  —  completed  my  prostration.  No 
human  being  in  that  desolate  land  cared  for  my  sufferings, 
more  than  they  would  for*  those  of  a  dog.  Worn  out  with 
the  constant  irritations  of  a  state  of  existence  odious  to 
every  sensibility,  tired  and  disheartened,  but  for  one 
thought  I  could  have  gladly  laid  myself  down  to  die, 
to  get  at  once  and  forever  beyond  the  reach  of  my  savage 
tormentors.  The  thought  of  home,  of  wife  and  child,  of 
friends^and  country,  and  all  tte  unutterable  emotions  that 


106  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

respond  to  these  precious  names,  at  once  tortured  and 
Strengthened  me.  These,  and  the  thought  that  perhaps, 
after  patient  endurance,  Divine  Providence  would  restore 
me  to  the  objects  of  my  famished  affections,  made  life  still 
dear.  These  strengthened  me  to  suffer  and  to  strive. 

As  I  crawled  out  of  the  lodge,  to  look  upon  the  sun,  and 
breathe  the  pure  air,  and  be  refreshed  by  breezes  untainted 
with  the  breath  of  cruel  men,  it  came  into  my  mind  that 
some  palatable  or  even  tolerable  species  of  plant  or 
root  would  be  wholesome  for  me.  On  looking  about,  there 
presented  itself  a  specimen  of  large  dock,  such  as  is  com- 
mon in  the  United  States ;  a  weed  of  humble  pretensions, 
but  why  not  worthy  of  a  trial  ?  With  what  strength 
remained  at  command,  I  began  a  process  of  "  extracting 
roots,"  with  good  success.  Taking  a  quantity  into  the 
hut,  and  roasting  them  in  hot  ashes,  they  were  found  to 
be  not  distasteful ;  I  filled  my  pockets  with  them,  and 
abandoned  flesh-diet  for  a  little  time,  to  the  sensible, 
though  gradual,  relief  of  my  sufferings.  Fortunately  we 
had  a  season  of  bad  weather,  which  prevented  any  advance 
movement  for  four  or  five  days,  and  gave  me  time  par- 
tially to  recover  strength.  I  could  not  sooner  have  kept 
my  seat  on  a  horse;  and,  if  the  alternative  had  been 
presented,  the  Indians,  as  I  very  well  knew,  would  sooner 
have  knocked  me  on  the  head  than  have  allowed  me  to 
Binder  their  march  for  a  day.  A  powwow  was  held  over 
another  horse,  unserviceable  alive,  and  therefore  marked 
for  diet ;  but  this  time  I  did  not  compete  for  any  part  of 
his  carcass,  my  pocket-stores  being  quite  sufficient,  and 
more  attractive,  But  in  the  fate  of  the  poor  beast  J  read 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  107 

a  warning  to  myself,  to  make  haste  and  get  well  enough  to 
move  at  the  first  signal. 

Away  again, — this  time  facing  about,  and  passing  down 
the  river.  I  needed  rest;  but,  at  whatever  expense  of 
suffering,  needs  must  when  a  certain  old  gentleman  drives. 
At  the  next  stopping-place  my  services  were  called  into 
requisition  in  a  new  department.  One  forenoon,  as  I 
sauntered  towards  our  wigwam,  after  a  stroll  among  the 
smutty  huts,  to  kill  time  and  divert  painful  thoughts,  I 
was  hailed  from  within  by  the  chief,  "  Arke,  Boney  !  " 
On  entering,  he  appeared  to  be  conversing,  in  low,  gurgling 
sounds,  with  his  lately-married  daughter,  who  was  running 
her  hands  through  the  shaggy  hair  of  her  young  hope,  as 
she  talked.  Something  was  plainly  wrong  in  the  young- 
ster's top-knot,  and  some  unpleasant  task  in  relation  thereto 
was  as  plainly  about  to  be  imposed  upon  me.  The  chief 
resolved  my  doubts,  by  ordering  me  to  cut  off  a  portion 
of  the  shag ;  I  objected  a  want  of  the  proper  implements, 
but  the  mother  silenced  me  by  producing  an  old  pair  of 
scissors,  in  no  condition  to  cut  anything.  Calling  for  a 
file,  the  rusty  edges  were  brought  into  a  tolerable  state, 
and  I  approached  the  task.  Such  a  sight !  If  the  hair 
now  would  have  obeyed  a  mesmeric  pass,  without  the  need 
of  manual  contact,  —  if  the  job  could  be  performed  with 
closed  eyes,  and  insensible  nostrils,  and  absent  mind ! 
Faugh !  I  hurried  through  the  penaiue,  hiding  disgust, 
and  assuming  the  appearance  of  good  will,  and  made  good 
my  escape  into  tl  e  fresh  air.  And  so  I  must  turn  barber, 
and,  in  all  likelihood,  have  the  dirty  heads  of  half  the 
tribe  put  under  my  nose  !  What  would  come  next  ? 

Our  next  move  took  us  across  the  river   Gallegos,  in 


108  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

shoal  water,  be  rely  up  to  the  horses'  knees.  The  current 
was  rapid,  and  nasses  of  floating  ice  were  swept  along  with 
it.  When  half  way  across,  my  horse  took  fright,  reared, 
and,  in  attempting  a  sudden  turn,  precipitated  me  into  the 
water,  and  fell  heavily  upon  me.  The  ducking  and  the 
bruise  together  were  severe,  and,  among  other  disasters,  the 
crystal  of  my  watch  was  broken  by  the  shock.  This  I 
had  kept  carefully  secreted,  as  a  last  resort,  to  amuse  the 
savages  when  other  expedients  should  fail,  —  when  memory 
and  invention  could  yield  no  more  tales,  when  promises 
should  have  become  threadbare  with  repetition,  and  when 
pretensions  of  greatness  at  home  should  have  lost  their 
power  by  the  every-day  disclosure  of  present  weakness  and 
humiliation. 

We  —  that  is  to  say,  myself  and  the  old  horse  —  kicked 
and  floundered  a  while  in  the  cold  water,  till  at  last  the 
creature  succeeded  in  rising,  and  I  followed  his  example. 
We  waded  ashore,  dripping,  amidst  the  uproarious  laughter 
of  the  whole  troop.  Once  more  mounted  on  my  Rosinante, 
we  resumed  our  line  of  march.  The  chill  from  my  cold 
bath  so  benumbed  me  that  I  had  to  dismount  and  lead  the 
horse*,  to  recover,  by  brisk  walking,  some  portion  of  animal 
warmth.  Our  course  was  down  the  river  towards  the  At- 
lantic. Being  unsuccessful  in  the  chase,  we  pitched  our 
tents  at  night,  supperless,  and  without  prospect  of  break- 
fasting the  next  morning.  A  small  fire  was  lighted,  which 
I  hugged  as  closely  as  possible,  to  thaw  my  stiffened 
limbs ;  and  then,  cold,  wet  and  hungry,  fagged  to  extremity, 
cast  myself  on  the  gro  ind,  to  repose  as  I  might.  The  next 
monr'ng  was  stormy.  It  cleared  up  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  Indians  sallied  out  to  find  some  food.  My  onlv  refresh- 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  109 

ment  before  their  return  was  a  little  grease,  which  one  of 
the  squaws  scooped  out  of  an  ostrich-skin  with  her  dirty 
thumb  and  finger.  It  was  so  black  that  its  pedigree  — 
whether  guanaco,  ostrich  or  skunk,  or  a  compound  gathered 
at  random  from  beast  and  bird  —  was  a  problem  defying 
solution ;  but  famine  is  not  fastidious,  and  I  swallowed 
greedily  what,  a  few  months  before,  I  should  hardly  have 
thought  fit  to  grease  shoes  with.  The  men -came  back  with 
a  few  ostriches  and  skunks.  The  chief  received  as  his  por- 
tion one  of  tho  quadrupeds.  The  associations  connected 
with  its  name,  as  related  to  one  sense,  were  not  adapted  to 
prepossess  the  others  in  its  favor  ;  but  I  made  shift  to  do 
justice  rather  to  the  Indian  than  to  my  habitual  tastes. 

During  the  three  days  we  remained  here,  the  long-con- 
cealed watch  was  brought  to  light.  The  filth  of  the  na- 
tives, the  condition  m  which  their  huts  and  their  persons 
were  always  suffered  to  remain,  the  swarms  of  vermin  they 
housed,  had  imposed  upon  me  extraordinary  care  to  prevent 
the  natural  results  upon  my  own  person ;  but  no  amount  of 
precaution  was  sufficient  to  avert  them.  The  reader  will 
excuse  me  from  speaking  more  particularly  on  this  head. 
Enough  to  say  that  I  found  myself  intolerably  tormented. 
The  chief  ordered  an  examination  of  the  case,  and  sent  for 
an  Indian  to  deal  with  it  according  to  their  art.  While 
divesting  myself  of  my  garments,  one  by  one,  for  this  pur- 
pose, the  old  fellow  caught  sight  of  the  hidden  treasure.  I 
knew  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  any  longer  to  retain  it, 
and  handed  it  over.  He  was  vastly  pleased  with  it.  I 
wound  it  up,  and  put  it  to  his  ear.  He  was  as  delighted  at 
the  unexpected  sound  as  a  child  with  its  first  rattle.  I 
explained  its  use  in  keeping  the  hours  of  the  day,  but  he 


110  THE    CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

cared  for  nothing  but  the  ticking.  The  breaking  of  the 
crystal  was  explained,  and  he  was  informed  that  another 
should  be  procured  as  soon  as  we  reached  "  Holland,"  — 
another  inducement,  I  hoped,  to  speed  our  passage  there. 

The  inspection  disclosed  a  state  of  the  cuticle  which 
would  be  thought  dreadful  in  a  civilized  land.  The  chief, 
however,  looked  as  calm  as  beseemed  a  surgical  examiner, 
and  in  a  good-natured  guttural  exchanged  a  few  words  with 
his  assistant,  who  placed  himself  by  my  side,  and  fixing  his 
eyes  steadily  upon  me,  begun  swinging  his  hands  and'howl- 
ing  like  a  wild  beast.  The  comparison  was  not  far  out  of 
the  way,  for  he  gave  a  sudden  spring,  fastened  his  teeth  on 
my  neck,  and  commenced  sucking  the  blood,  growling  all 
the  while  like  a  tiger  !  For  a  moment  I  thought  my  hour 
had  come.  I  weaned  the  rascal  as  soon  as  possible,  not 
knowing  what  his  taste  for  blood  might  come  to,  if  too  freely 
indulged.  It  seemed  like  a  refinement  upon  cannibalism, 
but  was,  in  fact,  as  I  soon  ascertained,  the  regular  treat- 
ment made  and  provided  by  Patagonian  science  for  the 
relief  of  severe  cutaneous  affections. 

The  chief,  all  this  while,  recurred  with  undiminished 
pleasure  to  the  ticking  of  his  new  toy.  When  his  curiosity 
had  at  length  abated,  he  returned  it  to  me.  I  wrapped  it 
carefully  in  a  rag,  and  enveloped  it  afterwards  in  a  young 
colt's  skin  provided  for  its  reception,  when,  by  direction 
of  its  present  august  proprietor,  it  was  suspended  among 
other  valuables  from  one  of  the  stakes  of  the  hut,  near  the 
spot  where  his  highness  customarily  reposed.  It  was  not, 
however,  allowed  long  to  remain  quiet.  I  was  ordered  to 
take  it  down  and  hold  it  to  the  ears  of  all  the  visitors  to  the 
lodge.  Forty  times  a  day  it  had  to  come  down  for  this 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  Ill 

purpose,  till  I  got  so  tired  of  my  showman's  duty  t'lat  I 
wished  the  watch  in  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  The  Indians, 
as  they  listened  to  its  vibrations,  would  stand  in  every  atti- 
tude of  silent  amazement,  their  eyes  dilated,  their  counte- 
nances lighted  up  in  every  feature  with  delighted  wonder 
and  then  break  out  in  a  roar  of  hoarse  laughter,  the  tone  of 
which  strangely  contrasted  with  the  infantile  simplicity  of 
their  demeanor.  The  business  was  dreadfully  annoying, 
and  yet  it  was  plain  that  a  new  and  almost  unbounded 
power  affecting  my  destiny  was  hidden  in  that  little  machine. 
It  had  captivated  the  chief,  and  struck  an  awe  over  the 
tribe  like  the  rod  of  an  enchanter.  Whether  it  boded  good 
or  evil,  was  another  question. 

Our  next  move  took  us  in  a  west-north-west  direction, 
and  in  our  progress  we  not  only  secured  abundant  game 
of  the  ordinary  varieties,  but  encountered  and  killed  a 
young  lion,  —  to  use  the  popular  term,  —  the  first  living 
specimen  I  had  seen  in  the  country.  I  had  seen  their  skins 
in  possession  of  the  Indians,  and  heard  stories  of  their 
chase.  This  was  a  youthful  creature,  about  the  size  of  a 
well-grown  calf  of  six  weeks.  I  was  riding  side  by  side 
with  the  chief  across  a  piece  of  low  bushy  land,  when  the 
dogs  gave  token  that  they  scented  something  uncommon. 
We  halted,  and  the  chief  cried  out  to  the  dogs,  "  Chew ! 
Chew !  "  They  were  off  in  a  jiffey,  rushing  hither  and 
thither  through  the  bushes,  barking  furiously,  and  soon 
drove  the  beast  from  his  covert.  Other  Indians,  a  little  dis- 
tance off,  ascertaining  what  was  in  the  wind,  made  after  the 
game  with  a  reinforcement  of  dogs.  The  chase  began  in 
good  earnest.  Horses,  riders  and  dogs,  from  all  points  of 
the  compass,  were  scampering  to  the  scene  of  actkn,  hal- 
10 


112  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

looing,  barking,  howling,  enough  to  frighten  any  unsophis- 
ticated  lion  out  of  his  senses.  Some  were  running  full  tilt, 
to  cut  off  his  retreat ;  while  the  hunters,  bareheaded,  lean- 
ing forward  in  their  saddles  and  urging  their  horses  to  their 
utmost  speed,  whirled  the  bolas  about  their  heads  and  let 
fly  with  a  vengeance,  with  no  other  effect  than  to  arrest  the 
furious  animal,  and  cause  him  to  turn  in  desperation  on 
the  dogs,  and  drive  them  back  yelping  with  pain.  Others 
of  the  pack,  watching  their  opportunity,  would  spring  upon 
his  back  and  fasten  their  teeth  in  his  flesh.  He  brushed 
them  off  with  a  single  stroke  of  his  paw,  as  if  they  had  been 
flies,  and  was  again  in  motion,  halting  occasionally  to  give 
fight  to  his  nearest  assailant.  Now  and  then  the  bolas  is 
hurled  at  him,  but  his  lithe  limbs,  though  sometimes  en- 
tangled, are  not  fettered  by  it,  and  his  prowess  is  hardly 
diminished.  The  Indians  press  around  him;  the  battle 
waxes  fiercer ;  his  whole  strength  is  taxed.  "  Chew  !  Chew !  " 
roar  the  savages ;  the  flagging  dogs  return  fresh  to  the 
onslaught,  and,  after  a  hard  and  unequal  contest,  the  animal 
is  fairly  overborne  by  numbers,  and  despatched  by  the 
blows  of  the  Indians.  I  had  kept  in  the  vicinity,  but  yet 
at  a  respectful  distance,  and  now  rode  up  to  view  the  slain, 
amidst  the  howlings  of  the  wounded  dogs  and  the  boisterous 
laughter  of  the  hunters.  It  was  a  beautiful  animal,  with 
soft,  sleek,  silvery  fur,  tipped  with  black ;  the  head  having 
a  general  resemblance  to  that  of  a  cat,  the  eye  large  and 
full,  and  sparkling  with  ferocity. 

After  the  Indians  had  eyed  their  game  r\fficiently,  and 
talked  and  laughed  and  grunted  their  satisfaction,  and  con- 
gratulated themselves  generally  on  their  victory,  and  sev- 
erally on  the  part  each  had  taken,  the  body  was  driven  off 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  113 

on  the  back  of  a  horse,  and  the  hunters  again  spread  them- 
selves over  the  country.  Some  ostriches  were  soon  started 
up.  The  chief  drew  out  his  bolas,  put  spurs  to  his  horse, 
and  darted  away.  His  mantle  fell  from  his  shoulders ;  his 
long,  straight  black  hair,  so  coarse  that  each  particular  hair 
stood  independently  on  end,  streamed  in  the  wind;  his  hid- 
eously painted  face  and  body  loomed  up  with  grotesque 
stateliness,  and  the  deadly  missile  whirled  frantically  over 
his  head.  The  whizzing  weapon  is  suddenly  hurled  at  his 
victim,  the  chief  still  sitting  erect  in  his  saddle  to  watch  its 
effect.  His  horse  suddenly  stops,  —  he  dismounts  nimbly, 
seizes  the  entangled  bird  by  the  throat,  and  swings  it  vio- 
lently around  till  its  neck  is  broken.  As  I  rode  up  he 
deposited  the  great  bird  on  my  horse,  remounted,  and  rushed 
in  pursuit  of  another.  That  was  killed  and  also  placed  in 
my  keeping,  making  me  a  kind  of  store-ship.  Others  pur- 
sue the  guanaco  with  equal  success,  till  they  are  satisfied 
with  their  booty.  We  ride  up  to  a  convenient  thicket,  a 
fire  is  lighted,  a  portion  of  the  prey  is  cooked  and  eaten, 
the  remnants  of  the  feast  and  the  residue  of  the  game  are 
duly  packed  up,  and  the  whole  troop  is  under  march  for  tho 
oamp. 


114  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  chiuf's  oratory  —  A  oase  of  sickness  novelly  treated  —  The  captive 
commissioned  as  physician  to  the  chief — Dr.  Bourne's  first  and  last 
patient  —  Murder  —  Cannibalism — Another  assassination,  showing  the 
perils  of  medical  practice  among  savages  —  Sports  of  the  children  — 
Patagonian  farriery  —  Slender  success  in  the  chase  —  A  second  struggle 
for  life. 

THE  chief  occasionally  made  a  speech  to  his  subjects  from 
the  door  of  his  lodge,  wherein  he  invariably  inculcated  the 
duty  of  hunting  industriously  to  procure  meat,  and  a  due 
supply  of  grease,  for  their  families.  He  never  had  an 
auditor  in  sight,  for  his  faithful  lieges  considered  the 
speech  from  the  throne  a  decided  bore,  and,  if  one  happened 
to  be  passing,  he  was  sure  to  dodge  into  the  nearest  hut 
till  the  infliction  was  over ;  but  the  leathern  lungs  of  the 
orator  could  not  fail  to  make  him  audible  in  many  of  the 
wigwams.  In  length  his  performances  more  resembled  the 
official  addresses  of  our  republican  rulers  than  those  of  his 
royal  cousins .  of  Europe,  seldom  falling  short  of  a  full 
hour.  In  style,  they  came  nearer  the  proclamations  of  a 
crier.  He  would  proceed  in  a  monotonous  rumble  to  the 
end  of  a  sentence,  and  then  defy  contradiction  by  repeating 
several  times,  "  Comole !  comole  !  comole !  "  after  which  ho 
paused,  as  for  a  reply.  No  one  having  the  audacity  to 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  115 

take  up  his  challenge,  lie  would  go  on  croaking  the  same 
things  with  tedious  iteration.  After  listening  very  pa- 
tiently to  one  of  his  harangues,  I  inwardly  applauded  the 
taste  of  his  subjects  in  getting  as  far  as  possible  out  of  the 
reach  of  his  voice. 

One  forenoon,  as  I  was  beginning  to  feel  impatient  to 
move,  —  for  every  movement  seemed  to  fan  the  flickering 
hope  that  we  would  soon  reach  a  place  affording  some 
avenue  of  escape,  and  this  restlessness  always  made  camp- 
life  doubly  dismal,  — the  chief  informed  me  that  we  should 
decamp  that  day.  Preparations  had  commenced,  when  one 
of  his  daughters  came  in  with  a  child  crying  at  a  tem- 
pestuous rate.  The  version  which  she  gave  of  his  com- 
plaints arrested  the  marching  orders.  A  messenger  was 
forthwith  despatched  for  one  skilled  in  the  healing  art. 
The  physician  soon  arrived,  armed  with  two  small  packages 
rolled  up  in  pieces  of  skin,  about  a  foot  long  and  three  or 
four  inches  in  diameter,  which  I  took  to  be  his  medicine- 
chest.  He  walked  gravely  in,  laid  down  the  packages,  and 
squatted  beside  the  mother,  who  held  the  little  patient  in 
her  arms.  Whatever  his  ailment  might  have  been,  hia 
lungs  could  not  have  been  impaired,  for  he  was  roaring  like 
a  young  buffalo.  Not  a  word  was  spoken  for  some  time, 
the  doctor  all  the  while  looking  him  very  steadily  in  the 
eye.  Then  came  a  sudden  calm,  importing  that  the  little 
fellow  experienced  some  relief,  or,  more  probably,  that  he 
was  exhausted.  The  doctor  ordered  an  application,  —  not 
of  hot  water,  according  to  the  prescription  of  Sangrado, 
but  of  a  mortar  made  of  clay.  The  clay  was  brought,  the 
anxious  mother  worked  it  over  with  her  two  hands,  spitting 
upon  it  to  g've  it  the  requisite  moisture,  and  having  re- 


116  THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

* 

duced  it  to  the  consistency  of  thick  paint,  bedaubed  the 
little  fellow  from  head  to  foot,  giving  him  a  decidedly 
original  appearance.  He  evidently  took  umbrage  at  this 
unction,  and  discoursed  in  his  shrillest  tones  till  he  was 
fairly  out  of  breath.  The  medicine-chests  were  opened, 
but,  instead  of  medicinal  herbs,  disclosed  only  a  bunch  of 
ostrich's  sinews  and  a  rattle  eight  or  ten  inches  long.  The 
physician  ^mmenced  fingering  the  strings,  and  muttering 
almost  inaudibly.  This  lasted  four  or  five  minutes,  at  the 
.expiration  of  which  he  seized  his  rattle,  and  clattered  away 
furiously  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  resumed  his  place  by  his 
patient,  eying  him  intently  as  before.  He  then  turned 
with  an  air  of  importance  to  the  chief,  who  had  been 
crouching  cross-legged  on  his  couch,  leaning  forward,  with 
his  arms  tightly  folded  on  his  breast,  and  watching  anx- 
iously the  progress  of  the  treatment.  The  man  of  skill 
broke  silence  :  "  I  think  he  is  better  ;  don't  you  ?  "  The 
chief  nodded,  and  grunted  assent.  The  same  appeal  was 
made  to  the  mother,  and  received  a  like  response.'  Another 
plastering  was  ordered,  another  burst  of  melody  followed 
the  application,  the  mysterious  strings  were  again  fingered, 
duly  followed  by  the  rattle.  The  parent  and  grandparent 
once  more  assented  to  the  leech  that  the  child  was  better. 
The  chief  took  out  a  piece  of  tobacco,  and  cut  off  enough 
for  about  two  pipefuls,  which  was  tendered  and  gratefully 
accepted  as  a  professional  fee.  The  strings  were  tied  up 
and  replaced  in  their  proper  receptacle,  and  the  rattle  was 
shaken  with  hearty  good  will,  whether  by  way  of  finale  to 
the  cure,  or  as  a  note  of  gratitude  for  the  fee,  or  of  triumph 
for  success,  could  not  easily  be  guessed.  But  the  prac- 
titioner had  scarcely  evacuated  the  lodge,  before  his  patient 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  ^  117 

* 

broke  out  more  vociferously  than  ever  ;  which  I  thought 
would  somewhat  shake  the  faith  of  his  guardians  in  the 
treatment  he  had  received.  But  no ;  their  confidence  in 
their  medical  adviser  was  not  to  be  blown  away  by  a 
breath,  or  even  a  tempest.  They  evidently  regarded  him 
as  nearly  infallible.  His  remedies  were  obviously  aimed 
more  at  the  imaginations  of  his  spectators  than  at  the  body 
of  his  patient,  but  it  was  no  concern  of  mine.  Patients 
among  us  have  to  endure  more  disagreeable  applications 
than  wet  clay.  The  noisy  brat  became  quiet,  to  our  great 
relief.  He  shortly  appeared  to  be  quite  well,  and  con- 
tinued to  thrive  for  some  time,  as  I  had  opportunity  to 
witness. 

The  tribe  went  ahead  with  alacrity,  to  make  up  for  the 
loss  of  time  this  sickness  occasioned.  We  moved  off  an- 
other day's  journey  towards  nowhere  in  particular,  and 
settled  there  at  night.  Then  ensued  another  season  of  camp 
life,  feasting  and  fasting,  gambling  and  quarrelling,  and 
venting  superfluous  wrath  in  an  abundance  of  "  Cashuran 
cashaly's."  The  chief  was  slightly  indisposed,  and  I 
amused  him  with  a  description  of  the  manner  in  which  our 
physicians  count  the  pulse  of  their  patients.  He  listened 
with  considerable  interest,  and  sat  thoughtfully  ruminating 
on  the  matter.  He  came  to  an  unexpected  and  alarming 
conclusion  ;  putting  this  and  my  story  of  the  opodeldoc  to- 
gether, he  made  up  his  mind  that  I  was  a  physician  myself! 
I  protested  against  this  inference,  fearing  that  no  good 
would  come  of  the  responsibilities  he  was  inclined  to  im- 
pose on  me.  But  the  disclaimer  was  useless,  —  he  stuck  to 
the  opinion ;  and  in  no  long  time  it  was  understood  through 
all  the  tribe  that  I  was  a  distinguished  doctor. 


118  fc  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA 

Now,  it  came  to  pass,  at  this  critical  turn  of  affairs,  that 
a  certain  widow,  of  pretty  ripe  years  for  a  Patagonian,  was 
taken  suddenly  ill.  Her  husband  had  been  murdered  many 
years  before  by  ore  of  the  tribe.  She  was  possessed  of 
several  horses,  and,  in  virtue  of  this  wealth,  held  an  aristo- 
cratic position  in  society.  A  messenger  brought  the  tidings 
to  the  chief,  who  ordered  me  forthwith  to  set  the  watch, 
and  go  with  him  to  her  residence.  I  again  assured  him  I 
knew  nothing  of  sickness  or  medicine.  He  told  me  he  knew 
better,  and  bade  me  come  along  without  delay.  There  was 
no  resisting  his  will,  and  I  armed  myself  accordingly  with 
the  "  ticking  machine,"  and  followed  my  master  on  my  first 
professional  visit.  On  approaching  the  widow's  lodge,  our 
•ears  were  greeted  with  a  hideous  clamor,  which  momentarily 
increased  as  we  neared  the  spot.  A  great  crowd  of  In- 
dians, of  both  sexes,  surrounded  the  wigwam,  severally  and 
collectively  making  the  most  villanous  noise  ever  heard. 
The  crowd  was  dense,  both  within  and  without,  but  gave 
way  for  the  chief  and  the  great  foreign  physician  to  enter. 
The  first  order  I  gave  was  to  stop  their  singing,  whereat 
there  was  a  silence  so  blank  that  the  fall  of  a  pin  would 
have  been  audible,  —  that  is,  if  there  had  been  a  floor  for  it 
to  fall  upon.  With  what  dignity  I  could  command,  I 
walked  up  to  my  patient.  There  she  lay,  crouched  on  a 
bit  of  horse's  skin,  so  withered,  shrivelled  and  contracted, 
that  it  seemed  as  if  a  bushel-basket  might  have  covered 
her,  bed  and  all.  I  knelt  by  her  side,  drew  forth  the 
watch,  grasped  her  by  the  wrist,  and  felt  for  her  pulse. 
But,  to  my  surprise.  I  could  not  feel  it.  I  fussed  and 
fumbled  a  long  time,  and  finally  arrived  at  the  mortifying 
Conclusion  that  I  way  so  gnorant  as  not  to  know  the 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  119 

position  of  the  artery  !  The  patient  was  frightened  at  so 
unprecedented  a  proceeding ;  but  I  succeeded  in  quieting 
her  fears,  though  not,  alas  !  in  counting  her  pulse.  How- 
ever, it  occurred  to  me  that  it  was  all  one  whether  I  did 
or  not ;  so,  keeping  up  an  imperturbable  gravity  becoming 
my  office,  I  continued  for  some  time  to  look  wisely  at  the 
watch,  holding  her  wrist  in  profound  silence.  When  I 
judged  that  a  due  impression  had  been  produced  on  the 
awe-stricken  spectators,  I  ventured  to  prescribe,  not  a  clay 
plaster,  for  the  patient  was  dirty  enough,  in  all  conscience ; 
nor  yet  any  compound  of  drugs,  for  I  had  none  to  ad- 
minister ;  and  as  to  roots  and  herbs,  I  durst  not  inflict 
upon  her  stomach  substances  of  unknown  properties  ;  but, 
after  a  little  thought,  I  ordered  some  water  heated  blood- 
warm,  and  the  patient  to  be  washed,  and  thoroughly 
scrubbed,  from  head  to  foot.  This,  I  thought,  met  the  most 
obvious  indications  of  her  case,  as  I  doubt  not  a  whole 
college  of  physicians,  upon  a  superficial  view,  would  have 
unanimously  agreed.  There  could  not  have  been  a  doubt 
as  to  the  novelty  of  the  prescription ;  the  respectable 
relict,  it  is  safe  to  say,  had  never  been  washed  so  thor- 
oughly from  infancy  to  that  hour.  Minute  directions 
were  given  for  the  bath,  that  the  scrubbing  should  be  par- 
ticularly smart  and  thorough.  She  was  furthermore  put 
upon  a  strict  diet,  excluding  grease  and  all  such  luxuries, 
and  we  slowly  retired  from  the  sick  room. 

My  solemnity  was  not  affected,  —  far  from  it.  Promotion 
from  barber  and  showman  to  the  dignity  of  physician  to 
the  chief,  was  too  dangerous  to  be  lightly  considered.  In 
fact,  anxiety  drove  sleep  from  my  eyes,  and  I  fervently 
prayed  for  the  recovery  of  the  widow ;  fearing,  from  what 


120  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

I  knew  of  the  superstitions  of  the  savages,  that  in  case  of 
her  death  I  should  be  held  responsible.  In  this  particular 
case,  as  very  soon  appeared,  I  misjudged ;  but  of  the 
general  principle  I  had  startling  confirmation. 

The  widow  was  better,  —  my  prescription  worked  to  a 
charm,  —  but  her  days  were  shortened.  Late  one  night, 
after  we  had  all  retired  to  rest,  a  ferocious-looking  rascal 
came  into  the  chief's  lodge ;  he  muttered  a  few  words  to 
the  chief,  who  arose,  and  went  with  him  to  the  front  of  tne 
wigwam.  They  conversed  in  a  low  tone  several  minutes, 
and  separated,  apparently  with  mutual  satisfaction.  I 
sounded  the  chief  cautiously  in  reference  to  the  matter  in 
hand.  Calmly,  and  without  reserve,  as  if  it  were  a  very 
ordinary  transaction,  he  said  that  the  savages  wished  to 
kill  the  widow,  in  order  to  possess  themselves  of  her  horses, 
which  they  wanted  to  eat.  1  asked  no  further  questions, 
being  fully  satisfied  that  he  connived  at  the  dark  deed, 
which  was  consummated  without  delay.  Before  this  tragic 
result,  I  had  taken  pains  to  disabuse  the  mind  of  the  chief 
as  to  my  supposed  medical  skill,  and  was  able  to  relieve 
myself  of  the  dangerous  and  burdensome  honor. 

Strange  flesh  was  eaten  by  the  Indians  about  this  time ; 
I  was  told  it  was  lion-meat,  but  was  not  invited  to  partake 
of  it.  The  same  thing  was  observed  several  times;  at 
times,  too,  when  I  was  positive  they  had  killed  no  wild 
animals  without  my  knowledge,  or  which  were  not  disposed 
of  openly.  The  nature  of  my  suspicions  may  be  easily 
conjectured ;  yet  I  made  no  inquiries,  in  even  the  most 
casual  manner,  as  to  their  disposition  of  their  dead.  It 
was  painful  to  think  of  the  atrocities,  that  were  but  too 
profcably  shrouded  under  the  mystery  they  cast  over  these 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  .       121 

transactions.  On  one  occasion,  however,  a  young  Indian, 
who  could  speak  a  few  words  of  Spanish  and  English,  told 
me  that  they  had  killed  and  eaten  three  men.  Whether 
he  meant  to  have  me  understand  this  as  a  singular  case,  or 
as  a  common  action  of  the  tribe,  I  do  not  know ;  I  made 
no  inquiries  of  him.  In  fact,  the  statement  was  volun- 
teered by  him ;  and  so  painful  was  the  subject,  that  I  left 
him  abruptly,  in  the  middle  of  a  sentence. 

We  again  moved  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  taking 
a  goodly  quantity  of  game  on  the  route,  and  settled  in  a 
wretched,  marshy  spot.  The  wind  was  high,  and  made  the 
tents  quiver  like  a  ship  in  a  gale ;  a  storm  set  in,  beating 
through  the  roofs,  drenching  and  chilling  me  through  all 
the  night.  On  the  evening  of  the  second  day  of  our  en- 
campment here,  an  incident  occurred  which  fearfully  con- 
firmed the  wisdom  of  my  decision  to  renounce  all  title  to 
medical  skill.  As  I  was  seated  by  the  dying  embers  of  a 
little  fire,  surrounded  by  our  motley  household,  and  tug- 
ging manfully  at  a  bit  of  half-raw  meat,  which  constituted 
my  evening  meal,  while  a  large  piece  was  in  process  of 
cooking  over  the  fire,  we  were  suddenly  startled  by  a  cry 
of  distress,  followed  by  the  distinct  alarm  of  murder.  The 
chief  drew  back  to  the  rear  of  his  lodge,  took  down  his 
cutlass,  and  ordered  me  back  from  the  fire,  which  was  at 
once  extinguished  by  two  of  his  squaws,  while  the  other 
two  ran  to  the  door,  and  set  up  a  loud,  lamentable  wailing. 
All  the  women  throughout  the  camp  were,  in  like  manner, 
giving  their  voices  to  the  air,  and  "  making  night  hideous ;  " 

and  not  a  male  Indian  ventured  to  show  his  head  for  an 

• 

hour  or  more.  It  was  to  me  an  houi  of  fearful  suspense, 
the  agony  of  which  I  cannot  describe.  At  last  a  man  came 


122  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

and  told  the  chief  that  a  doctor  had  been  murdered.  He 
had  visited  a  woman  professionally,  and  treated  her  case 
with  charms  and  spells,  but  his  prescriptions  effected  no 
satisfactory  result ;  and  her  husband  went  in  a  rage  to  his 
lodge,  and  stabbed  him  with  repeated  blows,  to  make  the 
work  of  death  more  sure.  It  was  a  singular  circumstance, 
that  men  capable  of  deliberate  murder,  and  who  had  so 
recently,  with  the  tacit  or  open  sanction  of  the  chief, 
strangled  a  woman  for  her  horses,  should  have  shown  so 
much  alarm  at  the  cry  of  murder  on  this  occasion.  The 
victim  was  an  enormously  fat  man,  weighing,  I  should 
judge,  nearly  four  hundred  pounds.  A  horrible  sight  pre- 
sented itself  the  next  morning,  on  going  out  of  our  hut ; 
the  snow  around  the  doctor's  lodge  was  saturated  with  his 
blood.  I  drew  back  from  the  sickening  spectacle,  unable 
to  look  upon  it  with  composure.  Beyond  their  exhibition 
of  stupid  terror  in  the  night,  no  notice  was"  taken  of  the 
act;  and  about  noon  the  camp  broke  up.  We  travelled 
till  night,  meeting  with  no  success  in  the  chase,  and  en- 
camped on  an  extensive  plain,  near  a  good  spring  of 
water. 

It  was  an  occasional  diversion  to  watch  the  children  at 
their  sports,  of  which  a  favorite  one  was  throwing  os- 
triches' feet,  with  the  sinews  of  the  legs  attached.  The 
toes  are  cut  off,  and  a  pair  of  the  feet  are  tied  together, 
with  a  piece  of  sinew  about  a  yard  long.  The  children 
begin  to  practise  the  sport  as  soon  as  they  are  able  to 
walk,  and  will  continue  the  amusement  all  day  ;  one  boy 
throwing  them  into  the  air,  and  others  throwing  and  hit- 
ting them  as  they  fly,  therein  serving  an  apprenticeship 
to  the  grand  manly  accomplishment  of  hurling  the  bolas. 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  123 

Young  Cohanaco,  the  chief's  youngest  son,  appeared  to 
excel  all  others ;  he  was  looked  upon  as  a  remarkably 
smart  and  very  active  lad;  and,  though  ho  was  six  or 
eight  years  old,  was  not  yet  weaned  !  All  the  tribe  fondled 
and  caressed  him ;  he  would  practise  with  the  boys,  often 
without  any  covering  to  his  back,  till  excited  and  almost 
exhausted;  then  he  would  run  into  the  lodge,  take  re- 
freshment at  his  mother's  breast,  and  speedily  return  to 
his  sport. 

All  this  time  HollaTid  was  not  forgotten,  but  the  chief 
and  his  lieges  were  continually  reminded  of  the  urgent 
reasons  for  taking  me  there  without  delay;  the  presents 
which  could  only  be  obtained  there,  the  fearful  conse- 
quences of  suffering  me  to  come  to  harm,  the  great  ships 
with  the  big  guns,  &c.  &c.,  that  would  assuredly  avenge 
me  upon  the  whole  tribe,  —  with  what  effect,  beyond  allay- 
ing present  irritations  and  discontents  that  threatened  me, 
it  was  impossible  to  determine. 

A  novel  sample  of  farriery  offered,  itself  to  my  observ- 
ation one  day,  while  hunting  with  the  chief;  my  old 
horse,  on  a  sudden,  began  to  hobble,  and  very  nearly  gave 
out.  I  watched  him  some  time,  and  jolted  on,  suffering 
somewhat  from  his  uneven  movements,  but  could  not  dis- 
cern the  occasion  of  the  difficulty.  On  dismounting  and 
examining  his  feet,  nothing  serious  was  perceptible,  except 
that  the  hoofs  were  worse  for  wear,  and  broomed  up  a 
little.  I  remounted,  and  gave  the  poor  creature  a  smart 
drubbing,  to  overtake  his  owner,  if  possible,  and  consult 
him  on  the  case,  which  was  one  wherein  I  was  content  to 
defer  to  his  wiser  judgment.  Sufficient  steam  was  raised 
to  bring  us  abreast  of  the  chief,  who,  on  hearing  what  was 
11 


121  THE   CAPTIVE    TN   PATAGONIA. 

the  matter,  put  spurs  to  his  hcrse,  and  told  me  to  come  on 
—  "Bueno  caballo,  se  campo,  campo."  I  /riod  to  comply, 
but  it  was  hard  starting  the  beast,  though  I  used  up  consid- 
erable wood  to  that  end.  The  chief  having  got  far  in 
advance,  and  finding  me  desperately  in  arrears,  hove  to, 
and  waited  for  me.  I  toiled  on,  and  succeeded  in  working 
a  passage  to  his  position.  He  dismounted,  inspected  the 
horse's  feet,  and,  directing  me  to  wait  his  return,  rode  off. 
He  soon  reappeared  with  a  piece  of  guanaco-skin,  which  he 
tied  securely  about  the  hoof  of  the  lame  foot.  I  expressed 
some  surprise  at  this  method  of  shoeing  horses ;  but  he  said, 
"  Buenos  zapatos," —  good  shoes, —  and  the  event  confirmed 
his  words.  The  lameness  nearly  disappeared,  and  we  jogged 
on  together  without  any  further  trouble. 

While  at  this  camping-ground,  the  chief  one  morning 
arose  in  a  towering  passion  at  some  words  let  fall  by  one 
of  his  wives,  and  exhibited  another  sample  of  the  rigor  of. 
matrimonial  discipline,  very  similar  to  that  which  graced 
the  nuptials  of  his  daughter.  He  gave  her  a  tremendous 
beating,  which  seemed  enough  to  kill  her  outright ;  but  she 
took  it  very  calmly,  as  a  sort  of  necessary  evil  incident  to 
the  married  state. 

Once  more  on  the  move,  the  squaws  taking  charge  of  the 
furniture  and  baggage,  including  the  pappooses,  and  the 
men  riding  in  advance  as  usual,  to  chase  supplies  for  the 
larder.  Game  was  scarce ;  we  got  a  couple  of  ostriches  and 
a  skunk,  —  or  a  couple  of  skunks  and  an  ostrich,  I  forgei 
which,  and  it  makes  less  difference  to  the  reader  than  at  thj 
time  it  did  to  me.  We  cooked  and  lunched  on  the  ground 
and  turned  our  faces  homeward  with  the  scanty  remainder. 
The  women  were  busy  erecting  the  wigwams.  The  ground 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  125 

was  frozen,  and  a  large  iron  bolt,  doubtless  from  some 
wreck,  served  as  a  crowbar  to  dig  holes  for  the  stakes.  The 
encampment  was  on  a  hill-side,  near  a  low  swamp,  which 
furnished  abundance  of  water,  such  as  it  was. 

We  had  scarcely  settled  down,  and  I  was  dreading  the 
stagnant  monotony  of  camp  life,  when  dulness  was  dis- 
pelled in  a  most  unwelcome  manner.  Knots  of  Indians 
could  be  seen  in  murmuring  conversation,  whose  glances 
betrayed  the  bent  of  their  passions.  They  were  again  get- 
ting impatient  of  my  life,  and  caresses  and  flattery  were  of 
no  avail  to  stem  the  rising  tide.  On  the  evening  of  the 
third  day,  I  was  summoned  out  of  the  lodge  by  the  chief,  and 
followed  him  in  silence,  with  a  trembling  presentiment  of 
evil.  He  led  me  to  a  spot  where  twenty  or  thirty  leading 
spirits  in  the  tribe  sat  ranged  in  a  circle,  —  the  fatal  ring 
was  once  more  set  to  ensnare  me !  Once  I  had  escaped. 
Was  it  possible  to  effect  a  second  escape  ?  "  Everything 
said  no.  The  chances  Seemed  a  hundred  to  one  against  it, 
What  had  I  left  unsaid,  to  tempt  their  cupidity,  to  excite 
alarm,  to  make  them  value  my  safety  or  dread  the  effects 
of  harming  me  ?  I  could  think  of  nothing,  and  the  dismal 
prospect  benumbed  every  faculty  of  my  soul.  But,  as  I 
entered  the  ominous  circle,  an  access  of  fresh  strength,  the 
courage  of  desperation,  enabled  me  to  bear  up  with  energy 
against  perplexity  and  fear ;  to  resolve  that  I  would  meet 
them  with  a  steadfast  eye  and  an  inflexible  mind,  —  a  force 
which,  though  springing  out  of  weakness,  should  prove 
stronger  than  their  utmost  malice. 

Having  seated  myself  near  the  chief,  the  consultation 
began  and  proceeded  much  as  before,  but  with  increased 
vehemence.  Their  demonstrations  were  alarming,  but,  to 


126  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

my  joy,  the  nhief  took  the  same  view  as  in  the  former  coun- 
cil. Would  he  be  able  to  restrain  their  savage  tempers  ? 
His  power  was  great,  but  there  was  a  limit  to  its  effect,  and 
I  feared.  In  my  turn  I  sought  to  enforce  his  views,  by 
arraying  all  the  motives  invention  could  produce,  and  was 
able  to  perceive  that  they  had  some  weight.  Again  the 
matter  was  canvassed  around  the  ring.  There  was  a  hesi- 
tation, as  if  they  felt  suspicious  and  unsatisfied.  Then  they 
began  to  cross-examine  me ;  my  promises  were  not  explicit 
enough.  What  did  I  mean  to  give  them?  The  answer 
did  not  content  them;  they  wanted  more.  More  or  less 
made  no  difference  to  me,  and  I  gave  them  assurance  of  all 
the  good  things  they  craved,  when  we  should  arrive  at  Hol- 
land. Another  talk  followed,  and  brought  them  to  a  pretty 
unanimous  conclusion,  that  they  would  get  the  presents  first, 
and  decide  my  fate  afterwards;  —  a  "  squeeze-your-orange- 
and-throw-it-away  "  policy,  in  which  these  rascals  seemed 
to  be  remarkable  adepts. 

The  natives  had  no  idea  that  I  could  understand  their 
talk,  and  I  was  not  at  all  eager  to  display  my  acquisitions. 
In  fact,  though  unable  to  speak  their  jargon,  my  ear  had 
become  pretty  well  trained  to  interpret  it,  while  my  scraps 
of  half  Spanish  enabled  me,  without  suspicion,  to  hear, 
mark  and  digest,  much  of  their  conversation.  This  was,  in 
part,  acquired  in  teaching  some  of  them,  the  youth  espec- 
ially, to  speak  English  and  to  count,  —  a  pursuit  in  which 
[  engaged  partly  for  their  benefit,  and  partly  for  my  own. 
Besides  aiding  me  in  learning  their  language,  it  tended,  so 
far  as  it  diverted  their  attention,  to  keep  mischief  out  of 
Iheir  heads,  after  the  manner  in  which  constant  employment 
maintains  order  in  a  ship's  crew.  It  added  to  my  knowl- 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  127 

edge  of  their  character  and  ways  of  thinking,  so  that,  in 
dangerous  emergencies,  I  was  able  to  detect  the  first  symp- 
toms of  evil.  More  than  once  it  enabled  me  to  elude  or  to 
nip  in  the  bud  dangerous  conspiracies,  which,  if  they  had 
gone  further,  might  have  proved  fatal  to  me.  Circumspec- 
tion made  self-possession  more  easy.  I  will  confess  — 
though  the  narrative  may  have  made  confession  needless  — 
that  I  am  naturally  timid,  and  inclined  to  the  better  part  of 
valor.  Yet  somehow  —  God  helping  me  —  I  early  learned 
.0  hide  my  constitutional  timidity  under  a  show  of  fearless- 
ness, even  in  circumstances  of  great  peril.  More  than  once, 
when  a  savage  drew  his  knife  at  me,  have  I  looked  him  in 
the  eye  and  disarmed  him  by  a  laugh ;  perhaps  laying  hold 
of  the  instrument  of  death,  trying  its  edge  and  praising  its 
qualities,  till  its  owner  was  shamed  into  quiet.  One  piece 
of  English  that  tickled  the  chief  was  the  title  of  "  Old  Boy," 
with  which  (from  a  conviction  of  its  appropriateness)  I 
early  honored  him,  and  which  he  appeared  to  relish  as  much 
as  if  I  had  called  him  "  His  Majesty." 

The  council,  to  my  great  relief,  at  length  broke  up,  and  I 
returned  to  my  wretched  shelter.  The  chief  pointed  to  my 
bed,  and  bade  me  lie  down.  I  complied,  not  to  sleep,  but 
to  adore  the  Providence  that  had  twice  rescued  me  as  from 
the  very  jaws  of  death,  to  reflect  on  the  past  and  to  specu 
late  on  the  future.  The  excitement  of  the  evening  kept 
ma  wakeful,  and  the  night  wore  away  and  the  morning 
dawned,  without  sleep  for  a  moment  visiting  my  eyes. 
11* 


128  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

A  new  torture  —  Bloody  gossip  —  An  explosion  nearly  fatal  —  Pica  of  in- 
sanity—  Recocciliation —  River  Santa  Cruz  —  Naval  architecture  — 
Original  mode  of  ferrying — Accident  —  Ominous  demonstrations  there- 
upon —  Perilous  superstition  —  Plans  of  escape  —  The  chief  fighting  hia 
battles  over  again  —  Prospects  brighten  —  A  blind  hint  to  naturalists. 

FROM  this  point  we  moved  again  in  a  north-westerly  di- 
rection, finding  game  more  plenty,  and  among  other  animals 
captured  a  species  of  fox,  the  first  I  had  seen  in  the  country. 
The  camping-ground  selected  was  a  waste  more  desolate 
than  had  yet  greeted  my  sight,  even  in  Patagonia,  • —  a 
low  marsh,  surrounded  by  sand-hills  destitute  of  even  the 
semblance  or  vestige  of  vegetation,  past  or  present.  The 
horses  were  let  loose  to  solve  the  problem  of  existence  as 
they  could,  while  my  landladies,  with  their  canine  assist- 
ants, served  up  a  skunk  and  two  ostrich-legs  for  supper. 
I  thought  myself  fortunate  at  getting  so  ample  a  meal,  hav- 
ing been  on  short  allowance  the  preceding  day. 

Here  a  new  torture  was  inflicted.  There  had  been  abun- 
dance of  voluble  hatred  against  me,  as  I  had  too  good 
reason  to  know,  but  it  was  around  and  behind  me.  Now, 
presuming,  doubtless,  on  my  ignorance  of  their  language, 
they  cane  to  utter  their  bloodthirsty  thoughts  in  my 
presence.  At  night,  before  retiring,  the  women  began  to 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  129 

talk  against  me,  as  usual ;  which  never  gave  me  much  un- 
easiness, female  opinion  not  having  much  force,  I  suspected, 
in  affairs  of  state.  Two  of  them  had  always  appeared  to 
bear  me  a  mortal  grudge,  for  what  cause  I  could  not  con- 
jecture, unless  they  thought  I  took  up  too  much  of  his 
highness'  time,  or  exerted  too  much  influence  over  him. 
But,  on  the  present  occasion,  the  conference  was  enlarged 
by  the  entrance  of  two  or  three  visitors,  whose  only  errand 
seemed  to  be  to  give  the  chief  gratuitous  advice  touching 
the  disposal  of  my  person.  Though  perfectly  comprehend- 
ing the  drift  of  their  remarks,  1  looked  as  stupid  as  possible, 
and  bent  myself  to  caress  and  flatter  the  old  fellow  with 
more  than  common  servility;  —  patting  his  breast,  telling 
him  what  a  big,  good  heart  it  contained,  calling  him  my 
compadre,  and  myself  his  child,  his  piconine,  his  muchacJio. 
So  deep  was  my  abasement !  To  talk  of  the  goodness  of  a 
heart  beating  with  cruelty  and  black  with  crime  !  To  call 
that  black,  greasy,  depraved  monster  my  father,  and  my- 
self his  dutiful  and  affectionate  son  !  It  is  humiliating  to 
speak  of  this  ;  —  what,  let  the  reader  imagine,  must  it  have 
been  to  feel  it !  The  bruised  reed  was  well-nigh  broken. 
The  courage  that  sustained  me  in  sharp  trials  was  frittered 
away  piecemeal  by  incessant  irritation.  Hope,  that  kept 
me  from  fainting  in  the  fatal  ring,  vanished  with  the  occa- 
sion that  invoked  it,  and  a  bitter,  consuming  despair 
hovered  over  me.  Then  came  dark  and  distracting  thoughts 
of  home,  now  more  distant  than  ever,  to  stab  my  heart, 
already  faint  and  bleeding.  Again  was  sleep  driven  from 
me,  but  the  night  passed,  and  the  blessed  light  of  day  stole 
upon  me,  as  with  a  benediction  from  heaven. 

I  arose  and  rushed  into  the  open  air  to  warm  myself  by 


130  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

exercise,  and  when  the  fire  was  lighted  comforted  myself 
by  its  kindly  heat,  and  recovered  a  measure  of  buoyancy. 
But  the  day  was  wearily  spent,  and  night  brought  the  mer- 
ciless gossips  once  more  into  the  lodge.  The  two  squaws 
led  off  with  words  of  the  most  fiendish  hate,  urging  that  I 
should  be  summarily  despatched,  and  gloating  over  an- 
ticipated vengeance.  Tempestuous  thoughts  and  sleepless 
hours  had  weakened  me  in  body  and  mind.  The  fall  of 
successive  drops  of  water  will  madden  the  stoutest  brain, 
and  the  drop  too  much  had  now  lighted  on  my  head.  I 
was  frenzied ;  strong  passions,  hitherto  held  in  check,  over- 
mastered me.  I  rose,  threw  my  cap  violently  on  the 
ground,  stamped,  gnashed  my  teeth,  and  cursed  without 
restraint.  I  shook  my  fists  at  them,  defied  their  malice, 
and  raved  for  several  minutes,  reckless  of  consequences. 
What  was  life  to  me  ?  They  were  killing  me  by  inches. 
Let  them  do  their  worst,  no  matter  how  soon.  The  chief 
was  at  first  startled  at  such  an  explosion,  and  sat  looking 
fixedly  upon  me,  with  a  dark  and  clouded  brow.  It  was 
fortunate  that  my  rage  was  too  impetuous  to  be  contained 
within  the  bounds  of  my  Indian-Spanish  vocabulary,  but 
breathed  itself  in  good  strong  Saxon,  so  that  speech  could 
not  betray  me.  For  no  sooner  had  the  internal  pressure 
been  measurably  relieved,  than  a  sudden  consciousness  of 
error  —  fatal  error  —  smote  me  with  a  new  dread.  What 
had  I  done  ?  Where  were  my  wits,  that  I  should  thus  toss 
away  life  to  gratify  impotent  anger  ?  If  my  chance  of  life 
was  worth  little  to  myself,  was  it  worth  nothing  to  others, 
that  I  should  so  trifle  with  it  ?  With  returning  sanity  of 
feeling  came  also  a  hint  of  the  way  to  repair  my  wrong. 
Without  waiting  for  any  questions  or  wordy  explanations, 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  131 

1  looked  pi  3C  islj  at  the  chief,  pointed  to  my  head,  and 
assured  hin.  it  was  disordered.  I  could  not  help  my 
actions.  I  was  sorry  to  make  such  an  exhibition  of  myself, 
but  it  was  all  my  poor  head ;  and  holding  on  to  the  poor 
head  with  one  hand,  I  beat  it  reproachfully  with  the  other, 
at  the  same  time  giving  vent  to  some  unearthly  noises 
by  way  of  corroboration.  The  old  fellow  looked  rather 
dubiously  at  this  change  of  scene,  and  asked  if  it  was  at 
them  I  shook  my  fists  ?  —  At  them -?j-  No,  no  !  they  did  not 
understand  me.  My  heart  was  good,  like  his,  but  it  was 
all  my  head,  my  poor  naughty  cabezn.  Another  thump  on 
my  cranium,  and  a  second  edition  of  the  howl,  proved  suffi- 
cient. The  plea  of  insanity  was  admitted ;  he  expressed 
himself  satisfied,  and  explained  the  incident  to  the  amazed 
spectators.  I  drew  a  long  breath  with  a  returning  sense 
of  security,  scarcely  crediting  the  success  of  the  artifice, 
and  almost  doubting  whether  the  whole  scene  were  not  a 
dream.  Heal  or  unreal,  it  was  over,  and  things  were  ap- 
parently on  their  former  footing.  Only  my  feminine  foes 
would  not  be  convinced,  and  added  this  crowning  indis- 
cretion to  the  list  of  my  offences. 

We  moved  the  next  day  in  a  northerly  direction,  and 
struck  the  river  Santa  Cruz,  encamping  about  an  eighth  of 
a  mile  from  its  marshy  banks,  which,  at  this  point,  were 
bent  in  a  broad,  horse-shoe  curve.  We  were  surrounded, 
except  on  the  river  side,  by  high  abrupt  sand-banks,  covered 
in  part  by  underbrush  of  a  stunted  growth.  The  river  was 
narrow,  but  deep  and  rapid.  The  Indians  said  it  was  the 
Santa  Ca  -Z.  and  that  it  led  directly  to  "  Holland  ;  "  but 
their  lies  ahout  that  same  Dutch  land  had  long  since  de- 
stroyed aL  faith  in  their  words.  That  it  was  the  Santa 


132  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

Cruz  was  p:obable,  for  I  knew  of  no  other  river  in  these 
parts;  —  we  nad  passed  Corey  Inlet  and  the  Gallegos. 
The  rest  of  the  story  I  could  only  try  to  credit.  I  tried  to 
urge  them  on,  but  they  were  not  to  be  hurried.  Some  of 
them  grumbled  that  I  had  no  intention  of  giving  them 
anything,  but  meant  to  slip  from  them  the  first  opportunity. 
No  wonder  they  thought  so;  they  certainly  had  not  laid 
me  under  very  great  obligations  of  gratitude.  What  on 
earth  they  wanted  of  me,  unless  to  fat  and  eat  me,  was 
past  conjecture ;  and  my  fare  had  not  been  of  a  nature  to 
induce  corpulence,  so  that  this  supposition  was  not  trust- 
worthy. They  said  they  wanted  me  to  help  steal  horses. 
They  were  bound  for  the  Rio  Negro,  where  they  meant  to 
steal  seven  hundred  horses,  of  which  number  I  was  to  get 
two.  Certainly,  I  told  them,  it  would  be  just  the  thing ; 
and  that  was  a  most  excellent  reason  for  going  to  "  Hol- 
land." They  would  find  me  a  rare  thief;  but,  however  it 
might  be  with  them,  I  could  not  steal  without  a  good  stock 
of  rum  and  tobacco.  Was  I  insincere  in  all  this  ?  The 
reader  may  smile  or  may  frown,  but  it  was  my  purpose,  if 
I  failed  to  escape  by  way  of  "  Holland,"  to  humor  them  to 
the  top  of  their  bent ;  to  ride,  hunt,  and  even  steal  my  way 
into  their  confidence ;  —  any  way  to  insure  present  safety, 
and  keep  an  eye  open  for  future  opportunities. 

Three  or  four  days  were  passed  in  suspense,  which  was 
at  last  terminated  by  taking  our  line  of  march  down  the 
river.  We  halted  at  noon,  at  a  point  where  he  banks 
sloped  gently  to  the  water's  edge,  on  «ither  side  of  the 
deep  and  narrow  channel.  Active  preparations'were  here 
commenced  for  crossing.  Part  of  the  horses  were  driven 
across  the  river,  wh  Jat  a  portion  of  the  tribe  were  occupied 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  133 

in  building  boats  to  ferry  their  families  and  goods  across. 
Their  boats  are  constructed  after  a  simple  fashion.  A 
quantity  of  bushes  are  cut  and  dragged  down  to  the  margin 
of  the  water.  They  take  four  tent-stakes,  and  lay  them  so 
as  to  enclose  an  area  eight  feet  square,  lashing  them  firmly 
together  at  the  four  corners.  Four  Indians  then  raise  the 
stakes  from  the  ground,  while  others  place  the  skin  cover- 
ing of  the  tent  over  the  frame,  allowing  it  to  sag  down 
three  or  four  feet.  The  edges  of  the  skin  are  brought  over 
the  stakes,  and  fastened  on  the  inside.  The  bushes,  made 
ready  for  the  purpose,  are  placed  within,  tops  downward, 
round  the  entire  circumference,  and  secured  to  the  stakes, 
iill  the  boat  is  completely  timbered  up.  The  bushes  keep 
ihe  skin  distended,  and  give  to  the  vessel  an  oval  shape,  so 
that,  though  square  at  the  top,  it  bears  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  a  large  iron  pot.  Its  length  and  its  breadth  of 
beam  are  of  course  equal.  When  completed,  it  is  firmly 
lashed  from  stem  to  sternpost,  and  from  side  to  side,  with  a 
lariat,  or  green  hide  rope,  forty  feet  long,  to  keep  it  from 
spreading  or  racking.  I  had  no  hand  in  modelling  this 
witch  of  the  wave,  but,  like  an  apprentice,  did  as  I  was 
ordered  in  forwarding  the  structure,  and,  when  nothing  else 
was  required,  "  held  on  to  the  slack."  It  was  at  last  com- 
pleted, like  the  temple  of  Solomon,  without  the  sound  of 
axe  or  hammer ;  neither  bolts,  tr'enails  nor  caulking-iron, 
were  required.  We  carried  the  barge  down,  and  launched 
iier  in  the  stream.  Two  paddles  were  made  by  lashing  two 
bladebones  of  the  guanaco  to  sticks.  Squaws,  pappooses 
and  baggage,  were  stowed  away,  till  the  boat  was  laden  to 
the  water's  edge.  I  was  directed  to  take  passage  with  the 
family  and  household  effects  of  the  chief,  and  seated  myself 


134  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

in  the  centre  of  the  closely-packed  craft.  One  end  of  a 
lariat  was  fastened  to  the  boat,  and  the  other  tied  to  the 
tail  of  a  horse.  A  savage  mounted,  with  one  rein  attached 
to  the  wooden  bit  on  the  up-stream  side.  Two  others  took 
the  oars,  one  on  each  side,  and  a  squaw  was  stationed  on 
the  top-gallant  forecastle  for  the  purpose  of  singing,  to 
insure  good  luck.  All  is  ready.  The  old  horse  wades  till 
the  depth  of  water  compels  him  to  swim,  and  the  boat  is 
pushed  off.  The  rider  floats  on  the  horse's  back,  kicking 
the  water  with  his  feet,  holding  the  rein  in  one  hand,  and 
grasping  the  mane  with  the  other.  "  Chew !  chew  !  "  he 
shouts,  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  The  black  swan  in  the 
forecastle  opens  her  capacious  mouth  and  sings,  "  Yek  yah, 
youri  miti !  yek  yah  youri  miti !  "  The  two  oarsmen  dig 
away  with  might  and  main,  while  the  younger  fry  swell  the 
chorus  with  a  "  Yah !  yah !  yah  !  "  The  boat  brings  some 
heavy  lurches  to  the  windward,  then  yaws  off  to  leeward ; 
all  owing  to  those  lubberly  oarsmen  not  meeting  her  with 
the  helm  in  season.  At  length,  after  innumerable  shifting^ 
we  reached  the  opposite  shore,  and  waded  up  on  dry  land. 

Several  boats  were  constructed  after  the  same  unique 
model,  and  succeeded  in  crossing  safely.  Some  of  the 
horses,  being  better  adapted  to  towing,  were  swam  back  to 
repeat  the  process,  and  our  craft  returned  for  a  second 
freight.  I  watched  the  proceedings  from  the  bank  with 
intense  interest,  speculating  on  the  probable  consequences 
of  an  accident  to  any  of  the  fleet.  Such  was  their  super- 
stition, that,  in  the  event  of  any  ill  befalling  them,  they 
would  be  quite  likely  to  ascribe  it  to  me,  and  serve  me 
worse  than  Jonah  was  treated  by  his  shipmates.  The 
swiftness  of  the  current,  and  the  rudeness  of  their  navi- 


• 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  137 

gallon,  made  them  so  liable  to  mischief,  that  it  seemel  wise 
10  prepare  for  it;  and  I  at  once  began  ingratiating  myself 
with  two  of  the  worst  fellows  in  the  whole  tribe,  by  pro- 
fessions of  special  good  will  and  admiration  for  them,  and 
confidential  hints  that  they  would  share  more  liberally  in 
the  bounties  of  "  Holland "  than  any  of  their  fellows. 
Whilst  thus  engaged,  with  cautious  glances  across  the 
river,  to  make  sure  that  all  was  right,  I  perceived  that 
there  was  quite  a  commotion  among  the  people  below; 
some  were  springing  upon  their  horses,  —  others,  ready 
mounted,  were  dashing  furiously  down  the  bank.  On  look- 
ing some  distance  below,  a  boat  appeared  to  be  in  distress; 
the  lariat  that  bound  it  together  had  snapped  asunder,  and 
the  pressure  within,  and  the  strain  of  the  horse  without, 
had  broken  the  front  stake;  the  horse,  lelieved  of  his 
freight,  pulled  for  the  shore,  and  could  neither  be  coaxed 
nor  beaten  into  a  return  to  duty.  The  horsemen  on  the 
banks  dashed  into  the  stream,  and  swam  for  the  wreck, 
which  contained,  among  other  passengers,  a  young  child. 
It  was  already  filled  with  water,  and  was  partially  turned 
on  her  side.  The  surface  of  the  river  was  dotted  with 
dark  forms,  struggling  with  the  mad  current ;  one  horse- 
man after  another  each  grasped  a  floating  object,  and 
made  for  the  shore.  The  craft  had  drifted  nearly  half  a 
mile,  and  nothing  could  be  made  out  very  distinctly.  The 
squaws,  on  first  perceiving  the  mischance,  watched  the 
wreck,  and  sung  in  a  loud  and  plaintive  strain,  all  the 
while  casting  unfriendly  glances  at  me,  and  gradually  ap- 
proaching the  place  where  I  stood.  My  apprehensions 
were  so  far  confirmed  by  this  movement,  that  I  i  bid  John 
(the  name  I  gave  one^f  my  present  particular  friends), 
12 


138  TB*1    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

as  he  loved  rum  and  tobacco,  and  expected  to  get  any,  not 
to  leave  me.  John  saw  at  a  glance  what  was  in  the  wind, 
and  appreciated  both  the  immediate  danger  and  tt ••;,  ulti- 
mate reward  of  averting  it ;  namely,  the  privilege  c  f  being 
gloriously  drunk  at  my  expense.  He  told  me  to  go  into 
his  hut,  and  pointed  me  to  the  furthest  corner;  where, 
I  being  duly  ensconced,  he  took  his  station,  cutlass  in  hand, 
directly  in  front  of  me.  The  singing  grew  louder,  and  the 
voices  more  numerous  about  the  door ;  the  song  was  their 
regular  powwow  strain,  which  invariably  preluded  the 
killing  of  a  horse.  The  Indians  began  to  enter  the  lodge, 
and  looked  unutterable  things  in  the  direction  where  I 
was  crouching ;  the  wigwam  was  soon  filled  with  them,  and 
they  were  beginning  to  crowd  towards  me,  when  old  John 
opened  upon  them,  and  told  them  they  ought  to  be  ashamed 
of  themselves,  to  come  in  there  in  that  manner ;  they  did 
not  even  know  what  had  happened,  —  they  did  not  know 
whether  any  lives  were  lost.  They  were  threatening  on 
account  of  the  death  of  a  child,  when,  for  aught  they 
knew,  the  chilol  was  alive ;  they  had  better  wait  patiently, 
till  they  knew  more  about  the  matter,  before  they  made 
any  further  uproar  about  it.  In  this  strain  he  parleyed 
with  them  for  some  time,  till  they  concluded  to  retire, 
uttering,  as  they  went,  the  most  horrible  sounds.  I  felt 
less  relief  from  their  absence  than  if  John  had  not,  by  im- 
plication, fully  assented  that  if  the  brat  was  drowned,  my 
life  should  answer  for  it.  News  soon  came  that  the 
children  were  all  F .ife,  but  that  the  boat  was  lost. 

An  instant  change  ensued :  the  fire  appeared  to  be 
quenched,  but  I  feared  it  mig.  t  break  out  at  any  moment 
afresh.  Knowing  their  treachery,  I  kept  a  pretty  sus- 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONDL  139 

picious  watch  on  their  movements ;  the  chief  soon  came 
jver  the  river,  hurried,  perhaps,  in  his  movements  by  the 
accident,  which  he  had  witnessed  from  the  opposite  shore. 
After  conferring  with  John,  and  giving  him  some  instruc- 
tions, and  seeing  that  all  was  right,  he  reembarked  for  the 
other  shore,  as  he  made  it  his  special  business  to  see  that 
all  were  passed  across  in  safety.  The  ferrying  ceased  as 
night  came  on ;  the  chief  was  likely  to  be  on  the  opposite 
side  all  night,  as  there  was  a  good  day's  work  yet  to  be 
done  before  the  whole  would  be  transported.  I  had  over- 
heard him  giving  special  orders  to  keep  a  good  look-out 
on  me  during  the  night.  I  felt,  however,  some  uneasiness 
in  his  absence ;  he  had  been  my  most  powerful  protector, 
having  twice,  at  least,  saved  me  from  imminent  death. 

I  now  began  to  revolve  in  my  mind  the  possibility  of 
escape ;  the  thought  suggested  itself  that  I  might  steal 
one  of  their  boats,  and  drift  down  the  stream.  I  was  long 
since  heartily  tired  of  captivity  ;  my  situation,  especially 
if  I  was  to  be  held  a  hostage  of  Providence  for  the  safe 
ferriage  of  the  tribe,  was  desperate.  But,  on  second 
thought,  I  did  not  know  that  this  was  certainly  the  Santa 
Cruz ;  if  it  was,  I  was  furthermore  ignorant  of  our  dis- 
tance from  the  sea.  I  knew  of  no  white  settlement  on  or 
near  the  river ;  none,  I  remembered,  was  laid  down  in 
the  chart ;  if  such  a  settlement  existed,  I  might  hope  to 
reach  it  in  a  boat,  but  a  voyage  in  such  a  craft  as  one  of 
these  would  be  as  hazardous  as  that  of  the  wise  men  of 
Gotham.  If  there  was  no  such  settlement,  and  "Holland" 
was  Patagouian  for  Utopia,  my  only  chance,  short  of  drift- 
ing in  my  leathern  sack  out  to  sea,  would  be  to  land  on 
some  island,  in  case  an  island  there  were ;  and  then  what 


140  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

should  I  live  on,  after  landing  ?  Berries  I  had  never  seen, 
except  once  or  twice.  Besides,  my  stolen  craft  could  not 
be  paddled,  —  the  Indians  had  too  good  ears  for  that ;  I 
mu?t  follow  the  channel  passively,  through  all  its  course, 
which  was  terribly  crooked,  while  its  rapidity  increased 
the  risk  that  the  ungainly  vehicle  would  be  disabled.  On 
the  whole,  it  was  so  doubtful  whether  I  could  reach  any 
particular  place,  or  escape  starvation  after  I  got  there, 
and  so  certain  that  failure  would  be  death,  the  project 
seemed  a  forlorn  hope.  But  then,  again,  it  was  not  more 
forlorn  than  my  present  situation ;  so  my  poor  mind 
vibrated  between  dangers,  —  the  danger  of  remaining  where 
I  was,  —  the  danger  that  I  should  escape  only  from  the 
frying-pan  into  the  fire.  At  last,  as  I  felt  the  frying-pan, 
and  only  feared  the  fire,  I  concluded  to  try. 

Crawling  as  noiselessly  as  possible  from  my  resting- 
place,  I  stole  softly  out,  and  made  for  the  river.  Alack ! 
in  calculating  the  chances,  I  had  not  once  thought  of  four- 
footed  enemies,  and  they  were  upon  me  before  I  was  half- 
way to  the  shore,  —  a  half-dozen  dogs,  barking  loud  enough 
to  wake  the  whole  encampment.  I  retreated  incontinently 
to  the  lodge,  and  succeeded  in  getting  quietly  into  my 
quarters  again,  not  without  some  inward  spasms.  It  was 
all  for  the  best,  no  doubt,  but  it  was  not,  just  then,  easy 
to  think  so,  or  possible  to  feel  so ;  and,  therefore,  after  a 
little  time,  I  once  more  emerged  from  the  lodge,  and  stole 
towards  the  river 'by  a  different  track,  hoping  to  elude 
those  infernal  dogs ;  but  they,  or  some  others,  were  on 
the  alsrt,  and  came  pell-mell  upon  my  rear,  barking  more 
uproariously  than  before.  I  cursed  the  dogs,  their  masters, 
and  my  own  folly,  and  gave  up  the  attempt. 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  141 

The  ferrying  recommenced  the  next  morning;  and  be- 
fore D  ght  the  whole  tribe  were  safely  landed,  with  their 
effects,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  and  their  wig  rams 
were  all  pitched.  We  were  short  of  provisions ;  but  this 
was  a  common  case,  and  I  was  accustomed  to  it.  I  got  an 
occasional  morsel  of  grease,  sufficient  to  keep  starvation 
at  bay;  but  illness,  with  bad  and  insufficient  food,  had 
greatly  emaciated  me,  till  I  was  a  spectacle  but  few  de- 
grees above  the  living  skeleton.  But  hope  was  still  in 
the  ascendant,  and  I  had  no  idea  of  lying  down  to  die  till 
I  was  quite  sure  my  time  had  come.  We  continued  our 
wanderings  the  next  day  in  a  westerly  direction,  slaying 
every  living  creature  that  came  within  reach,  from  a 
skunk  to  a  guanaco.  This  was  a  great  disappointment,  as 
I  hoped  we  should  go  down  the  river,  the  direction  in 
which  they  said  "  Holland  "  lay,  and  the  only  direction  in 
which  we  were  likely  to  strike  a  white  settlement,  if  any 
existed  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  But  my  remonstrances  on 
this  head  were  vain  ;  they  would  go  where  they  pleased, 
and  I  must  go  with  them.  Time  dragged  heavily ;  hours 
seemed  days,  and  days  weeks.  But  impatience  is  no 
virtue,  and  submission  was  imperative. 

The  country  hereabout  was  more  broken  and  mountain- 
ous than  any  we  had  before  traversed,  with  a  more  abun- 
dant growth  of  bushes,  and  some  clumps  of  stunted  trees 
here  and  there.  As  we  proceeded,  keeping  still  to  the 
north-west,  game  was  more  plenty.  We  came  to  two 
ponds,  or  small  lakes,  one  of  not  more  than  four  acres  in 
extent,  the  other  considerably  larger;  the  latter  was 
phallor,  at  least  near  the  shore,  as  some  ostriches  pursued 
12* 


142  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

by  the  Indians  ran  into  it,  and  their  pursue  s  waded  after, 
and  succeeded  in  capturing  them. 

At  one  time  I  observed  a  large  .scar  in  the  calf  of  the 
chief's  leg;  the  mark  of  a  wound  that  must  have  been 
inflicted  a  long  time  before,  as  it  was  completely  healed. 
Its  depression  was  so  great  as  to  indicate  a  very  severe 
cut,  unless  the  old  fellow  had  grown  uncommonly  fat  since 
he  received  it.  On  inquiring  the  cause  of  it,  he  said  it 
was  from  a  wound  inflicted  by  the  Alanagros,  a  tribe  in- 
habiting a  cour.try  to  the  northward.  The  name  he  gave 
them  signifies  t  le  blacks ;  and,  from  the  manner  in  which 
he  spoke  of  thim,  I  inferred  they  were  in  some  respects 
superior  to  the  Patagonians.  He  said  they  were  armed 
with  cutlasses,  and  very  long  knives,  —  had  tobacco,  and 
plenty  of  horses;  and  I  conjectured  that  they  might  have 
been  a  party  of  Spanish  Americans,  or  ,one  of  the  mixed 
races  of  Spanish  origin.  The  fight,  he  said,  arose  on  occa- 
sion of  his  tribe  being  on  a  horse-stealing  expedition  ;  they 
encamped  a  short  distance  off,  and  at  night  he  made  a 
descent  on  the  Alanagros,  killed  some  of  them,  and  plun- 
dered their  camp,  carrying  off  many  of  their  horses.  The 
plundered  tribe  rallied,  hotly  pursued  them,  and  recap- 
tured a  part  of  the  booty ;  in  the  struggle  wounding  him 
with  a  cutlass,  and,  as  I  judged  by  appearances,  cutting  to 
the  bone.  He  told  the  story  with  great  spirit,  slashing 
right  and  left,  and  grunting  with  extraordinary  emphasis, 
as  if  to  give  an  impression  that  good  hard  blows  were 
given  and  taken;  but  I  afterwards  learned  that  it  was 
a  cowardly  running  fight,  in  which  more  sweat  than  blood 
was  spilled. 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  at  our  encampment  near 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  113 

the  lakes,  except — what  was  a  verj  noteworthy  fact  with 
me  —  such  an  abundance  of  ostrich  that  I  was  surfeited 
with  the  delicious  fare,  and  was  compelled  by  the  chiei'  to 
take  a  horse-rein  emetic,  —  a  more  precise  description  of 
which  the  rsader  will  have  no  difficulty  in  excusing.  Had 
I  not  so  completely  disavowed  the  medical  character,  the 
chief  might  probably  have  allowed  me  to  feel  my  own  pulse, 
—  if  I  could  find  it,  —  and  to  prescribe  for  myself;  but  the 
renunciation  of  professional  honors  brought  me  under  the 
sanitary,  as  veil  as  the  political,  jurisdiction  of  Parosilver. 
Our  line  of  march  was  now  in  a  northerly  direction,  soon 
deflecting  to  the  eastward,  — a  movement  that  revived  my 
sinking  hopes,  There -seemed  to  be  some  prospect  of  strik- 
ing the  Atlan:ic  coast,  and  coming  within  reach  of  civilized 
men.  On  our  way  we  observed  the  tracks  of  some  animals 
different  from  any  I  had  met  with.  The  chief  said  it  was 
the  limerer,  wi  th  which  lucid  definition  I  was  fain  to  be  con- 
tent ;  and,  as  no  specimens  were  visible,  the  inquisitive 
naturalist  must  trust  to  his  imagination  for  the  rest. 


144  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Retrograde  march  —  A  look-cut  ahead  —  New  specimens  of  birds  ob- 
served —  To  the  right  again  --  Large  inducements  to  visit  Holland  — 
Apparent  effect  —  Council  —  Other  tribes  of  Indians  —  Story  of  a  bat- 
tle —  Capture  of  wild  horses  —  A  royal  speech  worth  hearing  —  Dep- 
utation to  Holland  —  A  start  and  a  sudden  halt  —  Journey  commenced 
in  earnest  —  Order  of  arrangements  —  First  view  of  Holland  —  A 
weary  day  and  night  —  A  boat  —  A  short  parley  —  Swimming  for  life 
and  liberty  —  A  rescue  —  Farewell  to  Patagonia. 

MY  hopes  were  soon  cast  down,  by  a  decided  movement 
to  the  westward.  Every  step,  I  was  convinced,  lengthened 
the  distance  between  me  and  the  spot  where  my  most  ear- 
nest wishes  centred  ;  for,  though  I  knew  not  of  any  settle- 
ments in  this  barren  region,  yet  it  was  pretty  certain  that 
if  there  was  one  it  must  be  sought  in  the  line  of  the  Santa 
Cruz.  Of  our  latitude  and  longitude  I  could  form  no  deci- 
sive judgment ;  but  by  the  aid  of  the  sun,  of  which  occa- 
sional glimpses  were  caught,  it  was  easy  to  take  note  of  our 
direction,  and  I  never  retired  to  rest  without  taking  land- 
marks, and  satisfying  myself  as  nearly  as  possible  as  to  our 
whereabouts.  At  night  there  was  a  renewal  of  the  discus- 
sions which  had  once  so  nearly  turned  my  brain,. and  now  at 
times  came  near  verifying  the  plea  which  then  saved  me 
from  destruction ;  but  I  was  enabled  to  keep  my  feelings  in 
more  equal  check.  Disappointed  aid  care-worn,  I  spent  the 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  145 

night  in  commending  myself  t3  the  mercy  and  good  provi- 
dence of  God,  praying  that  he  would  soften  the  heart  of 
the  savage  and  open  a  way  of  deliverance. 

Among  other  matters  that  excited  my  curiosity,  I  was 
anxious  to  know  whether  the  Indians  were  expert  swimmers. 
The  only  occasion  on  which  I  had  seen  them  attempt  it  was 
at  the  time  of  the  accident  in  crossing  the  river.  Then  two 
of  them  swam  across,  while  the  others  floated  on  their 
horses'  backs,  clinging  to  the  mane.  In  answer  to  some 
questions  dropped  on  the  subject,  the  chief  assured  me  that 
they  were  all  expert  swimmers,  and  could  stretch  off  a  long 
distance  without  resting,  as  they  would  show  me,  but  that 
the  coldness  of  the  season  made  the  experiment  too  unpleas- 
ant. Others  of  the  tribe  told  the  same  story.  The  ques- 
tion was  interesting,  for  obvious  reasons.  I  had  thought  a 
time  might  come  when  it  would  be  a  very  practical  one. 

Some  new  specimens  of  birds  made  their  appearance  from 
time  to  time.  One  was  a  large  black  bird,  resembling  the 
turkey-buzzard,  and  subsisting  on  carrion.  Another  resem- 
bled the  snow-birds  of  the  north.  I  had  also  seen,  near  the 
sea-shore  and  by  the  lakes,  several  species  of  water-fowl,  — 
one  not  unlike  the  wild  goose,  but  the  chief  said  they  were 
not  good  for  food. 

Our  course,  the  next  day,  was  northward,  and  the  day  fol- 
lowing turned  once  more  decidedly  towards  the  east,  whereat 
my  hopes,  varying  with  the  compass,  began  to  revive, 
though  their  buoyancy  was  tempered  by  experience  of  the 
uncertainty^  of  Indian  movements.  Observing  a  spot  cov- 
ered with  small  trees,  over  which  a  great  number  of  carrion 
birds  hovered,  we  approached  and  found  the  carcass  of  a 
poor  old  guanaco,  which  had  most  1  ikely  paid  the  debt  of 


146  THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA. 

nature  without  compulsion,  and  was  stripped  of  itt  flesh  by 
the  birds.  The  chief  broke  some  of  the  bones  and  eagerly 
sucked  the  marrow,  and  then  picked  up  the  remainder  to 
add  to  the  domestic  stock  of  grease. 

At  the  close  of  the  next  day  we  brought  up  at  a  ravine, 
and  found  our  camp  by  following  it  a  short  distance  to  a 
low  flat.  Proceeding  to  the  eastward  all  the  next  day,  we 
ascended  a  high  eminence,  from  ^hich  the  chief  pointed  in  a 
south-westerly  direction,  and  said  that  "  Holland  "  lay  there. 
I  strained  my  eyes  in  the  quarter  indicated,  without,  how- 
ever, making  any  discoveries,  and  with  a  strong  disposition 
to  think  the  Old  Boy  was  hoaxing  me.  At  dark  we  denied 
down  a  steep,  declivity,  and  pitched  our  tents  on  the  border 
of  an  extensive  marsh  covered  with  ice.  Here  I  renewed 
my  arguments  for  speeding  our  way  to  the  promised  land, 
dilating  on  the  qualities  of  the  promised  rum  in  a  style 
that  would  have  astonished  the  advocates  of  the  Maine 
liquor  law,  and  impaired  the  confidence  of  those  who  had 
reasonably  regarded  me  as  a  strict  temperance  man.  Indeed, 
the  antics  and  grimace  with  which  I  enforced  the  description, 
and  illustrated  the  jovial  effects  of  the  creature,  —  the  boasts 
of  how  I  would  teach  them,  by  its  aid,  to  throw  the  lasso, 
and  perform  most  astonishing  feats  of  horse-stealing  and 
riding,  —  might  have  induced  a  suspicion  that  I  knew  more 
of  it  than  mere  observation  or  fancy  could  teach.  But, 
however  it  may  affect  my  reader,  it  produced  unmistakable 
contentment  and  satisfaction  to  my  Patagonian  auditors; 
and  that  was  what  I  aimed  at.  Q'hey  looked  and  listened 
with  watering  mouths  and  hoarse  laughter,  giving  token 
that  the  balmy  description  was  appreciated  to  a  most  desir- 
able degree.  So  evident  was  the  impressioi  that  I  spent 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA  147 

the  next  day  running  about  and  giving  line  upon  line  to  the 
most  influential  of  the  tribe,  and  succeeded,  as  I  thought,  in 
awakening  a  degree  of  enthusiasm  to  move  towards  the 
place  where  all  these  good  things  were  to  be  got.  In  con- 
firmation of  this,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  called  at 
night  to  attend  a  solemn  council. 

It  was  a  peaceful  gathering,  —  they  left  their  weapons 
behind,  —  but  it  contemplated  only  a  sort  of  preliminary 
inquiry ;  the  Patagonians  know  how  to  make  their  forms  of 
procedure  as  tedious  as  any  of  our  courts  of  law,  summary 
as  are  many  of  their  dealings.  They  examined  and  cross- 
examined  very  strictly,  sifting  my  story  with  a  severity 
which  showed  that  they  were  in  earnest,  and  at  the  same 
time  a  little  suspicious.  It  was  necessary  to  be  on  my 
guard  at  all  points  ;  and  if  they  had  been  more  docile  learn- 
ers of  arithmetic,  and  able  to  stick  on  questions  of  number 
and  quantity,  it  might  have  been  a  harder  matter  to  satisfy 
them.  But,  on  the  whole,  the  old  story  was  stuck  to  with 
a  degree  of  consistency  that  produced  the  desired  effect. 
Their  confidence  was  perceptibly  raised,  and,  after  a  good 
deal  of  talk,  the  council  adjourned,  every  one  more  than 
ever  disposed  to  visit  "  Holland." 

While  at  this  encampment,  I  observed  on  the  ground 
about  a  dozen  large  oyster-shells,  that  appeared  to  have 
been  recently  opened.  These  were  the  first  and  only  shells 
of  the  kind  I  saw  in  the  country.  I  inquired  if  they  were 
plenty  in  that  vicinity.  They  said  they  were  not ;  none  of 
the  tribe  seemed  to  know  where  they  came  from,  or  anything 
about  them.  The  chief  said  that  he  and  his  people  did  not 
relish  oysters,  but  other  Indians  ate  them.  He  did  not  like 
fish  of  any  kind ;  no  fish  had  grease  enough  for  them ; 


148  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

none  of  his  Indians  ate  fish.  This,  and  some  similar  inci- 
dents and  conversations,  convinced  me  that  there  were  other 
Indian  tribes  in  the  vicinity.  On  one  occasion  I  had 
noticed  some  places  where  a  tribe,  probably  as  numerous  as 
our  own,  had  encamped.  Their  fires  appeared  to  have 
been  very  recently  extinguished.  Our  tribe  appeared  to 
be  considerably  disturbed  at  these  discoveries,  and  1 
judged  that  they  were  the  traces  of  some  enemies.  It  is 
certain  that  my  captors  had  seen  some  desperate  fights,  of 
which  they  bore  the  marks  on  their  persons.  One  of  them 
had  a  deep  scar  on  his  breast,  which  he  said  was  the  mark 
of  an  arrow-shot  received  from  the  "Yamasckoner"  Indians, 
a  tribe  that  use  the  bow  and  arrow.  His  description  sug- 
gested the  probability  that  these  were  the  Terra-del-Fuego 
Indians ;  but,  on  mentioning  the  conjecture  at  a  later  period 
to  a  person  I  met  at  the  Chilian  penal  settlement,  he  informed 
me  that  those  islanders  invariably  shoot  poisoned  arrows, 
which  would  not  leave  the  victim  much  leisure  to  describe 
their  effect.  The  scar  in  question  was  a  deep  one,  in  the 
region  of  the  heart ;  and  while  I  was  examining  it,  the  chief 
remarked  that  the  arrow  passed  through  his  body  and  came 
out  at  his  back.  On  examination,  a  distinct  scar  was  vis- 
ible on  his  back,  so  far  corresponding  in  form  and  direction 
with  the  one  in  front,  that  it  seemed  likely  to  have  been 
made  by  the  same  weapon.  But  how  the  arrow  could  have- 
transfixed  him  through  the  chest,  without  wounding  the 
vital  organs,  was  not  easily  to  be  conjectured.  The  only 
explanation  I  could  conceive  of  was,  that  the  fellow's  heart 
was  so  much  harder  than  any  material  used  for  arrow- 
heads, that  the  missile,  instead  of  penetrating  that  import- 
ant organ,  had  glanced  aside  and  passed  without  mortal  hurt. 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  149 

Enough  had  been  developed  to  assure  me  that  the  tribe  gen- 
erally had  hearts  of  no  ordinary  toughnc  ss,  capable  of  serv- 
ing them  for  all  practical  purposes  wherein  impenetrable 
stuff  was  in  request ;  but  the  tale  of  this  miraculous  escape 
gave  a  new  impression  of  obduracy,  and  entitled  the  hero  to 
bear  the  palm  among  his.  fellows.  I  pretended  to  pity  him 
for  his  former  sufferings,  and  went  so  far  as  to  volunteer  — 
in  case  I  should  ever  be  permitted  to  enter  the  enemy's  ter- 
ritory —  to  make  mince-meat  of  some  of  them,  and  so  to 
avenge  his  cruel  injuries.  This  spontaneous  sympathy  and 
forwardness  to  take  up  his  quarrel  was  exceedingly  grati- 
fying to  the  sufferer  and  to  the  chief,  and  drew  from  them  a 
more  particular  narrative  of  the  combat. 

They  were  out  on  a  horse-stealing  expedition,  —  the 
usual  occasion,  it  seems,  of  Patagonian  fights, —  and  made  a 
swoop  upon  the  camp  of  another  tribe.  The  objects  of  this 
felonious  invasion  asserted  title  to  the  horses  in  their  pos- 
session by  certain  tangible  arguments,  and  induced  a  mor- 
tal combat.  And  now  Old  Boy  waxed  eloquent,  and  espec- 
ially displayed  that  prime  ingredient,  "  action."  His 
broad-sword  exercise  was  really  animated,  and  taught  us 
"  how  fields  were  won,"  —  or  would  have  done  so,  but  that, 
while  his  right  hand  was  slashing  the  air  with  his  good 
steel,  his  left  would  hold  the  bridle-rein,  and  his  heels 
involuntarily  drive  the  spur  ;  —  in  short,  though  it  was  a 
part  on  which  he  did  not  linger  in  the  narration  any  more 
than  in  the  act,  there  was  some  tall  running  on  the  occa- 
sion. So  artlessly  was  the  tale  told,  that  while  the  hero 
was  cutting  and  thrusting  and  grunting,  to  make  due  im- 
pression of  the  desperate  bravery  displayed  in  the  encoun- 
ter, his  subordinate  action  clearly  depicted  a  running  and 
13 


150  THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

retreating  fight,  and  convinced  me  that  they  get  a  =?our,cl 
drubbing  for  their  pains.  He  said  he  killed  one  Ii  dian, 
with  an  air  that  would  have  done  justice  to  the  slaying  of 
a  regiment.  Shocking  to  relate,  there  were  found  persons 
who  slanderously  reported  to  me  that  Old  Boy's  legs  had 
the  unhappy  propensity  of  Pat  O'Flaherty's,  whose  heart 
was  a^  brave  as  any  man's,  but  his  cowardly  legs  ran  away 
with  his  body;  and  they  scrupled  not  to  affirm  that  in 
this  same  hard-fought  battle  he  crawled  into  the  bushes, 
and  there  secreted  himself  till  the  cessation  of  hostilities 
enabled  him  to  rejoin  his  tribe. 

The  reader  has  doubtless  noticed  that  "  the  tribe  "  has 
been  all  along  anonymous.  The  explanation  comes  rather 
late,  but,  in  point  of  fact,  I  never  could  learn  that  they 
had  any  distinctive  name ;  they  never  used  any.  Indeed 
proper  names  were  very  seldom  heard.  Even  in  conversa- 
tion concerning  each  other,  they  managed  to  avoid  "  naming 
names  "  as  strictly  as  so  many  honorable  senators,  though 
for  no  reason  that  I  could  discover.  By  signs  and  ges- 
tures, and  other  hints,  they  indicated  the  personal  subject 
of  remark,  and  seemed  to  suffer  no  inconvenience  from 
what  would  be  felt  among  us  as  a  serious  want. 

While  out  hunting  one  day  with  the  chief,  we  ascended  a 
slight  eminence,  commanding  a  view  of  an  extensive  plain. 
The  chief  suddenly  stopped  his  horse,  and  looked  steadily 
forward.  I  bent  my  eyes  in  the  same  direction,  and  paw 
two  or  three  mounted  Indians  moving  towards  a  common 
point.  There  was  nothing  unusual  to  be  seen,  but  Old 
Boy  seemed  to  discover  something.  I  inquired  what  it 
was.  He  answered  by  pointing ;  and,  on  a  second  view,  I 
observed  a  horse  loose,  which  I  took  to  be  that  of  .tune 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  151 

Indian  temporarily  dismounted.  But  the  chief  said  they 
were  about  to  catch  a  wild  horse,  and  forthwith  dashed  off 
at  a  furious  rate,  bidding  me  follow.  We  were  rapidly 
Hearing  the  spot,  when  the  two  in  advance  of  us  put  their 
horses  at  top  speed  towards  the  lone  horse  that  was  stand- 
ing beside  a  clump  of  bushes.  It  suddenly  ran  before  its 
pursuers,  followed  by  two  colts  from  the  thicket.  The 
colts  appeared  to  be  one  or  two  years  old,  and  were  doubt- 
less following  their  dam.  One  Indian  singled  out  the 
mare,  and  another  the  larger  colt.  The  little  one  did  not 
lag  behind.  The  chief  and  myself  followed  at  a  pace  which 
would  have  made  a  single  misstep  fatal  to  our  necks ;  but 
fortunately  our  horses  proved  sure-footed.  On  we  dashed, 
helter-skelter,  in  a  direction  to  head  off  the  pursuers,  and 
to  place  ourselves  nearest  to  the  affrighted  animals.  The 
mare  yet  holds  the  lead,  and  fairly  tears  up  the  soil  with 
her  flashing  hoofs.  An  Indian,  in  close  pursuit,  presently 
swings  his  lariat  about  his  head ;  but  she  makes  a  curve  in 
her  course,  and  springs  beyond  the  reach  of  his  aim.  Her 
pursuer  once  more  gains  on  her ;  again  tfce  lariat  swings 
through  the  air,  —  he  lets  go,  —  the  noose  catches  her  neck, 
—  the  hunter's  horse  turns  suddenly  off,  and  the  rope, 
securely  attached  to  the  saddle,  brings  the  poor  captive 
headlong  to  the  ground.  The  trained  horse  keeps  a  strain 
on  the  noose  sufficient  to  prevent  her  from  rising,  while  the 
hunter  dismounts  and  secures  his  prize.  The  colts  shared 
the  same  fate,  and,  with  the  mother,  were  subdued  and 
made  useful  to  the  tribe. 

The  scenes  and  reminiscences  I  have  described  did  not 
prevent  the  matter  of  most  absorbing  interest  to  myself — 
the  projected  visit  to  "Holland"  —  from  engaging  due 


152  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

attention  The  chief  came  home  from  the  council  full  of 
it.  He  was  in  royal  good  humor,  and  talked  about  it  half 
the  night ;  but  several  objections  arose,  which  it  was  neces- 
sary for  me  to  dispose  of.  These  were  met,  apparently  to 
his  full  satisfaction.  One  of  the  most  serious^  was  the  fear 
that  the  white  men  would  revenge  upon  him  the  murder  of 
Captain  Eaton.  I  assured  him  that  so  long  as  I  was  with 
him  he  had  nothing  to  fear  on  that  score  ;  the  people  were 
all  mine,  and  would  do,  or  refrain  from  doing,  whatever  I 
should  bid  them.  They  would  not  dare  to  lift  their  hands 
against  him  contrary  to  my  orders,  or  refuse  to  deliver 
what  articles  I  chose  to  demand.  Nothing,  I  found,  would 
do,  but  the  assertion  of  absolute  supremacy  over  all  white 
men  whatever,  the  world  around ;  less  than  this  would  not 
secure  the  confidence  of  these  savages,  and  I  regulated  my 
speech  by  the  necessities  of  the  case.  The  chief  inquired, 
half  a  dozen  times  over,  what  I  would  say  to  the  white 
men,  and  I  as  often  rehearsed  an  address  for  the  occasion. 
At  last  his  curiosity  seemed  abated,  and  we  fell  asleep. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  were  up  and  stirring,  and 
the  chief  having  adjusted  his  toilet  with  care,  a  slight 
breakfast  was  made  ready.  This  over,  his  highness  stood 
forth,  and  from  the  door  of  his  lodge  made  an  official 
address  to  the  tribe,  wherein  he  set  out  the  advantages  of  a 
visit  to  "Holland,"  and  suggested  the  most  expedient 
style  of  making  it.  He  advised  that  a  few  only  of  the 
tribe  should  be  deputed,  with  himself,  to  accompany  me,  and 
receive  the  stores  of  rum,  tobacco,  bread,  rice,  tea,  butter, 
beads,  brass,  copper,  and  so  forth,  that  were  to  be  forth- 
coming, as  the  expression  of  my  gratitude  for  the  dis- 
tirguished  consideration  with  which  they  had  treated  me. 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA 

Though  royal  speeches  seldom  excite  any  jealousy  of  pla- 
giarism, and  it  n\ay  seem  a  little  captious  on  my  part  to 
make  such  a  charge,  it  is  due  to  "  the  truth  of  history  "  to 
declare,  that  herein  the  great  Parosilver  did  but  repeat  a 
suggestion  which  he  did  me  the  honor  to  receive  with  favor 
over-night.  It  was  not  deemed  essential  to  the  case  to 
inform  his  highness  of  all  the  reasons  that  led  me  to  wish 
for  as  small  an  escort  as  the  nature  of  the  business  would 
admit.  On  the  contrary,  acting  upon  the  profound  maxim, 
that  one  sufficient  reason  is  as  good  as  a  dozen,  and  better 
than  that  number  of  questionable  ones,  I  merely  advised, 
that,  after  the  experience  which  Captain  Eaton  and  others 
had  had  of  Patagonian  prowess,  the  sight  of  too  many  of 
his  giants  would  frighten  away  the  whites,  and  prevent  all 
beneficial  communication  with  them ;  while  the  presence  of 
a  small  deputation  would  be  a  pledge  of  their  pacific  in- 
clinations. The  speech  from  the  throne  proved  less  moving 
than  most  of  the  chief's  effusions;  his  lieges  listened  with 
great  interest,  and  an  earnest  debate  sprung  up,  at  the 
conclusion  of  which  it  was  decided  that  the  chief,  with  four 
other  Indians  and  their  squaws,  should  be  my  body-guard, 
the  rest  of  the  tribe  to  follow  after.  Another  old  woman 
begged  to  go  with  us,  which  was  agreed  to.  The  horse  I 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  riding  was  lame,  and  unfit  for 
service  ;  another  was  procured  for  me. 

Our  simple  preparations  for  departure  were  soon  made, 
and  as  we  were  about  to  start  they  all  began  bringing  their 
dirty  children  to  me,  and  requesting  that  1  would  bring 
brass  and  beads  for  them  all ;  which  was  gravely  promised. 
much  to  their  satisfaction.  There  remained  the  last  act  in 
the  comedy  for  Thich  I  had  been  long  rehearsing,  —  if,  in- 
13* 


154  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

deed,  it  did  not  turn  out  a  tragedy.  The  idea  had  early 
occurred  to  me,  that  if  I  had  some  object  to  which  I 
appeared  very  much  attached,  it  might  prove  to  be  for  my 
advantage ;  the  Indians  might  hold  it,  in  my  absence  at 
any  time,  as  a  sort  of  surety  for  my  return.  A  belle  from 
among  the  beauties  of  the  tribe  would  be  effectual  to  that 
end  ;  but,  if  no  sentiments  of  virtue  had  restrained  me  from 
this  expedient,  the  filth  and  unsightliness  of  them  all  were 
enough  to  insure  continence.  I  chose,  therefore,  a  little 
white  dog  for  a  pet,  —  a  dirty,  thievish  little  rascal ;  —  but 
I  fondled  him  in  the  style  proper  to  a  violent  attachment. 
It  is  true  that  when  I  saw  him  licking  the  meat  designed 
for  our  repast  it  was  not  easy  to  refrain  from  kicking  his 
worthless  brains  out ;  but  this  was  a  trifle  to  other  things  I 
had  to  endure,  and  I  made  myself  apparently  so  fond  of 
him  that  the  reality  of  the  case  was  never  suspected.  Now 
and  then  I  indemnified  myself  by  giving  him,  when  un- 
observed, a  smart  rapping  for  his  misdeeds,  though  such 
chastisement  made  but  a  slight  impression  on  the  object  of 
it.  As  we  were  about  setting  out,  I  was  asked  if  I  in- 
tended to  take  my  dog.  No,  I  told  them,  he  would  be 
better  off  there,  and  when  I  returned  he  should  have  some 
bread  and  other  dainties  to  eat.  The  ruse  more  than  an- 
swered its  expected  end,  in  lulling  all  suspicion  of  my 
sincerity. 

At  last  we  were  under  way.  The  grand  crisis  to  which 
all  my  diplomacy  and  the  utmost  license  of  fiction  had 
tended  was  near  at  hand.  A  strong  hope  of  deliverance 
braced  my  spirits,  shaded,  it  is  true,  by  a  natural  appre- 
hension of  possible  failure,  and  of  the  consequences  that 
might  follow.  Witfi  no  great  elation  of  spirits,  but  with  a 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  155 

stern,  severe  tensiol.  of  all  my  mental  energies,  and  a  con- 
centration of  them  into  one  focus  of  resolve,  I  waved  a  fare- 
well, which  I  hoped  might  be  everlasting,  to  the  accursed 
gang  of  robbers  who  had  tormented  me  so  many  tedious 
weeks.  "  Good-by  to  Patagonia  ! "  I  mentally  ejaculated,  and 
struck  off  with  my  escort ;  but  had  not  gone  more  than  an 
eighth  of  a  mile,  when  the  party  wheeled  about  and  ordered 
me  to  follow  them  back  to  the  camp  !  I  remonstrated,  but 
it  was  of  no  use,  and  with  a  heavy  heart  I  found  myself 
once  more  in  my  dirty  corner  of  a  wigwam.  The  horses 
were  turned  adrift  without  a  word  of  explanation,  and  the 
Indians  sat  down  to  a  game  of  cards,  with  as  much  indiffer- 
ence to  everything  else  as  if  the  events  of  the  past  forty- 
eight  hours  had  been  a  feverish  dream.  What  could  be  the 
meaning  of  it?  I  questioned  the  chief.  He  merely  replied 
that  he  would  go  by  and  by,  — by  and  by  ;  which,  being 
interpreted,  probably  meant  when  he  pleased,  and  that 
convenient  season  might  never  arrive  !  After  I  had  teased 
him  for  a  long  time  he  took  me  to  the  door  of  the  lodge,  and, 
pointing  to  the  river,  said  it  was  "  no  good  then ;"  it  would 
be  "  good  "  at  night.  What  the  state  of  the  river,  which 
was  a  shallow  stream,  a  branch  of  the  Santa  Cruz,  had  to  do 
with  the  matter,  I  could  not  divine,  and  was  half  inclined  to 
vote  myself  fairly  outwitted  by  the  Old  Boy. 

The  day,  a  long  one,  at  last  wore  off,  and  at  night  we  once 
more  set  off.  We  crossed  the  frozen  marsh,  and  forded  the 
river,  and,  after  going  about  two  miles,  stopped  for  repose 
We  took  no  camp  e  juipage,  and  had  to  shelter  ourselves  for 
the  nifht  under  the  lee  of  a  clump  of  bushes.  We  thrust 
our  feet  int^  the  thicket,  while  our  heads  lodged  out  of" 
doom  In  this  interesting  attitude  I  was  made  to  repeat 


156  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

roy  wearisome  detail  of  promises,  and  to  rehearse  once  racta 
my  contemplated  speech  to  the  white  men  ;  which  done,  we 
dropped  asleep.  Waking  early  the  next  morning,  I  found 
my  head  and  shoulders  covered  with  a  fleecy  mantle  of  snow. 
Would  the  fortune  of  my  expedition  fall  as  lightly  on  me  ? 
I  shook  it  off,  turned  up  my  coat-collar,  pulled  my  poor, 
more  than  half  worn-out  cap  over  my  ears,  and  so.  partially 
protected  from  the  storm,  rolled  over,  and  again  sunk  into 
a  slumber.  The  storm  ceased  at  dawn  of  day.  I  rose  and 
went  in  search  of  fuel,  while  my  dark  companions  still  slept 
profoundly.  In  an  hour  or  two  they  roused  themselves,  and 
kindled  a  fire.  Meat,  from  a  store  brought  along  for  our 
provision  on  the  way,  was  cooked,  and  served  for  breakfast. 
The  scanty  meal  being  despatched,  our  horses  were  driven 
in,  lassoed,  mounted,  and  we  resumed  our  journey,  in  a 
south-easterly  direction.  At  the  end  of  about  three  miles 
another  halt  was  called,  a  fire  was  built  to  warm  by,  and 
the  horses  were  watered.  The  order  of  arrangements  was 
discussed,  and  a  fresh  edition  of  the  promises  and  the 
speech  critically  listened  to.  Changing  our  course  a  little 
to  the  right^  we  soon  struck  the  Santa  Cruz.  The  Indians 
pointed  far  down  the  stream,  and  said,  "  There  is  Holland." 
I  strained  my  eyes  in  the  direction  pointed  out,  and 
thought  I  could  discern  an  island  with  several  small  huts 
upon  it.  A  mile  or  two  further  on  the  north  bank  brought 
us  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  in  prospect  of  the  Atlantic. 
The  island  was  directly  opposite  the  mouth,  and  the  lower 
part  only  appeared  to  be  inhabited.  We  halted.  The  In- 
dians pointed  towards  it,  exclaiming,  "  Esta  Holland  sarvoy  ! 
muchas  sasas.  mucho  mucho  hombres,  tene  mucho  aquadientc, 
mucho  travac,  yeruen,  arenar,  arose  1 "  —  This  is  Holland, 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  15? 

and  has  plenty  of  houses,  and  abundance  of  men,  —  plenty 
of  rum,  tobacco,  bread,  tea,  flour  and  rice  !  I  surveyed  the 
spot  in  silence.  This  island  was  of  considerable  extent, 
lying  two-thirds  across  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  its  sur- 
face dotted  over  with  little  knolls  or  hillocks  of  earth. 
Could  it  be  that  these  were  dwellings  inhabited  by  white 
men  ? 

Our  horses'  heads  were  now  turned  from  the  shore, 
and  we  rode  back  about  an  eighth  of  a  mile  to  a  large  clump 
of  bushes,  unsaddled  our  beasts,  and  waited  some  time  for 
the  rest  of  our  company,  who  had  fallen  in  the  rear.  They 
came  at  last,  our  horses  were  turned  adrift,  fire  was 
lighted,  and,  as  the  day  was  far  spent,  supper  was  in  order. 
Then  ensued  a  repetition  —  a  final  one.  I  trusted  —  of  the 
grand  present  to  be  levied  on  the  Hollanders,  and  of  the 
speech  which  was  to  draw  them  out.  The  Indians  arranged 
that  I  was  to  hoist  the  English  flag,  — the  colors  of  the 
unfortunate  brig  Avon,  which  they  had  brought  along  at 
my  request,  —  and  then  to  walk  the  shore  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  islanders.  On  the  approach  of  a  boat,  I  was 
to  be  kept  back  from  the  beach,  to  prevent  escape ;  for  1 
found  that  they  were  not,  after  all,  as  well  assured  of  my 
good  faith  as  might  have  been  desirable.  They  thought, 
moreover,  that  when  the  white  men  saw  a  prisoner  with 
them,  they  would  come  ashore  to  parley,  and  offer  presents 
to  effect  his  release;  in  that  case,  there  might  be  a  chance, 
if  the  negotiation  proved  unsatisfactory,  to  take  bonds  of 
fate  in  the  form  of  another  captive  or  two.  So,  at  least 
there  was  ground  to  suspect,  —  and  some  cause  to  fear  that 
the  rascals  might  prove  too  shrewd  for  all  of  us  ! 

After  ta  king  till  a  late  hour,  the  Lidians  threw  them 


158  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

selves  upon  the  ground,  stuck 'their  feet  into  the  bushes,  and 
were  soon  fist  asleep.  I  consulted  the  chief  as  to  the  pro- 
priety of  modifying  this  arrangement,  by  placing  our  heads, 
rather  than  our  feet,  under  cover,  since  both  could  not  be 
accommodated.  He  declined  any  innovations,  and  told  me 
to  go  to  sleep.  I  stretched  myself  on  the  ground,  but  as  to 
sleep,  that  was  o*ut  of  the  question.  I  lay  all  night,  thinking 
over  all  possible  expedients  for  escape.  We  had  no  mate- 
rials for  a  boat  or  raft  of  any  description,  and  it  was  impos- 
sible to  think  of  any  plan  that  promised  success ;  so  that, 
after  tossing,  in  body  and  mind,  through  the  weary  hours 
of  night,  I  could  only  resolve  to  wait  the  course  of  events, 
and  to  take  advantage  of  the  first  opportunity  affording 
a  reasonable  hope  of  deliverance  from  this  horrid  captivity. 
Snow,  sleet  and  rain,  fell  during  the  night ;  and  I  rose  early, 
thoroughly  chilled,  every  tooth  chattering.  A  fire  was 
kindled,  and  the  last  morsel  of  meat  that  remained  to  us 
was  cooked  and  eaten.  The  weather  continued  squalfy  till 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon. 

After  breakfast  the  chief  went  with  me  to  the  shore,  bear- 
ing the  flag.  On  the  beach  I  found  a  strip  of  thick  board,  to 
which  I  fastened  the  colors,  and  then  planted  it  in  the  sand. 
The  bushes  around,  which  have  a  kind  of  oily  leaf  and  read- 
ily ignite,  were  set  on  fire.  I  then  walked  the  beach,  — but 
no  boat  came.  When  it  cleared  up  suff  Gently  to  see,  T 
observed  little  objects  moving  about  on  the  island.  The 
day  wore  away  with  fruitless  attempts  to  attract  their 
attention.  With  n  aching  heart  I  returned,  at  dark,  to  the 
camping-ground.  On  this  island  my  hopes  had  so  long 
centred,  —  if  they  were  now  to  be  disappointed,  how  could 
J  cud  ire  it  ?  The  Indians  began  to  talk  of  rejoining  the  tribe 


TELE    CA1TIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  159 

the  following  day.  I  opposed  the  motion  with  all  the  dissua- 
gives  at  command,  assuring  them  that,  at  sight  of  our 
flag,  the  islanders  would  surely  come  over  in  a  boat,  and 
that,  if  they  would  only  wait  a  little,  they  could  go  over  to 
the  island  and  enjoy  themselves  to  their  hearts'  content ; 
representing  the  absolute  necessity  that  I  should  pro- 
cure the  rum,  &c.,  we  had  talked  of,  and  how  embarrass- 
ing it  would  be  to  go  back  to  the  tribe  empty-handed,  after 
all  that  had  been  said,  to  be  ridiculed  and  reproached.  It 
would  never  do.  Our  conversation  was  continued  till  quite 
late,  when  we  ranged  ourselves,  hungry  and  weary,  for 
another  night.  For  hours  I  was  unable  to  sleep.  The 
uncertainties  of  my  situation  oppressed  me,  and  I  lay  rest- 
less, with  anxiety  inexpressible,  inconceivable  by  those  whom 
Providence  has  preserved  from  similar  straits.  It  was  a 
season  of  deep,  suppressed,  silent  misery,  in  which  the  heart 
found  no  relief  but  in  mute  supplication  to  Him  who  was 
alone  able  to  deliver.  Towards  morning,  exhausted  with 
the  intensity  of  emotion  acting  on  an  enfeebled  body,  I 
slept  a  little,  and  woke  at  early  dawn,  to  a  fresh  conscious- 
ness of  my  critical  position. 

The  weather  had  been  fair  during  the  night,  but  there 
were  now  indications  of  another  snow-storm.  I  waited  long 
and  impatiently  for  my  companions  to  awake,  and  at  last 
started  off  in  quest  of  fuel ;  on  returning  with  which,  they 
bestirred  themselves  and  started  a  fire,  which  warmed  our 
.half-benumbed  limbs.  There  lay  the  little  island,  beautiful 
to  eyes  that  longed,  like  mine,  for  a  habitation  of  sym- 
pathizing men,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distant ;  it  almost 
geemed  to  recede  while  I  gazed,  so  low  had  my  hopes  sunken, 
under  the  pressure  of  disappointment  and  bitter  uncertainty, 


160  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

A  violent  snow-storm  soon  setting  in,  it  was  hidden  from 
view ;  everything  seemed  to  be  against  me.  It  slackened,  and 
partially  cleared  up,  —  then  came  another  gust,  filling  the 
air,  and  shutting  up  the  prospect.  In  this  way  it  con- 
tinued till  past  noon ;  at  intervals,  as  the  sky  lighted  up, 
I  took  a  fire-brand,  and  set  fire  to  the  bushes  on  the  beach, 
and  then  hoisted  the  flag  again,  walking  wearily  to  and 
fro,  till  the  storm  ceased,  and  the  sky  became  clear.  The 
chief  concealed  himself  in  a  clump  of  bushes,  and  sat 
watching,  with  cat-like  vigilance,  the  movements  of  the 
islanders.  After  some  time,  he  said  a  boat  was  coming  ;  I 
scarcely  durst  look  in  the  direction  indicated,  lest  I  should 
experience  a  fresh  disappointment ;  but  I  did  look,  and 
saw,  to  my  great  joy,  a  boat  launched,  with  four  or  five 
men  on  board,  and  pushing  off  the  shore.  On  they  came ; 
the  chief  reported  his  discovery,  and  the  rest  of  the  Indians 
came  to  the  beach,  where  I  was  still  walking  backward 
and  forward.  The  boat  approached,  not  directly  off  where 
I  was,  but  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  perhaps,  to  the  windward, 
and  there  lay  on  her  oars. 

The  Indians  hereupon  ordered  me  to  return  to  the 
camping-ground ;  but,  without  heeding  them,  I  set  off  at  a 
full  run  towards  the  boat.  They  hotly  pursued,  I  occa- 
sionally turning  and  telling  them  to  come  on,  —  I  only 
wanted  to  see  the  boat.  "  Stop !  Stop !  "  they  bawled. 
"  Now,  my  legs,"  said  I,  "  if  ever  you  want  to  serve  me, 
this  is  the  time."  I  had  one  advantage  over  my  pur- 
suers; my  shoes,  though  much  the  worse  for  wear,  pro- 
tected my  feet  from  the  sharp  stones,  which  cut  theirs  at 
every  step ;  but,  under  all  disadvantages,  I  found  they 
made  about  equal  speed  with  myself.  As  I  gained  a  point 
opposite  the  boat,  the  Indians  slackened  their  speed,  and 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  1G3 

looked  uneasily  at  me ;  the  man  in  the  stern  of  the  boat 
hailed  me,  inquiring  what  Indians  these  were,  what  number 
of  them,  and  how  I  came  among  them.  I  replied  in  as 
few  words  as  possible,  and  told  him  we  wished  to  cross  to 
the  island.  He  shook  his  head ;  they  were  bad  fellows,  he 
said ;  he  could  not  take  me  with  the  Indians,  They  began 
to  pull  away  !  I  made  signs  of  distress,  and  waved  them 
to  return,  shouting  to  them  through  my  hands.  The  boat 
was  again  backed  within  hailing  distance.  "  Will  you 
look  out  for  me,  if  I  come  by  myself?  "  "  Yes !  "  was  the 
prompt  reply.  The  Indians,  all  this  time,  had  kept  within 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  of  me,  with  their  hands  on  their  knives, 
and  reiterating  their  commands  to  come  back,  at  the  same 
time  edging  towards  me  in  a  threatening  manner.  "  Yes, 
yes,"  I  told  them,  "  in  a  moment,"  but  I  wanted  to  look  at 
the  boat,  —  taking  care,  however,  to  make  good  my  dis- 
tance from  them.  At  the  instant  of  hearing  the  welcome 
assurance  that  I  should  be  cared  for,  I  drew  out  the  watch 
^which  I  had  brought,  according  to  promise,  to  have  a  new 
crystal  inserted  at  Holland),  and  threw  it  into  the  bushes  ; 
the  salt  water  would  spoil  it,  and,  if  I  should  be  retaken, 
the  spoiling  of  that  would  be  an  aggravation  which  might 
prove  fatal.  At  the  same  moment  I  gave  a  plunge  head- 
long into  the  river ;  my  clothes  and  shoes  encumbered  me, 
and  the  surf,  agitated  by  a  high  wind,  rolled  in  heavy 
seas  upon  the  shore.  The  boat  was  forty  or  fifty  yards 
off;  and,  as  the  wind  did  not  blow  square  in  shore,  drifted, 
so  as  to  increase  the  original  distance,  unless  counteracted 
by  the  crew.  Whether  the  boat  was  backed  up  towards 
me,  I  could  not  determine ;  my  head  was  a  great  part  of 
the  time  under  water,  my  eyes  blinded  with  the  surf;  and 
14 


164  THE   CAPTIVE    IN   PATAGONIA. 

most  strenuous  exertion  was  necessary  to  live  in  such  a 
sea.  As  I  approached  the  boat  I  could  see  several  guns, 
pointed,  apparently,  at  me.  Perhaps  we  had  misunder- 
stood each  other,  —  perhaps  they  viewed  me  as  an  enemy  ! 
In  fact,  they  were  aimed  to  keep  the  Indians  from  follow 
ing  me  into  the  water,  which  they  did  not  attempt.  My 
strength  was  fast  failing  me ;  the  man  at  the  helm,  per- 
ceiving it,  stretched  out  a  rifle  at  arm's  length.  The 
muzzle  dropped  into  the  water,  and  arrested  my  feeble 
vision.  Summoning  all  my  remaining  energy,  I  grasped 

it,  and  was  drawn  towards  the  boat ;  a  sense  of  relief  shot 

> 

through  and  revived  me,  but  revived,  also,  such  a  dread 
lest  the  Indians  should  give  chase,  that  I  begged  them  to 
pull  away,  —  I  could  hold  on.  The  man  reached  down, 
and  seized  me  by  the  collar,  and  ordered  his  men  to  ply 
their  oars.  They  had  made  but  a  few  strokes,  when  a 
simultaneous  cry  broke  from  their  lips,  "  Pull  the  dear 
man  in !  Pull  the  dear  man  in  !  "  They  let  fall  their 
oars,  laid  hold  of  me,  and,  in  their  effort  to  drag  me  over 
the  side  of  their  whale-boat,  I  received  some  injury  ;  I 
requested  that  they  would  let  me  help  myself;  and,  work- 
ing my  body  up  sufficiently  to  get  -one  knee  over  the  gun- 
wale, I  gave  a  spring,  with  what  strength  was  left  me,  and 
fell  into  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  The.y  kindly  offered  to 
strip  me,  and  put  on  dry  clothes;  but  I  told  them,  if  they 
would  only  work  the  boat  further  from  the  shoro,  I  would 
take  care  of  myself.  They  pulled  away,  while  I  crawled 
forward,  divested  myself  of  my  coat,  and  put  on  one 
belonging  to  one  of  the  crew.  Conversation,  which  was 
attempted,  was  impossible;  it  was  one  of  the  coldest  days 
of  a  Patagonian  winter, — I  was  chilled  through,  and  could 
only  articulate,  "  I  ca-n't  ta-lk  now ;  I  '11  ta-lk  by  a-nd 


"Yl «    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  165 

6y."  Some  liquor,  bread  and  tobacco,  which  had  been 
put  on  board  for  my  ransom,  on  supposition  that  this  was 
what  the  signal  meant,  was  produced  for  my  refreshment. 
The  sea  was  heavy,  with  a  strong  head-wind ;  so  that, 
though  the  men  toiled  vigorously,  our  progress  was  slow. 
I  was  soon  comfortably  warmed  by  the  stimulants  pro- 
vided, and  offered  to  lend  a  hand  at  the  oar ;  but  the  offer 
was  declined.  The  shouts  and  screams  of  the  Indians, 
which  had  followed  me  into  the  water,  and  rung  hideously 
in  my  ears  while  struggling  for  life  in  the  surf,  were  kept 
up  till  distance  made  them  inaudible.  Whether  they 
found  the  watch,  whose  mysterious  tick  at  once  awed  and 
delighted  them,  and  restored  it  to  its  place  of  state  in  the 
chief 's  lodge,  or  whether  it  still  lies  rusting  in  the  sands 
by  the  sea-shore,  is  a  problem  unsolved. 

The  boat  at  last  grounded  on  the  northern  shore  of  the 
island ;  Mr.  Hall,  the  gentleman  who  commanded  the 
party,  supported  my  tottering  frame  in  landing ;  and,  as 
we  stepped  upon  the  shore,  welcomed  me  to  their  island. 
I  grasped  his  hand,  and  stammered  my  thanks  for  this 
deliverance,  and  lifted  a  tearful  eye  to  Heaven,  in  silent 
gratitude  to  God.  I  was  then  pointed  to  a  cabin  near  by, 
where  a  comfortable  fire  was  ready  for  me.  "  Now,"  I 
heard  Mr.  Hall  say,  "  let  us  fire  a  salute  of  welcome  to 
the  stranger.  Make  ready  !  present !  fire !  "  Off  went  all 
their  muskets,  and  a  very  cordial  salute  it  appeared  to  be. 
He  soon  followed  me,  took  me  to  his  own  dwelling,  sup- 
plied me  with  dry  clothing,  and,  above  all,  warmed  me  in 
the  kindly  glow  of  as  generous  a  heart  as  ever  beat  in 
human  bosom. 

I  was  captured  by  the  savages  on  the  1st  of  May,  and 
landed  upon  the  island  on  the  7th  of  August. 


166  TIIE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGOH1A. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

A  civilized  neal  —  A  happy  evening  —  A  survey  of  the  island  —  Prepar- 
ation of  guano  —  Preparations  against  invasion  by  the  giants  —  A  pro- 
posal to  attack  them  —  Loyalty  and  revenge  —  Killing  time  —  Trouble 
in  the  settlement  —  A  disagreeable  situation  —  Arrival  of  vessels  — 
Countrymen  —  A  welcome  by  new  friends. 

AFTER  getting  sufficiently  thawed  out,  I  gave  a  synopsis 
of  my  adventures.  The  cook  presently  laid  the  table,  and 
brought  in  supper.  I  ate  heartily  of  bread  and  Irish  pork, 
and  drank  tea  raised  in  Brazil,  called  matte. '  It  may  not 
compare  favorably  with  the  produce  of  China,  but  to  me  it 
was  a  delicious  beverage.  I  had  been  in  captivity  ninety- 
seven  days,  living  as  the  reader  has  seen.  Although  I  par- 
took freely  of  supper,  —  too  freely  for  one  in  my  weak  con- 
dition, —  I  rose  from  the  meal  with  as  keen  an  appetite  as 
I  brought  to  it.  I  again  expressed  to  Mr.  Hall,  on  learn- 
ing his  name,  my  gratitude  at  finding  myself,  through  his 
timely  assistance,  among  friends,  though  a  stranger.  He 
cordially  sympathized  with  me,  observing  that  he  had  been 
a  prisoner  among  the  Patagonians  for  one  day  only,  but  had 
seen  enough  in  that  short  time  to  be  convinced  that  a  life 
of  ninety-seven  days  with  them  must  have  been  dreadful 
indeed. 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  167 

.Vfter  supper  the  boat  was  hauled  up  on  the  island.  Pipes 
and  tobacco  were  furnished,  and  I  passed  in  the  society  of 
my  deliverers  one  of  the  happiest  evenings  of  my  whole 
life.  The  change  was  so  great,  from  the  miserable  and 
almost  hopeless  existence  I  had  so  long  lived,  that  my  joy 
exceeded  all  bounds.  My  heart  overflowed  with  gratitude. 
Words  could  not  then,  and  cannot  now,  convey  any  ade- 
quate impression  of  my  feelings,  —  of  the  freedom  and  joy 
that  animated  me,  on  being  snatched  from  perils,  privations 
and  enemies,  and  placed,  as  in  a  moment,  in  security,  in 
plenty,  and  in  the  society  of  friends.  It  seemed  like  a 
dream,  the  change  was  so  sudden  and  so  total. 

The  little  house  which  for  the  present  I  called  my  home, 
and  which,  in  fact,  appeared  to  me  at  the  time  the  pleasant- 
est  dwelling  I  had  ever  seen,  was  about  twelve  by  fifteen 
feet  upon  the  ground,  built  of  boards  and  scantling,  and 
lined  with  blue  Kentucky  jean.  The  fireplace  was  in  the 
middle  of  one  end,  and  a  door  opened  at  the  opposite  ex- 
tremity. Two  large  closets  were  parted  off,  the  one  used 
as  a  cupboard,  and  the  other  for  stores.  Each  side  was 
lighted  by  a  window  containing  four  panes  of  seven-by-nine 
glass.  Two  comfortable  settees,  probably  saved  from  some 
wreck,  lined  the  sides  of  the  room,  and  a  good-sized  hard- 
wood table  occupied  the  centre.  It  was  floored  overhead, 
and  a  trap-door  opened  into  a  sleeping  apartment,  fitted 
with  two  little  berths,  —  one  for  Mr.  Hall,  and  the  other  for 
Morrison,  the  Scotchman. 

As  we  have  described  the  interior  of  our  snug  little  cot- 
tage, we  will  bestow  a  word  or  two  on  its  exterior  and  sur- 
roundings. Its  cracks  and  joints,  over  the  roof  and  walls, 
were  covered  with  strips  of  tarr*1  i  duck,  and  battened  with 
14* 


168  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

narrow  pieces  of  thin  board.  It  was  situated  on  a  little 
mound  of  guano,  perhaps  four  feet  high,  and  was  banked  up 
to  the  windows  with  the  same  material.  The  height  of  the 
walls  above  the  embankment  was  about  seven  feet,  the  em- 
bankment three  feet  more.  A  ship's  bell  was  suspended  on 
the  north-east  corner  of  the  house,  to  notify  the  workmen 
of  the  hours  of  labor  and  of  their  meals.  Sea  Lion  Island, 
as  it  is  called,  —  the  name  "  Holland  "  was  probably  cor- 
rupted by  the  Indians,  from  the  word  island,  indistinctly 
pronounced  in  their  hearing,  —  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter long  from  north  to  south,  with  an  average  width  of  an 
3ighth  of  a  mile,  and  is  covered  over  its  entire  surface  with 
low  evergreen  bushes.  The  settlement  was  made  by  an 
English  company,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  guano  and 
preparing  it  for  exportation,  and  was  situated  on  the  south- 
ern extremity. 

Our  social  evening  was  prolonged  to  a  late  hour,  the  mo- 
ments sped  by  the  stimulus  of  novel  enjoyment.  One  of 
the  settees  was  assigned  for  my  couch,  bed-clothes  were 
provided,  and  a  bag  filled  with  ships'  colors  and  other  ar- 
ticles served  for  a  pillow.  Before  committing  ourselves  to 
repose,  however,  we  discussed  the  probability  of  an  inva- 
sion from  the  continent,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
nothing  was  to  be  feared  in  that  quarter  before  morning. 
Old  Boy  and  his  party,  it  was  obvious,  would  have  to 
return  to  the  main  body  of  the  tribe  for  reinforcements  and 
naval  equipage  before  attempting  pursuit,  as  they  had  no 
materials  for  the  construction  of  boats  or  rafts,  even  if  they 
would  dare  to  tempt  salt  water  in  their  leathern  sacks.  We 
accordingly  dismissed  the  subject  for  the  time,  and  Mr.  Hall 
and  the  Scotchman,  having  cared  for  my  eovafort  with  mix- 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  169 

ious  kindness,  disappeared  through  the  trap-door,  leaving 
behind  a  friendly  benediction.  The  little  cottage  was  warm ; 
my  couch  was  the  perfection  of  comfort,  in  contrast  with 
that  which  had  been  my  lot  for  ninety-seven  wretched 
nights.  Above  all,  for  the  first  time  in  so  many  weeks,  1 
could  lie  down  without  the  fear  of  treachery  and  violence. 
I  was  secure  from  savages.  This  indeed  was  luxury.  1 
slept  soundly,  vying  in  the  profundity  of  slumber  with 
the  immortal  seven,  till  late  in  the  morning.  Daylight 
at  length  had  dispossessed  the  darkness  of  every  part  of  the 
interior,  and  I  awoke.  It  was  no  dream.  I  was  indeed 
free.  Rude  but  unmistakable  evidences  of  civilization 
surrounded  me.  The  adventures  of  the  preceding  day 
flashed  vividly  on  my  hitherto  clouded  mind,  —  the  sus- 
pense, the  struggle,  the  seasonable  rescue,  the  rejoicing  wel- 
come, the  spontaneous  and  subduing  kindnesses,  —  and  a 
warm  gush  of  tender  and  grateful  emotion  from  my  inmost 
soul  thrilled  and  suffused  my  whole  being.  While  these 
emotions  were  subsiding  from  the  fervor  of  their  first  im- 
pulse, and  the  mind  was  gliding  away  into  a  delicious  and 
confused  revery,  wherein  all  manner  of  delight  seemed  to 
encircle  me  as  with  an  atmosphere,  in  whose  genial  glow 
all  past  suffering  existed  only  for  the  heightening  of  pres- 
ent enjoyment,  the  trap-door  overhead  was  lifted,  and  my 
generous  friends  dropped  down  with  a  hearty  saluta- 
tion. I  sprang  from  my  couch,  as  good  as  new,  and 
younger  than  ever.  A  cheerful  coal-fire  was  soon  burning 
in  the  grate,  the  room  was  swept,  breakfast  was  brought  in 
and  despatched,  the  bell  rang,  and  the  men  issued  forth  to 
their  daily  labors,  while  I  went  out  to  explore  my  new 
abode. 


170  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

The  island  is  low  and  flat,  and  at  high  water  its  surface 
is  only  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  water-line  ;  but  the  tide 
here  rises  and  falls  about  the  same  height  as  at  the  eastern 
mouth  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  —  nearly  forty-two  feet. 
Within  twenty-five  feet  of  our  house  was  a  small  store- 
house and  shed,  a  hog-sty,  and  a  large  stone  oven.  About 
the  same  distance  further  on,  was  a  house  for  work- 
men, framed  of  timber,  and  roofed  and  laid  up  at  the  sides 
with  bushes ;  and  the  sides  were  banked  and  the  roof  coated 
with  earth,  an  old  sail  forming  the  topmost  and  outermost 
feature  of  the  edifice,  —  except  that  on  one  extremity  of  the 
roof  a  headless  barrel  communicated  with  the  fireplace, 
and  did  duty  very  respectably  as  chimney  and  ventilator. 
There  were  no  windows ;  the  men,  and  whatever  portion  of 
light  and  air  sufficed  them,  found  ingress  and  egress  through 
a  door  in  one  end.  It  was  most  evidently  made  for  use,  not 
for  show  ;  but  appeared  to  be  very  comfortable,  and  was 
neatly  fitted  up  with  berths  and  benches,  a  table  and  cook- 
ing apparatus.  Its  occupants  were  eight  in  number,  — 
three  Frenchmen,  two  Spaniards,  an  Englishman,  a  Welsh- 
man and  an  Irishman  ;  so  that,  the  island  having  adopted 
(for  a  season,  at  least)  a  representative  of  the  "  universal 
Yankee  nation,"  may  be  thought  to  have  brought  together 
samples  from  a  pretty  considerable  part  of  mankind. 

Besides  these  human  specimens,  the  settlement  boasted 
of  a  dog,  two  mature  porkers,  and  a  litter  of  pigs.  Near  the 
house  was  a  large  heap  of  guano,  prepared  and  ready  for 
shipping  to  England  and  the  United  States.  The  men  were 
at  work  hard  by  digging  it  up.  It  lies  on  the  surface  of 
the  ground  to  a  depth  of  from  one  to  three  feet ;  is  dug  up 
and  conveyed  u  barrows  tc  a  cleared  spot,  where  it  lies  in 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  171 

heaps,  to  be  sifted.  vStones,  feathers,  sticks,  and  other 
foreign  substances,  are  carefully  removed,  the  larger  lumps 
are  broken  up,  and  the  cleared  guano  is  spread  out  in  a 
thin  layer  ;  when  thoroughly  dried,  it  is  covered  up  with 
planks.  The  business  was  carried  on  by  Captain  Matthew 
S.  White,  an  Englishman,  who  had  then  been  absent  foi% 
several  months  at  Montevideo,  whither  he  had  gone  to 
procure  vessels  for  conveying  the  guano  already  prepared, 
now  amounting  to  some  fifteen  hundred  tons,  to  market. 
The  time  he  fixed  for  his  return  had  expired  a  month 
before  my  advent  upon  the  island,  and  Mr.  Hall  was 
beginning  to  feel  very  anxious  for  him,  fearing  lest  some 
accident  had  befallen  him,  and  anxious  for  himself  and 
his  company,  also,  as  they  had  but  a  few  months'  provis- 
ions ;  the  island  was  rarely  visited  by  vessels,  and  their 
only  means  of  reaching  any  port,  in  case  of  extremity, 
were  the  ship's  long-boat,  and  a  whale-boat,  both  too  small 
to  undertake  so  long  a  voyage  with  any  hope  of  safety. 

The  possibility  that  my  late  hospitable  friends  on  the 
main  land  might  be  led,  by  their  high  consideration  for  me, 
to  visit  "  Holland  "  in  a  body,  kept  us  busy,  during  the  day, 
in  making  preparations  to  receive  them  with  appropriate 
honors.  Mr.  Hall,  who  was  left  in  charge  of  the  settlement 
•during  the  absence  of  the  proprietor,  observed  that  Captain 
White  had  often  expressed  apprehensions  that  the  Indians 
would  come  upon  the  island,  some  time  when  he  was  away, 
and  murder  all  hands.  My  slipping  from  them  in  the  manner 
I  had  was  not  an  event  likely  to  dissuade  them  from  the  at- 
tempt, or  weaken  their  motives  for  making  it.  There  were 
two  swivels  in  the  camp,  which  we  mounted  upon  wheelbar- 
row?, to  serve  as  flying  artillery.  I  ground  sharp  an  old 


172  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

whaling-harpoon,  and  fixed  a  handle  to  it;  this  was  slung 
over  my  couch;  and  a  large  sheath-knife,  for  use  in  case  we 
got  to  close  quarters,  reposed  under  my  pillow.  "The  Indians 
were  prowling  about  the  shore,  probably  expecting  to  see 
me  reappear  among  them,  laden  with  the  rum  and  tobacco 
they  came  after,  and  which  they  had  earned  by  boarding 
and  lodging  me  so  long,  and  by  the  multiplied  kindnesses 
with  which  they  beguiled  the  months  of  my  residence 
among  them.  It  is  likely  they  think,  by  this  time,  that  I 
have  been  gone  a  long  time  for  it. 

Before  retiring  for  the  night,  we  loaded  our  swivels  to 
the  muzzle,  and  fired  them,  to  let  our  neighbors  know  that 
we  had  the  wherewithal  to  give  them  a  warm  reception, 
should  they  see  fit  to  make  us  a  visit.  We  then  reloaded 
the  pieces,  each  with  a  dozen  or  more  large  bullets,  placed 
them  ready  primed  at  the  door,  and  covered  the  primings, 
to  keep  our  powder  dry.  We  had  six  or  eight  muskets 
ready  loaded,  enough  to  arm  the  entire  garrison,  with 
plenty  of  ammunition.  The  dog  was  tied  to  the  door- 
handle, to  give  notice  of  danger,  and  the  door  carefully 
secured.  Just  as  we  were  about  retiring,  Bose  gave  a  por- 
tentous bow  wo*w !  but,  on  going  out,  and  taking  a  survey 
of  the  premises,  the  alarm  proved  to  be  false.  All  was 
quiet ;  and,  with  a  momentary  doubt  of  the  sagacity  and 
discretion  of  our  sentinel,  we  lay  down  with  a  sense  of 
security,  —  first  taking  the  axe  into  the  house,  thinking 
that  the  cunning  rogues  might  try  to  burn  us  out,  should 
they  find  the  efforts  to  dislodge  us  otherwise  ineffectual. 
With  this  final  precaution,  our  faithful  sentinel  chained 
to  his  post,  like  a  Chinese  soldier  to  his  gun,  we  were  soon 
sound  asleep.  The  night  passe  1  quietly  away,  without 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  173 

any  further  alarm  from  our  look-out,  who  was  c  f  the  English, 
pointer  breed,  —  a  sleepy,  dough-faced  fellow,  better  quali- 
fied to  show  the  game  than  to  occupy  the  responsible  station 
to  which  he  was  promoted.  He  was  a  great  coward,  but  that 
was  not  altogether  against  him ;  for,  since  the  law  of  self- 
preservation  applies  to  brutes  as  well  as  to  men,  fear  would 
impel  him  to  make  some  kind  of  demonstration  on  the  ap- 
proach of  foes,  if  fidelity  did  not ;  and  one  kind  of  demonstra- 
tion would  be  as  useful  to  us  as  another,  if  only  audible. 

After  breakfast  I  walked  forth,  and  cast  an  anxious  look 
through  the  glass  to  the  northern  shore  of  the  main  land, 
to  see  if  the  Indians  still  occupied  their  position,  and 
whether  they  were  building  boats,  or  making  any  other 
preparations  for  invasion.  There  they  were,  —  the  patient 
creatures !  —  still  posted  in  view  of  our  quarters,  the 
English  flag  flying  on  the  beach.  There  were  several  dogs 
on  the  shore,  and  among  them  I  recognized  my  own ;  I 
almost  fancied  I  could  hear  him  barking.  As  we  brought 
no  dogs  with  us,  I  concluded  that  they  had  gone  back  to 
the  main  body,  and  got  a  reinforcement,  with  materials  for 
boat-building,  and  brought  my  dog  for  the  especial  gratifi- 
cation of  his  affectionate  master  ;  and  now  he  was  capering 
about  on  the  shore,  as  if  to  call  me  back.  Having  suffi- 
ciently gratified  my  curiosity  in  this  direction,  I  turned 
the  glass  seaward,  in  hope  to  view  some  approaching  sail 
but  the  broad  expanse  was  clear,  —  no  vessel  to  be  seen 
On  the  river  banks  a  few  stray  guanacos  were  cropping  the 
scanty,  rank  grass,  while  others,  with  their  young,  were 
lying  on  the  sunny  slopes  of  the  sand-hills.  The  quiet  of 
these  animals  assured  me  that  their  inveterate  enemies, 
the  Indians,  were  not  in  the  vicinity. 


174  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

Tired,  at  length,  of  this  sort  of  sight-seeing,  I  returned 
to  the  house,  and,  taking  our  guns,  started  with  Mr.  Hall 
on  a  stroll  up  the  island,  hoping  to  shoot  some  sea-fowl ; 
hut  returned  at  noon,  unsuccessful.  The  afternoon  was 
spent  in  wandering  aimlessly  over  the  island,  killing  time. 
Walking  about  on  the  sea-shore,  I  picked  up  some  clear, 
transparent  stones,  coated  on  the  outside  with  a  kind  of 
crust ;  some  of  them  are  very  hard,  and,  when  broken,  cu* 
glass  like  a  diamond.  I  wrote  my  name,  and  place  of 
residence,  on  a  window  of  our  little  cottage,  with  a  frag- 
ment of  one;  they  are  mostly  white,  some  of  them  of  a 
vermilion,  and  others  of  a  straw  color ;  they  are,  I  sup- 
pose, a  variety  of  quartz.  The  shore  is,  in  some  places, 
covered  with  these  pebbles  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three 
feet,  on  an  average  of  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  the  hardest 
specimens  were  not  abundant,  but  I  collected  about  a 
hundred  of  them.  I  might  have  picked  up  many  more,  if 
they  had  possessed  any  special  value. 

A  further  examination  of  the  opposite  shore  disclosed 
Indians  still  prowling  about,  and  I  proposed  to  Mr.  Hall 
to  go  over,  with  the  men,  and  give  them  a  sound  drubbing. 
Revenge,  I  know,  is  said  to  dwell  in  little  minds ;  if  so, 
my  abode  in  Patagonia  must  have  dwarfed  and  contracted 
my  own  intellect  for  the  time  being,  for  I  mast  confess  to 
the  consciousness  of  a  desire  to  visit  upon  them  some  ap- 
propriate return  for  what  they  had  inflicted  upon  me.  Mr. 
Hall  admitted  the  ill-desert  of  the  Indians,  and  the  entire 
rightfulness  of  a  severe  chastisement ;  but,  not  having  the 
same  stimulus  to  heat  his  blood  that  burned  within  me,  he 
viewed  the  question  with  a  more  strict  regard  to  prudence, 
and  was  altogether  disinclined  to  undertake  so  hazardous 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  75 

an  expedition  ;  he  dreaded  going  any  nearer  to  the  sav- 
ages than  was  necessary.  I  would,  myself,  rather  'nave 
been  shot  than  fall  into  their  hands  a  second  time ;  but 
contended  that  the  approach  of  the  boat  would  bring  them 
to  the  shore,  and  enable  us  to  do  them  a  mischief  from  tne 
boat,  without  any  necessity  of  landing  among  them.  True, 
the  Indians  might  succeed  in  getting  upon  the  island  some 
night,  and  effect  our  destruction ;  there  certainly  was 
nothing  to  prevent  it,  if  they  had  the  least  ingenuity,  and 
a  moderate  share  of  courage ;  but  I  knew  them  to  be 
a  gang  of  arrant  cowards,  and  the  reader  may  judge  of 
their  inventiveness  by  the  preceding  narrative.  The  sub- 
ject was  discussed  till  late  in  the  evening,  and  the  needful 
preparations  and  precautions  were  thoroughly  talked  over. 
When  about  to  retire  for  the  night,  we  went  out  and  looked 
for  our  vigilant  sentinel,  whose  due  place,  in  right  of  his 
office,  should  have  been  at  the  door.  Recreant  to  his  trust, 
the  rascal  had  deserted,  to  take  up  his  night's  lodging 
with  the  pigs.  He  was  soon  hustled  out  of  his  nest,  and 
compelled  to  return  to  the  door,  there  to  be  tied,  as  on  the 
preceding  night,  to  the  handle.  His  choice  of  such  mean 
company  greatly  lowered  the  animal  in  my  estimation. 
While  fixing  him  in  his  place,  we  perceived  a  light  on  the 
north  shore  f  it  appeared  to  be  carried  about  from  place  to 
place,  and  was  at  some  distance  from  the  Indians'  wig- 
wams. This  had  much  the  appearance  of  preparation  for 
a  nocturnal  visit  from  the  rascals,  —  a  symptom  of  boat- 
building. From  my  observation  of  their  habits  while 
among  them,  I  was  convinced  that  something  extraordi- 
nary was  on  foot ;  they  were  not  much  in  the  habit  of 
moving  about  after  dark,  with  01  without  lights,  and 
15 


176  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

nothing  but  the  pressure  of  an  unaccustomed  purpose  could 
have  made  them  so  enterprising  now.  We  uncovered  the 
priming  of  our  swivels,  and  greased  their  muzzles,  to  make 
them  speak  in  a  louder  tone  of  warning  and  defiance  to  the 
enemy  ;  they  were  discharged  with  a  loud  report,  that 
made  the  island  ring,  and  must  have  resounded  with  effect 
upon  the  hostile  shore.  The  guns  were  reloaded,  primed, 
and  mounted  upon  their  carriages  at  the  door.  The  lights 
that  bad  drawn  forth  this  sonorous  demonstration  speedily 
disappeared  ;  the  Indians,  it  was  presumed,  had  taken  the 
bint,  and  abandoned  or  postponed  their  undertaking,  what- 
ever it  might  have  been.  I  well  knew  their  dread  of  big 
guns.  When  I  attempted,  at  first,  to  persuade  them  to  go 
with  me  to  Port  Famine,  the  chief  reason  assigned,  besides 
the  superior  advantages  of  "  Holland,"  was,  that  there  were 
big  guns  there,  which  were  "  no  good  for  Indians."  A 
council  of  war  came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  was 
nothing  to  be  feared  from  them  that  night,  and  we  there- 
upon retired. 

If  our  careful  preparations  seem  to  belie  my  expressed 
belief  of  their  cowardice,  it  should  be  remembered  that 
they  had  once  fleshed  their  swords,  if  not  their  teeth,  in 
the  bodies  of  some  white  men,  and  had  held,  for  a  brief 
period,  islanders  in  their  custody;  they  were  numerous, 
and  might  so  far  confide  in  their  numbers  and  strength  as 
to  dare  the  attempt  to  wreak  their  disappointments  fully 
upon  our  heads.  Our  caution  was  reasonable,  and,  at  the 
time,  was  not  excessive  in  degree.  In  the  morning  we 
made  a  careful  survey  of  the  premises,  exploring  all  the 
sheds,  and  every  other  place  where  an  enemy  could  have 
gecreted  himself,  but  made  no  discoveries.  We  walked 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  177 

over  the  island,  and  examined  the  opposite  shore ;  but  per- 
ceived nothing  strange  or  alarming,  except  that  the  Indians 
still  remained  in  their  quarters,  and  that  their  numbers 
had  greatly  increased. 

The  question  of  crossing  over  and  driving  them  off  was 
revived  after  breakfast,  but,  after  considerable  talk,  no 
definite  conclusion  was  reached,  and  I  spent  the  day 
wandering  over  the  island,  gunning  and  picking  up  rare 
stones,  occasionally  surveying  the  coast  through  the  glass. 
At  night  no  lights  appeared  opposite ;  and  having  made 
our  usual  preparations  against  a  nocturnal  attack,  we  de- 
cided that  if  the  black  rascals  did  not  speedily  jJck  up 
their  traps,  and  make  themselves  "  scarce,"  we  would  go 
over  and  hurry  their  movements.  Mr.  Hall  -found  his 
loyalty  stirring  within  him,  in  aid  of  revenge.  He  said  it 
was  too  much  to  see  that  blood-stained  British  flag  flying 
among  such  a  miserable  set  of  creatures,  bringing  freshly 
before  his  mind  the  forms  of  his  slaughtered  countrymen. 
This  sentiment  I  was  prompt  to  encore,  arid  to  enforce  the 
propriety  of  an  invasion  to  wrest  the  trophy  from  their 
hands.  This  was  determined  upon  for  the  next  day,  unless 
they  should  sooner  relieve  us  of  their  presence. 

The  day  dawned  with  a  cloudy  sky  and  a  thick  atmos- 
phere, which  made  it  impossible  to  see  distinctly  for  any 
distance.  Towards  noon  it  cleared  up,  and  we  discovered 
that  our  troublesome  neighbors  were  still  there.  We 
thereupon  set  about  the  necessary  preparations  for  a  move- 
ment, immediately  after  dinner.  Arms  and  equipment 
were  appointed,  knives  sharpened,  guns  put  in  order  and 
stacked  against  the  house  ;  —  the  bell  rang  for  dinner,  and 
we  ate  with  appetites  sharpened  by  excitement.  But,  on 


178  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

going  oit,  and  taking  a  final  look  through  the  glass  before 
embarking,  we  observed  the  Indians  catching  their  horses. 
They  speedily  mounted  their  beasts,  and  rode  off.  Our  an- 
ticipated valor  was  soon  cooled.  They  had  slipped  away 
without  giving  us  a  chance  to  do  anything  for  revenge,  for 
justice,  or  for  the  honor  of  the  captive  flag.  On  the  whole, 
we  were  not  sorry  to  abandon  the  expedition,  though  it 
seemed  to  me  that  our  chances  of  security  were  not  much 
improved  by  their  departure.  They  would  be  very  likely 
to  lurk  in  the  vicinity,  and  to  return  with  full  preparations 
for  crossing  and  landing  upon  the  island.  Perhaps  their 
movement  was  only  a  ruse  to  put  us  off  our  guard.  Such 
thoughts  crowded  my  mind ;  but  there  was  no  use  in 
borrowing  trouble,  and  I  dismissed  them. 

The  men  returned  to  their  work,  and  I  set  myself  to 
devise  some  employment.  I  had  become  tired  of  idleness, 
and  offered  to  assist  in  the  preparation  of  guano ;  but  Mr. 
Hall  interposed  a  decided  veto.  He  wished  me,  he  said,  to 
make  myself  entirely  contented,  and  as  comfortable  as 
possible.  But  the  sort  of  life  I  was  leading  was  very 
decidedly  uncomfortable  ;  and  I  entreated  so  earnestly  to 
be  allowed  to  make  myself  useful  in  some  way,  that  he  set 
me  to  make  a  row-lock  for  a  boat,  or  a  few  thole-pins,  or 
some  other  trivial  things,  that  served  to  occupy  attention 
and  divert  the  mind.  Then  our  cottage  wanted  a  new 
floor,  and  some  alterations  were  found  necessary  about  the 
premises.  When  everything  was  done,  and  no  more  was 
suggested,  I  was  desired  to  go  a  gunning,  to  vary  the 
supplies  for  the  table,  or  to  take  a  basket  and  pick  the  tops 
of  the  bushes  for  pickling.  The  bushes,  which  are  ever- 
green, have  on  their  tops  little  clusters  not  unlike  bar- 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  179 

berries,  that  make  a  very  fine  pickle.  Several  jars  were 
filled,  and  furnished  an  excellent  condiment  for  our 
suppers. 

Time  passed  on,  and  the  non-arrival  of  Captain  White 
made  it  drag  slowly.  I  had  thought  to  take  passage  in  one 
of  the  guano  vessels  to  Rio  Janeiro,  or  some  other  South 
American  port,  from  which  it  might  be  easy  to  obtain  a 
passage  for  California.  In  default  of  other  occupation,  the 
large  lighter,  which  lay  up  the  creek,  two-thirds  the  length 
of  the  island,  was  brought  down  opposite  the  house  for 
repair,  to  be  in  readiness  to  load  the  ships  when  they 
should  arrive.  Their  delay  threatened  us  with  famine, 
moreover,  and  it  was  beginning  to  be  felt  as  a  very  serious 
matter.  To  add  to  our  troubles,  the  scurvy  broke  out 
among  the  men,  in  consequence  of  living  on  salt  provisions, 
without  vegetables.  They  had  been  recommended,  as  a 
preventive,  to  make  and  eat  freely  of  the  pickle  just  de- 
scribed ;  but,  either  from  want  of  faith  in  the  virtue  of  the 
prescription,  or  because  it  was  too  much  trouble,  they  had 
neglected  to  do  so,  and  now  found  themselves  in  a  poor 
plight. 

About  the  same  time,  as  troubles 

"  come  not  single  spies, 
But  in  battalions," 

Mr.  Hall  was  informed  by  the  Welshman,  who  appeared 
very  friendly,  that  Morrison,  the  Scotchman,  was  trying  to 
prejudice  the  Frenchmen  and  Spaniards  against  him,  and 
inciting  the  men  to  mutiny.  The  man  had  lived  in  the 
house  and  been  treated  like  a  gentleman,  and  this  was  all 
the  return  he  made  for  the  preference  shown  him.  Sawney's 


180  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

goods  and  chattels  were  forthwith  thrown  out  of  doors,  and 
he  was  ordered  to  take  his  bed  and  board  with  the  men. 
He  took  this  descent  in  the  world  very  much  to  heart,  and 
when  I  talked  with  him  on  the  impropriety  of  his  conduct, 
appeared  quite  penitent.  I  strongly  advised  Mr.  Hall  to 
*ake  him  back  into  the  house ;  for,  though  he  had  proved 
treacherous,  it  was  better,  after  all,  to  have  him  under  our 
immediate  watch  than  with  the  men,  as  he  might,  in  a 
short  time,  infect  the  whole  company.  After  much  coaxing, 
consent  was  given  to  his  return,  and  he  replaced  his  things 
in  the  house  with  much  apparent  gratitude.  He  was  told 
that  he  must  show  himself  an  honest  man,  and  labor  to 
undo  the  mischief  he  had  done,  if  he  had  any  care  of  his 
personal  safety ;  for  should  any  trouble  break  out,  and  the 
sacrifice  of  life  become  necessary,  his  would  be  the  first. 
He  faithfully  promised,  and,  I  doubt  not,  exerted  himself 
to  allay  discontents  and  prevent  any  outbreak.  With  the 
Spaniards  he  was  successful ;  but  the  Frenchmen  were  more 
turbulent,  and  determined  on  a  rupture.  They  complained 
that  their  allowance  of  food  was  insufficient,  and  threatened 
to  break  into  the  store-house  and  help  themselves.  Mr. 
Hall  had  served  out  their  daily  rations  of  meat,  bread  and 
flour,  by  weight,  according  to  the  directions  of  Captain 
White.  The  quantity  I  have  forgotten,  but  remember  Mr. 
Hall  saying  that  it  was  the  same  as  is  allowed  per  man  in 
the  British  navy.  When  the  bell  rang  for  work  the  next 
morning,  the  Welshman  and  Irishman  alone  went.  The 
Spaniards  said  that  they  had  the  scurvy  so  badly  they 
were  unable  to  work ;  the  Frenchmen  marched  up  to  the 
house,  and  peremptorily  demanded  more  flour.  Mr.  Hall 
met  thorn  at  the  d(  or ;  and,  in  reply,  told  them  that  they 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  181 

had  the  same  food,  in  quality  and  quantity,  with  all  the 
others,  iimself  included,  and  that  the  allowance  for  the 
house  prDved  to  be  more  than  we  needed.  None  of  the 
other  men  complained,  and  their  complaints  could  not  be 
listened  to  by  him.  They  had  all  that  Captain  White 
allowed,  and,  if  they  were  not  satisfied,  they  could  appeal  to 
him  when  he  returned,  which  would  undoubtedly  be  very 
soon.  Meanwhile  he  advised  them  "  to  be  quiet,  and  do 
their  own  business."  They  left  in  a  very  wrathful  mood, 
not  to  their  work,  but  to  their  quarters,  and  to  idle  away 
the  rest  of  the  day  in  sauntering  up  and  down  the  island. 
They  went  on  in  this  way  for  nearly  a  week,  and  at  last 
consented  to  return  to  duty,  under  a  promise  that  nothing 
should  be  deducted  from  their  wages,  which  was  given  as  a 
matter  of  prudence.  It  was  not  thought  safe,  in  present 
circumstances,  to  strain  authority  over  them.  Nothing 
occurred  to  give  serious  uneasiness,  though  the  men  were  so 
touchy  and  quarrelsome  as  to  raise  a  slight  tempest,  now 
and  then.  On  one  occasion,  Mr.  Hall  had  been  with  three 
men  up  the  creek,  seven  or  eight  miles,  after  fresh  water, 
which  could  only  be  obtained  at  that  distance  and  boated 
down  to  the  settlement.  While  we  were  unlading  the 
boat,  a  row  was  kicked  up  between  one  of  the  Frenchmen 
and  the  Welshman.  Taffy,  who  was  a  thorough  seaman, 
when  adjusting  the  rop:s  to  the  casks,  was  assailed  by  one 
of  the  Frenchmen  with  some  derogatory  remark  touching 
his  seamanship,  prompted  by  his  mode  of  "  putting  on  the 
parbuckle."  The  critic  attempted  to  take  the  rope  into  his 
own  hands,  by  way  of  enforcing  and  exemplifying  his  view 
of  the  process ;  and  the  two  were  on  the  point  of  settling 
the  question  in  a  summary  fashion,  in  a  spirit  which  it 
required  some  effort  to  quell. 


182  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

The  Indians  still  hovered  in  the  vicinity  of  the  further 
shore,  as  the  smoke  of  their  fires  plainly  indicated,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  keep  up  our  preparations  for  defence. 
There  was  nothing  to  prevent  them  from  paying  us  a  visit 
but  their  cowardice ;  and  knowing  their  revengeful  tempers, 
and  the  tenacity  of  their  purposes,  —  the  long-lived  malice 
with  which  they  were  capable  of  pursuing  any  evil  designs, 
—  it  seemed  not  unlikely  that,  smarting  under  the  disap- 
pointment I  had  caused  them,  their  resentment  would  prove 
strong  enough  to  overcome  their  timidity.  In  this  connec- 
tion I  had  an  unpleasant  thought,  now  and  then,  of  a  hint 
given  them  while  we  were  on  our  way  to  "  Holland." 
When  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  shore,  I  picked  up  a  bit 
of  plank,  and  somewhat  rashly,  in  the  impetuosity  of  desire 
to  contrive  ways  and  means  to  get  to  the  island,  in  case 
the  islanders  could  not  be  attracted  towards  us,  told  the 
Indians  that,  if  we  could  find  two  or  three  more  of  the  same 
sort,  I  could  bind  them  together  and  make  a  raft,  on  which 
I  might  be  paddled  over  to  "  Holland."  I  informed  them, 
moreover,  what  was  the  most  favorable  time  for  crossing; 
namely,  at  the  last  of  the  tide,  as  the  distance  to  be  passed 
would  be  less,  and  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  effecting 
a  landing  on  the  island.  No  additional  materials  presented 
themselves,  and  the  scheme  was  given  up ;  happily  there 
was  no  need  of  it.  But,  less  happily,  it  now  occurred  to 
me  that  what  I  then  spoke  in  my  own  behoof  might  be 
turned  by  the  Indians  to  theirs,  to  our  no  small  danger,  in 
case  a  more  earnest  and  vigorous  search  should  disclose, 
along-shore,  more  abundant  materials  for  extemporizing 
transport  craft. 

Some  of  the  men   became  so  sorely  afflicted   with  the 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  183 

scurvy  that  we  decided  to  land  on  tlie  south  shore  and 
chase  some  of  the  guanaco  for  fresh  provision.  Two  of  the 
Frenchmen  accompanied  us.  Just  as  we  were  getting  off, 
their  countryman  who  was  left  behind  came  running  to  us, 
with  angry  jabber  and  gesture,  vociferating  that  one  of 
them  had  his  gun.  He  seized  it  and  was  taking  it  out  of 
the  boat,  when  the  party  dispossessed  of  it  disputed  his 
progress,  and  a  regular  French  fight  of  kicking  and  fisticuffs 
ensued,  which  we  had  difiiculty  in  subduing.  At  last  we 
got  off,  but  discovered  only  a  lone  guanaco  in  a  hollow  be- 
tween the  hills.  We  posted  ourselves  to  surround  him  for 
a  shot.  When  he  came  out  I  had  a  fine  chance  at  him  as  he 
crossed  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  made  quite  sure  of  him. 
Unluckily,  the  flint-lock  missed  fire,  and,  before  it  was  pos- 
sible to  burn  any  powder,  our  expected  prey  escaped.  We 
cruised  about  for  several  miles,  and  returned  home  tired 
and  empty. 

The  men  continued  their  work,  as  usual,  the  next  day  ; 
but  a  storm  was  brewing.  On  the  following  morning  the 
Frenchmen  marched-up  to  the  house,  and  demanded  their 
wages.  They  were  told  by  Mr.  Hall  that  he  had  none  of 
the  proprietor's  money,  nor  any  authority  to  settle  with 
them.  Then  they  would  work  no  longer.  Very  well,  they 
were  told,  they  might  let  work  alone,  but  their  wages  and 
rations  could  not  be  meddled  with  on  demand.  So  they 
indulged  in  another  season  of  idleness  and  mischief.  Their 
first  revenge  was  taken  on  old  "  John,"  the  horse.  On  the 
second  day  of  their  mutiny  the  poor  animal  was  seen  to 
halt ;  a  hamstring  was  cut.  He  wa£  very  fat,  and  was  prob- 
ably marked. by  tl  3m  for  food,  in  default  of  fresh  provision. 
At  all  even's,  Mr.  Hall  ordered  him,  as  he  was  useless,  to  be 


184  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

go  dealt  with.  The  men's  rations  were  ssrved  out,  and  the 
rest  was  laid  up  in  the  store-house  for  future  use.  "  Horse- 
beef  "  has  a  strong  and  singular  flavor.  I  had  become 
accustomed  to  such  diet  among  the  Patagonians,  though 
never  privileged  to  partake  of  so  fat  a  specimen  as  old  John. 
Not  knowing  to  what  height  the  mutinous  spirit  of  his  men 
might  carry  them,  Mr.  Hall  wrote  a  brief  statement  of  his 
affairs,  and  an  account  of  my  arrival  on  the  island,  and  en- 
closed them,  together  with  what  money  and  valuable  papers 
he  had,  in  a  tin  box,  which  he  buried  at  night  in  a  guano- 
heap.  That  would  certainly  be  removed  on  Capt.  White's 
arrival,  or  by  some  one  else,  if  he  never  returned;  so  that 
our  tale  would  not  be  lost,  even  though  we  should  not  sur- 
\ive  to  tell  it.  The  desperate  character  of  the  men,  —  all  but 
on-e  or  two  of  whom,  as  we  had  reason  to  believe,  had  left 
their  country  for  their  country's  good, —  and  the  recklessness 
of  their  behavior,  made  our  situation  rather  ticklish.  Our 
fear  of  the  Indians,  moreover,  was  not  laid  entirely  to  sleep, 
though  all  visible  tokens  of  their  neighborhood  to  us  had  dis- 
appeared. By  passing  up  and  crossing  the  river,  they  might 
approach  us  from  the  south  shore,  which  was  separated  from 
the  island  by  a  channel  not  more  than  half  as  broad  as  that 
on  the  opposite  side.  The  bank,  to  be  sure,  was  steep  and 
muddy,  involving  the  risk  that  they  would  be  hopelessly 
bemired  in  attempting  to  land  ;  but  this  was  a  weak  security 
against  them,  if  they  were  resolute  enough  to  make  the 
effort.  Nothing  occurred  for  several  days  to  break  the 
monotony  of  life.  No  work  was  done ;  the  men  received 
their  allowances  f.wice  a  week,  spending  their  time  in  wan- 
dering over  the  island.  The  large  boat  needed  rep^rs,  but 
they  rendered  no  aid.  We  took  advantage  of  high  water, 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  185 

rove  tackles,  and,  by  the  help  of  rollers,  drew  it  up  high 
and  dry  on  the  land.  When  it  was  finished, — through 
fear  that  the  men  might  seize  it  and  make  off  to  some  place 
northward,  thus  depriving  us  of  our  only  means  of  escape, 
if  our  provisions  should  be  exhausted  before  Capt.  White's 
return,  —  it  was  turned  over,  and  the  sails  and  oars  were 
secured,  as  far  as  possible,  from  depredation. 

Old  John  was  devoured,  to  the  partial  relief  of  the  com- 
pany ;  but  some  were  still  badly  affected  with  scurvy.  Yet 
we  were  afraid  to  go  any  distance  in  search  of  fresh  pro- 
visions, on  account  of  the  risk  of  finding  Indians  about.  The 
carcass  of  a  guanaco,  just  killed  by  the  dogs,  was  picked  up 
in  time  to  afford  a  sensible  alleviation  of  suffering,  and'  to 
replenish  our  rapidly  wasting  stock  of  provisions.  Indians 
without,  discontent  and  mutiny  within,  and  the  possibility 
of  famine,  together,  would  have  made  the  island  anything 
but  a  paradise  to  one  who  had  not  so  lately  escaped  the 
purgatorial  pains  of  a  Patagonian  captivity.  The  first  of 
these  disagreeables,  however,  began  to  be  less  vividly  felt. 
We  got  tired  of  sweeping  the  horizon  with  our  glass  in 
search  of  the  smoke  of  their  camp-fires,  or  other  appear- 
ances suggesting  their  vicinity,  and  gradually  relaxed  our 
vigilance.  Bose  was  released  from  his  sentry  duties,  and 
suffered  to  exchange  such  unwilling  service  for  the  society 
of  his  friends  the  pigs.  But  we  still  took  the  axe  into  the 
house  by  night,  and  kept  our  guns  loaded.  The  boat  had 
to  be  launched  once  more,  to  go  up  the  creek  for  water. 
When  it  was  unladed,  we  got  the  aid  of  a  Spaniard  and 
Frenchman  in  drawing  it  on  land,  to  prevent  the  rascals 
from  stealing  it,  by  telling  them  that  it  needed  painting, 
which  was  true  enough.  The  seine  was  next  got  out,  to 


186  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

see  if  some  fish  could  not  be  had  for  the  improvement  of  our 
diet ;  but  we  got  what  is  vulgarly  termed  "  fisherman's 
luck,"  and  spread  the  ineffectual  net  on  the  gravelly  beach 
to  dry.  Grown  desperate,  at  last,  we  decided  that,  Indians 
or  no  Indians,  we  must  have  fresh  provisions,  if  any  were 
to  be  had,  and  manned  the  whale-boat  for  an  expedition  to 
the  continent.  We  landed  on  the  south  shore,  and  succeeded 
in  discovering  and  bringing  down  a  solitary  guanaco.  The 
game  was  dressed,  and  we  returned  to  our  home  in  triumph. 
The  two  following  days  were  chiefly  spent  in  hunting, 
unsuccessfully. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  having  nothing  else 
to  pass  away  the  hours,  I  commenced  repairing  the  lighter, 
but  had  not  been  long  at  work  before  Mr.  Hall  came  down, 
with  a  smile.  "  Look  out  to  sea  !  "  he  exclaimed  ;  "  Captain 
White  is  coming."  I  looked  as  directed,  and  saw  distinctly 
two  sail  approaching.  A  thrill  of  joy  shot  through  me  ;  I 
thought  no  more  of  work  that  day.  An  examination 
through  the  glass  made  them  out  to  be  a  ship  and  a'  fore- 
and-aft  schooner.  Could  it  be  any  one  else  than  Captain 
White  ?  The  island  was  not  frequented  by  vessels  except 
for  guano ;  but  it  seemed  very  strange  to  see  a  schooner,  as 
a  vessel  of  that  rig  was  not  adapted  to  such  a  service.  Mr. 
Hall  began  to  think  it  might  be  some  of  General  Kosas' 
vessels  despatched  to  drive  away  people  engaged  in  taking 
guano  on  the  Patagonian  coast.  It  had  been  reported,  some 
time  before,  that  he  designed  doing  so.  He  heard  the  rumor 
a  few  months  previous  at  Montevideo  ;  and  also  another, 
that  the  Chilian  government  claimed  the  country,  and  were 
determined  to  hold  it. 

The  little  schooner  led  the  way,  considerably  in  advance 


THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  187 

of  the  ship.  As  the  vessels  approached  nearer,  they  pre- 
sented a  decidedly  Yankee  look.  We  watched  them  with 
intense  interest,  as  they  passed  the  shoals,  and  came  up 
with  a  favorable  breeze,  under  a  press  of  sail.  Soon  they 
entered  the  river's  mouth.  •  On  passing  the  north  point 
the  schooner  stood  up,  keeping  the  north  shore,  and  cast 
anchor.  It  was  evident  they  were  not  acquainted  with  the 
navigation,  as  there  is  a  large  shoal  running  from  the 
upper  end  of  the  island  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  they  had  sailed  within  it.  On  discovering  the  error, 
she  attempted  to  keep  off,  but,  in  so  doing,  struck  the 
lower  end  of  the  shoal.  Mr.  Hall  manned  the  boat,  and 
boarded  the  schooner.  She  proved  to  be  the  Washington, 
tender  to  the  ship  Hudson,  Captain  Clift,  of  Mystic,  Con- 
necticut, —  a  whaling  vessel,  just  from  the  Falkland  Islands. 
Mr.  Hall  promised  to  go  on  board  again  during  the  follow- 
ing forenoon,  and  pilot  the  vessel  into  the  channel. 

I  went  with  him  for  this  purpose ;  and,  as  it  was  calm, 
the  anchor  was  hove  aweigh,  and,  with  the  boat  ahead,  we 
towed  the  schooner  across  the  shoal,  which  at  low  water  is 
plainly  to  be  seen,  but  now,  at  flood  tide,  had  plenty  of 
water.  After  getting  into  the  right  position,  the  anchor 
was  dropped,  and  we  spent  the  day  on  board  very  pleas- 
antly. The  weather  held  moderate  till  afternoon.  The 
ship  yet  lay  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  made  slow 
progress  upward.  The  schooner,  the  day  before,  being  so 
far  ahead,  had  only  daylight  and  wind  enough  to  get  in  ; 
and  the  ship,  finding  she  would  be  benighted,  as  the  wind 
sank  with  the  sun,  hauled  on  and  off  during  the  night,  and 
then  lay  with  scarcely  wind  enough  to  fill  the  sails.  A 
smart  breeze,  however,  sprung  up  in  the  afternoon,  and  sha 
16 


L88  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

came  gallantly  into  port,  only  repeating  the  mistake  made 
by  the  schooner  between  the  channels ;  but  got  off  at  night 
with  the  tide,  and,  after  some  delay,  anchored  securely  in 
sufficient  depth  of  water.  As  she  intended  making  some 
stay  in  port,  she  was  subsequently  taken  further  up  to  the 
proper  anchorage,  and  was  moored  on  the  5th  of  October, 
having  come  in  on  the  4th. 

Captain  Clift  had  been  informed  by  the  mate,  who  had 
been  ashore,  and  by  Mr.  Hall,  of  my  misfortunes  and 
adventures  among  the  Patagonians,  and  on  the  following- 
day  sent  a  message  inviting  me  on  board  his  vessel.  He 
received  me  very  cordially,  and  insisted  that  I  should 
make  his  ship  my  home  as  long  as  it  should  suit  my  con- 
venience to  do  so.  I  accepted  his  kind  offer,  first  going  on 
shore,  and  communicating  it  to  my  liberal  benefactor,  Mr. 
Hall.  He  at  once  assented  that  it  would  undoubtedly  be 
pleasanter  to  be  with  my  countrymen.  I  could  not  leave 
him,  however,  without  endeavoring  to  express  my  earnest 
gratitude  for  my  rescue  from  a  captivity  worse  almost  than 
death,  and  for  the  kindly  sympathy  and  generous  hospitality 
that  he  had  exercised  for  two  months.  In  my  destitute 
condition  I  had  nothing  but  thanks  to  give,  and  I  fervently 
hoped  he  might  never  be  in  a  situation  to  need  the  like 
kindness  from  others ;  but  he  was  assured,  that  whenever 
or  however  it  might  be  possible  to  show  my  gratitude  in  a 
more  substantial  manner,  it  would  be  my  happiness  to  do 
so.  He  begged  me  to  give  myself  no  trouble  on  that  score, 
insisted  on  my  retaining  the  articles  of  clothing  with  which 
he  had  supplied  me,  hoped  I  would  come  often  and  see  him 
while  the  vessels  continued  there,  and  I  bade  this  noble 
specimen  of  the  true-hearted  Englishman  a  tearful  good-bj . 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  189 


CHAPTER    X. 

A  Christian  ship-master  —  Cruise  for  whales,  and  for  a  California-bound 
vessel  —  An  outlandish  craft  —  An  American  vessel  —  Passage  secured 
for  California  —  Tempestuous  passage  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan 
—  Warlike  demonstrations,  with  an  inglorious  issue  —  Chilian  penal 
settlement  —  Pleading  reception-  Extensive  coal-mine — Sea-lions  — 
Mutiny  of  the  convicts,  and  awful  fate  of  fche  governor  and  chaplain. 

CAPTAIN  CLIFT  cordially  welcomed  me  to  his  ship,  and  im- 
mediately tendered  me  whatever  I  might  need  for  personal 
comfort.  I  declined  availing  myself  of  his  generosity, 
assuring  him  that  I  could  be  comfortable  with  present  sup- 
plies ;  but  he  insisted  on  replenishing  my  wardrobe,  silencing 
all  objections  by  the  remark  that  I  plainly  needed  the 
articles,  and  that  it  was  a  part  of  our  duty  on  earth  to 
give  to  the  needy.  Captain  Clift  was  a  Christian  in  pre- 
cept and  example.  He  had  daily  prayer  on  board  his  ship, 
and  made  his  religion  an  inseparable  part  of  himself; 
something  more  than  a  profession,  that  did  not  expend 
itself  in  words,  but  found  expression  in  acts  of  kindness  to 
all  within  his  reach.  He  had  on  board  a  poor  sick  Irish 
lad,  who  was  taken  into  the  cabin,  and  nursed  with  all  the 
care  that  circumstances  admitted.  Had  poor  Mike  been 
his  own  son,  he  could  not  have  done  more  for  him.  Such 
acts,  incapable  of  being  traced  to  any  sordid  or  selfish 


190  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

motive,  sprung  spontaneously  from  his  capacious  heart, 
full  to  overflowing  with  the  milk  of  human  kindness.  As 
the  ship  had  been  at  the  Falkland  •  Islands  for  several 
months,  where  they  lived  exclusively  upon  fresh  meat,  it 
seemed  impossible  that  there  should  be  a  case  of  scurvy  on 
board ;  but  the  captain  remarked  that  the  Patagonian 
coast  was  the  worst  he  ever  visited  in  this  respect. 

The  crew,  under  direction  of  the  mate,  a  brother  of  the 
captain,  were  busy  in  landing  cattle,  swine,  empty  casks 
and  other  articles,  to  make  room  on  board  for  trying  out 
whales,  in  case  they  captured  any  more,  for  which  the 
schooner  was  getting  ready  to  cruise  up  and  down  the 
coast.  The  mate  went  in  the  tender  on  her  first  trip  out ; 
but  she  returned,  in  three  or  four  days,  unsuccessful.  A 
second  cruise  was  undertaken,  but  in  a  week's  absence  only 
one  whale  was  discovered,  and  this  they  failed  to  secure. 
A  third  and  still  longer  trip  was  equally  unsuccessful,  and 
they  returned  not  a  little  discouraged.  During  this  time  I 
had  repeatedly  exchanged  visits  with  Mr.  Hall,  and  felt  quite 
comfortable  in  my  new  quarters ;  but  suffered  the  misery  of 
idleness,  and  of  impatience  at  my  detention,  even  among 
such  generous  and  considerate  friends.  Partially  to  relieve 
the  tedium  of  inactivity,  in  compliance  with  an  urgent 
request  for  some  useful  employment,  I  was  allowed  to 
repair  the  ship's  spanker.  But  I  determined  that,  on  the 
next  cruise  of  the  tender,  I  would  take  a  berth,  in  the  hope 
of  falling  in  with  some  vessel  bound  around  Cape  Horn,  or 
to  Montevideo,  Rio  Janeiro,  Pernambuco,  or  any  other 
port  from  which  it  might  be  possible  to  secure  a  passage  to 
California,  —  a  land  I  was  resolved  at  least  to  see,  after 
having  -£ot  s)  far  on  my  way,  though  so  inauspiciously. 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  191 

The  vessel  was  soon  ready  to  sail.  The  evening  before 
our  departure  Mr.  Hall  visited  me,  and  also  came  in  the 
morning,  before  we  were  off ;  —  the  whole-souled  fellow  ! 
I  shall  always  pray  for  his  happiness.  Captain  Clift 
added  to  his  other  kindnesses  by  pressing  upon  me  various 
articles  of  comfort  for  the  voyage,  with  a  nice  clothes-bag 
to  contain  them  all.  I  parted  from  them,  heartily  praying 
a  continuance  of  God's  blessing  on  them  both ;  adding, 
however,  that  it  was  very  likely  they  would  see  me  turning 
up  among  them,  like  a  bad  penny,  on  the  return  of  the 
schooner.  In  truth,  my  natural  buoyancy  had  so  far  died 
out,  that  but  faint  hopes  of  a  successful  termination  of  the 
voyage,  begun,  so  long  before,  under  auspices  apparently 
cheering,  now  encouraged  me.  We  hove  up  the  anchor, 
hoisted  sail,  and  steered  out  of  the  harbor  and  down  the 
coast,  running  off  and  standing  in  on  the  land,  in  hope  to 
fall  in  with  whales.  On  the  fourth  day  out,  we  discovered 
a  sail  coming  down  the  coast  towards  us.  It  proved  to  be 
an  outlandish-looking  craft,  from  her  rig  appearing  to  be  a 
Portuguese  schooner.  We  sailed  towards  her  with  a  light 
breeze,  lowered  our  boat,  and  went  alongside  the  foreigner. 
She  had  on  board  a  large  crew  of  cut-throat  looking  fellows, 
loitering  about.  We  were  not  asked  on  board,  but  re- 
mained in  the  boat  talking  with  them  through  one  of  our 
men,  a  Portuguese.  They  said  they  were  from  some  place, 
the  name  of  which  I  have  now  quite  forgotten,  up  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar,  and  were  bound  through  the  Straits 
of  Magellan  to  California.  I  suggested  to  Mr.  Clift  the 
propriety  of  getting  on  board,  and  going  to  Port  Famine  or 
to  California.  He  said  I  could  do  as  I  pleased;  but  that, 

16* 


192  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

for  his  own  part,  he  would  feel  hardly  willing  to  trust  him- 
self among  them,  in  which  opinion  I  concurred. 

Our  Portuguese  hand  went  on  board,  and  talked  with 
the  captain  of  my  adventures*  among  the  Indians,  and  of 
the  occupation,  &c.,  of  our  schooner.  He  was  directed  to 
inquire  for  whales,  and  brought  us  answer  that  several  had 
been  seen  along  the  coast,  some  distance  to  the  northward. 
While  this  conversation  was  going  on,  a  tall,  hairy  fellow 
came  up  from  the  cabin,  encased  in  a  dark-colored  cloak 
having  a  red  collar,  and  stripes  of  the  same  hue  running 
about  the  edge ;  a  hood,  or  cap,  of  divers  gaudy  colors, 
lay  back  on  his  shoulders,  and  another,  gayly  and  pro- 
fusely variegated  in  hue,  was  perched  upon  his  head. 
Altogether  he  was  a  comical-looking  piece  of  human  nature. 
He  took  a  look  at  our  vessel  through  the  glass.  In  answer 
to  an  inquiry  through  our  interpreter,  we  learned  that 
they  had  passed,  the  day  before,  an  American  schooner 
bound  that  way,  which  could  not  be  far  off.  One  of  the 
sailors  passed  some  liquor  to  us  over  the  side  of  the  vessel ; 
it  was  sad  stuff,  and  I  could  only  out  of  compliment  go 
through  with  the  form  of  drinking.  While  this  little 
courtesy  was  enacting,  our  Esau  over-head  was  scanning 
the  horizon  with  his  glass,  and  at  length  exclaimed  that 
he  saw  the  vessel;  we  turned,  and  distinctly  perceived  a 
sail  making  towards  us. 

We  soon  returned  to  the  tender,  and  stood  in  for  the 
shore,  in  order  to  cut  off  the  approaching  stranger  ;  anx- 
ious to  meet  her,  I  went  aloft  to  the  mast-head,  where  the 
view  was  better,  and  kept  the  mate  advised  of  her  course. 
When  near  enough  to  be  watched  from  the  deck,  I  came 
down,  as  it  was  impossible  she  could  escape  us.  Mr.  Clift 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  193 

offered  to  board  her,  and  I  accordingly  picked  up  my 
things,  ready  for  contingencies  ;  the  breeze  was  light,  and 
the  strange  schooner  approached  slowly.  We  stood  in  till 
it  was  judged  we  were  in  her  track,  and  then  hove  to,  with 
the  stars  and  stripes  flying  at  the  main  gaff,  as  a  signal 
that  we  wished  to  speak  her.  Presently  the  same  beau- 
tiful flag  was  run  up  her  main  peak;  on  she  came, — our 
boat  was  lowered,  Mr.  Clift  jumped  in  with  me,  and  we 
were  rowed  alongside,  the  schooner  rounding  to,  and  laying 
by  for  us  to  come  on  board.  Captain  Clift  announced 
himself  to  the  master  of  the  schooner,  who  came  to  the 
side  to  receive  us,  and  introduced  me.  He  courteously 
invited  us  on  board,  jocosely  remarking  that  we  had  a 
good  many  captains  for  one  vessel,  took  us  into  the  cabin, 
and  treated  us  with  the  greatest  civility. 

The  schooner  proved  to  be  the  Hopewell,  of  New  Or- 
gans, Captain  Morton,  from  Antigua,  and  bound  to  San 
Francisco,  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  There  were 
two  passengers  aboard,  an  American  gentleman,  and  a  Por- 
tuguese, taken  aboard  at  Bahia.  At  Captain,  Morton's 
request,  I  gave  a  sketch  of  my  expedition  and  sojourn 
among  the  cannibals.  "  You  were  bound  to  California 
when  you  embarked  ?  "  he  inquired,  when  I  had  concluded  ; 
"  I  am  bound  there,  and,  if  you  wish  to  finish  your  voyage, 
you  can  go  with  me."  My  mind  was  relieved ;  I  almost 
feared  to  ask  a  passage,  but  my  wish  had  been  antici- 
pated, —  my  request  generously  granted  before  it  was 
uttered.  I  gratefully  accepted  his  offer ;  remarking  that 
unless  my  vessel  had  arrived  in  safety,  of  which  I  had  no 
assurance,  I  should  find  myself  as  destitute  on  landing  as 
at  that  moment ;  but  that  he  could  leave  me  at  Port 


194  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

Famine,  if  I  became  troublesome.  The  "  John  Allyne  "  I 
supposed  to  have  been  lost  soon  after  my  capture ;  I  had 
heard  nothing  of  her  since.  He  desired  me  to  give  myself 
no  trouble  in  that  matter  on  his  accountf  and  exerted  him- 
self to  entertain  us.  As  we  were  opposite  the  river  Gal- 
legos,  and  could  easily  run  down  to  Cape  Virgin  during 
the  night,  Captain  Morton  felt  in  no  hurry;  and  the 
%  whaling  schooner  was  very  well  posted  for  observation  on 
the  coast,  so  that  our  men  were  well  contented,  and  we 
had  a  very  pleasant  social  interview  of^two  or  three  hours. 
Finally,  after  partaking  of  some  refreshments,  I  bade  adieu 
to  my  excellent  friend  Mr.  Clift,  and  the  two  vessels 
parted,  to  pursue  their  different  courses. 

During  the  night,  we  worked  our  way  down  to  the 
straits.  I  sat  up  quite  late  with  the  captain;  and,  when 
at  length  I  retired  to  my  statS-room,  fell  soundly  asleep. 
The  next  morning  we  were  nearly  opposite  Cape  Virgin, 
the  north  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  straits.  We  were 
rather  wide  off  the  cape ;  the  wind  was  ahead,  and  a  good 
strong  .  breeze ;  we  beat  in  at  last,  and  anchored  under 
Point  Dungeness.  The  Portuguese  schooner  was  in  the 
offing ;  she  worked  up  before  night,  and  anchored  a  little 
to  the  windward  of  us.  We  lay  at  anchor  through  the 
night ;  the  next  morning  we  both  got'  under  way,  with  a 
light  breeze,  which  lasted,  however,  but  a  little  while, 
when  the  wind  came  round  ahead.  As  we  were  passing 
Point  Dungeness,  —  it  was  not  fairly  daylight,  and  I  had 
not  yet  risen,  —  Mr.  F.,  one  of  the  passengers,  cried  out 
that  the  shove  opposite  was'  lined  with  Indians.  I  hurried 
on  deck  to  get  a  peep  at  them ;  upon  looking,  there  ap- 
peared a  great  schoo'  of  seals  on  the  beach ;  they  seemed 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  195 

to  be  standing  up,  and  walking  on  their  hind  feet,  so  as 
to  have,  in  the  dusk,  very  much  the  appearance  of  Indians. 
With  some  difficulty  we  worked  up  to  near  the  point 
where  the  John  Allyne  lay  when  I  made  my  unlucky  visit 
on  shore,  and  came  to  anchor ;  so  that  I  was  brought  back 
again  almost  to  the  starting-point  of  this  "  eventful  his- 
tory,"  —  a  revolution  suggestive  of  many  reflections. 

The  next  day  there  canie  a  heavy  gale ;  the  Portuguese 
schooner  had  anchored  on  the  preceding  night,  in  the  bight 
of  Possession  Bay,  further  down.  We  lay  heavily  pitch- 
ing at  our  anchors  till  afternoon,  w^en  Captain  Morton 
determined  to  get  his  anchors,  if  possible,  and  run  down  to 
where  the  foreign  schooner  lay,  thinking  it  might  prove  a 
safe  anchorage.  After  much  trouble  in  raising  the  anchors, 
we  ran  back,  keeping  the  lead  going/and  running  at«a 
furious  rate,  under  bare  poles,  excepting  the  head  of  the 
jib.  The  whole  bay  was  a  sheet  of  surf  and  foam.  I  began 
to  think  we  had  not  much  bettered  our  condition  by  re- 
moving. We  anchored  abreast  of  our  Portuguese  friend, 
but  still  dragged  the  anchors.  We  finally  brought  up  by 
securing  some  iron  castings  we  had  on  board  to  the  kedge ; 
the  chain-cable  was  reeved  through  them,  —  they  were  let 
down  ten  or  fifteen  feet  from  the  anchor.  The  small  kedge 
thus  fixed,  with  the  weight  attached  to  the  chain,  ploughed 
to  the  bottom,  instead  of  being  lifted  out  by  the  strain  on 
the  cable,  thereby  performing  the  service  of  one  many 
times  its  weight.  Our  little  vessel  rode  out  the  gale, 
which  was  of  short  duration  ;  as  the  sun  went  down  the 
wind  subsided.  We  had  hoisted  a  small  sail  to  the  main- 
mast, in  shape  ^esembling  a  leg  of  mutton,  to  make  the 
vessel  ride  hea-i  to  the  wind,  instead  of  lying  in  the  trough 


396  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

of  the  sea.  The  tide,  running  at  the  time  strongly  against 
the  wind,  caused  us  to  lie  nearly  broadside  to  the  force  of 
the  gale ;  but  this  temporary  sail,  supplying  the  place  of 
after-sail,  caused  the  craft  to  lie  more  steadily.  Just 
before  sunset  we  got  our  anchors  at  the  bow,  and  were 
under  close-reefed  sail,  beating  back  to  the  place  we  left 
in  the  forenoon,  near  the  first  narrows.  We  arrived  there 
in  the  evening,  and  again  anchored;  the  next  morning, 
with  a  light  breeze  from  the  eastward,  we  stood  into  the 
narrows,  in  company  with  the  Portuguese  schooner.  Soon 
after  we  had  passed  through  the  narrows,  the  wind  came 
ahead ;  we  beat  along,  and  anchored  under  Cape  Gregory, 
a  fine  anchorage. 

Towards  evening  we  discovered  something  sitting  upon 
a  high,  abrupt  sand-cliff,  on  the  bordering  shore ;  we  could 
perceive,  by  an  occasional  movement,  that  it  was  a  living 
creature.  The  object  was  of  considerable  interest,  and 
was  closely  inspected  with  the  glass ;  at  last  it  was  pro- 
nounced to  be  an  Indian.  The  shore  was  closely  scanned 
in  all  directions,  to  ascertain  whether  there  were  more  in 
the  vicinity  ;  none  were  in  sight,  and  we  concluded  to  pay 
the  solitary  a  visit ;  but,  as  hundreds  might  be  concealed 
in  the  neighborhood,  we  armed  to  the  teeth.  Old  flint-lock 
muskets,  rusty  with  long  idleness,  were  dragged  from  their 
hiding-places,  and  treated  to  a  dose  of  oil,  to  limber  their 
aged  joints ;  new  flints  were  fitted  to  the  locks,  and  every- 
thing put  in  good  order.  The  guns  were  heavily  charged 
with  powder  and  shot :  pistols  and  cutlasses,  dirks  and 
bowie-knives,  were  all  in  readiness,  and  the  boat  was  along- 
side, manned  by  the  sailors  ready  to  receive  us.  Mr.  F., 
the  first  and  second  mates,  and  myself,  pushed  off  for  the 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  197 

shore.  We  landed  at  some  distance  from  the  object  of 
our  visit,  that  we  might  have  a  better  opportunity  to 
survey  the  country  around.  Before  the  boat  fa.rly  felt 
the  bottom,  the  second  mate  jumped  into  the  water,  and 
ran  along  the  beach,  until  he  could  see  that  the  supposed 
Indian  was  a  large  bird.  He  raised  his  gun,  and  fired ; 
the  bird  came  tumbling  down  the  precipice,  and,  on  run- 
ning up,  we  found  it  to  be  a  large  condor.  The  Dutchman 
had  broken  his  wing.  We  caught  our  prize  and  took  it 
on  board  the  vessel,  and  were  heartily  laughed  at  for  our 
pains  by  the  captain,  who  had  been  viewing  the  onslaught 
through  the  glass.  Mr.  F.  was  teased  by  him  many  days 
for  the  intrepidity  of  his  charge  on  the  poor  bird,  rushing 
to  the  attack  with  a  drawn  sword  in  one  hand,  and  a  cocked 
pistol  in  the  other.  We  all  felt  a  little  crest-fallen,  I 
must  admit,  after  having  made  such  formidable  prepara- 
tions for  an  Indian  fight,  to  return  with  so  inglorious  a 
prize  ;  but,  as  none  of  my  former  tormentors  could  reason- 
ably be  supposed  to  have  strayed  to  this  part  of  the 
country,  and  I  had  no  animosities  towards  other  tribes  to 
be  gratified,  I  felt,  on  the  whole,  very  well  satisfied  with 
the  result.  We  measured  the  bird ;  but,  as  I  was  not 
"  takin'  notes  "  at  the  time,  it  is  now  impossible  to  give 
its  dimensions ;  it  was  very  large. 

The  next  day  we  commenced  beating  under  a  head-wind 
through  the  second  narrows ;  but,  when  partially  through, 
it  commenced  blowing  so  severely  that  we  were  compelled 
to  return  to  our  anchorage  at  Cape  Gregory.  The  follow- 
ing day  we  double-reefed  the  sails,  beat  through  the  nar- 
rows, 'and  anchored  in  Oazy  Harbor.  Here  we  went  on 
shore,  and  discovered  traces  of  Indians ;  the  smoke  of  their 


198  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

fires  was  seen  to  the  westward.  We  roamed  about  on 
shore  for  some  hours,  but  found  nothing  to  interest  us ;  it 
was  all  exceeding  bare  and  monotonous.  The  breeze  con- 
tinuing fresh  ahead,  we  remained  one  day  in  the  harbor, 
spending  our  leisure  in  shooting  sea-fowls,  which  were  very 
abundant.  Once  more  we  got  under  way,  and  anchored  off 
the  mouth  of  Pecket  Harbor  until  daylight,  then  stood  into 
Royal  Road,  and  passed  to  the  westward  of  Elizabeth  Island 
into  Catalina  Bay. 

Before  passing  Sandy  Point,  we  saw  several  horses,  and  a 
Chilian  flag  flying.  We  hauled  in  and  came  to  anchor,  as 
we  wished  to  procure  wood  and  water.*  A  large  gathering 
of  Spaniards  from  the  settlement  came  to  the  shore.  Among 
them  I  noticed  a  little  man,  handsomely  dressed,  with  a 
beautiful  cloak,  and  a  cap  having  a  wide  gilt  band ;  he  ap- 
peared to  be  about  fifty  years  old.  A  young  man,  of  per- 
haps thirty,  of  fine  appearance,  accompanied  him.  He  was 
dressed  in  military  costume,  blue  trousers  with  white  side- 
stripe,  blue  coat  with  standing  collar,  and  cloth  cap  with  a 
gilt  band.  These  important  personages  were  no  less  than 
the  governor  and  his  highest  officer.  They  were  walk- 
ing along  in  conversation,  and  came  down  to  meet  us  as  we 
landed,  shaking  hands,  and  asking  us  where  we  were  from, 
whither  bound,  and  if  we  stood  in  need  of  anything.  Capt. 
Morton  could  understand  the  Spanish,  when  spoken,  easier 
than  he  could  speak  it  himself.  I  therefore  acted  as  spokes- 
man, and  replied  that  we  wanted  wood  and  water.  After 
learning  the  quantity  needed,  his  excellency  gave  his  men 
orders  to  cut  and  split  the  wood,  and  draw  it  to  the  shore ;  and 
said  that  if  we  would  send  our  water-casks  ashore,  his  men 
should  fill  them.  In  due  time  both  orders  were  executed, 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  199 

and  we  received  a  good  supply  of  these  necessary  stores 
We  were  then  invited  to  the  governor's  house.  His  table 
was  sumptuously  spread,  and  we  were  entertained  in  the  most 
handsome  style.  He  was  a  kind,  gentlemanly  man,  and 
refused  to  receive  a  penny  for  the  supplies  he  furnished  us, 
but  accepted  some  presents  from  the  captain.  The  young 
officer  also  treated  us  very  politely,  and  hospitably  enter- 
tained us  in  his  house.  Our  vessel  remained  here  about  a 
week.  Every  day  the  governor  sent  us  a  large  bucket  of 
sweet  milk,  and  sometimes  fresh  beef.  The  place  was  a 
Chilian  penal  settlement.  He  was  about  removing  the  col- 
ony from  Port  Famine  here,  on  account  of  the  superiority 
of  the  soil.  The  young  soldier  and  the  Catholic  padre  were 
his  principal  officers.  A  part  of  the  colony  yet  remained 
at  Port  Famine. 

One  day,  while  walking  out  with  the  governor  to  look  at 
the  settlement,  he  asked  if  we  were  acquainted  with  coal.  I 
replied,  pointing  to  Mr.  F.,  that  he  had  been  an  engineer  on 
several  steamboats,  and  ought  to  be  able  to  judge  of  carbon, 
as  they  called  it.  He  sent  his  men  along  the  little  brook  to 
look  for  some.  They  soon  returned  with  several  small 
specimens,  which  Mr.  F.  pronounced  good  coal.  The  gov- 
ernor said  that  the  little  brook  led  up  to  a  large  coal-mine, 
six  or  seven  miles  back,  and  he  requested  us  to  go  and  look 
at  it.  The  next  day  he  renewed  the  proposal,  offered  us 
horses  and  a  man  to  clear  the  way,  and  said  the  padre  would 
accompany  us.  I  hesitated  a  little,  suggesting  that  we 
might  fall  in  with  Indians.  But  he  said,  and  the  priest  con-' 
curred,  that  there  was  no  danger  on  that  score,  and  we  con- 
sented to  go.  We  accordingly  went  on  shore  the  following 
morning,  and  found  horses  in  readiness  for  us.  Mr.  F.,  the 
17 


200  THE   CAPTITE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

padre  and  myself,  started  off,  accompanied  by  a  Spaniard  on 
foot,  armed  with  an  axe,  to  clear  away  the  obstructions  in 
our  path.  After  leaving  the  settlement,  we  plunged  into  a 
thick  wood,  on  low,  marshy  ground,  and  followed  a  blind 
trail,  leading  now  over  the  trunk  of  a  large  tree,  which  our 
horses  leaped  with  difficulty,  now  across  a  quagmire,  which 
had  to  be  filled  with  bushes  to  furnish  a  focthold,  and  again 
was  obstructed  by  an  overhanging  tree,  or  pendent  branch, 
which  arrested  our  progress  till  it  could  be  cut  away.  In 
this  manner  we  worked  a  passage  for  about  a  mile,  when  we 
emerged  into  an  upland  region  free  from  underbrush.  By 
this  time,  the  thought  recurred  that  it  was  rather  impru- 
dent travelling  unarmed  in  that  miserable  country,  infested 
by  savage  men  and  wild  beasts ;  but  I  was  in  for  it,  and 
jogged  along  with  dogged  resolution.  The  face  of  the  coun* 
try  became  more  uneven  as  we  proceeded,  tall  trees  were 
numerous,  and  we  caught  an  occasional  glimpse  of  snow  on 
the  hills.  We  soon  reached  a  height  at  which  there  was 
abundance  of  snow.  Our  guide  strode  in  advance,  his  Span-: 
ish  axe  swung  upon  his  shoulder,  calmly  whistling  a  tune 
to  himself.  As  we  were  descending  a  steep  place,  my  horse 
suddenly  stopped,  and  bent  his  head  and  legs  to  the  ground, 
—  the  saddle  slipped  over  his  head,  and  his  rider  instantly 
found  himself  about  thirty  feet  below,  his  head  and  hands 
stuck  fast  in  the  snow,  and  his  heels  elevated  high  in  air. 
A  little  smart  exertion  extricated  me  from  my  uncomfort- 
able position.  Our  guide  came  to  me,  uttering  maledictions 
on  the  stumbling  beast.  Clambering  with  mo  back  t?  where 
the  horse  stood,  he  beat  him  soundly,  and  again  girt  the 
saddle  so  tightly  that  I  almost  feared  it  wo-ild  sovar  his 
body.  I  remonstrated,  but  he  replied  tha*  it  was  a  bad 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  201 

horse,  and  was  playing  old  tricks.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
declivity  I  remounted ;  we  travelled  through  the  snow  as 
far  as  we  could  ride,  the  *  left  our  horses  and  continued  our 
way  on  foot.  The  snow  was  very  deep,  in  places  frozen 
hard  enough  to  bear  our  weight.  A  walk  of  a  mile  or  more 
brought  us,  with  some  fatigue,  to  the  coal-mine.  But 
there  was  such  a  depth  of  snow  that  we  could  see  only  here 
and  there  a  projection  of  coal  in  the  banks  of  the  brook 
which  runs  down  from  the  mountains  to  the  settlement. 

The  coal  was  pronounced  by  Mr.  F.  to  be  of  good  quality 
for  steamboat  use.  Some  pieces  which  we  brought  down 
with  us  burned  very  freely,  and  emitted  great  heat.  Mr.  F. 
thought  it  a  great  discovery,  and  had  an  inclination  to 
apply  to  the  Chilian  government  for  permission  to  work  the 
mine.  The  Buenos  Ayrean  government,  also,  I  was  in- 
formed, laid  claim  to  this  desolate  country.  Forest  trees, 
of  great  size,  both  of  hard  and  soft  wood,  appeared  to  be 
abundant ;  and  numerous  streams  of  water  are  convenient, 
which  could  readily  supply  water-power  sufficient  to  man- 
ufacture almost  any  quantity  of  lumber.  A  canal  might 
very  easily  be  dug  to  the  straits,  or  a  railroad  might  be 
constructed,  so  as  to  take  the  coal,  with  little  trouble,  from 
the  mine  to  the  colony.  The  padre  said  that  an  English 
company,  some  time  ago,  started  to  explore  this  mine,  but, 
on  account  of  the  great  depth  of  snow,  gave  up  the  enter- 
prise without  inspection. 

We  returned  to  the  settlement  before  night,  and  went  to 
the  young  officer's  house,  where  we  were  bountifully  sup 
plied  with  refreshments,  and  had  a  very  pleasant,  sociable 
interview,  into  which  the  priest  entered  with  due  spirit,  in 
respect  both  to  the  physical  and  mental  refreshments.  Eo 


202  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

turned  to  the  vessel  at  dusk.  The  next  morn;  ^  we  landed 
some  goods,  and  traded  with  the  people.  I1he  principal 
articles  purchased  were  cougar-skins,  guanaco-skins,  and  a 
few  ostrich-skins,  sewed  together  in  the  form  of  a  cape,  the 
long  feathers  being  extracted,  leaving  a  soft,  downy  sur- 
face. The  governor  asked  permission,  which  the  captain 
readily  granted,  for  some  of  the  women  to  visit  the  vessel 
and  trade  on  board ;  and  in  the  afternoon  half  a  dozen  or 
more  of  them  visited  us,  viewed  the  vessel,  purchased  such 
articles  as  they  wanted,  and  were  then  set  on  shore.  We 
spent  here  a  day  or  two  more  very  agreeably,  trading  with 
the  convicts  and  gunning  in  the  vicinity  of  the  settlement. 
We  had  a  little  sport  in  trying  to  capture  some  sea-lions 
that  were  gambolling  around  the  vessel,  but  were  unsuc- 
cessful. We  saw  the  skin  of  one  that  had  been  captured  by 
one  of  the  convicts  ;  it  was  black,  covered  with  a  thick  coat 
of  course  hair,  or  rather  bristles.  In  size  they  were  about 
equal  to  the  common  bull-dog.  They  rise  every  now  and 
then  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  to  blow,  like  a  porpoise. 
We  bade  the  governor,  the  young  officer  and  the  padre,  an 
affectionate  farewell.  Their  kindness  and  courtesy  had 
made  our  visit  so  agreeable  that  we  were  almost  sorry  to 
leave  them.  Not  long  after  our  departure,  we  were  shocked 
to  learn  that  they  had  met  with  a  sudden  and  cruel  fate. 
The  convicts  mutinied,  and  rose  upon  the  officers.  The  gov- 
ernor and  ttfe  priest  succeeded  in  reaching  the  opposite 
shore,  where  they  remained  three  days  without  food.  They 
decided  to  return  to  the  settlement,  and  abide  the  conse- 
quences, whatever  they  might  be.  The  convicts  bound  them 
hand  and  foot,  roasted  them  alive,  burned  their  bones,  and 
danced  over  their  ashes !  We  had  parted  from  them  ex- 


TUK    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  #03 

pecting  never  again  to  see  their  faces,  but  had  loved  to 
think  of  them  as  still  inhabiting  that  bleak  shore,  turning 
it,  by  the  magic  of  their  cheerful  temper,  into  a  pleasant 
garden,  and  warming  it  in  the  glow  of  their  kindly  hearts. 
Their  end  was  in  such  fearful  contrast  to  their  lives,  and 
did  such  violence  to  our  remembrance  of  their  virtues,  that 
the  tidings  affected  us  with  a  sense  of  personal  loss,  and 
made  that  lonely  spot  at  once  among  the  happiest  and  the 
saddest  of  iny  experience. 
17* 


iS04  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Port  Famine  —  St.  Nicholas'  Bay,  and  its  inscriptions  —  Politeness  of  the 
Indians  declined  —  Difficulty  of  navigating  the  straits  —  A  post-bag  in 
a  bottle  —  An  English  steamer,  and  its  humane  errand  —  Exertions  of 
the  British  government  to  rescue  prisoners  in  Patagonia  —  American 
schooner  —  Celebration  of  our  safe  passage  through  the  straits  —  Juan 
Fernandez  —  News  from  home  —  A  chapter  of  accidents  —  A  trip  to 
Lima  —  Almost  an  adventure  —  Arrival  at  San  Francisco- — Journey  to 
the  mines  —  A  happy  meeting. 

OUR  next  stopping-place  was  Port  Famine.  We  were 
visited,  the  first  evening  after  we  anchored,  by  the  acting 
governor  of  the  colony  and  their  Irish  doctor.  The  captain 
and  myself  went  on  shore  the  next  day,  and  made  a  very 
agreeable  visit  to  the  officers,  who  treated  us  with  much 
politeness.  We  spent  two  or  three  days  here.  We  next 
cast  anchor  in  Saint  Nicholas'  Bay,  a  beautiful  harbor. 
Going  on  shore,  we  observed  the  names  of  a  number  of 
vessels  that  had  preceded  us  through  the  straits  carved 
upon  trees,  with  the  dates  of  the  several  inscriptions ;  we 
added  our  own  to  the  catalogue.  There  were  some  de- 
serted bush-huts,  probably  of  Terra-del-Fuegans,  who  fre- 
quently cross  over  the  straits  in  their  canoes,  when  fishing. 
A  small,  shallow  stream,  of  much  beauty,  flows  into  the 
harbor ;  we  rowed  up  it  for  some  distance,  gunning  on  the 


CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  205 


banks.  From  this  point,  several  ineffectual  attempts  were 
made  to  advance ;  but  we  were  driven  back  as  soon  as  we 
cleared  Cape  Frowaid,  and  obliged  to  retreat  to  our  an- 
chorage. Our  vessel  was  flat,  and  could  not  hold  on  before 
a  stiff  breeze,  but  was  inclined,  like  a  crab,  to  move  side- 
ways The  wind  having  subsided,  we  made  sail  late  in 
the  afternoon,  succeeded  in  doubling  Cape  Froward,  and 
dropped  anchor  in  Snug  Bay  ;  but,  not  being  pleased  with 
our  position,  weighed  anchor,  and  continued  our  course  to 
Fortescue  Bay.  In  passing  Cape  Holland  we  saw  a  large 
company  of  Indians.  They  paraded  on  the  shore  with 
dingy  flags  flying,  and  waved  skins  in  the  air  to  invite  our 
approach ;  but  we  kept  on  our  way  without  noticing  them ; 
anchored,  the  next  afternoon,  in  Port  Gallant,  —  a  fine 
harbor,  sheltered  from  all  winds.  We  observed  the  wreck 
of  some  large  vessel,  and  conjectured  that  it  might  be  that 
of  a  French  bark  of  which  we  were  told  at  Port  Famine, 
which  was  run  ashore  and  plundered  by  the  Indians,  who 
murdered  the  crew.  We  were  advised  to  keep  a  sharp 
look-out  for  Indians  here,  which  we  failed  not  to  do ;  but 
none  made  their  appearance.  As  we  beat  up  Crooked 
Reach,  and  passed  the  end  of  Carlos  III.  Islands,  we  dis- 
covered a  white  flag  flying  on  the  Terra-del-Fuegan  shore. 
Thinking  it  might  be  the  signal  of  some  white  people  who 
had  been  shipwrecked,  we  stood  over  into  the  opposite 
channel,  near  enough  to  see  Indians  and  their  canoes  on 
the  beach,  ready  to  pay  us  a  visit.  We  hove  about,  hav- 
ing no  desire  to  make  their  acquaintance,  and  anchored, 
towards  night,  in  the  beautiful  Borga  Bay,  opposite. 

The  most  difficult  and  dangerous  feature  of  navigation 
in  the  straits   is  the  encountering  of  sudden  and  violent 


206  THE    CA7.»TIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

squalls,  which  strike  the  vessel  without  the  least  warning, 
and  are  frequently  enough  to  wreck  her  in  a  few  minutes 
even  in  the  hands  of  the  most  experienced  seamen.  We 
found  on  shore  inscriptions  of  California-bound  vessels,  as 
before.  On  a  branch  of  a  tree  overhanging  a  little  stream, 
we  found  a  bottle  suspended,  containing  papers.  This  was 
taken  on  board,  and  its  contents  examined.  Three  or  four 
vessels,  passing  through  the  straits,  had  left  memoranda  of 
their  experience,  —  such  as  snow-storms,  loss  of  spars, 
anchors,  chains,  &c.  Captain  Morton  wrote  a  humorous 
account  of  our  voyage,  to  deposit  in  this  repository  of  curi- 
osities ;  and  I  added  a  contribution,  narrating  my  capture 
by  the  Indians  and  escape,  with  a  request  that,  if  it  should 
fall  into  hands  bound  for  the  United  States  or  England,  it 
might  be  published.  I  little  thought  that  it  would  bear  to 
my  anxious  friends  the  first  intelligence  of  my  safety.  I 
left  letters  at  Sea-Lion  Island,  to  be  forwarded  by  the  first 
opportunity,  which  failed  to  reach  their  destination ;  but 
this,  bottled  and  suspended  from  a  tree  in  the  wilderness, 
first  fell  into  the  hands  of  an  Indian,  who  sold  it  to  some 
passing  trader,  by  whom  the  soiled  writing  was  deciphered, 
and  kindly  forwarded  to  Smith's  News-room,  in  Boston, 
and  was  published  in  the  "  Boston  Atlas." 

Our  progress  was  slow,  both  wind  and  tide  being  against 
us ;  a  strong  current  set  constantly  to  the  eastward.  At 
Swallow  Harbor,  where  we  next  anchored,  we  were  com- 
pletely sheltered  from  the  winds,  except  that  which  came 
down  from  the  lofty  mountains,  called  by  the  sailors  "  wil- 
lewaws."  The  scenery  around  is  exceedingly  wild.  There 
was  a  beautiful  waterfall  on  the  mountain  side,  the  stream 
probably  fed  by  melting  snow.  We  stopped  at  many 


THE    CAPT  VE    IN    PATAGOJSLA.  207 

harbors  as  we  passed  alcng,  most  of  them  quite  secure  when 
entered,  but  difficult  of  access.  Half-port  Bay,  at  which 
we  touched,  is  very  properly  named.  It  is  but  a  slight  in- 
dentation in  the  land,  and  has  a  bottom  affording  very 
poor  holding-ground,  covered  with  kelp ;  besides,  it  is  very 
imperfectly  sheltered  from  the  wind.  While  lying  here  we 
had  a  severe  gale  from  the  westward,  which  produced  con- 
siderable "  chop."  Our  vessel  dragged  her  anchors,  in  con- 
sequence of  their  becoming  foul  with  kelp.  However,  by 
dropping  our  kedge-anchor,  and  loading  the  chains,  we 
succeeded  in  arresting  our  motion  before  striking  the  rocks. 
We  had  a  narrow  escape. 

At  Cape  Monday,  having  cast  anchor,  we  discovered,  tow- 
ards night,  a  steamer  on  the  Patagonian  side,  bound  west- 
ward. Our  colors  were  set,  as  there  were  indications  of  a 
dark  and  stormy  night,  and  the  steamer  turned  about  and 
steered  for  our  harbor.  This  was  a  pleasant  circumstance, 
as  the  captain  meant,  if  possible,  to  get  towed  through  the 
straits.  The  vessel  anchored  near  us,  and  proved  to  be  the 
Fire  Fly,  Captain  Smith  master,  built  for  an  English 
gentleman  residing  in  Talchuana,  and  now  bound  to  Val- 
paraiso. Captain  Smith  had  his  daughter  with  him,  and 
half  a  dozen  passengers.  We  visited  them,  and  were  very 
civilly  received,  invited  into  the  cabin,  and  introduced  to 
the  young  lady.  On  hearing  my  name,  she  observed  that 
they  found  at  Borga  Bay  a  paper  in  a  bottle,  describing 
the  captivity  of  a  person  bearing  the  same  name  in  Pata- 
gonia, with  an  account  of  his  escape.  Captain  Morton 
informed  her  that  I  was  the  writer  of  that  document.  "  Is 
it  possible  ? "  she  exclaimed  ;  "  then  you  are  the  hero  of 
those  adventures ! "  'I  certainly  am  the  unfortunate 


208  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

person  tXere  described,"  I  replied,  "though  wholly  un- 
deserving the  name  of  hero."  She  expressed,  as  did  all  the 
passengers,  much  sympathy,  and  asked  many  questions  in 
regard  to  the  treatment  received  and  the  life  led  during 
my  captivity. 

Captain  Smith  suggested  that  I  might  be  able  to  give 
hinc  some  information  in  regard  to  two  Englishmen  who 
had  been  captured  by  the  savages.  He  had  orders  from 
the  Board  of  Admiralty  to  make  search  at  any  places  at 
which  he  might  touch  on  the  Patagonian  coast,  and  en- 
deavor to  learn  something  of  their  fate.  I  told  him  that  I 
knew  something  of  certain  English  prisoners  in  that  country, 
and  proceeded  to  relate  what  I  had  learned  from  the  In- 
dians of  the  murder  of  Captain  Eaton,  and  the  capture  and 
subsequent  murder  of  Messrs.  Sims  and  Douglass ;  giving 
the  names  of  the  vessel  and  the  prisoners  from  information 
communicated  by  Mr.  Hall.  Captain  Smith  produced  his 
letter  of  instructions,  and  the  names  and  circumstances 
perfectly  coincided,  except  that  the  instructions  described 
the  Avon  as  a  ship,  while  she  was  styled  by  Mr.  Hall  as  a 
brig ;  an  immaterial  variation,  as  all  classes  cf  vessels 
often  pass  under  the  general  designation  of  "  ships."  My 
deposition  of  the  facts  was  written  out  by  two  of  the  pas- 
sengers, and,  having  been  read  to  me,  I  signed  it,  for  trans- 
mission to  England.  The  English  government,  Captain 
Smith  said,  had  been  at  great  pains  and  expense  to  obtain 
information  of  those  unfortunate  young  men,  who  belonged 
to  highly  respectable  families  in  England,  and  to  facilitate 
their  escape.  Boats  1  ad  been  sent  out  and  buried  in  the 
sand,  and  a  great  number  of  handkerchiefs  had  been 
printed,  containing  particular  statements  of  the  situation  of 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  209 

the  buried  boats ;  these  had  been  distributed  to  vessels 
bound  near  the  Patagonian  coast,  to  be  thrown  ashore,  in 
the  hope  that  they  might  be  picked  up  by  Indians,  and 
thus  convey  the  desired  information  to  the  prisoner^,  if 
they  were  living.  In  hearing  what  the  British  government 
had  done  for  its  unfortunate  subjects,  I  indulged  in  some 
bitter  remarks  on  the  supposed  neglect  of  our  government 
in  respect  to  my  fate,  in  leaving  me  (as  I  presumed  to 
think)  to  perish  aiming  cannibals,  without  making  any 
effort  to  learn  my  fate,  or  to  rescue  me  from  destruction ; 
remarks  of  which  I  had  abundant  cause  to  be  ashamed, 
when  I  learned  what  had  been  actually  attempted  in  my 
behalf. 

We  could  effect  no  arrangement  to  be  towed  by  the 
steamer,  as  the  captain  said  his  stock  of  fuel  was  too  small 
to  warrant  running  the  risk  of  being  retarded;  besides,  in 
case  of  accident,  it  would  affect  his  insurance.  We  spent 
part  of  the  evening  on  board  the  steamer ;  very  soon  after 
returning  to  our  ship,  a  boat,  containing  two  or  three  of 
the  passengers,  drew  up  alongside,  and  a  package  was  put 
into  my  hands  containing  ten  dollars,  and  a  letter,  signed 
by  the  captain  and  passengers,  requesting  my  acceptance 
of  the  gift,  as  a  slight  token  of  their  regard  and  sympathy. 
While  returning  my  hearty  thanks  for  such  a  demonstra- 
tion of  kindness  to  a  stranger,  I  begged  to  decline  the 
money;  but  they  urged  its  acceptance,  and  I  reluctantly 
gratified  their  wishes. 

All  the  next  day  we  beat  along,  till  we  found  anchorage 
at  Round  Island  for  the  night.  On  nearing  the  harbor,  a 
mast  was  observed  on  the  rocks,  lying  partly  out  of  the 
wat  jr.  I  took  the  boat,  early  the  next  morning,  to  ascer- 


210  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

tain  if  it  was  attached  to  a  wreck;  but  found  that  it  wa,«s 
loose,  and  mudt  have  drifted  there.  I  knocked  off  the  iron 
band  and  cross-trees  from  the  mast-head,  and  brought  them 
on  board  our  vessel.  At  Tamer  Harbor,  our  next  port, 
we  noticed  the  wreck  of  a  new  vessel,  lying  well  up  on 
the  shore,  her  bottom  badly  shattered  by  the  rocks  on 
which  she  had  been  driven,  and  both  masts  gone ;  it  proved 
to  be  the  "John  A.  Slitter,"  of  Rhode  Island.  On  the 
opposite  shore  were  parts  of  iron-mills,  and  other  machin- 
ery, probably  designed  for  use  in  California.  The  shore 
was  strewed  with  trunks  and  chests,  from  the  wreck ;  she 
had  been  stripped  of  everything  valuable.  The  cabin  on 
deck  had  been  cut,  and  partially  burned,  by  those  touching 
at  the  harbor.  We  fished  up  a  bundle  of  steel  rods  from 
the  hold,  which  was  partly  filled  with  sand  and  water. 
The  vessel  had  been  wrecked,  as  we  afterwards  ascertained, 
in  a  thick  fog,  on  one  of  the  little  islands  off  the  western 
mouth  of  the  straits,  and  drifted  back  to  the  harbor,  where 
we  found  her.  While  we  were  here,  the  schooner  Julius 
Pringle,  of  New  London,  bound  to  California,  came  in  and 
anchored.  The  next  day  a  fine  wind  bore  us  to  Mercy 
Harbor,  the  last  anchorage  in  the  Straits  of  Magellan. 
The  harbor  is  a  good  one ;  and  we  determined  not  to  leave 
it  till  we  had  a  good  wind,  that  would  take  us  well  out, 
far  enough  to  clear  the  islands  lying  off  the  north  side. 
We  remained  several  days  waiting  for  a  south-westerly 
wind,  during  which  delay  a  pilot-boat,  bound  for  the 
golden  country,  came  up  with  us.  Our  time  here  was 
spent  very  agreeably  ;  our  passage  through  the  straits  had 
consumed  fifty-one  days,  and  had  been  effected  without 
accident,  though  we  had  witnessed  repeated  tokens  of  dis- 


THE    CAPTIYE   IN   PATAGONIA.  211 

aster  to  some  of  our  predecessors.  By  way  of  celebrating 
our  success,  we  got  up  a  "  clam-bake,"  minus  the  clams,  in 
lieu  of  which  we  collected  and  roasted  a  quantity  of  mus- 
cles, by  burying  them  in  the  earth,  and  applying  hot 
stones  ;  they  proved  excellent  eating,  and  we  had  "  a  good 
time." 

Our  mate,  who  was  a  sensible  young  man,  of  good  educa- 
tion, had  two  foibles ;  he  was  a  decided  grumbler,  and,  in 
his  conviviality,  he  was  a  little  too  far  from  total  absti- 
nence. He  had  a  particular  dislike  of  a  dog  on  board, 
purchased  at  Sandy  Point,  —  a  thievish  rascal,  that  always 
had  his  nose  in  anything  that  was  dirty ;  even  the  tar  and 
slush-buckets  did  not  escape  his  attentions.  On  the  even- 
ing of  the  clam-bake,  the  mate  was  a  little  exhilarated ; 
and,  having  pulled  off  his  pea-jacket  preparatory  to  "  turn 
ing  in  "  for  the  night,  he  seized  Bose,  mistaking  him  for 
the  jacket  he  had  just  dropped,  and  threw  him  into  his 
berth.  The  dog  was  not  at  all  displeased  with  such  com- 
fortable quarters,  and  lay  down  very  nicely  with  his 
unexpected  bed-fellow.  I  observed  the  mate,  the  next 
morning,  sitting  near  his  berth,  yawning;  his  eyes  pres- 
ently rested  on  the  detested  Bose ;  his  feet  were  in  quick 
motion,  and  an  unceremonious  kick  turned  the  dog  out  as 
suddenly  as  he  had  been  turned  in.  The  incident  afforded 
us  a  hearty  laugh  at  the  mate's  expense,  who  became,  for 
the  rest  of  the  voyage,  a  decided  temperance  man. 

Tired  of  our  detention,  we  put  off  in  unfavorable  weath- 
er ;  the  Pringle  and  the  pilot-boat  (whose  name  I  have 
forgotten)  getting  out  with  us,  but  we  found  it  expedient 
to  retreat  to  our  anchorage.  A  gale  soon  followed,  which 
prolonged  our  stay  ;  when  its  fury  was  past,  we  got  out 
18 


212  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

and  proceeded  northward,  for  Callao.  In  passing  the  port 
of  Juan  Fernandez,  we  saw  a  whaling-ship  just  putting 
out  to  sea ;  we  had  designed  to  stop  here  for  some  supplies, 
but  concluded  that  we  could  better  obtain  them  at  Callao 
and  held  on  our  course.  In  our  way  to  Callao  we  spoke 
the  bark  Sarah,  Captain  Morse,  from  New  Bedford, 
bound  to  California  with  a  company  of  sixty  members, 
of  which  Captain  Morse  was  president.  Our  captain  told 
them  that  he  had  on  board  a  man  from  New  Bedford,  — 
Captain  Bourne,  —  escaped  from  captivity  among  the 
Indians.  Captain  Morse  replied  that  he  recollected  the 
sloop  of  war  Vandalia  was  sent  down  to  the  straits  in 
search  of  him.  Presently  a  crowd  of  persons  surrounded 
the  captain  of  the  Sarah,  who  appeared  to  be  talking  ear- 
nestly ;  the  bark  was  soon  hove  to,  and  several  gentlemen 
from  New  Bedford  came  to  us  in  a  boat.  They  seemed 
overjoyed  to  find  me  alive  and  well,  and  made  numerous 
inquiries  about  my  captivity-  and  rescue.  They  informed 
me  that  the  Vandalia  was  despatched  by  our  government 
to  my  relief,  with  orders  to  punish  my  captors,  if  expedient 
and  practicable.  From  them,  also,  I  gained  the  first  in- 
formation concerning  my  ship  and  shipmates;  it  seemed 
that  the  vessel,  with  the  Hebe  and  the  J.  B.  Gager,  lost 
their  chains  and  anchors  in  the  straits,  and  dragged  out  to 
sea.  The  John  Allyne,  after  steering  two  or  three  days 
for  Montevideo,  to  repair  and  obtain  supplies,  ascertained 
that  they  had  water  enough  aboard  to  carry  them  around 
Cape  Horn,  the  only  practicable  course,  as,  without  chains 
and  anchors,  it  was  impossible  to  enter  the  straits.  With 
the  concurrence  of  all  on  board,  it  was  decided  to  attempt 
the  passage  round  the  cape  as  they  were.  They  encoun 


THE    CAPTIYE    IN    PATAGONIA.  213 

jerci  a  gale  off  the  Horn  ;  and,  while  lying  to,  the  vessd 
was  knocked  on  her  beam  ends.  The  second  mate,  Mr.  F. 
Drapo,  of  New  Bedford,  was  washed  overboard,  and  lost ; 
sthers  were  badly  bruised,  some  narrowly  escaping  the 
doom  of  the  mate.  The  cabin  partly  filled  with  water ; 
but  the  schooner  righted,  with  the  loss  of  spars,  sails,  bul- 
warks, caboose,  and  stanchions.  She  finally  weathered  the 
gale,  and  arrived  at  Valparaiso,  forty-one  days  after  I  was 
left  in  Patagonia.  Here  the  vessel  was  repaired,  at  great 
cost,  and  proceeded  safely  to  California.  After  the  rela- 
tion of  this  chapter  of  accidents,  I  gave  them  a  brief  nar- 
rative of  my  adventures  among  the  Patagonians ;  they 
returned  towards  night  to  their  ship.  The  wind  was  light, 
and  in  the  morning  we  were  still  near  each  other ;  several 
of  the  passengers  came  to  us  in  a  boat,  bringing  with  them 
a  quantity  of  American  newspapers.  I  found  in  them 
notices  of  the  disasters  that  befell  my  vessel,  and  the  par- 
ticulars of  my  capture.  The  papers  were  lent  to  me  until 
we  should  meet  at  Callao,  —  a  great  favor  ;  their  contents 
were  ^devoured  with  a  high  relish,  as  they  were  the  first 
American  papers  I  had  seen  since  my  capture.  Both 
vessels  arrived  safely,  on  the  third  day  afterwards,  at 
Callao. 

In  the  evening  after  our  arrival,  I  went  with  the  cap- 
tain and  Mr.  F.  on  board  the  Sarah,  and  spent  an  hour 
very  agreeably.  The  passengers  had  agreed  to  take  the 
diligence  next  morning,  and  visit  the  city  of  Lima,  six 
miles  distant,  and  they  invited  us  to  join  them.  Mr.  F. 
assented,  but  I  declined,  preferring,  on  the  whole,  to 
remain  on  shipboard.  The  party  were  on  shore  botimes 
the  next  morning,  except  Mr.  F.,  who  consumed  so  much 


214  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

time  in  urging  me  to  go  with  them,  in  which  Ccaptain 
Morton  joined,  that  he  said  the  company  must  have  got 
off;  and,  unless  I  would  accompany  him  on  horseback,  he 
would  have  to  bear  me  company  in  the  ship;  so,  rather 
than  disappoint  him,  though  caring  but  little  personally 
for  the  jaunt,  I  yielded.  We  went  ashore  immediately, 
procured  horses,  and,  having  found  our  friends,  rambled 
over  the  city,  viewing  the  numerous  public  buildings  by 
which  it  is  adorned.  We  were  continually  beset  by  shriv- 
elled, cadaverous  beggars ;  they  posted  themselves  at 
every  corner,  and  besought  us,  by  the  Blessed  Virgin,  to 
give  them  alms.  The  day  passed,  on  the  whole,  so  pleas- 
antly, and  there  remained  so  many  objects  of  interest 
unvisited,  we  rather  regretted  that  it  was  not  longer.  The 
diligence  drove  up  to  the  hotel  towards  evening,  to  take 
our  friends  to  the  port;  we  started  for  our  horses,  intend- 
ing to  overtake  and  accompany  them  in  their  drive,  but 
missed  our  way.  Some  time  elapsed  before  we  found  our- 
selves at  the  gate  of  the  city,  opening  on  the  beautiful 
public  road  to  Callao.  As  we  passed  out,  we  drew  up  at 
a  respectable-looking  ranche ;  two  young  Spaniards  ap- 
peared to  be  the  only  occupants.  With  some  little  delay, 
during  which  one  of  the  two  stepped  out  at  a  back  door, 
we  procured  cigars,  lighted  them,  and  were  moving  towards 
the  entrance.  Whilst  I  was  paying  for  them,  my  com- 
panion got  the  start  of  me.  As  I  was  placing  my  foot  in 
the  stirrup,  twenty  or  thirty  mounted  horsemen  dashed 
through  the  gateway,  up  to  the  house.  They  were  armed 
to  the  teeth;  their  holsters  stuck  full  of  pistols,  and  I 
could  free  shining  blades  protruding  through  their  gar- 
ments. They  had  a  despera'e,  lawless  look,  unlike  that 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  215 

of  sol  liers  or  civil  officers,  and  it  seemed  to  me  they  were  no 
bettei  than  they  should  be.  I  thought  of  tiie  delay  in  giving 
us  our  cigars,  and  it  struck  me  that  one  of  the  troop  strongly 
resembled  the  fellow  who  stepped  out  so  quietly  on  our  en- 
trance. I  sprang  into  the  saddle  and  gave  my  horse  two  or 
three  smart  raps,  under  the  stimulus  of  which  he  cleared  the 
causeway  between  the  sidewalk  and  the  road  at  a  single  bound, 
and  speedily  overtook  my  companion.  He  had  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  armed  cavalcade,  and  we  urged  our  horses  at 
full  speed  for  about  a  mile,  without  looking  back.  On  turn- 
ing, nothing  was  seen  but  a  long  streak  of  dust.  We  then 
compared  notes  touching  the  armed  men,  and  agreed  that 
we  were  best  off  at  a  distance  from  them.  We  made  the 
best  of  our  way  to  Callao,  which  we  reached  a  little  after 
dark,  and  found  the  captain  delighted  at  our  safe  return,  as 
he  had  feared  some  accident,  having  heard  since  morning  of 
several  robberies  lately  committed  on  that  road.  He  had 
been  told  that  a  perfect  understanding  existed  between  the 
robbers  and  the  people  of  Callao,  who  gave  daily  intelli- 
gence of  persons  leaving  the  port  for  the  city ;  and  that 
even  officers  of  the  government  were  suspected  of  conniving 
at  these  outrages,  if  not  actually  in  league  with  the  banditti. 
As  yet,  all  attempts  to  ferret  them  out  and  break  up  their 
combination  had  failed.  Our  description  of  the  party  we  en- 
countered so  far  agreed  with  the  statements  of  American 
residents  at  Callao,  that  we  were  congratulated,  and  felt 
disposed  to  congratulate  ourselves,  on  our  safe  journey. 
Neither  of  us  was  burdened  vriihplata,  and  we  had  no  more 
effective  weapons  than  our  jack-knives. 

As  a  national  vessel  had  been  ordered  to  the  coast  of 
Patagonia  for  my   relief,  I  thought   it   my  duty  to   report 
18* 


216  THE   CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

myself  the  aext;  day  to  the  American  consul,  who  was  much 
interested  by  the  recital  of  my  experience.  The  brig  Ann 
and  Julia,  Captain  McAlister,  of  New  Orleans,  came  into 
port  a  day  or  two  after.  Captain  McAlister  said  that  the 
Vandalia  came  into  Rio  Janeiro  while  he  was  there,  shipped 
more  men,  and  sailed  southward  in  great  haste. 

Having  obtained  wood  and  water  and  other  necessary 
supplies,  we  put  out  to  sea  once  more.  I  must  not  omit  to 
record  the  kindness  shown,  and  the  still  greater  kindness 
tendered  me,  by  the  captain  of  the  Sarah,  and  all  the 
members  of  the  company.  They  offered  me  a  free  passage 
and  any  assistance  I  might  need  on  arrival  in  California ; 
but  the  generosity  of  Captain  Morton  had  supplied  all  pres- 
ent needs,  and,  with  all  gratitude  for  their  proffered  aid,  I 
was  not  willing  to  tax  their  bounty  in  advance.  We  stood 
well  to  the  westward  before  crossing  the  line,  as  only  light 
winds  can  be  expected  before  reaching  from  five  to  seven 
degrees  of  north  or  south  latitude,  when  the  trade-winds  set 
in.  We  had  a  passage  of  thirty -seven  days  from  Callao  to 
San  Francisco,  which  was  in  very  good  time,  considering  the 
sailing  qualities  of  our  vessel.  We  anchored  in  the  beauti- 
ful harbor,  February  19,  1850,  one  year  and  seven  days 
from  the  date  of  my  leaving  New  Bedford. 

Any  description  of  San  Francisco  would  be  altogether 
superfluous,  as  her  streets,  even,  are  familiar  in  the  states 
as  household  words.  I  found,  upon  going  ashore,  letters  from 
those  most  dear  to  me,  which  had  long  awaited  my  arrival ; 
also  one  from  a  brother  then  in  California.  He  stated  that 
immediately  on  hearing  of  my  misfortunes  he  started  for  San 
Francisco  to  see  Commodore  Jones,  then  on  that  station,  and 
to  induce  him  to  make  an  effort  for  my  release. 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  217 

On  making  his  business  known,  the  gallant  commodore 
informed  him  that  he  had  already  heard  of  it,  and  had  de- 
spatched the  sloop-of-war  Levant  for  my  rescue,  in  the  full 
confidence  that  the  enterprise  would  be  successful.  When 
I  was  telling  the  Indian  council  that  nourishing  story  of  my 
consequence  at  home,  and  of  the  big  ships  and  little  ships,  the 
big  guns  and  little  guns,  that  were  at  my  command,  ready 
to  avenge  any  mischief  they  might  do  me,  I  little  thought 
how  literally  the  action  of  our  government,  and  the  spon- 
taneous kindness  of  Commodore  Jones,  were  verifying  my 
words.  The  sympathy  manifested  in  my  behalf  by  the  gal- 
lant  commodore  deserves  more  than  this  passing  notice. 
My  brother  also  left  a  deposit  of  funds  against  my  arrival, 
if  it  ever  occurred,  of  the  probability  of  which  he  was  in 
some  doubt ;  also  his  address,  and  that  of  another  brother, 
who  was  then  at  the  mines.  I  could  learn  but  little  as  to 
the  fate  of  my  vessel,  or  of  my  effects  on  board,  except  that 
she  had  duly  arrived  there,  and,  after  much  disagreement 
and  dispute  among  the  company,  had  been  sold  for  a  trifle 
above  the  costs  of  repair  on  the  passage.  This  operation,  I 
thought,  savored  little  of  Yankee  shrewdness;  since  we 
arrived  at  a  later  date,  with  a  vessel  of  about  the  same  size 
age  and  value,  at  a  time  when  shipping  was  in  less  demand, 
and  sold  her  for  nearly  three  times  the  amount.  I  was 
happy  to  meet  many  acquaintances,  who  gave  me  a  hearty 
welcome,  and  showed  me  kindness  I  can  never  forget. 

The  schooner  J.  Pringle,  from  which  we  parted  on  issuing 
from  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  arrived  in  port  very  soon 
after  us,  having  touched  at  Valparaiso.  Her  captain  said 
that  he  found  thf  sloop-of-war  Vandalia  at  Valparaiso,  to 
obtain  chains  and  an  anchor,  as  she  had  lost  one  anchor  and 


218  THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

one  hundred  and  thirty  fathoms  of  chain  in  Possession  Bay, 
and  was  obliged  to  double  Cape  Horn.  She  was  to  sail  again 
for  Patagonia  as  soon  as  the  damages  were  repaired,  enter- 
ing the  western  mouth  of  the  straits.  Captain  B.  reported 
my  escape,  and  that  I  was  safe  on  board  the  Hopewell,  for 
California,  informing  the  officers  that  he  parted  company 
with  me  at  Mercy  Harbor  —  intelligence  that  was  received 
with  demonstrations  of  lively  pleasure. 

Being  unable  to  obtain  any  information  of  my  personal 
effects,  left  on  the  John  Allyne,  I  left  this  mushroom  city 
on  the  third  day  after  my  arrival,  and  took  passage  in  the 
steamer  Senator  for  Sacramento,  at  the  moderate  fare  of 
twenty-five  dollars  for  a  passage  of  a  few  hours'  duration. 
I  found  this  city  of  rag  houses  full  of  the  indications -of  its 
recent  and  rapid  settlement.  The  streets  abounded  in  mud,  a 
foot  or  more  in  depth.  Here  I  recovered  my  chest,  but  the 
trunks  containing  my  clothing  were  missing.  Our  company, 
it  appeared,  had  broken  up,  and  its  members  were  dispersed 
hither  and  thither  in  the  mines,  every  man  for  himself.  My 
brothers,  as  near  as  I  could  ascertain,  were  seventy  miles 
distant,  possibly  removed  to  the  Middle  Fork  of  the  Ameri- 
can river,  and  I  decided  to  start  on  foot.  Accordingly,  hav- 
ing purchased,  at  enormous  prices,  a  pair  of  red  flannel 
blankets,  thick  boots,  a  rifle  and  revolver,  and  other  neces- 
sary equipments,  I  set  out  for  the  mines  the  next  morning, 
in  company  with  two  or  three  persons  from  the  States.  The 
road  was  exceedingly  muddy,  but  materially  improved  after 
passing  Slitter's  Fort.  We  had  travelled  ten  miles,  when  I 
found  that  my  feet  were  so  badly  blistered  that  I  could 
proceed  no  farther,  and  advised  my  companions  to  go  on  with- 
out  me.  My  fe»t  were  in  fact  almost  completely  skinned. 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  219 

After  resting  at  a  public-house  till  the  next  morning,  and 
encasing  my  sore  feet  in  a  pair  of  poor,  thin  shoes,  I  pursued 
my  journey.  1  made  very  slow  progress.  An  ox-team 
overtook  me,  the  owner  of  which  kept  a  house,  or,  more  prop- 
erly speaking,  a  booth,  for  boarding  and  lodging  miners, 
five  or  six  miles  ihead.  He  kindly  offered  me  a  ride,  which 
I  gladly  accepted,  and  lodged  with  him  for  the  night. 

My  journey  the  next  day  was  less  fatiguing ;  on  the  day 
following  I  arrived  at  Georgetown,  where  I  found  that  my 
brothers  had  built  them  a  house  and  spent  the  winter,  but 
had  now  left  the  place,  and  removed  to  the  Middle  Fork. 
The  distance  was  twenty  miles  by  one  route  and  fifteen  by 
another.  The  longest  road  was  considered  the  best,  and  I 
followed  it,  lodging  at  night  in  a  low  grog-shop,  denomi- 
nated an  inn.  A  snow-storm  detained  me  here  during  the 
next  forenoon.  By  noon  it  appeared  to  have  cleared  up, 
and  I  resumed  my  march,  but  had  not  gone  more  than  a 
mile  before  it  began  snowing  again,  as  fast  as  before  ;  yet  I 
was  resolved  not  to  turn  back.  The  snow,  however,  fell  so 
fast,  and  with  increasing  violence,  and  the  road  was  so 
wretched,  that  this  resolution  was  somewhat  shaken.  The 
way  led  through  a  forest  of  lofty  pines,  the  land  broken  by 
deep  gulches  and  high  hills.  As  I  trudged  along  through 
the  deep  snow,  my  attention  was  suddenly  attracted  to  a 
clump  of  bushes  by  the  wayside,  that  appeared  to  wave  to 
and  fro,  as  if  agitated  by  something  more  than  wind.  I  felt 
for  my  knife  and  pistol,  to  make  sure  they  were  where  they 
could  be  made  immediately  available,  placed  my  hand  on 
the  lock  of  my  rifle,  and  awaited  in  silence  the  approach  of 
my  unseen  visitor.  Presently  a  pair  of  large,  glistening 
eyes  glared  at  me  through  ci  opening  in  the  bushes.  Noth- 


220  THE  CAPTIVE  IN  PATAGONIA. 

ing  else  was  discernible ;  the  form,  and  even  the  head,  of 
the  animal  to  whom  these  fierce  optics  appertained,  could 
not  be  made  out.  But  their  gaze  was  fixed  steadily  upon 
me,  and  I  returned  it  with  equal  steadiness,  if  not  equal 
brilliancy  and  effect,  without  once  changing  my  position.  I 
had  heard  of  looking  wild  animals  out  of  countenance, 
and  determined  to  try  the  experiment,  before  resorting  to 
any  other  decisive  measures.  After  gazing  fixedly  at  the 
mysterious  occupant  of  the  thicket  for  a  few  minutes,  he 
turned  and  walked  leisurely  away,  giving  me  only  an  im- 
perfect view  of  his  figure.  So  far  as  I  could  distinguish 
the  shape,  it  appeared  to  be  a  grisly  bear,  though  not  of  the 
largest  size.  I  was  glad  to  get  rid  of  so  ugly  a  customer 
on  such  easy  terms,  and  went  on  my  way  rejoicing,  though 
it  was  a  weary  and  desolate  one. 

Being  very  much  fatigued,  I  halted  at  the  foot  of  a  large 
oak-tree,  as  the  shades  of  evening  were  closing  around  me, 
with  the  design  of  climbing  it,  and  spending  the  night  as 
comfortably  as  I  could  in  its  branches,  —  the  lodging  that 
I  had  anticipated  might  be  the  only  available  one.  But, 
after  a  few  minutes'  rest,  I  roused  my  flagging  energies  and 
concluded  to  feel  —  for  I  could  not  see  —  my  way  a  little 
further,  before  roosting  for  the  night.  The  darkness  of  the 
*jight,  deepened  by  the  storm,  hid  the  path  so  effectually, 
that  the  Yankee  faculty  of  guessing  was  called  into  abun- 
dant exercise.  I  trudged  along,  however,  with  dogged  deter- 
mination, which  was  very  soon  rewarded.  Half  a  mile  had 
scarcely  been  passed,  when  a  bright  light  greeted  me,  issuing 
from  a  tent.  Walking  up  to  it,  I  found  it  occupied  by  three 
men,  emigrants  from  the  vicinity  of  my  native  place.  They 
cordially  -welcomed  and  hospitably  entertained  me,  oil 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  221 

learning  who  I  was,  and  promised  me  every  asfc..«tanee  in 
their  power. 

The  next  morning  I  set  out  again,  and  reached  the  river. 
I  was  at  no  loss  to  designate  the  spot  where  my  brothers 
were  likely  to  be  found,  but  a  formidable  barrier  inter- 
posed :  a  rapid  and  swollen  stream  separated  us,  just  as  we 
were  almost  within  speaking  distance.  I  walked  along  the 
shore  to  find  a  log  or  some  wood  with  which  to  construct  a 
float ;  nothing  could  be  found.  It  was  a  grievous  disap- 
pointment ;  my  evil  star,  I  thought,  had  not  yet  waned. 
At  the  opposite  shore,  fastened  to  the  branch  of  a  tree,  lay 
a  snug  little  raft,  as  if  in  mockery.  I  must  spend  the 
night,  it  seemed,  on  the  river  banks,  without  food  or  shelter, 
and  within  sight  of  my  friends.  Just  before  night  I  was 
fortunate  enough  to  descry  a  man  on  the  further  shore,  who 
appeared  to  be  on  the  look-out  for  some  one,  and  hailed  him. 
He  answered,  and  forthwith  took  me  over.  I  was  soon  in 
the  presence  of  my  two  brothers,  neither  of  whom  at  first 
recognized  me.  It  was  a  happy  meeting,  and  on  their  part 
wholly  unexpected,  as  they  had  given  me  up  for  lost. 
After  many  congratulations  and  innumerable  questions, 
rapidly  interchanged,  I  mentioned  the  difficulty  I  had  in 
making  the  last  stage  of  the  journey  to  them,  —  the  passage 
of  the  river.  They  said  that  they  were  on  the  look-out  that 
evening  for  one  of  their  number;  otherwise,  I  might  hava 
staid  there  a  week  without  attracting  the  attention  of  any- 
body. ^They  congratulated  me  on  my  ill  success  in  search- 
ing for  a  log,  or  the  materials  to  construct  a  float.  The 
attempt  to  cross  would  have  been  extremely  hazardous,  and 
very  likely  fatal.  The  river  was  full  of  rapids,  eccentric 
currents,  and  other  perils,  making  it  at  all  times  difficult  to 


222  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

cross,  with  the  best  facilities  that  could  be  commanded. 
Of  all  this  I  had  ample  confirmation  in  no  long  time  after, 
Two  men  started  to  paddle  themselves  over  in  a  canoe  at 
the  same  place.  Before  they  reached  the  opposite  shore, 
their  canoe  was  borne  down  the  stream  into  the  rapids,  and 
dashed  to  pieces  against  the  rocks.  One  of  them  was 
drowned ;  the  other  caught  the  top  of  a  small  tree  just 
before  reaching  the  rapids.  By  collecting  all  the  ropes  and 
lines  we  could  find,  attaching  a  stone  to  one  end  and  throw- 
ing it  within  his  reach,  the  means  of  rescue,  after  several 
trials,  were  put  into  his  power.  Such  was  the  roar  of  the 
waters  we  could  not  speak  in  tones  audible  by  him,  but 
made  signs  to  him  to  secure  the  rope  about  his  body,  and  he 
was  drawn  to  the  shore  in  safety.  A  similar  accident  after- 
wards happened  to  one  of  my  brothers,  in  attempting  to 
cross  with  another  man  upon  a  raft.  The  swift  current 
drifted  them  within  the  power  of  the  rapids,  and  it  was  only 
by  the  greatest  exertions  that  they  escaped  the  boiling  abyss 
below. 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  223 


CHAPTER   XII. 

A  gigantic  speculation,  with  a  dwarfish  result  —  Peiils  of  waters  —  Sick- 
ness and  bereavement  —  Growth  of  Sacramento  and  San  Francisco  — 
Voyage  homeward  —  Imposition  on  shipboard  —  Panama  —  Havana  — 
Home  —  Concluding  observations  —  Practicability  of  Christian  missions 
in  Patagonia  considered. 

ON  my  arrival  at  the  mines,  T  found  my  brothers  en- 
gaged in  a  company  of  twenty  men,  organized  for  the 
purpose  of  tunnelling  a  mountain  ridge,  and  digging  a 
raceway  at  its  base,  with  a  view  to  dam  the  river  and 
turn  it  through  the  tunnel.  By  this  means  the  bed  of  the 
river,  for  a  mile  or  more,  would  be  laid  bare,  and  gold  in 
great  profusion,  it  was  believed,  would  be  discovered. 
Nineteen  of  the  members  were  on  the  ground ;  the  twentieth 
was  unable  to  come ;  and,  though  there  were  several  ap- 
plicants for  the  vacancy,  I  was  chosen  to  fill  it.  We 
commenced  operations  in  about  a  week.  It  may  give  a 
clearer  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  work,  to  state  that  an 
excavation,  twelve  feet  wide  by  seven  deep,  was  made,  by 
blasting  through  rock  (slate  and  granite)  a  distance  of 
over  a  hundred  feet.  The  race  was  nearly  half  a  mile  in 
length;  the  prices  paid  for  every  article  of  food  were 
enormous.  Before  turning  the  river,  we  let  out  the  ex- 
19 


224  THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

peeled  field  of  gold  to  be  worked  by  seven  nundred  men, 
who  were  to  give  us  one-half  of  the  produce ;  there  was 
great  expectation.  The  work  was  the  greatest  of  this 
nature  that  had  yet  been  undertaken  in  California;  we 
had  worked  hard  through  a  whole  season,  and  brought  it 
to  a  successful  completion,  without  any  fatal  accident, 
though  several  dangerous  circumstances  had  threatened  to 
retard  its  progress.  Everything  being  prepared,  the  dam 
was  closed,  the  river  rose,  —  pressed,  as  if  angrily,  against 
the  new  barrier  that  opposed  its  wonted  flow,  —  and  then 
sullenly  explored  the  novel  course  that  solicited  its  waters 
The  dry  channel  was  eagerly  attacked;  but,  alas  for 
human  hopes !  it  proved  to  be  anything  but  rich ;  in  fact, 
it  was  less  favorable  for  working  than  the  average,  and 
the  diggers  abandoned  the  spot,  leaving  the  company  cha- 
grined, and  greatly  disheartened  at  their  fruitless  con- 
clusion. 

I  came  very  near  being  delivered  from  this  disappoint- 
ment, and  from  all  other  earthly  cares,  —  those  of  author- 
ship included, — by  a  hasty  trip  into  the  rapids.  During 
the  intervals  of  our  work,  a  young  man  of  the  company 
undertook  with  me  to  construct  a  canoe,  and  establish  a 
ferry  for  passengers  across  the  river.  Our  skiff,  on  its 
completion,  was  carried  by  all  hands  to  the  river  bank,  and 
committed  to  the  stream,  with  all  the  ceremonies  customary 
on  the  launching  of  larger  craft.  A  successful  adventure 
was  made,  the  next  day,  with  one  passenger.  On  the 
following  day  six  miners  applied  for  passage ;  I  took  half 
of  them  on  board,  with  their  picks,  pans  and  shovels,  and 
started  with  them.  We  had  approached  within  ten  feet 
of  the  opposite  bank,  when  a  counter-current  suddenly 


THE    CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA.  225 

struck  us,  whirled  the  head  of  the  boat  from  the  direction 
of  the  shore,  and,  in  spite  of  the  utmost  exertion,  carried 
us  into  the  stream,  and  almost  over  the  rapids.  By  a  suc- 
cessful manoeuvre  we  turned  her  head  up  stream,  and 
paddled  moderately  till  we  had  passed  the  dangerous  spot. 
At  length,  after  a  great  struggle  with  imminent  danger, 
in  the  midst  of  which  the  passengers  were  praying  and 
crying  for  mercy  and  help,  we  reached  some  trees,  standing 
in  the  swollen  stream.  By  taking  hold  of  one  of  the 
branches  the  boat  was  brought  to,  but  with  such  violence 
as  to  dash  in  her  side ;  we  sprang  safely  into  the  trees  as 
soon  as  the  boat  struck.  Our  friends  on  shore  cut  poles, 
and  extended  them  to  us,  by  help  of  which  we  were  soon 
on  terra  firma.  Our  boat  rolled  over,  and  sunk.  An  attack 
of  dysentery  soon  after  interrupted  my  work,  but  not  for  a 
great  length  of  time. 

After  the  failure  of  our  river  speculation,  I  spent  some 
time  "  prospecting "  for  a  desirable  "  digging."  Before 
one  was  discovered  that  offered  much  inducement,  I  was 
again  prostrated  by  illness,  during  which  my  brothers 
joined  me,  with  the  mournful  intelligence  that  my  little 
son  was  no  more !  These  heavy  tidings,  at  such  a  time, 
proved  almost  too  much  for  an  enfeebled  body  and  anxious 
mind;  it  was  the  thought  of  my  little  family  that  nerved 
ray  spirit  against  despair,  in  the  darkest  hours  of  captivity. 
A  blow  there  turned  my  strength  into  weakness,  and  my 
weakness  well-nigh  into  absolute  helplessness. 

It  would  be  too  far  from  the  purpose  of  this  volume 
to  solicit  the  reader's  company  through  all  my  wanderings 
for  a  year  and  a  half  in  this  wonderful  country,  to  which 
BO  many  high  hopes  are  carried,  and  from  which  so  many 


226  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

sad  iisappoi  itments  are  daily  borne.  It  is  enough  to  say 
that  I  had  six  successive  attacks  of  sickness,  the  last  the 
most  severe  of  all ;  I  was  brought  to  death's  door,  and 
had  little  hope  of  seeing  home  again.-  After  a  month's 
illness,  my  medical  attendant  advised  a  return  to  the 
States,  as  soon  as  I  could  bear  the  exercise  of  riding.  At 
the  earliest  day  prudence  would  allow,  I  was  carried,  with 
all  practicable  care,  to  Sacramento,  a  city  I  had  not  seen 
since  I  passed  through  it  a  year  and  a  half  before.  Itsv 
appearance  was  greatly  improved  in  every  respect.  With 
the  increased  supply  of  necessaries  and  conveniences,  the 
fabulous  prices  of  eighteen  months  before  had  given  place 
to  more  sober,  authentic,  and  matter-of-fact  demands  ; 
steamboat  fare  had  fallen  from  twenty-five  dollars  to  one, 
and  the  crowding  and  shouting  of  runners  compared  with 
the  most  active  scenes  of  the  kind  to  be  witnessed  in  New 
York  or  Albany.  We  arrived  at  San  Francisco  during  the 
night;  as  the  day  dawned,  and  the  mist. that  covered  the 
town  was  lifted,  the  spectacle  that  met  the  view  was  like 
enchantment ;  a  compact  and  well-built  city  had  risen,  its 
beautiful  harbor  lined  with  extensive  wharves,  spacious 
warehouses,  and  elegant  dwellings,  fronting  upon  broad 
streets,  and  all  appliances  of  business  and  pleasure  offering 
themselves  in  profusion. 

I  walked  to  the  nearest  hotel,  as  I  was  too  feeble  to  go  a 
hundred  yards.  The  friend  who  accompanied  me,  and  took 
upon  himself  all  care  of  the  voyage  in  respect  to  both  of 
us,  found  that  the  steamers  were  crowded  to  the  utmost, 
and  engaged  passage  in  a  bark  for  San  Juan  del  Sud,  or 
Panama.  We  examined  the  printed  bill  of  fare,  and 
thought  it  wculd  be  very  satisfactory,  if  its  promises  were 


THE    CAPTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  227 

fulfilled.  I  noticed,  however,  that  the  potatoes  on  board 
were  of  bal  quality,  and  suggested  the  propriety  of  raising 
a  committoe  of  passengers  to  investigate  the  stores ;  but  the 
motion  was  overruled  as  unnecessary. 

We  put  to  sea  with  about  a  hundred  and  thirty  pas- 
sengers, many  of  whom  suffered  severely  from  sea-sickness. 
These  improved  in  a  few  days,  and  began  to  feel  like 
eating ;  but,  to  their  consternation,  instead  of  wholesome 
provisions  and  fresh  water,  nothing  was  to  be  had  but 
spoiled  meat,  and  water  that  was  unfit  to  drink,  having 
been  put  up  in  old  beer-casks  and  become  tainted,  —  and  a 
short  allowance  of  that.  We  were  stinted  to  three  pints  a 
day  each  for  drinking  and  culinary  purposes.  The  only 
wholesome  and  eatable  articles  of  food  were  pork,  bread 
and  dried  apples.  Tea  and  coffee  were  too  wretched  to  be 
used.  Those  wiseacres  who  had  so  summarily  declined  any 
examination  of  the  provisions  before  starting  now  came  to 
me  with  very  long  faces,  confessing  their  error  when  it  was 
too  late  to  be  remedied.  For  forty-eight  days  they  lan- 
guished on  this  miserable  fare.  There  were  many  quarrels 
and  contentions  on  board,  growing  out  of  these  difficulties, 
and  some  cases  of  sickness.  We  buried  two  men  at  sea 
and  one  the  day  after  our  arrival  in  port ;  and  the  whole 
company,  in  fact,  were  little  better  than  skeletons  when 
they  reached  San  Juan.  As  to  myself,  my  appetite  craved 
but  little  food,  and  the  sea  air  agreed  so  well  with  me  that 
I  had  almost  recovered  on  arrival  there. 

We  mounted  mules  jn  the  following  day,  and  crossed  to 
Lake  Nicaragua,  which  we  reached  just  too  late  for  the 
steamer.  Some  of  the  company  went  up  the  lake  and  pro- 
cured snail  sail  to  take  them  across,  but  I  decided  to 
19* 


228  THE    CAPTITE    IN    PATAGONIA. 

remain  till  ihe  arrival  of  another  regular  steamer  from  San 
Francil  co.  This  detained  us  two  weeks,  when  we  pro- 
ceeded to  Georgetown,  on  the  Atlantic  shore,  and  took 
passage  on  board  the  steamer  Daniel  Webster,  for  New 
York,  via  Havana.  As  we  passed  out  of  the  harbor  a 
salute  was  fired  for  the  United  States  steamer  Saranac, 
then  visiting  that  port  to  investigate  the  afiair  of  the 
British  brig  Express  firing  into  one  of  our  steamers  a  short 
time  before,  on  account  of  a  refusal  to  pay  certain  port 
charges.  When  fairly  outside  the  bar,  the  tables  were  set, 
and  the  hungry  passengers  had  begun  fortifying  their 
stomachs  with  eager  emulation,  when  I  perceived  a  com- 
motion among  the  officers  and  men  betokening  something 
wrong.  Presently  the  head  pump  was  working  lively,  and 
the  men  appeared,  running  with  buckets  of  water.  To  the 
questions  rained  upon  them  they  made  no  reply,  but 
hastened  along  in  silence.  The  boat  had  taken  fire,  but  it 
was  promptly  extinguished  before  many  of  the  passengers 
suspected  it. 

On  arrival  at  Havana  we  anchored,  after  dark,  under  the 
walls  of  the  fort,  and  our  fires  were  allowed  to  go  out. 
During  the  night  a  breeze  sprung  up,  producing  a  swell  in 
the  harbor,  which  rendered  our  position  a  dangerous  one,  as 
there  was  not  room  for  the  boat  to  swing  around  clear  of 
the  rocks.  The  passengers  all  felt  extremely  anxious  for 
their  safety ;  but  the  fires  were  renewed,  sufficient  steam 
was  soon  generated  to  work  the  ponderous  engine,  the 
steamer  swung  slowly  and  safely  around,  and  we  were  safe. 
The  Spanish  guard-boats  ordered  us  back  to  our  first  an- 
chorage, but  the  captain  replied  that  he  was  master  of  the 
vessel  and  shou  i  j  ut  her  in  a  place  of  safety. 


THE    C1PTIVE    IN    PATAGONIA.  229 

The  next  morning  we  took  in  coal  and  started  for  New 
York.  I  was  seized,  on  the  following  day,  for  the  first 
time  in  my  life,  with  chills  and  fever,  but  partially  re- 
sovered,  under  care  of  the  ship's  physician,  before  arriving 
in  port.  We  made  New  York  without  accident,  and  having 
spent  two  days  in  the  city,  the  steamer  State  of  Maine  bore 
me  to  my  home,  January  13th,  1852,  —  after  an  absence  of 
three  years,  lacking  a  month,  —  with  a  heart  rising  grate- 
fully to  God  for  his  many  interpositions  in  my  behalf,  to 
deliver  me  from  the  perils  of  the  sea  and  the  perils  of  the 
land. 

It  can  scarcely  be  necessary,  for  the  benefit  of  any  reader 
who  has  followed  me  through  the  course  of  this  narrative, 
to  add  any  remarks  on  the  hazards  of  visiting  Patagonia, 
or  the  consequences  likely  to  ensue  in  the  event  of  ship- 
wreck on  that  desolate  coast.  The  land  is  dreary,  and  it 
were  a  sufficient  trial  of  fortitude  to  be  cast  away  upon  it, 
—  to  run  the  imminent  risk  of  perishing  by  cold,  and 
hunger  and  thirst.  But  the  extremest  peril  arising  from 
the  poverty  of  the  country  is  exhilarating,  compared  with 
the  tender  mercies  of  the  people.  Rather  than  trust  to 
their  protection,  better  hide  from  the  light  of  day  and  gnaw 
the  bark  of  stunted  trees  for  food,  drinking,  as  1  did,  from 
the  briny  sea.  The  dread  which  has  deterred  voyagert 
from  entering  the  country,  or  even  touching  the  shore, 
unless  armed  to  the  teeth,  offering  articles  of  traffic  with 
one  hand  and  holding  a  loaded  musket  in  the  other,  is  no 
more  than  reasonable.  I  do  not  know  that  the  country  has 
ever  been  explored  by  civilized  man.  The  officers  and  men 
of  tke  Adventure  and  Beagle,  two  ships  sent  out  by  the 


230  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

British  Admiralty  to  survey  the  Straits  of  Magellan  in  the 
years  1826,  1830, 1832  and  1834,  examined  and  penetrated 
the  country  to  a  greater  extent  than  any  other  voyagers. 

If  the  other  tribes  inhabiting  the  country  resemble  that 
with  which  I  was  domesticated,  it  must  be  a  hazardous 
enterprise  for  missionaries  to  attempt  the  propagation  of 
the  gospel  among  them.  Even  apart  from  this,  the  diffi- 
culty of  gaining  a  subsistence  there  must  prove  an  almost 
insuperable  obstacle.  The  barrenness  of  the  soil,  and  the 
want  of  water,  render  agriculture  a  desperate  resource,  and 
there  is  no  spontaneous  product  of  the  earth  to  sustain 
life.  To  live  like  the  savages  would  be  simply  impossible 
to  men  who  have  been  habituated  to  the  comforts  of  civil- 
ized life ;  I  could  not  have  survived  many  months  of  such 
hardship.  .  Provisions  would  have  to  be  imported ;  this 
difficulty  seems  sufficient  to  discourage,  if  not  to  prevent, 
efforts  in  that  direction.  When,  to  this,  we  add  the 
cruelty,  the  duplicity,  the  treachery  and  blood-thirstiness 
of  the  people,  I  am  unable  to  conjecture  through  what 
direct  agency  they  can  be  reached  by  the  influences  of 
Christianity.  Whether  access  to  them  could  be  gained 
through  their  Spanish  American  neighbors,  or  by  enticing 
some  of  them,  when  young,  into  a  more  civilized  society, 
and  so  opening  an  avenue  of  peaceable  and  beneficial 
intercourse,  it  is  not  easy  to  conclude,  without  actual 
experiment. 

Since  returning  to  this  country,  these  views  have  been 
confirmed,  by  the  narrative  recently  published  of  the  .sad  fate 
of  the  English  missionaries  sent  to  Patagonia.  Captain  Gar- 
diner, and  three  or  four  Cornish  fishermen,  who  volunteered 
for  this  labor  of  love,  were  landed  by  a  passing  vesse1  some- 


THE   CAPTIVE  IN   PATAGONIA.  231 

where  on  the  inhospitable  coast.  So  inveterate  was  the 
hostility  of  the  natives,  they  durst  not  trust  themselves 
among  them;  they  were  driven,  in  their  covered  barges, 
from  place  to  place;  like  their  Master,  having  not,  on  the 
land,  where  to  lay  their  heads.  Arrangements  had  been 
made,  before  leaving  England,  to  have  provisions  follow 
them ;  thirty-six  barrels  of  provisions,  destined  for  them, 
were  found  some  time  after,  by  a  government  vessel,  at 
the  Falkland  Islands.  The  commander  took  them  on  board, 
and  sailed  for  the  place  of  their  destination;  upon  their 
first  landing,  traces  of  the  unfortunate  men  were  found; 
and,  on  thorough  search,  directions  were  discovered  to 
look  for  them  at  another  place.  They  were  followed  from 
ono  stopping-place  to  another,  till  the  grave  of  one  of  them 
was  found,  who  had  died  of  starvation.  The  survivors 
were  traced  to  a  spot  where  their  boats  lay  on  the  shore, 
unoccupied;  at  a  little  distance  off  lay  their  bodies,  un- 
buried,  their  bones  bleaching  on  the  sand.  The  humane 
discoverers  buried  their  remains.  On  lifting  a  stone  from 
the  mouth  of  a  cave,  there  was  disclosed  a  narrative  of 
their  sufferings,  and  of  successive  deaths,  written  by  Cap- 
tain Gardiner ;  at  the  date  of  the  last  entry  he  had  not 
tasted  food  for  four  days.  In  all  probability,  he  shared 
the  fate  of  his  brethren, — starvation, — and  with  him  closed 
their  melancholy  history.  A  sad  tale !  Yet  there  were 
days  and  weeks  when  I  would  have  gladly  exchanged  my 
lot  for  wanderings  like  theirs,  upon  the  desert  shore.  But 
from  those  horrors  I  was  mercifully  delivered;  they,  in 
the  prosecution  of  a  sacred  and  benevolent  errand,  were 
cut  down  by  the  dispensation  of  Him  who  seeth  not  as 
man  seeth. 


232  THE   CAPTIVE   IN    PATAGONIA. 

It  may  occur  to  some  reader  that  the  deceptions  I  prao 
tised  upon  the  natives,  as  frankly  narrated,  had  a  tendency 
to  impair  their  confidence  in  white  men,  and  thus  to  in- 
crease the  difficulty  of  reaching  them  by  Christian  influ- 
ences, and  to  render  the  lot  of  any  poor  man  hereafter 
falling  into  their  hands  more  desperate  than  it  would 
otherwise  be.  Perhaps  so ;  yet  the  danger  does  not  seem 
so  imminent,  when  we  consider  that  they  are  entire 
strangers  to  truth.  Probably  no  Patagonian's  experience 
or  observation  could  furnish  an  example  of  consistent 
veracity,  and  they  would  not  be  likely  to  suspect  the  ex- 
istence of  such  a  virtue  in  any  one.  It  is  apparent,  from 
their  behavior  in  the  "  last  scene  of  all "  with  me,  that 
from  first  to  last  they  vehemently  mistrusted  my  state- 
ments; and  their  most  likely  comment  on  the  report  of 
the  chief  must  have  been,  "I  told  you  so."  The  shock 
was  less  than  if  they  had  reposed  a  more  generous  con- 
fidence. 

The  notoriety  which  was  given  to  my  capture  by  th<5 
newspaper  press  called  forth  many  expressions  of  sym- 
pathy from  persons  who  knew  nothing  of  me,  except  that 
I  was  a  fellow-being  in  distress.  To  all  such  I  tender  my 
thanks.  It  is  a  grateful  duty,  in  parting  company  with 
the  reader,  to  renew  the  expression  of  thankful  remem- 
brance with  which  I  recall  the  benefactors  who,  under  God, 
rescued  and  befriended  me,  —  Mr.  Hall,  and  the  noble- 
hearted  captains,  who  fed  and  clothed  me  when  hungry  and 
naked,  and  conveyed  me  gratuitously  to  my  destination. 
Nor  can  I  forget  the  prompt  action  of  the  Honorable 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  the  efficient  exertions  of  the  officers 
of  the  Vandalia,  or  the  generosity  of  Commodore  Jones. 


THE   CAPTIVE   IN   PATAGONIA.  233 

I  would  also  acknowledge,  with  the  liveliest  gratitude,  my 
obligations  to  the  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  *  the  Hon.  R.  C. 
Winthrop,  the  Hon.  George  Evans,  of  Maine,  and  to  the 
Hon.  Joseph  Grinnell,  and  the  Hon.  John  H.  Clifford,  of 
New  Bedford ;  —  all  of  whom,  when  informed  of  my  cap- 
tivity, volunteered  their  aid,  and  made  those  represent- 
ations to  the  Navy  department  which  resulted  in  the 
despatch  of  the  Vandalia  on  her  humane  mission.  Nor 
must  I  omit  to  add  my  thanks  to  Mr.  Denison,  who  kindly 
bore  their  memorials  to  Washington,  and  laid  them  before 
the  department.  If  I  acquired  nothing  more  by  my 
unlooked-for  experience,  I  at  least  gained  a  warmer  pa- 
triotism, and  a  profounder  sense  of  the  benignant  wisdom 
of  Providence. 

*  Since  this  was  written  he  has  passed  beyond  the  reach  of  my  thanks; 
but  this  fact  cannot  suppress  the  utterance  of  gratitude  which  I  owe  to 
his  august  memory. 


Important  Books. 


BEHAVING;  or,    Papers  upon   Children's  Etiquette.      By  the 

author  of  "The  Ugly  Girl  Papers."     Price, $i  oo 

Hundreds  and  thousands  of  American  parents  and  teachers  are 
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table  of  contents.  The  first  chapter  is  entitled  "Toward 
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AT  EVENTIDE $x  », 

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NeJtemiah  Adams,  D.  D.,  of  Boston,  which  furnishes  the 
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the  venerable  author.  Their  history  also  commends  them. 
Four  or  five  years  since,  Dr.  Adams  made  a  visit  to  his  son, 
an  honored  pastor  at  Charleston,  S.  C.  While  there  he  was 
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ing photograph,  accompanies  each  volume  as  a  frontispiece.— 
N.  Y.  Observtr. 


SUNDAY-SCHOOL  HELPS. 


THE   LESSON    IN    STORY.     Pansy's  Sunday-School  Lesson 
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5.  Names  of  C  hrist.  14.    Consider  the  Lilies. 


6.  Praise  Concert.  15.    Brevity  of  Life 

7.  1  he  Morning  Star.  16.    The  Two  Way; 

8.  The  N'ew  Year.  17.   Rock  of  Ages. 


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SUNDAY-SCHOOL  HELPS. 

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SMITH'S  BIBLE  DICTIONARY.  New  edition,  with  ad<fi- 
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JTTST       IE,  IE  -A.  3D  "Z"  - 

THE   CHAUTAUQUA    GIRLS  AT  HOME- 

By  Pansy.     I2mo.     Illustrated. I  50 

•*  Pansy  knows  girls,  and  has  the  gift  of  story-telling,  by  which 
the  hard  facts  of  every-day  life  take  on  a  charm  as  of  fairy-land.  No 
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pathos.  It  is  good  summer  reading,  for  beguiling  away  hours,  and 
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"Pansy's  last  book,  'The  Chautauqua  Girls  at  Home,'  is  as 
fresh  and  inspiring  as  a  fine  morning  in  June.  The  four  friends, 
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patience  and  hope  in  fighting  hard  battles." 

Boston:  D.  LOTHROP  &>  CO.,  Publishers. 


FROM  DIFFERENT  STANDPOINTS. 

By  Pansy  and  Faye  Huntington.  12mo.  Price  $1.50, 
Boston:  D.  Lothrop  &  Co., 

If  there  is  any  better  writer  of  Sunday  School  books  than 
"  Pansy,"  we  should  like  to  make  her  acquaintance,  sha 
has  a  rare  tact  in  story  telling,  and  knows  quite  as  well  what 
to  omit  as  what  to  say.  Even  the  sternest  critics,  of  S.  S. 
'Literature  surrender  to  Pansy,  in  spite  of  themselves,  and 
tonfess  that  her  books  are  worth  reading. 

"  From  Different  Standpoints  "  is  not  quite  so  broad  in  its 
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The  story  is  so  full  of  life,  though  made  up  largely  of  letters 
and  journals,  the  characters  are  so  sharply  drawn  with  so 
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and  the  religious  element  is  of  so  high  a  type,  and  yet  withal 
feo  natural,  that  the  most  careless  reader  is  fascinated,  and 
feels  the  inspiration  of  a  noble  Christian  life.  Such  books, 
are  a  valuable  addition  Jo  any  S.  S.  libraries,  and  will  sup- 
plement the  best  religious  teachings  of  Bible-class  or  pulpit. 

As  to  the  double  authorship  of  the  book,  Faye  Huntington 
/s  so  nearly  the  double  of  Pansy,  that  her  separate  work 
Cannot  be  detected. 


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YOUNG  RICK.    By  Julia  A.  Eastman.  Large 

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THE  ROMNEYS  OF  RIDGEMONT.  By 

Julia  A.  Eastman.  i6mo.  Illustrated  .  i  50 

BEULAH  ROMNEY.  By  Julia  A.  Eastman. 

16  mo.  Illustrated  .  .  .  .  .  i  50 

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there. 

SHORT-COMINGS  AND  LONG-GOINGS. 

By  Julia  A.  Eastman.     16  mo.     Illustrated,     i   25 

A  remarkabls  book,  crowded  with  remarkable  characters.  It 
is  a  picture  gallery  of  human  nature. 

KITTY    KENT'S   TROUBLES.      By  Julia 

A.  Eastman.     16  mo.     Illustrated        .         .     i   50 

"  A  delicious  April-day  style  of  book,  sunshiny  with  smiles  on 
one  pase  while  the  next  is  misty  with  tender  tears.  Almost  every 
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Dart,  the  beauty,  Amy  Searle,  the  ambitious,  high  bred,  conserv. 
ative  Anna  Matson  ;  but  next  to  Kitty  herself  sunny  little  Paul- 
ine Sedgewick  will  prove  the  general  favorite.  It  is  a  story  fully 
calculated  iO  win  both  girls  and  boys  toward  noble,  royal  ways  of 
doinf  ^Ule  as  well  as  great  things.  All  teachers  should  feel  an 
inte<  '  in  placing  it  in  the  hands  of  their  pupils." 


:BOO:K:S  -FOtt  -yoTJira-  HIEIROIES  -A^HSTID  :B:K,.A.V:EI 


VIRGINIA.     By  £F.  H.  G.Kingston.     16  mo. 

Illustrated    .......   $i   25 

A  stirring  story  of  adventure  upon  sea  and  land. 

AFRICAN  ADVENTURE  AND  ADVENT- 
URERS. By  Rev.  G.  T.  Day,  D.  D.  16 
mo.  Illustrated  ....  .  i  50 

The  stories  of  Speke,  Grant,  Baker,  Livingstone  and  Stanley 
are  put  into  simple  shape  for  the  entertainment  of  young  readers. 

NOBLE  WORKERS.     Edited  by  S.  F.  Smith, 

D.  D.     i6mo  .......     i  5a 

STORIES  OF  SUCCESS.     Edited  by  S.  F. 

Smith,  D.  D.     i6mo   .....     i   50 

Inspiring  biographies  and  records  which  kave  a  most  whole- 
some and  enduring  effect  upon  the  reader. 

MYTHS    AND    HEROES.     16   mo.      Illus- 

trated.    Edited  by  S.  F.  Smith,  D.  D  .         .     i   50 

KNIGHTS  AND  SEA   KINGS.     Edited  by 

S.  F.  Smith,  D.  D.     i2mo.     Illustrated       .     i  50 

Two  entertaining  books,  which  will  fasten  forever  the  historical 
and  geographical  lessons  of  the  school-room  firmly  in  the  stu- 
dent's mind. 

CHAPLIN'S  L^FE  OF  BENJAMIN  FRANK- 

LIN.    i6mo.     Illustrated    .         .         .         .     i   50 

LIFE  OF  AMOS  LAWRENCE.     i2mo.     111.     150 

Two  biographies  of  perennial  value.  No  worthier  books  were 
ever  offered  as  holiday  presents  for  our  American  young  men. 

WALTER   NEAL'S    EXAMPLE.      By  Rev. 

Theron  Brown.     16  mo.     Illustrated  .         .125 

Walter  Neal's  Example  is  by  Rev.  Theron  Brown,  the  editor  of 
that  very  successful  paper,  The  Youth'1  s  Companion.  The  story 
is  a  touching  one,  and  is  in  parts  so  vivid  as  to  seem  drawn  from 
the  life.  —  TV*.  Y.  Independent. 

TWO  FORTUNE-SEEKERS.  Stories  by 
Rossiter  Johnson,  Louise  Chandler  Monlton, 
E.  Stuart  Phelps,  Ella  Farman,  etc.  Fully 
illustrated  .......  i  50 


has  the  very  desirable  knack  of  imparting 
valuable  ideas  under  the  guise  of  a  pleasing  story." — The  New  Century. 

MRS.  KURD'S  NIECE,  ty  Ella  Farman.   111.  $i  50 

A  thrilling  story  for  the  girls,  especially  for  those  who  think 
they  have  a  "  mission,"  to  whom  we  commend  sturdy  English 
Hannah,  with  her  small  means,  and  her  grand  success.  Saidee 
Hurd  is  one  of  the  sweetest  girls  ever  embalmed  in  story,  and 
Lois  Gladstone  one  of  the  noblest. 

THE  COOKING  CLUB  OF  TU-WHIT 
HOLLOW.  By  Etta  Farman.  16  mo. 
Eight  full-page  illustrations  .  .  .  .  i  25 

Worth  reading  by  all  who  delight  in  domestic  romance.  —  Fall 
River  Daily  News. 

The  practical  instructions  in  housewifery,  which  are  abundant, 
are  set  in  the  midst  of  a  bright,  wholesome  story,  and  the  little 
housewives  who  figure  in  it  are  good  specimens  of  very  human, 
but  at  the  same  time  very  lovable,  little  American  girls.  It 
ought  to  be  the  most  successful  little  girls'  book  of  the  season. — 
The  A  dvance. 

A  LITTLE  WOMAN.    By  Ella  Farman.   i6m.     i  oo 

The  daintiest  of  all  juvenile  books.  From  its  merry  pages,  win- 
some Kinnie  Crosby  has  stretched  out  her  warm  little  hand  to 
help  thousands  of  young  girls. 

A  WHITE  HAND.  Vy  Ella  Farman.  i2m.  111.     i  50 

A  genuine  painting  of  American  society.     Millicent  and  Jack 
are  drawn  by  a  bold,  firm  hand.     No  one  can  lay  this  story  down 
.    until  the  last  leaf  is  turned. 


WIDE   A  WAKE. 

AN    ILLUSTRATED    MAGAZINE 

For  the  Young  Folks. 

$2.00  :F:E:R, -A_:tT:rsrTj:M:.  ZFOST-A-G-IE  DPIR/IEIF .A^' 
Edited  by  ELLA  FARMAN. 

Published  by  T>.  tOTHROP  &  CO.,  Boston,  Mass. 


It  always  contains  a  feast  of  fat  things  for  the  little  folks,  and  folks  who  are  no 
longer  little  findjthere  lost  childhood  in  its  pages.  We  are  not  saying  too  much 
when  we  say  that  its  versatile  editor  —  Ella  Farman,  is  more  fully  at  home 
in  the  child's  wonder-land  than  any  other  living  American  writer.  She  is 
thoroughly  en  rapport  with  her  readers,  gives  them  now  a  sugar  plum  of  poesy, 
now  a  dainty  jelly-cake  of  imagination,  and  cunningly  intermixes  all  the  soiid 
bread  of  thought  that  the  child's  miud  can  digest  and  assimilate.— York  Triu 
Dtmocrat. 


:F  .A.  :ET  s  TT  '  s 


FOUR   GIRLS    AT    CHAUTAUQUA.     By 

Pansy.     12  mo.     Illustrated         .         .         .  $i   50 

The  most  fascinating  "watering-place"  story  ever  published. 
Four  friends,  each  a  brilliant  girl  in  her  way,  tired  of  Saratoga 
and  Newport,  try  a  fo.  tnight  at  the  new  summer  resort  on  Chau- 
tauqua  Lake,  choosing  the  time  when  the  National  Sunday-school 
Assembly  is  in  c£.mp.  Rev.  Drs.  Vincent,  Deems,  Cuyler,  Ed- 
ward Eggleston,  Mrs.  Emily  Huntington  Miller,  move  promi- 
_nently  through  the  story. 

HOUSEHOLD  PUZZLES.    By  Pansy.    i2mo. 

Illustrated    .         .         .         .         .         .  i  50 

How  to  make  one  dollar  do  the  work  of  five.  A  family  of 
beautiful  girls  seek  to  solve  this  "puzzle."  Piquant,  humorous, 
but  written  with  an  intense  purpose. 

THE  RANDOLPHS.    By  Pansy.    12  mo.    Il- 

lustrated      .         .         .         .         .         .  i  50 

A  sequel  to  Household  Puzzles,  in  which  the  Puzzles  are  agree- 
ably disposed  of. 

GRANDPA'S  DARLINGS.  By  Pansy.   i6mo. 

Illustrated    .         .         .         .         .         .         .12$ 

A  big  book,  full  of  "good  times"  for  the  little  people  of  the 
family. 

ESTER  RIED        .         .         .         .By  Pansy,  i   50 

JULIA  RIED         ......  i   50 

THREE  PEOPLE          .         .         .         „        .  i  50 

THE  KING'S  DAUGHTER         .         „        .  i  50 

WISE  AND  OTHERWISE  .         .         „        .  i   50 

CUNNING  WORKMEN       .         .         „        .  i  25 

JESSIE  WELLS    ......  75 

DOCIA'S  JOURNAL                               „        .  75 

BERNIE'S  WHITE  CHICKEN  75 

HELEN   LESTER.  75 

A  CHRISTMAS  TIME                         „       .  15 


The  $1OOO  Prize  Series, 


Pronounced  by  the  Examining  Committee,  Rri).  Drs. 

Lincoln,  Ran  kin  and  Day,  superior  to 

any  similar  series, 


STRIKING  FOR  THE  RIGHT,      -        -  -    $1.75 

SILENT  TOM,-                           «  1.75 

EVENING  REST,      -                          -  1.50 

THE  OLD  STONE  HOUSE,       -  -       1.50 

INTO  THE  LIGHT,    -                 -        -  -       1.50 
WALTER  MCDONALD,     -        ...       1.50 

STORY  OF  THE  BLOUNT  FAMILY,    -  -       1.50 

MARGARET  WORTHINGTON,      -  1.50 

THE  WADSWORTH  BOYS,                  -  -       1.50 

GR'ICE  AVERY'S  INFLUENCE,  -  1.50 

Gi  :MPSES  THROUGH,       -                 -  1.50 

RALPH'S  POSSESSION,      -  1.50 

LUCK  OF  ALDEN  FARM,  -       1.50 

CHRONICLES  OF  SUNSET  MOUNTAIN,  -       1.50 

THE  MARBLE  PREACHER,  -       1.50 

GOLDEN  LINES,       -  -       1.50 

Sold  by  Booksellers  generally,  and  sent  by  Mail,  postpaid* 
on  receipt  of  price. 


BOSTON: 
D.  LOTHROP  &  CO.,  PUBLISHER*. 


Bourne,   Benjar.iin  Franklin 

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