Cats and all about them

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THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

^«*Y-'

BEQUEST

OF
ANITA D. S. BLAKE

CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Miss Frances Simpson and her Silver Male "Cambyses
Gunn &* Stuart, photo, Richmond

CATS

AND ALL ABOUT THEM

BY

FRANCES SIMPSON

WITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS

NEW YORK

FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY
PUBLISHERS

PUBLISHED IN SEPTEMBER, i9°2

GIFT

TO

THE MANY KIND FRIENDS
KNOWN AND UNKNOWN

THAT I HAVE
MADE IN PUSSYDOM

I DEDICATE
THIS LITTLE BOOK

DURDANS HOUSE,
ST. MARGARET'S-ON-THAI

113

PREFACE

IT has been suggested to me by many of my "catty"
friends that I should write a small handbook for cat
fanciers. By arrangement with the Kennel Publishing
Company I have been enabled to utilise the paragraphs of
Practical Pussyology which have appeared during the last
fifteen months in Our Cats. I have had many years' ex-
perience with cats and kittens, and have also a real love
for them, without which I do not believe any one can be a
successful breeder and exhibitor of cats. What is worth
doing at all is worth doing well, and to combine profit with
pleasure is a most desirable end to have in view. The
object, therefore, of this little book is to assist cat lovers to
become cat fanciers. I trust that it may be found helpful
and instructive.

CONTENTS

FACE

I. BREEDS AND VARIETIES ... » * . 17

II. CARE AND MANAGEMENT . • • • * '• • • 24

PRACTICAL HINTS 31

III. BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 53

PRACTICAL HINTS . • ... 60

IV. DISEASES AND REMEDIES 77

V. CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES . .... 95

VI. MISCELLANEOUS * » * » . . 107

ILLUSTRATIONS

1. COVER. Design by Mrs. Paul Hardy

2. FRONTISPIECE. Miss Frances Simpson and her Silver male

Carabyses

FACING

PACK

3. GENTIAN. A lovely Blue female, owned by Lady Marcus

Beresford, and bred by Mrs. O'Brien Clarke. Her sire
was Goliath, a superb cat for size and colour. Gentian
was a prize-winner at Westminster in 1899, when her
marvellous coat excited general admiration ... 17

4. IMPERIAL BLUE was bred by Rev. P. L. Cosway, his present

owner, from Angela and Blue Noble. This youngster
has already made a name for himself in the show pen.
He was born August soth, 1900, and took prizes at
Castleford and Wakefield. At Slough, 1901, he carried
off the special for the soundest coloured Blue, and has
since gained high distinction at Manchester. Imperial
Blue is now placed at stud in our advertisements for the
first time 20

5. ROYAL BOBS. This fine Blue male was bred by H.H.

Princess Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein from Lady
Marcus Beresford's Blue Boy II. and Duschar. He
was purchased when a kitten by Mrs. Collingwood,
and at his first appearance at the Botanical Gardens,
in 1901, he took ist in the Cat and ist in the Kittten
Class. Since then he has taken four other ist prizes
and two championships, besides many specials. Royal
Bobs is a dark Slate Blue, but very sound in colour,
with a beautifully shaped head and fine eyes ... 24

6. OTHELLO, as his name denotes, is a Black Persian, and

claims such noted cats as Beauty Boy, Lord Albemarle

xii ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING
PACK

and Peter Fawe among his ancestors. Mr. Robert Little,
who is famed for his breed of beautiful Blacks, is the
possessor of Othello, who is not yet a year old. He has
done a lot of winning already, both in kitten and adult
classes, and bids fair to lead the way in the Black
classes at our best shows 28

7. PIQUANTE PEARL was bred by Mrs. Pettit from her well-

known White stud cat King of the Pearls and Beautiful
Pearl. This lovely female is quite the most beautiful
specimen of a long-haired White Persian, having glorious
blue eyes with a full coat of finest texture. Piquante Pearl
isawinner of numerous istprizes, championships, medals,
and specials at the Crystal Palace and Westminster
Shows. Some of her lovely kittens have been exported
to America 32

8. CHAMPION BACKWELL JOGRAM is the only Smoke cham-

pion and the winner of many ist prizes, medals, and
specials. At the Crystal Palace Show, 1901, this fine
Persian cat won the special offered by the Duchess
of Bedford for the best Smoke male in the show. Jogram
is owned and was bred by Mrs. H. V. James, who is
one of the most enthusiastic breeders of this handsome
variety. He has sired many noted winners, and is much
in request as a stud cat . 36

9. TEUFEL. Mrs. Sinkins is the breeder and owner of this

most beautiful Smoke male, who, although only 18
months, has won many prizes. Good Smokes of his type
are few and far between. His colouring is perfect, and
his face and head quite free from the tabby markings
that so often mar the beauty of this breed. Teufel
greatly distinguished himself at the Westminster
Show, 1902, where he won the Challenge Cup, Breeders'
Cup, ist prize, and numerous specials . . . .40

IO. CHAMPION FULMER ZAIDA is the renowned Silver female
owned by Lady Decies. This cat has won more prizes
than any other in the Fancy, numbering over 150.
Zaida is almost an unmarked specimen, and her colour
is wonderfully pure. She has carried off the highest
honours at all the leading shows, and will probably
continue to win whenever exhibited 44

ILLUSTRATIONS xiii

FACING
PAGE

11. THE ABSENT-MINDED BEGGAR is a fine Silver by Lord

Southampton and Dimity, both well-known cats. He
is unusually pale in colour, with beautiful gi;een eyes.
Mrs. Nield, of Bowden, now owns the Beggar, who
is greatly in request as a sire. His kittens inherit his
beautiful qualities of coat and colour .... 48

12. LORD HAMPTON, another Silver, is also an inmate of the

Hart Hill Cattery, and was purchased by Mrs. Nield from
Mrs. Davies, of Caterham. As a kitten this lovely Silver
greatly distinguished himself, taking many prizes. He
has a grand-shaped head, but was out of coat when the
photo, which we reproduce, was taken. Lord Hampton
has sired some splendid kittens ..... 52

13. SILVER STARLIGHT is the property of Miss Snell, of

Wimbledon. This Silver male cat is beautifully pure
in colour. He distinguished himself at the Crystal
Palace, 1900; Brighton, 1900; and at Westminster,
1901, he made a great name for himself by winning the
Challenge Cup and numerous special prizes. Amongst
his progeny may be mentioned Puck III., a winning
kitten, now in the possession of H.H. Princess
Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein 56

14. LORD NUGENT is a well-known shaded Silver male belong-

ing to Mrs. Ormerod, who is a most successful breeder
of Silvers and Smokes. He is the son of Lord Argent.
The Silver Lambkin and Lord Southampton are his
grandparents. He has taken several ist and 2nd prizes,
and sired many noted winners ; amongst others may be
mentioned Maritana, the perfect Smoke, purchased by
Mr. Cosway. Lord Nugent has a fine head, and is
unusually massive in build for a Silver .... 60

15. TORRINGTON SuNNYSiDES. This rich-coloured Orange

male is the property of Mrs. Vidal, of Sydenham, and
was bred by her. He is by Champion Bundle and
Torrington Owlet, and was born in 1899. He has gained
many prizes, and at Westminster Show, 1902, he won
the Challenge and Breeders' Cup, Silver Medal, and
several specials . ..... 64

xiv ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING
PAGE

16. CHAMPION ROMALDKIRK ADMIRAL, one of Miss Winifred

Beal's celebrated Heavenly Twins. This grand Cream
stud cat has never been beaten in his class, except by
his brother. His prize-winning record is too long for
insertion. This cat is in the proud position of being a
Champion in the N.C.C. and the C.C., having carried
off no less than 14 Championships. Matthew, of The
Durhams, a well-known winning Cream, is sired by
the twin-brother Midshipmite 68

17. CHAMPION ROYAL YUM YUM is one of the best Tortoiseshell

queens in the Fancy. Her colouring is well broken, and
she is a beautifully formed cat Miss Kate Sangster,
her owner, has won many prizes with her at all the
leading shows. Very poor justice can be given to this
special breed in a photograph, as the beauty of a Tor-
toiseshell chiefly consists in the equal distribution of
the three colours 70

18. CHAMPION PERSIMMON is the celebrated Brown Tabby

Persian, owned by Miss Frances Simpson. He is perfect
in shape, with an immense head, short snub nose, and
tiny well-placed ears. He was purchased by his present
owner at Brighton Show, 1898. Since then he has won
whenever shown, and is now a Champion in both the
N.C.C. and C.C. Clubs. He has sired a long list of
beautiful brown Tabby prize-winning kittens . 74

19. CHAMPION BALLOCHMYLE BROTHER BUMP. This grand

Short-haired Blue (commonly called Russian) is the
property of Lady Alexander, and has won a first prize
whenever he has appeared in a show pen, and, curiously
enough, each time under a different judge. He won the
Challenge Cup at Westminster in 1900, and since then
three championships at N.C.C. Shows. He is beautiful
in colour, has a well-shaped head, and grand orange
eyes

20. CHAMPION WANKEE, the noted Siamese, is owned by Mrs.

Robinson, of West Kensington, who has always been an
enthusiastic and successful breeder of Siamese. He has
won over 30 prizes, and sired, among other notable
kittens, Beba, Menelik, Sam Sly, and Chaseley Robin,
all winners of championships ......

ILLUSTRATIONS xv

PACING
PAGB

21. TIAM-O'-SHIAN IV. is another Siamese of high repute, the

property of Mrs. Vyvyan, who bred him ; but Tiam
resides with Mrs. Parker Brough whilst his owner is
abroad. He is a magnificent type of Siamese, even in
colour, with deep seal] points. He comes from Miss
Forestier- Walker's celebrated strain ; and amongst his
progeny may be mentioned Champion Eve, Suzanne,
and Kitya Hara . 86

22. BRANDON QUEEN CHEETAH is a lovely Brown Tabby short-

haired cat, belonging to Mrs. Bernard Wentworth. This
puss is well and distinctly marked, and rich in colour.
One of her kittens, Brandon Tommykins, took high
honours at Westminster Show in 1901 .... 90

23. MANX SILVERWING, a quaintly marked little Silver Tabby,

formerly owned by Mr. Foalstone. At the Manchester
N.C.C.C. Show she was purchased by Mr. Ward, of
Longsight. Silverwing has won many prizes, and calls
forth great admiration whenever exhibited . • •94

24. PERSIMMON LADDIE, a sable Neuter by Persimmon and

Birkdale Fina, is the great pet of Miss Rosamound
Whitney, an Irish fancier, who is an enthusiastic
admirer of Brown Tabbies. Laddie took highest honours
at the Northern Cat Club's Show at Manchester, 1901,
and was justly admired for his gorgeous colouring and
marvellous coat. Laddie took special for the best Tabby
Neuter at Westminster, 1902, and first at Liverpool, 1902 98

25. BONNIE BOY. This promising young Blue is owned by

Miss Frances Simpson, and was exhibited by her at the
Crystal Palace, 1901, when at four months old he took
2nd prize in a class of 39 kittens, the limit age being
eight months. Bonnie Boy was also awarded a special
prize for the best orange eyes in the kitten classes. He
is from Miss Patterson's celebrated strain of Blue
Persians, and his mother is a Black, owned by Mrs.
H. B. Thompson. The photo was taken when he was
three months old ........ xoa

BREEDS AND VARIETIES

I DO not intend to discuss the ancient history of cats, or to
raise the question as to whether they were amongst the
animals who entered the Ark ; nor is it necessary to allude
to the Wise Men of the East who worshipped the cat as a
deity : I wish rather to confine my remarks to cats as they
are known to-day. Of these, then, there are two distinctive
breeds, viz., the Long-haired or Persian Cats, and Short-
haired or English and Foreign Cats.

In both long- and short-haired breeds there are " self-
coloured," "broken-coloured" and "any other coloured"
varieties. Apart from the length and texture of fur, the
points of the animals are practically the same, whether long-
or short-haired. They should be cobby in build and short
on the legs, the head should be round and broad, eyes large
and full, nose short, ears small and wide apart. So much for
the general contour of the cat.

With the majority of fanciers the long-haired cats are
the most popular. I will start with the self-coloured long-
haired cats, viz., Black, White, and Blue.

I do not think sufficient attention or admiration is given
to Black Persians, and very few fanciers have taken up this
handsome breed. The Black Class is generally the worst
filled at our Shows, and yet a black cat is said to bring luck,
and a black cat does not show the dirt ! In the early days
of the Fancy, the question of eyes was one left in abeyance,
but now we have a special standard for each breed, and
blacks must have orange or even amber eyes to find favour

B

1 8 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

with the cat critique and judge. Then, again, a white spot
at the threat was not formerly considered a very damaging
blemish, but nowadays even a few stray white hairs may be
a cause of disqualification. At certain times of the year this
breed shows signs of lustiness and a brown tinge mars its
beauty, but when in full coat the colour should be black as
coal with a shining glossiness on the silky fur.

A White Persian Cat, with correct blue eyes, in full coat
and spotlessly clean, is indeed a " thing of beauty," but let
no one try to keep one of this breed unless they live in the
country. A white cat soiled is a white cat spoiled, and I
have known a famous prize-winner put down by the judge
on account of its dirty condition. A peculiarity of this
breed is that the cats are frequently deaf. It is also the
only breed which sports odd eyes, and in almost every
litter of whites one or more of these curious freaks will
appear.

And now to turn our attention to Blues, that lovely breed
which has become so deservedly popular. I exhibited the
first pair of Blues at the Crystal Palace many years ago, and
ever since we have lived and loved together ! I am now
the Hon. Sec. of the Blue Persian Cat Society, with nearly
two hundred members. At all the Shows the entries of
Blues outnumber all other classes, and there is a greater
demand for Blue kittens than for any other colour.

When Blues were first started the colour was decidedly
darker than at present ; it was a slate blue, but of late years
fanciers have been striving to obtain a paler tone. I think,
however, that the " happy medium " is the best. In the
standard for Blues the largest number of points is given for
soundness of colour, and it is most essential that no shadings
or markings should appear in these cats, which should be
absolutely level in colour throughout. It is only in recent
years that fashion and custom have decreed that Blue Per-
sians must have orange eyes. Certainly they tone best with
the colour of their coat, and greatly enhance the beauty of
heir appearance. It is a pity, however, to sacrifice other
essential points to this one feature. Judges are sometimes
inclined to put down a fine specimen which has every point
in its favour except the orange eyes. I advise that, if you
possess a grand-shaped, fine-coated Blue with green eyes,

BREEDS AND VARIETIES 19

find a mate with deep amber eyes, and keep your green-
eyed puss away from Shows ! Blues may be considered a
fairly hardy breed of Persian, and they make lovely pets.

Smokes are rather a neglected variety, and may be said
to be a mixture of the three self-coloured breeds — black,
white and blue. A perfect Smoke is most difficult to breed,
and unfortunately for only a short time during the year do
they keep their good looks. When they shed their coats
Smokes are often transformed into bad Blacks, and this is
disappointing, and specially vexatious to the fanciers who
desire to exhibit their cats frequently. The points of the
Smokes have been keenly discussed in catty circles and
Specialist Clubs. Their coats should be dark cinder-colour,
shading to white with a light raff and ear-tufts ; eyes amber.
Of late years attempts have been made to cross Smokes
with Silvers and Blues, but I consider that Smokes should
only be mated with Smokes to keep the correct colour and
points.

And now for the consideration of Silvers, commonly called
Chinchillas, otherwise named Shaded-silvers, and very often
labelled " Wrong Class " ! To novices in the Farley this may
sound a little mixed, so let me explain. TheSe beautiful
cats have been through stormy waters, so to speak. A
Specialist Society was started last year for this breed which
also included Silver Tabbies and Smokes. The Silvers were
subdivided into Self-silvers and Shaded-silvers. As, how-
ever, no Self-silver has yet been born or bred, there was
naturally a difficulty in filling any class set apart for these
particular specimens at the Shows. So the lightest Silvers
were considered eligible, and then came the difficulty for ex-
hibitor and judge to draw the line between the two varieties,
and to decide what degree of paleness constituted a Self-
silver (so-called) and what amount of dark markings would
relegate the specimen into the Shaded-silver class. Natur-
ally it became a Silver puzzle and a Silver muddle. Exhibitors
waxed wroth and judges became exasperated. Then the
term "Self-silver" was abandoned, but the endeavour to breed
a Silver without any shadings or marking is still the height
and ambition of many a fancier of this beautiful breed.
There is a great fascination about these Silver Persians, but
they have been so inbred of late years that great delicacy has

20 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

resulted, and many a tale of woe has reached me concerning
the difficulty of rearing Silver kittens. But I feel sure better
times are in store for this breed, and certainly Silvers vie
with Blues in popularity. The points of a Silver cat may be
summed up thus : A pale shade of silver as free from
shadings and tabby markings as possible ; eyes green. For
some time it was considered that Silvers might have either
orange, yellow, or green eyes, but now the highest authorities
in the Silver Society incline towards green eyes. I think
judges in general give their verdict in favour of this colour,
and I am sure they all desire only one class for Silvers and to
keep them as distinct as possible from Silver Tabbies ; the
one class, namely, Silvers, to be as free from markings as pos-
sible, and the Silver Tabbies to have clearly denned black
markings on a pure silver ground work. It is these markings
that give the distinguishing feature to the beautiful breed of
Silver Tabbies. I admire the splashed-type more than the
delicately pencilled variety. There are very few really good
specimens in the Fancy, and it is a great pity some of our
clever breeders do not take up Silver Tabbies and try to pre-
vent them from being crossed with nondescript Silvers,
thus weakening the markings and damaging the breed.

I think it is generally known in the Fancy that I am par-
tial to Brown Tabbies, and truly I believe they occupy the
warmest corner of my cat-loving heart ; perhaps, because I
first started with a Brownie, or possibly because they have
been a very looked-down-upon breed. However, as every
dog has his day, so I hope a good time is coming for this
truly handsome type of cat, so suggestive of a tiger. In build
Brown Tabbies ought to be decidedly large and massive.
The groundwork should be a rich tawny colour, with dark
black markings very clearly defined ; the legs evenly barred,
and distinct rings round the neck, like so many chains.
What are generally exhibited as Brown Tabbies lack the
orange or golden tone, and have too much drab or grey in
their colouring. The eyes should be yellow or orange. Any
white in Tabby cats is a decided blemish.

There is a tendency now to breed Orange cats with tabby
heads and legs and self-coloured bodies. This seems a
mistake. No doubt an entire Orange cat without any mark-
ings would be very handsome, and perhaps some of our

I!

BREEDS AND VARIETIES 21

enthusiastic Orange fanciers may succeed in breeding such a
cat, and also produce blue eyes ! At present the classifica-
tion generally stands for Orange cats, marked or unmarked.
The colour of the eyes should be a bronze gold, or hazel
brown. Orange females are much rarer than Orange males.

Cream Persians are very much to the fore now, but the
name is suggestive of a cat much paler in colour than those
seen in the Show pens. These cats should be as self-
coloured as possible, without tabby markings or shadings.
They are often rather patchy in colour, and lean towards
fawn rather than cream. Their eyes should be the same
golden or hazel colour as in the Orange breed.

It is seldom a really good specimen of a Tortoiseshell
is seen. These tricolour cats of black, orange and yellow
should be patched, just like the marks in a piece of tortoise-
shell. There should be no streaks, stripes or tabby mark-
ings in a good Tortoiseshell cat, and the colours should be
well broken and evenly distributed over the body, head and
legs. The brighter colours should predominate, and no
white is permissible.

To novices only in the Fancy need I remark, that Tortoise-
shell Tom cats are extremely rare. Tortoiseshell and white
long-haired cats are by no means common. Most of those
exhibited have too much white about them, and might justly
be called White and Tortoiseshell. To be correct, the black,
orange and white should be evenly balanced, and the chest
and nose should always be white, with patches of colour on
either side of the face.

And now to consider the Short-haired breeds. My re-
marks as to the Black, White and Tabby long-haired cats
equally apply to the short-haired varieties. The Blacks
must have no white, and the Whites be pure in colouring.
The eyes of the former should be orange, and of the latter
blue. It will be easily understood that the markings in the
Tabby short-haired cats are much more vivid and distinct
than in the long-haired breeds. There are also * Spotted
Tabbies, but they are rare. In these there should be no
lines whatever — not even rings. The more the spots appear

* Strictly, of course, this is a contradiction in terms, for " Tabby "
means "Striped." Still the name "Spotted Tabby" has become
established and is intelligible.

22 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

to the exclusion of any other markings the better the speci-
men. I have never seen or heard of an Orange-spotted
Tabby.

The commonest of all cats are Short-haired Tabbies and
Whites, and Blacks and Whites. We see these specimens
on many doorsteps. The markings are sometimes quite
grotesque in their distribution. It seems almost a pity to
so far encourage these cats as to give classes for them at
our Shows. The " Any other colour " class is set apart in
both the long- and short-haired sections for this description
of cat, and for those that cannot really be properly classed,
such as very light Smokes, Tortoiseshell Tabbies, and Blue
Tabbies. Formerly Self-coloured cats with white spots were
entered also in this class, but it has wisely been decided
that these must take their chance in their own classes. The
Blue Short-haired cat, commonly called Russian, has a coat
resembling plush in texture. These cats are supposed to
have first come from Archangel, but the best authorities
seem to agree in believing they are not a distinct breed, and
therefore they are now classed at our Shows amongst the
short-haired English varieties. Blues should have deep
orange eyes, and the colour of coat may be light or dark,
but must be even throughout, without any appearance of
stripes or markings. A v* hite spot, as in other self-coloured
cats, is a blemish.

The interest in Manx cats is rapidly and surely increasing.
These quaint pussies are very intelligent, faithful and affec-
tionate,bu t I must confess the love of this particular breed
appears to me to be an acquired taste. The first, and all-
essential point, is that a Manx cat should have absolutely
no tail: one should be able to feel where the backbone
ends. Some Manx cats have a tuft of skin or hair, or a
stump, but such appendages count against these specimens
in the Show pen. The fur of the Manx cat is longer and
softer than is found in the ordinary short-haired cat ; its hind
legs resemble those of a rabbit ; and the absence of tail gives
an appearance of still greater length of limb. Self-coloured
Manx cats are much rarer than Tabbies, and I know of a
Tortoiseshell Manx — needless to say, a female.

Perhaps the most difficult cat to breed and rear in this
country is the Siamese. Some fanciers declare these cats

BREEDS AND VARIETIES 23

cannot stand our climate, and others attribute their great
delicacy to those terrible pests — worms — to which this breed
is very subject. Certain it is that breeders of Siamese have
much to contend with and many disappointments to suffer.
The Royal Cat of Siam, so called from the original breed
being kept in the Palace of the King of Siam, is one of the
most fascinating cats to keep as a pet. They have wonder-
ful intelligence, and seem to have great powers of attaching
themselves to human beings. In colouring they resemble
pug-dogs, When born they are nearly white, and gradually
turn a pale fawn. Their ears, muzzle, tail and legs should
deepen to a dense brown chocolate colour. The markings
of the ears should be sharp and distinct. The eyes should
be a lovely bright blue, large and round. On the question
as to whether the tail of a Siamese cat should be kinked or
not kinked, no two opinions appear to agree, though H.M.
the King of Siam is quoted as saying they ought not to be.
A rather strange characteristic of this breed is the tendency
to darken in coat as they grow in age. For this reason it is
well to have the classes at Shows divided according to age.
Siamese cats may be said to be in their prime at a year old ;
after this their colouring becomes blurred.

The only other foreign cat that calls for attention is the
Abyssinian or Bunny cat, and it is not often that specimens
are exhibited at our Shows. We have no special fanciers of
this breed. The fur has a groundwork of reddish-brown
ticked with darker brown markings. The coat should be
close and soft.

The "Maltese" (Short-haired Blue) cat of the United
States is not known by that name in England, nor has the
American "coon cat" or the Mexican hairless cat yet been
seen on our Show benches. References to the two former of
these will be found on a later page.

II

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

THOSE who have had a long experience with cats or kittens
know how impossible it is to lay down a hard-and-fast rule
regarding their feeding and management. As with human
beings so it is with cats. They have their likes and dislikes,
their dispositions vary, and their constitutions are totally
different. If we wish our pets to thrive we must study them
individually, not collectively. There is a saying that "what
is one man's meat is another man's poison," and I have known
some kittens to grow fat and look well on food on which
others have dwindled away.

It is a mistake for a novice to start with a large number of
cats, for failure is sure to follow. Two good females is
enough to begin with, and these would probably be indoor
pets.

Kittens are no trouble to " settle down," but with grown
cats it is very different, and it is well to find out from pussy's
late owner whether she has been a house pet or cattery cat,
as well as her favourite diet, and whether she had been used
to sawdust or earth in her sanitary-pan. Her happiness on
entering a new home depends greatly on her own disposition.
Some cats do not seem to mind a change of abode and
ownership in the least, and are most affectionate and
demonstrative on being liberated from the basket. They
will eat anything that is placed before them. Unhappily
there are others that, as soon as they find themselves in a
strange place, are frightened and miserable, and will rush
into the farthest and darkest corner of the room under a

Mrs. Collingwoods "Royal Bobs
Charles, photo, London

CARE AND MANAGEMENT 25

chair or sofa. It is kindest in these cases to leave puss
alone for some time ; then try by gentle persuasion to coax
her out of her hiding-place with a saucer of milk or some
" tit-bit." She may refuse all food for two or three days,
but before long she will get accustomed to her new sur-
roundings, and at the end of a week or ten days will probably
be perfectly happy and contented.

Of course, for the first few days it will be necessary to
keep windows and doors shut, and to show her constantly
the pan she is to use — or to take her into the garden, so as
to teach clean habits. If, when she is in the garden, you
find she has made a sudden dart, do not attempt to chase
her ; it is the worst thing you can do. Wait until she is
inclined to stop and look about ; then call her gently. You
will probably find she does not want to run away. But be
careful how you take her up. Some cats will not be handled,
and will struggle and fight and scratch and bite, but a cat
cannot escape if you catch her by the skin at the back of the
neck. I do not mean that you should keep her in a hang-
ing position, but your right hand would be holding her neck
as you nurse her in your left arm. Cats are naturally timid,
and it is curious to note what antipathy they have as a rule
to men, though they will grow as devoted to a master as to
a mistress. But a strange man's step fills them with alarm.

The golden rules to observe in the feeding of cats are
Regularity and Moderation. An authority on cats recently
told me that the primary cause of the majority of the ills
that the cat is subject to is over-feeding, and the conse-
quent over-taxation of the digestive organs. Two solid meals
a day besides milk twice, are quite sufficient for any ordinary
cat (nursing mothers and young kittens excepted — of which I
will speak later). For breakfast a solid meal of some " food "
such as The Phoenix Food, Melox, and those prepared by
"Salvo," Freeman, and Mellin; any of these given hot
make a delightful breakfast. Porridge and fish or fish and
rice are very much appreciated — and if you wish to flavour
equally any of the " food," it is a good plan to get the fish
and put it on a dish and pour some boiling milk or water
on it ; then mash up the fish with a fork and pour the fish and
milk (or fish and water, as the case may be) over the" food,"
biscuit, rice or oatmeal porridge ; then mix well together to

26 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

give the whole food a fishy flavour. For supper give a
meat meal — raw meat, horseflesh, liver, tripe, rabbit, or
lights — but do not give lights constantly if any lung trouble
is suspected among your pets. Where several cats are kept
it is advisable to get a mincing-machine, as not only does it
save considerable time, but the food finely minced is much
more digestible than cut up meat, however small. Green
vegetables should be given in moderation, as they act as a
blood purifier. Every care should be taken not to give food
that is the least tainted. For growing cats or kittens that
may be at all weak in their limbs, lime-water is indispensable,
as it gives strength and forms bone. A dessert-spoonful of
lime-water in milk should be given to cats, and a little less
to kittens. In the spring of the year a pinch of sulphur
powder (the black for preference) should be mixed with the
first meal of the day twice a week, as a preventive of skin
troubles.

On no account should you allow your queen to mate
more than twice in the year, nor should these litters follow
too closely — as it is a strain on the mother, besides making
her dreadfully thin ; and it must be remembered that this
will affect the kittens, making them weakly and delicate.
Gestation lasts nine weeks (sixty-three days), but cats often
go three days and even longer beyond that time. As the day
for the " accouchement " approaches, it is as well to give a
small dose of oil or to feed on sardines as the bowels should
be kept well opened. The bed should be made a week
or more beforehand and be shown to " Madame " for her
approval. It is best to have a box — fairly high so as to keep out
all draughts, yet not high enough to prove an inconvenience
to puss each time she jumps in and out. Hay is nicest to put
in the box — and a little insect powder should be sprinkled
underneath. After the kittens have arrived a piece of
blanket on the hay is much appreciated by the mother, but
neither she nor her kittens should be handled for at least
twenty-four hours.

If it is a first litter or if the mother is not reliable, a
foster-mother should be in readiness. For preference in
such cases get a strong English cat, as they are more robust
than Persians, and often far more loving mothers. Four
kittens are enough for any average cat to bring up. In the

CARE AND MANAGEMENT 27

selection of a foster-mother the age of both litters should
be about the same (at any rate within a week) as the
mother's milk varies according to the age of her offspring, and
not only this, but new-born kittens require more maternal
watching and warmth than kittens of three or four weeks old.
If it should happen that the mother dies or deserts her
babies or has no milk, and a foster cannot be found, you
must do your best to bring them up by hand. This in-
volves much care and patience. A hot-water bottle covered
with flannel comforts the tiny mites. They should be fed
every two hours during the day (and at least twice during
the night) for the first fortnight with milk and water and a
tiny pinch of sugar. Up to the end of the first week the
proportion of milk and water should be one part milk and
two parts water, including a little lime water. At the end
of the first week it should be half and half till three weeks
is reached, when it should be three parts milk and one
water. At three weeks old, if milk is not given, Mellin's
Food is to be highly recommended, and the proportions of
"Mellin's," milk, and water are given with the directions
for "infants and invalids," and common sense tells one
which of the directions to adopt. At five or six weeks old,
solid food ought to be given in very small quantities —
three quarters of a teaspoonful of the finest and most tender
minced raw meat twice a day (but not given consecutively),
Mellin's food two or three times ; and a little thin arrowroot
may be given for a change, beef-tea or a tiny helping of fish
mixed with warm milk. This same diet only in rather
larger quantities may be given till eight weeks old ; from
that age to three months a little rice and gravy, Spratt's
puppy biscuit (very finely mashed), Salvo's or Freeman's
food or Phcenix with gravy. Rabbit-broth or fishy flavour
can be introduced, and is very much enjoyed. Milk pud-
dings too are good for kittens. Be sure to offer your cats
grass, as it is nature's own medigine, and animals will not
take it unless they need it. A nursing mother should have
three solid meals a day, and miik twice if she will take it,
but do not give her too heating and stimulating a diet, as it
is apt to produce scurf in the kittens. When this is noticed
give the mother a pinch of sulphur powder on her first meal
two or three times a week.

28 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

What fanciers dread most in their litters are bad eyes ; if
they are the result of cold they are not so hard to cure but
the usual cause is debility and worms in the mother or other
constitutional weakness. If the kittens are only a few weeks
old the mother should have a worm dose as this affects the
milk and acts on the kittens beneficially. The kittens them-
selves should not be dosed under three months old. It is
cruel to take a kitten from the mother until eight weeks old.
Never dose a cat for worms when in kitten after the first
fourteen days as it would be more than likely to cause a mis-
carriage. These hapless events usually occur at the end of
five weeks, and are generally caused by fright, chill, or weak-
ness, or are the result of old age of either of the parents
(generally the mother). If once a mishap has occurred
history may repeat itself and especial care should be taken at
the time which has proved the most critical to the mother
in previous matings.

I should mention that diarrhoea is another ailment very
common in kittens and there are various causes — chill, indi-
gestion and worms. This troublesome complaint should at
once be stopped or the kitten loses strength and succumbs.
Fleas and those horrid little lice also work great havoc. And
I have seen more than one victim to these pests, with deadly
white lips, nose and mouth, the coat all rough and wiry, the
kitten itself a bag of bones with no real disease except
what the insects have caused, for they suck the blood, thus
causing anaemia, and irritate the sufferer almost to madness.
A tooth comb will get rid of all the dirt and nearly all the
fleas ; then rub a little insect powder into the fur, but never
use insect powder on very young kits as the mother has
a horror of it and might desert her kittens in consequence.
It is often necessary to toothcomb young kittens. Mr.
Ward, of Manchester, makes a very good powder which
kills lice, but it does not destroy the vitality in the eggs at
once, so the powdering will have to be repeated at intervals.
This powder has a very inoffensive smell, but I would not
recommend using it on kittens until six weeks old.

I have not yet mentioned out-of-door catteries. These are
best made of wood — raised up from the ground — and should
be covered with felt or corrugated iron. There should be
plenty of ventilation, avoiding draughts. A wired-in run is

Mrs Robert Little's "Othello"
Nottle, photo, Beckenhant

CARE AND MANAGEMENT 29

most desirable and ought to be covered over so that in wet
weather the cats should not have to be shut in their rooms
all day. There is no doubt that cats thrive best out of
doors and can stand any amount of dry cold. Artificial heat
ought not to be encouraged ; it makes cats delicate and very
susceptible to cold and other catty complaints ; while in-
variably giving kittens weak eyes. The cattery cat is far
better off with the temperature even, and with a nice com-
fortable bed in a cosy corner of her "room" — a box with
plenty of warm hay for the winter months and paper for the
summer months.

Great attention should be paid to keeping the sanitary
pans clean and well supplied with earth or saw-dust, other-
wise pussy is encouraged to be dirty, for she will not go to a
pan which has nothing but wet mould, and she much resents
a pan that one of her neighbours has used. If two or three
cats have to share accommodations it is best to have two or
three pans about. Londoners especially should lay in a
stock of Japanese mould, as supplied by Carter's of High
Holborn. All feeding vessels should be kept scrupulously
clean and never left standing about.

In advocating out-of-door catteries it must be understood
that it would be madness to put a cat out in mid- winter
which had hitherto been a house- cat. She would probably
be dead from pneumonia within a week. But cats put out
for the first time in the early summer thrive all the year
round better than those who lead an indoor life. They have
healthier appetites and grow better coats.

Speaking of coats reminds me that a cat comb and brush
should be kept and each cat combed down once a day. It
prevents their hair from matting, brings out the old coat, and
causes the new coat to come on more quickly, and last, but
certainly not least, it keeps the coat clean and free from
insects.

I have spoken of nursing mothers and kittens, but not of
stud cats, Stud cats require more meat and stimulating
food than others ; and a day should not pass without their
having a plateful of meat. Raw meat occasionally is abso-
lutely essential.

Never forget to keep your Tom cats well supplied with
grass, for having no amount of exercise they require it

30 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Above all things don't overwork your stud cat, and try to
avoid inbreeding. I can highly recommend Boulton &
Paul's capital houses for stud cats. I have had one for
four years, and it has answered splendidly ; and my cat
Persimmon, who inhabits it, has never ailed anything.
Mine is a double house, but I had the partition taken down,
so that there is quite a fair-sized exercise ground.

A few words about gelded cats will not be out of place in
this chapter, my remarks being applicable to both long and
short haired neuters.

For reasons that are easily understood it is necessary, if
you wish to have a house pet of unimpeachable manners,
to have your male cat doctored when he arrives at years of
discretion, or in this case I might say, indiscretion ! I con-
sider between five and six months the best time for a cat to
be gelded. These cats grow to an enormous size, and their
coats are generally very long and thick. They do not shed
their fur to the same extent as ordinary cats. Certainly
they should always be judged in a separate class at all
shows. The neuter class at good shows is often most attrac-
tive and well filled. As a rule these cats are more docile
and better-tempered than others, and though they are con-
sidered a lazy set, yet rats and mice will be generally kept
under by the household pet. When fanciers are over-
wrought by disappointing litters, troublesome Toms and
prolific females, I have more than once heard them exclaim :
" I shall get rid of all my cats, and only keep neuters 1 "

II (continue^}

PRACTICAL HINTS ON CARE AND
MANAGEMENT

Kittens.

IT is always advisable when buying a kitten to make inqui-
ries as to the way in which it has been fed, so as to continue
the same regime for at least a few days. Any sudden change
of diet for young kittens is to be avoided.

For delicate kittens raw meat should be passed through a
mincing machine, or if the animal is really extremely weak
and ill, then let it be rubbed through a sieve, so that the
digestive organs will have little or no work.

Teach your kittens when young to lap water. It is a
capital thing for all animals, especially with a small bit of
sulphur in it.

There is a great knack in teaching young kittens to feed
themselves. When they are about three weeks is the time
to try and get them to take a little milk and warm water :
say about twice a day. I find a shallow plate is better than
a saucer, for when the mites dip their mouths into the milk
they do not get out of the depth ! It is curious how stupid
some kittens are in making the start towards independence
iu feeding, whilst others in the same litter quickly master
the difficulty of lapping on *he surface of the milk. Some
are taught better if the milk is held to their mouths in a

32 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

spoon. Add a pinch of sugar to the milk and warm
water.

In bringing up young kittens by hand, the mistake is often
made of giving too much food and over-loading the little
creatures, who in consequence suffer from acute indigestion.
A teaspoonful of milk or Mellin's food at a time is sufficient,
and this may be given every two or three hours. It is best
to try and not awaken kittens in order to feed.

Of course one is sometimes obliged to feed by force, but
this should be resorted to only as a last extremity. I have
often spent an hour or more in trying, by all sorts of
persuasive means, to get a kit to feed of her own sweet will,
and have felt a throb of pride when my efforts have been
crowned with success.

Some kittens will begin to feed themselves at three weeks,
and be quite able to leave their mothers when they are five
or six weeks old. I do not think, however, that kittens
should be sent adrift till they are at least two months old,
by which time they will have some idea of the method by
which their careful and attentive mother has kept them
clean and tidy.

I do not approve of raw fish, especially for young kittens,
it is not easily digested and often causes diarrhoea.

There is a knack about teaching young kittens to be clean.
As soon as they are able to scramble out of their basket
care should be taken not to allow them to run into corners.
When this occurs pick them up and put them in the pan of
earth or mould provided for them. With patience and per-
severance you will find the little creatures will accommodate
themselves to circumstances and the pan !

The weakest part in a young kitten is, undoubtedly, the
eye, and I think breeders will bear me out in my statement
that they have a great deal of trouble with bad eyes in kittens.
Several lotions and ointments are supplied, but sometimes I
have found these irritating. Use sweet oil to keep the lids

Mrs. Pettit's White Persian " Piquante Pearl '
Russell &* Sons, photo, London

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 33

from sticking together, give plenty of fresh air and sunshine
when possible, and leave the rest to the mother.

A good guide as to the health of kittens is their weight ;
and a kitten to be in really prime condition should weigh
one pound to every month, say up to six months old. So
if you find a three-months-old kit much below three pounds
you should feed him up.

It is a capital plan to teach your young kittens to some-
times take their food from a teaspoon, so that when it is
necessary to administer a dose of medicine it comes more
natural to them.

I have often noticed that very long-coated kittens are the
most delicate, their strength having gone into their fur. I
recently came across a liiter of Blues that at three weeks
old were enormous to look at on account of their extra-
ordinary coats. They were really tiny limbed creatures,
and they dropped off one by one without any apparent
cause. I do not know if there is anything in the notion
that if the male cat is very strong and healthy the offsprings
will consist of more males than females, but from experience
I have found that an old queen will almost invariably breed
females largely in excess of males.

I believe that all kittens are born healthy, and, therefore,
supposing the mother is weak and delicate, it is best to have
a foster ready, and take each kit away as it is born, not
allowing it to suck from the mother at all. I have recently
heard of great success following this course. The mother
was consumptive, but the four kittens given at once to a
healthy foster are splendidly strong.

Kittens generally shed their first teeth when between five
and seven months old. This is often a very critical time,
and I have known several cases of convulsions occurring.
Owners of cats should frequently examine the mouths of
their pets, if they suspect any teething trouble. It is some-
times necessary to draw some of the old teeth to make way
for the new comers. I can tell of one poor cat who refused

c

34 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

all solid food, and for no apparent reason. I opened his
mouth, and discovered a double row of teeth, and at once
extracted several loose ones, which must have been the
cause of great pain and discomfort.

I object to sawdust for young kittens. I have just heard
of a case in point, where some of the small particles got into
the kitten's ear, and the little creature, in its endeavour
to get rid of the tickling, caused a bad sore by scratching.

There is no doubt that as a pick-me-up for delicate
kittens the sea air is much to be recommended. It is quite
wonderful to see the transformation in these little mites after
a few days of sunshine by the sea. Their eyes become clear
and bright and their appetites require something more than
air and light to satisfy them.

You may, perhaps, observe a sort of roughness under the
fur of your kitten, and fancy it is some skin trouble, whereas
in reality it is quantities of flea dirt. This is very injurious.
Use a small tooth comb, and then part the fur, and brush
with rather a hard brush.

When kittens reach the age of four weeks they should
begin to learn to lap. A shallow plate filled with milk and
warm water is better than a saucer. Begin by just dipping
the kits' mouths into the milk. They will rather resent
this treatment at first, and make a spluttering, but the
cunning ones will grasp the situation and make another
attempt on their own account. They will quickly learn not
to dip their heads too deep, and their joy is great when they
find they can lap up the milk without nearly choking them-
selves.

Mother and Young

The best months for our pussies to have their families are
April and May, then the young kittens have the summer
before them, when they can enjoy plenty of out-door air and
exercise.

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 35

Perhaps you may have noticed a decided partiality for
bottom drawers that your puss will display as the date of the
expected arrival draws near. I think in this respect a mother
cat shows her good sense, for certainly if a bottom drawer
can be spared, it is a very safe and convenient home for a
litter of kits. They are out of draughts and danger, and if
the drawer is left an inch or two open, they can get plenty of
air. Of course, whilst the mother is nursing them a larger
opening is necessary, so that she may jump in and out.

Do not allow your cats to have their kittens in outside
catteries during cold weather. The mother is not able to
attend to them properly till all are born into the world, and,
therefore, the neglected ones are sometimes perished to
death before they can cuddle up to get the natural warmth
they so much require.

When cats are in kitten great care should be taken in
handling them, and if it is really necessary to lift your pnss,
do so with both hands, placing one under her hind quarters.
It is very injurious to attempt to pick up a cat in this
interesting condition under the front paws, thus leaving the
heaviest part of the body suspended.

It is most important that all female cats should be freed
from worms before being allowed to breed, or even to mate.
So o'ten young; kittens fall victims to these pests, having
sucked in the disease with their mother's milk. I highly re-
commend Ward's worm powders, but as all vermifuges are
weakening, a specially nourishing diet should be given at the
same time.

After our puss has given birth to two, three, or four
kittens, we are often led ^y her size to suppose there are
more' to follow. Sometimes we may be right, but more
probably it is only a temporary enlargement, and in a day
or two we become, perhaps, concerned to find the mother's
sides very visibly decrease. Give hot milk and farinaceous
food to your puss just at first after the birth of kittens.

Some pussies greatly resent being looked at during the

36 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

first days of their motherhood. They will show their dis-
pleasure by carrying off their kittens and hiding them. I
have just heard of a case where the kits mysteriously dis-
appeared from their basket, and after diligent search the
litter of four was found carefully packed away in one of the
boots belonging to the gentlemen of the house ! It is best
to place the bed in some secluded and dark corner, and not
to trouble the family with frequent visits.

It is a bad habit to feed your puss in her hamper when
she is nursing her kittens. She may be averse to coming
out and leaving the precious family, but it is best for her to
stretch her legs, and cleaner and nicer in every way.

It is after the first week or ten days that a nursing mother
begins to feel a large family trying. There is really no
immediate necessity for a foster when the mites are only a
day or two old.

Don't distress yourself if your mother pussy refuses her
usual saucer of milk when she is nursing a family. The in-
stinct in animals, even in mere cats, is wonderful, and if puss
prefers water TO milk, be sure she has her reasons, which are
unknown to the human mind.

When a cat is nursing let her have plenty of hot milk.
This will be a great assistance to her in providing sufficient
nourishment for her family. Warm Bovril or Kreochyle
is also very sustaining, to which I find cats are very partial.

Sleep is almost as essential as food to young kittens, so
when you see them cuddled up comfortably, do not disturb
them and always avoid handling them. Perhaps through
some disaster or because your puss deserts her kits, she
is left with a lot of milk, It is best to give her a dose
of castor oil and rub her breasts gently and frequently wiih
camphorated spirit or eau de Cologne, diluted with a little
warm water. In about three or four days the milk will dry
up. It is very seldom that cats suffer from milk fever.

Don't let your Persian queens bring up more than four

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 37

kittens. Try and secure a foster to assist if the litter is a
larger one. It is when kittens are about a week old that the
mother begins to feel the strain upon her. A nursing mother
should have four good meals a day.

It is well to book a foster cat if our queens are not good
mothers. The difficulty is generally to fix the date of the
arrival of the foster mother's kittens. It is best to have the
foster in the house a few days before the litter is expected.
A cat should not be allowed to take a railway journey having
just had a family, as the shaking is likely to upset the puss.

There is really no difficulty in transferring kittens to foster
mothers, and it is well to keep common cats in view at
about the period when our valuable queens are due to kitten.
I have found the following plan answer splendidly. Take
it for granted your Persian queen and the common or garden
cat have litters about the same time. You proceed to pain-
lessly destroy all but one of the fester's family. Then place
two or three, or all of the valuable kittens in the nurse cat's
bed, mixing them up with the one kitten, baving in the
meantime removed the mother. In this way the new kittens
will become scented as it were with the surroundings, and
on her return the mother will give a few sniffs, and pro-
bably cuddle down quite contentedly, with only a vague
suspicion that something has happened.

Some cats will be excellent mothers to a large family,
but if anything should happen to any of the litter and she is
left with only one or two she will desert them. It is better
to try and procure other kittens to put with her, and let her
foster these with her own.

Kittens should not be taken from their mother before two
months, and those that are left another month are generally
the better for it. Not only is it well for the cat to suckle
her young as long as possible, but the natural warmth is
very essential for kittens of tender age. Avoid handling
your cat when she is in kitten, and when the family arrives
resist the temptation of picking up the tiny mites. Some
mothers resent this, and will often hide away their offspring,

38 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

and they have been known to eat them in consequence of
undue interference.

I was once possessed of a lovely blue female, whose only
fault was neglecting her offspring when about a fortnight
old. I hit upon the plan of using the filler of a fountain
pen. I charged this with warm milk and water, and
placing the end in the kitten's mouth, I gently pressed
the rubber. The kits sucked away with great glee. This
is a much better mode of getting food down young kits'
throats than by using a spoon. I believe Mr. Ward, of
Manchester, has improved upon my patent, and a glorified
fountain-pen filler is now provided by him. This has a
piece of india-rubber fixed on the part of glass tube which
is put in the kitten's mouth, and thus all risk of their biting
the glass and breaking it is done away with. Let me recom-
mend all breeders of kittens to have one of these useful
articles amongst their catty requisites,

It is not very safe to put Keating's Powder on your baby
kits, but, if troubled with fleas, sprinkle some amongst the
hay at the bottom of their basket, under which place a news-
paper. You will be astonished what a number of fleas,
dead and dying, will be found on removing the basket.
Change the hay frequently, and sprinkle fresh powder. In this
way, both mother and kits will be kept free from these pests.

Don't have anything to do with red baize or flannel in
making a bed for young kittens. If these materials get wet
the dye comes out and stains the coats horribly. The other
day I came across a little family of Blues with red tails !

In wintry weather it is risky sending our precious queens
on long journeys. Make use of large sheets of brown paper
as coverings to the hampers. This denes the wind much
better than woollen wrappers or linings.

I am often asked how it is best to set about breeding
Persian cats so as to make it pay, and I invariably answer
by telling my inquirers to procure two thoroughly good,
healthy pedigree queens. At the present time, I should

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 39

suggest a Blue and a Silver. Send these to mate with well-
known sires, and advertise the kittens just before they are
ready to leave their mother, say at about eight weeks old.

Avoid the use of drugs of any kind for your cats when in
kitten. Give extra food, and when the interesting event
draws near, prepare a nice box or bed in a secluded corner.
Some cats much prefer paper to hay or straw ; others like a
folded blanket.

Male and Stud Cats

I am sure it is a mistake if you have a stud cat to allow
him his liberty one day and then shut him up again. He
will pine and fret much more than if kept in continual con-
finement. It is important, however, that our male cats
should have plenty of fresh air and a long enough run to
take some exercise.

One of the advantages of cat shows is that we are enabled
to take stock of the various males, as in some cases adver-
tisements of stud cats are a little misleading. I attach great
importance to size of head and form of body. Sufficient
attention is not paid to mating cats when they are not show-
ing any indication of moulting. Choose a stud cat in good
coat if possible. The outward characteristics are in a great
measure transmitted by the male, so look well to markings,
colour, and shape of the stud cat selected.

The usual fee for the services of a good stud in the cat
fancy is £i is., and the expense of carriage is defrayed by
the sender of the queen. In the United States the charge
is from five to ten dollars.

A word to novices. Beware of keeping your male cats
together after they have passed ten months, as I have
recently heard of a torn who attacked his brother very
suddenly and nearly killed him.

It is a good plan to try and accustom your cats to be
tethered up. My stud cat is quite happy on a long cord.

40 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

He gets to know about the distance he can walk round.
In this way he has a fair amount of exercise and plenty of
fresh air.

Catteries and Appliances

If you decide to keep your cats and pets in a cattery,
bring them indoors now and again and thus accustom them
to home life and human beings. It is much pleasanter to
have a really domestic cat, rather than one that darts away
when approached and is frightened at every sound.

All wooden catteries should be well raised from the ground.
It is important to have good ventilation. It is a capital plan
to have movable wooden shutters, so that in extra windy
or damp weather these can be easily put up to form a
shelter.

In constructing a cattery, be sure and have plenty of shelves
fixed up. All cats have a weakness for sitting on a shelf,
however hard or narrow.

During the winter we are sometimes wishful to heat our
catteries, although I am not in favour of artificial heat. After
a heavy rain or dense fog we have recourse to a little oil
stove. Be careful to protect this in some way by wire net-
ting or a fire guard. I have known a cat to waft its tail over
the top of one of these stoves, and it was more than
singed !

Cats are essentially and naturally clean animals, and it is
orten the fault of their mistresses and caretakers that they
become dirty in their habits. Keep their earth tins clean
and sweet, and you will seldom find that pussy offends. Cats
so much prefer to have something to scratch in and scratch
over.

Japanese mould is splendid for use in cats' tins. This can
be purchased at Carter's well-known firm in High Holborn.
It has the advantage of being a great absorbent, consequently

Mrs. Sinkin's Smoke "Teufel"
Debenham &> Smith, photo, Southampton

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 41

no disagreeable odour is noticed, and the mould need not
be changed so frequently as ordinary earth.

A house pet whose behaviour cannot be relied upon is not
a desirable inmate. It is always best to have an arrange-
ment of an earth tin in some quiet corner, and to accustom
the cat to make use of this in an emergency.

I never advocate any artificial heat for cats or kittens,
but if you have a delicate specimen, or one suffering from
a cold, and the weather is severe, then I have found that
a hot bottle at night is a great comfort. The india-rubber
ones are the most handy, but failing these, a stone ginger-
beer bottle filled with boiling water, and tightly corked,
answers the purpose. Wrap it in flannel and place in the
bed last thing at night.

It is a good plan during the winter months to keep a store
of dry earth in some covered place, so that you can have
a constant supply with which to replenish your tins. There
is nothing a cat resents more than being asked to use a tin
containing damp earth.

All sleeping boxes or hampers for cats should be raised,
and, even for a cat sleeping in the house, a bed, on a chair
or box, is much to be preferred to letting her lie on the
ground where there is certain to be a draught.

Be sure and let your pussies have an abundance of hay in
their beds during the winter months. Boxes are warmer
than hampers, and the top should be covered over so that
the cat may crawl in from the front over a ledge of a few
inches of wood. Then when inside the bed she is protected
from any ground draught.

The straw or hay provided for our cats should be changed
at least once a week, and oftener in summer. A little
Mothalene sprinkled at the bottom of the box or hamper
keeps down troublesome insects.

During the summer do not put too much hay in your

4* CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

cats' beds ; in fact, I prefer a sheet of newspaper laid at
the bottom of the box or hamper. Hay is heating, and
encourages fleas.

Some cats have a most troublesome and irritating habit
of rubbing their heads against the walls or wire netting of
their houses. A sheet of glass about the height of the
animal will prevent the destruction of their coat and ruft
from the continued friction.

If you use wire netting in your catteries be very careful
that the ends are neatly finished off and that no sharp bit of
wire is left sticking out. I have known cats receive severe
injuries to their eyes from scratches, and often their coats
suffer from being caught on the rough ends of the netting.

It is always best to keep separate and distinct saucers
and plates for our pussies' use. I would recommend the
blue and white enamelled ware, which is unbreakable. I
find, also, that it is often very convenient to heat the
milk in one of these plates instead of troubling to boil it
in a pan. If a saucer of milk is placed on a closed stove
for a few minutes it soon becomes hot, and no injury is
done to this enamelled ware. The basins are also very
handy, but for Long-haired cats the plates are better, as
pussy's ruff is less likely to become soiled with the food.

I find that my cats prefer a circular basket as a bed to a
square one ; they seem able to curl round more comfortably.
This is specially the case with a mother puss and her litter
of kits.

Have you remarked how fond cats are of each having
their own plates and saucers from which to feed ? I have
lately invested in some nice deep white saucers. They were
a " job line " at twopence-halfpenny the dozen !

If you are building cat-houses, remember that a concrete
floor is much better thsm a wooden one. It may seem cold
in winter, but a piece of movable linoleum or cork " lino "
will add to the appearance and comtort of the cattery.

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 43

During very hot weather our stud cats who inhabit houses
suffer a good deal when the sun strikes down upon them.
I cover the front of my cattery with an old rug and then
make free use of the garden hose, letting it play upon the
top and saturating the thick cover. This has a wonder-
fully cooling effect, which lasts some time. During the
process my cat retires into his sleeping apartment.

It is difficult to procure suitable earth tins for our cats. I
tried several, but they were either too shallow or too deep,
so decided on ordering some of the required size made in
galvanised iron, at Whiteley's. Large earthenware flower-
pot saucers, well glazed, are also very suitable.

Hints on Food

If you can persuade your pussies to eat Spratt's Cod Liver
Oil Puppy Biscuits you do them a good turn and yourself
also, for they are very nourishing and inexpensive. We all
acknowledge that raw meat is an excellent diet, but if we are
possessed of a number of queens, two or three stud cats, and
several litters of growing kittens, then the butcher's bill
becomes a serious consideration. The biscuits should be
soaked for some hours till soft enough to be mashed through
a fork ; a tablespoonful of the red gravy from a roast joint
added, diluted with a dash of hot water and a sprinkle of salt.
The kits will not leave much beside the pattern on the plate.

A cat will often refuse her food simply because she cannot
smell it. It is therefore important to clear the passage of
the nose. Sometimes if you can put one piece of food into
your pussy's mouth, she will then taste it, and continue to
eat of her own accord.

A cat or kitten must be very far gone to refuse Brand's
essence. So, if all food fails, try this. I find they generally
prefer it in the jelly, and to lick it out of a spoon.

Oatmeal is such a splendid food for our pussies during
winter, but I do not find they are very partial to it. I would

44 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

suggest mixing the meal in water in which liver has been
boiled, and adding a few bits of the meat with it to make
the dish more tasty.

Another nice winter meal is Hovis bread (brown), with
boiling milk poured over it. A change may be made by
scalding the bread till soft, then pour off the water, and stir
in a tablespoonful of condensed milk.

Not only do bones amuse a cat, but they benefit the teeth
considerably, and help to strengthen the jaws. Large bones are
preferable, with, of course, a little flesh on them. Avoid small
ones, as they are apt to be swallowed and stick in the throat.

During the very hot weather butchers very wisely put
their meat in ice, or in cold rooms, especially arranged for
keeping it. It is not advisable to give raw meat in its
frozen state to cats, and so I should recommend just scalding
it, or pouring boiling water over it. Some people prefer to
slightly cook the meat, leaving all the red juice in it.

Two meals a day are as a rule sufficient for healthy cats,
but some who are " bad doers " require special treatment
and should be offered food in small quantities three or even
four times a day. If a large dish ot food is placed before a
cat who feeds badly, it is very apt to sicken her and make
her refuse to eat at all.

I have found macaroni, well boiled and mixed with gravy,
a capital food for cats and kittens. It makes a change, and
is generally highly approved of.

We see a number of pictures in the daily papers of plump,
pretty babies who have been brought up on Mellin's Food.
Now, it stands to reason that what is nourishing for infants
must also be good for young kittens. I know of several
cat fanciers who swear by Mellin's Food.

I advocate a mixed diet for cats, and therefore recommend
ringing the changes on raw meat, cooked meat, with vege-
tables and gravy ; fish, mixed with rice and boiled milk. I

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 45

consider two meals a day sufficient for cats, and three meals
for kittens, under ordinary circumstances. Tom cats, when
at stud, should have an extra meal given to them, and a
nursing mother just as much as she will eat. I do not
approve of tit-bits given between meals, which is harmful to
the digestion.

I have been told by an experienced fancier that tripe
is an excellent food for cats, and that they are extremely
fond of it. I intend to give it a trial, as one is always
glad to know of something in the way of a change in
pussy's menu.

An inexpensive meal for. a cat is jelly made from bones,
which can be procured from your butcher for a few pence.

I am sure that most cat fanciers on a large scale will bear
me out in my statement that hardly two cats feed alike,
therefore I consider that no strict bill of daily fare can be
laid down. With some cats breakfast seems the all im-
portant meal, and others will rejoice when supper time
arrives. Two good rules to follow are these: Food
should never be left, and water must be continually
supplied. <

Sardines are rather an expensive luxury, but during cold
weather I treat my cats to some twice or three times a week.
I find that breadcrumbs mixed in the oil makes more of a
meal and takes away from the richness of the fish.

A fowl's head, with the feathers on it, is said to be an
excellent thing for cats. Sometimes when the appetite has
quite failed, the sight of this delicacy will tempt pussy to
start eating again. The same, if a sparrow can be trapped
or shot, and given freshly killed.

I am not an advocate for bread and milk for kittens, yet
I must confess I have seen some wonderfully healthy spe-
cimens brought up on this diet. I should anyhow advise
brown bread, and the boiled milk should be poured over the
pieces of about half an inch in size.

46 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

The last meal for cats should be the most substantial one,
as it has to last until the morning. During cold weather a
cat will sleep better and feel warmer if it has enjoyed a good
supper.

Do not give liver frequently to your cats. This food is
very laxative and will cause diarrhoea. If, however, you
allow your pussies to have it now and then, be sure and boil
the meat very slowly.

I consider that cats require more feeding in cold weather
than in hot, and I generally treat my pussies to an extra
meal in the middle of the day during the winter months.

Rsw beef is generally considered the best meat for animals,
and next to this mutton. Veal and pork should not be
given.

I consider Freeman's Scientific Food capital for cats. I
have used it for two years, and my pussies never tire of it.
I mix it with fish or meat stock. I am sure that once tried
it will be always used.

I do not think fanciers estimate at its proper value pure
cold water as a drink for cats. No doubt good fre.-h
country milk is nourishing, but at the same time it is rich
for young kittens, and I have known a promising family la>d
low with liver complaint simply by allowing the ki:s too
lavish an allowance of milk. I recommended water instead,
and I hear that they are on the frolic again.

Loss of appetite is often the result of a bad cold. Pussy
loses the sense of smell, and refuses her food, even thorgu
the greatest delicacy is offered to her. Just pop a piece of tue
meat or fish into her mouth ; she will then realise how good
it is, and will turn to the plate and make quite a hearty meal.

Cat fanciers often fail to realise that their pets are thirsty
in winter as well as summer. During cold frosty weather
warm water should be added to pussy's drinking bowl.

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 47

Animals will appreciate this attention, for freezing water is
not pleasant to the tongue.

Just as with human beings so with cats ; in cases of con-
tinuous sickness soda and milk is sometimes the only food
that can be kept down.

Do not let your pussies drink icy cold milk or water, it is
most trying to their digestion and not comforting to their in-
teriors. I find my cats like their milk in winter steaming
hot and it is wonderful how hot they can lap it.

It is very important that cats should be given a good
proportion of vegetable diet. This is more especially neces-
sary if grass is not easily obtainable. Some fanciers are in
favour of lentils, and no doubt they are very nourishing, but
as a rule pussy does not take kindly to this food, and an
early training is necessary. Lentils should soak for some
hours and then be slowly boiled. They are best mixed with
scraps of meat and gravy.

If your cats cannot have access to grass, then sow seeds in
pots and leave in the cattery. Cats always prefer the
coarser kind of grass.

I find that of all sorts of grass and green food, cats are
fondest of ribbon grass. I have some specially sown in the
garden, and every morning I twist it in and out of the wire
of my cattery, and the pussies bite away at it with great
delight.

Don't forget when you wish to administer any kind of oil
to cats or kits to have the spoon quite hot. It is best to
stand it in the boiling water, then pour in the oil, which
you will find will slip down the cat's throat very easily, and
not remain sticking to the spoon or the patient's mouth.

Some cats will thoroughly enjoy to nibble at a piece of
bread and butter. One of my cats always makes her ap-
pearance at afternoon tea, and expects to be offered tea-cake,
muffin, or whatever is going.

48 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

I came across some finely grown and very plump young
cats the other day, and on inquiring about their diet I heard
it consisted of raw meat and Neaves' food. The result was
certainly very satisfactory.

It is not advisable to feed a cat just before she starts on a
journey. Give a good meal three or four hours previous to
packing her up. The receiver will be pretty sure to attend
to her wants on her arrival. It is a mistake to put food into
the hamper, and pussy generally shows her good sense by
refusing to touch it.

Many fanciers are averse to giving horseflesh to their cats,
and, no doubt, in hot weather it is not to be depended upon.
If, however, really reliable cat's meat can be obtained
during the winter months, I am sure it forms an excellent
and nourishing food. As a rule, the pussies delight in it. I
have known cats who become well acquainted with the days
on which their butcher calls, and even if they are in a sound
sleep they recognise the voice of the charmer, and will make
a wild rush for the back door.

During hot weather it behoves all cat fanciers to pay
extra attention to the condition of the meat, which should
be carefully looked over to see if it has been tainted by
flies. It is best to dip the meat in weak vinegar and water,
but this might give it a taste if to be eaten raw, so use boil-
ing water only and rub with a cloth. Flyblown meat is
most injurious for cats.

Most cats are very fond of lights, and these make a nice
change. I find it is best to half cook them, and cut up finely.
I do not recommend lights to be given more than twice a week.

Have you ever tried boiling sheeps' heads till all the meat
falls away from the bone, and then mixing it with some of its
own gravy ? It makes a delicious dish for pussy, and not an
expensive one. It is surprising what a quantity of meat
there is on a head, and I believe it is very nourishing. I use
rabbits' heads in the same way, and add some Freeman's
scientific food with the meat to make it go farther.

CQ

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 49

Eggs are very nourishing, we all know, but few fanciers
ever think of giving them to their cats. It is true that
London eggs cannot be depended upon, and the so-called
" newly laid eggs " are expensive, but dwellers in the
country would do well to try their pussies with a fresh egg
iery lightly boiled or mixed with hot milk.

I have been told by an experienced cat fancier that bone
meal is an excellent thing for cats, especially delicate animals
needing stamina. This article can be procured from a corn
merchant, and a little can be sprinkled amongst the cat's food.

I am not an advocate for tinned meat for man or beast,
but I confess I have often been very glad to fall back on a
tin of rabbit when my stock of food has run short. I find
the cats delight in it. Care must be taken to clear out all
the bones, and only the best brands of tinned meat should
be given.

It is a curious fact that all cats adore asparagus. This is
an expensive vegetable, but it is well to know of something
with which to tempt our pussy should she have quite lost
her appetite. Some cats will enjoy beetroot, and cheese is
a delight to others.

It is a mistake to suppose that because a cat catches
birds and mice she needs no other food. On the contrary,
feed pussie well and she will do her duty better. A cat en-
feebled by neglect or starvation is not in the best condition
to successfully hunt and catch its prey.

A cheap fish for our cats is hake, and I find they are very
fond of it. There is more meat and less bone than in had-
dock, which is a usual fish to select, as it is not so expensive
as other kinds.

I was told a curious fact by a fancier the other day,
namely, that frogs cause severe throat inflammation in cats,
if chased and played with by them. I can only suppose
that some poisonous exhalation comes from these reptiles.
Moral : Don't let your cats go frog-hunting.

D

50 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Care of Coats

When cats are shedding their coats, it is particularly Im-
portant they should have a daily brush, so as to get away
the loose fur as quickly as possible, and thus the new hair
will have a better chance.

It is never an easy matter to wash a long-haired cat, and
certainly in cold weather it is dangerous. If you want to
clean your puss and prepare her for showing, then purchase
a box of Pears' white precipitated Fuller's Earth. Rub this
well into the fur, especially fingering the parts that are at all
greasy. Then clear away the powder with a soft brush, and
you will see a vast improvement in your pussie's appearance.
Camphorated chalk can also be used, but it has a cloggiog
effect on the coat, is more difficult to brush out, and is not
good for the cat should she take to licking it.

Avoid washing your cats if possible, and specially be
warned against putting any carbolic in the water, with a view
to killing the fleas ; you will probably kill your cat, and cer-
tainly change the colour of his coat, if he be a Cream or Orange.

When a cat's fur looks " spiky," that is, standing out in
separate bits of hair instead of being fluffy, you may be
pretty sure that puss is troubled with worms.

When our pussies are rapidly shedding their coats they
need a little extra care and extra food. I feed oftener in
the hot weather, giving less at a time. It is bad at any
season to leave food standing about, but this is especially
the case in hot weather.

Parasites, or to be more explicit, lice on cats and kittens,
are very troublesome and destructive. They increase with
great rapidity, and thrive better on an unhealthy specimen
than a robust one. These horrid insects, as well as fleas,
exist on the blood of their victims. It is, therefore, most
important to check the evil at the commencement.

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 51

I don't like to see a cat for ever washing herself and leaving
her coat in a drenclvn^ condition. I suspect some internal or
external irritation, and the troubles may be caused by worms.

We all know what a splendid thing sulphur is for our
pets. It is one of the best and safest blood purifiers. It is
not always easy to get our dainty feeders to take their milk
or water in which sulphur has been introduced. A good
plan is to sprinkle the powder on their coats, say about once
a week, and tben, when the cat cleans itself, a certain quan-
tity will be swallowed.

Don't let the traces of fleas remain in your pussies' coats.
The accumulation of this dirt is bad for the skin and fur. It
is best to use a small tooth comb. With a little care and
attention you will soon make a clearance, and pussy would
thank you if she could speak.

Many cats are very fidgety when they are being groomed.
There is no remedy for this but patience, and after your
puss once becomes accustomed to her morning's toilet she
soon gets to like, and will even look forward to the luxury.

Many fanciers, especially novices, are alarmed when they
find dry scaly and scurfy spots on their cats, and imagine
they have eczema or mange. This roughness really only
proceeds from an over-heated system, probably from over-
feeding. Give plenty of grass or green food and apply
equal parts of sulphur and vaseline for three days, and then
comb with a small tooth comb.

Dosing

How difficult it is to poultice a cat ! Yet in cases of
enteritis and pneumonia it is often the saving of poor puss.
For enteritis or gastritis when the stomach becomes tender
and distended, make a roller of flannel, wet with tepid
water and bind tightly round the abdomen. Over this a
piece of oil silk covering to exclude all the air, and over this a
roll of dry flannel. This forms a continuous poultice. It must
be renewed when it gets cold, and the kitten kept warm.

52 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

A fish bone in a cat's throat is a troublesome obstruction.
If it can be pushed down with the finger all well and good,
but if not the only thing is to wait and let it dissolve. This
generally takes place after about five days. You may have
to feed the cat in the meantime.

A simple means of lubricating a cat's throat, if it seems
sore or swollen, is to butter her paws, she will then lick off
the butter just as many times as you put it on. A spoonful
of warm salad oil often clears the throat, and after this the
cat may have a try to swallow the food from which she had
previously turned away.

If in giving your puss oil, you grease her coat, apply a
little violet powder with your fingers, rubbing it well into
the fur. I have also found the papier poudrd sold for the
complexion an excellent means of removing greasy sub-
stances which are so disfiguring to a cat's coat.

After giving worm powders to your cats, I recommend a
saucer of hot milk, about an hour afterwards, whether the
dose has taken effect or not.

The eyes in cats vary very much according to their state
of health. I have seen cats' eyes seem half their natural
size when puss has been suffering from worms. Stud cats
quickly lose the depth of colour and brilliancy of their eyes.
But this in no way affects their progeny.

I came across a case the other day of a big strong neuter
cat who was certainly a victim to a tape worm. We tried
various vermifuges in fairly large quantities, but with no
results, so I deiermined to experiment with some of Spratt's
puppy worm powders, and the pests were speedily got rid
of. These powders, however, are much too strong for
kittens and must be used with caution even for cats.

It is very important to make sure that a dosing for worms
has been effectual. For this purpose it is best to shut a cat
up after medicine has been given and to place a thin layer
of earth in the pan provided for her.

Mrs. Neild's Silver "Lord Hampton'

Landort photo, Eating

HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 53

There is a knack in giving medicine to cats. It is always
best to have an assistant if your cat is at all difficult to
manage. Struggling with a sick animal often does more
harm than the medicine to be given can do good.

In dosing cats it is essential to consider the age as well
as weight, and a young cat and a very old one require
smaller doses than middle-aged pussies.

Oil has a most deplorable way of imparting its taste
and smell to everything it comes in contact with. Try and
avoid using it outwardly or inwardly for your pussies. It
takes a long time to get rid of a greasiness of coat and fur.

Before starting a cat on a course of tonics I should
recommend a mild aperient, and one occasionally during
the course is often advisable.

Neuters

If you intend having a cat made neuter you should keep
him on low plain diet for two or three days before the
operation. Do not hand your pet over to an inexperienced
person, but take it to a good veterinary and pay the extra
fee for cocaine or chloroform to be used.

Opinions differ as to the most suitable age for a cat to be
made neuter. I think that from five to eight months is the
best time, as kittens gelded when very young do not attain
the same fine proportions. After eight months there is
more risk to the animal, and the operation ought not to be
performed at all if the male has shown any desire to mate.
At all times send your puss to a well-qualified veterinary.

I have been told on good authority that if a female cat
is to be made neuter she ought to be allowed to have one
litter before the operation is performed.

54 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Miscellaneous

Do not let those little bits of dry brown accumulations
remain at the corners of your cat's eyes, as in time they
wear off the fur, and, when removed, bare places disfigure
your pet's face.

Unless absolutely necessary do not send your puss away
from home when ill, but nurse her in her own familiar
surroundings, where she will far more likely recover than in
a strange place, amongst strangers.

I know there is a superstition that it is unlucky ever to
weigh your cat or kitten, but I think it is a very useful way
of finding out whether your puss keeps in good health. If
after taking the weight of my cat, I found him rapidly
getting lighter, I should give a course of cod liver oil. This
is a specially good thing during the winter months. I find
that most cats will lick it up with a relish, but it is best to
mix a teaspoonful with fish.

If you notice an offensive smell coming from your cat's
mouth have a look at his teeth. It is sometimes necessary
to have the teeth scaled. There may also be a decayed
tooth that needs extraction.

If you have had any infectious complaints in your catteries,
such as distemper or influenza, after removing your pussies
fumigate your cat-house. Close it up as thoroughly as possible,
place an old shovel in the centre on the floor containing
sulphur. Put a live coal in the powder, and leave it a whole
day or night. It is a good plan to afterwards syringe into all
cracks and crevices with a strong solution of carbolic acid.

I have unlimited faith in Eucalyptus, and in the prepara-
tions of the Eucryl Company this is the chief ingredient.
I would draw special attention to their Salubrene, which
has most valuable antiseptic and deodorising properties.
It is not of a corrosive or poisonous nature, and the slight
aroma is a most agreeable one. For cleansing and dis-
infecting catteries it is splendid.

Ill

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING

HAVING referred in the last chapter to the rearing of kittens
and the treatment of Queens and Stud cats, I propose now
more especially to confine myself to the various matings and
crossing of breeds which are generally considered admissible
and advisable. A broad rule may be laid down to start with,
namely, that Selfs should not be crossed with Tabby-marked
cats or vice versa. Take white cats for instance. It is
a great pity to cross them with any other variety as probably
broken breeds would be the result. Some fanciers have
tried them with Silvers in order to get very pale and un-
marked kittens, but I have not heard of any satisfactory
results. Black cats may be mated with great success to
Blues. I know of many instances where anyhow, one kitten
of such parents, has proved to be a beautiful Blue with the
deep amber eyes so much desired. I have one in my
possession which has taken high honours. Then again an
Orange or Tortoiseshell may be crossed with a Black. In
fact a really good Black, male or female, is a cat to be culti-
vated by fanciers both for breeding and exhibiting purposes.
It has been the ambition of many a fancier to breed a Tor-
toiseshell Tom and I believe the most likely mode of suc-
ceeding is to pair a strong young black male with a Tortoise-
shell Queen of more mature age. 1 have never seen or
heard of a Long-haired Tortoiseshell Tom, although we have
some short-haired specimens in the Fancy. I have had a
good deal of experience in breeding Blues, and if it is desired

56 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

to have all good Blue kittens, then keep these clear of any
other breed. If bred with Blacks, you must be content with
perhaps only one or at most two Blues in a litter. A Blue
and a Tortoiseshell may be mated together if Creams are
desired and, again, a Blue and a Cream can be crossed for
the same purpose. You must run the risk, however, of
getting an oddity half blue and half cream, commonly called
Blue Tortoiseshell. These are useful for breeding Creams,
but they are not desirable for exhibition purposes. The ex-
periment of crossing Blues and Silvers cannot be said to be
satisfactory ; the blue tinge destroys the purity of the silver
tone and very often only light Smokes are the outcome
of such matings. These nondescript cats can find no
abiding-place in the Show pens for some judges call them
Smokes and others declare they can only be judged in the
" any other colour " class. Blues mated with Tabbies too
often result in Blue Tabbies or the sound solid colour of the
blue will be marred by markings. Two Brown Tabbies
almost invariably produce a Black in the litter. Very good
Brown Tabbies are bred from Tortoiseshells. There is no
doubt that Brown Tabbies are amongst the hardiest of long-
haired cats and they have more massive limbs and broader
skulls. Therefore, if stamina is desired, get some Brown
Tabby blood in your strains. A Silver Tabby weak in
markings may be crossed with a Black to bring out their
density. The great failing in this beautiful breed is too
often their blurred appearance and want of distinctness
in the tabby marks and this is frequently the result of
mating with a Silver. By the way, what a thing of beauty a
cat marked like a zebra would be ! Silver Tabbies should
not be mated with any other variety of Tabby. The Orange
or Red Tabby is an attractive cat though finely marked
specimens are scarce and, as is generally known, females of
this breed are much rarer than males. Breeders of Tabbies
should strive to eradicate white chins which are too much in
evidence. Silvers or Chinchillas have had all sorts of ex-
periments tried upon them but I think that in this breed, as
in Smokes, it is best to keep the purity of colour so beautiful
in the Silver and the white undercoat so desirable in the
Smoke Persians. In shorthaired breeds it will only be
necessary to draw attention to the Siamese, Manx and Blue

! I

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 57

as my remarks regarding the mating of Selfs and Tabbies
apply equally to the short- and to the long-haired breeds.
Siamese are a special breed to themselves and should be
kept as such and the same may be said of Manx and Blues.
All attempts to cross these cats with other breeds should be
discouraged.

It is the laudable ambition of all breeders to become
exhibitors, and certainly there is infinitely more honour and
glory in winning with a cat or kitten which one has bred
than with an animal that money has purchased. I have
given some hints in my paragraphs as to the best way of
preparing cats for exhibition. There is no doubt that cat
fanciers do not pay the same amount of attention to the speci-
mens they are intending to send to a show as do members of
the dog, rabbit or pigeon fancy. This is a pity, for condi-
tion goes so far to propitiate a judge, and a noted winner
with almost perfect points may fail to " catch the Speaker's
eye" if his coat is knotted and his tail draggled. We
generally speak of a Persian cat being out of condition when
it is not in good coat, and certainly I should advise such cats
being kept at home. There are so many shows held nowadays,
that if your puss is shedding her coat at the time of one
show, you may reasonably hope she may be in form for the
next.

A word about judging may be of interest. I find the
easiest and quickest way to set about making the awards in
a large class is to start by first marking the absent exhibits,
then placing a cross against those specimens that could not
come within the prize list. After this I search for my
winners, and having perhaps brought down the number to
about six or seven, I proceed to take the cats from their
pens, and if arrangements permit to have two out at a time,
so as to make comparisons. For this purpose, judging pens
are most useful. In Selfs it is soundness of colour that the
judge should first consider ; in Tabbies, the markings must
rank first ; in Silvers, according to the dictates of specialists
of this breed, paleness of colour is of paramount import-
ance. Some judges, however, will be guided by purity of
colour and the general shape of body, limbs and head, and
darker shadings and tabby markings will be secondary con-
siderations. The Blue and Silver classes are perhaps the

58 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

most difficult to judge, and also they are generally the
largest. The many specialist clubs have their standard of
points (as given in the concluding chapter), but a good judge
will bring his experience and his common sense to bear upon
the exhibits, and these definitions therefore are likely to be of
more service to fanciers, who should always aim at perfection,
though they may not attain to it. For the benefit of novices
in the fancy, let me say that, before showing a cat at any of
the large shows, the first step is to register it with the Club
under whose rules the show is held. At the present time the
National Cat Club and The Cat Club are at loggerheads
over the question of registration, but without entering further
into the matter, I would say that it is the earnest hope of all
fanciers that in the future one register should be kept.
The forms at present used by the respective clubs are here
reproduced. To any one with average intelligence the filling
in of these is not a difficult matter. If a schedule of the
show is not sent to you, apply to the secretary whose name
and address will be published in the cat papers. Then read
carefully the exhibition rules, and pay special attention to
the classification before filling up the entry form, which
together with the fee should be forwarded in good time to
the secretary. I have given several hints in my paragraphs
as to the best modes of packing the pussies both in cold and
hot weather, so I would only impress on fanciers to do all in
their power to mitigate the discomfort and risk which must
always attend a cat travelling alone to and from a show.

REGISTRATION

The Registration Rules of the National Cat Club are as
follows :

i. Every Cat exhibited at a show under National Cat Club Rules
must (except such as are exhibited exclusively in Local Classes, or
exhibited in Classes exclusively for litters of kittens), previous to the
tin^e of entry for such show, have been entered in a registry kept by
the National Cat Club at their offices. A charge of is. each shall
be made for registration. In such registry shall be inserted the
name and breed of the cat, and its breeder's name, the date of birth,
names of sire and dam, and of grand-sires and grand-dams, and if
the dam was served by two or more cats their several names must
be stated. If the age, pedigree or breeder's name be not known the
cat must be registered as breeder, age or pedigree "unknown," any

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 59

or all as the case may be. If the name of a cat be changed, or an
old name re-assumed, such cat must be again registered, and identi-
fied before exhibition in its altered name.

2. A name which has been duly registered in accordance with
Rule i cannot be again accepted for registration of a cat of the same
breed, without the addition of a distinguishing number, prefix or
affix, for a period of five years, calculated from the first day of the
year next after the one in which the name was last registered ; but
the name of a cat after publication in " Our Cats " and the Stud Book,
or which has become eligible for free entry therein cannot again be
assumed.

N.B. — The name of a cat that has become eligible for free entry
in the Stud Book in any year shall not be changed after the 3ist of
December of that year.

Cats do not receive a Number on registration. Numbers are only
assigned to Prize Winners, or cats entered in the Stud Book on its
publication, on payment of a fee of Five Shillings, in addition to
One Shilling for registration.

The application for Registration must be made on a form
as follows :

NUMBER OF BREED AS PER LIST IN MARGIN_ COLOUR

I wish to register the following Sex? by the name of

Previously registered by the name of

Signature of Owner

Mr. and Mrs. or Miss

Address

LATE OWNER (if any).

SIRE ,G. SIRE_

OWNER OF SIRE 1 G. DAM.

DAM jG. SIRE

OWNER OF DAM *• G. DAM

DATE OF BIRTH

NAME & ADDRESS OF BREEDER

NOTE. — If this name cannot be registered, I select one of the

following, and name them in the order named : (i)

(2) (3) .

6o

CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Only one Cat must be entered on one form, which must
be forwarded with a remittance of one shilling to Mrs.
A. Stennard Robinson, Hon. Sec., at 5, Great James Street,
Bedford Row, London, W.C.

The various varieties as recognised by the Club are as
follows :

SHORT-HAIRED CATS.

1. SIAMESE.

2. BLUE.

3. MANX.

4. FOREIGN.

5. TABBY.

6. SPOTTED.

7. BICOLOUR.

8. TRICOLOUR.

9. TORTOISESHELL.

10. BLACK.
n. WHITE.

12. SABLE.

13. TICKS.

14. ABYSSINIAN.

LONG-HAIRED CATS,

15. BLACK.

16. WHITE.

17. BLUE.

1 8. ORANGE.

19. CREAM.

20. SABLE.

21. SMOKE.

22. TABBY.

23. SPOTTED.

24. CHINCHILLA.

25. TORTOISESHELL.

26. BICOLOUR.

27. TRICOLOUR.

The Rules for Registration in the Cat Club are as
follows :

In the following Rules the word "CAT" shall be interpreted to
include domesticated Cats of both sexes and neuters, and the word
" KITTEN " shall be interpreted to include domesticated Kittens of
both sexes and neuters, five months old and under eight months old
on the first day of the show.

RULE i. — Every Cat and Kitten exhibited at a Show held under
The Cat Club Exhibition Rules must (except such as are exhibited
exclusively in local classes), previous to the time of entry for such
show, have been entered in the Register kept by The Cat Club for that
purpose alone. Registration in any other Club shall not be accepted. A
charge of sixpence shall be made for each Cat or Kitten registered.
In such Register shall be inserted the name, breed, and colour of
the Cat or Kitten, and its breeder's name, the date of birth, name
of sire and dam, and of grand-sire and grand-dam. If the age,
pedigree, or breeder's name be not known, the Cat or Kitten must be
registered as "age, breeder, or pedigree unknown " — any or all, as
the case may be.

If the name of a Cat or Kitten be changed, or an old name be re-
assumed, such a Cat or Kitten must be again registered and identi-
fied, before exhibition in its altered name, for which a fee of one
shilling shall be charged.

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 61

On change of ownership, the transfer of a Cat or Kitten must be
registered ; and no Cat or Kitten will be eligible for exhibition at
any show held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules until such
registration shall have been made, for which a fee of one shilling
shall be charged.

The Register shall be published every twelve months at least,
and at such prices and in such form as the committee may decide
upon from time to time.

Registration forms shall be supplied free of charge to breeders,
owners, and exhibitors of Cats and Kittens, and also to secretaries
and promoters of shows held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules.

RULE 2. — A name which has been duly registered in accordance
with Rule i cannot be again accepted for registration of a Cat or
Kitten of the same breed, without the addition of a distinguishing
prefix or affix.

RULE 3.— Any Cat or Kitten exhibited at a Show under The Cat
Club Exhibition Rules, must be the bond-fide property of the
Exhibitor in whose name it is entered, and must have been so
fourteen clear days before the first day of the show.

Each Cat or Kitten must, on the entry form, be clearly identified
in accordance with and as required in Rules i and 2 — save that the
names of the grandparents need not be stated — and on such entry
form must be a declaration, signed by the exhibitor, that the Cat or
Kitten is entered subject to The Cat Club Exhibition Rules.

RULE 4. — If the name of a Cat or Kitten which has won a prize
in a class in any Show held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules,
has been changed ; on entering the said Cat or Kitten for a show,
the exhibitor must, on the entry form, give the former name or
names, as well as the new name, until the change or changes have
been duly published in The Cat Club Stud Book.

The name of any Cat or Kitten, after publication in The Cat Club
Stud Book, or which has become eligible for entry therein, cannot
be changed.

RULE 5. — If a Cat or Kitten is owned by more than one person,
the names of all the owners must be given on the entry forms, and
on the registration, change of name, and change of owner forms ;
but only one fee shall be charged for each such entry, whatever the
number of owners may be.

RULE 6. — If a Cat or Kitten be entered, except as before directed
by Rules i, 2, 3, 4, and 5, such Cat or Kitten shall forfeit any prize
that may have been awarded ; and if the error be detected in time,
such Cat or Kitten shall not be allowed to compete, and shall, in
either case, forfeit all entrance fees and subscriptions — save that the
General Committee of The Cat Club may, on appeal to them, for
good cause shown, remit all or any part of the forfeits herein
mentioned.

Ill (continued)

• PRACTICAL HINTS ON BREEDING AND
EXHIBITING

Breeding and Mating

IN selecting a male cat for stud purposes, you should be
guided a great deal by the size of head and limbs. A good
sire for future generations should possess a massive, well-
formed body with broad head. Take especial notice of the
width between the ears, and beware of a long nose and face.
Very large and pointed ears are most undesirable. It also
spoils the appearance of the cat if the ears are very wide at
the base.

Siamese kittens are always white when born, and gradually
their ears, legs, tail, and face darken. The denser these
points become the more valuable arc the specimens. A
kink in the tail is considered a beauty. Blue eyes are very
essential. It is a pity that Siamese cats gradually lose the
beautiful pale fawn colour, and their coats darken as they
grow older. It is quite the exception to see a grown-up
Siamese light in body colour. Never try mating a Siamese
with any other breed. Experiments have been made in this
respect, but no good results have followed.

To novices in the Silver fancy, let me say that they must
not be disappointed if after sending their queen to a noted
Silver stud, she should produce what appear like very datk
smoke, or almost black kittens. These will become lighter

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 63

every day, and it is often the darkest kittens that turn out
the palest Silvers.

The days of pussy's gestation are about sixty-three, but I
generally find it is best to calculate for three days extra, this
being counted from the last day of mating. It is always
safer after the queen has been on a visit to keep her shut
up for a few days.

Do not worry if your queens refuse to feed during the
time they are mating. When quieted down puss will make
up for lost time.

If you have a stud cat and receive queens, it is always
courteous and kind to write a line to the sender immediately
on the arrival of the traveller. Tnus the anxious mind of
the owner is set at rest. Then you should give due notice
of the time of train by which you are returning the visitor.
Avoid despatching a cat on a Saturday.

I am not much in favour of mating Blues and Silvers
together, as this cross frequently results in Silver Smokes, a
sort of nondescript cat that finds no abiding class at our
shows, and is also rather an unsatisfactory cat from which to
breed.

In selecting a stud cat we should consider the points of
our queens. It is not always the greatest prize-winner that
is the most desirable mate for a particular female. We
must pair them according to the good points in one and the
defects in the other, and thus we may gain the happy
medium. If your queen is wanting in breadth of skull and
shortness of face, try to remedy and counterbalance these
defects by finding a stud cat with these points strongly
developed. Two prize-winning cats may not produce even
average good kittens.

Of all the breeds of long-haired cats, brown Tabbies may
be said to be the strongest. This handsome breed seems
coming to the fore. Certainly to a novice in the fancy
brown Tabbies are less trouble, by reason of their hardy

64 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

natures. Two brown Tabbies mated together often produce
a black in the litter, and generally a very good specimen.

Do not let your queens mate before they are nine months
old, and it is better to wait another three months if possible.
I do not think sufficient attention is paid to the desirability
of stud cats and queens being in good coat at the time of
mating.

It is considered the correct thing to forward your fee for
mating at the same time you send your queen. The usual
rule in catty circles is to allow a second visit should the first
prove unsuccessful, but this cannot be insisted upon, and
therefore it is better for the sender to ask if this courtesy
will be permitted when writing to announce the despatch of
the queen.

I have often been asked if I consider that the litters of a
Persian queen who has mismated previously with a common
cat are in any way affected afterwards. I believe this ques-
tion has never been satisfactorily answered, but I know a
case in point, and certainly these kittens of a good Persian
sire and dam are remarkably poor specimens and are what
might be called half-breds. I can only attribute this to the
blue female having twice strayed from the paths of virtue
previous to the attentions of the prize-winning Persian.

If you are purchasing a self-coloured cat, be careful to
examine whether it has a white spot or tuft of white hairs on
throat or stomach. This is a decided blemish, and repeats
itself in future generations. Our best judges consider a
white spot should count as a point against a cat entered in
a sett-coloured class. This is much fairer to both exhibitor
and judge than to relegate a good Blue or Black with the
few offending white hairs to the " any other colour class."

One of the most difficult cats to breed is a pale Cream,
uniform in colour, and having no markings on head and
legs. A Tortoiseshell and a Blue often produce good
Creams.

Mrs. W. Vidal's Orange Persian Male
•' Torrington Sunnysides "

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 65

Do not mate tabby-marked cats with self-coloured ones.
For instance, a blue Persian queen should be sent to a stud
cat of her own colour, or to a Black, not to a brown or
orange Tabby. Breeders have lately been crossing Blues
with Chinchillas, or Silvers, and some good results have
followed, but this should not be attempted if the Silver is at
all heavily marked with stripes. In this case the litter
might consist of blue Tabbies, and although these are
pretty cats for pets, they are useless for breeding or show
purposes.

I have always considered that the mating of a good amber-
eyed Black queen with a pale Blue male is most satisfactory
in results. I have seen several examples. In one litter two
almost perfect blues and two black, in the other, one blue
gem and three blacks. The blues were particularly sound
in colour and had the round orange eyes, which are so
attractive in black cats.

It is not always that the best blue-eyed Whites or orange-
eyed Blues are bred from parents who are both possessed of
these desirable points, so don't distress yourself if you have
an odd-eyed White queen, but send her to a good blue-eyed
White stud, and some in your litter may yet have the
coi rect-coloured eyes.

It is very seldom, if ever, that a Blue stud cat retains the
deep tones of orange or yellow in his eyes. These get
lighter with age and service. This fact does not, however,
affect the progeny. Orange eyes are rarer in Blue cats of a
pale tint than in those of darker colour, and it is more
difficult to obtain absolute soundness of colour in light
Blues than in those of a medium shade.

In order to obtain the nice rich tawny colour so desirable
in brown Tabbies, one is tempted to try mating with an
Orange. I have found, however, that the experiment has
resulted in a description of tortoiseshell Tabby which is no
good for breeding or showing purposes. If your Tabby
queen is rather drab in tone, select a good sire of the
golden brown order, and you will be rewarded.

E

66 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

I would never recommend fanciers to try and breed from
a queen that has confirmed snuffles. There is no doubt
that the kittens are affected by this complaint in the mother,
and are weak and ailing. Snuffles can doubtless be cured
in young cats, but when this distressing disease has been of
long standing, it is really hopeless.

A good tortoiseshell female Persian is a splendid invest-
ment, but care should be taken to obtain a really fine
specimen. There are several cats called tortoiseshell,
which are really tortoiseshell Tabbies, others that have
streaks of colour running into each other. A good Tor-
toiseshell is a combination of red, yellow, and black
patches, without any white. A Tortoiseshell queen can be
mated with advantage to a^ost any coloured sire, and her
litters may, and probably will, be very varied. I think that
even the rising generation in the cat world know how rare
a thing is a Tortoiseshell Tom !

It is f ilse economy to purchase cheap and indifferent
queens, if you intend to go in for breeding and exhibiting.
1 am inclined to think that more depends on the quality of
the dam than the sire. Certain it is that the kittens more
frequently take after their mother as regards colour. A
Black female mated to a Blue stud seldom has more than
one like the father, and I have frequently known the whole
litter to be of the mother's dusky hue.

It is always advisable before sending your queen to mate
to find out the pedigree of the stud she is to visit, so that
in-breeding may be avoided. I am not against one mating
of father and daughter, or mother and son, for I have known
excellent results from this arrangement, but the experiment
must not be repeated. Avoid entirely the mating of brothers
with sisters.

If your young queen has shown signs of wanting to mate
more than twice, do not keep her back again, although she
may be under a year old.

Any one possessing a well marked silver tabby Persian

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 67

female ought to make a point of mating her with a silver
Tabby male, avoiding Chinchillas and shaded Silvers, as
such a cross weakens the markings, and kittens of the
<k wrong class " and " no class " descriptions are the result.
There is certainly an opening for breeders of silver Tabbies.

It is a great mistake to breed Smokes with Blues, as in this
case you lose the lovely white undercoat which is the chief
glory of this handsome breed. Like to like should be the
order of the day as regards Smokes.

Regarding the mating of Blues I would advise you to
study soundness of colour in the first place, then shape
of head. I like a massive frame in a male cat, with plenty
of breadth and bone.

It is a great mistake to allow your male cat to mate until
he is a year old. If he is used at stud earlier he will pro-
bably fail you later on.

In announcing the despatch of a queen on a visit to a
stud cat be careful to write very distinctly. A hamper
containing a lady visitor recently reached me, and I discovered
a letter enclosed, but I could only make a vague guess at
the signature, and the rather lengthy address was still more
unintelligible.

Some cat fanciers imagine that the number of kittens in a
litter depends on the length of time the queen remains with
the stud. This is an erroneous idea. Nor do I believe in
colour feeding in regard to cats and their offspring.

Some queens are of such a timid nature that the very
fact of sending them by rail to a strange place will com-
pletely upset them, and the visit will have no satisfactory
results. In such cases it may be best to try and come to
some arrangement with the owner of the stud, and perhaps
for the consideration of a kitten in addition to the fee, the
male cat may be lent for a few days.

I think I am right in stating that as regards registering

68 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

visits and births in the cat papers, it is the owner of the
stud cat who sends the notice of the visit and the proprietor
of the queen that announces the arrival of the family. It is
just as well to have some such rule amongst fanciers, other-
wise, as is sometimes the case, a duplicate advertisement
appears in the same column.

When your queen returns from visiting a stud cat, it is
well to keep her shut up safely for a few days. Cats are
often very restless after their return home, and the impres-
sion is orten given that the visit has been fruitless. It is
generally at the end of a month that one is able to judge
whether puss is intending to present us with a family or not.

I do not approve of specials being offered in the form of
free visits to stud cats. This savours too much of seif-
advertisement, and does not certainly incur much sacrifice.

Try and avoid sending your queens away to mate on a
Saturday, in case of delays, as poor puss may spend her
Sabbath at a railway station.

It is well to keep a register of all the queens visiting your
stud cats, filling in the date of arrival and departure. Such
a record often comes in useful when wishing to purchase a
kitten of a particular strain, or in answering inquiries from
fanciers.

Senders of queens to stud cats should attach a label
inside the hamper or box, stating the name and address
of the owner, for should two or three visitors arrive in the
same day, there is a fear of complication amongst the cats
and their travelling trunks.

Shows and Exhibiting

If many cats are kept, and some are sent to shows, do
not let these, on their return, mix with the others who have
remained at home. It is a wise precaution to keep them
apart for some days.

Miss Winifred Beale's Champion Cream
"Romaldkirk Admiral"

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 69

If you are allowed to provide your pussies with cushions
at a Show, let the neck ribbon correspond in colour, as this
will have a better effect. I recommend flannelette in pre-
ference to more costly materials. It is warmer and not so
slippery as silk or sateen. Some exhibitors aie able to
afford velvet !

Exhibitors will find little slip rings convenient to put on
metal tallies provided for the cats' necks at shows.

In sending your pussies to the show, if you pack them in
hampers, whether lined or unlined, wrap the hamper in a
large sheet of brown paper, leaving only a square space un-
covered at the top round the handle. Fasten securely. If
you padlock the box, don't forget to send the key to the
secretary !

It is as well that exhibitors should understand that the
labels and tallies sent by the show secretary are in them-
selves an acknowledgment of the money received for entries.
Some impatient and unreasonable exhibitors write to the
show secretary requesting their labels, &c., before the
advertised time of closing entries. How would it be possible
to place the pen number on the labels when all the entries
had not been received ?

Margarine baskets are cheap and handy for cats to travel
in; but when they are sent to shows exhibitors should
attach some straps, as in the hurry of packing up the
pussies it is not easy to have recourse to a packing-needle
and string.

It is the custom for exhibitors to delay forwarding their
entries till just before the lists are closed. This unfortunate
habit entails much extra worry for the show secretary, and
causes a desperate rush at the last.

I would like to impress upon exhibitors the importance of
writing very distinctly when rilling in their entries for shows.
This hint especially applies to the names of the cats, some

70 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

of which are often of an out of-the-way character, and cannot
even be guessed at.

I would most earnestly impress upon exhibitors the
necessity of writing distinctly their full address on the
reverse side of the labels supplied for the return journey by
the show authorities. Try by every means in your power to
lessen the risks and discomforts for your pussies during
their transit to and from the shows.

When by any chance labels are not received in time to be
used by exhibitors, or they are lost, then the hamper should
be addressed to the secretary of the show, and a note of
explanation enclosed. The entry form can then be looked
up, and the pen number discovered.

Of course, if possible, it is always best to accompany your
pussies to a show, but if you are unable to do this, tnen it
is very important you should ensure each hamper of live
stock. Do not use straps which are detached from the box
or hamper, as these are so apt to get mislaid or lost.

If you make up your mind to enter yo«r puss and kits in
a litter class send the whole family, as in judging a litter
class quantity, with a due regard to quality, has to be con-
sidered. Thus, a litter of five very fairly good and level
kittens ought to score over a family of three, though these
may be possessed of better points. It is, therefore, advis-
able to always send the whole litter, not to pick and choose.

If you are the owner of White cats and take them to a
show, I strongly advise you to see that the pens are
thoroughly well rubbed down before you pen your pussies.

It is not well to give your cats a heavy meal before start-
ing them for a show. Hope and trust that they may have
something given to them when they are penned.

Need I say, never make any attempt at " faking " your
cats when sending them to shows. It is a risk, as well as a
most undesirable operation.

Miss Kate Sangster's Champion
" Royal Yum Yum "

Ameryt photo, Portsmouth

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 71

In sending specials for shows, be sure and state if they
are for cats or kittens. For instance ; " For the best Blue
Male Cat " will mean that your prize will be awarded in the
Cat Class, and only supposing a kitten were entered in
that class, could it compete for your special. If you wish
it to go to a kitten then don't omit to specify this. The
limit age for kittens varies at shows, sometimes under eight
months, and sometimes under six months.

A very good way of cleaning your cats previous to show-
ing is to heat a good quantity of bran in the oven. Put it
into a large bowl or foot-bath, and stand your puss in it.
Rub the hot bran well amongst her fur for some minutes,
and afterwards carefully brush it out. It is wonderful how
soft and silky this process makes the coat. I do not advo-
cate washing cats, even in summer weather, and certainly
not in the winter.

When there is a class for pairs of kittens provided at a
show, the two exhibits need not necessarily be of the same
litter, but remember they are judged as a pair, so let their
size and appearance be as alike as possible. It is no use
to enter two kittens of different colours in a pair class.

When prize-money is sent to the winning exhibitors, they
should acknowledge the sum to the show secretary, and
don't forget to thank the donors of specials. The addresses
are generally to be found in the catalogue index, or the
secretary, if written to (with stamp for reply), will give the
information required.

If your cats are not in good condition do not send them
to shows. There is but one place for cats out of coat, and
that is at home !

When cats are entered for shows in joint names it is
advisable and desirable that the owners should let the
secretary know to whom to send the labels and tallies. It
is sometimes only possible to forward these a day or two
before the show, and, if sent to the address of the owner

72 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

who does not keep the cat, complications may arise from the
delay.

It is always very important thoroughly to air and disinfect
all hampers coming from a show. I place my pussy's
travelling boxes or hampers outside for two or three days
and nights, and let the sun, air and rain cleanse and purify
them. Then I have them washed over with some dis-
infectant and water.

As regards pairs of kittens, which next to the litter class
is, perhaps, the most difficult to judge, I would say, select
two kittens as near alike as possible in colour, size and
quality. It is as a pair that the awards should be given,
and if one exhibit is much superior to its fellow, then the
value of the pair is seriously diminished. If your kittens
are different in colour and variety, say an Orange and a
Tabby, then do not enter them in a pair class, but as single
kittens, and they will stand a better chance.

I have noticed that many of our best show cats appear
almost perfect in all points, save and except the ears, and
these are wide at the base, tall and pointed. They should
be just the opposite. Therefore if your queen has promi-
nent ears, try to find a mate for her with these organs not
in evidence. Ear tufts are great beautifiers.

Let me suggest to all winners of medals at shows that
they should have them engraved with the name of their cat,
the date of the show, and the place where the show was
held. I think it is a pity that clubs do not undertake to
have these inscriptions engraved, as they would greatly
enhance the value of the prizes.

If your cat is timid and you want to exhibit him, I should
advise you to obtain some pen or hutch and coax and
encourage him to come up to the bars. In this way you
will educate him to place himself in evidence instead of
crouching at the back of the pen, and thus running the risk
of being overlooked by the judge. Besides we all like our

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 73

pets to show themselves off to the general public on these
auspicious occasions.

I think it is only catty etiquette if one wins special prizes
at one show that one should offer them for some other
show. But not the same articles be it understood !

The tendency nowadays is to lower the standard of
special prizes, and really some of the articles on show are
often of very cheap manufacture. If a thing is worth doing,
it is worth doing well.

If you consider an injustice has been done to you or
your cat at a show you have a perfect right to lay your
complaint before the Commktee of the Club under whose
rules the show is held. Then your case will be looked
into.

There are two distinct ways of finding out from a judge
why your cat did not take a prize, viz., a nice way and a
nasty way. I am sure all judges are pleased to give infor-
mation to exhibitors for their satisfaction ai.d profit if their
inquiries are couched in courteous and reasonable terms.
It is not pleasant to be attacked suddenly with this ques-
tion, "Why have you not given my cat a prize? "

In calculating the age of a kitten when entering for exhi-
bition the dates of the month and not the weeks should be
taken. Thus from the 2Oth of July till 20th of October is
three months.

It is very hard when you have entered your cat for a
Show to find she is " wrong classed." If you are a novice
in the fancy write and ask some reliable person, giving a
full description of your puss, and ask advice as to the
correct class to place her.

Certainly it is better to run a chance of starving your cat
in the show pen rather than stuffing her. You can feed up
your pet on her return home, and in a day or two she will be
as plump as ever, but it is a different matter to remedy the

74 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

ill effects of constipation, diarrhoea, and other troubles con-
sequent on heavy feeding in close quarters.

Don't worry the secretary of a show with lots of ques-
tions, but read the rules and regulations set forth in the
schedule with care and attention. They are always very
comprehensive.

Special prizes call for special acknowledgment, and
winners of the same should write and thank the donors. The
secretary of the club giving the show should be addressed on
receipt of a club badge or medal.

In sending your cats to shows it is a great help to the
executive if you so arrange the label that it may be easily
turned round and the address appear uppermost for the
return journey. When you use a box, try and attach the
label securely to a strap or fastening. Do not nail it down
to the lid.

If you intend to fetch away your exhibits yourself on the
morning after the show, be careful to write " To be called
for," on reverse side of label.

Pink collar ribbons are the most becoming to Blue kittens
until their eyes have changed, then orange or yellow will be
found more suitable.

It is a mistake to tie very broad ribbons round your cats'
necks when sending them to a show. I should choose a
colour to match the eyes, about half an inch to three quarters
in width. Tie it in a neat bow, and give a stitch in the
centre, to prevent it coming untied. Don't leave two long
ends. Orange is the most becoming colour for Blue cats.

It is a good plan to give your cat a gentle aperient on its
return from a show. If a grown cat then half a Carter's
little liver pill may be given with safety, and a smaller
quantity for a kitten. It is, however, the elderly cats that
have the greatest objection to the scant accommodntion
provided by the scratchings of earth at the back of the pen

BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 75

They will persistently await their return to the old familiar pan
of earth or sawdust that they have been accustomed to. A
clever cat fancier has told me that she gives her cats return-
ing from a show a few drops of whisky in a spoonful of hot
water. She says it " sort of cheers them up ! "

Nothing is so vexatious as when your puss starts scratching
out her lovely ruff just a week or so before the show for
which you have entered her. Have a look to her ears, for
the irritation may be there, and a little Condy and water
and boracic powder will soon set matters right.

I do not think that cat fanciers pay sufficient attention to
the condition of their cats when sending them to shows.
The most successful exhibitors are those whose cats have
been shown in the best condition. Extra attention ought to
be paid to the feeding, exercising, and grooming of our pets.
I do not advocate washing cats, but a bran bath or a good
rubbing with white fuller's earth will greatly improve the
fur.

A defective eye, or a damaged tail, would count against a
cat in the show pen, and therefore I should advise exhibitors
to keep these blemished pussies at home.

It is very necessary for show secretaries to state the entries
close on a certain date, but still this date is often of an
elastic nature, and it is always worth while for an intending
exhibitor to write requesting that, if possible, their entry may
be received, although it is forwarded after the advertised
date.

The prize cards are placed in the hampers when sent back
to exhibitors. If these are soiled or broken on their arrival
write to the secretary asking for fresh ones to be kindly
forwarded.

The metal tallies sent for the cats at show time will hang
much more gracefully round the neck if a slip ring, such as
is used for fastening on buttons, is run through the hole of
the tally and then the ribbon is put through the ring. Let

76 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

me advise narrow ribbon, or if a broad bow is thought more
stylish fold the ribbon half the width round the neck and
then tie. In this way pussie's ruff will not be interfered
with.

Many exhibitors are not aware that by paying an extra
shilling they can obtain a double pen for their cats at shows.
Of course if space in the hall or tent is limited this provision
cannot be always arranged for.

It is very necessary to make positively sure of the sex of
your kittens before sending to a show, also previous to dis-
posing of them. A purchaser, who is a novice, desiring a
male, and discovering only on the arrival of a family of
" gutter " kits, that a mistake has been made, is naturally
rather annoyed.

No doubt a one day's show is best for cats and kittens ;
but if you send your pets to a two days' show, I do not think
it is advisable to remove them at night. You run a risk of
exposing them to cold, and the carrying to and fro is really
more trying for pussy than being in her pen; and if you
know that she will be covered up at night, then probably
your pet will sleep comfortably and forget her troubles.

In former days there used to be classes at our shows in
which cats were judged according to their weight, and no
matter what points the cat possessed or did not possess, the
heaviest took the prize. The most weighty cat I ever
handled turned the scale at 20 Ibs. I do not think, how-
ever, that our pets should be fattened up like prize pigs for
shows, and, therefore, these weight classes have been wisely
done away with.

IV
DISEASES AND REMEDIES

THERE is a tradition that cats have nine lives, but many a
breeder of Persians will agree with me that the diseases to
which these highly bred cats may quickly succumb are more
than nine in number ! I do not intend to enter fully into
these ailments in this chapter, as I have given a number of
hints in the paragraphs, and have also appended a list of
simple remedies for the usual diseases that pussy's flesh is
heir to. I think the mistake in many of our cat manuals is
the too technical nature of the prescriptions. Then again,
many of the ingredients mentioned cannot be procured by
an ordinary mortal without a doctor's order. I have tried,
therefore, to suggest only the very simplest remedies, many
of which are generally available in every household, and
ought certainly to be within reach of every cat fancier. The
preparations of Mr. Ward and Salvo that I have recom-
mended I have had practical proof of as to their excellence in
cases coming under my own notice. Mr. Ward may rightly
be considered the wizard of the north, for he was the pioneer
of " practical pussyology " apart from the regular qualified
veterinary who may look with a kind and pitying eye on
cats' ailments and infirmities, but yet who is just a little
superior to the treatment of these too often despised animals.
Salvo came as a boon and a blessing into our southern dis-
tricts, and I am sure there are many cat fanciers who can
testify to the kind and clever way in which he has attended to
and prescribed for their sick pussies. To him I am indebted
for some valuable hints and useful prescriptions. Mr. Freeman

78 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

of Birmingham and Mr. James of Cheltenham are well
known in the catty world, and supply remedies for every
ailment. Sometimes I have found that the preparation of
one veterinary will have no effect on a cat, whereas another
of a different firm will have the desired result. We should
always bear in mind that our cats are variously constituted,
and we must use patience and perseverance. There are
some serious and dangerous diseases amongst cats for which
no simple remedy can be given with any satisfactory result.
I would mention Gastritis, Enteritis, Bronchitis, Inflamma-
tion and Congestion of the Lungs, Distemper and Influenza.
Now there is no doubt that in these complaints the only hope
is for the case to be taken in time by a thoroughly reliable
person. The difficulty that the ordinary fancier has to con-
tend with is to discover what really is the matter with their
cat, and if an attempt is made to doctor and dose a case
without sufficient knowledge, serious results may follow.
Too often fanciers set down every evil under the sun to
worms. It seems to me, therefore, that what is really
required is a clear and lucid description of the symptoms of
these dangerous diseases, so that people can form some idea in
the early stages of the nature of their cats' illness. If they are
able to arrive at some conclusion, the best course to pursue is
to wire to either Mr. Ward, Salvo, Freeman, James, or other
competent person, and ask for medicine to be forwarded at
once for such or such complaint. Let us, therefore, give
the usual symptoms of a few of what may be called dangerous
complaints. Gastritis, or inflammation of the stomach, has
unhappily raged amongst our cats, and many a time fanciers
have rapidly come to the conclusion that their pets had
been wilfully poisoned. Truly, the symptoms are almost
identical. The animal is sick; there is high fever, great
thirst, a desire for drink, and yet sometimes a disinclination
to take it ; for the poor creature will sit with its head over
a bowl of water for hours. He will stretch himself on his
stomach, preferring a cold flat surface to any soft comfort-
able bed we may prepare; and a total loss of appetite
is accompanied very often with violent diarrhoea. It is
worse than useless to attempt to feed, especially with
anything solid. Enteritis, or inflammation of the bowels,
is akin to gabtrilis, and the symptoms are much the same.

Lady Alexander's Short-haired Blue Champion
" Ballochmyle Brother Bump "

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 79

In both cases the stomach becomes distended and is
painful to the touch. In bronchitis there is more or
less fever, the nose and ears being hot, sometimes fits
of shivering, the breathing is quick, and frequently the
animal has a bad cough. There is often a frothy mucous
discharge. When the inflammation of the bronchial tubes
extends downwards to the lungs the danger becomes greater,
the breathing still more laboured, and inflammation super-
venes. In some cases of congestion and inflammation it is
extremely difficult to discover what is the matter with your
cat, for he is only very quiet and languid, and all the spirit
seems taken out of him ; his eyes are dull and mournful
looking, and his coat rough and staring, Influenza has of
late years made great ravages amongst our cats. This is a
sort of catarrhal fever which produces great debility, vomit-
ing, and sneezing, and a profuse discharge from the nose
and eyes.

At first this is watery, but later the discharge becomes
thick and yellow and the passages seem to be entirely
stopped up, the animal breathing with great difficulty. The
symptoms are much the same as in distemper and the two
complaints are often mistaken the one for the other. In
both the high fever is what is so difficult to battle against,
and both diseases are contagious or infectious either by the
medium of positive contact or through the air itself. In
distemper there is a peculiar and distressing odour which is
unmistakable. In my paragraphs I frequently allude to the
symptoms which should lead one to suspect worms in our
cats. I may say that an offensive breath is nearly always
an accompaniment of worms.

It is most necessary, after a cat or kitten has been suffering
from a trying illness, such as influenza or distemper, to
build up the constitution again. I have used Animal
Kreochyle (liquid meat) with very good results. It can be
given without any fear to the most delicate animal, as it is
the juice of the meat extracted without the process of
boiling, so that it is speedily digested. This liquid meat
should be given first thing in the morning, followed by a
teaspoonful at midday and again in the evening. For very
young kittens add a little warm water. I find my pussies
delight in this preparation, and I am sure that cat fanciers

8o CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

in search of a pick-me-up for their pets cannot do better
than give " Kreochyle " a trial.

In conclusion, I can with all confidence recommend not
only those medicines which I mention but many other pre-
parations carefully prepared by the advertisers in my book.
The feline world is fortunate in having two such able and
really cat-loving men as Mr. Ward and Salvo to turn to in
their days of doubt, difficulty, and distress. Let me, how-
ever, impress upon all cat fanciers that delays are dangerous
and that a stitch in time may save nine — cats or kits !

A LIST OF SIMPLE REMEDIES

Bronchitis. — A few drops of eucalyptus oil in a jug of
boiling water. Let the cat inhale over it frequently.

Canker. — Salvo's Canker Cure.

Constipation. — Freeman's Aperient Capsules. Sweet oil
for kittens.

Debility. — James No. i Magical Powders. Animal Kreo-
chyle.

Diarrhoea. — Sprinkle a pinch of dry arrowroot or prepared
chalk on the food once a day.

Dysentry. — Ward's Capsules.

Fits. — Place the cat in a bath of hot water up to the neck.
Apply cold rags or sponge to the head. Administer two
grains of bromide of potassium for cat ; one grain for kitten.

Fleas. — Mothaline rubbed into the coat frequently.

Jaundice. — Half grain of calomel daily for a cat.

Mange. — Advisable to put the animal painlessly to death.

Paralysis or Weak Limbs. — Lime water half a teaspoon-
ful in milk or broth given frequently.

Ringworm or Black Eczema. — Ward's Lotion.

Scurvy Spots. — Equal quantities of vaseline and sulphur
rubbed on for three consecutive days. Then use a tooth-comb.

Sickness. — Carbonate of bismuth ; three grains for a cat,
one grain for a kitten.

Snuffles.— Salvo's Snuffle Cure.

Tape Worm. — Salvo's No. 3 powder.

Teething. — Ward's Teething Powders.

Worms in Kittens. — Salvo's No. i powder. Freeman's
Capsules.

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 81

Gastritis

No cat fancier should ever be without a small quantity of
bismuth powder. It is an excellent and very safe remedy
for many of the ills that feline flesh is heir to. We have had
it highly recommended in cases of gastro-enteritis. Directly
a puss refuses her food and persistently turns away from her
most cherished dish of raw meat or other delicacy, then
administer a good dose of bismuth, as much as would lie on
a threepenny piece the first day, and reduce the dose each
day afterwards. Don't force food down for the first twenty-
four hours. Then start with Brand's essence or Animal
Kreochyle, a little at a time, given often.

If your cat is attacked with that painful and very often
fatal complaint, known as gastritis, or inflammation of the
stomach, do not attempt to give your pet any solid food.
The symptoms of gastritis are very similar to those produced
by some irritant poison. The animal will always crave for
cold water, which should be constantly supplied.

Influenza

If your cat should fall a victim to a bad cold or an attack
of influenza, you will no doubt find that its poor nose
becomes quite stuffed up. Let me advise you to keep con-
stantly applying lanoline, rubbing it well across and down
the nose. It is wonderful how his treatment will give relief.
Should you not have lanoline at hand, use butter, provided it
has no salt in it. The result will be the same, and the more
your puss rubs her nose with her paw and sneezes, the better
it will be for her.

Colds

For any ordinary cold in a cat give small doses of aconite.
Feed with beef tea and keep very warm. If there is fever
and constipation, give half a Carter's liver pill.

F

82 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Fleas

"Prevention is better than cure," and in young kittens,
cure is often next to impossible, so that a watchful eye is very
necessary. Be careful not to allow fleas to accumulate in
the tiny mites, for these tiresome creatures give the young-
sters no rest, and as the greater part of the early life of a
kitten should be spent in eating and sleeping, it is most im-
portant to have recourse to " Mothaline " to exterminate these
pests from time to time.

I was asked the other day for a remedy for parasites in
kittens, and recommended Mr. Ward's powder. I hear it
is acting like magic, and the pair of insect bellows supplied
with it are a splendid invention which should be in the
possession of all cat fanciers.

Anaemia

If you notice that your cat's mouth, nose, and tongue are
rather white, give some iron. The easiest and most effec-
tive way to administer this drug is by pills. Purchase a
bottle of Blaud's iron pills, rniid form, and for a cat I gene-
rally give half a pill once a day. If this treatment is
regularly continued for a month you will see a great change
in the colour of your pussie's mouth, which should be a nice
deep pink if she is in perfect health. If your cat's tongue
is yellow give an aperient.

Worms

The truth of the following extract from an American
paper cannot be too frequently impressed on the minds of
fanciers : ** The worm has but little chance in the healthy
stomach of a cat." So build up the constitution of your
puss that she can resist the ravages of these pests.

Most cat fanciers know too well the symptoms which are
suggestive of worms in their cats, but ior the benefit of

Mrs. Robinson's Siamese "Champion Wankee "

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 83

beginners I would tell them to be suspicious when they
find their pussies have ravenous appetites and yet seem to
be none the better or fatter for their food. Again, the
appearance of the coat is very tell-tale, the fur is " spiky "
instead of fleecy and fluffy, and I have found no surer sign
of worms than when the corners of the eyes come up in a
sort of white skins. This betokens tapeworms, which are
really even more serious than wire-worms.

A pinch of salt in pussy's food is an excellent thing. I
believe it is a preventive against worms, and it is good for
the blood. Be careful, however, not to give too much, as
this would cause skin trouble, and when a cat is in kitten
extra care should be taken, as I have known a too lavish
use of salt under such circumstances bring on a miscarriage.

If it is necessary to administer a dose for worms to your
cat, do not give an aperient at the same time. Wait about
an hour, and then the vermifuge will have done its work,
and the aperient will cause evacuation of the worms. It is
generally considered a bad sign if these pests are vomited,
and denotes the presence of still more to be got rid of.

A very common cause of worms in cats is eating decom-
posed food. There are three kinds of worms — the small
thread worm, which resembles a piece of crochet cotton, the
long round worm, and the tapeworm. It is the last named
that works most serious havoc.

There are several remedies for worms to be obtained of
the leading veterinaries and cat specialists, but I am greatly
against the " worming " of young kittens. It stunts their
growth and interferes with their digestive powers. If
delicate kittens are dosed, it sometimes finishes them off. I
recommend all fanciers so to feed and nourish their young
kits that they can have strength enough to resist these pests,
which are more or less present in every animal. It is just a
matter whether the worms or the creatures are the stronger.

It is always a bad sign if a cat or kitten in being sick
brings up a worm. You may be very certain that there are

84 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

lots to follow, so it would be best to start a course ol
powders at once. Delays are dangerous, especially as
regards doctoring such sensitive creatures as Persian kittens.

After worming a cat or kitten it is very important to give
the digestive organs a rest, and for this purpose a course of
powders, such as are supplied by Salvo, will be found very
beneficial.

A very sure sign of worms in a kitten is a prominent
backbone with an inflated stomach. You may think your
puss is nice and fat, but the size of its body is the result of
indigestion and flatulency.

If you suspect your cat to be afflicted with tapeworm, I
should recommend you to hand her over to some careful
and clever veterinary. The only hope of expelling these
pests is by administering either areca nut or oil of male
fern, and these powerful medicines need most judicious
handling. It is most important, and indeed essential, that
the head of the tapeworm should be expelled. The rest of
the creature comes away in sections.

It is a sure sign of indigestion probably due to the
presence of worms if you find a sort of scale coming partly
over the eyes of your cat. I have known novices in the
fancy to imagine that in this case there is something wrong
with the eye itself, and lotions have been supplied. It is,
however, entirely caused by internal disarrangement, and
your puss requires a course of treatment. Nothing gives a
cat a more disagreeable appearance than this ugly film over a
portion of the eye.

Some fanciers are under the delusion that castor oil is a
universal cure for all ills, and they dose their cats accord-
ingly. I have known this nasty stuff given for worms.
Believe me, the worms thrive the more on it, and the result
is upsetting poor pussie and causing her great discomfort.

Freeman's capsules for worms are the very smallest I have
seen. They are so easily given, and are prepared for cats

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 85

and kittens. I have found them excellent, and always
follow them up with an aperient capsule of the same minute
size, supplied by the same firm.

Weak Eyes

Bad eyes in kittens are frequently caused by worms or
weakness. For which cases outward application of lotions
is of small avail, and we must give strengthening medicines.
Try a course of cod-liver oil, and administer in capsules.

To apply a lotion the eyelids should be held open, and
the liquid dropped on to the centre of the eyeball, so that
the eye is quite filled. It is best to use an eye-dropper, or
a fountain pen filler. Another method is to saturate cotton
wool and squeeze it.

It is best to keep tiny kittens in a darkened place until
their eyes are well open. Strong sun and bright artificial
light tend to weaken the eyes, caus;ng them to water.

A very good remedy for sore eyes in kittens is an appli-
cation of alum and water. Put about a teaspoonful of alum
into a claret wine-glass of tepid water and bathe frequently.
Never allow the eyelids to become glued together, as it is
then that inflammation sets in.

The complaint known as " pink eye " is seldom curable,
and the disease generally destroys the sight in a kitten. It
is best to destroy the poor little sufferer, as the torture must
be very great.

It is not a good sign if kittens are born with their eyes
open, or if they open within the first six days This gene-
rally means trouble in after-life.

No doubt many of the eye lotions advertised are of great
benefit to suffering kits, but in some cases every remedy
seems to fail, and then, I say, try a sun bath and a dose of
fresh air. In other words, don't coddle up your patients,
but put them out in the garden. An empty box, with some

86 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

wire netting, makes a capital hutch. Place this in a sheltered
and sunny spot and you will find a marked improvement in
your kittens' eyes.

A capital lotion to have in readiness for weak eyes in
kittens can be made by putting one ounce of boracic acid
powder in a pint of boiling water. Put this in a bottle when
cold, and when needed mix again about one ounce to one
ounce of tepid water.

The following is a simple and excellent prescription for an
eye lotion : Boracic Acid, 30 grains ; Cherry Laurel Water,
6 ounces. Bathe the eyes twice daily.

Very soft old linen rags or cotton-wool are best for apply-
ing lotion to kittens' eyes. Be careful not to use the same
piece twice over. Always bathe the eyes first with tepid
water before using any lotion, which should be applied very
carefully and gently.

An easy and effectual way of dropping lotion into a
kitten's eye, is to saturate a piece of cotton wool and then
squeeze it. It is always difficult with a spoon, however
small, to avoid letting it pour instead of drop into the eye.

Don't forget that a little sweet oil applied to the eyelids of
your kits prevents them from getting " stuck up." Leave
the rest to the mother, who by the gentle use of her tongue
will do her best to keep them open.

Diarrhoea

If your cat or kitten is suffering from diarrhoea, be careful
not to give anything hot. Let all food be just warm. There
are so many causes for this troublesome complaint, viz., in-
d gestion, chills, worms. The difficulty is to diagnose the
rtal seat of the trouble and treat accordingly. Nothing so
quickly weakens a kitten as persistent diarrhoea.

A simple prescription for diarrhoea is the white of a raw

n

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 87

egg. A teaspoonful given two or three times a day will often
have the desired effect when all other remedies have failed.

I have been told that for diarrhoea there is nothing to
equal Bragg's Charcoal, given night and morning. About a
quarter of a teaspoonful is sufficient, mixed in a little water.

Dry arrowroot will often check diarrhoea if given in the
early stages. Never allow a cat or kitten to continue long
with this weakening ailment.

Skin Complaints

Doubtless many of my readers have discovered from time
to time little dry scurvy spots upon their cats. These come
from heated blood and are easily cured. Ask your chemist
to make up an ointment of equal proportions of sulphur and
vaseline, apply this for two or three consecutive days, then
use a small tooth comb and the roughness will come away.

A very troublesome and infectious complaint is black
eczema or ringworm. This appears in round dark patches
on the skin, causing the fur to come off. There is a sort of
coating of black scurf, and this gradually spreads. If taken
in time the disease is easily cured. Mr. A. Ward has a
strong solution which should be applied about three or four
days running. Then use a small tooth comb, and the
black scaly surface comes away. The hair quickly grows
again, and the cat's health seems in no way to suffer.

Jaundice is not a common complaint amongst cats, but
you may be sure if the eyes become glassy looking and the
whites turn a yellow colour that there is serious mischief in
the region of the liver, and your cat needs a strong
aperient.

I have been told by an experienced fancier and breeder
that it is a sure sign that a cat has internal eczema if she
eats or gnaws at her kittens. A cat might look healthy and
fat and well, and have fine kittens, but they will dwindle

88 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

and die away, without any apparent cause if there is this
internal trouble. Sometimes you may notice that a cat or
kitten takes to perpetually washing itself. This is also a
sign of internal eczema. Salvo has a cure for this rather
mysterious complaint.

In case of any skin eruption it is always safe to administer
sulphur. This is easily given in the cat's food, about as
much powder as will go on a threepenny piece once a day.

The following is a very good remedy for eczema ; Mix
about two tablespoonsful of colza oil with one of paraffin
and sufficient flour of sulphur to thicken the liquid. Each
time you require to use the application, mix it well up.
Divide the fur and rub on with fingers.

If a cat is suffering from any skin trouble, it is best to try
and keep the affected parts covered with a bandage, to pre-
vent the puss from licking them, as the roughness of the
tongue prevents the healing up process.

Do not be alarmed if you find a sort of brown, damp
scurf on your cat's tail. It is only natural grease con-
sequent on the change of coat. Dust it with a little white
fuller's earth.

Snuffles

There are many and various remedies suggested and
recommended for that troublesome complaint commonly
called '• snuffles." I have known a complete cure effected
by absolute change of air. I heard of one puss who was
considered a chronic sufferer, but after a sojourn at the sea-
side she had not a sniffle left.

There is nothing so difficult to cure in- cats as " snuffles,"
by which I mean a sort of chronic nasal catarrh. This is
sometimes the result of a bad cold, and it is often a remnant
of distemper. There are many powders and medicines
advertised by vetermaries, which may with patience prove
effectual. I believe, however, there is nothing so beneficial

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 89

as complete change of air for pussy. I have known this
act like magic on what appeared a permanent case of
"snuffles."

I heard of a bad case of snuffles in a cat being cured in
the following manner : A little Sanitas oil dropped on the
nose, just so that a drop or two enters the nostrils. Wet
the front feet with the oil, so that the cat will rub it over
her face when washing. Continue this for a few days, and
if the discharge and sneezing still continue, inject a little
Sanitas fluid, one part fluid to four of water, in the nostrils,
and use the oil as well.

Constipation

It is very necessary in cases of constipation (generally
caused by want of proper green food) to administer an
aperient, and I must say I dislike giving castor oil to cats
or kittens. Medicine done up in the form of pills or capsules
is so much easier to give, and no risk is run of spoiling
pussy's appearance.

For young kittens suffering from constipation, I much
prefer sweet oil to castor oil. Some kits will lick it of their
own accord. I am sure that many kittens succumb to this
trying complaint before even the owners are aware of the
trouble.

It is not a good sign for a cat to be constantly sleeping
during the day-time, especially if we have every reason to
believe that puss has enjoyed a good night's rest. In such
cases, give half a Carter's Little Liver Pill, and you will find
that your pet will be brighter and better.

Beware of giving too much Brand's Essence to young
kittens. It is very constipating, and I have heard a very
clever veterinary remark that many fanciers finish off their
invalids by too frequently administering spoonsful of this
essence. On the other hand, if used with discretion, it is
most efficacious. The directions on the tin are for human
beings, so give less for cats.

90 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Fits

Fits are rather common amongst highly-bred cats, espe-
cially at the time of teething. I have found the following
course a most effectual one : — Plunge the cat in a bath of
hot water right up to the neck. Place a rag soaked in cold
water on the head, and bathe the face. By these means
the cat will quickly recover. Bromide powders may be
given to avoid a frequent recurrence of fits, and they help to
soothe and quiet the nerves.

Some cats are subject to fits. These may be caused by
worms or undue excitement. It may be well to give small
doses of bromide of potassium from time to time to soothe
the nerves.

Chest, Throat, and Lungs

I do not like to see a cat, who, so to speak, mews with-
out making any audible sound. This betokens weakness of
the chest or lungs. For these cats I should not advise
" lights " as food, for the lungs of cattle are often affected,
and thus your pussie's tendency to weakness in that quarter
would be aggravated.

An easy and effectual remedy for sore throats in cats is
chlorate of potash. Take a pinch of the powder, open the
mouth wide, and drop down the throat.

Ears

All cats have the strongest objection to having anything
cold put into their ears. Therefore, if you use any lotion,
let it stand in hot water, so that the chill may be tzken off.
If Condy and water is used, let it be tepid. Use a sponge,
not a syringe, as the ear is a very sensitive organ.

If you see your cat constantly scratching her ear you may
be pretty sure there is some hidden irritation. Make a

DQ

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 91

funnel of a piece of paper, place some boracic acid powder
in it, and blow down the ear. Do this a few times, and
then wash out with weak Condy and water.

A very troublesome complaint in cats is canker of the
ear, and one which is often not discovered until the mis-
chief has fairly begun. If you notice your pussie shaking
her head continually, generally to one side, you should
carefully examine her ears, and proceed to clean them out
with weak Condy and warm water. Be careful to dry them
thoroughly. Canker may be considered as a symptom of
general ill-health.

Debility

A simple and a good tonic for a cat who is suffering from
debility is the following : — Tincture of cinchona bark, one
ounce; water one pint. Give a dessertspoonful of this
mixture thrice daily.

There is an excellent tonic for cats prepared by Mr.
Croft, of Reading. It is a sort of malt food in a powder,
which is prepared in the same way as Benger's Food. I am
told it is especially good for nursing mothers and delicate
cats that need something nourishing to get them into con-
dition after an illness. It is too heavy and heating for
young kittens.

For cats and kittens that have, so to speak, run down,
try Benbow's mixture for dogs. I am told it acts like
magic. A small teaspoonful may safely be given to a cat
daily for about a week, and not quite half the quatitity for a
kitten. This mixture can be purchased at any chemist's.

If your cat is just a little out of sorts, try the effect of
James' No. i Powder, called, rightly, the "magical." A
well-known fancier, whose cats are always the pink of per-
fection, declares they have really worked wonders in her
cattery.

In cases of debility, after attacks of distemper and

92 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

influenza I have found Animal Kreochyle a splendid pick-
me-up for cats and kittens. It acts as a stimulant and
reviver, and as it is easily assimilated, the digestive powers
are in no way taxed. Two teaspoonfuls in a saucer of water
for a cat and half the quantity for a kitten. I find my cats
lap it up with a relish, with or without dilution. All cat
fanciers should send for a sample.

Distemper

When distemper attacks our poor pussies, there is really
nothing to be done but to try and k^ep up their strength, as
this disease very rapidly produces intense debility. From
the commencement give frequent small doses of strong beef
tea, into which one grain of quinine has been introduced,
twice a day, also a small quantity of port wine (from half to
one teaspoonful) according to the size of the cat. No solid
food should be allowed until convalescence has set in. The
animal should be kept moderately warm. Brandy may be
given as a last resource to arouse sinking vitality.

If your kits are attacked with distemper and the weather
is warm and fine put them out on the lawn in the sunshine.
Fresh air and sunshine work wonders for diseased animals.
I have found the same experiment very efficacious when
kittens are suffering from sore eyes. The air seems to have
a healing effect. Of course a cold wind is a different matter
and must be avoided.

Miscellaneous

It may not be generally known that the normal tempera-
ture of cats is higher than that of human beings. Our tem-
perature in good health is 98.4 ; that of a cat is 101.4. It
is a useful thing to be able to test the exact temperature of
your puss if you fancy she is feverish or run down. The
best position to place the thermometer is under one of the
front paws, as the fur is less thick just there. If the ther-
mometer registers three or four degrees above normal, then
have recourse to a liquid diet, if below, feed up with a
stimulating diet.

DISEASES AND REMEDIES 93

I consider Salvo's Preventive Medicine a boon and a
blessing to cat fanciers, and no one who values their pets
should be without a bottle of this magic mixture. I know I
recently warded off a serious attack by an immediate dosing,
and before and after all shows I intend to resort to this
effective concoction — whatever it is, it is absolutely safe.

When medicine is ordered three times a day for your cat,
eleven, three, and seven are good times and easy to remem-
ber. It is not fair to doctor or patient to give the doses
irregularly and inaccurately measured. It is always advisable
to give any kind of aperient or worm mixture on an empty
stomach.

There is very often one weakly kitten in a litter. Some-
times there may hardly seem any life in the little creature
when born. In such a case hold the mite in front of the fire
for a time, or, better still, place it in a moderately heated
oven. It is wonderful how quickly animation and vitality is
produced by these means.

A very sure sign of a cat being out of sorts is when ears
and nose are hot. Give an extra amount of green food or
grass, and perhaps a gentle aperient of some sort would not
be amiss. I like to feel a damp cold nose on a cat as well
as on a dog.

A cat or kitten that is feverish is nearly always thirsty, and
will hang over a saucer of water, preferring that to milk. A
very small quantity of salicylate of quinine dissolved is an
excellent remedy for fever. Quantity : about one grain to a
tablespoonful of water.

When Persian cats are shedding their coats they are
troubled with the quantity of hair which is swallowed during
the process of the toilet. Yuu may find your puss constantly
choking or coughin:/ in the effort to bring up the fur which
has accumulated in the passages. Give her plenty of coarse
grass or fern, and this will assist her in getting rid of the balls
of fur.

94 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Remember it is not the quantity of food a kitten takes
that benefits it. The secret of its health and well-being
is in the quantity it digests. A kitten should only digest
certain things in certain proportions, and whatever remains
undigested produces irritation, and in this case a kitten
cannot possibly develop, and is generally weakly and fretful.

If you suspect your cat has any internal inflammation
never give milk, but Brand's essence in cold water and
arrowroot and water, or rice water with two drops of brandy
every hour alternately.

CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES

I AM almost afraid to think, much less to say, how many
years ago it was that I attended the first Cat Show held at
the Crystal Palace, which was organised by Mr. Harrison
Weir. I well remember, however, when the National Cat
Club was founded in 1887 ; and since that date the, number
of fanciers has steadily increased, and many new clubs and
societies have been formed. Instead of one show a year,
there are many, and Mr. Harrison Weir's prophecy is ful-
filled. I quote from the preface of his book on cats
written in 1889 : "But should a new order of things arise
the cat will not only be a useful, serviceable helpmate,
but an object of increasing interest, admiration, and
cultured beauty, and thus being of value, will also be
profitable."

The National Cat Club, now under the able management
of Mrs. Stennard-Robinson, holds its two principal shows at
the Crystal Palace and the Botanical Gardens, and every
year the entries increase and the improvement in the various
breeds of cats is most noticeable.

The Cat Club came into existence in 1898, being insti-
tuted by Lady Marcus Beresford, who has done such go< d
work in the cat world. The excellently managed shows
held yearly at St. Stephen's Hall, Westminster, testify to the
unwearied exertions and lavish generosity of the founder of
the club. These shows have been held in aid of various
deserving charities.

Other cat shows in all parts of England are held during

96 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

the year, under the rules of either of these parent clubs, or
independently.

In addition to the two principal clubs, which are well
known to all cat fanciers, it may be interesting and useful
to give a complete list of the Cat Clubs and Specialists
Societies up to date, with names and addresses of their
respective hon. secretaries.

LIST OF CAT CLUBS AND SOCIETIES

The National Cat Club, founded 1887. Hon. sec.,
Mrs. A. Stennard-Robinson, 5 Great James Street, Bedford
Row, London, W.C. Annual subscription, i guinea.

The Cat Club, founded 1898. Hon. sec., Mrs. Bagster,
1 5A Paternoster Row, London, E.G. Entrance fee, 205. ;
annual subscription, los. 6d.

The Northern Counties Cat Club, founded 1900. Hon.
sec., Mrs. Herbert Ransome, Altrmcham. Annual sub-
scription, I OS.

The Silver and Smoke Persian Cat Society, founded 1900.
Hon. sec., Mrs. H. V. James, Backwell, near Bristol.
Annual subscription, 53.

The Blue Persian Cat Society, founded 1901. Hon. sec.,
Miss Frances Simpson, Durdans House, St. Margaret's-on-
Thames. Annual subscription, 55.

The Siamese Club, founded 1900. Hon. sec., Mrs.
Baker, 13 Wyndham Place, Bryanston Square, W.
Annual subscription, 43.

The Orange, Cream, Fawn and Tortoiseshell Society,
founded 1900. Hon. sec., Miss Mildred Beal, Ronaldkirk
Rectory, Darlington. Annual subscription, los.

The Chinchilla Cat Club, founded May 1901. Hon. sec.,
Mrs. Balding, 92 Goldsmith Avenue, Acton. Annual sub-
scription, 53.

The Short-haired Cat Club, founded 1901. Hon. sec.,
Mrs. Middleton, 67 Cheyne Court, Chelsea. Annual sub-
scription, 55. ; 2S. 6d. to working classes.

The Scottish Cat Club, founded 1894. Hon. sec., J. F.
Dewar, 2 St. Patrick Square, Edinburgh. Annual sub-
scription, 53.

CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES 97

The Midland Counties Cat Club, founded at Wolver-
hampton 1901. Hon. sec., Miss Cope, 136 Bristol Road,
Birmingham. Annual subscription, 53.

The British Cat Club, founded 1901. Hon. sec., Sir
Claude Alexander, Faygate Wood, Sussex. Subscription, 55.

The Manx Cat Clnb, founded 1901. Miss Hester Coch-
ran, Witchampton, Wimborne. Subscription, los.

CLUBS IN THE UNITED STATES

The Beresford Cat Club (Chicago), founded 1899. Presi-
dent, Mrs. Clinton Locke ; corresponding secretary, Mrs. A.
Michelson, 220 East Sixtieth Street, Chicago. Annual sub-
scription, i dollar.

The Chicago Cat Club, founded 1899. President, Mrs.
Leland Norton, Drexel Kennels, Drexel Boulevard, Chicago.

The Louisville Cat Club, founded 1900. Corresponding
secretary, Miss E. Converse. Annual subscription, 50 cents.

The Pacific Cat Club, founded 1900. Corresponding
secretary, Mrs. A. H. Brod, 114 Broderick Street, San Fran-
cisco. Annual subscription, i dollar.

The Atlantic Cat Club, recently founded in New York in
February 1902. President, Col. Mann ; corresponding secre-
tary, Dr. Ottolesgui, 80 West Fortieth Street, New York.

It will be seen from this list that the only long-haired
breeds not provided for by any specialist club are Blacks,
Whites, and Brown Tabbies. When the Blue Persian Cat
Society was founded, the idea of making it a self-coloured
society and including Blacks and Whites was raised, but the
" Blue " fanciers wished to keep to their own colour. Pro-
bably before another year is out some enterprising and
enthusiastic " self" breeder will gather these handsome
breeds within the fold of specialist societies. Then the
dear " Brownies " will be the only remaining variety, and I
would fain start a little Society myself for these — my pet
pussies, I frankly confess — but I fear I must leave it to
some other friend of the Brown Tabby to muster the
breeders of these handsome but neglected cats.

As will be seen from the list, America is well provided

G

98 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

with Cat Clubs. The Chicago Club was the first in the
field, followed by The Beresford Cat Club, which was
founded in 1899 by Mrs. Clinton Locke of Chicago, and
was called after Lady Marcus Beresford. I think I am
correct in stating that the members now number nearly
200. A very large Cat Show is held by this Club every year
in January, where a wonderfully liberal classification is given.
It is well known that our American cousins like everything
of the best, and somehow they generally get it ! Several
very beautiful and noted cats have recently left these shores,
and are now established in the States. " The Stud Book of
the Beresford Cat Club," vol. ii., just received, is really well
drawn up and arranged in a neat book of handy size.

There were no fewer than seventy-five classes at the last
Cat Show held January 1902. Only two prizes in each class
are given, the third award being a V. H. C. card and the
fourth H. C. The White classes in long-haired, open and
novice include separate ones for blue-eyed and golden-eyed
males and females. This Club provides for Orange and
White in both the long- and short-haired sections and for Blue
Tabbies, there being special classes for these cats, that on
this side are relegated to the " Any other colour " class.
Neuters are well provided for with four long-haired classes
and three short-haired. There is a class for Blue or Maltese
cats, male or female. Grey Tabbies are included with Brown
Tabbies. These are the chief differences between the classi-
fication of the principal American Cat Club and our own.

I think it will be useful to give the standard of points
drawn up by each Specialist Club. I therefore append the
following list :

BLUE PERSIANS

Coat — Any shade of blue allowable ; sound and
even in colour ; free from markings, shadings,
or any white hairs. Fur long, thick and soft

in texture. Frill full 30

Head — Broad and round, with width between the
ears. Face and nose short. Ears small and
tufted. Cheeks well developed . . .25
Eyes — Orange ; large, round and full . , .20
Body— Cobby and low on the legs . . . 15
Tail — Short and full, not tapering , . .10

>, ^

1 I

CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES 99

SILVER OR CHINCHILLAS

Silvers or Chinchillas should be as pale and unmarked a silver as
it is possible to breed them. Any brown or cream tinge a great
drawback. The eyes to be green or orange.

Value of points :

Head 20

Shape . 15

Colour of coat 25

Coat and condition 20

Colour, shape and expression of eyes . . .10

Tail 10

SHADED SILVERS

Shaded Silvers should be a pale clear silver, shaded on face, legs
and back, but having as few tabby markings as possible; eyes,
green or orange. Any brown or cream tinge a great drawback.

Value of points :

Head 20

Colour of coat 25

Coat and condition 20

Colour, shape and expression of eyes . , .10

Shape 15

Tail 10

SILVER TABBIES

Silver Tabbies should be a pale clear silver, with distinct black

markings. Any brown or cream tinge a great drawback ; eyes to be
drange or green.

Value of points :

Head and expression 25

Colour and markings .•••«, 25

Colour of eyes • •••••• 5

Coat and condition • • • • 20

Shape • . 15

Tail . 10

ioo CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

SMOKES

Smoke Cats should be black, shading to smoke grey) with a
light an undercoat as possible ; light frill and ear tufts ; eyes to ba
orange.

Values of points :

Head and expression •••••. 20

Colour of eyes 15

Colour of undercoat 10

Absence of markings 15

Coat and condition ...... 20

Tail 10

Shape . • zo

CREAM OR FAWN

Colour — To be as pure as possible without mark-
ing or shading, either paler or darker, dulness
and white to be particularly avoided. All
shades from the palest fawn to be allowable . 25

Coat — To be very long and fluffy . . . -25

Size and Shape — To be large, not coarse, but
massive, with plenty of bone and substance,
short legs 2O

Head — To be round and broad, with short nose,

ears small and well opened . . . .15

Eyes — To be large and full, and bright orange or
hazel hi colour . . . . .5

Condition . . • • • • • .10

ORANGE, SELF OR TABBY

Colour and Marking — Colour to be as bright as
possible, and either self, or markings to be as
distinct as can be got 25

Coat — To be silky, very long and fluffy . . 25

Size and Shape — To be large, not coarse, but
massive, with plenty of bone and substance,
short legs 20

Head — To be round and broad, with short nose,

ears small and well opened . . . .15

Eyes — To be large and full, and bright orange or
hazel in colour 5

Condition 10

CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES 101

TORTOISESHELL

Colour and Marking — The three colours, Black,
Orange, and Yellow, to be well broken, and as
bright and well defined as possible ; free from
Tabby markings. No white . . . .30

Coat — To be silky, very long and fluffy . . .20

Size and Shape — To be large, not coarse, but
massive, with plenty of bone and substance,
short legs 25

Head— To be round and broad, with short nose,

ears small and well opened . . . .15

Eyes — To be large and full, and bright orange or

hazel in colour ...... 5

Condition ...,.,,. 10

CHINCHILLA

Used also in Amerka. The Chinchilla Cat Club having been
invited to draw up the standard for judging Chinchilla Cats in the
U.S.A.

Colour of Coat — Palest silver lavender tint pre-
ferred, nearly white at roots. No dark stripes,
blotches, or brown tint. Darker tips to the
long hairs give the coat an appearance of
being lightly peppered with a darker shade,
or with black. The whole appearance of the
cat to be very pale 30

Coat — Long and thick ...... 20

Texture of Coat — Fine and soft . . . .10

Tufts of hair inside and round the ears and between

the toes 10

Head — Broad and round. Forehead wide. Ears

small and set low, nose short . . . .23

Shape — Back level, not too short. Legs short.
Paws round. Brush short, wide, and carried
low 2O

Eyes — Large, luminous. Colour, green, or green
and yellow mixture (called hazel in connection
with cats), 5 points. Not yellow or orange . 10

ROYAL CAT OF SIAM

Body Colour as light and even as possible, cream being the most
desirable, but fawn also admissible, with streaks, bars, blotches, or
other body markings.

102 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Points — i.e. , mask, ears, legs and feet, and tail, dark and clearly
defined, of the shade known as " seal-brown."

Mask, complete — i.e., connected by tracings with the ears, neither
separated by a pale ring as in kittens, nor blurred and indistinct,
the desideratum being to preserve " the marten-face," an impression
greatly aided by a good mask.
Eyes. — Bright and decided blue.
Coat. — Glossy and close-lying.

Shape. — Body rather long, legs proportionately slight.
Head. — Rather long and pointed.

General Appearance. — With points emphasised above, a somewhat
curious and striking-looking cat — graceful, elegant, of medium size;
if weighty not showing bulk, as this would detract from the admired
svette appearance. In type, in every particular, the reverse of the
ideal short-haired domestic cat, and with properly preserved con-
trasts of colour, a very handsome animal, often also distinguished
by a kink in the tail.

Body colour 20

Shape 10

Coat 10

Head .,,......10

Eyes 20

Mask 15

Density of points (i.e., mask, feet and legs, tail) . 15

SHORT-HAIRED CATS

White Cats should be pure white, without markings ; eyes, blue.

Black : Pure and rich black ; no white ; eyes, orange.

Blue: Pure blue without markings ; no white ; eyes, orange.

Tortoiseshell: Patched yellow, orange and black; no stripes, no
white ; eyes, orange.

Tortoiseshell with white : White patched with yellow, orange and
black ; no stripes ; eyes, orange.

Silver Tabby : Pale silver grey, marked with rich black stripes
or bars ; no pure white ; eyes, green or orange.

Brown Tabby : Golden brown, marked with rich black stripes or
bars ; no white ; eyes, orange or green.

Orange Tabby : Light orange or red, with darker stripes or bars ;
no white ; eyes, hazel or golden brown.

Manx : Any colour, eyes, to follow colour as above ; outer-coat
rather long, and having a soft rabbit-like under-coat ; no tail ; hind
quarters rather higher than fore quarters.

ENTERING FOR EXHIBITION

On the next page is a copy of the entry form used by
The National Cat Club, which will serve as a sample of the
general form used by various club secretaries :

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104 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

I feel I cannot bring my remarks to a close without making
some reference to those excellent institutions which must
appeal to the hearts of the animal-loving public. I mean
the homes for poor stray and starving cats. The first
organised attempt to deal with this question in London
was started in 1895 under the title of "The Society
for the Protection of Cats." In connection with this
there is now A Home for Starving and Forsaken Cats.
Mrs. Gordon is a most able and energetic Hon. Secre-
tary, and devotes a great deal of her time to the poor
animals that are brought or sent to Gordon Cottage,
King Street, Hammersmith. Let those interested in the
humane work carried on at this excellent institution send
for a report, or, better still, pay a visit to the cottage
home, where they will be welcomed between the hours
of 2 and 5 P.M.

In the North of London there is another excellent institu-
tion for Lost and Starving Cats, to which her Majesty the
Queen has graciously given her patronage. This home is
entirely dependent on the voluntary aid of sympathetic
friends, and when I mention that during last year nearly
12,000 cats were received, some idea will be given of the
amount of funds required to carry on this work of mercy.
The premises have lately been enlarged, and the Hon.
Manageress, Mrs. Morgan (35, Ferdinand Street, Camden
Town, N.W.), is sorely in need of donations towards the
extra expenses incurred. I have personally visited both
these institutions, and can testify to the excellent arrange-
ments for feeding, and also for painlessly destroying them
when no homes can be found.

The Dublin Cats' Home was started by Miss Swifte six-
teen years ago. I have been deeply interested in reading
the annual report. It speaks well for the natives of the
Emerald Isle and for the hearts of the Irish people, that
they should be the first to recognise the needs of poor stray
and forsaken cats. With characteristic enthusiasm they set
about erecting an institution at Grand Canal Quay, Dublin.
Miss Swifte, the President and Hon. Treasurer, was the
pioneer of the movement and has carried on her good work
in the face of many difficulties and, I have no doubt, also
that she and the other founders of like institutions have had

CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES 105

to suffer much ridicule, for the majority of human beings
have very little sympathy with " mere cats," and seem to
think they, of all animals, are least deserving of kindness
and consideration. Miss Swifte's private address is 2 Earls-
fort Mansions, Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin.

The Battersea Home for Lost Dogs has also accommoda-
tion for cats as strays and boarders.

And now a few words about the boarding out of our
pussies. I am constantly asked if I know of a good place
where cats will be taken care of during the absence of the
owner. I wonder that more cat lovers and cat fanciers
wishing to add to their incomes do not start boarding-houses
for cats. I think there is a great opening for such an enter-
prise. At present I only know personally of two ladies who
receive pussies at so much per week. Miss Harper, of
Briarlea, Haywards Heath, is well known in the Fancy, and
although I have not been to see her " catteries," I am told
they are capitally planned, and I have often recommended
my friends to send their cats to be taken care of by Miss
Harper, who gives her personal attention to all the boarders
entrusted to her.

I have also had testimony to the excellent manner in
which Mrs. Carew Cox caters for her pussy visitors. A
fancier who had placed her cats at the Kremlin, New
Milton, Hants, for some months, was so surprised and
delighted at the appearance of her pets on their return that
she wrote asking for a special description of the menu pro-
vided.

Mrs. Carew Cox and Miss Harper are both successful
breeders of prize-winning cats, and they have also that
genuine love for the animals which is so necessary and
essential when taking charge of other people's pets.

I may here mention that the chief organs of the cat
world in England are Fur and Feather and Our Cats, and in
America, The Cat Journal, The American Cat News, and
Field and Fancy.

In regard to the Blue "Maltese" (a name which, perhaps,
has as much justification as the English " Russian ") in
America, Mr. E. N. Barker says : "There are lots of Blues, light
and dark, short-haired, and these are always called Maltese.
The origin of the term I never could trace to its foundation,

106 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

but they are much treasured. Occasionally you find Maltese
(so called) of other colours, and Blue and White. The
owners are generally under the impression that these cats
are a special breed to themselves ; this point, however, is
open to doubt."

The same authority, referring to Tortoiseshells, says : " I
doubt if this breed will ever find favour in America, and
Blacks are too sombre for this country, where people enjoy
a good deal of sunshine, the fancy being more apt to run
to lively colours."

Another curious item about American cats is that there
have been for many years, in the States of Maine and
Massachusetts, and on the islands off that coast, quite
a number of long haired cats, called by the natives " Coon
cats," because of their jackets. History relates that they
were brought from the East on ships, and being landed on
the islands are tolerably pure, though some have crossed
with wild cats and ordinary cats and have varied also from
climatic influence. They are mostly rather large, strong
cats, well coated, with wonderful tails, big in the ear, short
of fur over the head and inclined to be long in the nose.
Amongst the Maine cats are some of a curious seal- brown
colour, or deep mahogany red, with not a vestige or sign of
markings, giving them an undoubted suggestion (however
impossible) of a 'coon (raccoon) strain in them. Hence, pre-
sumably, the name.

I confess that I should like to see specimens of these
cats in England.

Miss Helen M. Winslow in her book concerning cats says
that by many people this Blue or Maltese cat is not con-
sidered a distinct breed. It seems vaguely to be known as
the Archangel, Russian, Spanish and Chartreuse, and yet
probably it is only a cross between Blacks and Whites.
Miss Winslow gives a picture of her " Pretty Lady " and
describes her as a "beautiful, fascinating and seductive
Maltese, with white trimmings to her coat." The illustra-
tion suggests a cross between a Russian and a short-haired
English cat with an expansive white shirt front and white
gloves.

VI

MISCELLANEOUS

THERE is a great deal in the way in which a cat carries
her tail. It ought not to be stuck up straight in the air nor
yet curled under the hind legs, or dragged along the ground.
I like to see a Persian cat's tail carried just on a level with
the body, and slightly curving upwards towards the end.
Small ears are a great beauty in a cat. They should not be
wide at the base, nor pointed at the tip. Nice ear tufts
make a wonderful difference in the appearance of a Persian
cat.

Ordinary hampers may be made more portable for cats it
a double strap, such as is used for rugs, is run twice through
the wicker work, and the handle brought to the top.

To fanciers wishing to start Persian cats, chiefly with a
view to taking prizes at our shows, I would recommend
them to obtain a really good Black queen, with amber eyes.
At each of the principal shows the Black class is ever the
weakest ; this is specially the case as regards the female sex.
A really handsome Black Persian is a thing of beauty.

Kittens that live out of doors and are constantly in the
hot sunshine, readily get sunburnt and their pretty coats
become tinged with brown. But do not be unhappy, as
this will disappear with their kitten coat, and by fresh air
and exercise and the strengthening rays of the sun, the little
ones will be laying in a stock of health.

io8 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

A capital collar for 9 cat is a leather garter lined with
flannel. The sharp edges being covered do not injure the
frill and fur.

All White cats are not deaf, but in purchasing one of this
breed it is always best to test their sense of hearing. If
stone-deaf, the price should certainly not be so high, as
although this fact does not prevent a cat from winning
prizes, yet it is undesirable for our pets to be deaf to our
entreaties.

White kittens are frequently born with a dab or splash of
grey on their heads. Tnis apparent serious blemish is
only temporary, and as the kittens grow the dark hairs
vanish.

Tabby markings are often visible upon Blues when they
are tiny mites, and one is apt to fear lest these should
become more and more apparent, but as the fur grows they
quite disappear, leaving no trace of stripes or bars.

It would be a great benefit if the executive of all cat
shows decided to supply only water for the pussies, unless
milk was specially asked for. I think we should then hear
of fewer disasters following exhibitions. Nothing collects
germs so easily and quickly as milk, and in all weathers
there is the risk of its turning sour. In and about London,
and, indeed, even in the country, it is unfortunately the
custom to introduce boracic acid as a preservative, which
proves a poison to cats and delicate children.

Cobby cats are certainly to be preferred as regards
appearance, but I incline to the belief that those females
who are long-bodied are the best cats to breed from.

It is not a bad idea to have warm coats made for our
travelling queens when making a long journey in cold
weather. A lady was sent to my stud the other day clothed
in a very smart jacket, through which her front paws were
placed, and it was buttoned up on her back. This puss
had also a pair of washleather boots on her back legs, so

MISCELLANEOUS 109

her appearance was a little startling ! The boots were as a
preventive to scratching her eyes or ears. I think only a
very amicable cat would stand these trying appendages.

The eyes begin to change colour in kittens when they are
about three months old. It is disappointing when the bright
blue eyes of White kittens gradually assume a pale greenish
hue, and finally about five or six months old, settle down
into a decided yellow. In blue kittens we look out anxiously
for the orange tinge. In these kittens the blue eyes quickly
lose their brightness, and when first the colour appears to be
changing it seems almost the same colour as their coats. It
is a curious fact that in many cats it is impossible to state
whether the eyes are green or yellow. This is especially the
case in Blues and Silvers. The health of the animal has
a great deal to do with the density of the colour in the eyes.

The question of hampers versus boxes for our cats when
travelling is one that demands attention, more especially
during winter. In cold weather I believe in boxes with
ventilation on the top. Then comes the question of how to
secure a sufficiency of air, as, in spite of our directions,
" Live Cat, with Care," the railway officials will heap luggage
on the top of our precious cargo. I advise fixing blocks of
wood, about two inches in thickness, on the lids, and thus
the danger of suffocation would be avoided.

It may sound foolish, but there is no covering so warm
and air-tight as paper, and I have found this cheap com-
modity most useful and efficient. If you wish to send a puss
on a journey in a hamper, then procure a large sheet of
brown paper, place the hamper in the middle, and fold it up
like a parcel, leaving a square space on top of the lid round
the handle. This is really a better mode of protecting the
cat than by any inner linings, which are often scratched
down by struggling and protesting animals. If, however,
you like to have a double protection, don't select red flannel,
or any material of brilliant hue, as I have seen a light-
coloured puss issue from a basket partially dyed scarlet.

We all know what a very trying habit our pussies have of

no CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

sharpening their claws on choice pieces of furniture. They
generally show a great partiality for leather-covered chairs.
It is quite necessary that cats should exercise their talons, so
it is best to provide a large log of wood in the cattery or in
the house, where they may claw away to their heart's
delight.

Try and avoid sending your queens on visits in mon-
strously large packages, for many reasons it is not desirable.
I think a cat is more apt to get knocked and rolled about
travelling in a very big hamper than a small one. Then
again, an unwieldy box or hamper gives more trouble
and sometimes extra expense in getting to and fro from the
station.

In insuring your pussies insist on having the yellow in-
surance ticket placed on the hamper in your presence.
Sometimes you pay your money and then in the hurry of
getting the package to the train the ticket is forgotten.

The theory that human beings can and do contract dis-
eases from cats does not hold water. I have often asked
caretakers of cats' homes and hospitals whether any of the
complaints of the pussies have been given to the people
who attend to them, and the answer has always been in the
negative.

I have recently been purchasing cat travelling baskets for
friends, and I can highly recommend those made by Spratt's.
They are very strong, and have the straps for fasteners,
which are vastly preferable to the wicker loops and stick.
The latter seems always missing at the critical moment when
we are sending off our pussies on a journey. Then, again,
the loops break away, and we are at a loss to get tnem
mended. The skeleton lids are a valuable addition.

It is not well, for many reasons, to allow stud cats to
have their freedom — that is, if they are of any value. After
a male has reached the years of discretion and discernment
he will soon begin to stray away, and probably on his return
after a day or two he will show signs of having had a sharp

MISCELLANEOUS in

contest with some of his tribe. Then he runs the risk of
being trapped or shot. The feline society with which he
comes in contact during his rambles may have been
anything but desirable. Infection may be brought back,
and if there are other pussies at home this is a serious
matter.

The difference between a good-shaped eye of a pale
colour and a small, beady eye of a more correct shade is
perhaps hardly appreciated by some judges, who without
hesitation give the preference to the latter. Nothing lends
such expression to a cat as a large, round, full eye — and, of
course, let it be the correct colour if possible.

There is really no reason to regard distemper as a neces-
sary evil in cats. In the case of one pet kept at home and
well cared for, the chances are certainly against the occur-
rence of the disease. Then, I am of opinion that so-called
distemper embraces a variety of complaints, from any or all
of which a cat may suffer. A simple cold in the head, or
an attack of influenza, sometimes is mistaken for distemper,
and a gastric attack may be also thus designated.

As regards cross-journeys, do let me impress on all
fanciers the importance of sending off their pussies as early
as possible in the morning. If you wait till mid-day, and
your cat has to cross London and be booked again to some
suburb, it is certain she will be left all night in a parcels'
office.

Any one who has tried getting kittens to sit for their por-
traits knows how difficult it is to make the fidgety little
creatures be quiet. Try holding up a looking-glass so that
the kit can see its own reflection. This experiment often
answers splendidly.

A cat lover with a warm heart is often tempted to take in
a wandering puss. By all means feed the hungry, but be-
ware of letting a stray mix with your own kittens. Many
a fancier has been bitten, and in consequence is shy of
letting her sympathy run away with her prudence.

ii2 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

It is most improving for the fur of young kittens to have
a good romp. They delight in rolling about those little
celluloid balls which rattle. Don't let them play with corks,
as I have known them bite pieces off, and they swell in
their inside and are most dangerous. I have also heard of
string being swallowed, and becoming twisted round the
intestines.

The enamel unbreakable ware is decidedly the nicest and
most serviceable for our pussies. I recently observed upon
the very convenient shape of some of these dishes in use in
a very complete cattery. I was told they were frying-pans
from which the handle had been removed !

It is curious that as a rule the lighter the coat of the cat
the more fragile is the constitution. For instance, amongst
Persians, Whites and Silvers are less hardy than Blacks and
Tabbies.

If you wish to pick up a dangerous or strange cat be
careful to seize it quickly and firmly by the back of its neck
and hold it out at arm's length. It will then only be able
to use strong language.

I have heard that the best way to part two fighting cats
is to pour water upon them. I know from a painful
experience that it is dangerous to attempt to separate them.

It is really better to give your puss a name suggestive of
his or her sex. I can assure you this is of assistance to the
judges and to those who have the arrangement of specials
given at a show.

If any one is kind enough to send you a cat on approval
and she does not suit you, do not return her the next day,
especially if she has travelled far, but keep the poor puss
for two nights and a day, and start her off early the
following morning, giving the sender due notice of her
return.

Beware of tying ribbons round your pussies' necks. They

MISCELLANEOUS 113

look very smart, but I have known of several sad and fatal
accidents caused by these pretty adornments. There is the
danger of cats being caught and hung in the bushes. It is
also unwise to tether cats in the garden if within reach of
any trees.

I don't agree with the use of the bucket for poor little
rejected kittens, and consider the most humane way of
destroying them is to put them in an air-tight box with a
piece of rag or flannel that has been freely sprinkled with
chloroform. They will gradually inhale the fumes and pass
away in their sleep. For grown cats the same method
should be adopted, and no cat fancier should be without a
small quantity of chloroform. Accidents will happen in the
best regulated catteries, and sometimes it is best to put our
pets out of their misery. It requires some strength of mind,
but if you feel you cannot summon up the courage, then
take your puss to the nearest chemist, and insist on chloro-
forming, not poisoning.

A very safe and delicious disinfectant is "Eucryl," as
used at the Cat Club Shows. The perfume is pleasant,
and not the least overpowering. I have found it very effi-
cacious to sprinkle in cat-houses, and a little mixed with
water can be used with advantage in cleansing the floors
and woodwork.

Now that there are specialist societies for several breeds
of cats, prizes for these are well supplied at the various
shows. I would, therefore, suggest that fanciers should try
to encourage Blacks, Whites, and Brown Tabbies, who
have no society to look after them, and offer specials on
their behalf.

Cats are very sensible to strong odours or perfumes.
They have a great objection to the smell of orange-peel. I
am sure they resent the very strong disinfectants used at
some shows. They particularly dislike their beds to be
scented with any of these fluids or powders.

Have you noticed the different colours of cats' noses

H

ii4 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

according to the breeds ? In Blue cats they are just about
the colour of the coat, the same with Black Persians.
Orange cats have pink noses, and the Silvers mostly a sort
of brick-dust colour; this also is the case with Brown
Tabbies.

Here are particulars of two very inexpensive articles useful
to fanciers. If you do not have your tins made for holding
the earth, then purchase large earthenware flower-pot saucers.
These are much preferable to wooden boxes. Baskets come
expensive if you need many for cats travelling, so I advise
you to lay in a stock of margarine baskets, which your
butterman and grocer will let you have for a few pence.

Let me recommend my readers to pay a visit to the
Camden Town Institution for Lost and Starving Cats. It
is splendidly managed, and all information as to the most
humane way of destroying injured or aged cats is readily
given. One has to see, in order to believe, how absolutely
painless is the sleep of death in the lethal box for poor
pussy.

When your pets are in full coat, then is the time to have
their photographs taken. It is often very convenient and
useful to have a good picture of your stud cat or queen to
send to would-be purchasers of them, or of their kittens. A
reproduction in Our Cats has often proved a splendid
advertisement for fanciers.

Never be persuaded into purchasing a cat or kitten that is
suffering from snuffles, or nasal catarrh. This troublesome
complaint, which is often the remnants of distemper, is
seldom really curable. It is most distressing, not to say
disgusting, to have a cat that is sneezing all over the place.

If you are desirous of discovering the pedigree of a cat,
you should send a shilling to the secretary of the club and
ask for it to be looked up and forwarded to you.

It is a very good thing to accustom your cats to answer to
their names, and if you give them some high-sounding title

MISCELLANEOUS 115

for the register and the show catalogue, keep a nice short
pet name for home use.

It is often supposed that worms take whatever medicine
is given to the cat ; but this is not so, the worm absorbs the
nourishment, and if a substance is given that assimilates
readily with the food then these pests are destroyed, and
when dead, expelled.

When trying to pick out the best kittens in a litter of Self-
coloured ones, first see whether there is any white spot on
throat or stomach, then direct your attention to the size of
head, width between the ears, and broadness of face. A
short tail is to be desired in both Persian and English cats.

When you are ordering medicines from any of the cat
doctors, be sure and give the age of your cat or kit, and it is
also advisable to mention some of the symptoms of the
illness with which they are troubled.

A kitten may be considered a cat when it has shed its
first teeth. This process takes place between six and nine
months, and often during this period puss is out of sorts,
and refuses her food, for the gums are tender and sore.

It is always a sure sign of good health if, when a cat or
kitten has finished a meal, it slowly stretches itself, then sets
to work to have a vigorous wash up, and finally curls itself
round into a ball and falls asleep.

Many cat fanciers may not be aware that really good and
healthy foster-mothers can be procured from the excellent
homes for stray cats in and about London. The few
shillings given go to help on the humane work of these
splendid institutions.

It would seem that Self-coloured Manx cats are more
rare, and consequently more valuable than Marked or Tabby
ones. Therefore, when Black or White Manx cats are for
sale it is well to secure them.

n6 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

The tail of a Persian cat should not be tapering at the
end ; this is a defect that we often meet with. The fur on
the tail should be as long at the tip as higher up.

Ear tufts in Persian cats add wonderfully to their personal
appearance. They take away from the size of the ear and
fill in an ugly vacuum. In choosing a puss, look out for
these fine feathers.

Keep the pick of a litter for yourself if you intend
showing or wish to get a good sum for a grown-up cat,
but don't be tempted to retain two or three just to see
how they will turn out.

We do sometimes hear of the bite of a cat being fatal,
but this is very rare. I have been badly bitten several
times in separating cats, but beyond a certain amount of
pain no bad results have followed. On each occasion I
have plunged my hand into a basin of hot Condy and water,
and kept it there for some minutes, and thus the poison (if
any) has been drawn out of the wound.

Owners of stud cats are always gratified to receive letters
from the senders of queens announcing the arrival of the
family, mentioning the number of kittens, and any other in-
teresting details. If one is born dead, or dies shortly after
birth, it is considered correct to enter the birth of the whole
number of kittens in the cat papers.

If you belong to a Specialist Society, try and assist your
secretary by sending prompt replies to any questions which
may be submitted to you as members, and if in your turn
you wish to make some inquiry, it is only polite to enclose a
stamp for an answer.

Never lose an opportunity of giving a helping hand to a
novice in cat breeding, and don't offer the services of your
stud cat just for the sake of the fee when you feel and know
that a cat of a different type and breed would give better
results to the owner of the queen.

MISCELLANEOUS 117

It is a difficult matter to let our stud cats have their free-
dom even for a short time or to give them an opportunity for
exercise. I have often tethered my torn cat, and for a collar
have used a leather garter lined with flannel. One must be
careful to give only a sufficient length of cord to allow for
safe exercise. No shrubs or trees should be within reach, as
this is very risky for pussy's neck.

It is undesirable to keep kittens too long, if profit is to be
considered. From eight to twelve weeks kittens are at their
best. At about five months most young cats begin to shed
their coats and are " leggy" in appearance.

It is so much easier to fill in your cat's pedigree on a
properly drawn out pedigree form, and certainly it is pleasanter
to receive them. I have had some written-out pedigrees sent
to me from which it was impossible even to make sure of one
of the parents.

It is a sort of sad satisfaction to know the cause of our
pussies' deaths, and therefore I advise fanciers to send the
remains to a veterinary for a post-mortem. The knowledge
thus acquired may assist in determining the nature of any
future illness in the cattery.

It is very annoying when your cat persistently tears out
her ruff, more especially if you have entered her for show.
I have known fanciers to tie up pussie's hind feet in pieces
of wash leather, but this is a most irritating procedure so
far as puss is concerned, and in some cases she will not
rest till she has got rid of her shoes.

As regards insuring cats travelling by rail, I believe the
usual rate is $d. for each £i of value. I find that, as long
as the hamper is labelled with the insurance ticket, this is
a sufficient safeguard against delays and exposure ; so that,
unless the cat is unusually precious, the payment of three-
pence is all that is required.

Having recently had occasion to send some valuable cats
abroad, I can testify to the courtesy and efficiency of Messrs.

u8 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM

Spratts Limited. A lot of trouble is saved by applying to
them for all particulars regarding the shipping of cats to
foreign ports.

It is always well to keep a record of the dates and names
of visiting queens. I found this useful when receiving a
letter from the owner of a mother puss who had a litter of
nondescript kittens. The writer was much displeased, and
seemed to imply that her queen had been mated with the
wrong cat. I referred to my register and found that the
kittens were born under the eight weeks from the date of
the supposed mating. I therefore felt confident the lady
visitor had made other arrangements prior to her arrival at
my cattery.

It is always advisable to have an old pair of thick gloves
to slip on when one has to handle strange cats. Sometimes
the queens, when arriving on a visit, are very terrified on
being lifted out of their basket or placed in the cattery, and
it is just as well to protect oneself from a bite or a scratch.
Care should also be taken when removing a queen from the
stud cat, as often he resents the sudden departure of his
lady love.

In administering medicine to cats an assistant is very
necessary to hold the animal, which should be wrapped
round with a towel and the four legs firmly secured. With
the thumb and finger of the left hand open the mouth, and
with the right put down the medicine. Remember that a
cat cannot conveniently swallow more than a teaspoonful of
liquid at a time, so if a larger dose is required it must be
given by degrees.

It is quite possible to pull grown cats through an attack
of influenza, but if kittens catch it, then I recommend
owners to have them painlessly put out of their misery, for
it is in vain to try and save them. The fever runs so high
that the little creatures cannot contend against it.

It may not be generally known that whiskers are the cat's
organs of touch. They are attached to glands under the

MISCELLANEOUS 119

skin, and each of the long hairs is connected with the
nerve of the lip. The slightest contact of these whiskers is
felt most distinctly by the cat, although the hairs themselves
are insensible. Let our young friends remember this, and
never torture poor puss by pulling her whiskers.

Nothing is so beneficial to a cat's health as change of
air, and fanciers would do well to try and take one or
two of their pets with them to the country or seaside. This
is especially necessary if you reside in or near any large
town.

Try and dispose of your kittens at or about eight weeks
old, and be willing to take a rather lower price instead of
keeping them till they reach the lanky stage, when their
sale is never so easy or satisfactory.

Important to cat fanciers :

" If you your lips would keep from slips,

Five things observe with care :
Of whom you speak, to whom you speak,
And how and when and where ! "

Before writing " Finis " to these chapters, let me say how
pleased I have been with the many grateful letters I have re-
ceived telling me that my notes in Our Cats had been of
such service. I really had no idea these hints had been so
useful and instructive. All these kindly expressions en-
couraged me to write this handbook and I sincerely hope
that it will be the means of forming still further friendships
and of forging more closely the links that already bind me
to all true lovers of the dear pussy-cats.

INDEX

ABYSSINIAN cat, the, 23
America, cats in, 23, 97, 98,

105, 106

American Cat News ', 105
Animal Kreochyle, 36, 79,

80, 81, 92

Anaemia, remedy for, 28, 82
" Any other Colour " Class,

22, 64

Appetite, loss of, 46
Archangel cats, 106
Artificial heat, 29, 40, 41
Asparagus, cats fond of, 49
Atlantic Cat Club, 97

B

BARKER, E. N., 105
Battersea Home for Lost

Dogs, 105
Beef, Raw, as meat, 26, 29,

31, 44, 46, 48
Beresford Cat Club (Chi-

.cago), 97, 98
Bismuth, 80, 81
Bite of a cat, 116
Black cats mated with Blues,

55, 65, 66

Black Persian cats, 17, 107,
112, 114

Blue Persian Cat Society,
18, 96, 97

Blue Persian cats, 18, 65, 67
standard of points for, 98

Blue short-haired cat, 22

Blue Tabbies, 56, 65

Blue tortoiseshell, 56

Blues, mating of, 56, 63, 65,
67

Bone meal for cats, 49

Bovril, 36

Bowels, inflammation of the,
78

Bragg's Charcoal for diar-
rhoea, 87

Brand's Essence, 43, 89, 94

Bread and milk for kittens,

45

Breakfast, food for, 25
Breeding, 55-61

practical hints on, 62-

76

Breeds and varieties, 17-23
British Cat Club, 97
Bronchitis, 79

remedy for, 80
Brown Tabbies, 20, 56, 63,

65, 97
Bunny cat, the, 25

INDEX

CAMDEN Town Institution for
Lost and Starving Cats,
104, 114

Canker, 91

Canker, remedy for, 80

Care and management, 24-

3°
practical hints on, 31-

54
Castor oil, 84, 89

Cat, to poultice a, 51
Cat Club, the, 95, 96

Registration Rules of,

60
Cat Clubs and Cat Homes,

95-106

Col Journal, The, 105
Cats, Bone meal for, 49

cobby, 1 08

deafness of white, 108

dosing of, 51

•ears of, 90

•ear tufts in Persian, 72,
116

feeding of, 25, 43, 48

fleas and lice in, 50

fond of asparagus, 49

fondest of ribbon grass,

47

gelded, 30, 53

hake for, 49

.horseflesh for, 26, 48

liow to administer medi-
cine to, 47, 118

lentils for, 47

long-haired, 17, 60, 70

macaroni for, 44

male, 39, 62, 67

Maltese, 2 3, 98, 105, 106

Cats (continued) :-—
Manx, 22
naturally timid, 25
on approval, 112
shedding their coats, 50,

93

sheep's head for, 48
stud, 29, 39, 63, no,

116, 117, 118
tripe for, 45
varieties of short- and

long-haired, 60
vegetable diet for, 26, 47
water as a drink for, 46,

1 08
Catteries, out-of-door, 28, 35,

40

fumigating, 54
Chartreuse cats, 106
Chicago Cat Club, 97, 98
Chinchilla Cat Club, 96
Chinchillas, 19

points of, 20, 99
standard of points for,
in United States, 101
Coats, care of, 29, 50, 71, 75
Cobby cats, 108
Colds, remedy for, 81
Collar for cat, 108, 112, 117
Condition for exhibition, 57,

75
Constipation, remedies for,

74, 80, 81, 89
" Coon Cat," American, 23,

106
Cox, Mrs. Carew, and her

catteries, 105

Cream Persian cats, 21, 64
standard of points for,

100
Crossing of breeds, 55, 65,67

122

INDEX

D

DEAFNESS of white cats, 18,

108
Debility, remedy for, 80, 92,

tonics for, 91
Diarrhoea, 86

in kittens, 28, 32

remedy for, 80
Diseases and remedies, 77—

94

Disinfectants, 54, 113
Distemper, 79

remedies for, 92, in
Dosing of cats, 51, 53, 118
Dublin Cats' Home, 104
Dysentery, remedy for, 80

E

EARS of cats, 17, 34, 62, 90,

107
Ear tufts in Persian cats, 72,

116
Eczema, remedy for, 88

Black, remedy for 80, 87
standard of points for, 9 9
Eggs as food, 49
Enteritis, 78

Entries for shows, 69, 70, 73
Eucalyptus, 54, 80
Eucryl Company, prepara-
tions of the, 54, 113
Exhibiting, 57-61, 68-76,

102

Eyes, 17, 18, 21, 23, 52, 54,
55>65»75»85, 109,111
bad, in kittens, 68, 32
weak, 85

lotion for, 86

FEEDING of cats, 25, 36,

.43.

Fighting cats, how to sepa-
rate, 112

Fits, remedies for, 80, 90
Fleas and lice in cats and
kittens, 28,34, 38, 50,

5i

remedy for, 80, 82
Food, hints on, 43
Foster-mother, selection of a,

26
Foster-mothers, 27, 33, 36,

37, n5

Freeman's foods and medi-
cines, 25, 46, 77, 80, 84

Fur and Feather •, 105

G

GASTRITIS, 78, 8 1
Gelded cats, 30, 53
Gestation, period of, 26, 63
Gordon, Mrs., and her home

for starving cats, 104
Grass, 27, 47, 51, 93

ribbon, cats fondest of,

47

H

HAKE for cats, 49
Hampers, 36, 41, 69, 70, 72,

75, 107, 109, no
versus boxes, 41, 109
Handling of cats, 25, 35, 37,
112, 118

INDEX

123

Harper, Miss, and her cat-
teries, 105

Horseflesh for cats, 26, 48
Hot water bottles, 27, 41
Hovis bread, 44

INFLUENZA, 79, 81, 118
Insurance of cats, 70, no,
117

J

JAMES, Mr., 78, 80, 91
Jaundice, remedy for, 80
Judging at exhibitions, 57,
70, 71, 76

KEATING'S Powder, 38
Kittens, bad eyes in, 28, 32,

85

best way to destroy, 113
bread and milk for, 45
care and management

of, 31-34

diarrhea in, 28, 86, 87
feeding of, 2 7
fleas and lice in, 28, 38

5°
remedy for worms in,

8o.
sea-air recommended

for, 34, 119
shedding their first

teeth, 28, 33, 83, 84
sleep essential to, 36

Kittens (continued) : —
tripe for, 45
when they become cats,

IJ5 .
worms in, 28

Kreochyle, 36, 79, 80,8 1, 92

LABELS, exhibitors', 19, 70,

74

Lentils for cats, 47
Lights as food, 26, 48, 90
Liver very laxative, 46
Long-haired cats, 1 7
varieties of, 60
Louisville Cat Club, 97
Lubricating a cat's throat, 52

M

MACARONI for cats and

kittens, 44
Maine, curious cats in State

of, 1 06

Male cats, 29, 39
" Maltese " cat, the, 23,

1 06

Mange, remedy for, 80
Manx Cat Club, 97

cats, 22, 57, 115
Mating, 26, 55, 62-68, 118
Meat, 44, 46, 48
Medals, advice to winners

of, 72
Medicine, how to administer

to cats, 47, 118
Mellin's Food, 25, 27
Melox Food, the, 25

124

INDEX

Midland Counties Cat Club,

97
Milk, 27, 32, 34, 36, 46, 47,

52, 108
Morgan, Mrs., and her home

for lost and starving cats,

104, 114

Mothaline, 41, 80
Mother and young, care and

management of, 34-39

N

NAMES for cats, 112, 114
National Cat Club, 95

entry form, 103

Registration Rules of, 58
Neuters, 30, 53
Northern Counties Cat

Club, 96
Noses of cats, 113

OATMEAL as food, 25, 43
Orange cats, 20

crossed with a Black, 55
self or tabby, standard

of points for, 100
Orange, Cream, Fawn and

Tortoiseshell Society, 96
Our Cats, 105, 114

PACIFIC Cat Club, 97
Paper for bedding, 29, 42,
109

Paralysis, remedy for, 80
Pedigrees, 114, 117
Persian cat, tail of a, 107,

115, 116
Persian cais, 17, 38, 107

breeds and varieties, 1 7-

21

ear tufts in. 72, 116
Phoenix Food, the, 25, 27
Photographing kittens, in,

114
Playthings for kittens, 112,

114

Post-mortems, 117
Poulticing a cat, 5 1

RAIL, sending cats by, 69,

109, III, 112, 117

Remedies for diseases, 80
Ribbons for shows, 69, 74,

112
Ringworm, remedy for, 80,

87
Royal Cat of Siam, the, 22,

57
standard of points for,

101

Russian cat, the, 22, 82
points for, 102

SALUBRENE, 54

Salvo, his food and medi-
cines, 25, 77, 80, 84, 88, 93

Sanitary pans, 29, 32, 40,
41, 43, 114

INDEX

125

Sardines, 45
Scottish Cat Club, 96
Scratching out coats, 117
Scurvy spots, 51, 80
remedy for, 87
Sea-air recommended for

kittens, 34, 119
Self-coloured cats, 17, 64,

65> "5
Shaded Silvers, 19, 67

points of, 20, 99
Sheep's heads as food, 48
Short-haired Cat Club, 96
cats, 17, 21

standard of points

for, 1 02
varieties of, 60
Shows and exhibiting, 51-

61, 68-76, 102
Show pens, training for, 72
Shows, returning from, 68,

72, 74, 75, 93
Siamese cats, 22, 5?, 62
Siamese Club, 96
Sickness, remedy for, 47,

80
Silver and Smoke Persian

Cat Society, 96
Tabbies, 20

standard of points

for, 99
Silvers, 19

points of, 20, 99
Skin complaints, 87
Sleep essential to kittens,

36

Smokes, points of, 19, 100
Snuffles, 66, 88, 114
remedy for, 80
Society for the Protection of
Cats, 104

Spanish cats, 106

Special prizes, 68, 71, 73,

74, H3

Spotted Tabbies, 21
Spratts' cat travelling baskets,

no
Cod Liver Oil Puppy

Biscuits, 43
Stomach, inflammation of

the, 78

Stud cat, selection of, 63
cats, 28, 39, no, 117
fees, 39, 64

Sulphur, use of, 26, 51, 54
Sunburn, 107
Supper, food for, 26

TABBIES, Brown, 20, 56, 63,

65> 97

Silver, standard of points
for, 99

spotted, 21
Tallies, metal, 75
Tape worm, 52, 84

remedy for, 80
Teething, remedy for, 80
Temperature of cats, 90
Throats, remedies for sore,

52,9o
Tortoiseshell cat, the, 21,

66

Blue, 56
crossed with a Black,

55
standard of points for,

101

Tom very rare, 66
Tripe for cats, 45

126

INDEX

U

UNITED States, cats in the,

23> 97, 98> I05» jo6
Clubs in the, 97

VEGETABLE diet for cats, 26,47
Visits, registering of, 67, 68,
118

W

WARD, Mr., 38, 77, 78, 80,
87

Water as a drink for cats, 45,

46, 1 08
Weak limbs, remedy for, 26,

80
Weir, Mr. Harrison, pioneer

of cat shows, 95
Whiskers, 118
White Persian cats, 18, 65,

70, 112

cats not deaf, 108
spots, 1 8, 64
Winslow, Miss, 106
Worms, 52, 83
in kittens, 28
remedy for, 28, 50, 80,
82, 84, 115

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