HARVARD UNIVERSITY
LEGE
.;i '-'-h^m.
Ex Libris
Cat and Henry H. Bucher
Ijdyth'C^
X
/
■'4
COLONEL C. CHAILLE LONG-BEY.
CENTEAL AFEICA:
NAKED TRUTHS OF NAKED PEOPLE.
AN ACCOUNT OF EXPEDITIONS TO THE
LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA AND THE MAKRAKA NIAM-NIAM,
WEST OF THE BAHR-EL-ABIAD (WHITE NILE).
By col. C. JDR AlLLt LONG,
OF THE EGYPTIAN STAFF.
ILLUSTRATED FROM COLONEL LONG'S OWN SKETCHES.
Forsan et liiEC olim meniiniese juvabit.— V[kqil.
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
18 77.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by
Hakper & Brothers,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington.
INTRODUCTION.
On the evening of tlie 21st of July, 1875, in
response to an invitation from " La Societe de
Geographic de Paris," I had the honour to address
them upon a subject .which has awakened in France,
as elsewhere in Europe, the most profound interest
and sympathy — Expeditions in Central Africa.
The Volume which I now present to the public
is but a reproduction of the history of adventure
and exploration, of which an analysis only was
then given; and it occurs to me that I cannot
introduce it more appropriately than by the trans-
lation of my preliminary remarks made on that
occasion : —
" For several years an officer in the Egyptian
Army, I come more as a soldier than as a savant,
to submit to this distinguished Society a resume
of the incidents and results of two Expeditions
which I have recently made in Central Africa —
one to the Lake Victoria Nyanza, and the other
to the Makraka Niam-Niam country.
VI INTRODUCTION.
""Your illustrious geographer, Malte-Brun, lias
properly said that ' Egypt attaches Africa to the
civilized world ; ' and that * Africa is now the last
portion of the civilized world which awaits at the
hands of Europeans the salutary yoke of legis-
lation and culture.' "
Although it is not a European who has devoted
himself to this great work, it is one whose elevated
soul and advanced ideas have placed him in the
first rank of the progressive spirits of the cen-
tury, and made him in this regard the type and
pioneer of its civilization. He is not unknown to
you, for the world appreciates the genius of Ismail
Pacha, the Khedive of Egypt,, who, inspired alike
by the aspirations of Mehemet Ali and the tradi-
tions of the Roman epoch, has crowned the
splendours of his reign by the triumphant solution
of the problem of the Sources of the Nile.
Influenced by the judgment of kind and, per-
haps, too indulgent friends, I have prepared for
publication these " Naked Truths of Naked
People " in the crude language of a soldier, and
with the view alone of faithfully recounting the
stirring incidents of my different expeditions ; of
promulgating correct views respecting the country,
the nature and customs of the negro, and of pay-
ing an appropriate tribute to the character of the
enlightened Sovereign, under whose auspices the
work of Central African regeneration is being
carried forward.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PACK
Appointed Chief of Staflf — Farewell to Friends at Cairo
and Departure for Suez — Meet with M. Ferdinand
de Lesseps — Arrival at Suez and Departure for and
Arrival at Souakim— Bishareen or Amri Arabs . 1
CHAPTER ir.
Departure for Berber — Camel-riding — Solitude of the
Desert — Arrival at Hiab — The " Ship of the Desert"
— Arrival at Berber — Beautiful Gardens of Sheik
Halifa— Boat life on the Nile— The Tiger of
Shendy — Assassination of Ismail Pacha — Arrival at
• Khartoum ........ 7
CHAPTER III.
Khartoum — Its Present and Futui*e — Reception by the
Governor General — The Austrian Catholic Mission
— Dine with the Governor General— The " Sou-
danieh Corps " — Their Amusements — Dancing Girls
at Khartoum — Removal of the " Sod " (Matted
Grass) from the Nile — Destruction of Hippopotami
— Abou Saoud , . . . . . . H
Vlll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
PAGE
Embark for Gondokoro — Confluence of the waters of the
Bahr-el-Azrak and the Bahr-el-Abiad — Hassanieh
and Bagarrah Arabs — Island of Meroe and the
Queen of Sheba-Fashoda— The Chillouks— The
Dinkas — Kam Kom — The river Saubat — Wretched
state of the inhabitants — Their extreme ignorance
— Ant-hills — Bor — Arrival at Gondokoro . . 22
CHAPTER V.
Gondokoro— The " Canissa "—Graves of Mr. Higgin-
botham and M. Auguste Linant — Destructive
powers of the White Ants — Loron, the great Sheik
of the Bari — His Wife and Daughters — The Go-
vernor General returns to Khartoum — Despondency
— The connexion of the Lakes Victoria and Albert,
the Problem — Ba Beker — Death of Livingstone —
Determine on the Journey — My Companions — My
Staff— My Horse " Ugunda "—Heavy Rains , . 32
CHAPTER VL
Violent Storms and Rains — Affair at Mrooli — M'Tse,
King of Ugunda — Connexion of the Lakes Victoria
Nyanza and Albert — Desire to solve the Problem —
Preparations to Depart — My escort — Ba Beker —
Description of my " personnel " — Death of my horse
— The Dongolowee — Bid Raouf Bey a last adieu —
Cross the " Hor-el-Ramle "— " Gebel-el-Kelb "—
Hadid, the Iron Man of Fatiko — The Mogi Country
— -Massacre — Prepare for an Attack from the Mogi
Tribe — Their mass in front attacked and dispersed
— The Lahore — The Bahr-el-Asua — Miani's Tree
— Utter break-down of Kellerman — Porters dying
of fatigue are left unburied — Address of Gimmoro
— Arrival at Fatiko — Received with enthusiasm by
the Garrison ...... . . ,39
CONTENTS. IX
CHAPTER VII.
PAGE
Fatiko, its strong position — Adjutant-Major Abdallah —
Lango and Lobbohr — Wat-el-Mek — Merissa — Un-
savoury Milk — Dances of the Soudanieh Soldiers —
March Southward — Jungles, bogs — Elephant holes
— Fetid odours — Son of the ex-king Rionga — Pre-
pare to cross the Nile — Dangers from Hippopotami
and Crocodiles — Successful Passage of the River —
Foueira — Reception of Said and Abd-el-Rahman by
their former Comrades — The ex-king Rionga — Keba
Rega — Riongi Pottery — Obliged to leave the Albert
Nyanza question partially unsolved ... 66
CHAPTER VIII. j
March Southward — Changes in my troop — Arrival at ii
Kissembois — Kindly received by Rionga — Mosqui-
toes— Jungle fever — Pinto — Depart for Uguuda
— Cruelty of a Sheik — Filthy water — River Kafou
— General sickness — Uninteresting scenery — Fire
*' against the country " — Morako, the Sheik, makes
a raid — Enter Ugunda — Dreadful Roads of Putrid
Mud — The Grand Kahotah — Invitation to Ugunda
— Arrest of Ibrahim, my Dragoman — Illness of Said
— We march, preceded by the Kahotah, to the Court
of M'Tse— Flag of Ugunda— Body-guards of M'Tse
— Halted in front of the Palace — Taken for a
Centaur — Led to my Zeriba — Sound repose . . 80
CHAPTER IX.
Receive a Messenger from M'Tse — I set out and enter
within the Palace — Met by M'Tse — Interview with
M'Tse seated on his Throne — His Ministers make
their reports — The Kahotah seriously compromised,
saved by my excuse — I address the King in Arabic
— Dreadful Sacrifice of thirty victims in honour of
CONTENTS.
PAGE
my visit — Unjust imputations of Livingstone on
Speke — The interview finished M'Tse shows me his
Hareem — I return to my Zeriha — Sufferings from
Cold and want of Fuel 101
CHAPTER X.
Presents for M'Tse — He is delighted with the Electric
Battery — My desire to visit the Lake granted, but
my return by the River refused — His dread of Keba
Rega — Human Sacrifices — Illness of myself and
Staff — The Ugunda language — Ibn Batutah — The
Negro Race — M'Tse's Arab MS. — Invited to the
Palace — Anxieties of my Staff on my proposal to
return by the River — I suffer from Delirium — Ba
Beker becomes my bitter enemy — Ugunda : features
of the country; its products; its industry, trade,
«&c. — Its Government, arms, population — Its Saluta-
tions— On slightly recovering I am invited to the
Palace — On my arrival another Sacrifice takes
place, the price of his granting my request — Appre-
hensions of Said and Abd-el — At M'Tse's request I
put them through the Manual Exercise — I take
leave of M'Tse and prepare to start for the Lake
Victoria Nyanza — Delayed by illness — News of
Lieutenant Cameron . . . . . .112
CHAPTER XL
Start for the Lake Victoria Nyanza — Murchison Creek
— Description of the boats — Land for the Night —
Nogarah — The Fleet — Waters of the Lake — Sound-
ings— Islands in the Lake — M'Tse gives secret
instructions not to cross the Lake — I reluctantly
return to Murchison Creek — Discover Selim —
Attacked with fever — Baulked by Ba Beker — I
make preparations to depart for Foueira . ,136
CONTENTS. • XI
CHAPTER XIL
PACK
Presents from M'Tse — Depart from Ugunda— The cli-
mate of the Equator — Hostility of the Mtongoli and
his men — Desertion of the escort — I complain to
M'Tse and recover some of my luggage — Our
marches continually interrupted by deluges of rain
— Dense forests — A Marsalah brings me food —
Arrival at Urondogani — A Mtongoli presents me
with eight young ladies from M'Tse — Three of
them marry my Soldiers — Daughter of M'Tse —
Punishment of Ibrahim — Marches by the river —
Head-quarters of the Admiral of the River Fleet —
Hospitalities — My horse Ugunda — Present re-
maining young ladies to the faithful Mtongoli —
Retain the boys — Selim 144
CHAPTER XIII.
The Descent of the river — The small-pox — Keba
Rega's Boat — Desertion of my Escort, who fear to
advance or return — Panic of my St&ff — Instructions
to Selim — We start again — Encountered by a Storm
we land for the night — Flight of Savages — Gebel
M'Tingi — Torrents of rain — Lake Ibrahim — Lilies
— Papyrus Jungles — Savages — Continual Storms —
Endeavour to find the Bed of the River — The Polar
Star, our beacon of safety — The boats filling with
water we are in great danger — We regain the river
— We are compelled to land — Anxiety to meet
Selim 156
CHAPTER XIV.
Entering the Stream I fire a signal — No response —
Hostile fleet of Boats sent by Keba Rega — Parley
with the Sheik — We attack — The Leader is killed
— Several Boats with their Crews sunk — I am
wounded — The Savages renew the attack, but are
XU CONTENTS.
PAGE
finally dispersed by our fire, and make for the Shore
— Heavy losses of the Savages — Fire my only
Eocket, which fails — Adam and Kellerman — Mount
Kikungura — Distant Nogarah heard — Detachment
from Foueira — Meet old Comrades — Ludicrous inci-
dent— Meet Baba-Tuka and the ex-king Rionga —
Foueira — The Problem of the Albert Nyanza re-
luctantly abandoned — Pleasant Reunion . . .174
CHAPTER XV.
Short stay at Foueira — I charge Keba Rega with the
attack at Mrooli — Suleiman now Ambassador replies
— Wat-el-Mek— The Slave-Trade— My Men im-
prove in Health at Foueira — My wound slowly heals
— Suicide of a Mtongoli from jealousy — Negro
honour — Capture of a huge Boa — Selim and Sulei-
man, my Sais, with the four disobedient Mtongoli,
arrive in Camp — Punishment of Selim for not obey-
ing orders — The Mtongoli appealing to me, I write
to M'Tse on their behalf — Messenger from Fatiko —
Unable to receive assistance from the garrison I pre-
pare to leave Foueira . , . . . .188
CHAPTER XVI. •
I bid farewell to Foueira and Baba-Tuka — Crossing the
river we march through the jungle — Arrive at Fatiko
— Receive a warm welcome — Kindness of Adjutaut-
Major Abdallah — Visited by the Sheiks— Character
of the Fatiki — I am attacked with Fever and De-
lirium— Receiving an escort and convoy for ivory, I
leave Fatiko — Old Bakhite — Cross the Hor-el-
Asua — Laughable Scene — Unmolested by the Mogi
— Cross the Hor-el-Ramle — Regaf — Tiib Agha, the
Commandant, tells me the vague Rumours that pre-
ceded us — Arriving at Gondokoro, welcomed by the
Governor General and Abou Saoud — Death of M.
Auguste Linant . . . . . . .198
CONTENTS. Xlll
CHAPTER XVII.
PAGE
Interval between the Ugunda Expedition and the Expedi-
tion to Makraka Niam-Niam — Return to Khartoum
— Despatches of the Governor General to his High-
ness— Reply of his Highness, the Prince Minister of
War, Hussein Pacha, announcing my Nomination as
Colonel, and Decoration — My deplorable State — Con-
valescence and dinner at Palace of Djaffer Pacha —
Consul General Hanzell — Visit of Abou-Saoud —
Return to Lado — Passing exploration of the Saubat
— Preparations for the Expedition to Makraka Niam-
Niam . ' 212
CHAPTER XVIII.
Departure from Lado — Halt at Laguno — Entertained b}'
the Sheik Morbi, w^ho accompanies us — The Mak-
raka Niam-Niatn pictured to the troops as a Moham-
medan Paradise — Excessive heat — " Simmim " butter
—"Striking oil"— Gebel Meri— Gebel Miah— The
dead rider — The Yanbari — Fortified Zeribas — Poi-
soned weapons — Euphorbes Arborescentes — Give
presents to the Sheik of the Yanbari — One of my
soldiers wounded — The arrow being poisoned he dies
— The " Hor Yeh " — Camp of Latroche — Settlement
of my force in two detachments — Collection of 300
to 400 young girls— Several of them are married to
the force — Inhabitants slightly Anthropophagic — The
Niam-Niam demand revenge on the Yanbari — Start
for Makraka Assariah 24()
CHAPTER XIX.
The Sheik of Makraka -"Ticki-Ticki," Akka woman-
Interesting interview with her — Hear of a race west-
ward of Makraka with monstrous ears — The Sheik
Parafio— His numerous wives and children— Gebel
XIV CONTENTS.
PAGK
Lingeterre— Fadlallah— The "Mittoo" tribe— "Goo-
rah-Goorah," a present from Fadlallah — Takeu ill at
Khartoum, I am compelled to leave her — Anthropo-
phagy, the result of necessity — The Niam-Niam Ant-
eaters — Marriage — Night attack by a Dongolowee —
Return to Makraka Assariah — "Congo" dance — '
Elephant Hunting — Achmet Agha — Grand dance —
Music— Prepare to return — Enlistment of Niam-
Niam men — Mundo Niam-Niam Boy — Abou Lange . 262
CHAPTER XX.
Return to Lado — Irregulars advanced to the " Yeh " —
Join them in the morning — Improved health and
spirits — The Yanbari oppose our passage through a
defile — Their complete Defeat by the Niam-Niam and
my regular force — Burning of villages — Suspicious
fires — Cannibalism of the Niam-Niam — Imminent
peril from a Boa — Snake stories — Monstrous Flies —
Arrival at Lado — Received with honours by the
garrison — Firmans of Sultan Abd-el-Aziz and his
Highness the Khedive conferring on me the Order
of the Medjidieh and the rank of Colonel — With
suggestions as to Keba Rega, Rionga, the Dongolo-
wee, &c., I return to Cairo ..... 283
CHAPTER XXI.
Departure for Cairo — Said and Abd-el-Rahman accompany
me — Arrival at Khartoum — The captive Sultan of
Darfour — Arrival at Berber — Hamed Halifa — Major
Prout — Cross the Desert on a Camel — The Mirage —
Korosko — Assouan — Philae — Meet some Euiopean
Friends — Siout — Arrival at Cairo — Receive a Mes-
sage from his Highness the Khedive — Summoned to
the Palace, I make my presents to his Highness, of my
Ethnological specimens, &c. — Said and Abd-el-Rah-
CONTENTS. XV
VAGIi
man receive Promotion and the Medjidieh at the
Court of his Highness the Khedive — Inauguration of
New Geographical Society at Cairo .... 293
CHAPTER XXII.
Results of the Expedition to Ugunda and the Lake Vic-
toria Nyanza — Also of the Expedition to the Malc-
raka Niam-Niam Country — Sir Samuel Baker and
the width of the River at Mrooli — My opinion of the
Negro — Mr. Stanley and the conversion of M'Tse —
The Slave-Trade and the Khedive — Seyyid Burgash
and Zanzibai" — The opening up of the Interior by the
Soudan Railway and River Communication the most
effectual means for the regeneration of Central
Africa ......... 305
Postscript 316
APPENDIX.
jjote— the River Juba 327
Vocabulary of Words selected from Languages spoken by
Tribes in Central Africa 329
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE,
Col. C. Chaille Long, Egyptian Array . , Frontispiece
Bishareen or Amri Arab ...... 6
"View of Khartoum ....... 14
Scene on the Bahr-el-Abiad ...... 28
View of Gondokoro ....... 32
Successful Passage of the River . . . . .75
Flag of Ugunda ........ 96
Airival at the Palace of M'Tse 1*02
Sacrifice of Victims in honour of Visit to King M'Tse . 106
M'Tse, daughter of King M'Tse . . . . .151
Ugunda Boy . . . . . . . .155
Attacked by the Fleet of Keba Rega . . . .177
Capture of a Boa Constrictor . . . . .193
Euphorbes Arborescentes ...... 254
" Ticki-Ticki," Akka Woman 264
Makraka Niam-Niam and Ticki-Ticki .... 267
Parafio and (sample) Wife ...... 268
IS iam-Niam girls catching Ants ..... 274
Mundo, a Niam-Niam Boy of Twelve Ycais . . .281
Attacked by the Yanbari 286
Said Bagarrah and Abd-el-Rahman .... 302
.N.-W Viirk . Ilarpe i I'.n.il.i
CENTEAL AFEICA.
CHAPTER I.
Appointed Chief of Staff— Farewell to Friends at Cairo and
Departure for Suez — Meet with M. Ferdinand de Lesseps
— Arrival at Suez and Departure for and Arrival at
Souakim — Bishareen or Amri Arabs.
The morning of the 21st of February, 1874, a
special train was in waiting at the Cairo station,
to convey to Suez Colonel C, Gr. Gordon, C.B., of
.the Royal Engineers of the English army, the
newly-appointed Governor General of the Equa-
torial Provinces of Egypt, whose objective point, as
prospective seat of government, was Gondokoro,
In the twenty-four hours preceding departure
the VTriter had been designated, by request of
Colonel Gordon, as Chief of Staff of the Expedi-
tion, and with him Lieutenant Hassan Wassif,
Aide-de-Camp, also an officer of the General Staff
of the Egyptian army.
A host of friends were in attendance to bid me
adieu ; not alone my comrades in arms, but many
from a large circle of friends from the European
B
^ CENTRAL AFEICA.
colony, with whom during my several years of
service in Egypt a strong reciprocal attachment
existed. A kindly interest evinced in my fate in
the hazardous expedition undertaken, and a warm
and generous sympathy on my return to Cairo,
merit mention here, as a poor tribute of gratitude
for what must ever be to me a source of pleasant
reminiscence. Central Africa, with all its seduc-
tive fields of allurement to the adventurous, could
not but be regarded as a bourne from which but
few travellers returned, a path of glory that led
but to the grave : in this sense, without doubt,
the kindly and affectionate adieux were proffered.
Alas ! that, from among that sympathetic circle
on that morning, on more than one, who with
anxious face waved me a last farewell, the cold
hand of death was to be laid, ere my return from
months of community with what, in advance,
seemed to devote me to a like fate.'
To resume, Ibrahim-Bey Tewfick, then an
officer of the Staff, had been appointed by his
Highness the Khedive to accompany this advanced
guard of the expedition to Suez, where the
steamer " Latif " was already in waiting.
The rear-guard, that was left to follow with all
the stores and equipment, was in charge of Major
Campbell. It counted in its ranks M. Auguste
^ Auguste Linant de Bellefonds died at Gondokoro ; Major
Campbell, at Kliai toum ; Colonel F. Reynolds at Ilium, New
York.
ARRIVAL AT SUEZ. 3
Linant de Bellefonds and others, conspicuous
among wliom was the now famous " Abou Saoud,"
released from prison, and made a member of the
expedition at the instance of the successor of Sir
Samuel Baker.
Nothing of note marked the transit to Suez
save that M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, the Father of
the Suez Canal, who, in company with two young
ladies of his household had left Ismailia on horse-
back, and being overtaken by the shades of night
when near our halted train, asked to be taken
into our waggon, accompanying us as far as the
station " Bir-Nefiche ;" where to our great regret
they left us, not without, however, a pressing
invitation to stop the night at Ismailia, an honour
that we were forced to decline.
The train arrived at Suez at midnight, where,
through very winding ways, we found at last
that " British Hotel " whose name should rather
be " Supplice des Voyageurs." To run the muck
of its dirty Indian servants and abominable
" cuisine " without a sour mind and a sour
stomach, would imply indeed a callous nature.
As a jumping-off place, however, from civilization
it may serve to reconcile one, by comparison, to
whatever ills prospective African travel may
impose.
The morning of the 22nd hasty letters were
written and despatched from the " Latif," the
boat desio-nated to take us to Souakim. At ten
4 CENTEAL AFRICA.
o'clock the order to heave anchor was given,
friendly salutations were exchanged, the last
adieu had been said, our courteous escort had
gone, and the steamer was soon ploughing
the waters of the Gulf of Suez. The landscape
was quickly fading out of sight. As I looked
down from the steamer's deck into the depths of
the mirrored placid surface of the waters that
day, they seemed to reflect sunshine upon the
long untrodden path that was to be mine, dis-
persing the sombre shadows that would come and
go, for
" A feeling of sadness comes o'er me
That my soul cannot resist,"
as I think of home and friends, and the
mysterious future that awaits me in Central
Africa,
The passage was made quickly and without
accident. The 25th, at three o'clock p.m., we
arrived before Souakim, whose low sea-coast had
been sighted since mid-day, The formalities of
quarantine, then existing, detained us till the
morning of the 26th, when we disembarked and
were hospitably received and entertained by
Eliadin Bey, the Governor.
Souakim has been too often described in books
of travel to need an extended notice here ; a
village built of coral stone, its importance may be
inferred from the vast quantity of sacs of gum
BISHAREEN AND AMEI ARABS. 5
arable piled up on its quay, or being placed in
boats by the stalwart negro, wbose well-oiled skin
alone protects him from the blazing sun and
intense heat that is refracted from sand and
whitened coral, almost blinding in its rays.
Other products of the Soudan and Abyssinia find
here easy export ; and occasional caravans of
ivory seek this route rather than the Korosko
desert and the Nile, if intended for the India or
China trade, where the supply is not equal to the
consumption. The natives, except the Arab
merchants and the negroes of the Soudan, are the
Bishareen and Amri Arabs, a mixed race of
pastoral Nomads, whose occupation here is camel-
driving in caravans, in the transit of the desert
between this and Berber on the Nile, 288 miles
distant. These men are of a peculiar type ; and a
description of one will answer for all.
A small piece of cloth encircles his loins ; short
in stature, with well carved, though very delicate
limbs, he resembles the gazelle in his quick and
graceful step. His food is chiefly goat's milk.
His hair, grown to an enormous bushy mass, is a
subject of greatest care and vanity, and every
leisure moment on the wayside is spent in
straightening out, " his knotted and combined
locks," over which is spread a plaster of
tallow of deadly odoured smell, which drips in
great streams when in the sun, or forms a
whitened crust upon his head and shoulders
6 CENTRAL AFEICA.
when not thus exposed. These people, however
indifferent to rank and position when once you
are under their escort in the desert, are here, as
you meet them, ever ready to extend politeness,
and invariably rise to their feet, if seated, as you
pass them in the streets or bazaars. A stroll
through the irregular streets developes little that
can interest; in its little bazaar are chiefly
BISHAEEEN OE AMEI AEAB.
exposed articles of camel's harness, saddles, and
ropes, and long knives, and a formidable-looking,
but really inoffensive sword with a wondrous huge
straight blade. The unhealthy smell of grease
however, and a burning sun will, I am sure, deter
the most ardent sis^htseer from" doino; " Souakim
for any length of time.
CHAPTER 11.
Departure for Berber— Camel-riding — Solitiule of the Desert
—Arrival at Hiab— The " Ship of the Desert "—Arrival
at Berber — Beautiful Gardens of Sheik Halifa — Boat Life
on the Nile — The Tiger of Shendy — Assassination of
Ismail Pacha — Arrival at Khartoum.
The 28th, accompanied by a guard of fifteen
soldiers, the caravan provided for us by Eliadin-
Bey, the Governor, started for Berber, 288 miles
distant.
Seven days of forced marches on camel-back,
by night and day, is by no means a pleasure
trip ; the eccentric movement of the camel, the
monotony, the suffering from thirst, and the hot
scorching waste of sand by day, the cold by night,
the weird dusky figure of camel and driver as he
silently creeps along in the dim shadow, all tend
to fatigue and sleep. The painful effort to resist
the latter becomes a torture. More than once, no
longer enchained by day dreams and fancies,
memory of home and friends, I succumbed to its
influence, and pitched headlong from the giddy
height, that for the moment seems as high as
Olympus as you seek in vain to arrest your fall.
O CENTRAL AFRICA.
when bruised and half dead to regain jour seat,
with maledictions against camel locomotion, or to
walk on until you have recovered, by violent
exercise, the proper possession of your faculties
benumbed by want of rest.
The desert is a howling waste of sand ; whilst
over it a solitude reigns -more terrible than that
conceived by Byron, when in " Childe Harold " he
says,—
" But midst the crowd, the hum, the shock of men.
To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess,
And roam along, the world's tired denizen< —
With none who bless us, none whom we can bless.
* w tF w w w
This is to be alone ; this, this is solitude."
This is not all ; the trackless way is marked by
countless carcasses of camels, and shapeless mounds
of unnumbered graves, rudely marked by heaps of
stones, " implore the passing tribute of a sigh,"
as the last resting-place of the rude savage guide
of the desert. On the 3rd of March we arrived at
Hiab, the half-way station and watering spot;
here, reposing for a few hours, the Bishareen and
Amri Arabs collected around us. The sight of an
empty bottle gave the wildest delight, whilst the
exhibition of a small mirror caused them to start
back affrighted, and to regard me with looks of
terror and superstition.
I extract from my Itinerary : —
" 6th of March. — ' En route,' five o'clock p.m..
ENDUEANGE OF TH0 CAMEL. 9
marcli all night : painful naps upon the camel's
back. The whole party has relapsed into silence,
and the hitherto noisy chatter of our soldier escort
is hushed in fatigue. We make continuous travel
of eighteen hours, arriving at station ' Obak ' at
eleven o'clock a.m. of the sixth. The heat is
excessive, and our guide reports that he has lost
the track of the well ; fortunately we have sufficient
water for our men, but the camels are sorely tried
and give signs of failing strength. We find the
well at last, and after a meagre repast bivouac
and go to sleep.
" It may not be uninteresting to note here the
extravagant powers of endurance attributed to
that most useful ' Ship of the Desert,' the camel.
The popularly received notion that the camel may
go eight to ten days without water has no founda-
tion ; in fact, three to four days is the limit, and
unless his strength be greatly economized he will
succumb the fourth day. His vaunted docility
is generally the result of advanced age ; for when
young he is vicious and at times ungovernable ; the
many dashes from our ranks was a proof of this,
causing the hapless rider to bite the dust, relieving
often the tedium of the route in the merriment
that ensued at the mishap. Unlike- other animals
he does not possess the instinct that protects them
against poisonous herbs : and the mostcareful atten-
tion on the part of his driver is necessary to avoid
thenotunfrequentcasesof his death from this reason.
10 CET^THAL AFRIOA.
" 8th of March. — After mucli fatigue we reacli
Berber, having accomplished the distance in eight
days. Hamed Halifa, the veteran Sheik of the
desert caravans, receives us : and invited to his
home, our quick transit is a subject of fehcitation
on all sides (except my side) ; for bruised and
jaded, I tacitly plead exception to the apprecia-
tion of these doubtless well-meant congratula-
tions."
Berber is a collection of low mud-huts, with
here and there a building only that has the pre-
tensions of a house of European style or con-
struction : its tall palm and acacia trees, and the
beautiful gardens of Sheik Halifa give it a certain
charm and beauty, as it rises like a phantom city
to the vision of the weary and heat-oppressed tra-
veller, as he emerges from the sandy plains of
the desert.
The dress of the Berber woman is very primitive,
whilst the unmarried wear a simple leather fringe
around their loins, only this, and nothing more.
Preparations having been quickly made, we
prepared to quit Berber, and on the morning of
the 9th of March, in two nuggers (Nile boats), we
left for Khartoum. Here commenced our " boat
life on the Nile," made up of angry and, I fear,
maledictory protestations with that great per-
sonage the Re'is, — not this one in particular, but
reises in general ; shooting at crocodiles that lazily
sun themselves upon the " shallals " (rocks) in
THE TIGER OF SHENDY. 11
the river, that our unwilling boatmen insisted
might not he passed till "bokara" (the mor-
row).
March 10th. — We passed Shendy, in the past a
great commercial town, and to-day of much impor-
tance as an " entrepot " of caravans from Darfour
and Kordofan. Designated as the terminus of the
Soudan railway coming ft-om Wady Halfai, this
place is destined to play no unimportant "role"
in the great flow of trade that must pour from
its ancient trading grounds, connecting with
Khartoum by steamer, to which point the naviga-
tion by light-draft steamers is always practicable.
Shendy is no less renowned as the place where
Ismail Pacha, the son of the great Mehemet Ali,
was assassinated in 1821, and was in reprisal
razed to the ground by the Egyptians.
The story throws much light on Eastern
character. Sent by his father to obtain tribute
and submission from the ferocious chief who had
been the scourge of the country, and who himself
had earned the soubriquet of the " Tiger of
Shendy " — the prince's first night as an unbidden
guest proved his last.
Pitching his tents, Ismail summoned " the
Tiger " to his presence, and peremptorily com-
manded him to furnish large rations and supplies
for his troops forthwith, as well as to pay a heavy
indemnity the next morning. With feigned
humility the " Tiger of Shendy " pleaded poverty
12 CENTRAL AFRICA.
of himself and people, and declared his utter
inability to comply with the demand.
In his wrath at this reply Ismail inflicted upon
him the unpardonable insult of striking him over
the head with the pipe which he was smoking,
saying, " Dog and liar, unless you immediately
comply with my orders, I'll have you scourged
through the camp by my soldiers."
Apparently stricken with terror, and true to his
name, " the Tiger " crouched, feigned immediate
and absolute submission, and left his unsuspecting
guest with the remark, " You shall have, not only
all the forage you want, but more."
All that night, amid all the gaiety of the camp,
the Prince and his suite remarked with satisfac-
tion the immense quantities of forage that the
tribe were piling around the circuit of the
tents, especially the huge piles around those of
himself and suite. They understood better the
meaning of the " Tiger's " parting speech when,
awakened before the dawn of day, they found them-
selves encircled by a girdle of flame : to prevent
escape from which the " Tiger " and his tribe with
levelled lances stood sentry, until the Prince and
his whole force were roasted alive, in revenge for
the insult, and Shen^y thus made a historic spot.
Mehemet Ali to avenge this reprisal sent his
son-in-law, the savage Defterdar, who razed the
town, but the " Tiger " escaped into the interior,
and was never captured or punished.
AliRlVAL AT KHAETOUM. 13
The 12tli of March, we met to our satisfaction
a steamer sent by the Governor General of Khar-
toum, Ismail Pacha Ayoub, and leaving our slow
nugger, to go on board the steamer, we arrived
at Khartoum on the morning^ of the 13th of March
— twenty days from our leaving Cairo.
CHAPTER III.
Khartoum — Its Present and Future — Reception by the Go-
vernor General — The Austrian Catholic Mission — Dine
with the Governor General — The " Soudanieh Corps " —
Their Amusements — Dancing Girls at Khartoum — Re-
moval of the " Sotl " (Matted Grass) from the Nile-
Destruction of Hippopotami— Abou Saoud.
Khartoum, on the left bank of the Bahr-el Azrak
VIEW OF KHiETOUM.
(Bhie Nile), about two miles south t'rom its con-
fluence with the Bahr-el-Abiad (White Nile), is
DESCRIPTION OF KHARTOUM. 15
thus embraced in the acute angle formed by the
two rivers. A city numbering perhaps 30,000
inhabitants, its commercial importance is already
recognized as a great entrepot of products of
Central Africa, the newly acquired' equatorial
Lake districts, and the country south-west of
Darfour, from which great stores of ivory will
come. Caravans of ivory, ebony, ostrich feathers,
are sent over the great Atmoor or Korosko desert,
and find their way to Cairo : whilst grain (dourah),
cotton, gum, in exchange for European goods,
render Khartoum a place of great commercial
activity. The railroad in course of construction
to Shendy will connect by steamer with this place :
and will soon give it importance, not alone as to
its commerce, but will place a point heretofore
remote within easy distance of an army of sight-
seers, sacred to them perhaps as a horrid slave
depot. Europe, thus brought unceremoniously
to the front door of Central Africa, may then,
face to face with the negro fresh from his
African home, compare him with the picture of
" Uncle Tom," or the sentimental portraits that
have depicted him as he ought to be, and not
as he is.
The street that borders the river-side looks
down upon the water from a bluff-like elevation ;
here and there are the stately palm-trees and
large gardens of citron and orange-trees, whilst
the neatly whitewashed constructions, relieved by
16 OENTEAL APEIOA.
minaret and mosque, give it the air of an Egyptian
city. The streets are irregular, narrow, and
badly drained ; and thus in the rainy season great
pools of stagnant water throw off their deadly
miasma, generating the fevers that are still
prevalent, but are yearly becoming less frequent.
Certainly outside of the city, or on the opposite
bank of the river, in the desert, I believe it to be
perfectly healthy. The European population is
composed principally of Greek, and a few Italian
merchants, chiefly engaged in the sale of wines,
raki, beer, canned fruits, meats, and vegetables;
the Arab, Turk, and Copt controlling till of late
years, the Dongolowee element, that are recruited
here as irregular soldiers, or ivory hunters for the
interior of Africa, by the ivory merchants, who
arm, equip, and furnish them with the necessary
" suc-suc " (beads) and other trumpery, for which
ivory is exchanged by the savage. A palace and
several well-built government buildings face the
river-side, where a well-built quay with stone
staircase gives easy descent to the steamers that
lie alongside.
His Excellency the Governor General received
us with marked attention : troops were paraded,
and a salvo of guns announced our arrival. The
European colony came to present their respects,
represented by the Consul General of Austria,
the Superintendent of the Soudan Telegraph, and
the Apostolic Vicar of the Austrian Catholic Mis-
DINE WITH THE GOVEBNOU GENERAL. 17
sion, whose immense building in the midst of a
garden of pahn and orange groves was a never-
ending source of pleasure to me during my conva-
lescence months afterwards in Khartoum, when I
became the recipient of many presents of fruit from
Monseigneur Camboni, the energetic and zealous
head of the Mission. I have to add here my grate-
ful obligations for the kindness and care extended
to a comrade who died subsequently within its
hospitable walls.
Among those who came also to offer their
respects was a very dirty Cyclopic Copt, with a
very dirty shirt; his Excellency the American
Consul at Khartoum, bought and paid for, if you
please !
The ]8th of March we were invited to dine
with the Governor General : a large number of
guests were assembled, including officers of the
army, in addition to those mentioned above. The
repast, served in European style, left nothing to be
desired, and Mr. Hanzell, the Consul General, was
particularly happy in the post-prandial speech
delivered in Arabic, in which in his private and
official character he wished success to the succes-
sor of Baker Pacha. The spacious " divan " was
filled with guests, whilst the courtyard without-
held a battalion of soldiers recruited from the
'•Dinka" and " Chillouk " tribes of the Bahr-el-
Abiad, and as well a few from the countries of
Darfour and Kordofan; all happy in the con-
C
18 CENTRAL AFRICA.
sciousness of their elevated position as soldiers,
and pride of their white uniforms, in such strange
contrast to the inky hue of their skin. These
different tribes compose the " Soudanieh Corps ;"
in face and form ugly, sometimes hideous, they are
none the less excellent and devoted soldiers. To
beguile the tedium of time the " theatro," or
dance and song, is the almost nightly recreation
in the Soudan ; and recourse was now had to the
dance, or " Kamalalah," as known to the soldiers.
Lamps were hung around, illuminating a scene
new to me, yet bringing back to memory scenes of
other days in my far-off home in the " sunny
south " when I stole away from the parental eye
to Uncle Tom's cabin, there to revel in childish
delight in the dance, banjo, and plantation
melodies of the happy Sambo. The fiddle and
bow of "Old Uncle Ned" is silent now, and
these scenes have " gone glimmering through the
dream of things that were," to give place to the
busy wheel of progress, that has crushed beneath
its iron pressure the bonds of slavery in America,
and made the slave if a wiser, by no means a
merrier man.
There was a scene in the entertainment to
which I was an entire stranger. Twelve girls of
mixed Abyssinian type were introduced, who, with
shuffling step and a peculiar clucking sound
made by compression of the lips against the
teeth, moved in concert to the tum-tum evoked
DANCING GIRLS OF KHARTOUM:. 19
from a tambourine in the hands of an Arab
musician. A girdle of leathern strips encircled
the waist only (the sole attempt at dress) ;
the neck, arms, and legs Avere encased in well-
wrought steel and copper bracelets, whose clink-
ing kept time to the music, as they defiled in
review.
These girls are under the superintendence of a
director or manag^er : and all neg;otiations for
exhibitions, here often called into requisition at
" fantasiahs," at reunions, and at marriages, are
made through him.
A just tribute should here be rendered to Ismail
Pacha Ayoub, the Governor General, for the
accomplishment of the removal of the " sod "
(matted grass) that had defied the eff'orts of Sir
Samuel Baker, barring the passage of the river-
southward between the Bahr-el-Ghazal and the
Bahr-el-Girafie, and compelling the latter's retreat
to Tewfickeyeh, in the month of April, 1870,
where, a few miles south of the mouth of the
Saubat, encamped in a pestiferous marsh, many
fell victims to the fever. A few weeks before our
arrival, the Governor General at the head of a
battalion of Soudan soldiers addressed himself to
the work, in order to open communication with
Gondokoro, then in his command. The unwieldy,
putrid mass of vegetable matter, after three weeks
of indefatigable labour, yielded to the efforts of the
devoted band, many of whom fell a prey to the
20 CENTEAL AFRICA.
malaria, malignant fevers, and dysentery, or living
still, are victims to the dread " guinea worm," that
infests the water and marshes of these rivers.
At the moment that the tightly-wedged mass of
" sod " gave way, a mass of hippopotami, with
which the river from this point to its source is
wonderfully full, were borne in its inextricable
embrace, pressed in and crushed to a jelly, whilst
the air resounded with their horrid and terrified
roars. A Nile boat was carried away at the same
time, and disappeared beneath the crash of " sod,"
that/ now with severed fragments was to drift
away with the current.
The Governor General was highly pleased with
his success, and assured us that our journey to
Gondokoro by steamer would be uninterrupted.
The news was indeed grateful ; for the considera-
tion of the means of removing this obstacle had
occupied our serious attention en route; and
this accomplished, our expedition began under
auspices that transferred at once the scene
of operations to Gondokoro. It may not be
foreign to the subject to allude here to the un-
favourable impression produced upon government
officials and the well-wishers to the expedition, on
learning that Abou Saoud was on his way to join
us, that he had been renominated ; and would go
to Gondokoro in connexion with the administra-
tion of the Equatorial Provinces ; for in Khartoum
Abou was looked upon as inimical to the interests
APPOINTMENT OF ABOU SAOUD. 21
of the Government in these res-ions. Reference
to him will be hereafter made, and his true con-
nexion with the Expedition and final fate be fully
shown.
CHAPTER ly.
Embarl^ for Gondokoro — Confluence of the waters of the
Buhr-cl-Azrak and the Bahr-el-Abiad — Hassanieh and
Bagarrah Arabs — Island of Meroe and the Queen of
Sheba — Fashoda — The Chillouks — Tlie Dinkas — Kam
Kom— The river Saubat — Wretched state of the in-
habitants— Their extreme ignorance — Ant-liills — Bor —
Arrival at Gondokoro.
On the morning of tlie 22nd of March, every
preparation had been made for departm^e ; seven
steamers then at Khartoum were to ply between
that place and Gondokoro in the service of the
Equatorial Provinces. It is but just to say here
that Sir Samuel Baker had brought out from
England, and had superintended the construction
of these boats of light draft, and capable of
ascending th'e Nile as far as Gondokoro, the
highest navigable point north of the Rapids, if
I may except a short period during the rainy
season, when Gebel Regaf may be reached, fifteen
miles farther south, not however without difficulty.
Having breakfasted "a la turque" with the
Governor General, we embarked on the steamer,
No. 9, waiting to receive us, amid a salvo of guns.
CONFLUENCE OP THE WATEES. 23
and tlie kind adieu of the "hundreds collected to
wish success to the new Equatorial Government.
The waters of the Bahr-el-Azrak and the Bahr-
el-Abiad at their confluence are clearly marked, as
the pure waters of the former commingle with the
discoloured waters of the latter. A parallel here
may be drawn between the junction of the waters
of the Mississippi and Missouri, where the turbid
waters of the former strike the limpid and tran-
quil stream of the latter, projecting themselves
across its bosom, making a well-defined line
of discoloured water in its invasion of the purer
stream.
As the steamer turns the point at the junction,
and enters the Bahr-el-Abiad at a slackened speed
in stemming its swift current, I cast a long-
lingering look behind, as the last haunt of civiliza-
tion fades from view, ere I turn to brave the
uninviting future that awaits the traveller in
Central Africa.
" Now Harold found himself at length alone,
And bade to Christian tongues a long adieu.
Now he adventured on a shore unknown,
Which all admire, but many dread to view.
His breast was arm'd 'gainst fate, his wants were few ;
Peril he sought not, but ne'er shrank to meet.
The scene Avas savage, but the scene was new ;
This made the ceaseless toil of travel sweet."
The two shores of the Bahr-el-Abiad, for a
considerable distance, are not uninteresting;
dotted here and there by trees and undergrowth,
24 CENTRAL AFEICA.
at intervals great flocks of wild geese, ducks, and
pelicans ; herds of cattle and slieep browse upon
its grass-covered shores. Further on, we see the
straw-mat huts of the Hassanieh and Bagarrah
Arabs, who occupy both banks of the river from
this point till near Fashoda; pastoral nomads,
they resemble the Bedouins of the Desert, whilst
in colour, contour of figure, and delicate limbs,
surrounded as they are here on all sides by negro
races, they invite a study of their obscure origin,
a puzzle to ethnologists that may not admit other
than mere speculation.
Herodotus speaks of the Egyptian troops to the
number of 240,000 stationed at the isle of Ele-
phantis (Philae), who deserted to the King of
Ethiopia, assigning as a reason "their non-payment
and non-displacement for a period of three years,"
replying to the expostulations of Psammeticus in
thus quitting their country and wives, in terms
so "bizarre," and so untranslateable "to ears
polite," that we must refer thereto, to Herodotus
himself. M. Caillaud, the celebrated traveller,
has placed the residence of the Queen of Sheba
at the island of "Meroe," situated between Shendy
and Khartoum, where, as he says, " cette celebre
reine d'Ethiopie, qui alia ecouter les sages preceptes
et les tendres discours de Salomon," met him.^
May it not be, that the deserting Egyptians,
" This celebrated queen of Ethiopia, who went and listened
to the wise precepts and tender discourses of Solomon," met him.
TBE OHILLOUKS. 25
amalgamating with the Ethiopians, were the ances-
tors of the Bagarrah Arabs of whom we speak ?
The 31st of March, we arrived at Fashoda,
having transferred baggage, &c., to the "Bordene,"
a more comfortable steamer returning from Gon-
dokoro. Fashoda, situated on the left bank of
the Nile, is an outpost of the Government at
Khartoum ; on its left is a Chillouk village of
straw-huts ; the town itself is a collection of
mud-huts, with here and there a government build-
ing of stone, a prison, and a divan.
Under the " surveillance " of an affable officer,
Colonel Yusef Bej, the Chillouks are being en-
couraged to cultivate "dourah," and their condition
is being very sensibly ameliorated, the land to this
point being passably good.
From this place, however, to Gondokoro, there is
nothing but a sea of marshes, through whose slimy
bed the river Nile runs its extremely tortuous
course for at least 1000 miles !
The 2nd of April we arrived at the mouth of the
river Saubat : a detachment of soldiers here mark
the limit of the administration of the Khartoum
Government, and the point where commences the
frontier of the Equatorial Provinces: here we stop
for wood. The mosquitoes attack with great
ferocity, and their bites are so painful as to
render sleep impossible ; this was but one of the
daily torments which we experienced in an ever-
memorable voyage of twenty-six days, varied only
26 CENTRAL AFRICA.
by frequent shots at troops of elephants, buffalo,
crocodiles, and hippopotami, that ramped and
roared around our boat, if " tied up for wood."
The Chillouk and the Dinka occupy the right
and left bank of the river. In this hurried transit
no study of these people was possible ; it was only
afterwards,inpassing and repassing on service, that
I was brought in close connexion with these tribes
who, in common with other negroes, have been
endowed by enthusiastic travellers with qualities,
that I regret to say, an unprejudiced opinion,
added to a long experience among negroes, under
various circumstances, does not permit me to cor-
roborate. I cannot do better then, than quote
here an analysis of a " resume " of my travels, an
extract of a speech delivered before the Geo-
graphical Society of Paris, on the 21st of July,
1875, having the merit of conclusions drawn from
actual and painful observation.
" Twenty-six days of navigation by steamer
through a region, where an almost inextricable
maze of jungle-grass seemed at times to threaten
to bar completely the way, brought me to the
Bari country, near Gondokoro; a distance of about
1000 miles, entirely covered by fetid and stagnant
marshes, over the dangerous surface of which
wander troops of elephants and buffaloes. The
river was full of crocodiles and hippopotami; the
roars of the latter alone breaking the terrific silence
which reigns in these regions.
THE DINK AS. 27
" Later, on returning, feeling anxious to know
something about the Saubat, I went up that river
nearly 300 miles, and learned that, farther on, at
nine days' march, was a village called ' Kam-
Kom,' whither the Abyssinians or Gallas repair
for trading purposes. At a few hours' distance
from the place where I stopped (called Manshiah
by the negroes) flowed a river, which by its direc-
tion I supposed to be an effluent of the Bahr-el-
Azrak. I heard there of an overland route, by
Avhich one might even reach Gondokoro ; a fact
unknown till then.
" The banks of the Saubat present the same
sombre and dismal aspect as those of the Bahr-el-
Abiad. They are inhabited by the Dinkas and the
Nouers. Like the Chillouks who dwell on the left
bank of the Bahr-el-Abiad, these people possess
none of the ideas or qualities which had been pre-
viously ascribed to them. First of all, the Dinka is
no worshipper of the moon ; he worships the cow.
The Chillouk, who had been introduced as the
founder of a kingdom in Sennaar, seems by his
present wretched state and miserable appearance
to belie the statement of his ever having played
so grand an historical part. The most deplorable
conditions both of climate and habitation, are
alone sufl&cient to have prevented the Chillouk
from acting the part of a conqueror, which has
been assigned to him. Let us cast a closer glance
at the negroes encamped on the banks of the
28
CENTRAL AFRICA.
Balir-el-Abiad, encircled by a row of dung-liills,
to which they set fire, either to preserve themselves
from the venomous bites of the mosquitoes, or to
protect themselves during the* night from the
attacks of the lions, leopards, and hippopotami.
Indolent and timorous, the Chillouk scarcely finds
sufi&cient means of subsistence in the doubtful
SCENE ON TKE BAHE-EL-ABIAD, BETWEEN THE JUNCTION OF THE
!
SAUBAT AND GONDOKORO.
pursuit of the wild beasts that surround him.
Deprived of the resources which fishing aff'ords
them, one year would sufiice to annihilate these
beings, among whom famine has become a chronic
state. By the Chillouk stands the cow, which for
him supplies the place of every other divinity.
These cows, as emaciated as himself, give but very
LOW STATE OP CIVILIZATION. 29
little milk, and tlie Chillouk never kills them for
food. ^ The possession of this animal is a guarantee v/
of freedom; for the Sheik of every negro tribe
detains as slaves such as do not possess at least
one cow. ^ ^
" These people live thus in idleness, sheltered
from the burning rays of the sun by a dense
curtain of smoke. Besmeared with muck mixed
with ashes, they seem yet more hideous with their
protuberant jaws, the absence of lower incisors,
and their upper teeth projecting from their upper
jaw like the tusks of a wild boar. As for a divi-
nity, they have none other but the above-men-
tioned one, the cow. I may add that many other
negro tribes are in the same state ; and such as
have any notions of a God, hold them from the
nomad Arab. Does it not also appear probable
that the different hues in the colour of their
skin may be imputed to miscegenation with the
Arab and Indian ? "
The 6thofAj)rll. — The place where the "sod " had
barred passage to Baker Pacha, since removed (as
heretofore mentioned), permits our uninterrupted
passage. On board of our steamer are some of
the soldiers who were employed in that work, and
their legs, covered with great sores produced by the
guinea worm, give evidence of their hard service.
On the 8th of April I go ashore ; fire at troop
of elephants; hit one with explosive shell, but
he " gets away beautifully ;" tumble into an
30 CENTRAL AFRICA.
elephant pit-fall covered from view by grass and
bushes, and extricate myself with difficulty. The
savages come to the steamer and beg for " dourah "
(corn) ; their starved and emaciated figures give
fearful evidence of their misery.
Frequent stoppages for wood bring to our
steamer, always begging for food, these miserable
starving creatures, who are assembled in mass
upon the great high ant-hills, whose cone-like
shape deceives one often into belief that they are
villages. These ant-hills, from ten to twelve feet
high, dotted here and there in great numbers over
the marshy plain, alone break the oppressive de-
l^ression of these lowlands. From these points
the negro, leaning upon his spear, with his leg
uplifted and forming an angle, his foot resting
upon the knee of the left leg, supporting thus, in
not ungraceful pose, his body, bent forward in
eager and curious gaze at the passing steamer.
April 10th. — We pass the spot called " Wossis "
(priest), where once a brave little band of Austrian
priests settled in these fetid marshes, devoted
victims to a strange infatuation. The place now,
alone is marked by some banana-trees planted by
them, the sole surviving memorial of their faith
and sacrifice.
April 11th. — We arrive at " Bor," an ivory
establishment, where we receive the doubtful
honours of a Falstaffian band of " Dongolowee,"
belonging to the independent corps of ivory
AEEIVAL AT GONDOKORO. 31
hunters and merchants at Khartoum. Farther on
we stop for wood, procuring ebony for fuel ; here
I got a chance shot at a troop of giraffes, but with-
out effect other than to send them flying through
the brush.
April \Sth. — Stopped for wood near a deserted
negro village in decay ; the ground is covered
with skulls and human bones; the huts are perched
upon ebony posts, which we secure for fuel.
April Ibth. — The river is becoming less deep and
navigation more difficult ; at intervals we stick on
a muddy shoal. Immense number of hippopotami
and crocodiles, our constant companions en route,
seem here with angry roars to oppose our passage.
Ajjril IQtJi. — We can see in the distance the
mountains near Gondokoro, " Lado, Belignan, and
Regaf," and the dreary waste of pestiferous marsh
of this gloomy river Styx gives place to " terra
firma," when we had almost begun to think that
Central -Africa must lose itself in the black stink-
ing mud, that has been our home for the last
twenty-six days.
April 17 th. — We arrived at Gondokoro, where we
were received with customary honours by the
commandant of the garrison. Colonel Raouf-Bej
(now Paclia).
CHAPTER V.
Goudokoro — The " Canissa " — Graves of Mr. Higglnbotham
and M. Auguste Linant — Destructive powers of the
White Ants — Loron, the great Sheik of the Bavi — His
Wife and Daughters — The Governor General returns to
Khartoum — Despondency — The connexion of the Lakes
Victoria and Albert, the Problem — Ba Beker — Death of
Livingstone — Determine on the Journey — My Companions
— My Staff— My Horse " Ugunda " — Heavy Rains.
GoNDOKORO, on the right bank of the river, on a
blufF-hke elevation ten feet above the level of the
stream, is a military encampment, composed of
straw huts enclosed in a high palisade of straw ;
a little stream running through marshy, and
at times flooded land, bounds the north side of
the encampment. The brick " canissa " (church)
had been long since pulled down by the " Baris,"
and had served, mixed with grease, to besmear
their bodies with the favourite red colour they
affect. The magazine of heavy tin, filled with
trumpery for the savages, is a relic of the admi-
nistration of Sir Samuel Baker. Not far away, a
rude memorial erected here marks the grave of one
of Sir Samuel Baker's most energetic aids, Mr.
D
DEATH OP M. AUGUSTE LINANT. 33
Higginbotham. Alas ! tliat on my return from
Lake Victoria I should find tlie deserted spot
invaded, to give place to my friend, M. Augusta
Linant, the son of M. Linant de Bellefonds, of
Cairo. Not without a spasm of pain I looked at
the broken turf that marked his resting-place ; and
memory went back to that morning, mentioned at
the opening of this book, when he and a host of
friends bade me adieu in Cairo. Poor Linant,
then insisting that I should cause him to be
appointed to the Expedition, my interference had
been too successful; for he had arrived and
died ere my return. Others too lay close by,
victims alike to a deadly fever prevalent here, since
Gondokoro had proved almost a plague spot, in
this respect alone.
The famous white ants of which so much has
been written, at Gondokoro, as at every point
from the Saubat south to the Equator, employ
their energetic qualities to such an extent as to
destroy almost everything, save metals, if left for
twenty-four or forty-eight hours on the earth.
Warned of this, all my clothing and baggage
were carefully hoisted from contact with the
ground. Others, more unfortunate or more in-
credulous, did not take the same precaution ; and
consequently had their clothing, and even sword-
belts, almost entirely destroyed by this veritable
plague. They throw up large red mounds, that
rise solitary and alone, the only distinctive marks
34 CENTRAL AFRICA.
that break the monotony of the plains and marshes,
and from whose tops, eight to ten feet high, the
naked savage may be seen with foot resting upon
the knee of the leg that supports him ; the right
hand clasping the lance crosswise, as a means of
defence or offence — of livelihood, if he be an in-
habitant of the river banks ; for the lance alone
serves him as a means of procuring fish, by the
uncertain process of spearing them.
As I have said before, we have left the gulf of
marsh and pestiferous land that separates Gondo-
koro from the mouth of the Saubat. Gondokoro
looks out upon a country not unpicturesque ; the
mountains in the distance; the grass-covered
land dotted here and there by tall stately trees ;
flocks of sheep, goats, and cows : and nicely
constructed villages, constitute indeed a plea-
sant change from the country we have recently
passed over. Loron, the great Sheik of the
Bari, comes to make our acquaintance, and
introduces his numerous wives. Loron, a great,
tall, magnificently built man, in a state of " puris
naturalibus " — a national distinction of the Bari —
takes his seat upon the little stool in ebony
carried by all Baris habitually, so that the legs
embrace the left shoulder near the head. His
huge limbs are in such great contrast to the
pigmy article as to obscure from sight the stool ;
whilst at the same time, to excite mirth at the
seeming painful and ridiculous position of the
LORON, SHEIK OF THE BAEI. 35
great cliief, his wife and daughters — from whom,
in accordance with the tribal custom, all capillary
attractions had been removed by native depilla-
tories, both as to their heads and bodies — were
covered with a coating of grease and oxide of
iron. They were far more modest than Loron,
and wore the native girdle, consisting of strips of
leather finely cut hanging down in front ; whilst
in the rear " the correct thing " is to have a long
bushy tail falling nearly to the ankles. This is
to be fashionably dressed " a la Bari."
The details of inspection, consequent upon
the arrival of the Governor General, have no
place here. Quickly despatched, the Governor
General determined to return to Khartoum, and
there hasten forward Abou Saoud, en route from
Cairo with the rear-guard; and acting in con-
cert with him, return to Gondokoro.
On the 20th of April, then. Colonel Gordon
returned to Khartoum. The brilliant prospect of
aiding in the work of the regeneration of Africa, —
" To scatter plenty o'er a smiling land,
And read your history in a nation's eyes,"
had received, through the long stretch of dreary
deadly marsh that interposes from Khartoum, a
very sensible shock. The disheartened tone of
officers and men, whose sickly emaciated appear-
ance, too truly corroborated their long drawn
" griefs," caused me, for a moment, to regret my
36 CENTRAL AFRICA.
voluntary exile from a pleasant service in Cairo;
but a sentiment of duty ratlier than enthusiasm
rose liigh above the apparent obstacles to my
purpose. Imbued with that sentiment of Long-
fellow's,—
" In the world's great field of battle,
In the bivouac of life,
Be not like dumb driven cattle,
Be a hero in the strife,"
the prospective journey to the Lake "Victoria
Nyanza, had been suggested to me by the im-
patient desire of the world to know something of
that mysterious region, the Source of the Nile. I
had in my mind's eye the connecting of the two
lakes — Victoria and Albert — till now a problem :
the unfinished work of Captain Speke. Another
incentive to this journey to the Lake Victoria,
was to visit and confer with that great African
king, of whom only vague accounts had been given
by Speke, whose visit to Ugunda resulted in the
discovery of the Lake Victoria Nyanza, but who
had still left the question one of mystery and
doubt.
The presence at Gondokoro of a wily black,
named Ba Beker, who had made his way through
Unyoro, coming from M'Tse, King of Ugunda, and
bearing letters to Sir Samuel Baker from Lieu-
tenant Cameron, announcing the death of Living-
stone at Ujiji, seemed a propitious circumstance,
though the non-arrival of baggage and provisions.
DEATH OF LIVINGSTONE. 37
and an utter want of every necessary, conspired
to render the attempt nothing short of folly.
The Governor General, ere his departure, had been
informed of my wish and opposed no objection
thereto, although from letters addressed to me from
Khartoum he had deemed it utterly impracticable,
and presumed me still at Gondokoro. Invested,
however, with the necessary authority, I made a
demand upon Raouf Pacha, the Colonel command-
ing post, but only two soldiers in the weakened
condition of the garrison could be detailed to
my service. They came from the " Forty
Thieves " of Sir Samuel Baker, or as they
were known, the " Soudanieh Corps " — Said
Bagarrah, and Abd-el-Rahman — destined to be
my faithful companions and comrades in arms
in all the eventful scenes of misery and hardship
that marked our joint adventures. My two
unfaithful and useless servants, and a miserable
wretch in exile, Ibrahim Effendi, in the capacity of
dragoman, composed my staff; the latter unfortu-
nately only adding to the obstacles interposed by
savages and by the elements. The rainy season
had commenced, and the hastily collected stores
of sugar and coflfee that could only last me in the
first steps of my voyage, received a fearful deluge
of rain the night preceding my departure, the 23rd
of April. My horse and Sais Suliman should not
be forgotten here, both have a place in my affec-
tions to-day from their faithful service and com-
38 CENTRAL AFRICA.
panionsliip. The former kept me company in tlie
long vigils of stormy nights that marked my ab-
sence and secured for me doubtless, on my entree
as a Centaur at the Palais of M'Tse, in Ugunda,
the honours of human sacrifice, accorded only to
the equals of African kings ! Retiring to my tent
I prepared several hasty notes of adieu, rendered
almost indecipherable by the howling rain that
invaded and deluged my retreat, and thus ren-
dered sleep impossible. On the morrow, at an
early hour, I determined to put myself en route,
and to defy the almost insuperable obstacles that
presented themselves at the commencement of my
enterprise, and now —
" Here is one fytte of Harold's pilgrimage:
Ye who of him may further seek to know,
Shall find some tidings in a future page,
If he that rhymeth now may scribble moe."
CHAPTER VI.
Violent Storms and Rains— Affair at Mrooli— M'Tse, king of
Ugunda — Connexion of the Lakes Victoria Nyanza and
Albert— Desire to solve the Problem — Preparations to
depart — My Escort — Ba Beker — Description of my
" personnel "—Death of my Horse— The Dongolowee—
. Bid Eaouf Bey a last adieu— Cross the " Hor-el-Ramle "—
"Gebel-el-Kelb"— Hadid, the Iron Man of Fatiko— The
Mogi Country— Massacre— Prepare for an Attack from
the Mogi Tribe — Their mass in front attacked and dis-
persed— The Lahore — The Bahr-el-Asua — Miani's
Tree— Utter break-down of Kellerman — Porters dying
of fatigue are left unbtiried — Address of Gimmoro
Arrival at Fatiko — Received with enthusiasm by the
Garrison.
The morning of the 24tli of April dawned in
thunder, lightning, and rain ; the unabated storm
of the night previous had seemed to gather new
violence, as if with its chilling influence to act in
concert with the ofiicers of the post, whose
sombre representations cf the diflBculties of the
route southward alone might have deterred me
from the attempt, certainly at this season of
rains, whose duration would be six months, and
40 CENTEAL AFRICA.
when the wild jungle-grass springing np to an
enormous height, formed at times an almost im-
passable barrier. This was not all, for after
quitting the last military post at Foueira, I should
be wholly dependent upon the country for food ;
in fact, alone with two soldiers to run the gauntlet
of African diplomacy, and dangers that had
caused Speke, with fifty soldiers, to leave uncom-
pleted the navigation of the Nile, between the
Lake Victoria and the Lake Albert; and forced
Sir Samuel Baker, just entering Unyoro, at
Masindi, with a large body of soldiers, and every
luxury of camp and tent life, to retreat from the
country, many of his soldiers killed, and his
immense stores destroyed by Keba Rega; thus
rendering nominal only his " annexation " of
this country, and leaving a passage through it
a matter of peril, as will be shown hereafter,
in my recital of the affair at Mrooli, as well
as in the subsequent massacre of the troops
of M'Tse; and later still, of thirty-six out of the
valorous " Forty Thieves " of Baker, who accom-
panied my unfortunate friend M. Linant, then
returning from Ugunda.
I have said elsewhere, in an analysis of this ex-
pedition, made before the French Geographical
Society, at their request, that " Par suite de cir-
constances, dont le detail ne serait pas ici a sa
place, je dus me mettre en route avant I'arrivee
de mes bagages. C'etait une imprudence qui
• DEPART FOE THE LAKES. 41
aurait pu nous couter clier a moi-meme et a mes
compagnons, mais elle me fut imposee par le sen-
timent du devoir." * It is this that may excuse
me for an act of premeditated folly and rash-
ness.
That mysterious region, the Lake Victoria
Nyanza, the source of the Nile, was the Eldorado
of Central African explorers, to unlock whose
difficult and hidden secrets, and explore the
uncertain and unknown link between the two
lakes, Victoria and Albert, was still in the geo-
graphical world a consummation devoutly to be
wished for.
Alone at Gondokoro I sought the key to un-
lock the forbidden door, and determined to brave
all danger, " to set my life upon the cast, and stand
the hazard of the die." I then proceeded to in-
spect the poor stores I had collected from the
magazine, and which the night before had been
sewed tightly in new cow-skins for protection
against the weather. They consisted of several
pounds of sugar and coffee, and a few pounds of
bread, the remnant of a few rations for the route
* "By a concourse of circumstances, the particulars of
which I need not here detail, I was compelled to start before
the arrival of my baggage and supplies. This was an act of
folly that might have cost dear both to myself and to my
companions, but it was dictated to me by a sentiment of
duty."
42 CENTEAL AFRICA.
purcliased at Khartoum, sufficient only for a few
days. My uniform and a change of clothing com-
prised my personal store; the rest composed of
" Suc-Suc," a Soudanieh nomenclature, under
which beads, red cloth, tarbouches, and other
trumpery articles (packed in tin cases left by
Baker), to strike the fancy of Africans, are desig-
nated. These were intended as " salaam-alak "
(gifts) for King M'Tse. As porters of these
effects there were then at Gondokoro 300 Fati-
kites (negro porters) of Fatiko, who had come
from the Fatiko military post with a column bring-
ing ivory, and the supernumeraries carrying the
effects of officers and soldiers, accompanying them
as an escort, numbering sixty men, in command of
a lieutenant ; the sole means of transport in these
countries being the negro, paid by " Suc-suc," or
a cow, if the burden carried be of much value. It
may be remarked here that nowhere in Africa,
though possessing the elephant, giraffe, and buf-
falo, has the negro ever attempted to make use
of them as beasts of burden. As a fact how-
ever, and only in justice to him, the need
thereof is scarcely understood; since labour of
any kind is the exception not the rule in African
wilds.
In addition to the troops there were eighty
irregulars, Dongolowee ivory hunters returning to
their station at Faloro, under the command of
BA BEKEK. 43
Suleiman, the ex-Wekil of Abou-Saoud, now en-
rolled in the government service in the ivory
interest, at a salary that rendered him of great
importance; not alone this, he was going with
plenipotentiary powers to the court of Keba Rega
as ambassador ! ^ They would accompany me as
far as "Miani's Tree," whence, westward to the
Nile, they would go to Faloro, where large
quantities of ivory were already stored. My
advance southward then, within the lines of our
military posts extending to Foueira, near Ka-
ruma Falls, was rendered comparatively secure.
Last, though not least, in this escort was the
high functionary, Ba Beker, heretofore mentioned,
a black diplomat from the court of M'Tse,
and privy counsellor to this potentate. He had
been entrusted by M'Tse with letters, that " his
people had received at Ujiji from a white man "
(frequent communication is had between Ujiji
and TJgunda), supposed to be Lieutenant Cameron,
addressed to the Governor General at Gondokoro.
Ba Beker had received orders such as the king is
accustomed to give in all cases : " Fail to execute
your mission, and your head pays the forfeit."
By stealthy marches by night, and secreted in
marsh and banana grove by day, Unyoro had
^ This fact is mentioned here in connexion with the affair at
Mrooli, the 17th of August, 1874. Suleiman was then at
Masiudi, only three days away to the westwai'd.
44 CENTEAL AFKICA.
been passed, and the watcliful, wary Keba Rega
successfully eluded, and Ba Beker with a few
followers had reached the government post at
Foueira, whence with the ivory escort he had
made his way to Gondokoro. Nervous as to his
return he gladly welcomed the announcement of
my visit to Ugunda. I saw that though boast-
ful of making his way through Unyoro, that
" annexed country of Sir Samuel Baker " — he felt
very much like the school-boy fresh from the in-
fluence of the nursery, whose traditional dread
of passing lonely churchyards at late, hours, has
been appreciated by all whose youth may have
been spent in villages.
Ba Beker, though black as ebony, was a cross
between the negro and the Malay. Very short in
stature, his little black face was illumed by two
little fiery red eyes, that burned like coals when
excited by anger or cruelty ; but habitually were
downcast, or half closed in modest mildness and
humility, that Uriah Heap might not have sur-
passed. When addressing me his body was bent
low, his hands upon his stomach : replying to
every suggestion of mine with the expression that
became stereotyped, " Rasak tiib ye Bey ! "
" Your head is clear, 0 Bey ! " This fellow in-
spired me with a feeling of disgust and sus-
picion, warranted by succeediug events ; as
he became jealous of my influence with M'Tse,
and came near, by conspiracy and intrigue,
DESCRIPTION OP MY " PERSONNEL." 45
in thwarting my plans, and often jeopardizing
my life.
So much for the escort that were to accompany
me the first steps of the route. I turn now to my
followers, who were to brave with me the dangers
of the route to the lake.
Said Bagarrah and Abd-el-Eahman were two
black soldiers, armed with Snyders, selected from
the Soudanieh Corps to accompany me by Raouf
Bey (now Pacha), the commander of the post at
Gondokoro. The first was a native of the
country near Fashoda, of the Bagarrah tribe;
the latter, a native of Darfour. Devoted and
courageous, these two native soldiers were my
constant companions in all the hardships and
dangers that awaited me, and with pleasure I shall
do them justice in my recital of the perils we
shared together. Suleiman, my Sais (Arab groom),
was a bold and daring fellow, but an old wound
obliged me to leave him at Foueira, as he was un-
able to proceed.
Adam, a Berberian, my cook, was nearly always
sick and perfectly worthless. Ibrahim Effendi,
Arab dragoman, a convict, had been exiled to the
Soudan as punishment for misconduct, and be-
haved so badly that I soon left him in arrest at
the station of Foueira.
"W. F. G. Kellerman, Alsacian and Prussian, had
insisted upon accompanying me, notwithstanding
my objections. He had enrolled himself as valet
46 CENTEAL AFRICA.
at Khartoum; but, after a few days' march,
declared himself " a geutleman," and refused abso-
lutely to aid me in any way whatever. Unable
to send him back, this fwmeant proved a source of
great care and annoyance throughout the expedi-
tion. He went to Ugunda with me, and waded
through bog and slime with clothes on, insuring
himself thereby an extra portion of fever that
myself and others evaded by divesting ourselves
of dress, removing the sometimes putrid paste
in some friendly pool of water, rather than sub-
mit to being encased in the poisonous matter,
that rendered Kellerman's presence at times
intolerable.
With this outline of circumstances and per-
sonnel on the morning of my departure I have
only to join the column that is waiting for me
beyond the sentries. The Governor General had
turned over to me the only horse at Gondokoro ;
he had come with us from Berber, where he
had been purchased ; facts that are mentioned in
grateful memory of the service that he rendered
me ; whether borne by the faithful animal, or by his
side, the bridle on arm, along the long difficult
path; the "centaur" at M'Tse; our silent sym-
pathetic communion in the lonely vigils of the
night, as he lay with his head at my feet — all these
endear to me beyond the power of belief the me-
mory of " Ugunda." He died at Gondokoro three
days after my return, and the news of his death
THE DONGOLOWEE. 47
caused me almost as great pain as would that of
a human being.
Mounted, I bade adieu to officers and men as I
rode along the opened ranks of infantry, and
responded to the honours that were rendered me.
The column was put in motion, and Kaouf Bey
accompanied me for several hours of the march.
This officer had for five years commanded at
Gondokoro, and through the influence exerted by
him, the treacherous and cowardly " Bari " had at
length accepted, as a fact, the definitive occupation
of the country by the Government troops, against
whom these people, and in fact every other tribe,
had been excited by the Dongolowee faction. So
true was this, that open hostility reigned between
the Soudanieh Corps and the Dongolowee, not
alone here, but at every Government Station ; the
latter regarding the former as invading precincts
that belonged to them as ivory hunters ; and the
former, boastful and proud of their reputation as
soldiers, treated these men as " Hotariah," irre-
gulars or " Basha Bouzouks," become now a word
of reproach. These Dongolowee were recruited
at Khartoum by the ivory houses of Agad and Co.,
and Rataz, chief agent of the former being Abou
Saoud, having as his lieutenant Suleiman, al-
ready mentioned, and " Wat-el-Mek," otherwise
known as "Mehemet-el-Tar." The dissolution
and withdrawal of these houses from the trade left
these men still at the " Zeri has " (stations). They
E
48 CENTRAL AFRICA.
had been compensated for their services at the
rate of five francs per month, and " loot," that is
to say, in the razzias that were made in uniting
themselves with some native tribes, and making
the attack conjointly, with a division of spoils,
"women and ivory." Eminently fitted for the
hard and arduous service of this nomad life, the
Dongolowee, the Bedouin of Upper Nubia, with-
out traditions and without a country, save the
jungle of Africa, could not but look with displea-
sure upon his dispossession, and the enforcement
of order and justice, where before he had been
" monarch of all he surveyed." The removal of
the leading ambitious spirits among them, such
as Abou Saoud, Wat-el-Mek, and Suleiman,
would have left them without the inspiration for
evil, and an element that is almost a necessity
in the occupation of that country. Certainly
in the great trade in its ivory they could have been
made an instrument of progress and civilization ;
for, with all their faults, these rude children of
the jungle have many generous qualities, and are
exceedingly tractable. This digression has been
made to endeavour to make clear the signification
of names and persons, that have been called to
play their part in Central Africa ; as well as to
correct impressions that have been sought to be
made to the prejudice of the Government troops.
The presence of these men with my command
besides induced the explanation.
I BID RAOUF BET A LAST ADIEU. 49
Let US return now to tlie column on the march.
The road runs over an undulating ground, dotted
here and there by wide-spreading, trees, whilst in
the distance, almost shut out by the now thick
mist that has succeeded the rain, are seen the
mountains Regaf and Belignan, whose redoubt-
able " Sheik" defied the authority of the former
Governor General, and is no less now a terror to
the surrounding tribes, by his frequent incursions
and " cattle-lifting." A continued internecine war
of tribes exists in Central Africa. The stronger
takes from the weaker cattle and slaves.
"Might makes Right" is essentially a savage
instinct. Arrived at a muddy and now swollen
stream I dismounted and threw off my nether
garments, and at the head of the column, " en
chemise," remounted. I waved E-aouf Bey a
last adieu, my antique costume causing this
officer a hearty laugh as he wished me a safe
return. All were passed over in safety, and
resuming the march we bivouacked at four p.m.,
beset by a violent storm of rain and sleet, that
uprooted my tent from the spongy earth, and it
was only kept in place by the combined efforts of
myself and two soldiers. Only one tent, and this
was in rags, could be procured; for it will be
remembered that these stores were taken from
the magazine left by Sir Samuel Baker ; the camp
equipage, provisions, and medicine, intended for
his successor, were still en route, and doubtless
50 CENTRAL AFRICA.
had not yet reached Khartoum. As an opening
scene in a drama of fifty-eight days of rain,
misery, and privation, yet to be encountered as we
advanced, it fell cold and cheerless upon the poor
actors. I confess to a moment of utter despon-
dency, almost fear of the terrible undertaking
before me ; and the entreaties of the officers to
desist came painfully to my mind. The die was
cast, for I felt — in the homely words of Lincoln —
that it was now "too late to swop horses;" and
to return would subject me to criticism, however
unjust.
April 25th. — After a night of desperate struggle
against the storm, that seemed determined to
deprive us of shelter, the reveil was beaten. At
six o'clock the officers came to drink coffee with
me ; and half an hour afterwards the column was
in motion.
The route runs through deserted villages of the
Bari. Here and there we cross "Hors" (streams)
that cut in every direction the now-flooded low-
lands. The country is rolling, and assumes as
we proceed a park-like appearance. Tamarind
and ebony -trees grow on every side, and the land
has changed from the dark pasty soil to a light
gravelly character. We cro^ the " Hor-el-
Ramle" (Stream of sand), whose quicksands terrify
my horse "Ugunda," as he sinks in its treacherous
bed. The cortege passes over, however, without
accident ; and resuming the route, after a long and
THE " TIOK-EL-EAMLE." 51
fatiguing marcli we encamp in a deserted village
of straw huts. These huts are constructed of
" Esch " (jungle-grass), forming a thatched roof
that descends from a conical shape ; perched
upon stakes of wood in a circular form, and
plastered with earth, thus forming the sides. The
corn-bins are raised from the earth on four stakes,
to protect against the ravages of the white ant
that here, as heretofore mentioned, is the redoubted
pest of Central Africa. The bin itself is of inge-
niously plaited strips of fine wood, and has the
appearance of an immense basket. The Bari
villages are constructed in circular form, protected
by a hedge of cactus or of wood, to serve as
shelter or defence .against attack. Ere the rain
fell I took a refreshing bath in the " Hor-el-
Ramle," and wearied with fatigue sought my tent
to sleep.
"Wliilst the reveil was being beaten we drank a
hurried cup of coffee, and prepared for the march ;
and quitting the village at half -past six a.m.,
we crossed again the very serpentine " Hor-
el-Ramle," that eventually makes its way to
the " Bahr-el-Abiad," nearly opposite " Gebel-
el-Regaf." A march of six hours brings us to
" Jebel-el-Kelb '\ (Dog Mountain), at whose base
we encamp, menaced by a fearful storm that soon
beats down relentlessly. The rainy season has
commenced, and such rain ! My poor tent is a
mere sieve, and the only thing that protects me.
52 CENTEAL AFRICA.
thougli but slightly from its effects, is a mackintosli
that the kindly Dr. Sala, the post doctor, has
loaned me,
Ap7'il 27th. — With military precision, doubtless
induced by the discomforts of the night, we are
en route at half -past six a.m. The severe illness
of the officer commanding the troops compelled
me to bivouac at mid-day. With the exception of
a bottle of laudanum and a bottle of chlorodyne, I
am totally unprovided with medicines; for the
reason that there were none at Gondokoro. From
this small store, however, I administered him a
potion, and quickly recovering, T found that I
had established a reputation as "Hakim" (doctor),
that caused me no little annoyjince in the future,
not alone because I had nothing with which to
i^elieve the suffering patients, but because they
persisted in believing that I was a "medicine man,"
and ascribed to me extraordinary powers in . the
healing art.
April 28th. — Awake this morning at five o'clock
a victim to the fever ; already Kellerman and
Adam have been attacked and looked the perfect
pictures of despair. Whilst striking the tent I
was attracted by the appearance of one of the
Fatiko Abides, who, standing among his comrades
who were feeding on " dourah," the corn of the
Soudan, looked with a shadow of melancholy rest-
ing upon his countenance, the picture of the melan-
choly Dane. In common with most of his people
THE IRON MAN OF FATIKO. 53
no dress concealed his form ; a few only covered
their loins with the skin of some animal, the wild
cat, the leopard, or the deer. *'Hadad,"or "Hadid,"
as he was called by the Arabs, was innocent of all
clothing : he had doubtless received his name from
his vocation as he claimed to be a worker in iron,
and not an iron-man as his name might signify,
though the coils of finely wro ugh t-iron around neck,
arms, and legs, would fairly justify the name.
The many coils of iron with which the neck was
embraced forbade his looking downwards. This
fashion is not uncommon to other tribes of Central
Africa, and particularly noticed as common to
both men and women of the Makraka Niam-Niam
tribes, westward of the Bahr-el-Abiad. Hadid in
this respect had the appearance of a London swell ;
whilst the manipulation of his hair was really won-
derful, giving to the intricate and carefully worked
head-dress and chignon the aspect of a Parisian
belle.
CalKng Hadid to me, I addressed him, curious
to know if the ever problematical question of the
innate existence of a Deity existed, " a priori,"
with the untutored savage negro.
" Where is your father ? "
" Dead."
" Where do you think he has gone ? "
"Into the earth at Fatiko."
" Don't you think he has gone lo heaven ? "
pointing above.
54 CENTRAL AFEICA.
With the utmost disdain he said to me, " Don't
bother me with such ideas that come from the
' canissa ' (Gondokoro) ; you know that one can
never climb up there."
All this loses by relation, but the gestures, ex-
pressions, and accent of Hadid were such as to pro-
voke the greatest mirth. The tribe of the Fatiko are
by far superior to any tribes I have ever met south
of Khartoum ; more industrious and more honest.
Their language is like the yelp of a dog, and the
effect upon the listener for the first time very
wonderful. They extract the lower incisors, per-
forate the lip, and introduce either a piece of copper,
or well-shaped bead', held in its place by a head like
a nail ; this is the fetiche of the Fatiko ; added to
which his ears and nose are encased in copper
or iron ornaments. Further on, I shall refer to
the Fatiko in connexion with their ideas of a
Divinity.
At six o'clock we break camp, and after four
hours' march enter the Mogi country. Our way
leads across a fine undulating country ; at the
base of the hills run water-courses, whose beds
are filled with mica and gneiss. A further march
of four hours, and we encamp under a large tree,
always sought for in selecting a bivouac ground ;
as it affords shelter from the rain for the naked
Abides, who cower and shiver around a fire that
with difficulty can be made to burn, owing to the
now saturated wood.
ATTACKED BY THE MOGT TEIBE. 55
At this spot, not more tlian a year ago, a lieu-
tenant with thirty men eu route, returning from
Gondokoro to their post, were surprised at night
and massacred by the Mogi tribe. They are
regarded as a cruel and treacherous tribe, and
warned by their menacing attitude, as great num-
bers hung upon our flank since entering their
territory, I made the proper dispositions to anti-
cipate any attack ; at the same time giving the
most stringent orders, that the cordon of sentinels
should not be passed either by soldier or Abide.
This order may not have been understood by a
number of Abides, who unobserved had entered
the village and commenced " to loot." Cries of
distress soon reached my ears; I mounted my
horse, taking with me a detachment of Sou-
daniehs ; arriving upon the ground I found three
Abides pierced with lance-wounds of the most
horrible nature. Two were perfectly dead, the
other with nine wounds was still liviug. I had
him borne to the camp on the shoulders of his
comrades.
The "Mogi" were gathering on my right in
great numbers, and with defiant shouts and
gestures were evidently preparing to attack.
The long roll was beaten, and the regulars and
irregulars were quickly in line; soldiers' wives,
of whom there are always an unlimited number,
with baggage, being placed in a secure position.
I should state here that the soldier of the Soudan
56 CENTRAL AFRICA.
carries but seldom either knapsack or havresack.
His " bint " (woman) does this office for him, as
well as grinds his rations of " dourah " between
two stones, whose harsh, hissing sound may be
heard far into the night, as the preparation of the
morning repast is being made by his devoted mate,
who accompanies her work by a peculiar song
whose notes are perfectly indescribable. I had
more than once objected to what I deemed an
impediment to the lightness of a column on the
march ; experience however proved to me after-
wards that a soldier encumbered, through jungle
and difficult passes, would be unable to cope with
the ever wary savage ; and that the " bint " was
a " sine qua non " to prepare his meals ; since a
column of soldiers was scarcely ever strong enough
to dispense even temporarily with his service as a
sentinel, whose constant vigilance was necessary to
guard against surprise. There are no beasts of
burden in Central Africa, save the negro, who is
the only transport of the " impedimenta " of the
soldiers. Unprovided with tents, he is oftentimes
obliged to seek shelter in the huts of the savages ;
a necessity that the latter, to whom the kinder
instincts of pity or sympathy are unknown, resists,
and hence the conflicts that often occur. To return
to the attack that was now being made, I first as-
sured myself of the proper dispositions for defence
of the camp, and joined the skirmish line already
deployed, where, after a sharp fire upon the mass
THE MOGI TRIBE DISPERSED. 57
collected in front, we charged them at the double
quick, and they disappeared in the jungle not far
away. Eeturning to camp, I endeavoured to
staunch the wounds of the Abide, but his icy cold
flesh and glazed eye too truly told me that he was
beyond all human aid. He died, and was buried
at sundown. My dragoman, Ibrahim, during the
affair was nearly collapsed with fear; and my
Sais Suleiman was heard upbraiding him for his
want of manliness. Warned by the surprise and
massacre of the previous detachment, I doubled
the sentinels, relieving them every half-hour. I
sat through the long silent watches of the night
alone with the storm of savage elements and savage
human nature that raged without ; my poor tent
was now absolutely in rags, and the rain came
down as if in mockery of any covering whatever.
My pipe, dear companion of my travels, could
not aid me in dispersing the sombre phantoms
that these silent lonely hours summoned up ; for
I could scarcely light it ere it was filled with
water.
April 29th. — The day dawned in rain and mist;
at six o'clock coff'ee was served to the troops
from my little store, and soon after the column
was in motion. The " Mogites " appeared upon
our rear and left flank to the number of three or
four thousand, but contented themselves with yells
and menacing gestures as we defiled slowly away ;
weary, cold, and cheerless, as on the day before
58 CENTEAL AFEICA.
we had bivouacked on this inhospitable soil. The
country is picturesque, and the first signs of culti-
vation appear as we proceed. The " Mogi " plant
only " dourah," the production of which in a
limited way is almost the sole culture of the Abide
of Central Africa.
Bivouac at four o'clock amid a pelting rain.
All my suite have fever, save my two soldiers.
April SOth. — At six o'clock a.m., the r^veil
having roused the camp at five for preparations as
usual, we are en route. The fever of the night-
before had left me weak and exhausted, but I soon
threw off its influence when once mounted. The
Mogi still followed in my rear. As the route be-
came difficult and of a jungle character, I deter-
mined to engage the enemy, who evidently hoped
to gain advantage of a pass at the base of two
mountains, through which we were obliged to
defile. With a handful of men detached from the
rear-guard, I attacked them sharply with ball and
bayonet : they precipitately fled, and the road was
.thus left open.
A three hours' march brought us to " Lahore,"
the country of a friendly Sheik called "Wani;"
many of our porters were natives of this country,
being in friendly intercourse with the Fatiko
tribes. As we rested beneath the friendly shade
of a tree, for the sun, in the interval of rain that
falls, shows itself with fiercest beams, I noticed
with curious gaze the salutations of parents that
THE " LABORE." 59
came to visit their cliildren who made up a part
of our porters. The "old man" would take be-
tween his two hands the head of the prodigal
Abide, and gathering a mouthful of saliva, eject
it upon his forehead and eyes, which in turn
was applied by the son to different parts of
the body.
The " Lahore " speak the language of the Madi,
whose country is adjacent ; in appearance he has
the same outward characteristics as the Bari, with-
out his timidity or his treachery. The Labore
woman resembles the Bari female in everything,
except that the tail, which hangs from behind, is
much longer and almost reaches the ground.
The men and women are, as a general rule, ugly
and brutal-looking.
At six o'clock I observed a partial eclipse of the
moon.
The 1st of May at six o'clock we broke camp,
marching through a mountainous and uneven
country, arriving at night at Loquia, where we
encamped.
May 2nd. — At six o'clock a.m., with accustomed
regularity, the troop is put in motion ; the route
leads through jungle and over tortuous stony
paths. Our negro guide lost completely the way ;
aided by my compass however I found it myself, and
thereby secured a most exalted reputation among
my negroes, here totally at fault. These roads
are simply paths broken through the jungle by
CO CENTRAL AFRICA.
elephant or buffalo, in this respect mucli more
provident than the negro, who avails himself only
of the serpentine path made by animals. At one
o'clock p.m. we arrived at the " Bahr-el- Asua ; "
a river whose rocky and uncertain bed, now ford-
able, becomes a raging stream later under the
influence of the rains. This latter information
came from the natives, but I crossed it later in
the rainy season (month of October), and I found
it fordable though much swollen ; its width here is
about one'hundred yards, and its depth from three
to four feet. We marched nine hours to-day ; at
three o'clock bivouacked. The consequent fatigue
has greatly told upon Ibrahim, my dragoman ;
who whether from his scare at Mogi or otherwise,
is now a constant victim to most fearful attacks of
fever.
The 3rd of May we arrived at " Shagarah-el-
Miani," Miani's Tree, a point reached by Miani, a
well-known African traveller, who returning to
Khartoum under the most adverse circumstances,
that here demand an expression of sympathy from
me, undertook an expedition to the Bahr-el-Ghazal,
where, ere he had accomplished his purpose,
misery and suffering in a deadly climate claimed
him as a victim.
At this place, Suleiman with his Dongolowee
command, left me to go westward to Fabbo and
Faloro (ivory stations). My servant Kellerman
here disheartened by the rigours of his African life.
BREAK-DOWN OF KELLERMAN. 61
utterly broke down, and announced himself to me
as a " gentleman and a soldier, and the son of a
Marshal." This was a further aggravation of my
position, since 1 had hoped, against my better
judgment, that Kellerman already become a bur-
den, w^ould either leave me, or adapt himself to
his ill-advised determination to accompany me.
I would have sent him back, but I had not the
heart to abandon him to the uncertain care of the
savages.
En route, I had an exciting chase to flank a
troop of " ^rial" deer, but they are too wild, and
my shots were made only with the object of
frightening, rather than with the hope of reaching
them ; I succeeded however in wounding one in
the neck, but he got away with the rest of the
herd.
We encamped at four o'clock amid a fearful
rainstorm.
The 4th of May at six o'clock, amid jungles
and country cut by numerous ravines, we com-
menced the weary march, losing the way at every
moment ; the clouds hung heavy above us, and a
thick mist prevented us from bemg certain of the
road. At half-past one p.m. we bivouacked.
During the march two of our porters succumbed
to the fatigue of the route and insufficient food,
uncooked "Dourah" being their only nourish-
ment. Their comrades quickly divested them of
whatever poor ornaments or beads they possessed,
G2 CENTRAL AP'iflCA.
heartlessly leaving them without burial — a negli-
gence that horrified me then, but to which I soon
became familiar in my intimate life among these
tribes, where heartlessnessj brutality, and selfish-
ness are the rule.
We encamped under the shadow of the Shoua
mountains, from which point Fatiko, a military
post flanked by Gebel Franke, could be seen in
the distance, over a country less wild and with
but little jungle to obstruct the view. Mj camp
was pitched among huge boulders of rock, with
a grateful little rippling rivulet making its way
through them. The close and sultry day had
given place to a clear sky and a brilliant sunset,
causing an elevation of spirits among all my suite
and as well among the poor Fatiko porters, who
assembled to partake of their frugal repast
(dourah), now for the first time prepared with
boiling water, since fire had been denied them by
the incessant rains, that had rendered the use of
fuel impossible, by reason of its complete satura-
tion.
Whilst my soldiers were pitching my tent I had
strolled around the mountain that hid from view
the setting sun, and noticed the portentous cloud
that emitted sharp, quick flashes of lightning,
coming rapidly upon the horizon, but which, be-
hind the mountain was ignored by all. On my
return to camp, the now happy Fatiko flattering
himself that his repose for the night would be
ADDEESS OF GIMMORO. 63
unbroken, and glad of heart that on the morrow
he would rejoin his tribe and kindred at Fatiko,
was giving vent to boisterous cries of joy. The
moment seemed propitious' to " Gimmoro," the
native Sheik ''grand diplomat," to exhibit his
powers not only as a rain-maker, but as a rain-
controUer as well. The heavens were bright with
stars, and the Fatiki were assembled in congress,
Gimmoro addressed them as follows : —
" 0 Lubari, thou who art my slave, thou who
hast maltreated my people on the road and wet
them continually ! I order thee not to do so
again ; leave them then, and go away at my bid-
ding ! "
The Fatiki received this speech of their Sheik
with confidence and enthusiasm, and around
a grateful fire retired to sleep ; two hours later, a
fearful drenching storm fell upon the camp, put-
ting out the fires, and rendering sleep impossible.
In the morning, observing great commotion
among the Abides, I learned that they had lost all
confidence in Gimmoro, and threats were being
made to dispossess him, nay more, kill him for his
diplomatic failure. I went to his aid, however, in
explaining to his followers that as a rain-maker
myself, and of greater influence, I had addressed
myself secretly to Lubari that it might rain, and
that Gimmoro could not be held responsible for
the disobedience of his orders. This was believed,
and the credulous Fatiki retained their Sheik. I
F
64 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
have said elsewhere that the Negro has no innate
idea of a Divinity; his superstition and his
caprice acting in place thereof. " Lubari " in
more than one African idiom signifies " firma-
ment;" and in appealing to Lubari, rain that falls
therefrom is meant for and becomes their god, the
Jupiter Pluvius and obedient servant of their Sheik,
without which power no Sheik may be chosen.
At six o'clock we put ourselves en route,
arriving after a brisk march at Fatiko at half-past
eleven a.m. Huge rocks lined the wayside, on
whose heights were perched the anxious comrades
of my porters, gathered to welcome their return.
A halt was made for the purpose of allowing my
escort to dofi' their soiled and tattered uniforms
for brisrhter ones. When we resumed the march
over a country, where great granite rocks peered
from the rolling ground, and where splendid
springs of water gushed forth, two abrupt moun-
tains in close proximity to the camp, lent to the
landscape a boldness that was pleasant to the eye.
The garrison in open order received me at the
gate ; their snowy uniform in strange contrast to
their ebony hue ; for the men and officers compose
a part of the Soudanieh Corps, many of whom
wear the decoration for service in their Mexican
campaign. I was received with enthusiasm by
the whole garrison, and by the officers. A formal
reception, as is customary, was immediately given
me, as I was shown to a neatly-constructed hut,
ARRIVAL AT FATIKO. 65
where I stood to receive the native ofi&cers as
they passed in and out through, the opposite door,
with the accustomed Alakoum Salaam. They
heard with, astonishment that I was going to the
Great Lake, with only two soldiers and my ser-
vants ; and many were the exclamations of
"Wallai*" (by God), made by these men, who
knew the almost desperate venture on which I
was embarking, and thus expressed their astonish-
ment at my rashness.
CHAPTER VIT.
Fatiko, its strong position — Adjutant-Major Abdallah — Lango
and Lobbohr — Wat-el-Mek — Merissa — Unsavoury Milk
— Dances of the Soudanieh Soldiers — March southward —
Jungles, bogs — Elephant holes — Fetid odours — Son of
the ex-king Rionga — Prepare to cross the Nile — Dangers
from Hippopotami and Crocodiles — Successful Passage of
the River — Foueira — Reception of Said and Abd-el-
Rahman by their former Comrades — The ex-king Rionga
— Keba Rega — Riongi Pottery — Obliged to leave the
Albert Nyanza question partially unsolved.
Fatiko is a neat little earthwork surrounded by
a fosse about ten feet deep, constructed by Sir
Samuel Baker, flanked on its western side by a
huge rock mountain tkat serves as well for a
look-out. Its position and construction render it
almost impregnable, certainly against any African
force. From its rocky eminence one migbt see the
Nile, though more than a day's march distant
westward, winding its serpentine way from the
Albert Nyanza. The commander of the post was
Adjutant-Major Abdallah, who, with many other
officers on service in those regions, was one of the
Soudanieh Corps, that served in the Mexican
campaign under Bazaine. During my stay at the
ADJUTANT-MAJOR ABD ALLAH. Q'7
post he wore Ms decoration of tlie Legion of
Honour, conferred by the late Emperor Napoleon
upon him and others, when his corps, return-
ing, passed through Paris. It gives me no little
pleasure to refer here to the cleanliness and
discipline of his command, and the esprit de corps
which he had instilled into both oflScers and
men ; nor can I now forget to mention the care
and consideration with which my every wish was
complied with; for, thus early in the march, I
was obliged to ask his aid in making our only tent
habitable, by countless patches from a few yards of
cotton-cloth in his possession. At the same time
he also gave me several donkeys which, notwith-
standing their savage and "mulish" propensities,
rendered me very great service. These donkeys
are found in " Lango " and " Lobbohr," ' countries
lying east and south-east of Fatiko ; whence the
natives, speaking an unknown idiom, had already
reached Fatiko, and had come beseeching the
commander of the post to aid their tribe in rob-
bing and enslaving an adjacent hostile people ! —
^ Sir Samuel Baker has said in " Ismailia," vol. ii. page
119, "In the Lobbohr there is a river called Juba ; this is,
I believe, the Juba that flows into the Indian Ocean."
Having been called to command the land forces, in an
Expedition organized by his Highness the Khedive in the month
of September, 1 875, on the East coast of Africa, with a view
to geographical and scientific research, I explored the unknown
river Juba for a distance of 150 miles. Its source, however,
could not for the moment be definitely ascertained.
68 CENTRAL AFRICA.
a proposal that tlie gallant ojBScer repelled with
disdain. I refrain from any outburst of enthu-
siasm in regard to this place, and cannot concur
in Sir S. Baker's eulogy of the Fatiko country as
the Paradise of Central Africa. Here in the
immediate vicinity are two wild bluff-like moun-
tains ; whilst afar on the horizon in the vicinity of
the river may be seen Faloro and Fabbo; for
the rest, a low table-land that soon loses itself, as
you turn southward, in that low marshy pestife-
rous country of Unyoro, through whose confines
we are to pass.
Wat-el-Mek, the wekil of Abou Saoiid, has been
made no unimportant figure in the expedition of
Sir S. Baker. Among the ofiicers who, on the
day of my arrival, defiled past me in salutation,
as I stood to receive them in the neat little hut
assigned me, I noticed a tall, very black man,
dressed in the uniform peculiar to the " Dongo-
lowee " — a long white tunic, confined at the waist
by a belt which supported a Turkish scimitar —
Turkish "bags" of same material, bound up to
the knees, however, by leggings of raw-hide, his
feet encased in Turkish slippers. Sundry little
talismans in leather, the peculiar mark of distinc-
tion of the inhabitants of the Soudan, hung from
his belt, his face was deeply marked with small-
pox, and the effect of "Merissa" was clearly
shown in his husky voice and blood-shot eyes.
Merissa is a fermented beverage known in all
WAT-EL-MEK. 69
Central Africa, and made either of dourali or
bananas, and is the great drink common to all
these negroes. This was Wat-el-Mek.
Neither Abou Saoiid, nor Wat-el-Mek ever
seemed to me necessary to the government of
these provinces ; since they could not but long for
the entire possession of a country they deemed
their own. This appeared to me so natural that
I looked upon "Wat-el-Mek, as I had on Abou,
as opposed to the object of my mission, and the
mission of the government, then at Gondokoro.
Having no incentive to evil, however, Wat-el-Mek
was possibly a very good fellow ; and my mention
to him of his connexion with the expedition of
Sir S. Baker gave him great pleasure. At this
time he was exercisino; the function of Sheik- el-
Bilad over the Fatiko country, under the pro-
tection of the garrison at Fatiko. He desired
to accompany me southward as far as Foueira,
the last outpost on the Nile on the borders of
IJnyoro (Keba Rega's country), where there was
a Dongolowee camp of eighty soldiers, in addi-
tion to 190 regular soldiers of the Soudanieh
Corps.
The Adjutant-Major Abdallah interested him-
self so far in my trip southward, though he con-
sidered it Utopian at that season, when the rains
had become absolutely terrible, as to offer to
detach from his command, weakened by disease
and wounds from which the soldiers suffered in
70 CENTEAL AFRICA.
passing tlie esch (jungle grass), a soldier whose
name was Selim, a native of Zanzibar, and who
spoke the Ugunda language. I gladly accepted
the offer, and Selim was added to my force. As
the Adjutant-Major told me he would be a check
upon the machinations of the wily Ba Beker, who
had already commenced to show signs of jealousy,
and of whose character for treachery, already
known to the Adjutant-Major, I had been con-
vinced from the first.
On the morning of the 8th of May. whilst
struggling with an attack of fever, I received a
visit from '" Gimmoro," who brought me a gourd
of milk as an expression of gratitude for saving
him, at an opportune moment, his position. Burn-
ing with fever, I drained at one draught a goblet
full of the foaming fluid, ere the sense of taste
could detect the nauseous mixture ; my stomach,
however, quickly rebelled and rejected in violent
retching /the unsavoury potion, seven-eighths of
which were simply the urine of the cow ! ! — a
practice, by-the-bye, common to all Central
Africans, who never drink milk unless thus
mixed. This fetish and superstition thereby in-
sures protection for thp cow, here as on the Bahr-
el-Abiad, mysteriously connected with the un-
known :< a shadow possibly of the old Egyptian
worship.
The Fatiko men wear across their shoulders,
leaving thus their persons exposed, only a small
DANCES OP THE SOUDANIEH SOLDIERS. 71
skin of leopard, wild-cat, or deer. The women
generally go entirely naked ; their head-dress
being the sole object of adornment, and certainly
in this respect they rank with the most accom-
plished coiflPeur. c
As soon as the sun sinks, night, unheralded
by twilight, comes quickly on. Then the happy
Soudanieh soldiers gather around a blazing fire,
that serves to warm them, as well as to illuminate
the scene. His "bint" (woman) joins him in the
dance — now the nightly orgies. And it so closely
resembles the " Cancan " of the Jardin Mabille,
that I have often speculated on the possibility of
that famous dance having originated here, while
watching and envying the gambols of these grown-
up children, under such adverse circumstances.
From the 9th to the 11th of May I was occu-
pied in preparations for my trip southward, in
recovering strength, and in mending my tent.
Kellerman and my cook were both very ill, but
insisted on accompanying me. The morning of the
12th, at half-past eight o'clock, we quitted Fatiko.
The Adjutant-Major gave mo an escort as far as
Foueira, and Wat-el-Mek accompanied me as well
as Selim, though Ba Beker had strenuously resisted
his appointment. The truth was that Selim spoke
the TJgunda language, and would be invaluable to
me as an interpreter. Ba Beker saw and feared
this; and his jealousy of Selim was very appa-
rent.
72 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Though, weak and ill from fever, and almost
unable to mount my horse, I gladly take the road ;
as inaction and uncertainty are great incentives
to fever with me. The route runs through great
jungles, and is rough, wild, and uninhabited.
Elephant, deer, and buffalo abound in great
numbers. I succeeded in bringing down a deer,
firing from my horse; but a wide stretch of
nauseous bog prevented me from getting the
game. My poor horse, Ugunda, struggles and
slips through the black pasty ground, and often
falls into the great elephant holes that one sees
at every step. "We bivouacked at four o'clock,
and here we are all attacked with severe fever.
Mmj ISth. — En route at seven a.m., the road
is very difficult, and the rain terrible. During
the march a herd of tetel {A.ntilope hiibalis) cross
my path; a chance quick shot wounds one in
the neck. Bivouac amid rain-storm at three
o'clock.
May 14th. — Fetid odours asphyxiate us as we
pass the low marshy plains. Here, as elsewhere
in Africa, we were obliged to drink water from the
elephant and buffalo holes, and the smell and taste
is nauseating in the extreme. Rain at two o'clock ;
and we bivouac.
May 16th. — Our guide lost the way this morn-
ing ; found it, however, though the rain prevents
our seeing ahead of us. At mid-day we are
obliged to encamp.
PEEPAEE TO CROSS THE NILE. 73
Mo/if 16f/i. —En route at six o'clock. The Inimi-
dity is very great ; the route leads through jungle
that, the natives tell me, becomes almost impas-
sable a few months later — a perfect netted mass of
grass. A march of eight hours brings us in
close proximity to the river, where we encamp,
to await the preparations for our transit across.
This they told me; but delay is ever one of
the ingredients of life in Central Africa ; here it
really means to give time to the post to prepare
to receive me with proper honours ; and, as cus-
tomary, allow my escort time to wash and renew
their tattered uniforms.
May 17th. — At early dawn we broke camp and
approached the river through a long, deep marsh,
overgrown in jungle-grass and papyrus ; sinking
to the knees at each step in the liquid inky soil,
" Ugunda " jumps, starts with terror as the mud
yields under his weight. More than an hour was
consumed in this march of a mile only. We
arrived finally on the banks of the river, where we
found awaiting us boats sent by the Adjutant-
Major, and with them the son of the ex-king
Rionga, an intelligent, good-looking young negro of
eighteen years, who had been sent by Rionga to
salute me and aid in my transit of the river.
The river Nile is here 100 yards wide and very
deep, describing a westerly course as it passes to
Karuma Falls, where its hoarse murmur is dis-
tinctly heard not far away. On the opposite bank
/4 OENTEAL AFRICA.
(south) is " Foueira," a military post under com-
mand of Adjutant-Major Baba-Tuka. The high
opposing banks, almost cliffs, render the scene
quite imposing — in striking contrast to the low-
lands that have marked the journey from Fatiko.
The river is filled with hippopotami and croco-
diles ; the former in undisturbed possession seemed
to dispute our passage, by their uncomfortable
proximity and fearful roars ; the latter were still
more dangerous. Not a day passed but that some
too venturesome native was seized in or near the
river. To swim my horse across them was not
to be thought of. What was I to do ? To
build a raft would take too much time ; and the
" dug-outs " trembled under the tread of a man.
A tree had served as the dug-out of one of
them; and I resolved, if possible, to induce
" Ugunda " to enter it, placing weeds, grass, and
mud over the interval between the edge and the
bank. The poor beast trembled with fear, and
refused absolutely to move. With the assistance
of Said, however, I bound my handkerchief over
his eyes, and with the help of the Abides finally
forced him into the uncertain canoe : poor
"Ugunda" shook with fear, as conscious of the
danger, for the slightest movement would have
caused it to upset, and sent us all into the jaws of
the crocodiles, who were only kept away now by
a volley of balls into their midst, so audacious
had they become.
SUCCESSFUL PASSAGE OF THE EIVER. 75
The excitement attendant upon getting him in
the boat, and the dread of losing the faithful beast
gave place, on my safely reaching the opposite
shore, to a wild exclamation of joy, in which the
Rionga Abides heartily joined ; Ugunda himself
looked more appreciative than a horse might be
expected under such circumstances. I had another
reason to be thankful ; fever and lassitude had for
several days attacked me, my few rations were
exhausted, and weary and ill I welcomed this
last military post as a haven of rest. Could I
have looked into the future, and seen a pano-
ramic view of the perils that awaited me in my
voyage south, and my return six months later at
this post, almost dead with starvation and disease,
I would have thought but little of my ills then in
comparison. As I ascended the high bluff-like
bank on which the camp is situated, I was received
first by the Dongolowee irregulars with their cus-
tomary honours : namely, the firing of guns, that
results often in accident to themselves, and to him
who is being honoured. Farther up the bank, I
passed to the camp of the regular garrison, com-
posed of about 190 men of the same Soudanieh
Corps spoken of at Fatiko. Like the latter, men
and ofiicers had served in Mexico, and the com-
manding ofl&cer, Baba Tuka, wears the decoration
of the "Legion of Honour." His troops received
me at open order, with " Salaam Dohr," presented
arms ! It needed but a glance to recognize in
76 CENTRAL AFRICA.
these black veterans the auxiliaries of Bazaine,
for tlieir soldierly bearing, even in this fearful
climate, was still maintained, though, they had
been here several years. The camp was a model
of neatness and order.
Said and Abd-el-Rahman belonged to this
corps; and they were received with enthusiastic
" wallai's " from their ancient comrades.
The earthwork is surrounded by a fosse of
insignificant depth ; the camp itself is composed
of the straw huts common to the country.
Without the camp, and along the river bank,
the banana is seen in groves that, commencing
from this point, mark the entire country south-
ward. Here, as in Ugunda, the peculiar tree of
the country is a species of wild-fig, the adjunct of
every hut, cultivated for its bark that is cut in
strips as long as the trunk of the tree and then
prepared by being beaten with a peculiar wooden
instrument. The pieces are sewn together neatly,
making quite a large sheet, which is worn like the
Roman toga, the two ends being tied over the left
shoulder.
Rionga, dispossessed of his kingdom at Mrooli
by Kamrasi, the late king of Unyoro, lives at
Rionga Island, eight to ten miles from the camp at
Foueira. He has always been friendly to the
government, and has sought its protection. Brave
and warlike, he is still surrounded by his faithful
subjects and fellow-exiles, and still dreams of re-
THE EX-KING EIONGA. 77
gaining his throne. I was singularly impressed
with the ex-king, a man of fifty years of age. A
shade of perpetual melancholy rests upon his
modest and handsome features. Of a slight copper
tint, Rionga has none of the characteristics of the
negro ; loyal and honest, the Adjutant-Major has
told me that his word is his bond. Keba Rega's
crown rests uneasily upon his head so long as
Rionga lives ; for he feels, that at no distant day,
Rionga will avenge upon him the injuries done
him by his predecessor Kamrasi. They told me
that only a few days before my arrival Keba Rega
had written to the Adjutant-Major professing love
for the government, and offering a large sum of
ivory to betray Rionga into his hands !
Rionga pays tribute of ivory to M'Tse, whenever
the opportunity offers to evade the vigilance of
Keba Rega, through whose territory it is obliged
to pass. I made him several insignificant presents
of beads and tarbouches, and he invited me to
visit him, on my route southward, at his palace at
Kissembois.
The Riongi tribe, as well as the Unyori and
Ugundi, speak a common language. The two
former wear, in many cases, the cloth spoken of
previously as manufactured from the bark of a
tree ; the greater portion, however, go entirely
naked, whilst in Ugunda clothing is obligatory.
If the government of Rionga is weak, I believe he
never exercises over his subjects the punishment
G
78 CENTllAL AFRICA.
of deatli ; nor does he use fhe strange hereditary
prerogative of African kings, as Keba Eega and
M'Tse, of wholesale massacre, if caprice should
will it. Their colour is less of that copper hue
that distinguishes the Ugundi, but they are tall
and muscular and capable of great fatigue. Their
principal food is banana, sweet potatoes, and fish ;
they raise cattle and goats, but strange to say,
like other negroes, they make no other use than of
the milk. The winged ant serves as an article
of food for the poorer classes, a fact cited in
notes of expedition to the Makraka Niam-Niam,
as a necessity consequent upon the absence of
meat. The Eiongi manufacture pottery of curious
device, and their milk jars and pots are really
beautiful; the gourd that grows here, however,
has been admirably adapted by nature for holding
liquids, whether milk, or the " Merissa," the very
general intoxicating beverage used by all tribes
along the Bahr-el-Abiad. In common with the
tribes in question they are armed with the lance.
My stay was prolonged at Foueira, first because
Kellerman and Adam were both too sick to
march ; the former having with strange infatuation
persuaded me to permit him to accompany me ;
and, in the next place, because of the difiiculties
of procuring a few porters, to carry baggage, and
the presents intended for King M'Tse.
In my report, dated from this place to Col.
Gordon, I said, " In returning I shall force my
THE ALBERT NYAKZA QUESTION UNSOLVED. 79
way througli the Lake Albert, thence north back
by the river to the highest navigable point." On
my return, without the means, I was obliged to
leave the question of the Albert Nyanza still un-
solved, when it was fairly in my grasp, for reasons
which shall be given later.
CHAPTER VIII.
March southward — Changes ia mj Troop — Arrival at
Kissembois — Kindly received by Rionga — Mosquitoes —
Jungle fever — Pinto — Depart for Ugunda — Cruelty of a
Sheik — Filthy water — River Kafou — General Sickness —
Uninteresting scenery — Fire " against the country " —
Morako, the Sheik, makes a Raid — Enter Ugunda —
Dreadful Roads of Putrid Mud — The Grand Kahotah —
Invitation to Ugunda — Arrest of Ibrahim, my Dragoman
— Illness of Said — We march, preceded by the Kahotah,
to the Court (Jf M'Tse — Flag of Ugunda— Body-guards of
M'Tse — Halted in front of the Palac6 — Taken for a
Centaur — Led to my Zeriba — Sound Repose.
On tlie morning of the 25tli of May, after many-
attempts that had proved vain, I started south-
ward with the followers heretofore mentioned,
with the addition of " Selim." The rains were
now almost incessant, and the roads running
sluices. My dragoman Ibrahim was becoming
drunken, disobedient and surly; more than once
he had intimated that I was taking him into the
country to die; and his cowardly conduct at
"Mogi" left me entirely without the slightest
confidence in him. Suleiman, my brave and
faithful Sai's, suffering from an old wound, from
KINDLY EECEIVED BY KIONGA. 81
poisonous grass, that here is very difficult to
cure, liad become entirely helpless, really in a
pitiable state : and I was obliged, much against
my will, to leave him at the garrison. Selim was
appointed Sai's, and " Ugunda " was transferred to
his care. As I rode on, in front -of my little
column that morning, already weakened by fever,
and suffering from my now chronic state of wet,
I tried to think that I was more hopeful than on
the morning I had left Gondokoro, just one month
before : but the painful conclusion forced itself
upon me, that I was without a reasonable hope of
success. I look back to that ride, that morning,
as among the darkest hours of my life. More
than once I decided to abandon an enterprise
that now began to look fool-hardy — for failure
meant certain death. In the midst of this gloomy
and uncertain mood, we arrived at Kissembois,
after four and a half hours' march.
Rionga came to greet me arrayed in his war
dress, which consisted of a wonderful robe made
of the bark of tree, but wrought in the most
beautiful manner; parallel lines of black dots
crossed the Roman like costume; whilst with
sandals on his feet and spear in hand, " he looked
every inch a king." I was quickly surrounded
by his men of state, all dressed in cloth similar
to that worn by Rionga, but more simple. His
numerous wives stood without the circle, and
their repeated " Wah ! wahs ! " proclaimed their
82 CENTRAL AFRICA.
astonislmient at sight of both white man and horse.
Huts were assigned me, and soon his sons came
bearing me great pots of milk, bunches of bananas,
sweet potatoes, and "merissa" made from com-
pressed bananas. This drink has been highly
spoken of by Sir Samuel Baker, and both he and
Lady Baker were accustomed to drink it ; to me,
however, both the odour and flavour were dis-
gusting.
At night, a dance was given in my honour ; the
novelty of which caused me to forget, for the
moment, my sombre thoughts and forebodings. I
made them several presents of beads, cloth, tin
fifes, &c. I had with me a small magnetic battery
with which I gave them a rude exhibition ; that is
to say, I knocked several of them down. If I
were an enthusiast in the idea of the quick rege-
neration of the African, I would suggest the use
of the magnetic battery ; it clothes the possessor
with every attribute human and divine, and the
negro yields a ready submission. This little
"Lubari" was an open sesame for me to the
African heart; and with my horse "Ugunda,"
my good star had placed in my hands two
talismans that were to win success, where others
stronsf in resources, arms, and soldiers had
failed.
I scarcely need add that each shock ad-
ministered them (and they were by no means
delicate ones), was received with shouts of
JUNGLE PEVEB. 83
laughter and Wall ! walis ! of wonder and super-
stitious awe. I turned from the friendly crowd
with a lighter heart : I had a friend in the future
I had not counted upon. We then were five,
viz. myself, Said and Abd-el, " Ugunda " my
horse, and little " Lubari," the magnetic ma-
chine.
The mosquitoes here were so thick, and their
bites so irritating and poisonous, that sleep was
impossible. Kissembois is situated in the bend
of the river, that here, in a serpentine way regains
its general direction southward or south-eastward.
The land is low and boggy, and during the night,
Kellerman, Ibrahim, and myself, had a most
violent attack of jungle fever : whose first intima-
tion is felt in a benumbed sensation, that crawls
like ice along the vertebral column, followed by
violent fever and utter prostration.
May 26th. — Ba Beker, who now has charge of
my porters, delays departure, and claims that he
must return to Foueira in order to bring up some
porters that have failed to arrive. The excuse
is made simply to take advantage of the boun-
teous hospitality of Rionga ; and to drink freely
of the large quantity of merissa sent me every
day.
I showed them my Reilly Gun, No. 8 Elephant,
and established a reputation and sobriquet of
"El-Chadide," (the great), by planting an explosive
shell in the centre of a tree a hundred yards
84 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
distant, the ball crashing througli, and making a
clean liole in its transit. At night, the accustomed
dance was given. The ex-king was surrounded
by Ms Mtongoli (ministers) in respectful attitudes
on tlieir knees. At the feet of Rionga sat his
chief musician, wbo evoked not unpleasant music
from a well-made guitar. The colour of my hair,
face, and uniform was a never ending source of
remark, and ejaculations of astonishment.
Whilst seated in my hut the door was suddenly
darkened by the figure of a boy, who came as
porter of an extra jug of " merissa." " Pinto "
told me his name, and proclaimed himself at
once the favourite and the buffoon of Rionga
by his contortions of face and witty sayings (he
spoke Arabic from his constant intercourse with
the garrison); "Pinto" looked askance at some
red beads and red cotton cloth that, as he said,
"would make him a Sheik at once." They
were given him unfortunately for my peace of
mind,, for like Oliver Twist he begged for more
incessantly.
May 28th. — No longer able to restrain my
anger, at being compelled by these bacchanalians
to remain in this feverish encampment, I called
Rionga and begged him to compel my men to
march. He did so, and soon packages of food
sewed in skins, and my tin cases were distributed
among the porters who, as usual, screamed and
chattered in angry discussion. When all was
DEPART FOE UGUNDA. 85
ready I bade adieu to Baba Tiicka, tlie Adjutant-
Major wbo had accompanied me thus far. To him
and Rionga I said, " If I come back at all, look
for me by the river." Rionga replied to me,
" Impossible ; you can never return by the river,
no one has ever gone or can go to M'Tse by the
river : the Keba Regas will prevent you."
Rionga had arrayed himself in the same costume
in which he had received me ; he came now to bid
me adieu, and whispered to me in an undertone
as I mounted my horse, " Beware of Ba Beker,
he is as false as a fox!" an admonition that
proved of service to me ; since I watched him
closely and checkmated all his endeavours to ruin
me, when later he became jealous of the influence
I exercised over King M'Tse.
Scarcely had I left camp when Ugunda com-
menced " to go lame," whether shamming or not,
I do not know ; but the following day he had
quite recovered the use of his leg.
The country is flat with here and there several
mountains, which like Pyramids in the distance,
rise from its depressed plane, to break the
monotony of the scene.
I shall ask the reader to go with me through
my itinerary, with its record of perpetual rain,
fever, and misery, to the capital at Ugunda.
May 29th. — "Mirabile dictu !" no rain last night,
the porters make every excuse not to march to-
day, and I am therefore compelled to submit.
86 CENTEAL AFRICA.
The inaction of camp is far more dreaded by me
than the .fatigue of the march. During the day
" Morako," a " Mtongoli," Sheik of an Ugunda
province, exasperated with one of his men who
had drunk up his " merissa," brutally cut off both
his ears. The cries and screams of the victim
are terrific, and rendered hideous by the inter-
mingled jeers of laughter from'liis comrades, who
looked unfeelingly on. The punishment by
cutting off of the ears is a prerogative of a
minister, or " Mtongoli " of Ugunda ; whilst to
M'Tse alone belongs the power to put to death.
May 30^/i. — We marched seven hours and a half
to-day through rain and mist ; the water that we
are obliged to drink is execrable ; the spongy
earth quickly absorbs the rain, save that whicb here
and there collects in great holes, the tramping
ground of elephant and buffalo. The water is a
mixture of their excretions, and of this, with tongue
parched with fever, we are obliged to drink. Fetid
odours arise from the black marshy ground, and
almost asphyxiate us as we pass over it. During
the march Ba Beker sends a boy reeking with
small pox to march near me ; three times I had
him sent to the rear, but his return the third time
seemed to me so studied, that I was compelled
to lecture Ba Beker severely.
Maij ^Ist. — Fever of last night abated ; en route
at seven a.m., and pass Mrooli. The Keba Regas
(Unyori) come out from their village, and content
THE EIVER KAFOU. 87
themselves witTi savas^e looks. The river is in
sight frora here, and has quite a lake-like
appearance ; at midday we cross the river Kafou,
a stream of three feet deep, but which swells later
to a much greater depth. It was hence that, follow-
ing its course for a certain distance, Sir Samuel
Baker in his first expedition went westward to
the Lake Albert Nyanza; the Kafou being the
farthest point that he reached southward.
All my people are ill save Sai'd and myself.
Abd-el-Rahman has a fearful attack, whilst later
in the day a genuine " jungle " seized me, effect of
which leaves one almost in a state of collapse. Ba-
nanas have become our almost only food, varied now
and then with a potage of " dourah," that I make
myself, since Adam is perfectly worthless, and
Kellerman with strange perversity will not aid me.
The natives and my porters envelope the unripe
banana in its huge leaf, and putting this in a
large earthen pot over the fire, they are thus
steamed and rendered palatable to the savage,
who scarcely ever eat the ripened fruit. In
Ugunda the fruit, in addition to this process, is
both roasted and dried ; the latter process being
preparatory to converting into a flour, from which
a very wholesome and palatable bread is made.
June 1st. — The storm that prevails prevents us
from marching; we cannot see the way, and are
thus doomed to inaction. The day is passed in
administering from a little store of quinine in my
88 CENTEAL AFRICA.
possession to rny suffering people. Left alone
to my sombre tliouglits, witli nothing of that
exhilirating effect that even the rigours of a
campaign sometimes excite in the bosoms of
those ever eager to exchange the haunts of
civilization for venture in a savage land —
hard, stern, self-imposed duty was my only
support under these trying circumstances. The
country,, cold and cheerless, forbade me those
sensations of . delight and ecstasy that have
become stereotyped by almost every traveller in
Africa, who, trusting that no other might be so un-
fortunate as himself, has painted imaginary scenery
that might vie with that of a Claude Melnotte.
■The quaint and uncertain histories of that great
Arab traveller, Ibn Batuta, had become a model
for his successors, anxious thus to acquire fame
and reputation, where the naked truth would
perhaps have been coldly received. I have never
seen in all Africa any views of landscape that
,merit notice except the scenery on the Lake
Victoria Nyanza.
Whilst encamped here my ten men given me by
Rionga presented themselves, asking that I would
" shoot three big guns against the country of
Unyoro (Keba Rega)," with which their tribe, as
already noted, is at constant war. I did not at
that moment feel disposed to humour them, and
they left me sadly disappointed. On the following
morning they again presented themselves, repeat-
THE CHEIK MORAKO. 89
ing the request of the day before, proffering at the
same time a present of Indian corn wrapped in
banana leaves. What a treasure, and relief from
my now unwholesome diet of " dourah " and
bananas ! In the enthusiasm of the moment I
order three shots to be fired in air " against the
country!" which was received with the greatest
satisfaction. This was one of the greatest feats of
diplomacy I had ever seen in Africa ; the stomach
had been appealed to instead of the heart, always
a vulnerable point with the negro ; he had applied
the law to me, find had won !
Day after day we march through rain, bog, and
slime over the marshy earth. Poor Ugunda groans,
and labours to extricate himself from the holes in
which he sometimes falls. I am obliged to dis-
mount and very often pull him, aided by my
porters, through the black, filthy mud. Rain and
misery by day, and misery and rain by night, with
the addition of the chilly atmosphere — these may
be accepted as the leading incidents of the route.
The 9th of June we arrived near Chagamoyo,
neutral ground, that separated Unyoro from
Ugunda, " Morako," the Cheik heretofore 'men-
tioned, taking with him my porters from the
territorial line into his oivn country Ugunda, for
the purpose of making a raid. On inquiry, I
found that this was a custom on. all roads passed
over by a great Sheik hke "Morako," and the
people captured were, by right of conquest, his
90 CENTRAL AFRKIA.
slaves. Here was a feature of tlie slavery ques-
tion I had not yet been .brought to consider;
though afterwards I learned by experiencej that
the greatest slave-dealer in Central Africa is the
Sheik of the tribe himself.
" Moi'ako " returned with three goats, three
sheep, three dogs, and three women; they had
rushed, with some old flint-locks, from the cover
of banana-trees into a circular open space, and
with fearful yells had made the above captures. I
should have been inclined to interfere, but the
women seemed perfectly contented, and appa-
rently accustomed to this change of life. My
interference however in any positive way would
have been as useless as ill-judged. I was power-
less to act, for I was not quite sure but that a worse
fate awaited myself.
The next day the 10th, the country changed
for the better, and the lowlands of Unyoro
gave place, as we entered Ugunda, to roads ivcll
sivept, that, *' Morako " tells me, have been
widened and - swept by orders of his great
master, M'Tse, who had sent him a messenger,
in response to a message sent by Morako, ap-
])rising him of the intended visit of a great
White Prince, whose face and features were unlike
those of the Ugunda, and whose strange " mount "
would astonish even M'Tse. The uncertain and
difficult mission which I had imposed upon myself
led me (as I became fully aware of the risk I had
MESSAGE TO m'tSE. 91
undertaken), to stndyto make up in diplomacy for
my very weak position. I had sent word by the
messenger " that a great Prince would visit him,
the great M'Tse, the greatest King of all Africa "
(I meant Central Africa). He was flattered by
the recognition of his greatness, whilst it gave me
a position to treat with him, and secured for me a
reception that was denied Speke, and caused him
to leave Ugunda with his plans almost foiled.
(M'Tse never forgave Captain Speke for insisting
upon sitting in his presence ; whilst to me he
accorded a seat near him, and caused his people
to prostrate themselves before me.)
A certain exhilaration now replaced the gloom
that had pervaded me. My lips were bursting
with fever, and bleeding, either the effect of poi-
sonous weeds, that sometimes in a vacant mood I
would put in my mouth in passing, or from the
fierce rays of the ^un that at tinies broke through
the generally overclouded heavens.
M'Tse had ordered these roads to be sivcft and
cleared, as they led over steep ascents. The red
clay soil marked their direction for miles through
a grass-covered country, or climbing the sides of
mountains, were lost to view in the misty. atmo-
sphere. At the base of these mountains run
treacherous muddy streams, almost impassable,
through which my horse reared and plunged, and
which often obliged me to dismount. I have been
forced to flounder waist deep in the disgusting
92 CENTEAL AFRICA.
putrid mud, and to wash off tlie paste from ray
person and my liorse, whilst waiting the tardy
passage of the porters. The water that we drank
here was execrable, and of the same character as
that already referred to. We bivouacked at four
o'clock in a banana grove, in the midst of which,
as usual, were now to be seen the neat straw huts,
divided into compartments, that distinguish in
their cleanness the habitations of the Ugunda.
The inhabitants fled on the approach of their
own people — a cause of congratulation in this
case, as I was only too glad to exchange the
nominal shelter of my tent for the comfortable
Ugunda hut.
Jime 11th. — The arrival of the Grand Kahotah
(Minister of Foreign Affairs), was announced by a
rush of his guard, who with drum and horns made
a deafening noise. He encamped near me in the
banana forest. He has brought me twenty cows
(the cows were not given me, but were kept by
the Kahotah), bananas, and tobacco; and an invi-
tation to come at once to Ugunda, and instruc-
tions were given to his messengers not to let the
White Prince, " Mbuguru," tread upon grass : that
is to say, to make me follow the road that he had
caused to be made for my reception.
African diplomacy willed it that I should
remain encamped for several days, nntil the king
should prepare a *' Zeriba," — enclosed huts
for myself and staff — and also have reported to
TEEACHERY OP IBRAHIM. 93
him whatever he might want to know of me in
advance. The " Kahotah " was a man of great
importance with M'Tse; besides preparing for
M'Tse pohtical dishes, he was also his cook,
and alone prepared the food that M'Tse always
ate alone. This chief then gave himself all the
airs of a man clothed in a little brief autho-
rity. His first message to me was, that *'he
would receive my visit at his hut." Here was
a quandary ; for to accede was to acknowledge
his superiority. I said simply to his mes-
senger (Selim acting as interpreter), that I came
to see M'Tse, and not the Kahotah. This seemed
to solve the difl&culty, since he sent me word
that he would come ; but the proud fellow never
did, and though he escorted me to Ugunda
we never met, but sent daily reciprocal saluta-
tions. Could anything have been more diplomatic ?
The faithful minister had doubtless orders that
my first interview should be with the king.
My dragoman Ibrahim, however, paid frequent
visits to the "Kahotah," whose representations
of M'Tse and his court bred in the wily Ibrahim
a desire to be a great man also. The stories of
great quantities of ivory incited his cupidity, and
the natural hypocrisy and deceit of the man
induced him to conspire against me. He assumed
the role of " fike," or priest, and so wofi upon
the Kahotah, that he finally believed the most
monstrous lies : that " I was going to see M'Tse,
H
94 CENTRAL AFIUCA.
and that my intention was to take the conntry
and supplant him as king; and other insinua-
tions tending to prevent my being permitted to
enter the capital. The faithful devotion of Sai'd
and Abd-el-Rahman, however, frustrated the
intrigues of Ibrahim. I arrested him on this and
other charges, that made his continuance with me
impossible, and therefore called upon the Sheik,
" Morako," for men to send him to Foueira.
By presents I induced him to give me the
guard for the moment, leaving him under sur-
veillance at the Zeriba of Morako, near by, until I
could ask M'Tse for a guard to send " an unfaith-
ful servant back to Foueira " — this was afterwards
granted, and M'Tse made the detail himself —
Ibrahim was returned safely in arrest. This
was a serious blow to me ; for I depended very
much upon this fellow as an interpreter and
writer, for at that time I spoke but little Arabic ;
I was, however, favoured by a fortuitous circum-
stance, for M'Tse had with him a dragoman
named " Ide," who served me in his stead.
Absolute necessity compelled me to speak Arabic,
and I did so finally with great success.
The rigours of the climate may be imagined
when Said, the last to succumb, has finally fallen
a victim to the fever. Born in the malarious
districts of the Bahr-el-Abiad, I considered him
proof against fever. On the morning of the 18th
of June we again resumed the route. M'Tse had
beautiful' view op ugunda. 95
finally sent permission j and ordered that I should
be pushed on with all haste. Through jungle,
mud, and banana grove, we pushed our way
followed by the Kahotah, with great tooting of
horns and incessant beating of drums ; the road,
of course, losing itself in these difficult passes.
After a long march, however, we came upon a
much finer country, where the roads were at least
twenty-five feet wide, and well kept. We ascend
a steep hill^ and from its height the beautiful
panorama of Ugunda unfolds itself to view,
spreading itself towards the Lake Victoria, over
which hung a misty veil of vapour. The country,
cut into hill and dale by its countless, almost
continuous banana forests was, by comparison, a
scene that well-nigh seduced me into enthusiasm ;
for I felt I was standing upon the threshold of the
mysterious region that enveloped Ugunda and
the Lake Victoria.
The 19th of June we left camp ; the route lay
over a rolling country flanked by the mountains
of " Yohomah." We arrived at Gebel Bimbah at
nine a.m., whence we continued the route till
mid-day, when we bivouacked. In a deserted
cabin, my men found and brought me a quantity
of pea-nuts of same kind as those which grow so
abundantly in California. We found plantains
large and dehcious here for the first time.
On the morning of the 20th of June the column
was in motion, preceded by the " Kahotah " at the
96
CENTRAL AFRICA.
head of a mass of men, whose numbers had now
swollen to about 4000.
The Ugunda flag consists of a white ground of
twelve inches wide from the staff, thirty-six inches
red, bordered with three pendant stripes of monkey
skin of long hair common to the country. It is a
significant fact that this is the only people I had,
or have since visited in Africa, who have a flag.
FLAG OF UGUNDA.
The flag of Ugunda was carried at the head of
the column, side by side with the Egyptian flag.
THE BODY-GUARDS OF m'tSE. 97
Horns and drums kept up a deafening noise ; tiie
latter instrument being accompanied by a vocal
imitation of the crow. These people, armed with
lances, formed in solid column of forty to fifty
front, the roads here permitting this formation ;
whilst on each side skirmishers dressed in a fantas-
tic uniform, with fez of flannel ornamented with
black feathers, performed the most remarkable evo-
lutions, whilst firing the uncertain firelocks with
which they were armed, with reckless disregard of
aim. These were the body-guards of M'Tse, and
had this curious privilege. On each side of the
column marched a numerous body of men, wholly
dressed in plantainleaves curiously arranged around
the body, who with grimace and wild gesticulation
kept time in dance and shouts to the accompany-
ing music. A curious throng of young girls peered
out with startled gaze from the great banana forests
through which the cortege passed ; or fled with
gazelle fleetness at the sight of man and horse !
It was a proud day for Said, Abd-el-Rahman, and
Selim, as they marched in front of me, dressed
in their gay uniform kept for the occasion.
" Ugunda," too, seemed proud of the distinction
of beinsr the first horse that had ever visited
Central Africa ; and who, through every season,
had defied the reputed, redoubted Tetse fly. His
diet of bananas had in no way depreciated
his appearance; though its effect upon me was
beginning to tell fearfully upon my health and
98 CENTRAL AFRICA.
strength, in the fearful derangement of the
stomach from which I was now a constant sufferer.
The column halted for a moment on a wide
plaza, cleanly swept; a high palisade enclosed
numerous well-built huts : whilst at the great
portal a mass of women were collected. This
was the residence of the Queen-Mother, the widow
of the deceased king Suna, the father of M'Tse. A
nicely-dressed slave in breathless haste came run-
ning from the gate, and throwing himself prostrate
at my feet, presented me her royal and gracious
salutation and welcome to Ugunda. My soldier
Selim interpreted him my thanks and salutations ;
and the column moved on over hill and ravine,
and through sloughs and bogs that, strange to say,
characterize every descent of elevated ground,
until ascending a high hill, I stood facing an eleva-
tion not 500 yards away, the palace of M'Tse,
King of Ugunda ! I forgot for the moment the
physical pain to which I was a victim, in the
strange coup-d'ceil that presented itself to my
view. A succession of hills, covered with banana
groves, rolled away and lost themselves in the
vapours, which seemed to hold in mystery the
Lake Victoria, and the unknown Nile. On every
hillside thousands of people were gathered: whilst
directly in front of me, at the outer gate of the
palace, stood M'Tse himself, surrounded by a great
throng of men and women. For a long distance
a mass of men struggling to catch sight of the
THE king's executioners. 99
"Mbugiiru; " in tlie immediate vicinity of my person
the natives had prostrated themselves ; whilst still
mounted I surveyed the novel scene. Soon with
lightning speed several messengers (Marsalah) come
running towards me, and throwing themselves at
my feet, conveyed to me the welcome of their king.
Selim thanked them in my name, and they hasten
back. These men merit description here. Chosen
for their ferocious appearance, there is the wild glare
of brutality in their gleaming eyes, and a long black
beard proclaimed them of other origin than the
Ugundi, undoubtedly Malay. Their dress consists
of a pantaloon of red and black flannel, bordered
with black : a tunic of red flannel with black stripes,
dolman-like across the breast, from which hangs
a fringe of a peculiar monkey skin ; a red cloth
turban, around which is wound in tasteful coils a
finely plaited rope-cord, badge and instrument of
their deadly office : for they are the hourreaux at
the court, executioners of M'Ts^'s undisputed
will ! M'Tse sends his messengers to ask that I
will approach, that he may see the animal on
which I am mounted. Only for a moment I felt a
sense of repulsion to all this show ; but I was no
lonsfer free to risk what had cost me so much
suffering, the sympathy and confidence of the
king. Gathering the reins in my hand, I drove
my spurs into the flanks of Ugunda, and sped
down the hill with fearful speed, amid the yells of
delight of the assembled throng. An instant the
100 CENTEAL AFRICA.
horse slipped and stumbled in a depression of
the uneven road ; quickly recovering however, I
rode towards M'Tse and his hareem, who broke in
flight with cries and screams of fright. Returning
I regained the hill, welcomed by the excited crowd
in loud and hoarse shouts. In the act of dis-
mounting afrightened rush and trample of men took
place ; they had thought me till now a Centaur !
The Mtongoli detailed to my service conducted
me to my Zeriba, built expressly for me on the
side of the hill, but a few paces from my halting-
place. Enclosed by a high palisade with an
interior wall, my hut in front of the interior gate
was of a form approaching a house with an open
front ; behind which and joined thereto was my
sleeping-chamber, a shed with door that con-
nected with other buildings occupied by my suite.
Fifty-eight days passed in travel between Gon-
dokoro and the Lake, delays included, with thirty-
one days of actual march : and 165 hours at
four kilometres the hour had been accomplished :
the five degrees of latitude separating Gondokoro
from Ugunda had been made, a distance of 660 kilo-
metres, by reason of the serpentine and difficult way.
Sick and fatigued I sought my hammock at an
early hour, and slept soundly despite the myriads
of mosquitoes that here rendered life almost insup-
portable ; and the incessant noise of drums and
horns that composed the royal band, that had come
by orders of the king to honour thus my presence.
CHAPTER IX.
Receive a Messenger from M'Tse — I set out and enter within
the Palace— Met by M'Tse — Interview with M'Tse seated
on his Throne — His Ministers make their reports — The
Kahotah seriously compromised, saved by my excuse — I
address the King in Arabic — Dreadful sacrifice of Thirty
victims in honour of my visit — Unjust imputations of
Livingstone on Speke — The interview finished, M'Tse
shows me his Hareem — I return to my Zeriba — Sufferings
from Cold and want of Fuel.
The morning of the 21st of June broke with a
cloudless sky; at eight o'clock the heat had
become excessive. A "marsalah" (messenger)
arrived to beg me, in the name of M'Tse, to visit
him at once. I immediately donned my uniform,
then similar to that worn by the officers of Les
Chasseurs d'Afrique, in France. The gold lace
and ornaments upon tunic and red pantaloosn, had
fortunately escaped injury from the rains and damp.
In this, in the language of our English friends,
I would be considered by the natives as a " howling
Swell," and would astonish the Court circle.
At the door stood my horse Ugunda, attended by
Selim, now become my interpreter; Said and
102 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Abd-el-Rahman, in red shirts and white pan-
taloons, the uniform of the " Forty Thieves."
At the entrance of the gate the Ugunda and
Egyptian flags had been planted in the ground,
whilst thousands struggled for a place to catch a
glimpse of the royal (!) guest of their great king.
Ba Beker was with me, within the tent, as my
aide and interpreter with the court. Followed
by them, my appearance as I mounted my horse
was greeted by shouts of enthusiasm, that were
re-echoed by the distant hills now covered with
human beings. At the head of this immense
cortege, preceded by banners and music, and the
Kongowee (General-in-Chief of the army), I
proceeded to the palace situated on the opposite
hill, in the centre of an amphitheatre formed by
seven high walls or palisades, through which
entrance is had by opposing gates to which cow-
bells are attached ; the interval of twenty yards
between the walls being occupied by huts of the
ministers and courtiers. Through these I made
my way followed only by a favoured few ; at each
gate an invisible hand rang wildly these bells,
and the detached gates slid from view, giving
entrance. Passing the seventh gate I found
myself in front of a large pyramid-shaped hut
supported by a corridor of columns within.
From within a man of majestic mien approached
the entrance; this was M'Tse. He appears
scarcely iliii'ty-five years of age ; certainly more
INTERVIEW WITH m'tSE. 103
than six feet high. ; his face is nervous but expres-
sive of intelligence. From his large restless eye,
a gleam of fierce brutality beams out that mars
an otherwise sympathetic expression ; his features
are regular, and complexion a light copper tint.
He is dressed in a long cloak, common in fashion
to that worn by the better class of Arab merchants.
The texture is of blue cloth, trimmed with gold ;
around his head, in graceful folds, is wound a
white turban; his waist encircled by a belt in
gold, richly wrought, from which is suspended a
Turkish scimitar ; his feet are encased in sandals
of Moorish pattern, procured from Zanzibar. He
advanced to meet me, with a graceful salutation,
as I dismounted from "Ugunda," to whom alter-
nately his eyes wandered with almost an expres-
sion of fear, that gave me the impression that he
regarded me as fresh from the Inferno.
The din and noise from horn and drum now
became deafening as, leaving Ugunda to Selim,
I passed within the open front of the palace, and
followed the king, who retrograded to his royal seat
at the end of the corridor. A chair, over which was
thrown a cloth wrought in gold, formed the royal
throne. Seated, M'Tse placed his feet upon a
pillow, near which was a beautifully polished
ivory tusk of milky whiteness, as if to say, " In
hoc signo regno.'^ When I had taken the seat as-
signed me by the king, a few moments of awkward
silence ensued, of which I profited by turning to
104 CENTRAL AFRICA.
take in the particulars of this strangest of
all receptions. At each pillar along the cor-
ridor leading from the door stood the execu-
tioners, of whom I have already spoken. The
fierce gleam of savagery that shone from their
eyes, now fastened upon me, caused me just one
little moment of uneasiness, as I turned to regard
the Mtongoli, that, dressed in white cotton (only
members of the court may dress in white), lined
each side of this apparent " Hall of Justice," a
large room whose sides and ceiling were covered
with a cotton cloth, and distinctly marked, as I
gazed upwards, " Wachusetts Mills ! " bought
at Zanzibar from the *' Meri-kani." M'Tse has sent
from time to time caravans of ivory to Zanzibar
in exchange for cottons, copper wire, and shells,
which represent now the money of the country.
But these expeditions have ceased.
To sit in presence of the king was an honour
never before accorded to mortal : it may not seem
strange then, that prostrate forms looked up at
me with something akin to that awe and fear that
hedged around M'Tse. As if to impress me with
his importance, (and not in vain), his ministers
were called in audience to render reports that
concerned their several missions. The " Kon-
gowee" (General-in-Chief), throwing himself
prone upon his face, cried aloud, with hands
clasped and raised alternately, " Yanzig ! yanzig !
yanzig ! " the common salutation of the Ugunda
KAHOTAH SERIOUSLY COMPEOMISED. 105
when addressing a superior. It was interpreted
to me, that he had successfully escorted me to the
palace, to the honour and dignity of the TJgunda
army. The second minister called was " Kahotah."
who had diplomatically declined the honour of
seeing me before M'Tse (court intrigue), and who
diplomatically also, had said nothing of his
failure to present me the twenty cows, which he
was charged to offer me. " Kahotah," however,
had not been a courtier long ; or he might have
known that envy and malice would soon divulge
to M'Tse his secret and treachery. Ba Beker
had long looked with jealous eye upon this head-
cook in cabinet and kitchen of M'Tse ; he there-
fore told M'Tse of the failure of "Kahotah"
to visit me, and of his appropriation of the cows.
The question became serious, and Kahotah came
near losing his head. Appealed to by M'Tse him-
self, I excused on account of my illness the non-
reception of Kahotah, who was therefore saved
a humiliating and disagreeable decapitation. An-
other minister was called, who had accompanied
Ba Beker, and had been violently ill en route. I
gave him the last dose of medicine I possessed,
and succeeded in relieving his pain. He recounted
to M'Tse my wonderful art as a medicine man; an
unfortunate reputation, since M'Tse never ceased
to worry me for medicine (dower) during my
stay in his kingdom ; in despite of my protestations
that I had none, and that I was ill myself.
106 CENTEAL AFKIOA.
Ba Beker was now asked as to myself, the
object of my mission, and what I tbouglit of M'Tse !
Ba Beker interpreted to him, though he understood
me perfectly. I spoke in Arabic, as follows : —
"0 M'Tse, great king of Africa, 1 have come
in the name of the great Sultan at Cairo to present
you his gracious salutations. The world has heard
of a great African king, and my August Sovereign
in sending me to him, wishes me thus to express
his kindly friendship and interest for one, for whom
he wishes only continued health and greatness."
This was received with expressions of delight,
and by M'Tse smilingly. "Kurungi! kurungi!"
"Good ! good !" resounded from all sides : whilst
they all rushed forward with wild gesticulation and
apparent menace, with neatly carved club-sticks,
they screamed and danced in a mimicry of hostile
attack against M'Tse, crying "Yanzig! yanzig !
yanzig!" which meant that they thanked M'Tse
for bringing so powerful a prince to Ugunda !
M'Tse suddenly rose from his seat; a slight
but significant contraction of the eye had
caused the disappearance of the "marsalah,"
who quick to do their master's will, snatched
from their turbans the plaited cord, and
seizing their unresisting victims, to the num-
ber of thirty, amid howls and fearful yells,
crowned in blood the signal honour of the white
man's visit to M'Tse. It required no common
effort for me to repress my feelings at this
a 5
IMPUTATIONS OP LIVINGSTONE ON SFEKE. 107
moment, or to assume the careless air that con-
cealed what was going on within : for all eyes were
watchiug me intently, and a sign of feeling would,
if nothing more serious, have subjected me to
ridicule and loss of prestige. Singular contra-
dictory combination in the negro, that cowardly
himself, he most admires coolness in others.
To protest would have been as useless on my
part as impolitic. This was a custom common to
all African potentates; a prerogative that went
with the claim to African greatness. A protest
from me would perhaps have consigned me to a
like fate : and though impracticable philanthropists
would have advised my throwing myself into the
" bloody chasm," I confess to a certain selfish
congratulation, that neither myself nor my soldiers
had been included in the sacrifice. Captain Speke
had recorded this propensity, in his voyage through
Ugunda. It has fallen to me to vindicate the me-
mory of this gallant voyager from the imputations
cast upon him by Dr. Livingstone : who, only a few
months before, from Lake Bageolowe had written
to Stanley: " I wish some one would visit M'Tse,
" or Ugunda, without Bombay as interpreter; he is
" by no means good authority. The King of Uaho-
" mey suffered eclipse after a common sense
" visitor, and we seldom hear any more of his atro-
" cities. The mightiest African potentate, and the
" most dreadfal cruelties told of Africa, owe a vast
" deal to the teller." As if to refute the apprecia-
108 CENTRAL AFRICA.
tion of the negro character, here strangely ennobled
bj the honoured Livingstone, Stanley was at that
moment reporting in the Ashantee Expedition the
" bloody facts" at Coomassie; the details of which
cause the very heart to sicken and recoil.
I cite these facts in the interest of truth alone,
yielding to none in the desire to ameliorate the
condition of the African. But in heaven's name,
let those whose province it is to be the pioneers in
the work, speak of him as he is, without regard to
those who attribute to him virtues and ideas, that,
if possessed, would render him no longer a subject
for our commiseration and sympathy.
The interview had now finished, and the drums
and horns were silent : the bloody deed had been
done, and sickened and oppressed I arose to go.
M'Tse followed me to the door, where I was met
by the anxious faces of my soldiers Sai'd, Abd-el-
Rahman, and Selim, who accompanied me at the
bidding of M'Tse to a garden on the left in order
that he might show me his hareem, more than
100 very pretty women, clothed in the same simple
and tasteful garment common to both sexes. They
surrounded me, examined carefully the gilt trim-
mings of my uniform, and laughed in astonish-
ment at my hair, as I lifted my tarbouche from my
heated head. When no longer seated upon his
throne M'Tse is very gay, and laughs with a
freedom that soon convinced me we should be
great friends. We strolled through the numerous
THE HAREEM OF m'tSE. 109
nicely constructed liuts, shaded by the ubiquitous
banana trees, followed by the whole of his hareem,
by whom he is greatly beloved ; as indeed he is by
the whole people, who, as time wore on I found
to be, as a general rule, a lying, miserable set, who,
although certain of being put to death, would
sometimes defy his authority. During the walk
he had brought to me a pretty boy of about twelve
years of age, perfectly white. I did not for the
moment, thus taken unawares, think of the Albinos
that have been heretofore recorded as indigenous
among some African people ; and consequently I
looked very much surprised. No less so did the
boy, who looked in wonder and seemed pleased to
meet with one whose colour approached his own.
His hair was rather the crisp wool of the negro
but perfectly white ; his eyes were blue ; his skin
of a delicate white tint. M'Tse offered to give
him to me, but I refused to take him at the mo-
ment, and forgot to do so at the time of my de-
parture from Ugunda.
From this hill the road winds around its base,
three hours to Murchison Creek, over a beautiful
and picturesque country of banana groves ; in the
distance a small creek may be seen, like a silver
stream winding through the country northward,
here called " Bahr Rionga." The sun was now sink-
ing behind the mountains, as, conducted to the gate,
having made the detour of his garden, I mounted
my horse to ride away. He seemed greatly de-
110 CENTRAL AFRICA.
lighted at tlie sight, and begged me to show him
how fast he could go. Nothing loth to quit his
presence, I gave the reins to " Ugunda," and
quickly regained the open road, followed by my
suite, who arrived soon after at the Zeriba, anxious
to exchange impressions at the unexpected cha-
racter of the reception with which, we had b^en
honoured. Ba Beker declared that, next to M'Tse,
I was considered the greatest man in Ugunda.
Strange to say, my audience were of one accord as
to the greatness of the " Sultan Kam M'Tse," as
they called him ; whilst the execution was referred
to only in its detail.
The conversation was interrupted by the arrival
of presents from the king ; very timely, for I had
absolutely nothing to give my men. There w,ere
fifty-six bundles of bananas, twenty earthen jars,
three packets of large sugar-cane, two packets of
salt, twenty goats, and fifty cows. The latter
were a very fine stock, and resembled in appear-
ance the Durham short-horn of England ; whilst
among them were also very long-horned, large,
and beautifully-shaped beasts ; and my Zeriba soon
resembled a well-stocked farm -yard.
In my suite Ba Beker had, unknown to me,
brought from the post at Foueira ten Dongolowee,
whom he proposed to present as the body-guard
of M'Tse. Ba Beker established himself with
these men in my Zeriba, until their drunken orgies
became so insupportable, that, pistol in hand, I
COLD AND SCAKCITY OF FUEL. Ill
drove the whole of them out, and was no longer
annoyed by them.
On each side of my hut was that of Kellerman
and Adam ; Uganda and Selim occupied another :
whilst Said and Abd-el-Rahman were assigned one
very near my door. The front room was very
nicely built, and served me for a divan. The
nights were very cold and wet, and ill almost
incessantly, I was obliged to keep a fire burning
at night, kept alive either by Said or Abd-el by
turns. Wood is very scarce in Uganda, and my
ten men given me by Rionga proved invaluable in
searching for it ; otherwise we should have suffered
severely from cold. My tent served to close the
wide portal by hanging it across : whilst my ham-
mock swung across the wide room, in the centre
of which a fire was kept constantly burning.
How often memory reverts to this scene, when
lying ill and helpless, hope of ever returning to
Gondokoro seemed like some wild dream.
CHAPTER X.
Presents for M'Tse — He is delighted with the Electric Battery
— My desire to visit the Lake granted, but my return by
the River refused — His dread of Keba Rega — Human
Sacrifices — Illness of myself and Staff — The Ugunda
language — Ibn Batutah — The Negro race — M'Tse's Arab
MS. — Invited to the Palace — Anxieties of my Staff on my
proposal to return by the River — I suffer from Delirium
— Ba Beker becomes my bitter enemy — Ugunda : features
of the country; its products; its industry, trade, &c. —
Its Government, arms, population — Its Salutations — On
slightly recovering I am invited to the Palace — On my
arrival another Sacrifice takes place, the price of his
granting my request — Apprehensions of Said and Abd-el
— At M'Tse's request I put them through the Manual
Exercise — I take leave of M'Tse and prepare to start for
the Lake Victoria Nyanza — Delayed by Illness — News of
Lieutenant Cameron.
The etiquette of Court in Ugunda prescribes that
presents should always follow a visit, but mucli
haste in such matters is considered decidedly
vulgar. An exception to this rule was made for
the vulgar class who daily sent in their offerings
of all kinds to M'Tse.
This morning then had been chosen by Ba
Beker for presentation of my " salaam-alak " to
PKESENTS FOn m'tSE. 113
M'Tse, wlio had already sent his brother, as well
as Ide his dragoman, to find out the nature of my
presents. At eight o'clock a " marsalah " arrived
to announce that M' Tse was awaiting my visit. Ba
Beker, as master of the ceremonies, took charge of
the boxes, and we started. Much the same scene
took place as on the day before, proceeding in uni-
form and on horseback, my soldiers preceding me.
Certainly not less than five thousand people blocked
the road, and blackened the hill-tops. Arrived
at the palace, M'Tse arose from his throne, and
smilingly beckoned me in. Resuming his seat he
motioned me to the chair occupied by me the pre-
vious day. A council was now in session here,
giving a semblance of order and government ; so
that the assembly in the hut gave the impression
of a Cabinet Council.
M'Tse was dressed to-day in a violet-coloured
silk, embroidered with gold and wore a new
Egyptian tarbouche (fez) that he had evidently
procured from Ba Beker.
Several large cases contained the gifts to be
presented. These were brought, and Ba Beker
was ordered to lay them one by one at the feet of
the " Sultan." Bleached cotton cloths, red Turkey
and tarbouches were highly prized ; for the white
cotton is alone worn by the members of the Court.
Calicoes, and an immense lot of beads, necklaces,
rings, and bracelets (known as " Sue Sue "), were
received with outbursts of admiration. A mass
114 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
of other articles, that I do not remember, were
added. A large mirror, with gilt frame, was an
object of great curiosity. A music-box tliat had
served to beguile my weary hours at night, when
on the road it played " Tramp, tramp, tramp, the
boys are marching," " Dixie," and " Johnny comes
marching home " (in a fearfully inebriated state, if
one might judge from the stops and uncertain
notes), and other airs, was an old friend, from
whom I parted with regret. I added a magnifi-
cent gun (Reilly, No. 8 Elephant), with cartridges
of explosive ball. M'Tse was highly delighted with
this, and naively said, " Surely you are a great
man to make me a present of a gun like this.
Can't you kill Keba Rega for me?" This was
his constant theme, owing to a traditional jealousy
that existed between the Kings of Unyoro and
Ugunda; and now on the part of M'Tse a desire
to make war upon Keba Rega, which was only
checked by the fact that the " Uuyori " were a
very warlike people, and he was afraid of them.
The greatest impression made upon him and his
courtiers, over all other of the gifts presented
him was the little electric battery — "my little
Lubari," that in the early stages of my journey
from Kissembois I numbered as one of my five
companions. For four hours I tried its effect
upon them, amid the most boisterous " wah !
wahs!" of astonishment and delight. M'Tse at
length deigned to try its electric current, and,
PERMISSION TO VISIT THE LAKE. 115
when recovered from the shock, gazed at it with
an expression of awe mingled with delight.
When I rose to go I saw how "Liibari" had
aided me ; for M'Tse said to me, " You are my
brother ! anything that you may want to do here
you have only to ask me." In subsequent inter-
views, that were of almost daily occurrence (if
I were not too ill), I broached to him my desire to
visit the Lake Victoria, and cross to its eastern
shore, explore it, and pass thus from the river to
Gondokoro. The proposal was received with every
mark of disapprobation by the ministers. They
said, " The white man is he a fool that he speaks
of travelling on the river ? * Speeky ' (Captain
Speke) tried to do so and could not; and what
will he do against the people of Keba Eega ? "
I was not disheartened at this, for I expected
opposition ; besides a strange superstition existed
among these people, that the opposite side of the
Lake Victoria was inhabited by " Afrites " (devils),
beings who exercised a guardianship over these
waters, and had frequently caught and killed many
of the people of Ugunda. Again and again I
referred to the subject; subsequently delivering
him a long lecture on the opening of the river for
navigation and for the exportation of his ivory.
By means of descriptions of houses, palaces, and
carriages, finally aided by rude sketches, I con-
veyed to him, what was at first unintelligible;
for he could not comprehend a small sketch, but
116 CENTRAL AFRICA.
invariably inverted it. At last I made him un-
derstand ; describing other princes, not so great
or powerful as he, who lived in houses, and had
carriages, and were surrounded with luxury and
comfort : " whilst you, M'Tse, with all your ivory,
are little better off than the poorest of your people ;
for, like them, you have nothing that goes to
make up the life of the great King you are." He
finally consented that I should visit the Lake,
but my return by the river was flatly refused.
" No," said he, " you must not go, you will be
killed ; the river does not go, as you think, to
Mrooli: it goes away to the eastward. You
will be lost and die of hunger, or be killed, and
then your Sultan will come and kill me."
I confess that this reply rather cooled my
ardour for the moment. -What if the river
went eastwards and not to Mrooli? My death
might certainly be the consequence, from either
of the causes he assigned. But I held fast to my
resolve, and in a subsequent interview I said
to him, " You refuse then to permit me to
return ; if so I will stay here and die, and what
will be the consequence? Your enemy, Keba
Rega, will send word that you have caused my
death ; and the steamers and boats that would
otherwise come to bring you articles of luxury,
materials to build your houses, and make you a
great king, will all be given to Keba Rega : who,
becoming powerful, will some day come and fight
ILLNESS OF MYSELF AND STAFF. 117
you, and perhaps conquer your country." I
rested my case upon this, for I saw that I had
touched the vital spot (his jealousy and hatred of
Keba Rega) whilst his mind, inflamed with a
desire to be great in the sense I had represented,
I doubted not would cause him to accede to
my demand. I did not see him again for several
days, for I was quite ill, prostrated completely
with fever and a distressing diarrhoea. M'Tse,
fearful of my dying on his hands, and dreading
the consequences, sent incessantly to know my
condition.
On the night of the 23rd, there being no rain,
I secretly arranged to send up some rockets and
fireworks I had brought with me, reserving several
for the river navigation ; for I had resolved at all
hazards to return that way.
At a given signal the rockets were sent up, and
the greatest consternation and alarm prevailed.
I had however arranged that M'Tse should be kept
but a moment in doubt. The fearful scramble at
the palace (the fright was reported to me as really
terrible), was succeeded however by a corre-
sponding expression of delight.
My visits were now less frequent at the palace,
for I was seriously ill ; and besides, almost every
visit was attended by a human sacrifice : and my
soul sickened at this kind of honour !
The 24th and 25th I was seriously ill, and con-
fined to the hut. I was so weak as to be scarcely
118 CENTRAL AFRICA.
able to walk : wliilst my flesli was nearly trans-
parent : and my once muscular legs and arms were
mere skin and bone. Unfortunately I was
without proper medicine, and chewed leaves in
the vain hope to find them astringent or tonic.
Kellerman and Adam were now likewise on their
backs, and absolutely cried like children. Keller-
man said to me, " I am utterly without hope of
ever returning," and gave up to despair. I never
could induce him to go to the palace : though
M'Tse frequently asked for him. I was half
inclined to believe that Kellerman never doubted
but that one day I too would be sacrificed : as he
was always very anxious about my return, when-
ever absent at the palace.
During all this time I had received a great
many visits, and reserved some presents (secretly
given) for those visitors. I endeavoured to trace,
by patient questioning, some tradition, that might
give a show of reason to the origin ascribed to them.
Here, as elsewhere, I failed to discover it. The
customs of one king, as of one Sheik, are lost in
the egotism and vanity of his successor. Per-
sonal rule, especially among savages, ever has
this disadvantage, the successor obliterating all
traces of his predecessor — hence even tradition
ceases. In my navigation and exploration of
the river Juba, on the eastern coast of Africa,
half a degree below the Equator, I found nume-
rous tribes speaking languages in which, on com-
IBN BATDTAH. 119
paring a small vocabulary of words, tliere was an
evident correspondence with the language of the
Ugundi. Thus " Mezi " (water), in this language
is the identical word in the language of
"M'yooah," who, like the Ugunda, prefix M' —
M'Ugunda, to designate the "country of;"
"Bosi" (a goat), is "Unbosi" in Ugunda;
" Koko " (chicken), the same, and many
other words are synonymous.
Central Africa, subsequent to the flow of the
Moslem invasions on its eastern coast, had been
invaded doubtless by the Arab nomad, kindred
spirit to that noted Arab traveller, Ibn Batutah,
imbued with a desire to discover its mysteries, or
actuated by the greed of gain to collect its gold,
its ivory, and its slaves. Whilst bearing with
him the banner of Mahomet, he implanted in his
march among the negroes the first idea of a
divinity, scarcely definable to-day; and by amal-
gamation, operating a change in the colour, and
the typical characteristics of the negro of Central
Africa. For although the woolly hair is still
there, the nose and mouth have in these re-
Sfions lost — the former its flatness, and the latter
its thickness — whilst the tint of the Ugunda is of
dark copper colour. Among these people how-
ever, I have noticed that there are many of the
real negro type in colour, hair, &c., showing
thus perhaps the original type of the natives of
the country prior to amalgamation.
120 CENTEAL AFEICA.
Later, in an expedition to tlie Makraka Niam,
on the confines of the Monbutto country, I
remarked that the tribes on the river Yeh — the
MundOj Muro, Abaker, Kiyeh, and others — though
speaking different languages, bore a striking
resemblance in colour, hair, habits, dress, and
music with the people o£ Ugunda, showing thus
an original unity of race in the negro. The
traditions so often accredited to the negro, so far
as my experience goes, have no other foundation
than in his vanity or his caprice. M'Tse, when
asked as to his origin, replied by pointing proudly
to the Albino boy: to be considered as of the
white race being a great point in his ambition,
remarked among other negroes as well. In pro-
bable connexion with the theory here advanced I
have to cite that, during an interview, when I had
given him a gilt and Turkey-red bound volume of
Burton's " Travels," he produced a voluminous
Arab manuscript, worn and discoloured by age,
" that I might bind it, and make it like the book I
had given him." Fearing a loss of prestige if I
attempted it, I endeavoured to make him under-
stand that I was not a bookbinder : that work of
that nature required special labour, &c. ; all to no
effect however. I took the book, and with the
aid of Kellerman succeeded in making a plain
cover of paper; using as paste a mucilage made
of the flour of the banana. This book was highly
reverenced, and had been given him by the late
INVITED TO THE PALACE. 121
King Sima, bis father. How it had. readied
Ugunda he could not say ; but Ide, bis dragoman
and instructor in Arabic, told me that it was of
such ancient date, and the writing so different
from his Arabic, that he could decipher but a few
words here and there. This served to strengthen
my conviction, that the Arabs referred to above,
coming from the east coast, without doubt had
brought this manuscript with them : the preserva-
tion of which, however, was as unique as strange
in the history of a race which ever strives to
forget and obliterate the past, rather than retain
records of it.
June 2Qtli. — Though ill and suffering, and sup-
ported by my two soldiers, I responded to the
pressing invitation of M'Tse to go to the palace.
He said to me, " Mbguru, come and see my women ;
they are 'kurungi' (good)." He dragged me
after him, and seemed delighted to present me to
his wives, that thronged around me, no longer
abashed as on the first visit ; and this familiarity
encouraged by me at length went so far as to be
checked abruptly by M'Tse, who said, "Let us
leave them now, as they will annoy you." This
was said whilst I fancied that a shadow of jealousy
flitted across his face, and with a flash of the eye,
that told me he would in no way consent to play
the role of a " mari sage," like Offenbach's good
king Menelaus.
Whilst walking among the banana groves I
K
122 CENTRAL AFRICA.
again toucTied upon the subject of his permitting
me to explore the opposite shore of the lake, and
to return bj the river. In imagination I drew
for him houses of wood and brick that would
replace the grass-huts of his people : and how
his army, now consisting of twenty or thirty men,
armed with old firelocks, would all have beautiful
guns and uniforms like those of my soldiers, Sai'd
and Abd-el : and he himself a carriage and a horse,
to carry him in state as a king. I would have
desisted had I known the price of the impression
I had made upon his exalted imagination : for he
now resolved, despite the opposition of his mi-
nisters, to accede to my demand. These men
hated me intensely, as Selim reported me their
conversation, and had instructed him to tell me
the most horrible stories of cruelties practised by
the people on the river. Selim exaggerated, with-
out doubt, these stories, for both he and Keller-
man regarded me as mad, in persisting in what
they thought must lead to certain death. Said
and Abd-el-Rahman shared in these feelings I
could easily see, but they did not say so in the
conversations I had with them : for they were my
constant companions, and almost my every thought
found expression to them in the long nights, when
the rain and storm howled without, and when
we were obliored to huddle close around the fire in
my hut. The wood burned badly, for it was wet
and soggy, and gave out little heat. Kellerman
I SUFFER FROM DELIRIUM. 123
and Adam were always in their huts, wrapped in
their blankets ; while Selim and his numerous
wives had the same hut with " Ugunda," who
was again becoming sleek and fat upon Ugunda
grass, and his now almost habitual regime of large
golden bananas or plantains. Selim told me that
he occasionally gave him " merissa " to drink : and
that the Ugunda, who daily came in great crowds to
look at him, regarded him with awe and fear,
encouraged by the wily Selim, who told them fa-
bulous stories of what " Ugunda " said about them,
naively remarking that his chief complaint was
that the natives did not give him enough merissa
— an intoxicating drink of which Selim was him-
self over-fond.
On the 29th the constant fever and dysentery
of the past few days had now merged into de-
lirium. Attended alone by Sai'd, for Abd-el-
Rahman, in common with all, save Said and
Selim, was suffering fearfully from fever, I cried
incessantly for ice and snow. " Tortoni's " at
Paris became the one sole cry, the North Pole of
my fever-racked brain. When its fury was spent
I was so weak and emaciated, that I heard my
men more than once discussing what they should
do in the event of my death ; and consternation
was written on their features, as they were brought
to consider the impossibility of their return ; the
more so since Ba Beker had rendered himself an
object of hatred and suspicion to all, and who
124 CENTRAL AFRICA.
would doubtless, should anything happen to me,
revenge himself upon them.
Adam, my cook, as if roused to action by the
consciousness of what threatened him, in common
with the rest, came to me and told me that Ba
Beker, to whom he had applied to kill an ox to
make me soup, had absolutely refused to do so ;
stating that the cattle sent me, now numbering
sixty heads of splendid beasts, were all his. I
sent for him, and in my anger I denounced him as
iin ingrate scoundrel; to which he only bent his
head in submission, astonished that there was
still enough vitality in me to make a scene.
From this moment Ba Beker became my bitter
enemy ; secretly he conspired against me, and
caused me all the subsequent trouble on the
road to Urondogani detailed hereafter^ Though
he used every art to convince M'Tse that I
was in Ugunda for the purpose of dispossessing
him, M'Tse remained faithful to his pledged
friendship to me; otherwise I could never have
left Ugunda alive.
From this day till the 6th of July I was unable
to move from my hammock, guarded by my
faithful and devoted soldiers. In the interval, as
in mockery, M'Ts^ sent frequently to me, asking
for "dower" (medicine), for which all Africans
have a strange infatuation, declaring that he had
stomach-ache, and buzzing in his ears, and sore
eyes : all of which Ide, who knows that I have no
UGUNDA ITS PEODUCTS. 125
medicine, tells me is false. Instead of Sir Samuel
Baker's idea of the regeneration of tlie negro, by
" a man in full highland dress and bagpipes, who
would set all psalms to lively tunes, and the
negroes would learn to sing them immediately;"
it would work better to send an apothecary
well stocked with drugs. Sir Samuel, however,
in giving this idea as to success of bag-pipes,
may have been actuated by a desire to transfer
those doubtfully melodious instruments to a field
of more usefulness and appreciation !
I had been here now sufficiently long to form an
idea of the country, its people, and its products.
The country is rolling and picturesque; its
groves of banana trees, that everywhere abound,
adorn the verdant landscape on hill and dale. But
nothing — absolutely nothing — of that grand and
magnificent spectacle depicted by the pens of more
enthusiastic travellers, who would make, to willing
readers, a Paradise of Africa, which in reality
is, and must ever be a grave-yard to Europeans.
The soil is richly impregnated with iron, rock
crystal, and granite. The principal tree in
Ugunda is the wild fig, from whose bark a
cloth is manufactured by incessant pounding.
Exposed to the air it assumes a light-brown
colour, when the different pieces are sewn to-
gether. The products are Indian corn, sweet
potatoes, sugar-cane of a superior quality. To-
bacco, resembling the famous " perique " of
126 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Louisiana, is grown in large quantities ; and could
be made a valuable article of export on account
of its delicious flavour.
There are no fruits except tlie banana and
plantain, wbich. grow wild and in greatest luxuri-
ance. The tree is very large, and the watery
matter contained in the stock serves the Ugunda
for water, when he cannot procure it elsewhere.
The banana is scarcely ever eaten in a ripe state,
save by the females, who extract from it an
unfermented and delicious liquor. Gourds of
bottle-shape are strung around their necks, from
which, from time to time, they drink The banana,
the principal article of food, is prepared either
by roasting or by a sweating process already de-
scribed. " Merissa " (fermented liquor, whether
of banana or dourah) is the drink of the male, and
a source of much intemperance. The cattle of
the country equal the choice breeds of England :
they do not however form a part of the diet of the
people. Sheep and goat's flesh is almost the only
animal food that is eaten.
The industry of the country consists in the
tanning of skins of animals, in which a favourable
comparison may be made with that of Europe.
The cultivation of the soil is by the women, and
only sufficient to support life. The men occupy
themselves with the elephant chase, for ivory,
which they do in the manner hereafter described as
practised by the people west of the Bahr-el-Abiad.
TJGUNDA ITS GOVERNMENT. 127
The animal kingdom comprises almost all the
beasts common to Africa : elephant, lion, giraffe,
leopard, wild cat, hippopotamus, and crocodile ;
the zebra is said to be found here, but in vain I
essayed to procure one.
It is in the tanning of skins that they are
especially skilled, vying in finish with specimens
of European work.
Sugar-cane is considered a great luxury, and
very often one sees the Ugunda passing, chewing
the end of a long cane that trails behind him.
European goods, copper, and shells constitute
the money of the country, in exchange for ivory
or cattle.
They are very skilful workers in iron, and their
lances are very nicely finished.
The cloth, referred to above, from the bark of
tree, is not so thick as that manufactured by the
Makraka Niam-Niam, but the same in every other
respect. Their music horns are composed of ele-
phant tusks. Their drums are very large, and
their hoarse sounds, accompanied by cawing in
imitation of the crow, are anything but agreeable.
M'Tse has a form of government unique, per-
haps, among all African potentates. There is
division of labour, and a distribution of the service
of state among chiefs, whose appellation of Mton-
ofoli, with their attributes, entitle them to rank as
Ministers of State and Members of Cabinet. These
ofiicials come next in rank to the " Kahotah," who
128 CENTEAL AFRICA.
takes precedence with "Kongowee," Generalissimo
of the army. This important personage is at the
head of all the natives, who are at all times armed
with the lance ; a few only being armed with
muskets (flint-locks), and these are generally
detailed for service in the immediate vicinity
of the king. Many of these men had lost their
flints, and came to me as a great favour to
beg them. I had none, of course : but to their
utter bewilderment I picked them up from their
own earth ; a precious discovery to them, since
the very few they possessed had been procured
with the guns at Zanzibar.
The population ofUgunda proper, I esteemed
at 500,000, whilst a number of Sheiks of adjacent
tribes, whose numbers are unknown, are tributary.
Their huts are built of jungle-grass, the walls of
which are of sugar-cane. The interior is divided
into compartments, and kept very clean.
The salutation of the Ugunda is very peculiar.
As two persons meet the word "Ouangah !" is re-
sponded to by " Oh hi !" which continues from an
elevated voice to a lower tone until it becomes
scarcely audible ; then, and not till then, does the
conversation commence. The word " Agambe ! " is
frequently used in conversation, and corresponds
to "Do you listen?" To superiors the salu-
tation is different; the prostrate form is then
elevated to squatting on the haunches with legs
under the body, the hands extended flat upon the
INVITED TO THE PALACE. 129
ground, as an expression of humility or of thanks,
the hands clasped, are raised in quick succession,
whilst the word "Yanzig! yanzig ! yanzig!" is
constantly repeated.
On the 6th of July I had suflB.ciently recovered
to respond to the pressing invitation of the king
to go to the palace. M'Ts^ had never yet conde-
scended to visit me ; it would have been a want
of dignity that even the TJgunda, passionately
devoted to him, would doubtless have resented.
M'Tse was for them the sole King of Africa, and
was the constant theme of their conversations.
He could and did send them to be decapitated, but
this was his privilege alone, and they were content,
nay happy, that the Mtongoli had no other au-
thority over them than the cutting off of their ears;
the Mtongoli himself often sharing the same fate
as the mass. "What secret of government M'Tse
possessed to govern these people so rudely, and yet
be beloved by them, was an enigma to me. To
return to the palace then where I saw assembled
on that morning a great mass of men : — in front
of the palace door sat seven men in the posture
above described.
Drums and horns were making the usual din,
whilst the throng without was dense. Within sat
along the wall the Mtongoli : and at their accus-
tomed posts, along the corridors, the fiery-eyed and
fiendish looking executioners ; their fantastic uni-.
form in brilliant contrast to the neat white shirt of
130 CENTEAL ArmoA.
the Mtongoli. M'Tse sat on his royal chair, a
questioner of and listener to , the men crouched at
the door.
Motioned to niy accustomed seat by M'Ts^, I
leaned feebly against the po^t, weak and faint.
Unable to comprehend the conversation, my eyes
"wandered over this strange assembly, and gra-
dually losing myself in reflection I thought of the
world beyond, shut out from me by thousands
of miles of weary, deadly travel. Distant from
Gondokoro even more than 600 miles, I felt
myself succumbing to disease that now had me
completely in its grasp, I no longer dared hope
of return ; and a feeling stole over me that my
persistence with M'Tse to permit me to return by
the river was useless. Despair was taking the
place of the energy and hope that till now had
kept me alive. I had reached that point, where
the pain of freezing limbs gives place to the
fatal happy slumber, half waking half conscious,
the precursor of death !
A crash of horns and sound of drums broke
upon my ears and awakened me, startled from my
reveries — the seven men had disappeared, and the
cries without too truly told me that the execu-
tioners, no longer in their place, were plying their
deadly office. My last conversation had resulted in
determining M'Tse to grant my request ; this was
tiTC bloody price paid that the world might know
something of this mysterious region. I have said
ANOTHER HUMAN SACEIFICE. 131
here before that they believed demons, " Afrites,"
guarded with jealous care the opposite side of the
lake, and the river Victoria Nile running there-
from north. M'Tse in consenting to my going
there, had caught several of these evil guardians ;
with what result the executions made apparent.
I felt for a moment as if fixed to the spot, and my
anxious look of inquiry caused M'Tse to speak
thus : — " 0 Mbuguru, thou hast asked to go and
visit regions inaccessible to men ; that thou
mightest do so I have killed these men, otherwise
they would have killed you. It hurts my heart
(" batn," belly, is always used by Africans
instead of heart), to kill these Af rites, but they
have already don-e my people great injury."
M'Tse had doubtless heard that I condemned
the practice : and I had told him myself that
a Great King in the outer world never committed
such acts toprove His greatness : hence his apology.
Though I felt elated at the permission of visiting
the Lake,there came a shadow of regret as I thought
of the now mangled bodies without, and my in-
direct complicity in their death.
Immediately after a number of warriors rushed
in, headed by the " Kongo wee," who made a sham
attack, vociferating, gesticulating, and brandish-
ing their clubs, and throwing themselves at the
feet of M'Tse; a ceremony which meant to testify
their approbation of the act : saying at the same
time, "You are the Great M'Tse, and we are
132 CENTRAL APKICA.
your servants." SaYd and Abd-el stood at the
door and witnessed the executions; M'Tse beckoned
them to approach, which they did with somewhat
doubtful step. I saw that for the moment a
suspicion, that a hke "fantasiah" might be in
store for us all, was quickly flashing through the
minds of the two soldiers, who advanced directly
towards me. I felt greatly relieved when this
strange capricious king begged me to cause them
" to play soldier ; " as he wanted me to organize
and drill his army ; telling me that he would give
me any quantity of ivory ; and make me a king.
The first proposition I accepted, the other I
refused, telling him that I wished him to send his
ivory over the road I should open to commerce by
the river. Said and Abd-el went through the
manual of arms, the facings and firings, to his
great delight, and amid cries of the Mtongoli of
"Kurungi! Kurungi! " (good). Soon after I begged
his permission to retire. He arose and accom-
panied me to the door, looking in wonder at my
horse. As I mounted and rode away he said,
"Mbuguru, you will not forget to give me a
carriage and a horse." I said, "Yes, M'Ts^,
anything you may ask." Like all Africans he
was a great beggar, and was never appeased.
^ His Highness the Khedive sent a carriage for M'Tse, and
M, Linant expected to take it to him. It was ordered
to be sent long l>efore M. Linant or Stanley had reached
M'Ts^.
TAKE LEAVE OF m'tSE. 133
On the 9tlil went to the palace to make my adieu.
T was received with great ceremony, and M'Tse
was arrayed in a white robe for the first time. I
thanked him in a fe^ words for his great kindness
to me, and assured him that the world should
hear more of him, as indeed I found him to be a
great African King. I hoped that he would soon
profit by my visit, and that ere long a steamer
would be on the river ; when he might go without
fatigue, and see himself the scenes which I had
heretofore detailed to him of a world unseen. He
begged me to stay and build him a house and
carriage, and in fact made every effort to cause
me to remain. He had already sent me an escort
and porters for my luggage, and I had arranged
that Kellerman and Adam should go direct to
Urondogani with baggage and porters, and await
me there : until my passage across the Lake
to the eastern shore ; then to turn northward,
to reach Urondogani by the river ; a design
which was frustrated, as will hereafter appear.
I left M'Tse, and the court, where I had been
nearly a month. They all crowded around me,
and M'Tse warmly pressed my hand, telling me,
" I love you, Mbuguru, you are my brother : you
will find boats for you at Urondogani ; let me
know if you have any trouble." I turned my back
on the capital, accompanied by my two soldiers
and Sais, and a numerous escort of honour. As
the column wound round the hill on which was
134 CENTEAL AFKICA.
situated the palace, tlie hareem came peering
through the enclosure, to wave me adieu. I had
only commenced the march when a furious storm
broke over our heads, sending the guard for
shelter in every direction. I was finally obliged to
return. For several days the storm continued
with unabated fury ; and during this time I was
again seized with a most violent fever, as the tem-
perature became cold, and the dampness obliged
us all to hover around our at all times miserable
fire.
The interval of my delay was unmarked by any
incident : except that M'Tse, who was immediately
informed of my return, sent one night to ask that
Selim might be allowed to remain, as he wished to
send him to bring a white man then at Ujiji. The
Ugunda go frequently to that place, making the
journey in ten days. I supposed the white man
to be Lieutenant Cameron, as it afterwards proved
to be. Of course I could not accede to this
request, under the circumstances.
On the 12th I went to pay another visit to the
king, to repeat my thanks and kindly appreciation
of the services he had and would render me. On
returning to my " Zeriba," I found a quantity of
cow, leopard, and rat skins most beautifully tanned
and sewed together, making large sheets. There
were ten large ivory tusks, and many other
articles of jewelry, necklaces and bracelets made
of ivory, and ten large bolts of native cloth.
PREPARATIONS TO START. 135
The transportation througli Unyoro of the ivory
and cloth and many other articles that I was
obliged to leave (and which I received several
months afterwards by the route of Unyoro), cost
him in slain forty of his men. This is cited here
to show the good faith of M'Tse, in his promise
to me to throw his ivory in the market, by sending
it to Gondokoro : or at least to Foueira, near by, if
the river, heretofore unknown, proved to be the
same as at Foueira, and navigable, the point on
which I insisted and was about to test.
CHAPTER XT.
Start for the Lake Victoria Nyanza — Mnrchison Creek — De-
scription of the boats — Land for the Night — Nogarah —
Tlie Fleet — Waters of the Lake — Soundings — Islands in
the Lake — M'Tse gives secret instructions not to cross
the Lake — I reluctantly return to Murchison Creek — Dis-
cover Selim — Attacked with fever — Baulked by Ba Beker
— I make preparations to depart for Foueira.
On the morning of the 14th, though misty, cold,
and disagreeable, I started for the Lake Victoria
Nyanza, accompanied by Said and Abd-el-Rahman,
and Selim as Sa'is. Kellerman and Adam were
to go on the following morning direct to TJron-
dogani ; where I proposed to join them, coming
from the lake. I hoped at least to explore it as
far as its eastern shore.
The road winds through banana groves, climbs
steep hills or plunges into umbrageous forests.
A three hours' march brought us to a little bayou
at the head of the lake — the Murchison Creek of
Speke.
From the top of the hill that overlooks Murchi-
son Creek, the Lake Victoria beyond lies with its
THE UGUNDi FLEET. 137
tranquil and limpid waters like a silver sheen ; re-
fracting a flood of light, glistening in a mid-day's
sun. The shores of the creek are bordered with
huge trees, whose overhanging branches cast
their shadows far out upon the mirrored surface ;
whilst its transparent waters reflected the now
cloud-specked sky.
We found several huts near the water's edge
that gave us shelter. The Mtongoli, charged with
my navigation of the lake, after a long parley
assembled fifteen boats ; promising on the morrow
as many more. The Mtongoli insisted that my
proposed journey was impossible. He said to
me, " It will take you thirty days to cross to the
other side, and beside I will not go." I determined
however, to risk it : and persuade, if possible, the
men to accompany me. I accordingly told Selim
to await me with the horse four days ; and if at
the end of that time I did not return, to go back
to M'Tse, and thence make his way to Urondogani
and there await me with the others. Selim knew
that my project was useless, and that the Ugundi
would not accompany me.
At five o'clock, accompanied by Said and Abd-
el-Rahman, I embarked in the boats, that deserve
description. Composed of thick bark, sewed
together with rope made of banana-tree, they vary
from thirty to forty feet in length, having at the
prow the antlers of a "tetel" or deer; propelled
by thirty or even forty rowers, two by two.
138 CENTEAL AFEICA.
the speed attained is wonderful : whilst the effect
is that of a strange phantom sea-monster, as it
glides noiselessly over the even surface of the lake.
The Mtongoli (who proved to be the admiral of
the Lake naval force) conducted us several hours
of rowing to a point on the eastern shore of the
creek near the lake, where we were to spend the
night ; and early on the morrow to get out upon
the lake, when I hoped to cross it. Our camp
was npon a high bluff, where not far away there
were several huts, that we were to occupy for the
night. A cheerful fire soon made, the Sheik of
the place brought us a " koko " (chicken), of vrhich,
aided by Said, I made a broth. Tired and worn out
by the fatigue of the day, we wrapped ourselves in
blankets, and around the fire fell into a sound
sleep such as I had not enjoyed for many long
days. A strange restlessness pursued me always at
night ; and the only sleep I could get, was generally
after a long day's march, immediately after bivouac.
The morning of the 15th, dawned bright and
clear. The sound of " Nogarah," drum and horn,
awoke me just as the sun appeared : out upon the
creek a fleet of boats came " neck and neck," with
their "tetel" -headed prows, to the number of forty,
with thirty oars in each : to say nothing of
drummers and musicians, making 1200 men that
had been detailed to escort me. The discordant
din broke over the unrufEed surface of the water,
re-echoed again and again by the surrounding hills.
LAKE VIOTOEIA NYANZA. 139
" Childe Harold at a little distance stood,
And view'd, but not displeased, the revelry
Nor hated harpaless mirth, however rude ;
lu sooth, it Avas no vulgar sight to see
Their barbarous, yet their not indecent glee."
For the first time I felt sometliing akin to
enthusiasm, as I looked down from my seat on
the overhanging bank. The grey mists of morn-
ing were being tinged with a golden light as the
sun struggled to appear, — the creek with its
dark fringe of trees and banana groves, lent a
beauty to the scene that one sees seldom in
Central Africa ; but to be frank there was nothing
grand, nothing to cause those effusions so com-
monly indulged in by travellers who draw fancy
pictures. An hour later, every preparation had
been made, and after much yelling and screaming
for the honour of having me on board, the
squadron pushed ofi"; splashing and dashing the
water in continued spray, as each one sought to
pass the other in furious race.
The waters were clear, transparent, and icy
cold. With what pleasure I leaned over the
side, and bathed my aching feverish head as we
rushed along, or drank deeply of what seemed
nectar to me. We had now reached the lake,
that glistened like a great mirror in the burn-
ing sun. After several hours of paddling,
always at a very rapid pace, we arrived at a
small islet on the west side, where we encamped
140 CENTEAL AFRICA.
for tlie night. During the day, I had sonnded
frequently, and had found from forty to fifty
feet of water : and there seemed no percep-
tible tide, and no shells upon its banks. I
had designed to solve this question, and also
to pass to the other side, and determine its
width, or its unity as one lake, or an assemblage
of little lakes, as claimed by others in opposition to
Speke. Notwithstanding the persistence of my
Mtongoli, that the lake was wide and would take
a month to cross, I pointed out to him what I
deemed a coast-line,^ the opposite shore; strength-
ened in my belief by what Colonel Grant had
cited from Sadi, an Arab traveller, who had seen
what he supposed a mountain, from the opposite
side. Under this impression, and knowing that
the lake had never been visited either by Speke
or Grant, and that the map of the former was
purely imaginative, made on report of the na-
tives, I was convinced that the lake had not
the width given it by Speke. The consciousness
that I was the only white man who had ever
been upon the lake, determined me, on the follow-
ing morning, to make every efi'ort to cross to
the other side. In vain I coaxed the Mtongoli ;
he laughed at me and said, "If there were no
* The subsequent exploration of Stanley in April, 1875, ten
months after, has proved that the land that gave me the
impression of a coast-line was, in fact, a chain of islands, of"
which the lake is full.
I EETURN TO MUKOHISON CEEEK. 141
devils there, our boats could not go, for sometimes
the lake is not so tranquil as to-day." I offered
him presents, and promised to give him my gun,
but all to no avail. He simply replied, " We will
not go." I was therefore obliged to resign my-
self to this decree. Weak and in almost a dying
condition, the mere attempt to break away from
this escort, to push alone to what I deemed a solu-
tion of the Lake Question, savoured of folly : and I
was thus obliged to return. M'Tse, fearful that I
might die in the attempt, had secretly instructed
his men not to take me across the lake ; but in
everything else to obey my orders. The day was
spent in racing about, continually sounding, and
mth same result as on preceding day. At mid-
day, I gave the order to return, and about sunset
reached the embouchure of Murchison Creek, near
which a huge rock rears its head, upon whose
summit a mass of birds and gulls were perched.
Irritated and angered at the result, and what I
deemed the bad faith of my Mtongoh, I stopped
the boat and vented my spleen upon the birds,
which I killed in great numbers, to the astonish-
ment of the Ugundi. No less shocked than the
birds must have been the echoes of the lake, never
before awakened to the whizz of ball and roar of gun.
I filled a bottle^ with the water from the Lake
' This bottle of water of the Lake Victoria was sent to his
Highness the Khedive, on my arrival at Khartoum, several
months afterwards.
142 CENTRAL APEICA.
secretly, for I feared tliat the superstitious Ugundi
would prevent me. The sun had sunk like a
globe of fire in the bosom of the lake, when
warned by the fast approaching night we sought
the nearest shore, made a fire, and feasted upon
roasted bananas, to which I added a gourd of
coffee made from the berry of the country. The
Ugundi, by-the-bye, never make a decoction of
coffee, but chew the grain raw. This is a general
custom there : having plenty of wood we made a
roaring fire, and soon fell asleep around its grateful
blaze.
At an early hour of the 16th, accompanied by my
numerous escort, we embarked ; and, after a long
pull, we arrived at the head of Murchison Creek,
that I had quitted the 14th inst. at midday. I found
Selim there surrounded by women and " merissa,"
quite a beau, and having great success among the
Ugunda girls, and I regretted for a moment to
disturb the " dolce far niente " of his life, though
he would doubtless have forgotten me had I suc-
ceeded in pushing my way through to Urondo
gani via the river. For several hours I was
unable to proceed, owing to a violent attack of
fever and dysentery. However, about three o'clock
I put myself in saddle, and reached my " Zeriba "
at sunset. Kellerman and Adam were still there,
for Ba Beker, during my absence, had left the
camp, and apparently deserted them ; it was there-
fore fortunate that I was obliged to return :
DEPART FOR FOUEIRA. 143
otherwise they would perhaps never have left
Ugunda.
The 17th and 18th were spent in preparations
for departure, baulked on all sides by the wily Ba
Beker. A special messenger, however, to M'Tse,
asking his immediate aid, procured for me the
requisite porters, and a Mtongoli to conduct me
direct to Urondogani : the point from which I
hoped to return via the river to Foueira, should
the river permit ; a point from which Speke had
been driven by hostile tribes, and which even
M'Tse assured me made no connexion with the
river at Foueira. This had long been a blank in
geographical knowledge : and as it was still a
subject of doubt whether the Lakes Victoria and
Albert Nyanza joined each other, I determined at
every risk to brave the hazard, though failure
might cost me my life, as well as the lives of my
companions.
CHAPTER XII.
Presents from. M'Tse — Depart from Ugunda — The climate of
the Eqnatoi- — Hostility of the Mtongoli and his men —
Desertion of the escort — I complain to M'Tse and recover
some of my luggage — Our marches continually interrupted
by deluges of rain — Dense forests — A Marsalah brings
me food — Arrival at Urondogani — A Mtongoli presents
me with eight young ladies from M'Tse — Three of them
marry my Soldiers — M'Tse daughter of King M'Tse —
Punishment of Ibrahim — Marches by the river — Head-
quarters of the Admiral of the River Fleet — Hospitalities
— My horse Ugunda — Present remaining young ladies to
the faithful Mtongoli — Retain the boys — Selim.
July 19i/i.— At an early hour tlie porters assem-
bled in great numbers. The little baggage 1
possessed consisted of a few iron cases, that had
contained presents to M'Tse, and a few rags that I
called my clothes : and, not to offend the king, the
presents of skins that he had offered me. The
presents of ivory tusks and other articles were
left with Ba Beker, that he might forward them
to Foueira by the first convoy of ivory, that was
now continually to be sent forward. I had
arranged with M'Tse that he should send me by
the land route a quantity of cattle and provisions
at Mrooli there to await my passage by the river.
Bidding adieu then to Uganda and its hospi-
CLIMATE OF THE EQUATOR. 145
table king, I left my Zeriba, so weak and ema-
ciated that my two soldiers were obliged to aid
me in mounting ; Uganda becoming fat and fret-
ful upon bis banana regime that had well-nigh
killed his master. As we quitted Ugunda M'Tse
appeared at his palace-gate, surrounded by his
hareem ; a blast of horns and a sound of drums
signalled my departure as we quitted for ever our
Zeriba, where thirty days of most eventful
existence had been spent. The route, as heretofore
described, lay over ravine and slough, from which
the foulest odours arose; and through which
Ugunda with difficulty succeeded in forcing his
way. The day was a stormy one, and added in
misery and cold to the difficulties of the journey.
A strange misconception exists as to the real
climate of the Equator; and may be briefly cor-
rected here. Rain and humidity are the chronic
condition of the whole of Central Africa. The
month of April alone affords a slight respite,
during which time the heat is excessive, but the
nights are always cold; the scarcity of wood
rendering the natives really miserable at night.
During other months incessant rains fall ; the days
are damp and humid, but the nights are very cold.
When, however, the sun breaks through the
clouds its rays are almost insupportable. On the
east coast, on the equatorial line, the seasons are
affected by the monsoon winds that blow north-
east, and south-west, for the six months of the
year : a dry wind and a wet wind. Tlie former
146 CENTRAL AFRICA.
may be supported by tlie European : but the latter
is the precursor of all diseases, and specially of con-
sumption, to which the native Soumali is a victim.
To resume : after a march of five hours and
a half we encamp, cold and miserable. It was
here that I was made aware of the enmity of the
Mtongoli, charged with my safe conduct to the
river. His malevolence and the hostility of his
men, were no longer under control of M'Tse,
and they seemed determined to revenge upon me
the friendship their king had persistently extended
to me. I quote from my itinerary, the better to
show the misery to which I was subjected during
twelve days to Urondogani, to reach which only
three days should have been required.
July 20tJi. — At five o'clock I arouse my soldiers,
who in turn endeavour to incite the Mtongoli and
men to depart. An hour after they arrive in
confusion,* and the time till eight a.m. is occupied
in cries and hideous noise. To cite a case : there
stand two Ugundi, quarrelling over their right
to a box, claimed by both parties, as carried
yesterday. An hour passes — still the same scene:
when finally one submits, and sullenly leaves the
case to the claimant, who now relinquishing his
claim, goes to another to repeat the same history.
Impossible to move them. About two p.m. a
fearful storm falls upon the now scattered column;
a terrible pelting rain, through which we march
till sunset. With the exception of five or six
Ugundi, detailed to wait upon me expressly by
DESERTION OF THE ESCOET. 147
M'Tse, there is not a sign of our baggage or escort.
Fortunately, in tlie grove of bananas several
friendly huts, deserted by tlieir occupants, invite us
to shelter. Half famished and cold, we quietly
make a fire with the dry wood from within : and
soon, in that common brotherhood of misery, we
are gathered around the fire, eating our now
habitual food, bananas. Selim occupies with his
wives the hut close by with "Ugunda." During
the night I had a most violent attack of nephritic
colic, due to the bad water to which we were now
compelled to have recourse. The morning dawned
to find only the same Ugundi that had accom-
panied us. Of the two hundred escort of honour
not one had reported himself : and besides all
baggage and clothing, whether mine or belonging
to my soldiers, were missing. I sent an Ugunda
secretly to complain to M'Tse. Four days went
by : condemned to inaction, a prey to fevers and
dysentery. My men also suffered severely from the
former. In those moments I cursed the African
for his hypocrisy and deceit, and unjustly perhaps,
attributed to M'Tse the ills I suffered: though Ba
Beker, as I afterwards learned, was at the bottom
of the conspiracy against my reaching the river.
On the morning of the 24th, when I had already
seriously contemplated making my way alone
through the almost impenetrable cane-brake and
jungle-grass that lined the way, a messenger
Mtongoli, arrived from M'Tse, who sent word to
me that he would regain my baggage, and kill the
148 CENTRAL AFEICA.
individuals engaged in my maltreatment. I hesi-
tated to denounce Ba Beker (and thus more than
probably cause his execution) because of the ser-
vice he had previously rendered me.
Fortunately among several articles stolen, and
now recovered, were my overcoat and my notes.
The loss of the former would have been irrepa-
rable, as the nights v/ere now excessively cold ;
sensibility to which was augmented by my weak
and emaciated condition. After a great parley
with the Mtongoli, a march was ordered, which
lasted only half an hour ! Threats to report to
M'Tse availed me nothing; and I was obliged to
encamp upon various pretexts.
The 25th, 26th, and 27th were passed in insig-
nificant marches, that were made to wait upon the
deluges of rain that fell, and the illness of my men,
who surrendered helplessly to attacks of jungle
fever. I had become so accustomed to them
myself, that after two hours of chill and fever.
I was able, by a great effort made upon my energy
to resume the route.
On the 29th, en route at eight a.m.: a march of
four hours was made. The jungle-grass was at
least twenty feet high. At one p.m. a storm, the
most terrible I had ever witnessed, broke over our
heads, accompanied by flashes of lightning that in
their vividness nearly blinded every one, and left
the scarcely perceptible path almost invisible in
the succeeding gloom. We were compelled to
bivouac in a banana grove, from whence, on the
DENSE FOEESTS. 149
following morning, the road ran tbrougli great
dark forests, that at midday even obscured the
rays of the sun, and whose perpetual shades
re-echoed alone the hoot of the owl, and cries of
monkeys and parrots, that abound in great num-
bers here. In this frightful gloom of forest, and
in the close companionship of beasts, that ever
and anon, whether elephant, lion, or leopard,
crossed our path, I said to myself, — Here, indeed,
is the Africa of my boyish fancy ! a hell on earth,
whose rich vegetation and flowers, like the upas
tree, breathe poison and death ! Scattered here
and. there over this dark, silent forest road, were
human skulls; in fact, every member of the human
body, belonging to the wretches that had been sacri-
ficed to prevent my further progress : to deter me
from leaving Ugunda ! What talisman, other than
the friendship of M'Tse, I possessed to save me
from a like fate, I could not tell : unless it were
that natural instinct that seems to acknowledge
the supremacy of the white man, and the strange
capricious nature which a long experience and study
taught me to turn to account, where another less
skilled, had perhaps paid the forfeit of his life.
On the 31st, a " Marsalah " arrived at night
with friendly salutations from M'Tse, bringing me
a milch-cow and a sheep; the latter was slain
immediately, and my nearly famished suite sat up
nearly all night feasting like wolves.
August 1st. — After passing a small stream, we
arrive at half- past one o'clock of the afternoon at
150 CENTEAL AFRICA.
Urondogani, the river boat station of tlie TJgunda
shore. Here we bivouacked in close proximity
to the river, the murmur of whose waters as they
rushed over " shallals " (rocks), soothed the fierce
but impotent flood of anger, that had surged in
my breast since my departure, the 19th, from
M'Tse : because it seemed to mark the pei^iod
of my dependence upon these negroes, who had
doubtless prolonged the route by an indirect march
through forests and jungle-grass, that alike hid
from view the sun and the direction.
On the following morning the Mtongoli told me,
that " there were no boats: and consequently that
I must wait." I went down to the river, and found
two large " dug outs " that gladdened my heart ;
for I secretly determined, if no longer victimized
by the unwilling Mtongoli, to burn my baggage
and take these boats ; knowing full well that they
could not take them below the " shallals," south.
On the 3rd, whilst preparing to put in execu-
tion the burning of the little baggage that M'Tso
had caused to be returned to me, a messenger
arrived from M'Tse, bringing another Mtongoli,
with orders to procure me boats similar to thosc^
upon the lake, that I might the more easily
descend the river. Then the Mtongoli came
forward, and presented me with eight handsome
girls, young ladies from ten to twenty years of
age, all entirely nude — their clothing had evidently
been appropriated en route by the Mtongoli charged
with their presentation — one of these was a very
PRESENTS OF YOUNG LADIES FROM m'tSE. 151
pretty little girl, daughter of M'Tse, given as a
special proof of the friendship he had for me.
This girl, in form and feature the very picture of
her father M'Tse, has been placed at school in
Cairo, where she now is — one boy of twelve years
of age, and two little ones quite small babes
scarcely able to walk. Here was an unlooked for
dilemma ; to refuse to accept them was to offend
African etiquette, and more than all, brave the
anger of a man to whose courtesy and kindness I
m'tse, daughter of einq- m'tse.
owed my life. It was not to be thought of for a
moment. I sent a message to M'Tse expressing
my great thanks. This present was a God-send
to me ; for so long as I could reward my Mtongoli
I should have a devoted servant; and my intention
was to give them to that one who should aid
me most. Three of these young ladies (quite
pretty by-the-bye) begged to be permitted to be
the wives of my three soldiers; the rest I decided
to retain until I should be ready to embark. The
152 CENTEAL AFEICA.
joy of Said, Abd-el, and Selim knew no bounds,
and a great " merissali " fantasiah, and dance by
the light of the moon in our banana grove habita-
tion, marked the event.
There was only one alloy to all this : both Said
and 4bd-el were nearly naked : their highly prized
uniforms had been stolen with my effects, and Abd-
el, the more sensitive of the two, wept bitterly.
M'Tse it seems had been greatly enraged at the
robbery and bad treatment of myself by one of
the " Mtongoli," who had been named by our men
" Ibrahim," for it was really he, who, perhaps in
concert with Ba Beker, had connived at the
whole affair : had retarded my arrival at Urondo-
gani, robbed me of my effects, and even sacrificed
his own men, and thrown their mutilated bodies
in my path to frighten me from my purpose.
" Ibrahim " had been seized, and ordered to
accompany the " Mtongoli " to my camp, "to look
upon my face and die." I did not know this at the
time, or perhaps I might have pleaded for him,
though he richly deserved death. There was much
in the quick retributive justice of M'Tse, that led
me at times to think, that not all of the execu-
tions I had witnessed had been made with only
a desire to show his authority: for the Ugundi, as
a rale, were ungovernable, cowardly, and cruel.
The morning of the 5th we left Urondogani,
accompanied by my Mtongoli, who induced me
to follow the river, with the idea that he would
find more suitable boats. Once embarked, he
HEAD-QUARTERS OP THE ADMIRAL. 153
would take the land route, in company with Selim
and his wives, charged with my horse, and reach-
ing Mrooli, there await my coming by the river ;
or if, as M'Tse would have me believe, it " went
to the devil," that Selim should at once make his
way to Foueira, and there report the fact. This
was all that I could do, to anticipate the unfavour-
able auguries of my whole force, opposed to the
idea of returning by the river. M'Tse promised
me that his men should be in waiting for me at
Mrooli, where I hoped to come out by the river.
We followed the river through banana groves
and over prairies tenanted by great herds of
elephant and buffalo, that often crossed our
path, and who had grazed down the grass, that
everywhere else in this country obstructs the
view, and renders passage sometimes impossible
without the bayonet and the knife. From the
route we were in full view of the river, that now
and then showed a boulder of rock above its sur-
face, but navigable. At midday, after a brisk
march of several miles, the column headed by
the Mtongoli with a numerous retinue, entered
a wide square where floated the Ugunda flag,
surrounded by a mass of men with music, drums,
and horns. This was the head-quarters of the
admiral commanding; the river fleet. He came to
see me, accompanied by his men, offered me a nice
hut, and told me that on the morrow four boats
should be placed at my disposal. He further
sent me a " Koko," a great many bunches of ripe
M
154 CENTRAL AFRICA.
bananas and plantains, and several jars of the
highlj prized " merissa." " Ugunda," during all
the rigours of this route, had been my faithful
bearer and companion. At night, fearful that
some accident might happen to him, the door of
the hut was enlarged in order to admit and
protect him from the storms, that almost always
commenced at five o'clock in the afternoon, and
raged all night: or the attacks of lion and leopard,
that roared and ramped around the hut. I seldom
slept at night : but with pipe in mouth have sat
for hours with no companion save " Ugunda,"
who lay stretched at my feet : dreaming doubtless
of the time when he should return to more whole-
some food than bananas : or awakened by the howl
of the leopard without, he would start with fear,
and lay his head on me as if for protection.
August 6th. — An unusually fearful storm pre-
vailed since the previous night, and we remained in
camp all day. My two little infant children, and
the remaining young ladies heretofore alluded to,
were presented to the Mtongoli chiefs that had aided
me on the route. It was impossible to bring them
with me : and this was the only thing left me to do.
The Mtongoli, who thus increased their harem, fell
prostrate and yanzigged for at least half an hour
in token of their gratitude. The boys ^ and the
girl M'Tse I decided to take with me, as they
desired to go, and they proved very useful in
^ The Ugunda boj is now in the Egyptian army as a soldier
at the arsenal.
DELAY OF SELIM.
155
baling the boats, rendered continuously necessary
in the thirteen subsequent days of navigation of
the river by their leaky
condition. Four boats
had been procured for
me, similar to those al-
ready described upon
the lake, but of an in-
ferior quality. I had
decided that Selim
should take my horse,
and with the Mtongoli
follow me on the river
side ; and when no
longer able to do so pro-
ceed direct to Mrooh,
and there await my ar-
rival. To anticipate, it
may be well to remark
here that Selim, when
no longer able to follow
me along the shore,
went into camp with my
Ugunda escort near by
on the Unyoro frontier, ''"vov^T^^."
ate up the oxen that M'Tse in good faith had sent
me; and drunk with "merissa," thought no more
of Mrooh, until cattle and merissa consumed they
struck the inland route, arriving at Foueira thirty-
nine days afterwards, twenty-two days after my
arrival there!
CHAPTER XIII.
The Descent of the river — The small-pox — Keba Rega's Boat
— Desertion of my Escort, who fear to advance or return —
Panic of my Staff — Instructions to Selim — We start again
— Encountered by a Storm we land for the night — Flight
of Savages — Gebel M'Tingi — Torrents of rain — Discover
Lake Ibrahim — Lilies — Papyrus Jungles — Savages — Con-
tinual Storms — Endeavour to find the Bed of the River —
The Polar Star, our beacon of safety — The boats filling
with water we are in great danger — We regain the river
— We are compelled to land — Anxiety to meet Selim.
On the morning of the 7th, accompanied by
Mtongoli, all in the four boats given me, I
commenced the descent of the river, whilst the
escort followed on the high banks of the river
which here had assumed a bold and wide character,
a few rocks rising to the surface, but deep and
navigable by large steamer. I had the intention
of constructing a raft on which to place my horse,
rather than trust Selim with him, but I was
obliged to abandon altogether that idea, as the
current of the river was not sufficiently great to
carry it along swiftly ; and besides the only wood
I could procure had not sufficient floating
capacity. The' river is full of crocodiles and
KEBA REGA's boat. 157
hippopotami: and geese, ducks, and unknown birds
frequent its shores.
The still malevolent Mtongoli, placed in my
bark two of their men festering with small-pox.
This disease, as elsewhere in Central Africa and
to the west of the Bahr-el-Abiad, is the common
pest of the country. Ba Baker had in the first
days of this expeditiou endeavoured to cause me
to catch this loathsome and fatal disease; fatal
here, for once infected the savage leaves you
with a morsel of bread and a gourd of water, far
removed from any habitation. If you are strong
enough to overcome the disease, starvation then
enhances the danger of your situation. Thou-
sands thus perish, and the propagation of the
disease is insured by the fact that no pre-
cautions are taken to disinfect clothes, or even to
inter the corpse, that is left to bleach its bones in
the open air.
Scarcely had I driven these men from my boat
and caused them to be placed with the Mtongoli,
when a large black dug-out canoe, was seen
approaching, heavily laden with men. The
Mtongoli turned the boats towards shore, and
quickly landed. In reply to my inquiry, I learned
that we had now reached neutral ground (place
from which Speke had been driven), and that the
boat in question was Keba Rega's, who was thus
watching the river. They asked, " who we were,
and why we wanted to descend the river ? " Re-
158 CENTRAL ATEICA.
ceiving no satisfactory reply, they turned and
left. My escort, headed by the Mtongoli, now
insisted that they could go no farther; and
declared that from the menacing attitude of these
men we had just seen, I should surely be at-
tacked, and that it was impossible for me to go
on by the river. Selim added his counsel, and
attempted to dissuade me. .Angered beyond en-
durance at this desertion, I drew my revolver,
and drove the whole mass of them, now 200 in
all, like a flock of sheep flying up the bank, and
into the thick banana groves. Kellerman here
too lost heart, and I told him, " You may go
with Selim, I should only be too happy to get
rid of you. As for me it is an affair of Scylla and
Charybdis, and I really hope you will not follow
me, but if you do — no more impertinence, but try
and aid me for once in your life, or it will be
worse for you. I am determined to navigate and
explore the river to Foueira or to Hades ! ' ' Finally,
a Mtongoli came back, and said he would send to
Namjongoz, for permission from the Sheik there
to descend the river; promising that he would
bring an auswer on the morrow. I consented to
this ; and quickly debarking my poor tent, I soon
pitched it on the bank, hauling after me the
boats, and securing them to the pickets of my
tent. Selim came acting as envoy from the
Mtongoli : they feared to return to M'Tse, lest their
heads should pay the penalty of the non-execution
INSTEUCTIONS TO SELIM. 159
of his orders to go to Mrooli : and tliey feared
as well to go there, on account of the Keba
Rega : a fear too well grounded, though at that
time I accused them of childish timidity.
The 8th was spent in assorting my fortunately
good stock of cartridges, explosive and non-
explosive balls. My stock of rations was exceed-
ing low; I had only five pounds of flour, and
five pounds of beans, to which was added one
sheep, and a quantity of green bananas. My
party then consisted of myself. Said and Abd-el-
Rahman, Kellerman and Adam, and three chil-
dren, eight mouths to feed. I hoped however to
reach Mrooli, and there, as arranged, to draw
rations from the Ugunda escort. To Selim, I
renewed my instructions, telling him " that after
waiting four days at Mrooli, if he should not hear
my gun as a signal of arrival, he should hasten*
to the Military Post at Foueira, and report me a
prisoner to Keba Rega." The day passed without
the return of the promised messenger, and I in-
formed the now nervous Mtongoli, that I should
leave them on the morrow. I guarded well my
boats that night, for I feared these wily fellows
would steal them from me ; and thus compel me
to encamp with them or return to M'Tse.
On the following morning at an early hour my
tent was struck, and packed with my iron cases
(eight of which had been returned me from the
stolen lot) in the boat, taking three of them (two
160 CENTRAL AFRICA.
in tow) we left tlie bank and paddled boldly out into
the stream. Kellerman was sulky, and not one
word of sympathy could be had from the dejected
countenances of all. Selim had promised me that-
he would leave before me. So much for the
start. With the exception that the course of the
river gave me great uneasiness, for they claimed
that it did not go to Mrooli, but eastward, and
that I should be attacked, I felt a great relief in
being deprived of the presence of the negroes, that
till now had been a source of great trouble and
annoyance to me. Thrown upon my own re-
sources, and brought face to face with peril, from
which they had recoiled, my heart grew strong :
and the first attempt at gaiety, to which I had
been a stranger,, forced its way to my lips in an
outburst of song, as sitting in the stern of the
•boat I directed the course paddling, also aided
by Said and Abd«el-Eahman, whose strength and
good will made up for their inexperience in
boating. We glided along until five o'clock in the
afternoon, when an approaching storm warned us
to find a resting-place for the night. The river
had now become broad and deep, being certainly
300 yards wide and thirty to forty feet deep.
Save here and there, at rare intervals, a thick
and impenetrable growth of papyrus lined its
shores. Near by we discovered a path made in
the lily that bordered the shore, and entering it
found the land, with a boat (dug out) tied to a
FLIGHT OF SAVAGES. 161
stake, and filled with decayed fish. Ere we could
land the storm descended in great fury. We
landed the tent, and after much trouble in the
darkness of the night, aided only by the fitful
flashes of lightning, we succeeded in pitching it by
the water's edge. Our matches were wet, and
thus we were without a fire. Said and myself
went up the bank and espied several huts in close
proximity, and pressed by cold and hunger we
made our way stealthily towards them in the hope
of finding them deserted. A fire was burning in
the middle of one of the huts, whilst great bunches
of bananas hung from every post. With a piece of
burning wood iand the bananas we made our way
back ; built a fire in the tent, and in the choking,
blinding smoke ate our bananas and our raw flour
with ravenous hunger ; all seated in my little tent,
as in fact I had shared it with them during the
entire term of my expedition. At six o'clock' a.m.
the savages, black as Hades, and of hideous aspect,
gathered courage from our weakness, and came
down to see us, surprised and encouraged by the
fact, that the rotten fish in their boat alongside
had been undisturbed. They regarded me with
wonder and fear, for a white face had never before
invaded these regions. Whilst the fire was being
lighted to cook our flour and water, I struck a
match to light my pipe. With a rush and scream
of fright they precipitately fled ; the lighting of a
match confirming them in their first impression that
162 CENTRAL AFEICA.
we came from the liidden and mysterious land of
Lucifer. Fatigued by tlie labour of paddling, I
decided to lighten the work by transferring bag-
gage to the two boats, and abandon the third ;
which on our departure was quickly seized by the
savages, their own being of very rude con-
struction.
Amidst a pelting rain we left our encampment,
and pushed out into the stream. I was obliged
to attach v/ith ropes the boat in which I had
placed Adam and Kellerman ; since they were
utterly unable to keep her head down stream, but
turned round and round with the current. Weak
and enfeebled by disease I steered and paddled in
turn, the task rendered doubly difficult by this
union, encouraging Said and Abd-el, upon whom,
with myself fell the burden of this thirteen days
of boating, and untold misery both moral and
physical. A momentary cessation from the pelt-
ing rain-fall enabled us to perceive on the right,
in the distance, a high mountain, called by the
natives " Gebel M'Tingi." All day long we con-
tinued our paddling, propelling our boats
through the water at about the rate of four to
five miles an hour, aided by the current. At
eight o'clock at night, no longer able to see our
way, and having vainly searched for a landing
place, for the two sides of the river were guarded
by an impenetrable mass of papyrus and water-
lilies that came up from a very great depth,
HEAVY RAINS. 163
we slept in the boats, wliich drifted down the
stream in a darkness that enveloped everything.
The storm raged with unabated fury; but tired
and worn with fatigue Said, Abd-el-Rahman, and
the servants, slept soundly. During the night I
left my position in the boat, to bale out the water
that grew hourly deeper, either from the rain or
the leakage. This was the work apportioned the
children during the day; and right well they served
us in this respect. Crouched in the stern of the
boat, that swung round and round as borne down by
the current, I endeavoured to pierce the gloom that
surrounded us. At one moment buoyed up by
hope, the next in the very abyss of despair ; thus
the night was passed. Sleep was perfectly impos-
sible ; for I felt that my life went with the current
that was taking us down — where ?
At four o'clock a.m. I awoke my men to con-
tinue the route. At midday we passed the moun-
tain seen in the distance the day before, and
shortly after, as if by magic, we entered a sheet
of water, in which the river lost itself ; and in
vain I looked for the opposite shore, to be seen
only from the river we had just left. Stretching
away to the eastward, a scarcely visible line seemed
to indicate land : certainly twenty -miles away.
Was this the basin from which, as M'Tsetold me,
" the river went eastward " ? It certainly seemed
only too true ; and for the moment a thrill of
horror ran through my veins : for if it should be
164 CENTEAL AFRICA.
true, we were lost. I had only sufficient food
to last until we arrived at Mrooli : and of this
I carefully distributed to each one an equal
share.
As we advanced into the lake (since called
" Ibrahim") I descried in the distance what seemed
to be land to the westward ; but after several
hours of hard paddling, proved to be on a near
approach an immense sea of lilies, whose heads
floated upon the surface like a great hat, and which
grew up from an incredible depth. Through
this apparently illimitable field there were open
passages of two to three feet wide, cut in every
direction, made as we soon discovered by native
canoes, that fled like phantoms at our approach.
These roads led to clumps of floating islands of
reeds, to which the savages resorted to fish.
Turning to the westward, and following one of
these passages with a desire to reach land if pos-
sible, and build a fire that we might cook food,
we pushed through with nervous and anxious
haste. After several hours of hard pulling, we
finally neared what we presumed to be land; but
what in reality was nothing but an immense
papyrus jungle, growing upon a floating " sod "
— matted with grass, and beneath which there
was water, to a considerable depth. Here the
road lost itself, and we could only behold before
us an insurmountable barrier to the shore that we
had long lost sight of. A boat's crew of savages,
PAPYRUS JUNGLES. 165
however, wlio had not observed us, came dash-
ing through, and opening with their paddles the
matted papyrus, disclosed a bayou, thus inge-
niously hidden from view. We immediately made
for the spot, which we found with difficulty; though
but a moment before it had opened to receive the
savages. The narrow channel just sufficed to
permit our boats, which I uncoupled, to pass in
single file. Once within, all was dark and gloomy ;
the waters assumed a dark putrid character from
the decayed vegetable matter that formed an earthy
covering, and from which grew into a matted arch
overhead, a species of grass and papyrus, that
shut out, save here and there, the rays of the sun.
For two hours we shoved our boats through this
channel, caught at every moment by the overhang-
ing and luxuriant vegetation, in the hope of reach-
ing terra firma. Finally, we discovered a hut
made of grass, before which was hung upon a
frame of wood thousands of rotten fish, the sole
food of these people. Several small " dug out "
canoes at this place barred our passage. An old
man bent with age advanced to meet us with
stealthy step, and face that marked his astonish-
ment at the apparition of a white man. He proved
to be an idiot. However, he finally understood
that we wished to kill our sheep and cook it,
and led us to his cabin over the " sod," under
which was very deep water, and in whose spongy
surface we sank knee deep at every step. We
166 CENTRAL AFRICA.
soon built a fire of the dry papyrus, and smoked
rather than cooked our only sheep, the flesh of
which, scarcely warmer than when in life, we
devoured ravenously. Collecting the remainder,
we prepared to depart; as several brutal and
hideous-looking faces, till now hidden in the
jungle, commenced to assemble. To have been
attacked here would have been fatal to us, with no
possible means of escape. We turned our backs
upon them however, having our arms in easy
reach, and gained the point where we had entered,
just as the sun was sinking to rest. Another night
of horrors was before us ; for the flash of light-
ning and mutter of thunder in the gathering
clouds betokened a storm that soon burst upon
us in all its fury ; propelled by the wind, that
required all efforts to resist, for we were without
anchors, and the yielding lilies into which we
were pushed, and to which we endeavoured to
cling broke, and left us hopelessly at the mercy
of the winds. About ten o'clock we were blown
against a floating island of reeds, such as
described, and to this we attached our boats for
the night; each in turn watching and baling in
order to keep from sinking.
On the 12th, at five o'clock a. m., after eating a
morsel of our mutton of the preceding night, we
again commenced our painful work of paddling,
to which we addressed ourselves all day and till
ten o'clock at night, when we reached the left
DISCOVERY OF LAKE IBRAHIM. 167
bank amid a fearful storm. Here, after devouring
the last morsel of mutton, now thoroughly putrid,
v/e threw ourselves upon the earth and slept despite
the storm till morning.
On the 13th, at an early hour, we sought and
procured a small store of green bananas, whilst
Said making a fire on an iron platter fried some
flour mixed with water — to us a most delicious
treat — though really a most abominable and un-
healthy mixture.
My object was now, if possible, to find the bed
of the river, from which we had been driven by
an adverse wind ; and which would leave us free
from the intolerable lilies that stretched over the
surface as far as the eye could reach. In addi-
tion to these a little cup-shaped lily — Pistia Stra-
tiotes — grows here in great quantities. In fact.
Lake Ibrahim is the great vegetable nursery for
the Bahr-el-Abiad ; like the Yictoria, acting as a
great reservoir for the incessant rains. The
o
almost tranquil lake is only relieved of its heavy
pressure of water when the vegetable matter
decays, is annually loosened, and bearing upon its
bosom the Pistia Stratiotes, and detached islands
of papyrus, rushes down and past Karuma Falls
into the Lake Albert and thence to the north. This
causes the annual rise in the Nile long before it is
felt at the Saubat. The waters of the Nile from
the Yictoria are clear and transparent ; whilst here
they are discoloured with vegetable matter.
168 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Kellerman and Adam had now become tho-
roughly disheartened and frightened ; the former
grumbled and muttered that we were hopelessly
lost, and cursed himself that he had come. All
this was intended as a reproach to me ; for in
truth the way was lost, really as yet unknown to
any one : as no other white man had ever seen
this part of the river. Irritated and vexed at his
mutinous conduct, I threatened him severely, end-
ing by reminding him that I had begged him not
to accompany me, knowing full well that we should
be obliged to suffer hardships.
We toiled all day at the paddles through the
almost impassable lilies that covered, as far as the
eye could reach, the surface of the lake. The
mountain M'Tingi yet in sight served as a guide
for the direction, for the compass that had aided
me in my march southward, had been by an
accident broken into fragments, and was there-
fore useless. At nightfall the whole heavens were
charged with great black clouds of wind and rain,
from which burst great peals of thunder, and vivid
flashes that alone enabled us to distinguish each
other in the inky blackness that enshrouded all.
A hurricane of wind and rain would come from
one quarter, to be succeeded by another from the
opposite quarter. Four storms thus burst in suc-
cession upon us, with a fury that seemed to
threaten instant destruction, whirling around
and speeding before it our two barks, that were
THE POLAR STAB A BEACON OP SAFETY. 169
only saved from being upset by being tied
together.
Sai'd and Abd-el-Rahman, wearied and fatigued,
dropped asleep on the cases ; whilst Kellerman and
Adam groaned with fear and despair : and the
wearied children, though dropping to sleep at every
moment, still aided me in keeping the leaking boats
afloat. Wrapped in my coat, chilled and wet to
the skin, I kept the silent awful watch that night,
expecting every moment that the frail ropes of
the boats, broken in threads, would separate, and
launch us into the jaws of this unknown lake :
our fate a mystery to all save the Almighty, to
whom I offered a silent prayer then. As during
some sudden danger or disease that had well-nigh
carried me from this life more than once before,
an electric flash of memory reviewed the past
from childhood's days to manhood. Coming from
the hidden archives of the brain, whose tender
memories make life so dear, they seemed to quit
their abiding-place to make room only for the
unwelcome tenant death. The night wore slowly
away, and those painful hours seemed to be pro-
longed into weeks. It must have been three o'clock
in the morning when the fury of the storm passed
into a combined attack southward, leaving the hea-
vens above clear. The stars came out, and among
them, low down in the horizon, that I had at first
taken for the light of a Zeriba, I perceived the
'polar star. Quickly arousing Said and Abd-el-
170 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Rahman, I pointed to the star as a beacon of
safety. They took it for a Zeriba light, and thus
awakened to energy we paddled with redoubled
force ; until the break of day disclosed directly
before us a wide sheet of water, whose clear
surface denoted the natural bed of the river. We
were not mistaken : for the moment we had
reached it we found a slight current, that set us
in the proper direction.
The whole day we continued the arduous work
at the paddle, the sun coming out with great fierce-
ness. At sundown, unable to reach the distant
shore, we tied our boats to an island of papyrus
that grew up from the treacherous depths. Our
meagre rations of flour I distributed equally.
Unable to make a fire, we were obliged to eat the
raw paste, made by mixing it with water. Tired
and worn out, T arranged the watch for the night,
that all might profit by the rest, for the exertion
of the morrow. I buoyed my men up with the
hope, that the river would soon emerge from the
lake, and that we must be nearing Mrooli.
The first watch was given to Said, and I slept
soundly, until awakened by a gurgUng sound of
water. I awoke with horror, to find the water
rapidly gaining upon us. Five minutes more,
and the two boats with their contents would have
gone to the bottom. Hastily awaking Said and
Abd-el-Rahman, who overpowered by sleep had
thus invited the fate that threatened us, we com-
WE REGAIN THE RIVER. 171
menced to bale for our lives. The excitement w^as
such as to arouse all hands : and each one by
turns baled away, until the vp'ater had been thrown
out. The night was clear, and not a cloud
obscured the firmament, whose unveiled stars
shone as bright as day. With common consent
we cast adrift from what came near being our
funeral papyrus pile, and slowly drifted down
with the current, which had very suddenly in-
creased in rapidity. Before us, in the distance,
the lake seemed entirely shut in by land, and a
mountain on our right. If there should be no
outlet, and the river here lost itself, there was
nothing left me but to take to the shore, and find
my way to Mrooli, certainly not far distant ; but
what to do with Kellerman and Adam I did not
know. Their feet were swollen almost like
elephants', and they would be unable to walk.
We paddled away, upheld by nervous energy,
reaching the distant land about mid-day, there to
find that the lake suddenly narrowed to about
700 yards. It was the river ! With what joy we
pulled away, until we had left the lake that had
well-nigh proved fatal to us !
At three o'clock on the 16th we had so far
advanced that I thought I could discern in the
distance the village of MrooH'on the river Kafou,
and the solitary tree under which we had rested
on our way by land southward. We had slept in
our boats for four successive nights, during which
172 CENTRAL AFRICA.
time, in the impossibility of making fire, we had
been obliged to eat our flour raw, with a few roasted
beans that I had ordered to be cooked in the be-
ginning of the voyage. We all looked pale and hag-
gard: if it were possible to say so of Said and Abd-
el-Rahman, whose lustrous black skins now had
a lifeless colour, and looked pinched and worn by
hunger and fatigue. Only once the latter showed
sign of a faint heart, but was quickly reproved by
Said, who said to him, " Teschouf el Bey, ye
Achoui ! " (Only look at the Bey, 0 my brother !)
On each side of the river a tangled impenetrable
mass of plants grew up, and defied our reaching
the land, that is thus bordered for a considerable
distance. No longer able to continue the route
from fatigue and hunger, I headed the boat for
the right bank; and by the most untiring exertion,
cutting a passage with knife and b^onet, we
succeeded in forcing our way to the shore. The
boats were hauled up, and the boxes taken out.
The cords in many places had given way, and
great seams that gaped open, kept our wearied
boys constantly at work.
A large fire was soon burning, and after a
hasty dinner, we threw ourselves upon the earth
to sleep, awakened only about five o'clock by a
perfect deluge of rain, that continued all night.
My tent was pitched, in which were huddled my
whole force, the odour from whom was an in-
fliction I could only escape by ordering them to
ANXIETY TO MEET SELIM. 173
brave the storm tliat raged without. Sympathy
in misery however was more potent than my
olfactories, and they remained. I entertained
now no doubt that Mrooh lay not far distant;
and with a light heart I thought that on the
morrow I should meet Selim, procure rations,
or if necessary take the land route direct for
Foueira: proud of having established the con-
nexion of the Victoria Nile with this point (and
Lake Albert), and of having added another great
basin to the equatorial water-shed, in the discovery
of Lake Ibrahim.
CHAPTER XIV.
Entering the Stream I fire a Signal — No response — Hostile
fleet of Boats sent by Keba Rega — Parley with the Sheik
— We attack — The Leader is killed — Several Boats with
their Crews sunk — I am wounded — The Savages renew the
attack, but are finally dispersed by our fire, and make for
the Shore — Heavy losses of the Savages — Fire my only
Rocket which fails — Adam and Kellerman — Mount
Kikungura — Distant Nogarah heard — Detachment from
Foueira — Meet old Comrades — Ludicrous incident —
Meet Baba Tuka and the ex-king Rionga — Foueira — The
Problem of the Albert Nyanza reluctantly abandoned —
Pleasant Reunion.
The sun of the 17tli of August awoke us only
from a fatigued slumber, wlien its rays had become
fiercely hot. Hastily swallowing the relics of our
paste of the night before, we embarked our cases
in the boats, the openings of which had been
stopped with rags and weeds. At ten o'clock
we left the shore, and pushed our way through
the jungle channel into the stream : and after
paddhng two hours we neared the shore, when in
the distance Mrooli was plainly to be seen. I
ordered the shots to be fired as a signal to Selim
of our arrival, as agreed upon. There was no
HOSTILE FLEET OF KEBA EEGA. 175
response ; but in the thick papyrus that lined the
shore, I saw to my surprise and horror numerous
boats, whose occupants with arms in hand and
eager lurking glance, awaited my approach. A
hurried word of caution to my men caused the
boats to drift down the stream, whilst I gave
orders to tie them together, deploy our cartridges,
and place the cases in barricade, one upon the
other. Fortunately I had a large provision of
cartridges, not alone for the two Snyder breech-
loaders of Said and Abd-el-Rahman ; but for my
Reilly a large quantity of explosive shell. Be-
sides these three guns, there were three self-
cocking pistols, ordered to be placed on the cases
for close action.
The river here was almost lake-like, and had a
width of at least a thousand yards, and was of
great depth, a fact that greatly aided me in my
desperate defence ; for though the assailants soon
occupied both sides of the river, they were unable
to reach me with their lances. Keeping my boats
broadside in the middle of the river, I received
their attack, as with wild yells and war-song, ac-
companied by Nogarah and horns that were re-
echoed far into the country, they deployed their fleet
of forty boats, in each of which were at least fifteen
to twenty men armed with lances, packed so
closely that their movements were impeded; a
great advantage to me, hoAvever, as the sequel
proved. In close order they endeavoured to encircle
176 CENTRAL AFEICA.
my boat, headed by the Sheik — who alone of all
the number had the slightest pretension to dress ;
a red handkerchief wound around his head, in which
a mass of feathers had been arranged.
The men advanced with extraordinary audacity,
sure of their prey. They were the people of Keba
Rega, the king of Unyoro ; he, who in June 1872,
attacked Sir Samuel Baker at Masindi, already men-
tioned at page 40. These men therefore had smelt
gunpowder; but it seemed not in sufficient quantity
to deter them from attack. The Mtongoli, who
spoke a little broken Arabic, announced to me that
they had been sent by Keba Rega to kill me, adding,
"useless for you to resist, the fishes will eat you at
sundown." In reply, I told him that Keba Rega
professed friendship for my Government, pointing
to the Egyptian flag hoisted to the prow of my boat.
With shouts of defiance they renewed their war-
song, amidst a horrid din of drums and horns,
numbering about 500 ; their hideous faces illumined
with savage devilish glee at the prospect of blood
and booty they advanced to the attack.
Abd-el-Rahman, no longer able to restrain
his excitement threw his rifle up to shoot ; when
throwing off the horror of my position for the
moment, I cried, " If you shoot, I'll kill you."
His arm immediately fell in obedience. I told
him that upon the first shot depended our lives : and
I claimed it. Rapidly gaining upon us, came first
the Sheik, who endeavoured to flank me. Raising
\M
'™''"' !i ! i iiiii[
!||iilllill!lllllilllililli!iiilliili';ii.i^^
THE COMMANDER IS KILLED. 177
my gun several times, only to receive in return
Ms jeers, I finally planted in Ms breast an explo-
sive ball, wliicli bursting there seemed to let out
Ms life-blood all at once, as dripping in gore,
lie fell over on Ms comrades, and in doing so
capsized them all into tlie stream ! Resting our
guns upon our barricade of cases, our firing was
quick and accurate. With deadly aim, Sai'd and
Abd-el-Rahman raked whole boat crews : who
floundering in the water, were either drowned, or
offered an easy and certain target to our rapid
and continuous firing. In vain they attempted
to escape : a well-distributed fire had demo-
lished the major part of their fleet, now closely
huddled together in great confusion. The shells
of my Reilly burst amongst them, tore great
holes in their boats, that sunk, having nothing to
stop the leaks, or bursting in their naked bodies,
carried consternation and terror, where only a
moment before a hellish desire for massacre ani-
mated them in their wild fiendish glee.
TJnperceived by me, and protected by a detached
island of papyrus, that now and then floated by,
a boat had gained its friendly cover, and un-
seen had come within scarcely a lance length of
our .boat. Enveloped in smoke I did not see the
uplifted lance of the savage, for at the same
moment I felt a blinding shock, and fell stunned
and bleeding behind the case that had served me
as a rest and barrier. I heard Said say, " You
178 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
have killed the Bey ! " but ere he could reach ine,
I had regained my feet, whilst the blood welled
in a stream from my nostrils, from an ugly wound
caused by a pistol-shot from the hands of
Adam.
It seems he had seen the movement of the savage,
quickly seized a revolver, and being directly behind
me fired ; the ball had grazed my nose, inflicting
the wound that had knocked me down, whilst
Sai'd and Abd-el, turning their fire upon the
boat, had killed, almost at gun's length every
occupant.
A lull in the firing had been caused by the
accident, and many of the savages having regained
their boats, were now advancing again to the
attack* doubtless presuming that our ammunition
was expended. Wiping away with my handker-
chief the blood that almost blinded me, we renewed
the fire, with the same deadly aim and result as
before. The savages no longer hoping to reach
us plunged into the stream, and made for the
shore, leaving the bodies of their dead and
wounded, with piteous screams, to float down
with the stream. Once on shore they followed
us with mad frenzied yells, as they were joined
by thousands who had been assembled by Nogarali
and war-horn, whose significant " Toot ! toot ! "
sounded gratingly on my ears ; for if the river
should become so narrow as to permit them to
attack me from both banks simultaneously, I
GREAT LOSSES OP THE ENEMY. 179
could not hope to escape. Well-directed shots
however, whose results were made known to us
by howls of pain, and a splash as bodies fell into
the water, were welcomed by Said and Abd-el-
Rahman with screams of defiance, and exultation.
Fortunately for us, and in contradiction to pre-
vious reports of this part of the river, it
continued both, tvide and deep (and navigable for
steamers of heaviest draft) ; and thus our pursu-
ing assailants could not reach us with their
lances.
At sunset all sounds of pursuit were lost in the
distance ; and the practice of never attacking at
night seemed to prevail among the TJnyori tribes,
as well as others, whose hostility I had occasion,
before and since, to brave. But, in order to
guard against surprise, I told Said and Abd-el-
Rahman, that it would be necessary to put as much
distance between us and the savages before day-
light as possible ; and we accordingly paddled with
energy all night. From the number of bodies that
we had seen tumble into the river, sustained by the
most exaggerated reports carried to Foueira, by
straws (savage mode of enumeration) giving
their loss, we placed the number at eighty-two,
including two Sheiks. The number, however,
as stated by themselves greatly exceeded this ;
about 450 cartridges had been expended in the
contest.
Our rations of flour and beans were almost
180 CENTEAL AFRICA.
entirely exhausted, and a division was made tliat
would enable us to have a handful for the morrow.
It was necessary then to employ every energy to
escape from the danger of starvation tTiat stared
us in the face. Could I overcome this new
danger that had been imposed upon me by the non-
arrival of Selim, who I feared had been attacked
by the same party and driven away ? (Subsequent
events proved that Selim had not yet arrived.)
In order to attract his attention, if possible, and
apprise him of my whereabouts, I gave to Said
the only rocket that I had kept for such an emer-
gency, attaching it to a small stick alongside the
flagstaff. Said put fire to it : it flashed and splut-
tered and sank into the water — a failure !
My only hope of success thus went out in the
gloom of the night : and we settled with desperate
courage to the work of propelling the boat. By
threats and intimidation I compelled both Adam
and Keller man to ply their paddles. My breast
and arm were bruised and blackened by the con-
cussion of the heavy charge of the elephant-gun,
and I used my paddle with great pain and diffi-
culty : added to which my eye was so completely
closed, and black from the inflammation of my
broken nose, that it now gave me excessive pain.
I had a severe chill and fever during the night,
but I felt how precious every instant was, and
resolutely kept the paddle in hand until ten
o'clock the next day, when fatigued and nearly
MOUNT EIKUNGURA. 181
famished, we landed at a spot, where we made a
fire and cooked our mess of flour. The feet of
Adam and Kellerman were swollen to the size of
elephants', and they suffered great pain ; but the
courage of my men was sustained by the belief
that I knew my road; and that if they would hold
out we should arrive at Kissembois, Rionga Island,
on the morrow. Mount Kikungura, a cone-shaped
hill on my right, confirmed my assurance. I threw
myself upon the bank, and, despite the myriads
of mosquitoes, which I had forgotten to mention
in the catalogue of misery that . had daily marked
our cruel sufferings during the month since our
leaving M'Tse — slept as soundly as if upon a bed
of down.
The morning of the 19th, at an early hour, the
last handful of flour had been distributed, share
and share alike, and we were soon en route. 1
insisted, that by incessant work we could reach
Kissembois at night ; and this gave an extra spurt
ia getting over the last quarter ; for Kissembois
offered us shelter and food from the ever-grate-
fuUy remembered Riouga, ex-king of Mrooli.
We paddled and paddled until after midnight,
keeping as well as we might the middle of the
stream, the dim outline of the high papyrus that
lined each shore alone enabling us to keep the
direction. I said to Said, " Surely we are near
Kissembois : fire your gun, in order to call the
attention of Rionga." At this moment several
182 CENTRAL AFRICA.
hippopotami , surprised doubtless by so unusual
an intrusion upon their nocturnal foraging expe-
ditions, left the shore with maddened roar, and
encircling our boat made a show of fight. We
poured a brisk fire into them as we neared the
bank, driving them frightened away. It was now
two o'clock in the morning ; darkness and a
drizzHng rain enveloped us all. Famished, faint
with hunger and fatigue, I decided to tie our boat
to the weeds until morning; and if possible to
seek the shore, in order to gather some bananas.
I ordered another volley to be fired, and scarce
had the echo died away when the faint sound of a
distant Nogarah was heard ; a moment after, a
bugle-call rang out clear upon the air. A thrill
of joy, like an electric shock, passed throiigh every
fibre of our hearts. Thank God, we are saved !
I confess that the darkness concealed a tear that
involuntarily forced its way, whilst poor Keller-
man, nearly broken-hearted, cried for joy.
In the excitement of the moment I threw up
my hat, shot my pistol into it, and lost it as it
fell into the river. In company with Sa'id and
Abd-el-Rahman I jumped into the miry earth,
and found myself waist deep in the filthy mud ;
tne former, however, had succeeded in pushing
nis way to the shore, and fired shots, in
reply to the now-continued " II ire " (forward)
that was being sounded by bugle. This could
be no other than a detachment fi'om Foueira.
MEETING OF OLD COMRADES. 183
I called back Said and Abd-el-Raliman and
concluded to await tlie break of day, as in the
darkness we could see nothing. An hour after-
ward we heard the splash of oars, and with
nervous excitement awaited their approach. They
halted a short time, and in the distance we heard
their challenge. So great was our excitement,
and the husky nervousness of our voices, that a
long parley took place ere we could convince them
that it was Saat-el-Bey, " the Bey," who had come
by the river. They finally approached us, and the
affectionate greeting in the darkness by Said and
Abd-el-Rahman of their comrades "El Games,"
" El Fil," and others of like nicknames, was really
affecting. I had judged aright; a detachment
from Eoueira, under command of Baba Tuka,
the Adjutant-Major, had come only that day on a
foraging expedition. He had heard our shots,
and responded by a bugle-call, and had instructed
his men to come to our relief, and take me to
Rionga Island as the nearest point; whilst he
and Rionga would come a few hours later, and
bring me food and whatever I might want. With
heart touched by this exhibition of kindness and
welcome, I forgot my hunger and fatigue in the
joy of the moment. Following the soldiers in-
structed to convey us to the point designated, we
arrived shortly afterward. Day had not yet broken,
and the rain still came down in fitful deluges, or
in a misty cold drizzle. I can never recall a
O
184 CENTRAL AFRICA.
scene that occurred on arriving, without laughing
heartily. A few huts on the high bank above our
heads emitted smoke; and the savoury smell of
food appealed to my olfactory senses to such a
degree, as to lend unexpected strength to my
wasted limbs. Climbing the hill quickly I
entered unperceived, when my shadow, cast upon
the hut by the blaze, caused the two blacks
hanging over the fire to turn and behold a ghost-
like bearded face. With one simultaneous bound,
and agonized cry of fear, they jumped to escape
by the opposite side; but the unyielding grass
refused them exit: and the shock sent the hut
whirling in the air like an inverted umbrella.
Whilst too absorbed to laugh at the ludicrous
sight, I seized the smoking fish and, with my
men, who came to join me, devoured it. The
frightened blacks, who were Rionga's men, had
escaped to the bush, but were induced to return
by some of their comrades, who accompanied
the soldiers, and they added to our feast a quan-
tity of roast potatoes. Never before or since have
I enjoyed a repast to such a degree. The savages
even looked on in wonder, to see our ravenous
consumption of food.
The morning of the 20th dawned upon us, seated
around the fire in a common circle of friendly
talk. The wondering natives and soldiers listen-
ing to Sai'd and Abd- el-Rahman, who recounted
to them our strange adventures, and the battle in
FOUEIEA. 185
whicli we had defeated the Unyori. At seven
o'clock the Adjutant-Major Baba Tuka, and
Rionga ariived, bringing me milk and eggs. The
affectionate greeting of the former, and the joy
of Rionga, to hear that his old enemy had been
badly beaten, knew no bounds. A dance was
immediately given in my honour, and I was named
upon the spot "El Belignan Kebire" (Great Moun-
tain). " How is it possible that you came by the
river? did not the Afrites catch you?" "Yes,"
I answered Rionga, " very nearly at Mrooli."
I refer to the breakfast that Rionga brought me
of milk and eggs with a pleasure that none but a
man nearly starved may know how to appreciate.
Rionga could scarcely believe that I was the
same man who had left him a few months be-
fore. My hair hung in great damp locks around
my shoulders ; my beard, that covered my breast,
seemed to render more cadaverous a pale and
emaciated face; while the painful wound upon
my nose, and one eye closed and blackened, made
him doubt, certainly with reason, my identity.
Kellerman and Adam were in a frightful state with
swollen legs and feet.
Accompanied by the Adjutant-Major we pro-
ceeded to Foueira, where we were received with
every manifestation of joy by the garrison. To
ray eager question if aid or succour had been
sent me, or any letters ? the answer was, " No-
thing." Foueira had been looked forward to as a
186 CENTRAL AFRICA.
haven of rest and convalescence ; there was neither
medicine nor doctor; and the troops were abso-
hitely suffering for want of both.
From this point I had hoped for aid, as I had
written, that I wished to settle the problem of the
Albert Nyanza, and going north, follow the Nile to
Goudokoro (whether navigable or not). There
had been no communication with Goudokoro, and I
therefore with regret was obliged to abandon the
project. Baba Tuka had fitted up nicely for me
several huts near to the river, and here I was
to stay, certainly until myself and j)eople could
regain sufficient strength to attempt to march
the 300 kilometres that lay between Foueira and
Goudokoro. I must await the arrival of Selim, and
also Suleiman, my Sais, who had gone to Ugunda,
and who had doubtless met the former on the road.
Ibrahim Eff., my unworthy dragoman, came to
see me, affected tears, and declared his sincere
repentance for his wicked schemes against me.
There was a thing I needed — rest. The Adjutant-
Major, his oflBcers and men, treated me with great
care and fondness ; he compressed for me an oil
from Sim Sim, an oleaginous seed greatly used in
Africa, to apply to my wound, now become exceed-
ingly painful. I had no other medicine. We had
chills and fevers incessantly, but this had become a
part of our daily programme, and we took it as
a matter of course. At evening we sat and
listened, on my part with a new pleasure, to
PLEASANT REUNION. 187
the stories of Baba Tuka's campaign in Mexico,
and scenes in his short Parisian hfe — scenes ttat
carried me back to the world, which the few
past months in their record of misery and suffer-
ing seemed to have removed long ages from me.
CHAPTER XV.
Short stay at Foueira — I charge Keba Rega with the Attack at
Mrooli — Suleiman, now Ambassador, replies — Wat-el-Mek
— The Siave-Trade — My Men improve in Health at
Foueira — My Wound slowly heals — Suicide of aMtongoli
from jealousy — Negro honour — Capture of a huge Boa —
Selim and Suleiman, my Sais, with the four disobedient
Mtongoli, arrive in Camp — Punishment of Selim for not
obeying orders— The Mtongoli appealing to me, I write to
M'Tse on their behalf — Messenger from Fatiko — Unable
to receive assistance from the garrison I prepare to leave
Foueira,
From the 20tli of August to the 13th of September,
the period of my stay at the camp at Foueira, I
never ceased to hope that I might receive such
assistance, as would enable me to add to my list
of discoveries, in the solution of the still un-
solved Albert Nyanza problem. I proposed taking
two light Ugunda boats, in which I had come
from Urondogani, and lifting them over falls and
rapids thus gain Grondokoro. No such assistance
arrived; for during the rainy season the Negroes will
not brave the dangerous jungle, nor the' yet more
fatal rains. On the 24th I addressed a communi-
cation to Keba Rega at Masindi, asking an explana-
I ADDRESS KEBA REGA. 189
tion o£ the preconcerted attack made upon me by
his General-in-chief and 500 men, at Mrooh. To
this no reply was vouchsafed ; though at the end
of three weeks I received a letter from Suleiman,
now regularly installed as resident ambassador at
the palace of Keba E,ega. He made a rambling
incoherent response, that only confirmed me in
my suspicions that he knew more of the affair than
he would divulge ; in acting against me, he was
but proving his hostility to the Egyptian Govern-
ment, and his sympathy with Keba Rega, the old
ally of Abou Saoud.
A sketch of my life at Foueira may not be
without interest to the reader ; though devoid of
much of the stu'ring incident of travel.
Wat-el-Mek was still here, living a life of idle-
ness and perpetually drunk. Like Othello, " his
occupation was gone;" for the occupation of the
country as far as this post by the Egyptian troops,
had broken up the alliance between these Dongo-
lowee chiefs and the " Sheiks " of tribes, in negro
hunting. The regular troops were looked upon
as the protectors of the people ; and there was a
consequent ill-feeling existing upon the part of
the Dongolowee toward the Government soldiers ;
the former till now being paid for their ser-
vice in ivory hunting, in slaves. The Govern-
ment paid them in money. Here there was a
great step forward, if not a practical suppression
of the slave-trade by these military posts. This
fact is cited to refute letters that I have seen.
190 CENTEA.L ArETCA.
composed with the intention of deceiving and
misleading those who in a true spirit of philan-
thropy desire the cessation of the slave-trade.
I repeat, in the interests of truth and justice, that
here as at every other military post, a slave has
only to seek protection or freedom and it is
granted him : stringent orders having been issued
to that effect by the government of his Highness
the Khedive.
Foueira is a military post composed of straw
huts : but the daily routine of service, as at a
regular garrison, is punctually observed by its
excellent commander, the Adjutant-Major Baba
Tuka. The collection of huts assigned me
looked out upon the river from the high bank :
whilst a desperate but unsuccessful attempt at a
garden ran along the outer palisade on the bank,
where every day I went to watch the growth of
radishes that would not mature, but made a most
excellent and greatly appreciated salad. My food
now consisted of goats' meat sent me by Rionga,
fried " dourah " and sweet potatoes, the perpetual
ration of the Soudan soldier. My men soon
showed evidence of recuperation upon this regime :
but with me there was but little abatement to the
fever and diarrhoea with which I had been now for
months a sufferer, having no medicine whatever.
I resorted, as often before, to chewing bitter leaves
and roots, in the vain hope of coming across some
tonic or astringent.
MY WOUND SLOWLY HEALS. 191
At niglifc, whenever the weather permitted, the
Commander caused the soldiers to assemble their
" bints," and very often Rionga assisted with his
Abides, for a dance. This was a joyous occasion,
the music, and the peculiar step of the soldier,
mostly recruited from the Dinka tribes, was a
source of infinite amusement and forgetfulness to
me. A clear night there came to be looked for as
my "benefit night;" since the kindly Adjutant-
Major never tired of seeking to remove the cloud
of care and pain that overshadowed my face.
My wound gave me great pain, and more than
once I despaired of reducing the inflammation
and profuse suppuration, that yielded only weeks
later to cold applications.
During the day, when not in company with the
ofiicers, listening to their oft repeated stories of
their Mexican campaign, upon which they loved
to dwell, I sat alone and pensive under the
shade of the banana-trees that lined the back
of the hut, and watched the detached papyrus
isles and Pistia Stratiotes that floated down,
coming from Lake Ibrahim, and were carried
over Karuma Falls, the murmur of whose falling
waters could be plainly heard scarce two hours
away.
The Riongi, Unyori, and Ugundi, as before
remarked, speak a common language. The two
former are much darker in complexion than the
Ugundi, whose mixed Arab or Indian blood is but
192 CENTRAL AFEICA.
too apparent in tlieir tint. The rule of Rionga is
tempered by justice and mildness; wMlst Keba
Rega, cruel and ferocious, is ever creating fetiches,
suggested by his ignorance and caprice. These
people, like the Ugunda, manufacture very hand-
some vases of glazed earth.
One night, when a fearful storm had just passed
over the camp, I went to the door of my hut to
peer out, and heard the report of a gun. Hoping
that it might be the delinquent Selim with my
horse, I sent Said to inquire about it. A
Mtongoli, sent several months before by Keba
Rega as a resident ambassador and means of
communication with camp, had shot himself with
the gun of one of the Dongolowee — irregular
soldiers in whose camp he resided. "Mirabile
dictu ! " here, indeed, was a curious case. A
second Othello, who jealous and suspicious of his
Desdemona's virtue, had quarrelled with his sus-
pected ofl&cer that day, and had killed himself at
night. An exceptional case certainly in all negro
history, since with all the virtues attributed to
him, he has never been endowed with those tender
susceptibilities, that indicate a sense of wounded
and outraged honour.
On the 13th of September, whilst seated in my
accustomed place under a tree, I was surprised
to see Wat-el-Mek, with ten of his men, with
difficulty dragging something that seemed to me
the body of a tree. To my astonishment it proved
« '
lllilw^^-""-' lilJfciillM^^^^^^ '
CAPTURE OF A BOA. 193
to be a huge boa-constrictor tb.ey had just killed
behind my hut, and which they had brought to
me as a surprise. A female, it measured thirty
feet in length, and in diameter was the size of
a child. Baba Tuka had frequently told me that
a huge monster came nightly to suck the cows
penned very near my hut ; but incredulous, I
had registered it as a wonderful " snake story,"
become a proverb born of the horror that the ser-
pent always inspires. Only the preceding night,
however, my men seated around the fire in the hut
adjoining mine, had precipitately fled in terror at
the appearance of a huge head that looked at
them from an interstice in the grass wall ; whilst
at their feet countless small serpents glided
about. The cause was now apparent ; the eggs
of the boa had been laid unpeixeived on the outer
wall of the hut, and hatching : had invaded the hut
at a moment when the female came from the river.
A strict, and somewhat nervous watch was kept
that night, without result : but on this morning
whilst leaving the river, evidently in search of her
young, she had been shot by "Wat-el-Mek. The
huge monster writhed still with life that it seemed
almost impossible to extinguish, though the head
and back were crushed in several places. I
confess that every night thereafter, on retiring to
my bed, I felt a strange sensation of horror,
as I thought of the possibility of my being
'* Laocooned " ere morning. The lowlands of
194 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Unyoro are fiill of these reptiles, as well as the
low wilderness, that stretches before the sight in a
sea of jungle grass on the opposite side of the
river.
The most wonderful stories are told of men
incautiously sleeping with their legs uncrossed,
who are swallowed by these monsters.
On the 13th, Selim and Suleiman arrived in
camp : the former with my horse and donkeys,
and accompanied by four Mtongoli, the same who
thirty-five days before had basely deserted me.
It seemed that, fearful of going to Mrooli, they
had encamped in a plantain grove ; and during
the thirty-five days that intervened, they had
made good cheer of the forty head of cattle sent
me in good faith by M'Tse. Twelve head of cattle
were brought in however : a timely arrival, for
the garrison here had no meat. Suleiman, my
Sais, whom I have before mentioned as recovered,
who had gone south in the hope of reaching me at
M'Tse, had met on the road these men, and learn-
ing from them that I had gone by the river,
absolutely drove them all forward, otherwise
they would never have reached camp. As a
punishment of disobedience of my orders that
had nearly cost us our lives by starvation, and
the battle of Mrooli; I decided to make an
example of Selim : and accordingly fifty coorbatch
(stripes) were vigorously applied to him, by Sai'd
and Abd-el-Rahman.
MESSENGEE FEOM m'tS^. 195
The Mtongoli, now came forward, and falling
prostrate, yanzigged energetically, that I might
write to M'Tse, to save their heads. M'Tse had
heard of their abandonment of me, and had sent,
about the same time as the arrival of Suleiman
in their camp, a soldier named Matinda; with
instructions to make his way to Foueira, and
thence to Gondokoro, to return with a letter
from me as proof of my safe arrival, or "his
head should pay the forfeit." Matinda had
thi'eatened the Mtongoli with his report upon
their misconduct, and they now appealed to me
to save them from certain death. I persisted
in refusing : telling them " you deserve to be
killed." I, however, wrote to M'Tse, asking
that he would not kill them ; and adding that he
would do me a great favour by changing a
custom which by sacrificing his people only weak-
ened his strength, and was not worthy of "so
great a king." The inhumanity of the question
was not alluded to : for I felt that was a point to
be touched upon, when the right to murder was
no longer considered an undisputed " attribute " of
an African king.*
Whilst here a messenger was reported as having
^ The recent visit of Stanley and Linant perhaps proves
that he may have followed my counsel; but it is by no means cer-
tain that this prerogative can be so soon abandoned. Neither
Stanley nor Linant was received with the honours accorded
me.
196 CENTRAL AFRICA.
come, in eager liaste from Fatiko, the next mili-
tary post, with, letters. I sent for him, hoping
that though sick with despair, now at the last
moment I might accomplish a task, that I felt
sure would be acceptable to the Geographical
world. The messenger came ; he had been sent
with letters by the Governor of the post of Fatiko
for the oJBficers of this station. He had been
attacked on the route, wounded twice, and his
companion killed. This was a great disappoint-
ment; and in the anger of the moment I cursed
the fates that seemed to thwart me.
The soldiers of the garrison at Foueira were
suffering from sores made by the poisonous weeds
that infest the country, which in the absence of
treatment had nearly rendered them all invalids ;
the few that were fit for duty were necessary to
the defence of the garrison, that might at
any moment be attacked by Keba Rega, incited
by Suleiman and Wat-el-Mek, to whom all
these difficulties were doubtless due. Baba Tuka
readily assented to my proposition to go to Lake
Albert; but to do so under the circumstances
would have imperilled the garrison, and caused
its probable loss. I therefore decided, though
with great regret, to turn my steps northward,
through the wilderness and jungle-road, notwith-
standing the protest of Baba Tuka. To remain
longer in this place, I felt was to die of misery and
inaction; besides my men were now sufficiently
PEEPAEE TO LEAVE FOUEIEA. 197
convalescent to accompany me. Rionga was ap-
pealed to, and promised me an escort on the
morrow; whilst several packages of sweet potatoes
and bananas were nicely packed in banana leaves
for the route to Fatiko. All was bustle and con-
fusion at night, and until a late hour, the officers
and men, with kindly affection, begged me to
remain with them until the end of the rainy season.
I regretted leaving them, but I knew that if I
lingered until the rainy season had finished, I
should never cross any river, but that mystic one
that separates us from the " Unknown Land."
CHAPTER XVI.
1 bid farewell to Foueira and Baba Tuka — Crossing the river
we march through the jungle — Arrive at Fatiko — Re-
ceive a warm welcome — Kindness of Adjutant-Major
Abdallah — Visited by the Sheiks — Character of the Fatiki
— I am attacked with Fever and Delirium — Receiving
an escort and convoy for ivory, I leave Fatiko — Old
Bakhite — Cross the Hor-el-Asua — Laughable Scene —
Unmolested by the Mogi — Cross the Hor-el-Ramle —
Regaf — Tiib Agha, the Commandant, tells me the vague
Rumours that preceded us — Arriving at Gondokoro,
welcomed by the Governor General and Abou SaoM —
Death of M. Auguste Linant.
On the 15th of September the Abide escort and
a detail of soldiers being ready, I left Foueira,
descending the river to Kariima Falls, where the
high banks on either side made an easy landing ;
whilst opposite Foueira the low lands were
marshy and overflowed.
I remained with Baba Tuka until all had been
passed over with the exception of " TJgunda,"
whose transit across opposite Foueira in going
southward, had caused me great trouble and
uneasiness ; but now companion of my travels for
many months, there was a tie between us that
MAECH THROUGH THE JUNGLE. 199
might be seen in his obedience ; for at the mere
wave of my hand, and ere I could anticipate it,
he leaped into the dug-out with a shock that
came near capsizing it. The transit was made in
perfect safety, and once on the bank the bugle
sounded "forward !" I embraced Baba Tuka, to
whom I had become greatly attached, and plunged
into the jungle, whose morass and miasma were
now augmented by the deluge of rains that had
fallen since the month of May, when I had passed
through it. The jungle-grass, wet and sodded,
formed a net-work at times across the path,
through which we could only make our way by
cutting through it with bayonet and knife. The
rain fell incessantly in torrents, and the wild un-
inhabited jungle of more than one hundred rniles,
was thus rendered almost impassable. Though sick
and feeble, the energy that hope kindled, caused
me to tax the marching qualities and endurance
of my men to the very utmost. From six o'clock
in the morning until six at night became our
day's work ; urging my men to this by the pro-
mise of better days at Fatiko. I knew it to be a
race for life : and I felt a sort of mad pleasure in
breaking through this jungle, or wading to my
waist in mud, when my horse was no longer
able to carry me over it. From time to time the
monotony of the route was varied by the rush
and trumpeting of a herd of elephants across our
path, at which we got uncertain shots, or the mad-
200 , CENTRAL AFRICA.
dened roar of a startled buffalo. The country was
full of game, but my thouglits and objects were else-
where; even had I had the strength to pursue them.
On the morning of the 20th at midday, we left
the jungle, and reached the high plateau that
leads into Fatiko. The day was clear and brilliant,
though the sun was excessively hot. The soldier
Matinda, whom I could not persuade to leave me,
though I offered to give him the letter that M'Tse
required, accompanied us. "We stopped on a high
ridge of rocks, in order that my men might change
their dress and make a respectable appearance ;
after which we marched into the garrison, where
we were received with the usual honours by the
troops. Our arrival was greeted with enthu-
siasm, and Said and Abd-el-Rahman recounted
in their own graphic way the scenes of triumph,
and scenes of pain that had marked the interval
of our absence. My friend the Adjutant-Major
had built expressly for me a splendid " tokel," that
contained many of the comforts of a house, being
neatly plastered inside and out, and possessing
windows that admitted light. The tokels to
which I had been condemned were like dungeons;
whilst the grass with which they were covered
was simply a hiding-place for lizards, scorpions,
and the white ants, that devoured everything that
came within their reach, even the tokel itself.
Ensconced in the tokel assigned me in the
centre of the garrison, I received the officers who
KINDNESS OP ADJUTANT-MAJOE ABDALLAH. 201
came to visit me. My changed appearance, as
heretofore described, from wound and famine,
occasioned much comment, and served to cor-
roborate what Said and Abd-el had already related
through the camp. My costume in Central
Africa had been habitually closely-fitting red
pants, and white flannel jacket, with tarbouche
and " coufiah " (large Turkish silk handker-
chief) as a protection against the sun, and high
cowhide boots and spurs. During the day I
took off the flannel jacket. My pantaloons were
confined at the waist by a wide silk sash.
I was now dressed, however, in my full uni-
form, resembling that of the Chasseurs d'Afrique ;
but these were becoming sadly dilapidated.
New and untarnished, however, in my dchiU
at Ugunda they had served me well ; for
the bright red and gold cord gave me great
credit, not alone with the puissant M'Tse, but
with the hareem, who always remained faithful
to the " Mbuguru," and who constantly begged
that I might visit them.
The kindly commander, Adjutant-Major Ab-
dallah, as well as his officers, contributed all in
their power to make us comfortable. Here there
was plenty of meat, and I now had a little rice,
chat was so necessary to my diet, and milk,
though I drank it only after repeated assurance
that it was not prepared as that which Gimmoro
had given me on my previous visit, and of which
202 CENTRAL APKICA.
my taste was yet suspicious. Wat-el- Ajoose, Gim-
moro, and Sholi, Sheiks of Fatiko, came to see
me, and of course brought their wives. These
ladies, in contradistinction to their husbands who
wore skins across their loins, or were dressed in
gowns, (marks of their being government ofl&cials,)
were perfectly nude, with the exception of a few
beads around their necks. Their hair, like that
of the men, was an object of great care. Totally
unprovided with presents now, since I had long
since given all away, I drew some from the maga-
zine and presented them; at which they were
greatly pleased. The Fatiki, of all the negro
tribes I had seen, are the most moral and the most
honest. They were very numerous, and their
well-filled corn-bins attested their frugality and
their industry in the cultivation of " dourah," the
sole product of the soil. Their peculiar yelping
in talking, and their ideas of " Lubari," have
been before adverted to.
The passage of the " Hor-el-Asua" was reported
to me as absolutely impracticable at this season.
I tried by every means to inform myself of the
truth of this: and the Adjutant-Major sent several
of the Fatiko men to the river Asua, to a point
two days to the eastward, to know if the river
was flooded. They returned with the reply that
" it was flooded and impassable."
Irritated and impatient to the last degree, I
endeavoured to convince the ofiicers that by
ATTACKED WITH FEVEK AND DELIRIUM. 203
means of a raft I could effect a passage even
over rapids, that I knew could not be very
dangerous there. The next difficulty was to per-
suade the Fatiki to go, for the Adjutant-Major
desired to profit by my journey in sending for-
ward under my care a large mass of ivory, that
he had collected on government account.
Though Fatiko is situated on a rocky plateau
that commands a view of the country, with Gebel,
Shoua, Fatiko, and Franke close by, it is none the
less unhealthy, as the tainted air from the marshes
bounding it on the south makes it sickly.
Kellerman and Adam were certainly ill, the
former so much so that I feared it would be
impossible for him to accompany us. On the
24th I was seized by a violent access of fever, that
on the 25th culminated in delirium. Returninof to
consciousness after a rush of blood to the brain,
I found myself endeavouring to grope my way
from the hut, nearly blind and black in the face.
For the first time an idea that I might be going
mad forced itself upon me; the very horror of
which, I verily believe, saved me fi'om succumbing
in this way to the daily attacks of jungle fever,
wherein the brain is constantly effected. All my
men were ill with the same disease. My liver had
swollen to an enormous size, and I could no
longer bear the pressure of the band of my dress
around my waist. Without medicine one day, I
sent a soldier to search for some wild red pepper
204 CENTRAL AFEICA.
that I had noticed en route. A macerated appli-
cation of this over the affected part, as a bhster,
induced a lull in the pain and a sound sleep,
to which I had long been a stranger. This was a
happy disco v^ery for me, and I applied it frequently
with great success.
The interval between this and my departure
was employed in rambling around the ridge of
rocks, and visits to the village of Gimmoro near
by. In order to gain strength for the journey I
took short rides on horseback. The rest of the
day I sat solitary and alone, musing upon the
strange and almost unreal scenes through which
as by miracle I had passed ; and wondering if I
should ever meet again with my sympathetic fellow
creatures in civilization.
It was the constant theme of conversation of
the Adjutant-Major that I must await the cessa-
tion of the rain before I could possibly cross the
Asua. I finally told him that I must go, and
the passage of the Asua would be made if it
were necessary to bridge it. Preparations were
then commenced, and finally on the night of the
4th of October it was announced that I might
leave on the morrow. The Fatiki had been ob-
tained as porters for the ivory, at one cow for
each tusk ; and eighty-one tusks were to be sent.
Kellerman, now no longer able to proceed, was
by his own consent committed to the care of the
Adjutant-Major, who was strictly enjoined to take
I LEAVE FATIEO. 205
good care of him. The high jungle-grass through
which we were to make our way precluded the
possibility of carrying him upon a litter. He
was, therefore, to remain and join Wat-el-Mek
and Ibrahim my dragoman, who would pass the
station en route for Gondokoro at the end of the
rainy season. This was done, and both Kellerman
and Ibrahim arrived in apparent good health at
Gondokoro, where I ceased to have the care of
either the one or the other. Mashallah !
Amid the most cordial and friendly expressions
of adieu I quitted Fatiko on the 5th, with 200 miles
of tortuous road to Gondokoro before me. The
garrison of Fatiko, composed of 200 men, was
sheltered from any attack, not alone from its
position in a military point of view, but because
of the entire sympathy of the natives, who
were most friendly to the government troops,
and acknowledged their authority, with pride at
being considered as belonging to " Meri." A
detail of sixty soldiers under command of a
lieutenant, and twenty of the " Hotariah " Don-
golowee employed as irregulars, were to act as
an escort for the eighty-one tusks of ivory that
were to be sent to head-quarters. A guard was
rendered necessary by the hostility of the Mogi
tribe, who had attacked me going southward.
On the night of the 8th, having made a detour
westward towards the river, we arrived at Fagri-
niah, a Dongolowee " Zcriba," now under control
206 CENTRAL AFRICA.
of the Egyptian Government. Here, should it be
deemed necessary, we hoped to get assistance
from " Bakhite," their veteran chief, if the passage
of the river should prove difiBcult. Old Bakhite
was an extraordinary man ; black as ebony, his
little withered frame and pinched features de-
noted his age (he was about seventy-five), and
the hard life that had always been his ; for he had
been born and brought up in the jungles, and
knew every Sheik of the tribes from this point to
Lake Albert. He seemed jealous at my having
gone farther south than he, and absolutely
expressed doubts, that I should have " come all
the way from the great M'Tse, by the river that
here flowed past his camp." The Zeriba of Bak-
hite and his followers (about eighty men) numbered
really, including women and children, several
hundreds. " Eaki " and " merissa " were manu-
factured in large quantities, entirely for home
consumption — if I might infer from the maudlin
condition of all — Bakhite not excepted. He
produced a bottle of " Eaki," a most grateful
present — as I had had nothing whatever of
spirituous drinks since leaving Gondokoro ; and
my weakened and debilitated frame was in sore
need of a stimulant. He told me, that only a
few days before, the machinery of a steamer had
been brought up nearly to Dufle; and it was
intended to place it upon the Albert Nyanza.
On the following morning, amid the unfavour-
CROSS THE HOR-EL-ASUA. 207
able auguries of the camp, I pushed forward
and gained the Hor-el-Asua shortly after sun-
down, having made an extraordinary march of
nine hours and a half through a most terrible
jungle. Spurring my horse forward, I leaped in
haste down the bank, to know if I should have
trouble in its passage. Thank heaven ! I found it
scarcely four feet deep. My men arriving, over-
come with heat and fatigue, now rushed madly
into the stream. We encamped on the bank, and
at daylight on the morning of the 10th we passed
over without accident. I swam Ugunda boldly
across, where he had walked with fear and trem-
bling in the beginning of the expedition. The
women and children of the soldiers, of whom
there is always a goodly train, were carried across
on the heads of the men. The scene was often
ridiculous in the extreme, as one might see a little
tat naked woman, perched frog-like upon the head
or shoulders of her soldier husband.
On the 11th we reached Lahore after fa-
tiguing marches, crossing the Hor-Bari, whose
pebbly bed is filled with mica and iron. The
glitter of the former is like gold; and varied
exclamations of " Dahab ! dahab ! " (gold !) came
from my men, as they dropped their guns and
scrambled for the coveted but deceptive lumps.
On the 12th we passed the Mogi country,
whose open and rolling grass-covered plains
replace the fatiguing jungle through which we
208 CENTEAL AFRICA.
had passed till now. The Mogi gathered in great
numbers on our flank, standing in token of peace-
ful intentions, with the hollow of the right foot
resting upon the left knee, and leaning upon their
lances. The country here is really beautiful, and
cut by streams of rain-water, from which we drink
with almost childish glee. On the night of the
loth we encamped on the banks of the " Hor-el-
Ramle," in the Bilad Nashou. A pelting storm of
rain and sleet obliged the naked porters to seek
shelter in an adjacent Zeriba ; the natives flying
upon our approach, howled and screeched all night,
but did not dare to attack. I called the Sheik to
me in the morning, and made him a present of an
extra shirt that was left me ; and he went off per-
fectly delighted at this unexpected compensation.
On the 16th, after leaving " Gebel-el-Kelb," we
turned north-west, in order to gain the river at
" Gebel-el-Regaf," where the natives told us the
head-quarters had been removed.
We crossed the swolleu stream of the Hor-el-
Ramle by swimming. "Ugunda" was borne down
by the rapid current, but made the opposite bank
safely; and on the night of the 17th we espied
the white tents on the opposite shore. A volley
of musketry and our bugle-calls were heard; but
they replied that they could not come to us (they
had no boat), the river here being very wide and
deep. In reply to my question if the Pacha was
there ? they replied " No." I therefore sent my
AEEIVAL AT GONDOKORO. 209
reports about midnight by an Abide to Gondokoro,
with orders to dehver them at an early hour in the
morning. A night of horrors was passed in the
low marshy ground, where myriads of mosquitoes
rendered sleep impossible.
On the morning of the 18th, the commandant
of the post at Regaf arrived, having procured a
boat. Tiib Agha was gushing in his welcome ; he
told me that I had long since been given over as
dead, but that a vague rumour had come back
with the Abides who had taken up the steamer,
that a white man had come down from the Lake
by the river, but this was regarded as false. He
told me that all the Europeans had died soon
after their arrival, but could not give their names.
Anxious almost to nervousness to get back, I put
my column in motion by land for Gondokoro,
accepting the proffered boat of Tiib Agha ; and
accompanied by Said and Abd-el-Rahman, J
pushed off and down the stream ; arriving at Gon-
dokoro in advance of my men at sunset.
The Governor General received me with the
most flattering expressions; my reports had already
made him acquainted with the results that have
been here detailed, and he frankly said to me,
*' You have done more than any man ever did
here." This simple acknowledgment and appre-
ciation seemed to repay me for the fearful price
my discoveries had cost.
I learned here, with deep regret, the death of
210 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Auguste Linant, in whose appointment to the
expedition I had been chiefly instrumental. Anson
and De Witt were dead. Major Campbell, who
also had arrived during my absence, had been
sent down to Khartoum in an almost dying
condition. The health of the troops was de-
plorable, many of them were dead and dying —
proof positive that Africa, by some decree of
nature, was marked as the exclusive home of the
negro. I had looked forward to finding commu-
nications from home and friends. There were no
letters for me.
Abou Saoud came to see me, and to welcome me
back. From the very great dignity with which he
had been invested on his arrival, he had now fallen
into disgrace.
Once more at Gondokoro, I looked back at the
six months of absence that had been — in the six
hundred miles of jungle going South or returning
by the river — a constant battle with the elements,
storms, wind, and rain ; with African diplomacy,
of which I had more than my share by reason of
my weakness ; with famine and jungle fever, and
battles with fierce and treacherous tribes of sa-
vages: I felt like -^neas of old — ■
" Jactate ab terra, et mare,"
that I had miraculously been saved by a " vi
superi" from a cruej fate that had well-nigh been
the result of my hardihood ; and like him, returned
EEFLECTIONS. 211
to tell my strange story to eager and wondering
ears, though no tender love-stricken Dido was
there to lend her sympathetic ear to the tale of
my wanderings.
Said and Abd-el-Rahman, among their com-
rades, had become the heroes of the hour, and
had been promoted to Sergeants by the kindly
action of the Governor General for their bravery
and devotion ; later yet higher honours awaited
them from the Khedive himself after receiving my
report of their heroism.
CHAPTER XVII.
Interval between the Uganda expedition and the expedition to
Makraka Niam-Niam — Return to Khartoum — Despatches
of the Governor General to his Highness — Reply of his
Highness the Prince Minister of War, Hussein Pacha,
announcing my Nomination as Colonel, and Decoration —
My deplorable State — Convalescence and dinner at Palace
of Djaffer Pacha — Consul General Hanzell — Visit of
Abou Saoud- Return to Lado — Passing exploration of
the Saubat — Preparations for the Expedition to Makraka
Niam-Niam.
On the 20th of October, by advice of the Governor
General, I went on board of the " Bordene,"
that would take me to Khartoum, there to an-^
nounce to the Government the results of my Expe-
dition, whilst at the same time I might be benefited
by the change of air ; for the state of my health
was precarious in the extreme. At five p.m.
of the same day the " Bordene " arrived at
Lado — which had been designated as the future
head - quarters ; since Gondokoro had proved a
grave-yard for the second as well as the first
Expedition. Here I encountered " Gessi," the
confidential polyglot of languages and man-of-all-
PERILOUS POSITION OF OUR STEAMER. 213
work of tlie Governor General, the sole survivor
of all the Europeans who made a part of the
expedition, since onr departure from Cairo, and
my absence in Central Africa. His reception was
of the most enthusiastic and sympathetic cha-
racter. Whilst waiting to " wood up," I listened
with painful interest to details of disease and death
of those who had succumbed to the fatal climate.
About six o'clock on the afternoon of the 24th,
the " Bordene " was suddenly enclosed, as if by
magic, in the fearful embrace of the " sod," the
matted vegetable matter that now barred the way.
The river disappeared, whilst on all sides nothing
was to be seen but a sea of grass. The position
was startling ; not alone that we were walled in
by the mass of floating grass that threatened to
crush the steamer like an egg — but also because
should we be kept long here we could not hope
to escape death from the pestiferous malaria, per-
haps from starvation. On board there were a
number of invalids, Arab soldiers, of whom we
buried every day from six to eight.
The Captain, Abdul Al, overcome with fear,
rushed from the bridge of the steamer, and ap-
proaching me as I left the cabin, cried, " Yeamii
Eh, ye Bey" (What shall I do, 0 Bey) ? " Can you
back her ?" I replied ; and rushing upon the bridge,
I took charge of the steamer, and in a stentorian
voice gave the order to " turn astern ! " Not a
moment was to be lost ; right ahead of me in the
Q
214 CENTRAL AFRICA.
darkening twilight, that exists only a moment
between sundown and night, was a crevasse that
clearly marked the way. " Full speed " was given,
and with every pound of pressure on, the " Bor-
dene" drove ahead into the gutta-percha-like mass.
It yielded, and away we went and cleared the
" sod," that soon would have crushed us in its
fatal embrace. All hands cried " Mashallah "
(thank God) ! with a hearty good will.
A description of these fifteen hundred miles
between Gondokoro and Khartoum has already
been given in preceding chapters. A serpentine
river, filled with crocodile and hippopotami, and
banks covered with negroes of tribes of Kych,
Dinka, Chillouk, whose misery, starvation, and
brute-like appearance is in thorough sympathy
with the interminable marshes. The cow is his
divinity; whilst to the sustenance derived from
the milk (of which the milk makes only a part),
the starving negro has only the uncertain chase
of the hippopotami and crocodile ; the eggs of the
latter being chiefly sought after as the means of
nourishment.
The wood stations on the Bahr-el-Abiad, are
" Bor, Chambe," and the mouth of the Saubat.
These places furnish the sole clumps of trees, that
supply wood for the furnace of the steamers.
The quality of wood is principally soont, whilst
from Bor southward, the wood is almost
entirely ebony ; the transportation of which
THE GUINEA- WORM. 215
miglit be made, as it has been elsewhere profit-
able to the shipper.
The negro employes in the service of these
steamers, in the navigation of the river, are
chiefly " Dinkas," who, though natives, are never-
theless subject to the often fatal attacks of the
guinea- worm ; which if not treated with address
in the extraction, renders the subject an invalid
for life. The worm, embedded in the cuticle,
shows only its head upon the surface. The
sufferer ties this to a piece of wood by means
of a thread, which by being wound slowly every
day, gradually extracts the body of the worm.
Too great a tension, however, may sever the body
from the head; when the patient in many cases
is doomed to great suffering, and oftentimes to
loss of the limb.
The waters of the Bahr-el-Abiad, discoloured
with vegetable matter coming from Lake Ibra-
him, are highly impregnated with animalculas :
and in order to purify it, I have very frequently
caused it to be boiled, whether for internal or
external use.
Flies, ants, and mosquitoes are the natural pests
of Africa. To evade the attacks of the latter,
the negroes have no other defence than to keep
themselves perpetually surrounded by a circle of
fire, on which the dung of the cow is thrown,
thus forming a dense smoke that from its stifling
odour shields from the enemy, while the whole
216 CENTRAL AFEICA.
body is smeared with aslies, and filtli of beasts, of
the most revolting odour.
At the junction of the Saubat the *'Bordene"
arrived on the night of the 27th (midnight) ; here
we found the steamer " Telawaheen," bound
south, having on board Ernest Linant, and two
Enghsh officers. The former was here informed
of the death of his brother Auguste, who had
died of fever one month before at Gondokoro. I
bad on board two dogs that belonged to him.
Ernest begged me to keep them as souvenirs of
his brother. Both "Goorah-Goorah" and "Ticki-
Ticki " accompanied me afterwards on the return
to Lado. The latter died at Makraka, and ivas
eaten by the Niam-Niams.
On the night of the 28th, we arrived at Fashoda,
where we stopped for wood.
Fashoda, has already been casually referred
to ; it may not be amiss, however, to add that it
formerly was used as a penal colony for political
or military offenders. The march of civilization
has now begun to make Fashoda a tolerably
pleasant place of residence ; for here may be seen
the inevitable Greek merchant, who keeps his
" bacal," and wherein may be found canned fruit
and meats, and more than all the much prized
" Raki," and the intolerable " Samian wine," that
I love only in classic song.
Here I observed my whole body had commenced
to swell ; and the same symptoms experienced by
AREIVAL AT KHAETOUM. 217
Adam and Kellerman began to assume in me
alarming proportions — the effect of constant fever
and bad diet.
On leaving Faslioda, the Eeis of the steamer
became particularly drunk, and particularly in-
solent to the captain. The Reis of a boat on the
Nile, I repeat here, is at all times a most important
personage; nowhere is this so true as on the
Bahr-el-Abiad. " Mezouk " was no exception to
this rule; and he now commenced to show his
bad qualities. As he landed the steamer on a
sand-bar, though weak and ill I was called to
the scene, for the captain was utterly powerless
to maintain order : as Mezouk, a swarthy powerful
black, took command, and laughed to derision
the captain and crew. In a moment of passion
I seized him, and held him over the boat's rail,
where on each side might be seen the yawning
jaws of numerous crocodiles, or the roaring
hippopotami, that would soon have made short
work of him. Said and Abd-el-Rahman took him
from me ; and Mezouk went to his post a sobered
and a wiser man.
On the 6th of November the " Bordene" reached
Khartoum. As we steamed up the Bahr-el-Azrak,
and looked upon the gathering crowd upon the
banks, among whom were a great many European
faces, I felt a glow of pleasure and exuberance
of spirits, to which the grave events that had
marked my absence had made me long a stranger.
218 CENTEAL AFRICA.
The transition from benighted Africa to the
threshold of civilization once again, had been a
dream, whose realization I could scarcely believe.
Moored to the quay, I immediately received the
visits of the Consul General of Austria and France,
M. Hanzell, Monseigneur Camboui, the Apostolic
Vicar of the Austrian Mission, M. Giegler of the
Telegraph, and M. Lumbroso of the post, all of
whom extended me their felicitations, and kind
expressions for my safe return.
The telegraph was quickly in requisition, and
on the eve of the Bairam fete, His Highness the
Khedive received despatches from the Governor
General, giving a synopsis of the results of the
expedition, in which he was pleased to use
the most flattering terms in reference to its
success.
Poor Campbell had died here, on his return a
month before from Gondokoro, of typhus fever.
Transferred from the steamer to the Austrian
Mission, he was kindly cared for by Monseigneur
Camboni,. his aids, and the sisters attached to the
institution, who in their merciful dispensations en-
deavoured to alleviate his sufferings. Their tender
care, however, came too late: for he was a doomed
man ere he entered the hospitable gates. A genial
companion and earnest friend, I felt his death
keenly, as well as that of Linant, for they both
had been appointed through my intervention.
The first acknowledgement of my telegram
DECORATED BY THE KHEDIVE. 219
came directly from His Highness the Khedive,
vp-ho thanked me for my services to the country
in the most flattering terms. On the 17th, His
Highness the Prince Minister of War, Hussein
Pacha, telegraphed me as follows : —
" The Khedive confers upon you the grade of
Colonel, and the decoration of the Medjidieh of
the third class, with firman and decree, which
will all be sent by post."
The same despatch asked the name and rank
of the two soldiers who had accompanied me.
Here was a prompt appreciation of my services :
and even my two soldiers were not forgotten, as
was proved by the query.
These and many other telegrams of felicitation
from high functionaries and friends, whilst an
earnest of the appreciation of my work, were
potent agents in the absence of an experienced
physician, in awakening in me new life ; and in
stemming the current of disease, that I believe
sincerely, without the excitement and pleasure
attending this reception would have, as indeed it
threatened, taken a fatal character. I was swollen
to such an extent, that I could not wear •my
ordinary dress ; and my case seemed really hope-
less.
About this time, news was received here of the
capture of Fasha, the capital of Darfour, by
Ismail Pacha Ayoub, the Governor General of the
Province, acting there in conjunction with Zuber
220 CENTEAL AFETCA.
Bey, a former Dongolowee chief. The Sultan had
been killed, and in fact there had been a complete,
and decisive victory.
Khartonm, was illuminated for a period of three
nights, and fetes and festivities were given in
honour of this very important accession to the
territory of Egypt — important, not alone as a
great mine of commerce and wealth, but that it
struck a final blow at the slave-trade, that every-
where else had been checked by the occupation of
the country by the government troops.
I had now commenced to improve in health and
spii'its, under a generous diet. I drank freely of
Bordeaux, and " Burton on Trent," that by chance
had found its way here ; though wines of an in-
ferior quality, and Bass's beer, could be obtained
in any quantity. In fact, in Khartoum almost
anything could be procured, with a slight advance
on prices in Cairo.
On the 19th, I invited the oflScers of the
garrison, the Hokomdar (Governor General) and
the chief functionaries, M. Hanzell and others, to
meet me at dinner at the Palace of Djaffer Pacha,
where I resided, on the opposite bank. Accom-
panied by the post band, the festivities were kept
up until a late hour, when the numerous guests
recrossed the river to their homes. So large a
concourse, in which were a great many Europeans,
was marked as a great event in Khartoum. An
outpost of civilization, I can readily understand
KHARTOUM THE OUTPOST OF CIVILIZATION. 221
that tlie traveller, fresli from Europe, may speak
lightly, even despairingly of the place ; to me
however, escaped as if by a miracle from the
horrors of African life, I welcomed Khartoum as
a perfect El Dorado — its 20,000 people making-
it a city ! Its many shops of " Raki," ale, to-
bacco, clothing, in fact every necessary, took pro-
portions as great, in fancy, as the shops in the
Palais Royal ! its gardens of oranges and citron,
and markets of fruit and vegetables, an Elysian
Field ; its great high banks, lined with the stately
palm, an Italian boulevard; the air that blew
across the desert on the opposite side, a healing
wind that restored me to life — finally, I could not
understand how Khartoum could be termed " the
pest-house of Central Africa."
. His Highness the Khedive of Egypt had given
the most stringent orders for the suppression
of the slave-trade ; and of late years there had
been so great a falling off in consequence, that
slavery was to be seen here in a mild cha-
racter, if indeed it merited at all the name,
since a black held in service was free to go,
on application to the military authority. The
system is there almost patriarchal, and the
ignorant savage becomes a member of a house-
hold, and is civilized to a certain extent under
its influence ; while the tenure of his bondage is
only nominal. The value of labour is scarcely
felt in Khartoum ; and the slavery that existed
222 CENTRAL AFRICA.
there before was never anything but a luxury !
Money having a greater value there to-day, as
competition in trade grows stronger, the desire
for a numerous retinue of servants has decreased ;
and the slave merchant has turned his attention
to other trades.
On the 28th of ISTovember, Abou Saoud had
arrived by nugger from Gondokoro, from whence
he had been sent away in disgrace. Abou, to the
great cost of the Government, had been made to
figure largely in a field where, by reason of his
hostility to the interests of the Government, he
should not have been regarded but with sus-
picion. This hostility may be briefly explained.
As agent of the house of Agad and Co. (and
brother-in-law as well), Abou represented the
interests of that house, in the exploitation of ivory
in the regions of the Bahr-el-Abiad en route from
Gondokoro, his friends Suleiman and Wat-el-Mek
having direct command of the Dongolowee camps
of irregular soldiers before referred to.
" The Expedition for the better government of
the Equatorial Provinces of the Equator " obliged
the Government of Egypt to absorb this " squatter
sovereignty," that was exercised by these men ;
and repress disorder, and disabuse the minds of
these nomads, of their pretended authority, and
ownership of these countries.
It will appear strange that Abou, who had
undoubtedlv been hostile to Sir Samuel Baker,
CHARACTER OP ABOU SAOUD. 223
and necessarily hostile to the interests of the
Government represented by him (involving no
insignificant sum of money), should be made the
basis of animadversion upon that Government,
as will appear in the following quotation from
Sir Samuel Baker : " The last appearance is the
appointment of Abou Saoud to a post in the
present expedition. Thus the great slaver of the
White Nile is rewarded."
His second nomination really was made upon
the 'personal and urgent request of the chief of that
expedition; and Abou was accordingly released
from prison in Cairo, and following the expedition,
had joined it at Gondokoro. Once there, and
clothed with somewhat extravagant authority,
he had very probably, being of a weak and vain
character, given himself a great many airs, and
thus became a source of annoyance to the Governor
General, and he was summarily dismissed. This
seemed the head and front of his offending.
Ofl&cious zealots, on the other hand, have
endeavoured in newspaper correspondence to
make a martyr of Abou — in attacking Sir Samuel
Baker. He is spoken of as "a young man of
noble countenance and race." He has nothing of
these characteristics ; but his face, strongly marked
with sensuality and a sneaking smile, would seem
in a minor degree to represent a mixture of cha-
racter such as might be imagined as the result
of an amalgamation of a " Latter Day Saint "
224 CENTRAL AEEICA.
and a " Fatlier Joseph." There was no doubt in
my mind that he secretly harboured the idea of
exploiting these lands — " Elysian fields " to these
lawless nomads— born in many cases in its
jungles.
Behind Abou were Suleiman and Wat-el-Mek,
his old lieutenants, who, perhaps, whispered inces-
santly in his ear — thus feeding his ambition of
one day being king of Central Africa.
This was my opinion of Abou. In a conver-
sation I asked him very abruptly if he had not
secretly incited Keba Rega to attack me at Mrooli ;
knowing full well the friendship that had existed
between them since the battle of Masindi, where
Sir Samuel had allowed himself to be beguiled
into security by the wily Abou. Of course he
denied this; and entertained me with the most
flattering expressions as to the hazardous enter-
prise I had successfully accomplished. The inter-
view ended, we parted pleasantly, and I saw the
famous Abou no more. My health had now
become much improved, though at times I suf-
fered severely. No letters had reached me from
home, and my anxiety consequent upon this dis-
appointment, added greatly to my physical suffer-
ings. The house that I occupied, on the desert
plain of the opposite shore, was delightfully
situated and healthful. The air blew cold and
refreshing through its corridors, and memory
reverts to-day with pleasure to the hours passed
DEPAETDEE FEOM KHAETOUM. 225
there witli that delicious sense of repose known
only to the convalescent.
The view was really charming; following the
desert, bordered by a bluish veil of haze, the eye
met the Mle below the junction of the Bahr-el-
Abiad and the Bahr-el-Azrak, making its serpen-
tine way northward toward Berber through narrow
mountain gorges. The white line of the Bahr-el-
Abiad, as it ran by with the pure waters of the
Bahr-el-Azrak, on whose grass-covered shores
were great flocks of geese and fowls, and Khar-
toum itself with its tall palms and luxuriant
gardens, looked like some fairy scene, to an
imagination that sighed for the haunts of civiliza-
tion, and from which duty, not enthusias^l, alone
separated me. My term of rest, however, was
drawing to a close. The self-imposed task of
sending reinforcements of troops in the service of
the Equatorial Provinces, had resulted in my hav-
ing authority to choose 450 men, that I proposed to
embark in nuggers filled with " dourah " and tow
them to Gondokoro, with the several steamers at
my disposal, where once returned, I should pro-
bably be called to new fields of adventure and
discovery.
On the 15th of December, all preparations for
departure having been completed, I left Khartoum
on the steamer " Bordene," the nuggers of grain
and soldiers having been put en route several days
before, with a fair wind. They were ordered to
226 CENTEAL AFRICA.
rendezvous at tlie mouth of tlie Saubat, fro.u
whence — the river becoming tortuous — I should
be obhged to take them in tow.
Dr. Ferit, a young medical man (Arab), who
had been in years past on the staff of H. E.
Rachid Pacha, commanding division at Alexan-
dria at the same time as myself, had been assigned
to the expedition during my absence. He had
carefully treated Major Campbell, and would now
return to duty at Gondokoro. He spoke French
fluently, and his genial companionship was always
a source of great pleasure. Poor fellow, I learned
that he, and many other officers, has since died
of fever.
Many persons came to bid us adieu, the greater
number of whom doubtless thouQ^ht me mad to
return when I was as yet far from convalescent.
Confident in my lucky star, I had none of these
feelings. Soon Khartoum was lost to view as we
left the clear blue waters of the Bahr-el-Azrak,
and turned our head southward to stem the swift
discoloured waters of the Bahr-el-Abiad.
On the 22nd we arrived at Fashoda, where we
stopped for wood, attacked incessantly by enor-
mous flies, whose bite is exceedingly painful, no
less than myriads of mosquitoes that are almost
insupportable here, as along the entire distance to
Gondokoro.
The 24th of December we arrived at the junction
of the river Saubat with the Bahi'-el-Abiad, at
THE "FREEDMANS BUREAU. 227
least 500 miles soiitli of Khartoum, tlie point tliat
marks the limit of the Khartoum government,
and from whence begins the government of the
Equatorial Provinces.
Here, on a small area of ground that rises above
the sea of marshes on all sides, is a detachment of
soldiers, whose huts are made of grass and reeds,
of cone-like shape — the common architecture of all
the negroes of Central Africa. This station, in
common with others along the Balir-el-Abiad,
serves as a vedette in the suppression of the slave-
trade, at the same time furnishing wood as fuel
for the passing steamers, the consumption of
which is naturally very great, while the stunted
and uncertain growth found only at rare intervals
will, in the future, augment the difficulties of steam
navigation between the Saubat and Gondokoro.
Here the Dinka and Chillouk of the Bahr-el-
Abiad and the Nouers of the Saubat, " happy
contrabands " and refugees from the slavery and
tyranny of their Sheik, find refuge and protection
by "Meri" (government), who is thus obliged, at
no little expense, to feed in idleness these wretched
starving creatures that an ungracious nature has
so ill provided for, in its denial of home and pro-
perty. The " Freedman's Bureau " at the Saubat,
like the Freedman's Bureau at Washington, pro-
mises to be in the future a source of great expense
to the Government of Egypt when it may become
generally known that they are " emancipated."
228 CENTRAL AFRICA.
In the luxury of idleness there, one may see tlie
Dinka, Chillouk, and Nouers, forgetting their
savage rivalries, engage in dance and song around
the fire at night; their gyrations and contortions
of body keep perfect time to an inimitable melody,
wild and weird, as they move in circle accompanied
by their " bints " in puris naturalibus, for these
people, whether male or female, do not aff"ect any
dress whatever, regarding it as a sign of weakness.
In the flickering torch-light, reflected upon their
black bodies and hideous faces, they look like
demons dancing in some mad bacchanalian scene
in Orcus.
My soldiers had arrived here safely with a fair
wind, and disembarked, waiting to be towed by
the " Bordene," the "Mansourah," and the
" Telawaheen."
The officer commanding the post informed me
that a body of Dongolowee soldiers, in the service
of the station, had been sent to a point far up the
Saubat for the purpose of trading for ivory, and
that, surrounded by the hostile Nouer, they would
either be starved to death or massacred. Leaving
my soldiers for a probable absence of three days,
I made a detail of twenty men and a lieutenant,
and taking in tow a boat loaded with 150 ardebs
of dourah, I caused the " Bordene " to steam up
the Saubat, to their relief. I extract from
my itinerary as follows : —
December 25th. — *' Christmas Day," but what a
CAMP OF THE DONGOLOWEE. 229
cheerless one ! The river on each side presents
the same howling waste as on the Bahr-el-Abiad,
the same flat marshes through which the river
breaks its crooked way, followed by the eye miles
and miles over the pestiferous plain. Here
and there are collections of huts on the banks,
where are assembled the " Nouers," who yell de-
fiance at us as we pass. Dr. Ferit and myself en-
deavour, though the effort is a feeble one, to draw
comfort from the absorption of a decoction, sold as
St. Julian in Khartoum, but which has decidedly
the taste of an inferior quality of black ink.
December 26th. — At mid-day we arrive at the
camp of the Dongolowee, called " Boul-Boul," or
" Manshiah," about 300 miles from the junction
with the Bahr-el-Abiad, a point to which no
explorer had till now reached.
The camp, composed of eighty Dongolowee, had
been seriously menaced by the savages ; but this
timely relief of a large quantity of doui-ah saved
them from starvation ; a seemingly inevitable fate,
since, having no boat, they could not evacuate
their post and return by the river, and they feared
a sortie by land because of the long and difl&cult
road to be traversed to the Saubat junction, and
the countless and fierce "Nouers" that would
render the attempts perilous in the extreme.
Provided with dourah and a boat, they assured
me of their perfect capability to hold the place, or
to return if they could not succeed in establishinff
230 CENTRAL AFRICA.
friendly relations. In order to aid tliem in tlie
latter I made overtures to the hostile chief, and
succeeded in establishing a quasi treaty of peace,
by some slight presents, with a promise of the
much prized red cloth in exchange for ivory.
These people told me of a river coming from
the north and falling into the Saubat, only six
hours away from the direction indicated ; I sup-
posed it to be an effluent of the Bahr-el-Azrak,
and that the Saubat, extending eastward by south,
that it branched into two large streams at a point
thirteen days distant, and that there the Gallas
or " Habisch," as they are termed in common
with the Abyssinians, came to traffic at a village
called Kam-Kom. From the depth of the river I
had no doubt of its perfect navigability, and re-
gretted that the soldiers, whom I had left at the
station, compelled my return, since I could not
leave them long at that unhealthy post; other-
wise, I should have continued a voyage that
promised, under the easiest circumstances, the
probable discovery of its sources, and its proper
relation to the Bahr-el-Abiad. It was, therefore,
with great regret that at midnight of the 27th,
the boat's crew being unable to sleep on account
of the mosquitoes, I ordered steam, and turned
head down stream, running with the curi-ent at
the rate of fifteen knots per hour, reaching the
Saubat station on the evening of the 28th. The
Sheik of the Dongolowees returned with me
PESTILENTIAL EANKS OF THE EAHR-EL-ABIAD. 231
in order to procure tlie articles I had promised for
the exploitation of the ivory of those regions.
Inhabiting the country since childhood, he told
me of a route a few miles from the Saubat junction
that, during the dry season, could be, and had
been traversed habitually as far as Bor and Gondo-
koro, but that during the rainy season the road
was impassable. A knowledge of this would doubt-
less have saved Sir Samuel Baker the disastrous
delay at his camp at Tewficky^h, in April, 1870,
where, oTaliged to desist from the attempt to re-
move the sod in the Bahr-el-Abiad that barred
his passage southward, he encamped on the
banks of that river, whose pestilential marshes
made sad havoc among his numerous personnel
and troops. Solicitous for the health of my Arab
soldiers, to whom this long route had always
proved in previous convoys exceedingly per-
nicious, I lost no time in re-embarking them,
and taking them in tow, proceeded up the Bahr-el-
Abiad toward Gondokoro on the morning of the
29th. Goorah-Goorah and Ticki-Ticki, my two
dogs already referred to, made night hideous
with their piteous howls as they raced and tore up
and down the steamer in frantic, but vain effort?,
to escape the attacks of the mosquitoes that mado
this place a hell on earth, whether for man or
beast. I had arranged a mosquito net to protect
them, but their dogships, as well as myself, broke
from this useless cover; they to rush madly up
232 CENTRAL APEICA.
and down, whilst my only resource was to smoke
incessantly in pacing to and fro, until daylight
brought a cessation of these attacks. I quote
from diary here : —
*' December 31s^. — I had nearly forgotten that
the cycle of time had made its round, and that the
year 1874 would soon pass and go, ' glimmering
through the dream of things that were.' Here,
alone, surrounded by an infecund and terrible
order of nature, a real picture of an imaged Styx,
memory turns as if from some horrid dream, and
projecting itself over these gloomy wastes that
now, at night, are lit up by the fitful flash of
countless fire-flies, into the world beyond where
the season is a joyous one, and picture the fireside
around which family and friends are gathered,
and from which I am going farther still at every
revolution of the wheel that, amid the stillness of
the night, seems to beat a tattoo to all these
memories that are 'sicklied o'er by the pale cast
of thought' as the uncertain future rises before
me."
The 3rd of January, 1875, we arrived at
Chambe, a knoll of wooded land that rises from
the marshes, affording fuel for passing steamers.
A detachment of soldiers were here placed for
cutting this wood, as well as to form a depot for
the ivory that expeditionary bands of Dongo-
lowee might bring from the Niam-Niam and Mon-
butto countries, to which a road had been
THE ZEEIBA ATTACKED BY A LTOX. 233
known to these people in this trade since many
years. One of these corps had just arrived, and
gave me very interesting details of curious tribes
encountered. They had brought with them a
Ticki-Ticki, or Akka girl, of from six to eight
years of age apparently, the general form and
characteristics of a Lilliputian race were to be
seen as in the photograph of a full developed
Akka woman, given in these pages, which I
brought back with me from a subsequent expedi-
tion to Makraka Niam-Niam, and who, as well
as the infant girl, were presented to His Highness
the Khedive.
At midnight of the 4th, whilst still at the
station awaiting the requisite quantity of wood, I
was awakened by a perfect fusillade of arms from
the camp situated close upon the bank to which the
" Bordene " was moored. Hurriedly leaving my
couch in the saloon of the steamer I ran toward
the camp, accompanied by Said and Abd-el-
Rahman, supposing that an attack had been made
by the natives. The officer told me that the
firing was due to the pursuit of a lion that had
scaled the high palisade of grass that surrounded
the Zeriba, and had attacked three negro children
that lay sleeping at the door of a hut, and that,
having bit and lacerated two, he had succeeded in
escaping with the third. Alarmed by the cries of
pain and terror, the soldiers had quickly rallied ;
but were not successful in the rescue on account
234 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
of the darkness, tliat rendered objects but a few
paces distant invisible. In the morning, in
making a detour of the place, I discovered the
mutilated head of the boy who, notwithstanding
the discharge of rifles, had been devoured within
a few paces of the wall : an attack that for
audacity would seem to refute the insinuation of
cowardice, that has been sought to be made
by enthusiastic hunters in detraction of qualities
that are supposed to belong to the " king of
beasts."
On the 5th of January the temperature, till now
excessively hot, changed suddenly, and became
cold to such a degree as to make thick woollen
clothing and overcoats an absolute necessity.
A general idea of the climate from this point
southward may be given, in the statement that
during the day the heat is excessive, and the
nights cool, even cold, if in the rainy season.
The shores of the river as we proceed, and emerge
from its worst marshy part, present at this season
(dry) sufficient firmness to permit their habitation
by great numbers of negroes, who come down
from the interior to spear fish and crocodiles,
which, together with the eggs, form the sole food
of these people in this interval. The rainy
season, however, repels them from the shore, and
they seek higher lands, farther removed ; this
migration is annual.
On the 9th of January we arrived at the station.
THE " SCHIR " TEIBE. 235
'* Bor," a detachment being placed there for the
same purpose as those already mentioned. The
Mudir Wad-el-Nile caused the tribe " Montas,"
speaking the Dinka language, to make a " Ka-
malalah " dance in my honour. Until this
moment I thought that I had seen every curious
fantasiah of the people along the Bahr-el-Abiad ;
but their contortions of figure and eccentric
evolutions certainly claimed precedence over all,
as it excited the greatest mirth to witness their
ridiculous, and — truth to tell — their immodest
postures.
On the 10th we pass the " Schir" tribe, whose
numerous villages and great herds of cattle in the
distance assure us for the first time that there is
" land ahead," for we are emerging from' the
dreary wilderness, through which we have made
our way, into " a land flowing with milk and
honey," by comparison. The Schir speak the
Bari language, and with the exception of some
details in customs are practically an identical
tribe. Secession is a favourite ideal of all
Africans, whilst " a union, a constitution, and an
enforcement of the laws," is perhaps justly feared,
when it might as elsewhere, in more enlightened
states, be prostituted to the interests of a faction,
or in a one-man power — nepotism. This would
surely be the result among the negroes ; for I
could not fail to remark that, in proportion as the
Sheik was weak, his subjects were most happy,
236 CENTRAL AFRICA.
and vice versa ; for I have had occasion to say
before, in that connexion, that " might makes
right," among all these negro tribes. In dis-
unity then there is happiness, if not strength.
The river at this season is difficult of naviga-
tion, and is full of shoals, among which the
steamer is forced to proceed cautiously, often-
times grounding, when the crew, aided by the
friendly negroes, plunge into the water to pusb
lier through at imminent risk of life from the
fatal jaws of the crocodile or the hippopotami,
which, in great numbers are only kept away by
noise and the constant rifle firing.
Here, as in several places along the river,
troops of elephants and buffaloes approach the
bank — the former with stately mien and curious
gaze to regard the steamer, whilst with my Reilly
No. 8, I have planted an explosive shell in their
bodies, with no other result, except in one single
case, than to send the herd with maddened
trumpetting crashing through the jungle-grass
that scarcely hides their fast retreating forms.
On the night of the 10th of January we arrived
at Lado, that bad now grown into a considerable
post ; in fact it was what Gondokoro had been.
The umbrella-like straw roofs of the huts at that
post had been brought down on nuggers, and
Lado, though laid out but with little regard to a
military encampment, was in the future to be the
head-quarters of the Government of th.e Equa-
LADO. 237
torial Provinces, fourteen miles north of Gondo-
koro, and on the opposite side of the river. The
removal had been actuated by the fact that
Gondokoro had proved a cemetery for many of the
expedition, both Europeans and soldiers. The
banks are twelve to fifteen feet above the level of
the river ; but the low opposing bank and marshy
country would seem scarcely to warrant the hope
of any great amelioration in point of health.
But, in all truth, 1500 miles of marsh and fetid
air to the north, and deadly jungles, morasses,
and lakes of decayed vegetable matter to the
south, form a deadly circle which devotes to a
certain fate the white man that no artifice can
surmount. Central Africa is a deadly pestiferous
country, in spite of the " trumbash " to the
contrary by travellers, whose very record of
sufferings long detailed should be sufficient to
contradict effusions as a bid for a sympathy that
they ostensibly ask for a " Paradise Lost " and
the negro. There is a selfishness in all these
misrepresentations that is only too manifest.
Central Africa and the negro are a popular theme ;
"to keep up with the procession," then, is a duty
that is obligatory, even though it be done in direct
opposition to the truth. To speak of Central
Africa as it is, " nothing to extenuate, or aught
set down in malice," is the object of this book.
The Governor General was anxiously awaiting
my return. Mr. Hanzell, the Consul-General of
238 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Austria and of France, liad arrived at Lado in order
to present to the Governor General, M. Marno, an
envoye of tlie Geographical Society of Vienna.
The latter gentleman remained in tlie service of
the expedition but a very short time, the Governor
General having no need of his services. Col. Gor-
don being temporarily absent, Marno accompanied
me in the expedition to Makraka Niam-Niam upon
his most urgent prayer to me, and upon the con-
dition especially imposed and accepted by him of his
being in no official capacity whatever, but solely
as my guest — a responsibility and a kindness that
M. Marno afterwards recognized, as well as the
Geographical Society of Vienna, through M.
Hochstetter,the President, who not alone added his
appreciation of the services I had rendered Marno
personally; but in correcting an error that he (M.
Hochstetter) had made in his speech before the
Geographical Society of Paris. In reply to my re-
clamation he took occasion, in the most courteous
terms, to disclaim any intention of wrong to me,
and to invite me to their Society at Vienna.'
* Congrcs des Sciences Geographiques de Paris. M. le Dr.
Ferdinand Hochstetter, President de la Societe I. R. de
Geographic de Vienne, adresse un document d'oii ressortent
certaines rectifications demandees par M. le Colonel Chaille
Long Bey, au sujet de la maniere dont son role, et celui de M.
Marno au dernier Congres International des Sciences Geo-
graphiques avaient ete apprecie. Cette lettre est accorapagnee
de la copie d'une lettre adresse par la Societe I. R. de
Geographic de Vienne a M. Chaille Long Bey, et qui douue
toute satisfaction a ses reclamations. — Explorateur.
ARRIVAL OF MESSRS. WATSON, CHIPPiffNDALE, ETC. 239
Two Englisli officers, Messrs. "Watson and
Chippendale, had arrived during my absence.
They were to solve the question of the Albert
Nyanza, and were preparing to enter upon their
service ; an enterprise that apparently entailed but
httle hazard, since the Lake was flanked by the
stations at Fatiko and Foueira. The work there-
fore promised speedy success.
Ernest Linant, who had arrived during my
absence, was then at Gebel Kegaf — fifteen miles
south of Gondokoro — from which point he was to
go to M'Tse, accompanied by a picked set of men,
the famous " forty thieves " of Sir Samuel Baker.
Loron, the Sheik of the Bari tribe, and whose
place is at Gondokoro, visited the camp almost
daily, and he and his wives came often to see me.
The great attraction for Loron, was several bottles
of spirits of wine that I had taken from the maga-
zine. One of these, Loron, on a previous visit had
drank in two or three draughts ! and went away
only " half-seas over." His wives with great
bushy caudal appendages as an excuse for cloth-
ing, were always modest, and greatly delighted
with any present, however simple.
The Bari are a tall, well-made tribe, combining
perhaps more treachery and cowardice than any
other ; but having a decided advantage, by reason
of good and productive lands, that serve them as
grazing for their cattle, or for the '" dourah " crop
which they cultivate sufficiently to keep them in
passably good flesh.
240 • CENTRAL AFRICA.
The men go perfectly nude, regarding all dress
as effeminate, and women wear only the bushy
tails before referred to. All hair from head and
body is removed, cleanly shaven, and the whole
skin smeared with an oxide of iron, mixed with
grease. A similar powder is procured from a
tree, that here grows quite large. Every Sheik
may have under his authority for the use of his
people, one or more of these trees, an indis-
pensable cosmetic for the Bari. Armed with
bow and arrows, he bears a striking resem-
blance to the American Indian of the Far West,
whilst the female looks like gutta-percha of an
improved Goodyear's patent. They call each
other " Giglio " (which means friend), and the
language is not unpleasant, and quite eupho-
nious.
On the 16th of January, Wat-el-Mek, with 600
Abides (having with him Kellerman and Ibrahim),
arrived in camp. These 600 men had come from
M'Tse, and from Rionga; having been sent by the
former to assure himself of the road I had opened,
and upon which he promised, and now made good
that promise, to establish couriers, and later, posts
for the greater security of the transport of ivory.
Troops had not yet been sent to punish the de-
feated, but still badly disposed Keba Rega, and
the latter laid in ambush and killed forty of
M'Tse's men.
CAMP INVADED BY ELEPHANTS. 241
Wat-el-Mek, wlio was always in correspt)ndence
with Keba Rega, brought with him a music box,
and a uniform, doubtless thinking them a great
prize. The audacious Keba Rega however had
preferred the request that " the music box might
be mended and returned to him." The camp at
Lado is frequently invaded by troops of elephants,
who, mistaking the accustomed path to the river,
walk leisurely into camp, to find out their error
only amid a shower of balls, that in many cases
have killed them on the spot. Not unfrequently
they had been killed by the six-pounders posted
near the river bank. Certainly a unique case in all
accounts of the hunting of such highly prized game,
and yet it may not appear improbable when it is
understood that the Bari very seldom attacks
him with a lance. The elephant, emboldened by
the comparative peace with the natives, has not
the shyness that he has among those who, if they
do not attack openly with lance, do so covertly,
or by means of holes or traps, that soon causes
the sagacious beast to forsake his accustomed
haunts. The elephant when wounded in the leg
(considered by the natives his most vulnerable
part), will stop, stamp and crush with rage the
maimed member until no longer able to flee. He
is thus easily captured.
Great numbers of lions, leopards, and wild
cats make night hideous around the straw
242 CENTRAL AFRICA.
palisade' that encircles tlie camp, erected with
a view to protection against their audacious
attacks.
My hut was situated on the high bluff that over-
hangs the river, and when night came, my rifle in
hand I beguiled the tedious hours, surrounded by
my faithful friends Said and Abd-el-Rahman, and
the officers of the post, in shooting at hippopotami,
that ramped and roared in the deep black river at
my feet. Their guttural "Ugh ! ugh !" ending in
long roars of defiance as the ball exploded vainly
in their tough hides, made it exciting sport ;
but unless the vital spot above the eye is reached,
even an explosive shell is powerless to kill imme-
diately.
To-day a steamer arrived with mails, bring-
ing the order cited below, which was duly com-
municated to me by the Governor General.
" Minist^re de la Guerre,
" Bureau du chef d'etat major, Caire,
"Le 16 Novembre, 1874.
"M le Lieut.-Colonel Long de I'etat Major-General, en
expedition pres du lac Albert a ete attaque par environ 400
hommes armes ennemis du Khedive ; seul avec deux soldats,
il a repousse les attaques reiteres de cette troupe et il I'a mise
en fuite apres lui avoir tue quatre-vingt-deux hommes. Pour
ce fait d'armes eclatant et pour s'etre acquitte heureusement
malgre de grande difficultes de la mission qui lui etait confiee
an pays d" gunda, Son Altesse le Khedive a bien voulu
uoramer ?.. le Lieut.-Colonel Lcng au grade de Colonel dans
EECEIVE PKOMOTION FROM THE KHEDIVE. 243
le corps d'etat major. Par ordre de S. A. le Prince Ministre
de la Guerre.
"Le chef de I'etat Major-General,
"(Signe) Stone."
Wat-el-Mek told me that Suleiman, in reply to
my letter addressed from Foueira to King Keba
Rega, had withdrawn from there, and had actually
accompanied him as far on the route as Fatiko,
where he proposed remaining until further orders.
He said that Suleiman had become convinced
that some serious affair had taken place, since
Keba Rega very excitedly had shown him a
great number of balls, that he (Suleiman) knew
belonged to my elephant gun, that had been
picked out of the' bodies of his slain, whom
Keba Rega placed at a ridiculously large
number, saying that the man who had done
all that was " Belignan Kebire " (big mountain),
a soubriquet given me by the Riongi, on my
return to Foueira, under circumstances already
related.
The 17th was " Courban Bairam," the second
great annual fete-day in all Egypt. It was
celebrated here by a military review and
parade, whilst I received the officers in the
general divan as the representative of the
Governor General.
On the 26th, the Governor General left for the
Saubat junction on a tour of inspection, the
244 CENTRAL AFRICA.
expeditionary corps having already gone soutli-
ward.
I now turned my attention to preparations for
the expedition to the Makraka Niam-Mam country,
the object of which was to open a road through
the hostile Yanbari tribe that until now had barred
the passage to the Makraka Niam-Niam country,
westward from the Nile. The occupation of which
was not only to exploit its great ivory interests,
but at the same time to affirm the authority of the
Government in its mission of civilization. There
was another consideration ; the health of the
Arab soldiers was precarious in the extreme. I
had chosen 450 stalwart men, when at Khartoum,
from a battalion of 800 meti. They arrived in
good health, but they fell ill in great numbers ; it
was unquestionable, they could not stand the
climate. Extra rations of tea and sugar and other
luxuries were issued to them in vain. The Niam-
Niam country was reputed healthy, and the only
Eldorado of health in all Central Africa ; it was
therefore determined to occupy that country,
with the double purpose of exploitation, and the
re-establishment of the health of the soldiers.
Besides this, I hoped that this expedition, if my
health should be equal to the occasion, might
serve me as a reconnaissance in an expedition I
might undertake later, to open a road through the
Monbutto country, unfolding the mysteries of the
Akkas or Ticki-Ticki, and other strange people.
PEEPAEATIONS. 245
whose existence vaguely signalled by both ancient
and modern travellers, was still left, in a Gulhve-
rian sense, in the realm of fiction ; finally, I hoped
to reach through these mysterious regions — the
Atlantic !
S
CHAPTER XVm.
Departure from Lado — Halt at Laguno — Entertained by the,
Sheik Morbi, who accompanies us — The Makraka Niam-
Niam pictured to the troops as a Mohammedan Paradise
— Excessive heat — Simmim butter — " Striking oil " —
Gebel Meri— Gebel Miah — The dead rider— The Yan-
bari — Fortified Zeribas — Poisoned weapons — Euphorbes
Arborescentes — Give presents to the Sheik of the Yan-
bari — One of my sokliers wounded — Tlie arrow being
poisoned he dies — The " Hor Yeh " — Camp of Latroche
— Settlement of my force in four detachments — Collection
of 300 to 400 young girls — Several of them are married
to the force — Inhabitants slightly AnthropopJiagic — The
Niam-Niam demand revenge on the Yanbari — Start for
Makraka Assariah.
All preparations having been concluded tlie night
previous, I started from Lado on the morning of
the 31st at an early hour, in command of a detach-
ment of Arabs, beside twenty Soudanieh soldiers
attached to me as my personal escort. A few days
before 1 despatched a similar troop, destined for
this service, with orders to proceed slowly and
cautiously, with the object of overtaking them and
forming junction ere they entered the hostile Yan-
bari country, through which we must pass. I was
accompanied by my two soldiers, Said and Abd-
el-Rahman, and, mounted upon a white horse which
HALT AT LAG UNO. 247
was to replace Ugunda, wlio had died at E,egaf
during my absence, and almost immediately after
my departure for Khartoum. M. Marno accom-
panied me as my guest. One hundred and fifty
Abides of the Bari had been engaged at the price
of a cow each to carry the effects of soldiers,
tents, &c. A march of thirteen miles south, in
close proximity to the river, brought us to a point
called " Laguno," on the banks of a river whose
sandy bed, now dry, is called Hor-el- Ramie (Stream
of sand), but which in the rainy season becomes a
deep and surging torrent, as it receives the waters
from surrounding elevations that make their way
from Gebel, Lado, Longy, and Regaf. Our
camping-ground was almost within sight of the de-
serted post at GondokorOjOn the right bank of the
river. Here we bivouacked for the night, and
were hospitably entertained by the Sheik Morbi,
who insisted upon accompanying me on the mor-
row. The season was propitious, and I hoped
to return ere the rains that would commence
in April. It was excessively hot, but I had be-
come so acciistomed to heat, that I scarcely
regarded it. Rain brought misery, suffering, and
fever, and was therefore greatly dreaded, not alone
by soldiers, but by the " Abides."
On the 1st of February, at six o'clock in the
mornmg, we broke camp, leaving the river and
turning towards the Land of Promise — the
Eldorado of my Arab soldiers, whose imagination
had been greatly excited by reports of the negroes.
248 CENTRAL AFRICA.
wlio pictured the Makraka Niam-Niam women as
" houris " in beauty, and the land watered by
silver streams that ran through groves of golden
fruit and whispering myrtles — a Mohammedan's
Paradise. It were well that I had this aid to
the difficult march, for the Arab soldier was weak
and enfeebled, and without this incentive could
scarcely have endured the fatigue and heat, though
the march was carefully made within the limit of
their strength. These apparent illusions were not
all deceptive, for the females came in great num-
bers to fete our arrival, and streams of " laughing
waters " that ran through banana groves, refreshed
our weary limbs, and furnished us bananas for
nourishment.
The road for the first and second day's march
ran through a beautiful rolling park-like country,
dotted here and there by great trees, sugar-loaf in
shape, whose service " Morbi " told me was that a
red powder was made from the bark, resembling
the oxide of iron, both of which mixed with grease,
was the special insignia of the " Bari," who thus
smeared their depilated bodies, and that these
trees belonged only to the Sheik, who alone was
charged with the distribution of the esteemed
unguent. Beneath the grateful shade of these
trees were neat little villages of straw-huts of cir-
cular shape, entrance to which was obtained only
by creeping upon the hands and knees through the
door, which was scarcely large enough to admit the
EXCESSIVE HEAT. 249
body. Well filled corn-bins, raised high upon stakes
of burnt wood, in order to protect from rats or the
still more fatal ravages of the white ant, attested
the inclination to industry, and their superiority
to the negroes along the Bahr-el-Abiad to the
north.
On the 2nd of February, the country changed
to wild jungles, whilst the earth was cracked and
parched, and great fissures made the road not
only difficult but dangerous. The heat was ex-
cessive, and no water was to be found except in
the mud holes that had been dug by elephant and
buffalo, and which were nothing less than cess-
pools or receptacles of the deposit of the beasts.
The revolting taste and odour, however, could not
deter us from drinking to quench thirst or to make
our bread.
Frequent halts were indispensable to repose, not
alone for the soldiers, but the Bari porters. It
was just as I had given the order to halt the
fatigued column, that I noticed not a few porters
as well as soldiers, were struggling under the
weight of huge demi-johns, that upon inspection
proved to be " Simmim " (butter). This rancid,
nauseous fluid is a sine qua non of the Arab cuisine,
whilst it is a highly prized pommade for the co-
quettish naked Soudan girl who oils her head and
body, not alone as embellishment of the former,
but to protect against the rays of the sun that
causes the skin to parch and crack. Great quan-
250 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
titles of this butter had been taken against my
positive orders, adding greatly to the difficulties
of the march, whilst I regarded it as extremely
deleterious to their health. Reserving only suffi-
cient for the route, I caused the demi-johns to be
placed in a row, and broke them with my sword.
The oily matter covered the ground, and the scene
that followed as the Bari Abide with yells and
screams of delight endeavoured to " sop " it up,
was a phase of " striking oil " that could never
have been equalled in " Oil City " in the days of
the petroleum fever of the past.
Resuming the march, we arrived at Hor Bey, a
mountain stream in the rainy season, but now
perfectly dry. For a moment I had grave fears
that water would fail us, but the negroes soon dug
with their hands down into the sandy bed, and
procured excellent water. We bivouacked there
for the nigfht.
On the 3rd of February we resumed march at
six a.m., arriving at " Gebel Meri " at half-past
one p.m. A Sheik came to me and represented
that his brother was chief Sheik of the country,
and that he desired to have his authority recog-
nized as there were other claimants. I accordingly
caused him to be arrayed in a red flannel shirt
and fez, badge of office adopted by the officers at
Gondokoro, in nominating to positions of great
trust those that sought the protection of " Meri" —
the Government. The candidate was followed by
THE DEAD EIDER. 251
a numerous retinue and certainly proved by this
manifestation that lie had a party. I gave him a
paper in Arabic declaring him Sheik-el-Meri, at
which he seemed very proud, as it assured him pro-
tection from tribes who would now fear to attack
him unless prepared to brave " Ali Bey" at Gondo-
koro. Ali Bey was the usual designation of any
white officer in command, and among the Barithe
Governor General bore this title as well as myself.
On the 5th of February, through a jungle and
difficult road, we arrived near the Gebel Miah,
where, as before, we dug for water in the dry
bed of a stream, now our only resource. Whilst
awaiting the arrival of the rear-guard, a soldier,
apparently asleep, his body bent upon the neck
of the donkey on which he was mounted, came
up to where I had thrown myself upon the ground.
Receiving no reply to my hasty exclamation as
the donkey ran over me, I seized the bridle
to remonstrate with the rider. I found him
passed from my orders to a higher commander —
dead. Every effort was made to restore life, and
I made several incisions in the skin, but in vain.
Corporal Ali Galal had been taken ill but a few
moments before, and, unable to proceed, had been
placed upon the donkey. He was buried at sun-
down with military honours in a picturesque spot,
near the base of a chain of mountains, that, hence
running southward, mark once more a lovely
country. Under cover of the quick succeeding
252 CENTRAL AFEICA.
night, our cattle to the number of twelve, frightened
at the rattle of musketry discharged over the dead,
broke from the guards, and were lost in the jungle.
Not far from this spot my dog *' Goorah-Goorah,"
frightened at my attempts to chastise her for at-
tempting to bite a donkey, fled to the jungle, return-
ing to the station at Lado as I afterwards learned,
after an absence of eight days, during which time
she had doubtless been chased by leopards and lions
that abound here in great numbers. Several other
accidents caused the day to be frequently referred
to as a long chapter of accidents, and in my journal
I named it Black Friday.
On the 6th I lost another soldier, who died of
fever. He was buried with mihtary honours.
On the 7th we had reached the confines of the
Yanbari country ; a tribe that had almost entire
possession for many miles of country that once
belonged to more peaceful tribes, that had either
been massacred or driven from the country.
Warlike and cruel, they had thus effectually
barred the passage from the Nile westward,
and though I did not wish to attack them I
felt confident that I should be attacked. I
therefore caused the column to march in double
file, protected by a strong rear-guard, to whom
strict injunctions were given that straggling was
on no account to be permitted. The country had
now become savage in the extreme, penned in by
a chain of abrupt mountains in an amphitheatral
FORTiriED ZERIBAS. 253
form, througli wMcli passed the rocky road, ren-
dered still more difficult by the cane-like grass
that seemed to bar the passage entirely. I threw
forward skirmishers, however, to clear the jungle
that afforded a splendid point of attack for the
natives, whose " Zeribas," half hidden to view,
were to be seen in great numbers. These
" Zeribas," of rude construction of grass, were
surrounded by a palisade of cactus of young
growth that is constantly renewed, and forms
an impenetrable barrier of defence, from its
thorn, that cuts like a knife the nude besieger.
The milky fluid that exudes therefrom forms a
deadly poison, with which the arrows and lance
of the Yanbari are dipped or coated with the
paste that is formed by successive infusions.
The wound is almost certainly fatal, and no
antidote is known to save the victim. This is
the only tribe in Central Africa who thus em-
poison their arms.
This cactus-like tree is simply a development
of the cactus already alluded to. It grows to a
height of at least forty feet, and the diameter of
its trunk about three feet. The trunk, as well as
the branches near it, hardens with age, and has
the appearance of cork, whilst the upper branches
only are parenchymous and covered with thorns.
The negro avoids its shade as baneful, and regards
sleep beneath it as fatal as the "Upas tree." The
fig-tree " Gimmais," common in Egypt, is also to
254
CENTRAL AFRICA.
be seen here, though the, fruit is imperfect. The
dourah raised here is a small bushy grain resem-
bling the broom corn of the Southern States of
America. This is the sole product and food of
the Yanbari, except the uncertain chase of the
elephant. They have large herds of cattle, but
as among other tribes the cow is the household
Penates, and is certainly regarded with that
EtrPHOEBES AEBOBESCKNTES, OP THE TANBARI COtTNTltT.
mysterious reverence already noted as common
to tribes along tlie Bahr-el-Abiad, and is never
made an article of food.
On the night of the 7th we arrived in a more
open country, and bivouacked under an immense
tree. Until now we had been unable to get a
sight of the Yanbari, who invariably fled at our
A STRAGGLER WOUNDED. 255
approacli. At sundown, however, we observed
great numbers collecting on our left. I sent for
Morbi, my Bari guide and dragoman, that he
might go and make overtures to the Sheik, and
assure him of our peaceful intentions. After a
long parley he succeeded in bringing him back.
I gave him several presents, at which he seemed
greatly dehghted. A sudden quick movement on
my part as I arose to light my pipe caused
" Zmlingo " to bolt in flight, bounding over the
cases that lay around the door of my tent, with
the agility of a deer. These people speak the*
Bari language, and differ from them only in that
they do not shave their heads or pommade their
bodies. They are very black in tint. Armed
with bow and arrows that are poisoned as already
stated. They carry as well small wooden arrows,
having four prongs, with which they shoot birds.
So great is their dexterity that the bird finds
itself embraced inextricably by these points, and
thus falls helplessly to the ground.
The 8th we resumed the march at an early
hour. The rear-guard, notwithstanding my re-
peated instructions, permitted one of my Souda-
nieh soldiers, Ismaine Dasha, to stray from the
column, a few moments ere i ordered a halt. At
this moment I heard the report of a gun in the
rear. Quickly remounting, I took my Soudaniehs
with me, and retraced the road at a double quick.
I found this soldier bathed in blood that gushed
256 CENTRAL AFHIOA.
from several fearful gaping wounds made by
lance and by arrows. A cry of rage went up from
my men as we started in pursuit of tlie retreating
negroes tliat could be plainly seen. We sent after
them a volley as tbey disappeared in tlie knotted
jungle. The pursuit was useless. Returning to
the wounded man I applied perchloride of iron and
compresses to his wounds, and so far staunched
the blood as to hope for his recovery. He died,
however, four days afterward, having been carried
on an angareb bed to the station that we reached
on the 10th, where I proposed to halt for several
days.
The column that had been sent on in advance
had doubtless pushed on by reason of scarcity of
water, and having followed faithfully my instruc-
tions, had doubtless arrived ere this at the river
"Yeh." The Yanbari hung around our camp at
night in great numbers, and shot their arrows at
us at random. My tent was perforated with
holes, and their deadly arrows were found sticking
in the walls in the morning. A double cordon of
sentinels and occasional volleys fired into the
thick jungle during the night caused them to
desist from any serious attack.
The cowardly attack upon the soldier Ismaine
Dasha had greatly enraged. his Soudanieh com-
rades, the fellowship of arms being always a very
strong tie of affection among these men. They
therefore begg-ed me to lead them to avenge his
THE " HOE-YEH." 257
probable death, for they claimed that, the arrows
being poisoned, he could not live. This proved
unfortunately too true, for he died on the 12th,
evidently from poison with which the wound had
been inoculated. I promised that on my return
I would punish them severely.
On the 10th at mid- day we arrived on the bank
of the " Hor Yeh," near the friendly Zeribah of
Sheik Latroche. The spot is a most romantic
one, and seems to realize the picture drawn by
those who had told us of the land on whose
borders we had now arrived after eleven days of
painful marches. A shout of enthusiasm burst
from my wearied column as we came in sight of
a broad clear sparkling stream of water, that
with noisy murmur dashed in foam over its rocky
bed. Here was indeed the only approach I had
seen to the " Minnehaha — laughing waters," as
sung by Hiawatha. Whilst awaiting the arrival
of the rear, I plunged into its limpid waters for a
bath.
In response to my bugle-call, the detachment
that had already arrived and quartered with
Latroche, arrived with their officers and Latroche
to greet me. The officers had lost quite a
number of the men on the road from fever, but
their accounts of the co.untry greatly interested
me.
Latroche was one of those veteran ivory -hunters
that years before had reached this country at the
258 CENTEAL AFRICA.
head of a band of Dongolowee. He liad success-
fully exploited ivory among the Makraka Niam-
Niam, had made many successful expeditions far
into the interior, and when ivory had been declared
a government monopoly, he had entered the
government service. His relationship with these
people was of tlie most amicable character.
They needed only the military force that I pro-
posed to leave them as a permanent occupation.
The river Yeh runs north, as far as Chambe,
and there falls into the Bahr-el-Abiad. It is navi-
gable for large boats and nuggers only during the
rainy season. The station of Latroche is only
fifteen minutes distant, situated on a little stream
called " Torah," that joins at this point the river
"Yeh."
This country is bounded north by Eliab; north
and west by Darfour and Dor Bongo and Mon-
butto ; south by Ligo and countries lying west of
Lake Albert; east by Kaliko, Kakoua and the Bahr-
el-Abiad. Rolling and cut bere and there by chains
of mountains, the soil is highly impregnated with
iron, to such a degree, that in many places the
water was scarcely drinkable. I encouraged my
soldiers, however, to use it freely in explaining its
qualities, and soon had the satisfaction of seeing
a very appreciable amelioration of their health, as
well as my own; though, fevers were still con-
sidered, from their frequency, a part of our African
menu of life.
COLLECTION OF YOUNG GIRLS. 259
Profiting by tlie experience of Latroclie, I dis-
posed of my two detacliments in four separate
commands, each under a reliable officer, with
instructions to encourage friendly relations with
the natives, and in all respects to endeavour to
ameliorate their condition.
The camp of Latroche was situated on a hill,
amid a banana grove overlooking the stream
" Torah." Within its grass palisade I soon
learned that there existed an object of attraction
for both officers and soldiers. This I found to be
a collection of from 300 to 400 young girls that
from time to time had been presented to Latroche
by the different Sheiks who had paid him visits,
and had brought them as presents. They com-
prised almost every type of the Niam-Niam
people, and belonged principally to the Makraka,
Mundo, Muro, Kiyeh, Abaker,Monbutto, and others,
who, though speaking totally different idioms,
their countries lay in close proximity. A limited
vocabulary thereof is given in the Appendix.
The girls could not be considered slaves, since
they remained by their own free will. I proposed
to Latroche, however, that I should take posses-
sion of them as refugees, that those who wished to
2*0 mio-ht do so, and those who wished to remain
might choose an officer or soldier as husband.
The proposition was accepted on the part of the
females, and I caused a goodly number to
be distributed to both officers and soldiers.
260 CENTRAL AFEICA.
This was a tappy stroke of diplomacy, for it soon
had the effect of rendering the Arab soldier
happy, who at first looked morose and gloomy
when he learned that his stay in the country was
indefinite. These women were by no means com-
mon-place beauties; copper-coloured, they were
generally short in stature. They had very grace-
ful and compact forms, well developed. Their
coiffure was a real chef d'oeuvre, but beside their
copper ornaments around legs, arms, and neck,
they wore no other article of dress, except a
garland of leaves that served them as a curtain
for modesty in intention, if not in fact !
All of these tribes were robust in form, tall
and warlike. Their anthropophagic qualities are
entirely due to a want of meat. They have no
cattle ; the products of the country are yams,
sugar-cane, and dourah ; whilst the banana, that
in the interior is the principal article of food, is
here replaced by a millet of a very superior
quality, and resembles the grain of wheat. The
soil is highly productive, as shown in the luxuriant
growth of water-melons and vegetables in the
private gardens of the Sheiks.
Having completed my disposition of the troops
that had been sent immediately to their several
stations, I proposed to enlist 600 Abides, to
accompany me back to the Bahr-el-Abiad, as
porters of 600 ivory tusks that the Sheik Latroche
wished me to take. The Niam-Niam, who had
AEEIVAL AT MAKRAKA ASSAEIAH. 261
suffered severely from the incursions of the Yan-
bari, begged that I would permit them to fight
them. In fact they made this a condition of their
return with me, and I was nothing loth to accept
their offer, for the death of Ismaine Dasha since
here, had made me sympathize with his comrades,
who now looked to me for revenge. It was
arranged then that the Niam-Mam should return
with us. " V^e victis ! " for these people, armed
with bouclier and huge knife, were reputed the
most courageous and the most warlike of all the
Africans we had met — at least Said and Abd-el-
Rahman told me so.
On the 15th, accompanied by my Soudanieh
escort, and in company with Latroche, I started
in hght marching order south-westward to another
station called Makraka Assariah. After a march
of four hours we arrived at that station, situated in
a banana grove on the banks of the "Hor Torah."
The soil here, as before noted, is strongly impreg-
nated with iron, and the country rolling and
mountainous.
T
CHAPTER XIX.
Tlie Sheik of Makraka— " Ticki-Ticki," Akka woman-
Interesting interview with her — Hear of a race westward
of Makraka with monstrous ears — The Sheik Parafio —
His numerous wives and chihh-en — Gebel Lingeterre —
, Fadlallali— The "Mittoo" tribe— " Goorah-Goorah," a
present from Fadlallah — Taken ill at Khartoum, I am
compelled to leave her — Anthropophagy, the result of
necessity — The Niam-Niam ant-eaters — Marriage — Night
attack by a Dongolowee — Return to Makraka Assariah —
" Congo " dance — Elephant Hunting — Achmet Agha —
Grand dance — Music — Prepare to return — Enlistment of
Niam-Niam men — Mundo Niam-Niam Boy — Abou Lange,
The Slieik of tlie Makraka Assariah post was an
AfFghanistan, tliat in some way had cast his for-
tune years before with the Dongolowee faction.
His Zeriba, under the order of Latroche, was a
model of cleanliness, and his immense garden of
vegetables, and his banana groves, an evidence of
a greater industry and foresight than I had ever
seen in Central Africa. Achmet Agha was un-
tiring in his efforts to supply my table with
chickens, mutton, and delicious bananas and
water-melons. As this included one of my sta-
tions, the officers and men already arrived, came
" TIOKI-TICKI," AKKA WOMAN. 2C3
to express their thanks, as well as to assure me
of their perfect happiness in remaining. It seemed
that the soldiers had unlimited numbers of wives,
and "up to this time all went " merry as a marriage
bell!" and none had as yet shown a disposition
to jealousy. The Sheik Latroche and Achmet had
in store for me what they knew was a much
coveted prize. I had frequently questioned them
in relation to the Ticki-Ticki, or " Akka " tribes,
to the south-west. What was my surprise and
delight when Achmet Agha announced to me that
he could give me a full-grown woman, and accord-
ingly sent at once for her.
Her appearance struck me with wonder and
astonishment, that could be in nowise trans-
lated by the infant and undeveloped form of
the Ticki-Ticki that I had already seen on the
Bahr-el-Abiad returning from Chambe. Ticki-
Ticki was certainly twenty-five years of age.
Scarcely four feet high, she was nearly as broad.
Her diminutive hands and feet, and well-rounded
limbs, were strangely at variance with the huge
breadth of beam, haunches, and stomach; the eye
large, the nose flat, and the tint a bright copper-
colour. Gazing at me with downcast, half-fearful
look, for I was the first white man she had ever
seen, I asked her, as she spoke Arabic — from
long intercourse with the Dongolowee, by whom
she had been brought from the court of Munza,
King of Monbutto — if she would like to go with me,
264
CENTRAL AFRICA.
she replied, " Yes, but I fear you will eat me ! " For
several days she refused to eat, assigning as a rea-
son that if she became fatter the white man would
undoubtedly eat her — a proof positive that among
' TICKI-TICKI, AKKA "WOMAN.
her people the fat ones were considered a great
gourmandise. Ticki-Ticki was perfectly devoid
of clothing, with the exception of the poignee of
leaves that passed between the thighs, projecting
INTERVIEW WITH HEE. 265
in front and rear, tliat served tlie same office as
the primeval fig-leaf — the sole attempt at covering
of the females here — if I except the ornaments of
brass, copper, and iron, that encase in burnished
coils their legs, arms, and neck. Presented with a
piece of red cloth the little Lillipnt soon lost her
shyness, babbled away, and amused me greatly
with her grimaces, and feats with the diminutive
lance of the Akka, four of which had been given
me by the Dongolowee who had brought her from
the court of the Monbutto king. A few days
after, when perfectly assured that I would not eat
her, she told me that she had been sent to the
court of "Munza," King of the Monbutto, as a
slave, in company with the infant already referred
to, at Chambe ; that^they were separated, and that
she had come from that country in company with
a daughter of Munza, whose name was " Goorah-
Goorah," who was now at one of the stations.
This girl was afterwards given me, and returned
with me, in company with Ticki-Ticki, to whom she
was greatly attached. It will be understood by the
reader that these enrolments of male or female
were entirely voluntary. The non-attachment to
home or place may be explained by the fact that
the people in whose hands she had been for several
years were nomads, and of course she constantly
changed hands. Ticki-Ticki declared that she
had never been a mother, though her huge breasts
would seem to prove the reverse. She told me
2G6 . OENTEAL AFRICA.
that " dongo " was the King of the Ticki-Ticki, a
very numerous tribe, who was tributary to King
Munza, furnishing him with slaves and ivory;
that as a rule her people were much shorter than
she, and that the women always accompanied the
men, whether in attacks upon neighbouring tribes
or in hunting the elephant. Always armed with
the lance in question, living in the high
jungle-grass, they secreted themselves in great
numbers and awaited the approach of a troop
of elephants, that they attacked in swarms, and
transfixed them with their lances. She represented
her people as having much greater strength than
the Dongolowee, or even my black soldiers. In
reply to my question as to why they were anthro-
pophagic, she made me understand that it was
when meat was scarce, or when a change from the
regular banana regime was demanded by nature.
Ticki-Ticki was passionately fond of smoking,
not in the sense of the exhilarating effect of the
weed as known to us, but after the manner com-
mon to all these tribes. A huge bowl is filled
with tobacco and clay, sometimes of a question-
able mixture ; the fumes are inhaled until the
smoker falls stupefied, or deadly sick — this effect
alone being sought for.
I was assured by the Sheik who had presented
me with this strange specimen of the pigmies, that
a few days' journey westward of this race a people
existed whose ears, of almost elephantine proper-
MAKRAKA NIAM-NIAM. • TICKI-TICKI.
MAERAKA NIAM-NIAM.
' TIJE SHEIK PARAFIO. 267
tions, hung nearly to tlieir haunches. — told me
with every expression of sincerity and innu-
merable " Wallais " of attestation. I give it place
here only as a story, as it was told to me to enter
perhaps in the same mythical category of " men
with tails," that until now have persisted in
evading the steps of the traveller in Central Africa,
save those who have yielded to Munchausenism,
in endeavouring to attach the caudal appendage
to the Niam-Niam people.
On the 18th of February, accompanied still by
Latroche, I left this station, at six a.m., to go to
Makraka Kibire, six hours distant, where I had
already established a post. The country pre-
sents the same characteristics, and the people
along the route showed their friendly disposition
by their cheerful salutations. A march of two
hours and a half brought us to a neatly-swept
plateau of nicely-built straw-huts, where the
Sheik Parafio, and his numerous wives and men,
waited to welcome our coming.
The Makraka Niam-Niam Sheik is 2^<^^^ excellence,
the greatest "fat" of all sheiks yet encountered.
His coiffure is an object of the greatest care, and
the most intricate detail of plaits, that in many
cases, notwithstanding the unwilling crispy hair,
is reduced into several long cues that hang down
behind. The moustache and imperial, though not
of luxuriant growth, are waxed in points, that lend
a very distinguished expression to a figure not
268
CENTRAL AFRICA.
unlike that of a cavalier of tlie sixteenth century.
The nose and ears are pierced with a copper ring,
the neck is encased in finely-wrought copper wire,
well burnished, as are the legs and arms. The
loins are covered with a cotton cloth, from which
is suspended a huge knife, which, with the shield is
their common weapon of preference, though the
most beautiful and well-designed lances of copper
PARAFIO AND (SAMPITE) WIFE, SHEIK OF THE NIAM-NIAM.
and steel make also a part of their war equipment.
Their muscular limbs, long bodies, and short legs,
added to their unexampled courage and vigour,
mark them as splendid types of warriors, as I had
ample evidence in a combat with the Yanbari on
my return to the Bahr-el-Abiad.
Their bodies are traversed in fine tattooed lines ;
their teeth filed to a poiut, and of a pearly white-
HIS NUMEROUS WIVES. 2G9
ness. Here, as elsewhere among the tribes at or
near the Equator, both in Central and Oriental
Africa, the negro uses a small piece of wood, with
which he continually rubs his teeth, and thus
secures that whiteness that may be remarked
among the inhabitants of those regions. Parafio
was surrounded by his apparently countless wives,
one of whom I have endeavoured to portray here
as a sample. Copper-coloured like him, or an
approach to that tint, these women are short in
stature, with well-shaped, diminutive hands and
feet. Like the men, their ankles, arms, and neck
are encased in a perfect coat of mail, either of steel or
copper, the rings around the ankles clanking with
great noise as they walk. The head is kept painfully
elevated by the choking necklace, whilst the ears,
nose, and mouth are either brass or iron-clad.
The coiffure, that seems their sole occupation, as
it is performed reciprocally, is fashioned much
after the mode of an Enghsh damsel into a chig-
non behind. With this exception the Niam-Niam
female is entirely " in puris naturalibus," the gar-
land of leaves, already referred to as the dress
{sic) of Ticki-Ticki, being the sole attempt at
covering.
Parafio was very communicative, and as well
as his wives seemed greatly delighted at our visit.
He informed me that he was the father of 250
children! and that 100 of his wives were the
mothers thereof. Involuntarily I exclaimed.
270 CENTRAL AFRICA.
" Augels and ministers of grace defend us "
from tile cliildren ! Here is an individual who
would be a shining light in Utah — a not im-
probable competitor for the honours of Brigham
Young.
Resuming the march, amid the most affectionate
adieus of Parafio's happy family, we arrived after
a march of four hours at my outpost, where I had
already established a detachment.
This post is situated at the base of Gebel
Lingeterre, from which Gebel Baginsi may be
seen — the south-east point of route reached by
the traveller Schweinfurth, coming from the Bahr-
el-Ghazal in company with Hamet, the Dongo-
lowee chief, by whom he had been piloted
throughout his journey. I learned afterward that
both Abou Hamet and Munza, King of Monbutto,
had been killed by their own people, in a drunken
orgy at the latter' s court.
The nature of the soil here was even more
highly impregnated with iron, and the natives
might be seen everywhere smelting the ore, and
working their well-designed and deadly pronged
spears and arrows. Their copper rings and bars,
from which their ornaments were fashioned,
evidently came from Darfour, to which place
there was a road twenty-five days' march dis-
tant, and which was frequently passed over by
the Dongolowee emissaries of Zuber Bey (now
Pacha), who had years before entered the Bongo
ZBEIBA OP TADL ALLAH. 271
and Niam-Niam country in the exploitation of
ivory.
From this point to Lado, the head-quarters of
our Government on the Nile, there was a distance
of 150 miles, which made the road to the interior
much shorter and direct, a consideration that
would be invaluable to the Government, or to the
future explorer. It remained, however, in order
to secure its safe transit, to punish, and if
necessary, to annihilate the Yanbari, that till now
had been the scourge of their fellow-tribes. The
Zeriba, under the command of a tall black named
" Fadlallah," differed in nothing from the incon-
gruous collection of straw huts, within a straw
enclosure, under the general denomination of
Zeriba ; except, perhaps, more motley and varied
types were here assembled, in addition to the Niam-
Niam, Mundo,Muro, Kiyeh, and Abaker, there were
to be seen the " Bongo," the " Monbutto " or
" Goorah-Goorah," and the " Mittoo." The latter
presents the most curious type of all. The upper
lip is elongated to such an extent as to resemble
a shed to the mouth ; whilst in the centre of the
lip thus fearfully and repulsively enlarged, a piece
of ivory is inserted about the size of a Mexican
dollar ! Curious, I asked why this was done,
when Said, who stood by, said, " Ye Bey, fantasiah
betaou," — literally her "fetiche."
Fadlallah, the Sheik, not wishing to be outdone
by Latroche, who had presented me with Ticki-
272 CENTEAL AFlilGA.
Ticki as an " antiqua," called upon me and asked
me if I would accept from him an " antiqua," a
Monbutto or Goorah-Goorah girl. This was the
daughter of Munza, King of Monbutto, before
referred to as having come with Ticki-Ticki ;
they were therefore great friends. Their meeting
was a very joyful one, not unmarked by an ex-
hibition of feeling and grace as they carried both
arms crossed, to cover their faces, and rushing
towards each other, knelt in mutual embrace, ex-
claiming in salutation, in the euphonious language
of the Monbutto, " Ingassy ! " Goorah-Goorah be-
longed to a race which had received the appellation
of Goorah-Goorah, by reason of their pierced ears,
the interior of tbat membrane being cut out with
a knife when young ; whilst a large hole traversed
the exterior part, to admit an iron bar two inches
in length, and one inch in diameter — "fantasiah
betaou." ^
Added to the most delicately-shaped hands
and feet, the colour of her skin — a dark bluish
tinge — rendered her certainly very marked among
the general copper colour of these tribes. She
was taken ill at Khartoum on my return, and un-
able to proceed — to my great regret — I was
obliged to place her in care of an officer's family,
and was thus deprived of the pleasure of pre-
^ I noticed the same custom among several females of the
M'Youah tribe, in my exploration of the river Juba on the
oriental coast of Africa in December, 1875.
ANTHROPOPHAGY. 273
senting her, in company with Ticki-Ticki and
others, as an " antiqua" at Oairo.
In the vicinity of my camp there were signifi-
cant accumulations of human bones and skulls,
memorials of that periodic flow of small-pox,
known among the Arabs as " Geddireh," the
scourge of Central and, indeed, of all Africa, as
the marked and pitted face of the negro on the
east coast will attest its prevalence. Alas, these
bones were significant of still another evil that is
disappearing, and is being now confined to remote
tribes as the influence of the Government is
being felt. Anthropophagy, strange, nay horrible
propensity, is relieved however of much of the
horror that it inspires, when we learn that the
very improvidence of nature has driven these
people to a practice of which I observed an
intuitive shame. There are no cattle in these
anthropophagic regions. Overpowered by other
tribes, and robbed of their herds ; or, more
probable still, that they sicken and die from the
poisonous weeds, the fatal necessity grew into a
habit that now is disappearing. I was assured,
•after careful inquiry, that the slain in battle,
infants or the aged, are devoted to this
use. The hands and feet are considered the
most delicate portions — in fact, a great gour-
mandise.
It is a remarkable fact that the Niam-Niam, as
well as other tribes to whom Anthropophagic pro-
274
CENTEAL AFRICA.
pensities are attributed, whether in the Sandwich
Islands or New Zealand, are inferior in nothing to
tribes that look with horror upon human flesh as an
article of food. The starving, miserable, almost
brute negro along the Bahr-el-Abiad, disdains to
eat human flesh. To supply the want of animal
food, the winged ant that infests the ground in all
Central Africa, is made a great delicacy in a cuisine
almost entirely vegetable. In walking around the
NIAM-NIAM GIELS CATCHING ANTS.
camp I observed the manner of catching them as
here pictured.
Seated around an ant-hole were two very pretty
maidens, who with sticks, beat upon an inverted
gourd " bourmah," in cadenced time to a not un-
musical song, that seduced from its hole the un-
wary ant, who approaching the orifice, was
DONGOLOWEB NIGHT ATTACK. 275
quickly seized, and pushed into a mass of mud to
prevent its escape, there to await a sufficient
number with which to form a repast.
In addition to the remarkable skill of these
people in the manufacture of arms, they fabricate a
cloth of the bark of a wild fig-tree in the same
manner as the Ugunda, the cloth, however, being
of a heavier texture.
A marriage is contracted by the suitor, who
presents to the father of his fiancee a huge knife,
with curiously wrought handle wound with
copper wire. One or more are given in ratio as
the lady may be valued ; whilst the happy suitor of
course is obliged to make the countless rings that
must encircle nose, neck, ear, arms, and legs of his
future spouse.
Many Dongolowee, who had once made a part
of the bands of ivory-hunters for the Khartoum
merchants were here living in idleness, " their occu-
pation gone." The occupation of the country then
by the establishment of a regular military post
could not but replace disorder and give protec-
tion to the negro. These Dongolowee were still
armed, and here as elsewhere they claimed the
country as their own, aud looked with jealous
hatred upon the advent of the Government.
Fully aware of this, I slept with my Reilly elephant
JSTo 8 in a convenient spot near my head ; whilst
my Soudanieh guard, with Said and Abd-el-
E-ahman, were stationed near my door. On the
U
276 CENTRAL APRIOA.
niglit of the 19tli, whilst lying awake, I heard a
stealthy step without, which approached my hut
cautiously. The open door was darkened by a
figure, the shadow of which caused me to spring
to my feet at the same instant that the intruder was
seized by my stalwart guard. Along knife was in
his hand, whose office it was unnecessary to explain.
About the same time, from their Zeriba, several
balls whistled through the top of the hut. The
fellow was kicked out of the camp by several
vigorous applications of army shoes.
On the 21st of February, at an early hour,
having contemplated my disposition of troops, I
returned to "Makraka Assariah," from whence
after a day's stay, I proposed to return to " Mak-
raka Mundo," the station of Latroche, there to make
arrangements for the enlistment of theNiam-Niams,
who were to accompany me back as porters of
ivory.
A march of four hours broug^ht us to the Zeriba
of our friend Parafio, who prevailed upon Latroche
to induce me to remain until the next mornino-. At
night a great " Congo " dance was given in my
honour. The wonderfully quick and graceful
step of the females as they followed their liege
lords in the intricate mazes of a rinof dance, misfht
have caused Terpsichore herself to have cried for
very jealousy. This was but a preface, however,
to a dance to be given me on arriving at the next
station.
ELEPHANT HUNTING. 277
The next morning at six a.m. we bade adieu to
Parafio and his amiable household, and after a
march of two hours and three-quarters, we arrived
back at the station of Makraka Assariah, amidst
a slight rain, where we were received with great
pleasure by the Sheik Achmet Agha. At six a.m.
accompanied by my soldiers, I went and bathed
in the clear waters of the " Hor Torah," near by,
not without risk, however, for even this little
stream is full of crocodiles. The Sheik told me
that a large quantity of ivory had been collected,
and the work of recruiting porters was going
bravely on.
It may not be uninteresting to the reader to
cite here the manner of hunting the elephant, which
are very numerous in this country. Contrary to
the general supposition, the native rarely attacks
the elephant with his lance. Timid and fearful,
the negro will sometimes, with loaded spears,
await the passage of a troop, concealed in the
overspreading branches of some huge tree, and
then let drop upon them the heavy spear, which
sinks deep into the back, inflicting a wound which
if not immediately fatal, renders him so weak by
loss of blood as eventually to fall dead. Another
mode is to dig great trenches, that are co-
vered with leaves and sticks, falling into which
he finds himself a hopeless prisoner, the wary
beast, however, is seldom thus secured.
The tall grass jungle that grows so rapidly in
278 CENTEAL AFRICA.
Central Africa during tte wet season, is the feed-
ing-ground of tlie elephant, whilst at the same
time it is the fatal instrument by which great
numbers are secured. A large area of this grass
is selected bj the Sheik of the villages, and a large
circle is cut around it, separating it by a road or
open space that the fire may be confined only to
the devoted spot. Around this are posted senti-
nels at stated intervals, and within easy communi-
cation, whose duty it is to signal the passage of
the cordon by a troop of not less than forty to
fifty. Any troop less than this number are left un-
disturbed. At a given signal by the Sheik, who has
been notified, fire is simultaneously put to the dry
weeds, and soon the herd is encircled by a wall of fire.
The trumpet of retreat by the sheik elephant
comes too late, as the maddened herd is crushed
and annihilated in frantic eff'orts to escape, or as-
phyxiated by the impenetrable smoke, fall dead,
or an easy prey to the mass of negroes assembled
without. The blackened though uninjured tusks
are given to the Sheiks — the flesh of the elephant
is given to the Abides.
On the night of the 23rd of February, a great
" Congo " was given by the Sheik, who had caused
all the warriors to assemble ; and invitations had
been sent to all the Niam-Niam lasses, who
came even from as far as Parafio, and did honour
to the occasion by brightening up their copper
and iron fastenings, and in putting on fresh fig-
PREPARATIONS TO RETURN. 279
leaves. The loose bands that encased tlieir
ankles, kept perfect time in loud clanking sound
to music really euphonious, and of a symphony,
that my unmusical ear I regret cannot translate
here, evoked from a Sinon-like wooden horse
that was beaten on its sides with drumsticks, or
by parallel banana trees that were traversed by
different-sized pieces of dry wood, upon which
several performers beat successively. This musical
instrument as well as drums and horns, the latter
made of elephants' tusks, were very similar to
those I had seen in Ugunda, which, in addition to
the manufacture of the bark cloth already referred
to, seemed to pdint by reason of customs to a
possible communication with the people of the
Equatorial Nile Basins, though the language has
but little in common.
The Sheik, a robust, powerfully developed man,
led his brave warriors in the dance, holding in his
hand a curiously shaped sword — his insignia of
office, whilst the round little forms of hundreds
of Niam-Niam maidens followed, each with giddy
swiftness as the " cancan " fantasiah became fast
and furious. The festivity continued until the
" wee sma' hours " of the morning.
On the 24th I returned to Makraka Mundo
(station of Latroche), where I proposed to make
with as little delay as possible, my final prepara-
tions for return. Menaced already by an early
rainy season which gave now the usual premonitions
280 CENTRAL APEICA.
in strong winds and occasional hailstorms of a
most violent character, the Sheik told me that
" El Harif " (winter) preceded the rainy season at
Gondokoro by at least a month, commencing there
about the 10th of April and ending the 10th of
October. The difference, however, in latitude
being only about forty minutes south ; it seemed
strange that the rain belt should thus turn Gon-
dokoro on the west, leaving its direct march by
the Bahr-el-Abiad until a month later.
The object of the expedition had now been
successfully accomplished, and its results in the
affirmation and establishment of the authority of
the Government, and in valuable information of the
country and people obtained, was surely a subject
of self- congratulation. One thing alone remained
to do, the punishment of the Yanbari tribe on my
return. My attention then was turned wholly to
enlistment of the Niam-Mam, which was accom-
plished with but little difficulty with the aid of pre-
sents of cotton cloth. The Niam-Niam men are very
fond of a waist cloth, and the distinction of a piece
of European fabric in exchange for their habitual
cloth of bark of tree, was eagerly sought for. I
promised besides to give them meat on the road,
and also when we should get to " Lado " on the
river.
On the night of the 6th of March every prepa-
ration had been completed; we had bound to-
gether with ropes, 600 ivory tusks of all sizes, and
MUNDO NIAM-NIAM BOY.
281
600 Makraka Niam-Niams of the many adjacent
tribes were ready to leave on the morrow. Sheik
Latroche wished to return with me, and would
take his irregular Don -
go] 0 wee ivory-hunt-
erSj fifty in number.
My escort of Souda-
niehs that would re-
turn with me had been
augmented by recruits
to thirty-six, add to
this the inevitable bint
or bints that had vo-
luntarily entered into '
bonds of matrimony,
whether with my sol-
diers or the irregulars,
I was to have in my
column 1375 souls !
A Falstaffian and
Amazonian troop, that
caused me to ask
Latroche how they
should be fed? he
quieted my fears, how-
ever, on this score,
in telling me that the
greater part were the
wives of his Dongolowee men, and that they car-
ried provisions sufficient for the route on the
MUNDO, A NIAM-KIAM BOY OF TWELVE
YEARS.
282 CENTRAL AFEICA.
backs of the cows tliat they had trained as pack
animals.
Several Mam-Niams had volunteered to join
my personal escort, two of whom I brought with
me to Cairo, already illustrated here, as well as a
" Mundo " Niam-Niam boy of twelve years, who
is given likewise from a photograph. With others
they were intended as types, which I hoped to pre-
sent to His Highness in the interest of ethnographic
study, that might perhaps establish, whether by
type or language, that mysterious link in the origin
of the human race, which want of tradition with
the negro has committed to a most impenetrable
mystery.
In addition to these human types, I had with
me as a constant companion of Ticki-Ticki and
Goorah-Goorah, a little monkey (Abou Lange),
whose resemblance to a Lord Dundreary was so
strikingly true that in my mind I determined
that he would be an incontestable link a la Darwin
between the brute and human species. Poor
" Abou Lange " was drowned accidentally on the
Nile, in his frantic efforts to avoid me, and was
thus to my great regret lost to the appreciation of
an Ethnographical Society to which I hoped to send
him.
CHAPTER XX.
Return to Lado — Irregulars advanced to the " Yeh " — Join
them in the morning — Improved health and spirits — The
Yanbari oppose our passage through a defile — -Their com-
plete defeat by the Niam-Niam and my regular force —
Burning of villages — Suspicious fires — Cannibalism of the
Niam-Niam — Imminent peril from a Boa — Snake stories
— Monstrous Flies — Arrival at Lado — Received with
honours by the garrison — Firmans of Sultan Abd-el-Aziz
and his Highness the Khedive conferring on me the Order
of the Medjidieh and the rank of Colonel — With sugges-
tions as to Keba Rega, Rionga, the Dongolowee, &c., I
return to Cairo.
6th March, 1 875. — In order to start at an early hour
in the morning, experience had told me to start
the day before. Accordingly I had ordered the
porters of ivory and the irregulars to proceed the
night before as far as the river *'Yeh," there
encamp, and thus be ready for the morrow's march,
a piece of foresight that prevented what otherwise
would cause me vexatious delay, and, in my irri-
tated state, the emission of a plurality of adjectives,
in which the Arab language is excessively rich.
On the morning of the 7th, accompanied by
Latroche, Said, Abd-el, and my Soudanieh guard,
284 CENTRAL AFEIOA.
we left camp to rejoin the column on the '' Yeh "
that awaited our arrival to resume the march
north-eastward to the Bahr-el-Abiad. A fearful
thunder and rain storm had raged all night, and
to their state of misery I owed an early start.
Though still a victim, as were also my men, to
almost daily attacks of fever, they resembled in
nothing the fearful attacks of the jungle fever to
which I had been a victim during my six months'
absence in the basin of the Nile Sources. I felt a
great amelioration of health, and a corresponding
elevation of spirits, as with eager haste I pressed
on in forced marches to Lado. I longed for repose
— a rest from the incessant tramp, tramp, through
jungle and mud, with all its consequent misery
and suffering, and from the rude shock of com-
panionship with savages and savage nature.
Nearly a year had passed of this fretful war, that
had well-nigh rendered me misanthropic, and at
times almost brutal, in moments of haste and
hatred of those details of travel that necessarily
fell upon me. Lado then was looked forward to
as the "be all and end all" of this, and my
Soudanieh never once murmured at the long
marches I imposed upon them. A tribute I pay
them here with pleasure, adding, that during long
painful campaigns, as with the Arab soldier, I have
never experienced other than the greatest devotion
and discipline when directly under my command.
On the 9th of March, at mid-day, we arrived in
THE YANBAEI OPPOSE OUR PASSAGE. 285
the vicinity of the spot where the soldier Ismaine
Dasha had been brutally set upon and mortally
wounded. His comrades the Soudaniehs were
greatly incensed, but my orders to commit no act
without my knowledge were strictly obeyed. It was
my intention to reach a plateau in the amphitheatre
of mountains before alluded to, and once there
send for the guilty Sheik, and. demand that the
murderer should be surrendered. This step was
however anticipated, for on reaching the narrow
defile — a real Thermopylae pass in the mountains
that gave entrance to the plateau I hoped to gain —
1 found the summit on the right occupied in force
by the Yanbari, who saluted us with defiant yells.
Throwing forward the irregulars under Latroche,
to clear the thick jungle, from the cover of which
the enemy commenced a thick shower of their
poisoned arrows. Their leader, debusque, fell in
our path with a bullet through his brain. Whilst I
commanded the fire upon the overhanging cliff,
aided by the explosive shells from my elephant
gun, and drove them quickly in disorder from their
position ; and we passed the gorge at a double-
quick with our heterogeneous mass of followers
without loss, whilst a desultory fire was being-
maintained as we pushed for the plateau.
The Niam-Niam were ordered to pile up their
ivory, about which I threw a detail from my
Soudanieh as a guard, as well as a cordon of sen-
tinels around the camp, beneath the friendly
286 CENTRAL AFRICA.
shade of a large tree where the non-corabatants
were ordered to assemble. With my Soudanieh
and the irregulars I drove the Yanbari from the
surrounding jungle, whilst the Niam-Niam, eager
for contest, were sent flying into their midst to
engage the enemy hand to hand. I confess that
I never saw a more perfect ideal of the warrior,
not alone in muscular display, but in the bounding
elan with which he flew rather than ran — the right
hand grasping the huge knife, while with the
bouclier pressed closely to his side, he met the
enemy. Covering his body with it with won-
derful quickness from the deadly arrows, that,
his adversary in _vain expended upon the broad
shield, he threw himself upon him and cut or
stabbed the now defenceless " Yanbari " to death.
When the " tide of war " rolled away only the
yells of the combatants might be heard, as the
Yanbari, in full retreat, endeavoured to gain the
mountains in our rear.
My bugler called in vain the *' retreat." When
night came we saw the smoke and flame that seemed
to envelope the whole valley around the plateau
for miles in a cordon of fire ; they returned only
the next day at sundown, having burnt at least
twenty villages, and captured about forty goats.
My soldiers had captured thirteen women and
children. "Morbi" was brought in requisition,
,and explained to the most intelligent-looking of
the lot, who, like the men, looked like savage
CANNIBALISM OF THE NIAM-NIAM. 287
beasts, " that I made war upon them, not alone
because they had murdered my soldier, but that
as they had murdered and massacred the other
tribes, this was to show them that in the future
they should not be permitted to kill without being
killed; that ' Meri' was the Father of all, and as
such desired peace and good will among them."
They were released and told to go and tell the
Sheik what " Ali Bey " had told them.
The Yanbari had received a lesson that insured
for the future an uninterrupted road from the
Bahr-el-Abiad to the territory of the friendly Niam-
Niam. At night, at places without the cordon of
sentinels, fires were burning whose fitful flame
and glare proclaimed the presence of more inflam-
mable matter than wood, even if an odour of
burnt flesh did not indicate it more plainly to the
olfactories. On inquiry I found that my Niam-
Niams had built these fires and were feasting
there. " Horresco referens ! " The meat that I had
promised them was, without doubt, the unlucky
Yanbari " potted " that day. I did not care to
investigate the matter closely, appreciating the
delicacy of their retirement from camp, and as
well feeling here the force of the maxim, that
" where ignorance is bliss 'tis folly to be wise."
We resumed the march. On the following
morning (the 11th) there was a " drowsy stillness "
in the heated atmosphere that was all the more
sensible, since only a few days before the air had
288 CENTRAL AFEICA.
been rent witli wild whoops and yells of a defiant
enemy, to-day not a living soul was to be seen.
The Yanbari had been nearly annihilated.
On the night of the 12th we had reached the
spot where Corporal Ali Galal had died. Here,
as the sun was setting, we bivouacked, tired and
worn-out with a long day's march. Under the
influence of fatigue, this was my almost habitual
moment of repose, for I seldom slept at night.
Owing to an unaccountable restlessness that caused
me to spend the long vigil of the night in smoking
and in thoughts that wandered back over a va-
ried and chequered existence, I had crept away to
a secluded spot, and had fallen asleep near the bank
of a dry stream, when I was suddenly awakened by
the consciousness of the pressure of something
horrible. Was it my good star, or the natural re-
pulsion that had shocked my nerves and saved me
from a Laocoon-like embrace ? At my feet, its
ponderous jaws wet with the fatal horrible saliva,
lay a huge boa ; transfixed to the spot, I called my
soldiers to me, who soon despatched him, and
made a savoury meal of his flesh, whilst the skin
was divided into pieces that were to act as charms
against the devil (?) — a common superstition which
exists among all negro races that even civilization
does not disabuse them of.
Snake stories were rife around the camp-fire at
night. Near my tent-door a veteran Dongolowee
told in exaggerated strain, in the " historic tense "
AERIVAL AT LADO. 289
of liow lie had " seen snakes :" tliat lie had visited
a country where the natives always slept with
their legs crossed, or forming a Y to prevent the
snake from swallowing them ; that a failure to do
so, was to be swallowed and digested ere morning.
Another aspirant for the crown of the marvellous
delivered a story on flies. With reference to the
monster flies described as infesting the Bahr-el-
Abiad in the vicinity of Fashoda, and near the
mouth of the Saubat, the eloquent story-teller said
the flies here were mere Ticki-Tickis in compa-
rison with the " Dibbans " he had seen in a country
— geography of which, however, was not clear
even to him — where the natives used them as a
substitute for horses ! ending the story with a very
emphatic Wallai (by God), in order to " hedge "
the observations of doubt that generally followed
too great a tension of truth, expressed in Souda-
nieh, by " Kaddab Sakit, ye Achoui ! " (A barefaced
lie, 0 my brother !)
Notwithstanding the halt of thirty-six hours in
the Yanbari country we had marched at such a
rate, that on the 14th, in advance of my column,
I arrived at Lado at seven a.m. : and leaving some
at Laguno, the village of " Morbi " the Sheik,
though having marched that day seven hours and
a half, I left again with my escort, favoured by a
bright moonlight, and marched three hours, when
by the darkness and fatigue we. were compelled
to halt and wait the dawn of day. Resuming
X
290 CENTEAL AFRICA.
the march we arrived in camp at the early hour
named.
My arrival had already been announced, and 1
found the garrison of 250 men of all arms paraded
to receive me with all honours, a compliment I
did not appreciate until the affable commandant,
Ah Loutfi Bimbachi, informed me that he had
orders to that effect ; and he insisted, notwith-
standing my soiled and tattered uniform, that I
should appear immediately before the troops.
Accordingly I dismounted, and accompanied
by the Commandant and my old friend Sala
Effendi, the post doctor, who had braved the
rigours of the climate under the two expeditions,
one " among the few survivors " — turned towards
the troop that now presented arms as Com-
mandant Loutfi read the firmans of His High-
ness the Sultan Abd-el-Aziz, and of His Highness
the Khedive Ismail Pacha, conferring upon me
the grade of Colonel and the Cross of the Third
Class of the Medjidieh : conferred upon me for
services indicated in the letter of transmission
from His Highness the Prime Minister of War,
Hussein Pacha, addressed to Colonel Gordon,
C.'B., the Governor General of the Equatorial
Provinces : —
"Le Caire, 7""" Decembre, 1874,
" Ministere de la Guerre,
" Cabinet de Ministre.
" Colonel, — Le Khedive voulant donner a M. le Lieut.-Col.
FIRMANS OF THE SULTAN AND KHEDIVE. 291
Long un temoignage de la satisfaction pour la belle conduite,
le courage et la fermete que cet officier a montre dans les deux
engagements, qui ont eu lieuaMrooli, pres la ligne de I'Equateur,
lui a eonfere le grade de Colonel et la Croix de I'Ordre du
Medjidieh.
" Je vous envoie ci-joint, Colonel, le firman du grade, que
je vous prie de remettre au Colonel Long Bey, en lui adressant
mes felicitations personelles.
" Recevez, Colonel, I'expression de mes meilleur sentiments.
(Signe) "Hussein.
" A Monsieur,
" Monsieur le Colonel Gordon,
" Gouverneur General de I'Equateur."
On the 17tli I went to Gebel Regaf, south of
Gondokoro, in order to present my reports, and
confer with him on many important questions, in
relation to Central Africa and its exploration.
I desired that Keba Rega might be punished as
I before suggested, assured that the speedy re-
establishment of E-ionga as king at Mrooli would
cement the union made with M'Tse, and drive
Keba Eega from the country, thus destroying the
nucleus of slave-trading arrangements through
the Dongolowee, with whom this Keba Rega was
leagued in bitter hostility to the Government.
With a troop of men mounted either on mules or
horses, the country could then easily be subjected,
and the question of the Albert Nyanza readily
solved.
I further desired to return to the Niam-Niam
country with cavalry, (for I had proved how
baseless was the assertion that horses may not
292 CENTEAL AFEICA.
live in Central Africa,) and, striking westward
through the Monbutto and Akka tribes, reach the
Atlantic.
It was resolved finally that I should return to
Cairo, there to recuperate my health, greatly
impaired, recommended by the Governor General
in the most flattering terms, to the command of
an expedition,^ that with a scientific object should
proceed from a point on the Oriental Coast of
Africa, on the Equatorial line, to the Lake Victoria
Nyanza.
Nothing was left me save to extend to the
Governor General my earnest thanks, in return
for his flattering estimate of the work I had
accomplished. Bidding him adieu, to go to
other, perhaps more dangerous fields of service,
I offered him my sincere hopes for his success in
the one object which chiefly engaged his atten-
tion ; namely, the placing (and making a thorough
exploration of that sheet of water) a steamer on
the Lake Albert Nyanza.
1 See Note in Appendix.
CHAPTER XXL
Departure for Cairo — Said and Abd-el-Rahman accompany
me — Arrival at Khartoum — The captive Sultan of Dar-
four — Arrival at Berber — Hamed Halifa — Major Prout —
Cross the Desert on a camel — The Mirage — Korosko —
Assouan — Philae — Meet some European Friends — Siout
— Arrival at Cairo — Receive a Message from His High-
ness the Khedive — Summoned to the Palace, I make my
presents to His Highness, of Ethnological specimens, &c.
— Said and Abd-el-Rahman receive promotion and the
Medjidieh at the Court of His Highness the Khedive —
Inauguration of New Geographical Society at Cairo.
Ojst the night of the 20th of March I returned to
Lado in dahabieh, reaching there at four o'clock
on the morning of the 21st, when having dis-
charged whatever responsibihties that were
attached to me by reason of my ofi&cial position,
I left Lado on the morning of the 22nd for Khar-
toum; the steamer "Tessa," No. 9, , being in
readiness to sail.
Sa'id and Abd-el-E-ahman were to accompany me
to Cairo, for I wished, in addition to the service they
could yet render me, to present them personally
to His Highness the Khedive, as a reward for their
294 CENTRAL AFRICA.
heroic courage and devotion. To tlieir care were
committed two Niam-Niam warriors, who volun-
teered to accompany me ; as also another Niam-
Niam boy, a Ugunda boy, Ticki-Ticki, and Goo-
rah-Goorah. All these were to be given to his
Highness, as I have before stated, in the interest
of ethnographic study : types of races that had
never before been .presented to the civilized world,
certainly never under such good auspices ; since
their history, language, customs, and arms were
illustrated by them, bringing what had been
fiction or romance into the realm of reality.
Without lingering on the route that has been
heretofore explained, it is only necessary to note
that the passage was without incident ; the greater
part of the time I was ill with fever.
On the 7th of April, in the afternoon, we arrived
at Khartoum, sixteen days from Lado, telegraphed
my arrival, and received orders from H. E.
Khairy Pacha to come at once to Cairo via Korosko.
A part of the river between Khartoum and Berber
was unnavigable at this season ; the annual rise
in the Nile would not occur until a month later,
when the influence of the Equatorial rains would
then be felt, I was, therefore, obliged to proceed
to Berber by the tedious " nugger."
Whilst at Khartoum I visited the captive Sultan
of Darfour, Abd-el-Rahmed, the brief successor
of his brother, killed in the decisive battle that
made Darfour a province of Egypt. Though the
present Sultan continued the conflict, soon con-
MAJOR PEOUT. 295
quered, he liad surrendered, and was now on his
way to Cairo, formally to make his submission to
the Khedive. He was stretched on a divan when I
was ushered in. His feet were entirely nude, but
there was a certain savage native dignity that
hedged in the fallen monarch, and became him
well in his fallen fortunes.
Onthel6th of Aprillbad adieu to Messrs. Giegler,
Orlowski, Camboni, and others of the European
colony, as well as to Mohamet and Yusuf Bey
representing the Arab element, and left Khartoum.
Ten days of fretful impatience and discomfort,
and quarrels with Reis, who seemed determined
to irritate me and retard my departure, finally
brought us to Berber. I was compelled to put on
shore ReisMustapha, replacing him by his second in
command, ordering the former, as a punishment,
to walk at least a distance of twenty miles on shore.
Arrived at Berber, I was warmly welcomed by
my old friend the great Sheik of Korosko, Hamed
Halifa. Seated in his garden, beneath the grate-
ful shade of overhanging orange, lemon, and date
trees, I was surprised to hear my name pro-
nounced in much the same way as Stanley ac-
costed Livingstone, "Colonel Long, I believe!" I
started in vain attempt at recognition of a bronzed
and bearded face. It proved to be Major Prout,
the gallant young American officer, whose valu-
able work in Darfour, and Kordofan since that
time, will certainly give him a prominent place
among the explorers of those regions.
296 CENTRAL AFRICA.
Witli the exception of two brief ceremonious visits
made at tlie head-quarters, I had scarcely uttered
a word of the vernacular since my absence from
Cairo. With what importunate eagerness then I
plied him with a thousand questions, of what was
occurring in the world without ; since leaving
Khartoum I had received neither papers nor
letters. Major Prout had arrived at Cairo a few
days before my departure for Central Africa, and
therefore I had known him but slightly. He was
en route to take service in exploration in Darfour.
As I lay upon the grass, in most disreputable
dress that would have well become a rag man,
with haggard features, worn and emaciated by
disease, I fancied that Prout regarded me with
something akin to horror ; for he doubtless remem-
bered me vigorous and muscular, as when I had
left Cairo only fifteen months before. I kept him
until a late hour a victim to incessant questioning.
He proceeded next day on the nugger in which I
had come to Khartoum ; whilst, at the moment I
bade him adieu, I was mounting my camel en route
for Abou-Hamed, from thence to across the " At-
moor *' to Korosko.
Three hundred and fifty miles of desert on
camel-back is at all times a serious enterprise:
and the more so when you are to run against
time, on account of the absolute want of water:
for on the Korosko desert, water must be
cairied in skins from Abou-Hamed, from which
THE MIRAGE. 297
point the route is an arid scorching sandy
waste.
The water taken from the river at Abou-Hamed,
becomes quite putrid, and there is one well only
on the road, the water of which is like Epsom
salts, absolutely undrinkable by man, and rarely
by beast ; unless the direst necessity compels one
to drink the unpalatable and aperient liquid. The
route is marked by countless carcasses of camels,
and the rude grave of his driver.
On this desert not many years ago, a regiment
was passing to Berber. Deceived by the mirage,
on all sides presenting to the eye lakes of trans-
parent water, the men maddened by thirst could
no longer be restrained ; and notwithstanding the
protestations of their guide, broke from their ranks
in eager haste in quest of water, too late to dis-
cover the fatal illusion ; for most of them perished
with thirst. On through horrid heat and blasts
of sand, we pushed our forced march by day;
stopping at sunset to feed camels and men, and
snatch a moment's rest; to resume the march
during the whole night, rendered the more difl&-
cult since the extremely cold temperature induced
sleep, and the struggle to keep awake was painful
in the extreme. We crossed the well-defined bed
of a river, called by the camel drivers, " El Bahr "
(the River). Along its un watered bed, solitary
and dwarfed palms still had a sickly existence,
but there could be no doubt that the Red Sea or
298 OBNTEAL AFHIOA.
an affluent had once trickled through this
channel.
On the 8th May, at seven a.m., we arrived at Ko-'
rosko, having made the transit from Berber, in the
short space of ten days ; averaging at least thirty-
five miles per day. Here was finally the term of
painful marches, and sea of troubles, that had
marked my daily life for many months. My arrival
had been anticipated : and a palatial dahabieh had
been ordered to be in readiness, to convey me to
Assouan. A few hours only were necessary for
the purchase of supplies for the route, and the
reception of the " Mudir " (Governor) and other
functionaries, and we left in the afternoon. The
saloon and divans of the boat were elegant in all
their appointments ; and I felt almost a childish
delight in the pleasure it afforded me to repose
once more upon mattress and sheets, a luxury
which must be dispensed with in Africa, at least
in my experience. A copy of Malte Brun enabled
me to appreciate the historic banks of the Nile,
whose monuments, and sites of dead cities, mark
the mysterious grandeur of ancient Egypt. Eight
days were consumed in the passage to Assouan,
where we arrived on the 16th of May, early in the
morning. Ere the sun had yet risen, I climbed
the steep ascent that led to the Temple at Philae,
that cradle of art, culture, and mystic rites, which
gave to Egypt her mysterious and imperishable
monuments. Here it may be said, as Malte
Brun wrote of Syene and Assouan close by, " Ici
MEET SEVERAL FEIENDS. 299
les Pharaons et les Ptolemees ont eleve ces
temples, et ces palais a moitie caclies sous le sable
mobile; ici les Komains et les Arabes ont bati
ces forts, les murailles, et au-dessus des debris de
toutes ces constructions des inscriptions fran-
gaises attestent que les guerriers et les savants
de r Europe moderne sont venu placer ici leurs
tentes et leurs observatoires. . . . Sur la surface
lisse de ces rocbers des sculptures liieroglypliiques
representent les divinites Egyptiennes, les sacri-
fices et les offrandes de cette nation; qui plus
qu'aucune autre a su s'identifier avec son pays
et qui dans les sens les plus litteral a grave sur le
globe, les souvenirs de sa gloire."
Wliilst musing- bere an hour alone the shrill
a
whistle of a locomotive recalled me from my reve-
ries from the temple of Ibis. The Mudir came to
receive me, and to inform me that the steamer
" Foad " had been awaiting my arrival for several
days, and that if it pleased me the steamer could
proceed at once. Mr. Kilgour, chief engineer to
Mr. Fowler in the construction of the Soudan
Railway, had written me a most kind letter of
welcome from Wady-Halfai, and introduced me at
the same time to several gentlemen of the com-
pany, Mr. Gooding, Mr. Varley (artist), and Mr.
Bake well, who had come down in the train.
Accompanied by my escort, we entered the railway
carriages, which in a few moments took us to
Assouan, and on board the steamer "Foad." In the
interval of getting up steam, I returned to Assouan,
300 CENTRAL AFRICA.
and breakfasted with Mr. Gooding, and in his
genial company relished my return to civilization.
Mr. Bakewell was going to Cairo, so we returned
together on board and steamed towards Siout,
stopping a few hours en route to visit those
temples, palaces, and piles stupendous of Edfou,
Esneh, Louxor, Medinet-el-Abou and Karnak by
moonlight, the Memnonium in all its glory, and
" Memnon's statue that at sunrise played." In
vain we tried to make the latter resound to the
tapping of a hidden minstrel, as even in ancient
days sceptics were wont to accuse Egyptian
priests of jugglery in secretly causing the statue to
resound, by hiding in its hollow side. To visit
these scenes was indeed the realization of many
of my boyish fancies : but could imagination have
conjured up so strange a story, that fate should
direct my steps hither, fresh from the fountains
of the Nile which to the ancient architects of these
monuments had been a problem whose solution
they could never accomplish.
Away ! nor let me loiter here : for the steamer's
whistle recalls us to resume our route, and pro-
ceeding we arrived at Siout the 21st of May,
where we were received by the Wekil of the
Governor. Our baggage and staff were sent to
the railway station — Mr. B. and myself passed
the day in wandering through the streets of Siout,
that ranks, with its well-built houses of brick and
lively bazaars, as an important city of Egypt. The
station master kindly offered us the divan at the
MESSAGE FEOM THE KHEDIVE. 601
station for the night, as Siout does not yet boast
the luxury of a hotel.
The morning of the 22nd we were en route by
the train, arriving at Cairo, the " city of the Victo-
rious," at half-past six p.m.
The following morning, the announcement of
my arrival was made to His Highness the Khedive,
who immediately sent a message, that he would
receive me at the palace of Abdin. On my being
announced and ushered in, he advanced towards
me, and took me by the hand, and in terms too
flattering to repeat thanked me for what I had
accomplished in Central Africa ; not alone for the
establishment of his authority in those regions, but
in a commercial and scientific sense ; and for the
amelioration of the condition and protection pro-
mised to tribes of negroes amicably disposed.
The suppression of the slave-trade, that was
sure to follow the stringent measures which His
Highness had taken, was referred to, and my
action was greeted with the greatest satisfaction,
convincing me how sincerely and ardently the
Khedive hopes for the total extinction of a system
that is no longer a want, or even a luxury (as
it once was) to Egypt.
A few days after I was again summoned to the
presence of the Khedive at the palace of Kasr-el-
Nil, where surrounded by his ministers, high
functionaries of the Court, and officers of the
army and navy, he received me, with renewed
expressions of sympathy and approval. I had
302
CENTRAL AFEICA.
taken tliis occasion to present him a quantity of
arms, and utensils of war and peace, of the tribes
visited southward to the sources of the Nile, and
westward of the river to the Niam-Niam country.
ABD-EL EAHMEN.
SAID BAGAEEAH.
At this time also I presented to him the two Niam-
Niam warriors, a Niam-Niam boy, an Ugunda
boy (M'Tse), and Ticki-Ticki, the dwarf* woman,
portraits of whom have been given in this book
as types of races that cannot fail to be of inte-
NEW GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. 303
rest to ethnograpliers — tlie latter especially so
as the first adult ever presented to the civilized
world from a race vaguely mentioned by Herodotus,
but whose actual existence now was left no longer
in the realm of doubt.
On the 30tli of May His Highness summoned
me again to the palace of Kasr-el-Nil, where were
assembled many high functionaries and officers
of the army and navy ; and my soldiers Said and
Abd-el-Rahman were ordered to accompany me.
In eloquent and moving words the Khedive
alluded in flattering terms to their devotion and
courage, as represented by me, in the affair at
Mrooli, and their subsequent service with me in
the second expedition. As a mark of his favour
he placed in my hand a firman, conferring on them
the grade of Bash-Schouish (Sergeant-Major), with
decorations of the 5th class of the Medjidieh,
that I might attach them to their breasts. For
the first time in the annals of the service, a common
soldier had been decorated ; and the ceremony was
rendered the more significant, "by this prompt
and gracious recognition of merit by the Khe-
dive himself.
If my reception by him had been flattering in
the extreme, it was no less so by the Cairene com-
munity. I had been followed in the jungles of
Africa with an afi'ectionate interest, which on my
return showed itself in demonstrations that at
every step attended me. I was weak, emaciated,
sick in body and spirit, but the consciousness of
304 CENTEAL AFRICA.
sympathy and affection that now surrounded me,
awoke me to a vitality, that months of constant
fever, and the cold companionship of savages, had
nearly stifled and frozen in my breast.
On the 2nd of June the inauguration of La So-
ciete Khediviale de Geographic took place, under
the presidency of Dr. Schweinfurth, the Prus-
sian traveller, who had been nominated to that
position. His Highness Prince Hussein Pacha,
Minister of War, honoured it with his presence,
as did also the high functionaries of the Govern-
ment, the Consuls General, and distinguished
foreign savants. On the 11th of June, in response
to an invitation from the president of the
Society, I delivered an address, giving a resume
of my expedition and its results, which was alluded
to by the French press at Alexandria in a flattering
notice, as will be seen in the extract in the note
below. ^
His Highness the Khedive, with kind conside-
ration for my health, ordered me to go at once to
Europe, there to regain, if possible, strength and
health for other service, that I was assured awaited
me on my return: and I obeyed the kind command.
* " Malgre une chaleur assez intense, un auditoire nombreux
a tenu a venir acclamer I'admirable conduite du jeune et brave
Colonel Long. De chaleureuses applaudissements temqignent
du vif interet que lui inspiraient non seulemeut toutes les peri-
peties imposantes de ce voyage aux Lacs Equatoriaux execute
dans des conditions vraiment etonnantes, mais aussi et surtout
le heros de I'expedition lui-naeme qu'on etait heureux de voir
echappe comme par miracle d'innombrable perils."
CHAPTER XXII.
Results of the Expedition to Ugunda and the Lake Victoria
Nyanza — Also of the Expedition to the Makraka Nlam-
Niana Country — Sir Samuel Baker and the width of the
River at Mrooli — My opinion of the Negro — Mr. Stanley
and the conversion of M'Tse — The Slave-Trade and the
Khedive — Seyyid Burgash and Zanzibar — The opening
np of the Interior by the Soudan Railway and River Com-
munication, the most ellectual means for the regeneration
of Central Africa.
" La verite seule est feconde." — Lamartine.
It is not necessary liere to explain why, nnder
sucli untoward auspices, the Expedition to the
Equator was undertaken with only two soldiers,
as reference has been made thereto in preceding
chapters, to excuse me from an act of pre-
meditated folly or inexcusable hardihood, with
which I might consistently be charged. It would
have been considered madness had the expedi-
tion failed: for it has been well said that " nothing
succeeds like success."
I felt it to be the tide of life, that was to be
Y
•306 CENTRAL AFRICA.
taken at its turn, and upon its full sea I
cast mjself, in order that I might not lose my
opportunity.
It may be well, in conclusion, briefly to sum up
the results obtained by the explorations to the
Lake Victoria Nyanza, and the country Makraka
Niam-Niam, expeditions that had their inception
and accomplishment in the space of twelve
months, with interval of service on the Bahr-el-
Abiad and on the Saubat. Their cost to the
Government were only in the insignificant presents
made to the King and Sheiks of those regions,
whilst valuable cargoes of ivory were in return
brought back, and placed to Government account.
The following results were submitted in sub-
stance to the Government of Egypt, —
1. M'Tse, King of Ugunda, had been visited,
and the proud African monarch made a willing
subject ; and his country, rich in ivory and
populous, created the Southern limit of Egypt.
2. The Lake Victoria Nyanza had been par-
tially explored; not thoroughly, owing to my
helpless and almost dying condition at the time.
3. The Victoria River, leaving the Lake from
Urondogani (from whence Captain Speke had
been driven), had been explored, for the first time,
as far as Karuma Falls ; thus for ever putting
at rest all doubts, and estabhshing the con-
nexion between the Lake Victoria and the Lake
Albert. From Urondoaani to Karuma Falls the
RESULTS OP THE EXPEDITIONS. 307
river was proven to be navigable by steamers of
tlie greatest draught.
4. The discovery, in about Latitude 1° 30'
North, of a Lake since named " Ibrahim," thus
adding another great reservoir to the Sources of
the Nile — a system of basins of which the Lake
Victoria and the Lake Albert were only known
heretofore — the plateau southward acting as a
great water-shed to the almost perpetual equa-
torial rains.
5. The affair at Mrooli — a desperate precon-
certed attack on the part of 500 savages upon two
frail barks containing three combatants, resulting
in the loss to the enemy mentioned in the general
orders already cited.
The results of the Expedition to the Makraka
Niam-Niam country may be summed up as
follows : —
1. Communication had been opened from the
Bahr-el-Abiad " vi et armis " — by punishment
given the Yanbari tribe — to the Niam-Niam coun-
try, rich in ivory, whose inhabitants were friendly
and well disposed towards the Egyptian Govern-
ment.
2. Occupation of that country by the establish-
ment of military posts, which were to serve the
double purpose of acquiring ivory in exchange for
eotton, cloths, &c. ; and at the same time incul-
cating in the native habits of industry, cultivation
of the soil, the raising of cattle (the want of which
308 CENTRAL AFRICA.
has been the chief incentive to Anthropophagy) ;
in fact, working an amelioration in the state of
the negro, gocial, moral, and mental.
3. Extended information, as to the customs,
fabrics, &c., obtained of these people, specimens
of whom, in the interest of ethnography, were
brought to Cairo, and presented to the Govern-
ment.
In paragraph No. 3, as to results of the
Ugunda Expedition, I have claimed to have
explored and navigated the Nile from Urondo-
gani to Mrooli for the first time. From Mrooli it
will be remembered, however, that Captain Speke
endeavoured to pass to Karuma Falls, but was
compelled to abandon the attempt by the wily
agents of the superstitious Kamrasi; and thus
even this part of the river had not been then
navigated.
The river at Mrooli, as Sir Samuel Baker
claims, is at least 1000 yards, and in width forming
quite a little lake, a fact to which I owe my life ;
for in the attack made upon me there, I kept
my barks in the middle of the stream, and out
of range of the enemy, who otherwise would
have attacked me successfully from each 'bank
of the river.
One word more, and the writer will have closed
these notes of travel — " these naked truths of
naked people " — that are given to the public,
whose interest has been so deeply awakened in
THE CHARACTER OF THE NEGRO. 309
the mystery that has enshrouded the regions and
the people of Central Africa — solely that there
may be a just appreciation of the true condition
of things ; " with malice to none, and charity
to. all."
I have only to repeat here, what T have already
said in several chapters, as my honest impression
based upon facts, and not upon fancy: — that Cen-
tral Africa is no Paradise, but a plague spot — and
that the Negro, the product of this pestilential
region, is a miserable wretch, often devoid of
all tradition or belief in a Deity, which enthu-
siastic travellers have heretofore endeavoured to
endow him with. This is the naked truth that I
would present to the reader, in contradiction to
all those clap-trap paeans which are sung of
this benighted country. The humanitarian may
pause to consider the cost at which he sends his
emissaries, in the laudable effort to humanize
and civilize a country, where nature has placed
a barrier, not alone in the poisoned arrow of
the savage — but in the more deadly poisoned
air.
Mr. Stanley, who has since visited M'Tse, as re-
ported in 'the " Explorateur," in a letter dated the
14th April of the present year, says he " se flatte
d'avoir ebranle passablement la foi du Monarque
Noir au Mahometisme " (flatters himself to have
shaken very sensibly the faith of the black monarch
in Mohammedanism).
310 CENTEAL AFEIOA.
If (as I can scarcely believe) such language
was actually used by Mr. Stanley, lie was either
the dupe of the artful savage, or appeals to the
pseudo-philanthropy, which in Europe elevates
the African at the expense of truth. Having
already made one step from Fetichism to Moham-
medanism, the attempt to shake that new faith,
would only cause him to grope hopelessly in a
confused labyrinth of gods.
King M'Tse had recently adopted the Mussul-
man faith when I entered the country. Being a
soldier, not a missionary, I did not attempt the
work of conversion on this savage : which would
be utterly useless, in my opinion.
His character and conduct as I have described
them, in my humble judgment, rendered him a
very unfit disciple of the meek and lowly Jesus ;
besides, I felt conscientious scruples against advo-
cating the sending of missions into a country, which
I believe would only devote them to misery and a
speedy death, without any results that could
justify their inevitable martyrdom. Certainly this
has been the sequel of all the attempts made by
those brave men of the Austrian Catholic Mission,
under theApostolicVicar,MonseigneurCamboni, at
Khartoum, who has endeavoured to plant Missions
along the Bahr-el-Abiad and Khartoum, with but
one result : they all succumbed to the inevitable
and. fatal fever.
Egypt holds within her domains in the region of
THE KHEDIVE AND THE SLAVE TRADE. 311
tlie Upper Nile a hardy population of Nomads,
especially fitted for the exploitation of these coun-
tries. Inured to hardships, these Nubian Dongo-
lowee have already entered these countries, and
have been the pioneers of every traveller, except
Captain Speke and myself, in the explorations that
have from time to time been made there. Under a
proper regime of discipline, and the selection of
good men that I know among them, I regard them
as the great future civilizing element for the re-
demption of this country ; since the white man and
the Arab cannot permanently dwell in its pernicious
climate.
When the Khedive first initiated the project of
opening Central Africa to commerce and civiliza-
tion, the abolition of the Slave-Trade was the
first point of attack ; as will be seen in an article
of the Firman issued to Sir Samuel Baker,
investing him with power as Oovernor -General of
these provinces in 1869 : —
" Considering that humanity enforces the sup-
pression of the slave-hunters who occupy these
countries in great numbers, an expedition is or-
ganized to subdue to our authority the countries
situated to the south of Gondokoro, to suppress the
slave-trade, to introduce a system of commerce,"
&c., &c.
The " most absolute and supreme power, even
that of death," was conferred by this firman (as it
was also given to the successor of Sir Samuel
312 CENTBAL AFRICA.
Baker), that lie migtt the more speedily and surely
suppress the slave-trade.
Ignorant and unscrupulous writers, anxious for
place in the columns of the English press, have
endeavoured to call in question the sincerity of
the Khedive, in his efforts to abolish the slave-
trade — an accusation that is as puerile, as it is
without foundation. An expedition had been
formed, and committed to the care of an
Englishman, wliose strong feeling against slavery
was well known, and published in his former
work.
To quote Sir Samuel Baker on this point: —
" It was thus the Khedive determined, at the risk
" of his own popularity among his own subjects,
" to strike a direct blow at the slave-trade in its
" distant nest.
" To insure the fulfilment of this difficult enter-
" prise he selected an Englishman, armed withi a
" despotic power such as had never before been
" entrusted by a Mohammedan to a Christian."
When this expedition had completed its four
years of service in those lands, with its great
budget of expense and loss of life, the Khedive,
with a zeal and pertinacity that should have
awakened the most generous sympathy, deter-
mined that the work should go on, coide qui coute ;
and thus a successor was appointed to Sir
Samuel Baker (again an Englishman), doubtless
under the impression that Englishmen alone
SEYYID BUKGASH. 313
had a specialty in tlie suppression of tlie slave-
trade.
Fresli from these regions, I declare that the
result of the simple establishment of the Govern-
ment along the Bahr-el-Abiad, south to the
Equator, and westward of the Nile, both in the
Niam-Niam country and Darfour, has struck a
vital blow to slavery and the slave-trade; for in
every camp and garrison a fugitive slave may seek
protection and freedom, by simply declaring that
he " Owse Meri ! " literally, wants protection of
the Government. It has been already shown that
this has become a serious burden to the Egyptian
Government ; since freedom is interpreted by the
negro as a licence to laziness. This protection,
however, may not be denied by any Post Com-
mander, save at the cost of severe punishment to
the recusant.
On the East Coast of Africa, in or near Zanzi-
bar, from my own personal observation, there is
no such refuge for the negro ; for the slave-trade
flourishes on shore under the very guns of the
British man-of-war, sent there on a special mis-
sion to suppress it. Seyyid Burgash, it is said,
has promised to abolish slavery in his dominions,
and has issued "J. Proclamation^^ to that effect.
Mere clap -trap ! The truth is, that the au-
thority of Seyyid Burgash, except in Zanzibar
and one or two stations north in close proximity,
has no other existence than in the brain of some
314 CENTRAL AFKICA.
of his Missionary friends and agents in London.
The soldiers of Burgash are simple " squatters "
along the bleak sterile coast north of the Equator.
His weak and effeminate soldiery are permitted
to stay by the sufferance of the proud Soumali
natives, simply because these soldiers are slave-
traders, and placed there for this purpose. They
make no pretension to government, nor do they
levy tribute ; and the Soumali, did he not sell
them his slaves, or use them as supercargoes, he
would soon drive them from the coast.
The Proclamation of the " Sultan of Zan-
zibar " is merely " a Pope's Bull against the
comet," as Mr. Lincoln used to say.
In conclusion, the Soudan Railway which is fast
making its way across the desert, from Wadai-
Halfai to Shendy, — from whence by steamer com-
munication to Khartoum is had, — will make the
latter place the front door of Central Africa, the
radiating point of civilization, through trade and
commerce that will eventually be established with
the Equatorial Provinces — Darfour, Kordofan, and
Sennaar, rich in ivory, gold and copper mines,
gums, and ostrich feathers, &c.
I repeat that Egypt alone has within her
domain a population especially fit for the perilous
service of exploration of these countries ; and it
is to this element, rather than to costly foreign
expeditions, whose sacrifice of life and of money
are greatly in disproportion to results obtained.
CONCLUSION. 315
that recourse must be liad by the Ruler of Egypt,
by the philanthropist, and by the trader. It"
Providence has ordained that the regeneration of
Central Africa is to be wrought by human means,
it is thus, and thus only, it ever can be
accomplished.
POSTSCRIPT.
Fate liad decreed that the insignificant little
band of explorers, whose deeds have been detailed
in these Chapters, should count for something in
the discovery of the Sources of the Nile. In that
connexion, as well as to render a just tribute to
my former chief. Colonel Gordon, whom I quitted
to continue still the service of the Equatorial
Provinces, namely, the opening of a direct road to
connect the Lake Victoria with the Indian Ocean' —
I may be permitted to quote here the text of an
official note communicated recently by his Ex-
cellency Cherif Pacha, the enlightened Minister
of Foreign Affairs of his Highness the Khedive,
to the Consuls-General of the foreign Powers
in Egypt, containing a resume of latest news
received of the expedition of Gordon Pacha, and
at the same time affirming the annexation of terri-
tories in and around the Equatorial Nile basin : —
" D'apres les dernieres nouvelles parvenues au
Caire, Gordon Pacha a definitivement penetre
' See Appendix.
POSTSCRIPT. 31 7
dans le district de Mrooli, sur les bords du fleuve
Somerset (oil, comme on le sait, le Colonel Long
a essuye au mois de Septembre, 1874, I'attaque
a laquelle il a si courageusement resiste). Une
station a ete etablie a Masindi, capitale de
rUnyoro.
" Le roi de ce pays, Keba Rega, qui s'etait tou-
jours montre hostile a rEgypte,a du prendre la fuite.
" Aufina, son competiteur, anime, au contraire,
des meilleurs sentiments, a ete appele a lui succeder
comme representant du gouvernement du Khedive.
" Les populations sont soumises et tranquilles.
Gordon Pacha a envoye sous les ordres de Nour
Agha, officier sur et connaissant le pays, les
troupes necessaires pour former un poste militaire
a Urondogani et un autre sur les bords du Lac
Victoria, pres des chutes de Ripon. D'apres les
dernieres nouvelles, il a occupe la position de
Magungo sur les bords du Lac Albert, vers I'em-
bouchure du fleuve Somerset et mis en communi-
cation Magungo avec Dufle, station sur le Nil
Blanc, en amont de 1' embouchure du fleuve Asua,
oil sont arrives les bateaux en fer avec un bateau
a vapeur.
" Ainsi est accomplie I'annexion a I'Egypte de
tous les territoires sis autour des grands lacs Vic-
toria et Albert qui, avec leurs affluents et le fleuve
Somerset, ouvrent a la navigation un vaste champ
d' explorations que Gordon Pacha prepare jusqu'a
present.
318 POSTSCRIPT.
" JSfous somraes hcureux d'avoir a annoncer le
resultat de cette expedition qui a reussi, grace a
I'initiative intelligente, a I'energie et au devoue-
ment de ceux qui I'ont entreprise sous la direction
de Gordon Pacha, dans la genereuse pensee de
concourir au but que s'est propose le Khedive,
celui de feconder ces contrees par la civilisation,
par r agriculture et par le commerce.
" Oe but sera complete ment atteint avec le
temps et a I'aide d'une administration serieuse-
raent organisee, premiere base du succes. Apres
avoir pose cette premiere assise, le gouvernement
du Khedive ne negligera aucun des moyens propres
a assurer et en memo temps a hater autant que
possible le resultat progressif qu'il poursuit.
" Gordon Pacha exprime I'espoir que dans un
ou deux ans les communications entre les diverses
stations seront assez sures pour permettre aux
trafiquants et aux voyageurs de circuler avec la
plus entiere securite dans le pays."'
Still later information, conveyed through Major
General Sir Henry Rawlinson, dated April 29,
^According to the latest iutelligence received in Cairo,
Colonel Gordon has penetrated as far as the banks of the river
Somerset, in the district of Mrooli. A station has been esta-
blished at Masindi, the capital of Unyoro, the king of which
country, Keba Rega, who had invariably shown himself hostile
to the Egyptians, has been obliged to seek safety in flight.
Aufina, the rival of Keba Rega, has been called to succeed
him as representative of the Egyptian Government: Rionga,
who had been expelled by Keba Rega, and who, for many
years past, had sought the protection of Egypt, had been re-
POSTSCEIPT. 319
1876, to the E,ojal Geographical Society of
London, speaks of a telegram from General
Gordon Pacha, in which he states as follows : —
" On the 8th of March Mr. Gessi left Dufle
with the two iron lifeboats and the steamboat,
the * Khedive,' with their crews, numbering twenty-
two officers and men, with their arms, ammuni-
tion, &c. ; carrying also certain other supplies.
" They went to Magungo, to make the recon-
naissances already indicated to his Highness as to
be made.
•' They arrived at Magungo (which is indicated
on the map of Baker Pacha) on the 31st of March.
established at Mrooli in a capacity similar to that of Aufiiia
at Uuyoro. The surrounding native population is repre-
sented to be quiet and submissive. Colonel Gordon has de-
spatched a body of troops, under the orders of Nour Agha, a
trustworthy officer, well acquainted with the country, with the
design of establishing two military posts, the one at Urondo-
gani, and the other at the borders of Lake Victoria, near the
Kipon Falls. He has occupied the position of Magungo, on the
banks of Lake Albert, near the mouth of the Somerset river,
and establTshed communications between Magungo and Dufle,
a station on the White Nile, near the mouth of the river Asua,
where the iron vessels and a steamboat have arrived. In
this manner all the territories surrounding the Victoria and
Albert Lakes have been annexed to Egypt, these lakes, with
their confluents and the river Somerset, opening to Colonel
Gordon a vast field, which he is understood to be about to
explore* with as little delay as possible. Lastly, he is said to
have expressed the hope that within a year or two from the
present time the means of communication between the different
stations which he has established will be sufficiently secure to
allow both merchants and travellers to traverse the country in
perfect safety.
320 POSTSCRIPT.
There tliey missed tlie way, and returned to the
island of Fori, known as the Cataracts of Aufina,
where they were met by Mohammed Aga-Wat-el-
Mek, accompanied by several officers and soldiers,
and the Chief AuJfina. After the proper cere-
monies of reception were over, they raised and
saluted the flag of the Government.
" After several days of rest, they left and
went to Magungo, where they arrived on the 12th
of April ; and on the same day they hoisted the
flag there, on the banks of Lake Albert, in the
presence of the officers, soldiers, and natives, and
all the assemblage prayed for long life and con-
tinued victory for his Highness the Khedive, and
the Princes, his sons ; and all those regions and
their inhabitants came under the rule of the
Khedival Government.
" Mr. Gessi left Magungo on the 15th of April,
with the two iron boats, to explore Lake Albert,
and did not stop until he reached its extremity.
On the 19th of April he was able to state'that the
lake is 140 miles long, with a width of 50 miles ;
but he was not able to make the entire circuit of
the shore. He states that the lake is bounded
on the south by great trees (forests ?), and that in
that portion the water is only leg -deep ; that it is
bounded on the west by high mountains and great
forests, so that passage there was impossible.
" ' On the east there is a river which empties
into the lake, but the forests form an obstacle to
POSTSCRIPT. * 321
it's ascension, and the current is so strong that it
could not be navigated without great danger.
" I have no news of Stanley, and can only
suppose that he passed from Lake Victoria to the
west, saw the south end of Lake Albert, and then
went on to, perhaps, the nest of lakes I suppose
exist south of Lake Albert.
" A very curious feature presents itself in the
split which the Nile makes soon after leaving Lake
Albert. It divides into two branches, one of which
goes north to Dufle and this place ; the other goes
north-west, is 200 yards wide, and has a strong
current. If you have Manuel's maps, look down
28° E. long., and you will see west of Gondokoro
a ' Hiver Jaie,'^ on ' Bahr D'jemit' marked on it,
coming from near the Lake. Now we know that
fi'om ' Lake Djak' (Manuel's map) a stream enters
the Nile (near the point where Bahr Zaraff leaves
it), that this stream is deep during rains, and is
navigable to Eliab. We believe that the same
stream runs past Makuka, and I think the north-
west branch of the Nile, above spoken of, is that
stream, as Manuel's map would imply that it is,
and if so, we, here at Kerri, are on an isle of the
Nile. The levels of the River Welle, 2707 ft., and
Lake Albert, 2740 ft., allow of its going to Munza's,
but I do not think it possible. Speke, from native
report, put Lake Albert in nearly the same position
and about the same size as Gessi found it; look at
* The Rive*- Yeh (?), see page 258.
Z
322 * POSTSCRIPT.
the map of Speke (' Backwater of Nile/ Luta
Nzige). Gessi had, and so have I had, great help
from Baker's map. Murchison Fall is twenty- two
miles from the entrance into the lake." — Letter of
Gordon Pacha, April 29, 1876.
I am certainly puzzled to read that a river
empties into the Lake Albert " on the east, with
a current so strong that it could not be navigated;"
no such river was encountered either by myself or
Linant in going southward, the road being only —
by native intelligence as well as through Sir
Hamuel Baker, to whom the honour belongs of the
(liscovery of the Lake Albert — " three days dis-
tant from Mrooli;" it may be possible, however,
that the telegram has said " east" instead of ivest,
or it may be the short river Kitchiri, or a similar
stream finding its force in some mountain descent.
In any event particulars will soon be given that
will add this very important navigation of the
lake to the work accomplished by the Governor
General of the Equatorial Provinces, work in
which the Khedive has been untiring in energy as
he has been generous in the means afforded for its
accomplishment.
It is with pleasure, alloyed with pain at his sad
fate, that I refer to my friend, M, Ernest Linant,
mentioned before in these pages, the son of that
great French Engineer, M. Linant de Bellefonds,
whose name is written in the great irrigational
works that have marked progress in Egypt since
^ POSTSCRIPT. 323
the days of tlie great Mehemet Ali. M. Ernest
Linant liad left Cairo to visit his brother Auguste,
of whom I have also spoken. I met Ernest for
the last time at the junction of the Saubat with
the Bahr-el-Abiad, in company with Messrs.
Watson and Chippendall en route southward,
whilst I was hurrying down the Nile to Khartoum,
having but just returned from the Expedition to
Ugunda.
In the month of December of the following
year, when in command of the land forces under
H. E. McKillop Pacha, of the Royal Navy, and
Admiral in the service of his Highness the
Khedive, on the banks of the river Juba, on the
Indian Ocean, I received news of the massacre of
poor Linant and thirty- six of his men of the
same valiant " Forty Thieves " that had accom-
panied him to M'Tse.
It seems that he had followed my route to
Ugunda, where he had arrived in the month of
April, 1875 ; he had been well received by M'Tse,
and when ushered into his presence had the
pleasure of meeting with Mr. Stanley, the now
famous traveller, who in coming from Zanzibar
had circumnavigated the Lake Victoria Nyanza.^
^ Mr. Stanley, ere he quitted M. Linant, entrnsted to him
letters and a sketch Map of the lake, which— save with some
minor differences — confirms the accuracy of the dimensions of
the lake as conjectured by Captain Speke. Although the
first to navigate the lake, my enfeebled condition, and having
324 POSTSCRIPT.
Linant, after spending several days with
Stanley, turned Ms face northward, and retraced
his route towards Gondokoro or Bedden, now
become the head-quarters of Gordon Pacha.
Stanley- turned to pursue his explorations — in
what direction is not clear — but the long interval
that has passed would seem to indicate that he
had gone westward to the Atlantic. This con-
clusion amounts almost to a certainty since the
recent exploration of the Lake Albert by Mr. Gessi
says nothing of Mr. Stanley.
To return to Linant, he passed in safety over the
return route ; and was attacked by the same tribe
that had attacked me in 1874. In his own eloquent
way he described his visit to M'Tse, his Itinerary
embodied many incidents related by me, and it was
with a mournful pleasure that Ipassedthusinreview
the scenes of misery to which my poor little troupe
had been doubly devoted, save with here and there
an occasional enthusiastic sentiment expressed of
a spot that presented less of misery in nature and
in man. There was the same record of marches
through bog and morass, through pestilence and
fever, and the same struggle with the treachery
and hypocrisy of the negro. He mentioned a lonely
only two soldiers, rendered me unable to brave the opposition
of the 1200 escort of M'Tse's navy, and was therefore
obliged to turn my back upon the lake with the impression
that the numerous islands seen (and reported by Stanley) were
a coast-line, and, thus deceived, causing me to report the lake
as only fifteen to twenty miles wide.
POSTSCRIPT.
325
spot in tlie Kidi Wilderness, between the Post
Fatiko and Foueira, where on a dark and gloomy
day, in the month of May of the preceding year, I
had stopped beneath a tree for protection from the
howling storm; here he says," J'aivulenom demon
ami Long ! " Cut deep in the bark was " Long 74."
If, as has been said, and I most ardently
desire that it may prove to be so, that M'Tse
has been converted to Christianity, and that he
no longer considers human sacrifices an attribute
of greatness, it seems difficult to reconcile this
conversion with an act which M. Linant cites in
his report ; that a few days prior to his depar-
ture, and consequently after the departure of Mr.
Stanley, M'Tse, boastful of his accuracy of aim,
" levelled his gun deliberately at one of his female
attendants, and blew her brains out."
Linant returned then to the station at Bedden.
It was here three days afterwards that he crossed
the river, and in full view of the camp was mas-
sacred with thirty-six soldiers, as already stated.
It may not be mal a propos to add here, for the
benefit of those who claim that this race may be
civilized by moral suasion, that the dupHcity and
treachery of the negro, evidence of which may be
gathered from the honest opinion of all travellers,
render a confidence in his probity by weak and
inoffensive parties not only wrong but almost
criminal, since it becomes an incentive to the
black to exhibit that nature which Sir Samuel
326 POSTSCRIPT.
Baker has attributed to him, in the assertion that
he does right only when he has not the power to
do wrong — a perfectly legitimate savage instinct,
that oft-repeated massacres attest.
The question of the Nile Sources is now no
longer one of " Caput Nili quserere" — the problem
of remote ages has been-finally solved. The Lakes
Victoria, Ibrahim, and Albert, acting as great
basins of the Equatorial water-shed, and fed by
perpetual Equatorial rains, constitute with their
affluents the Sources of the Nile.
One other problem that may await the exploita-
tion of the countries discovered engages the
attention of the Geographical world — the relation
with these lake basins of that great affluent of the
Bahr-el-Abiad, the river Saubat.
APPENDIX.
NOTE.
ScARCELT had I finished the course of medical treatment pre-
scribed me at Plombieres dans les Vosges, when I received a
summons to return to Egypt. On the 2nd of September,
obliged to sacrifice to a military exigence my intention of
visiting America, where my aged and honoured father and
family reside, I left Paris via Marseilles, arriving in Egypt
the 9th of the same month. On the 16th I left Cairo in a
special train for Suez, there to take command of a battalion of
soldiers of all arms. Our objective point was the Oriental Coast
of Africa in the Indian Ocean ; the purpose, a scientific and
commercial Expedition, to cut an Equatorial Road to the Lake
Victoria, and open up those countries to commerce and civili-
zation by a short and direct route. With the force at our
command its accomplishment seemed easy. The chief com-
mand of the expedition had been confided to H. E. McKillop
Pacha, a distinguished officer of H.B.M. Navy, now in the
Egyptian Service.
The expedition, however, was recalled, before its legitimate
object had been accomplished. The river Juba, 15' south of
the Equator, had, until this moment, been unexplored. Von
der Decken, ten years before, had made the attempt, but was
treacherously massacred with his boat's crew by the savages ;
and the river was left thus still unknown to geographers.*
Taking with me a detachment of twenty-five men and two
' The Author is mistaken in this statement : — Von der Decken ascended
the Juba in a steamer as far as Barderah, ahout 350 miles as the river
winds, or 175 miles in geographical distance. — E. M.
328 APPENDIX.
rocket-pieces, I ascended the Juba for a distance of 150 miles in
a steam launch that, with difficulty, had been carried over the
dangerous surf which makes the mouth of the river nearly
impassable.
I am not inclined to believe with Sir Samuel Baker " that
the river called Jooba, in the Lobbohr country, east of Fatiko,
is the Juba that flows into the Indian Ocean,"
I ascended the river far enough to perceive its frequent
discolorations tinging the water red, that certainly showed its
mountain origin, and, from the report of those who had been to
its source, I do not think that his supposition is well founded.
This exploration, with the study of the tribes and their
relations of language and customs, with the races that inhabit
Central Africa, will be made the subject of subsequent "Notes
of Travel and Exploration of tJtie river Juba."
VOCABULARY OF WORDS SELECTED FROM LANGUAGES
SPOKEN BY TRIBES IN CENTRAL AFRICA.
Ugunda.
Monbutto.
Niam Niam.
Muro.
Abaker.
Kiy^h.
Mundo.
Salutation
Otiano and
Yanzig-Yanzig
Ingassy 1
Moyiehkoro
Mu'to'tah
Agi
Mabayi^h
Angiora
andikonya
Morning
Kakati
Nebi libou
Iso
Titou
Kalondo
Abutiss^
Ear
Night
Kero
Nekini
Ges86
Kerba
Odrou
Bibiti
Sun
M Sana
Neiko
Oola
Outou
Kardo
Adra
Rar
Moon
Mouesi
Nangare
Tiwi
Imbar
Aff^
Omba
Rha
Star
Muiyeny^
Etton loa
Torgo
Mini-Mini
Kebl
Aurassola
GoMra
Heavens
Lubali
Manga
Bon
Aerr^
Iton
Phi
Earth
Taka
Napp^
Sanda
Yuini
Cou
Obrae
Tou
Forest
Mitti
Tonoor
TJngonah
Kagah
Och6
Rho
House
Miyou
Egnoke
Dimo
Ditch^
Ba!
Cambo
Wood
Nukou
Nagama
Tuakd
Ghir
Natafa
Rho-or-():e
Iron
Kyiima
Nobila
Binga
Manbillo
Gufa
Ci^
Copper
Nngaga
Natala
Talah
Godo to mo
Attala
Ija Combe
Cloth
Lubongo
Nehlouma
Bftngo Lo-
Koddo
Bongo
Bongo
Eye
Liso
Nengo
Zoga or
Mi
Komo
Mi
Gigah
Ear
Mattou
Nebbee
lu^ Bonga-
lissa.
Lili
Pa
Bil6
Bi
Gegah
Head
M'tu^
NMona
Bi
DoU
Dri
Jungo
Nose
Nindo
Namo
Ossi
Nmpho
Sommo
Nmpha
Gogo
Forehead
Kenyil
Napimba
Popoli
Millitti
Som de
Undrogalli
Pobarah
Mouth
M'momuah
Natikwa
Papouce
Tila
Tola°™°
Toila
Kokom
Teeth
M'nyo
Ekki
Linda
Si
Shwiga
Si
Tatah
Tongue
Lima
Nakkrada
Nubah
Ladra
Adra
Mimi
Moustaches
Birefo
Endelo
Bi
Tibili
Chiagah
Arm
M'Kono
M Takwa
Bey
Dri
Schili
Drago
Papa
Hand
Nugaro
Ett6
Nliza
Nuga
Doago
Gi-gi-pa
Chin
Kalefo
Naki-ki
Ohin-balli
Bongo
Nugoko
Ditrhoboli
Sa-mimi
Leg
KoriROulo
Neddo
Ondolah
Pii
Sliindi
Pou
Lulu
Foot
Tigi ri
Apuendri
Pendolah
Shindi
Pompey
Gigilu
Thigh
Chin gas
galli
Mitombr^
Etoppi
Calf of the
Leg
Listen
Agumb^
Water
Mezi
Agua
Ivory-
Nekok6
Man
M'saga
Agogo
Ago
Addo
Ago
Commoko
Woman
M'kabsi
Namass^
Akoi
Kar
Oko
Worsah
Girl
M'nara
Kira
Kouss^
Worsha
Boy
Kelensi
Aliko
Ao
Adoupi
Imbassah
Child
Katto
Nebatabou
Schillou
Infarmare
Impar-
sepero
Father
Ejtta oii
Papa
Adoupi
Baba
Attar
Nyeu
Mother
Toko
li
Ma Ma
Andromari
Worsa
Brother
M'Konto6
wo
Aowrogua
Lundaina
Adroupe
Augonani
Au-ga-nani
Sister
Barimgoe
Nnopi
Lima
-worsa
Fish
sega
Tukag^
Nada
Tio
Kang^
Ap6
Si'
Beef
Akaba
Noko
llti
1>^cqo
Mima
Mon^fjo
Mansu
330
APPENDIX.
Ugunda.
Monbutto.
Niam Niam.
Muro.
Abaker.
Kiy^h.
Mundo.
Cow-
Mitt^
Nirrh
Nito
Iti
Iti
Iti
Iti
Goat
Imbos^
Mimi
Wossonda
Indi
Ina
Inr^
Mimi
Dog
Umbois
Nessi
An go
Ocho
Ich
Ojekko
Boro
Cat
Ki'ya'yo
Nessengina
Dandarah
loro
AUabonga
L6ko-k6
Zarzas
Rat
Missi
Naipi
Okoli
Idra
Chigak
Orago
i^ou
Lion
Ingafo «
iliaii
Kojinero
in
Kami
Kami
Leopard
Braga-ma
Kakundo
Zaya
Leyboyiah
Ker
Kalagi
Cire
Banana
M'Tokg
Abira
Sultan
M. Yane
Neba
Monkey
Inkobi
N(5'koko
Good
Kurungiur
Banombi
Bad
Kobi
Tei Eme-
gunda
res
Ah
EE. EE.
No
ah
Muh
1
Mo
Koma
Sa
Kill
Beringo
%
Beri
Soewi
oa
Bor^
Bossu
3
Sutlo
Sutta
Bita
Dotla
Batla
4
N'ya
Sosona
Biana
Ashtj
Balla
5
Tano
Tosorani
Biswa
Ini
Aboufi.
6
M'Kago
Tangue
kami
Bandah
Bedioa
Im kili
Mudia
7
M'Saufo
Bitaonl
Im-bon6
Bagina
8
M'Nano
Tongolo-
Gika
Kibeto
Ini-dotta
Liri
9
M'Nanda
Tonnon
Debiano
Tin Ash6
Mannoa
10
Komi
Takani
Bawa
Cliika
Nujorquoi
li
Komi-wo
Bawa ba
sin sa
OMkaKilli
Nujor quoi
Beringo
20
™Komi-
Beri
Bawa ba
sin ow
Chi KeU
Tiki B^re
30
■"Komi
Sutlo
Gibil Bour6
Chi otta
Tiki Eire
Nujorquoi
40
■"KomiNya
Diana-oi€
Chi bon6
Tiki Borsa
50
™Komi
Sano
Chiln6
Tike Borsa
Nujorquoi
60
"Komi
Kago
Chi
70
■"Komi
Saufo
80
™Komi
Nano
90
™Komi
Nanda
100
Bi Komi
Biri
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