Ceylon and the Cingalese : their history, government, and religion, the antiquities, institutions, produce, revenue, and capabilities of the island : with anecdotes illustrating the manners and customs of the people

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CEYLON

AND

THE CINGALESE.

— It is a goodly sight to see

What Heaven hath done for this delicious land !
What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree !
What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand !"

Byrok.

rj s

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CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE;

THEIR

HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND RELIGION,

THE

ANTIQUITIES, INSTITUTIONS, PEODUCE,
REVENUE, AND CAPABILITIES

OF THE ISLAND;

WITH

ANECDOTES ILLUSTRATING
THE

MAKNEES AND CUSTOMS

OF THE

PEOPLE.
BY

HENRY CHARLES SIRR, M.A.,

OF

Lincoln's inn, b arrister- at-law,

ANn

LATE DEPUTY QUEEN's ADVOCATE

FOR THE

SOUTHERN CIRCUIT IN THE ISLAND OF CEYLON.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER,

20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1850.

SEntcrtlJ at ^tatiomriS' Hall.

LONDON :

PRINTED BY G. J. PALMER, SAVOY 8TREKT, STHAND.

J^

/T

THE MOST NOBLE AND RIGHT HONORABLE
"N JAMES BROWNLOW WILLIAM GASCOIGNE CECIL,

V MARQUIS OF SALISBURY, K.G , D.C.L.,

LORD LIEUTENANT OF THE COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX,

&c. &c. &c.

C!)uS E23ork t^, fin pcrmtji^ton, rcspcctfulln Uctliratclr,

BY HIS LORDSHIP'S

MOST OBEDIENT,

HUMBLE SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

From the extraordinary interest created by
recent events in Ceylon, and the desire for infor-
mation evinced by all classes upon the subject of
the late Rebellion, we have been induced to prepare
the following pages for the press, some portion of
which appeared in a leading periodical shortly
after our return from the Colony.

Our object has been to unfold the capabilities
of this beautifid island, and call attention to its
undeveloped resources : amongst the former may
be classed the proposed emigration to Newera-
Ellia, and amongst the latter the long talked of,
and essential undertaking — the restoration of the
ancient tanks — the whole credit of which last-
named proposition, a recent writer, who has never
visited the Colony, has most unjustly claimed for
himself, although the greater number of, if not all,

vm PREFACE.

authors who have sojourned in the " Cinnamon
Isle" have referred to the subject.

In the performance of our task, we have endea-
voured to notice, and believe that we have con-
sidered, every topic of interest, described the
general features of the countiy, its glorious an-
tiquities and literature, and illustrated the cha-
racter and habits of its mixed population.

As a book of reference, we have essayed to
render these pages useful, by the classification
of chapters, each devoted to a particular subject.

The ancient history of Lanka-diva has been
glanced at, and its modem, or that portion tliereof
which is connected with European rule, has been
fully entered into, and, being brought down to the
present period, it includes a complete account

OF THE LATE KaNDL^N REBELLION, ITS ORIGIN,

AND CONSEQUENCES, together with an expose of
the supposed grievances of our fellow-suhjects,
(ind the critical position of the colonial govern-
))ieni.

We have also ventured, from personal obsei'va-
tion and facts, to show the inefficiency of death,
as a punishment, or example, amongst a popula-
tion professing the tenets of Buddhism.

April, 1850.
1, New Square, Lincoln's Inn.

IX

CONTENTS

OF THE FIEST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Poiut de Galle — Beauty of the scenery aud liai-bour —
Canoes — Arrival of steamer — Scene on boai'd — Native
ti-aders — Touters to the lodging-bouses — Custom
House — Grotesque appearance of Cbitty Man — De-
scription of the fort — Guai'd-house — Queen's house —
Dwellings — Moonnen — Pettah — Paying for your com-
plexion. ..... Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Going to call the coach, instead of the coach calling for
you — Preparations for Departure — Description of the
Royal Mails in Ceylon — The Colombo road — Wild Pea-
cock— Guano — ^lonkeys — Toddy di-awers — Bentotte —
Kestive horses — Anecdote — Caltura — Beauty of scenery
— Cinnamon plantations — Pagoda tree — The fashionable
quarter of Colombo — Colpetty — The Galle Face — Curious
gazers at new-comers — Arrival of the Royal Mail, gives

X CONTENTS.

rise to conjectures as to who the new-comers are, and
wherefore they have come to Ceylon. . . 19

CHAPTER III.

Colombo — Harbom* — Custom-house — Animated scene —
Derivation of the name of the Port — Fortifications — Troops
— Queen's House — Public offices in the Fort — Pettah —
Native traders — Chui'ches, chapels, religious and chari-
table institutions — Public offices in the Pettah — Native
police — Slave Island — Galle Face — Colonial manners —
The effect of climate upon the female character — The
fasliionable drive — Beauty of the spot — Sunset — Sea-
breezes — E vening — Fii-e-fiies — Cinnamon — Tribute de-
manded by the Portuguese — Cultivation introduced by the
Dutch — Value of the monopoly to the Dutch and English
governments — Description of the shiTib — Uses of every
portion of the cinnamon-laurel — Peeling knives — Num-
ber of crops in the year — Prei)aring the spice — ChaUias-
or cinnamon peelers — Punkahs — The result of an unex-
pected downfall — Dessert — Crows, their boldness and
audacity. . . . . . .39

CHAPTER IV.

Situation of Kandy — Route — Bridge of boats — Paddy ter-
races— Aspect of the people — Ambepusse — Mountain
zone — Kadaganawa pass — Mountain scenery — Talapat,
or great fan palm — Animal life — Draught elephants —
Peredenia — Bridge and Botanical gardens — Curious
specimens of the vegetable kingdom — Travellers' fiiend
— City of Kandy — Artfficial lake — Bathing house of the
Queen's — Palace — Native shops — Customs — Buildings —
Artillery-barracks — Deficiency of water — The governor's

CONTENTS. Xi

residence — Beauty of the architectm-e and site — Views of
the valley of Doombera — Major Davie's tree — Groimds
of the Pavilion — Lady Horton's road — Grandeur of sce-
neiy — Altitude of the mountains — Military station on
One-tree hUl — Legend — Kurunaigalla tunnel — Compul-
sory labour — Animals, bii-ds, and reptiles, ia the sur-
rounding oountiy. . . . . .72

CHAPTER V.

Route to Trincomalee — Native suspension bridge — Caves
of Dambool — Remains of tanks — Difficulty of construct
ing a portion of the road — Hot wells — Temperatm-e -of
the waters — Beneficial application in certain diseases —
Legend attached to the waters — Coast and liarbour of
Trincomalee — situation, latitude, longitude — Size of har-
bour — Fort of Trincomalee — Town — buildings —
Troops — Insalubrity of the climate — Tiincomalee named
in ancient records— Colony of Malabars established there
before 125 A.D. — Interesting religious ceremony on the
promonotory in honour of Siva — Pillar to the memory of
Francia van Rhede — Melancholy histoiy — Fantastic
appearance of the Quartz Rocks — Principal roads 99

CHAPTER VI.

Newera EUia— The sanatorium of the island— The road-
Mountain conflagration — Convalescent station for the
militaiy, established 1829— Cascades of Rambodde—
Newera Ellia a royal residence in 1628 — Scenery — Euro-
pean aspect of the dwellings— Vegetation — The town —
Public buildings— Salubrity of the climate — Farming ex-
periments— Great capabilities and fertile soU of Newera
Ellia — Proposed plan of emigration — Price of stock and

Xll CONTENTS.

produce — Iron found on the plain — Carnage roads^Foot-
path to the summit of Pedi'o-talla galla — Horton Plains,
the highest tahle-land in Ceylon — Luxuriant specimens
of the Nepenthes distillatoria, or pitcher plant — Nelu, or
honey plant. . . . . .115

CHAPTER VII.

Geological character of the island — Minerals — Salt lakes
— Revenue arising from them — Tanks — Agiicultm-e — Na-
tive plough — Mystic rite when the paddy is trodden out
— Cultivation — Lemon grass — Value and uses of cocoa-
nut trees — Cinnamon — Coffee — Sugai* — Cotton — Tobacco
— Areka nuts — Ambuprasudana, or water nut — Jack and
bread-fi-uit trees — Indigo — Mulbeny trees — Talapat pahii
— Mee tree — Ebony tree — Calamander ti'ee — Red sandal
and satin-wood trees — The Kabook tree — ^Variety of the
vegetable world — The bo, or sacred tree — Capabilities of
cultivation and extraordinary fertility of the soil — Ex-
pense of housekeeping — Prices of provisions at Galle and
Colombo — Meat — Poultry — Fish and tisheries — Fnxit —
Vegetables — Servants' wages — House-rent — Same at
Kandy and Newera EUia. .... 134

CHAPTER VIII.

Natural histoiy — Elephants of Ceylon spoken of by Pliny
and Dionysius — Sagacity — Trained to be executioners by
the kings of Kandy — Ancient mode of valuing elephants
— Anecdote — Catching elephants with the atmaddoo —
Ornaments made from the coarse hairs of the tail — King
of Kandy's personal inspection of captm'ed elephants —
Tyranny — Knox's account — Rogue-elephant — Elephant-
sljooting — Major Rogers — His miraculous escape — Siu-

CONTENTS. Xlll

gular death — Elephants ascend the moxmtains — Tusks
found buried in the jungles — Elks — Deer — Walmeenya —
Beauty and docility — Wild buffaloes — Bears— Cheetahs,
or leopards — Kandian mode of snarmg them — Distinctive
pecuUarity — Wild hogs— Animals found in jungle — Eats
— Shrew — Anecdote of a musk-rat — Ornithological speci-
mens— Land-leeches — Ticks — Snakes — Anaconda— Cobra
capello, or the sacred naga of the Cingalese — Warning —
Hau--breadth escape— Tic polonga— Legend— Ichneiimon
attacking a cobra — Crocodiles — Hunting — Crocodile-
charmers — Native method of catching and destroying
crocodiles — Fecundity — Number of eggs— Pugnacity of
the yoimg — Insect tribes — White ants — Destructive pro-
pensities— Then- nests. .... 183

CHAPTER IX.

Geographical position of Ceylon — Size, fertility, and produce
— Mentioned by classical writers of antiquity — Hindoo and
Cingalese records— Date of the submersion of the island,
nearly coincides with the Mosaic — Indian conqueror,
Wijeya— Aborigines — Island visited by the Eomans —
Ciagalese ambassadors visit Rome— Account given in the
sixth centmy by Cosmas IncUcopleustes — Island first
visited by the Portuguese in 1505 — Native accoimt —
Dutch in Ceylon— Wars between the Portuguese and
Dutch — Affecting historical anecdote — Battles — The
Portuguese possessions in Ceylon obtained by Oie Dutch
in 1658 — List of the Portuguese Governors. . 218

CHAPTER X.
Historical account continued fi-om 1659 to 1795, when the

xiv CONTENTS.

Dutch siu-venderecl, by capitulation, their possessions in
Ceylon to the British — List of Dutch Governors— Suni-
maiy of the effect of Portuguese and Dutch rule upon
the Cingalese character — Philalethe's account of the

same.

254

CHAPTER XI.

Kaadian character — Personal appearance — Cingalese of the
lowlands — Character of the women — Native governments-
King's officers — Customs — Mode of smelting ii-on— British
rule from 1795 to 1805 — Governor North — Fii-st English
governor — Supreme Court of Judicature established —
Kandian war — Fearful massacre of British troops —
DastaixUy and disgi-aceful conduct of Major Davie —
Extraordinaiy escape of two soldiers — Summary of poIL
tical events — False poUcy of General Macdowall — Noble
conduct of Captain Nouradeen — Braveiy of Major John-
son— Su- Thomas Maitland succeeds the Honour-
able Frederick North — The judicious rule of Governor
North. . . . . • .277

CHAPTER XII.

From 1805 to 1844 — Sri Wila-ama's tyi-anny — Fii'st Adikar
family mm'dered — Affecting account of the execution —
Heroic conduct of the wife and son — Babe taken from
the mother's breast to be decapitated — Rebellion in
Kandy — Martial law proclaimed — Tranquillity restored —
Dalada rehc — Death of the King of Kandy — Governor Sir
CoUn Campbell — His policy — Bishopric of Colombo con-
stituted— The first Bishop Dr. Chapman — His exertions
and character — Rebellion in Kandy — The Piiests' causes
of dissatisfaction — New taxes and first disturbance — Pre*

CONTENTS.

tender proclaimed — His progi-ess — Rebels enter and
destroy the public biiildings at Matele — Troops march
from Kandy — Conflict with rebels— Martial law proclaimed
— Reward offered for Pretender — Destniction of Kumegalle
— Observer newspaper exciting discontent — Alarming
meeting of natives near the seat of Government — Attack
of the police — Mr. Elliot addi-esses the mob — Reinforce-
ments sent to Kandy — The Commandant takes possession
of the Dalada relic — Pretender's brother shot — Result of
Couits Martial — Special sessions of Supreme Court — The
Cluef Justice's charge — His recommendation to mercv —
Lord Torrington's reply. . . . .318

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME I.

View of Colombo

Map of the Island of Ceylon

Chitty Man .

Cingalese Man

Cingalese "Woman

Ratramahatmeer

Frontispiece

Page I

11

. 279

. 282
. 284

VOLUME IL

The Lake of Kandy . . . Frontispiece

Kandian Woman . . . .35

Cingalese Pins, or Ornaments for the Hair . 36
Buddha and Priests . . . .116

Profile of Cingalese Woman . . . 1 74

SIO

82

Point Fe</ro

80

Ea^t Lon^xtwdbt. Sll

82

Fai>lis/ir/:t />y W. S/u>^// , 2o, OtMvUorou^A .^reeii.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

'

CHAPTER I.

Point de Galle — Beauty of the scenery and harbour —
Canoes — Arrival of steamer — Scene on board — Native
traders — Touters to the lodging-houses — Custom
House — Grotesque appearance of Chitty Man — De-
scription of the fort — Guard-house — Queen's house —
Dwellings — Moormen — Pettah — Paying for your com-
plexion.

Prosaic language is inadequate to convey a
faithful portraiture of the exquisite scenery, truly
oriental in its character, that abounds in the Cin-
namon Isle, the poet's plume, and painter's pencil,
being alone calculated for the purpose. The

VOL. I. B

2 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

extreme fertility of the soil, and the magnificence
of the vegetable kingdom, in no part of Ceylon
are more perceptible than in the neighbourhood
of Point de Galle, the traveller's eye dwelling
with delight upon the varied, and verdant foliage
which encircles the sea shore. The pellucid
azure of the cloudless skies, the sun's glittering
beams reflected in millions of sparkling rays on
the bosom of the blue ocean, the waves rolling
and dashing in volumes of snowy surf over the
dark yellow rocks, present a picture of all that
is sublime and lovely in Nature.

The harbour of Point de Galle lies at the
southern exti'emity of the Island of Ceylon, being
an inland bay of a semicircular or horse- shoe
form, constructed by the all-bounteous hand of
Nature, and is situate in lat. 6° O 59° north, and
long. 80" 17' 2" lat. Skirting the harbour, are
masses of rock, riven by the dashing of the
surge, and worn by the hand of time into many
fantastic and picturesque forms. In the back
ground are cocoa-nut palms (Cocos nucifera)
with their stately but slender trunks o'er-topping
all the other trees, and outvieing the rest of the
vegetable world in majestic graceful loveliness.
Nothing can be more elegant than the elongated
green leaves, with their feathery fringe, which

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 3

wave in a canopied form fi'om the summit of the
tree, droop around the slender stem, moving
gently to and fro as the sea-breeze wantons
among them. Clusters of nuts (or fruit) of an
oval shape, measuring from seventeen to twenty
inches in diameter, grow amongst the leaves close
to the trunk of the tree ; and these being of a
green less vivid than their brilliant colouring,
contrast exquisitely with the subdued hue of the
dark brown bark of the trunk. Mingled with
these stately trees is the majestic bread-fruit tree
(Artocarpus incisa) with its umbrageous foliage,
and enormous emerald-green leaves ; from the
branches are suspended the large round fruit,
covered with a rough rind, gladdening alike eye
and heart, wdth the magnificent majestic beauty
of luxuriant vegetation. Near to this tree will be
seen the slender papaw tree, (Carica papaya,) the
stem gradually tapering to the top, where the
leaves spread forth in a parachute form, the
fruit, bright yellow and melon shaped, hanging
beneath them.

Interspersed amongst these monarch s of vege-
tation are various other trees, clothed in rich
foliage, but of smaller dimensions, contrasting
well with those of larger growth. Imagine the
waves foaming and frothing, dashing against and

B 2

4 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

over the yellow rocks, then a billow gracefully
rolling appearing to gain increased strength as
it reaches the shingly beach, on which it is pre-
cipitately driven in a shower of white spray, the
froth remaining for a few moments on the glis-
tening strand, and even as you gaze, becoming
absorbed. On the undulating bosom of the
swelling blue ocean sparkling with the bright
rays of Sol, in all the varied prismatic tints,
a few European vessels are riding at anchor,
their furled sails hanging in graceful festoons
from the yards. Intermingling with these craft
are the canoes of the natives, rudely constructed
barks hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, with
some transverse sticks for benches ; to one side
of the canoe is fastened an outrigger, formed of
a slender spar nearly of equal length with the
vessel to which it is attached by two curved arms ;
this outrigger floating upon the water, prevents
the possibility of the canoe being capsized.

These primitive craft vary in length fi-om twelve
to twenty feet, and in width from two to three,
being propelled by paddles three feet and a half
long, roughly wrought into a battledore shape,
the three or more men using them being seated
at either extremity, and in the centre of the
canoe. These fragile barks are usually laden

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 5

with luscious fruits, vegetables, fish, or other
articles of an edible nature, for the use of our
ships; and the native occupants of the canoes,
are men and youths of bright bronze complexion,
with well-formed features, and soft black almond-
shaped eyes, the luxuriant long black hair of the
former being twisted into a thick knot at the back
of the head ; of the latter, allowed to flow " o'er
their shoulders bare," a small handkerchief,
scarf, or piece of cotton, tied around their loins
forming their sole clothing. Place all these in-
animate and animated adjuncts under cloudless
skies, and a tropical sun, with the thermometer
standing at ninety-six, and a faint conception
may be formed of the scenery around, and har-
bour of Point de Galle.

As soon as the steamer from England arrives,
equal excitement prevails on board the vessel
and on the shore, and as we wish to edify our
indulgent readers "Delectando pariterque mo-
mendo," we will imagine the vessel to have ar-
rived during the night, and the captain as anxious
to take in his supply of coal, and pursue his
voyage, as the passengers are to touch terra
firma again, after passing days or weeks without
enjoying that luxury, although it may only be
for a few hours. The day has dawned, the

6 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

morning gun has boomed over the waters, waken-
ing all slumberers, and those amongst the pas-
sengers who are about to make Lankadivas *
verdant shores their home for a time, are soon
busily employed in packing up then* ti*avelling
appurtenances, anxious to avail themselves of the
first boat that pushes off, to take them to the
shore. Many, buoyant with hope, and in the
full strength and vigour of manhood, looking
forward with eager anticipation to the comple-
tion of schemes and projects, whereby they hope
to make a fortune, resolving to devote the whole
energy of their natiu'e to ensure the accomplish-
ment of their plans. Could some of the dreamers
but raise the veil of futurity, numbers would
shrink back appalled ; for, in lieu of wealth and
renown, they would see the phantoms of disease
and untimely death throwing around their gloomy
shadows, and hovering in their path. But, as
the orient sun rises in unclouded splendour,
casting the red blush of his morning beams
around on land and sea, so man revels in bright
visions of what is to be, until the dull realities
of life, like, clouds obscuring the brilliant beams
of the planet, cast their shade over the rays of
hope.

* The ancient name used by tlie natives for Ceylon.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 7

To return to our description of the harbour. As
soon as the sun has risen, the waters appear to
teem with canoes, hastening to the steamer,
some bringing provisions, others to land pas-
sengers and their baggage, whilst large boats
heavily freighted with coal, force their way be-
tween the lesser craft. The scene of confusion
on board the steam-vessel soon becomes inde-
scribable. Passengers are seen tossing their various
packages into the canoe that is to bear them
to the shore, and hurriedly attempt to descend
the ladder at the steamer's side, but in so doing,
encounter coolees ascending, carrying baskets
of coal, and each then jostles and hustles the
other, in the attempt made by either party to
pursue their respective routes. Then arises and
resounds a confusion of tongues and languages,
only to be equalled by that of Babel, exclama-
tions in English, Cingalese, French, Tamil,
Portugese, Hindostanee, in short in every known,
and almost unknown, language in the world
assail the ear, with comments neither polite, nor
peculiarly complimentary upon the agility of the
tawny sons of Adam. A native with a very
minute portion of dirty rag, attached to his person
through the medium of a piece of coir rope tied
around his loins, will step upon the deck, with

8 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

some trifling article for sale, and possibly en-
counter a blushing bride, or fair damsel fresh
from Albion's shores. The fair lady retreats a pace
or two, with a slight scream at sight of the un-
clothed dusky figure, placing her hand before
her eyes to exclude the disagreeable vision.

Then will follow a Moorman with shaven head,
a round embroidered cloth cap, thickly padded
with cotton, placed on the top of his shorn
cranium to protect it from the sun's powerful rays,
with at least six yards of cotton, either white or
coloured, tied round his loins with a showy silk
handkerchief, forming a kind of petticoat reach-
ing to his ankles, (called by the natives Comboy,)
but leaving him in a complete state of nudity
from the waist upwards. This demi-nude speci-
men of humanity has in all probability brought
some articles of vertu or curiosity to sell, at all
events what he considers so, consisting of knife-
handles, and snuff-boxes, cut out of the molar
tooth of the elephant, some fine samples of va-
rious coloured glass which he endeavours to palm
off" as precious stones and gems of the first water.
These are accompanied or succeeded by divers
other natives and inhabitants of the island, some
of them offering tortoise-shell and silver bodkins
for the hair, others calamander work-boxes inlaid

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. V

with ivory, carved ebony caskets, and baskets
made from the porcupine's quills, for sale.
Amongst the multitude who regard the steam
boat gentlemen, travellers being thus designated
by all the native denizens of Ceylon, as their
lawful game, are the touters for the Jiottels, for
so lodging-houses are called by these copper-
coloured gently. The touter is invariably a
half-caste, or burgher, who generally abounds in
a very undue appreciation of his own dignity,
and position, and this gentleman, in his own
estimation, will place a card in the hands of a
traveller and descant most fluently in broken
English, upon the good cheer, moderate charges,
and comforts that are to be found in the parti-
cular hottel which he has the felicity to represent.
So soon as the eloquence of the touter has in-
duced a passenger, or passengers, to trust him-
self or themselves to his guidance, he intimates
to a coolee that it is his will and pleasure, that
such and such baggage should be placed in a
particular canoe, not condescending to lower his
dignity by touching, lifting, or carrying port-
manteau, carpet-bag, hat-box, or dressing-case.
When these minor arrangements are completed,
he precedes the traveller down the ladder, el-
bowing his way, vociferating in an authoritative

B 5

10 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

manner, to clear a path as he rudely thrusts the
coolees aside. Most ludicrous is the assumption
of these half-castes, who are held in supreme
contempt by the full-caste natives, their greatest
term of reproach being — " he burgher man," (or
half-caste,) and many a hearty gujfaio is in-
dulged in at their expense by Europeans.

The landing-place is a pier, extending some
two hundred feet into the water, at the shore
end of which is a rude building, bearing a strong
resemblance to a dilapidated bam ; this is the
Custom-house, and to it the baggage is taken,
and the inquiry made if it consists solely of
personal effects, or if there is any merchandize
intermixed. If the reply is satisfactoiy, the
packages are passed unopened, after the owner
has signed a declaration that he has no article
for sale or barter; for should there be any mar-
ketable commodities, the packing-cases are de-
tained to be examined, and duties levied. Never
shall we forget our amazement at the grotesque
costume and appearance of one of the subordi-
nate Custom-house officers, who was a native of
the Malabar coast, of the Chitty caste, or those
professing belief in the doctrines of the Romish
Church. The man carried on his head a black
velvet cap about six inches in height, which

CHITTY MAN.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 11

projected forward in a hom-like manner, on either
side of his head, the edges of the head-dress being
trimmed with a thin gold cord. His long black
hair, redolent of cocoa-nut oil, was combed back
"^from the copper-coloured face, and twisted into a
knot, close down to the nape of the neck, protrud-
ing beneath the head gear. In each ear were three
gold rings, studded with coloured stones, and
these ear-rings being fully thirteen inches in
diameter, rested upon the shoulders, a square
piece having been cut out of the lobe of the ear,
to allow the insertion of these ponderous and
barbarous decorations. This mortal had on a
white cotton jacket, open in front, thus exposing
to view his hairy breast, although to one side of the
vest were attached innumerable jewelled buttons ;
round his loins were longitudinally rolled several
yards of white calico, (forming the petticoat or
comboy,) the end of which being brought round
his body, hung down the fi'ont of his person.
The comboy was confined round his loins by a
handkerchief folded crossways, the extremities of
which being pendant at his back, formed a
novel caudal termination, not hitherto mentioned
by naturalists. The comboy reaching to his
ankles, which were guiltless of covering, as well as
his unshod splay feet, which appeared doubly

12 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

brown from being contrasted with the white
petticoat. This gentleman carried in his hand
as a protection against the sun's rays, a Chinese
umbrella, made of black varnished paper, with
a bamboo stick for the handle ; and we do not
think that our visual organs ever beheld a more
ludicrous spectacle than the tout ensemble of this
being presented.

We cannot dwell upon the impression pro-
duced on the minds of those fresh from Europe,
when they gaze for the first time upon a crowd
of half or rather unclothed Asiatics, who throng
around them when they land, some being stimu-
lated by the desire to induce the " steam-boat
gentlemen" to purchase their goods, whilst others,
from mere curiosity and indolence, will stand
staring, open mouthed ; the boys with no other
covering save that which nature has bestowed on
all, namely that of their long hair streaming down
their backs, clamorously asking for pice, or half-
pence.

The Fort of Galle, as the tow^n is called, is
approached by an ancient moss-grown archway,
which, with the ramparts and town, were built
by the Dutch after they had obtained possession
of Galle, A.D, 1640. Tradition affirms that Galle
is indebted for its appellation and symbol — a

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 13

cock — to an error of the Portugese conquerors,
who preceded the Dutch in Ceylon. The natives
named this spot most appropriately, as it is sur-
rounded by rockSj Galla, which is the Cingalese
for rock : but the Portugese confounded this
word with Gall us, or cock. Galle is generally
garrisoned by a company of the " Ceylon Rifles,"
composed of Malays and Kaifres, and a detach-
ment of whatever regiment of the line is on ser-
vice in Ceylon. The uniform of the Ceylon
Rifles is dark green, and the Malays make
tolerably efficient soldiers, (being far more in-
trepid and active than the Kaffi-es,) when com
manded by judicious officers. Under the gate-
way, a sentinel is stationed; and opposite to
the ai'chway, as you enter, is the guard-house,
tenanted either by our own soldiers or by the
Asiatics, as the duty alternates between the
regiment of the line and the Ceylon Rifles. In
the verandah of this building, the soldiers lounge
when off" guard, and if our men are there, they
may be frequently seen enjoying the luxury of a
cheroot with extreme gusto ; but, if the Flifles are
on duty, the Malays and Kaffies are invariably
to be seen masticating a compound of the leaves
and nuts of the areka palm and chunam, bespat-
tering the whole verandah and ground with the

14 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

disgusting red saliva, produced by chewing their
favourite combination called betel.

Situate upon an ascent, a short distance from
the guard-house, is the Queen's house, a gover-
nor's residence, when he visits Galle. This
building was erected in 1687, and over the door-
way the date is inscribed, above which appears
the local symbol — the cock. A verandah ex-
tends the whole length of this residence, which is
shaded by some magnificent trees introduced
from Java by one of the early Dutch governors,
the botanical name of these splendid exotics is
Mimusops Elengi. The ramparts extend about
a mile and a quarter, enclosing the town, which
consists of three principal sti'eets, these being
intersected by several minor ones. The houses
built on either sides of the streets, are but one
story in height — or to speak more correctly, con-
sist merely of ground floors, and, to the best of
our remembrance, there w ere but three residences
at Galle that had an upper story — these were
called an up-stairs. The roofs are tiled, project-
ing beyond the outer walls, being supported by
w^ooden pillars, thus forming a covered balcony,
or verandah, in front of which are suspended
tats, to subdue tlie intense glare of the sun's
beams, and exclude the gaze of the inquisitive

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 15

passers by. These tats, or blinds, are composed
of split reeds, held together by the interlacing of
thin coir or string, and are attached to the roof
of the verandah by rope. The roofs of all domi-
ciles in Ceylon, whether tenanted by Europeans
or Asiatics, slope outwards from the centre walls?
which are considerably higher than the external
ones ; tlie timbers resting upon the walls, leave
a space between the wall-plate and the tiles, for
the admission of air — thus allowing a thorough
current to pass through the residence — and this
arrangement of roof is met with in all tropica
countries. The rooms are usually lofty and large
and, instead of glazed windows, Venetian blinds
are used, doors and windows being alike left
wide open, a white screen being placed before
the former, to prevent the persons and actions of
the inmates being observed by all who choose to
look, and a thin blind of open cane-work is occa-
sionally affixed to the windows. In short, all
privacy and retirement are sacrificed to that great
desideratum in a hot climate — namely, obtaining
and being in as much cool air as possible.

One street in Galle is inhabited principally l)y
Moonnen, some of whom are extremely wealthy,
although the external appearance of their dwell-
ings frequently indicates abject poverty, com-

7

If) CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

bined with uneleanliness. These men traffic m
precious stones, rice, paddy, grain of all descrip-
tions, cottons, prints, hardware, groceries, fruits,
salt, poultry, saltpetre ; in short, in every imagina-
ble commodity whereby money is to be made. In
fact, they even trade in that valuable article itself,
as they lend cash where they believe repayment
is certain, and where they can obtain exorbi-
tant interest — for there are not more avaricious
usurers in the world than the Moormen of
Ceylon.

The town of Galle, although a clean pictur-
esque little spot, has one serious drawback,
namely, the want of pure water; and neither
Europeans nor natives will use the water that is
procured in the fort for drinking or culinary pur-
poses, as it is peculiarly unwholesome. The
prejudice of the natives is carried to so great
an extent, that very few, if any, will lave their
persons with the water that is obtained from the
wells in the fort, as they declare that a disease is
produced by it resembling elephantiasis, which
they call a Galla leg. Water of the best and
purest description is procured in the vicinity of
the fort, and the water-carriers gain a good liveli-
hood by furnishing the inhabitants of the town
with this essential requisite to health and com-
fort.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 17

Within the fort is the Dutch church, which is
used also for the service of the Established
Church, and a Wesley an chapel, the Catholic
places of worship, and the Mahomedans being
situated outside the fort. The pettah or bazaar
— market in our phraseology — is well supplied
with fish, fruits, and vegetables, which are alike
plentiful and cheap, the prices of all edibles being
materially lower than at Colombo, or Kondy.
The trade at Galle is confined principally to the
exports — consisting of native produce, details of
which will be given in a chapter devoted to the
purpose.

Having been informed it was necessary to
secure places in the mail, if we intended proceed-
ing to Colombo, we walked to the coach-office to
take them, and our astonishment was extreme
when we read the following announcement, which
was printed in large type — " Fares from Galle to
Colombo, European gentlemen, £2 lOs. ; Mood-
leors, native noblemen, and their descendants,
£1 10s.; proctors* and natives, £1. Upon in-
quiring, we were informed, there was no outside
or inferior places in the coach, and that the same

* Attorneys are called proctors in the island, and, during
our residence in Ceylon, mostly all belonging to tlie frater-
nity were burghers, or half castes.

18 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

scale of charges was enforced to whatever part
of the island the coach went. In vain we expos-
tulated at this absurdity, trying to convince the
good-humoured proprietor, that our rank cer-
tainly ivas lower than a nobleman, and our
dimensions might be less than those of a proctor,
or native, but, despite our rhetoric, we were
obliged to pay the fare ; for said Mr. Christoffaletz
smiling, and disclosing a set of well-shaped white
teeth, which would be envied by many une belle
dame, " You cannot say you are not a European
gentleman, — can you.?" This argument was con-
clusive, the money was forthwith placed in his
hands.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 19

CHAPTER II.

G'oing to call tlie coach, instead of the coach calling for
you — Preparations for Departure — Description of the
Koyal Mails in Ceylon — The Colomho road — Wild Pea-
cock— Guano — Monkeys — Toddy di-awers — Bentotte —
Eestive horses — Anecdote — Caltiu'a — Beauty of scenery
— Cinnamon plantations — Pagoda tree — The fashionable
quarter of Colombo — Colpetty — The Galle Face — Curious
gazers at new-comers — Ai-rival of the Royal Mail, gives
rise to conjectures as to who the new-comers are, and
wherefore they have come to Ceylon.

The journey from Galle to Colombo occupies
eleven hours, or eleven hours and a half, the
coach usually, or rather nommally, starting at
gun-fire, five o'clock in the morning. It not
unfrequently happens, that the passengers have
to go and call the coach, instead of the coach
calling for them, and this has occurred to our-

20 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

selves more than once whilst resident at Galle ;
for the natives of Ceylon, like most Asiatics,
place little value either on time or punctnalit)\
The gun has fired, — we have walked about,
working ourselves nearly into a state of fusion,
and quite into a very ill-humour, by anathema-
tizing the want of punctuality of the Cingalese,
and at length resolve to sally forth, and ascertain
why the coach has not come for us and our
baggage. We reach the office, the door of which
is closed, the dim light of a cocoa-nut oil lamp is
seen glinnnering through the crevices of the portal.
Not a sound is heard from within the dwell-
ing ; all are, or appear to be, buried in sleep, and
the coach also is in a state of tranquillity, snugly
ensconced in the verandah, and under the vehicle
are comfortably reposing two natives. These
sacrifices to the di'owsy god are regarded by us
as personal insults, especially as we have abridged
our matinal slumbers, for the sake of not keep-
ing the coach waiting for us. Exasperated
beyond endurance, we batter the house-door
lustily for two or three minutes, which at last is
opened by a yawning Cingalese, with hair stream-
ing over his shoulders, who inquires in a sleepy
tone, "what master want?" "Want, eh? that's
too good. Why is not the coach ready that was

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 21

to have called for us at gun-fire ?" The coach
master, being aroused by these noises, comes
forth from his sleeping apartment, and with many
apologies, orders the coach to be prepared forth-
with, calling loudly for the horsekeepers. These
gentlemen are still revelling in the arms of Mor-
pheus under the coach, and, despite the reiterated
shouts of their master, continue to dose. Finding
words useless, and patience exhausted, physical
force is restored to, and, by dint of sundry mani-
pulations in the region of the ribs, the dormant
faculties of the horsekeepers are aroused, and
orders being given in some unintelligible jargon
(to us), away they start in quest of the horses;
the master assisting the remaining awakened do-
mestics to pull the coach out of the verandah.

So soon as the horses are harnessed to the vehi-
cle, the baggage is attempted to be collected, and
although the quantity is short that is allowed to
be carried by each passenger, being but twenty
pounds, the time is long before it can be either
arranged, or placed upon the conveyance, as
each coolee will maintain that he cannot lift a
carpet-bag without assistance, and that a port-
manteau requires the united strength of four of
his brothers in colour and calling. This feat
Accomplished, then ensues the turmoil attendant

22 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

upon placing the baggage, as the sole receptacle
for it is a board about three and a-half feet long,
and a moiety of the width, placed at the back of
the mail coach. On this the luggage rests, one
package being piled upon another, and attached
by pieces of coir passed over and under, crossed
and re-crossed, until all is fairly secured.

As we can well remember the astonishment
with which we gazed upon the primitive machine,
dignified by the name of the " Royal Mail," we
will attempt a description of the same for the
edification, and we trust amusement, of our peru-
sers. The royal mails in Ceylon are placed upon
four wheels, and look like— what ? — nothing to be
seen in Europe now, but the vehicles have a
slight affinity with, and bear a faint resemblance
to, the lower half of an antiquated English stage
coach, cutting off the upper half, and detaching
the doors. The seat for the driver is attached to
the coach, so that his back, and those of the pas-
sengers on the front seat, touch. The roof is
made of leather, painted white and varnished,
lined with cotton, and supported by four slender
iron rods, which shake with every jolt of the
coach. To this roof, leathern curtains are liung,
which can be either drawn to protect the passen-
gers from the sun or rain, or rolled up to admit a

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 23

free passage to the air. The roof of this antedi-
luvian production projects over the driving seat,
thus covering seven persons, namely, the passen-
gers in the body of the conveyance, the driver,
and whoever may be seated at his side, and the
horsekeeper, who indiscriminately perches him-
self on the top of the luggage, stands on the
fixed protruding iron step, or clings to any part
of the vehicle most convenient to seize hold of.
Picture this machine badly painted, lined with
leather filthily dirty, and worn into holes, from
which the stuffing, made from cocoa-nut fibre,
starts forth. Put this on a carriage, with four
wheels of various colours, with two horses badly
fed, and worse groomed, caparisoned with worn
harness, the buckles and straps of which are
replaced with fragments of coir rope, and you will
have some remote idea of the royal mails in the
Island of Ceylon.

Let us now suppose all minor obstacles sur-
mounted, such as dilatory drivers, and refractory
horses, and we fairly clear of Galle, en route for
Colombo, the seat of government. The morning
breeze is cool, the grey light soothing and pleasant,
and our good-humour restored, we are prepared to
gaze around, and note all worthy of observation.

We were particularly struck in the tropics

24 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

by the non-existence of twilight, for almost
immediately the sun sets it is dark, and in
the absence of the moon continues so, until he
re-appears. The coach proceeds leisurely on its
way, and soon our eyes are gladdened by the
glorious spectacle of the sim's rising — as gra-
dually Phoebus appears above the bed of waters,
on which he casts the effulgence of his beams.
Now his rays are thrown upon a grove of waving
palms, anon they rest upon the roof of a hut,
like a coquettish beauty bestowing bright glances
on all around. Soon we encounter a strange-
looking vehicle, somewhat like a two-wheeled
tilted cart, with a thatched semicircular hood, a
white cloth being hung up at either end, to pre-
vent inquisitive eyes fi'om prying into the interior.

This machine is drawn by one or two oxen, and
in answer to our inquiries we learn that it is
called a bullock-bandy, and contains Moorwomen,
who have been, or are going to the bathing-place.

The rumbling of the coach will occasionally
rouse a family, (as many of the natives sleep in
the verandah, instead of their dwellings, for the
benefit of the cool air,) and, as they indolently
lift their heads, will gaze upwards, and finding
that day has positively set in, will slowly rise
from the ground on which their sleeping mats

CEYLON AND THE CINHALESE. 25

have been spread. Along the coast, ahnost close
to the sea, the screw-pine (Panclaenus) flourishes
in extreme luxuriance ; and, as the whole shore is
planted with cocoa-nut trees, which droop over
the road, the lover of nature pursues his way with
feelings of intense gratification, especially when
he gazes upon the waving palms above his head,
then upon the blue ocean, upon whose surface
the sun's young beams are reflected. The
prospect is so exquisitely lojrely, that it appears
more like enchantment, or a dream of fairy land,
than sober reality. Upon reaching Gindura, the
coach is placed in a boat, and ferried across the
river, and this spot is also a scene of surpassing
beauty. On the bosom of the tranquil stream,
floats the pink lotus, the tulip-shaped flower, being
enshrined amongst the broad green leaves ; Areca
palms (Areca catechu) waving over, and drooping
into the river, and here and there a flowering
shrub of gorgeous hue, intermixed among the
stately trees clothed in their vee.Lure of brilliant
green.

Within a short distance of the opposite side of
the ferry, the constantly-varying panorama of
nature, becomes, if possible, still more enchant-
ing: the boundless ocean, with its ever-changing
hues on one side, its white spray dashing over

yoL, I. c

26 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the rocks, witli the dense groves of noble trees on
the other, are alike sublimely beautiful. Cocoa-
nut trees planted on either side of the road, bend
towards each other, forming a shady avenue
through which the coach passes.

Occasionally young plantations of papns, the
leaves spreading out thickly in an irregular fan-like
form from the root, will greet the eye, contrasting
finely with the older trees, whose slender naked
tall trunks are surmounted by a crown-like diadem
of leaves.

Startled by the sound of the coach-wheels, a
peacock, with a shrill scream, will take flight, his
gorgeous plumage glittering in the sun, as he
wings his flight upwards, or he may wend his
way to a noble ebony tree, and alighting there,
will proudly raise his crested head, the feathers
of his drooping tail intermingling with the luxu-
riant foliage of the splendid tree. Sometimes a
guano (a species of lizard,) will cross the road in
pursuit of his prey, whose short clumsy legs, and
slothful ungainly movements, seem ill calculated
to enable him to pursue, or enti-ap a more agile
creature. But see — he has marked that beautiful
little squirrel as his victim : how nimbly the reptile
is ascending the tree after the poor little animal,
his clumsy legs move quickly enough now —
luckily the agile fellow has seen him, and with a

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 27

bound to another tree, gets clear of his pursuer.
These hideous reptiles are amphibious, and we
have seen several that measured more than five
feet from the snout to the tip of the tail, and it is
affirmed they possess such strength in that part,
that with one blow of their tail a man's leg will
be broken. They are likewise omnivorous, for
they will alike steal and devour your fowls and
your fruit.

Indulging in gambols on the boughs of the treess
that skirt the road-side, are to be seen monkeys,
of every size, and of numerous species, which in
the very wantonness of sport, will pluck a young
cocoa-nut, and dash it on the earth ; then run
along the ropes that attach one tree to the other,
performing again the same mischievous antic,
despite the threatening gestures of the toddy-
drawers, who have, for their convenience, thus
linked the trees together. It would be impossi-
ble to travel seven miles in Ceylon, much less
seventy, the distance fi-om Galle to Colombo,
without seeing toddy-drawers pursuing their
calling, and the first time we saw the operation
was during the journey now alluded to. The
liquor is obtained from the flower of the cocoa-
nut palm, (Cocos nucifera,) in its fresh state
being called toddy, which is a sweet refreshing

c 2

28 L'EYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

beverage ; when fcmiented, it becoines arrack,
the intoxicating qualities of which are well
known. The ascent of the tree is thus accom-
plished : the toddy-drawer knots a piece of rope
into a circle, passing his ankles through it, and
the resistance offered by the ligature enables
him to press the soles of his feet against the
naked trunk of the tree, precluding the possibility
of slipping down whilst in the act of climbing,
the toddy-chatty, or jar, being slung at his back.
When the summit of the tree is reached where
the flower is, the man cuts off the end, suspend-
ing the chatty to the orifice from whence the
liquid flows, binding the blossom tightly above
the incision. Some of the full-grown trees will
yield from one to two hundred pints per diem ;
])ut the trees that are tapped never bear fruit.

To the tops of the toddy -trees, the drawers attach
ropes, to enable them to move from one to the
other, without the trouble of descending and
ascending ; and, although it is most unpleasant to
see these men clinging with hands and feet,
whilst pursuing their aerial way, comparatively
but few accidents occur. When one does hap-
i)en, it is usually fatal, as the height of the palms
to which these ropes are attached, varies from
sixty to one hundred feet. The appearance of a

6

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 25)

fresh-drawn chatty of toddy is exceedingly
agreeable, as the form of the red clay jar approaches
the classical ; the foaming frothing liquid over-
flowing the brim, and hanging in creamy dro])s
around the vessel ; moreover, the toddy-drawers
twine scarves about their brows, to protect them
from the sun's rays, carrying their burthen upon
their turbaned heads, thus completing their re-
semblance to the figures of antiquity.

To speak technically, the coach breakfasts at
Bentotte at ten o'clock ; but, as drivers and horses
in Ceylon are equally erratic and self-willed in
their movements, the hour varies according to
tlieh- tempers and inclinations. All the inns, or
rest-houses, as they are called in Ceylon, are Go-
vernment property, and the men placed in them
are only legally permitted to charge twenty-five
per cent, above the market prices, for the provi-
sions supplied by them, but we never found in
our peregrinations, these gentry content with this
ample per centage, but, like all other innkeepers,
be they in Europe, Asia, or Africa, (for we
cannot speak from personal knowledge of
America) took every advantage, making tra-
vellers pay as much as possible for the slightest
refreshment, or smallest accommodation. Ben-
totte is a lovely spot, and the rest-house fur

30 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Ceylon, is tolerably good, that is to say, the roof
does not admit the pitiless storm, or the sun's rays ;
neither are there holes in the doors to admit when
closed, pariah dogs, rejjtiles and rats, and there
are a table, a chair, and a bedstead, guiltless of
Mosquito curtains, however, in one of the
sleeping-rooms. This we can vouch was the case
when we left Ceylon, but dejjonent cannot adduce
lirirther evidence as to the furniture in the other
apartments of the building. Oysters are obtained
here from the river, and, although their appear-
ance, size, and colour, which is of a purplish tint,
differ materially from our own, the flavour is
good. It is rather remarkable that in no other
]nxrt, through which this river flows, nor fi-om
whence it has its source, are oysters to be met
with, Bentotte being the sole place.

Again, the coach has to be placed in a boat
to be ferried over the stream, and, upon reaching
the shore, we were highly diverted at witnessing
the attempts made by several horse-keepers, to
harness two restive horses, and attach them to
the Mail, the driver warning them, speaking or
rather shouting at the highest pitch of his voice,
to hold " Peter Layard's head and keep clear
of Dr. Prin's heels," and requesting us to take
our seats as quickly^ as possible. The scene that

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 31

ensued is beyond our powers of description, con-
sequently we think it better to narrate verbatim
the adjurations the driver bestowed upon the
horses, endeavouring, by defective spelling, to
imitate the half-caste's broken English.

" Now, genel-men, is you seated in the cocJi,
cos if you is, the osses shall be put to." An
affirmative being returned, some orders being-
given by the driver in Cingalese to the horse-
keepers, adding in English, " We shall be soon off
now, as you is ready." But the horses were not
as ready to go as we were, and after some diffi-
culty one was harnessed to the coach, the other
creature's head being held securely by two horse-
keepers, whilst two others dragged, more than led,
the animal towards the vehicle and attached the
traces, the horse rearing and plunging, as much
as it was possible, with two men holding his
head. During the hazardous perfonnance of
putting the horses to the coach, the driver placed
his feet firmly against the splash-board, grasping
his whip, with a most determined expression of
countenance, whilst we watched the whole pro-
ceedings in a state of delightful expectation.
At length the operation was achieved, and no
sooner was the last trace buckled, than the horse-
keepers let go the animal's head, rushing on

32 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

either side of his path, with the celerity of an
arrow sent from a well-strung bow. Tliis horse
plunged violently forwards, whilst iJie other
planted his four feet firmly in the loose ground,
evincing a resolute determination not to move
one inch either for entreaty or castigation.

Now commenced a resolute battle for mastery
between the horses and the driver, who thus alter-
aiately addressed each. " Peter Layard yer brute,
kirn up yer ill-tempered lazy thing — yer vont,
rout yer V Thump, bump on the creature's back
went the butt end of the whip, the driver stand-
ing up to give greater force to the blows. " Dr.
Prins, yer ivillin, do yer vant to hrek the cocJi to
bits ? is eels lill be in my tnout in minit.'''' (They
were battering away at the splash-board.)
"Peter Layard, yer hugly beast, kim up, if yer
doesn''t — " Another heavy blow, which com-
bined with the implied threat had the desired
effect, for off started both horses at full gallop,
rushing close to a hut, the wheels grazing the
dwelling, and catching the screen made of
platted cocoa-nut leaves, and dragging it away.
" Now, ^ew6^/-men," said the driver, "«£;e shall </o
along boo-tifu\, its honhj at fust starting that we
uve a bit of bother, I dunt mind these osses
when we hant got lady passengers, for they do

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 33

squeal so ; when Dr. Prins begins is tricks, that it's
puts me hoid. You see ere we /<«/-vays call the
osses halter the genel-raen we buys 'em on, for
whoever as a bad oss he sells he to us ; we giv
£15 for Dr. Prins, and £18 for Peter Layard,
but he is a good un to go though he is hugly,
and fights shy of his work atfusi ; but as for Dr.
Prins, he is not worth alf the money, for he is
a arty feeder, werry lazy, werry ivicious, and
werry often kicks over the traces." Although we
cannot vouch for the gastronomic capabilities of
the quadruped Dr. Prins, we can bear testimony
to the driver's veracity, as regards the three latter
propensities of the animal.

The noble stream, the Kalloo Ganga, has yet
to be crossed, and again the ferry boat is freight-
ed with the Royal Mail and its cargo. The
river divides Caltura from Pantura, the former
place being celebrated for its pure water, and
^salubrity, and, before the discovery of Newera
Ellia, was regarded as the Sanitorium of Ceylon,
The scenery about Caltura is lovely in the ex-
treme, (almost equalling that around Galle,
though of a less bold and imposing character,)
the banks of the river being wooded down to the
water's edge with stately palms, noble bread-
fruit, tamarind, and jack trees. Scattered be

c 5

34 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

tween these majestic specimens of vegetation,
is the pomegranate-tree with its bright scarlet
flowers, the cinamon-laurel with its delicate white
blossom, and the tube-rose shrub, loading the atmo-
sphere with the fragrant aroma of their flowers.
On the ]3ellucid rippling waters float luxuriant
aquatic plants, the numerous white water-lilies,
and pink lotuses being entwined with a small
creeper, the elegant blossom of which resembles
our own " forget-me-not " in size and colour.

From Caltiu'a to Colombo, the hand of nature
and of art appear to combine to make the vista
as glorious as it is possible to conceive ; the
distant view of lofty mountains, and rich groves
of trees, and palm-shaded bungalows, situate in
the midst of cultivated gardens, radiant with the
gorgeous hues of the tropical flowers. Combine
this with the heaving ocean, on the bosom of
which float numberless fishing canoes ; the yel-
low sandy beach, glittering with the bright scales
of the newly-caught members of the finny tribe ;
and all must admit the scene to be one of sur-
passing sublimity and loveliness. For some
miles, as you approach Colombo, the road runs
between cinnamon-plantations, the dark shining
leaves of the laurel contrasting exquisitely with
the pearly hue of the blossom ; but the shrub

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 35

is clad in its greatest beauty when it first puts
forth its pristine vesture, the young leaves then
being of a pale delicate yellowish green, streaked
with bright red.

On the right-hand side of the road, (near to
the tamarind- tree, where the elite of the colony
go about six o'clock in the morning, to drink
fresh toddy,) grows one of the most magnificent
pagoda, or banian trees (Ficus indica) imagin-
able.* The foliage of this tree is splendid,
and it bears a minute fig-shaped, scarlet-coloured
fruit; nevertheless the principal beauty consists in
the innumerable fibres sent forth by the branches,
which enlarge as they reach the earth, and there
take root, fonning a complete grove, or series of
trees ; these fibres in their tm'n producing shoots,
which will again multiply and take root ; and it
is asserted, that in the province of Guzerat, one
of these trees measures more than two thousand
feet in circumference, near the bottom of the
stems, the branches of which naturally cover a
much larger space. Although the tree we allude

* This tree is considered sacred by all Brahmins, who
affirm the God Vishnu was born under it, and that tlie
chai'acteristics of the deity are emhlcmized in the tree. The
Bo-tree (Ficus religioso) is held sacred by all Buddhists,
Buddhism being the national religion of Ceylon.

36 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

to, on the Colombo Road, does not cover near
the same extent of ground, we can speak as to
its beauty, more especially after dusk, when its
numberless dark leaves are illuminated by myri-
ads of fire-flies, (Elater noctilicus,) whose quick
flitting movements dazzle and delight the be-
holder.

In Colpetty, (the fashionable quarter of Co-
lombo,) large bungalows, (dwellings on the
ground floor,) surrounded by highly-cultivated
compounds or gardens, become more fiequent,
and occasionally a palaiiqueen carriage will be
met, in which recline one or two European
ladies, hastening to make some purchases in the
fort before the shops close, which they invariably
do by half-past five or six at the latest. Then
the Galle Face, the Hyde Park of the colony, is
attained ; the fresh sea-breeze, as it blows over the
greensward, cooling the heated traveller's brow,
vehicles of all descriptions are met, from the hac-
cary of the native, drawn by a bullock, to the
carriage of one of England's merchant-princes,
to which a high-bred Arab horse is attached, the
inmates of all these conveyances alike bestow-
ing inquisitive looks upon the passengers in the
Royal Mail ; and, w'hen a sti'ange face is dis-
covered, every attitude and gesture of the starers

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 37

evince the utmost curiosity ; for, believe us, no
new arrival in a country village, or town in Eng-
land, no presentation at a drawing-room, of beauty
or bride, causes so great a sensation, as a new
arrival in a colony. For in a colony everybody
troubles his or her head with every one else's
business, most philanthropically at times neglect-
ing his or her own affairs to attend to other people's.
The Mail is now at the end of the Galle Face,
now it rattles over the drawbridge of the fortifica-
tions ; now it is under the archway ; now it
has entered the Fort ; and now it jingles and
rattles down the principal street of the " Fort
of Colombo, " many of the inhabitants, of all
shades of colour and denominations, being on
the qui vive to see " who is in the Mail."

So soon as the last passenger and his small quan-
tum of luggage have been disposed of, the Royal
Mail jolts and jumbles to its own halting-place,
the driver retailing every look and observation
of the passengers, with, at times, sundry addi-
tions and embellishments, spreading the news
also, that one or more ^^ strange Englis' genel-
men " were come to the colony, and where they
have been domiciled. Every eager listener then
gives an opinion concerning the new-comer's

.38 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

profession, or avocation, surmising how niucli
each individual may gain by, or be interfered
with, in his peculiar calling by this, or those
" strange English gentlemen."

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 39

CHAPTER III.

Colombo — Harbour — Custom-house — Animated scene —
Derivation of the name of the Port— Fortifications— Troops
-Queen's House — PubUc offices in the Fort — Pettah —
Native traders — Chiu'ches, chapels, religious and chari
table institutions— Public offices in the Pettah— Native
police— Slave Island— Galle Face— Colonial manners—
The effect of climate upon the female character — The
fashionable drive — Beauty of the spot— Sunset— Sea-
breezes — Evening — Fire-flies — Cinnamon — Tribute de-
manded by the Portuguese — Cultivation introduced by the
Dutch— Value of the monopoly to the Dutch and Englisli
governments — Description of the slmib — Uses of every
portion of the cinuamou-laurel — Peeling knives— Nvmi-
ber of crops in the year— Preparing the spice— Challias,
or cinnamon peelers — Punkahs — The result of an unex
pected downfall — Dessert — Crows, their boldness and
audacity.

Colombo is alike the seat of the colonial go-
verament, and the capital of the maritime pro-

40 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

vinces, being situate in lat. 6° 57" north, and long.
79*^ 50" east. Tlie iiarbour is semicircular, but
only boats and very small craft can find reluge
within it, vessels of any size being compelled
to anchor in the roads, from one to two miles
distant from the shore. Extreme caution is re-
quisite in piloting a ship into Colombo roads, as
there are sunken rocks, sand banks, and a coral
reef, and the vraves break heavily on the bar
during the prevalence of certain winds.

The principal part of the export and import trade
is carried on at this port, consequently, the scene
at the Custom-house, during the hours of business,
is one of great activity and excitement. Coolees,
carrying bags of coffee, bales of goods, casks of
cocoa-nut oil, bundles of the fibre, baskets of the
nuts, packages of cinnamon, and sacks of grain, —
hustle each other, whilst the shrill cry of the
bullock-driver, as he attempts to clear a passage
for his heavily-laden waggon, or bandy, serves
only to make " confusion more confounded."

During the time this is being enacted at one
part of the quay, boats loaded with various com-
modities, either endeavouring to land the articles,
or take them to the outward-bound ships, are
trying to leave or approach the small landing-
pier ; and, as the tawny boatmen pursue their

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 41

task, sing at the top of their voices a monotonous
song. Occasionally a wave will break over the
boat; then ensue shouts and exclamations not in-
tended for ears polite, from the cnnicople, or man
in charge of the merchandize, as he urges the row-
ers to perform their task with greater caution
and celerity.

Colombo is mentioned in Cingalese historical
annals, about a.d. 49(), where it is recorded that
one of their kings, Moongaallonoo, there erected
" warlike defences." Tradition declares that Ca-
lamha derived its name from a grove of mangoe
trees, called also Calamha in Cingalese; but, in one
of the most ancient native works extant, we read
that Calamha signifies a sea-port, and a fortified
place. What the origin of the cognomen may
have been, can be a matter of little import, but
it is quite certain that the Portuguese conquerors
coiTupted or changed the name of the spot from
Calamha to Colombo, in honour of their cele-
brated navigator, Columbus. In 1505, the Por-
tuguese visited this port, and obtained permission
to traffic with the natives ; disputes ensued, and
we find that in 1518 the Portuguese had taken
possession of Colombo, and commenced erecting
the fortifications. The Fort is built on a small
promontory, which is washed by the sea for more

42 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

than half its extent, and was completed by the
Dutch after they had expelled the Portuguese,
and could contahi, on an emergency, nine or ten
thousand souls. The extent of the fortifications
exceeds one mile and a half, the ramparts being
well constructed, having eight chief bastions and
several minor ones, with banquets, parapets, &c.,
&c., communicating one with the other, mounting
125 guns and six mortars. The Fort is garrisoned
by European troops, the number of which vary,
the Cejdon Rifles and gun-lascars being stationed
outside the Fort, in a spot called Slave Island.
When the governor is a military man, he has the
command of the troops ; but, when his Excellency
is a civilian, like the present Governor, Vis-
count Torrington, the commander of the forces
is usually a major-general.

The principal street in the Fort is called
(^ueen Street, and in this street, which is re-
markably wide, and kept scrupulously clean,
stands the Queen's or Government House, the gar-
dens of which are laid out with great care ; for a
specimen of almost every flowering shrub or plant
indigenous to the island, is to be found in them.
In the rear of Government House stands the
Ijighthouse, the height of which is ninety-six
l^eet above the level of the ocean, and sailors

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 43

affirm that in clear weather this building can
be discerned from an almost incredible distance
at sea. Near to the Queen's House are situ-
ated the various military and civil offices, one
of the English churches, that of the Scotch
Presbyterians, the Banks, General Post Office,
Normal School, and the ]irincipal Library. From
Queen Street, several side streets branch off,
the minor ones crossing at right angles, and
in these are situated the Military Hospital,
the Medical Museum and Libraiy, with ware-
houses and shops. All the European com-
mercial houses carry on their business within
the Fort, be their trade wholesale or retail, but
all the merchants and nearly every one of the
shopkeepers reside elsewhere.

Without the Fort, an extensive trade is earned
on in every saleable article, both of native and
foreign origin, by the Moormen, whose shops
and stores are situated in the Pettah, the main
street of which is one continuous line of shops
and warehouses. Every imaginable commo-
dity is here to be procured, from a lady's bon-
net to a ship's anchor, from a paper of pins
to a marlin-spike, from a bottle of pickles to a
saddle, fr-om a web of fine muslin to strong
canvass for sails ; in short, it would be impos-

44 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

sible to enumerate ^Yllat these men have for
sale, and equally impracticable to say what
they have not. Moreover, we can positively
aihrm, these traders vend their goods at one
half the price, that is demanded at the principal
European shop in the Fort. In the Pettah is
situated the chief bazaar for edibles of every
description ; and here also reside the greater
number of the burghers, or half-castes ; in the
streets that break off from the main street, and
in the abodes of these people, is fi"equently to
be seen some of the most exquisitely-carved
ebony furniture conceivable, the designs, usually
of fruit and flowers, being chiselled out with
the utmost accuracy, depth, and sharpness.

Adjoining the Pettah are places of worship for
the English, Portuguese, and Dutch protestants,
belonging to the established church, and in the
church of the last are deposited the remains of
all the Dutch governors who have died in the
island. The Wesleyans, Baptists, and Roman
Catholics, have also their chapels, the Mahome-
dans their mosque, and the Brahmins their
temple, the walls of which are decorated with
carvings of elephants, lions, and tigers. In
this district is situated the buildings that belong
to the Society for tlu Propagation of the Gospel,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 45

Promoting Christian Knowledge, Bible Associa-
tion, Church Missionaries, Colombo Friend in
Need, Government Schools, the Leper and
Pauper Hospitals, the Dispensary, and other
charitable institutions. The Supreme Court
House, the District Court of Colombo, the Court
of Requests, Police Office, Cutcheny, and Fiscals'
Office, are all outside the Fort.

Public order is maintained (to a very limited
extent, however,) by a body of native police,
who are similarly organized to those of our
Metropolitan force, and are under the superin-
tendence— or were so when we left Colombo — of
two most efficient superintendants. But zealous
as Messrs. Thomson and Colpepper were in the
discharge of their duties, they were not ubiqui-
tous, and, as soon as they had left a street or
district to visit another, the gTeater number of
the policemen would sit down in some shady
nook, commence chewing betel, and eventually
indulge in a siesta, until roused by the visit of
their superior officer, or relieved ft'om their active
occupation by a brother dozer. This efficient (.?)
force are clothed in the same dress as the London
police, with the exception of the liat, a peaked
cap being substituted, and the effect produced b\-
tlie latter is most ludicrous, as their long hair is

46 cp:ylon and the Cingalese.

twisted into a knot above the nape of the neck,
and on this the cap rests. Their European attire
also is ill calculated either for the climate or for
their comfort, the stiff collar, tight coat and
trousers, being most distasteful to those Avho have
been habituated, from infancy, to the loose gar-
ments of the Asiatics, and their clothing is as
little conducive to their health as it is to their
ease.

The artificial lake of Colombo runs at the back
of the Fort, and Sir Edward Barnes, during his
Governorship, caused a lock to be constructed,
whereby the inland navigation is carried to the
sea. A small slip of land lies in the centre of
the lake, named Slave Island, so called by the
Portuguese and Dutch, who used here to lock up
the government slaves after their day's labour.
A certain space was enclosed, around which huts
were built, these dwellings being surrounded by
a lofty wall, the gates of which were fastened at
sunset, and unclosed at sunrise. Since the aboli-
tion of slavery, all these buildings have been
demolished, barracks for the Ceylon Rifles, and
tasteful bungalows for Europeans, having been
erected in their stead.

One portion of Slave Island has the advantage
of the sea-breezes, being only separated from the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 47

ocean by an isthmus, called the Galle Face, and
this is the fashionable drive or resort in the
evening, from the hours of five until seven.
When we first arrived in Colombo, we felt much
astonished at finding but few external marks of
respect paid to the governor. For instance, his
Excellency's carriage would drive round the
Galle Face, and scarcely a hat would be raised
as he passed, although some of the heads on
which the hats rested belonged to civilians, some
of them high in the government service j or to
merchants, who, from their birth, education, and
position, as members of the legislative council,
ought to have felt it their bounden duty to have
rendered " honour to whom honour was due."
Surely it cannot be derogatory to any man, how-
ever high his station or birth, to evince, by a
courteous demeanour, proper respect for the
individual who is deemed a fit and proper person
by his sovereign, to hold the reins of govern-
ment. It has been previously remarked, by those
who have resided in colonies, that generally the
tone of conduct of most colonists is one of
assumption ; and, as far as our own experience
permits us to form an opinion, we coincide
heartily in this observation, as too many endea-
vour to assume a position that can only belong
to the Governor, and act as if they believed that

48 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

undue familiarity and disrespectful demeanour to
superiors, would ensure the social position they
were endeavouring to usurp. Although we thus
contemn the manners of men, we regret to say
that numbers of our fair countrywomen lose
many attractive attributes fi'om a residence in a
colony, or presidency. We believe a lengthened
sojourn in the East to be as prejudicial to the
mental as it is to the physical powers of the
female sex, the climate alike enervating body and
mind, rendering the one incapable of taking suffi-
cient exercise to preserve health, and the other of
pursuing those studies that eidarge its own capa-
bilities. Thus, after a comparatively short resi-
dence in India, China, or Ceylon, a woman loses
her vivacity, the princijjal part of her beauty, the
whole of her energy, becoming equally disinclined
to corporeal or mental exertion. The routine of
a lady's existence has but little variety under a
tropical sun ; the greater part of the morning is
passed reclining on a coucli, en dishabille, being
fanned by an Ayah, who tries to amuse her mis-
tress by relating the occurrences that take place
in the abodes of her acquaintance, this gossip
being duly embellished with scandal. After tiffin,*
the fair dame will either receive or pay morning

■\- The mid-day meal, denoniinated liiuclieou in England,
in the East is called tiffin.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 49

visits, when more gossip and scandal are indulged
in ; or she will read some silly tale of excitement
to beguile the time, or soothe her to sleep. For
seldom, we grieve to say, is any intellectual occupa-
tion pursued that tends to strengthen the mind.

About four o'clock the fair one retires to make
an elaborate toilette for the evening drive, or to
" don equestrian gear ;" in either case, the attire
of every friend that she meets is severely criti-
cised, and wonder expressed as to how their hus-
bands can afford to supply them with this
expensive finery, feeling quite sure they must be
over head and ears in debt, strangely forgetting
that, in all probability, she, the censurer of ex-
travagance, has assisted in, if not insisted upon,
incurring debts, which may preclude the pos-
sibility of her own spouse returning to his
native land for many long years. Add to this
flirtation which, if practised in England, would
not be tolerated, and a slight idea may be formed
of female occupations in a presidency, or eastern
colony. Let it, however, be distinctly understood
that we do not thus condemn the conduct of all
ladies who sojourn in presidencies, or colonies ;
far be it from oiu- intention so to do, for we have
known women who were as good wives and
mothers, and as valuable members of society in

VOL. I. D

50 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

every respect, bestowing attention alike on their
domestic duties, and the cultivation of their
minds, with the same assiduity they did, or would
have done in Europe. Nevertheless, truth com-
pels us, although we feel a pang of regret whilst
penning the line, to say, such estimable women
as these cannot be regarded as specimens of the
female character when removed fi-om the whole-
some restraints of English society, and enervated,
if not demoralized, by the luxuries and customs
of the East.

About half-past five o'clock, the Galle Face, or
Hyde Park of Colombo, begins to wear an ani-
mated appearance, there being many vehicles
and horses in motion, although the majority of
the fair occupants of carriages and saddles, are
alike listless in demeanour, and the eye of the
stranger seeks, and seeks in vain, for the clear
complexion, roseate hue of cheek and lip, viva-
cious expressive countenance, and sparkling
eyes, which are so pleasingly characteristic of
Albion's daughters. Every description of con-
veyance is to be seen driving round the Galle
Face, from the Long Acre built carriage of the
governor, the dashing phaeton of the wealthy
merchant, the unassuming gig, the country-built
palanqueen, and the humble bandy. The horses

G

1

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 51

that draw these vehicles are invariably attended
by their keepers, (grooms being called horse-
keepers in Ceylon,) who run by the side of the
conveyance, when a gentleman, or coachman
drives ; at other times, they lead the animal, ac-
commodating their pace to that of the horse.

These men wear a sort of livery, their turbans
and loose clothing being composed of bright
tinted, or white calico, the colours varying ac-
cording to the taste or fancy of their employer,
and many of their costumes are both pleasing
and picturesque, adding materially to the strange-
ness of the scene. The view from, and of the
Galle Face, is absolutely entrancing to the lover
of nature, for cast the eyes where you will, the
gaze is involuntarily arrested by the extreme
beauty of the surrounding scenery. There lies
the boundless ocean, with a ship in full sail
gliding over its undulating surface, the canoes of
the natives lightly floating on, and skimming
over its waters, whilst the waves curvetting and
rolling, dash in a shower of white foam on to the
shore. Bordering the beach is the carnage-drive,
which encompasses greensward, whereon high-
bred Arab horses are bounding and prancing, in
the full enjoyment of exuberaiit health and ex-
istence. On the opposite side is the race-course,

D 2

52 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

over whose variegated turf the steeds are caricol-
ing m high glee, whilst the carriage-drive that
divides the race-course from the greensward is
thronged with carriages of every shape and de-
scrii;tion, principally, if not entirely, occupied by
Eurojjeans, whilst the fantastically-clad Eastern
attendants run at the horses' head, or at the side
of the vehicle.

At the baclv of the race-course flows the lake
of Colombo, the banks being studded with
drooping palms, whose branches overshadow
the clear waters, on which float the pink lotus,
and white lily — whilst a bungalow, the verandah
of which is overgrown with graceful creepers, the
grounds belonging to it being filled with gorgeous-
coloured flowering shrubs, complete the vista of
loveliness on that side. Looking from the bun-
galow, with nought to impede the view, save the
stand on the race-course, you can distinctly see
the grey time-mossed ranjparts of the Fort of
Colombo.

In due time, smiset arrives, — then how glo-
riously the planet sinks into the bosom of the
sea, in majestic tranquillity, as his parting beams
illumine the gi'een waters, on which they glitter
in thousands of sparkling rays, whilst over the
azure vault of heaven float violet, crimson, and

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 53

golden-tinted clouds, which, as you gaze, fade
away, in ever-varying tints. No language can
describe the gorgeous, glorious, magnificent beauty
of the sun's rising and setting in the tropics ;
the constantly-changing and numberless hues
which tinge the clouds in constant succession,
are beyond the powers of language of the orator,
the pen of the scribe, or the pencil of the painter,
to delineate. See Sol is now dipping ; he almost
appears to be toying with the waters, into whose
bosom he is sinking, and on which he throws his
lurid beams. How gloriously refulgent is the
sun's hue, how noble and clearly defined is the
arch ! Gradually he sinks lower — lower — low^er —
and now he has gone to illumine another quarter
of the globe, and cast around his life-imparting
beams.

After sunset, the sea breezes become most re-
freshing, and, as they are wafted across the
waters, their delicious coolness invigorates the
wearied frame, exhausted by the depressing heat
of the atmosphere during the day. The eques-
trians now seem to be more at their ease, tlie
gentlemen indulging in occasional vigorous
gallops, the ladies putting their steeds into u
gentle canter, the inmates of the carriages appear
to be somewhat less listless, and will gaze

54 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

around, or enter into conversation with some
degi'ee of animation ; possibly a cavalier will
arrest the horse's progress to salaam his fair
owner, and retail, or inquire the last on-dits,
as he leans on the carriage-door.

In the same ratio as Europeans enjoy the cool
breezes, so do the Asiatics dislike them, and
frequently the horse-keepers will cast an implor-
ing look into the vehicle, giving a slight shiver?
their countenances clearly implying "this may be
sport to you, but 'tis death to us." As the
shades of evening advance, gradually the Galle
Face becomes deserted, and, long before night-
fall, the neighing of the horses and the rum-
bling of wheels are no more heard, the only
sounds greeting the ear being the soughing of
the night-breeze and the breaking of tlie waves
on the shingly beach. When night has thrown
her sable mantle o'er the earth, the aspect of the
scene changes, for over the lake hover myriads
of fire-flies, clouds of them flitting about in the
air, then alighting on the waving leaves of the
palms, causing the foliage to appear illuminated.
Some few will settle on the floating leaves of
the lotus, two or three will creep into the flower,
sparkling like brilliants, then more of these lu-
minous insects will alight on other aquatic plants,

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 55

and the waters will glisten with a million minute
specks of light. Then, innumerable numbers
will wing their flight upwards until the air
appears replete with a shower of the moon's
beams. Many will then settle, possibly on a
tall banana ; the outline of the gigantic graceful
leaves being distinctly defined by the dazzling
specks of fire upon them. Nought can be ima-
gined more exquisitely lovely than this varied
natural panorama ; and although in the moun-
tainous parts of the island, the face of nature
may assume a sublimer aspect, never does she
wear a more pleasing, characteristic, and truly
oriental one, than in tlie vicinity of the Galle
Face of Colombo.

The cinnamon-gardens in the neighbourhood
of Colombo are the most extensive in the island ;
and, although the beauty and fragrance of the
shrub are much exaggerated, still the plantations
present a most pleasing spectacle. It has been
asserted by many, and still is by some, that the
aroma of the spice is perceptible at sea, even
when a vessel is some miles distant from the
" Cinnamon isle :" this statement is as complete
a delusion as can well be imagined, for, if the
effluvia of cinnamon is apparent at sea, it is when
the captain or some one else on board the vessel

56* CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

lias rubbed a portion of tlie iVagrant oil upon the
sails, to mystify travellers. We admit that an
aromatic effluvia is diffused, whilst the operation
of peeling is being carried on, but this odour is
only apparent close to the spot where the cin-
namon-peeler is performing his task ; and were
every bush in the island to be barked simulta-
neously, we are perfectly convinced the smell
would not be felt a mile on land from where the
w'ork Avas being effected, and that it would be
a perfect impossibility, for the scent of the shrub
so to mingle with the atmosphere as to be per-
ceived at sea.

Cavilists have recently endeavoured to prove
the Laurus cinnamomum not to be indigenous,
])ut that it was introduced into Ceylon by some
of the early traders, assigning as their most
cogent reason, that the early Roman and Greek
writers, when speaking of the products of Tra-
pabane (Ceylon) do not enumerate cinnamon
among them ; strangely, in our opinion, over-
looking, that although not mentioned indivi-
dually, this spice may have been included among
the imnd)erless fragrant productions, for which
this island was celebrated. To pursue this sub-
ject farther, or 'to attempt to prove by quoting
authorities, and using arguments that we are

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 57

borne out in asserting the Lanrus cinnamonmni
to be indigenous to Ceylon, would be alike un-
interesting to the general reader, and unnecessary
for our present purpose ; as we treat principally of
Ceylon, after it became known to the Portuguese.
This shrub attracted the notice of D' Al-
meida, who, with the shrewdness and observa-
tion usually, if not invariably apparent in the
mental organization of discoverers, instantly
perceived the valuable article of commerce this
spice would eventually become. In 1505,
Ceylon was first discovered by D' Almeida, (then
governor of Goa,) and permission was granted
by the monarch of Colombo to the Portuguese to
traffic with the natives ; and, in the succeeding
year, we find the crown of Portugal demanded
for the protection promised to be afforded the
Cingalese sovereign against his enemies, that a
certain quantity of cinnamon should be annually
given. This demand was complied with, and,
although no care was bestowed upon the culti-
vation of the shrub, either by the natives or Por-
tuguese, the revenue derived by the sale of the
spicy tribute proved a considerable and welcome
addition to the finances of the king of Portugal.
Although the Dutch gained a footing in Ceylon
in 1G40, we find no attempt was made by

D 5

58 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE-

them, to improve the staple commodity of the island
by cultivation until 1765, and no strenuous exer-
tions were made for the furtherance of the plan
until 1770, and in this year the Governor Falck
resolved to adopt energetic measures for the
culture of the cinnamon-laurel. In this he was
opposed by the native nobles and chiefs, who
imanimously stated the quality of the spice would
be deteriorated by cultivation. Despite these gra-
tuitous assurances, the governor caused several
plantations to be formed, and tended with the
gTeatest care. The young shrubs throve, and
promised to repay, by a superabundant crop, the
capital bestowed upon their cultivation, when sud-
denly every plant was found to be withered up.

Falck instituted a rigid investigation into
the cause of this phenomena, and discovered
that the chiefs had employed men to pour
boiling water over the roots of the laurels. Many
of the offenders were severely punished, and
no ulterior attempt at the destruction of the
shrubs ensued. The reason w^hy the culti-
vation of cinnamon was discouraged by the
chiefs, was, in the first place, that when it grew
only in a wild state, they were paid a certain
per centage for allowing their slaves to collect a
stipulated quantity of the bark ; as no European

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 59

could be found sufficiently courageous to risk
his health, or life, in the forests and jungles of the
Kandian provinces, where the best cinnamon
was produced. In the second, it had become
bruited that it was the intention of the Dutch
government, if it should be found that cinnamon
could be improved by cultivation, to forbid any
natives or Europeans trafficking in or having plan-
tations of the laurel, save those appertaining to,
and for the benefit of the executive powers.
Dispassionately regarding this affiiir, we cannot
feel surprised that the Cingalese should discour-
age, and throw unlawful impediments in the path
of the cultivation of a shrub from which they had
hitherto derived emolument, and which was the
spontaneous production of their native soil.

So unjustly rigid was the monopoly of cinnamon
maintained by the Dutch government, that nei-
ther the European nor native proprietor of the
land was allowed to destroy, cut a stick, touch
the bark, or pluck the leaves of a shrub, (the
seed of which might have been dropped by birds)
that grew on their property ; and they were also
compelled to give notice to the superintendent
of cinnamon-plantations when a cinnamon-laurel
sprouted from the earth's bosom, or severe
penalties were imposed.

60 CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Every cinnamoii-slnub \vas declared to be the
sole property of the Dutch government, and the
superintendent was authorized to send the peelers
into a man's grounds to search for the shrubs,
and, if any were found, they were immediately
stripped of their bark, which Avas transported to
the public warehouses, and the owner of the land
either fined or imprisoned for having infringed
the Dutch laws by not giving information that a
cinnamon-plant grew on his land.

The Portuguese were hard task-masters in
Ceylon, but the yoke imposed by them, was not so
oppressive as the iron fetters which shackled the
Cingalese during the period that the Dutch had
possession of the island. The sj)irit of avarice so
completely reigned lord paramount in the breasts
of the Dutch rulers, that history affirms, when the
bushes yielded a superabundant crop, bales of
cinnamon were burned, or otherwise destroyed,
both in Ceylon and Holland, to keep up the
exorbitant price then demanded and obtained
for the spice. From old Dutch records we learn
that for more than one hundred years, the revenue
derived annually from the sale of cinnamon was
seldom less than four hundred thousand pounds.
When the island came into our ])ossession, the
cinnamon monopoly was granted to the East

II

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. ()1

India Company for the yearly payment of the
sum of sixty-thousand pounds : this was ultimately
increased to one hundred thousand, which sum was
received by our government until 1823, when the
right of cultivation and sale reverted to the
Crown, and the amount realized by the sale of
cinnamon varied to an almost incredible extent,
the annual receipts fluctuating between fifty
thousand, to one hundred and seventy thousand
])Ounds. In 1832, a commission of inquiry into
the effects of this monopoly was instituted, and
in the following year, by the judicious policy of
Lord Goderich this obnoxious measure was aban-
doned, and the cultivation of the shrub has been
thrown open since that period. Many improve-
ments have been introduced by private indivi-
duals.

A cinnamon plantation somewhat resembles
a luxuriant laurel copse, as the bushes ai'e, by
constant priming, not allowed to exceed twelve
or fifteen feet in height, except those that may
be required for seed ; and these will occasionally
attain the height of thirty or forty feet, the trunk
of the shrub measuring from eighteen to twenty-
three inches in circumference. The propagation
of the Laurus cinnamomum is conducted with
facility, seeds, plants, and roots, (if transplanted

(}'2 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

with caution,) alike thriving in an appropriate
soil, that consists of a pure quartz sand, Avhich
to the depth of many inches is as fine as moist
sugar, and perfectly white ; it then assumes a
grey tint, and in some of the mountainous dis-
tricts, layers of black moss are found immediately
under this species of sterile sandy soil. It is re-
markable that although white ants infest and
abound in all cinnamon plantations in the island,
these destructive insects do not injure the bushes
in the slightest degree. And it is a proverb with
many of the Cingalese, that to have a thriving
plantation of cinnamon bushes four plenties are
requisite, namely — "plenty of sand, plenty of
sun, plenty of white ants, and plenty of water."

The foliage of the laurel is thick and of a dark
shining green when amved at maturity, but when
young, the leaves are exquisitely beautiful, as
their colour then is a pale yellowish green, striped
with bright red : from the old leaves a fragrant
oil is distilled, which the natives use for medi-
cinal puiposes, and which is applied by us to
many uses. The cinnamon blossom is pure
white, and scentless, the fruit or berry, acom-
shaped and small, the hue of which as it ripens
gradually changing from green to purple, and
from this is obtained, by boiling, a substance like

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 63

wax, which is frequently made into candles,
and these emit an agreeable perfume whilst
burning. Some enormously large tapers made
from this wax were found by our troops in the
king of Kandy's palace. The spice is the inner
bark of the shrub, and, in order to ascertain if
this is in a fit state, the peeler makes a diagonal
incision in a shoot, and, should the inner bark
readily separate, the shi-ub is in a fit state for
peeling. The knives used by the cinnamon-
peelers are of a peculiar form, being heavy, long,
convex on one side, concave on the other, and
the point of the instrument is remarkably fine.

The bushes are generally peeled twice in the
year, the first crop being the most abundant, and
producing cinnamon of the finest quality. The
first is obtained between the months of April and
August, the second between November and
January. The mode of obtaining the cinnamon
is the following: the cinnamon-peeler cuts off
the shoots of a year old, which are of the thick-
ness of a man's finger, varying in length fi'om one
to four feet. The leaves are then carefully stripped
off and placed in heaps, the peeler makes an
incision with his knife the entire length of the
shoot, separating the bark from the wood; he
then carefully scrapes off the grey exterior skin.

G4 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

and the green inner epidermis, leaving tiie baric
free from all fleshy substance, about the thickness
of vellum, and of a greenish white coloiu'. The
man tlien places the small portions of the bark
on the larger pieces, spreading the cinnamon
out in a warm and shady spot, so as to enable
the spice to dry gradually but thoroughly. The
sun's rays and atmospheric influence cause the
bark to assume a brown hue, and pipe-like form .
and, when all moisture is evaporated, the cinna-
mon is tied up into sheaves, or bundles, weighing
from fifty to seventy pounds, and is sent to the
market for sale. From the refuse of the bark, a
golden-coloured fine-flavoured aqueous fluid is
distilled ; from the root camphor is procured, and
the peeled twigs are converted into walking canes ;
in short, there is no part of the Laurus cinna-
momum that cannot be applied to the use of
man.

The men who peel the cinnamon belong ex-
clusively to a very low caste, called Challias, or
cinnamon-peelers ; and no native woman or man
of a higher caste will associate with, or partake
of food that has been prepared by these people —
the poor Challia being despised in the maritime
districts, as the unfortunate Rhodia is in the Kan-
dian provinces.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. C5

The abodes of all Europeans in Ceylon bear a
striking similitude to each other, the houses being-
constructed upon the same j^lan ; every door and
window alike open, and the portals of distinct
apartments having moveable blinds placed mid-
way in the frame-work. The dining-room usu-
ally extends the whole length of the dwelling,
consequently the width of this apartment is gene-
rally disproportionate to the length ; and in this
hot climate, to enable the residents to partake of
their meals in some degree of coolness, a punkah,
nearly the length of the apartment, is suspended
from the ceiling over the dining-table.

As we have a vivid recollection of the astonish-
ment with which we gazed, the first time we saw one
of these singular machines, we will describe what a
punkah is like, believing there are many in this
country who have not the most remote idea what
this essential requisite to comfort, in an Eastern
dwelling resembles. In the first place, a frame
of w^ood, considerably longer than wide, is
covered with white calico, to the bottom of W'hich
is attached a deep frill — flounce we believe to be
the correct feminine term for this sort of garnish-
ing. The frame-work is suspended from the
ceiling by strong cords, while to the centre of the
punkah is attached a very long rope, passing

66 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

through a pulley which is pulled by a man
stationed outside the dining-room, and by this
means the machine is kept in constant motion.
The use of the flounce is to catch the air as the
punkah waves to and fro over your head, and
very necessary and pleasant are the artificial
breezes thus created by the waving of a certain
quantum of wood-work and calico, where the
thermometer ranges from eighty-six to ninety-
eight.

There is one slight drawback to the delight of
owning a punkah, even in the tropics, for it is
almost certain that your careless servants will never
inspect the ropes by which the punkah is sus-
pended, to see if they ai"e worn by the friction, caused
by the constant pulling of the punkah. It is very,
very, very hot indeed, the mosquitoes are torment-
ing you beyond endurance ; you slap your own face
Jifty times, in the vain endeavour to annihilate
one of these toraienting insects ; at last, in a fit of
angiy despair, you call out to the punkah-puller,
" Can't you pull strong, you lazy mortal ?" —The
biped, stimulated to exertion by your angry tone,
gives an energetic pull — one in right good
earnest, as much as to say, " Does that please
you now, master ?" You hear a sort of rustling-
above your head, look up — crash — smash — down

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 67

comes the punkah on the dmner-table, making a
most awful uproar, shivering all the glass and
crockery, and, worse than all, utterly desti'oying
your meal. This disaster assuredly does not
please you, although your orders were obeyed,
"to pull strong," but even the downfall of a pun-
kah, under different circumstances, excites dissi-
milar passions in the human breast.

If this contretemps happen inyour own domicile,
you rave at your appoo (or head servant) about his
neglect of duty, carelessness, laziness, stupidity,
&c., &c., &c. ; vow that you will make him
replace all that is broken, stamping, fuming,
fretting, working yourself into both fever and
fury. But let this disaster occur at a friend's
house, you view it with the indifference of a stoic
and the tranquillity of a philosopher, the equani-
mity of your temper not being in the most remote
degree affected, or ruffled : — quietly rising from
the table, you employ your serviette in wiping
fiom your waistcoat a portion of the contents of
the cuny-dish, which delicious combination of
vegetables and fish, with some chicken cotelettes,
and a claret jug, may have been deposited by the
fall of the aforesaid punkah in your lap, not to
the improvement of your white clothing. Your
tone of voice is mild, your speech deliberate,

68 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

your manner calm, as you beg your host to mode-
rate his vexation, consoling him by remarking —
" That it is a horrid bore, to have a dinner spoiled
and the breakables demolished, but it is just like
these fellows, so insufferably indolent in every
way, neglecting their business to chew betel, and
gossip about master's business." The host thanks
you again and again for your consideration,
becoming at last insanely profuse and prolix in
his apologies for the mishap. You beg of him to
say no more on the subject, but order his appoo
to clear away the debris, and see if some edibles
cannot be found either on the table or in the
cook-house, that will serve as a substitute for the
sumptuous and varied repast that was spread
before you, in numberless dishes, but which the
perverse punkah has converted into an unpalata-
ble pot-pourri, or hodge-podge.

It is the invariable custom to place dessert
upon the table after dinner, and, although this
consists of every variety of tropical fruit in
season, none save recent arrivals, ever venture to
eat fresh fruit in the after part of the day : the
older residents occasionally venture upon a little
dried ginger, or try an Euc/lish biscuit, the crisp-
ness and flavour of which have not been improved
by its travels. We have noticed the flush of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 69

delightful anticipation pass over a new-comer's
face, as he gazed with evident satisfaction upon
the cool-looking tempting fruits, garnished with
gorgeous flowers, that were spread in trim array
before him ; what delicious-looking pine-apples
and mangoes, what magnificent bananas and
custard-apples, what luscious pumbelows and
guavas, what inviting water-melons and green-
figs ! The custard-apples are near " the new man,"
he takes one on his plate, and carefully bisects
the mellow, melting fruit, preparing to devour the
same with great gusto. His neighbour, if cha-
ritably disposed, and an old resident, in which
case he is almost certain to possess a yellow skin
and diseased liver, may whisper with an air of
compassion for such ignorance, " I would advise
you not to eat fruit after dinner, as it is very
likely to produce cholera ;" (the plate is pushed
away with extreme avidity ;) " eat as much as you
like at breakfast, or tiffin, that won't harm you in
the least." The green thanks the yellow man,
resolving to indulge his gourmandise and affection
for fruit the following morning.

We cannot dismiss Colombo without noticing
the immense flocks of carrion crows that infest
Colpetty ; these birds abound in every port of
Ceylon, but we think their number and audacity

70 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

are more manifest in this part of the island than
elsewhere. These creatures are much larger than
their European brethren, the plumage is thicker,
and more glossy, and assuredly there is much spe-
culation in their eyes ; in short, we think them very
handsome-looking, intelligent birds. No sooner
did the first glimmer of daybreak appear, than
their loud and incessant guttural, kha — haa, kha —
haa, kha — haa, used to break our matinal slum-
bers. The boldness, thievish propensities, and per-
severance of these creatures, are almost incredible.
We have known a crow to fly into the break-
fast-room, hover over the toast-rack, seize a slice
of bread, and fly off with it, although there
were people seated at table : we have witnessed
other marauders hop on to the sill of the cook-
house-window, and there remain watching, with
the utmost inquisitiveness, the movements of the
cook, and no sooner was the man's back turned,
or a favom'able opportunity occurred, than the
hare-faced feathered thieves would pounce on
some article of food, and make for the nearest
tree, or roof of the building, there to devour it at
their leisure. We have heard, but did not see
the act perpetrated, that a crow appropriated a
piece of cake, that a child of six years old was
eating, despite the efforts of the little unfeathered

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 71

biped to drive the feathered one away ; but we
can positively affirm that we have seen the crows
flying off with substances fi'om our dwelling in
Colpetty, that were nearly as heavy and bulky as
their own bodies. There was one fellow whom
we had christened the old soldier, (from his
bravery, and because he had lost the lower half
of one leg in the field of battle possibly, as a
piece of red rag was tied around the stump ; for
aught we know to the contrary, this might have
been a novel order of the garter,) whose daring
and audacity were beyond credence. This bird
used absolutely to attempt to take food from a
dog whilst eating, and very frequently succeeded ;
the animal would naturally open its mouth, to
snap or bark at the creature who was pecking or
pulling at the food — the crow would then avail
itself of this opportunity to fix the beak in the
coveted morsel. Constantly we have seen these
daring exploits rewarded with success, the bird
flying off in triumph with the sjjoil, and perch
on the branch of a neighbouring ti'ce, under
which tlie dog would stand angrily barking, as he
looked u]) at the robber leisurely eating the food
in security, that had been purloined absolutely
from between his teeth.

rl CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

CHAPTER IV.

Situation of Kandy — Koute — Bridge of boats — Paddy ter-
races— Aspect of the people — Ainbepusse — Mountain
zone — Kadaganawa pass — Mountain scenery — Talapat,
or gi-eat fan palm — Animal life — Draught elephants —
Peredenia — Bridge and Botanical gardens — Curious
specimens of the vegetable kingdom — Travellers' friend
— City of Kandy — Ai'tificial lake — Bathing house of the
Queen's — Palace — Native shops — Customs — Buildings —
Artillery-barracks — Deficiency of water — The governor's
residence — Beauty of the architecture and site — Views of
the valley of Doombera — Major Davie's tree — Groimds
of tlie Pavihon — Lady Horton's road — Grandeur of sce-
nery— Altitude of the mountains — Military station on
One-tree hill — Legend — Kurunaigalla tunnel — Compul-
sory labour — Animals, birds, and reptiles, in the siu--
roiuiding comitry.

Kandy, the former capital of the interior, called
1)V the natives Maha-neura, or the great city, is

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 78

situated in lat 7^—21' N. and in long., 80"
48' E,, at the summit of an extensive fertile valley,
which lies more than 1500 feet above the level of
the sea. The distance from Colombo to Kandy
is seventy-two miles, the route crossing the
bridge of boats, which was constructed during tlie
government of Sir Edward Barnes, to obviate the
unavoidable delay attendant upon the use of ferry-
boats, to cross the Mutwal-Oya ; which delay
more than once led to serious results, when the
assistance of our troops was required on the
opposite side of the river. For the first eighteen
miles of the road, the scenery is of the same
character as that on the coast, with this exception,
that rice is cultivated in a different manner to
that adopted in the southern provinces.

Instead of planting the grain on a level surface,
in this district it is more general to sow it in
teiTaces of irregular dimensions and construction,
the usual mode being to make an elevation in the
centre of the paddy field, round which a terrace
of less height extends, below which is a smaller
one, each one decreasing towards the bottom of
the artificial mound. Every level space is kept
well supplied with water, and is separated from
the terrace underneath, l)y mud walls, in which
arc perforations, to allow it to descend and irri-

VOL. I. E

74 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

gate the lower terraces. And although the Cin-
galese agriculturist is far surpassed in the con-
struction of the paddy terraces, by the ingenuity
and regularity evinced in the formation of the
same by the Chinese, still the beautifid appear-
ance of the young rice is everywhere alike, and
nothing can be imagined more pleasing than the
exquisite brilliant tender green of the growing
paddy.

Soon the aspect of nature changes, the cocoa-
nut palm plantations become less frequent, groves
of areka and suriya trees, (Habiscus zeilanicus,)
gradually taking their place ; the latter is a
majestic tree, bearing a strong similitude to an
elm, and, when it is covered with irs yellow
blossoms, the lovely appearance is indescriba-
ble.

The air of" the people also varies considerably,
as the maritime districts are left in the rear — the
high comb and long comboy are no longer visible,
a handkerchief taking the place of the first, and a
very short cloth or petticoat being used as a sub-
stitute for the last. The black paper umbrella
is scarcely seen, a leaf of the talapat palm being
used as a protection against the sun's rays in its
stead ; priests of Buddha, with shaven heads, and
flowing yellow robes, wending their wav to some

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 75

temple, are much more numerous than in the
southern province ; in short, all around tends to
impress upon the traveller's mind, that he is in a
country and among a people totally dissimilar
in all essential characteristics, to the lowland
Cingalese.

The road to Kandy is planned, and the skill
of the engineer has been displayed in the most
masterly manner ; as the hilly and movmtaiii-
ous districts are ascended, the views become sub-
lime in the extreme ; and the contrast presented
by the huge masses of black gneiss rock, to the
delicate and luxuriant flowering creepers that
cling to some part of them, is alike wonderful and
delightful. The prospect from the Rest-house at
Ambepusse, situated thirty-five miles from Co-
lombo, is surpassingly fine. This building lies in
a valley that is formed by a semicircle of hills,
which are wooded from base to summit, the luxu-
riance and gigantic character of the vegetation of
Ceylon, in the mountainous districts, alone dis-
tinguishing it from that of Switzerland, Scotland,
and North Wales. Although the country around
Ambepusse is beautiful, and its soil fertile, tlie
district is exceedingly unhealthy, the resi-
dents, both native and European, being liable
to debilitating fever and ague. From Ambe-

E 2

76 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

pusse to Attoomakandy, the whole route, for
eighteen miles, is enlivened by the spectacle of
land in tlie highest state of cultivation ; coffee,
sugar, and indigo crops alternately greeting the
traveller's eye ; and two miles from the latter
place, the mountain-zone commences in all its
sublimity and stern grandeur. At the first view
of these stupendous and lofty mountains, which
stretch in an enormous chain, (and which, during
successive native dynasties, had formed the boun-
daries of the Kandian monarchs' tenitories, and
which also enabled them, for more than three
centuries, to set at defiance all the arts of war
practised by the Portuguese, Dutch, and English
conquerors of the maritime districts,) all farther
progress seems to be debarred. We believe the
road that winds round Kadaganawa Pass can be
compared to nothing of the same construction in
modern times, save the Simplon ; and the officer
who planned the first had innumerable difficulties
to contend with, in the shape of inefficient as-
sistants, unskilful and unwilling labourers, a
tropical sun and unhealthy atmosphere, whilst
those who executed the latter task, were aided by
willing hands, ready hearts, and a genial atmo-
sphere. We know that the sacrifice of human life,
whilst clearing the dense jungle for the fonnation

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 77

of the road was immense, and we regret to say
that numbers of our officers were claimed by
death, whilst superintending the tardy hxbours of
the natives, in the discharge of tlieir duties.

A series of views of the most magnificent and
varied character open forth as the mountain is as-
cended ; on either side of wliich appear cultivated
lands, bounded by dense forests, and rocks, whilst
the clearness of the atmosphere enables the tra-
veller to see the undulating lowlands stretching far
into the distance. As the steep sides of the moun-
tain are climbed, ravines and fissures are wound
round, and often a perpendicular mountain rears
its lofty crest on one side, and descends in the
same manner on the opposite. Sometimes a
brawling waterfall appears over the traveller's'
head, as if threatening instant annihilation, by
hurling him into the deep abyss below ; then the
road will become so narrow^ that there appears to
be scarcely room sufficient for the vehicle to
stand on, and the strongest nerves may be
shaken, as the eye glances below at the steep
precipice, down which some crumbling earth is
rolling, loosened by the coach-wheels. To this
circumscribed path, upon turning the next angle,
succeeds a wide road and view of the surround-
ing country — terminated by the Blue mountains

78 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

in the distance, whose towering heads blend with
the azure heavens, Adam's Peak rearing his lofty
crest above his fellows. The combination of
sublime and beautiful scenery, brought under
notice during the ascent of the Kadaganawa
Pass is nearly incredible ; roaring toiTcnts dash-
ing down frightful abysses, from whose sides
spring enormous trees, and at whose base are lands
teeming with grain. Terrific chasms, and over-
hanging masses of rock, where bright coloured
flowering shrubs have taken root, rapidly succeed
each other ; and, when the summit of the moun-
tain is attained, and the boundless extent and
beauty of the prospect fully perceptible, many
beholders of this magnificent scene cannot find
utterance to express their sense of the might,
majesty, and glory of the Almighty's works, and
tlie humiliating feeling of their own littleness.

The freshness of the atmosphere, and the
si)lendour of the scenery, are admitted by all,
and extolled by numberless Europeans who have
ascended the Kadaganawa Pass ; and amongst
those who are keenly alive to the beauties of
nature, and consequently possessing acute sensi-
bilities, we never knew one, whose feelings were
not alienated from home, or blunted by a pro-
longed residence in the East, who did not de-

II

CEYLOM AND THE CINGALESE. 79

clare they felt saddened, as the distant mountains
and cooler air recalled scenes and persons in
their native land, they might possibly never
behold again, — while they compared the moun-
tains they were then gazing upon to those in
England, Ireland, Scotland, or Wales. A
column of noble design and just proportions is
placed on the summit of the mountain, erected in
honour of him who planned the Kadaganawa
Pass.

The remaining portion of the route to Kandy is
diversified by many beautiful specimens of the
animal and vegetable kingdoms, as numbers of
monkeys belonging to different species will spoit
among the branches, whilst flocks of parrots and
birds with gaudy plumage will wing their way
from, or settle upon, the boughs of the trees adja-
cent to the road-side. Every tint of verdure is to
be seen upon the trees, from the bright green of
the young leaf, to the sombre tint of maturit}-,
which will gradually subside into a rich brown,
assuming a brilliant orange colom*, before it drops
from its parent stem ; and as the eye wanders
farther into the jungle, the trees appear to forni
one vast natural bower.

Attracted by the warmth, occasionally u
speckled serpent may be seen gliding from his

80 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

retreat in the underwood, to enjoy the full power
of the sun's beams, or the reptile may entwine
itself round the trunk of a tree in pursuit of some
lovely bird, (not sufficiently strong on the wing
to elude by flight the creature's deadly fangs,) or
to rob the nests of the eggs, or imfledged young.

It would be impossible to enumerate a tithe of
the trees appertaining to different species that
are to be met with in this vast garden ; but what
principally attracts the stranger's attention, is the
large talapat palm that grows a short distance
from the right-hand side of the road, a few miles
from Kandy. This magnificent tree towers above
all the other gigantic monarchs of the vegetable
w^orld, and it is utterly impossible to find words
adequate to describe its splendid beauty. The
talapat, or great fan palm, is designated by most
authors as Corypha umbracidifera, but some few
call it Licuala spinosa. Leaving those botanists to
settle the disputed name that have a penchant
for disputation, we will give a cm'sory descrip-
tion of this celebrated palm — which varies in
height from seventy to one hundred feet. The
leaves frequently measure, from the exti'emity of
the stalk to the point, more than twenty-four feet,
and the width varies from twelve to seventeen,
and these are used by the natives for fans and

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 81

umbrellas. Under the native kings, none save
these belonging to the highest caste were allowed
to use these leaves, and the number was fixed
that each chief, according to his rank, was to have
borne before him. The flowers spring from the
diadem of graceful verdure that crowns the palm,
the blossoms being of a most exquisite pale
yellow, and continuing in bloom for the space of
three months, when they gradually disappear as
the fruit forms.* Near this gigantic tree, are to
be seen the banian tree, the myrtle (Myrtus), the
bay tree (Laurus,) and the tick seed sunflower,
which bears an immense number of golden-
coloured blossoms, and is a species of Coreopsis ;
whilst on the opposite side fragments of yellow
rock are clothed with luxuriant balsams, (Impati-
cus coccinea,) whose delicate white, and brilliant
red blossoms, stand out' in bold relief fi'om the
shining foliage. Ever and anon, some sportive
gi'een lizard will dart from out the long grass,
and run across the road, or large cai'penter bees,
or beetles, whose wings are resplendant with the
rainbow's hues, will in their airy flight poise on
the wing, preparatory to settling upon some sweet-
scented flower, thus giving the traveller an oppor-

* For a detailed account of this palm, see a future
chapter

E 5

82' CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

tunity of noting their several characteristic beau-
ties. Possibly the eye may rest upon a small
lizard, whose delicate brown skin is spotted like
the tiger's, or striped like the leopard's, or on a
tree frog, whose peculiar formation and move-
ments delight as well as astonish ; the former
may be resting tranquilly on the trunk of the
tree, with extended tongue, to catch the mosqui-
toes, or other small insects, and the latter may be
creeping into the cup of the beautiful blossom,
also in search of food.

It not unfrequently happens, the next strange
object that arrests the traveller's attention, maybe
a tame elephant harnessed to a roughly-made
cart, (as these creatures are used by the govern-
ment in this district,) the driver walking quietly
by the animal's side, unprovided with any means
of enforcing his commands by severity, the pon-
derous brute obeying his keeper's voice with the
docility of a well-trained little child. In fact,
earth and air in this fertile island teem with
such infinite variety of natural productions, that
the man devoted to scientific pursuits, and he
whose sole aim is the acquirement of wealth, find
alike a wide field for their respective occupa-
tions.

Three miles from the town of Kandy is Pera-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 83

denia, celebrated alike for its bridge and botani-
cal gardens; the bridge being built entirely of
satin wood, one noble arch of two hundred and
seven feet, spanning the swelling waters of the
Mahavelle-ganga. The Botanical gardens, whilst
under the superintendence of the celebrated
oriental botanist, Dr. Gardner, were maintained
in admirable condition, and every facility was
afforded by that talented and courteous man, for
the student or enquirer to obtain information.

We believe these extensive gardens contained a
specimen of every plant, shrub, or tree, indigenous
to the island, (with the exception of the talapat
tree,) as Dr. Gardner was indefatigable in the
performance of his duty, and many rare speci-
mens fi'om the mountainous district, whose exist-
ence w^as previously unknown, were obtained by
the energetic exertions of this gentleman. Among
the curious foreign plants in these gardens, is a
species of banana (Musa sapientum), native of
Madagascar, called by many the " Traveller's
friend," owing to the sweet aqueous fluid that
flows fi-om the sheath of the leaf when punctured.
Every member of this tribe is exceedingly grace-
ful, but the beauty of the one now alluded to far
outvies its compeers, as the leaves sprout with
extreme regularity from either side of the stem,

84 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

in regular gi-adations, each leaf elegantly droop-
ing over a lesser one, from the base to the summit
of the stem. The trunk also is the same beautiful
green as the leaves, and its formation is most
peculiar, as it is flat, and has a platted appear-
ance, looking exactly as if tlu'ee stems had been
regularly entwined. The height of this extraor-
dinary specimen is nearly eighteen feet, and,
although we have given an exact description of
tliis beautiful tree, Ave feel that we have not been
able to impart an adequate idea of its excessive
loveliness and singularity. The lei-chee trees,
natives of China (Dimacarpus), usually attract
much attention, but as we had seen them in
this parent land growing to an enormous size,
we did not feel the pecidiar interest that we
otherwise might have done. The fiaiit, the
shape of which is oval, is considered extremely
delicious, varying in size from a damson to a
small plum ; the portion that is eaten, is a semi-
transparent jelly-like substance, that is contained
in a tough, thin, rough, red rind : when dried
these fruits are very palatable, and can now be
obtained in England, but in oiu estimation the
lei-chee to be eaten in perfection, should be pre-
served; the jelly prepared from them by the
Chinese, is as delicious a compound as can well

I

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 85

be imagined. The trees belonging to this species
in the botanic gardens have not attained their
full growth, nevertheless they are universally
admired ; the foliage resembles that of the laurel
in size and colour, and the fruit grows in bunches
suspended from stalks six or eight inches long ;
the bark is a rich shade of bright brown, and in
China, these trees, when arrived at maturity, are as
large and lofty as a full-grown oak ; those now al-
luded to at Peradenia are only of a moderate size.
Although not in these gardens, we cannot refrain
from noticing one of the most noble specimens of
vegetation in the world, that is to be found in the
Mahomedan burial-ground at Putlam, in this
island. This is a tamarind tree, (Tamarindus
indicus,) and called fi-om its enormous size the
giant's tree ; the height is ninety-eight feet, and
seven feet fi'om the root, the solid stem is thirty-
nine feet in diameter: just above, the tree divides
into two branches, one of which is twenty-one
feet, and the other twenty-seven feet in circum-
ference. The natives affirm that it increases in
size annually, and that it is not more than a hun-
dred-and-thirty years old. At one time tamarind
trees, but of a smaller size, used to abound in the
jungles, but immense numbers have been de-
stroyed in the formation of coffee estates, and

86 CEA-LON AND THE CINGALESE.

many have been felled to obtain their exquisitely
variegated timber, which is often manufactured
into furniture.

The position of the former capital of Lanka
diva, is as beautiful and romantic as can be
well depicted by the most vivid imagination ;
being situated in a valley, partially surrounded
by lofty mountains, which are clothed in the
perpetual verdure of trees, Avhose enormous
girth betoken these were saplings in ages past,
The mountains (varying from 300 to 2000 feet
in height) are nearly in the form of an amphi-
theatre, and, when their shadows are reflected
in the lake's clear waters, the scene is more
like enchantment than reality. This artificial
lake was formed by the last tyrant monarch of
Kandy, out of paddy-fields, which he forced
the owners to yield up to him ; and many thou-
sands of men were compelled to labour without
the slightest compensation, at the embankments,
and numbers of wives were made widows, as
score after score of the labourers fell victims
to the unwholesome exhalations of the disturbed
stagnant waters. Notwithstanding all the atro-
cious associations connected with the construc-
tion of this lake, it is a most refi'eshing sight,
as the silver stream extends nearly a mile and

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 87

three quarters in length, the breadth at the
widest part exceeding five hundred and ten feet.
A winding road encircles the lake, which being
at the base of the surrounding hills, is sheltered
in some measuie by them from the scorching
rays of the sun ; consequently, Europeans can
indulge in pedestrian and equestrian exercise
at a later hour in the mornmg, and an earlier
one in the afternoon, than they can either at
Galle, or Colombo. A small artificial island
stands in the centre of the lake, on which is an
octagonal building that was used by the Queens
of Kandy as a bathing-house ; since we have
had possession of the capital, it has been con-
verted into a powder-magazine. Near the lake
is the palace, and, although the building has
suffered fearfully from the wanton destruction
of our troops, still much remains to show what
its magnificent decorations must have been in
its hour of pride. The massive walls bear im-
press of the sculptor's art, and they are equally
remarkable for their solidity. From the ])Hlaee to
the side of the lake, runs a beautiful low trellised
wall, in which are perforations of every shape and
size, for the purpose of illumination upon oc-
casions of public rejoicing and festivity ; and
nothing can be conceived more picturesque than

88 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the view of this low wall fi'om the opposite hill.
Alas ! we grieve to say, this elegant structure
was fast crumbling away, and, as it is not re-
paired, in a comparatively short time not a
vestige of it will remain. The great objects
of interest in Kandy are the temples and tombs
of the kings, and as a full account of them will
be given in a future chapter, we omit especial
mention of them here.

The town of Kandy is insalubrious, as it lies
in a basin, o])en drains rmming at either side
of the principal streets, and the effluvia from
these receptacles of filth, especially after rain,
is absolutely pestiferous. Improvements were
commenced, by covered drains being constnicted,
and stagnant waters drained off, but as all la-
bour proceeds in Ceylon in an inverse ratio to
the growth of vegetation, it will be years before
(if ever) these sanitary measures are effected.
The present town consists of two main streets
called Colombo and Trincomalee Streets, the
foi-mer running east and west, the latter north and
south ; and the principal market for edibles is
situated in the middle of the intersecting roads.
On either side of the streets are small open
shops, Avhere the indolent owners sit chewing
betel, being almost too lazy to serve a customer

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 89

with their wares, presenting a correct type of
oriental customs and productions. Spread upon
small wicker trays, are all sorts of spices, from
the small romid black peppercorn to the oval
nutmeg and long pipe of brown cinnamon ; in-
termixed with these, are heaps of brilliant red
chillies, white rice, and golden turmerick, whilst
from the roof are suspended bunches of the
green and yellow plantains, and mat bags con-
taining curry stuffs, coffee, and sugar. In one
corner may be a pile of oranges and citrons,
whilst the others are occupied with cocoa-nuts
divested and undivested of then* exterior green
covering. Occasionally these articles are so
an'anged, and the colours blend so harmoniously,
that one is almost tempted to believe an artist's
hand alone could thus have placed them.

When a buyer approaches one of these recepta-
cles, and the proprietor is sufficiently roused from
his favourite employment of betel-chewing, to state
the ]mce of the required commodity, a wordy
war immediately ensues, for the native purveyor,
let him traffick in the cheapest fruit, or the costli-
est jewel, invariably asks double the value of the
article he has for sale. The native buyer in all
probability requires a fanam's-worth of curry
stufi' or spice, double the amount is asked, until

90 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

fraction by fraction is abated, and the just price
agreed to be taken ; each, party chaffering with
as much vehemence, energy, and gesticulation,
as if three thousand rix-dollars were at stake,
instead of three-halfpence.

During the Kandian monarchy, the relatives
and connexions of the royal family resided in
a particular district, situated in a south-easterly
direction from the principal temple and palace,
and which is now called Malabar Street. The
ruling despot invariably deeming it essential to
be prepared for rebellion, naturally placed re-
liance upon his relatives.

The Kandian laws forbade all save the nobles
and chiefs to constmct their dwellings with
bricks, or kabook, or to roof them with tiles, or
to elevate them from the ground ; the domiciles
of all of inferior rank being composed of a com-
pound of mud and sticks, called waretchie, and
roofed with platted cocoa-nut leaves, or paddy
straw. A Kandian chief informed us the following
\^"as the original plan of the city ; all the streets,
including the principal, being five in number,
ran in straight lines, inclining from west and
east to the north, forming a triangle based by
the artificial lakes.

There are a few good shops where European

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 91

aiticles can be obtained in Kandy, but on ac-
count of the expense attendant upon inland
transit, the prices are exorbitant. The religious
edifices and public buildings are of the same de-
scription as those at Colombo, but their number
is materially less. A very handsome church was
built by subscription, and consecrated by the
pious prelate, Dr. Chapman, the present and
first Bishop of Colombo. Previously to the erec-
tion of this edifice, divine service was performed
in the Hall of Audience, formerly used by the
kings of Kandy for the reception of ambassadors,
which was, and is, used also as the Court-house.
The town is garrisoned by a detachment of our
troops, and of the Ceylon Rifles, the barracks
for both affording ample accommodation for a
large number of soldiers. Near the tombs of
the kings are the artillery barracks, situated in
a most picturesque spot, the grounds of which
are stocked with flowering shrubs, and many
European vegetables, that are reared and tended
by the soldiers with the greatest care ; the men
taking pride in, and bestowing extreme attention
upon, the well-kept garden. Scattered over the
lower hills are some houses of a better descrip-
tion, that have been erected within the last few
years, and are inhabited by the government em-

92 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

ployes and Europeans. Although these dwellings
are commodious, and built in comparatively
salubrious spots, they have one most essential
drawback, namely, want of a plentiful supply of
good water ; for as gneiss forms the bed of Kandy,
water is difficult to obtain in certain situations,
being particularly scarce on the hill sides.

His Excellency's residence, called the Pavi-
lion, is the only structure in Ceylon that is
calculated for the abode of one who is en-
trusted with the government of Asiatics, and,
moreover, is the representative of the Sovereign
of Great Britain. It is a fact of which most
are cognisant, that Eastern nations place ex-
treme value upon all the appliances of state,
although this is admitted theoretically, it is
too frequently disregarded practically, and
we have heard the remark made many times,
both by highland and lowland nobles, that the
Queen's House of Colombo "was plenty small
for gi-eat man, all same Rajah." Surely it is
unwise to practise niggardly parsimony in such
matters, giving a people, (whom we have con-
quered, and wish to impress with an idea of
our notions of wealth and power,) the convic-
tion that we either cannot, or will not provide
suitable residences for the Governors who are
sent to rule over them.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 93

The Queen's House at Kandy was planned by
Lieut.-Colonel Brown, R.E., and built while Sir
Edward Barnes was Governor. This building
is composed of a centre and two wings, which
form in the rear three sides of a square, is elegant
and commodious, combining every requisite for
a dwelling in a tropical climate, and beautiful
architectural proportions. The house is sur-
rounded by regular coUonades, and, as the entire
surface of this handsome edifice is encrusted
with a preparation that bears a high polish, the
whole of the building has the appearance of
being constructed of white marble. The pavi-
lion commands a view of the principal part of
the town, as well as an extensive prospect of the
adjacent country ; and it would have been im-
possible to have selected a more advantageous
site in every way. The house stands in the
centre of a large lawn, about which are planted
at regular intervals groups of magnolia and palm
trees : the park-like grounds cover a large space,
and are well stocked with flowering exotics, and
kept in excellent order. The park extends to the
sides of the hills, and beautiful views of the moun-
tain landscape valley of Doombera, and the mean-
dering river are obtained. But in the centre of this
lovely valley stands a gentle elevation, on which

94 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

is a large and solitary tree, that recalls mournful
recollections, for it is called Davie's tree ; and
it was in this vicinity in 1803 the fearful massacre
of our poor soldiers took place, occasioned by
the cowardice of the officer who commanded
them, Major Davie ; a man who alike disgraced
his country and humanity.

The beautiful grounds were planned and laid
out during the government of Sir Wilmot Horton,
who succeeded Sir Edward Barnes, and the road
that winds round the hills in the rear of the
Pavilion is still called, and known only by the
name of Lady Horton's road. The rapid suc-
cession of magnificent views that meet the eye
from this mountain path are most glorious, as the
rapid waters of the Mahavelle ganga flow below,
the forest-clothed mountains, and hills, on which
every tint and variety of foliage are to be dis-
cerned. From the main road, a minor path leads
to the one that encircles the lake of Kandy, (whose
level is sixteen hundred and fifty feet above the
ocean,) the height of the mountain immediately
over it, being three thousand feet. A mile beyond
is the rocky ridge of Hantanna, which is four
thousand three hundred feet high ; the Peak of
Hoonasgiri again towers above this, and the
summit of the Knuckles, then proudly rears its

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 95

loft}'^ crest towards the heavens above all, the
height of this mountain exceeding six thousand
one hundred feet. From other parts of Lady
Horton's road, various mountains are perceptible,
besides those already enumerated, whose altitude
varies fi'om three to five thousand feet; but al-
though we can give the heights of the eminences,
we cannot impart an idea of the transcendant
sublimity and grandeur of the scenery that sur-
rounds Kandy.

The Citadel, or stronghold of our troops at
Kandy, is situated upon one-tree hill, communi-
cating by signals with Atgallee, which is distant
seven and a half miles on the Trincomalee road,
and is a military station of great importance, as
it stands upon rising ground that commands a
vast extent of country, and this part proved of
the utmost service during the late rebellion. On
every side Kandy is approached by mountain
passes ; and through one of these ran the cele-
brated Kurunaigalla tunnel, w^hich was five hun-
dred and thirty-seven feet in length. The road
through the tunnel united at the base of the
mountain, with the principal route to Colombo
thus enabling troops advancing on Kandy, to
turn the heights near the Kadaganawa Pass.
This tunnel was constructed by order of Sir

9j8 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

Edward Barnes, to consolidate, so to speak, the
British power after Kandy came into our pos-
session ; for a legend has been extant, from time
immemorial, that no foreign power could re-
tain the Kandian dominions, until a path was

BORED THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN. And a chief

told us, that when his countrymen beheld this
task commenced, their hearts failed them, but,
when they saw it completed, and men walking
through the bowels of the earth, they then knew
it was their destiny to be ruled by a nation who
could pierce rocks, and undermine mountains.

The tunnel w^as completed on the 8th of De-
cember, 1823, but we regret to say this has now
(collapsed, and the road is impassable. This
tunnel, the principal carriage roads, and bridges,
never could have been constructed, had not the
system of compulsory labour been adopted by
our government, as it had been carried on under
the native dynasty. By order of the King in
Council, in 1832, all compulsory services, and
forced labovn* of every description was declared
illegal and abolished. Whilst making the exca-
vations for the tunnel, some rare and valuable
gems were discovered, and the only ruby we
have ever seen without flaw or defect in colour,
was fomid at that period.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 97

Wild animals and game abound in the neigh-
bourhood of Kandy, as the jungles and forests
afford them safe retreat. For as the surrounding
country consists alike of mountains and valleys,
hills and dales, woods and plains, rivers and
streamlets, every animal from the elephant to the
cheetah, every bird from the peacock to the snipe,
every reptile from the python to the centipede,
or amphibious guano, can find secure shelter in
one or other of their respective haunts. We
have known discredit cast upon an officer's asser-
tion, who stated that during Sir Edward Barnes'
government, he had heard continually after night-
fall, the shrill cry of the elephant, and bellowing
of the elk, in the jungle behind, and close to the
Governor's temporary residence. We feel certain
that every syllable of this statement was strictly
correct ; as we have heard Kandians affirm, that
formerly beasts of prey would constantly come
into the city during the night, when pressed by
hunger, and that leopards have often been found
drowned in the wells. Much of the dense jungle
that surrounded the town is now cleared away,
but we can positively declare that very recently
a cheetah was seen close to a dwelling-house,
in the early part of the day, and, despite the
shouts of the servants, pounced ujion a large

VOL. I. F "^

98 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

turkey, deliberately walking off with his prize,
not bounding, into the neighbouring plantation.
Neither can we forget that during our residence
in Kandy, a cobra capello was seen within a
hundred yards of our abode, nor that we killed
a black scoi-pion, (the most venomous of this
tribe,) fully nine inches in length, in the
verandah, narrowly escaping treading upon the
reptile, which we mistook for a piece of stick,
nor that we were roused from our slumbers by
the efforts of a favourite dog, who was endea-
vouring to kill an enormous centipede, that was
crawling up the bed-post under the mosquito
curtains.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 1)9

CHAPTER V.

Route to Trincomalee — Native suspension bridge— Caves
of Dambool — Remains of tanks — Ditficulty of construct-
ing a portion of the road — Hot wells— Temperature of
the waters — Beneficial application in certain diseases —
Legend attached to the waters — Coast and harboiu- of
Trincomalee — Situation, latitude, longitude — Size of har-
boxu- — Fort of Trincomalee — Town — Buildings — •
Troops — Insalubrity of the climate — Trincomalee named
in ancient records — Colony of Malabars established there
befoi-e 125 A.D. — Interesting religious ceremony on the
promontoiy in honour of Siva — Pillar to the memory of
Francina van Rhede — Melancholy lustory — Fantastic
appearance of the Quartz Rocks — Principal roads.

The route from Kandy to Trincomalee abounds
in objects of novelty and interest ; the first one
is situated six miles from Kandy, and consists of
a cane suspension bridge, thrown over the De-

F 2

100 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

deioo-oya. The construction of this fragile
medium of oomnumieation to the opposite sides
of a rapid stream, evinces alike the ingenuity
and readiness of the natives to avail themselves
of those means most easily obtained, and calcu-
lated for their purpose.

This structure is composed of cable-rattan,
which frequently grows to the length of two
hundred yards ; and varies but little in thickness
from one end to the other, is extremely light,
flexible, and tough. The bridge is commenced
b}' entwining canes a few feet apart round the
trunks of two large trees that grow on the oppo-
site banks of the stream, and whose branches
bend over the river ; when the required number
of canes are securely fastened in this manner,
portions of the same material are laid across to
form the path, which is the same breadth as the
circumference of the stems of the trees. Rattans
are then placed at a sufFicient height to form
hand-rails, these being attached to the bridge
by thin bamboos, or sticks, which alike support
and retain the rails in their proper place.

From the overhanging boughs are suspended
cane or coir ropes, which are attached to the
bridge, thus strengthening the structure, and
lessening the vibration. The means of ascent

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 101

are by a ladder composed of the same materials,
which rests against the trunks of the opposite
trees ; and it is perfectly astonishing to see the
fearlessness with which women, children, or
men can-ying heavy burthens, will cross one of
these aerial structures.

Thirty-five miles from Kandy is Dambool,
near which place are the celebrated Buddhist
rock cave temples, which may almost be classed
among the wonders of the world, as they are
complete specimens of man's skill, perseverance,
and ingenuity. * The remains of tanks, that
once fertilized by their waters whole districts,
now suffered to fall into decay, becoming choked
up with dense underwood and rank vegetation
are continually passed ; causing sensations of
sui-prise and pain, that our government sliould
suffer such sources of wealth to become the
focus of disease, instead of having them repaired,
and applying them to the purpose for which they
were constructed.

The last thirty miles of the road are peculiarly
interesting to the antiquarian, as they lie through
a foiest, in which are scattered remains of
temples, tanks, and villages. The officer who

* For tbe detailed account of these extiaordiuary exm-
vatious, see the chapter devoted to the autiqiiities.

102 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

traced tins portion of the road, had to overcome
innumerable difficulties, and endure both toil
and privation in the performance of his task, as
nearly the whole of this portion of the road
was traced fi"om the summit of the trees, and
great difficulty was experienced in obtaining
sufficient water for the large number of men
necessarily employed. Captain Atchison was
indefatigable in his exertions, and the road was
completed in an incredibly short time ; and we
cannot do better than quote his own words, show-
ing the obstacles he had to surmount, and the
remains of civilization that were brought to
light.

"The ruins of Wihares (temples), remains of
deserted villages, tanks, and other remnants of
antiquity, prove that the vast wilderness of beau-
tiful and valuable forest-trees through which the
new line of road passes, heretofore supposed a
trackless desert, obnoxious to the existence of
man, and destitute of water and inhabitants,
once contained a considerable population, by
whose labours an extensive tract of irrigated
lands was regularly cultivated."

Seven miles from Trincomalee, near a ridge
of wooded hills, are the hot springs of Kanya :
there are seven wells of various sizes, containing

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 103

pure water, the temperature of which is uuequal,
the thermometer ranging in different wells from
100° to 112^^. The enclosure in which the springs
are, is about forty feet long, and eighteen wide,
being surrounded by a wall of kabook, each
well likewise having a low embankment. The
taste of the waters is not unpleasant, although
they are not drank, the natives believing only in
their restorative qualities, when applied exter-
nally.

These waters are considered efficacious in
cutaneous and rheumatic diseases, and some of
our medical men recommend their application.
The mode of using these waters is by affiision,
tlie invalid standing upon a square stone tablet,
whilst chatties of water are poured over his
person. The springs are deemed sacred by the
natives, and under the especial protection of
Ganeesa, (the Hindoo god of wisdom,) to whom
there is erected a temple near the spot, and in
which is a stone statue of the god; and the fol-
lowing legend is extant among the natives re-
garding the origin of the springs, which they
view with awe and reverence.

The god, Vishnu, being resolved to prevent the
hero King, Rawana, going to war, with one of his
devotees, assumed the form of a venerable man,

104 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

and appeared before the monarch, just as he
was setting forth to battle, and with loud lamen-
tations informed him that his mother, Kanya, was
dead. The king, deeply afflicted, immediately
ordered his soldiers to their homes, stating that
he could not go forth to war until the solemnities
and ablutions were gone through that were en-
joined to be performed for deceased relatives.
Vishnu disappeared, but, fearing his favourite
might be accidentally encountered by the
monarch, if he went to the bath, caused the hot
springs to burst forth on the spot, and as the
king laved his person, the waters miraculously
appeased his wrath, and from that time have
never ceased to flow ; being called Kanya, after
the mother of the monarch.

The beauty of the coast and harbour of Trin-
eomalee has been expatiated upon by many, and
the eulogies bestowed upon the immense tracts
of inland forests, groves of palmyi*a palms, ad-
jacent country, and bold shores, are fully merited.
Trincomalee is the capital of the eastern pro-
vince, and is situated in lat. 8° 33' 5" north, and
in long. 81° 13' 2" east, possessing a harbour
which is invaluable • for its safety, position, and
size ; naval men have declared in our presence,
the greater portion of our men-of-war could find

CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE. lOO

room, and ride in it with the utmost security.
The inner harbour or bay is land-locked, and
being nearly unfathomable, vessels of every class
can there find shelter from, and in the most vio-
lent storms.

The entrance to the harbour is nearly five miles
wide, and lies between Foul Point on the south-
east, and Fort Frederick on the north-west, the
width gi'adually decreasing to three miles between
Norway Point to the south-west, and Chapel
Island on the north-west, when it expands sud-
denly, and forms Great Bay to the southward,
and Trineomalee harbour to the northward.
During war, this is the principal depot for tlie
Indian navy, as there is an excellent dockyard
and arsenal, capable of holding and refitting the
largest man-of-war.

The fort of Trineomalee extends over a space
exceeding three and a half miles, and commands
the entrance to the inner bay ; within the walls
are buildings, erected for the defence of the low
ground by the landing-place. Three miles west
of Trineomalee is a cliff which projects into the
sea, and on this is the citadel called Fort Osna-
burgh, which is built exclusivel}^ for the defence
of the harbour, and which cannot be taken, until
the lower fort has been captured.

F 5

106 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

The town of Trincomalee extends in a north-
easterly dh-ection, along the outer bay, being
situated in a well-wooded, hilly country, and is
separated from the fort by a wide esplanade.
Although the population is extremely limited
when compared with that of Colombo, the houses
are scattered over a much greater extent than
they are at the seat of government, but few
Europeans have settled at Trincomalee, conse-
quently the society is restricted to the families of
the military and civil officers who are stationed
there.

The native j)opulation is composed chiefly of
Malabars and Moors, who pay comparatively
little attention to agi'icultural pursuits, conse-
quently large tracts of valuable land remain un-
cultivated. The government offices are compa-
ratively few ; the religious edifices are calculated
for the accommodation of much larger congrega-
tions than are likely ever to fill their walls, as,
from the insalubrity of the climate, few Euro-
peans would reside at Trincomalee unless neces-
sity compels them to do so. The Wesleyans
and Roman Catholics have each appropriate
jjlaces of worship, and the natives likewise have
their temples and mosques.

The fort is garrisoned by a detachment of our

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 107

soldiers, and the Ceylon Rifles, and our troops
evince great dislike to being sent to this station,
as the enervating nature and excessive heat of
the climate, the thermometer ranging from 74",
to 91° throughout the year, almost incapacitate
Europeans from exerting themselves, especially
when encumbered with a soldier's uniform and
accoutrements. Occasionally spasmodic cholera
will break out suddenly in a most virulent form,
attacking and destroying alike in a few hours
the European and the native, the drunken and
the sober, the brave man and the coward, the
happy and the wretched, and after committing
fearful ravages will as suddenly cease. Never-
theless, cholera is always more prevalent in
Trincomalee and Jaffnapatam, than in other parts
of Ceylon.

If we are to credit traditions, Trincomalee
appears to have been well known in the earliest
ages, as it is stated there was a temple erected
on this spot, that was celebrated all over the
continent of India. Brahminical records declare
that in the earliest wars of the gods, three of the
peaks of the Maha-meru, or abode of celestial
beings, were thrown down, and driven into
various parts of the earth, and that one of thestf

108 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

is Trincomalee, and that it immediately became
the abode of Siva, or Eiswara.

The heir apparent of Manoo Salen, sovereign
of the Coroniandel coast, hearing of the sanctity
of Trincomalee, left his father's dominions,
erected a temple to the god, on the summit of
the rock, built a town, constituted a Malabar
chief the governor of the city and adjacent
country, inviting his father's subjects and other
emigrants to settle there. This is stated to have
occurred 1589 B.C., and, although this early date
cannot be authenticated by the testimony of con-
temporary writers, the Malabars possess several
works in the Tamil tongue that profess to de-
scribe the beauty of this temple and other sacred
buildings.

Cingalese historical records to some extent
corroborate the Tamil, as they say their King,
Gaja Bahoo, who reigned between 1 13 A.D.,
and 125, gave rice-fields and lands as endow-
ments to the temple for entertaining the inten-
tion of destroying the fane of Siva, and building
anew one to Buddha in its place. The Cingalese
account also states that Gaja Bahoo took the
natives of the Coromandel coast prisoners, and
sent them to Trincomalee ; whilst the Tamil

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 109

writers declare that at a much earlier period,
their forefathers had voluntarily emigrated to
this spot.

Without attempting to reconcile these con-
flicting statements, it is an indisputable fact, that
in the second century of our era, and during the
reign of the Cingalese monarch, Gaja Bahoo,
a colony was established at Trincomalee, and it
is rather remarkable that many of the Malabars
at Trincomalee can distinctly trace back their
pedigree to the period above named.

The promontory on which the fort is built is
dedicated to Siva, and this rock is regarded Avith
peculiar veneration by the god's worshippers, as
they believe that on this spot the first temple
dedicated to his service, by the Prince Kala-
kootu (the king's son before alluded to) was
erected. Some oriental scholars maintain that
Siva means desti-oyer, whilst Wilson, who is no
mean authority, states in his Sanscrit dictionary,
that Eiswara, the ancient designation for Siva, is
" an universal spirit."

Although every vestige of the temple has long
since been obliterated, at stated periods oblations
are offered to the god on the presumed site of
his original temple. Shortly before sunset, the
Brahmin priest ascends the rock, wearing a

no CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

peculiar costume for the occasion, which consists
of a yellow cloth twisted round his loins, and a
chaplet of large and many-coloured beads bound
around his brow. The officiating priest climbs
to a lofty part of the rock that overhangs the
sea; the subordinate priests standing upon the
adjacent crags, some of the worshippers ranging
themselves by their side, whilst others stand or
kneel in more secure situations.

The priest first performs various ablutions,
then makes several low salaams towards a deep
chasm in the rock, (in which the deluded beings
suppose the god they worship dwells,) casting
rice and betel leaves into the fathomless ocean
that rolls below ; then again bows lowly to the
chasm, and stands in a devotional attitude gazing
upon the sun. So soon as the sun touches the
waters, a subordinate priest hands a species of
censer to his superior, who holds the vessel
above his head with one hand, waving it to and
fi'o in the air ; he then ignites the incense, which
being composed of inflammable and fragrant pre-
paration, bursts instantaneously into lurid flames,
diffusing a powerful perfume around. When the
flame has subsided, the priest casts two young
cocoa-nuts into the ocean, and receives the
oblations and offerings of the congi'egation, for

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 111

the god. When these have been collected, both
priests and people make low reverences, in the
direction of the chasm, and the service concludes
with a few muttered words from the officiating
Brahmin.

The offerings made by the devotees are of
little value, as they consist of small quantities of
rice, betel leaves, flowers, and cocoa-nuts, and,
when money is presented, the coins are generally
copper. This ceremony is remarkably interesting,
as it undoubtedly is one of great antiquity ; and,
from being performed upon a lofty precipice,
whose steep sides beetle o'er the deep, and at
the hour of sunset, has a character of mystery
and wildness about it, that bears a stronger affi-
nity to romance, than to the realities of life.

As recently as 1622, an extensive range of
temples dedicated to Siva, were levelled by
the Portuguese, when Trincomalee was in their
possession, and they applied the materials,
to the construction of a portion of the fortifi-
cations.

Above the part of the promontory where the
officiating priest worships the god, is a monu-
mental pillar, erected to the memory of Francina
van Rhede, who in 1687 committed suicide by
leaping from a projecting crag. A lengthy in-

112 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

scription was originally carved upon tlie pillar,
but time and exposure to the elements have
nearly obliterated the whole, leaving merely the
name, date, and a few words visible. Tradition
has handed down the cause of the sinful act, and
some descendants of the lady's family are still
in Ceylon.

Francina van Rhede was the daughter of a
Dutch gentleman in the government sei-vice ; and
had formed an attachment to an officer in the
army, which was sanctioned by her father, and
the day was fixed for the celebration of the nup-
tials. Misunderstandings arose as to the amount
of the bride's dowry, and other matters being
disputed, the intended bridegi'oom broke ofi" the
match, and shortly after obtained leave to return
to Europe. The unfortunate and misguided
girl, rendered desperate by the desertion of her
lover, resolved that he should not leave the
island during her lifetime ; and, having obtained
information as to the time of the ship's sailing,
watched from her chamber-window the sails
spread that were to waft him from the cinnamon
isle.

Before clearing the coast, the vessel was com-
pelled to tack, and pass close to the precipices
that bound the southern part of the Fort. For

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 113

this moment she had watched ; she rushed from
her dwelling, darted along the edge of the cliffs,
under which the swift vessel was gliding, for an
instant balanced on an overhanging crag, then,
with a wild exclamation of revengeful despair,
leaped from the giddy height, and was dashed
against the rocks below. With some difficulty,
her mangled remains were collected, by the order
of her heart-broken father, to receive christian
burial ; and, although we can only hope the act
of self-murder was perpetrated during temporary
insanity, as that alone can extenuate the com-
mission of so fearful a crime, we have often felt
surprise that the family should have commemo-
rated so awful an occurrence by the erection of
a pillar in this conspicuous situation.

Some of the quartz rocks at Trincomalee have
a most picturesque appearance from the sea, and
a low hill, (that extends a distance of nearly two
miles,) from Chapel Point to the opposite one of
Fort Ostenburgh, has a fantastic and singular
aspect. The sides of the rock are precipitous,
being perfectly bare, standing out like denuded
veins, exhibiting a strong similitude to the ruins
and columns of ancient monastic edifices. The
principal route through the island ends at Trin-

114 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

comalee ; for though roads diverge at various
points both at Galle, Colombo, and Kandy, the
main road commences at the former town and
terminates at the latter.

CEYLON AND THK CINGALESE. 115

CHAPTER VI.

Newera EUia — The sanatorium of the island — The road —
Mountain conflagration — Convalescent station for the
military, estahlished 1829 — Cascades of Ramhodde —
Newera EUia a royal residence in 1628 — Scenery — Euro-
pean aspect of the dwellings — Vegetation — The town —
Public buildings — Salubrity of the climate — Farming ex-
periments— Great capabilities and fertile soU of Newera
EUia — Proposed plan of emigration — Price of stock and
produce — Iron found on the plain — Carnage roads — Foot-
path to the summit of Pedi'o-taUa galla — Horton Plains,
the highest table-land in Ceylon — Luxuriant specimens
of the Nepenthes distUlatoria, or pitcher plant — Nelu, or
honey plant.

The road to Newara Ellia, the sanitoriura and
convalescent military station of Ceylon, (called
by the natives the City of the Plain,) commences
at the Peredenia bridge, three miles from Kandy,

116 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

whence it runs through tlie mountainous parts of
the island, which are celebrated in Cingalese
records from being connected with the names of
the heroes, Rama, Rawana, and the lovely Seeta.
The route winds round precipitous slopes, the
recesses of which, from their peculiar formation,
are called the Devil's Punchbowls, and, during
the whole of the journey, wide-spread valleys,
gently undulating ground, flowing rivers, towering
mountains, gushing cascades, and a well-wooded
country, are passed in quick succession by the
delighted traveller. Moreover, the invigorating
coolness of the atmosphere, as the higher ground
is reached, enables an European to enjoy
the exquisite scenery in comfort. Some will
commence the journey in the after part of the
day, remaining at Gampola, twelve miles from
Kandy, (where there is the best Rest-house
in the island,) for the express purpose of witness-
ing the sublime spectacle of a mountain confla-
gration, which frequently occurs during the hot
and dry season.

The mountain of Ambulawe overhangs Gam-
pala, and the coarse vegetation which clothes it
frequently ignites spontaneously : much of the
grass grows to a height of seven or eight feet,
being distributed over the hill in patches ; this

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 117

peculiar herbage being one of the characteristic
productions of Ceylon, called lemon-grass, or
Andrapogon Schsenanthus, and in this part of the
island generally covers the hills that are not over-
gi'own with underwood and jungle.

The appearance of this burning grass is most
magnificent : a lurid flame suddenly bursts forth
in distinct spots over the mountain, and the con-
flagi'ation goes on rapidly against the wind, the
breeze causing the long grass to bend towards
the flames, which drying it instantaneously, im-
mediately ignites, casting around a lurid light.
When the blaze has subsided, myriads of sparks,
bome aloft with the volume of dense smoke,
illumine the atmosphere ; or, falling upon other
tufts of grass, set fire to them also. By these
means the conflagration extends, a loud crackling
sound being perceptible in the immediate neigh-
bourhood, and in the distance a roaring hollow
sound, until the advancing flames are arrested by
the dense woods that clothe each ravine. What
appears extraordinary is, that the roots of the
Andrapogon Schaenanthus are neither injured
nor desti'oyed by the conflagi^ation, for, after a
two-days' rain, from the midst of the calcined and
blackened masses the young shoots will burst
forth ; and in a week the whole mountain will be

118 CEYLON A.ND THE CINGALESE.

again dotted over with patches of waving grass of
the most brilliant green.

Newera Ellia was first visited by Dr. Davy in
1819, and, although he at once saw and stated the
immense advantages to be derived from its salu-
brious and temperate atmosphere, it was not until
ten years had elapsed that a military convalescent
station was established on this spot, and this
desirable measure was adopted in 1829 by Sir
Edward Barnes. Many serious difficulties had
to be contended with in the formation of the
latter part of the road, as from Rambodde to the
plains the route through the pass is on an in-
clined plane, which ascends one foot in every
fourteen. Even now much difficulty is experi-
enced in keeping the road in repair, for continu-
ally masses of soil and stones roll from the
mountain's sides and block up the path. It is
rather singular that it should have been during
the government of Sir Edward Barnes that nearly
every important road in Ceylon was either com-
menced or completed, and these vast undertak-
ings were carried into execution before the aboli-
tion of compulsory labour.

The cascades of Rambodde are superb, and
during the rainy season the vast volume of the
torrents that dash down is incredible, the noise

6

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 119

of the waterfalls being heard distinctly at a
considerable distance. Near Rambodde is the
lovely valley of Kotmaale, through vphich mean-
ders a flowing stream, whose waters possess
peculiar efficacy, according to the superstitious
belief of the natives ; as they assert that whatever
woman bathes in the river within three months
after she becomes a wife, will be blessed with a
beautiful, numerous, and fortunate family.

From the summit of Rambodde Pass the first
clear view of Newera Ellia is obtained, which
lies about six thousand three hundred feet above
the sea ; and, although it is called a plain, it is
not such in reality, as a chain of hills, running
from south-west to north-east, divide it unequally.
When we took possession of this place, in 1829,
the only vestiges found of former occupants were
the remains of a temple, and one or two build-
ings, although it is an historical fact, that the
Queen of Kandy, in 1628, here took up a tempo-
rary abode after her second marriage, when she
was compelled to leave the capital by the Portu-
guese.

Game abounds in this district, and it was in
Iftie pursuit of elk that a party of our officers dis-
covered the plains, some natives having volun-
teered to conduct them to a spot where the

1-20 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

animals abounded. The boldness of the scenery
aroimd Newera Ellia can only be equalled by
that of Snowdon, as it is encircled on every side
by craggy mountains, amongst which is the
loftiest mountain in Ceylon, Pedro-talla-galla,
whose towering peak rises eight thousand three
hundred feet above the ocean's level.

The plain is dotted over with white-washed
residences, recalling many home recollections,
for on the roof of every dwelling are to be seen
chimneys ; the cool and bracing atmosphere not
only rendering fires pleasant morning and even-
ing, but causing them to be absolutely neces-
sary. To those who have not visited the
tropics this remark may appear puerile, but
will be fully appreciated by those who have
sojourned in the east, for none can tell, save the
latter, the feeling of strangeness that pervades
the mind when the beholder first looks upon
dwellings unmarked by this sign of the household
hearth.

Nothing about Newera Ellia Plain tells of the
tropics, the bracing air enabling Europeans to
walk out at any hour of the day, the mental and
1)odily faculties soon regain their lost vigour, the'
frame is invigorated, the palled appetite recovers
its tone, and speedily the hollow sallow cheek

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 121

becomes rounded, and assumes health's roseate
hue ; many a desponding invalid, whose large
family and slender means forbade return to his
native land, has reason to bless the day the
sanitorium of Lanka-diva was discovered.

The beauties of vegetation also wear a fami-
liar aspect as the eye is gladdened with floral
gifts that appertain especially to the temperate
zone, such as rhododendrons, the white guelder,
damask, and pink rose-trees, violets, sweet-peas,
acacia, peach, apple and pear-trees, with nearly
every fruit and vegetable that are produced or
consumed by us, can be met with in the imme-
diate neighbourhood. And all this is found
upon the summit of a mountain seven degrees
from the equator, where occasionally the ther-
mometer has fallen below 28°, and where ice
half an inch in thickness is sometimes found
in the morning.

The town of Newera EUia stands upon a plain,
6,300 feet above the level of the sea, and from this
table-land mountains rise in various directions,
diversified with gentle slopes and undulations,
over which are scattered various residences.
Perpetual cascades burst from the sides of the
neighbouring mountains, and pure rapid streams
of wholesome water wind through the valleys,

VOL. I. G

\-2-2 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

whilst much valuable timber clothes the hills ;
and for an extent of several miles well watered,
and alternate plains, hills and dales, give the
sunounding scenery the appearance of a natural
park. A church has been built near the Go-
vernor's house, and there are also residences
belonging to the Bishop, Commander, Colonial
Secretaiy, and other governmeiit servants.

A detachment of our troops is always at
Newera Ellia, and their barracks, hospital, &c.,
are excellent. Throughout the district, from
November to the end of April, the thermometer
seldom rises above 65° Fahr., and, although frosts
are not unfi'equent during the night, snow is
unheard of : the temperature of the winter
months resembles the bracing atmosphere of
a fine October in England, and the summer
months combine the genial Avarmth of August
with the beneficial showers of April ; in short,
tlie oppressive atmosphere of the tropics is
unknown at Newera Ellia.

The soil varies as in Great Britain from the
rich brown to the black loam, and all English
produce succeeds in a most luxuriant manner,
although hitherto the farming has been almost
entirely in the hands of the natives, who, not-
withstanding their ignorance of the subject,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 128

have amassed large sums from the cultiva-
tion of potatoes, carrots, turnips, aud other
vegetables ; their farming experiments not ex-
tending beyond these simple endeavours. Many
gentlemen for their amusement have planted Eng-
lish grass, clover, wheat, oats, barley, beans, peas,
and have found green crops of every description
thrive and yield in the most extraordinary man-
ner.

It has afforded us great pleasure to peruse the
circular of Mr. Baker, an energetic and enter-
prising gentleman, who has located himself at
Newera Ellia, wherein he sets forth in most
glowing language, the agricidtural advantages
which this district possesses, and where an ar-
rangement has lately been made for opening a
new field for agricultural enterprise ; suggesting
also a system of emigration, which offers both
peculiar advantages to the colonist, and ensures
him, on his aiTival in Ceylon, a comfortable farm
with a dwelling-house and requisite buildings,
ready for his immediate occupation. This fore-
thought for the emigrant's comfort, the writer
very justly remai'ks, obviates his exposure to the
usual hardships experienced by those, who under
ordinary circumstances seek to improve their fast-
decaying prospects in their fatherland, by migrat-

G 2

124 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

ing to uiiknown shores ; and the fact undeniably
bespeaks a most favourable impression for the
honesty, integrity, and sincerity of the promoter
of the scheme. Mr. Baker is said to have en-
gaged the services of seventeen English fann-
servants of both sexes, who, with a large supply
of farming implements, have ere this, in all pro-
bability, reached their destination, where that
gentleman is stationed exerting himself in the
development of his laudable plan, which, if suc-
cessful, must be alike beneficial to the colony,
and the new settlers.

Although we are not prepared to agree with
Mr. Baker in all his sanguine expectations of the
results likely to accrue from Newera Ellian emi-
gration, still, making due allowances, we think his
plan is most deserving of the serious considera-
tion of those amongst our own Irish fanners, who
contemplate a change, and we wish him, and
those British subjects who may follow him, the
success which his energy, honesty, and fore-
thought so eminently deserve. The circular
before us draws most forcibly the contrast be-
tween the settler proceeding to Australia, or Ame-
rica, and the emigrant to Ceylon, the former
landing in a wild and barren country, houseless
and friendless, with nothing but the certainty of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 1*25

the greatest privations before him ; while the latter
is landed free of expense in Ceylon, and without
delay takes possession of his farm, and, settled in
his house, is ready to commence his operations
immediately.

We can bear witness to the advantages offered
in this mountain district for a European settle-
ment, and the only matter of astonishment is,
that so many years of British rule should have
elapsed before the attempt was made. Newera
Ellia is a district blessed with a peculiarly salu-
brious climate, and in every way adapted for the
production of those necessaries of life, which at
this moment are imported into the colony at an
enoraious expense, and capable of raising sup-
plies considerably beyond the wants of the in-
habitants, for which ready markets may be ob-
tained. The natives, says Mr. Baker, now
produce five successive crops of potatoes fi'om
the same land : thus, even from their ignorant
farming, they adduce a proof of the pecidiar
quality of the soil.

Stock of all kinds is remarkably cheap, and
the draught buffalo is an animal which entirely
supersedes the horse for all heavy work, not only
on account of his great strength, but from the
fact of his requiring no other food than pasture.

126 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Cows and buffaloes may be purchased from 25*. to
40.?. per head ; sheep, from 36". to 7s. ; pigs from 3«.
to Is. ; fowls, from 7s. per dozen ; ducks, from 12*.
ditto. Mr. Baker proceeds to show that, notwith-
standing the very low price of stock, fine meat is
unknown in Ceylon, the beasts being unfattened,
and slaughtered without discretion. Although in
many parts of the island the calf is permitted to take
the whole supply from the mother, yet not a cheese
has ever been manufactured in Ceylon, and but-
ter sells for 2.5. Qd. per pound. Notwithstanding
the abundance and cheapness of pigs, hams and
bacon have never been cured ; and yet all these
articles are consumed in large quantities, and
imported from England at an enormous price,
cheese, hams, and bacon being generally sold at
2*. per pound.

All these articles may be prepared at Newera
EUia, with the same facility, and at one-fourth of
the cost, of those produced in England, and
would therefore sell at a large profit both for
home consumption and for exportation. The
island is chiefly supplied by Bombay with pota-
toes, but those of a superior quality now pro-
duced at Newera Ellia sell at 28.s". per cwt. In
three months from the planting of the sets, they
are fit to dig, and one set has frequently been

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 1*2/

known to yield fifty potatoes. Wheat has been
experimented upon, and the quality produced
proved infinitely superior to the seed imported,
and yet Ceylon is entirely dependant ujjon Ame-
rica for the supply of ilour. Oats and beans
thrive well, but have been neglected, conse-
quently the horses in the island are fed expen-
sively upon paddy and gram, the principal
portion of which is imported from India: thus
a most extensive market is open to supply the
home market, as well as that of the Mauritius.

Mr. Baker offers to the enterprising farmer of
small capital, a comfortable and most profitable
fann, free from those heavy taxes which burthen
his industry at home, where he may not only
amass a considerable fortune, but may live a
happy, luxurious life, with the advantages of
residing in a comparatively civilized society, with
a school for the education of his children, and
the house of God within his reach.

We feel bound to correct an error of Mr.
Baker's, who states that cheese and hams were
never produced in Ceylon, as the former have
been made, and we believe are still, at the island
of Delft, near Jaffna, and also at Manear ; the
latter have been cured at Newera Ellia by British
soldiers — however this has nothing to do with the

128 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

fact, which must be apparent to the meanest ca-
pacity, that were those articles produced at New-
era EUia equal to the English, they would bring
remunerative prices to the farmer. We should
also observe another mistake, namely, that the
Colony is not entirel}- dependant upon America for
flour, large quantities being annually imported
from the Bombay Presidency. In respect also
to the successive crops of potatoes, we fear the
promoter has overlooked the necessity of manure,
and his circular makes no mention of whence he
]3roposes to derive his supply, as well as the fact,
that in all probability the market would be limited
to the European population of the island. We
have been informed that recently potatoes grown
at Newera Ellia were offered in the Colombo
market at 24^. per cwt. being four shillings less
than stated by Mr. Baker.

We repeat that the scheme of Mr. Baker is
highly deserving of consideration ; what he states
of the climate, circumstances, and position of the
settlement is perfectly correct, and there can be
little doubt that the fattening and improving of
the breeds, both of cattle and poultry, would be
remunerative, as well as the gi-owing of seed and
green crops — luxuries and enormous fortunes are
out of the question — some comfort and an honest

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 129

livelihood are to be found ; and we should think
that there is a good opening for some able-bodied
industrious Irish labourers, and their wives and
families, who are more inured to hardships than
their English neighbours ; the men could be con-
stantly employed in this delightful climate in the
cultivation of the soil, while their women might
find profitable employment in dairies and poultry-
yards.

The difficulties are great which encompass the
agriculturist in Ceylon, for want of a sure supply
of labourers. The local press is full of constant
complaints and communications on the subject
such as these, — " Some estates are hard up for
coolees, and very few are appearing from tTie
coast. Indeed if it be true, as it is said, that in
their own country fine rains have fallen after long
drought, filling their tanks and fertilizing their
lands, we cannot expect men, for it is only in
their exigency, having no work in their own
country, that the Malabars come here."

" Accounts of the most deplorable nature con-
tinue to reach us on the difficulty of obtaining
coolees. There is every reason to apprehend
that a large portion of the crops will be lost for
want of hands." "A friend has just been here on
his way to the Four Korles in search of coolees.

G 5

130 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

He gives a most melancholy account of the
scarcity of labour which prevails everywhere.
Nearly all his coolees have bolted, and there is
little hope of being able to replace them. Happy
is the man who can muster thirty coolees on an
estate of three hundred acres in bearing. Nearly
all the superintendents have gone to look for
coolees, with but faint hopes of success, and the
comfortable conviction, that if they do not suc-
ceed, the crop must be entirely lost. On some
large estates the coolees have fled to a man."

By the foregoing, our readers will perceive that
the agriculturist in Ceylon is entirely dependant
for labour upon the periodical visits of the coolees
from the Malabar coast, who require but little for
their support, which consists for the most part of
rice, and when they have acquired a small sum
in wages, immediately return to their families, re-
gardless of acquiring more money, and leaving
their employers without notice, or redress.

Taking this fact, therefore, into consideration,
as well as the utter hopelessness of being able to
induce the Cingalese to work, if they have suffi-
cient food to eat, and which they can procure
with very slight exertion, it would appear to us
to be indispensably requisite, as an element of
success in Mr. Baker's undertaking, to secure the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 131

assistance of a sufficient number of Irish, English,
or Scotch labourers, who, being accompanied by
their families, would not have the same induce-
ment to make a speedy retreat after the Malabar
fashion. The Irish, we know from experience,
have many good qualities, and that of attaching
themselves to those who give them food and rai-
ment, and treat them with consideration, is not
the least; and Paddy is a right good fellow at
heart, when beyond the reach of political agita-
tion. For all fiu'ther particulars on the subject of
the settlement at Newera Ellia, we refer our reader
to the promoter, S. W. Baker, Esq., whose circu-
lar is dated from No. 4, Wolseley Terrace, Chel-
tenham.

Iron of good quality is found on the plain, and
the natives say that formerly precious stones were
also occasionally met with in the swamps about
Newera Ellia. This statement is disbelieved by
many, although excavations are still to be setn
that were made by the gem-seekers ; and we, w lit)
know the inert disposition of the Asiatics, can
hardly imagine they would have exerted them-
selves, had they not anticipated and found proht
arise from their toil. Dr. Davy alludes to these
jewel-hunters, for he writes, in 1819, "There is
good reason to believe that tlie individuals en-

132 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

gaged in this pursuit, who are not very numerous,
and chiefly Moormen, would be better employed
in cultivating the ground that they ransack."
Carnage -roads and paths have been constructed
around and through the plain, which branch off'
into the surrounding valleys and wind round the
mountain's base ; and a foot-way has been con-
structed that leads to the cloud-capped crest of
Pedro-talla-Galla.

The ascent of the mountain is remarkably steep
and fatiguing; nevertheless, we have known ladies
attempt and accomplish this hazardous journey,
and have been well rewarded for their exertion
by the sublime scenery that surrounds " Mat
wove rock," the altitude of which, as we have
previously remarked, is eight thousand three hun-
dred feet above the sea. The richest and most
luxuriant parts of Ceylon, namely. Upper and
Lower Ouva, are seen in the distance, and in the
background towers Samenella, or Adam's Peak,
clothed in perpetual verdure; whilst the projecting
mass of the nearer mountains are distinctly visible,
whose bold sides are clad with impervious forest
and dense underwood.

The highest table-land in the island is situated
some few miles from Newera Elba, and is called
the Horton Plains, as it was discovered during the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 133

time Sir Wilmot Hortoii governed Ceylon. This
district is celebrated for the rich botanical speci-
mens that it affords, the most curious of Avhich is
the pitcher plant, (Nepenthes distillatoria,) that
thrives and grows in great luxuriance, as the
extraordinary blossom, or vessel from which the
plant derives its name, is frequently ten or eleven
inches long, and the graceful effect of these beau-
tiful productions, as the breeze plays among them,
is indescribable.

In this neighbourhood a plant flourishes that
is called by the natives nelu, or honey-plant, as
the flowers emit a powerful effluvia resembling
new honey. This is a jointed plant that flowers
but once in eight years, and, as the blossoms
decay, large numbers of bees appear to be at-
tracted by the peculiar effluvia ; and so delighted
are the insects, that chisters of them will hang-
suspended from the branches for hours. Around
the nelu-plant a leafless parasite often entwines,
whose beautiful blossoms are bell-shaped, having
amber hearts and scarlet edges ; and as these
appear to be united with the nelu at the root, the
natives declare that this plant bears two kinds of
flowers, which are totally distinct in form and
colour.

134 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

CHAPTER VII.

Geological character of the island — Minerals — Salt lakes
— Revenue arising from tliem — Tanks — Agriculture — Na-
tive plough — Mystic rite when the paddy is trodden out
— Cultivation — Lemon grass — Value and uses of cocoa-
nut trees — Cinnamon — Coffee — Sugar — Cotton — Tobacco
— Areka nuts — Ambuprasudana, or water nut — Jack and
bread-fruit trees — Indigo — Mulberry trees — Talapat palm
— Mee tree — Ebony tree — Calamander tree — Red sandal
and satin-wood trees — The kabook tree — Variety of the
vegetable world — The bo, or sacred tree — Capabilities of
cultivation and extraordinary fertility of the soil — Ex-
pense of housekeeping — Prices of provisions at Galle and
Colombo — Meat — Poultry — Fish and fisheries — Fruit —
Vegetables — Servants' wages — House-rent — Same at
Kandy and Newera Eilia.

The simile of a pearl, to which Lanka is
likened, is most peculiarly appropriate, not only
in reference to the form of the island, but from

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 135

the natural beauty of its scenery, the productive-
ness of its soil, and the richness of its mineral
kingdom. We have previously referred to the
beauty of the scenery, which we have witnessed
with such deepfelt gratification, and we purjjose
devoting this chapter to the mineral construction,
produce, revenue, and capabilities of Ceylon.

The geological character of the country is dis-
tinguishable for uniformity ; primitive rock, with
little exception, constituting the whole island.
The exceptions consist of recent fonnations, and
are only to be found in the neighbourhood of
Jaffnapatam, and at a few places along the shore.
The varieties of primitive rock are innumerable,
but the species are ill defined and few. Granite
is the most dominant species, whilst domolite,
quartz, and hornblend, are less li-equently to be
met with. Gneiss and granite exist in countless
varieties, and offer considerable difficulty to the
mineralogist, who attempts to name them. Fine-
grained grey coloured granite is occasionally to
be met with, and the best we have seen was at
Point de Galle, but graphic granite is still less
common. We have seen, however, veiy beautiful
specimens from the sea shore in the vicinity of
Trincomalee, in which the quartz is of a grey or

13b' CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

blackish-coloured rock crystal, and the felspar of
a vivid fleshy hue.

Gneiss and sienite are found in the Kandian
provinces ; the former is very abundant and beau-
tiful, and is composed of quartz and white felspar,
with black mica and innumerable garnets of a
pale colour. Hornblend, dolomite, and quartz
are rarely to be seen in massive forms. Horn-
blend and greenstone are plentiful, forming por-
tions of hills in the Kandian provinces, but it is
not believed that they constitute the whole forma-
tion of any hill, or mountain. Dolomite is found
in as large varieties as granite, generally crysta-
line and of a pure white colour, and very fre-
(piently it is formed of rhombs, which a blow of a
hammer separates with facility. It is met with
imbedded, and in veins, and in this form it
abounds in Kandy ; while small hills are com-
posed of it in other parts of the island. In
ancient days, dolomite was exclusively appropri-
ated for the use of the king. Quartz is very
abundant, and a very remarkable hill is com-
pletely formed of this rock in the neighbourhood
of Trincomalee ; on the side towards the sea the
hill is laid bare, and presents to the spectator the
appearance of a mass of ruinous buildings, and

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 137

possibly owing to this, the name of Chapel Point
was given to one end of this hill.

In the north of the island, at JafFnapatam, which
is at once the most populous and productive por-
tion of Ceylon, we find two instances of recent
formation, namely sandstone and limestone.
Sandstone however cannot be said to be confined
to this district, as it is found in a variety of
places, extending round the coast, in general be-
tween high and low water-mark, where it is seen
in horizontal stratified beds. In some instances,
the sandstone is very dark coloured, approaching
to black, and in others it is of a greyish yellow
colour.

Limestone however has been considered, and is
believed, to be confined to the north ; it is very
compact, of a fine grain, containing innumerable
shells, of a pale brown or grey colour, and its
fracture is conchoidal.

Iron and manganese are the only metallic ores
of any consequence which have been discovered
in Ceylon : the former is plentiful, and may be
found all over the island, either as magnetic iron,
bog iron, red hematite, iron pyrites, specidar iron,
or blue phosphate of iron. But we do not know
of any vein, or large bed, of iron ore having as
yet been discovered in Ceylon. Black oxide of

138 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

manganese occurs scattered and imbedded in
gigantic rocks in small quantities, but at so great a
distance inland, that the can-iage would be too
expensive to admit of a profitable export trade.
It is very remarkable, that no other metals have
as yet been discovered, in a country, where the
nature of the rock would indicate their existence.
However, although some authors have asserted,
that gold and mercury are found native in Ceylon,
such we believe to be most incorrect, and we
have never heard, that either lead, copper, or tin,
has as yet been discovered.

Lanka-diva abounds in every variety of the
quartz family ; hyalite, ^chalcedony, iron flint, and
rock-crystal, which latter is found crystallized and
massive, in great quantities, and of a variety of
colours. This is made use of by the Cingalese,
who form lenses for spectacles from it, and
employ it for statuary and ornamental purposes.
Rose quartz, phrase, amethyst, and cat's eye, are
also abundant. The Ceylon cat's eye is the most
valuable in existence, and is much more prized
there, than in Europe.

Topaz and schorl are also found in Ceylon ; the
former is commonly of a yellowish, or bluish-white
colour, but perfect crystals of it are very rarely to
be met with. Common schorl occurs very plenti-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 139

fully ill granitic rocks, and in some places, it is
mixed with felspar and quartz ; tourmalin is oc-
casionally to be met with, but of a very inferior
description, and these are either of red, green, or
honey colour.

In the granitic rock, garnet, cinnamon-stone
and pyrope abound, and the common garnet is
found diffused in gneiss through the whole island,
the crystals however are diminutive and ill-
defined. The precious garnet occurs in horn-
blend rock in the neighbourhood of Trincomalee,
but of an inferior description. Cinnamon-stone
has heretofore been exclusively found in Ceylon,
where it is very abundant, although confined to
particular districts, and is principally met with in
Matura. It is found in very large masses of
many pounds in weight, and small pieces of irre-
gular form in the granitic alluvial. The zircon,
called by the Cingalese " Matura diamond,"
which is found in the island, is considered to be
the best in the world; besides zircon and hya-
cinth, there is another species in Ceylon, which is
opaque, uncrystallized, and massive. Zircon is
found both of yellow, green, red, and light grey
colours, which the native merchants dispose of
respectively for topaz, tourmalin, rubies, and
diamonds.

140 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Ceylon has for a considerable period been
renowned for its rubies, of which there are four
species, namely sapphire, spinell, chrysoberyl,
and corundum, which are found in granitic rock.
The principal varieties of sapphire, such as red,
purple, yellow, blue, white, and star stone, are
met with, sometimes of large size, and in perfec-
tion at Matura, SafFragam, and other places. The
purple, or oriental amethyst, is rare, and the green
still more so. Spinell is very rare, and is occa-
sionally met with in the clay-iron ore in the
Kandian provinces, where gneiss is abundant.
Chrysoberyl is peculiarly rare, and is said gene-
rally to come from SafFragam. Corundum is very
plentiful at a place called Battagammana, where
it is found on the banks of a small river, called
Agiri Kandura ; it is of a brownish colour, and is
in the form of large six-sided prisms.

In the family of felspar, Ceylon produces
tablespar, Labrador stone, adularia, glassy felspar,
compact felspar, and common felspar. The La-
brador stone is found at Trincomalee, and adula-
ria is plentiful in Kandy. Common hornblend is
abundant, and glassy tremolite and pitch-stone
occur in the neighbourhood of Trincomalee.

Mica, forming a component part of granite and
gneiss, is very plentiful, and frequently is found

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. ]41

enclosed in these rocks, where it occurs in very
extensive flakes, which the Cingalese employ for
ornamental purposes. Green earth is rather un-
common ; but is found in Lower Ouva of a green
and pea-green colour. At Galle and Trincomalee
common chlorite is found scattered through
quartz. Talc, dolomite, carbonate of magnesia,
and native carbonate of magnesia, are occasion-
ally discovered. Sulphur and graphite also occur,
the former rarely, but the latter is abundant in
SafFragam.

Nitrate of lime and nitre are very common, and
the nitre caves appear to be formed of carbonate
of lime and felspar.

Salt lakes exist to a large extent in the district
called Megam-pattoo, on the sea shore, and which
in all probability are supplied fi'om the sea, as
the saline contents of both prove to be of a simi-
lar nature. The salt monopoly produces the
government a yearly revenue of 5t'42,000, and,
were this portion of government property super-
intended and conducted upon scientific princi-
ples, there can be little doubt that the revenue
would be twice, if not three times the ainount.
It appears to us rather extraordinary, that the
attention of the home and colonial government
has not been directed to such a legitimate source

142 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

of revenue, in preference to the tax vipon dogs,
and such like, which has created so much discon-
tent amongst the followers of Buddha.

All the soils of the island appear to have origi-
nated from decomposed granite rock, gneiss, or
clay-iron stone, and in the majority of cases
quartz is the largest, and frequently nearly the
sole ingredient. It is very remarkable that the
natural soils of Lanka-diva do not contain more
than between one and three per cent, of vegetable
substance, which may be attributed to the rapid
decom])osition, occasioned by a high degree of
temperature, and heavy falls of rain.

The most abundant crops are produced in the
dark brown loam, which is formed from decom-
posed granite and gneiss, or in reddish loam,
which is formed from Kabook stone, or clay-iron
stone. The soils, which have been found to pro-
duce inferior crops, are those in which a large
proportion of quartz is contained. The soil de-
rived fi-om clay-iron stone is of a reddish brown
colour, and has the property of retaining water for
a very long time, to which may be attributed its
productive quality. To the practical and scien-
tific agriculturists, Lanka-diva affords abundant op-
portunity for experiment and investigation, where
the soil is in a state of nature, and unimproved
by the admixture of any description of manure.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 143

Ceylon possesses one great advantage over
many other countries, namely, a very abundant
supply both of spring and river water, which, in
most instances, is of a pure description. The
ancient inhabitants of the island seem to have
been fully cognisant of the advantages of iiriga-
tion, and they availed themselves of the best
means to secure a constant supply of water for
the purpose. Tanks and lakes were constructed
by them, which irrigated the whole island, " and
were hardly suii^assed by the kindred wonders of
Egypt," and the ruins of these stupendous works
indicate a degree of prosperity, civilization, and
population, which can scarcely be credited by
those who visit the country at the present day.

It is much to be regretted that a British Colo-
nial Government, which has now been established
for upwards of half a century in Ceylon, should
not have learned a lesson from these gigantic
remains, and restored them to the useful jjui'jioses
for which they had originally been constructed.
Had such a course been adopted, capital and
labour would have been ex])ended to some pur-
pose, occupation and employment would have
been given to a population, who ai'e naturally in-
dolent, the country would have produced more
abundant crops, and the land would have been
rendered doublv valuable.

144 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

This important question has been under the
consideration of various colonial governments,
commencing with Sir Thomas Maitland, in the
year 1806, who proposed the restoration of the
tanks, and the Colonial Engineer of that period.
Captain Schneider, made his report upon the
subject, wherein he estimated the expense of
restoring the Giant's Tank, Cattoekare, at twenty-
five thousand pounds, and considered that it
would occupy three years. Tradition attributes
the construction of this national work to the
giants, which is by no means unreasonable, as
the people in those days must have been giants
at all events in energy, when compared with the
present race.

The tank is situated in a large tract of low
land near Mantotte in the northern province, and
covers a space of twenty thousand parrahs of
sowing land, a parrah being equal to about an
English bushel and a third ; it is bounded from
north-west to south by an earthen dyke, to con-
fine the water in the rainy season ; and, when
necessary, to irrigate the paddy-fields, which are
now broken, and in several places scarcely trace-
able.

On the south side, the river, during heavy
rains, carries the water from the high lands

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 145

to the sea, and at some seasons rises nine feet
above its banks, notwithstanding the bed of the
river is twelve feet in depth ; about nine miles
from the south end of the dam of Cattockare,
there is another, six hundred feet long, from forty
to sixty broad, and from eight to twelve in height,
built of large hewn stones, some measuring seven
and eight feet in length, from three to four in
breadth, and from two and a half to three in
thickness, firmly cemented together, which must
have been constructed at enormous labour. Near
to this dam there is a canal to lead the river-
water to the tank, but it has now the appearance
of not having been completed, and is broken at
several places. The height of the dam above the
level of the sea varies considerably, at some
places it is thirty-six feet, while at others it is
sixty-seven.

The natives consider that the water of the rivu-
lets running into Cattockare, independently of the
river, would be sufficient to supply the tank; if
this be the case it would cost a much smaller sum
than Captain Schneider's estimate, and would
consequently take a much shorter time to accom-
plish. Villages have been formed ivithin the
tank, whose inhabitants have constructed smaller
tanks for the irrigation of paddy-fields, which are

VOL. I. H

146

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

also cultivated within the same limits. A large
tract of country in the vicinity of the Giant's
Tank, is now unproductive, which might be con-
verted into paddy-fields if the people had the
means of artificial irrigation ; and it has been
calculated that if the tank were repaired, it would
be sufficient to irrigate land, capable of produc-
ing annually one hundred and fifty thousand bags
of rice. This one instance, therefore, we consider
sufficient for our purpose, without reference to the
other tanks and lakes of Ceylon, as ex uno disces
omnia.

After Sir Thomas Maitland, Sir Robert Brown-
rigg supported this measure, who was followed in
the same views by Sir Robert Plorton, and Mr.
Stewart M'Kenzie, all of whom concurred in the
opinion that the undertaking should be made a
government one ; still no scheme was arranged,
the tanks continue unrepaired, and the whole
question lay dormant until Sir Emerson Tennent,
the present Colonial Secretary resuscitated it
from the colonial archives, and it is to be hoped
that the same energy which has restored it to
light, will ere long devise a scheme whereby the
tanks and lakes may be gradually restored to their
original purposes of irrigation, an undertaking
which according to the report of the Committee of
6

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 147

Finance and Commerce " is so certain to repay
the revenue the whole, and more than the whole
of the expenditure incurred."

As the inhabitants are now compelled, either
to contribute labour or money towards the con-
struction or repairing of roads, this labour, or
subsidy, may be very fairly employed in the
equally, if not more beneficial work of repairing
these ancient fountains of wealth, whereby the
colony would become not only self-supporting,
but would export rice equal in amount to the
quantity for which she now exports specie.

Agriculture has been conducted in Ceylon by
the natives on the simplest principles, the culti-
vation pursued by them being of two descrip-
tions, namely, the dry, and wet. The chenas, or
grounds which are overgrown with underwood,
are cultivated in the dry manner, which is com-
menced by cutting down the jungle, by fencing
in that portion which is intended for cultivation,
and by consuming the timber which has not been
employed for the latter purpose ; the groimd is
immediately after turned up and sown. Great
care is subsequently required to protect the crops
from the wild animals which abound in Ceylon,
and accordingly the natives are obliged to keep
strict watch during the night.

H 2

148 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Those crops which are chiefly grown in dry
ground consist of a species of rice, called corri-
can, and Indian corn ; these are occasionally
weeded, and no further trouble is taken by the
agriculturist until the time of harvest, when the
crop is either reaped, or the heads of the com
are cut off, in case the straw is not preserved.
The chenas do not grow crops the second year,
first owing to the underwood, which soon springs
up into a plentiful crop, never having been pro-
perly extirpated, and secondly, owing to the want
of maniu'e, which is never employed. This dry
cultivation, however, is only adopted by the
poorest classes, and is very inconsiderable in
comparison with the wet, which is entirely used
for the growth of paddy. This last description
of cultivation requires an abundant supply of
water, and is followed by the natives in every part
of the island and in every locality, where sufficient
water can be commanded for the successive stages
of the paddy.

The fields devoted to the cultivation of paddy
are suiTounded by embankments ; each field is
flooded with water between tw^o and three inches
in depth, and, when sufficiently saturated, is
ploughed while under water ; this process is again
repeated, or the gTound is trodden by buffaloes

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. I4!>

until the whole is worked into mnd. The mud
thus formed is made perfectly level, the water
drawn off, and the paddy-seed, which has already
germinated, owing to its having been steeped in
water, is thrown over the muddy surface. Imme-
diately after the seed has struck root, the aper-
tures in the embankments, by means of which the
water was drawn off, ai"e closed up and the field
is re-flooded.

The weeds are carefully eradicated from the
paddy when it has attained about thi'ee inches in
height, and those parts of the field which appear
too thin, are supplied from others where tlie paddy
has sprung up too thickly. The field is kept
under water until the paddy is nearly ripe, when
it is again drained, and when ripe is reaped, and
immediately trodden upon the threshing-floor by
buffaloes. During the whole period from sowing
time until harvest, the farmer is obliged con-
tinually to watch the corn-field, day and night, to
prevent the destruction of his crop by wild ani-
mals. Where a sufficient supply of water can be
had, two and three crops are annually grown in
the same field, but where the farmer can only get
a supply in the rainy season he can only grow
one crop. This circumstance alone is sufficient
to prove the great advantages which would accrue

150 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

to the colony, from the repairing of the ancient
tanks and lakes.

Froro the want of water in the lowland districts,
as we have said, only one crop can be grown, and
the fields are generally of a large size ; but, in the
mountainous and higher districts, irrigation is
more conveniently managed, there being a more
abundant and easy supply of water ; and here, as
in China, cultivation is carried up the sides of
hills in the form of terraces, and the paddy may
often be seen in its various stages, in adjoining
fields, fi'om the newly sown to that which is being
reaped, and trodden out by buffaloes, or oxen.

The plough which is used in Ceylon is of a
most simple natm-e, the shear and single upright
handle being made out of a cui^ved piece of
timber ; the single handle is surmounted with a
cross-tree, a pole is fastened into a mortice with a
wedge, at the curve between the handle and shear,
while a yoke is attached by coir ropes to the
pole, which is fastened by coir cords to a pair of
buffaloes or oxen j one man in general holds the
plough, and guides the buffaloes, or oxen, with a
goad, occasionally urging them with his voice.

On every occasion where the plough is not, or
cannot be used, the mehmotte, or large ,hoe, of an {

unwieldy nature, is employed, which in their

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 151

hands is made a most useful implement. Instead
of a harrow after ploughing the ground, they em-
ploy an implement which they call anadatpoorooa,
which is a board with a pole, to which oxen or
buffaloes are yoked, and upon which the driver
sits. A lighter implement is used with the hand,
like a rake without teeth, for the purpose of pre-
paring the mud for paddy seed. The jungle-hook,
axe, and reaping hook, are all too similar to our
own implements to need description.

The treading out of the paddy is performed
upon a hard floor, prepared for the purpose by
beating the clay ; before the natives begin the
work, however, a mystic rite and incantation are
observed by the owner of the paddy, in the ex-
pectation of preserving the produce from the evil
spirits. The ceremony is performed by describ-
ing three circles, one within the other, on the
centre of the floor, with the ashes of wood, which
the owner scatters from a large leaf; the circles
are equally quartered by a cross, the four points
of which are terminated by a character resembling
a written letter M ; within the inner circle, the
owner lays some paddy straw, upon which he
places a few pieces of quartz and a small piece
of the kohomba tree, the whole of which he
covers over with paddy-straw j he then walks

152 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

round the cabalistic figure three times, and stops
at one of the ends, salaams three times with up-
raised hands, and finally prostrates himself upon
the earth, all the time repeating incantations.
Wlien this ceremony has been completed, the
paddy is piled upon the concentric circles, and
the buffaloes are immediately after urged to the
task of treading the corn.

In the vegetable kingdom, sweet potatoes, yams,
occus, brinjals, and other Eastern vegetables are
cultivated, but the natives do not construct regu-
lar gardens for the purpose. In Newera Ellia
English potatoes, cabbage, peas, and other Eu-
ropean vegetables have been introduced, and
they are grown there with great success, which
the climate will not admit of in other parts of the
island.

We must here inti'oduce the most characteristic
production of Lanka-diva, the Andropogon schce-
nanthus, or lemon-grass, which is a hard grass,
growing from two to eight feet in height, emitting
when crushed a powerful smell of lemon; very
agreeable in the first instance, but after a time
the effluvium is most oppressive aiid sickening;
in taste it is an acid of a very refreshing charac-
ter ; this grass is the usual clothing of the Kan-
dian hills, and when young is considered choice

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 15-3

pasture for buffaloes. We have seen a very fine
essential oil extracted fi-om this grass, which
would no doubt be most valuable to perfinners.

The cocoa-nut (Cocos nucifera) is very exten-
sively cultivated in Ceylon ; indeed nearly the
whole island is encircled with this useful and
productive tree, which may be justly designated
the summttm honum of the native population.
The cultivation of it is rapidly increasing, for
it is found to be a most valuable and safe invest'
ment of property, as it requires a trivial outlay,
and little further care than the planting, except
protection from cattle during the first two years ;
thriving as it does most luxuriantly in sandy soil,
and bearing fruit in the fifth j'ear. The estimated
value of the produce of a single tree is a rix dollar
per annum. This tree fi'equently exceeds one
hundi'ed feet in height, and there is no part of it
which is unproductive to the owner ; from the
flower he obtains toddy, from which the finest
arrack in the world is distilled, and from which
is also prepared a coarse-grained brown sugar,
called by the natives jaggery, and an excellent
description of vinegar.

The green fiiiit yields a delicious cooling bever-
age to the weary traveller, and a vegetable pul]),
highly esteemed by the natives j the ripened fruit

H 5

134 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

is also used as food, or oil is extracted from it,
which is now manufactured into candles and
soap, and the refuse, or oil cake, is used for
feeding cattle ; while the external husks, after
long soaking, are beaten into coir, which is now
well known in England, and is used for stuffing
mattresses, &c., and from which cordage and
matting are manufactured. The leaves, when
interwoven, are called cajan, and make excellent
thatch, and afford protection from the sun's rays, or,
when burned, are converted into an alkali. The
young leaves are used by the natives for a variety
of usefid and ornamental purposes, particularly
the latter on joyous and festive occasions, when
bamboo arches are decorated with them, and
brooms and mats are made from the young pine.
A medicinal oil is extracted from the bark,
which the native practitioners use as an effica-
cious remedy in cutaneous diseases ; the root is
also used for medicinal purposes, and its elastic
fibres are woven into strainers for liquids, while
the timber may be used in building, or conveil^ed
into beautiful articles of fm-niture-. But it would
be endless to describe the various additional uses
to which every portion of this valuable tree is
convertible, which are said to be upwards of one
hundred, and have formed the theme of many

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 1^0

native poets. There are annually exported from
the colony about eight thousand pounds' worth
of cocoa-nuts, thhty thousand pounds' worth ot
cocoa-nut oil, seven thousand pounds' worth ol
arrack, and ten thousand pounds' worth of coir.

Cinnamon (Laurus cinnamonum) is a staple
article of produce in Ceylon, but it is not neces-
sary for us here to enter upon the appearance of
the gardens, in which it is cultivated, or the mode
of barking the twigs, as we have described both
in a former chapter. A very accurate account is
given of the shrub by Nicolo De Conte, not only
of its appearance, but also of the manner in which
the bark was prepared in his day. During the
sway of native rulers, as well as that of the Dutch
and Portuguese, cinnamon was a government mo-
nopoly, and was so continued after the establish-
ment of British authority in the island, until the
year 1833, when it was abolished, and many large
cinnamon gardens, which had been previously
cultivated by government, were disposed of to
private individuals, and those that remained in
the hands of the crown were farmed to the
highest bidder.

The enormous sum of two shillings per pound
was levied upon all exported cinnamon until the
3'^ear 1842, when it was reduced one half. Still it

156 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

M'as found incompatible with the existence of the
export trade in this article to continue this re-
duced duty ; as from careful investigation it was
proved that cinnamon could not be cultivated,
prepared for market, and delivered in London,
paying a shilling per pound export duty, under
two shillings and four^^ence per pound ; which
was of course without allowing profit upon out-
hiy, or interest of any description. Accordingly,
in 1848, the whole tariff was considerably altered,
the export duty upon cinnamon was again re-
duced to fourpence per pound, with a duty of
threejjence per pound on importation into the
parent country ; and the government confidently
expect the trade in this spice, which has fallen
off more than one half, will be revived.

But this hope seems to us to be fallacious,
and we fear that this tardy legislation will not
enable Ceylon to compete with the East India
Company's possession on the coast of Malabar,
or with the Dutch settlement in Java, where the
shrub has rapidly increased in cultivation, since
the prohibitive export duty of two shillings was
imposed by Ceylon legislation on its own pro-
duce. We say this advisedly, pailicularly with
regard to Java, as the cost of the grower there
has been calculated at a considerably smaller

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 157

sum than that of his competitor in Ceylon, and
the former can import his cinnamon into this
country paying sixpence duty, which gives him
in duty alone, the advantage of one penny under
the latter, therefore something more remains to
be done by our legislators for the cinnamon pro-
prietors of Ceylon. The amount of export duty
received upon this article in 1844, was fifty three
tliousand one hundred and ninety-seven pounds ;
while, in 1846, it amounted to only twenty thou-
sand and eight3^-two pounds.

Coffee (Coffea arabica) we believe to be in-
digenous to the island, as we have questioned
an erudite priest and noble upon the subject, and
they both agreed in stating that a decoction from
the beny had been used by the natives from time
immemorial. Some authors state that coffee was
introduced into Ceylon, fi'om Java, by the Dutch,
who procured seedlings from Mocha, in 1723,
and that under the auspices of the Governor-
General of Batavia, Zwaardenkroom, the first
plantations were formed in Java.

When and wherefore coffee was introduced
and cultivated in other settlements, it is not our
purpose to investigate, as we treat solely of
Ceylon and its productions ; but we feel convinced
the coffee shrub has been known in the island in

158

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

a wild state for ages past. Coffee was first cul-
tivated in 1820, and has become an object of
great speculation amongst British residents, who
have expended large sums of money in clearing,
planting, and cultivating estates. Many indivi-
duals have been ruined by coffee plantations,
some few have succeeded in improving their
financial resources, who were sufficiently prudent
or fortunate to purchase land at a fair valuation,
and either had experience to guide them in the
personal superintendence of their properties, or
entrusted the management to those who were
worthy of their confidence. The quality of the
berry is considerably improved by cultivation ;
many like Ceylon coffee : for our own part, we
candidly confess we prefer Mocha, and we have
very rarely tasted coffee in Ceylon, which could
bear comparison with it.

The expense of clearing jungle, and forming
it into a coffee estate, have been calculated at
eight pounds per acre. The first step in this
clearance is both curious and imposing to wit-
ness ; the plantations being formed on the moun-
tain sides, the coolees are set to work on the
forest trees at the base of the hill, whose trunks
they notch half way through, thus labouring on
their way up to the mountain's summit, upon

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 159

attaining which the uppermost trees are com-
pletely felled, and these simultaneously falling
on those beneath, cany them, with a terrific crash
in their downward course. The falling mass,
like the avalanche, increasing at each step in
bulk and weight, acquires fresh impetus in its
progress, overpowering all obstacles, and thus
with the roar of thunder, thousands of noble forest
trees are laid low in a few seconds. The pros-
trated timber is usually fired and reduced to
ashes. The seedlings are generally planted out
in the rainy season, and require constant care
and attention to prevent them from being over-
grown with weeds, and jungle grass.

The appearance of a coffee estate in flower is
truly beautiful, the bushes being completely
covered with a mass of silvery white blossoms,
which are thrown out in strong and bold relief
by the glossy, deep-green coloured leaves. Then
in the advanced stage, when these blossoms are
changed into ripened berries of a deep red colour,
under whose weight the branches yield, the spec-
tacle is extremely pleasing, and must be wit-
nessed to be appreciated ; the reader must take
our word for it, that at these periods the sight is
one of immense beauty, while the general appear-
ance of the coffee estate is somewhat like an

160 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

extensive plantation of evergTeens, dotted here
and there, with enormous forest trees, purposely
left in clearing the jungle, for the protection of
the young plantation.

The coffee exported in 1846 amounted to one
hundred and seventy-three thousand eight hun-
dred and ninety-two ewt., which was increased in
1847 to two hundred and forty-five thousand cwt. ;
and, during the year 1849, forty millions of
pounds have passed over the roads to the coast.

We will not go through the mechanical prepa-
ration of the berry for the market, but glance at
the difficulties that to a greater or lesser extent
every planter must have to contend with. In the
first place, it is impossible to ascertain from the
soil if a plantation is certain to succeed or not,
as we have known contiguous coffee estates,
although the same attention has been bestowed
and plan pursued upon both, produce totally dif-
ferent crops, the one having thriven, the bushes
yielding an abundant harvest, whilst the other
has been a total failure, from the rats having
gnawed the roots of the plants, or the attacks of
insects having entirely ruined the young shoots,
or from some inexplicable cause. The coffee-
plant also speedily exhausts the productive qua-
lity of the soil, and, unless manured, the earth

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 10 1

loses the elements of fertility, finally becoming
incapable of producing even a scanty crop.

Labour likewise is extremely difficult to be pro-
cured at times, as the planter depends in a great
measure upon the labourers who arrive from the
coast, and possibly they may have amassed a suf-
ficient sum, and choose to return home either
when the crop is ready for gathering, or when the
beiTy is fit for peeling. Thus large quantities of
coffee are annually spoiled. Many capitalists
have suffered severely fi'om this cause, and those
especially whose superintendents maltreat the
coolees, either by beating them, or by mulcting
them of their scanty and hardly-earned wages.
We feel convinced that a more certain supply of
labour might be depended upon, were the unfor-
tunate coolees treated with the consideration due
to human beings — which we regret to say they
too fi'equently are not.

It is many years since the cultivation of the
sugar-cane was first commenced, but the planta-
tion at Caltura failed, owing principally to want
of experience on the part of the cultivator, in the
selection of a congenial soil. The estate of Mr.
Hudson, at Peradenia, however, having been more
judiciously formed, led to a successful result, and
was the cause of many planters following the in-

162 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

defatigable proprietor's spirited example. Several
sugar plantations are now actively and success-
fully managed, producing an article inferior to
none grown in the East, either in appearance or
for use, and at no distant period, we may fairly
conclude, that the sugar of Ceylon will be a most
important article in her export trade.

Cotton-cultivation is very much neglected in
the island, although there is every just ground to
believe, that it is capable of producing as fine a
quality as any which has ever been grown ; in-
deed the importance of this branch of produce
has not, as yet, arrested either the attention of the
local authorities, or of the agriculturist. In this
opinion we are fortified by an American planter
in the East India Company's service, who thus
reports, " I am of opinion, from what I saw of the
climate, temperature, and soil, that Ceylon will
produce cotton equal in quality, and when the
comparatively small ainount of capital required
is considered, T doubt not it may even produce
the article cheaper than ive can in America,
where a large sum must be laid out for labour^
and where the expense of food and clothing is
much greater than the cost of importing labour
into Ceylon, independently of the risk of a morta-
lity among the labourers after they had been pur-
chased."

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 163

The advocates of slave emancipation shovild be
amongst the first to encom'age the growth of
cotton in Ceylon, and produce an article which
can fairly compete with the slave-grown cotton of
America. A commencement has been made in
the neighbourhood of Batticaloa, where American
seed has been sown, and country cotton is grown
by some in conjunction with maize, or Indian
com. The quantity of cotton however which has
heretofore been grown is insufficient for the con-
sumption of the island.

The tobacco-plant has been for a considerable
period grown, and very extensively cultivated at
Jaffna, and its quality is held in high estimation
amongst the Malabars and Malays, so much so,
that some years ago the Rajah of Travancore
contracted for an annual su])ply of it. The
quantity of tobacco now exported from the island
amounts in value to some thirteen thousand pounds
per annum.

The Areka, or Betel-nut tree (x\reka-catechu)
flourishes in great abundance through the island.
It is a slight tall palm, with much smaller leaves
than those of the cocoa-nut, and more feathered
in their appearance : these are attached to the
tree by a tough impervious skin, which is
used by the natives to carry their provisions in.

164 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

The nuts hang in luxuriant branches, one tree
producing several hundreds, which are used by
Easterns with chunam, for the filthy purpose of
chewing. A large export trade is annually car-
ried on in this article, amounting to about the
value of thirty thousand pounds, which is likely
to be increased, since a dentifrice has lately
become much esteemed in this country, which is
prepared from the nut.

The ambuprasudana, or water-nut, is a most
valuable provision of nature, for purifying muddy
and unwholesome water; the natives use it for
this purpose by rubbing it over the internal sur-
face of their water chatties, wdiich has the pro-
perty of precipitating all impure and earthly par-
ticles, thus rendering the water pure and drink-
able.

The jack-tree (Artocarpus integrifalia) grows to
an enormous size, is a most beautiful object in
nature, affords most agreeable shade, and pro-
duces an immense quantity of fruit both from its
branches and trunk. The fruit are of a some-
what oval form, in size varying from half a foot to
five or six in cii'cumference ; their external cover-
ing is rough and of a greenish hue, and their sec-
tion of a whitish colour, containing a number of
kernels, enveloped in a yellowish coating, which

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 165

is of a most luscious flavour, but peculiarly dis-
agreeable to the olfactory nerves. The kernels
are the size of a pigeon's egg, and when cooked
make good food, and excellent curry. The
timber is of a yellow colour, but when polished
with bees-wax it approaches to a light-coloured
mahogany, and all ordinary furniture is manufac-
tured of it.

The bread -fruit- tree (Artrocarpus incisa) is also
one of large size, and abundantly productive. Of
this, there are two descriptions, the one bearing
fruit with seed and which is much larger than the
other, which has no seed. The greater and
lesser sort are both used in culinary preparations,
as well in the green, as in the matured state, the
natives making a curry of one, whilst Europeans
eat the fruit as a vegetable either boiled or fried.
The native who has a bread-tree, cocoa-nut-tree,
and jack-tree, has nearly all his wants provided
for, and it is to this bountiful provision of nature,
we may attribute the inactive disposition of the
people.

Indigo was formerly exported from Ceylon,
during Dutch rule ; notwithstanding, however,
that the plant is indigenous to the soil, which
with the climate oflers every inducement for its
cultivation, and that the greatest facilities for

166 CEYLON AND THK CINGALESE,

manufacture are at hand, still no step has yet
been taken since Great Britain has had the
island, to unfold this source of wealth. A proposi-
tion, we believe, was made to government in the
year 1817 to embark capital in this cultivation,
upon condition that the speculators should be
assisted with a grant of land, which, in the event
of the abandonment of the design, should revert
to government. This does not appear to have
been entertained, and it remains for some other
enterprising individual to set the example in
indigo, as Mr. Hudson did in the culture of the
sugar- cane.

The mulberry tree flourishes in the island, and
might easily' be propagated, for the nourishment
of the silk-worm ; had the natives a moiety of the
industry and perseverance of the Chinese, we see
no reason why silk of as fine a quality as any ex-
ported from the Celestial Empire, should not be
])roduced in Lanka- diva.

The most glorious vegetable production of the
island is the Tala, or Talapat palm, (Carypha
umbraculifera,) which varies in height from seventy
to one hundred feet. The circumference of the
trunk near the ground is about nine feet, and
gradually tapers to the summit, where the gigan-
tic leaves droop and spread out in a parachute

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 167

form ; it is a singular fact, that wherever a leaf
has sprung from the trunk of the tree, an in-
delihle mark is left after the leaf has fallen. The
natives affirm, that the tree never lives more than
one hundred years, and that it commences to
decay as soon as the blossom has arrived at per-
fection. The flower is large and of a most exqui-
site yellow; whilst in blossom this is enclosed in
a sheath, which bursts with a loud explosion as
soon as the flower has arrived at maturity. The
flowers remain in full bloom for nearly three
months, when they gradually disappear, and the
fruit, which is about the size of a plum, ripens.

The leaves of this magnificent tree frequently
measure, from the extremity of the stalk to the
tip of the leaf, twenty-five feet, and the width
varies from twelve to seventeen feet — these im-
perishable leaves, when dried, are applied by the
natives to various purposes ; from the form of the
leaf without preparation, it can be folded like a
fan, and this is borne before the chiefs and nobles
by their retainers. The leaves are also cut into
strips and used for olas and books, a thatch is
also made from them, which serves as a roofing
to dwellings. In the trunk is found a species of
pith, which when dried yields a fine meal ; the

168 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

natives make this into cakes, and the flour is
most delicate and delicious.

We regret that we are unable to give the reader
the name of a tree which grows in Ceylon, whose
leaves, owing to their roughness, are constantly
used by native cai-jienters instead of sand-paper ;
they have also the property of extracting stains
from fiuniture, and are known by the name of
" carpenter's leaves."

The mee-tree grows to an enormous size, and
the branches afford a welcome shelter to the
weary traveller from the noonday sun ; neverthe-
less, the effluvia of its blossom, which is a minute
white flower, is most unpleasant, and some affirm
especially unwholesome. So luxuriant are these
buds, that when they fall to. the gi'ound the earth
appears to be covered with snow for some dis-
tance around the parent tree, and the natives say,
that when the periodical heavy rains wash down
an accumulation of these^ pestiferous blossoms
into the tanks, and they are allowed to remain
floating on the waters, the exhalation invariably
])roduces disease. Notwithstanding this convic-
tion, nothing will induce them to fell a mee-tree,
because the fruit produces pungent oil, which
they apply to many purposes.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 109

The magnificent ebony-tree (Dyospiras ebo-
num) is most peculiar in its aspect, as the foliage
is almost black, the bark of the trunk nearly
white, and the branches sprout forth about thirty
feet from the root, giving the tree a mournfully
grand appearance. The Avood is usually jet
black, invariably extremely hard and weighty,
and is much sought aft'^'r both by Europeans and
the wealthy natives, for articles of decorative fur-
niture, and high prices are readily obtained for
fine specimens, that are elaborately carved. The
oldest and best trees, are generally found in the
forests of the eastern province. The Calamander
tree, (Dyospyrus hirsuta,) or variegated ebony, is
most majestic, and is also much prized. At one
time, this ti'ee was exceedingly common in the
forests ; but has become scarce, as it is more
esteemed for articles of furniture than ebony, fi'om
the beauty of the wood, which is striped or
mottled with black and shades of brown, is close
grained, will bear a high polish, and is worth a
large sum. The red sandal and satinwood trees
are natives of Ceylon, but these are now as rarely
met with as the Calamander tree, and for the same
reason.

The Kabook tree, a species of teiTninalia, attains
a large size, the timber being exceedingly dura-

VOL. I. I

170 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

ble, and of a brick-dust colour ; the peculiarity of
this tree consists in its flourishing, alike on the
banks of streams, in level districts, and also at
an elevation of two thousand three hundred feet,
and what is more remarkable still is, that the
natives believe, (and with apparent justice,) that
wherever this tree is found, water will be met
with near its lowermost roots, and those who
have caused the experiment to be made, invari-
ably declare that by digging close to the tree
water has been always discovered.

Were we to notice a tithe of the trees and
vegetable productions worthy of remark, that are
met with in this fertile spot, volumes would not
suffice ; therefore we shall but give a description
of one more, and that is the tree sacred to
Buddha, the bo-ti-ee, or Ficus religiosa. Under
this magnificent tree, Buddhists believe the god
to have slumbered, when he became the incarna-
tion of wisdom. The foliage is peculiarly luxuri-
ant and beautiful, the broad leaves being heart-
shaped; and so sacred were these considered, that
their semblance was only permitted to be carved
or painted upon the palace, or articles of furni-
ture intended for the sole use of the reigning
monarch. The blossoms are most lovely and
fragrant, being bell- shaped, the colour a milk-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 171

white, save in the centre of the flower, which is
delicately tinged with gold. These trees are
carefully guarded from injury, by terraces of earth
and stone, and some fi'om their huge cavernous
trunks appear to have braved the sun's beams,
and the lightning's flashes for centuries.

In the early morning, the perfume of the orange,
citron, wild jessamine, and other flowering
shrubs, is delicious beyond conception, and ex-
quisite as these floral beauties are at all times,
they are rendered still more so by the fragile
parasites, and pepper vines, that entwine aroinid
their trunks when met with in a wild state. It
is impossible to enumerate the luscious fruits of
the island, as every one, save the mangostein,
that grows in the torrid zone, is produced by the
prolific soil of Lanka-diva ; from the stately tama-
rind. Shaddock papaw mangol, and banana trees
down to the small delicate chillie, all alike spring
spontaneously from the teeming earth.

What especially demands the attention of the
European agriculturist is, that in the various
parts of the island, the peculiar productions of
Europe and Asia will alike thrive, if care is
bestowed upon the cultivation of the former ; so
that while the fragrant nutmeg and clove-tree,
with all tropical productions, attain the utmost

I 2

172 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

luxui'iance on one portion of the soil ; wheat,
barley, potatoes, turnips, and other European
vegetables, will yield renumerative crops, and
flourish upon another. And we believe that no
portion of the globe possesses the same capabili-
ties for cultivation as are to be found on this
island, whose internal resources are comparatively
undeveloped ; thus offering a fair opening for the
enterprising capitalist and industrious emigrant.

The expense of housekeeping in Ceylon is con-
siderable ; for, although the prices of provisions
are generally moderate, the multiplicity of arti-
cles required, and used, by the servants, com-
bined with the style of living, render the domestic
expenditure, fiequently, very great. Moreover, it is
impossible to keep such a check as to avoid
peculation, as the appoo, or head-servant, invari-
ably goes to the bazaar to purchase all articles of
daily consmnption ; thus it is absolutely impracti-
cable for the head of the household to ascertain
the con-ect price of food, as it not only depends
upon the supply and demand, but upon the honesty
or cupidity of the appoo.

This only applies to native produce, as all
European productions, comestibles, and every
other import are paid for monthly — and we can
conscientiously aver that either the importers,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 173

exporters, or consignees, ought to make rapid
and immense fortunes, as the price demanded is
often trebled, and frequently quadnipled, when
there is a scarcity. Thus, good butter will fre-
quently fetch two shillings and half-a-crown the
pound, cheese the same, ham, bacon, dried and
pickled tongues, preserves and pickles, being
sold in the same ratio.

The prices of all viands are now nearly the
same at Galle and Colombo, although before the
steamers touched at the former place, we have
been informed that edibles were materially
cheaper at the former place. Mutton, when it
can be piu'chased in the market, which is but
seldom, fetches an enormous price, being sold at
the rate of a rupee or two shillings per pound,*
but a good succulent haunch or joint of mutton
cannot be procured in the bazaar at any price.
Kids are sold, and used as a substitute for sheep,
and, when the creatures are young, and have been
well fed, a quarter of one roasted is not a despi-
cable dish ; the price per pound varies from six-
pence to sevenpence halfpenny.

* From this aiises Mutton Clubs, a certain number of gen-
tlemen, generally four, forming tlic club, pm-chase shoe]).
feed them, and divide the expeubc amongst them. But even
then the price is enormous.

174 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Beef is invariably tough, and lean, the best
parts being sold at sixpence per pound : pork is
the best animal food that can be procured in
Ceylon, and the value of good meat is the same
as beef Poultry is plentiful and moderate in
price, turkeys and geese selling from four
shillings and sixpence to seven shillings and
sixpence each ; ducks from three to four shillings
and sixpence the couple ; fowls from ninepence
to one shilling and sixpence each ; but we must
observe that although the price is low, the birds
are never fatted, and are generally sold before
they are full grown, therefore the expense of feed-
ing them materially adds to their original cost.

The fishes of Ceylon are numerous, and many
of their varieties are unsurpassed, if not unequalled
in delicacy of flavour and lusciousness, and the
prices of the best descriptions are tolerably rea-
sonable. The fish, par excellence, of the island is
the seir-fish, which is a species of scomber,
having much of the appeai'ance and flavour of the
finest salmon, which however it infinitely excels;
the flesh is of a delicate pink, but becomes colour-
less when subjected to any culinary process.
This delicious fish is caught with hook and line,
is solely found in salt water, and we have seen
some whose weight exceeded twenty pounds.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 175

The bull's-eye pomfret is likewise much esteemed,
and the beauty of this fish is indescribable, as
the head, body, and fins are of a brilliant red, the
scales being tinged with gold. Soles, whiting,
mackarel, and mullet are also plentiful, attain a
large size, are cheap and good, and the method
adopted by the natives to catch the last mei:-
tioned fish is somewhat singular.

The fishermen push off in their canoes after
sunset; and, when they have reached a favourable
spot, one man waves a torch over the water, and
the fish apparently fascinated, speedily rise to the
surface, and remain floating near the torch ;
another man immediately darts a pronged iron
instrument, (not unlike a large horse-comb,) at-
tached to a wooden handle, into the creature's
back, and hauls it into the canoe.

It would be impossible to enumerate the mem-
bers of the piscatory tribe that supply the table of
Europeans, or the means adopted by the natives
to ensnare them. Suffice it to say that for salt-
water fish, the hook, pronged instrument, and
nets are used, whilst for a particular fresh-water
fish, kraals are constructed of so intricate a
nature, that it is impossible for the fish to escape ;
in some places, conical baskets made from thin
slips of bamboo in which an aperture is left for

176 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the hand are used : this machine is cautiously
lowered over the fish, and the prize is seized hold
of by the fisherman.

So primitive are some of the means employed
to catch the smaller fry, by and for the poor, that
we have seen the men attach a grain of boiled
rice to a piece of cocoa-nut fibre, hang it over the
side of their canoe, and patiently catch, and de-
tach fish after fish, for hours; the market value of
which would not exceed three farthings. Crabs,
craw-fish, and prawns, are to be procured along
the entire coast, but oysters fit for food are only
to be met with in the river that flows through
Bentotte, and these the divers detach from the
rocks with mallets. The most remarkable cir-
cumstance connected with the latter edibles is,
that although the stream flows for a considerable
distance beyond, and has not its source at Ben-
totte, it is only at that place the oysters are found.

We cannot avoid expressing our conviction,
that the importance of the fisheries in Ceylon,
both in reference to the consumption of the island,
and as a great source of export trade, has not
attracted the attention it deserves. There is a
considerable demand for salt fish in the interior,
and the Roman Catholic population alone amounts
to nearly two hundred thousand, who generally

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 177

observe most strictly the fasts of the church. To
meet this demand, there is an import trade of salt
or preserved fish, amounting annually to the value
of some 0615,000. The waters which wash the
coast on every side swarm with the finest fish of
every description, and a number of boats are em-
ployed in fishing, particularly in the vicinity of
Colombo, during the prevalence of the south-w est
monsoon.

A very small quantity of fish, however, is pre-
served, and the mode of salting adopted by the
Cingalese is peculiarly defective. In a tropical
climate decomposition commences rapidly after
death ; it is obvious, therefore, that a fish should
be salted immediately it is caught, whereas the
natives rarely salt any except that portion which
they have not been fortunate enough to dispose
of, and the curing never takes place until after
exposure to the powerful rays of the sun on a
sandy beach. Sand and salt are thus mixed to-
gether, and the result can easily be imagined ;
namely, that such fish cannot be eaten by Euro-
peans, who, if they could succeed in eradicating
the sand, cannot cure the incipient putridity.

The most judicious method for salting that we
have heard of is that which has been suggested
by Mr. Bennett, namely, to adopt the practice

I 5

178 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

observed by the nutmeg-curers ; and construct,
beneath a thatched roof, tiers of open platforms,
composed of split bamboo, at distances and of
dimensions to correspond with the size of the
fish. Thus, any quantity might be cured by smoke,
proceeding from the ignition of damped paddy-
straw, placed beneath the lowest tier, which
would thus ascend to the roof, passing through
each tier in its progress. It has also been sug-
gested that, as the boats employed in fishing
have little room enough to carry their cargo, a
dhoney* should accompany a certain number of
them laden with salt, whose crew could be occu-
pied in salting the fish, as rapidly as possible
after it had been caught. It must be observed
that the extravagant price of salt has acted most
prejudicially upon the improvement of the fisheries.
The attention of the government appears to have
been directed to the importance of this branch of
industry during the Government of Sir Edward
Barnes, when an ordinance was passed imposing
a duty of fifteen per cent upon the prime cost
of all salt fish imported into the island, and per-
mitting the exportation, free of duty, of all fish
cured in the colony.

The vegetable productions indigenous to the
* Or native sailmg- vessel.

8

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 179

tropics are both abundant and cheap ; and, although
the mangols do not equal those of Bengal, nor the
pine-apples those of Singapore, nevertheless the
delicious fruits of Ceylon are, as a body, unrivalled
for their exquisite flavour and variety. Potatoes
are at times exceedingly scarce and dear, and we
have occasionally paid at Galle sevenpence half-
penny per pound for them, and never less at
Colombo than threepence. Some years ago, the
island was dependant upon Madras and Bombay
for the supply of these vegetables, but in 1823
the first potatoes were planted in Kandy, and
good crops are now annually procured, but still
this article of food remains dear and comparatively
scarce, as there has arisen a greater demand from
the influx of Europeans.

Servant's wages are not high, but the sum paid
monthly in most establishments is large in pro-
portion to the income ; as the number of domes-
tics, although not to equal the retinue kept up in
India, far exceeds a moderate household in
Europe. The appoo, or head servant, receives
from fifteen to twenty-five rix dollars * per
month, a good cook the same, the table-servant
from ten to twelve, the horsekeepers, and there is
one to each horse, receive the like sum, the coolee,
* A lix dollar is one sliiUing and sixpence.

180 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

or servant that sweeps the rooms, and performs
menial offices, six or seven, the cook's boy five,
the grass-cutter for each horse three rix dollars,
and the ayah, or native female attendant where
there is a lady or children, is remunerated accord-
ing to her knowledge of needlework, but never
receives less than the table-servant ; and, if she
understands her business thoroughly as ladies'-
raaid, or nurse, frequently as much as the appoo.

To these must be added the water-carrier, who
is paid according to the number of baths and
quantity of water required daily. It is not the
custom to provide the domestics with food; never-
theless few edibles ever make their appearance
a second time upon the table ; for, according to
your domestics' account, the rats, dogs, or heat,
purloin and spoil everything that disappears.
Unmarried men, if economically disposed, (but
few are in the East,) can make two or three ser-
vants suffice; but, although we have known many
families have a larger number of domestics than
we have enumerated, we cannot recall to our recol-
lection any that had a smaller establishment ; and
the whole household of men will not perform their
duties as efficiently as two women servants would
in England.

House-hire is comparatively low, as there are no

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 181

taxes, but in particularly healthy or fashionable
quarters, the rent demanded for a good dwelling,
will be found little lower than that which is paid
in England, and in some instances much higher.

The price of provisions at Kandy is one- third
more than at Galle, or Colombo, and at times
edibles of every description are exceedingly scarce,
and difficult to be procured upon any terms.
Servants"* wages and house-rent are also exceed-
ingly high. Those who reside or sojourn at
Newera EUia, are compelled to pay exorbitantly
for every article of food, and at times a residence,
or lodging, is not to be procured for money ; and,
when the whole or portion of a domicile is to be
obtained, the sum paid for temporary accommo-
dation, equals if not exceeds, the rent extorted by
the lodging-house keepers of a fashionable water-
ing place during the height of the season.

We have been informed by the descendants of
the Dutch and Portuguese that wages, house-rent,
the price of provisions and furniture, in every
part of the island, have become more than trebled
. since the English obtained possession of Ceylon ;
and they have pathetically bemoaned to us that
each year the value of everything increased :
strangely forgetting that, although individuals
might have to pay a higher sum than they for-

18-2 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

merly did, the diffusion of specie must benefit the
majority of the inhabitants, as lands become culti-
vated, and the market-price of the produce mate-
rially enhanced by augmented consumption

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE 183

CHAPTER VIII.

Natural histoiy—Elephants of Ceylon spoken of by Pliny
and Dionysius— Sagacity— Trained to be executioners by
the kings of Kandy — Ancient mode of valuing elephants
— Anecdote — Catching elephants with the atmaddoo —
Ornaments made from the coarse hau-s of the tail— King
of Kandy's personal inspection of captm-ed elephants-
Tyranny — Knox's account— Rogue-elephant — Elephant-
shooting — Major Rogers — His ninaculous escape — Sin-
gulai- death — Elephants ascend the mountains — Tusks
found buried in the jungles— Elks— Deer — Walmeenya —
Beauty and docility — Wild buffaloes — Bears— Cheetahs,
or leopards -Kandian mode of snaring them — Distinctive
peculiarity — Wild hogs— Animals found in jungle — Rats
— vShrew — Anecdote of a musk-rat— Ornithological speci-
mens— Land-leeches — Ticks — Snakes — Anaconda — Cobra
capello, or the sacred naga of the Cingalese — Warning —
Hair-breadth escape — Tic polonga— Legend— Ichneumon
attacking a cobra — Crocodiles — Hmitiug — Crocodile
chai-mers — Native method of catching and destroying
crocodiles — Fecundity — Number of eggs — Pugnacity of

184 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the young — Insect tribes — Wliite ants — Desti-uctive pro-
}teiisities — Tlieir nests.

In this chapter we do not pretend to classify
scientifically the mammalia, or ophidia, of Ceylon ;
we merely give sketches that we think interesting and
amusing to those who desire general information.

From historical records we find that Lanka-diva
has been celebrated for the tusks of its elephants
from a remote period; and both Pliny andDiony-
sius dilate largely upon the superior quality of
the ivory, which they represent as being whiter,
and of a less porous nature, than the tusks of
other animals of the same species.

In ancient times also, the monarchs of the pe-
ninsula eagerly sought for the Ceylon elephants,
on account of their superior docility and courage ;
and it is believed that the greater number of ele-
phants that were used in battle by Pyrrhus, as
well as during the whole of the Punic wars, were
obtained from Ceylon, by the Phoenicians, who
shipped them to the Persian Gulf, or the ports of
the Red Sea. Cingalese annals slate, that in the
palmy days of their island, the traffic in elephants
and spices, formed their principal exports, as all
the Eastern potentates, either when at war with
their neighbours or for purposes of stately show,
eagerly sought, and gave large sums for these
ponderous but sagacious creatures.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 185

Some authors have attempted to cast discredit
upon the natural intelligence of the elephant, but
from our personal observation we can conscien-
tiously say, that we believe them to be the most
sagacious of all quadrupeds, and most capable of
receiving man's instruction. Although we make
this statement, we do not mean to affirm that all
elephants exhibit extreme intelligence ; neither
do all men, nevertheless few would be sufficiently
fool-hardy enough to declare, that the characteristic
quality of manhood was stupidity, because some
few are especially obtuse. That elephants possess
the faculty of memory to an extraordinary extent,
has been evinced in numberless instances, and
that they also understand the meaning of lan-
guage has been distinctly proved, and we will
adduce the following in corroboration of our
assertion.

During the native dynasty it was the practice
to train elephants to put criminals to death by
trampling upon them, the creatures being taught
to prolong the agony of the w^retched sufferers by
crushing the limbs, avoiding the vital parts. With
the last tyrant-king of Kandy this was a favourite
mode of execution, and as one of the elephant-
executioners was at the former capital, during our
sojourn there, we were particularly anxious to test

186 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the creature's sagacity and memory. The animal
was mottled, and of enormous size, and was
quietly standing, with his keeper seated upon his
neck ; the noble who accompanied us desired the
man to dismount, and stand on one side.

The chief then gave the word of command,
ordering the creature to " slay the wretch !" The
elephant raised his trunk, and twined it, as if
around a human being, the creature then made
motions as if he were depositing the man on the
earth before him, then slowly raised his fore-foot,
placing it alternately upon the spots where the
limbs of the sufferer would have been. This he
continued to do for some minutes, then, as if satis-
fied the bones must be crushed, the elephant raised
his trunk high above his head and stood motion-
less; the chief then ordered him " to complete his
work," and the creature immediately placed one
foot, as if upon the man's abdomen, and the other
upon his head, apparently using his entire strength
to crush, and terminate the wretch's misery.

When we bear in mind the monarch was de-
throned in 1815, and the animal had never since
that period been called upon to perform the bar-
barous task to which he had been trained, few we
believe will be disposed to cavil, concerning the
extraordinary intelligence and memory evinced by

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 187

the creature. Space will not permit us to bring
forward other instances, to demonstrate our asser-
tion, but volumes might be written in proof of the
elephant's sagacity and memory, being second
only to those of man.

Cuvier, no mean authority, slates that a marked
difference is manifest in the formation of the Afri-
can and Asiatic elephant, and writes, " Elephas
capensis, fronte convexa, lamellis malarium rhom-
boidalibus. Elephas Indicus, fronte plano-con-
cava, lamellis malarium arcuatis undatis."

The height of a full-grown Ceylon elephant
varies from eight and a half to ten feet, and their
colour is also diversified, as some of the tuskers
have a portion of their head and ears of a speckled
flesh colour, others are mottled all over their
bodies, whilst many are of the usual elephantioe
hue. White elephants have been occasionally
but rarely found in the island, and the natives
affirm this breed is not indigenous, but was intro-
duced from Siam.

Although all tusk-elephants are males, not more
than three or four in a hundred have these valu-
able protuberances ; the remainder being provided
with short tusks like the females, which project
eight or ten inches beyond the mouth, and in-
variably incline downwards. The tusks vary in

188 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

length from three to seven feet, and their weight
ranges between thirty to one hundred and twenty
pounds, but sixty-five or seventy are the average
weight of those appertaining to a full-grown
animal.

Formerly the traffic in elephants was princi-
pally carried on by the Moormen, and, as their
mode of valuing the creature was singular, we
subjoin a statement. They measured from the
extremity of the fore-foot to the top of the shoul-
der, and for every cubit they demanded one thou-
sand rupees, and readily obtained that sum for
the Ceylon elephants. Numberless extraordinary
anecdotes are extant connected with the acknow-
ledged superiority of the island elephants, even
by those of their own species ; and, although we
will not vouch for the accuracy of the statement,
as we have never seen an African and Ceylon
elephant in juxta-position, we give the following
anecdote from Tavernier, who writes, " One I will
tell you hardly to be believed, which is, that when
any other king or rajah has one of these elephants
of Ceylon, if they bring any other breed before
them, in any other place whatever, so soon as the
other elephants behold the Ceylon elephants, by
an instinct of nature, they do them reverence, by
laying their trunks upon the ground, and raising
them up again."

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 189

In their native jungle, tlie elephant is tormented
by a large species of mosquiio, or fly, and an in-
sect called the tick, which pierces the hide, causing
excessive pain ; and, to baffle these tiny but in-
exorable enemies, the huge creature rolls itself on
the earth, and, when a wild elephant emerges from
the jungle, the skin is of a dingy brick-dust colour,
from the sand and particles of red earth that cover
the hide.

The elephants are now only found in the thickl}'-
wooded forests of the interior, although under the
Dutch, and during the rule of the first English
governor, the Honourable Frederick North (since
Lord Guildford), the great elephant-hunts used to
take place in the maritime province, and at times
one or two thousand men would be employed for
many weeks in snaring elephants, or driving them
into kraals.

As the mode of snaring and hunting elephants
is generally the same and has been often described,
we will only allude to one of the former, that we
believe to be peculiar to the island, and which is
called ATMADDOO, or hand-snaring. The ropes
are made either from buffaloes' or bullocks' hide,
and have a running noose at one end ; the hunters
lie in wait in a jungle where they find recent
tracks of the elephants ; concealed in the trees,

190 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

they readily perceive the approach of the animal,
and allowing it to pass their ambush, stealthily
creep in the rear, getting close to the creature,
and awaiting the favourable moment slip the
noose under a hind-foot, another hunter twining
the opposite end of the rope around the trunk of
a tree. The elephant in attempting to pursue the
route is checked and tripped up, finally stumbling ;
the other hunters immediately rush forward with
additional ropes, and secure the legs by twisting
cords from one to the other in a figure of eight ;
the elephant is then securely fastened to the
neighbouring trees, and a shed erected to protect
the animal until sufficiently tamed to be removed
with safety.

Under the native dynasty, the successful ele-
phant-hunters were highly rewarded by the mo-
narch, and were allowed to pluck out the long
coarse hairs that are occasionally found at the
extremity of the tail. These are highly valued
by the Kandian women, who weave them into
bangles and anklets. The Kandian kings only
retained the tuskers and speckled elephants, the
others being set at liberty. Sometimes, to please
the potentate, the herd would be driven into the
city and captured in his presence, and Knox, who
was a prisoner in Kandy for twenty-one years,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 191

says, " If the elephants caught did not please the
kmg he ordered their liberation, but if they did,
he selected some spot near the city, and there
they were kept until he ordered them to be se-
cured. This might not take place for two or
three years, during which interval headsmen and
watchers were set over them, and if the beasts did
chance to stray beyond the royal bounds, the
headsmen summoned their followers to bring them
back again immediately, for, were one only lost,
they were apprehensive of the king's displeasure,
which was little short of death."

It is well known these animals are usually
found in herds, and when a solitary elephant is
seen, the Cingalese say that it is a rogue-elephant,
" liora alia^'' who has been expelled for nefarious
and turbulent conduct by the other members of
the herd. It is strange, that whenever a solitary
elephant is found or heard of, the creature is in-
variably viciously mischievous, destroying crops,
and taking human life, apparently in wantonness
and without provocation, and a rogue-elephant
in former days used frequently to lie in wait near
a road, rush upon the unwary travellers, trample
them to death, then quietly return to the jungle.
Such an occurrence took place a comparatively
short time ago.

192 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

In certain parts of the interior, the natives
suffer materially at times from the destructive
depredations of herds of elephants; and occa-
sionally, paddy-fields, and topes of cocoa-nut
trees, will be completely devastated in the course
of the night. Elephants have a strong partiality
for the leaves of the cocoa-nut ; and, when they
cannot reach them with their trunks, they throw
their whole weight against the tree, and, by con-
tinued pressure, succeed in laying low the stately
palm.

The sense of smell and hearing, in these ani-
mals is extremely acute, but a strong light, or the
vivid glare of the sun, is evidently obnoxious to
their eyes ; and, for this reason, an experienced
elephant-shooter will invariably endeavour to
place himself in such a position as to allow, if
possible, the beams to fall upon the elephant's
forehead, as it is near the eyes, at the top of the
skull, the vulnerable spot is to be found. Balls
will inflict no serious injury, unless the brain
of the animal is perforated ; when this is the case,
in the time of a passing thought, the ponderous
creature lies prostrate and motionless at the feet
of the comparative, pigmy destroyer.

As elephant-hunters cannot conveniently bag
their game, it is customary to cut off their tail,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 193

and bear it away as a trophy, and some amusing
anecdotes are current in Ceylon connected with
new arrivals and young sportsmen, who have
commenced docking a live, instead of a dead
elephant, the creature having been merely stunned
by the shot; and the pain of the incision acting
as a counter-irritant, causing the animal to regain
its scattered senses and feet, the animal shuffling
off in one direction, and the inexperienced hunter
running swiftly in the opposite, bawling loudly
for assistance.

The most celebrated elephant-hunter in Ceylon
was Major Rogers, and it has been stated to us
by those who knew this adventurous man well,
that he had slain more than fourteen hundred
elephants. His hair-breadth escapes were mira-
culous, and among the many we will cite but one,
which, although it savours of the wonderful, is
strictly correct.

The Major had shot at an elephant, but the
ball glanced off, merely inflicting a flesh-wound ;
the creature, infuriated with pain, raised its trunk,
uttering the terrific trumpet-like squeal, which
they always make preparatory to a charge. The
elephant seized Rogers with the proboscis, and
carried him a short distance, then dashed him on
the ground, into a deep hole, and trampled upon

VOL. I. K ^

194 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

him, breaking his right arm intow places, and
several of his ribs; and it was only the small size
of the hole into which he had been thrown that
saved his life, as the elephant had not sufficient
room to use his full strength. When his brother
sportsmen came up to the Major, they found him
lying senseless, and, so soon as he recovered his
speech he stated, that he was perfectly conscious
when the elephant both seized and trampled upon
him, but that he knew attempting to escape, or
struggling was worse than futile, and that he
was entirely passive upon principle, as he had
often reflected upon such an event occurring, and
had resolved to remain perfectly motionless. We
believe no greater mastery of mind over matter, or
resolution, was ever recorded ihan this.

The death of this courageous man was as
melancholy as extraordinary : he was travelling
in the interior with a gentleman and his wife, on
the 7th of June 1846, and the party were taking
refreshment at a Rest-house, preparatory to pur-
suing their journey. A violent thunder storm
came on which detained the travellers for some
time ; it had abated, the sun was again shining
and preparations were making to resume their
tour, when the Major stepped into the verandah,
saying that he thought the rain had entirely sub-
sided, and it was time to set out.

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 195

Suddenly, a vivid flash of lightning was seen,
a loud crash of thunder heard ; his companions
called to him, saying they had better wait awhile
longer ; not receiving a reply, the gentleman went
out, and there lay poor Rogers a lifeless corpse,
who but a few moments previously, was full of
life and merriment. Thus died one whilst under
shelter and apparently out of danger, who had
often braved the heat of the battle, the fury of
the elephant, and who had never shrunk from a
hazardous undertaking.

We cannot conclude our observations upon ele-
phants, without remarking upon their capability
of enduring extreme atmospheric changes, for, in
Cej'lon, the tracks of these animals are found
alike in the valleys of the interior, and on the
elevated thickly-wooded mountains, and many of
these elevations exceed six thousand feet, above
the ocean's level, the thermometer varying in the
valleys, and on the mountains forty-five degrees.
These clumsy animals appear also to delight in
climbing steep hills, and slippery rocks, and oft-
times their mutilated bodies are found in preci-
pices and abysses below.

Frequently tusks of a large size are discovered
in the jungles, but whether they have been buried
by the natives, and forgotten, or have been forced

K 2

196 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

into the earth by the animals, none can tell;
though it is asserted that elephants in flight will
fall upon their tusks, their own impetus and
weight snapping them off close to the sockets.
But, even presuming the latter statement to be
correct, it is a problem to us how the tusks can
be found beyond their own depth, unless in the
course of lime the soil has accumulated over
them.

In the central province elks abound and afford
good sport; these animals approximate closely to
the red deer of Scotland, and at a distance might
readily be mistaken for them. When they are
full-grown their height varies from four to five
feet and a half, their colour a dark reddish brown,
vvliich gradually shades into black upon the neck
and hinder part. There are several species of
deer indigenous to the island, that are remarkable
lor their elegant forms and beautiful coats, and
among them Albinoes are occasionally seen, with
llie red eyes peculiar to the colour, and these
animals are highly prized by the Kandians.

We shall only describe the smallest of the deer
tribe called by some naturalists the musk-deer,
the Linuffian name of which is Moschus meminna,
the Cingalese Walmeenya. These diminutive
creatures, perfect in their proportions, are the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 197

most exquisitely lovely of all qnadrupeds ; the
beauty of their delicate limbs, lustrous eyes,
spotted skins, and graceful forms baffling all de-
scription. We had a full-grown male, whose
height did not exceed ten inches, and length
fourteen ; the throat, neck, and stomach, were milk
white; the remainder of the body was grey, regu-
larly striped with black, over which were equi-dis-
tant yellow spots. The head gradually tapered to
the snout, whilst from either side of the mouth
protruded a small but perfectly-shaped tusk; the
eyes and ears large and open, the tail short, and
the weight of the Lilliputian was under five
pounds.

It was curious to observe how kindness con-
quered the animal's natural timidity ; when we
first had him, if an attempt was made to handle
or lift him, he immediately snorted and resisted,
kicking violently, and small as he was, he could
inflict strong kicks with his slender pointed hind-
hoofs. Gradually fear subsided, and, as he be-
came domesticated, he was placed upon the table
after dinner, and allowed to nibble first one fruit
and then another from the dishes; at last, he
would boldly walk about, and, when called by
name, would fearlessly approach and take food
from the hand, allowing caresses to be bestowed

198 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

upon him. His terror of the dogs also diminished
by degrees ; at first, when they barked he would
crouch down instantaneously, (as this species do
in a wild state, among the grass for concealment,
as soon as they hear a noise,) and remain motion-
less, panting with alarm, exhibiting other symp-
toms of fear, with dilated eyes. At length, he
would become calm, finding no injury inflicted,
and before we left the island would allow a small
terrier to stand close to, and sniff his coat, and,
if the larger dogs barked when he was out of his
cage, would gaze inquiringly towards the spot
where the noise proceeded from, without exhi-
biting the slightest uneasiness.

With some difficulty, we obtained a female of
the same breed, as these animals are rarely taken
alive, and succeeded in bringing both to England,
but unfortunately our changeable climate did not
agree with them, and first our tame petted favourite
and then the female sickened, and eventually each
died of inflammation of the lungs.

The wild buffalo of Ceylon is a variety of the
Malabar, but much larger and fiercer, and abounds
in many of the thinly inhabited districts. Hunt-
ing these animals is considered perilous, (although
adventurous spirits pursue the pastime) for, should
the ball not take effect near the shoulder, the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 199

brute invariably charges, in a curved line, in-
clining sideways, and presenting one horn with
unerring accuracy, which too frequently enters
the body of the sportsman. Their indomitable
courage and tenacity of life, are only equalled by
the spirit of revenge evinced when they are at-
tacked. This animal is called gaura by the
natives, and formerly this breed overran many
localities, that still bear the creature's name.

The bears of the island, though small, are re-
markably fierce, and will attack man even when
unmolested. These animals are much dreaded by
the natives as their powerful fore-legs, sharp
claws, and fangs, usually inflict mortal injuries,
or so disfigure the person as to leave few pleasing
marks of humanity.

The leopard, or cheetah, has a most beautiful
coat, and occasionally attains the length of seven
and a half feet, and, although extremely destructive
to cattle, dogs, and all domesticated creatures,
never attacks human beings, unless in self-defence.
The Ceylon leopard has distinctive peculiarities,
the principal one being, its incapacity to draw
back the claws within the sheath.

Cheetahs abound in the Kandian districts, and
the natives wage a perpetual war of destruction
against them, on account of their partiality for

200 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

their cattle and poultry. They shoot them, with
cross bows, furnished with large bladed arrows,
and spring guns ; they dig pitfalls over which is
suspended a newly-killed animal, and make en-
closures, with a dropping gate, under which is
laid some tempting morsel ; in short, no scheme
of extermination is left untried, and our only
astonishment is, that the whole race has not been
extirpated centuries ago.

The wild hog is found in most of the wooded
districts, is both ferocious and powerful, and will
readily turn to attack man, or beast. The full-
grown males are larger than the Westphalia boar,
the colour of their hides being a dark brown or
black, which shades into grey on the shoulders
and throat. Hunting these creatures is a favourite
sport, and the flesh of a young hog is well-fla-
voured and succulent, resembling newly-killed
venison.

In the jungles are also to be found jackalls,
hares, the ichneumon or mongoose, a peculiar
species of weazel, many descriptions of monkeys,
some of them rare and curious ; sloths, squirrels of
every variety, and the hideous creature called the
flying-fox, porcupines, (which seriously damage
plantations of cocoa-nut trees, as their favourite
food is the centre of the root,) and other animals

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 201

that our prescribed limits preclude noticing. But
in no part of Ceylon are lions, tigers, or wolves,
to be seen.

Amongst the greatest domestic pests in Ceylon,
are the innumerable legions of rats that abound in
every part of the island and infest every dwelling,
and the audacious boldness of these destructive
vermin will hardly be credited. We have fre-
quently seen the creatures perched upon the back
of a chair, or top of a screen, and not offer to move
until something was thrown at them ; and we will
give an account of a rat's presence of mind, that
will equal that exhibited by Rogers when he was
seized by the elephant.

Hearing a great commotion and barking among
our dogs, we went into the verandah to ascertain
the cause, and found they were disputing about
the possession of a recently-caught animal, which
our nostrils soon informed us was a shrew, or
musk-rat; we made the dogs relinquish their
prize, pro tem., as we were desirous to examine
the vermin, promising them that as soon as our
survey was completed, the rat should be returned.
We took up the creature by the tail, (the dogs
leaping and barking around us,) carried it into the
dining-room, and held it close to the lamp, to
observe its distinctive peculiarities.

K 5

202 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

The creature was without motion ; not a muscle
moved, and the limbs hung loose as if life had
totally quitted the carcase. This examination
lasted fully five minutes, and, when our curiosity
was satisfied, we threw the rat to the dogs, (which
closely surrounded our legs and the table, yelping
with the excitement of expectation,) expecting to
see it torn to pieces, when to our amazement the
brute not only took to its legs with all imaginable
celerity, and ran off, but got clear away, baffling
every effort of the dogs to retake it. Assuredly,
all must admit that the rat not only " stole away,"
but also stole a cunning march upon us.

The musk-rat will occasionally measure twelve
inches from the snout to the tail ; the head is
slender, the upper jaw^ projecting considerably be-
yond the lower, the whiskers bushy, long and
white, the colour of the coat grey, but the feet are
totally devoid of hair, and the tail is thick at the
root. The effluvia of this creature is most power-
ful ; and, if it runs over any edible, the article
becomes so impregnated with llie peculiar smell
as to be totally unfit for use.

The ornithological specimens of Ceylon are as
numerous as beautiful, and no study can be con-
ceived that offers a wider field for investigation.
From the gorgeous feathers of the wild peacock

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 203

to the diversified plumage of the Cingalese star-
ling, from the rhinoceros bird to the jungle-crow
and blue rock-pigeon, aJl being met with on the
island, and all furnishing alike subjects of profit-
able thought and observation ; we believe Ceylon
to be only second to Australia for the number
and beauty of, indigenous birds.

In some parts of the island red-legged partridges,
quails, and snipes abound, but the sportsman has
to contend with two serious drawbacks, let the
game he seeks be an elephant, or buffalo, a par-
tridge, or snipe, as every jungle and morass
abounds with land-leeches, and an exceedingly
disgusting insect called the tick. The land-leech
is found wherever there is long grass, and its
slender form when ungorged not being thicker
then a very fine needle, enables it to penetrate
through the clothing. Some sportsmen wear
what are called leech-gaiters, others boots, but we
never yet knew, or heard of any one, being able
to exclude these blood-thirsty creatures.

The dimensions of the land-leech are about an
inch in length, and one-tenth in diameter, their
colour a dark green approaching to black ; but
when gorged they are quite two inches long, and
three quarters of an inch in circumference. They
draw a considerable quantity of blood, their bites

7

204 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

causing great irritation ; and, if the- places are
scratched, eventually inflammation. As their mo-
tions are peculiarly agile, they are most difficult to
kill, or to remove ; for, when you have succeeded
in taking them off" your legs, they ahuost instanta-
neously fasten upon your hands, before you have
time to destroy them. It is dangerous to pluck
them oft" quickly, as that increases the irritation of
the wound, bul, if ihey are touched with brandy,
they immediately drop off.

Lime-juice, and other acid applications, will
alleviate the itching and staunch the bleeding, and
those who are of good habit of body and abstemi-
ous, only suffer temporary inconvenience from
iheir bites, whilst others who live freely, and
whose constitutions are debilitated, often find the
wounds fester, and ultimately ulcerate. Many
animals suffer severely from the land-leech, and
sheep will not thrive upon any pasture where they
are to be found. During the dry season, these
noxious creatures multiply to an almost incredible
extent, and especially abound upon all wooded
hills.

As leeches abound in the grass, so do the ticks
upon the trees, where they lie upon the leaves in
myriads, and, if the branch is shaken by the wind
or touched by the sportsman, they fall upon his

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 205

person and drive him neariy insane ; as their sting
resembles the prick of a red-hot needle, and the
skin is no sooner pvmctured than intolerable itch-
ing supervenes. These filthy insects are about
the size of a very large pin's head, of an oblong
form, and flat, and of a mulberry colour ; but, when
they are distended with their sanguinary meal, we
can positively declare that we have seen many
that were quite a quarter of an inch wide.

The legs of ticks seem to be provided with
small hooks, as they cling to the skin with most
obnoxious tenacity, defying every effort to remove
them, without pulling the body from the limbs ;
these insects are as troublesome to animals as they
are to man, and without extreme caution will
cluster round the fleshy part of a dog's foot and
between the toes, eating into the flesh, inflicting
agonizing torture upon the poor brute which, mad-
dened by the pain, vainly essays to pull them out
with the teeth. We found that ticks Would more
readily fasten upon an European than upon the
country-born dog, and we shall not readily forget
the manner in wliich our terriers used to be bitten
by them, despite the daily ablutions and care
taken to free the dogs from these ruthless tor-
mentors.

Snakes, venomous reptiles, and insects, aboiuid

'206 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

in Ceylon, and it is surprising that so few deaths
occur annually from their bites. We shall neither
attempt to enumerate, nor classify the Ophidia,
merely mentioning what we think most likely to
interest the general reader.

The largest of the serpent tribe in Ceylon is the
anaconda, (belonging to the genus Python,) and
is far from being uncommon in the island ; a full-
grown snake will measure from seventeen to
twenty feet, and we have heard it asserted that
one twenty-five feet long, and whose body was two
and a half in circumference, was killed by our
informant. This reptile is handsomely marked
in regular patches of a dark rich brown and yellow ;
the teeth are large and sharp, and the muscular
povver of the jaws is very great. The creature
has two homy excrescences, or spurs, near the tail,
and these enable the reptile to cling with greater
security to the branches of the trees, from which
it will swing, ready to seize upon and entwine
around any animal that may come within its reach.
They encircle their victims in the same manner as
the boa-constrictor, crushing every bone, and
lubricating the carcase with saliva before swallow-
ing it ; and, although they have been known to
seize upon a deer, or young buffalo, their usual
prey is believed to bejackalls. The Cingalese do

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 207

not particularly dread this snake, as it rarely
attacks man.

The cobra-capello, or hooded snake, is called
naga by the natives, and is considered sacred,
as on the western coast before the arrival of
Goutama Buddha, it is believed the people wor-
shipped this snake. The reverence with which
this reptile is regarded, although its venomous
nature is well known, prevents many of the na-
tives destroying it; and the most ingenious
reasons are assigned by them to Europeans, to ex-
tenuate or account for the deadly bite too often
inflicted by the cobra, or naga.

In Kandy, when a cobra is caught, instead of
slaying the noxious vermin, and thus preventing
farther mischief accruing, the people wishing to
be rid of it, will secure it, and convey it during
the night to some distant village, or jungle.
Those who fear and desire the destruction of
the naga, but whose superstition causes them
to hesitate before they take life, make a com-
promise with their conscience, by enclosing the
snake in a mat-bag, with some boiled rice for
food, and place the receptacle, inmate, and
food in a flowing stream, where the snake is
certain to meet death either by drowning, or
from the hands of some less scrupulous devotee.

•208 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Therefore, we warn our readers, if, in the course of
their peregrinations, they should wnnder through
the Cinnamon Isle, and see floating upon a river's
sparkling surface a mat-bag, the mouth of which
is tied with especial care, not to open the same
without due caution, or they may be greeted with
a loud hiss, and be severely punished for indulg-
ing in the ao-caWed /e?nmi?ie propetisiti/ of curi-
osity.

This reptile, when full grown, is often found
from six to seven feet in length, and varies in
colour, those of a light hue being called by the
natives, high-caste, and those of a dark, low-caste
snakes, The bite of this reptile is poisonous and
generally deadly, but if seen by a human being
there is time to flee from the impending danger ;
as the creature is compelled to twine the lower
extremity, and erect itself upon the coil, before it
can dart. The aspect of this creature with its
inflated head, just before it makes its unerring-
deadly spring, is said to be most terrific ; and the
following occurrence is indelibly imprinted upon
our memory.

A legal friend was going on circuit to Jaffna,
and to relieve the tedium of the journey had
quitted his palanqueen and taken his gun, re-
solving to walk in the shade, looking for game.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 209

and soon bemoaned his fate at not meeting with
sport. He observed for some distance the tracks
and footmarks of elephants, but neither bird nor
beast presented itself; the footfalls became deeper,
thicker, and fresher as he penetrated farther into
the jungle, bearing evidence that a numerous herd
had but recently passed through.

Our friend picked his way carefully between
these tracks, and, as he stepped over a very deep
hole, he thought he saw a dark glistening sub-
stance filling it up : he proceeded a few yards,
then turned round intending to retrace his steps
and satisfy himself what the shining object was,
when, to his dismay, he saw a cobra with inflated
head, rising from the hole over which he had just
before stepped ; he instantly levelled his gun and
shot the venomous brute before it had time to coil
and erect itself.

The tic-polonga, although somewhat smaller, is
more to be dreaded than the cobra, as the bite is
almost instantaneously fatal, and the terrible rep-
tile darts forward without the slightest warning,
or giving the victim a moment's notice, — in short,
it is the most dangerous and vicious snake in the
island, despite the assertion of a recent author to
the contrary, who has never been in Ceylon.
This snake is peculiarly active and spiteful.

210 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

attacking alike bipeds and quadrupeds, and the
effects of its venomous fangs are the same upon
all, the muscular powers becoming paralyzed, and
the sanguineous fluid speedily coagulating ; and
we never heard but of two men who recovered
after being stung.

The tic-polonga is frequently three or four feet
long, and the body is thick in proportion to the
length ; the head is triangular, and the colour a
dark grey, almost appi'oaching to lead. The Cin
galese abhor this snake as much as they venerate
the cobra-capello, and the following legend con-
nected with these two reptiles illustrates the dif-
ferent sentiments entertained by them. —

" In the isle of Serendib there is a happy
valley, that men call the vale of Kotmale. It
is watered by numerous streams, and its fields
produce rice in abundance ; but at one season
great drought prevails, and the mountain torrents
then cease their constant roar, and subside into
rivulets, or altogether disappear. At this period
when the rays of the noontide sun beat fiercely
and hotly on the parched earth, a tic-polonga
encountered a cobra-capello. The polonga had
in vain sought to quench his burning thirst, and
gazed with envy on the cobra, who had been
more successful in his search for the pure beve-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 211

rage. ' Oh ! puissant cobra, I perish with thirst ;
tell me where T may find the stream wherein thou
hast revelled.' * Accursed polonga,' replied the
cobra, 'thou cumberest the earth, wherefore
should I add to the span of thy vile existence.
Lo, near to this flows a mountain-rill, but an
only child is disporting herself therein, while
her mother watches the offspring of her heart.
Wilt thou then swear not to injure the infant,
if I impart to thee where thou mayest cool thy
parched tongue.' ' I swear by all the gods of
Serendib,' rejoined the polonga, * that I will not
harm the infant.' ' Thou seest yonder hamlet ;
in front of it gushes forth a spring of water,
that abates not during the intensity of the summer-
heat.' The polonga wended his way to the
spot, and there beheld a dark-eyed girl bathing
in the rushing waters. Having quaffed the
delicious liquid, he repented him of his oath
touching the infant. His evil soul prompted
him to kill her, and, as she lay beneath the
shade of a leafy tamarind-tree, he approached
and inflicted a mortal wound. As he retired
from his dying victim, he again met the cobra,
who seeing blood on his fangs, and perceiving
the cause, thus addressed him. ' Hast thou
forgotten the sacred oath thou swearest unto

212 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

me ? The blood of thy victim cries for ven-
geance. Thou shalt surely die.' And, darting
his fangs into the body of the polonga, he slew
him instantly."

There are many other venomous snakes, rep-
tiles, and insects indigenous to the island, which
we cannot notice ; and, when the Kandians catch
and till any of these, they invariably suspend
their lifeless bodies to the trees, we presume as
a warning to their fellows. The only exception
to this rule being the sacred naga, who, even
if exterminated, is never subjected to so great
an indignity.

The beautiful little creature, the ichneumon,
is the declared foe to this snake, and is invariably
the assailant : the animal springs upon the back
of the snake and seixes the nape of the neck, and
never uncloses its teeth until the snake is life-
less.

Those who have witnessed the battle say that
the cobra always tries to escape, and that before
commencing the fight the ichneumon runs to a
particular plant and eats a portion, and this serves
as an antidote to the reptile's poison. We are
rather incredulous upon this latter point, but are
quite certain that the ichneumon will assail the
snake in the open air, and as scrupulously avoid

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 213

doing so if in an enclosed space. We cannot
say either if the antipathy of the ichneumon
extends to other serpents, as all the encounters
we have heard of took place with the cobra-ca-
pello.

The crocodiles of Ceylon grow to a great size,
some of the full-grown males measuring twenty
feet; but their average length is fifteen. The
species found in the island differ materially in the
formation of the head from the crocodiles of the
Ganges, but they are equally ferocious, never
leaving go of their prey, seizing alike men and
animals ; and a native told us he knew a man who
was dragged out of his canoe and devoured by-
one of these monsters. In the tanks and streams
of Putlam these reptiles swarm, being also found
in small sheets of water that are met with in the
flat and scantily-populated districts, and occa-
sionally in a season of long-continued drought,
crocodiles will be seen in the jungles, making
their way from the dried-up tanks to the rivers.
Europeans hunt these creatures, and consider it
good sport, and the lives of many valuable dogs
have often been sacrificed, as the crocodiles fre-
quently seize the animals and drag them under
the water. The only way to avoid this disaster is
to ride close to the dogs, and fire as they approach
the water.

1

214 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Another method of destroying the crocodiles is ■

the following, which, although efficacious, savours
too much of slaughter in our estimation to be
called sporting. Hooks, baited with flesh, are
attached to about twenty thin, but strong strings,
a piece of wood being fastened to the opposite
extremity of the lines, to which a strong cord is
attached. This apparatus is cast into the water
by attendants, the float indicating when the bait
has been seized ; the men then pull the cord, and
the numerous strings having become entangled in
the wide-set teeth of the crocodile, the head is
soon drawn above the water, and the sportsman
aims a shot between the head and neck to break
the spine ; the creature is then hauled on shore
and despatched with spears, or guns. We have
heard of some men killing in this manner many
dozens in the course of the year, but we again
repeat, it is too like butchery to suit our taste.

In the districts infested with crocodiles, men
calling themselves crocodile-charmers abound,
and, as these cunning fellows know the habits and
haunts of the reptiles, they generally succeed in
conveying a party safely through, or across a
stream. Crocodiles, although ferocious, are slug-
gish and cowardly if attacked, and the natives of
Putlam will go in a large body into the water.

CFALON AND THE CINGALESE. 215

and drag them on shore with strong nets. Those
who drag the net keep their legs in constant mo-
tion, whilst others shout and strike upon the
water with long poles ; this disturbance appears
to terrify and confound the crocodiles, who com-
paratively struggle but little when entangled in
the net.

Men, armed with spears and fire-arms, remain
on the banks of the tank, or stream, and so soon
as the reptiles are drawn into shallow water they
are speedily despatched. The natives in using
the spear try to wound the reptile under the fore
leg, as that is the most vulnerable part of the
creature. And they prefer this mode to wasting
powder and ball, as from the hard and irregular
surface of the crocodile's skin, it is difficult for
any, save a good marksman, to mortally wound
the reptile.

The fecundity of the crocodile is proverbial, as
the female lays from seventy to eighty eggs, which
are larger than a goose's ; these are deposited in
the sand, being hatched by the heat of the sun,
and numbers of the eggs fortunately never arrive
at maturity. Those who have broken the mature
eggs, and liberated the young crocodiles, state
that they utter a sharp bark immediately on
leaving the shell, and will snap and bite a stick,
or any other weapon held near them.

216 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

It is impracticable to particularize many of the
insect tribe, although Ceylou is as rich in these
as she is in her ornithological and vegetable king-
dom, and the brilliance and beauty of the fire-flies
and beetles are proverbial, whilst the white ants
are equally celebrated for their destructive pro-
pensities.

This small insect is dreaded both by Europeans
and natives, as it will undermine houses, destroy
furniture, devour clothing, and render provisions
useless. And what is most extraordinary is, that
the insect will eat away the interior of a beam, or
leg of a piece of furniture, leaving the exterior
apparently sound, and the first intimation you
have of the work of destruction being commenced,
is the beam falling down in particles of dust ; or
the table, bedstead, or chair giving way. At cer-
tain seasons they acquire wings, and possibly, to
the dismay of the inhabitants, in a few minutes
every article in the room will be covered with
white ants, and the only way to entice them out
of the dwelling is to have a fire kindled in the
compound, as a bi'illiant light invariably attracts
these insects.

The Cingalese call their nests " heaps of old
boiled rice," and they are composed of various
substances, so amalgamated as to bear a strong

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 217

resemblance to a fine white honeycomb and
grains of rice. We have heard of those who have
broken off pieces of these abodes to examine them,
and who have as a reward for their laudable spirit
of investigation, we presume, been most severely
bitten or stung by the inmates. A difference of
opinion exists, as to whether white ants sting, or
bite; we know not what means they employ, but
we do know they can draw blood in one instant,
and cause extreme pain when inflicting the wound.

VOL. I.

218 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

CHAPTER IX.

Geographical position of Ceylon — Size, fertility, and produce
— Mentioned by classical wiiters of antiquity — Hindoo and
Cingalese records — Date of the submersion of the island,
nearly coincides with the Mosaic — Indian conqueror,
Wijeya — Aborigines — Island visited by the Komans —
Cingalese ambassadors visit Rome— Account given in the
sixth centui-y by Comas Indicopleustes — Island first
visited by the Portuguese in 1505 — Native account —
Dutch in Ceylon — Wars between the Portuguese and
Dutch — Affecting historical anecdote — Battles — The
Portuguese possessions in Ceylon obtained by the Dutch
in 1658 — List of the Portuguese Governors.

Ceylon is siliiale between 5*^ 56', and 9^ 50'
north latitude, and between 80° and 82° east lon-
gitude ; and, froin the shape and position of the
island, it has, with no less beauty than truth,
been compared to a jiear'-drop on the brow of"

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 219

the Indian continent. Its length is about 276
miles, its breadth about 103, and its circumference
is about 900. The superficial area is nearly
24,000 square miles, and the population is esti-
mated (since the last census) under a million and
a-half. The island is bounded on the north-east
by the Gulf of Mannar, by which it is separated
from the main land, and the Indian Ocean bounds
its other shores.

The sea-shoi'e presents great diversity of
scenery ; in some places studded with barren
rocks, in others wooded to the water's edge with
cocoa-nut trees, which skirt the island, presenting
a scene of truly oriental beauty.

In the interior are mountains from 6,000 to
8,000 feet in elevation, which form a species of
natural circular fortification, protecting the inte-
rior, by means of which the natives were enabled
to defy European modes of warfare for more than
three centuries. Many of these mountains are
clothed from base to summit with primeval forests,
and among the trees may be seen the cinnamon-
laurel, but, when this shrub attains the dimensions
of a moderate sized tree, it is useless for commer-
cial purposes. It is on the slopes of these moun-
tains that the soil best adapted for the cultivation
of cofTee is situated, and since 1835 the culture of

L 2

•220 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

this slirub lias so increased, that the ]ivoduce of
Ceylon alone, is nearly sufficient to furnish the
supplies requisite for the consumption of Great
Britain.

Although the breezes passing over the ocean
and these lofty mountains are at times refreshing,
the oppression produced by the heated atmo-
sphere is frequently extreme ; but the suffocating
simooms experienced on the continent of India
are here entirely unknown.

The Wellanee, the Mahawelliganga, the Gui-
dora, and the Kalluganga, are the principal rivers ;
and the sources of these, together with those of
some smaller and tributary ones, originate in the
lofty mountains ; and the fertility of this verdant
isle may be attributed to the plentiful supply of
good water.

The temperature of the island varies consider
ably, as in the mountains, and at Newera Ellia,
the thermometer will fall below freezing-point,
whilst on the coast it will range from eighty-six
to ninety-six of Fahrenheit.

From the earliest ages Lanka-Diva, or Ceylon,
has been renowned for the wealth of its marine,
vegetable, and mineral productions : the sea yield-
ing cosily pearls, and a plentiful supply of various
and delicious fish, fit fur the sustenance of man.

CEYLON AND THK CINGALESE. "2-2 1

The vegetable kingdom teems with riches of
another nature, equally valuable — the coffee-bush,
from the berry of which the fragrant decoction is
made ; the cinnamon-laurel, the bark of which
furnishes delicious spice, and from whose leaves a
pure oil is obtained ; the nutmeg-tree, with its
aromatic spice ; the dove-tree, with its fragrant
blossoms; the sugar-cane, with its juicy pulp and
spiral slender leaves ; and the tobacco-plant.

The graceful cocoa-nut tree, which will spring
into existence where there is scarcely soil suffi-
cient to cover the root; the green fruit furnishing
a cooling and delicious beverage, the ripened nut
food, the shell fuel, the fibres are woven into coir,
or rope, and from the old nut a pure oil is ex-
tracted ; the leaves, when plaited, form a shelter
from the elements ; the trunk yields a juice from
which, when fermented, a spirit is distilled, or
sugar extracted ; and the tree, when ]jast bearing
fruit, is cut down, and the beautifully-variegated
timber is made into articles of furniture.

The Jack-tree, with its enormous fruit of an
oval shape, measuring more than eighteen inches
in diameter, affording nourishment ; while its
yellow trunk, when hewn, is made into articles
for domestic use. The magnificent bread-fruit-

2-22 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE

tree, with its splendid foliage and fruit ; the
orange, pomegranate, lime, shaddock, and tama-
rind, with their luxuriant verdure, flowers, and
delicious fruit ; added to these, we find the Malay
apple, cashew-nut, fig, papaw, jambo, almond,
guava, custard-apple, rambatam, and mangoe
trees, and nearly every other tropical fruit, all
being distinguished for their size and umbrageous
foliage.

Amongst the denizens of vegetation, we find
the elegant banana, or plantain-tree, with its broad,
young leaves, folded trumpetwise one within the
other ; the superb amethyst, bell-shaped flower,
with yellow petals, and the pendant clusters of
yellow, ripened, luscious fruit : the amber ananas,
or pineapple, with its green crest, and the grena-
dilla melon with its mottled rind. Whilst amongst
culinary vegetables are brinjal, yams, sweet pota-
toes, occus, a species of cucumber, pumpkins, and
rice ; whilst European vegetables and fruit, such
as strawberries, peas, beans, potatoes, and cab-
bages, have been introduced into Kandy and
Newera-Ellia since 1823.

In the forests are found, the noble talipat,
ebony, calamander, banyan, areka-nut, suriya and
many other trees, whose names are totally un-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 223

known to Europeans ; but, were we to attempt to
give an account of all the riches of the botanical
produce of Ceylon, it would occupy volumes.

The frultfulness of the earth's womb is here
developed in the production of the ruby, emerald,
sapphire, onyx, amethyst, opal, moon-stone, cat's-
eye, jacynth, and topaz. The precious gems here
enumerated are found at the present day ; and we
have been informed by a Kandian noble of high
rank, that gold was formerly found on the island.

From the foregoing facts, it is apparent

" What Heaven has done for this delicious land ;"

and, by judicious and energetic government and
management, the prolific and fertile isle might
soon be rendered the most productive of our colo-
nies, and the brightest colonial gem in the British
diadem.

The Cingalese are extremely proud of the cele-
brity and antiquity of their isle ; and the native
historians assert, that thousands of years before
the birth of our Saviour, the island was peopled
by a race whose mental powers were highly culti-
vated, and of whom they are the descendants.
Certain it is, that the Cingalese, for centuries past,
have been retrogading in the arts and sciences ;
as the antiquarian remains of public buildings,

224 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

tanks, and temples of vast magnitude, found in
the interior of the island, indicate the existence of
a nation, which had nurtured and brought to per-
fection the nobler arts.

These extraordinary remains will be noticed
more particularly in a future paper devoted to the
antiquities of Lanka-diva; but to proceed regu-
larly, we must now glance at the early history of
Ceylon, although the greater portion of it is in-
volved in obscurity. Cingalese historians affirm
that here was situated the garden of Eden ; from
the top of the highest mountain in the island,
called Adam's Peak, they say that the progenitor
of all mankind was expelled, and that from this
mountain's top the trace of his footstep is to be
seen.

We gather from Herodotus that the earlier
Greeks had a knowledge of the countries and
islands east of the Indus, but the first circumstan-
tial account that we haveof Taprabane, or Ceylon,
is given by Onesiculus, the Macedonian admiral,
who lived B. c. 329 or 80. Diodorus Siculus
B. c. 44, gives a correct account of the size and
situation of the island and describes the natives,
customs and pi'oductions, with extreme fidelity,
although a love for the marvellous is occasionally
indulged in. Strabo states that Taprabane

CEYLON AND THK CINGALESE. '220

abounded iu elephants, and that the contiguous
waters teemed with amphibious creatures of an
immense size. Dionysius, who flourished a.d. 36,
confirms former accounts, saying, " And from
thence the vessel's course being turned to the
west, immediately in front of the promontory of
Koolis, you will come to a large island, Taprabane,
mother of Asia born elephants, and other strange
animals." This celebrated geographer treats of
the size and value of the elephants and their
tusks, the gems and fragrant spices. Notwith-
standing numerous other proofs have been ad-
duced to prove that Ceylon is synonymous with the
Taprabane of the ancient classical historians, a diver-
sity of opinion has arisen among writers, as to the
identity of the island j but, as it would be unprotit-
able to follow ancient or modern authors through
their various disquisitions on this subject, we
shall proceed to give an account of the presumed
origin of the Cingalese. Ribeiro writes, in his
" Historia de Ilgha de Zeilau : —

" The Chinese, from a remote period, w ere the
masters of Oriental commerce ; and some of their
vessels were driven upon the coast of Ceylon,
near the district which they subsequently termed
Chilau. The mariners and passengers saved
themselves upon the rocks; and, finding the island

L 5

226 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

fertile, soon established themselves upon it.
Shortly afterwards, the Malabars, having disco-
vered it, sent hither their exiles, whom they deno-
minated Galas. The exiles were not long in
mixing with the Chinese ; and from the two
names was formed Chingalees, and afterwards
Chingalais."

The other statement is, that the son of an Indian
king, Wijeya Singha, of renowned warlike propen-
sities, who, the native authors assert, conquered
the island, and bestowed upon them his name of
Singha. Why or wherefore the island is called
Ceylon, and the people Cingalese, can matter
little ; but to us it appears evident, that the Chi-
nese were neither wholly nor in part the abori-
gines of Ceylon, as those who are acquainted with
the yellow skins, small elliptic eyes, broad faces,
and flat features of that nation, will readily admit
that the Cingalese differ from them completely,
both in complexion and features. But there is
great similitude in every way, between the person
and complexion, of the Cingalese and Indian.

To us it seems that the only hypothesis to be
drawn from the above is, that the Indian king,
Singha, did conquer the island of Ceylon, at an
early date, and that his followers mixed with the
aborigines, and from them the present race is de-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 227

scended. Whether any of the aborigines, how-
ever, are now to be found in the island, whose
blood is unmixed with Indian, it is difficult to
prove, or whether the Veddahs, or wild men, of
the present day, are descendants of the original
inhabitants of Ceylon ; but at this time they are a
distinct race, and are only to be found in the in-
terior, living in the jungle, in caves, or in rude
huts built of the branches of trees, wandering from
jungle to jungle in search of game, quitting each
successively as food becomes scarce, and shooting
their prey with rude bows and arrows ; and these
Veddahs will not hold intercourse, live in a town,
or intermarry with the inhabitants. We have
been informed that the language they speak is un-
intelligible to most other natives of the island.
All these facts, therefore, strengthen our pre-
viously-stated supposition, that the Veddahs, are
the aborigines of the island ; and that the other
inhabitants are the issue of the aborigines and the
Indians.

[t is distinctly proved by historical records that
the island was conquered by Wijeya, B.C. 54."5,
and Ceylon was then called, as it now is by
Hindoos, Lanka-diva. It may not be irrelevant
to remark, that both Hindoo and Cingalese chro-
nicles agree in stating, that about 2387 B.C., the

228 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

island was ovevwlielmed by the sea, and in this
(late there are but forty years difference be-
tween it, and the time assigned to the dehige by
Usher, in his erudite chronology. The native
writers state that this calamity was brought about
by the wickedness of their monarch, Rawana, who
then ruled the island, and the obdurate sinfulness
of the inhabitants ; and this also, is a remarkable
similarity between the Mosaic and heathen rea-
sons assigned for the flood.

Cingalese records state, " The foaming waves
of the ocean overwhelmed the most fertile and
extensive provinces, as well as the lovely capital
of our pearl-like island, Sri-Lanka-poora, and
since then the resplendent palaces, stately towers,
seven concentric walls, and battlements of shining
brass, are known only to the gods of the sea."
llawana was the sovereign of Southern India and
Ceylon, and carred off the lovely wife of Rama, the
king of Oude, into his " pearl-island kingdom," and
bloody wars ensued which nearly depopulated the
island. And the whole history is set forth in the
Rama-yama, the oldest epic poem extant. Having
thus glanced incidentally at the history of Ceylon
before the flood, and the birth of our blessed Lord,
we will proceed to the first century of our era.

Piinv affirms, that during the reign of the Em-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 229

peror Claudius, a Roman vessel from the coast of
Arabia, was driven upon that of Taprabane, or
Ceylon ; that the king of the country treated the
Romans with hospitality and kindness during
their sojourn of six months; and upon their de-
parture they were accompanied by four ambassa-
dors from the Eastern to the Roman monarch.
Many modern writers treat this account as fabu-
lous ; but, in our opinion, Pliny is borne out in
his statement by the fact, that Roman medals of
ancient date were found, in the year 1574, at
Mantotte, in Ceylon. We learn also, from Pliny,
that a fleet, consisting of more than one hundred
sail, went each year from the Red Sea to the
coasts of Malabar and Ceylon, for the purposes of
trade. Doubt has been thrown on this assertion,
as writers state that it would have been impracti-
cable for the ill- constructed vessels of that period,
and with imperfect knowledge of navigation, for
the Romans to have traversed the Indian Ocean ;
and although it must be allowed that such a
voyage must necessarily have been a perilous one,
still it was perfectly practicable to have sailed
with one monsoon, and to have returned by the
opposite, as is the custom, in the present day,
with the unwieldy junks of Siam.

All writers agree that in the first century after

230 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the Christian era, regular commercial intercourse
was established between the inhabitants of
Southern Europe and those of India and Ceylon.
Gibbon, in his " Decline and Fall of the Roman
Empire,'' writes : — " The objects of Oriental traffic
were splendid and trifling ; silk, a pound of which
was esteemed not inferior in value to a pound of
gold ; precious stones, amongst which the pearl
claimed the first rank after the diamond ; and a
variety of aromatics that were consumed in reli-
gious worship and the pomp of funerals." The
articles here enumerated appear to have been the
principal exports required by the wealthy and
luxurious Romans ; with the exception of the
elephant's tusks, from which they manufactured
articles of furniture, drinking-vessels, and personal
ornaments, and this coveted-material Ceylon could
supply most abundantly ; therefore we may fairly
conclude that the trade of Ceylon with Rome was
considerable. About this time the Chinese began
to trade with the Cingalese ; and we find com-
merce gradually extending until the sixth century,
when Ceylon was visited by Cosmas, who was
surnaraed Indicopleustes, during the reign of the
Emperor Justinian ; and he particularly treats of
the precious gems and spices, which were con-
veyed to all parts of India, Persia, and the Arabian
Gulph, from Ceylon.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 231

We cannot trace, century by century, the course
of the history or commerce of Ceylon, but will
quote the words of Marco Polo, who visited the
island, a.d, 1244. After describing its position
and size, he writes : —

" Both men and women go nearly in a state ol
nudity, only wrapping a cloth round their loins.
They have no grain besides rice and sesame, of
which latter they make oil. Their food is milk,
rice, and flesh, and they drink wine drawn from
trees. The island produces more valuable and
beautiful rubies than those found in any other
part of the world ; and likewise sapphires, topazes,
amethysts, garnets, and many other precious and
costly stones. * In this island there is a very
high mountain, so rocky and precipitous, that the
ascent to the top is impracticable, as it is said,
excepting by the assistance of iron chains em-
ployed for that purpose ; by means of these some
persons attain the summit, whei'e the tomb of
Adam, our first parent, is reported to be found."

And yet this circumstantial account, w'ith its
veracity of detail, was stamped as fable, both by
the contemporaneous writers, and those who
Ibllowcd, for a lengthened period, after the decease
of the learned and truthful author.

* Samauella, or Adaiu's Peak.

232 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Ill the year of our Lord, 1444, Nicola de Conle,
a Venetian, gives a particular account of the tali-
pot-tree, its leaves, size, &c., and describes the
mode of preparing cinnamon, and the precious
gems and pearls that were found in Ceylon. From
the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, we have
much valuable information given us by various
authorS;, concerning the trade of the island ; but
as our principal business is connected with it after
it came into the possession of Europeans, we will
at once state, that, in 1505, the Portuguese, under
Don Lorenzo de Almeida, visited the island, and
were permitted to trade.

Previously to proceeding with the history of the
country from the sixteenth century, we must take
a retrospective glance at the ancient historical ac-
count of the government of Ceylon under its native
rulers, or kings. From these accounts, it appears
that the island was frequently in a state of war-
fare, either with the Malabars, or Muormen of the
adjacent continent; that, with the fortunes of war,
each would conquer alternately, and in turn be
subdued, when ratifications of peace would ensue
to be again broken, which, necessarily, produced
fresh hostilities; and it is apparent that Kandy
and the adjacent country became subjugated
eventually by the Malabars, who placed a prince

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 233

of their own nation on the throne, and maintained
their position against the native kings of the south,
the Portuguese and Dutch rulers, until dethroned
by the force of British arms and valour in 1815.
The island was divided into various principalities,
each ruled by its own king, who would continu-
ally make incursions into the domains of a brother
monarch, when war would result; the weaker
party would become captive, and his kingdom
would merge into that of tlie conqueror.

Notwithstanding these continued internal com-
motions, the wealth of the people appears to have
been great; and arts and sciences were cultivated
to an extent which would seem incredible, were
the statement not borne out by historical and
native writings of that period, and supported by
the remains of ancient grandeur, which are dis-
persed throughout the island.

We shall now leave the ancient historical retro-
spect of Ceylon, and return to a.d. 1505, when the
Portuguese obtained permission from the emperor
of Ceylon to trade with his subjects, bartering the
produce of Europe for the ivory, gems, and spices
of their island. History asserts that it was
chance, or rather adverse winds, which drove the
Portuguese vessels on the shores of Ceylon, whilst
in pursuit of some Moorish pirates whom they

234 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

had seen sailing in the dii'ection of the Maldives,
and the winds proving adverse, they sought refuge
in the Bay of Colombo. The Portuguese at that
period were endeavouring to extend their trade,
and obtain possessions in the east — Goa, on the
Malabar coast, being their principal settlement,
and the contiguity of Goa to Ceylon offered pecu-
liar facility for bringing their policy into action.
Francisco de Almeida, the governor of Goa, was
a shrewd, crafty, wily politician, and one well
calculated to carry his sovereign's schemes for the
extension of his dominions into effect. Accord-
ingly, we find that the vessels were scarcely an-
chored off Colombo, before he made overtures to
the emperor to trade with the natives. From a
curious antiquarian work in Cingalese, the follow-
ing description of the Portuguese, their diet, and
guns, is extracted : —

" And now it occurred, in the Christian year
1505, that a ship from Portugal arrived and an-
chored in Colombo. The race of men are exceed-
ingly white and beautiful ; they wear a covering
to the feet and head made of iron, and they are
always in motion. Their drink is the colour of
blood; and they eat what looks like a white stone.
They have weapons of warfare which make a
noise like thunder when it breaks upon Jugan-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 235

dere Parivata, and a ball of iron shot from one of
them, after flying some leagues, will break a castle
of stone."

According to the Portuguese historian, Ribeiro,
a treaty was made between the Portuguese and
Cingalese raonarchs, and it was stipulated that
the emperor, Prackrama, should pay a tribute
annually, to consist of two hundred and fifty
thousand pounds of cinnamon, to the king of Por-
tugal, on condition that the latter should assist in
defending Ceylon from her enemies and invaders.

Although the trade of the island had been de-
creasing for centuries, still, in 1518, it must have
been considerable ; for, when the Portuguese mo-
narch sent a fleet of nineteen sail to enforce the
payment of the tribute, the commander of this
expedition, Alvarengo, writes (according to Ri-
beiro):— " In the harbour of Colombo we found
many ships from Bengal, Persia, the Red Sea, and
other places, waiting for their freights of elephants'
tusks and spices " Prackrama refused to pay the
tribute, and hostilities were commenced by Alva-
rengo, who took possession of Colombo, and
forced the Cingalese monarch to acknowledge
himself tributary to the crown of Portugal. On
the death of Prackrama, in 1527, the island was
torn by civil war, which was carried on with more

236 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

or less vigour until the year 1536 (during the
whole of this period skirmishes continually took
place between the Portuguese and natives, which
invariably concluded by the success of" the former j,
when the reigning monarch placed his grandson,
and successor to his throne, under the protection
of the crown of Portugal, sending an embassy to
that court with the image of the young prince, and
a crown of pure virgin gold.

Between the years 1518 and 1536, the Portu-
guese had introduced the form of Roman Catholic
worshij) into Ceylon, and had endowed a monas-
tery in Colombo, and Juan Monteira, the first
Romish bishop of Ceylon, died at Colombo in the
latter year.

In 1541, the effigy of the young prince, Dhar-
maa Paala, which had been sent to the court of
Portugal, was crowned by John III., in the great
hall of his palace at Lisbon, with extreme cere-
mony and rejoicings, the ambassadors from the
Cingalese monarch, with a numerous retinue,
being present on the occasion — the king of Por-
tugal, by this public act, acknowledging that he
had accepted the protection of the young prince,
and that he undertook the charge confided to him
by the grandfather of Dharmaa Paala, the then
reigning monarch of Ceylon, who having been

CKYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 287

accidentally shot by a Portuguese gentleman in
the succeeding year, the Portuguese raised Dhar-
raaa Paala to the throne, thereby exciting consi-
derable commotions amongst the natives, as the
uncle of Dharmaa Paala laid claim to the crown,
and was supportedby numerous followers; and, in
consequence, much bloodshed ensued.

Eventually the arms of Portugal were victori-
ous, and Dharmaa Paala retained possession of the
throne until he bequeathed the whole island, in
1580, to the crown of Portugal. It is about this
time that a native historian writes : — " From this
period forward, the women of the principal people,
and also the women of the low castes, such as
humowas and challias, /or the sake of Portuguese
gold, began to turn Chrhtians, and to live with
the Portuguese ;" and it is from this intercourse
of the Cingalese women with the Portuguese, and
subsequently with the Dutch, that the burghers,
or half-castes, have principally sprung. These
Ceylonese, as they call themselves, in contradis-
tinction to the Cingalese, possess all the vices of
the natives, without the redeeming or ennobling
qualities of either their European or Asiatic pro-
genitors.

The Portuguese were not allowed to retain
peaceable possession of the island, asRajah Singha

238 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

proclaimed himself king of Ceylon, and a long
and bloody war ensued, which ended in the defeat
and death of Rajah Singha, at the advanced age
of one hundred and twenty years, which event oc-
curred in the year 1592.

The Portuguese now resolved upon subjugating
Kandy, which had remained to this period an in-
dependent state, and sent a large force thither for
that purpose, which was defeated, suffering great
loss.

It was in the year 1602, that the Dutch first
turned their attention towards Ceylon ; their pos-
sessions in the East Indies were vast and lucra-
tive, and this island would open a new gate to
gain, could they obtain a footing ; consequently,
in furtherance of their design, Admiral Spillbergen
was despatched by the Prince of Orange and
States General of Holland, with three men-of-
war, fully armed and equipped, to open commu-
nication with the natives.

The fleet anchoi'ed south of Batticalloa on the
29th of March in that year, and the admiral im-
mediately commenced a correspondence with the
o-overnor of Batticalloa, and finally despatched a
messenger to the king of Kandy, Wimala Dhar-
maa, who received him with cordiality, and sent a
letter to the admiral, written by himself, inviting

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 239

the admiral to his kingdom. Accordingly, on the
6th of July following, Admiral Spillbergen, with
his suite, set out for Kandy, and they were treated
by the king with great attention and hospitality ;
every opportunity was afforded them to acquire
information, and every public building opened to
their inspection. The king appeared desirous to
have the Dutch for allies, and offered every faci-
lity for carrying on trade between the two nations;
endeavouring at the same time, with eager curi-
osity, to obtain insight into the laws, customs, and
religion of Europe.

The admiral's mission proved a most successful
one, as he obtained permission to build a fort on
the sea-shore, and to carry on a free trade in cin-
namon and pepper. Spillbergen sailed from Bat-
ticalloa on the 'Snd of September, and, espying
three Poi-tuguese sail off" the coast of Ceylon, he
made for, engaged with, and finally captured
these vessels, and sent them as presents to the
king of Kandy.

In the following year, Schalt De Weerd was

sent by the Dutch to Ceylon, and was received by

their new ally, Wimala Dharmaa, in the most

amicable manner, and an ambassador from the

king of Kandy accompanied De Weerd when he

sailed for Achcn. De Weerd, however, subse-

8

240 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

quently exasperated the king of Kaiidy by break-
ing the treaty of alliance, and releasing four Por-
tuguese vessels which had been recently captured
by him. WimalaDharmaa, upon the return of the
Dutch squadron to the coast of Ceylon, remon-
strated with the admiral upon this violation of the
treaty and breach of faith ; and the ambassador
excited Wimala Dharrnaa's suspicion, cautioning
him against the treachery of his new allies.

Shortly afterwards, the admiral requested the
king to visit him on board his ship ; but this the
monarch positively refused to do, fearing that he
might be made prisoner, alleging, as his reason,
that the queen was alone at Kandy, and that he
must return to her. De Weerd continued to press
his request with impertinent importunity, and con-
cluded by saying, that the king need be in no
hurry to retmni to the lascivious queen, as doubt-
less she had found some one to supply the king's
iilace before this time: adding, that if his request
was not complied with, he would not attack Galle,
according to the articles of the treaty. Wimala
Dharmaa immediately ordered his attendants to
seize De Weerd, saying, " Seize that foul-mouthed
pig!" A skirmish then ensued between the Kan-
dians and the Dutch, as the former essayed to
carry their monarch's orders into effect, and

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 241

De Weerd and many of his attendants were
killed.

It is impossible to read of the conduct of Schalt
De Weerd without loathing the character of the
despicable, treacherous, coarse, Dutchman, who
met the fate his insolence drew on his head ; and,
although historians endeavour to palliate his con-
duct, by saying that he was heated with wine ; in
the estimation of all right-minded men this
excuse, if a correct one, only heightens the folly of
the Dutch, in sending an admiral, addicted to
drunkenness, to negotiate and carry out a treaty
with an ally.

The following epigrammatic and terse note was
sent by the king of Kandy to the second officer in
command of the squadron : —

"He who drinks wine is worse than a sow.
Buddha lias executed justice. If you want peace,
let there be peace — If war, tlien war."

It appears from history, that the Dutch allowed
the death of De Weerd to pass unnoticed, as they
did not declare war against VVimala Dharmaa,
who died in 1604, and was succeeded by his bro-
ther, Senerat, who married the widowed queen of
Kandy.

We find no further mention of the Dutch until
the year 1612, when Marcellus De Boschouder

VOL. I. M

242 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

arrived at Kancly, and entered into a new treaty
with the Kandian sovereign, offensive and defen-
sive ; they were then granted the exckisive right
of trading in Ceylon, and were allowed to com-
mence building a fort at Cottiar. The Portu-
guese, already in possession of the island, viewed
with jealous hostility the privileges granted to the
Dutch ; and immediately on the fort of Cottiar
being commenced, despatched an army, consisting
of more than 4,000 soldiers, composed of Portu-
guese, Cingalese, and Moormen, to attack the
fort, which they took after a desperate resist-
ance made by the Dutch? and butchered in the
most barbarous manner the whole of the occu-
pants, including women and children.

This massacre of his new allies, by the Portu-
guese, so exasperated Seneiat, that he sent an
array of 5,000 men in pursuit, who fell in with
the invaders before they reached their own terri-
tories, and vanquished them, making many pri-
soners, from whom they demanded heavy ran-
soms. The king of Kandy now resolved upon ex-
pelling the Portuguese from Cejlon, and com-
menced war in a vigorous style against them, suc-
cessfully ; and, in 1614, we learn that an envoy
from the viceroy of Goa proceeded to Kandy, and
proposed a treaty of peace, which Sencrat refused

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 243

to accede to. From this date until 1635, we find
the Kandians, assisted by the Dutch, at con-
tinued war with the Portuguese ; the latter erect-
ing forts at Trincomalee and Batticalloa, for the
protection of the coast, but suffering constant and
severe defeats ; the Kandian army advancing as far
as Colombo, in their attempts to expel the Portu-
guese from Ceylon : and it was only after a pro-
tracted and desperate struggle that the Portuguese
succeeded in retaining possession of the fort of
Colombo.

In the year 1635, Senerat died, after a brilliant
reign of thirty years, and was succeeded by his
eldest son, Raja Singh a II.

Wijaya Paalaa, the king's brother, claimed as
his right, that Matele and the adjacent provinces
should be formed into a separate kingdom, and
he proclaimed their monarch; and endeavoured
to enforce his demand by flying to arms, and
calling in the aid of the Portuguese, who readily
acceded to this request in the expectation that
the commotion produced by civil war would aid
their own designs.

Historians differ materially as to the number
of the invading army— Ribeiro and Botelho stating
that it was composed of seven hundred Euro-
peans, and twenty-eight thousand Indians ; while

M 2

•244 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Valentyn affirms that it consisted of two thousand
three hundred Europeans and half-castes, with
six thousand Caffres. But be the number what
it might, it is certain that a large army, com-
manded by Don Diego de Melho, did penetrate
into the interior, and, after ransacking Kandy,
retired to Gannaruwa. Here Rajah Singha, the
king of Kandy, surrounded them with his forces,
putting all to death, either by the sword or bar-
barous modes of torture, and subsequently cut off
their heads and piled them up in a pyraraidical
form, as a warning to all aggressors; and history
asserts that only eight-and-thirty Europeans es-
caped this frightful slaughter.

In the year 1637, the Kandian monarch re-
solved upon calling in the aid of his Dutch allies
to assist ])im in vanquishing the Portuguese, and
driving them from Ceylon, and sent ambassadors
to Batavia for that purpose, who were received
with every mark of res])ect ; and envoys from the
Dutch were immediately despatched to Kandy.
A treaty was entered into, whereby the Dutch
agreed to furnish troops to the Kandian monarch
u])on the stipulation that the whole expenses of
the war, on land and at sea, were to be defrayed
by Rajah Singha. This the king consented to
readily, but insisted that all the forts built by the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 215

Portuguese, as they were taken, should be placed
in his hands. All being now satisfactorily ar-
ranged, the envoys returned, and Admiral Wes-
terwold was sent in command of a force of six
hundred men and several pieces of cannon, who
immediately attacked Batticalloa, wresting it
from the Portuguese ; and the king of Kandy, as
a token of gratitude, sent two ambassadors to
Batavia with presents to the General and Council
of the Indies.

Trincomalee was taken from the Portuguese in
1639, and by the orders of Rajah Singha the fort
was razed to the ground, and not one stone left
standing on the other. The fort at Batticalloa
had previously shared the same fate, so that the
whole of the fortifications belonging to the Por-
tuguese, on the eastern coast, were now de-
stroyed.

In the year 1640, the war continued to rage
with renewed vigour, success following the Kan-
dian and Dutch troops. Negombo, a fortilicd
town about eight leagues and a-half to the north,
was taken by the Dutch after a faint resistance
made by the Portuguese, as the spirits of the men
were sinking under the continued prosperity that
followed the Dutch arms. Immediately after
taking Negombo, the Dutch marched to Point

246 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

de Galle, and stormed the place, which was
taken after a vigorous resistance had been made
by the governor, Ferreiro de Bretto, who fought
by the side of his men the whole night of the
assault, and fell covered with wounds, and his
life was only spared at the entreaty of his noble
and heroic wife.

This affords us an opportunity of relating an
instance of the devotion and courage of woman,
where her affections are called forth, and which
is recorded by Ribeiro, who states, the governor
of Point de Galle, Ferreiro de Bretto, was mar-
ried to a woman who was passionately attached
to him, and that on the night of the assault she
remained at his side on the batteries, animating
and cheering him by her presence and courage.
At length, after receiving five wounds, a blow
with a mushet levelled him, and the soldier was
about to dispatch him when his wife threw herself
between them, calling upon him as a man and
a Christian to spare her husband's life. Finding
the soldier hesitate, she implored him to take her
life first, and thus save her the anguish of seeing
her beloved husband butchered before her eyes,
and threw herself on her knees, clinging to her
prostrate husband. A Dutch officer, who was
near, hastened to the group, desired the soldier

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 247

to desist, raised the weeping lady, and had the
gallant governor tended until his wounds were
healed.

Admiral Koster, under whose command Galle
had been taken, was now made governor of the
place, and he immediately commenced building
and repairing the fortifications ; but finding the
Portuguese were making preparations to retake
Point de Galle, he deemed it necessary to call
in the aid of the Kandian king, and proceeded
to Kandy for that purpose. Rajah Singha re-
ceived him with cold civility, and, although he
promised to assist the Dutch admiral against the
Portuguese, refrained from keeping his word, as
he considered that were the Dutch to become
masters of the south of the island he would only
be exchanging his enemies.

The king now appeared to have awakened to
the line of policy which had induced the Dutch
to give him the aid of their troops to expel the
Portuguese from Kandy, which was, that they
might eventually become the masters of the whole
island, as every place which had been taken by
the Dutch had a large garrison left there to guard
and protect it from the natives as much as from
the Portuguese. Admiral Koster vehemently
pressed the king for his aid, which was at last

248 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

peremptorily refused. The admiral then accused
the king's ministers of interfering to prevent
Rajah Singha keeping his treaty with the Dutch.
High words ensued, and the admiral quitted
the king's presence in great wrath, setting out
immediately for Galle, which he was never
destined to reach, as he was murdered on the
road between Kandy and Batticalloa, it is said
by the king's orders.

The Portuguese appear to have been imbued
with their former valour, as they retook Negombo,
and there were constant skirmishes all over the
island between them and the Dutch. In the year
1644, the fortune of war again placed Negombo
in the hands of the Dutch, and they forthwith
fortified the town, throwing up earthen bastions
at every corner of the fort, and on these were
mounted several pieces of cannon.

In 1646, a temporary pacification was entered
into between the Dutch and Portuguese, which
continued until 1654, and, during the intervening
period a species of desultory war was carried on
by Rajah Singha against the Dutch and Portu-
guese.

The Dutch authorities at Negombo, in 1646,
carried off some of the king of Kandy's tame ele-
phants, and slew them for the sake of their tusks

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. "249

and molar teeth. This act of wanton aggression
natmally excited the anger and aronsed the ven-
geance of Rajah Singlia, who without loss of time
surrounded the Dutch troops, took their com-
mander, Adrian van der Stell, prisoner, caused
him to be strangled, then cut off his head, and
sent it enclosed in a silken wrapper to his coun-
trymen who were stationed on the sea coast, with
a message to the effect that thus he punished
murderers and robbers.

In the year 1655, hostilities again recom-
menced between the Dutch and Portuguese, and
Callura was taken by the former in the October
of that year. During the month of December
following, the Dutch took prisoner the Portu-
guese governor of Jaffnapatam, as he was on his
road from Manaar to Colombo, then the stronghold
of the Portuguese. The Dutch now prosecuted
the war against the Portuguese with renewed
energy ; and, marching up to Colombo, laid siege
to that city, blockading it both by sea and land ;
and, after severe loss on both sides, and an obsti-
nate resistance on the part of the Portuguese for
seven months, it was surrendered by capitulation,
the Portuguese stipulating that they should be
allowed to retire unimpeded to Jaflnajiatani.

The accounts given by Ribciro of the sullcrings

M 5

250 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

of the Portuguese during this siege are frightful.
Reduced to starvation, they swallowed the most
loathsome matter, resorting to the most revolting
expedients to sustain life — maternal love being
engulphed in the pangs of hunger, and mothers
cutting the throats of infants at their breast, de-
voured their offspring to sustain life. These ac-
counts are too horrible to dwell upon, and we
willingly let a veil fall over them.

Not contented with the victory they had al-
ready obtained, the Dutch pursued the Portu-
guese to Jaffnapatam, thereby violating the arti-
cles of the capitulation ; and, after a siege of four
months, it was surrendered, and the inhabitants
made prisoners of war. The Portuguese historian
vituperates most bitterly the indignities offered
to his nation by the Dutch — houses pillaged,
plantations destroyed, wives dishonoured, and
daughters ravished, are amongst the crimes that
he attributes to the Dutch conquerors.

It is at all times fearful to contemplate the
horrors of war, and its attendant misery to indi-
viduals, even of the victorious nation, but how
much greater to meditate on the sufferings of
those attached to the conquered country ? But
in no history do we find greater atrocities recorded
than those laid to the charge of the Dutch after

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 251

the surrender of JafFnapatam, in 1G58, and which
terminated Portuguese dominion in Ceylon ; but
our own sentiments cannot better be expressed
than in Fox's favourite maxim, " Iniquissimam
pacem justissimo bello antefero."

We conclude the account of the Portuguese
rule in the island, by quoting the following from
Percival's " Ceylon :"—

*' The improvements made in the cultivation of
Ceylon by the Portuguese were by no means con-
siderable— that people, when they first took pos-
session of it, were rather warriors than merchants.
Their continual wars with the natives contributed
to keep up the same spirit ; and their principal
attention seems to have been directed to the forti-
fication of a few stations on the coast, and the
erection of some military posts to awe the natives.
But the Portuguese appear never to have properly
discovered the advantages to be derived from this
island, either in a commercial or military point of
view. Their dominion extended all around it,
and no station could be pointed out more commo-
dious for a depot, either of merchandize or mili-
tary stores. These advantages were overlooked
by the court of Lisbon ; and those individuals
who were sent to the command at Ceylon, were
more anxious to gratify their pride by conquest,

252 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

and their avarice by extortion, than to pursue a
plan of permanent advantage either to the mother
country, or to the colony. The Portuguese, there-
fore, by their own misconduct, were deprived of
this valuable island before they were aware of the
benefits to be derived from it."

Although we do not coincide completely with
the view taken by this excellent writer, still it is
self-evident that the Portuguese paid but little
attention to the cultivation of this prolific spot of
earth, and we do not find amongst Portuguese
records any statement of the proceeds of any
pearl-fishery ; so that we may conclude that
comparatively little attention was paid to the
commercial or agricultural capabilities of Ceylon.
However, it must be borne in mind that the Por-
tuguese had to contend against innumerable diffi-
culties, being not only at war with the natives,
whom they never entirely conquered, but continu-
ally harassed by skirmishes and war with their
European enemies, the Dutch.

The following is a list of Portuguese governors
and commanders in Ceylon, as given by Ribeiro: —
Pedro Lopez de Souza, Jerome de Azevado, Fran-
cois de Menezes, Manuel Mascarenhas, Homen,
Nunho, Alvares Perreira, Constandin de Sa y
Noronha, G. d'Albuquerque, D, George d'Al-

f

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 253

meida, Diego de Mello, Antoine Mascarenhas,
Philippe Mascarenhas, Francois de Mello de
Castro, Antoine de Souza, Continho, under whom
Colombo was lost. At Jaffnapatam and Manaar
there were also Antoine d'Araarel y Menezes, the
last of their captain-generals.

254 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

CHAPTER X.

Historical accouBt continued j&."om 1659 to 1795, when the
Dutch siuTcnderecl, by capitulation, then- possessions in
Ceylon to the British — List of Dutch Governors — Sum-
maiy of the effect of Portuguese and Dutch ride upon the
Cingalese character — Pliilalethe's account of the same.

The year succeeding the subjugation of the
Portuguese by the Dutch in Ceylon, namely, in
1659, Captain Robert Knox, the first atithor who
wrote an account of the islands, was taken pri-
soner at Batticalloa, the frigate Ann, which he
commanded, having been wrecked off that coast,
when the natives made him and several of his
crew prisoners, who, by the orders of Rajah
Singha II., were sent up to Kandy, and there
held in captivity until 1679, when an escape was
effected.

From " Knox's Historical Revelation," we learn

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 255

that the Dutch experienced great difficulty in re-
taining the possessions which they had wrested
from the Portuguese, as Rajah Singha, the king
of Kandy, was constantly at war with them, en-
deavouring to retake the various fortified places
and sti'ongholds occupied by the Dutch. Notwith-
standing these continual skirmishes, the Dutch,
wishing to retain a footing in the island, in fur-
therance of their commercial and political views,
endeavoured to preserve an amicable course with
the natives, and sent frequent embassies to the
Kandian court, to assure the monarch of their
anxiety and desire to be at peace with him.
Rajah Singha was not to be appeased by assur-
ances, or professions ; occasionally, he would re-
ceive the embassies with toleration, while at other
times he would detain their envoys, without assign-
ing any reason for so doing.

In the year 1670, we find Rajah Singha detained
an envoy, who was resolved to leave Kandy, or
sacrifice his life in the attempt. This noble-
spirited man, whose name we do not find re-
corded, but which ought to have been handed
down to posterity as an example of dauntless
bravery, presented himself before the king, as he
sat on his throne giving audience to his court,
fully armed and equipped for a journey, his per-

256 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

sonal attendants remaining outside the palace
gates, saying that he had come to take leave of
his Majesty, as he was about setting out imme-
diately for Colombo. He bowed respectfully to
the walls, in accordance with the etiquette ob-
served at the Kandian court on taking leave, and
quitted the palace without any attempt being
made by the king to arrest his progress. On the
contrary. Rajah Singha gave orders that he was
to proceed on his journey unmolested, and to re-
ceive what aid he might require in so doing. We
can fully appreciate the Kandian monarch's con-
duct— himself a noble brave character, he could
well estimate the dauntless daring and courage,
that would prompt such a course of action. And
had the Duch invariably pursued an open, honour-
able course with Rajah Singha, they would not
have met with the constant annoyance which they
experienced from the king of Kandy.

No language of ours can so well explain the
erroneous plan they pursued as that of Knox
himself, at that time a prisoner at the Kandian
court : —

"The Dutch, knowing his proud spirit, make
their advantage of it by flattering him with their
ambassadors, telling him that they are his Ma-
jesty's humble subjects and servants, and that it is

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 257

out of loyalty to him that they build forts, and
keep watches round about his country, to prevent
foreign nations and enemies from coming ; and
that as they are thus employed in his Majesty's
service, so it is for sustenance, which they want,
that occasioned their coming up into his Majesty's
country. And thus, by flattering him, and ascrib-
ing to him high and honourable titles, which are
things he greatly delights in, sometimes they pre-
vail to have the country they have invaded, and
he to have the honour ; yet at other times, and
upon better consideration, he will not be flattered,
but falls upon them at unawares, and does them
great damage."

Events pursued the same monotonous routine,
between the Kandian and Dutch, until 1672, when
France directed her attention to Lanka-diva» and
despatched a squadron, commanded by Monsieur
de la Haye, which anchored off" Cottiar, and im-
mediately sent envoys to the Kandian king. Rajah
Singha received them most amicably, and granted
them permission to build a fort near the Bay of
Trincomalee. Monsieur de la Haye shortly after-
wards sailed for the Coromandel coast, sending in
his stead Monsieur de Lanerolle, accompanied by
a suite, to the Kandian court. Most unfortunately
for the French nation, Monsieur de Lanerolle was

258 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

ill calculated for a political mission — hot-headed
and impetuous, absurdly vain of the power, gran-
deur, and customs of his own nation, he refused
observ^ance to the code of etiquette adopted at
Rajah Singha's court, and treated the monarch
with undue familiarity and insolence. This ex-
asperated Rajah Singha, and, upon the return of
Monsieur de la Have, he found De Lanerolle a
prisoner.

The Dutch, taking advantage of this position of
affairs, gave chase to the French squadron, taking
some of their vessels, and the fort near Trinco-
malee which they had built. So terminated the
only well-arranged scheme concocted by the
French to obtain a settlement or possessions in
the island of Ceylon ; and which, in all proba-
bihty, would have been successful, had it not
been for the insane, overweening vanity of De
Lanerolle, which was as strongly characteristic of
the French nation in the seventeenth, as it is in
the nineteenth century — it being a national fail-
ing, and not an individual's foible. For vanity,
and nought but self-sufficient vanity, caused the
disastrous events, precursors of the downfall of
the French empire, which occurred during 1848 ;
and the effect has been the convulsion of Europe,
shaking it to its very centre.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 259

There is a paucity of interesting matter con-
nected with the history of Ceylon, until the year
1679, when the Dutch governor of Colombo, Van
Goen, sent an embassy to Kandy, requiring the
king to abide by the articles of the treaty made
between the two powers. To this the king pro-
raised adherence, his warlike propensities and
energy having become subdued by age and infir-
mity, for at this time he was between seventy and
eighty. In the month of October, in the same
year, Knox effected his escape, after having been
detained a prisoner at the Kandian court for twenty
years.

Again, there seems to have been a cessation of
historical events worthy of record, until the year
1685, when Rajah Singha II. died, after a pro-
tracted reign of fifty-one years, and was succeeded
by his son, Wimala Dharma Suriya. Knox de-
scribes Rajah Singha, with whom he frequently
conversed during his captivity, to have been a
well-formed, portly, athletically-built man, of a
darker hue than most of his countrymen, with
keen shrewd eyes " that were always in motion,
who bears his years well, being between seventy
and eighty years of age, and though an old man,
yet appears not to be like one, neither in counte-
nance nor manners." He was abstemious in his

260 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

diet, and chaste in morals, and punished severely
any dereliction from morality that he discovered
among his court. Knox writes —

" Many times when he hears of the misde-
meanours of some of his nobles, he not only
executes them, but severely punisheth the women,
and he hath so many spies, that there is but little
done which he knows not of; and often he gives
command to expel all the women out of the city,
not one to remain ; but, by little and little, when
they think his wrath is aj^peased, they do creep in
again."

Rajah Singha possessed, in common with most
satraps of the East, an inordinate fondness for
dress and jewels, delighting to adorn his person
with gaudy-coloured raiment, and ornaments stud-
ded with jewels. History affirms that Rajah
Singha exhorted his son and successor, Wimala
Dharma Suriya the Second, on his death-bed, to
remain at peace with the Dutch, and allow them
to retain possession of their territories; and, being
of a tranquil temperament, he followed his father's
counsel ; consequently, during his reign, there are
no accounts of a peculiarly interesting character.

In 1707, Wimala Dharma Suriya died, and was
succeeded by his sou, Narendra Singha. The
following year the Dutch obtained possession of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 261

the island of Java, and, at the commencement of
1709, they banished the ex-king of Java, Susasan
Mang Burat Mas, with his family and attendants,
to Ceylon. There were many followers of this
liing who shared his exile, and thus it was that
the Malays became residents in the island, where,
as a natural result, they multiplied considerably.

In 1721, the queen of Kandy died, and the
Dutch sent an embassy to Kandy to condole with
the king, Narendra Singha, upon that event — the
Dutch, preserving all external tokens of respect
for the king of Kandy, who allowed them to re-
main in peaceable possession of their dominions
in Ceylon. The letter of condolence sent by go-
vernor Rumph was to this effect — " To implore
the Almighty to comfort his Majesty on the trying
occasion of the demise of the high-born, excellent,
and all-accomplished queen."

In 1723, some Javanese princes and chiefs,
forty-four in number, that had revolted against
the Dutch at Batavia, were banished to Ceylon,
and thus more Malays were introduced into the
island by the Dutch.

In 1729, Governor Vuyst (governor of Colombo)
made an attempt to render himself an independent
sovereign, and in the prosecution of that scheme
had recourse to the most atrocious cruelties, and

262 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

perpetrated crimes of the blackest dye. He was
at last taken prisoner by his countrymen and sent
to Batavia, tried, and convicted of high treason to
his country, and was sentenced to be broken alive
upon the wheel, his body to be quartered, and
then to be burned to ashes, and those ashes to be
collected and cast into the sea. It is revolting to
humanity to read these loathsome details, savour-
ing of the ages of barbarism, and, though V^uyst
met a merited reward for his crimes, in having
had sentence of death executed on his person —
still breaking alive on the wheel, quartering the
body, throwing the ashes into the sea, refusing
them Christian burial, is almost past credence, as
having occurred in the eighteenth century, and
casts a stigma of disgrace upon the nation that
would sanction torturing the living body, or wreak-
ing vengeance on senseless remains.

In 1739, Narendra Singha died without issue,
and was succeeded by his brother-in-law, Sreewi-
jaya Rajah Singha. History says that the cha-
racter of Narendra Singha was vile : he was most
licentious, indulging his passions without restraint;
prone to anger, he insulted his nobles, and was on
the brink of losing his crown, through a rebellion
which these injured nobles headed. Notwith-
standing all this, he reigned two- and- thirty years,

6

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 263

and during this period his Dutch allies retained
peaceable possession, and employed the advan-
tage offered to increase their maritime dominions.

During the reigns of the last two Kandian
kings, the ordinances of the Buddhist religion
had been considerably neglected, the priests
having become lax and careless in the adminis-
tration of the various rites thereof; and, in 1745,
Sreevvijaj^a Rajah Singha sent a deputation of
his chiefs to Siam, to request that priests might
be allowed to come to Kandy, to restore the
neglected ordinances of Buddha. In compliance
with this request, several npasampada, or high
priests, returned with the chiefs, who set to work
vigorously, immediately on their arrival, to fulfil
the mission which had brought them from Siam.
It appears that Sreewijaya Rajah Singha devoted
the principal portion of his time to purify and
restore the religion of the state, and Buddhism
under this monarch was restored to all its former
grandeur.

During this reign, hostilities were renewed
between the Dutch and Kandians ; and, although
some of the maritime provinces were taken by
the latter, they were eventually retaken by the
Dutch; and, in 1747, Sreewijaya Rajah Singha
died, and was succeeded by his brother-in-law.

264 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Kirtisree Rajah Singha, who, in 1750, sent
another deputation of chiefs to Siam, to pro-
cure priests of Buddha; and, in 1753, these
chiefs returned to Ceylon, accompanied by some
Siamese priests of the highest rank, and Welle-
wike, the chief pinest, was placed at the head
of the Buddhist establishment in the island,
under the title of Sanga Rajah.

In the year 1761, the violent measures adopted
against the natives by governor Screuder, occa-
sioned an insurrection on the western coast; the
Kandians aided the insurgents against the Dutch,
and thereby involved themselves in fresh hostili-
ties, (for there had been for a short period a cessa-
tion,) and skirmishes were constantly carried on
until the following year, when the Dutch made
themselves masters of Kandy, Matele, Doom-
bera, and Wallapana; but Kirtisree Rajah Singha
retook this portion of the kingdom, after the
Dutch had held possession for nine months, and
the slaughter that ensued is hideous to read of.

From this period, desultory warfare was carried
on between the contending parties, until the
Dutch appear to have obtained the advantage ;
as, in 1766, a new treaty was entered into between
the Kandian monarch and the Dutch, which en-
sured to the latter the unmolested possession of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 265

all the places on the sea coast ; and the
Dutch now might look upon themselves as con-
querors, having brought the eastern potentate
under subjection, as by this treaty they dictated
the articles which were agreed to by Kirtisree
Rajah Singha, and one of these was, that the
various humiliating ceremonies which were ex-
acted by the king, when an envoy from the
Dutch went to his court, were to be for the future
entirely dispensed with, and totally abolished.

We must now take a retrospective view of
events, and return to the year 1763, when Mr.
Pybus was sent by the Madras government as
ambassador to the king of Kandy, to assure the
monarch of the friendly feelings of the English
towards him, and the anxiety of the government
to furnish him with the means of carrying on the
war against the Dutch, and offered to enter into
a treaty. National events of importance, and
the stirring incidents of the American war, called
for all the attention and money that our govern-
ment had to bestow, and to this only can be
attributed the non-fulfilment of the treaty entered
into with Kirtisree Rajah Singha ; but the im-
pression produced by this breach of faith, on
the minds of the king and royal family, was

VOL. 1. N

266 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

most prejudicial to the honour and probity of
England.

In 1781, Kirtisree Rajah Singha died, and
was succeeded by his brother Rajadhi Rajah
Singha; and in the following year a fleet, com-
manded by Admiral Sir Edward Hughes, and a
body of troops, headed by Sir Hector Munro,
were dispatched by Lord Macartney, then Go-
vernor of Madras, to Ceylon, to take from the
Dutch their territories in that island ; and our
troops took possession of Trincomalee, which
the French re-took for the Dutch in the August
of the same year, during the absence of Admiral
Sir Edward Hughes, who had sailed for Madras
to have some necessary repairs performed to his
ships. Mr. Hugh Boyd had been sent with
the expedition as ambassador to the king of
Kandy, and left Trincomalee in February, but
did not reach Kandy until the beginning of
March, owing to the badness of the roads; for,
although Trincomalee is less than 180 miles
from Kandy, the route was a most tedious and
perplexing one, Mr. Boyd and his companions
having at times to force their way through a
dense forest, or jungle. Previously to quitting
Trincomalee, the following letter was despatched

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 267

by Mr. Hugh Boyd to Rajadhi Rajah Siu-
gha:* —

" To the king of Kandy, &c.

"I have the honour of acquamting your high-
ness, that I am appointed ambassador to your
Highness, Durbar, by His Excellency the Right
Hon. Lord Macartney, the Governor, and the
President of Madras; and that I am charged with
a letter to your highness, from the governor, in
order to explain to you their favourable sentiments,
and assure you of their friendship. I suppose your
highness has already heard of the great successes
of the English against their enemies, particularly
the Dutch, whom they have now driven entirely
from the coast of Coromandel, having taken from
them their last settlement, Negapatam.

"To carry on the victories of the English
against the Dutch, Vice-admiral Sir Edward
Hughes, commander in-chief of the king of Eng-
land's ship and marine forces in India, is now
arrived with the fleet and force under his command
at Trincomalee, in conjunction with the troops of
the English East India Company. He has alread}^
taken one of their forts from the Dutch, called
Trincomalee Fort, with many prisoners, and with-

=;= This letter will be foimcl in the " Miscellaneous Works
of Hugh Boyd," vol. II.

N 2

268 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

out opposition ; and he is proceeding with vigour,
and with certainty of equal success against their
only other fort, called Ostendburgh, which must
also yield to the great superiority of the British
arms.

" This will certainly have been effected long
before your highness can have received this let-
ter. But in the character with which I have the
honour of being invested, as ambassador to your
highness, I am desirous to take the earliest op-
portunity in ti'ansmitting to you these happy
particulars, to assure you that it is only against
their enemies, the Dutch, that the arms of the
English are directed, and that the highest respect
and attention will be shown your highness's rights
and dignity, and that your subjects will be treated
wath the utmost kindness and friendship, accord-
ing to a declaration which his excellency, Sir
Edward Hughes, admiral and commander-in-
chief, has ah-eady published. I am happy in
communicating these matters to your highness,
not doubting that it will give you pleasure to
hear of the success and power of your friends.

" As many more English ships and troops are
expected soon to be here, and, as some great
further operations will probably be soon carried
on by them for the destruction of their enemies,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 269

and the advantage of their friends, I am ordered
by his excellency, the Governor of Madras, to
communicate to your highness, as soon as pos-
sible, the letter from him, which I have the
honour of being charged with.

" I shall be happy, therefore, to deliver it to
your highness in person, with every explanation
and friendly assurance which you can desire, as
soon as I shall know, in reply to this, that you
have sent proper persons to conduct me thither ;
and this I hope your highness will be pleased to
do immediately, as there ought to be no delay in
transactions of so much importance,

" I am also charged with a letter to your high-
ness, from his Highness Walah Jah, Nabob of
the Carnatic, which I shall be happy to deliver
to you. T only wait to have the honour of
hearing from your highness, as I have desired ;
I shall then immediately proceed to enter on all
these important matters, on the most friendly and
satisfactory ground to your highness.
(Signed)

" Hugh Boyd,"

Upon the arrival of our ambassador at Kandy,
he met with innumerable delays, and was received
with distrust and suspicion by the Kandian court ;
the natural result of our former breach of faith.

;i70 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

and which but ill-accorded with the British
character for probity. " It is now twenty years
since your ambassador arrived here, while we
waged war with our Dutch enemies : we replied
frankly, and accepted cheerfully your offered and
promised aid ; but since your envoy left, not a
breath have we heard of your offered aid, nor
promised assistance. As you are now at war, in
your turn, with the Dutch nation, and are desirous
to injure them, and obtain their possessions, you
come to us, professing that it is only for our benefit
that you desire to force them to quit our kingdom.
We doubt the sincerity of your nation, as we have
ever met with treachery from Europeans."

Our ambassador made excuses for the non-
fulfilment of the former treaty, and referred to the
high character borne by England for probity and
truth ; but all his efforts proved abortive, and he
quitted Kandy the latter end of March, without
having accomplished either of the objects of his
mission — namely, to make a treaty, and form an
alliance with the king of Kandy — and for some
years we left the Kandians and Dutch in undis-
turbed possession of Ceylon.

In the year 1785, Governor Vander Graaff first
introduced paper currency into Ceylon ; and, in
1789, the same governor caused a census to be

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 271

taken of all the inhabitants of the maritime dis-
tricts, subject to the Dutch East India Company ;
and the statistical returns gave eight hundred and
seventeen thousand inhabitants, of both sexes,
and of all ages.

In the year 1795, the union of Holland with
France took place, and war was declared by us ;
and Colonel, afterwards General Stewart, was sent
by the Governor of Madras, with a large force, to
reduce Trincomalee, to which he laid siege, and,
after the lapse of little more than three weeks, the
fort was surrendered by the Dutch commander, as
our troops were preparing to storm it. In the
September following of that year, Jaftha was taken
by the same general ; Colpentyn was surrendered
to the British forces, under the command of
Colonel Bowser, on the 5th of November ; and
General Stewart shorly afterwards took Negombo.
Success now followed the British arms in Ceylon,
and General Stewart resolved upon attacking
Colombo, the seat of government then as well as
now, and marched for that place with his
Majesty's 52nd, 73rd, and 77th regiments, ac-
companied by three battalions of Native Infantry,
and some Bengal Artillery.

The route to Colombo lay through dense jungle,
and over rivers swollen by the late rains ; but no

272 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

auibush was laid by the Dutch to obstruct the
progress of our troops, and they reached the river
Kelany (about four miles from the Fort of Co-
lombo), which was defended by a strong fort, and
there halted to await the expected coming of the
Dutch troops. At the conclusion of the second
day, intelligence reached them that tHe guns were
dismantled and spiked, and that the troops had
abandoned the fort, and retreated to Colombo.
Our men crossed the river with great caution, fear-
ing surprise, but no ambuscade had been laid.
Our encampment was then formed, the siege of
Colombo planned, and our soldiers immediately
afterwards marched for the fort, expecting a strong
resistance to be made by the Dutch ; but to the
astonishment both of General Stewart and the
troops which he commanded, the only attempt
to defend Colombo was made by a body of Malays,
headed by a French ofl&cer, who were sent to meet
them, but quickly retreated, and very shortly after
Colombo surrendered, by capitulation, to the
British forces, who were commanded by General
Stewart and Captain Gardiner, R. N. Within a
short period, the whole of the forts and posses-
sions in the island belonging to the Dutch were
delivered up to our troops.

We should not have found Ceylon so facile a

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 273

conquest, had it not been for the want of disci-
pline and subordination found amongst the Dutch
troops — the men refusing to obey their officers'
orders, and the officers ahnost devoid of bravery or
energy to defend their country's rights. According
to " Percival's Ceylon," p. 92—" The Dutch force
consisted of two battalions of Hollanders, the
French Regiment of Wirtemberg, with some
native troops, forming in all a force equal to that
of the invaders."

In taking leave of the Dutch as rulers in Ceylon,
we give the names of those who were sent there as
governors. The first, in 1640, was W. J. Koster,
who took Galle ; J. Thysz, J. Matsuyher, J. Van
Kiltenstein, A. Vander Meyden, R. Van Goens, J.
Hustaur, L. Van Peil, T. Van Rhee, P. De Rhoo,
G. De Heer, C. J. Simonsy, N. Becher, T. A.
Rumph, A. Moll, J. Hertenberg, J. P. Schagen,
P. Vuyst, S. Versluzs, G. Wontersz, J. C. Pielaat?
D. V. Domburg, J. Maccara, Baron Von Imhoff,
W. M. Bruininch, D. Ovcrpeck, W. M. Bruin-
inch, D. Overpeck, J. V. S. Von Galnesse, G. Van
Vreeland, J. De Joug, J. G. Saton, J. Schrender,
Baron Van Eck, A. Mooyart, J. W. Falck, W. J.
Van der Graaff, J. G. Van Angelbeech, under
whom Colombo and the entire possessions of the
Dutch were delivered over to the British.

N 5

27-1 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Under the Dutch, their own mode of worship
v^as introduced into Ceylon, and there were many
professed converts among the Cingalese. This
arose from a regulation of the Dutch, which pro-
hibited any native from holding an office, however
humble, under their government, unless he pro-
fessed to belong to their church^ The Dutch en-

covn'aged agriculture to a great extent, and intro-
duced the cultivation of coffee, pepper, cardamons,
and cinnamon. It was under Governor Falck that
the latter shrub was JiJ'sl cultivated. The pearl-
fisheries were also lucrative and productive, under
their management ; consequently, it must have
been a national loss of no trivial nature, when so
profitable and promising a settlement was wrested
from them by the British.

We shall wind up our summary by glancing at
the effect produced upon the native character by
the line of conduct pursued by the Dutch, who
acted as if they believed that their responsibility
as Christians and enlightened men, commenced
and terminated by forcing nominal religion upon
the natives — by making an external avowal of
Christianity the only stepping-stone to patronage,
or employment under government; and they
neglected no opportunity or means whereby wealth
could be amassed. Their public policy and private

OEYLOxX AND THE CINGALESE. 275

enterprise began and ended with the same goal in
view — namely, the acquirement of riches. Thus
the English commenced their rule in Ceylon,
having the impressions to eradicate which had
been produced upon the minds of the Cingalese,
through the sufferings they had experienced under
the military and religious oppression of the Por-
tuguese, and no less oppressive grasping and reli-
gious despotism of their Dutch successors.

These fearful examples, set by professing
Christians, have been too forcibly stamped upon
the feeble and flexible characters of the natives ;
and European vices have thus become engrafted
upon the effeminate, pusillanimous dispositions of
the Cingalese who inhabit the lowland and mari-
time districts, thus forming a character of the
most despicable description.

We subjoin the following extract from " Phila-
lethe's History of Ceylon," in support of our
previously-expressed views and sentiments : —

" The Portuguese were under the influence of a
sentiment of bigotry, which, when it becomes a
predominant feeling in the human heart, equally
disregards the suggestions of caution, admonitions
of prudence, and the higher considerations of
humanity. It is a blind impulse, and it has all
the effect of blindness, both visual and mental ;

270 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

in the strange deviations which it causes from the
straight path of virtue and truth, and consequently
of the best policy, and most stable interest. The
Dutch did not bend before the grim Moloch of
rt>ligious bigotry; but cent, per cent, was their
faith, gold was their object, and Mammon was
their god. But the idol of the Dutch is as un-
favourable to the growth of the loftier virtues, and
to all that tends to humanize the exercise of power,
as that of the Portuguese. Avarice is a cold, cal-
culating feeling, and where it totally pervades the
bosom, absorbing the affections, and concentrating
the desires in a single object, it renders the heart
as impenetrable as a stone to those moral con-
siderations which are more particularly associated
with a benevolent regard for the happiness of
those who are placed in subjection to our will, or
within the sphere of our influence. The insensate
avarice of the Dutch proved as unfavourable to
the happiness of the people of Ceylon, as the
enthusiastic bigotry of the Portuguese."

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 277

CHAPTER XL

Kaudian character — Personal appearance — Cingalese of the
lowlands — Character of the women — Native government —
King's officers — Customs — Mode of smelting ii-on — British
rnle from 1795 to 1805 — Governor Nortli — First English
governor — Supreme Court of Judicature established —
Kandian war — Fearful massacre of British troops —
Dastardly and disgraceful conduct of Major Davie —
Exti'aordinary escape of two soldiers — Suimnary ofpoli
tical events — ^False policy of General Macdowall — Noble
conduct of Captain Nouradeen — Bravery of Major John-
son— Sir Thomas Maitland succeeds the Honourable
Frederick North — The judicious rule of Governor North.

Before we enter upon the history of Ceylon
under the British, as the subjugation of Kandy
forms a prominent feature of our rule, we will give
a sketch of the character of the people, and the
government of that nation under the dominion of

278 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

their own sovereigns and rulers. All those
authors who have written upon Ceylon remark,
with great justice, the difference of character that
is observable between the inhabitants of the moun-
tainous and those of the lowlands and maritime
districts It is an insult to a Kandian to call him
a Cingalese, as the Kandians hold the latter in
contempt. The Kandians term only the inhabit-
ants of the lowlands, Cingalese ; and the natives
of the latter, when speaking of the former, in-
variably make the same distinction — calling them
Kandians, and not Cingalese.

The Kandians are a purer race, possessing much
nobility of character — are daring, courageous, and
generous; whilst the Cingalese are cowardly, ser-
vile, and mean : and the nobles of Kandy assert
(and it was stated to us by a Kandian chief of
high rank, and the highest caste) that the vices of
lying and thieving, now so fearfully prevalent in
Ceylon, were introduced into the Kandian pro-
vinces by the Cingalese, who had acquired these
intolerably despicable vices from intercourse with
the Portuguese and Dutch. Robert Knox, who
passed twenty years in captivity at Kandy, thus
writes of them, in the seventeenth century : —

" Of all the vices, they are least addicted to
stealing, the which they do exceedingly hale and

=4

CINGALESK MAN.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 279

abhor ; so that there are but few robberies com-
mitted amongst them. They do much extol and
commend chastity, temperance, truth in words
and actions ; and confess that it is out of weak-
ness and infirmity that they cannot practise the
same, acknowledging that the contrary vices are
to be abhorred."

After making this statement, he gives the fol-
lowing one, which is somewhat contradictory, as
regards their propensity to lying. But great al-
lowance must be made for the position in which
Knox was placed ; as his protracted captivity for
so long a period (during which time he had re-
ceived many promises relative to his release)
would not predispose him to place much reliance
on their veracity, or enable him to give an unpre-
judiced opinion as to the national character. Not-
withstanding, there is much truth to be found in
the succeeding quotation, which gives, on the
whole, a fair estimate of the Kandian character: —

" In understanding, quick and apprehensive ;
in design, subtle and crafty ; in discourse, cour-
teous, but full of flatteries ; naturally inclined to
temperance, both in meat and drink, but not
chastity ; near and provident in their families —
commending good husbandry ; in their disposi-
tions, not passionate — neither hard to be recon-

280 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

ciled when angry ; in their promises very un-
faithful— approving lying in themselves, but dis-
liking it in others; delighting in sloth — defeiTing
labour till urgent necessity compel them; neat
in apparel; nice in eating,, and not much given to
slee]3."

For the bravery, which we deem inherent in the
Kandians, and their love of country, no better proof
can be offered than the determined, vigorous, and
protracted resistance opposed to the attempted
subjugation of their country by the Portuguese,
Dutch, and British. And this dislike to the im-
posed yoke of a foreign power exists to no small
extent at this moment, as the recent insurrection
proved ; whilst the Cingalese have tamely sub-
mitted to foreign rule for more than a century and
a half. The difference of person apparent in the
Kandians and Cingalese, is as marked as their
mental dissimilitude. The bearing of the Kan-
dian is haughty and erect ; the complexion, bright
bronze, or brown; the eye large — meeting the
observer's fixedly and undauntedly ; the brow
high — nose, well formed and prominent ; and the
expression of the face intelligent. While, on the
contrary, the deportment of the Cingalese is ser-
vile and crouching; their complexion of a yellower
brown ; the eye, although of good size, seldom fully

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 281

opens, and endeavours to avoid looking fixedly on
the observer ; the brow low , the nose less promi-
nent, and not so well formed, as that of the Kan-
dian ; and the expression of the countenance has
a cliaracter of servile, low cunning.

Although it is affirmed by writers that the Kan-
dians and Cingalese are both descended from the
same parent stock, we disagree with them mate-
rially, as the Kandians have all the distinctive
marks of a nobler race, and purer blood — being,
in our opinion, the offspring of Malabars, who
had intermarried with the Veddahs, or aborigines
of Ceylon, whose blood has remained pure, owing
to non-admixture with foreign conquerors ; as
Kandy remained a free, warlike, and independent
state long after the lowlands had experienced the
yoke of numerous conquerors, of various nations:
whilst the Cingalese are the descendants of the
followers of the Indian King, Wijeya, who con-
quered Ceylon long anterior to the Christian era.
But the latter race has deteriorated, both physi-
cally and mentally, by constant admixture with
the various tribes and nations who have con-
quered, colonized, or visited the lowlands and
maritime districts.

Although Buddhism inculcates the practice of
chastity and continence more than any other

282 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

heathen religion, yet in no part of Asia is the
observance of these virtues less practised than by
the followers of Buddha, and more especially in
Ceylon, where the want of chastity in woman,
which pervades all classes, beginning with the
highest and descending to the lowest caste, is
lamentable in the extreme. This appears to have
been a national failing, from the earliest records
of the island ; but in a work intended for general
perusal it would be unadvisable to quote verbatim
et seriatim from Knox on this topic, who expa-
tiates fully and strongly on the total disregard
evinced by the women for chastity. We shall,
therefore, confine ourselves to the following ex-
tract from that author : —

" Whilst a woman would flee from the contact
of a man of a lower caste than herself, so would
she desire and seek it most anxiously with one of
her own caste, or of a higher one."

At this time it is the crying sin of the natives,
even among women professiug Christianity ; and
many murders arise from the excited jealousy of
husbands and lovers, who come unexpectedly,
and find a paramour with the women ; when the
ever-ready knife, or any other weapon that is near,
is seized hold of, and bloodshed ensues.

The government of Kandy was an absolute and

sg^. 'S^^ '"^

CINGALESE WOMAN.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 283

despotic one, the king having unlimited power
over the lives and property of his subjects : in
fact, the Kandian nation being the slaves of the
monarch — slavery was permitted, and practised
to a great extent throughout the kingdom. But
the king was not only lord paramount of the soil,
the whole produce of which he could claim, if it
pleased him so to do ; but he claimed and en-
forced equal ownership over the persons of the
cultivators.

The men of the next rank to the monarch were
the two adikars, or prime ministers ; and these
adikars also acted as judges, and to them an ap-
peal could be made, should a suitor I'eel dissa-
tisfied with the decision of the governor of his
province — and from the adikar a final appeal lay
to the king in person ; but the king reserved to
himself the power of inflicting capital punishment,
and human life was constantly sacrificed in the
most wanton manner, and on the most puerile
occasions. These adikars were appointed by,
and held office during the king's pleasure. After
the adikars came the dissaaves, or governors of
provinces. A certain number of this body were
appointed to the command of the king's troops ;
and these held a superior rank to their fellows,
whose business it was to receive and pay into the

284 CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE.

royal treasury the tribute to the king, and maiu-
tain peace and order in their provinces. The dis-
saaves, like the adikars, received their appointment
from the king, who would disgrace them, depriv-
ing them of their offices, and putting them to
death, or torturing them, as caprice dictated.

The next in rank and power were the ratrama-
hatmeers, who acted as deputies to those dissaaves,
who commanded the king's guards, or troops, by
preserving proper order in their provinces during
the disaaves' necessary absence from their dis-
tricts, whilst on duty at court. Under these ra-
tramahatmeers were many inferior officers, who
obtained their posts either by bribery or from the
patronage bestowed by their superior. When the
dissaave, or ratramahatmeer, travelled through his
province, to administer justice, he was attended
by the whole of his inferior officers. Before the
dissaave, or ratramahatmeer, was borne a long
whip made from the fibres of the talipot palm,
which was the emblem of their official rank, and
also used by them as an implement of punish-
ment. This whip was constantly kept in motion
when borne before these officials ; and the sound
produced served to warn all travellers or passers-by
to clear the road, and leave a free passage, and also
to apprize those who had complaints or charges to

RATRAM AHATMEER .

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 285

prefer, that the dissaave, or ratramahatmeer, was
at hand.

AVhen a complaint had been substantiated,
which, in the estimation of the official, called for
corporal punishment, the criminal was straight-
way stripped, tied to the first tree, and flogged
with the whip which a short time previously had
given notice of the judge's approach. This busi-
ness concluded, the dissaave would resume his
way, to enact the same scene elsewhere. Fines,
imprisonment, and torture were the other punish-
ments inflicted by the dissaaves and ratramahat-
meers, in the course of these periodical visita-
tions, which were conducted with great state,
ceremony, and parade ; and were also very lucra-
tive, as the dissaaves and ratramahatmeers were
bribed to decide in the briber's favour, and con-
sequently whoever could or would administer the
largest bribe almost invariably gained his suit.
But on the reverse of this pleasant picture stood
a despotic monarch, who, from the merest whim,
would take from them their rank and wealth.
Knox, after referring to the above facts, writes : —

" But there is something came after, that makes
all the honour and wealth of these great courtiers
not at all desirable — and that is, that they are
so obnoxious to the king's displeasure, which is

286 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

SO customary, that it is no disgrace for a iioble-
maii to liave been in chains — nay, and in llie
common gaol, too ; and tlie great men, too, are
so ready, when the king con)mands, to lay hold
on one another, as he to command them, and
glad to have the honour to be the king's execu-
tioners, hoping to have the place of the exe-
cuted."

In the foregoing quotation is found a summary
of the uncertain tenure of place and power, when
held from or under a despotic monarch, who even
dictated what description of dwelling his subjects
were to build or inhabit. It may appear almost
paradoxical that a nation should have suffered
one man to tyrannize over their persons, actions,
and properties, to the extent which the Kandians
permitted under their own kings, and should yet
rebel against the mild rule of the British govern-
ment But such is the anomaly presented by
human nature, that we will cheerfully and wil-
lingly endure what we voluntarily submit to, or
our forefathers have borne before us, however
intolerable it may appear to others ; whilst the
su]iposition or knowledge that we are to be forced
into a particular line of action, dictated bv a
novel or foreign power, who rules with its own
laws, although tlie adiiiinistration of those laws

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 287

may be equitable, and for our benefit, produces
a feeling which causes us to consider ourselves
aggrieved ; and we rebel against the foreign yoke
This is not only ti national feeling predominant
amongst the Kaudians, but will be found in every
quarter of the globe, and is applicable to the in-
habitants of every country.

Knox, alter describing the various modes
adopted for building their dwellings, says : — •

" For they are not pennilted to build their
houses above one story high ; neither may they
cover them witli tiles, nor whiten their walls with
lime ; but there is a clay which is as white, and
that they use sometimes. The poorest sort have
not above one room in their houses — few above
two, unless they be great men ; neither doth the
king allow them to build better. The great
people have handsome and commodious houses.
They have commonly two buildings — one oppo-
site the other, joined together on each side with
a wall, which makes a square court-yard in the
middle. Round about against the walls of their
house, are banks of clay to sit upon. Their
slaves and servants dwell round about without,
in other houses, with their wives and children."

This author speaks of the ancient remains of
grandeur which were found in Kandy, and these

288 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

will be noticed in a chapter devoted to the anti-
quities of Ceylon. In writing of their cultivation
of rice, the staple commodity of food for the
nation, he tells us that their ploughs consisted of
" a piece of wood, shod with iron [these primitive
ploughs are used in the interior at the present
day, and to them are yoked buffaloes, or bulloclis]
proper for the country." He describes minutely
the Oriental custom of treading out the grain from
the husli, " and this is a far quicker and easier
way than threshing ; at reaping also they are
excellent good, just after the English manner."
He also stales, " their rents were brought to the
king thrice in each year, and were generally paid
in the produce of the soil, and not in money."
Besides these, however, whatsoever is wanted in
" the king's house, and they have it, they must,
upon the king's order, bring it "

Knox describes the state of learning in the
Kandian dominions, to have been in a fearftil
slate of degradation, to what it had been in
former times ; and it is certain that for centuries,
the inhabitants of Ceylon had been retrograding
in learning, arts, and sciences, more particularly
since the Portuguese and Dutch had obtained a
footing in the island, "Their learning," says
Knox, " is but small; all they ordinarily learn is,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 289

to read and write, but it is no shame to a man
if he can do neither — nor have they any schools
wherein they might be instructed in these or any
other arts." The Kandians polished the precious
stones found in their dominions by a species of
grinding stone, still in use among them, and
which is very similar to an European one. They
smelted the gold found in their rivers, in furnaces,
formed of a species of white clay, found inland,
and they fashioned the precious metal into orna-
ments for the head, nose, ankles, fingers, and
toes ; and in the gold were frequently set precious
stones and gems. We subtract the succeeding
lines from Knox, as giving a most accurate and
interesting account of the mode adopted by the
Kandians to obtain iron from the ore. He com-
mences by saying, that the ore was found
throughout the country, and that it generally lay
about five or six feet below the surface of the
earth : —

" First they take these stones and lay them in
a heap, and burn them with wood, which makes
them softer and fitter for the furnace. When
they have so done, they have a kind of furnace,
made with a white sort of clay, wherein they put
a quantity of charcoal ; there is a back to the
furnace, behind which the man stands that blows.

VOL. I. o

290 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Behind the furnace they have two logs of wood
placed fast in the ground, hollow at the top like
two pots ; upon the mouths of these two pieces
of hollow wood they tie a piece of deer's skin, on
each part a piece, with a small hole, as big as a
man's finger, in each skin. In the middle of each
skin, a little beside the holes, are two strings,
tied fast to as many sticks stuck in the ground,
like a spring, bending like a bow — this pulls the
skin upwards."

He then describes minutely the process of
blowing, and continues : —

" As the stones are thus burning, the dross that
is in them melts, and runs out at the bottom,
where there is a slanting hole made for the pur-
pose. Out of this hole runs the dross-like streams
of fire, and the iron remains behind, which, when
it is purified as they think enough, they drive
through the same slanting hole ; then they give
it a chop half way through, and so fling it into
the water : they so chop it that it may be seen
that it is good iron, for the satisfaction of those
who are minded to buy."

The state of religion observable among tlie
Kandians, anterior to, at the period of, and sub-
sequent to Knox's captivity, will be noticed here-
after ; and we will fur the present bid adieu to

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 291

the ancient Kandians, and resume our history
subsecutively, from taking possession of the
Dutch settlements in Ceylon by the British, in
1796.

Mr. Andrews was sent as ambassador to the
Kandian court, by the Madras government, to
obtain Rajah Siugha's ratification to the preli-
minary treaty, and to negotiate a definitive one
on more enlarged principles, by which the Kan-
dian nation was to have enjoyed privileges and
advantages which they had not possessed in tran-
quillity for more than two centuries. Ten armed
vessels were to have been placed at the king's
service, entirely free from our superintendence,
to carry on foreign and home trade ; and the
seways, or salt-marshes at Putlara, then most
profitable, and which had been in the possession
of the Dutch, from whom they had passed into
our hands, were to have been given up to Rajadhi
Rajah Singha. Our ambassador could not suc-
ceed in bringing matters to a termination, as the
king of Kaudy required various alterations to be
made in the proposed treaty, to which Mr.
Andrews was not authorized to accede.

The first pearl-fishery, under our government,
took place during this jear, and yielded upwards
of sixty thousand pounds. The proceeds of the

o 2

292 CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE.

several fisheries under ihe Dutch and English
will be given in a porlion of this work devoted to
the produce of Ceylon.

In the year 1797, an insurrection was caused
by the employment of Malabar Duboshes, or col-
lectors of the revenue and other duties ; these
offices had been formerly filled by the Cingalese
aratchys, or headmen, but the Madras governmeht
had displaced them, substituting natives of the
Malabar coast in their stead. These trivial dis-
turbances were speedily quelled, and entirely sub-
sided, when the Cingalese were reinstated in their
official appointments.

The king of Kandy, during this year, made
overtures to us for a renewal of the negocialion,
and conclusion of ihe treaty ; but, before a defini-
tive arrangement v\ as entered into, Rajadhi Rajah
Singha died, after a tolerably tranquil reign of
seventeen years. Although he had five legitiniaie
wives or queens, as well as concubines, he did
not leave any male issue ; and he bore the cha-
racter of an indolent, voluptuous man, " addicted
lo love and poetry, and to nothing else, and who
ruled his subjects with an easy yoke." The fol-
lowing is the personal description of Rajadhi
Rcijah Singha, given by Boyd in his " Miscella-
neous Works :'" —

10

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. "293

" He is about thirty-six, or thirty-seven years
of age, of a grand majestic appearance, a very
large man, and very black, but of an open, intelli-
gent countenance, as I found afterwards on a
nearer approach. On the whole, his figure and
attitude put me in mind of our Harry the Eighth.
He wore a large crown, which is a very important
distinction from the other princes of the East."

In the following year, 1798, Ceylon was made
a King's Colony, and the Hon. Frederick North,
afterwards Earl of Guilford, and a worthy suc-
cessor to his learned and philanthropic progenitor,
was appointed governor of the island, and arrived
there in the month of October.

Historians differ, as to whether it was a nephew
of one of the queens, or a son of a sister of one of
the concubines of the late king, that Pilimi Ta-
lawe, the first adikar or prime minister, raised to
the throne of Kandy, under the title of Sri Wik-
rama Rajah Singha, to the exclusion of the royal
family ; as Prince Mootoo Sawme, the chief or
first queen's brother, was the legitimate heir to
the crown. This step was taken by Pilimi Talavve
to further his own ambitious views, as Sri Wik-
rama was but an automaton on the throne, whose
actions were directed by the first adikar, Pilimi
Talawe, who imprisoned the chief queen of the

294 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

late monarch Rajadhi, and several relatives of the
royal family ; whilst Prince Mootoo Savvme, with
his adherents and followers, made their escape
from Kandy, and placed themselves under the
protection of the British government at Colombo.
During the following year, the importation of
slaves was prohibited, and torture and barbarous
modes of punishment abolished in our possessions
in Ceylon. In the month of February, Governor
North granted an interview to Pilimi Talawe, and
the prime minister appears to have been most cau-
tious in his mode of proceeding with our govern-
ment, as this interview was merely a complimen-
tary one ; but in a subsecutive one, in September,
he offered to assassinate the monarch, Sri Wik-
rama, whom he had raised to that dignity, if the
English would assist him to ascend the throne,
that he, Pilimi Talawe, would govern Kandy as
the English would dictate. This ignominious
proposition was rejected in the manner it merited,
and the governor made Pilimi Talawe understand,
that neither the monarch, nor nation, which he had
the honour to represent, either aided or abetted mur-
der, or assassins ; but, undaunted by this prompt
and determined refusal of Governor North to aid
him in his criminally nefarious project, Pilimi
Talawe made many after-communications of the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 295

same nature, which were rejected with the scorn
and contumeliousness they merited.

The first English seminary was established at
Colombo, for the instruction of natives within the
year; thus we find that immediately after Mr.
North held the reins of government, and when
naturally in a new colony, there were many im-
portant political, and commercial subjects to
engross the governor's attention and time ; that
gentleman had been employing his leisure hours
in endeavouring to ameliorate the suflferings, and
improve the condition of his sable fellow-man.
Governor North abolished the importation of
slaves, torture and barbarous modes of punish-
ment, and established a seminary for the instruc-
tion of the ignorant and benighted natives, and
that within the space of twelve months. Noble
conduct of this nature needs no comment or praise,
and each one in reading this may apply the fol-
lowing text to himself, " Go and do thou like-
wise."

In the following year, 1800, Governor North
agreed to send an ambassador to the king of
Kandy, as the first adikar, Pilimi l^alawc, had
made overtures of an honourable nature, in the
name of Sri Wikrama, in his ofllicial capacity of
prime-minister. The Rev. Mr. Cordiner writes : —

296 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

" In order to elude the arts of the adikar, the
governor promised that Major-General Macdowall
should be sent as ambassador, if the consent of
the liing were previously obtained to his carrying
with him a sufficient military force to maintain
his independence. It was at the same time pro-
posed, that if the king should approve of it, he
should transport his person and his court for
greater safety to the British territories, there to
enjoy all his royal rights, and to depute to Pilimi
Talawe, the adikar, the exercise of his power in
Kandy."

The king of Kandy consented to the requisition,
and General Macdowall started for Kandy on his
embassy, escorted " by the light company, and
four battalions of his Majesty's 19lh foot, five
companies of the second battalion of the 6th regi-
ment of coast sepoys, five companies of the Malay
regiment, a detachment of the Bengal artillery,
with four six-pounders and two howitzers." Now,
the utility of the caution evinced by Governor
North in sending an ambassador, with a powerful
escort, was displayed, as on the road the deputa-
tion met with opposition from the natives, and
several skirmishes resulted, not without suspicion
that Pilimi Talawe had secretly instigated the
rebels to this contumacious mode of proceeding.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 297

Our ambassador and his escort finally reached
Kandy, where a series of lengthened interviews
ensued between Sri Wikrama and General Mac
dowall, which terminated in the general returning
to Colombo, without having been able to effect a
new treaty, or alter the position of affairs then ex-
isting between the British and Kandian govern-
ments.

Events of an historical nature remained in statu
quo during the year 1801, but the following year
was fraught with circumstances of interest, as well
as with those of deep importance in a political
point of view. The Supreme Court of Judicature
was now first established, and vaccine innocula-
lion was introduced. At the beginning of the
year, the king of Kandy sent his second adikar as
ambassador to our government at Colombo, when
a satisfactory treaty was entered into, which
ensured the safety, and permission to carry on
commercial intercourse, to the subjects of the two
powers. Shortly after the new treaty was ratified,
it was violated by the Kandians, who connnitted
the first act of aggression, by plundering some
British subjects, who had purchased Areka-nuts
in the Kandian dominions. Governor North de-
manded that restitution should be made of the
stolen property, or that the parties should be rcim-

o 5

298 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

bursefl to the full value of their merchandize.
This demand Pilimi Talawe, in the name of his
sovereign^ promised to comply with, but postponed
the fulfilment of his promise, and after repeated
demands had been made by our government for
the required compensation, which were constantly
met by puerile evasions, Governor North threat-
ened the king of Kandy with hostile proceedings,
if the demanded and promised restitution was not
forthwith made.

War was declared against the Kandians in
the January of 1803, and General Macdowall, at
the head of a considerable force, marched for
Kandy. These troops consisted of "two incom-
plete companies of Bengal artillery, with the usual
proportion of gun-lascars, two companies of his
Majesty's 19th regiment of foot, the entire of the
51st regiment (625 strong,) one thousand Ceylon
native infantry, one company of the Malay regi-
ment, and a small corps of pioneers." Colonel
Barbut also set out for Trincomalee, commanding
"one company of the Madras artillery, five com-,
panics of the 19th regiment, the greater part of the
Malay regiment, and a necessary proportion of
lascars and pioneers." These divisions, in their
respective marches, did not meet with the slightest
resistance, and, although each had pursued differ-

CEYLON and the CINGALESE. 299

ent routes, arrived almost simultaneously at the
Kandian seat of government, which they found
undefended and deserted, and our large army,
which consisted of more than three thousand men,
took undisturbed possession of Lanka-divas
capital, the palace of which had been fired before
the retreat of the Kandians, and was partially de-
stroyed ; but in some of the apartments were found
" pier glasses, statues, particularly those of Bud'
dha, sets of glass and china-ware, and a few
golden cups adorned with silver filagree." In the
arsenal, or what was used for the store-house for
their warlike weapons, a large quantity of arms
of various descriptions were found by our troops,
and appropriated.

Mootoo Sawme was now proclaimed king by
Governor North, and he was crowned with all
due ceremony at Kandy. This prince was the
legitimate heir to the Kandian throne, as he was
the brother of Rajadhi's chief queen, and he had
placed himself under the protection of the British
government, when Pilimi Talawe placed Sri Wik-
rama on the throne, after the decease of Rajadhi
without male issue. A treaty was ratified by
Governor North and Mootoo Sawrae, to the effect
that the British merchants and soldiers should be
indemnified for losses sustained previously tG> and

300 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

during the war, that a portion of land was to be
given up for the purpose of constructing a road
from Colombo to Trincomalee, that the province
of the Seven Korles, which is a tract along the
western coast, should be made over for ever to the
British, that the king should not form any alliance
without the concurrence of his Britannic Majesty,
and that an European force should be kept in
Kandy, for the preservation of order. To all
these considerations, Mootoo Sawme readily
agreed.

A force was now sent to Hangrenketty, about
sixteen miles from Kandy, commanded by Colonel
Barbut, in pursuit of the fugitive Sri Wikraraa,
which was nearly drawn into an ambuscade,
but, owing to the caution of the colonel, a timely
retreat was effected, although the object for which
the troops were sent remained unaccomplished.
Pilimi Talawe evinced much penetration in the
mode of warfare which he adopted with our troops,
being fully conscious of the inferiority of the
Kandian soldiers if opposed to them in regular
engagement. He harassed them by hovering
about the capital, cutting off supplies, and all
communication between Kandy, Colombo, and
Trincomalee. A detachment of our men were
nearly taken by Pilimi Talawe, which had been

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 30l

sent out to commence a negociation with some
chief in the vicinity, and our soldiers barely
escaped annihilation, and were necessitated to
retreat into Kandy precipitately. A reward of
ten rupees was set on the head of each European,
and five rupees on that of any of the native troops
in the service of the British.

This harassing mode of warfare was beginning
to make inroads on the health of our troops, when
a negotiation was opened with General Mac-
dowall by Pilimi Talawe, The adikar proposed
to surrender the person of the deposed monarch,
Sri Wikrama, into the hands of the British, on the
condition that he, Pilimi Talawe, should have
supreme authority in Kandy, under the title of
Octoan Komarayan, or great and supreme prince,
and that Mootoo Sawme should retire to JafFna-
patam, receiving a pension from the Kandian
government.

Unfortunately for the honour of Britain, this
degrading proposal was acceded to by General
Macdowall, who returned to Colombo, withdraw-
ing a large body of the troops, leaving Kandy
under the command of Major Davie, with a gar-
rison of only one thousand men. Piraili Talawe
having found that his nefarious scheme for obtain-
ing power, aud raising himself to the highest dig-

302 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

nity had succeeded, now resolved upon attempting
to obtain possession of the person of Governor
North, and for this purpose requested a conference
might take place at Dambadiva, about fifty-seven
miles east of Colombo, and which had been a
royal residence. Governor North being most
anxious for peace, and to avoid bloodshed, acqui-
esced most readily to Pilimi Talawe's proposi-
tion.

A day having been fixed upon for the confer-
ence, namely, the 3rd of May, the governor went
to Dambadiva, attended by a numerous suite and
guards, whilst a detachment of three hundred
soldiers met Governor North at that place. These
precautions were necessary to guard against the
treacherous designs of the perfidious Pilimi Ta-
lawe ; and, had it not been for this armed force
accompanying the governor, in all probability he
w^ould have been made prisoner, as the adikar had
a body of armed men awaiting the governor's
arrival, but he liad not any proposal, or fresh ne-
gotiation to enter into. Finding it impossible to
seize the person of Governor North in the face of
his escort, Pilimi Talawe broke up the conference,
after a nominal ratification of the former treaty.

General Macdowall returned to Kandy, and
took the command of the garrison on the J 6th of

CEYLON AND tHE CINGALESE. 303

May, and most unfortunately for the sake of
humanity, and of Great Britain's honour, he was
taken seriously ill, and compelled to leave Kandy
on the 11th of June following, leaving the garrison
under the command of Major Davie. Our pen
almost refuses to perform its task, and record the
horribly sickening details of the fearful massacre
and sacrifice of human life, brought about, and
entailed on his victims by the cowardice and pusil-
lanimity of one man, who dishonoured and dis-
graced the country that gave him birth, the king
he served, the commission he held, the uniform he
wore, and the sword which he ought to have
wielded. So long as there is power in language,
or truth in history, the name of Major Dmue will
be execrated and loathed, as denoting all that is
vile, despicable, dastardly, treacherous, and
mean —

" Veritatis simplex oratio est ;"

Therefore, we resume our history.

From concomitant circumstances, we are in-
duced to believe, that Pilimi Talawe only waited
for the absence of General Macdowall to attack
the weakened garrison of Kandy ; the power of
the troops was diminishing daily, either by deser*
lion, or sickness. They were under the command

304 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

of Major Davie, a creature unworthy the name of
man, who had neither the courage nor ability for
an office which placed in his keeping and power
the honour of his country, and the lives of his
fellow-creatures.

Within a few days after the general was forced
to leave Kandy, Pilimi Talawe besieged the garri-
son, and Major Davie surrendered by capitula-
tion ; and it was stipulated thai Kandy should be
delivered up forthwith, with the whole of the
military stores, and that the British troops should
retire to Trincomalee, being allowed to retain
their arras. Before sunset on the day the surren-
der had been made, our gamson had evacuated
Kandy. Major Davie, marching at the head of
our troops, leaving 150 sick Europeans in hos-
pital, who had not been named in the articles of
capitulation, and for whom no provision was
made, to be dealt with as their savage, barbarous
enemies might choose.

Our troops, consisting of seventeen officers,
twenty British soldiers, two hundred and fifty
Malays, one hundred and forty gun lascars, ac-
companied by Mootoo Sawme and his attendants,
reached Wattapolawa on the Trincomalee road,
when their progress was intercepted by the river
Mahavelliganga, at all times a rapid stream, but

i

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 305

at that season much increased by the late rains.
Major Davie in vain attempted to get the men
across; and no mention had been made of this
river in the articles ; therefore their enemies, the
Kandians, were not bound to provide them with
canoes, or rafts ; and they now stood on the sur-
rounding heights, jeering at the position our
troops were placed in. Mootoo Sawme, Major
Davie, and the officers, with their followers, re-
mained on the banks of the river during the night,
and their attempts to procure rafts the following
morning proved abortive. Observing their irreso-
lution, some Kandian chiefs opened a communi-
cation with Major Davie, and his perplexed fol-
lowers, and these chiefs offered to provide boats,
on the condition that Mootoo Sawme was delivered
into the power of the Kandians. Major Davie
for a short time hesitated, but Jinally agreed to
this dishonourable, base, infamous, atrocious pro-
position, and communicated his determination to
the unfortunate prince, or rather king, Mootoo
Sawme.

"Is it possible," he exclaimed, "that the tri-
umphant arms of England can be so humbled, as
to fear the menaces of the Kandians ?"

But his expostulations were lost upon the das-
tardly, cowardly Davie, and Mootoo Sawme v\ as

306 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

delivered to his enemies — a living holocaust, pre-
sented by British officers to the demons of disgrace
and cowardice.

No language is sufficiently powerful to express
the dishonour brought on the name of Great Bri-
tain by this infamous act. The law of nations, as
well as those of good faith and honour were vio-
lated : Mootoo Sawme fled to us for protection,
placed his person in our keeping, confiding in our
honour ; we accepted the trust reposed — nay
more, caused him to be crowned king in his own
dominions, and entered into an alliance with him ;
then broke our faith with him, by listening to,
and accepting the overtures of a rebel, thus depos-
ing the monarch whom we ourselves had crowned.
He retreated with our troops, still trusting in
British probity, when he was shamelessly handed
over to his enemies, by one of that nation to whom
he had confided the safe-keeping of his person.
And the man who was guilty of this atrocity was
a soldier, and one who ought to have guarded the
honour of his country, and the persons of those
who placed themselves under the protection of
Great Britain. Shame on the name of Davie ! —
dishonoured it is, and will be as long as time shall
endure, and we spurn the name from our pen, as
we would a loathsome reptile from our path.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 307

Mootoo Sawme was taken before the usurper,
Sri Wikrama and his adikar, when Pilimi Talaue
put the following question to him : —

" Was it proper for you, being, as you are, of
the royal family, to fly to the English for protec-
tion, and join them in fighting against your coun-
try?"

" I am at your mercy," the unfortunate Mootoo
Sawrae meekly replied.

Some further questions were put, and received
humble replies, when this wretched prince was
ordered to suffer the most barbarous tortures, and
be impaled alive, thus meeting death in his most
terrific and agonizing form. This sacrifice of
Mootoo Sawme did not appease the insatiate
Kandians, who, finding that their former demands
had been agreed to, now refused to provide the
promised boats, insisting that the British troops
should lay down their arms, and return to Kandy.
No attempt at resistance was made by Major
Davie to this unprecedented demand — no expos-
tulation used as to the breach of faith now exhi-
bited by the Kandians ; all they required was
readily agreed to, and Major Davie, with his offi-
cers, were separated from their men, and the arms
of the whole party taken from them. The men
were then marched into a narrow pass, strongly

308 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

guarded by their armed Kandian escort, and
ordered out, two by two, and the question put if
they would serve under the Kandian king ? When
a negative was given, these poor fellows were
taken some distance from the main body, and
butchered in the most horrible manner by their
savage enemies. At the conclusion of this revolt-
ing slaughter of the soldiers, the officers shared
the same fate — but three European and one
Malay officer being spared. The names of these
were. Major Davie, Captains Rumley, Humphreys,
and Nouradeen. The first three lingered out their
lives in a wretched captivity among the Kandians,
but Captain Nouradeen's fate merits more parti-
cular and honourable notice.

The Kandians, not yet glutted with blood,
returned to Kandy, and murdered the whole of
the hundred-and-fifty sick European soldiers in
hospital. What must have been the agony of
these men, whilst this revolting massacre was
taking place? Left unprotected, in a hostile
country, by their commanding officer, whose duty
it was to have provided for their safeguard, pros-
trated by sickness or wounds they had received
whilst fighting under their country's banner, and
in her monarch's cause, unprovided with arms,
prostrated by bodily infirmity, prevented thus

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 309

from availing themselves of the means of self-
defence, with which nature had provided them,
their mental sufferings must, indeed, have been
most terrible. Nor can we be surprised, if, in
their dying agony, they forgot their duty as Chris-
tians, and cursed the man whose cowardice, want
of firmness, and hum.anity, had left them to
meet death, inflicted by the hands of barbarous
enemies.

l\vo of our men most miraculously escaped
from the fearful slaughter; the first was Corporal
Barnsley of the l9lh regiment, he received a deep
sword-cut on his neck, and had his head laid
open by blows from a club, but he contrived to
extricate himself from the heap of slain, and roll
over a bank into a paddy-field, where he lay con-
cealed until night. He then swam across the
river, and received assistance and food from some
kind Samaritans, who followed the precepts of
Buddha, succouring the sick and needy, although
the suppliant was not one who believed in their
god. After much suffering and difficulty, the
poor fellow reached our garrison at Matele, and
finally recovered from his wounds.

The other soldier was in hospital at Kandy,
was torn out of his bed, had a blister pulled off
his chest, and was knocked on the head with the

310 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

butt end of a musket, and thrown with his mur-
dered companions into a deep pit. He made his
way from among the dead bodies, and crawled
into a neighbouring drain, from whence he was
dragged in the morning, and hung to a tree : the
rope broke, and he was again suspended, and left
to die, but strange to say the rope again gave way,
and he contrived to secrete himself in a neigh-
bouring cave for ten days, during which period he
subsisted upon the grass that grew from the
sides.

A Kandian who had seen him twice hanged
accidentally found him, and was so astonished at
his preservation, that he determined to inform the
king. The superstitious tyrant declared that the
soldier must be under the especial protection of
the gods, thus to have escaped with life, and
ordered him to be provided with food, raiment, and
a dwelling, and eventually he, as well as Barnsley,
had the gratification of being restored to their
families. We believe if these accounts were read
in a work of imagination, they would be declared
to be beyond the bounds of probability, so true
it is—

" That tiTith is strange, stranger than fiction."

The wretched being, Davie, died in 1810, and it is

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 311

asserted that in appearance and dress he had
become essentially Kandian — and that he cohabi-
ted with a low caste vvoraanj by whom he had a
family, and it is said that grandchildren of his are
now in Kandy. Military men affirm that our
government tried to ransom this contemptible
creature, but as the Kandian king demanded a sea-
port to be given up in consideration for his libera-
tion, it was impossible to accede to such terms,
and Davie was left to linger among a people who
with all their faults are not cowardly ; consequently,
they must have despised him for his want of
bravery.

It is the bounden duty of an historian to be
impai lial, and draw notice to the conduct of thos.e
placed in responsible positions; therefore we deem
it necessary to animadvert upon the line of policy
adopted by General Macdovvall. In the first
place, it was a decided breach of faith, and vio-
lation of our treaty with Mootoo Sawme, the mo-
narcli whom we had crowned^ to enter into a
negotiation with Piliuii Talawe, and agree that
he should be the viceroy of Kandy, thereby de-
posing Mootoo Sawme, and pron.ising that he
should retire to Jaffnapatam. The overtures of
the crafty, Pilimi Talawe, had not the excuse of
being made in the name of the king, whom he

312 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

acknouledged, and whose prime minister he was,
namely, Sri Wikrama, but were made in his own
name and for his own benefit, as he consented to
deliver the person of his monarch into the hands
of the British. General Macdowall evinced but
an imperfect knowledge of human nature, even in
listeniiig to, much more in acceding to, the pro-
positions of a man who was alike a rebel and a
traitor to his king and country. He who was
faithless to the country which gave him birth,
and the monarch whose confidential servant he
was, could not be relied upon, or be expected to
keep faith with the British, whom he only availed
himself of to use as a step in ascending the ladder
of his ambition.

\\\ tlie second place, General Macdowall is to
be censured, for prematurely withdrawing so large
a body of troops from Kandy, leaving only one
thousand men in garrison, in the midst of a hos-
tile, treacherous nation, who could, from the
natural defence of the country, cut off all com-
munication and supplies ; added to which, this
small body of men was left under the command of
an officer totally incapable and unfit to have so
important a trust reposed in him. The fearful
consequences attendant upon the whole of the
mistaken line of policy pursued by General Mac-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 313

dowall in this disastrous business, has been seen
in the fatal results recorded in previous pages.

No attempt at palliation can be made for Major
Davie's misconduct ; and, for the credit of Great
Britain, such transgressions of the laws of honour
and humanity are rare. The result of Davie's
pusillanimous cowardice, in acceding to all the
unconscionable demands of his Kandian enemies,
met with awful retribution in his o/.n person,
and those of his brother officers ; but their suffer-
ings could not restore to life the hundreds of
slaughtered men who had fallen victims to the
savage brutality of the Kandians. To a well-
regulated mind, death is always preferable to
dishonour, and this feeling is generally deeply
imprinted on the heart of the British defender of
his country; and fortunate it is that the contrary
sentiment is rarely met with among Britain's
sons ; for, were it otherwise, and conduct such
as Major Davie's of frequent occurrence, we
should become a byword among the nations of
the earth, instead of being honoured and re-
spected where the name of England is known.

We expressed our intention of nuticiug the

heroic conduct of Captain Nouradeen, whose life

was spared at Watlapolov\a by the Kandians.

This officer was a Malay, ihen comniauding the

VOL. 1. p

314 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Malay regiment ; and Pilimi Talawe had used
every persuasion during the period our troops
occupied Kandy, to induce Captain Nouradeen
to leave our service, and enter that of the Kan-
dian, promising him high rank and riches. All
these offers were steadfastly refused ; and, when he
was made prisoner, Pilimi Talawe renewed them,
tempting Captain Nouradeen with life, rank, and
riches, if he would serve Sri Wikrama ; but the
answer he received was, " that he (Captain Nou-
radeen) was already the servant of a mighty king,
whose uniform he wore, and that he could not
serve two masters." Finding all entreaty and
persuasion useless, threats and tortures were es-
sayed; but these proved alike futile, in inducing
Captain Nouradeen to become traitor to the coun-
try which he served; and this noble, heroic fellow
was put to death by Pilimi Talawe. The contrast
presented in the character and conduct of Noura-
deen and Davie needs no concluding comment.

In August, desultory warfare and ravage com-
menced between the British and Kandians, when
Sri Wikrama, stimulated and intoxicated by his
late successes, threatened to attack Colombo, but
refrained from doing so; and, in September, he
besieged Ilangwelle, a fort of little importance, in
our possession, and suffered a severe defeat.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 315

At the commencement of the year 1801, the
Kandians prepared and attempted a general inva-
sion of the British settlements, but were repulsed
on all sides ; great havoc was made among their
troops, and the losses they sustained were con-
siderable. Shortly after this, Pilimi Talawe again
made overtures of an amicable nature to our go-
vernment ; but the severe punishment the British
had met with previously, after listening to his
treacherous propositions in 1803, were too vividly
impressed on their minds to permit them to hold
further intercourse of a friendly description with
so treacherous a man ; and, therefore, the over-
tures made by Pilimi Talawe were rejected with
the contempt they called for.

In the month of February of the year 1805, the
Kandians again invaded the British territories ;
but the result was the same as that which they
experienced the preceding year, viz., that of loss
and defeat. A body of our troops, consisting only
of three hundred men, followed by numerous
coolees and servants, and commanded by Major
Johnson, were ordered to the interior. This brave
officer fought his way from Batticalloa to Kandy,
and was there surrounded by the troops of Sri
Wikrama. Nothing daunted, he cut his way
through them, and proceeded in his road to

p 2

316 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Trincomalee, although constantly harassed by
the Kandian troops, who opposed the progress
of this undaunted body of men. This small army,
headed by Major Johnson, reached their destina-
tion with comparatively small loss, having had to
pass through a hostile country, and constant skir-
mishes having taken place between them and the
Kandian troops— thus showing what energy and
bravery could perform when commanded by an
officer possessing firmness and valour. The war
was carried on with much determination and
bravery on both sides ; and the king of Kandy
proposed a cessation of hostilities, which was
agreed to by the British, although no formal
treaty was entered into, and peace continued till
3814.

In July of this year, 1805, Governor North was
relieved by Sir Thomas Maitland, who succeeded
to the appointment of Governor of Ceylon.
Governor Norlh returned to England with the
good wislies of all the natives and British subjects
of that island ; and certes. Great Britain is in-
debted to the abilities of the Hon. Frederick
North, the first English Governor of Ceylon, for
retaining this bright colonial gem in the Britisli
diadem. Governor North left the colony in a
comparative state of tranquillity, no fresh hos-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 317

tilities having been renewed with the Kandiaus
until 1814; and he found it a scene of disorder,
warfare, and bloodshed. Mr. North left Lanka-
diva's verdant shores with the satisfactory con-
viction, that he had done much to ameliorate tlie
condition, physically and morally, of the be-
nighted inhabitants of Ceylon.

318 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

CHAPTER XII.

From 1805 to 1844 — Sri Wikrama's tyranny — Fii'st Adikar
family murdered — Affecting account of the execution —
Heroic conduct of the wife and son — Babe taken from
the mother's breast to be decapitated — Kebellion in
Kandy — Martial law proclaimed — Tranquillity restored —
Dalada reUc — Death of the King of Kandy — Govei-nor Sir
Colin Campbell — His policy — Bishopric of Colombo con-
stituted— The fii-st Bishop Dr. Chapman — His exertions
and character — Rebellion in Kandy — The Priests causes
of dissatisfaction — New taxes and first disturbance — Pre
tender proclaimed — His progi'ess — Eebels enter and
destroy the public buUdings at Matele — Troops march
from Kandy — Conflict with rebels — Martial law proclaimed
— Reward offered for Pretender — Destruction of Kumegalle
— Observer newspaper exciting discontent — Alarming
meeting of natives near the seat of Government — Attack
of the police — Mr. Elliot addresses the mob — Reinforce-
ments sent to Kandy — The Commandant takes possession
of the Dalada relic — Pretender's brother shot — Result of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 319

Courts Mai'tial — Special sessions of Supreme Court — The
Cliief Justice's charge — His recommendatiou to mercy —
Lord Torringtou's reply.

Although there was a cessation of hostilities
between the British and Kandians, we were not
uninterested observers of the political events oc-
curring in Kandy, which were most important,
as the monarch, Sri Wikrama, was no longer the
weak, supine youth — a mere automaton, placed
on the throne by Pilimi Talawe, and whose ac-
tions were subservient to, and dictated by, his
adikar, or prime minister. The footing upon
which Pilimi Talawe had been with Sri Wikrama,
during, the first part of his reign, when the Kan-
dians were engaged in war with the British, could
not subsist during peace. The authority of Pilimi
Talawe gradually declined, as the monarch held
more securely the reins of government, and felt
himself seated fastly on the throne. Sri Wikrama
now exhibited his real character, which was that
of a despotic tyrant, and he evinced his determi-
nation to govern, as his predecessors had ruled
Kandy, with absolute power ; whilst Pilimi
Talawe, on his side, was in like manner resolved
to retain, and maintain, his influential hold over
the Kandian monarch and his court.

Mutual distrust between the monarch and his

■i

320 CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE.

adikar existed for years, until 1812, when Pilimi
Talawe excited the jealous fears of Sri Wikrama,
by requesting that the illegitimate daughter of
the last king, Rajadhi, might be given in marriage
to his son. Sri Wikrania was highly incensed at
this presumptuous proposal of the adikar, as he
viewed it as a covert attempt to be enabled to
claim affinity with the royal blood, and sum-
moned the whole of his chiefs to court, and pre-
ferred various charges of misconduct, and arrogant
assumptions, against Pilimi Talawe.

The chiefs listened with becoming gravity to
tiie complaints made by their king, and Pilimi
Talawe was condemned by Sri Wikrama, with
the concurrence of the assembled chiefs; when, to
the surprise of all, the king pardoned the adikar,
declaring his reluctance to punish so old a ser-
vant, and reinstated Pilimi Talawe in his office of
adikar.

It is difficult to fathom the motive which ac-
tuated Sri Wikrama : it must have been dictated
either by the most noble generosity, or by the
most subtle cunning; but Pilimi Talawe enjoyed
his position as adikar only for a short time after
he had been reinstated in his office, as his con-
duct again excited the king's displeasure, who
banished him to his province, forbidding him to

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 321

leave it without his (the king's) permission, and
depriving him of his rank and honours.

Scarcely was Pilimi Talawe in his province,
before he hired Malays to murder the king. This
conspiracy was discovered by Eheylapola, for-
merly the second adikar, but whom the king
had made first adikar when he disgraced Pilimi
Talawe ; the conspirators were taken, tortured,
and condemned to be trodden to death by ele-
phants, trained to that pur|30se ; whilst Pilimi
Talawe and his nephew were tortured and be-
headed.

The demons of cruelty and suspicion now
reigned lords paramount in the breast of Sri
Wikrama ; he condemned his chiefs to death
without just cause, and feared rebellion to exist
in every breath his subjects drew. Eheylapola,
who at that time was devoted to his king, Sri
Wikrama, regarded with distrust : province after
province the king declared to be in a state of re-
bellion, although Eheylapola vouched for their
allegiance ; nevertheless, Sri Wikrama fined some
of the inhabitants, imprisoning, torturing, and
mutilating others. In some districts, the king
ordered the priests and Moormen to quit, for-
bidding all women, except natives of those dis-
tricts, to remain in them. The domestic wretch-

P 5

322 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

edness this edict caused is well described by Dr.
Davj, who was in Ceylon at the time.

" Wives were separated from their husbands ;
mothers from their children ; the young bride and
the aged parent — all indiscriminately were torn
from the bosom of their families, and driven from
their homes, producing scenes alike of distress
and anger, which might well shake the firmest
loyalty."

Thus we see how Sri Wikrama contrived to
goad into rebellion his stanchest adherents and
subjects. In the year 1814, for some trivial
neglect of duty, Eheylapola was ordered to his
district of Saffragam, and thither he retired, in
obedience to the king's command ; but as Ehey-
lapola was beloved sincerely by the inhabitants
of Saffragam, they exhibited every demonstration
of joy at the return of Eheylapola. This Sri
Wikrama chose to construe into an act of rebel-
lion, and proclaimed Saffragam to be in a state
of insurrection, and despatched troops there, to
make Eheylapola prisoner, and bring him to the
capital, alive, or dead ; and these were com-
manded by Molligodde, formerly the seccmd
adikar, but upon whom Sri Wikrama had be-
stowed the place of Eheylapola. This nobleman,
however, with several chiefs, took refuge in Co-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 323

lombo, placing themselves under the protection
of the British government, whilst Molligodde
look prisoners many of his adherents, and re-
turned triumphantly to Kandy, carrying with him
the adherents of Eheylapola.

The fury of the king at the escape of Ehey-
lapola knew no bounds, and he wreaked his
vengeance on the victims within his grasp. Exe-
cutions, tortures, impalements, mutilations, con-
fiscations, and imprisonments, were now the
daily — almost hourly — occurrences. The place
of torture and execution flowed with human gore
— the air was filled with the shrieks of victims,
under the hands of the torturer, and Kandy was
now one vast slaughtering-place.

As Sri Wikrama could not get the person of
Eheylapola into his power, he determined to
obtain possession of his wife and children. Ac-
cordingly, they were made prisoners, with Ehey-
lapola's brother and his wife, the tyrant resolving
to wreak his vengeance on all. They were, forth-
with, brought to Kandy, condemned to suffer
death for being the wife, ofi*spring, and relations
of a rebel, and were to be executed publicly in
the market-place of Kandy, in the presence of the
whole court and population.

The day appointed for this horrible butchery

324 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

arrived, and the wife of Ehejlapola, with his
four children (the eldest boy being but eleven
years of age, and the youngest an infant of a few
months old, sucking at its mother's breast,) were
led to the place of execution. The wife, a woman
of majestic mien and noble deportment, attired
in her court-dress, and adorned with all her jewels
of state, befitting her high rank and station, ad-
vanced boldly to meet her fate, declaring her
husband's integrity, and expressing her hope that
the life which she was about to give up might
be of benefit to him. She was ordered to stand
back, as it was the king's command that she was
to die last — to stand by and see her children but-
chered. She uttered no remonstrance, but em-
braced her eldest boy, telling him to submit to
his fate as became Eheylapola's son. The child
hesitated, and terrified, clung to his mother
for protection, when his brother, two years
younger, stepped forward boldly, embraced his
mother, and told his brother not to disgrace his
father by such cowardly conduct, and that he
would show hira how to die as became Eheyla-
pola's son ; advanced with firm step to the exe-
cutioner— one blow — a lifeless trunk, deluged in
blood, falls to the earth, and the young noble
spirit had taken its flight.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 325

But the refinement of barbarous cruelty was
not to terminate in compelling a mother to stand
and see her offspring butchered ; the trunkless
head was thrown into a paddy-pounder, the
pestle placed in the mother's hand, and she was
ordered to pound the head of her child, or she
should he disgracefully tortured. The mother
hesitated ; but the feelings of innate delicacy im-
planted in the high-born woman's breast pre-
vailed— every mental anguish would be prefer-
able to the public exposure of her person — she
lifted up the pestle, closing her eyes, and let it
fall on the skull of her dead child.

This hideous scene was enacted with the two
other children, and the wretched mother had to
endure the same mental torture. At last, it was
the infant's turn to die, and it was taken from its
mother's arms, where it lay sleeping, and smiling,
in tranquil unconsciousness. Eheylapola's wife
pressed her babe convulsively to her bosom ; then,
in mule agony, allowed the executioner to take her
last child from her. In a moment the little head
was severed from the delicate body. Tlie milk
that had been drawn a short time previously from
the mother's breast, was seen distinctly Jlo wing ,
and mingling with the sanguine stream of life.
The Kandian matron then advanced eagerly to

326 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

meet death. With a firm step, she walked towards
the executioner, but with caution, to avoid step-
ping in the blood, or treading on the lifeless,
mutilated bodies of her children. Her face was
cahn — ahnost wore an expression of satisfaction
— the worst had happened — she had seen her
children slaughtered — they were out of the tyrant
Sri Wikrama's power. The hand of the execu-
tioner is laid on her, to lead her to her watery
grave. * She thrusts him aside, telling him not to
pollute a high-born Kandian matron with his
touch ; to remember that she was Eheylapola's
wife, and had stood calmly to see her children
murdered ; would she therefore shrink from meet-
ing them in death ? Bade adieu to her brother-
in-law, telling him to meet death as became his
birth ; called to her sister-in-law not to unman
her husband by useless wailings, but to follow
her; then walked towards the tank, (contiguous
to Kandy,) two executioners following and pre-
ceding, carrying large stones.

They have arrived at the tank ; Eheylapola's

* Eheylapola's wife and sister were condemned to be
drowned ; the brother and children to be beheaded. The
details of this trao^edy and attendant circumstances were
described to the writer by a Kandian chief, who was an eye-
witness to this hoi'rible butchery.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 327

wife gazes fixedly on the tranquil water, whereon
the sunbeams glitter sportively in millions of rays;
the sister weeps as the executioner commences
attaching the heavy stones to her slender throat.
It is firmly secured ; the weight bears her fragile
form to the earth ; and the executioners are com-
pelled to carry her to the tank. She shrieks
wildly as they near the tank ; they hold her over
the waters — more piercing screams rend the air.
A sudden splash — then the waters close over a
tyrant's victim, serenely unconscious of the atro-
city perpetrated.

Eheylapola's wife had stood motionless during
this period, a slight expression of scorn passing
over her features, as her sister's shrieks filled the
atmosphere. 'Tis now her turn to die. The
executioners advanced towards her, carryino- the
ponderous stone. She motions them off. They
still advance — are quite close to her; the cords
that are to attach the weight to her throat already
touch her person ; she asks them to desist, assur-
ing them that she will not make any resistance
or attempt to save her life. The executioners
refuse, stating they must adhere to their orders
and one lays his hand roughly on her shoulder.
She shrieks, and eludes his foul touch, for with a

328 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

bound she darts towards the tank, and leaps into
the water : they close over her form in eddying
circles, and her spirit has flown for ever. The
executioners depart, palm-trees droop gracefully
over the waters, and the sunbeams glitter sportively
in millions of sparkling rays, as the stream mur-
murs a requiem over the murdered wife and sister
of Eheylapola.

The butchery in the market was not completed
when Eheylapola's wife quitted it, for her hus-
band's brother was slill to die. The headsman
advances towards him, sword in hand, lays his
blood-stained hand on the chief's shoulder,
attempting to raise his head. The chief, with an
indignant exclamation, throws the audacious hand
off his person, plants his feet firmly on the earth,
draws himself up to his full height, standing with
niajestic dignity, and scornfully desiring the
executioner to fulfil the tyrant's command. Has
the chief's stern gaze unnerved the headsman .?
A blow was struck I a stream of red blood gushes
forth ! — but, horrible ! the head is not wholly
struck off ! The sword is again poised in the air
— a flash of light falls on the glittering weapon of
destruction : it descends on the muscular, manly
throat ; the sword is now reeking with red blood !

CEVLON AND THE CINGALESE. 329

A headless trunk falls to the ground, whilst the
head, with glaring eye-balls, rolls along the eartli,
and is thrust aside rudely by the executioner's
foot. The bloody tragedy is finished !

Before the temples of the gods Nata and Vishnu,
and opposite to the queen's palace, was this
fearful scene enacted. Sri Wikrama laid all feel-
ings aside save those of revenge ; for, by the Kan-
dian laws it was forbidden that human blood
should be shed near a temple ; also to wound or
shed the blood of a woman was considered a
heinous crime, and one of the innocent children
of Eheylapola was a girl.

During the time this revolting butchery was
going on, women shrieked, closing their eyes to
exclude the terrific reality ; men groaned in mental
torture, burying their heads in their hands ; whilst
many of the noble Kandian youths, in anguish
rolled on the earth, their mouths pressing close to
the sod to stifle their cries. We will wind up
this fearful account by quoting a contemporaneous
author: —

" During this tragical scene the crowd, who had
assembled to witness it, wept and sobbed aloud,
unable to suppress their feelings. Palihapaul
Depaaul was so affected that he fainted, and was
expelled his office for showing such tender

330 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

sensibility. During two days the whole of Kandy,
with the exception of the tyrant's court, was as
one house of mourning and lamentation, and so
deep was the grief, that not a fire, it is said, was
kindled, no food dressed, and a general fast was
held."

We believe the savage cruelty of this barbarous
tyrant to be unparalleled in ancient or modern
history : the crimes imputed to the Roman em-
perors, Nero and Caligula, were trivial, when com-
pared with those constantly practised by Sri
Wikrama, and our astonishment is extreme that
any nation — more especially a warlike one, such
as the Kandians — should have submitted for a
lengthened period to the cruel tyranny exercised
by their monarch. Sri Wikrama spared neither
age nor sex — the sucking infant, children, old and
young women, were all alike condemned to be
tortured in the most revolting, disgusting manner,
mutilated and executed, if thej^ or their relations
incurred his displeasure, or from the caprice of
the instant. We can comprehend man viewing
with apathy the destruction of his fellow-man ; but
we cannot understand how men could permit the
slaughter of the delicate woman, or the helpless
child — every feeling implanted in our nature
rebels against the bare supposition that the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 331

creatures whom, from very instinct, we feel our-
selves bound to protect, should be slaughtered
before our eyes, for no crimes which they had
committed, but simply for being the wife of the
bosom, and the offspring of a man who had in-
curred a tyrant's displeasure. It is an enigma
how this debased specimen of human nature, Sri
Wikrama, escaped assassination by the hands of his
subjects; but the scourge of retribution was near,
hovering in his path, although the punishment he
met with in this world did not equal his deserts.

At the end of this year, Sri Wikrama cruelly
tortured ten native traders (British subjects) who
had gone into his territories for merchandize.
They made their escape from Kandy, coming to
Colombo in a mutilated condition, some without
ears, others without eyelids — the remainder either
noseless, footless, or handless — and made com-
plaint to the Governor-general, Sir Robert Brown-
rigg. On the 10th of January, 1815, war was
declared against the King of Kandy, not against
the Kandian nation, *' but against that tyrannical
power which had provoked, by aggravated out-
rages and indignities, the just resentment of the
British nation, which had cut off the most noble
families in the kingdom, deluged the land with
the blood of its subjects, and, by the violation of

33-2 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

every religious and moral law, had become an
object of abhorrence to mankind."

The British troops entered the Kandian territo-
ries on the following day, and fighting com-
menced. The Kandians gave battle, not as men
fighting for liberty and their land, but as merce-
naries in the service of a tyrant, who, for gold,
fought against the British, who were disposed to
befriend them ; and skirmish after skirmish ensued,
and war was carried on by the Kandians without
spirit, or energy. Mollegodde, the successor of
Eheylapola, at this critical period, deserted his
cruel master, Sri Wikrama ; and, as he was the
only efficient commander whom he possessed, and
one whose place it was impossible to refill, the
loss Sri Wikrama sustained was irreparable.
Mollegodde had been long disgusted with the
tyrant's service, and awaited the opportunity
of joining the English, which had been only
deferred until he could get his wife and children
from Sri Wikrama's court. The tragical execu-
tion of Eheylapola's family warned Mollegodde
what would be the fate of his wife and children,
if he abandoned his office of adikar, leaving these
sacred ties in the clutches of the savage king.
But no sooner had he effected the withdrawal of
his family from the Kandian territories, than he

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE 333

offered his aid to the British, to assist in dethron-
ing Sri Wikrama.

On the 14th February, Sir Robert Brovvnrigg
established his head-quarters atKandy; but the
king had made his escape from thence a few days
before, and it was reported that he had fled to
Doombera, about twelve miles from Kandy ; and
as part of our troops, which were advancing to
the capital, had fallen in with two of the king's
wives, a quantity of jewels and treasure which
were captured, the report bore every appearance
of being a correct one. Sir Robert Brovvnrigg
lost not an instant in forming plans to ensure the
capture of Sri Wikrama. Detachments from
Colonel O'Connell's, Majors Kelly and Rook's
divisions, were ordered to scour the country
round, making every possible search for the tyrant,
to cut off' all retreat.

Energetic and efficient as these officers were,
their search was fruitless; and, in all probability,
the English never would have succeeded in cap-
turing Sri Wikrama, had not his own subjects
aided them. Eheylapola's followers were looking
with lynx-eyed vengeance, for llic wretch who
had butchered the wife and children of their be-
lo^-ed chief. They sought him with unwearied
perseverance, found him ; and, although the

334 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

Malabar escort which surrounded the tyrant, Sri
Wikrama, fought nobly in defence of their blood-
stained monarch, captured the fugitive king,
bound him hand and foot, reviled him with the
atrocities he had committed, and the murders he
had caused, spat upon him, telling him that it
wasEheylapola's slaves — the slaves of the woman
he had butchered — that thus treated him, in re-
venge for his savage brutality ; that they now
intended to drag him to a neighbouring village,
that he might be execrated by the multitude as he
went along. Curses loud and deep were showered
on the head of Sri Wikrama, by his own subjects,
as he passed along the road ; almost each inquired
of him for a murdered or mutilated relation or
friend ; curses and missiles were hurled at him ;
he was subjected to every species of ignominious
reproach ; and, finally, was handed over a pri-
soner to the British.

Sri Wikrama, the last king of Kandy, was
taken prisoner at Galleehewatte, in Doombera, on
the l8th of February, 1815, being exactly four
days after Sir Robert Brownrigg had established
his head-quarters in the capital of his dominions.
Some historians, with a misplaced, maudlin sen-
sibility, have deprecated the treatment that Sri
Wikrama met with at the hands of Eheylapola's
6

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 335

followers. Although Christianity teaches us to
forgive our enemies, and those who have inflicted
injuries upon us, the best Christian finds it a
most difficult precept to follow. Can we, then,
wonder at the reproaches and ignominy, which
these men showered on one, who had condemned
the innocent children and wife to a cruel death,
solely because he could not lay hands on the per-
son of their chief? — more especially as these men
did not profess Christianity, but were heathens,
followers of Buddha. On the contrary, these
men are to be commended for the forbearance
they exhibited in placing Sri Wikrama alive, un-
tortured and unmutilated, immediately after they
had made him prisoner, in the hands of the
British.

The personal appearance of Sri Wikrama was
not unprepossessing, except when he was excited,
then his eye gleamed with the fire of a demon,
and the face wore an expression of malignant
cruelty. He was tall, well-made, slightly enhon-
point ; the features of the face good, and the ex-
pression intelligent ; the complexion of a clear,
rich, dark brown ; the head well formed, (although
the animal organs predominated over the intellec-
tual,) with are dundancy of long, thick raven-black
hair. He took great delight in adorning his per-

336 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

son, and wore a profusion of cosily jewels at all
times ; but on state occasions, the cap and dress
in which he habited himself glittered with gems
of inestimable value. We need only say of his
character, " Ex uno disce oimies.''^

On the 2nd of March, Sri Wikrama was finally
and formally dethroned; and a convention con-
cluded between Sir Robert Brovvnrigg and the
Kandian chiefs, together with the chief officers of
the Kandian territories. The official notice pub-
lished on the occasion states : — " This day a
solemn conference was held in the audience-hall
of the palace of Kandy, between his Excellency
the Governor and Commander in-chief of the
Forces, on behalf of his Majesty, and of his Royal
Highness the Prince Regent, on the one part, and
the adikars, dissaaves, ratramahatmeers, and other
jnincipal chiefs of the Kandian provinces, on the
other pait, on behalf of the people, and in pre-
sence of aratchega3's, coraals, vidhans, and other
subordinate headmen from the different provinces,
and a great concourse of inhabitants. A public
instrument of treaty, prepared in conformity to
conditions previously agi-eed upon, for establishing
his Majesty's government in the Kandian pro-
vinces, was produced, and publicly read in Eng-
lish and Cingalese, and unanimously assented to.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 337

The British flag was then, for the first lime,
hoisted, and the establishment of the British do-
minion in the interior was announced by a royal
salute."

The second article of the treaty stated — " Sri
Wikrama was, by consent of his subjects, formally
declared to be deposed, his family and relations
for ever debarred from ascending the throne, and
all the rights and claims of his race to be extin-
guished and abolished."

The two succeeding articles were devoted to
minor political arrangements.

The fifth article declared — " That the religion
of Buddha was inviolable ; its rights, ministers,
and places of worship were to be maintained and
protected."

The sixth and seventh articles were of an im-
material nature.

By the eighth and eleventh it was declared —
" That the laws of the country were to be still
recognised according to established forms, and by
the ordinary authorities, and that the royal dues
and revenues were to be levied, as before, for the
support of the government." *

* We have merely given the outlines of the treaty, and
what we considered most probahly would interest the
general reader.

VOL. I. Q

338 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

In the month of January following, Sri Wik-
rama, and all the members of his family, were
banished to Madras, and our government in
Ceylon were well pleased to be rid of the onerous
duty attendant upon the safe-keeping of the
ex-king's person ; as they apprehended either
his escape, or that some Kandian, to benefit
his country, might assassinate him, to prevent
the possibility of his regaining the throne of
Kandy.

From this period, until the 10th of September,
1817, the government of the British was submitted
to with tranquillity ; but at this date some Kan-
dian chiefs of Welasse rose in rebellion, resolving
to struggle to regain the independence which they
prized so highly, and for which their various con-
flicts with Malabars, Malays, Moors, Portuguese,
Dutch, and, finally, their voluntary subjection to
the English, had failed to eradicate fiora their
breast. The conduct of the chiefs, in heading
and exciting the inhabitants of their districts to
revolt, was inexcusable, as they had voluntarily
sought the aid of the British to assist in dethron-
ing their king, Sri Wikrama, had entered into a
treaty with, and sworn allegiance to, the govern-
ment of Great Britain — the treaty which had
been entered into by us with the Kandians, had

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 339

been most rigidly adhered to — and they had not
the shadow of an excuse for rebelling against the
government, vyhose aid they had sought, and to
whom they had voluntarily subjected themselves.
Mr. Wilson, the government- agent of the district,
went to meet the rebels, and endeavoured to quell
the revolt, but most unfortunately did not succeed
in his object, although his life fell a sacrifice,
having been killed by the rebels.

The pretender to the throne of Kandy was a
priest of Buddha, who had thrown off the yellow
robes of his office ; the chief who principally
aided the pretender was a man of great influence
in his district, Kapittipola, and brother-in law to
Eheylapola, and who brought many followers
with him to join the pretender. Pilimi Talavve,
the son of the former adikar, also joined the rebels,
with many other chiefs. Considerable alarm was
now felt by our government, for, in less than six
months from the commencement of the revolt,
every district of any importance was in a state of
rebellion ; in the various skirmishes which look
place, we lost many officers and men ; the rebels
also skulked about our encampments, waylaid, and
murdered our soldiers.

On the 21st of February, 1818, martial law
was declared in the Kandian provinces, and the

Q 2

340 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

sacrifice of human life was terrible on both sides.
Our soldiers were now beginning to sink under
the effects of the unwholesome atmosphere of
Kandy, and, day by day, events assumed a more
gloomy aspect for the British, whilst the Kandi-
ans grew bolder, and held a grand meeting at
Deyabetmewala, at which the pretender and
chiefs were present. Dr. Davy, in his " Ceylon,"
writes : —

" During the three following months our affairs
assumed a still more gloomy aspect. Our little
army was much exhausted and reduced by
fatigue, privation, and disease ; the rebellion
was still unchecked — all our efforts had been
apparently fruitless — not a leader of any conse-
quence had been taken, and not a district sub-
dued or tranquillized. This was a melancholy
time to those who were on the scene of action,
and many began to despond, and augur from bad
to worse, and to prophesy that the communica-
tion between Colombo and our head-quarters at
Kandy would be cut off, and that we should very
soon be obliged to evacuate the country, and fight
our way out of it."

Tiiese gloomy forebodings were not destined to
be realized : disunion of a serious nature now
manifested itself among the chiefs, and the pre-
tender was taken prisoner by an adverse party,
who set up a chief of their own selection. Kapit-
tipola, their most able general, was defeated in

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 341

several engagements, and, in October, was taken
prisoner, with Pilimi Talawe, by the British ; one
by one, the chiefs were taken, tried, convicted of
high treason, and beheaded. Notwithstanding
these stringent, but necessary measures, a spirit
of rebellion still continued to manifest itself,
and it was not until February, 1819, that the
administration of martial law in the Kandian
provinces ceased.

We purposely omitted mentioning the capture
of the Dalada relic, which they say is a tooth of
their god Buddha, and which they hold sacred, until
this page. This relic was taken, towards the end
of the late rebellion, and, trifling as this incident
may appear at the first glance, we believe we are
borne out by facts, that it is owing to the circum-
stance of having given up the possession of the
Dalada relic to the charge of the priests, which
has, in a great measure, occasioned the late insur-
rection in Ceylon, 1848, the full particulars of
which will be given subsequently. The Cinga-
lese tradition is, "That whoever obtains posses-
sion of that sacred relic, obtains with it the
government of Ceylon ;" and no sooner was it
made known that the Dalada was in the posses-
sion of the British, than the followers of Buddha
returned to their allegiance, district after district
laid down their arms, and acknowledged the
sovereignty of Great Britain. A new convention

342 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE

was now entered into with the chiefs, by which it
was stipulated —

" That all personal services, excepting those
required for making and repairing roads and
bridges, should be abolished, and that all taxes
should be merged into one, a tax of one-tenth
on the produce of the paddy-land. That justice
should be administered by the board of commis-
sioners at Kandy, and by the agents of govern-
ment in the different provinces, aided by the
native Dissaaves, who were henceforth to be
remunerated, not by the contributions of the peo-
ple, but by fixed salaries."

In January, 1820, a man of the second caste
assumed the title of king of the Kandians, and
collected some few of the Veddahs, or aborigines,
at Bintenne, and created new disturbances ; but,
as the self-elected king of the Kandians was
apprehended immediately after his assumption
of that dignity, his followers quickly dispersed.

The Dalada relic was placed in the keeping of
the government-agent of the Kandian provinces,
and was publicly exhibited to the priests and
people, for worship, at stated periods. Whether
it was consistent with our character as a Chris-
tian nation to have aught to do with, or sanction
the heathen worship, of a piece of yellow ivory,
we will not enter upon here.

The island was now in a state of tranquillity ; for

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 343

although trivial disturbances took place amongst ar
few, which were quelled as soon as they arose,
the nation appeared to be satisfied with our go-
vernment. Attention was directed to the forma-
tion of schools of instruction for the natives, both
by our government and by the missionaries, and
attempts were made to induce them to embrace
Christianity. Literary and agricultural societies
were formed ; means of communication, by the
formation of roads from one part of the island
to the other, were planned and commenced ;
bridges were thrown over rivers ; and every
facility offered for the transit of passengers and
merchandise. In short, we tried to convince
the natives of Ceylon, by every honourable
means, that we were not a nation of warlike
bigots, or of grasping adventurers ; but wished
to improve their moral condition, and contribute
to their happiness, whilst they conducted them-
selves as loyal subjects of the crown of Great
Britain, to whom they had sworn allegiance.

The political horizon of Ceylon remained un-
clouded for years; the colony gradually improved
under our management. In 1832, the ex-king of
Kandy died at Vellore, of dropsy ; and until 1835
no event occurred worthy of especial remark.
In the January of thai year, Mollegodde, the
first adikar, and Dunewille Looko Banda, who
was related maternally to one of Sri Wikrama's
queens, with several others of lesser note, were

344 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

charged wilh high treason, and for having con-
spired against our government. A mass of con-
tradictory evidence was gone into ; and, although
they were acquitted, little doubt remained on the
minds of many that a conspiracy had been con-
cocted, but which had been frustrated before the
plot had ripened. Regular lists were found,
appropriating the various places held under our
government to the Kandian chiefs. This the
officials did not approve of, and still less did
they admire the list whereon the names of their
wives were inscribed, each lady being allotted
to some particular chief, and to those of the high-
est rank, two of England's matrons were appor-
tioned.

The conspirators tried to prove that these
documents were forged ; and did so to the satis-
faction of the jury, who acquitted them. Molle-
godde lost his rank as first adikar, another chief
being appointed in his stead ; but he was rein-
stated in his office in March, 1843, having given
proofs, during the intervening period, of his loy-
alty. Dunewille Looko Banda was also taken
into the service of our government; and in this
year died the son of Sri Wikrama, in exile.

From the year 1835 until 1848, no attempt at
revolt, or rebellion, agitated Ceylon. Since the
colony had come into our possession, various
charitable, scientific, scholastic, literary, and
agricultural societies were established ; a legis-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 345

lative council was formed, and a supreme court
instituted. In short, Ceylon enjoys all the ad-
vantages of our most flourishing colony ; and
by many political economists is considered the
most promising colony we possess.

In justice to the late efficient governor of
Ceylon, Lieuten ant-General Sir Colin Campbell,
who assumed that appointment in 1841, we must
stale what his exertions have done for that co-
lony. He found it a burthen to the mother
country. The valuable land sold at five shillings
per acre ; and government servants enriched
themselves at the expense of the country, by
purchasing this laud, turning it into coffee and
sugar estates, and neglecting their official duties,
(to discharge which they were paid by their
country,) they devoted their time to the culti-
vation and improvement of these estates. Go-
vernor Sir Colin Campbell prohibited, by a
government minute, the sale of crown land
under the sura of twenty shillings per acre ;
and at this advanced price found numerous and
ready purchasers, and frequently a much higher
sum was realized. By the unbiassed representa-
tions of the Governor to the home government,
civil servants were forbidden to purchase or re-
tain land for agricultural purposes, and were
required to devote their whole lime and atten-
tion to the duties of the respective offices which
they held under government.

Q 5

346 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

Sir Colin Caiupbell met with most determined
opposition on this point from the colonial corps ;
and vituperation of the most disgraceful nature
was heaped upon his head, by those members of
it who were amassing large fortunes by these
agricultural pursuits, to the neglect of their of-
ficial duties. Undauntedly, however, did Sir
Colin Campbell pursue the straight path of
honest duty to his sovereign and country, and
was rewarded hy his own conscience, and by the
approbation of all right-minded men. Sir Colin
Campbell used every exertion in his power to
have the salaries of the Ceylon civil servants in-
creased, and was successful in his efforts; thus
benefiting the men who had so lavishly censured
him for performing, to the best of his ability, the
duties of his office as Governor of the colony, by
insisting that the paid servants of the crown
should perform those duties that required their
undivided attention, and for which they were re-
munerated.

In 1845, Ceylon was constituted, by letters
patent under the great seal of England, an
episcopal see, by the title of the Bishopric of
Colombo, as previously it had been included in
the see of Madras ; and the Rev. Dr. Chapman
was appointed the first bishop. The bishop ar-
rived in Colombo in 1846. We believe that the
exertions of this truly pious, benevolent man, have
done more towards the conversion of the heathen,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 347

since his arrival, than had been effected during
the previous centuries, that nominal Christians
had formed settlements in Ceylon.

Every jDart of his diocese is visited constantly
by Dr. Chapman ; unwearied in his duty, un-
daunted by the fear of contagion, he visits hos-
pitals, jails, and the unwholesome jungle — sedu-
lously learning the native language, whereby he
may be enabled to communicate with and preach
to the Cingalese, without the aid or intervention
of an interpreter. He has made the natives
understand that his is not to be a temporary
residence, but that it is his intention to pass his
life among them. No words can express his
resolve so beautifidly as his own, and which he
addressed to a native congregation, shortly after
he entered upon the duties of his sacred office —
" 1 have come to Ceylon to live among you, and
learn your language ; with God's blessing to
benefit you, and with his permission to die in
your country." Possessing great piety, learning,
and humility, Dr. Chapman is blessed with great
eloquence, fluency of language, facility of express-
ing ideas, extreme urbanity of manner, unbounded
benevolence, a most prepossessing exterior ; and
devotes the whole of his time and attention to the
arduous duties of his office.

In conclusion, we can only say, that Dr. Chap-
man is a worthy, though humble, follower of his
Great Lord and Master ; that his appointment

348 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

as bishop, and residence in the colony, are calcu-
lated to benefit professing Christians, as well as
the benighted heathen, for the force of his ex-
ample, coupled with his precepts, must influence
and counteract, to a great extent, the effect which
the lax morality practised by many Europeans
in Ceylon, has had on the hearts and minds of
the rising generation, both of English and Cin-
galese.

Nothing worthy of remark occurred until
1848, when the rebellion broke out which has
drawn so much attention to the colony ; to
understand the events connected with it clearly
the reader must remember, that Ceylon is the
stronghold of the purest and most enthusiastic
Buddhism, and the priests of this religion have
long been dissatisfied with a government over
which they have no control, but with which
until lately they might have considered them-
selves in some measure connected. This con-
nection was severed when our government sur-
rendered to the priests the custody of the tooth
of Buddha, which had ever been regarded as the
palladium of Cingalese sovereignty. The aban-
donuient of this sacred charge on the part of the
government has been regarded by its present
sacerdotal guardians, not only as a breach of
faith, and a mark of great disrespect, but also as
an exhibition of political weakness; in reference
to the ancient tradition before referred to, namely,

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 349

that whoever possessed this sacred relic should
govern the island.

In 1842, the priests fomented rebellion, and
succeeded in raising a puppet-pretender to the
Kandian throne, who with many of his adherents
were tried and convicted of high treason ; and
the former made a full confession of his guilt, as
well as the manner in which he had been in-
duced to lend his name to the rebels. The flame
of rebellion thus raised was only smothered, and
the priests availed themselves of the dissatisfac-
tion expressed by the people at certain financial
regulations introduced in 1848, known as the
road-tax, gun-tax, dog-tax, and slop-tax, to refan
the smouldering^ combustibles.

In this effort the chiefs were not inactive, and
early in July of the same year Gonegallegodde
Banda, stated to be a descendant of Rajah
Singha, who had been previously sojourning in
the house of a native, following the occupation
of a wederala, or doctor, resided for five days in
Kandy, acting as the chief leader of the mal-
contents. While there, he was an inmate of the
Dalada Maligawa, whose priests maintained him.
He had figured in two previous rebellions, and
was tried for high treason in 1843, and acquitted.

On the 6th of July a large concourse of people,
amounting it is said to four thousand, assembled
from various districts in Kandy, stating that they
desired to have an interview with Mr. Buller,

350 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

the government agent ; this gentleman, on re-
ceiving intelligence, went to meet them at the
Cutcheriy, but owing to their violence he was
obliged to retire to the Maligawe. Here he
attempted to address the multitude without ef-
fect. Many of the crowd became excited with
ardent spirits, and their violence increasing, the
police attempted unsuccessfully to disperse the
mob and arrest the ringleaders.

The civil authorities were met by the people
with determined resistance, and the latter be-
coming more and more irritated, armed them-
selves with branches of trees, and knocked down
and injured some of the police. A company of
the 15th regiment was then called out, who
assisted the police to disperse the people. The
apparent object of the crowd was to extort a pro-
mise, that the obnoxious tax ordinances should
be repealed. It is a remarkable fact, that none
of the headmen or chiefs were present on this
occasion ; and there can be but little doubt, that
having stimulated the people to take this step,
they abstained from implicating themselves pub-
licly with the demonstration, while they anxiously
awaited the result of the movement.

The local authorities now took effective mea-
sures to inform the people, that the colonial
secretary. Sir Emerson Tennent, would receive
the chiefs and small deputations from the various
districts, at the Pavilion, on the 8th of July.

J

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 351

In the meantime every precautionary measure,
which was practicable, was adopted to preserve
the public peace. Special constables, both Euro-
pean and Malays, were sworn in, notices were
posted at the various entrances to the town, and
at the ferries, intimating, that no persons bearing
arms would be permitted to enter. As evil-de-
signing persons had circulated a list of thirty
articles, on which they asserted the government
were about to levy taxes, the government agent
issued a notice contradicting it, and giving correct
information, relative to the new taxes.

It having been intimated to Sir Emerson Ten-
nent in the early part of the day on the 8th of
July, that the people, who were assembling in
the Esplanade, were principally composed of the
inhabitants of Upper and Lower Doombera, he
sent for the Ratra-mahatmeers of those district,-,
who stated that they had failed to counteract the
false reports, or induce their people to remain
quiet. On hearing this reply. Sir Emerson Ten-
nent informed them, that as they had lost control
over the people, they had forfeited the confidence
of the government, and he accordingly suspended
them from their respective offices.

In the afternoon of this day, the colonial secre-
tary entered the Pavilion, which was crowded
with the chiefs and their followers. He ad-
dressed the meeting at considerable length in
favour of the new ordinances, applauding the

^52 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

chiefs, who had supported the government, and
expressing the dissatisfaction which must inevi-
tably follow an opposite course. After the meet-
ing had broken up, the chiefs and their attendants
dispersed among the crowd, about two thousand
in number, which gr;;dually disappeared, and the
town was restored to perfect quiet. 4

When the people withdrew from Kandy, Gone-
gallegodde Banda retired for a day into a jungle
called Danha Galla, where he received the homage
of a large body of Kandians as their king. From
thence he proceeded to the forest of Dambool,
from which he was escorted by an armed body of
men, sent by Golla-bella Ratra-mahatmeer, to a
cave in the forest of Dahe Yatte Madda Gallinna,
to await reinforcements. Here the pretender was
joined by four hundred followers well armed and
provisioned, and an ola was written by his order
to Golla-bella Ratra-mahatmeer, desiring him to
state why he had not forwarded clothing for his
use ; on the 26th of July an answer was sent,
accompanied with various articles for the pre-
tender's use, stating that they were for " My
Lord the King, until such time as you shall pass
Ballacadua, where I shall join you with the Maha
Nilime and clothes for five kings."

The following day, the pretender came with his
armed escort to Dambool Vehara, and at half-
past eleven o'clock a.m. he was invested with the
gword of state, and proclaimed King of Kandy.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE, 353

The morning of the 28th, the whole hody
marched to Selleman Galla, where a palanqueen
was brought, volleys were fired, and other rejoic-
ings took place. From this place the pretender
proceeded in his palanqueen with an increased
retinue to Pallaputwelle, where they halted for
the night. On his arrival on the following day
at Wariapulla, the pretender abandoned his pa-
lanqueen, and proceeded during the night with
four of his attendants to Doomborka Owelle, to
visit Ettepulla Banda, leaving the command of
his small army to his prime minister.

It was not until the 27tlf, however, that a re-
port reached the authorities at Kandy, that the
people were assembled at Matele " with swords
and fire-arms," and that a king had been crowned
at Dambooi the preceding night at the fortunate
hour. It was further ascertained that the post-
office communication was stopped on the Trinco-
malee road, and crowds of armed people were
assembling in all directions. On the 28th, Mr.
Buller proceeded in person to Matele to ascer-
tain the true state of affairs, and was met a short
distance from Kandy by the police magistrate of
Matele, who was hastening to Kandy for assist-
ance. This gentleman brought the intelligence
that four thousand armed men were in the neigh-
bourhood of Matele, who had entered the town
at noon on that day in a riotous manner, beating
tom-toms and blowing horns, drove out the police
stationed there, destroyed the public buildings.

354 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

including the magistrate's residence, and burnt
down the Bazaar.

Mr. Buller hastened back to Kandy accom-
panied by Mr. Waring, and at ten o'clock the
same night a detachment consisting of one cap-
tain, two subalterns, four sergeants, one bugler,
and one hundred rank and file of her Majesty's
15th regiment ; and one captain, four subalterns,
four sergeants, and one hundred rank and file of
the Ceylon Rifles, under the command of Captain
Lillie of the Ceylon Rifles, an old and expe-
rienced officer, well acquainted with the country,
and accompanied by the government agent, and
deputy Queen's advocate.

The progress of the troops was veiled in dark-
ness, until their arrival at the Rest-house of Balla-
cadua, when the day broke. After the detachment
had marched nine miles and a half, a shot was fired
within a few yards of them, which did not take
efiect. Two shots were fired half a mile further
on the road, close to the rear of the troops, which
possibly were only intended as signals. Another
shot was fired half way down the pass from a
gingal gun with the same object in view. A
mile from Matele, some armed natives were
observed on the side of the Matele road, and
on that leading to Wariapoola. Those in front
seemed disposed to parley, and some of the troops
went up to them unmolested ; while some were
ordered to move on their flank to get to their
rear ; a few of the rebels escaped, but most of

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 356

those in front were taken prisoners. The insur-
gents who were concealed in the jungle on the
side of* the hill, now commenced firing, by whom
one man of the 15th regiment was slightly
wounded.

The Rifles now entered the jungle on the
flank of the rebels; a conflict ensued, in which
the latter were completely routed, with the loss
of six killed and several wounded, and eight of
the latter were taken prisoners. The 15th regi-
ment remained on the high road in reserve. The
jungle was cleared by the Rifles, after which it
was ascertained that the insurgents had pos-
sessed themselves of a bungalow on the Waria-
poola estate, about half a mile from the high
road. Captain Lillie marched with the Rifles to
attack them, under the guidance of Mr, Adams,
a volunteer civilian. The natives, however, for-
sook the house as soon as the party came in
sight; the latter ]>ursued them, and were fired
upon by a party of rebels stationed in the jungle
on their flanks, most happily without effect.

Here the palanqueen of the pretender was
found, and broken in pieces by the Malays, be-
fore Captain Lillie could save it. Some thirty
pounds of gunpowder were also discovered ; and
in the verandah of the bungalow, Mr. Baker, the
superintendent of the estate, was found tied by
his legs and arms to the railing, suffering great
agony from the tightness of the ligatures and the
position he was kept in by the ropes : on being

356 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

released his skin was found to be quite disco-
loured ; he was then removed to Matele for
medical aid.

Captain Lillie returned the next day to Kandy
with the detachment of the 15th regiment, leav-
ing that of the Ceylon Rifles under the command
of Captain Watson, to protect Matele.

On the 29th of July, a proclamation was issued
offering a reward of £150 for the apprehension
of the pretender, and placing the Kandian dis-
tricts under martial law. On the 28th, an urgent
application was made for military assistance from
Kurnegalle, which is about twenty-five miles from
Kandy, but owing to the troops which had been
dispatched to Matele, Colonel Drought was un-
able to accede to it.

On the following day, however, one of the
magistrates came in person to seek assistance,
when thirty men and two ofllicers of the Ceylon
Rifles were dispatched ; on their arrival after a
forced march, they found Kurnegalle already in
possession of the insurgents. The Cutcherry had
been entered and plundered, all the records and
papers were being burnt or torn, and the mob
were in the act of breaking open the treasure-
chest, when the troops advanced upon them.
The Court House had been plundered and its
records destroyed, the gaol had been broken
open and the prisoners liberated, while the ba-
zaar was burnt down, and nearly every building
more or less damaged.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 357

The Rifles opened a fire upon the armed mob,
who attacked them in return as they approached,
but soon after took to flight : twenty prisoners
were taken, and six-and-twenty bodies of the
insurgents were afterwards buried. Notwith-
standing this loss, the rebels, amounting to four
thousand strong, made a second attack upon the
town two days later, aud after suffering loss were
again driven out by the Rifles; and on the same
day they made another equally unsuccessful at-
tempt, with some further loss, but no casualty
occurred on either of these occasions to the
Malay ti-ooi)S.

After the aff'ray at Wariapoola, the Prete.der
proceeded to Eleadua with a few followers, where
he remained until he received an ola and provi-
sions from Dulledewe Maha Nileme, when he
immediately started for Kurnegalle, at which
place he arrived in time to lead on the second
attack. After the defeat, he turned towards
Dambool, but for some unknown cause he altered
his course and entered the forest of Madaoelputta,
where he reuiaiued for some time in concealment,
being closely pursued by various detachments
sent out in search for him.

We must here break the narrative of events in
Kandy, as they occurred in ciironological ordei",
aud request our readers to accompany us to
Colombo, to enable them clearly to understand
the causes of the late I'ebellion.

358 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

A newspaper, called the " Observer," is pub-
lished in Colombo, whose editor for several years
has endeavoured to excite a spirit of opposition,
amongst the Burgher and Cingalese community,
against all the measures of the local government,
and of jealousy against the European inhabitants.
This newspaper has a large circulation therefore
amongst that portion of the community to whom
it is particularly addressed, and especially the
Burghers, to which class, almost all the proctors
and notaries belong. On the 3rd of July, 1848,
a letter was published in the " Observer," in the
Cingalese language, purporting to be translated
from the English, and signed " an Englishman,"
which was prefaced by certain observations of the
editor; we subjoin a literal translation of both.

" We have pleasure in publishing a letter
written by an English gentleman, who is kindly
disposed to men, without distinction of colour or
race, concerning the injustice of the new taxes
lately imposed by government. The Cingalese
people should consider, that to all persons, sub-
ject to the English government, there is a legal
right of making known their pleasure, before
they expend money in paying taxes. Therefore,
those persons who say, that to Cingalese men
there is not understanding enough to establish in
Ceylon a council including natives to represent
the inhabitants, should consider the present con-

8

CEYLON AND THE CfNGALESE. 359

stitution of the council of France, and its results.
Certainly the Cingalese people are not more un-
learned or foolish than the greater part of the
individuals, who elected members for the French
council. Certainly the Cingalese men are not
more unlearned or foolish than the Tamul men
of Pondicherry belonging to France. It is now
appointed that a Tamul man of that country
should represent the inhabitants in the French
council. If the men of this country wish to be
freed from paying improper taxes and other
wrongs, let them request a council, where they
may be able to discuss their affairs, not nominally,
but in a right manner.

" In order to show the wrongs inflicted on the
inhabitants of this country, and the justice which
they should receive, we translate this letter into
Cingalese, and publish it.

(Signed) " We the Persons who publish
the paper called the
' Colombo Observer.'"

" To the Gentlemen publishing the * Colombo
Observer.'

" Gentlemen,
" By residing in an out-station, and constantly
conversing with the natives by privilege, I have
an opportunity of knowing the great displeasure
that is stirred up among the inhabitants concern-
ing the new taxes lately imposed upon them, and

360 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

also their thoughts and words on the subject.
Further, if the government dare by forcible means
to collect these taxes, I can think that the dis-
pleasure among the inhabitants will be much
more increased, and from this many serious con-
sequences will follow. Although there are many
reasons on account of which the people should
resist the government appointed from time to
time, still up to this time they, without manifest-
ing an opposition, have been obedient. However,
if they should pay the money required for these
taxes, so unjust, and impossible to be borne,
lately imposed by government, obediently, and
sit quiet without imposing their whole power,
the Cingalese people will not only be considered
a race of slaves, obedient to everything, just or
unjust, done by government, but the world will
not regard them as a race of men of good mind,
and submitting to justice, and not to injustice
(i. e. to justice only). No person says that it is
not right for government to collect taxes for the
protection of the people, but should not this
collection of taxes be according to the ability of
the rich and the poor inhabitants ?

" Many persons are displeased on account of the
taxes * collected from the people of England,
and it is not proper to impose such taxes unless
the government be very poor ; however, we can-

* By this tax we mean a portion of the annual income of
the English people paid to government.

\

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 361

not say that it is altogether unjust, since they are
collected accordino; to the circumstances of the
rich and the poor. In England they are not
collected from hundreds of thousands (lacs) of
workmen and poor. They collect 7d. on each
£1 of the yearly income of the rich only, but,
according to the taxes lately appointed in Ceylon,
the poorest men will have to pay the new tax of
Ss. in the £1.

" Is there a greater injustice than this ? All
persons know that there are thousands of inha-
bitants in this Island, who do not possess three or
four cocoa-nut trees, or the fourth or fifth part of
a field, and who do not receive into their hands
10*. in the year. However, according to the
new taxes, such people are bound to pay 7.v. or
8s. yearly to government. A gun is a very
necessary thing for the protection of their crops.
By some poor people the gun is the only valu-
able article possessed. To rear a dog is also
necessary ; and for these 45. must be paid, toge-
ther with the (5d. paid for writing the certificate;
the gun-tax is 3.9., and for the dog Is ; and again
3,s*. are collected yearly from each person for
making roads. If there be more than one dog,
there is another charj^e.

" In this manner, a jioor person will have to pay
7s. or 8s. to government. This sum is sufficient
for the maintenance of one person for two
months. If other persons were to pay in tliis

VOL. I. R

362 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

manner, a European who receives £300 annu-
ally must pay £50, or two months' pay, for new
taxes; he who receives £600 must pay £lOO.
An English padre (clergyman) receiving .£700 a
year, must pay £1 16, and a little more ; an agent
receiving £lOOO, must pay £166, and a little
more. The gentleman, Emerson Tennent, Great
Secretary, must pay about £500, and the Gover-
nor £1.000.

" Some may say that 7s. or 8*. are not sufficient
to maintain a single man for two months, but I
know very well that to the poor people in the
Galle and Jaffna districts this sum is quite suffi-
cient for two months. Very well ; let us say
that Is. or 8s, are sufficient for the expense of
one month, yet, according to this, what a great
and unbearable sum goes to the government
yearly !

" What European is there who submits to this
payment ? Even when there is a war-rumour,
or when the government is heavily poor, no
European will submit to such an unjust payment.
But these taxes are imposed, not only at a time
when not only is there peace, but when the
people should be relieved as much as possible
from other heavy taxes paid to government.
What, then, is the intention of the Governor,
since he lays such a heavy burthen upon the
poor, and delivers the rich from it?

"The saying that the collection of this tax is

I

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 363

imposed by the unanimous vote of the legislative
and executive councils of this island, is not a true
saying. The government is trying to make even
those gentlemen of the Legislative Council, not
belonging to government, to agree to any thing
that is done ; those gentlemen of that Council
who are under government cannot oppose
government on account of this. Though there
is a saying that this matter is sanctioned (ap-
pointed) by the Council, it is not a true saying.

" The government of Ceylon is doing injustice,
like the government of Russia. I see no differ-
ence between those two governments except in
name. It is now understood and acted upon by
many countries in the world, that when people
pay taxes to a government, they must consider
whether it is a tax that can be borne by the peo-
ple, and that they must have the privilege of ex-
pressing their opinion to government, and also
whether the money raised by the tax is vainly
spent, or whether it is spent to the advantage of
the people. Not long ago millions of the people
received this right : some Cingalese people who
understood things right to be done, expected that
they would receive a part of this right ; but,
according to circumstances, it now appears that
in proportion as other races are delivered from
injustice, more and more injustice is coming
upon the inhabitants of this country.

" Now 1 say, is it proper that the Cingalese

R 2

364 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE,

people should submit to such severe injustice ?
Will they do so ? It is altogether improper to
submit. I hope they will not act so. 1 think the
Cingalese people will show they are not a race of
slaves, without doing (not doing) such severe
things as Europeans lately did in order to be
delivered from injustice. Justice will be done to
them if the reasons against injustice are rightly
expressed by petitions to the great Legislative
Council, called the Parliament of England. I
think the Cingalese people know this, and I have
no doubt they will believe it. Petitions should
be written, and sent to the different districts of
the Island, and signed by all collectively. Let
all the inhabitants of Ceylon demand of the En-
glish government to be delivered from injustice,
and to have justice done.

" Gentlemen, who print newspapers, I request
you will publish to the Cingalese under the pay-
ment of taxes like a burthen, that the govern-
ment is doing injustice, and that you will inform
the people of high office, that injustice, as a devil
(or demon of injustice) driven from the place
where he formerly wass will not be permitted to
come and live in this Island, If you do so, Cin-
galese people are not an ungrateful race.
" I am,

"An Englishman."

Theforeooing: wasnotconfined to the circulation
of the " Colombo Observer," but they were struck

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 365

off on slips of paper, which were extensively dis-
tributed amongst the people even in the most
remote parts of the country, by political agitators ;
and in Kandy they were known to have been
explained, and enlarged upon, to the natives by
dissatisfied or disappointed Europeans, connected
with the coffee estates. We must bear in mind
that the publication of the letter took place three
days before the disturbances broke out in Kandy,
and such a document, with its notes and com-
ments, must have been calculated to excite the
minds of the people, upon whom it had a more
injurious effect from their belief that it was
penned by an Englishman,

An oi'dinance had been passed about the same
time with those already complained of, which
was intended '' to provide for the registration and
license of certain traders," to resist which an
attempt was made by the wealthier shopkeepers,
by whom a combination was formed to intimi-
date their more necessitous brethren, to force
them to close their shops, and to prevent the sale
of the necessaries of life. The fear of this event
enabled these wealthy conspirators to effect a
rapid sale of all their own stock at exorbitant
prices. Eventually the poorer class of shop-
keepers were suffered to continue their trade
uninterruptedly, while the conspirators, to whom
the payment of one pound per annum could not
be an object, contented themselves with present-

366 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

ing a petition to the Governor, jjraying the
suspension of the law, which of course could not
be acceded to.

At the same time, a large number of copies of
a petition purporting to be addressed to the
House of Commons, mis-stating and exaggerating
facts, calculated to inflame the minds of the
people, were secretly circulated among the
natives in the vicinity of Colombo, as well as in
more remote districts, by agents employed to
obtain signatures. The substance, expressions,
and misrepresentations, contained in it, so very
closely corresponded with a letter, which subse-
quently appeared in the " Colombo Observer,"
bearing the signature of Mr. Elliott, the editor,
that he has been generally considered as the
author of the document, and the instigator of its
circulation. The following is also the translation
of a document, copies of which were circulated
with great activity throngliout the villages for
many miles round Colombo.

" Notice.

" His Excellency the Governor has, for the
present, enacted several taxes to be levied from
the inhabitants of this island, viz. : —

" Upon fire-arms, dogs, men, boats, and bou-
tiques (shops) ; and, in addition to this, it is also
enacted to levy, in a few months more, a tax
upon trees, lands, cattle, and all useful quadru-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 367

peds. We, the inhabitants of several viHages,
have consulted and agreed upon a petition about
the matter.

" It is therefore kindly requested, that the in-
habitants (both great and small) of all the villages
will assemble at seven o'clock in the morning of
Wednesday, the 26th instant, prepared for the
same."

The authors of this movement most cautiously
kept themselves out of view. In the meantime,
precautionary measures were taken by the
government, and, amongst the rest, a circular was
addressed to the headmen, reminding them, that
they would be held responsible for the conduct of
the people.

On the morning of the 26th, the people poured
in large numbers towards the town from the
neighbourhood and from distant villages, and as-
sembled at a place called Borellse, a spot where
several roads met, close to the Wellicadde gaol,
about a mile from the town. The mob havino-
collected, marched upon the police, who were
drawn across the road to prevent their approach
to the town. Their intention was evidently to
force a passage through the civil force, the super-
intendent was struck down, and several of his
men more or less injured. In the midst of the
contest, Mr. Elliott arrived, and holding up
hands was recognised by the mob, many of

368

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

whom were intoxicated, and his influence became
immediately apparent, as they were soon tranquil-
lized, and listened with great attention and satisfac-
tion to his harangue. In the midst of this pro-
ceeding, the Governor, accompanied by the major-
general and some troops, arrived, but finding the
excitement of the people quelled, the Governor
and military soon after returned to Colombo.

The ostensible object of this meeting was to
petiiion, and before the crowd dispersed a great
number of signatures were obtained on separate
sheets of paper, which were undertaken to be
presented by Mr. Elliott, along with a document
in Cingalese previously prepared ; indeed it has
been stated that these signatures were all attached
to the petition at the office of the " Observer "
previously to the meeting. This gentleman is
leported to have demeaned himself upon the oc-
casion, in such a manner as to induce a belief,
that he was accidentally present ; but lie is stated
to have shown that he had such influence over
those who guided the mob, that little doubt was
entertained of his being the instigator of the
movement.

Some of the paragraphs of this petition, which
was afterwards presented to the governor by Mr.
Elliott, recapitulate much of the substance con-
tained in the letter of the " Englisliman," and
concludes with the following sentence : " But if

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 369

your Excellency will not mercifully give us a
favourable reply, we certainly will not obey any
of these new laws."

Lord Torrington states, that had he been aware
of the concluding paragraph, he would have de-
clined to receive it, and would have held Mr.
Elliott responsible for the presentation of such a
document. The editor of the " Observer " ex-
cuses himself on the grounds that the petition
being in Cingalese, he had only an imperfect and
general knowledge of its contents, and his own
name was not appended to it. This defence must
be admitted, by the most prejudiced mind, to be
a criminal admission by Mr. Elliott that he had
omitted a public duty, by neglecting to inform
himself fully of the opinions and wishes of those
whom he volunteered to support.

The government having been informed that
other meetings would be attempted, under the
plea of petitioning the Governor, the following-
notice was issued : —

" Information having been received that the
inhabitants of the interior, and of some of the
Korlls in the neighborhood of Colombo, are,
under the advice and encouragement of evil-dis-
posed persons, assembling in large numbers,
under pretence of presenting petitions to the
Governor. Notice is hereby given, that his Ex-
cellency the Governor, although willing at all

ft 5

370

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

times to receive and consider petitions from any
of the inhabitants, if presented in a proper
manner, will not allow large assemblasres of the
people for this purpose, and he will take strong
measures to prevent meetings of this nature,
which can tend only to cause breaches of the
peace.

" By His Excellency's command,

(Sio-ned) " W. Morris,
'* Acting- assistant Colonial Secretary.

" Colonial Secretary's Office, Colombo,
July 28, 1848."

The government took active measures, by
posting police and military in the vicinity of
those places where meetings were proposed to be
held, and by this means the peace of the western
province was preserved.

But, to return to Kandy. Reinforcements
marched to the proclaimed districts from Co-
lombo ; the military pensioners, of whom there
are about three hundred in the Island, were called
out ; two divisions of road-pioneers were brought
in to assist the troops and escort the baggage,
while the " Lady Mary AVood " steamer was
despatched to Madras, and returned with tliree
companies of her Majesty's o7th regiment and a
large supply of ammunition.

It must have been also gratifying to the
government to find, that all the respectable in-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

371

habitantsof the town and neighbourhood of Kandy
placed themselves at the disposal of the com-
manding officer, for the protection of the town ;
by which means he was enabled to send out de-
tachments to various localities, vrhere their pre-
sence was urgently required, both as a protection
to the Europeans and peaceably disposed amongst
the natives, against rebels and plunderers, and as
an encouragement to the Malabar coolees, who,
it was feared, through terror might be driven
from the coffee-estates. Ammunition was distri-
buted amongst the planters, and most fortunately,
wherever the coolees received moderate en-
couragement, they were found to resist all inti-
midation on the part of the Kandians. Thus,
although nearly all the estates about Matele
were recklessly injured and plundered, in all
other districts, wherever the proprietors or super-
intendents remained at their posts and encouraged
their coolees, the properties have remained un-
injured.

Knowing the great importance that is placed
by the Kandians in the possession of Buddha's
tooth, and fearing that it might be made use of
as a great stimulant to, if not inspire confidence
in, the rebels, the commandant demanded the
keys of the temple from the priests, and examined
the shrine in the presence of the governixient
agent. The object of superstitious worship had

372

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

not been removed, but the commandant, deeming
it prudent to secure integrity on the part of
the priests, kept possession of the keys. This
step was soon followed by an order prohibit-
ing the beating of tom-toms, and the collecting
of crowds in the temples.

Several prisoners, who had been captured since
the ])roclamation of martial law, were tried and
shot ; and amongst them one of the most despe-
rate robbers in the island, who had, on more than
one occasion, broken prison, and for whose appre-
hension a reward had long previously been
offered. This individual was the most active
agent of, and an attendant upon, the pretender;
he died exclaiming, " If the king had had three
men about him as bold and determined as myself
he would have been master of Kandy."'

On the 4th of August, Dingeralle Hanguran-
ketty, who called himself the elder brother of the
pretender, was, with several of his followers,
taken prisoner by a party of the Ceylon rifles, in
the neighbourhood of Kurnegalle. Amongst these
was one Calle Banda, an ex ratramahatmeer,
who acted as adio-ar to Dini»;eralle, who had
assumed the title of king in the district of the
Seven Korles. This aspirant to royalty was shot
on the following day, under the sentence of a
court-martial. It is said to have been the inten-
tion of the two brothers, who were playing the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 373

parts of kings, to have united their followers at
Kurnegalle, which was frustrated by the un-
expected arrest of Dingeralle.

We find that happily the disturbances were
entirely confined to those districts where they
first broke out, and that the loss of life was also
limited to the unfortunate rebels. Several
hundred prisoners were taken, of whom one
hundred and twenty were tried by courts-martial :
eighteen of these were shot, twenty eight tran-
sported for various terms ; four were imprisoned
with hard labour; twenty-nine suffered corporal
punishment with imprisonment; thirty-three suf-
fered corporal punishment alone, and eight were
acquitted.

The Governor having excluded in the procla-
mation of martial law that portion of the town of
Kandy wherein the Court House is situate, a
special sitting of the Supreme Court was opened
on the 28th of August, by the Chief Justice, Sir
A. Oliphant. Of eighteen prisoners who were
arraigned for high treason, eight were convicted,
and the Queen's advocate abandoned the trials of
a similar number of prisoners on the same charge,
holding them over for minor offences to be tried
at the regular sessions, or gaol delivery. We
have much pleasure in giving the followino-
extracts from the Chief Justice's address in dis-
charging the jury at the close of the special
sittings, breathing as it does that humane spirit

374 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

which ought to be predominant in the breast of
every British judge. His Lordship having observed
that the crown prosecutor had informed him that
there were no more prisoners to be tried on that
occasion, said,

" It is now my duty, and I must say it is a
pleasant one, to thank yon in the name of the
country, and of the court, for the unwearied and
patient attention with which you have listened to
the court, the bar, and the witnesses, during the
investigation of these trials. Your verdicts have
invariably been thoseofmen of sound sense and dis-
cretion ; and, while you have thought it your duty
to support the laws and uphold the government
of this country in the proper discharge of your
functions, you have considered it also incumbent
upon you to make recommendations to mercy,
which will be backed by me, and I hope they
will be allowed to have their due weight in the
proper quarter.

" I am myself determined to recommend all
the prisoners to the merciful consideration of the
government, and thus go a step even further than
the jury have done. I have attended to all the
cases brought for trial, which perhaps some of
you may not have been in a position to do, from
not having sat upon the trial of all the cases ;
and I think I can perceive with tolerable clear-
ness the cause of this rebellion, and I venture to
express my belief, that the origin of it is the

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 376

feeling remaining in the minds of the people that
they are a conquered nation. It may not be the
immediate cause, and the feeling may principally
exist amongst the local and petty headmen, who
are discontented because they have not a govern-
ment of their own — the original government.
They have not arrived at a participation of our
feelings, and do not see the superiority of our
government, nor the benefit of our free institu-
tions ; but, on the contrary, would restore their
old laws and institutions.

" It is quite possible that the imposition of new
taxes fanned the flame, and precipitated them
into the commission of this crime. The petty
headmen availed themselves of this opportunity,
to revive old feelings ; which in fact had never
been lost sight of, but I trust this will never occur
again ; indeed, I may say I feel confident there
will be no more rebellions of this sort.

" The people must see that any attempt against
the British government is now a hopeless one,
and, as a witness said yesterday, ' that thereby
they will only lose their lives."* For, as deposed to
by Lieutenant Annesly, only eleven men marched
out of Kurnegalle, and of these only two had
shewed themselves, when the three or four thousand
Kandians assembled in their front ran away ;
there can therefore be little fear for future occur-
rences. But we must not teach our subjects to
fight, war is an art too easily learnt.

376 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

" The legislature, I am confident, will only
enact, in a paternal spirit, such laws and regula-
tions as will prove beneficial to the subject ; and
I trust they will send the schoolmaster amongst
the peojile, who will educate them in the arts of
peace, and teach them the sin and folly of taking
up arms against lawful authorities. The duty of
the governing and governed is mutual, the one
paternal, and the other allegiant.

"There is a largo portion of this country, whose
■wants and circumstances are quite unknown,
where no European has been seen for thirty
years, except upon some liunting expedition. It
is not only expedient but necessary for us to
teach the inhabitants of these districts, that the
white man has been sent here, not only to impose
and collect taxes, but to elevate the moral and
intellectual character of the people.

" The duty of a juror is a most important one
to the community. It is the bulwark of justice
and liberty ; and upon it depends the due admi-
nistration of justice. The prisoner's counsel will
sometimes press hard upon the jury for the ac-
quittal of his client, and the counsel for the crown
will, on the other hand, urge them for a convic-
tion, while the judge may very often take an
improper view of the case, for he is not exempt
from human infirmity.

" It is then to the sound sense of the jury alone
that the country must look for discrimination.

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 377

All rests with the jury. It is for them to weigh
the guilt and innocence of the prisoner ; and I
can only express in conclusion my own hope, that
all future juries in this country will weigh the
cases which may be brought before them, with
the same care and attention, as you have bestowed
upon those which have been tried during the
present sessions."

In conformity with the opinion expressed by
his lordship, the Chief Justice addressed the fol-
lowing despatch to the Governor : —

'' Colombo, September 23, 1848.

" My Lord, — I have the honour to transmit
herewith notes of evidence, sentence of the court,
recommendation to mercy by the jury, and cer-
tain petitions, in the case of the Queen v. Pene-
lebodde Kuralle and others, and marked No. 2.

" Also notes of the evidence, sentence of the
court, and recommendation to mercy by the jury,
in the case of the Queen v. Tunamalua Kekooa
Banda Karale, and another, marked No. 3.

" Also notes of the evidence, sentence of the
court, recommendation to mercy by the jury,
and certain petitions, in the case of the Queen
V. Kandapulle Banda and others, and marked
No. 4.

" Also notes of the evidence, sentence of the
court, and recommendation to mercy by the jury,
in the case of the Queen v. Wijayasoondere Mu-

6

378 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

dianselay Appoohamy and others, and marked
No. 5. All cases of high-treason tried by me at
the sessions lately holden at Kandy, for the
special purpose of trying persons implicated in
the late rebellion.

" I have to report to your excellency that the
several convictions in the said cases respectively
were obtained in due coui'se of law. I have also
to state that I recommend as fit and proper
objects for your excellency's clemency, as far as
regards the punishment of death, not only all the
persons recommended by the jury for the reasons
given by them, but also all the prisoners who
have been found guilt}^

" The most culpable of these appear to me to
be Penelebodde Keerale, Warapitia Ettapolla
Banda, Kandapulle Banda, Wannenayeke Mu-
dianselagey Punchiralle, Wijaysoondere Mudian-
selay Appoohamy, and Kolambulamulle Mo-
hattelay Appohamy ; and under different circum-
stances, I should have recommended your excel-
lency to have executed such three or four of
those last mentioned as should, after minute inves-
tigation into their respective cases by the law-
officers of the crown, have appeared to have been
most guilty.

"To have carried out the last penalty against
these would have been necessary for the vindica-
tion of justice, order, and good government, and
for an example to others. But I find that that

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. 379

example has been already made. I learn that
some twenty persons have been already shot for
their share in this rebellion by the courts-mar-
tial ; I therefore think, when it is considered
that no one European has been put to death, —
that one soldier only has been wounded by the
rebels, — that no persons have appeared in war-
like array against the troops since the outbreaks
at Matele and Kurnegalle, — that the blood
which has been already spilt is sufficient for all
purposes, whether of vindication of the law, or
for example.

" I advise that the prisoners last above men-
tioned be transported for life, that the others, not
recommended to mercy by the jury, be trans-
ported for fourteen years ; and that those who
have been recommended be imprisoned and kept
to hard labour for such short periods as, after
consideration with the crown-lawyers, may be
deemed due to them respectively. I have, &c.,

(Signed) " A Oliphant, C. J.

" The Right Honourable Viscount Torrington."

It is with deep regret that we feel ourselves
called upon to supply the render with the answer
of the Governor to the foregoing recommenda-
tion of the Chief Justice ; conceiving it as we do
so much at variance with that spirit of justice
tempered with mercy, which should be the cha-
racteristic attribute of the crown, or the crown's
representative.

380 CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE.

"The Queen's House, Colombo, September 25, 1848.

" Sir, — I have the lionoiir to acknowledge
your letter of the 23rd instant, transmitting the
notes of evidence, and sentences of death passed
on the prisoners convicted of high treason at the
last session of the Supreme Court held at Kandy
for the special purpose of trying persons impli-
cated in the late rebellion,

" I have given to this communication, not only
the respectful attention becoming your high
authority, but that painful and anxious consider-
ation inseparable from the solemn question of life
and death, suggested by your recommendation of
all the prisoners for a commutation of punish-
ments. But, after soliciting the advice and
opinions of the Executive Council, it is with re-
luctance, that 1 feel myself unable to concur with
you in the propriety of that course towards some
of those men, convicted in due course of law, and
whose guilt has been so clearly established, that
the strict line of your duty, uninfiuenccd by other
considerations, would have led you, as you state,
to recommend to me to inflict on them the last
penalty of the law, in vindication of justice, order,
and good goveinment.

" These considerations, I must observe, are un-
connected with the judicial question on which it
was properly within your province to assist me
with your advice; but, irrespective of this, I am
compelled to say, that neither they nor the rea-

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE 381

soning founded on them, wliich has induced you
to adopt u different line in recommending- these
parties to mercy, has j)roduccd the same result in
my mind ; whilst at the same time such publicity
has unfortunately been given to your opinions on
this subject, as would involve the government in
embarrassment were 1 to set aside your recom-
mendation to mercy, and leave these individuals
for execution.

" On the other hand, I foresee much practical
inconvenience likely to result from this summary
review of all tlie })roceeding-s of the highest civil
tribunal in the Island, followed by a sweeping
moditication of its judgment upon men convicted
of the gravest offences known to our laws.

"Upon a deliberate calculation, however, of
the comparative evils of either course, and feeling
strongly the disadvantage at which I am placed
in acting on my own judgment, I have deemed it
best to lean to the side of mercy, and to adopt so
much of your recommendation as regards the
commutation of all capital punishments, substi-
tuting transportation for life in the instance of
those convicts, who have not been recommended
to mercy by the juries, and transportation for
fourteen years in all the other cases. I have, &c.,
(Signed) " Torrington.

" The Hon. Sir A. Oliphant, Kt., C. J."

END OF VOL. I. ^

LONDON :

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April 1, 1850.

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