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Castink SiXTY Years Ago
H Ibistovical Hbbress
Delivered in Connection with Old Home Week ine, Maine,
Sunday Evening, August 12, '
Rev. GEORGE MOULTON ADAMS, D.D.
BOSTON
PRESS OF SAMUEL bSHER
171 Devonshire Street
1900
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THE NEW YORK
PUBLIC LIBRARY
ASTOM.iUEItKKK MtD
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OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
The Home Week Association for the town of Castine, Me.,
was organized in June, 1900, by the appointment of the
following-named officers : Noah Brooks, President ; R. B,
Wardwell, First Vice-President, and E. C. Bowden, Second
Vice-President ; Rowland B. Brown, Treasurer ; Charles H.
Hooper, Secretary ; Mrs. George W. Warren, Mrs. C. F.
Jones, and Miss Helen Norton, Executive Committee. These
appointments were made by the Chairman of the Board of
Selectmen and the Master of the local Grange, under the
authority of the State Home Week Association.
Adopting the custom generally accepted throughout the
state, the local association selected the week of August 6-12
to be observed as Old Home Week, the tenth day of the
month being specially designated as the day for a more for-
mal celebration.
A Harbor Carnival was held on the evening of Tuesday,
the seventh, when a considerable fleet of canoes and boats,
profusely decorated with Chinese lanterns, made the circuit of
the harbor and went through a series of aquatic evolutions.
The Lawrence Cornet Band discoursed sweet music from a
float moored in the harbor while this was being done.
The morning of the tenth was ushered in by the custom-
ary bell-ringing and salutes, and at ten o'clock in the forenoon
there was a parade of vehicles of every description, most of
them adorned with bunting, evergreens, and flowers, the pro-
cession forming one of the most pleasing features of the
celebration. In the afternoon, the United States Ship Dol-
pJiin having arrived, the officers of the vessel were given a
drive through the village and vicinity. Later, a yacht race
took place in the harbor, and a baseball game (between the
Bucksports and the local nine) was played at Fort George.
In the evening, the Common was brilliantly and tastefully
4 OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
decorated with Chinese lanterns, the band played during the
evening, and a reception was held at a pavilion built on the
upper end of the Common.
At nine o'clock, a large company assembled in the Town
Hall, among them being a goodly number of natives of Castine
whose homes are now in other parts of the world, and who
had responded to the invitations sent out by the association.
An address of welcome was made to these by the presiding
officer of the association. Vocal solos were given by Miss
Isabel Wales, assisted by Miss Maybelle Wood, pianist, and
glees were sung by a quartette composed of Messrs. Warren
C. Philbrook, of Waterville, and William A. Walker, William
G. Sargent, and Dr. E. E. Philbrook, of Castine.
On behalf of residents of Castine who were not born in
the town, Mr. George W. Warren made a pleasing address,
and Judge Warren C. Philbrook spoke for former residents of
the town whose homes were now in other parts of the country.
At the conclusion of these exercises, the entire company rose
and sung " Auld Lang Syne." The evening was concluded
by an informal dance, which was participated in by all who
chose to remain. The whole celebration passed off without
serious delay or hitch, and was very generally enjoyed.
On the evening of Sunday, August 12, a union service
was held in the Congregational church, when a discourse,
appropriate to the occasion, was delivered by the Rev. Dr.
George M. Adams, a son of Castine, now residing in Auburn-
dale, Mass. The address is printed in the following pages
of this pamphlet.
HISTORICAL ADDRESS
The thought of the "Old Home" is something to touch
us on the tenderest side, and is fitted to join itself with our
purest and best emotions. The home of our childhood, the
scenes of our earliest experiences, the place associated with
the dear ones who guided our infant feet on the first steps of
this perilous journey of life, — this must ever be precious to
us, and our relations to it must be of value to our spiritual
life. The house of God is no unfit place in which to recall
the memory of youthful years ; the Lord's Day is a good time
to speak of fathers and mothers who taught us sacred lessons
of duty and of righteousness ; all that is sweet in the memo-
ries of household affection may well ally itself with the wor-
ship of our Father in heaven.
Let me ask your attention to some reminiscences of Cas-
tine and its people i?i the last sixty years.
The Castine that I knew best was the Castine of about
1840, a smaller village than the present. Court Street ran
only from Dresser's Lane on the south to thirty rods beyond
the foot of Windmill Hill on the north. Perkins Street also
terminated near the foot of Dresser's Lane. There was no
Broadway, no Pleasant Street above the rope-walk, and High
Street extended towards the lighthouse only as far as where
it now meets Broadway. There were neither streets nor
houses, except the lighthouse and two lonely farmhouses, in
all the section lying south and west of what is now Broad-
way. The lighthouse was reached only by a cart track through
the pastures, with two or three gates or pairs of bars on the
way, which must be carefully closed after passing.
But this smaller Castine throbbed with a commercial activ-
NOTE. — The brief time available for preparing this address obliged the writer to
draw almost exclusively from his own recollections, so that the address has a more per-
sonal tone than would have been preferred.
6 OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
ity to which the present town is a stranger. It was the
business center for Penobscot, Brooksville, and the islands
within ten or fifteen miles. There were well-kept wharves
and ample storehouses for the supply of the fisheries at the
Grand Banks and the Bay of Chaleur. In the early spring,
the wharves were crowded with the vessels of the fishing
fleet, shipping their supplies for a four months' voyage. In
the summer came ships with cargoes of salt from Liverpool
and Cadiz, — sometimes the ships owned here, sometimes
French ships or barks with their red-capped sailors, giving to
the delighted boys of the town our first lessons in a foreign
tongue. Then came back the fishing fleet, deeply laden with
their well-earned ocean spoil. On the first of January again,
the fishermen gathered here to receive the "bounty" with
which the United States government encouraged their ardu-
ous vocation. The amount paid in this way every year
made an important addition to the income of the fishermen,
and, as the result shows, was indispensable to the continuance
of the business. From the time when the government ceased
to pay the bounty, the business declined, and, so far as this
region is concerned, has come to an end. The Deputy Col-
lector of this port has kindly examined the records, and in-
forms me that in the year 1857 — probably one of the most
prosperous years — bounties were paid at this office to three
hundred and fourteen vessels, to an aggregate amount of
more than fifty-nine thousand dollars.
Every summerone or two ships or smaller vessels were built
here. The ships were for the cotton-carrying trade between
New Orleans and Liverpool, which in those days proved very
profitable. Most of the moderate fortunes which made Cas-
tine in proportion to its population one of the wealthiest
towns in the state grew out of the shipping interest. There
is a tradition — I do not know how reliable — of one ship
built here, of the value of some thirty thousand dollars, which
actually cost her owners nothing. The custom was, that one
of the merchants — who found their advantage in supplying
the ship carpenters and their families — would undertake to
HISTORICAL ADDRESS 7
build a ship, and, reserving a quarter or more of the owner-
ship for himself, would propose to one and another of his
neighbors to take an eighth or a sixteenth, as each might
feel disposed. Those were days of long credit, the bills being
settled at the end of the year. In the case named, the ship
was built and sent to New Orleans, and the owners waited
for the time when they must pay for their several shares.
But the ship made a very prompt and successful voyage,
and when the time of settlement came, there was nothing to
pay. The ship's earnings for that voyage had covered her
entire cost.
In those days, Castine was the shire town of the county.
The court house was the present Town Hall, and the jail
stood above it, where now is a garden of vegetables and
flowers. The high spiked fence which surrounded the jail
did not wholly hide the grated windows of the cells, and we
boys sometimes gathered to listen to the shouts of the pris-
oners in language that was far from edifying.
I am a little surprised to discover that my own recollection
of the men prominent in the town in those days, is connected
in most cases with their presence on the Lord's Day in this
church. At that time this was the only church on the pen-
insula holding regular services, and men of all denominations
came together in this place. As a boy, I saw them here
more often than elsewhere, and under conditions which
printed their faces deeply upon ray memory. Here at my left
sat Hezekiah Williams, then, or later, member of Congress
from this district. I remember with what lawyer-like intent-
ness he watched the preacher, as if bound to test the strength
or weakness of even,' argument. One of his sons, Edward
P. Williams, thirty years later than the time of which I am
speaking, was a commander in the United States navy, and
lost his life in the Japan seas. The sloop-of-war Ofieida, of
which he was in command, was run down and sunk by the
Peninsular and Oriental mail steamship Bombay, in Yoko-
hama Bay. Commander Williams and nearly the entire
ship's company, two or three hundred men, went down with
8 OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
the ship. Farther away, still on the northerly side of the
house, sat Dr. Joseph L. Stevens, for many years the beloved
physician of the town, ministering also to a wide circle of pa-
tients in adjoining towns and on the nearer islands. Near
him sat Charles J. Abbott, a younger lawyer than Esquire
Williams, in later years prominent in connection with the edu-
cational interests of the town.
In the same section of the church sat Robert Perkins, the
father of Elisha Perkins, and of the late Mrs. Daniel Johnston.
Mr. Perkins was a farmer and shipowner, but especially
known to the boys of that day as the possessor of a large
orchard, the fruits of which he dispensed generously to us all.
I remember especially his sunny face, which seemed always
ready to break into a smile. Perhaps something was due to
the fact that he was associated with my father in some busi-
ness matters, so leading him to take more notice of me than
he would otherwise have done, but I always had the feeling
that, more than most men, he thought a boy was worth car-
ing for, and so he won my lifelong gratitude.
Another kindly face comes back to me, as I wander in
memory over the worshipers in this sanctuary in those days,
— the face of my uncle, Thomas Adams. Much the same
might be said of him as I have already said of Mr. Perkins.
He was superintendent of the Sunday-school connected with
this church, and his genial, winning ways must have effectively
commended to many young minds the sacred truths he set
before us. Of my own honored father, I leave it for others
to speak.
The mention of the name of Thomas Adams gives occasion
to refer to an interesting fact, which Mr. Noah Brooks kindly
named to me a few days since. When the British had pos-
session of Castine in 1814 and 181 5, they established a cus-
tom house and collected duties on imported goods. After
the war, the United States government demanded another
payment of those duties. The merchants refused to pay, and
suit was brought against them in the United States Court.
Thomas Adams, as one of the principal merchants, was named
HISTORICAL ADDRESS g
as defendant. The amount involved was about one hundred
thousand dollars. Daniel Webster was attorney for the de-
fense, and won the case. So much, in substance, we knew
before, from Dr. Wheeler's valuable history of the town.
Now, it has been learned that the money which the British
collected was kept separate, and was known as the Castine
Fund. It was taken to Halifax and remained unappropriated
for some years, and finally was given with accumulated inter-
est to Nova Scotia, for the founding of Dalhousie College.
I have spoken of the forms and faces which rise most
clearly before me, when I look back on the congregation
of my boyish days. There are others which I recall, but
less distinctly, partly, it may be, because in their places in
the church they did not fall so well within the range of my
vision, — Charles K. Tilden, Sewall Watson, Charles Ellis,
Mark P. Hatch, Noah Mead, Doty Little and Major Otis
Little, who in still earlier days was the president of Cas-
tine Bank. Major Little's youngest son, the son of his old
age, was George B. Little, one of the most gifted men that
Castine has produced. It was my good fortune to be brought
into intimate relations with him in college and in after life.
He was for some years pastor of the First Church in Jiangor,
and later of a church in Massachusetts, but passed away in
the midst of his years and of his usefulness.
Besides those I have named there were men prominent in
the town of whom I have clearest recollection, as it hap-
pens, in other places rather than in the Sunday assemblage, —
Judge Nelson, for many years judge of the Probate Court for
the county, and William Witherle, father of our present citi-
zens of that name. He must have been a man very accurate
and exact in his habits, for I think I must have seen him
scores of times, after walking up from his place of business at
noon, turning in at the gate of his house on Main Street, at
the very moment when the twelve o'clock bell began to ring.
I must add to this enumeration of those who in my boyish
days seemed to have leading influence in the town, the names
of Joseph Bryant, John H. Jarvis, George Vose, Dr. Rowland
632350
lO OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
H. Bridgham, and Capt. Henry Whitney. Rev. William
Mason — Parson Mason, as he was always called — I re-
member to have seen here only once. That was when I went
to his house to obtain a book from the Social Library, of which
he had charge. His removal to Bangor must have been in
my very early boyhood. Some years later, when I was resid-
ing in Bangor for a time, he very cordially welcomed me to
his house.
I have referred chiefly to the men of adult years who were
prominent here between the years 1835 and 1845. I must
be allowed to speak also of my own boyish playmates who
have passed away, — James Hale and James Brooks, brothers
in each case of those still with us. They, with one yet living
companion and myself, formed a quartette in which there
were, as I remember, no discords, but always a delightful har-
mony. Many a chowder we ate together on the shores of
Back Bay, otherwise known as Wadsworth Bay. More than
one May-day festival we observed, in a chosen spot in " Per-
kins's Back Pasture," trudging over the hills at the sun-rising,
laden with our supplies, and dragging our weary feet home-
ward with the declining day. Many a pleasant sail we had
together, often in Dr. Stevens's sailboat, which one of our
number could obtain when not in use. But they have now
sailed far away beyond the horizon, and we who remain are
glad to hold them ever in loving remembrance.^
I have spoken of the sea and shipping as the source of
commercial prosperity, to this town. But it is more than
1 Mr. Joseph L. Stevens, in a familiar letter to the writer, recalls the names of some
of the older boys of our day : —
"Above our generation, chronologically speaking, were Thomas Little and joim,
David Cobb, John Perkins, Otis Hatch, the Upham brothers, the Upton brothers, the
Vose brothers, the Whitney brothers, et ah. I know of only one survivor of them all,
Thomas Little, who went to Dixon, 111., some threescore years ago, and now is in high
honor in that thrifty place as one of the pioneers. Then came Haskell Noyes, Thomas
Adams, Thomas Hale, and many compeers, among them Noali Mead and Jacob Den-
nett, the Damon and Pythias of their time, jestingly called "Jake Mead and Noah
Dennett." Here too was Barker Brooks, whose muscular swing of the bat would send
the ball farther down the ' Common ' than any other boy in the town. Then came our
generation."
HISTORICAL ADDRESS I \
material success that the sea has brought to us. The ocean
is an educator. Those who are brought up by the seaside
have a new realm of nature thrown open before them. In
addition to the natural history of the land, — the beasts and
birds and insects, the trees and shrubs and flowers, — they
have also the multiplied life which inhabits the deep, and that
which plants itself on the ocean shores, — shells in their end-
less variety, sea mosses, the strange vegetable products which
make their home in the salt sea, the lower growths which link
together vegetable and animal life, and all that class of border-
land existences to which science is giving so much attention
in our day. The children who grow up in the country are
educated in respect to the grandeur of nature and into an
apprehension of the majesty of the Creator, by wintry storms,
by mountain heights, by summer tempests and rolling thunder.
But how much is added to the impression upon the young
mind and to educative influence, where he sees also the ocean
in a storm, the mighty waves tossing human fabrics like toys,
and hurling themselves upon the rocks with a force that
shakes the solid earth ! "They that go down to the sea in
ships, that do business in great waters, these see the works
of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep."
And the touch of the ocean trains our youth in courage and
skill and adventure. Many a mother, to be sure, dreads this
part of the education of her boys, and would be glad if it could
be omitted. When her little ones learn to paddle and row and
scull, almost as soon as they learn to walk, when they climb
the masts of the incoming ships to dizzy heights, and with
yet untried skill sail away to the islands or beyond the sound-
ing rapids of the Bagaduce, the mother's heart trembles with
anxious fear. And when later the nautical fever seizes her
growing boy, and he can no longer be held back from com-
mitting himself to a sailor's life, and going to visit strange
lands beyond the ocean, she is ready to wish they had an
inland home, where the glamour of the sea should never have
fastened upon her sons. But she may not be wise in this.
The boys are getting a most valuable training. They are
12 OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
growing manly and energetic and courageous. When the
country calls her sons to her defense, when any noble sacri-
fice appeals to youthful enthusiasm and devotion, the boys of
the seaside are not found wanting.
Nor is this yet all that the sea has done for us. The com-
munication with other countries which belongs to a seaboard
town has a broadening influence. Seafaring men get larger
views, and learn to look on more than one side of a question.
If Castine, with its somewhat secluded position so far as
communication by land is concerned, had not found this out-
look by means of the sea, there would have been danger of the
growing up of narrow prejudices, local habits, estrangement
from the large movements of humanity. But our fathers
and brothers in many instances went over the sea. The tides
of a larger life flowed in upon us. And instead of settling into
narrow and provincial views and habits, we have become as a
community, I am proud to say, in a good degree broad-minded,
public-spirited and patriotic. This assuredly is a result which
our favoring circumstances ought to have brought to pass
among us, these qualities we are in all honor bound to possess.
When the question of holding the Centennial Exposition
at Philadelphia in 1876 was under discussion in Congress, it
is said that Charles Sumner was not altogether in sympathy
with the plan. At that time this country had not reached
the proficiency of the present day in many lines of manufac-
turing industry. Mr. Sumner said in substance — I cannot
quote his words : " It is unwise for you to invite a comparison
with the Old World in the more delicate and difficult processes
of manufacturing skill. They have had centuries of experi-
ence, while your attainments in this line are young and crude.
You cannot compete with Europe in these things. You have
no royal palaces, with their jewels and treasures of a thousand
years. You cannot equal the painted windows and the marble
statues of their cathedrals. But you have what is better, —
the cathedral character, the free and intelligent and enterpris-
ing men. These are your true trophies. Here you may
safely invite comparison." It is the men of Maine that have
HISTORICAL ADDRESS
13
made her what she is. Out of the earnest Christian spirit of
our forefathers, out of the high moral tone and unselfish devo-
tion of those who laid the foundations of New England, have
sprung an energy of character and a strength of achievement,
which have given our portion of the country an honorable
place among the commonwealths of the Union. Maine is in
the fullest degree a democratic state. I use the word, of
course, not in a political but in a literal sense. Here, more
than in the older sections of the country, men are measured
simply by what they are. We have no old families with an
almost commanding influence in social and public life. We
have no autocratic leaders, dominating legislative action, and
controlling political affairs for their selfish ends, I have no
wish to disparage other portions of the land. I claim only
that the free and fair spirit of democratic equality which be-
longs to our country, and is one secret of its prosperity, belongs
in an eminent degree to our native state.
Mr. Whittier has contrasted the rich material advantages
of the South and West with the poorer soil and severer
climate of Massachusetts, but claims for the Bay State a pre-
eminence in another direction, and his words are even more
closely true, in some respects, of Maine than of the mother
Commonwealth : —
'•The South-land boasts its teeming cane,
The prairied West, its heavy grain.
And sunset's radiant gates unfold
On rising marts and sands of gold !
" Rough, bleak and hard, — our little state
Is scant of soil, of limits strait ;
Her yellow sands are sands alone,
Her only mines are ice and stone !
" From autumn frost to April rain,
Too long her winter woods complain ;
From budding flower to falling leaf.
Her summer time is all too brief.
" Yet, on her rocks, and on her sands,
And wintry hills, the schoolhouse stands.
14 OLD HOME WEEK IN CASTINE
And what her rugged soil denies,
The harvest of the mind supplies.
" The riches of the Commonwealth
Are free, strong minds, and hearts of health ;
And more to her than gold or grain.
The cunning hand and cultured brain."
Castine is "one of those old towns with a history." We
have — what few locaHties on this new continent possess —
a record running back three centuries or more, and localized
and made definite by many points of historic interest which
can be exactly identified. All honor to the generous zeal
which has undertaken to guard against destruction these
priceless relics, and which has kindly marked for us so many
of the historic spots ! This flavor of the olden time which
hangs about the town is a heritage of increasing value. The
changes which are sweeping away so many of the things that
are old will never sweep this away. On the contrary, this —
we may be assured — is a feature of interest which will grow
ever more precious with the advancing years. As time rolls
on, more and more of poetic interest will gather around the
names of D'Aulnay, and La Tour, and Friar Leo, and Baron
Castin; other pens will be enlisted, to add to what has al-
ready been so well done, in rescuing from oblivion the in-
cidents and legends of the past, and in immortalizing in
fiction and romance the events of our early history. The
steady growth of antiquarian interest and research in this
country is sure to reach after, and draw out to the light,
and embellish in ever richer illustration and detail, the ample
materials for study which belong to the events that have
transpired here.
The commercial activity of Castine may have passed by, or
may have been suspended, until the long-hoped-for railway
train shall cross Hatch's Cove, and sweep down whistling
through our streets. 13ut be that as it may, there are other
things we can never lose. The natural beauty with which
God has endowed our native town, — the ever-changing gran-
deur of the ocean and bay, glittering in the summer sun or
HISTORICAL ADDRESS
15
thundering in storm upon our western cliffs ; the quiet beauty
of river and cove and inlet ; the glory of the sunrise and the
gorgeous painting of the sunset ; the blue haze of the far-away
mountains, and the nearer vision of green islands, — emeralds
set in a silver sea, — these rare, almost unequaled, features
of majesty and beauty, no change can take from us and no
lapse of time can impair.
It is gratifying for us who in other parts of the country
keep the memory of our Old Home fresh and green, as it is
for you who dwell still by the ancient hearthstones, to see
that others, who had not the privilege of being born here,
have discovered the attractiveness of the dear old town, and
have come to make their summer homes with us. We wel-
come them, — unless, indeed, it is more fitting that they wel-
come us, the wanderers, — at least, I may say, we join hands
with them, in appreciation of the beauty and healthfulness
and romantic history of the town, and rejoice in the generous
heartiness with which they identify themselves with our local
interests.
The sons and daughters of Castine who have gone out
from the Old Home are found in almost every state of the
Union, and more or less in foreign lands. Fifty years ago,
when the ships sailed from this port every autumn to New
Orleans, there were many from here in that city ; and now
Castine is represented there, if not by new accessions, at
least by the children and grandchildren of those who were
born here. To-day Boston is full of Castine boys. They are
found in Bangor and Portland, in New York and Philadel-
phia, in Chicago and St. Louis, in Cincinnati and Minneapo-
lis and San Francisco. We hear of them in Jamaica and
Hawaii, and on the shores of China and Japan.
We do not forget those who with patriotic devotion went
out from us to the war, some of them, alas, not to return.
They gave their lives for the country, at Bull Run and Cold
Harbor, at Hall's Hill and at Gettysburg. Out of the one
hundred and thirty-seven who enlisted in the army and navy,
twenty-three of whom there is record, fell in battle or died
1 6 OLD HOME WEEK IN CAS TINE
in the service. Let their names be cherished in grateful
remembrance in all generations !
Of the sons and daughters of the town who have found
their later homes elsewhere, a goodly number are here to-
day, or have been here for the festivities of the week. We
have come back in response to your kind invitation. We
come with glad greetings to you who have kept guard by the
ancient watchfires, and with quickening affection for the Old
Home. We miss many faces that once were dear to us, but
we rejoice that we are not forgotten, and that there are many
still to bid us welcome. In our present homes away from
here, some of us may wear perchance a sober mien under the
duties and cares of maturer life, and those who see us there
and who cannot look below the surface may call us sedate or
even stern. But in Castine, we are boys and girls again, and
the burdens of life slip off from our shoulders. The very air
is a cordial which is almost intoxicating. The associations
and memories which meet us here make us forget our years.
It is a joy to us to find the old town as beautiful as ever, and
to see that the generous spirit of local loyalty and regard
for the common welfare has not died out. It is an abiding
gladness in all our dispersions to look back to these cher-
ished scenes, to people again the streets and the homes with
their former occupants, and so to live over again the life of
our youth.
Some lines^ that were not written for this place, yet express
so well many of our thoughts, as we from afar look back to
these scenes, that we may adopt them as our own : —
" Often I think of the beautiful town
That is seated by the sea ;
Often in thought go up and down
The pleasant streets of that dear old town,
And my youth comes back to me.
iThe liberty has been taken to make slight changes in these fine lines of Longfel-
low's, in order to adapt them to the present use.
HISTORICAL ADDRESS
" I can see the shadowy lines of its trees,
And catch, in sudden gleams,
The sheen of the far-surrounding seas,
And islands that were the Hesperides
Of all my boyish dreams.
" I remember the black wharves and the slips.
And the seatides tossing free ;
And the foreign sailors with bearded lips,
And the beauty and mystery of the ships,
And the magic of the sea.
" Half strange to me are the forms I meet
When I visit the dear old town ;
But the native air is pure and sweet,
And the trees that o'ershadow each well-known street,
Sway their branches up and down,
" And the evergreen woods are fresh and fair,
And with joy that is almost pain
My heart goes back to wander there,
And among the dreams of the days that were,
I find my lost youth again."
17
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