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Estate  of 
Eben  F.   Draper 


i^ai:  HARVARD  COLLF-GE  LIBRARY 


BABY  WIZARD  CAMERAS 


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^B  reminds  you  of  many  pleasant  days  and 
^B,    interesting  scenes. 

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^ 11 ilir*'^^'-  l^iili    ""^^  Piniori  for  focusing. 

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1 1  Optical  Go 


Cresskill* 


JOHN  MUNROE  &  CO., 

FOREIGN  BANKERS, 


I  <No.  32  Nassau  Street,      -     New  York, 

{  No.  4  Post-Office  Sqiiare,      -  ^   Boston, 


Issue  for  cash  or  satisfactory  guarantee, 

Letters  of  Credit  for  Travellers, 

IN  POUNDS  STERLING  AND  IN   FRANCS. 


EXCHANGE    ON 

LONDON,  PARIS,  BERLIN  and  GENEVA. 


Payments  Made  and  Credits 
Opened  by  Cable. 


HOUSE    IN   PARIS, 

vMHnrofe  &  Co.,    -    -    -    7  Rue  Scribe. 


Midland  Railway 


OF  ENGLAND. 
UNS  I 

BETWEEN 


EXPRESS  TRAINS  [jyerpooi  and  London 


(Central.)  (St.  Pancras.) 

The  Midland  CoimtiM  and  West  of  England 
At  Convenient  Intervals. 
The  MIDLAND  is  the  only  line  between  lilverpool  and  I<ondon 


pasBiner  through  the  Magmidcent  and  Pictureeque  Scenery  of  the 
Peak  of  Derbyshire  and  the  Vale  of  Matlock.  Special  Express  Trains 
run  from  Liverpool  (Centi-al)  to  London  (St.  PancrsK)  for  a  reason- 
able number  of  Passeng^ers,  when  required  to  meet  the  eaiUngs  of 
Steamers  from  and  to  America. 

First  and  Third-Glass  Bininflr  Carriagres  between  Ijondon 
'St.  Pancras)  and  Olasflrow  (St.  Enoch)  by  themomingand  afternoon 
Bxpremes  in  each  direction,  leaving  Ijondon  (St.  Pancras)  at  10.90 
A.  M.  and  2.10P.  x.,  and  Olasffovr  (St.  Enoch) at  10.00  a.m.  and  1.90P.  x. 

liuncheon,  Dinner  (Table  d'Hote),  Tea.  and  other  refreshments 
served  «n  route  daily. 

Private  Drawinsr-room  Saloons  with  Lavatory  and  other  conveni- 
ences are  provided  for  the  exclusive  use  of  parties  of  six  or  more, 
without  extra  charge. 

Pillows  may  be  hired  by  travelers  (first  and  third  class)  by  the 
Night  Mail  and  Express  Traiiis  from  London  (St.  Pancras),  Manchester 
(Central  and  Victoria  Stations),  Liverpool  (Central  and  Exchange 
Stations),  Derby,  and  Bristol.    GSxargre,  6d.  each  pillo'wr. 

Express  Train  Services  between  lilverpool  (Exchange)  and 
Scotland ;  also  between  London  (St.  Pancras)  and  Scotland.  The  di- 
rect route  to  Glasgow  and  Greenock  (for  the  western  Highlands  and 
Islands)  through  the  Land  of  Bums.  Edinburgh,  through  Melrose 
and  the  Wav«rley  district.  Perth,  Aberdeen.  Inverness,  etc.,  over  the 
Forth  Bridge.  The  opening  of  the  Forth  Bridge  has  materially  short- 
ened the  route  between  the  Midland  Railway  System  and  the  North  of 
Scotland. 

The  Carriages  forming  the  Midland  Express  Trains  are  of  the 
newest  and  most  improved  pattern,  provided  with  First  and  Third- 
class  Lavatory  Accommodations.  Baggaere  h^  checked  through  from 
New  York  or  the  Landing  Stage  at  Liverpool  to  any  Hotel,  piivate 
residence  or  Railway  Station  in  London.  Luncheon  baskets  may  be 
obtained  at  several  of  the  Midland  Stations,  and  delivered  at  the  train 
en  route,  on  application. 

HOTBIjS.— The  "Adelphi"  Hotel,  Liverpool,  reorganised,  re- 
furnished, and  redecorated,l8  now  one  of  the  best  of  European  Hotels. 
The  Midland  Grand  Hotel,  attached  to  the  London  (St  Pancras)  Sta- 
tion, is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  appointed  in  Europe. 

Tickets,  Time  Tables,  and  a'l  information  required  by  travelers 
may  be  obtained  from  the  Company's  American  Agents,  Mr.  Hurlky 
and  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  A  Son,  261  and  262  Broadway,  New  York, 
Mr.  John  B.  Curtis,  Liverpool  Agent,  Mr.  Eluott,  London  (St.  Pan- 
cras), or  Mr.  W.  L.  Muglkston  Superintendent  of  the  Line  to  the 
Midland  Railway  Company,  England.    * 

aEO.  H.  TX7B.NEE,  General  Manager,  Derby. 


CASSELL'S 

Complete 

POCKET-GUIDE 


TO 


EUROPE 


RBVI8BD  AND  BNLARQBD 


Planned  and  Edited  by  EDMUND  C.  STEDMAN 
Compiled  by  EDWARD  KING 


CASSELL  &  COMPANY,  Limited 

LONDON,  PARIS  AND  MELBOURNB 

1897. 


Crr^aog.   i^3  0S'*^7' 3 


Copyright,  1883  and  1881 

By  Jambs  R.  Osgood  &  Co., 

AU  rigfUa  r&t>erv4d. 

Copyright,  1887, 1888, 1889,  and  ISOa 
By  O.  M.  DuNHAX, 
AU  rights  reserved. 

OepyHght,  1891, 1893, 1893, 

By  Ca8beli<  Publishing  Compahi; 

AU  rights  -reserved. 

OopuHght,  1894,  1896,  1896,  1897, 

By  The  Casseix  Publishing  OObr 

AU  rights  reserved. 


PRINTED  IN  U.  S.  A. 


THB  MBRSHON  COMPANY  PRESS. 
RAHWAY,  N.  J. 


TABLE  OF  COINS  AND  MONEYS 

DOLLABS. 

Pounds  Steel'q. 

FEANC8.1 

Masks  > 

Flo»ui8.« 

.01 

L. 

8. 

d. 

Fr. 

c. 

Mk. 

Pf. 

fl 

kr. 

i 

....... 

"*5" 
10 
30 
35 

.03 

5 

M 

E 

30 

A 

10 

.06 

.06 

3 
4 

'       Wi 

.10 



E 

'so' 

? 

30 

96 

.13 

6 

50 

.131 

JSO 

E    1 

.81 

no 

.35 

1 

1 

.40 

E    3 

.48 

A   1 

.60 

3 
3 

3 

.63 

6 

.84 

A  3 

1.00 

E    5 

1.05 

3 

50 

1.25 

5 

5 

3.00 

10 

©4 

3.10 

3.50 

10 

10 

4.00 

30 

®I 

4.30 

6.00 

1 

e35 

30 

8.40 

30 

10.00 

50 
100 

30.00 

* 



1  Francs  are  used,  under  different  names,  in  the  following  coun> 
tries :  France,  Belgium,  Switzerland,  Italy,  Greece,  Roumania,  Servia, 
Bulgaria,  and  the  coins  marked  E  in  Spain.  The  two  coins  of  0.35 
and  35  pesetas  (or  francs)  are  used  only  in  Spain. 

*  Marks,  or  B^ichsmarks,  are  used  in  all  the  German  countries 
not  forming  part  of  the  Austro-Hungarian  Empire. 

*  Although  nominally  different,  the  value  of  Dutch  coins  and 
Austrian  paper  or  silver  is  very  nearly  the  same.  Austrian  gold  is  at 
a  premium.  Coins  marked  A  are  used  hoth  in  Holland  and  Austria; 
those  marked  0^  only  in  Austria.  The  Austrian  gold  pieces  of  4  and 
S  florins  are  also  marked  10  francs  and  30  francs,  and  are  accepted  as 
such  in  aU  the  countries  using  francs. 


KOTE  BY  THE  EDITOB, 


THIS  book  has  been  for  many  years  before  the  pub- 
lic, and  is  thoroughly  tested  by  increafilng  use 
among  travellers  through  the  portions  of  Europe  gen- 
erally covered  in  a  single  tour.  It  resulted  from  ob- 
Bcrvaiion  of  the  trials  undergone  by  those  equipped 
with  the  larger  aud  more  cumbrous  handbooks.  I 
devised  the  Pocket  Guide  because  auch  a  work  waa 
sortily  needed,  and  no  one  else  undertook  this  practi- 
cal service.  The  ends  desired  were  :  1.  Fuller  and 
better  arranged  d(4rtils  of  Routes,  Points  of  1  merest, 
FiireSj  Ilotela,  Currency^  etc.,  than  are  ixiven  in 
m  any  hooks  o  f  greatc  r  p  ropor tio  ns.  3.  Lt^g  i  h  I  e  type 
aud  good  maps  S.  A  feat  Pocket  Guide,  so  com- 
pact as  to  be  carried  in  a  man's  coat  or  hip  pocket, 
or  in  a  womaa'a  dresa-pocket  or  muff. 

The  work  h^  been  revised  from  year  to  year,  and 
to  an  average  of  correctness  at  least  equal  to  that  of 
any  other  condensed  guidebook.  [New  mapa  and 
otlicr  improve  men  Is  have  been  added.  Tbe  volume 
however,  has  been  rigidly  kept  within  ita  original 
size.  I  believe  that  the  Pocket  Guide  is  asi  near 
what  It  claims  to  be  as  cdttorial  diligence  can  mak^ 
it,  and  trust  that  it  now,  more  than  ever,  will  add  to 
the  comfort  of  travellera  from  our  own  and  other 
Engliiih-speaking  countries. 


ABBREVIAIIONS. 


K Mile,  or  mUes. 

ft.   ....Feet 

in Inches. 

sq.  •  •  •  .  Square. 

N North. 

H.    ....  South. 

£ East. 

W.  .  . . .  West. 

r. Right  (hand). 

1 Left  (handy. 

rly.   .  • .  Railway. 
8tat . . .  Station, 
ch.    ...  Church, 
hr. . , . ,  Hour, 
min. .  • .  Minutes. 

£> Pounds  sterling. 

■ Shilling,  or  shillings. 

k.  •    •  .  Krone. 


^ Penny,  or  pence. 

fr.  ....  Franc,  or  ftancs. 
c.    •.    .  Cents,  centimes,  or  deift 
tesiini. 

fl Florin  or  florina. 

mk.,mks.  Mark,  marks, 
pf.  ....  Pfennige. 
kr.     ...  Krentzers. 

1 Lira,  or  lire. 

r. Reales. 

Sun.  . .  .  Sunday. 
Mon.    . .  Monday. 
Tues.     .  Tuesday. 
Wed.    ..Wednesday. 
Thurs.    .Thursday. 
Fri.        .  Friday. 
Sat.      . .  Satuixlay. 


The  names  of  the  most  important  towns,  buildings,  and  collections 
are  printed  in  full-faced  type.  Other  notable  places  and  objects, 
of  less  importance,  have  titles  in  italics. 

In  many  cases,  as  of  churches  and  public  buildings,  conspicuous 
events,  etc.,  the  date  of  erection  or  of  occurrence  is  placed  directly 
after,  in  parentheses. 

Statements  which  have  for  many  years  been  regarded  locally  as 
unchallengeable  facts  (e.  g.,  the  preservation  of  the  heads  of  St 
Peter  and  St.  Paul  in  the  Lateran  Basilica,  Rome),  are  repeated  la 
thwe  pages  without  comment. 


CONTENTa 


A.  Chapter  on  Travel vii 

Arrangements  for  the  Journey riii 

Steamships,  -r-  The  Ocean  Journey   ••••••  x 

Money,  etc 3cv 

Railway  Travel xvi 

Hotel  Expenses,  etc xx 

Ireland 1 

Kil!arnev.  —  The  Lakes 6 

Dublin/ 14 

Belfast,  Giant's  Causeway,  etc 23 

North  Wales 27 

England  (Chester) 33 

Liverpool ,  36 

English  Lake  District 42 

Scotland  (The  Land  of  Burns) 66 

The  Scottish  Highlands 68 

Stirling,  Perth,  Aberdeen 80  • 

Edinburgh,  Melrose,  Abbotsford 85 

England  (Newcastle,  Durham,  York) 95 

Manchester,  Lincoln,  Derby 103 

Coventry,  Warwick,  Stratford 112 

London 128 

Excursions  in  Southern  England 151 

Routes  to  the  Continent 159 

Northern  France 161 

Paris 168 

Routes  from  Paris  to  Switzerland 19S 

Belgium S»l 

Brussels  and  En^nrons •  204 

Ghent,  Bruges,  Antwerp,  etc 207 


VI  CONTENTS. 

BOLULHD «     • 219 

Gerxant  and  Austbia S18 

Up  the  Rhine  by  Steamer 222 

Berlin 241 

Dresden  and  Prague 246 

Vienna .  26() 

Southeastern  Europe 255 

Munich  and  the  T>Tol 261 

Switzerland  (Basle,  Zurich) 274 

Lucerne,  Righi,  St.  Gothard 280 

Berne,  Freibui^g,  Lausanne,  Geneva 287 

Chamounix  and  Mont  Blanc 292 

St.  Bernard  and  Simplon  Passes 294 

Italy  (Routes  into  Italj-) 297 

The  North-Italian  Cities 302 

Florence 329 

Rome 340 

Naples,  Pompeii,  Sorrento,  Capri 370 

Sicily 384 

Southern  France  (Nice,  Marseilles) 397 

Aries,  Nfmes,  Avignon,  Lyons    .......  401 

A  Round  Trip  in  Spain 405 

Portugal 434 

A  Tour  IN  THE  North 441 

Norway  and  Sweden 445 

Russia 455 

Alphabetical  Table  of  Health  Resorts    ...  463 

Diplomatic  and  Consular  Agents  of  the  U.  S.     .  471 

Travel-Phrases  in  Four  Languages 476 

Travellers'  Telegraphic  Code 492 

Index 500 

Table  of  Moneys Opposite  Title-Page. 

Abbreviations Page  facing  Table  of  Contents. 


CASSELL'S 
POCKET-GUIDE  TO  EUROPE. 

A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

COURTEOUS  READER,  —  When  you  have  laid 
aside  your  prejudices,  donned  your  ffarments  of 
travel,  ana  set  your  foot  upon  the  gauff-plank  of  the 
steamer  bound  for  Europe,  it  will  not  be  our  fault  if 
you  discover  that  you  have  forgotten  somethine.  If 
you  have  bought  this  our  little  book,  and  read  this 
preliminary  chapter,  you  will  depart  for  foreign  lands 
with  all  your  preparations  properly  made. 

This  Guide  describes,  as  minutely  as  possible  within 
the  limits  of  a  "handy  vohime,"  a  continuous  tour 
through  Northern,  Middle,  Soutlieastem,  and  Southern 
Europe.  The  writer  hopes  and  believes  that  if  you 
follow  exactly  the  routes  which  he  describes  from  the 
first  to  the  last  page  of  the  book,  you  will  have  seen  in- 
telligently, at  a  minimum  of  cost  and  inconvenience,  the 
most  interesting  sections  of  Europe,  and  all  mthin /our 
months.  By  suppressing  the  tnp  down  the  Danul^e 
and  some  parts  of  the  Scottish  and  Sicilian  tours,  and 
the  Scandinavian  and  Spanish  tours,  this  can  be  re- 
duced by  three  weeks.  Many  summer  tourists  seem 
disinclined  to  visit  N.  Germanv  and  Austria.  This,  we 
think,  is  a  decided  error  of  judgment ;  but  it  is  evident 
that  if  these  sections  are  not  visited,  the  time  is  reduced 


vin  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

by  another  ten  days.  Most  travellers  can,  with  a  trifle 
of  care  and  patience,  sit  down  with  this  book  before 
them,  and  by  its  aid  plan  a  journey  which,  including 
the  ocean  voyages  out  and  back,  shall  not  take  up 
more  than  four  full  months,  and  can  be  made  witli 
ease  and  enjoyment. 

Especial  attention  has  been  paid,  in  the  preparation 
of  this  volume,  to  giving  the  local  railway  and  steamboat 
fares,  —  a  feature  in  which  nearly  all  other  EngHsh  and 
American  guide-books  are  sadly  deficient.  We  believe 
that  our  work  will  be  found  very  complete  in  this 
particular.  Several  hundred  letters  were  written  to 
station  masters  in  all  parts  of  Europe  for  the  puiipose 
of  securing  extreme  accuracy.  In  most  cases  we  think 
our  fares  will  be  found  correct.  Railway  fares,  how- 
ever, vary  considerably  in  Italy  during  the  course  of 
a  year,  and  our  fares  may  sometimes  be  found  a  bit 
higher  or  lower  than  those  prevalent  in  that  country ; 
but  the  difference  will  be  slight.  We  have  done  our 
best  to  secure  accuracy  and  fulness  of  detail.  The 
traveller  will  be  duly  grateful,  after  he  has  tried  in 
vain  to  find  what  he  wants  in  the  "A  B  C's"  and 
*'  Bradshaws "  of  Great  Britain,  and  has  puzzled  his 
brains  over  the  complicated  Continental  hand-books. 
We  think  that  the  route  which  we  recommend  and 
describe  maj  be  followed  from  beginnuig  to  end  with 
no  other  guide  than  this  one,  which  can  be  carried  in 
the  breast-pocket.  The  writer  has  been  over  nearly 
every  route  described. 

Arrangements  for  the  Journey. 

Try  to  arrange  your  journey  so  as  to  reach  Europe 
by  the  first  of  May.  W'^ith  a  view  to  this,  secure  your 
steamship  tickets  very  early  in  the  year.     When  you 


ARRANOESIENTS  FOR  THE  JOURNEY.        ix 

have  decided  on  the  date  of  your  depnrinrp  and  llie 
probable  leog^th  of  jour  absence  fronj  home,  step  iiuo 
a  proQihient  banker's  iu  the  city  in  which  you  reside, 
or  the  .seapi)rt  wlionee  you  sail,  and  secure* a  LetJer  of 
Ctvdit  or  Circular  Nvies  for  a  sum  whicli  you  deem 
feufflcieat  to  cover  your  expenses  until  you  are  at  bom© 
agiviu.  AUn w  a  inargi  n  for  eoutingeneies.  The  Letter 
of  Credit  is  the  most  con vi^nieni.  die  fewfcst  and  the  most 
ste  nsi  ble  man  n  e  r  o  f  ca  r  ry  i  ng  1 II  o  ney .  O  n  i  t  are  the  ad  - 
slresses  of  perhaps  two  iuindred  of  the  leading  Imnkiug 
lioij»es  of  Euro  IK?,  aud  you  iiave  only  to  call  on  any  one 
[>f  these  for  sueb  sums  as  you  wish  in  the  currency  of 
ihe  country  where  you  niny  happen  lo  he.  Lettera  of 
credit  are  negotiable,  at  ihe  bearer's  pleasure,  by  any 
person  who  chooses  to  accept  dnif  ts  made  against  Iheni. 
Fh'ms  not  namtid  in  Iht  hMterwIM  often  srfvc  larger 
rxchau^e  tlian  the  rei^ular  local  correspoii dent- 
Bay  at  a  broker *s  a  fevi'  lilnglisli  sovereigua,  for  use  on 
st«ainer^  at  lauding  fit  Liverpool,  or  Queetiatown,  or 
SoutliamrJloii,  or  other  ports.  With  Ihese,  and  your 
Letter  of  Credit,  ytjti  aj-e  well  (nioagli  f(|aipped  as  to 
inonej. 

Tfike  a  Fmi^pod.  Circaatsliuiecs  may  occur  in 
which  it  will  be  positively  neccssiiry  for  you  to  have 
one.  Address  a  letter  to  the  Shitty  Df^fiurimettiy 
I*f£jfspoH  Barm  Hi  Wa^hift^gion,  Uiiking  for  the  printed 
forai  neeessary  'or  appliciition  for  the  docamcut.  Wben 
foa  get  t})is  form,  fill  it  out,  swear  t<i  its  contents 
tefore  a  notary,  and  send  it  back  to  the  Statue  Depart- 
ment, inclosmg  thti  governtneut  tax  of  II.  In  due 
tiuie  yoa  will  get  _ynur  [jassp<:!rt.  One  is  su^eient  for 
man  and  wife^  or  man  and  fauiily  wht^re  there  are  n3 
grown-up  sons  or  tl an gl iters,      tf  a  pflssiKJrt  serves 


X  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

for  more  persons  than  its  holder,  he  sboiild  ask  to 
have  a  note  made  upon  it  that  Mr. is  accompa- 
nied by .    Passports  are  absolutely  necessary  if 

any  one  is  suddenly  called  on  to  prove  his  or  her 
identity.  They  are  useftd  in  securmg  admission  to 
public  buildings,  private  art  galleries,  etc.  Sometimes 
the  regulations  exacting  them  are  revived  for  a  few 
days  between  two  countries,  because  of  a  diplomatic 
tension  or  imbroglio,  and  the  person  who  has  none  will 
find  his  journey  interrupted,  and  will  suffer  loss  of 
money,  tmie,  and  temper. 

Steamships.  —  The  Ocean  Journey. 

A  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  is  to-day  such  a 
common  undertaking  that  most  travellers  make  as 
brief  preparation  for  it  as  if  they  were  going  by 
train  from  New  York  to  Chicago. 

The  choice  of  steamships  is  very  large.  Try  to 
secure  your  berths  some  weeks  in  advance  of  sail- 
ing ;  a  deposit  of  $25  is  in  most  cases  sufficient, 
and  this  you  are  supposed  to  forfeit  if  you  fail  to 
take  the  ship,  although  you  may  generally  post- 
pone youp  departure  by  giving  prompt  notice  of 
your  desire  to  do  so.  Most  of  the  lines  give  special 
rates  for  return  tickets,  the  lowest  fares  usually  ex- 
cepted. 

Among  the  lines  specially  to  be  recommended  are 
the  White  8ta/r  (two  classes  of  steamers  sail  from  New 
York  to  Liverpool,  calling  at  Queenstown,  on  every 
Wed.;  fares,  respectively.  $150,  $125,  $100,  $90.  and 
$100,  $80,  $00);  the  Chinaixl  (steamers  sail  from 
New  York  for  Liverpool,  via  Queenstown,  Satur- 
day, from  Boston,  Saturday;  fares,  $175.  $150,  $125, 
$100~Iowest  New  York  summer  rate,  $100,  lowest 


THE  OCEAN  JOURNEY.  XI 

winter  rate,  $75;  lowest  Boston  rates,  $76,  $60);  the 
American  (only  line  sailing  under  the  American 
flag),  sail  every  Wednesday  for  Southampton,  Lon- 
don, or  Havre ;  fares,  $100  to  $650  in  summer,  $75 
to  $600  in  winter;  also  from  Philadelphia  every  Sat- 
urday for  Queenstown  and  Liverpool ;  fares,  $35 
and  upward. 

Other  popular  lines  are  the  Anc7i07\  with  a  fleet 
of  about  35  vessels  (steamers  sail  from  New  York 
every  Sat.  to  Glasgow);  fares,  $65,  $60,  $50  ;  by 
"  City  of  Rome,*'  $100,  $80,  $60;  the  JVarth  Oerman 
Lloyd  (steamers  sail  from  Hoboken  Sat.  and  Tues. 
for  Bremen,  calling  at  Southampton);  fares,  $175, 
scaling  down  to  $75  ;  express  service,  second  or 
third  Sat.  direct  to  Gibraltar  and  Genoa ;  fares, 
$112.60,  $100,  $90  ;  the  Uamtmrg  American  Line 
(express  service  to  Plymouth,  Cherbourg,  and  Ham- 
burg by  twin  screw  steamers  every  Thurs.);  season, 
$100  and  upward  (winter  $75  and  upward).  Regular 
service  direct  to  Hamburg  every  Sat.,  $75  ana  up- 
ward (winter  $60);  Mediterranean  winter  service,  ex- 
press, $100  and  upward,  first  class,  twin  screw 
steamers.  Baltic  Line  direct  to  Norway,  Sweden, 
Denmark,  and  Stettin,  $75  (winter  $60,  and  steerage). 
Hamburg-Baltimore  Line  from  Baltimore  direct  to 
Hamburg,  $75  and  upward  (winter  $60);  TrarisaU 
lantique  Line  (steamers  sail  Sat.  from  New  York  for 
Havre  direct);  $130,  $100,  $80,  wines  included  ;  the 
Holland-America  Line  (steamers  sail  from  New  York 
to  Rotterdam  or  Amsterdam  Sats.  and  Thurs. ,  the 
former  calling  at  Boulogne);  fares,  $80  to  $57.50; 
the  Bed  Star  (steamers  sail  from  New  York  to 
Antwerp  Wed.);  fares,  $110  to  $60;  the  AUan-State 
(steamers  sail  to  Glasgow,  Londonderry,  and  Liver- 
pool from  New  York  Sat.);  fares,  $40  and  upward; 
the  Thingvalla  Line  direct  to  Denmark,  Norway, 
and  Sweden  every  other  Sat. ;  fares,  summer,  $60 
and  $50;  winter,  $50  and  $40;  steerage,  $30. 


xH  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVKL. 

The  choice,  as  you  see,  is  varied  enough  to  suit 
any  purse,  and  the  accommodation  on  even  the  most 
inexpensive  of  the  ships  is  good.  For  information 
as  to  sailings  of  these  steamships  from  European 
ports  for  home,  consult  the  list  of  sailings  issued 
by  the  various  Ss.  Co.'s  and  the  daily  journals. 

The  question  of  Baggage  for  a  European  tour  is 
very  important.  Our  advice  is  to  take  with  you  in 
any  case  one  large,  stoutly  built  American  trunk, 
plainly  marked  with  your  name,  place  of  abode,  etc. 
Have  it  well  hooped  about,  and  see  that  it  possesses 
a  capital  lock.  Into  this  put  everything  that  you 
are  certain  not  to  requireontheocean voyage.  Then 
pack  such  articles  as  you  will  need  either  in  a  roomy 
valise  or  in  one  of  the  small,  flat  cabin  trunks,  built 
so  that  they  will  go  under  a  berth,  which  may  be  had 
at  any  trunk-maker's.  Ladies  will  find  these  '  *  cab- 
in trunks  "  almost  indispensable.  Take  with  you 
plenty  of  warm  clothing,  and  make  it  a  rule  in 
travelling  on  the  Continent  always  to  have  over- 
coats, cloaks,  etc.,  at  hand.  You  will  find  them 
as  necessary  in  Switzerland  and  Italy  as  in  Scot- 
land and  North  Germany.  When  you  reach 
Liverpool,  if  you  intend  to  return  by  that  port, 
you  c^n  leave  your  cabin- trunk  stored  at  a  hotel 
or  steamship  office,  if  you  think  you  will  not  re- 
quire it.  Then  have  your  large  trunk  sent  from 
point  to  point  where  you  may  need  it,  but  travel 
on  all  short  excursions,  trips  of  two  or  three  days, 
etc.,  unencumbered  by  anything  that  you  cannot 
carry  in  your  hands.  Even  if  a  valise  is  rather  vol- 
uminous, you  can  take  it  into  railway  carriages 
with  you  all  over  the  Continent.  It  is  not  wise  to 
restrict  one's  self  in  amount  of  baggage  ;  while  the 
rates  for  overweight  are  high  in  some  countries  they 
ire  low  in  others.     In  Great  Britain  you  can  carry 


THE  OCEAN  JOURNEY.  xiii 

almost  anything  except  a  house  with  you  and  no  ques* 
tions  are  asked.  A  good  portion  of  the  equipment  of 
a  masculine  traveller  may  be  purchased  after  his  arrival 
in  Europe.  He  would  better  bring  his  American  over- 
coats, but  hats,  shoes,  rugs,  linen,  etc.,  can  be  had 
to  advantage  in  Great  Britain  or  France.  Besides,  by 
wearing  European  hats  and  shoes  you  will  save  money. 
It  is  a  mistake  to  say  that  a  man  is  known  by  the  com- 
pany he  keeps ;  he  is  known  by  his  hat  and  shoes. 
They  are  the  distinguishing  marks  of  his  make-up. 
Travelling  suits  for  gentlemen  should  be  modest  m 
color ;  black  clothes  are  handy  when  one  arrives  at  a 
fashionable  watering-place  or  a  large  town,  and  even- 
ing  dress  is  highly  necessary  in  London  in  the  season,^ 
and  in  long  stops  in  other  cities  it  is  of  course  fre- 
quently required.  We  shall  not  venture  to  offer  the 
ladies  advice  about  what  to  wear,  further  than  to  repeat 
our  injunction  concerning  plenty  of  wraps,  and  to  hint 
that  thin  shoes  should  not  be  worn  in  travel.  Gentle- 
men will  find  gloves  worn  almost  everywhere  on  the 
Continent  by  all  except  the  working-classes,  and  often 
by  some  of  them.  Ulsters  and  linen  dusters  should 
be  avoided ;  the  ulster,  outside  the  British  Islands  or 
at  sea,  looks  odd  and  is  useless.  A  waterproof  coat 
is  extremely  useful.  ,  An  umbrella,  stout  enough  to. 
serve  the  purpose  of  a  cane,  should  be  taken.  Woollen 
socks  and  thick-soled  shoes  are  the  things  for  travel. 
Travelling  suits  for  gentlemen  cost  in  Great  Britain  or 
France  about  one  third  as  much  as  in  America.  They 
are  not  made  so  well,  nor  of  such  good  material  as  our 
own,  but  they  are  very  serviceable. 

On  the  Sieamahip  Voyage  keep  in  the  open  air  as 
much  as  possible.  If  you  suffer  continuously  from  sea- 
sickness, struggle  up  on  deck  daily,  and  in  one  of  the 
adjustable  steamer  chairs,  to  be  provided  by  yourself. 


Xiv  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

remain  in  a  recumbent  posture,  well  wrapped  up,  but 
do  not  pass  a  moment  of  daylight  down  stairs,  except 
when  at  meals  or  in  very  rough  weather.  The  deck 
steward  will  even  bring  you  your  meals,  if  necessary. 
If  the  ship  pitches  violently,  lie  with  your  head  toward 
the  bows.  If  you  are  well,  and  wish  to  remain  so, 
avoid  heavy  food,  heating  liquors,  intense  application 
.  to  books  or  cards.  Just  live,  eat,  and  sleep,  and  when 
you  reach  land  you  will  be  amazed  to  observe  how  you 
are  rested.  Avoid  late  suppers.  Get  up  early,  and 
get  on  deck  at  once.  When  you  are  approaching  land 
the  question  of  stewards*  fees  will  come  up.  We  should 
say  give  the  steward  who  waits  on  you  at  table  10s. ; 
your  berth-room  steward  somewhat  less,  according  to  the 
trouble  you  have  made  him ;  and  the  "  boots  "  2s.  6d. 
But  if  you  cannot  afford  so  much,  give  less :  the  ser- 
vants expect  something,  but  they  never  grumble  at  the 
amount. 

Landing  at  Queenstown  is  very  simple.  You  go  off 
in  a  tug,  which  transports  you  up  the  bay  from  Roches 
Point  (see  Ireland).     Customs  formalities  same  as  on 

Landing  at  Liverpool.  —  We  strongly  advise  tourists 
to  leave  the  steamers  at  Queenstown,  and  go  through 
Ireland  first,  but  we  feel  convinced  that  large  numbers 
of  them  will  proceed  to  Liverpool.  The  landing  ar- 
rangements at  this  great  port  are  not  so  perfect  as 
they  might  be,  and  have  recently  suffered  some  small 
alterations.  Passengers  formerly  left  the  steamers 
in  tugs,  and  came  up  to  the  Prince's  Landing  Stage* 
where  there  is  a  kind  of  custom-house,  and  where  they 
were  usual! v  kept  waiting  about  an  hour.  Now  ships 
fisually  go  into  dock  before  discharging  passengers. 


MONEY.  XV 

The  custom-honse  officers  search  for  cigars  and 
spirits  only ;  if  you  have  neither,  you  will  soon 
have  your  "  luggage  "  on  a  cab  or  dray,  and  be  on 
your  way  to  the  North  Western  or  Midland  Bailway 
stations,  or  to  your  hotel. 

Money.— A  Word  of  Explanation. 

In  Great  Britain  the  money  is  pounds,  shillings, 
and  pence  (£  s.  d.).  In  France,  Belgium,  Switzer- 
land, Italy,  and  Spain  there  is  a  decimal  currency. 
In  the  first  three  countries  the  reckoning  is  in 
francs  and  centimes ;  in  Italy  it  is  in  lire  and 
centesimi ;  in  Spain,  in  pesetas  and  reales.  But 
gold  and  silver  coins  of  any  of  the  five  above- 
named  countries  circulate  freely  in  any  one  of 
them.  The  French  twenty-franc  piece,  called 
Napoleon^  or  Louis,  is  current  money  anywhere 
in  the  Continent.  In  Holland  the  money  is 
reckoned  in  guilders  and  cents.  There  are  100 
cents  in  a  guilder,  which  is  40  4ents  of  our  money. 
In  Germany  the  reckoning  is  in  marks  and  pfen- 
nige.  The  mark  is  about  24  cents  gold,  and  there 
are  100  pfennige  m  it.  When  you  give  one  pfennig 
to  a  beggar,  he  never  troubles  you  again.  In 
Austria  you  must  reckon  in  ./toriw*  and  kreutzers. 
The  florin  is  46  cents  of  our  money,  and  is  divided 
into  100  kreutzers.  Austrian  paper  money,  with 
which  the  country  is  flooded,  and  which  is  legal 
tender  when  coin  is  not  contracted  for,  is  20  or  25 
per  cent,  below  par.  You  will  observe  that  in 
giving  the  local  railway  fares  in  these  different 
countries,  we  have  used  abbreviations  :  Pounds^ 
shillings,  pence,  £s.  d.  ;  francs  and  centimes,  fr.  c; 
lire  and  centesimi,  1.  c.  ;  reales,  rs.  ;  etc.  In  Portu- 
gal the  money  is  counted  in  reis,  of  which  it  takes 


xvi  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

ten  to  make  one  cent.  In  Rassia  roubles  and 
kopecks  are  the  money.  The  gold  coins  most  in 
use  on  the  lines  of  travel  which  you  are  likely  to 
take  are  sovereigns  and  half -sovereigns  (English) ; 
— the  guinea  (21s.)  no  longer  exists,  although  it  is 
still  used  in  reckoning; — twenty,  ten  and  five 
franc  pieces  ;  twenty-mark  and  ten-mark  pieces ; 
Hungarian  twenty-franc  pieces  ;  Spanish  IsabelSy 
worth  a  trifle  more  than  sovereigns.  In  Sweden, 
Norway,  and  Denmark  the  kro7ie  ($0.26.8)  is  the 
basis  or  reckoning.  Be  careful  not  to  bring  Italian 
or  Austrian  paper  to  Paris  or  London.  You  will 
lose  very  heavily  on  it.  English,  French,  and  Gter- 
'.nan  bank  notes  are  as  good  as  gold.  The  French 
Lave  notes  of  fifty,  one  hundred,  five  hundred,  and 
one  thousand  francs,  and  these  are  extremely  con- 
venient to  carry  on  the  Continent.  (See  Comparct^ 
five  Table  of  Moneys  in  front  of  title-page.) 
.fiailway  Travel, — You  will  find  first,  second, 
and  third  class  everywhere  (save  upon  the  English 
Midland  Railway  and  a  section  of  the  Great 
Northern,  which  have  no  second  class)  ;  and  we 
have  given  the  fares  for  each  class  in  all  cases  when 
practicable.  Express  trains  on  the  Continent  have 
no  third  class  ;  but  in  Great  Britain  nearly  all 
trains  have  it.  First-class  is  best  for  long  jour- 
neys ;  second  good  enough  for  short  ones  ;  and 
third  worth  taking  now  and  then,  particularly  in 
England  and  Germany,  for  the  purpose  of  study- 
ing the  common  people.  Second-class  in  Germany 
and  Austria  is  almost  as  comfortable  as  first-class 
in  England  and  France.  On  a  long  journey  from 
France  into  Germany,  you  may  frequently  take 
**a  mixed"  ticket  with  advantage,  i.  e.,  first 
in  France  and  second  in  Germany.     A  ^ntle- 


A  WORD  OF  EXPLANATION.  xvii 

/nan  travelling  alone  and  not  afraid  of  a  little  fatigue 
may  take  third-class  through  from  London  to  Glasgow 
or  Edinburgh,  or  from  London  to  Liverpool,  saving 
vast  half  the  sum  be  would  expend  in  first-class.  In 
England  and  Great  Britain,  generally,  people  speak 
of  "taking"  a  ticket  and  "booking"  a  place.  The 
"booking-office"  is  where  the  tickets  are  sold.  The 
conductor  is  called  the  "guard."  This  phraseology 
appears  to  have  been  left  over  from  the  old  coaching 
days.  Be  sure  and  attend  to  your  "luggage"  care- 
fully. Get  a  label  pasted  on  any  piece  tfiit  you  pro- 
pose to  leave  in  the  "luggage  van,"  and  when  you 
reach  your  destination,  be  on  hand  to  claim  your 
things.  There  is  no  checking  system.  Small  bags, 
wraps,  etc.  cau  always  be  left  in  a  "  cloak  room  "  at 
any  railway  station  for  hours  or  days.  Fees  trivial. 
Employes  are  civil  and  obliging,  but  all  expect  small 
compensation.  Do  not  make  the  mistake,  either  in  Great 
Britain  or  on  the  Continent,  of  giving  large  gratuities. 
In  the  British  Islands  smoking-carriages  are  provided 
on  every  train;  in  France  and  some  other  Latin 
countries  smoking  is  permissible,  hy  general  consentj 
in  any  carriages  except  those  reserved  for  ladies  only; 
in  Italy,  only  in  smoking  compartments ;  in  the  Ger- 
manic lands  smoking  is  wellnigh  universal,  although 
every  train  has  its  damen-coupe,  and  its  compartments 
Filr  nichtraucher.  The  coupSs,  or  end  compartments 
with  windows  in  front,  —  another  survival  of  diligence 
and  coach  customs,  —  may  be  hired  at  reasonable 
charges  above  the  first-class  fares,  and  should  generally 
be  engaged  beforehand  at  the  station.  In  France  ancl 
Middle  Europe  generally  the  tariff  is  about  16  francs  per 
seat  per  thousand  kilometres.  A  party  of  four,  gomg 
through  from  Paris  to  Cologne,  or  coming  from  Nice 
to  Paris,  will  find  a  coupe  worth  taking.     Although 


XViJi  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

we  have  tried  to  make  our  little  book  so  complete  that 
you  will  hardly  need  to  buy  the  local  time-tables,  you 
may  now  and  then  require  them.     "  Bradshaw/'  price 
6d.,  is  the  most  compact  for  Great  Britain ;  the  Chaix 
"  Guide  des  Chemins  de  Fer  de  TEurope"  will  do  for 
the  Continent.     It  contains  all  that  may  be  found  in 
the  local  guides  pubhshed  in  Germany,  Switzerland,  etc., 
costs  only  forty  cents,  and  is  corrected  several  times 
yearly.     Most  guides  are  furnished  with  maps,  from 
which  you  can  gain  very  clear  ideas  of  the  location  of 
the  lines  along  which  you  travel.  On  excursions,  remem- 
ber that  return  tickets  can  generally  be  had  at  a  dis- 
count from  the  regular  fares.   Return  tickets  are  usually 
available  only  on  the  day  on  which  they  are  sold,  and 
by  the  first  train  of  the  next.    Saturday  tickets,  however, 
generally  extend  until  the  first  Monday  train.     On  the 
Continent  the  terms  for  returns  are  much  more  liberal 
than  in  Great  Britain.    "  Circular  tickets"  are  issued  in 
nearly  all  countries,  and  ample  information  concerning 
them  is  given  at  raHway  stations,  hotels,  banks,  and  in 
the  newspapers.    Persons  who  follow  our  itinerary  will 
not  require  these  circular  tickets ;  but  to  those  who 
wish  to  go  from  Paris  to  Switzerland,  and,  after  visiting 
that  country  to  return  directly  to  France,  we  would 
recommend   them.     There  is   a   great   variety    of 
excursion  tickets   and   hotel-coupon   arrangements, 
by  which   inexperienced   travellers, .  or   those  who 
do   not   care   to   explore   their   own    routes,    mav 
be  aided  in  travelling,  passing  all  over  the  Conti- 
nent and  the  Levant  under  efficient  chaperonage. 
Prominent  among  these  is  the  agency  of  Messrs.  Henry 
Gaze  &  Sons,  Thos.  Cook  &  Sons,  and  the  London  and 
North  Western  Railway  of  England,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Mr.  C.  A.  Barattoni.    There  are  keeping-oars 


/ 


■;■'•>>:/ 


RAILWAYS.  XIX 

on  many  English  and  Continental'  lines  ;  in 
Great  Britain  are  like  our  own ;  on  the  Conti- 
nent the  *' Mann  Boudoir  Car"  is  in  use.  This 
latter  is  very  comfortable,  but  the  rates  ai*e  extrava- 
gantly hiffh.  The  Boudoir  Cars  are  called  wagons- 
litSy  "bed-wagons,"  in  most  Continental  countries; 
their  of&ce  in  Paris  is  No.  2  Rue  Scribe.  Between 
Paris  and  Vienna,  Paris  and  Geneva,  Paris  and  Turin 
and  Florence,  and  often  Rome  also,  Paris  and  Berlin 
and  Russia,  etc.,  there  is  a  regular  sleeping-car  service. 
The  Russian  cars  are  larger  and  more  elegant  than 
the  other  Continental  ones;  and  in  Russia  and  Switzer^ 
land  a  modified  American  railway-carriage,  in  which, 
however,  class  distinctions  are  kept  up,  is  in  use.  The 
amount  of  baggage  carried  free  in  France,  Spain,  and 
Sweden  is  66  pounds ;  in  North  Germany,  Austro- 
Hungary,  and  ftussia,  55  pounds ;  in  Great  Britain, 
any  reasonable  amount ;  in  South  Germany,  Belgium, 
Holland,  Italy,  and  Switzerland,  there  is  no  free  bag- 
gage, but  the  rates  are  not  extravagant.  In  some 
parts  of  Italy  and  Switzerland  there  have  been  great 
complaints,  that  baggage  has  been  plundered  in  transit 
by  baggage-masters  and  train-men ;  hence  the  necessity 
for  first-rate  locks  already  mentioned.  Parcels,  and 
baggage  when  forwarded  to  be  called  for  later,  should 
be  sealed.  Indeed,  the  railway  companies  generally 
insist  on  this,  and  refuse  articles  which  appear  to  be 
insecurely  fastened.  In  all  Continental  countries,  when 
your  baggage  is  weighed,  a  receipt  is  given  you,  and 
the  number  on  it  corresponds  to  that  pasted  on  the 
trunk  or  valise.  Even  if  there  is  no  excess  of  weight, 
you  must  have  a  receipt.  In  some  cases,  in  gouig 
from  an  important  city  in  one  country  to  an  impor- 
tant city  in  another,  your  baggage  can  he  "  registered 
through,"  and  examined  when  it  reaches  its  destination ; 


XX  A  CHAPTER   ON  TRAVEL. 

"*. 
in  otlicrs,  although  registered  through,  it  must  be  ex- 
amined at  the  frontier.  The  examination  is  a  pure 
formality  almost  everywhere.  In  vexatious  cases  noth- 
ing  is  gained  by  giumbling  and  scolding.  Small  fees 
to  railway  servants,  guards,  etc.,  always  meet  witli 
prompt  return  in  civility  and  privilege.  At  all  German 
and  Swiss  railway  depots,  ^pplj  to  the  portier  for 
information.  In  Italy  the  railway  facchini  are  paid 
according  to  tariff, — I  soldi  (cents)  lor  a  trunk,  2  for  a 
bag  or  valise,  and  in  proportion  for  a  bundle  of  wraps, 
etc.  In  Rome,  however,  this  tariff  is  raised  to  5  and 
3  soldi.  The  refreshment  rooms  in  England,  Scotland, 
Italy,  Spain,  and  North  Germany  are  not  very  ^ood ;  in 
other  countries  they  are  excellent.  On  long  journeys 
carry  your  own  basket,  especially  in  Italy  and  Spain, 
where  fruit,  bread,  and  wine  may  be  had  in  the  open-air 
markets  for  a  song,  but  in  hotels  are  purposely  held  very 
dear.  In  Italy  and  Russia  a  window  on  the  wind- 
ward side  of  a  railway  carriage  cannot  be  kept 
open  if  any  person  in  the  compartment  objects. 

Hotel  Expenses 

must  naturally  vary  much  according  to  taste  and  in- 
come of  the  traveller.  Our  lists  of  hotels  are  carefully 
selected,  and  we  believe  that  the  houses  recommended 
will  be  found  satisfactory.  Great  Britain  is  an  ex- 
pensive country  by  comjMirison  with  Switzerland  or 
Italy;  in  Germany  cities  are  expensive,  small  towns 
and  country  cheap.  The  American  will  notice  with 
some  surpnse  that  life  in  Europe  is,  as  a  whole,  no 
longer  much  if  any  cheaper  than  in  America.  To  live 
even  carefully  at  a  first  clas&-hotel  in  any  part  of  Great 
Britain  costs  about  four  dollars  or  four  dollars  and  a 
alf  daily,   divided  somewhat  as  follows:   breakfast. 


HOTEL  EXPENSES.  xxi 

from  two  and  six  (two  shillings  and  sixpence)  to  three 
and  six;  lunch,  about  same  price;  dinner,  without 
wine,  fiire  shillings ;  room,  from  four  and  six  to  eight 
and  six,  and  invariably  one  and  six  for  attendance. 
Wines  are  as  dear,  with  few  exceptions,  as  in  the 
United  States.  There  arc,  however,  good  hotels, 
where  you  may  live  at  about  ten  shillings  daily  ; 
and  private  boarding-houses  in  the  large  cities 
where  it  will  cost  from  seven  to  ten  shillings 
daily,— rarely  under  ten.  A  person  very  econo- 
mically inclined  may  possibly  live  for  six  shil- 
lings daily,  but  not  in  rapid  travel.  On  the 
Continent  yon  may  calculate  that  if  you  reach  a  hotel 
at  nightfall,  dine  or  sup  and  sleep,  and  take  early  break* 
fast  there,  your  bill  will  be  12  or  13  francs.  For  a 
stay  of  some  days  you  may  manage  not  to  spend  more 
than  from  ten  to  fourteen  francs  daily.  In  large  capi- 
tals,, simply  take  room  at  your  hotel,  and  your  first 
meal  there.  The  others  can  be  had  to  suit  your  purse 
and  convenience  at  restaurants.  In  Germany,  Switzer- 
land, and  some  parts  of  Italy,  the  taMes  d'hote  are 
cheaper  than  the  restaurants.  If  you  want  a  cheap 
room  in  a  hotel,  say  so ;  there  is  no  surprise  at  economy 
in  Europe.  Candles  are  charged  extra,  but  you  are 
only  bound  to  pay  for  those  you  actually  use.  Gas  is 
rarely  found  in  oedrooms.  In  England  soap  is  fur- 
nished ;  on  the  Continent,  not.  Washing  can  usually 
be  done  within  24  hours  in  all  countries.  When  you 
buy  a  parcel  and  order  it  sent  to  your  room,  give  the 
number  of  the  chamber,  and  not  your  name.  Fee  the 
porfier  at  Continental  hotels ;  he  will  be  useful.  Give 
one  of  your  dining-room  waiters  something,  but  give 
to  only  one.  Never  mind  the  head  waiter's  sardonic 
frown.  In  France  you  will  save  money  by  taking  your 
meals  at  the  houses  when  the  natives  take  theirs ;  out 
of  hours  you  pay  special  prices     By  asking  for  **  ice 


xxu  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

water,"  you  can  now  get  it  almost  everywhere. 
In  Middle  Europe  drink  ordinary  wines,  and 
dilute  them  with  water,  except  at  evening.  The 
vin  ordinaire  is  pure  and  wholesome  in  all  coun- 
tries. Examine  your  hills,  and  don't  allow  over- 
charges. Omnihus  from  station  is  generally 
charged  in  bill.  Baggage  porter  expects  small 
fee  when  you  go  away.  Insist  on  having  your 
bill  when  you  ask  for  it.  You  will  find  English 
spoken  in  almost  all  hotels.  You  can  always 
post  letters  and  generally  send  telegrams  from 
your  hotel,  unless  in  some  small  country  town. 
Telegraphy  is  cheap  in  nearly  all  European  coun- 
tries. Before  leaving  America  tell  your  friends 
to  write  to  you,  care  of  your  bankers  ill  London 
or  Paris ;  if  you  keep  your  bankers  advised  of 
your  address  you  will  never  miss  a  mail.  Reg. 
ister  your  name  at  the  London  and  Paris  offices 
of  yonr  banker's;  and  you  may  thus  find  friends 
or  acquaintances  who  happen  to  be  travelling  abroad. 
In  Paris  you  will  find  Messrs.  Drexel,  Harjes  &  Co., 
John  Munroe  &  Co.,  Henry  Gaze  &  Sons,  Thos.  Cook 
&  Sons,  and  other  bankers,  well  provided  with  post- 
offices,  reading-rooms,  and  information  about 
travel.  If  you  need  a  courier  (but  you  really  d.o 
not),  ask  your  banker  or  landlord  for  the  address 
of  one.     Couriers  are  expensive  luxuries. 

We  think  all  necessary  information  about  cabs  will 
be  found  in  the  text  of  the  volume.  Diligences  are  to 
be  avoided  as  much  as  possible.  In  some  places  they 


CAUTIONS.  XXIU 

are,  however,  indispensable.  On  steamboats'  on  lakes 
and  streatais  you  may  usually  take  free  about  twice 
as  much  baggage  as  by  rail.  Always  make  your  bar- 
gains beforehand  for  pi'ivate  carriages, 

A  few  Cautions  as  to  small  matters  may  not  be 
out  of  place.  Should  you  go  shopping  on  the  Con- 
tinent, especially  in  France,  Belgium,  Switzerland, 
or  Italy,  try  to  make  up  your  mind  from  your  in- 
spection of  an  article  in  the  windows  whether 
you  want  it  or  not.  The  window  is  really  the 
shop  ;  everything  is  plainly  marked,  and  if  you 
go  in  and  come  out  again  without  buying,  the 
shopkeeper  considers  that  you  have  made  him 
waste  his  time,  and  does  not  conceal  his  disap- 
poiutmeut  from  you.  Should  you  take  furnished 
apartments,  be  sure  and  inspect  the  inventory  made  of 
them  before  you  move  in.  Do  not  violate  any  regu- 
lations, municipal  or  general,  liowever  trivial  and  use- 
less they  may  seem,  for  the  laws  are  rigidly  enforced. 
Secure  seats  at  the  theatres  at  least  24  hours  before 
you  intend  to  go,  otherwise  you  will  be  badly  pkced. 
Avoid  draughts  in  France  ana  England,  and  in  France 
do  not  leave  your  windows  open  at  night.  After 
climbing  a  Swiss  mountain  pass,  be  careful  not  to  take 
cold ;  imprudence  in  the  mountains  often  ruins  a  whole 
summer.  Wraps  must  be  taken  into  galleries,  churches, 
and  palaces,  especially  in  Italy,  even  in  summer.  In 
passing  from  sunshine  to  shade,  gather  your  garments 
about  you,  and  avoid  chills.  Treat  sei-vants  in  France 
and  other  Latin  countries  and  in  Switzerland  as  you 
would  in  America,  but  in  Great  Britain  and  Germany 
and  Austria  keep  them  at  a  distance;  they  do  not 
understand  democracy,  and  would  impose  upon  you.  If 
you  go  to  a  poste  restante  (general  delivery  post-office), 
present  your  name  plainly  written  or  printed  on  a  card. 
In  making  pedestrian  tours  in  out-of-the  way  districts. 


XXIV  A  CHAPTER  ON  TRAVEL. 

do  not  lose  your  temper  if  the  local  officials  are  a  little 
curious  about  your  movements.  lu  case  of  sudden 
illness  in  Prance,  Italy,  or  Switzerland,  call  an  Amer- 
ican or  English  physician.  The  French  and  Italian 
and  Swiss  doctors  employ  remedies  which  are  sometimes 
too  gentle  for  Anglo-Saxon  constitutions,  and  often  fail 
to  prescribe  sufficient  nutriment.  But  a  local  physician 
who  has  had  practice  among  foreigners  is  better  than 
a  foreigner. 

Language  is  not  so  great  a  barrier  to  communication 
as  is  imagmed.  If  you  get  into  a  corner  of  Europe 
where  no  tongue  that  you  can  speak  is  understood, 
use  English  Just  as  if  the  people  knew  what  it  meant, 
and  make  signs.  You  will  ^et  on  famously.  The 
little  list  of  phrases  at  the  end  of  this  volume  may  be 
found  an  aid  to  tliose  who  have  some  familiarity  with 
those  languages  most  spoken  in  Europe.  On  general 
principles,  however,  it  is  better  to  use  what  little  you 
know  of  a  foreign  language  than  to  seek  interpreters. 
You  will  be  presumed  to  know  more  than  you  express, 
and  you  will  make  better  bargains. 

Gro  to  the  United  States  Consul  for  information  when 
you  are  really  in  doubt  and  need  advice.  Not  even 
then,  if  he  is  a  political  appointee  and  not  a  practical 
man.  In  the  latter  case  only  is  he  likely  to  have  that 
acquaintance  with  the  language,  laws,  and  customs  of 
the  place,  whereby  he  can  aid  you ;  while,  if  he  has  an 
important  office  and  attends  to  it,  he  has  little  time  for 
strangers  who  come  witliout  a  business  reason  for 
their  call. 


CASSELL'S 
POCKET-GUIDE    TO    EUROPE. 

IRELAND, 

THE  majr^Titj  of  America ii  visitors  to  Europe  ^a 
first  to  Great  Britain,  proceeding  directly  bj  ateanj- 
ship  to  Liverpool,  attd  leaving  a  tour  tlirougli  the  pic- 
ttitesque  and  iutere-sting  island  of  Ireland  among  the 
poasibiliiies  of  the  liist  days  of  their  pil^Biiige.  Our 
own  im]>re93ioii  is  ttuit  tliose  who  go  abroad  as  early  aa 
May  or  June  would  do  better  to  laud  at  Queenstown, 
and  make  a  brief  trip  through  tlie  Emerald  Isle, 
quitting  it  either  nei  Belfast  foe  Glasgow  (wbere  they 
can  atiirt  ou  theii'  journey  in  the  Scotch  mts),  or 
rwr  Dublin  and  Kingstown,  crossing  the  Iriah  Chaiuicl 
to  Holy  head  in  4  lira.,  and  going  from  Holyhead 
to  Chester.  Liverpool,  and  thence  northward  to  the 
English  Lake  District^  or  to  London,  as  best  suits 
their  humor.  Thousands  of  persons  return  to  the 
United  States  without  having  set  foot  in  Irelfind. 
They  intended  to  go  there  ;  but  after  their  long  sen  son 
of  travel  on  the  Contiuent  they  get  back  to  Lnndou 
somewliat  wearied,  as  well  as  eeonomicallj  ineiiued, 
and  the  result  is  that  they  bfiaten  to  Liverpool,  and 
take  ship  for  home,  seeing  naught  of  Irelaua  but  the 
bold  lines  of  its  coast  and  the  round  towers  which  cap 
its  highest  €Ms, 

I 


2  QUEENSTOWN. 

Ireland  is  worth  a  visit  of  3-5  days,  and  our  ob- 
ject is  to  ^how  the  tourist  how  he  may  spend  those 
days  to  advantage  iu  that  country.  The  steamships  of 
most  of  the  principal  lines  call  at  Queenstown,  coming 
from  and  gomg  to  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Boston, 
and  other  ports.  Tugboats  speedily  convey  passengers 
with  their  baggage  from  Roches  Point,  where  the 
steamers  stop,  up  to  the  town  proper ;  and  the  noble 
port  with  its  green  water,  the  verdant  hills  crowned 
with  handsoHiC  buildings  and  protected  by  fortifica- 
tions, and  the  pretty  groves  and  forests,  out  of  wliich 
white  villas  peep,  form  a  picture  doubly  pleasing  to 
the  eye  of  the  visitor,  after  he  has  for  many  days  seen 
nothing  but  sea,  sky,  and  the  ship  that  brought  him 
over. 

Queenstowu  {Queen's  Hotel)  is  on  Great  Island, 
which  lies  in  the  magnificent  bay  or  arm  of  the  sea 
into  which  the  river  Lee  pours  its  waters.  The  town 
was  formerly  called  the  "  Cove  of  Cork,"  and  received 
its  present  name  after  Queen  Victoria  paid  it  a  visit. 
It  is  built  on  the  face  of  a  hill  sloping  down  to  the 
shore ;  has  a  Catholic  cathedral  and  a  une  Protestant 
church,  and  a  trifle  more  than  10,000  inhab.  Invalids 
are  attracted  to  Queenstown  by  tlie  extreme  mildness 
of  its  climate.  Rev.  Charles  Wolfe,  who  wrote  the 
famous  lines  on  tiie  burial  of  Sir  John  Moore,  died  of. 
consumption  here  iu  1823,  and  is  buried  on  the  island. 
The  immense  harbor  of  Cork,  large  enough  to  afford 
shelter  to  the  combined  navies  of  Europe  at  once,  in 
its  basin  10  square  M.  in  area,  is  well  derended  by  forts 
on  either  side  the  channel  of  entrance.  On  Spike  Island 
is  Fort  Westmoreland  commanding  entrance  to  harbor. 
Hawlbowline  Island  contains  ordnance  stqres  and  an 
armory.  Rocky  Island  is  a  powder  magazine,  with  6 
huge  chambers,  holding  10,000  barrels  of  gunpowder. 


IRELAND.  3 

aud  quarried  out  of  the  solid  rock.  It  was  into  Cork 
Harbor  and  Orossbaven  Creek  tbat  Drake  retreated 
when  tbe  Spanisb  fleet  was  botly  pursuing  him.  He 
succeeded  in  hiding  bis  ships  so  effectualhr  at  a  spot 
known  to  this  day  as  Drake's  Pooly  that  the  supersti- 
tious Spaniards  attributed  tbe  disappearance  to  magic. 

There  are  three  routes  from  Queeustown  to  Cork: 
by  rail  all  the  way  (Is.  2d.,  9d.,  or  6d.) ;  by  steamer 
to  Passage  and  thence  by  rail  (fares  same  as  above) ; 
or  by  steamer  up  the  river  direct  to  Patrick's  Bridge. 
"It  would  be  difficult,"  wrote  Sir  John  Forbes,  "to 
overpraise  the  beauty  of  the  river  from  Cork  to 
Queenstown,  or  the  magnificent  harbor  or  inland  bay 
in  which  it  terminates,  more  especially  when  these  are 
seen  under  the  influence  of  a  oright  sun  and  brilliant 
sky."  At  Monkstoton,  at  a  point  where  the  river  Lee 
widens  into  a  lake,  stands  a  castle,  now  in  ruins. 

Cork  {Imperial  Hotel;  Royal  Victoria;  Comtnercial; 
and  others),  the  "capital  of  the  South,"  has  a  popula- 
tion of  80,000.  It  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the 
river  Lee,  which  is  crossed  by  numerous  bridges.  The 
Irish  name  of  Cork  signifies  "  a  swamp,"  and  well  de- 
scribes the  location  of  the  town.  The  Grand  Parade, 
the  South  Mall,  Great  George's-St.,  Mardyke,  and  St. 
Patrick's-St.,  on  which  stands  a  statue  of  Father  Mathew, 
are  the  principal  avenues.  The  Queen's  College,  a 
handsome  quadrangular  structure  in  the  Tudor-Gothic 
style,  is  situated  on  a  small  hill  near  the  S.  fork  of  the 
stream.  St.  AnrCs  CL  is  the  most  interesting  edifice 
in  Cork.  It  contains  the  "  bells  of  Shandon,"  of  which 
Fatlier  Prout  sang  so  melodiously.  This  ch.  was  built 
in  1722,  and  its  curious  steeple,  three  sides  of  which 
are  of  limestone,  while  the  fourth  is  red,  is  120  ft.  high, 
and  constructed  of  hewn  stone  from  a  Franciscan  ab& 
where  James  II.  had  once  heard  mass,  and  from 


4  CORK.  —  BLARNEY  CASTLE. 

coins  of  a  castle  which  had  been  the  official  residence 
of  the  lords-president  of  Munster.  The  Ch.  of  the 
Holy  Trinity,  founded  by  Father  Mathew,  who  began 
bis  career  as  an  apostle  of  temperance  in  Cork,  is  wor. 
thy  a  visit ;  and  so  is  the  Cathedral  of  St,  Fionn  Bar, 
Tnis  saint  founded  a  monastery  on  the  site  of  a  heathen 
temple  in  Cork  in  the  7th  century.  The  invading 
Danes,  200  years  later,  surrounded  the  little  town  with 
walls.  Cork  had  its  charter  as  a  city  taken  away  at 
the  close  of  the  15  th  century,  because  it  had  received 
Perkin  Warbeick,  the  impostor  king,  with  royal  honors. 
Tbe  charter  was  restored  in  1609.  Cromwell's  cruel- 
ties in  Cork,  in  the  War  of  the  Protectorate,  are  still 
related  by  the  inhabitants.  William  Penn,  the  founder 
of  Pennsylvania,  became  a  convert  to  Quakerism  in 
Cork,  where  he  heard  the  eloquent  preaching  of  one 
Thomas  Loe.  Cork  was  surrendered  to  Henry  II. 
in  the  12th  century  by  Dermot  M'Carthy,  Prince  of 
Desmond ;  but  the  English  invaders  were  harassed  for 
centuries  by  petty  Irish  chieftains,  and  the  sentiment 
of  independent  Irish  nationality  seems  even  nowadays 
conspicuously  manifest  in  the  neighborhood.  The  love- 
ly Victoria  Park  of  140  acres  may  be  seen  on  the  way 
to  Blarney  Castle. 

Blarney  Castle  may  be  reached  from  Cork  by.,rail 
in  16  nan.  But  the  best  plan  is  to  take  a  jaunting-car 
(about  3s.  there  and  back)  by  the  road  on  the  N.  Bank 
of  the  river.  The  distance  is  5  M.  Cormac  McCarthy 
built  the  massive  donjon  tower,  120  ft.  high,  and  the 
lower  portion,  in  the  15th  century ;  and  the  famous 
Blarney  Stone,  which  bore  the  inscription  Cormach 
MacCarthy  Fortis  Mi  Fieri  Fecit  A,  D.  1446,  now 
illegible,  was  clasped  by  two  iron  bars  to  a  proiecting 
buttress  at  the  top  of  the  castle,  at  the  N.  angle,  sev- 
•ral  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  wall,  so  that  the  persou 


IRELAND.  5 

nio  wished  to  kiss  it  had  to  hold  on  to  the  bars,  and 
project  his  body  forwai-d  in  most  riskj^  fashion.  An- 
other stone,  marked  "  1703,"  stands  within  the  tower 
in  a  place  where  it  is  quit-e  accessible  to  kisses.  "The 
Blarney  Stone,"  says  Black's  Picturesque  Tourist  of  ' 
Ireland,  "  had  lon^  been  a  byword  among  the  Irish  : 
it  is  difficult  to  conjecture  why,  unless  the  glib  tongues 
of  the  natives  of  tliis  locality  were  supposed  to  be  not 
the  ordinary  gift  of  Nature.  But  it  had  not  reached 
its  full  zenith  of  talismanic  power  until  1799,  when 
Milliken  wrote  his  well-known  song  of  *  The  Groves  of 
Blarney.'  A  curious  tradition  attributes  to  the  stone 
the  power  of  endowing  whoever  kisses  it  with  the 
sweet,  persuasive,  wheedling  eloquence,  so  perceptible 
in  the  fangunge  of  the  Cork  people,  and  which  is  usu- 
— ally  termed  Blarney ^  There  is  an  odd  story  about 
Blarney  Lake,  a  pretty  sheet  of  water,  J  M.  from  the 
castle.  It  is  said  that  the  Earl  of  Clancarty,  who  for- 
feited the  property  at  the  Revolution,  sank  all  his  fam- 
ily plate  in  a  certain  part  of  this  lake ;  that  three  of  the 
M'Uarthys  inherit  tne  secret  of  the  place  where  the 
treasure  is  sunk,  anV  one  of  whom,  aying,  communi- 
cates it  to  another  of  the  family,  and  thus  perpetuates 
the  secret,  which  is  never  to  be  made  public  until  a 
McCarthy  is  again  Lord  of  Blarney. 

Other  EzcuTsions  from  Cork.  —  To  Rostellan 
Castle  and  Cloyne,  three  times  daily  by  steamer  to 
Aghada.  In  Rostellan  Castle  is  preserved  an  ancient 
sword  said  to  have  belonged  to  Brian  Boroihme,  the 
ancestor  of  the  O'Briens.  At  Cloyne  there  is  a  14th 
century  cathedral  and  a  noted  "  round  tower."  —  To 
Youf/hal  and  the  Blackwater.  This  excursion  may  be 
made  in  a  single  day  by  taking  an  early  train  m>m 
Cork  to  Youghal  (28  M.),  whence  a  steamer  up  tl^*" 
beautiful  Blackwater  River  to  Cajypoquin,  above  w' 


6  LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY. 

point  the  stream  is  not  navigable.  At  Tougital 
(Hotel :  Devonshire  Arms)  is  the  "  Warden's  House," 
the  residence  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  in  1588-89.  It 
was  there  that  he  entertained  Spenser  when  the  poet 
was  preparing  his  "  Faerie  Queene"  for  publication.  It 
was  also  in  Youghal  that  the  first  potato  was  planted 
in  Ireland,  by  Raleigh.  From  Cappoquin  the  traveller 
may  take  the  mail  yaunting-car)  to  Idsmore,  one  of 
the  most  ancient  towns  in  Ireland,  twice  daily  (Sundays 
excepted).  Castle  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  University;  visitors  admitted.  From 
Lismore  the  tourist  can  go  by  rail  to  Fermoy  in  45  min. ; 
from  Fermoy  to  Mallow,  46 'min. ;  and  from  Mallow  he 
may  return  to  Cork,  reaching  there  in  the  evening,  or 
may  go  to  Killamey. 

Killarney.    The  Lakes,  and  Lake  Region. 

The  traveller  may  go  from  Cork  to  Killarney  by  rail, 
via  Mallow  Junction,  in  about  3  brs.,  68}  M.  (lis.  6d., 
8s.  4d.,  5s.).  Tliis  is  the  shortest,  but  the  least  inter- 
esting  route.  For  those  pressed  for  time,  it  is  the 
best.  By  leaving  Cork  late  in  the  afternoon  one  may 
reach  Killarney  in  time  to  g:et  a  good  night's  rest,  and, 
starting  early  on  the  following  morning,  may  visit  the 
most  attractive  points  in  the  region,  getting  back  to 
Mallow  Junction  in  time  to  take  a  night  train  for  Dub- 
lin. But  those  who  are  making  a  more  leisurely  tour 
will  find  themselves  well  repaid  for  taking  either  of  the 
two  routes  via.  Glengariif.  One  of  these  leads  from 
Oork  by  rail  through  Bandon  to  Dunmanway,  and 
thence  by  coach  to  Olengariflf  (/?<w;A«'«  Hotel;  Ecdes*), 
thence  to  Kenmare  (^Lansdotcne  Arms),  and  so  on 
through  a  barren  and  wild,  bnt  picturesque  country, 
across  the  mis.,  and  down  to  Killarney.     The  most 


IRELAND.  7 

eztensiye  view  of  Glengariff,  a  ravine  about  3  M.  long, 
and  rich  with  yew,  holly,  and  arbutus,  is  to  be  had  from 
Old  Berehaven  road,  near  Cromwell's  Bridge.  The 
beautiful  grounds  around  Glengariff  Castle  are  worth  a 
visit.  From  Glengariff  the  journey  may  be  extended  to 
Bsmtry  Bay,  either  by  land  or  water.  The  latter  way  is 
preferable,  affording  an  excellent  view  of  the  bold  coast 
scenery.  But  we  would  recommend  none  of  these  ex- 
cursions to  the  seaside,  unless  the  weather  is  entirely 
favorable.  Nothing  is  drearier  than  an  Irish  wet  day 
by  the  sea.  The  route  from  Cork  to  Macroom  by  rail, 
24  M.,  and  thence  by  jaunting-car  to  Glengariff,  Ken- 
mare,  and  Killamey,  is  highly  spoken  of  by  travellers 
who  have  recently  taken  it.  Both  these  above-mentioned 
ways  require  two  days,  and  a  trip  to  Bantry  Bay  will 
take  another  half-day.  In  summer  a  coach  runs  from 
Cork  to  Killamey,  in  one  day,  but  does  not  pass  through 
the  most  interesting  places.  (Fare  by  this  coach,  198.) 
Macroom  is  the  place  where  the  Irish  Bards  held  their 
meetings,  and  a  nne  ivy-ipantled  castle  may  be  seen 
there.  In  the  vicinity  of  Kenmare  there  are  many 
lovely  views ;  and  the  river  or  bay  of  Kenmare  is  by 
some  considered  the  most  beautiful  on  the  Irish  coast. 
Killamey  {Royal  Victoria  Hotel;  Railway;  Lake; 
Z»7it«^a^^7i),  population  5,000,  lies  about  Ij^M.  from  the 
N.  E.  margin  of  Lough  Leane,  or  the  Lower  Lake. 
It  possesses  a  cathedral,  designed  by  Pugin,  and  a 
nunnery,  with  a  school  attAched,  where  400  girls  are 
educated.  The  hotels  generally  command  very  good 
views  of  the  lakes  and  the  mts.  The  town  is  renowned 
for  its  beggars ;  and  for  the  artifice  of  the  peasantry 
in  extorting  sixpences  from  travellers,  in  return  for 
some  trifling  and  entirely  superfluous  service.  Two 
days  are  reouired  properly  to  see  the  lakes,  the  Gap 
of  Dunloe,  Muckross  Abbey,  and  the  Tore  Cascade; 


8  LAKES  OF  KILLARNEY. 

but  if  oiily  one  day  can  be  given,  the  best  plan  is  to 
engage  a  pony  and  ride  from  KiUamey  tiirough  the 
Oap  of  Dttnloe  to  the  head  of  the  Upper  Lake,  having 
previously  ordered  a  boat  to  be  in  readiness  at  Lord 
Brandon's  Cottage  on  that  lake.  It  is  15  M.  from  Kil- 
lamey  to  this  cottage,  and  many  may  prefer  to  walk 
rather  than  ride  a  stumbling  horse,  especially  as  they 
can  rest  in  the  boat  while  rowed  down  the  lakes  after- 
wards. Arrangements  for  horses,  boats,  etc.,  can  usu- 
ally be  made  at  the  hotels.  The  tariff  is  established  by 
local  law,  and  there  is  no  occasion  to  give  more. 

The  first  object  of  interest  on  the  road  from  Killar- 
ney  to  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  is  a  huge  county  lunatic 
asylum,  and  the  next  is  the  old  ruin  of  Aghadoe,  2^ 
M.  from  the  town.  All  that  remains  of  the  once  cele- 
brated castle  is  a  fragment  of  a  tower.  Near  by  is  a 
church,  consisting  of  two  distinct  chapels  of  unequal 
antiquity,  lying  E.  and  W.  of  each  other.  The  W. 
chapel  is  in  the  Komanesque  style,  and  was  under  the 
patronage  of  St.  Einian.  Tiie*^  E.  chapel  dates  from 
1158,  is  in  the  Pointed  style,  and  was  dedicated  t-o  the 
Holy  Trinity.  There  are  a  few  fine  country-houses  on 
the  road  beyond  Aghadoe.  Lake  View  House,  on  the 
1.,  is  the  residence  of  a  brother  of  the  great  O'Con- 
nell ;  Beaufort  House  is  attractive  ;  and  Dunloe  Castle, 
also  on  the  1.,  is  celebrated  as  having  been  one  of  the 
i^esidences  of  the  powerful  O'SuUivan  Mor.  The  pres- 
ent proprietor  has  restored  the  castle.  About  2  M. 
4Vom  the  entrance  to  the  Gap  is  the  Cane  of  Dunloe  (in 
a  field  not  far  from  the  road).  This  cavern  was  opened 
in  1838  by  some  laborers  digging  a  ditch,  and  was 
found  to  be  roofed  with  impost  stones,  in  the  angles  of 
which  were  inscriptions  in  the  ancient  Ocham  charac- 
ter, supposed  t-o  have  been  used  by  the  Druids  before 
the  introduction  of  Christianity  into  Ireland.    Thia 


IRELAND.  9 

venerable  storehouse  of  Irish  history  will  have  but 
small  interest  for  the  tourist,  and  he  will  do  well  to 
press  on  to  the  Gap.  On  his  way  thither  he  will  pass 
the  cabin  in  which  the  fair  "  Kate  Kearney  "  once  re- 
sided, and  will  doubtless  be  invited  by  one  of  her 
descendants  to  exchange  sixpence  or  a  shilling  for  a 
mysterious  drink  of  goats'  milk  and  whbkey. 

Of  the  Gap  of  Danloe  an  Irish  writer  has  said : 
"  It  appears  as  if  the  vast  range  of  mts.,  of  which  this 
most  singular  ravine  is  composed,  were  cleft  in  twain 
by  a  mighty  sword :  one  is  not  surprised  at  its  appear- 
ance  having  given  rise  to  such  a  tradition."  It  is  a 
narrow  deme  4  M.  long,  between  the  range  of  hiiis 
called  ".Macgillicuddy's  Reeks  "and  the  Purple  Mt., 
a  shoulder  of  the  Tomies.  The  rapid  stream  called 
the  Loe  traverses  the  wliole  length  of  the  glen,  ex- 
panding  at  various  places  into  nve  lakes  known  as 
the  Cummee»  Thomeen.  The  road  is  a  mere  bridle, 
path,  sometimes  on  the  very  edge  of  precipices.  The 
peasantry  say  that  it  was  at  the  Black  Lough,  one  of  the 
small  lakes,  that  St.  Patrick  banished  the  last  snake 
from  Ireland.  Many  travellers  who  are  disappointed 
in  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  find  the  view,  just  after  leaving 
it,  up  what  is  called  the  Black  Vallei/,  extremely  im- 
pressive. The  Grap  is  bordered  by  rocky  peaks  vary- 
mg  from  2,000  to  3,400  ft.  in  height ;  but  the  vast  and 
desolate  amphitheatre  of  the  Black  Valley,  with  its 
ruj^ged  masses  of  darkened  rock,  its  circular  basins  of 
still  water  filled  with  dissolved  peaty  matter,  and  its 
wild  and  mysterious  recesses,  gives  an  impression  of 
grandeur  and  wonder  which  its  neighbor  ravine  falls  to 

Sroduce.  The  view  down  the  valley  in  a  wann,  hazy 
ay  is  verj  striking.  The  water  in  the  lakes  throws 
back  the  light  which  it  receives  by  reflection  from  the 
sky,  and  thus  seems  to  be  lighted  from  below. 


10  l^AKES  OF  KILLARNEY. 

At  numerous  points  in  the  Gap  and  on  the  Lake9 
there  are  superb  echoes,  and  there  is  no  lack  of  peas- 
ants to  awaken  them,  and  to  claim  a  fee  for  having 
done  so.  A  narrow  and  rugged  footpath  leads  down 
from  the  head  of  the  Gap  to  Lord  Brandon's  Cottage, 
where  the  tourist  who  has  ordered  a  boat  before  leav- 
ing Killamey  will  find  it  waitins  for  him.  It  is  veil 
to  have  lunch  provided  in  the  boat,  so  that  one  can 
take  it  as  he  is  rowed  down  towards  the  Middle  and 
Lower  Lakes.  From  Lord  Brandon's  Cottage  one 
may  ascend  Purple  Mt.  (2,739  ft.  high),  and  from 
the  summit  get  a  fine  view  of  the  Upper  and  Middle 
Lakes  and  along  stretch  of  the  sea-coast  beyond;  but 
this  would  require  half  a  day  at  least 

The  Lakes.  —  From  the  cottage,  across  the  Upper 
Lake,  2^  M.,  the  boatmen  row  so  as  to  show  the 
tourist  the  numerous  pretty  islands.  The  first  of  these 
is  M'Carthy^s;  the  second.  Arbutus  Island,  completely 
covered  with  the  beautiful  plant  whose  name  it  bears. 
*<The  islands  in  the  lakes  of  Cumberland,"  says  the 
author  of  Black's  Picturesque  Tourist,  "are  either 
grassy  holms,  with  sometimes  a  niece  of  yellow  whin 
ta  catch  the  eye,  or  perhaps  a  solitaiy  tree  or  shrub, 
or,  if  larger,  such  as  St.  Herbert's  and  Lord's  Isle  on 
Derwentwater,  bearing  shady  groves  of  ash  and  plane, 
mixed  with  ever^  other  variety  of  forest  trees.  The 
islands  on  the  Aillamey  Lakes  have  a  totally  different 
aspect,  produced  entirely  by  the  presence  of  the  arbutus 
(^Arbutus  unedo).  Even  in  winter  the  leaves  are  of  a 
rich  glossy  green,  and  so  clustered  at  the  terminations 
of  the  branches  that  the  waxen,  flesh-like  flowers,  which 
hang  in  graceful  racemee,  or  the  rich  crimson,  straw- 
berry-like  fruit,  seem  cradled  in  a  nest  of  verdure." 
The  U}^r  Lake  is  thought  by  most  people  to  be  the 
finest  of  the  three.    On  the  S.  lie  the  Derrycunihy  mt 


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IRELAND 

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IRELAND.  V  11 

ranges,  and  on  the  1.  the  high  "Reeks."  The  Lon^ 
Range  is  a  river,  rather  3  than  2  M.  in  length,  connect- 
ing the  Upper  with  the  Middle  Lake.  Things  to  note 
here;  Golman*s  Ilye;  The  Man,  of  War;  The  F<Mr 
Friendsy  a  group  of  islets ;  The  Eagle* s  Nest,  a  cliff 
which  towers  700  ft.  above  the  river  (the  echoes  heard 
from  this  point  are  remarkably  fine) ;  Old  Weir  Bridge^ 
an  ancient  structure,  under  which  the  water  rushes 
swiftly.  The  small  boat  is  carried  through  at  great 
speed,  and  floats  into  a  still  pool  called  me  Meeting 
of  Waters,  near  Dinish  Island,  and  then  into  the 
Middle^  which  is  also  called  Muckross,  or  Tore  Lake. 
On  Dinish  Island  there  is  a  cottage  where  dinner  may 
be  had,  if  previously  ordered  from  the  hotel  in  Kil- 
lamey  in  the  morning.  Tore  Cascade  can  be  visited 
from  this  point ;  but  it  will  be  better  to  take  this  in 
conjunction  with  the  visit  to  Muckross  Abbey,  a  little 
farther  on.  Passing  under  Briekeen  Bridge,  the  boat 
enters  Lough  Leane,  or  the  Lower  Lake.  The  area 
of  this  is  about  5,000  acres ;  its  ^eatest  length  5  M., 
breadth  3  M.  There  are  thirty  islands,  the  principal 
one  of  which,  the  Boss,  is  the  location  of  the  last 
stronghold  in  Munster  that  surrendered  to  the  Parlia- 
mentary army.  The  castle  was  built  in  the  14th  cen- 
tury, by  one  of  the  O'Donoghues.  The  island  of  Innis- 
fallen,  midway  in  the  lake,  is  celebrated  in  history  and 
fiction;  and  that  keen  observer,  Arthur  Young,  said 
of  it  that  it  was  "  the  most  beautiful  in  the  king's  do- 
minions, and  perhaps  in  Europe."  The  ruins  of  the 
noted  abbejr  are  pointed  out.  The  *'  Annals  of  Innis- 
fallen,"  a  Icind  ot  universal  history  down  to  the  time  of 
St.  Patrick,  were  written  in  this  abbey  about  600  years 
ago.  The  original  copy  of  this  curious  work  is  now 
preserved  in  the  Bodleian  Library.  In  1180  the  abbey, 
mto  which  all  the  treasures  of  the  adjacent  country 


12  MUCKROSS  ABBEY. 

had  been  gatliei*ed  for  safe  keeping,  ^yas  plundered  bj 
Mildwin,  son  of  Daniel  O'Donoghue.  The  boatmen 
will  tell  the  traveller  quite  as  much  as  he  will  care  to 
hear  about  the  past  of  "  sweet  Innisfallen."  The  part 
of  the  Lower  take  first  entered  is  called  Glena  Bay, 
From  the  shore  near  RahUt  Island  it  is  but  a  short 
walk  to  0' Sullivan' 8  Cascade. 

Those  who  wish  to  \isit  Muckross  Abbey  on  the 
same  day  as  the  Gan  and  Lakes,  should  arrange  with 
their  boatmen  to  lana  them  at  the  point  of  the  Lower 
Lake  nearest  to  it.  From  the  shore  through  the 
handsome  estate  of  Mr.  Herbert  to  the  abbey  is  but 
a  short  walk.  The  noted  ruins  are  those  of  a  ch. 
and  abbey,  founded  in  1440,  partly  restored  in  1602, 
and  still  in  decent  preservation.  In  the  ch.  are  many 
ancient  tombs ;  among  them,  those  of  the  O'Sullivans, 
McCarthys,  and  O'Donoghue  Mor.  The  aims  of  a 
gigantic  yew-tree  support  the  crumbling  wall  of  a 
beautiful  cloister.  The  trunk  of  the  vew  is  13  ft.  in 
circumference.  Fees  are  not  exact-ed  nere ;  but  it  is 
customary  to  give  something.  Muckross  Abbey  Man- 
sion is  a  fine  example  of  the^lizabethan  style  of  archi- 
tecture. Passing  through  Mr.  Herbert's  grounds,  the 
visitor  is  admitted  at  a  small  wicket  (fee,  6d.)  to  the 
enclosure  within  which  is  the  Tore  Cascade,  Climb 
up  above  the  fall,  which  is  60-70  ft.  high,  and  look 
down  upon  it  and  out  over  the  lakes.  Visitors  may,  if 
they  wish,  drive  or  walk  through  the  grounds  of  the 
Earl  of  Kenmarc  to  Eoss  Island  and  Castle.  The 
island  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  dike. 

From  Muckross  to  Killarney  the  distance  is  about 
3^  M.  The  entire  round  trip  is  not  very  fatiguing. 
We  recommend  the  tourist  to  ride  the  first  11  M.  to 
the  Gap ;  walk  4  M.  through  tlie  Gap  to  Lord  Bran- 
don's Cottage;  then  the  13  M.  across  the  lakes  to 


IRELAND,  13 

Muckross  and  the  3^  M.  into  KiUaruej  can  be  done 
easily  before  dark. 

Other  Bzcuralons  from  Killamey.  —  Ascent  oj 
Mount  Mangerton  (2,756  ft.).  On  the  way  one  comes 
to  the  "  Devil's  Punch  Bowl,"  a  mountain  tarn  2,206 
ft.  above  the  sea  level.  It  occupies  a  basin  28  acres  in 
extent.  Charles  James  Tox  swam  around  it  in  1772. 
Ascent  of  the  Reeks :  interesting,  but  somewhat  diffi- 
cult. Journey  to  Valentia :  it  is  worth  a  day's  ride  on 
a  jaunting-car  to  see  the  mighty  waves  beating  against 
the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  Atlantic  coast.    The  train  from 

KiUarney  to  Dublin 

(time,  7  hrs. ;  fares,  34,  25,  or  16s.^  reaches  the  main 
line  at  Mallow  Junction.  Near  Mallow  are  the  ruins 
of  Kilcolman  Castle^  where  Edmund  Spenser  wrote  the 
"  Faerie  Queene."  He  obtained,  in  1586,  a  grant  of 
land  from  the  forfeited  testates  of  the  Earl  of  Desmond, 
on  condition  that  he  should  inhabit  the  country.  In 
1597  his  castle  was  attacked  by  the  native  Irish,  to 
whom  he  had  rendered  himself  obnoxious,  and  his  in- 
fant child  perished  in  the  flames  which  destroyed  liis 
home.  He  fled  to  London,  aud  died  of  a  broken  heart. 
At  Limerick  Junction  the  main  line  from  Dubhn  to  Cork 
is  intersected  by  the  Waterford  and  Limerick  line. 

Limerick  {Royal  Hotel ;  Qeorge  ;  Glentworth),  on 
the  Shannon,  ''the  noblest  of  Irish  rivers,"  deserves 
a  visit,  which  can  be  made  in  a  day,  including  the  re- 
turn to  the  line  to  Dublin.  Limerick  has  about  40,000 
inhab. ;  and  contains  a  venerable  cathedral  transformed 
into  a  Protestant  church,  and  a  noble  castle  built  in 
King  John's  time. 

Waterford  {Adelphi  Hotel;  Imperial)  merits  a  visit, 
but  is  perhaps  too  far  off  the  line  of  the  vacation 


1 4        W  ATERFORD.  —  C  ASHEL.  —  DUBLIN. 

tourist.  It  is  a  handsome  town  of  23,000  inhab.,  on 
the  Suir ;  and  was  tiie  scene  of  nmuy  terrible  fights 
between  the  Irish  and  the  Danes.  Between  Limerick 
Junction  and  Dublin  there  are  many  places  of  histori* 
cal  importance.  From  QooWs-Cross  Station  it  is  but 
5  M.  across  country  to  the  Rock  of  Cashel,  which 
rises  300  ft.  above  the  plain.  .  Cashel  was  the  residence 
of  the  Kings  of  Munster ;  and  there  Henry  II.  received 
the  homage  of  Donald,  King  of  Limerick,  in  1172. 
Edward  the  Bruce  also  held  a  parliament  there.  Near 
Thurles  are  the  ruins  of  Holy -Gross  Abbey,  Just 
beyond  Portarlington  the  river  Barrow  is  crossed  on 
an  iron  viaduct  500  ft.  long.  Kildare,  "  the  city  re- 
nowned for  saints,"  is  30  M.  from  Dublin.  It  pos- 
sesses the  ruins  of  a  cathedral ;  and  the  Chapel  of  St. 
Brigid,  called  the  "Fire  House"  because  it  is  the  sup- 
posed location  of  the  fire  which  nuns  kept  burning  night 
and  day  for  a  thousand  years  "  for  the  benefit  of  j)oor 
strangers,"  is  still  shown.  The  "  Curragh,"  an  ancient 
race-course,  and  now  used  as  a  military  encampment 
and  practice  ground  for  soldiers,  is  just  beyond  Kil- 
dare. Sham  fights  are  sometimes  given  there  in  the 
summer  months.  Near  Hazelhatch  station  is  Celbridge 
Abbey ^  once  the  residence  of  Swift's  "  Vanessa." 

Dublin  and  Vicinity. 

Two  days  can  be  spent  to  advantage  in  visiting  Dub- 
lin, provided  the  weather  be  fair.  May,  June,  and 
August  are  excellent  months  for  the  visit  But  the 
hurried  tourist  can  manage  to  secure  a  tolerable  idea  of 
the  Irish  capital  by  a  ride  of  3-4  hrs.  on  a  jaunting-oar« 
or  by  half  a  day's  leisurely  walk.  Dublin  {SAelboume 
Motel;  Gresham,  ^od  but  rather  dear;  Morrison's i 
'^etropole;  ImpencU;  Eumpean;  Ahbey ;  Royal  Comr 


IBELAND.  15 

merdalj  EdtriMtrgh,  temperance)  is  a  city  of  420,000 
inhab.,  on  the  river  LifFey,  which  divides  it  into  two 
nearly  equal  parts,  and,  shortly  beloW  the  town,  widens 
into  a  fine  bay,  on  one  side  of  which  rises  the  Hill  of 
Howth,  and  on  the  other  Killiney  Hill,  near  Kingstown. 
Those  who  do  hot  dread  sudden  showers  should  engage 
an  open  car  by  the  hr.  (Is.  id.  for  first  hr.,  and  6cl  for 
each  additional  J  hr.),  and  drive  to  the  Bank  of  Ireland, 
Trinity  College,  Dublin  Castle,  Christ's  Church  Cathe- 
dral, St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  the  General  Post-Qffice, 
Nelson's  Monument,  the  Custom  House,  the  Four 
Courts,  and  finally  to  Phoenix  Park.  This  will  enable 
one  to  judge  pretty  well  of  the  main  exterior  attrac- 
tions. The  shops  in  Dublin  are  quite  as  fine  as  those 
of  London.  The  fine  mall  of  Sackville-St.,  with  its  cut- 
granite  Doric  column  to  Nelson,  121  ft.  high,  is  impos- 
ing, from  Carlisle  Bridge.  The  Liffey  is  navigable  to 
this  bridge ;  but  no  large  vessels  come  above  the 

Custom  House,  the  finest  building  in  the  city.  It 
is  a  handsome  quadrangular  structure,  tne  principal  front 
of  which  faces  the  river.  Notice  the  allegorical  compo- 
sition' in  the  central  portico.  It  represents  BritanniA 
and  Hibernia  in  a  marine  shell,  a  group  of  merchant- 
men approaching,  and  Neptune  driving  away  famine 
and  despair.  The  dome  is  120  ft.  high,  and  bears  on  its 
summit  a  statue  of  Hope.  From  Nelson's  Monument,  a 
good  view  of  the  city  and  suburbs  may  be  obtained.  Fee 
for  ascent,  6d.  The  statue  of  the  hero  is  the  work  of 
a  native  sculptor,  Thomas  Kirk ;  and  the  sum  of  £6,856, 
which  the  memorial  cost,  was  raised  by  subscription 
among  Nelson's  Irish  admirers.  The  General  Fo$f' 
Office  has  a  majestic  Ionic  portico,  surmounted  by 
figures  of  Hibernia,  Mercury,  and  Fidelity. 

The  Pour  Courts,  on  King's  Inn  Quay,  is  tb- 
name  of  a  handsome  building,  in  which  are  the  Cc 


16  DUBLIN. 

of  Queen's  Bencli,  Chancery,  ExcKequer,  and  Common 
Pleas.  It  was  begun  on  the  site  of  an  old  Bominicaii 
monastery  in  1776,  and  was  completed  just  at  the  time 
of  the  umon  of  the  two  nations.  Cost  about  £200,000. 
The  fa9ade  on  the  river  is  450  ft.  lougl  The  great  cir- 
cular hall  in  the  centre  is  lighted  by  jets  of  gas,  which 
issne  from  a  torch  borne  in  the  hands  of  a  gi^ntic  figure 
of  Truth.  New  buildings  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
Land  Courts  have  recently  been  erected  near  by. 

Phooniz  Park  contains  1,750  acres,  fairly  well  laid 
out.  Interesting  reviews  of  troops  are  sometimes  held 
there.  Monuments  in  the  Park.  —  The  JTeliinaion  Tes- 
timonial, erected  in  1817,  at  a  cost  of  iS0,000,  by 
the  Iron  Duke^s  fellow-townsmen  of  Dublm.  This 
quadrangular,  truncated  obelisk  of  Wicklow  granite 
has  sunken  panels  on  each  side  of  its  pedestal,  contain- 
ing relievos  m  metal,  three  representing  military  pieces 
and  the  fourth  containing  the  laurel-crowned  nead  of. 
the  hero  himself.  The  battles  in  wiiich  the  Duke  took 
part  are  inscribed  here,  and  the  bas-reliefs  are  made 
from  captured  cannon. — The  Carlisle  Memorial  Statue, 
by  Foley,  in  commemoration  of  Lord  Carlisle's  8  years 
of  vice-regency.  On  the  r.,  near  the  entrance  of  the 
park,  is  tne  Military  Hospital,  and  a  little  farther  on 
the  Constabulary  Barracks.  Within  the  park  limits  the 
Lord-Lieutenant  has  a  summer  residence.  Zoological 
Garden  (admission,  Is. ;  on  Sun.,  2d.),  not  far  away. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  river  Liffey,  and  passmg  from 
Carlisle  Bridge,  through  Westmoreland-St,  at  the  E. 
side  of  which  there  is  a  statue  of  Tom  ifooie,  one 
comes  to  the  Bank  of  Ireland,  in  College  Green.  This 
was  once  used  as  the  Parliament  House.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  1787,  at  a  cost  of  £95,000,  but  was  purchased 
in  1802  by  the  company  of  the  Bank  of  Ireland  for 
£40,000  and  an  annual  rental  of  £240.     The' entrance 


IRELAND.  17 

to  the  former  House  of  Lords  was  by  a  portico  on  the 
E.  side.  The  House  of  Lords  (visitors  admitted)  re- 
mains unaltered,  except  that  a  statue  of  George  III. 
occupies  the  site  of  tne  throne.  Old  tapestries,  rep- 
resenting  the  "  Siege  of  DeiTj  "  and  "  King  WiiUam 
Crossing  the  Boyne,"  are  worthy  of  notice,  as  is  also 
the  mantel-piece  of  Kilkenny  marble.  Directiy  oppo- 
site the  bank  is  Trinity  College ;  and  on  either  side  of 
the  entrance  to  it  are  the  famous  Statues  of  Goldsmith 
and  Burke,  by  Foley.  Trinity  was  founded  in  Poj^e 
John  XXII. 's  time,  and  was  closed  in  Henry  VIII. 's 
reign,  but  opened  again  by  Elizabeth,  who  erected  it  into 
a  corporation.  In  1627  a  new  code  of  laws  was  framed 
for  it.  Tlie  civil  wars  of  the  Protectorate  brought  its 
fortunes  to  a  low  ebb  ;  but  James  I.  and  Cliarles  II. 
endowed  it  liberally.  The  institution,  which  is  open  to 
all  creeds,  usually  assembles  about  1,400  students,  and 
has  educated  some  of  the  most  renowned  of  modem  wits. 
The  Museum  contains  Brian  Boroihme's  harp  and  the 
charter-horn  of  King  O'Kavahagli ;  the  noble  dining- 
hall  is  decorated  with  portraits  of  GrattAn,  Lord  Avon- 
more,  Chief  Justice  Downs,  Flood,  Lord  Kilwarden, 
Prince  I'rederick,  father  of  George  III.,  and  Lord 
Cairns.  Hewitson's  fine  monument  to  Provost  Bald- 
win, in  the  building  on  the  r.  of  the  first  courtyard, 
should  be  seen.  The  library  contains  nearly  300,000 
volumes,  and  in  the  E.  end  is  a  very  valuable  collection 
known  as  the  "Fagel  Library."  Note  the  Geological 
Mtiseum  and  Lecture  Rooms ^  in  College  Park.  On 
College  Green  there  is  an  equestrian  statue  in  lead  of 
William  III.,  erected  in  1701 ;  and  a  statue  of  Grattan. 
Dublin  Castle  requires  but  slight  notice.  Nearly 
all  trace  of  its  original  design  is  now  lost.  The  Vice- 
regal Chapel  and  Apartments,  St.  Patrick's  Hall,  t*^ 
Portrait  Chamber,  and  the  Private  Drawing  Roor 
2 


18  DUBLIN. 

tshown  by  the  attendants  for  small  ffratuities,  except 
during  **  the  season/'  The  stained-^ass  windows  of 
the  c^pel  contain  the  arms  of  all  the  Lord-Lieutenants. 
Good  music  in  this  chapel  Sunday  forenoons.  Band 
plays  in  the  courtyard  mornings. 

St  Pataick's  Cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  a  reli- 
gious edifice  built  by  St.  Patrick  himself,  near  the  well 
m  which  he  baptized  his  converts.  The  present  build- 
ing was  begun  by  Archbishop  Comyn  in  1190,  and 
restored  and  much  improved,  after  the  destruction  of  a 
portion  of  it  by  fire,  under  the  care  of  Archbishop 
Minot,  in  1370.  Monuments  worth  notice  inside: 
one  to  Boyle,  Earl  of  Cork ;  and  one  to  the  Duke  of 
Schomberg,  with  an  epitaph  by  Swift,  who  was  long 
Dean  of  the  cathedral.  Two  marble  slabs  mark  the 
resting-places  of  Swift  and  his  "  Stella  "  (Mrs.  Hester 
Johnson).  Sir  B.  L.  Guinness,  the  brewer,  had  the 
cathedral  repaired  and  restored  in  1860-63,  at  a  cost 
■of  £140,000.  The  Lady  Chapel  was  used  by  George 
IV.  as  Chapter  House  for  the  Knights  of  St.  Patrick. 

Chrisf  a  Church  Cathedral  is  of  ancient  founda- 
tion ;  but  the  present  structure  is  comparatively  modem. 
It  was  first  erected  in  1038,  and  enlarged  in  later  days 
by  Strongbow  and  Eitzstephen,  and  still  later  by  Bay- 
mond-le-Gros.  It  was  in  Christ  Church  that  the  ht- 
urgy  was  first  read  in  Ireland  in  the  EngUsh  tongue. 
Note  Earl  Strongbow's  monumental  tomb.  The  local 
guides  will  tell  you  the  various  conflicting  reports  con- 
cerning its  authenticity.  This  edifice,  like  St.  Patrick's, 
owes  its  restoration  to  a  vender  of  strong  drink,  who 
expended  £200,000  on  it.  Stephen's  Green  is  a  hand- 
some  square  surrounded  with  fine  mansions.  On  the 
W.  side  is  the  Royal  College  of  Surgeons^  erected  in 
1806-25.  Museum:  good  collection.  E.  side:  Royal 
^  '^".qe  of  Science.     In  centre  of  Green,  a  statue  of 


IKiiLAND.  19 

Geoige  II.,  by  Van  Nast.  S.  side :  the  Catholic  Uni- 
Yersitj»  the  palace  of  the  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  and 
the  Shelbourne  Hotel.  On  Earlsfort  Terrace  is  the  pal- 
ace in  which  the  Dublin  Exhibition  of  1872  was  held. 
.  It  was  purchased  by  Sir  Arthur  and  E.  C.  Guinness, 
and  devoted  to  the  public  benefit.  It  contains  one 
concert  hall  capable  of  seating  3,000  persons. 

Other  IwhereBting  Sights  in  Dublin,  —  The  Bofol 
Hibernian  Academv,  erected  in  1824!  for  the  promotion 
of  the  fine  arts  (exhibition  opens  in  February ;  closes  in 
Jnly).  The  National  Qalleryy  with  a  statue  of  Dargan 
in  front  on  the  N.  side  of  Leinster  Lawn.  Merrion- 
Bow  and  Merrion^St. :  the  house  in  which  Wellington 
was  ^  bom  in  1769 ;  and  at  30  Merrion-Square,  the 
mansion  where  Daniel  O'Connell  resided  for  some 
years.  Birthplace  of  Tom  Moore,  12  Aungier-St. 
Royal  Dublin  Society,  and  King's  and  Queen's  College 
of  Physicians,  in  Kildare-St.  The  City  Hall,  with 
Hagan's  statue  of  O'Connell  inside.  The  Com  Ex- 
change, the  meeti^-place  of  the  National  Council  in 
1832,  and  of  the  Repeal  Association  later  on.  Con- 
ciliation Hall,  now  a  com  store,  but  the  scene  of  many 
of  0'Connell*s  triumphs.  Theatre  Royal,  Hawkins-St. 
The  Poplin  Manufactories :  Dublin  poplins  are  famous  ; 
and  the  industry  is  rapidly  reviving. 

Bxcorsions  from  Dublin.  —  To  Glasn^vin  Cem- 
etery, where  are  graves  and  fine  monuments  of  O'Con- 
nell, Steele,  and  Curran,  2  M.  from  the  city.  Botanic 
Gardens,  near  by.  —  Dublin  to  Howth :  Several  trains 
daily.  Distance,  9  M.  The  peninsular  Hill  of  Howth 
is  the  first  landmark  sighted  on  approachmg  DubUn 
from  the  sea.  The  route  leads  past  Clontarf,  the  scene 
of  Brian  Boroihme's  last  victory  over  the  Danes,  to 
Howth,  a  pleasant  village  on  the  hilL  From  the  har- 
bor an  excursion  in  boat  may  be  made  to  the  island 


20  DROGHEDA.—  BRAY. 

"Ireland's  jfiye."  Boatman's  fee,  2s.  The  Abbey  of 
Howth  is  pleasantly  located  on  a  steep  overhanging 
the  ocean.  On  the  Hill  of  Howth  stands  an  ancient 
Cromlech,  a  huge  oblong  stone,  about  14x12,  supported 
on  numerous  others.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  portion 
of  a  sepulchral  monument  to  a  departed  chief.  — 
ACalahide  {Royal  Hotel),  9  M.  from  Dublin,  has  a 
notable  castle  and  abbey.  The  altar-tomb  in  the 
ruined  abbey  is  a  memorial  of  the  sad  history  of  the 
lady  who  in  one  day  was  "  maid,  wife,  and  widow,'* 

—  the  daughter  of  Lord  Plunkett.  —  Drogheda  {Im- 
perial Hotel),  1^  hrs.  by  rail  from  Dublin.  This  was 
the  first  place  attacked  oy  Cromwell  in  1649,  and  was 
carried  by  assault,  led  by  the  Protector  himself. 
Drogheda  was  also  the  scene  of  the  "Battle  of  the 
Boyne,"  fought,  July  1,  1690,  between  the  Prince  of 
Orange  and  his  father-in-law,  James  II.  An  obelisk 
150  ft.  high  marks  the  spot  where  William  began  the 
attack  and  where  Schombei-g  fell.  From  Drogheda, 
Tara  and  Kells  may  be  visited. 

From  Dublin  to  Bray  and  the  Wicklow  Mts.  is  a 
charming  excursion.  Bray,  12  M.  from  Dublin  {Ma^ 
rine  Hotel ;  Internatio?ial),  beautifully  situated;  head- 
nuarters  for  trips  to  the  Dargle  (car,  2s.),  to  the 
Waterfall  (car,  4s.),  to  the  Glen  of  the  Downs  (car, 
3s.  6d.),  to  Grey  stones  (car,  4s.  6d.).  From  Bray  to 
the  Devil's  Glen,  the  Seven  Churches,  and  the  Vale 
of  Avoca,  where  "the  bright  waters  meet,"  is  a  prof- 
itable journey.  Go  by  rad  from  Bray  to  Rathnew 
Stat.,  from  Rathnew  by  car  to  Devil's  Glen,  from 
DeviVs  Glen  by  car  to  the  "  Meeting  of  the  Waters," 
in  all  about  38  M.,  and  return  by  rail  to  Bray,  28  M. 

—  From  Bray  to  Wicklow,  along  the  coast  byrail,  — 
desirable  journey  in  bright  weather.  The  Wicklow 
Mt.  section  is  rich  in  quiet  beauty ;  the  rly.  fares  along 


IRELAND.  21 

the  coast  are  moderate,  and  car-drvers  must  be  held  to 
the  tariff.  Purchase  one  of  the  excellent  local  guides, 
for  descriptions  of  the  scenery. 

If  the  tourist  decides  to  go  to  Wales  and  England 
via  Dublin  and  Holyhead',  he  can  go  to  Holyhead  via 
the  North  Wall  iK)ute  for  8s.  or  4s.,  or  via  Kings- 
,town  for  12s.  or  8s.  We  think  most  American  tour- 
ists prefer  the  latter  route.  By  rail  from  Dublin  to 
Kin^town,  6  M.;  thence  across  the  Irish  Channel,  66 
M.,  4  hrs.  There  are  two  through  services  to  London 
daily,  —  one  leaving  Dublin  at  6.46,  evening ;  the  other 
at  6.45,  morninff.  Tourists  who  wish  to  make  the  jour- 
ney by  day  would  better  go  to  Kingstown  in  the  even- 
ing, and  sleep  on  the  boat  which  is  ta  start  next 
morning.  This  will  cost  2s.  extra.  Then  they  can 
breakfast  at  their  leisure,  —  if  the  Irish  Channel  leaves 
them  any  leisure.- 

Blingatown  {Bo^al  Marine  Hotel;  Anglesea  Arms) 
is  so  called  because  George  IV.  landed  there  on  a  visit 
to  Ireland.  An  obelisk  commemorates  the  royal  land- 
ing. The  refuge  harbor  embraces  an  area  of  250  acres. 
Before  the  present  admirable  system  of  "  Irish  Lights  ** 
was  completed,  many  serious  accidents  to  shipping  oc- 
curred near  Kingstown. 

We  give  a  few  fares  from  various  points  in  Ireland 
to  the  starting-points  in  England  via  Kingstown,  as 
tourists'  plans  vary  widely.  Fare  from  Queenstowa 
direct  to  Liverpool,  Birkenhead,  or  Chester,  48s.,  35s. 
6d ;  from  Queenstown  to  London  direct,  69s.  6d., 
62s ;  from  Dublin  to  London  direct,  60s.,  45s ;  from 
Dubhn  to  Liverpool,  Chester,  ox  Birkenhead,  30s.,. 
22s.  6d.;  from  Dublin  to  Manchester,  33s.  6d.,  25s. 
The  fares  to  all  these  places  via  the  North  Wall  route 
to  Holyhead  from  Dublin  are  considerably  lower,  — 
from  Queenstown  to  Chester,  via  North  Watt,  8^ 


22  MAYNOOTH.— AUBURN. 

S88.:  from  Dublin  to  Chester  or  Liverpool,  via  Nortl 
Wall,  208.,  158.1 

If  the  weather  is  fine,  some  interesting  views  on  the 
Irish  and  Welsh  coasts  may  be  had  during  the  crossing 
to  Holyhead.  The  mail  packets,  Ulster,  Munster, 
Leinstefy  and  Connaugkt,  are  remarkably  strong,  swift, 
>nd  spacious. 

From  Dublin  to  Galway. 

This  route  takes  ene  from  tbe  E.  to  the  "wild  west 
-coast,"  in  5|  hrs.  (fares,  23s.  8d.,  19s.  8d.,  lis.  lOd.); 
distance,  126^  M.  Glasnevin,  where  Addison,  Swift, 
Tickell,  Shendan,  and  other  celebrities  resided;  and 
Jf  ayaooth,  where  there  is  a  castle  erected  in  1426  by 
the  Earl  of  Kildare,  and  the  Royal  College  of  St.  Pat- 
rick,— are  interesting.  At  Mullingar  are  the  remains 
of  an  Augustine  priory.  Athlone  is  an  important  mili- 
tary station.  Not  far  from  here  the  Shannon  is  crossed 
hs  a  magnificent  bridge.  Just  beyond  Woodlavm,  tlie 
Connemara  Mts.  become  visible  to  the  r.  Athenry  is 
«n  ancient  town,  with  ruined  castellated  gates,  walls, 
and  religious  establishments.  At  Oranmore  a  view  of 
Galway  Bay  and  the  Islands  of  Arran  may  be  obtained. 
From  Athlone  a  car  may  be  taken  to  Auburn,  8  M. 
<fare,  6d.  jjer  M.).  Auburn  is  "The  Deserted  Village  " 
of  Goldsmith,  and  its  real  name  is  Lishoy ;  but  since  the 
famous  Oliver  gave  it  the  name  of  Auburn,  it  has  always 
retained  it.    The  most  interesting  relic  in  the  village  is 

1  The  summer  tooiist  in  Ireland  will  find  it  to  his  ad  van- 
tage  to  purchase  the  monthly  time-tables  (price,  2d.)  of  the 
London  and  Northwestern,  and  Midland  Rlys.  These  ex- 
cellent  books  contain  a  great  variety  of  information  about 
circular  tours  in  Ireland,  in  connection  with  the  above-meu' 
oned  lines. 


IRELAND.  23 

Ibe  ruined  parsonage,  where  the  Rev.  Charles  Groldsmith, 
the  original  of  Dr.  Primrose  in  the  "  Vicar  of  Wake- 
field," struggled  for  the  maintenance  of  his  large  family. 
OaliTiray  {Railway  Hotel,  at  the  station;  Hoyal} 
is  a  quaint  old  town,  rather  Spanish  in  appearance,  with 
wide  gateways,  broad  stairs,  and  many  other  evidences 
of  the  predominance  of  Spanish  ideas  in  former  times. 
For  a  long  period  during  and  after  the  14th  century,  ex- 
tensive trade  was  carried  on  between  Spain  and  Galway, 
and  Irish  merchants  made  frequent  and  protracted 
visits  to  Spain.  Some  of  the  residences  of  the  mer- 
chant princes  of  old  days  are  now  tenement  houses,  occu- 
pied by  the  verv  poorest  and  lowest  class.  QueeiCs 
College  is  a  hanJsome  Gothic  structure,  built  of  gray 
limestone.  Galway  Bay  is  the  finest  in  Ireland; 
and  the  distance  to  St*  Johns,  Newfoundland,  is  1,636 
M.  The  'Western  Highlands  of  Connemara, 
and  the  County  Clare,  including  the  region  rendered 
famous  by  the  troubles  of  landlords  and  tenants 
in  the  last  few  years,  abound  in  fine  scenery.  The 
road  from  Galway  to  Clifden  and  Westport,  88  M. 
(car  fares  about  14s.  6d.),  passes  through  the  most  at- 
tractive part  of  the  region.  Westport  Qiailway  Hotel; 
Connemara)  is  a  pretty  town ;  and  the  domain  of  the 
Marquis  of  Sligo  should  be  visited.  See  Clare  Island, 
the  ancierft  residence  of  Grace  O'Malley. 

Dublin  to  Belfast,  Portrush,  The  Giant's 
Causeway,  etc. 

In  leaving  Dublin  for  this  excursion,  the  traveller 
must  consider  whether  he  intends  to  return  to  Dublin 
and  cross  to  England  via  Kingstown  and  Holyhead,  or 
to  cross  from  Belfast  to  Gksgow  or  Liverpool  or 
Fleetwood.   If  he  means  to  come  oack  to  Dublin,  let  b' 


24  GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY. 

proceed  thence  directly  to  Fortrusk,  which  is  the  nearest 
station  to  Tks  Giant  g  Causeway ^  Dunluce  Castle,  etc. 
Tlie  fare  to  Portrush  (1^0  M.)  is  32s.,  23s.  8d.,  14s. 
9d.  The  route  is  by  Mala  hide ;  The  Skerries,  where 
St.  Patrick  is  said  to  hare  taken  shelter  when  he 
was  pursued  by  the  Druids;  Balbriggan,  famous  for 
lis  stocking  factories ;  Drogheda ;  Vundalk,  where 
Edwai-d  Bruce  was  crowned  King  of  Ireland  ;  Porta- 
down  Junction  ;  Lurgan,  a  flourishing  town  engaged  in 
Jinen  manufactories;  Belfast;  Antrim,  not  far  from 
Lough  Keagh ;  and  Coleraine,  long  noted  for  the  fine- 
ness of  its  linens. 

Portraah  (Northern  Counties  Bailtoay  ;  OfSbome^s; 
Leek*s;  Portrush)!^  a  pleasant  watering-place.  The 
Causeway  may  be  reached  by  the  electric  tramway 
passing  through  Bushmills,  of  by  jaunting-car.  On 
the  way  the  touiist  passes  Danlaoe  Castle,  unques- 
tionably one  of  the  most  picturesque  ruins  in  Europe. 
It  is  8  M.  from  Portrush,  on  an  insulated  rock  about 
100  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  surface  of  the  rock  is  en- 
tirely covered  by  the  ruins  of  what  must  have  been  an 
impregnable  stronghold.  A  single  wall,  not  more  than 
18  inches  broad,  connects  tlie  castle  with  the  mainland. 
Sea  view  very  fine  here.  Fee,  6d.  to  Is.,  according  to 
size  of  party.  * '  The  White  Rocks, "  in  w hich  there  are 
many  fantastic  caverns,  are  not  far  from  Dunluce. 

The  GKanf a  Causeway.  —  On  arriving  engage 
guide  at  the  Causeway  Hotel.  The  basaltic  rocks  are 
abundant  along  the  coast  here,  but  the  most  interesting 
formations  occur  between  Portcoon  Cave,  on  the  W., 
and  Dunseverick  Castle,  on  the  E.  If  the  tourist  has 
time,  lie  should  take  the  circuit  first  in  a  boat,  and  then 
visit  the  more  important  of  the  curiosities  by  land. 
See  the  Causeways,  Little,  Middle,  and  Great;  the 
Giant's  Gateway  ;  Giant's  Organ ;  Chimney  Tops ;  the 


IBELAND.  25 

Priest  and  his  Flock ;  the  Fleaskin  ;  and  the  Hen  and 
Chickens.  There  is  a  route  from  the  Giant's  Causeway 
to  Belfast  by  the  coast  road,  recommended  only  to  those 
in  no  hurry.  A  whole  day  must  be  given  to  the  trip 
from  Portrnsh  to  the  Causeway  and  return. 

Londonderry  (Jury's  Hotel;  Imperial ;  Commer- 
cial ;  City  ;  Northern)  is  on  the  river  Foyle.  Memormb 
of  the  historic  "  Siege  of  Derry ' '  are  nu merous.  Ascend 
the  tower  of  the  Cathedral  The  old  walls  of  the  town 
are  still  preserved  as  a  promenade.  From  London- 
derry to  Portrush  it  is  2  hi-s.  by  rail  (7s.  6d.,  5s.  6d., 
3s.  8d.) ;  firom  Portrnsh  to  Belfast  it  is  3-4  hrs.  (12s., 
8s^58.  4d.). 

Belfant  (Imperial ;  Prince  of  Wales;  Boffol)  wiW  re- 
mind American  visitors  of  some  of  our  own  thriving 
manufacturing  towns ;  and  the  contrast  between  its 
smartness  and  vivacity  and  the  dulness  and  languor  of 
cities  in  the  South  of  Ireland  will  be  remarked  at  once. 
In  40  years  the  population  has  increased  from  87,000 
to  260,000.  Two-thirds  of  the  inhabitants  are  Protes- 
tants. The  town  stands  on  the  property  of  the  Mar- 
quis of  Donegal ;  and  it  is  said  that  out  for  long  leases 
§  ranted  by  the  former  proprietor,  the  income  of  that  no- 
leraan  from  the  town  alone  would  amount  to  ;£300,000 
Belfast  is  situated  on  the  Lagan,  near  the  elongated 
bay  known  as  Belfast  Louffh.  The  |)ort  is  130  M. 
from  Glasgow,  and  156  M.  from  Liverpool.  The 
Irish  name  of  the  town  signifies  'Hhe  month  of  the 
ford.''  The  new  docks  are  very  fine.  On  the  Queen's 
Island  is  an  iron  shipbuilding  yard,  employing  nearly 
2,000  hands.  The  White  Star  steamships  are  built 
there.  Buildings  to  notice:  Presbyterian  Ch.,  Bose- 
mary-St. ;  Royal  Academical  Institution  and  Govern^ 
ment  School  of  Art ;  Commercial  Buildings;  Ulster 
Bank;  Belfast  Bank ;  Custom  House,   High-St.,   a' 


26  BELFAST. 

Albert  Square;  the  Harbor  Office;  the  Linen  Hall, 
with  the  Belfast  Library  ;  Queen's  College,  reached  by 
the  Botanic  Rx)ad;  Presbyterian  College,  University 
Square ;  Methodist  College.  Other  things  to  see  :  Bo- 
tanic Gardens,  the  Cooke  statue,  Belfast  Museum,  and 
The  Flax  Mills  and  Linen  Warehouses.  Visitors  are 
readily  admitted  to  most  of  the  mills. 

Excursions  from  Belfast.  —  To  Cave  Hill;  to  the 
Giant's  Ring  ;  to  Dundalk  ;  to  Bangor,  the  chief  water- 
ing-place for  the  inhabitants  of  Belfast ;  and  to  Lord 
Pufferin's  estate  of  Clandeboye,  9  M.  from  the  city. 

The  traveller  now  has  his  choice  of  various  routes 
for  leaving  Ireland.  If  he  desires  to  go  direct  from 
Belfast  to  Greenock  or  Glasgow,  he  can  do  so  by  the 
Royal  Mail  Steamship  Line,  daily  service  (Sun.  ex- 
cepted) ;  time,  8  hrs.;  fare,  I2s.  6d.  The  routes  bv  sea 
from  Belfast  to  Liverpool  and  to  London  can  only  be 
recommended  to  those  who  have  a  passion  for  sea 
travel.  Fare  to  Liverpool,  128.  6d.;  to  London,  25s. 
A  boat  leaves  Belfast  every  evening  (Srn.  excepted), 
at  7.45,  for  Barrow-in-Furness ;  fare,  12s.  6d.  Through 
tickets  to  London  (45s.  6d.  or  21s.  3d.,  by  the  Mid- 
land Rly.,  1st  and  3d  class  only)  are  also  sold,  by  this 
Barrow  route,  from  various  jjoints  along  which  the 
English  Lake  Region  may  be  visited. 

Ireland  covers  32,393  square  M.,  a  little  less  than 
Maine,  South  Carolina,  and  Indiana ;  and  has  upwards 
of  5,000,000  inhab.,  |  of  whom  are  Roman  Catholics. 
It  was  Christianized  by  St.  Patrick,  in  432.  Perpetual 
civil  wars  raged  from  the  8th  to  the  12th  century,  la 
1172  Eusland  conquered  much  of  Ireland,  and  discoa* 
tent  has  been  chronic  ever  since. 


NORTH  WALES.  2T 


NORTH  ^WALES. 

TTOL7HBAD  (iV.  of  Wales)  affords  a  picturesque 
^-^  introduction  to  some  of  the  most  romantic  por- 
tions of  Wales.  Those  not  obliged  to  proceed  at  once 
to  Chester,  Liverpool,  or  London,  can  spend  2-^ 
days  with  pleasure  and  profit  at  points  along  the  line. 
Holj^head  stands  on  Holy  Island,  divided  by  a  small 
strait  from  Anglesea,  and  takes  its  name  from  a  mon- 
astery founded  in  the  6th  century.  Good  view  from 
the  hill  of  the  rocky  shores,  the  harbor  of  refuge,  and 
the  massive  breakwater.  The  promontorjr  of  the 
head  is  hollowed  by  the  ocean  into  caverns,  which  afford 
shelter  to  myriads  of  seafowl.  There  are  important  Ro- 
man remains  here.  The  Cb.  was  erected  in  Edward 
III.'s  time.  The  neighboring  island  of  Angleaea,  rich 
in  minerals,  was  a  principal  seat  of  Druidical  super- 
stition. It  was  conquerea  with  the  rest  of  Wales  by 
Edward  I.  The  Britannia  Tubular  Bridge^  one  of  the 
wonders  of  Great  Britain,  is  crossed  about  21  M.  from 
Holyhead.  This,  as  well  as  the  Menai  Bridge,  may  be 
visited  from  Bangor.  Engineers  will  be  interested  in 
the  Conway  and  Britannia  bridges,  and  in  noting  how 
the  idea  that  budded  in  the  first  structure  has  fully 
blossomed  in  the  later  and  larger  one.  See  Smiles's. 
"  Lives  of  the  Engineers  "  for  a  description  of  the  nian- 
Xier  in  which  the  two  Stephensons  worked  out  their 
thought;  how  "the  great  originator  of  the  railway 
system  watched  with  pleased  attention  the  processes 
by  which  the  son  made  quite  certain  of  each  step."^ 
"nie  vast  tubes  were  not  placed  where  they  now  rest 
without  enormous  painstaking  and  trouble.  One  of 
the  spans  is  472  ft.  in  length,  and,  as  it  is  composed 


28  BANGOR. 

entirely  of  iron,  expands  and  contracts  with  the  changes 
of  temperature.  To  meet  the  dijficulty,  the  ends  of 
the  tubes  reat  on  movable  rollers^  ana  thus  maintain 
the  line  of  rail  perfect.  The  Britannia  Bridge*  is 
more  than  100  ft.  above  the  water-level.  Tke  Menai 
Suspension  Bridge,  1  M.  nearer  Bangor,  is  also  a  Stu- 
pendous work.  Its  greatest  span  from  point  to  point 
IS  560  fk.,  and  its  elevation  above  the  water-way  at 
the  highest  tide  is  100  ft.  It  is  the  loneest  suspension 
bridge  in  England  or  Wales.  It  was  ouilt  in  the  old 
coaching  days,  in  the  early  part  of  the  century.  After 
crossing  this  bridge,  you  have  left  the  island  of  An- 
glesea  and  are  on  the  mainland. 

Bangor  (George  Hotel ;  British  ;  WiUiams*  Temper- 
ance ;  Oastlf)  lies  in  a  valley  between  two  great  rocky 
ridges.  On  the  N.  is  the  pretty  bay  of  Beaumaris.  See 
CaSiedral,  with  monuments  of  numerous  Welsh  prin- 
ces; the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of  Bangor,  and  charitable 
institutions;  and  walk  to  the  Menai  Bridge.  Mt. 
scenery  fine.  The  cathedral  was  built  in  the  6th 
century,  destroyed  by  the  Anglo-Normans  in  the  11th, 
rebuilt  in  the  12th,  and  burned  by  Owen  Gwyndwr  in 
1402.  The  present  structure  dates  from  the  16th  cen- 
tury, and  is  a  massive  construction,  with  a  tower  of 
moderate  heiglit.  Bangor  is  in  the  oldest  diocese  in 
Wales.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  slate  quarry  of  immense 
extent,  in  which  as  many  as  2,000  persons  are  at  times 

1  The  Tubular  Bridge  cost  £620,000.  It  is  1,500  ft.  in 
length,  and  raised  sufficiently  high  to  allow  ships  with  high- 
est masts  to  pass  heneath  it.  It  consists  of  a  wrought-iron 
tube  made  of  plates  riveted  together,  1,513  ft.  long.  1,800 
men  were  employed  for  4  years  on  its  construction.  The 
tub«»  wer«  first  riveted  together,  floated  out  on  pontoons, 
and  then  raised  into  their  places  by  hydraulic  pressure.  The 
whole  weight  is  over  10.000  tons. 


NORTH  WALES.  29 

emj)loy«d.    Sec  the  castle  of  Lord  Pcnrhyn,  in  whose 
family  the  quarries  are  owned.     70,000  tons  of  slate 
,  are  yearly  snipped  from  Port  Fenrhyn. 

The  riy .  now  skirts  the  sliore  of  BeaumarU  Bay ; 
passes  through  Penmaenmaicr,  near  which  is  a  mt.  of 
the  same  name,  1,540  ft.  high ;  through  the  Penbach 
Tunnel;  and, Just  before  reacjhiug  Conway,  traverses 
the  Conway  Tubular  Bridge,  erected  by  Stephenson 
in  1S48.  It  consists  of  two  hollow  rectangular  tubes 
of  wrought-iron  plates,  for  the  up  and  down  trains, 
each  measuring  400  ft.  and  weighing  1140  tons. 
Conway  (Castle  Hotel)  has  a  castle  which  entitles 
it  to  the  American  pilgrim's  earnest  attention.  This 
superb  ruin  is  situated  on  a  rock,  guarded  on  two 
sides  by  the  Conway  River.  It  was  built  by  Edward  I. 
During  the  civil  wars  this  oblong  fortress,  flanked  by 
eight  embattled  towers,  was  garrisoned  for  the  King. 
But  the  Parliamentary  army  took  it.  Charles  II.  ^ave 
it  to  the  Earl  of  Conway,  who  stripped  off  the  preci6us 
stores  of  timber,  iron,  and  lead.  It  now  belongs  to  the 
Marquis  of  Heii;ford.  The  massive  walls  of  the  town, 
with  their  towers  and  gateways,  are  still  in  good  condi- 
tion. Among  the  odd  old  houses  in  Conway  is  one 
erected  in  1577  by  Robert  Wynne,  which  is  worth  a 
visit.  In  the  Ch.  there  are  several  monuments  to 
members  of  tlie  Wynne  family.  See  The  College  in 
Oastle-St.,  now  inhabited  by  poor  families.  On  the 
8.  E.  side  of  Great  Orme's  Head,  4  M.  by  rail  from 
Conway,  is  the  fashionable  watering-place  of  Ltan- 
dudnb. 

Tourista  who  have  a  few  days  to  spend  in  North 
Wales  can  make  a  variety  of  interesting  excursions 
from  Bangor  or  Conway.  From  the  former  point  Uiey 
may  visit  Caernarvon  (Hotel :  Royal  Sportsman),  an 
aucient  town,  situated  partly  on  the  Menai  Strait  and^ 


So  CAERNARVON.  —  SNOWDON. 

partly  on  the  estuary  of  the  Seiont.  •  Caernarvon's  cJiiet 
object  of  interest  is  the  castle  erected  by  Edward  I, 
There  Edward  IL,  the  first  English  Prince  of  Wales 
was  bom.  The  external  walls  of  the  castle  are  nearly 
10.  ft.  thick.'  Near  the  Seiont  formerly  stood  a  strong 
fort,  long  a  residence  of  the  British  princes.  The  view 
from  the  Ba^le  Tower  is  remarkably  good.  See  the 
Terrace,  outside  the  town  walls,  also  Druidical  circles 
in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  not  quite  9  M.  by  rail  from 
Bangor  to  Caernarvon,  and  in  good  weather  a  tramp 
along  the  h^hway  between  the  two  towns  will  be  found 
enjoyable.  From  Caernarvon  the  Snowdonian  region  is 
easy  of  access.  Ex)man  ruins  abound  in  the  vicinity ; 
see  site  of  the  Roman  station  of  Segontium.  lAanberis, 
from  which  point  Snowdon  (3,571  ft.  high)  may  be 

^  Caemarvou  Castle,  says  an  historian,  is  a  "  stupendoas 
iDonament  of  ancient  grandeur."  It  occupies  the  whole  W. 
end  of  the  town.  Some  years  ago  it  seemed  as  if  fast  going 
to  ruin ;  its  ivy -clad  walls  appeared  to  be  yielding  to  the 
ravages  of  time,  yet  withal  retaining  a  romantic  singularity 
of  their  own ;  and  in  1828  the  Eagle  Tower —  tbe  largest  of 
all  —  was  struck  by  lightning,  which  cracked  the  walls  sev- 
eral yards,  and  displaced  large  masses  of  stone.  But  great 
pains  have  since  been  taken  to  restore  the  fabric}  and  it 
stands  before  us  to-day  a  grand  and  beautiful  structure.  On 
two  sides  it  is  washed  by  the  sea,  on  the  third  it  was  of  yore 
protected  by  a  ditch,  and  on  the  fourth  it  was  shut  in  by 
the  town.  Caernarvon  is  probably  only  about  \  M^  fhrni 
the  site  of  SegotUiuMy  the  principal  Roman  station  in  North 
Wales.  The  castle  became  the  headquarters  of  the  English 
after  the  Conquest  by  Edward,  and  here  he  had  the  treasury 
for  the  taxes  exacted  from  his  Welsh  subjects.  The  Eagle 
Tower  —  so  named  from  the  figure  of  the  bird  standing  oA 
ike  summit — occupies  one  end  of  the  oblong  court,  and  baa 
three  turrets  rising  from  it. 


NORTH  WALES.  31 

ascended,  is  reached  hj  rail  from  Caernarvon.  Llanberis 
and  Nant  Ffrancon  are  two  of  the  finest  passes  in 
Wales,  and  the  latter  is  especially  beautiful.  The  road 
through  it  winds  under  frowning  precipices ;  and  Lake 
Ogwen's  inky-black  water  breaks  through  a  chasm 
in  the  rock  into  numerous  cascades,  some  of  them  100 
ft.  high,  that  find  their  way  into  the  rich  vale  extending 
N,  to  Bethesda  and  Bangor.  A  good  trip  would  be. 
from  Bangor  to  Caernarvon ;  thence  to  Llanberis  and 
through  the  Pass  to  Capel  Curig ;  thence  to  Bettws- 
y-Coed,  the  "  Station  in  the  Wood,"  a  delicious  sylvan 
retreat,  where  Coe  painted  some  of  his  most  beautiful 
pictures.     Near  by  are  the  Falls  of  the  Conway. 

E/eturning  to  the  main  line,  the  tourist  will  find  but 
two  or  three  other  points  worthy  notice  between  Con- 
way and  Chester.  Abergele  (Bee  Hotel)  is  near 
Cave  Hill,  where  there  is  a  fine  natural  cavern ;  and 
the  mt.-pass  in  which  the  Welsh  defeated  Harold 
and,  later  on,  massacred  the  troops  of  Henry  II.  Mrs. 
Hemans  lived  for  many  years  at  Abergele.  In  186S  a 
frightful  rly.  accident,  by  which  33  persons  were  burned 
to  death,  occurred  near  this  stat.  Rhyl  {^eew> 
Hotel ;  Belvoir)  is  a  pretty  watering-place.  A  branch 
rly.  runs  thence  to  the  little  Welsh  cathedral-town  of 
St.  Asaph ;  and  to  Denbigh,  a  venerable  hill-town 
with  many  very  auaint  old  houses,  and  a  stately  ruined 
castle,  on  the  hill.  At  Holywell  the  famous  St.  Wini- 
fred's Well  is  to  be  seen.  Flint  Castle^  on  a  rock  by 
the  sea,  was  once  the  prison  of  Richard  II.  13  M. 
beyond  the  train  crosses  the  Bee,  leaving  Wales. 


32  CHESTER. 


ENGLAND. 

CHBSTBR  {Orosvenor  Hotel ;  Queen* 8,  at  the  rly. 
Stat.;  Blossom's;  and  others  more  or  less  good). 
The  curious  features  of  this  delightful  town  may  be 
seen  in  a  single  day  (or,  with  the  aid  of  a  carriage,  in 
3-4  hrs.).  The  traveller  who  has  not  already  made  up 
liis  mind  should  here  decide  whether  he  will  go  directly 
to  London,  or  N.  to  the  English  I^akes,  and  thence  to 
Scotland.  To  those  who  contemplate  making  an  ex- 
tensive tour  on  the  Continent,  and  returning  to  the 
British  Islands  only  late  in  September  or  October,  we 
would  recommend  a  trip  from  Chester,  to  Liverpool, 
and  thence,  after  having  seen  tlie  eights  in  that  city  and 
in  Chester  and  vicinity,  direct  to  the  English  Lakes  and 
Scotch  mts.  But  many  persons  will  probably  like  to 
go  to  London  and  the  Continent  at  once,  for  a  season, 
returning  N.  in  August  and  resuming  our  English  and 
Scotch  itinerary  from  Chester  or  Liverpool. 

Ancient  Chester,  on  its  pretty  eminence,  is  suffi- 
ciently quaint  and  filled  with  ruins  to  satisfy  the  most 
curious  of  Transatlantic  travellers.  Some  kind  of  town 
existed  on  this  site  before  the  Roman  invasion,  but  it 
was  the  Romans  who  made  the  definite  foundation. 
They  chose  this  place  as  one  of  their  principal  military 
stations,  called  it  the  "  City  of  the  Legions,"  and  made 
it  the  castra  of  the  Twentieth  Legion.  Vast  walls  still 
occupy  the  same  ground  and  carry  oiit  the  identical  plan 
chosen  and  arranged  by  the  Roman  leaders.  Chester 
was  laid  waste  in  the  early  part  of  the  7th  century  by 
jEthelfrith,  King  of  the  Northumbrians :  and  then  the 
memorials  of  the  Roman  sojourn  were  greatly  injured. 
Jor  nearly  three  centuries  Chester  lay  in  rains.     In 


ENGLAND.  33 

907  Alfred  the  Great's  daughter,  Ethelfieda,  restored 
the  rained  wails  which  the  Danes  had  from  time  to 
time  used  as  temporary  strongholds;  and  from  that 
day  Chester  became  important  in  English  history.  It 
was  the  Tery  last  city  to  hold  out  against  William  the 
Conqueror;  and  a  nephew  of  the  great  Noraum  wa» 
made  Earl  of  Chester,  and  built  a  castle  there.  Ches- 
ter was  especially  prominent  in  the  Civil  War  as  the 
first  city  to  declare  for  Charles,  and  the  last  to  yield  to 
\he  Parliamentary  forces. 

A  Walk  around  the  Old  "Walls  may  be  begun  at 
East  Gate,  near  the  Grosvenor  or  Blossom's  Hotel. 
Going  N.  one  comes  first  to  the  Cathedral  (described 
below).  Next  beyond  it,  at  the  angle  of  the  walls 
wlicre  ihey  turn  W .  to  the  North  GatSy  is  the  Fhmnix 
Tower y  on  which  Charles  I.  stood,  during  the  battle  o^ 
BowtOQ  Hoor  and  gazed  on  the  defeat  of  his 
army,  Sept  24, 1645.  See  inscription.  Under  the 
walls  at  this  point  is  the  Shropshire  Union  Canal,  cut 
in  the  soUd  rock.  Moving  on  towards  the  North 
Gate,  the  original  Roman  walls,  terminating  in  a  cor- 
nice 6  ft.  below  the  parapet,  may  be  seen.  From  this 
gate  there  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  Welsh  mts.  and 
of  Waverton  and  Christleton  chs.  Just  outside  the 
gate  is  £n  ancient  Blue  Coat  Hospital.  A  httle  far- 
ther on,  from  a  s()uare  building  on  the  r.  side  of  the 
wall,  there  is  a  view  of  the  nver  and  the  sea,  Flint 
Castle,  the  Training  College,  etc.  Another  tower, 
once  known  as  the  Goblin's,  but  now  called  Pember- 
ton's  Parior,  comes  next.  It  beais  a  mutilated  inscrip- 
tion about  the  "glorious  reign  of  Anne."  The  Water 
Tower,  u  its  name  indicates,  was  once  closely  ap- 
proached by  ships ;  but  the  river  is  now  a  long  way 
from  the  walls.  This  part  of  the  fortifications  was 
bombarded  by  Cromwell  in  1645.    Within  the  towei 


34  CHESTER. 

is  a  museum  ;  on  its  summit,  a  telescope.  See  railway 
viaduct  and  iron  bridge  over  the  Dee,  near  this  point. 
The  City  Jail  is  an  imposing  structure.  From  the 
Water  Gate  note  the  Rhoodee  race-course,  and  beyond 
the  river  the  fine  villas  of  Curzon  Park.  Qrosveaor 
Bridge,  whieh  spans  the  stream,  has  a  span  of  300  ft. 
Over  the  river,  m  Edgar's  Field,  is  a  statue  of  Pallas. 
The  Castle,  next  approached,  is  a  noble  pile,  erected  in 
the  last  century  on  tne  site  of  the  ancient  one.  *'  Ciesar's 
Tower  "  is  the  onl  v  remnant  of  the  old  structure.  See 
near  the  Castle  the  Cofiidermere  Monument  and  the 
JSkire  Hall,  Drill  in  the  Castle  yard  afternoons. 
Walk  on  over  the  Bridae  Gate,  rebuilt  in  1783,  to 
New  Gate  (1608),  and  thence  to  East  Gate.  Outside 
the  walls,  between  Bridge  and  East  Gates,  is  Ihe  Ch; 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  founded  in  6S9,  and  rebuilt 
in  1574. 

*  The  Cathedral  was  begun  in  the  13th  century, 
and  the  choir  and  central  tower  were  finished  in  tfie 
early  years  of  the  13th.  The  lady  chapel,  refectory, 
and  chapter-house  are  said  to  have  been  comtructed 
1300^1230.  Many  portions  were  greatly  altered  in 
the  period  between  1485  and  1537.  The  ch.  is  almost 
entirely  built  of  red  sandstone,  plentiful  in  the  district. 
The  restorations  carried  on  for  several  yeirs  past 
have  proved  highly  successful.  Tlie  E.  portion  is  an 
excellent  example  of  Early  English  stvle.  Th«  choir  is 
beautiful :  note  the  Gothic  work  at  the  sides ;  also  the 
richly  carven  Gothic  screen  of  stone,  which  separates 
the  nave  from  the  choir ;  the  bishop's  throne,  formed 
by  the  shrine  of  St.  Werburgh  of  miraculous  mem- 
ory ;  and  the  black  and  white  marble  pavement  in  the 
choir.  The  W.  front,  though  unfinished,  is  ihe  best. 
The  led»r*s  pulpit  in  the  refectory ;  the  colois  of  the 
23d  Cheshire  regiment,  carried  at  Bunker  Hill,  in  the 


ENGLAND.  35 

cUapter-house;  and  the  great  W.  window  of  the  nave, 
should  be  remarked.  The  stained-^hiss  windows  are 
modern.  The  cathedral's  interior  is  not  so  imposing 
as  its  exterior.  Tradition  says  that  u  Roman  temple  to 
Apollo  once  stood  on  the  site.  The  foundation  of  two 
towers,  never  completed,  was  laid  in  1508.  Tbe  Roinra, 
covered  avenues  or  galleries  through  the  fronts  of  the 
second  stories  of  the  houses  in  Eastgate,  Watergate, 
Northgate,  and  Bridge  Sts.  (the  old  Bioman  ways),  are 
one  of  the  most  stnking  features  of  Chester.^  Old 
House*,  remarkable  for  their  curious  carvings  and  for 
historical  associations,  are  very  numerous  in  Chester. 
Note  the  palace  of  the  Earls  of  Derby,  near  the  Water 
Gate ;  atid  on  Lower  Bridge-St.,  leading  from  Bridge 
Gate,  the  house  in  which  Charles  I.  resided  during  the 
siege.  A  Roman  sweating-bath  may  be  seen  in  one  of 
the  houses  of  the  Bridge-St.  Rx)w.  There  are  several 
Roman  crypts,  a  thousand  years  old,  beneath  the  an- 
cient buildings. 

Eaton  Hall,  one  of  the  country-seats  of  the  Duke 
of  Westminster,  is  3  M.  from  Chester.  Tickets  of  ad- 
mission to  the  grounds  and  mansion  may  be  had  for 

I  Pennant  says :  "  These  Hows  appear  to  me  to  have  been 
the  same  with  the  ancient  vestibules,  and  could  have  been  a 
form  of  building  preserved  from  the  time  that  the  city  was 
possessed  by  the  Romans.  They  were  the  places  where  de- 
I>endants  watched  for  the  coming  out  of  their  patrons,  and  in 
which  they  might  walk  away  the  tedious  minutes  of  expecta- 
tion.  Flautus,  in  the  third  act  of  his  Mosteliaria,  describes 
both  their  station  and  use.  The  shops  beneath  the  Rows 
were  the  cryptse  and  apothecse,  magazines  for  the  various 
uecessaries  of  the  owners  of  the  houses."  Many  of  the  Rows 
to-day  form  two  terraces,  the  shops  one  above  the  other, 
the  galleries  being  i*eached  by  flights  of  steps  at  convenient 
distances. 


36  LIVEKPOOL. 

a  small  sum  at  the  Grosvenor  Hotel  and  of  the  news- 
dealers. The  house  is  au  elaborate  structure,  with  a 
^reat  number  of  pinnacles  and  turrets,  and  is  460  ft. 
long.  The  walk  thither,  over  Grosvenor  Bridge  and 
through  the  Park,  entering  by  a  gateway  copied  from 
the  Abbey  Gate  at  Cant^erbury,  is  very  interesting. 
The  marble  floor  in  the  entry  alone  cost  1,600  guineas. 
There  are  a  few  noticeable  paintings  at  Eaton  Hall. 

Liverpool. 

From  Chester  impoiiant  lines  of  railway  radiate  in 
all  directions.  The  traveller  may  proceei  to  Liver- 
pool, via  Runcorn,  crossing  the  celebrated  Rnncom 
Bridge  ^  and  its  viaducts,  and  amviug  at  the  Lime-St. 
terminus  of  the  London  and  Northwestern  Railway 
(fare,  3s. ;  time,  a  little  more  tlian  half  an  hour) ;  or 
he  may  go  from  Chester  to  Birkenhead,  and  cross  from 
this  latter  place  to  Liverpool  by  ferry  (time  and  fare 
about  tlie  same,  but  scenery  uninteresting) ;  or  he  may 
walk  through  Eastham,  Bebington,  etc.,  to  Rock 
Ferry,  and  there  cross  to  Liverpool.  We  recommend 
the  walk  to  Chester  fram  Liverpool  for  those  who  have 
made  their  first  entry  into  Europe  at  the  great  seaport. 
If  Liverpool  has  somewhat  sliocked  their  eestnetic 
sense,  ana  disappointed  their  expectations  of  romance 
in  Europe,  Chester  will  re-establish  tlieir  enthusiasm. 

1  The  entire  length  of  this  structure  is  2^  M.  The 
bridge  is  approached  upon  the  Kuncorn  Viaduct,  carried  by 
S3  arches,  I  of  23  ft.  span,  29  of  40  ft.  span,  and  3  of  61 
ft.  span.  The  viaduct  is  earned  over  the  river  Mersey  at  # 
height  of  80  ft.  by  3  girders  of  305  ft.  span,  each  supported 
upon  4  castellated  piers,  stretching  over  a  distance  of  271 
chains.  The  total  cost  of  the  structure  was  £422,400,  of 
which  £41,800  was  paid  for  land. 


ENGLAND.  3T 

Liverpool  Olotels:  Adelphi;  N&rthvx&eem  Rail- 
way; Grand;  Washington;  Imperial;  Waterloo, - 
Americans  will  find  the  Adelphi,  North westerp,  and 
Grand  best  suited  for  them)  is  the  port  at  which  most 
tourists  from  the  United  States  first  land.  It  is  a 
cit}r  of  over  650,000  inhab.,  the  second  seaport  in  the- 
United  Kingdom,  and  possesses  the  finest  docks  in 
the  world.  See  the  *'  Chapter  for  TraTellers "  for  in- 
structions as  to  Landing  at  Liverpool,  Liveipool  is: 
essentially  a  modern  town.  In  1561  it  was  a  hamlet ; 
in  1644  Prince  Rupert  called  it  •*  a  crow's  nest " ;  but 
in  1871  it  numbered  half  a  million.  Liverpoors  im- 
portance dates  from  the  upspringing  of  the  cottoa 
manufacture  in  England.  There  have  been  years  in 
which  the  value  of  its  exports  has  been  twice  as  great, 
as  that  of  the  exjjorts  from  London ;  80,000  seamen 
constantly  throng  its  quays.  Its  public  buildings  are: 
as  new  as  those  of  American  cities.  There  \»  scarcely 
one  older  than  the  present  century.' 


^  "  Liverpool  is  not  even  mentioned  in  the  list  of  towns  ia 
the  DoomsdajT  Book  of  the  Nonnan  invaders.  It  is  spokeu 
of  for  the  first  time  in  1172,  when  Henry  II.  made  the  con- 
quest of  Ireland,  and  embarked  his  ships  in  the  Mersey. 
Towards  1700  its  population  was  hardly  5,000.  The  block- 
up  of  the  Bee  at  Chester  profited  Liverpool ;  and  its  mer- 
chants began  to  get  rich,  above  all  in  the  slave  trade.  As. 
the  painter  Fnseli  said,  when  he  was  asked  to  admire  the: 
great  streets,  *  the  blood  of  the  negix>es  8eem»  t»  have  fil- 
tered tkroQgh  these  carven  stones.'  The  city  occvqiiea  th& 
geographical  centre  between  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  It 
is  the  only  point  of  convergence  for  domestic  exchange  be^ 
tween  the  British  Islands.    This  central  position,  is  also 


38  LIVERPOOL. 

The  JDocks,  some  parts  of  which  may  be  seen 
from  the  steamers  ascending  the  Mersev,  deserve  a 
carefol  visit.  Liverpool  lies  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
river  Mersey ;  opposite  it  is  the  important  town  of 
Birkenhead;  and  the  "silent  highway"  between  is 
thronged  with  ships  from  every  part  of  the  globe. 
The  dock  system  wliich  lines  the  Mersey  begins  at  the 
Hereulaneum  Graving  Dock,  at  the  extreme  8.  end  of 
the  town.  From  the  S.  point  of  this  to  the  N.  part  of 
the  Hornby  Dock,  the  other  end  of  the  system,  is  a 
distance  of  6  M.  All  the  intervening  space  is  filled 
with  docks  and  auays,  two  and  sometimes  three  deep. 
The  Canning,  Saithonse,  George's,  King's,  Queen's,  and 
Brunswick  Docks,  and  the  Queen's  and  Prince's  Half- 
Tide  Basins,  were  constructed  between  1717  and  1816. 
In  the  King's  Dock  and  warehouses  are  stored  and 
bonded  immense  quantities  of  leaf  tobacco  and  cigars. 
Railways  communicate  by  tunnels  directly  with  the 
<iock  system.  The  total  quay  space  of  the  Liverpool 
docks  a  year  or  two  ago  was  17  M.;  of  the  basins,  8  M.; 
and  tlie  total  water  area  of  the  docks,  277  acres.  The 
Princess  Landing  Stagey  at  which  passenffcrs  from  and 
to  America  disembark  and  depart,  is  a  noble  work.  It 
is  said  that  nearly  \  of  the  trade  of  tlie  port  is  with  the 
United  States.  The  town  possesses  ^  of  the  shipping 
of  Great  Britain,  |  of  the  foreign  trade,  \  of  the  gen- 
eral commerce,  and  more  than  \  as  much  trade  as  the 
port  of  London.     In  1867  the  customs  dues  amounted 

advantage  for  foreign  commerce,  which  has  chosen  Liverpool 
for  its  de]x>t.  Farther  than  Bristol  from  the  high  sea,  which 
is  the  road  to  America,  Africa,  and  the  Indies,  Livei|)ool 
overcomes  this  inferiority  by  the  advantage  which  she  has  in 
heing  close  to  the  border  of  a  coal  basin,  which  has  become 
the  prinelpal  seat  of  all  the  manufactures  of  the  entirs 
world."     {Elk^Recius^ 


ENGLAND.  3^ 

io  £3,620,409,  and  the  cotton  imported  to  ^,250,500 
bales. 

St.  George's  Hall  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
objects  in  Liverpool.  It  is  a  vast  and  imposing  struc- 
ture, completed  in  1851,  and  contains  •  the  Assize 
Courts,  an  immense  hall  for  public  meetings,  and  a 
concert  room.  The  portico  on  the  S.  is  very  fine.  It 
surmounts  a  pedestal  of  noble  steps,  150  ft.  wide,  ter- 
minating in  a  pediment,  the  tympanum  of  which  is 
enriched  by  sculptures  representing  Britannia  offering: 
the  olive  branch,  with  the  lion  at  her  side  and  the 
Mersey  flowing  at  her  feet.  Mercury  is  represented 
as  leading  to  her  from  the  other  side  Asia,  Europe, 
Africa,  and  America.  In  the  ^reat  hall  is  one  of  the 
largest  organs  in  the  world,  with  108  stops  and  8,000 
pipes.  See  the  bronze  doors  which  lead  to  the  Crown 
Court.  In  front  of  St.  George's  Hall  are  statues  of 
the  Prince  Consort  and  ^ueen  Victoria.  Four  stone 
lions  guard  the  principal  entrance  to  the  areOr 
between  the  hall  and  Lime-St.  Not  far  away  is  the 
jilexandra  Theatre.  The  Wellington  Mommentf  cast 
from  cannon  taken  at  Waterloo,  is  also  near  St.  George's> 
Hall.  A  little  to  the  N.  is  BrowrCs  Free  Public  Library 
and  Museum,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  late  Sir  William 
Brown.     Near  by  is  the  Walker  Art  Gallery. 

The  Municipal  Offices,  in  Dale-St. ;  the  Town  Hall ; 
tlie  Exchange,  which  covers  two  acres,  in  the  commer- 
cial quarter,  are  handsome, edifices.  On  tiie  Exchange 
Flags,  where  the  merchants  meet,  stands  a  bronze 
statue  of  Nelson,  by  Westmacott.  St.  John's  Market^ 
a  vast  structure,  is  on  Great  Charlotte-St.  The  Cus- 
tom House  and  Post-Office,  at  the  junction  of  8trand-St. 
and  Wapping,  has  beneath  it  extensive  vaults  for  the 
storing  of  goods  in  bond.  See  the  Sailors^  Homer 
close  by. 


40  LIVERPOOL. 

OthMT  Ol^ecU  of  Interest  in  Liverpool.  —  Tbe 

Botanic  Gardens^  in  Edge  Lane.  The  Com  Exchange, 
on  Brunswick-St.  St.  NicholuB^  CA.,  the  only  real  an- 
tiquity in  Liverpool.  The  original  chapel  was  built  in 
tbe  time  of  William  the  Conqueror.  In  old  times  a 
•statue  of  St.  Nicholas,  patron  of  mariners,  stood  in  the 
yard.  The  ch.  was  restored  in  1774.  The  tower  facing 
the  S.  side  was  erected  as  one  of  a  series  of  '*  signw 
tjteeples."  Princess  and  Stanley  Parks  ;  from  the  latter 
a  good  view  of  the  sea  and  the  Cumberland  hills.  St. 
Jauieis  Cenieteryy  formerly  a  stone  quarry,  and  filled 
for  its  present  purpose  at  an  expense  of  £20,000. 
The  Mausoleum  of  Huskisson  is  here.  Seflon  Park, 
purchased  at  a  cost  of  £450,000  from  the  Earl  of  Sef- 
ton.  Liverpool  has  expended  vast  sums  the  past  few- 
years  on  street  improvements ;  but  the  poor  quarter  is 
still  horribly  unhealthy.  A  walk  through  it  should  be 
undertaken  only  in  the  daylight  hours.  Estates  and 
Itesidences  of  Nobleman  near  Liverpool :  Knowsley 
Hall,  owned  by  the  Earl  of  Derby  (see  the  Stanley 
portraits  there) ;  Croxteth  Hall,  the  Earl  of  Sefton's 
seat ;  Childwall  Abbey,  a  residence  of  the  Marquis  of 
Salisbury.  Excursions  may  be  made  from  Liverpool 
to  New  Brighton^  down  the  river  by  ferry-boat  from 
the  George's  Landing  stage ;  and  to  Eastham,  a  pretty 
pleasure-resort.^ 

*  "  The  cities  crowded  together  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Liverpool  and  Birkenhead  are  very  numerous.  In  an  angle 
of  Cheshire  is  New  Brighton^  a  water-side  pleasure-resort. 
Toxteih  Park  is  a  suburb  situated  near  the  Mersey.  On  the 
N.  and  the  £.  are  Bootle,  Linacre,  Walton -on -the-HUl, 
'West  Derby,  Widnes,  Waverti-ee,  Prescot,  St.  Helens,  Ince, 
«iid  Newton-in-Makerfield.  St.  Helens  has  very  important 
glass  manufactories.  The  basin  of  the  Kibble  contains  a 
veiy  O0usiderable  population.    Round  the  mouths  of  the  mines 


ENGLAND.  41 

Birkanhead  {Queen's  Hotel ;  Woodnde),  an  essen- 
tially modern  town  of  about  85,000  inhab.,  is  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Mersey,  on  the  S.  shore  facing 
Liiverpool.  Constant  communication  by  steam-ferries 
and  the  new  tunnel  under  the  Mersey.  Ship-building 
is  the  main  industry.  The  docks  cover  600  acres. 
Here  are  the  docks  of  the  Messrs.  Laird,  where  the 
Alabama  was  built.  The  Oh.,  which  overlooks  the 
river,  is  part  of  the  old  Priory  of  Byrkhed,  founded 
in  Henry  II. 's  reign. 

rise  groups  of  factories.  The  central  city  of  tbe  basin.  Stack- 
bum,  is  one  of  those  towns  black  with  smoke,  where  steam- 
engines  are  incessantly  roaring.  Clitheroe-on-the*Ribble  is 
ill  the  midst  of  a  chaiming  country.  Between  Blackburn  and 
Liverpool  the  manufacturing  towns  are  cbse  together.  Over- 
Darwen,  Chorley,  Wigan,  Hindley,  are  out  a  stone's  throw 
from  each  other.  Not  far  from  Wigan  is  the  deepest  coal- 
mine in  Great  Britain.  On  the  W.  of  "Wigan  is  the  great 
market  town  of  Onnetkirk,  Preston,  *  proud  Preston,* 
majestically  situated  where  the  Ribble  b^ns  to  broaden,  is 
the  most  populous  city  of  the  whole  basin.  It  is  at  the  same 
time  a  manufacturing  place  of  the  iirst  order,  especially  for 
cottons.  Lancaster  is  to  the  N.,  distant  from  the  centre 
of  population.  It  is  no  longer  a  capital  except  in  name, 
although  it  still  keeps  certain  prerogatives  as  a  ducal  city. 
Built  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  military  station,  it  is  overlooked 
by  a  castle  where  there  were  many  important  ruins.  Lan- 
caster, prominent  in  so  many  events  in  the  civil  wars,  is  now 
a  peaceful  commercial  town,  with  numerous  cotton  factories. 
The  Fleetwood  Railway  unites  it  with  PouUon,  on  Morecambe 
Bay,  a  maritime  summer-resort.  The  town  which  attracts 
most  visitors  is  Blackpool,  situated  N.  of  the  Ribble  estuary, 
on  a  hill  from  whence  the  watei's  of  the  Irish  Sea  can  be 


42      GRANGE.  —  FURNESS  ABBEY. 


The  iBnglish  Lake  District. 

Those  persons  who  desire  to  visit  the  English  Lakes 
and  to  proceed  thence  to  Scotland,  before  going,  as  the 
English  say,  "  up  to  London,"  will  find  Liverpool  their 
best  point  of  departure.  From  Liverpool  to  Winder- 
mere the  distance  is  87i  M.;  and  the  fares,  25s.  6d., 
18s.  3d.,  lis.  6d.  This  route  is  through  Wigan,  Pres- 
ton, and  Lancaster  to  Oxenholme  Junction,  where  a 
good  view  of  Kendal,  the  largest  town  in  Westmore- 
land, is  obtained,  and  from  Oxenholme  by  branch  rail-, 
way  to  Windermere,  whence  excursions  can  be  made 
in  all  directions.  But  we  think  the  American  tourist 
would  find  it  interesting  to  enter  this  beautiful  re- 
gion by  another  route,  as  follows :  Take  ticket  from 
Liverpool  to  Granae  (fares,  21s.  6d.,  15s.  6d.,  10s.). 
You  pass  through  Wigan,  Preston,  and  Lancaster,  and 
a  little  beyond  this  last  place  change  at  Carnforth 
Junction.  The  railway  thence  to  Grange  carries  you 
across  arms  of  Morecambe  Bay,  and  beside  wild 
stretches  of  quicksand,  where  hundreds  of  lives  have 
been  lost.  Grange  {Grange  Hotel,  a  chajming  house 
on  the  slope  of  a  wooiled  hill)  is  called  the  |'  Torquay 
of  the  North."  Its  climate  is  mild,  even  in  winter ;  and 
it  is  a  favorite  fashionable  resort.  Castle  Head,  once  a 
Homan  station,  is  near  by.  From  Grange  an  excursion 
should  be  made  to  Fomess  Abbey,  by  the  railway 
passing  through  XJlverston,  Lindal,  Dalton,  and  other 
points  in  the  rich  Fumess  mining  district,  and  termi- 
nating at  the  important  town  of  Barrow.  (Return 
ticket,  1st  class.  Grange  to  Fumess  Abbey,  5s.)  Tour- 
ists will  be  well  repaid  for  visiting  the  mm,  and  the  ex- 
cursion may  be  made  in  an  aftemoon  by  those  who  have 
left  Liverpool  for  Grange  in  the  morning.    *'  The  Royal 


Abbejr  of  St.  Mary  of  Furness"  was  foundeil  in 
1127,  in  Henry  I.'s  reign,  by  Stephen,  his  successor 
on  the  throne  of  England.  The  monks  of  the. 
Cistercian  order  grew  rapidly  rich  and  powerful. 
The  abbots  of  Furness  were  lords  in  Parlianaenl, 
and  had  their  little  army.  The  ruin  is  now  the 
property  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire.  Admission 
to  the  grounds,  which  are  close  to  the  stat.,  free. 
The  roofless  ch.,  the  lavishly  decorated  chapter- 
house, the  scriptorium,  and  the  refectory  contain 
many  interesting  memorials.  The  £.  window  is 
preserved  in  the  sanctuary  at  Bowness  ;  it  is  a  superb 
specimen  of  mediaeval  glass-painting.  Furness  Abbey 
Hotel  is  near  the  ruins.  Along  the  rly .  lie  beds  of  hem- 
atite iron  ore.  from  which  about  600,000  tons  are  annu- 
ally taken.  From  Ulverston  {i^n;  BraddylVs  Arms), 
the  capital  of  Furness,  a  branch  line  leads  to  Lake 
Side,  on  Windermere  Lake.  One  can  also  go  directly 
from  Furness  Abbey  or  from  Barrow  by  rail  to  the  head 
of  Coniston  Lake.  See  time-tables  of  Northwestern 
and  Midland  Railways,  and  local  guide-books,  for  a 
host  of  details  concerning  round  trips,  circular  tickets, 
etc.  Holker  Hally  a  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Dev- 
onshire, may  be  visited  on  tbie  way  back  from  Fur- 
ness Abbey  to  Grange.  Stop  at  Cark,  and  walk  to 
the  Hall,  1  M.  The  Hall  and  park  are  on  the  Leven, 
flowing  out  of  Lake  Windermere.  Many  charming 
walks  m  this  vicinity,  from  the  weird  Leven  Sands  up 
to  and  through  sweet  and  romantic  Holker  Village,  with 
its  cottages  nestUng  among  rose-trees  and  fuchsias,  and 
on  to  Cartmel  and  its  ancient  Priory.  Holker  Hall 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  paintings,  and  the  park  is 
well  stocked  with  deer.  Levens  Hall  may  be  visited 
from  Grange.    It  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river  Kent. 


44  WINDERMERE. 

T)he  gardens  on  the  estate  were  laid  out  by  Beaumont, 
James  II.'s  famous  gardener.  Returning  to  Grange, 
sleep  there,  and  take  the  coach  next  morning  for  Newby 
Briage  and  Lake  Side  (foot  of  Lake  Windermere)  at 
-about  10  o'clock.  This  8  M.  drive  is  delightful.  At 
Newby  Bridge  the  time-honored  and  picturesque  Swan 
Jrm  should  be  noticed.  At  Lake  Side,  where  the  ti'aiu 
from  Ulverston  comes  in  {La^e  Side  Hotel,  very  good), 
one  may  take  the  steam -yacht  which  plies  regularly  on 
the  wAters  of  "Windermere,  stoppmg  at  the  Ferry 
(5  M.),  Bowness  (6  M.),  or  Waterhead  (11  M).  This 
last  is  the  stat.  for  Ambleside,  f  M.  from  the  lake ;  and 
at  Ambleside  one  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Lake  region. 
(Fare  from  Grange  to  Ambleside  by  this  route,  about  5s.) 
A  party  of  four  persons  would  find  it  worth  their  while 
to  hire  a  carriage  at  Grange,  and  drive  first  to  Newby 
Bridge ;  thence  to  Lake  Side ;  then  across  from  Winder- 
mere Lake,  past  Esthwaite  Water  (around  which  Words- 
worth used  to  walk  when  he  was  attending  school  near 
by),  through  the  old  town  of  Hawkshead,  down  to  the 
Waterhead  Quay  on  Coniston  Lake ;  and  from  that  point 
over  the  Oxenfell,  past  Skelwith  Bridge  and  Elter  Water 
and  Brathay,  into  Ambleside.  This  can  be  done  easily 
in  5-6  hrs.,  including  stops,  and  in  fine  weather  is  a 
bewitching  journey.  The  descent  to  Coniston  and  the 
approach  to  Ambleside  afford  two  of  the  loveliest 
views  in  England.  Make  special  bargain  for  carriage ; 
driver  receives  fee  of  2s. — 3s.  6d.  We  advise  tourists 
to  hasten  to  Ambleside,  and  make  their  excursions  from 
there.  The  Long  Sleddale,  Kentmere,  Troutbeck,  and 
Rusland  Vales  n)ay  be  best  visited  from  Windermere 
Village  or  Bowness  ; .  but  everything  else  of  importance 
is  most  accessible  from  Ambleside.^ 

*  The  traveller  will  find  pocket  editions  of  Wordsworth 
id  Southey  excellent  companions ;  also.  Prof.  Wm.  Knight's 


ENGLAND.  45 

Windennere  lAke  is  10|  M.  long  and  1  M.  broad 
ia  its  widest  part.  It  is  134  ft.  above  the  sea-level, 
and  varies  in  depUi  from  90  to  240  ft.  Opposite  Bow. 
ness  there  is  a  grono  of  about  a  dozen  small  islands. 
The  suTTonnding  huls  rarely  rise  above  1,000  ft.  At 
a  few  yards  frotn  the  head  of  the  lake,  the  rivers 
Brathay  and  Rothay  unite  their  waters.  There  are  no 
such  nch  effects  of  color,  no  such  bold  and  magnifi- 
cent mountain  masses,  as  on  the  shores  of  the  Swiss 
lakes ;  but  there  is  a  bewildering  richness  of  Northeiii 
vegetation,  and  a  constant  succession  of  beautiful  land- 
sea^  Vich  as  few  other  countries  can  boast.  (Boat, 
to  row  yourself,  Is.  an  hr. ;  with  boatman,  Is.  6d.  per 
hr.  ;^for  the  day,  with  boatman,  10s.) 

BownesB  (Crown  Hotel;  Royal;  Old  England)  is  on 
a  pleasant  bay,  and  commauis  good  views  of  the  upper 
reaches  of  the  lake.  Ancient  parish  ch.  here.  Coaches 
every  morning  in  summer  for  Coniston;  and  for  Patter- 
dale,  by  the  Troutbeck  Vs^o  and  Kirkstone  Pass. 

Windermere  {Riggs's  Hotel;  Queen;  Elleray)  is 
H  M.  from  the  lake  by  road,  J  M.  by  footpath,  and 
5  M.  from  Ambleside.  Coach  each  morning  in  summer 
to  Fatterdale.  A  short  distance  from  the  stat.  formerly 
stood  EUerai/j  the  residence  of  Prof.  Wilson  (Christo- 
pher North);  it  has  been  replaced  by  a  new  house.  Fine 
view  from  Orrest  Head,  783  ft.  high  (i  hr.'s  walk). 

A.xa\}leside  (Salutation  Hotel ;  Queen's;  White  Lion, 
Waterhead,  at  the  lake  pier)  is  nearly  1  M.  from  tlie 
head  of  Windermere  Lake,  in  a  lovely  situation  at  the 
foot  of  Wansfell  Pik6.  Onmibuses  often  to  Grasmere 
and  to  head  of  lake;  and  coaches  for  Keswick,  and 

"  The  English  Lake  District,  as  interpreted  in  the  Poems  of 
Wordsworth,"  price  5s.  Baddeley's  Guide  is  «apital.  Jenkin- 
son's  "  Practical  Guide,"  price  7s.,  is  a  good  book.  There  ar« 
also  a  dozen  small  pamphlet  guides  for  6d.  or  Is.  each. 


46  AMBLESIDE.  —  CONISTON  LAKE. 

thrice  daily  for  Windcnnere.  Fare  from  LiTerpool  to 
Ambleside,  28s.  6d.,  20s.  6d.,  13s.  6d.;  from  Londou 
ta  Ambleside,  in  7  brs.,  76s.  4d.,  58s.  lOd.,  39s.  6d. 

At  Ambleside  you  are  on  classic  ground.  Mr.  Tay- 
lor, landlord  at  the  Salutation  Inn  (which  venerable 
hostelry  is  now  in  its  twentieth  decade,  although  the 
building  is  new),  says  that  Americans  always  ask  him 
how  far  it  is  to  Wordsworth's  grave,  where  Harriet 
Martineau  lived,  etc.,  but  that  English  tourists  never 
do.  Ambleside  is  picturesque,  although  the  inhabitants 
build  ugly  residences  out  of  the  slate  which  abounds  iu 
the  neighborhood.  The  park-like  vale  of  Rotha^y  with 
its  rich  woods  and  pretty  vistas  of  green  fields,  seems 
made  for  the  home  of  contemplation.  The.  new  Gh.  of 
St.  Mary  designed  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  is  in  a  charm- 
ing location.  We  give  a  number  of  short  excursions 
within  walking  distance,  out  of  which  the  tourist  must 
choose  those  which  strike  his  fancy.  To  the  Stock 
Ghy II  Force  (waterfall,  70  ft.  high),  within  the  Salutation 
Hotel  grounds.  The  distances  mentioned  below  are 
computed  from  the  "  Salutation."  To  Rydal  Mounts 
Ch.,  and  Falls,  2  M. ;  to  Skelgill  and  Wans/ell  Pike, 
3  M.;  to  the  top  of  Kirkstone  Pass,  4  M.;  to  Grasmerey 
under  Loughrigg  Fell,  and  back  by  Nab  Scar,  9  M.;  to 
Clappersgate,  1  M. ;  Brathay  Ch.,  2  M. ;  Low  Wood 
Hotel,  2  M.;  Troutbeck  Ch.,  4  M.;  Langdale  Ch.,  5  M. 
Tickets  for  a  circular  tour  by  Coniston,  Fumess  Abbey, 
and  Windermere  Lake  (fares,  8s.  9d.,  6s.  6d.),  and  for 
tbe  whole  tour,  can  be  obtained  at  Ambleside  or  at 
Bowness.     They  are  available  for  7  days. 

CoMiaton  Lake,  5i  M.  long  and  |  M.  broad,  is 
164  ft.  deep  in  some  places.  Its  surrounding  are 
fine,  and  the  view  down  upon  it  from  some  neighboring 
mt.  is  charming.  A  steam  yacht  plies  up  and  down 
^e  lake  3  times  daily  (fares.  Is.  6d.  and  Is.).    Excur* 


ENGLAND.        ,  47 

sions  up  Coniston  Old  Man  (2577  ft.),  "Wetherlara,  and 
Black  Combe  Mts.  are  for  the  leisurely  tourist. 

Goctch  Services  from  Ambleside :  For  the  Langdale 
Drive,  6s. ;  to  Keswick,  several  times  daily,  6s,  6d. 
single,  and  9s.  6d.  return  tickets.  The  Langdale  Drive 
is  from  Ambleside  to  Rothay  Bridge,  J  M.;  Skelwith 
Bridge,  3  ;  Col  with  Force,  4i ;  Smithy  Houses,  5  J ; 
Dungeon  Gill,  9^ ;  Chapel  Stile,  12^ ;  High  Close,  14. ; 
Grasmere  Ch.,  15 J;  Ambleside,  19J.  Much  of  the 
scenery  visited  on  this  drive  is  described  in  Words- 
worth's "Excursion."^ 

1  Private  Carriage  Excursions  from  Ambleside,  recom- 
mended to  tourists  who  have  time  at  their  disposition.  —  To 
Patterdale  by  Kirkstone  Pass,  Brothers*  Water,  and  back 
(an  exceedingly  interesting  drive,  abounding  in  wild  and 
romantic  scenery),  24  M.;  or  back  by  Troutbeck,  23  M. 
To  Keswick  by  Eydal  Water,  Grasmere,  Dunmail  Raise, 
Thirlmere,  Castlerigg,  and  back,  34  M.;  or  back  by  St. 
John's  Vale,  37  M.  To  Coniston  by  Tarn  Hows,  back  by 
Ilawkshead,  Blelham  Tani,  Wray  Castle,  to  Ambleside,  18  M. 
To  Coniston  by  Tarn  Hows,  back  by  Hawkshead,  Esthwaite 
Water,  the  Ferry,  Wray  Castle  to  Ambleside,  23  M.;  or 
across  the  Perry  and  back  to  Ambleside  by  Bowness,  25  M. 
Aoonnd  Windermere  Lake  by  Brathay,  Wray  Castle,  the 
Ferry,  Graythwaite,  to  Newby  Bridge,  and  back  by  the  E. 
side  of  Windermere,  Bowness  to  Ambleside,  80  M.  Around 
Langdale  by  Clappersgate,  Brathay,  Skelwith,  Blea  Tarn, 
Little  Langdale,  Wall  End,  back  by  Great  Langdale,  Red 
Bank,  Grasmere,  Rydal,  to  Ambleside,  21  M.;  or  direct  by 
Eltei-water,  18  M.  By  Clappersgate  to  Skelwith,  Lough- 
rigg  Tarn,  High  Close,  Red  Bank,  Grasmere,  Rydal,  to  Am- 
bleside, 12  M.  To  the  top  of  Kirkstone,  back  by  vale  of 
Troutbeck  and  Low  Wood,  11  M.;  or  back  by  Cook's  House, 
15  M.  To  Bowness,  back  by  Windermere,  Cook's  House, 
Vale  of  Troutbeck,  and  Low  Wood,  17  M.  To  Hawkshead 
back  by  Wray  Castle,  Blelham  Tarn,  12  M. 


48  -ULLSWATER  LAKE. 


From  Ambleside  to  UUswater  Lalco 

Ullswater  Lake  is  usually  visited  either  from  Arable* 
side  or  from  Keswick,  louring  the  tourist  season  a 
coach  leaves  Ambleside  for  Patterdale  at  10  a.m.  daily. 
The  route  through  Ambleside  to  the  Kirkstone  Pass 
passes  in  front  of  the  Salutation  Hotel,  and  branches 
to  the  r.,  passing  the  old  ch.  Here  and  there  it  is 
very  steep,  winding  along  the  side  of  the  Fell.  Below, 
on  the  r.,  is  the  Stock  Ghyll,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
which  is  Wausfell  Pike.  The  inn  at  the  top  of  the  Pass, 
called  the  Travellers*  Best,  is  said  to  be  the  highest  in- 
habited house  in  England.  It  stands  1,475  ft.  above 
the  sea-level.  Travellers,  independent  of  the  coacli, 
would  better  drive  round  by  Troutbeck  Bridge  and  up 
the  bold  hills,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Fall  of  Trout- 
beck,  to  the  top  of  the  Pass.  Descending  from  the 
Travellers*  Rest,  you  pass  on  the  1.  the  Kirk  Stone, 
which  looks,  perhaps,  a  trifle  like  a  ch.  from  a  point 
half-way  down  the  mt.,  towards  Brothers*  Water,  a 
little  lake,  named  from  the  drowning  of  two  brothers  in 
its  depths.  While  at  the  top  of  the  Pass,  you  oan^e 
the  flames  from  the  blast  furnaces  in  the  Barrow  dis- 
trict, and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  Irish  Sea.  The  Dove 
Crags,  beyond  the  Brothers'  Water  Hotel,  are  extremely 
picturesque. 

Patterdale  {Patterdale  Hotel ;  White  Lion)  stands 
in  a  pretty  valley,  a  few  hmndred  yards  from  the  head 
ef  the  lake.  1  M.  farther  on  is  the  Ullswater  Hotel, 
first-class.  The  scenery  all  about  this  point  is  rich  and 
varied.  The  view  from  tbe  windows  of  the  Ullswater 
Hotel  over  the  lake,  with  its  woody  shores  and  its 
islands,  is  very  beautiful.  (Fares  for  tour  on  Ullswater 
Lake,  by  steam  yacht,  3s.  and  2s.)     The  lioats  call  at 


ENGLAND.  49 

Howtown,  and  next  laud  passengers  close  to  Pooley 
Bridge,  whence  coaches  run  to  meet  the  traius  at  Pen- 
rith.   From  Penrith,  rail  to  Keswick. 

UUswater  Lake  is  9  M.  long,  J  M.  broad,  and 
.210  ft.  deep.  Tlie  upper  reach  of  the  lake  is  the  most 
beautiful.  Maily  people  prefer  this  to  Lake  Derwent- 
water.  See  LmlpVs  Tower  and  Ira  Force,  a  waterfall 
SO  ft.  high.  This  cascade  is  the  scene  of  the  incident 
on  which  Wordsworth's  poem  of  the  Somnambulist  is 
founded.  The  journey  from  Ambleside  to  UUswater 
usually  takes  2f  hrs.  Wordswoith  intended  to  make 
his  home  at  a  cottage  under  Place  Fell,  near  Patter- 
dale  ;  but  the  owner  asked  more  than  the  prudent  man 
thought  it  was  worth,  and  he  remained  at  Grasmere. 
The  places  in  tlie  UUswater  district  associated  with  the 
poet  are  best  approached  by  the  road  from  Grasmere 
to  Helvellyn,  leaaing  past  Girsdale  Tarn. 

From  Ambleside  to  Keswick  via  Bydal 
Mount  and  Q-rasmere. 

Those  persons  who  have  not  taken  the  Langdale 
Drive,  or  who  have  not  been  at  Grasmere  from  Amble- 
side, may  visit  the  old  homes  and  the  grave  of  Words- 
worth on  their  way  to  Keswick.  The  coaches  stop  at 
the  places  of  interest.  The  road  out  of  Ambleside  leads 
past  the  Kmll,  and  the  ivy-covered  residence  in  which 
Harriet  Martineau  lived  tor  a  long  time.  This  house 
is  on  the  1.  Thence  the  route  Ues  up  the  Rothay  valley 
to  RydaL  Note  Fox  HoiOy  Dr.  Arnold's  old  residence 
to  the  1.,  beyond  the  Rothay.  A  steep  road  on  the  r. 
leads  out  of  Rydal  to  Ri/dal  Mounts  where  Wordsworth 
spent  37  years  of  his  life,  and  where  he  died  in  1860. 
As  many  of  the  memorials  of  the  poet  in  his  home 
as  possible  have  been  preserved  unaltered;  but  t* 
4  « 


50  GRASMERE. 

old  picturesque  frontage  with  its  12  windows,  and 
the  ash-tree,  near  which  hung  the  "osier  cage"  oi  the 
doves,  are  gone.  The  present  owner  of  the  house 
declines  to  show  it.  The  location  is  extremely  beauti- 
iul.  Rydal  Falls  are  at  the  back  of  B^dal  Hall. 
Guide  at  cottage  below  the  ch.  Returmng  to  the 
main  i-oad,  the  traveller  passes  through  the  gorge 
between  !Nab  Scar  on  the  r.  and  Loughrigg  Fell  ou 
the  1. ;  sees  on  the  r.  Nab  Cottage,  in  which  Hartley 
Coleridge  lived  for  a  long  time,  and  where  he  died"; 
and  reaches  Rvdal  Water,  one  of  the  most  diminutive 
of  the  lakes.  From  this  point  it  is  but  a  short  distance 
to  the  delightfully  situated  Grasmere  Lake.  It  is  1  M. . 
long  and  \  M.  broad.  An  island  of  4  acres'  area  lies  in 
its  centre.  Ou  the  border  of  this  lake  is  the  Prince  of 
Wales  Hotel,  a  good  house.  Grasmere  {fiothay  Hotel; 
Swan;  Red  Lion)  lies  mainly  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake, 
although  many  of  the  newer  residences  border  on  the 
liighway.  Knight  says:  " llie  cottage  at  the  town  end 
of  Grasmere,  to  which  Wordsworth  came  with  his 
sister  in  the  last  days  of  the  last  century,  is,  even  more 
than  Rydal  Mount,  identified  with  his  poetic  prime. 
It  had  once  been  a  public  house,  bearing  the  sign  of 
the  Dove  and  Olive  Bough,  from  which  circumstance 
it  was  for  a  long  time,  and  is  still,  occasionally  named 
'Dove  Cottage.*  It  is  a  small,  two-storied  house." 
(See  De  Quincey's  description,  in  "Recollections  of  the 
Lakes,"  pp.  131,  137.)*     Grasmere  Ch.  is  the  one 

*  The  localities  most  deeply  identified  with  "Wordsworth 
are :  Grasmere,  where  he  lived  so  long,  and  is  buried ; 
Lower  Easedale,  where  he  spent  so  many  days  with  his  sister, 
by  the  side  of  the  hrook,  and  on  the  ten-aces  at  Lancrigg, 
where  The  Prelude  was  written;  Rydal  Mount,  where  he 
lived  the  latter  half  of  his  life,  and  found  one  of  the  mosi 
t 


ENGLAND.  51 

which  Wordsworth  drew  in  "The  Excursion,"  and 
in  its  cemetery  he  lies  buried.  The  interior  is  as  the 
poet  described  it:  there  are  the  "naked  rafters  in- 
tricately crossed,"  the  oaken  benches,  the  "heraldic 
shield"  in  the  "altar  window,"  etc.  After  a  visit  to 
the  ch.  you  can  find  some  very  lovely  rambles  in  the 
vicinity.  The  road  to  Keswick  climbs  Dunmail  Eaise 
Pass,  with  Steel  Eell  on  the  1.  and  Seat  Sandal  on  the 
r.,  and  crosses  the  boundary  between  Cumberland  and 
Westmoreland.  Descending  on  the  other  side,  Thirl- 
mere  Lake  appears,  with  Mt.  Helvellyn  on  the  r.  and 
part  of  Skiaaaw  in  the  distance.  The  coach  stops 
at  the  inn  at  Wythburn.  The  ch.  at  Wythburn  is 
one  of  the  smallest  in  England.  From  hence  the 
ascent  of  Mt.  Helvellyn  is  easiest.  Height.  8118 
ft.  ;  distance  to  top  from  Wythburn,  2  1-2  M.  ;  time 
required,  1  1-2  hrs.  Thirlmere  Lake,  which  sup- 
plies Manchester  with  water,  is  2  1-2  M.  lone,  and 
very  narrow.  From  the  W.  shore  many  lovely 
views  may  be  obtained.  From  an  elevation  in 
the  road  just  beyond  this  point,  Blencathara  may  be 
seen.  The  rich  Vale  of  St.  John  also  opens  its  charm- 
ing vistas  on  the  r.;  and  not  far  from  the  King's  Head 
Inn,  at  Thirlspot,  a  glimpse  of  Caslle  Rock^  the  fairy 
castle  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  "Bridal  of  Triermain,"  b 

perfect  retreats  in  England;  and  the  old  (upper)  path  he. 
tween  Rydal  and  Grasmere,  under  Nab  Scar,  his  favorite 
walk  during  his  later  years,  where  he  composed  hundreds  of 
verses.  There  is  scarcely  a  rock  or  mountain -summit,  ?». 
stream  or  tani,  or  even  a  well,  a  grove,  or  a  forest-side,  in 
all  that  neighborhood,  which  is  not  iraperishably  associated 
with  that  poet,  who  at  once  interpreted  them  as  they  ha4 
never  been  interpreted  before,  and  added 

"The  gleam. 
The  lijrlit  that  never  wns  on  sea  or  land. 
The  consecration,  and  the  iK>et's  dream." 


52        KESWICK.— DERWENTWATER  LAKE. 

obtained.  An  uninteresting  stretch  of  country  cornea 
next :  after  which  the  traveller  is  gratified  with  one  of 
the  most  exquisite  panoramas  in  the  Lake  Region,  the 
Derwent  Valley,  with  pretty  Keswick,  and  portions 
of  Bassenthwaite  and  Derwentwater  Lakes. 

Keswick  (Hotels:  Keswick,  at  the  rly.  stat.;  Boyal 
Oak;  Qtieen's;  George/  Lake)  is  surrounded  by  a  noble 
company  of  mts.,  with  Skiddaw,  the  chief,  3058  ft., 
towering  above  them.  It  is  a  handsome  little  town, 
and  one  or  two  days  may  be  spent  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 1  M.  from  Keswick,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Derwentwater,  in  Portinscale,  are  the  Defwentwa^er 
and  Tower  Hotels.  3  M.  from  Keswick  is  the  Lodore 
Hotel,  and  behind  it  the  Lodore  Fcdl,  which  Southey 
celebrated  in  verse.  The  Barrow  and  Lodore  Water- 
falls, the  Bowder  Stone,  Borrowdale  Valley,  Honister 
Pass,  Buttermere  and  Cruramock  Lakes,  Scale  Force, 
and  the  Newlands  Valley  may  be  seen  on  the  excursion 
called  The  Buttermere  Drive.  Excursionists  are  con- 
veyed in  open  wagonettes  (fares  5s.,  and  Is.  for  driver) 
through  this  pleasant  series  of  sylvan  and  lake  scenery. 
Borrowdale  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  valleys  m 
Great  Britain.  The  Wastwater  Excursion  from  Kes^ 
wick  is  interesting,  but  fatiguing. 

Derwentwater  Lake  lies  238  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level  ;  is  80  ft.  deep  in  the  centre,  3  M.  long,  and  1^  M. 
wide.  From  the  Friar's  Crag>  on  this  lake,  there  is  a 
ma^ificent  outlook.  There  are  several  islands,  one  of 
which,  St.  Herbert,  was  occupied  by  a  hermit  monk  in 
the  7th  century.  On  Rampsholme  Island,  the  Earls  of 
Derwentwater  once  had  a  mansion ;  and  from  it  Lady 
Derwentwater  escaped,  taking  with  her  the  family 
jewels,  to  procure  the  release  of  the  Earl,  who  was 
imprisoned  in  the  Tower  of  London  for  taking  part 
in  the  rebellion  of  1715.     (Charge  for  boat  with  boat- 


ENGLAND.  53 

I  on  the  lake,  2s.  for  the  first  hour,  Is.  6d.  for  every 
succeeding  hour.)  Tor  those  pressed  for  time,  a  drive 
round  Derwentwater  Lake  will  give  a  view  of  the  prin- 
cipal points  of  scenery.  Bassenthwaite  Lake  begins 
about  3  M.  N.  of  the  foot  of  Derwentwater.  It  is  4 
M.  long  and  about  f  M.  wide.  Tlie  river  Derwent, 
which  carries  the  waters  from  the  Derwent  and  Kes- 
wick .Lakes,  enters  it  at  its  head,  and  leaves  it  at  its 
foot,  flowing  past  Cockermouth  and  into  the  sea. 
Bassenthwaite  has  three  promontories  on  its  E.  side,, 
which  is  overshadowed  by  Skiddaw.  It  is  not  ofteti 
visited  by  tourists,  because  it  lies  on  the  N.  outskirt  of 
the  Lake  District ;  but  it  is  well  worth  seeing. 

Qreta  Hall,  where  the  poet  Southey  spent  the 
best  part  of  his  life,  is  a  short  distance  from  Kes- 
wick. Walk  down  the  main  street  to  the  bridge 
crossing  the  river  Greta,  whence  a  good  view  may  be 
had  of  the  Hall.  It  stands  on  the  r.,  surrounded  by 
trees.  From  this  point  to  Crosthwaite  Ch.  is  a  pleasant 
walk,  and  in  the  ch.-yard  is  Southey's  grave.  The 
edifice  contains  a  monument  to  the  laureate,  consisting^ 
of  a  fidl-length  figure.  The  poetical  inscription  was- 
written  by  Wordsworth.  In  the  chapcel  is  a  monu- 
ment to  Sir  John  Radcliife,  Knight,  an  ancestor  of  the 
Earls  of  Derwentwater.  From  the  tower,  good  view. 
A  footpath  through  the  meadow  called  Ilouray  was 
one  of  Southey's  favorite  walks.  From  this  point  fine 
view  of  the  magnificent  group  of  mts. :  on  the  N.,  tlie 
huge  mass  of  Skiddaw;  on  the  E.,  Wallow  Crag;  and 
to  the  S.,  the  Borrowdale  mts.  The  lead-pencil  manu- 
factories near  Keswick  merit  a  visit;  so  does  an  in- 
genious model  of  the  Lake  District  in  a  museum  in  the 
town.  From  Castle  Head,  ^  M.  outside  Keswick,  most 
of  Bassenthwaite  Lake,  a  portion  of  Derwentwater,  the 
whole  of  the  intervening  valley,  and  Mt.  Skiddaw  may  b# 


54  KESWICK.  —  PENRITH. 

«een.    St.  John  and  Crosthwaite  Chs.  may  also  be  i 

trom  this  point.  Unless  the  weather  is  fine,  it  is  use- 
less to  hope  for  any  satisfactory  view  of  the  mts.  Even 
in  midsummer  the  front  of  Skiddaw  is  overhung  with 
mists  for  a  large  part  of  the  time.  About  1|  M.  from 
Keswick,  in  a  field  adjoining  the  old  Penrith  road,  are 
the  Druids'  Stones,  formed  of  38  stones,  the  largest  of 
which  is  upwards  of  7  ft.  high.  Near  by  are  the  tow- 
ering heignts  of  Helvellyn,  Blencathara,  and  Skiddaw, 
and,  in  the  distance,  to  the  W.,  an  impressive  range. 

Ascent  of  Skiddaw  from  Keswick.  —  The  distance 
to  the  top  is  about  5^  M. ;  time,  there  and  back,  4-6 
hrs. ;  charge  for  pony,  6s. ;  guide,  6s.  A  guide  is  usually 
necessary  from  Skiddaw  to  the  summit  of  Blencathara ; 
distance,  about  6  M. ;  ground  in  places  very  wet. 

The  tourist  can  now  go  on  to  Scotland  (which  course 
we  recommend),  via  Penrith  and  Carlisle ;  or  can  re- 
turn to  Liverpool  (fares  from  Keswick,  39s.  2d.,  278, 
2d.,  18s.),  and  thence  go  to  London  by  the  North 

Western  Rly.,  arriving  at  Euston  stat.  (fares,  by  all  the 
Imes,  29s.,  21s.  9d.,  16s.  9d.;  distance,  2011  M.);  the 
Midland,  arriving  at  St.  Pancras ;  the  Great  Northern, 
arrivinffat  King's  Cross ;  or  the  Great  Western,  arriv- 
ing at  Faddington  stat.  Free  parlor  cars  are  run  on 
express  trains,  both  on  the  L.  &  N.  W.  Ry.  and  the 
Midland  Ry. 

Frpm  Keswick  to  Carlisle  and  Scotland. 

From  Keswick  to  Penrith,  18  M.  (fares,  4s.  4d., 
Is.  lOd.).  Penrith  (Crown  Hotel;  George)  is  charm- 
ingly situated.  Excursions  may  be  made  to  Brougham 
Castle  and  Hall,  Arthur's  Round  Table,  Lowther  CastU 
and  the  famous  Eden  Hall,  which  contains  the  curious 


'       ENGLAND.  5* 

old  drinkiug-glass  called  the  "Luck  of  Eden  Hall/* 
See  ruins  of  Penrith  Castle,  a  favorite  residence  of 
Richard  III.  In  the  cemetery  of  the  parish  ch.  is  the 
Gianfs  Graoe,  an  ancient  mysterious  mound. 

Carlisle  {County  Hotel ;  Red  Lion;  Bush;  Crowfi 
and  Mitre),  18  M.  from  Penrith  and  8  M.  from  the 
Scottish  border,  is  the  capital  of  Cumberland.  It  date* 
back  to  the  Roman  days,  and  was  close  to  Hadrian's 
wall.  In  the  early  wars  between  Eagland  and  Scotland 
it  was  of  great  importance.  The  Cadle  was  built  by 
William  Rufus.  Within  it  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was 
imprisoned  in  1568.  The  Cathedral  does  not  stand  in 
the  front  rank ;  but  its  E.  window  is  commonly  said  to 
be  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  Kingdom.  The  ch.  was 
originally  part  of  a  Norman  priory,  built  of  red  free- 
stone.  It  contains  a  monument  to  Dr.  Paley,  Arch- 
deacon of  Carlisle.  Note  the  old  glass  of  the  time  of 
Richard  II.,  in  the  E.  window,  and  the  exquisite  details 
of  the  flamboyant  Gothic  work.  The  walls  and  windows 
of  the  choir  are  Norman :  the  upper  part  of  the 
choir,  -with  the  E.  end  and  the  roof.  Late  Decorated. 
See  the  old  abbey  gate-house ;  and  tlie  refectory,  now 
used  as  the  chapter- liouse ;  also  quaint  houses  in  the 
market-place ;  and  the  Moot  Hall. 

Beyond  Carlisle  the  rjy.  enters  the  Debatable  Ground, 
where  for  centuries  the  borderers  waged  war  on  each 
other.  A  little  farther  on  is  Ecclefechan  (Scotland), 
where  Thomas  Carlyle  was  born  and  is  buried.  Tlia 
rly.  crosses  the  Bsk,  descending  from  Liddesdale :  — 

"  March,  march,  Eskdale  and  Liddesdale, 
All  the  blae  bonnets  ai*e  over  the  border.** 


56  THE  LAND  OF  BURNS. 


SCOTLAND. 

SHORTLY  after  crossing  the  Sark  River,  which  is  iim 
boundary  between  England  and  Scotland,  the  route 
passes  Gretna  Junction,  near  which  is  Gretna  Qre^i, 
formerly  the  resort  of  ninaway  couples  anxious  to  be 
married.  These  marriages,  rendered  possible  by  the  dif- 
ference between  the  English  and  Scotch  law,  were  first 
celebrated,  in  1760,  by  a  tobacconist  named  Paisley. 
In  1856  they  were  suppressed  by  act  of  Parliament. 
Annan  Junction  was  the  scene  of  the  spirited  escape 
of  King  Edward  Balliol,  in  1332,  from  tne  cavalry  of 
Archibald  Douglass.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Edward 
Irving,  in  1792. 

The  Land  of  Burns 

can  be  visited  from  Glasgow ;  but  it  will  be  more  satis- 
factory to  go  from  Carlisle  to  Dumfries,  pass  the  night, 
and  then  proceed  to  Ayr.  The  excursion  may  be  made 
in  a  day. 

Dumfries  (Queensberry  Hotel;  King^s  Arvis)  is 
32|  M.  from  Carlisle  (fares,  5s.  6d.,  4s.  Id.,  28.  9d.). 
Here  Burns  lived  for  several  years,  and  here  he  died, 
at  the  house  now  known  as  Burns's.  He  also  lived  for 
18  months  after  he  became  an  exciseman,  at  the  foot 
of  Bank-St.  His  Mausoleum  is  in  St.  Michael's  Ch.- 
yard  ;  in  the  vault  beneath,  lie  Burns  and  his  wife 
and  son.  The  Oreyfriars  Ch.  deserves  a  visit. 
Most  readers  of  Scott  will  remember  the  story  of  Grey- 
friars  Monastery  and  of  *'Kirkpatrick*s  blooay  work.'* 
Dumfries  is  the  capital  of  Nithsdale,  and  its  people  call 
it  *  •  The  Queen  of  the  South. "    From  a  border  hamlet 


SCOTLAND.  57 

of  the  8th  century,  with  a  Franciscan  convent  and  a 
castle,  it  has  grown  into  a  prosperous  port  and  factory 
town.  Excursions  from  Dumfries :  —  To  Iiinclu- 
den  Abbey,  1^  M.,  beautiful  ruins  of  a  12th-century 
Benedictine  nunnery,  and  a  favorite  resort  of  Bums. 
Amid  this  sylvan  oeauty  he  composed  his  '*  Vision 
of  Libertie."  —  To  New  or  Sweetheart  Abbey,  a 
lovely  Gothic  ruin,  7  M.  S.  Tlie  Lady  Devorgilla, 
who  built  the  abbey  (for  Cistercians),  m  1284,  em- 
balmed the  heart  (whence  the  name)  of  iier  husband, 
John  Balliol,  and  had  it  built  in  over  the  high  altar. 
Devorgilla  also  erected  in  Dumfries  the  monastery  for 
Franciscan  friars,  before  whose  altar  Robert  the  Bruce 
slew  the  Bed  Comyn ;  and  the  old  bridge  across  the 
Nith.-— To  Terregies  (8  M.)  and  Irangray  (5  M.),  in 
whose  ch.-yard  is  a  handsome  monument  erected  by 
Scott  to  the  memory  of  Helen  Walker  ( Jeannie  Deans). 
Irongray  is  the  scene  of  "The  Recreations  of  a  Country 
Parson." — To  Ellisland  farm,  where  Burns  wrote 
•*  Tam  O'Shanter"  and  the  beautiful  ode  **  To  Mary 
in  Heaven."  13  M.  from  Dumfries  is  the  extraordin- 
ary architectural  pile  of  *  Drumlanrig  Castle,  built 
by  William,  first  Duke  of  Queensberry,  who  wasted 
princely  sums  on  it.  Torthoi*wald  Castle  is  a  massive 
ruin.  4M.  from  Dumfries.  Caerlaverock  Castle  (9 
M.)  is  a  grand  old  fortress  on  the  Sol  way  Frith,  de- 
scribed in  "  Guy  Maunering."  Lochmaben,  Ruthwelf, 
and  venerable  Kirkcudbright  (near  Dundrennan  Abbey 
and  St.  Mary's  Isle}  may  also  be  visited.  Tourists 
who  wish  to  view  the  extreme  S.  coast  of  Scotland 
shoidd  go  to  Stranraer  from  Dumfries  (69  M.) ;  and 
from  Stranraer  by  rail  to  Ayr  and  Glasgow.  Tliose  who 
would  make  only  a  short  stop  at  Dumfries  should  buy 
a  ticket  from  Carlisle  to  Mauchline  (81^  M. ;  fares, 
13s.  8d.,  10s.  3d.,  6s.  9Jd.>     At  Mauchline  (London 


58  AYR.  —  ALLOWAY. 

Hotel ;  Black  Bull)  evervtliing  speaks  of  Burns ;  bis 
farm  of  Mossgiel  is  1-^  M.  N. ;  tliere  lie  was  married  to 
Jean  Armour ;  there  bis  plough  turned  up  the  mouse's 
nest.  In  Mauchline  is  "Poosie  Nansie's"  cottage, 
celebrated  for  the  meeting  of  tbe  "  Jolly  Beggars."  If 
you  have  time,  walk  through  the  woods  and  fields  from 
Mauchline  to  Montgomerie.  There  stands  the  pretty 
mansion  where  once  "Highland  Mary"  lived  as  an 
humble  dairy-maid.  From  Mauchline  a  branch  liuc, 
11  M.  long,  leads  to  Ayr  {King's  Amu  ;  Queen' a) ,  to 
which  thousands  of  pilgrims  go  to  pay  homage  to  Burns. 
It  is  on  the  sea-coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ayr. 
See  the  *'Twa  Brigs"  of  Bums's  poem.  The  Auld 
Brig  (now  only  a  footpath)  dates  from  the  reign  of 
Alexander  III.,  in  the  13th  century ;  the  new  bridge, 
from  1877.  A  Gothic  tower,  133  ft.  high,  containing 
a  statue  of  Wallace,  stands  on  the  site  of  a  tower  in 
which  the  hero  is  said  to  have  been  confined.  Crom- 
well built  the  foi*t  of  Ayr  in  1652.  Bift  a  few  fi-ag- 
ments  remain.  Take  a  carriage  to  Bums's  Cottage, 
the  Monument,  and  Alloway  Kirk  (1^  hrs. ;  fare,  about 
4s.  for  a  party).  Walk  down  through  the  long  and 
exquisitely  shaded  avenue  to  the  cottage.  In  this  rude 
home  the  poet  was  born,  Jan.  25,  1759.  One  room 
has  been  transformed  into  a  kind  of  museum,  and  there 
some  of  the  poet's  original  MSS.  may  be  seen.  Not 
far  beyond  is  Alloway  Kirk,  roofless  and  desolate. 
The  walls  are  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation,  and  the 
bell  remains;  but  the  woodwork  has  been  all  used 
up  for  memorials.  New  Alloway  Ch.  is  on  the  other 
side  of  the  road.  There  is  little  to  see  in  the  "auld 
haunted  kirk,"  so  go  on  to  the  bridge  over  the  *'Bonnv 
Doon,"  built  since  Burns's  time ;  up  stream  you  will 
see  the  "  Auid  Brig  "  immortalized  in  "  Tam  O'Shan- 
ter."    An  excursion  along  the  beautiful  Doon  in  the 


SCOTLAND.  59 

summer-time  is  most  deliglitful.  The  Burns  Monu- 
ment  stands  near  the  new  bridge.  See,  on  the  ground, 
floor,  memorials  of  the  poet,  and  the  Bible  wnich  he 
gave  to  "Highland  Mary."  Good  view  from  upper 
part  of  monument.  Note  the  statues  of  Tarn  O'Sliaii- 
ter  and  Souter  Johnnie,  in  a  grotto  on  S.  N.  E.  of 
Ayr  lies  a  country  in  which  Burns  laid  the  scene  of 
many  poems.  It  is  accessible  only  by  rural  teams 
or  on  foot.  Ml.  OUphaiit,  where  Bums  lived  when 
a  child,  and  Tarbottotiy  where  he  passed  his  early 
manhood,  and  where  he  wrote  "Jolin  Barleycorn, 
"  Now,  whistling  winds,"  etc.,  are  but  a  few  miles 
from  Alloway. 

A  rl^.  runs  S.  from  Ayr  to  Maybole  (9  M.),  the 
old  capital  of  Car  rick,  and  the  scene  of  Scott's  "  Ayr- 
shire Tragedy,"  near  which  are  the  rich  ruins  of  Cross- 
ragttel  Jbbeif  (founded  about  1240)  and  Danure  Castle  ; 
also  the  splendid  Culzean  Castle,  where  tlie  Earls  of 
Cassilis  have  held  court  for  centuries,  on  cliffs  over 
the  sea.  7  M.  S.  of  Maybole  are  the  ruins  of  Turn' 
berry  Castle^  made  famous  by  Bx)bert  Bruce  and  Wal- 
ter Scott.  22  M.  by  rail  from  Ayr  is  Girmn,  10  M. 
off  shore  from  which  Ailaa  Craig  rises  from  the  sea, 
1,100  ft.  high,  and  2  M.  around.  The  rly.  runs  farther 
S.  to  Portpatrick  ;  Stranraer ;  Glenluce,  near  the  ruins 
of  Luce  Abbey  (founded  1190)  and  Soulseat  Abbey ; 
picturesque  little  Wigtown,  near  Baldoon  Caatle,  the 
scene  of  Scott's  "  Bride  of  Lammennoor ;  "  and  other 
localities  famous  in  the  chronicles  «f  the  borders  and 
the  sea,  —  the  Bruce,  the  Wallace,  and  the  Cove- 
nanters. 

Ayr  can  be  visited  from  Glasgow  (40  M.)  in  an  after- 
noon. (Fares,  5s.,  4s.,  3s.)  Leaving  Ayr  for  Glas- 
gow, in  6J  M.  the  train  reaches  Troon,  the  chief  sea- 
port and  summer-resort  of  Ayrshire,  3  M.  from  the 


60  Paisley.  —  Glasgow. 

great  ruins  of  Dundonald  Castle,  the  home  of  the 
founder  of  the  Stuart  dynasty;  a  branch  line  runs 
(9  M.)  to  Kilmarnock,  where  Burns's  poems  were  fii-st 
published.  Beyond  Troon,  the  Glasgow  train  passes 
Irvine,  where  the  poet  Montgomery  was  born,  where 
Burns  lived  for  a  time,  and  where  Robert  Bruce  sur- 
rendered to  the  English  army  under  Percy.  3^  M. 
farther  on  is  Kilwimdjiff,  with  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
priory,  famous  in  Masonic  annals;  and  also  the  impos- 
me  Eglinton  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Montgomeries. 

Pauley  {New  Globe  ;  County)  contains  a  magnili- 
cent  Town  Hall  ;  a  jail,  which  looks  like  a  palace  ;  a 
museum  of  local  antiquities  and  relics;  and  the  Abbejf 
Church,  founded  in  1169.  In  the  Reformation,  Paisley 
was  noted  for  its  intense  devotion  to  the  Catholic  re- 
ligion. The  chapel  of  the  abbey  contains  a  "sound- 
ing aisle,"  so  called  from  its  remarkable  echo.  The 
nave,  which  remains  entire,  is  used  as  a  parish  ch. 
Paisley  (once  a  Roman  fortress)  was  of  no  importance 
until  the  last  century ;  but  now  its  trade  includes  weav- 
ing, shawls,  and  thread-making  (the  estabhshments  of 
Coals,  and  Clark  &  Co.  are  the  largest  of  their  kind  in 
the  world).  "Christopher  North"  was  born  here. 
Not  far  from  Paisley  is  the  farm  of  Moorhouse,  where 
Robert  Pollok,  author  of  "  The  Course  of  Time,"  was 
bora,  in  1798.  See  Crookston  Castle,  where  Queen 
Mary  was  betrothed  to  Darnley,  half-way  between 
Piisley  and 

*      Glasgow. 

(Hotels:  St.  Enoch's;  George;  Grand;  Alexandra; 
Bath;  Central).  The  American  tourist  will  find  a 
vast  deal  to  occupy  his  attention  in  this,  tlie  second 
city  in  population  and  commercial  importance  in  Great 
Britain.    A  small  Roman  colony  once  occupied  this 


SOOTLANB.  61 

8l(e.  About  the  year  560  St.  Mungo  founded  » 
religioaa  house  here,  and  the  village  was  nurtured 
by  the  Church  for  a  thousand  years.  At  the  Re- 
formation Glasgow  had  but  4,000  inhabitants,  and 
in  1708  it  had  13,776.  But  towards  the  end  of  the 
18th  century  it  began  to  increase  enormously ; 
and  in  1889  the  population  was  750,000.  The  im- 
portation of  tobacco  from  Virginia  and  Mary- 
land was  long  one  of  the  chief  branches  of  industry. 
To-dav,  this  town,  60  M.  from  the  sea,  rivals  Liv- 
erpool  in  shipping,  Manchester  in  cotton-spinning, 
Newcastle  iu  coal,  the  Thames  and  the  Tyne  in  iron 
ship-building,  and  Wolverhampton  in  iron  furnaces. 
The  perseverance  of  the  Scotcli  in  converting  the  Clyde 
into'a  vast  harbor,  cannot  be  too  much  admired.  Glas- 
gow was  the  first  city  in  Europe  to  possess  a  regular 
fine  of  steamboats.  In  1812-18  steam-packets  crossed 
the  Irish  Straits  between  Greenock  and  Belfast.  It 
was  in  Glasgow  that  James  Watt  perfected  his  famous 
invention.  In  1718  the  first  ship,  a  little  craft  of  60 
tons,  left  Glasgow  for  the  New  World.  The  statistics 
show  that  13,071  ships  (6,662,501  tons)  entered  or 
left  the  port  in  1880.  The  commercial  fleet  of  Glasgow 
was  1,088  ships  and  532  steamers.  The  movement  of 
Greenock  was  7,890  ships  (1,943,300  tons). 

Walk  down  to  the  splendid  Glasgow  Bridge,  from 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  *  Broomielaw,  or 
Harbor,  on  which  more  than  £2,000,000  has  been 
spent.  The  Broomielaw  is  400  ft.  wide,  and  extends 
down  the  stream  for  \\  M.,  walled  on  either  side  by  su- 
perb ranges  of  docks,  along  which  ships  are  laid  three 
or  four  deep.  From  the  Bridge  upstream  a  good  view 
of  the  Custom  House  on  the  N.  bank  is  eommandedl. 
The  works  on  the  Clyde  have  cost  £8,500,000,  of 


62  GLASGOW. 

943,500,000.  In  1760  James  Watt  reported  a  maxi. 
mum  depth  of  water  at  the  Broomielaw  of  3  ft.  3  in. 
Now,  as  the  result  of  the  constant  dredging,  vessels 
drawing  23  ft.  of  water  enter  freely.  Glasgow  is  in 
the  famous  Lanarkshire  black  district,  which  has  a 
great  coal-field,  rich  also  in  seams  of  ironstone.  There 
are  so  many  blast  furnaces  here  that  the  sky  to  the  8. 
and  S.  E.  is  lighted  up  nightly  with  their  glow  as  if  by 
a  great  conflt^gration. 

The  E.  section  of  the  city  includes  the  main  business 
part,  and  the  objects  of  antiquarian  interest.    The  W. 
IS  the  section  for  residences  of  the  fashionable  people ; 
aud  on  the  S.  are  the  great  public  works.    Buchanan^ 
Si.  is  handsomely  built,  and  contains  the  finest  shops 
and  offices.    Argyle-St.,  3  M.  long  (including  TrongaU» 
and  Gallowgate),  is  the  main  thoroughfare.    George-St. 
is  an  avenue  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  cit^ 
and  passing  through  George  Square.    This  is  a  cen- 
tral point,  and  lies  close  to  t  he  two  principal  rly.  stats. 
In  tne  centre  stands  the  Scoit  Mot^utnent,  a  fiuted  col- 
umn surmounted  by  a  gigantic  statue.    On  the  E.  and 
W.  are  equestrian  bronze  statues  of  Queen  Victoria 
and  the  Prince  Consort.     There  are  also  figures  of 
James  Watt,  by  Chantrey ;  the  exquisite  statue  of  Sir 
John  Moore  (a  native  of  Glasgow),  by  Flax  man  ;  one 
of  Dr.  Livingstone,  the  traveller ;  and  others  to  Camp- 
bell the  poet,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Robert  Bums,  Lord 
Clyde,  and  Dr.  Graham.     On  the  S.  is  the  General 
Foxt'Office,  plain  but  spacious ;  and  on  the  E. is  the  new 
municipal  buildings.    The  Bank  of  Scotland  and  the 
Mffrehanis'  House  occupjr  the  W.  side.    The  Royal 
Bacohange  is  in  ^e  Corinthian  style,  with  rich  colon- 
jjMides.    Strangers  are  admitted  to  the  news-room,  130 
ft.  long  by  60  ft.  broad,  with  a  noble  arched  roof. 
8ee  Hutcheson^s  Hospital,  Corinthian  buildings  witli  « 


SCOTLAND.  ea 

high  tower,  founded  In  1641  by  two  brothers ;  and 
alBO  in  Ingram  Street  the  old  Glasgow  Assembly  Booms j 
also  St.  David's  Ch.  and  the  Mitchell  Library,  Li 
Argyte^St.,  at  the  so-called  Cross  of  Glasgow,  whence 
Higk-St.y  GaUoiogate,  London^St.,  and  Saltmarket  di» 
verge,  stands  an  equestrian  statue  of  William  III.  At 
the  comer  of  the  High-St,  and  Trongais  formerly 
stood  the  old  (hurt  House,  in  front  of  which  criminals 
were  executed,  and  the  ancient  jail,  of  which  Walter 
Scott  speaks.  See  the  Cross  Steeple^  a  relic  of  the  old 
municipal  splendor.  The  ancient  SaUimrket,  FrineeS" 
St.y  and  KingS'St.,  and  the  adjacent  closes  and  wynds, 
on  Saturday  evenings  afford  scenes  of  violence  and 
brutality  among  the  lower  classes.  Walk  up  High-St. 
on  the  E.  side  from  the  Trongate  to  the  CathedraL 
See  old  Glasgow  College  (built  1632-52,  in  quaint  and 
gloomy  monastic  forms),  now  a  rly.  stat.  Opposite,  at 
the  comer  of  High  and  Ck>llege  Sts.,  is  the  house  in 
which  Thomas  Campbell  lived  as  a  student.  Farther 
on  is  the  place  called  the  Bell  of  the  Brae,  where,  in 
1300,  Wallace  and  his  Scots  defeated  thrice  their  num- 
ber of  Englishmen,  and  Wallace  clove  Lord  Percy's 
head  in  twain ;  and  a  little  beyond  this  is  the  homely 
Barony  Ch.,  once  in  charge  of  Dr.  Norman  MacLeod. 
The  Cathedral  is  famous  as  one  of  the  two  Catholic 
Chs.  spared  in  Scotlaiid  by  the  fury  of  the  Reformation. 
The  rresbyterian  ministers  prevailed  on  the  magis- 
trates in  1579  to  have  it  torn  down  ;  but  the  corpora- 
tions of  the  city  rose  in  arms,  and  prevented  it.  Two 
stone  "idols"  were  taken  out  of  their  nooks  and  broken 
to  pieces,  as  Scott  has  told  us,  "'and  the  auld  Kirk 
stood  as  orouse  as  a  cat  when  the  ^es  are  kaimed  oif 
her,  and  a'body  was  alike  pleased."  (Admittance  daily, 
except  Sun.,  10-6 ;  Tues.  and  Thure.,  2d.)  Tlhs  noble 
structure  is  dedicated  to  St.  Kentigern,  or  St.  Mungcjt 


64  GLASGOW  CATHEDRAL. 

ihc  founder  of  the  see  of  Glasjjow,  -who  was  buried  on 
the  £.  end  of  the  cathedral-site.  The  edifice  is  pic- 
turesquely located ;  and  above  it,  on  terraces  ulniost 
oriental  in  their  construction,  arises  the  Kecropolis, 
tbe  finest  cemetery  in  the  city,  with  rich  shrubber- 
ies and  crowds  of  monuments;  approached  from  the 
cathedral  by  the  Bridge  of  Sighs.  The  arrangement 
of  the  monuments  is  very  remarkable,  and  forms  a 
noble  background  to  the  ancient  cathedral.  The  most 
noted  monuments  are  those  of  John  Knox  the  Re- 
former, Dr.  William  Black,  Rev.  Dr.  Dick,  and  Major 
Monteith.  Climbing  to  the  summit  one  overlooks  the 
fast  city,  with  its  enormous  ranges  of  buildings,  and  its 
forests  of  chimneys,  and  of  masts  along  the  Clvde,  and 
the  blue  hills  of  Lanark,  Renfrew,  and  Argyll.  The 
original  cathedral  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  David  I., 
ki  1136.  Murdo,  the  famous  architect,  built  it;  and 
ihe  inscription  on  his  tomb  alludes  with  pride  to  the 
fact.  The  cathedral  is  319  ft.  long  and  63  ft.  wide. 
The  W.  door  is  rich  and  beautiful.  Its  general  design 
is  French,  but  the  moulding  and  details  are  English. 
The  interior  qpntains  147  pillars,  and  many  of  the  159 
windows  are  of  very  beautiful  workmanship.  The  en- 
trance is  by  a  door  in  the  S.  aisle.  Before  the  Refor- 
mation, the  ch.  was  divided  into  two  parts,  and  service 
was  held  in  each.  For  int-erestin^  details,  see  Fergus- 
son's  Architecture.  The  *  Crypt  is  unique  in  beauty, 
and  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  perfect  pieces  of  archi- 
tecture in  Britain.  It  is  supported  by  66  pillars  (18  ft. 
Iiigh),  some  of  which  are  18  ft.  in  circumference ;  and 
illuminated  from  41  windows.  The  piers  and  groin- 
ings  are  of  exquisitely  beautiful  and  varied  designs. 
In  the  centre  stands  the  shrine  of  St.  Mungo.  At  the 
8.  E.  comer  is  St.  Mungo's  Well.  See  also  the  tomb 
^  Edward   Irring,  who  died  at  Glasgow  in  1834. 


SCOTLAND.  65 

til  "Rob  Roy"  there  is  an  interesting  description  of 
this  crjpt.  Other  things  to  note  are  the  stained- 
glass  windows,  executed  m  Munich,  for  £100,000  (ex- 
planations  of  the  windows,  2d.);  the  Drippina  Aisle, 
50  called  from  the  perpetual  dripping  of  water  from  the 
roof ;  the  GAoir,  locally  known  as  the  Hi^A  Ch.,  now 
used  as  one  of  the  city  chs. ;  magnificent  organ  here  ; 
behind  it,  the  chapel  and  the  chapter-house.  The  curi- 
ous old  ch.-yard  is  literally  paved  with  stone  slabs,  with 
inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  local  notables. 

The  new  University,  the  most  imposing  modem 
edifice  in  Scotland,  is  approached  through  West  End 
Park:  take  the  footpatii  from  the  bridge  over  the 
Kelvin.  From  the  platform,  good  view.  The  Univer- 
sity has  a  frontage  of  600  ft.,  with  fine  central  tower, 
310  ft.  high.  The  architect  was  the  late  Sir  G.  Gilbert 
Scott.  In  general  style  the  buildings  are  Early  Eng- 
lish. The  buildings  will  have  cost  £500,000.  The 
museum,  rich  in  mineralogy,  geology,  and  natural  his- 
iory,  is  open  daily,  10-3  (admission,  6d.).  In  the 
Hunierian  Library,  valuable  series  of  early  printed 
books.  The  University  was  founded  about  1450  by 
Bishop  Tumbull.  In  1560  Queen  Mary  endowed  it 
with  a  moiety  of  the  confiscated  Church  property  in  the 
city.  Its  renown  as  a  seat  of  learning  culminated  in 
the  last  century.  Cullen  and  Black,  Hunter  and  Reid, 
Adam  Smith  and  Watt,  are  among  the  great  names  asso- 
ciated with  it.  Near  by  is  the  Botanical  Garden.  The 
Corporation  Galleries  of  Art  have  valuable  collections 
of  paintings  (by  Claude,  Cuyp,  Teniers,  Murillo,  et<j.) ; 
also  a  marble  statue  of  Pitt,  by  Efaxman,  and  por- 
traits of  the  English  kings.  Galleries  open  daily,  Sun- 
days excepted.  See  St.  Arbdrew^s  PaJUuse  and  the 
Kelvin  Grove  Park  and  Jifuieum.  The  park  contains 
a  fountain  commemorating  the  introduction  of  water 
5 


66  DUMBARTON  CASTLE. 

from  Loch  Katrine.  In  Kelvin  Grove  is  the  Iftdnstrial 
Mwfeum.  Near  the  University  is  the  New  Western 
Infirmary.  The  beautiful  squares  and  terraces  in  the 
W.  contain  the  homes  of  the  rich  merchants,  the  "  to- 
bacco lords/'  and  the  great  ship-builders. 

Glasgow  Green  is  a  park  extending  1  M.  along 
the  Clyde,  adorned  with  an  obelisk  to  Lord  Nelson, 
and  the  scene  of  very  remarkable  open-air  preaching 
on  summer  Sunday  evenings.  In  this  park  Prince 
Charles  Edwai^  reviewed  his  army  in  1745  ;  and  here, 
also,  Watt  was  strolling  when  the  central  idea  of  the 
steam-engine  occurred  to  him.  To  the  S.  of  Queens 
Park  is  the  village  of  Langside,  where  Queen  Mary  met 
with  her  final  defeat,  in  1668.  A  memorial  stone  marks 
the  spot  whence  Mary  witnessed  the  battle. 

Ezcursions  around  Glasgow.  —  To  Greenock, 
by  the  river ;  past  the  suburb  of  Govan  and  tlie  ship- 
yards of  Messrs.  Napier,  etc. ;  the  old  royal  burgh  of 
Renfrew,  near  which  Somerled,  Thane  of  Argyll,  was 
defeated  and  slain  in  1164 ;  Erskine  Ferry,  where  the 
Earl  of  Argyll  was  captured,  in  1685,  in  the  disguise 
of  a  peasant;  Dalnottar  and  the  cra^y  Kilpatrick 
Hills ;  Bowling,  near  the  high  ruins  of  Dunglas  Castle 
and  the  end  of  Antoninus's  wall;  and  Dunglaspoint, 
with  its  monument  to  Henry  Bell,  who  first  introauced 
steam  navigation  on  the  Clyde.  Dumbarton  Castle, 
at  the  junction  of  the  Leven  (Loch  Lomond's  outlet) 
and  Clyde,  is  on  a  i-ock  measuring  1  M.  around  and 
560  ft.  high.  Part  of  it  bears  the  name  of  Wallace's 
Tower.  The  Scottish  hero  was  imprisoned  there ;  and 
his  huge  two-handed  sword  is  still  shown.  Thei'e  is  a 
tradrtioQ  that  Satan  threw  Dumbarton  Rock  at  St. 
Patrick.  The  castle  is  one  of  four  garrisoned  in  Scot- 
land by  the  British  army,  and  commands  the  Clyde  with 
battenet^     It  vas  the  capital  of  a  Roman  province. 


SCOTLAND.  67 

and  afterwards  repelled  tlie  Norwegian  Vikiiigs.  It 
was  held  by  Robert  Bruce  iii  1309 ;  and  in  1571  Capt. 
Crawford  carried  it  by  escalade,  at  night.  In  1652 
it  was  taken  by  Cromweirs  troops.  At  the  portcullis 
may  be  seen  carven  heads  of  Wallace,  and  Menteith, 
his  betrayer.  At  the  summit  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
fort  are  shown.  Queen  Mary  spent  some  time  here. 
2  M.  from  Dumbarton  is  the  village  of  Cardross,  where 
stood  the  old  castle  in  which  King  Robert  Bruce  died, 
in  1329.  Greenock  (Tontine  Hotel;  White  Hart; 
Waverley ;  rly.  from  Glasgow,  Is.  6d.  ;  population, 
80,000)  is  one  of  the  chief  seaports  of  Great  Britain, 
and  very  picturesquely  situated.  Vast  new  docks  are ' 
being  built.  •  The  shipyards  are  amoug  the  largest  on 
the  Clyde.  The  ocean  steamers  for  New  York  take 
their  passengers  and  mails  at  the  I'ail  of  th^  Bank. 
Fine  view,  from  the  shore,  of  the  mts.  of  Argyllshire 
and  Dumbartonshire.  Bums's  "Highland  Mary"  is 
buried  in  the  old  kirkyard.  There  is  a  beautiful  statue 
of  James  Watt,  by  Chantrey,  in  a  memorial  building  in 
Union-St.  Travellers  going  to  Oban  and  Inverary 
should  take  steamer  at  Greenock.  Nearly  opposite  is 
Helensburgh  {Queen's  Hotel ;  Imperial),  a  pretty 
town,  much  frequent,ed  in  summer  by  pleasure-seekers. 
The  Gareloeh  is  the  name  of  a  fine  sea-basin  (steamers 
ply  on  it),  which  stretches  N.  from  Helensburgh  for 
about  7i  M.  Its  shores  are  covered  with  beautiful 
villas,  Roseneath,  Ardiucaple  Castle,  etc.  The  famous 
Glen  Fruin  lies  on  the  E, 

Another  good  excursion  can  be  made  in  one  day 
by  the  Caledonian  Rly.  to  Hamiltou,  passing  through 
Rtitherglenyii  royal  burgh  as  early  as  1126.  Hamil- 
ton {County  Hotel ;  Commercial)  contains  many  inter* 
csting  historical  places.  See  site  of  Kin^f's  Head^  where 
Cromwell  lodgea  during  his  foray  into  Scotland  ;  a»- 


68  HAMILTON  PALACE.  —  LANARK, 

the  old  Steeple  and  Pillofy,  built  in  the  reign  of 
Cliarles  I.  Hamilton  Palace,  seat  of  tlie  Di^e  of 
Hamilton  and  Brandon,  stands  in  a  beautiful  park; 
S  M.  S.  E.  are  tbe  rums  of  Cadzow  Castle.  On  Both^ 
well  Bridge^  2  M.  N.  of  Hamilton,  a  famous  encoun- 
ter between  the  Covenanters  and  the  Royal  forces 
took  place  in  1679.  A  little  beyond  is  Bothtoell,  noted 
for  \\&  old  ch.,  where  Robert,  Duke  of  Rothesay,  was 
married.  BotJx^^ell  Castle  (admission,  Tues.  and 
Fri.,  10-3 ;  see  local  guide-books)  is  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Clyde,  1  M.  from  the  village.  The  ruins  aiford 
an  almost  perfect  example  of  Norman  architecture. 
See  the  circular  towers;  remains  of  the  chapel,  with 
shafted  windows ;  and  a  circular  dungeon  called  Wal- 
lace's  Beef-barrel.  The  walls  are  covered  with  ivy  and 
wild  roses.  The  walk  between  Hamilton  and  Bothwell 
is  extremely  interesting. 

Lanark  (jClydesdale  Hotel)  was  the  scene  of  many 
of  Wallace's  exploits.  There  is  a  statue  of  him  at  the 
parish  ch.  Corra  Linn  is  1^  M.  S.,  a  beautiful  fall 
of  85  ft. ;  and  the  pretty  Bonnington  Linn  is  \  M. 
beyond.  Stonehyres  Linn  is  2 J  M.  N.  of  Lanark,  near 
the  Cartland  Crags.    Tickets  must  be  obtained. 

The  Scottish  Highlands. 

A  Bound  Trip  from  Glasgow  to  Glasgow  by  way  of  Loch 
Lomondy  Lock  Katrine,  the  Trossachs,  and  Callander ; 
from  Callander  to  Oban :  toith  Excursions  from  Oban  to 
Staffa^  Jona,  and  Inverness ;  and  from  Oban  to  Glasgow, 
by  the  Crinan  Canal  and  Rothesay. 

We  recommend  this  route  as  giving  a  wide  survey 
of  t^ical  Scotch  mt,  lake,  and  coast  scenery,  within 
a  brief  period  and  at  small  cost.  The  trip  through 
^  loclis  and  the  Trossachs  to  Callander  b^«ui  at  the 


SCOTLAND.  69 

Queen-St.  stat.  in  Glasgow,  at  7.40  a.m.  Buy  a  ticket 
for  Inversnaid,  tlie  point  at  which  Loch  Lomond  is 
left  (fare..  9s.  3d.),  and  proceed  by  train  to  Balloch  (20 
M.).  The  route  passes  Dumbarton,  and  gives  a  good 
view  of  Wallace's  Seat;  through  the  valley  where,  in 
the  parish  of  Cardross,  Smolktt^  the  historian  and 
novelist,  was  bom;  and  un  the  fflen  of  the  Leven's 
transparent  water.  At  Bailoch  the  train  stops  close 
to  the  steamer. 

Looh  Lomond  is  certainly  very  beautiful  when  the 
sunlight  plays  upon  the  water  and  on  the  guardian 
mts.  It  is  about  23  M.  long,  and,  at  its  S.  end,  i 
M.  broad.  Under  the  base  of  Ben  Lomond  it  is  12(^ 
fathoms  deep.  The  area  covered  by  water  is  20,000 
acres ;  32  islands  are  scattered  over  the  lake,  bearing 
ruins  of  ancient  monasteries  and  castles.  Most  of  these 
belong  to  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  who  uses  Inchmurrin^ 
the  largest,  as  a  deer-park.  "Loch  Lomond,"  says 
Baddeley,  "  has  neither  the  matchless  depth  and  deli- 
cacy of  coloring  which  characterizes  the  loot  of  Iioch 
Katrine,  nor  the  wild  grandeur  of  Loch  Coruisk,  nor, 
in  fairness  let  us  add,  the  dignity  of  Loch  Maree;  but 
...  it  blends  together  in  one  scene  a  greater  variety 
of  the  elements  wliich  we  admire  in  lake  scenery  than 
any  other  Scottish  loch."  The  steamer  leaves  Balloch 
Castle  on  the  r. ;  passes  to  the  r.  of  Inchmurrin,  with 
its  ruined  Castle,  and  calls  first  at  Balmaha.  Near  by 
is  Inchcailloch,  the  "  Island  of  Women  "  (so  called  be- 
cause a  nunnery  once  existed  there).  It  is  the  burying- 
place  of  the  Macgregors. .  The  next  landing-place  i9 
Jammf  on  the  1.;  a  picturesque  little  village,  with  a 
good  hotel,  i'ine  view  of  the  lake  from  Slrone  Bra* 
hill.  As  the  boat  moves  N.,  the  great  mass  of  Ben 
Lomond  comes  fully  into  view.  Eowardennan,  on  the 
r.,  has  a  hotel.     Here  is  the  best  starting-point  for  *^ 


70  BEN  LOMOND. — TARBET. 

ascent  of  Ben  Lomond,  3,192  ft.  liigh,  and  the  favor- 
itc  climb  in  Scotland.  The  rough  pony-track  begins 
opposite  the  hotel,  and  climbs  over  tne  ridge  between 
Loch  Lomond  and  the  Loch-ard  valley.  Ascents  also 
are  made  from  Inversnaid  and  Aberfoil.  In  clear 
weather  the  castles  of  Stirling  and  Edinburgh,  and  the 
Firth  of  Fortli,  can  be  seen.  Time  from  Rowarden- 
nan,  2-3  lu-s. ;  distance,  6  M. ;  pony  and  guide,  8s. 
Opposite  Rowardenuan  is  Qlen  Douglas  Qnveruglas 
Hotel) y  from  which  point  a  pretty  road  leaas  to  Loch 
Lonff.  Glen  Douglas  can  be  reached  by  ferry  acit>ss 
tlie  lake.  The  boat  moves  on  under  the  shadow  of 
Ben  Lomond,  and  crosses  to  the  1.  bank,  to 

Tarbet  {M^'Pliersm^s  Hotel,  good  but  dear),  charm- 
ingly situated,  8  M.  from  the  head  of  the  loch.  From 
thence  coach  may  be  taken  to  Loch  Long,  or  to  In- 
verary  by  Glencroe  (24  M. ;  fare,  8s.).  Loch  Long 
(salt  water)  is  separated  from  Loch  Lomond  by  a  well- 
wooded  isthmus.  Glencroe  is  a  wild  mt.  pass,  860  ft. 
high.  From  hero  the  road  to  Inverary  turns  N., 
and  skirts  the  upper  edge  of  I/>ch  Fyne.  Inverary 
(^Argyll  Arms ;  George)  is  a  small  town  celebrated 
as  the  Highland  headquarters  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll 
(the  MacCallum  Mor).  Inverary  Castle y  the  ducal 
residence,  is  an  ugly  building  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
grounds.  This  point  may  be  reached  by  other  routes 
from  Glasgow,  especially  by  the  steamer  Lord  of  the 
Isles  (fares,  7s.  6a.,  6s.,  5s.). 

From  Tarbet  cross  Locli  Lomond  to  Inversnaid, 
where  coaches  are  taken  for  Loch  Katrine.  The  head 
of  Loch  Lomond  is  3  M.  above.  1  M.  above  is  Roh 
Rofs  Cave,  a  narrow  opening  in  the  bank  near  the 
water's  edge,  where  it  is  said  that  Rob  Roy  kept  his 
prisoners.  Ardlni  is  the  last  town  on  the  lake ;  couches 
to  Grianlarich  (9  M.),  whence  rly.  to  Oban. 


SCOTLAND.  71 

Inverfluiaid  has  a  comfortable  hotel.  The^  is  a 
ficnimble  for  places  on  the  coaclies  for  Loch  Katrine ; 
and  the  canny  Scot  exacts  2d.  pier  dnes  from  each  person. 
The  InverstMtd  Waterfall  is  where  Wordsworth  met 
tiie  "Highland  Girl,"  of  w>»om  he  sang  so  sweetly. 
Opposite  Inversnaid  is  Inveruglas  hie,  on  which  are 
the  rains  of  an  ancient  castle  of  the  Macfarknes.  The 
road  to  Loch  Katrine  (5  M.)  lies  over  a  very  steep 
liill,  by  the  hovels  pointed  out  as  the  former  homes 
of  Rob  Roy  and  Helen  Macgregor;  the  Fort  of  Invers- 
naid, erected  to  check  the  depredations  of  Rob  Roy's 
band,  —  Gen.  Wolfe  was  once  quartered  there ;  and 
Loch  Arklet,  half-way  to  Stronaclilachar  Pier,  on  a 
bay  near  the  W.  end  of  Loch  Katrine.  At  the  hotel 
here  a  good  lunch  can  be  obtained. 

Loch  Katrine  (or  Cateran,  *'  Robbers'  Lake ")  is 
Glasgow's  reservoir.  The  water  drunk  by  the  760,000 
people  ^hered  on  the  banks  of  the  Clyde  is  conveyed 
from  this  lovely  basin  for  34  M.  The  aqueduct  re- 
quired the  building  of  70  tunnels,  and  cost  £1,500,000. 

A  Lilliputian  steamer  (fare,  2s.  6d.)  carries  you  past 
Ellen's  Isle  (see  "The  Lady  of  the  Lake  "),  the  Silver 
Strand,  and  the  Qohlin^s  Cave ;  and  affords  glimpses 
of  "  huge  Ben  Venue."  The  loch  is  8  M.  long,  and 
averages  f  M.  wide.  To  be  seen  to  advantage,  it  must 
have  plenty  of  sunshine,  and  then  it  seems  "  one  bur- 
nished  sheet  of  living  gold." 

You  land  where  all  the  beauties  of  the  lake  are 
concentrated.  If  you  can,  by  all  means  walk  up 
through  the  gorge  to  the  Trossachs  Hotel  (1  M.).  The 
Troasachs,  the  "bristling  country,"  ^ns  in  loveli- 
ness in  a  rainy  day.  There  is  somethmg  weird  in  a 
ride  through  tiiis  leafy  glen,  with  the  rain  rustling  in 
the  trees.  The  gorge  extends  from  Loch  Katrine  to 
Loch  Achray,  between  the  range  of  Ben  A'an,  on  the 


72     LOCH  ACHRAY.  —  LOCH  VENNACHAR. 

X.  (1,500  ft.),  and  Ben  Venue  (2,393  ft.),  on  the  1.  In 
this  labjriuth  of  rocks  and  mounds,  of  oak  and  rowan 
and  birch,  of  crag  and  grave  and  tarn,  the  most  prosaic 
traveller  niay  well  become  enthusiastic.  Walter  Scott's 
poems  are  good  conipaniojis  here.  You  can  call  up 
memories  ot  Fitz  James  and  his  *'  gallant  grey,"  and 
of  the  "Knight  of  Snowdoun,"  on  his  way  to  the 
Silver  Strand.  In  Scott's  early  days  there  was  no  road 
through  this  pass.  The  Trossachs  Hotel  is  a  pretty 
(and  Sear)  house.  Excursions  thence  to  the  tops  of 
Ben  Venue  and  Ben  A'an,  and  to  the  wild  Pass  of 
Beal-nam-bo. 

Distances  by  Road.  —  Loch  Katrine  to  Trossachs 
Hotel,  1  M. ;  Loch  Achray,  %\ ;  Brigg  of  Turk,  3i; 
Loch  Vennachar,  ^ ;  Coilantogle  Eoid,  7  ;  Callander, 
9^.  Loch  Achray  is  noticeable  for  its  tranquil 
beauty.  It  is  3  M.  long,  and  the  shores  are  clad  with 
<5opse  to  the  very  water's  edge.  "  The  Lady  of  the 
Lake "  will  be  found  tlie  best  guide  here.  You  next 
reach  the  Brigg  of  Turkt  where,  in  the  famous  chase,  as 
Sir  Walter  intorms  us,  "  the  headmost  horseman  rode 
alone."  Near  this  bridge  over  Achray  Water  is  the 
blackened  ruin  of  the  New  Trossachs  Hotel.  Fine 
view  of  Ben  Venue  from  here.  Next  come  the  i)««- 
craggan  Huts;  and  then  Loch  Vennachar  (4  M. 
long),  the  "Lake  of  the  Fair  Valley."  On  the  N. 
shore  is  Ben  Udi,  the  "  Hill  of  God  "  (2,875  ft.).  To 
climb  Ben  Ledi  by  the  Pass  of  Leng  is  an  admirable 
excursion.  Here  you  are  in  the  real  Highland  country. 
The  hills  are  aglow  with  purple  colors  ;  the  black-faced 
cattle  with  widely  projecting  horns  look  down  defiantly 
at  yon  from  the  steep  pasturages;  a  countryman  in 
kilt  trudges  by.  The  coaches  i-attle  past  Cotlantufle 
Ford,  '*  Clan- Alpine's  outmost  guard,"  where  Roderick 
Dhu  challengea  Fitz  James;  and  bring  up  in  Cal- 


SCOTLAND.  73 

laader.  Here  you  may  take  train  to  Stirling  and 
Edinfafui^b;  but  if  you  desire  to  see  the  real  High- 
lands,  continue  on  our  route. 

Callander  (Hotels,  Dreadnouahiy  yex^  good;  Mae- 
gregor,  fair)  is  in  the  centre  of  a  delicious  country. 
1^  M.  from  the  town  are  the  Bracklitm  Folk.  A  pleas- 
ant excursion  may  be  made  througli  tlie  Pass  of  Leny 
to  Strathyre,  returning  by  train  (SJ  M.  to  walk).  It 
is  easy  to  climb  Ben  Ledi  thence  (3  hrs. ;  pony  and 
guide,  10s.),  and  stand  on  the  smooth  green  summit 
where  the  ancient  Druid  fires  were  kept. 

From  Callander  to  Oban.  —  Rly.  fare,  1st  class, 
12s. ;  time,  5-6  hrs.  This  line  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  Scotland,  and  was  one  of  the  most  ex- 
pensive. Including  the  harbor-works  at  Oban,  it  cost 
£645,000.  The  line  crosses  the  Teith ;  skirts  the  base 
of  Ben  Ledi  ;  and  traverses  thePtf*^  of  Leny,  which  ex- 
tends between  Callander  and  Loch  Iiubnaig.  This 
loch  is  5  M.  long  and  1  M.  broad,  and  surrounded  by 
high  mts.  Near  the  Falls  of  Leny  is  the  churchyard 
of  the  Chapel  of  St  Bride,  noticed  in  the  "  Lady  of  the 
Lake.*'  Just  beyond  Loch  Lubnaig  the  rly.  crosses 
the  River  Balcag,  and  passes  Strathyre  and  King's^ 
Home  stat.,  whence  Balquhidder  and  jjoch  Foil  can  be 
visited  (2  M.).  In  the  graveyard  of  the  old  ivy- 
covered  chapel  of  Balquhidder  is  the  stone  said  to  cover 
the  grave  of  Rob  Roy.  The  hamlet  is  intimately 
connected  with  the  liistory  of  the  Macgregors.  The 
road  now  rises,  and  gives  a  good  view  of  Iioch  Bam 
and  Ben  Vorlieh,  on  the  E.  It  next  traverses  Glen 
Ogle.  The  rly.  is  constructed  on  the  side,  300-400  ft, 
above  the  lowest  level.  The  margin  of  Loch  Docharfy 
above  which  rises  Ben  More,  is  next  passed;  after 
which  Crianlarich  stat.  (coaches  to  Loch  Lomond)  is 
reached.    A  fine  stretch  of  Highland  landscape  is  sec^ 


74  LOCH   A.WE.  —  OBA?^. 

shortlj  before  arriving  at  Balmalbf,  Just  beyond  Dal- 
mallY,  Loch  Awe,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  of  the 
Highland  Lakes,  22  M.  in  length,  is  reached.  Near 
it  is  Ben  Cruachan  (3,611  ft.) ;  and  in  the  lake  are 
many  islands,  the  largest  being  the  Island  of  the  Druids. 
At  the  N.  end  stand  the  ruins  of  Kilchum  Castle  ;  and 
in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  on  an  islet,  are  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  castle  of  Ardconnel,  a  former  seat  of  the 
Campbells.  The  rly.  descends  towards  the  head  of 
Loch  Awe,  and  crosses  the  Orchy  on  a  viaduct  From 
Taynuilt,  on  Lock  Etive,  a  steamer  may  be  taken,  and  a 
circular  trip  to  Glencoe  (34  M.)  and  Balachulish  (41 
M.)  begun.  Beyond  is  Connell  Ferry,  near  the  Falls 
of  ConnelL  To  the  r.  stands  the  iyy-mMltled  Ardehat- 
tan  Priory,  built  in  1231  by  the  Lord  of  Lome,  and 
burned  during  the  wars  of  Montrose. 

Oban  (Hotels,  good,  but  expensive  :  Great  Western  ; 
Alexandra;  Caledonian;  Station;  King's  Arms;  and,  on 
the  hill,  the  Oi^and,  on  the  Craigard  Road)  is  the  most 
central  point  for  excursions  through  this  weird  north- 
em  land  of  lochs  and  islands,  which  has  always  had  a 
strange  glamour  of  romance  about  it.  It  is  also  the 
meeting-place  of  southern  fashionables,  and  members 
of  the  iKnglish  nobility  and  the  republic  of  letters. 
Oban  extends  along  and  above  a  pretty  bay,  and  is  the 
most  accessible  place  N.  of  Glasgow.  Vessels  can 
anchor  safely  within  a  few  yards  of  the  shore.  Dunollie 
Castle,  1  M.  distant,  nobly  placed  on  a  T)edestal  of  rock 
at  ^e  N.  end  of  the  bay,  and  covered  witli  ivy,  was 
built  by  the  Lords  of  Lome,  and  is  now  owned  by 
their  descendants  the  M'Dougalls.  The  rocky  island 
of  Kerrera,  4  M.  long,  serves  as  a  breakwater  to  the 
bay.  It  was  here  (in  1263)  that  Haco,  King  of  Nor- 
way, met  the  Highland  chiefs  who  aided  him  in  his 
disastrous  raid  on  the  coast  of  Scotland.    Here,  also. 


SCOTLAND.  75 

Alexander  II.  died,  in  1249.  The  seaward  view  from 
the  heiglits,  reached  bj  Craigard  road,  is  very  fine. 
Scott  made  the  popularity  of  Oban  by  his  poem,  "  The 
Lord  of  the  Isles,"  the  scene  of  which  is  laid  here- 
abouts,  and  in  the  islands  on  the  W.  Fine  promenade 
along  the  bay.  DunstaflEhage  Castle,  4  M.  N.  E., 
was  the  seat  of  the  Scottish  monarchs  for  more  than 
3  centuries  (a.  d.  800>600).  There  was  the  famous 
Coronation  Stone,  finally  removed  to  Westminster. 
Admission  to  the  castle,  free. 

To  Staffa  and  lona  is  a  sea  voyage  of  about  90  M. 
(10  hrs.).  Boats  leave  the  pier  at  8  a.m.  Fare,  about 
20s.,  including  the  landings  at  Staffa  and  lona.  The 
steamer  passes  on  the  r.  Dunollie  and  Maiden  Island^ 
and  the  Lighthouse,  at  the  S.  end  of  Lismore,  near 
which  is  the  Ladv  Rock,  where,  according  to  tradition, 
a  vindictive  Hignlander  left  his  wife  to  perish  by  the 
rising  tide.  The  boat  next^ passes  through  the  Sound 
of  Mull,  which  separates  Mull  from  the  mainland; 
crosses  the  mouth  of  Loch  Aline,  on  whose  shore  lived 
Dr.  Norman  MacLeod,  the  former  editor  of  Good 
Words;  calls  at  Tobermory,  near  the  mansion  of  Alex- 
ander Allan,  of  the  Allan  Line ;  passes  the  Caliach 
Pointy  whence  a  good  view  N.  can  generally  be  had  as 
far  as  Skye;  and  then  goes  S.  to 

The  Island  of  Staffa,  8  M.  from  Mull.  It  is  of 
irregular  oval  shape,  and  1^  M.  around.  This  island 
and  lona  are  owned  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll.  When 
the  sea  is  reasonably  calm,  passengers  are  conveyed 
in  small  boats  into  the  mouth  of  Fingal'a  Cave,  GO- 
TO ft.  in  height,  supporting  an  entablature  of  30  ft* 
additional.  The  pillars  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the 
W.  side  are  36  ft.  high ;  on  the  E.  only  18  ft.  The 
length  is  227  ft.  The  finest  views  are  obtained  througn 
the  end  of  the  causeway  at  low  water.     The  front  and 


76  lONA.  —  CALEDONIAN  CANAL. 

sides  are  composed  of  countless  ranges  of  columns. 
A  shepherd  and  his  wife  were  sent  to  Staifa,  to  take 
*care  of  the  sheep ;  but  the  noise  of  the  waves  was  so 
dismal  that  they  begged  to  be  taken  away.  8  M.  S. 
is  lona  (4  square  M.  in  area),  which  was  founded  in 
the  6th  century  by  St.  Columba  and  the  Culdees,  and 
often  ravaged  by  the  Norsemen  and  Danes.  Visit  the 
ruins  of  the  Numiery  of  St.  Mary,  dating  from  the  13th 
century;  and  the  ancient  Cathedral;  also  the  great 
Stone  Cross y  the  only  one  remaining  of  360  once  stand- 
ing on  the  island,  but  broken  and  thrown  into  the  sea 
at  the  Reformation.  The  run  back  to  Oban  by  the  S. 
•of  Mull  is,  in  fine  weather,  very  charming.  Do  not 
forget  plenty  of  wraps  and  umbrellas. 

Another  excursion,  made  in  one  day,  is  from  Oban  to 
Lonh  Etive,  Glen  Etive,  and  Glencoe,  and  thence  to 
Balachulish,  returning  by  Loch  Linnhe.  Time,  about 
10  hrs. ;  fare,  by  rail  and  steamer,  25s.  Another  is 
from  Oban  to  Ford  by  the  Pass  of  Melfort^  returning 
by  Loch  Awe  and  the  Oban  Rly.  This  may  be  made 
^comfortably  between  9  a.m.  and  5  p.m.  Fares,  17s., 
15s.  6d.  Another  is  to  Fort  William,  Ben  Nevis,  and 
Banavie,  interesting,  but  long,  for  vacation  tourists. 

The  Caledonian  Canal.  —  People  who  have  time 
to  go  to  Inverness  should  take  steamer  through  the 
great  Caledonian  Canal,  built  1803-47,  and  60^  M. 
long.  It  was  necessary  to  cut  through  only  23  M., 
as  tlie  sheets  of  fresh  water  wliich  abound  in  the  Great 
Glen  of  Scotland  were  utilized.  The  depth  of  water  is 
about  17  ft.  The  steamer  going  N.  leaves  Oban  at 
6  P.M.,  and  passengers  sleep  at  Banavie  {Lochiel 
Jrm.%  from  which  fine  view  of  Ben  Nevis).  Loch 
Linnhe,  through  which  the  streamers  pass,  is  famous  for 
beautiful  scenery.  Fort  'William  was  one  of  the 
keys  of  the  Highlands,  built  by  Gen.  Monk.     Note 


SCOTLAND.  77 

inverlochff  Castle,  famous  in  ancient  wars,  near  the 
mouth  ot  the  Lundie.  From  Fort  William  to  Batiavic 
is  3  M.  Ben,  Nevis,  near  here,  4,406  ft.  high,  is  the 
highest  mt.  in  Scotland.  It  is  a  vast  mass  of  brown 
porphyry,  cleft  with  glens  and  fissures;  and  on  its 
crags  the  snow  lies  all  summer.  Tlie  view  is  100  M. 
in  diameter,  including  all  the  chief  peaks  of  Scotland. 
From  Banavie,  the  ascent  (8  M.)  occupies  3^5  hrs. 
(descent,  1\  hrs.).  Glen  Kevis  is  wortli  a  visit.  Shortly 
after  leaving  Banavie,  the  steamer  passes  (on  the  r.) 
the  ruined  Tor  Castle.  On  the  W.  side  of  Loch  Lochy 
see  the  ruined  home  of  Lochiel,  whose  fidelity  and  exile 
are  famous.  Loch  Locby  is  10  M.  long ;  and  a  canal, 
2  M.  in  length,  leads  to  Loch  Oich  (4  M.),  the  central 
lake  of  the  chain,  as  well  as  the  smallest  and  highest. 
On  its  W.  shore  stands  Invergarry  Castle,  burned  in 
the  revolution  of  ,1745  ;  and  near  the  castle  is  "The 
Well  of  Seven  Heads,"  commemorating  the  vengeance 
on  the  murderers  of  the  Keppochs.  At  Aberehalder 
the  steamer  descends  7  locks  to  Fort  Augustus,  Pas- 
sengers can  walk  down  in  about  \\  hrs.  At  Fort 
Augustus  is  the  College  of  St.  Benedict,  a  vast  pile  of 
buildings  in  the  Early  English  Gothic  style.  Loch 
Ness,  *'  the  locli  of  the  cataract,"  is  24  M.  long,  and 
has  a  depth  of  130  fathoms.  At  the  pier  of  Foyers  the 
steamer  stops  long  enough  to  permit  a  visit  to  the 
beautiful  Fall  of  Foyers  (I  M.  S.),  "the  most  magnifi- 
cent  cataract  m  Britain."  The  height  of  the  larger 
fall  is  about  90  ft.  Burns  wrote  a  fine  description  of 
the  scene.  There  is  a  charming  route  along  the  hills, 
between  Foyers  and  Inverness.  This  is  the  country 
for  pedestrian  tours.  At  the  N.  base  of  the  great  peak 
of  MealfouiTonie,  are  the  ruins  of  Urquhart  Castle^ 
oesieged  in  1303  by  the  troops  of  Edward  I.  The 
guides  show  an  arrangement  in  the  windows  for  pour- 


78  INVERNESS.  —  NAIRN. 

ing  molten  lead  on  besiegers.  '  8  M.  from  Urqnhart, 
Loch  Dochfour  is  entered  by  a  narrow  passage,  \  M. 
long;  and  the  steamer  presently  reaches  Muirtotcn,  a 
suburb  of 

InTernesB  {Royal  Hotel ;  Caledonian;  Station;  Im- 
perial). This  venerable  capital  of  the  Highlands  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ness,  where  the 
basins  of  the  Moray  and  Beauly  Firths  and  the  Glen 
of  Scotland  meet  Macbeth,  Malcolm  Canmore,  James 
I.,  Queen  Mai*y,  Montrose,  and  other  famous  Scots  are 
connected  with  its  history.  The  new  Cathedral  of  St, 
Andrew  is  a  beautiful  decorated  Gothic  ch.  6  M .  out 
is  the  battlefield  of  CuUoden,  where  the  hopes  of  the 
House  of  Stuart  were  finally  extinguished,  in  1746. 
The  cairn  of  stones  marks  the  place  where  the  battle 
took  place;  and  the  large  bowlder  shows  where  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland  took  up  his  posftion.  An  excur- 
sion may  be  made  from  Inverness  to  Cavrdor  Castle, 
rendered  famous  by  Shakespeare,  and  a  fine  specimen 
of  the  old  baronial  strongholds.  Splendid  view  from 
the  battlements.  Nairn,  15i  M.  from  Inverness,  is  a 
fashionable  resort  for  sea-bathing.  Near  it  is  Auldearn, 
where  Montrose  won  a  great  battle  over  the  Cove- 
nanters, who  lost  2-3,000  men.  The  Inverness  reffioa 
was  the  scene  of  Hugh  Miller's  geological  researches. 
Persons  who  have  come  from  Oban  to  Inverness  may 

to  down  to  Edinburgh  via  Stirling  (213J  M. ;  fares, 
4s.  6d.,  25s.  lOd.,  18s.). 

From  Oban  to  Olasgow.  —  We  return  by  the 
Crinan  Canal.  This  charming  journey  may  be  made 
between  8  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  (fares,  13s.,  7s.  6d.) ;  and 
we  recommend  it  as  the  best  way  back.  The  steamers 
Jona  and  Columba  are  magnificent  boats,  equipped  on 
an  American  scale  of  comfort.  From  Oban  the  boats 
^  down  the  Sound  of  Kerrera,  pass  Gylen  Castle  and 


SCOTLAND.  79 

ihe  island  of  Mull,  through  the  Firth  of  Lome,  and 
the  Little  Easdale  Sound.  There  are  only  one  or  two 
places  where  the  boat  emerges  into  open  water,  and  so 
nothing  is  to  be  feared  from  sea-sickness.  The  route 
lies  inside  the  island  of  Sell  to  Blackmill  Bay,  and  past 
the  mouth  of  Loch  Craignishy  leaving  Shuna.  and  Luing 
Islandt  on  the  r.  At  Crinan  passengers  are  trans- 
ferred from  the  lona  to  a  little  steamer,  and  carried 
tlirough  the  Crinan  Canal,  9  M.  long,  to  Loch  Fyne. 
The  canal  was  built  (in  1801)  to  obviate  the  necessity 
of  doubling  the  Mull  of  Kintyre,  a  dangerous  route  of 
70  M.  The  views  are  pretty,  and  the  passage  of  the  9 
locks  is  curious ;  but  the  journey  is  fatiguing.  At 
Ardrishsug  passengers  go  on  the  Columba,  a  largo 
and  fine  steamer.  Dinner  is  served  on  board  (3s.). 
Look  well  to  your  baggage.  From  Ardrishaig  the  boat 
moves  down  Loch  Fyne  to  Tarbert,  Good  views  of 
the  peaks  of  Ben  Cruachan  on  the  N.,  and  the  Arran 
mts.  on  the  S.  After  a  pleasant  passage  through  the 
picturesque  Kyles  of  Bute,  a  strait  between  Bute  and 
the  mainland,  the  boat  touches  at  Rothesay  (J)ueett*s 
Hotel ;  Victoria ;  Bute  Arms),  a  handsome  town  of 
about  8,000  inbab.,  the  capital  of  the  island  of  Bute 
(18  X  5  M.  in  area),  standing  by  a  fine  bay.  Here  are 
the  ruins  of  Uothesay  Gastle,  built  before  1100  ; 
and  once  a  royal  residence.  The  dukedom  of 
Rothesay  was  the  first  conferred  in  Scotland.  The 
brother  of  the  Earl  of  Argyll  burned  the  castle  in 
1685.  See  the  ruins  of  the  choir  of  the  old  Kirk  of 
S^.  Marf,  s  Rothesay  is  a  favorite  summer-resort.  The 
climate  is  very  mild  and  genial.  Consumptive  invalids 
have  found  a  decided  bepefit  at  Rothesay.  Hydro- 
pathic establishments  near  the  town.  From  Rothesay 
to  Dunoon  (Argyll  Hotel ;  Crown  ;  Royal)  is  a  sail  of 
10  M..    Dunoon  is  one  of  the  large  watering-places  o*^ 


80  STIRLING. 

the  Clyde,  and  the  neighborhood  is  picturesque.  From 
Dunoon  to  Greenock,  8  M.  by  steamer.  Passengers 
can  save  about  1  hr.  by  taking  train  from  Greenock  to 


Gkusgow  to  StirlinfiT,  Perth,   Dundee, 
Aberdeen,  and  Edinburgh. 

We  now  recommend  the  traveller  to  go  by  rail  (30  M.; 
fares,  5s.  lOd.,  2s.  5d.)  from  Glasgow  direct  to 

Stirling  {Golden  Lion  Hotel ;  Royal;  Station),  one 
of  the  most  interesting  towns  in  Scotland.     It  is  on 
the  river  Forth ;  and  its  Castle  stands  on  the  top  of  a 
huge  rock  overlookinff  the  broad  Carse  of  Stirling. 
Here  Alexander  I.  died  in  1124;  and  in  1304  the  stout 
fortress  sustained  a  three-months'  siege  by  Edward  1. 
All  the  besieging  implements  iu  the  Tower  of  London 
were  brought  up ;  and  it  was  due  to  one  of  these  ter- 
rible eneines,  called  "  The  Wolf,"  that  the  castle  sur- 
renderea.     This  was  the  key  of  the  main  passage 
between  the  N.  and   S.   of  Scotland.     Edward   II- 
fought  the  fatal  battle  of  Bannockbuni,  in  his  endeavor 
to  raise  the  siege  laid  to  the  proud  castle.    Edwai-d 
Balliol  captui-ed  it  after  the  death  of  Bruce ;  and  King 
David  recovered  it  only  after  a  violent  siege.     It  was 
a  royal  residence  under  the  Stuarts.    James  II.  and 
James  V.  were  born  here*;  James  III.  built  the  Par* 
liament  House;  James  IV.  made  it  his  favorite  resi- 
dence.   James  V.  built  the  Palace,  which  occupies  the 
S.  W.  portion.    The  sculptures  are  very  rich  and  ffro- 
tesque.    A  few  of  the  original  "Stirlmg  heads*  — 
W3oden  effigies  of  the  Scotch  kings  —  may  be  seen  in 
the  old  Court-room  in  Broad-St.     Stirling  Castle  was 
taken   by  Gen.  Monk  in  1651,  and  beat  off  Prince 
Charles  in  1745.     In  the  Douglas  Room  the  powerfoJ 


SCOTLAND.  81 

Earl  of  Douglas  was  stabbed  by  his  sovereign.  Stirling- 
Castle  is  now  an  infantry  barrack.  The  View  fr<m  the 
BattlefMnts  is  imposing.  The  Vale  of  Menteith,  Ben 
Lomond,  Ben  Venue,  !Ben  A'an,  Ben  Ledi,  are  all  dis- 
tinctly seen.  N.  E.  are  the  Ochil  Hills ;  S.,  the  Campsie 
Hills ;  and  on  the  N.,  the  Abbey  Craig,  Cambusken- 
neth  Abbey,  the  Wallace  Monument,  and  the  Bridge 
of  Allan.  See  The  Bruce  Monument;  The  Back  Walk, 
W.  of  the  Castle  Rock;  the  Gre^riars  CL,  erected 
ill  1494  by  James  IV.  (James  VI.  was  crowned  there 
in  1567,  and  John  Knox  preached  the  Coronation  ser- 
mon) ;  Argyll's  Lodging  and  Mar's  Work,  the  most 
interesting  of  the  old  houses;  the  Town  House,  in 
Broad-St.,  in  front  of  which  Hamilton,  the  last  Catholic 
Archbishop  of  Scotland,  was  hanged,  in  1571 ;  Cowan* s 
Hospital;  the  Cemetery  (many  statues),  S.  of  the 
Esplanade ;  the  Old  Bridge,  near  which  was  fought  the 
battle  of  Stirling  (1297),  when  the  Scots  under  Wallace 
defeated  the  English.  A  carriage  to  the  Castle  costs 
2s.  6d. 

Excursions  from  Stirling.  —  To  Cambuskenneth 
Abbey  (1  M.),  founded  in  1147,  and  once  the  rich- 
est abbey  in  Scotland.  —  To  the  Wallace  Monument 
(by  tramway,  2d.),  a  tower  220  ft.  high,  on  a 
rock  called  Abbey  Craig  (560  ft.).  — To  Lake  of  Men^ 
ieith  and  beautiful  Aberfoil,  on  the  river  Forth.  —  To 
Bridge  of  Allan  (3  M.),  resorted  to  for  the  Airthrey 
chalybeate  water.  Dunblane  {Stirling  Arms),  near 
by,  is  celebrated  for  the  Cathedral  of  St.  hlane,  a 
good  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.  It  was  rebuilt 
in  1240,  and  shattered  by  the  Reformers  in  1559. 
Battlefield  of  Sheriffmuir  (1715)  close  by.  Beyond 
Dunblane,  is  Doune  Castle.  —  To  Bannockbiirn» 
where  Robert  Bruce  and  30,000  Scots  defeated  Edward 
II.  and  100,000  EDglisnmeD,  restoring  me  indepe*^ 
___    • 


S2  PERTH.  —  DUNKELD. 

dence  of  Scotland.  —  To  the  noble  ruins  of  lAtUUhgow 
Palace,  —  a  favorite  seat  of  the  kings  of  Scotland. 

Perth  {British  Hotel ;  Royal  George;  Queen* s ;  Salu* 
iation)  may  be  visited  from  Stirling  (69  M. ;  fares,  5s. 
6d.,  4s.  2q.,  2s.  Qdv).  It  is  a  superbly  situated  city, 
of  30,000  inhab.,  with  monuments  to  Scott  and  Prince 
Albert,  and  a  handsome  new  Anglican  cathedral.  In 
the  quaint  Ch.  of  St.  John^  John  Knox  preached.  The 
North  Inch  and  South  Inch,  by  the  side  of  tbe  Tay,  are 
the  parks  of  the  city,  and  were  the  scene  of  the  battle 
described  in  The  Fair  Maid  of  Perth.  When  Agricola 
established  Koman  camps  hereabouts,  Perth  was  af- 
ready  a  town;  aud  from  the  overthrow  of  the  Picts 
until  1437  (600  years)  it  was  the  capital  of  Scotland. 
In  1210  it  became  a  royal  burgh ;  iu  1310  Robert 
Bruce  stormed  its  walls;  and  in  1437  James  I.  was 
murdered  here.  An  old  house  in  Curfew  Row  is  be- 
lieved to  be  that  descnbed  by  Scott  as  the  home  of  the 
''Fair  Maid."  Scone  Palace,  on  the  site  of  the 
famous  old  Abbey  of  Scone,  in  which  the  Scottish  kings 
were  crowned,  is  2^  M.  N. 

The  Highland  Rly.,  which  extends  144  M.  from 
Perth  to  Inverness,  and  161  M.  from  Inverness  to 
Wick,  passes  througli  some  of  the  loveliest  scenery  in 
Scotland.  Dunkeld  {Athole  Arms),  on  this  Hue, 
16  M.  from  Perth,  has  a  rare  old  cathedral,  and  is  close 
to  Bimam  Hill.  On  this  line  also  is  the  Pass  of  Killie- 
-crankie,  a  remarkable  bit  ol  glen  scenery.  The  field 
where  Dundee's  Highland  clans  crushed  William  III.'s 
redcoats  in  1689,  is  near  by.  Pitlochrie  (Fisher'jf 
Hotel)  and  Blair  Athole  {Athole  Arms ;  Bridge  of 
Tilt)  are  the  best  points  for  excursions. 

From  Perth  a  trip  can  be  made  (22  M.;  fares,  3s.  6d., 
2s.  6d.,  Is.  9d.)  to  Dundee  {Queen' s  Hotel ;  Royal; 
lioyal  British;  Imperial)  the  third  town  in  Scotland  in 


SCOTLAND.  83 

population  (150,000),  and  the  principal  seat  of  the  Brit- 
ish linen  and  jute  trades.  It  is  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Tay,  13  M.  from  its  mouth,  and  has  a  fine  range  of 
docks,  covering  40  acres.  See  the  Cutioms  Offices^ 
and  the  Royal  Arch  ;  also  the  Etmlanade,  running  from, 
the  Craig  Pier  to  Magdalen  roint,  where  the  Tay 
Bridg'e  had  its  N.  terminus.  A  square  tower,  150  ft. 
high,  is  all  that  remains  of  old  St.  Mary's  Ch.,  founded 
by  David,  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  on  his  return. from  the 
Crusades.  The  Roi/al  Exchange,  in  Albert-Square,  the 
Albert  Institute,  and  tlie  Free  Library  are  worth  visit- 
ing. Within  easy  reach  of  Dundee  or  Perth  is  Brechin, 
with  interesting  ruins  of  a  cathedral  and  castle,  and  an 
ancient  round  tower ;  Montrose^  a  quaint,  little  seaport, 
once  a  royal  burgh ;  Dunottar  Castle,  towards  Aber- 
deen, a  huge  ruin  on  a  rock  in  the  sea ;  and  Arbroath, 
a  busy  port,  with  fine  ruins  of  an  abbey  fomided  in 
1178.  15  M.  S.  (by  rly.)  is  St.  Andrews,  a  grave, 
neat,  and  picturesque  port,  with  tlie  oldest  university 
in  Scotland  (founded  1411),  and  the  Madras  College. 
It  is  "  a  perfect  Nineveh  of  ecclesiastical  ruins,"  having 
the  remams  of  a  noble  cathedral  and  priory,  the  mystiC- 
rious  Tower  of  St.  Regulus,  part  oi  the  castle-palace 
of  the  primates  of  Scotland,  a  beautiful  fragment  of  the 
Domimcan  monastery,  and  two  fine  old  chs.  From 
Dundee  to  Porfar  (21  M.;  fares,  3s.  8d.,  2s.  9d.,  Is. 
9d.)  is  a  pleasant  journey.  In  the  County  Hall  of 
Forfar  is  preserved  the  Witch's  Bridle,  placed  as  a  gag 
on  the  mouths  of  the  miserable  victims  burned  for 
witchcraft.  Olamis  Castle,  5  M.  W.  of  Forfar,  is 
a  grand  old  baronial  edifice,  celebrated  by  Scott  and 
Shakespeare.  From  Forfar  those  who  have  the  time 
may  go  along  the  coast  (fares,  9s.  6d.,  7s.  2d.,  4s.  9d.) 
to  Aberdeen  {Imperial  Hotel ;  Palace ;  Douglas's). 
Steamers  to  Leith  and   Jjondon ;   and  N.   to  Wio^' 


84  ABERDEEN.  —  BALMORAL  CASTLE. 

Thurso.  Kirkwall  (the  Orkneys),  and  Lerwick  (the 
Shetlands).  Aberdeen,  **  the  Cfranite  City,"  is  a  finely 
built  town  of  105.000  inh.  on  a  cluster  of  hills  on  the 
Dee,  at  its  mouth .  The  Dee  is  crossed  by  four  hand- 
some bridges.  Uniott-Si.,  1  M.  lon^,  with  its  vista  of 
grayish  white  granite,  is  niuch  admired.  The  ancient 
K  and  W>  €hs,  contain  some  cuiious  monuments,  and 
tb^  tomb  of  Beattie  the  poet.  See  the  statue  of  Prince 
Albert ;  the  handsome  Gothic  Town  and  County  Build- 
ings ;  the  Cro9s,  built  in  1686,  and  covered  with  medal- 
lions of  the  Scottish  monarchs ;  and  the  handsome 
Marischal  College  (founded  in  1593).  The  docks  cover 
34  acres,  and  admit  the  largest  ships.  The  Aberdeen 
clipper-shins  are  famous  the  world  over.  1  M.  N.  hes 
Old  Aberaeen,  the  site  of  the  ancient  Kind's  College 
(1494),  famous  for  exquisite  wood-carving,  in  chapel ; 
and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Machau  The  Auld  Brig  o* 
Balgownie,  celebrated  by  Byron  iu  Don  Juan,  is  ^  M. 
N.  The  Deesidc  Rly.  runs  to  Ballaler  (434  M. ;  fares, 
6s.  lOd.,  3s.  7id.),  whence  coaches  to  Braemar  (18 
M. ;  fares,  5s.,  4s.;  to  Balmoral,  2s.  6d.,  2s.) ;  and 
tx)urists  who  have  visited  Aberdeen  may  return  this 
way.  Between  Ballater  and  Braemar  stands  Balmo- 
ral Castle,  tlie  favorite  residence  of  Queen  Victoria. 
It  is  in  the  Scottish  baronial  style,  and  consists  of 
two  blocks,  connected  by  wings.  The  property  was 
bought  by  Prince  Albert,  and  comprises  10,000  acres 
of  cleared  land,  with  30,000  acres  of  deer-forest  Brae- 
mar (^Invercauld  Arms  ;  Fife  Arms)  is  in  the  midst  of 
a  wildly  picturesque  country.  From  this  point  one 
may  pash  on  to  Glen  Tilt  and  Blair  Aihole,  and  come 
down  through  the  Killiecrankie  Pass  to  Perth.  Trav- 
ellers who  do  not  wish  to  visit  Aberdeen,  etc.,  can  go 
from  Dundee  to  Ediabui-gh  by  BurntislatuU 


SCOTLAND.  85 


Edinburgh,  Melrose,  AbbotsforcL 

Many  persons  will  qontent  themselves,  after  the  trip 
through  the  Trossachs,  to  Oban  and  down,  with  a  trip 
from  Glasgow  to  Stirling  and  Edinburgli.  The  direct 
routes  between  the  two  principal  cities  of  Scotlaad  ar& 
uninteresting.  Time,  li-2J  hrs. ;  iares,  by  express, 
train,  Bs.  6d.,  5s.  Distance,  48  M.  (Stirling  to  Edin- 
burgh, 5s.  6d.,  3s.  lid.,  2s.  6d.). 

Bdinburgh  {Edinburc/h  Hotel,  opposite  Waverley 
Bridge ;  Royal,  opposite  the  Scott  Monunvent ;  Wind- 
%0T  ;  Bedford;  Clarendon  ,-  The  Central ;  Eutland  / 
North  British)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in 
Europe  ;  and  history  and  legend,  uniting  their  charms,, 
have  made  it  especially  fascmating  to  the  traveller.  It 
has  345.000  inhab.  (suburbs  included).  It  is  situated 
in  the  N.  part  of  Midlotliian,  nearly  2  M.  from  the 
Firth  of  Forth.  A  large,  open  valley  divides  it  into 
the  Old  and  New  Towns,  the  one  a  kind  of  epitome  of 
the  strange  history  of  Scotland  for  the  last  500  years  •,. 
and  the  other  a  singularly  liandsome  and  well-built 
modem  town.  There  is  a  striking  resemblance  be- 
tween Edinburgh  and  Athens;  and  it  was  from  this 
fact  that  the  Scottish  capital  acquired  its  titie  of  the 
"Modern  Athens."  A  fire  destroyed  tlie  town  in 
1537;  and  the  oldest  date  on  any  private  house  is 
1657.  It  was  opposite  the  sloping  ridge  of  rock,, 
called  Arthur's  Seat  (because  King  Arthur  defeated 
the  Saxons  near  by),  that  King  Edwin,  who  gives  his. 
name  to  the  city,  founded  his  "  burgh "  in  the  7tb 
century.  For  400  years  the  city  formed  part  of  the 
Northumbrian  kingdom.  Early  in  the  11th  century 
Lothian  with  its  castle  was  adJed  to  the  kingdom  of 
the  Scots.  The  city  was  long  the  favorite  capital  ol 
the  Stuarts. 


8u  EDINBURGH. 

Prlnces-St.  is  a  terrace,  separated  from  the  Old 
Town  by  a  broad  valley  of  garaens.  In  the  E.  gar- 
dens stands  tlie  Scott  Monument  (built  1840-44), 
the  niches  of  which  are  filled  with  figures  of  the 
great  novelist's  heroes  and  heroines.  ^Beneath  the 
central  canopy  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  A 
staircase  leads  to  the  top  (200  ft.).  Near  by,  stand 
bronze  statues  of  Livingtone,  Adam  Black,  and  Prof. 
Wilson  (Chs.  North).  The  gardens  are  divided  into 
two  sections  bv  the  Mound,  on  which  stand  the  beauti- 
ful classic  buildings  of  the  Royal  Institution  and  the 
National  Gallery.  Tlie  former  contains  tlie  National 
Museum  of  Antiquities  and  the  Statue  Gallery  (free 
Mon.,  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.,  10-4 ;  6d.  Thiirs.  and 
PrL).  In  the  Museum,  note  John  Knox's  Pulpit  from 
*^t.  Giles's  Church ;  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant 
of  1638,  signed  by  Montrose  ;  the  Kue  Ribbon,  worn 
i)y  Prince  Charles  as  Knight  of  the  Garter ;  the  Tor- 
iurin^  Maiden;  and  many  Celtic  and  Roman  antiqui- 
ties. The  School  of  Lesion  in  this  building  has  many 
|)upils.  The  National  Gallery  (open  daily,  10-4  ; 
id.  fee  on  Thurs.  and  Fri.)  is  S.  of  tlie  Royaf  Institu- 
tion. Here  are  good  paintings  by  Van  Dyck,  Vero^ 
nese,  Watteau,  Teniers,  Reynolds,  Hogarth,  Land- 
seer,  and  Wilson.  The  annual  exhibitions  of  the 
Royal  Scottish  Academy  take  place  here  from  Feb.  tc 
May,  Flaxman's  statue  of  Burns  is  here.  See  in  W. 
Princes-St.  Gardens  statue  of  Allan  Ramsay,  the  Scot- 
tish pastoral  poet.  Nearly  opposite  the  University 
CJlub  is  a  statue  of  the  famous  physician.  Sir  James 
Simpson.  In  the  W.  churchyard  is  the  grave  of  Thomas 
<le  Quiucey.  Near  the  Caledonian  stat.  is  Castle  Ter- 
race, on  wliich  stands  the  Svnod  Hall  of  the  U.  P. 
CJhurch.  Crossing  the  rly.  from  the  W.  garden  you 
reach  tlie  base  of  the  Castle  Rock,  and  may  ascend 


SCOTLAND.  87 

by  the  WellAonse  Tower  (a  part  of  the  first  town  wall» 
erected  in  1450)  to  the  uppermast  walk. 

The  Castle  stands  on  a  pre  jpitous  rock  aboat  30G 
ft.  above  the  valley,  accessible  only  from  the  E.  side. 
This  was  an  impregnable  stronghold  before  the  days  of 
gunpowder.  To-day  it  is  an  infantry  barrack  for  1,200 
men,  and  has  an  armory  containing  30,000  stand  of 
arms.  The  so-called  Half-Moon  Battery  faces  to  the 
N.  E.  The  main  approaches  to  the  castle  are  by 
High-St.  and  Castle  Hill.  See  the  Stone  Cross  erected 
to  Scottish  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Indian  mutiny. 
You  enter  the  castle  by  crossing  a  drawbridge  over  a 
moat.  See  the  State  Prison,  where  many  adherents  of 
the  Stuarts  were  confined.  On  the  r.  is  the  Argyll 
Battery  ;  a  little  beyond,  the  Armory,  the  Prison,  the 
Old  Palace  Yard,  and  the  Crown  Room  (open  daily, 
11-3).  Here  are  the  Regalia,  sometimes  called  the 
Honors  of  Scotland.  Thev  consist  of  a  crown  (Robert 
Bruce's,  with  which  Charles  II.  was  crowned),  sceptre^ 
sword  of  state  (given  by  Pope  Julius  II.  to  James  IV.),. 
treasurers  rod  of  office,  etc.  Queen  Mary^s  Room  is  a 
small  apartment  in  which  Queen  Mary  gave  birth  to 
James  Vl.  On  the  wall  is  a  black-letter  inscription, 
with  the  Scottish  arms.  On  the  Bomb  Battery  stands 
Mons  Meg,  an  enormous  gun  made  at  Mons,  in  Bel- 

ium,  in  1476,  of  thick  iron  bars  hooped  toggtfaer. 

^rom  this  battery  see  the  whole  of  Edinburgh  and  en- 
virons. Here  is  Queen  Margarefs  Chapel,  the  oldest 
and  highest  part  of  the  castle,  built  about  1050,  and 
named  for  Malcolm  Canmore's  Saxon  queen.  The 
cjastle  has  been  captured  by  Henry  II.,  Edward  I., 
Bruce,  Sir  Wm.  Douglas,  and  Cromwell ;  and  repulsed 
Prince  Charles's  army. 

High-8t  was  once  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe ;  but 
its  quaint  old  houses  now  compare  but  poorly  witb 


88  EDINBURGH. 

those  in  the  New  Town.  Note:  Cannon-ball  (fired 
from  tlie  castle  in  1746)  stiekinff  in  the  gable  of  the 
old  mansion  of  the  Duke  of  Gordon ;  Ramsay  Lane^  on 
the  L,  where  lived  Ramsay  the  poet ;  the  General  As- 
sembly Rail  of  the  Church  of  Scotland.  It  was  along 
tlie  W.  Bow  that  Montrose  and  Argyll  were  conveyed 
in  the  executioner's  cart  to  the  Grassmarket,  the  place 
of  public  execution.  On  the  1.,  Jameses  Courty  where 
David  Hume  wrote  part  of  his  History  of  England, 
and  where  Boswell  entertained  Johnson  in  1773,  and 
PaolL  Bums  lived  in  Baxter's  Close,  and  Cromwell 
in  Byre's  Close.  In  Bank-St.,  the  splendid  Bank  of 
Scotland',  on  the  r.  the  County  Hall,  near  the  open 
space  where  stood  the  old  Tolbooth,  called  The  Heart 
of  Midlothian.  The  Tolbooth  was  the  House  of 
Parliament,  the  pincipal  Court  of  Justice,  and  the 
prison.  Midway  in  High-St.  is  St.  Giles's  CA.,  whose 
tower  is  terminated  by  a  huge  imperial  crown,  visible 
from  afar.  The  origmal  ch.  was  built  before  1350, 
and  was  the  cathedral  of  Edinburgh.  Knox  minis- 
tered here,  and  here  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant 
was  signed.  The  Reformers  cast  out  40  images  of 
saints,  and  divided  the  builduig  by  partitions,  so  that 
now  three  congregations  worship  therein.  James 
VI.,  when  about  to  ascend  the  English  throne,  here 
took  leave  of  the  citizens.  In  the  Crypt  are  the  tombs 
of  Mcjitrose  and  the  Bcgent  Murray.  S.  of  St.  Giles 
is  Farliament  Square.  See,  in  the  pavement  here,  a 
stone  inscribed  "I.  K.  1572,"  which  marks  the  grave 
of  John  Knox.  Also,  an  equestrian  statue  of  Charles 
II.  On  the  S.,  Farliament  House,  a  modem  Italian 
structure,  now  used  as  courts  of  justice.  Parliament 
Hall,  122  ft.  long  and  49  wide,  is  very  handsome.  See 
statues  and  portraits  of  the  Scottish  jurists.  Near  by 
are  the  Advocates'  Library  and  the  Sigfiet  Library, 


SCOTLAND.  89 

The  first  contains  300,000  vols.,  and  a  vast  collection 
of  MSS.  See  here  the  Mayeuce  first  edition  of  the 
Bible.  On  the  N.  E.  side  of  St.  Giles's  Ch.  see  the 
aty  Cross.  Opposite  is  the  Royal  Exchange.  Where 
High-St.  is  intersected  by  the  N.  and  S.  Bridges  stands 
the  Tron  Chnroh,  named  from  a  public  tron,  or 
weighing-machine.  When  the  shopkeepers  weighed 
falsely  they  were  nailed  up  by  tlie  ears.  Farther 
down  is  John  Knoxs  House  (open  Wed.  and  Sat., 
10-4 ;  6d.).  The  interior  is  a  laoyrinth  of  small  and 
low-ceiled  rooms.  On  the  outside  is  the  inscription : 
*^Lofe  .  Qod  .  aboue  .  al  .  and  .  yovr  .  nichtbovr  .  as  . 
yi  .  self"  Here  Knox  lived,  — 1569-72,  —  and  here 
he  died.  From  Knox's  house  to  Holyrood,  High-St., 
is  -called  Canongate.  On  the  L,  Canongate  Tolboothy 
built  in  1591.  Back  from  the  street,  the  Ch.  of  the 
Canons,  built  in  1688.  In  the  Cemetery  are  buried 
Adam  Smith,  Dugald  Stewart,  and  other  celebrated 
Scots.  On  the  L,  Queensberry  House,  an  ancient  ducal 
palace,  where  the  poet  Gay  once  dwelt ;  now  used  as  a 
house  of  refuge. 

Holyrood  Palace  and  Abbey  was  founded  by 
King  David  I.,  who  is  said  to  have  beon  saved  from 
the  horns  of  a  stag,  driven  to  bay  near  this  spot,  by  a 
luminous  cross  in  the  sky.  The  Holv  Rood,  which 
David  intended  to  deposit  there,  was  a  iVagment  of  the 
True  Cross.  The  palace  (fee,  6d. ;  free  on  Sat.)  was 
begun  by  Charles  IV.,  and  burned  by  the  English  in 
1514,  and  again  by  Cromwell's  soldiers  in  1650.  The 
most  interesting  section  is  Queen  Mary's  Apartments, 
entered  by  a  door  on  the  N.  side  of  the  inner  court. 
The  rooms  on  the  first  floor  were  occupied  by  Darnley. 
In  the  little  boudoir  Rizzio  was  assassinated  while  at 
supper  with  Mary,  March  9,  1566,  by  Darnley,  Rutb 
ven,  and  others.     The  guides  show  some  dark  stai 


90  EDINBURGH. 

on  the  floor,  said  to  be  Rizzio's  blood.  Tlie  present 
palace  was  rebuilt  in  the  rei^i  of  Charles  II.  The 
picture-gallery  is  hung  with  111  hypothetical  portraits 
of  Scottish  kings.  The  Chapel  Royal  is  a  beautiful 
but  ruinous  fragment  of  the  old  Abbey,  founded  by 
David.  Charles  I.  was  crowned  here  in  1633.  In  the 
vaults  are  buried  David  IL,  James  II.,  James  V.  and 
his  Queen,  amd  Lord  Damley.  Just  S.  of  Holyrood  is 
the  queen's  Park.  Arthiir'B  Seat,  822  ft.  high,  is 
behind  Holyrood.  A  good  road,  the  Queen^s  JDrice, 
runs  round  it.  The  ascent  may  be  made  from  Holy- 
rood  by  crossing  the  Park,  or  by  following  the  drive 
to  Dunsappie  Loch,  and  then  up  from  that  point.  On 
the  hill  ar*  the  ruins  jof  SL  Anthonys  Chapel.  See, 
near  the  park-keeper's  lodge  at  St.  Leonard's  Hill,  the 
cottage  of  **  Jeannie  Deans." 

The  historic  CowgatSy  built  in  1500,  is  now  one  of 
the  dirtiest  lanes  in  the  Old  Town.  It  ends  in  the 
Grassmarket,  near  the  centre  of  which  is  the  Com 
Exchange,  At  the  head  of  the  Cowgate  stands  the 
house  in  which  Lord  Brougham  was  bom ;  and  in  the 
ch.-yai*d  of  Grey  friars  are  the  tombs  of  the  historian 
Robertson,  Allan  Ramsay,  and  other  famous  men. 
Herlofs  Hospital,  a  magnificent  turreted  quadrangle 
(built  by  Inigo  Jones,  1628-50),  is  worth  a  visit.  The 
University  (session  Nov -April),  at  the  S.  end  of  S. 
Bridge,  was  founded  in  1582  by  James  VI.  It  has 
one  of  the  best  medical  schools  in  Europe.  There 
are  about  2,000  students.  Library,  150,000  vols.  In 
Drummond-St.,  opposite  the  College,  stood  Darnley's 
house,  where  he  was  blown  up  in  1567.  Near  the 
head  of  College  Wynd  stood  the  house  in  which  Walter 
Scott  was  born.  It  was  pulled  down  in  1871.  Be- 
hind the  University  is  the  Edinburgh  lAuseum  qfSciemo^ 
and  Art.    At  the  N.  end  of  George  IV.  Bridjsr*  is  the 


SCOTLAND.  91 

Free  PubUe  Library  erected  mainly  through  the  lib- 
erality of  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie. 

Crossing  the  Mound  into  the  New  Town,  one  finds, 
the  streets  as  wide  and  handsome  as  in  the  Old  they 
are  narrow  and  ugly.  Go  up  Calton  Hill,  at  the  E. 
end  of  Princes-St.,  and  visit  Nelson's  Monument  (iee, 
3d.);  good  view  from  the  top.  On  this  hill  is  the 
National  Monument  to  the  Scottish  soldiers  who  fell 
In  the  Peninsular  and  Waterloo  campaigns,— an  un- 
finished building,  copied  after  the  Parthenon  at  Ath- 
ens ;  also,  the  Observatory ;  and  the  Dugald»Stewart 
Monument,  copied  from  the  Ohoragic  Monument  of 
Lysicrates  at  Athens.  Just  beyond  is  Playf air's  monu> 
ment.  At  the  base  of  the  hill  is  the  Royal  High  School, 
au  adaptation  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens.  To 
the  8.  is  Bums*s  Monument,  erected  in  1830.  At  the 
comer  of  the  N.  Bridge,  the  Post-  Q^pce.  In  the  Regis- 
try Office,  on  the  r.  at  the  end  of  Princes-St..  are  auto- 
graph letters  of  Queen  Mary,  etc.  See  WaverleyBndge. 

Other  Objects  ^  Interest.— The  BoyaX  Bank,  in  St. 
Andrew-Square ;  the  bronze  statues  of  Pitt  and 
George  IV.,  by  Chan  trey ;  St.  Andrew's  Ch.;  statue 
to  Chalmers,  the  Scottish  divine;  the  Scottish  National 
Memorial,  erected  in  1878,  bas-reliefs  illustrative  of 
the  Prince  Consort's  career ;  the  Edinburgh  Phito- 
eophical  Institution  in  Queen-St. ;  the  statelyi^'^vpa^ 
CkUhedral  of  St,  Mai'y,hui[t  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott ;  the 
Ikan  Bridge,8pajining  the  Water  of  Lei  th,  106  ft.  high; 
the  Dean  Cemetery,  where  Lords  Jeffrey,  Cockburn,. 
Rutherford  and  Murray,  and  Prof.  Wilson  are  buried; 
the  Fettes  College ;  the  S,  Cemetery,  at  the  Grange, 
where  Hugh  Miller,  Dr.  Chalmers,  and  Dr.  Guthrie 
are  buried  ;  the  Boyal  Bank  Garden;  the  Warriston 
Cemetery,  where  Alexander  Smith  the  poet  is  buried, 

Iieith  (60,000),  the  port  of  Edinburgh,  is  8  M. 
N.,  reached  by  horse-cars  and  steam-cars ;  trains 
every  1-2  hr.    There  are  2  piers  stretching  8,000  ft. 


^2  LEITH.  —  ROSLIN  CHAPEL. 

into  the  Firth  of  Forth.  Walk  down  one,  take  ferry 
across  to  the  other,  and  come  back  on  it.  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  liad  a  brilliant  reception  on  lauding 
here  from  Calais,  in  1361.  Huge  ship-building  yards, 
glass-works,  and  flour-mills  here.  Large  trade  in  com 
and  timber  with  Baltic  ports.  The  Jldert  Dock  covers 
14  acres.  Leith  Fort  was  built  by  Cromwell.  W.  of 
Leith  is  Newhaven  (Peacock  Inn  ;  celebrated  for  fisb 
iiinuers,  2s.  6d.).  Fishwives  remarkable  here  for  their 
costumes,  and  noted  for  their  virtue. 

ZbconrBlons  from  Bdinburgh. — To  GrantonPier^ 
2  M.,  stopping  to  visit  the  lUmtl  Botanic  Gardem  (ad- 
mission free).  Good  view  of  Edinburgh.  Magnificent 
E,  built  by  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  At  Grauton  the 
lish  troops  that  iuvaded  Scotland  in  1544  were 
ed.  From  the  pier,  steam  ferry  to  Burntisland  in 
Fife.  —  To  Trinity,  good  bathing. — To  Hawthomden 
and  Roslin  Chapel.  Train  to  Hawthornden  stat. ; 
fares,  Is.,  lOd.,  8d.  This  charming  mansion,  "  grafted 
on  an  old  fortified  Peel  tower,"  was  built  by  the  poet 
Drummond,  bom  iu  1585  ;  and  here  Ben  Jonson  came 
to  visit  him,  walking  all  the  way  from  London.  Luder 
the  mansion  are  caves,  inhabited  by  natiyes  before 
huts  were  known.  Cross  the  Esk  and  go  along  the 
romantic  glen  to  Roslin  (IJ  M.),  getting  a  fine  view  of 
the  castle  and  chapel,  as  you  leave  the  ravine.  Battle 
fought  in  1302  on  the  Moor  near  by.  Roslin  Chapel 
is  the  choir  of  an  unfinished  ch.,  founded  in  1446. 
Fergusson  thinks  "  the  chapel  owes  its  beauty  entirely 
to  the  profusion  of  its  decorations."  The  castle,  on  a 
mound  below,  is  a  mere  ruin.  The  Valley  of  the  Esk 
is  lovely.  If  you  go  back  to  Edinburgh  by  foad,  you 
can  pass  by  Mominj^tide,  and  see  the  stone  on  which 
James  I.  fixed  his  standard  before  he  set  out  for  FkMkbn 
Field.  —  DalkeUh  Castle,  Netobaitle  Abbef,  Dalhousui 


SCOTLAND.  93 


Castle,  Borthufick  Castle,  Grichton  Cattle,  all  on  or  ] 
the  Esk,  are  well  worth  visiting. 

All  Americans  should  visit  Melrose,  Abbotsford, 
and  Drybnrgh.  Take  express  train  (Pullman  car 
attached)  to  Melrose  stat.  (37  M. ;  1  hr. ;  fares,  /s. 
5d.,  5s.  7d.,  3s.  Id.).  Hotels  at  Melrose :  George ; 
Abbey ;  KMb  Arms.  Melrose  Abbey  was  founded 
by  David  L  in  1126,  and  completed  in  1146.  The 
monks  who  dwelt  there  were  among  the  first  Cister- 
cians in  Scotland.  Tiie  Abbey  was  destroyed  by  Ed- 
ward II.  in  1322,  but  rebuilt  later  under  the  patronage 
of  King  Robert  Bruce.  The  architecture  is  Second 
Pointed,  mingled  with  Flamboyant.  The  present  struc- 
ture dates  from  about  1375.  The  Duke  of  Buccleuch 
now  owns  the  Abbey.  Entire  length  of  edifice,  258 
ft. ;  breadth  of  transepts,  137  ft.  Tlie  Choir,  the  Tran^ 
septs,  the  Nave,  entered  by  a  wooden  gate  at  the  W. 
end,  and  the  8.  Aisle,  are  in  best  preservation.  The 
Abbey  forms  a  Latin  cross,  with  a  square  tower,  84 
ft.  high,  in  the  centre.  Beside  the  high  altar,  under 
tlie  noted  E.  Window,  lies  Alexander  II. ;  and  here  tlie 
heart  of  Robert  Bruce  is  deposited.  The  tomb  of  the 
wizard,  Michael  Scott,  is  in  the  Aisle  of  St,  Mary. 
Note  the  delicate  chisellinff  of  the  outer  side  of  the 
doorway  leading  injx)  the  cloisters.  Over  the  S.  door 
(outside)  is  a  beautiful  sculptured  canopy,  and  above  it 
a  noble  window.  Above  the  E.  window  are  figures, 
supposed  to  be  David  I.  and  his  queen.  Under  the 
fifth  window  is  Sir  David  Brewster's  tomb.  Moonlight 
effects  quite  equal  to  Sir  Walter's  enthusiastic  descrip- 
tion. Some  prefer  to  go  directly  from  Melrose  to 
Abbotsford,  and  to  see  the  Abbey  on  the  return.  A 
one-horse  carriage  to  and  from  Abbotsford  (3  M.)  costs 
6s.  6d. ;  double  team,  8s.  6d.  The  walk  is  a  pleasant 
one.    Persons  in  haste  can  leave  Edinburgh  at  10.30 


94        ABBOTSFORD.  —  DRYBURGH  ABBEY. 

A.M. ;  reach  Melrose  in  1  hr. ;  drive  over  to  Abbots- 
ford,  see  it,  and  return,  in  2  hrs. ;  give  J  hr.  to  Mel- 
rose Abbey ;  lunch  at  one  of  the  hotels  near  by ;  then 
take  carriage  to  Dryburgh  Abbey,  see  it,  and  return  to 
Melrose  by  way  ot  Bemerside  Hill,  in  2^  hrs.;  after 
which  they  can  take  an  evening  train  S.  Abbotsford 
(admission.  Is.)  was  long  the  home  of  the  "Great 
Enchanter  of  the  North."  The  author's  study  is  the 
most  interesting  room.  There  the  old  writing-table, 
the  plain  leatliem  arm-chair,  the  reference  books,  seem 
to  indicate  that  Sir  Walter  has  but  just  left  them. 
The  Ubrary  (20,000  vols.)  contains  a  bust  of  Scott, 
by  Chantrey,  and  many  miniatures.  The  roof  is  of 
carved  oak,  designed  from  models  taken  from  Rosliii 
Chapel.  The  Drawing-room^  where  Sir  Walter  died, 
and  the  httle  octagonal  dressing-room  contain  many 
precious  relics.  The  Armory  has  a  fine  collection  of 
Scotch  weapons.  Not  far  away  is  the  Chiefswood 
Cottage y  where  the  Lockharts  dwelt.  "Thomas  the 
Rhymer"  once  lived  in  the  neighborhood. 

in  Dryburgh  Abbey  (reached  as  above,  or  by  rail 
from  Melrose  to  Newtown  St.  BbswelFs,  and  then  li 
M.  across  country)  Scott  was  buried  (in  1832).  His 
tomb  is  in  the  beautiful  St.  Mary's  Jisle,  and  on  either 
side  are  the  tombs  of  his  wife  and  eldest  son.  Lock- 
hart  also  lies  there.  The  Abbey  (admission,  4d.)  was 
founded  in  1150  bv  Hugh  de  Moreville,  and  destroyed, 
like  Melrose,  bv  Edward  I.  The  Chapter-House  is  still 
entire.  On  a  hill  near  by  is  an  effigy  of  Walkce,  in 
red  sandstone. 

You  can  now  proceed  S.  Stop  at  Durham  and 
York.  Edinburgh  to  London  (9  hrs),  57s.  6d.,  44s.  9d., 
32s.  8d.  ;  Melrose  to  Durham,  19s.  4d.,  148.  lOd.,  8s. 
IHd.;  Melrose  to  York,  27s.  2d.,  20s.  8d.,  14s,  2id. ; 
Edinburgh  to  York,  31s.,  24s.    Pullman  sleeping-car,  8s. 


ENGLAND.  95 

ENGLAND. 
Newcastle,  Durham,  and  York. 

NBWCASTLE-UPOWr-TTNB  {StaUon  Hotel; 
Douglas)  is  a  place'  of  great  industrial  interest. 
It  was  Pons  Aelii,  tlie  second  stat.  on  the  Roman  walL 
Up  to  the  Conquest  it  was  called  Monkchester,  New« 
castle  is  on  3  hills,  on  the  Tyne,  9^  M.  from  its  mouth. 
The  Castle-keep  remains,  with  splendid  great  hall,  ora- 
tory, king's  chamber,  and  museum  of  Roman  antiqui- 
ties. See  /S5^.  Nicholas's  CatTiedrdl (14th  cent.),  with 
fine  spire  and  rare  old  monuments ;  SL  Andrew's,  very 
ancient ;  the  Library ;  the  Ro^al  Arcade  ;  and  Stephen- 
son's High  Level  Bridge.  Elsmek,  2  M.  out,  is  the 
seat  of  Sir  Wm.  Armstrong's  immense  ordnance  works. 
Tijnemouth  has  a  beautiful  ruined  Priory.  Newcastle 
is  enterprising,  but  grimy ;  "  the  dimmest  and  smoki- 
est place  I  ever  saw,'*  says  Hawthorne.  Much  iron 
ship-buildjng  on  the  river.  Population,  with  suburbs, 
176,000.    Made  in  1882  an  Episcopal  see. 

Durham  {County  Hotel;  Three  Tuns),  15  M.  from 
Newcastle,  stands  on  a  hill  almost  surrounded  by  tlie 
river  Wear,  and  is  noteworthy  for  its  Cathedral  and 
Castle.  The  latter  was  built  by  William  the  Conqueror, 
and  is  the  seat  of  an  University.  The  Cathedral 
crowns  the  eminence  on  which  Durham  is  built  It 
was  founded  in  1093,  replacing  an  older  ch. 

**  We  paused  upon  the  bridge,  and  admired  and  wondered 
at  the  beauty  and  gloiy  of  the  scene,  with  those  vast  ancient 
towers  rising  out  of  the  green  shade,  and  looking  as  if  they 
were  based  upon  it.  ,  As  I  saw  it  then,  it  was  grand,  vener* 
able,  and  sweet,  all  at  once ;  and  I  never  saw  so  lovely  an! 


^6  DURHAM. 

magnificent  a  scene,  nor,  being  content  with  tliis,  do  I  wisli 
to  see  a  better."  —  Hawthorne. 

King's  English  Catkedrals  speaks  of  the  "view  of 
the  castle  walls,  and  the  towers  of  the  enormous  cb. 
rising  dose  beside  it,  and  sheer  with  the  faee  of  the 
cliff; "  and,  indeed,  there  are  few  bits  of  English  scen- 
ery lovelier  than  those  in  old  Durham  on  the  Wear 
("This  river  Wear,  with  its  sylvan  wildness,  and  yet  so 
sweet  and  placable,  is  the  best  of  all  little  rivers,"  says 
Hawthorne) ;  or  few  chs.  more  majestic  in  the  midst  of 
a  charming  landscape.  It  contains  the  remains  of  the 
Venerable  Bede  (see  some  of  his  MSS.  in  the  Cathedral 
library);  those  of  St.  Cuthbert,  unearthed  in  1827; 
and  of  Ralph,  Lord  Neville,  who  commanded  at  Ne- 
ville's Cross.  See  The  Galilee,  a  splendid  chapel ;  the 
E.  Transept,  or  Chapel  of  the  Nine  Altars ;  the  magnifi- 
cent Norman  Nave,  with  its  unrivalled  vista ;  the  Chap' 
ter-House,  built  1133-43;  the  Te-Deum  Windme;  the 
Altar  Screen,  dating  from  1380 ;  the  Cloisters ;  the 
Abbey  Gateway ;  etc.  Choral  services  twice  daily. 
Good  views  of  the  Cathedral  from  the  Framwellgate 
Bridge  and  the  rly.  stat.  King  thinks  that  the  cathe- 
drals at  Lincoln  and  Ely  alone  can  be  compared  with 
this  for  majesty  and  beauty.  Prom  St.  Giles's  6%.- 
^ard,  from  the  Prior^s  Path,  and  from  Nine  Trees,  are 
excellent  views.  The  Castle  (fee.  Is.)  was  long  the 
residence  of  the  Bishops  of  the  Palatinate.  See  the 
Keep,  now  occupied  by  students;  the  beautiful  Nor* 
man  Gallery ;  the  Black  Staircase;  the  Great  Rail,  with 
its  many  pictures;  the  tapestry  in  Bishop  TunstalTs 
Gallery;  and  the  very  cnnous  old  Chapel.  Pleasant 
walka  abound.  Excursions  to  Finchale  Priory  (Si 
M.),  dating  from  1496,  and  in  a  lovely  vale  beyond  the 
Kepyer  Woods ;  to  Maiden  Castle,  a  fortress  ascribed 
a  the  Romans,  and  the  Moated  Grange;  to  Neville • 


ENGLAND.  97 

Cross,  commemorating  the  capture  of  David  II.  hj 
Neville  in  1346;  to  Cheiter-le-Street,  6  M.,  with  a 
noble  ch.  built  1286,  near  which  is  Immley  Castle 
(Lord  Scarborough),  with  its  famous  Great  Hall  and 
Ball-Room  (time  of  Edward  I.),  and  Lambton  Castle 

J  Earl  of  Durham).  From  Durham  you  may  proceed 
irectly  to  York  (63  M.;  fares,  8s.  lOd.,  7s.  5d.,  5s. 
6d.).  But  we  recommend  you  to  go  (fares,  7s.  2d.» 
68.,  4s.  5d.)  to 

Ripon  {Unicorn  Hotel;  Crown),  ^  prettjr  city  on 
the  river  Ure.  It  has  been  an  ecclesiastical  site  for  1^ 
centuries.  The  Cathedral  was  begun  in  1154,  roughly 
used  by  the  Scots  in  the  Border  wars,  fell  into  ruin, 
and  was  rebuilt  in  the  1 7th  century.  It  was  restored 
by  Sir  G.  Scott  in  1862-72.  The  most  striking  point 
of  view  is  the  W.  Front.  The  nave  has  a  lofty  clere- 
story, and  an  oak  roof  with  carved  bosses,  and  some 
interesting  old  stained  glass.  The  library  is  in  the  old 
Lady  Chapel,  above  the  chajpter-house  and  vestry.  The 
Choir  Screen  is  a  splendid  pile  of  tabernacle-work.  In 
the  N.  Choir  Hall  was  formerly  placed  the  Shrine  of 
St.  Wilfrid.  Ripon  retains  many  odd  memorials  of 
the  past.  In  High- St.  is  St.  Anne^s  Hospital,  founded 
in  Edward  IV. *s  reign.  In  Stamergate,  chapel  of 
Bx>man  date.  See  the  Hospital  of  St.  Mary  Magdalene 
for  Lexers,  founded  1140.  Fountains  Abbey,  3  M. 
W .,  widiin  the  grounds  of  Studley  Eoval  (Marquess  of 
Ripon),  was  established  in  1132.  The  ruins  cover 
more  than  2  acres ;  and  when  tlie  abbey  was  complete 
it  occupied  12  acres.  Note  almost  perfect  ch.  on  1. 
From  tiie  N.  transept  rises  a  tower.  There  is  also  a 
great  cloister,  and  a  beautiful  vaulted  gallery,  300  ft. 
lone.  The  Chapter-House  has  singular  aisles,  with 
double  row  of  columns.  Here  are  many  tombs  of 
the  abbots.      See,    also,   the  Refectory,   the  FauW 


^8  HARROGATE.  —  YORK. 

Kitchen,  the  Fraier  House,  Returning  to  Ripon,  take 
train  to  York  (28  M.).  On  the  way  is  Harrogate 
{Prospect  BML;  Crown;  Prince  of  Wales),  one  of  the 
most  charming  of  English  watenng-places. 

Tork  {StcUion  Hotd,  large  and  convenient :  Black  , 
Swan;  N,  E.  My,;  /W/w'#),  a  city  of  55.000  inh.,  191 
M.  from  London  (fares  27a.  6d.,  Sis.  3d.,  158.  8d.). 
York  is  said  to  have  been  founded  983  years  b.  c. 
In  150  A.  D.  it  was  a  ^rcat  Roman  station,  bearing 
the  name  Eboracum,  with  an  imperial  palace.  Here 
the  Emperor  Severus  died.  Here  also  Oonstantine 
the  Great  was  perhaps  born,  and  his  father  Con- 
stantius,  died,  in  307.  In  the  Saxon  era  York  waa 
noted  for  the  baptism  of  Edwin  of  Northumbria  by 
Paulinus;  and  afterwards  became  the  favorite  capital 
of  the  Danes,  whose  chief  was  defeated  by  Harold  in 
1066. 

The  visitor  should  first  see  the  City  TRralls,  2f  M. 
around,  interrupted  liere  and  there  by  the  rivers. 
These  walls  were  built  chiefly  in  Edward  III.'s  time, 
but  have  been  often  restored  since.  During  the  siege 
by  the  Parliamentary  forces  they  suffered  very  mucti. 
Ou  the  N.  and  S.  W.  they  follow  the  old  line  of  the 
Roman  wall.  See  Micklegate  Bar,  a  noble  archway  of 
Norman  date,  flanked  by  terraces  with  loopholes  and 
battlements,  and  with  figures  of  men-at-arms.  Heroi 
the  skulls  of  rebels  to  the  Crown  were  formerly  affixed,  i 
Close  by,  St.  Mary* 8  Nunnery.  At  Skeldergate,  cross . 
the  Ouse  by  bridge.  Be^y^ond  the  ferry,  the  Bail  Hill, 
on  which  William  I.  built  his  castle ;  Waltnaate  and 
Monkgate  ;  an  interesting  Norman  Bar,  with  Decorated 
upper  story ;  and  ai  the  Thir^k  Road  one  may  descend 
close  to  the  Cathedral,  or 

Vork  Bffinater,  which  Hawthorne  called  "  the  most 
wonderful  work  that  ever  came  from  the  hands  ol 


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ENGLAND.  99 

men."  A  wooden  edifice  was  built  here  by  Pauli- 
nus.  and  replaced  by  a  stone  basilica,  begun  by 
Edwin  (in  63T).  The  first  Norman  bishop  erected 
a  new  ch.,  which  was  added  to  within  the  next  4 
centuries.  In  1960-1400  the  old  Norman  choir 
was  entirely  replaced  by  the  present  one.  The 
Minster  was  reconsecrated,  July  3,  1472.  The 
total  length  is  524  1-2  ft.  ;  breadth  of  nave,  104  ft. ; 
length  of  transepts,  822  ft.  Height  of  central 
tower,  218  ft.  The  F".  Front  consists  of  a  central 
fapade,  flanked  by  two  towers  (201  ft.).  Tlie  front, 
with  its  3  N.  towers,  is  Decorated.  Tbe  buttresses  ef 
the  towers  are  very  massive.  Between  them  and  the 
portal  are  niclies  filled  with  figures  of  saints.  The  iV^. 
Transept  is  noticeable  for  its  beautiful  Five  Sisters* 
Window,  below  which  is  an  Early  English  arcade. 
The  octagonal  chapter-house^  with  superb  lith-centary 
windows  ("  the  richest  I  ever  saw  or  imagined ;  with 
all  their  brilliancy,  they  were  soft  as  rose-leaves,"  said 
Hawthorne),  is  the  finest  in  England.  Imposing  view 
of  the  choir  and  central  tower.  Magnificent  E.  win- 
dow, and  row  of  sculptured  figures  underneath  the  sill. 
The  S.  Transept  is  fine  Early  English ;  beautiful  rose 
window  here.  The  nave  aisles  are  of  unusual  width. 
Beautiful  view  from  the  aisle  to  the  end  of  the  choir. 
Aisles,  486  ft.  The  great  W.Window,  restored  in  1747,  . 
arouses  the  enthusiasm  of  arch»ologists,  who  compare 
it  for  beauty  and  variety  with  the  E.  window  at  Carlisle. 
The  quantity  and  exauisite  beauty  of  the  stained  glass  will 
remind  the  old  traveller  of  some  of  the  Spanish  cliurches. 
This  glass  miraculously  escaped  damage  when  Fairfax 
took  tne  town  in  1644.  The  Puritans  broke  up  most  of 
the  monuments  and  brasses.  Among  wall  monuments, 
note  those  of  Archbishop  St-erne,  the  Earl  of  Stafford 
(son  of  him  who  was  beheaded),  Archbishop  Scrope,  — 
mentioned  in  Shakespeare's  Uenry  IF.,  —  and  Arch- 


100  YORK   MINSTER. 

bishop  Markbam.  Visitors  should  see  the  nave  m  the 
eveuiug,  when  the  body  of  the  church  is  beautifully 
lighted.  The  Central  Tower  is  remarkable  for  its  mas- 
sive piers.  The  Lantern  Tower,  finished  in  the  15th  oeu- 
tury,  has  a  vaulted  roof,  ISO  ft.  from  the  ground*  The 
N-  Transept  has  an  exquisite  series  of  laucet  windows, 
filled  with  red  glass.  The  chapter- howie  dates  from 
the  14th  century.  "  I  never  saw  a  piece  of  human 
architecture  so  beautiful,"  said  Hawthorne.  Doorway 
of  trefoiled  arches  with  a  shaft,  having  a  niche,  in 
which  is  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Child.  Notice 
the  old  oak  door,  covered  with  scrolled  iron-work.  The 
rich  stone  Roodscreefi,  separating  the  choir  from  the 
nave,  is  in  15  compartments,  each  containing  a  statue 
of  a  king  of  England  down  to  Henry  VI.  The  choir  is 
of  vast  height  and  width,  and  Hawthorne  said  that  its 
pillars  and  arches  are  so  perfect  that  "their  beauty 
throws  a  gleam  around  them."  Its  height  is  102  ft. ; 
width,  99  ft.  The  stained  glass  in  the  clere-storjf  is 
partly  of  the  14th  century,  partly  later ;  as  in  the  choir 
and  in  the  presbytery.  The  great  E,  Window  is  the 
largest  in  England  that  retanis  its  original  glazing. 
It  was  erected  in  1405-8,  and  forms  a  complete  epitome 
of  the  Bible.  The  Crypt  may  be  visited  from  eitlier  the 
N.  or  tlie  S.  aisle.  See  first  the  Freahytery  and  the 
Lady  Chapel,  The  Vestry,  Record  Room,  Treasury^ 
and  Library  (containing:  many  MSS.),  may  be  seen  if 
desired.  The  Horn  of  Ulphus,  laid  on  the  altar  by  one 
of  the  Lords  of  Yorkshire  as  a  sign  that  he  gave  certain 
lands  to  the  Church,  is  in  the  vestry.  Hawthorne  says 
of  this  cathedral :  "  It  seems  to  have  come  down  from 
above,  bruiging  an  awful  majesty  and  sweetness  with 
it ;  and  it  is  so  light  and  aspiring,  with  all  its  vast 
colcfTnns  and  pointed  arches,  that  one  would  hardly 
wonder  if  it  snould  ascend  back  to  heaven  again  by 
its  mere  spirituality." 


ENGLAND.  101 

Other  Objects  of  Interest.  -—Within  tbe  growids  of 
the  Yorkshire  Philosophical  Society,  on  the  Ouse  (fee^ 
Is.)  is  /8S^.  Mary^s  Alhey,  After  the  dissolation,  part 
was  changed  into  a  royal  palace.  See  the  mias  of  St, 
Leonardos  Hospital,  founded  by  Athelstan,  and  rebuilt 
by  Stephen ;  and,  beyond  the  Hospital,  the  Multangular 
Tower,  Roman  below  and  mediaeval  above.  Here  are 
many  stone  coffins  from  the  Roman  cemetery.  Near 
this  is  St.  Olave's  Ch.,  in  the  graveyard  of  which  Etty 
the  painter  lies  buried.  Near  the  river  is  tbe  Museum 
of  Antiquities,  witli  very  interesting  collections.  The 
Museum  oft/ie  Philosophical  Society  QonimwA  a  valuable 
geological  exhibit.  — The  Castle,  now  a  prison,  is  a 
massive  edifice  in  which  occurred  many  events  in  the 
early  history  of  York.  It  was  here  that  the  massacre  of 
the  Jews  by  a  body  of  nobles  and  citizens,  indignant 
at  the  favors  shown  to  the  Hebrews  by  Henry  II.,  took 
place  in  the  reign  of  Richard  I.  Over  the  gateway  is 
a  small  Early  English  chapel.  — All  Saints'  Ch.,  in  North- 
St.,  is  of  ^at  age,  and  contains  Roman  masonry  and 
rich  stained  glass.  See  Holy  Trinity  Ch.,  Kings  Court,. 
St.  Crux  Pavement,  where  the  Earl  of  Northumberland, 
beheaded  in  1572,  is  buried.  St.  Helen  Stonegate,  is. 
dedicated  to  the  mother  of  Constantine.  See  also 
St,  Lawrence,  outside  Walmgate  Bar;  St.  Mary  the 
Younger,  Bishop  Hill;  and  St.  MichaePs,  Spurrier 
Gate.  At  the  latter  the  ringing  of  the  eurfew  bell  is- 
still  kept  up.  The  principal  public  buildings  are :  The 
Mansion  House;  the  Guildhall,  with  nave  and  aisles 
separated  by  oak  pillars^  and  rich  stained  windows ; 
Merchants'  Hall,  in  Fossgate ;  and  St,  William's  Col- 
lege,  founded  in  14()0.  Hawthorne  admired  York's 
•*old  chs.,  gnawed  like  a  bone  by  the  tooth  of  Time." 

Excursions  from  Yorh,  —  To  'Scarborouglt  (Crov^^ 


102  WHITBY.  —  HULL.  —  LEEDS, 

Hotel;  Orand;  Alexandra;  Prince  of  Wales;  BoyaZ; 
jPavilion);  time,  lf-3  hrs. ;  fare»  Ss.  7d.,  4a,  8d., 
•3s.  5^.  This  is  a  Tashionable  seashore  resort  On  a 
promontory  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  Norman  castle. 
The  Spa,  the  Promenade  (6d.),  the  Aquarium,  and 
Oliver's  Mount  (superb  view),  are  reached  by  the 
Cliff  Bridge.  View  from  the  Castle  Rock  very  fine. 
Near  tbe  castle  is  the  venerable  Ch,  of  Si,  Mary, 
{Fares  from  London,  35s.,  26s.  lid.,  19s.  6d.)  —  To 
"Whitby  (Royal  Hotel;  Crown;  Angel),  56i  M. ; 
lares,  7s.  6d.,  6s.  3d.,  4s.  8d.  Wliitby  is  a  summer 
resort,  with  superb  sea-views.  Museum  and  Library 
on  the  W.  pier.  Many  shops  for  the  sale  of  jet. 
Charming  dnves  to  Robin  Hood's  Bay,  Mulgrave 
Castle,  and  along  the  Esk  dales.  Scott's  Marmion 
iias  made  this  region  classic.  Gapt.  Cook's  circum- 
navigating ships  were  built  at  Whitby.  Here  are  the 
venerable  ruins  of  Whitby  Abbey,  where  Hilda  ruled, 
>658'80,  and  Caedmon  paraphrased  the  Bible  in  Saxon 
verse.  —  To  Beverley  {Beverley  Arms),  dating  from 
the  8th  century.  Beverley  Minster  merits  close  studv, 
with  its  superb  Percy  Shrine,  rich  tabernacle-work. 
Lady  Chapel,  and  high-towered  fronts.  St.  Mary's  Ch, 
is  a  splendid  cruciform  building,  with  many  sculptures. 
8  M.  distant  (fares  from  York,  5s.  7d.,  4s.  8d.,  3s.  5id.) 
is  Hull  {Royal  Hotel;  Victoria;  Imperial),  a  town  of 
154,000  inhab.,  ranking  as  a  seaport  next  to  London 
and  Liverpool.  See  the  Holy  THnity  Ch.;  the  Tomn 
HaU  ;  the  Wilberforce  Column  (72  ft.)  ;  8t.  Mary's 
€h.;  the  Trinity  House,  established  1860  ;  the  ancient 
High-St,;  the  Merchants*  Exchange;  and  the  BoycU 
Institution. — To  Leeds  (Queen's  Hotel;  Imperial/ 
Oreat  Northern  Station),  the  chief  town  in  Yorkshire, 
withd60,000inhab.  Itis82M.  f rom York  (fares, 88.6d.» 
^8.  lid. ,  2b,  Hd.y    Coal  and  iron  abound  on  all  sidea 


ENGLAND.  10$ 

Reclus  calls  Leeds  "  fii-st  in  the  world  in  the  voollen 
business."  Tbe  public  buildings  are  masuificent.  The 
Toum  Hall  has  a  tower,  225  ft.  high,  and  4  rich  Corin* 
thian  fagades.  The  Boyal  Excham^e,  the  Mixed-Cloth 
Hall,  the  White-Clotk  Hall  (built  in  1775),  the  New 
Mrmary,  are  all  ou  a  generous  plan.  Near  Leeds  is. 
Kirkttall  Abbey ^  beautiful  ruins  of  ch.,  cloisters,  and 
chapter-house  ;  Temple  Newsam,  rich  inj>aintings;  and 
Weetwood,  noted  for  idyllic  scenery.  From  I^eds  it 
is  8  M.  (time,  \  hr.;  fares.  Is.  2d.,  Is.,  9d.)  to  Brad* 
ford  {Victoria  Hotel ;  Alexandra),  world-famous  for  its 
woollens  and  worsted  yarns.  The  town  (210,000  inhab.> 
is  prettily  situated  in  a  narrow  vale.  The  Town  Hall,. 
of  mediaeval  design,  was  erect^ed  in  1873,  and  has  a 
campanile,  and  a  set  of  chimes,  said  to  be  superior  ta 
those  of  Bruges,  in  Belgium.  Saltaire,  the  model 
town  built  by  Sir  Titus  Salt,  is  4  M.  distant.  The 
factory  covers  12  acres,  and  is  6  stories  high.  Rly. 
hence  (7-8  M.)  to  Keiijhley  Junction,  whence  a  branch 
line  conducts  (4  M.)  to  Haworth  (Black  Bull  Inn). 
The  village  has  been  much  altered  since  the  time  of  the 
Brontes.  The  parsonage,  where  lived  from  1820  to 
1860  tbe  father  of  the  marvellous  girls  who  wrote 
Shirley,  Jane  Eyre,  etc.,  has  been  much  changed.  All 
the  Bronte  family,  except  Anne,  are  buried  at  Haworth. 
There  is  a  tablet  to  their  mempry  in  the  ch. ;  and  Char- 
lotte's signature  may  be  seen  on  the  register.  Many 
Americans  make  pilgrimages  to  this  rude  moorland 
country,  hallowed  oy  the  manifestations  of  genius. 

Manohester,  Linooln»  Derby,  etc. 

We  recommend  the  tourist  to  return  to  Leeds,  auA 
go  thence  to  Manchester.  200  trains  pass  daily  be> 
tween  these  two  towns  (42 1  M.;   fares,   7s.,  5s.  3d., 


lOl  MANCHESTER. 

38. 9d.).  On  the  way  you  traverse  the  Morley  ttiimcl 
(2  M.  long);  and  Haddenfield  {QueeH's  Hotel; 
George),  a  liaudsome  manufacturing  town  of  81,000 
inhab.  Near  b^  is  Kirklees  Hall,  on  the  site  of  the 
nunnery  where,  ii  we  may  believe  the  old  ballads,  Bobia 
Hood  was  bled  to  death  by  a  nun,  and  where  the  oele- 
4)rated  outlaw's  grave  is  shown.  Stanedge  TuMnel  (3  M. 
long)  comes  next.  Near  Ashton-under-Lyne  arc  100 
cotton-mills.  Beyond  Ashton  the  scenery  is  extremely 
beautiful. 

Mtaxchmuter  (Queen's  Hotel;  Grand  Hotel /Victoria* 
AUfion;  2'revdyan;  Boyal ;  Waterloo)  and  Salford 
are  comieeted  by  numerous  bridges.  The  population 
numbers  over  600,000  ;  and  the  two  towns  cover  9 
square  M.  Reclus  says  :  "  Manchester  was  the  Mancu- 
niim  of  the  Romans,  and  in  the  14th  century  was  already 
known  for  its  manufactures  of  stuffs,  established  by 
Flemish  artisans  after  the  religious  wars.  In  our  time 
it  is  the  'cotton  metropolis/  and  its  leading  business 
men  are  cotton  lords V 

The  Gothic  Cathedral {\A>^X)  was  restored  in  1845-68. 
The  celebrated  New  Free  Trade  Hall  stsiuds  inPeter-St., 
near  the  scene  of  the  "  Peterloo  Massacre."  The  large 
hall,  in  which  Cobden  and  Bright  have  made  many 
famous  speeches,  can  hold  7,000  persons.  The  New 
Town  Hall,  the  Royal  Exchange,  the  Corn  Exchange, 
are  imposing  modern  structures.  In  front  of  the  Royal 
Infirmary,  in  Piccadilly,  are  bronze  statues  of  the  Dake 
of  WeUiugton,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Watt,  and  Dalton  (the 
chemist).  Chetham  College  has  a  fine  library.  OweiCs 
College,  in  Oxford-St.,  is  an  elegant  structure.  In  the 
Grammar  School  De  Quincey  received  his  early  edu- 
cation. See  the  Axsize  Courts,  good  example  of  Gothic 
architecture ;  the  vast  County  Jail;  the  Museum  of 
Natural  History  ;  the  Albert  Memorial. 


ENGLAND.  105 

llAnchester  is  reached  from  London  by  the  Midland 
Kly.  (189  M. ;  5  hrs. ;  fares,  24s.  6d..  20s.,  and  16s. 
5ia.),  which  traverses  a  delicious  country.  It  is  41 
M.  (fares,  7s.  6d.,  4s.  7d.,  3s.  5d.)  hence  to  Sheffield 
(Royal Hotel ;  Victoria;  Angel;  King^%  Head)^  the 
heMlquarters  of  the  steel  and  cutlery  trade  of  Eng^land 
(with  suburbs,  384,500  inhab.).  Sheffield  is  shrouded 
in  smoke,  so  that  one  scarcely  gets  a  glimpse  of  its 
really  fine  situation  on  a  cham  of  hills.  8t,  Peter's 
Ch.f  with  the  i^hrewdmry  Chapd;  the  Manor  Houie, 
restored  by  the  Duke  of  Norfolk ;  the  &irewtimry 
Hospitdl;  the  statute  of  Elliott,  the  Corn-Law  Rhymer; 
and  the  Cutlers'  HaU,  are  the  piincipal  sights.  From 
Sheffield  it  is  18  M.  (fares,  2s.  9d..  2s.  2d.,  Is.  6d.)  to 

Doncaater  (Angel  Hotel;  Reindeer;  Elephant)^ 
a  clean  and  well-built  town,  of  Roman  origin,  on  the 
Don ;  noted  tor  its  tine  Ch,  of  St.  George,  and  tor  the 
famous  St.  Leger  race,  established  in  1778.  Near  by 
is  the  grand  old  Conisborough  Castlcy  described  iu 
Ivanhoe.  It  is  39  M.  (fares,  5s.  lid.,  4s.  3d.,  3s.  1  Jd.) 
hence  to  the  ancient  cathedral-town  of 

lancoln  {Great  Northern  Railway  Hotel ;  Sara* 
cen*s  Head ;  Spread  Eagle),  which  was  at  the  time  of 
the  Norman  Conquest  one  of  the  chief  British  cities. 
Under  the  Roman  domination  it  had  been  one  of  the 
best  of  their  fortified  camps.  In  1141  King  Stephen 
was  taken  prisoner,  after  a  battle  at  Lhicolu  by  Rooert, 
Earl  of  Gloucester.  There  the  Dauphin's  party  was 
overthrown  by  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  in  Henry  III.'s 
minority.  The  city  was  stormed  by  the  Parliamentarj 
army  in  1644.'  The  Cathedral  stands  on  the  summit 
of  a  hill,  whence  it  can  be  seen  for  many  miles  around. 
It  was  founded  in  1075,  by  Bishop  Remigius  of  Fe- 
camp ;  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  about  1200 ;  and 
rebuilt  by  Bishop  Hugh  of  Avalon,  1220-60,  aud  dedi- 


106  LINCOLN.  —  BOSTON. 

cated  to  the  Virgin.  The  towers  on  the  splendid  W. 
front  command  a  view  down  the  vale  of  the  Witham^ 
as  far  as  Boston.  The  length  is  482  ft. ;  width  of  W. 
front,  174  ft. ;  height  of  central  tower,  260  ft.  Note 
the  Norman  font  of  Remigias;  the  Galilee  Porch;  the 
choir,  with  wonderful  wood-carving  and  stone-vaulting ; 
the  Easter  Sepulchre;  the  delicately  carved  screens; 
the  lady  chapel.  The  big  bell  weighs  5^  tons.  See 
the  Cloisters,  on  the  N.  side,  and  their  Roman  pave- 
ment. In  the  Library  are  many  Roman  antiquities. 
Monuments  to  Catherine,  wife  of  John  of  Gaunt,  and 
Joan,  Countess  of  Westmoreland,  and  of  many  old 
bishops  and  deans.  The  greater  part  of  the  ch.  i» 
Early  English ;  but  part  of  the  W.  front  is  Norman- 
The  13th  century  produced  nothing  finer  than  the  rose- 
window  in  the  N.  transept.  In  the  S.  transept  there 
is  also  a  fine  rose-window.  See  the  sculptured  angels 
in  the  Pre^ter^,  or  Anget  Choir,  Near  by  is  the 
Bishop's  Pdkux,  founded  by  Bp.  Hugh,  which  had 
fallen  into  ruins  but  is  now  rebuilt ;  the  Castle,  erected 
by  William  the  Conqueror  (now  the  county  courta) ; 
the  Newport,  a  splendid  Roman  ruin,  and  fragments 
of  the  Roman  wall ;  John  of  Gaunt s  Palace ;  the 
GuildhaU  ;  and  the  fine  old  SUmebow  gate. 

Boston  {Peacock  HotetS  is  1-lJ  brs.  S.  E.  of  Lin- 
coin,  and  has  15,000  infiab.,  many  antiquities,  and 
some  commerce.  It  is  5  M.  from  the  sea.  It  was 
called  BotolpKs  Town  from  the  saint  who  founded  a 
monastery  here,  in  654.  St.  BotolpKs  (7A.,  built  1309, 
is  the  largest  British  parish  ch.  without  aisles,  and  is 
291  fk.  long  and  99  ft.  wide,  with  a  splendid  tower, 
800  ft.  high,  visible  from  afar  over  the  sea  and  the  fens. 
32  M.  by  rlv.  from  Boston  is  Peterborough. 

Go  next  from  Lincoln  to  Nottingham.  Just  outside 
of  Lincoln,  curious  Ch.  of  Bracebridge  All  Saints,    At 


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ENGLAND.  107  = 

Newark  (Clinton  ArtM  ;  Earn  ;  Saracen* s  Head)  is  St, 
Mary  Magdalene^  a  splendid  old  ch.,  with  fine  brassesg 
stained  windows,  ana  a  tali  tower>  sustaining  statues  , 
of  the  Apostles ;  also  a  venerable  ruined  Castle,  built 
in  the  reign  of  Stephen,  and  often  besieged.  Herein 
died  King  John.  Belvoir  Castle,  the  palace  of  the 
Duke  of  Rutland,  is  near  by.  Newark  was  once  fa- 
mous for  its  inns,  and  the  Saracen*s  Head  existed  in 
the  time  of  Edward  III.  Sir  Walter  Scott  makes 
Jeannie  Deans  rest  there  on  her  way  from  Midlothian 
to  London.  Just  before  reaching  Nottingham,  the 
train  traverses  the  grounds  of  Colmck  Hall,  where 
Byron's  "Mary  Chaworth''  lived.      * 

Nottingham  (Gtarendon  Hotel/  Piping  H&ne/ 
Boffol ;  Ma/ypole ;  George,  in  the  town)  stands  on  a 
rocky  eminence  N.  of  the  river  Trent.  It  is  the  chief 
place  for  the  making  of  lace  and  hosiery  in  England 
(^30,000  inhab.).  The  old  town  is  a  labvrinth  of  nar. 
row  and  crooked  streets.  Tlie  Market-Piace  is  an  open 
area  of  5|  acres,  with  the  Exchange  at  its  E.  end.  See 
the  N.  and  S.  Parades  ;  Mortimer's  Hole,  a  strange  ex- 
cavation from  the  castle  to  the  river;  Standard  Hill, 
where  King  Charles  I.  unfurled  for  the  first  time  the 
royal  flag  in  1642;  the  Rock  Holes  i  the  Park;  and 
Swinton  Hermitage,  St.  Mary's  CA.  is  a  grand  old 
cruciform  building.  This  was  a  Danish  town,  and 
William  I.  erectea  a  castle  here,  which  was  often. be- 
sieged. The  Castle,  on  the  same  lofty  rock  of  red 
sandstone,  was  destroyed  by  the  mob  in  1831.  It  has 
been  restored,  and  is  occupied  by  the  Midland  Counties 
Art  Museum,  Splendid  view  over  the  Yale  of  TVent,  to 
Belvoir  Castle.  The  country  round  about  is  ^t^  with 
memorials  of  Byron.  Ne^^stead  Abbey,  which  he 
inherited  when  it  was  almost  in  ruins,  is  11  M.  N  W. 
Go  by  rail  to,  Linby  stat.,  9i  M.,  and  walk  (1 J  M.)  to 


108  DliIRBY. 

the  houae,  which  is  not  usually  shown.  An  Augus* 
tiuiau  abbey  was  founded  here  by  Henry  II.  in  1170, 
and  fell  to  Sir  John  Byron  in  1540.  The  grounds  and 
forest  are  beautiful.  The  residence  has  been  carefully 
restored.  The  ruined  ch.,  "a  glorious  remnant  of  the 
tjothic  pile,"  and  the  cloister,  with  a  fountain  iii  its 
centre,  are  very  fine;  the  poet's  mean  l)edroom  is  kept 
as  he  leit  it.  Many  beautiful  and  art-eniiched  halls  ai'e 
shown.  On  the  lawn  is  the  monument  to  Boatswain, 
Byron's  jdog.  In  front  of  the  abbey  is  the  lake,  so 
often  mentioned  in  the  poems. 

Here  you  are  on  the  oorder  of  Sherwood  Forest; 
with  legends  of  Robin  Hood  at  every  turn.  Jiobifi 
Hood's  nil  I  and  Fountain  Dale  are  near  Newstead  Ab- 
bey. 3  M.  off  is  Annesley  Old  Hall,  containing  the 
"  antique  oratory  "  mentioned  in  Byron's  "  The  Dream." 
Hucknall  Ch.y  where  Lord  Byron,  his  mother,  and  liis 
only  daughter  are  buried,  is  1  M.  from  Linby.  Re- 
turning to  Nottingham,  spend  the  night  there,  and 
take  early  train  (15J  M. :  Is.  9d.,  Is.  6d.)  to 

Derby  {Midland  Hotels  close  to  stat  ;  Boyal,  in 
the  town);  and  thence  to  Rowsley  (fares,  2s.  lid.. 
Is.  O^d).  Derby  was  the  Roman  stat.  DervenHo,  and 
here  Richardson  the  novelist  was  bom .  The  fine  Derby 
spar  is  found  near  by.  There  are  rare  old  monuments 
in  the  Cavendish  chapel  of  All  Saints*  Ck-  Derby  is 
the  entrance  to  that  delightful  region  known  as  Tho 
Peak  of  Derbyshire.  Those  who  do  not  wish  to 
make  detours  can  reach  Derby  or  Rowsley,  from  Liver- 
pool and  Manchester,  by  the  Midland  Line.  The  Peak 
IS  a  picturesque  district,  containing  "that  beautifal 
scenei^  of  the  millstone  grit  and  mt.  limestone  for 
which  the  county  is  so  pre-eminent.  This  scenic  in- 
terest, however,  does  not  arise  so  much  from  the  ele- 
vation of  the  hills  as  from  their  romantic  grouping  and 


ENGLAND.  109 

the  bold  and  varied  ammeement  of  tbe  dales  and  elonglis, 
which  ofPer  exquisite  landscape  pictures."  Reach 
Kowsley  at  9  a.m.,  and  (leaving  your  baggage  —  ex- 
cept umbrella  and  waterproof — in  tbe  stat.  cloak-room) 
make  a  bargain  with  a  driver,  and  go  at  once  to  Had- 
don  Hall,  1 J  M.  (1  person,  28.  6d. ;  2-3  persons.  Is. 
each.  Bargain  for  the  same  driver  to  take  you  both 
to  Haddon  and  Chatsworth.  If  he  wails,  you  must 
make  special  terms).  Haddon  Hall,  on  a  hiU  E.  of 
the  Wye,  which  is  crossed  by  a  picturesque  bridge,  is 
an  ancient  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Kutland.  There  hved 
Sir  George  Vernon  (1545),  whose  profuse  hospitality 
procured  him  the  title  of  "  King  of  the  Peak ;  *'  thence 
fair  Dorothy  Vernon  eloped  to  marry  her  lover,  Sir 
John  Manners ;  and  there,  in  the  State  Bedchamber j 
are  the  famous  tapestries  illustrating  iEsop's  Fables, 
woven  at  the  Gobelins  in  Paris.  Visitors  are  shown 
the  ChaplaitCs  Moom,  the  Chapel,  the  Banqueting-Hall, 
the  Dining-Rooniy  with  the  inscription,  "  Drede  God 
and  honor  the  Kyng,"  over  the  fireplace ;  the  Dmwing- 
Room,  the  State  and  Earrs  Bedchambers^  and  PeveriVa 
Tower.     Small  fee  to  servant. 

Chatsworth  (3  M.  from  Bowsley ;  4  M.  from  Bake- 
well  stat.)  is  the  finest  mansion  in  England.  It  is 
a  favorite  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  and  is 
called  the  "Palace  of  the  Peak."  The  oM  Hall  was 
used  as  a  fortress  in  the  Civil  War,  both  by  forces  of 
King  and  Parliament.  The  present  8.  front  dates  from 
168/ ;  the  E.  side,  great  hall,  and  staircase,  from  1690 ; 
the  N.  front,  from  1704.  See  the  Comervatory,  Great 
Hall  (67  X  20  ft.).  Chapel,  Grand  Drawing-Room, 
Libraries,  Dining-Room  (58  X  30  ft.),  Sculpture  Gal- 
lery (103  X  30  ft.).  Orangery,  Sketch  Gallery  (original 
drawings  by  Angelo,  Kaphael,  Diirer,  Titian,  etc.V 
State  Apartments,  Gallery  of  Paintings  (Titian,  Salva^ 


110  MATLOCK  BATH.  —  BAKEWELL. 

Rosa,  Tintoretto,  Murilb,  Holbein,  etc.),  Staie  Draw- 
itt^'Room.  Two  of  the  staiie  rooms  are  called  those  of 
Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  because  she  was  long  a  prisoner 
there.  The  Arboretum,  Conservatory,  and  Gardens 
(6d.  to  gardener)  should  be  seen.  The  French  Garden 
comes  first,  then  the  Camellia  and  Orchid  Houses  ;  next 
a  copper  willow-tree ;  then  the  vast  Conservatory  (276 
X  123  ft,).  See  the  Emperor  Fountain,  and  go  out  by 
the  Italian  garden.  The  Old  Hunting  Tower  and  Queen 
Mary's  Bower  deserye  notice.  Chatsworth  is  open 
daily,  11-5  (Sat.  11-1).  Queer  old  village  of  Bdenaor. 
CkcUsfoorth  Hotel,  good),  outside  Park  gates.  In  the 
church  is  the  tomb  of  Lord  Frederick  Cavendish, 
assassinated  in  Dublin  in  1882. 

Returning  to  Rowslej,  lunch  at  tlie  Peacock  Inn,  an 
old  hostelry,  with  a  pretty  garden.  (Write  or  telegraph 
ahead  for  rooms.)  The  famous  Matlock  Bath  X^^^ 
Bath  Hotel)  is  in  the  romantic  Matlock  Dale,  on  the 
Derwent.  Said  Hawthorne  :  "  I  have  never  seen  any- 
where else  such  exqubite  scenery."  Rocky  and  foliage- 
clad  crags  rise  300  ft.  above  the  river,  and  there  are 
many  fine  grottos  in  them.  Masson  hill,  1,000  ft.  high, 
commands  a  grand  view  down  the  Derwent  defiles. 
Branch  line  trom  Matlock  to  Buxton  {St.  Antte's 
Hotel;  Palace;  Old  Halt),  1  hr.  from  Manchester. 
Fine  spruigs  here,  in  the  Wye  valley,  efficient  in  curing 
rheumatism  and  gout.  12  acres  in  public  gardens.  — 
Bake  well  (Butland  Arms  Inn)  has  a  fine  ch.,  with 
Yemon  and  Manners  monuments.  The  rural  beauty 
of  this  section  Is  not  surpassed  in  England.  Hardma^ 
HallaAid  Bolsover  Castle,  both  in  Derbyshire,  are  superb 
mansioas,  filled  with  art-treasures.  The  former  may  be 
readied  from  Qay-Cross  stat.,  between  Derby  and  Shef- 
field; the  latter  from  Langwith.  Burton-on-Trent  is 
*^Q  site  of  vast  ale  breweries.     We  now  suggest  that 

.  go  from  the  Derbyshire  district  to 


ENGLAND.  Ill 

Birmingham  {Queen's  Hotel,  at  the  stat.;  Great 
Western;  Hen  and  Chickens),  Fares  from  Manchester 
to  Birmingham,  12s.  6d.,  Ds.  8d.,  68.  ll^d.;  from 
Bowsley,  8s.  7d.,  58. 8id.  You  can  leave  Nottingham 
early,  go  to  Rowsley,  Haddon  Hall,  Chatsworth,  and 
Buxton,  and  get  to  Birmingham  at  night.  Birming- 
ham is  the  birthplace  of  Pnestley,  a  centre  of  liberal 
thought,  and  a  great  manufacturing  place  (485,000 
inhao.).  Camden  said  of  old  **  Bremicham  "  (Brum- 
magem ?),  that  '*  it  echoed  with  the  noise  of  anvils, 
for  there  were  a  great  many  smiths."  Almost 
everything  that  can  be  made  of  metal  is  fabricated 
at  Birmingham.  Visit  the  Blkington'a  Electro-plate 
Works;  Gillott's -S^«e^  Pen  Works;  the  Mint;  the 
gun-works  ;  the  Town  Hall,  in  which  are  held  the 
renowned  triennial  musical  festivals.  New  Oorpo^'a- 
turn  Offices;  Free  Library ;  New  Post  (Mce ;  Mar- 
ket HaU  ;  Exchange  ;  Birmingham  and  Midland  In- 
stitiUe;  King  Edward  Ws  Free  Grammar  School; 
General  Hospital;  St.  Philip's  Ch.  ;  Aston  HaU,  in 
the  handsome  Aston  Park.  The  Botanical  Gardens 
(Is.;  on  Mon.,  Id.)  are  worth  notice. 

Excursions  may  be  made  to  (13  M.)  Wolver- 
bampton  {Star  and  Gartet* ;  Swan),  the  metropo- 
lis of  the  Black jCfoun  try,  which  has  manufacturing 
trade  in  tin  and  iron  goods  (85,000  inhab.).  Things 
to  see  :  St.  Peter's  Ch,;  Queen' s-Square,  with  eques- 
trian statue  of  Prince  Albert ;  Library  ;  Theatre; 
Orphan  Asylum.— To  (29  M )  Stafford  {Northvfest- 
em  Hotel  ;  Swan),  a  well-built  modern  town. 
Izaak  Walton  was  a  native  of  this  place.  See 
old  timber-houses,  especially  the  Noah's  Ark,  in 
Crabbery-8t. ;  St,  Mary's  and  St.  Chad's  Chs.;  the 
Bury  Ring ;  Stafford  Castle,  *  M.  out.  Leather 
is  the  chief  industiy.  — To  Kidderminster,  fa- 
mous for  the  manufacture  of  carpets.  The  old  ch. 
is   a   fine   Gothic   monument.     A   walk   through 


H2  WORCESTER.  —  COVENTRY. 

the  ch.-yard  commands  views  of  the  town  and  tbe  met 
Stour.  In  the  yicinity  are  the  Clefi^  Hills.  Richard 
Baxter  preached  here  25  years.  —  To  Worcester 
{Star  Hotel;  Unicorn) ^  nearly  in  the  centre  of  Enghind, 
and  finely  situated  on  an  ascent  from  the  Severn.  The 
Foregate-St.  is  very  handsome.  The  Cathedral  is  an 
elegant  structure,  built  in  1024r-1374,  394?  ft.  lon^, 
78  wide,  162  high.  Beautifully  decorated  in  the  lady 
chapel,  where  the  roof  is  covered  with  figures  painted 
in  medallions.  The  fine  stone  pulpit  in  the  choir  is 
restored.  See  the  enamelled  metal  cross  above  the 
choir-screen.  Among  the  monuments  is  King  John's^ 
one  of  the  most  ancient  in  England ;  statues  of  Bishops 
AVulstan,  Oswald,  and  Hough ;  tomb  of  Prince  Arthur, 
son  of  Henry  V.,  a  fine  Gothic  bit.  The  cloisters  where 
the  monks  once  resided  are  interesting.  The  handsome 
decagonal  chapter-house  is  now  used  as  a  national  school. 
Other  public  buildings:  Episcopal  Palace,  close  by  the 
Severn;  tlie  Commander^;  Eifjar's  Tower;  the  Onild- 
hall,  with  royal  statues;  and  tne  Hopmarket,  the  most 
important  in  England. 

Coventry,  Kenilworth,  Warwick, 
Stratford-on-Avon. 

It  is  a  relief  to  get  out  of  the  region  of  factories 
into  the  delightful  quiet  of  old  Coventry  {Craven 
Arms;  Kiivg's Head  Hotd ;  Queen*s Hotel).  •  Distance 
from  Birmingham,  18|  M.;  fares,  Ss.  6d.,  28.  6d.,  Is. 
7id.  Coventry  was  formerly  the  third  city  in  the 
kingdom.  Every  one  knows  the  story  of  Lady  Gk>- 
diva.  An  effigy,  called  Peeping  Tom,  is  still  exhibited 
at  the  corner  of  Hertford-St.  In  Richard  II. *8  time 
the  city  was  defended  by  a  wall,  with  26  towel's  and 
12  gates,  some  of  which  remain ;  but  the  greater 


ENGLAND.  113 

|»rt  of  them  vere  destroyed  by  Charles  II.  Coven- 
try retains  much  of  its  ancient  picturesoue  aspect,  with 
narrow  streets,  fine  old  gables,  and  halt-timber  houses, 
and  several  hrs.  can  be  profitably  spent  there.  The' 
"  three  tall  spires  "  of  which  Tennyson  speaks  are  those  ^ 
of  St.  Michaers,  Trinity,  and  Christ  Clis.  St.  Michael* a, 
one  of  the  finest  Gothic  structures  in  England,  was 
founded  about  1133.  The  charming  spire,  3u8'ft.  higli, 
was  built  1373-95.  The  ch.  was  rebuilt  in  1434,  and 
is  400  ft.  long.  "  Most  magnificent,  —  so  old,  yet 
enduring;  so  huge,  so  rich,  Hawthorne  found  it. 
Trinity  Ch.  is  close  to  St.  Micliaers,  and  was  once 
a  fine  specimen  of  Gothic.  Dugdale  finds  a  mention 
of  its  annexation  to  the  Benedictine  Priory  in  1260. 
Christ  Ch.  was  founded  by  the  begging  Greyfriars. 
The  spire  is  the  only  remaining  part  of  the  old  ch. ; 
8t,  JoJitCb  Ch.,  at  the  K  W.  end  of  the  city,  is  a 
fine  old  building,  with  a  massive  tower.  St.  Mary's 
Hall  is  a  beautiful  edifice  near  St.  MichaeFs.  It 
originally  belonged  to  St.  Catherine's  Guild,  and 
vfaB  built  about  the  middle  of  the  14th  century. 
The  Ih^ee  School;  Oreyfriars  or  Fm^d  Hospital y 
the  Workhouse,  built  out  of  the  remains  of  the 
Whitefriars  Monastery  (founded  in  1842) ;  and 
the  remnants  of  the  gates,  are  other  objects  of 
interest.  A  few  fragments  of  the  Benedictine  Priory, 
founded  in  1043,  are  left.  About  4  M.  out  is  Stone- 
leigh  Abbey,  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  held  before 
the  Conquest  by  King  Edward.  Henry  11.  granted  it 
to  a  body  of  Cistercian  monks.  The  site  is  a  lovely 
one,  the  Avon  bathing  two  sides  of  the  verdant  slopes 
on  which  the  old  monastic  house  was  located.  There 
is  a  fine  park  in  front ;  and  a  road,  crossing  the  Avon 
by  an  ekgant  stone  bridge,  conducts  to  the  gateway, 
lie  building  is  clothed  with  ivv.  and  its  ponderous 
8 


114  KENILWORTH. 

oaken  gates  are  very  curious.     Within  the  state  apart*  . 
ments  are  many  paintings  by  Rembrandt,  Van  Dyck, 
Holbein,  Teniers,  etc. 

For  those  who  have  time,  nothing  can  be  more  de- 
lightful tlian  a  leisurely  tour  on  foot  from  Coventry  to 
Kenil worth,  Warwick,  and  Stratford-on-Avon;  going 
out  from  this  region  of  fine  old  castles,  lovely  valleys, 
and  beautiful  fields,  by  Rugby,  and  thence  either  straight 
down  to  London,  or  to  Peterboro*,  and  Ely,  making  a 
detour  to  Cambridge  and  Oxford.  For  those  who  de- 
sire to  see  Kenllworth,  Warwick,  and  Stratford,  and 
get  away  to  London  at  night,  there  will  be  no  other 
course  tnan  to  take  a  carriage  at  Coventry,  Leaming- 
ton, Warwick,  or  Stratford.  A  beautiful  trip  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Go  from  Coventry  (5  M.),  by  a  road  shaded  all 
the  way  by  fine  elms  and  sycamores,  to  Kenllworth 
{Kijws  Arms  Inn  ;  Castle),  where  the  chief  attraction 
is  Kenilworth  Castle,  standing  on  an  eminence  to  the 
W.  The  first  buildings,  in  a  deep  hollow  overgrown 
by  underbrush, .  are  the  base  and  side  walls  of  the 
Gallery  Tower,  the  S.  E.  end  of  the  Tilt  Yard,  and 
originally  the  chief  entrance  to  the  Castle.  Enter  by 
a  gate  in  the  N.  wall  (trifling  fee),  and  first  arrive  at 
Likc68tef8  Gatehouse,  a  square  building  of  4  stories, 
flanked  at  each  angle  with  an  octagonal  tower,  and 
embattled.  This  building  is  not  entered  by  visitors, 
as  it  is  a  private  residence.  Passing  on,  you  come 
directly  in  front  of  the  main  buildings ;  and  looking  W. 
have  the  inner  court  in  full  view.  The  E.  side  of  the 
square  was  composed  of  buildings  erected  by  King 
Henry  VIII.  and  Sir  Robert  Dudley,  but  is  now  wholly 
destroyed.  On  the  r.  is  Cesar's  Tower,  a  vast  keep  of 
immense  strength,  with  walls  many  feet  thick.  Beyond 
is  the  building  called  MereyrCs  Tower,  which  all  readers 
"^  Scott's  novel  of  Kenilworth  will  visit.    The  chamber* 


ENGLAND.  ^  115 

are  all  arched  with  stone,  and  it  is  supposed  that  they 
served  as  prisons  in  the  time  of  Henry  II.  From  the 
top  may  oe  seen  on  the  r.  the  remains  of  the  Swan 
Tower,  which  formed  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  outer 
walls  built  in  Henry  III.'s  time.  Adjoining  Mervyn 
Tower,  on  the  S.,  is  the  great  Banqueting -Hall,  built  by 
John  of  Gaunt.  The  floor  was  supported  on  a  stone 
vaulting,  carried  on  parallel  rows  of  pillars,  the  remains 
of  which  may  be  seen.  Notice  the  great  height  of  the 
windows,  which  were  filled  with  tracery,  and  transomed. 
Beyond  the  Banqueting-Hall  are  the  White  Hall,  the 
Presence  Chamber,  and  the  Privy  Chamber ;  and  still 
S.  are  the  remains  of  Leicester's  buildings,  of  great 
height  and  remarkable  architectural  beauty.  The  cas- 
tle was  founded  by  Geoflfroy  de  Clinton,  Chamber- 
lain to  Henry  I. ;  to  pass  presently  to  the  crown  of 
Henry  III.  It  was  granted  to  Simon  de  Montfort. 
and  became  the  resort  for  the  insurgent  nobles.  After 
Leicester's  defeat  and  death,  his  eldest  son  sheltered 
himself  in  this  fortress ;  and  there  was  a  famous  siege,  in 
which  the  castle  held  out  for  6  months.  In  Edward  I.'s 
time  a  magnificent  tournament  occurred  here.  Edward 
II.  lay  a  prisoner  in  the  castle  at  one  time ;  and  the 
visits  of  Elizabeth  to  Kenilworth  were  in  1566,  1568, 
and  1575.     The  last  was  immortalized  by  Scott. 

From  Kenilworth  by  the  highway  to  Warwick  is 
about  5  M.,  by  Leek  Wootton,  a  village  built,  on  a  rocky 
eminence  and  quite  picturesque.  1  M.  beyond  is 
Blacklow  HiU,  where,  from  an  opeuing  in  the  trees, 
is  seen  the  monument  erected  to  mark  the  spot  on 
■which  Piers  Gave.«tx)n.  Earl  ot  Cornwall,  was  be- 
headed. \\  M.  from  Warwick,  is  Gwfs  Cliff,  the 
handsome  country-seat  of  Lady  Percy,  and  a  place  of 
religious  retirement  more  than  4  centuries  previous  to 
the  time  of  jUarl  Guy  Warwick,  who  is  supposed,  at  this 


116  WARWICK. 

I 

place  to  have  finished  his  life  of  adventure,  as  a  her. 
mit.  Leland,  in  Henry  VIII/s  time,  calls  this  "the 
abode  of  pleasure,  a  place  meet  for  the  Muses."  Cam- 
den, Dugdale,  and  Fuller  are  all  equally  enthusiastic  ia 
its  praise.     Guy*s  Cave  and  Gufs  Well  are  shown. 

Warwick  (Warwick  Arms;  Globe;  Wool-pack: 
these  houses,  though  comfortable,  are  small  and  apt  to 
be  crowded ;  it  is  best  to  telegraph  for  rooms  in  ad- 
vance) is  near  the  centre  of  beautiful  Warwickshire, 
on  a  rocky  hill,  past  which  the  Avon  flows.  The  town 
is  of  Saxon  origin,  and  was  formerly  surrounded  with 
strong  walls,  of  which  there  are  now  but  few  rem- 
nants. The  old  gates  are  interesting ;  and  the  Hospital, 
founded  by  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  is  one  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  half-timber  buildings.  It  stands  at  the 
W.  end  of  High-St.,  of  which  its  chapel,  which  pos- 
sesses a  very  beautiful  window,  forms  a  striking  orna- 
ment. Under  the  chapel  is  a  curious  vaulted  passage 
of  great  antiquity,  through  which  an  entrance  into  the 
town  once  passed.  A  tower,  built  by  Thomas  de  Beau- 
champ,  in  the  time  of  Richard  XL,  rises  above  the 
chapel.  This  formed  the  W.  gateway  of  the  fortifi- 
cations. It  has  a  richly  fjroined  ceiling.  In  this  hos- 
f)ital  a  limited  number  of  brothers  are  allowed.  They 
lave  to  wear  a  livery  when  abroad,  consisting  of  a  fine 
blue  broadcloth  gown,  with  a  silver  badge  of  a  bear  and 
ragged  staff.  Lord  Leicester's  device.  St.  Mary's  is  the 
prmcipal  ch.  in  Warwick.  It  was  founded  prior  to  the 
Conquest ;  and  contains  many  curious  monuments,  and 
Beauchamp  Chapely  which  is  considered  the  most  splen- 
did in  England,  after  that  of  Henry  VII. 

Warwick  Castle,  one  of  the  noblest  residences  in 
England,  is  S.  E.  of  the  tx)wn,  on  a  high  rock  which 
overlooks  the  Avon.  Before  entering  the  castle,  walk 
^iown  to  the  stone  bridge,  from  which  there  is  a  fine 


ENGLAND.  llf 

view  of  the  castle.  The  moonlight  view  is  striking. 
Enter  the  castie  by  a  huge  gate,  and  walk  up  a  winding 
way,  bordered  by  moss-grown  rock,  to  the  outer  court, 
formerly  a  vineyard,  renowned  for  its  grapes  in  the  time 
of  Henry  IV.  On  the  r.  is  Guy\  Tower,  128  ft.  high, 
30  ft.  in  diameter,  and  with  walls  10  ft.  thick ;  and  on 
the  1.  the  venerable  Gasar^s  Totoer,  coeval  with  the 
Norman  Conquest.  This  is  connected  with  Guy'» 
Tower  by  an  embattled  wall,  in  the  centre  of  which  is- 
the  great  arched  gateway,  flanked  by  towers  and  suc- 
ceeded by  a  second,  whose  towers  and  battlements  rise 
above  those  of  the  firet.  After  passing  the  double 
gateway  you  are  in  the  inner  court,  and  see  the  great 
castle  directly  in  front  of  you.  When  the  famfly  is 
absent  (and  it  generally  is),  the  interior  is  shown.  The 
rooms  shown  are  the  Greai  Hall,  from  which  a  view  is 
obtained  through  the  state  rooms,  a  straight  line  of  33^ 
ft.,  terminated  at  the  W.  end  by  a  window.  From  this 
great  hall  may  also  be  seen,  at  the  end  of  the  Chapei 
Passage,  Van  Dyck*s  celebrated  painting  of  Charles  I» 
You  pass  through  the  Red  Drawina-Room  ;  the  Cedar 
Dramng^Room,  containing  a  bustlby  Hiram  Powers, 
and  a  portrait  of  Charles  I.  by  Van  Dyck ;  and  next 
enter  the  Gilt  Drawing-room,  which  contains  many 
old  paintings.  The  bed  and  furniture  in  the  ^at& 
Bedroom  belonged  to  Queen  Anne.  The  tapestry  in 
this  room  is  very  fine.  The  Boudoir  is  a  veritable 
museum  ;  and  the  effect  of  the  immense  height,  and 
the  tree-tops,  which  come  up  to  the  veiy  windows, 
is  curious.  Here  are  pictures  by  Hoibem,  Rubens, 
Vandyke,  etc.  From  thence  pass  through  the  Arm- 
ory Passage  to  a  billiard-room,  rich  with  portraits  -^ 
a  Compass-Roomy  the  Chapel,  and  the  Library,  in 
which  is  the  famous  Kenilworth  boffet,  made  of  oak 
grown  on  the  Kenilworth  estate.    In  the  Breakf^ 


118  WARWICK  CASTLE. 

Room  is  a  fine  collection  of  paintings  by  Canaletto,  who 
resided  for  some  time  at  the  castle.  (Small  fee  to  serw 
vant  who  shows  the  apartments :  for  one  person,  6d. 
or  Is.;  for  a  party  of  4,  2s.)  Caesar's  Tower  is  not 
shown.  It  has  a  dark  and  dismal  dungeon  beneath  it, 
on  the  walls  of  which  are  scrawls  made  by  prisoners. 
Ouy*s  Tower,  the  top  of  which  is  reached  by  a  flight 
of  133  steps,  commands  a  noble  view  of  Coventry, 
Kenilworth,  Guy's  Cliff,  Leamington,  and  the  neigh- 
borhood. The  gardens  are  very  fine,  and  on  the  hill  of 
the  tower  are  some  superb  cedars  of  Lebanon.  In  the 
Porter's  Lodge  arerehcs  of  the  hero  Guy.  Hawthorne 
calls  this  "  one's  very  idea  of  an  old  castle."  From 
Warwick  to  Leamington  is  2  M.  A  rly.  runs  from  Lea- 
mington through  Warwick  to  Stratford.  (From  War- 
wick to  Stratford,  13^  M.)  The  most  desirable  route, 
however,  is  by  highway,  8  M.  from  Warwick,  past 
CharlcotBy  the  country-seat  of  the  Lucys,  to  Stratford. 
This  is  a  delightful  excursion,  and  we  recommend  those 
who  can  to  make  it  on  foot,  that  they  may  linger  among 
the  beautiful  sylvan  scenery,  and  approach  Stratford 
through  the  pleasant  meadows.  Charlcote  House 
is  off  the  route  to  Stratford,  but  the  drivers  usually 
take  you  close  to  it.  It  is  a  handsome  mansion  in  the 
midst  of  a  beautiful  park,  well  stocked  with  deer, 
the  sight  of  which  will  call  to  mind  the  youthful  ad- 
venture of  Shakespeare  as  a  poacher,  and  the  prose- 
cution which  decided  him  to  render  Sir  Thomas  Lucy 
immortal  as  Justice  Sliallow.  From  Charlcote  you 
pass  through  numerous  fine  bits  of  woodland  country, 
and,  crossing  the  Avon  Bridge,  enter 

Stratford-on-Avon    (^Shakespeare   Hotels    BeS- 
Horse  ;  Falcon) ,  a  quiet  old-fashioned  place,  with  wide 
^nd  well-kept  streets,  and  many  handsome  mansions. 

9  Toum  Hall  was  dedicated  "to  the  memory  of  the 


ENGLAND.  U9 

poet.  Here  is  a  statue  of  Shakespeare  presented  by 
Garrick.  On  the  pedestal  see  lines  from  Eamlet  : 
"  Take  him  for  all  in  all,  we  shall  not  look  upon  his 
hke  again."  Very  interesting  is  the  Shakespeare 
Memorial  Building  and  Theatre,  which  we  advise  you. 
to  visit  firsl  on  entering  the  town.  Tliis  memorial 
structure,  in  a  charming  situation  by  the  Avon,  was 
the  outgrowth  of  the  feeling  that  the  poet  should 
have  a  suitable  monument  in  his  native  town. 

From  the  Memorial  go  to  Holy  Trimly  Ch.,  a  cruci- 
form edifice,  consisting  of  a  nave  with  aisles,  a  transept 
and  chancel,  and  a  square  battlemented .  tower,  in  a 
lovely  situation  by  the  Avon,  surrounded  b^  a  ch.-yard 
full  of  tombstones,  covered  with  quaint  inscriptions. 
If  the  doors  are  not  open,  the  driver  will  go  lor  the 
keys.  The  oh.  contains  interesting  monuments  and 
some  very  quaint  wood-carvings.  The  grave  of  Shake* 
speare  is  in  the  floor  of  the  chancel,  covered  by  a  plain 
flagstone.  On  the  chancel-wall,  near  the  grave,  is  an  or- 
namental arch  with  a  bust  of  Shakespeare,  in  a  thought- 
ful  attitude.  From  this  burial-place  of  genius  it  is  but  a 
short  distance  to  the  village  of  Bhottery,  where  stands, 
embosomed  in  foliage,  the  pretty  cottage  once  the  resi- 
dence of  Anne  Hathaway.  In  this  humble  abode 
Shakespeare  courted  his  wife.  Mrs.  Baker,  a  h'neal 
descenoant  of  the  Hathaways,  shows  the  quaint  inte- 
rior; the  oaken  seat  on  which  Shakespeare  and  Anne 
were  wont  to  sit ;  many  bits  of  venerable  furniture ; 
and,  up-stairs,  a  vast  bed,  on  which  many  a  Hathaway 
has  drawn  the  last  breath  of  life.  She  also  shows  a 
visitors'  book,  which  contains  the  names  of  a  great  num- 
ber of  eminent  EneUshmen  and  Americans  (small  fee). 
Return  to  Stratford,  and  in  Henley-St.  you  will  find  the 
SbakaspeMre  Honoe.  This  is  a  fine  old  half-timbe- 
building,  in  which  the  poet  was  born  (1564),  and  wh 


120  STRATFORD-ON-AVOX. 

itis  familT  long  lired.  It  consists  of  3  apaftments  on 
the  grooiid  floor,  oue  of  viucb  is  a  raoseam ;  of  tbe 
room  in  which  Shakespesre  was  bora,  up-stairs;  and 
smaller  rooms,  in  one  of  which  is  the  celebrated  Strat- 
ford portrait  of  the  hard,  nnlike  the  commonly  receiTed 
pictures,  but  belieTed  by  many  people  to  be  more  au- 
theutic.  It  was  painted  orer  in  Puritan  times  to  escape 
destruction.  The  room  in  whicli  the  poet  was  born 
is  in  its  original  state,  except  tliat  visitors  of  every 
nation  and  every  rank  have  scribbled  their  names  on 
the  walls  and  windows.  The  autographs  of  Byron, 
Scott,  Washington  Irving,  Geoige  IV.,  the  Prince  of 
Oi-auge,  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  Tom  Moore,  Charles 
Dickens,  etc.,  are  pointed  out.  The  house  is  now  the 
property  of  the  nation,  having  been  purchased  in  1847 
oy  public  subscription.  In  the  museum  are  early  edi- 
tions of  Shakespeare*s  plays;  the  deed  made  in  1596, 
showing  that  John  Shakespeare,  the  father  of  the  poet, 
resided  in  this  house ;  a  letter  from  Mr.  Richard  Qnyney 
to  Shakespeare  in  1598,  requesting  a  loan  of  £30,  the 
only  letter  known  to  be  in  existence,  addressed  V>  the 
poet ;  Shakespeare's  signet  ring,  with  the  initials  W.  S. 
upon  it ;  an  old  desk,  said  to  have  been  his,  and  re- 
moved from  the  Grammar  School;  the  Shakespeare 
jug,  from  which  Garrick  drank  at  the  Jubilee  in  1769  ; 
-and  a  sword,  which  once  belonged  to  Shakespeare. 
Autograph  sentiments,  written  by  Wasliington  Irving, 
by  Lucien  Bonaparte,  and  others,  are  also  to  be  seen. 
Visitors  register  their  names.  The  old  visitors*  books 
are  most  curious.  The  firet  one,  beginning  in  1S12, 
may  be  seen  at  Mrs.  James's,  near  the  Town  Hall,  in. 
High-St.  (Admission  to  Shakespeare's  birth|daee,  6d. 
House  open  daily,  9-7.)  The  pilgrim  should  now  come 
io  Ifew  Place,  where  Shakespeare  lived  daring  Jus 
prosperous  latter  years,  and  where  he  died  (1616),     It 


ENGLAND.  121 

Is  tc-day  merely  a  well-kept  lawn.  The  house  is  gone. 
Opposite  is  the  Guild  C Impels  founded  in  1269 ;  chancel 
reouilt  about  1450.  In  the  second  story  of  the  adja- 
cent  Guild  Hall  is  the  Grammar  School,  where  Shake- 
speare  was  one  of  the  pupils.  Visit  one  or  both  of  the 
celebrated  inns,  the  Red  Horse  and  the  Shakespeare; 
the  former,  where  you  can  lunch  before  returning  to 
Warwick,  is  a  plain,  unromantic-looking  house,  ren- 
dered interesting  by  the  genius  of  Washington  Irving. 
There  Americans  are  shown  the  room  where  he  stayea ; 
a  chair,  with  his  name  engraved  on  a  brass  plate; 
the  poker  with  which  lie  poked  the  fire,  etc. 

From  Warwick  go  by  rly.  (2  M.)  to  Leamington 
(Manor  House  Hotel),  a  famous  watering-place,  with 
sulphuretted  saline  springs.  The  most  important  build- 
ing is  the  Royal  Pump  Room  and  Baths. 

You  may  go  directly  from  Warwick  to  London  (fares, 
l5s.  6d.,  lis.  lOd.,  8s.  6d. ;  time,  3  hrs. ;  distance, 
^7i  M.).  Oxford  may  be  visit^ed  on  the  way;  but  we 
recommend  you  to  go  to  Rugby,  Peterborough,  Ely, 
Cambridge,  and  Northampton ;  then  from  Bedford  to 
Oxford  and  London.     You  will  pass  through 

Rugby  (JRoycU  George  Hotel ;  Eagle;  Three  Horae^ 
shoes),  Dickens's  Mngby  Junction,  famous  for  its  Gram- 
mar School,  founded  in  1567.  Here  the  celebrated 
Dr.  Arnold  was  head  master ;  and  the  readers  of  Tom 
Brown  will  perhaps  wish  to  visit  the  school.  Close  by 
is  Castle  Mount,  where  a  stronghold  stood  in  the  time 
•of  King  Stephen.  Ih  M.  out  is  Bilton  Hall,  where 
Addison  lived.  In  the  garden  is  Addison's  fiEivor.te 
▼alk.     After  leaving  Rugby  you  soon  reach 

Peterborough  {Great  Northern  Hotel;  Angel; 
BitUH»t^,  anciently  called  Medetihamsteds,  andderiv* 
ing  its  origin  from  a  noted  Benedictine  Abbey,  estab- 
lished in  655,  shortly  after  the  Saxons  had  become 


122  PETERBOROUGH. 

Christianized.  The  Danes  destroyed  this  abbey  (807), 
and  it  was  restored  in  966.  Then  the  town  was 
named  after  the  saint  to  whom  it  was  dedicated.  The 
abbey,  when  Henry  VIII.  dissolved  the  religious 
bodies,  was  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  King- 
dom, and  was  selected  as  the  see  of  one  of  the  new 
bishoprics.  The  monastic  buildings  suffered  cruelly 
during  the  civil  wars;  and  the  cathedral  itself  was 
sadly  defaced.  It  is  said  that  Henry  VIII.  spared 
Peterborough  Abbey  because  Catherine  of  Aragon  lay 
buried  within  its  enclosure.  It  is  a  noble  T^Jormaa 
structure,  471  ft.  long  and  180  ft.  wide.  Mary, 
(Jueen  of  Scots,  once  reposed  here.  The  cloisters  are 
in  excellent  preservation.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
cathedral  is  a  fine  court,  on  the  S.  side  of  wliich  a 
range  of  the  old  monastic  structures  is  still  erect. 
The  W.  front  (built  1250),  3  vast  open  arches,  has 
been  called  "the  grandest  portico  in  Europe."  See 
the  noble  old  oaken  roof,  the  carved  oaken  screen,  the 
Lady  Chapel,  the  venerable  font.  Hawthorne  said: 
"Of  all  the  lovely  closes  that  I  ever  beheld,  that  of 
Peterborough  Cathedral  is  the  most  delightful,  —  so 
quiet,  so  solemnly  and  nobly  cheerful."  Most  of  the 
beautiful  glass  and  all  the  records  in  the  cathedral 
were  destroyed  by  Cromwell's  soldiers.  The  E.  end 
was  burned  in  1438.  In  the  Ch.  of  St.  John  the  Bap* 
tist  there  are  some  exquisite  figures  by  Elaxmaa. 
Peterborough  has  a  large  trade  in  corn,  coal,  etc.  3 
M.  out  is  Milioii  Park,  the  seat  of  Earl  Eitzwilliam. 
9  M.  distant  is  Castor ^  with  a  perfectly  preserved 
Roman  fortress.  21  M.  away  is  Fotkeringkav,  witli 
a  splendid  ruined  ch.,  and  the  ruins  of  the  da  Pkn- 
tagenet  castle  in  which  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  was 
put  to  death.  From  Peterborough  it  is  30  Mi  (faraait 
^    3d.,  5s,  2s.  5Jd.)to 


ENGLAND.  123 

Bly  {Lamb  Inn  ;  Bell),  The  Isle  of  Ely  is  a  tract 
of  hiffh  land,  amid  the  fens;  and  here  a  monastery 
was  founded  by  St.  Etheldreda  (673).  A  charter  was 
granted  by  Edgar,  and  confirmed  b^  Canute,  Edward 
the  Confessor,  and  the  Pope.  The  isle  made  an  excel- 
lent defence  against  William  the  Conqueror.  Tlie  stalls 
are  remarkable  specimens  of  wood-carving.  The  cathe- 
dral  was  founded  about  1082.  The  Galilee  is  a  beau- 
tiful porch.  The  Central  Octagon  is  a  superb  Gothic 
dome,  with  exquisite  details.  Note  the  new  oak  screen, 
with  brass  gates;  the  rich  marble  carvings  in  the 
Choir ;  the  Stalls ;  Bishop  Alcock^s  Chapel ;  Prior 
Crandene's  Chapel;  and  the  ancient  Bishop's  Palace, 
There  is  a  Park  S.  of  the  cathedral.  Tlie  Ladv  Chapel 
was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II.,  ancf  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  most  perfect  buildings  of  its  kind. 
Ely  Cathedral  is  the  longest  Gothic  cathedral  (but  one) 
in  Europe  (537  ft.).  The  W.  tower  is  266  ft.  high. 
For  technical  description  see  King's  Hand-Book  of 
English  Cathedrals^  which  is  an  excellent  companion  in 
these  ancient  towns.     From  Ely  proceed  to 

Cambridge  (University  Arms ;  Red  Lion;  Bull; 
Hoop;  Castle;  Prince  of  Wales),  56  M.  from  London, 
and  on  the  Cam,  a  narrow  stream  that  rambles  all  over 
the  town.  Tradition  gives  630  as  the  date  of  the 
foundation  of  the  University ;  but  the  oldest  college, 
Peterhouse  or  St,  Peter's,  can  only  be  referred  to  1257. 
The  public  buildings  are  the  Shire  Hall,  Town  Hall, 
University  halls  ana  library,  and  Fitzwilliam  Museum. 

There  are  17  colleges,  interior  in  architectural  beauty 
to  those  of  Oxford,  though  their  associations  are  quite 
as  interestinff.  Trinity  was  founded  by  Henry  "VlII. 
in  1546,  and  has  3  fine  quadrangles ;  a  splendid  hall 
in  the  Tudor  style ;  gardens ;  and  an  important  library, 
with  busts  of  Newton  and  Bacon.  Thorwaldsen's  statue 


124  CAMBRIDGE. 

of  Byron,  Newton's  telescope,  some  of  John  Miltou's 
MSS.,  etc.  Christ's  CoUege,  founded  in  1442,  was 
Milton's  college.  In  the  gardens  is  Milton^s  Mulberry' 
Tree.  The  quadrangle  was  rebuilt  by  Inigo  Jones. 
Jesus  College  (1496)  and  Chapel  are  very  Sne  build- 
ings, on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine  nunnery.  Caius 
(pronounced  Kees)  was  founded  in  1384,  and  enlarged 
in  1557  by  Dr.  Cams,  physician  to  Queen  Mary.  Re- 
built lately,  it  is  now  one  of  the  best.  Corpus 
Christ!  (1351)  contains  curious  portraits,  especially 
those  of  Sir  Thomas  More,  Wolsey,  Erasmus,  and 
Foxe,  the  autlior  of  the  Book  of  Martyrs,  King's 
College  (1441),  founded  by  Henry  VI.,  is  the  finest 
building  in  the  University.  The  chapel  is  the  finest 
specimen  of  perpendicular  Gothic  existing.  The 
roof,  unsupported  by  pillars,  contains  12  divisions  of 
exquisite  lace-work  tracery  in  stone.  The  24  stained- 
glass  windows,  each  50  ft.  high,  are  beautiful.  The 
music  is  exceptionally  fine.  The  visitor  ^should  go  to 
the  Sunday  service.  St.  John's,  founded  by  Mar- 
garet, the  mother  of  Henry  VII.,  in  1511,  has  4  quad- 
rangles, a  beautiful  chapel,  and  a  rare  old  library.  See 
also  Emmanmli  1584  (whose  graduates  founded  New 
England);  St.  Catherine's  (1475);  Clare  (1326); 
J)ov>ning  (1807) ;  Pembroke  (1347) ;  Sidney  Sussex 
(1596) ;  Magdalene  (1519)  ;  Trinity  Hall  (1347). 

The  most  striking  part  of  Cambridge  is  "thcBacks," 
"where  the  college  gardens  slope  down  to  the  river, 
overhung  by  beautiful  trees  and  crossed  by  handsome 
bridges.  The  site  of  Cambridge  is  flat,  and  forms  part 
of  the  great  Fen  Level. 

'« Not  far  from  Cambridge  is.  Newmarket,  the  fa- 
mous turf  resort,  which  became  popular  in  the  days  of 
James  I.,  who  had  a  hunting-seat  here.  Near  by  is 
Bury  St.  Edmunds,  where  an  abbey  (whose  noble 


ENGLAND.  125 

ruins  remain)  was  f  oundfe  by  Canute  to  commemorate 
the  martyrdom  of  Edmond.     We  proceed  next  to 

Bedford  (Swan  Inn  /  Clarence  Hotel ;  Bed  Lion), 
once  the  home  of  John  Bunyan.  His  chair,  in 
Bunyan  Meeting,  Mill-St.,  may  still  be  seen;  and 
Bedford  Jail,  where  he  wrote  a  portion  of  The 
PugriffCe  Progress,  still  exists.  Bunyan's  birthplace 
was  ElstoWf  1  M.  from  Bedford ;  and  there  his  cot- 
tage and  forge  are  shown.  Also  a  noble  abbey-ch. 
See  the  fine  statue  of  Bunyan,  preaching,  and  hold- 
ing the  Bible.  This  stands  on  St.  Peter's  Green. 
Scenes  from  Ttie  Pilgrim's  Progress on-^^eAesXAl.  The 
Duke  of  Bedford  gave  this  statue  to  the  town.  The 
philanthropist  Howard  was  born  at  Cardington,  2  M. 
distant.  The  Swan  Inn  occupies  the  site  of  the  old 
castle,  destroyed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  From 
Bedford  it  is  but  a  very  short  journey  to 

Northampton  (Angel  Hotel;  Qeo^^ge;  Plough), 
the  seat  of  the  boot  and  shoe  manufacture  (50,000 
inhab.).  20  Parliaments  were  held  here  between  the 
the  12th  and  14th  centuries ;  and  on  one  occasion  the 
University  was  transferred  hither  from  Oxford.  The 
Castle,  with  the  exception  of  one  tower,  was  demol- 
ished in  1662.  The  old  Hospital,  founded  in  honor  of 
Thomas  a  Becket,  is  near  the  S.  gate.  Interesting 
sights,  —  St.  Sepulchre  CA.,  built  by  the  Knights  Tem- 
plar, on  the  plaA  of  Christ's  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem ; 
the  Town  Hall;  the  Shire  Hall,  Statue  by  Chautrey 
of  Spencer  Perceval  in  All  Saints'  Ch.  Queen  Eleanor* s 
Cross  is  1  M.  S.  Near  this  relic  Henry  VI.  was  de- 
feated by  Warwick  in  1460.  AKhorp  Park,  seat  of 
Earl  Spencer,  with  famous  library  and  picture-gallery, 
7  M.  out.     Go  by  rail  from  Bedford  via  Bletchley  to 

Ojcford  (^Randolph  Hotel,  the  most  modern,  with  res- 
taurant; Clarendon;  Mitre  SkUd  Boeduc&,  in  the  cen^ 


126  OXFORD. 

of  the  town,  first-class  ;  Ki^s  Arms  Hotel;  Golden 
Gross  Hotel).  The  modern  town  contains  the  County 
Jail,  near  the  old  tower  of  Oxford  Castle ;  the  I'own 
Hall ;  and  the  Martyrs'  Memorial,  a  (Jothic  monu- 
ment in  St.  Giles,  near  the  spot  where  Cranmer, 
Ridley,  and  Latimer  were  burnt  at  the  stake,  in 
1555-6.  Oxford  as  a  seat  of  learning  dates  from  the 
time  of  Alfred  the  Great,  or  even  earlier.  The  origi- 
nal town  was  demolished  by  the  Danes.  The  tradi- 
tions of  modern  Oxford  go  back  to  the  Conquest, 
after  which  the  monasteries  founded  there  obtained 
great  fame  for  their  learning.  The  town- plan  is  a 
cross,  4  broad  streets  converging  from  the  cardinal 
points.  The  central  point  is  called  Gorfax,  a  cor- 
ruption of  Qitatre  tmes.  The  curve  of  High-St.. 
with  its  splendid  architectural  monuments,  makes  it 
one  of  the  finest  streets  in  Europe. 

Public  buildings  to  be  visited :  The  Schools;  Ashmoi- 
lean  Museum,  containing  the  Arundel  Marbles,  Bod- 
lean  Library,  with  its  interesting  portraits  ;  Iia>d' 
cliffe  Observatory;  Taylor  Institution;  University 
Galleries  (open  daily,  12-4),  containing  important 
drawings  by  Michael  Angelo  and  Raphael ;  univer- 
sity Museum,  a  modern  Gothic  building  in  the  Park. 
The  laboratories  are  worthy  of  notice  (open  daily, 
after  2  p.  m.).  See  the  beautiful  Gh,  of  St.  Mary. 
University  College  was  founded,  according  to 
tradition,  in  872,  by  Alfred  the  Great ,  but  it  dates 
historically  from  1280.  Imposing  high-towered  gate- 
ways, new  library,  etc.  Balliol  was  founded  by 
John  Balliol,  and  Devorgilla,  his  wife  (parents  of 
John  Balliol,  King  of  Scotland),  in  1268.  The  build- 
ing has  been  restored,  and  new  halls  built,  Merton 
(1264),  handsome  tower  and  curious  old  architecture. 
Two  quadrangles,  and  a  large  chapel.  Bzeter 
(1314),  fine  modern  spire  to  the  chapel  (a  copy  of  La 


ENGLAND.  127 

8ainte  ChapeUe,  at  Paris.  Very  large  buildings. 
Noted  timber  roof  in  hall.  Oriel  (1326),  where  at 
one  time  studied  Arnold,  Keble,  Newman.  Pusey, 
and  Wilberforce.  Queen's  (1481),  with  hall  de- 
signed by  Wren.  New  College  (1880),  one  of  the 
finest  architecturally,  with  beautiful  cloisters ;  fine 
chapel  and  splendid  choir.  Lincoln  (1427),  John 
Wesley's  college.  All  Souls'  (1487),  fine  buildings 
in  two  quadrangles.  Magnificent  chapel,  with  rere- 
dos.  Spacious  hall.  Magdalen  (pronounce  Maud- 
len\  founded  in  1457,  with  a  beautiful  campanile, 
cloisters,  gardens,  Addison's  walk  along  the  Cher- 
well.  Splendid  chapel  (famous  choral  service.  5  p.m. 
during  term).  Brasenose  (1612),  Bishop  Heber's 
college.  Corpus  Cbristi  (1516),  almost  unchanged 
for  ^  years.  Cbrist  Church,  founded  by  Car- 
dinal Wolsey  (1525).  Facade  400  ft.  long.  Attached 
to  this  foundation  is  the  Cathedral  of  Christ  Ch. 
(once  the  ch.  of  St.  Frideswide's  Priory).  The  great 
college  tower  contains  Oreat  Tom,  which  weighs 
17,0()0  lbs.  Fine  library  and  pictures.  Immense 
quadrangle.  Through  the  new  buildings  pass  into 
the  beautiful  Christ-Church  meadows  (50  acres  on 
the  rivers  Isis  and  Cherwell).  Trinity  (1554),  beau- 
tiful wardens  and  walks,  with  classical  tower  and 
chapel.  St.  John's  (1555),  magnificent  late  (Gothic 
buildings,  and  fine  gardens.  Jesus  (1571),  fre- 
quented largelyby  Welshmen.  Fine  hall,  chapel, 
and  library,  wadham  (1618),  beautiful  gardens. 
Fine  chapel  and  hall,  with  timber  roof.  Pembroke 
(1624),  Samuel  Johnson's  college.  "Worcester 
(1714),  beautiful  gardens  and  lake.  Keble,  built  by 
subscription  as  a  memorial  to  the  Rev.  John  Keble, 
in  1870. 

Oxford  to  London  by  Great  Western  Rly.,  63J  M.; 
br  N.  Western,  78  M.  (Us.,  8s.  4d.,  5s.  8d.). 


128  LONDON. 

London. 

Hotels. — Hotel  Cecil,  Thames  EmbankmeiKt,  new 
and  elegant;  Grand  Hotel,  Trafalgar-Sq. ;  MetropoU, 
Northumberland  Ave.;  Contiriental,  Waterloo  PK, 
expensive  but  comfortable:  Inn$  of  Court,  High  Hol- 
born  ;  Langham,  Portland  PI. ;  BucHnglkam  Palace 
Hotel,  Buckingham  Palace  Gate;  Wefitm%n%ter  Palace^ 
Victoria-St. ;  Be  Keysei'^s  Boyal,  cor.  Blackf riars  Bge. ; 
First  Avenue,  High  Holborn ;  Savoy,  on  Thames  ; 
Lang'Sj  16  New  Bond-St.;  Alexandra,  St.  (Jeorge*s 
PI.,  Hyde  Park  Cor.;  Imperial,  Holborn  Viaduct ; 
Bath,  Arlington-St. ;  HatchetVs  (White  Horse  Cellar), 
where  coaches  start;  (?Zan<^6*«,  Brook-St. ,  Grosvenor- 
Sq.,  the  dearest  in  London.  Each  great  rly.-sta.  has  a 
vast  hotel  at  or  near  it :  Tfie  Great  Western  Hotel,  at 
Paddingtonstat.;  the  Midland  Grand,  at  St.  Pancras; 
the  Cheat  Northern  Railway  Hotel,  at  King's  Cross; 
the  Euston  and  Victoria  Hotels,  at.  Euston  ;  the  City 
Terminus  Hotel,  at  Cannon-St. ;  thelnternationaZ,  near 
London  Bridge  ;  the  Charing  Cross,  central,  but  not 
very  good,  and  dear ;  the  Grosveiwr,  at  Victoria;  and 
tlie  Holborn  Viaduct.  Morley^s,  Trafalgar-Square; 
FarnivaVs  Inn,  Higii  Holborn ;  the  Golden  Cross, 
Strand  ;  the  Craven,  Craven -St. ;  the  Cathedral,  48  St. 
Paul's  Churchyard  ;  and  the  Castle  and  FaZeon,  5  Al- 
dersgate-St., — are  good  houses.  In  Albemarle.  New 
Bond,  Dover,  Arlington,  St.  James,  and  Clifford  Sts., 
are  many  fa^ionable  hotels.  In  and  around  Covent 
Garden  and  the  Strand  are  man)r  excellent  houses. 
The  I'amstoekfmii  New  Hummums,  in  Covent  Garden, 
receive  gentlemen  only.  Covent  Garden  Hotel,  corner 
Bouthampton-St. ;  Ashley's,  13  Henrietta-St. ;  Bedford, 
14  Piazzas,  Covent  Garden;  HojxeWs,  near  Exeter  Hall, 
— may  be  recommended.  At  the  great  houses,  single 
rooms,  4s.-15s  per  day ;  attendance.  Is.  6d. ;  breakfast, 
Ss.-3s.  6d.;»to6^  d'hote  dinner,  without  wine,   5s.; 


ENGLAND.  129 

luncheon,  a  la  carte.  In  some  few  hotels,  dinner  is  7s. 
6d.  In  hotels  of  the  second  order,  bedrooms  cost  2s. 
6d.-6s. ; attendance,  Is.-ls.  6d. ;  breakfast,  2s.  6d. ;  din- 
ner, 3s.-4s.  Beware  of  ordering  dinner  d  la  carte  in  the 
coffee-rooms:  the  bill  becpmes  enormous.  If  you 
stay  more  than  3-4  days,  the  servants  who  wait  on  you 
all  expect  gratuities.  Boarding.— There  are  several 
excellent  private  boarding  establishments  patronized 
mainly  by  Americans. 

Restaurants. — London  is  poor  in  these  compared 
with  Paris  and  other  Continental  cities.  We  will 
mention  Verrey's  and  Blanchard'6,  in  Regent  St. ;  Cafe 
RayaZy  Regent-St. ;  Eolborn  (with  music),  218  High 
Holborn ;  Criterion,  Piccadilly  ;  St.  James  (with 
music),  Piccadilly.  At  these  last  three  dinner  costs 
3s.  6d. ;  attendance,  6d.  The  Continental,  Regent-St. ; 
Romxmo'%,  399  Strand;  Premtali'8,  Arundel-St.— are 
suitable  for  families,  as  are  the  others  above  men- 
tioned. For  bachelors,  we  recommend  the  Bltie  Post, 
in  Cork-St.,  behind  the  Royal  Academy  of  Arts  ;  the 
Albion,  in  Russell-St.,  Covent  Garden  ;  Simpson's, 
Strand;  Bristol,  Cork-St. ;  the  Gaiety,  Gaiety  Theatre, 
Strand;  the 5<?r«e«^^g, Tottenham  Court  Road;  Gatti's, 
Adelaide-St.,  Strand;  i>r^A^'« (German),  395  Strand; 
Monico's,  15  Tichborne-St. ;  the  Grosftenor,  136  New 
Bond-St.;  (7r<?«6y  IfoW,  Bishopsgate.  Furnished  Lodg- 
ings without  board  are  not  expensive.  Very  good 
double  bedrooms  may  be  had  for  15s.-21s.  per  week; 
breakfast  per  person,  in  the  house,  12s.  6d.-15B.  per 
week;  single  bedrooms,  8s.-14s.  per  week. 

A  Round-Trip  Omnibns  Route.— From  Trafal- 
gar-Square take  a  Blackwall  (blue)  omnibus  via  Char- 
ing Cross,  the  Strand,  Fleet-St.,  Ludgate  Hill,  Cheap- 
si<fe,  the  Bank,  Cornhill,  Aldgate,  Whitechapel,  Com- 
mercial Road,  to  Burdett  Road.  Get  down  here,  and 
take  tramway  (red  horse-car)  to  Victoria  Park .  Walk 
down  the  Victoria  Park  Road,  and  at  the  end  of  the 


130  LONDON. 

road  take  the  tram  (blue)  to  City  Road,  past  Hackney 
and  Old-Street  Road.  City  Road  crosses  Old-Street 
Road.  *  Take  tram  (blue)  to  Archway  Tavern  by  City 
Road,  Liverpool  Road,  and  HoUoway  Road.  From 
HoUoway  Road  a  car  may  be  taken  ma  Caledonian 
Road,  to  King's  Cross,  and  from  King's  Cross  take 
(green)  omnibus  to  The  Castle,  Camden  ToWn.  Walk 
to  the  Bntannia,  Camden  Town,  and  take  a  (claret) 
Oamden  Town  omnibus  to  Bishop's  Road  through 
Park-8t.,  St.  John's  Wood  Road,  past  Lord's  Cricket 
Ground,  Grove  Road,  Church-St., Paddington  Green. 
From  where  this  omnibus  stops  another  (yellow)  may 
betaken  via  Edgware  Road,  Oxford-St.,  Holborn, 
theViaduct,Cheapside,  KingWilliam-St.,  and  London 
Bridge.  From  London  Bridge  take  a  (green)  omnibus 
to  the  Elephant  and  Castle.  From  this  point  take  a 
tram  to  Westminster,  and  then  (yellow)  omnibus  to 
■Trafalgar-  Square. 

The  Undergronnd  RIy.  (Metropolitan)  will  be 
found  very  convenient.  The  most  central  stats,  are  : 
Charing  Cross,  Temple,  Blackfriars,  Mansion  House, 
Westminster,  St.  James  Park,  Victoria,  Sloane- 
Square,  S.  Kensington, Gloucester  Road.  These  roads 
allow  you  to  effect  a  great  savinff  of  time.  Tram^Rrays 
are  now  numerous  (fares,  2d.  -3a.).  Trains  run  every 
6  min.  all  day  between  Charing  Cross  and  Cannon - 
St.,  calling  at  Waterloo  Junction.  This  is  a  con- 
venient way  of  getting  from  the  centre  of  the  town 
into  the  E.  district.     Steamboats,  see  p.  150. 

(7«ad;^are».— Within  a  4-M.  radius,  of  which  Charing 
Cross  is  the  centre,  the  fares  are  regulated  thus :  For 
any  distance  under  2  M.  ,1s. ;  for  every  additional  M.  or 
part  thereof,  6d.  Within  the  central  part  of  London, 
Xhe  ordinary  cab-course  is  rarely  more  than  Is. ;  but 
the  cabman  generally  demands  Is.  6d.  from  the 
stranger.  Outside  the  4-M.  circle,  a  special  agree- 
ment must  be  made.     4-wheeled  cabs,  locally  called 


.  /.    JU 


)(  ,.(.;t..MH 


*"w>Mt 


i«Uv 


•nixi9'  >  r't,  •)P,iJoU  /U' 


ENGLAND.  131 

grawlerit  inside  the  radius,  for  1  lir.  or  less,  Ss. ;  for 
every  additional  15  min. ,  6d.  Baggage,  2d.  per  pk. ; 
bansoms,  per  h.,  2s.  6d. 

Tbeatees,  etc. — Most  of  them  are  open  in  summer. 
The  opera-houses,  Catfent  Garden,  and  Her  Majesty's 
Theatre,  in  the  Haymarket,  are  usually  open  April- 
Aug.  Prices,  2s.  6.-£l  Is.  for  orchestra  stalls.  Gen- 
teel comedy,  at  the  Haymarket,  in  the  Haymarket ; 
the  Prince  of  Wales's,  in  Tottenham-St. ;  the  Princess's 
in  Oxford-8t. ;  the  St.  James's,  in  King-St. ;  the  Vd'ude- 
mlle,  in  the  Strand;  the  Criterion,  in  Piccadilly;  and 
the  Court,  in  Sloane-Square.  For  melodrama  and 
sensational  pieces,  go  to  Drury  Lane,  in  Catherine- 
St.,  the  Adkphi,  in  the  Strand,  and  the  Princess's, 
For  opera  bouffe,  ballet,  and  spectacle,  visit  the  Al- 
ham>bra,  in  Leicester-Square  ;  the  Gaiety,  in  the 
Strand;  the  Globe,  in  Newcastle  Street.,  Strand;  the 
Olympic,  in  Drury  Lane;  the  Opera  Comique,  in  the 
Strand;  the  Royalty,  in  Dean-St.,  Soho  ;  and  the 
Strand  Theatre.  The  Lyceum,  on  Wellington-St.,  is 
the  leading  theatre,  and  there  Shakespearian  tracedy 
and  melodramas  are  produced.  Mr.  Irving  and  Miss 
Ellen  Terry  play  here.  The  E.  End  theatres,  of 
which  there  are  several,  are  worth  a  visit,  to  get  an 
idea  of  how  the  lower  classes  take  their  amusement. 
Music-halls  abound.  The  best  are:  The  Oxford,  in 
OrfOtd-St.;  the  Canterbury,  in  Westminster  Bridge 
Road,  and  the  Pavilion,  in  Piccadilly  Circus.  The 
Aquarium,  at  Westminster,  gives  varied  entertain- 
ments. Visitors  in  winter  will  find  the  best  panto- 
mimes at  Drury  Lane  and  Co  vent  Garden.  Sanger's 
llieatre  (formerly  Ashley's),  in  Westminster  Bridge 
Road,  is  worth  visiting.  It  has  a  stage  for  dramatic 
performances  and  a  riding  track.  Promenade  con- 
certs are  held  in  Aug.  and  Sept.,  at  Covent  Garden  ; 
and  good  concerts,  with  ballad  singing,  are  plenty 
during  the  season  at  St.  James's  Hall  and  the  Royal 


132     LONDON.— ST.  PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL. 

Albert  Hall,  Drury  Lane  Theatre  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  histrionic  triumphs,  and  among  its  actors 
and  actresses  were  Nell  Gwynne,  Mrs.  Siddons,  John 
Kendall,  Edmund  Kean,  Garrick,  and  Macready. 
For  announcement  of  operas  and  plays»  see  the  I'imea 
theatrical  column  (daily).  Oratorios  at  Exeter  Hall. 
In  the  Hanover-Square  Rooms,  the  concerts  of  the 
Philharmonic  Society  and  the  Royal  Academy  of 
Music  take  place.  The  new  Philharmonic  and  the 
Musical  Society  of  London  have  their  concerts  in  St. 
James's  Hall,  Piccadilly.  In  Piccadilly^  is  the  Bg^P' 
Han  Hall,  where  Artemus  Ward  made  his  appearance. 
Moore  and  Burge88'9  Minstrels  are  in  St  James's  Hall. 
Mme.  Tussaud's  WaxiD07*k8  are  in  the  Marylebone 
Road  (daily,  11-6,  Is.),  with  200  figures  of  celebrities. 

Llyn  diin,  the  *'hill  fortress  by  the  pool,"  was  an 
ancient  British  city,  on  Ludgate  or  Tower  Hill,  en- 
walled  by  King  Lud,  and  made  into  the  Roman  star 
lion  Londinium,  a.  d.  43.  Tacitus  reported  it  "illus- 
trious for  its  extensive  commerce,"  and  Bede,  400 
years  later,  called  it  "  an  emporium  of  man^r  nations." 
The  population  in  the  '* Metropolitan  District"  of 
London  is  over  4,500,000,  exceeding  that  of  all  Scot- 
land, or  Denmark,  or  Switzerland.  The  city  lies  be- 
tween Temple  Bar  (W. )  and  Aldgate  (E.),  the  Thames 
(S.)  and  Smithfield  and  Finsbury  Circus  (N.),  and  has 
about  60,000  iuhab.,  and  the  great  offices,  warehenees, 
etc.  Westminster  lies  between  the  city  and  Chelsea, 
Oxford-St.  and  the  Thames,  and  has  the  chief  palaces 
and  modern  streets.  There  are  also  eight  boroughs, 
and  scores  of  annexed  villages,  in  the  *'  Metropolitan 
District,"  which  covers  690  square  M.,  having  6.600 
M.  of  streets,  1,000,000  gas  lamps,  550,000  buildings, 
1.100  churches,  and  500  hotels.  20,000  vessels  enter 
the  port  yearly,  and  there  are  $500,000,000  of  exports. 

St.  Paul's  Cathedral  was  built  by  Wren  in  1675- 
1710,  on  a  site  before  occupied  by  a  temple  of  Diana* 
^  Roman  British  ch. ,  and  King  Ethclbert's  ch. ,  built 


ENGLAND.  133 

in  610  and  destroyed  in  1666.  Here  King  John  yielded 
to  the  Pope  (in  1213) ;  Wyckliife  was  cited  for  heresy 
(1837) ;  and  Tyndale's  Sew  Testament  was  burned 
(1537).  St.  Paul's  is  a  Latin  Cross,  with  nave  600  X 
118  ft.;  transepts,  250  ft.  long;  inner  dome,  225  ft. 
high  ;  and  height  to  top  of  cross,  404  ft.  St.  Peter's, 
and  Milan  and  Seville  Cathedrals  are  larger.  It  is 
open  from  10  a.  m.  to  dark.  Services  at  8  and  10  a. 
M..  and  4  and  8  p.  m.  Fee  at  Crypt,  6d.;  Whisper- 
ing and  Stone  Galleries,  6d.;  Librarjr,  6d.;  Ball,  Is. 
6d.  The  W.  front  is  flanked  by  high  campaniles. 
The  interior  is  vast,  but  bare.  See  organ  and  wood 
carvings  in  the  choir,  and  monuments  of  Howard,, 
the  philanthropist ;  Donne,  the  poet-dean  ;  Dean 
Milman  ;  Bishop  Heber  ;  Dr.  Johnson  ;  Hallam,  the 
historian  ;  Lord  Nelson  ;  Gen.  Pakenham  ;  Sir  John 
Moore  ;  Lord  Rodney,  etc.  In  the  crypt  are  the 
porphyry  and  marble  sarcophagi  of  Wellington,  Nel- 
son, andCollingwood  ;  Wellington's  hearse  ;  and  the 
tombs  of  the  artists  Keynolds,  West,  Lawrence,  Tur- 
ner, Fuseli,  and  Barry.  From  the  S.  aisle,  ascend  to 
Library  (10,000  vols.),  Whispering  Gallery,  Stone 
Gallery,  and  Ball.  Hare  speaks  of  St.  Paul's  a» 
"sublimely  grandiose,  with  a  sooty  dignity  all  its 
own  ";  and  Hawthorne  found  it  **  unspeakably  grand 
and  noble.  .  .  ^  .  It  would  not  be  nearly  so  grand 
without  this  drapery  of  black." 

Paternoster  Row^  famous  for  books,  is  N.  of  the 
Cathedral ;  and  S.  are  the  Deanery,  Choristers*  School^. 
and  HercHd's  College.  Down  the  Row  is  Warmek  Lane,. 
once  the  haunt  of  Lord  Warwick,  the  king-maker. 
The  General  Post-OflSce  and  Telegraph  Office  are 
immense  buildings  near  by,  nearly  hiding  St.  Vedast's 
Ch.,  one  of  Wren's  masterpieces.  The  wealthy 
Ohrlst's  Hospital,  founded  by  Edward  VI. ,  on  the 
site  of  a  Greyfriars'  convent,  has  1,200  blue-robed 
pupils;  Richardson, Coleridge,  Lamb,  and  Leigh  Hunt 
were  educated  her«.    Newgate,  a  famous  prison. 


134  NEWGATE.  —  GUILDHALL. 

"Where  Jack  Sheppard,  Titus  Gates,  Wm.  Penn,  and 
Daniel  Defoe  were  confined,  is  in  the  Old  Bailey, 
reached  from  Ludgate  Hill.  N.  of  Ohrist^s  is  St. 
Bartholomew's  Hospital^  a  great  quadrangle 
founded  as  a  priory  in  1103,  and  converted  into 
a  hospital  by  Henry  VIIL  In  the  Great  Hall 
are  paintings  by  Hogarth,  Lawrence,  Reynolds, 
etc.  The  grand  Norman  Ch.  dates  from  1102,  and 
bas  rare  monuments.  The  vast  adjacent  Smith- 
jQleld  Market  (3 1-2  acres  under  roof)  occupks  the 
ground  once  used  for  the  revels,  miracle-plays,  and 
tournaments  of  Bartholomew  Fair,  and  later  for 
the  martyrdoms  under  Bloody  Mary  and  Elizabeth. 
Here,  also,  Wat  Tyler  and  Sir  Wm.  Wallace  were 
put  to  death.  Newgate-St.  leads  to  the  noble  Hol- 
bom  Viaduct,  spanning  a  deep  valley,  at  one  end 
of  which  is  St,  Sepulchre's  Ch,  (Jobn  Rogers  was 
its  rector),  containing  the  tomb  of  Captain  John 
Smith.  Near  Smithfield  is  the  picturesque  Char- 
terhouse^ a  rich  school  and  asylum  on  the  site  of  a 
Carthusian  convent  (1371).  Among  the  pupils  here 
were  Steele,  Addison,  Blackstone,  Wesley,  Grote, 
Lovelace,  Barrow,  Eastlake,  John  Leech,  Thirlwall, 
Thackeray,  and  Havelock.  See  the  Elizabethan 
€hreat  Chaniber;  cloisters,  chapel,  and  pictures  in 
the  Master's  Lodge  ;bX90,  in  adjacent  Bunhill 
Fields^  tombs  of  Bunyan,  Defoe,  and  Dr.  Watts  ; 
and,  in  St.  John's  Lane,  Clerkenwell,  the  rare  old 
St.  John's  Gate,  built  in  1504.  The  Guildhall, 
originally  built  1411-31,  but  almost  entii^ely  de- 
stroyed in  the  Great  Fire  of  1666,  has  the  muni- 
cipal .  offices,  a  Gothic  Library^  a  museum  (Ro* 
man  antiques,  etc.),  a  beautiful  crypt,  a'^d  fine 
portraits.  The  Great  Hall,  153  x  50  fet..,  haa 
noble  timber  roof,  stained  windows,  and  th^ 


ENGLAND.  135 

wooden  giants,  Gog  and    Magog.      Gresham  Col- 
lege (1570)  and  Ooldmith^  Hall  are  close  by. 

Cheapside  is  a  busy  street,  with  handsome  shops, 
from  which  run  Bread-St. , where  Milton  was  born ,  and 
Milk-8t.,  where  Sir  Thomas  More  was  born  and  on 
which  stood  the  Mermaid  Inn,  beloved  by  Shakes- 
peare, Ben  Jonson,  Beaumont  and  Fletcher,  Donne,, 
etc.  Bow  Gh.^  built  by  Wren,  rises  over  a  Norman 
crypt,  and  is  crowned  by  a  great  dragon,  on  a  tower 
235  ft.  high.  Whoever  is  born  witliin  sound  of  its 
bells  is  a  "  cockney."  Mercei^a'  Hall,  with  its  rich  pil- 
lared court,  is  on  the  site  of  Thomas  ^  Becket's 
birthplace  (1119).  The  Grocers*  and  Armorers'  (fine 
hall  and  rich  armor)  HaHsare  farther  on.  The  Man- 
Bion  House  (1739-1753),  and  famous  for  the  Egyp- 
tian Hall,  is  the  palace  of  the  Lord  Mayor.  The 
costly  new  Queen  Victoria-St.  leads  thence,  by 
Apothecaries*  HaU  and  TJie  Times  Office,  to  Black- 
friars  Bridge  (J  M.).  Opposite  the  Mansion  House 
is  the  low,  massive,  and  broad-bai^ed  Bank  of  Eng- 
land, which  keeps  $75-100,000.000  in  coin  in  its 
vaults.  The  splendid  Royal  Exchange,  with  its 
rich  carvings,  Corinthian  colonnades,  and  campanile, 
and  the  Stock  Exchange,  are  near  by.  Statues  of 
Wellington  and  Peabody,  near  Exchange;  also 
Crosby  Hail,  built  in  1466 ;  and  St.  Helen's  Ch.,oi 
the  13th  centuiy.  In  Comhill,  Gray,  the  poet,  was. 
bom.  St,  Micrm^s  Gh.  was  built  by  Wren,  and  St^ 
ChtheHne  Cree  by  Inigo  Jones.  Lombard-St,  is  the 
Wall-St.  of  Lonaon ;  Mindng  Lane,  the  headquar- 
ters of  colonial  trade;  Mark  Lavs,  the  grain  mar- 
ket. In  St,  Olate's  Gh.  is  the  tomb  of  Pepys  ;  and  in 
Trinity  Gh.  (formerly  a  Minorite  nunnery)  is  the 
Puke  of  Suffolk's  head.  ^.  Smthin's  Gh.  has  the 
famous  London  stone,  a  Roman  milliarium,  built 
into  its  wall.  The  venerable  St.  Saviour's  Gh.  if 
over  London  Bridge,  and  has  a  beautiful  Lady  Chap 


13«  THE  TOWEK. 

and  Choir,  and  tombs  of  Massinger,  Fletcher,  Gow- 
er,  and  Shakespeare's  brother.  Beyond  is  the  an- 
cient Guy*s  Hospital,  in  whose  oh.  Astley  Cooper 
is  buried.  King -William  St.  runs  from  the  Bank, 
by  St.  Mary  Woolnoth^s  Ck.  and  the  site  of  Fal- 
staff's  Boar's  Head  Tavern^  to  London  Bridge, 
«38  ft.  long,  built  in  1825-31,  at  a  qost  of  $10,- 
000,000,  on  5  granite  arches.  20,000  carriages  and 
100,000  pedestrians  cross  it  daily.  The  Romans 
and  the  Saxons  had  bridges  here.  The  Monu- 
ment, 202  ft.  high,  built  by  Wren  in  1671-77  to 
commemorate  the  Great  Fire  of  1666  (which  de- 
stroyed $357,000,000  of  property)  is  close  by.  Fine 
Tiew  from  its  top  (fee,  3d.).  Thaines-St.  was  Chau- 
cer's home,  1379-85.  St.  Magnus  the  Martyr^  one 
of  Wren's  Chs.,  has  Miles  Coverdale's  tomb. 
Farther  E.  is  Billingsgate,  the  famous  flsh-market. 
The  Custom  Hotise  is  490  ft.  long,  on  a  quay  be- 
side the  Thames. 

The  Tower  is  "  historically  the  most  interest- 
ing spot  in  England"  (open  daily,  10-4,  6d.;  Mon. 
and  Sat. ,  free).  A  stone  bridge  leads  to  the  Outer 
Bail ;  and  the  Bell  Tower  and  Traitors'  Gate  are 
passed  on  the  way  to  the  Inner  Bail,  in  which  rises 
the  famous  White  Tower,  built  by  William  the 
Conqueror,  on  the  site  of  a  Roman  fort.  It  is  96 
X  116  ft.  in  area,  and  95  ft.  high,  with  turreted 
walls  12  ft.  thick.  Here  Richard  II .  abdicated,  his 
throne  (1399),  and  James  I.  of  Scotland  was  im- 
mured. The  beautiful  Norman  Chapel  of  St.  John 
:s  here  ;  also  the  Council  Chamber  and  Banqueting 
Hall.  Among  the  prisoners  of  the  Tower  have  been 
King  John  of  France,  King  David  Bruce  of  Scot- 
land, the  Dukes  of  Orleans  and  Marlborough,  Wil- 
liam Wallace,  Archbishop  Cranmer,  Lord  Straf- 
torJ,  and  William  Lord  Russell.    Outside  is  a  col- 


ENGLAND.  137 

lection  of  ancient  cannon ;  and  the  Hone  Armottry,  full 
of  trophies,  ancient  armor  of  all  nations,  and  22  eques- 
trian figures  in  full  £nglish,  Burguudian,  and  German 
armor,  of  dates  from  1272  to  1688,  and  once  worn  bj 
princes  and  nobles.  Upstairs  are  trophies  from  Quebec, 
Malta»  India,  New  Zealand,  etc.  Queen  Elizabeth*» 
Armoury  contains  weapons  of  the  Elizabethan  age,  the 
block  on  which  Loixl  Lovat  was  decapitated,  and  the 
axe  which  struck  ofP  the  Earl  of  Essex's  head.  Ad- 
jacent is  the  10  X  8  cell  in  which  Sir  l^'alter  Baleigh 
was  confined,  1603-16.  The  Bloody  Tower  was  Uiat  in 
which  the  sons  of  Edward  IV.  were  murdered ;  Lord 
Dudley  was  imprisoned  in  the  Beauchamp  Tower;  Prin- 
cess Elizabeth,  \\\  the  Bell  Tower;  Lady  Jane  Grey,  in  the 
Brick  Tower.  The  Duke  of  Clarence  was  put  to  death 
ill  tlie  Bowyer  Tot/fer;  and  Henry  Yl.  in  Wakefield  Tower. 
In  the  Jewel  House  are  the  Crown  Jewels,  valued 
at  ♦15,000,000:  St.  Edward's  crown ;  Victoria's  crown, 
with  2,783  diamonds,  and  a  wonderful  sapphire  and 
ruby  (it  cost  3^560,000);  several  other  crowns;  the 
royal  sceptre,  and  other  sceptres  and  orbs ;  the  Koh-i- 
Noor  diamond ;  etc.  In  the  cemetery  attached  to  the 
ancient  chapel  of  SI.  Peter  ad  Vincula  are  the  remains 
of  Anne  Boieyn,  Sir  Thomas  More,  two  Earls  of  Essex, 
Lord  Somerset,  Lady  Jane  Grey,  the  Dukes  of  North- 
umberland and  Monmouth,  and  other  noble  victims. 
On  Tower  Hill  stand  Trinity  House,  whose  brethren 
care  for  the  British  lighthouses  and  buoys,  and  the 
Royal  Blint.  William  Penn  was  born  on  Tower  Hill ; 
and  the  poet  Otway  died  there.  St.  Katlierines  and 
London  Docks  are  E.  of  the  Tower,  with  vast  crowded 
warehouses.  London  Docks  cover  120  acres,  and  cost 
$20,000,000.  Farther  down  are  other  vast  docks,  the 
largest  in  the  world.  N.  W.  of  the  Tower  are  Bethnal 
Green  Musettm  and  Victoria  Park,  In  tlic  Swedish  Ch. 
at  Shadwelly  Swcdeuborg  is  buried. 


138  FLEET-STREET.  —  THE  TEMPLE. 

Blackfriars  Bridge,  1,272  ft.  long,  on  granite  piers, 
is  named  from  a  monastery  formerly  hard  by,  founded 
in  1276,  and  where  Cardinal  Wolsey  divorced  Katherine 
of  Aragon  from  Henry  VIII.  Shakespeare  and  Ben 
Jonson  formerly  lived  at  Blackfriars.  The  Victoria 
Embankment  runs  along  the  N.  bank  of  the  Thames, 
from  Blackfriars  to  Westminster  Bridge,  If  M.,  occu- 
pied by  a  road  and  walks  100  ft.  wide.  This  work  was 
done,  1864-70,  at  a  cost  of  #10,000,000.  It  is  adorned 
with  trees  and  gardens,  and  statues  of  Mill,  Outram, 
and  Brunei.  Here  also  stands  Cleopatra's  Needle,  the 
great  Egyptian  obelisk.  See  also  the  ancient  Water- 
gate of  York  House,  built  by  Inigo  Jones.  On  the  site 
of  Durham  House  is  the  Adelphi  Terrace,  wliere  King 
Kamehamelia  II.  and  David  Garrick  died. 

Fleet-St.  runs  from  near  St.  Paul's  to  the  Strand, 
passing  Congregational  Memorial  Hall,  on  the  site 
of  Fleet  Prison,  made  famous  by  Dickens ;  the  office  of 
Punch;  St.  Bride's  Ch.,  built  by  Wren,  near  site  of 
Bridewell  Prison,  with  tomb  of  Richardson  the  nov- 
elist; Bolt  Court,  where  Dr.  Johnson  lived  (1776-' 
84)  and  died,  and  Cobbett  labored;  Cheshire  Cheese 
Inn,  frequented  by  Johnson,  Boswell,  and  Goldsmith ; 
Whitefriars,  on  the  site  of  aii  ancient  Carmelite  monas- 
tery; Alsatia  (down  Bouverie-St.),  the  home  of  rogues, 
described  in  Scott's  Fortunes  of  Nigel ;  the  site  of 
Izaak  Walton's  hosiery-sliop,  1624-43 ;  the  Gothic  Gh. 
of  St.  Dunstan  in  the  West;  Mitre  Court,  and  its  famous 
old  inn;  and  the  New  Record  Office  (open  10-4),  a  stately 
Tudor  building,  containing  the  Domesday  Book.  The 
Temple  was  founded  by  the  Knights  Templar  in  1184» 
and  reverted  to  the  Crown  on  their  dissolution,  in  1313. 
In  1346  it  was  leased  to  the  law  schools,  which  have 
ever  since  occupied  it.  The  buildings  extend  from 
Fleet- St.  to  the  famous  Temple  Gardens,  where  the 


ENGLAND.  13^ 

War  of  the  Roses  broke  out.  The  Middle  Temple  has 
a  splendid  Elizabethan  Gothic  hall  (built  1573),  with 
dark  oaken  ceiling  and  princely  portraits.  Dr.  John* 
son,  Chaucer,  Blackstone,  Lamb,  and  Oliver  Goldsmith 
lived  in  the  Middle  Temple ;  amd  the  latter  is  buried  in 
the  yard  of  the  very  beautiful  Temple  Ch*  (open  10-12, 
1-4,  daily;  6d.),  built  in  1185-1240,  which  has  quaint 
old  Templars'  monuments,  rich  stained  windows,  and 
polished  pillars  of  Purbeck  marble.  Nearly  opposite, 
across  Eleet-St.,  are  the  vast  and  superb  new  Law 
Coarto,  in  Gothic  architecture,  which  have  cost  over 
$5,000,000.  Farther  N.  is  the  famous  Lincoln's  Inn, 
the  home  of  lawyers,  with  a  great  library,  a  quaint 
chaj[>el  built  by  Inigo  Jones,  and  a  handsome  Tudor 
.  dinin^-hall.  Pitt,  More,  and  Brougham  long  lived  here. 
In  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields  is  the  Royal  CoUege  of  8ur» 
geone,  with  a  vast  museum ;  near  by  is  the  Soane 
Museum,  with  rare  MSS.  and  early  books,  antique 
gems,  mediaeval  and  Renaissance  curiosities,  and 
paintings  by  Hogarth,  Turner,  Eastlake,  Reynolds. 
Gray's  Inn,  on  the  N.  side  of  Hoi  born,  has  been  a 
law  school  since  1871.  Bacon  was  a  member  here. 
Reyond  the  monument  on  the  site  of  Temple  Bar 
(built  in  1670 ;  taken  down  1878),  Flee^8t.  is  con- 
tinued as  the  Strand,  connecting  the  city  and  the 
W.  find.  8i.  Clement  Danes  Oh.  stands  over  the 
tombs  of  Harold  Harefoot  and  other  Danish  war- 
riors. Dr.  Johnson  used  to  worship  here ;  Joe 
liiUer  and  the  poet  Otway  are  buried  in  the  ch.- 
yard.  Hard  by  is  Clements  Inn,  sacred  to  law* 
yers,  and  often  mentioned  by  Shakespeare.  Essex^ 
Arundel,  Norfolk,  and  Surrey-Sts.,  named  from 
the  palaces  of  the  great  nobles  formerly  there- 
abouts, diverge  to  the  Embankment.  In  the  latter 
lived  Congreve  and  Sale ;  Peter  the  Great  lived  in 


140     WATERLOO  BRIDGK  —  CO  VENT  GARDEN, 

Buckingham-St.  Thomas  a  Becket  was  priest  of  the 
Ch.  of  SL  Mary  le  Sirand.  Voltaire  lived  iu  Maiden 
Lane.  Somerset  House  is  a  vast  Government  build- 
ing, on  tlie  site  of  the  Lord  Protector's  Palace,  with  a 
splendid  front  towards  •the  Tliames.  Here  may  be 
seen  (10-3  daily)  the  wills  of  Holbein,  Shakespeare, 
Van  Dyck,  Newton,  Dr.  Johnson,  and  Napoleon  I. 
l^aterioo  Bridge  was  built  at  a  cost  of  f  5,000,000. 
Exeter  Hall  stands  in  this  region  of  theatres,  and  is  a 
famous  centre  of  reli^ous  movements.  The  Chapel 
Royal,  Savoy,  a  Gothic  ch.,  with  ancient  tombs,  is  in 
Savoy-St.  It  was  built  in  1505,  on  the  site  of  the 
Savoy  Pahice,  given  by  Henry  III.  to  Peter  of  Savoy ; 
owned  by  John  of  Gaunt ;  destroyed  by  Wat  Tyler's 
mob ;  and  replaced  by  Henry  VII.  with  a  hospitAl.  In 
the  Palace,  Chaucer  wrote  several  poems ;  and  there 
King  John  of  France  died.  To  the  N.  is  Covent 
Ckurden,  the  chief  fruit,  flower,  and  vegetable  market 
of  London  (visit  before  7  a.m.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  or  Sat.), 
on  site  of  convent  gardens  granted  to  the  Dukes  of 
Bedford  in  1551,  and  still  held  by  them.  Here  lived 
Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  Bishop  Berkeley,  Lord  Crewe,  Sir 
Godfrey  Kneller,  etc.;  and  the  poet  Marvell  and^he 

Gter  Turner  dwelt  in  Mai(fe»  Lane,  Inigo  Jones 
5  Si.  Paul's  Ch,,  in  whose  yard  Samud  Butler 
(*'Hadibras"),  Sir  Peter  Lely,  "  Peter  Pindar,"  the 
dramatist  Wycherley,  and  the  famous  wood-carver  Grin- 
liny  Gibbons,  are  buried.  The  Royal  Italian  OperO'TloHeft 
is  in  Covent  Garden ;  and  near  it  is  the  Floral  Hall. 
At  Charing  Cross  is  a  modern  copy  of  a  cross 
erected  near  its  site  by  Edward  I.,  in  1201.  There 
is  an  ancient  equestrian  statue  of  Charles  I.  at 
Charing  Cross.  "The  full  tide  of  existence  is  at 
Charing  Cross,"  said  Dr.  Johnson.  Harry  Vane, 
Barrow,  and  Johnson  lived  hereabouts. 


ENGLAND.  141 

The  splendid  Trafalgar  Square  contains  a  col. 
umn  177  ft.  high,  with  a  colossal  statue  of  Nelson, 
and  colossal  lions  designed  by  Landseer.  Else- 
where  are  statues  ofiHavelock,  George  IV.,  and  Sir 
Charles  Napier.  On  one  side  sto<S  Narthwmber^ 
land  House,  the  palace  of  the  Percies,  bought  by 
the  Board  of  Works  for  $2,500,000,  and  demolished 
in  1874.  On  part  of  its  site  stands  the  Grand  Ho- 
tel, The  Ch,  of  8t,  Martin  in  the  Fields  has  a  fine 
Grecian  front ;  and  in  its  yard  lie  Roubillac  the  sculp- 
tor,  Farquhar  the  dramatist,  and  Nell  Gwyime.  The 
magnificent  National  Oallery  (free,  open  Mon., 
Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.,  10  a.m.,  till  dark ;  Thurs.  and 
Fri.  afternoons,  6d.),  N.  of  tlie  Square,  has  a  classic 
fafadc,  460  ft.  long.  It  contains  over  1,000  pictures, 
and  is  visited  by  nearly  1,000,000  persons  yearly. 
Each  picture  has  its  title  and  artist  mscribed  upon 
it.  Fine  busts  and  statues  in  the  Hall.  Many  of  the 
most  famous  pictures  of  the  world,  familiar  by  countless 
ettffravings,  are  in  this  great  collection.  It  is  profitable 
to  buy  the  catalogues  (28). 

Whitehall  leads  S.  to  'Whitehall  Palace,  where 
Henry  VIII.  met  Anne  Boleyn,  and  where  he  died ; 
where  Holbein  dwelt ;  whence  Elizabeth  was  remored 
to  prison,  and  Charles  I.  to  execution ;  where  Milton 
and  Cromwell  dwelt,  and  the  latter  died ;  where  Charles 
II.  held  court.  The  site  was  occupied  by  the  paJace  of 
Hubert  de  Burgh  (13th  century),  a  Dommican  con- 
vent, and  the  palace  of  Cardinal  Wolsey.  The  great 
Falladlan  Banqnetina  Hall  only  remains,  designs  by 
Iiiigo  Jones,  painted  by  Rubens,  and  now  used  as  a 
royal  chapel  (service  on  Sun.  at  11  and  3).  In  a 
house  near  by,  Sir  Robert  Feel  died.  In  this  vicinity 
is  Bootland  Tard,  famous  in  police  annals ;  once  the* 
property  of  the  Scottish  kings,  and  later  the  home  of 
Wren,  Milton,  Inigo  Jones.      Also  Montague  Hom» 


142  THE  HOUSES  OF  PARLIAMENT. 

tlie  palace  of  the  Doke  of  Baccleuch.  In  Whitehall 
Yard  is  the  United  Service  Miiseum,  crowded  with  tro- 
phies of  the  wars  of  Britain  on  all  seas  and  shores^ 
relics  of  Cromwell,  Nelson,  Wolfe,  Drake,  PrankHn, 
Wellington,  Napoleon,  etc.  The  Hone-Guards^ 
headquarters  of  the  army,  is  opposite  Whitehall.  See 
mounted  Life-Guards  sentries,  10-4  daily.  The  Treas- 
ury comes  next  S.  The  new  Public  OfiGLcea,  built 
in  1868-73  by  Sir  G.  G.  Scott  (cost,  *2,500,000),  a 
splendid  pile  of  Italian  buildiiu^,  contain  the  Home, 
Foreign,  Colonial,  and  India  Omces. 

The  Houses  of  Parliament  form  an  immense 
Tudor  Gothic  pile,  of  Yorkshire  magnesian  limestone 
(already  crumbling),  covering  8  acres,  with  11  courts 
and  1,100  rooms,  and  erected,  1840-59,  at  a  cost  of 
$15,000,000  (open  Sat.,  10-41  The  facade  along  the^ 
Thames  (940  it.  long)  is  adorned  with  statues  and 
(shields  of  all  the  sovereigns  of  England.  The  splendid 
Victoria  Tower  is  340  ft.  high  and  75  ft.  square ;  tiie 
Middle  Tower  is  300  ft.  hi^h ;  and  the  Clock  Tower ^ 
318  ft.  high,  has  a  huge  clock  (dials  23  ft.  across),  and 
Bw  Beti^  a  bell  weighing  13  tons.  The  oldest  part  is 
Westmijuter  Hall,  built  by  William  Eufus  in  1097,  and 
covered  with  the  present  wonderful  roof  of  Irish  oak 
hjr  Richard  II.  a  splendid  hall,  270  ft.  long  and  92  ft. 
high,  formerly  the  seat  of  England's  most  august  tri* 
hunals.  Here  Wallace,  Strafford,  Guy  Fawkes,  More,. 
Wyatt,  Lords  Essex,  Cobham,  and  Arundel,  the  Dukes 
of  Somerset,  Buckingham,  and  Norfolk,  the  Scottish 
nobles  who  £avored  the  Stuarts,  and  Kmg  Churles  I. 
were  condemned  to  death.  Here  Warren  Hastings 
was  tried,  and  also  the  Seven  Bishops.  Here  Edwani 
III.  leoeived  the  crative  kings,  David  of  Scotland  and 
John- of  France.  Here  Cromwell  was  installed  Lord 
'^tpctor.    Here  the  coronation-banquets  have  been 


ENGLAND.  143 

held  for  800  years.  A  stairway  descends  to  the  crvpt 
or  Ck.  of  St.  Mary  Undercroft y  built  by  King  St^nen, 
and  lately  made  resplendent  as  a  chapel.  8t,  Stephen* s 
Cloisters,  E.  of  the  hall,  were  built  by  Henry  VIII. 
Ascendine  from  the  hall,  enter  St.  Stephen's  Hall,  with 
statues  oi  12  English  statesmen  and  12  ancient  mon- 
Archs ;  and  the  Central  Hall,  a  lofty  octagon,  with 
statues.  The  corridors  have  large  frescos  of  scenes 
from  English  history.  The  House  of  Cojfimons,  63  X 
45  ft.,  is  panelled  with  oak,  and  has  12  stained  win- 
dows. Tie  House  of  Peers,  97  X  45  ft.,  is  a  superb 
Gothic  room,  with  12  stained  wmdows,  statues  or  the 
JVIagna-Charta  barons,  6  splendid  historical  frescos, 
the  Lord  Chancellor's  woolsack  and  the  thrones  of  the 
Queen  and  the  Prince  of  Wales.  See  the  Prince's 
Chamber,  Upper  Waiting-Hall,  Peers'  Robing-Room, 
superb  Victoria  Gallery,  and  Queen's  Robing-Room 
(richly  frescoed).  In  Old  Palace  Yard  is  a  statue  of 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  Near  by  Chaucer  and  Ben 
Jonson  died.  The  old  Parliament  House,  erected 
on  the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  and 
Plantagenet  kings,  and  burned  in  18S4,  contained 
the  Star  Chamber,  and  was  the  birthplace  of 
Edward  I.,  and  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Edward 
the  Confessor.  Here  resounded  the  eloquence  of 
Pitt,  Fox,  Chatham,  Burke,  Canning,  and  Grattan. 
Westminster  Bridge,  built  1856-62,  at  a  cost  of 
^1,250,000,  commands  a  fine  view  of  Parliament  House. 
St.  Margaret's  Ch.  replaced  a  ch.  built  in  1064  by- 
Edward  the  Confessor,  and  has  a  magnificent  old  E. 
window  (The  Crucifixion)  and  many  quaint  tombs,  in- 
djoding  those  of  poet-laureate  Skelton,  Milton's  wife, 
Cromwell's  mother,  Wm.  Caxton,  Lady  Dudley,  Har- 
rington  (author  gf  Oceana)^  Sir  Wm  Waller,  and  Sir 


144  WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 

Walter  Raleigh  (who  is  buried  under  the  altar^. 
lilanyfine  memorials  stand  in  this  vicinitj ;  also  Mil- 
ton's bouse,  latterly  occupied  by  Hazlitt,  and  fre- 
quented by  Lamb  and  Haydon;  Jeremy  Bentliam's 
house;  the  quaint  old  Gray  Coat  School;  and  the 
pretty  houses  of  Queen  Anne's  Gate. 

WeatminBter  Abbey  was  founded  (on  the  site  of 
a  temple  to  Apollo)  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  King  Sebert 
in  616,  for  Benedictines ;  destroyed  by  Danes ;  and  re- 
built by  Edgar  (985),  Edward  the  Confessor  (1049), 
Henry  III.,  and  Edward  I.  Henry  VIII.  drove  out 
the  monks,  Queen  Mary  restored  them,  and  Eliza- 
beth scattered  them  forever.  All  the  sovereigns  of 
England  since  Harold  have  been  crowned  here.  It  is 
513  X  75  ft.  in  area,  and  102  ft.  high,  with  W.  towers 
225  ft.  high.  It  is  a  splendid  Early-En^ish  building, 
immense,  harmonious,  solemn,  and  richly  colored. 
(Enter  near  St.  Margaret's ;  open,  except  Sun.,  9  a.m. 
till  dark.  Services  at  7.45, 11,  and  3  daily.  Entrance 
to  chapels,  6d.;  Mon.,  free.)  It  is  world-renowned  as 
England*s  Temple  of  Fame,  crowded  with  monuments 
of  kings,  heroes,  and  scholars.  In  the  N.  Tramept  are 
the  monuments  of  Admirals  Warren,  Vernon,  Wager, 
Lord  Chatham,  Canning,  Castlereagh,  Peel,  Mansfield, 
two  Dukes  of  Newcastie,  Warren  Hastings,  Cobden, 
Bailer^  and  many  famous  lords.  In  the  abbey 
are  monuments  to  Wilberforce,  Stamford  Raffles,  Fowell 
Buxton,  Isaac  Newton,  Charles  Lyell,  Fox,  Holland, 
Pitt,  Wordsworth,  Keble,  Conffreve,  Buckland,  Outram, 
Major  Andr^,  Dr.  Watts,  Jonn  Wesley,  Gen.  Paoli, 
Kneller,  Livingstone,  Stephenson,  etc.  The  Foists 
Comer  contains  inscriptions  to  Goldsmith,  Gay, 
Handel,  Thomson,  Southey,  Shakespeare,  Camp' 
^^,  Sheridan,  Camden,  Dickens,  Grote,  Macaalay, 

irlwall,  Addison,  Thackeray,  Casaubon,  Barrow, 


ENGLAND.  It5 

Garrick,  Prior,  Gray,  Milton,  Spenser,  Butler,  Jonson, 
Dra/tou,  Chaucer,  Cowley,  Dryden,  South.  —  See  chap- 
els of  SL  Benedicty  St.  Edmond  (Lord  Lytton's  tomb), 
St.  Nicholas.  The  Chapel  of  Henry  VII.,  built  1502-20, 
the  loveliest  in  England,  has  nave,  aisles,  and  5  chapels, 
with  1,000  statues,  exquisite  carved-oak  choir-stalls  on 
each  side  (with  the  swords  and  banners  of  the  Knights 
of  the  Bath),  and  a  magnificent  stone  roof  of  fanwork 
tracery.  See  tombs  of  Henry  VII.,  James  L,  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots,  Charles  II.,  WilUam  and  Mary,  George 
of  Denmark,  Edward  VI.,  Queen  Anne,  George  IL, 
the  Duke  of  Moutpensier,  Dean  Stanley,  Queen  Eliza- 
beth, Edward  V.,  etc.  •The  Chapel  of  St.  Edward  the 
Confessor  has  tombs  of  Henry.  V.,  Katherine  of  Valois, 
Henry  III.,  Queen  Eleanor,  Richard  IL,  Philippa  of 
Hainault,  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  Edward  I. ;  also, 
the  Scottish  and  English  Coronation  Chairs,  and  tlie- 
«word  and  shield  of  Edward  III.  The  Chapels  of  St. 
John,  St.  Erasmus,  and  the  Abbot  Islip  contain  ancient 
tombs,  near  which  are  those  of  Aymer  de  Valence  and 
Gen.  Wolfe.  The  Chapels  of  Sta.  John^  Andrew,  an(t 
Michael  liave  monuments  to  Humphry  Davy,  Dr. 
Young,  Mrs.  Siddons,  etc.  The  Chapter-House,  built 
1250,  and  occupied  by  the  House  of  Commons,  1282- 
1547,  adjoins  the  Poets'  Corner,  and  is  near  the  Chapel 
of  the  Fyx,  St,  Blaise's  Chapel,  and  the  stairs  to  the 
Triforium.  Near  by  are  the  beautiful  Cloisters.  The- 
world -renowned  Jerusalem  Chamber  was  built  1376-86.  v 
Here  Henry  IV.  died ;  and  here  tlie  recent  revision  of 
the  Bible  was  carried  out.  "Westminster  Schoolt 
founded  by  Queen  Ehzabeth  (1560),  is  entered  near  the- 
cdumn  to  the  W.  Wren,  Gibbou,  Cowley,  Cowper, 
Churchill,  Jonson,  Di7den,  Prior,  Locke,  Southey^ 
Hakluyt,  and  Warren  Hastings  were  educated  here. 


146  ENGLANB. 

St.  Thomases  EbspUcU  is  a  line  of  baildings 
^  M.  long  (cost  $2,500,000),  opposite  Parliament 
Honse.  Beyond,  and  also  on  the  Thames,  is  Iiain- 
beth  Palace^  for  700  years  the  London  honse  of 
the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury,  very  beantifnl  and 
interesting.  Enter  by  Cardinal  Moreton's  lofty  em- 
battled gateway.  The  JIM  has  a  fine  timber-roof, 
and  contains  a  library  of  30,000  vols,  (open  daily, 
10-3).  The  &iuird  Chamber  has  portraits  of  many 
archbishops.  The  Chapel,  in  which  these  prelates 
Are  consecrated,  dates  from  1244-70.  In  the  Lol- 
lards' Tower  Lollards  were  imprisoned  and  tor- 
tured. In  the  inner  court  is  the  new  Tudor  palace 
of  the  archbishops.  The  gardens  of  Lambeth  are 
beautiful,  i  M.  E.  is  Bethlehem  Hospital  for  the  In- 
sane (Bedlam);  and  a  little  beyond  are  8t.  George's 
Cathedral  (Roman)  and  Spurgeon's  Tabernacle. 

Pall  Mall  is  a  splendid  st.,  nearly  \  M.  long,  run- 
ning W.  from  Trafalgar-Square,  and  lined  with  club 
houses,  which  are  also  found  in  St.  JamesSt. 
Among  these  are  the  University,  United  Service, 
AthenaBum,Travellers',  Reform, Carlton,  Army  and 
:Navy,  Guards,  and  Marlborough.  Pall  Mall  cross- 
es Waterloo  Place,  in  which  are  the  Crimean, Frank- 
lin, Burgoyne,  and  Colin-Campbell  monuments, 
and  the  York  column  (124  ft.  high;  6d.  for  ascent). 
In  Pall  Mall  is  Marlborough  House,  built  by  Wren, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Prince  of  Wales;  near  by 
St .  James'S'Sq,,  with  palaces  and  club-houses.  St. 
James's  Palace  is  a  brick  building,  designed  by 
Holbein  and  built  by  Henry  VIII.,  the  home  of  En- 
gland's kings  from  1691  to  1809.  Victoria  was 
married  in  its  chapel,  and  levees  are  held  in  its 
state-chambers.  Guard-mounting  and  fine  militi^ 
music  daily,  at  11.45.  Clarence  Hotise  is  the  home 
of  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh.     Stafford  House 


ST.  JAMES'S  PARK.  147 

(Duke  of  Sntberland)  contains  hundreds  of  paint- 
ings. Bridgewater  House  (Lord  EUesmere)  has 
art-coUectionA,  inclnding  several  Raphaels.  St. 
James's  Park,  8.  of  the  Palace,  was  created  by 
Henry  VIII.  and  Oharles  II.,  and  has  a  lake  in  its 
centre,  the  Birdcage  Walk  and  Wellington  Bar- 
racks on  the  S.,  the  Mall  on  the  N.,  and  on  the 
W.,  near  the  Turkish  cannon  and  Marshal  Soult^s 
mortar,  the  Foot  Guards  parade  at  10  a.  m. 
daily.  At  the  W.  end  is  Buokingham  P&laoe, 
bought  in  1761  by  George  III.  of  the  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham, now  the  town-residence  of  the  Queen.  It 
is  a  quadrangle,  with  Throne  Room,  Grand  Saloon, 
and  other  halls,  and  a  Picture  Gallery,  containing 
hundreds  of  old  paintings.  In  the  rear  are  large 
gardens. 

Begent-St.y  containing  the  finest  shops  in  Lon- 
don, and  many  hotels  and  clube;,  is  1  M.  long,  and 
leads  from  Pall  Mall  to  Oxf ord-St. 

FiooadiUy )  a  Paris-like  street,  runs  from  Ilay- 
xnarket  to  Hyde  Park  (1  M).,  by  the  interesting 
Geological  Musernn  (open  daily,  10-6) ;  8t,  James's 
Ch,^  built  by  Wren;  the  houses  of  the  Royal,  Geo- 
logical, Antiquarian,  Astronomical,  and  Chemical 
Societies;  the  B/oyal  Academy  of  Arts  (many  rare 
paintings);  London  University,  with  statues;  Dev- 
onshire House,  famous  in  art;  and  other  palaces 
of  the  nobility.  Green  Park  bounds  one  side  of 
Piccadilly.  In  The  Albany  dwelt  Byron,  Bulwer, 
Monk  Lewis,  and  Macaulay. 

Oxford-St.  li  M.  from  Holbom  to  Hyde  Park, 
passes  Bloomsbury,  Russell,  Gayendish,  Hanover 
and  Bedford  Sqs.,  with  their  displays  of  statuary, 
and  crosses  Regent-St.  and  New  Bond-St.,  famous 
for  fine  shops.  The  British  Museum  (open  daily, 
free,  from  10  a.  m.  till  dusk)  is  near  New  Oxford- 


148  ENGLAND. 

St,  and  contains  one  of  the  grandest  collections  in 
the  world.  Here  are  the  Elgin  Marbles,  from  the 
Athenian  Parthenon;  hundreds  of  Greek  and 
Roman  sculptures,  and  statuary;  reliefs  from  Baby- 
lon, Nineveh,  and  Nimroud;  6  rooms  full  of  Egyp- 
tian antiquities,  MSB.,  jewels,  statues,  etc.;  hun- 
dreds of  Greek,  Etruscan,  and  Roman  bronzes; 
antiquities  of  the  flint,  Celtic,  Roman,  Saxon,  and 
mediaeval  ages  in  England;  and  vast  collections  in 
zoology.  The  Reading  Room  is  a  circular  hall  in 
the  centre  of  the  quadrangle,  .with  a  dome  of  glass 
and  iron;  the  Library  contains  1,000,000  books. 
A  little  way  K.  E.  is  the  Foundling  Hospital^ 
with  pictures  by  Reynolds,  Hogarth,  etc.  Services 
in  chapel,  at  11  and  3  on  Sundays. 

Begent's  Park  (472  acres),  a  bit  of  open  coun- 
try in  a  densely  populated  region,  is  U  M.  N.  W. 
of  Trafalgar  Sq.,  and  contains  the  famous  Zoologi- 
cal  Gardens^  with  numbers  of  birds  and  beasts, 
(open  daily,  9  a.  m.  till  dark,  Is.;  Mon.,  6d.  Bestf 
time  to  visit,  3-4).  Here  are  the  Botanical  Qar- 
dem.  Primrose  HiU  lies  N. ;  and  Lord's  Cricket 
Ground  is  W.  2-3  M.  W.  is  Kensal-Green  Cemetery^ 
where  are  buried  Thackeray,  Leigh  Hunt,  Sidney 
Smith,  Allan  Cunningham,  Buckle,  Eastlake,  Mul- 
ready,  Mathews  the  actor,  Leech  the  cartoonist, 
Gibson  the  sculptor,  Cardinal  Wiseman,  etc. 

Hyde  Park  (390  acres)  was  laid  out  by  Henry 
VIII.  At  the  N.  E.  gate  is  the  Marble  Arch;  at  the 
S.E.,  Hyde  Park  Corner,  is  another  portal,  opposite 
which  stands  a  tall  arch,  which  formerly  bore  a 
statue  of  Wellington.  Rotten  Row  runs  thence 
to  Kensington  Gate  (li  M.),  and  is  a  riding-course. 
Th£  Drive,   alongside,  is  filled  with   equipages. 

he  Serpentine  is  an  artificial  pond,  with  pleasure- 

ats.   Remarkable  lawns  and  trees  are  seen  on  all 


ENGLAND.  14J» 

sides.  Kensington  Gardens  adjoin  Hyde  Park  on  the 
W.,  and  leail  to  Kensington  Palace,  a  grim 
brick  structure,  built  by  William  III.,  and  tbe  birth- 
place of  Queen  Victoria.  William  and  Mai*y,  Queen 
Anne  and  her  consort,  and  George  II.  died  here. 
Farther  W.  is  Holland  House,  a  Tudor  palace  built  in 
1607,  and  frequented  by  Cromwell  and  Fairfax,  Wm. 
Penn,  Addison,  William  and  Mary,  Moore,  Rogers,  and 
Macaulay.  S.  of  the  Gardens  stands  the  Jl&erl  Memo- 
rial,  a  superb  Gothic  monument,  175  ft.  high,  covered 
"with  statues,  and  composed  of  a  Gothic  canopy,  under 
which  is  a  colossal  statue  of  Albert.  Across  the  road 
is  the  vast  oval  amphitheatre  of  the  Ro^ul  Albert  Half 
(which  cost  $1,000,000),  overarclied  with  glass,  hold- 
ing 8,000  people,  and  provided  with  an  organ  of  8,000 
pipes.  The  Natural  History  Museum  faces  Crom- 
well-Road. 

The  South  Kensington  Museum  (free,  Mon.^ 
Tues.,  and  Sat.,  10-10;  6d.,  Wed.,  Tliurs.,  Fri.,  10 
A.M.  till  dark ;  restaurant  and  lavatories  in  building)  is 
one  of  the  richest  in  the  world  Q  hr.  from  Charing 
Cross  by  rly.).  It  was  founded  in  1857,  and  has  re- 
ceived many  generous  bequests,  besides  $5,000,000 
from  Government.  The  first  court  is  crowded  with 
architectural  rarities,  original  or  in  casts.  Tlie  S.  Court 
is  surrounded  with  mosaic  portraits  of  the  33  most 
famous  artists,  and  Sir  F.  Leiffhton's  famous  frescos, 
and  contains  many  exquisite  objects  of  art.  The  N. 
Court  is  devoted  to  Italian-Renaissance  sculptures^ 
altars,  tabernacles,  etc.,  and  costly  tapestries,  terra- 
cotta  work,  fans,  laces,  ancj  ancient  musical  instru- 
ments. 'The  Cloisters  contain  ancient  and  Oriental 
furniture,  Persian  tiles,  carpets,  and  metal-work  The 
National  Gallery  of  British  Art  is  exceedingly  interest- 


150  CHELSEA.  —  ON  THE  THAMES. 

ing,  and  has  the  famous  Cartoons  of  Raphael,  many 
iiundreds  of  choice  paintings  by  Turner,  Reynolds, 
Landseer,  Leslie,  Wilkie,  etc.;  water-colors  in  great 
Tariety ;  and  the  Forster  collection  of  autographs  and 
MSS.  ThePrince  Consort  Gallery  contains  mediaeval 
works  of  art  in  gold,  brass,  and  steel,  silver-gilt,  enamel, 
and  ivory.  The  Keramic  Gallery  has  Palissy,  Majolica, 
■Spanish,  Wedgwood,  Dresden,  Sevres,  and  other  wares, 
in  great  variety.  The  Patent-Office  Museum  adjoins  this 
l)unding. 

Between  Hyde  Park  and  the  Thames  are  Belgravia 
and  Chelsea,  the  former  containing  many  fine  streets, 
inhabited  by  rich  families,  and  the  latter  being  noted 
jnaihly  for  its  Hospital  for  old  soldiers,  built  by  Wren. 

"Down  the  Thsunes. —  Many  dingy  little  steamers 
ply  on  the  Thames,  touching  every  10  min.  at  West- 
anmster,  Charing  Cross,  Blackfriars,  St.  Paul's,  etc. 
^fares,  l~2d.).  Their  focal  point  is  London  Bridge, 
whence  larger  boats  depart  for  Greenwich  (3-4!d.), 
Woolwich,  and  the  sea.  You  pass  the  Tower,  St. 
C/atheriae's  Docks,  London  Docks,  the  Isle  of  Dogs, 
the  Surrey,  Commercial,  and  W.  India  Docks.  Below 
'Greenwich  the  river  is  dull.    The  journey 

Up  the  Thames  gives  tine  view  of  St.  Paul's  on  the 
r.;  and  farther  up,  opposite  Blackfriars,  the 
Times  newspaper  offices.  Thence  to  Waterloo  Bridge, 
you  have  the  Embankment  on  the  r.  Above  this  is  tne 
AdelpH  Terrace;  the  Obelisk y  on  the  r.;  and  passing  the 
t)ridge8  to  Charing-Cross  stat.  and  Whitehall  Stairs, 
Tou  come  to  Westminster  Bridge,  On  the  1.  are  St. 
Thomas's  Hospital  and  Lambeth  Palace;  on  the  r.,  the 
Houses  of  Parliament  and  Westminster  Abbey*  Gei 
Dickens's  Dictionary  of  the  Thames  (Is.) 


ENGLAND.  151 


Exoursions  in  Southern  England. 

Windsor  (Caslle  Inn;  White  Hart),  22  M.  from 
London,  may  be  reached  by  G.  W.  or  S.  W.  Rail- 
way (return-fares,  5s.  6d.,  4s.  3d.)  the  superb  state 
apartments  are  open,  Men.,  Tues.,  Tburs.,  and  Fri.,  on 
presentation  of  tickets.  When  the  Queen  is  at  liome^ 
which  is  rare  in  sammer,  they  are  not  sbown.  (Buy 
Companion  thrdUgh  the  State  Apartments,  Id.)  The  cas-^ 
tie  stands  on  the  apex  of  a  hill,  and  may  be  seen  from 
afar.  Here  WiDiam  the  Conqueror  bnilt  a  residence* 
JSdward  III.  was  bom  in  Windsor ;  and  Geoffrey  Chaucer^ 
the  poet,  once  hved  here.  The  state  apartments  are 
at  the  N.  side.  Grand  entrance  of  the  eastle,  George- 
IV's  Gateway,  in  the  S.  front,  opposite  the  Zo«^ 
Walk,  a  fine  vista  of  elms,  3  M.  long.  Visitors'  en- 
trance, Henry  VIIL's  gateway.  From  the  Round 
Tower  (open  11-4)  12  counties  may  be  seen.  See 
Waterloo  Hall,  fine  Van  Dycks  and  Rubenses ;  Chape f 
Royal  St.  Georges  (open  12-4,  free),  one  of  the  finest 
Gothic  edifices  in  Europe  (bnilt  in  1474),  with  choir 
hnng  round  with  the  banners,  helmets,  and  insignia 
of  the  Knights  of  the  Garter;  Albert  (^pel,  formerly 
Wolee^s  Chapel,  built  by  Henry  VII.  and  reopened  in 
1875,  superb  mosaics,  reredos,  and  cenotaph  (open 
Wed.,  Thurs.,  Fri.,  and  Sat).  Fine  view  from  the 
Castle  Terrace,  Pleasant  dnve  (7  M.)  to  Virginia 
Wlatar  (Wheatsheaf  Hotel).  There  are  1,800  acres 
in  the  Great  Park,  Eton  College  is  \  M.  from 
Windsor.  The  stone  chapel,  176  ft.  long,  is  very 
handsome.  Bronze  statue  of  Henry  VI.  See  the 
fine  library  and  MSS.  There  are  1,000  students  here. 
The  college  ^as  founded  in  1440.  Stoke  Pogifl» 
the  scene  of  Gray's  Elegy,  and  the  burial-place  of  the 


152         HAMPTON  COURT.  —  RICHMOND. 

poet,  is  near  Windsor.  Fine  monument  to  Graj  in 
Stoke  Park. 

Hampton  Court  {Kings  Arms;  Mitre;  Grey* 
kound),  rly.  in  |  hr.  (13  M.),  or  Thames  (24  M.),  has 
an  old  palace  covering  8  acres.  It  was  founded  b j 
Cardinal  Wolsej,  then  at  the  height  of  his  ambition,  and 
presented  to  Henry  VIII.,  who  coveted  it.  Here  also 
was  a  favorite  residence  of  both  Charles  I.  and  Crom- 
well. It  is  now  the  home  of  pensioners  of  the  Crown. 
(State-apartments  open  daily,  except  Fri.,  10*6,  March 
— Oct. ;  on  Sun. ,  2-6. )  Bee  the  Presence  Chamber. 
Galleries  of  nearly  1,000  paintings,  and  the  great 
Gothic  Hall,  hung  with  tapestries,  and  covered  with  a 
timber  roof.  Purchase  the  Stranger's  Guid^  (6d.), 
which  gives  full  accounts. 

Kew  Ro3ral  Botanical  Oardans  (South  Western 
Rly. ;  fares,  Is.  9d.,  Is.  4d.,  Is.  2d. ;  time,  ^  hr.) 
contain  the  plants  and  flowers  of  all  countries.  (Buy 
hand-book,  6d.)    3  M.  from  Kew  is 

Richmond  (Star  and  Garter,  famous  for  cuisine, 
wines,  and  high  bills),  where  £dward  I.  founded  a 
palace,  and  Queen  Elizabeth  died.  Fine  view  from 
Biehnumd  Hill.  The  Park  (2,255  acres)  belongs  to  the 
Crown  and  is  open  to  the  public.  James  Tliomson  and 
Edmund  Kean  are  buried  in  the  ch.  The  Prince  of 
Wales  sometimes  lives  at  the  WkUe  Lodge.  Park 
stocked  with  nearly  2,000  deer.  The  foot-paths  on 
either  shore  afford  exquisite  views.  At  Twickenbam 
see  Orleans  Housey  the  former  residence  of  Louis  Phi- 
lippe ;  ch.  in  which  Pope  is  buried ;  and  Strawberry 
Hill,  Horace  Walpole's  villa. 

The  Crystal  Palace,  on  high  ground  at  Sydenham, 
was  erected  1853-4,  at  a  cost  of  $7,500,000.  Do  not 
(ail  to  see  it.  Return  fares,  including  admission  (every 
day  except  Sat.,  when  admission  is  2s.  6d.),  3s.,  2s.  Sd.^ 


ENGLAND.  153 

Is.  9d.  You  can  go  from  London  Bridge,  Victoria, 
Kensington,  Holbom,  or  Ludgate  Hill  stats.  The 
Aquarium,  the  Aviary,  the  wonderful  Architectural 
Courts,  the  Picture  Gallery,  are  worth  inspection.  Gar- 
dens very  fine ;  fireworks  on  summer  evenings.  Good 
restaurants  attached.  (Guide-books^  Id.,  3d.,  Is.)  The 
central  hall  is  1,608  ft.  long,  crossed  by  transepts. 

Th6  Alexandra  Palace  (opened  1875),  is  6  M. 
N.  of  London ;  i^  hr.  from  Kings  Cross.  Admission, 
Is.  It  is  rectangular,  with  corner  towers,  covers  7^ 
acres ;  and  the  grounds  cover  480  acres.  See  music 
hall  (seating  12,000),  with  large  organ. 

Rly.  from  Alexandra  to  Hi£;ligate  (2  M.),  in  whose 
picturesque  cemetery  lie  Faraday,  S.  T.  Coleridge, 
Lord  Lyndhurst,  and  George  Eliot.  It  is  an  easy  walk 
to  Hampetead  Heath,  240  acres  of  breezy  highland 
park,  once  famous  for  its  highwaymen,  and  now  visited 
for  its  beautiful  views  of  London.  In  Hampstead  Ch., 
Sir  James  Mackintosh,  Joanna  Baillie,  and  Constable, 
the  painter,  are  buried. 

Dulwlch,  -J  hr.  by  rly.  from  Victoria  stat.  (open 
daily,  10-4),  has  paintings  purchased  for  King  Stan- 
islaus of  Poland,  out  given  to  Grod*s  Gift  College. 
Works  of  Murillo,  Teniers,  Rembrandt,  Cuyp,  Kubens, 
Van  Dyck,  Velazquez,  and  Titian.  Portrait  of  Mrs. 
Siddons,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds. 

Oreenwioh  Hospital  (6  M.  from  Charing  Cross ; 
fares.  Is.,  9d.,  6d. ;  time,  i  hr.  Or  by  steamer  in  1  hr. 
from  London  Bridge;  fares,  6d.,  4d.),  for  old  and  dis- 
abled seamen  of  the  Royal  Navy,  on  site  of  palace 
where  Henry  VIII.  was  bom,  where  he  married  Anne 
Boleyn,  and  where  Edward  VI.  died.  Hospital  open, 
free,"Tues.  and  Fri. ;  on  other  days,  4d.  Tne  Painted 
Hull  and  tlie  Chapel  open  daily,  10-7  in  summer.  See 
also  Dining  Hall,  Museum,  and  Royal  Naval  School. 


154  ST.  ALBANS.  —  PUTNEY.  —  MARGATE. 

Qreenwich  Park  (174  acres)  contains  some  fine  old 
elms,  planted  in  the  time  of  Charles  11.  On  a  little 
hill  stands  the  Moifal  Observatory,  built  in  1675. 

Harrow*oa-the-HiU  is  11^  M.  (^  hr.)  from  Lon- 
don. Harrow  Ch.  stands  on  an  isolated  hill,  whence 
grand  panorama.  Harrow  is  the  location  of  the  second 
leading  public  school  in  the  kingdom  (founded  1571). 
In  the  old  schoolroom  the  names  of  Byron*  Robert 
Peel,  Sheridan,  Palmerston,  and  others  are  carved  on 
the  panels.     See  the  Chapel  and  the  School  Library. 

St.  Albans,  %\  M.  out  (^1  hr.),  has  a  noble  Nor- 
man  Abbey  Ch,,  founded  by  Offa  II.,  King  of  Mercia,  in 
795 ;  rebuilt  1077-88,  and  made  a  cathedral  in  1877.  It 
is  425  ft.  long,  and  has  a  massive  tower  (whence  fine 
view) ;  the  shrine  of  St.  Alban,  the  protomartyr  of 
England  (a.d.  324);  and  quaint  old  chantries  and 
stained  windows.  2  battles  occurred  here  in  the  Wars 
of  the  Roses.  In  St,  MiehaeVs  Ch,  Bacon  is  bur- 
iecT.    See  Roman  walls.  Gatehouse^  and  Clock  Tower. 

Putney  (Slar  and  Garter)  is  quickly  reached  by 
steamboat  or  by  rly.  Gibbon  was  born,  and  Pitt  died, 
here.  At  Chiswick  Fox  and  Canning  died,  and  Ho« 
garth  is  buried.  Opposite  Putney  is  Folham,  with  a 
fine  old  palace  and  park  of  the  Bishops  of  London. 
Lovely  river-scenery  m  this  region.  To  tiie  S.  is  Wim-' 
bledon,  with  famous  rifle-ranges.  Norwich,  126^  M. 
from  London  (fares,  21s.,  IGs.,  10s.  IQd.)  has  many 
quauit  old  buildings  and  chs.,  a  lofty  castle,  and  a 
splendid  Norman  cathedral  (founded  m  1096).  Col* 
Chester  and  Ipswich,  with  their  fine  relics  of  medieeval* 
ism,  may  be  visited  on  the  way  to  Harwich. 

Margate  (Cliflottville  Hotel ;  White  Hart;  York), 
72 IL  fi-om  London,  is  thronged  with  visitora  in  sum« 
mer.  Pier  900  ft.  long.  Principal  chs. :  St.  John's. 
"Snity,  St.  Paul's.    Ramagate,  4^  M.  S.,  is  rather 


ENGLAND.  155 

more  aristocratic.  Season  from  June  to  Nov.  Bathing 
good.  Fine  pier,  commenced  in  1750.  Eastbourne 
(Burlington  Hotel;  Anchor;  Albion),  65  M.  from  Lon- 
don (express,  16s.,  13s.,  9s.  6d.,  6s),  is  a  favorite 
watering-place.     Grand  Parade  faces  the  sea. 

HaBtings  (Queen's  Hotel,  very  large ;  Album;  Royal 
Marine)  is  76  M.  from  London  (return-fares,  258.,  20s.). 
**  St  Leonard's-on-Sea,"  the  Belgraviaof  Hastings (ii(> 
exandra  Hotel;  Royal  Victoria;  JPaUice),  is  the  prettiest 
watering-place  in  Sussex.  Fine  beach,  and  a -pleasant 
esplanade,  with  splendid  line  of  houses  fronting  the  sea 
for  2  M.  Castle  may  be  visited.  Good  view  of  the 
old  town  from  the  Sea  Cliff i  or  the  Tier  (900  fk.  long). 
Pavilion,  first-class  baths,  aquarium,  reading-rooms, 
here.  Excursions  should  be  made  to  Battle  Abbey^ 
8  M. ;  Bexbill,  5  M. ;  Catsfield,  3  M.  At  Battle  {RaiU 
way  Hotel;  (r<?or^tf),  battle  of  Hastings  was  fought.  The  * 
grand  ruins  of  Battle  Abbey  are  open  Tues.,  12-4. 

Brighton.  —  It  is  pleasant  to  go  by  a  4-horse  coach 
(tri- weekly,  in  6  hrs.,  15s^  from  the  White  Horse  CeU 
lar,  in  Piccadilly,  to  the  Old  Ship  Hotel,  in  Brighton. 
Rly.,  li  hr. ;  return-fares,  17s.  6d.,  12s.  6d.  Principal 
hotels  on  the  sea-front:  Grand,  Bedford,  Norfolk,  Eoyal 
York,  Albion,  Old  Ship,  Markwell's,  Queen's,  Albemarle^ 
Bristol.  Many  boardiu^-houses.  Brighton  is  London 
by  the  sea.  The  attraction  is  the  fine  sea-front  of  3  M. 
long.  The  Brighton  Grand  Aquarium  is  the  largest  in 
the  world.  On  the  E.  part  of  the  Promenade  is  the 
Chain  Pier,  1,136  ft.  long.  The  W.  Pier  is  opposite 
Regency- Square.  Music  on  the  piers.  The  Royal  Pa- 
vilion, begun  in  1784}  by  the  Prince  of  Wales,  is  now 
owned  by  the  town,  and  used  for  public  balls,  etc. 
Library  and  Picture  Gallery  here.  Near  are  the  Boutb 
00*^110,  55  M.  in  length,  with  a  breadth  of  ^  M. 
Tunbridge  Wella  (Calverly  Hotel;  Mt.  Ephraim),  is 


1 56  SOUTHAMPTON.  —  WINCHESTER. 

a  popular  inland  watering-place,  with  chalybeate  springs. 
Bayham  Abbey  ruins  near  bj.  A  pleasant  excursion 
may  be  made  along  the  South  Coast  from  Brighton 
to  Portsmoath  {George  Hotel ;  Star  and  Garter; 
Sussex),  very  important  naval  station.  See  the 
Dockyards  (open  10-13,  1-3).  Order  from  Admiralty 
obligatory  for  foreigners.  Off  the  Dockyard  lies  the 
Fictoryy  the  old  wooden  ship  in  which  Nelson  died. 
Southsea  {Queen^s  Hotel;  Roy  at)  is  a  fashionable 
watering-place  near  by.  See  the  Common,  the  Fier,  the 
Esplanade.  From  Portsmouth  passengers  may  embark 
for  the  Isle  of  Wight.  Portsmouth  is  72  M.  from 
Loudon  (fares,  15s.  6d.,  10s.  lOd.,  6s.  2d.). 

Southampton  {South  Western  Hotel;  Dolphin; 
Boyal),  an  important  steamship  station,  78f  M.  from 
London  (fares,  15s.  6d.,  lis.,  6s.  6d.).  Boats  for  the 
Channel  Islands,  Harwich,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  America, 
and  India.  In  Blae  Anchor  Lane  is  King  JohrCs  Pal- 
ace, one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  England.  Excursion 
ix^  \oYe\j  Hetley  Abbey,  3  M.  (open  Mon.,  Tues.,  Wed., 
Pri.,  and  Sat.).  You  may  next  go  to  Saliabnry 
iJFhite  Hart  Hotel ;  Red  Lion  ;  Three  Swans  ;  Angel), 
which  contains  a  noble  Cathedral,  among  the  very  first 
in  England.  It  was  founded  in  1220,  and  was  the 
first  great  English  church  iu  the  Pointed  Style.  Exqui- 
site spire,  the  highest  in  England  (4r04  ft.).  Cloisters^ 
Chapter-House,  and  Nave  very  noticeable.  Sculp- 
tures in  Chapter- House  from  Old  Testament  history. 
Statue  of  Sydney  Herbert  in  the  market-place.  See 
EUuihrn/ore  Museum.  Excursions  to  Stonehenge,  9  M. 
N.,  vast  rains  of  a  Druidic  sanctuary;  Wilton  House, 
<8  M.),  with  fine  paintings ;  and  Longford  GasUe. 

Winoheater  {George  Hotel;  Royal;  Black  Swan^ 
is  one  of  the  great  historical  cities  of  England.  The 
Cathedral  (1079-114S),  560  ft.  long,  nave  265  ft.,  is 
the  principal  attraction.     Architecture   of  Nave  very 


ENGLAND.  157 

curious.  See  Mural  Monuments,  Font,  and  Chantry. 
In  the  Central  Ladf  Chapel  Queen  Mary  was  married 
to  Philip  of  Spain,  m  1554.  See  Castle,  and  make  ex- 
cursion to  Hospital  of  St.  Cross  ;  admission,  6d.  Fares 
to  London,  66^  M..  13s.  lOd.,  9s,  9d.,  5s.  6d. 

Tlie  iBle  of  VSTight  may  be  reached  from  South- 
amj)ton  by  steamers  to  Cowes  (in  }  hr.),  or  to  Ryde. 
Trains  run  between  Ryde  and  Ventnor,  with  branch  to 
Newport,  and  between  Ryde  and  Cowes.  The  Isle  is 
224  M.  long,  and  14  M.  broad.  Ventnor  and  the 
Under  Cliff  are  recommended  to  invalids.  In  summer 
secure  rooms  in  advance.  Ryde  (Eagleinn/ Esplanade; 
Pier)  has  a  fine  pier,  a  school  of  art,  and  a  museum. 
It  is  12  M.  to  Ventnor,  through  delightful  scenery. 
On  the  route  is  Sando^en  {Sandown  House ;  King's 
Head),  a  fashionable  resort.  Sands  and  bathing  good. 
Sbanklin  {BaisKs  Hotel;  Collier's)  is  a  picturesque 
village.  The  Chine,  near  by,  is  a  romantic  ravine. 
Bonchurch,  11  M.  from  Ryde,  is  very  beautiful ;  John 
Sterling  is  buried  here.  Ventnor  {EoyaX  MaHne; 
Queen's;  Esjf^nade;  Grab  and  Lobster)  is  much  fre- 
quented. Fares  from  London  to  Ventnor,  2l8.  2d., 
15s.  Id.,  lis.  Return  tickets  (good  for  8  days),  35s. 
9d.,  26s.  6d.,  19s.  9d.  Near  by  is  Norris  Castle,  where 
the  Queen  formerly  resided;  and  Osborne  House, 
where  she  now  and  then  lives.  Newport  is  1  M.  from 
Carisbrooke  Castle,  a  grand  historic  ruin. 

Bath  {Grand  Pump  Room  Hotel;  York  ;  White  Lion) 
has  the  inost  sumptuously  appointed  warm  baths  in 
Europe.  It  is  a  city  of  52,000  inhab.,  on  the  Avon,  and 
once  famous  as  the  home  of  Beau  Nash,  and  the  scene 
of  Miss  Austen's  novels.  See  the  stately  Abbey  Ch» 
(1499) ;  Beckford^s  Tower  and  tomb ;  the  Guildhall ; 
and  many  fine  residences  and  parks.  Excursions  to 
prior  Park,  Lansdoicn  Hill,  Hampton  Down,  and  the 
ruins  of  Hinton  Ahbe^i.    From  Bath  it  is  11 J  M.  t 


158  BRISTOL.  —  CARDIFF.  —  WELLS. 

Bxiatol  {Royal  Hotel;  Grand;  George),  the  capital  of 
the  W.  of  England,  and  a  very  ancient  city.  It  is  on 
the  Avon,  7  M.  from  the  sea.  f^ne  docks  at  the 
river's  mouth.  See  St.  Mary  Heddiffe  Ch.,  very 
lovely ;  the  Cathedral  (1140),  with  tombs  of  Bishop 
Butler  and  Jane  Porter,  fine  cloisters  and  chapter- 
house ;  CoUege  Gate;  the  Mayor's  Chapel  (1220);  Bris- 
tol  Museum;  Clifton,  a  beautiful  suburb;  the  Suspen- 
sion Chain  Bridge  (get  the  views);  NigMingale  Val- 
ley; and  Zoological  Gardens.  Excursions  to  Blaise 
Castle;  and  George  Muller's  Oi'phan  Asylum  (2050 
children)  at  Ashley  station. 

Prom  Bristol  you  may  cross  the  Bristol  Channel  to 
Cardiff  (Royal  Hotel;  Cardiff  Arms),  a  very  important 
Welsh  port.  See  Bute  Bocks;  the  Castle;  and  Sophia 
Park,  Excursions  to  Caerphilly  Castle;  Llandaff 
(with  erand  old  Cathedral);  Llanwit;  and  St.  Donates, 
From  Cardiff  you  can  make  an  excursion  through  S. 
Wales,  and  it  will  riclily  repay.  Fares  from  Cardiff 
to  London  (1701  M.),  35s.  6d.,  25s. ;  from  Bristol  to 
London  (118^  M.),  26s.  Id.,  18s.  3d. 

Devonshire  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of 
England.  Tourists  can  reach  Exeter  from  London  in 
4-5  hrs.  (distance,  171 J  M. ;  fares,  35s.,  25s.,  14s.  SJd.). 
Or  they  may  go  from  Bristol  to  Exeter  bv  "WeUa 
(Swan  Hotel;  Star;  Mitre),  which  is  a  perfect  eccle- 
siastical city,  with  a  moated  Bishop's  Palace,  an  em- 
battled Deanery,  and  a  quaint  Vicar's  Close,  The 
venerable  Cathedral  is  very  rich  in  sculptures^  and  in 
every  waj  impressive.  Superb  Chapter-House,  (See 
local  guides.)  Qlastonbury  (George  Hotel;  Red 
lAoiCi  has  a  rained  Abbey,  one  of  the  earliest  centres 
of  Christianity  in  England.  King  Arthur  was  buried 
here.  The  George  Inn  was  a  hostelry  for  pilgrims  in 
Edward  IV. 's  time.   This  is  the  ancient  Isle  of  Avalon. 

'  Williamson's  Guide,  Is.     See  St.  John's  and  St 


ENGLAND.  15ft 

Benedict's  Chs.  Exeter  (^Clarence  Hotel;  New  Lon* 
don;  Half^Moon)  has  grand  Caike^ral,  built  1107- 
1206,  with  interesting  chapels.  Minstrels'  Gallery,  choir, 
close,  and  far-viewing  tower;  the  (hstle,  Norman 
ruins ;  the  Elizabethan  OuUdhall ;  and  Albert  Museum. 
Plymouth  {Duke  of  Cornwall  Hotel;  Royal)  is  rich 
in  objects  of  interest.  See  the  Hoe,  St.  Andrew's  Ck., 
the  New  Guildhall,  Athemsum,  Raglan  Barracks,  the 
Deooufiort  Column.  The  Ztddyatone  Lighthouse  is 
14  M.  from  Plymouth ;  excursion  by  steamer.  Tor- 
quay {Imperial;  Royal;  Betgraw),  Is  a  famous  water- 
ing-place. See  the  Bay,  where  the  Prince  of  Orange 
landed  in  1688 ;  Tor  Abbey,  the  Ch.,  and  the  Museum, 
Beautiful  drives  and  walks.  Fares  to  London  (220  M.), 
40s.  2d.,  28s.  5d.,  168.  S^d.  Get  guides  of  Devon  Coast 
and  ComwaU.  Penaanoe  {Queen's  Hotel)  is  328  M. 
from  London  (fares,  63s.  6d.,  44s.  6d.,  26s.  6Jd.). 

Routes  to  the  Continent. 

Quickest  Routes.  —  Via  Dover  and  Calais :  22  li. 
across  Channel.  To  Paris,  283  M.  (fares,  £3,  £2  5s.). 
Day  service:  leave  London  8  a.m.;  arrive  at  Paria 
4.80  p.  M.  Night  service :  leave  London  8.05  p.  m.; 
reach  Paris  6  a.m.  —  Via  Folkestone  and  Boulogne, 
day  tidal  service :  London  to  Paris,  255  M. ;  Channel 
passage,  28  M.  in  2  hrs.  (Fares,  £2  16s.,  £2  2s. ;  time, 
84  hrs.)  There  is  a  cheap  night  service  to  Paris  via 
Boulogne  or  Calais  (fares,  2d  class  31s.  6d.,  3d  class 
21s.).  Return  tickets,  express  route,  via  Dover  and 
Calais,  or  Polkestone  and  Boulogne,  £4  15s.,  £3  15s.; 
bv  night  service,  47s.,  31s.  6d.  You  will  pass,  by  South 
Eiasteni,  Chiselhurst,  where  Napoleon  III.  died,  and 
where  he  and  his  son  Louis  are  buried;  and  by  Chat- 
ham and  Dover,  you  pass  Rochester,  which  has  r 
antique  Norman  Cathedral,  with  interesting  chaj 


1 60     BOCHESTER.  —  CANTERBURY.  —  DOVER. 

and  tHe  rains  of  a  powerful  Norman  castle,  with  beauti- 
ful environs,  including  Dickens's  old  home,  Gad^s  HUL 
Just  beyond  is  Chatham,  with  important  dock-yards  ^ 
and  Canterbury  {Fountain  Hotel:  Rose;  Fteur-Je-Lys), 
The  ancient  Mercery  Lane  leads  to  the  famous  Cathedral, 
built  1070-1184.,  522  ft.  long,  with  remarkable  chapels, 
monuments,  crypts,  cloisters,  and  a  very  beautiful  and 
lofty  central  tower.  See  St.  Augustine's  College  for 
missionaries,  in  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  abbey.  Thomas  ^ 
Becket  was  killed  in  the  cathedral,  and  the  Black  Prince 
is  buried  there.  At  Folkestone  (Pavilion  Hotel; 
Alexandra  Hotel)  the  train  stops  near  the  steamers. 
Dover  (Lord  Warden  Hotel;  Dover  Castle ,-  King's 
Head)  is  worth  half  a  day's  stay.  The  Casile,  the 
Keep,  the  JFatch  Tower,  the  Heights  and  Batteries,  and 
Shakespear^s  Cliff'  (vide  King  Lear),  deserve  attention. 
Routes  Longer  and  Iieas  Bzpeneive. —  Fia 
Newhaven  and  Dieppe  (day  and  night  boats  in  summer, 
tidal  service).  Fares,  tickets  good  for  7  days,  33s., 
24s.,  17s.  Time,  12-13  hrs.  Channel  passage,  64  M. 
(5i-7  hrs.).  —  Via  Southampton  and  Havre:  Mon., 
Wed.,  and  Fri.  (fares,  33s.,  24s.),  Boats  leave  South- 
ampton at  11.45  P.M.  Channel  and  river  passage  to 
Havre,  8i~9  hrs. —  From  London  Bridge,  across  the 
Channel  to  Boulogne.  —  From  Dover  to  Ostend,  for 
those  going  to  Belgium.  London  to  Ostend,  37s» 
5d.,  26s.  7d.  Channel  passage,  68  M.  (4  hrs.).— 
From  London,  via  Harwich,  to  Rotterdam  or  Antwerp, 
Leave  London  at  8  p.  M.;  Harwich,  10  p.  m.;  reach 
Rotterdam  9  a.  h.  Antwerp  boat  leaves  at  same 
lime ;  reaches  Antwerp  10  a.  m.  London  to  Ant- 
werp or  Rotterdam,  26s.,  21s.,  15s.  Returns,  40s., 
31s.  6d.,  24s.  Daily  service. — From  Lortdon,  via 
Queenshorough,  to  Flushing  daily. 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  .161 


NORTHERN    FRANCE. 

rpHE  Ports  of  ISntry  in  France  at  which  yon 
"*•    may  arrive  from  England  are  described  below. 

Calais  {Hot^l  Meuricej  Londres;  Sauvage)  may  be 
seen  in.  2-3  lirs.  The  Citadel  (1560);  the  Fortes 
Morale,  du  Havre^  and  de  la  Mer;  the  old  bastion  called 
Le  Courgain,  are  very  curious.  The  English  held  Cakis 
from  1347  to  1558,  when  France  regamed  possession. 
Mary  Tudor  said  tlie  name  Calais  wov\^  be  found  writ- 
ten on  her  heart.  The  Ch.  of  Notre  Dame^  with  a  pic* 
ture  by  Rubens ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  on  the  Place 
d' Amies  ;  the  old  Guet  Tower;  and  the  Hotel  de  Guise 
(Tudor  style),  built  by  Edward  III.  and  his  successora, 
are  the  principal  sights.  The  Hotel  Dessin  is  mentioned  in 
Sterne's  Sentimental  Journey.  Good  sea-bathing  in  sum- 
mer.    From  Calais  you  may  go,  via  Lille^  to.  Brussels. 

Boulogne  {Hotel  des  Bains;  De  la  Manne  j  Men- 
rice;  Du  Pavilion),  \\\r.  from  Calais  (fares,  5fr.  30  c., 
ii  fr.  95  c),  is  a  picturesque  town  on  the  Liane,  where 
it  enters  the  Channel.  It  is  a  fashionable  summer  re- 
jort.  Has  many  English  residents.  TheQwais/the 
Pier;  the  old  fishers'  town;  the  ancient  P(yrte  des 
bum's,  witli  a  statue  dated  1231;  the  clumsy  Cathedral 
of  Notre  Dame;  the  Chateau  (1230),  where  Louis  Na- 
poleon was  confined  in  1840  ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville ;  and 
the  great  Sea-Bathing  E'itablishment,  merit  notice. 
Le  Sage,  author  of  Gil  Bias,  and  Godfrey  de  Bouillon 
were  born  here.  On  a  hill  is  the  Colonne  de  la  Grande 
ArmSe,  built  1804-41.  Here  Napoleon  I.  assembled 
an  immense  army  and  fleet  for  invading  England. 

Dieppe  {JEUyyaX  Hotel;  Bristol;  de  la  Plage;  de 
11 


162  HAVRE. 

Londres)  is  a  summer  resort  of  the  fashionable  world. 
See  the  Casino^  on  the  beach  ;  the  great  Castle  (1438); 
the  ancient  Ch.  of  St.  Jacques,  patron  saint  of  fisher- 
men; the  piers  ;  and  the  Statue  of  Duquesne.  The 
bathing  is  fairly  good.  A  red  flag  is  hoisted  when 
the  tide  is  favorable.  Ruined  castle  of  Arcques, 
4  M.  S.  E.    Carved  ivory  is  a  specialty  of  Dieppe. 

Havre  {H6td  Frascati ;  De  Bordeaux;  Aigle 
d*(h*;  De  V Europe;  jyAngleterre),  once  known 
as  Haffre  de  Grace,  from  a  chapel  founded  by 
Louis  XII.  in  1509,  is  one  of  the  most  important  sea- 
XX)rts  in  Europe.  About  100,000  inhab.  Immense 
American  trade.  The  Docks  are  remarkable.  The 
Jetee  du  Nord  commands  a  fine  view.  From  the  hill 
of  Ste.  Adresse  the  outlook  is  charming.  The  prin- 
cipal things  to  see  are  :  The  Ch.  of  N6tre  Dame  (1575); 
the  Hotel  de  Ville  ;  the  Palais  de  Justice  ;  the  Grand 
Treatre  ;  the  Customs  Barracks;  and  the  Museum  (open 
Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  from  10  to  4).  Bronze 
statues  (by  David)  of  Bernardin  de  St.  Pierre  and 
Casirair  de  la  Vigne,  natives  of  Havre.  The  Jardin 
PutUque  is  pretty.  Ru^  de  PaHs  is  the  finest  street. 
Steamers  weekly  to  New  York.  (See  Chapter  on 
Travel.)  Opposite  Havre,  in  a  pretty  bend  of  the 
coast  (1  hr.  by  steamer),  is  Troaville-sor-Mar 
iHotel  des  Boehes  Noires,  with  bathing ;  De  Paris; 
D^ An^,eterre;  Bellemie),^\i\i  its  fine  Comuo  (admission, 
2  fr.)  and  beautiful  beach.  Great  number  of  villas 
liere  and  at  Deauville.  Aristocratic  resort  in  Aug.  and 
Sept.  Near  Trou  ville  is  a  chapel  in  which  William  the 
Conqueror  offered  prayer  before  he  set  out  to  conquer 
England.  1  hr.  oy  rail  from  Trouville  is  Honfleur. 
Btretat,  much  frequented  by  painters,  and  Fecamp,  a 
great  bathing  resort,  with  a  nne  Casino,  may  be  vis- 
ited from  Havre.  Fares  from  Havre  to  Paris,  28  fr. 
lOc,  21  fr.  5  c.,  15  fr.  45  c.    You  may  go  from  Havre  to 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  168 

Rouen  by  the  Seine,  a  lovely  journey,  but  very  slow 
(fares.  5fr..4fr.). 

Ronen  {H^Ui  d Albion  ;  If  An/gUterre  ;  Be  France  ; 
Be  la  Pio^;  Parte;  LiHetix)  can  be  visited  on  the  way 
to  Paris  from  Havre  or  Dieppe;  the  commercial  rival 
of  Havre,  a  port  of  much  importance;  historically  and 
architecturally  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  in 
Fi-ance.  This  aucient  capital  of  Normandy  Las  great 
cotton  factories  and  wine  depots.  (105,000  inhab.)  .  The 
Cai/iedral  of  Noire  Dame  is  a  magnificent  Gotliic  edi- 
fice, built  1207-80.  The  central  portal  on  the  W. 
was  erected  by  Cardinal  d'Amboise,  the  favorite  of 
Louis  XII.,  about  1510. .  Profuse  decorations  in  florid 
style.  The  Butter  Tower  {Tour  de  Beurre)  was  built 
with  money  got  from  the  sale  of  indulgences  to  eat 
butter  in  Lent.  This  is  230  ft.  higli,  unfinished,  like  Its 
twin.  The  central  spire  was  destroyed  by  lightning  in 
1822,  and  replaced  by  an  uglv  cast-iron  structure,  465 
ft.  higli.  Spiral  staircase  to  the  top.  The  fa9ade  06th 
century)  contains  many  remarkable  statues  aud  bits  of 
sculptures.  In  the  venerable  Tour  St.  Roniain  is  a 
charming  15th-century  hall.  See  the  Choir ;  the  25 
chapels ;  the  beautiful  stained  windows,  especially  the 
rose  windows  in  tlie  nave  and  transepts ;  tlie  chapel  S. 
of  the  nave,  which  contains  the  tomb  of  Rollo,  the 
first  Duke  of  Normandy  (927)  ;  and  the  chapel  oppo- 
site, in  which  William  of  the  Long  Swoi-d  (a.  943)  is 
buried.  In  the  Clutpelle  du  Christ,  near  the  High 
Altar,  is  a  mutilated  limestone  figure,  7  ft.  high,  of 
Richai'd  Coeur  de  Lion.  The  heai-t  of  the  sreat  kin^ 
is  buried  in  the  Choir.  Henry  IL  of  Eupfland  is  buriea 
here.  The  monument  to  Due  de  Brez6,  erected  by 
his  wife,  Diana  of  Poitiers,  mistress  of  Henri  it 
Also  one  to  Cardinal  d'Amboise  is  in  this  chapel  The 
cathedral  was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Jean  sans  Terre, 


164  ROUEN. 

and  finished  in  1477.    Interior  is  435  ft.  long,  height  of 
nave  89|  ft.,  130  windows. 

The  beautiful  Ch.ofSU  Ouen  is  one  of  the  noblest 
Gothic  structures  in  Europe.  It  is  cruciform,  and  dates 
from  1318.  The  portal,  between  two  pyramidal  towere, 
is  extremely  graceful.  Central  Tower,  "  the  Crown  of 
Normandy,'^'  285  ft.  high.  Interior,  443  ft.  long  by  88 
ft.  wide.  3  exquisite  rose  windows;  145  stained-glass 
windows.  This  ch.  suffered  much  from  the  Iconoclasts  . 
(in  1562),  as  also  did  the  bas-reliefs  over  the  entrance 
of  the  great  cathedral.  The  CL  of  St.  Maclou  (15th- 
16th  centuries)  has  a  very  fine  stone  spire,  and  a  foun- 
tain by  Jean  Goujon.  Other  chs. :  St.  Pattieia  (1535), 
magnificent  stained  glass  of  the  16th  century,  and  paint- 
ing by  Mignard  and  Poussin  ;  St.  Godard,  fine  mural 
pamtings  /  St.  Get-vaisj  with  a  ciypt  of  the  4th  centui^. 
St.  Vincent  and  St.  Romain  also  merit  a  visit.  The 
Archiepiscopal  Palace  (1461)  and  the  Hotel  de  Fille, 
which  IS  a  i-emnant  of  the  old  Abbey  of  St.  Ouen,  should 
be  visited  (library,  120,000  vols.).  In  front  of  the 
Hotel  de  Ville  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Napoleon  I. 
Interesting  statues  of  Corneille,  Jeanne  d'Arc,  and  Geri- 
cault.  Palace  of  Justixie  (concierge  shows  it,  If.)  is 
a  veritable  Gothic  chef-d^ceuvre.  The  room  in  which  the 
assizes  is  held  has  a  carved  oaken  roof,  and  it  was 
there  that  the  Parliament  of  Normandy  held  its  sessions. 
On  the  1.  of  the  Courtyard  is  a  gi*eat  HaUy  built  in  1493 
as  a  merchants'  exchange.  It  is  now  the  place  where 
lawyei-s  meet  their  clients  to  consult.  The  Museum 
now  contains  hundreds  of  pictures  by  David,  Delacroix, 
Gericault,  Paul  Veronese,  Poussin,  and  other  celebrated 
artists.  Visit  the  Rue  de  la  Grosse  Horloge,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  streets  in  the  city.  The  old  clock- 
tower,  with  a  gate  beneath,  dates  from  1527. 

The  most  interesting  section  of  Rouen  is  the  Place  de 


NOBTHERN  FRANCE.  165^ 

la  Pucelle,  where  a  fountain  marks  the  place  ee  which 
Joan  of  Arc  is  said  to  have  been  burned,  in  1431.  The- 
15th-century  Hotel  du  BaurgtherotUde  fronts  on  this, 
square.  Curious  decorations  on  the  tower,  and  bas- 
reliefs,  one  of  which  shows  the  Field  of  the  Cloth  of 
Gold.  In  the  Rue  Jeanne  d'Arc  is  a  Towe7'  (built 
1205),  subsequently  named  after  the  maid,  and  sup- 
posed to  have  been  her  prison.  The  Museum  of  An- 
tiquittes  and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  are  in  an 
,  old  convent  near  the  Place  Beauvoisine.  The  town 
is  rich  in  old  houses  with  timber-fronts. 

The  Seine  here  is  a  large  river,  navigable  for  most, 
ships,  and  bordered  by  fine  quays.  The  Corn's  Bo'iel^ 
dieu  has  a  statue  of  Boieldieu,  tlie  composer,  a  native- 
of  Rouen.  The  Seine  is  erossed  by  a  bridge,  adorned 
with  a  Siatue  of  GonieiUe ;  and  by  a  suspension  bridge^ 
at  whose  end  is  a  Monument  to  the  ALU  de  la  Salle. 

The  surrounding  country  is  extremely  beautiful. 
Climb  the  adjacent  liills,  especially  to  the  Pilgrimage' 
Ch.  of  Bon-ISecours,  2  M.  out.  Deliglitful  view  over 
Normandy.  The  service  in  the  ch.  is  peculiar.  Many 
])retty  excursions  by  steamer  on  the  Seine.  Visit 
tlie  Chateau  of  Robert  le  DiaOle,  near  Ija  Bouille^ 
From  Rouen  to  Paris  the  fares  are  16  fr.  75  c,  12|  fr.^ 
9  fr.  20  c.  Rouen  may  be  easily  visited  in  a  day  from 
Paris  (fares,  16f  fr.,  12^  fr.,  9  fr.  20  c),  returning  in  the 
afternoon.  At  Mantes  —  called  "  beautiful  Mantes  " — 
is  the  Gothic  Ch.  of  Notre  Dame,  of  the  12th  century,, 
richly  sculptured.  Junction  here  for  Caen  and  Cher-- 
bour^.  Farther  on  is  Poissg^  the  birthplace  of  St. 
Louis,  a  lovely  town  on  the  Seine,  and  a  favorite  resort, 
of  artists  (great  prison  here);  the  Forest  of  St.  Germain^ 
through  which  tlie  line  passes ;  Colombes  ;  St.  Germain^, 
with  its  palace,  may  be  seen  on  the  r. ;  and  AsmvreSy  a 
Parisian  suburb,  inhabited  by  commercial  jieople. 


166    AMIENS.  —  ABBEVILLE.  —  AKRA8. 

Amiens  (Hotel  de  V  Univers  ;  Du  JRhin)  is  a  great 
manufacturing  town  (80,000  inliab.),  once  the  capital 
of  Picai-dy.  See  Gothic  Cathedral,  erected  1220-88, 
■and  one  of  the  finest  in  Enix)pe.  The  spire  (432  ft. 
high)  was  restored  in  1529.  The  W.  fapade  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  that  can  be  imagined.  The  2  towers 
are  decorated  with  many  statues  and  medallions.  In 
the  Porcbe  du  Sauceur  is  a  magnificent  statue  of  Christ, 
commonly  called  Le  Beau  Dieu  d^Awietis.  Few  cathe- 
dral interior  excite  such  lively  admiration  for  pro- 
Hiigious  vaults,  lightness  of  the  columns,  and  astonishing 
variety  of  lines.  The  nave  is  147  ft.  high,  and  126 
columns  support  its  airy  vaulting.  See  organ  gallery 
(1422);  110  stalls  in  the  choir,  with  3,650  figures; 
superb  rose-mudow ;  stained-glass  windows;  and  the 
^reat  number  of  monuments  and  chapels.  The  choir- 
wall  is  adorned  with  reliefs  from  the  history  of  John 
the  Baptist  and  the  life  of  St.  Firmin.  Length  of  the 
<jathedi-ai,  469  ft.;  of  transept,  213  ft.;  width  of  nave, 
144  ft.;  towers,  181  ft.  and  210  ft.  In  the  rear  is  a 
statue  of  Peter  the  Hermit,  a  native  of  Amiens,  who 
preached  the  First  Crusade.  The  Picardy  Museum  con- 
tains interesting  pictures.  The  new  Palace  o/Justiee, 
and  the  Prefecture ,  which  has  a  15th-century  bell-tower, 
should  be  seen.  About  midway  between  Amiens  and 
Boulogne  is  Abbeville,  which  contains  many  odd  15th 
and  16th  century  houses ;  also  the  Ch.  of  St.  Vulfran^  and 
a  statue  to  the  composer  Lesueur.  Fares  from  Amiens 
to  Paris,  16fr.  lOc,  12  fr.  lOc,  8  fr.  85  c.  Rly.  connec- 
tion from  Amiens  with  Arras,  Douai,  and  Lille. 

Arras  ifl4iel  de  V  Univers;  Du  Comnterce)  has  a  double 
line  of  fordficadons  ;  a  citadel  constructed  by  Vauban 
in  1670 ;  and  a  cathedral,  which  was  the  old  Ch.  of  the 
Abbey  of  St.  Vmist.  Within  it  are  seen  fine  pictures 
•attributed  to  Rubens  and  Van  Dyck  ;  and  the  treasury 


NORTHERN  FRANCE.  167 

contains  the  robe  that  Thomas  a  Becket  wofe  when  he 
was  assassinated.  The  great  square  of  Arras  is  a  iin& 
illustration  of  the  pictorial  style  which  prevailed  during- 
the  Spanish  domination.  Museum  and  Public  Lidrary. 
The  coast  line  of  N.  France  is  dotted  with  pleasant 
summer-resorts  and  picturesque  towns,  old  and  new. 
From  Paris  to  Cherbourg  (fares,  45  fr.  70  c,  34  fr.  35  c, 
25  fr.  10  c),  via  Caen,  is  a  journey  through  the  inter- 
esting Norman  towns  of  Bvreiuc  (tine  catliedral,  11th 
century,  restored  in  the  18th);  IdBieuz  (cathedral,. 
1136-1333,  in  which  Henri  II.  was  married,  1152)  -^ 
and  Caen  {Hotel  d^4nffl6terre;  D'Espagne),  populatioi^ 
41,181,  the  town  of  which  Madame  de  Sevign^  said 
that  it  was  the  source  ''  de  lous  nos  plus  beaux  esprils'* 
View  from  the  heights  very  imposing.  See  Si.  Etienne^ 
and  Trijute  Chs. ;  the  Chateau^  founded  by  William 
the  Conqueror;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  decorated  with 
medallions  of  celebrated  Normans ;  the  Museum  (400» 
paintings);  the  Academy;  the  Hotel  de  Valois ;  and 
the  Place  de  la  BepvMique,  You  can  reach  Caen 
from  Havre  by  steamer  (6  fr.,  5.  fr.),  and  go  thence 
to  Cherbourg ;  and  thence  up  to  Paris,  if  de- 
sired. Cherbourg  {Hotel  des  Bains ;  De  I  Amiraute 
et  de  VBurope)^  a  citv  of  37,000  inhab.,  on  the  peninsula 
of  Cotentin,  is  the  first  military  port  in  France,  and  a 
very  important  fortress.  There  is  little  to  see  beside 
the  docks  and  fortifications;  and,  in  the  Mi$seum,  a 
portrait  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  painted  by  himself. 
Fine  casino.  Qranville,  farther  down  on  the  coast,  is 
the  port  whence  the  steamers  sail  for  the  Cliannel 
Islands.  Fares  from  Paris  to  Granville,  46  fr.  40  c, 
36  fr.  30  c,  22  fr.  20  c.  Still  farther  down  is  Mt.  Saint: 
Bfichel,  an  imposing  granite  rock,  2,700  ft.  around 
and  nearly  200  ft.  high,  connected  with  the  coast  by  at 
dike.    The  sea  surrounds  it  at  high  tide.    The  rock  i^ 


168  PARIS. 

siirrwottrtted  by  immense  fortifications,  an  abbey,  and  A^ 
<jh.,  with  a  statue  of  St.  Michael.  Pilgrimages  have 
been  made  here  smce  Louis  XI.  created  St.  Michael* s 
Order,  in  1469.  St.  Malo,  near  by,  was  the  birth- 
place of  Chateaubriand,  and  Jacques  Cartier,  the 
pioneer  in  Canada.  Dinan  is  a  pretty  little  town,  with 
old  walls  and  a  15th-century  castle.  Great  numbers  of 
Endish  people  winter  hero.  Dinard,  4  M.  from  St. 
Malo,  has  a  fine  bathing  establishment.  The  line  to  Brest 
is  close  by.  Brest,  population  66,000,  is  a  military 
port  and  fortress.  Vast  marine  hospital,  and  barracks. 
Formidable  batteries.  Fares,  Brest  to  Paris,  75  fr.  10  c, 
56  fr.  35 «.,  41  fr.  35  c.  On  the  way  see  Chartres 
iHotel  de  France;  Du  Grand  Monarque),  an  ancient 
■city,  with  celebrated  Cathedral,  the  t/owers  of  which 
•can  be  «een  for  25  M.  Upon  this  noble  Gothic  ch., 
which  was  160  years  in  buildinff,  there  are  many  thou- 
sands of  statues ;  there  are  50  bas-reliefs  in  the  choir, 
■and  marvellous  stained  windows  of  the  12th  and  13th 
centuries.  Henri  IV.  was  consecrated  in  this  ch.  in 
1594.  2  spires,  one  371  ft.,  the  other  340  ft.  high. 
There  is  a  Black  Virgin  here,  much  adored.  The  Crypi 
is  beautiful.  Many  odd  13th-century  houses  here. 
Gen.  Marceau  was  a  native  of  Chartres.  The  Museun* 
contains  a  noted  picture  representing  his  funeral. 

Paris. 

Paria,  with  the  exception  of  the  old  sections,  is  a 
very  easy  city  in  which  to  find  one's  way  about.  In 
summer  street-merchants  are  always  at  your  elbow 
with  very  good  maps,  with  which  you  can  explore  the 
capital,  even  if  you  know  no  French.  If  you  arrive  at 
^^-  ^are  du  Nord  (N.  Kly.  sfat.),  and  are  not  encum- 
^ith  baggnge,  walk  down  the  Rue  de  Lafayette 


PABI8.  169 

to  the  Grand  Opera  and  the  Boulevard  Hausimann  ; 
then  turn  up  the  B,ue  Scribe  to  the  main  boulevards, 
and  you  will  find  yourself  in  the  centre  of  Paris. 
If  you  come  in  from  Normandy,  you  will  arrive  at 
the  Gare  St.  Laeare,  but  a  short  walk  from  the  boule- 
vards. In  the  Stat,  your  baggage  is  examined  both 
for  general  customs  and  octroi  duties.  Spirits  and 
cigars  are  the  only  things  about  which  the  officers 
ar6  strict.  A  porter  will  take  your  trunk  or  valises, 
call  a  cab,  install  you  in  it,  give  you  a  little  card  with 
the  cab's  number  on  it,  and  for  this  expects  about 
50  c.  (lOcts.).  If  you  have  a  party,  and  several  large 
trunks,  charter  a  small  private  omnibus  (always 
plenty).  One  that  will  hold  6  persons  costs  6  fr.,  and 
no  extra  charge  is  made  for  a  reasonable  amount  of 
baggage.    Driver  expects  fee. 

Cabs  {Voitures).  —  The  cab  system  of  Paris  is  simple  and 
convenient.  From  6  a.m.  until  12.30  p.m.  a  l-horse  open  or 
closed  public  carriage  for  2  pereons  costs,  according  to  legally 
established  tariff,  IJ  fr.  for  single  drive;  gratuity  {pour- 
bo?re)y  rendered  obligatory  by  custom,  25  c. :  by  the  hr.,  2,fr. ; 
pourboire^  30  c.  Each  carriage  is  nimibered  on  the  lamps, 
and  the  driver  is  bound  to  give  you  a  printed  ticket,  with 
the  number  and  tariff  on  it.  Cabs  for  4  persons-cost  2  fr.per 
drive,  and  2 J  fr.  per  hr.  If  you  go  outside  the  fortifications 
you  must  make  special  arrangement  for  time  you  are  ontside. 
From  12.30  night  until  6  a.m.  the  tariff  is,  for  2-seated  cabs, 
2J  fr.  per  drive,  2^  fr.  per  hr. ;  4-seated,  24  fr.  per  drive,  2J  fr. 
per  hr.  The  whole  of  a  firet  hr.  (when  you  engageby  the  hr.) 
must  always  be  paid;  ^  hrs.  thereafter,  50c.  each.  Baggage 
(ontside),  25  c.  per  piece.  Li veiy -stable  rates  per  day  and 
per  month  for  carriages  are  rather  liigh  from  May  to  Aug. ; 
with  a  little  care  a  good  open  carriage  for  2  (driver  in  livery) 
may  be  had  for  25-30  fr.  per  day ;  gratnity  to  driver. 


170  PARIS. 

Horse--cara  (called  tramways)  run  on  most  of  the  great 
tboroughfaies,  except  the  grand  boulevards.  They  are  double- 
decked ;  the  large  ones  are  very  fine.  Go  to  the  suburbs 
Upon  them  rather  than  by  rail  or  in  private  carriage.  Om^ 
nibnaes  abound  ;  there  are  32  lines.  A  full  fare  paid  on 
one  procures  you  a  correspondance  gratis  on  another,  until 
you  havQ  reached  your  destination.  Fares  inside,  30  c.; 
above,  outside,  15  c.  On  some  streets  the  tramway  cars  aj*e 
moved  by  steam.  On  the  Seine  there  are  a  great  many 
small  steamers,  called  mouches  and  hirondeiies,  '*  flies  "  and 
'*  swallows."  ^  Fares  very  cheap.  —  Circular  Railway. 
The  Ceintnre  is  the  name  of  the  railway  which  runs  around 
Paris,  within  the  walls  (23  M.).  It  is  useful  for  giving  a 
good  idea  of  the  capitiil's  geography.     Round  trip  in  2  hrs. 

Hotels.  —  We  give  the  best,  the  most  centra],  and  suit- 
able  for  strangei-s  :  IJdtel  Bristol^  Place  Vendome,  expensive, 
aristocratic  i  Hdtel  Continanfal^  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  Cas- 
tiglione,  new,  splendid,  reasonable  (this  house  is  on  a  ])ortion 
of  the  site  of  the  Ministry  of  Finance,  burned  during  the 
Commune);  B6id  du  Louvre,  Rue  de  Rivoli ;  Grand  H6te(, 
Boulevard  des  Oapucines  ;  Terminus,  Gare  St.  Lazare  ; 
Du  RAiUy  Place  Vendome ;  Meurice^  Windsor y  Brighton,  Rne 
de  Rivoli ;  Grand  Hdtel  St.  James,  De  Lille  et  <f  Albion, 
l>^  Normandie,  Rne  St.  Honore  ;  Westminster,  MlrabeaUy 
Spfendide,  Rue  de  la  Paix  ;  De  Londres,  Dominiei, 
Liwrpool,  Rue  Castiglione;  ChatJiam,  De  V  Empire,  De 
FAimraute,  D' Orient,  RueDaunou(Rue  Neuve  St.  Au- 
gustin);  Normandy,  Des  Deux  Mondefi,  find  Binda,  in  the 
Avenne  de  I'Opcra;  Du  Palais,  Cours  La  Rrine;  D'Jlbe^ 
Avenue  de  TAlma;  Dff  St.  FHersbourg,  Rue  Canmailin ; 
De  VAthenee,  Rue  Scribe;  De  Bade,  Boulevard  des  Italiens; 
De  la  Terrasse  Jouffroy,  Boulevard  Montmartre ;  De  Baeiere, 
Rne  dii  Conservatoire;  Des  Ambassndeurs,  Rne  de  Lille; 
De  LondreSy  Rue  Bonaparte;  Du  Senat,  Rne  de  Tournon. 
Among  more  modest  hotels,  good,  we  may  mention  the  Hdtel 
de  la  Tamise,  Rue  d* Alger ;  De  la  Conronne,  Rne  du  Dau- 
phin ;  Trois  Princes,  Rne  Neuve  des  Pctits  Champs;  D'An^ 
iin.  Rue  d'Antin-    Ilelder,  Rue  du  Helder:    Byrom,  Roe 


to  aaM 

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9f>tlld  l9Jl90*I  8'fl98809 
01 

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PARIS.  171 

Laffitte ;  Du  Cano/da,  Rue  de  Choiseul ;  Be  France, 
Rue  de  Beaume  ;  Des  Mran^fers,  Rue  Racioe. 

Boarding-HoQses  (or  Peimoiis),  —  Of  these  there 
are  many.  Prices,  10-15  fr.  daily.  We  give  the  ad- 
dresses of  a  few,  frequented  chiefly  by  Americans  : 
Madame  Russell,  29  Boulevard  Haussmann ;  M. 
and  Mme.  Pincet.  35  Rue  -Cambon  ;  Mrs.  Defone» 
53bia  Boulevard  Haussmann  ;  Prof.  Tonnst,  same  ad- 
dress ;  Mme.  Starck,  30  Rue  Bassauo;  Hotel  Campbell, 
61  Avenue  de  Friedland  ;  Mrs.  Scofleld,  28  Avenue  de 
Jena ;  Amierican  Pension,  7  Avenue  du  Trocadero  ;• 
the  Misses  McDonnell,  90  Rue  de  la  Pompe ;  H6tel 
Dijon ,  29  Rue  Caumartin .  Furnished  single  rooms  can 
be  had  in  all  quarters  of  Paris,  at  from  40  to  125  f  r.  per 
month.  Furnished  suites  of  rooms  (in  French  aparte- 
7iM?2^  signifies  a  suite)  from  250  fr.  per  month  upwards. 
See  the  New  York  Herald  (Paris  edition),  the  JRegister, 
or  the  English  OaXignani,  for  other  particulars. 

Restaurants  and  Caf^s.  —  Cafe  Voisin,  Rae  St.  Ho« 
nore;  CafS  Anglais,  13  Boulevard  deB  Italiens ;  CafS  Biche, 
16  same  street;  Maison  BoreCy  20  same  street;  Bignon, 
32  Avenue  de  1' Opera;  Noel-Peters^  Passage  des  Princes; 
Brehanty  31  Boulevard  Poissonniere ;  Margucrgy  34  and  36 
Boulevard  Bonne  Nouvelle ;  Bonvalefsy  Boulevard  du  Temple ; 
Cafe  de  la  Paix,  near  the  Grand  Opera ;  Maire,  14  Boukvard 
St.  Denis ;  Cafe  de  Paris ,  41  Avenue  de  I'Opera ;  Viam 
(favorite  resort  for  Americans),  Rue  Daunou ;  Oaillon,  Place 
Gaillon ;  Taveme  de  Londres,  1  Rue  Gr^try ;  Morel,  8  Rue 
Favart;  Ledogen,  in  the  Champs  Elysees;  Champeaux, 
13  Place  de  la  Bourse;  Burand,  2  Place  de  la  Madeleine;: 
Magng,  8  Rue  Muzet ;  Fogot,  83  Rne  de  Toumon ;  Lucas 
(English  cookery),  9  Place  de  la  Madeleine  ;  Hill,  Boulevard 
des  Capncines.  These  are  tiSi  a  la  carte.  The  8  first  men- 
tioned are  rather  expensive ;  the  others  more  moderate.  In 
the  Palais  Royal  and  the  Passage  des  Paaoramas,  and  oq  the 
Bookvard  Montmartre,  are  several  restaurants  where  break* 
fasts  and  dinners  at  fixed  prices  may  be  had.  At  the  IHnef 
de  Paris,  12  Bonlevard  Montmartre,  breakfast  is  8  fr. ;  dinner 


172  PARIS. 

5  fr.  Wine  is  always  included  in  fixed-price  dinners. 
Tlie  Diner  Earopeen  is  very  good  :  breakfast,  3  f r. ; 
dinner,  5  f  r.  In  the  Palais  Royal  there  are  numerous 
restaurants  that  give  breakfast  at  1  f r.  75  c. ;  dinner, 
2  f r.  25  c.  to  2  fr.  50  c.  The  Duval  Restaurants,  or 
Etablissements  de  Bouillon,  are  peculiar.  There  is 
but  a  limited  choice  of  dishes,  but  everything  is  well 
prepared  and  moderately  cheap.  The  Parisians  break- 
fast 10.30-1,  and  dine  6-8.  We  cannot  mention  one- 
third  of  the  principal  cafes,  but  will  recommend  the 
Chfes  de  la  Paix,  Tortoni,  Grand,  Americain,  Hdder. 
Madrid,  Riche,  Varietes,  De  Paris,  Napolitain.  In  the 
Bois,  restaurants :  Pavilion  d' ArmenonviUe,  la  Cascade, 
Madrid,  Ladies  may  visit  most  of  the  cafes  men- 
tioned above,  except  the  Americain,  in  the  evening. 

General  Information.— The  American  Legation 
is  at  No.  59  Rue  Galilee  ;  present  minister,  Hon. 
James  B.  Eustis.  The  Consulate  of  the  United 
States  is  36  Ave.  de  TOpera  ;  present  Consul,  Samuel 
E.  Morse.  American  church  services ;  Rue  de  Berry, 
31 ;  Avenue  de  TAlra,  19  (Episcopal). 

The  Latin  Quarter,  S.  of  the  Seine,  has  for  centuries  been 
devoted  to  universities,  colleges,  and  schools  of  all  kinds. 
Many  thousands  of  students  reside  there  all  the  time.  The 
Students'  Ball,  called  the  Closerie  des  Lilas,  or  Bullier,  is  at 
the  Carrrfour  de  VObservatoire. 

There  are  three  principal  race  meetings  in  Paris,  in  April, 
May,  and  September.  The  spectacle  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 
when  the  Grand  Prix  (the  principal  summer  race)  is  run, 
should  not  be  missed.    The  principal  prize  is  100,000  fr. 

We  would  suggest  that  you  start  from  the  Place  de 
la  Concorde,  wa&  up  the  Rue  Royale  to  the  Ch.  of  the 
Madeleine  (Magdalen),  and  then  follow  the  line  of 
the  gramk  boulevards  to  the  Plaoe  de  la  Bastille. 
You  may  go  on  an  omnibus-top  for  3  aous,  or  in  an  open 
-^rriage  for  1  fr.  75  c. ;  but  we  say  walk.  Boulevard 
ins  bulwark ;  and  tliese  fine  streets  were  called  so 
luse  thev  are  on  the  line  of  the  old  fortifications. 


PABIS.  173 

Nowadays  tj^e  term  Is  loosely  applied  to  any 
large  new  avenue.  You  pass  up  the  boule- 
vards —  Des  Capttdneg  (this  is  in  mid -Paris; 
here  are  the  Grand  Hotel,  the  Opera,  the  Grand 
Cafe,  the  Jockey  Club,  and  the  Bue  SciHbe)  -. 
^Des  lialiens  (brilliant  with  theatres  and  restaurants) ; 
Montmartre  (splendid  cafes  and  shops) ;  Poissonii^re ; 
Bonne-Nouvelle ;  St.  Denis  (see  the  old  city  gates, 
very  fine)  ;  St.  Martin  ;  Du  Temple  ;  Dea  Filtet  du  Cal- 
vaire ;  Beaumarchais,  —  and  you  are  at  the  Bastille, 
i.  e.  the  square  where  the  celebrated  prison  stood. 
Whole  length  of  this  line  of  streets,  2}  M.  Eeturn  by 
the  Rue  St.  Antoine,  and  the  Rue  de  Bivoli,  past 
the  Tuileries,  to  the  Place  die  la  Concorde,  whence  you 
started.  The  exterior  boulevards  run  from  near  the 
Arc  de  Triomphe,  at  the  Ternes,  around  to  the  quays 
of  Bercy  on  the  Seine,  through  La  Villette  and  Belle- 
ville, the  workmen's  quarters.  Tramways  here.  The 
Boulevards  du  Strasbourg,  Sebastopol,  Bu  Palais,  and 
St.  Michel  form  a  continuous  avenue  from  the  Eastern 
EJy.  stat.  across  the  city  to  the  Observatory.  A  walk 
from  one  end  to  the  other  is  extremely  interesting.  The 
Boulevard  Malesherbes  runs  from  the  Madeleine  to  the 
fortifications,  and  the  Boulevard  Haussmann  from  the 
Avenue  de  Friedland  to  the  Rue  Taitbout.  Morning 
walks  on  these  avenues,  and  on  the  12  streets  radiating 
from  the  Arc  de  Triomphe,  ficive  an  idea  of  New  Paris. 
The  Isle  de  la  Cite  on  which  Paris  began,  should 
have  an  early  visit.  Ndtre  Dame,  the  cathedral  of  the 
Archbishop  of  Paris,  was  built  in  1163-82.  on  the  site 
of  a  4.th-century  ch.  It  is  417  ft.  long,  156  wide,  and 
110  high.  Twin  towers,  264  ft.  The  fa9ade  (13th 
century),  with  its  rich  Gothic  sculptures  and  crowds 
of  statuary  over  the  portals,  is  very  imposing.  The 
carvings  over  the  central  entrance  represent  the  Z^*/ 


174       n6tRE  dame.  —  PALAIS  DE  JUSTICE. 

Judgment.  Entrance  by  the  1.  portal.  In  the  Eevola- 
tion,  in  1793,  the  eh.  was  converted  into  a  ''  Temple 
of  Reason."  During  the  Commnne  it  was  a  military 
depot.  Most  of  the  sculptures  were  broken  at  the 
time  of  the  Revolution.  Choir  completed,  12th  cen- 
tury ;  W.  portion,  in  13th.  The  interior,  with  its  nave* 
ana  double  aisles,  is  majestic.  Many  famous  prelates 
are  buried  in  the  choir-chapels.  75  pillars  support 
the  vaulting.  Splendid  rose-windows  in  the  transept. 
37  chapels.  Fine  pulait,  by  Viollet-le-Duc,  in  the  nave. 
The  Treasury  (fee,  \  fr. j  may  be  inspected.  The  robe 
in  which  Archbishop  Darboy  was  shot  by  the  Com- 
munists is  shown.  To  ascend  the  towers  (fee,  20  c), 
go  round  to  N.  side  of  1.  front  tower,  and  ring  the  bell. 
In  the  8.  tower  is  the  huge  Bourdon  bell.  Note  the 
curiously  carved  figures  of  men  and  animals  on  the  roof. 
The  effect  of  the  nying  buttresses  below  is  very  strik- 
ing. See  Victor  Hugo's  Notre  Dame  de  Paris,  for  an 
eloquent  description  of  the  cathedral.  The  view  from 
the  towers  is  the  best  in  Paris.  In  a  bright  summer-day 
it  is  bewildering,  from  its  very  vastncss.  Just  behind 
Notre  Dame  is  the  Morgae,  or  Dead Hau8e,when  you 
may  view  unclaimed  bodies.  It  is  open  to  the  public. 
Prom  the  cathedral's  top  observe  the  new  Hotel  Dieu, 
an  immense  hospital ;  the  Fontaine  Notre  Dame,  the 
Flaee  du  Farms,  and  the  Fhwer  Market,  The  old  Ho- 
telDieu  (660)  has  been  demolished. 

While  you  are  in  the  CitS,  go  to  see  the  Palais  de 
Justice  (magnificent  new  additions) ;  and  the  prison 
of  the  Concierfferie,vr\ieTe  Marie  Antomette  and  so  manv 
other  victims  of  the  Revolution  were  imprisonea. 
The  Palais  de  Justice  is  open  daily,  except  Sundays ; 
and  here  most  of  the  Courts  of  Justice  may  be  visited 
(guide,  1-2  fr.).  The  Qmr  d^ffonneur  is  very  fine, 
'"'he  great  Salle  des  PasPerdus,  266  ft.  long, is  where 


PARIS.  175 

mystety-plays  were  performed.  See  Hugo's  Noire 
Daius,  The  Sainte  Chapelle  (open  daily  13-4,  except 
Mon*  and  Fri.)  is  a  nobly  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic 
{1245-4S).  Note  the  magnificent  stained  glass  filling 
the  sides  of  the  Upper  Qkapel.  The  Mass  of.  the  Holy 
Ohost  is  celebrated  here  once  a  year.  Opposite  the 
Palais  de  Justice  is  the  Tribunal  de  Commerce,  a  beauti- 
ful Renaissance  building,  1860-66  (open  daily).  Ob- 
serve the  old  Clock  Tower  of  the  Palais  de  Justice,  one  of 
the  few  remnants  of  the  original  edifice.  See  the  Flace 
Dauphine,  and  the  equestrian  Statue  of  Henri  IF,  near 
by.     Good  view  of  the  Louvre  from  the  Pont  Neuf. 

"  Churches  of  Interest  —  The  Pantheon  (i764r- 
90),  on  high  ground,  on  the  spot  where  Genevieve,  the 
patron  saint  of  Paris,  was  buried  in  512.  The  Con- 
stituent Assembly  made  a  Pantheon  out  of  it ;  and  the 
Catholics  did  not  regain  their  place  of  worship  until  1851. 
Inscription  still  on  the  pediment :  Aux  grands  honime» 
la  patrie  reconnaissante.  Noble  dome  (272  ft.) ;  ascend 
it  tor  view.  Interior  decoration  of  dome,  by  Gros,  fine. 
Portico  of  22  Corinthian  columns,  81  ft.  high.  Small 
fee  for  admission  to  crypts,  where  are  the  tombs  of 
Voltaire,  Eousseau,  Lannes,  Bougainville,  and  other 
noted  men.  8t,  Etienne  du  Mont  (1517)  near  the  Panthe- 
on, has  some  matchless  stained  glass  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. The  Polytechnic  School  is  in  the  rear.  St.  Ger- 
main r  Auzerrois  is  opposite  the  Louvre  front.  From 
its  belfry  the  signal  for  the  massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew 
was  sounded.  Note  the  oval  arches  of  the  porch  (1435). 
Fayade  15  th  and  16th  centuries.  Rich  modern  frescos 
and  interesting  chapels  inside.  St.  Germain  des  Free 
is  on  Rue  Bonaparte  ;  built  1001-1163,  as  the  ch.  of  a 
powerful  abbey.  Inside  are  admirable  and  extensive 
frescos  by  the  celebrated  Flandrin ;  ancient  monu- 
ments in  choir  and  nave.    St.  Eustaohe  is  near  the 


^76  THE  MADELEINE. 

HaUet  Centrales  (1532-1637) ;  Gotliic,  with  Grecian 
W.  front  luterior  beautifully  decorated.  Suffered 
much  damage  in  the  Commune,  when  it  was  used  as  a 
"  Club."  Remarkable  marbles.  St  Roch,  on  Rue 
St.  Honore.  Exterior  plain,  interior  rich ;  famous 
music.  Here  Napoleon  I.  planted  his  cannon,  and 
blew  the  French  Revolution  into  space ;  vide  Carlyle. 
—  Noire  Daxie  de  Lorette,  Rue  de  Chateaudun,  is  the 
ch.  that  Thiere  was  buried  from.  The  Trinite,  Place 
of  same  name;  new  (1867),  very  elegant  and  rich. 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  Rue  de  Lafayette.  —  The  brilliant 
new  Runsian  Ch.,  near  the  Pare  de  Monceaux.  Inter- 
esting service  here.  The  Fal  de  Ghrdce,  Rue  St.  Jacques, 
wonderfully  decorated  with  paintings  by  Mignard. 
St.  Snlpice,  S.  of  the  Seine,  a  vast  and  richly  decorated 
ch.,  with  towers  230  ft.  high,  and  statues  of  Sts.  Peter 
and  Paul.  La  Sorbonne,  adjoining  the  great  university, 
contains  the  Tomb  of  Cardinal  Richelieu. 

The  Madeleine,  the  most  beautiful  edifice  in  Paris, 
is  in  the  style  of  a  Greek  temple,  330  ft.  long,  130  wide, 
and  100  higli,  surrounded  by  Corinthian  columns.  In  the 
colonnade  are  niches  containing  figures  of  saints.  Cou- 
ture contributed  to  the  designs.  The  pediment,  120  X 
25,  represents  the  Last  Judgment.  IJie  bmnze  doors 
are  subjects  from  the  Old  Testament.  On  Grand 
AUur,  the  Assumption,  in  white  marble ;  and  painting 
of  Magdalen  at  the  feet  of  Christ  Flower-market  on 
each  side  of  the  ch.,  Tues.  and  Fri.  Very  fine  music, 
Sun.  St.  Augustin,  Boulevard  Malesherbes,  contains 
many  fine  paintings.  —  The  Chapelle  Expiaioire^  Rue 
d'Anjou,  is  to  the  memory  of  Louis  XVI.  and  his 
Queen,  and  other  victims  of  the  Revolution.  The 
new  Ste.  Clotilde,  Place  Bellechasse,  and  St.  Pierre 
de  Montmartre,  are  worth  seeing.  Notre  Dame  de 
Bonnes  NouwUes,  on  the  summit  of  Montmartre,  is  a 
-^w  church  and  one  of  the  largest  in  Paris. 


PARIS.  177 

The  Palaces.  —  The  best  place  from  which  to  see 
the  imposing  front  of  the  Louvre  is  the  park  before 
St.  Germain.  The  Colonnade  was  constracted  in  1685,, 
on  the  £.  facade.  The  central  portion  of  this  front 
is  known  as  the  Pavilion  Henri  Quatre.  See  statues 
of  Napoleon  I.'s  generals  on  the  Rokan  Pavilion.  The 
interior  oourtyai*d  is  an  architectural  marvel.  See 
the  86  colossal  statues  of  illustrious  Frenchmen  in  the 
Square  du  Louvre.  The  entrance  to  the  Museums, 
which  are  among  tlie  richest  and  most  remarkable  in 
Europe,  is  through  a  door  on  the  1.,  coming  from  the 
Cour  du  Louvre,  under  the  Sully  Pavilion,  and  through 
the  Pavilion  Denon,  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  facade  of 
the  building  erected  by  Napoleon  III.  Collections 
open,  free,  daily,  except  Mon.,  in  summer,  9-5 ;  in 
winter,  10-4.  A  few  of  the  sculpture  rooms  and  col- 
lections of  antiquities  ai*e  not  opened  until  1  p.m. 
Guides  2  fr.  an  hr.,  but  the  catalogues  will  enable 
most  visitors  to  find  their  way  about.  The  Venus 
of  Milo,  the  Fettered  Slaves  of  Michael  Angelo,  the 
Mona  Lisa  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  and  a  noble  group 
of  the  works  of  Raphael,  Titian,  and  Veronese  are 
the  chief  treasures.  In  one  gallery  there  are  21  large 
pictures  by  Hubens.  The  Salon  Carre  contains  the 
most  striking  works  of  art.  There  are  2,000  paintings 
in  the  Louvre.  See  the  Apollo  Gallery  (Henri  IVj, 
with  plafond  by  Delacroix.  The  Marine  and  Chinese 
Museums  should  not  be  omitted.  The  Palace  of  the 
Tuileries,  begun  in  1564  by  Philibert  de  Lorme  for 
Catherine  de  Medicis,  has  for  10  years  or  more  lain 
in  ruins.  It  was  almost  entirely  desti-oyed  during 
the  Commimal  insurrection  of  1871.  The  whole  front 
was  so  utterly  ruined  that  restoration  was  considered 
out  of  the  question.  Tlie  Pavilion  de  Flore  and  the 
Gallery  on  the  Seine  bank  unite  the  Louvre  with  tl' 


178  PALAIS  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 

Tuileries.  Fine  sculptures  by  Cavelier  and  Carpeaux. 
The  courtyard  is  the  Place  du  Carrousel.  It  takes  its 
name  from  a  carousal,  or  ball,  held  there  by  Louis  XIV. 
in  1662.  The  Triunvphal  Arch  which  stands  here  is  an 
imitation  of  the  Arch  of  Severus  at  Rome,  and  was 
erected  by  Napoleon  I.  to  commemorate  his  victories 
of  1805-6.  It  was  originally  crowned  with  the  horses 
taken  from  the  portal  of  St.  Mark's  Ch.  in  Venice, 
but  these  were  sent  back  to  Italy  by  the  Emperor  Fran- 
cis in  1814.  Bonaparte,  when  French  Consul,  lived 
there;  and  Louis  XVIII.,  Charles  X.,  Louis  Phi- 
lippe, and  Napoleon  III.  made  it  their  home.  Read 
Carlyle's  account  of  the  attack  on  the  Tuileries  by  a 
mob  of  40,000  rioters  in  1793.  In  front  is  the  Tuile- 
-rles  Garden,  2,340  ft.  long,  which  extends  to  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  in  summer  is  a  delightful 
resort  thronged  with  people.  Military  music  twice  a 
week  in  summer.  The  Terrasse  de9  FeuiUanta,  on 
the  N.  side,  is  a  pleasant  promenade. 

The  Palais  du  Luxembourg  was  built  1615-20, 
and  enlarged  in  1804.  It  was  once  a  royal  habitation, 
a  prison  during  the  Revolution,  the  palace  of  the 
Directory  and  the  Consulate, .  and  is  now  the  meet- 
ing-place of  the  Senate  of  the  Republic.  Chapel  and 
museum  open  daily  (except  Mon.),  10-4.  The  Little 
Luxembourg,  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Marie  de 
Medicis,  is  near  oy.  The  collections  were  (until  1875) 
next  in  importance  to  the  Louvre.  The  Luxembourg 
Museum  was  long  the  haltiug-place  for  pictures  of  dis- 
tinguished native  artists.  Galleries  of  paintbigs  open 
daily  (Mon.  excepted),  9-5  in  summer;  Sun.  and  Fri., 
10-4.  In  tlie  garden,  where  military  music  is  played 
on  Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.  afternoons,  there  is  a  fine 
fountain,  and  statues  of  celebrated  Frenchwomen. 

The  Palais  Royal  is  always  interesting  to  strangers. 


PARIS.  179 

It  was  built  1625-34  for  Cardinal  Richelieu.  The 
famous  galleries,  which  now  form  such  a  charming 
promenade,  and  are  filled  with  attractive  shops,  were 
built  by  Philippe-Egalite.  The  Theatre  of  the  Comedie 
Fran^ise  is  adjacent  to  the  palace.  In  the  garden, 
military  music  in  summer  evenings. 

The  Palaia  de  I'Elys^e,  having  facades  on  the 
Faubourff  St.  Honore  and  the  Champs  Elys^es,  is  at 
present  the  residence  of  the  President  of  tlie  Republic. 
It  was  built  in  1718,  and  restored  under  Napoleon  I. 
Fine  old  garden  on  the  Champs-Ely  sees  side.  The 
Palais  Bourbon,  in  wliich  the  Corps  Legislatif  held 
its  sessions  under  Napoleon  III.,  was  built  for  the 
Duchess  of  Bourbon  in  1722.  Fine  peristyle  fronting 
on  the  Seine,  with  12  Corinthian  columns  and  flight 
of  steps  decorated  with  colossal  statues.  The  Hotel 
dela  Prmdence  is  near  by.  The  Palais  d'Orsay  was 
partly  destroyed  in  May,  1871. 

The  Palais  de  I'lndustrie  stands  in  the  centre  of 
fine  gardens  on  tlie  1.  as  you  walk  up  the  Champs 
Elysees.  This  immense  structure  was  built  in  1852- 
55  by  a  company,  and  used  for  the  first  Universal 
Exhibition  in  Paris.  It  belongs  to  the  government; 
and  most  of  the  great  fairs  of  competitive  festivals,  as 
well  as  the  annual  exhibition  of  modem  naintings  and 
sculptures,  called  the  Salon,  lasting  from  May  to  July, 
are  held  there.  In  the  Avenue  Montaigne  is  the 
Palais  Pompeien,  built  for  Prince  Napoleon  after  the 
one  of  Diomed  at  Pompeii.     Admission,  1-2  fr. 

The  Palace  of  the  Institute^  on  the  site  of  the  o!J 
Hotel  de  Nesle,  was  completed  in  1662.  It  is  an  odd 
structure,  with  a  Corinthian  porch  adorned  with  figures 
of  lions  and  with  fountains.  During  the  Revolution 
it  was  a  prison.  The  academy  holds  its  sassier' 
here.    The  annual  meeting  of  the  five  departme^ 


180  BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE. 

combined  is  held  in  Aug.  in  the  Great  Hall.  8  fine 
libraries.  The  Mazarine  Library  (200,000  vols.)  is 
open  to  the  public  lO-^:  (except  Sun.). 

The  PcUais  des  Beaux-Arts,  in  the  Rue  Bonaparte, 
is  the  seat  of  the  School  of  the  Fine  Arts,  founded  in 
1648  (open  daily,  10-4;  fee,  1  fr.).  On  the  railiiig 
which  separates  the  court  from  the  Rue  Bonaparte  are 
colossal  busts  of  Puget  and  Poussin.  Near  the  Inva- 
lides,  in  Rue  de  Grenelle,  is  the  Archbishop's  Palace. 

The  quaint  mediaeval  Hotel  de  Cluny  (founded 
about  1500),  Rue  du  Sommerard,  contains  about  4,000 
objects  in  marble,  wood,  stone,  ivory,  enamels,  terra- 
cotta, prints,  stained  glass,  pottery,  etc.  (catalogue  at 
the  door).  The  old  Palais  des  Thermes,  which  fronts 
on  the  Boulevard  St.  Michel,  was  built  by  Constantius 
Chlorus  and  by  Julian  the  Apostate,  who  has  left  on 
record  his  predilection  for  spending  part  of  his  time  in 
his  "  dearLutetia"  (open  daily,  11-4.30).  The  Musee 
Municipal,  at  the  Hotel  Camavalet,  Rue  Sevigne,  can 
be  visited  with  an  order.  A  library  of  45,000  vols., 
composed  of  works  relative  to  the  history  of  the  city  of 
Paris,  is  here.  The  interesting  Artillery  Museum  is  at 
the  Hotel  des  Invalides  (open  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sun. 
in  summer,  12-3).  The  Mint  Museum,  on  the  Quai 
Conti,  may  be  visited  Tues.  and  Fri.  (12-3),  by  order. 

Parks  and  Gardens.  —  The  Bois  de  Boulogne 
is  the  chief  park  of  the  French  capital,  and  comprises 
a  tract  of  about  2,250  acres,  of  which  70  are  artificial 
lakes,  iust  opposite  the  fortifications,  and  extending 
along  tne  banks  of  the  Seine.  The  Bois  is  connected 
with  the  Champs  Elys^es  by  several  magnificent  ave- 
nues ;  and  the  principal  one,  tlie  Avenue  du  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  is  4,200  ft.  long  and  315  ft.  wide.  The 
drive  Around  the  Lake  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  fashion 
^'e  capital,  in  winter  from  3  to  5  o'clock,  and  of 


PARIS.  181 

strangers  from  all  parts  of  the  world  in  summer  from 
5  to  8  o'clock.  The  Cascade;  the  Field  of  LongehampSy 
on  which  races  and  renews  are  held ;  the  Jardin 
d^Acdimatation  (zoological  gardens) ;  Jfodd  Dairy, 
Pre  Catalan  ;  the  AUee  des  Acacias,  through  the  centre 
of  this  park  ;  the  pretty  suburbs  of  Passy  and  Auteuil; 
and  the  towns  of  Boulogne,  Suresnes,  and  St.  Cloud, 
— are  the  principal  objects  of  interest. 

E.  of  Paris  is  the  Bois  de  Vincennes,  a  vast 
woody  tract, "  which  furnishes  a  deliglitfiil  breathing- 
place  for  the  Parisians.  The  Chateau  (open  Sat.,  12-4, 
oy  order  from  Commandant)  was  built  in  1164,  and 
is  a  strong  fortress,  contaimng  barracks  and  arsenal^ 
and  a  military  school.  There  is  a  monument  to  the 
Due  d'Enghien  ;  and  from  the  Donjon,  a  square  tower 
190  ft.  high,  a  fine  view  may  be  enjoyed.  The  chapel 
was  founded  in  1379. 

The  Buttes  Chaumont  is  a  picturesque  park  of 
55  acres,  in  the  Belleville  quarter.  In  the  centre  is 
an  island  bearing  a  reproduction  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Sibyl  at  Tivoli.  Great  battle  near  here  on  the  SOth  of 
May,  1814.  The  Fare  de  Monceauz  may  be  entered 
from  the  Rue  de  Courcelles.  It  covers  18  acres,  and 
is  surrounded  by  magnificent  residences  of  wealthy 
Parisians.  Great  numoers  of  Communists  were  exe- 
cuted here  at  the  close  of  the  insurrection. 

The  Champs-Blys^a  is  a  world-famous  prome- 
nade. The  illumination  on  the  14th  of  July  (national 
fete)  is  a  superb  spectacle.  Most  of  the  Cafe-Concerts 
of  importance  have  summer  theatres  here. 

The  Jardin  des  Flantea,  easily  reached  by  omnibu» 
or  by  river  steamboat,  is  open  daily  fi"om  10  till  dark. 
The  fine  Menagerie  is  open  daily  in  summer,  10-5 ;  the 
Galleries,  containing  the  collections,  on  Tues.  and  Sun. 
afternoons ;  library  daily,  10-3.  Botanic  Garden  here^ 
one  of  the  pleasantest  promenades  in  the  eity. 


182       JULY  COLUMN. —ARC  DE  TEIOMPHE. 

The  Place  de  la  Concorde,  one  of  the  finest  squares 
in  the  world,  is  a  good  starting-point  for  any  excur^on 
about  Paris.  In  the  centre  is  the  Obelisk  of  Luxor, 
given  to  Louis  Philippe  by  the  Paslia  of  Egypt.  It  is 
76  ft.  high,  and  weighs  240  tons.  On  either  side  is  a 
bandsome  fountain.  Arranged  about  the  Place  are 
8  stone  figures,  representing  the  chief  towns  of  France. 
On  the  statue  of  Strasbourg  the  visitor  may  generally 
observe  a  mourning  wreath.  The  Germans  bivouacked 
here  in  1871.  In  1792-99,  3,000  people  perished  here 
on  the  guillotine.  Louis  XVI.  was  executed  near  cen- 
tral gate  of  Tuileries  garden.  —  The  Place  de  la  Bastille 
has  in  its  centre  the  July  Column,  153  ft.  high,  with 
figure  of  Liberty.  See  Place  du  Chateau  d'Eau,  Place 
du  Chatelet,  Place  Lourois,  and  Place  Dauphine.  On 
the  Place  du  Pont  St.  Michel  there  is  a  fine  fountain, 
with  a  bronze  statue  of  Michael  overcoming  the  Dragon. 
On  the  Place  St.  Georges  stands  the  house  in  which 
Thiers  lived  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life.  In  the 
centre  of  the  Place  de  PEtoile,  at  the  top  of  the  Cliamps- 
Elys^es,  stands  the  noble  Arc  de  Trlomphe  de 
I'Etoile,  begun  in  1806  by  Napoleon  I.,  and  finished  in 
Louis  Philippe's  reign,  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000.  Tlie 
structure  is  160  ft.  high,  146  ft.  wide,  and  72  ft.  deep. 
The  vast  arch  is  67  ft.  high  and  46  ft.  wide.  On  the 
sides  are  groups  representing  the  Napoleonic  campaigns. 
Names  of  nearly  150  battles  appear  on  the  vault.  Spiral 
staircase  of  261  steps  to  platform  at  top,  whence  a  grand 
view.  From  the  Triumphal  Arch  to  the  Porte  Maillot 
runs  the  Avenue  de  la  Grande  Arviee. 

In  the  Place  Venddme  is  a  column  140  ft.  high, 
sTirmounted  by  a  statue  of  Napoleon  I.,  in  costume  of  a 
Csesar.  The  column,  pulled  down  by  communists 
in  1871,  was  made  of  cannon  taken  from  the  Aus- 
trians.   Notice  curious  heads  over  the  houses  round 


PARIS.  185 

the  Square.  The  Place  Louvois,  near  the  National 
Library;  the  Place  de  la  Bourse,  where  stands  the 
Bourse,  or  Exchange  (from  a  gallery  in  which  visitors 
can  notice  the  curious  financial  crush  from  12  to  3)  - 
the  Square  Montholon,  on  the  Rue  Lalayette;  the 
Fsplauade,  in  front  of  the  Invalides ;  the  Champs  de 
Mars,  where  three  great  exhibitions  have  been  held, 
and  where  the  celebrated  Eiffel  Tower  (984  ft.  in 
height)  is  located;  the  Troeadero  Ga/rdens,  now  crowned 
with  a  superb  palace  used  for  historical  collections  and 
for  musical  concerts  ;  the  Plac^  Cliehy,  at  the  head  of 
the  street  of  the  same  name ;  and  the  Place  de  la  Nation^ 
should  not  be  forgotten  by  the  visitor.  The  Place  ds 
Greve,  Mthere  the  stake  and  the  scaifold  were  erected  so 
often  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  is  now  called  the 
Place  de  VHolel  de  Ville  ;  and  directly  in  the  rear  of  it 
is  the  new  City  Hall,  a  magnificent  structure,  erected 
on  the  ruins  of 'the  one  burned  to  the  ground  by  the 
Communists,  May  24,  1871.  With  the  old  building, 
1533-1628,  a  library  of  100,000  vols,  was  consumed. 
The  new  Hotel  de  Ville  is  ornamented  with  hundred« 
of  statues.  The  Place  de  la  Eoquette  is  a  gloomy  square, 
in  front  of  the  prison  to  which  criminals  are  transferred 
when  they  are  sentenced  to  death.  Many  notorious  exe. 
cutions  occurred  on  this  Place.  In  the  Place  des  Victoires 
see  the  clumsy  statue  of  Louis  XIV. ;  the  statues  of 
Jeanne  d*Arc,  on  the  Rue  de  Rivoli,  in  the  Place  des 
Pyramides ;  and  that  of  Marshal  Ney  at  the  Observatory. 
The  Forte  St.  Martin  and  the  Porte  St  Denis, 
on  the  Boulevard  St.  Denis,  are  triumphal  arches, 
erected  in  1674  and  1672  respectively,  to  commemorate 
the  victories  of  Louis  XIV.  in  Holland  and  on  the 
Lower  Rhine.  The  allied  armies,  when  they  entered 
Paris  ui  1814,  passed  through  the  Porte  St.  Martir 
just  as  the  German  armies  entered  under  the  Arr 


184  THE  PASSAGES  OF  PARIS. 

Trioniphe  in  1871.  Near  these  2  arches  there  were 
sanguinary  conflicts  in  the  insurrections  of  ISSO,  184S, 
and  1871.  One  of  the  most  formidable  barricades,  and 
one  most  fiercely  defended  by  the  Communists  in  1871) 
was  near  the  rorte  St.  Martin.  On  the  Square  St. 
Jacques,  which  occupies  a  portion  of  the  site  of  the  old 
€h.  of  St.  Jacques  la  Boucherie,  is  a  beautiful  tower 
<1508-23),  160  ft.  high,  all  that  now  remains  of  the  old 
church;  statue  of  Pascal,  by  Cavelier,  in  a  crown  of  the 
arch.  Great  number  of  other  statues  on  the  monument. 
The  Square  Monge  contains  a  statue  of  Voltaire.  See 
in  the  Square  du  Temple  the  group  of  lime-trees  under 
which  Louis  XVI.  used  to  sit  when  he  was  a  prisoner. 
The  Conservatoire  des  Arts  et  Metiers,  opening  on  the 
Rue  St.  Martin,  has  a  magnificent  industrial  school. 
Collections  most  extensive  of  their  kind  in  Europe 
(open  10-4 ;  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  free;  Mon.,  Fri.,  Sat., 
1  fr.)  ;  articles  are  all  labelled,  See  "Refectory  of  the 
old  abbey.  The  handsome  Gothic  Hall  is  now  a  library, 
«0,000  vols,  (open  to  students,  10-3,  7.30-10  daily). 
The  Fontaim  de  VObservatoire  is  ornamented  with 
columns  bearing  vases,  and  statues  of  Morning,  Noon, 
Evening,  Night.  See  Fontaine  Cuvier,  in  the  Jardin 
des  Plantes ;  Fontaine  Gaillon,  in  the  Place  of  the  same 
name;  Fontaine  de  Grenelle,  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
city;  the  Fontaine  des  Innocents,  in  Square  of  same 
name;  Fontaine  Louis  le  Grand;  Fontaine  Moliere, 
entrance  to  the  Rue  Moliere;  Fontaine  Richelieu,  in  the 
Rue  de  Richelieu  ;  Fbntaine  Mtre  Dame  ;  Ibntaine 
'  St.  SiUpice  ;  and  the  Fontaine  de  la  Victoire. 

The  Pauages,  or  arcades,  of  Paris  should  not' 
escape  the  stranger's  attention.  Tlie  most  noticeable 
are  the  Passages  Jouffroy,  des  Panoramas,  de  VOpSra, 
des  Princes,  on  the  grand  boulevards;  the  Choiseul, 
Rue  des  Petits  Champs ;  Passage  Verdean,  a  continual. 


PARIS.  139 

tion  of  the  Joiuffroy  ;  Passage  du  Saumon,  in  the  Rue 
Montmartre;  Passage  Vivienne,  from  the  Rue  Vivienne; 
Passage  du  Havi'e,  from  the  Rue  Caumartin  to  the 
Rue  St.  Lazare.  Beware  of  beg^rs  and  people  wlio 
offer  their  services  in  these  arcades.  The  best  shop- 
ping streets  are  tlie  Rue  de  la  Paix,  Rue  de  la  Chaus- 
«eea*Antin,  Avenue  de  I'Opera,  Rue  Scribe,  Boulevard 
Haussmann,  Rue  des  Capucines,  Rue  Rojale,  Rue 
Auber,  Boulevard  St.  Gtermain,  and  all  the  grand 
boulevards.  The  shops  in  the  Avenue  de  TOpera  are 
usually  reasonable  in  their  prices,  but  those  of  the 
Bue  de  Rivoli  are  not 

Cemeteries.  —  There  are  14  within  the  walls.  The 
most  noticeable  is  Pere-la-Chalse.  Here  the  Com- 
munists made  their  last  stand,  and  from  the  hill-top 
bombarded  the  neigliborhood  of  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde. See  graves  and  tombs  here  of  Heloise  and 
Ab^lard;  Alfi*ed  de  Musset;  the  composers  Bellini, 
Gr^try,  Boieldieu,  Cherubini,  Rossini,  and  Chopin ;  of 
Bernardin  de  St.  Pierre,  Talma  the  ti*agedian,  Dupuy- 
tren,  Beaumarchais,  Manuel  and  Be  ranger  in  the  same 
tomb,  Benjamin  Constant,  Racine,  Moliere,  Lafontaine, 
Balzac,  Eugene  Delacroix,  Thiers,  Marshal  Ney ;  Cle- 
ment Thomas  and  Le  Comte,  the  first  victims  of  the 
Commune;  and  in  the  Jewish  Cemetery  (closed  on 
Sat.)  the  tombs  of  Rachel  and  the  Rothschilds.  See 
Prison  of  Jol  Roquette,  in  which  the  Archbishop  and 
other  hpstages  were  executed  by  the  Communists. 
The  Montmartre  Cemetery  has  the  graves  of  Hein- 
rich  Heine,  Cavaignac;  Halevy,  Th6ophile  Gautier, 
Gozlan,  Miii^r,  Horace  Vernet,  and  Troyon.  On  the 
Boulevard  Montrouge  is  the  Montpamasse  Cemetery. 
Visit  the  Ptopue  Cemetery,  Rue  Picpus,  where  are 
the  tombs  of  Lafayette  and  many  memoers  of  the  old 
French  nobility,  victims  of  the  Revolution.  See  at  end 
of  burial-ground  the  Cemetery  of  the  Guillotined,  wher 


186  h6tel  des  invalides. 

1,300  persons,  executed  at  the  Barriere  du  Trone,  are 
buried. 

FortificationB.  —  Paris  is  surrounded  with  ramparts 
(cost,  $28,000,000),  with  94  bastions,  and  21  M.  long. 
They  are  32  ft.  liigh,  with  parapet  19  ft.  wide,  moat 
48  It.  wide,  and  a  glacis.  Since  the  war  of  1870-71 
the  system  of  fortifications  has  been  greatly  enlarged. 
The  approaches  to  Paris  are  now  commanded  by  16 
detached  forts,  none  of  them  farther  than  2  M.  from  the 
city.  Mont  Valerien  is  the  most  imposing  and  pic- 
turesque. Those  near  St.  Denis  and  on  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Marne  and  Seine  are  best  worth  visiting. 

The  Hdtel  dea  Invalides  is  S.  of  the  Seine,  in 
the  S.  W.  portion  of  the  city,  and  easily  reached  from 
the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  '  It  was  founded  in  1670 
by  Louis  XIV.  for  the  veterans  of  the  army.  Tliere 
are  at  present  about  500  inmates,  although  the  build- 
ing was  intended  to  accommodate  5,000.  The  dome 
of  the  Ch.  of  the  Invalides,  which  can  be  seen  from  a 
long  distance,  was  gilded  in  the  time  of  Napoleon  I. 
The  fapade  of  the  great  edifice  is  660  ft.  long.  In 
front  of  the  wings  are  groups  in  bronze  by  Desjardins. 
Over  the  principal  entrance  stands  an  equestrian  figure 
of  Louis  XIV.  On  the  Esplanade  is  the  "  Triumphal 
Battery,"  used  in  firing  salutes  on  great  occasions. 
Most  of  the  guns  are  trophies.  See  the  Cour  d^Hon- 
neur,  painted  with  scenes  from  various  French  warlike 
epochs,  the  Refectories^  Library,  the  Salle  du  Oonseil, 
tie  Artillery  Mttsenm,  and  the  Ck.,  in  which  is  the 
Tomb  of  Napoleon  I.,  directly  beneath  the  dome 
(entrance  to  the  dome  Mon.,  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Fri., 
12-3,  free).  Above  the  entrance  to  the  crypt  are 
inscribed  the  words  from  \he  Emperor's  last  wiD; 
"I  desire  that  my  ashes  may  repose  on  the  banks 
«f  the  Seine,  among  that  Prench  people  I  have  so 


PARIS.  187 

Well  loved."  Note  the  bas-reliefs  by  Siim.jt;  colos- 
sal victories  by  Pradier;  the  sarcophagus,  which 
weighs  67  tons ;  the  decoration  of  tJie  tomb ;  and , 
the  monument  of  Vaubau  and  Turenne.  In  a  chapel 
on  the  'l.  is  the  tomb  of  Jerome  Bonaparte ;  on  the 
r.,  the  sarcophagus  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  once  King 
of  Spain.  The  Hotel  des  Invalides  is  shown  daily 
from  12-3,  except  Sun.  (small  fee).  Walk  hence  to 
the  Ecole  MilUaire,  founded  in  1751  by  Louis  XV. 
A  noble  building;  admission  by  special  order.  A 
great  number  of  executions  of  Communists  here. 

Operas  and-  Theatres.  —  The  majority  of  the 
Paris  theatres  are  closed  in  summer,  but  tourists  will  * 
wish  to  visit  the  Grand  Opera^  or  National  Academy 
of  Music,  and  the  Theatre  Frangais,  which  are  open 
tlie  year  round.  Tlie  new  Opera  House  was  built 
1861-74,  and  is  the  largest  theatre  in  the  world,  cov- 
ering nearly  3  acres,  but  seats  less  people  (2,156) 
than  La  Scala  or  San  Carlo  in  Italy.  The  fapade 
is  exceedingly  rich  in  statuary.  On  the  r.  notice 
the  celebrated  group  of  La  Dattse  by  Carpeaux.  The 
7  others  represent  music,  lyric  and  idyllic  poetry, 
declamation,  song,  drama,  and  lyric  di-ama.  Note  the 
medallions  and  busts  of  composers.  The  grand  stair- 
case of  white  marble,  with  balustrades  of  red  antique 
marble  and  hand-rails  of  Algerian  onyx,  is  the  finest 
in  Europe  (see  local  guides  for  description).  To  gen- 
tlemen we  recommend  the  Stalles  de  Parterre,  7  fr. ; 
to  families,  if  economy  be  an  object,  the  Troisiemes,  8  fr. 
Ladies  not  admitted  to  the  orchestra  stalls,  except 
occasionally  on  Sat.  The  Amphitheatre  is  the  choice 
part  of  the  house.  All  this  quarter  of  Paris  is  illumi- 
nated by  electricity.  At  the  other  end  of  the  Avenue 
de  rOpera  is  the  Th^fttre  Frangais,  the  rank  of 
which  is  well  known.    Founded  in  1600,  it  was  und" 


188  OPERAS  AND  THEATRES. 

Moliere's  superintendence  until  his  death.  The  lobby 
contains  statues  of  Voltaire,  George  Sand,  and  other 
celebrities  (good  seats  here,  7-10  fr.).  Paris  is  the 
home  of  genteel  comedy;  and  the  theatres  where  it 
can  be  best  seen  are  the  Frangais,  the  Faudeville,  and 
the  Gvmnase.  For  light  opera  go  to  the  Opera  Comique 
(good  seats,  7-12  fr.).  The  Odeon  ranks  next  to  the 
!Fran9ais,  and  there,  as  at  the  leading  theatre,  classical 
drama  is  often  produced.  For  opera  bouffe  go  to 
the  Renaissance,  the  Bouffes  Parisiem,  or  the  Folies 
Draniatiques.  The  VariHh  has  a  specialty  of  broad 
vaudevilles  and  comedies.  The  Palais  Royal  is  the 
recognized  temple  of  broad  comedy  and  of  those  light 
buflfboneries  played  nowhere  so  well  as  in  Paris.^  Tlie 
OaUe,  the  Ghatdet,  the  de  VEden,  theAmbigu^-Qmiqtte, 
and  the  Porte  St,  Martin  are  mainly  devoted  to  spec- 
tacles, fairy  pieces,  and  ballets.  For  other  theatres 
(too  numerous  too  mention  ;  Paris  has  more  than  50) 
see  daily  papers  or  the  English  papers.  There  are 
several  Circus  buildings,  and  an  immense  and  splendid 
Jlippodrome.  The  Conservatoire  du  Musigiie,  now  pre- 
sided over  by  Ambroise  Thomas,  is  in  the  Rue  du 
Faubourg  Poissonni^re.  Concerts  of  Lamoureaux 
and  Colonne  Sunday  afternoons  in  winter,  generally 
at  the  The&tre  du  Chfttelet  and  Champs  Elys^es  Cir- 
cus. BuUier,  the  students'  ball  in  the  Latin  Quarter, 
IS  open  all  summer.  Masked  balls  in  winter  only. 
Those  who  are  fond  of  horse-racing  can  see  plenty 
of  it^n  the  Bois,  at  Auteuil,  and  Longchamps,  and  at 
Chantilly  between  Feb.  and  July. 

The  Gobelins,  or  government  manufactory  of  tap- 
estry, 40  Avenue  des  Gobelins,  was  nearly  destroyed 
in  1871,  but  still  merits  a  visit.  The  reputation  of  the 
.Gobelins  tapestry  is  well  known.  Workshops  open  on 
Wed.  and  Sat.,  2-4;  catalogue,  J  fr.    The  National 


PARIS.  189 

PriniiMff-Qficey  the  Sorboune,  and  the  Cot  lege  de  France, 
not  far  from  the  Cluny  Museum ;  the  EcoU  de  MSdedne^ 
with  the  Musee  Bupuytren  and  that  of  Comparaiive 
AnatovMf  ;  lyceums  or  schools  in  various  quarters ;  Ar- 
chives, just  N.  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (visitors,  10-3) ;  the 
National  Iifbrary  (2,000,000  vols.)  in  the  Rue  de 
Richelieu  (see  local  guides)  ;  the  beautiful  St,  Genevieve 
Library  (120,000  vols,  and  35,000  MSS.),  Place  du 
Pantheon;  the  Hallos  Centrales,  vast  pavilions  cov- 
erinff  many  acres,  reached  from  the  Rue*  Montmartre  or 
Boulevard  S^bastopol,  should  be  visited  between  6 
and  8  a.  m.,  when  the  marketing  is  most  active.  The 
Bourse  de  GomTnerce,  in  the  Rue  du  Louvre,  replaces 
the  old  wheat  exchange  called  the  Halle  au  Ble.  The 
Halle  aux  Fins,  or  the  wine  depot  of  the  city,  is  next 
the  Jardin  des  Plantes ;  20  million  gallons  can  be  stored 
there.  The  Abattoirs,  or  slaughter-houses,  cover  67 
acres,  and  1,000  persons  are  employed  there. 

The  Hospitals  of  the  Hotel  Dieu ;  Beaujon,  Fau- 
boui^  St.  Honore ;  La  Chariie,  Rue  Jacob  ;  La  Pitie, 
Rue  Lacepede ;  Lariboisiere,  near  the  N.  Rly.  stat. ; 
St.  Louis,  Rue  Bichat ;  Du  Midi,  Rue  des  Capucines ; 
De  Lourcine,  street  of  same  name  ;  Des  Cliniqnes,  Place 
de  I'Ecole  de  Medecine ;  Des  Incurables,  at  Ivry,  —  may 
generally  be  visited  without  difficulty.  For  descrip- 
tions of  the  great  Asylums,  of  the  Mont  de  PiSte,  of 
the  Prisons  (historical  ones  mentioned  elsewhere),  and 
of  the  minor  military  establishments,  see  local  guides. 
An  excursion  through  the  Sewezs,  from  the  Bastille 
to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  in  boats  and  wagons,  may 
be  made  twice  a  month  in  summer.  The  Gataeomhs, 
which  contain  the  bones  of  most  of  the  victims  of  the 
Revolution,  and  of  nearly  6,000,000  of  other  dead,  may 
be  occasionally  visited  with  permission. 

Along  the  Seine.  ^ — A  good  idea  of  the  Seine, 


190  ALONG  THE  SEINE. 

and  tiie  buildings  along  its  banks,  may  be  had  by  walk- 
ing from  tLe  Quai  d^  Bercy  to  the  Quai  de  la  Mdgissene^ 
which  finishes  at  the  Pont  Neuf;  and  farther  along, 
the  QfUfis  du  Lottvre,  des  TmlerieSy  de  la  Conference,  and 
de  BUly,  to  Passy  and  Auteuil.  But  a  better  way  is 
to  take  a  steamer  from  Charenton  to  Auteuil,  then 
change  for  Suresnes.  Of  the  27  bridges  the 
most  noticeable  are  the  Pont  d'Austerlitz,  which 
has  5  stone  arches,  is  390  ft.  long,  and  has  the  names 
of  the  principal  ofBcers  killed  in  the  celebrated  battle 
inscribed  on  the  oniaments  of  the  bridge.  If  was  built 
in  1808,  and  rebuilt  in  1858.  The  Pont  Neuf  was 
begun  in  1578,  and  completed  in  1624.  Upon  it  stands 
an  equestrian  statue  of  Heniy  IV.  TLe  Fonl  des  Arts 
was  built  for  pedestrians  only.  The  Pont  du  Car- 
rousel has  4  colossal  stone  statues,  those  on  the  I.  bank 
representing  Abundance  and  Industry,  and  on  the  r. 
the  Seine  and  the  City  of  Paris.  The  Poni  Royal  was 
built  in  1668.  Just  below  is  the  pier  for  the  steam- 
ers which  run  to  St.  Cloud  and  Suresnes.  Farther 
down  the  Seine  are  the  Pont  de  SolferinOy  156  yards 
long,  with  the  names  of  the  principal  French  victories 
in  the  campaign  of  1859  inscribed  upon  the  cornices; 
the  Pont  de  la  Concorde,  opposite  the  Palais  Bourbon ; 
the  Pont  den  Invalided,  whicli  has  statues  representing 
victory  by  land  and  victory  by  sea;  the  Poni  deTJlma, 
with  statues  between  the  arches  representing  different 
types  of  French  soldiers ;  the  Poni  dTena,  built  1806- 
IH,  opposite  the  Champ  de  Mars,  with  colossal  statues 
of  men  and  horses ;  and  the  great  bridge  at  the  Point 
du  Jour,  or  Auteuil,  a  superb  viaduct,  570  ft.  long. 

Ttie  Quaia.  Conti,  Malaquaia,  and  VoltMre,  prin- 
cipally  occupied  by  sellers  of  second-hand  books ;  the 
wharves  at  Bercy,  laden  with  wood  and  wine  y  the  wine 
port,  near  the  Quai  St.  Bernard;  the  fruit  f^rl,  near 


VERSAILLES.  191 

the  Quai  de  la  Grfeve ;  and  the  Pont  de  Qrenelle,  where 
vast  aaantities  of  stone,  wood,  and  coal  are  disem- 
foarkea,  —  are  all  worth  notice.  In  summer  there  is 
no  better  way  of  seeing  a  great  portion  of  Paiis  than 
by  travelling  up  and  down  the  river  on  small  steamers. 
Bielow  Auteuil  the  Seine  makes  a  wide  sweep  round  to 
Bos  Meudon,  Boulogne^  and  along  the  banks  of  the  BoU 
de  Boulogne  to  Suresnes. 

Excursions  neax  Paris. 

Versailles  (Hotel  des  Reservoirs,  where  the  German 

Erinces  dwelt  during  the  siege  of  Paris)  is  reached  by 
alf-hourly  trains  from  St.  Lazare  or  Mont-Parnasse  stat. 
(114-12i  M.;  return-fares,  3  fr.  30  c.,  2fr.  70  c.);  or 
by  tramway  from  the  Louvre  (10  M.)  ;  or  by  carriage, 
through  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  the  Park  of  St.  Cloud, 
and  Ville  d'Avray.  Versailles  is  a  sleepy  old  town  of 
61,000  inhab.,  which  has  grown  up  around  the  palace 
that  Louis  XIV.  built  on  an  isolated  plateau  between 
low,  forest-covered  hills,  at  a  cost  of  $200,000,000. 
The  palace  overlooks  the  town.  See  Hotd  de  Ville  ; 
tlie  Palais  de  Justice;  the  Library  (60,000  vols.) ; 
the  Salle  du  Jeu  de  Paurae,  the  cradle  of  the 
French  Revolution;  the  Statue  of  Horace  Vernet ;  and 
the  Theatre i  restored  in  1850 ;  the  Plax:e  Hoche,  with 
the  statue  of  the  General ;  and  the  Cathedral  of  St, 
Louis.  The  courtyard  contains  many  statues,  among 
which  are  those  ot  Bayard,  Colbert,  Masseua,  and  Tu- 
renne,  and  an  equestrian  bronze  statue  of  Louis  XIV. 
In  1661  Louis  XIV.  formed  his  great  scheme  of  a 
place  and  park;  and  Levan  and  Mansard  erected  the 
ouildings,  while  Le  Notre  laid  out  and  decorated  the 
gardens.  The  palace  has  not  been  inhabited  since 
1789 ;  and  in  the  reign  of  Louis  Philippe  it  was  con- 


192  VERSAILLES. 

verted  into  a  museam,  deyoted,  as  the  insgriptioB 
shows,  "  To  all  the  Glories  of  France."  The  Chapel 
is  goigeoasly  decorated  (1696-1710).  The  Museam  is 
open  daily,  12-4  (except  Mon.).  The  entrance  is  at 
the  1.  in  the  Marble  Courtyard.  Notice  the  Jiarble 
Siaircitsey  leading  to  the  fii*st  story ;  and  tb  Qiteen*g 
Stinrca9€y  to  the  second.  The  Museum  is  vaf  %  and  its 
magnificent  halls  are  crowded  with  statueii  and  por- 
traits of  the  generals,  admirals,  and  sov»  r^jigus  of 
France,  and  with  hundreds  of  pictures  of  her  battles  in 
all  four  continents,  painted  by  Vernet,  Scheffer,  )elacroix, 
Begnault,  etc.,  forming  an  unrivalled  panorai  ta  of  mili- 
tary glory.  33  grand  battle-pictures  in  Uelerie  des 
BaiaiUes,  a  hall  396  X  52  ft.  in  area.  In  tie  i&r/A?  du 
Sacre  is  the  great  picture  of  the  "  Const-cration  of 
Napoleon,"  by  David ;  also,  Gros's  famouu  painting, 
"  The  Battle  of  Aboukir."  T^ie  Grande  Galerie  des- 
Glaces  is  the  most  notable  hall,  240  X  35  ft.  in  area, 
adorned  with  Le  Brun's  paintings  (1679-83),  and  over- 
looking the  gardens.  The  Bedroom  of  L^is  XIV., 
the  SaUe  des  Gardes,  the  King's  AntecAjrmber,  the 
Council  Hall,  the  SaUe  de  la  Guerre;  ajid,  on  the 
ground  floor,  the  Halls  of  the  Marshals,  of  the  Kings 
of  France  (67  portraits,  from  Clovis  to  Napoleon  III.), 
and  of  the  Royal  Residences,  —  are  espf>cially  worth 
visiting.  The  Sculpture  Galleries  are  ex..remely  inter- 
esting. In  the  Queen^s  Chamber  the  3  queens,  Marie 
Th^rese,  Marie  Leczinska,  and  Marie  Aiitoinette,  have 
lodged.  Catalogues,  giving  descriptioii  of  all  the  rooms, 
for  sale  at  palace.  Fine  view  of  the  Grand  Canal  and 
the  Basin  of  Apollo  from  the  steps  in  front  of  th« 
palace.  The  fountains  play  afternoons  on  Sun.  (gen. 
erally  announced  in  the  Paris  papers).  The  chief  cu- 
riosities of  the  gardens  are  the  Orangery  (1685);  th« 
Parterres  du  Midi  and  du  Nord ;  the  Piece  d'Eau  de* 


ST.  CLOUD.  193 

Suigses ;  the  Neptune  Fountain  ;  the  two  fountains  near 
the  Orangery  ;  the  Latona  Basin  ;  and  the  Grande  Al- 
lee  du  Tapis  Vert.  The  Grand  Canal  is  4,674  ft.  lonff, 
and  about  186  ft.  wide.  It  was  here  that  Ijouis  XIV. 
gave  his  Venetian  festivals,  famous  in  history.  The 
Grand  Trianon^  a  horseshoe-sliaped  villa,  built  by 
Louis  XIV.  for  Madame  Maintenon,  is  open  daily 
(12-4).  RicMy  furnished  rooms,  in  which  Bazaiiie 
was  tried.  The  gardens  of  the  Petit  Trianon  are  alsoi 
open  daily.  Notice  the  curious  display  of  old  state- 
coaches  used  by  the  sovereigns  of  France,  in  a  coach- 
bouse  near  the  Grand  Trianon.  When  the  Grandes 
Eaux  play,  rly.  tickets  from  Paris  cost  2  fr,  IJ  fr. 

St.  Cloud  (Restaurants :  BdmUre  ;  de  la  Gave)  is 
visited  from  St.  Lazare  (1  fr.  60  c,  1  fr.  lO.c.) ;  or  by 
steamer,  which  is  preferable  in  warm  weather.  From 
the  bridge  over  the  Seine  turn  to  the  1.,  and  walk 
through  the  Park  to  the  Great  Cascade.  Then  turn 
up  to  the  ruined  Palace  (built  in  1572),  mainly  de- 
stroyed by  French  shells,  thrown  into  the  wood  to  dis- 
lodge the  Germans.  This  was  a  favorite  residence  of 
Napoleon  III.  (One-horse  carriages  per  hr.,  3  fr.) 
Many  ruined  buildings  in  the  town,  remains  of  the 
conflagration  started  by  the  Grermans.  Beautiful  new 
ch.  in  the  12th-century  style,  with  a  lofty  stone  spire. 
New  Hotel  de  F'iile,  near  by.  Magnificent  outlook  over 
Paris  from  the  hill  above  the  stat.  The  Palace  was 
inhabited  by  most  of  the  French  sovereigns,  from  1785. 
The  rly.  from  Paris  to  Versailles  runs  through  the 
beautiful  park,  which  is  ornamented  with  statues,  foun- 
tains,  and  lakes.  See  the  Trocadero  Garden,  N.  of  the 
palace ;  the  Pavilion  de  Breteuil;  and  the  great  wat^r- 
jet,  to  the  1.  of  the  Cascade.  The  Park  of  Montretont, 
near  the  rly.,  was  the  scene  of  a  desperate  fight,  in 
the  sortie  made  by  the  French,  Jmi.  19,  1871,  in  whick 
they  lost  3,000  men.     Monument  here  to  the  slain. 


:'  1 94      SEVw,«:s.  —  st.  Germain.  —  rueil.      '^  J 

'  Sevres  is  easily  readied  from  St.  Cloud.  Here  is 
the  noted  porcelain  factory.  Exhibition  room  of  the 
Ceramic  Museum  open  daily,  12-5 ;  stransei's  admitted 
without  cards.  Tlie  Workshops  may  oe  inspected 
Mon.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  12-5  (get  cards  at  3  Rue  de 
Valois,  Paris).  Illy,  from  Paris  to  Bellevue,  5  min. 
walk  from  the  factory. 

8t  Oermain-en-Laye.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  excursions  near  Paris  (fares,  Ifr.  65  c.,  Ifr. 
35  c).  The  principal  sights  are  the  Pavilion  Henri 
Qmtre,  in  which  Louis  XIV.  was  bom,  and  Thiers 
died;  the  magnificent  Terrace  on  the  border  of  the 
forest  of  St.  Germain ;  and  the  gloomy  old  Chateau, 
where  James  II.  of  England  lived  after  the  Revolution 
of  1688.     In  the  Ch.  is  a  Mausoleum,  erect.ed  by  George 

,  IV.  to  the  memory  of  James.     The  forest  of  SL  Ger- 

'  iaiain,  one  of  the  largest  near  Paris  (9,000  acres),  b 
full  of  charming  walks,  and  a  day  or  two  may  well  be 
spent  in  this  lofty  and  healthy  old  town.  The  Museum 
of  National  Antiquities  is  in  the  chateau  (open  Sun., 
Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  11-5).  The  Terrace,  constructed 
by  Le  Notre  in  1672,  is  1^  M.  long,  with  superb  view, 
irom  St.  Germain  to  Versailles  is  a  pleasant  walk. 

!  Rueil  (fares,  95  c,  65  c.)  is  8i  M.  from  St.  Lazare 
stat.  In  its  Ch,  are  monuments  to  Entpress  Josephine 
and  Queen  Hortense.  Malnmison  (tramway  from  Rueil, 
2  M.)  was  the  favorite  home  of  Napoleon,  and  there 
Josephine  died  in  1814.  Not  far  away  is  the  Chateau 
of  Buzenvaly  near  which  the  artist,  Henri   Regnault» 

!  was  killed  in  the  fight  of  Jan.  19, 1871.  About  ^  M. 
from  Rueil  is  Bougival,  a  resort  of  celebrated  painters. 
See  the  Restaurant,  with  walls  decorated  with  land- 

I  scapes  by  Corot,  Eranpais,  etc.  Erom  thence  go  to 
Louveciennes,  a  lovely  village,  with  a  15th-century  ch. 

i^It  is  but  7-8  mm.  walk  thence  to  Foirins,    On  tho 


ST.  DENIS.  —  ENGHEEN.  195 

hill  is  Marly-le-Roi,  where  stood  a  beautiful  palace 
built  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  destroyed  during  the  Revo- 
lution. Victorien  Sardou  lives  here.  To  the  W.  is 
Monte  CristOi  in  which  Dumas  the  Elder  lived  so  long. 

St.  Denis  is  4  M.  from  Paris  (return-feires,  1  fr. 
30  c.,  85  c.,  70  c.).  Chapel  begun  here,  a.d.  275, 
in  honor  of  St.  Denis,  who  had  his  head  cut  off  on 
Montmartre,  and  who  is  said  to  have  taken  it  on  his 
arm  and  walked  off  across  the  fields.  Dagobert  built 
the  ch.,  which  was  the  nucleus  of  the  one  begun  by 
Pepin,  finished  by  Charlemagne  in  775,  and  demol- 
ished and  a  larger  one  built  on  its  ruins  400  years 
later.  During  the  Revolution  the  ch.  was  pillaged.  It 
was  restored  by  VioUet-le-Duc.  Beautiful  monuments 
and  statues  here.  Here  Charlemagne  was  anointed ; 
the  Oriflamme  was  kept ;  Abelard  dwelt ;  Joan  of  Arc 
hung  up  her  arms;  Henri  I.  abjured  Protestant- 
ism; and  Napoleon  I.  was  married  to  Marie  Louise. 
The  bones  of  the  Kings  of  France  from  Dagobert 
(630)  to  Louis  XV.  (1774)  were  buried  here;  and 
the  mad  Revolutionists  tore  them  from  their  tombs, 
and  buried  them  in  a  common  ditch.  They  are  now 
in  the  crypt,  and  the  superb  royal  monuments  adorn 
the  ch.,  whose  interior  is  354  ft.  lonjj  and  129  ft. 
wide,  lighted  by  splendid  stained  windows,  and  en- 
riched witli  mosaics  and  statuary. 

Enghien  and  Montmorency  are  on  the  N.  Rly. 
Enghien  is  noted  for  sulphur  baths;  and  dXMonU 
morency  is  the  Hermitage  which  Rousseau  inhabited, 
and  where  he  began  La  Nouvelle  Helo'ue,  Robespierre 
and  Gr^try  also  lived  here.  —  Ghantilly  and  Compihgne 
(fares  to  Chantilly,  5  fr.  5  c,  3  fr.  75  c,  2  fr.  80  c. ;  to 
Oompiegne,  10  fr.  30  c,  7  fr.  35  c,  3  fr.  65  c).  Chan- 
tilly was  the  Versailles  of  the  Princes  of  Conde,  and 
was  beautified  by  them  from  the  13th  century  until  t' 


1 96         COMPIEGNE.  —  FONTAINEBLEAU. 

Eevolution.  It  has  2  fine  chateaux  (desedbed  bj 
Madame  de  Sevigne),  and  a  famous  forest  of  10  square 
M.  Spring  and  autumn  races  here.  Compiegne  has 
always  been  a  royal  residence.  Napoleon  1.  was  fond 
of  it,  and  Napoleon  III.  entertained  there  with  great 
magnificence.  The  Galerie  des  Fetes  is  superb.  The 
Library  was  the  favorite  work-place  of  Napoleon  III. 
The  Oompiegne  Forest  is  59  M.  around.  From  Com- 
piegne to  Pierrefondfl,  excursion  by  omnibus  through 
the  forest,  9  M.  Grand  feudal  fortress,  built  in  IdsOO, 
and  restored  by  VioUet-le-Duc,  with  8  huge  towers  and 
a  donjon,  on  a  rocky  height  over  Pierrefonds.  Hotel 
des  Ruines,  near  by.  Erxnenonyille  (return-tickets, 
7  fr.  90  c,  5  fr.  90  c,  4  fr.  95  c. ;  Le  Bourget,  where 
there  were  many  fights  in  1870-71,  is  on  this  route) 
is  the  beautilul  retreat  where  Rousseau  died,  in  1778. 
Celebrated  Park  just  beyond,  at  Mortefontaine. — 
Trains  run  to  Fontainebleau  (Hotel  de  France  et 
d^Angleterrc ;  Be  la  Ville  de  Lyon;  De  Londres ;  De 
r Europe)  from  the  Gare  de  Lyons  (return-tickets,  9  fr., 
6  fr.  80  c,  4  fr.  95  c).  On  the  road  is  CharentoUy  with 
its  celebrated  lunatic  asylum  and  fortress ;  Alfort, 
where  there  is  a  horse  and  dog  hospital ;  Montmesl^ 
and  Melun,  with  two  handsome  old  ens.  and  a  Gothic 
town-hall.  Prom  stat.,  omnibus  (IJM. ;  30-50  c.^  to 
the  Chateau  (open  daily,  12-4).  This  stately  palace 
was  built  by  Francis  I.,  on  the  site  of  Louis  Yll.'s 
castle ;  and  here  Conde  died,  the  Edict  of  Nantes  was 
revoked,  Louis  XIII.  was  born,  Josephine  was  di- 
vorced. Napoleon  signed  his  abdication,  Pius  VII. 
was  imprisoned,  ana  Napoleon  III.  was  baptized. 
It  is  crowded  with  rich  frescos  and  paintings,  Gobe- 
lins tapestries,  and  antique  furnishings.  See  the  bou- 
doir of  Marie  Antoinette,  the  bedrooms  of  Anne  of 
Austria  and  Catherine  de  Medicis,  and  the  splendid 


8CEAUX.  —  MEUDON.  —  ORLEANS.        1 97 

bHile  des  Fetes.  This  was  a  favorite  abode  of  the 
.Empress  Eugenie  and  her  son.  The  Forest,  dear  to 
artists,  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world, 
must  be  seen.  It  is  50  M.  around,  with  many  fine 
gorges,  crags,  and  heaths,  and  has  12,400  M.  of  roads  ' 
and  pathways.  On  the  borders  are  many  charming 
villages  inhabited  mainly  by  artists ;  and  the  lovers  of 
Millet  will  visit  Barbizon. 

Boeaux  (return-fares,  2  fr.  20  c.,  1  fr.  40  c.,  1  fr.  10  c.) 
is  a  beautiful  hill-town,  with  a  delicious  Park  and 
the  Ghdteau  where  Colbert  once  lived  and  Voltaire 
wrote  several  of  his  famous  tragedies.  CShatUlon 
was  the  scene  of  many  combats  during  the  siege. 

Moudon  is  reached  from  the  Tuileries  by  boat 
every  15  minutes.  In  the  Ch&teau,  built  in  1695  and 
burned  by  the  Germans  in  1871,  the  Empress  Marie 
Louise  find  Prince  Napoleon  lived.  This  was  also  the 
parish  of  Rabelais.  Fine  view  from  Terrace  (where 
the  Pmssians  had  a  26-gun  battery) ;  noble  trees.  The 
walk  through  Meudon  to  Versailles  is  charming. 

To  Orleans,  Blots,  and  Tours  (fares  to  Tours,  28  fr. 
80  c.,  21  fr.  60  c,  15  fr.  80  c. ;  145i  M.).  Orleans 
{Hotel  d^  Orleans  ;  Be  Loiret),  founded  by  the  Romans, 
on  the  Loire,  contains  a  noble  Flamboyant  ^^atkedral, 
the  only  Gothic  cathedral  built  in  Europe  since  the 
Middle  Ages.  It  has  a  grand  interior,  with  double 
aisles ;  and  2  towers,  each  280  ft.  hi^h.  See  the 
statue  of  Jeanne  d*Arc  made  by  the  Princess  Marie, 
the  local  Museum,  and  the  fine  and  curious  old  Mairie. 
Orleans  was  the  capital  of  the  first  Kingdom  of  Bur- 
gundy. The  forest  of  Orleans  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  th^  country.  The  Germans  took  the  city  in  1870. 
BloUi  (Hotel  d'Afwleterre)  has  a  stately  old  CastUty 
for  centuries  a  residence  of  kings  and  queens.  Fine 
M^  houses  in  the  town.     12  M.  (2  hi*s.)  hence,  bv 


198  AMBOISE.  —  TOURS.  —  DIJON. 

omuibus,  is  Uie  ^rand,  many-towered,  and  liistorio 
Castie  of  Ghmmbord,  built  by  Francis  I.  and  still 
in  the  Bourbon  CRmiW.  From  Omzain  stat.  it  is 
i  M.  to  the  Cliateau  de  Ghamnoiitp  a  hi^h-towered 
hill-fortress,  nrhere  Catherine  de  Medicis  lived;  Car- 
dinal d'Aniboise  was  bom ;  the  Prince  de  Cond6  was 
iin prisoned ;  and  Voltaire  wrote  La  Pucelle.  11  M. 
beyond  is  Amboise,  M'itlt  its  famous  Castle,  perched 
on  a  lofty  crag,  and  dating  from  1470.  In  the  gardens 
is  an  exquisite  Gothic  chapel,  with  marvellous  stone- 
carvinff.  10  M.  S.  is  the  castle  of  Chenonceaux, 
built  oy  Francis  I.,  inhabited  by  Diana  de  Poi- 
tiers and  Louise  of  Lorraine,  and  the  favorite  resort 
of  Voltaire,  Rousseau,  Bolingbroke,  etc.  It  is  still-  in 
])erfect  order,  and  elegantly  furnished.  At  Tours 
i^Hotel  de  VUnivers,  near  the  stat.),  in  Touraine,  on  the 
Loire,  the  best  French  is  spoken.  See  Grothic  Cathe- 
dral, founded  in  1170 ;  Episcopal  Palace;  many  &roous 
schools ;  a  Museum  with  200  paintings  ;  a  fine  Piiblic 
Library;  and  two  ancient  towers  (relics  of  the  old 
Cathedral),  beneath  one  of  whicli  the  wife  of  Charle- 
magne was  buried.  Many  American  and  English 
families  reside  here.  See  Plessis  les  Tours,  the  home, 
of  Louis  XI. 

For  other  excursions  from  Paris  see  local  guides. 

Boutes  from  Paris  to  Switzerland. 

Our  itinerary  leads  te  Germany,  before  entering  Swit- 
zerland. 

From  Paris  to  Geneva,  by  Dijon  and  Macon.  —  In  11 
brs.,  by  express  train  (distance,  388^  M. ;  fares,  76  fr. 
75  c. ,  47  f  r.  80  c. ,  80  f  r.  85  c. ).  Many  stop  at  Macon  orer 
night.  Dijon(2fi^^«2  du  Jura,  near  the  sta.  de  la  Cloche, 
Boargogne),  60,000 inliab.,  is  in  the  wine-growing  dia- 


MACON.  —  BELFORT.  r—  RHEIMS.     1 9^ 

trict.  See  the  Palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy,  now 
a  town-hall,  with  very  interesting  museum ;  the  Castle, 
built  by  Louis  XI. ;  the  Bur^undian-Golhic  Ch.  of  Notre 
Davie  (built  1220-30),  with  a  curious  clock.  Macon 
{Hotel  de  V Europe)  is  an  important  rly.  junction  (good 
buffet).  Fine  views  of  the  Jura  Mts.  from  the  train. 
At  Amberieu  you  begin  to  climb  the  mts.  Junction  at 
Culoz  for  Aix-les-BainSy  Chamhery,  and  Turin.  Near 
here  some  fine  viaducts,  and  the  Fort  de  VEclusey  the 
key  to  the  Rhone  valley.  From  this  point  you  traverse 
a  picturesque  mt.  country  to  Geneva. 

From  Paris  to  Switzerland^  via  Pontarlier  (fares 
from  Paris  to  Berne,  68  fr.  15  c,  50fr.  85  c./ 37fr. 
25  c).  Same  route  as  previoijs  one  to  Dijon.  From 
Pontarlier  the  route  leads  up  through  the  mts.  to  Berne ; 
the  scenery  is  wildly  beautiful.  A  branch  leads  from 
Pontarlier  to  Lausanne  (fares  from  Paris,  67  fr.,  47  fr. 
SOc,  35fr.). 

From  Paris  to  Basle,  hyTroyes,  Chaumont,  Fesoul,  and 
Belfort,  the  fortress  which  made  a  heroic  resistance  in 
1870,  and  thence  either  through  Alsace,  touching  at 
MulhouBe,  or  by  Delle  to  Basle. 

From  Paris  to  Basle,  via  ifamey,  Stra^bourff,  and 
Mulhouse  (fare,  75  fr.  60  c).     The  interesting  towns  on 
this  route  are  Meaux  (HM  des  3  Bm$),  25  M.  from 
Paris,  in  a  lovely  situation  on  the  Marne.     Superb 
Gothic  Cathedral  of  St.  Etienne,  with  Monuments  of 
Bossnet  (who  was  Bishop  of  Meaux)  and  Philip  of 
CastiUe.     Chateau  Thierry  was  the  birthplace  of  La- 
fontaine.    From  Epernay  branch  (fare,  3f r.  70  c.)  to 
WieixxiB(H6tel  Lion  <?'  Or;  Ordnd;  Commerce),^  city  of 
98,000  inhab.    In  its  cathedral  the  kings  of  France 
have  been  crowned.  See  magnificent  Gothic  Al^>ei/  Ch. 
of  St.  Bemi,  founded  by  Clovis  in  the  6th  century;  and 
the  Cathedral,  built  1212-1430,  and  one  of  the  grandest 


200  SEDAN.  —  TOUL.  —  NANCY.  —  THE  VOSGiH. 

in  Europe.  It  is  466  ft.  long  and  134  ft.  bigh ;  filled 
with  beautiful  statues  and  monuments.  Splendid  rose- 
irindows  and  interesting  Treasui^.  Chanes  VII.  was 
tjrowned  here  ;  Joan  of  Arc  standing  by  his  side.  The 
Hotel  de  ViUe  contains  a  fine  public  library.  Rly.  to 
Bedan  {Hotel  de  la  Croix  d'Or),  where  MacMahon's 
army  of  80,000  men  surrendered. 

Beyond  Epemay  on  the  main  line  is  Chftloiui-siir- 
Ifarne;  and  Bar-le-Duc  (JJoteldu  Cygne).     Statues 
of  Marshal  Oudinot  and  Gen.  Excelmans ;  monument  of 
the  Prince  of  Orange.     Toul,  on  the  Moselle,  is  a  for- 
tress which  was  besieged  in  1870.    Nancy  (Hotel  de 
France;  Parti;  Anffleterre),  the  old  capital  of  Lor- 
raine, and  the  prettiest  town  in  France,  with  a  large 
GatfiedrcU,  an  interestinff  Museum  (in  the  Hdtel  de 
Ville),  a  splendid  new  Prefecture,  and  a  fine  speci- 
men of  Flamboyant  Gk)thic  in  the  Palace  of  the  Dukee 
of  Lorraine.    Notre  Dame  de  Bon-Secows  contains 
the  Tomb  of  Stanislas,  ex-King  of  Poland,  who  lived 
in  Nancy  after  abdicating  his  throne  in  1735.    See 
triumphal  arch  ;    two  fountains  ;    and  Statues  of 
Thiers,   GaUot,  Drouot,  and  Stanislas.     Near  the 
gate  of  St.  Jean  is  the  Cross  of  the  Duke  of  Bur- 
gundy,  close  to  which  was   found   the   body   of 
Charles  the  Bold,  after  the  celebrated  battle  (1477). 
Beyond  Nancy  you  pass  through  the  Vosges  Mts. 
and  down  to  Strasbourig^ 


ST.  QUENTIN.  —  MONS.  —  VALENCIENNES.   201 


BELGIUM. 

WE  now  invite  your  attention  to  the  route  from 
Paris  to  Brussels  and  other  sections  of  Belnum, 
our  advice  being  that  it  is  well  to  see  portions  of  Bel- 
gium, Holland,  and  Grermany  before  visiting  Switzerland 
and  Italy. 

The  most  direct  route  from  Paris  to  Brussels  is 
from  the  Gare  du  Nord,  via  Terqnier^  Maubeuge,  and 
Mom  (time,  6^  hrs. ;  fares,-  36t*r.  20  c.,  27  fr.  30  c., 
18  fr.  90  0.) .  You  pass  through  St.  Denis ;  Chantilly ; 
Creil ;  Compiegne  ;  St.  Qnjentin,  an  important  manu- 
facturing centre,  with  a  noble  eh.  as  well  as  a  magnifi- 
cent City  Hall  of  the  14th  and  15tli  centuries ;  through 
the  valley  of  the  Sambre  to  Maubewge  and  thence  to 
Feignies,  the  Frencli  frontier.  Mons  {Hotel  Couronne) 
had  a  castle  built  by  Julius  Caesar.  It  is  the  centre 
of  a  great  coal-mining  country.  Splendid  interior  of 
the  Cathedral  of  St.  Waudru  (1450-1589)  and  Hotel 
de  rule  (1458).  Belfry  built  in  1662  by  the  Spaniards. 
At  Malflaquet,  3  M.  S.  E.,  Marlborough  defeated  the 
French  m  1700,  and  lost  20,000  men.  Between  Mons 
and  Brussels  is  Hal,  with  the  elegant  14th-century  Notre 
Dame,  still  a  place  for  pious  pilgrimages.  Before  reach- 
ing Brussels  you  can  see  Ste.  Gudule*s  towers. 

Another  route  from  Paris  to  Brussels  traverses 
Amiens,  Arras,  Douai,  and  Mons  (fares,  39  fr.  25  c, 
29  fr.  46  c,  20  fr.  55  c).  Douai  {Hotel  d^  Flandre)  is 
an  important  plcwe  de  gtterre,  and  has  an  interesting  mu- 
seum and  town-hall.  Valenciennea  is  also  a  strong 
old  fortress  and  a  great  manufacturing  town.  Here 
is  a  statue  of  Froissart,  the  chronicler,  oorn  in  Valen- 
ciennes.    From  thence  to  Mons  you  pass  through  a 


202  iuILLE.  —  NAMUR.  —  LIEGE. 

fertile  and  populous  country,  by  JmnnrnpeSy  where  the 
French  won  a  great  victory  over  the  Austrians  in 
1792. 

There  is  also  a  direct  route  from  Paris  to  Ghent  by 
Lille,  Roubaix,  and  Courtrai  (9  hrs. ;  fares,  37  fr.  70  c, 
28  fr.  25  c).  Ldlle  {Hotel  de  V Europe),  a  manufactur- 
ing town  of  188,000  inhab.,  is  a  first-class  fortress  on 
the  river  Deule.  8t.  Cathetine^s  Ch,  has  an  altar-piece 
by  Rubens.  In  the  Wicar  Museum  is  a  precious  col- 
lection of  drawings  by  the  Italian  masters.  In  the 
great  square  is  a  column  commemorative  of  the  Aus- 
trian siege  of  1792.  Statue  of  Gen.  Negrier,  killed  at 
Paris  in  1848.  Roubaix,  5  M.  beyond,  is  a  great 
woollen  and  cotton  working  town  of  83,000  inhab. ; 
production  $40,000,000  yearly.  Tourcoing,  the  French 
frontier,  is  a  factory -town. 

From  London  one  may  go  via  Calais  to  Brussels 
by  Lille  and  Toumai  (fares  from  Calais,  21  fr.  30  e,, 
16  fr.  95  c,  11  fr.  40  c).  Leaving  London  at  8.05  p.m. 
you  reach  Brussels  at  6  a.m.  (fares,  £2  lis.,  £1 18  s.) 

From  Paris  to  Liege,  cia  Charleroiy  is  228^  M.  (ex- 
press in  8  hrs.;  fares,  42  fr.  40c.,  31  fr.  90c.,  21  fr. 
35  c).  This  is  also  the  route  from  Paris  to  Cologne 
(fares  from  Paris,  59  fr.  35  c,  H  fr.  20  c).  Charle- 
roi  is  a  modem  town,  an  industrial  centre  of  Belgium. 
The  environs  are  fine.  46,000  workmen  employed  in 
coal-mining.  The  line  crosses  the  Sambre  13  times 
on  the  way  to  Namur,  a  pretty  Flemish  fortified  town, 
of  Roman  origin,  with  a  vast  old  citadel,  on  the  Meuse. 
It  has  several  spacious  squares,  and  a  Renaissance 
Cathedral,  Namur  has  sustained  several  celebrated 
sieges,  —  among  others  that  of  1692,  pommanded  by 
Louis  XIV.  in  person.  Archaological  Museum  worth 
visiting.     From  J>Jamur  you  may  go  to  Luxembourg. 

Id^ge  (Hotel  d' Angleterre;  de  V  ITnivers;  OhenUn  de 


BELGIUM.  20S 

F&r;  2>tf  5t^<?e), theFlemish  Laick  and  German  LUttich, 
has  140,000  inhab.,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  Meuse.  See  Quentin  Durward  for  a  recital  of  the 
striking  events  in  its  history.  This  town,  **  the  Shef- 
field of  Belgium,"  is  noted  for  its  weapon-factories, 
and  one  quarter  is  given  up  to  workshops.  The  Chs.. 
of  St.  Jacques,  St  Paul,  St.  Martin,  St.  Croix  (10th 
century),  St.  Bartkelemy,  as  well  as  the  Cathedral  St, 
Paul,  should  be  seen.  The  CAotr  of  the  cathedral 
dates  frora  the  13th  century.  The  splendid  Gothic 
Palais  de  Justice  (described  in  Quenfin  Burward)  was 
the  palace  of  the  prince-bishojjs,  built  in  1508-40  hf 
Cardinal  de  la  Marck,  a  relative  of  the  "  Wild  Bom* 
of  the  Ardennes."  See  Archaeological  Museum  ;  Hotel 
deVille;  University  (library,  100,000  vols.) ;  the  Qmi- 
munal Museum;  the  Citadel,  with  grand  views;  the^ojro/ 
Cannon-foundry.  Liege  is  the  capital  of  the  Walloons, 
and  the  environs  have  beautiful  scenery. 

The  rout€  to  Cologne  traverses  a  picturesque  region 
to  Verviers  (15  J  M.),  a  modern  city  or  woollen-factories ; 
Uience  to  Aix-ia-Chapelle.  From  Liege  you  may  visit 
Spa.  On  the  way  is  Chaudfontaine  {Hotel  des  Bains; 
D^ Anpleterre),  a  famous  watering-place.  The  waters 
(used  in  baths)  are  beneficial  in  nervous  diseases.  8  M. 
beyond  is  Pepinsier,  whence  runs  a  branch  line  (i  hr.) 
to  Spa  (Hotel  de  Flandre  ;  lb' Orange  ;  Be  York  ;  Des 
Pays  Bas;  Grand  Hotel  Britanniqt$e ;  Casino,  Rue 
Royale),  one  of  the  oldest  of  European  watering-places. 
The  cumate  b  remarkably  fine,  although  exposed  to 
sudden  variations,  dangerous  for  consumptives.  The 
waters  are  tonic  (iron).  3-4  glasses  should  be  takeu 
daily,  and  the  cure  demands  6-8  weeks.  Season,  l^j 
16-Oct.  15.  30,000  visitors  eOme  here  annually.  The 
viUage  (6,000  inhab.)  is  in  a  pretty  glen,  among  wooded 
hills  and  scenery  famous  for  beauty. 


204  LUXEMBOURG.  —  BRUSSELS. 

From  Namur  you  may  go  to  Luxembourg  and  Treves, 
aud  tlience  make  a  deliglitful  excursiou  down  the  Mo- 
selle by  steamboat  to  Cobleiice.  You  may  also  go  from 
Liege  (109}  M.  iu  5-6  hrs.)  to  Luxembourg. 

latucembourg,  the  famous  fortress,  the  capital  of  the 

fraud  duchy,  was  made  a  neutral  state  by  the  Treaty  of 
K)ndon  in  1867.  It  is  very  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  rocky  plateau,  with  precipices  on  3  sides.  The 
Alzette  valley  is  divided  by  a  fprtified  rock  called  the 
Bock,  on  which  is  the  ancient  Melmina  Tower,  See 
Cathedral,  Hotel  de  Fille,  Archaological  Museum. 
Bljs.  hence  to  Treves  or  Metz,  by  ThionmOe. 

Brussels  and  Environs. 

Brussels  {Hdtd  BdUvue ;  De  Fkmdre  ;  Grand ; 
De  France;  De  V Europe;  MengeUe ;  HoUande;  De 
8axe;  de  VEm/pereur),  the  capital  of  Belgium,  has 
{including  suburbs)  475,000  inhab.  To  appreciate 
Brussels,  read  the  histories  of  the  old  town, — 
the  terrible  period  of  the  Spanish  domination,  the 
riots  and  bombardments  in  the  17th  century,  the 
annexation  to  France,  and  the  union  with  and  seces- 
sion from  the  Low  Conntries.  Brussels  stands  on 
an  undulating  plain.  It  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Towns.  On  the  hill  are  the  palaces,  the  Park, 
and  the  iine  Rue  Boyale,  Below,  in  the  picturesque 
older  portion,  are  the  commercial  classes.  Brussels 
is  on  the  line  between  the  Walloons  and  Flemings ; 
and  you  will  hear  French  and  Flemish  spoken,  the 
former  prevailing.  Go  first  to  the  Grande  Place,  the 
ancient  forum  ol  Brussels.  Note  the  exquisite  fa9ade 
of  the  Hotel  d^  ViUe  (built  1402-43),  and  the  stately 
spire,  370  ft.  high,  at  whose  top  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  St.-  Michael.  Entrance  fee,  50  c.  Beautiful  tapes- 
tries and  paintings  in  the  Salle  d^s  Fetes,  etc.    Opposite 


BELGIUM.  205 

is  the  Mfmon  ,/«  Rot,  built  by  Charles  V.  (1514-25). 
Tliere  were  imprisoned  Counts  Egmont  and  Hoome,  and 
in  front  they  were  decapitated,  in  1568.  Many  of  tli6 
picturesque  bouses  on  the  Place  were  built  by  the 
Guilds,  as  meeting-places.  Touniaments  were  held 
here  in  the  15th  ceutuiy.  The  famous  Mannikin  foun- 
tain is  back  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  The  GalMe  St,  Hu- 
bert is  one  of  the  finest  arcades  in  Europe.  In  the  st«ep 
Rue  Montague  de  la  Cour  are  the  finest  shops.  At  the 
top  is  the  JBl-a^ie  Royah.  Go  first  to  the  Mntteum  (Place 
du  Musee).  On  the  1.  is  the  great  Palais  de  F Indus- 
trie,  with  statue  of  Prince  Charles  of  Lorraine.  The 
Museum  of  Paintiuff  (open  10-5  in  summer)  contains 
13  canvases  by  Rubens ;  many  Van  Dycks,  Holbeins, 
and  Rembrandts.  The  Anciint  Museum  is  rich  in  tap- 
estries. In  the  Modern  Mmeum  there  are  many  good 
pictures.  Next  take  the  Rue  de  la  Regence,  eiuiing 
at  the  new  Palais  de  JusHce^  which  covers  more  ground 
than  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  cost  $8,400,000.  Vast 
dome.  Near  by  is  the  Palais  des  Beaux^ArtSy  with 
fine  statues  and  groups ;  the  Palace  of  the  ConUe  de 
Flandres  ;  the  Place  du  Petit  Sablon,  with  monuments  \o 
Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorne ;  the  Roifal  Oonjtereatory 
of  Music ;  and  the  Syiwffogne.  Next,  going  by  the 
Rue  Royale,  visit  the  Park,  a  lovely  nromenade  (mili- 
tary  music,  3-4^,  in  summer) ;  then  to  the  Kinfs  Palace, 
—  simple,  but  well  stocked  with  fine  pictures.  When 
the  flag  is  up,  the  King  is  there.  Wlien  he  is  not, 
strangers  are  admitted  (2  fr.)  Ministries  in  elegant 
buildings  near  the  Park.  The  Palais  de$  Acade- 
mies is  near  the  Park.  This  building,  in  Italian  style, 
contaios  the  Plaster  Museum  (free,  1(M) :  the  Ajcade- 
mies  of  letters,  arts  and  sciences,  and  medicine  ;  and 


206  STK  GUDULE.  —  WATERLOO. 

a  noble  concert  liall,  with  paintings  of  episodes  in 
Belgian  history. 

8te.  Gudiiie,  tiie  great  Gothic  Church  (open,  e^- 
cept  from  12-4,  week  days :  to  climb  the  towers,  1  per- 
son, 2  fr. ;  2-6  persons,  3  fr.),  was  founded  in  tlie  11th 
centary ;  choir  and  transept,  13th  century ;  towers  and 
nave,  14th.  The  carved  pulpit,  made  in  1699,  repre- 
sents the  Expulsion  from  Paradise.  Superb  stained- 
glass  windows ;  and  many  rare  old  tombs. 

Other  Objects  of  Interest.  —  Place  des  Martyrs,  with 
monument  to  those  who  perished  in  the  B>evolutaon  of 
]830;  Place  des  Barricades,  and  statue  of  Vesalius, 
the  anatomist ;  Place  du  Luxembaurff,  statue  of  Cocke- 
rill ;  Place  de  la  Monnaie,  and  Opera  House ;  Bourse  ; 
Rue  Neuve;  handsome  new  boulevards  around  the  old 
city ;  Observatory ;  hospitals ;  National  Bank ;  Musee 
Wiertz  (fantastic  compositions  of  a  Beldan  painter) ; 
Museum  of  Antiquities,  and  Porte  de  Iffal ;  precious 
paintings  in  Aremberg  Palace ;  Botanical  Garden  ; 
Bois  de  la  Cambre,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  of  Brussels. 

At  Laeken,  2  M.  N.,  is  the  Ch.  of  S^*.  Marie,  where 
members  of  the  royal  family  are  buried.  In  the  cem- 
etery, grave  and  statue  of  Malibran.  —  Royal  Palace, 
the  King's  favorite  residence.  Monument  to  Leo- 
pold I.  —  Manor  of  Bonchout,  where  dwells  Carlotta^ 
BX-Empress  of  Mexico. 

'Waterloo  may  be  reached  by  rly.  to  Braine  I'Al- 
tend,  and  walk  (^  hr.)  to  the  Butte  du  Liou,  or  to 
Waterloo,  and  go  over  to  the  battle-field  by  omnibus ; 
or  yon  can  go  by  mail-coach  from  the  Place  Rcyakt  at 
9.30  a.m.  (round-trip,  7fr. ;  coachman,  1  fr.).  Guides, 
Belgian  and  English;  on  the  field  (fees,  2-4  fr.).  Water- 
loo is  a  Flemish  village.  Tlie  Mt.  St.  Jean  and  the 
Butte  du  Lion,  on  which  is  a  pyramid  and  a  colossal 

n,  should  be  yisited.    Museum  at  Hotel  dn  Musee, 


BELGIUM.  207 

Louvain  {Hotel  de  Suede;  Du  Norcf),  population 
35,000,  may  be  visited  from  Brussels  in  1  hr.  (fares, 
2  fr.  30  c,  1  fr.  75  c,  1  fr.  15  c).  This  was  one  of 
the  great  weaving-centres ;  but  after  1383  the  wearers 
went  to  England.  The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  one  of  the 
marvels  of  Belgium.  This  jewel  of  Gothic  art  was 
built  1448-63.  Exterior  lavishly  decorated  with  stat- 
ues. The  great  Gothic  Ch.  of  St.  Pierre  (open, 
except  2-4)  has  a  fine  tabernacle  and  many  remark- 
able paintings.  Les  Holies,  built  1317,  and  the  vast 
prison,  should  be  seen.  The  University,  founded  in 
1426,  is  Roman  Catholic,  and  has  1,000  students 
(formerly  6,000). 

Ghent,  Bruges,  Ant:werp,  etc. 

You  may  visit  Ghent  and  Bruges  from  Antwerp  or.  Brus- 
sels ;  or,  if  you  come  directly  from  England  to  Ostend, 
you  can  go  through  Bruges  and  Ghent  to  Brussels.  Fares. 
Dover  to  Ostend,  15  s.,  10  s.;  68  M.;  time,  4-6  hrs. 
Fares,  Ostend  to  Brussels,  9  fr.  30  c,  6  fr.  95  c,  4  fr.  65  c. 

Ostend  {Continental;  de  la  Plage;  de  VOeSam;  VU- 
toHa;  Lion  d^Or)  is  the  second  maritime  town  in 
Belgium  (20,000  inh.)  and  the  summer  residence  of 
the  king.  It  receives  about  18,000  visitors  annually. 
Renowned  sea-baths  ;  magnificent  stone  dyke,  ^  M. 
long;  monumental  Cursaal;  Leopold  Park,  filled  with 
cafes.  Celebrated  oyster-parks  here.  From  Ostend 
it  is  14  M.  (fares,  1  fr.  75  c.  1  fr.  35  c,  90  c.)  to 

Bruges  {HoteH  de  Flandre;  de  V  Univers;  Du  Com- 
Tnerce;  St.  Amand),  45,000  inh.,  on  tlie  grand  canals 
to  Ostend,  Ghent,  and  Sluys.  It  is.  like  Amsterdam, 
called  Uie ' '  Venice  of  the  N  orth , "  because  seamed  with 
canals.  Handsome  rly.  stat.  Guides,  1-3  fr.  The 
13th  century  was  the  epoch  of  Bruges'  greatest  pros* 


208  BRUGES. 

perity.  It  was  the  centre  of  the  ti-ade  of  the  Hanseatic 
Lea^e,  and  the  chief  commercial  city  of  Europe.  Its 
dechne  dates  from  1545.  In  the  Grand  Place  is  the 
Fleur  de  Ble  Inn  of  wh ich  Longfellow  sings.  There  also 
stood  the  house  in  which  Maximilian  was  confined  in 
the  revolt  of  1488 ;  and  opposite  is  the  home  of  Charles 
II.  of  England,  in  his  exile.  The  Cathedral  (open 
daily,  except  12-4 ;  opened  then  for  small  fee)  stands 
on  the  site  of  one  built  in  1358,  and  has  a  great  niun- 
ber  of  fine  old  Elemish  pictures  (fee  to  climb  the  tower, 
1  fr.).  Notre  Dame  contains  some  veiled  paintings, 
shown  for  a  fee  of  i  fr.  The  choir  and  nave  date  from 
1186;  the  tower  from  1250.  It  is  the  largest  brick 
tower  in  Belgium,  —  390  ft.  higlj  (fee,  1  fr.).  Hand- 
some bronze  doors ;  exquisite  marble  group  of  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  by  Michael  Angelo,  over  the  altar. 
In  chapel  on  r.  (1  fr.),  sumptuous  ancient  tombs  of 
Charles  the  Bold  and  his  daughter  Marie.  Carven 
pulpit.     Large  collection  of  paintings. 

The  Belfry  of  Bruges  (see  Longfellow),  one  of  the 
quaint  monuments  of  the  Communei,  is  350  ft.  high, 
(fee,  ^fr.  below,  ^fr.  above).  The  chimes  (48  bells) 
play  every  quarter-hour. — The  Hotel  de  Ville  (1377) 
IS  a  noble  Gothic  edifice,  with  6  towers. — The  Ho^ital 
St.  Jean,  W.  of  Notre  Dame  (open  daily,  except  Sun., 
9-12,  and  1-6,  Jfr.),  is  renowned  for  its  marvellous 
paintings  by  Hans  Memling.  Do  not  fail  to  see  these. 
The  Chdsse  de  Ste.  Ursule  is  the  best.  The  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts  (|  fr.)  has  many  remarkable  pictures  by  the 
old  masters.  In  St.  Jaeques  are  brass  engraved  monu- 
ments of  Spanish  families.  —  The  Chapelle  du  Si.  San^f 
was  built  in  1150  as  the  receptacle  for  a  phial  that  the 
Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  had  given  to  Theodoric  of  Flan- 
ders, with  some  drops  of  the  Saviour's  blood.  Portal 
•nd  staircase,  Flamboyant   Gothic.     The  Palais  de 


BELGIUM.  209 . 

Justice  (rebuilt,  1722)  has  a  carved  chimney-piece 
(1528-29)  in  the  Court  Room  (ifr).  Bruges,  though 
decadent  and  melancholy,  is  celebrated  for  pretty 
girls  and  decorated  old  houses.  See  statues  of 
Memling  and  Jan  van  Eyck.  From  Bruges  it  is  f 
hr.  (fares,  8fr.  40c.,  2fr.  65c.,  Ifr.  70c.)  to 

G-hent  (Hotel  Royal;  De  la  Poste;  De  Vienne),  a 
city  of  145,000  inhab.,  on  the  river  Scheldt.  Ilie 
town  is  dividedr  into  26  islands,  and  has  88  bridges. 
The  history  of  Ghent  is  romantic.  It  became  the  capi- 
tal of  Flanders  in  1180.  200  years  earlier,  Baudonin 
had  introduced  weaving.  The  great  Guilds,  under 
Jacques  van  Artevelde,  etc.,  ruled  this  region  for  2 
centuries,  and  often  came  to  blows  among  themselves, 
as  on  May  2,  1345,  when  1,500  men  were  slain  in  a 
terrible  street-battle.  In  tlie  15th  century  there  were 
40,000  weavers;  and  the  woollen  workers  alone  fur- 
nished 18,000  men  to  the  civic  army.  Charles  V.  was 
born  in  Ghent  in  1500.  ^From  the  Spanish  domina- 
tion dates  the  decline.  11,000  inhab.  emigrated  at 
once  to  England  and  Holland.  Louis  XIV.  took  the 
town  after  a  siege  of  6  days,  in  1698.  In  1810  Napo- 
leon I.  made  a  ceremonial  entry,  with  Marie  Louise. 

Notice  the  Marchc  du  Fendredi,  a  great  square 
surrounded  by  old  liouses.  In  tlie  middle,  the  politi- 
cal forum  of  Ghent,  stands  a  statue  of  Van  Artevelde. 
In  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Baton  (open  daily,  except 
12-1)  see  the  vast  crypt,  built  in  991  and  restored  in 
1228  ;  tlie  noble  nave  and  transepts  (1533) ;  and  the 
tower,  built  in  1533-34  (416  steps;  fee,  2  fr.,  1-4 
persons).  See  the  picture  of  "The  Adoration  of  the 
Spotless  Lamb,'*  by  the  brothers  Van  Eyck.  Al- 
though more  than  400  years  old,  it  preserves  its  bril- 
liancy of  coloring.  Here  also  is  a  chef-d^onuvre  of 
Rubens.  Two  statues  of  Si  s.  Peter-  and  Paul  orname^ 
H 


210  GHENT.  —  MECHLIN. 

the  choir.  The  Hotel  de  Fille,  built  1481-1628,  is  a 
remarkably  beautiful  Flambojant  building,  whose  E. 
facade  is  very  striking.  The  Belfry,  built  1183-1339, 
whose  bells  assembled  the  citizens,  is  386  ft.  high,  and 
commands  an  extensive  prospect  over  Manders  (asceirt, 
2  fr.).  There  are  44  bells  in  the  chime,  including  Ro- 
land. The  B^giiinage,  the  chief  curiosity  in  Ghent,  is 
A  community  of  women  who  are  not  bound  by  vows, 
but  live  by  their  own  labors  or  resources.  This  insti- 
tution of  secular  sain^ts  had  its  origin  in  the  7th  century. 
The  old  Grand  B^guinage  formed  a  separate  quarter  of 
the  city,  surrounded  by  walls,  and  included  18  convents 
and  100  houses.  The  new  suburban  one  has  many 
handsome  Gothic  houses,  and  a  vast  ch.  600  women 
live  here,  and  make  rich  laces.  See  St.  Jacques  Ch. ; 
£t.  Nicholas  and  St.  MichaeU  crowded  with  pictures ; 
St.  FierrCi  with  rare  old  paintings ;  the  imposing  Palais 
de  Justice;  the  University,  with  a  splendid  marble 
rotunda,  and  a  library  in  old  Baudeloo  Monastery 
(100,000  vols.)  ;  and  the  Museum  {\  fr.).  The  Oudehurg 
is  a  remnant  of  the  old  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders, 
where  John  of  Gaunt  was  bom,  1340.  On  Marche 
<lu  Vendredi  is  an  old  cannon,  such  as  stone  missiles 
were  fired  from.  See  Botanical  Garden  (Ghent  is 
called  "  The  Queen  of  Flowers  ")  ;  Zoological  Garden 
(fee,  1  fr.)  ;  ruins  of  Abbey  of  St*  Bavon. .  Fares  from 
Ghent  to  Brussels,  4  fr.  35  c,  3  fr.  25  c,  2  fr.  20  c. 

From  Brussels  to  Antwerp  trains  run  in  1  hr.,  pass- 
ing Malines,  or  Mechlin  {La  Gigogne;  Beffer;  de  la 
Couronne),  a  city  of  40,000  inhab.,  the  ecclesiastical 
capital  of  Belgium.  In  1572-80  the  town  was  sacked 
and  burned  by  the  Spaniards,  the  troops  of  the  Prince 
of  Orange,  and  the  English.  See  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Bxmbold^  begun  in  1451.  Imposing  interior,  and  carved 
Dulpit.      Huge  tower,  320  ft.  high,  with  a  splendid 


BELGIUM.  211. 

chime  of  44  bells.  In  the  S.  transept  is  The 
Crucifixion,  by  Van  Dyck,  In  JJfdtre  Dame  is 
Rubens's  Miracolous  Draught  of  Fishes  (1  fr.).  In  St, 
Jean  is  a  fine  Triptych  by  Rubens  Qfr.).  Mechlin  is 
renowned  for  its  beautiful  lace. 

Antwerp  (Hotel  8t.  Antaine;  Grand;  Gammeree; 
du  Rhin;  d'Angleterre/  De  VEurope;  Grand  Lor 
boureur  ;  Be  la  Paix)  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  com- 
mercial towns  in  Europe  (240,000  inhab.),  and  one  of 
the  quaintest  and  most  replete  with  historical  and  artis- 
tic interest.  Napoleon  I.  wished  to  make  Antwerp 
a  great  maritime  arsenal,  and  built  vast  docks; 
but  the  Antwerp  people  have  constructed  others 
yet  more  vast.  Climb  the  Cathedral  Tower  (75  c), 
and  look  over  the  crowded  Scheldt,  and  over  the  Low 
Countries  from  Breda  to  Brussels.  The  Cathedral 
(built  1353-1530)  is  the  most  imposing  ch.  in  Belgium 
(open  dailv,  except  12-4).  When  closed,  ask  porter 
for  keys  (ifr.).  The  majestic  interior  (384  ft.  long, 
130  ft.  high)  is  divided  into  7  aisles,  by  6  rows  of 
columns.  Choir  built  1352-1411.  Philip  11.  once 
held  a  Chapter  of  the  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece  here. 
In  1566  the  Iconoclasts  did  irreparable  damage.  (See 
Motley's  "  Dutch  Republic,"  for  romantic  episodes  in 
Antwerp's  history.)  In  the  r.  transept  is  Rubens's 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  usualljr  kept  veiled.  In  the  1. 
transept  is  Rubens's  The  Elevation  of  the  Cross.  Above 
the  high  altar  is  The  Assumption,  also  by  Rubens. 
See  stone  outside  with  the  epitaph  of  Quentln  Matsys, 
and  the  sculptured  pulpit  and  tabernacles.  The  mag- 
nificent tower  is  402  ft.  high  (finished  1530) ;  the 
chimes  have  99  bells.  Napoleon  likened  this  tower  to 
Mechlin  lace.  Near  the  portal  is  the  celebrated  iron 
well-canopy  made  by  Quentin  Matsya  St,  Paul, 
St.  AndretOy  and  St,  Antoine  contain  rare  old  Flemish 
paintings.     Tl:e  Ch,  of  St.  Jacques  (built  1429-1501 


212  ROTTERDAM. 

contains  the  tomb  of  Rubens,  and  many  good  pictures 
and  sculptures  (small  fee).  St.  Augustine  has  pictures 
by  Rubens,  Van  Dyck,  etc.  The  Hotel  de  Ville,  built 
in  1561-65,  contains  splendid  mural  paintines  (done 
in  1864-69)  in  the  SaUe  Leys,  Many  old  Guild  houses 
(1513-79)  near  by.  Visit  the  beautiful  new  Gothic 
Bourse;  the  Palais  de  Justice;  and  the  House  oj 
Rubens  (Rue  Rubens),  where  the  painter  died.  The 
Museum  (open  daily,  9-5)  is  the  best  in  Belgium ;  700 
paintings  here,  with  many  Rubenses  and  Van  Dycks 
(catalogue,  3 J  fr.).  Por  notable  private  collections  in- 
quire here.  The  new  Boulevards,  on  the  site  of  the 
walls;  the  vast  docks,  quays,  and  warehouses;  the 
Park ;  and  the  statues  of  Rubens,  King  Leopold  I., 
Van  Dyck,  and  Teniers,  are  worth  seeing.  The  Cita- 
del and  fortifications  are  interesting. 

Steamers  from  Antwerp  to  Rotterdam  thrice  weekhr,  in 
9  hrs.;  fares,  5  fr.  30  c,  3  fr.  20  c.  To  London,  Sun., 
Wed.,  and  Fri.,  34  fr.  To  London  via  Harwich,  daily,  34 
fr.,  26  fr.  70  c.  Regular  departures  for  all  the  great  ports 
of  the  world. 


HOLLAND. 

THE  tourist  may  very  pleasantly  and  profitaibly  spend 
2-3  days  in  Holland.     Go  from  Antwerp  (time,  4 
hrs. :   fares,  10  fr.  45  c^  7  fr.  70  c,  4 fr.  90  c.)  to 

Rotterdam  {New  mth;  PayB-Bas;  du  Panose; 
de  HoUande;  de  VEurope;  Victoria),  the  second 
city  in  Holland  (200,000  inhabitants).  The  Maas 
is  here  navigable  for  the  largest  ships ;  and  the 
scene  on  the  quay  is  very  animated.  Superb 
^^cks,   and   many  canals.    The   steamboats   land 


5 


HOLLAND.  213 

passeiigers  near  tbe  Boompjes  quay.  Here  stood  the 
batch  East  India  House»  now  turned  into  colonial 
warehouses.  Rotterdam  builds  many  ships;  lias  a 
heaTY  trade  with  Java  and  Sumatra,  and  steam  lines  ta 
London  and  other  Atlantic  ports ;  and  is  a  great  point 
for  the  departure  of  emigrants  for  America.  The  canals 
are  bordered  with  trees,  and  the  suburbs  are  pleas- 
ing. The  ffoogstraat,  the  Willemskade»  the  new 
[Uay,  are  worth  seeing.  The  Museum  (open  daily^ 
1-3 ;  I  fr.)  has  fine  examples  of  Rembrandt,  Rubens^ 
Diirer,  Wouvermans,  and  Ary  Scheffer.  In  the  Grooie- 
Kerk  is  a  noble  organ;  also  monuments  of  several 
famous  admirals.  Good  view  from  the  tower,  297  ft. 
high  (60  c.)  The  Old  CL,  the  S.  Ch.,  the  new  Town 
Holly  the  Exchange^  the  Botanical  Gardens^  the  ZoologU 
cal  Gardens^  may  be  easily  seen  in  an  afternoon.  Tb& 
statue  of  Erasmus  stands  in  the  Groote-Markt ;  aud  oa 
the  house  which  was  his  birthplace  is  the  inseiiption^ 
Hac  est  parva  domus,  niagnus  qua  natus  Erasmm.  The- 
New-Park  is  W.  of  the  town.  Walk  along  the  Maas, 
noting;  the  peculiar  costume  of  the  peasantry  and  the- 
singumr  neatness  of  the  houses.  From  Rotterdam  ta 
the  Hague  takes  \  hr.  (fares,  Ifl.  20  c.,  Ifl.y60c.). 
On  this  route  is  Schiedam,  renowned  for  its  distil- 
leries (see  Hotel  de  Vllle  and  Exchange')',  and  Delft 
(H6td  Lvbrechts),  a  very  ancient  Dutch  town,  once  fa- 
mous for  porcelain,  but  now  dull  and  dignified.  The 
staircase  on  which  William  of  Orange  was  shot  (1584) 
is  still  shown.  It  was  from  Delft  that  the  Pilgrim* 
embarked  for  Plymouth,  America  (1620).  In  the  Oude 
Kerk,  see  the  tomb  of  Admirals  van  Tromp  (1658),. 
Hein,  etc.  In  the  Nieuwe  Kerk  (1412-76)  is  the  mag- 
nificent Mausoleum  of  William  of  Orange. 

The  Hague  (H6td  BeUeme;  deslnde*;  de  ^Europe/ 
Viettx  J>oeleny  Central),  beautifully  situated  ;  (Ou^ 
Doeien),  the  capital  of  Holland  (156,000  inlmb. 


214         THE  HAGUE.  —  SCHEVENINGEN. 

m  summer  one  of  the  most  charming  places  in  Europe. 
It  nestles  in  a  delightful  forest,  where  all  the  character- 
istics of  Dutch  scenery — mdssy  trees,  green  banks,  and 
winding  brooks  and  canals — appear.  The  Museum  (open 
free  dafly,  9-3  ;  Sat.,  10-1 ;  catalogue,  50  c.)  contains 
the  very  best  examples  of  the  Dutch  school  of  art,  and 
many  other  celebrated  naintings, — Paul  Potter's  famous 
Bull,  Rembrandt's  Scnool  of  Anatomy,  the  Presenta- 
tion in  the  Temple,  etc.  On  the  E.  is  a  statue  of  JFil- 
Uam  the  Silent  (1848).  In  the  Buitenhqf,  statue  of 
William  II.  Opposite  the  Royal  Falace^  equestrian 
.statue  of  Prince  William  I.  See  the  Marine  Museum, 
with  its  wonderful  collection  of  models  for  ships ;  the 
Rojfal  Library  (100,000  vols.)  ;  the  collection  of  40,000 
•coins  and  medals ;  the  Groote  Kerky  with  its  beautiful 
tombs  ;  the  Kloster  Kerk  ;  the  New  Ck.,  where  Spinoza 
is  buried.  The  ponderous  old  Binnenho/ Tslace  and 
the  Buitenhof  square  are  of  ^at  historic  interest. 
"The  Grand  Council  now  holds  its  sessions  in  the  an- 
cient torture-room.  Beyond  the  Buitenhof  you  reach 
the  gloomy  Gevangenport  tower,  where  De  Witt  was 
slain  in  1672.  In  the  Willems-Park  is  the  grand  Na- 
tional Monument  (built  1863-69),  covered  with  statues. 
The  national  buildings  are  plain  and  substantial.  On 
the  Noordeinde  is  the  Royal  Palace,  and  the  old  3f«- 
seum  of  King  William  II.  Prince  Frederick's  Palace 
is  not  far  from  the  Park.  See  the  pretty  royal  villa 
<;alled  Huis  ten  Bosch,  built  in  1647,  and  Med  with 
treasures  of  art  (fee,  1  fl.).  From  the  Hotel  Bellevue, 
steam  tramway  (2^3  M.)  to  the  pretty  seaside  resort 
of  SdieT^aingen  {Grand  Hotel  des  Bains,  prices  mod- 
erate), a  fishing-villaffe  among  the  dunes.  In  summer, 
tlie  fashionable  world  of  North  Germany,  Holland,  and 
England,  and  many  people  from  the  S.,  assemble  here. 
Beautiful  sea  views  and  fine  forests.    Leyden  and  Raar^ 


HOLLAND.  215 

lem  may  be  visited  between  The  Hague  and  Amster- 
dam (fares  to  Amsterdam,  4  fl.,  3  fl.  5c.,  2  fl.;  to 
Leyden,  80  c,  60  c,  40  c. ;  from  Leyden  to  Haarlem^ 
Iflo.  40  c.;  lfl.,10c.,  70c.). 

Leyden  {H6td  Levedag ;  lAon  d*Or;  Central  r 
40,000  inhab.,  famous  for  the  great  siege  (see  Mot- 
ley). It  possessed  100,000  weavers.  Leading  ob- 
jects of  interest;  the  spacious  Hooglavdsche  Kerk;  the- 
Natural  History  Museum  (open  daily,  free),  with  the 
finest  cabinet  of  anatomy  in  Europe  (open  daily,  2-5, 
except  Sun.);  the  Museum  of  Anti^ities  (open  free 
Sun.,  13-7,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.,  11-4) ;  theJa/p- 
dnese  Musevm  (open  daily,  50  c.) ;  the  Numismatic 
(open  dailv,  12-3) ;  the  University  (600  students), 
founded  after  the  siege,  with  excellent  observatory  ;. 
Library,  3,000  oriental  MSS.  (open  Mon.,  Wed., 
and  Sat.,  12-3) ;  the  Botanic  Gardens  (E.  Indies, 
plants) ;  and  the  old  Castle  of  Drusvs.  The  Hotel  d» 
ViUe  has  many  inscriptions  relative  to  the  siege  of 
1574. 

Haarlem  (Lion  d'Or;  Funckler ;  Leeuwerik)  is. 
a  town  of  28,000  inhab.  The  siege  by  the  Span- 
iards in  1572,  and  the  heroic  defense,  are  de- 
scribed in  Motley's  picturesque  history.  The  CatTie^ 
dral  is  very  spacious ;  28  columns  in  the  nave.  The 
vast  organ,  with  5,000  pipes,  is  played  Tues.  and 
Thurs.,  1-2  ;  at  other  times  12  fl.  for  a  party.  Visit 
the  interior.  Marble  crypt  under  the  organ.  From, 
the  tower  extensive  view.  See  the  Teyl&r  Museum  >- 
the  statue  of  Coster,  inyentor  of  printing  with  metaJ 
types  ;  Coster's  House/  the  Museum  of  Natural  His- 

n;  and  the  house  of  the  rich  banker,  Hope, 
msterdam  {Hotd  AmxUl;  Old  Bible;  Brack* 9 
Doelen;  Bonded;  Am^icain;  Palais  Boyal)  is  a 
city  of  400,000  inhab.,  named  from  the  Amstel, 
an  inlet  of  the  Zuider  Zee,  communicating  with 
tbe  North  Sea  by  the  N.  Holland  Canal.  60  M. 


216  AMSTERDAM. 

long,  tlie  most  gigantic  undertaking  of  the  kind  ever 
executed.  It  commences  opposite  Amsterdam,  and  ex- 
tends to  the  Helder  and  the  Texel ;  cost  15,000,000. 
The  town  is  built  upon  piles  driven  into  the  sand.  Its 
canals  are  spanned  by  more  than  300  bridges.  The 
finest  view  is  from  the  Hooge  Sims.  Near  by  is  St. 
Anthony's  Gate,  with  5  towers  (built  1488-1585).  The 
Fahice  is  a  huge  stone  structure,  standing  on  13,695 
piles.  Near  it  are  the  Dam,  the  memorial  of  1831,  the 
Exchange,  the  Fost-Office,  the  Nieuwe  Kerk,  the  Sea- 
marCs  Club,  From  the  tower,  one  has  a  magnifi- 
cent panorama  of  the  city.  Fine  marble  sculp- 
tures on  the  palace  front.  The  Throne  BaU,  the 
Grand  Hall,  decorated  with  trophies,  and  the  Au- 
dience Hall,  are  remarkable  (fee,  60  c).  The  Botan- 
ical and  Zoological  Gardens  (latter,  75  c.)  are  equal  to 
those  of  any  other  city.  The  principal  museum  (free 
daily,  10-3),  the  Trippenkuis,  has  the  best  collection  of 
paintings  in  Holland  (get  catalogue).  Note  the  works 
of  Rembrandt.  The  Vanderhoof  collection  is  in  the 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  The  Oude  Mannenhuis  is  open, 
10-4.  The  Fodor  Museum  has  very  good  French  and 
Dutch  pictures.  The  Historical  Gallery  is  devoted  to 
episodes  in  Dutch  history  (open  daily,  60  c. ;  catalogue 
75  c).  See  Fos  Museum  ;  statue  of  Rembrandt ;  monu- 
ment to  Van  Speyk  ;  Blind  Asylum ;  Zeemanshoop 
^Sailors'  Hope),  a  club  with  2,000  members  ;  Normal 
ikJtool  of  Navigation  ;  Sailor's  Home ;  great  raug^  of 
state  warehouses,  on  Entrepot  Dock ;  Parky  good  music 
oti  Sun. ;  shops  where  diamonds  are  polished ;  Jewish 
quarter ;  Cellular  Prison;  and  Crystal  Palace,  Am- 
sterdam is  the  cleanest  city  in  Europe ;  on  a  bright 
SundaJ  it  presents  a  charming  spectacle.  Notice  the 
Fountain,  commemorating  the  events  in  1830-31.  la 
^'le  old  ch.  on  the  Dam,  monument  to  Van  Ruyter* 


UTRECHT.  217 

Pleasant  excursions  to  Barmen,  and  other  prettj  sub* 
urban  towns.  Broek,  6  M.  out,  is  a  wonderfully  clean 
village.  At  Zaandam  is  the  house  where  Peter  the* 
Great  worked  when  learning  the  sliipwright's  trade. 
Good  fish  dinners  here.  It  is  1  hr.  ^23  M. ;  fares,  1  fl. 
70  c,  1  fl.  25  c,  85  c.)  from  Amsterdam  to 

Utreoht  (H&M,  Pay$  Bos ;  BeUeme ;  de  r Europe; 
De  la  Station),  the  Roman  Trc^tum,  and  the 
home  of  many  Dutch  families  of  rank.  Noble 
Cathedral  here,  constructed  in  the  13th  century, 
and  much  tried  by  hurricanes  and  ioonodasts. 
The  people  of  Utrecht  boast  that  from  the  tower,  s^ 
821  ft.  high,  you  can  see  all  Holland.  In  the 
church,  fine  organ  and  magnificent  mausoleums. 
South  of  the  cathedral  is  the  University,  founded 
in  1686,  very  rich;  600  students;  splendid  li- 
brary and  remarkable  Museum  of  Natural  His- 
tory, The  Palaee  of  the  Popes,  founded  by 
Adrian  VI. .  with  a  statue  of  St.  Salvador,  is  now 
the  palace  of  the  provincial  government.  Adrian  was 
bom  in  Utrecht.  In  the  Stadhuis  are  a  few  pictures. 
Fine  new  boulevards  around  the  city. 

From  Utrecht  you  can  begin  your  journey  up  the 
Rhine.  Take  rail  to  Busseldorf,  passing  Jrnhem,  thj 
Arenaenm  of  the  ancients.  The  Romans  encamped 
here  70  years  B.C.,  and  it  was  for  a  long  time  the  resi^ 
dence  of  tho  Dukes  t  c  Guelders.  See  the  Cathedral , 
with  tomb  of  Count  Egmont.  Tower,  380  ft.  high ; 
wonderful  chimes.  The  Palace  of  Justice  has  a  fine 
oourt-room.  Bmmerich  (Hotel  de  Hollande)  is  the 
first  German  town. 


218  DUSSELDORF.  —  COLOGNE. 


GERMANY  AND  AUSTRIA. 

FROM  Utrecht  to  Emmericb,  4  fl.  50  c,  3  fl.  40  c, 
2  fl.  25  c. ;  54i  M.  From  Emmerich  to  DiMel- 
dorf,  fares,  7  mks.  60  pf.,  5  mks.  70  pf.,  3  mks.  80  pf. ; 
to  Cologne,  11  mks.  20  pf.,  8  mks.  40  pf.,  5  mks. 
60  p£. ;  to  Frankfort,  28  mks.  80  pf.,  21  mks.  20  pf ., 
13  mks.  50  pf. 

DuMeldorf  {Hotel  Breidenbacher  ;  Le  r Europe; 
RomiseAer  Kaiser),  a  city  of  81,000  inhab.,  is  the  prin- 
cipal art-centre  on  the  Khine.  The  Academy  of  Arts 
was  founded  in  1/67 ;  it  now  has  300  students,  in  a 
wing  of  the  old  Electoral  Palace,  saved  from  the  fire  of 
1872.  Here,  also,  are  the  remains  of  the  famous 
Gallery  of  Art,  and  many  drawings,  of  all  schools, 
(open  Mon.,  Wed.,  Fri.,  and  Sat,  12-1).  Handsome 
Florentine  Fost-affice;  pleasant  Hofgarten;  and  haunts 
of  Goethe  and  Herder.  The  Ch.  of  St,  Lambert  con- 
tains the  tombs  of  the  last  Dukes  of  Cleves  and  Ber^, 
and  a  good  picture  by  Achenbach.  St.  Andreto^s  is 
very  interestmg.  In  the  ball  of  the  BeaUchUe  is  a 
frieze  by  Bendemann.  In  the  Courts  of  Justice  see 
Schadow's  "Heaven,  Hell,  and  Purgatory.'*  Many 
fine  modem  paintings  in  the  Tonhalle.  See  statues 
of  Cornelius  and  the  Elector  John  William.  Seyeial 
exhibitions  of  pictures  in  the  town ;  admission  fees, 
50  pf.  It  is  ^  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  3  mks.  70  pf.,  2  mks. 
80pf.,  1  mk,  90_pf.),  or  by  boat  5  hrs.,  to 

Cologne  {mkH  du  Nord;  Disch ;  Be  V Europe* 
Victoria;  Du  Dome;  Cologne),  the  sixth  town  in  th© 
German  Empire  (275,000  inhab.),  ahd  an  important 
ffarrison.  The  streets  are  dark,  narrow,  and  mediieya)* 
Many  houses  date  from  the  13th  century.    70  wide 


COLOGNE.  21^ 

streets  have  lately  been  laid  out.  Cologne  was  founded 
by  the  Ubii,  when  Agrippa  transferred  them  t-o  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Rhine ;  and  colonized  by  Homan  veterans 
when  Germanicus  held  command,  as  Colonia  Agrippina, 
Tt  was  the  residence  of  the  legates  of  Lower  Germany. 
Constantine  the  Great  built  a  bridge  here  in  308^ 
afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Normans.  From  the  5tl^ 
centnry  it  was  a  ])art  of  the  Frankish  kingdom.  Exten- 
sive Roman  remains  hei*e. 

The  Cathedral,  the  grandest  Gothic  building  in  the 
world,  was  begun  in  1248.  Tlie  choir  was  consecrated 
in  1322,  and  the  nave  in  1388;  but  about  1500  the 
work  ceased,  and  in  1795  the  French  troops  nsed  the 
half-ruinous  ch.  for  a  hay-magazine.  Construction  was 
resumed  in  1823,  and  more  than  $3,000,000  spent 
upon  it  between'1842  and  1880,  when  it  was  consecrated, 
with  imposing  ceremonies.  The  superb  W.faqade  and 
lofty  portals  are  flanked  by  2  huge  towers,  crowned 
by  open  spires,  over  500  ft.  high.  The  bells  were 
placed  in  the  S.  tower  in  1447;  and  in  1874  a  new 
30-ton  bell,  made  from  French  cannon,  was  added.  A 
forest  of  flying  buttresses  joins  the  nave  and  aisles. 
The  total  length  is  444  ft. ;  breadth,  201  ft. ;  height  of 
nave,  145  ft.  There  are  4  aisles ;  and  the  triple-aisled 
transepts  extend  to  the  imposing  N.  and  6.  portals. 
There  are  56  vast  columns  inside.  The  stained  win* 
dows  in  the  N.  aisle  date  from  1608-9 ;  tliose  in  the 
S.  aisle  (equally  beautiful)  are  Munich  work  of  1848. 
The  Choir  contains  14t.li-cehtury  statues  of  the  \% 
Apostles,  15tb-century  carved  stalls,  ancient  stained 
wmdows,  modem  fresces  of  angel-choirs,  modem  tap- 
estries, and  7  wonderful  chapels,  with  venerable  tombs 
of  the  archbishops,  the  Bavarian  Electors,  etc.  The 
reliquary  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Threg  Kings  contains 
the  Doues  of  the  Magi,  carried  to  Constantinople  bji 


^20  COLOGNE. 

the  Empress  Helena,  thence  to  Milan,  and  presented 
by  Barbarossa  to  Cologne's  arcbbidiop  in  1164.  Tbe 
heart  of  Marie  de  Medicis  is  buried  here.  Tie  Ltbrary 
contains  Hildebald's  precious  MSS.;  and  many  deeply 
interesting  relics  are  m  the  Treasury  and  in  the  Archi- 
^iscofuU  MuieuiUy  S.  of  the  ch.  See  inner  and  outer 
galleries  of  the  choir.  Tbe  ch.  is  open  all  day,  but 
walking  about  is  not  allowed  during  service. 

Over  the  riy. -bridge  are  equestiian  statues  of  Fred- 
crick  William  IV.  and  William  I.  W.  of  the  Cathedral 
is  the  great  Gothic  Museum  (open  9-6,  75  pf.)  with 
many  hundred  paintings,  and  very  interesting  Koman 
and  mediaeval  relics.  In  the  adjacent  Mimrites*  Ch., 
Duns  Scotus  is  buried.  Beautiful  Gothic  cloisters. 
St.  Gereon*8  Ch.  (fee,  1  mk.),  contains  the  bones  of  the 
Theban  Legion,  martyred  at  Cologne,  uiider  Diocletian. 
Skulls  and  bones  of  the  martyrs  to  be  seen  in  the  choir. 
CJurious  crypt.  In  St.  Ursula  is  the  tomb  of  that 
unhappy  princess,  who,  with  her  11,000  virgin  com- 
panions, was  massacred  at  Cologne  on  her  return  from 
Kome.  The  ch.  (5th  century ;  restored)  has  a  Gothic 
portal.  You  are  shown  the  bones  of  the  n^artyrs  in  all 
5)art8  of  the  ch.  In  the  Treasury  (fee,  \\  mk.)  is  St. 
Ursula's  Reliquary.  Great  St.  Martin  has  a  majestic 
tower,  and  an  exquisite  baptismal  font,  given  by  JPope 
Leo  II.  Sta.  Maria-Inf-Capitol,  consecrated  in  1049 
by  Pope  Leo  IX.,  is  an  imposing  Eomanesque  ch.  St. 
Peter  has  an  altar-piece  by  Rubens.  /!/.  Cecilia  dates 
from  1200.  The  Apostles^  Ch.  (1200)  has  a  picturesque 
choir.     St.  Cunibert  (1248)  has  rich  frescos  and  glass. 

See  the  Old  Wall ;  the  Roman  Tower  ;  the  house  in 
which  Marie  de  MMicis  died  in  exile  and  poverty ;  the 
Mo^umettt  to  Frederick  William  III.,  8unx)unaed  by 
statues  of  statesmen  and  generals  who  relieved  the 
Rhine  from  French  domination ;  and  the  bronze  statue 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,  221 

of  Bismarck.  The  Rathiang  (IStli  century)  has  the 
Lion's  Court,  and  the  quaint  hall  in  which  tlie  first  Diet 
of  the  Hanseatic  League  was  held.  See  Botanic  and 
Zoological  Gardens,  and  the  manj  "  original  and  only  ^* 
shops  where  the  Farina  Eau  de  Cologne  is  sold. 

l^hr.  from  Cologne  (fares,  6mks.,  4|mks.,  3mks.), 
on  the  routes  to  Belgium  and  Paris,  is  Aiz-la^Chs- 
pelle  {Hotel  Grand  Monarque ;  NneUens ;  De  I'Em- 
pereur ;  BeUeoue ;  Dragon  d-'Or),  tlie  Aachen  of  the 
Germans  and  the  AqnUgrannm  of  the  Romans.  Tltis 
was  the  favorite  residence  of  Charlemagne,  and  here  he 
died  in  814.  Aix  was  at  one  time  the  capital  of  all  the 
country  N.  of  tlie  Alps.  37  German  emperors  were 
crowned  here.  For  centuries  the  Imperial  Diets  were 
held  here.  The  modem  town  is  handsome,  with  the 
characteristics  of  a  watering-place.  The  warm  Sulphur 
Springs  were  renowned  in  the  Roman  era,  and  wonder- 
ful cures  are  still  effected  by  them.  The  most  impor- 
tant is  the  KaiserquelU.  At  the  Elisenhrunnen  crowds 
assemble  daily  in  summer  to  drink  the  waters.  The 
Kurham  has  a  superb  concert-hall  (fee,  50pf.).  In 
the  Mdrket-plaee  is  a  fountain,  with  statue  of  Charle- 
ma^e.  The  great  Cathedral  is  in  two  sections :  the 
quaint-roofed  Byzantine  octagon  (in  the  style  of  San 
Vitale,  at  Ravenna),  built  by  Charlemagne,  796-804, 
and  consecrated  by  Pope  Leo  III. ;  and  the  lofty  choir, 
in  the  best  Gothic  style  (1353-1413).  The  octagon 
contains  many  fine  columns,  brought  from  Rome  and 
Ravenna;  bronze  doors,  cast  in  804;  and  the  pulpit, 
rich  in  gold  and  gems,  presented  by  Henry  II.  See 
the  stained  windows,  designed  by  Cornelius ;  and  the 
1 4th-ccntttry  statues.  The  t^mb  of  Charlemagne  was 
opened  by  Otho  III.  in  1000 ;  and  by  Bafbarossa  irt 
1 165,  when  the  body  was  removed  from  the  marW- 
thirone  on  which  it  was  seated,  and  plactd  in  a  Pari' 


222  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE  —  BONN. 

sarcophagus.  The  throne  (afterwards  used  in  the 
coronation  cerenoonies)  and  the  sarcophagus  are  now 
in  the  ^Uerj.  The  bones  of  Charlemagne  are  en- 
shrined in  the  Treasury,  where  are  also  the  girdles  of 
Christ  and  Mary,  a  piece  of  the  True  Cross,  etc.  (Open 
daily,  ^1,  3-6  ;  3  mks.  for  1-3  persons.)  Notice  the 
old  Flemish  paintings  inside  of  the  cabinets.  Some  of 
the  holy  treasures,  such  as  the  swaddling-clothes  of  the 
infnnt  Saviour,  are  shown  but  once  every  7  years. 

The  Rathhaw  was  built  out  of  the  debrin  of  the  pal- 
ace of  the  Carlovinffian  emperors  (1376).  The  Hall  of 
the  Emperors  (75  pt.)  has  noble  freseos.  The  Warriors* 
Monument  commemorates  the  soldiers  slain  in  1866  and 
1870-71.    The  Museum  has  some  good  pictures. 

Up  the  Rhine  by  Steamer. 

Tlie  journey  can  be  made  in  1  day  from  Cologne  to 
Hayence.  It  is  better  to  take  2  days,  stopping  at 
Co(>lence.  There  is  a  rly.  on  either  bank,  but  the  steam- 
boat is  preferable.  If,  however,  you  wish  to  go  from 
Cologne  to  Erankfort  by  rail,  you  can  do  so  in  4  hrs. 
(fares,  12  mks.,  9  mks.,  6  mks.').  By  steamboat  (]<^i*g^ 
and  fine  boats)  the  fares  from  Cologne  to  Coblencc  are 

3  mks.  60  pf.,  2  mks.  40  pf.;  by  the  express  boat  the 
fare  is  3  mks.  70  pf.  From  Coblencc  to  Mayenoe,  3  mks. 
70pf.,  2J  mks. ;  by  express  boat,  4J  mks.  ThrouffU 
tickets  allow  stopping  off,  but  be  careful  to  resume  tJie 
joumcjr  by  the  boats  of  the  same  company.  You  can 
^*ke  rail  from  Cologne  to  Bonn  (21  M.;  fares,  2i  mks.. 
If  mks.,  1  mk.  30  pf.)  ;  from  Cologne  to  CJoUenoe 
7  mks.  70  pf.,  6  mks.  60  pf.,  3  mks.  90  pf.) ;  from  Co- 
hlence  to  Frankfort  (10  mks.  40  pf.,  6  mks.  90  pf., 

4  mks.  40  pf.). 

Bonn  {CMdener  Stem,  capital  house;  BeUevue/ 
yy  Royal;  Rheineck)  has  a  beautiful  location. 


UP  THE  RHINE.  223 

Just  beyond,  the  banks  become  bold  and  pre- 
cipitous, and  the  beauties  of  tUe  famous  stream 
begin.  The  UrUwnitif  occupies  the  old  castle» 
built  in  1717-80  as  an  electoral  palace,  and  1,800  ft 
long.  It  has  a  library  of  250,000  vols.;  museums 
of  Koman  and  Teutonic  antiquities  and  of  Arts 
(75  pf .  %ach ;  catalogues  for  sale).  See  bronze 
statue  of  Beethoven  in  the  Miiusterplatz.  The  Ca- 
thedral, founded  b^  the  mother  of  Constantiue,  is  a 
cruciform  basilica,  with  two  choirs  and  a  high  octagonal 
tower.  Bronze  statue  of  the  Empress  Helena  inside. 
Beethoven's  birthplace  is  in  the  Bouugasse.  The  Pop- 
peUdorfer  Sckloss,  reached  by  a  quadruple  avenue  of 
horse-chestnuts  1|M.  long,  contains  a  very  large  natural- 
history  collection  (fee,  75  pf.).  Chemical  Laboratory 
near  by.  The  Anato^nie,  a  noble  edifice,  finished  in 
1872,  is  not  far  off.  Beyond  Poppelsdorf  is  the  Kreuz- 
berg,  400  ft.  high,  on  which  is  a  ch.  containing  the 
Rolu  Staircase,  built  in  imitation  of  that  at  Home,  and 
to  be  mounted  on  the  knees  only.  Bonn  was  the  Cos- 
tra  Bonnensia  qf  Tacitus,  a  great  Koman  fortress.  It 
has  suffered  terrible  sieges.  The  Coble^izerstrasse  is  very 
handsome.  The  FroviMcial  Museum,  in  the  House  of 
Amdt,  is  interesting.  On  the  Alte  ZoU  is  the  Monument 
toArudi,  In  the  cemetery  are  buried  Niebuhr  the  liis- 
toriau,  Schlegel,  Robert  Schumann,  Arndt,  and  Vou 
Bunsen. 

Konigswinter  (Hold  de  V Europe  ;  De  Berlin  ; 
Bieffd;  Ool0gns),  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Rhine, 
is  the  point  whence  to  visit  the  Siebengebirge. 
The  Drachanfehi  (916  ft.  high)  may  be  climbed  in 
1  hr.  (guide,  1  mk.;  donkey.  H  mk.).  Half-way 
up,  a  road  diyergas  to  the  far-viewing  tower  on 
the  Hir^Merg.  To  the  W.  is  the  Monument 
in  memory  of  the  events  of  1818-15.  The  Castle 
stands   near  the  Terrace  (where  there  is  a  good 


224        ROLAN  DSBCK.  —  NONNEN  WKin  H. 

hotel).  It  was  built  about  1100  by  the  first  sxehlMtop 
of  Cologue,  aud  takes  its  name  froiu  a  dragon  slaiu 
there  by  Siegfried,  the  Niebehingen  hero.  The  red 
wiue  made  from  its  viueyards  is  called  hmgwCs  Blood. 
The  castle  was  destroyed  by  Fei-dinaud  of  Bavaria,  after 
a  long  siege.  Ruins  still  maginficent.  Superb  Tiew 
of  the  Seven  Mts.,  the  basalt  cliifs  behind  Jieumgeu, 
Oberwinter,  the  ruins  of  Rolandseck,  Bonn,  aud  Co- 
logne. See  the  cavern  where  tlie  fabled  dragon  had 
his  abode.  An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Oelherg, 
the  view  from  which  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  Rhine- 
land.  Thence  it  is  1^  hr.  to  Heisterbach,  an  old  Cis- 
tercian abbey,  in  a  beautiful  valley.  Little  is  left  of 
the  magnificent  ch.,  built  about  1200.  From  the  Oel- 
berg,  tne  Lowetiburg  (1,504  ft.),  a  castle  where  the 
Elector  of  Cologne  had  interviews  with  Melancthou 
before  becoming  a  Protestant,  may  be  reached.  Fine 
view.  Return  from  Heisterbach  to  Konigswinter  in  |  hr. 
by  the  Petemberg,  whence  good  view.  Konigswinter  is 
near  most  charming  sceneiy. 

The  boat  touches  at  Rolandseck  {Hotel  Rotafid- 
seek;  Boland ;  Decker;  BiUau\  |  hr.  above  K^ 
nigswinter.  From  restaurant  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion, fine  view  of  the  Seven  Mis.,  and  the  Rhine 
to  Remagen.  Rolandseck  is  a  very  popular  sum- 
mer-resort.  Ruined  Gaitle  stands  on  a  basalt 
rock,  347  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  It  was  founded 
by  Roland,  the  Paladin  of  Charlemagne,  who  died  at 
Roncesvalles.  The  island  of  Nonnenwerth,  where 
stands  the  convent  in  which  the  beautiful  Hildegai-de 
is  said  to  have  taken  the  veil  when  she  heard  that 
Roland  had  perished  ui  Spain,  may  be  reached  by  a 
small  boat  (return-fare,  1  mk.).  This  convent  is  men- 
tioned in  a  document  of  the  12th  century.  It  was  svip- 
t^ressed  in  1802,  reconsecrated  in  1845,  and  closed 
in  in  1876.     See  Bulwer's  Pilgrims  of  the  Ekiae, 


UP  THE  BHINE.  225 

stod  Schiller's  ballad  of  Mitter  Toggevdnirg,  At  Ehein^ 
.  brntbaek  (W.  bank)  is  a  large  town,  with  towers,  at 
tlie  emtrance  of  a  valley  filled  with  eopper-mities.  At 
Ut^d  (W.  bank)  the  cliffs  stand  out  into  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  producing  a  rapid.    Just  aboye  is 

Renuigeii  {Hdid  F&rstenberg ;  Kdnig  von  Prevs-^ 
9&n;  Bhein;  Anker),  noticeable  for  its  church  on 
the  ApUUna/rUberg  (a  hill  to  the  N.)>  a  pretty^ 
Gothic  edifice  with  four  towers,  entirely  modern, 
on  the  site  of  an  old  pilgrimage-shrine  of  the 
Middle  Ages.  It  was  built  bjr  Zwirner,  architect  of 
Cologne  Uatliedral,  and  contains  10  grand  frescos^ 
masterpieces  of  modern  German  art  (open  93-12  and 
2-6 ;  fee,  25  pt'.).  The  legend  states  that  when  the 
Archbishop  ot  Cologne  was  descending  the  Rhine  (in 
1164)  wiw  the  bones  of  the  Magi  aud  tlie  head  of  St. 
Apollinaris,  Bishop  of  Ravenna,  his  boat  was  stopped 
here,  by  some  mysterious  power,  until  the  latter  wa» 
placed  in  the  cliapel  on  diis  site.  Remagen  was  a 
Roman  towu  (Rigonuigus),  but  lost  its  importance  in 
the  Thirtv  Years  War.  Beautiful  excursions  thence, 
between  oold  basaltic  hills,  up  the  Valley  of  the 
▲br,  where  4,000,000  bottles  of  i*ed  wine  are  produced 
yearly.  It  is  7  M.  (carriage,  4  mks.)  to  the  Baths  of 
Newefuthr^  a  charming  watering-place,  with  warm  alkali 
springs,  used  for  lung  and  Uver  diseases.  Jkrtoeiler, 
a  quaint  Uttle  walled  town,  has  the  famous  A|x>llinarift 
Spring.     Ruiued  castles  aud  pretty  villages  abound. 

Opposite  Remagen,  over  M^  (E.  bank)  is  a  basaltic 
cliff  642  ft;,  high.  Lins  (Nasmuer  Hof)  is  an  ancient 
town  on  the  W.  bank,  with  walls  aud  pavements  of 
basalt,  and  a  13th-century  Romanesque  ch.,  containing 
a  triptych  of  the  ancient  Cologne  school  of  art.  The 
adjacent  hills  have  interesting  basalt-quarries,  and 
crosses  commemorating  the  battles  of  Leipsic  ar 
Waterloo  rise  on  two  of  them.     Arenfela  castle,  ab( 


226  HAMMEKSTfilN.  —  ANDERNACH. 

Liu2,  lately  restored,  bas  an  ancient  round  tower,  and, 
in  the  Knights'  Hall,  a  ooUection  of  armor.  Rliaiiieek 
{W.  bank) ,  tlie  boundary  between  the  upper  aud  Jo  war 
lilienish  districts,  is  a  lofty  Romanesque  castle  on  the 
site  (and  with  a  tower)  of  the  fortress  of  the  Rheinach 
family,  founded  in  the  13th  century.  It  may  be  visited 
from  Brohl  (^  hr.),  aud  has  some  fine  paintings  (fee, 
50-75  pf.)  and  a  superb  view.  It  was  sacked  by  the 
Erench  in  1689  and  bjr  troops  of  Cologne  in  1692. 
Farther  up,  near  Brohl,  is  Hammerstein,  a  lOth-ceu- 
tuty  castle,  where  Henry  IV.  took  refuge  from  his  sons, 
and  wliich  was  held,  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  by 
Swedes,  Spauiai*ds,  Germans,  and  Lorrainers.  In  1660 
the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  destroyed  this  too  powerful 
ne^bor.     Roman  niins  4  M.  E. 

Andernach  {Hotel  Hackenbmch ;  Glocke),  on  the 
W.  bank,  lias  narrow  streets,  ancient  walls,  a  many- 
towered  Romanesque  ch.  (1206),  and  a  lofty  watch- 
tower,  built  in  1414-68,  and  breached  by  French  guns 
hi  1688.  It  was  one  of  the  50  forts  of  Drusus;  re- 
captured from  the  Alemanui  by  Julian  in  389 ;  a 
royal  Franoonian  residence  in  the  6th  century ;  an  im- 
perial town  later ;  stormed  by  Cologne  troops  m  1496 ; 
and  burned  by  the  French  in  1688.  The  deep  moat 
and  massive  towei-s  of  the  castle  rcmain  (see  Long- 
fellow's Rypenoii) .  Excuraion  to  the  Benedictine  Abbey 
of  Laach,  founded  in  1093,  with  magnificent  Roman- 
esque ch.  and  cloisters,  on  the  vast  crater-lake  of  the 
Laach&r  See  (6  M.  around). 

The  Rhine  now  flows  through  a  defile,  between 
Tugged  heights.  Neuwied  (Qold&ner  AvMer ; 
Wilder  Mann ;  Moravian),  on  the  E.,  has  tbe 
palace  and  park  of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  and  a  com- 
munity of  austere  Moravian  Brethren,  with  admira- 
ble schools  and  workshops.  Monrepm  is  a  chateau 
of  the  Prince,  near  by ;  and  Aliwied,  ^  M.  out  (car- 


UP  THE  BHINR  l27 

nage,  4  mks.),  is  a  pictaresque  ruined  castle.  Weiaaen* 
tiivrm  is  opposite  Neuwied,  with  a  white  watch-tower 
roarking  the  hoandaries  of  Treves  and  Colog;ne.  Above 
is  an  obelisk  to  General  Hoche,  erected  bj  a  Erencli 
army  crossing  the  Rhine  in  1797.  Near  Bngers  (E; 
bank)  are  fraj^ments  of  Roman  masonry,  supposed  to 
be  parts  of  Julius  Ceesar's  bridge  across  the  Rbine  {see 
Comniemiaries).  Miihlhofen  ^.  bank)  is  1^  M.  from 
tlie  ruins  of  Sayn  castle,  and  the  great  modem  cha- 
teau of  Sayn,  rich  in  art.  Kesselheim  (W.  bank)  is 
near  Sohonbornaluat,  an  old  palace  of  the  electors  of 
Treves  and  of  the  exiled  Bourbons.  On  Niederwerth 
island,  where  Edward  III.  of  England  lived  in  1337,  is 
an  old  convent  ch.  At  Neuendorf  the  small  timber- 
rafts  from  the  Upper  Rhine  and  Moselle  are  enhinred 
and  strengthened,  before  drifting  Hollandward.  The 
high  fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  now  comes  into  view, 
and  the  palace  of  the  Pnissian  Kinff. 

Coblence  {H6tel  du  Oeant;  BeUefyue;  Anker ; 
Traube),  the  capital  of  Rhenish  Prussia  (30,000 
inhab.),  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle, 
whence  the  Romans  called  it  Confiuentia.  It  is  a  pow- 
erful fortress,  with  heights  crossed  with  enormous  forti- 
fications, and  a  garrison  of  6,000  soldiers.  The  Palace 
was  built  by  the  last  Elector  of  Treves,  and  contains 
interesting  Electoral  Hall  and  Festival  Hall,  with  por- 
traits, tapestries,  etc.  (fee,  Imk.).  The  Mainzer-Thor 
and  others  of  the  city  gates  are  worthy  of  notice.  Si. 
Castor  is  a  handsome  4-towered  basilica,  founded  in 
836  and  rebuilt  in  1208.  Before  it  is  the  historic 
Ctntor  Fountain,  The  Moselle  Bridge  (14  arches)  dates 
from  1344.  The  Rhine  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  boats 
and  by  a  very  fine  rly .  bridge.  The  Arekiepiseopal  Palace 
<now  a  factory)  dates  from  1276;  the  Hebfrauenkircke. 
\tom  the  13 til  century;   the  Merchants'  Hall,  frr 


228  EHRENBREITSTEIN.  —  EMS. 

1480.  The  Ekiue  Promenade  is  a  beautiful  walerside 
park.  The  Kukkep/,  1,190  ft;,  high,  commands  a  grand 
view  over  the  Rhine  and  Moselle  Tallcys.  Fort  Fraas, 
on  the  Petersberg,  and  Foris  Alexander  and  Constanttne 
(superb  view  hence)  guard  the  dtj.  Across  the  Rhine 
is  Bbranbreitstein,  "  Honor's  Broad  Stone  "  (open 
dailv ;  small  fees  for  ticket  and  to  guide), "  The  Gibraltar 
of  tne  Rhine,"  a  vast  fortress  on  a  precipitous  rock, 
387  ft.  above  the  river,  and  oommaHding  a  wonderful 
view.  It  was  granted  by  King  Dagobert  to  the  arch- 
bishops of  Treves  in  636,  and  has  been  beleaguered 
many  times,  but  yielded  only  twice.  The  French  de- 
stroyed the  works  in  1801;  but  they  were  rebuilt, 
1816-26,  at  a  cost  of  J6,000,000. 

Excursiom  from  Coblence.  —  It  is  1  hr.'s  rly.  ride 
(li  mk.,  1  mk.,  70  pf.),  or  7  M.  walk  from  Ehrenbreitsteiu 
toBms  (Hoield'Angleterre;  De  Euseie;  Des  Ouaire 
Saimm ;  De  Vlhirope),  a  little  town  on  the  Lahu, 
amid  wooded  heights.annually  visited  by  12,000  health- 
seekers  (season,  July  15-Sept.  1).  The  waters  (saline 
and  alkaline)  are  beneficial  in  pulmonary  and  female 
complaints,  and  have  been  used  since  1354.  The  Kvr- 
haus  and  Knrsaal  are  the  centre  of  the  exotic  life,  and 
stand  amid  pleasant  gardens. 

Up  the  Moselle,  bjr  steamer  \\1\  M.  (6mks., 
4  mks.),  4  times  weekly,  in  1^  days,  passing  the  night 
at  Trarbach,  and  reaching  Treves  at  3  p.m.  Voyage 
back  to  Coblence,  12  hrs.  (8  mks.,  5  mks.  30  pf.).  Ely. 
t<o  Treves  in  2^  hrs.  (69i  M. ;  fares,  9  mks.,  6  mks. 
80  pf.,  4Jmks.).  The  valley  of  the  Moselle  is  very 
beautiful,  and  interesting  historically.  Over  Gobem  is 
a  wonderftil  pilgrimage-chapel;  over  Brodenba/^h,  the 
splendid    Ehrenborg  ruin;   over   Coehemy  two  fine 

^tles  and  a  monastery;  over  TrarSaek,  the  ancient 
inburff  ;  and  near  Neuma^en,  Roman  ruins. 


UP  THE  MOSELLE^  22» 

i(BM  de  Th'hes;  JRothm  BBtv^,*-  i^t/«0m> 
bourg;  Stadi  Venedig;  Post),  on  the  JHeMlle,  wa» 
the  capital  of  the  TreTiri ;  then  the  Augusta 
TreTirorum  of  the  Romans ;  then  capital  &t  OauU 
and  Rome's  rival  in  art  and  commeice.  This  oldest 
city  of  Gr^many  has  only  26,000  iDhah.;  idthougb 
its  well-preserved  amphiilieatre,  in  which  Conetautine 
delivered  thousands  of  Franks  to  be  torn  by  wild 
beasts  (a.d.  306),  accoraraodates  80,000  spectators. 
The  vast  ruins  of  the  Roman  Bath  were  oonueeted 
with  the  Palace  of  the  Emj^erors.  Tlie  Porta  Nigra  is  ft 
huge  Roman  gateway  of  blackened  sandstone,  115  ft. 
long  and  93  ft.  higlu  The  Cathedral  dates  from  550,  — 
a  vast  structure,  under  which  repose  the  archbishops 
and  electors  of  Treves.  Here  are  preserved  Christ's, 
seamless  robe,  a  nail  from  the  Cross,  a  fn^ment  of  the 
Crown  of  Tliorns.  Cloisters  run  thence  to  the  Lieh^ 
frauenkirehe,  a  beautiful  circular  ch.  (1243y  The 
Basilica,  built  before  Constantine,  successively  a  Ro- 
man  court-house,  exchange,  imperial  governors*  palace,, 
bishops'  palace,  and  barrack,  is  now  a  ch.  The  Mmeum 
and  Town  Library  contain  rare  MSS.,  portraits,  and 
Roman  antiquities.  Rly.  from  Treves  to  Ikionville 
and  iMXembourg  (f  hr.). 

Ascending  the  Rhine  from  Coblence,  CaiptSlenlHofef 
Stolzenfeh;  Lahneek;  Bdlevuey'i^  reached  (W.  banh:), 
over  which  rises  the  royal  castle  of  Stolzenfeh  (en- 
trance, 1  mk. ;  donke,ys  to  ride  up  and  back,  1  mk.  20  pf.)^ 
420  ft.  above  the  Rliine,  with  a  magniiicent  view.  It. 
was  built  in  1250  by  the  Archbishop  of  Treves,  and 
inhabited  by  his  successors.  The  French  destroyed  it 
in  1688 ;  and  since  1823  it  has  been  restored  by  the 
Prussian  King.  Rich  historical  frescos  in  Chapel  and 
Knights'  Hall ;  many  rare  old  pictnres  imd  cnnosities. 

Oberlalmstein  {E6tel  Welter;  Wetland;  Lahneck\ 
©pp.  Capellen  (ferry-steamer),  near  the  lately  lestorea 


230  BOPPARD.  — ST.  GOAR. 

«asile  ot  Lahneck.  Above  Capellen  is  KoaigMKttllil, 
where  the  4  Rhenish  Electors  used  to  meet,  in  open 
air,  to  elect  emperors  and  conclude  treaties.  The  Em- 
.  peror  Charles  IV.  built  a  castle  here  in  1876.  Farther 
up  is  Rbease  {W.),  with  walls  and  a  moat  consti-ucted 
by  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  in  1370.  Braubach  is 
under  Marksburg,  an  imposing  castle  492  ft.  above 
the  Rhine,  founded  before  1400,  and  still  unuijured 
«nd  inhabited.     Old  Swedish  and  French  cannon  here. 

Boppard  {Zum  Spiegel;  Hir9th;  Glosmann;  Ehein- 
-iseher),  on  the  W.  bank,  was  a  Celtic  town  ;  forti- 
fied by  Che  Romans,  and  named  Baudobrica ; 
headquarters  of  the  13th  Legion;  seat  of  a  lodge 
of  Knights  Templar ;  and  an  Imperial  town.  The 
inner  wall  is  Roman,  the  outer  wall  mediseval ; 
and  the  two  churches  date  from  1200  and  1500. 
^he  high-placed  Marienberg,  formerly  a  Benedictuie 
nunnery,  is  now  a  water-cure.  The  situation  is  lovely, 
in  a  broad  bend  of  the  Rhine,  above  which  the  mts. 
recede,  giving  place  to  rich  meadows  and  green  fields. 
"Opposite  pretty  Salzig,  famous  for  cherries,  are  twin 
rocky  peaks,  wliereon  rise  the  ruined  castles  of  Stern- 
berg  and  Idebemtein,  to  which  attaches  the  legend  of 
CJonrad,  Heinrich,  and  Hildegarde.  Over  Welmich  (E.) 
rises  the  castle  of  Thurnberg^  finished  in  1363,  and  then 
derisively  called  The  Mouse. 

The  handsome  old  town  of  St  Ooar  (founded  in 
570)  is  overlooked  by  the  grandest  ruin  on  the  river, 
the  famous  Rheinfels,  dating  from  1245 ;  besieged  by 
26  Rhenish  towns  in  1255;  held  by  the  Freucli, 
1758-63,  1794-97,  and  blown  up  by  them ;  and  now 
royal  property.  St.  Gtoarahauaen  (steam-fen-y  to 
St.  Goar)  is  under  the  castle  called  The  Cat,  built  in 
1393,  and  blown  up  by  the  French  in  1794.  Many 
charming  excursions  from  either  of  these  towns.  The 
uoble  and  well-preserved  ruin  of  Reichenberg  castle 


OBERWESEL  —  BACHARACH.      231 

(1280)  is  3  M.  E.  The  picturesque  Scam  Valley  is. 
back  of  St:  Goarshausen.  Above  is  the  Iiorlei  rock, 
a  precipice  433  ft.  high,  rising  over  whirlpools  in  the 
deepest  and  nan-owest  part  of  the  Rhine,  and  the  fabled 
seat  of  a  siren  who  lured  sailors  to  death.  Farther  up 
are  the  Seven  Virgins'  rocks,  with  their  grim  legpnd. 

Oberwesel  (metnischer  Hof;  OoldeTier  Pfropfen^ 
siehsr),  on  the  W. ;  a  picturesque  Roman  town,  rich  in 
wine  and  scenery ;  beloved  by  artists,  who  haunt  the 
gray  old  walls,  the  massive  mediaeval  towei-s,  tl»  15th- 
century  Ch.  of  Our  Lady,  with  rare  old  carvings  and 
pictures,  and  the  Cbapel  on  the  riverward  wall,  com- 
memorating a  terrible  deed  in  1286.  Above  all,. 
Schonburg,  the  lofty  castle,  the  birthplace  of  Marshal 
Schomberg,  who  lies  in  Westminster  Abbey.  This- 
maiiy-towered  cradle  of  a  race  of  warriors  was  de- 
molished by  Louis  XIV. 's  troops  in  1689.  Caub,. 
abounding  in  wine  and  salt,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  under 
the  castle  of  Gutenfels,  built  in  1277,  and  destroyed 
in  1807.  Above  is  the  Pfalz,  a  hexagonal  fortress  in 
the  middle  of  the  Rhine,  built  by  Lewis  of  Bavariu 
about  the  year  1200.  Thence  he  used  to  swoop  down 
upon  passing  vessels,  and  exact  tribute.  Hereabouts, 
Bliicher's  and  York's  Prussian  and  Russian  armies 
crossed  the  Rhine,  Jan.  1,-1814. 

Ba.ohaxaoh{mtelWdm8um;Ba8tian;Rdte^Zipperfy 
on  the  Wl  bank;  a  favorite  resort;  its  wines,  celebrated 
in  Longfellow's  Golden  Legend^  still  entitle  it  to  tht; 
name  Ara  Bucchi  (altar  of  Bacchus),  which  tlie  Middle- 
Ages  men  gave  it.  The  great  fire  of  1872  destroyed 
many  rare  old  houses ;  but  the  gray  walls,  deseending- 
from  Stahleck,  still  envelop'  the  town :  and  the  beau> 
tiful  Gothic  ruin  of  St.  Wenie/s  Ch.,  and  the  stately 
Romanesque  Si.  Peter's  Ch.,  of  tlie  Tempkrs,  stP*" 
stand  fast.     Ovei-head  is  Stahleck  castle,  the  hr 


232  LORCH,  —  BINGEN. 

of  the  Counts  Palatine  until  1265,  besieged  ,8  times 
by  the  French  between  1620  and  1640,  and"  blown  w 
in  16&0.  Furstenberg,  another  noble  ruin,  is  near 
by.  Tlie  robber-knights  fired  thence  on  the  ship  in 
which  Adolph  of  Nassau  was  descending  to  Aix-la- 
Ohapelle,  to  be  crowned  Emperor  (1292).  Excursion 
up  the  narrow  Sleeff  valley ;  also  to  Kreuzntfch. 

Lorcli  (II6tel  Schwan:  Krone),  on  E.  bk.,  the  Roman 
LaureacuM,  has  a  Flamboyant  12th-century  ch.,  with 
quaint  monuments  and  fine  bells.  Near  by,  over  the 
beviVs  Ladder  cliff,  is  NoUingeii  castle.  NiederkHm* 
4tach  {W.  baftk)  is  under  Hohneck,  or  Heimburg  castle. 
Above  is  Sooneck  castle,  built  in  1015  by  the"  Arch- 
bishop of  Mayence ;  and  Falkenburgr  or  the  Beichen* 
Mein,  desti'oyed  as  a  robbers'  nest  by  the  Rhenish 
towns  (1251),  and  again  by  Rudolph  of  Hapsbui^,  wi)o 
hung  its  knights  from  the  windows.  Rheiaatein, 
farther  up  ( W.  bank),  is  a  picturesque  castle,  built  be- 
fore 1279,  and  restored  1825-29  by  Prince  Frederick 
of  Prussia,  who  is  buried  here  (entrance,  i  mk.). 

Assmannshausen  (Hotel  Krone/  Kurhatu;  Geir* 
'mania;  Mederwald;  Lamm;  Anker)  on,  the  E., 
exports  aromatic  red  wine  all  over  the  world.  Above 
is  the  rapid  of  the  Binder  Loch,  where  the  raftsmen 
have  Iiai'd  work.  Ehrenfels  (£.  bank)  is  a  high  tower, 
built  in  1210  by  the  Governor  of  the  Rheuigau,  dam- 
aged by  the  Swedes  in  1635,  and  demolished  by  the 
French  in  1689.  Beyond  are  the  terraced  slopes  which 
produce  the  Riidesheim  wine.  Opposite  Ehrenfels,  on 
<iuartz  ledges  in  the  stream,  is  the  MoiuM  Tower, 
where,  as  ^eud  tells.  Archbishop  Hatto  of  Mayeuce 
was  devoured  alive  by  mice  because  he  caused  a  crowd 
of  famiue-strtcken  peasants  to  be  burned  to  death,  com- 
paring thew  to  corn-destroying  mice. 

"Binfi^uilldtel  Victoria  ;BeUevue;  W4i8$e$Iio8s;€FAn- 
-'-Vrrtf),  under  the  heights  at  mouth  of  Nahe,  amid 


Mtrrz.  23a 

charming  scenery,  where  the  Rhine  bends  around  the 
Ni^dmrwaldy  on  which  is  the  new  National  Monument, 
with  huge  bronze  statues,  etc.  On  the  Brmusberg  are 
the  ruins  of  Ktapp^  once  a  Roman  castle,  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  1689.  The  Roohusberg  (341  ft.  high) 
overiooks  the  beautiful  Rheingau;  the  Niederwald 
gives  another  ravishing  view.  Biv.  from  Hiidesheim 
to  Wiesbaden,  Frankfort,  Ems,  and  Nassau ;  and  from 
Bingerbriick  to  Mayence,  Coblence,  Cologne,  and 
Kreusnach  (Hof  von  Holland  ;  AdUr),  a  prettily  situ- 
ated watering-place,  where  6-8,000  persons  to  yearly 
for  the  salt-baths,  efficient  in  cutaneous  troubles. 

From  Brngerbriick  one  can  go,  by  the  Fi*aukfort.Paris 
route,  to  Metz  in  8-9  hrs.  (fares,  17mks.  90  pf., 
13  mks.,  8  raks.  60  pf ),  passing  Kreuznach  ;  Oherstein, 
a  beautiful  village  on  the  Nahe,  devoted  to  polishing 
agates ;  Neunkirchen  ;  and  Saarbruckeny  3  M.  N.  of  the 
battle-ground  of  Spicheren  (1870;  carriage  to  field, 
12  mks.).  MetB  {Hotel  de  V Europe  ;  Be  Metz;  Be 
Parvs),  a  city  of  55,000  iuhab.,  on  the  Moselle,  once  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Austrasia,  was  seized  by  France 
in  1552,  and  regained  by  Germany  in  1870,  after  a  pro- 
longed siege,  and  several  terrible  battles  near  Gravelotte 
audMars-Ta-Tour,  on  the  W.  (see  local  guides).  Since 
then  the  victors  have  gi'eatly  extended  the  vast  fortress. 
The  citizens  are  ultra-French.  The  Cathedral  is  a  mag- 
nificent 13th-century  Gothic  ch.,  with  a  tower  387  u. 
high.  In  front  is  a  statue  of  Louis  XIV. 's  Mai-shal 
Faoert.  Marshal  Ney's  statue  is  on  the  Esplanade, 
near  the  Palace  of  Justice. 

Riidesheliii  {Bheinstein;  Ekrimrd;  DarrMtadt ; 
«^un0').ep.Bingen,has  rich  wines,  far-viewing  heights; 
wild  !<  gends,  and  a  Roman  fortress.  Farther  up 
is  Oeiienheim^  with  monasteries  and  vineyards.  On 
the  heights  is  Jobannisberg,  where,  on  the  site  o' 


234  MAYENCE. 

Benedictine  convent  of  1106,  tlie  Abbot  of  Ealda  built 
a  castle,  afterwards  granted  to  Prince  Mettemick,  and 
now  amid  the  best  vineyards  on  the  Rhine,  and  com- 
uianding  a  superb  view.  Beautiful  walks  from  Ru> 
desheim  hence,  or  to  Mtville.  The  river  scenery  above 
Bingen  is  less  interesting,  and  many  travellers  go  henc<» 
to  Mayence  by  rail  (f  hr.;  by  steamer,  2^  hrs.).  Above 
Geisenheim,  well  in-shore  on  the  r.,  is  Ingelheimy  the 
site  of  Charlemagne's  great  palace,  mtville  (on  the  1.] 
lias  fine  villas  and  venerable  ruins,  and  is  4  M.  from 
the  famous  warm  baths  of  Schlaiigenbad,  From  Bie^ 
brichy  rly.  to  Wiesbaden.  Above  is  Peiersatt,  where 
Louis  the  Pious,  Charlemagne's  son,  died  in  840. 

Bfayence  (Hotel  de  Hollande  ;  IfAngUUrre  ;  Rhein- 
iaeher;  Cologne;  Taunus;  Coblence),  68.000  inhab., 
and  a  strategic  position,  commanding  confluence  of 
Rhine  and  Main  (garrison,  8,000  men).  It  was  the 
Roman  Moguntiacum,  fortified  by  Brusus  (b.c.  14),  and 
headquarters  of  the  14th  and  22d  Legions.  The  Cita- 
del,  on  their  camp-grouud,  has  a  monument  erected  by 
liis  soldiers  to  Drusus,  who  died  here.  Pope  5^charias 
(in  751)  made  St.  Boniface,  the  English  missionaiy. 
Archbishop  of  Mayence  (the  first  German  bishopric) ; 
and  after  1250  "  Golden  Mayence "  originated  and 
lieaded  the  league  of  100  Rhenish  towns.  In  1462 
Archbishop  Adolph  killed  the  foremost  citizens,  and 
Mayence  became  a  mere  archiepiscopal  town.  The 
Fi-ench  repubhcans  took  it  in  1792,  and  it  was  a 
French  town  for  17  years.  In  1814  it  became  Hessian. 
The  Cathedral,  begun  in  978,  and  6  times  burned  and 
restored,  is  a  vast  structure,  with  domes  and  riMud 
towers  (one  324  ft.  high)  and  splendid  bnss  |;atea 
(made  in  1135).  The  interior  is  very  grand,  richlj 
frescoed  (by  Veit),  with  choirs  on  E.  (1175)  and  W. 
^1239),  and  56  columns  upholding  the  vaulting  (opea 


MAYENX'JE.  235 

tai  11.30,  and  3-6).  There  are  scores  of  fine  old  monu- 
ments, including  one  to  Eastroda,  Chariemagne's  wife. 
The  restored  Cloisters,  built  in  1412,  are  the  finest  in 
W.  Germany,  and  contain  Schwanthaler's  monument 
to  the  pious  minstrel  Heinrich  von  Meissen  (died  1318), 
erectea  by  the  women  of  Mayence  in  1842.  Thor- 
waldsen's  statue  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of  printing, 
stands  near  the  Cathedral ;  and  the  house  in  which  he 
was  born  is  not  far  ofi^.  St.  Stephen's  CL  (1257-1318) 
and  cloisters  are  on  high  ground,  and  the  tower  overlooks 
Mayence.  The  Electoral  Palace,  built  1627-78,  and 
used  by  the  French  for  storing  hay,  is  in  the  N.  E. 
quarter,  and  contains  a  rich  museum  (fee,  1  mk. ;  free 
Sun.,  9-1,  Thurs.,  2-5)  of  Roman-Germanic  relics,  a 
library  of  100,000  vols.,  and  a  Picture-Gallery  of  9 
rooms,  with  many  fine  old  paintings  (Titian,  Murillo, 
Holbein,  etc.).  The  Grand-Ducal  Palace,  opposite, 
was  a  Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  and  has  an  arsenal 
attached.  There  are  charming  walks  along  the  river 
and  in  the  Neue  ArUage  park.  Prom  the  pontoon-bridge 
leading  to  the  strongly  fortified  suburb  of  Castel,  see  the 
ancient  water-mills,  moored  to  the  sunken  pillars  of 
Charlemagne's  bridge  (793-803). 

A  Bun  through  North  Q^rmany, 

With  Frankfort  and  Wiesbaden, 

The  traveller  should  now  determine  whether  to^  hasten  on 
to  Switzerland,  or  (which  is  much  better)  spend  a  few  days  in 
Germany,  going  from  Mayence  to  Frankfort,  Weimar,  and 
Berlin  ;  and  thence  down  to  Dresden,  Prague,  and  Tienna ; 
returning  to  the  Rhineland  by  Nuremherg,  Mnnich,  and 
Heidelbo-g.  Tourists  going  direct  to  Switzerland  may  pass 
S.  from  Mayence,  by  Worms  and  Strasburg,  to  Basle,  in  10^ 
14  hrs.,  or  by  Dfurmstadt,  Heidelberg,  Carbrohe,  Baden,  and 
the  Black  Forest. 


236  FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. 

From  Mayence  it  is  f  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  2  mks.  95  pf., 
1  mk.  95  pf.,*l  mk.  30  pf.)  to  the  Prussian  city  of  Frank- 
fort-on-the-Main  {Hotel  de  Frankfort;  De  Russie ; 
Uni&n;Du  Nord.;  B'  AngUterre;  Schwan;  De  BTUxeUes\ 
Hfhich  has  175,000  inhab.,  and  stands  on  a  moimtain- 
girdled  plain.  Charlemagne  held  a  council  here  in  794, 
and  later  sovereigns  granted  high  privileges.  From  1356 
to  1806  this  was  the  place  of  election  for  the  German 
emperors  (beginning  with  Barbarossa),  many  of  whom 
were  crowned  here.  It  was  a  free  city  from  1814 
to  1866,  when  Prussia  annexed  it.  Frankfort  is  a 
handsome  and  agreeable  place,  with  good  society  ar  i 
vast  wealth.  The  ancient  Romer,  or  Town  Hall,  con- 
tains the  Emperors'  Hall,  and  the  room  in  which  the 
electors  met  to  choose  the  emperors.  In  front*  the 
coronation  festivals  were  given.  Up  to  1800  no  Jew^ 
were  allowed  on  this  square.  In  the  Cathedral  (1238) 
the  coronations  took  place.  The  new  Archives  builds 
ing  has  an  historical  museum.  The  bridge  over  the 
Main  (leading  to  Sachsenhamen),  built  in  1342,  has 
a  statue  of  Charlemagne.  The  Saalhof  has  a  chapel  of 
the  Carlovingian  kings.  The  Esrchange  is  a  very  nand- 
some  modern  building.  The  13th-century  chs.  of  St. 
Leonhard  and  St.  Nicholas  are  interesting.  The  house 
in  which  Goethe  was  bom,  and  where  he  wrote  JTerther, 
is  public  property.  His  statue  (with  bas-reliefs)  by 
Schwanthaler  is  near  the  Rossmarkt  square ;  and  there 
is  another  in  the  Town  Library  (150,000  vols.).  The 
Stddel  Institute  has  a  school  of  fine  arts,  collections  of 
engravings,  drawings,  and  casts,  and  several  hundred 
paintings  of  merit  ^pen  daily,  11-2;  catalogue,  1  mk.). 
The  Ariadneum  contains  Dannecker's  famous  Ariadne, 
etc.  (open  daily,  10-1 ;  50-75  pf.).  The  Zeil  is  the 
most  brilliant  street  in  Frankfort.     See  Palm  Garden^ 

Tendid  new  Opera- House^  Natural-History  Museum, 


HOMBURG.  —  WIESBADEN.  237 

and  Zoological  Garden.  The  Judengasse  quarter, 
where  the  persecuted  Jews  lived,  1462-1806,  and 
where  the  Rothschilds  originated,  is  being  modernized. 
Chains  and  gates  formerly  closed  the  streets  at  even- 
inff  and  on  Sundays,  and  no  Jew  was  allowed  outside. 

Trom  Frankfort  it  is  J  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  1  mk.  80  pf., 
1  mk.,  60  pf.)  to  Hombnrg  (Four  Seasons  Hotel; 
Victoria;  BdUme;  Europe;  Adler;  Be  Bussie),  a 
celebrated  watering-place  on  the  Taunus  Mts,  Iron 
and  saline  springs  in  the  superb  gardens  of  the 
Kur&aus  (library,  reading-room,  and  fine  saloons). 
Gambling  was  abolished  here  in  1870.  See  the  castle 
of  the  Landgraves.  If  M.  N.  on  the  mts.  is  a  massive 
Roman  fort,  built  by  Germanicus,  and  a  remnant  of  the 
wall,  150  M.  long,  which  prot/ccted  the  Rhineland. 

From  Frankfort  it  is  1  hr.  by  rly.  (fares,  3  mks.  40  pf., 
2J  mks.,  1  mk.  45  pf.)  to  ^Wiesbaden  (Nassauer  Hof; 
BStd  des  Quatre  Saisons;  lyAngleterre;  Rose;  Adler), in 
the  lovely  valley  of  the  Salzbach,  on  the  vine  and  grove- 
dad  S.  W.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  60,000  visitors 
annually  partake  of  the  warm  saline  waters,  bene^ial 
for  rheumatism  and  gout.  Pliny  mentions  these ^»/?# 
calidi ;  and  the  camps  of  the  14th  and  23d  Legions 
were  near  by.  The  air  is  very  healthy,  and  the  town 
pretty.  Back  of  the  handsome  ICursaal  is  an  extensive 
park,  the  favorite  resort  of  visitors.  See  the  3  palaces, 
the  museum,  and  picture-gallery,  the  library,  the  Gov- 
ernment buildings,  and  the  5 -towered  Goihie  ch.,  with 
its  colossal  statues.  The  Heidenmaner,  N.  W.  of  the 
town»  is  a  Roman  wall,  650  ft.  long,  10  ft.  high,  and 
.  9  ft.  thick. 

FratUrfoft  to  Hanover,  Uamhurg,  and  Bremen, 

From  Frankfort  a  rly.  runs  N.  W.  across  Hesse  (5-^ 
hrs.;  fares,  16  mks.,  12  mks.,  8  mks.),  by  high-wall 
Friedberg ;  the  mineral  springs  of  Nauheim ;  the  r 


238     CASSEL.  —  HANOVER.  —  BRUNSWICK. 

junction  of  Giessen;  and  historic  Marbnxig,  with  its 
splendid  chs.  and  castle ;  to  Cassel  {Hotel  Schirmef), 
tne  beautiful  old  Hessian  capital  (70,000  inhab.),  with 
its  electoral  palaces  and  vast  Museum  Friedertcianum 
j[200,000  vols. ;  myriads  of  gems,  mosaics,  weapons, 
ivories,  etc.).  In  the  Bellevue  castle  is  a  gallery  of 
several  hundred  fine  old  paintings.  WiIhelmahohe» 
4  M.  distant,  is  a  sumptuous  palace,  in  a  park  famous 
for  its  fountains  and  cascades.  Here  Napoleon  III. 
was  imprisoned  in  1870-71. 

Piom  Cassel  it  is  4-5  hrs.  (13  mks.  40  pf.,  10  mks.  10 
|)f.6ink8.70pf.).byG0ttingen,  famous  for  its  univer- 
sity, to  Hanover  ( Victoria;  Royal;  Union),  a  handsome 
city  of  160,000  inhab.,  once  capital  of  Hanover,  and  since 
1866  a  Prussian  ]jrovincial  capital.  See  the  palaces  of 
the  Hanoverian  longs ;  the  Moyal  Library^  of  170,000 
vols. ;  the  handsome  Theatre ;  the  Museums ;  and  nu- 
merous statues  and  monuments.  N.  W.  is  the  imposing 
Palace  of  the  Ouelphs  ;  also,  Herrenhausen,  the  subur- 
ban palace  and  park  of  the  dethroned  dynasty.  Hano- 
ver is  10  hrs.  mxn  Eotterdam,  on  the  route  to  Berlin ; 
and  7-10  hrs.  from  Berlin,  via  Brunswick  (fares,  3  mks. 
80  pf.,  2i  mks.)  and  Magdeburg.  Bnmswick  {Sehra^ 
der^s  Hotel ;  Deutsekes),  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of 
Brunswick,  with  '94,000  inhab.,  has  a  mediseval  air,  with 
its  aiocient  Gothic  Town  Hall ;  St.  Martin's  Ch.,  rich  in 
carvings ;  the  Cathedral,  built  by  the  Crusader  Henry 
the  Lion  in  1173  ;  the  bronze  Lion  monument  (1166) ; 
etc.  The  splendid  new  Ducal  Palace  is  near  the  Ducal 
Museum,  in  which  are  900  pictures,  and  countless  other 
relics  and  curios.  See  also  the  War  MonumetU  and 
the  Theatre,  The  fortifications  have  been  replaced  by 
TOomenades  and  gardens.  Magdeburg  (OnUral 
MoiO)  on  the  Elbe,  has  200,000  inhab. .  and  a  very  cele- 
brated Cathedral  (1208).    Great  cannon-foundiy  near. 


HAMBUBG.  —  BREMEN.  23^ 

Prom  Hanover  it  is  112  M.  (4-5  hrs  ;  fares  16  mks. 
SO  pf.,  12|^  mks.,  8mks.)  by  Lufi^mra^with  its  ancient 
houses  and  chs.»  to  Hamburg  {Hamburger  jffqf  ; 
JBktrope;  Simt'sh  wiiicu  vwiui  a.ltona)  has  510.000 
inhab.,  and  ranks  after  London,  Liverpool,  Glas- 
gow,  and  Antwerp  as  a  eommercial  city.  It  is  on 
the  lower  Elbe,  and  is  the  chief  of  the  3  Hanseatic 
towns.  Charlemagne  founded  a  castle  here  (80d), 
and  Louis  the  Pious  an  archbishopric ;  but  the  city  is 
now  all  modem.  There  are  vast  and  crowded  quays, 
shipyards,  rlys.,  docks,  a  busy  Exchange,  a  Town  Li- 
brary (250,000  vols.),  museums,  monuments,  and  a  good 
Art-Gallery.  The  Bizmen-Alster  is  a  charming  water- 
park,  1  M.  around,  surrounded  by  quays  and  prome- 
nades, lines  of  trees,  and  blocks  of  uandsome  houses 
and  hotels,  and  enlivened  by  many  pleasure-boats  and 
groups  of  swans. 

From  Hamburg,  trains  run  S.  W.,  76  M.  (2i  hrs.;  fares, 
10^  mks.,  7|  mks.,  4rf  mks.),  across  a  poor,  flat  country, 
to  Bremen  {Hillmann's  Hotel;  Be  V Europe ;  Du 
Nord),  another  great  Hanseatic  commercial  town,  on 
the  Weser  River,  with  122,000  inhab.  See  the  richly 
decorated  Bathhaus  (1410) ;  the  frescoed  Rathskeller, 
famous  for  wines ;  the  11th-century  Romanesque  C)S!»^4^- 
dral ;  the  KunstAalle,  with  pictures ;  the  splendid  new 
Grotluc  Exchange;  and  colossal  Roland  statue  (1412). 

Frankfort  to  Weimar,  Leipsic,  and  Berlin. 

Time  required,  12-14  hrs. ;  fares,  43  mks.  40  pf.,  3i 
mks.  60  pf.,  22  mks.  40  pf  This  route  passes  through 
Fttlda,  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  capital ;  and  in  5-6  hrs. 
reaches  Biaaiiach  {Oroesherzog  von  Sacksen),  the  quiet 
town  where  Luther  went  to  school.  Near  by  is  the 
VTartburg,  a  lofty  Romanesque  castle,  founded  in  1070, 


540  GOTHA.  —  WEIMAR.  —  LEIPSIC. 

and  lately  restored  and  richly  frescoed.  Here  Luther 
was  hidden,  1521-22,  and  many  reUcs  of  his  sojonm  are 
shown.  4  hrs.  S.,  heyoud  the  Ducal  capital  of  Met- 
ningen^  is  Coburg  {Victoria) ^  a  handsome  Franconian 
eity,  wltli  a  remarkable  castle. 

On  the  Berlin  route  is  Ootha  (Deutseher  Hof),  a 
pleasant  ducal  city,  with  26,000  inhab.  In  and  near 
the  great  Friedemtein  Palace  are  remarkable  collections 
of  antiquities,  coins,  objects  of  art,  sculptures,  engrav- 
ings, a  library  of  200,000  vols.,  and  a  famous  picture- 
gallery.  The  Thuringian  Forest  lies  around  the  Eisenach- 
Ootha  rly.  Brfurt  {Bomischer  Kaiser)  is  an  ancient 
Prussian  fortress,  with  53,000  inhab.,  a  high-placed 
Gothic  Cathedral,  and  the  Attgustinian  Monastery  in 
which  Luther  became  a  monk  in  1505.  Farther  on 
toward  Berlin  is 

Weimar  {Erbprinz ;  Russischer  Hof),  capital  of  the 
grand-duchy  of  Saxe-Weimar,  an  ancient  town  of  20,- 
000  inhab.  Goethe  lived  here  56  vears,  until  his  death 
in  1832 ;  and  his  collections  are  shown.  Schil- 

ler's house  is  open  daily.  Herder  and  Wieland  also 
lived  at  Weimar.  Statues  of  all  these  are  in  the  town  ; 
and  frescos  from  their  works  adorn  the  handsome 
Grand-Ducal  Palace.  Their  busts  and  many  curiosi- 
ties are  in  the  Grand-Ducal  Library  (^170,000  vols. ; 
open  daily).  The  Museum  (open  Apnl-Sept.,  10-4) 
has  mauy  curios  and  paintings.  The  Stadtkirche  (1400) 
has  a  Crucifixion  by  Cranach,  and  the  tomb  of  Herder. 
Schiller  and  Goethe  are  buried  in  the  cemetery,  ^.  of  the 
town.    Farther  towards  Bertin  is 

Iteipsic  {Hotel  Haufe;  De  Bume;  Sedan;  De 

Prusiey  a  city  of  800.000  inhab.,  the  centre  of  the 

German    book-trade»    the    seat    of    high   imperial 

tribunals,  and  the  place  where  3  great  fairs  are  held 

"•.rly,  drawing  many  traders  even  from  Asia  and 


LEIPSIC.  —  BERLIN.  241 

the  Levant.  30,000  strangers  come  to  these  fairs ;  and 
the  auuual  sales  (largely  oi  furs,  leather,  and  cloths)  ex- 
ceed fSOjOOOjOOO.  These  picturesque  exchanges  liave 
been  carried  on  for  over  700  years.  There  are  300 . 
booksellers  and  80  printing-offices  here.  The  Museum 
has  Thorwaldsen's  Ganymede,  and  an  immense  collec- 
tion of  paintings  and  engravings,  mostly  modem  (open 
Sun.,  Wed.,  and  Fri.,  free;  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat., 
i  mk.).  The  Augmteum  is  the  seat  of  the  University, 
which  was  founded  in  1402,  and  has  3,200  students  and 
4  library  of  350.000  vols,  and  4,000  MSS.  See  the  New 
Theatre,  with  beautiful  Corinthian  fa§ade ;  the  FleU- 
ienburg  citadel;  the  Old  Houses  in  the  Grimma'sche 
Strasse  ;  Auerbach's  Keller,  where  part  of  the  scene  of 
Goethe's  Faust  is  laid ;  the  house  in  the  Bruhl  where 
Richard  Wagner  was  born ;  the  Ethnographical  Mmeum^ 
etc.  In  4  Oct.  days  of  1813,  300,000  Prussians,  Aus- 
trians,  and  Russians,  headed  by  their  sovereigns,  de- 
feated Napoleon  and  140,000  Frenchmen  here,  and 
drove  them  out  of  Leipsic.  2,000  cannon  were  en- 
gaged, and  over  90,000  men  were  killed  and  wounded. 
On  the  Leipsic-Magdeburg-Hamburg  rly.  is  Halle 
{Stadt  Hamburg  ;  Kronprim),  with  91,000  inhab.,  and 
a  famous  university  (1,000  students).  In  the  market- 
place is  the  ancient  Rathhaus,  the  many-towered  Ch.  of 
Our  Lady  (1530),  a  clock-tower  276  ft.  high,  and  a 
statue  of  Handel  (bom  at  Halle,  1685). 

Berlin, 

(Central;  KaUerHof;  Continental;  DeEome;de 
r Europe;  Magdeburg;  Grosafurst  Alexander),  the 
capital  of  Prussia  and  of  Germany  (1,500,000 
iuUab.),  is  3-4  lirs.  from  Leipsic,  on  an  uninter- 
esting   sandy   plain,   by  the    river    Spree.     Origi- 


.  242  BERLIN. 

nally  a  Wendish  fisbing-villagc,  and  afterwards  a  Han- 
seatic  town,  it  was  notably  improved  by  the  Great 
Elector  (1640-88),  and  by  Frederick  the  Great  and 
his  predecessor  (1713-86).  Since  1861,  when  the 
present  King  was  crowned,  the  population  has  doubled, 
and  the  arts  and  trades  have  flourished  remarkably. 

The  best  part  of  the  city  may  be  seen  by  walking 
down  the  Unter  den  landen,  a  broad  avenue,  1  M. 
long,  with  double  rows  of  lime-trees,  from  the  Bran- 
denburg Gate  to  the  Royal  Palace.  The  Gate  is 
•  an  imitation  of  the  Propylsea  at  Athens,  crowned  by 
a  fine  statue  of  Victory  with  horses.  This  was  taken 
to  Paris  in  1807  as  a  trophy.     Outside  is  the  TAier- 

farten ;  and  inside  is  the  Pariser-PlatZy  with  Prince 
Jliicher's  palace  on  the  S.,  and  the  French  Embassy  on 
the  N.  There  are  several  other  embassies  and  psJaces 
on  the  Linden,  with  various  government  buildings. 
The  Florentine  palace  of  Count  Redem  contains  a  fine 
picture-gallery.  See  also  the  Aquarium^  the  splendid 
arcade  of  the  Kaiser- Gallerie,  and  the  Cafe  Bauer. 
The  bronze  statue  of  Frederick  the  Great,  by  Ranch, 
is  called  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  Europe.  The  King 
is  on  horseback,  in  his  coronation-robes ;  and  the  lofty 
pedestal  is  surrounded  with  life-size  statues  of  his  gen- 
erals, princes,  etc.  To  the  S.  is  the  Emperor's  Palace, 
in  which  is  the  Royal  Library  (open  daily,  11-4),  with 
900,000  vols,  and  16,000  M^S.  N.  is  the  Academy  of 
Art,  where  exhibitions  take  place  in  Sept.  and  Oct. ; 
and  the  Academy  of  Science  ;  also  the  University  (3,000 
students),  once  Prince  Henry's  palace,  and  partly  en- 
closing gardens  in  which  are  statues  of  the  Humboldts. 
Fine  anatomical,  mineral,  and  zoological  collections 
here ;  and  a  library  of  100,000  vols.  The  Opem  Platz 
contains  statues  of  5  generals,  by  Rauch,  and  is 
bounded  by  the  Palace,  University,  Opera  House,  and 


BERLIN.  243 

St.  Hedunff*8  Ch.,  an  imitation  of  the  Roman  Pantheon. 
Farther  E.,  on  the  Linden,  at  the  r.  is  the  Cfoum- 
Ffinee's  Palace ;  and  at  the  1.  is  the  Royal  Guard- 
House  (military  music  daily,  11-12),  a  copy  of  a 
Roman  fortified  gate.  Back  of  this  is  the  Singing- 
Academy ;  and  on  one  side  is  the  handsome  Arsenal^ 
with  many  rare  trophies  of  war.  Close  by  is  the 
Schloss  bridge,  adorned  with  8  groups  of  statuary, 
and  leading  to  the  Lmtgarten,  a  park  m  which  stands 
an  e^uestnan  statue  of  Frederick  William  III.  On 
one  side  is  the  Royal  Palace,  a  vast  double  quadrangle, 
built  since  15*0,  and  containing  600  rooms  (open  dadr, 
10-1).  See  Swiss  Hall,  King^s  Hall,  Red-Eagle  Hall, 
Throne  Hall  (throne  of  solid  silver,  8  ft.  high),  Black 
Eagle  Hall,  Picture  Gallery  (fine  modern  battle-paint- 
ings), White  Saloon  (statues  of  the  12  Electors),  and 
Chapel,  rich  in  alabaster  and  gems,  and  splendidly 
frescoed.  The  adjacent  Cathedral  contains  tlie  royal 
tombs.  Opposite  the  palace  is  the  Old  Mnaeum,  the 
finest  building  in  the  city,  with  a  grand  Ionic  portico, 
adorned  with  colossal  bronze  groups,  and  richly  fres- 
coed halls  (open  daily,  10-4).  See  the  vast  collections 
of  antiquities ;  the  halls  of  Greek,  Roman,  mediaeval, 
and  modem  sculptures ;  and  the  Hall  of  the  Heroes. 
The  New  Museum  is  entered  from  the  Old,  and  contains 
Kaulbach's  famous  mural  paintings,  the  Egyptian  mu- 
seum, an  immense  collection  of  casts,  12  cabinets  of 
Northern  antiquities,  4  rooms  of  objects  of  art,  and 
500,000  engravings.  It  has  a  Renaissance  facade  to 
the  E. ;  ana  opposite  is  the  new  Corinthian  temple  of 
tlie  National  Gallery  (open  daily,  11-3^  which  con- 
tains a  magnificent  and  world-renownea  collection  of 
ancient  and  modem  paintings. 

The  Friedricha-Stadt  is  the  business  centre  of 
Berlin,  and  the  streets  in  this  section  are  interesting. 


244  BERLIN. 

The  Theatre  is  a  classic  structure,  on  the  SchiUer-PIatz, 
with  several  fine  bronze  groups ;  in  front,  a  noble 
statue  of  Schiller.  The  Wilhehistrasse  contains  notable 
palaces ;  and  in  the  Wilhelms-Platz  are  statues  of  6  of 
Frederick  the  Great's  generals.  The  Palace  of  Prince 
Charles,  fronting  here,  has  a  museum  of  weapons.  On 
the  busy  Leipziger-Strasse  are  the  War  and  Naty  Officee 
and  the  Hall  of  the  Imperiat  Diet  (built  in  1871).  Just 
beyond  the  Leipziger-Platz  (several  statues)  is  the 
Fotsdam  Gate,  near  the  Botanical  Gardens  (1  mk.)  and 
the  Industrial  Museum  (open  daily,  10-3).  Near  the 
Halle  Gate  is  the  Belle  Alliance  Plats,  with  the  lofty 
ffranite  Column  of  Peace  (1840),  surrounded  by  splen- 
did marble  groups.  |  M.  outside  is  the  Kreuzberg^ 
with  a  tall  iron  obelisk. 

S.  of  the  Schloss-Briicke  is  the  Academy  of  Architec- 
ture (600  students),  with  museum.  N.  is  the  Schinkel- 
Flatz,  with  3  bronze  statues.  The  Artists'  Union  has 
a  large  picture-gallery ;  and  near  it  (92-93  Wall-St.) 
is  RavenS's  Gallery  of  modern  pictures.  The  Kurfur- 
sten  Bridge  leads  from  the  square  S.  of  the  Eioyal 
Palace  into  old  Berlin,  where  are  the  Imperial  Post- 
Office  and  the  14tli-century  Ch.  cif  St.  Mary.  The 
Uathhaus  (open  11-3)  is  an  immense  Romanesque 
buildiug  of  brick  (1860-70),  with  a  tower  276  ft.  high, 
and  several  handsome  halls.  Underneath  is  the  Raths" 
teller,  a  great  refreshment-room.  Opposite  the  Museum 
is  the  Exchange,  a  sumptuous  Renaissance  building, 
with  the  greatest  hall  in  Berlin,  richly  frescoed.  Be- 
yond the  Hercules  Bridge  (on  which  are  statues  by 
Schadow)  is  Monbijou,  a  beautiful  royal  palace,  in 
which  is  an  historical  museum  (daily,  10-5).  Near 
by  is  the  great  Synagogue,  Moorish  in  style. 

The  splendid  Konigs-Platz  adjoins  the  Thiergarten, 
^  contains  the  Monument  of  Victory,  190  ft.  high, 


POTSDAM.  245 

commemorating  tlie  battles  of  1870-71.  The  Raczynski 
Palace,  on  the  W.,  has  a  famous  picture-gallery  (open 
daily,  11-3).  The  Avenue  of  Victory,  Berlin^s  favorit-e 
promenade,  leads  through  the  Thiergarten,  a  park  2 
M.  long  and  \  M.  wide,  with  many  ponds  and  groves, 
of  large  trees.  Here  are  beer-gardens  and  summer- 
theatres,  and  monuments.  At  the  end  is  a  large 
Zoological  Garden.  Horse-cars  run  through  it  (3  M. ; 
\  hr.)  to  Charlottenburg,  a  large  town  with  a  Palace 
(1699)  in  a  handsome  garden,  and  a  Mamolenm,  with 
sculptures  by  illustrious  masters.  In  Berlin's  Old 
Trinity  Cemetery,  Mendelssohn  is  buried ;  and  in  Trinity 
Cemetery,  Schleierraacher  and  Neander.  Cornelius  rests 
in  Hedwicf^s  Cemetery;  Ranch,  Schadow,  Schinkel, 
Hegel,  and  Fichte,  in  the  Old  Borotheenstadt  Cemetery  ; 
and  the  Humboldts,  at  Tegel. 

Potsdam  is  16  M.  from  Beriin  (J  hr. ;  fares,  2  mks. 
10  pf.,  1  mk.  60  pf.,  1  mk.  5  pf.),  among  wooded  hills 
ana  the  lakelike  expanses  of  the  Havel.  Here  is  the 
Sanssouci  Palace,  built  by  Frederick  the  Great,  and 
full  of  reminiscences  of  him.  Near  by  are  the  Picture- 
Gallery,  the  Orangery  (adorned  with  fine  statuary), 
and  the  Sicilian  Garden.  The  New  Palace  (1750)  has 
"200  richly  adorned  rooms,  with  fine  paintings,  and  a 
noteworthy  Marble  Saloon.  The  Maxble  Palace  is  N. 
of  Potsdam,  and  has  many  paintings.  Babelsberg  is 
a  new  Gothic  palace,  with  rich  art-treasures.  The 
Royal  Palace  (1660)  is  full  of  relics  of  the  Great 
Frederick.  The  Garrison  Church  contains  his  tomb 
and  military  trophies.  The  Church  of  Peace  is  a  noble 
Ionic  basilica,  with  masterpieces,  of  sculpture.  The 
famous  Sanssouci  fountains  plav  on  summer  Sunday 
afternoons.  There  are  several  chateaux  of  princes 
»ear  Potsdam  (50,000  inhab.). 


t346  DBESDEN. 


Dresden  and  Prague. 

Express-trains,  Berlin  to  Dresden,  8  hrs.  (108  M, ; 
15  mks.  70  pf.,  11  mks.  70  pf..  8  mks.  30  pf.). 

Dresden  (Hdtel  BeUetme;  Victona ;  Central  j 
Grand  Union;  Berlin;  Borne;  Europe;  Oot?ia ; 
Weber^s),  *'The  German  Florence,"  has  275,000 
inhab.,  and  has  been  the  capital  of  Saxony 
«ince  1485.  Many  British  and  American  families 
dwell  here,  induced  by  the  abundant  facilities  for 
culture  and  amusement,  and  also  by  tlie  cheapness  of 
living.  The  Elbe  is  crossed  by  2  stone  bridges,  and 
'joi-dered  by  the  popular  promenade,  the  Briihl  Ter- 
race, adorned  ^rith  statuary  and  trees.  Here  front 
the  Synagogue,  the  Art  Academy,  the  Exhibition 
Buildings,  and  the  Court  Ch.  (famous  music.  Sun., 
11-12  and  4) ;  and  the  Botanical  Garden,  the  new 
Law  Courts,  Si.  JohrCe  Ch.,  and  the  Maurice  Monunieni 
are  near  by.  Near  the  Court  Ch.  are  the  new  Theatre 
(with  statues)  and  the  Guard  Howe.  The  Palace 
(1534)  is  an  irregular  double  quadrangle,  with  a  tower 
361  ft.  high,  and  a  richly  frescoed  Throne  Boom.  The 
^h-een- Vault  (9-2  daily;  catalo^e,  1  mk.)  contains 
the  largest  existing  collection  of  objects  of  art,  bronzes, 
ivory  carvings,  mosaics,  enamels,  gems,  crystal,  and 
magnificent  plate ;  also  the  regalia  of  Poland  and  Sax. 
ony,  superb  state  swords,  and  precious  stones  of  enor- 
mous value ;  and  works  of  Diirer,  Angelo,  and  CeUini. 
The  Museum,  near  the  Theatre,  is  a  Renaissance 
building,  decorated  with  statues  and  sculptures,  and 
containmg  the  finest  picture-gallery  N.  of  Italy  (open 
daily;  catalogue,  2^  mks.).  Uere  are  2,400  paintings, 
including  the  Sistine  Madonna,  Correggio's  ia  Notte, 
md  Titian's  Tribute  Money ;    and  choice  vnrks  of 


SAXON  SWITZERLAND.  24T 

MurillOj  Diirer,  Teniers,  Veronese,  etc. ;  also,  350,000 
engravings,  a  great  museum  of  casts,  collections  in 
natural  historjr  and  mineralogy,  and  the  most  interest^ 
ing  Historical  Museum  in  Germany  (ancient  weapons^ 
armor,  furniture,  and  trophies  of  war).  See  the  Eng- 
lish ch. ;  the  stone-domed  Ch.  of  Our  Lady ;  the  Cross 
Ch.,  with  tower  346  ft.  high,  and  fountains  and  statues 
in  the  streets.  Monument  to  the  War  of  1870-71,  in 
the  Old  Market. 

The  Japanese  Palace,  across  the  Elbe,  contains 
the  Royal  Idbrary,  with  276,000  vols.,  4,000  MSS.. 
and  many  rare  old  books  and  maps  (free  Wed.  and 
Sat.,  10-12 ;  other  days,  i  mk.) ;  the  Collection  o/ 
Porcelain  (15,000  pieces  of  Dresden,  Sevres,  and  Ori- 
ental wares ;  open  daily) ;  and  collections  of  coins  and 
antiquities.  In  the  rear  is  the  pretty  Japanese  Garden^ 
near  which  Komer  was  born  and  Schiller  dwelt.  The 
Gkosse  Oarten  is  a  royal  park  of  300  acres,  wherein 
the  French  and  Prussians  fouffht  in  1813.  Hei*e  is^ 
the  Zoological  Garden  i  also  a  chateau  with  Museum  of 
Antiquities,  and  Rietschel  Museum  of  sculptures  (both 
open  daily).  Schlegel  and  Weber  are  buried  in  the 
Catholic  Cemetery.  The  monument  where  Gen. 
Moreau  was  mortally  wounded  is  1^  M.  S. ;  and  the 
MoritzhurQy  a  royal  hunting-lodge,  is  6  M.  N.  FiUnitz 
(7  M.)  is  a  handsome  royal  chateau.  Many  charming^ 
suburban  excursions. 

The  Sazon  Switzerland  is  a  beautiful  mt.  region, 
4-500  square  M.  in  area,  filled  with  grotesque  sand* 
stone  peaks  and  gorges,  .and  traversed  by  the  Elbe. 
A  2-days'  tour  leads  from  Dresden  to  Potzscha  (f  hr. 
by  rly.) ;  thence  (1^  hr.)  to  the  Bastei,  a  hotel-crowned 
peak,  overlooking  the  whole  region  and  the  Elbe  vallef » 
thence  (5  lira.)  to  Sckdndau,  a  summer-resort  (8  hoter 
in  the  heart  of  the  mts. ;  aiod  thence  (1  day)  by  ^ 


1J48  PRAGUE. 

Licktenhain  Fall  and  the  Kuhsiall  and  Prebischthor 
peaks,  to  Kbnigstein,  a  lofty  and  imposing  Saxon  for- 
tress.  It  is  5-7  lirs.  (fares,18  mks.  70  pf.,  14  mks.  10  pf., 
'9  mks.  40  pf.)  up  the  Elbe  valley  and  through  the 
Saxon  Switzerland,  by  Firna  and  Konigsteiny  with  their 
fortresses,  and  Bodenbach  (2^  hrs.  from  the  Schneeberg, 
and  opposite  the  handsome  castle  of  Teschen),  from 
Dresden  to 

Prague  {Englischer  Hof;  Grand;  Schwartzes  Bou; 
Blatter  Stern;  Victoria;  Goldener  Engel),  the  capi- 
tal of  Bohemia  (250,000  inhab).  situated  on  hills 
4iear  the  Moldau  River,  f  of  the  people  are  Bohemians, 
and  the  Germans  are  very  unpopular.  The  city  was 
founded  by  the  Duchess  Libussa.  Here  Huss  and 
Jerome  preached  the  Reformation,  which  took  firm 
root  in  Bohemia  until  the  Protestant  arniy  was  crushed, 
just  outside  of  Prague,  in  1620,  by  the  Bavarian  forces 
of  the  Roman-Catholic  League.  The  palace  of  the 
Bohemian  kings  is  now  an  Austrian  barrack ;  and  the 
K)ld  Hussite  ch.,  the  Teynhirchey  containing  Tyclro 
Brahe's  tomb,  is  now  Roman.  In  front  of  the  Rath- 
haus  27  Protestant  Bohemian  nobles  were  executed,  in 
1620 ;  and  11  of  Wallenstein's  officers,  in  1633.  See 
the  Palace  of  Count  Clam  Gallas ;  the  Gothic  Fulver- 
thurm  tower ;  the  gi*eat  Jesuit  College ;  the  ancient 
University y  founded  in  1348;  the  Bohemian  National 
Museum;  the  Bjossmarkt^  a  grand  street  adorned  with 
statues;  the  Neustadt  Raikhaus,  where  the  Hussite 
wars  began ;  the  Jews*  Quarter ^  with  9  synagornes  and 
a  very  ancient  cemetery;  and  the  Wysschraa  citadel. 
The  Charles  Bridge  (1357-1507),  with  16  arches, 
towers  of  defence  (on  one  of  which  the  heads  of  the 
Protestant  nobles  were  exposed  for  10  years),  and  30 
-statues  of  saints,  crosses  the  Moldau  to  the  splendid 
ftadetzky  Monument  (made  from  Italian  cannon)  and 


CARLSBAD.  —  TEPLITZ.  249 

the  Jesuit  Ch.  On  the  rocky  heights  above  is  the  mar- 
vellous Hradschin,  where  stands  the  Cathedral  (1344 
-85),  containing  the  marble  and  alabaster  mausoleum 
(1589)  of  the  Bohemian  kings;  the  toml^  of  St.  Adal- 
bei-t,  St.  Vitus,  St.  Wenzel,  and  several  Sclavonic 
kings,  and  many  rare  mosaics  and  paintings.  The 
great  Imperial  Palace  (open  daily,  11-1,  Ifl.)  con- 
tains portraits,  ancient  halls,  and  the  Council  Chamber 
from  which  the  imperial  councillors  were  thrown, 
causing  the  Thirty  Xears'  War.  In  the  Sternberg 
Pala-ce  is  a  collection  of  350-400  paintings  (open 
daily).  The  vast  Czernin  Palace  is  now  a  barrack. 
Near  it  is  a  Capuchin  monastery,  with  a  chapel  copied 
after  the  Casa  Santa  at  Loretto.  Higher  up  is  the 
wealthy  and  imposing  Abbey  of  Strahow,  with  the 
tombs  of  St.  Norbert  and  Gen.  Pappenheim,  a  painting 
by  Diirer,  a  fine  library,  and  splendid  views  over 
Prague,  the  Moldau  plain,  and  the  Giant  Mts.  Below 
the  Belvedere,  an  imperial  villa  (1536)  with  Bohemian 
historical  frescos,  are  Wallenatein's  Palace  (1636) 
and  the  Nostitz  Palace,  containing  400  paintings. 

Carlsbad  (^Anger's  Hotel;  De  Russia;  Stadt  Han- 
nover;  Paradies),  6-7  hrs.  rly.  ride  W.  of  Prague,  is 
visited  bv  over  20,000  people  yearly,  who  find  the  sul- 
phur ana  saline  waters  beneficial,  and  the  pretty  scen- 
ery of  the  TepI  glens  and  pine  woods  very  charming. 

Teplitz  {^Sta^t  London;  Post),  3-4  hrs.  from  Dres- 
den, and  4-5  hrs.  from  Prague,  is  another  famous 
watering-place,  with  warm  alkaline  springs,  used  for 
bathing.  The  scenery  is  mountainous  and  picturesque ; 
and  ruined  castles,  hill-top  inns,  and  rich  abbeys 
abound.  From  Prague  to  Munich  is  a  ride  of  11-12 
hrs.  (38  mks.  90  pf.,  30  mks.  60  pf.,  21^  mks.).  From 
Prague  you  can  go  to  Vienna  by  night-train  (217  M. ; 
8-10   hrs. ;  fares,  18  mks.  70  pf ,  13  mks.  70  pf.),  v' 


250  VIENNA. 

Tabor  and  Gmuud.      Berlio  to  Breslan  and  Viemia^ 
18-20  hrs.    Dresden  to  Znaim  and  Vienna,  li  his. 

Vienna. 

Hotels — Imperial;  Archduke  Charles;  Grand; 
Metropole  ;  De  France  ;  Frankfurt  ;  ideissl  ; 
Munsch;  London;  Klomser  ;  Be  V Europe  ;  Wei- 
sses  Boss;  Victoria  ;  Englischer  Hof, 

RestanrantB.  —  Vienna  is  an  expensive  town,  and  a  few 
hints  may  be  osefol.  There  is  no  obligation  to  take  more 
than  the  fii-st  breakfast  in  the  hotels  where  you  lodge. 
Sacher's,  near  the  Opera,  is  a  capital  restanrant ;  Breying*s, 
in  the  Graben ;  Dreher's,  close  to  the  Opera ;  and  some  of 
the  cafe-rcstanrants  on  the  Ring,  are  good.  The  Viennese 
sap  from  9  to  11 ;  and  the  traveller  shoold  not  fail  to  take 
supper  in  one  of  the  concei*t-hall8,  frequented  by  very  good 
society.  The  tabl€-d^h6te  is  not  general.  Very  good  din- 
ners can  be  had  at  the  restaurants,  at  fixed  prices.  The 
Austrian  wiaes  most  in  use  are  the  Voslauer  (red)  and  the  Gum- 
poldskirchener  (white).  The  Hungarian  wines  are  Erlauer^ 
Carlowitzer,  and  Ofener  (red);  and  Tokayer  and  Raster 
(white). 

CaxTiages  (2-hor8e),  1  fl.  for  a  drive  within  the  city 
limits.  1^  fl.  an  hr.;  l-horse,  1  fl.  20  kr.  an  hr.  Drivers 
expect  a  liberal  gratuity.  HoxBe-cara,  with  smoking- 
compartments,  run  around  the  Ring,  the  Frauz-Josepjh- 
Quai,  and  across  the  Aspem  Bridge  to  the  Prater  (fare,  121ar.). 
The  rly.  termini  are  all  joined  by  a  circular  connecting  line. 

The  capital  of  Austria  and  Hungary,  with  upwards 
of  1,400,000  inhab.,  stands  on  a  mountain- walled  plain 
near  the  Danube  River,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest, 
most  enterprising,  and  most  interesting  of  European 
cities.  Vienna  was  first  a  Celtic  Tillage ;  then  a  Roman 
fort,  where  Marcus  Aurelius  died  (180) ;  left  a  deso- 
lation by  the  Huns;  made  a  fief  of  the  empire  by 
"harlemagne;   occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Austria   in 


VIENNA.  251 

1156;  enriched  by  the  Crusades;  fortified  in  1251;  oc- 
cupied by  the  Hapsburgs  in  1276 ;  besieged  by  the 
Turks  in  1529  and  1683 ;  occupied  by  the  French  in 
1805  and  1809  ;  and  in  the  power  of  Prussia  in  1866. 

The  Church  of  St.  Stephen,  at  the  centre  of 
Vienna,  built  of  limestone,  1300-1510,  and  restored 
in  1860.  The  nave  is  354  ft.  long  and  89  feet  high  ; 
and  its  rich  groined  roof  rests  on  huge  pillars, 
adorned  with  100  statuettes.  See  the  old  imperial 
burial-vault,  the  tomb  of  Prince  Eugene  of  Savoy,  the 
stone  pulpit  (1512),  the  sarcophagus  in  the  Thekla 
Choir,  the  carved  choir-stalls,  ana  the  stained  windows. 
Great  catacombs  beneath.  On  the  outside,  see  Giant's, 
Eagle's,  and  Bishop's  Doors,  tomb  of  the  Meistersanger, 
pulpit  of  Capistranus,  and  Heathen  towers.  The 
tower  is  453  ft.  high  (20  kr.),  and  the  guides  point  out 
thence  the  battle-fields  of  Wagram  and  Essfing.  At 
the  corner  of  the  Qraben,  the  chief  business  and  shop- 
ping street,  is  the  Stock  am  Bisen,  a  pine-tree  stump 
full  of  nails,  driven  on  account  of  an  ancient  custom. 
In  the  Graben  is  the  grotesque  Trinity  Column  (1693). 
The  Kohlmarkt  is  a  street  of  shops,  leading  to  the  Im- 
perial Palace.  The  Ring  is  the  ma^mficent  boule- 
vard, 165  ft.  wide  aud  2  M.  long,  which  (with  the 
Quay  on  the  Danube  Canal)  surrounds  the  inner  town, 
and  occupies  the  place  of  the  old  ramparts  and  glacis. 
Beginning  at  the  Aspem  Bridge,  it  passes  between  the 
great  barracks  and  the  Custom  House.  The  next 
section,  the  Stuben-Ring^  passes  the  handsome  new 
Austrian  Museum  (open  daily),  with  9  rooms, 
crowded  with  choice  works  in  gold,  brass,  iron,  ivory, 
bronze,  topestry,  leather,  etc.,  and  painting  and  stat. 
uary.  This  German  S.  Kensington  is  joined  by  a 
corridor  to  the  Technical  School,  near  which  is  a  statue 
of  Pallas  Athene.    The  Park-Ring  runs  between  the 


262  VIENNA. 

})retty  Stadt  Park,  where  the  Strausses  may  often  be 
leard,  and  the  Horticultural  Palace,  behind  which  are 
the  splendid  modem  palaces  of  the  Duke  of  Coburg 
and  the  Archduke  WiUiara.  Th^  Kolaicrat-Ein^  msses 
the  Casino  (the  club  of  the  nobility)  and  the  uothic 
Academie  Gymnasium.  From  the  Schwartzenberg-Platz, 
with  its  monument  and  ducal  palaces,  the  Kdrnthner- 
Ring  passes  the  Imperial  and  Grand  Hotels,  the  beauti- 
ful building  of  the  Musical  Union,  and  the  Renaissance 
Artitts*  House  (exhibitions  of  paintings).  The  busy 
Opern-Bin^  leads  by  the  magnmcent  Opera  House, 
the  best  in  Germany,  with  sumptuous  frescos  and 
decorations;  and  the  Palace  of  the  Archduke  Albert,  in 
which  is  the  Albertina  (open  Mon.  and  Thurs.,  9-2), 
a  collection  of  40,000  books,  200,000  engravings,  and 
hundreds  of  drawings  by  Eaphael,  Rubens,  Diirer,  etc. 
The  Burg-Mng  is  between  tne  huge  new  buildings  of 
the  Imperial  Museums  and  the  Imperial  Palace.  The 
FranzenS'Rina  passes  the  Volksgarten,  a  popular  park, 
with  a  temple  containing  Canova's  Theseus.  Near  it 
is  the  superb  Vptive  Ch.,  commemorating  the  Em- 
peror's escape  from  assassination  in  1853,  and  adorned 
with  twin  spires,  abounding  in  statues,  and  345  ft. 
high,  and  wonderful  stained  windows.  Near  by  are 
vast  hospitals,  unrivalled  in  Europe;  and  the  great 
new  buildings  of  the  University,  the  Gothic  Rathhaus, 
the  Courts  of  Justice,  the  Hoibui^  Theatre,  the  Mili- 
tary  Offices,  and  the  classic  Parliament  House.  The 
Schotten-Ring  contains  the  Exohange,  a  new  Renais- 
sance structure  (cost  $2,500,000),  the  vast  Police 
Olilce,  and  the  Stiftungshav^  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  RingTheatre  which  was  burned  with  great  loss  of 
life  in  1881,  and  leads  to  the  Danube  Canal. 
The  Hofbarg,  or  Imp&inal  Palace,  the  home  of 
\stria*s  sovereigns  for  6  centuries,  is  a  vast  and  irreg- 


VIENNA.  251 

ular  group  of  buildings,  with  a  labyrinth  of  courts, 
gates,  and  corridors.  See  the  magoificent  KnigkW 
Rally  in  the  Residetiz;  the  apartments  of  Maria  Theresa; 
ikhe  Riding-School ;  the  Guard-House  (military  musio 
daily,  at  1) ;  the  Auawdinian  Ch.,  with  its  monuments ; 
the  Hofgarten ;  and  the  statues  of  Francis  I.,  Joseph 
II.,  the  Archduke  Charles,  Prince  Eugene,  etc.  The 
Imperial  Library  (open  daily,  9-4)  contains  600,000 
vols.,  20,000  MSS.,  and  300,000  engravings.  The 
Nalnral-Hislori/  and  Mineral  Cahinels  are  very  inter- 
esting. The  Treasury  (open  almost  every  day)  is 
the  most  interesting  in  Europe,  and  contains  the  entire 
regalia  of  Austria,  coronation  robes,  jewel-studded  dec- 
orations, jewelry,  caskets  of  gold,  silver,  and  crystal. 
Napoleon  I.'s  regalia  as  King  of  Italy,  the  sabre  of 
Haroun-al-Raschid,  the  crown  and  sword  of  Charle- 
magne, the  lance  which  pierced  the  Saviour's  side,  etc. 
Among  the  jewels  is  the  Elorentine  diamond,  valued  at 
$300,000. 

The  homely  Capuchin  Gh.  contains  the  Imperial 
Vault  (open  daily ;  gratuity  for  the  poor),  where  you 
may  see  the  coMns  in  whicn  lie  Maria  Tneresa,  Marie 
Louise,  Maximilian  of  Mexico,  and  other  sovereigns. 
Near  by  is  the  Imperial  Printing-Office  (open  Tues, 
and  Fri.,  9-12).  The  University  (4,000  students) 
is  in  the  Franzens-Ring. 

The  suburban  Liechtenstein  Palace  (open  daily, 
9-6)  has  a  gallery  of  1,600  paintings,  with  many 
remarkable  works  of  Rubens  and  Van  Dyck.  The 
Schonborn  Palace  (Mon.,  Wed.,  and  FrL,  9-3)  has 
a  famous  collection  of  pictures ;  and  the  Harrach  Pa!^ 
ace  (Wed.  and  Sat.,  10-4)  contains  400  interesting 
paintings.  There  are  many  very  interesting  ancient 
and  modem  chs.  in  Vienna,  many  palaces,  and  civ' 
and  national  institutions,  monuments,  squares,  a 
bridges,  which  should  be  seen. 


254  VIENNA. 

The  Belvedere,  auimperial  residence.built  in  1098- 
1724,  and  once  inhabited  by  Prince  Eugene  of  SaToy, 
has  a  beautiful  French  garden.  Its  gallery  formerly 
contained  about  1.500  paintings,  including  a  remark- 
able collection  of  early  Italian  and  Venetian  works, 
and  DQrer's  world-renowned  **  Trinity,"  all  of  which 
were  removed  to  the  Imperial  Art  Museum  in  1891. 
The  other  of  the  two  buildings  forming  the  Belve- 
dere, known  as  the  Lower  Belvedere,  contained  the 
famous  Ambras  collection,  removed  in  1889  to  the 
Art-Historj  Museum.  Near  by  is  the  vast  Arsenal, 
with  the  richly  frescoed  Hall  of  Fame,  and  thousands 
of  military  relics  and  trophies  of  the  Turkish,  French, 
Swedish,  and  Italian  wars.  Here  also  are  great  bar- 
nM5ks,  gun-factory,  and  cannon-foundry. 

The  Prater  is  an  immense  forest-park  on  the  E. 
(laid  out  in  1766),  with  cafes,  baud-music,  theatres, 
and  avenues.  On  May  aud  June  afternoons  the  fashion- 
able world  of  Austria  may  be  seen  driving  in  the  Haupt- 
AUee.  Wurstel  Prater  is  the  part  frequented  by  the 
humbler  classes.  In  the  cemetery  of  Wahrirw,  14  M, 
N.  W.  of  the  city,  Beethoven,  Schubert,  and  Grilfpar- 
zer  are  buried;  Mozart  lies  at  8t.  Mant,  and  Gluck  at 
McUzleinsdorf. 

Bchonbrunn  (horse-cars  or  omnibus)  is  a  splendid 
suburban  imperial  residence,  where  Napoleon  I.  had 
his  headquarters,  and  where  his  son  died  (1832). 
Beautifulgardens,  fountains,  statuary,  and  flowers. 
On  the  W.  are  the  villas  of  Hietzing.  Lazenburg 
(J  hr.  by  rly.)  is  another  imperial  chateau  (built  in 
1377)  with  many  interesting  halls  and  monuments. 
The  Kahlenberg,  N.  of  Vienna,  overlooks  the  Danube 
plain,  the  Carpatliians,  and  the  Styrian  Alps.  There 
are  many  other  lovely  excursions  in  the  environs. 


PESTH.  255 


SOUTHEASTERN    EUROPE. 

THIS  interesting  region  is  easily  reached  f  ronl  Yf- 
enna,  whence  steamers  descend  the  Danube  to 
Pesth  in  12-13  hrs.  (starting  at  6.30  a.  m.  ;  fares,  7  fl., 
4J  fl.).  Pesth  to  Vienna,  by  rly. ,  7-8  hrs.  (fares  9  fl. 
60  kr.,  7  fl.  80  kr.  by  express).  The  steamer  passes 
Lobau  island,  where  Kapoleon  and  150,000  soldiers, 
with  700  cannon,  were  encamped  in  1809;  and  the  cas- 
tles of  Deutac/i'AltenburgMatnburg,  and  Thebeny  and 
in  24hrs.  reaches  Presburg  {Gricner  Batcm;  Konig 
wn  Ungarn),  the  former  capital  (48,000  inh.),  on  the 
foot-hills  of  the  little  Carpathians.  In  the  Cathedral 
(1090)  the  Hungarian  kings  were  crowned.  Before  it 
is  a  statue  of  St.  Martin.  See  the  Rathhaus  (1288); 
the  beautiful  Franciscan  Oh.  (1293);  and  the  Museums. 
From  the  ruins  of  the  imperial  palace,  on  the  Schhss- 
berg,  there  is  a  lovely  view  over  the  villages  and  vine- 
yards.   Beautiful  excursions  in  the  vicinity.        ^ 

Below  Presburg  the  shores  are  flat.  Komorn  is  a 
powerful  fortress  (14,000  inhab.);  Oran  (10,000  in- 
hab.)  has  a  lofty-domed  cathedral;  Wiss6grad^2L  ven. 
erable  fortress,  ruined  by  the  Turks;  and  Waitzen^ 
a  vast  modern  cathedral. 

Pesth  {Grand  Eotd  Hungaria;  Queen  of  England; 
De  V  Orient;  Erzherzog  Stephan;  Tiger),  called  also 
Budcb^Pest,.  has,  with  Cfen  (or  Buda),  its  trans- 
Danubian  suburb,  500,000  inhab.  It  is  the  capital 
of  Hungary,  and  the  seat  of  the  Imperial  Diet  and 
the  Courts.  In  commerce  it  is  very  enterprising, 
and  has  a  vast  trade  in  grain.  The  beautiful  modern 
Kenaissance  Academy  (open,  free,  Sun.,  Wed.,  Fri,) 
contains  the   great   National  Gallery  (Esterhazy), 


256  BELGRADE.  —  BAZIASCH. 

with  800  paintings,  50,000  engravings,  and  02,000 
drawings.  The  National  Museum  (9-1)  is  ricli  in 
Roman,  Transjlvanian,  and  Hungarian  antiquities,  and 
bas  200  Italian  and  Dutch  paintings.  The  magnificent 
Redmte  Buildings  are  in  Saracenic  architecture.  See 
the  new  palace  of  the  Diet  {Jja4%dham) ;  the  promenades 
along  the  Danube ;  the  Exchange ;  the  colossal  sculp- 
tureS  Bulls  in  front  of  the  market;  the  new  Cirstom 
House;  the  MargarethenJnsel,  a  pretty  island-park 
(eaf6s  and  military  music) ;  and  various  new  national 
buildings.  A  splendid  suspension-bridge  runs  to  Ofen, 
once  a  Roman  colony,  and  for  150  years  a  Turkish 
town.  Cars  ascend  an  inclined  plane  to  the  new  and 
costly  Eogal  Fala^e  and  the  great  modem  fortress. 
There  are  famous  batbs  in  Ofen,  founded  by  the  Turks, 
near  one  of  which  is  a  mosque. 

Return  to  Vienna  by  rly.;  or  descend  the  Danube 
for  Belgrade,  Bucharest,  ancl  Constantinople.  Steamers 
from  Pesth  to  Orsova  in  50  hrs.  (fares,  24  fl.  10  kr., 
16  fl.  10  kr.),  —  a  superb  trip,  passing  Mohdcs  (12,000 
inhab.),  where  the  Turks  conquered  Hungary  (1526) ; 
Neusatz,  a  fortified  modern  town,  with  19,000  inhab. ; 
Feterwardein,  where  Pet«r  the  Hermit  preached  the 
First  Crusade ;  CarUncitz,  with  a  Greek  cathedral  ; 
and  Sernlin,  where  is  Hunyadi's  castle. 

Belgrade  {Hotel  de  Paris),  the  capital  of  Servia, 
has  40,000  inhab. ,  a  quaint  Oriental  town, with  narrow 
streets  curving  under  a  fortress-crowned  rock.  See 
the  Konak  of  the  Prince;  the  busy  street  Milan:  the 
mosques.    Tlie  Turks  evacuated  Belgrade  in  1867. 

4-5  hrs.  below  is  Baziasch,  the  end  of  the  rly.  from 
Pesth  (fares,  36fl.  41kr.,  2711.  29  kr.,  18fl.  l6kr.). 
Travellers  often  come  down  this  way,  and  take  steamer 
at  Baziasch,  where  the  Danube  enters  the  magnificent 
•cenery  of  the  Carpathians.     On  the  r.,  in  this  tre- 


ORSOVA.  —  BUCHAREST.  257 

mendous  defile,  is  the  ruined  fortress  of  Qoluhac^y  and 
ancient  Roman  forts.  At  Dtencova  the  rapids  are 
entered.  Servia  is  on  the  r.,  Hungary  on  the  1. 
Through  the  Defile  of  Kasan  the  river  is  500-600  ft. 
wide,  between  immense  rocky  cliffs.  Trajan's  Roman 
Toad  is  on  the  r.  bank ;  and  his  inscription,  commemo- 
rating the  Dacian  campaign,  is  near  the  end. 

Orsova  (^K'dnig  von  Ungam)  is  a  pretty  Wallachian 
Tillage,  just  above  the  famous  Iron  Qates,  where  the 
Danube  plunges  through  a  rocky  canon  1^  M.  long. 
A  rly.  runs  from  Pesth  to  Orsova  (305  M. ;  fares, 
25l65kr.,  19fl.  22kr.,  12ii.  80kr.),  by  Temesvar 
(32,000  inhab.).  From  Vienna  to  Bucharest  by  this 
favorite  route,  29-30  hrs.  (fares,  174.fr.  80  c.,  131ifr. ; 
the  Roumanian  currency  is  like  that  of  France). 

The  through  journejT  from  Pesth  to  Constantinople 
(3  days;  fares,  food  included,  lOSJ  fl.,  75Jfl.)  is  by 
riy.  to  Bayisch,  thence  by  express-steamer  to  Rust<ihuk, 
rly.  to  Varna,  and  steamer  down  the  Black  Sea.  From 
Giargevo,  opposite  Rustchuk,  rly.  to  Bucharest. 

Vimna  to  Bucharest,  —  Fares  16  fl.  62  kr.,  12  fl. 
70  kr.,  9  fl.  79  kr.,  to  Cracow  ( Victoria;  Saxe),  once 
the  capital  of  Poland,  annexed  to  Austria  in  1846. 
Here  is  a  fine  cathedral,  with  the  tombs  of  the  Polish 
kings ;  and  a  huge  mound  made  of  earth,  erected  by 
the  people  in  honor  of  Kosciuszko.  Fares,  16J  fl., 
12  fl.  18  kr.,  6{  fl.,  to  Ziemberg  {Hdtel  de  France/ 
jyAngleterre),  the  capital  of  Galicfa,  with  127,000 
inhab.  and  a  large  university.  Lemberg  to  Ozernowitz, 
12  fl.  64  kr.,  9  fl.  47  kr.,  4  fl.  92  kr.;  Ozernowitz  to 
Roman,  fares  proportional ;  Roman  to  Bucharest,  56  fl. 
20kr.,42lfl..  28fl.  10  kr. 

Bacharest  (Hotel  iFramiti),  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Roumania,  ''  the  Paris  of  the  East,"  has 
221,000  inhab.,  and  is  a  semi  Oriental  town,  divided 


258  GRATZ.  —  TRIESTE. 

into  the  Yellow,  Red,  Green,  Black,  and  Blue  district^ 
or  wards.  See  the  Palace,  Theatre,  War-Office,  Uni- 
versity, the  Ch.  and  Monastery  of  Badu  Vod  (1572), 
the  parks,  the  equestrian  statue  of  Micliael  lU.,  and 
some  of  the  chs. 

Vienna  to  Gratz  and  Trieste. 

Leaving  Vienna  at  7  a.m.,  one  reaches  Trieste  in  14-^ 
hrs.  (fares,  33  fl.  82  kr.,  24  fl.  52  kr.),  crossing  the 
Semmexing  Pass  by  a  wonderfully  picturesque  rly., 
with  30  tunnels  and  viaducts ;  25  M.  of  this  line  cost 
nearly  18,000,000.  Sevnmering  stat.  is  2,892  fl.  above 
the  sea ;  and  here  the  rly.  passes  through  the  crowning 
ridge  by  a  tunnel  1  M.  long,  and  descends  through  the 
narrow  Styrian  valleys  by  Bruck,  where  the  rly.  to 
Venice  diverges,  and  oy  a  score  of  castles,  to 

Oratz  {Elephant;  Golden  Lion),  the  capital  of 
Styria  (100,000  inhab.),  a  pretty,  well-situated,  and 
growing  town,  where  many  retired  Austrian  officers 
live,  flie  Castle  is  400  ft.  above  Gratz,  and  commands 
a  grand  view.  See  the  Hall  of  the  Styrian  Estates,  the 
Cathedral  (1446),  the  Imperial  Mausoleum,  and  the 
Johanneum  Palace,  with  its  library  and  ]^icture-gallery. 

Beyond  Gratz  the  line  traverses  a  picturesque  mt. 
region,  full  of  historical  interest.  At  Steinbriick  a 
branch  diverges  to  Agram,  the  capital  of  Croatia, 
farther  on  is  Laibach,  the  capital  of  Camiola,  with  a 
fine  castle  and  cathedral ;  and  Adelaberg  {Grand 
Hotsl  AdeUherg  ;  Krone),  whence  the  famous  Stalactite 
Caverns  (|  M.  W.)  may  be  visited.  The  long  zigzag 
descent  to  the  Adriatic  gives  many  splendid  views. 

Trieste  {Hotel  «fe  la  Ville ;  Delorme ;  Europa ; 
Vienna),  the  chief  Austrian  port  (150,000  inhab.),  is 
an  Iialian  city  in  sentiment  and  appearance,  beautifully 


LINZ.  —  SALZBURG.  259 

situated  on  a  fortified  harbor,  and  visited  by  14,000 
Yesseis  yearly.  It  has  a  venerable  cathedral,  a  sump- 
tuous Greek  ch.,  a  tali  Armenian  ch.,  a  far-viewing 
Capuchin  monastery  (with  castle  above),  a  Ghetto 
(Jews'  quarter),  many  palaces,  and  several  statues. 
The  Tergesteum  is  a  vast  commercial  building,  head- 
quarters of  the  Austrian  Lloyds.  The  Fiazzetta  di 
Ricardo  commemorates  the  imprisonment  of  Bicfaard 
CoBur  de  Lion  here.  Beautiful  drives  on  the  St.  An- 
di-ea  Corso,  to  Miramar,  the  palace  of  Maximilian  of 
Mexico;  and  to  Prosecco,  of  whose  wine  Virgil  spoke. 

Steamers  run  from  Trieste  down  the  Istrian  and 
Dalmatian  coasts  to  Zara,  Spalatro,  Ragusa,  Cattaro, 
Pola,  and  Fiume ;  and  to  the  Ionian  and  Greek  ports, 
and  Constantinople ;  also  to  Venice.     Rly.  to  Venice. 

The  Upper  Danube,  Salzburg,  etc* 

This  region  is  full  of  beauty  and  picturesqueness. 
The  descent  by  steamer  from  Linz  to  Vienna  requires 
8-9  hrs.  (7fl.,  4fl.  30kr.);  ascent,  18-20  hrs.  The 
route  to  N.  Germany  is  by  rlv.  to  Linz  and  Munich. 
RJT.  from  Vienna  in  117  M.  (4^-6  hrs. ;  10  fl.  80  kr., 
8  fl.  10  kr.),'  by  Molk,  with  its  ancient  monasterv ;  and 
Enns,  stronely  fortified  with  the  ransom  paid  by  England 
for  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  and  3  M.  from  the  great 
Augustinian  Abbey  of  St.  Florian  ;  to 

I^lnx  {Brzherzog  Carl ;  Goldner  Adler),  the  capital 
of  Upper  Austria  (50,000  inhab,),  a  pretty  town,  with 
a  museum,  castle,  and  Capuchin  ch.  78J  M.  S.  W. 
(fares,  7  fl.  13  kr.,  5  fl.  35  kr.«,  express  in  3  hrs.)  is 

Balzlmrg (Hotel del* Europe;  lyAulriche;  Nelbock), 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in  Germany,  with  an 
Italian  beauty  in  its  flat-roofed  houses,  fountains,  and 
marble  facades,  and  environs  of  far-famed  picturesque- 


260  THE  SALZKAMMER6UT. 


The  Palace,  Cathedral,  and  Government  build^ 
ings  are  in  the  old  quarter.  Here  is  Mozart's  birthplace, 
his  house,  his  statue,  and  a  collectiou  of  his  MSS. ;  also' 
the  Ch.  and  Cemetery  of  St.  Peter,  and  the  Benedic- 
tine Abbey,  with  the  cellar  where  Haydn  used  to  enjoy 
his  wine.  See  the  Museum,  the  Franciscan  Ch.,  the 
imposing  Fortress  of  HoheM-Salzburg,  and  the  higb  and 
woody  Monekiberg;  250  stone  steps  lead  to  the  monas- 
teiy  on  the  Capuziterberg.  The  house  of  Paracelsus  is 
near  the  river^  The  pakce  of  Miradell,  Prince  Schwart- 
zenbeig's  chateau  of  Jigen,  and  the  imperial  yilla  of 
Helbruttn,  are  near  by. 

Diligences  run  3  tmies  daily  (9  fl.  73  kr.^  to  "Wild* 
bad  Gaatein  (Straubinger ;  Gruber),  wuose  famous 
warm  springs  attract  thousands  of  neryous,  gouty,  and 
debilitated  folk.  Beautiful  hill-country,  abounding  in 
high  waterfaUs. 

The  Balzkanimergnt,  or  "  Austrian  Switzerland," 
•  in  which  the  Government  has  great  salt-miues,  covers 
250  square  M.  between  Salzburg  and  Styria,  and  has 
the  finest  scenery  in  Germany,  sequestered  green  valleys, 
crystal  lakes,  and  far-viewing  mts.  Diligences  run 
daily  from  Salzburg  (34  M. ;  4  fl.)  to  the  expensive 
watering-place  of  Ischl  {KaiseHn  Elisabeth ;  Bauer  ; 
Post ;  Victoria),  near  the  centre  of  tliis  Alpine  region, 
with  splendid  villas  of  the  Emperor  and  many  nobles. 
Mud  baths  and  whey  baths  here.  Grand  excursions  in 
every  direction.  From  Vienna  to  Ischl,  leave  Salzburg 
line  at  Lambach,  and  go  by  branch  rly.  to  Gmunde^ 
(passing  near  the  IVaun  Falls),  a  quiet  little  summer" 
resort  on  the  Traun  See,  the  most  oeautiful  of  German 
lakes.  Thence  9  M.  by  steamer,  amid  grand  lake  and 
int.  scenery,  to  Langbath  (diligence  to  Ischl,  12  M.), 

Between  Salzburg  and  Munich  (95  M. ;  4-5  hrs. ; 
12  mks.,  8  mks.  15  kr.,  h\  mks.)  the  rly.  traverses  a  pic- 


MUNICH,  261 

turesque  mt.  region,  passing  Rosenheim  (forancli  to  Inns- 
brack)  and  the  Chiemsee,  a  pretty  lake,  12  X  3  M.  in 
area,  with  islands  and  convents,  a  resort  of  artists. 

Munich  and  the  Tyrol. 

Munich  (Four-Seasons  Hotel ;  Belleme  ;  Bngliseher" 
hef;  Bavarian;  Bh^nischerhof ;  MaH&nhad),  the 
capital  of  Bavaria  (350,000  inhab.)  is  on  the  Isar 
river,  on  a  broad,  lofty,  and  barren  plain.  The 
climate  is  variable,  and  almost  severe.  Living  is  cheap> 
and  furnished  rooms  may  be  had  reasonably  for  a  stay 
of  2-4  weeks.  The  Royal  Palace,  an  imitation  of 
the  Pitti  Palace,  contains  magnificent  frescos  from  the 
Odyssey  and  the  Niebelungenlied,  and  from  the  lives 
of  Charlemagne,  Barbarossa,  and  the  Hapsburgs ;  and, 
in  the  Throne-Room,  Schwanthaler's  grand  statues. 
of  12  Wittelsbach  princes.  In  the  adjacent  Old- 
Residence  (1600-16)  is  the  sumptuous  Royal  Chapel 
(open  Tues.,  9.30-11)  ;  also  the  Treasury  (Tues.  and 
En.,  9-11),  with  the  Bavarian  regalia,  the  great  blue 
diamond,  and  the  crowns  of  Bohemia  (captured  in  1620),. 
and  of  the  Emperor  Henry  II.  and  the  Empress  Cuni- 
gunda  (1010).  The  Festsaalbau,  with  noble  portico 
and  statues,  fronts  on  the  Hqfgarten,  around  which  run 
richly  frescoed  Arcades,  containing  the  Ethnographica} 
Museum  and  the  Art  Union.  The  Hof ^Theatre,  adorned 
with  many  fine  statues,  is  the  largest  in  Germany. 

The  LiidwigB-Strasse  is  a  noble  street  of  palaces^ 
f  M.  lonjj,  running  from  the  Hall  of  Generals  (an  open 
loggia,  with  statues)  to  the  Gate  of 'Victory,  a  triumphal 
arch  erected  by  Lewis  I.  to  the  Bavarian  army,  with 
statues  and  reliefs,  and  surmounted  by  a  bronze  Bavaria, 
in  a  chariot  drawn  by  lions.  On  and  near  this  street 
are  the  Odeon  concert-hall ;  the  Theatine  Ch.,  with  the 


:262  MUNICH. 

royal  tombs  ;  the  equestrian  statue  of  Lewis  f . ;  the 
War  Office ;  the  Library  (10-12  daily),  —  a  Florentine 
building  with  fine  statues  and  an  imposing  stairway, 
1,000,000  vols.,  35,000  M8S.,. and  literary  curios- 
ities, —  the  Codex  Aureus,  Alaric's  breviary,  the  prayer- 
books  of  Diirer  and  Emperor  Lewis,  the  oldest 
Niebclungenlied  MS.,  etc. ;  the  iMdmgskifche,  & " 
splendid  ch.  in  Italian  style,  with  Cornelius's  Last 
Judgment  and  other  frescos ;  and  a  great  square,  with 
statues,  bounded  by  the  Priests'  Seminary,  the  Max- 
Joseph  School,  and  the  University  (1,400  students). 

From    the  Masr-Joseph   Platz   (on  which   are  the 
Theatre,  Royal  Palace,  Post-Office,  and  Max-Joseph's 
Statue)   the  handsome  Mazimilian-StraBse,  f  M. 
long,  runs  to  the  Tsar,  by  the  Four- Seasons  Hotel,  the 
Government  buildings,  a  long  square  with  statues  (one 
of  the  Massachusetts  Count  Kumford),  and  the  interest- 
ing National  Museum,  to  the  handsome  Mazimilia- 
Doum  civil-service  scliool,  adorned  with  frescos  and 
statuary.      The  huge    brick    Cathedral  (1468-88)  is 
118  ft.  high  inside,  and  has  towers  367  ft.  high,  and  30 
windows  72  ft.  high,  several  monuments,  and  a  captured 
Turkish  flag.     St.  MichaePs  Ch.  has  a  noble  dome,  and 
Thorwaldsen  s    iionument  to  Eugene  Beauhamais,  vice- 
roy of  Italy   ^  rhe  Allerheiliaenkirche  is  a  magnificent 
Byzantine  ch.,  rich  in  colored  marbles  and  fiascos  on 
gold  ground.      St.  Boniface,  an   imitation  of  a  5th- 
century  basilica,  is  a  very  beautiful  4-aisled  ch.,  with 
round  arches  supported  by  66  monolithic  columns  of 
gray  Tyrolese  marble,  gilded  roof-timbers;  royal  tombs, 
and  manj  frescos  by  Hess.     The  statue  of  Maximilian  I. 
was  designed  by  Thorwaldsen,  and  made  of  captured 
Turkish  cannon.      Near  it  is  the  mediaeval  Wittelshack 
Palace, — The  Academy  of  Science,  in  the  old  Jesuits 
^'^Uege,  has  vast  collections  of  fossils,  minerals,  coin% 


MUNICH.  263 

easts,  etc.  See  also  the  statues  of  Schiller,  Gluck, 
Orlando  di  Lasso,  and  Max  Emanuel;  the  Marian 
Column  (1638)  ;  the  Obelisk,  100  ft.  high,  of  captured 
gun-metal,  to  30,000  Bavarians  who  died  in  the  Russian 
war;  the  ancient  and  imposing  Isar  and  Neuhauser 
Gates ;  the  great  bronze-foundry,  with  collection  of 
models  (daily,  1-6);  the  Museum  of  Schwanthaler's 
works;  the  great  beer-gardens  (especially  the  Hof- 
Brewery)  ;  and  the  splendid  arcaded  cemeterv. 

In  the  N.  W.  quarter,  beyond  the  Botanic^  Gardens 
and  the  Glass  Palace,  St.  Boniface,  and  the  great  infantry 
barracks,  are  the  admirable  art-collections.  The  Old 
Pinakothek  (open  daily,  except  Sat.,  9-3  ;  catalogue, 
2 J  mks.)  is  a  vast  Renaissance  structure,  adorned  with 
24  statues  of  famous  artists,  and  with  a  lon^  arcade 
frescoed  by  Cornelius  with  scenes  from  the  history  of 
medisBval  art.  The  Museum  contains  1,400  paintings, 
including  fine  works  of  Raphael,  Correggio,  Titian, 
Holbein,  Diirer,  and  Rubens.  On  the  ground  floor, 
300,000  engravings,  9,000  drawings,  and  cabinets  of 
Greek  and  Etruscan  vases  (catalogue,  1  mk.).  The 
New  Pinakothek  (open  free  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and 
Sat.,  10-12  and  2-4),  frescoed  outside  from  Kaulbach's 
designs,  contains  400  modem  paintings  Anostly  of  the 
Munich  school)  by  Kaulbach,  Overoeok,  etc.  The  , 
Glyptothek  (openMon.  and  Fri.,  8-12,  2-4;  Wed., 
?-I2)  is  a  handsome  Ionic  building,  with  12  richly 
frescoed  vaulted  halls,,  enshrining  Egvptian,  Greek, 
Latin,  and  modem  sculptures,  and  choice  works  of 
Canova,  Thorwaldsen,  Dannecker,  etc.  Opposite  is  the 
Oorintluan  Exhibition.  Buildina,  where  new  Munich 
pictures  are  exhibited  and  sold  every  summer;  and 
N.  W.  is  the  famous  Stained-Glass  InstittUion.  The 
Propylsea  Gate  is  a  splendid  copy  of  the  gateway  to 
the  Acropolis  at  Athens,  built  in  1862,  and  adorned 
with  sculptures. 


264        OBER-AMMERGAU.  —  INNSBRUCK. 

The  English  Garden,  laid  out  by  Count  RumfordU 
begins  at  the  Royal  Palace,  and  runs  N.  4  M.  You 
can  drive  through  it  to  the  Observatory,  IJ  M.  1:J^  M. 
outside  the  Carlsthor  is  the  Hall  of  F^eune,  a  Dorio 
colonnade  containing  busts  of  80  national  celebrities. 
Here  stands  the  bronze  Statue  of  Bavaria,  56  ft.  high. 
Ascend  into  its  head,  whence  there  is  a  fine  view.  The 
royal  chateau  and  deer-park  Nymphenburg  and  the 
Porcelain  factory  are  3  M.  W.  of  Munich.  The  I«ake 
of  Starnberg  (15  M. ;  rly.  in  1  hr.)  15  X  3i  M.  in 
area,  has  fine  mt.  views,  villas  of  wealthy  Munichers, 
and  several  chateaux. 

Persons  spending  a  day  in  Munich  can  obtain  a  good  mid- 
day lunch  at  Schleich's,  8  Brienner-Sti-asse.  Operas  at  Hof 
and  National  Theatres  (prices  low),  Sun.,  Mon.,  Tbursl,  and 
Fri.,  except  in  July  (open,  as  usual  in  Gei-many,at  6.30 or  7). 
Good  classical  music  on  Sun.  at  St.  Michael's,  the  Court  ch. 

To  reach  Ober-Ammergau  take  train  to  Murnan^ 
\\\  M.,  whence  carriage,  passing  the  ancient  abbey  of 
Ettal  and  up  the  Ammerthal,  This  is  a  pleasant 
summer-journey  among  Bavarian  mts.  and  lakes,  and 
into  the  country  of  the  Passion  Play.    See  local  guides. 

Through  the  Tyrol  to  Italy/—  From  Munich  to 
A'erona,  286  M.  (20-24  hrs. ;  fares,  24  mk.  95  pf., 
18mk.,  llmk.  91pf. ;  to  Innsbruck,  llmk.  60pf., 
S  mk.  5  pf.,  5:Jmk.)-  The  rly.  leads  by  Rosenheim  to 
Xnfoteiii  (^Post  Hotel),  an  ancient  fortress  command- 
ing the  Tyrolese  frontier ;  and  up  the  beautiful  vallej 
of  the  Inn;  by  busy  and  picturesque  old  Schwas, 
among  rich  iron  and  copper  mines ;  and  Hall,  whose 
ch.  has  a  picture  by  Diirer. 

Innsbruck  (H6td  de  V Europe;  Tirol;  Stadt 
Manchsn),  the  capital  of  the  Tyrol  (14,000  inh.),  is 
»--«^utifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  mts.,  6-8,000  ft. 


THE  TYROL.  265 

high,  whose  peaks  seem  to  overhaDg  its  streets.  On 
the  wooden  bridge  wliicd  ^ives  name  to  the  town, 
Hofer's  Tyrolese  riflemen  thrice  dfefeat/ed  Napoleon's 
Bavarians  m  the  War  of  Independence  (1809).  Hofer, 
the  innkeeper  who  led  the  Tyrol  in  arms  against  the 
French  for  14  years,  and  was  shot  by  Napoleon  at 
Mantna,  now  lies  in  the  Silver  Chapel  of  Innsbruck's 
Franciscan  Ch,,  under  a  splendid  monument.  In  the 
same  ch.  is  the  monument  (1513-83)  of  the  Emperor 
Maximilian  I.,  a  bronze  statue  kneeling  on  a  sarcopha- 
gus, and  surrounded  by  28  royal  bronze  statues  and  24 
exquisite  historical  reliefs,  in  marble  (which  the  sac- 
ristan uncovers  and  explains).  Queen  Christina  of 
Sweden  abjured  Protestantism  in  this  ch.  in  1654.  See 
also  the  Palace,  built  by  Maria  Theresa ;  the  Golden 
Roof;  the  University ;  the  Triumphal  Arch;  the  in- 
teresting museum  and  picture-gallery;  the  ancient 
Capuchin  Monastery  ;  the  wealthy  Abbey  of  Wit  ten  ; 
and  the  fine  old  castle  of  Ambras  (13th  century). 

The  rly.  ascends  the  Lill  valley,  and  crosses  the 
Brenner  Pass,  4,588  ft.  high,  the  water-shed  between 
the  Adriatic  and  Black  Seas.  At  the  fortress  of 
Franzensfeste  trains  stop  for  meals.  From  Sterzinq 
the  glaciers  of  the  Stubbaythal  are  visible.  Then  comes 
semi-Italian  Brixen,  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  capital, 
with  many  chs.  and  cloisters  ;  Bozen  {Hotel  Victoria  ; 
KaiserkroTie),  frequented  by  invalids,  and  in  one  of  the 
finest  Tyrolese  glens,  with  grand  excursions  to  Meran, 
etc. ;  mountain-girdled  Trent  {Europa),  once  an  Etrus- 
can town,  known  to  Strabb  and  Ptolemy,  and  now 
rich  in  old  towers,  ruined  castles,  marble  palaces,  a 
grand  13th-century  cathedral,  and  the  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria 
Maggiore,  where  tlie  celebrated  Council  of  Trent  held 
its  sessions,  1545-63 ;  and  Roveredo,  on  the  Adige. 
Beyond,  the  line  iims*  through  a  region  familiar  to 
Dante,  entering  Italy  beyond  Ala. 


266  ULM.  —  STUTTGART. 

Switzerland  may  be  reached  directly  from  Mimicb,  by  rly.  to 
lAndau,  whence  boat  across  Lake  Constance  to  Romanshorf*, 
and  rly.  to  Zurich  (fares,  to  Lindau,  17  mks.  70  pf.,  llf  inks., 
7  ntks.  55  pf. ;  to  Zurich,  31f  mks.,  22  mks.  45  pf.).  We  rec 
ommend  the  tourist,  however,  to  go  on  from  Munich  to  Augs- 
burg and  Stattgart,  with  a  detour  to  Nuremberg,  Baireuth, 
etc. ;  and  from  Nuremberg  or  Wiirzburg  to  Heidelberg. 

Augsburg,  Stuttgart,  Nuremberg, 
Heidelberg. 

Rly.  in  1^-2  hrs.  from  Munich  to  Augsburg  {Bai- 
erUeherhof;  /)mJ/bA;v«,  a  very  ancient  hotel,  in  which 
Charles  v.  was  entertained  —  see  visitors'  books),  once 
a  free  imperial  town  of  vast  wealth,  asd  the  centre  of 
trade  between  Germany  and  the  Levant,  now  has  61,000 
inhab.     There   remain  many  picturesque  old  houses, 
frescoed  outside;    tlie  ancient  Palace  in  which  the 
Augsburg  Confession  was  given ;  the  venerable  chs.  of 
St.  Anna  and  St.  Ulrich ;   tlje  Rathhaus  (1616-20), 
with  its  Golden  Hall ;  the  rambling  Gothic  Cathedral 
(995),  with  handsome  cloisters ;  and  the  frescoed  Fua- 
gerhaus^  the  home  of  the  richest  merchants  of  16th- 
century  Europe.     See  also  the  fountains,  the  Arsenal, 
the  Museum,  and  the  gallery  of  Suabian  pictures. 
It  is  2-3  hrs.  (6  fl.  80  kr.,  4  fl.  55  kr.,  2  fl.  90  kr.)  to 
Ulm  {EMd  de  V  Europe  ;  Rumeeherhof;  Oberpol^ 
linger),  a  fortress  of  W&rtemberg  (30,000  Inh.),  on  the 
Danube.    The  Gothic  Cathedral  (1377)  has  an  im- 
mense  organ,  finely  carved  oaken  stalls,  and  a  nave 
137  ft.  high.    Grand  view  of  the  Alps  and  the  Sentis 
from  the  tower.    Rly.  to  Lake  Constance  in  4-5  hrs. 
Rly.  from  Ulm  across  Wllrtemberg  (in  2i-4  hrs.)  to 
Stnttgart  {Marquardt;  Royal;  Post),  the  modem 
--Dital  of  Wttrtemberg  (140,000  inhab.),  beautifully 


CANNSTADT.  —  NUREMBERG.  267 

situated  amoQg  tbe  hills  and  vineyards,  and  the  home 
of  a  large  Anglo-American  colony.  The  Konigsbau 
(Bx>yai  ralace)  has  an  Ionic  colonnade  and  Corinthian 
porticos.  Opposite,  across  the  Schloss-Platz,  is  the 
new  Palace  (1746-1807),  containing  very  fine  sculp- 
tures (open  daily,  1-3).  Near  by  are  the  Theatre  and 
tbe  Old  Palace  (1563-70);  also  the  StifUkirche 
(1436-95),  witb  statues  of  11  Counts  of  Wurtemberg; 
Tborwaldsen's  statue  of  Schiller;  and  various  na- 
tional buildings.  Tbe  Boyal  Library  (open  daily,  ex- 
cept Sun.,  10-12)  contains  350,000  vols.,  and  3,800 
MSS. ;  and  tbe  Museum  of  Art  (open  daily  except 
Mon.)  bas  a  collection  of  pictures  and  statuary.  The 
£dnig8'8trasse  and  Neekar-Strasse  are  the  chief  streets. 
There  are  small  but  interesting  museums,  and  good 
schools.  Charming  views  fiom  the  Hasenberg, 
UhlandshOhe,  and  SchillershObe. 

The  ArUagen  park,  decorated  with  statues,  extends 
over  2  M.,  to  Caiin8tadt(Fi^  Jakrexeiten;  Bdhn^ 
hof;  Bar),  on  the  Neckar,  with  warm  saline  and  cha- 
lybeate springs,  much  frequented  by  invalids.  See 
the  Royal  Villa,  the  Rosenstein,  and  other  villas  on 
the  heights ;  also  the  Eursaal  and  the  Wilbelma. 
The  grave  of  Freili^rath  is  here.  There  are  several 
other  notable  excursions  to  be  made  from  Stuttgart. 

From  Augsburg  (fares,  13  mks.  60  pf.,  9  mks.,  6f 
mks.),  or  from  Stuttgart,  via  Crailsheim  and  Antia^ 
(19  mks.  70  kr.,  18  miks.  85  kr.),  go  to 

Nnremberg  {Bayeriaeherhof ;  Strauss;  Goldmet^ 
Adler;  BotTier  Hahn\  a  delightful  old  town  (140,OO<^ 
inhab.),  famous  for  its  quaint  ndediaeval  houses,  orid 
windows,  and  toy  factories,  and  the  centre  of  trade  be* 
tween  N.  and  S.  Oermany.  At  one  time  their  flour, 
ished  here  Yeit  Stoss,  Yiscber,  and  Eraflt,  the  carvers; 
ihe  teacher  and  disciples  of  Albert  DOrer,  and  the  great 


268  NUREMBERG. 

master  himself;  and  Hans  Sachs,  the  cobbler-poet. 
The  two  latter  are  buried  in  St.  John's  Cemetery ;  their 
houses  are  i-eligiously  kept ;  Rauch's  statue  of  Diirer 
stands  in  the  Milk  Market,  and  Hans  Sachs's  monu- 
ment is  in  the  Spital-Platz.  The  lofty  wall  which 
encircles  Nuremberg  has  75  towers  of  masonry,  the  4 
largest  of  which  were  built  by  Unf  er.  Take  a  walk 
around  these  walls,  and  also  note  the  sin^ilar  old 
bridges  over  the  Pegnitz.  Peter  Vischer  is  ouried  at 
JSL  MocAus,  and  his  house  is*preserved.  The  finest  ch. 
is  St.  Lawrence,  a  red-sandstone  structure  (1287-1477), 
with  a  splendid  W.  poi-tal  and  rose-window,  KrafPb  s 
wonderful  ciborium,  66  ft.  high,  and  Veit  Stoss's  wood- 
carvings.  See  fountains,  outside;  and  the  ancient 
bronze  fountain-figure  of  the  Little  Goose  Man,  in  the 
Goose-Market.  The  Frauenkirche  has  a  splendid  facade, 
and  rich  old  glass  and  works  of  art  inside.  Opposite 
is  a  tall  Gothic  column  (138&-96),  surrounded  with 
statues  of  heroes.  St.  Sebaldus,  a  13th-century  Gothic 
basilica,  contaius  rare  old  paintings,  and  the  famous 
Shrine  of  St.  Sebaldus,  "the  most  exquisite  gem  of 
German  art,"  whose  miUtitude  of  statues  and  carvings 
were  made  by  Vischer  and  his  sons  (1506-19).  Op- 
posite is  St.  Maurice,  now  a  gallery  containing  many 
old  German  paintii^s.  St.  Egidius  (1140)  lias  an 
altar-piece  by  Van  Dyck.  The  Gervutnic  Museum,  in 
an  old  Carthusian  convent  (beautiful  cloistei's),  has  a 
fresco  by  Kaulbach,  and  many  mediieval  i-eucs  and 
pictures.  In  the  old  Dominican  convent  is  the  Maxi- 
milian collection  of  mediseval  antiquities;  also,  the 
Town  Library  (open  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sit.),  with  40,000 
vols,  and  BOO  MSS.  The  Burg  is  a  Gothic  castle  on 
a  rock  to  the  N.,  built  in  1024,  and  enlai-ged  by  Bar- 
barossa  in  1158,  and  rich  in  ponderous  towers,  quaint 
chapels,  antique  halls,  priceless  paintings,  and  views 


RATISBON.  —  WALHALLA.  —  KELHEIM.     269 

over  town  and  country.  The  Rathhaus  contains  30,000 
engravings,  and  many  pictures.  See  also  the  new  law. 
courts,  the  war  monument,  and  the  bronze-foundry. 

62  M.  (2J  hrs.)  from  Nuremberg  (fares,  9^^  mks., 
6  mke.  55  pf.),  on  the  Danube,  is  Ratisbon  (fioldeneft 
Kreuz  ;  JTeisser  Hahn),  the  German  Regensburg,  a  very 
ancient  free  town,  where  the  Imperial  Diet  was  held 
from  1663  to  1808,  and  now  Bavarian.  There  are  many 
medieeval  houses,  with  armorial  bearings  still  upon 
them,  and  with  towers  of  defence  (especiiuly  in  Ambas- 
sadors'.St.).  The  Cathedral  (1275)  has  a  rich  fa9ade 
and  porch,  lofty  towers,  and  a  very  symmetrical  nave, 
120  ft.  high;  also,  fine  monuments  by  Ganova  and 
Yischer,  an  altar  of  silver,  and  cloisters.  The  12th- 
century  Benedictine  Gh.  of  St.  James  has  strange  old 
sculptures ;  and  the  Benedictine  Monastery  of  St.  Em> 
meran,  founded  in  652,  and  enriched  by  Charlemagne, 
has  for  70  years  been  the  palace  of  the  Princes  of  Thurn 
and  Taxis.  The  14th-century  Rathhaus  contains  many 
implements  of  torture. 

7-8  M.  distant  (omnibus  in  1 J  hr.),  on  a  hill  313  ft. 
ovei*  the  Danube,  is  the  "Walhalla,  built  1830-42  (at 
a  cost  of  $3,400,000)  by  King  Lewis  as  a  Temple  of 
Fame.  It  resembles  the  Athenian  Parthenon,  and  is 
of  huge  granite  blocks,  surrounded  with  52  Doric 
columns,  and  adorned  in  the  p^iments  with  Schwan- 
thaler's  sculptures  of  the  Battles  of  Leipsic  and  Armin- 
ius.  The  roof  is  of  iron  and  copper.  The  interior 
hall,  173  X  49  ft.,  and  55  ft.  high,  decorated  with  friezes, 
6  Victory  statues  by  Ranch,  and  100  busts  of  illustrious 
Germans.     View  of  Bavarian  Forest  and  Alps. 

Kelheim,  up  the  Danube,  has  the  huge  circular 
Hall  of  LideralioH,  built  by  King  Lewis,  1842-63,  to 
oommemorate  the  Battle  of  Leipsic.  It  is  Kned  witk 
marble,  and  contains  34  Victory  statues,  of  Garrara 
marble;  while  oiitsida  are  18  colossal  statues. 


270    BAMBERG.  —  BAIREUTH.  —  HEIDELBERG. 

Nuremberg  to  Heidelberg,  21  mks.  5  pf.,  14  mks. 
9pf.)* 

;;;^Wii»barg  {Rumseher  Ebf)  has  a  vast  Boyal  Palace, 
a  Cathedral  (1189-1240),  the  Neumdnster  Cb.  (with 
tomb  of  Walther  yon  der  Vogelweid),  tlie  handsome 
MariencapeUe,  and  a  university.  BIy.  (7  mks.  60  kr., 
5  mks.  5  kr.,  3  mks.  20  kr.)  to  Baireuth,  by 

'B9mL\}ex%{Ba/mberg€rHof)yh  hill-town,  with  a  splen- 
did  12th-century  Eomanesque  Cathedral,  rich  in  monu- 
ments and  relics.  The  Lyceum  contains  2,600  MSS. 
In  Wxd  Palace,  Napoleon  I.  declared  war  against  Prussia 
The  rly.  runs  around  the  Franoonian  Switzerland  to 

Balreiith  {Reichsadler ;  Sonne;  Anker),  the  seat 
of  Wagner's  great  theatre,  and  of  an  old  opera  house. 
Jean  Paul  Richter's  house,  statue,  and  tomb  are  here. 
Bee  Wagner's  house  and  grave,  the  Palaces,  the 
war  monument  of  1870-71,  and  the  ducal  chateaux  of 
the  Eremitage  and  the  Fantaisie  (each  3  M.  out).  Ex- 
cursions into  the  Fichtelgebirae, 

From  Wiirzburg  it  is  5-7  nrs.  (fares,  12  mks.  80  pf., 
8i  mks.,  5  mks.  45  pf.)  to 

Heidelberg  {Hotel  de  V Europe  ;  Grand;  Schrieder; 
Victoria,  all  near  the  stat.  In  the  town,  Frinz  Carl ; 
Bitter ;  Rhetniseker),  renowned  for  its  history,  its 
learned  University,  and  its  beautiful  situation,  where 
the  mountainous  Neckar  valley  enters  the  great  Kbine 
plain.  The  University  (founded  1386)  has  valuable 
museums,  and  a  library  of  300,000  vols.  The  buildings 
are  homely.  The  Castle,  330  ft.  above  the  Neckar,  Was 
founded  in  1294,  and  added  to  by  subsequent  electors 
and  kings.  In  1689  the  French  Gen.  Melac,  foreed  to 
retreat  thence,  burned  s»k1  blew  up  the  ofistle ;  cud 
the  destruction  was  completed  by  lightning  in  1764. 
It  is  the  grandest  ruin  in  Germauy.  See  the  spfeadid 
lUBftissaiiee  Otto-Heinrichs  building  (1556);  the  i^Witfr 


SPIRES.  —  WORMS.  271 

drichs  building  Q601),  rich  in  statues,  and  containing 
the  great  Tun  (4-0,000  gallons)  ;  and  other  palaces, 
towers,  and  gardens.  From  tlie  Konigsatulil,  905  ft. 
above  the  castle  (1  hr.  by  road),  grand  view  of  the 
Khine  and  Neckar  valleys,  the  Black  Forest,  Taunus, 
and  Odenwald,  and  out  to  Strasbourg  Cathedral. 

Spires,  Worms,  Baden,   Strasbourg. 

It  is  a  short  ride,  down  the  Neckar  valley,  to 

Mannheim  (Langdoth;  Deutsch  ;  Kaiser  j  Pf ah), 
a  town  of  53,000  inhab.,  on  the  Rhine,  very  regularly 
laid  out,  and  adorned  with  a  great  palace  and  picture- 
gallery  and  several  statues.  Fine  rly.-bridge  across 
the  Rhine,  to  Ludtoigshaven.    1  hr.  by  rly.  to  the  S.  is 

Spires  {Rheiniacher  Hofs  WitteUhacher  Ho/),  the 
capital  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate  (15,000  inhab.). 
The  vast  and  imposing  Romanesque  Cathedral  (open. 
9-11,  2-6)  was  founded  in  1030,  and  in  1146  St. 
Bemhard  preached  the  Crusade  in  it.  9  German  em- 
perors and  3  empresses  were  buried  here.  In  1794!  it 
was  desecrated,  and  was  used  as  a  magazine  until  1822. 
It  is  441  ft.  lon^,  and  105  ft.  high  in  the  nave,  with 
towers  284  ft.  high.  See  the  new  fa9ade  and  Em- 
peror^ Hall ;  the  magnificent  modem  frescos ;  and  the 
imperial  statues  by  Schwanthaler. 

Worms  (Alter  Kcdser;  Be  V Europe),  }  hr.  N.  of 
Ludwigshaven,  successively  capital  of  Burgundian  and 
Franconian  kings,  and  of  Charlemagne,  is  now  a  de- 
cadent Hessian  town.  The  splendid  Romanesque  Cki' 
tbedral  (IWff)  has  4  towers  and  2  domes,  and  a  stately 
interior,  357  ft.  long.  On  the  square  occurred  events 
sung  of  in  the  Niebelungeiilied ;  and  on  one  side  is  the 
Renaissance  HeiVsehe  Haus,  on  the  site  of  the  palace 
where  Luther  defended  his  doctrines  before  Charles  V. 


272     DARMSTADT.  —  CARLSRUHB.  —  BADSN. 

and  the  Diet  of  Worms  (1521).  Luther's  Monument 
(built  1S59-68)  consists  of  his  colossal  statue,  around 
and  below  which  are  statues  of  6  Reformers,  2  Protes- 
tant princes,  and  3  German  cities.    It  is  a  grand  work. 

Darmstadt  (Traube;  Barm^tadter  Hqf),  the  hand- 
some capital  of  Hesse  (50,000  inhab.),  has  in  its  Palace 
a  library  of  600,000  vols.,  and  a  noble  gallery  of  700 
paintings  (open  daily).  In  the  palace  on  Anna-Strasse 
IS  the  celebrated  Meyer  Madonna,  by  Holbein  (1  nik.). 

From  Heidelberg,  2  hrs.  (5  mks.  5  pf.,  3  mks.  60  pf.)  to 

Carlsmhe  {Qermania  ;  Bcifinhof),  the  capital  of 
Baden  (60,000  inhab.),  with  handsome  modern 
building,  squares,  and  monuments.  The  streets 
radiate  like  fan-sticks  from  the  handsome  Palace 
and  park.  The  Romanesque  Hall  of  Art  contains 
^700  pictures,  and  other  collections.  From  hand- 
some rly.  Stat.  1  hr.  (3  mks.  40  pf.,  3  mks.  35  pf.; 
change  cars  at  Oos)  to 

Baden-Baden  {Victoria;  Badischer;  JSnglisch&r/ 
J}amMidt\  in  a  delightful  glen  amid  the  foot-hills  of 
the  Black  Forest.  40,000  foreigners  come  here  yearly, 
to  indulge  in  fashionable  lounging,  to  enjoy  the  mild 
cUmate  and  beautiful  environs,  and  to  druik  the  min- 
eral waters.  Vast  and  raacnificent  Trink-Halle,  Con- 
versation-House, and  Bath-House.  The  lofty  New 
Castle  (1  mk.),  built  1479-1519,  is  the  summer  home 
of  the  Grand  Duke.  Band  music  in  the  town  several 
times  daily.  Good  theatre.  Prices  at  Baden  generally 
high.  Excursions  thence  into  the  Black  iPorest. 
R^.  8.  to  Keklj  where  the  Rhine  is  crossed  to 

Strasbourg  (Maison  Rouge;  Hotel  de  la  FiUe  de 
Paris  ;  IfationaZ  ;  D* Angleterre),  the  capital  of  Al- 
sace-Lorraine (115,000  inhab.),  terribly  bombarded  in 
the  war  of  1870-71.  The  grand  CathedraX,  built  101&- 
1439,  has  a  magnificant  f  a9ade  by  Erwin  von  Steinbach 


STRASBOURG.  —  FREIBURG.      273 

(1318),  and  a  spire  465  ft.  high  (ascent,  IJmk.). 
l¥hence  an  extensive  view  is  gained,  even  to  the 
Jura  Mts.  The  interior,  328  ft.  long  and  99  ft. 
high,  with  its  15th-century  stained  windows,  slender 
and  richly  carved  pillars,  and  Erwin's  tomb  and 
pillar,  is  impressive.  The  celebrated  Astronomical 
Clock  is  in  the  S.  transept.  The  bombardment  of 
1870,  which  destroyed  the  Library,  Theatre,  Picture 
Gallery,  etc.,  spared  the  Cathedral.  The  new  UnU 
tersity,  now  specially  favored  by  Germany,  is  at  the 
Fischer  Gate.  The  new  Library  already  has  470,- 
000  vols.  In  St,  Thomas  Ch.  (10  pf .)  is  a  vast  marble 
monument  to  Marshal  Saxe,  which  it  took  20  years 
to  make.  In  the  Place  Gutenberg  is  a  statue  of  Gut- 
enberg. The  New  Temple  has  been  rebuift  magnifi- 
cently. Many  statues  on  the  squares.  Straslx^urg 
is  an  important  strategic  point,  and  vast  fortifica- 
tions have  recently  been  erected  by  the  Germans. 

From  Strasbourg  goto  Basle  (fares,  llj  mks.,  7 
mks.  68  pf.,  4  mks.  90  pf.)  along  the  Black  Forest. 

Freiburg  (ZdhHnger;  Victoria;  Engel)  is  & 
pretty  forest-town  of  26,000  inhab.,  and  the  capital 
of  the  Breisgau.  It  has  suffered  much  in  many 
wars.  The  Catliedral  is  a  symmetrica]  red-sandstone 
Gothic  ch.  (1122-1236),  with  a  remarkable  tower,  397 
ft.  high ;  a  rich  portal,  with  statuary :  and  an  inte- 
rior 342  ft.  long  and  102  ft.  high,  lighted  from  five 
stained  windows,  and  containing  many  old  monu- 
ments, paintings,  etc.  (best  time  to  visit,  10.30-12 ; 
fee  at  choir,  50  pf .  \  to  tower,  60  pf .).  Tlie  Kaufhaua, 
on  the  S.,  is  a  handsome  ISth-centuiy  building. 
The  new  Victory  Monument  chiefly  honors  Gen.  von 
Werder.  See  the  quaint  fountains,  the  streams  of 
pure  water  in  the  streets,  and  the  pretty  pebble  pave- 
ments. Climb  the  Sehlossberff.  Grand  view  over 
Black  Forest,  Vosges,  and  Rhlneland. 

From  Freiburg  to  Basle,  2  hrs. ;  5}  mks. ,  4  mks^ 


274  BASLE. 


SWITZERLAND. 

F^R  direct  roates  ftx)iii  Paris,  see  page  199.  Swiss  money 
is  in  francs,  like  French.  The  Swiss  season  is  Ang.  in 
the  high  Alps,  July  15  to  Sept.  15  elsewhere.  Return  and 
Excursion  tickets  on  all  Swiss  rlys.  Pennons  (large  summer 
Iraarding-houses)  at  all  chief  resorts,  f.80-|2.00  a  day. 

Basle,  Zurich,  Lake  Constance, 

Basle  {Three  Kings  Hotel;  Enlei';  Sehweisserhof/ 
Victoria),  a  wealthy  town  of  70,000  iohab.,  on  the 
Khine,  has  rlys.  in  every  direction.  There  are  many 
iiandsome  streets,  and  pleasant  parks  and  promenades. 
Tlie  Cathedral,  built  by  Henry  II.  in  1010-19,  and  re- 
stored after  destructions  by  fire  and  earthquake,  is  an 
imposing  Gotliic  building  of  red  sandstone,  now  Protes- 
tant (open  Wed.,  2-4,  1-2  fr.).  Ancient  statuary 
on  fa^des ;  2  lofty  towers,  built  in  1500.  In  the  rieb 
and  beautiful  interior,  see  the  roodloft  (1381)  ;  stained 
windows ;  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas ;  font  (1465)  ;  pul- 
pit (1424)  ;  tombs  of  Erasmus  and  of  Empress  Anna  ; 
sculptures  on  N.  portal  and  around  choir.  Very  fine 
cloisters  (1362-1487),  leading  to  the  F/alz  terrace, 
over  the  Rliine  and  viewing  the  Black  Forest.  In  the 
Council  Hall  (daily ;  small  fee)  are  fragments  of  the 
15th-century  fresco  of  The.  Dance  of  Death. 

The  Museum  (|  fr. ;  catalogue,  |  fr.)  has  many 
historic  and  scientific  curiosities,  and  the  largest  Swiss 
picture-gallery,  including  many  choice  Holbeins  (The 
Passion,  etc.)  and  works  of  modem  Germans.  Also 
University  library  (200,000  vote.)  and  a  great  hall. 
'Hie   Mission  House,  for  education  of  missionaries,  is 


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SCHAFFHAUSEN.  275 

one  of  the  powerful  local  theological  influences,  and  has 
an  interesting  museum  (open  daily).  See  the  Town 
Hall  (1508) ;  the  Spahlen  Gate  (1400) ;  the  quaint 
fountains ;  and  the  chs. 

Basle  to  Lucerne,  direct,  55^^  M. ;  fares,  9  fr.  40  c, 
6  fr.  60  €.,  4  fr.  40  c.  It  is  better,  however,  to  ffo  via 
the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  and  Lake  Constance,  by  ny.  up 
the  Rhine.  From  Basle  it  is  59  M.  (9i  fr.,  6  l^r.  30  c, 
4  fr.  5  c.)  to 

Schaffhaaseii  (Krone;  Mutter /  Bhein)  a  pic* 
tur«sque  town,  with  quaint  old  frescoed  houses ;  a 
wall  with  6  gates,  and  old  towers ;  a  massive  castle 
(1564)  ;  aud  a  Romanesque  Cathedral  (1101),  with  fine 
cloisters,  and  a  great  bell  inscribed  Fivos  voco,  mortuot 
plango,fulgurafrango.  The  Palls  of  the  Rhine  may 
be  visited  hence  (omnibus,  1  fr.,  or  rly.).  They  are 
near  Neuhausen  stat.  {Schweizerhof,  with  view  of  Alps 
and  Falls;  Bellevue),  Here  the  Rhine,  380-400  ft. 
wide,  descends  100  ft.,  in  rapids,  whirlpool^  and  3 
falls,  over  limestone  ledges.  It  is  the  largest  fall  lu 
Europe,  and  should  be  seen  by  moonlight,  or  under 
its  morning  and  late-afternoon  rainbows.  You  may 
ascend  the  rock  which  divides  tlie  falls  (3fr.)  ;  or  view 
them  from  Lau/en  castle  (1  fr.),  the  best  point,  where 
the  Fischetz  platform  should  be  visited. 

From  Schaffhausen  go  by  rly.,  or  by  steamboat  (4 
hrs. ;  3  fr.,  1  fr.  95  c.)  np  the  Rhine,  to 

Constance  (Imel/  Hecht),  a  decadent  town  of 
16,000  inhab.  The  Catliedral  (1052)  has  notable 
stained  glass,  bas-reliefs,  cloisters,  choir-stalls,  and  the 
stone  on  which  John  Huss  is  reported  to  have  stood 
when  sentenced.  W.  of  the  Victory  monument  is 
where  Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague  were  burned 
alive  (1415-16).  In  the  frescoed  Kaufhans  (| 
fr.)  the  Council  of  Constance  met  (1414-18).    Bf 


276  ZURICH. 

Town  Hall  (1598),  St.  Stephen's  Ch.,  and  Kreutz- 
lingen  Abbey.  Rly.  34}  M.  (IJ  hrs. ;  6 fr., 4 fr.  20 c, 
3  fr.)  to 

Ziirioh  (ffdtel  Baur  au  Lac  ;  BeUevue  ;  I^ational), 
on  the  swift  green  river  Limmat,  at  the  foot  of 
the  beautiful  Lake  Zarich.  Remarkable  view  (es- 
pecially by  moonlight)  from  bridge,  of  villages, 
villas,  embowered  spires,  and  distant  Alps.  Zarich 
is  famous  for  learned  schools,  beautiful  environs, 
and  conclaves  of  political  exiles.  See  the  Ro- 
manesque  Cathedral  (12th  century),  with  fine 
cloisters  and  statues  of  Charlemagne ;  Toum  HaU 
and  Museum  (1649),  near  the  bridge ;  Hohe  Fromen^tde^ 
Avitb  fine  view ;  Library^  with  mre  MSS. ;  Folyiecltr 
nic  School,  splendid  view  from  terrace ;  Art  Bitildwff  ; 
St.  Augmtine*8  Ck,  ;  St.  Peters  Ch.,  where  Lavatcr 
in-eached  23  yeai-s ;  Arsenal,  with  TelPs  bow,  Zwing- 
lius's  battle-axe,  etc. ;  and  splendid  rly.  stat. 

Zurich  to  Litidau  and  Germany.  —  Kly.  to  Romans- 
horn  (50}  M. ;  8f  fr.,  6  fr.  15  c,  4  fr.  40  c),  whence 
steamer  to  Friedrichsha/en  (1  hr. ;  1  ink.  20  pf.,  80  pf.) 
and  Lindau  (IJ  hrs. ;  2}mks.,  1^  mk.)  ;  or  rly.  by  St. 
Gallen  to  Rorschach  (h\  hrs. ;  10  fr.  65  c,  7\  fr.,  5  fr. 
35  c),  whence  steamer  to  Lindau  (1|  hre. ;  1  mk. 
65  pf. ;  1  mk.  10  pf.). 

Lake  Conatance  (in  German  the  Boden-See,  in 
Latin  Locus  Brigantinus)  is  very  pretty  in  summer, 
but  has  not  the  beauty  of  the  other  Swiss  lakes.  It  is 
42  X  8  M.  in  area,  and  156 J  M.  around  ;  very  deep ; 
with  green  water,  abounding  in  trout ;  flat,  or  undu- 
lating shores ;  and  distant  views  of  the  Alps  of  Vorarl- 
berg  and  Appenzell.  In  4  centuries  it  has  frozen  over 
but  15  times.  It  lies  between  Baden,  Austria,  Bavaria, 
WiJrtemberg,  and  Switzerland.  I'here  is  au  immense 
traffic  between  the  lake-ports. 


THE  SPLUGEN  PASS.  277 

The  UeUibers.  2,864  ft.  high,  6  M.  S.  W.  of  Zu- 
rich, is  ascended  by  a  rly.  with  a  gradient  in  some 
places  of  7  in  100  ft.  (3  fr.  50  c,  2  fr. ;  return  tickets, 
5  f r.,  8  f r.).  The  view  includes  Zttrich  and  its  lake,  the 
Liinmat  Vallejr,  the  Alps  from  the  Sentis  to  the  Jung- 
frau,  the  Righi,  Pilatus,  the  Juras,  Vosges,  and  Black- 
Forest  peaks.    Magnificent  views  from  road  up. 

The  Spliigen  Pass. 

Zurich  (or  Rohrschach)  is  a  good  point  from  which 
to  visit  the  Spliigen  Pass.  Very  pleasant  trip  to  its 
summit,  although  it  is  not  the  best  route  int^  Italy. 
Go  by  steamer  (be  careful  to  start  from  the  right  pier ; 
2-2i  hrs. ;  fares,  2  fr.  20  c,  1  fr.  40  c.)  up  the  lovely 
lAke  of  Zurich,  25^  X  2^  M.  in  area,  with  transpar- 
ent bluish-green  water  reflecting  the  chain  of  happy 
shore-villages  and  the  snowy  Alps  of  Schwyz  and  Gla- 
rus,  to  Rapperschvryl  {Hotel du  Lac  ;  Schwan),  which 
has  a  12th-century  ch.,  Capuchin  monastery,  deer-park^ 
and  ancient  castle,  containmg  the  Polish  National  Mu- 
seum. Rly.  from  Ziirich  to  Rapperschwyl,  44f  M. ; 
fares,  4  fr.  70  c,  2  fr.  20  c. ;  to  Coire,  4-5  hrs. ;  fares,. 
13  fr.  70  c,  8  fr.  90  c.  The  rly.  follows  Lake  Ziirich 
from  Rapperschwyl  to  Schmerikon  ;  ascends  the  Linth 
valley ;  runs  along  the  shore  of  the  magnificent  Lake 
of  Wallenstadt  for  12  M. ;  enters  upper  Rhine  val- 
ley ;  and  runs  S.,  through  grand  scenery,  to 

Ragatz  (Qtidlenliof  and  Eagatz,  botli  united  with 
the  Casino;  Schweizerhof ;  Tamina  ;  Freieck),  a  favorite 
summer-resort  at  the  mouth  of  the  wonderful  Tamina 
gorge,  2  J  M.  up  which  are  the  hot  saline  baths  of  PJafferSy 
amid  very  impressive  rocky  scenery,  and  cliffs  6-700  ft. 
high,  which  have  "  the  grave  and  sombre  aspect  of  an« 
cient  monasteries."    These  waters  have  been  prized  for 


278  COIRE. 

4)00  years.  They  are  conducted  to  the  baths  at  Ragats. 
The  philosopher  Schelliii^  is  buried  at  Eagatz. 

Tlie  rly.  ascends  the  luiine  valley,  by  the  4th,-century 
Homan  tower  of  Mayenfeld,  and  many  pretty  villages, 
vineyards,  and  castles,  to 

Coire  (^Sieinbock ;  Luktnainer ;  Stern;  SonneY  iht 
capital  of  the  Grisons  (9,000  inhab.),  surroundedf  with 
picturesque  walls  and  noman  towera,  and  nestling  un- 
•der  the  Mitfenberg.  The  Cathedral  (8th  century)  con- 
tains pictures  by  Dllrer  and  the  elder  Holbein,  and 
rare  Roman  antiquities.  The  Episcopal  Palace  is 
very  ancient  (bishopric  founded  in  4th  century). 
Orand  views  from  the  Rosenhtlgel  and  other  hills. 

The  Splagen  Pass  is  reached  twice  daily  by  dili- 
gences (7  hrs. ;  81f  M. ;  11  fr.  85  c, ;  coupS,  14  f r,  95  c.) 
Iiom  Coire  to  Splttgen,by  the  Romanach  hamlet  of  £hns 
and  the  ch&teau  of  Beichenau,  to  (11  M.)  Thusis  (Via 
Mala  ;  Bhastta),  a  centre  of  grand  excursions.  Many 
tourists  ride  hitlier,  and  then  walk  up  through  the  Via 
liffala,  a  tremendous  gorge  between  calcareous  cliffs 
1,600  ft  liigh,  with  the  Rhine  roaring  heavily  below. 
Thousands  of  lives  have  been  lost  by  avalanches  and 
land-slips  in  this  "  Bad  Way."  The  safe  new  road,  with 
3ts  tunnels  and  bridges,  was  built  in  1822.  A  stone 
dropped  from  Second  Bridge  (247  ft.  high ;  here  the 
scenery  is  grandest)  makes  a  noise  like  a  cannon. 

The  verdant  farms  of  the  Falley  of  Schaws  open  out 
above ;  and  the  road  passes  Zillis,  with  its  venerable 
ch. }  Afideer,  an  old  Romansch  village ;  traverses  the 
wild  Roffna  Ravine,  3  M.  long,  by  the  Rhine  cascades ; 
<come8  into  view  of  the  Einshorn  and  Pizzo  Uccello 
peaks;  and  reaches  Splugen  (Hotel  Bodenham), 
where  the  diligences  all  stop  for  dinner. 

Diligences  twice  daily  from  SplQgen  to  Chiavenna 
<10 fr.,  CQupe  12  f r.) ;  rly.  thence  to  Colico  (3  f r.,  3J  f r.. 


BERNABDINO  PASS.  27^ 

1}  fr.).  It  is  about  7  M.  from  SplUgen  to^he  top  of 
the  pass,  6,945  ft:  high,  the  Italian  frontier-line,  with 
SurettaMmer  (9,925  ft.)  on  one  side,  and  8chm.eeih4)m 
(10,748  ft.;  Milan  and  Suabia  are  visible  from  it)  on 
the  other.  The  road  descends  by  leagues  of  zigzaga 
and  galleries,  ravines  and  cascades,  to  the  vineyards 
and  chestnut  fields  of  Chiavenna  {Conradi),  with 
its  ruined  castle  and  fine  old  ch. ;  thence  rly.  down  a 
mt. -girdled  valley  b^  Biva  to  Colico,  on  Lake  Como. 

By  the  Bernardino  Pass,  diligences  run  daily  to 
Bellmzona,  in  8f  hrs.  (45J  M. ;  14  f r.  90  c. ;  cmpi,  19 
fr.  45  c).  The  road  ascends  the  desolate  Rheinwald 
valley  8-9  M.  to  the  top  of  the  pass  (6,768  ft.  high)„ 
surrounded  by  Alps  and  glaciers;  and  thence  descends,, 
bv  long  zigzags,  to  San  Bernardino,  Mesoceo,  Cama, 
Bowredo,  and  other  charming  Italian-Swiss  villages, 
amid  very  grand  scenery.  From  Bellinzona,  rly,  14 
M.  toLoca/mo  (|hr.;  2  fr.  30 c.  1  fr.  60c.,  1  fr.  15 c), 
whence  rly.  to  Lake  Oomo  and  Milan. 

It  is  easy  to  cross  from  Colico  to  Bellinzona.  To 
return  North,  go  from  Bellinzona  to  Biasca,  and 
thence  across  the  St.  Qothard  Pass  to  Andermatt. 

Tourists  who  go  only  to  the  top  of  the  SplUgen  can 
return  to  BHchmau,  and  cross  to  Andermatt,  on  the 
St.  Gothard  route,  a  fatiguing  journey  of  13  hrs.  (21 
fr.  66  c;  coup6,  27  fr.  90  c),  up  the  Vorder-Bhein  val- 
ley, by  numerous  villages,  ana  handsome  old  Dis* 
•entiB,  and  across  the  O^o^ 

The  Sngadine  is  a  dty,  cold,  and  silent  valley, 
8,800  to  5,800  ft.  high,  57  M.  long,  and  1  M.  wide, 
between  the  Engadine  and  Bemina  Alps  and  gla- 
ciers. It  has  latterly  been  much  sought  by  Anglo- 
Americans,  and  afTords  many  fine  excursions.  Dili- 
gence (52  M. ;  13}  hrs. ;  20  f r.  75  c.)  from  Coire  over 
the  Julier  Paos  (7,503  ft.  high;  inn  at  top)  to  the  large 


S80  PONTRESINA.  —LUCERNE. 

Romansclff  village  oi  Samaden,  whence  it  is  8  M.  to 
the  Baths  of  St.  Merits  {Belvedere),  famous  for  its 
chalybeate  springs,  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid 
and  alkaline  salts.  Alps  and  glaciers  surround  the 
place,  and  the  air  is  very  invigorating  to  invalids. 

Pontresina  (ift?wy  /  Weisses  Kreuz  ;  LanQWhtd)^ 
41  M.  from  SaAiaden.  is  the  starting-point  for  excur- 
sions in  the  Bernina  chain .  The  season  is  short,  prices 
high,  and  society  good.  Diligences  run  twice  daily 
through  the  whole  Engadine^f  rom  Silnaplana  to  Schulz, 

The  magnificent  Bernina  Pasa«  7,657  ft.  high,  is 
crossed  by  daily  diligences  from  Samaden.  in  5{  hrs., 
to  Poschiavo,  whence  diligence  (4}  hrs.)  to  Tirano  and 
Sondria,  in  the  Val  Tellina;  then  rly.  to  Colico.  on 
Lake  Como. 

Lucerne,  the  Bighi,  the  St.  Qothard 
Boute. 

Rly.  from  Basle  (3 J  hrs. ;  fares,  9  fr.  40  c,  6  fr.  60  c, 
ilr.  70  c.);  or  from  Zurich,  by  Zug  (ejfr.,  4fr.  55  c., 
'6-1- iv.) ;  or  from  Berne  (11  fr.,  7ifr.,  5  fr.  30  c.) ;  to 

I»uceme  (Schwan;  Schweizerhof;  Luzemerhof;  Aid- 
tional;  If  AngUterre ;  Des  Alpes :  good  penHam), 
Du  St.  Gothard:  numerous  good  pensions),  a  town  of 
17,000  inhab.,  beautifully  situated  at  the  outlet  of  the 
most  lovely  lake  iu  Switzerland,  between  the  Pilatus 
and  Bi^bi,  and  facing  the  Alps  of  Schwvz  and  En^el- 
berg.  The  Arsenal  contains  many  Turkish  trophies ; 
the  Town  Hail  has  ancient  carvings;  and  in  the 
Stiftskirche  see  grand  organ,  carvings,  and  stained 
glass.  Thorwaldsen's  Lion  of  Lnceme  is  a  statue  of  a 
dying  lion,  28  ft.  long,  cut  in  the  face  of  a  cliff,  and 
commemorating  800  soldiers  of  the  Swiss  Guard,  who 
died  in  defence  of  the  Tuileries  in  1792.  The  Capell 
Bridge,  built  in  1303,  over  the  river  Reuss,  has  154 


THE  BIGI.  -  LAKE  OF  LUCERNE.         281 

old  paintings  on  its  roof,  and  ends  at  8t,  Peter's 
Chapd  (12  century).  The  Water  Tower,  according 
to  tradition,  yras  once  a  light-house  ij^ticema),  and 

five  name  to  the  town.  It  now  contains  the  archives, 
he  JIfuMen  Bridge  is  ornamented  with  30  singular 
pictures  of  the  Dance  of  Death.  See  also  Museum 
and  Library  (80,000  vols.) ;  Stauffer's  Alpine  animals 
(1  fr.);  the  Glacier  Garden  (1  fr.) ;  and  the  Jesuit  ch. 
The  Schweizerhof  Quay  is  a  beautiful  promenade  with 
many  trees,  between  the  palatial  hotels  and  the  lake. 

The  Rigi  is  a  group  of  mts. ,  30-40  M.  around,  the 
chief  peak,  the  Kulm,  being  5,905  ft.  high  (4,470  ft. 
above  the  lake),  and  nearly  surrounded  by  the  lakes  of 
Lucerne,  Zug,  and  Lowerz.  The  Eulm  is  ascended 
l)y  a  mt.  rly.,  like  that  on  Mt.  Washington,  and  has 
severskl  hotels  (Rigi-Kulm;  Sonne;  Rigi-Staffel;  JUgi- 
Kaltbad),  whose  landlords  have  been  compelled  by 
criticism  to  lower  their  prices  and  improve  their  man- 
ners. Engage  rooms  in  advance  in  July  or  Aug. ;  for 
then  hundreds  come  up  here  to  spend  the  night  and 
see  the  sunrise.  Take  plenty  of  warm  wraps.  It  is 
but  2i  hrs.  from  Lucerne  to  the  top,  by  steamer  to 
ViteTuiu,  and  mt.  rly.  thence  (4J  M. ;  7  f  r.).  Circular 
ticket,  good  3  days,  from  Zurich  by  Zug  to  the  Rigi- 
Kulm,  down  by  rly.  and  steamer  to  Lucerne,and  back 
toZarich,  costs  22  fr.  40  c,  19}  fr.,  16  fr.  70  c.  Prom 
the  crest  you  see  a  line  of  snowy  Alps,  120  M.  long, 
the  Sentis,  Bernese  range,  Wetterhorn,  Jungfrau, 
etc. ;  elsewhere,  the  Juras,  Vosges,  Suabian  Mts. , 
Black  Forest ;  many  a  famous  Swiss  town  ;  and  13 
lakes.  The  Rigi-Scheideck  {Kurhaus),  command- 
ing a  very  noble  view,  is  reached  by  branch  rly. 

From  Vitznau  go  by  steamer  (2  hrs. ;  2  f r.  20  c. ,  1  f r. 
10  c.)  to  Flaelen,  up  the  superb  I>ak6  of  lauceme 
{Vierwalditattef'See,  or  Lake  of  the  Pour  Forest  Can* 


ALTORF.  —  AMSTBO. 

tons),  the  grandest  in  Europe,  1,433  ft.  liigh,  25  M. 
long,  and  1-4  M.  wide.  It  forms  an  irregular  cross, 
between  Tast  mts.  From  the  summer  liotels  at  the 
numerous  Tillages  —  Beckenried,  Gersan,  Brnnnen,  etc. 
—  fine  mt.  excursions  may  be  made.  Just  beyond 
Seelisberg  are  the  sacred  springs  of  the  Rutli,  on  wnose 
meadow  Fiirst,  Erni,  and  Staufecher  founded  the  Swiss 
liberties,  in  1307.  Beyond  is  Tell's  Platte,  with  its 
romantic  chapel,  on  the  ledge  where  Tell  leaped  ashore 
from  Gessler's  boat.  Marvellous  scenery  thence  to  the 
bead  of  the  lake. 

"We  recommend  the  tourist  to  go  from  Lucerne  to  Fliiden 
and  the  top  of  the  St.  Gothard ;  thence  to  Andermatt^  and 
over  the  Furca  to  the  Rhone  Glacier ;  thence  orer  the  Grim- 
sel  to  Interlaken.  You  can  buy  tickets  at  porte-burean. 
Lucerne  to  Biasca^  across  the  St.  Gothard,  for  29i  fr. ;  coupe, 
36  fr.  20  c.  Fliielen  to  Andermatt,  13  fr.  5  c.,  16  fr.  95  c. 
Private  carnages  can  he  hired  at  Fliielen,  and  are  much  more 
comfortable  and  not  more  expensive. 

Fliiel6ii  (Adler;  Kretiz;  TeU)  is  the  port  of 
Uri.  2  M.  beyond  is  Altorf  {Tdl;  SektHml; 
Lowe),  Uri's  capital,  in  a  mountain-walled  vall^» 
and"  the  reputed-  scene  of  Tell's  shooting  the  apple.  THe 
site  is  marked  by  a  fountain.  Colossal  statue  of  Tell 
near  by.  His  birthplace,  near  Biirglen,  is  occupied  by 
a  frescoed  chapel.  9  M.  beyond  Altorf  is  Amsteg 
(Stern;  Kreuz;  RirscK),  where  the  Pass  begins.  Tliis 
was  the  chief  route  over  the  Alps  until  1800.  The 
road  was  built  1820-32.  The  scenery  here  is  erander 
than  on  any  other  pass.  The  Lucerne-Milan  rhr.  runs 
nnder  the  St.  Gothard,  in  a  tunnel  nearly  9  M.  long, 
built  1872-82,  at  a  cost  of  over  $10,000,000. 

Beyond  Amsteg,  the  road  ascends  the  narrow  Baxlss 
▼alley,  with  the  huge  Brisenstock  on  the  L ;  over  the 


ANDERMATT.  —  FURCA  PASS.  283 

lofty  TfaffeMtrung  bridge ;  by  "Waaen  (Hotel  des  Jlpes} 
and  Wattinffen,  near  the  Rohrbach  fall  and  the  Teufel- 
Mtein;  Geschenen^  at  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel;  up  steep 
ascents,  and  over  the  Devil's  Bridge,  where  French^ 
Austriaus,  and  Russians  fought  in  1799;  through 
the  ZTrMer  Loch  tunnel,  into  the  Urseren  valley ;  and  up 
to  Andermatt  {Bellevue;  Drei  Konige;  St.  Oothard; 
Oberalp;  Krone),  among  high  and  arid  mts.  crowned 
with  snow.  See  chapel,  and  mineral  collections.  9  M. 
distant  is  the  summit  of  the  St.  Gothard  Pass  (6,936  ft» 
high),  whence  the  road  descends  steeply  by  the  Hospice 
to  Airolo  and  Biasca,  whence  rly.  to  Milan. 

It  is  better  to  return  from  the  top  of  the  Pass,  spend 
the  night  at  Andermatt,  and  go  over  the 

Furoa  and  Qrimsel  Passes  to  Interlaken. 

From  Andermatt  diligences  run  in  5-6  hrs.  (21  M. ; 
8|fr.;  coupe,  10  fr.  20  c.),  through  Hoapenthal  (Mey- 
er hof;  Lotoe),  2 J  M.  out;  and  oy  a  zigzag  route  up 
the  precipices,  amid  wonderful  scenery,  to  the  top  of 
the  Purca  Pass  {Hotel  de  la  Furca),  7,992  ft.  high ; 
past  the  grand  and  lofty  Gralenstock  and  Furkahom; 
and  thence  to  the  Rhone  Glacier.  This  vast  sea  of 
ice,  10,450  ft.  high,  is  surrounded  by  lofty  snowy 
peaks,  and  gives  oirth  to  the  famous  river  Rhone. 
Lioi^fellow,  m  Hyperion,  describes  it  as  a  frozen  cata* 
ract,  2,000  ft.  high,  and  many  miles  broad.    You  may 

fo  thence  to  Brieg  by  diligence  (5  hrs. ;  llf  fr. ;  compe, 
3  fr.  20  c),  whence  rly.  to  Visp,  en  route  to  Zermatt, 
It  is  better  to  pass  the  night  at  the  Hotel  du  Qlaeier  dm 
Rhone;  and  at  morn  go  by  horse  (32 fr.)  along  the 
steep  grassy  Maientoand;  up  over  the  Grimsel  Pass 
(7,103  ft.  high);  bj;  i\\i  Lake  of  the  Dead,  in  which 
the  soldiers  killed  in  the  battles  between  the  Frenck 


S84  HEIBIKGEN.  —  BRi£NZ. 

and  Austiians  hereabouts,  in  1799,  were  buried;  down 
the  steeps  to  the  Hotpice  (now  a  hotel),  in  the  rocky 
mt.  basin  of  the  QrirMelgrund,  near  the  Agassizhom 
and  the  Finster-Aarhom,  and  2  hrs.  from  the  Unter- 
Aar  Glacier,  where  Prof.  Agassiz  abode  in  1841  (ex- 
cursion to  top  of  Little  Sidelhom,  8  hrs. ;  guide.  4  fr.) ; 
down  the  Aare  ravine  to  the  Handeck  Falls  (^  fr.) ; 
where  the  icy  river  precipitates  itself  250  ft.,  in  a  deep 
rocky  gorge  ;  by  Guttanen,  with  its  rpck-strewn  mead- 
ows ;  to  lin-Hof,  whence  a  good  road  leads  to 

Meiringen  (Hotel  du  BeicheTibach  ;  Wilder  Mann  ; 
Krone)  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  Hasli  valley 
near  the  Reichenbach  Falls.  It  was  almost  totally  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  October,  1891,  but  is  being  rebuilt. 
From  behind  the  Chalet  TAmi  you  can  descend  into 
the  cafion  of  the  Aare.  It  is  5{  hrs.  hence  to  Han- 
deck Falls  (horse  up  and  back,  15  f  r.). 

The  Briinig  Pass  is  one  of  the  most  frequented. 
Lucerne  to  Alpnach  (whence  PUatus  may  be 
Ascended)  by  steamer  (IJ  hrs.),  and  thence  by 
♦ail  (10  fr.)  to  Brienz,  via  Meiringen.  You  pass 
the  pretty  hamlet  of  Samen,  in  a  rich  valley  be- 
tween high  mts.;  SacJiseln^  with  a  saint's  relics 
in  its  ch.;  over  the  Bninig  Pass,  3,395  ft.  high 
iBdtd  Briinigkulm);  and  then  downward,  with 
magnificent  mt.  views,  to  the  Aare,  where  you 
^eet  the  valley  road.  We  repeat  our  advice  to 
^o  from  Lucerne  to  the  top  of  the  St.  Gothard, 
and  thence  over  the  Furca  and  Grimsel  to  Meir- 
ingen. You  may  go  thence  to  the  top  of  the 
Brllnig  in  a  morning. 

Brienx  {Bdr;  Weisses  Kreus) ;  on  the  mountain- 
walled  Iiake  of  Brienx.  800  people  are  employed 
liere  in  wood-carving.  The  lake  is  7^x2^  m,,  and 
the  deepest  in  Switzerland.     Jt  is  traversed  by  the 


INTERLAKEN.  —  GRINBELWALD,        285 

whitish-green  waters  of  the  Aare.  The  Gidsabach  is 
a  series  of  7  beautiful  cascades,  falling  from  rocks  1,148 
ft.  high,  amid  luxuriant  herbage  and  stately  trees,  and 
illuminated  at  night  by  Bengallights.  A  mt.-rly.  leads 
from  the  landing  on  the  lake,  over  the  tree-tops,  to  the 
hotel  (telegraph  for  rooms,  and  stay  all  night).  By 
steamer  in  10  min.  from  Brienz;  or  by  footpath  in 
6  M.  Steamer  from  Brienz,  4  times  daily  (2  fr.,  1  fr.), 
to  Interlaken, 

The  Bernese  Oberland. 

Interlaken  ( Vietm^  ;  MStropole  ;  Jun^rau  ;  Des 
Alpes;  Belvedere;  Jungfratiblick  ;  Beau  Mivage/  De  la 
Oare  ;  OberldTider  ;  Bellevue  ;  Ihi  Font ;  Unterseen  ; 
SchwHzerlwf),  in  the  beautiful  glen  between  the  lakes 
of  Brienz  and  Thun,  is  the  main  rendezvous  of.  tounsts 
during  the  high  season  (July  15  to  O^i,  1),  and  the 
best  point  for  trips  in  any  part  of  the  Bernese  Ober- 
land. People  remaining  2-3  weeks  in  this  great  town 
of  hotels  can  get  board  for  8-9  fr.  a  day,  or  in  the 
pensions  at  5-6  fr.  See  the  magnificent  Hoheweg 
promenade,  lined  with  walnut-trees ;  the  Kursaal,  with 
semi-daily  concerts ;  the  old  wooden  village  of  Unter- 
seen; the  mined  castles  of  Unsprunnen  and  Weissenuu; 
and  the  precipitous  Harder  mt.,  where  many  fatal 
accidents  have  occuned.  The  Interlaken  hotels  are 
crowded  with  people  of  fashion;  and  parties,  balls,  and 
receptions  continually  occur. 

Excursions,  — The  legal  tariffs  for  carriages  are  printed 
in  a  pamphlet  (to  be  had  at  the  hotels),  and  are  ad- 
hered to  by  drivers.  Local  guide-books  (in  English) 
describe  routes  and  localities.  Orindelvrald  {Bar ; 
Mger;  Adier ;  Du  Glacier)  is  reached  by  railway 
or  private  conveyance,  and  is  near  two  vast  glaciers,  in 


286  LAUTERBRUNNEN.  —  MURREN. 

a  valley  surrounded  by  the  Wetterhom,  Mettenbeig; 
and  Eiger. 

Iiauterbnumen  {Steinbock;  StaubhacK)  is  7i  M. 
from  Interlaken,  in  a  narrow  rock-girt  glen,  close  to 
the  famous  Staubbach  (dust-brook),  a  slender  but 
unbroken  fall  980  ft.  high.  Farther  up  the  glen  are 
the  grand  Sckmadriback  Fall  and  the  far-viewing 
Sleinberff  Alp.  A  marvellous  Alpine  experience  is 
gained  by  climbing  (2f  hrs.)  to  Miirreii  (Grand  Hotel 
des  Alpes  ;  Murren  ;  Zum  Silberhorn),  a  hamlet  5,347 
ft.  high,  on  the  edge  of  a  cliff  which  fronts  on  one  of 
the  grandest  Oberland  ranges.  The  trip  from  Lauter- 
brunnen  to  MUrren  can  now  be  made  by  rly.  (return  • 
tickets  6  f  r.).  Large  English  colony  here,  July-Scpt. , 
with  ch.  Grand  views  of  Jungf  rau,  Eiger,  Breithorn, 
HOnch,  etc.  Excursion  thence  to  the  Schingelhom  in 
4-6  hrs.  (guide  necessary  ;  return,  3  hrs.). 

From  Lauterbrunnen  bridle-path  over  the  "Wengern- 
alp ;  by  the  Holel  de  la  Juna/rau,  whence  is  the  finest 
view  of  the  Jungfrati,  13,671  ft.  high ;  over  the  Idttic 
Scheideck  (Hotel  Bellevue),  6,788  ft.  hiffh,  with 
magnificent  views ;  and  down  to  Grindelwala  (entire 
journey,  6-7  hrs.). 

Meiringen  to  Grindehoald,  18  M.  (7J  hrs.  walk,  or 
horseback  ride),  by  the  grand  Reichenbach  Fall ;  the 
Baths  ofRosenlaui  (Hot^T),  near  the  Rosenlaui  Glacier; 
over  the  Great  Scheideck  pass,  6,434  ft.  high ;  and  * 
down  by  the  Upper  Grindelwald  Glacier.  Grand  views 
of  Wetterhom,  Eaulhom,  etc.,  and  from  the  low  Grin- 
delalp.    Grindelwald  to  Lauterbrunnen  or  Interlaken. 

The  Lake  of  Thtin,  reached  by  rly.  from  Inter- 
laken. (Interlaken  to  Thun,  4-5  times  daily, 
in  li  hr.;  2  fr.  80  c),  12  X  2 J  M.  in  area,  and  1,837 
ft.  high,  has  many  villas  and  hamlets  on  its  banks, 
back  of  which  rise  vast  mts.    As  the  steamer  leaves 


SPIEZ.  —  BERNE.  287 

Darlmffen,  &Qe  retrospect  of  the  Monch,  Eiger,  and 
SchrecKhom. 

The  0«miiii  —From  Spies  (Spiezerhqf,  lake  baths; 
Sehoneg^),  road  into  the  Trutigthal  (2i  hrs. ;  also  from 
Thuu)  and  to  Kandersteg  {Victoria),  1-horse  carriage, 
Spiez  to  Frutigen,  10  fr. ;  to  Kandersteg,  18  fr.  2-horse 
carriage,  18  and  35  fr.  From  Kandersteff  a  bridle-path 
leads  over  the  Gemmi  pass  (7,553  ft.  hign),  amid  mag- 
nificent scenery,  and  down  to  the  Baths  of  Leuk 
(23i  M.;  gnide,  7  fr.;  horse,  20  fr.;  horse  to  top  of 
pass,  15  fr.^.  The  steamer  touches  at  Spiez,  Oberhofen, 
etc.,  and  backs  down  the  Aare  to  SeherzUgen 
close  to  Than  (Hotel  de  Thun, ;  Bdleme;  Kreuz; 
Krone)y  a  prettily  situated  village,  with  quaint  street- 
architecture  ;  a  castle  built  in  1182 ;  the  Federal  Mili- 
ary School ;  and  numerous  fashionable  summer-hotels. 

Rly.  to  Berne,  1  hr.  (3  fr.  35  c,  2  fr.  35  c,  1  fr.  70c.). 

Berne,  Freiburg,  Lausanne,  Geneva. 

Berne  {Bemerhof  9xlA  Bellevuey  both  with  fine  views 
of  the  Bernese  Alps ;  Schweierzhof ;  De  France ;  Vic- 
toria ;  D»  Jura ;  Pfistern),  the  capital  of  Switzerland 
(4:4,000  inhab.),  on  a  sandstone  peninsula  high  over 
the  Aare,  has  pleasant  arcaded  streets  and  medieval 
houses  and  fountains,  and  is  a  favorable  place  to  rest 
after  journeying  in  the  Alps.  See  fine  Gothic  Cathedral 
(1573),  with  quaint  carvings  and  famous  organ ;  Catke- 
draUTerracCy  viewing  the  entire  Bernese  range,  Wetter- 
horn,  Finster-Aarhorn,  Monch,  Eiger,  Jungfrau,  etc., 
and  the  beautiful  roseate  sunset  effect  of  the  Ak>en- 
Glow;  statues  of  Rudolph  von  Erlach  and  Bertnold 
von  2iihringen ;  Museum  (open  daily,  1  fr.)  of  natural 
history  and  antiquities ;  University y  400  students,  and 
rich  library ;  liathhaua,  built  1406 :  Bear^Pit,  with 


388       FBEIBUBG.— LAUSANNE.   « 

bears,  maintained  at  the  cost  of  the  mnnicipalitj ; 
Arsenal,  and  military  curiosities ;  docfc-lbtcer^ 
built  in  1191,  with  quaint  automata;  Gom^Mall, 
over  great  wine  cellars;  Ogre  Fountain,  etc.  The  Fed- 
eral Palace  (open  daily,  1  fr.)  is  a  noble  Florentine 
building  (1857).  in  which  the  national  councils  hold 
their  sessions  (in  July).  Oh  its  upper  floor  is  a  gallery 
(daily,  50  c.)  of  paintings,  mostly  modern  ;  and  from 
the  roof  is  gained  a  famous  view  of  the  Alps  and  city. 
Beautiful  views  also  from  the  Sehamli  and  the  Enge, 
near  Berne. 

From  Berne  by  rly.  in  1-1 J  hr.  (fares  8 J  fr.,  ^  fr. , 
1  f r.  85  c  )  to 

Freiburg  {Hotel  de  Freibourg ;  des  Gharpent%er\ 
founded  (like  Berne)  by  Berthold  von  Ztthringen  in 
1175,  and  standing  on  cliffs  over  the  river  Sarine,  a 
nobly  picturesque  situation.  See  the  Gothic  Church 
(built  1288),  m  which  is  a  renowned  organ  of  7,800 
pipes,  said  to  have  the  richest  tone  in  the  world  (con- 
cert at  dusk,  summer  evenings,  1  fr.) ;  the  16th-century 
Rathham,  with  its  venerable  lime- tree  and  stairway  to 
the  lower  town ;  and  the  Suspension  Bridge,  800  ft.  long 
and  168  ft.  above  the  river. 

The  descent  hence  to  Lausanne  (42  M.)  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  routes  in  Europe.  Take  seat  on  1. 
side,  to  see  the  Lake  of  (xeneva  and  its  picturesque 
shores.  Exquisite  view  after  emerging  from  the  tunnel 
beyond  Chexbres  (the  stat.  for  Vevay). 

Lausanne  (Riche  Monte  ;  Du  Faucon  ;  Bellevue  ; 
Beau  Site;  Du  Grand  Font;  Gibbon,  where  Gibbon 
wrote  part  of  his  history),  with  its  lovely  views  over 
the  lake,  has  become  a  favorite  summer-resort  and 
place  of  residence  (27,000  inhab.).  See  Grothic  Ca- 
thedral (Protestant),  built  1235-75,  where  Catvin  and 
others  held  a  famous  debate,  in  1536,  resulting  in  Prot- 
Hizing  Vaud.     It  is  reached  by  164  steps  from 


GENEVA.  —  FERNEY.  28ft 

the  market-place;  and  the  plain  symmetrical  interior  la. 
300  ft.  long.  The  old  Episcopal  Castle  (now  Cantonal 
Council-Hall)  commands  a  broad  prospect.  See  the 
two  museums.  From  the  Signal,  \  hr.  walk  out,  the 
best  view  is  gained. 

Continue  on  this  route,  by  the  lovely  villages  of 
Morges,  Nyon,  and  Coppet,  to 

Otoneva  (Oravd  Hotel  de  la  Paix ;  Des  Bergues  / 
J)e  Rume  ;  Beau  Bitage;  IX Angleterre ;  National  / 
Schweiterhof ;  Victoria;  Bauer  et  de  la  Qcvre;  Rich/- 
wont ;  MetTopole;  Du  Mont  Blanc  ;  Dela  Poste  ;  Du 
Lac;  De  Paris ;  Balance ;  De  Oen^ve),  a  city  of 
70,000  inhab.,  in  a  pretty  situation  at  the  foot  of 
the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and  divided  into  two  parts  by 
the  swift  and  rushing  blue  Rhone.  The  favorite  prom- 
enade, the  Mont'Blanc  Bridge,  crosses  between  the  lake 
a.nd  Rousseau's  Island,  on  which  is  a  statue  of  Ex)usseau» 
Broad  quays,  lined' with  handsome  buildings  and  hotels^ 
face  the  river  and  lake.  Beautiful  views  of  Mont  Blanc 
from  the  Quai  du  Mont  Blanc  and  the  pier  beyond. 
The  Cathedral  (Protestant),  "the  St.  Peter's  of  the 
North,"  is  a  plain  13th-century  building  (50  c),  con- 
taining several  old  monuments.  Here  Calvin  preached. 
His  house  is  close  by ;  and  his  grave  is  in  Plain-Palais 
cemeteiT.  Rousseau's  birthplace  was  No.  40  Grand* 
Hue.  See  Musee  Fol,  antiquities ;  Musee  Bath  (daily» 
11-3),  with  many  paintings  and  casts;  Florentine 
Hotel  de  Fille,  with  inclined  planes  instead  of  stairs ; 
National  Monument,  bronze  group  by  the  lake;  the 
Academy  (1867-71),  with  Urge  library  and  MSS.,  and 
famous  natuiul-history  collections;  and  tlie  vast  new 
monument  to  Buke  Charles  II.  of  Brunswick,  on  the 
Place  des  Alpes. 

Excursions,  —  To  Perney.  4^  M.  N.  W.  (hourly 
omnibus  over  a  route  rich  in  views),  where  Voltaire 


290  LAKE  OF  GENEVA.  —  COPPET. 

founded  a  town,  built  factories,  a. chateau,  and  a  ch. 
(inscribed  Deo  erexit  Voltaire)  \  to  the  imposing  new 
Rothschild  villa,  at  Pregny  ;  to  the  Salevey  4  M.  S.  E., 
a  limestone  mt.,  4,278  ft.  Ugh,  giving  a  panoramic  view 
of  the  Mont>Bianc  chain,  the  Juras,  and  the  Lake  of 
Geneva;  to  Les  Foirofu,  another  far-viewing  mt.;  to 
the  villas  where  dwelt  Voltaire,  Byron,  Lola  Montez, 
and  the  Empress  Josephine ;  to  the  French  stronehold 
of  Fori  de  VEcluse ;  and  to  the  Perte  du  Rhone,  where, 
at  low  water,  the  river  vanishes  in  a  deep  ca&on. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva,  the  Laem  Lemamu  of  the 
Romans,  and  Lac  Leman  of  the  French,  is  the  largest 
Swiss  lake,  being  about  50  X  9  M.  (225  sq.  M.)  in 
area,  and  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  is  in  the  form  of 
a  half-moon.  The  water  is  deep  blue,  and  contains  but 
few  fish.  It  never  freezes  over,  and  has  mysterious 
rises  and  falls,  strong  currents,  and  water-spouts. 
Voltaire  and  Rousseau,  Byron  and  Groethe,  have  praised 
its  magnificent  scenery.  Scores  of  villages  line  the 
shores,  out  have  little  commerce  on  the  water.  Capital 
steamboats  ply  here. 

The  S.  coast  boat  runs  in  4^5  hrs.  (6  fr.,  3  fr.)  by 
Thonon,  capital  of  Chablais;  and  Bvian  {Hotel  de 
Prance ;  Eoian;  Des  Bairn),  a  beautiful  and  fashion- 
able  French  summer-resort,  with  fine  views  of  Lausanne ; 
to  Bouverety  at  the  end  of  the  lake  (riy.  to  Marti«iy). 

The  better  route  is  along  the  N.  shore,  A  nrs. 
(7i  fr.,  3  fr.)  from  Geneva  by  Versoix,  once  a  French 
town;  Coppet  {Croix  Blanche) ,  whose  castle  was 
long  time  the  home  and  is  now  the  burial-place  of 
Necker,  the  famous  finance-minister,  and  his  daughter, 
Madame  de  Stael-  Nyon  {Beau  Ehage ;  Ange)y  a 
lovely  village,  with  a  massive  12th-century  castle,  and 
a  splendid  view  of  Mont  Blanc ;  Rolle,  birthplace  of 
La  Harpe,  to  whom  an  obelisk  has  been  raised  on  an 


MORGES.  —  VEVAY.  —  NEUCHITEL.   291 

adjacent  island;  Morges,  with  a  castle  once  occupied 
by  Bertha,  Queen  of  Burgundy ;  Onohy  {H^el  Beau 
Rivage;  If  Angkterre ;  Roseneck,whence  rly.  in  6  min., 
50  c,  25  c.)  to  Lausanne ;  Condor,  close  to  the  impos- 
ing and  far-viewing  Grand  Hotel  de  Fevay^  in  gardens 
of  magnolias  and  rose-trees ;  Vevay  {Grand  Hotel  de 
Vevay  ;  Monnet ;  DuLac),  a  sheltered  nook  with  semi- 
tropical  climate,  much  visited  by  invalids  and  summer 
loiterers,  and  celebrated  in  B^usseau's  Nouvelle  HekfUe; 
ClareiM,  with  many  villas  and  pensions,  and  natural 
beauties  extolled  by  Byron  and  Kousseau ;  and  Mon- 
trenx  {Hotel  de  P Union  ;  Font),  a  shelter  for  consump- 
tives ;  to  Villenenve,  at  the  end  of  the  lake  (rly.  to 
Martigny,  etc.).  Pleasant  walk  thence  to  the  famous 
Castle  of  ChUlon  (2M.;  entrance,  50  cA  whose 
dungeons  and  their  illustrious  prisoner  have  been  im- 
mortalized  by  Byron.  It  is  3 J  M.  thence  to  Clarens, 
whence  3J  M.  to  Vevay. 

Neuchfttel  (Belleoue;  Du  Ckmmeree;  Faucon\  2-31 
hrs.  by  rly.  from  Lausanne,  stands  on  an  amphitheatrical 
slope  of  the  Jura,  sloping  down  to  the  lake,  and  is 
famous  for  watches.  Wealthy  citizens  have  endowed 
it  nobly.  See  splendid  Gymnasium  and  Academy, 
museums,  Library  (70,000  vols.),  new  College,  Picture- 
Oallery  (^  fr.)  of  fine  modem  Swiss  paintings,  ancient 
Castle,  and  the  3  great  hospitals.  Agassiz  was  once  a 
professor  here.  The  Lake  of  Neuchatel,  24  X  5  M.  in 
area,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Juras,  with  level  shored  and 
deep  waters.  At  its  S.  end  is  Tverdon  {Hotel  de 
Londres  ;  Croix  Federate)  y  where  Pestalozzi  conducted 
his  school  ( 1 805-25).  Steamboats  run  from  NeuchAtel 
to  Estavayer,  and  into  the  gloomy  Lake  of  Morat, 
famous  in  Roman  and  Burgundian  history.  To  the  N... 
1  hr.  by  rly.  from  Berne,  is^Bienne,  a  lovely  Bernese 
town  of  8,000  inhab.,  neai  Chasseral  mt.    The  Lak6 


292  AIGLE.  —  THE  COL  DE  BALME. 

of  Biemie  (7  M.  long)  contains  the  Feterinsely  where 
Kousseau  took  refuge  when  driven  from  Geneva  (in 
1765). 

Chamouniz  and  Mont  Blano. 

From  Geneva  by  steamer  to  Villeneuve,  rly.  thence  to  Mar- 
tigny,  and  across  to  Chamounix.  Diligence  or  char-a-banc 
from  Geneva  in  7ihrs-  (21  fr.;  coupe,  25  fr.).  Carriage, 
I -horse,  45  fr. ;  2-hor8e,  80  fr.  This  ronte  is  at  first  rather 
doll.    Fi-ance  is  entered  at  Jnnemasse.    Dinner  at  SaUanehea. 

Fare  by  boat  and  rly.,  Geneva  to  Martigny,  13  fr. 
90  c.,  9  fr.  60  c.,  6  fr.  90  c.  Ascending  the  Rhone  Valley 
from  Villeneuve,  the  rly.  passes  Aigle  {Grand  Hotel 
des  Bains  ;  Beau  SUe),  a  pleasant  summer-resort ;  and 
Bez  (Grand  Hotel  des  Salines  ;  Union),  whence  route 
to  Sion,  across  the  Col  de  Cheville.  Beautiful  views 
of  the  Dent  du  Midi,  while  neariug  St.  Maurice  (Ecu 
de  VaXais  ;  Ihs  Alpes  ;  Bent  du  Uid%),  a  very  old  town 
with  a  4th  century  abbey,  enshrining  rare  curiosities;  a 
stalactite  grotto;  and  picturesque  fortifications.  Be- 
yond EvionnoiZ  stAt,  see  the  Pissevache  fall  (200  ft.) 
on  the  r.  This  is  best  visited  from  Vernayas  (H^ 
des  Gorges;  Des  Alpes),  which  is  also  veiy  near  the  cele- 
hraXed^orge  du  Trient.  Martigny  (^.  Clere/  Dela 
Gave;  Aigle;  Mont  Elanc;  St,  Bema/rd)  is  the  starting- 
point  of  the  routes  over  the  Simplon  (to  Lake  Maggiore) 
and  the  Great  St.  Bernard  (to  Aosta),  and  over  the 
passes  to  Chamounix.  You  can  visit  Chamounix ; 
ascend  to  the  top  of  the  St.  Bernard ;  return  to  Mar- 
tigny ;  and  go  thence  over  the  Simplon. 

liie  Col  de  Balme.  —  Martigny  to  Chamounix, 
9-10  hrs. ;  mule  and  attendant,  24  fr.  and  gratuity 
<2  mules,  36  fr.).  Carriage-road  as  far  as  Trient, 
where  lunch  is  taken.     Grand  view  of  the  Mont-Blanc 


CHAMOUNIX.  —  MONT  BLANC.  295 

group.  Path  in  3brs.  to  Col  de  Balma  {Hotel 
Suisse),  7,231  ft.  high,  the  boandary  hetweeu  Swiss 
Valais  and  French  Savoy,  with  amazing  prospect  of 
mts.  Descend  the  Arve  valley  thenee  to  Ttmr  and 
AratfUiere  (Bellerme)\  whence  road  (1-horse  carriage,, 
6  fr.,  and  1  fr.  to  driver)  to 

Chamouniz  (^yo^/  de  la  Patx;  France;  Lon- 
dres;  AiigUterre ;  Mont  Blanc;  Union),  in  the 
Arve  vallev,  3,445  feet  high,  at  the  foot  of  Mont 
Blanc,  which  has  15-20,000  visitors  yearly,  and  is  one 
of  the  chief  centres  for  Alpine  tourists.  Rooms  shonld 
be  secured  in  advance.  The  whole  valley  is  worthy  of 
study,  and  has  scores  of  points  of  interest.  Tariffs  for 
guides  and  mules  (strictly  observed)  may  be  obtained 
at  chief  guide's  office.  In  a  day  you  may  ascend  the 
Montanvert  (easy  bridle-path,  2^  hrs.),  whence  Tyn- 
dall  studied  glacier  movement;  cross  the  wonderful 
Mer  de  Olace  to  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  Chapeau  (path 
iai  the  ice,  l^hrs.),  where  there  is  an  inn;  descend  to 
j^^es  Praz  ;  climb  thence  to  La  Flegere  (path  in  2^  hrs. ; 
inn  on  summit,  6,260  ft.  high),  whence  magnificent 
view  of  the  vast  snowy  Mont  Blanc,  Aiguille  Vert, 
Mer  de  Glace,  etc. ;  ana  return  to  Chamounix.  On 
the  descent  to  Les  Praz,  you  may  visit  the  source  of 
the  Arveirou*  The  Jardin  is  among  the  rocks  on  the 
Glacier  de  Tale/re,  where  Alpine  flowers  bloom  in 
August.  The  Br^vent,  one  ot  the  Aiguilles  Rouges, 
8,284  ft.  high,  commanding  the  best  view  of  Mont 
Blanc,  mav  be  climbed  by  path  in  4  hrs. 

Mont  Blanc,  the  highest  of  the  Alps  (15,781  ft.), 
the  boundary  between  France  and  Italy,  was  first 
ascended  in  1786.  About  4^  parties  now  ascend  yearly 
(3-4  persons,  100  fr.  each,  for  guides,  etc).  Many 
valuable  lives  have  been. lost  here,  but  in  fine  weather 
and  with  due  caution  there  is  little  danger.    First  da'^ 


294  ST.  BEBXABD  PASS. 

climb  to  flftone  hats  on  Grand*  Mnlets  (10,007  fc.) ; 
ifeeond,  to  snmmit  and  back ;  third,  from  Grands  Mnkts 
to  Chamotmix. 

The  T^te-Nofre  affords  a  good  route  from  Chamon- 
nix  to  Martigny  (9-10  hrs.).  Highway  to  Argemtiere^ 
whence  t^  carnage  up  a  rarine ;  across  the  Col  de9 
MonUU;  near 'the  Foyaz  and  Barberine  Cascades; 
through  Fahrcine  village  and  Le  Chatelard;  through 
the  rockj  Tete-Noire  pass ;  and  down  through  Trient  to 
Mariigny. 

The  8t.  Bernard  and  Simplon  Passee.— 
Zermatt. 

Martig^y  to  the  Hospice,  11 J  hrs.,  a  very  interestinff 
journey.  Start  at  mom  (2-horse  carriage,  45  fr.  and 
gratuity)  ;  or  pass  night  at  Ofsieres,  ascend  to  Hospiee 
to  breakfast,  and  return  to  Martigny  after  noon.  Daily 
<liligcnce  to  Bourg  St.  Pierre.  The  road  ascends  the 
Dranse  valley  to  Orai^rea  {Hotel  des  Alpes)  ;  climbs 
steeply  5  ]WL  to  Zjlddea  {Angleterre  ;  Union),  whence 
mule  and  guide  to  Hospice,  8-9  fr. ;  by  Bourg  St. 
Pierre  {An  Dejeuner  de  I^apoleon)  and  Cantine  de  Proz, 
the  end  of  the  road.  7  M.  distant,  through  the  Defile 
de  Marengo,  at  the  top  of  the  pass,  is  St.  Bernard 
Roepioe,  8,120  ft.  above  the  sea,  occupied  since  ^62 
by  French  Augustiuian  monks,  who  give  free  hospi- 
tality to  all  travellers.  20,000  peasants  are  fed  here 
every  year ;  and  in  summer  many  tourists  come.  No 
charge  is  made  for  food,  etc.,  but  well-to-do  travellers 
put  money  in  the  poor-box  of  the  ch.  The  convent, 
very  rich  ni  the  Middle  Ages,  is  now  poor.  Its  pro- 
visions are  brought  from  Italy.  See  Napoleon's  monu- 
ment to  Dossaix,  in  the  chapel ;  the  great  library ;  the 
'""'rgue;  and  the  noble  aogs.    The  pass  has  been 


ZERMATT.  —  SIMPLON  PASS.  29* 

crossed  by  vast  armies  of  Romans,  Lombards,  Jranks^ 
and  Germans ;  and  in  1799  heavy  fighting  oecurred 
here  between  the  Austrians  and  Napoleon's  troops. 

It  is  6  hrs.  hence  to  Aosta,  in  Italy. 

Zexmatt   {Hotel  du  Mont-Cervin ;   Mont-Hose)  is 
approached    from    Martigny    by    railway^   passing 
through  Vispach.      The    traveller  will  find    this    a 
characteristic  Aipine  route,  among  gorges,  cascades,, 
and  rocky  peaks,  with  vast  mountains  in  advance. 
The  village  is  the  highest  in  Europe  (5,215  feet),  con- 
tinuously inhabited,  and  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Alps, 
in  a  glen  invaded  by  3  glaciers  and  overtopped  by  the 
Matterhorn,'  Monte  Rosa,  and  other  vast  peaks.     Its 
ch.-yard  has  graves  of  several  famous  men  who  iost 
their  lives  on  these  rats.    The  Riffelberg  (with  hotel)  in 
3  hrs.  distant,  by  bridle-path;  and'l^  hr.  beyond  is  thr 
rocky  crest  of  Gorner  Qrat^  10,290  ft.  high,  with  su 
perb  view  of  Monte  Rosa's  rocky  pyramids  (16,132  ft.) 
on  the  S.E. ;  the  black  Breithom  (13,685  ft.),  on  thr 
S. ;  the  craggy  Matterhorn  (14,705  ft.),  on  the  W.  / 
the  Dent  Blanche-,  Gabelhorn,  Moming,  the  Mischabe), 
and  the  AUaleinhorn,  in  the  K. ;  with  many  vast  glacier? 
and  noted  passes.     From  Zermatt  visit  the  &ome% 
Glacier  (12  M.  long),  which  is  larger  tl*an  the  Mer  de 
Glace ;  the  Findelen  Glacier  ;  and  to  the  Gima  di  Jazi 
(12,526  ft.),  by  the  Riffelberg.     The  St.  Theodule  Pas^ 
leads  to  Aosta.    Monte  Rosa  (15,217  ft.)  is  often 
climbed,  even  by  ladies  (up  and  back,  12-14  hrs.).    The 
fatal  Matterhorn  is  ascended  by  several  parties  yearly 
(a  severe  2-days'  trip). 

The  Simplon.  —  Rly.  from  Martigny  in  2|-3  hrs. 
(11  fr.  85  c,  7  fr.  90c.,  5  fr.  95  c),  by  Sazon-Ies-Bain» 
(Grand  Hotel;  casino  and  gaming-table),  with  iodatcd 
waters,  good  for  skin-diseases  ;  beautiful  Sion  (H.  dw 
Midi;  Paste),  with  old  castles,  Gothic  cathedral,.  2  fina 


296  SIMPLON  PASS. 

old  chs.,  and  5,000  inliab. ;  mediaeval  Sierre  (Bellevue), 
with  the  cliateaux  of  the  Valais  nobles ;  Leui,  a  few 
miles  from  the  Batha  of  Iieuk  {Ho/el  des  Alpes ; 
Bellevue ;  De  France),  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Gemmi 
Pass ;  and  Fisp  (route  to  Zermatt).  From  the  end  of 
the  r!y.,  at  Brieg  (Hotel  d^Angleterre),  diligences  cross 
the  Simplon  Pass  in  9-10  hrs.  (39  M. ;  fares,  16  fr. 
65  c. ;  oompiy  19  fr.  65  c.),  to  Domo  d'  Ossola.  Napoleon 
built  this  great  road,  in  1801-6,  at  a  cost  of  ^3,600,000, 
for  a  military  route  into  Italy.  There  are  numerous 
houses  of  refuge  where  the  road  nears  the  glaciers. 
The  crest  of  the  pass  is  6,594  ft.  high,  in  an  open  val- 
ley among  glaciers.  Beyond^  neajr  Monte  Leone,  is 
the  Hospice,  whose  monks  are  hospitable  to  all 
comers.  Magnificent  mt. -scenery  on  upper  reaches  of 
pass.  The  road  descends  5|  M.  to  Simplon  (Poste), 
and  through  the  Gondo  Ravine,  i  M.  beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Gondo  it  enters  Italy,  and  passes  down,  by 
several  villages,  through  wild  and  picturesque  gorges, 
by  the  Crevola  Gallery,  and  over  the  lofty  Doveria 
Bridye,  to  Domo  d'  Ossola.     (See  page  298.) 


ROUTES  INTO  ITALY.  297 


ITALY. 

THE  money  of  Italy  is  reckoned  in  lire  and  eentetim^ 
which  correspond  to  franca  and  centimet.  The  paper 
money,  with  which  the  coantry  is  flooded,  is  about  2  per  cent, 
below  par.  Beware  of  counterfeits ;  also  of  taking  laige 
bank-notes  in  one  city  which  may  not  be  good  in  another. 
See  Chapter  on  Traoef-,  tor  general  obserrations  on  Italy. 
JIany  complaints  have  been  made  of  thefts  in  the  Italian 
post-office.  We  reconmiend  travelers  not  to  send  money 
to  Italy  in  registered  letters,  and  not  to  expect  to  receive 
it  in  that  manner  while  in  Italy.  It  is  well  also  not  to 
carry  valuable  jewelry,  or  money,  in  trunks. 

Routes  into  Italy. 

1.  Paris  to  Turin,  by  Mt.  Cenis,  496i  M. ;  31 
(express)  to  30  hrs. ;  fares,  100  fr.  10  c,  72  fr.  55  c, 
54  tr.  15  c.  Route  leads  through  Fontainebleau,  Ton- 
nerre,  Montbard(Buffon's  home),  Dijon,  Macon,  Culoz, 
Chambery,  and  Modane  (frontier  stat. ;  change  cars). 
The  Mt-CeniB  Tunnel,  8  M.  loug,  was  built  1861- 
71,  at  a  cost  of  ?15,000,000.  Trains  for  Italy  run 
through  it  in  45  min. ;  trains  for  France,  in  25  min. 

2.  Faria  to  Genoa,  by  Marseilles  and  Nice,  790^ 
M. ;  fares,  155  fr.  90  c,  105  fr.  35  c,  84  fr.  30  o.  Ely. 
from  Genoa  «7td(  Alessandria,  to  Turin ;  or  from  Savona, 
W.  of  Genoa,  to  Turin  (5i  hrs.). 

3.  Geneva  to  Milan,  by  the  Simplon,  see  p.  295. 

4.  Lucerne  to  Milan,  by  the  St.  Oothard  (see  p.  280), 
througii  Fliielen,  Airolo,  and  Bellinzona,  and  thence 
rly.  by  Como.  Or  rly.  through  from  Lucerne  to  Milan 
(fare,  36  fr.  70  c). 


298  LAKE  MAGGIOKB. 

5.  Coire  to  Milan,  by  the  Splugeii,  to  ChiaTeima  and 
Colico,  whence  steamer  to  Como,  and  rly.  to  Milan. 
Or  by  Bernardino  Past,  Coire  to  Bellinzona,  whence 
rly.  Or  by  Julier  and  Bemina  Passes,  Coire  to  Sama- 
den,  Tirano,  and  Colico^  whence  steamer  to  Como. 
and  rly.  to  Milan. 

6.  Basle  to  Milan,  by  the  Stelvio.  Ely.  to  Con. 
stance  and  Bludenz;  diligenoe  to  Landeck,  Nanders, 
Bormio,  and  Colico ;  steamer  and  rly.  to  Mikn. 

7.  Munich  to  Verona,  by  Brenner  Ptos,  see  p.  264. 

8.  Vienna  to  Venice,  by  the  Semmering,  all  ny.,  by 
Bmch  and  Villach,  through  magnificent  scenery.  LcsaTe 
Vienna  at  7  a.m.  ;  reach  Venice,  11  p.m.  Or  rly.  from 
Vienna  to  Trieste,  and  steamer  thence  to  Venice. 

The  Tour  of  the  Italian  Lakes. 

Domo  d'  Ossola  {Grand  Hotel  de  la  Fille;  D'Es^ 
pctgne)  is  a  pretty  southern  village,  with  a  charming 
view  from  the  Val'tary,  \  hr.  distant.  Railway  to 
Novara  (55  M. ;  3^  hrs. ;  10  1.  30  c,  7  1. 15  c,  4 1.  60 c.) 
passing  the  ruined  castle  of  Vogogna;  OrrutWMo,  with 
a  castle  of  the  Visconti,  and  the  quarries  whence  Milan 
Cathedral  was  hewn ;  OrateUojia  ;  through  the  valley 
of  the  Strona  to  Omegna  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Lake  of 
Orta.  Thence  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  beautif  nl 
views,  to  Ghszano  ;  through  the  valley  of  the  Agogna 
to  Nocara,  whence  Milan  can  be  reacoed  by  rly.  in  1^ 
hr.  Diligence  from  Gravellona  to  PaUama,  on  Lake 
Maggiore<6  M.;  1  hr.;  1  1.,  outside,  1}  1.) ;  to  Stresa 
(7JM.;  Ihr.;  11.20  c.;  II.  80c.).  It  is  wise  to  make 
a  tour  of  the  lakes  (1-3  days)  before  going  to  Milan. 

I«ake  Maggiore,  87x4^  M.  in  area,  and  of  vast 
depth,  is  very  beautiful,  with  the  rich  plains  and  vine- 
yards on  the  S.,  and  the  great  mts.  on  the  N.  There 
are  marble  and  granite  quarries  on  its  shores,  and  rich 


ABONA.— BORROMEAN  ISLANDS.  299 

# 

mines.  Arona  {Aneora;  Albergo  Beale),  on  the  S.,  is 
an  old  town,  with  rare  paintings  in  its  ch.  On  the 
hill  is  a  copper  and  bronze  statue.  70  ft.  high,  of  St. 
Charles  Borromeo  (1697),  the  famous  Cardinal-Arch- 
bishop of  Milan ,  who  died  in  1584.  The  head  will  hold 
3  persons  (ladders  ascend  to  it,  inside).  Steamer  from 
Arona  to  Locarno  (4  1.  80  c,  2  1.  66  c).  It  calls  at 
Stresa  {Hotel  des  lies  Borrimees;  Milan),  with  its 
fine  monastery  and  cypress-trees;  and  Baveno  (Of and 
E[dtd;  BeUeme;  Beau  Eiv(ig6j' Ba'vem?),  The  shores 
are  lined  with  villas ;  and  in  the  N.  glimmer  the  Alps, 
Monte  Rosa,  St.  Gothard,  etc.  The  beautiful  Borro- 
mean  lalands  are  touched  at  (see  Jean  Paul  Eichter's 
description).  Isola  Bella  {Hotel  du  Daupkin)  has  the 
great  palace  of  the  Borromeo  family  (open  daily ;  1 1.), 
rising  over  10  terraces  of  gardens,  rich  in  flowers  and 
founteius.  Isola  Jfadre  has  an  empty  palace,  above 
7  terraces,  laden  with  orange  and  lemon  trees,  cedars, 
and  cypresses.  Boat  with  2  men,  from  Baveno,  5  1. 
first  hr.,  1 1.  others.  Arona  to  Isola  Bella,  by  steamer, 
1 J 1.,  90  c. ;  fare  thence,  by  Pariolo,  Intra,  and  Laveno, 
11.  85  c.,  11.  15  c.,  to  Luino.  Opposite  is  Cannero, 
among  the  vineyards,  with  ancient  brigands'  castles  off- 
shore. Lovely  villages  appear  on  either  coast.  The 
steamer  keeps  on  N.  to  Locarno  (Grand  Hotel 
Lucarno;  Corona;  Smzzera),  in  the  Swiss  Canton  of 
Ticino,  to  which  the  upper  part  of  the  lake  belongs. 
See  ch.,  with  good  pictures;  Cantonal  buildings  ;  and 
Ch.  of  Madonna  del  Sasso,  on  the  hill,  visited  by 
myriads  of  pilgrims.  Rly.  hence  to  Belhnzona,  whence 
diligence  over  the  Spliigen.  Return  by  boat  (2 1.  . 
10  c.  11.  20  c.)  to 

Xtiiino  {HStel  du  Simplom  ;  Posta  ;  Vitioria),  a  fa- 
Torite  summer^resort,  with  the  Crivelli  Palaoe  an4 
Qaribaidi'8  statue.    Steam  tramway  (1  h. ;  21.  65c.,  1 L 


800  LAKE  LUGANO.  —LAKE  COMO 

45  c.)  to  Pifnte  Trem,  thence  steamboat  (50  min.,  41. 
50  c,  2  1.  70  c.)  to  Lugano  {Hotel  du  Pare,  an  old 
convent ;  Washington^  once  the  (Government  palace ; 
Splendide;  Sviezera),  a  Swiss  cantonal  capital,  in- 
habited by  Italians,  amid  exquisite  scenery  and  rich 
villas.  See  S,  Lorenzo  Ch.;  Sla.  Maria,  with  Luioi's 
frescos ;  Wm.  Tell's  statne ;  and  old  convents  and 
palaces.  Excursion  to  Mt.  8.  Salvadore  (2,982  ft. 
high)  in  2  hrs.  (guide  and  horse,  7  L).     View  of  Alps. 

Lake  Lugano  is  a  series  of  deep,  sinuous  gulfs 
amon^  the  mts.,  14  M.  long  and  3  M.  wide,  Swiss  on 
one  side,  Italian  on  the  other,  in  a  climate  of  perpetual 
spring,  and  amid  very  lovely  scenery.  The  adjacent 
peaks  overlook  the  Lombard  plain,  down  to  Milan. 
Steamer  from  Lugano  (2|1.,  11.),  by  Osteno,  near  a 
remarkable  grotto,  to  Porlessa,  a  quaint  village  in  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills;  or  S.,  to  Ckx^pclago,  whence  rail- 
way  to  Como.  Steam  tramway  (about  9  M. ;  1  hr. ;  2 1. 
65  c,  11.  45c.)  from  Porlezza,*  by  Piano  and  Croce, 
and  through  a  rich  country,  with  Lake  CJomo  below 
and  the  Alps  in  sight  from  the  Spliigen  to  the  Ortier 
Spitz,  to  Menaggio  {Grand Hotel;  Vittoria;  Coronary 
on  Lake  Oomo.  This  is  a  good  point  for  excursions ; 
and  on  the  hill  is  the  Villa  Vigoni,  with  fine  sculptures. 

Lake  Como,  the  Lacui  LaHus  of  the  Romans,  is 
shaped  like  the  letter  Y,  and  is  32  M.  long,  2-3  M. 
wide,  and  1,800  ft.  deep.  It  is  one  of  the  loveliest  lakes 
in  the  world,  and  its  natural  charms  of  mts.,  vineyards, 
and  forests  are  heightened  by  the  white  ItaUan  hamlets 
and  the  splendid  villas  of  Milanese  families.  Cross  to 
Bellaggio  {Grande  Bretagne ;  BeUaggio  ;  Genazzini  ; 
Villa  Serbelloni ;  Florence;  Suisse),  a  favorite  Anglo- 
American  resort.  The  Villa  Melzi  (1 1.)  has  sple^iid 
seubtures  (by  Canova)  and  frescos,  and  a  famoua 
^arden.      From   Villa  Serbelloni,  best  view  on  the 


GOMO.— LAKE  OF  GABDA.  301 

lake.  Across  tbe  lake  is  Cmdennabbia  {BeUemie ; 
BeUe  lie;  Britannia),  near  the  celebrated  VUUt  Car- 
lotta  (fee  1  1.),  rich  in  finest  sculptures  of  Canova 
and  Thorwaldsen.  Steamer  from  Beilaggio  to  (Hico, 
whence  rly.  (17  M.;  81.  10  c,  2  1.  15  c,  1 1.  40  c.)  to 
Chiavenna,  and  diligence  over  the  Splttgen  (12  hrs. ; 
22  L,  outside  26 1.  65  c.)  to  Ooire  (see  p.  278).  Return 
thence  to  Colico  and  take  steamer  (3{<5  hrs. ;  4 1. 70  c. , 
2  1.  60  c.)  through  the  lake,  noting  castles  of  Musso 
and  many  beautiful  hamlets,  to  Como  (Bold  Vol- 
ta ;  Italia;  CappeUo),  a  place  of  25,000  inhab., 
with  statues  of  its  eminent  natives,  the  elder  and  the 
younger  Pliny,  and  Volta,  the  electrician.  See  marble 
Lombard-Goliiic  Cathedral  (1396),  with  fine  paintings 
(bv  Guido,  "Veronese,  etc.)  and  sculptures,  and  vivid 
coloring;  Ch.  of  Grocefisso,  richly  adorned;  basilica 
of  S.  AbbondiOj  1  M.  out ;  ancient  Porta  del  Torre;  and 
handsome  old  Broletto,  or  town-hall.  Steamers  run 
from  Bellaggio  down  the  picturesque  Lake  of  Lecco,  an 
arm  of  Como,  to  Lecco,  at  the  foot  of  the  high  Rese- 
gone  peaks  (rly.  to  Milan). 

Como  to  Milau,  30  M. ;  1|  hrs.  (54 1, 3 1. 85  c,  2^  l). 

The  Lake  of  Orta,  9  X  I9  M.  in  area,  is  eharm- 
ingly  situated  among  the  Piedmontese  hills.  Omnibus 
(241.)  from  Arona  to  Orta  {Hotel  S.  Giulio ;  Leone 
a  Oro)i  a  marble-paved  hamlet  on  a  promontory,  near 
the  Sacro  Monte,  a  height  dotted  with  chapels,  and 
looking  up  on  Monte  Bosa.  —  The  Lake  of  Iseo  is 
15  X  H  M.  in  area,  winding,  in  S  shape,  amonff  groves 
of  mulberries  and  figs  and  gardens  of  roses  ana  camel- 
lias. Railway  from  Brema{16  M. ;  1 J  hr. :  2 1. 75  c. ,  1 1. 
90  c,  1  L  25,c.)  to  Iseo  (EStel  Leone),  whence  steamer 
to  beautiful  Samico  and  Lovere. — The  great  Lake  of 
aarda,  37  X  10  M.  in  area,  1,000  ft.  deep,  with  clear 
blue  watens,  abounding  in  fish,  and  very  picturesque 
shores,  is  traversed  by  steamboats,  rudnmg  fK)m  De9-: 
emano)  (the  home  of  Catullus)  or  Feschiei^a  (near  the 


302  MILAN. 

battle-field  of  Solferino),  on  tlie  Milan-Yerona  rly.,  ta 
RiTa,  a  beautiful  Austrian  village  at  the  N.  end. 

The  North-Italian  Cities. 

Bffilaii  {Hotel  de  la  Ville ;  Cavonr ;  Milan;  Gran 
Bretagna.all  expensive;  Frarieia  ;  Europa  ;  Mdnin; 
JRama;  Falcone),  is  a  beautiful  and  enterprising  city 
(400,000  inhab.),  9  M.  around,  in  the  centre  of  the 
rich  Lombard  plain.  It  was  founded  400  B.C. ;  a 
capital  in  the  3d  century;  sacked  by  Attila  in  452; 
a  Jjombard  city  in  568 ;  annexed  by  Charlemaene ; 
destroyed  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  in  1162;  reouilt 
by  the  Lombard  League ;  governed  by  the  Visconti 
and  Sforza  families,  1312-1545  ;  conquered  by  Francis 
I,  in  1515 ;  annexed  by  Charles  V.  soon  after,  and 
Spanish  till  1714 ;  capital  of  Italy,  1805-14 ;  an  Aus- 
trian  garrison,  1814-59  ;  and  since  then  Italian.  Man- 
zoni  was  bom  here ;  also  5  Popes ;  and  Virgil  studied 
here. 

The  magnificent  Gothic  Cathedral,  second  only  to 
St.  Peter's  and  Seville  Cathedrals  in  size,  was  built 
1386-1500.  It  is  cruciform,  with  double* aisles  and 
transept-aisles,  separated  by  52  pillars,  each  12  ft.  in 
diameter,  with  niches  crowded  with  statues.  Interior 
477  ft.  long,  183  ft.  wide,  and  155  ft.  high.  It  con- 
tains 6,000  statues,  a  pavement  of  marble  mosaic,  vast 
granite  monoliths,  superb  stained  windows,  many  tombs 
of  magnates,  St.  Carlo  Borromeo's  wooden  crucifix  and 
goi^ous  tomb,  and  life-size  silver  statues  of  saints 
(in  the  Treasury) .  The  wonderful  marble  roof  (entered 
from  r.  transept,  5  a.m.  till  dusk,  25  c),  with  98  Gothic 
turrets,  hundreds  of  pinnacles,  and  over  2,000  life-siz9 
marble  statues  (some  by  Canova),  should  be  oarefuQj 
-^--^ied  (2-3  hrs.),     A^scend  (at  early  mom)  to  the 


MILAK.  dOS 

iil^r  gallery  of  the  tower  (494  steps),  which  is  860 
ft.  high,  and  view  the  Lombard  plain,  Apennines, 
«nd  Alps  (Mt.  Cenis,  Blanc,  St.  Bernard,  Rosa,  Mat- 
torhorn,  Mischabel,  Leone,  St.  Oothard,  Spldgen, 
Ortler,  Spitz,  etc.).  Watchman  hei-e,  with  tele- 
scope. 

Cross  Cathedral  8q.,  and  enter  the  Vtetar-Bmmanuel 
OdUery,  the  finest  arcade  in  the  world;  built  in  18G5-7 
at  a  cost  of  $1,600,000  ;  900  ft.  long,  48  wide,  94  high, 
surrounded  by  handsome  shops;  nchly  frescoed;  and 
adorned  with  statues  of  Raphael.  Galileo,  Dante, 
Cavour,  and  20  other  famous  Italians.  The  octagon 
under  the  dome  (180  ft.  high)  is  brilliantly  lighted  at 
night,  when  it  forms  a  favorite  promenade.  On  the 
adjacent  PiaasM  deUa  SccUa,  see  Leonardo  da  Vinci's 
monument  (1872),  the  massive  Municipal  Palace 
(1555)4(and  the  great  La  Scala  Theatre,  with  3,600 
sittings  (1 1.  to  see  building  ;  famous  ballets  here,  in 
season).  Near  by  is  the  Jesuit  ch.  of  San  FeMe 
(1569).  The  Brera,  once  a  Jesuit  college  (1675),  is  a 
great  palace  built  around  a  quadrangle  adorned  with 
statues ;  and  contains  a  library  of  200,000  vols.,  a 
celebrated  gjallery  (open  daily,  9-4. 11.;  free  on  Sun.) 
of  400  paintings  ;  noble  archaeological  museum ;  and 
sculptures  (get  catalogue). 

The  Piaaea  6^ Arm,  N.W.  of  Milan,  has  the  Arena 
built  by  Napoleon  I.,  and  holding  80,000  spectators  ; 
the  Castle  of  the  Sforzas,  built  1358  ;  and  the  great 
triumphal  marble  Arch,  ending  the  Simplon  route, 
founded  by  Napoleon  (1804)  to  record  his  victories, 
and  finished  by  Austria  (1830),  with  reliefs  showing 
the  victories  over  France.  Grand  statues  on  summit. 
The  Coreo  Vittorio  Emanuele  is  the  chief  business 
street,  and  contains  8.  Carlo  Borromeo  (a  copy  of  the 
Roman  Pantheon),and  several  palaces.  See  Piazza  del 
Mercanti,  with  Exchange  and  13th-century  palace  of 
the  Podesta;  Piazza  Beccaria,  with  statue  of  Beccaria; 


"304  LA  CERTOSA. 

and  the  Roman,  Garibaldi,  and  Tosa  Gates.  S. 
brogio,  founded  by  St.  Ambrose  (4tli  century),  is  a 
Homanesque  eh.,  rich  in  monument  of  ancient  Chris- 
tianity, 8th-eentury  reliefs,  9th-century  mosaics,  Stfli- 
cho's  sarcophagus,  tiie  brazen  serpent  of  Moses.  Here 
Augustine  embraced  Christianity ;  Ambrose  closed  the 
gates  against  the  Emperor  Theodosius ;  and  the  Xiom- 
bard  and  German  sovereigns  received  tbe  Iron  Crown. 
In  the  refectory  (11.),  near  the  rich  old  abbey-ch.  of 
S.  Maria  delle  Grazie,  are  the  remains  of  Leonardo  da 
Vinci's  grand  fresco  of  The  Last  Supper.  See  the  4th- 
century  octagonal /S.  Lorenzo,  and  its  colonnade ;  S.  Maria 
di  S.  Celso,  with  remarkable  paintings,  sculptures,  and 
atrium ;  S.  Maurizio  (Benedictine),  with  noble  frescos  . 
by  Luini.  The  Ambrosian  Library  (open  10-3, 1 1.), 
founded  (1609)  by  Cardinal  Borromeo,  has  160,000  vols., 
15,000  MSS.,  many  literary  curiosities,  and  several  hun- 
dred paintings.  The  Civic  Musetun  (Tues.,  Wed., 
Sat.,  11-3 ;  50  c.)  has  large  natural-history  collections. 

See  the  Ospedale  Maggiore  (1457),  a  vast  hospital 
with  9  courts ;  Military  Hospital;  Manzoni's  house ; 
palaces  of  Borromeo,  Litta,  Omoneni,  Trivulzio,  and 
Cioni  families ;  Cemetery^  with  cremation-temple ;  Pub- 
lic Gardens,  where  Exlubition  of  1881  was  held ;  Arch- 
bishops^ Palace,  near  Cathedral,  with  fine  court  (1565); 
and  Royal  Palace,  adjacent,  with  huge  Napoleonic 
frescos. 

]ja  Certosa  (1  hr.  by  rly.;  3 1.  20  c,  2 1.  25  c,  1 1. 
60  c),  in  a  fertile  and  populous  plain,  was  one  of  the 
most  sumptuous  monasteries  in  the  world,  and  be- 
longed to  the  Carthusians.  It  was  founded  in  1306  by 
the  Yisconti ;  and  here  Francis  I.  was  a  prisoner  in  1525. 
The  ch.,  with  14  columns,  a  high  dome,  mosaic  floor, 
monuments,  and  frescos,  is  crowded  with  precious 
*hing».      The  rich   Renaissance   fajade   (1473)  is  in 


PAVIA. — ALESSANDRIA. -— TURIN.        S05 

colored  marbles,  with  delicate  carvings.  Grand  clois* 
ters,  with  slender  marble  pillars,  and  monks'  houses. 

Pavia  (Croee  Bianca  ;  Lombardid)  is  a  little  way  S. 
(fares  from  Milan,  4 1.  10  c,  2 1.  85  c,  2  L  10  c).  See 
unfinished  Cathedral,  richly  decorated;  Promenade^ 
along  Ticino  Biver;  Vniveniiif,  the  oldest  in  Europe; 
old  Komanesque  Ck,  of  S,  Jiickele,  with  Giottesque 
frescos,  colossal  statue  of  Ghislieri;  towers  on  the 
walls;  and  Castle,  built  1860. 

Pavia  to  Cremona  and  Brescia,  14 1.  5  c,  9 1.  85  c, 
71.  5  c.;  to  Piacenza,  61.  85  c.,  41.  80  c.,  31.  45  c. 
From  La  Certosa  the  fares  are  7 1.  40  c.,  5 1.  20  c.,  31. 
Tdc,  to  Alessandria  {Mp.  Restaurant;  Europa; 
ItaUa),  a  huge  fortress  (60,000  inhab.),  whose  ap- 
proaches can  be  flooded  in  war-time.  Citadel  built, 
1728,  by  Victor  Amadeo  II .  Hence  in  21-3  hrs.  (10 1. 
20  c.,  71.  30  c.,  61.  15  c.)  to 

TmiVL  {Hotel  deV Europe;  De  la  Ligurie ;  Feder  ; 
lyAngleterre  et  lYambetta;  De  Turin),  a  prosperous 
city  of  300,000  iuhab.,  on  the  plain  of  the  Po,  near 
the  Graian  Alps.  It  was  destroyed  by  Hannibal 
(218  B.C.)  and  Alaric ;  was  a  Roman  colony ;  a  bishopric 
under  Charlemagne ;  capital  of  Savoy  and  Sardinia,  and 
of  Italy  (1859-65).  It  is  laid  out  with  Philadelphian 
regularity,  and  surrounded  by  umbrageous  promenades, 
on  site  of  old  walls.  The  Palazzo  Madania  is  a  huge 
medisQval  pile,  centrally  situated ;  and  once  the  Senate- 
house  of  Italy.  Across  the  Piazza  Castello  is  the 
Royal  Palace,  a  ponderous  old  brick  building  (usually 
open),  richly  furnished,  and  with  fine  statuary,  library 
(50,000  vols. ;  open,  9-4),  and  armory  (daily,  11-3 ; 
50  c),  with  Roman,  French,  and  Austrian  standards, 
Cellini's  metal- work,  weapons,  armor,  etc.  The  hand- 
some and  busy  Via  di  Po,  with  arcades,  runs  thence 
to  the  Po  bridge.     The  Palace  of  the  Duke  of  Geno«' 


306  TURIN.  —  NOVARA. 

is  connected  with  that  of  the  King.  Tlie  Royal  and 
Zoolcmcal  Gardens  are  open  11-vJ  (music  at  1).  In 
tbe  Palazzo  delV  Accademia  are  collections  in  natural 
history,  sculptures,  Egyptian  antiquities,  a  library  of 
40,000  vols.,  and  a  gallen^  (open  daily ;  get  catalogue) 
of  600  pictures,  many  of  them  of  great  interest.  The 
Cathedral  (1498)  contains  the  Cappella  del  SS.  Sudario, 
a  high-domed  round  chapel  of  brown  marble,  where 
the  sovereigns  of  Savoy  are  buried.  La  Comolafa  ch. 
contains  a  revered  image  of  the  Virgin.  The  palaces 
•  and  arcades  of  the  Piaasa  ddlo  Statuto  were  erected  by 
an  English  company,  and  surround  a  memorial  of  the 
Trejus  Tunnel.  There  are  many  fine  statues  and 
groups  in  the  squares,  honoring  Italian  notables.  The 
University,  a  vast  Renaissance  palace,  has  1,500  stu- 
dents, and  a  library  of  200,000  volumes.  See  Albertina 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (open  daily) ;  Municipal  Museum ; 
House  of  Tasso;  house  where  Cavour  died;  Royal 
Theatre;  Ch.  of  Gran  Madre  di  Dio;  Cavour's  and 
Emmanuel  Philiberfs  Monuments;  the  great  Carignano 
Palace;  the  favorite  Public  Garden,  with  chateau  of  // 
Valentino;  handsome  granite  bridge ;  .^r*<'w^?/;  Citadel; 
Corpus  Domini  ch.,  richly  decorated;  S.  Rocco;  S. 
Andrea;  Waldensian  Temple;  Capuchin  Monastery, 
with  grand  view  of  the  Alps.  Tlie  Cemetery,  \\  M.  K 
E.,  has  tombs  of  Silvio  Pellico,  Massimo  d*  Azeglio, 
Gioberti,  etc.  La  Superga,  on  a  liill  E.  of  Turin, 
viewing  city  and  Alps  (Monte  Rx)saj),  is  a  splendid  ch., 
built  in  1717,  with  the  tombs  ot  Sardiiiian  kings. 
The  Valleys  of  the  Waldenses  are  30-40  M.  S.  W.  of 
Turin. 

From  Turin  you  may  go  to  Milan  (171.,  111.  90c., 

81.  55  c.)  by  Novara  {Tre  Re;  Italia),  a  large  Pied- 

niontese  market-town,  where  Peter  Lombard  was  born 

1100.     The  4th-ceutury  Cathedral  has  columns  of 

Mer  pagan  temple. 


u 


BERGAMO.  —  BRESCIA.  307 

Turin  to  Venice,  257  M. ;  lOJ  hrs.,  express ;  fares, 
47 1.    10  c,  33  1.  5  c,  23 1.  65  c.     Milan  to  Bergamo 
0^9   M.;  2  hrs.),   51.   90  c.,  41.   15  c.,  21.  95  c.;  to 
Brescia,  11 J  l,  81.  5  c.,  51.  75  c.;  to  Verona,  181. 
30  c.;    to  Venice,   311.  80  c.,  221.  80  c.,   161.  30  c. 
I  Take    morning  train.      Eine  scenery  and  interesting 
I  cities.      Bergamo  (Italia)  is  a  prosperous  fortified 
[provincial  and  episcopal  capital  (38,000  inliab.).     Aris- 
tocratic  and  governmental  Old  Town  on  hill,  with  Cas- 
'  (le  above  it ;  commercial  New  Town  below.     About  the 
Piazza  Garibaldi,  Cathedral,  splendid  Golleoni  Chapel, 
Municipal  Palace,  and  quaint  old  Gothic  Broletto  pal- 
Jice.     See  very  interesting  Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  Maggiore 
(1173),  containing  tomb   of    Donizetti;    Accademia 
Carrara,  with  over  200  ancient  paintings ;  .vast  build- 
ings, with  600  shops,  for  annual  Fair  (Aug.  15-Sept. 
'  15).    Excursions  to  Vals  Bremhana  and  Serianay  and 
Lake  of  Iseo. 

,      ^Tesx^S&iAlbergod^ Italia;  Oamfibero ;  Fenice) mBkes 
i  famous  arms,  silks,  and  cloths  (43,000  inhab.) ;  was  a 
Gaulish  town ;  a  B>oman  colony ;  Milan's  rival  in  the 
16th  century;  sacked  by  Gaston  de  Foix  in  1512;  a 
Venetian  garrison,    1517-1797;  bombai*ded  by  Aus- 
trians  in  1849.      Beautifully  situated  at  foot  of  the 
Alps,  surrounded  by  walls  and  overlooked  by  a  castle. 
The  Cathedral  (built  1604-1825)  is  of  marble,  with 
vast  dome.     Near  by  is  La  Rotonda,  the  old  cathedral 
(9th  century),  round,  with  dome  and  crypt.     See  chs. 
of  S.  Afra,  S.  Cleniente,  and  S,  Nazzaro  e  Ceho,  rich  in 
pictures ;  Galleria  Tost  (open  11-3),  13  rooms  full  of 
notable  paintings ;  Biblioteca  Quiriniaua  (open  11-3), 
40,000  vols.,    and    rare    literary   curiosities;    Museo 
Patrio  (11-3  daily),  Roman  relics,  in  a  temple  built 
by  Vespasian,  a.d.  72 ;  12th  century  Broletto  and  cam- 
panile; handsoiae.  Palazzo   Coniunaic  (1508),   rich! 


308  SOLFERINO.  —  VERONA. 

carved ;  and  famous  Campo  Sanh,  or  cemeteiy.  Lai* 
of  Garda,  see  page  301. 

The  rly.  to  Venice  passes  Desenzam,  whence  41.  by 
carriage  to  Bolferino,  where  a  chapel  contains  bones 
of  7,000  soldiers  slain  in  the  battle  (1859) ;  runs  along 
8.  shore  of  Iiake  of  Gkurda,  with  lovely  views ;  through 
the  fortress  of  Peschiera;  to  thriving 

Vexona  {Due  Torri;  CoUmba  d^Oro;  Oran  Hotd 
di  ZfOndra),  on  the  edge  of  the  Tyrol,  on  a  rich  plain 
(68,000  iuhab.).  First  a  Gaulish  town,  350  B.C. ;  then 
a  Roman  fortress ;  capital  of  the  Gothic  empire ;  one 
of  Charlemagne's  cliief  towns;  a  republic;  capital  of 
the  Scali^^ers ;  Venetian  appanage  for  300  years ;  Aus- 
trian garrison  (1797-1866)  ;  and  Italian  city.  There 
ai-e  5  bridges  over  tiie  rapid  Adige.  Verona  is  sur- 
rounded with  formidable  bastioned  walls  and  detached 
castles,  built  by  Austria  and  lately  strengthened  by 
Italy.  Give  a  day  to  its  wonderful  memorials  of 
Romans,  Goths,  Lombards,  and  Carlovingians ;  chs.  of 
rare  interest ;  and  venerable  palaces.  The  Cathedral 
is  a  stately  14th.century  Gotnic  ch.,  with  cloisters  on 
red-marble  columns.  Huge  pillars  inside.  Near  by  is 
the  old  12th-century  JBap/isiery;  also,  Bishop* s  Falace, 
with  colossal  statue  in  courtyard,  and  library.  The 
Piaxxa  delle  Brbe,  or  fruit-market,  is  a  remarkably 
picturesque  square,  once  the  forum  of  the  Republic,  sur- 
rounded with  frescoed  palaces,  and  containing  a  tall 
marble  pilkir  where  once  stood  the  lion  of  Venice,  the 
quaint  Tribuna  (or  judgment-seat),  the  Municipio 
Tower  (330  ft.  high),  and  fountain  with  statue  of 
Verona.  The  adjacent  Piazza  dei  Signon,  with  impos- 
ing Municipio  palace  (1183)»  picturesque  court;  La 
hoggiay  or  Palazzo  del  Cousiglio  (1500),  with  statues 
-^f  Catullus,  Cornelius  Nepos,  Pliny,  Vitruvius,  Macar, 

^  natives  of  Verona;  and  statue  of  Dante.    Near  the 


VERONA.  309 

Ch.  of  Sta.  Maria  Antica  are  the  very  curious  and  splen- 
did Gothic  Tombs  of  the  Scaliger  family,  who  ruled 
Verona  1262-1389.  S.  Anastasia  (1261)  is  an  inter- 
esting Gothic  ch.,  with  noble  interior.  The  Arena» 
on  one  side  the  Piami  Vittorio  Evrumude  (formerly 
Brd\  is  a  well-preserved  Roman  Amphitheatre,  built 
by  Diocletian  or  Trajan,  and  covered  with  earth  and 
houses  in  the  Middle  Ages.  The  72  arcades  are  leased 
to  shop-keepers.  It  is  oval,  1,584  ft.  around  and  106  ft. 
high,  with  45  tiers,  and  can  accommodate  95,000  spec- 
tators. The  Porta  de*  Borsariy  a  triumphal  arch  built 
by  the  Emperor  Gallienus  (a.  d.  265),  is  on  the  Corso 
Cavour.  See  also  2  arches  of  Roman  bridge  ;  an  arch 
near  old  citadel ;  and  the  Arch  of  the  Lions. 

8.  Zenone,  in  N.  W.  quarter,  founded  by  Fepia 
(who  was  buried  there),  is  the  finest  mediaeval  ch.,  with 
rich  marble  fa9ade ;  very  curious  sculptures  of  Wheel 
of  Fortune,  etc. ;  portal  (1178)  resting  on  red-marble 
lions ;  doors  with  brazen  reliefs ;  a  grandiose  interior, 
with  alternate  pillars  and  columns ;  tomb  and  statue  of 
S.  Zeno ;  and  grand  12th-century  cloisters.  Near  by, 
through  cloisters  of  8.  Bernardino,  is  Sammlchelfs 
beautiful  Ga/peUa  dei  Pellegrini.  Sammicheli  also  built 
the  handsome  Stuppa  Gate  (end  of  Corso),  towards  tlie 
Castle,  now  an  arsenal,  once  the  palace  of  the  Scaligers. 
The  so-called  Tomb  of  Juliet  is  a  red-marble  sar- 
oophagus,  much  visited  by  young  ladies.  See  S,  Fertno 
Ma^giore,  rich  14th-century  Gothic  ch.,  with  walnut 
ceiling.  Palazzo  Bevilacqua,  fa9ade  by  Sanmicheli* 
Accademia  delle  Belle  Arte  (1 1),  in  imposing  Palazzo 
Pompei,  with  hundreds  of  fine  old  Veronese  paintings, 
Roman  antiques,  etc.  Giusti  Garden  (25  c.),  with 
cypresses  50()  years  old,  and  commanding  views  of  the 
Alps  and  Apennines ;  Cemetery^  surrounded  by  Doric 
colonnade ;  and  the  great  Castello  S.  Pietro, 


510     ROVEREDO.  —  MANTUA.  —  CREMONA. 

Excarsioa  to  Treniy  very  interesting,  and  thence 
down  to  Vieenza,  by  Roveredo  (9,000  mhab.),  where 
Dante  lived  in  exile.  Verona  to  Munich  by  the  Bren- 
ner, 63f  L,  47  L  55  c,  22 1. 15  c.  (see  p.  266). 

From  Verona,  you  can  visit  Mantua  (fares,  4 1.  60  c, 
3 1.  20  c,  2 1.  30  c.)  and  Modena  (fares,  11 1.  85  c,  8 1., 
5}  1.),  passing  Villafranca,  where  peace  was  made  be- 
tween France  and  Austria  in  1859.  Bilantua  (Aquila 
d'Oro;  Croce  Verde)  is  a  dull  old  fortress  (30,000 
iuhab.),  among  lakes  and  marshes.  Here  Viigu  (l)om 
3  M.  S.  £.)  lived,  and  Mantegna  and  Giulio  Eomano 
were  bom.  See  S,  Andrea  (1472),  a  vast  ch.  with 
many  monuments  and  frescos,  a  marble  fapade,  and  a 
tall  brick  tower ;  spacious  Cathedral;  old  Ducal Ptdace 
(1302),  richly  frescoed  by  Mantegna  and  Romano ; 
Accademia  Virgilianat  with  museum  of  sculpture  (grand 
view  of  Tyrolese  Alps  from  square) ;  and  Palazxo  del 
Te,  a  huge  palace  outside  the  Porta  Fusterla,  erected 
by  Romano,  and  adorned  with  bis  greatest  frescos. 

From  Milan  to  Mantua  direct,  in  6  hrs.  (fares, 
18 1.  20  c,  12f  1.,  9 1.  20  c),  by  Cremona  (Sole  d'Oro  ; 
Italia),  on  the  Po  (30,000  inhab.),  successively  Gaul- 
ish, Roman,  Gothic,  Lombard,  Austrian,  and  Italian, 
and  famous  for  its  vioUns,  and  now  a  dull  town  of  wide 
streets  and  d^aying  palaces.  See  pictures  in  Puidic 
and  Rotfal  Palaces  (9-3  daily) ;  German-Lombard 
Cathedral,  with  rich  facade  and  interior  crowded  with 
frescos;  Torrazzo  (1261-84),  a  tower  397  ft.  high, 
with  arcades  to  Cathedral ;  and  nobles'  palaces. 

Piaoenza  (Italia;  San  Mareo)  may  be  reached 
hence  by  tramway  ;  or  by  rly.  from  Milan  (7 1.  80  c, 
SJ  1.,  3  1.  90  c;  rly.  from  Milan  to  Bologna.  24  1. 
45c.,  17 1.  16  c,  l4  l).  This  town  (86,000  inhab,) 
was  founded  by  the  Romans,  b.  c.  219.    See  13th- 


VICENZA.  —  PADUA.  311 

and  equestrian  statues  of  the  Faraese  princes ;  12th- 
century  Romanesque  Cathedral,  frescoed  by  Guerciiia 
and  Caraoci;  S,  Francesco  (1278),  and  Roraagnosi'S" 
statue;  S.  Sisto  (1499-1511),  for  which  Raphael 
painted  his  noblest  Madonna  (now  at  Dresden) ;  Palazzo 
Farnese,  built  by  Vignolain  1558 ;  Citadel  (1547) ;  and 
8.  AfUoninOf  quaint  vestibule. 

Rapid  tourists  will  hasten  from  Verona  to  Venice 
direct,  passing  through  Vioenza  {SteUa  d'Oro; 
Boma;  Qran  Pa/rigi),  a  busy  town  of  40,000  inh.,  sur- 
rounded with  walls  and  moats,  and  richly  adorned  with 
buildmgs  designed  by  the  great  Palladio,  a  native  of 
Vicenza  (1518-80),  among  which  are  Casa  del  Diavolo  ; 
Palazzo  Pre/elHzio,  Teairo  Olimpico  (JL),  etc.  Also 
Basilica,  or  Palazzo  del  Consiglio,  grand  open  arcades 
around  town-hall;  Barharano,  TSene,  and  Valmarano 
palaces;  and  Palazzo  Chiei^egati,  in  which  is  Civic 
Museum  (9-5  daily),  with  many  paintings,  etc.  See 
Palazzo  della  Ragione,  very  rich  Gothic ;  Great  Tower 
(1446) ;  palaces  around  Piazza  de*  Sianori  ;  quaint  old 
bridge,  rivalling  the  Rialto ;  dull  Gothic  Cathedral;  S, 
Corona^  with  priceless  pictures ;  S.  Lorenzo ;  BertO' 
liana  Library,  with  rare  MSS. ;  and  Roman  Berga 
Theatre.  On  Mt.  Berici,  pilgrimage-ch.  of  Madonna 
del  Monte  (1428),  approached  by  arcade  of  180  pillars 
(2,145  ft.  long).  \\  M.  out  is  Villa  Botonda,  Palladio's 
work,  surrounded  by  Ionic  colonnades. 

Fadna  (Stella  d^Oro;  Oroce  d^Oroj  AguUa  Nera\. 
between  Vicenza  and  Venice,  has  80,000  inhab.,  and 
stands  on  a  rich  plain,  embowered  in  gardens.  From 
a  distance  its  domes  and  towers  and  ola  bastioned  walls 
and  bastions  present  a  noble  appearance ;  but  within  it 
appears  almost  deserted.  Its  foundation  is  attributed 
to  Antenor,  after  the  siege  of  Troy ;  and  in  the  Augus- 
tan age  it  was  the  chief  city  of  North  Italy.    Alari^ 


312  PADUA. 

and  Attila  both  sacked  it ;  and  it  was  Venetian,  1402- 
1797.  In  14tli  centnry,  Padua  had  more  artists  than 
any  city  (Giotto,  etc).  Tlie  Univenity, 

fonnded  in  1238,  was  long  the  best  in  Europe,  with 
18-20,000  students.  Galileo  was  a  professor;  Dante, 
Petrarch,  and  Tasso  were  students.  It  is  still  famous, 
and  occupies  a  handsome  old  palace,  with  spacious 
arcades.  On  a  promenade  is  a  long  line  of  statues 
(2  by  Canova)  of  illustrious  graduates,  Savonarola, 
Giotto,  etc.  II  Santo,  the  vast  Cli.  of  S.  Antonio 
(1296-1475),  300  ft.  long  and  123  ft.  high,  is  crowded 
with  paintings,  bronzes  (by  Donatello),  and  monuments 
(Bembo,  Contarini),  and  has  large  cloisters.  Taine  calls 
it  an  Italian-Gothic  building,  decorated  with  Byzantine 
cupolas,  in  which  round  domes,  noble  Greek  towers, 
little  columns  surmounted  by  ogival  arcades,  a  ffi9ade 
borrowed  from  Roman  basilicas,  and  notions  copied 
from  Venetian  palaces  mingle  the  ideas  of  several  centu- 
ries and  countnes.  In  front,  see  Donatello's  equestrian 
bronze  statue  of  Gattamelata,  a  Venetian  general ;  and 
on  the  S.,  Scnola  del  Santo^  a  hall  with  famous  frescos 
by  Titian.  S.  Giustina  (1549),  a  stately  ch.,  often  de- 
stroyed and  rebuilt,  with  marble  floor  and  rich  choir- 
stalls.  Near  by,  see  Botanic  Garden  (oldest  in  Europe) ; 
and  huge  old  monastery  (now  a  hospital.)  The  Arena 
Chapel  (1303)  is  filled  with  very  precious  frescos  by 
Giotto  (visit  at  morning,  50  c.) .  W  ear  by,  see  Eremitani 
Ch.  (1276~1306),with  monuments,  and  a  cbapel  frescoed 
by  Mantegna;  and  Scuola  del  Carmine ,  a  baptistery  with 
Titian's  frescos.  See  Cathedral  baptistery  (1260), 
frescoed  in  1380 ;  llth-century  Palazzo  deUa  Eaaione, 
with  immense  hall,  largest  known  single  roof,  and  400 
frescos ;  Falazzo  del  Podesta  and  campanile ;  and  Civie 
MmeieyA,  many  paintings.  Quiet  old  Padua  may  well 
ke  the  object  of  a  day's  excursion  from  Venice. 


-J 


VENICE.  313 

Arrive  in  Venice  at  night,  if  possible.  The  last  stat. 
is  Afestre,  whence  the  rly.  crosses  the  Lagoon  on  a 
vast  viaduct.  2  M.  long,  on  222  arches  (built  1841-45 ; 
«ost  $1 ,000,000).  The  passage  by  night  seems  a  flight 
between  sea  and  sky. 

Venice. 

Hotels.  —  Grand  Hotel  Boyal  Danieli,  in  Palazzo 
Dandolo;  Eurapay  in  Palazzo  Giustiniani;  Britannia; 

Vittoria;  Grand;  San  Marco;  Italia;  S,  GaUo;  Luna; 
BeUemie;  Pension  Suisse;    D* Angleterre ;  Calcina  ; 

Vapore,  Restaarants.  —  QuadH  /  Bauer ;  San 
Marco,  Cafes. — Florian;  Smzzero;  Specchi;  Qvadri; 
Giardino  Eeale, — all  on  or  near  Piazza  of  St.  Mark. 
Oondolas  (one  rower)  for  1-6  persons,  1 1.  per  trip,  or 
per  hr.  (two  rowers,  double  price) ;  from  steamers  to 
Piazzetta,  40  c.  Baggage  15  c.  each  piece.  Hotels 
have  their  own  gondolas  at  rly.  stats,  and  steamers. 
To  call  a  gondola,  cry  out  F^fppe.  Regular  legal 
tariff  for  rowers,  which  should  be  demanded  in  case 
of  attempted  extortion. 

Venice  is  built  on  117  islands  in  the  Lagoon,  with 
150  canals  and  878  stone  bridges,  and  has  157,000 
inhab.,  in  maritime  pursuits  (commerce  is  increasing), 
and  manufactures  of  books,  mirrors,  jewelry,  brocades, 
laces,  and  glass  (one  factory  is  now  1,200  years  old). 
It  is  7  M.  around,divided  by  the  Orand  Caiial,shaped 
like  an  S,  2  M.  long  and  150-180  ft.  wide.  The  La- 
goon is  s  shallow  lake,  25x9  M.  in  area,  connected 
with  the  Adriatic  by  4 deep  channels  through  long  and 
narrow  sandbanks,  faced  with  vast  masonry  bul- 
warks. The  main  channels  (23  ft.  deep)  admit  the 
largest  vessels.  The  tide  rises  and  falls  about  Venice. 
A  small  canal  is  called  rio;  b,  street,  ealle  or  lista; 
a  square,  eampo;  small  square,  campiello;  blind  alley. 


314  THE  PIAZZA  DI  SAN  MARCO. 

corte  ;  quay,  foiidaniento,  or  riva.  An  adequate  view 
of  Venice  requires  8-10  days ;  the  chief  sights  may  be 
visited  in  4  days.  For  sight-seeing,  the  city  may  be 
cut  into  5  parts,  —  the  region  E.  and  S.  of  Grand 
Canal ;  the  Grand  Canal ;  region  N.  and  W. ;  S.  Gior- 
gio and  Giudecca ;  remoter  islands. 

The  Piazza  di  San  Maroo  is  a  square,  576  ft. 
long  and  185-270  ft.  wide,  paved  with  gray  trachyte 
and  white  Istrian  marble,  surrounded  by  time-stahaed 
marble  palaces  and  St.  Mark's  Ch.,  and  the  picturesque 
centre  of  Venetian  life,  especially  at  evening,  when  tbe 
bands  play,  and  the  caf6s  are  crowded  by  thousands. 
Flocks  of  fat  pigeons  fed  here  by  the  city  at  2  p.m. 
daily  for  700  years.  The  palaces  enclosing  3  sides  are 
the  Procuratie  Vecchie  (N.  side),  built  15th  century 
for  home  of  the  Procurators  (who  ranked  next  to  the 
Doge),  and  now  used  for  business ;  Procuratie  Nuove 
(1584),  on  S.  side,  how  the  Royal  Palace;  and  Nuova 
Fabbrica  (W.  side,  built  by  Napoleon  in  1810,  and  the 
home  of  Austrian  viceroys  until  1866),  now  connected 
with  Royal  Palace  (handsome  rooms ;  fee,  1 1.).  The 
palace  arcades  are  occupied  by  caf^s  and  bric-a-brac 
shops.  The  vast  isolated  Gothic  Campanile  (always 
open),  322  ft.  high,  dates  from  911.  Easy  ascent  on 
inclined  plane,  and  from  top  marvellous  view  of  city. 
Lagoon,  Euganean  Mts.,  Tyrolese  peaks,  and,  across  the 
Adriatic,  the  Istrian  Alps.  The  Loqgetta,  at  foot  of 
Campanile,  is  a  pretty  vestibule,  by  Sansovino  (1640), 
with  bronze  doors,  statues,  and  reliefs.  The  Clocks 
Tower  (1496),  across  the  Piazza,  at  entrance  of  Mer. 
ceiia,  Venice's  chief  business  street,  has  a  huge  bell, 
on  which  two  bronze  Vulcans  strike  the  hours.  The 
3  lofty  cedar  flagstaffs  between  the  towers  used  to  bear 
the  hauliers  of  Cyprus,  Candia,  and  the  Morea,  king- 
doms tributary  to  Venice. 


VENICE.  315 

The  Cathedral  of  Ban  Maroo,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Piazza,  is  a  magnificent  piece  of  Venetian  Byzantine 
architectare,  built  in  976-1071,  in  form  of  Greek  cross, 
with  5  domes,  500  marble  columns,  and  46,000  sq.  ft.  of 
mosaics.  Over  the  portal  are  4  horses  of  gilded  copper, 
of  Roman  workmanship,  brought  from  Constantinople 
by  Dandolo  in  1204 ;  carried  to  Paris,  in  1797,  as  war 
trophies;  and  returned  in  1815.  Below  and  all  around, 
and  in  the  great  entrance  hall,  and  inside,  are  mosaics. 
8  fine  columns  in  vestibule;  also,  3  red  slabs  com- 
memorating the  reconciliation  of  Barbarossa  and  Pope 
Alexander  III.  (1177);  and  the  porphyry  sarcophagus 
of  Daniele  Manin,  last  President  of  Venice  (1848). 
The  interior  —  Gautier's  "a  golden  cavern,  incrusted 
with  precious  stones,  at  once  splendid  and  sombre, 
sparkling  and  mysterious  "  —  is  258  X  210  ft.  in  area, 
with  slippery  and  uneven  11th-century  marble  pave, 
ment,  colored-marble  pulpits,  marble  statues  (made  in 
1393)  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  Sansovino's  bronze 
statues  of  the  Evangelists,  and  sumptuous  chapels. 
See  high  altar,  with  canopy  of  verde-antico,  over  tomb 
of  St.  Mark  the  Apostle ;  aliar  behind  it,  with  4  spiral 
alabaster  columns,  2  of  which  belonged  to  Solomon's 
Temple;  Treasury,  with  Doge  Morosini's  sword,  St. 
Mark's  throne,  a  bit  of  St.  John's  skull,  piece  of  True 
Cross,  etc. ;  Sacristy  (mosaics  and  inlaid  work)  and 
Crypt,  with  64  columns ;  Baptistery,  with  bronze  font 
and  tomb  of  Andrea  Dandolo  (1354) ;  Zen  Chapel,  with 
magnificent  tomb,  altar,  and  statuary;  Sansovino's 
bronze  door,  leading  to  Sacristy ;  etc. 

The  Pislzzetta  is  a  small  square,  running  from  S. 
Marco  to  the  Lagoon,  on  whicb  stand  2  granite  columns, 
brought  from  Syria  in  1120,  and  supporting  statues  of 
St.  'Theodore  and  the  Winged  Lion  of  St.  Mark.  On 
one  side  is  the  finely  sculptured  Libreria  Fecchia,  buil*" 


816  DOGES'   PALACE. —ARSENAL. 

by  Sansoyino  in  1582,  and  now  part  of  Royal  Palace 
I'he  great  hall  was  frescoed  by  Veronese,  for  which 
Venice  gave  him  a  gold  collar.    Alongside  is  the  pld 
Mini,  back  of  which  is  the  Bqyal  Garden.    Opposite 
is  the  Doges'  Palace,  with  fapade  246  ft.  lon^,  and 
fa9ade  of  234  ft.  toward  the  sea.    It  was  built  ia  800, 
and  5  times  destroyed  and  re-erected.    Most  of  present 
palace  dates  from  1350.    The  red  and  white  marbles, 
Oriental  designs,  and  Venetian-Gbthic  arches,  combine 
very  richlv.    36  columns  in  lower  arcade,  and  71  above, 
in  the  rich  Loggia^  with  quaint  capitals.    Ascend  Sau- 
sovino's  Giants*  Staircase,  between  colossal  statues  of 
Mars  and  Neptune,  where  the  doges  were  crowned; 
and  observe  beautiful  court,  with  statues,  cisterns,  and 
part  of  Silvio  Pellico's  cell.    Inside,  see  Sansovino's 
QoUen  Staircase;  Rail  of  Great  Chuncil,  165  X  84  ft., 
with  portraits  of  76  doges,  21  vast  old  historical  pic- 
tures, and  Tintoretto's  "  Paradise ; "  Sala  del  Scruiinio, 
39  doges'   portraits,   and  many  paintings ;    Library, 
with  famous  MS8. ;  Archaohgical  Museum,  5  rooms  of 
ancient  marble  sculptures ;  Sala  delta  Bussola ;  Hall 
of  Council  of  Ten ;  and   manv  others,  crowded  with 
paintings,  and  rich  in  historical  associations.    Obliging 
guardians  in  all  rooms,  with  plans,  etc. 

The  Molo,  headquarters  of  gondoliers,  is  connected 
with  the  busy  quay  of  the  Riva  dei  Schiavoni  by  a 
bridge,  whence  good  view  of  Bridge  of  8iglui»  leading 
from  the  Palace  to  the  Prison  (1512-97),  and  made 
famous  by  Byron  (Ruskin  blames  his  **  ignorant  seiiti- 
mentalism  ").  You  may  visit  the  Pozzi,  low  dungeons 
where  state-prisoners  were  deprived  of  light  and  (adost) 
of  air ;  and  see  where  the  pofitical  executions  occurred, 
and  bodies  were  given  to  the  gondoliers.  In  the 
Arsenal  (open  l(>-4),  founded  1104,  were  built  tne 
fleets  of  the  Crusaders.     16,000  men  were  once  ena< 


VENICE.  317 

ployed  here  (now  2,000).  At  portal,  4  marble  lions, 
brought  from  Greece  iu  1697,  one  of  which  is  said  to 
h^ve  stood  on  Marathon.  See  military  museum,  Bm* 
cenianr,  rare  weapons,  Henri  IV.'s  armor,  Attila*s 
helmet,  etc. 

Take  gondola  and  visit  chs.  E.  and  N.  of  Qrand 
Canal,  reople  help  you  ashore  at  landings,  and  expect 
a  penny.  Tne  great  Italian-Gothic  Ch.  of  Banti  Gio- 
vanni'e  Paolo  is  the  Venetian  Pantheon,  filled  with 
imposing  mausoleums  of  doges,  statesmen,  and  warriors 
(see  those  of  Mocenigo,  Bragadino,  the  Valiers,  Ven- 
dramin,  and  Giustiniani),  and  valuable  old  pictures  and 
statues.  In  S.  transept  is  a  window  of  stained  glass 
(1473),  which  is  rare  in  Venice.  The  ch.  was  founded 
in  1240;  and  the  funerals  of  the  doges  always  took 
place  here.  Ou  adjacent  square,  see  ancient  equestrian 
statue  of  Colleoni,  a  Venetian  general.  Close  ny  is  the 
richly  carved  Scuola  di  S.  Marco  (1485),  once  head- 
quarters of  a  charitable  society,  now  part  of  vast  hospi- 
tal. To  S.  Zaccaria  (1457),  a  Romanesque  ch.,  with 
paintings  by  Bellini,  the  doges  used  to  go  in  solemn 
procession  at  beginning  of  Lent.  S.  StefanOy  where 
Luther  once  said  Mass,  is  14th-century  Gothic,  with 
many  statues  and  a  beautiful  cloister  adjacent.  See, 
in  S.  Maria  del  Orto  (1481),  splendid  Tintorettos; 
S.  Salvatore  (1534),  remarkable  pictures ;  8.  Maria  dei 
Miracoli  (1480),  a  Byzantine  Renaissance  ch.,  encased 
in  marble,  with  rich  vaulting ;  Gli  Scalzi  (1649),  mag- 
nificent ch.  of  Carmelites,  overladen  with  decorations  of 
the  Decadence ;  S.  Francesco  delta  Vigna  (1534),  rich 
carvings  and  chapels  of  nobles ;  S.  Pietro  di  CastsUo, 
Venice's  cathedral  from  1596  to  1807,  with  a  fine  cam- 
panile.  A  second  trip  may  include  the  chs.  8.  and  W. 
of  the  Grand  Canal:  8.  MaHa  della  8alute  (1631), 
whose  high  dome  is  conspicuous  in  pictures  of  Venir 


318  FRARI.— .GRAND  CANAL. 

a  sumptuous  cb.,  witli  many  statues  and  paintings, 
adjoining  Patriarchal  Seminary  (with  rich  Horary  and 
pictures) ;  S.  Sebastiano  (1506),  with  tomb  (see  Latin 
epitaph)  of  Paul  Veronese,  and  several  of  his  paintings, 
and  organ  designed  by  him ;  8.  Fantaleone  (1668), 
very  ancient  paintings;  S.  Giovanni Memosinario  (1627), 
near  Rial  to ;  S  Giacometto  (820),  a  venerable  basilica. 
The  tast  Italian-Gothic  Frari,  or  Franciscan  ch.  (1250), 
contains  many  famous  works  of  art,  costly  modern 
monument  of  ^ray  marble  to  Titian,  tombs  of  Canova 
(designed  by  himself)  and  of  several  doges  and  generals. 
In  monastery  adjacent  300  rooms  contain  14,000,000 
documents,  some  dating  from  883.  S.  Rocco  (1490, 
rebuilt  1725)  has  fine  paintings.  Alongside  is  the  splen- 
did Renaissance  Scuola  di  S.  Rocco  (1415-1550]|,  crowd- 
ed with  pictures  by  Tintoretto  (now  sombre  in  tone), 
and  with  beautiful  fa9ade,  staircase,  and  great  halls. 
This  council-hall  of  charity  is  grouped  with  the  Pisan 
Campo  Santo  and  the  Sistine  Chapel,  by  art-lovers. 

The  Grand  Canal  should  be  traversed  by  gondola, 
between  its  lines  of  famous  palaces.  On  the  1.,  see 
Dogana  (Custom-House),  witli  statue  of  Fortuna  on 
tower ;  r.,  Palazzi  Giustiniani  (Hotel  Europa)  and 
Emo-Trhves  (with  Canova's  Hector  and  Ajax;  .fee, 
I L).  On  the  1.,  Patriarchal  Seminary  and  S.  Maria 
della  Salute.  Thence  the  canal  passes  between  palaces 
Tiepolo  (H6tel  Barbesi),  Contanni,  Perro,  Fini-Wimp* 
ffen.  Comer  della  Ca  Grande,  and  Barbaro,  on  the  r., 
and  Dario-Angarani,  Venier,  Da  Mula,  and  Zichy- 
Esterhazy,  on  the  1.,  and  then  between  Count  Cham- 
bord's  splendid  Palazzo  Cavalli  (r.)  and  the  vast  Palazzo 
Manzoui'Jngiarini  (L),  and  unaer  an  iron  bridge- 
Close  to  this,  on  1.,  is  the  Accademia  delle  Belle 
Arti  (daily,  9-4 ;  50  c. ;  buy  catalogue),  with  700  fin© 
pictures,  mainly  by  Venetian  masters,  Titian,  Bellini, 


VENICE.  319 

Giorgione,  Palma,  etc.,  with  some  modern  works,  and 
many  drawings  by  Raphael  and  Angelo,  in  noble  old 
monastic  halls.  This  is  one  of  the  great  sights  of 
Venice.  Beyond  (1.),  see  Palazzi  Contarini,  Rezzonico^ 
Oiustiniani,  Foscari  (here  the  caual  bends),  JBalbi, 
Fisani,  etc.,  and  on  r.,  Falazzi  Chrassi,  Moro-Lin,  Con- 
tarini,  and  Mocenigo,  the  latter  a  triple  palace,  in  which 
Byron  wrote  parts  of  Don  Juan,  etc.  (1818),  and  where 
now  is  an  art-collection.  Farther  on  (r.),  see  Palazzi 
Comer  Spinelli,  Cavallini,  Grimani  (Corte  d'Appello), 
Farsetti  (town-hall),  12th-century  Loredan  (once  home 
of  King  of  Cyprus),  Dandolo  ((jothic),  Bembo,  and 
Manin  (now  National  Bank).  Then,  half-way  through 
the  canal,  comes  tiie  famous 

Rialto,  a  brid^  of  one  Istrian-marble  arch  (1588- 
91),  covered  with  shops,  and  running  from  the  fruit- 
market  to  the  fish-market.  Below  (I.),  see  Renaissance 
Palazzo  de*  Cajnerlenghi  (1525),  opposite  ponderous 
Fondaco  de'  Tedeschi,  built  1506  (frescoed  by  Titian)  for 
a  German  warehouse.  Beyond  Rialto,  PewA^ta  (fish- 
market),  on  1. ;  Palazzi  Michieli  and  Sagredo,  on  r. ; 
Palazzo  Corner  della  Regina  (now  pawn-office),  on  site 
of  Catharine  Cornaro's  home  (1.).  Nearly  opposite  is 
the  Ga  d^Oro,  Raskin's  favorite,  and  a  very  noble  palace. 
The  Palazzi  Fontana  and  Grimani  are  beyoncf  (r.) ; 
also,  Palazzo  Pesaro  (1.),  whose  rich  halls  are  opeii 
daily  (11.)-  Nearly  opposite  each  other,  see  Palazzo 
Vendramin  (Merghi,  the  magnificent  modern  palace  of 
Count  de  Chaiiib'ord  (open  daily,  1 1.),  and  the  Fondaco 
de*  Turchi,  once  headquarters  of  Turkish  merchants 
(here  see  Corner  Musetfm,  open  Wed.  and  Sat.,  13-4, 
with  MSS.  and  paintings  about  Venetian  history). 
At  the  Palazzo  Labia  the  Canareggio  diverges  to  the 
r.  It  contains  the  Palazzo  Manfrin,  with  large  picture- 
gallery  (open  19-8,  J 1.).    Beyond  iron  bridge  and  rlj. 


320  S.   LAZZARO. — MURANO. 

atat.,  tbe  Grand  Canal  enters  the  Lagoon,  by  the  island 
of  S,  Chiara,  Near  the  stat.  are  the  famous  Papado- 
poli  and  Botanical  gardens.  The  theatres  are  the 
ienice,  seating  3,000  peo^ple,  Goldoni,  Bosdni^ Ma/rion- 
4itte,  and  Mcuibran.  See  Tintoretto's  house,  in  the 
Campo  dei  Mori ;  and  Titian's  house,  in  the  Sanciano. 
Just  S.  of  the  city  are  the  islands  of  La  Giudecca,  with 
Palladio*s  Redentore  ch.  (Franciscan) ;  and  S.  Giorgio 
Maggiore,  with  a  great  Benedictine  monastery,  cruci- 
form ch.  by  Palladio,  full  of  art-treasures,  and  cam> 
panile  which  gives  superb  view.  Bather  shabby  Fublic 
Gardens,  S.  £.  part  of  city.  2  M.  S.  E.  is  the  island 
of  S.  Lazsaro,  with  great  Armenian  monastery. 

The  islands  were  nrst  colonized  by  fugitives  from 
the  mainland  towns,  ravaged  by  Attila.  In  697  the 
first  doge  was  chosen;  and  in  819  the  present  site  of 
Venice  became  a  capital.  During  the  Crusades  the 
republic  grew  rapidlj,  and  conquered  the  coasts  and 
islands  of  the  Adriatic  and  Levant.  For  300  years  its 
power  was  vast,  and  Venice  was  Europe's  chief  port. 
In  1508  its  star  began  to  wane.  By  1/18  it  was  quite 
decadent.  In  1797  the  French  captured  the  city,  wnicb 
was  afterwards  annexed  to  Austria*  In  1866  it  became 
Italian. 

Excursions,  —  To  the  Lido  (J  hr.  by  gondola ;  60  c. 
to  go  and  return;  steamer  in  12  min.,  30c.),  the  beach 
on  the  Adriatic,  with  fine  baths  (La  Favorita,  1 1 )  and 
summer-hotels.  —  To  Malamocco,  at  S.  end  ot  Lido ; 
and  Chioggia  (steamer,  1^-2 1.)>  30  M.  S.,  an  ancient 
lagoon-town  (27,000  inhab.).  —  To  the  Cemetery ^  on  2 
islands  to  the  N.,  with  S.  Michele  ch.  (1466).  Funeral 
processions  of  gondolas  very  interesting.  —  To  Murano 
(4,000  inhab.),  \\  M.  N.,  with  famous  gkss  and  mosaic 
Victories,  museum  of  old  glass  (40  c),  a  magnificent 
Cathedral  (1111),  and  Ch.  of  S,  Pietro  e  Faolo  (15C9), 


FERBARA.  321 

a  noble  and  simple  basilica.    The  Mnrano  school  of 
art  preceded  that  of  Venice.  —  To  Torcello,  6  M.  N.  E. 

52  hrs.  by  condola),  once  rich  and  great,  now  poor  and 
epopulated,  but  with  a  wonderful  Tth-oentury  Cathe* 
dral,  famous  for  grand  mosaics ;  an  octagonal  Bapiis* 
tery  (1008);  and  S.  Fosca,  a  strange  ISth-oentury 
Byzantine  ch.,  surrounded  by  arcades. 

Steamers,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  at  midnight  for 
Trieste.  (7  hrs. ;  fares,  9  fl.,  6  fl.  60  kr.).  Rly,  Venice 
to  Trieste,  7Jhr8.  (fares,  30  L  55  c.,  221.  40  c.). 

Ferrara,  Bologna,  Modena,  and  Parma. 

It  is  101  M.  (fares,  19 1.  45  c,  141.  6  c,  10 1.)  from' 
Venice  through  venerable  Padua;  Rovigo  (CoroTia 
Ferrea  and  other  hotels),  with  its  vast  palace  and  pic- 
ture-gallery;  and  Ferrara,  to  Bologna.  Ferrara 
{Europa;  Stella  d^Oro;  i^Vjft?;*  Pan^t),  In  a  miasmatic 
plain  near  tlic  Po,  has  shrunk  from  100,000  to  29,000 
mhab.,  and  has  many  wide  empty  streets  and  crumbling 
pahices.  In  the  golden  era  of  the  House  of  Este 
(1300-1600)  it  was  famous  for  art  and  letters,  and 
Ariosto  and  Tasso  lived  at  its  court.  See  Lombardic 
Cathedral  (1135),  imposing  facade,  many  pictures,  and 
handsome  campanile  (1550)  ;  S.  Benedetto,  with  paint- 
ing of  Paradise,  in  which  Ariosto  had  his  portrait  in- 
troduced; S.  Francesco,  several  domes;  S,  Maria  in 
Fado,  very  ancient ;  S.  Paolo ;  monuments  to  Ariosto 
and  Savonarola ;  houses  of  Ariosto  and  Guarini ;  TJni'- 
versity,  with  library  of  100,000  vols.  (MSS.  of  Pastor 
Fido,  and  parts  of  Oerusalemme  and  Orlando  Furioso), 
museum,  and  tomb  of  Ariosto;  St.  Jnna's  Hospital, 
where  Tasso  was  imprisoned  7  years  in  a  cell,  since 
visited  by  Byron,  Lamartine,  and  Goethe;  and  Po* 
iazzo  de'  Liamanti  (1493-1567),  with  the  CJivic  Picture* 
21 


322  BOLOGNA. 

r 

Gallery  (open,  9-3  free),  8  rooms  filled  with  ancient 
paintings.  The  Castle  is  a  huge  old  square  fortress, 
in  the  centre  of  Ferrara,  with  4  towers,  deep  moats,  and 
frescoed  halls.  It  is  the  scene  of  Byron's  tragic  Pctrisina. 
Bologna  (Hdtel  Brun;  deV Europe;  Pellegrinoy  Di 
Milano),  capital  of  Romagna  (136,000  inhab.)  stands  on 
a  rich  plain  near  the  Apennines,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
brick  wall,  3-4  M.  around,  with  12  gates.  An  Etruscan 
town ;  conquered  by  Gauls ;  allied  with  Carthage ; 
occupied  by  Rome,  b.c.  190 ;  then  Greek,  Lombard, 
Frank ;  a  free  town  under  Charlemagne ;  anti-imperial 
(Guelph) ;  annexed  to  States  of  the  Church  in  1512, 
and  to  Italy  in  1859.  Its  splendid  Roman  temples, 
theatres,  and  batlis  were  swept  away  by  the  barbarians. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  art-school  of  tlje  Caracci ;  and 
the  home  of  Francia,  Albano,  Domenichino,  Guido 
Reni,  and  Guercino  (see  houses  of  last  two ;  and  of 
Rossini,  the  composer,  a  native  of  Bologna).  S. 
Fetronio  (1390)  is  a  vast  Tuscan-Gothic  ch.  (half 
linished),  384  ft.  long,  156  ft.  wide,  with  many  rich 
chapels,  mural  paintings,  and  sculptures.  Fapade  has 
many  sculptures  (made  1394-1525)  of  biblical  sub- 
jects. Michael  Angelo's  statue  of  Pope  Julius  II.  was 
broken  in  pieces  by  tlie  people  (1511).  Charles  V. 
was  crowued  Emperor  here  (1530).  S.  Domenico 
contains  splendid  tomb  of  St.  Dominic,  with  sculptures 
by  Michael  Angelo;  and  tombs  of  Guido  Reni  and 
Elisabetta  Sirani.  The  University  is  in  Palazzo 
GeOesi,  with  1,400  students ;  library  of  160,000  vols, 
(open  9-3),  once  conducted  by  Mezzofanti;  large 
museums  of  geology,  antiquities,  etc.  It  dates  from 
1119,  and  once  had  10,000  students,  and  several  female 

?rofessors.     The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (open  9-3.30 ; 
L)  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  Italy,  and  has 
Raphaers  St.  Cecilia. 


BOLOGNA.  823 

See,  in  S.  Bartolommeo,  horrible  portrayal  of  martyr- 
dom of  St.  Bartholomew ;  S.  Cecilia  (1481),  frescos  by 
Francia,  and  nunnery  of  St.  Catherine  Vigri;  S. 
Stefano,  a  group  of  7  ens.,  with  rare  old  Celestine  clois- 
ter; 8.  Giovanni  in  Monte  (a.d.  433),  precious  paintings; 
S.  Vitale{^.i>.  428),  lately  restored;  and  other  very  no- 
table and  ancient  ciis.  Also,  Palazzo  Publico  (1290), 
ancient  frescos,  statues,  chapel,  and  Bramante's  stair- 
case; Palazzo  del  Podesta  (1201),  where  King  Enzio, 
son  of  the  Emperor,  was  imprisoned  many  years ;  Oplo- 
teca,  museum  of  weapons ;  leaning  towers  of  Asinelli 
(1109 ;  272  ft.  high ;  grand  view  of  mts.)  and  Gari- 
senda  (1110;  mentioned  in  Dante*s  Inferno)  \  Archi- 
ginnasio  (1572),  town  library  (open  10-4),  museum  of 
antiquities,  Galvani's  anatomical  lecture-room  ;  Palazzo 
Bentivoglio,  16th  century,  on  site  of  old  Castle;  Pa- 
lazzo Fava,  and  Colleglo  di  Spagna  (1364),  frescos  by 
Caracci ;  Loggia  de  Mercanti  (1294),  venerable  Gothic 
exchange ;  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele,  and  S.  Domenico, 
fountain  and  statues ;  Palazzo  Pepoli  (1344),  vast  and 
imposing ;  Palazzo  Zampieri,  with  great  picture-gallery 
(1 1.)  ;  and  many  other  palaces. 

La  Montagnola  is  a  plateau  and  public  garden, 
with  views  of  Bologna  and  the  Apennines,  f  M.  S.  is 
S,  Michde  in  Bosco,  orthopedic  institute,  formerly  con- 
vent founded  by  St.  Basil  in  4th  century,  in  whose  ch. 
and  cloistei-s  Guido  and  the  Caracci  left  noble  paint- 
ings. 2J  M.  S.  W.is  the  Madon  na  di  6.  Luea,B,  pilgrim- 
age-ch.  on  strongly  fortified  hill,  approached  by  arcade 
1  M.  long  (635  arches;  100  years  in  building),and  view- 
ing Apennines  and  Adriatic.  It  contains  portrait  of  the 
Virgin,  ascribed  to  St.  Luke ;  brought  from  Constanti- 
nople in  1160.  On  the  way  hither,  visit  La  Oertosa, 
a  Carthusian  monastery  (1335),  whose  cloisters  now 
contain  very  interesting  Campo  Santo  (cemetery),  with 


324  MODENA.  —  PARMA. 

rich  monnments,  a  statue-adorned  rotunda,  and  a  coles- 
sal  lion  commemorating  the  martjrs  for  libeity. 

If  you  intend  going  S.  to  Rome,  and  thence  N. 
along  the  Mediterranean,  it  is  well  to  make  a  side-trip 
from  Bologna  to  Modena  (23  M.)  and  Parma  (54  M.). 

Modena  (^Albergo  Reale ;  S.  Marco),  an  ancient 
ducal  capital  (58,000  inhab.),  was  once  an  important 
Roman  town,  where  Antouv  besieged  Brutus  (b.c.  43), 
on  the  Fia  Emilia,  from  Rome  to  the  N.  A  stately 
city,  surrounded  with  ramparts,  on  which  are  prome- 
nades. See  Cathedral  (1099-1184),  with  Arthurian 
sculptures  (1100),  rose- window,  monumental  tombs> 
and  lofty  colonnaded  crypt;  renowned  Campanile^ 
called  La  Ghirlandina  (1224-1319),  335  ft.  high,  en- 
cased in  white  marble,  with  wooden  bucket  taken  from 
the  Bolognese  in  1325  (Tassoni,  who  wrote  a  poem 
about  it,  has  a  statue  near  by) ;  S.  Michele,  in  which 
Muratori  is  buried;  Begarelli's  Pieta,  which  Michael 
Angelo  praised ;  Public  Gardens;  and  ramparts,  with 
views  of  Apennines.  The  vast  and  magnificent  Palazzo 
Reale  (formerly  Ducal  Palace)  has  noble  facade  on 
Piazza  Reale,  and  a  courtyard  surrounded  by  colon- 
nades. See  Library,  120,000  vols,  and  3,000  MSS. 
(14th-century  edition  of  Daute) ;  cabinets  of  medals 
and  gems,  and  archives ;  large  gallery  of  pictures  (open 
9-3),  many  of  which  are  copies,  a  fact  wliich  the  cata- 
logue omitis  to  state. 

W9xmaL(GroceBianca;  Concordia;  Italia)  was  found- 
ed by  the  Etruscans ;  became  Roman,  b.c.  183  ;  was 
Lomnardic,  a  citv  of  Charlemagne,  of  the  Holy  See^  a 
Guel{^c  stronghold;  seat  of  the  Paruese  princes^ 
1545-1731;  and  capital  of  Duchy  from  1815  unti! 
1869,  when  it  fell  to  Italy  (45,000  inhab.).  The 
Roman  Fia  Emilia  cuts  through  its  centre ;  and  dreary, 
silent  streets  diverge  on  both  sides.     Parma  is  sur- 


REGGIO.  —  RAVENNA.  325 

rounded  by  great  walls,  with  5  gates  and  a  strong 
citadel.  See  BomauesQue  CatTiedral  (13  century;, 
with  notable  crypt,  rich  monuments,  and  Corre^o'^  ^ 
vast  and  world-renowned  fresco  of  The  Assumption;  I 
BapHsterif  (1196-1270),  octaffonal  marble  ch.,  with  { 
colonnades,  quaint  carvings,  old  frescos;  S,  CHovanni 
Eoangelista  (1510),  remarkable  frescos  by  Corre^o- 
in  dome  and  cloisters ;  Madonna  delta  Steccata  (1521), 
fine  frescos,  and  tombs  of  notables;  Convent  of  S^ 
Paolo  (50  c.),  with  Correggio's  famous  lunettes  and 
Diana;  Farnese  Theatre  (50c.);  Stradone,  promenade 
near  citadel ;  and  Public  Garden,  with  an  old  Farnese 
chateau,  richly  frescoed.  The  Duoal  Palace  (Farnese),. 
founded  1597,  bas  museums  of  antiquities  and  pictures 
(open  9-4; ;  1 1.),  with  many  funous  works  of  Correggio 
and  the  Caracci,  including  Corr^io's  Scala  and  Sco- 
della  Madonnas  and  St.  Jerome  (11  Giomo).  TheLibrary 
has  206,000  vols.,  and  many  Oriental  MS8.  Picturesque 
old  road  from  Parma  to  Im  Spezia,  on  Gulf  of  Genoa. 

Reggio  (Potto),  between  Parma  and  Modena,, 
(50,000  inliab.),  with  notable  walls,  citadel,  theatre, 
and  cathedral,  fine  chs.,  and  Ariosto's  birthplace,  is  9 
M.  from  Corregglo,  the  great  artist's  birthplace-,  and 
4  hrs.  drive  from  reins  of  Canoasa,  where  Henry  IV. 
of  Grermany  performed  penance  before  Pope  Gregory 
VII.  (1077). 

Ravenna,  Rimini,  Anoona,  Brindisi, 
and  Taranto. 

From  Bologna  it  is  52i  M.  (9J1.,  61.  70  c.,  4L 
80  c.)  to  Ravenna  (San  Marco/  iypada  d*Oro),  a  Thee- 
salian  colony,  once  capita]  of  Roman  empire;  captured 
by  Odoacer  and  Theoidoric;  capital  of  the  Gothic  kings^ 
498-552  ;  thence  for  200  years  capital  of  Exarchs,  or 


326  BAVENNA.— DANTE'S  TOMB. 

eovemors  sent  by  Greek  emperors;  taken  by  Lom- 
Bards,  and  by  Pepin  of  France,  who  gave  it  to  the 
Pope ;  Venetian  garrison,  14!4;0-1509 ;  and  attached  to 
States  of  the  Church,  1509-1860.  It  is  now  a  dreamy 
town  of  12,000  inhab.,  very  ricli  in  early  Christian  art ; 
and  5  M.  from  tlie  Adriatic,  of  which  it  was  once  a 
chief  port.  Dante's  Tomb  (1482),  a  dome-covered 
structure,  with  carvings,  contains  the  ashes  (discovered 
in  1865  in  ch.  of  S.  Francesco)  of  the  poet,  who 
died  here,  in  exile  and  under  excommunication,  in  1321. 
Byron  lived  at  Ravenna  2  years,  and  wrote  several 
^reat  poems.  See  site  of  the  house  where  Dante 
lived;  in  Piaasa  Vittoria  Emanuele,  tall  columns  with 
statues,  erected  by  the  Venetians  in  1494,  and  colon- 
nade of  old  basilica;  Cathedral,  on  site  of  4th-century 
ch.,  with  8th-century  minaret-like  campanile,  6th-cen- 
tury  tombs,  and  silver  crucifix,  and  paintings  by  Guide ; 
4th-century  octagonal  Baptistery^  with  5th-century 
font  and  mosaics  (Baptism  of  Christ,  etc.)  ;  Archiepisco- 
pal  Palace,  5th-century  chapel,  25,000  parchments  in 
archives ;  S.  Apollinare,  built  in  500  by  Theodoric  for 
the  Arians,  and  given  by  Justinian  to  the  Catholics, 
with  round  campanile,  24  columns  from  Constantinople, 
and  many  6th-century  mosaics ;  S.  ^?V^/#^onsecrated 
in  547  by  St.  Maximian,  copied  from  S.  Sophia,  at 
Constantinople,  octagonal,  with  massive  pillars,  many 
beautiful  and  brilliant  mosaics  of  Justmian's  time, 
Greek  and  Roman  reliefs,  and  a  dome  of  earthen  vases 
bound  together ;  Matuoleum  of  Galla  Placidia,  built 
440  by  Empress  Galla  Placidia,  small  domed  cruciform 
oh.,  with  mosaics,  and  sarcophagi  of  Honorius  and 
Constantius  III.  (the  only  Roman  emperors  whose 
tombs  remain  undisturbed) ;  Academy  of  Fine  Arts 
(75  c),  pictures  by  Ravennese  masters,  vases,  bronzes ; 
Library  (open  9-2)  of  50,000  vols.,  and  many  rare 


RIMINI. —SAN  MARINO.  327 

MSS.,  ia  old  Monastery  of  Classe,  which  has  frescoed 
refectory;  S.  Niccolo  (760),  now  deserted;  S.  Gio- 
vatmi  Evaugelista  (444),  near  riy.  stat.,  24  antique  col- 
umns, and  frescos  by  Giotto ;  remains  of  Palaoe  of 
Theodoric  ;  and  many  other  old  chs.  and  great  palaces. 

Outside  the  Porta  Serrata  is  the  tomb  of  Theodoric 
the  Great  (530),  a  ponderous  structure  (now  a  ch.) 
covered  with  a  block  of  Istrian  stone  36  ft.  in  diameter. 
S.  Maria  in  Porta  Fuori,  2i  M.  oat,  is  an  open-roofed 
basilica  (1096).  S.  ApoUinare  in  GUtsse  (k.D.  534), 
3  M.  out,  is  a  magnificent  basilica,  with  24  cipolline 
columns,  open  roof,  6th-century  mosaics,  a  noble  altar, 
and  portraits  of  126  bishops  of  Ravenna,  from  St. 
Apollinaris  (martyred  a.d.  74)  to  the  present.  Beyond 
is  Iia  Pineta,  the  famous  and  venerable  pine-forest, 
known  to  the  Romans,  praised  by  Byron,  Boccaccio, 
Dante,  etc.,  and  covering  many  leagues.  Highway 
along  coast  to  Rimini,  31  M. 

The  rly.  S.  E.  from  Bologna  traverses  Imola  ;  Gastei 
Bologne»e;  Faensa  (Corona;  Tre  Mort),  a  walled 
town  of  20,000  inhab.,  with  great  citadel  and  potteries 
(whence  Faience) ;  Ibrli  (17,000  inhab.),  at  foot  of 
Apennines,  with  fine  cathedral  and  castles;  Gesena  with 
handsome  palaces  and  rare  library  ;  Rimini  (Nuovo  ; 
Aquila  <f  Oro)y  a  pretty  city  (33,000  inhab.)  and  sum- 
mer-resort on  the  Adriatic,  with  magnificent  classical 
cathedral,  dilapidated  Malatesta  Pahce,  Roman  tri- 
umphal  arch  and  bridge,  and  house  of  Francesca  da 
Rimini  (25  I.  for  carriage  thence,  15  M.,  to  San  Marino,t 
capital  of  Republic  of  same  name,  the  oldest  govern- 
ment in  Europe).  The  rly.  follows  the  Adriatic  to 
Peaaro,  birthplace  of  Rossini,  where  there  are  fine 
chs.,  a  rich  library,  and  the  old  Palace  of  Dukes  of 
Urbino,  once  a  brilliant  hterary  centre.  Here  Tasso 
wrote  the  Amadis.    Diligence  in  6  hrs.  (21^  M.)  to 


328  ANCONA.  —  PISTOJA. 

XTrbino  (Italia),  a  town  of  16,000  inhab.,  surrounded 
by  sombre  mts.  Raphael's  birthplace  is  shown ;  also, 
^rand  Eenaissanee  Ducal  Palaee,  and  chs.  rich  in  art. 

Ancona  (La  Pace  ;  Fittoria)  is  built  on  an  amphi- 
theatrical  hillside  facing  the  Adriatic,  and  has  46,000 
inhab.,  with  high-placed  semi-Oriental  cathedral  (col- 
umns from  the  Temple  of  Venus),  colossal  statue  of 
Oavour,  handsome  palaces,  and  (on  the  Mda)  tri- 
umplial  arch  reared  by  the  Roman  Senate,  a.d.  1 1 2,  to 
Trajan,  and  another  in  honor  of  Pope  Clement  XIl. 

11-14  hrs.  distant  by  rly.  (621.  80  c.,  441.,  311. 
40  0.)  is  Btindiai  {Hotd  des  Indes  Orientates/  Wuropa, 
tolerable),  once  an  important  Roman  naval  station » 
and  now  the  chief  point  of  departure  for  the  East 
Indies,  on  the  mail-route  from  England  to  India.  It  is 
growing  rapidly  (17,000  inhab.),  and  is  visited  by 
steamers  for  Adriatic,  Greek,  Italian,  and  Levautine 
ports  (3  days  to  Alexandria).  Here  the  Appian  Way 
€nded ;  and  here  Virgil  died. 

52f  M.  hence  by  rly.  (10 1.  60  c,  6 1.  70  c,  4 1.  80  c.) 
to  Otrauto,  a  port  on  the  heel  of  the  Italian  boot. 
Branch  rly.  from  Ban  to  Taranto  {Rama  ;  Buropa), 
with  richly  decorated  Cathedral  and  strong  castle. 

Ancona  to  Rome  by  rly.,  183  M.  (351.,  241.  70c.). 
Pew  tourists  will  go  S.  of  Ravenna  on  this  coast. 

Bologna  to  Florence,  in  82  M.  (5-6  hrs. ;  fares, 
141.  20c.,  101.  45  c.,  71.  55  c.),  bj  remarkably  pictu- 
resque rly.  across  the  Apennines,  with  many  very  costly 
bridges,  tunnels,  galleries,  and  viaducts,  and  down  to 
the  nch  Tuscan  plains  (superb  views) .  Pistoj a  ( Ghbo ; 
liomnt)  18  an  ancient  town  of  13,000  inhab.,  at  foot 
of  Apennines,  rich  in  13th  and  14th-century  sculptures, 
and  a  favorite  summer-resort  for  Florentines.  Pistols 
are  named  from  this  town.  Catiline  was  defeated  and 
killed  near  by.    See,  in  12th-century  Cathedral,  monu- 


FliORENOi^.  329 

ments,  choir-stalls,  and  silver  altar ;  Ckmpanile,  once  a 
fortified  tower ;  Italian-Gothic  Baptisteiy,  of  black  and 
white  marble ;  8,  Andrea,  splendid  pulpit  (1298-1301) 
and  carved  architrave;  several  other  rich  chs.  and 
massive  old  palaces ;  and  suburban  Filla  Puccini,  in 
beautiful  garaens. 

Fistcja  to  Pisa,  40i  M.  (6 1.  60  c.,  5  1.  35  c,  4il.)  ; 
to  Florence,  21J  M. ;  45  min. 

Florence. 

'aottllM.^Grand  HStd  R^al;  De  la  Paix;  Dela 
Ville  Italia/  New  Ttrrk ;  Savoy;  Arno ;  Watili- 
ington;  De  Rume;  Bandana;  Vittoria ;  Ckyrona 
d  'Italia;  Anglo-American;  Pension  de  Londres;  Du 
Nord;  Continental;  Cavour;  Minerva;  Cittddi  Milano. 

Fares  frOm  London  to  Florence  direct,  £9  5s.  Cd., 
£6  138.  3d.  Omnibus  fares  to  hotels,  1-lJ  1. ;  car- 
riages, 11.;  trunks,  50  c.  ;  valises,  25  c. 

Theatres. — Nassionale;  DeUa  Pergola;  NiccoUni  ; 
Politeama,  fine  summer-theatre. 

Conwalaten,—- American,  Via  Tomabuoni,  No.  10 ; 
British,  Via  Tornabuoni,  No  14. 

Florentia  was  founded  by  the  Romans,  before  Christ ; 
ravaged  by  the  barbarians;  rose  to  great  commercial 
importance  by  1100;  suffered  from  centuries  of  civil 
conflicts  and  foreign  wars ;  ruled  by  the  Medici  family, 
J434-1737 ;  by  dukes  of  the  house  of  Lorraine,  1737 
-1860 ;  and  was  canital  of  Italy,  1864-70.  Since  1870 
it  has-  fallen  into  decay  and  financial  embarrassment, 
but  is  a  favorite  winter-resort,  by  reason  of  its  vast 
art-treasures,  natural  beauty,  and  cheapness  of  living. 
It  stands  on  a  narrow  plain,  partly  surrounded  by 
the  Apennines  and  their  foot-hills,  and  cut  in  two 
by  the  river  Anio,  which  is  nearly  dry  in  summer. 
There  are  180,000  inhab. 


330      PALAZZO  VECCHIO.  —  UFFIZI  GALLERY. 

The  Piazza  della  Signoria,  the  central  square, 
forum  of  the  B/epablic,  and  present  business-centre,  is 
adorned  bj  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Cosmo,  marble 
lion,  and  Neptune  fountain,  erected  in  1564r-76,  on 
site  of  Savonarola's  martyrdom.  Here  fronts  the 
Palazzo  Vecchio  (built  1298),  once  capitol  of  Re- " 
public  and  palace  of  Cosmo  I.,  aud  now  town-hall,  —  a 
tall,  massive,  and  formidable  fortress-palace.  Enter  (by 
Bandinelli's  statues  of  Hercules  and  Cacus)  the  court- 
yard, with  Michelozzi's  dainty  arabesques,  Vasari's 
lountain,  Verocchio's  statue  of  a  boy.  The  Hall  of  the 
Great  Council  was  built  in  1495,  at  Savonarola's  order. 
Italian  Parliament  sat  here,  1865-70.  Vasari  and  oth- 
ers made  many  of  the  frescos ;  and  two  very  famous 
cartoons  were  drawn  by  Leonardo  and  Angelo,  for  this 
hall.  See  Hall  of  the  Two  Hundred,  used  by  town- 
council  ;  Hall  of  the  Lilies,  with  rich  marble  work ;  aud 
Medici  apartments.  Campanile  built  by  Amolfo  del 
Cambio,  308  ft.  high  (450  steps),  gives  a  grand  view. 
Its  bell  was  the  rallying-sound  in  the  civfl  wars.  In 
front  is  the  Loggia  dei  Lanzi,  a  very  graceful  arcade 
built  in  1376  for  Cosmo's  guards  of  lancers ;  later,  a 
tribune  whence  the  people  were  harangued ;  and  now 
containing  celebrated  statues,  —  Benvenuto  Cellini's 
"Perseus,"  Donatello's  "Judith,"  Giovanni  da  Bo- 
logna's "  Hercules,"  etc.  Alongside  Palazzo  Vecchio, 
see  Palazzo  Uguccione,  planned  by  Raphael ;  opposite 
which  is  new  Palazzo  Fenzi,  in  Early  Florentine  style. 
Between  Vecchio  and  Loggia,  enter  Portico  degli  Uffizi, 
built  by  Vasari,  1660-74,  with  marble  statues  of  24 
famous  Tuscans.  On  r.,  entrances  to  Mint,  now 
Fa$t-Offlee;  on  1.,  to  the  world -renowned 

Uffizi  Oallery  (open  9-^,  Mon.  12-8, 1 1.  ;  festivals, 
10-8.  free ;  catalogues,  8i  1.),  the  vast  art-collections 
made  by  the  Medici  and  Lorraine  dynasties.  See  ^iobe 


FLORENCE.  S31 

Hall,  aniiquetstatues  of  Niobe  and  her  children;  ball 
of  portraits  of  painters,  made  by  themselves ;  Triimna, 
witn  Venus  de  Medici,  Wrestlers,  Apollino,  and  many 
celebrated  paintings ;  cabinets  of  gems,  cameos,  bronzes, 
and  vases ;  vast  collections  of  Flemish,  Grermaa,  I>atch> 
and  Venetian  pictures ;  and  masterpieces  of  Baphael, 
Titian,  Correggio,  etc.  The  National  JAhrary.  (open 
9-5)  has  300,000  vols.,  8,000  MSS.,  rare  books,  and 
the  great  Tuscan  archives. 

The  grand  and  massive  Pitti  Palace,  S.  of  the  Arno,. 
was  begun  in  1440,  on  Brunelleschi's  plans,  for  the 
merchant  Pitti,  whose  heirs  sold  it  in  1559  to  the  Medici, 
who  made  it  their  home,  and  had  Yasari  join  it  to  the 
Palazzo  Vecchio  by  a  corador  1,800  ft.  long  (now  filled 
with  rare  drawings  by  Italian  masters).  The  Pitti  is 
occasionally  occupied  by  the  king.  Its  front  (121  ft, 
high)  is  of  enormous  blocks  of  stone,  20-25  ft.  long. 
On  the  second  floor  is  a  gallery  (open  9-3,  Mon.  12-3, 
in  of  500  fine  old  pictures,  in  13  magnificent  saloons* 
ricniy  frescoed,  and  adorned  with  tables  and  cabinets 
of  marble,  alabaster,  malachite,  and  mosaic.  Here 
are  some  of  the  best  works  of  Raphael,  Titian,  etc 
The  Boboli  Garden  (o]^n  Thurs.  and  Sun.,  12-6), 
back  of  the  palace,  was  hud  out  in  1500,  and  its  hUU 
terraces  command  noble  views  of  Florence  (especially 
from  Belvedere),  8ee  amphitheatre,  grotto,  obelisk, 
Neptune's  statue  (by  Giovanni  da  Bologna),  etc.  Near 
the  Pitti  is  the  extensive  and  valuable  Museum  of 
PhysicM,  with  GaliWs  first  telescopes,  and  one  of  his 
fingers ;  also  rare  botanical  collections. 

The  Academy  of  Fine  Arte  (open  9^,  1 1. ; 
Suns,  and  festivtJs  free)  contains  scnools  of  design, 
painting,  architecture,  music,  mechanism,  diemistry, 
etc.,  and  a  noble  collection  of  old  religious  pictures 
showing  the  development  of  Tuscan  art.    Th«  lower 


332     NATIONAL  MUSEUM. —CATHEDRAL. 

baOs  contain  modem  paintiDgs.  The  court  is  decorated 
with  reliefs  bj  Luca  della  Robbia.  In  second  court  is 
Michael  Angelo's  celebrated  statue  of  David.  Floren- 
tine Mosaic-factory  in  same  buiidins  (museum  open 
daily).  Close  by,  in  cloisters  of  the  Seatzo,  One  frescos 
by  Andrea  del  Sarto ;  also  Medicean  Casino,  built  1570. 
In  saa^e  square  is  Ch.  of  S.  Marco  (1290),  with  many 

Sictures  and  statues,  and  tombs  of  Politian  and  Pico 
ella  Mirandola.  Next  door  is  the  famous  old  Domini- 
ean  Monastery  o/S.  Mareo,  now  occupied  by  a  museum 
(open  10-4, 1 1. ;  free  Sun. ;  guide-book,  1^1.)  of  choice 
works  of  old  masters,  great  number  of  frescos  by  Fra 
Angelioo,  etc.,  in  cloisters,  cells,  and  refectory.  See 
cell  of  Savonarola.  Fra  Angelico,  Fra  Bartolommeo, 
8t.  Antoninus,  ar  Politian  were  monks  here.  The 
Mcademia  della  OtuAcay  founded  in  1582  to  preserve 
the  purity  of  tlie  Italian  language,  is  establishea  here. 

Tne  National  Mu«eiim  (open  10-4, 1 1. ;  Sun.  free) 
has  a  hall  of  mediaeval  bronzes,  with  Giovanni  da 
Bologna's  celebrated  "Mercury,"  Donatello's  "David," 
etc. ;  the  great  fresco  of  "  The  Last  Supper,"  attributed 
to  Eaphael;  a  collection  of  weapons;  statuary  by 
Aneelo,  Bandinelli,  etc. ;  ancient  furniture ;  faience ; 
eeleorated  frescos  by  Giotto,  in  old  chapel;  rich  terra- 
cottas; stained  glass,  etc.  It  is  in  the  Palazzo  del 
Fodesta,  or  n  Bargello,  built  125^  for  the  Florentine 
chief  maeistrate ;  fortified  1317 ;  and  often  assailed  by 
the  popumce.  The  curfew  was  sounded  from  the  cam- 
panile. The  prisons  and  tortn  re-rooms  were  here.  See 
picturesque  court. 

The  Cathedral  of  8ta.  Maria  del  Fiore  (so  called 
from  the  lily  in  the  arms  of  Florence]|,  one  of  tlie  grand- 
est  Gothic  chs.  of  Europe,  was  built  1294-1474,  by 
Amolfo,  Giotto,  Gaddi,  and  Orcagna,  on  site  of  older 
ch.  of  8.  Reparaia,  and  is  556^  ft  long,  and  342  ft. 


FLORENCE.  333 

wide  (at  transepts),  with  walls  of  beautiful  wbite  and 
colored  marbles.  The  nave  is  154  ft.  high.  Beautiful 
porch  on  Via  Bicasoli,  with  pillars  resting  on  backs  of 
lions;  and  over  the  door  statues  by  Douatello  and 
Jacopo  della  Querela.  The  interior  is  impressive,  but 
simple,  with  huge  pillars  flanking  the  lofty  nave,  rich 
marole-mosaic  pavement,  and  signed  windows.  See 
Jacopo  della  Quercia's  "Madonna,"  Uccello's  frescos, 
Gadai's  mosaics,  Angelo's  "Entombment;"  bronze 
doors,  by  Luca  della  Robbia;  statues,  portraits,  and 
tombs  of  many  celebrated  Florentines.  It  is  a  perfect 
treasure-house  of  art  The  stained  glass  was  designed 
by  Ghiberti  and  Donatello,  and  made  at  Lubeck.  The 
bop^e,  352  ft.  high,  made  by  Brunelleschi  (1421^6)  is 
higher  than  that  of  St.  Peter's,  and  mav  be  ascended 
(463  steps ;  57  more  to  the  Cross ;  fee,  11.).  Interest- 
ing details,  and  grand  view.  King  Victor  Emmanuel 
laid  foundations  of  new  main  facade  in  1860.  In  this 
ch.  Giuliano  de'  Medici  fell  under  the  daggers  of  the 
Pazzi ;  the  Greek  Emperor  offered  to  become  Catholic ; 
and  Frederick  II.  of  Germany  knighted  many  of  his 
fierce  captains.  See  silver  altar  and  sculptures,  in 
Opera  del  Duomo. 

The  Italian-Gothic  Campanile,  the  most  marvellous 
bell-tower  in  the  world,  is  Giotto's  noblest  work 
rt334-36).  It  is  292  ft.  high,  in  4  stories,  of  which 
the  uppermost  is  superbly  decorated,  with  delicate 
tracery  aroun4  windows,  and  many  statues  and  reliefs 
by  Giotto,  Donatello,  and  other  masters.  The  tower  is 
built  of  variegated  marbles.  Fee  to  ascend,  1 L  Noble 
view  of  Florence  and  Apennines  (414  steps).  Along* 
side  is  the  famous  oh.  of  the  MMericordia,  whose 
cowled  brethren  are  often  seen  upon  the  streets^  and 
opposite  is  the  Canoniy,  with  statues  of  Amolfo  and 
Brunelleschi.  See  Sasso  di  Dante,  near  by,  a  atone  oa 
which  Dante  used  to  sit 


334  BAPTISTERY. 

The  Baptistery  of  S.  Oiovanni  (6tli  century;,  oppo- 
site the  Cathedral j  is  an  octagonal  marble  ch.,  94  ft.  in 
diameter,  with  dome.  Uum  1128  it  -was  used  as  a 
cathedral.  Here  are  Gbiberti's  celebrated  bronze 
doors  (1408-62),  with  10  Old-Testament  scenes,  and 
28  from  life  of  Christ  and  early  Church  history. 
Michael  An^elo  declared  these  worthy  to  be  the  gates 
of  Paradise  (see  also  George  Eliot's  Romola).  At 
the  sides  are  two  porphyry  columns,  given  by  Pisa  in 
1200.  Bronze  door  on  S.,  scenes  from  lire  of  St. 
John,  made  by  Andrea  Pwano  (1408-30).  Inside  arc 
many  statues,  dim  old  mosaics.  Oriental-granite  col- 
umns, and  tomb  of  Pope  John  XXIII.  SS.  Annun^ 
ziata  (1250)  contains  Andrea  del  Sarto's  best  works, 
sumptuous  chapels,  and  cloisters.  8*  Oroce,  buDt 
(1294-1442)  hj  Amolfo  and  Vasari,  is  an  imposing 
cruciform  basilica,  with  modem  fapade  of  black  and 
white  marbles  (1863),  high  tower,  and  rich  cloisters  and 
refectory  (many  paintings).  In  this  vast  old  Floren* 
tine  Pantheon  are  the  tombs  of  Galileo,  Michael  Angelo, 
Macchiavelli,  Baphael  Morghen,  Lanzi,  Cherubini, 
Ugo  Poscolo,  and  other  great  men ;  and  monuments  to 
Dante  and  Alfieri.  Rare  treasures  of  art,  including 
many  frescos  by  Giotto.  In  front,  see  noble  modem 
statue  of  Dante.  S,  Lorenzo,  consecrated  by  St. 
Ambrose  in  393,  and  rebuilt  by  the  Medici  in  1425, 
from  Brunelleschi's  and  Michael  Angelo's  plans,  is  a 
sumptuous  Romanesque  ch.,  resting  on  14  tall  Corinth- 
ian columns,  and  containing  tomb  of  Cosmo,  "Father  of 
his  People ; "  and  sculptures  by  Donatelio,  BmneHeschi, 
Michael  Angelo,  and  Thorwaldsen.  In  new  Sacristy 
are  Aneelo's  Twilight,  Dawn,  Day,  and  Night,  over 
the  tombs  of  the  Medici.  The  Chapel  of  tlie  Princes 
(1604),  erected  by  the  Medici  at  a  cost  of  $4,400,000, 
for  their  sepulchres,  is  a  dome-covered  octagon,  lined 


FLORENCE.  335 

with  precioas  marbles,  mosaics,  and  frescos.  Adjacent, 
see  Laurentian  Library  (open  9-3;  i-ll.)>  founded 
1444  by  Cosmo,  in  building  planned  by  Michael 
Angelo.  Priceless  old  vols,  and  8,000  MSS.,  many  ot 
them  rare,  by  Dante,  Alfieri,  Petrarch,  Boccaccio,  and 
of  Virgil,  ^schylus,  etc. 

S.  Maria  Novella  (1278-1371)  is  a  beautiful  ch. 
of  black  and  white  marbles,  with  arcades,  and  attractiye 
interior,  on  slender  pillars.  See  Ghirlandajo's  famous 
frescos,  in  choir;  Brunelleschi's  crucifix,  in  Gondi 
Chapel ;  Cimabue's  Madonna,  borne  in  triumph  by  the 
Florentines  from  the  studio  to  the  ch. ;  Orcagna's 
frescos,  in  Strozzi  Chapel,  and  in  Green  Cloister ;  vast 
Giottesque  frescos,  in  Spanish  Chapel;  and  Great 
Cloisters,  the  largest  in  Florence.  See,  also,  in  S, 
Maria  Maddalenay  fresco  by  Perugino;  La  Badia, 
with  ancient  tombs  and  tall  tower ;  Or  San  Michele, 
built  in  1284  by  Arnolfo  for  a  corn-hall,  and  made  a 
Gothic  ch.  in  1337-55,  with  many  statues  by  the  great 
masters,  and  altar  by  Orcagna  (1359) ;  S.  Trinita 
(1250) ;  Carmine  (1422),  with  cloisters,  and  Miasaocio's 
famous  frescos  (studied  by  Perugino,  Eaphael,  An- 
gelo, and  Leonardo).  See,  also,  Marucellian  library, 
70,000  vols. ;  Riccardian  library,  containing  oldest 
MS.  iu  existence  (Pliny) ;  houses  of  Benvenuto  Cel- 
lini, Dante,  Ghiberti,  Bianca  Capello,  Amerigo  Ves- 
pucci, GaUleo,  Macchiavelli,  Guicciardini,  Andrea  del 
Sarto;  the  great  hospitals,  decorated  by  the  masters 
(especially  Foundling  Hospital,  S.  Maria  Nuova) ;  busy 
Mercato  Nuovo;  and  interesting  great  Egyptian  and 
Etruscan  Museum  (open  9-3  ;  1 1.),  in  refectory  of  old 
Convent  of  S,  Onofrio,  vases,  reliefs,  implements^  etc., 
and  fresco  (1505)  of  "Last  Supper;"  and  house  of 
Michael  Angelo  (Mon.  and  Thurs.,.9-3),  with  great 
museum  of  works  and  relics  of  Angelo. 

There  are  scores  of  huge  old  palaces,  mainly  b; 


336  LUNG'  ARNO. 

illustrious  architects.  Among  tbem^  see  Ridolfi  fRu* 
oellai),  which  was  sacked  by  the  people  in  1527 ;  Mtoviti, 
with  marble  portraits  of  famous  xlorentines ;  CorHtU, 
very  elesant,  with  large  picture-gallery  (open  Tues., 
Fri.,  ana  Sat.) ;  Strozzi,  3  vast  fa^des,  a  very  perfect 
and  imposmg  palace,  with  picture-gallery  (open) ;  .ftur- 
cardi  (1434),  original  and  stately  home  of  the  Medici 
(see  chapel  and  courts) ;  Fontebttoni,  where  Alfieri 
died ;  Spini,  now  municipal  offices ;  ManeUi  (1565) ; 
Panciaiiehi,  with  picture-gallery ;  and  Torri^iano,  wilh 
lanre  gallery  (open  daily)  and  ramous  gardens. 

The  Amo  is  bordered  by  the  handsome  old  quays  oi 
the  Icimg'  Amo,  on  both  sides,  and  crossed  by  the 
picturesque  Fonte  Vecchio  (1 362),  covered  with  shops ; 
el^nt  Fonte  S.  Trinita,  built  1252 ;  Foute  alia  Car^ 
raja  (1218),  often  restored ;  Fonte  alle  Grazie  (1235) ; 
and  2  suspension-bridges.  The  Fia  dei  Cahajuoli,  from 
cathedral  to  Uffizi,  and  Fia  Tomabuoni  are  the  busiest 
streets.  There  are  many  picturesque  squares,  adorned 
with  statues  and  fountains. 

Bxoiirsloiui.  —  The  Cascine,  a  narrow  park  extend- 
ing 2  M.  along  the  Arno,  iust  W.  of  Florence,  has 
favorite  rambles  and  drives  (military  music,  zoological 
garden,  etc.).  —  Along  the  Fiale  dei  Colle  to  Piaxsa 
Iffiohael  Angelo,  a  beautiful  esplanade  (dedicated 
1875),  with  monument  and  bronze  copies  of  Angelo's 
works. — S.  BOniato  is  a  beautiful  ch.  on  far- viewing 
hill  on  E.,  in  Pisan-Florentine  architecture  (1013),  with 
rich  fa9ade,  mosaics,  14  great  marble  columns,  open 
roof,  notable  crypt,  niello  mosaic  pavement  (1207),  and 
finely  frescoed  sacristy.  Charmmg  view  of  Florence. 
—  Beilo  Sgoardo,  just  S.  W.  of  Florence,  commands 
a  famous  view  over  city  and  mts.  —  The  Poggio  Im- 
periale,  once  a  ducal  villa,  now  a  nuns'  school,  is  out. 
'^e  and  above  the  Forta  Romana^  reached  by  fine 
ttue  of  trees.     Near  by  is  the  tower  whicn  was 


FIESOLE.  —  VALLOMBROSA.  337 

Galileo's  observatory;  also,  villa  where  he  livedo 
1631-42,  and  was  visited  by  Milton.  In  adjacent 
vilk,  Guicciardini  wrote  the  history  of  Italy.  —  Za 
Certosa,  3  M.  from  Porta  Komana,  is  a  vast  and 
fortress-like  Carthusian  monastery,  built  1341,  from. 
Orcagna's  plans.  Fine  paintings,  monuments,  etc.,  ia 
ch.,  cloisters,  and  chapter-house  (1 L).  —  Monte  OIU 
veto,  1  M.  from  Porta  S,  Frediano,  is  a  monastery 
(1334),  whence  grand  views. — Villa  San  Donato 
(DemidofF),  open  Mon.  and  Fri.  (5  1.).  — Villa  Ca- 
reg£;i,  2-3  M.  N.,  once  seat  of  Medici  and  Platonic 
Academy.  Cosmo  and  Lorenzo  died  here.  —  Poggio 
a  Cajano,  royal  villa,  12  M.  N.  W. ;  and  Villa  aella 
Petraiay  anotber  royal  residence.  —  Pratolino,  former 
forest-palace  of  Meaici. 

Fieeole,  3  M.  N.  of  Florence,  beyond  convent  where 
Fra  Angelico  dwelt,  was  an  Etruscan  city,  and  retains, 
parts  ot  vast  walls.  See  also  Cathedral  (1028),  and 
old  palaces  adjacent;  Franciscan  convent,  on  site  of 
Acropolis ;  ancient  theatre  (50  c.) ;  splendid  abbey ; 
and  fascinating  views  of  Val  d'  Arno. 

Vallombrosa,  18  M.  distant,  among  the  Apennines, 
may  be  visited  in  a  day.  Vast  abbey,  founded  1050, 
now  a  school  of  forestry.  1  hr.'s  climb  hence  to  top  of 
Prafomagno,  5,323  ft.  high,  with  noble  view  to  Medi* 
terranean.  Excursion  also  to  very  picturesque  Casm* 
tim  region,  and  grand  old  abbeys  of  Camaldoli  and 
Jlvemia. 

Arezzo,  Orvieto,  Perugia,  Foligno,  Siena, 

From  Florence  we  would  recommend  yon  to  go  to  Rome  bf 
the  shortest  route,  through  Arezzo,  Orneto,  and  Orte  (195^ 
M. ;  fares,  33 1.  85  c,  23 1.  30  c,  16i  1. ;  by  express-traina^ 
38 1.  5  c,  26 1  40  c).  Fares  by  express  from  Florence  to 
Arezzo,  U\  M.,  10 1. 10  c,  7 1  5  c. 
22 


338  AREZZO.  —  PERUGIA. 

Beautiful  mt.  scenery  on  the  long  as,cent  to 

Arexxo(Vittoria;  La  Stella;  IngMlterra),2i,xx  ancient 
^Etruscan  city  which  became  an  ally  of  Eome,  B.C.  310. 
Here  Maecenas,  Vasari,  Peti-arch,  and  other  famous  men 
were  bom.  It  now  has  38,000  inhab.  See  Italian- 
Gothic  Cathedral  (1177),  with  many  pictures,  tombs, 
■etc.  S.  Maria  della  Fieve,  remarkable  fapade ;  S.  Ffan^ 
cescOy  interesting  frescos ;  Museum,  majolicas,  bronzes, 
antiques;  Ahhey  of  S.  Flora;  old  palaces,  chs.,  and 
statues.  Cortona  {Stella),  another  Etruscan  town, 
has  great  Cathedraly  Museum,  vast  Etruscan  walls, 
and  fortress  (superb  view).  The  rly.  runs  near  Lake 
Thrasymene  and  the  lovely  Val  di  Chiana.  Orvieto 
ifielle  Arti  ;  Aquila  Bianca :  omnibus  from  stat.,  11.) 
stands  on  a  lofty  volcanic  rock ;  and  has  a  magnificent 
Cathedral  (1290-1600)  of  black  and  white  marble,  with 
nave  111  ft.  high,  crowded  with  mosaics,  carvings, 
shrines,  and  frescos  by  Luca  Signorelli  and  Era  An- 
gelico.  The  route  hence  ta  Rome  leads  by  Monte 
Itotottdo  and  Mentana,  where  Garibaldi  was  defeated  ii^ 
1867. 

A  longer  rly.  route  to  Rome  leads  from  Cortoni^ 
along  Lake  Thrasymene  (30  X  8  M.  in  area;  near  by, 
Hannibal  annihilated  the  Roman  army,  B.c.  217),  to 

Perugia  XOrarvS.  H6td;  Grande  Bretagrie ;  Belle 
Arti),  once  Etruscan,  now  capital  of  Umbria  (19,000 
inhab.),  with  103  chs.  and  50  monasteries.  See  great 
15th-century  Cathedral ;  S.  Fietro  de'  Casinense,  18 
antique  columns,  choir-stalls  designed  by  Raphael ;  S. 
iSevero,  with  Raphaers  first  fresco ;  S.  Domenico,  tomb 
of  Pope  BenecUct  XI. ;  University  (50  c),  founded 
1320,  wilii  large  gallery  of  Umbrian  pictures,  antiqui. 
ties,  etc.;  Arch  of  Augustus,  an  ancient  city-gate; 
Perugino's  house ;  Etruscan  cemetery ;  and  collections 
«n  several  palaces.     Superb  views  over  Tiber  valley  and 


SIENA.  339 

Apennines.  Aaaisi,  perched  on  a  b^h  hill,  was  the 
birthplace  of  St.  Francis,  and  has  vast  fnuiciscanlnon- 
astery  (fee  to  monk,  1 1.),  and  its  wonderful  Gothic 
double  ch.,  with  frescos  by  Giotto  and  Cimabne,  and 
other  treasures.  FoUgno  (23,000  inhab.)  has  6  inter- 
esting chs.  Within  50  years  it  has  suffered  4  severe 
earthquakes.  The  rly.  thence  to  Borne  passes  Trevi^ 
Spolete^  and  TenU  (beautiful  falls  here). 

A  still  longer  route  is  from  Florence  to  Siena  (59  M. ; 
fares,  10185  c.,  1\\.,  51.30c.),  passing  Certaldo, 
where  Boccaccio  died ;  and  Pc^^»dojw}  (whence  carna^^ 
to  San  GinUgmmOy  with  enormous  walls,  interesting 
chs.,  and  many  works  of  art. 

Siena  (£0^2  de  SUnne;  R  Sano),  a  city  of  23,000 
^once  200,000)  inhab.,  celebrated  for  ancient  school  of 
aevotional  art,  for  pretty  women,  healthy  climate,  and 

Surity  of  language.  Sieges  and  wars  innumerable  have 
istressed  it.  See  vast  and  superb  13th-century  Cathe- 
dral, of  red,  white,  and  black  marbles,  abounding  in 
sculptures  and  paintings,  rose  windows,  choir-stalls, 
etc. ;  Library  (1495),  frescos  by  Pinturicchio  and  Ra- 

Ehael ;  notable  Campanile,  Baptistery^  and  Pellegrinajo 
ospital ;  S.  Domenico,  S.  Francesco,  S.  Bernardino,  and 
other  chs. ;  Oratory  of  St.  Catheiine  of  Siena ;  Institute 
of  Fine  Arts  (open  9-^),  with  valuable  Sienese  pictures, 
including  Sodoma's  "  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  *'  Pa- 
lazzo PMico  (1293-1309),  with  many  statelv  and  richly 
furnished  halls ;  Campanile,  which  Leonardo  da  Yinci 
admired ;  handsome  Palazzo  del  Gonerno  (1469),  with 
30,000  parchments,  some  dating  from  814 ;  Loggia  di 
S.  Paolo  (1417) ;  other  palaces  of  noble  period  ofarchi. 
lecture ;  the  Fonte  Oaja  and  Fonte  Branda  ;  La  Lizza, 
the  promenade;  the  University.  Excursions  to  LOs-* 
seroanza  monastery  and  Belcaro  castle. 


340  ROME. 


Borne. 


Bptols.— JM  Qtiirinale  ;  De  V Europe  ;  J>e  Lon- 
dres;  Grain4;  Ik  Ruu%^;jyA7^leterre:JHIioma: 
Briitoi;  Mc^roiAnghh Americano;  New  York;  IfAl- 
lenuwne;  Dela  ViUe  ;  CantinerOal ;  De  Paris/  H6td 
du  md;  Milan/  Centrale;  Italia.  The  first  9  are  lirst- 
dafis.    The  others  are  very  good  but  less  ezpensiTe. 

Pemilts  to  visit  Vatican  and  many  Tillu  and  paiaces 
ibtaiued  from  botd-proprietor  or  guide,  or  from  appointed 
>Bcial8.  G«t  Baeddcer's  Central  Haly,  compact  and  prac- 
tical, with  good  maps.  Mnmy'a  Rome  ia  werj  good  reading, 
but  bulky.  Hachette's  Some  et  tee  Mnvirom  is  good.  RIy ., 
Paris  to  Rome,  42  hrs.  (fares,  212  it.,  179  fir.  60  c). 

Old  travellefa  advise  that  mornings  at  Rome  be  given  to 
the  cha.  and  palaces,  and  afternoons  to  the  classic  ruiua  and 
fragments  of  the  Imperial  city. 

A  visit  to  Rome  is  the  most  interesting  experience  in  the 
course  of  a  European  todr.  No  adequate  idea  of  the  city  can 
be  gained  in  less  than  10-12  days.  If  the  traveller  can  give 
it  bat  7-8  days,  he  should  devote  the  time  equally  between 
the  classic  remains  and  the  great  chs.  and  modem  institu- 
tions.    American  Ch.  of  St.  Paul,  on  Via  Nazionale. 

Tradition  ascribes  the  founding  of  Rome  to  Ramnlua  and 
Remus,  B.C.  758.  It  is  probably  much  older.  King  Tunquin 
was  expelled,  B.C.  509 ;  the  republic  lasted  480  years,  con- 
qaering  the  Etruscans,  Samnites,  Gauls,  Lncanians,  etc.  b.c. 
390  the  Gauls  took  Rome.  Then  came  wars  with  Carthage 
(b.c.  264--241,  219-202,  and  149-146) ;  conquest  of  Cor- 
sica  (288),  Sicily  (241),  Spain  (b.c.  197-178),  Greece 
(B.C.  214-205,  200-197,  172-168,  and  146).  Pergamus 
(129),  Provoice  (118),  and  Gaul  (58-50).  B.C.  29,  Augustus 
OGBsar  became  emperor.  47  legions  garrisoned  the  vast  em- 
pire. Constantine  (324-837  /o.)  made  Christianity  tlie 
State  religion,  but  removed  the  capital  of  the  empire  to  Con- 
stantinople.    Rome  was  sacked  by  Alaric  in  410,  then  by 


ROME.  341 

Senseiic,  and  finally  by  Odoacer  (476),  who  annihilated  the 
Roman  empire.  In  546  and  549  the  Goth  Totila  took  the 
city.  Leo  the  Great  (440-461)  and  Gregory  the  Great  (590^ 
604)  founded  the  papal  power,  which  was  solidified  by  Pepin 
(756)  and  Charlemagne  (800). 

Rome,  "the  Eternal  City,"  the  caj»tal  of  Italy 
(400,000  inhab.),  is  on  the  river  Tiber,  15^  M.  from 
its  mouth,  and  near  the  centre  of  tlie  broad  and  desolate 
Campagna.  The  Tiber  runs  for  3  M.  through  Borne,, 
with  the  low  Yatican  and  Janiculan  Hills  on  the  r.,  and 
on  the«l.  the  circle  of  the  Fincian,  Quirinai,  Yiminal, 
Esquiline,  Gselian,  and  Aventine  Hills,  surrounding  the 
Palatine  and  Capitoline  Hills  (the  last  7  are  the 
famous  "Seven  Hills").  The  space  within  the  walk 
is  about  the  same  as  in  Aurelian's  time,  but  ^  of  it  is 
ill  ^rdens  and  ruins.  As  in  the  Aufustau  age,  it  is 
divided  into  14  Rioni,  or  wards.  The  ecclesiastical 
population  is  7,500.  Many  of*  the  streets  are  narrow 
and  unattractive ;  but  the  (3orso,  Via  Babuino,  Bipetta^ 
and  a  few  others  are  filled  with  splendid  shops  and 
animated  crowds.  There  are  7  bridges  over  the  Tiber. 
The  river  often  overflows  its  banks,  and  makes  lakes  of 
the  lower  squares. 

The  walls  of  Bome  are  of  brick,  14  M.  around,  and 
65  ft.  hiffh,  and  about  1600  years  old,  though  restored 
by  Theodoric,  Belisarius,  etc.  There  are  12  gates  now 
open,  and  several  closed.  On  N.  is  Porta  del  Popolo, 
built  in  1561  by  Vignola ;  next  is  Pindana,  eloa^  in 
1808 ;  then  Salara  (closed),  flanked  by  towers,  where 
Alaric  entered  Bome ;  Pia,  built  from  Anglo's  designs 
in  1564,  and  breached  by  Italian  batteries  in  1870 ; 
Nomentana,  closed  since  1564 ;  Tiburtina,  long  ago 
sealed  up;  S.  Lorenzo,  built  by  Honorius,  over  the 
Tivoli  road;  the  rly.  gate;  Porta  Maggtorey  part  of 
Claudian  Aqueduct  (a.d.  52),  made  a  gate  by  Aureliar 


342      AQUEDUCTS.  —  PIAZZA  DEL  POPOLO. 

and  a  fortress  by  the  Colonnas,  and  commanding  the 
Palestrina  road ;  S.  Giovanni,  built  in  1674,  over  Al- 
bano  road;  Asinaria  (now  closed),  where  Belisarius 
inarched  into  Rome ;  Metroma,  closed ;  Latina  (closed 
1808),  over  Via  Latina,  to  Capua ;  8.  Sedastiano,  with 
towers  and  pinnacles,  over  Appian  Way ;  S.  Paolo,  at 
foot  of  Aventine,  over  road  to  Ostia.  On  W.  bank  of 
Tiber,  Porta  Portese,  close  to  river ;  8.  Pancrazio,  on 
Janiculan  Hill,  stormed  by  French  troops  in  1849,  and 
ruined  by  their  artillery;  Cavalleggieri,  close  to  St. 
Peter's,  where  the  army  of  the  Constable  de  ]^ourbon 
entered  in  1527,  and  the  French  were  repulsed  m  1849 ; 
Fabhrica  (closed);  Angelica^  over  route  to  Monte 
Mario ;  and  CasteUo  (closed). 

The  Aqueducts  give  a  noble  idea  of  Koman  archi- 
tecture and  bold  conception,  with  their  vast  arcades 
running  for  leagues  over  the  Campagna.  The  Aqua 
Marcia,  built  B.C.  146  and  restored  in  1869,  brings  the 
purest  of  water  from  the  Sabine  mts.,  56  M.  away. 
The  Aqua  Claudia  (a.d.  50)  leads  from  near  Subiaco, 
58 J  M.  The  Aqua  Trajana  leads  from  Bracciano,  35 
M.  The  Aqua  Virgo,  built  by  Agrippa,  for  his  baths, 
leads  from  a  soring  14  M.  out  on  the  Campagna,  and 
l)reaks  out  in  the  Fountain  of  Trevi.  The  Aqua  Felice 
<built  by  Sixtus  V.,  in  1585)  leads  from  tlie  Alban 
mts.,  21  M.     Rome  is  thus  copiously  supplied. 

The  Piasza  del  Popolo,  the  focus  at  N.  gate  of 
Home  to  which  the  great  streets  Babuino,  Corso,  and 
Bipetta  converge,  is  adorned  with  an  Egyptian  obelisk 
^set  up  here  in  1589),  fountains,  and  statues.  S.  Maria 
del  Popoh  (1099),  on  haunted  burial-place  of  Nero, 
has  many  prelates'  tombs,  rich  paintings,  and  a  beau- 
tiful chapel  by  Raphael.  2  other  high-domed  chs. 
front  on  the  Piazza.  Hence  ascend  drives  to  the  fa- 
vorite Roman  park  and  promenade,  on  the  Pincian  Hill 


ROME.  345 

(once  LxLCullus's  gardens),  with  statues  and  basts,  trees 
and  fonntains,  and  grand  views.  The  FiUa  Medici 
(1540^  is  now  seat  of  French  art-academy  and  collec- 
tions (open  daUy,  except  Sat.).  The  Villa  Borc^ese^ 
outside  Porta  del  Popolo,  is  in  lovely  and  popular  gar- 
dens (open  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat.,  and  Sun.  afternoons), 
with  oal-groves,  lawns,  statues,  Raphael's  villa,  and  a 
casino  witn  20  rooms  devoted  to  sculptures  (including- 
Canova's  Pauline  Bonaparte)  and  paintings.  The 
Villa  Albani  (open  Tues.,  11  till  dark)  is  outside 
Salarian  Gate,  with  hundreds  of  ancient  scmptures,  and 
a  few  paintings,  and  queer  Italian  gardens,  with  ro- 
mantic distant  views. 

The  Piazza  di  Spagna  is  surrounded  by  the  hotels^ 
and  shops  of  the  foreign  quarter,  and  contains  Bernini's 
Barcaccia  fountain;  rius  IX.'s  Column  of  the  Immacu- 
late Conception  (with  5  statues)  ;  the  Palace  of  Spain 
(Spanish  embassy) ;  and  the  Colkpe  of  Propaganda 
Fide  (1662).  The  famous  Spanish  Staircase  ascends 
hence  to  88.  Trinity  da'  Monti  (1495),  a  stately  ck 
with  many  paintings  and  charming  music  (by  nuns). 
Obelisk  on  square  in  front.  Near  by  is  Casa  Bartholdf 
(1 1.),  with  room  richly  frescoed  by  Overbeck,  Gomelius^ 
and  Veit  (story  of  Joseph).  In  S.  Andrea  delta  FaUe, 
Zoega,  Scbadow,  and  Angelica  Kauffman  are  buried. 
Beyond  is  ancient  and  ver^  large  Fountain  of  nrevir 
with  statues  and  great  basin. 

The  Corao  is  over  1  M.  long,  on  site  of  Via  Fla- 
minia,  from  near  Capitol  to  N.  gate  of  Home,  and  is 
the  chief  street,  with  many  shops  and  cafi^,  and  busy 
crowds.  Leaving  Piazza  del  Popolo,  it  passes  Palazza 
Rondantni,  with  unfinished  Pietik  by  Michael  Angelo ; 
Goethe's  house  (No.  20) ;  great  Hospital  of  Inemra* 
*/w  (founded  1338);  Palazzo  Minuzzi ;  8.  C!flrr/b,the 
Lombard  national  ch. ;  Palazzo  Ruspoli  (15  S6) ;   '^ 


344  PALACES  ON  THE  CORSO. 

Lorenzo  %n  Lucina  (in  Piazza  to  r.),  with  tomb  of  N. 
Pousein;  Palazzo  Fiano;  Palazzo  Teodoli;  S.  Sil- 
ceMtm  im  (Japite  (built  757-67),  and  Englith  Ch. 
(1874)  in  side-street;  old  Palace  ofKniqhU  of  Malta; 
Palazzo  Torlonia  ;  and  Palauo  Chigi  (1526),  with  val. 
uable  art-ooUectionB  and  library.  Here  opens  the 
handsome  Plassa  Colonna,  with  the  Column  of  Mar- 
€%9  JmreliuSy  95  ft.  high,  adorned  with  spiral  reliefs  of 
Aurelios's  wars  on  the  Danube.  On  one  side  see 
palace  with  fine  lonio  columns  from  Etruscan  Veii; 
oeyond  which  is  Piazza  di  Monte  Cittorio,  with  Italian 
Parliament  House,  in  palace  built  by  Bernini.  In 
front,  note  obelisk,  brought  by  Augustus  from  Egypt. 
Other  two  sides  of  Piazza  Colonna  are  formed  by  Pa- 
lazzi  Piombino  and  Peraiuoli.  Farther  down  Corso, 
on  little  square,  is  very  handsome  Palasso  Sciarra- 
Colonna,  with  a  fine  picture-gallery.  Farther  on, 
opposite  Palazzo  Simonetti,  see  ch.  of  S,  Marcello. 
(a.d.  499),  with  ancient  paintings  and  Consalyi's 
tomb.  Next  comes  (on  r.)  vast  and  splendid  Palazzo 
Doria  (open  Tues.  and  Fri. ;  \  1.^,  with  large  arcaded 
courtyard,  and  gallery  of  800  pamtings  (catalogues  in 
each  room),  includmg  works  of  K&phael,  Claude, 
Titian,  Poussin,  etc.  Opposite  is  Palazzo  Salviati, 
back  of  which  is  Colonna  Palace.  Beyond  the  Palazzo 
Bonaparte  (hi  which  died  the  mother  of  Napoleon  I.) 
is  the  Piazza  di  Fenezia,  at  end  of  Corso,  on  which 
fronts  the  imposing  castellated  Palazso  di  Venesia 
(1455),  whicn  Pius  IV.  gave  to  Venice  (now  Austrian 
embassy).  Near  by,  see  Palazzo  Torlonia,  famous  for 
its  works  of  art ;  S,  Marco  (a.d.  325 ;  rebuilt  in  833),. 
with  mosaics  and  paintings ;  and  popular  and  gorgeous 
Jesuit  Ch.of  Gtoaa  (1668-77}.  lined  with  costly  marble, 
with  eolumns  of  lapis  lazuli  and  gilded  bronze,  many 
statues,  and  tomb  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola.  Adjacent 
^s  the  former  Jesuit  monastery,  with  Lioyola's  cell,  etc. 


,V' 


ROME.  ^45 

The  Tomb  of  Augustus  {\  1),  where  Augustus,  Mar- 
cellus  (see  Virgil),  and  other  emperors  and  princes 
were  buried,  afterwards  became  a  fortress  of  the 
J:  Colonnas,  and  a  ring  for  bull-fights,  and  is  now  but 
c  partly  preserved,  near  the  Ripetta,  or  harbor  for  barges 
0,  and  steamers.  The  Palasso  Borghesa  (1590)  is  a 
''\  huge. and  splendid  palace,  with  arcaded  courts,  antique 
.-_{{  sculptures,  and  a  very  large  picture-gallery  (Mon., 
,|.  Wea.,  and  Fri.,  10-3;  catalogues  in  each  room),  in 
\',[  which  see  Domenichino's  Sibyl  and  Diana,  Titian's 
1^  Sacred  and  Profane  Love,  KaphaeFs  Entombment, 
^  Madonna,  and  Caesar  Boigia,  and  Ck>rreggio's  Danae. 
^  10  min.  Walk  hence,  by  several  palaces  and  chs.,  leads 
'^i  to  St.  Angelo  Bridge.  The  house  in  which  Raphael 
lived  many  years  is  No.  124,  Via  de*  Coronari. 

The  Qnirinal  Palace  (1574-1605),  on  high  and 
healthy  ground,  was  a  favorite  summer-home  of  the 
popes  until  1870,  since  which  the  King  of  Italy  has 
occupied  it.  Pius  VII.  was  imprisoned  here  in  1809 
by  Napoleon ;  and  here  he  diecl  in  1823.  See  frescos 
in  Sala  Regia  ;  Pauline  Chapel,  a  fac-simile  (in  form) 
of  the  Sistine;  Audience  Hall;  frescos  by  Raphael, 
Overbeck,  etc. ;  and  apartments  of  Napoleon,  Emperor 
Francis  I.,  and  King  Francis  II.  of  Naples.  In  front 
is  Piazza  di  Monte  Cavallo,  with  obelisk,  great  granite 
fountain,  and  two  famous  colossal  marble  groups, 
the  Horse-Tamers,  formerly  in  Baths  of  Constantine.^ 
Near  Quirinal  stands  Consult^  Palace,  now  (Government 
offices;  Palasso  RospigUosi  (1603),  with  casino 
(Wed.  and  Sat. ;  9-3)  nill  of  priceless  pictures,  includ- 
ing Gttido's  Aurora;  8.  Silvestro  ch.,  with  Bomeni- 
chmo's  frescos ;  mediseval  MUizie  and  Conti  towers. 

Beneath  Oh.  of  Cappoocini  tourists  visit  vaults 
containing  4,000  desiccated  bodies  of  Capuchin  monks, 
many  in  robes,  others  used  in  ghas%  decorations.    In 


346  BATHS  OF  DIOCLETIAN. 

rear  of  monastery  is  Villa  Ludovisi,  along  citj-TrsSv 
with  Juno  Ludo¥isi,  Guercino's  Aurora,  etc.,  "in  its 
embowered  casinos.  Across  Piazza  Marberini  (see 
Bernini's  Triton  EountAin)  is  great  and  splendid  Pa* 
laazo  Barberini  (1624),  with  noble  halls,  antique 
sculptures,  librarj  (50,000  vols. ;  open  Thurs.,  9-2), 
and  Pictore-Gallery  (open  daily,  12-5,)  contain- 
ing RaphaeFs  Fomarina,  the  so-called  Guide's  Beatrice 
Cenci,  etc.  In  the  great  hall,  see  Pietro  da  Cortona's 
fresco,  *'  The  Triumph  of  Glory." 

On  Piazza  di  SS.  Apostolic  see  ch.  (555;  restored 
1872)  with  monuments  by  CanoYa ;  Valentino,  Odes- 
calchi,  and  Buffo  Palace^;  and  Palaazo  Colonna 
(1417),  with  splendid  halls  and  gardens,  antiques, 
Gobelms,  and  several  halls  filled  wim  fine  old  pictures 
(open  daily,  11-3 ;  names  of  pictures  on  frames). 

The  Baths  of  Diocletianr  near  rly.-stat.,  were 
once  the  largest  in  Rome,  6,000  ft.  around,  with  3,000 
bathers  daily.  Built  in  4th  century  by  enslaved  Chris- 
tians. One  of  the  great  vaulted  halfs  was  made  into 
Ch.  of  S,  Maria  degli  Angeliy  by  Michael  Angelo 
(1561).  It  is  350  (i.  long  and  96  ft.  high,  with  16 
columns  (40  ft.  high)  of  Oriental  granite,  Houdon's 
statue  of  St.  Bruno,  Domenichino's  wonderful  frescos, 
and  tombs  of  Salvator  Bosa  and  Carlo  Maratta.  Other 
halls  of  the  Baths  are  now  military  storehouses,  etc. ; 
as  also  is  Carthusian  MonoMiery^  one  of  whose  cloisters 
has  100  columns,  and  was  designed  by  Angela  A 
fragment  of  the  WaU  of  Servitts  is  in  the  rly.-stai 

The  Patriarchal  Basilica  of  S.  Maria  Mags^ore  is 
on  the  Esquiline,  between  2  squares,  adorned  with  an 
ancient  obelisk,  and  a  column  46  ft.  high,  witJi  bronze 
statue  of  Madonna.  Pirst  oh.  here  built  by  Pope 
Liberius  (ui  352),  on  ground  indicated  by  minouloua 
fall  of  snow  in  August    Present  nave  (279  X  57  ft.) 


ROME.  347 

built  in  432-40,  with  42  marble  Ionic  columns  (from 
Temple  of  Juno),  and  Sth-century  mosaics  on  archi- 
trave, WjJls,  and  arch.  Impressi?e  facade,  with  5  por- 
tals,  statue  of  Philip  lY.  of  Spain,  and  interesting  old 
mosaics.  See  high  altar,  a  porphyrjr  sarcophagus  con- 
taining St.  Matthew's  remains,  with  canopy  on  4 
porphyry  columns ;  Borghese  Chapel,  with  ate  of  lapi» 
lazuli  and  agate,  and  Madonna  painted  by  St.  Luke  v 
Chapel  (with  10  porphyry  columns)  containing  manger- 
cradle  of  Christ ;  tombs  of  6  popes ;  sumptuous  Six- 
tine  Chapel,  and  others.  The  first  gold  brought  from 
America  was  given  to  the  Pope  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  used  in  decorating  this  ch.  Like  St. 
Peter's,  this  magnificent  temple,  so  rich  in  gems  and 
mosaics,  should  be  visited  several  times. 

Near  by,  see  >S'.  Antonio  Abate,  the  ch.  where  do* 
mestic  animals  are  blessed  on  third  week  in  Jan.; 
Triumphal  Arch  of  Gallienus  (a.d.  262) ;  S.  Eusebio, 
frescoed  by  Raphael  Mengs ;  tower  of  Aqua  Claudia; 
8.  Prassede  (882 ;  restored  in  1450  and  1869),  with 
9th-centurY  mosaics,  column  at  which  Christ  was 
scourged,  bones  of  Sts.  Praxedis  and  Pudentiana,  and 
Chapel  of  Garden  of  Paradise,  with  mosaics  on  gold ;, 
S.  Pudenziana,  on  site  where  St.  Peter  lived,  with 
4th-centttry  mosaics  (3,000  martyrs  are  buried  be- 
neath) ;  S.  Martino  ai  Monti  (500),  a  basilica  with  49 
antique  columns,  and  frescos  by  Poussin ;  and  8. 
Fietro  in  Vinooli  (442),  built  by  Empress  Eudoxia 
to  receive  St.  Peter's  chains,  with  20  antique  Doric 
columns,  fine  bronze  doors»  and  Michael  Angelo's 
famous  statue  of  Moses.' 

The  Pantheon  is  the  best  preserved  of  the  old 
Roman  buildings.  It  was  built  by  Augustus's  son-in- 
law,  Agrippa,  B.C.  27;  burnt  under  Titus  and  Trajan; 
restored  by  Septimus  Severus  and  Caracalla ;  conse» 


548  THE  PANTHEON. 

crated  by  Boniface  IV.,  in  600,  as  Ch.  of  S.  Maria  ad 
Martyres;  deformed  by  its  2  campaiiiles,  by  Bernini; 
stripped  of  its  bronzes  by  Urban  v  III. ;  and  restored 
by  Pins  IX.  Great  excavations  are  now  in  progress, 
revealing  Roman  works  and  buildings.  The  vast 
ronnd  walls  of  brick,  20  ft.  thick,  were  once  covered 
with  marble.  The  portico  (now  below,  but  once 
above,  the  square)  has  16  huge  monolithic  columns  of 
Oriental  erauite,  39  ft.  high,  with  Corinthian  capitals 
of  famed  oeauty.  Statues  of  Augustus  and  Agrippa 
once  stood  here.  The  circular  interior  is  very  impres- 
sive ;  and  is  lighted  from  a  place  28  ft  across  in  tlie 
eentre  of  the  dome,  open  to  the  sky.  This  unrivalled 
dome  is  140  ft.  high  and  140  ft.  across.  It  was 
ascended  by  Charles  V.  in  1536.  The  gilded  bronze 
roof-tiles  were  carried  to  Constantinople  in  655 ;  and 
all  the  other  bronzes  were  used  in  making  cannon  for 
the  Citadel  and  the  canopy  in  St.  Peter's.  The  7 
niches  in  which  statues  of  the  gods  stood  are  now 
occupied  by  altars.  Raphael  is  buried  here,  near  his 
betrothed,  Cardinal  Bibiena's  niece.  Here  also  rest 
Peruzzi,  Giovanni  da  Udine,  Annibale  Caracci,  and 
Perino  della  Vaga;  and  here  is  the  tomb  of  King 
Victor  Emmanuel  of  Italy. 

The  Gothic  8.  Blaria  sopra  Minenra,  back  of  Pan- 
theon, was  built  in  1285  on  site  of  Temple  of  Minerva, 
and  contains  tombs  of  Bembo,  Fra  Angelico,  Urban 
VII.,  Paul  IV.,  Leo  X.,  and  Clement  VII  ;  Michael 
Angelo's  Christ,  and  many  choice  works  of  art.  Adja- 
cent Government  building  was  headquarters  of  Do- 
minican Order,  in  which  Galileo  retracted  his  statement 
about  the  earth's  motion.  Great  library  here,  120,000 
vols,  and  4,500  MS8.  Close  by^,  see  S.  Ignazio  (1626), 
and  GoUegio  Romano,  in  which  is  famous  Kiroherlan 
Museum  of  archaeology  (9-3  daily ;  1 1.). 


BOME.  349 

8.  Andrea  deUa  VaUe  (1591)  bas  tombs  of  Pius  11. 
and  III.,  and  Domenichino's  celebrated  EyangeHsts. 
Near  by,  see  Palazzo  Fidoni,  designed  by  Raphael; 
Palazzo  Massimi  alle  Colonne  (1536),  with  statue  of 
Disctts-thrower ;  great  Palazzo  Brascki;  Pasqmno 
statue;  ruins  of  Pompey's  Theatre;  Chiesa  Nnova 
(1605),  with  paintings  bj  Rubens,  monastery,  and  great 
library;  Palazzo  deUa  CanceUeria,  very  elegant,  de- 
signed by  Bramante ;  hnsjPiof^za  di  Campo  deiFiori  ; 
vast  Palasso  Famase  (Vri.,  10-2),  built  by  Sai^^o 
and  Michael  Angelo  in  1534-45,  now  belonging  to  the 
French  Qovemment.  and  splendidly  frescoed  by  Anni- 
baleOaraoci  (Triumphs  of  Ariadne  and  Bacchus);  Pa- 
kuao  SpadaaUaBegola  (1540),  with  great  collections  of 
antique  sculptures  and  paintings  (Mon.,  Wed.,  Sat., 
9-3) ;  and  many  other  famous  chs.  and  palaces. 

The  greai  Fiassa  Navona  has  3  interesting  foun- 
tains, and  is  bounded  by  the  Lancelloti,  Omani,  Braschi, 
and  Pamfili  Palaces ;  S.  Maria  deW  Anima  (1514),  Ger- 
man  national  ch.,  with  mausoleum  of  Adrian  YI. ;  and 
the  Spanish  national  ch.  Near  it  is  S.  Maria  deUa  Pace 
(1484),  containing  Raphael's  Sibyls  (1514).  Fine 
cloister  (1501)  adjacent.  8.  Agoatiho  (1483;  re- 
stored in  1860)  has  tomb  of  Monica,  Augustine's 
mother,  and  RaphaeFs  famous  Prophet  Isaiah  (1512). 
Adjacent  is  old  monastery.  In  Piazza  S.  Apollinare, 
see  ch.  (1552)  with  Pemgino's  Madonna,  Seminario 
Romatto  school,  and  handsome  Palazzo  Allemp».  8. 
Laigl  de'  Francesi  (1589),  on  square  with  Patrizi, 
Madama,  and  Giustiniani  Pakces,  has  many  notable 
paintines.  Near  by  is  University  of  the  Saplensa, 
founded  1303,  and  now  having  4  faculties  and  a  library 
(Alessandrina)  of  90,000  vols.  S.  of  the  Gesu,  see  many 
palaces  and  cbs. ;  the  Tortoise  (TartaruffAe)  Fountain 
(1585) ;  Palazzo  Costaguti  (1590),  with  Albano's  and 


350  CASTLE  OP  ST.  ANGELO. 

Guercino*8  frescoes ;  Palaseo  Mattei  (1610),  with  maoy 
statues  in  court ;  FcUazzo  Cenci,  where  Beatrice  Oenci 
lived;  the  Ghetto,  pulled  down  in  1887,  once  the 
quarter  pf  the  Jews  ;  Colonnade  of  Oetaua,  built  by 
Aygustus  in  honor  of  his  sister ;  Theatre  of  Marcelltis 
(b.  c.  13),  12  hugh  arches  only  remaining  ;  and  palaces 
of  the  Orsini  and  Savelli. 

From  the  Bridge  of  St.  Angelo  to  the  Vatican. --'T\i^ 
5-arched  Ponte  S.  Angelo  was  built  by  Hadrian 
(a.  d.  136)  and  named  P&ns  JElius.  10  colossal  angel- 
statues  by  Bernini  (1688)  adorn  its  parapets.  At  the 
end  rises  vast  round  Castle  S.  Angelo  (fee.l  ].),  built 
by  Hadrian  for  a  mausoleum  (with  colossal  statue  on 
summit),  where  the  Antonines  and  other  emperors  and 
their  families  were  buried.  Later,  it  was  a  fortress; 
which  repelled  dreadful  sieges,  as  when  the  Greeks  (in 
537)  threw  down  its  statues  on  the  assailing  Goths ; 
and  a  prison,  where  Beatrice  Cenci,  Benvenuto  Cellini, 
Cagliostro,  Pope  John  X.  (suffocated  hereV  etc.,  were 
shut  up.  Very  interesting  interior,  tomo  chambers, 
inclined  planes,  cells,  papal  suite  (where  Clement  VII. 
took  refuge  when  Bourbon's  troops  sacked  Rome),  and 
grand  view  from  top,  on  which  see  bronze  angel,  com- 
memorating Gregory  the  Great's  vision  of  Archangel 
Michael  sheathing  his  sword  on  this  spot,  after  which 
the  plague  ceased  to  devastate  Rome  (hence  name  of 
castle).  A  covered  way  runs  hence  to  the  Vatican. 
Near  by  is  enormous  8.  Spirito  Hospital,  for  sick, 
aged,  lunatics,  and  foundlings  (open  2-4),  accommo* 
dating  nearly  5,000  persons.  The  Borgo  Nuovo  leads 
by  several  chs.  and  palaces  (Girand,  Riceiardi,  etc.),  and 
the  Piarga  RwHcur/rty  where  Raphael  died,  to  the  mag- 
nificent St  Peter's  Bqnare  (Piazza  di  S.  Pietrof, 
1110  X  840  ft.  in  area,  surrounded  by  imposing  Done 
colonnades,  built  by  Bernini  in  1667,  and  composed  of 


ROME.  35L 

284  colamnfl  and  90  pilasters,  each  41^  ft.  high.  On  the 
roofs  are  126  colossal  statues  of  saints.  Li  centre  of 
square  (or  rather  circle)  stands  an  Obelisk  brought  by 
Caligula  from  E^ptian  Heliopolis,  and  set  up  here  in 
1586.  At  each  siae  is  a  handsome  fountain  (46  ft.  high) .. 
Entrance  to  St.  Peter's  in  front ;  to  the  Vatican,  to  the 
r.,  at  end  of  colonnade.  St  Pater's  was  built  by 
Constantine  (a.d.  326),  on  site  of  Nero's  circus,  where 
St.  Peter  was  martyred,  and  surrounded  by  rich  chs., 
convents,  etc.  Charlemagne  and  many  emperors  and 
popes  were  crowned  there.  In  1450-1626  the  present 
eh.  was  built,  having  among  its  architects  Bramante, 
Raphael,  Peruzzi,  Michael  Angelo  (from  his  72d  to  79th 
year),  Fontana,  and  Bernini.  It  cost  over  $60,000,000 ; 
took  176  years  (the  reigns  of  28  popes)  to  build;  and 
covers  240,000  sq.  ft.,  being  the  largest  ch.  in  the  world. 
Total  length,  696  ft. ;  length  of  transept,  450  ft. ; 
length  of  nave,  619  ft.;  width  of  nave,  88  ft.  (height, 
153  ft.)  ;  height  of  dome  and  cross,  470  ft. ;  diameter, 
141  ft.  Faf^e  (finished  in  1612),  369  ft.  long,  165  ft. 
high,  crowned  by  statues  of  Christ  and  Apostles,  each 
19  ft.  high.  Portico,  234  X  43  ft.  (66  ft.  high),  with 
colossal  statues  of  Constantine  and  Charlemagne,  Giot- 
to's mosaic  of  La  Navicella,  and  brazen  central  doors 
(made  in  1447).  Interior  has  30  altars,  148  columns 
(mostly  from  ruins  of  ancient  Rome) ;  inhiid  marble 
pavement  (see  stones  sliowing  length  of  other  great 
chs.),  brilliantly  gilded  vaulting  upheld  by  Corinthian 
pillars  and  piers,  famous  bronze  statue  of  St.  Peter 
enthroned,  many  colossal  statues  of  saints,  vast  in- 
scriptions and  pictures  in  mosaic,  canopy  95  ft.  high 
maoe  by  Bernini  (1633)  of  bronze  from  Pantheon,  high 
altar  over  tomb  of  St.  Peter  (which  is  approached  by 
marble  stairs,  and  surrounaed  by  112  ever-burning 
lamps),  wooden  throne  of  St.  Peter,  many  vast  anrf 


352  THE  VATICAN. 

beautiful  cbapels,  tombs  of  the  popes,  vmay  paintiugs 
by  great  masters,  and  statues  by  Michael  An^lo, 
danova,  Thorwaldsen.  See  tombs  of  Maria  Sobieski, 
several  Stuart  princes,  Palestrina,  Christina  of  Sweden, 
etc.  In  Sacristy  (1775),  see  3  chapels,  many  rare 
pictures  by  Giotix),  etc.  In  Treasury,  see  candelabm 
oy  Cellini  and  Angelo,  Charlemagne's  dalmatic^  and 
rare  jewels.  The  Crypts  are  very  interesting,  with  many 
chapels,  mosaics,  carvings,  and  tombs.  137  popes  were 
buned  in  St.  Peter's.  The  Dame  (open  daily, .  8-10), 
630  ft.  around,  rises  308  ft.  above  the  roof  fto  which, 
142  steps).  Look  down  into  ch.  from  inner  gallery. 
Stairs  between  inner  and  outer  dome  to  Lantern  (grand 
view  over  Rome  and  Campagna),  whence  you  may  climb 
into  baU  under  cross  (large  enough  to  hold  16  persons). 
Walk  around  the  ch.,  outside,  to  see  its  vast  propor- 
tions.  At  its  side  and  rear,  see  ancient  German  eeme* 
tery  and  hospice ;  and  Palace  of  the  Inquisition  (now 
barracks). 

The  Vatican,  the  largest  palace  in  the  world,  ad- 
joins St.  Peter's,  and  has  20  courts  and  11,000  halls 
and  rooms.  Pope  Symmachus  founded  first  papal 
palace  here  in  498;  and  Charlemagne  dwelt  therem. 
After  return  from  Avignon  the  popes  lived  here,  desert- 
ing the  Lateran;  and  after  1450  the  palace  was  en- 
larged by  successive  popes,  from  designs  by  Bramante, 
Bernini,  etc.  Notice  singular  uniforms  of  Swiss 
guards,  designed  by  Michael  Angelo.  Ascend  splen- 
did  Scala  Regia  to  SSstine  Chapel,  built  and  named 
for  Pope  Sixtus  IV.  in  1473,  133  X  45  ft.  in  area  (best 
light  it  morning).  Frescos  by  Signorelli,  Botticelli, 
etc.  Magnificent  ceiling,  frescoed  by  Michael  Angelo 
(1508-11),  Creation,  Fall,  Delu^,  Prophets  and 
Sibyls,  etc.  On  altar- wall,  64  ft.  wide,  Angelo's  terri- 
ble  and  incomparable  Last  Judgment.     See  Pauli/n 


ROME.  35S 

ChapeC  (1540),  with  other  frescos  bj  Angelo;  Sola 
Dacale,  £resoos  by  Brill;  and  Sala  Regia,  historical 
frescos  by  Yasari,  etc.  The  lK>ggie  are  adorned  witb 
Biblical  scenes,  from  Baphaers  designs,  and  beautiful 
stucco  work.  Raphael's  Staaze  are  4  rooms  con- 
taining the  noblest  frescos  of  Raphael  (1508-20X  the 
Disputa,  Parnassus,  School  of  Athens,  Helioaorus, 
Attua,  liiberatiou  of  St.  Peter,  etc.  The  Chapel  of 
Nicholas  F.  has  spiritual  frescos  by  Era  Ai^lioo 
(1447).  The  Picture-Gallery  contains  paintings 
taken  by  Napoleon  from  the  Roman  chs.,  and  placed 
here  when  brought  back  from  Paris.  See  Raphael's 
Transfiguration  and  Madonna  di  Foligno,  Domeni- 
chino's  St.  Jerome,  and  works  of  Leonardo,  Pra  An- 
gelico,  Titian,  Guido,  Murillo,  etc.  The  Museum  of 
Sculptures  (closed  lliiou.  and  Thur.,  2-4)  contains 
1,800  pieces,  including  Apollo  Belvedere,  Perseus  of 
Canova,  Laocoon,  Juno,  Minerva  Medica,  Mercury^ 
Torso,  Penelope,  Eros,  etc.  See  abo  porphyry  sarcopha- 
gus  of  Empress  Helena;  Braccio  Nuovo  nail,  with  15 
splendid  ancient  columns  (alabaster,  etc.) ;  Belvedere 
Court;  Sala  delleMuse,  with  16  Carrara-marble  col- 
umns;  Sala  Rotonda,  on  model  of  Pantheon;  Hall 
of  Greek  Cross;  magnificent  Tapestry  of  Raphael 
(1515-16),  representing  Biblical  scenes;  Gregorian 
Museum  of  Etruscan  Antiquities,  in  12  rooms ;  JE^yptian 
Museum,  10  rooms;  Library  and  Archives,  120,000 
vols,  and  24,000  MSS.  (many  of  them  very  precious); 
papal  manufactory  of  mosaic,  where  10,000  colors  and 
shades  of  fflass  are  used ;  and  gardens  of  Vatican. 

Stroll  oown  the  riverside  Longara,  nearly  1  M. 
louK,  joining  the  Leonine  City  (where  are  St.  Peter's 
ana  the  Vatican)  to  Trastevere.  Passing  under  Gate 
of  the  Holy  Spirit,  ascend  to  S.  Onofrio  ch.  (1439X 
with  tombs  of  Tasso  and  Mezzofanti.     Adjacent  mor 


354   TRASTEVERE.  —  JANICULAN  HILL. 

astery  has  Leonardo's  Madonna,  Tasso's  cell  and  oak. 
Farther  down  Longara,  see  fine  Palazzo  Salviati  (now 
civic  archives)  ;  Botanical  Garderu ;  very  beautiful 
Villa  Farneslna  Q506),  with  Baphael's  famous  fres- 
cos of  Psyche  and  Galatea;  and  PalasBO  Corsini 
([open  Mon.,  Thurs.,  Sat.,  9-3^  with  9  halls  of  paint- 
ings, S  of  books  and  MSS.,  ana  a  garden  of  rare  beauty. 
Enter,  by  Porta  Settimianay  into  Trastevera  (from 
Trans-Tiber),  a  quarter  whose  inhabitants  claim  to  be 
direct  descendants  of  the  ancient  Romans.  See  12th- 
century  basilica  of  S,  Cnsogono,  near  which  mosaic- 
paved  and  frescoed  house  of  No.  7  company  of  old 
Iloman  (3d-century)  fire  department ;  S.  Maria  Traate- 
vere,  built  by  Calixtus  I.  (a.d.  217),  with  22  antiq^ue 
columns,  mosaics,  etc. ;  St.  Cecilia  (a.d.  222),  with 
mosaics,  broad  court,  portico  on  African-marble  col- 
umns, and  tomb  of  St.  Cecilia,  whose  house  stood  on 
this  site. 

On  the  Janiciilan  Hill  over  Trastevere,  command* 
ing  a  noble  panoramic  view  of  Rome  and  mts.,  see  S. 
Fietro  In  Montorio  (1500),  on  site  of  St.  Peter's 
martyrdom,  with  many  ancient  paintings;  Tempietto 
(1502)  in  court  of  adjacent  monastery,  with  16  Doric 
columns ;  Acqua  Faola,  a  magnificent  old  fountain, 
outlet  of  Trajan's  aqueduct ;  S.  Pancrazio  Gate  (fine 
views  near) ;  and  Filla  Doria  Tamfiliy  a  yenr  lovelv 
park  and  casino.  This  trip  over  the  Janiculan  Hill 
should  not  be  omitted. 

Between  Trastevere  and  the  Ghetto,  in  the  Tiber,  is 
the  Island  of  8.  Bartolommeo  (ancient  bridges 
from  both  shores),  with  Ch.  of  S.  Bartolommeo  (built 
A.D.  1000),  with  14  ancient  columns,  on  site  of  a 
heathen  temple  (^sculapius  was  worshipped  here). 
The  island  also  has  a  large  monastery,  and  a  fountain- 
adorned  square. 


ROME.  355 

The  Capitol  is  reached  by  asphalt  stairs  from  Piazza 
Ara  Codi,  with  Egyptian  lions  at  base,  and  marble 
Pioscori  (Castor  and  JPollux),  or  Horse-Tamers,  at  the 
top.  See,  also,  the  Trophies  of  Marius ;  antique  statues 
of  Constantino  and  Constans;  and  male  and  female 
wolves,  caged.  The  Piazza  del  Campidoglio,  planned 
by  Michael  Angelo  and  built  by  Paul  III.  (1536),  has 
in  its  centre  the  famous  and  unrivalled  antique  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  anciently  sup- 
posed to  represent  Constantine,  and  placed  before  the 
Lateran  from  1187  to  1538.  The  palaces  on  tliree 
sides  were  built  or  remodelled  by  Angelo.  The  Pal- 
ace of  the  Cooaenrators  (r.  side ;  open  10-^)  con- 
tains  halb  of  busts  of  celebrated  Italians,  Latin  sculp- 
tures, Etruscan  museum,  great  halls  with  frescos  from 
Punic  and  Cimbrian  wars,  and  a  gallery  of  200-300 

?aintings.  In  the  CajHtoIine  MuBeum  i\,  side ;  open 
0-3)  see  Marforio,  the  colossal  river-goa,  and  sarco- 
phagi ;  halls  of  bronzes  and  urns ;  ancient  marble  pUn 
of  Rome ;  exquisitely  fine  mosaic  of  Doves  of  Plmv ; 
82  antique  busts  of  emperors ;  antique  statues  of  the 
philosopners  and  ^ods;  and  vast  number  of  famous 
classic  sculptures,  mcluding  Capitoline  Juno,  Amazon, 
Antinous,  rosso-antico  Eaun,  Dying  Gladiator,  and 
Capitoline  Venus  (in  closed  cabinet).  The  Palace 
of  the  Senator,  at  end  of  square,  was  built  in  1389, 
and  adorned  by  Michael  Angelo.  It  is  now  the  town- 
hall.  The  campanile  (1572)  commands  a  fine  view, 
and  contains  great  bell.  Just  S.  E.  is  the  Tarpeian 
Rock.  Streets  lead  from  Capitol  down  into  Forum. 
High  over  Capitol  (long  stairway),  on  site  of  Temple 
of  Jupiter,  is  9th-cent.  Oh.  of  S.Maria  in  Ara  Coeliy 
with  homely  front,  and  interior  adorned  with  22  an- 
tique columns  of  assorted  sizes,  many  paintings,  chapel 
of  the  Bambino,  tomb  of  St.  Helena,  etc.    Adjacent  if 


856  TRAJx\N'S  COLUMN. 

splendid  Francisean  monastery  (1251),  with  two 
courts,  BOW  a  barrack.  While  hearing  the  inonks 
chant  in  Ara  OcbU  (1764),  Gibbon  conceived  the 
idea  of  his  famous  history. 

The  Mamertine  Prison,  between  Ara  Ooali  and 
Forum  {fee,  ^1.)^  was  built  by  the  early  kings  of 
Rome,  very  massively.  Here  were  slain  Jngurtfaa, 
Yereingetorix,  Joras,  and  Catiline's  allies ;  and  here  St. 
Peter  was  imprisoned  (they  show  pillar  to  which  he 
was  chained). 

Between  the  Forum  and  Tiber,  see  round  7th-cen. 
tury  Ch.  of  S.  Teodorc ;  temple  of  Janms  Ouadrifrons, 
built  in  Constantino's  time;  4th-ceBtary  basihca  of  S. 
Giorgio  in  Felabro,  with  antique  columns ;  Arcus  Ar^ 
ffentarius,  built  by  merchants  of  adjacent  Forum 
Boarium  (eattle-market)  to  Septimius  Severus ;  mouth 
nii  great  sewer  of  Gloaoa  BCajdma;  3d-century  ch. 
of  S.  M€bria  in  Co^medin,  on  site  and  with  columns  of 
King  Servius's  Temple  of  Fortune,  and  with  handsome 
8th-century  campanile;  round  temple  (of  Vesta,  or 
Hercules),  surrounded  by  19  (once  20)  Corinthian 
columns;  pretty  little  Ionic  temple,  now  Ch.  of  S. 
Maria  Egiziaea;  House  of  Bifinzi  (lOih  century) ;  and 
Ponte  Rotto  {Pons  j^hnilius),  with  suspension-bridge 
filhng  place  of  arches  swept  away  in  1598,  leading 
to  Trastevere. 

Ttajan's  Column,  87  ft.  high  (188  ft.  with  base 
and  statue  of  St.  Peter),  is  surrounded  with  a  spiral 
bas-relief,  3  ft.  wide  and  660  ft.  long,  on  which  are  2,500 
human  fieures,  illustrating  events  of  Dacian  war.  Tra- 
ian  was  buried  beneath.  Stairs  inside  to  top.  Close 
oy,  see  remains  of  vast  Basilica  Ulpia,  built  a.d.  111«^ 
114,  by  ApoUodorus  of  Damascus,  for  Trajan,  and  once 
the  grandest  building  in  Rome.  See,  also,  chs.  of  Nome 
^^aria  (1683)  and  Loreto  (1507).    Near  by  are  frag. 


ROME.  357 

ments  of  Forum  ofAugustm,  of  which  s  massiTe  walU 
450  ft.  long,  and  3  columns  of  Temple  of  Mars  Ultor 
remain.  The  Academy  of  St,  Luke  (open  9-3)  contains 
statuary  by  Canova  and  Thorwaldsen,  and  many  fine 
old  paintings,  including  veiled  pictures  by  Titian,  etc. 
This  is  a  choice  collection.  Near  by  is  an  imposing 
fnigment  of  Nerva*9  Forum. 

The  Palace  of  tbe  CsMani  consists  of  enormous- 
ruins  on  the  Palatine,  the  original  site  of  early  Rome, 
where  dwelt  Evander,  Romulus,  Catiline,  Cicero,  Au- 
gustus, Tiberius,  Vespasian,  Odoacer,  Theodoric,  etc.. 
Fifty  years  ago  the  Palatine  was  a  hill  of  vineyards,, 
with  convents,  but  the  emperors  of  Russia  and  France 
began  excavations,  which  Italy  has  continoed  (openi 
Sun.  and  Thurs.  in  summer,  9-7).  Enter  from  Forum, 
and  see  Museum,  with  articles  found  here;  foundations, 
of  Caligula's  palace;  parts  of  Tiberius's  palace;  hand-^ 
some  private  house  of  Livia,  with  mural  paintings  ;  Fla- 
vian pakce,  built  by  Vespasian ;  platform  of  Temple 
of  Jupiter  Victor ;  colonnades ;  stairs  hewn  in  rock ; 
school-house;  and  other  very  interesting  ruins.  (Get 
local  guide.) 

The  Forum  Romanum  was  a  marshy  space  be- 
tween the  Capitol  and  Palatine,  tbe  battle-ground  of 
Sabines  and  Romans,  afterwards  the  centre  of  their  state, 
embellished  with  many  splendid  temples  and  statues,  the 
scene  of  many  famous  events,  and  seat  of  the  councils^ 
which  ruled  the  world.  After  the  fail  of  Rome,  some 
of  the  temples  became  chs.  and  others  were  iom  down, 
for  building  materials ;  and^he  troops  who  came  to  thtr 
aid  of  Hilaebrand,  in  tlie  11th  century,  completed  the 
destruction.  Over  this  rubbish-heaped  Campo  Vaccina 
(cow-pasture),  fortresses  and  }k)uses  arose.  In  1536> 
Paul  III.  b^an  to  clear  the  gi  ound,  but  little  was  done 
until  1803.    Since  1871  extensive  works  have  Wen  car* 


368  FORUM  ROMA^'UM. 

ried  on.  Tke  original  level  was  30  ft.  below  the  pres- 
«nt.  The  remains  of  the  Tabnlaiium  (built  b.c.  87), 
▼ast  Ywalis  for  aichives  and  3,000  bronze  tables  of  de- 
■crees  and  veeords,  now  senre  as  foundations  for  Palace 
of  the  Senator.  See  its  ponderous  arcades  and  gaUerr, 
«nd  view  over  Forum.  The  marble  Arck  of  JSepiimw 
Severus  is  covered  with  sculptures  of  the  victories  of 
Septimins,  and  his  sons  Caracalla  and  Geta,  over  the 
Partfaians  and  Arabians.  Erected  in  203»  it  became  a 
■medisval  eastle,  and  was  excavated  in  1803.  Back  of  it 
^re  remains  of  Temple  of  Concord  (b.c.  366,  restored  by 
Tiberius),  where  the  Senate  sometimes  met,  and  Cicero 
impeached  Catiline.  The  tall  white  columns  near  bj 
pertained  to  the  Temple  of  VespoHan  (once  of  Jupiter 
TonansX  built  by  Domitian,  and  restored  by  Septimius 
4uid  Caraealla.  To  the  W.  stand  the  Schola  XatUka,  the 
bome  of  the  official  scribes,  and  the  Colonnade  of  the 
Twelve  Gods  (built  a.d.  367,  by  an  anti-Christian  pne- 
feet).  8  granite  Ionic  columns  in  front  of  Vespasian's 
Temple,  pertained  to  Temple  ^^^«m,  the  treasury  of 
ihe  republic  (built  b.c.  491),  in  good  order  till  15tb  cen- 
tury. Near  by  were  the  orators'  tribunes  (rostra),  often 
4i8ed  by  Cicero.  The  Colnmn  ofFAoeas  was  erected  in 
•608,  in  honor  of  a  Greek  emperor,  and  excavated  in  1813, 
at  cost  of  Duchess  of  Devonshire.  Near  by,  see  Basilica 
Julia,  333  by  159  ft.,  built  by  Ctesar,  with  parts  of 
its  many  ptlktrs  remaining.  3  Parian-marble  columns 
.still  stand  on  site  of  splendid  Temple  of  Castor  and  FoUns 
(built  B.C.  484 ;  rebuilt  a.d.  6).  On  E.  are  founda- 
tions of  Temple  of  O^/vr,  where  Mark  Antony  deliv- 
•ared  his  funeral  oration.  The  Temple  of  Faustina  (ad. 
141),  fairlv  preserved,  with  10  magnificent  £uboean- 
marble  columns,  encloses  the  cb.  of  8,  Lorenzo  in  Mi* 
randa*  Divine  honors  were  accorded  by  the  Senate  to 
Faustina  ani  Antoninus,  her  husband.    See  adjacent 


ROME.  35^ 

7tli-century  ch.  of  S.  Adriano,  on  site  of  Curia  HosHlia^ 
The  Via  Sacra,  leading  from  S.  gate  of  Rome  to  Cap- 
itol, lies  20  ft.  below  the  road.  The  eaeMhx  Temple  oj^ 
Romulus  is  now  the  ch.  of  SS.  Cosmo  and  Damian,  witb 
porphyry  columns,  bronze  doors,  6th-century  mosaics,, 
and  tombs  of  saints.  The  Basilica  of  Canstaniine,  origi- 
nally 300  by  264  ft.  in  area,  has  3  stupendous  arches 
remaining  (beautiful  view  from  top).  Back  of  ch.  of  S. 
Francesca  Rom^na  (interesting  tombs  and  relics)  are 
ruins  of  once  superb  Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  de- 
signed by  Hadrian,  who  would  be  architect  as  well  as 
emperor  (a.d.  135).  The  marble  Triumphal  Arch  of" 
Tttus,  small,  but  very  interesting  and  graceful,  com- 
memorates the  victories  over  the  Jews,  a.d.  70.  It  was- 
a  medisdval  fortress  of  the  Frangipani.  See  the  bas-^ 
reliefs.  Hence  the  Sacred  Way  descends  to  the  vast 
building  named,  from  colossal  statue  of  Nero,  tbe  Colos- 
•emn,  Rome's  chief  marvel.  It  was  founded  by  Ves- 
pasian and  finished  by  Titus,  Jewish  captives  doing  the 
work  (a.d.  80) ;'  10,000  men  and  5,000  beasts  were  slain 
at  its  inauguration;  the  scene  of  countless  fights  of 
gladiators  and  wild  beasts ;  and  of  magnificent  celebra- 
tion of  1000th  anniversary  of  Rome's  foundation  (a.d: 
24S) ;  afterwards  fortress  of  Frangipani,  Annibaldi, 
etc. ;  in  14th  and  loth  centuries  a  quarry,  its  fine  ma- 
sonry being  used  to  build  Famese,  Cancelleria,  S.  Mar- 
co, and  other  vast  palaces ;  about  1750  redeemed,  and 
consecrated  to  the  Passion  of  Christ.  It  is  an  ellipse,  J 
M.  around  and  156  ft.  high,  with  arena  279  by  174  ft. 
in  area,  which  could  be  flooded  for  naval  combats: 
87,000  spectators  could  be  accommodated.  Only  J  oi 
the  Cobsseum  now  stands.  Visit  it  by  mocmlight  also. 
The  adjacent  Arch  of  Constantine^  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  Rome,  commemorates  the  victory  over  Max- 
entius  (311),  the  Pagan  emperor,  and  stands  on  the 


360    BATHS  OF  TITUS.  —  S.  STEFANO  ROTONDa 

Triumpbal  Way.    The  best  of  the  man  j  sculptures  were 
taken  from  a&  older  mouument  of  Trajan.     Pius  YIL 
uuburied  this  arch  in  1804.    Close  by,  see  remains  of 
sumptuous  Batbs  of  Titiis  (^  fr.),  on  the  EaNquiline. 
on  part  of  site  of  Nero's  Golden  House.   Beautifcd  mu- 
ral paintings  here,  which  suggested  Raphael's  freseos  in 
Vatican  lo^aie.    8.  Clemente,  the  oldest  ch.  in  Rome, 
is  midway  between  the  Colosseum  and  Lateran.     Up- 
per ch.  is  a  basilica,  witU  16  antique  columns,  old  mo- 
saics, and  rich  canopy.  The  lower  ch.,  built  before  392, 
4uid  damaged  by  Guiscard's  Norman  army  (1084),  has 
been  excavated  since  1858.    It  has  16  antique  columns 
And  Sth^century  frescos  (very  interesting).     Still  far- 
ther down  are  remains  of  St.  Clement's  (4th  pope) 
house,  discovered  in  1867.      (See  Hachette'a  guide- 
book.)    Near  by,  on  lonely  Celian  Hill,  see  ch.  of  8S. 
Qiiatro  Coronati,  to  4  saints  martyred  by  Diocletian, 
—  very  ancient,  destroyed  by  Guiscajxi's  Normans,  and 
restored  in  1111 ;  S.  Stefano  Rotondo,  the  largest 
•circular  ch.  in  existence,  built  by  Simplicius  in  470, 
with  56  columns  and  many  frescos  of  terrible  mar- 
tyrdoms; IjA  Navicalla,  rebuilt  in  817,  with  many 
columns  of  granite  and  porphyry,  and  9th -century  mosa- 
ics ;  5th-century  SS.  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  with  Passionist 
monastery  and  garden ;  S,  Gregorio  (575),  16  antique 
columns,  part  ot  St.  Gregory's  house,  a  bit  of  Servian 
Wall,  and  3  very  interesting  detached  chapels. 

The  broad  Piazza  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Laterano  has  a 
led-granite  obelisk  104  ft.  high  (with  pedestal,  153  ft.), 
erected  at  Thebes,  B.C.  1560;  brought  to  Rome  by 
Constantine,  a.d.  357;  and  set  up  here  in  1587.  On 
one  side,  Women's  Hospital;  opposite  which  seeBeala 
Santa,  28  marble  steps  (brought  to  Bxime  by  £mpress 
Helena,  in  326),  by  which  Christ  is  said  to  liave  entered 
Pilate's  fjalace,  at  Jerusalem.     They  are  ascended  on 


ROME.  36] 

the  knees  only,  and  lead  to  very  sacred  chapel  (127S). 
Here,  alongsicle  wall  of  Rome)  and  overlooking  Cam- 
pagna  and  mts.,  stands  venerable  liasilica  of  S»  Giovanni 
in  Ijateran,  on  whose  front  is  inscribed  Omnium  nrbin 
et  orbis  ecclenarum  mater  et  caput.  This  is  the  Pope's 
ctu  as  Bishop  of  Rome ;  at  St.  Peter's  he  is  sovereign 
Pontiff  of  the  world.  Five  ecumenical  councils  were 
held  here,  between  1123  and  1512.  Constantine  built 
first  ch.  here,  on  site  of  palace  of  Laterani  family. 
Present  ch.  built  1360-1734.  Facade  with  colossal 
statues,  bronze  doors,  statue  of  Constantine.  Inte- 
rior has  grand  nave,  with  4  aisles,  inlaid  pavement, 
massive  pillars  with  21  statues  of  Prophets  and  Apos- 
tles, bronze  statue  of  Martin  V.,  Altar  of  the  Sacrament 
(with  antique  columns  of  gilded  bronze),  many  fine  old 
mosaics,  Giotto's  fresco  of  Pope  Boniface  VIII.,  mag- 
mficent  Corsini  Chapel  (inlaid  with  precious  stones), 
Torlonia  Chapel  (in  white  marble  and  gold),  Donatel- 
lo's  wooden  statue  of  St  John  the  Baptist,  Bernini's 
Pietk,  and  the  great  Papal  Altar,  over  which  is  a  canopy 
oontaining  heads  of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul.  Beautiful 
13th-century  monastery  court  adjacent ;  also  octagonal 
Baptistery y  in  which  it  is  said  that  Constantine  was 
baptized,  with  8  porphyry  columns,  basalt  font,  bronze 
doors  (1196),  7th-century  mosaics,   and  3  oratories 

Suilt  in  461  and  640).  In  adiacent  Lateran  Palace 
B  popes  iwelt  for  a  thousana  years  (to  1377).  Pres- 
ent palact  ouilt  in  1586 ;  and  in  1843  converted  into 
vast  and  interesting  museum  (open  9-4^  *of  antique 
sculptures.  Christian  sarcophagi  and  inscriptions  (from 
catacombs),  and  picture-gallery  filling  8  rooms,  with 
remarkable  Latin  mosaics. 

B.  Crooe  in  Gemsalemma,  among  lonely  fields 
between  Aqua  Claudia  and  Roman  wall,  is  a  4th-cen- 
tury  basilica,  founded  by  Empress  Helena,  on  earth 


362  BATHS  OF  CAEACALLA. 

brou^Iit  from  Jerasalem,  with  mosaics,  frescos,  tombs 
of  saints,  and  the  Inscription  on  tlie  Cross.  Cistercian 
monastery  adjacent,  witn  famous  library.  Also,  ruins 
of  Caatreusian  Amphitheatre^  etc.  To  N.,  ruins  of  3d- 
century  decagonal  Temple  of  Minerva  Medica,  once  rich 
in  statues ;  and  near  rly.,  S.  Bibiana  (470),  with  an- 
tique columns  inside.  In  casino  of  Villa  Sffaaaimo, 
on  Piazza  Lateran,  ricli  modern  frescos  from  Daute, 
Tasso,  and  Ariosto,  by  Overbeck,  Schnorr,  etc.  Villa 
Wolkomky  near  by. 

The  marble-clad  brick  Pyramid  of  Cestius,  at  Porta 
S.  Paolo,  is  116  ft.  high  (base,  98  ft.  square),  with 
chamber  19  X  13  ft.,  where  the  tribune  Caius  Cestius 
was  buried  (b.c.  30).  Close  by  are  the  Protestant 
Cemeteries,  with  graves  of  Keats,  Severn,  etc.,  and  of 
the  heart  of  Shelley.  See,  across  meadows,  the  lonely 
Monte  TestacciOy  164  ft.  high,  composed  entirely  of 
broken  pottery,  crowned  by  across  (grand  view  hence), 
and  cut  into  ty  wine-sellers'  grottos.  To  the  N.,  see 
ancient  Latin  Emporium  and  quays  of  Marmorata  ;  also 
3  chs.  on  Aventine :  S.  Sabina,  built  in  425,  in  basilica 
form,  with  24  antique  Corinthian  columns  of  Parian 
marble,  and  open  roof,  and  adjacent  Dominican  mon- 
astery (beautiful  cloisters) ;  &.  Alessio,  very  ancient, 
restored  in  1217,  with  Hieronymite  monastery  adjoin- 
ing ;  and  S.  Maria  Aveniina,  with  tombs  of  Xnights  of 
Malta,  whose  priory  is  close  by. 

The  Baths  of  CaracaUa  (fee,  1 1.),  nearly  1  M. 
from  Arch<6f  Constantine  (by  S,  Balbina,  a  very  ancient 
ch.,  with  open  roof),  still  show  remauis  of  their  an- 
cient vastness  and  magnificence.  They  cover  an  area 
1,080  ft.  square,  and  could  accommodate  1,600  bathers. 
CaracaUa  was  the  founder  (a.d.  ii2).  Many  famous 
statues  were  discovered  here.  Splei  did  view  from  roof. 
Near  by,  see  ch.  of  SS,  Nereo  ei  AchilleOy  built  by 


THE  APPIAN  WAY.  363 

Leo  in.  in  300,  on  site  of  Temple  of  Isis,  in  basilica 
style;  S,  Sisto,  and  convent  of  S.  Domemno ;  very 
ancient  8.  Cesareo  ;  and,  near  the  closed  Foria  Latina, 
old  chs.  of  S.  Giooanm,  and  a  Latin  tomb.  Beyond 
Tomb  of  the  Scipios  (i  fr.)  and  Columbaria,  the  street 
passes  the  mutilated  Arch  of  Drusus  (b.c.  8),  and  enters 
the  Appian  Way  at  S.  Sebastian  Gate. 

The  Appian  "Way  (called  Begina  Fiarum)  was 
begun  B.C.  812  by  Appius  Claudius,  and  ran  to  Capua, 
and  afterwards  to  Brindisi,  forming  main  route  to  S. 
Italy,  Greece,  and  Egypt.  By  order  of  Pius  IX.  it 
was  excavated  as  far  as  Fratocchiey  II  M.  out,  on  rly, 
to  Albano.  Beautiful  views  all  along,  of  Campagna, 
aqueducts,  and  Alban  Mts.  Beyond  Domine  quo 
Vadis  ch.,  a  path  leads  off  to  Temple  of  Deus  Rediculus, 
a  handsome  httle  building  of  Hadrian  s  era ;  the  Qrotto 
4^  Egeria;  a  red-brick  2d-century  tomb,  or  temple, 
now  the  ch.  of  S.  Urbano  (with  frescos  of  a.d.  1011)  ; 
and  the  tombs  on  the  Via  Latina.  On  Via  Appia  are 
Cataoombs  of  8.  Calixtus  (fee,  1-2  ].)»  ^^  tombs 
of  St.  Cecilia  and  many  2d  and  3d  centurj  popes  and 
martyrs,  and  7th-century  Byzantine  paintings.  Cata- 
combs of  Domitilla  and  St.  Pratextatus  near  bv.  i  M. 
beyond  is  very  ancient  S.  Sebaatiano  ch.,  under  which 
are  extensive  catacombs  (1 1.).  Farther  on  see  remains 
of  Circus  of  MaxentiuSy  built  in  311,  1,590  ft.  long, 
with  seats  for  18,000  people.  On  hill  beyond  stands 
the  famous  Tomb  of  Caeilia  Metella,  round,  65  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  in  13th  century  a  tower  of  now  vanished 
castle  of  the  GaetanL  Beyond,  the  Way  is  bordered  by 
ancient  tombs  on  either  side,  and  the  old  Latin  pavement 
is  the  road-bed.    Noble  views  of  the  mts.  and  the  far 

Prolonged  arches  of  Aqua  Marcia  and  Aqua  Claudia.    6 
I.  out  is  Quale  Eotondo,  a  large  tomb ;  and  it  is  8  M» 
theyy-^  to  Albano.     Near  4th  milestone  is  Tomb  ^ 


364  THE  CAMPAGNA. 

Seneca  (so  called),  near  site  of  Seneca's  house,  and  also 
near  ruins  of  beautiful  little  Temple  of  Jupiter,  where 
many  Christians  suffered  martyrdom.  3  tumuli,  1  M. 
beyond,  are  thought  to  be  the  tombs  of  the  Horatii  and 
Curiatii.  At  9th  milestone  ar&ponderous  brick  ruins  c^ 
villa  and  tomb  of  Emperor  GalLenus. 

Ezcuraions  near  Rome.  —  The  Campagna  is  a 
great  rolling  plain  of  volcanic  earth,  between  the  sea 
and  the  Sabme  Mts.,  with  shallow  ravines  and  low  steep 
hills.  Pools  of  water  collect  here  in  winter,  and  stag- 
nate in  summer,  giving  forth  the  terrible  malaria  which 
makes  Rome's  vicinity  so  unhealthy.  But  every  tourist 
should  see  Italy  in  her  fair  summer  attire;  and  au 
August  sojourn  may  be  made  at  Rome  with  safety,  by 
takmg  due  precautions  after  sundown,  and  keeping  in. 
doors  at  evening. 

The  patriarchal  and  pilgrimage  ch.  of  S.  Lorenzo  fu- 
ori  le  Mnrd,  J  M.  beyond  Porta  di  S.  Lorenzo,  on  tomb 
of  St.  Lawrence,  was  founded  by  Constantine ;  rebuilt 
in  678 ;  remodelled  in  1216  ;  ancl  restored  in  1864-70. 
See  bronze  statue  of  St.  Lawrence,  in  square;  fa9ade 
with  frescos  of  founders ;  10th-century  mosaic  pave- 
ment ;  22  antique  Ionic  columns  of  nave,  upholding 
open  roof;  lower  and  older  ch.,  with  12  noble  Corin- 
thian columns  of  pavonazzetto ;  violet-marble  columns 
in  presbytery ;  silver  shrine  with  remains  of  St.  Ijaw- 
rence;  iJeautiftil  13th-century  cloister  adiacent.  Great 
cemetery  near.  In  vestibule  Pius  IX.  is  buried.  The 
basilica  of  S.  Agnesa  faori  le  Mnra,  beyond  the 
Patrizi  and  Torlonia  villas,  \\  M.  outside  Porta  Pia, 
was  built  by  Constantine,  over  St.  Agnes's  tomb^  and 
testored  in  625  and  1856  Beyond  court,  45  marble 
steps  lead  down  to  the  ch.,  with  mosaics,  inlaid  altars, 

'*'  precious  antique  columns,  and  tabernacle  (with  por- 
ry  columns)  over  alabaster  statue  of  St.  Aguies. 


ROME.  365 

Adjacent  is  S.  Costanza,  built  by  Constantine  as  tomb 
of  bis  daughter  Constantia,  with  dome  resting  on  24 
columns  of  granite,  porphyry  sarcophagus  of  Gonstantia, 
and  4th-century  mosaics. 

8.  Paolo  fuori  le  Muri,  1^  M.  from  Porta  S. 
Paolo  (omnibus  every  \  hr.  from  Palazzo  Yenezia),  on 
Ostian  road,  alongside  Tiber,  is  on  site  of  a  deeply  ven- 
erated cb.  built  by  Constantine,  over  St.  Paul's  tomb, 
and  magnificently  enriched  and  enlarged  by  emperors 
and  popes,  but  burnt  in  1823.  Present  ch .,  consecrated 
in  1854,  of  valuable  materials  and  imposing  propor- 
tions, is  390  X  195  ft.  in  area,  and  75  ft.  high  (mside). 
Wonderfully  impressive  nave,  and  four  aisles,  with  80 
enormous  Simplon-granite  columns,  whose  bases  and 
capitals  are  of  marble ;  long  lines  of  mosaic  portraits  of 
all  the  popes ;  and  stauied|-glass  windows.  See  alabas- 
ter columns  given  by  Viceroy  of  Egypt;  malachite 
altars,  given  by  the  Czar;  5th-century  mosaics ;  splen- 
did altar-canopy  (1285)  ;  and  rich  chapels.  Adjacent 
is  beautiful  (now  secularized)  Benedictine  cloister 
(1220),  surrounding  orange-grove.  2  M.  hence  is 
S,  SeboMiiano  (p.  363) ;  and  out  on  Via  Ardeatina 
(li-2  M.)  are  abbey  and  3  clis.  (393-1599)  of  Tre 
Fontane,  where  St.  Paul  was  beheaded. 

The  handsome  Ponte  Molle,  1 J  M.  (dull  road)  from 
Porta  del  Popolo,  was  rebuilt  in  1815  on  site  of  Milvian 
Bridge,  built  b.c.  109,  where  Maxentius  was  slain,  after 
being  defeated  by  Constantine  (a.d.  312).  2  M.  out 
is  Aqua  Aoetoaa,  a  famous  old  mineral-spring,  beyond 
the  once  sumptuous  villa  which  Vignola  built  for  Pope 
Julius  III.  Beyond  Ponte  Molle  are  the  far-viewiti^ 
rock-tombs  of  the  Nasones,  the  Villa  of  Livia^  and  the 
&mous  Valley  of  Poussin. 

Monte  Mario,  1^  M.  from  Porta  Angelica,  is  a  bold 
hill  (road  to  top),  476  ft.  high,  and  commanding  a  supe^' 


366         TORRE  DEI  SCHIAVI.  —  ALBANO. 

▼iew  of  Eome,  the  Cami»agna,  the  mts.^  and  the  sea. 
There  are  several  villas  here,  among  which  see  Villa 
MeUiniy  famed  for  its  prospect,  and  Filla  Madama,  de- 
signed  by  Raphael,  ana  owned  in  turn  by  Clement  YII., 
the  Famese  family,  and  the  King  of  Nafdos.  See 
loggia,  with  freseos  by  Ginlio  Bomano. 

The  Via  NometUana  leads  from  Porta  Pia,  2  M., 
from  which  it  crosses  the  Anio  by  an  andeut  brtdse. 
1^  M.  beyond  is  the  famous  Mona  Saoer;  and  tke 
road  is  prolonged  to  the  battle-field  of  MetUana  (1867). 

The  Via  Pranestina  leads  from  Porta  Maggiore  to 
(2  M.)  the  Torre  del  Bchiavi,  a  favorite  resort  of 
artists.  It  is  a  lai^e  group  of  very  obscure  ruins,  once 
pertaining  to  the  vuia  of  Gordian,  jtnd  in  Middle  Ages 
used  for  a  ch.  and  a  castle.  3  M.  from  Porta  Mag- 
giore,  on  Via  Labieana,  are  the  ruind  of  the  mausoleum 
of  the  Empress  Helena  (now  a  ch.). 

The  Via  Campana  runs  along  the  Tiber,  from  Porta 
Portese  to  (5  M.)  the  Vi^fna  Ceecarelli,  with  scanty 
remains  of  temple  and  hall  of  ancient  agricultural 
brotherhood  of  the  Fratres  Arvales,  founded  by  tiie 
foster-brothers  of  Romulus,  to  invoke  the  Goddess  of 
Plenty.  Near  by,  see  well-preserved  Catacomis  of  S. 
Qensrosa ;  also  (near  Magliana  stat.^,  chateau  of  Ia 
Magliana,  once  frescoed  by  Baphael. 

The  Via  Salara  leads  from  the  Salarian  Gate  to 
(3^M.)  the  ancient  stone  bridge  over  the  AniOt  de- 
stroyed by  the  Goths,  rebuilt  by  Narses,  and  blown  up 
in  1867.  On  far- viewing  height  close  bv  stood  Antem- 
niB,  a  town  destroyed  by  Romulus ;  and  4  M.  beyond, 
near  Ca»M  Giubileo  (built  by  Boniface  YIII.  in  1300), 
are  the  scanty  ruins  of  Fidenae. 

Albano  {Hotel  de  la  Poste;  De  Busne;  CUim  di 
Pariffi)  is  18  M.  from  Rome  (1  hr. ;  faxes,  81  Mc, 
31.  10  c,  11.  90  e.),  by  rly.  across  Campagna,  crossing 


ITALY.  367 

lines  of  aqueducts  and  Via  Latina.  Climb  of  f  hr. 
(2^  M.)  from  stat.  to  Albano  (omnibus,  ^l).  Omni- 
buses run  twice  daily  from  Eome  to  Albfmo  (2^  hrs. ; 
8^  1.).  You  can  also  drive  hither  over  Appian  Way, 
At  Albano  were  Pompey*8  Filh,  Domitian's  ^at 
Albanum,  the  vineyards  whose  wine  Horace  praised, 
and  the  medisval  fortress  of  the  Savelli.  It  has  many 
Roman  relics,  especially  in  the  Villa  Doria  (open  to 
visitors).  The  high  situation  of  Albano  (1,250  ft.)  and 
its  pure  air  make  it  a  favorite  summer-resort.  The 
town  is  famous  for  handsome  women.  Bevond  the 
Villa  Barberini  is  the  large  papal  mlace  of  Castel 
Gandolfo,  still  pertaining  to  the  rope.  Beautiful 
view  from  Capuchin  Monastery.  Good  roads  on 
upj^er  and  lower  ffallerles  on  E.  of  Lake  Albano,  an 
extinct  crater,  shaded  with  trees,  and  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  Italian  lakes.  The  Homans  (b.c.  397)  cut  a 
tunnel  (still  remaining)  through  the  rock,  and  partly 
drained  it,  in  obedience  to  an  oracle.  AUm  Longa  was 
near  by.  A  magnificent  arcaded  stone  viaduct,  1,020  ft. 
long  and  192  ft  high  (built  1846-63),  crosses  the  glen 
from  Albano  to  ancient  Aricoia  {Martorelli),  a  town 
and  palace  pertaining  to  the  Chigi  family.  Iu)ads  lead 
through  noble  old  forests  to  Rocca  di  Papa,  a  village 
near  reputed  camp  of  Hannibal.  The  Via  Triumphalis 
ascends  to  crest  ot  Monte  Cavo  (3,130  ft.  high ;  very 
broad  view),  where  are  remains  of  great  Temple  of 
Jupiter  Latiaris,  the  chief  shrine  of  the  Latin  League 
(Passionbt  monastery  founded  here  in  1783).  This 
region  is  described  by  Yirgil  in  last  books  of  jSneid, 
where  Juno,  from  Monte  Cavo,  observes  the  Latin  and 
Homan  armies.  Beautiful  scenery  toward  Ghenssano 
(Fatta),  3  M.  from  Albano,  whence  one  overiooks 
the  crystalline  Lake  ofNemi,  2}  M.  around,  and  300  It. 
deep;  m  an  extinct  crater.     Ovid  speaks  of  this  lake 


368  FRASCATI.  —  TnOLI. 

which  was  called  the  Mirror  of  Diana,  from  a  temple 
of  the  goddess  on  its  shore.  Here  Tiberius  haa  ft 
splendid  vessel  afloat. 

Fiasoatl  {Londra;  Frascati),  35  M.  by  rly.  from 
Rome  (fares,  2  1.  70  c,  2  1. 15  c,  1  1.  30  c),  is  on  » 
foot-hill  of  the  Alban  Mts.,  in  a  very  healthy  climate* 
It  has  many  fine  old  16th- century  villas,  among  which 
see  Aldobrandini,  with  fine  fountains  and  oak  groves; 
MUeoniert  (1550).  with  many  pictures  and  pretty- 
gardens  ;  ItufflneUa,  now  owned  by  Prince  Lancelotti; 
JioHdraaone,  now  a  Jesuits'  school;  and  Piccolominiy 
where  £aronius  lived.  A  shaded  road  leads  hence  to 
Tosculum,  founded  by  Ulysses's  son  Selegonus,  the 
birthplace  of  Cato,  and  favorite  residence  of  Cicero.  It 
held  out  valiantly  against  Hannibal ;  but  was  destroyed 
by  a  papal  Roman  army  in  1191.  See  Roman  amphi" 
iheatrcy  recently  excavated  Villa  of  Cicero^  reservoir, 
Camaldeli  Cojivent,  and  lofty  Citadel  (2,218  ft.  high), 
with  magnificent  view.  3  M.  distant,  by  a  forest-roaa, 
is  Grotta  Ferrata,  a  Greek  Basihan  monasteiy 
(founded  1002),  witli  famous  frescos  by  Domenichino. 
Hence  a  guide  will  lead  in  IJ  hrs.  to  *Rocca  di  Paya 
and  Monte  Cavo.  4|  M.  distant  is  Marino,  an  old 
Orsini  fortress  on  Alban  Mts.,  captured  in  1424  (and 
still  held)  by  the  Colonnas.  Good  jfictures  in  the  3 
cbs.  3  M.  hence  is  rly.-stat.,  35  min.  (21.,  IJl.,  11.) 
from  Rome.  Pleasant  road  also  to  Castel  Gandolfo 
and  Albano. 

TiToli  (Pace;  Begina ;  Sibilla)  is  25  M.  from 
Rome  by  rly.  (return  fares,  4  1.  55  c. ,  3 1.  20  c. ,  3 1. 5c.) 
or  carriage  (l-horse,  15  1.:  2-horse,  201),  passing  near 
Graito  of  Cermra.  This  was  the  ancient  Tibur,  founded 
5  ceaturies  l)ef ore  Rome,  and  conquered  by  Ciamillus, 
B.  c.  880.  Here  dwelt  Maecenas,  Horace,  Propertius, 
and  Catullus  ;  and  here  Zenobia  passed  her  captivity. 


ITALY.  369 

Augustus,  Hadrian,  aud  otber  emperors  and  nobles  had 
|)alaces  here.  It  is  now  a  huddled  town  of  7,000 
inhab.  1  M.  out  is  Hadrian's  Villa  (^et  permit  at 
Palazzo  Braschi,  Borne),  once  the  finest  m  the  world, 
with  many  imposing  buildings,  covering  several  square 
M.  It  was  destroyed  by  Totila's  Goths,  and  only  the 
most  fragmentary  ruins  remain.  The  beautiful  circular 
Corinthian  l^emple  of  the  Sibyl  (probably  dedicated 
to  Hercules  or  Vesta)  and  the  oblong  Ionic  temple 
adjacent  (now  ch.  of  S.  Giorgio)  command  a  fine  view 
of  the  Falls.  Path  leads  to  Grotto  of  Neptune  and 
Sirens'  Grotto.  The  chief  fall  is  330  ft.  high;  the 
smaller  falls  are  Le  CascateUe,  Many  other  fine  bits  of 
scenery  here,  and  lloman  ruins ;  also,  Villa  Brasfihi, 
overlooking  Campagna,  and  Filla  d'  Este  (1549),  witk 
very  lovely  gardens  and  ancient  frescos.  Many  charm, 
ing  excursions  hence  among  Sabine  Mts.  Monte 
Gennaro  (4,800  ft.)  may  be  ascended  in  6  hrs.  bv 
bridle-path.  It  is  11^  M.  from  Tivoli  to  Valley  of 
Licenza,  site  of  Horace's  Sabinum  farm.  23  M. 
(5  hrs.)  up  Anio  Valley  is  Subiaco  (X«  Pemiee),  a 
mediseval  castle-crowned  town,  built  on  remains  of 
Nero's  villa,  and  with  very  famous  monasteries  of  S. 
Scolastica  and  ^S'.  Benedetto,  a  vast  group  of  cloisters 
on  site  where  St.  Benedict  lived, 

Palestriaa,  22  M.  from  Rome  (daily  omnibus),  12 
from  Frascati,  4^  from  Valmontone  stat.,  was  the 
ancient  Frteneste  ;  conquered  by  Caraillus  (b.c.  380)  ; 
headquarters  of  Marius;  favorite  lloman  summer- 
resort  (see  Horace) ;  scene  of  terrible  wars  between 
Colonnas  and  popes  in  Middle  Ages ;  and  since  1630 
the  property  of  the  Barberini.  See  Cyclopean  wallj, 
immense  but  shapeless  Roman  ruins,  Barberini  Pal- 
ace, Colonna  fortress  (1322),  and  vast  view  over 
Campagna. 

24 


570  OSTIA.  —  NAPLES. 

Bracciano  (Fiva),  24  M.  from  Bx)me  (omnibus 
alternate  days,  in  6  hrs. ;  41.),  has  a  wonderful  old 
Gothic  castle  of  lava,  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  greatlj 
admired.  It  was  built  by  the  Orsini,  and  is  now- 
owned  by  Odescalchi.  Fine  view  from  tower.  Adja. 
cent  lake  is  20  M.  around,  and  abounds  in  eels  and 
malaria. 

Oatia,  14  M.  from  Rome,  near  mouth  of  Tiber, 
once  had  80,000  inhab.,  but  now  ha^  scarcely  100. 
The  Saracens  were  terribly  defeated  here  about  a.d.  850. 
See  S>  Aurea,  Episcopal  Palace,  and  tombs,  tenaples, 
and  baths  of  adjacent  i-uined  city  and  seaport  of  classic 
age.  2  M.  hence  is  very  interesting  Castel  Fusatw,  a 
Chigi  stronghold  against  pirates,  1|  M.  from  sea,  in 
great  pine-forest. 

There  are  many  other  deeply  interesting  excursions 
near  Rome.  See  Hare's  Days  near  Uonie^  Baedeker's 
Central  Italy,  Murray,  Hachette,  or  Cook. 

Naples,  Baia,  Pompeii,   Sorrento,   Capri. 

Express  trains,  Rome  to  Naples,  5 J  hrs.  (fares,  34J 1. , 
23J  1.);  ordinary  trains,  9  hrs.  (fares  lower).  Some 
travellers  go  from  Rome  to  Civita  Vecchia  by  rly. .  and 
thence  by  steamer,  for  the  sake  of  the  lovely  view  en- 
tering the  Bay  of  Naples. 

Paris  to  Naples,  9oia  Turin,  Florence,  and  Rome,  in 
53  hrs.  (fares,  246J  fr.,  308  fr.  10  c). 

Marseilles  to  Naples  by  sea,  181  f r.,  138  fr.  Naples 
is  a  convenient  point  of  departure  for  Mediterranean 
I)orts.  Steamships  sail  frequently  for  Alexandria, 
Tunis.  Cagliari,  Messina,  Palermo,  Gtenoa,  Leghorn, 
and  Marseilles. 

Hotels. — Hotd  Royal  des  Jftrangers;  Metropole ; 
Oran  Bretagna  y  Grand  Hdtel;  Hdtel  du  Vemve;  J)e 
la  Rimera  ;  Bristol ;  Parker's  ;  Vittoria  ;  Be  Rome; 
De  Geneve;  WasJdngton;  Hotel  deVUnivers. 

Baggage  is  sometimes  examined  on  aiTiving  at 

aples,  by  excise  officcrs.but  the  formalities  are  slight. 


NAPLES.  371 

Conveyanoes.  —  Hotel-omnibns,  1}  1. ;  public  omni- 
bos,  ^  c.  Baggage,  20  c.  a  piece.  2-hone  cab,  1 1.  40  c. ; 
l-bone  cab,  70  c.  Small  boats  from  steamship  to  sbore,  1 1. 
for  each  person,  with  or  without  baggage.  Pay  no  attention 
to  extortionate  demands,  with  which  boatmen  usually  begin. 
Beware  of  beggars,  and  people  who  offer  their  services. 

1  rly.  runs  N.  E.  (124  M. ;  5-6  hrs.)  from  Naples  across 
Italy,  hj  Benevento  to  Foggia,  on  the  Adriatic,  connecting 
there  with  rly.  to  Brindisi  and  Taranto,  on  S.,  and  Ancona 
and  N.  Italy.     By  this  route  it  is  19-20  hrs.  to  Bologna. 

The  rly,  from  Rome  to  Naples  passes  Velletri,  an 
ancient  Volscian  town  (16,500  inhab.),  with  fine  old 
Cathedral;  Sgurgola^  ^\  M.  from  Anag;nl,  a  famous 
old  papal  town;  Ferentino  stat.,  3  M.  from  Ferentino, 
a  venerable  Hemician  hill-town,  with  castle,  Cathedral, 
and  huge  polygonal  walls ;  Frosinone  stat.,  2  J  M.  from 
beautifully  situated  hill-town  of  Frosinone,  and  9-10  M. 
from  very  curious  old  Alatri,  with  Cyclopean  walls; 
Ceprano  stat.,  2^  M.  from  Ceprano,  and  the  stat.  for 
Falls  of  the  Liris  and  Cicero's  Villa ;  Aquino,  birth- 
place of  Emperor  Pescennius  Niger,  Juvenal,  and 
Thomas  Aquinas ;  Cassino  (or  S.  Germano),  a  busy 
town,  with  Roman  amphitheatre,  Varro's  Villa,  and 
tombs  (a  climb  of  1 J  hr.  leads  to  the  world-renowned 
and  magnificent  Benedictine  monastery  of  Monte 
CasBino,  with  hospitable  monks  and  peerless  views)  ; 
TeanOy  with  a  great  castle  and  Roman  remains ;  Capua, 
a  town  of  14,000  inhab.,  in  broad  plain  of  Campania 
Felice,  with  noble  basilica,  fortress,  triumphal  arch,  and 
ancient  chs. ;  and  8.  Maria,  on  site  of  ancient  Capua, 
with  amphitheatre  for  100,000  persons,  and  other  Ro- 
man ruins.  Tlie  rly.  runs  thence  over  the  vast  and 
populous  plain  of  the  Terra  di  Lavoro,  to  Naples. 

Naples  is  a  city  of  600,000  inhab.,  with  little  of 
architectural  or  antiquarian  interest,  but  blest  with  9 


372  NAPLES.  —  CHIAJA. 

superb  situation,  mild  climate,  and  beautiful  environs. 
It  is  built  on  the  amphitheatrical  slopes  of  hiUs,  shelter- 
ing it  from  the  N.  wind,  and  nearly  bisected  by  the 
abrupt  ridge  of  S.  Elmo  and  Fizzofalcone.  Its  idew 
includes  a  semicircle  of  azure  sea,  the  villages  around 
the  bay,  and  many  picturesque  hills.  The  busy  and 
crowded  Via  Roma,  still  popularly  called  by  its  old 
name  of  Via  Toledo,  runs  N.  IJ  M.  from  Palazzo 
Beale,  near  the  harbor.    The  vast  and  interesting 

National  Muaeum  (open  daily,  9-3, 1 1.,  children, 
i  1. ;  no  fees  allowed ;  free,  Sun.  and  Thurs.V  is  in  old 
Spanish  cavalry-barracks  (1586),  occupied  by  Univer' 
sity,  16l5i»1780.    There  is  no  good  catalogue}.     See 
1^600  ancient  mural  paintings,  from  Pompeii,  etc. ; 
epigraphic  collection ;  long  range  of  rooms  with  Egyp- 
tian and  Etruscan  antiquities ;  finest  existing  coUection 
of  ancient  bronzes,  including  Dancing  Faun,  Narcissus, 
Mercury,  Sleeping  Faun,  and  bust  of  Seneca ;  18,000 
small  bronze  objects  from  Pompeii,  etc. ;  immense  collec- 
tions of  ancient  glass,  terra-cotta,  Cumaean  antiquities,  . 
numismatic  objects ;  many  marble  and  bronze  statues, 
including  Farnese  Bull  (restored  by  Michael  Angelo), 
Faruese  Hercules,  Venus,  Wounded  Gladiator,  Ocean, 
Flora,  Nile,  Farnese  Juno,  JEschines,  Balbus ;  famous 
mosaics  of  Battle  of  Issus  and  Triumph  of  Bacchus ; 
great  collection  of  papyri  MSS.,  from  Herculaneum; 
7  rooms  full  of  Greek  and  Italian  vases;  and  gems, 
jewels,  food,  and  silver  plate  from  Pompeii.    The  Pic- 
ture Gallery  has  800  paintings,  Neapolitan,  Tuscan, 
Bolognese,  Roman,  Venetian,  German,  and  Flemish, 
including  several  by  Eaphael,  Titian,  and  Correggio. 
The  Ubrary  (open  8-2)  has  200,000  vols.,  4,000 
MSS.,  and  many  valuable  autographs. 

The  Chiaja,  seat  of  chief  hotels  for  foreigners,  is  a 
narrow  strip  between  the  S.  Elmo  and  Posilippo  ridges 


NAPLES.  375 

and  the  harbor,  with  pretty  parks  (music  at  evening) 
along  waterside.  On  E.,  projecting  into  the  sea,  is  the 
black  and  gloomy  Castel  dell'  Ovo  (1154),  often 
besieged,  and  now  a  prison.  Thence  Strada  S.  Luciee 
leads  to  Arsenal,  through  busy  and  interesting  scenes* 
Overhead  is  hill  of  Pizzofalcone,  over  which  one  may 
pass,  by  the  lion-guarded  Victory  Column  of  the  martyrs 
for  liberty,  and  the  Miranda  Palace,  to  the  centre  of 
the  city. 

The  Palazzo  Reale  (its  porter  gives  permits  to  all 
the  Neapolitan  royal  palaces)  was  built  in  1600,  by 
order  of  Philip  III.  of  Spain,  and  rebuilt  in  1837-41.  It 
is  554  ft.  long,  with  grand  staircase,  throne-room,  and 
many  fine  old  paintings  and  carvings,  and  view  of  harbor 
from  garden.  Opposite,  across  handsome  Piazza  del 
Flebiscito^  is  S.  Francesco  di  Paola,  a  copy  of  Roman 
Pantheon,  with  30  marble  Corinthian  columns  support- 
ing dome,  altar  covered  with  jasper  and  lapis  lazuli,  and 
many  modem  pictures.  Near  by,  see  Palace  of  Prince 
of  Salemo  (now  the  Prefecture),  Poresteria  Palace,  and 
Canova's  equestrian  statues  of  the  Bourbons,  Charles 
III.  and  Perdinaad  I.  Alongside  Palazzo  Eeale  is 
Theatre  of  S.  Carlo  (1737),  one  of  the  largest  in  thcv 
world.  See  public  scribes  in  arcades ;  and  statues  of 
Horse-Tamers,  before  palace-gardens*  The  great  Cas- 
tel Nuovo,  built  by  Charles  of  Anjou  in  1283,  and 
enlarged  in  1442,  1546,  and  1735,  was  the  home  of 
the  Anjou  and  Aragon  sovereigns,  and  the  Spanish 
viceroys.  See  beautiful  Triumphal  Arch  (1470) ,  armory , 
and  ch.  of  S.  Sebastiano,  with  very  famous  picture. 
Close  by,  see  Arsenal  (1577)  ;  Porto  Militare,  with 
Italian  iron-clads  ;  busy  Porto  Grande  —  the  shipping 
harbor;  and  Molo,  a  long  breakwater,  with  battery  and 
light-house  (ascend  this,  for  view).  Across  the  square 
before  Castle  stands  handsome  Municipal  Palace 


874  NAPLES.  —  UNIVERSITY. 

S.  Giacomo  degli  Spagnuoli  (1540)  has  splendid 
mausoleum  of  Spanish  Viceroy,  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo. 
Near  by  is  beautiful  fountain,  erected  in  1695  by  Duke 
of  Medina  Celi;  also,  Incoronata  ch.  (1352),  with  in. 
teresting  Giottesque  frescos ;  and  Palazzo  Fmdi,  with 
picture-gallery. 

The  Monte  Oliveto  Benedictine  Monastery  (1411), 
on  Via  di  RomUy  is  now  a  market.    Here  Tasso  dwelt 
in  1588.     In  ch.  see  many  notable  old  tombs  and  pic- 
tures.    In  the  rear,  see  8^  Maria  la  Nnova  (1268 ; 
restored  in  1596),  with  famous  frescos  and  tombs ;  and 
Poat-0£Bce,  in  beautiful  old  Palazzo  Chravina  (1500). 
Farther  along  Via  di  Roma,  see  Palazzo  Maddaloni  (now 
a  bank),  witn  richly  frescoed  hall ;  and  Palazzo  Anffri 
{ 1773),  once  Garibaldi's  headquarters.   Strada S.  Trinita 
leads  to  r.  towards  Oesu  Nuova  ch.  (1584),  with  many 
frescos  (opposite  is  refectory  of  S.  CMara,  with  Giot- 
tesque frescos);  S.Chiara  (1310),  with  burial-chapd  of 
Bourbons,   splendid  monument  of  Robert  the  Wise 
(1343),  pulpit  on  4  lions,  and  Madonna  by  Giotto; 
lofty  and  imposing  S.  Domenico  (1285),  on  a  square 
between  palaces,  and  containing  27princely  chapels, 
rich  in  Itenaissance  art,  altar  of  Florentine  mosaic, 
tombs  of   the  Aragonese  sovereigns,  and  of   many 
nobles  and  prelates,  banner  and  sword  (and  tomb)  of 
Marquis  of  Pescara  (Vittoria  Colonna*s  husband),  and 
many   pictures ;    cell    and    lecture-room   of   Thomas« 
Ajumas  (1272) ;  Chapel  of  S.  Severo  (1590),  crowded 
with  decoration,  and  containing  remarkable  scalptures 
of  Man  in  the  Net  and  Christ  in   Winding-Sheet ; 
SS.  Angelo  e  Nilo  (1385) ;   Univemlty  (1224),  in 
old  Jesuit  College,  with  5  faculties,  and  very  good 
library  (open  9-3)  •  S*  Severim  e  Sosio,  with  notable 
tombs  and  frescos,  and  beautiful  cloisters  in  rear  (adja- 
cent Benedictine  monastery  has  priceless  archives  of 


NAPLES.  375 

Naples,  40,000  parchmeuts,  begmning  a.d.  703) ;  Pa- 
lazzo Saniangelo  (1466)^  with  picture-^ery ;  Cas- 
tello  Capuano  (1231),  once  home  of  JBLohenstaufen 
kings,  and  seat  (after  1540)  of  Spanish  and  present 
law-courts ;  and  Capuan  Oate  (restored  in  1535)^ 
a  noble  piece  of  architecture.  The  Cathedra],  not 
far  from  the  Gate,  was  built  1272-1314,  on  site  of 
Temple  of  Neptune.  It  is  a  basilica,  with  shrine  and 
tomb  of  St.  Januarius,  many  frescos,  and  tombs  of  2 
popes,  2  kings  of  Hungary,  etc.  Adjacent  is  S.  Besti- 
tuta^  a  basilica  with  Corinthian  columns,  and  baptistery 
attributed  to  Constantine  (a.d.  333) ;  also,  magnificent 
Chapel  of  St.  Januarius  (1608),  rich  in  gold  and  sil- 
ver, precious  stones,  and  other  adornments,  and  en- 
shrimng  the  blood  of  the  saint.  1^  M.  beyond  Capuau 
Gate  are  the  great  cemeteries,  the  New,  with  Doric  ch. 
Gothic  monastery,  and  102  chapels  ;  the  Old,  with  365 
closed  vaults  for  tie  burial  of  the  poor  ;  and  the  Pi'ot- 
estant,  with  many  English  and  American  graves. 

Between  Castello  Capuano  and  harbor,  see  S8.  An- 
numiataiytbl)  \  Porta  Nolana;  the  huge  Castdlo  del 
Carmine  (1484),  now  a  barrack  and  prison  ;  8,  Maria 
del  Carmine,  with  tomb  and  noble  statue  of  King 
Couradin;  Piazza  del  Mercato  (where  Conradin  waa 
executed,  in  1268),  with  3  fountains ;  Carmtne  Gate, 
with  2  massive  towers ;  and  a  very  extensive  quarter, 
with  scores  of  narrow  and  sinuous  streets,  crowded 
with  picturesque  Neapolitans,  mafeironi-pedlers,  story, 
tellers,  fishermen,  etc.  S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  (1344), 
N.  of  Cathedral,  has  splendid  mausoleum  of  King 
Ladiskus  (1414).  Fartlier  N.  are  Botanical  Gardens 
and  vast  Poor-Mouse.  Between  Cathedral  Mnd  Via  di 
Roma,  see  S.  Filippo  Neri  (1592),  rich  in  paintmgs ; 
S.  Paolo  Maggiore  (1691),  in  whose  cloisters  are  many 
ancient  Roman  columns;    S,  Lorenzo   (l:iS66)y  with 


376         CASTEL  SANT*  ELMO. 

many  frescos  and  fine  cloisters  (Petrarch  and  Boccaccio 
have  been  here) ;  the  Gotbic  8.  Pietro  a  MaieUa  (1316), 
■with  monastery  adjacent,  now  a  school  of  miisic^  where 
Bellini  was  taught,  and  Mercadante  was  director. 

Opposite  Museum  stands  Ginncuio  Vitiorio  Emanuele 
(1757),  with  26  statues,  and  a  statue  of  Dante  in  front. 
From  8th-century  ch.  of  S.  Gennaro,  enter  the  Cata- 
combs (fee,  11.),  excavated  by  ancient  ChristiaDs, 
and  much  broader  and  higher  than  those  at  Rome. 
Myriads  of  dead  have  been  buried  here.  Farther  out 
is  Capodimonte  Palace  (fee,  11.),  built  for  the 
Bourbon  kings  (1738-1839),  with  long  lines  of  state- 
Tooms,  many  pictures,  rich  furniture,  a  large  garden, 
and  lovely  views,  f  M.  distant  is  the  Observatory,  on 
far- vie  wing  crest  of  Capodimonte. 

Castel  Bant  Bimo  (1343),  876  ft.  above  the  bay, 
is  reached  by  a  street  from  the  Museum.  It  is  a  vast 
and  ponderous  fortress  (now  military  prison)  overlook- 
ing the  city  and  sea.  Close  by  is  old  Carthusian 
monastery  of  8.  Martino  (now  part  of  National  Mu- 
fieum ;  open  9-5 ;  1 1.),  built  in  1325.  See  museum  of 
majolica,  ivories,  etc.;  very  beautiful  cloisters,  sur- 
rounded by  white-marble  columns,  and  adorned  with 
statues ;  and  magnificent  ch.,  lined  with  choice  marbles 
and  mosaics,  and  adorned  with  famous  paintings. 
Exquisite  views  from  this  monastenr. 

BxoanionB  from  Naplas. — Beyond  the  Chiaja 
and  Villa  Nazionale,  with  their  statues,  temples,  and 
aquarium,  the  Mergallina  extends  along  the  shore, 
under  Posilippo,  with  beautiful  sea-views,  and  by  nu- 
merous villas,  and  the  insulated  17th-century  PaUee 
4/  Donna  Anna  (now  in  ruins) .  Near  the  Chiaja  stands 
ancient  ch.,  in  which  is  the  great  mausoleum  of  the 
poet  Sannazaro.  The  road  W.  from  the  Chiaja  leads 
'  hrough  Orotta  di  Posilippo,  a  well-lighted  tunnel  m 


ITALY.  377 

the  rock,  iM.Mong,  20-90  ft.  high,  30  ft.  wide,  cut 
through  hy  Augustus,  and  mentioned  by  Seneca.  Orer 
its  E.  end  is  so-called  Tomb  of  Virgil  (^  1.),  a  Roman 
tomb  with  recesses  for  uras.  Petrarch  and  King 
Hobert  visited  this  spot,  and  planted  laurel.  Near  by 
was  VirgiVs  villa,  where  he  wrote  the  Eclogues  an& 
Georgics.  Road  through  tunnel  leads  to  Qrotto  of 
Sejanus  (I  l.)>  ^  tunnel  cut  through  the  rocky  ridge 
by  Nerva  (b.c.  37),  and  repaired  by  Honorins  (a.d.  400). 
It  is  f  M.  long,  and-  higher  and  wider  than  Posilippo 
tunnel.  Near  oy,  see  many  remains  of  villas  of  Lucul- 
lus,  Pollio,  and  other  Roman  lords.  Also,  on  islet  of 
Ifisida,  site  of  villa  where  Cicero  visited  Brutus 
(B.C.  44),  after  he  had  killed  Caesar;  and  afterwards  of 
Queen  Johanna  II.'s  villa  (15th  century).  The  Lake 
of  Anagno  (a  crater;  now  drained)  is  f  M.  from 
Faorigroitm  (where  see  tomb  of  Leopardi,  in  ch.) ; 
and  near  by  are  singular  ancient  baths  of  sulphurous 
gas;  also.  Grotto  del  Cane,  famous  for  carbonic-acid, 
whose  effects  are  tried  on  unhappy  dogs.  It  is  6  M. 
from  Naples  over  this  road  to  Possuoli,  on  site  of 
Greek  colony  conquered  by  Rome,  and  later  chief  port 
of  Italy,  and  depot  of  Oriental  trade.  Here  Sylla 
died ;  Hadrian  was  buried ;  St.  Paul  sojourned  7  days ; 
and  Cicero  had  a  villa.  See  remnants  of  Temples  of 
Serapis  (formerly  very  splendid),  Neptune  (pillars 
rising  from  sea),  and  ikiQ Nymphs;  many  Roman  tombs ; 
Piscina  Grande^  a  great  reservoir ;  Capuchin  monastery 
(1580) ;  Roman  quc^,  now  called  Bridge  of  Caligula ; 
Cathedral,  with  tomb  of  Pergolesi ;  and  Amphitheatre 
(\  \X  seating  30,000,  where  Nero  gave  gladiatorial 
comoats  before  the  King  of  Armenia,  and  St.  Januariu9 
was  exposed  to  the  lions.  Near  by,  see  Solfatara,  a 
low  crater  with  warm  earth,  hot  alum  springs,  and 
many  fissures  whence  gases  rise  (last  eruption  of  lav^ 


378  BAIA. — CVMJE. 

m  1198) ;  and  MojUe  Nuovo,  a  volcanic  hill  (now  \in^ 
jards)  thrown  np  in  1538.  To  tlie  W.  lies  Laig 
LucrinuSy  whence  the  Romans  obtained  their  best  oys- 
ters, and  the  Neapolitans  get  choice  fish.  Lake  A.ver- 
nuB,  a  picturesque  crater-pond,  \\  M.  around,  amid 
chestnut  and  oran^  groves,  was  held  to  be  the  entrance 
to  the  infernal  regions,  until  Augustus  made  it  a  harbor 
by  cutting  a  canal  to  the  bay.  The  fabled  entrance  to 
Ilades  is  shown  in  adjacent  Grotto  of  the  Sib^l  (1 1.), 
a  tunnel  840  ft.  long.  The  Grotta  delta  Face,  i  M. 
long,  leads  from  W.  shore  towards  Cumae,  cutting 
through  intervening  ridge. 

The  JSathso/Nero  are  long  rock-passages,  containing 
fiiot  springs,  in  whose  waters  eggs  may  be  cooked. 

Bala  {Reghm)  was  the  most  magnificent  of  summer- 
resorts  in  time  of  Cicero,  Augustus,  and  Hadrian^  and 
was  praised  by  Horace.    The  Saracens  destroyed  it ; 
and  tne  Spanish  viceroys  built  a  castle  and  light-house 
dn  the  site.     Here  are  massive  ruins  of  temples  of 
Venus,  Diana,  and  Mercury,  villas  of  Julius  Caesar, 
Nero,  and  Hortensius,  a  splendid  Roman  reservoir,  and 
other  remnants  of  antiquity.    To  the  S.  is  Cape  IC- 
«eno,  near  site  of   great   Roman  naval  station  of 
Misenum,  and  commanding  a  superb  view.    1  M.  from 
Baia  is  Lake  ofFusaro,  IJ  M.  N.  of  which  are  rains  of 
great  Cnmse,  which  was  founded  by  Greeks  (b.c.  1050), 
and  had  profound  influence  in  Ita^,  founding  Naples, 
giving  the  Sibylline  books  to  Ilome,  receiving  the 
Tarquins,  defeating  the  Etruscans,  and  Anally  con- 
qneml  by  the  Samnites  and  Romans.     The  Goths 
restored  it,  but  the  Moslems  destroj^ed  the  town ;  and 
6  centuries  i^o  the  Neapolitans  annihilated  it,  as  a  dec 
of  niiates.     Near  by,  &ee  Acropolis,  with  fortifications 
and  noble  views ;  half-buried  Amphitheatre  ;  fragmenta 
of  old  temples;  and  huee  brick  arch  of  drco  FeUee, 
64  ft.  high. 


VESUVIUS.  —  HERCULANEUM.  379 

Pozzuoli,  Baia,  Cumse,  etc.,  may  be.  seen  in  1  day 
by  carriage  (25  1. ;  1-horse  carriage,  10-12  1.),  Take 
gttide  from  Naples  (5 1.),  to  escape  local  annoyances. 

Mount  Vesuvius  is  about  4,000  ft.  high,  and 
30  M.  around,  isolated  on  the  Plain  of  Campania,  and 
with  80,000  people  living  in  its  chestnut  valleys.  Li 
A.D.  79  it  had  a  terrible  volcanic  eruption  (described 
by  Pliny  and  Tacitus),  since  which  60  or  more  have 
occurred,  entailing  vast  losses  of  Ufe  and  the  annilii- 
.  lation  of  many  villages  and  cities.  Enormous  losses 
were  caused  by  the  eruption  of  1872.  Of  a  crowd 
which  watched  it^  beginning,  20  persons  were  swept 
away  and  destroyed  by  the  outbursting  lava.  The  cable 
roaa  now  obviates  much  of  the  labor  formerly  neces- 
sary in  ascent.  Beautiful  view  from  Observatory;  and 
from  summit  you  can  see  Naples,  Baia,  Ischia,  Capri, 
the  Campanian  plain,  the  Apennines,  and  a  vast  area  of 
sea.  When  Vesuvius  is  quiet  the  crater  may  be  entered . 

Herculaneum,  founded  by  Hercules,  and  later  a 
town  of  Roman  villas,  was  buried  by  an  eruption  of 
Vesuvius,  A.p.  79,  and  discovered  in  1719,  when  a 
well  was  being  dug.  Since  then,  excavations  have 
shown  that  40-90  ft.  beneath  the  present  town  of  Resina 
is  a  large  and  splendid  ancient  city,  i^iose  statues, 
mural  paintings,  papyri,  etc.,  are  adormlig  the  mu- 
seums. It  waa  richer  than  Pompeii,  but  is  much  more 
deeply  buried,  and  under  a  more  impenetrable  covering. 
Little  has  yet  been  excavated,  but  that  little  should  be 
seen  (2 1.  for  guide  and  torch).  The  residences  and 
shops  excavated  in  1868  are  very  interesting;  the 
theatre,  though  immense  in  size,  is  too  dark  to  be  well 
seen. 

Pompeii  {Hotel  Diomede)  is  nearly  1  hr.  from 
Naples  (5  trains  daily ;  fares,  2 1.  75  a,  1 1.  90  c, 
11.  10  c),  by  riy.  passing  through  Portici  (12,000 


380  POMPEII. 

jihab.)  ;  Resina,  near  La  Favorita,  royal  cbateau,  and 
at  foot  of  Vesuvius ;  and  Torre  del  Greco,  swept  by  4 
streams  of  lava  within  300  years.  Beautiful  views  of 
bay  and  volcano.  Read  about  Pompeii  before  going 
there.  Near  Pompeii  stat.  is  entrance  to  ruins  (21.; 
guide  furnished ;  no  gratuity ;  stay  as  long  as  you  like). 
Pompeii  was  a  Greek  commercial  city  (b.c.  400-500), 
whicn  was  subjugated  by  Rome,  and  became  a  favorite 
resort  of  her  nobles  and  emperors  (with  25,000  inhab.). 
It  was  overthrown  by  earthquake,  a.d.  63;  rebuilt 
immediately ;  and  in  79  buried  under  20  ft.  of  ashes 
from  Vesuvius,  when  2,000  citizens  lost  their  lives. 
Excavations  were  begun  in  1748,  and  are  still  going 
on.  The  walls  are  \\  M.  around,  with  8  gates.  The 
streets  are  14-24  ft.  wide,  paved  with  deeply  rutted 
lava  blocks,  with  stepping-stones  and  fountams  at  cor- 
ners. The  concrete  or  brick  lower  stories  of  houses 
remain;  the  other  stories  were  burnt.  The  shops, 
taverns,  bomes,  street-notices,  etc.,  Are  very  interesting. 
Note  Temple  of  Venus;  Forums  where  main  streets 
converged,  with  Temple  of  Jupiter,  Prison,  BaHlica, 
Triumphal  Arch,  Public  Granary,  Temple  of  Merctirif, 
beautiful  Chalcidicum,  Town  Hall,  Temple  of  Augustus, 
See  House  of  Wild  Boar  in  Street  of  Abundance ; 
Triangular  Forum;  the  two  Theatres;  barracks  of  the 
soldiers;  House  of  Sculptor ;  StabuB  Gate;  Temple  of 
Isis;  House  of  Holconius;  vast  amphitheatre,  which 
seated  20,000.  Thence  visit  Stabian  Therma,  Balcony 
House,  Houses  of  Siricus  and  Marcus  Lucretius,  of  the 
Chase,  of  Ariadne,  of  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany,  of 
Figured  Capitals,  of  Black  Walls;  Temple  of  Fortune; 
Public  Baths  ;  House  of  Faun,  in  Fortune  street ;  House 
of  Anchor,  of  Tragic  Poet  (which  Bulwer  describes  in 
Last  Days  of  Pompeii)  ;  the  Fuller's  Shop;  Great  and 
Little  Fountains;    House  of  Pansa,  of  Labyrinth^  of 


CASERTA.  —  SORRENTO.  38 1 

CastQT  and  FollnXy  of  Centaur,  of  Meleager,  Adonis, 
Apollo;  Academy  of  Music ;  Bake-home;  Soap-shop; 
Barber's  Shop  ;  Custom  House  ;  Street  of  Tombs  ;  and 
Villa  of  Diomedes  (where  several  bodies  were  found), 
beyond  Herculaneuin  Gate.  There  are  many  curiosities 
in  the  museums,  especially  casts  of  the  bodies  found  in 
the  ruins.  You  may  ride  hence  on  horseback  (\\  hrs.) 
to  cairn  of  stones  on  Vesuvius ;  whence  climb  (l  nr.  on 
foot)  to  summit  (guide  and  horse,  10 1.). 

Caaerta  (Fittoria),  about  20  M.  from  Naples,  on 
rly.  to  Rome,  has  a  maguificent  Royal  Palace  (1752), 
834  ft.  long  and  wide,  and  134  high,  with  colonnaded 
courts,  famous  gardens  and  cascades,  beautiful  views, 
and  sumptuous  apartments.  See  chapel,  highly  en- 
riched with  lapis  lazuli  and  gold ;  and  theatre,  with  16 
antique  Cormtliian  columns  of  African  marble. 

No  one  should  leave  Naples  without  having  visited 
Sorrento,  Amalfi,  and  Salerno.  Rly.  in  1  hr.  (3 1.  10  c, 
2  1.  15  c,  1 1.  25  c),  along  shore  of  bay,  to  Caatella- 
mare  {Hotel  Royal;  AnglaisY  a  famous  Neapolitan 
summer-resort  and  Italian  naval  station  (33,000  inhab.), 
near  overwhelmed  ruins  of  Stabise,  and  with  13th-ceu- 
tury  castle,  royal  chateau  of  Quisisana  (on  the  hill), 
and  Monte  S.  Angelo,  5,000  ft.  high,  with  superb  view 
(guide  and  donkey,  51.).  Here  also  are  famous  sul- 
phurous and  ferruginous  springs.  An  excellent  road 
(7|  M. ;  carriage,  5 1.)  between  the  mts.  and  Bay,  leads 
hence,  by  Vico  and  Meta,  and  a  delicious  paradise  of 
orange  and  olive  groves,  to  Sorrento  {Gran  Bretagna; 
jy  Angleterre ;  Tasso,  where  Tasso  was  bom,  1544; 
Siretta;  Filla  Nardi;  Tramontano),  an  ancient  seaport 
on  Bay  of  Naples,  famous  for  exquisite  scenei^,  and 
delightfully  cool  summer-climate  (it  faces  N.).  Quaint 
villages,  ancient  chs.,  natu*?l  curiosities,  villas  and 
convents,  glens  and  myrtle-gi'oves,  ro/rky  islets  and 


382  CAPRI.  —  ISCHIA. 

points,  make  this  region  Tery  charming.  Steamboats 
leave  Naples  (S.  Lucia)  at  9  a.m.,  daily,  for  Sorreuto 
(61. ;  retum-tickets,  101),  Capri  (81.;  return,  121.), 
and  Ischia.  Boat  from  Sorrento  to  Capri,  5  L,  in  2  hrs. 
(bad  trip  in  rough  weather). 

Capri  (Tiberio  and  Quisisana,  both  kept  by  English 
people;  Pagano,  at  landing  place),  the  •* Island  of 
€k)ats,"  is  4J  M.  long,  with  almost  unbroken  lines  of 
cliffs,  and  far-viewing  mts.  2,000  ft.  high.  There  are 
4,500  inhab.,  mostly  farmers  and  coral-fishers.  Au- 
gustus and  Tiberius  built  many  villas  and  palaces  here. 
In  1803  Capri  was  strongly  fortified  by  the  English; 
but  Murat  captured  it,  5  vears  later.  On  E.  see  ruins 
-af  ViUa  of  Tiberius,  and  the  cliff,  700  ft.  high, 
called  Salio  di  Tiberio,  whence  the  cruel  Emperor 
forced  his  victims  to  leap  into  the  sea.  Near  oy  is 
an  inn.  See  Natural  Arch ;  G~rotto  of  J^ithra^ ;  lofty 
village  of  Anacapri,  with  Barbarossa's  castle;  and 
Monte  SolarOy  with  superb  view.  The  most  celebrated 
of  the  caverns  is  the  Blue  Grotto,  106  by  80  ft.  in 
area,  and  40  ft.  high,  partly  filled  by  beautifully  azure 
sea- water,  and  lighted  and  entered  only  by  a  low  and 
narrow  aperture,  where  the  sea  beats  against  the  cliff 
(boat,  21.  for  2  persons;  1 1  for  each  additional).  The 
White,  Bed,  Green,  and  Stalactite  Grottos  are  also 
visited  bv  boat. 

Ischia  is  a  fertile  island  15  M.  around,  with  25,000 
inhab.,  devoted  to  vineyards  and  fisheries,  with  delight- 
ful summer-climate,  castle  of  Alfonso  I.  of  Aragon, 
lovely  village  of  Cammicdola  (damaged  in  1883  by 
eartliquake),and  grand  view  from  top  of  quiescent  vol- 
cano of  XSpomeo.  Ischia  has  been  ravaged  by  Romans, 
Saracens,  Pisans,  Neapolitans,  and  French;  and  was 
the  home  of  Vittoria  Colonna  and  Maria  of  Aragon. 
^Ht  from  Naples  in  2  hrs.  (fares,  5 1.,  3i  1.).     Pro- 


SALERNO.  —  PiESTUM.  —  AMALFI.        383 

Cida  is  a  neighboring  volcanic  island,  3  M.  long, 
with  14,000  inhab.,  originally  settled,  like  Capri  and 
Ischia,  by  Greeks. 

Salerno  {Fittoria  ;  D' Angleterre)  is  a  picturesque 
old  provincial  capital  (22,000  inhab.),  33i  M.  from 
Naples  (rly.  fares,  6 1.  15  c,  4i  1.,  2 1.  45  c),  fronting 
on  a  magnificent  bay,  with  fiae  quay,  1^  M.  long, 
irregular  mediaeval  streets,  ancient  Lombard  castle, 
and  delightfully  quaint  old  Cathedral  (1084),  with 
many  antique  columns,  sarcophagi,  and  mosaics,  and 
tombs  of  St.  Matthew,  Pope  Gregory  the  Great,  Mar- 

faret  of  Anjou,  etc.  The  University  was  very  ceie- 
rated  in  Middle  Ages  (see  Longfellow  s  Golden  Legend}, 
Palatum,  23  M.  from  Salerno,  by  railway  over 
dull  shore-plains,  founded  by  Greeks,  B.C.  600,  and 
destroyed  by  Saracens,  is  a  collection  of  the  finest 
Greek  ruins  in  existence  (out  of  Athens),  including 
Temple  of  Neptune,  189  by  84  ft.,  with  52  fluted  Doric 
columns ;  Temple  of  Ceres,  105  by  45  ft.,  with  34 
fluted  columns ;  and  Basilica,  177  by  80  ft.,  with  60 
columns;  well-preserved  travertine  town-walls,  3  M. 
around ;  amphitheatre,  Ex)man  temple,  street  of  Greek 
tombs.    Psestum  is  now  free  from  brigands. 

Amalfi  (Dei  Cappuccini ;  Luna),  a  lovely  village 
(7,000  inhab.),  where  a  great  mt.-gorge  opens  on  the  Gulf 
of  Salerno,  was  once  a  flourishing  commercial  republic, 
rivalling  Genoa  and  Pisa,  but  yielded  to  armies  of 
Naples  in  1131.  Near  the  Marina  quay  is  the  11th- 
century  Cathedral,  with  campanile  and  cloisters,  rich 
mosaics  and  Byzantine  bronze  doors,  and  tomb  of  St. 
Andrew.  Above  is  Capuchin  Monastery  (1212),  400  ft. 
above  sea,  with  handsome  cloisters  and  superb  views. 
1\  hr.'s  climb  leads  to  Ravello(once  30,000  mhab.,  now 
1,500),  with  magnificent  11th-century  cathedral  and 
Rufalo  Palace  (here  Pope  Adrian  IV.  and  Robert  the 


384  SICILY.  —  MESSINA. 

Wise  lived),  both  in  rich  Saracenic  architecture,  and 
other  notable  chs.  Amalfi  may  be  reached  from  Sorrento, 
by  boat  and  path,  in  5  hrs.  It  is  better  to  go  there 
from  Salerno  (li-2  hrs. ;  1-horse  carriage,  5-6  1.), 
over  one  of  the  noblest  roads  in  the  world,  through  6 
villages,  amid  vineyards  and  orange  and  lemon  groves, 
by  Charles  V.'s  anti-Saracenic  watch-towers,  with 
vonderful  sea^views  from  the  lofty  galleries  and  cliSs 
along  its  course. 

SicUy. 

This  beautiful  island  may  be  conveniently  visited 
from  Naples,  whence  steamships  run,  several  times 
weekly,  to  Palermo  and  Messina  (15-22  hrs. ;  fares, 
401.  60  c,  24  1.  60  c,  to  either  port),  passing  Capri, 
Stromboli,  and  the  Lipari  Isles.  Travellers  can  avoid 
sea-trip  by  uncomfortable  26  hrs.  (436  M.)  rly.  ride 
from  Naples  through  Salerno, '  Eboli;  Coaenea  ( Alaric's 
»!?rave),  with  18,000  inhab.;  Tiriolo;  lofty  MajUdeone, 
with  10.000  inhab. ;  Mtleto,  whence  Sicilian  mts.  are 
seen ;  PalnU;  and  SciUa,  where  1,500  persons  were 
killed  by  earthquake  of  1783  (and  near  Homer's 
dcylla);  to  Reggie,  a  very  beautiful  city  of  16,000 
inhab.    Ferry  hence  to  Messina  in  }  hr.  (J  1.). 

French  steamers  run  from  Marseilles  to  Palermo  in 
60  hrs.  Italian  boats  from  Genoa  to  Palermo  in  33 
hrs.  Steamers  run  around  Sicily  weekly,  from  Paler- 
mo, touching  at  chief  ports. 

Messina  {HMd  Belleme ;  Vittoria ;  Venezia; 
Trinaeria,  English  spoken), the  chief  commercial  town 
of  Sicily  (126,000  inhab.),  has  a  magnificent  situation 
on  an  amphitheatrical  slop^,  over  a  secure  and  well-for- 
tified harbor.  It  was  founded  by  the  Qreeks,  b.  c.  782; 
conquered  by  Samos,  Athens  (b.  c.  427),   Cartilage 


SICILY.  —  CATANIA.  386 

(396  and  270^  Mamertiues,  Rome,  Saracens,  Normans, 
English  rCoBur  de  Lion),  Spaniards,  French,  and  Ital- 
ians ;  ana  often  ravaged  by  nre,  plague,  and  earthquake. 
These  evil  days  have  left  it  but  few  antiquities.  The 
Norman  Cathedral  (1098)  has  26  antique  columns, 
mosaics,  royal  tombs,  and  sarcophagi ;  and  in  front  is 
splendid  MoiUorsoli  Fountain  ^1647-51).  See  Nor- 
man S.  Maria  del  Catalaui,  on  site  of  Temple  of  Nep- 
tune and  Moslem  mosque ;  University^  with  library 
and  picture-gallery  (open  9-4 ;  i  1-) ;  «.  Stefano,  with 
tombs  of  Frenchmen  killed  at  Sicilian  Vespers  ;  hand- 
some and  welLkept  business  streets;  and  ancient  for* 
tresses  (1540)  on  hei^lits,  with  beautiful  views. 

From  Messina  a  bnef  trip  may  be  made  to  Athens, 
French  steamers  weekly  in  48  hrs. 

Rly.  hence  in  3  hrs.  (60  M. ;  fares,  10}  1.,  7  1. 
55  c,  5  1.  40  c.) ;  by  Taormtna  (Giardini  stat.),  witli 
grand  ruins  of  a  Greek  theatre  (whence  famous  view), 
acropolis  and  castle,  and  ducal  palace;  across  lava 
fields  of  ^tna ;  and  by  Aci-Reale,  scene  of  adventures 
of  Polyphemus,  and  Acis  and  Galatea;  to 

Catania  (Catania;  Albergo  Centrale;  Oriental;  Du 
Globe),  the  handsomest  and  most  cultured  city  in  Sicily 
(107.000inhab.),  by  the  seaside,  at  foot  of  jEtna,  and 
rich  in  palaces  and  villas,  embowered  in  groves  of 
orange.  It  was  founded  by  Greeks,  b.  c.  780 ;  and 
conquered  by  Athens,  Carthage,  Rome,  the  Goths, 
Byzantines,  Saracens,  Germans,  and  Spaniards.  See 
Cathedral  (1091),  with  tombs  of  6  Aragonese  sover- 
eigns, and  of  St.  Agatha ;  8,  Careere,  with  relics ; 
cloisters  and  gardens,  museum,  library  of  suppressed 
Benedictine  Monastery  of  8.  Nicola,  than  which  there 
was  but  one  more  splendid  in  the  world  (all  its  monks 
were  of  noble  blood) ;  underground  remains  of  OrcMo* 
Roman  Theatre  and  Odeum  (fee,  21.);  Soman  Bat? 
25 


3S6  MOUNT  iETNA. —SYRACUSE. 

and  AmpJdtheatre  ;  Roman  Tombs ;  University  (1444). 
600  students ;  and  public  gardens  of  Villa  Bellini, 
with  Italian  statues. 

Mount  JBtna  (10,885  ft.  high)  may  be  ascended 
lience,  by  carriage  (2|  Lrs.),  to  Nicolosi  (20-25  1. 
tliere  and  back);  whence  8  hrs.  by  lodge  of  Casa 
Jnglese  to  summit  (guide,  10  I. ;  mule,  10  I.)  ;  return 
from  top  to  Catania,  8-9  Lrs.  It  is  best  to  sleep  at 
Casa  Inglese  (at  base  of  cone  of  crater),  and  reach 
summit  before  sunrise.  There  have  been  over  80  re- 
corded eruptions,  one  of  which  (1693)  destroyed  80,000 
lives.  In  1886  the  last  occurred.  The  view  includes 
all  Sicily  and  surrounding  seas,  Calabria,  Lipari 
Isles,  and  Malta.  Rly.  from  Catania  (64  M. ;  9 1,  85  c. , 
61.  90  c.,  4 1.95c.)  to 

Syracuse  {yittoria;  Sole;  Politt),  once  the  most 
important  city  in  the  Greek  world,  which  is  now  a  quiet 
mcldem  port  (2J*,600  inhab.),  with  very  charming  envi- 
rons, a  noble  harbor,  narrpw  and  crooked  'streets,  and 
beautiful  women  who  wear  picturesque  costumes.  1 1 
was  founded  by  Corinthians,  B.C.  734;  defeated  the 
Carthaginians  and  Etruscans;  i-epulsed  the  besieg^ing 
Athenian  fleet  and  army  (b.c.  414-13),  with  terrible 
losses ;  beat  off  fremient  attacks  from  Carthage ; 
entertained  JBschylus,  JPindar,  Simonides,  etc. ;  and  was 
defended  by  Archimedes  against  the  Romans  (b.c. 
214-12),  but  fell  and  was  nearly  annihilated.  Paul  and 
Harcian  preached  here.  It  has  since  been  ravaged  by 
Franks,  ^Byzantines,  Normans,  and  Spaniards ;  and  has 
never  recovered  from  the  Moslem  destruction  in  878. 
The  inhabitants  still  preserve  the  Greek  type.  See  Calhe- 
drat,  on  site  of  Temple  of  Minerva,  witli  remarkable 
font  and  leaning  pillars ;  Museum  (opn  9-1,  3-5), 
with  fine  Greek  Venus,  and  other  antiquities ;  Foun^ 
tain  of  Arethusa^  famed  in  Greek  mythology,  and  stUl 


PALERMO.  387 

surronnded  bypapyrus  plants  ;  ruins  of  Temple  of  Diana; 
Casfle  ;  and  Montalto  Palace.  On  mainland  near  by, 
see  scanty  remains  of  ancient  Syracuse  :  Amphitheatre  ; 
LatomidBy  or  quarries  once  worked  by  slaves ;  grotto 
called  Ear  ofJDionysius ;  Greek  Theatre  (480-406  B.C.) ; 
Fountain  of  tyane,  amid  growing  papyri;  fragments 
of  Temple  of  Zeus  Olympius  ;  etc. 

Weekly  steamers  hence  to  Malta  in  8  hrs. 

TBlermo  {Hotel  de  France  ;  Trinacria;  Des  Palmes; 
Centrale),  the  capital  of  Sicily  (246,000  inhab.),  is  very 
beautifully  situated  between  Mt.  Pellegrino  and  Cape 
Zaffarana,  facing  the  sea,  and  has  mild  winters  and 
intensely  hot  summers.  It  was  settled  from  Phoenicia, 
strengthened  from  Greece,  fortified  by  Carthage,  cap- 
lured  by  Rome,  and  governed  in  succession  by  the 
Byzantines,  Arabs,  Normans,  Germans,  French,  and 
English.  On  the  beautiful  Marina  and  La  Flora  prome- 
nades  the  Sicilian  people  of  fashion  congregate.  The 
Cathedral  (1169-85)  is  a  great  and  imposing  ch., 
with  tombs  of  the  Sicilian  kings,  and  of  Emperor  JPred- 
erick  II. ;  immense  silver  sarcophagus  containing 
remains  of  St.  Rosalia ;  many  statues  and  carved  choir- 
stalls  ;  and  crypt,  with  tombs  of  ancient  archbishops. 
La  Martorana  ch.  (12th  century)  has  curious  old  Greek 
mosaics,  Corinthian  columns,  and  a  tall  campanile.  See 
also  S.  Gataldo  (1161),  a  Sicilian -Norman  ch. ;  S. 
Gioryanni  degli  Eremifi,  in  form  of  letter  T,  with  5 
domes,  and  cloisters ;  gorgeously  ornamented  Jesuits* 
ch,  ;  Norman  S.  Francesco  d'Assisi ;  and  S.  Domenico 
(1640),  which  can  hold  12,000  persons.  The  Museum 
(open  10-3 ;  1 1.)  contains  many  Sicilian-Greek  statues 
and  sarcophagi,  Pompeian  antiquities,  and  a  picture- 
gallery,  mainly  composed  of  paintings  by  old  Sicilian 
masters.  The  Royal  Palace  is  Saracenic,  with  notable 
apartments  added  by  King  Roger,  Robert  Guisca^ 


388  PALERMO.  —  MONREALE. 

Manfred,  and  Emperor  Frederick  II.  Here  also  is 
magnificent  Cappella  Falattna  (1132),  the  finest  casUe- 
chapel  in  the  world,  a  basilica  with  Egyptian-granite 
columns,  Saracenic  arches,  mosaics  on  gold,  and  many 
Arabian  inscriptions.  Superb  view  from  Observatory, 
The  great  cloisters  of  the  Spedale  Grande  (1330)  are 
covered  with  frescos.  Note  Gothic  windows  of  Archi- 
episcopal  Palace  ;  large  Municipal  Palace  ;  University  ; 
National  Library  (open  9-2);  spacious  and  arcaaed 
Patemb  Palace  ;  Palace  of  the  Tribunals  (1307),  long 
the  home  of  the  Inquisition;  Ganzia  Monastery :  rich 
Botanical  Garden;  and  Porta  Nuova,  triumphal  arch 
for  Charles  V.'s  solemn  entry  after  his  victory  at  Tunis. 

Monreale,  5  M.  out,  beyond  Palace  of  Due  d'Au> 
male,  elegant  old  Saracenic  palace  of  Cubola,  Capuchiit 
Monastery  where  Falerraitan  patricians  are  kept  em- 
balmed, and  rich  gardens  of  ViUa  Tasca,  is  a  large  tuwu 
which  has  risen  around  the  Cathedral,  founded  by 
William  II.  in  1170.  It  is  333  X  132  ft.  in  area,  with 
superb  entrance;  bronze  doors  (1186);  Saracenic 
arches ;  cloisters  supported  on  216  columns ;  and  over 
60,000  square  ft.  of  ma^ficent  mosaics,  scriptural 
and  historical.  Monreale  is  1231  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
commands  famous  views.  More  than  1,200  ft.  above  is 
venerable  Benedictine  Monastei-y  of  S.  Martino,  with 
library,  museum,  and  views.  The  celebrated  Monte 
Pellegrino  can  be  ascended  in  2  hrs.  See  shrine  and 
grotto  of  St.  Rosalia,  and  immense  sea-view.  La 
Favorita  is  a  splendid  royal  villa,  beyond  the  so-called 
Enolish  Garden.  Nearly  3  M.  out  is  S.  Maria  di  Gesu, 
a  large  suppressed  monastery,  with  favorite  view  of 
Palermo.  ^  Ancient  Saracenic  villas  and  chateaux  of 
modem  Sicilian  nobles  abound  in  the  environs. 

From  Palermo  it  is  96  M.  by  rly.  (15 Jl.,  10  1. 70  c,, 

\65c.):o 


GIRGENTI.  —  CIVITA  VECCHIA.  38f> 

Oirgenti  (EM  CentraZe;  Des  Tempies),  chief  town 
on  S.  coast  of  Sicily  (21,000  infaab.).  On  mt.  near  by 
are  ruins  of  Acrafos  {Agrigentum),  which  Pindar  callea 
"the  most  beautiful  city  of  mortals."  It  was  founded 
by  Cretans ;  had  200,000  inhab.,  and  vast  wealtd ;  was. 
destroyed  by  Carthage ;  and  became  a  Eoman  colony. 
Here  are  fairly  preserved  ruins  of  Temples  of  Juiu> 
(with  34s  columns),  Hercules  (38  columns),  Concord 
(34  columns),  Zeus  (37  huge  columns),  and  others ;  and 
walls,  gates,  cloacae,  catacombs,  tombs,  etc.,  in  great 
u|lmbers. 

Leghorn,  Pisa,  Lucca,  Gtonoa,  Monaco. 

Tourists  who  have  reached  Naples  by  rly.  had  best 
return  N.  by  sea.  The  Fraissinet  steamships  leave 
Naples  twice  weekly  for  Civita  Vecchia,  Leghorn^ 
Genoa,  and  Marseilles. 

Givit^  Vecchia  (Orlando;  Europa)  is  a  fortified 
port  of  13,000  inhab. .  founded  by.  Trajan,  and  destroyed 
by  Saracens  (in  828).  Fortress  built  after  plans  by 
Michael  Angelo.  Rly.  across  Maremma  to  Leghorn* 
Ely.  to  Ex)me,  50i  M.,  in  2  hrs.  (fares,  9 1. 20  c,  6 1. 40  c.„ 
4 1. 60  c).    Time  of  voyage  from  Naples,  12-14  hrs. 

A  voyage  of  12  hrs.,  by  Elba,  leads  hence  to  Leg- 
liorn  (Anglo-American  Hotel;  Grand  Hotel;  Oiap- 
pone;  Du  Nord;  Falcone  e  Patria),  one  of  the  chief 
Mediterranean  ports  (over  100,000  inhab.),  fortified, 
well-built,  and  modem.  It  was  founded  by  the  Medici 
family,  as  a  refuge  for  the  oppressed.  See  Englisk 
Cemetery^  with  Smollett's  tomb ;  fine  statues  of  3  Tuscan 
Grand-Dukes ;  venerated  sailors'  ch.  on  Monte  Nero ; 
piers  and  quays,  with  busy  and  chattering  crowds ;  an^ 
handsome  squares  and  Corso. 

Rly.  to  Pisa,  12  M.  (2 1.  5  c,  1 1.  40  c,  1 1.). 


S90  PISA. 

Pisa  (Hotel  Royal  Vitt&i%a;  Cerma;  Etiropa;  Gran 
Breta^gna;  Boma/  Minerva;  Washington/  Dela  Ville) 
is  a  quiet  and  beautiful  town  (50,000  inhab.)  near  the 
nioutn  of  the  Arno,  and  50  M.  from  Florence  (fares, 
81. 80c.,  61.20  c.).      It  was  conquered    by  Rome, 
B.C.  180 ;  adorned  with  temples  by  Augustus  and  Ha- 
drian; became  a  rival  of  Venice  and  Genoa  in  Middle 
Ages ;  defeated  the  Saracens  in  many  naval  battles ; 
became  anti-Papal,  and  was  defeated  by  Genoa;  and 
since  1406  has  been  subject  to  Florence.     It  is  very 
hot  in  summer,  but  the  mildness  of  its  winters  attra^ 
many  Northern  visitors  to  the  quaint  and  sombre  old 
town.    It  is  surrounded  by  picturesque  walls ;  and  has 
3  bridges,  and  a  fine  quay  along  the  Amo,  on  and  near 
which  you  may  see,  on  N.  side,  many  palaces  and  chs., 
including  ISth-century  S.  Micheie  ;  University  (1493), 
with  Renaissance  court  (statue  of  Galileo)  and  valuable 
library ;  Alia  Giornata,  Vitelli  and  Royal  Palaces ;  S, 
Niccolo  (1000),  once  Benedictine,  witli  statue  of  Fer- 
dinand I.  in  front ;  and  Guelphic  fortress,  near  Ponfe 
4i  Mare.     On  S.  shore,  12th-century  S.  Faolo,  wifli 
handsome  old  fa9ade ;  Benedictine  monastery ;  Gam- 
hacorti  Palace,  now  custom-house;    S.  Maria  della 
Spina  (1230),  a  beautiful  marble  Gothic  chapel,  with 
fragment  of  Crown  of  Thorns ;  round  S.  Sepolcro;  and 
the  Fortress.     Back  from  the  river,  on  N.,  see  S.  Fran- 
i^esco  (1300),  with  campanile ;  Botanical  Garden  and 
Natural-History  Museum  ;  S.  Sisto  (1089);  and  Piazza 
dei  Cavalierly  the  old  Repubhcan  forum.    Here  stand 
Palazzo  de^    Cavalieri,  with    statues,  and  S,  Stefano 
(1565),  ch.  of  Knights  of  St,  Stephen,  with  Turkish 
trophies  and  notable  paintings.      The  adjacent  Acad- 
emy of  Pine  Arts  (open  9-2)  was  founded  by  Napo- 
leon I.,  and  contains  many  good  Pisan  and  Florentme 
Daintings.    Lord  Byron  lived  a  long  time  in  Palazzo 


PISA.  391 

Lanfranchi,  S.  Caterim  (1253)  has  interesting  pictures, 
aiid  stands  in  a  pleasant  square,  ueai*  the  old  Eoinaii 
baths  and  the  Lttcca  Gate* 

In  the  remote  N,  W.  corner  of  Pisa  is  a  wonderful 
group  of  mediseval  buildings,  nearly  surrounded  by 
gardens  and  the  wall.  The  Cathedral,  311  X  106  ft. 
in  area,  and  109  ft.  high  in  the  nave,  was  founded  iu 
1063,  to  commemorate  defeat  of  Moslems  at  Palermo, 
and  consecrated  by  Pope  Gelasius  II.  in  1118.  It  is 
in  magnificent  Tuscan-Gothic  architecture,  of  white  and 
colored  marbles,  with  remarkable  fa9ade  of  columns  and 
arches,  double  aisles,  and  dome  lined  with  Cimabue's. 
mosaics.  Inside  are  65  antique  columns  (trophies  of 
Pisan  conquests),  a  splendidly  gilded  ceiling,  bronze 
doors  designed  by  John  of  Bologna,  12  altara  designed 
by  Michael  Angelo,  carved  pulpit  by  Niccolo  Pisano, 
altars  enriched  with  silver  and  lapis  lazuli,  many  rare 
pictures,  and  swinging  bronze  lamp  from  which  Galileo 
got  the  idea  of  the  pendulum. 

In  front  is  the  finest  Baptistery  in  the  world.  It 
is  round  (100  ft.  in  diameter,  and  190  ft.  high) ;  ia 
Roman-Tuscan  (1153-1278)  and  Gothic  styles;  of 
marble ;  and  surrounded  with  ancient  columns.  Inside^ 
see  six-sided  pulpit  on  7  columns,  with  6  reliefs  by 
Niccolo  Pisano,  and  handsome  font. 

The  Leaning  Tower  (1174-1350),  or  CampaniUy 
behind  Cathedral,  is  179  ft.  high,  in  8  stories,  sur. 
rounded  by  colonnades,  and  containing  7  bells.  It  is< 
14  ft.  out  of  the  perpendicular.  Grand  view  from  top, 
of  the  Apennines,  the  coast,  Elba,  and  Corsica. 

The  Campo  Santo  (open  daily;  25c.)  is  an  enclos- 
ure filled  with  scores  of  shiploads  of  sacred  earth  from 
Mt.  Calvary,  and  consecrated  to  burial  of  great  men. 
The  cloistered  hall  which  surrounds  it  was  built 
1278-83,  by  John  of  Pisa,  and  is  424  ft.  long  and  145- 


592  LUCCA.  —  CARRARA. 

;t.  broad,  with  62  beautiful  windows  opening  on  ».he 
verdant  court  within.  The  walls  are  decorated  with 
wonderful  and  curious  14th-century  frescos  of  early 
Bible  history  and  the  Triumph  of  Death,  some  of  which 
are  attributed  to  Giotto  and  Orcagna.  There  are  many 
splendid  monuments  in  these  corridors,  to  Emperor 
Henry  VII.,  Gregory  XIII.,  Catalani,  etc.;  and  sculp- 
tures by  Mino  da  riesole,  John  of  Pisa,  Luca  delJa 
^bbia,  Dupre,  and  Thorwaldsen. 

Excursions  from  Pisa,  -r-  To  summer-resort  of  Batht 
<>f  Gombo,  near  which  Shelley  was  drowned.  To  laa 
Certosa,  a  Carthusian  monastery,  6  M.  out,  on  the 
Pisan  Mts.  To  Basilica  of  S.  Pietro  in  Grado 
(a.d.  1000),  3  M.  out,  where  St.  Peter  knded  in 
Italy.     Rly.  in  13  M.  to 

Lucca  ( Universo  ;  Corona;  Croce  di  Mnltn).  a  beauti- 
ful old  walled  city  (64,000  inhab.^,  on  a  rich  plain,  and 
■embowered  in  groves.  A  splendid  Roman  municipiuw, 
it  afterwards  became  Gothic,  Lombard,  Prankish,  aucal, 
republican,  pisan,  and  Tuscan;  and  was  home  of 
Dante j  and  principality  of  Napoleon's  sister.  See 
•sumptuous  Romanesque  Cathedral  (1060-70),  veiT 
rich  in  art ;  Tth-century  Basilica  of  S.  Frediano,  built 
by  Lombard  kings,  with  rare  old  pictures ;  chs.  of  S. 
Giovanni,  S.  RonianOy  S.  Francesco,  and  S.  Michele,  and 
old  palaces ;  and  walk  around  fine  old  ramparts.  The 
Baths  of  Lucca  (Hotd  de  V Europe  ;  Di  Londra  ; 
New  York;  Pavilion;  Queen  Ficiorid),  12  M.  N., 
among  the  Apenuines,  are  a  collection  of  19  sulphu- 
retted ferruginous  springs.  This  has  been  a  famous 
health-resort  for  centuries. 

Pisa  to  Genoa,  by  rly.,  102i  M.  (fares,  181.  15  e., 
131.  60  c.,  101.y  Sea-passage,  Leghorn  to  Genoa, 
^  hrs.  The  rly.  lies  between  Apennines  and  sea, 
passing  Carrara,  a  beautiful  town  of  23,000  inhab. 


SPEZIA .  —  GENOA.  393 

(mostly  sculptors  and  marble-workers),  embowered  in 
groves  of  chestnut,  olive,  orange,  and  lemon  trees,  and 
2  hrs.  from  great  marble-ouames,  where  6,000  men  are 
employed.  La  Spezia  {&ran  Bretagna;  Oroce  di  Mai- 
ta;  Italia;  Bmaoi)  is  the  chief  Italian  naval  port,  strongly 
fortified  and  well  equipped  (24,000  inhao.),  and  was 
commended  by  Strabo  as  one  of  the  vastest  and  best 
ports  in  the  world.  Many  visitors  come  in  summer  for 
the  sea-baths;  and  in  winter,  for  the  mild  climate. 
Pleasant  trip  to  Forto  Venere  (IJ  hr.).  The  rly.  goes 
on,  by  Sestri  Levanie  and  Lavagna^  along  shore  of 
Mediterranean,  with  charming  views,  and  througli 
many  tunnels. 

Genoa  {Hotel  hoUa;  Trombeita;  Be  la  Fille; 
jyitalw  et  Croix  de  McUte;  Be  France;  Bu  Pare ; 
Des  EtraTigers;  Conccrrdia,  restaurant),  called  by  its 
citiicens  La  Superba,  has  211,000  inhab.,  and  is  Italy's 
chief  commercial  town.  It  was  founded  by  Ligurians ; 
became  Roman ;  enriched  itself  in  Crusades ;  conquered 
great  Levantine  domains;  fought  many  wars  witli 
V  enice,  Pisa,  and  the  Moslems ;  was  tx)m  for  centuries 
by  Guelph-Ghibelline  civil  wars-  maintained  itself  as 
a  republic  from  10th  century  to  19th ;  was  annexed  to 
France  in  1800 ;  and  in  1815  became  Sardinian.  It 
has  more  imposing  marble  palaces  than  any  other  city ; 
but  the  streets  are  narrow,  steep,  and  crooked.  It 
presents  a  vast  hemicycle  of  buildings,  ranged  along 
the  hills  like  seats  m  an  amphitheatre,  with  bold 
wooded  heights  above.  Ramparts,  7  M.  long,  defend 
the  city ;  and  an  outer  line,  20  M.  long,  with  towers 
and  intrenchments,  traverses  the  hills  oejond.  The 
Harbor  is  sheltered  bv  2  long  piers  with  hght-houses ; 
and  separated  from  the  town  by  a  high  arcaded  wall, 
by  which  fishermen  and  sailors  take  their  ease.  At  end 
near  the  chief  hotels,  there  is  a  marble  terrace  1,500  ft 


394  GENOA. 

long  and  45  ft.  wide,  affording  pleasant  view  of  harbor. 
Near  by  is  handsome  16tli-centurj  Ezchange*  with 
statue  of  Gavour.  The  Custom  House  cont^ns  many 
statues  of  Genoese  worthies  m  its  main  hall.  Splendid 
view  of  city,  sea,  and  Riviera  from  dome  of  S*  Maria 
di  Carignano,  on  high  hill  to  S.  E. 

The  Cathedral  (1100)    is  of  alternate  bands  of 
black  and  wliite  marbles,  with  16  Corinthian  columns, 
sumptuous  chapels,  rare  paintings,  many  statues,  and 
the  Holy  Grail.     Near  by,  on  Piazza  Nuova,  see  white- 
marble  town-hall,  with  statues  (once  Ducal  Palace) ; 
and  16th-century  Jesuits*  ch.  of  S.  Amhrogio^  with  pic- 
tures by  Guido  and  Rubens.     Near  bj  are  S.  Matieo 
il278),  with  many  sculptures  and  inscriptions  of  Dona 
amily ;  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  with  pictures  and  statu- 
ary ;  12th.century  Gothic  ch.  of  S.  Stefano,  with  famous 
picture  by  Giulio  Romano ;  and  Pallavicini  and  Spinola 
ralaces.     The  modern  Via  Balbi  and  Via  Nuova  are 
streets  of  superb  palaces,  many  of  which  have  beautiful 
courtyards  and  staircases.     Of  these,  notice  16th-cen- 
tury Municipio,  with  mosaift  portraits  of  Columbus  and 
Marco  Polo  (and  letters  of  former)  in  council  hall; 
Brignole  Sale,  with  8  rooms  full  of  old  paintings  (fee, 
1 1.) ;  Adorno  (1500),  with  valuable  pictures.     Most  of 
the  Genoese  palaces  were  built  bv  (or  in  manner  of) 
Alessi,  a  pupil  of  Michael  Angelo.      The  cruciform 
Capuchin  ch.  sASS.  Annunziata  (1587),  with  fluted  red- 
marble  columns  and  frescoed  dome,  is  very  rich.    Hence 
the  Via  Balbi,  a  broad  modem  street  of  palaces,  leads 
to  rly.  stat.,  passing  handsome  old  Palazzo  Durazzo  ; 
University  (1622),  with  museums,  Hbrary  (60,000  vols), 
and  the  finest  courtyard  and  staircase  in  Genoa ;  Pa- 
laaszo  BcQbi,  with  large   picture-gallery   (fee,  11.); 
Palazzo  Burazzo  and  Royal  Palace  (open  daily),  with 
richly  furnished  halls,  throne-room,  and  many  pictures. 


SAVONA. — SAN  REMO.  395 

In  square  by  rly.  stat.^  see  fine  monument  to  Columbu» 
(1863),  with  several  allegorical  statues  and  reliefs^ 
Eeyond  is  Palace  of  Doria  Princes,  presented  to  An- 
drea Doria,  "The  Father  of  his  Country,"  in  1522> 
with  splendidly  frescoed  halls,  gardens,  arcades,  and 
statues. 

Excursions  from  Genoa.  —  Villa  Pallavicini  feet 
permission  at  Durazzo  Palace ;  open  2-3  p.m.  ;  fee, 
1-2  L),  with  luxuriant  park  and  gardens,  magnificent 
views,  grottos,  kiosques,  fountains,  etc.  (at  Pegli  stat, 
71  M. ;  \  hr.  by  rly. ;  fares,  1 1.  16  o.,  80  c).  Campo 
Santo,  1^  M.  out,  new  and  interesting. 

The  famousCor  niche  road  leads  along  ihe  Riviera 
di  Ponente  from  Genoa  to  Nice  (128i  M.),  through 
some  of  the  finest  coast  and  hill  scenery  in  the  worm. 
Steamboats  from  Genoa  to  Nice,  in  8-9  hrs.,  nearly 
every  day. 

Rly.  from  Genoa  to  Nice  in  7-9  hrs.  (116  M. ;  fares, 
211.  5  c.,  141.  90  c.,  101.  65  c.),  by  slow  and  not  very 
comfortable  trains.  The  journey  should  be  bv  day,  as 
the  route  follows  t^  Mediterranean  coast  through  a 
succession  of  beautiful  and  historic  towns  and  villages. 
Take  seat  on  r.  as  far  as  Savona;  beyond  which  the 
best  views  are  on  the  1.  The  line  traverses  many  tun- 
nels, through  rockjr  promontories. 

Savona  {Pension  Suisse;  Italia/  Homa)  is  an 
ancient  city  (26,000  Inhab.),  whose  fine  harbor  Gtenoa 
caused  to  be  filled  up,  after  conquering  the  town. 
Sixtus  IV.  and  Julius  II.  were  bom  here.  See  Cathe- 
dral (1604) ;  8,  Domenieo,  with  triptych  by  Dtlrer  ; 
colossal  statue  of  Virgin  on  tower  by  harbor.  Rly. 
hence  to  Turin. 

San  Remo  (Hdtel  Victoria;  jyAngkterre  ;  Grande 
Bretagne  ;  Boyal ;  De  I/mdres  ;  West  End  ;  BeUemie/ 
De  la  Pa4x,   Banker,  Rubino)  is  a  town  of  15,000 


896  BORDIGHERA. 

inhab.^  on  hill-slopes  covered  with  vinejards  and  groves 
of  orange,  lemon,  olive,  pomegranate,  and  palm  trees. 
*The  climate  is  very  mild,  and  attracts  many  English, 
American,  German,  and  Russian  families  in  winter. 
The  town  is  a  densely  populated  group  of  fortress-like 
niedisval  houses,  with  picturesque  labyrinths  of  deep 
and  narrow  lanes.  See  very  ancient  Cathedral;  bvely 
view  from  Assumption  ch. ;  ruined  Borea  Palace;  and 
hermitage  of  S.  Romolo. 

Bordighera  (Edtel  d'AngUterre  ;  We»i  End  Hotel  / 
Windsor)  has  a  beautiful  site,  on  a  hill  of  palm>trees, 

firojecting  into  sea,  with  picturesque  streets  and  houses, 
t  was  once  capital  of  a  repubhc.  ituffini  laid  the 
scene  of  his  Dr,  Antonio  hereabouts.  Climate  b  ex- 
ceptionally soft  in  winter,  with  bracing  quality ;  and  is 
delightful  in  spring  and  fall.  Many  Americans  come 
here.  See  villa  of  Gamier,  architect  of  Paris  Opera- 
House;  and  palm-garden  of  Moreno.  Vintimlglla 
(poor  buiFet  at  stat.)  is  the  frontier-town,  where  baggage 
is  examined  and  travellers  changp  cars.  Be  sure  tliAt 
jour  baggage  is  put  back  on  traiiL 


MENTONE.  —  MONACO.  397 

SOUTHERN-    FRANCE. 

Mentone,  Nioe,  Cannes,  Marseilles. 

MBNTONB  {GraTid  E&tel  de  MerUon  ;  Victaria/ 
National;  Du  Pare;  Pmsion  des  Orangers ; 
Isles  Britanniques ;  Des  AmboModeurs;  Du  Lowore  ; 
Des  Aiwlais;  DelaPaix;  BeUemie;  Grande  Bretagne  ; 
MStel  uaravan;  H6UI  Beaurivage).  The  old  town  keeps 
its  feudal  aspect,  with  narrow  and  winding  streets, 
on  a  promontory  dividing  the  bay.  The  new  town  is 
on  a  long  street,  parallel  with  the  hill.  See  grand 
view  from  ruins  of  Castle  (1402) ;  St.  Julian  Gate  ; 
Palasizo:  and  PuMic  Garden.  Climate  more  equable 
than  at  Nice  or  Cannes,  and  very  tonic  ;  and  availed 
of  by  very  many  people  with  lung  or  bronchial 
troubles.  Beautiful  excursions  in  vicinity.  Cor. 
niche  road  hence  to  Nice  (18f  M. ;  8-4  hrs.)  through 
most  exQuisite  coast  scenery. 

Near  Monte  Carlo  stat.  is  famous  Casino  of  Mo- 
naco (Hdtel  de  Paris,  with  good  restaurant ;  Metro- 
pole  ;  De  Bussie),  with  magnificent  palace  for  con- 
certs, decorated  theatre,  very  elaborate  gardens,  and 
Gaming  Establishment.  Great  numbers  of  fashiona- 
bles here,  from  December  to  May. 

Monaco  (Pmsion  VtUa  Lesseps;  Hdtel  de  la  I\nx), 
the  capital  of  a  Lilliputian  principality,  under 
French  protection,  stands  on  a  bold  rock  nearly  sur- 
rounded by  the  sea.  The  ancient  Palace  of  the  Princes 
(open  daily;  small  fee)  has  sumptuous  rooms  and  good 
frescos.  Bathing  establishments  at  foot  of  rock,  and 
new  hotels.  Pleasant  promenades,  mild  winter  cli- 
mate, and  sea  bathing  in  summer.    Between  Monaco 


398  NICE.  ~  CANNES. 

and  Nice  is  Villafranca,  winter  headquarters  of 
American  nayy  in  European  waters. 

Nice  (Ectd  de  Nice;  Terminus;  Grande  Breiagne; 
Dee  Anglais;  Cosmopolitan;  Be  la  Mediterranee ; 
De  Fraruoe;  Grand ;  Paradis)  a  handsome  and  well- 
built  city  (90,000  inhab.),  with  an  Italian  aspect,  is  the 
cliief  of  the  fashionable  winter-resorts  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean coast,  and  has  an  extremely  soft  and  agreeable 
climate,  and  loveljr  environs.  England  and  Germany, 
Kussia  and  America,  send  many  invalids  here.  The 
brilliant  winters  are  succeeded  by  very  dull  summers. 
It  was  originally  a  Greek  colony;  then  Provencal, 
Savoyard,  Sardinian,  and  French.  Mass^na  was  bom 
in  house  No.  21  (^uai  St.  Jean  Baptiste;  Garibaldi, 
at  No.  4  Eue  Cassini.  Paganini  died  at  No.  14  Rue 
de  la  Prefecture;  Halivy,  at  No.  5  Rue  de  France. 
The  world-renowned  Promenade  des  Anglais  extends 
along  the  bay  for  \\  M.,  bordered  by  beautiful  villas 
and  public  establishments.  See  Place  MassSna^  with 
bronze  statue  of  Mass^na ;  Jardin  Publigue,  with  palm 
groves  and  good  band-music ;  Place  des  Phociens,  and 
antique  Greek  fountain ;  remains  of  Castle,  on  lull  of 
palm  and  orange  groves,  with  magnificent  view  over 
sea  and  mts. ;  old  and  new  Hotels  de  Fille  ;  Palace  of 
Prefecture;  ajicient Lascaris  Palace ;  Natural-ITistory 
Museum;  Public  lAbrary ;  and  Marble  Cross,  Many 
charming  excursions  to  FiUafranca,  Montboron,  CA£- 
teau  Neuf,  St,  Pons,  dtnies,  etc.  (consult  hotel-porters, 
most  of  whom  speak  English).  It  is  6  hrs.  henoe, 
bj  express  (26  fr.70c.,  20fr.  76  c.,  15fr.90cX  to 
Marseilles. 

Ctames  (H^tel  Splendide,  Des  Princes,  Du  Midi,  in 
tlie  town  ;  Gray  and  A&nan,  Gonnet,  De  la  Pi<W,  De 
Mifomie,  Pension  Suisse,  in  E.  quarter ;  Beau  S^four, 
Provence,  Paradis,  RicJiemont,  on  the  hills  ;  Beau  Site, 


TOULON.  —  MARSEILLES.  399 

Belleoue,  in  W.  quarter)  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
and  attractive  Mediterranean  winter-resorts,  sheltered 
from  the  winds,  and  frecjuented  by  people  whose  lun^ 
are  delicate.  The  English  and  Russians  monopcdize  it, 
and  the  latter  have  many  handsome  villas  in  the  vicinity. 
Magnificent  sea-views,  including  the  lies  de  Lerins, 
where,  on  lie  S.  Margueritey  the  Man  with  the  Iron 
Mask  was  imprisoned  (1687-98),  and  Marshal  Bazaine 
escaped  (1874).  On  lie  8.  Honoraty  ruins  of  one  of 
the  most  famous  medifieval  monasteries.  Near  Cannes 
is  Antibefl,  a  very  picturesque  old  coast  town,  sur- 
rounded by  walls  and  defended  by  a  fort ;  and  Gol/e 
Jouan,  where  Napoleon  landed  from  Elba. 

The  Marseilles  rly.  ^oes  on  to  Fr6jiis,  with  ruins  of 
Roman  theatre,  amphitheatre,  Gilded  Gate,  and  aque- 
duct (25  M.  long).  From  La  Pauline  stat.  branch  rly. 
to  Hy^res,  a  favorite  health-resort  in  winter,  with 
picturesque  rocky  islets  off-shore  and  lofty  mts.  behind. 
Toulon  {Grand  Hotel;  Victoria;  Dela  Paix;  Du 
Jford)  is  the  chief  French  naval  station  (77,000  inhab^ 
on  the  Mediterranean,  on  a  deep  double  harbor,  sheltered 
by  Cape  Sepet,  and  defended  oy  11  forts.  It  beat  off 
an  Austrian  and  Italian  army  in  1707 ;  but  Bonaparte 
wrested  it  from  an  English  garrison  in  1793.  See 
ArseMol-ffate,  with  statues ;  Maritime  Museum ;  Puget's 
statue  of  Renown ;  prison,  founded  by  Colbert  in  1682, 
now  depot  of  prisoners  sentenced  to  transportation ; 
Hotel  de  Fille,  with  sculptures,  and  in  front  a  statue  of 
Genius  of  Navigation;  ancient  Cathedral^  with  sculp- 
tures by  Canova,  Mignard,  and  Puget,  and  noble  view 
from  Balterie  du  SaluL    It  is  41^  M.  hence  to 

Marseillea  {Hotel  de  Noailles  ;  Be  Marseilles:  Du 
liOuvre  et  de  la  Paix  ;  Des  Colonies),  the  foremost  mari- 
time city  (403,000  inhab.)  of  France,  which  has  a  long 
and  narrow  inner  harbor,  with  large  modem  docks  out- 


400  MARSEILLES.  —  CHATEAU  D'IF. 

side.  It  was  founded  by  Greeks  or  Pho&niciaiis,  b.c.  600, 
under  the  name  of  Massilia ;  defeated  the  Carthagiu. 
ians ;  established  man^  colonies  along  the  coast ;  was 
ccnquered  by  Csesar,  Visigoths,  Franks,  Saracens,  and 
Spaniards ;  and  in  1481  was  annexed  to  France.  Here 
were  bom  Thiers,  Godain,  Paget,  and  M6ry.  The 
Marseillaise  call  their  Ia  Cannebi&re  the  finest  street 
ill  the  world.  This  line  of  streets  runs  N.  W.  from  the 
ancient  harbor,  by  the  handsome  Bourae,  with  statues 
of  eminent  pre-Christian  Massilian  (Greek)  navigators; 
the  Flace  Boyah  ;  across  the  shady  Cmn  de  ^AthenUe 
(statue  of  intrepid  Bishop  Belsunce),  whieh  leads  to 
Triumphal  Arch,  with  sculptures  of  Napoleon's  victories, 
%nd  to  rl^.  stat. ;  across  Caur»  St.  Louis,  which  runs 
under  various  names  2|  M.  to  the  N.  £. ;  and  out  to 
Zoological  Garden,  near  which  is  the  handsome  Icong- 
champs  Muaeum  (open,  10-4),  where  an  Ionic  colon- 
nade joins  the  Natural-History  Museum  to  the  Picture- 
Gallerjr. 

See  immense  Bocks  ;  Canal,  which  cost  $12,000,000; 
Ch.  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde,  on  steep  and  far-view- 
ing hill;  splendid  new  Byzantine  Cathedral;  old  Ca- 
thedral, on  ruins  of  Temple  of  Diana ;  palatial  Hotel  de 
la  Prefecture;  and  Palais  de  Justice. 

In  suburbs,  visit  noble  Corniche  road.  The  Chateau 
d'l^  built  by  Francis  I.  on  an  island  in  the  harbor, 
was  made  famous  by  Dumas's  Monte  Cristo. 

Steamships  of  Messageries  Maritimes,  Valery  Freres, 
Frabsinet  &  Co.,  and  other  lines,  make  MaraeiUes  tlieir  chief 
port,  and  ran  to  Messina,  Athens,  and  Constantinople;  to 
Syra,  Smyrna,  Constantinople,  and  Odessa,  —  returning  by 
Athens  and  Naples ;  to  Salonica ;  to  Naples  and  Alexandria ; 
to  Port  Said,  Jaffa,  Beyrout,  and  Syrian  coast ;  to  Trebi- 
Eond ;  to  Madras  and  Calcutta ;  to  Suez,  Aden,  Singapore^ 
Hong-Kong,  Shanghai,  and  Yokohama  (fortnightly) ;  to  Al- 


ARLES.— NIMBS.  401 

giers ;   to   Barcelona ;    to   Nice,   Genoa,   Leghorn,    Civit^ 
Vecchia,  and  Naples ;  and  occasionally  to  New  York. 

Prom  Marseilles  the  tourist  may  readily  ent«r  Spain  by  wajr 
of  Barcelona  (see  page  405). 

Aries,  Nimes,  Avignon,  and  Lyons. 

Rly.  from  Marseilles  to  Paris  in  16-18  hrs.  (fores,  106 fr. 
35  c,  79  fr.  80  c).  Train  leaving  at  8.30  a.m.  is  due  at 
Paris  at  11.19  p.m. 

The  route  leads  through  vineyards  and  olive-groves, 
among  which  are  ancient  villages,  to  Aries  (Grand 
Hotel  du  Forum  ;  Ba  Nord),  a  venerable  Roman  town 
(26,000  inhab.)  near  the  .Camarguey  or  delta  of  the 
Rhone.  The  Roman  Amphitheatre  (b.c.  43)  is  1,500  ft. 
around,  with  seats  for  25,000  spectators,  fine  arcades^, 
and  dens  for  wild  beasts.  It  has  been  a  fortress  of  the 
Groths,  Saracens,  and  Franks,  some  of  whose  towers  are 
still  standing.  The  remains  of  the  Roman  Theatre  are 
very  interesting.  See  also  famous  Roman  cemetery 
of  Champs  Blysees  (mentioned  by  Dante)  ;  columns  in 
Place  du  Forum;  ruins  of  Thermae,  and  of  Constan- 
tine's  Palace;  Roman  Obelisk  of  Alpine  granite,  set 
up  here  in  1676 ;  Museum  (in  old  ch.  pf  S.  Anna)  of 
Roman  statues  and  antiquities  ;  7th-century  Cathedral^ 
with  fine  portal  and  interesting  cloisters ;  viaduct  with 
32  arches;  and  (2^  M.  N.  E.)  imposing  ruins  of  for- 
tress-abbey of  Montmajour,  on  a  high  rock.  The 
women  of  Aries  are  celebrated  for  beauty. 

Pares,  Marseilles  to  Aries,  10  fr.  60  c.,  7fr.  90c.> 
5  fr.  80  c.  Prom  Aries,  via  Tarascon,  to  Nimes,  4  fr» 
85  c.,  3  fr.  60  c.,  2fr.  60  c. 

Ntmes  {Hotel  du  Luxembourg  ;  Du  Midi)  the  birth- 
place of  Guizot  and  Nicot  (whence  nicotine) ,  has 
70,000  inhab.     It  was  once  a  sacred  spot  in  a  Druidical 


402  TARASCON.  —  AVIGNON. 

forest ;  conquered  by  Rome,  B.C.  121 ;  and  at  time  of 
Reformation,  scene  of  fierce  religious  wars.    No  ^her 
French  town  has  such  noble  Roman  remains.     The 
veil-preserved  Amphitheatre  (b.c.  140)  has  35  rows  of 
«eats  and  121  exits,  and  is  1,300  ft.  around  and  74  ft. 
high.    It  was  made  a  fortress  by  Visigoths  and  Sara. 
<5ens ;  and  afterwards  contained  a  large  village.     Tbo 
Maison  Carrie  is  a  Roman  temple,  88  X  42  ft.  in  area, 
with  30  exquisite  Corinthian  columns.     Founded  prob> 
ably  by  the  Antonines,  it  became  afterwards  a  ch.,  and 
then  a  town-hall ;  and  is  now  a  Museum,  with  antique 
mosaics  and  sculptures,  and  several  score  of  modem 
paintings.     The  Capitol  at  Richmond,  Va.,  was  mod« 
•elled  on  plan  of  Maison  Carrie.     See  also  ancient  T^mm- 
ple  of  Diana  (or  Nfmphaum),  and  Roman  Baths,  below 
the  nuge  and  far-viewing  TourmagnCy  on  Mount  Cava- 
Mer,  adorned  with  promenades ;  2  of  the  Roman  town- 
gates  ;  Fountain ;  and  Boulevards. 

TaraBCon  {Hotel  des  Empereurs  ;  Du  Petit  Louvre)^ 
the  city  of  the  troubadours,  and  of  King  Rin^  of 
Anjou  (13,500  inhab.),  has  notable  Castle,  Ch.  of  S, 
Martke,  Chapel  of  St.  Gabriel,  and  Rue  des  Arcades. 

Avignon  (Hotel  de  VBurope)  is  a  handsome  city 
'(38,000  iuhab  J  on  the  Rhone,  with  an  imposing  and 
well-preserved  wall  (1349-68)  of  huge  masonry,  and 
many  gates.  On  the  Rocher  des  Dons,  300  ft.  high, 
stands  the  14th-century  Cathedral,  with  tombs  of  2 
popes ;  La  Glaciere,  an  ancient  square  prison-tower  of 
the  Inquisition,  where  many  martyrs  have  died;  the 
Fapal  Palace  (now  a  barrack),  a  huge  and  fortress-like 
pile,  100  ft.  high,  \rith  frowning  towers  and  a  chapel 
frescoed  by  Memmi  (about  1330) ;  the  old  Papal  Mint, 
«tc.  Splendid  view  of  Rhone  and  city  from  adjacent 
public  gardens.  The  golden  age  of  Avignon  was  dur- 
ing 1305-77,  when  7  popes  dwelt  there,  with  all  the 


VAUCLUSE.  —  VIMNNE.  405 

Pontifical  court.  In  1351  Petrarch  was  a  guest  in  the 
Palace,  and  Kienzi  lay  bound  in  its  dungeons.  At  foot 
of  Rocher  des  Dons  is  the  Grande  Placey  with  hand- 
some Theatre  and  Hotel  de  Fille*  See  also  CkUvet 
Museum  (Ifr.),  with  Roman  antiquities,  library,  and 
picture-gallery ;  Bridge,  of  which  but  4  arches  remain ; 
Monument  to  Petrarch's  Laura;  17th-century  H6tel 
Crillon;  and  Ch.  of  Grands  Carmes. 

Vaucluae  is  12  M.  distant  by  rly.  to  VEe-sur- 
SorgueSy  whence  4  M.  by  road.  Here  is  the  fountain 
of  which  Petrarch  sang.  The  Pont  du  Gard,  W".  of 
Avignon,  is  one  of  the  grandest  Roman  works  in  exist- 
ence. It  is  an  aqueduct  of  3  lines  of  arches,  over 
the  desolate  Gard  Valley,  built  probably  by  Agrippa. 

Beyond  Avignon  the  Paris  rly.  passes  Orange 
(^Hotel  de  la  Poste ;  Des  Princes')  y  a  Roman  colony, 
and  afterwards  capital  of  principality  (until  1702), 
with  large  Roman  Theatre  (20,000  sittings)  and 
Triumphal  Arch.  Near  Pierrelatte  are  many  Roman 
remains.  MontSlimart  has  famous  mineral  springs. 
Livron  is  famous  for  its  defence  by  the  Huguenots 
against  Henri  III.  in  1574.  Valence  (Hotel  de  la 
Croix)  is  a  picturesque  town  (20,000  inhab.),  with 
Roman  ruins;  Cathedral  with  tomb  of  Pius  VI.; 
Museum ;  and  Maison  des  Tetes.  Vienne  {Hotel  du 
Nord;  De  la  Poste),  '*a  little  French  Manchester" 
(25,000  inhab.),  on  the  Rhone,  has  Roman  Temple  of 
Augustus,  with  16  Corinthian  columns;  6th-century 
basilica  of  S.  Pierre  ;  venerable  Cathedral;  etc. 

Lyons  {Grand  Hotel  de  Lgon;  Des  Beaux- Arts; 
Collet  et  Continental ;  De  I' Europe),  the  second  city  and 
chief  manufacturing  place  of  France  (400,000  inhab.), 
is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhone  and  Saone,  and  is  of 
vast  importance,  both  commercially  and  strategically. 
The  Perrache  is  the  quarter  between  and  reclaimed 


404  LYONS. 

from  tbe  2  rivers ;  and  containing  handsome  lij.  stat.. 
Arsenal,  Barracks,  Castom  House,  and  Ch.  of  St. 
Blaadine.  See  13th-century  Cathedral,  with  fayade  by 
Fhilibert  Delorme,  and  noble  tower;  Museum  (open 
9-3),  with  Eoman  antiquities  and  statues,  library,  and 
large  picture-gallery  (see  Perugino's  Ascension) ;  Grand 
Theatre;  noble  view  from  pilgnmage-ch.  oi Notre  Dame 
de  Fourvi^e,  on  heights  ;  H6tel  de  ViUe  (1647),  near 
scene  of  massacres  of  1794 ;  Cine  Library,  180,000 
vols. ;  Palace  of  Commerce,  with  industrial  museum ; 
Hotel  Lieu;  great  tobacco-factories;  new  Belleeaur 
Theatre;  10th-century  ch.  of  Abbey  of  Aina^,  on  site 
of  Caligula's  school  of  rhetoric ;  handsome  Tete  cTOr 
park ;  Ch.  of  S.  Jean,  of  12th  century ;  and  Pleu^e 
Bellecow.  There  are  16  bridges  over  me  rivers ;  and 
the  adjacent  heights  are  covered  with  great  forts. 

BJy.  from  Lyons  to  Geneva,  4^  hrs.  (fares,  20  fr. 
65  c,  15  J  fr.,  11  fr.  35  c.)  ;  and  to  Besan9on  (fares, 
29  fr.  20  c,  21  fr.  85  c,  16  fr.  5  c).  Besangon  ?flb7<?/ 
(le  Farts)  is  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  France 
(48,000  inhab.),  with  noble  Cathedral,  Archiepiscopal 
Palace,  Granvelle  Palace  (1534),  Roman  Arch,  and 
Library  (120,000  vols.). 

Express  trains,  Lyons  to  Paris,  9-10  hrs.,  by  Macon, 
Chaloiis-sur-Saone,  bijon,  etc. 

Motttpellier,  Cette,  and  Perpignan,  see  pages  405-6. 

Biarritz  and  Bavonne,  see  page  433. 

Pau,  Cauterets,  Bordeaux,  Areachon,  Angoulemey  Pot^ 
Hers,  Toulouse,  Vichy,  etc.,  see  pages  436  et  seq. 


SPAIN.  405 


A  ROUND  TRIP  IN  SPAIN. 

THE  tourist  who  can  give  ten  days  for-  a  visit  to* 
the  most  important  points  in  Spain  will  never  bav& 
occasion  to  regret  it.  He  will  find*  it  among  the  most 
interesting  and  instructive  of  his  journeys  in  Europe. 
From  Marseilles  we  recommend  you  to  go  directly  to- 
Barcelona^  from  there  to  Valencia,  and  wien«e  via  La 
Encina  to  the  Alcazar  de  San  Juan.  From  this  point 
you  may  go  S.  to  Seville  and  Cordova,  from»  Cordova  to 
Grenada,  from  Grenada  to  Malaga,  all  this  by  rail: 
then  from  Malaga  by  steamer  to  Gibraltar ;  from  Gib- 
raltar to  Cadiz,  from  Cadiz  to  Seville,  from  Seville  ta 
the  Alcazar  de  San  Juan :  from  thence  to  Madorid,  taking 
on  the  way  the  ancient  city  of  Toledo ;  and  from  Madrid 
N.  to  France  by  Avila,  Valladolid,  Burgos,  and  Irun : 
thence  to  Bordeaux  and  Paris.  That  does  not  include^ 
several  points  of  interest,  such  as  for  instance  Saragossa,, 
Alicante,  Salamanca,  etc. ;  but  it  gives  a  capital  idea 
of  the  chief  beauties  of  Spain.  Even  to  those  who  feel 
that  they  cannot  spend  the  time  to  go  S.  to  Seville, 
Grenada,  Malaga,  and  Gibraltar,  we  would  recommend 
to  try  the  route  to  Barcelona,  Valencia,  Toledo,  and 
N.,  being  satisfied  with  half  of  Spain  if  they  cannot 
see  the  whole.  As  for  the  journey  to  Portugal  and 
especially  to  Lisbon  we  shall  simply  point  out  the  route,, 
as  most  vacation  tourists  will  find  it  too  lengthy. 

Between  Marseilles  and  Barcelona  you  pass  through 
Montpellier  [Hotel  Nevet ;  Du  Midi;  Bu  Chevat 
Blanc).  Here  is  a  Cathedral  founded  in  1364  by  Ur- 
ban V. ;  a  school  of  medicine  with  fine  entrance  flanked 
with  a  colossal  bronze  statue  representing  Barthea  and 


406  GERONA.  —  BARCELONA. 

La  Peyronnic ;  a  library  of  50,000  vols.,  a  good  ini»- 
seum  (open  Sun.,  Hon.,  and  fete  days,  11-3) ;  a  public 
library,  60,000  vols. ;  and  many  beautiful  fountains, 
statues,  gardens,  and  promenades  : — Cette,  one  of  the 
most  industrious  and  dirtiest  cities  of  Southern  France, 
noted  for  its  exports  of  wine,  for  its  museum  of  natural 
history,  and  its  botanical  garden:  —  Narbofme,  and 
Perpignan,  an  old  French  town  with  a  Spanish  aspect. 
The  SpKBnish  frontier  is  reached  at  Cerhere^  in  the  midst 
of  a  wildly  beautiful  country ;  baggage  inspection  not 
:aevere.  The-only  point  of  special  importance  through 
which  you  pass  on  your  way  to  Barcelona  is 

Geiona  {Fonda  IMiana),  a  large  town  divided  into 
two  sections,  upper  and  lower,  by  the  river  Ofia.  Noble 
view  here  of  the  Pyrenees  and  the  distant  mountains. 
The  poi«h  of  the  Cathedral  is  reached  by  a  monumental 
staircase  of  86  steps.  The  interior  forms  one  single 
nave,  nearly  200  ft.  long,  sustained  by  immense  pillars, 
formed  of  little  columns  almost  detached  from  each 
other.  Many  interesting  tombs  here.  The  chief  altar 
is  one  of  the  richest  in  Spain.  The  Bishop's  Palace  is 
Tery  fine.  Old  churches  of  Santa  Lucia  and  San  Daniel 
^re  worth  seeing.  The  Capuchin  Concent  contains  a 
small  Arabie  monument  of  wonderful  intricate  work- 
manship.    From  Gerona  it  is  65  M.  to 

Barcelona  (Hotel  de  las  Cuatro  Naciones  ;  Fonda 
del  Oriente;  De  Espafla;  Peninsula/r;  SanAguatin),  one 
of  the  most  enterprising  as  well  as  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  cities  (430,000  inhab.)  in  Southern  Europe.  Its 
appearance  quite  contradicts  any  impressions,  that  one 
may  have  of  the  slovenliness  and  lack  of  energy  of  the 
modem  Spaniards,  impressions,  alas !  confirmed  later 
on  by  the  aspect  of  more  southward  towns.  Barcelona 
is  the  residence  of  a  CaptaiK  General  and  of  the  civil 
governor  of  the  province  of  Catalonia.     It  is  at  present 


SPAIN.  407 

underjgoiug  a  great  transformation.  The  upper  part  of 
the  city,  notably  in  the  Gracia  quarter,  will  remind 
Americans  of  the  more  beautiful  sections  of  Boston  and 
of  Washington.  The  Bambla  is  the  principal  pron^enade 
of  the  city,  and  at  noon  and  in  the  evening  is  thronged 
with  all  classes  of  the  population.  It  runs  from  the 
Place  of  La  Paz,  opposite  the  port,  to  the  Tarragona  x\j, 
stat.,  and  from  here  stretches  out  the  beautiful  Gracia 
avenue,  which  unites  the  city  to  a  suburb  of  the  same 
name.  Vast  boulevards  have  been  planned  in  an  equally 
vast  new  city,  which  the  people  oi  Barcelona  insist  is. 
sure  to  be  built.  Amon^  toe  squares  is  the  Royal;, 
that  of  the  Duke  of  Medina  Cell,  ornamented  with  a 
column  raised  to  the  memory  of  Marquet ;  the  Square 
of  Commerce,  with  its  beautiml  fountam ;  and  the  Neu^ 
Place,  where  are  two  interesting  old  towers.  The  travel- 
ler will  at  once  be  struck  with  the  magnificence  of  some 
of  the  public  buildings;  among  others  the  Theatre  called 
the  L^eeo,  which  is  said  to  be  the  hirgest  in  the  world. 
It  is  built  after  the  model  of  La  Scak,  at  Milan.  The 
Lonia,  or  Exchange,  is  of  monumental  aspect.  The  Casa 
de  la  Diputacion,  on  the  Place  of  the  Constitution,  was 
built  in  the  16th  century ;  fine  portal.  On  the  side  front- 
ing on  the  Calle  del  Obispo  is  the  exquisite  fa9ade  of  the 
chapel  of  St.  George,  Grothic  in  style.  The  Hall  of  the 
Diputacion  has  many  fine  paintings ;  among  others  a 
number  of  the  best  works  of  Fortuny.  Here  are  the 
Archives  of  the  Crowii  of  Aragon.  This  superb  col- 
lection is  able  to  furnish  without  any  gaps  documents 
to  complete  the  history  of  10  centuries.  Opposite  is 
the  Casa  Consistorial,  a  Gothic  edifice  (1378).  The 
patio,  or  courtyard,  is  much  admired.  The  Custom 
House,  Casa  Aduana,  is  near  the  old  royal  palace.  The 
public  libraries  are  small  but  well  chosen.  Barcelona 
has  numerous  fine  hospitals,  and  its  schools  are  quite 


408  BARCELONA. 

remarkable,  for  Spain.    The  Cathedral  dates  from  the 
£rst  ceaturies  of  the  Ghiirch.    It  is  dedicated  to   S. 
JIulalia ;  but  the  present  church  was  built  by  Ray- 
mond Berenguer  I.  in  1058.  Its  front  is  sUll  unfiniahed. 
The  interior  has  3  vast  naves,  ogival  in  style.     The 
«hief  altar  is  in  a  sort  of  temple,  supported  oy  sculp- 
tured columns  :  at  the  top  is  a  Christ  upon  the  Cross. 
Beneath  the  ch.  is  a  crypt,  with  a  chapel  in  which  are 
said  to  repose  the  remains  of  S.  Euklia :  beautiful 
stained  glass  windows  here.     The  side  door  on  the  r. 
leads  into  the  cloister,  which  is  marvellously  decorated 
in  the  style  of  the  15th  centurv.     Notice  the  ironwork 
on  the  doors  of  the  chapels  :  also  the  tomb  of  the  dwarf 
buffoon  of  King  Alfonso  V.   of  Aragon.    There  are 
numerous  other  chs.  of  interest.    Among  the  most  strik- 
ing is  S.  Maria  del  Mar,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice.     The 
Provincial  Museum  contains  some  good  paintings  by 
Villodomat,  some  by  the  Caracci,  and  worKs  of  Hibera 
and  other  masters.  The  Museo  Arqtieologieo,  in  the  ch.  of 
Santa  Agneda,  is  interesting.  On  an  isolated  hill  stands 
the  Coitle  of  Montjuick,  which  can  contain  a  garrison 
of  about  10,000  men.    Barcelonetta  is  a  little  suburb 
chiefly   inhabited  by  fishermen  and  workmen  in  the 
marine  establishments.     Gratia  is  a  favorite  residence 
of  the  wealthier  people  of  Barcelona. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  immense  rocky 
mass  of  Momerrat,  which  rises  in  the  midst  of  the 
Catalonian  plain,  to  the  height  of  about  3,500  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  31  M.  from  Barce- 
lona. It  may  be  reached  from  the  stat.  of  MartoreU, 
on  the  Tarragona  line,  or  rather  more  easily  from  Mo- 
nistrol,  a  station  on  the  Saragossa  rly.,  from  which  a  car- 
riage road  leads  to  the  Monastery  on  the  summit  of  the 
mt.  Of  the  old  monastery  founded  in  880  nothing  is 
left  but  a  few  walls  and  one  or  two  towers  in  Byzaatine 


SPAIN.  409 

styis,  dating  from  the  I5tli  century.  The  present  mon- 
astery is  composed  of  immense  buildings,  8  stories  hiffh, 
without  special  character.  The  ch.  is  oeautified  with  a 
portico,  nch  with  statues  and  columns.  The  renown 
of  the  Virgin  of  Monserrat  is  too  well  known  to  need 
mention  here.  From  the  top  of  the  mt.  there  is  a 
splendid  view  of  immense  extent  over  the  hills  of  Ar- 
agon,  the  Pyrenees,  the  Mediterranean  shore,  and  in 
very  clear  weather  as  far  as  the  Balearic  Isbmds.  There 
are  several  grottos  filled  with  stalactites  in  the  Mon- 
serrat mass. 

Tbm  Balearic  Islands.  — There  is  regular  com- 
munioation  between  Barcelona  and  Palma,  the  capital 
of  the  old  Kingdom  of  Majorca,  and  the  chief  town  of 
the  province  which  to-day  bears  the  name  of  Bale- 
ares,  and  which  comprises  the  islands  of  Majorca, 
Minorca,  Ivica,  and  several  others.  Palma  is  a  prctty 
town  with  narrow  strcets,  in  the  midst  of  a  delight- 
ful country.  There  are  a  few  fine  buildings  in  it. 
See  LoHJa,  or  old  Exchange,  begun  in  1426,  finished 
22  years  later :  the  Citadel, lanilt  at  the  close  of  the  16th 
centurv  :  the  Palace  of  the  Captain  General :  the  Cathe- 
dral, founded  1230,  finished  1601.  Majorca  pretends 
to  be  the  cradle  of  the  Bonaparte  family,  because  an 
ancestor  of  that  house,  Hugo  Bonaparte,  a  native  of 
Majorca,  went  in  1411  to  Ck)rsica  as  governor  in  the 
name  of  King  Martin,  when  that  island  Delonged  to  t^e 
Crown  of  Aragon :  —  In  the  Ishnd  of  Minorca,  Port 
Mahon  is  the  principal  town,  much  frequented  by  navi- 
gators of  aU  nations.  The  English  were  there  for  a 
long  time,  and  quitted  the  islana  only  in  1782. 

£Tom  Barcelona  those  who  fiiave  time  may  find  it 
interesting  to  visit  Saragossa  (distance,  229^  M. ;  Cares, 
185  r.  10,  148  r.  86,  101  r.  75).  Fares  from  Saragossa 
to  Madrid,  170  r.  50, 132  t.  14,  81  r. 


410  SARAGOSSA. 

Saragossa  (Fonda  de  Europa  ;  Las  CmUro 
Nacionea);  existed  in  the  time  of  the  Bomans. 
An^stas  Cissar  foanded  a  military  colony  there,  to 
which  he  gave  the  name  of  Csesarea  Augusta,  whence 
the  contraction  Saragossa.    The  rly.  stat.  is  some  dis- 
tance ontside  the  town,  which  has  a  population  of 
86^000,  and  is  situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ebro.     It 
is  renowned  for  its  obstinate  resistance  to  the  army  of 
Napoleon  during  the  memorable  siege  of  1808,  and  still 
shows  marks  of  bullets  on  its  walls.    The  Gate  ofNues- 
tra  Senora  del  Carmen  is  a  noble  memorial  of  the  siege. 
Prom  the  stone  bridge  whidi  unites  the  town  witii  tne 
suburb  of  Altabas  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and 
the  Ch.  of  Our  Lad;/  del  Filar.    This  is  the  object  of 
fervent  devotion  on  the  part  of  Spanish  Catholics. 
According  to  tradition  a  chapel  was  built  here  about  the 
year  40  of  the  Christian  era  by  the  orders  of  the  Vir- 
gin herself,  who  brought  to  it  the  pillar  and  the  statue 
so  much  venerated  to-day.     Even  when  the  mauso- 
leums were   injured  at    Saragossa,   this  chapel  and 
the  pillar  were  preserved.     The  first  stone  of  the 
present  ch.  was  laid  in  1681.     The  interior  is  rather 
naked  and  cold.    There  are,  however,  some  beautiful 
marble  columns  uphcdding  the  sculptured  vault.     In 
the  Sacristy  is  a  fine  Ecce  Homo  attributed  to  Titian. 
The  Ch.  of  San  Salvador,  or  the  Seo,  that  is,  the  Epis- 
copal seat,  is  considered,  however,  as  more  important 
than  the  first  mentioned  one.     It  is  sumptuously  orna- 
mented, and  the  mysterious  twilight  in  tne  5  naves  has 
an  impressivjB  effieet.    Beautiful  sculptures  here  repre- 
senting the  history  of  the  Saviour,  of  the  adoration  of 
the  Magi,  the  Asoedsion,  etc. ;  also  several  fine  tombs. 
The  Traseoro  is  the  work  of  the  celebrated  seulptor 
'"  ''•lilla,  and  the  chapels  are  very  rich.    The  subter- 
ch.   of  Santa   Engracia,   where   repose   the 


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.  SPAIN.  411 

remains  of  many  Christian  martyrs,  who  were  slain  by 
fhe  soldiers  of  Diocletian,  is  interesting.  Tbe  eh.  wa» 
nearly  destroyed  by  an  explosion  in  1808.  The  other 
chs.  are  too  numerous  to  mention.  The  Casa  Muni- 
cipalj  the  Exchange,  with  its  ¥ast  rectangular  hall, 
formed  by  24  beautiful  columns  in  4  rows ;  the  Leanina 
Tower,  built  in  1304 ;  the  Aljaferia,  which  was  a  pal- 
ace of  pleasure  for  the  Arab  km^s ;  the  Bull  Riitg;  a 
great  number  of  beautiful  private  residences ;  the 
University,  which  has  a  library  of  25,000  vols. ;  some 
convents  and  hospitals;  and  the  suburb  of  SafUa 
Engracia,  may  all  be  readily  seen  in  the  course  of  half 
a  day.  From  the  httle  hills  in  the  neighborhood  there 
are  very  pretty  views.  On  the  way  from  Barcelona  ta 
Saragossa  you  pass  through 

Iierida  (/Wt2a /Sotn  2^»«/  BtEspa/h^^.  From  here- 
there  is  rail  to  Tarragona.  The  old  Cathedral  is  a 
magnificent  mass  of  Byzantine  Gothic  remains,  mixed 
with  various  Arabic  styles;  picturesque  and  rich 
cloister.  The  new  Cathedral,  built  under  Charles  III.,. 
is  a  fine  Corinthian  edifice  with  3  naves,  surrounded 
with  a  great  number  of  chapels  and  many  fine  altars. 

The  excursion  to  Saragossa  is  rather  out  of  the 
limits  which  we  had  assigned  for  a  brief  journey 
through  Spain.  We  recommend  the  tourist  to  go 
through  Tarragona  along  the  coast  to  Valencia :  fares 
from  Barcelona  to  Tarragona,  51  r.,  38  r.,  25  r. ;  dis- 
tance, 63J  M. ;  fares  from  Barcelona  to  Valencia, 
174  r.  80, 107  r.  20,  83  r.  60 ;  distance,  173f  M.  You 
leave  Barcelona  very  early  in  the  morning  and  reach 
Valencia  about  8  or  9  in  the  evening.  Take  youi 
provisions  with  you  from  the  hotel.  The  joumer 
affords  a  very  fine  series  of  contrasted  views  of  Spanish- 
scenery.  After  leaving  Tarragona  you  pass  through 
remarkably  wild  scenery  along  the  base  of  rocky  mts. 


4 1 2  TARRAGONA.  —  VALENCIA 

tind  then  descend  into  the  delicious  landscape  in  tbe 
neighborhood  of  Valencia,  filled  with  groves  of  orau^s 
and  lemons,  and  with  a  great  variety  of  semi-tropical 
shrubs. 

Tarragona  {Paris/  Europa;  Ouatro  Nadanes)  is  a 
Tery  old  town  of  about  30,000  inhab.,  once  the  centre 
of  the  Roman  power  in  Spain.  !Not  far  away  are  the 
;sites  of  some  of  Hannibal  s  battles.  Traces  of  the  old 
walls  are  to  be  seen  in  many  points  in  the  city.  Very 
Ancient  ^tes  here.  Some  of  the  modem  residences  are 
built  with  the  debris  of  temples  and  of  Roman  palaces. 
The  Place  of  the  Constitution  is  on  the  site  of  an  old 
Roman  circus.  The  Cathedral  is  Gothic  in  style ;  inte- 
rior vast,  aspect  majestic,  ora^aments  sober  but  heavy, 
pillars  shrouded  in  old  Italian  tapestries,  many  mar- 
ble tombs  and  statues.  In  the  Chapel  of  Corpus 
€hristi  are  the  remains  of  Don  Jaime  I.,  Kingof  Ara- 
gon,  and  his  wife.  Old  Aqueduct  here.  The  next 
place  of  importance  is  Tortosa,  a  stronglv  fortified  city 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Ebro  (42,000  inhab.*).  Imposing 
fortifications.  Cathedral  of  little  importance.  Snortly 
before  reaching  Valencia  you  pass  Murviedro,  near 
which  are  the  ruins  of  the  celebrated  and  ancient  city 
of  Saguntum,  If  you  go  to  these  ruins,  visit  them  at 
midday.  The  population  is  not  aggressive,  but  there 
have  been  brigands  in  the  neighborhood. 

Valencia  (Hdtd  de  Paris/  Vuatro  Nacton^s/  Espaila/ 
J)e  la  Villa  de  Madrid)  is  the  chief  town  (142,000 
inhab.)  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  the  residence 
of  a  captain  general  and  of  the  archbishop.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  great  number  of 
proves  and  gardens.  About  2i  M.  distant  is  its  port., 
?alled  El  Grao,  which  is  accessible  for  large  steam- 
ships. Valencia  may  be  seen  in  lialf  a  day.  The  first 
impression  of  it  is  not  imposing,  but  the  beauties  of  its 


SPAIN.  il3 

ttatural  situation  and  its  arehitecture  grow  upon  one. 
TThe  principal  squares  are  those  of  the  Constitution^ 
vhere  b  the  cily  hall-  that  of  S.  Francesco;  that  of  ^^^ 
Domingo,  a  market-place,  which  is  well  worth  spending 
an  hour  or  two  in  when  the  peasantry  from  the  neigh- 
boring mts.  are  there;  the  celebrated  Exchange  and 
the  Silk  Hall,  The  Audiencia  is  a  fine  building  of  the 
16th  century.  The  principal  halls  are  ornamented  with 
^od  portraits.  The  Archiepiscopal  Palace  is  con- 
nected with  the  Cathedral  by  a  bridge.  In  the  Casa 
de  la  Ciudad  are  some  good  pictures.  The  Cathedral 
elates  from  1262.  The  largest  tower  is  called  El  Min- 
ute, from  the  name  of  the  big  bell  which  was  baptized 
in  the  name  of  S.  Michael.  From  the  platform  of  the 
tower,  splendid  view  of  the  sea  and  the  coast.  The 
interior  is  formed  of  8  vaulted  naves  supported  by 
square  pillars  with  Corinthian  capitals.  High  mass  in 
this  ch.  is  a  splendid  spectacle.  Visit  the  Sala  Capitu- 
lar, immense  quantity  of  relics,  ornaments,  archives, 
books,  and  MSS.  The  Ch.  of  S.  Catalina  has  an  old 
mosaic.  Its  tower  is  beautiful.  In  the  Ch.  of  S.  Juan 
del  Hospital  is  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  empresses  of 
Constantinople.    The  old  home  of  the  Jesuits  is  oocu- 

Eied  by  the  civil  ^vemment.  Very  fine  hospitals 
ere.  The  University  buildings  are  not  remarkable. 
In  the  Collegio  del  Corpus  Christi  is  a  beautiful  Cena 
by  Ribalta.  An  invisible  mechanism  winds  up  this 
canvas  and  opens  4  great  curtains  showing  a  superb 
crucifix,  which  is  much  venerated  by  the  Valencians. 
The  Provincial  Museum  is  in  the  old  convent  of  the 
Merced.  The  Theatre  is  lai^,  but  without  character. 
The  Bull  Ring  is  immense.  The  principal  nromenadiBs 
are  the  Alameda,  the  Botanical  Garden,  ana  the  Olori- 
eta  fvast  prison  here,  1,500  prisoners).  Pretty  walks 
by  nie  banks  of  the  River.     In  the  tobacco-factory. 


414       ALICANTE.  —  ALBACETE. 

3500  women  are  occupied.  The  Valencian  women 
are  renowned  for  their  beauty.  From  Valencia  you 
may  go  to  Alicante  via  La  Eucina. 

Alicante  (Fonda  de  Bossio)  is  a  fine  seaport  (35,000 
inhab.).  The  town  has  no  remaikable  architectural 
features.  The  streets  are  large  and  well  paved.  The 
Alameda  de  la  Reina  is  pretty.  The  Citf  HaUy  flanked 
with  4  towers,  is  quite  imposing.  Neither  of  the  2 
chs.  are  worth  much  study.  The  Convent  of  S.  Clara, 
or  of  the  Holy  Face,  as  it  is  called,  possesses  a  much 
venerated  relic,  the  handkerchief  with  which  S.  Vero- 
nica wiped  the  sweat  from  the  brows  of  the  Saviour. 
The  Citadel  of  S.  Barbara  is  supposed  to  be  impreg- 
nable. You  may  also  go  to  Ahcante  by  Alcoy  and 
Jativa,  This  last  mentioned  town  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated on  a  mt.-chain,  overlooking  a  magnificently  culti- 
vated plain.  On  the  flanks  of  the  hills  are  the  walls  of 
an  old  fortress.  A  French  writer  says  that  the  rly. 
here  seems  to  be  the  alley  through  a. region  of  gardens. 
Beturnin^  from  Alicante  to  La  Encina  you  may  take 
ticket  to  the  Alcazar  de  S,  Juan,  or  directly  to  Madrid. 
On  the  way  you  pass 

Albacete  (Fonda  Frandsquillo),  renowned  for  its 
manufacture  of  knives.  Specimens  of  the  merchandise 
are  always  offered  by  pedlers  to  passengers  on  tlie 
trains.  The  Alcazar  de  S.  Juan  is  where  the  lines  to 
Andalusia  and  to  Portugal  branch  off  from  the  main 
line  from  Madrid  to  Valencia.  It  is  an  old  town  which 
the  Order  of  the  Knights  of  S.  Juan  made  its  head- 
quarters. Decent  refreshment-room  here.  Attend 
carefully  to  your  baggage.  From  the  Alcazar  de  S. 
Juan  to  Cordova  the  journey  is  one  of  the  most  inteiv 
esting  in  Spain,  aud  descends  into  Andalusia.  At  Man- 
zanares  the  line  to  Ciudad  Real  and  Portugal  branches 
"ff.    You  pass  through  Fal  de  Pefias^  whence  you  get 


SPAIN.  415 

a  good  view  uf  the  Sierra  Morena.  Between  the  Alca- 
zar and  the  Yal  de  Peuas  lies  much  of  the  couutrj 
described  in  Don  Quixote.  Many  interesting  points  on 
the  line.  Notice  Almuradiely  and  Filches,  near  which 
is  the  great  plain  where  in  1212  a  Christian  army 
defeated  the  great  Mussulman  hordes  under  the  cora*^- 
mand  of  Mahomed  al  Nassr.  At  Mengibar  there  is  a  fine 
bridge  over  the  Guadalquivir.  At  Andujar  there  is 
little  of  importance  to  be  seen  except  the  large  ch.  in 
what  is  known  as  the  Plateresque  style  of  architecture. 
Cordova  {Fonda  EspafUjIaj  Suizdj  Fimda  de  OrUnte) 
is  an  old  town  of  42,000  inhab.,  situated  in  a  delicious 
plain  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir,  in  full  view  of 
the  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Morena.  Cordova  has  a  sumptu- 
ous museum  of  antiquities :  a  ^reat  collection  of  edifices 
of  all  epochs ;  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  one  long 
street,  the  Calle  de  la  Feria,  the  pnncipal  artery  for  the 
commerce  of  the  city.  The  walls  which  still  surround 
it  are  flanked  with  towers,  octagonal,  cylindrical,  or 
square,  which  were  the  work  of  successive  generations  of 
Saracen  and  Christian  architects.  The  PUitza  de  la  Con- 
stitudon  is  surrounded  b^  fine  buildings.  The  old  stone 
bridge  over  the  stream  is  attributed  to  Octavius  Au- 
gustus. The  principal  objects  of  interest  are  the 
Old  Alcazar,  and  the  garden  of  the  Moorish  kings, 
adjacent  to  it.  For  permission  to  enter  address  tfie 
porter.  The  New  Alcazar  is  to-day  a  prison.  The 
Episcopal  Palace  is  built  of  very  rich  materials,  but  not 
in  remarkably  good  taste :  fine  gardens  and  good  li- 
brary. Curious  collection  of  portraits  of  all  the  bishops 
of  Cordova.  Near  this  palace  is  the  Triunfo,  a  hand- 
some marble  monument,  surmounted  with  a  column 
which  bears  a  gilded  bronse  statue  of  St.  Raphael.  A 
great  number  of  the  houses  in  the  city  are  ornamented 
with  inscriptions  in  honor  of  emperors,  consuls,  magis- 


416  CORDOVA. 

trails,  etc.    The  modem  Bull  Ring  is  near  tbe  rly. 
Stat. 

The  Mosque,  now  the  Cathedral,  is  certainly  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  edifices  in  the  world.  It  was 
founded  in  786  by  Abdurrahman  I.,  and  completed  by  bis 
son  in  794.  The  exterior  is  rather  gloomy :  the  court- 
yard within,  remarkably  beautiful.  It  has  colonnades 
on  3  sides,  with  fountains  in  the  centre;  and  is  planted 
with  orange  and  cypress  trees.  The  interior  of  the 
Cathedral  has  been  somewhat  aptly  described  as  a 
"marble  grove."  The  roof  is  supported  by  a  vast 
number  of  slender  pillars,  beautifully  wrought  with  Co« 
rintliian  capitals  and  shafts  of  various  colored  marbles, 
of  jasper,  porphyiy,  etc.  The  principal  entrance,  called 
the  Fuerta  del  Perdon,  is  in  front  of  the  6th  nave  on  the 
W.  side.  The  Mihrab,  or  the  Holy  of  Holies,  is  very 
curious.  The  Mosque  was  converted  into  a  Cathedral 
on  the  25th  of  June,  1236.  In  the  CoUgiata  de  San 
Hipolito  are  two  urns  containing  the  ashes  of  King 
Alfonso  XI.  and  his  father  Ferdinand  IV. :  also  the 
tomb  of  the  celebrated  chronicler  Ambrosio  de  Morales. 
The  chs.  of  S.  Pedro  and  of  S.  Marina  are  also  worth 
seeing.  The  Convent  o/S.  Pablo  has  beautiful  eloisters 
and  a  magnificent  staircase.  Many  other  convents  are 
rich  in  works  of  art.  Just  outside  the  town  is  tbe 
sanctuary  of  our  Lady  of  la  Fuen  Santa :  great  public 
festival  here  on  the  8th,  9th,  and  10th  of  Sept.  An 
excursion  to  the  Ermitas  in  the  Sierra  Morena  is  worth 
while.  From  Cordova  to  Granada  the  distance  is 
153J  M.  On  the  way  you  pass  Moniilla,  which  is 
one  of  the  most  beaunful  places  in  Andalusia.  Here 
the  Great  Captain,  Gonzalvo  de  Cordova,  was  honu 
At  Bobadilla  a  branch  line  to  the  r.  goes  to  Malaga, 
(refreshment  room  here).     Antequera  is  an  old  fortress, 

id  to  have  been  built  in  Roman    times.    Notico' 


SPAIN.  417 

the  colossal  bronze  angel  on  the  cupola  of  the  ch.  of 
San  Sebastian :  also  the  Arch  of  Rer rules ,  a  Roman 
ruin. 

Qranada  (Hotels :  Fonda  de  Alameda ;  Victoria  ; 
MhiTopa;  De  las  Siete  Sueloa;  Washington  Irviii^ ; 
CoMM  de  Pupiloa),  a  city  of  72,000  inhab.,  is  world 
famous,  and  we  shall  only  briefly  indicate  the  best  way 
to  visit  the  Alhambra  and  the  other  curiosities  of  the 
town  in  a  shoi*t  time.  Granada  is  grouped  on  the  slopes 
of  3  hills.  The  Torres  Bermejas,  or  Scarlet  Towers,  so 
called  because  of  their  color,  are  on  the  first  and  the  last 
of  these  hills.  The  Alhambra,  which  is  a  city  in  itself, 
covers  the  second  and  the  highest.  The  Albaycin  is  on 
the  tliird,  separated  from  the  others  by  a  deep  ravine 
filled  with  rank  vegetation.  Through  this  ravine  runs 
the  torrent  of  the  Darro.  Granada  itself  is  divided  into 
4  large  sections.  The  modern  city  occupies  the  part  of 
the  valley  between  the  hills  of  the  Albaycin  and  the 
Alhambra.  Notice  the  Plaza  del  Triunfoy  at  the  end 
of  which  is  the  Bull  Ring.  On  this  Plaza  is  a  white 
marble  column,  with  statue  of  the  Virgin.  Here  also 
are  the  Royal  Hospital  and  the  Convent  of  the  Merced. 
On  the  Plaza  Nueva,  reached  by  the  Zacatin,  is  the  fine 
edifice  of  the  Audiencia.  See  the  statue  of  San  Onofrio. 
Here  is  a  University,  with  rich  library  and  a  rather 
inferior  collection  of  pictures.  The  Cathedral,  to  be 
seen  from  8  a.m.  to  noon,  and  3  to  5  p.m.,  has  a  fine 
front  ornamented  with  statues  and  bas-reliefs.  Interior 
has  5  naves,  supported  by  20  enormous  pillars,  formed 
of  columns  grouped  together.  The  Door  of  the  Pardon 
is  very  fine.  The  Capilla  del  Pilar  is  filled  with  beau- 
tiful marbles.  See  the  group  of  "  Charity  "  in  the  Sala 
Capitular,  the  work  of  Torrigiani,  the  Florentine  artist, 
who  was  the  rival  of  Michael  Angelo.  The  Capiltn 
Mayor  is  one  of  the  most  richly  decorated  in  Spaiu. 
27 


418     GRANADA-  —  THE  ALHAMBRA. 

The  Uoyal  Chapel  was  built  to  receive  the  remains  of 
JTerdinand  and  Isabella,  and  here  are  their  tombs.  The 
two  royal  statues  lie  on  the  sarcophagus :  two  lions 
repose  at  their  feet.  Here  are  the  crown  and  sceptre 
of  Isabella,  and  the  sword  of  Ferdinand.  In  a  second 
mausoleum  near  by  are  the  remains  of  Queen  Joanna, 
who  was  insane,  and  of  Philip  her  husband.  The  tower 
of  the  Cathedral  is  unfinished. 

The  Alhambra  is  open  from  10  to  noon,  and  from 
S  to  5  P.M.     Leaving  the  Plaza  Nueva  you  scale  the 
Cueita  de  los  Gomeles.     At  the  top  of  this  street  you 
find  the  Pueria  de  las  Granadas,  a  kind  of  triumphal 
arch  built  by  Charles  V.,  where  formerly  stood  an  an- 
cient Arabic  gate.     Beyond  this  lie  the  groves  and  the 
gardens  which  surround,  the  Alhambra.     We  will  sim ply 
enumerate  the  objects  to  be  seen.    The  Filar  de  Car- 
los F.y  ornamented  with  statues ;  the  Puerta  de  Juido, 
or  Door  of  Judgment ;  the  Plaza  de  los  Algibes,  or 
Place  of  the  Cisterns ;  the  Puerta  del  Fim  ;  the  Palace 
of  Charles  F.,  a  fine  Renaissance  structure,  but  un- 
miished.     The  centre  is  occupied  by  a  circular  patio  or 
court,  surrounded  by  a  vaulted  gallery  supported  by  32 
Doric  columns  in  marble.     The  Alhambra,  a  marveUous 
Arabic  palace,  occupied  a  rectangle  of  400  ft.  long  by 
250  wide.     It  comprised  5  interior  courts.    The  prin- 
cipal fagade,  which  was  to  the  N.,  was  demolished  to 
make  room  for  the  Palace  of  Charles  V.     Its  main 
cntranee  opened  on  the  Patio  de  los  Arrayanes,  and  ^ou 
can  only  enter  it  to-day  through  a  small  corridor  behind 
the  N.  %ade  of  the  Imperial  palace.     In  the  Patio  de 
los  Arrayanes  is  the  famous  Alnambra  Vase^  the  finest 
known  monument  of  Hispano-Moresque  faience.    The 
HaU  of  the  Ambassadors ^  the  Tocador,  and  the  Mirador^ 
or  toilet  rooms  of  the  Queen,  the  Patio  de  la  Mezguita, 
the  Hall  of  the  Baths,  the  Patio  de  las  B^as,  the  Court 


SPAIN.  419 

of  Lions,  the  most  precious  specimen  of  Arabesque 
Architecture  in  Spain,  with  128  white  marble  columns 
la  the  galleries  surrounding  it,  with  a  floor  of  white 
marble,  a  noble  fountain,  and  12  great  sculptured  lions. 
The  Halls  of  the  Tribunal,  of  the  Bos  Hermanas  (the 
Two  Sisters),  and  the  Rail  of  the  Abencerrages,  should 
be  carefully  studied.     The  Royal  Chapel,  which  is  rarely 
open,  contains  a  great  variety  of  artistic  treasures.  From 
the  platform  of  the  Tower  of  the  Vela  there  is  an 
admirable  view.     Visit  also  the  Adarves,  a  line  of  old 
bastions  transformed  into  gardens,  also  the  ch.  of  Santa 
Maria,  the  Towers  of  the  Cautivas,  of  the  Garceles,  of 
Los  Siete  Suelos,  del  Agua,  de  las  Infantas  and  many 
others,  should  be  carefully  inspected.      To  visit  the 
{jreneralife  you  leave  by  the  Los  Picos  Gate,  and  go 
down  the  hul  by  a  route  which  crosses  the  ravine  of  Los 
Molinos,  and  which  then  climbs  the  foot  of  the  hills  of 
a  neighboring  mt.     The   Otneralife  was  the  pleasure 
house  of  the  Alhambra.     But  little  remains  of  it  except 
a  few  arcades  and  some  beautiful  arabesques.     In  one 
of  the  few  halls  which  are  still  covered  with  a  roof,  there 
is  a  series  of  smoky  portraits  of  the  Kings  of  Spain, 
which  have  only  a  chronological  merit.     "Prom  the 
Tower  of 'the  Generalife,"  says  a  French  writer,  "  you 
fancy  that  you  can  touch  the  Sierra  Nevada,  so  pure 
and  limpid  is  the  air  through  which  you  see  that  moun* 
tain  cham."    There  are  a  great  many  beautiful  excur- 
sions in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Alhambra,  but  to 
enjoy  them  one  must  remain  in  the  vicinity  at  least  a 
week.    The  ^ypsy  encampments  in  the  country-side  are 
very  interestmg,  out  the  prudent  traveller  will  scarcely 
care  to  venture  among  them  without  a  stout  escort. 
From  Granada  the  distance  to  Malaga  by  rail  is  119  M. 
Malaga  {Roma,  on  the  Alameda;  Roydl  Victoria; 
lluevo;  Inglaterra,  second  class,  but  good),  with  135,000 


420  l^IALAGA.  —  GIBRALTAR. 

inhab.,  may  be  easily  seen  in  half  a  day.  The  exqiusite 
climate  and  the  beautiful  situation  of  the  town  are  its 
chief  attractions.  The  Episcopal  Palax;e,  the  City  Hall^ 
the  new  Custom  House,  the  Theatre,  which  can  contain 
2,000  spectators,  the  vast  Bull  Ring,  which  holds 
10,000,  are  not  architecturally  remarkable.  The  Al- 
cazaba  is  an  ancient  fortress  which  antedates  the 
Arabic  occupation.  The  Aiarazana  is  an  old  arsenal 
of  the  Moors.  The  Castle  of  Gihalfaro  is  on  a  hill  to 
the  E.  of  the  city.  The  highest  tower  is  an  imposing 
mass  sustained  by  4  arches  and  n-early  100  ft.  high. 
Good  view  from  tliis  tower.  The  most  oeautiful  prom- 
enade in  this  town  is  the  Alameda :  many  pretty  foun- 
tains and  statues  here.  The  Cathedral,  which  would  be 
rich  in  any  other  country,  is  not  remarkable  for  Spain. 
All  through  this  country  grow  wheat,  oats,  ohves,  all 
kinds  of  miit :  orange,  lemon,  and  fig  trees  are  abun- 
dant. Try  and  time  your  visit  to  Granada  so  as  to 
connect  with  the  steamer  going  to  Gibraltar. 

Gibraltar (i&^d^y  King's  Arms;  Europa)  is  a 
city  situated  on  a  slope  on  the  W.  part  of  the  famous 
rock  and  facing  the  bav.  It  has  about  20,000  inbab. 
exclusive  of  the  English  gamson  of  6,000  men.  Ifaitt 
Street  is  the  principal  artery  of  the  town.  A  narrow- 
road  connects  tlie  mainland  with  the  rock,  and  this  is 
yarded  by  batteries.  Erom  top  to  bottom  the  mt. 
is  full  of  excavations,  and  out  ot  every  one  looks  tlie 
mouth  of  a  cannon.  At  the  summit  is  an  unfinished 
tower,  called  the  St.  George^ s.  It  was  intended  to  be 
sufficiently  high  to  enable  the  sentinels  to  overlook  the 
Bay  of  Cadiz  and  see  the  movements  there.  In  1704 
the  English  fleet,  sustaining  the  rights  of  the  Archduke 
Charles  of  Austria  to  the  crown  of  Spain  against 
Philip  v.,  presented  itself  before  Gibraltar,  the  fortifi- 
cations of  which  were  then  in  ruins  and  occupied  by  a 


SPAIN.  421 

garrlsoD  of  80  men.  The  town  was  taken,  and 
although  in  the  name  of  the  archduke,  England 
thought  it  proper  to  keep  it.  Various  attempts  to  take 
it  back  were  made  in  1727, 1779,  and  1782,.  but  with, 
out  success.  The  fortifications  can  be  visited  with 
special  permission,  which  may  be  easily  obtained  at 
the  hotels.  There  is  also  a  good  club  to  which 
strangers  may  be  presented.  Excursions  may  be  made 
from  Gibraltar  to  several  interesting  points  on  the 
African  coast,  notablj^  Geuta  and  Tangier.  From 
Gibraltar  you  cap  easily  get  steamship  to  Cadiz,  as 
nearly  all  the  trading  boats  along  the  coast  stop  at 
these  places.  The  voyage  is  usually  about  10  hrs. 
ItyThe  people  at  the  hotels  do  not  warn  you  of  the 
approach  of  the  steamers.    Landing  facilities  bad. 

Cadiz  (Hotels :  Fonda  dePa/ris/  Fonda  de  JPVanda/' 
Fonda  de  Cadiz  j  De  la  Amerioa;  Be  Eurofpa;  Be  la» 
Cuatro  Naciones)  is  one  of  the  most  chsHrming  of 
Spanish  towns  (64,000  inhab.).  It  is  on  a  peninsula, 
which  extends  into  the  ocean,  and  is  generally  consid- 
ered the  most  agreeable  town  in  Andalusia.  It  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  its  position  is  weH  calculated  for 
defence.  Notice  the  Fort  of  8.  Caialina:  also  the 
Fort  of  S.  Sebastian.  From  the  Torre  de  la  Figia,  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  you  get  an  admirable  view  of  Cadiz 
and  its  surroundings.  Nearljr  all  the  houses  are  white, 
and  their  terraces  and  balconies  are  very  picturesque. 
The  (Jasas  Consistoriales  occupy  fine  buildings  on  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion.  The  Alameda  is  a  fine  prorne- 
nade  on  one  of  the  ramparts  N.  E.  of  tlie  city.  There 
are  two  handsome  theatres,  a  Bull  Ring,  and  a  large 
number  of  colleges  and  seminaries,  as  well  as  an  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts  and  numerous  libraries.  The  new  Cathe- 
draly  which  is  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  is  not  a  very 
successful  piece  of  architecture.  A  great  profusion  of 
marbles  have  been  used  in  its  decoration,  but  the  ? 


422  CADIZ.  —  SEVILLE. 

<«ral  effect  is  eon&ised  and  disagreeable.  The  Treasury 
is  rich  ha  relics,  jewels,  etc.  The  old  Cathedral  has 
fallen  into  decay.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Convent  of  S. 
Catalinaare  many  pictures  by  Murillo.  Steam  com- 
munication between  Cadiz  and  Portugal,  England,  Hol- 
land, the  French  and  German  coasts,  and  Mexico,  is 
very  frequent. 

lou  may  go  from  Cadiz  to  Seville  by  steamboat,  on 
the  Guadalquivir,  in  8  nrs. ;  fares,  60  r. ;  breakfast  on 
board  from  8  to  12  r.  The  journey  is  pretty,  but  most 
travellers  will  probably  prefer  the  rail  route,  about 
82f  M. ;  passing  through  Jerez  de  la  Fr outer a^  a  pretty 
town,  ennched  by  commerce  in  wine  and  other  products 
■of  its  generous  soil.  Here  see  curious  monastery, 
museum,  finely  decorated  city  hall.  About  2  M.  S.  E. 
^f  the  town  is  a  iK)ted  Carthusian  monastery. 

S6Till9  {H6teL  de  Madrid;  Las  OuiUro  Naciones  / 
JngUUerra;  De  Paris),  with  138,000  inhab.,  re- 
quires a  long  visit.  We  will  not  attempt  to  describe 
it  in  details,  but  vnll  simply  indicate  the  things 
to  see.  Seville  has  kept  its  ancient  chai^acter  pretty 
well.  Mosrt  of  its  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  and 
nearly  all  the  houses  have  their  patios,  or  inner  court- 
yards, separated  from  the  street  by  vestibules  paved 
with  white  and  black  marble,  and  closed  by  doors  of 
iron  gratings  beautifully  worked  by  skilful  artisans. 
The  Plazit  Nueva  is  a  vast  square  which  in  the  morn- 
ing is  inundated  with  sunlight,  and  is  planted  witli 
oranffe-trees,  and  surrounded  on  three  siaes  by  hotels 
^nd  boarding-houses,  and  on  the  fourth  by  the  Palace 
of  the  Ayuntamiento.  The  Calle  de  Genova,  at  the 
S.  W.  angle  of  the  square,  leads  to  the 

Catibedral.  —  This  marvellous  ch.,  with  its  famous 
tower  of  the  Giralda,  is  a  city  in  itself.  Nowhere  else 
in  Europe  is  the  splendor  and  majesty  of  the  Cath'^.Uo 


SPAIN.  42a 

religion  so  well  seen  as  here.  The  Giralda,  »  rcritable 
marvel  of  Arab  arcliitecture,  was  the  minaret  of  the  old 
mosque  of  the  Moorish  Kings^who  governed  Seville 
affcer  the  destruction  of  the  Khalifate.  It  was  built  dnr- 
ing  the  12th  century  by  the  Arab  El  Ghebir,  who  was 
the  inventor  of  algebra.  The  tower  is  356  ft.  high. 
In  1568  it  was  capped  with  a  belfry,  whiefa  in  its  turn  is 
surmounted  by  an  enormous  statue  of  faith,  which 
despite  its  immense  weight  serves  as  a  weather-vane. 
The  Cathedral  proper  was  begun  in  1403,  finished  1519. 
The  most  striking  entrance  is  the  Puerta  dei  Perdon, 
which  was  probably  in  old  times  the  entrance  to  a 
minaret.  It  opens  on  the  Orange  Court,  from  which 
you  pass  under  a  fine  Arabic  arch  into  the  Cathedral  by 
the  so-called  Lizard  Door.  Notice  especially  tlie  Chief 
Altary  the  6%oi>,  the  gigantic  Organ»y  tlie  Ton^  of' 
Fernando  Columbus,  the  Gapilla  Beal,  which  contains 
the  tomb  of  St.  Ferdinand,  and  the  tomb  of  Alfonso  the 
Wise :  also  a  portrait  of  Ferdinand,  by  MuriHo,  in  th& 
chapel  of  the  Baptistery.  Observe  the  noted  picture  rep- 
resenting St.  Anthony  of  Padua,  which  was  cut  out  of 
its  frame  and  carried  off  to  New  York  in  1875,  and  has 
now  been  restored.  In  the  upper  sacristy  there  are 
also  several  paintings  by  the  same  artist*  In  the 
sacristy  of  Los  Calices  is  a  St.  Dorothea  by  Murillo, 
an  "  Eooe  Homo ''  by  Morales,  and  a  remarkable 
painting  by  Goya.  In  the  Saerisiia  Mayor  is  the 
vast  and  magnificent  custodia  in  silver  made  in  1587 
by  Juan  de  Arfe.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  circular 
temple,  crowned  with  a  statue  of  St.  John  and  covered 
with  a  most  prodigious  number  of  ornaments  and 
statues.  Seville  during  Holy  Week  presents  a  con- 
stant  succession  of  curious  spectacles,  religious  i» 
character.  From  the  top  ^f  the  GKralda  Tower^ 
which  is    reached  by  an  inclined  plane,   up  whicb 


424  SEVILLE.  —  THE  ALCAZAR. 

it  b  «u<i  two  lioraes  can  be  ridden  abreast,  good  view 
of  the  town,  the  river  winding  through  the  plains, 
^nd  the  hills  beyond.  Leaving  the  Cathedral  by  the 
<j%ralda  Ihwr,  you  reach  the  square  on  whicli  is  the 
Archbishop's  Palace.  Thence  go  round  the  Cathedral 
to  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo,  where  is  a  monument  com- 
memorating the  earth<|uake  of  1755.  In  the  middle  of 
:this  square  is  the  Lonja,  where  is  a  precious  collection 
of  documents  relative  to  the  discovery  and  conquest  oi 
America.  Tliis  is  called  the  Indian  archives.  Not  far 
^way  is 

The  Alcazar. — This  is,  with  the  Mosque  at  Cordova 
.and  the  AJhambra  at  Granada,  the  most  beautiful 
Moorish  monument  in  Spain.  It  was  connected  with 
iihe  great  walls  that  ran  round  Seville  in  the  time  of 
the  Aiiibs.  In  the  Alcazar  were  bom  and  died  the 
Kings  Alfonso  the  Wise,  Don  Sancho  IV.,  and  Alfonso 
XI.,  father  of  Don  Pedro  the  Cruel.  The  local  gaides, 
who  are  very  civil  and  obliging,  and  satisfied  with 
reasonable  pay,  will  give  you  full  description  of  the 
t)eautie8  of  the  Alcazar.  Ask  the  guide  to  take  yoa 
througtitbe  modem  rojal  rooms,  inhabited  by  the 
Monarchs  of  Spain  whenever  they  visit  Seville. 
The  gardens  of  the  Alcazar  are  delightful.  The  Casa 
de  Pilal08f  or  House  of  Pilate,  is  an  edifice  built  at  the 
beginning  of  iixe  16  th  century,  by  the  first  Marquis  of 
Tarifa.  He  had  brought  back  from  a  journey  made  to 
Jerusalem  in  1519  a  quantity  of  earth  from  the  very 
house  of  Pontius  Pilate,  and  this  was  sufficient  to  form 
the  layw  on  which  were  laid  the  foundations  of  the 

f  resent  palaee,  built  on  the  plans  of  the  dwelling  of 
^ilate  at  Jemsalem,  which  Home  reproduced.  Here 
1;ake  place  the  scenes  of  the  Passion.  There  are  a  great 
number  of  curious  and  interesting  palaces  im,d  pri- 
^ate  houses  to  be  seen  in  Seville.    The  CSo^a  de  lot 


SPAIN.  425 

Taveros,  where  the  tribanal  of  the  Inquisition  had  its 
sitting,   will   attract   the  traveller's  attention.     The 
guides  procure  admission  for  you  to  the  patios  of  the 
richest  houses,  where  you  can  get  an  idea  of  the  luxury 
and  beauty  of  these  southern  Spanish  residences.    The 
Ch.  ofS.  Martino  has  some  good  pictures.    The  Hos- 
pital of  La  Caridady  or  the  Chanty,  near  the  Qolden 
Tower,  which  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir, 
contains  several  of  Murillo's  best  paintings.     The  pro- 
vincial museum  is  also  quite  rich  in  the  works  of 
Murillo,  Zurbaran,  and  other  noted  artists.    Murillo 
was  born  in  Seville,  Jan.  1,  1618.    The  Palace  of  San 
Telmo,  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Montpensier,  is 
one  of  the  marvels  of  this  city.    It  contains  a  very 
beautiful  and  valuable  picture-gallery.      Seville  is  as 
busy  and  thriving  as  Cordova  is  deserted  and  shabby. 
The  banks  of  the  Guadalquivir  are  lined  witli  ware- 
houses, and  the  traffic  is  very  brisk.    From  Seville,  if 
you  adopt  our  plan  for  a  shoiit  Spanish  journey,  we 
recommend  you  to  proceed  directly  to  Madrid.     If  you 
have  not  stopped  at  Cordova  on  your  way  down,  out 
have  gone  directly  through  from  the  Alcazar  de  S. 
Juan,  as  many  do,  you  may  halt  there  on  your  return 
journey.     Time  from  Seville  to  Cordova,  nearly  4  hrs. ; 
fares,   65  f.   60,  49  r.  20,  29  r.  45.     From  Cordova 
to  Madrid  it  is  274J  M. ;   time  by  ordinary  trains, 
16  hrs. ;  fares,  321  r.,  171  r.,  104  r.  98.     The  express 
rates  are  somewhat  higher.     In  the  late  summer  and 
autumn  months  there  is  an  express  train,  3  times  a 
week  each  way,  between  Madrid  and  Seville.    Between 
the  Alcazar  ae  S.  Juan  and  Madrid  is  the  station  of 
CasHUijOf  where  you  may  branch  off  to  Toledo,  but  we 
do  not  recommend  this.    It  is  better  to  go  to  Madrid 
first ;  then  to  make  the  Toledo  visit  a  round-trip  excur- 
sion of  one  day.     A  little  beyond  Castillijo  is 


426  ARANJUEZ.  —  MADRID. 

Arai^ues,  vith  refreshment  buffet.  This  is  one  of 
the  summer  residences  of  the  Spanish  court.  Here  is 
a  palace,  beautifully  situated,  commanding  an  immense 
yiew ;  but  there  is  little  that  is  architecturally  striking 
in  the  building.  The  gardens  are  quite  remarkable. 
The  river  Tagus  flows  through  the  domain. 

Ma6iid  {Grand  Hotd  de  la  Pomh ;  Be  Borne;  Be 
Paris/  Fonda  de  los  Embc^adores ;  Be  Bristol: 
Peninsular;  Continental;  Oriente),  with  610,000 
inhab.,  is  the  ca})ital  of  Spain,  the  residence  of  the 
Court,  and  contains  the  finest  paintings  in  Europe. 
John  Hay  said  of  Madrid  that  it  was  a  "capital 
with  malice  aforethought,"  by  which  he  alluded  to  its 
situation  in  the  midst  of  a  great  arid  plain,  swept  in 
winter  by  the  murderous  winds  from  the  mts.  We 
recommend  the  tourist  to  devote  his  chief  attention  to 
the  museum ;  then,  if  it  be  necessary,  to  include  the 
other  edifices  and  collections  of  Madrid. 

The  Eqyal  Museum  contains  a  vast  and  absolutely 
unrivalled  collection  of  the  works  of  the  old  masters, 
but  they  are  not  very  well  arranged.  Two  immense 
galleries  are  consecrated  to  Spanisn  painters,  and  oth- 
ers contain  the  different  Italian,  French,  Flemish,  and 
Dutch  schools.  Some  idea  of  the  riches  of  the  museum 
can  be  formed  from  the  statement  that  it  contains  4<6 
pictures  by  Murillo,  14  by  Zurbaran,  58  by  Bibera, 
64  by  Veksquez,  55  hj  Teniers,  16  by  Eubens,  10 
by  Raphael,  20  by  Poussin,  66  by  Luca  Giordano,  22 
by  Van  Dyck,  54  by  Breughel,  16  by  Claude  Lorraine, 
1*6  by  Guido  Reni,  43  by  Titian,  64  by  Tintoretto, 
and  25  by  Paul  Veronese,  About  half-way  down 
the  principal  gallery  a  door  opens  into  an  oval  hall 
called  the  Salon  de  la  Ueyna  Isabel.  Here  are  grouped 
together  the  chefs  d'oeuvre  of  the  museum.  The 
guardians  are  very  attentive.     Catalogues  edited  with 


SPAIN.  427 

grreat  care  may  be  had  at  the  bookseUers',  oi  «t  the 
museum. 

In  the  Academy  of  San  Fernando  in  the  Calle  de 
Alcai4  there  is  a  collection  of  about  300  pictures,  in  11 
large  rooms :  MuriJlo,  Goya,  Rubens,  and  Zurbaran  are 
veil  represented.  The  National  Mnsewn  is  in  the  old 
convent  of  the  Tiinidad.  Here  are  about  800  paintings. 
There  are  several  interesting  private  collections  in 
Madrid.  The  couriers  at  the  hotels  wil{  indicate  them. 
to  you. 

The  Royal  Palace  (Falacia  Real),  is  situated  in  th& 
W.  part  or  the  town.     Among  the  30  rooms  on  the  1st . 
floor,  the  largest  and  finest  is  the  Hall  ^f  the  Ambassa- 
dors,   The  vault  was  painted  by  Tiepolu,  and  represents- . 
the  exaltation  of  the  Spanish  monarohu.    The  walls  are 
draped  with  velvet  embroidered  with  gold,  and  12  im- 
mense  mirrors  also  decorate  it.    On  tKe  r.  of  the  throne, 
which  is  guarded  by  4  gilded  bronze  lions,  is  a  statue  of 
Prudence,  and  on  the  I.  that  of  Justice.     Tlie  chapel  is 
extremely  rich,  but  not  very  handsome.    The  library, 
the  theatre,  the  magnificent  collection  of  Flemish  tapes- 
tries, should  be  seen.    On  the  8.  of  the  square  of  the  ra- 
lacia  Real  is  the  Armeria,  or  Museum  of^  Armor,  which 
will  be  extremely  interesting  to  Americans.    Here 
are,  among  many  relics  of  famous  dead,  the  sword  ' 
of  the  Old  Gampeador,  that  of  the  Great  Captain,  6on* 
zalvo  of  Cordova,  and  that  of  Don  Juan  of  Austria: 
also  the  helmet  of  Francis  I.     The  Military  Museum 
of  Artillery,  at  the  Buenretiro,  is  also  worth  visiting. 
At  the  entrance  are  colossal  stafcues  of  Philip  IV.  and 
Louis  I.    The  museum  gives  a  ^complete  review  of  the 
progress  made  in  artillery  from  the  13th  to  the  17th 
centurv.    Here  also  are  many  flags  carried  during  tho 
Spanish  conquest  of  America      The  naval  museum, 
the  cabinet  of  natural  history,  the  botanical  garden,  tho 


458  MADRID. 

library  (small  bat  good)  deserve  a  visit.  Madrid  has 
several  important  libraries,  most  noticeable  among 
which  ard  tiiose  of  the  University  and  of  the  legislative 
bodies. 

The  Palace  of  the  Congress,  or  Chamber  of  Deputies, 
is  a  handsome  onilding,  out  not  very  remarj&able.  Its 
interior  is  very  richly  ornamented  with  fine  painting^s : 
that  of  the  Senate  occupies  the  old  ch.  of -an  Auffu&tia- 
ian  convent.  In  the  great  square  of  the  Puerta  ^1  Sol 
is  the  Ministry  of  the  Interior,  formerly  a  post>oMce. 
The  other  public  buildings  and  the  Pahuces  are  raider 
cold  and  formal  in  structure.  The  effect  of  tlie  architec- 
ture of  Madrid  is  not  pleasing,  compared  with  theryou- 
derful  richness  of  decoration  to  which  the  e^e' has 
become  accustomed  in  Southern  Spain.  See  in  the 
Flaza  Mayor  the  equestrian  statue  of  Philip  III. ;  and 
in  the  Fhza  de  Oriente  the  statue  of  Philip  IV.  ^  lu 
the  Plaza  de  las  Cortes  is  a  statue  of  Cervantes.  None 
of  the  ohs.  of  the  Spanish  capital  is  particularly^jjK^k- 
ing :  there  is  not  even  a  cathedral  here.  The  Ch,  of 
the  Atocha  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Prado  containa  the 
tombs  of  General  Castanos,  of  Marshal  Prim,  and  of 
other  notabilities.  Here  the  marriages  of  the  Royal 
familv  are  celebrated,  and  here  the  troops  take  the  oath 
of  tdfeffiance.  The  cemeteries  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Madrid,  with  their  lon^  rows  of  walls  in  which  the  dead 
are  sealed  up,  are  very  mteresting.  The  Plaza  di  Toros, 
or  the  Bull  King  of  Madrid,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
kingdom.  It  is  a  structure  in  Arabic  style,  built  of 
brick,  stone,  and  iron,  and  can  seat  12,300  people. 
EveiT  seat  is  numbered,  and  tickets  to  the  bull-fights, 
which  are  usually  given  every  Monday  from  Apnl  to 
October,  are  comparatively  inexpensive.  Be  careful  in 
choosing  your  place  to  note  whether  it  is  on  the  shady 
^he  sunny  ude.    This  is  very  important  in  Spain. 


SPAIN.  429 

The  comic  opera  and  some  of  the  minor  theatres  should 
be  visited.  The  Frado  is  a  large  boulevard  which 
runs  round  a  great  part  of  tlie  city,  from  the  old  Atocha 
^te  to  the  Puerta  ae  B^coletos.  The  Royal  MuMum 
IS  on  this  boulevard.  Here  on  summer  evenings  is  a 
magnificent  display  of  Spanish  beauty :  oommemorative 
monument  here  to  the  Ihecond  of  May,  one  of  the  epi- 
sddes  or  the  French  occupation  of  1808.  There  are 
numerpus  el^er  fine  promenades  within  the  city.  The 
Pnerfa  de  '^Icald,  an  arch  of  triumph  to  commemorate 
the  fentw  of  Charles  III.  into  Madrid,  may  bis  seen  on 
the  ij^  to  the  Bull  Ring.  The  Puerta  de  Toledo  was 
builijK)  celebrate  the  return  of  Ferdinand  YII.  &om  his 
captivity.  The  Flaza  de  San  Fieente  is  quite  fine. 
There  are  se^ggal  bridges  over  the  little  river  Manza- 
nar^s,  whick^Hdly  enough  is  for  the  gpreater  part  of  the 
year  without  any  water  in  its  channel.  The  tobacco 
factory  in  the  Qalle  de  Embajadores  employs  3,000 
wopMren.  About  7  M.  from  Madrid,  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Manzanares,  is  the  Royal  Palace  of  the  Pardo, 
Excursion  to  the  Bscturlal  may  be  made.  It  is  31^  M. 
from  Madrid ;  five  trains  daily ;  fares,  25  r.  50, 19  r.  25, 
11  r.  50.  The  Escurial  is  called  by  the  Spaniards  the 
eighth  wonder  of  the  world.  Philip  II.  built  it  in  1685 
to  commemorate  the  taking  of  St.  Quentin,  and  to  ac- 
complish a  vow  which  he  made  to  St.  Lawrence.  This 
vast  building  has  15  principal  entrances,  and  more  than 
1,100  windows.  It  is  entirely  built  of  granite,  and  its 
appearance  is  monotonous  and  coM.  The  ch.,  the 
Cfapilla  Mayor,  filled  with  royal  monuments,  the  sac- 
risty, a  vast  vaulted  hall  with  a  marble  altar  orna- 
mented with  bronze,  the  choir,  and  the  pantheon  or 
vault,  where  the  kings  of  Spain  are  buried,  are  the  prin* 
cipal  things  to  see.  You  reach  the  pantheon  by  % 
.  magnificent  stair'^ase  of  colored  marbles.     The  nam  co 


430  TOLEDO. 

taining  tbe  remains  of  Charles  Y.  was  opened  in  1870, 
and  the  body  was  even  tben  in  perfect  preservation. 
The  Library  of  books  and  the  MS.  Library  will  attract 
the  attention  of  scholars.  The  main  entrance  to  the 
palace  is  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  fapade.  See  tbe  Hall 
cf  Battles,  covered  with  frescos  re])resenting  Spanish 
conquests ;  and  the  apartments  in  which  Philip  II.  lived 
and  died.  TheFavinon  of  Charles  lY.,  callea  the  Casa 
del  Principe,  is  a  charming  little  museum  of  paintings, 
sculptures,  and  mosaics.  See  the  King'^s  Seat,  where 
Philip  II.  came  to  sit  when  presiding  over  the  work  of 
the  palace.  The  royal  abode  of  La  Granja  is  on  tbe 
route  from  Madrid  to  Se^via.  Its  apartments  are  said 
to  be  even  more  splendid  than  those  of  the  palace  at 
Madrid. 

There  are  two  routes  from  Madrid  to  the  ancient  and 
picturesque  town  of  Toledo.  One  leads  through  the 
royal  residence  town  of  Aranjuez ;  the  other  is  a  little 
more  direct ;  feres  about  the  same  by  both  lines. 

Toledo  (Hotels:  FtmdadelAm;  Fonda  Qmiereio,' 
Ni/rte  ;  Imjfterial/  Com  Mfftt&ram)  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  towns  in  Euroi)e.  The  rly.  stat.  is  in  the 
vaUey  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  near  the  fine  Alcantara 
Bridge.  An  omnibus  takes  passengers  from  the  train 
to  the  top  of  the  hill.  On  the  wav  up  observe  the  fine 
view  in  tbe  valley,  where  old  Toledo,  which  was  a  town 
of  200,000  inhab.,  was  situated.  The  Toledo  of  to-day 
has  only  about  20,000.  The  river  T^s  makes  a  great 
curve  around  the  town.  It  is  crossedby  the  Alcantara 
and  the  8.  Martino  Bridget,  The  aspect  of  the  city  is 
majestic.  Immense  ramparts  on  the  rocks ;  great  gates 
flanked  with  Moorish  towers :  old  Puerta  Visagra, 
which  dates  from  the  Arabic  domination ;  the  celebrated 
Ptierta  del  Sol,  in  the  interior  of  the  city,  a  ehe/d'oeuvre 
"'  Arabic  architecture,  are  all  impressive.     The  prin- 


SPAIN.  431 

cipal  square  is  the  old  Zocodover,  to-day  called  the 
Place  of  the  Constitation.  The  principal  obiects  of 
interest  are  the  Cathedral,  the  Alcazar  .  the  celebrated 
Ch.  and  Content  ofS.  Juan  de  los  Reyes,  and  a  military 
college.  The  Cathedral  was  begun  in  1227,  and  finished 
2^  centuries  later.  Its  architecture  is  pure  Gothic: 
exterior  of  great  majestv.  The  principal  W.  front  has 
3  doors,  called  those  of  the  Infiarma,  the  Perdon,  and 
the  Juieio,  The  Door  of  the  Pardon  is  the  largest  and 
richest.  To  the  r.  of  the  fapade  is  the  tower :  on  the  L 
the  Mozarabic  chapel.  The  tower  is  nearly  300  ft. 
high,  and  the  great  Dell  in  it  weighs  nearly  40,000  lbs. 
The  beauties  of  the  Cathedral  are  so  numerous  that  we 
renounce  a  detailed  description  of  them  here.  Observe 
particularly  the  Door  of  the  Lions  and  its  rich  chapels, 
the  CapiUa  Mayor,  the  wonderful  effect  of  the  vast 
range  of  stained-glass  windows,  especially  when  the  sun 
is  shining  through  them  in  the  morning,  the  Goro,  and 
the  beautiful  Gothic  portal  of  the  Sala  Capitular.  The 
Tombs  of  the  Constable  Don  Alvaro  de  Lima  and  of 
the  Cardinal  de  Albomoz  are  very  imposing. 

The  Ch,  of  8.  Juan  de  los  Reyes  (1477)  is  ornamented 
with  a  great  number  of  chains  hung  on  the  walls  out- 
side, memorials  of  captivities  among  Moslems.  The 
cloister,  now  in  ruinous  condition,  was  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  world.  The  stone  sculptures  here  are 
of  extraordinary  delicacy  and  finish.  The  provincial 
museum  contains  a  collection  of  about  300  pictures. 
8.  Maria  la  Blanca  is  a  curious  memorial  of  the  Jewish 
«poch.  The  Military  College  contains  about  600  cadets, 
who  study  their  profession  here  from  the  age  of  13  to 
18  years.  The  Alcazar  'js  a  superb  edifice  which 
crosses  the  highest  poiut  of  the  hill  on  which  the  city 
is  built.  At  the  4  angles  of  its  walls  are  square  towc 
The  courtyard  is  formed  of  32  arcades.     The  stair 


432  VALLADOLID.  —  BURGOS. 

is  one  of  the  richest  works  of  its  kind.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  see  Toledo  in  less  than  &  single  day.  See  tlie 
Ftueo  de  las  Rosas  ;  the  Faseo  de  Madrid, 

ValladoUd  (Francia,  Calle  de  Teresa  Gil;  8iglo,V\2^ 
zade  S.  Ana)  is  the  next  place  of  interest;  although  from 
the  junction  of  Medina  del  Campo  you  can  go  bj 
branch  lines  to  the  old  univensity  tovn  of  SaUi- 
manca,  or  to  Zamora.  Yalladolid  is' a  town  of  55,000 
inhab.,  on  the  Pisuerga.  Here  see  University,  Acad- 
smy  of  Fine  Arts,  Museum,  Royal  Falace^  and  many 
scientific  institutions.  The  Royal  Falaee  contains 
many  curious  objects.  The  old  Falaee  of  the  Inqui- 
sition is  to-day  occupied  by  the  Courts  of  Appeals. 
In  the  University  are  a  series  of  portraits  of  the  kings 
of  Spain.  The  Museum  of  YaliadoUd  is  only  secondary 
to  the  museums  of  Madrid  and  Seville.  Here  are  fine 
examples  of  the  works  of  Rubens,  Mascagni,  Carducci, 
and  Cardenas.  The  principal  treasure  of  the  museum 
is  a  magnificent  custodia,  or  tabernacle^  in  silver. 

Burgos  rSotels :  Fonda  del  Norte;  Paris),  with 
32,000  inhab.,  may  be  seen  iu  a  short  time.  Notice 
the  Bronze  Statue  of  Charles  III. ;  the  celebrated  Casm 
del  Cordon;  the  Ancient  Falaee,  covered  with  sculp- 
tures; the  Espolon,  beautifully  decorated,  with  3  ^<t 
alleys  bordered  with  trees,  filled  with  statues,  sardens, 
and  fountains ;  the  Cathedral,  one  of  the  marvels  of  the 
13  th  century.  Itsportal  and  2  clock-towers  are  of  Goth* 
ic  architecture.  Tne  principal  fa9ade  towards  the  W. 
is  a  marvel  of  stone  lacewonL.  The  interior  is  magnifi- 
cent, and  ornamented  with^  pictures,  statues,  tombs, 
sculptures,  bas-reUefs,  etc.  Observe  the  Tomb  of  the 
Constable  Castille.  In  the  Ch,  of  S.  Esteban  is  a  very 
fine  Cena.  Notice  the  Triumphal  Arch  raised  by  Philip 
II.  to  Fernando  Gonzales ;  also  the  house  of  the  Cid, 
or  the  monument  erected  in  1784  on  the  ruins  of  that 


SPAIN.  '  433 

house.  In  the  City  Hall  are  the  remains  of  the  Great 
Captain  and  of  his  wife,  enclosed  in  a  sculptured  wooden 
coffin.  The  Arch  of  S.  Maria  is  very  handsome. 
Many  fine  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Burgos. 

The  towns  of  Fittoria,  Pamplona,  Bilbao,  and  Sa» 
Sebastian  (the  pretty  watering>place  frequented  in 
late  years  by  Englisn  and  Americans)  aH  deserve  at- 
tention; but  the  tourist  will  hardly  find  time. to  stop 
at  any  of  them.  The  frontier  of  l  ranee  is  reached  at 
Irun;  fares  from  Madrid  to  Irun,  315  r.  50,  226  r. 
25,  142  r.  Spanish  time  is  25  min.  slower  than 
!French  time.  There  is  little  of  importance  to  see  in 
Iron:  memorials  of  the  Garlist  civil  war  in  all  this 
neighborhood.  Hendaye  is  the  first  French  station. 
A  little  beyond  it  is  S.  Jean  de  Lnz,  The  old  town  of 
Fontarabia  may  be  reached  from  Irun. 

Next  comes  Biarritz  {Maison  Garderes;  De  France; 
Campagne ;  BAngleterre;  Des  Princes;  Des  Ambas* 
Madeurs  ;  De  F Europe  ;  good  Casino  here ;  omnibus  to 
Bayonne  every  half  hour),  one  of  the  most  popular  sea- 
side resorts  on  the  S.  coast  of  France.  It  was  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Empress  Eugenie. 

Bayonne,  23f  M.  from  Irun  (Hotel  du  Commerce; 
St.  Etienne;  Des  Amhassadeurs ;  De  France;  Castille}, 
with  27,000  inhab.,  is  at  the  oonflaence  of  the  Adour  and 
the  Nive.  Fine  stained  glass  windows  in  the  Catbe^ 
dral,  15th  century.  The  Pla^e  Qrammont  contains  the 
Theatre,  the  Mairie,  and  the  Custom  House.  Good  view 
of  the  sea  from  the  citadel.  The  bayonet  was  invented 
here,  whence  its  name.  Fares  from  Bayonne  to  Irun, 
4fr.  65  c,  3  fr.  46  c.  2  fr.  60  c. 


28 


434  LISBON. 


PORTUGAL. 

WE  have  thought  it  probable  that  the  vacation 
tourists  would  not  be  likely  to  push  their  jour- 
ney as  far  as  Lisbon,  but  we  give  a  short  paragraph  con- 
cerning the  journey  to  Portugal.    Fares  from  Madrid 
to  Badajos,  37H  M.,  299  r.  50,  227  r.  91,  145  r.  87- 
From  Badajos  to  Lisbon  it  is  174i  M.,  5,260  reis, 
4,100  r.,  2,930  r. ;  time,  10  hrs. ;  2  trains  a  day.    Lisbon 
time  is  25  min.  slower  than  that  of  Madrid.     The  reis, 
the  Portuguese  monetary  unit,  is  about  \  centime,  or  2^ 
mills :  each  franc  is  therefore  worth  200  reis.    The  con  to 
de  reis,  or  a  million  of  reis,  is  500  francs.    The  Spanish 
E^al,  25  centimes,  is  46  reis.    On  the  way  from  Badajos 
to  Lisbon  you  pass  through  Santarem,  where  there  are 
many  curious  remains  of  the  Moorish  architecture  of 
the  Middle  Ages. 

Usbon,  in  Portuguese  Lisboa  i  Hotel  Francois  or 
Grand  Hotel  Centrals,  situated  on  the  Bay ;  Universal; 
Bra>gan^;  Durand,  moderate  charges),  with  260,000 
fnhab.,  is  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  nver  Tagus,  built 
in  an  amphitheatre  on  numerous  hills.  The  general 
view  of  Lisbon  on  approaching  it  by  river  or  by  rail 
is  magnificent.  The  finest  streets  are  those  of  the 
Duro  do  Pra^a  Augusta^  the  Chiado,  and  Alecrim. 
The  Commercial  Square,  Pra^a  do  Commercio,  has  the 
largest  and  most  remarkable  public  buildings  in  the 
city.  It  is  also  called  the  Esplanade  of  the  Hills. 
In  the  middle  is  the  colossal  equestrian  bronze  statue 
of  Jose  I.  On  3  sides  of  the  square  are  sumptuous 
buildings,  the  Exchange,  the  Custom  House,  the  India 
Office^  the  Ministries^  etc.    On  the  middle  of  the  N.  side, 


PORTUGAL.  435 

magnificent  Triumphal  Arch.  The  Cathedral^  the  CLs.  of 
>S'.  Antonio^  ofS.Roque,  of  the  Carmelites,  and  many  con- 
vents have  rich  collections  of  art  treasures.  In  the 
Palace'' das  Necessidades  is  a  good  collection  of  old 
porcelain,  furniture,  etc.  The  King  lives  in  the  Ajuda 
Palace,  an  imposing  edifice :  botanical  garden  near  by. 
Observe  the  beautiful  aqueduct  which  crosses  the  Al- 
cantara Valley.  The  National  Museum,  1^00,000  vols., 
10,000  MSS. ;  the  Archives,  the  Royal  Conservatory  of 
Music,  and  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  as  well  as  the 
Italian  Opera  and  the  Bona  Maria  II.  Theatre  should  be 
seen.  There  are  but  few  remains  of  old  Lisbon,  which 
was  destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake.     The  Belem 

Possesses  a  great  many  fine  gardens.  The  old  Belem 
lonastery  is  worth  a  visit.  Ramalhao,  the  Almada 
Mqfra,  a  vast  convent  ch.,  and  the  Palace  of  Cintra, 
where  is  an  old  castle  of  the  Moors,  are  the  principal 
suburban  points  for  excursions.  From  Lisbon  there  is 
weekly  steam  communication  with  South  America,  with 
the  East,  and  with  England.  K  journey  may  be  made 
to  Oporto,  taking  Goimbra  on  the  way.  Fares  to 
Oporto,  6,610  reis,  5,140  r.,  3,680  r. ;  time,  11^  hrs. ; 
distance,  15 8 J  M. 

Coimbra  (Hotel :  Hospedaria  de  Caes  Novo)  is  on 
the  r.  bank  of  the  Mondego  and  has  a  most  delicious 
climate.  It  is  very  rich  in  poetic  tradition  and  has 
numerous  manufactures  of  faience.  The  Romans 
made  it  one  of  their  most  important  military  posts.  To- 
day the  remains  of  the  old  walls  are  still  to  be  seen. 
University,  with  900  students  here.  The  old  Cathedral 
is  Byzantine,  and  quite  rich  in  character.  The  Chapel 
of  the  Twelve  Apostles  \&  remarkable.  There  is  a  chapel 
in  it  named  after  the  poet  Camoeus.  In  the  convent 
ch.  of  S.  Clara  are  the  toiubs  of  the  first  kings  of 
Portugal. 


436  OPORTO.— PAU. 

Oporto  {Edtd  Cmtrale;  Grand  HML;  BSUi  du 
Louvre),  with  90,000  inbab.,  is  the  second  city  of  Por- 
tugal. It  is  built  on  2  hills,  and  the  valleys  which  ex- 
tend between  these  are  filled  with  charming  villas  and 
country-houses.  The  effect  of  the  Ouiutas,  or  Terraces, 
is  quite  delightful.  The  Cathedral,  or  La  Se,  is  not 
especially  striking.  The  town  is  divided  into  3  qnar- 
ters,  the  oldest  of  which,  San  Martinho,  has  but  little  of 
importance.    The  Boyal  Hospital,  the  Ch.  Das  Cleri- 

C(with  its  high  tower),  the  elegant  theatre,  the  great 
racks,  the  Episcopal  ralace,  the  Ch.  of  Our  La<fy  of 
Lapa,  where  the  heart  of  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  is 
preserved,  and  the  interior  of  the  Ch.  of  S.  Francisco  ; 
also  the  libraries,  65,000  vols.,  the  Exchange,  and  the 
Museum,  merit  brief  attention.  Oporto  is  a  thriving 
commercial  town.  From  Lisbon  to  Ersora  it  is  72  M. ; 
fares  3,120  r.,  2,390  r.,  1,610  r. 

Evora  is  a  highly  fortified  city  of  12,000  inbab.,  in 
the  midst  of  beautiful  fields  filled  with  orange,  olive, 
and  fig  groves.  Many  Homan  antiquities  here.  Erom 
Lisbon  a  rly.  runs  to  Faro,  169J  M. 

Faro,  on  the  8.  coast  of  Portugal,  is  a  small  town  of 
10,000  inhab.,  with  a  good  cathedral ;  fine  military  hos- 
pital, large  and  well-built  streets,  and  an  excellent  port 
Just  opposite  it,  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  is  a  small  group 
of  islands. 

From  Bayonne  it  is  65f  M.  (fares,  13  fr.,  9  fr.  75  c, 
7fr.  20c.)to 

Pan  [hotel  Oassion,  a  splendid  edifice  which  cost 
$400,000;  Be  France;  Beau  SSfour;  Be  la  FotU; 
Orand  Hdtd;  Be  la  Paix  ;  Be  V  Europe  ;  Bu  Commerce; 
Henri  1 V. ;  Be  la  Borade.  Restaurants  :  Oaesion,  Com- 
merce, Be  la  Borade),  with  29,000  inhab.,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  towns  in  the  lower  Pyrenees,  and  is  a 
favorite  winter  resort  because  of  its  delicious  climate. 


FRANCE.  437 

Life  is  rather  expensive  at  Pau,  but  there  are  a  great 
namber  of  strangers  there  yearly ;  abandanoe  of  b^nti- 
fuUj  famished  apartments  to  be  had.  The  town  is 
divided  into  3  parts  by  the  little  brooklet  called  tbe 
Gave,  over  which  there  are  5  bridges.  The  Castle 
of  Henri  IF,  (open  daily  except  Men.  from  10  to  noon,, 
and  from  2  to  4  p.m.),  near  Pau,  is  well  worth  visiting. 
Magnificent  Flemish  tapestries  made  by  order  of  Francis 
I.,  in  the  great  Hall  of  the  States.  The  Ch.  of  8.  Martin, 
modem ;  the  Palace  of  Justice ;  the  Museum  (open 
Thars.  and  Sun.,  from  1  to  5,  free,  and  every  day  for  a 
small  fee) ;  the  Place  Royale,  with  a  statue  of  Henri  lY ., 
mav  all  readily  be  seen  in  a  few  hours.  From  Pau 
24  M.  rly.  to  fjaruns,  thence  omnibus  to  Eanx-Bon* 
nea  {Hotel  des  Princes  ;  De  France  /  De  Richelieu)  and 
Eaus^Chavdes,  The  former  town  receives  between  & 
and  10,000  invalids  and  tourists  annually :  vast  bathing 
establishments  here,  also  Casino,  concert  halls,  theatre, 
reading-rooms,  etc.  The  thermal  establishment  at 
Eanz-Chaades  (H6tel  Baudot ;  Be  France)  is  one  of 
the  best  arranged  in  the  Pyrenees.  The  waters  are 
especially  successful  in  catarrh,  rheumatism,  and  skiu 
diseases.  For  full  description  of  this  Pyrenean  bath 
region  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  refer  you  to  the^ 
work  on  the  INrenees  by  Adolphe  and  Paul  Joanne, 
published  by  Hachette,  Paris. 

Cantereto  {Hdtel  Oontinmtalj  Be  Fiance  ;  B^An- 
gletenre;  Bu  Pa^c)  may  be  reached  via  Pau  and* 
Tarbes.  There  are  34  springs  here  and  9  bathing 
establishments ;  about  20,000  tourists  visit  Cauterets- 
annually.  Beautiful  excursions  in  the  neighborhood. 
Going  N,,  after  leaving  Bayonne,  the  firdt  place  of 
importance  is 

Bordeaux  (HStel  de  France/  Be  Bayonne;  Be 
Nice;   Bes  Princes  et    de   la  Paix ;    QnUinental^ 


438  BORDEAUX. 

SicheUeu ;  Des  Ambassadeurs),  with  240,000  inhab., 
a  beautiful  town  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Garonne.  The 
oity  takes  the  fonn  of  a  crescent,  which  it  bears  on  its 
coat  of  arms.  The  Garonne  River  here  is  very  wide  and 
deep,  and  navigable  for  nearly  all  classes  of  steamship. 
See  the  Bordeaux  bridge,  built  in  1810,  from  which 
admirable  view  of  the  riyer,  and  its  banks  lined  with 
palaces,  warehouses,  and  shops.  The  Flace  de  la 
Comedie,  on  which  stands  a  great  theatre,  is  the  principal 
rendezvous  for  strangers.  All  the  principal  hotels  are 
in  this  neighborhood ;  but  the  largest  of  all  the  squares 
in  Bordeaux  is  the  Place  des  Quinconces,  Here  are 
the  Eostral  columns,  surmounted  by  statues  of  Com- 
merce and  Navigation.  There  are  also  marble  statues 
here  of  Montaigne  and  of  Montesquieu ;  an  equestrian 
statue  of  Napoleon  III.,  which  stood  in  the  Tourny  alley, 
was  taken  down  in  1870.  The  oldest  monument  in 
Bordeaux  is  an  amphitheatre  called  the  Palais  Gallien. 
This  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  Romans,  in 
the  3d  century.  The  Calhedral  of  S.  Andre  was  con- 
secrated in  1090 ;  rebuilt  at  different  epochs ;  and  is  now 
being  restored.  Near  the  Cathedral  is  the  BeU  Tower 
of  Pey-Berland,  so  called  after  the  Bishop  who  built  it, 
in  1440.  The  ch.  of  JS.  Michel,  founded  1160,  belongs 
to  the  ogival  order.  It  also  has  an  isolated  bell 
tower.  The  ancient  ch.  of  S.  Croix  has  a  rich  fayade 
recently  restored.  The  Palace  of  Justice  has  numerous 
statues  of  noted  Frenchmen.  In  the  vestibule  of  the 
court  stands  a  statue  of  Montesquieu.  Many  of  the 
other  pubHc  buildings  are  adorned  with  sculptures  and 
])aintings.  The  great  Theatre  has  a  fine  vestibule  orna- 
mented with  Ionic  columns.  It  was  in  this  theatre  that 
the  National  Assembly  held  its  sessions  in  1871,  and 
that  the  nation  resolved  to  make  peace  with  the  Prus- 
sians.    The   Museum,  founded   1803,  has  about  600 


FRANCE.  43» 

pictures  of  moderate  merit;  catalof^e,  5o  c. ;  museam 
open  Son.,  Mon.,  and  Thurs.,  10-3 ;  other  days  small 
fee.  See  Library,  200,000  vols.,  the  Museam  of 
Antiquities  and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History^ 
also  the  Bonie  Museum.  In  the  chapel  of  the 
Lye6e,  on  the  Cours  des  Torres,  is  the  tomb  of  Mou- 
tesquieu.    Bordeaux  is  a  very  important  commercial 

e>rt:  steam  navi^tiou  with  South  America,  Russia, 
olland,  England  and  Ireland,  New  York,  and  New- 
Orleans.  The  public  garden  is  a  pretty  promenade. 
The  watering-places  of  Bagneres  de  Bigarre  and  Baan" 
eres  de  Louchon  may  both  be  conveniently  reached 
from  Bordeaux. 

From  Bordeaux  it  is34f  M.  (fares,  4fr.  66  c.,  3  fr.  55 
c,  2  fr.  45  c.)  to 

Arcachon  {Grand  Hotel  Legallais ;  De  France; 
Richelieu ;  Jamm).  This  is  a  charming  seaside  resort 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay ;  and  in  the  pine  forest  which 
stretches  along  the  coast  are  a  great  number  of  winter 
villas.  The  Casmo  is  a  charming  palace  with  Moresque 
cupolas  and  minarets.  About  100,000  persons  visit 
Arcachon  annually.  From  Bordeaux  it  is  159|  M, 
(time,  5i  hrs.,  fares,  31  fr.  65  c,  23  fr.  75  c,  17  fr. 
40c.)  to 

Toxdovae  (ffolel  Tivollier ;  Del' Europe;  Souville), 
with  147,000  inhab.  This  is  the  old  capital  of  Lan- 
guedoc,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Garonne.  There  is  but 
uttle  of  interest  to  the  tourist  here  except  the  Cathedral 
of  St  Mienne  and  the  Museum  (founded  17^2)  of  an- 
tiquities, pictures,  and  plaster  casts.  From  Bordeaux 
to  Paris  it  is  35  SJ  M. ;  time,  about  9  iirs.  by  express ; 
fares,  72  fr.  5  c.,  54  fr.  5  c,  39  fr.  65  c.  You  pass 
through  Angoul6me,  Poitiers,  Tours,  and  Orleans. 

Angonleme  (H6td  du  Palais;  de  Fhinee\on  the  Cha> 
rente.  Is  an  old  town  buUt  on  a  rocky  hill,  and  has  e 


440  VICHY.  —  AIX-IiES-BAINS. 

Une  Gothic  Cathedral,  Theatre^  a  Cabinet  of  Natural 
History,  and  a  good  Library. 

Poitieni  {Koiel  d%  Palais  /  De  P Europe  ;  De  France) 
IS  near  the  river  Claifi.  Its  finest  square  is  the  Place 
^Armes.  Cathedral  in  Gothic  style,  with  very  lofty 
halls.  Interesting  ch.  of  8.  Hilaire,  also  the  Byzantine 
Notre  Dame ;  many  Roman  anticmities  here;  ralaoeof 
Justice,  with  room  much  like  Westminster  Hall  in 
London.  The  English  held  this  town  300  years.  4  M^ 
from  Poitiers  is  the  battle-field  where  the  JBlack  Prince 
4lefeated  the  French  under  John,  in  1356. 

Orleans  and  Tours,  see  pages  197-198. 

Two  of  the  most  celebrated  of  French  summer- 
resorts  are  Vicf^  and  Aix-les^Bains^  both  of  whidi  are 
•easily  reached  from  Lyons. 

Vichy  {Hotel  des  Arnbasiodeurs ;  Du  Cherbourg ; 
JDu  Pare  ;  Des  Princes;  MonnJbrun;  De  Richelieu;  Du 
Louore)  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Allier,  in  a  pretty  valley 
enclosed  in  an  amphitheatre  of  hills.  It  is  the  most 
popular  watering-place  in  France.  Wonderful  cures  of 
yout  and  rheumatism  are  reported  from  Vichy.  Bath- 
ing season  begins  May  1  and  ends  October  1.  T)ie  old 
1»wn,  with  its  ruined  walls  and  ancient  towers,  is 
striking.  Most  of  tlie  hotels  are  around  or  near  the 
old  Puk,  at  one  end  of  which  is  the  bathing  establish- 
ment, and  at  the  other  the  Casino. 

Aiz-aeo-Bs^iiui  {Grand  Hotel  d'Jix  ;  De  F Europe  ; 
Du  Globe;  De  Vtfnivers;  Des  Voyageurs;  De  la 
Poste;  Du  Pare)  is  a  very  popular  watering-pla(»  in 
Savoy,  8  M.  from  Chambery.  Nine  sulphur  springs 
here  effect  very  i<nportant  cures.  See  Roman  remains ; 
Casino  and  Baths ;  English  church.  Beautiful  excur- 
sions to  the  source  of  the  Mdrltzo ;  to  the  Abbey  of 
Haute  Combe,  where  are  the  tombs  of  the  House  of 
Savoy;  to  the  Nivolet ;  to  the  Mollard  Garden;    to 

"  Cascade;  to  Gresy ;  and  to  the  Annecy, 


COPENHAGEN.  i41 


A  TOUR  IN  THE  NORTH. 

FBDM  Hamburg,  in  Germany  (see  page  239), 
you  may,  if  time  permits,  make  a  tour  of  great 
interest  in  the  North.  We  will  for  the  present  con- 
tent ourselves  with  briefly  laying  down  some  skeleton 
routes  for  a  short  journey  through  portions  of  Den- 
mark, Norway,  Sweden,  and  Russia.  You  may  begin 
your  trip  by  going  to  the  chief  city  in  Denmark.  From 
Hamburg  to  the  German  naval  depot  of  Kiel  it  is 
3  hrs.  by  rail;  from  Kiel  to  Korsor  by  steamer  6^ 
lirs. ;  iand  from  Korsor  it  is  4^  hrs.  to  Copenhagen. 
Or  you  may  go  all  the  way  by  rail  from  gamburg  to 
Copenhagen,  by  Sclileswig,  220  M.,  in  16  hrs.  (fares, 
45  mks.,  35  mks.  10  pf.). 

Practical  Information.  —  The  money  in  Denmark, 
Norway,  and  Sweden  is  reckoned  in  krone  (k.)  and 
ore,  or  <ke  (o.).  An  English  sovereign  is  worth  about 
18  k.  —  Steamboat  schedules  are  frequently  altered: 
remember  this  in  making  plans.  —  The  best  season  for 
travelling  in  these  countries  is  from  June  to  mid-Sep- 
tember. —  For  a  journey  to  the  North  Cape,  select  June 
or  July.  —  The^ords  of  the  Western  Coast  of  Norway 
should  b6  seen  if  possible.  See  Baedeker,  and  an  ex- 
cellent Guide  du  Voyageur^  published  in  Stockholm,  for 
detailed  trips. 

Copenhagen  {Phoenix;  King  of  Denmark ;  V An- 
gleterre)^  the  capital  of  Denmark  (376,000  inhab ), 
stands  upon  the  JE).  coast  of  Zealand,  and  is  enclosed 
in  a  line  of  fortifications,  now  used  as  a  promenade. 
The  panorama  of  batteries,  docks,  stores,  and  arsenals, 
as  seen  from  the  sea,  is  quite  imposing.     The  E 


442  COPENHAGEN. 

part  of  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  Castle  of 
Jfyedenk8hav7i,  Part  of  the  city  is  built  on  the  small 
Island  of  Amagei',  and  is  called  Chnstianshavn.  The 
channel  between  the  two  islands  forms  the  port 
Copenhagen  has  a  great  number  of  palaces  and  public 
buildings,  and  ^3  days  may  well  be  spent  in  inspect* 
ing  the  art  collections.  The  royal  resiaences  are  quite 
numerous.  Amalienborg,  the  chief  house  of  the  royal 
family,  consists  of  4  small  palaces.  That  next  to  the 
Cotonnade  is  the  king's ;  the  second  is  the  Fareigii 
Qfflce  ;  and  the  others  pertain  to  the  queen  dowager 
and  the  crown  prince.  Bronze  Statue  of  Frederic  V. 
in  the  sc^uare.  The  BoyaZ  Chapel  faces  the  ruins  of 
the  Ghnstiansborg  Palace,  burned  down  in  1884. 
The  handsome  3-towered  Gothic  Rosenborg  Castle 
is  in  the  centre  of  the  King's  garden.  There  see 
Chronological  coUection  of  the  Danish  Kings — 
rooms  dedicated  to  each  king,  and  filled  with  relics 
of  his  life  and  deeds.  The  Audienee  Chamber  of 
Christian  1 F.  ;  the  golden  cups ;  the  bedroom  in 
which  Christian  IV.  died,  in  1648  ;  the  MarUe 
Hall;  the  beautiful  room  called  the  Rose;  and 
the  Turret  Chamber  are  the  other  curioBities. 
Observatory  near  this  palace.  Frederiksberg  Pal- 
ace (now  a  military  school)  is  1  M.  out,  in  a  beau- 
tiful park.  Zodlogieal  Gardens  near  by.  In  the 
Fruekirke  (Ch.  of  Our  Lady)  are  famous  sculp- 
tures by  Thorwaldsen;  and  in  an  alcove  his  coffin 
was  placed  at  the  funeral,  while  the  royal  family 
stood  bareheaded  round  it.  The  ch.  was  injured 
by  the  English  bombardment  in  1807.  See 
Thorwaldsen's  Baptismal  Font ;  also  two  bas- 
reliefs— the  Baptism  of  Christ  and  the  Last. 
Supper. 


COPENHAGEN.  443 

The  greatest  curiosity  in  Copenhagen  is  Thorwald" 
sevb$  Museum^  built  by  subscription  to  contain  casts  of 
all  his  works  and  many  originals  (catalogues  at  hotels 
and  at  museum).  In  room  4-2  are  Thorwaldsen's  last 
unfinished  works.  In  the  Prindseits- Palais  are  various 
popular  collections ;  the  Ethnographic  Museum,  the  Mu- 
seum of  Northern  Antiquities,  etc.  The  last  (open,  free, 
every  Thurs.,  12^2)  is  the  largest  and  most  coniplete  in 
Europe.  The  royal  collection  of  engravings  is  open, 
free,  Tues.  and  Fri.,  11-2.  Visitore  should  see  the 
Arsenal,  close  to  the  Christiansborg  Palace  (open 
Wed.,  1-3).  Royal  Library  (550,000  vols.)  close  by- 
Beautiful  new  eq^uestriau  statue  ia  bronze  opposite  the 
palace. 

The  ExchOfnge,  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  the 
University,  Library,  the  Ch.  of  the  Trinity,  with  its 
famous  jkound  Tower  (built  by  Christian  IV.),  Count 
Moltke*s  collection  of  pictures  (Wed.,  12-2),  and  the 
pretty  theatres  are  enough  to  keep  visitors  busily  oc~ 
cupied  for  a  week.  —  Near  Copenhagen  is  Charlotten- 
lund,  a  country  house,  inhabited  in  summer  by  some 
member  of  the  royal  family.  Pretty  drives  hereabouts. 
To  the  Deer  Park,  a  royal  preserve,  filled  with  vast 
herds  of  stags,  red  deer,  and  Mlow  deer ;  and  to  Hurs- 
holm»  where  once  stood  a  superb  palace  built  by  Chris- 
tian VI.  Not  far  away  is  the  Island  of  Hveen,  where 
the  astronomer  Tycho  ^rahe  resided. 

Sentimental  travellers  may  wish  to  visit  Elsinore 
(Oresund  Hotel),  30  M.  from  Copenhagen,  easily 
reached  by  rail  or  steamer  in  2  hrs.  The  Castle  and 
the  Cathedral  are  the  chief  sights,  Marienkst,  N.  of 
the  town,  is  a  sea-bathing  establishment.  Here  on  a 
terrace  amone  some  trees  is  shown  a  mound,  called  the 
grave  of  Hamlet  (see  Murray's  "Denmark ").  Hamlet's 
identification  with  this  spot  is  founded  on  very  slight 


444  ELSINORE.  —  MALMO. 

proof.  Near  Elsinore  is  Gurre,  a  famous  residence  of 
inanj  Danish  kings.  Eoeskilde  was  tbe  most  impor- 
tant town  in  Denmark,  and  remained  a  royal  residence 
from  the  10th  to  the  15  th  century.  The  Cathedral  is 
the  finest  building  of  its  kind  in  Denmark.  In  its  N. 
aisle^  Saxo  Grammaticus,  the  chronicler,  is  buried. 

From  Copenhagen,  those  persons  who  do  not  wish  to 
visit  Norway  can  go  by  steamer  4  times  daily  in  1^  his. 
(16  M.)  to  Malmo  (Kramer's  Hotel;  Danmark; 
Hxym  ;  StockMrn),  on  the  Swedish  coast,  and  thence 
by  riy.  in  16  hrs.  (one  through  train  daily  at  2:40  p.  K. 
fares,  52  k.  5  6.,  37  k.  65  50  to  the  Swedish  capital, 
8toekholra,  McUmo  (45,000  inhab.)  was  during  the 
Hanseatic  period  the  chief  commercial  town  on  the 
Sound.  Bothwell,  Mary  Stuart's  third  husband,  was 
imprisoned  in  the  castle  here,  1573-78.  Charles  XV. 
died  here.  On  the  way  to  Stockholm  you  pass  through 
Iiund  {Stadshtiset ;  Skandimvien),  where  is  the  finest 
cathedral  in  Scandinavia,  founded  in  the  11th  century. 
See  old  University  buildings  here ;  and  near  the  Cathe- 
dral  a  Statue  of  Tegner,  who  composed  many  of  his 
poems  at  Lund.  His  study  is  shown  to  visitors. 
Idnkdping  {Stora  Hotellet)  also  has  a  noble  ch.,  built 
1150-1499.    Notice  Norrkopin^,  near  Stockholm. 


GOTHENBURG.  —  CHRISTIANIA.  445 


NOBWAY. 

We  think  our  travellers  will  prefer  to  visit  Norway 
on  the  way  to  Sweden,  rather  than  to  neglect  such  an 
excellent  chance;  and  we  shall  therefore  recommend 
them  to  go  from  Copenhagen  to  Christiania  (semi- 
veekly  steamers,  touching  at  (jrotheubnrg;  time,  4/  hrs.; 
fares  small).  The  traveller  can  go  from  Gothenburg 
to  Stockholm  by  rail  (13  hrs. ;  fares,  38  k.  65  6., 
27  k.  95  6.),  if  he  changes  his  mind  about  Norway. 

Gk>theabarg  {HagluntTs;  Oota  KdUarej  Chris- 
iiania)  is  a  busy  and  pleasant  commercial  town  of 
90,000  inhab.,  on  the  Gotaelf.  Excellent  harbor,  rarely 
closed  hj  ice.  The  first  impulse  given  to  Grothenburff 
was  during  the  continental  blockade,  when  it  formed 
the  d^pot  of  English  trade  with  Northern  Europe. 
TliiC  Exchange,  the  Town  Hall,  the  Christinahyrka,  the 
Statue  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  the  Museum  (open  daily), 
the  Cathedral  (consecrated  in  1815),  ana  the  pretty 
garden  with  hotliouse  and  exotic  plants  near  the  Wall- 
graf,  comprise  the  chief  features  of  the  town.  Those 
who  wish  to  go  from  Gothenburg  to  Stockholm  by  the 
steamer  can  do  so  (Tues.,  Eri.,  and  Sat. ;  fares,  25,  17, 
and  12  k.). 

Christiaziia  {Grand Hotel ;  Victoria;  Skandinavie; 
Britannia;  Rogal),  the  capital  of  Norway,  has  140,000 
inhab.  Steamships  from  London,  Holland,  Hamburg, 
etc.,  land  their  passengers  on  the  two  quays  near  the 
Custom  House  (porterage  from  the  steamer,  30-40  6. ; 
cabs  to  the  hotel,  40,  60,  80  6.).  Christiania  is  charm- 
ingly situated  at  the  N.  end  of  a  ^ord.  It  was  founded 
by  (aud  named  for)  Christian  IV.  in  1624.  It  is  the  seat 
of  government  and  of  the  supreme  court  of  Norway ;  and 
the  Norwegian  Parliament  also  sits  here.    The  tJnive^ 


446  CHRISTIANIA  AND  SUBURBS. 

*%,  National  Picture-Gallery,  Observatory,  aod  Royal 
Falace  will  occupy  the  attention  for  a  day.  E.  of  the 
market-place  is  the  Ch.  of  Our  Saviour,  consecrated  in 
1697,  restored  in  1849.  Near  this  edifice  is  the  famous 
Steam  Kitchen  for  the  poor  classes,  where  economical 
dinners  are  cooked  for  2,000  people  daily.  The  Theatres, 
the  Freemasons^  Lodge,  the  Akershus,  the  Fortress  (many 
centuries  old),  are  all  within  an  easy  walk  of  each  other. 
The  Akershus  was  besieged  by  Du£e  Eric  of  Sweden  in 
1310,  and  in  1716  by  the  famous  Charles  XII.,  who 
was  signally  defeated  a  little  later  by  the  Norwegian 
naval  hero  Tordenskjold.  Good  views  from  the  ram- 
parts. See  the  Eidsvolds  Plads,  the  pretty  square 
planted  with  trees,  E.  of  which  is  the  Parliament  Edi^ce, 
This  has  a  handsome  fa9ade,  iianked  with  granite  Hons 

Se  to  enter).  The  summer  session  ends  in  June, 
e  National  Gallery  (Sun.  and  Thurs.,  12-2,  free;  at 
other  times,  fee)  was  founded  in  1837,  and  contains 
260  pictures.  In  room  6  see  reliefs  by  Thorwaldsen. 
The  Trinity  Ch.,  the  Gamle  Akers  Kirke,  —  the  oldest 
ch.  in  Christiania,  founded  in  the  11th  century,  —  the 
monument  to  Wergeland,  the  most  famous  of  Nor- 
wegian poets,  and  the  view  from  St.  JohiCs  Hill  should 
not  be  forgotten.  In  the  University,  founded  1811, 
there  are  numerous  collections  of  interest.  It  has  1 ,000 
students,  and  a  library  of  250,000  vols.  The  R<^al 
Palace  is  a  large  plain  edifice,  with  handsome  portico, 
on  a  hill  in  3ie  Slots  Park.  The  Festal  Hall,  the 
Throne  Room,  and  Audience  Chamber  are  beautifully 
ad(^rned.  In  front  is  an  equestrian  Statue  of  Charles 
XIV.  The  School  of  Design  and  the  Palaishavens  Pa- 
vilion, where  there  is  a  collection  of  engravings  and 
drawings,  are  the  only  other  important  sights. 

Suburbs.  —  See  uscarshall  (tickets  and  information 
^»ee  at  the  hotels),  a  castle  built  for  King  Oscpir  in 


THRONDHJEM.  447 

1847,  with  works  of  Swedish  and  Norwegian  artists. 
Noble  view  from  the  roof.     Also  visit  the  Egeherg. 

There  is  direct  steam  communication  between  Chria- 
tiania  and  Hull,  3  days ;  London,  4  days ;  Havre, 
4  days ;  Hamburg,  36  hrs. ;  Lubeck,  48  hrs. :  fid 
twice  a  month  to  New  York. 

Brief  Excursions  in  Norway. 

CSeneral  Notes.  —  On  all  the  Qords,  and  along  the 
eoast  of  Norway,  there  are  exceUent  steamboat  lines,  and 
travel  in  this  way  is  comparatively  cheap.  The  food  is 
usually  good.  Beer  is  the  national  drink.  The  rigid  tem- 
perance laws  of  Norway  make  it  impossible  to  obtain  spirits 
on  the  steamboats  o^  at  most  of  the  principal  railway  restaa* 
rants.  On  the  lakes  there  is  usually  a  service  3  times  a  day. 
All  Norway  is  covered  with  a  network  of  excellent  routes ; 
and  there  are  few  more  pleasant  ways  of  travelling  than  in 
the  post>chaise  among  the  mountains  and  beside  the  fjords, 
if  the  traveller  be  prudent  enough  to  look  out  for  his  relays 
of  horses.  It  is  only  on  the  most  frequented  routes  that 
one  can  get  carriages  and  horses  to  make  a  long  journey. 
The  driver  generally  takes  care  of  himself  and  his  horses  for 
a  fixed  sum.  Carriages  can  carry  8  or  4  pei-sons,  with  bag- 
gage. The  relay  service  is  very  well  arranged,  and  there 
will  be  no  occasion  for  complaint  if  you  always  send  a  tele- 
gram ahead.  The  charges  for  the  horses  and  carnages  are 
by  the  mile,  and  are  moderate.  On  the  lakes  the  rowers 
also  work  for  a  fixed  tariff.  The  amount  of  baggage  is  also 
determined  by  regulation. 

Throndhjem  (Britannia;  D* Anqleterre ;  Bettevne; 
Victoria),  the  ancient  Nidaros,  and  the  third  city  in 
Norway,  has  24,000  inhab.  Here  the  Norwegian  kmgs 
were  crowned  in  the  Middle  Ages.  Formerly  the  capi- 
tal of  the  kingdom ;  and  its  cathedral  (open  daily,  free, 
12-1),  the  finest  in  the  North,  was  once  a  great  resori 


448  BERGEN.  —  HAMMERFEST. 

for  pilgrims.  It  is  built  of  a  blaisli  chloiite  slate,  with 
which  the  marble  columns  form  an  admirable  contrast. 
In  the  11th  and  12th  centnries  this  eh.  was  the  burial- 
place  of  the  kings ;  and  here  Charles  XIY.,  Oscar  L, 
fcharles  XV.,  and  Oscar  II.  were  crowned.  You  may 
go  from  Christiania  to  Throndhjem  by  rail,  but  the  jour- 
ney is  tedious,  and  we  recommend  the  carriage  route, 
or  the  steamboat  voyage  around  the  coast. 

From  Christiania  to  Bergen  is  a  favorite  excursion. 
On  the  StrandeQord  is  the  noted  Fagermes  Hotel,  a 

great  resort  for  tourists.  Bergen  (Holdfs  Hotel; 
kandinavie)  is  on  a  hilly  peninsula  aim  isthmus,  with 
handsome  high  mts.  in  the  background.  The  town 
(39,000  inhab.)  was  founded  by  King  Olaf  in  1070,  on 
the  site  of  an  old  royal  residence.  Many  great  battlf s 
have  been  foiigut  in  its  neighborhood.  See  Kon^sAall, 
Valkendorf  Tower ^  and  Fishmarket  (on  Wed.  and  Sat., 
8-10  A.M.).  The  Museum  has  very  good  collections. 
The  best  view  of  the  town  is  from  the  Floifield,  N.E. 
of  the  harbor.  The  overland  route  from  Bergen  to 
M.olde  is  interesting  for  leisurely  tourists. 

Another  good  excursion  is  from  Christiania  to  Kongs- 
herg,  the  Falls  of  Riukan,  the  Hardanger^ord,  and  to 
Bergen.  Still  another  is  from  Christiania  to  Vadso, 
along  the  coast.  From  Vadso,  those  who  have  time 
may  push  on  to  Hammerfest  {Jansen^s  Hotel),  the 
most  northern  city  in  the  world.  It  is  built  along  the 
shores  of  a  little  bay,  protected  by  a  peninsula  from 
the  fury  of  the  N.  winds.  From  a  mountain  in  the 
neighborhood  there  is  an  extensive  view  over  the 
glaciers  of  Sejland  and  Soro.  Hence  travellers  can 
usually  see  the  midnight  sun  in  midsummer.  Those 
who  wish  to  visit  the  North  Cape  should  remember 
that  the  sole  attraction  of  the  journey  consists  in  the 
bleakness  and  solemnity  of  the  scenery.    A  steamer 


STOCKHOLM.  449 

usually  leaves  Hamburg  on  Mon.  morniDg,  arriving  at 
Vadso  Wed.  afternoon  and  at  Hammenest  on  Sat. 
evening. 

SWEDEN. 

You  may  go  by  rail  in  5  J  hrs.  (fares,  10  k.  55  6, 
7  k.  555.,  4  k.  805.)  to  Charlottenherg  (Railway  Restau- 
rant),  on  the  Swedish  frontier ;  change  carriages  }iere, 
and  thence  in  14-18  hrs.  (fares,  30  k.  40  5.,  22  k.  35  5., 
14  k.  20  5. ;  express  rates  a  trifle  higher)  to 

Stockholm  {Ghrand  Hotel;  By^Serg;  Kung  KaH/ 
Kung  Ka/rls  Annex  ;  W,  6,  pronounced  vay  sex  ;  De 
France;  Scandinavia;  Stettin;  De  Suhde,  in  the  town 
properly  so  called;  Frankfurt;  BerUn,  Room  from  1  k. 
50  0.  to '3  k.  per  day.  Qood  restaurants  in  the  principal 
hotels.  In  the  southern  faubourg,  Bdigan  ;  fine  view 
over  Stockholm  and  its  environs.  Good  music  at 
E^nch*9  Ca/i?  every  evening.  The  principal  bank,  J3iA;«- 
banken,  at  Jem  Torget.  Population,  350,000.  Sea  com- 
munication with  Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen,  Amster- 
dam. London,  St.  Petersburg,  Bordeaux,  and  Finland, 
by  comfortable  steamships  and  boats.  Carriages  at  all 
rly.  stats.  Day  price,  1  k.  for  1-2  persons  for  single 
drive ;  1  k.  25  5.  for  3-4  persons ;  from  11  p.m.  to 
6  A.M.,  50  per  cent  increase.  Trips  to  subarbs  at 
moderate  rates.  Baggage,  20-505.;  omnibus,  15  5.). 
The  capital  of  Sweden  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  Lake 
Malar,  where  it  empties  into  the  Baltic  Sea,  and  occu- 
pies two  peninsulas  and  many  islands,  joined  by  hand- 
some  bridges.  Old  travellers  say  that  Stockholm's 
situation  is  the  most  beautiful  in  Europe,  after  that  of 
Constantinople.  The  city  is  divided  into  six  parts :  the 
Staden,  or  city,  formed  by  the  islands  of  Stadsholmen, 
Riddarholmen,  and  Helgeandsholmen,  the  narrowest 
and  least  agreeable  part  of  Stockholm,  but  the  most 
29 


450      PKINCIPAL  SIGHTS  IN  STOCKHOLM. 

animated,  and  the  commercial  centre ;  Norrmalm,  the 
N.  section,  with  the  island  of  Blasieholraen;  Ladu^rds- 
landet,  a  quarter  built  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Chnstina; 
Kungsholnien  (King's  Island) ;  Sodermalm,  tlie  S.  fau- 
bourg; and  SaUsjd'Oarne,  composed  of  four  islands. 
The  oldest  chroniclers  ^vw^  to  the  town  the  name  which 
it  bears  to-day,  —  stock  signifying  straight,  and  holme, 
island.  See  local  guide  at  bookstores  for  the  romantic 
legends  connected  with  the  origui  of  Stockholm.  Fine 
views  from  the  Mosebacke;  from  Kastellholmen  ;  from 
the  Observatory ;  from  the  Tower  of  Jacob's  Ch, ;  from 
Bystrowts  Villa  ;  and  from  the  Tivoli. 

Principal  Sights.— In  the  city  Stadeu:  the  Royal 
Palace,  —  burned  in  1697,  and  rebuilt  in  1753,  —  one  of 
the  iinest  in  Europe,  on  an  eminence  close  to  junction 
of  lake  and  sea.  Vast  panorama  from  the  terrace. 
View  of  the  city  and  the  innumerable  bits  of  water,  the 
liiajestic  mountains,  forests,  and  green  plains.  Cost  of 
palace,  10,500,000  k.  See  the  N.  fapade  and  the  Gus- 
tavus  Adolphus  Place.  Here  is  the  Lejoftsbaeken,  a  stair- 
case ornamented  witli  huge  bronze  lions.  The  front 
])Qrtico  is  decorated  with  the  Swedish  arms, — 3  bronze 
crowns,  supported  by  a  figure  of  Renown.  The  S.,  W., 
and  E.  fapades  have  beautiful  works  of  art.  The  chapel, 
128  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide,  has  fine  marble  columns 
and  richly  decorated  walls.  The  pulpit,  sculptured 
{ind  gilded,  is  supported  by  the  4  symbols  of  the  Evan- 
gelists,— the  angel,  eagle,  lion,  and  ox.  The  altar-piece 
represents  Jesus  at  Gethsemane.  The  Hall  of  State, 
143  ft.  long,  51  ft.  wide,  is  by  Tessin.  See  silver  throne 
given  to  Queen  Christina  oy  Magnus  Gabriel ;  and 
statues  of  Gustavus  II.  and  Charles  XIV.  by  Bystrom. 
Here  the  king  opens  and  closes  the  Diet  in  presence  of 
tlie  two  chambers  of  the  kingdom.  The  interior  of  the 
--  i--,o  is  visible  in  summer;  small  fee.     See  the  cere- 


STOCKHOLM.  451 

inoaial  halls  where  great  festivals  are  held :  Audience 
Chamber ;  fiae  ceiling  by  Fouquet ;  magaificent  cande- 
labra* 29  ft.  high ;  two  porcelains ;  Ked  Room,  where 
Gustavus  III.  slept  (many  marble  statues  here)  :  great 
gallery,  162  ft.  long;  wonderful  collection  of  sculp- 
tures ;  mythological  frescos :  two  smaller  rooms,  de- 
voted to  pictures  of  battles  :  a  second  gallery  and  two 
rooms  devoted  to  allegories  of  Peace :  Festival  Hall,  — 
sometimes  called  the  White  Sea,  —  with  richly  painted 
ceilings :  Victoria  Hatty  the  Hall  of  the  Columns,  and 
the  present  king's  and  queen's  apartments  :  Library 
very  riph,  with  many  statuettes  of  great  men,  Thor- 
waldsen  and  others.  On  the  great  square,  S.  of  the 
palace,  is  an  obeUsk,  erected  in  1799,  in  memory  of 
the  fidelity  of  the  citizens  of  Stockholm  during  the  war 
of  1788-1790  against  the  Russians.  Near  the  port, 
statue  of  Gustavus  III.  Behind  the  obelisk  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  founded  in  1260  or  1264, 
and  reconstructed  1726-43,  with  a*  spire  308  ft. 
high;  interior  divided  into  5  naves  by  rows  of  columns; 
altar-piece  in  ivory,  silver,  and  ebony,  representing  the 
birth  of  the  Saviour  ;  organ  one  of  the  largest  in  Swe- 
den ;  immense  stores  of  beautiful  silver  vessels  and 
candelabra ;  remarkable  funereal  monuments.  Oppo- 
site the  palace,  beyond  the  Slottsbacken,  is  the  H(m%e 
of  the  Q&temor  of  Stockholm,  built  bv  Tessin,  the  most 
celebrated  architect  of  Sweden,  who  formerly  owned  it. 
In  the  Stortarget,  or  great  square,  the  famous  Bath  of 
Blood,  as  it  is  called  in  Swedish  history, — the  execu- 
tion of  96  distinguished  citizens,opponents  of  Christian 
II.,  King  of  Denmark,  who  was  seeking  to  extend 
his  rule  over  Sweden,— took  place.  Here  is  the 
Bourse,  built  in  1766;  fine  halls  in  the  first  stonr. 
Near  by,  the  German  ch.  (1642),  with  tower  222  ft. 
high,  and  the  only  chime  of  bells  in  Sweden;  authentic 


452  STOCKHOLM. 

portraits  of  Luther  and  Melanchtbon.  Here  also  is 
the  Knights''  House  (164>8),  one  of  the  finest  palaces  in 
Stockholm ;  noble  staircase ;  walls  decorated  with  the 
arms  of  all  the  nobility  of  Sweden.  Statue  of  Gastayns 
Vasa  before  this  house,  erected  on  the  250th  anniver- 
sary of  the  entry  of  that  kin^  into  Stockholm.  The 
courts  of  justice  and  other  nublic  buildings  are  not  far 
away.  At  Skeppsbron,  the  port,  is  the  tdegraph  office 
and  the  Custom  House.  The  Scandinavian  Credit 
Bank  is  the  finest  modem  building  in  the  city.  The 
Gothic  Ch.  of  the  Knights*  Island  {Riddarholms-Kwrkan) 
is  on  the  Biddarholmen  Island,  to  the  W.  of  the  Eques- 
trian Palace.  It  belonged  to  a  famous  Franciscan 
convent  founded  by  King  Magnus  Ladulas,  and  was 
reconstructed  in  1847.  It  is  192  ft.  long,  60  ft.  wide, 
and  the  tower  is  290  ft.  high.  It  is  noticeable  as  a 
mausoleum  of  celebrated  men  (local  guides  give  de- 
scription). The  chief  tomb  is  that  of  the  Gustavus 
dynasty.  N.  of  the  choir  is  the  Charles  Chapel  (built 
1686-1743),  with  marble  sarcophagus  of  Charles  XII. 
Here  also  repose  Charles  X.,  Cnarles  XV.,  Frederick, 
and  many  others.  Ch.  open  from  May  1  to  October  1, 
Tues.  and  Thurs.,  12-2  p.m.;  fee,  25  6.  On  the 
Riddarholmen  are  also  the  Royal  Courts  of  Justice,  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies,  Wi^  Rot/al  Archives,  and  iktStettue 
of  Birger-Jarl.  Go  by  the  ^reat  northern  bridge  — 
380  ft.  long,  in  granite,  built  m  1797  —  to  Helgeands- 
holmen,  with  its  pretty  gardens,  huge  bazaar,  and  royal 
stables. 

In  the  N.  section  {Noerwaln)  is  the  Oustavus  Adol- 
phus  Place  and  statue,  pedestal  ornamented  with  re- 
liefs of  celebrated  Swedish  generals.  On  the  W., 
Palace  of  the  Crown  Prince.  Opposite  is  the  Ryal 
Theatre,  inaugurated  in   1782.     Here   Gustavus  fll. 

^  killed  by  Ankarstrom.    E.,  near  this  square,  is  the 


STOCKHOLM.  453 

JaeoVt  Ch,  (1590).  The  S.  portal  is  very  rich  with 
scalptares  dating  from  1644.  The  poet  Kellgren  is 
buried  here.  To  the  E.  is  the  Charles  XII. *8  Place,  also 
called  the  Royal  Garden^  with  statue  of  Charles  XII. 
To  the  S.,  statue  of  Charles  XIII.  Pretty  theatre  and 
fountain  near  by.  In  the  Berzelius  Park,  statue  of 
Berzelius,  the  father  of  chemical  science.  W.  of  the 
Charles  XIII.  Place  is  the  Museum  of  the  Society  of 
Arts  (open  daily,  except  Mon.,  11-3,  25  o. ;  Sun.,  1-3,. 
free ;  Mon.,  "Wed.,  and  Fri.,  11-3,  50  6.),  with  collec- 
tions of  pictures,  weapons,  engpravings,  and  E^ptian 
and  Swedish  antiquities.  Facade  ornamented  with 
statues  of  noted  Swedes;  The  Historical  MuseuMy 
founded  in  the  17th  century,  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its 
kind.  The  HaU  of  the  Middle  Ages  (1050-1527)  is 
especially  interesting.  The  sculpture-gallery  deserves, 
numerous  visits.  The  Italian,  German,  Flemish,  Span- 
ish, French,  Swedish,  Norwegian,  and  Banish  school 
of  painting  are  well  represented.  From  the  National 
Museum,  an  iron  bridge  leads  to  the  Skeppsholmen,  an 
island  on  which  is  a  ch.  of  the  same  name.  Here  also^ 
are  the  arsenals  of  the  Swedish  fleet. 

The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  (1671)  is  in  the  Red 
Shop  Square.  The  Clara-Kyrka  (1285 ;  burned  1751 ; 
rebuilt  1753)  is  very  interesting.  You  cross  the 
Malar  Lake  on  a  rly.  which  cost  5,000,000  crowns. 
At  Kungsholmen  are  many  hospitals  and  some  of  the 
chief  manufactories.  Also  the  Mint,  and  a  ch.  with  a 
fine  altar-piece.  Not  far  away  is  the  principal  military 
school.  There  are  many  other  interesting  things  in  the 
city  quarter  (see  local  guidesV  The  Ch.  of  the  Baptist» 
and  the  Ch.  of  St.  John  should  be  seen.  In  the  ceme- 
tery of  the  latter.  Von  Dobeln,  one  of  the  heroes  of 
the  last  war  against  the  Russians,  is  buried.  The  tw 
principal  streets  of  Stockholm  are  the  Regents' 


454  UPSALA. 

Queen  Street, — in  Swedish,  Regenngsgaiau  and  Dratt- 
m/iggtUan.  The  Academy  of  Science^  the  Natmral 
History  Museum,  the  Technological  Institute,  the  ^iii»- 
ing  jSekool,  and  the  Odservatory  are  all  in  this  quarter. 

In  the  Ladugardslandet  quarter  are  the  ArHUerg 
Square  and  a  eh.  founded  in  1658,  remarkable  for  its 
acoustics.  Here  also  is  the  Rogal  Library  of  200,000 
vols.,  founded  under  Charles  IX.  (open  daily,  except 
Sat.,  11-2).  In  the  Sodermalm,  or  S.  faubourg,  is  the 
Karl  Johans  Place,  with  equestrian  statue  to  memory 
of  that  kine.  Here  also,  in  the  Hormgatan,  43,  is  the 
house  which  Swedenborg  inhabited  mr  a  long  time. 
Near  the  Mosebacke  is  the  Katharina-Kgrka,  on  the 
spot  where  the  decapitated  bodies  of  the  victims  of  the 
Battle  of  Blood  were  buried.  The  environs  of  Stock- 
holm are  noted  for  their  beauty,  especially  during  the 
wonderfully  clear  nights  of  June  and  July.  The  little 
steamers  running  in  all  directions  afford  opportunities 
for  many  delightful  excursions.  The  Carlberg  and 
Drottningholm  should  be  visited.  The  hotel  porters  will 
give  you  lists  of  excursions  and  the  best  manner  of 
making  them.  From  Stockholm  it  is  1^  hr.  by  express 
(6  k.  60  o.,  4  k.  5  6.)  to 

Upsala  {StadS'RoteUet ;  Jernmgs;  Svea;  good  res- 
taurants), the  most  famous  university  town  in  Sweden 
<20,000  inhab.),  and  the  residence  of  the  arohbishop 
and  other  dignitaries.  It  lies  on  both  banks  of  the 
Fyrisa,  which  is  crossed  by  5  bridges.  It  was  formerly 
called  Ostra-Aros,  and  when  the  Swedish  kings  residecl 
at  Gamla  Upsala,  it  was  their  port.  It  is  the  historical 
and  intellectual  centre  of  Sweden,  and  its  mythical 
associations  are  of  the  greatest  interest.  Visit  the 
Oothic  Cathedral  (founded  1260),  situated  on  a  pictu- 
resque height.  The  chief  curiosities  are  the  Burial 
€kapel  of  Gustavus  Vasa  (a^  the  back  of  the  choir), 
and  the  tomb  of  Linneeus,  the  great  botanist. 


ABO.  —-  HELSINGFORS.  455 

N.  of  this  catliedral  is  St  Eric's  Spnng,  said  to  have 
burst  forth  oa  the  spot  where  the  saint  was  martyred. 
Tbe  Ck.  of  the  Ttitiitif  has  man^  handsome  monuments. 
The  University  was  founded  in  1477.  Many  of  its 
edifices  are  very  striking  in  architecture.  Tbe  library 
building  is  especially  fine.  Tiie  Library  contains  200,000 
Tols.,  and  7,000  MSS.  Here  is  the  famous  transla- 
tion of  the  four  Gospels  by  Bishop  Ulphilas,  dating 
from  the  second  half  of  the  4th  century.  The  House  of 
Liajtaus  is  still  shown  in  Upsala.  In  the  cemetery  see 
monument  to  Greijer,  the  poet.  There  are  1,500  stu- 
dents at  the  University.  Numerous  charming  excur- 
sions in  the  neighborhood.  A  pretty  excui*sion  is  from 
Upsala  to  Qe^  by  rail  in  ^  hrs.  (8  k.  50  o., 
5  k.  30  6.).  On  the  way  you  may  see  the  Castle, 
which  was  fortified  by  Gustavus  Yasa,  and  where 
Eric  XIV.  was  imprisoned  during  his  insanity. 

We  will  not  attempt  to  give  otiier  excursions  in 
Sweden,  but  will  recommend  the  tourist  next  to  pro- 
ceed from  Stockholm  to  St.  Petersburg. 

RUSSIA. 

Steamers  sail  daily  in  summer  from  the  port  of  Stock- 
holm to  St.  Petersburg  in  3-4  days,  stopping  at  A6o, 
the  old  capital  of  Finknd,  taken  from  the  Swedes  in 
1809  by  the  Russians ;  RelsingforSy  one  of  the  strong- 
est of  naturally  fortified  harbors ;  and  W^horq,  taken 
from  the  Swedes  by  Peter  the  Great  in'  1710.  The 
beauty  of  the  hundreds  of  islands  through  which  the 
steamer  threads  its  way  renders  the  journey  a  constant 
pleasure.  The  Ahlaud  Islands  are  about  300  in  number. 
Shortly  after  the  steamer  enters  the  Gulf  oi:  Finland, 
the  dome  of  St,  Isaac's  Ch.  in  St.  Petersburg  is  dis- 
tinctly visible.     On  the  Way  up,  the  steamer  pass^ 


466  ST.  PETERSBURG. 

Cronstadt,  the  Russian  Empire's  cbief  naval  station. 
It  is  defended  by  great  batteries  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
Tock,  and  has  extensive  docks.  The  fortifications  were 
begun  in  1703  by  Peter  the  Great,  and  have  beau 
greatly  strengthened  since.  The  approaching  seaward 
IS  secured  by  the  erection  of  batteries  and  by  the  sink- 
ing of  ships.  An  excursion  can  be  made  in  one  day 
from  St.  Petersburg  to  Cronstadt,  Oranienbaum,  Peier- 
hofi  Strelna,  and  the  Monastery  of  St.  Sergius.  Oramen- 
baum  is  a  palace,  built  in  1724,  confiscated  to  the  crown 
ixova.  Mentchikoff's  estate.  It  commands  a  maniificent 
•view.  The  Peterhof  Patace,  begun  in  1720  by  Leblond, 
under  the  direction  of  Peter  the  Great,  contains  innumer- 
Able  articles  of  r^r/w,  tapestries,  marbles,  porcelains, 
malachites,  portraits,  especially  a  collection  of  pictures 
of  feminine  beauties,  368  in  number,  collected  from  50 
Russian  provinces.  In  front  of  the  palace  is  a  fountain 
called  the  Samson,  There  are  two  small  palaces  near 
here,  of  which  Peter  the  Great  was  very  lond,  and  in 
that  of  Mont  Plaisir  he  died.  The  Hermitage,  Alex- 
andra, where  the  Emperor  lives  while  at  Peterhof,  and 
Strelna,  the  palace  of  the  Grand  Duke  Constantino, 
are  in  this  neighborhood. 

8t.  Petersburg  {Hotel  d' Angleterre ;  De  Rnssie  ; 
Demouth*8  ;  De  France  ;  Bellevue)  is  the  capital  of  the 
Russian  Empire,  and  as  the  headquarters  of  the  official 
world  and  the  centre  of  Russian  society  must  always 
possess  a  certain  interest  for  the  traveller  (900,000 
inhab.).  The  common  supposition  that  it  is  not  wise  to 
visit  Russia  in  midsummer  is  founded  upon  a  mistake. 
The  Russian  summer  climate  is  extremely  soft  and  beau- 
tiful, and  the  heat  is  never  so  intense  as  in  some  parts 
of  North  America.  Of  course,  the  social  world  is  not  so 
^y  as  in  winter,  but  the  tourist  who  expects  to  spend  but 
^  or  3  days  in  St.  Petersburg  will  hardly  care  alK)ttt  this. 


ST.   PETERSBURG.  457 

The  city  was  founded  by  Peter  the  Great,  about  1703, 
and,  like  Madrid,  it  might  be  called  a  capital  with  malice 
aforethought;  for  the  energetic  monarch  set  it  down 
among  the  marshes  through  which  the  river  Neva  wan- 
ders towards  the  sea.  On  the  islands  in  the  channels 
of  the  divided  Neva  the  greater  part  of  the  city  is  built. 
The  Admiralty  Quarter,  so  (adled,  containing  the  public 
buildings,  is  on  the  mainland,  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Neva.  St.  Petersburg  is  in  many  respects  a  magnificent 
city,  although  the  contrasts  between  squalor  and  great 
splendor  are  sometimes  too  sharp  to  permit  of  an  agree- 
aole  impression.  When  the  town  was  building,  under 
Peter  the  Great,  40,000  or  50,000  peasants  were  em- 
ployed for  years  in  filling  up  the  marshes.  It  was  the 
Empress  Catherine  who  built  the  splendid  granite  quay 
along  the  Neva's  I.  bank.  The  river  has  overflowed  many 
times,  and  the  inundations  in  the  18th  century  and  in  the 
early  part  of  the  19th  were  very  disastrous.  Tlie  or- 
dinary tourist  will  find  that  the  difficulties  concerning 
passports,  police  supervision,  etc.,  have  been  greatly 
exaggeratea,  and  if  he  is  not  a  Nihilist  he  will  not  be 
much  troubled.  A  passport  is,  however,  exacted  on  en- 
tering Russia,  and  has  to  be  delivered  up  to  the  hotel 
proprietor  for  registration,  and  he  hands  it  to  you  on 
leaving  the  hotel.  The  city  is  divided  into  13  quarters, 
the  Admiralty  being  the  principal  one.  From  the  Ad- 
miralty three  great  streets  branch  off.  They  are  called 
the  Vosneasensky  ;  the  Gorokhovaia,  ending  at  the  Champs 
de  Mars ;  and  the  famous  Nevskv  Prospect^  where  are 
the  most  de^nt  of  the  shops  and  many  of  the  chs.  and 
public  buildings. 

The  Cathedral  of  our  Lady  of  Kazan,  in  the  Nevsky 
Prospect,  begun  under  Alexander  I.,  and  consecrated  in 
1811,  is  the  metropolitan  chureh  of  St.  Petersburg.  It 
is  a  copy  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  takes  its  na'^ 


458  ST.   PETERSJ^CTRG. 

from  an  image  of  the  Virgin  brought  from  Kazan  to  Mos* 
cow  iu  1579.  See  the  beautiful  Coriuthian  colonnade, 
with  columns  of  Finland  granite.  Interior  superb; 
shrine  of  cliased  silver,  the  gift  of  Cossacks  who  served 
in  wars  of  1813-14 ;  images  before  which  lamps  are  al- 
ways kept  burning ;  flags,  arms,  and  standards,  taken  iu 
battle ;  bronze  statues  of  Kutusoff  and  Barclay  de  Tolly 
in  front  of  the  ch.  No  organ  or  instrument  is  used  in 
the  service,  but  great  pains  are  taken  to  secure  good 
voices.  Remark  the  deep  bass  intonation.  TAe  For- 
tress and  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St,  Paul  contains 
in  its  vaults  the  tombs  of  all  the  sovereigns  of  Russia 
since  the  foundation  of  St.  Petersburg,  except  Peter  II. 
([buried  at  Moscow).  The  fortress  part  of  this  edifico 
is  used  as  a  prison,  and  also  contains  the  imp^ial  Mint. 
The  gilded  spire  is  visible  from  a  great  distance.  Hun- 
dreds of  flags  are  suspended  along  the  walls. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Isaac ,  the  largest  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, is  on  the  site  of  a  ch.  built  in  1710  bv  Peter  the 
Great.  Its  foundations  rest  upon  thousanas  of  piles. 
The  interior  is  chiefly  striking  from  its  splendid  propor- 
tions. Notice  the  lavish  use  of  polished  granite,  wnite 
marble,  malachite,  porphyry,  and  lapis  lazuli.  Fine 
view  of  city  from  dome.  The  Winter  Palace  (admis- 
sion by  tickets  procured  at  entrance  of  Council  of  State), 
built  in  1754,  in  Catherine's  reign,  stands  on  the  r.  bank 
of  the  Neva.  This  is  the  imperial  city  residence,  and  this 
building  was  the  scene  of  the  Nihilist  conspiracies,  which 
Anally  resulted  in  the  death  of  Alexander  II.  in  1881. 
The  exterior  is  not  impressive,  but  the  interior  is  richly 
ornamented  with  paintings,  bronzes,  marbles,  and  pre- 
cious stones.  Grand  festival  here  on  New  Year's  i)ay 
by  the  Emperor  to  all  his  subjects.  See  the  Amha^a^ 
dor^s  Staircase  on  the  Neva ;  also  the  magnificent  flight 
of  white  marble  steps,  leading  to  the  state  apartments. 


ST.   PETERSBURG.  45^ 

The  Throne  Roam  is  the  finest  in  Europe.  The  White 
Boom,  St.  George' 8  Hotly  the  Field  ManhaVe  Gallery, 
the  Alexander  Hall,  the  Halls  of  Battles  (in  which  are 
paintings  by  Horace  Yemet),  the  Golden  Chamber,  tiie 
^Impress's  Winter  Garden,  and  the  Romanoff  Gallery 
are  the  princix>al  apartments.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
latter  gallerjr  is  the  green  curtain,  behind  which  is  a 
tablet  on  wnich  are  the  rules  drawn  np  by  the  Empress 
Catherine,  to  be  enforced  at  her  receptions  at  the  Her* 
mitage.  In  the  jewel  room,  see  the  Imperial  crown  and 
sceptre  (containing  a  diamond  weighing  194  carats) .  See 
also  room  in  which  Emperor  Nicholas  died.  The  Her^ 
miiageio^VL  daily  except  Fri. ;  closed  in  Aug.),  close  to 
the  Winter  Palace,  was  founded  by  Catherine  in  1765, 
and  rebuilt  in  1840-50.  The  famous  museum  contains 
1,700  paintings  of  all  schools,  amongiihem  being  some 
by  Murillo,  ^Velasquez,  Rubens,  Van  I)yke,  Rembrandt^ 
and  Ruysdael.  There  are  also  vast  collections  of  en- 
grayed  stones,  and  designs  by  masters. 

The  Taurida  Palace,  the  Anitchkoff  Palace,  the 
Michael  and  the  Marble  Palaces  are  not  impressive 
buildings.  One  or  two  of  them  are  occasionsdly  open  to 
visitors.  The  Admiralty  is  a  vast  edifice  with  a  fapade 
half  a  mile  long.  Near  it  are  the  great  dockyards,  the 
headquarters  of  the  army,  and  the  War  Office.  The 
Wooden  Cottage  of  Peter  the  Great,  containing  many 
relics  of  the  famous  monarch,  is  near  the  citadel. 

The  Imperial  Library,  containing  400,000  vols.,  is 
near  the  Kazan  Ch.  Other  noteworthy  libraries  are 
those  of  the  Academy  of  Science,  the  Hermitage,  and 
the  Alexander  Nevsky  Monastery,  This  monastery  is 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  Russia.  It  was  founded 
by  the  great  Peter  in  honor  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
who  conquered  the  Swedes  and  the  Livoniani.  The 
museum  of  the  Academy  of  Science  occupies  a  portio'^ 


460  MOSCOW. 

of  the  saperb  building  near  the  Admiralt  j.  Tbe  Asiatic 
Museum  is  rich  in  I&tem  antiquities.  The  Romanoff 
Museum^  that  attached  to  the  Mining  School,  that  of 
Natural  History,  and  the  Egyptian  Museum  should  be 
seen.  The  theatres,  kept  up  at  the  government  expense, 
«re  all  of  large  size.  The  Bolskoyy  tbe  Alexandra,  and 
the  French  are  the  principal  ones.  The  opera  in  St. 
Petersburg  is  noted.  The  monuments  are  nearly  all 
good.  Those  most  worthy  of  attention  are  the  Eques- 
irian  Statue  of  Peter  the  Great,  with  a  prancing  horse 
balanced  on  its  hind  legs,  by  Falconet;  and  the  column 
of  Alexander,  a  single  shaft  of  redgranite  80  ft.  high, 
weighing  400  tons,  stands  near  the  Winter  Palace.  Tbe 
Summer  Gardens,  1  M.  long,  and  \  M.  wide,  beautifully 
ornamented,  contain  the  palace  in  which  Peter  the  Great 
occasionally  livedo  The  coimtry  around  St.  Peters- 
burg is  very  uninteresting. 

It  is  4!01i  M.  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Moscow.  The 
rly.  carriages  are  much  like  those  of  America  in  model. 
The  stations  are  all  comfortable,  refreshment  saloons 
oxcellent,  and  fares  reasonable.  First-class  express  to 
Moscow,  19  roubles  ;  second,  13  roubles.    The  princi- 

?d  town  on  the  way  is  Tver,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
vertsa  and  the  Volga.  Cathedral,  Trinity  Ch.  Here 
steamer  can  be  taken  to  Nijni-Novgorod,  and  thence  to 
Astrakan, 

Moscow  (Slavianski  Bazaar;  Dussaux;  Chevrier; 
jyAngleterre),  or  Holy  Moscow,  as  the  Russians  call  it, 
the  ancient  capital  of  Russia,  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  Emperors,  is  situated  on  the  Moskowa,  in  a  pleasant 
country.  Up  to  the  great  fire  in  1812,  it  was  tne  most 
irrc^arly  built  town  in  Europe,  and  to-day  it  remains 
origmal  and  picturesque  in  a  striking  d^ree.  A  good 
view  may  be  had  from  the  Sparrow  HUls,  on  the  8.  side. 
^  the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  Kremlin,  a  triangle  2  M. 


MOSCOW.  461 

n  circuit,  filled  with  palaces,  churches,  arsenals,  and 
naseums.  Here  the  Tartar  architecture  predominates. 
\m  excellent  preparation  for  visiting  the  Kremlin  is  tho 
>erusalof  Theophile  Gautier's  lively  and  sparkling  book 
>n  a  "  Winter  in  Russia."  The  Redeemer's  Gate  and  the 
^ateofSt,  Nicholas  K£e  objects  of  great  veneration  among 
Russians.  Visitors  must  uncover  their  heads  on  pass- 
ng  through  the  Redeemer's  Gate.  The  present  Krem- 
Hn  Palace  is  modem,  the  old  Kremlin  having  been  de- 
jtroyed  in  1812.  Most  of  the  ancient  palaces  were  of 
^ood.  To  Nicholas  I.  the  erection  of  the  present  one 
LS  due.  The  Hall  of  St.  George,  the  Hall  of  St.  Alex- 
znder  Nevsky,  and  Sts.  Andrew  and  Catherine,  and  the 
BanquetiTtg  Hall,  as  well  as  the  Terem,  which  contains 
%  collection  of  the  portraits  of  the  czars,  and  from  the 
terrace  of  which  Napoleon  I.  looked  down  upon  Mos- 
cow when  he  came  there  as  conqueror,  are  among  the 
KremUn's  chief  marvels.  In  the  little  Ch.  of  the  Re- 
iQ^^nitf/' are  some  beautifal  decorations.  On  the  Cathedral 
Place  is  the  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  founded  in 
1325,  and  rebuilt  in  1472.  Many  sacred  treasures  here. 
In  this  ch.  the  Emperors  of  Russia  are  crowned.  The 
Cathedral  of  the  Archangel  Michael  contains  many 
tombs  of  sovereigns.  The  Ch.  of  the  Annunciation  is 
where  the  czars  are  baptized.  It  is  rich  with  relics. 
The  jewels  in  all  Russian  chs.  are  worth  studying.  The 
House  of  the  Synod,  the  Treasury  (open  Mon.  ana  Thur., 
jjermit  at  the  chamberlain's  office),  and  the  Arsenal  will 
iumish  plenty  of  amusement  for  a  day.  The  Tower  of 
Ivan  Veliki,  or  John  the  Great,  built  in  1600,  and  320 
ft.  high,  contains  34  bells,  the  largest  of  which  weighs 
64  tons.  When  all  these  bells  are  rung  together  at 
Easter  the  effect  is  wonderful.  At  the  foot  of  this  tower 
is  the  vast  Tsar  Kolokol,  or  Monarch  of  Bells.  It  once 
hung  in  a  tower  (burned  in  1737) ;  weighs  444,000 
lbs. ;  and  is  20  ft.  high  and  60  ft.  round.    The  value 


462  NIJNI-NOVGOROD.  —  ODESSA. 

the  metal  in  tlie  bell  is  nearly  $2,000,000.  Ontside  ihe 
Kremlin  is  the  Chinese  town,  so  called,  founded  by 
Helena.  Here  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Basil,  built  in 
1554  by  Ivan  IV.,  the  Romanoff  Palace,  the  Iberian 
Gate  and  Chapel,  the  University  ^900  students),  the  great 
Mding  School,  the  Theatres,  and  the  lai^est  Bazaar  in 
Russia,  except  that  of  Niini-Novgorod.  The  pigeon 
being  looked  upon  as  sacred  b  j  the  Kussians,  thousands 
of  these  birds  are  to  be  seen  m  the  streets  of  Moscov. 
S.  of  Moscow  is  a  beautiful  villa  owned  by  the  Impeiial 
family. 

It  is  271}  M.  from  Moscow  to  Nijni-Novgorod. 
Tourists  pressed  for  time  can  take  night  train  there ; 
spend  the  day  at  Nijni ;  and  return  the  next  night  (flares^ 
12  roubles,  3  c. ;  9  roubles,  22  c  ). 

Nijni-Novgorod  (J)e  Russia,  Egoroff's),  a  city  of 
75,000  inhab.,  is  celebrated  for  its  great  fair,  held  an- 
nually in  July  and  Aug.,  and  attended  by  200,000  peo* 
pie.  Here  the  inhabitants  of  the  barbaric  East  come 
into  close  contact  with  the  Western  merchants  and  vis- 
itors. The  town  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Oka  and 
the  Volga.  The  Kremlin  is  on  a  bank  overhanging  the 
Volga.  The  transactions  at  the  fair  amount  annually 
to  $80,000,000. 

From  Moscow  to  Odessa  (time,  33J  hrs.;  fare,  40  rou- 
bles, 63  c.)  the  route  passes  through  Karkoff,  Poltava, 
and  Balta. 

Odeasa  (De  Londres ;  Be  St.  Petershourg)  wa» 
founded  in  Catherine  II.'s  reign.  It  is  an  important 
commercial  port,  with  350,000  inhab.;  but  tnere  ia 
little  of  interest  to  the  traveller  except  the  Cathedral,  a 
small  museum,  a  bronze  statue  of  Richelieu,  and  the 
University.  Steamers  leave  Odessa  twice  a  week  for 
the  Crimea  and  Sebaatopol,  and  the  field  of  the  Cri- 
mean  war  may  easily  be  visited.  There  is  also  steam 
communication  with  Constantinople. 


TABLE  OF  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  RESORTS,  MIN. 
ERAL  WATERS,  SEA  BATHS,  AND  HYDRO. 
PATHIC    ESTABLISHMENTS. 

litmei  and  railway  fares  are  calculaUdfrom  Paris, 

Aiz-la-Chapelle  (10  hn  from  Pai-is  ;  &re,  48  fr.).-— 
Sulpharoos  alkaline  waters,  107°  to  120°  F.  For  akin  dia- 
eases,  rheumatism,  chronic  diseases  of  the  nervous  centres, 
neuralgias,  paralysis,  and  syphilitic  maladies. 

ALc-les-Bains  (14i  hrs.;  71  fr.  60  c).  ~  Sulphurous 
hot  springs,  112°  to  114°  F.  Have  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion  in  cases  of  rheumatism  and  gout;  also  chronic  catarrh 
of  the  neck  of  the  womh,  amenorrhcsa,  metritis,  syphilis, 
bronchitis,  laryngeal  and  nasal  catarrh,  pharyngitis,  wounds 
by  fire-arras.     April  to  Nov.,  and  all  the  year. 

Am^Ue-les-Bains  (24^  hrs. ;  120i  fr.).  —  Solphuroos 
flodaie  waters,  71°  to  172°  F.,  and  winter  station.  Herpetic 
diathesis,  and  catarrhal  affections.     All  the  year. 

Arcachon  (10  hrs.;  78  fr.  70  c.).— Winter  station, 
and  sea  haths.  For  invalids  requiring  a  sedative  air;  for 
delicate,  lymphatic,  and  aniemic  pei*sons ;  nervous  complaints ; 
chest  and  lung  affections;  scrofula;  gout.  Winter  season, 
from  Nov.  till  June  ;  summer,  from  May  till  Oct. 

Anlns  (24i  hra.;  119  fr.).  —  Alkaline  waters,  48*  F. 
Purgative,  laxative,  and  dinretic  action,  according  to  dose, 
in  diseases  of  the  liver,  in  arthritic  affections,  and  in  syphilis. 

Baden  (27  hrs. ;  152i  fr.).  —  Sulphurous  waters,  82°  to 
95°  F.  For  rheumatism,  gout,  anaemia,  and  scrofula  (espe* 
cially  of  a  chronic  character).    May  to  Oct.,  and  all  the  year. 

Baden-Baden  (16  hrs. ;  68  fr.).  —  Alkaline  chloride 
of  sodium  waters,  110°  to  150°  F.  Uric  acid  diathesis,  fcont, 
and  kindred  complaints ;  ailments  dependent  on  malaria, 
and  certain  skin  diseases ;  chronic  rheumatism ;  wounds,  frac- 
tures of  the  hones,  scrofrila,  syphilis,  chronic  catarrh,  certain 
ladney  affections,  ansBmia.  May  to  Oct.  and  all  the  year. 
463 


464  CLIMATIC  HEA1.TH  RESORTS, 

Bagn^es-de-Blgorre  (22  hra. ;  105  fr.).  —  SaKii^ 
talphurous,  ferruginous,  and  arsenical  waters,  72**  to  120®  F. 
For  tuberculosis,  affections  of  the  respiratory  organs,  intes- 
tines,  and  urinary  system,  ansemia,  and  female  disorders. 
June  to  Sept.,  baUia ;  Nov.  to  May,  wiuter  station. 

Bagnoles  (19  hrs. ;  67  fr.  65  c).  —  Saline,  sulphurous, 
lithic,  silicate,  and  arsenical  waters,  66^  F.  For  diseases  of 
the  digestive  organs,  skin,  rheumatism,  and  scrofula,  chlor- 
osis, congestion  of  the  abdominal  viscera,  phlebitis,  &e. 

Barnes  (2H  hrs. ;  113  fr.).  —  Alkali-saline-snlphnroua 
waters,  45®  to  105®  F.  For  scrofula,  diseases  of  the  bones^ 
herpes  and  syphilis.    June  15  to  Sept.  l5. 

Biazxitz  (19i  hra.;  96  fr.  80  c).  —  Sea-bathing  and 
winter  station.  For  chlorosis,  ansemia,  chest  and  Inng  com- 
plaints, laryngitis,  phaiyngitis.     Aug.  to  May. 

Bourbon-rArchambault  (6^  hrs. ;  40  fr.  75  c.).  — 
Bromo-iodurated  saline  waters,  125®  F. ;  and  bicarbonate 
ferruginous  magnesian  waters,  120®  to  160®  F.,  highly  gase- 
ous.    For  scrofula,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  nervous  affections. 

Bourboule  (La)  (13^  hrs. ;  60  fr.).  —  Effervescent 
saline  arsenical  waters  (28  miUigr.  arseniate  of  soda  per 
litre),  140®  F.  For  ansemia,  lymphatism,  general  debility, 
affections  of  the  skin  and  respiratory  organs,  rheumatism, 
and  intermittent  fevers.     May  25  to  Sept.  80. 

Cannes  (20^  hrs. ;  130  fr.).  —  Winter  station  of  first 
importance;  climate  tonic  and  stimulating  near  the  sea; 
sedative  towards  Le  Cannet.  Sea  baths  in  spring ;  season, 
Oct.  to  May.  For  nervous  debility,  ansemia,  phthisis,  laryn- 
gitis, pharyngitis,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  goat,  and  diabetes. 

Carlsbrunn.  ^ —  Highly  effervescing,  fermginous  manga- 
nese waters,  45®  F. ;  climatic  station.  For  debility  of  the 
male  and  female  sexual  organs,  sterility,  impotence,  affections 
of  the  brain  due  to  overwork.    June  to  Sept. 

Caatellamare  di  Btabia(60i  hrs.;  248  fr.).  — Sea 
baths ;  cold  chloride  of  sodium,  bitter  and  snlphurcnis  chaly- 
beate waters.  For  obstructions  of  the  Kver  and  spleen, 
affections  of  the  mesenteric  glands,  biliary  and  vesical  cakuli. 


MINERAL  WATERS,   SEA  BATHS,   ETC.      465 

jaandiee,  dropsy,  hemorrhoids,  chronic  ophthalmia,  herpes^ 
catarrh  of  the  festive  organs,  hypochondriasis,  urinary  cal- 
culi, vesical  catarrh,  sorofola,  lymphatism,  congestion  of  the 
utenu,  leucorrhaea,  &e.  Sea  and  mineral  baling.  May  to 
Oct. ;  winter  season,  Oct.  to  April. 

Cauterets  {2lk  hrs.;  Ill  fr.  90  c).  —  StUphate  of 
soda  springs,  65^  to  145^  F.  For  catarrh  of  the  respiratory 
organs,  skin  diseases,  uterine  afiections,  scrofula. 

Contarex^viUe  (10  hrs. ;  5li  fr.).  —  Effervescent  alka- 
line,  slightly  ferruginous  waters,  55®  F.  Especially  for 
gravel,  biliary  and  vesical  calculi,  and  catarrh,  diabetes,  gout,, 
and  gouty  rheumatism,  disorders  of  the  urinary  system,  aifec* 
tions  of  the  uterus,  hepatic  complaints.     May  20  to  Sept. 

Dax  (15  hi-s. ;  90  fr.  80  c).  —  Hyperthermal  mixed  sul* 
phurotts  waters,  120®  to  145®  F.  For  articular,  muscular, 
or  rheumatic  affections,  gout,  neuralgia,  and  neuroses. 

Dieppe  (4  hrs. ;  20  fr.  65  c).  —  Much -frequented  sea- 
bathing and  summer  resort. 

DiTonne-les-Bains  (15i  hrs. ;  81  fr.).  —  Cold  water 
springs;  water  exceptionally  pure,  44®  F.  For  chronic  rheu- 
matic nihritis,  lumbago,  pleuro-dynia,  gout,  sciatica,  neu- 
ralgia,  hypochondria,  neui-oses,  gastralgia,  bronchial  catarrh,, 
dyspepsia,  liver  and  bladder  complaints,  hemorrhoids,  paraly- 
sis, chronic  affections  of  the  spinal  cord,  scrofula,  and  female 
''disorders. 

Baux-Bonnes  (18  hrs. ;  105  fr.).  —  Sulphurous  saline 
and  alkaline  waters,  90®  F.  For  angina  pectoris,  and  laryn- 
gitis, bronchitis,  and  chronic  catarrh,  asthma,  chronic  pleu- 
ritis,  ansemla,  lymphatism,  and  scrofcda.     June  to  Sept. 

Bms  (16i  hrs. ;  71  fr.  15  c).  —  Saline  alkaline  and  sa. 
line  earthy,  65®  to  110®  F.  These  watera  act  on  the  lungs 
and  chest,  and  on  nervous  diseases.     May  to  Oct. 

BngUen  (20  min. ;  1  fr.  35  c).  —  Cold  sulphurous  and 
lime  waters.  For  scrofula,  affections  of  respiratory  organs,, 
herpes,  and  rheumatism. 

Stretat  (5  hrs.  50  min. ;  28  fr.).  —  A  now  mnch-fre- 
qtiented  resort  for  sea-bathing  in  summer. 


466  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  RESORTS, 

BTian-lM-Baiiift  (13  hn.;  82  fr.  80  c).  >- Aftaline 
waten,  and  climatic  air  station.  For  aflbctions  of  the  nri- 
iiaiT  and  digestive  organs,  the  liver  and  biliaiT'  apparatns. 

Oeneva  (14  hrs. ;  77  fr.>.  —  Milk  core.  Bathera  from 
Aix-les-Baius  come  here  to  rest  after  their  core. 

Ghttrbendorf  (39  hrs. ;  167^  fr.). —Noted  for  its  moon, 
tain-air  cure,  in  affections  of  the  respiratoiy  organs.  Anae. 
mia  and  chlorosis  are  also  treated. 

Grasse.  —  Dry  and  sedative  climate;  winter  station; 
Oct.  to  June.  Chest  and  lung  complaints,  pharyngitis, 
nervous  affections,  anemia,  chlorosis. 

Hombnrg-lea-Bauui  (18  hrs.  40  min.;  86  fr.  69  c). 
—  Saline,  ferruginous,  and  acidulous  waters.  For  dyspepsii^ 
scrofula,  and  anemia. 

Hydros  (20  hrs.;  117  fr.).  — Winter  season,  Nov.  ti 
June ;  sea-bathing,  May  to  Oct.  For  diseases  of  the  larynx 
chest,  and  lungs,  scrofula,  diabetes,  gout,  and  rheumatism. 

Interlaken  (18  hrs. ;  78  fr.  65  c.).  -—  Climatic  atatioik 
in  summer,  visited  for  its  beautiful  environs.     Whey  care. 

Isohia  (50^  hrs.;  288i  fr.).  —  Alkali-saUne  waters, 
146"^  F.  For  uterine  affections,  rheumatism,  diseases  of  the 
bones,  sores,  gout,  and  paralysis.     Spriug  and  automn. 

lachl  (231  hrs.;  168  fr.  90  c).  —  A  climatic  summer 
station  ;  May  to  Oct.  Saline  and  cold  sulphurous  waters  ; 
whey  cure ;  saline,  steam,  hot  and  cold  brine,  and  sulphuioaa 
baths  ;  mud,  malt,  pine-cone,  sap,  and  wave  baths  ;  inhala- 
tion.     Recommended  for  nervous  affections. 

Karlsbad  (32  hrs.;  137  fr.).  —  Polymetallic  waters, 
125^  to  170^  F.  For  constipation,  liver  and  bilious  com- 
plaints, plethora,  obesity,  gout,  gravel,  &c. 

Kisflingen  (21  hrs.  40  min. ;  106  fr.).  —  Cold  saline 
waters,  strongly  mineralized ;  tonic  and  excitant.  Especially 
suited  to  abdominal  and  hemorrhoidal  congestions. 

Kreusnaoh  (13i  hrs. ;  72  fr.).  —  firomo-iodorated  sa- 
line  waters.  F  oncronilous  iffections,  diseases  of  the  ears, 
respiratory  organs,  bones,  ^nd  joints,  all  female  and  skim 
diseases,  and  in  chronic  affections  generally.    May  to  OeL 


MINERAL  WATERS,  SEA  BATHS,   ETC.      467 

TiHnMinne  (15|  hn. ;  64  fir.  20  c).  -—  Climatic  tUtioa 
in  sommtr  And  autumn ;  bracing  air  and  grape  cure. 

LolSclie-lM-Baiiui  (30  hrs. ;  100  iV.).  — Various 
springs  \  hot  saline  earthy  waters,  70°  to  120°  F.  For  strunui, 
heipes,  and  skin  diseases,  scrofula,  rheumatism,  chronic 
broncldtts,  iuveterate  syphilis,  &c.     May  15  to  Sept.  30. 

lauohon  (191  hrs. ;  103i  fr.).  —  Upwards  of  fifty  dififer- 
ent  springs,  mineralized  by  hydi*o-8ulphuric  acid ;  aUo  ferm- 
ginoosand  alkaline.  For  rheumatism,  scrofula,  bionchial 
and  skin  diseases,  and  chronic  sores.    June  to  Sept. 

Iiiucenil  (11^  hrs. ;  60  !r.).  — Saline,  ferruginous,  and 
magnesian  waters;  eleven  springs,  70°  to  125°  F.  They 
are  first  excitant,  then  sedative ;  and  good  in  cases  of  neural- 
gia, rheumatism,  paralysis,  gastralgia,  &c. 

Madeira  (steamers  frbm  Southampton,  Bordeaux,  or  Lis- 
bon ;  journey  5  to  6  days ;  500  fr.).  —  Highly  recommended 
for  pulmonary  complaints ;  climate  delightful ;  no  winter. 

Mentone  (24*  hrs.;  139  fr.).  —  "Winter  station  of  first 
importance,  and  sea  baths.  For  all  forms  of  chest  diseases 
and  rhennuitism,  cachetic  complaints,  and  debility.  Winter 
season,  November  to  June ;  sea-bathing,  May  to  Oct. 

Monaco  (24*  hrs.;  138  fr.).  — Monte  Carb  is  the 
&vorite  winter  resort  of  pleasure-seekers.  One  of  the  most 
sheltered  stations  on  the  Riviera.     Sea  baths  -,  May  to  Oct. 

Mont-Doze (11  hrs.;  64i  fr.).  —  Bicarbonate,  arsen- 
ical, and  effervescent  ferruginous  waters,  107°  to  116°  F. 
For  all  forms  of  chest  diseases  and  of  the  respiratory  tract ; 
ophthalmia,  rheumatic  and  nervous  affections,  disorders  of 
the  uterus  and  skin.    June  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Naples  (48  hrs.;  223  fr.  85  c.).— The  great  variety  of 
mineral  waters  and  their  therapeutic  properties  have  rendered 
this  delightful  city  aud  its  envirans  the  most  frequented  bath- 
ing station  in  Italy.     Sea  baths. 

Nice  (22  bra.;  134  fr.  20  c.).  — Winter  stotion  of  first 
importance.  For  chronic  diseases  of  the  chest,  lungs,  and 
respiratory  organs ;  affections  of  the  larynx,  liver  complaints, 
disorders  of  the  spinal  cord,    diabetes,   gout,  rheumatism 


468  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  RESORTS^ 

paralysis,  debility.  Winter  season,  Nov.  to  June ;  lei  Iwthing 
season,  May  to  Oct ;  principal  season,  Jan.  to  Msrdi. 

Oitend  (14  hn,;  88  fr.  40  c.).— Sea  bdJia.  Sandy 
beach  and  bracing  climate.     Season,  Jane  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Palermo  (66i  brs. ;  239i  fr.).— Winter  atattion;  aea 
baths.   Season,  Nor.  to  April ;  bathing  season.  May  to  Ori. 

Pan  (17i  hrs.;  101  fr.).  — Winter  resort  of  first  fan- 
portance.  For  chest  oomplaints,  consumption  (inflammatory 
nation  and  blood-spitting),  asthma,  bronchitis,  rheamatiaiB, 
nenralgia,  and  nerrons  disorders.     Nov.  15  to  May  81. 

Pienrefonds  (2^  hrs. ;  12  fr.).  —  One  cold  sulphate  of 
lime  spring ;  one  ferruginousand  arsenicaL  Polmonaiy  catanfc. 

Plombltares  (11  hrs.;  45  fr.).— The  springs  rang* 
from  80^  to  176^  F.  For  rheumatism,  paralysis,  hnrpea, 
nervons  debility,  hysteria. 

Pougnes  (5  hrs.;  29  fr.  70  c).  —  Mixed  bicarbonate 
fermginons  gaseons  waters.   Affections  of  the  digestive  organs. 

Preate  (La)  (23J  hrs. ;  145  f.).  — Very  efficacious  wa- 
ters in  diseases  of  the  m-inary  organs,  gravel.   90^  to  105^  F. 

FtUliia.  —  No  treatment  at  PtUlna  itself;  the  waters  are 
exported,  and  considered  excellent  as  preservatives  and  reme- 
dies  against  diseases  of  the  digestive  organs,  constipation, 
congestions,  liver  and  bladder  complaints,  nervous  disorders, 
obesity,  diseases  of  the  eye,  headache,  and  gastritis. 

Fynnont  (18  hrs. ;  84  fr.  80  c.).  —  Chalybeate  springs 
of  importance  and  much  renown ;  effervescent  saline  waters, 
brine  baths,  inhalations.  For  female  complaints,  especially 
anieraia,  chlorosis,  scrofula,  stomachic  and  intestinal  catarrhs, 
obesity,  affections  of  spleen  and  liver.  Season,  May  15  to  Oct.  1. 

Recoaro  (84f  hrs.;  139f  fr.).  —  Alkaline,  acidulated 
fermginons  waters,  45®  F.  For  chronic  and  nervous  debil- 
ity, ftmale  diseases,  obesity,  anaemia,  chlorosis,  gravel  and 
vesical  calculus,  congestion  of  the  liver,  biliary  calculi,  hem- 
orrhoidal complaints,  intestinal  catarrhs.     May  to  Sept. 

Rome  (491  hrs.;  201  fr.  90  c.).  — Winter  station  of 
Irst  importance.  Fot  debility  and  scroftila  in  children, 
dironic  catarrh  of  the  bronchi,  emphysema.     The  climate  is 


MINERAL  WATERS,  SEA  BATHS,  ETC.      469 

sedative  to  the  nerrcs  and  respiratory  organs ;  but  i»atientft 
should  first  consolt  their  doctor.     Oct.  to  May. 

Roxachach.  —  Climatic  station  in  summer;  haths  m 
the  lake ;  Turkish  baths ;  very  pure  and  equable  atmosphere. 

Royat  (9i  hrs. ;  Blf  fr.)'.  —  Four  springs :  mixed  alka- 
line, gaseous,  ferruginons,  and  slightly  arsenical  and  lithic 
waters,  45®  to  95°  F.  For  lymphatic  affections,  anaemia, 
chlorosis,  catarrhal  affections,  arthritic  gout,  and  skin  dis- 
eases dependent  on  a  gouty  diathesis. 

St.  Gtalmier.  —  Alkaline  table  waters,  used  in  France. 

St.  Moritz  (34  hrs. ;  180  fr.  60  c).  —  Climatic  moun- 
tain-air station.  Two  ferruginous  springs,  very  cold  and 
very  effervescing.     For  phthisis. 

St.  Raphael  (19|  hrs.;  130  fr.  20  c.).— Winter  sta. 
tion  and  sea  baths ;  summer.  May  1  to  Nov.  1 ;  winter,. 
Nov.  1  to  June  1.  For  atonic  debility,  rachitis,  scrofula,, 
lymphatic  affections,  chest  and  lang  complaints,  £abetes, 
rheumatism,  gout,  emphysema,  ansema,  and  ehlorosis. 

San  Remo.  —  Winter  station  of  first  importance;  la> 
tent  scrofula,  chronic  bronchia],  stomachic,  and  intestinal 
catarrh,  emphysema,  pharyngitis,  laryngitis,  pleuritic  exu- 
dations,  incipient  phthisis,  rheumatism,  Bright's  disease,, 
diabetes,  and  general  debility.     Nov.  to  May. 

Sazon  (18  hrs.;  73  fr.  55  c).  —  Bromo-iodorated  sa- 
line waters,  60°  F.     For  syphilis,  scrofola,  and  gout. 

Scheveningen  (15i  hrs.;  67  fr.  70  c.).  — Very  well 
frequented  summer  resort ;  sea-bathing;  beach  of  fine  sands. 

Schinznach  (17  hrs. ;  72  fr.).  —  Sulphmwis  waters, 
rich  in  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  carbonic  acid,  also  in 
chloride  of  sodium  and  salts  of  lime,  95°  F.  For  chronic 
skin  diseases,  eczema,  acne,  psoiiasis,  &c.,  scrofula,  chronic 
catarrh,  bronchitis,  emphysema,  asthma,  rheumatism,  gout» 
syphilis,  mercurialism ;  May  to  Oct. 

Schlangenbad  (19  hrs.  10  min.;  81i  fr.).  — Nine 
springs,  76°  to  90°  F.  For  menstrual  difliculties  in  delicate 
women ;  general  debility  in  children,  women,  and  aged  per* 
sons ;  gout,  partial  paralysis.     May  1  to  Oct.  1. 

Sohwalbaoh  i20  hrs.:  83  fr.  5  c).  -—  Chalybeate  w; 


410  CLIMATIC  HEALTH  RESORTS, 

ten.  For  all  female  complaints ;  anaemia,  chlorosis,  nerroos 
affections,  debility  of  muscles  and  mucous  membranes,  espe- 
cially catarrbal  affections  of  the  genital  organs.  May  to  Oct. 

Spa  (8i  hrs.;  44i  fr.). —  Highly  effervescent  ferrugi- 
nous and  acidulous  waters.  For  aneemia,  chlorosis,  female 
complaints,  hysteria,  gastralgia,  sterility,  difficult  menstrua- 
tion, liver  complaints,  urinary  disorders,  cachexia,  mucous 
catarrh  of  the  uterus,  &c.  May  to  Oct. 

Spezzia  (28  hrs.;  130  fr.  40  c.).  — Winter  air-cure 
and  summer  sea-bathing  resort. 

TepUtz-SchOnau  (32  hrs. ;  1451  fr.).  —  Alkali-saline 
waters,  95^  to  125^  F.  For  rheumatism,  gout,  neuralgia, 
paralysis,  incipient  spinal  complaints,  scrofulous  tumors  and 
■sores,  fractures,  anchylosis,  &c.    May  to  Nov. 

Trouville  (6  hrs.;  28  fr.  65  c). --Fashionable  and 
much- frequented  summer  station ;  sea  baths,  sandy  beach. 

Uriage  (14|  hrs. ;  79  fr.). —  Saline  sulphurous  waters, 
\31^  F.  For  scrofula,  chronic  affections  of  the  skin,  rheuma- 
tism, nervous  affections,  diseases  of  the  eyelids,  granular 
pbuyngitis,  &c.     Milk  and  whey  cure.    May  15  to  Oct.  15. 

Valencia. —  Spanish  winter  resort ;  sea  baths,  sandy  beach. 

Vala  (171  hrs. ;  87  fr.-).  —  Cold  alkaline  springs,  light, 
medium,  and  strong ;  principally  used  as  table  waters.  For 
gravel,  Uver  complaints,  and  disorders  of  the  spleen. 

Venice  (86  hrs.  ;  154  fr.).  —  Sea  baths  and  winter  sta- 
tion ;  sedative  climate,  somewhat  like  that  of  Pan. 

Vevey  (161  hrs.;  861  fr.)-  —  Air-cure  station,  much 
frequented  on  account  of  the  mildness  of  its  temperature. 

viohy  (81  hrs. ;  45  fr.). —  Bicarbonate  of  soda  alkaline 
springs,  35°  to  105°  F.  For  dyspepsia,  hepatic  disorders, 
uric  acid  diathesis,  catarrh  of  the  urinary  organs,  diabetes. 

VOslau  (27f  hi-s. ;  156  fr.  95  c).  —  A  favorite  climatic 
resort  of  the  Viennese.  May  16  to  Sept,  30;  grape  cure, 
Sept.  to  Oct. 

Wiesbaden  (15  hrs. ;  86  fr.  45  c).  —  The  waters  are 
^excitant,  resolvent,  reconstituent,  and  laxative,  30**  to  165®  F. 
Por  scrofula,  rheumatism,  paralysis,  and  impaired  digestion. 

Zurich  (18  hrs. ;  85  fr.  10  c.).  — Earthy  alkaline  waters. 


DIPLOMATIO  AHD  OOITSIILAE  AGEITS  OP 
THE  raiTED  STATES' 

IN  THE 

PRINCIPAL  EUROPEAN  COUNTRIES 


AustrianHtmgaxy.     . 

Vienna        .      Minister^  Bartlett  TbipP'. 

*'  .         Con,-Gen.^  MaxJudd. 
Pesth,  .  Vice-Consuly  Louis  Gerster. 

Prague  *  Constd,  Carl  Bailey  Hurst. 

Trieste         .  **        J.  E.  Nettles. 

Flume  .  Agent,  G,  Gelletich. 

Belgium. 

Brussels  .    *  Minister,  J  axes  8,  TS,wtsq, 
"        .        .      Constd,  G.  W.  Roosevelt. 

Antwerp  .        .      **         Harvey  Johnson. 
Charleroi         .       Agent,  J.  Fisher  Reese. 

Ghent  .        .  Consul,  Henry  C.  Morris, 
li^       .       .         **        Heni-y  W.  Gilbert. 

Verviers  •       .   Agent,  Henry  Dodt. 

Denmark. 

Minister,  John  E.  RisLir. 
Consul,  Robert  J.  Kirk. 
.  Agent,  Alfred  Christensen. 


Copenhagen 
Elsinoie      • 


472  DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAR  AGENTS. 


France. 

James  B.  Eustis. 
Henry  Vignaud. 
Samuel  £.  Morss. 
Charles  T.  C^rellet. 
Ghaa.  W.  Sfaepard. 
Benj.  A.  Conrcelle. 
John  M.  Wiley. 
J.  Morris  Post. 
C.  W.  Chancellor. 
A.  PiteL 

H.  J.  E.  HainneviUe. 
Frederick  Fitz  Gerald. 
Walter  T.  Griffin. 
Frank  £.  ii^de. 
Claude  M.  Thomas. 
L,  J.  B.  Jouve. 
C.  J.  Dietrich. 
Wilbum  B.  Hall. 
Philip  T.  Riddett. 
Au^  Clericy. 
Emile  de  Loth. 
H.  P.  Du  Bellet. 
Horatio  B.  Bigelow. 
BaouUe  Bourgeois* 

Germany. 

Berlin    .      Ambassador,  Edwin  F.  Uhl. 

**        Sec,  of  Legation,  John  B.  Jackson. 

'^  Consul'Qeneraly  Charles  de  Kay. 

Aix-La-Chapelle   Consul,  William  C.  Emmet. 
Bremen        .        .     "       George  Keenan. 
Brunswick        .        ''       Edward  W.  8.  Tingle. 
Cologne       .        .     '*       William  D.  Wamer. 
Crefeld     .       .         '*       Peter  V.  Deuster. 


Paris 

Ambassador, 

*'      .Sec,  of  Legation, 

i( 

Algiers 
CiOais     . 

Consul, 

Oran   . 

.    Agent, 

Bordeaux 

Consul, 

Pan     . 

.    AgerU, 

Havre     • 

Consul, 

Brest 

.    Agent, 

Cherbourg 

• 

Cognac 

.   Consul, 

Limoges 

Comm.  Agent, 

Lyons 

.   Consul, 

Marseilles 

(4 

« 

Toulon 

.    Agent, 

Nantes 

Consul, 

Nice 

44           ' 

Cannes  . 

Agent, 

Mentone 

41 

Monaco 

• 

Bheims 

.   Cmsvl, 

Bouen 

Dieppe 

•       •     Agent, 

OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


478 


Dresden      Consul 
Dttsseldorf 
Frankfort  Consul 
Hamburg 
Leipsic 

Mannheim       * 
Mayence 
Munich    . 
Nuremberg 
Stuttgart . 


General, 
Consul, 

Qeneral^ 
Consul^ 


-Consulj 
Consul^ 


William  S.  OarroU 
Peter  lieber. 
Frank  H.  Mason. 
W.  H.  Bobertson. 
Otto  Doederlein. 
Max  Goldfinger. 
Perry  Bartholow. 
J.  L:  Coming. 
William  J.  Black. 
Alfred  C.  Johnson. 


Great  Britain. 


London 


Liverpool 

Belfast    . 

Birmingham 

Kidderminster 

Wolverhampton 

Bradford 

Bristol 

Cardiff     . 

Cork     . 

Dublin     . 

Dundee 

Falmouth 

Gibraltar 

Glasgow  • 

Hull     . 

Leeds       , 

Leith 

Manchester 

Newcastle 

Nottingham 


Ambassador, 

Sec.  of  Legation, 

Consul-general, 


Agent, 
Consul, 


Thomas  F.  BAYiiu), 
James  B.  Roosevelt* 
Patrick  A.  Collins. 
Consviy  James  E.  NeaL 
"       James  B.  Taney. 
George  F.  Parker. 
James  Morton. 
John  Neve. 
Claude  Meeker. 
Lorin  A.  Lathrop, 
Anthony  Howells. 
Lucien  J.  Walker. 
Newton  B.  Ashby. 
John  M.  Savage. 
Howard  Fox. 
Horatio  J.  Sprague. 
Allen  B.  Morse. 
Richard  L.  Miller. 
Norfleet  Harris. 
Robert  J.  McBride.  ^ 
William  F.  GrinnelL 
William  S.  CampbelL 
AsaD.  Dickinson.. 


474     DIPLOMATIC  AND  CONSULAB  AGENTS 


Plymouth    . 

.     Consul,  Thomas  W.  Fox. 

Sheffield  . 

"        B.  R.  Bedle. 

Southampton 

Warner  S.  Kinkead. 

Greece. 

Athens 

.  Minister,  Eben  Alexander. 

(( 

Consul,  George  Horton. 

Pirsbus    *   . 

Agent,  Apollo  Abbati. 

Italy. 

Bome 

Ambassador,  Wayne  MagYkagh. 

.  Sec, 

of  Legation^  Larz  Anderson. 

**     .        Constd-G'eneraly  Wallace  S.  Jones. 

Castellamare  Comm.  Agent,  H.  G.  Huntington. 

Civita  Vecchia 

Agent,  G.  Marsanich. 

Morenee  . 

Consul,  0.  Belmont  Davis. 

Grenoa 

"       James  Fletcher. 

Leghorn   . 

A.  a  Rosenthal 

Messina 

Chas.  M.  Caughy. 

Milan       . 

**        D.  B.  Spagnoli 

Naples 
Palermo  . 

**        Frank  A.  Dean. 

**        William  H.  Seymour* 

Venice 

'*        Henry  A.  Johnson. 

Holland. 

TheHngue  . 
Amsterdam 

Minister,  William  E^  Quinbt. 

.    Consul,  Edwardpownes. 

**        Lars  g.  Reque. 

Flushing 

.      Agent,  Peter  Sn^ith. 

Portugal. 

Lisbon 

Ministet^,  Ge6rge  W.  Caruth. 

Oporto    * 

Agent,  William  Stiive. 

Boiimania. 
(Resident,  Athens)  Minister.  Eben  Alexander. 
'■Bucharest  V,'Con,'Qeneral,yf,  G.  BoxshalL 


OP  THE  UNITED  STATES, 


475 


Bussia. 
6t.  Beteisburg      Minister^  C.  R.  Bbeckenridge. 

"        Sec.  cf  Legation,  H.  H.  D.  Peirce. 

'^  Cantul-Qensral,  John  Karel.  ' 

Moscow    y  .  Conml,  A.  Billhardt. 

Helsingfors        Vice-ConstU,  Herman  Donner. 
Odessa  .         Consul,  Thos.  E.  Heenan^ 

Cronstadt     .        .     Agent,  Peter  Vigius. 
Warsaw   •        .         Consuh  Joseph  Rawicz. 

Spain. 

Madrid  .  Minister,  Hannis  Taylor. 

"  8ec,  of  Legation,  H.  C.  Armstrong,  Jr. 
Alicante  •  Vice-Constd,  J.  L.  Giro. 

Barcelona  Conml-Oeneral,  Herbert  W.  Bowen. 

Cadiz  .        .      Consul,  Chas.  L.  Adams. 
Malaga     •       .  ''       R.  M.  Bartlemau. 

Santander  .        •       Agent,  F.  Adriozola. 

Sweden  and  Norway. 
Stockhobn  .         Minister,  Thomas  B.  Ferguson; 

"      .        .         Consul,  Thomas  B.  O'Neil. 
Ohristiania  •       •         '*       Gerhard  Gade. 
Bergen     .        •  ''       Ernest  A.  Man. 

Gothenburg        .         "       Otto  H.  Boyesen. 

Switzerland. 
Berne  Minister,  John  L.  Peak. 

Basle       •        •        Consul,  George  Gif^ord. 
Geneva        .       •         "       Benj.  H.  Ridgely^ 
Zurich       •       •  '*       Eugene  Germain. 

Turkey. 

Constantinople      Minister,  Alex.  W.  Terrelu 
"  Sec.  cfLeg.,  John  W.  Riddle. 

"  ConstU'Geti,,  Luther   Short. 


A  SHORT  VOCABULARY 

IN  ENGLISH,  FRENCH 


One. 

Two. 

Three. 

Four. 

Five. 

43ix. 

^yeiL 

Eij^ht 

Nine. 

Ten. 

Eleyen. 

Twelve. 

Thirteen. 

Fourteen. 

Fifteen. 

Sixteen. 

Seventeen. 

Eighteen. 

Nineteen. 

Twenty. 

Twenty-one. 

Twenty-two. 

Twenty-three,  etc. 

Thirty. 

Thirty-one. 

Thirty-two,  etc. 

Forty. 

Fifty. 

Sixty. 

Seventy. 


Un. 

Deux. 

Trois. 

Quatre. 

Cinq. 

Six. 

Sept. 

Huit 

Neufl 

Dix. 

Onze. 

Douze. 

Treize. 

Quatorae. 

Quinze. 

Seize. 

Dix-se]9t. 

Dix-huit. 

Dix-neuf. 

Vingt. 

Vingt-et-un. 

Vingt-deux. 

Vingt-trois,  ete. 

Trente. 

Trente-et-un. 

Trente-deux,  eto. 

Quarante. 

Ginquante. 

Soixante. 

Soixante-dix, 


OP  WORDS  AND  PHRASES 
<5ERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN. 


Eins. 

Uno. 

Zwei. 

Due. 

Brei. 

Tre. 

Vier. 

Quattro. 

Funf. 

Cinque. 

Sechs. 

Sei. 

Sieben. 

Settc.  • 

Acbt. 

Otto. 

Neuii. 

Nove. 

Zehn. 

Dieci. 

Elf. 

Undici. 

Zwolf. 

Dodici. 

Drekehn. 

Tredici. 

Vierzehn. 

Quattordici. 

EiinfiEehn. 

Quindici. 

Sechxelm. 

Sedici. 

Siebzehn. 

Diecisette;  diciasette. 

Achtzebn. 

Dieciotto;  diciotto. 

Neunsebn. 

Diecinove;  diciannoye. 

Zwanzig. 

Ein  und  zwanzig. 

Venti. 
Vent|  uno. 

Zwei  imd  zwanzig. 

Venti  due. 

Drei  nnd  zwanzig,  etc. 

Venti  tre,  etc. 

Dreissif . 

Ein  una  dreiseig. 

Trenta. 

Trent'  uno. 

Zwei  und  dreissig,  etc. 

Trenta  due,  eta 

Vierzij^. 

Quaranta. 

Fiinfzig. 

Cinquanta. 

Sechzig. 

Sessanta. 

Siebzig. 

Settanta. 

478     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISq^ 


Eighty. 
Ninety 
A  hundred. 
Two  hundred,  etc. 
A  thousand. 
Meven  hundred. 
Twelve  hundred. 
Two  thousand,  etc. 
A  million. 
The  first 
The  second. 
The  third. 
The  fourth. 
The  fifth. 
The  sixth. 
The  seventh. 
The  eighth. 
The  ninth. 
The  tenth. 
The  eleventh. 
The  last. 
The  hai  bat  one. 
Once. 
Twice. 
The  half.. 
The  third. 
The  fourth. 
The  fifth. 
The  sixth,  eto. 
A  river. 
'  A  fountain. 
A  waterfall 


Ail  hour, 
"^alf  an  hour. 


Qjiatre-vingt. 
Quatie-vingt-dix 
Cent. 

Deux  cents,  elK 
Mille. 

Onze  cents. 
Douze  cents. 
Deux  mille,  et^ 
Un  million. 
Le  premier, 
Le  second. 
Le  troisi^me. 
Le  quatri^me. 
Le  cinqui^me; 
Le  sixieme. 
Le  septieme. 
Le  huiti^me. 
Le  neuvi^me. 
Le  dixieme. 
Le  onzieme. 
Le  dernier. 
L'avant-demier. 
Une  fois. 
Deux  fois. 
La  moiti^.    DemL 
Le  tiers. 
Le  quart. 
Le  cmqui^me. 
Le  sixieme,  eta» 
Une  rivifere. 
Une  fontaine. 
Une  cascade. 
La  porte. 
Une  heure. 
,  Une  demi-benra; 


FRENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN.       479 


Achtxi^. 
Keanzig. 
Hundert. 
Zweihundert,  etc. 
Tausend. 
Elfhundert. 
Zwolfhundert. 
Zwei  Tausend,  etc. 
Eine  Million. 
Der  Erete. 
Der  Zweite. 
Der  Dritte. 
Der  Vierte. 
Der  Funfte. 
Der  Secbste. 
Der  Siebente. 
Der  Aclite. 
Der  Neunte. 
Der  Zehnte. 
Der  Elfte. 
Der  Letete. 
Der  Voiietzte. 
Einmal. 
Zweimal. 

DieHalfte.     Halb- 
Das  Drittel. 
Das  Viertel. 
Das  Fiinffcel. 
Das  Secbstel,  etc. 
Ein  Fluss. 
Ein  Brunnen. 
Eia  Wasserfali. 
Das  Thor. 
Eine  Stunde. 
f)iue  balbe  Stunde. 


Ottanta. 

Novanta. 

Cento. 

Dueceuto ;  dugeato,  ete. 

Mille. 

Mille  cento. 

Mille  dugento. 

Due  mila,  etc. 

Un  milione. 

II  primo. 

II  secondo. 

II  terzo. 

U  quarto. 

II  quinto. 

II  sesto. 

II  settimo. 

L*  ottavo. 

II  nono. 

II  decimo. 

L'undecimo;  decimo  prinuv 

L'  ultimo. 

II  penultimo. 

Una  volta. 

Due  volte. 

La  meta.    Mezza, 

II  terzo. 

II  quarto. 

II  quinto. 

II  sesto,  etc. 

Un  fiume. 

Una  fontaua ;  una  foBle. 

Una  cascata. 

La  porta. 

Un'  ora. 

Una  mezz'  or». 


480     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


A  qiiarter  of  an  hour. 

Sunday. 

Monday. 

Tuesday. 

Wednesday. 

Thursday. 

Friday. 

Saturday. 

A  holiday 

The  walk  of  the  town. 

A  monument. 

The  tower. 

A  church. 

The  cathedral,  minster. 

A  convent. 

A  chapel. 

A  palace* 

The  town-hall. 

The  castle. 

The  theatre. 

The  custom-house. 

The  post-of&ce. 

The  library. 

The  university. 

The  exchange. 

The  bank. 

A  square. 

A  bridge. 

A  shop. 

A  bookseller's  shop. 

A  coffee-house. 

An  inn ;  a  hotel, 

A  dining-house. 

A  famished  room. 

"^reakfast. 


Un  quart  d'heure 

Bimanche. 

Lundi. 

Mardi. 

Mercredi 

Jeudi. 

Vendredi. 

Samedi. 

Un  jour  de  fete. 

Les  murs  de  k  viUft. 

Un  monument. 

La  tour. 

Une  eglise. 

La  cathedrale. 

Un  convent. 

Une  chapeMe. 

Un  palais. 

L'hotel  de  vilfe. 

Le  chateau. 

Le  th^tre. 

La  douane. 

Le  bureau  des  posteiw 

La  bibliotheque. 

L'universite. 

La  bourse. 

La  banque. 

Une  place. 

Un  pont. 

Une  boutique. 

Une  librairie. 

Un  caf6. 

Une  auberge ;  un  h6tel 

Un  restaurant. 

Une  chambrc  gamie. 

Le  deieuner. 


FKENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN.       481 


Sine  yiertel  Stunde. 

Sonntag. 

Montftg. 

Dienstag. 

Mittwoch. 

Donnerstag. 

Freitag. 

Samstag;  Sonuabend. 

Ein  Feiertag;  ein  Festtag. 

Die  Stadtmaueru. 

Ein  Denkmal. 

Der  Thurm. 

Eine  Kirche. 

Das  Miinster ;  der  Dom. 

Ein  Kloster. 

Eine  Xapelle. 

Ein  Palast. 

Das  Rathhatts. 

Das  Schloss. 

Das  Schauspielhaus. 

Das  Zollhaus,  Mauthhaus. 

Die  Post. 

Die  Bibliotliek. 

Die  Dniversitat. 

Die  Borse. 

Die  Bank. 

Ein  Platz. 

Eine  Briicke. 

Ein  Xaufladen. 

Ein  Buchladen. 

Ein  Xaffehaus. 

EinGasthaus;  einGastliof. 

Ein  Speisehaus. 

Ein  moblirtes  Zimmer. 

Das  Fmbstuck. 


Un  quarto  d'  era. 

Domenica. 

Lunedi. 

Martedi. 

Mercoledi. 

Giovedi. 

Venerdi.* 

Sabbato. 

Un  giorao  di  festa. 

Le  mura  della  citta. 

Un  monumento. 

La  torre. 

Una  chiesa. 

La  cattedrale. 

Un  convento. 

Una  cappella. 

Un  palazzo. 

La  casa  della  cittfl. 

II  castelio. 

II  teatro. 

La  do^na. 

L'  nffizio  delle  poste. 

La  biblioteca ;  la  libreriiu 

L'  universita. 

La  borsa. 

La  banca. 

Una  piazza. 

Un  ponte. 

Una  bottega. 

Una  libreria. 

Un  caffe. 

Un'albergo;  unaloeanda 

Un  trattore. 

Una  stanza  mobigliata. 

La  colazione. 


483      WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


LuncheoQ. 

Soup. 

Roast-bee^ 

Beef-steak* 

Veal. 

MuttoQ. 

Pork. 

Pish. 

Eggs. 

Cake. 

Butter.  ^ 

Cheese. 

Beer. 

Ale. 

Port 

Sherry. 

Ices. 

A  railway. 

An  express  train. 

That  is  true. 

I  believe  so. 

It  is  late. 

i  am  fatigued. 

I  am  thirsty;  I  am  hungry. 

It  is  time  to  set  off. 

That  is  not  true. 

I  did  not  understand. 

Who  is  it  ? 

What  are  you  doing  ? 

What  do  you  want  ? 

Where  are  you  ? 

Where  is  he  P 

What  is  he  doing  ? 

Where  are  you  going  ? 

What  do  you  say  ? 


Une  collation. 

La  soupe. 

Du  boeuf  roti,  roast-beet 

Beef-steak. 

Du  veau. 

Du  mouton. 

Du  cochon. 

Le  poisson. 

Des  oeufs. 

Le  gateau. 

Le  beurre. 

Le  fromage. 

La  biere. 

Jjsle. 

Le  vin  d*Oporto. 

Le  vin  de  Xeres. 

Les  glaces. 

Un  chemin  de  fei. 

Uji  train  de  vitesse. 

C'est  vrai. 

Je  le  crois. 

II  est  tard. 

Je  suis  fatign^. 

J'ai  soif ;  j'ai  faim. 

II  est  temps  de  partir. 

Cela  n'est  pas  vrad. 

Je  n'avais  pas  compris. 

Qui  est-ce  ? 

Que  faites-vous  ? 

Qwe  voulez-vous  P 

Oil  etes-vous  P        * 

Ouest-ilP 

Quefait-il? 

Ou  allez-vous  ? 

Que  dites-vous^ 


FRENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITALIAN.        483 


Eiae  Zwischen-Mahlzeit. 

Die  Suppe. 

Ochsenoraten. 

Beef-steak. 

Kalbfleisch. 

Haimnelfleisch. 

Schweinefleisch. 

Der  Fisch. 

Eier. 

Der  Kuchen. 

Die  Butter. 

Der  Ease. 

Das  Bier. 

Das  Ale. 

Der  Portwein. 

Xeresweiu. 

Das  Eis. 

Eiae  Eisenbahn. 

Ein  Schnellzug. 

Das  ist  wahr. 

Ich  glaube  es. 

Es  ist  spat. 

Ich  bin  miide. 

Ich  bin  durstig;  hungrig. 

Es  ist  Zeit  abziireisen. 

Das  ist  nicht  wahr. 

Ich  verstand  nicht. 

Weristes? 

Was  machen  Sie  ? 

Was  wollen  Sie  ? 

Wosind  Sie? 

Woister? 

Was  macht  er  ? 

Wohin  gehen  Sie  ? 

W^as  sagenSie? 


Una  colazione. 

La  zuppa.  ^ 

Dell'  arrosto  di  bue. 

Beef-steak. 

Del  vitello. 

Del  castrato. 

Del  majale. 

II  pesce. 

Delle  uova. 

La  focaccia. 

II  burro,  butiro. 

II  formaggio. 

La  birra. 

La  birra  fatta  con  fonnento. 

II  vino  d*  Oporto. 

U  vino  di  Xeres. 

I  sorbetti ;  i  gelati. 

Una  strada  ferrata. 

Convoglio  celere, 

E  vero. 

Lo  credo. 

t  tardi. 

Sono  stracco. 

Ho  sete ;  ho  fame. 

fe  ora  di  partire. 

Cib  non  e  vero. 

Non  aveva  capito. 

Chie? 

Che  cosa  fate  ? 

Che  cosa  volete  ? 

Dove  siete  ? 

Dov'^? 

Che  cosa  fa  ? 

Dove  andate  ? 

Che  cosa  dite  P 


484     WOKDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


Did  you  understand  me  ? 
Is  dmner  ready  ? 
Is  it  time  to  go  F 
Where  shall  we  go  ? 
When  shall  we  set  out? 
Are  there  any  letters  for 

me? 
Come  here. 
Make  haste. 
Tell  him  to  come. 

Take  care.     Stop. 
Not  so  quick. 
Speak  to  him. 
Do  what  I  tell  you. 

Go  away. 

Bring  up  the  carriage. 

Call   (wake)   me    at    five 

o'clock. 
Yesterday. 
To-day. 
To-morrow. 
Every  day. 
What  name  do  you  give  to 

that  dish  ? 
Biing  me  some  bread. 

Bring  me  a  glass  of  water. 

How  much  for  wine  ? 
What  is  the  name  of  it  ? 
At  what  hour  shall  we  ar- 
rive at  X  ? 


M'avez-vous  compris? 
Le  diner  est-il  pretP 
Est-il  temps  de  partirP 
Oil  irons-nous  ? 
Quand  partirons-nous? 
Y  a-t-il  des  lettres  poof 

moi? 
Venez-ici. 
Depechez-vous. 
Dites-lui  de  venir. 

Prenez  garde.    Arretet 

Pas  si  vite. 

Parlez-lui. 

Eaites  ce  que  je  vous  dis, 

AUez-vous  en. 

Eaites  avancer  la  voiture. 


cmq 


Bicveillez-moi    a 

heures. 
Hier. 

Aujourd'hui. 
Demain. 
Tons  les  jours. 
Quel  nom  donnez-vous  ^ 

ce  metsP 
Apportez-moi  du  pain. 

Apportez-moi     un     Terre 

d'eau. 
Combien  le  vin  ? 
Comment  I'appelez-vousP 
A  quelle  heure  arriveron^ 

nous  a  X? 


FRENCH,  GERMAN,  AND  ITAUAN.       48^ 


fiaben  Sie  verstanden  ? 
1st  das  Mittaffsessen  fertig  ? 
1st  es  Zeit  aozureisen  ? 
Wohin  sollen  wir  gehen  ? 
Wann  sollen  wir  abreisen? 
Sind  Briefe  fiir  mich  da  ? 

Kommen  Sie  hier. 

Beeileii  Sie  sicli. 

Sagen  Sie  ihin,  er  moge 

kommen. 
Geben  Sie  Ackt.     Halt. 
Nicht  so  schnell. 
Sprechen  Sie  mit  ibm. 
Thun  Sie,  was  icli  Ihnen 

sage. 
Geben  Sie  weg. 
Lassen  Sie  den  Wagen  vor- 

fahren. 
Wecken  Sie  micb  um  fjinf 

Ubr. 
Gestern. 
Heute. 
Morgen. 
AUe  Tage. 
Welchen  Namen  geben  Sie 

diesem  Gericbte  ? 
Bringen    Sie    mir    etwas 

Brod. 
Bringen  Sie  mir  ein  Glas 

Wasser. 
Wie  viel  fur  den  Wein  P 
Wie  heisst  er  ? 
Um  wie  viel  Ubr  werden 

wir  in  X  ankonimen  ? 


Mi  avete  capita  ^ 
£  pronto  ii  pranzo  ? 
£  egli  ora  di  pavtire  f 
Dove  andremo  ? 
Quando  partirewo  ? 
Ci  sono  lettere  per  me  f' 

Venite  qua. 
Spicciatevi. 
Bitegli  ehe  venga. 

Badate.    Jermatevi. 

Nou  eos\  presto. 

Parlategli. 

Fate  quel  cbe  vi  dico. 

Andate  via. 

Pate  venir  avanti  la  cat*. 

rozza. 
Svegbatemi  aUe  einqne. 

leri. 

Dimani. 

Ogni  giomo. 

Come  chiamate  qnesta  pie- 

tanza? 
Portatemi  del  pane. 

E;ecatemi  un  biecbier  d'a(v 

qua. 
Quanto  costa  il  vino  ? 
Come  si  cbiama  ? 
A  ehe  ora  arrivereuo  noK. 

aX? 


486     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


What  railway  is  tliat  ? 

Is  it  more  expeusive  ? 
At  what   hoar  does    the 

steamboat  start  ? 
What  is  the  fare? 

Have  you  a  priated  tariff? 

Is  the  road  easy  to  find  ? 

How&risittoX? 

What  is  the  usual  ehai^e 

by  the  day  ? 
At  what  hour  does  it  start  ? 

Which  is  the  best  hotel  at 

X? 
Are  the  charges  moderate  ? 
Where  is  the  station  for  X  ? 
Ts  this  the  train  to  X  ? 
How    soon    shall  we    be 

there  ? 
iStop,  coachman !  we  wish 

to  get  out 
When  must  I  be  ready? 

I  wish  to  see  the  landlord 

of  the  hotel. 
Where  is  the  water-closet? 
Bring  me  fresh  water. 

Z  wish  to  have  breakfast 
(supper). 


Quel  est  ce  cheminde  fer? 

Est-ceplus  cherP 

A  quelle  heure  le  bateau  a 
vapeur  part-il  ? 

Quel  est  le  prix  du  pas- 
sage? 

Avez-vous  un  tarif  im- 
prime  ? 

Trouve-t-on  facilement  le 
chemin  ? 

Combien  y  a-t-il  d'ici  a  X? 

Combien  donne-t-6n  ordi- 

nairement  par  jour  ? 
A  quelle  heure  part-elle  ? 

Quel  est  le  meilleur  hotel 

aX? 
Y  a-t-on  bon  march^  ? 
Ou  est  Pembarcad^re  de  X? 
Est-ce  la  le  train  pour  X  ? 
Quand  arriverons-nous  ? 

Arret/Cz,  cocher !  nous  voii- 

lous  descendre. 
A  quelle  heure  feut-il  ^tre 

pret? 
Je  desire  parler  au  maitre 

de  rhotel. 
Oil  sont  les  lieux  d'aisance  ? 
Apportez  de  Peau  fraiche. 

Je  desirerais  dejeuner  (sou- 
per). 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   ANB  ITALIAN.       48r 


Was  ist  das  fur  eine  Eisen- 

babn? 
Ist  68  theurer? 
Um  wie  viel  Uhr  fahrt  das 

DamDfschiff  ab  P 
Wie  viel  betragt  das  Passa- 

mergeld  ? 
Haoen  Sie  einen  gedruck- 

ten  Tarif? 
Ist  der  Weg  leicht  zu  fin- 

den? 
Wie  weit  ist  es  von  hier 

nach  XP 
Was  bezalilt  man  gewohn- 

licb  fur  den  Tag  ? 
Um  wie  viel  Uhr  fabrt  er 

ab? 
Welches    ist    der     beste 

Gasthof  inX? 
Ist  es  billig  dort  ? 
WoistderBahnhofnachXP 
Ist  dies  der  Zug  nach  X? 
Wie  bald  werden  wir  dort 

sein? 
Halt,  Kutscher !  Wir  wol- 

len  aussteigen. 
Wann  muss  ich  fertig  sein  ? 

Ich  wiinsche  den  Herm  des 

Hauses  zu  sehen. 
Wo  ist  der  Abtritt  ? 
Bringen  sie  frisches  Was- 

ser. 
Ich  wiinsche  das  Friihstiick 

(das  Abendessen). 


Quale  e  quests  strada  fer> 

rata? 
E  plili  caro  P 
A  che  ora  parte  il  batello 

a  vapore  r 
Quanto  costa  il  trasporto 

de*  passe^gieri  P 
Avete  una  hsta  stampata. 

fi  la  via  facile  a  trovarsi? 

Quanto  distante  e  X  • . .  da- 

qui? 
Quanto  si  spende  al  giom(K 

di  solito  ? 
A  che  ora  parte  P 

Qual  e  il  miglior  albergo  in 

X?^ 
Sono  i  prezzi  equi  cola  ? 
Dov'  e  r  imbareatoio  di  X  ? 
E  quello  il  traiiio  per  X  P 
Ci  arriveremo  presto  ? 

Fennatevi,  vettmrino,  vo- 
gliamo  disceiidere. 

A  che  ora  debbo  esser 
pronto? 

Vorrei  parlare  al  maestro"^ 
di  casa. 

Dov'  e  la  ritirata  P 

Portatemi  dell'  aequafresca^ 

Vorrei  far  colazione  (ce- 
nare). 


488     WOEi>S  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 
Crive  me  sonetking  to  eat. 
At  what  kour  do  we  dine  ? 


Show  me  your  bill  of  fare 

and  list  of  wines. 
Bring  me  the  uew^per. 
Is  he  ready  P 
Which  is  the  way  to  the 

post-ofice  P 
How  much  is  the  postage  P 
•Send  that  letter  to  the  post 

Where  does  a  banker  live  ? 
i  wish  to  see  a  medical  man. 

What  fee  should  I  give 

himp 
Can  I  have  a  warm  bath  P 

Bring  me  some  soap. 
Order  a  kaekaey-coach  for 

me. 
Make  a  good  fire. 
How  mmek  have  I  to  pay? 

Bring  me  my  account. 

Turn    to    the  right,   left, 

straight  forward. 
How  much  is  charged  for 

admission  P 
What    direction    must    I 

take? 
Can  I  hare  dinner  ? 


Donnez-moi  quelque  chose 

a  manger. 
A    quelle    heure    dinons- 

nousP 
Montrez-moi  la  carte. 


Apportez-moi  le  journal. 
Est-ilpretP  i 

Pournez-vous   m'indiquer 

la  pK)ste  aux  lettres  ? 
Combien  pour  le  port  ? 
Faites  jeter  cette  lettre  a  la 

poste. 
Oil  demeure  un  banqiiier  ? 
Je  desire  voir  un  m^decin. 

Combien  faut-il  lui  donner? 

Pourrais-je  avoir  uii  bain 

cliaud  ? 
Apportez-moi  du  saron. 
Faites-moi  venir  uae  voi* 

ture  de  lonaffo. 
Faites  un  bon  ten. 
Combien  dois-je  ? 

Apportez-moi  moa  oompte. 

Prenez  a  droite,  a  gauche, 

marchez  toutdrmt. 
Quel  est  le  prix  d'entree  ? 

Quelle  direction  faut-il  que 

je  prenne  P 
Pourrais-je  y  diner  ? 


FRENCH,  GERMA.N,  AND  ITALIAN.       489 


Geben  Sie  mir  etwas  zu 

essen. 
U  m  wie  viel  Uhr  speisen  wir 

zu  Mittag  ? 
Eeigen  Sie  mir  den  Speise- 

zettel. 
Bringen  Sie  mir  die  Zeitung. 
1st  er  bereit  ? 
Welches  ist  derWeg  zur 

Post? 
Wie  viel  betragt  das  Porto  ? 
Senden  Sie  diesen  Brief  zur 

Post. 
Wo  wohnt  ein  Banquier  ? 
Ich  wiinsche  einen  Arzt  zu 

sprechen. 
Wie  viel  Honorar  soil  icli 

ihm  gebea  ? 
Kann  icfi  ein  warmes  Bad 

bekommen  P 
Bringen  Sie  mir  Seife. 
Bestellen    Sie     mir    eine 

Lohnkutsche. 
Machen  Sie  ein  gut/CsPeuer. 
Wie  viel  habe  ich  zu  be- 

zahlen. 
Bringen  Sie  mir  die  Rech- 

nung. 
Gehen  Sie    rechts,  links, 

^eradeaus. 
Wie  hoch  ist  der  Eintritts- 

preis? 
Welche  Bichtung  muss  ich 

nehmen  P 
Kan  ich  das  Mittagsessen 

haben  P 


Datemi    qualche    cosa  da 

mangiare  P 
A  che  ora  si  pranza  P 

Mostratemi  la  lista  e  la  noU 

dei  vini. 
Portatemi  la  gazzetta. 
E  egli  all*  ordine  P 
Potreste  indicarmi  il  cam. 

mino  che  va  alia  posta  P 
Quanto  costa  il  porto  P 
Fate  portare  questa  lettera 

alia  posta. 
Dove  abita  un  banchiere  ? 
Desidererei  parlare  con  un 

medico. 
Quanto  gli  debbo  dare  P 

Potrei    avere    un     bagno 

caldo? 
Portatemi  un  po'  di  sapone. 
Ordinatemi  una  carrozza  da 

nolo,  un  fiacre. 
Pate  un  buon  fuoco. 
Quanto  vi  debbo  ? 

Portatemi  il  mio  conto. 

Si  Volga  a  destra,  a  sinistra, 

vada  diritto. 
Quanto  costa  il  biglietto 

d'ingresso  ? 
Qual  direzione  devo  pren- 

dere  ? 
Potro  avervi  il  pranzo  P 


490     WORDS  AND  PHRASES  IN  ENGLISH, 


How  much  P 

Have  you  no  better  ? 

It  is  fine. 
It  is  very  hot. 
Does  it  rain  P 
It  is  cold. 
Send  for  a  cab. 

Coachman,  drive  me  to  the 
station. 

Where  is  the  baggage- 
room  P 

Please  to  give  me  two  first- 
class  tickets  to  X. 

Here  iney  are. 
What  do  they  cost  ? 

At  what  hour  is   supper 

ready. 
That 's  very  dear. 
Where  are  our  rooms  ? 

Have  any  letters  arrived  for 
Mr.  N.,  poste  restante? 
Here  is  my  passport. 
Is  breakfast  ready  ? 
Give  me  a  drink. 
What  o'clock  is  it? 
What  kind  of  weather  is  it  ? 
How  do  you  do  ? 
Very  wefl,  I  thank  you. 
Have  you  a  room  to  let  P 


Combien  ? 

N*avez-vous  rien  de  me3« 

leurP 
II  fait  beau. 
II  fait  tres  chaud. 
Pleut-il? 
II  fait  froid. 
Faites  chercher  un  fiacre. 

Cocher,  conduisez-moi  au 

chemin  de  fer. 
Oil  est  ie  bureau  de  ba- 

gages  P 
Deux  billets  de  premiere 

classe  pour  X,  s'il  vous 

|)Mt. 
Voila,  monsieur. 
Combien  ces  billets  ? 

A  quelle  heure  soupe-t-on? 

C'Cst  bien  cher. 

Oil  sont  nos  chambres  ? 

Y  a-t-il  des  lettres  poste  re- 
stante pour  Monsieur  K .  ? 

Voici  mon  passeport. 

Le  d^jeuuer  est-u  servi  ? 

Donnez-moi  a  boire. 

Quelle  heure  est-il  ? 

Quel  temps  fait-il  P 

Comment  vous  portez-Tous  ? 

Fort  bien,  je  vous  reineme. 

Auriez-vous  une  chambre 
a  me  louer  ? 


FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND   ITALIAN.       491 


WieYielP 

Haben    Sie    niclits   Bes- 

seres  ? 
Es  ist  schon. 
Es  ist  sebr  heiss. 
Rennet  es  ? 
Es  1st  kalt. 
Lassen  Sie  eine  Droschke 

holen. 
Kutscher,  fahren  Sie  micli 

nacli  der  Eisenbalm. 
Wo    ist    die    Gepackan- 

nahme  ? 
Ich  bitte  um  zwei  Billete 

erster  Klasse  nach  X. 

Hier  sind  sie. 

Wie  viel  kosten  sie  ? 

Um  wie  viel  Uhr  ist  das 

Abendessen  fertig  ? 
Das  ist  sehr  theuer. 
Wo  sind  unsere  Ziramer  ? 

Sind  Brief©  angekommen 

fiir  Herrn  N.  ? 
Hier  ist  mein  Pass. 
Ist  das  Eriibstiick  fertig  P 
Geben  Sie  mir  zu  trinken. 
Wie  viel  Uhr  ist  es  ? 
Wie  ist  das  Wetter? 
'  Wie  befinden  Sie  sich  ? 
Sebrwohl,  iclidankelbnen. 
Haben  Sie  ein  Zammet  zu 

▼ermiethen  ? 


Quanto  ? 

Non  nc  avete  di  miglioreP 

Fa  bel  tempo. 

Fa  caldissimo. 

Piove  ? 

Fa  freddo. 

Fate  cercare  un  fiacre. 

Cocchiere,  condacetemi  alia 

strada  ferrata. 
Dov'  e  rufficio  deglieffettif 

Due     biglietti    di    prima 
classe  per  X,  se  vi  piaco 

Ecco,  signore. 

Quanto  avete  pagato  p«r 

questi  biglietti  ? 
A  clie  ora  si  cena  ? 

fi  carissimo. 

Dove  sono  le  nostre   ca 

mere? 
Vi  sono  lettere  per  il  Sigp 

nor  N.  posta  restante  P 
Ecco  il  mio  passaporto. 
h  in  tavola  fa  colazione  P 
Datemi  da  bare. 
Che  ora  e  ? 
Che  tempo  fa  P 
Come  sta  ? 

Benissimo,  la  ringrazio, 
Avrebbe  una  camera   d 

affittare  P 


TBAVELLEBS'  TBLEGBAPHIC  CODE. 


B^we  moHng  %m  of  ths  words  in  thit  Code,  it  is  estenUeU 
that  mttnding  luen  should  scUi^  thsmselves  that  the  /Hsnds 
vfith  whom  Ouy  intend  to  eorremond  have  in  their  possession 
the  same  edition  qf  the  work  asms  one  about  to  be  vsed. 

This  Code  is  intended  as  a  means  of  reducing  the  expense 
of  telegraphing.  A  single  word  means  a  whole  sentence. 
A  copj  of  the  Code  should  be  left  with  the  person  at  home 
to  whom  telegrams  would  naturally  be  sent  (whose  name  and 
address  should  be  registered  at  the  local  telegraph-office). 
The  blank  ciphers  are  for  private  phrases,  to  form  a  personal 
Code  between  two  persons,  who  may  agree  upon  certain  sen- 
tences, and  write  them  carefully  in  their  two  books.  This 
Code  has  been  made  up  expressly  for  CASSSUi's    Pockr 

GUIDIB. 

Almond Telegraph  to  ^— -. 

Almost Telegraph  as  loaii  as  possible. 

Aloes  Telegraph  your  reply. 

Aloft  Telegraph  and  keep  us  well  posted. 

Aloof  Inform  us  by  telegraph. 

Aloud Telegraph  us  what  to  da 

Air   Telegraph  if  you  do  not  understand  our  despatch. 

AJar Cannot  understand  your  telegram.    Please  repeat 

Akin  We  cannot  understand  the  -— ~  word  in  your  tele- 
gram.   Please  repeat  it 

Alaok The  word  yon  do  not  understand  is  — — . 

Alarm    Your  despatch  received. 

Agos  Answer  my  telegram  of —. 

Aff ony    :  ■  ■  Answer  immediately  by  telegraph. 

Aided. Answer  by  telegraph  at  — . 

Alter  Telegraphed  you,  bat  have  no  reply. 

Alum  Have  you  received  our  tel^ram  of -^—  P 

Amaze    Have  received  your  telegram  of  — . 

Amber If  you  wish  to  communicate  with  me  by  telegraph, 

do  so  at ,  before  — . 

Amboy  Please  advise  by  telegraph. 

Amen Get  despatch  at  telegraph  office. 

Amical  Before  despatch  received,  we  had  — — . 

Amidst Have  you  sent  us  a  despatch  to-day? 

Amity If  we  don't  telegraph  you  by  — — ,  yon  maar  oott* 

elude  — ^ 


TRAVELLEB8*  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.   493 

Ample I'  yon  don't  telemph  ns  by , we  shall 

Amplify What  is  reason  or  delay  in  reply  to  oar  telegram? 

Amuse 

Analonr. 

Anatomy.... 

Ancestor 

Anohor 

Ancient 

Andiron 

Anew. 

Angel  

Anory.. .:.... 

^■wfTnu.!  ...... 

Aniniftte 

Ankle. 


Annul 

Appeal 

Apply 

Apron 

Baby  Your  letter  of—*  is  reccivefl. 

SaoK    Your  letter  is  received. 

Saoon Send  letters  here  until  the  <— — . 

Badly Send  letters  to  —  until  the  — . 

Backstay Send  letters  care  of  <— — . 

Badffer We  write  you—-. 

Bafl^ We  wrote  yon  last  maiL 

Baff  Will  write  you  at  once. 

Bau Full  information  by  to-day's  mafl. 

Bake   Hare  sent  you  letter  by  to-day's  maiL 

Balcony    Letter  was  sent. 

Bald Answer  by  maiL 

Ballad  Ko  letter  to-day ;  telegraph  contents  if 

Balm  Have  received  no  letters  since        ^ 

Banjo Forward  no  letters  ^ter ——1. 

"       Ht  We  forwarded  letters  to on  the  — 


494        TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE. 

fianner Tour  letter  of  — —  receired  and  agreed  toL 

banquet  Your  letter  of received  and  answered. 

Baron All  matter  to  date  has  been  fonrarded. 

Baatar Have  you  any  mail  matter  on  hand  for  ns  t 

Beadle  Await  onr  letter. 

Beast  We  have  advices  which,  in  oar  opinion,  may  eanse 

yoar  retmm  to  ^— .    Where  will  a  letter  soonest 

reach  yon? 

Beauty  We  have  written  you  fully  on  the  subject 

Beckon What  is  reason  of  delay  in  replying  to  our  letter? 

Bed 

Beef 

Befog 


etide 

estow 

Btray  

»..::::::::: 

Blast  

Behead ^ 

Behold ^ 

Belay 

Bench   

Belt 

Bias 

Biped 

Birthday  ..^•« 

Bishop  

Bivalve « 

Blaoxies • 


TRAVELLERS*  TELFX>RAPHIC  CODE.       495 

Cabin We  shall  return  at  once  by  — >. 

Caboose  ....We  shall  return  at  once  by  the  — — . 

Cadet We  shall  sail  for  home  on  the . 

Cage We  sail . 

Cake  When  does sail  ? 

Calico We  think  it  best  to  delay  departure. 

Calm   We  think  it  best  to  delay  departure  until  — •.    If  no 

further  advice,  shall  leave  on  that  day  for  — ^ 

Caloric  Cannot  leave . 

Cameo    Cannot  leave  until . 

Camp Cannot  leave  ^— .    Will  sail  by  next  steamer. 

Canal Have  missed  steamer. 

Canary Have  missed  steamer ;  will  sail  by  next 

Candy When  does leave  P 

Cane    Steamer  sails  on 

Cannon Sailing  postponed  until  — — . . 

Canopy Tickets  lost ;  send  duplicates. 

Canteen    ...Arrived  all  well ;  pleasant  passage.    Tell  — . 

Canvass    ...Arrivedall  well,  but  stormy  passage.    Tell . 

Caper Arr.  all  well;  pleasant  passage.  Shall  proceed  to  -— . 

Caprice Arr.  all  well,  but  stormy  passage.  Shall  proc.  to        ^ 

Capsize Arrived  all  well ;  have  written. 

Capsule Arrived  all  well    Address  letters  to  --^*-, 

Captain Has arrived? 

Caramel    . .  .He  arrived  on  — . 
Caravan   ...He  has  not  arrived. 

Carbon fietum  at  once. 

Card ELetum  as  soon  as  possible. 

Cardinal  ...Return  at  once.    Important  matters  demand  your  prea* 

ence  here. 
Careworn.  .Things  look  blue.  Unless  strong  reason  lo  the  contrary, 

should  like  to. have  you  shorten  your  trip. 

Cargo You  need  not  return. 

Carmine  ...You  need  not  return  until  — — % 

Catnip  You  must  be  here  by  the . 

Caxton  Impossible  to  return  until —. 

Cement Arrange  for  our  return. 

Central Cannot  retuiii  unless . 

Chafe If  agreeable,  will  remain  — ♦ 

Cbair When  will  you  return? 

Cbancel    ...'Vfhen  do  yon  expect  to  be  here  ? 

Chaos We  shall  be  with  you  by  the  — — . 

Chapter  ....Secure  passage  by  this  steamer. 
Charcoal  ...We  shaU  come  by  the  train  leaving  at— ^ 

Chariot We  shall  arrive  at  this  station  bv  train  due  at  «m% 

Charity 

Charm 

Cherish • 


496        TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE. 


Cider. 


Cimeter.. 


Cipher . 
Circiiit  . 


Citadel . 


Clack. 


Coil. 


Colic  . 


Confront  ... 

IDabble Send  cable  titiisfer  for  — — ,  thrangh  — — ^ 

Dabster Send  me  new  credit  for—,  through  -^. 

Dactyl Bemit  to  me  by  telegraph  through  — — . 

Daffodil  ....Remit  by  mail :  — 


Dagger £6 

Dainty 10 

Dale  16 

Dally 20 

Damper  26 

Dance 80 

Dandy 36 

Dangung 40 

Daring 46 

Dark 60 


Darkey £66 

Dashed  60 

Daub 65 

DayUght 70 

Daytime 76 

Deacon 80 

Deadeye 86 

Deaf  90 

Debased 96 

Debatable  ...lOO 


DebiUty  ...£19i 

Debut 160 

Decamp 175 

Decay 900 

Deceit 260 

Decide 900 

Decimal 400 

Declare 600 


Decrease  ...Bemh  at  once. 

Deem We  have  remitted. 

Deface Have  yon  ibrvaided  remittance? 

Defeat  We  cannot  remit. 

Defection... We  cannot  remit  more  than  «— . 
Defence  ....We  tend  draft  by  Arat  mail. 
Defiance  ....Will  honor  draft 

Deform Will  honor  draft  to  amount  of  — — . 

Defrayed.. .Will  you  honor  my  draft  ? 

Deftly Will  you  honor  my  draft  to  amount  of — 

Delve Please  prepay  passage  per  — — . 

Demerit  ....Please  prepay  passage,  and  tel^raph  name  of  ateamer. 
Democrat. .  Have  prepaid  your  passage  per ,  tailing  on  — — ^ 


TKAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.       497 

Demon.  Are  without  iunds ;  send  money  to  — •»• 

Dentist 

IHince - 

Damask  ...... 

Dastard - 

Daughter  ..* 

Debris 

Destiny 

Deck 

Denizen 

Denote 

Dense 

Depose 

Depress 

Derance .... 

Device 

Dilate 

Disclose  ....- 

Distress  .... 

Divan 

Dock 

Dome 

Dowdy 

Drab 

Drama 

Drill 

Dress 

Drum 

.Basle In  eonseqfcence  of  mness  of  — »,  we  are  detained  bei^ 

Send  letters  here  until  the . 

Earth -^—  is  better,  and  we  hope  to  leave  on  the  — * 

*»»■* —  i«  seriously  ill  j  will  advise  you  again. 


498    TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE. 

libony  —  »■  «ck,  but;  not  dangerously. 

Scho i*  improving;  slowly. 

Edible —  «  very  much  better ;  no  need  of  ytmr  retondif . 

Editor »  BO  better.    Would  come  bomo  at  once. 

Educate  ...• ia  in  *  critical  condition. 

Efface  »  rapidly  sinking. 

Effort — -  died  last  night 

Eeress —  died  yesterday. 

EUpse  died  to-day. 

Elaborate  •  Please  exoress  our  sympathy. 

Eleotrio We  are  all  well,  and  there  is  no  need  of  your  letorning. 

Elevate Hope  all  are  well. 

Encbant  ...All  are  well. 

Elixir 

Elongate... 

Elope 

Eluded 

Empire 

Emulate  ... 

Endow 

Engrine 

Gadfly Stay  as  long  as  you  like.    Everything  is  as  it  should  be, 

and  all  are  well. 

Gaiter  Everything  sound,  and  doing  well. 

Galaxy We  propose  extending  tour. 

Gallant We  propose  extending  tour  to  — .    If  all  right,  telot 

graph. 

Game When  will  you  be  in ? 

Garden We  expect  to  reach bv  — . 

Garrison  . . .  WUl  meet  you  at . 

Gastric We  wish  to  know  Mhere  you  can  be  met  between  no« 

and . 

Gazette Do  as  you  think  best. 

Gender Can  you  arrange? 

Genial We  can  arrange. 

Geyser We  cannot  arrange. 

Ghost Everything  satistactorily  arranged. 


TRAVELLERS'  TELEGRAPHIC  CODE.   499 

Gimlet We  think  it  adyiaable  to . 

Qinarer We  think  well  of 

Qixuiood  ...We  do  not  think  well  of——. 
Q-ladden  ...Act  accordiner  to  vour  own  judgment. 
G-lancin^;  ...How  is  busineasr 

G-lass  Business  is  good.    Everything  all  right. 

Q-leam  Anything  the  matter?  Ko  word  from  you  by  mail  or  win; 

G-lide  Send  us  word  at  once. 

G-limmer  ...Nothing  the  matter;  all  well    Have  written. 

G-liBten Bo  nothing  until  you  hear  from  me. 

Glory Where  is  —  ? 

Glue  Do  you  know  address  of  — —  f 

Goblin ......  Address  of  party  is . 

Goddess  r... Address  cannot  be  given. 
Gondola  ....When  did  you  send  —  f 
Goodness  ..Have  you  done  so  ? 
Gotliani  ....Have  you  done  anything  ? 

Gothic .Keep  thi^  confidential. 

Gouge Z 


Gout 

Govern 

Gowi^ 

Grab 

Grade 

Gradual .... 

Grammar.. 

Greedy 

Grief 

Grocer 

Growl  

Grain 

Gruff 

Guard 

Guano 

Guide 


INDEX. 


Abboteford,  94. 
AbmlMD}  83. 
Abexcele,  81. 
Abo.  465. 
Adeisbag,  258. 
^tmL  Moimt,  SS6. 
AgliMloe,& 
Anam,  358. 
Abrweiler,  325. 
Ailm  Cnig,  ^. 
Airolo,28§. 
Aix-larCh^)eUe»   321, 

203. 
Aix-lM-Bains,  440. 
Alatri,  371. 
Mbacete,  414. 
Albano,  866. 
Aletsandria,  305. 
Alfort,  196. 
AUeante,  414. 
AUowav,  58. 
Alpnacn,  284. 
Althorp  Park,  125. 
Altoi 


Amble8ide»45,44. 
Amboise,  198. 
Ambras,  265. 


Amiens,  166. 
Amsteg,  282. 
Amsterdam,  215. 
Anagni,  371. 
Anagno,  Lake,  377. 
Ancona,  828. 
Andermatt,  283. 
Andemach,  226. 
^nglesea,  ^. 


Angooltme,  439. 
Annan  I  56. 
Aonesley,  108. 
Antemni^  366. 
Antibes,899. 
Antwerp.  211. 
Aosta,  295. 
Apennines,  328. 
Appian  Way,  363. 
Aqua  Acetosa,  365. 
Aquino,  371. 
Ara]gaez,426. 
Arbroath,  83. 
Arcachon,  439. 
Ardchattan,  74. 
Ardrishaiff,  79. 
Arenfels,  225. 
Arezzo,3S8. 
Arieda,  367. 
Aries,  401. 
Amhem,  217- 
Arona,  299,  298. 
Arras,  166. 
Ashton,  104. 
Asniferes,  165. 
Assist,  339. 
Assmannsbansen,  232. 
Athlone,  22. 
Aabnm,  22. 
Angsbnrg,  266. 
Avemus,  Lake,  378. 
Avignon,  402. 
Avoca,  Vale  of,  20. 
Awe,  Loch,  78. 
Ayr,  68. 

BachakacHj  231. 
Badi^06.434 
Baden-Baden,  272. 
Baggage,  xii. 
Baia,m 


BaiTeittb,370L 
Balearic  Istea,  409L 
BaUater,84. 
Balmoral,  84. 
Balqnhidder,  7S. 
Bambeig,  S70i 
Banavie^TS. 
Bangor.  2t^  36. 
BannocKburn.  81. 
Barbizon,  197. 
Barcelona,  406. 
Basle,  274. 
Bassenthwaite,  53. 
Bath,  157. 
BatUe  Abbey,  \5&. 
Bayonne,433w 
Baziasch,  256. 
Bedford,  125. 
Belcaro,  339. 
Belfast,  35. 
Belginm,  901. 
Belgrade,  356. 
Be%gio,  300. 
Bellinzona,  279. 
Belvoir  Castle,  107. 
Ben  Ledi,  72,  f  3. 
Ben  Lomond,  70. 
Ben  Venue,  71,  72. 
Bergamo,  307. 
Bergen,  448. 
Berfin,  241. 

Bernardino  Pass.  379. 
Berne,  387. 

Bernese  Oberland-SdOi 
Bemina  Pass,  280. 
Besangon,  404w 
Beverley,  108. 
Biarritz,  48S. 
Bienne,  391. 
Bingen,  SSI. 


INDEX. 


501 


n»  111,  134. 
Black  fbre8t,872,  378. 
Bhumey  Caatle,  4. 
Blois,  197. 
Blue  Grotto,  S8S. 
Boloena,  323. 
Bonn,  223. 
Boppard,  830. 
Bordeaux,  497. 
Bordighera,  896. 
Borromean  Isles,  299. 
Boston,  106. 
BothweU,  68. 
Bonnval,  194. 
Boulogne,  161. 
Bowness,  46. 


Bracciano,  370. 
Bradford,  108. 
Braemar,  84. 
Bray,  90. 
Bremen,  S89. 
Brenner  Pass,  266. 
Brescia,  807,  805. 
Brest,  168. 
Brieg,  396. 
Bnenz,  381 
Brighton,  165. 
Brindisi,S38. 
Bristol,  158. 
Britannia  Bridge,  37. 
Broek,317. 
Brack,  368. 
Brages,  307. 
Briinig  Pass,  284. 
Branswick,  388. 
Brussels,  204. 
Bucharest,  357. 
Bulgaria,  367. 
Burgos,  433. 
Bums,  Land  of,  56. 
Bute,  79. 
Bttttermere,  53. 
Cadsnabbia,  SOI. 
Cadiz,  431. 
Caen,  167. 
Caemarron,  39. 
Calais,  161. 
Caledonian  Canal,  76. 
Callander,  78. 


Camaldoli,  837. 
Cambridge,  138. 
Campagna,  The,  364. 
Cannes,  398. 
Cannstadt,  367. 
Canossa,  335. 
CanterbuTT,  160. 
Capellen,  239. 
Capri,  383. 
Capua,  371. 
Cardiff,  168. 
Cardross,  67,  69. 
Carlisle,  56. 
Carlsbad,  249. 
Carlsruhe,  373. 
Carrara,  392. 
Caserta,  381. 
Cashel.  14. 
Caasel,  338. 
Cassino,  371. 
Castel,  335. 
Castellamare,  381. 
Castel  Gandolfo,  367. 
Catania,  386. 
Caub,  331. 
Cauterets,  437. 
Cawdor  Castle,  78. 
Certoea,  La,  304,  337. 
Cesena,  337. 
Cette,  406. 
Chatons,  300. 
Chambord,  198. 
Chamounix,  293. 
ChantiUy,  195. 
Charleroi,  203. 
Charlottenburg,  245. 
Chartres,  168. 
Gh&teau  Thierry,  199. 
Chatham,  160. 
Chatillon,  197. 
Chatswoi-th,  109. 
Ckauniont,  198. 
Chaudfontaine,  203. 
Chenonceaux,  198. 
Cherbouiv,  167. 
Chester,  33. 
Chi&venna,  279. 
Chiemsee,  261. 
ChiUon,  291. 
Chioggia,  320. 


Chiswiek,  154. 
Christians,  445. 
Civitk  Yecrhia,  389. 
Clarens,  3^1. 
Cloyne,  5. 
Cobience,  237. 
Coburg,  240. 
Coimbra,  436. 
Coirc,  878. 
Colchester,  154. 
Col  de  Balme,  292. 
Coleraine,  34. 
Colico,  301,  379. 
Cologne,  318. 
Como,  Lake,  300. 
Compifegne,  196. 
Coniston  Lake,  46. 
Connemara,  23. 
Constance,  275. 
Consuls,  xviii. 
Conway,  29. 
Copenhagen,  441» 
Coppet.  290. 
Cora  Linn,  68. 
Cordova,  415. 
Cork,  3. 

Cornice  Boad,  395* 
Correggio,  326. 
Cortona,  338. 
Coventry,  112. 
Cracow,  257. 
Cremona,  310,  305. 
Cronstadt,  456. 
Culloden,  78. 
Cumae,  378. 
Dabmstadt,  272. 
Delft,  2ia 
Denmark,  441. 
Derby,  108. 
Derbyshire,   Peak   o^ 

Derwentwater,  53. 
Dieppe,  161, 
Dyon,  198. 
Dinan,  168. 
Dissentis,  279. 
Domo  d'  Qssola,  29&. 
Douai,  20i. 
Dover,  161. 
Drachenfels.SSS. 


602 


INDEX. 


Dresden,  246. 
Progheda,  iO. 
Drontheim,  447- 
Dryburgh  Abbey,  94. 
Dttblin,  14. 
Dalwicli,  163. 
Dambarton,  66. 
Dumfries,  56. 
Duablane,  81. 
Dundee,  83. 
Dunkeld,  82. 
Dunottar  Castle,  83. 
Durham,  95. 
Dnsseldorf,  218. 
Eastboukne,  155. 
Eaton  HaU,  35. 
Eaux-Bonnes,  437. 
Eanx-Chaudes,  487. 
Ecclefeehan.  56. 
Eddystone  Light,  159. 
Edenhall,  64. 
Edinburgh,  85. 
Ehrenbreitstein,  338. 
Ehrenfels,  232. 
Eisenach,  239. 
ELsinore,  444. 
Elstow,  125. 
Eltville,  234. 
Ely,  123. 

Emmerich,  217,  218. 
Ems,  228. 
Engadine,  279. 
Enghien,  195. 
England,  32. 
Erftirt,  240. 
Ermenonville,  19C 
Escurial,  429. 
Esthwaite,  44. 
Eton,  151. 
Etretat,  162. 
Evora,  436. 
Evrcttx,  167. 
E-eter,  159. 
Fabnza,  327* 
Faro,  436. 
F6camp,  162. 
Ferentino,  871. 
Femey,  289. 
^errara,  321. 
Bsole,  837. 


Florence,  329. 
Fliielen,  282. 
Folkestone,  160. 
Foligno,  339. 
Fontaineblean,  196. 
Forli,  327. 
Fort  Augustus,  77- 
Fountains  Abbey,  97- 
France,  Northern,  161. 
France,  Southern,  397. 
Frankfort,  236. 
Frascati,  368. 
Freiburg,  273,  288. 
Fr6jus,  899. 
Frosinone,  871* 
Frutigen,  287. . 
Fulda,  239. 
Furca  Pass,  283. 
IHirness  Abbey,  42. 
Fiirstenberg,  232. 
Galwat,  23. 
Garda,  Lake   of,  301, 

308 
Gastein,  2e0. 
Gemmi  Pass,  287. 
Geneva,  289. 
Genoa,  893. 
Genzano,  367- 
Germany,  218. 
Gerona,  406. 
Ghent,  209. 
Giants'  Causeway,  24. 
Gibraltar,  420. 
Giessbach,285. 
Girgenti,  389. 
Giurgevo,  257. 
Glamis  Castle,  83. 
Glasgow,  60. 
Glastonbury,  153. 
Glen  Fruin,  67. 
Gorner  Grat,  295. 
Gotha,  240. 
Gothenbm-o;,  445. 
Granada,  417. 
Granville,  167. 
Grasmere,  50. 
Gratz,  25& 
Greenock,  87,  80. 
Greenwich,  153. 
Grimsel  Puss,  288. 


Grinddwald,  235. 
Qrotta  Ferrata,  36a. 
Haakubm,  21S. 
Haeue-The,  !&13. 

Halie.  241. 
Hamburg,  239,  441. 
Hamilton,  67- 
Hanuuerfest,  448. 
Hammerstein,  236. 
Hampstead.  153. 
Hampton  Court,  152. 
Hanover,  238. 
Harrogate,  98. 
Harrow,  154. 
Hastings,  155. 
Havre,  162. 
Haworth,  103. 
Heidelberg,  270. 
Helensburgh,  67. 
HelveUyn,  51. 
Herculaneum,  o79. 
Highgate,  153. 
HighUmds,      Scottish, 

Holland,  212. 
Holyhead,  27. 
Hombnrg,  237. 
Hotels,  XX. 
Hull,  102. 
Hyftres,  399. 
Innsbsuck,  264. 
Interlaken,  285. 
Inverary,  70. 
Inverness,  78. 
Inversnaid,  71,  69. 
lona,  76. 
Ireland,  1,  26. 
Iron  Gates,  257. 
Irongray,  57. 
Irun,  4.1ii. 
Ischia,  382. 
Ischl,  260. 
Iseo,  301. 
Isola  Bella,  299. 
Italy,  297. 
Jekez,  4*22. 
Johannisberg,  233. 
Julier  Pass,  279. 
Jungfrau,  286, 


INDEX. 


6oa 


Kandebsteg,  S87. 
Kasan  Defile,  257. 
Katrine,  Loch,  71. 
KelheiK,  269. 
Kenawortii,  114. 
Keswick,  62,  58. 
Kew,  162. 
Kidderminster.  111. 
Killamey,  6, 10. 
Kingatowo,  21. 
Komom,  256. 
KOnigsstuhl,  280,  271. 
K6ni^winter,  223. 
Konigatein,  248. 
Krenznach,  2S3. 
Laach,  226. 
Laeken,  5206. 
Lahueck,  280. 
Laibach,  268. 
Lanark,  68. 
Lansanne,  288. 199. 
Leamington,  121. 
Lccco,  301. 
Leeds,  102. 
Leghorn,  889. 
LeiDfltc,  240. 
Leith,  91. 
Lemberg,  257. 
Lerida,  411. 
L^rins,  Isles  of,  399. 
Letter  of  Credit,  ix. 
Leak,  Baths  of,  287, 

296. 
Leyden,  215. 
Lifcgc,  202. 
Lille,  202. 
Limerick,  13. 
Lincoln,  105. 
LinkOping,  444. 
Linlithgow,  82. 
Linz,  225,  259. 
Lisbon,  434. 
Lisieux,  167. 
Liverpool,  36,  viii. 
Llandaff,  158. 
Locarno,  299. 
%odore,52. 
Iiomoiia,  Loch,  69. 
London,  128. 
Locfkmderry,  26. 


Lorch,  232. 
Louvain,  207. 
Lncca,  892. 
Lnceme,  280. 
Lugano,  300,  279. 
Lamo,  299. 
Lund,  444. 
Larlei,231. 
Luxembourg,  204. 
Lvons,  408. 
Macon,  199. 
Madrid,  426. 
Magdeburg,  2S8. 
Maggiore,Lake,  298. 
Mi^rarca,  409. 
Malaga,  419. 
Malamocco,  320. 
Malmaison,  194. 
Malmd,  444. 
Manchester,  104. 
Mannheim.  271. 
Mantes,  166. 
Mantua,  310. 
Marburg,  338. 
Margate,  154. 
Maruio,  868. 
Marksburg,  230. 
Marly,  196. 
Marseilles,  399, 297. 
Martigny,  292. 
Matterhom,  296. 
Mauchline,  57. 
Mayence.  234. 
Maynooth,  22. 
Meaux,  199. 
Mechlin,  210. 
Meiringen,  284. 
Melrose.  93. 
Menageio,  300. 
Menai  Bridge,  28. 
Mentone,  8^. 
Mer  de  Glace,  293. 
Messina,  384. 
Metz,  233. 
Meudon,  197. 
Milan,  302. 
Minorca,  409. 
Miramar,  269. 
Modena,  324,  310. 
Monaco,  387. 


Money,  xv. 
Monreale,  388. 
Mods,  201. 
Monserrat,  408. 
Mont  Blanc,  293. 
Monte  Cenis,  297. 
Monte  Bosa,  295. 
Montgomerie,  68. 
Montmorency,  196. 
Montpellier,  405. 
Montrose,  83. 
Morat,  Lake,  291. 
Moscow,  460. 
Moselle  Biver,  228. 
Mouse  Tower,  232. 
Mt.  St.  Michel,  167. 
Munich,  261,  310,  249i 
Murano,  320. 
Miirren,  286. 
Naien,  78. 
Namur,  202. 
Nancy,  200. 
Naples,  870. 
Narbonne,  406. 
Nemi,  Lake,  367. 
Neuch4tel,  291. 
Neuwied,  226. 
Newark.  107. 
Newcastle,  95. 
Newmarket,  124. 
Nice,  398. 
Niederwald,  238. 
Niederwerth,  227- 
Nnni-Novgorod,  462L 
Nlmea,  401. 
Nisiia,  377. 
Nonnenwerth,  224. 
Northampton,  125. 
Norway,  446. 
Nottingham,  107. 
Novara,  806. 
Nuremberg,  267. 
Oban,  74, 78. 
Ober-Ammerrau,  26i, 
Oberwesel,  231. 
Ocean  Voyage,  viL 
Odessa,  462. 
Oporto,  486. 
Orange,  403. 
Orleans,  197. 


504 


INDEX. 


Orta,  SOI. 
Orvieto,  388 
Ostend,  207- 
Ofltia,  870. 
Otranto,  828. 
Oxford,  135. 
Padua,  311. 
Peestum,  883. 
Piilenno,  887- 
Palestrina,  369. 
Palma,409. 
Parii,  168 
Parma,  324. 
Pasaports,  ix. 
Pau.  486. 
Pavk^  305. 
Perpignan.  406. 
Perth,  82. 
Perugia,  338. 
Peaaro,  327. 
Peschiera,  301,  308. 
Peath,  255. 

Peterborough,  121, 106. 
Pfalz,  231. 
Piacenza,  310,  305. 
Pierrefonds,  196. 
Pillnitz,  247. 
Pisa,  390. 
Pistoja,  328. 
Plymouth,  159. 
Poitiers,  440. 
Pompeii,  879. 
Pontresina,  280. 
Port  Mahon,  409. 
Portsmouth,  156. 
Portugal.  434.       • 
Posilippo,  876. 
Potsdam.  245. 
Porruoli,  877. 
Prague,  248. 
Preaburg,  2S5. 
Procida,  382,  383. 

QUBEIfSTOWN,  2. 

Raoatz,  277. 
Railways,  xri. 
Kamsgate.  154 . 
Rappersdiwyl,  277. 
Katisbon,  269. 
Ravello.  383. 
pyemia,  325.  | 


Reggio,  335,  384. 
Remagen.  325. 
Renfrew,  66. 
Rheims,  199. 
Rheineck,  226. 
Rheinfels  230. 
Rheinstein,  232. 
Rhense,  230. 
Rhine,  222. 
Rhone  Glacier,  283. 
Richmond,  152. 
Righi,  The,  281. 
Rimini,  827. 
Ripon,  97. 
Riva,  802. 
Rochester,  159. 
Rolaudseck,  224. 
Rome,  340. 
Roslin,  92. 
Rothesay,  79. 
Rotterdam,  212. 
Roubaix,  202. 
Rouen.  163. 
Roveredo,  265,  310. 
Bovigo,  321. 
Rowardennan,  69. 
Riidesheim,  233. 
Rueil,  194. 
Rugby,  121. 
Russia,  455. 
Rustchuck,  257. 
Rydal,  49. 
Ryde,  157. 
Saguntum,  412. 
St.  Albans.  154. 
SU  Andrews,  83. 
St.  Bernard  Pass.  294. 
St.  Cloud,  193. 
St.  Denis,  195. 
St.  Germain,  194. 
St.  Goar,  230. 
St.  Gothard  Pass.  280. 

279. 
St.  Malo,168. 
St.  Maurice,  292. 
St.  Moritz,  280. 
St.  Petersburg,  456. 
St.  Quentin,  201. 
St.  Th^odule  Pass,  395. 
Salerno,  383. 


Salisbury,  1S6. 
Salzburg,  259. 
Salzkammergut.  260. 
San  Marino,  327. 
San  Remo,  395. 
San  Sebastian,  43S. 
Santarem,  434. 
Saragoasa,  410. 
Sarona,  395. 
Saxon   Switzerland. 

247. 
Saxon-les-Baina,  295. 
Sceaux,  197. 
Schaffhansen,  27&. 
Scheveningen.  214. 
Schiedam.lilS. 
Schdnbrunn,  254. 
Scotland,  56.. 
Sebastopol,  462. 
Sedan.  200. 
Semmering  Past,  258| 

298. 
Servia,  256. 
Seville,  422, 
Sevres,  194. 
Sheffield.  106. 
Sicily,  884. 
Siena,  839. 

Simplon  Pass.  395. 294, 
Sion,  295. 
Solfatara,  377. 
Solferlno,  806. 
Sorrento,  881. 
Southampton,  156. 
Spa.  203. 
Spam,  405. 
Spezia,  La,  393,  S2S. 
Spires,  971. 
Splugen  Pass,  277* 
Staffa,  75. 
Stahleck,  281. 
SUubbach,  386. 
Steamships,  x. 
Stirling,  80. 
Stockholm,  449. 
Stolzenfels,  829. 
Strasbourg,  872,  20O. 
Stratford-on-Avon,  118. 
Stuttgart,  366. 
Subiaco,  369. 


INDEX. 


60ft 


ew«d«ii.  449. 
SwiCzerUnd,  874. 
Srnoase,  886. 
Taouiina,  386. 
Tanato,  S88. 
Tansoon,  402. 
Tarragona,  412. 
TenUtx,  S49. 
Temi,  8S9. 

Thrasymene  Lake,  838. 
Throndliieiii,  447. 
Tliun,  Lak6of,286. 
Tiroli»)M». 
Toledo,  430. 
Torcelb,  321. 
Toniimy,169. 
ToitOM,  412. 
Toa]oii,899. 
Tooloiue.  439. 
Tours,  198. 
Trent,  265,  310. 
Treves,  229. 
TrouviUe,162. 
Trieste,  321, 268. 
Tz^Msacbs,  The,  71. 


Tunbri(tee  Wells,  155. 
Turin,  305. 
Tuaculum,  368. 
Tyrol,  264. 

ULLSWATES,  48. 

Ulm.  266. 
Upsala,  454. 
Urbino,  828. 
Utrecht,  217. 
Yalenck,  403; 
Valencia,  412. 
Valenciennes,  201. 
Valladolid,  432. 
Vallombrosa,  837. 
Vanelnsa,  403. 
Vcllctri.  371. 
Venice,  313,  307. 
Verona,  808,  307 
Versailles,  191. 
Vesuvius,  379. 
Vevay,  291. 
Via  Mala,  278. 
Vicenza,  311. 
Vichy,  440. 
Vienna,  250. 


Vienne,  408. 
Viacennes,  181. 
Wales.  37. 
Walhalia,  The,  869. 
WaUenstadt,  Lake.  277. 
Wartburg,  239. 
Warwick,  116. 
Waterloo,  806. 
Weimar,  240. 
Wells,  168. 
Wiesbaden,  237, 234. 
Wight,  Isle  of,  157. 
Wifdbad6astetn,260. 
Wilhelmsh5he,  238. 
Winchester,  156. 
Windermere,  44, 45. 
Windsor,  151. 
Worcester,  112. 
Worms,  271. 
Wiirzburg,  270. 
Yoiuc,  98. 
Yvcrdon,  291. 
Zaandam,  217. 
Zermatt,  295. 
Zurich,  276,  266. 


MEMORANDA. 


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MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


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MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA. 


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The  Land  of  Temples. 
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10s.  6d. 

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rland.  and   other   Sermons 

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•  Georare  for  Bncland 
preaohed  to  Children 
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_.  Cassttl  A*  Company's  Religious  fVorks, 

BIBIJi    BIOGBAFHIB8. 

Illustrated,    is.  6d.  each. 

Tlie  atoT^V  fi  J  ■  51.  piu  By  the  Rev.  GEORGE  BAINTON. 

The  Bioi-y  of  MoiiQS  and  JoBktw.     By  the  Rev.  J. 

Th*  atoTV  of  th  fr  Judges.    By  the  Rev.  J.  WYCLIFFE 

Ch.!X,K,  M-A. 
Th&  etoTY  Df  Samuel  and  Saul.    By  the  Rev.  D.  C 

T(WEV.  MA. 
TK^  Storv  of  David.    By  the  Rer.  J.  Wild. 
Crhis  etory  of  Jeituri.     In  verse.    Leading  Incit^ents  ia 
this  Grejt  Dk]»grr^phy.    By  J.  R.  Macduff,  D.D. 
'    JiZXPS  TO  BBLIBF. 
A  Series  of  Helpful  Miinuals  on  the  Relif^ous  Difficulties 
of  the  Day.  Edited  by  the  Rev.  T.  TEIGNMOUTH  SHORE, 
M.  A.,  Canon  of  Worcester.    Price  is.  each. 

The  Atonement.  By  William  Connor  Mageb. 

D.D..  late  Archbishop  of  York. 
Creation.     By   Harvey  Goodwin,  D.D.,  late 

Lord  Bishop  of  Carlisle. 
The  Divinity  of  our  Lord.      By  the  Lord 

Bishop  of  Uerry. 
Prayer.   By  the  Rev.  Canon  Shore. 
Miraoles.    By  the  Rev.  Brownlow  Maitland. 
■KEART  chords,"  Cr.-.ili.T.;.l,-f,:..--.-,Ti.:ei!i.cach. 
Ky  Work  for  Ood.    nv-iii:.fv.|    i  ..,  if-wh.l. 
My  O  bj  p«>t  J  n  L  If e,    Bv  1^^;  r<  i  l  I  ■  a  r-;  r  a  r  .  D.  D. 
My  Body,    tiy  ilic  Rev.  I'^t^^.  \'k .  G.  ii]J.[JvXH,  D.D. 
Hy  GrdwtH  m  Hi  vine  lATa.    liy  the  Ivar.  lYq- 

br/:ri.lT,ry  RP^VMUriS^  M.A. 
My  EmotiDual  Iilffl,    liy  tlio  Rtv.  C.  CilJinWicjC 
My  AeplratlgnH.   fly  the  Rev.  G^  Matheson,  D,D, 
My  Aid*  to  tha  J)ivi«»  XtXfQ.    Uy  iJcan  aGVLHn 
My  Bible.  L3>  tfic  Rifltit  Rev,  W.  fioviJ  CAKrEIfTER 
My  ScmiL     liy  ttie  Rev.  P,  Ji.  I\3WtIl,  M-A 
My  Hereafltcr.    fly  1  Jean  BitKERSTHTiin 
My  Walk  with  O'od.    Wy  tJean  MoNrriOMr.RVi 
My  Sourcea  of  Str^nirUl.      Wy  Eho  Re*,   li.  E. 

ji-N'Kr.'^y,  M,.\. 

My  Father^  By  iKe  Right  Rer,  AsifTON  OJtHTffDBN, 

My  Comfort  ia  Sorrow.     By  HUCU  MACillLLAH. 

_  r>.  a  H  L  L,  D. .  F.  R,  5.  li,.  A«,    CloE)i,  li 

Tlie  Bibia  Stud^m  in  tluj  Britisb  Mucenm.    Py 

the  Rev,  J.  G.    KlTCmp;^    M  A,,  Hon^  Cur^Eiar  cjf  the 

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llie  RifcTlit  Rev.  J,  C  KVLTv,  I.onl  tliUicp  of  LivorimaL, 
6^1- 


Cassett  A>  Ccn^at^s  PubtieoHpnt, 


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Modem  Europe,  A  History  oC    By  C  A.  Fvppb, 

M.A.    Cheap  Edition,  in  One  Vol.,  los  6d.     Library 

Edition.    Illustrated.    In  Three  Vols..  7s.  6d.  each. 
Tlniversal  History,  Cassell's  Illustrated.     Four 

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Protestantism,  The  History  oil     By  the  Rev.  J.  A. 

WVLIE,  LL.D.    600  Illustrations.    Three  Vols.    sts. 
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PiHHon,  Xeffifd  ir*t!(  Eu/ari'^d,  3s.  &:1+ 
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it  H  R  iTA  cn.    j  [^lEt  r^r  e^,    fy. 
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SL'nn.     1 1] ijfitml erl.     CA^ii/*  /iciiiii^t.     ai. 
GhbscU'b  Pciriutar  Ocok^ry.     IHi^^lrxited.     es. 
GAsaeU^fl  ShUlitl,^  Ocak^ry.    it^yA  TA^ttJaiid.     K. 
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l^LORENCt  StaC]'OCiM-\     li. 

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FLOREMC*'  S[  AC  POOLE,      H. 

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Ksndfaoek  of  NurBtn^,  for  Hom^  and  HotsitsL 

By  C.J H  WOOD.     TfnfA  I':d^i>m,     us.  fid. 

L>*Sfttf  »  t-jMff/*i*y .  limiftd:  Leti^m,  Pmrit 
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A  Selection  from 

CASSELUS  EDUCATIONAL 
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Casscll's  "Belle  Sauvage"  Readers.  Nin« 
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Cassell's  "  Modem  School "  Literary  Readers. 
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Cassell's  "  Readable  "  Readers.  Eight  Books, 
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CasMll's  "  Coloured »'  Infant  Readers.  Three 
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Casscll's  "Shakespeare"  Readers,  Nine 
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Cassell's  Poetry  Books.  Twelve  Books,  price 
id.  each ;  complete  in  One  VoL,  is.  6d. 
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W MIXING, 

Cassell's  "Graduated  "Copy  Books.  Eighteen 
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.     Cassell's    "Modern    School"    Copy    Books 
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Cass-ilVs  Educat  onal  Publka'ions. 


HISTOJiY, 

"  Things  New  and  Old " :  or,   Stories  from 
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FoRSTER,  M.P.     Seven  Books,  from  9d. 

to  zs.  8d.    Illustrated. 
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IsA    Craig-Kkox.      Twelfth   Edition. 

xs.  6d.    Ilhistrated. 

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Casseli's  New  Ge(M^phical  Readers.  Seven 
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'0 


THE  ART 

of  TRAVEL 

in  Scribner's  Magazine 

for   1897 
March— "On  Land" 

Lewis  Morris  Iddings 

April-"  On  Sea  " 

Lewis  Morris  Iddings 

To  be  followed  by 

"Travelers  One  Meets  " 

Richard  Harding  Davis 

Something  to  interest  every- 
body every  ipaonth 

25  Cents  a  Number,   $3.00  a  Year 

Chas.  Scribner's  Sons 

New  York,  U.  S.  A; 


Horsford^s  Acid  Phosphate 

This  preparation  has  proved  to  be 
of  extraordinary  value  in  the  preven- 
tion and  aUeviation  of  many  cases  of 
seasickness.  It  should  be  taken  reg- 
ularly for  several  days  previous  to 
embarking,  and  during  the  voyage.^ 

It  makes  a  delightful  and  refresh- 
ing drink. 

Dr.  J.  Fourness  Brice»  of  the  White 
Star  S.  S.  GirmaniCy  says  : . 


"  I  have  prescribed  it  in  my  practice  among  the 
passengers  traveling  to  and  from  Europe,  and  the 
result  has  satisfied  me  that,  if  taken  in  time,  it  will 
in  a  great  many  cases  prevent  seasickness.'* 


Descriptive  pamphlet  free  on  application  to 

Rumford  Chemical  Works*  Providence,  R.  h 
For  sale  bv  all  Drucrcrists. 


This  book  should  be  returned  to 
the  Library  on  or  before  the  last  date 
stamped  below. 

A  fine  is  incurred  by  retaining  it 
beyond  the  specified  time. 

Please  return  promptly. 


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