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"CmCJiGO TO THE sea:'

Eia^ STEl Fi K

EXCURSIONIST

A COMPLETE GUIDE

♦^PrinEipaHEaslErn^SumniEr^HEsnrls^^

INCLUDING

afpd ^aguenay Sliv0t^, JWanftcaf and Qiicl>co,
fftc JY'civ ^ntjfand Sea ^cacflc^, etc.,

HDIAZ" AND IffHEN TD ENJDY THEM.

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By William C. Gage,

Al'THOR OF "THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA," "HAND-BOOK OF TH.V»'rt," " TtR A^tltB R-F,|0
OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST," "GOOD BEHAVIOR AT HOME VXD AKKiJAl'," Ell.

Battle Creek, Mich
REVIEW & HERALD STEAM PRINTING
New York: Union News Company

1883.

CO PYRIGHTED

X 8 8 3,

BY \VM. C. GAGE.

Gr\^

->N03FEg^II^lf^0DaCT0RY.^

I.— EASTWARD HO!

HILE it is true that tlie great
tide of travel, like tlie " star of
empii'e," is ever westward, and
the ii'on-bound highways lead-
ing toward the setting sun are
the channels through which this
current surges with ever-increas-
ing volume, yet like those of the
ocean, this tide has its ebb as
well as flow. The business re-
lations which exist between the
East and the West render nec-
" essary a constant intercommuni-

cation, which of itself is suflicient to account for much of the returning
travel. In addition to this, the social relations also exert their influ-
ence. The man who " went West " to make his fortune desires to
revisit the home of his youth on the Eastern hillside. Perhaps his
children, who have grown up on the prairies, wish to see the hills and
valleys so often described by their parents, and contrast the almost
boundless expanses of the " great West " with the rugged moimtain
scenery and the rocky farms, where unceasing toil, coupled, perhaps,
with honest povei'ty, laid the foundation for sterling integrity, which
the ease and freedom of Western life have not served to obliterate.

The attractions of the natural scenery of the East are of themselves
sufficient to call to them annually thousands of tourists, who, independ-
ently of the causes already mentioned, occupy their " summer vaca-
tions" with an Eastern tour simply for the enjoyment of the attractions
presented in the way of pleasant routes of travel, and the scenery to
be enjoyed on the way or at the objective point of the journey.

With a view of meeting the wants of this great and constantly
increasing class of exciirsionists, this work has been written. It is
designed to point out the most desirable roiites between Chicago and
the Eastern seaboard, and to serve as a book of ready reference by the

b INTRODUCTORY.

way. The lines of travel chosen are such as will give the tourist the
most favorable opportunities for visiting the celebrated summer resorts
en 7'oitte, and secure the advantages of palace coaches, dining cars,
quick transit, and siire connections, — considei'ations which combine to
make a journey enjoyable, and by means of which a trip becomes a
luxury as a means as well as an end.

The descriptions are made simple and practical, and with no efibrt
to impart a roseate hue to the scenes described, but with a view to aid
the tourist in "seeing with his own eyes" the beauties of landscape or
other scenery from the most favorable points of observation, and dis-
cover for himself the things too often seen only through the medium
of the guide book.

II.— SUMMER TRAVEL.

The benefits arising from a summer jaunt, with its release from the
cares of business, are of inestimable value. "Work and worry" are
killing hundreds who might be saved to long life and happiness could
they but bi-eak away from their toil for a trip to the mountains or sea-
side, or some other place where business could for the time be forgotten.
Though the respte be only a brief one, a break in the monotony of a
busy life will sometimes relieve the tension which if too long continued
snaps asunder the strings which need relaxation to preserve their
strength.

The man who esteems his life work too important to admit of va-
cations sometimes learns, when too late for remedy, that unremitting
application to his task has totally disqualified him for its continuance,
and long before the period when he ought to be in his prime, he is
compelled to relinquish to others the work he so fondly hoped to finish
himself. A little relaxation now and then might have saved him from
a collapse, but "he could n't afibrd the time."

Happily for the American business world, the infection of "summer
travel" grows more and more contagious as its benefits become better
understood. Year by year the tide increases in volume, and the facil-
ities of travel are multiplied to meet the demand. If these jmges
shall serve to assist the tourist in the choice of his route, or, the choice
being made, in rendering his journey moi*e enjoyable, their purpose
will be fully met.

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THE STARTING POINT.

HICAGO, the gi-eat metropolis of tlie Northwest, with its
multitude of railroad lines, and its enormous commercial
interests, is most naturally the point of departure for
east-bound touiists. Travelers from localities west of
Chicago will desire to tarry in the city for a brief period,
to visit its water-works, the grand exposition building, and
and the variety of other objects of interest which render
the place attractive to strangers. In carrying out this
purpose, they will lind the hotel accommodations of the
city to be second to none in America. The Grand Pacific,
Palmer, Clifton, Briggs, Sherman, Merchants, and a host
of others of good repute, invite the tourist to share their
hospitalities, with the assurance of regal fcxi-e and sumptuous
accommodations. For full information in regard to Chicago
hotels and their terms, the reader is referred to the Daily
National Hotel Reporter, which gives reliable and complete advices on
this subject.

The limits of this work forbid even a mention of the many objects
of interest to be seen in Chicago ; and having to do with the city only
as the starting point for our tourist, we next settle the question as to
tlie route by which our Eastern journey is to be performed. Keeping
in view the important points of speed, safety and comfort, together
with the attractiveness of the scenery en route, we tind the claims of

THE MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD

To be of a character to meet all the requirements of the most exacting
traveler. It has long been known as the Niagara Falls Route, and
its recent acquirement of the Canada Southern Railway, making now
a continuous line from Chicago to the very verge of the famous cata-
ract, more fully than ever entitles it to that appellation. Its through
sleeping-car connections, its siiperior equipment, its famous dining-cars,
together with the attractive country which it traverses, and the many
interesting points reached by it, all combine to decide the question of
superiority, and influence the tourist in his choice of routes.

8 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

The traveler ariiving in Chicago by other roads, and not desiring
to tarry in the city, can be immediately transferred by Parmelee's
omnibus line to the depot of the Michigan Central, at the foot of Lake
street, and taking his seat in a Wagner drawing-room car, commence
his journey with baggage checked through to destination, and with
the assurance that his comfort will be carefully considered on the
part of the train employes from the beginning of his trip to tlie end of
the road.

THE CELEBRATED FAST EXPRESS

Of this road leaves Chicago in the afternoon, and as all first-class
tickets are accepted on this train without extra chai'ge, it is a favorite
with the traveling public. In the season of summer travel, it is a
popular tourists' train, on account of its timely arrival at Niagara,
allowing the excursionist to spend the entire day at the Falls, and take
the evening train for the Bt. Lawrence Kiver, which is reached at
Clayton the next morning. From this point, the elegant day boats of
the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company make the trip down the river
to Montreal, via Round Island Park, the celebrated Thous:ind Islands,
the famous Rapids, and past the most lovely scenery of this beautiful
river, which stoutly contests with the Hudson the claim to the title of
the " Rhine of America." Tiie entire journey is by daylight, the
boats reaching Montreal at 6 p. m. This trip, which will be more fully
described in its proper place, constitutes one of the delightful features
of the excursion "to the sea," and has been immensely popiilarized by
the efforts of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company, which is the
only line down the St. Lawrence running boats exclusively for passen-
ger service. It has won its way to the favor of the traveling public in
the two past years of successful operation, being popularly known as
the New American Line.

But to return to the point of digression. Leaving Chicago by any
of the express trains of the Michigan Central, the tourist has at his
service all the facilities which make pleasant a journey by rail. The
celebrated Wagner drawing-room and sleeping cars are run through to
New York and Boston without change, dining cars are attached to the
trains at convenient hours for meals, and courteous and attentive con-
ductors, train men, porters, etc., contribute to the comfort and pleasure
of the traveler as occa.sion presents for their services.

The ride out of the city and through the suburbs for a considerable
distance is along the shores of Lake Michigan, presenting views of the
lake craft, with their white sails, or clouds of smoke and vapor from
their stacks, as far as the eye can reach. The government pier, with
its protecting wall, stretches along the shore, and in the distance may
be seen the "crib" of the water- works.

On the other hand, the Douglas monument and park present them-
selves to view, together with numerous interesting objects peculiar to
the suburbs of a great city, until, increasing its speed, the train passes

THE DINING-CAR SYSTEM.

fairly into the open countiy, whicli is here and tliere dotted witli a
siibiirban residence, or the buiklings of some thrifty farmer, or per-
chance a pretty viUage, whose inhabitants have their business interests
in Chicago, but their homes in the quiet suburbs of the bustling city.

Fifteen miles out, we pass the charming town of Pullman, a model
settlement, sometimes called the "magic city," with its elegant build-
ings, all of brick, in the most ajaproved styles of architecture. Its
important industrial enterprises are largely connected with the interests
of travel, comprising the Allen paper car- wheel shops, the Pullman car
manufactory, and various other establishments which contribute to the
pi'osperity of this flourishing town.

At about this stage of the jonrney, if on board the Fast Express,
or the later train known as the Atlantic, the tourist is greeted with
the welcome announcement, from a man in white cajj and apron, look-
ing as though he had just stepped in from the Palmer House cafe,

"DINNER NOW READY IN THE DINING CAR."

Among the modei-n comforts of railway traveling, the dining-car
system takes a prominent plnce. The hasty scramble for refreshments
at a wayside restaurant, with
the constant fear of "getting
left," and a consequent bolt-
ing of half- masticated food,
with dyspepsia in its train,
now gives place to a leisurely
eaten meal, served in elegant
style, with all the ajtpoint-
ments and conveniences that
can be suggested by the most
refined taste. The Michigan
Central was among the first
to ado[)t this innovation, and
so iiopular has it become as
an adjunct to their already
long list of popular features,
that they have recently con-
structed four of these elegant
hotels upon wheels, and placed
them upon their line between
Chicago and Niagara Falls. These dining cars are models of taste,
elegance and convenience, with spacious kitchens, store rooms and
lavatories, large plate-glass windows, folding or opera chairs, and in
fact every convenience that taste and experience could suggest for the
comfort of their patrons.

A glance at the mentb, which is as complete as that of a first-class
hotel attests the fact that the gratification of its patrons, and not profit

10 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

to its treasiuy, is the first great aim of the company in opei-ating the
dining-car system. Indeed, it may well be questioned how such elegant
meals can be furnished for the sum of seventy-live cents, when a simi-
lar repast at many a hotel in the land would cost from one to two
dollars. Perhaps a solution of the problem may be found in the re-
mai'k of a shrewd Yankee, who once sat opposite the writer at tal)le in
one of these cars. He had evidently fasted for many hours jii-evious,
as his voracious appetite clearly indicated. On rising from tlie table,
he soliloquized thus : "Well, I guess this concern han't made much out
o' me this time, but I shall alius come by this route hereafter." ,

The dining-car system is also in successful operation on the Canada
division of the Michigan Central, the equipments and a|)j)ointments
being of the same character and completeness. Indeed, so popular has
this feature become, that several other cars are in course of construc-
tion to extend the system in a manner to meet every demand of the
public for accommodation in this direction.

But while we have been thiis indulging in retlections on this sub-
ject, the train has been speeding onward, and here we are at Michigan
City, on the extreme southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the great
lumber port of Northern Indiana. It is a railroad center of some im-
jjortance, the Indianapolis, Peru k Chicago, and Louisville, New Al-
V)any & Chicago Railroads occupying the union depot with the Mich-
igan Central. The population is about eight thousand, and its princi-
pal business interests are manufacturing and lumber. The view of the
city from the car windows gives a less favorable impression of the
place than a 'closer inspection entitles it to, the immense sand bluffs
and unpretending buildings on the lake shore being the most conspic-
uous objects near the track. The city proper is quite an attractive and
pleasant locality. Its chief hotels are the 8t. Nicholas, Union and
Jewell.

Ten miles further eastward, we reach New Buffalo, the southern
terminus of the Chicago tk West Michigan Bailroad, which from this
point skii'ts the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, forming the shore line
to Pentwater. It is a pretty little town of about one thousand
inhabitants.

Passing several stations at which the express trains make no stop,
twenty miles further on we reach Niles, a flourishing city of nearly
five thousand inhabitants.

The Michigan Central has a branch road i-unning from this point
to South Bend, and it is also the western terminus of its "Air Line "
division, the other being Jackson. Much of the freight luisiness of the
road is done over this division, relieving the main line for the better
accommodation of its immense passenger traffic. Mercantile and man-
ufacturing interests occujiy the attention of the thriving people of Niles,
a superior water power furnishing excellent facilities for ffour and paper
mills and other enterprises, which combine to make this an important
business center. Its leading hotels are the Bond, Pike and Farler.

IMPURTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE. 11

At Lawton, tliirty-oiie miles from Niles, connection is made vvitli
the Paw Paw Railroad for Hartford, Lawrence and Paw Paw. The
express trains do not stop, however, but, hurrying onward, the next
important station is that so well known as the " Big Village."

Kalamazoo, with a i)opulation of about twelve thousand, and no
city charter, prides itself on being one of the largest villages in
America. Except in its municipality, however, it is, to all intents and
purjioses, a city, with its extensive public works, its thriving manufact-
uring establishments, and its imjjortant railroad intei-ests. The South
Haven division of the Michigan Central exteiids westward from here
to the shore of Lake Michigan. Intersection is also made with the
Orand Rapids it Indiana Raih-oad and the Kalamazoo division of the
Lake Shore Railway. The manufacturing and mercantile interests of
Kalamazoo are quite extensive, and it has also acquired no little celeb-
rity as a mai-ket for su})erior agricultural products. Its leading hotels
are the Burdick House, Kalamazoo House and American House.

Battle Creek, twenty-three miles east of Kalamazoo, is the next
important city on the route, and is one of the most thriving and enter-
prising towns in the State. Many of its business interests are on an
extensive scale, notably the manufacture of threshing machinery and
engines, three large establishments being devoted to this industry.
On ajtproaching the city the buildings of the Review rf' Herald Pub-
lishing establishment ai'e among the first to attract attention, and just
before the train comes to a. halt, it passes the shops of the Battle
Creek Machinery Company, which are on the left of the track,
while the factory of the Union School Furniture Company is nearly
O])posite, on the right. The products of the forjner company are
shipped to all parts of the world, while the "Automatic" school-seat is
jxcciuiring a national reputation as one of the most convenient and
unique articles of furniture ever put in use in a school-room.

The intersection of the Michigan Central, the Chicago k. Grand
Trunk, and the Toledo k Milwaukee Railroads, the latter just com-
pleted, renders Battle Creek an important railroad center, and accounts
for the rapid and prosperous growth of the city. This is also the loca-
tion of the

CELEBRATED MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM,

Which has gained an enviable reputation as an invalid's home. Al-
though not originally designed as a summer resort, its facilities in that
direction have made it a favorite summer home for many who would
liardly call themselves invalids. Here may be found a remedy for one
great drawback to the success of summer vacations in general, which
are often robbed of much of their sanitary benefit by poor food and in-
attention to the laws of health. While the caisine of this establish-
ment is of the most bounteous character, it is especially ordered with
reference to healthfulness, and is in itself one imj^ortant element of the
great siiccess of the institution in curing the sick.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

The facilities of the Sanitarium for the treatment of disease are the
best known to modern medical science. In addition to baths of eveiy
description, including Tnrkisli, Russian, vapor, electro-vapor, thermal.

etc., the employment of massage, Swedish movements, and the various
forms of electrical treatment, are provided for by costly appliances,
some of which were designed expressly for this institution. When we
add that the medical superintendent, Dr. J. H. Kellogg, is a member
of the State Board of Health, and occupies a position of great prom-

IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONG THE LINE. 13

inence as a writer and lectui"er on sanitary matters, and that a staff of
educated and intelligent gentlemen and lady physicians are constantly
caring for patients and visitors, we have indicated some of the reasons
for the mai'velous prosi)erit\ of the institution. Our illustration gives
a view of the main building. A large numlier of cottages and other
buildings make up the facilities of the SANiTAUirii for taking care of
its guests.

The leading hotels of Battle Creek are the Lewis House and the
Williams House, the Sanitarium being also a favorite transient home
Avith many travelers.

Shortly after leaving the station at Battle Creek, the train comes
to a halt at the crossing of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway, at
the station named Nichols, the location of the extensive works
where are maniifactiired the celebrated Nichols, Shepard & Co.'s " Vi-
brator " threshing machinery, engines, etc. This is one of the most
important industries of the city, giving employment to a large number
of skilled mechanics. Just beyond are the railroad shops of the C. &
G. T. Company, which also furnish employment to a goodly number of
men.

Marshall, the next important station, is a pleasant little town, the
county seat of Calhoun county, with some maniifacturing interests, and
considerable wealth, being the center of a large and prosperous agricul-
tural district. It is widely known among travelers as the dining station
of the Michigan Central Railroad. The day trains still make their
stops here for dinner, and the hours of midday are among the liveliest
the people of this quiet place witness. It is the boast of the managei's
of the dining-i'ooms that a faihire to provide chicken pie foi- their
guests has- occurred but once in seventeen years, although fabulous
prices often have to be paid for the feathered bipeds to perpetuate the
time-honored custom.

The Tontine, Forbes and Ti'emont Houses are the principal hotels.

Albion is the next town of much imjjortance in our journey, and is
really a thriving place, some of its manufactures being widely known.
It is also the seat of Albion College, a flourishing denominational school,
imder the management of the Methodists. Our road here intersects the
Lansing division of the Lake Shore Railway. The princi])al hotels of
Albion are the Commercial and the Albion House.

Our fiext important station is Jackson, the largest city in the inte-
rior of the State. As the central point of heavy railroad interests,
important manufactures, and extensive coramei-cial enterprises, the city
is well known. The State ]irison is located liere. and is of itself a
manufacturing establishment of no little importance. The railroad
shops of the Michigan Central give employment to nearly a thousand
men, and thus contribute largely to the city's jHOsperity. The mineral
resources of the vicinity are of no small magnitude, comprising coal,
salt, tire clay, etc.

It is the terininus of the Grand River Yallev, Air Line, and Sagi-

CHICAUU TO THE SEA.

naw divisions of the Michigan Central Raih'oad and the Fort Wayne
and Jackson branches of the Lake Shoie and Michigan Southern Rail-
way. Passengers cliange here for the ])leasure resorts of northern
Michigan, via the Mackinaw Division of the Central, with which con-
nection is maile at Bay City.

The Hibbard House, the Hnrd Honse, the Commercial, and several
smaller hotels, take good care of travelers who have occasion to tarry
in Jackson.

Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, the train halts at Ann Arbor,
the county seat of Washtenaw county, which has a resident population
of about ten thousand, not including the stndents ol" the State Univer-
sity, which number nearly hfteen hundi-ed. The city is pleasantly sit-
iiated on both sides of the Huron River, its streets being wide, finely-
laid out, and adorned with shade trees. The Toledo, Ann Arbor k,

UNIVEHSITV OF MICHIGAN.

Gi-and Ti-unk Railway gives the place a north and south bxisiness out-
let, while the Central takes care of the east and west business. The
Huron River furnishes excellent water power, and the flourishing in-
dustries of the city show how well it is improved.

In addition to all these, its reputation as an educational center
places it among the most important of Michigan citi-s. Its local ])ub-
lic schools are of a high order of excellence, especially its High School,
which occupies an elegant building costing !:?o(»,()0i). But its chief
importance in this respect is from the fact of its being the seat of the
University of Michigan, with its depai'tments of litei'ature, science and
arts, law, medicine, pharmacy, dental sxn-gery, and engineering. This-
institution has almost a world-wide reputation as one of the foremost

IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE.

schools in the land, and indeed many of its students ax-e from aliroad,
attracted by its fame, and the excellent facilities at their command.

The St. James, Cook, and Leonard Houses, are the principal hotels.

Ypsilanti, eight miles distant from Ann Arbor, is the next stop-
ping place, and is a pleasant town of some live thousand inhabitaiits.
The line water power of Hnron River is here utilized by several manu-
factoi'ies, among which that of paper-making is brought to a high state
of excellence. In addition to the railroad facilities aftbrded by the
Michigan Central, it has southerly communication by means of a
branch of the Lake Shore & Michiiran Southern Railwav. It is the

STATE NORMAL SCHOOL.

seat of the State Normal School, which occupies an elegant building,
and beautiful groimds, the latter donated to the State for the purpose.
There are many line residences here, some of them the homes of busi-
ness men of Detroit.

The Roberts, Lewis, and Hawkins Houses, the European, and sev-
eral others, furnish adequate hotel accommodations.

From Ypsilanti, the train speeds swiftly over the smoothest of
tracks, past pleasant villages, through verdant fields, and in view of
snug farm-houses, the next important stopping places being Wayne
Junction, where connection is made with the Flint &. Pere Marquette
Railroad, and Springwells, formerly Grand Trunk Junction, three
miles beyond which is

DETROIT, THE CITY OF THE STRAIT.

The largest city in Michigan, and its commercial metropolis, it is
beautifully situated on the Detroit River, 18 miles from Lake Erie,
and 7 from Lake St. Clair. It is one of the prettiest, pleasantest cities
in all the West, and the oldest, as well. Its rapid gi'owth during the
past twenty years is a marked feature in connection with its history.
The many lines of railroad centering here, and its extensive commercial
interests, togethei' with the rich agricultural region which here finds an
outlet for its products, all contribute to the prosperity of the city.

16 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

The exci^rsionist will fin'd mucli to interest in a visit to Detroit.
Its location upon tlie river, which is here about half a mile wide, sug-
gests excursions by w^ater, which constitute a considerable share of the
recreation of its people, by the numerous lines of steamers which ply
between the city and various points on the river and the lakes. The
public parks of the city aiibrd pleasant " breathing places " for those
■who choose to avail themselves of their advantages. In addition to
the older resorts of this class, the city has recently pitrchased Belle
Isle, with an area of about 800 acres, and a pai"k commission are en-
gaged in the work of improvement, the result of which will be the pro-
viding of a place of recreation for citizens and visitors, comparing fa-
vorably with the parks of any of the large cities. Boats leave at
frequent intervals for the Island, from the foot of Woodward Avenue.

To notice the many attractions which tempt the tourist to prolong
his stay in the beautiful City of the Strait would require too much of
our space. We can only add that the resources of the vicinity in the
■way of entertainment and recreation are ample, and of sufficient variety
to render a visit to the city an occasion of much enjoyment. The hotel
facilities are unexcelled, comprising fifty or more, including the Antis-
del, Brunswick, Griswold, Madison, Michigan Exchange, Rice's Tem-
perance, St. Charles, Russell, and a variety of lesser houses, at all
prices. At those above mentioned, the terms range from f 1 to $3.50
per day.

CROSSING THE FERRY.

Continuing our eastward journey from Detroit, the river is crossed
to the Canada shore by means of the ferry, and the transhipment of
the train is an operation of much ititerest to one who observes it for
the first time. The mammoth transfer boat, capable of holding, in
several sections, the long passenger train, is securely fastened to the
dock, and the cars are run on, with theii" load of passengers and
baggage. The powerful machinery of the boat is set in motion, and in
a few moments the train is again made up at Windsor, on the Canada
side, ready to proceed on its way.

Windsor, the western terminus of the Canada division of tiie
Michigan Central Railroad, is a floux-ishing town of about eight thou-
sand inhal)itants directly across the river from Detroit. The town of
Sandwich, two miles below, has some celebrity as a summer resort on
account of its mineral springs.

The chief interest of the American tourist iii regard to Canada,
however, is in getting through it. While there are many things worthy
of note in connection with the homes of our cousins over the border,
they are best appi-eciated by a longer tarry than can be afforded by the
excursionist who makes a flying trip between the West and the East.
The prejudice of the native American, so frequently manifested against
everything Canadian, is often as unfounded as it is unreasonable. To
be sure, the difference between Canada and the States in habits and

THE ROUTE THROUGH CANADA. 17

customs is sometimes quite marked, but frequently not more so than
that existing between different sections of our own country. The rail-
road is doing much toward the annihilation of all these differences, by
facilitating intercourse and the comingling of the peojile of all sections.
The trip through Canada is via the Canada division, formerly the

CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY,

And is the only line through Canada under distinctiively American man-
agement. While the Michigan division of the road conti-ibutes a lai-ge
amount of local business, even to the express ti-ains, the less populous
districts of Canada are sufficiently accommodated by the local trains,
allowing the through expresses to make long and rapid runs, with few
stops. The fast New York express, for instance, is timed to make the
run from Windsor to St. Thomas, a distance of 111 miles, with only a
single stop, about midway. The level country through which the
road passes, with the long stretches of air'; line, many miles in extent,
are conducive to smooth and i'a})id running, and in this respect amply
compensates for any lack of beauty in the natural scenery. There are,
however, some quite interesting sections of country on the route.

St. Thomas, about midway of the line, is a city of some eight or
nine thoiisand inhabitants, and of considerable importance as a railroad
center. We here cross the Great Western division of the Grand
Trunk, and connect with the St. Clair division of the Michigan Central,
and the Ci'edit Valley Railway for Toronto. The leading hotels are
the Commercial, Queens, Hutchinson, Wilcox and Lisgar.

At Niagara Junction the train divides, and that portion having
Buffalo for its objective 2"»oint, proceeds, by way of Fort Erie and Black
Bock, to the Union Depot in Buffalo, while the other ])ortion goes to
America's greatest pleasure resort via the ISiagara- Falls division of
the road.

Should the tourist choose to lirst visit Buflalo, he may proceed to
the Falls by later trains, which run at frequent intervals during the
day between the two points.

THE CITY OF BUFFALO

Is of interest to the excursionist as one of the most important com-
mercial centers west of New York City, and the focus of a large num-
ber of railroads. It has a magniticent harbor, one of the best on the
whole chain of lakes, its water front extending about five miles, half on
Lake Erie and half on Niagara Biver. Its grain elevators, some
thirty in all, have a storage capacity of nearly six millions of bushels,
and are capable of transferring a])Out half that amount every twenty-
four hours. As the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and with its
lake shipping and railroad facilities, it has become the largest grain
port in America, with the single exception of New York City.

The traveler who may wish to prolong his stay in Buffalo will find
a multitude of hotels, of all deei'ees of excellence.

JilBliii; jiill!lk.jiil»irj«lBk..iiilllltii!; jiillllliir. .mllllk alkjiilSiir. jOir^^iill'Ik.iiiftrjiillIlInr /

^•^» Niagara Falls. w#-

"W *lillF"^"!iaF"^i|ll«'^ 'I'JillF aii|j]»ir:;iij|j||ir-ji»|j[ic ■jii||j[n- •j«]|j||iit ]iii|;|Nr]

all the pleasure- resorts on the
American continent, probably
none receive annually so many
visitors as the famous cataract
where the waters of the upper
lakes so grandly plunge over
the precipice on their way to
Lake Ontario. The reasons for
this are, doubtless, first, the
wonderful atti-activeness of the
Falls as an object of interest,
;ind, secondly, their ease of ac-
cess, and the consequent facility with which they may be visited. Sit-
uated upon the main thoroughfare between the East and the West,
over which such a constant tide of travel is surging throughout the
entire year, it requires biit little sacrifice of time on the part of many
to pay them a visit. Biit these are merely the casual \ isitors, in addi-
tion to whom thousands annually come from all ])arts of the land, and
from over the ocean, to gaze upon this far-famed catai-act.

We design to give in this chapter such facts as shall serve as a
complete guide for the tourist in visiting this resort, not only to all the
points of interest, but such other information as shall render his visit
enjoyable. Before entering into particiilars, we present a general de-
scription of Niagara, in a comprehensive view, which will assist the
reader in understanding the several detailed descriptions which follow.
Niagara River is the outlet of Lake Erie, connecting it with On-
tario, the lowest in the great chain of lakes, which unitedly are the
largest inland resei'voirs in the world. The river is only '.\'S miles in
length, and the total descent in that distance is 334 feet, Lake Ontario
being that much lower than Erie, which is 565 feet above sea level.
About a mile above the Falls the waters commence to descend with
great velocity, constituting what is known as the Rapids, second in in-
terest only to the Falls themselves, and adding to the interest of the
latter by giving such an increased velocity to the water in its plunge
over the precipice. The total descent in this mile is 52 feet, and the

NIAGARA FALLS. 19

waters come rushing and tumbling along the rocky bed of the stream,
which is Ixere considerably narrower than its general channel above.

Jiist above the Falls ai'e several small islands, connected by a sys-
tem of bridges with one another and the American shore, and affording
a matrniticent view of the Eajdds. Standins; on one of the bridges, or
the upper shoi"e of an island, and looking up the stream, the view pre-
sented is grand and impressive, as the resistless torrent seems ready to
overwhelm all in its course.

These islands, combined with a sharp cuive in the course of the
stream, widen the channel to about 4,750 feet, one-fourth of which is
occupied by Goat Island, the largest of the group, which here extends
to the extreme verge of the precipice, and divides the stream and the
Falls into two distinct parts.

The American Fall is about 1,1()0 feet wide, and the remaimler, or
Canada fall, aboxit double the width, although from its curved or horse-
shoe shape the line of the brink is considerably longer than the direct
breadth.

Our illustration pi-esents a tine view of the American Fall from
below, looking nortliward. The waters here make a sheer descent of
164 feet, while the height of the Canjidian Fall is from 12 to 14 feet
less, owing to the lengthening of the Rapids and the curve of the stream.

The vohime of water in the Canada Fall is much greater, however,
than that of the American, and the impetus given by the Rapids carries
the water over the precipice with great velocity, and it foi'ms a grand
curve in the descent, falling clear of the rocky wall into the bed of the
river below. The lower strata of this wall being of a loose, shaly
character, the action of the spray has hollowed it out, so that between
the wall of rock and the descending wall of water, a, cavernous space
exists, into which the tourist may ventiire by a rocky and somewhat
periloiis path from the Canada side. It is needless to add that a
water-pioof sxiit adds materially to the comfort of those who thus
venture. Similar trips may be made under the American Fall, which
will be duly described in detail.

Below the Falls, on the American side, is a stairway and an in-
clined-plane railway, leading to the water's edge, and connecting with
a ferry which here crosses to the Canada shore by means of small
boats, amid the spray and over the turbixlent waters, not yet at rest
from their mighty plunge.

The banks below the Falls are very high and precijntous, and the
channel contracts to less than a thousand feet, varying in the descent
to Lake Ontario, from 200 to 400 yards.

The entire river, from its source to its mouth, is an interesting
geological study. The changes that have taken place in the formation
of its banks, and the topography of the country through which it
passes, furnish much food for conjecture, upon which several theories
have been constructed, one of which seems to be quite xmiversally
adopted, viz., that the Falls have gradually receded from a point below

AMERICAN FALL, FROM BELOW,

NIA(JARA FALLS. 21

tlieii- present location, some say as far down as the high bhitl' at Lewis-
ton, seven miles from Lake Ontario.

This recession is clue to the action of the water upon the sections of
the I'ocky bed which have successively formed the verge of the cataract,
and which have doubtless varied in character along the course of the
river. The action of the spray and the violence of the rebounding
waters, combined perhaps with other causes, wore away the softer,
shaly substratum, imtil the harder but thinner upper sti-atum could no
longer siippox't tlie massive weight and resist the velocity of the waters,
and fell into the channel below. This theory is abimdantly supported
not only by the appearance of the Falls and the channel, but by sev-
eral occurrences of exactly this chai-acter. In 1818, massive fragments
fell from the American fill, and in 1828 a like occurrence took place in
the Horseshoe Fall, in each instance producing a concussion like an
earthqiiake.

A view of the Falls by Father Hennepin, made in the year 1678,
presents the feature of a distinct fall on the Canada side, somewhat
like that on the American side, or nearly at right angles with the main
ftill. This was occasioned by a great rock, which divided the current
and turned a portion of it in that direction, and which has evidently
since fallen. (See engraving on page 36.)

How long a time would be required for the Falls to recede to Lake
Erie, is of course conjectiiral, as no data of sufficient reliability can Ije
established fi'om which to make a calculation. Indeed, it is believed
by some geologists that higher up the river the formation of the bed is
of such a character as to successfully resist the further encroachments of
the water in that direction, the hard formation being of greater depth
and tirmness.

But to the present generation Niagara Falls will remain an object
of gi'eat interest, and will doubtless continue to receive, as in the past^
the visits of great multitudes of tourists, either on account of their real
attractiveness, or because it is the fashion.

With this general view of the Falls, the reader will be pre))ared for
the details, which, taken together, make up the comprehensive whole,
and which constitiite a visit to Niagara an event re})lete with lasting
memories.

It detracts not a little fi'om the enjoyment of the spectator to tind
that at this resort the oriental demand for " backsheesh " prevails in
the modified form of tolls, fees, etc., and that tvhat is here enjoyed in
the line of sight-seeing must be paid for. Yet this is not to be won-
dered at when we consider that the parties who own the vantage
ground must thus reap from it a sustaining harvest. What is legiti-
mately demanded of the visitor in the way of tolls and admission fees
may be considered as a sine qua non, and should not in the least mar
his pleasure, as he receives in such cases a full equivalent for his
expenditure.

I'l CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

"TRICKS THAT ARE [NOT ALWAYS] VAIN."

There is one thing, however, which no tourist is prepared to meet
with composure, and which h.e will need to guard againt here, namely,
extortion, or an unexpected or unreasonalile demand for money in pay-
ment for services not contracted for nor supposed to be in the market.

HORSESHOE FALLS AND KAPIDS.

Much has been said and written about the extortions of Niagara hack-
men, until their practices have become a byword. In justice to some
of these individuals it should be said that there are among them hon-
orable men, who will do by you just as they agree, and will make no
effort to defraud. It is always safe, however, to make an agreement
with your driver as to the service he is to render you, and just what
you are to pay him in return. When the terms of yonr contract are
met, accejit no further service without 'understanding its cost.

NIAGARA FALLS. 23

The need of this precaution will be apparent from the following
fiicts. The lawful rate for carrying a })assenger from one ])oint to an-
other in the villages aboiit the Falls is tifty cents, or one dollar from
^•illage to village ; yet a driver Avill frequently offer to carry a
jiassenger for fen cents. Once in the carriage, however, he is urged to
see this and that ])oint of interest, and with the memory of the ten-cent
o.fer as a basis for prospective expenses, he often yields to the impor-
tunities of the hackman, until he finds to his dismay that he has run
up a bill, by the legal tariff, of from three to live dollai's. While the
man is charging him only what the law allows him to collect, the vic-
tim is chagrined at the method by which it is extorted from him, and
it rankles as an unpleasant memory in his otherwise pleasurable rec-
ollections of his visit.

We have been thus expli(;it in treating upon a suljject to which no
Niagara guide book we have ever seen gives more than a passing allu-
sion, in order that the tourist may know what to expect, and how to
meet it in the very outset. If you choose to accept of a hackman's "ten-
cent" ofier, be sure that you take no more than is "nominated in the'
liond," lest with the "pound of flesh " there come a drop of blood moi'e
costly than all the rest.

THE FIRST VIEW OF THE FALLS.

The approach to Niagara, by the line of the Michigan Central, is by
a route nearly parallel with the river, from above on the Canada shore,
and is beyond question, the best view to be had from any railroad train
conveying its passengers near the place. As the train draws near the
mighty cataract, the foaming rapids above the Falls burst upon the
view, as if to prepare the mind for the exhibition of resistless power to
l)e revealed in the grand plunge of waters into the abyss below.

In a few moments the ti'ain comes to a halt in full view of the Falls,
with the Horseshoe or Canada Fall in the foreground, and Goat Island
and the American Fall directly across the river, with the deep gorge
between through which the river flows, spanned by the new suspension
bridge. The picture thus presented is one of surpassing beauty.
While a nearer v^iew will impi-ess the mind more completely with the
sublime majesty of the cataract, the com})rehensi^•e grouping here pre-
sented will linger in the mind of a ti'ue lover of the beautiful, promi-
nent among the "pictures that hang on memory's wall."

The through passengers, who make no tarry at the Falls, remain in
the cars until the train arrives at Suspension Bridge, two miles below,
this arrangement continuing for the present season, until the comple-
tion of the new bridge now in process of erection by the Michigan Cen-
tral C'Ompany. When this structure is completed, the trains will cross
the river in full view of the Falls. This, in addition to the view now
obtained from the train, will ])rove a strong attraction to through trav-
elers, inducing them to come by this route..

CHICA(iO TO THE SEA.

NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO.

This village, formerly known as Clifton, extends along the Canada
shore of Niagara River, from near the Falls to the railroad sus})ension
bridge. The tourist who wishes to ins2)ect the cataract first from the
Canada side, leaves the train at Magara Falls station ; and slunild he
choose to find a temporary abiding place on the Canada side, he will
find several well-kept hotels, at prices varying according to accommo-

AMERICAN FALL, As rSEEN FKUM CANADA SIDE.

dations desired. The largest and most commodious of these is the
Clifton House, which has been open to the public for more than forty
years, and has established a reputation as in all respects a lirst-class
house.

The Prospect House is almost on the very verge of the Falls,
being located at Table Rock, and commands a tine view. The house
has an excellent reputation, its j)atrons being among the most cele-
brated of the visitors, both from America and abroad.

The Brunswick, located a little farther down the bank than the
house just mentioned, — ^just far enough, the proprietor claims, to be
fi'ee from the annoyance of mist and spray, biit sufficiently near to give
a beautiful prospect from its windows and balconies, — furnishes a
pleasant stopping place, less pretentious than some of its larger rivals,
but with all its appointments complete, and well calculated to promote
the comfort of its patrons. It can take good care of large or small
parties, and is indeed a desirable stop[)ing place for those who wish to
tarry for a single day, or for a longer jjeriod, the terms being moderate
and the fare excellent.

NIAGARA FALLS.

Other houses there are on this side, of which the limits of this work
forbid even a mention. Indeed, the provisions for the care of tourists
indicate that for a considerable portion of the year at least, that con-
stitutes by far the largest business of the dwellers in the vicinity.

The Canada shore can claim one point over all other localities in
the vicinity of the Falls, in being the only place where a good view of

TAJ3LE UOCK.

the cataract can be had -without the payment of toll or admittance fees.
The eft'ort now being made to create a public park on the ]!^ew York
shore, and thus secure similar piivileges in the " land of the free," is
attracting much attention from tourists. Its results ai-e as yet con-
jectural, but so much has the value of the property become enhanced
by the very practices which this plan proposes to abolish, it seems now
like a great undertaking to accomplish what a few years ago would
have been much more easily brought about.

There are opportunities, however, to pay fees on the Canada side,
and to receive an equivalent in return. A staircase leading to the foot
of the Horseshoe Fall, permits a tine view from l;)elow, and in addition

26 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

a visit to the cavernous recess under Table Rock and Horseshoe Fall.
For the latter excursion, watei-proof suits and the services of a guide
are necessary, and the experience is one long to be remembered.

TABLE ROCK.

Table Rock itself is an object of much curiosity. It is an overhang-
ing clitf, extending along the bank to the very junction with the Horse-
shoe Fall. Its shape and dimensions have been several times changed
within the memory and observation of the present generation, and "the
oldest inhabitants " remember it as projecting far beyond its present
limits. In July, 1818, a mass some thirty or forty feet wide, and
about one hundred and sixty feet in length, fell into the bed of the
river. In December, 1828, three sections, comprising a very large
portion of the overhanging clitf, and extending to the verge of the
Horseshoe Fall, broke otl' and fell with a terrible crash. In the slim-
mer of 1829, another large mass separated and fell, and in June, 18.50,
still another, the latter about 60 feet wide by. 200 long. The precipice
still hangs far out over the perpendicular, and with these losses in
view, the reader can readily imagine its appearance before the action of
the elements had robbed it of so much that made it celebrated.

Several other objects of interest are to be seen on the Canada side,
which Avill be mentioned further on in these pages, and we will now
proceed to a description of the principal objects of interest immediately
connected with the Falls. In crossing the river to the American
shore, the visitor has a choice of two methods. He may descend the
bank and cross by the ferry, or may go over the New Suspension
Bridge. If intending to return, he will do well to go over by the
bridge and i-e-cross by the ferry.

THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE.

This structure, although opened to the public in 1869, is still called
the new bridge, to distinguish it from its elder brother, two miles
below. Previous to the construction of the New York and Brooklyn
bridge, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, its roadway
being 1,300 feet in length, and its cables 1,800 feet long. It is 190
feet above the river, being suspended from two towers, each 100 feet in
height. Access may be had to the interior of the towers, and very tine
views are obtained from their summits.

From the bridge itself a magnificent view of the Falls may be had,
the finest, in fact, to be secured from any one point, the entii-e line of
the cataract being embraced in a single glance, and in closer proximity
than is possible elsewhere, except from below. The view down the
river is also a fine one, comprising the deep gorge through which the
stream flows, with its precipitous banks on either hand, and tlie Rail-
road Suspension Bridge in the distance.

The strength of the new bridge is estimated by the engineers as

NIAGARA PALLS.

thirteen times greater than sntHcient to bear any weight that can pos-
sibly be phxced npon it. The year of its completion it was subjected to
the sevei-est gale it has ever had to withstand, and safely and success-
fnlly "weathered the blast." All fears, therefore, as to its security in
ordinary weathei-, are entirely groundless.

VIEW OF THE FALLS FKOM THE FERRT.

Reaching the American shore by this method of crossing, the first
point of intei-est is

PROSPECT PARK.

Depositing the fee of 2o cents at the toll-gate, we are soon within the
privileged domain. The grounds are what were foi'merly known as the
"Ferry Grove" and "Point View," and previous to their improvement
were free to the public. The Company who purchased them, however,
have provided an almost endless variety of artificial adjuncts to render
the place attractive, and the small fee exacted for admission is not,
therefore, an unreasonable one.

At the verge of the Ameiican Fall, they have constructed a solid
wall at what is now called " Prospect Point," extending it all along the
brink of the precipice, thus rendering secure from accident the place
where the finest view of the Fall can be obtained. Looking uja the
stream, the foaming rapids, white-ci*ested and tumultuous, greet the
vision in a continuous stretch, until water and sky seem to blend. In

28 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

the immediate foreground is the American Fall, its waters almost in
reach of the outstretched hand. Directly across the stream are Luna
and Goat Islands, while sweeping away to the right in a grand curve,
is the Horseshoe Fall. The American Fall is year by year assuming
the horseshoe form, by the wearing away of the clifi" in the center, the
indentation in the front line of the Fall Ijeing quite prominently visible
from Prospect Point, although less noticeable from a front view.

The visitor who may be disposed to carry away a souvenir of this
locality will find a skilHul photographer in readiness to make pictures,
stereoscopic or otherwise, of from one to twenty ])ersons, with both the
American and the Horseshoe Fall as a background.

Near the Point is located a bazaar for the sale of curiosities, in
itself a museum well worthy of a visit, whether to purchase be the in-
tention, or only to inspect the ai'ticles exposed for sale.

The Ferry House is near the center of the Park, and is the upper
terminal station of the

INCLINED PLANE RAILWAY.

A tunnel has been cut from the clifl' to the margin of the river, at
an angle of about thirty degrees, and within it is built the railway, by
the side of which is a Hight of stairs, numbering 290 steps. The cars
are raised and lowered by machinery, operated by a tui'bine wheel, and
are so arranged that one ascends while the other descends. This rail-
way has been in successful operation, without a castialty, for nearly
forty years. The timid, however, to whom the descent appears peril-
ous, have the choice of the stairway for reaching the river, and many
prefer to trust their own limbs in the climb, but are generally glad to
avail themselves of the car in returning. At the foot of the stairs, a
commodious building has been erected, from which a view of the Falls
from below may be had through windows which protect the visitor
from the spray. A nearer view may be obtained by donning a water-
jjroof suit, for which facilities are provided in the dressing-rooms, and,
with a trusty guide, taking a promenade upon " HuiTicane Bridge," at
the very foot of the American Fall, completing the trip by going be-
hind the cataract itself, which may be done in safety, and constitutes
a novel experience. The cavernous recess behind the curtain of falling
water extends neai'ly to the center of the Fall, and is tilled with the
dashing spray which pei-petually rises from the cauldron of waters.
The roar of the cataract echoes and re-echoes within this chamber, the
eftect being heightened by the compression of the air ; and the combined
etfect upon the senses as one thus stands as it were within the very
grasp of Nature's most powerful forces, serves to show the contrast
between puny man and his omnipotent Creator.

Between the foot of the Inclined Plane and the Canada shore, a
line of ferry boats has been established, aifording a safe and pleasant
method of transit between those points, and a view of the Falls from
the river level. The best time for this trip is early in the morning or

NIAGARA FALLS. 29

an hour or two before sunset, and the impressions made upon the mind
in connection with it, will be among the most lasting of all the recollec-
tions of Niagara.

Returning to the Park by the stairway or the car, as the traveler
may elect, we continue our examination of the objects of interest to be
found within its limits. Its shady groves and pleasant walks, rem-
nants of the natural forest improved by the hand of art, furnish
delightful resting places or promenades ; and its Art Gallery, Concert
Hall, Pavilion, and other provisions for entertainment, serve to engage
the attention of the visitor, and make pleasant the hours that pass
while within the Park.

ELECTRIC ILLUMINATION.

One of the most enjoyable features of the visit to Prospect Park is
that provided for the hours of evening. The illumination of the Falls
and fountains by the electric light is a pleasing spectacle, and well
worthy of a tarry to see. The electricity for the purpose is developed
by one of the largest sized dynamo machines, kept in operation by a
powerful turbine wheel, located in the Ferry building, the water-jwwer
supplied by a canal. The brilliant light thus produced is concentrated
upon the Falls and Rajiids, both in clear white and with prismatic
etiects, rendering them even more beautiful by night than in the full
liglit of day.

An arrangement of fountains in which the waters are made to
assume a vai-iety of shapes, with revolving wheels and jets of spray,
the whole illuminated with shifting lights of all colors, constitutes an
exhibition amply rewarding a long journey to behold. The observer is
fascinated by the ever-changing colors and gorgeous etiects, more l)eau-
tiful than any pyrotechnic display, which it very much resembles, only
"with intensitied brilliancy of coloring, and more enduring in form.

GOAT ISLAND.

Passing out at the g:ite of Prospect P;irk, a short walk brings us to
the toll-house of Goat Island, at the end of the bridge leading across to
the group of islands which divide the cataract into its two distinctive
pnrts. The largest of these bears the above name, which was given to
it from a trivial circumstance, illustrating how easily a nickname or
title becomes fastejied "to stay" with a few repetitions, eveii from an
unauthorized soiirce. More than a century ago, a Mr. John Stedman
placed some goats oii the upper end of the Island, and thi-ough neglect
they were suiFei-ed to remain uncored for during the winter, and died
from exposure. Hence the name, which adheres to it, in preference to
its authorized name of ''Iris Island."

The gi-oup comprises, in all, some seventeen islands, large and
small, covering about sixty acres. The property belongs to the estate
of the late Judge Porter, to whom it was ceded by the State of New
York in 1818. Its possession at that time was regarded as of little

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

consequence, and the attempt to jiut a bridge across was deemed fool-
hardiness ; but it is said that an ofler of a million and a half dollars
has recently been refused for the estate.

The first bridge was a frail structure, and was soon carried away.
It was replaced by a stronger one, which stood from 1818 to 1856,
when it was removed, and the present elegant structure substituted.
The foundations are heavy oaken cribs, tilled with stone and plated
with iron. The bridge itself is of iron, in four arches, each of ninety

GOAT-ISLAND BRIDGE.

feet span, making a total length of three hundred and sixty feet. Its
width is twenty-seven feet, comprising a double carriageway, with foot-
way on either side. The bridge is a favorite [)lace from which to view
the Ra2:)ids, as the waters near the precipice below.

The lirst island of the group is Bath Island, which is utilized as the
site of manufacturing enterprise, a large paper-mill occupying a posi-
tion to command some portion of the splendid water-power so idly
expending itself for naught. Crossing by a bridge of a single span to
Goat Island, we find ourselves in a spot where Nature has been com-
paratively undisturbed. The forest remains almost in its prime\-al
simplicity, which fact renders this a most charming and popular resort.
Indeed, a visit to Niagara would be sadly incom])lete were Goat Island
and its attractions to be omitted.

Ascending a slight rise from the bridge, the road leads into a shady
forest, and branches in three directions. The best method of visiting
the points of interest is to first turn to the right, and follow the road
or path to the foot of the Island, emerging from the forest near the
stairwav and bridge leading to

NIAGARA FALLS. 31

LUNA ISLAND.

Tliis small but ]tleasant little islet divides the American Fall into
two sections, the stream over wliicli we cross from Goat Island consti-
tuting what is known as the Center Fall, beneath which is the Cave of
the Winds. The island lies low, and the visitor may touch the water
with the hand. The vei'ge was formerly unguarded, l3ut an iron i-ailing
now prevents a repetition of the melancholy accident that occurred
here on the 21st of June, 1849, when the family of Mi-. Deforest, of Buf-
falo, in company with a friend, Mr. Chai-les Addington, were visiting the
scene. The latter, playfully catching xip Annette, the little daughter
of Mr. Deforest, said, *' I am going to throw you in." With a sudden
impulse, the child sprang from his arms into the water. Horrified at
the result of his pleasantry, Mr. Addington sprang after her, and both
were immediately carried over the Falls. The mangled remains of the
child were recovered the same day, in the Cave of the Winds, and the
body of the unfortunate voimg man a few days later.

Returning to Goat Island, a short walk brings us to the building
used as the dressing-room in which to prepare for a visit to the

"CAVE OF THE WINDS."

This trip is made by ladies as well as gentlemen, water-pi-oof suits
being provided for any who wish to explore the famous cavern, and
experienced guides are in readiness to accompany the visitor. The
descent to the foot of the clitt" is here made without the aid of machin-
ery, by means of a spiral staircase known as

"BIDDLE'S STAIRS."

This structure takes its name from the Hon. Nicholas Biddle, the
well-known president of the United States Bank, at whose expense the
enterprise of biiilding it was carried out in 1829. The bank at this
place is 185 feet high. Part of this descent is accomplished by an
open stairway, of ordinary inclination, and the remainder by the per-
pendicular shaft or tower, which is 8U feet high, the whole comprising
147 steps.

From the foot of the tower, a pathway to the right, under the
shadow of the overhanging clifi", leads to the Center Fall, which consti-
tutes the aqueous curtain of "Coins' Cavern." A secure stairway
leads to the entrance of the Cave, and the visitor passes under the
Fall, into the stormy recess made in the solid rock. The Cavern de-
rives its name from the peculiar atmospheric effects produced by the
action of the falling water, the compression of the air establishing a
perpetual tempest, like that in which ^olus, the god of the wind, is
said to dwell.

The Cave is 100 feet high by 100 deep and 160 long, and its exist-
ence is due to the action of the waters upon the shale, leaving the more
solid limestone rock overhanging.

fefeSf J&ri^^i^A^

rXDER THE CATARACT.

NIAGARA PALLS. 33

As one of the many novel experiences to be met in a visit to
Niagara, the trip through this Cave will leave a lasting impression
upon the memory. The sensations which wind and storm will always
produce are here intensified by the novelty of the surroundings, and
the realization of the feet that the forces of Nature are perpetually ac-
complishing here what they occasionally produce in the outer world.
Add to this the s])ice of peisonal risk, really less than it seems to he,
and the recollections of the occasion will be vivid and enduring.

From the foot of the stairway, another path leads to the river in
front, and still another toward the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall. The
latter is but little used, and is not kept in good condition. From a
scadblding 100 feet high, erected near the stairway in 1829, Sam
Patch made his famous leap into the river, successfully accomplishing
a feat, the repetition of which at Genessee Falls, shortly after, cost him
his life.

Returning to the bank above, and continuing the walk along the
brink, the next interesting jioint of observation is

TERRAPIN BRIDGE AND ROCK.

A staii'way leads down to the Bridge, which crosses over to the
Rock where for forty years the well-known Terrapin Tower constituted
a landmark to be seen from all directions, standing as it did at the
very verge of the Fa*lls. The rock itself furnishes a favorable outlook,
aflbrding a near view of the Horseshoe Fall. The bridge is liable to
be slippery from the action of the spray, and care should be exercised
to avoid accident. In the winter of lo52, a gentleman while in the
act of crossing fell into the stream, and was carried to the very verge
of the Fall. By a remarkably fortunate circumstance, he lodged be-
tween two I'ocks, when he was discovered by some of the citizens, who
rescued him by life lines, which he succeeded in fastening around his
body. He was cariied to a hotel, and remained speechless for several
hoiirs, so great was the shock to his nervotts system.

THE CANADIAN OR HORSESHOE FALL,

Which is here seen to the V)est advantage, is about 1-44- rods wide, and
158 feet high. The depth of the water in the center is estimated at 20
feet. An experiment to demonstrate the depth was made in 1827.
An tinseaworthy vessel, drawing 18 feet of water, increased by leakage
to more than 20 feet, was sent over the Falls, and cleared the ledge
without touching.

The name " Horseshoe " is hardly true to the present shape, which
is now more nearly rectangidar. The horseshoe curve has been marred
by the falling of i)ortions of the cliff at various times, tmtil its original
symmetry hsis neai-ly departed. The precipice near the Teri-apin Tower
has sutiered loss from this cause, until it was regarded as unsafe to
continue the use of the Tower, and it was removed in 1873.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

Along the south shore of the island, the walk or drive toward the
east keeps in view the rapids, and leads ns next to the group known as
the

THREE SISTER ISLANDS.

These are connected with Goat Island and with one another by
three handsome bridges, afibrding a magnificent view of the Rapids,
the best, in fact, to be had from any point of observation. The scene
presented from the outer island, as you gaze up the river, upon the

'W' ^

TERRAPIN TOWER.— REMOVED IN 18^3

vast expanse of foaming, turbulent water, seemingly threatening to
overwhelm you and the ground on which you stand, and yet dividing
as it passes you, or abating its fury as it reaches the shore at your feet,
is one to fill the soul with admiration and awe, as, perhaps, no other
view can do. The outlook from the bridges also awakens peculiar
emotions. Standing only a few feet above the rapidly coursing torrent
as it i^asses beneath you, the thought comes to the mind that here at
least, "there is but a step betwixt time and eternity." The fascina-
tion increases as the gaze is prolonged, and the mind which cannot be

NIAGARA FALLS. 35

impressed with the sublimity of the scene, must be, like the soul devoid
of music, " tit for treason, stratagem, and sjjoils."

At the head of Goat Island, a little farther uj) the river, the view-
is quite exjiansive, commanding both banks of the stream, and the
islands in the channel. Beginning at the right, the site of Fort Schlos-
ser is seen about a mile away, marked by a small white building and a
very large chimney. The name is associated with border history, the
fort having been built by the French, afterward ceded to the English,
and occupied as a military station by G^'aptain 8chlosser, from whom its
later name was derived, the French having given it the title of Little
Fort.

NAVY ISLAND,

Lying in the channel which sweeps around Grand Island on the Canada
side, has an area of over three hundred acres, and is associated with
Fort Schlosser in the annals of border history, having been made the
rendezvous of the "Patriots " in the "Rebellion " of 18-37, under the
leadership of McKenzie, who, with about twenty-five or thirty follow-
ers, became disatiected with the Canadian authorities, and planted their
standard here as a rallying-] )oint. The Anierican steamer Caroline, a
small boat supposed to be in the service of the "Rebels," was chartered
to run between the islands and the American shore. Friday, Dec. 29,
1837, she entered upon her work of "ferriage," and after a profitable
day's work was moved to the wliarf at Schlosser's Landing. The same
night, a deta^chment of British soldiers, under command of Capt. Drew,
seized her, set her on fire, and the little steamer went down the stream
in flames, and plunged over the Canadian Fall. The crew, and some
of the " patriots " who were on board, escaped to the shore, with the
exception of one man, Durfee, who was killed \>y a pistol shot in at-
tempting to escape.

GRAND ISLAND,

The largest in the Eiver Niagara, is twelve miles in length, its breadth
varying from two to seven miles. Its soil, unlike that of the islands
nearer the cataract, is very fertile, and much of it is under ciiltivation.
Its historic annals are less interesting than those just mentioned,
although one entei'prise has a monumental reminder, still in a good
state of j)reservation. A gentleman who in the current vernacular of
to-day would doubtless be entitled a "crank," conceived the project of
making this island a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel.
In 182.5 he laid the corner-stone of the " City of Ararat," and erected
a monument, with imposing ceremonies. The latter still serves to i"e-
mind the visitor that " cranks " are not original with the present
generation.

At the foot of Grand Island is a smaller one, of al)Out three hun-
dred acres, called Buckhorn Island. The channel between them is
called " Burnt Ship Bay," from the destruction of two armed supply

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

vessels by the Fi-ench garrison at Sclilosser, near the close of the French
war of 1759, to prevent their acquisition by the English. They were
brought to this bay, and set on hi-e, and the circumstance is thus com-
memorated Vjy the name of the bay.

Corner's Island, Gill Creek Island and Grass Island, all of them
small, lie near the American shore, and are important, commercially or
historically.

FATHER IIENXEPIX'S SKETCH OF THE FALLS.

The first white man who saw the Falls, of whom we have any ac-
count, was Father Hennepin, the noted explorer. We present above
a facsimile of the sketch made by him, representing the Falls as they
were 200 years ago. We also give his extravagant description, pre-
serving the orthography and the quaint style in which it was written : —

" Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vaft and prodig-
ious Cadence of Water which falls down after a furprizing and afton-
ifhing manner, infomuch that the Univerfe does not afford its
Parallel. 'Tis true, Italy and Suedelatid boaft of fome fuch Things;
but we may well fay they are but forry Patterns, when compar'd to
this of which we now fpeak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice,
we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a quarter of a
League broad, but is wonderfully deep in fome places. It is fo rapid
above this Defcent, that it violently hurries down the wild Beafts

NIAGARA FALLS. 37

while endeavoring to pafs it to feed on tlie other fide, they not being
able to withftand the force of its Current, which inevitably cafts them
headlong above Six hundred foot high.

"This wonderful Downfal is compounded of two great Crofs-
ftreams of Water, and two Falls, with an Ifle Hoping along the middle
of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam
and boyl after the moft hideous manner imaginable, making an out-
rageous Noife, more terrible than that of Thunder ; for when the
Wind blows out of the South, their difmal roaring may be heard more
than Fifteen Leagues off.

" The River Niagara having thrown it felf down this incredible
Precepice, continues its impetuous courfe for two Leagues together, to
the great Rock above-mention'd, with an inexpreffible rapidity: But
having paft that, its impetuofity relents, gliding along more gently for
other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac.

" Any Bark or greater Veffel may pafs from the Fort to the foot of
this huge Rock above-mention'd. This Rock lies to the Weftward,
and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues
farther down than the great Fall ; for which two Leagues the People
are oblig'd to tranfport their Goods over-land ; but the way is very
good ; and the Trees are but itw, chiefly Firrs and Oaks.

" From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to the Weft of the
River, the two Brinks of it are fo prodigious high, that it would make
one tremble to look fteadily upon the Water, rolling along with a
rapidity not to be imagin'd. Were it not for this vaft Catara6l,
which interrupts Navigation, they might fail with Barks or greater
Veffels, more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, croffing the Lake
of Hiirons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois ;
which two Lakes we may eafily fay are little Seas of frefh Water."

RETROCESSION OF THE FALLS.

The following extracts from an article written by Prof. Tyndall will
be of hiterest in this connection : —

"The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man,
the Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this
recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually
creeps backward begin its retrograde course '? To minds disciplined in
such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous de-
clivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to
Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse baxrier the
affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the
work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonsti'ably of
sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island,
and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir
Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the
same fiuviatile shells as are now found in the Niagai'a River higher up.

38 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

It woiikl also account foi' those deposits along the sides of the river,
the discovery of which enabled I^yell, Hall, and Ramsay to reduce to
demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through
a shallow valley.

" The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to
my mind before quitting iSTiagara, are revealed Vjy a close inspection
of the pi'esent Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently thai the great-
est weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a
passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to
this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirl-
ing of the shattered liquid ; here the most jjowerful eddies recoil
against the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray
sometimes rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds,
becoming gradually more attenuated, and passing Anally through the
condition of triie cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-pre-
cipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center
of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from
the center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides.
The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious
and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of
the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along
the center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining fhe
sides as it passes them. Hence the x"ema]-kable discrepancy between
the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along
its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of
the Fall was probably that of a horseshoe ; for this is merely the ex-
pression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating
power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in
width as the depth of the center of the ancient river varied, being nar-
rowest where that depth was greatest.

"The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes
strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared to-
gether. The American bi-anch of the upper river is cut at a right
angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the
real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which
the American Fall tumbles. But since its foj-mation the ei"osive action
of the American Fall has been almost nil, while the Horseshoe has cut
its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and is
now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the
island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute ob-
servation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends ; the Horseshoe imme-
diately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow implicitly
the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility
of the gorge, if I may use the term, is detei-mined by the flexibility of
the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the Fall sinuous,
the gorge woiild immediately follow its sinuosities. Once suggested,
no douVjt geographers will be able to point out many examples of this

NIAGARA FALLS. 39

action. The Zambesi is thought to i)resent a great ditiiculty to the
erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria
Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of tolerably uniform texture, had
the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel,
the present zigzag course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am pur-
suaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river
would enable us to predict the course to be pursued by the erosion in
the future.

"But not only has the Niagara Kiver cut the gorge — it has carried
away the chips of its own workshop. The shale being prol)ably crum-
bled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the
huge boulders already described, and by some means or other these are
removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and
which grapples with tlie boulders, has been regarded as the transport-
ing agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts with-
out ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus withdrawing
their support, and urging them down the river. Solution also does its
portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by
the difference of depth between the Niagara Biver and Lake Ontario,
where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two feet to
twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by
the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the aorse at
Queenston, tlie depth, according to the Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet;
well within the gorge, it is 132 feet."

SUSPENSION BRIDGE.

Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so
widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipi-
tous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the
stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables,
passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be
of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures : —

Length of span from center to center of towers

Height of tower above rock on the American side

" " " " " Canada side

" " " floor of railway

" track above water. ...

Niimber of wii-e cables ...

Diameter of each cable

Number of No. 9 wires in each cal)le . 3,659

L^ltimate aggregate strength of cables 12,400 tons.

Weight of superstructure . . 800 "

•' " and maximum loads 1,250 "

Maximum weight the cable and stays will support 7,309 "

The bridge is a " two-story " affair, the upper part being used for
the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers.

822

feet.

258

lOJ

r in.

NIA(iARA FALLS.

WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS.

The narrowing of tlie clumnel in the vicinity of the Suspension
Bridge greatly accelerates the cnrrent, and the tremendous force with
which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the " Whirlpool,"
throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that
the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every
hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its
way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with
which it rushes along may be at least jiartially understood. Although

WIIIKLPOUL AND HAi'ID.--

the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the
current is such as to elevate the water from ten to forty feet above its
natural level.

At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharj) tiu-n almost at a right
angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated
for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast
body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel
of immense depth.

The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from eithei- tlie Canadian
or the Amei'ican side. At the latter, the approach is through the
grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds
of the institiition. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have
lieen made for the accommodation of visitors by the Whirlpool Rapids
Park Company.

A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation
from the side of the clifi", and a delightful park on the bank of the
river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this

42 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey
between the iipper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped
with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have
tanks below the seats ; these tanks are tilled with water from a spring
at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into
the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance
of the cars, and to carry tlie loaded car to the foot of the railway, the
liglit one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same j)Ower.
Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is
by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery
to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc.,
the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by whicli
the person in charge can i-egulate or stop the speed of the car with per-
fect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each ; the tanks are capable
of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the in-
cline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and
discharges the water, thus leaA'ing the car in i-eadiness for its next
ascent, which is made in aboiit one and a half minutes. The total
length of the i-ailroad is 285 feet.

At the water's edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving
to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Eapids in
the backgrounds.

Returning again to the Falls, we hnd on the Canada side several
points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock
an opportunity is afibrded of visiting the Museum, a collection of nat-
ural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological
garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook
from a lofty stand-point.

THE BURNING SPRING.

About a mile above the Falls, reached by a ])leasant diive or walk,
across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity
known as the Burning S})ring, the waters of which are highly charged
wdth sul[)huretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale Idue Hame when
ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, l)e-
lieved by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor,
however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to \m-
dertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of live, which are crossed in
the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and
a line carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good
view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are con-
nected with the main land by two sus])ension bridges, which have been
named "Castor" and "Pollux."

On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been
erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be
had. It is a noticeable landmaik from all points in the vicinity of the
Falls.

NIAGARA FALLS.

LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE FIELD.

As a spot of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive
battle between the English and American foi-ces, July 25, 1814, re-
ceives many Adsitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile
and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville,
named in honor of Gen. Druininond, who commanded the British forces
in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to niark the spot,
and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country.
It was the writer's good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to
the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from
the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on
the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gal-
lantry in the tight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about
eighteen hundred men.

DEVIL'S HOLE.

About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the Ameidcan side, a
gloomy cavern in tlie bank has received the above title. It is about

XIAGAKA RIVEK BELOW THE WHIRLPOOL.

one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be
regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this
locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and es-
cort in 17(5.3, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders.
The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and
only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight
returned to Fort Niagara.

Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written con-
cerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted
a latg^' amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few

44 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the
facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being
the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however,
that most of the drivers are wiling to make a special rate, considerably
lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be
expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding
as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees.

RATES OF TOLL.
Goat Island | .50

Cave of the Winds 1.00

Prospect Park _ .2.5

Inclined Railway .25

Shadow of the Rock 1.00

New Suspension Bridge 25

Ferry . 25

Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) 1 .00

Burning Spring .50

Railway Bridge, over and back .50

Whirlpool Rapids .50

Whirlpool - . .50

RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW,

FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to
another in the village, 50 cents.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in
this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents.

Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12
cents.

Children under 3 years of age, free.

Over 3 years and under 1 4 years, half price.

Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band-
box, or other small parcel.

For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from
any point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of
the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in
every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the
fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour occupied.

Hotels. — Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject seems to
demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors, especially during
the summer months has created a demand for hotel accommodations at Niagara,
■which has been met in the erection of such houses as the Cataract, International,
Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach, Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various
grades of excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge.

^-^(

•>THE ST. LAWREHCE RIVE{|,<^ 4,i^

HE route to the sea via the St. Lawrence Eiver
liaving become a great favorite with summer
tourists, we give in this connection a descrip-
tion of some of its principal attractions. The
majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for
all the waters of the great chain of inland seas,
runs in a general northeasterly direction, from
Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
through a country full of objects of interest
to the traveler and sight-seer, and Isy its navi-
gability becomes the medium by which they
may be reached.
Lt iMiig Niagara Falls in tlie evening, sleeping cars are
luu, L'lu. New York C^entral, Rome, Watertown it Ogdens-
burg, and Utica <k Black River Railroads, to Clayton, ar-
riving next morning in time to connect with the palace
day steamers of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company.
Should the toui-ist prefer to make the trip by daylight, he
will find the scenery pleasant and attractive. He will
thus reach Clayton in the evening, and remain until morning, pi'O-
ceeding as above.

The pleasures of a trip down the St. Lawrence, among the cele-
brated Thousand Islands, through the foaming rapids, and past the
ch.ai-ming villages which lie along the shore, have been the theme of
extravagant praise from many a summer tourist, and the constantly
increasing popularity of this route is ample evidence that they do not
soon grow old. You may usually tind among the passengers many
who have made the trip several seasons in succession, and the summer
resorts of the St. Lawrence are visited by the same tourists year after
year, so many and varied are the charms presented.

LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

Clayton, the steamljoat landing of the American Line, is upon
the shore of the river where it broadens out among the group of islands
of nearly double the numV)er indicated by the name. The trip there-

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER.

fore commences in the midst of beautiful scenery, to continue in a suc-
cession of delights and surprises, until its close at the wharf in Mont-
real. One and a half miles from Clayton is Round Island Park,
occupying the island from which it takes its name. A lovelier spot is
not to be found. An elegant hotel, numerous cottages, pleasant
gi-oves, splendid drives, and a beautiful water-front, are among the
features that contribute to its attractiveness, and give promise of mak-
ing it the resort par excdlence among the island gems of this beautiful
river. The association controlling the Park, while supposed to be denom-
inational, is by no means sectarian, and the largest freedom is allowed
the occupants, untrammeled by the claims or ca])rices of fashion, such
as sometimes destrov all lil)r'rtv at f ishionaVde resorts.

THE LUXURY OF CAMP-LIFE

Is here enjoyed to its fullest extent. The beautiful groves along the
shores of the island, reached by boat or the inlan<l paths and drives,
afford delightful camping-places, while the ready communication with
the "haunts of civilization " places the conveniences, and even luxuries
for those who desire them, within easy reach. Round Island is about

CHTOAOO TO THE SEA.

a mile in length, and eight hundred to twelve hundred feet wide. Its
shajje is not correctly indicated by its name, it being more nearly oral
than round.

KiiIMi 1-I.ANi

In summing up the attractions of the ishtnd, we can do no better
than to employ the langiv^ge of one of its summer residents, who writes
as follows : —

What Round Island has not : Marshes, mosquitoes, malaria,
drinking saloons, accumulated refuse, impure air, impure watei-.

What Round Island has : The purest and most invigorating air,
the clearest and most delicious water, the pleasantest drives, inviting
walks, beautiful views, unparalleled scenery, facilities for amusement,
accommodations for rest, cleanliness, healthfulness, between thirty and
forty cottages, an elegant hotel, fifty -live acres of lawn, a two-mile
driving track, bathing houses, and every convenience to make cottage
or hotel life charming.

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK.

More widely known, perhaps, than any of the other St. Lawrence re-
sorts, is the great camp-meeting pai'k of the Methodist denomination bear-
ing the above title. It is located at the xipper end of Wells Island, and
has rapidly gi-own to large propoxtions, combining, as it does, the re-
ligious, social and pleasure-seeking elements, often united in the same
individuals. It has a large village of permanent cottages, which is

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 49

gi'eatly increased in the summer bv the "cotton liouses " of those who
come for a brief stay, either in atten(hince iipon the religious services
oi- for a short respite from biisiness in camp life. It has a post-othce,
])ublic l)uildings, stores, and the conveniences of town life, together
■with boat houses, landings, dock room, etc., ;nid being in the main
channel of the river, it is readily accessible to visitors, as the boats
make it one of their important landings.

WESTMINSTER PARK.

The lower portion of Wells Island is also under the control of a re-
ligious association, being owned by a regularly chartered society called
the Westminster Park Association. With the usual conservatism of
people of the "orthodox" faith, there is nothing of the camp-meeting
order here, although services are held in Bethune chapel every Sunday
during the season. The Park comprises about live hundred acres, oc-
cupying an irregular neck of upland, rising in some places to a com-
manding height, overlooking the scene for miles in extent. Tasteful
cottages occupy the building lots into which a large portion of the Park
has been divided. An elegant hotel, called the Westminster, under
excellent management, is kept in tirst-class style, at from two to three
dollars per day. Dii'ectly opposite from this park, on the New York
shore, is

ALEXANDRIA BAY,

Sometimes called the "Saratoga of the St. La^vi-ence." As a summer
resort, it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of tJie most popular
watering places in Amei'ica. Its summer hotels are among the most
commodious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cot-
tages and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the
shore, and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boat-
ing, combined with the pure and invigox-ating atmosjihere, and the
beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors, ever
increasing in volume with each succeeding year. Alexandria Bay is
only twelve miles from Clayton, and the approach, by boat, is charm-
ing, as the pretty cottages come in view all along the .shore, succeeded
liy the imposing hotel fi'onts as the harbor is neared. Among the
handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland, " Bonnie Castle,"
is a cons]iicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just be-
low the landing.

THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE,

A view of which we here^vith present, is one of the finest hotels, both
in point of its general arrangements and the natural advantages af-
foi-ded by its location, to be found at any pleasure resort on the river.
It is built on the solid rock, near the steamboat landing, and its win-
dows command an extensive prospect, l>oth up and down the river and
across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further ex-

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

panded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the
structiire, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with
a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur.
The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests.
Leaving Alexandria Bay, we are now in the midst of the most
fashionable part of the Thousand Island group. The residences are
elegant in style of architecture and general appointments, some of them

THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE, ALEXANDRIA BAT.

being very costly, theii' wealthy proprietors having lavished expendi-
ture upon them with unstinted hand. The captain will call many of
them by name, the islands having received their titles mostly from
their present owners and occupants, and are somewhat fanciful and
often appropriate. For instance " Fairy liand " seems a fitting abode
for elfin sprites, although equally attractive to humanity. Arcadia,
Sport Island, Summerland, Manhattan, Imperial, Welcome, Cozy,

THE ST. LA^yRENCE RIVER. 51

Nobl)y, and a host of other cognomens, have been be.stowe(l upon the
charming spots where taste, elegance, and refinement are exhibited, as
art has imited with natnre in making them veritabk; summer para-
dises, where, let us hope, no serpent's trail may mar the happiness of
their possessors.

The last of the Thousand Islands are called the Three Sisters, from
their resemblance and proximity to each other. They are nearly op}»o-
site Brockville on the Canada shore and Morristown on the New York
side, the two towns being directly oj^posite each other, the former the
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the latter of the Utiea
it Black River Railroad, needing only a bridge, with these islands as
resting places for the abutments, to unite the two roads in one contin-
uous line. Brockville, named in honor of General Brock, is called the
" Queen City of the St. Lawx-ence," and there is something regal in its
appearance to warrant the bestowment of the title. Its glittering
towers and church spires give ,an appearance of splendor, which the
tourist will observe as a peculiarity of the Canadian cities to be seen in
his trip, the metal with which they are covered retaining its brightness
in a, remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmos-
phere.

OGDENSBURG AND PRESCOTT.

These two cities, like those last mentioned, are opposite each other,
and are both important points. Ogdensburg is the terminus of the
Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, the Utica & Black River, and Og-
densburg it Lake Champlain Railroads, the two former coming from
the West and the latter from the East. The city lies on both sides of
the Oswegatchie Ri\'er, at its junction with the St. Lawrence. On ac-
count of its beautiful foliage, it has been appropriately entitled Maple
City. Its extensive river front, with its railroad facilities, gives it a de-
cided advantage as a grain port. Large elevators and warehouses for
the ti-anshipment of grain and other freight from the lake steamers are
among the important enterprises of the place.

The direct route to the Adirondacks from Ogdensburg is via the
Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, on the line of which is also
located the recently discovered but already famous Chateaugay Chasm.
As the western section of the all-rail line from Ogdensburg to Portland,
this railroad is also assuming considerable importance as a tourist route
to the White Mountains and other resorts, and will receive due notice
in a separate chapter.

Prescott, on the oitposite bank of the St. Lawrence, is connected
with Ogdensburg by ferry, the boats being of sufficient capacity to
transfer cars, and making regular trips. The railroad interests of this
place are concentrated in the Grand Trunk and the St. Lawrence &
Ottawa division of the Canadian Pacific.

Massena Landing, where passengers destined for Massena Springs
go ashore, is soon j)assed, and now a perceptible increase is noticeable

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 53

in the velocity of the current. The interest among the pas.sengers, if
it has anywhere been allowed to tlag, now becomes re-awakened, as
the word goes along the line that the famous

RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE

Will soon add zest to the journey. There are several courses of these
rapids, those we are now entering being the Gallopes, which, com-
pared with some of the others, are of biit little interest, except as a
foretaste of what is to come. Next we enter and pass the Rapid de
Plan, and the excitement dee'pens as the foaming, seething waters just
ahead proclaim the approach to the famous Long Sault (pronounced *S'oo).
This is the longest of the series, being a continuous descent for nine
miles, with the current running at a speed of twenty miles an ho\ir.
A canal, eleven miles in length, extends around this rapid, with seven
locks, facilitating the descent of such crafts as are unable to cope with
the rapids, and also permitting the return of the steamers. Four sim-
ilar canals are to be met at various places along the river.

At Dickenson's Landing, just before entering the Long Sault, the
passengers are transferred to the "Prince Arthur," a boat constriicted
expressly for " shooting the rapids," which steams out from the land-
ing, with its bow headed toward the angry waters, as if in defiance of
their power. The increasing speed, and especially the perceptible descent,
soon awaken the interest of the dullest among the passengers, and as the
boat lurches to the right or left (or, in nautical phrase, to the starboard
or port), to escape destruction from some ledge which the trusty pilot
knows how to avoid, the excitement deepens and increases, and the
half hoiir recpiired for the passage of the Long Sault is crowded lull of
alternating delight, fear and exhilaration, quickening the pulse and
giving zest to the journey, not to be appreciated except by those who
experience it.

At the foot of this Rapid, the placid waters of Lake St. Francis are
entered, and the conti-ast between the tranquil surroundings and the
tumult and excitement just passed through brings a grateful sense of
relief, and the lovely scenery among which the boat now glides for
twenty-five miles, is all the more keenly appreciated. The call to din-
ner, which is served during the passage of this lake, is a welcome one,
and the passengers are now ready to descend to the level of things ma-
terial and substantial, which they find spread in abundance in the din-
ing saloon.

After dinner, and a quiet stroll on deck, a little more experience
with rapids is in order. Passing Coteau du Lac, we enter the Coteau
Rapids, descending quickly to the Cedars, Split Rock and Cascade
Rapids. In passing the Cedars, a peculiar sensation is experienced, as
the boat a]ipears to settle down occasionally with great suddenness, as
though about to be submerged. This is siipposed to be owing to a
strong undercurrent which exerts this influence on the boat as she
}>asses from one ledge of rock to another, although they are at a safe

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER.

distance below her keel. The passage of the Split Rock Rajjids seems
dangerous, as indeed it would l)e were the jtilot to forget for a moment
the grave responsibility of his trust, and fail to swerve tlie boat at just
the right moment to avoid some rock or ledge that threatens destruction
to the craft.

Occasionally a i-aft may be seen in conflict with the rushing waters,
apparently at the mercy of the current. The venturesome lumbermen
generally manage, however, to " put in an oar " to good advantage in
steering clear of the rocks, although not always successful in guiding
their frail crafts into quiet waters. An occasional wreck is the result
of these ventures, as the scattering logs in the channel attest.

RAFTS IX THE KAPIDS.

The Cascades are so called from their resemblance to a series of
short, leaping falls. Passing the Cascades, we enter upon another
broad expanse of water, the river here widening into Lake St. Loiiis, re-
ceiving also the waters of the Ottawa River. This lake is twelve miles
long by about six in bi-eadth, and the ride across its quiet waters just
precedes the culminating excitement of the trip, — the daring passage of
the

FAMOUS LACHINE RAPIDS.

At the head of tJiese Rapids is the ])retty little Indian village of
Lachine, and hei'e comes aboard our Indian pilot, Bai^tiste by name,
who has piloted the boats through the Lacliine Rapids for forty years.
These Rapids are the most perilous in all the river's extent, on account

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

of the devious nature of the channel, and the dangerous rocks which lie
just enough below the surface to deceive any but the skillful navigator.
The swarthy giant who takes the wheel at this point pays little atten-
tion to anything but the duty in hand, and that seems to demand all
his energies. Casting alternate glances at him and at the nishing
watei's aliead of us, we involuntarily breathe the words of the hymn,

" Steady, O pilot, stand firm at the wheel."

Right in our path lies a ragged rock, which threatens us with in-
stant destruction ; but a turn of the wheel at just the right moment
sends our good craft a little to the left of it, and the apparent danger is
past. With bated breath we watch for the next peril that looms ahead
of us, to find it, like its predecessor, vanquished by the strong arm and
steady nerve of the man to whom every yich of the channel is as fa-
miliar as a beaten path.

Entering once more into (juiet waters, we steam on our way toward
Montreal, and soon the horizon is marked with the long line of the fa-
mous Victoria Bridge, which rises higher and higher as we approach
it, until we glide under it and are soon at the wharf of the American
Line, at the close of a day that has been tilled with a succession of de-
lights unapproachable in a day's experience in travel elsewhere on the
Ameiican Continent.

CANADIAN CARRYALL.

xr^

MOKII^

AND

;^ QUEBEC. V'>

TOUR from the West to the East which did not
inckide a visit to the chief cities of Canada woukl
>e indeed incomplete. Hence, in the arrangement
of Slimmer excursions, the River 8t. Lawrence
comprising a pai*t of the trip, it is both easy and
natural to embrace these jDoints of interest.

MoxTREAL is the metropolis of British North
America. Its situation, both from a scenic and
commercial point of view, renders it attractive to the
touiist and prosperous as a business center. Its loca-
tion is on an island in the St. Lawrence, at the base of
Mt. Royal, which gives the city its name. The view of
the city from the river, with the mountain in the background is beau-
tiful and impressive, and when this is su2:)pleraented by the grand pic-
ture exhil)iteil from the summit of the mountain, with the river and
the Victoria Bridge in the distance, the observer is ready to exclaim,
" Beautiful for situation! "

On arriving in Montreal, whether by boat or rail, the traveler is
impressed with the idea that the entire population must indulge in
riding, so numerous ai-e the hackmen, or carters, as they are called, to
be seen at every hotel, depot and landing. Their easy one or two-
horse carriages are at your service for long or short trips, and their
prices are very reasonable, being regulated by law. The fare from
point to point within the city is twenty-live cents for one or two pas-
sengers, and fifty cents for three or four, although the usual custom of
the driver is to charge twenty -five cents for each passenger, and collect
it if he can. If }ou go outside the city limits, make a bargain in ad-
vance. In fact, there is safety in giving this rule a general application
wherever you need the services of a hackmaii, and thereby always
.avoiding contention in settlement.

iil||||l|L

ill"'''''
iilll!

iiiiiifeiil?;']i\

i|yi

•-*.* i/Vlii/i'

MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 59

THE HOTELS

Of Montreal are excellent, comprising, among the most eleg;int, the
Ottawa, Windsor, and St. Lawrence Hall. The Albion Hotel has for
many years been a great favoiite with American tourists, both from
the personnel of its management and the reasonableness of its charges.
The Montreal House, the American, the Richelieu, and a host of other
claimants for [)atronage, all have their special merits, and are well-
spoken of by their visitors.

Sight-seeing, in the city and vicinity, is best accomplished by the
employment of a " carter," who is usually well posted on all the points
of interest, and can often entertain his party with sundry legends in
connection with them. The most delightful drive, for a single trip,
is the

RIDE AROUND MOUNT ROYAL,

Which is about nine miles in extent, over splendid macadamized roads,
through a section of country, in the suburbs, devoted to gardening, and
under a high state of cultivation. The entire island, about thirty miles
long by ten wide, is noted for its fertility, and is called the Garden of
Canada. The trip should also inchide a drive to the summit of the
mountain, whicli is reached Ijy a carriage road of easy ascent, and
which is being converted into a magniticent park, from which an ex-
tensive view of the city and sun-ounding country can be obtained.
Tiie Mount Royal Cemetery, the Grey Nunnery, and the Hotel Dieu
ai-e also to be seen in this drive, the latter being the largest build-
ing in the Dominion, used for a convent, hospital, and asylum for poor
eldldren.

The Water Works, the reservoir of which is on the side of the
mountain, with the pumping station on the banks of the St. Lawrence,
above the city, are well worthy of a visit. The reservoir was exca-
vated out of the solid rock, and is 206 feet above the level of the river.
The cost of the works, with the machinery, was over •$2,000,000. The
immense pressure obtained from such an elevated reservoir, enables the
tire department to dispense entirely with engines, using hose carriages,
and a large conflagration in the city is almost an impossibility.

The public buildings of the city are substantial and elegant, many
of them conspicuous for their superior architectural design, and the
completeness of their appointments. The Court House, Post Office,
Meix'hants' Exchange, several bank buildings, the Custom House,
Mc Gill College, Bonsecours Market, and a list that might be indefi-
nitely extended, comprise the notable structures that will attract at-
tention as you ride through the business thoroughfai-es of the city.

The churches are among the finest to be foimd in America. Notre
Dame, with its twin towers, conspicuous from every point of view, is the
most capacious of any of the finished structiu-es, although the Cathe-
dral, now in process of erection, and modeled after St. Peter's at Rome,

MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 61

is to be second only to this famous editice in point of size and ele-
gance. The towers are massive and lofty, being 220 feet in height.
The right-hand tower may be ascended, and the view to be had well re-
wards the etibrt of climbing. It contains the big bell, weighing nearly
30,000 pounds. The other tower contains a chime of bells. The
Church of the Gesu is noted for the beauty of its frescoes and paint-
ings. The English Cathedral, and several Protestant churches, are also
tine editices.

Lachine Canal, leading from above the rapids of tliat name, is a
tine specimen of engineering, and not only serves to facilitate naviga-
tion, l)ut fiu-nishes almost unlimited water power for the extensive
manufactiiring enterprises along its banks.

Victoria Bridge, which crosses the river from the Southern shore,
is a massive and costly structure. One of the best views of it is that
to be had in coming down the river, the boat passing under the central
span. It is tubular in shape, built of iron, and rests upon twenty-four
piers of solid masonry, the central span being 330 feet, and the i-emain-
ing ones 242 feet. It cost $6,300,000, is the property of the Grand
Trunk Railway Company, and is used exclusively for railway purposes.

The shipjiing interests of Montreal are among the most important
sources of the city's prosperity. At the head of ocean navigation, it is
the American terminus of a number of trans- Atlantic steamship lines,
and the railway and river and lake connections from the West, com-
bined with its facilities for ocean commerce, render it vel-y prominent
as a port for transhipment. Its wharves are not excelled in America,
being constructed of solid limestone ; and its harbor is deep and ca-
pacious.

The Champ de Mars, a spacious parade ground, where three thou-
sand ti'oops may be reviewed at once ; Viger Square, near by, with gar-
dens, conservatories, fountains, etc.; Victoria Square, Jacques Cartier
Square, and several other smaller squares, constitute the parks of the
city, in addition to the Mount Royal Park. Improve his time as he may,
the visitor Avill not soon exhaust the attractions of this beautiful city, and
will tind many more, which we have not space even to mention, as we
regretfully leave the pleasant spot, and resume our journey, to the

ANCIENT CITY OF QUEBEC.

The route from Montreal may be chosen from three : The North
Shore Railway, the Grand Trunk Railway, and the Richelieu & Onta-
rio Steamship Line via the St. Lawrence. The latter is a favorite,
and unless the tourist is surfeited with steamboat riding, will be the
one generally chosen. It is a night trip, and therefore less wearisome
than a ride by rail, as the comfortable state rooms of the boat are pref-
erable to the berths of a sleeping-car.

Leaving Montreal at early evening, passing the fort on the island
dii-ectly against the city, and onward past the mouth of the Ottawa
River below the city, the lirst stop is at the town of Sorel, or William

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

Henry, at the confluence of Sorel or Richelieu River, forty-tive mih^s
from Montreal. Five miles farther on, the river expands into a lake
about twenty-tive miles in length by nine in width, and known as Lake
St. Peter. Next we come to the ancient city of Three Rivers, taking-
its name from the fact that the St. Maurice River, which here flows
into the St. Lawrence, is divided by islands into three channels.

CITV OV QUEBEC, FKOM THE KIVEK.

The view of Quebec, as approached from the river, is singularly
impressive. Unlike any other city on the American continent, its sit-
uation and surroundings make it an object of striking interest. The
fortifications, with their towers and battlements, frown upon you from
the Plains of Abraham and" from the lower town, and there surrounds
the place an aii- of mediaevalism at once novel and attractive.

It is one of the oldest cities in America, as well as one of the most
interesting. It was founded in 1608, and its history is replete with
events of tremendous importance. The scene of many a battle and of
untold carnage, the crowning event of all was the memorable engage-
ment which transferred half a continent from France to Biitain, and
immortalized the names of both commanders, the victor and the
vanquished.

The city consists of two divisions, known as the upper and the lower
town. The upper town includes within its limits the Citadel of Cape
Diamond, which covers the entire summit of the promontory, embi-acing
an area of more than forty acres. It rises to the height of 345 feet
above the river, and from its commanding position and the sti'ength of
the fortification, has been not inaptly entitled the " Gibraltar of
America."

CITY AND H VRBOH

QUEBEC,

FROM THE

CITADEL

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

The shape of the city is triangular, the St. Lawrence and St.
Charles rivers forming the two sides, with the Plains of Abraham for
the base. The i-iver fronts are defended by a continuous wall on the
very brow of the clifl', with flanking towers and bastions, loopholed for
musketry and pierced for cannon. On the west side, a heavy triple
wall, with trenches between, formerly guarded that approach, but
much of it is now de-
molished. Between ^ '— -- "^2"5 ^-; . ^

the old town and the
outside world, the wall
was formerly pierced
with frowning gate-
ways, five in number ;
but these have been
gradually demolished,
in response to the increas-
ing demand for more free
communication, and on
the occasion of tlie writer's las
visit to the city, the old Saint
.John's gate was being entirely
removed. We present views of
these gateways, from which the
fortified aspect of the town be-
fore their demolition may be
readily inferred.

The nationality of the inhabitants-
is strongly French, and the visitor from
the States can easily fancy himself in a
city in France, so decidedly un-Ameri-
can are all his surroundings. The
quaint houses, the steep and tortuous
streets, especially of the oldest portions

of the

city, and the almost universal use of
the French language in the ordinary
channels of trade, require no stretch
of the imagination to practically trans-
]>ort one to the old world, and give a
glim[)se, as it were, of a foreign
country.

The view from the Citadel, on ac-
count of its elevation, is surpassingly
grand and comprehensive. The majes-
tic St. Lawrence, alive with sailing
craft of every size and kind, stretches
before the vision in both directions,

WOLFE'S OLD MONUMENT.

QUEBEC AND VICINITY.

seeming like a band of glistening metal, beiiutifying the scene and
giving animation to the picture. Directly below lie the crooked streets
of the lower town, teeming with animation, while its busy population
so far beneath, seem like pigmies, and you look
upon the glistening roofs of the houses and down
the very throats of the chimneys, into which it
would seem an easy matter to toss a pebble.

Looking to the westward, the Plains of Abra-
ham are spread out before you, together with the
blutis scaled by Wolfe and his brave soldiers in
the preparation for the assault that ended in a
victory, but cost the lives of both commanders.
The spot where Wolfe fell is marked by a hand-
some monument. It was erected in 1849, but is
still called the '-new monument" in dis-
tinction from the simple monolith which
^ previously occupied its site, an illustration

of which is given on the pi^eceding ]>age.
tliH new monument bears the sim2)le but
|uent inscription, " Here died Wolfe,
\ictorious."' Directly across the river is
the settlement of Point Levi,
and down the stream the beau-
tiful Isle of Orleans may be
j^ ^A- seen. This pleasant resort

may be reached by ferry from
the city, and it affords delight-
ful drives, giving views of the
Falls of Montmorenci, the Laii-
rentian Mountains, and other
objects of interest.

Chaiidiere Falls, nine miles
above Quebec, on the river of
the same name, are 130 feet
high and 400 feet wide. The
Falls and Indian village of
Lorette, seven miles from Que-
bec, are points to which ex-
cursions may be profitably
made, either by carriage or the North Shore Pailway.

Other points of interest in and about Quebec demand at least a
brief mention. The Dufferin Terrace, which will be included in the
visit to the Plains of Al)raham, as will also the Governor's Garden,
where the monument to Wolfe and Montcalm will l)e seen ; the Fi'cnch
Cathedral ; the Laval Seminary, in the chapel of which are some very
fine paintings ; the English Cathedral, near by ; the Ursuline Con-
vent ; the public buildings in the lower town, and others which the

WOLFE'S NEW MONCMEXT.

PALACE llATi:, IjUEliEC.

*T. LOUIS Ci.VTE, yiEBEf.

FALLS OF JIONTMOKENCL

driver will point out to you, are of sufficient interest to enliven a visit
of several days duration, or tliey may l)e hurriedly inspected in ii " liy-
ine; trip."

THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI

Are among the most interesting of the objects which secure the visits
of tourists to Quebec, both on account of their own attractiveness and
the pleasant drive by which they are reached. The "carters" of
Quebec are as numerous as tho.se of Montreal, and the roads around
the city and in the country adjacent are among the finest to be found
anywhei'e. Securing your driver, you leave the city by one of the
gates, and, crossing the St. Charles River, are soon in the suburbs,
passing here and there a house or villa of modern style, but speedily
coming to the realm of the ancient ; the road leading through quaint
old hamlets, the cottages with their picturesque dormer Avindows, the
thatched-roofed outbuildings, and the peasant-like appearance of the
peoj^le, combined with the universal employment of the French lan-
guage, strengthen the fancy for the time being that America must be
far away, and that the rural districts of France or Switzerland are the

ij^'-'

Mn^^

s»» r

FRENCH CANADIAN HOME.

scenes .through which your trip is made. Children run beside the car-
riage, asking alms or otlering tlowers, while the women and older girls
are at work in tlie fields, oi' spinning with their rude wheels in the
open doorways or on the porches of the little houses. The anticpxated
impknnents of agi-iculture, the rude carts by the roadside, and the rustic
crosses by the way, at which some devout pilgrim, perchance, is tarry-

FALLS OF MONTMORENCI.

FALLS OF MONTMUHENOl. 69

ing to breathe a Fater Xoster, all tend to complete the illusion of a
remoter age or more distant clime than the few hours' ride from bus-
tling, modern, Yankee civilization.

The ride of eight miles all too (juickly brings you to the River
Montmorenci, and here you gaze upon historic ground, it being the
scene of the battle of Montmorenci which immediately preceded Wolfe's
tinal victory at Quebec. Leas'ing your cai-riage, aiid paying a small
fee for the privilege of crossing private grounds, you descend the bank
of the river to look up at the fall from below. The river here pours
over the clitf into the St. Lawrence, broadening at the edge to about
50 feet, and falling 250, in a sheeny vail, half water, half spray, not
sublime, nor even grand, but exquisitely beautiful.

The towers on either side of the river still mark the s])ot where,
several years ago, a suspension bridge was erected, but which, through
some defect, gave way as a laborer and his family were crossing in a
cart, precipitating them into the gulf below.

Returning to Quebec, the views of the city are enlivened by the
peculiar featvire of glistening towers and roofs, so noticeable in connec-
tion with many Canadian cities. The sunlight, glancing from the
metal-covered roofs, spires, and dormer windows, which, owing to the
tortuous windings of the streets, are set at every conceivable angle, })ro-
duces a brilliant and sparkling effect.

If you are ever tempted to indulge in sentiment, the words of the
poet, used to describe the Celestial city, may come into mind : —

"There is the city ia splendor subli iie;
See how its towers and battlements shine."

THE SAGUENAY RIVER.

This is the largest atttuent of the St. Lawrence, which it joins about
120 miles below Quebec. The scenery of the Saguenay is strikingly
grand and romantic, and unlike anything else east of the Eocky Mount-
ains. It is usually visited by boat, and the trip down the St. Law-
rence to Tadousac, at the junction of the two streams, and up the Sag-
uenay among its bold, wild scenery, should not be omitted, even at the
expense of slighting some other point of interest lying in the highways
of fashionable travel.

Leaving Quebec by steamer, you pass through some remarkably fine
scenery, in which the majestic St. Lawrence abounds, the river being
in some places thirty miles in width, and dotted with a multitude of
islands, abounding in game. The Falls of St. Anne are on the river of
that name, which enters the St. Lawrence off the lower end of Orleans
Island through a bold ravine. The quarantine station on Grosse Isle
is passed, and is associated with sad memories of the famine in Ireland.
It received twenty thousand plague-stricken emigrants, of whom six
thousand now lie in a single grave, marked l)y a stone monument.

Ninety miles below Queliec is the fashionable watering place known

70 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

as Murray Bay. The river is here twenty miles wide, and the tides
have a range of twenty feet in height. On the south sliore of the river,
still further down, is Riviere du liOup, a place of some importance, and
six miles below it is Cacouna, already quite famous as a pleasure resort,
and yearly increasing in popularity. Across the river from Cacouna
is Tadousac, at the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay, formerly a place
of some commercial importance as a post of the Hudson Bay Company,
and one of the first towns on the St. Lawrence fortified by the French.
It has a good hotel, near which is a little church over 250 years old.

TADOUSAC, AT MOUTH OF SAGUENAT KIVEH.

The Saguenay River is remai'kable, not only for its great depth,
but also for the marvelous height of its banks. It seems to flow
through a rift in the Laurentian Mountains, which appear to be cleft,
as it were, to the very foundations, the height of the clifls rising from
the edge of the river being equaled only by the depth to which they
descend below the surface. The source of the river is 130 miles from
its junction with the St. Lawrence, in Lake St. John, which is fed by
eleven rivers, draining an immense watershed, the great volume re-
sultant pouring through this remarkable gorge, in many places unfath-
omalile. At St. John's Bay, 27 miles above Tadousac, the water is
one mile and a half in depth, and but little less at Eternity Bay, six
miles beyond. At the hitter place, the wonderful capes. Trinity and
Eternity, like giant sentinels guard the entrance, rising 1,500 and 1,'JOO
feet, respectively, above the water.

Ha-Ha Bay is sixty miles above Tadousac, and is nine miles long by
six wide. It has also been named Grand Bay. The first-named title
is said to have come from the exclamations of delight which sprung
from the lips of the navigators of the river on its discovery ; and in
contrast with the gloomy and forbidding aspect of the lower portions

THE SACilKNAV KIVER.

oi" the liver, it would seem that sucli an oiit])urst might be perfectly
natural. The mountains around Ha-Ha Bay abound in whortleberiies,
or blueberries, as they are here called, and a very imjiortant industry
with the natives is the gatlierinif and shijiment to market of the boun-

HA-HA BAY, SAGUENAY KIVEK.

tiful harvest thus kindly furnished by nature, the picking season ex-
tending from the middle of July until the falling of the snow, and the
supply being inexhaustible.

\\\'E-< ETEItXITV AMI TIlINrrV.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

Chicoutimi, a few miles beyond, is at the head of navigation, the
river being obstructed above this point by rapids and falls. Lumbering
is one of its important industries, the immense forests of the vicinity be-
ing as yet almost in their virgin state, and the harbor accessible to the
largest vessels, thus giving it natural facilities of gi-eat value.

The lishing in the Saguenay
River and its tributaries is one
of the chief attractions to the
sportsman. Salmon abound, and
the quality of the tish taken from
such deep, cold water can readily
lie inferred by the disciples of
Walton. Game also abounds in
the forests, some specimens being
well worthy of the skill and
nerve of the trained hunter.

A stiident of character will
find an interesting subject in the
person of the Canadian Indian,
to be met in various localities in
Canada. Combining with his
native craft the shrewdness of
a Connecticut Yankee, he will
often appear in the role of a
vender of cuiiosities, in which
"taking" attitude our artist pre-
sents him.

In closing our notes on the
Saguenay, we feel that but faint
justice can be done to its won-
derful attractions. It has been
tersely described by a writer as
a "region of primeval grandeur,
where art has done nothing and
nature everything ; where, at a
single bound, ci%ilization is left
behind and nature stands in unadorned majesty ; where Alps on Alps
arise ; whei-e, over unfathomable depths, through mountain gorges,
the steamer ploughs the dark Hood on which no sign of animal life ap-
pears. " A better slimming iip of its peculiar features, in so few words,
could not lie written, and the tourist who visits the scenes we have
briefly described will indulge in no regrets, unless it be that want of
time to do justice to the trip gives only hurried glances where hours
and days might be enjoyed in i-ealizing the siiblime grandeur of the
surroundings.

INDIAN CUKIOSITY SELLER.

OGDENSBURG TO PORTLAND. 73

Ooden^hHro to PcrfUnuL

'HE route by the "all-rail" line from the 8t. Lawrence at
Odgensburg to the ocean at Portland, presents many attrac-
ts tions to the pleasure tourist, which we deem worthy of special
mention in this connection. As an avenue of api)roacli to the
Adirondacks, Chateaiigay Chasm, the Green Mountains of Ver-
mont, and the White Mountains of TS^ew Hampshire, it offers a
combination of desirable routes for summer travel. Indeed, the
entire lino extends through a siiccession of lake, river, and moimtain
sceneiy, of charming beauty and variety.

The Adirondacks are best reached by way of Malone, a station
on the Ogdensbui-g & Lake Champlain Railroad, about sixty miles
from Ogdensburg. From here an excellent stage line takes the tourist
to the Adirondack Wilderness, by way of Ayer's, Loon Lake, Meacham
Lake, and St. Regis, the latter being the location of "Paul Smith's"
famous hostelry. Chateaugay, a station twelve miles east of Malone,
is another gateway to the famous resort, the stages going via the Cha-
teaugay Lakes.

The " Adirondack District " is a term applied to a tract of country
having for its general boundaries the St. Lawrence River on the north,
Lakes Champlain and George on the east, the Mohawk River on the
south, and the Black River on the west. The encroachments of civili-
zation have so trenched upon these boimdaries, that tlie "Wilderness,"
so called, comprises only the central, unsettled and \uicultivated por-
tion of this tract, almost in its primeval state, with a border of settled
country on all sides. The limits of this work forbid an extended de-
scription of this region, which as yet is only partially explored. In-
deed, one of its chief delights consists in the new discoveries that the
venturesome tourist may make in his search for the game which
abounds in its forests, or the tisli which teem in its waters.

The following, from the report of the Superintendent of the Adi-
rondack Survey, gives a good idea of the character of some portions of
this wilderness : —

" In these remote sections, filled with rugged mountains, where un-
named waterfalls pour in snowy tresses from the dark, overhanging
cliffs, the horse can find no footing, and the adventurous trapper or ex-
plorer must carry upon his back his blankets and a heavy stock of
food. His ritle, which affords protection against wild beasts, at times
replenishes his well-hiisbanded provisions, and his axe aids him in con-
structing from bai'k or bough, some temporary shelter from storm, or
hews into logs the huge trees which form the fierce, roaring, comforta-
ble fu-e of the camp. Yet, though the woodman may pass his life-

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

time ill some section of tlie wilderness, it is still a mystery to iiim.
* * It is a peculiar region ; for though the geographical center of
the wilderness may be readily and easily reached in the light, canoe-like
boats of the guides, by lakes and rivers, which form a labyrinth of pas-
sages for boats, the core, or rather cores of this wilderness extend on
either hand from these broad avenues of water, and, in theii- interior,
spots remain to-day as untrodden by man, and as unknown and wild,
as when the Indian paddled his birchen boat upon those streams and

CASCADE AND BUTTRESS.

lakes. Amid these mountain solitudes are places where, in all proba-
bility, the foot of man never trod ; and here the panther has his den
among tlie rocks, and rears his savage kittens undisturbed, save by the
growl of bear or screech of lynx, or the hoarse croak of raven taking
its share of the carcass of slain deer."

A mile and a half north of Chateaugay is the wonderful Chateau-
gay Chasm, a newly discovered rival of the far-famed Ausable. The

0(JI)ENSBURG TO PORTLAND.

waters of tlie Chateaugay Lakes here find a passage on their way to
the St. Lawi-ence, through a narrow gorge, walled in by sandstone
cliffs, the river in one place making a descent of fifty feet in a beantifnl
cascade. Several of the more noticeable features of this wonderful
chasm are presented in our illustrations. The "Cascade and Buttress"
exhibits an appearance of constructive design, as layer upon layer of
sandstone rock forms a terraced buttress, resembling some ancient ruin.
"Giant Gorge " is a narrow defile, with frowning walls, having the ro-

I.IA.NT UUKUE — PULI'lT liL

mantic and interesting feature of a cavern, called " Vulcan's Cave,"
with an entrance in the side of the rock, sixty feet above the river, and
one hundred and twenty feet below the top of the clift'. It was first
explored by means of spliced ladders, but is now i-eached by an en-
closed stairway. It is al)out thirty feet square, and presents an inter-

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

esting study for the geologist. The cave was doubtless hollowed out of
the sandstone by the action of water which trickled down through the
ledge above in tiny streams, wearing away the softer stone by slow de-
grees, and leaving the masses of harder deposit in a variety of singular
and grotesque shapes. A series of architectural pillars, supporting

SPARTAN PASS — RAINBOW FALLS.

gothic arches or miniature dormer windows, may be seen on the one
hand, and at certain angles, odd and fantastic figures, some of them
half human in appearance, present themselves, while here and there a
block of stone appears like the unfinished work of the sculptor.

" Spartan Pass " and " Hainbow Basin and Falls " are peculiarly
interesting, the water descending to the basin over a succession of
rocky steps, nearly a hundred in number, coming to a rest in the
" basin," only to dash on again, in ever-changing foims and merry ca-
dence, in their race through the gorge, to the St. Lawrence. " Pioneer

OGDENSBURG TO POKTI.AND. 77

Crossing" receives its name from tlie fact that in early times a bridge
spanned the chasm, on what was then the great highway of the wikler-
ness. On the nortli side of this crossing a huge rock affords an exten-
sive view of the gorge, fi'om which fact it has been named Point Look-
out. In other parts of the Chasm, grottoes, arches, cohimns, etc.,
afford subjects of study for the curious, and of admiration for the

PIONEER CROSSING — POINT LOOKOUT.

lovers of the odd and fantastic in nature. A fine hotel has been
erected near the entrance to the chasm, from the cupola of which
splendid views may be had of the scenery. Coaches connect with
trains at Chateaugay.

At Eouse's Point, the terminus of the O. & L. C. R. P., connection
is made with ihe Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. Railroad for Lake
George, Saratoga, Troy, Albany, and New York, and with the Central

78 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

Vermont for St. Albans, Worcester, Providence and Boston. Contin-
uing our journey toward Portland, we here traverse a small portion of
the Central Vermont Railroad to Swanton, where connection is made
with the

. ST. JOHNSBURY & LAKE CHAMPLAIN RAILROAD,

The next link in the line under consideration. The route from Rouse's
Point, via Lake Champlain, is exceedingly pleasant, the scenery being
that of the lovely lake, and the Green Mountains of Vermont. Shel-
don Springs are on the line of this road, and it is also a direct roiifce
to Mount Mansfield. Both these localities have acquii-ed no little
celebrity as summer resoits.

At Morrisville, connection is made for Mount Mansfield by stage
line, and such as wish to visit the locality will find an excellent stop-
ping place at Mt. Mansfield House. The mountain is in the town of
Stowe, about twenty miles northeast of Montpelier, and its height is
4,359 feet above the level of the sea.

The Green Mountains of Vermont are a portion of the great Appa-
lachian range, extending almost continuously from near the St. Law-
rence River, in Canada, through the entire length of Vermont, across
the western part of Massachusetts and the middle Atlantic States, to
the northern part of Alabama. The White Mountains of New Hamp-
shii'e, and the Adirondacks and Catskills of New York are regarded as
outlying spurs of this chain. This range is remarkable for the uni-
formity of outline which characterizes the diiferent peaks, particularly
of their summits, the ridges extending in the same general direction,
sometimes hardly diverging from a straight line for a distance of fifty
or sixty miles. Where the mountain chains are parallel, the ridges are
also in i)arallel lines, preserving their general direction, and, to a won-
derful extent, a uniformity of distance between them. When one
curves round in a new direction, all curve with it.

These general peculiarities ai"e less marked in the mountains of Ver-
mont than in the more southerly portions of the same chain. In fact,
the peculiar characteristics of the range, as a whole, are less marked at
both its northern and southern extremities, the termination at either
end not being well defined, as the mountains sink away and ai'e lost in
the liilly country that succeeds to them.

The Green Mountain peaks are also less bold and abru])t than those
of the White Mountains, being covered mostly with verdure to theii*
very summits, and presenting less of sharji or nigged outline in their
general conformation. To many visitors, this feature is pleasing and
agreeable, and a large class of summer tourists spend a portion or all
of the season in the vicinity of the "beautiful hills " of the " Green
Mountain State."

At St. Johnsbury the line intersects the Passumpsic Railroad, and
a description of the- route from this point will be given in the following
chapter, in connection with the trip from Quebec and Montreal.

jME .MoUlQTi^IT)

HE route from the West to the
seaboard via Montreal and Que-
bec, as arranged over recently com-
pleted lines of travel, naturally
extends through the charming re-
gion of the celebrated White Hills
of New Hampshire. From Mont-
real, or any point beyond, this
popular resort is easy 'of access by
several routes, all of them ])ossess-
ing some special attraction to in-
vite the tourist to give them a trial.
From Quebec, the tourist may re-
turn to Montreal, by boat or rail,
"'*■'' or may proceed directly to the

mountains by the Quebec Central Railway to Sherbrooke, thence via
the Passumpsic Railroad to St. Johnsbury, Bethlehem and Fabyans, in
the veiy heart of the White Mountain region.

If the trip be made byway of Montreal, the mountains may be reached
via the Grand Trunk, the Southeastern, or the Central Vermont.
The route by the Grand Trunk, is by way of Gorham, and the eastern
side of the mountains. By the Southeastern, the line is to Newport
and St. Johnsbury. The Central Vermont line offers two routes ; one
to Montpelier, there connecting with the Montpelier &. Wells River
Radroad, or by way of Swanton, thence by the Portland and Ogdens-
burg line to St. Johnsbury, which thus seems to be made the focus of all
the various lines having the same general direction, and leading to the
mountain region.

At Newport, reached by the Southeastern from Montreal, or the
Quebec Central from Quebec, the celebrated Lake Memphremagog is
the chief attraction, and the dining station is at the splendid hotel bear-
ing the same name as the lake. It is a popular summer resort, and
the steamer on the lake makes frequent trips for thet accommodation of
tourists. Several mountains, comprising Jay Peak, Owl's Head, Mount

THE WHITE .AJOUNTAINS. 81

Oxford, Mount Ele])]iantis and the Willouglil)y Mountains are amou"-
the atti-aetions of the ticinity.

St. Johnsbury is situated on the Passumpsic Rivei', at the intersec-
tion of the Passumpsic and St. Johnsl)ury it Lake t'hanijjLiin Piail-
roads ; and in acklition to the attractiveness of its location from a scenic
point of view, it has attained much prominence as a manufactui-inif
town, the heaviest enterprise in that direction being the production oi
the celebrated Fairl)anks scales, known the world over for their excel-
lence and correctness. The St. Johnsbury House and Avenue Hotel
are good places of entertainment.

Eastward from St. Johnsbury the route lies over the St. Johnsbury
A Lake Ghamplain Eailroad to Lunenburg, the western terminus of the
Portland division of the P. & O. line. From this point, a ride of an
hour brings us into the very midst of the glorious White Hills, iuid in
full view of the grand

PRESIDENTIAL RANGE,

Stretching before the vision in a glorious and lieautiful panorama, with
the peerless Washington above them all. This approach to the mount-
ains atiords the most comprehensive view of the ]:)iincipjal range ; and
the Westerner, who has always been accustomed to broad expanses of
prairie, with no greater elevations, perhaps, than the height of an ordi-
nary church stee})le, will be peculiarly imjjressed with the grandeur of
the scene before him.

The first important station is Bethlehem Junction, three miles
from Bethlehem village, the "paradise of hay-fever sufferers." This
lovely hamlet enjoys the distinction of having the highest location of
any town in the United States east of the Rockies and north of the
Carolinas ; and the remarkable purity of its atmosphere not only secures
exemption from the peculiar malady which drives so many to its pu-o-
tection, Ijut heightens the effect of the views to be had of the surround-
ing country. Owing to its commanding position, and the i-emark:i)ile
clearness of the atmosphere, the view of the moimtains fiom " Beth-
lehem Street " is confessedly the best to be had anywhere.

The village is rendered accessible to the traveler by means of a re-
cently constructed narrow-gauge railroad, from Bethlehem Junction to
the end of the " street." Al)Out midway on the line of this road is the
magnificent hotel known as Maplewood, kept in superb style, and at
its terminus is the well-known Sinclair Hoisk, Durgin ct Fox pro-
])rietoi's. In addition to these palace hotels, a host of smaller ones, and
a long list of V)oarding-houses. furnish abiding places for the midtitudes
who "tarry for a night," or make this place their sunmier home.

Bethlehem is also the railroad connection for the famous Franconia
Notch, by means of a narrow-gauge railroad, extending into the val-
ley and terminating near the Profile House. The attractions of this
locality are sufficiently important to demand special notice by them-
selves ; and we therefore keep straight on in our course, the next stop

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

being at tlie Twin Mountain House, so named from its proximity to
the " Twin Mountains," one of which is visible from the hoteL This

house has for many years been the summer home of Henry Ward
Beecher, who addresses large congregations of Sunday excursionists
during the season.

Four miles further, and we stop at the White Mountain House,
one of the oklest of the mountain hotels, a veritable " tavern " of the
earlier days, with less of style than its more pretentious neighbors, but

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 83

with a large stock of good cheer and hospitable care for its guests, at
moderate prices. Only a mile from the Fabyan House, the would-be
guests of the latter are sometimes compelled, from an over-taxation of
its immense capacities, to fall back on the resources of mine host
Rounsevel, who gives them the best his house aftbrds, and bids them
''be therewith content."

;the fabyan house,

Six miles from the base of Mount Washington, is one of the most com-
plete establishments of its kind in all the mountain region, having ac-
commodations for five hundred guests. It is situated on a beautiful
intervale, at an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet above sea
level, and its piazzas afford a fine view of the White Mountain range.
It is also a central point from which excursions are made to the vari-
ous resorts within easy reach by rail or carriage. The traveler may
find, in this vicinity, an opportunity to enjoy a relic of the " good old
days " of stage-coaching, which the railway has not succeeded in en-
tii'ely abolishing, although it has largely superseded the conveyance
once so popular in the mountain region.

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON.

From the Fabyan House, the railroad has been extended to the
base of Mount Washington, there connecting with the wonderful ele-
vated railway to the summit, thus forming a continuous all-rail line to
the realm above the clouds. The six miles of road to the base of the
mountain compasses some of the steepest grades known to railroad en-
gineering. A powerful engine, of the six-drive-wheel construction, is
required to propel a very moderate load of passengers, and as it la-
boriously puffs along the grades, the forests echo and re-echo with the
sound, while the traveler feels thankful that the iron horse, instead of
flesh and blood, is being employed in his service.

Mt. Pleasant Hotel is passed a short distance from Fabyan's, and a
short distance from here are the Wild Ammonoosuc Falls, a natural
curiosity well worthy of a visit. The river descends "about fifty feet,
in a broken, u-regular way, and in some places has worn curious chan-
nels in the rocks, resembling a cauldron, in which the water seethes
and boils in its downward course, and issues laughing, singing and
leaping in its wild and merry race for the intervales below."

The Mount Washington Railway is one of the wonders of mod-
ern engineering skill. It was chartered by the Legislature of New
Hampshire, in 1858, the passage of the bill being regarded as the huge
joke of the session, one member offering to amend it by "extending it
to the moon," either terminal being regarded as equally liable to be-
come a f^ict. In spite of obstacles, however, its construction was suc-
cessfully accomplished, by the combined ingenuity of the projector and
inventor, Sylvester Marsh, the mechanical skill of Walter Aiken, who
Ijuilt the engine and cars, and the financial aid and " push " of friendly

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

mclividuals ami interested railway companies. It was completed in
1869, and has carried thousands up and down tlie mountain without
the slightest injiiry to any, so complete is the system of safety appli-
ances in use, each independent of the other, and any one sufficient in
itself to insure complete safety. The writer was once an eye-witness to
the severest test to which it has ever yet been siibjected, caused l)y the
breakage of one of the gear driving wheels of the locomotive. The re-
sultant disarrangement of the machinery set in o}ieration the automatic
safeguards, prodiicing the eti'ect of instantly holding the train to the
track as firmly as though it had been bolted to the solid rock. Indeed,
it was with no little difficulty that it was liberated, and enabled to
pioceed.

The accompanying illusti-ation gives a good idea of the o))eration of

the road. In
addition to the
ordinary rails
I >f t lie common
L^ railroad, there
„ - ^ i^ i*^ '^ toothed

: -• " ""-=-- _^ rail midway
between, in
; ^_--- which there

,L „.^.,^v' "'meshes" the

■^ geai-ed wheel

attached to the axle of the loco-
motive, which thus steadily
dimhs up the mountain by the revo-
lution of the machineiy. All the
axles, both of the engine and passenger
coach, are provided with geared wheels,
by means of which the train could be
instiintly anchored to the track, as in
tlie case above cited. Each car has
its own locomotive, and will carry
about tifty passengers. The seats ure inclined backward, so as to be
in a good position on ascending the mountain. The car is always
above the engine, both in the ascent and descent. The latter is accom-
plished by gravitation alone, the bi-akes being kept in requisition to
hold the train in check.

The ride np the mountain constitutes an experience never to be for-
gotten. Leaving Ammonoosuc Station, as the starting point at the
base is called, the train immediately surmoixnts a considerable eleva-
tion l)efore emerging fi-om the forest, which is soon left behind as we
rise above the " tree-line," and reach the region of stinited shrubs,
which in turn give place to moss and lichens, and finally to rocks, bare
of vegetation, and as cheerless as it is ])0ssible to imagine. Above the
trees, the prospect broadens, as the landscape spreads out in a grand

MT ^\ V^HI^GTO^ K4.IL^\ W

86 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

panorama, almost illimitable, and of wonderful grandeur and beauty.
Several stops are made for water, wliicli is taken from large tanks fed
by mountain springs, far above, and conducted down in pipes. These
stopping places have been appro]iriately named, according to their lo-
cation, such as Waumbek Station, Gulf Station, etc., the latter being
near the yawning chasm in the mountain-side, named the Gl'LF of
Mexico. Banks of snoAv may frequently be seen in its recesses, even
in midsummer, and a game of snowballing is not an uncommon August
recreation.

^^:

-K.K

"gulf of MEXICO," MT. WASHINGTON.

Jacob's Ladder is a long section of trestle work, with a consider-
able elevation and steep inclination, after passing which the grade di-
minishes somewhat, as the road winds around the crown of the
mountain.

Near the summit is a pile of rocks surmounted by a tablet, known
as the "Lizzie Bourne Monument," marking the spot where the young
lady perished from exposure, in September, 1855 ; having undertaken
the ascent of the mountain in company with two male relatives, with-
out a guide, and becoming chilled and bewildered, she lost her way, and
<ies{)airingly sank down to die almost in sight of the summit.

bearing the summit, the view changes, as the scenery of the east-
ern side comes in view. The highhmds of Maine are now the back-
ground of the ])icture, with intervening valleys, lakes and rivers, while
far below, the white buildings of the Glen House dot the landscape as
a mere speck in the lovely valley in which they nestle.

The trip from base to summit occu})ies about an hour and a quarter,
the distance being three miles, with an average grade of 1,300 feet to
the mile, the most abrujjt ascent being in the proportion of one foot in

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

three. An ajiproximate idea of this grade may be had by placing a
yard-stick upon a level surface, as a table, and raising one end of it a
foot, with the other end upon the table. Then imagine a train of cars
climV)ing siich an ascent, and you have a fair conception of the grade ; but
the most vivid imagination would fail to take in the sensations actually
experienced in the journey.

LIZZIE BOUKNE MONUMENT.

THE MOUNT WASHINGTON SUMMIT HOUSE.

The provisions for the entertainment of guests at the summit were
formerly very limited, a few rude stone structures furnishing shelter for
such as dared brave the hardships of a night in the clouds. But now
all is changed. The capacious and comfortable building which serves
the double purpose of depot and hotel, not only provides comfortable
shelter, but a tirst-class table and excellent fiire for about one hundred
and fifty guests. The house was opened to the public in 1873, and has
been in successful operation since, sometimes being taxed to its utmost
capacity.

The view from the summit is indescribably grand. At an altitude
of 6,193 feet, or more than a mile and one-fifth above sea-level, the line
of vision bounds a circle neaidy a thousand miles in circumference ; and
within that circle are lakes, rivers, mountains, valleys, dark forests, smil-
ing villages, and in fact a variety of scenery, ever changing as the gaze is

THE WHITE .MOUNTAINS.

directed to the. different points of the compass. In a clear day, the dis-
tant glimmer of the Athmtic may be seen, away to the southeast. A
little more to the south a brighter gleam i-eveals the location of Lake
Winnipesaukee, while the Saco valley and Chocorua Mountain are in the
nearer foreground. Turning still to the right, you see other moiuit-
ains of the j-ange on whose highes^^t summit you are standing, JVIount
Monroe, the Twin Ponds, Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, Mount
Willey, the scene of the famous "slide," and lesser elevations beyond.

MOUNTS ADAMS AND MADISOX.

Westward, away in the dim distance, the horizon is broken by the
Green Moimtains of Vermont, with an occasional view of the remote
Adirondacks in New York ; while nearer, you see the valley of the Am-
monoosuc, the Fabyan House, Bethlehem, Mount Lafayette, and the ex-
panse of forest which tills the picture. To the northwest, the villages of
Littleton, Jefferson and Lancaster appear, while in the distance, to the
north, the table lands of Canada unite with the sky in bounding the ho-
rizon. To the northeast, the eye reaches to the unbroken forests of
Maine. Mount Katahdin throws its dim outline against the sky, while in
the foreground Mounts Jefferson, Adams and Madison tower grandly up
before you as a grim body-guard to Washington. Nestled in the glen.

AMIin M(H M Vl\^ 1 lioM .lEFFERSON.

-^ ^^

CLIMBING MOUNT JEFFERSON.

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

the white hotel buildings of the Glen Hoiise establishment are visible ;
while near at hand, towai'd the southeast. Mount Jackson appears, and
in the distance, the Pequaket or Kiarsarge may be seen, together with
Sebago Lake in Maine.

SUNRISE ON MOUNT WASHINGTON.

The grand, culminating view from this lofty point of observation is
to be had at the rising of the sun. For this incomparable prospect you
must spend a night among the clouds, .and perchance more than one

DISTANT VIEW OF MOLXT WASHINGTON.

night, as nature is fickle at that altitude as well as in the valleys below,
and not nnfrequently " old Sol " has half a forenoon's work before him
to dispel "the mists of the piorning " before his face is visible to the
watchers on the summit. Should you be fiivored. however, with both
a clear sunrise and sunset in one day, as was the writer on the occasion
of his first visit, you will cherish in tlie chambers of memory the most
enchanting pictures of a lifetime. Sunset at sea has awakened the lyre
of many a poet, and inspired the pencil of many a painter ; but neither
pen nor pencil can give an adequate picture of the beauties of a sunrise
as viewed from the summit of Mount Washington.

At early dawn the inmates of the house are roused, and such as

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

clioose arise and dress, and take tlieir position on thi; platt'orni east of
the building, to watcli for the first apj^earance of the "golden orb of
day." Beneath you the valleys are still in slumber, and a deep gloom is
spread over all, in sharp contrast with the light of dawn which already
illumines the mountain peaks around you. Banks of mist here and there
indicate th^ location of bodies of water, and possibly overhanging clouds
may partially hide soms of the mountain summits from view.

All eyes are turned expectantly towards the east, which is beginning
to show a flint rosy tinge, deepening every moment till it reaches a
crimson or jjerhaps a golden hue, a fitting couch from which the l)rill-
iant day king is about to spring forth to enter upon his glorious reign.

TIP-TOP HOUSE IX WINTER.

Suddenly one point in the eastern horizon grows moi-e intensely bx-ight
than all the rest, and the disc of the sim is then discernible, quickly in-
creasing in proportions until the broad face of the great luminary so
dazzles the eye as to compel a withdrawal of the gaze.

Looking then into the valleys below, the effect is transcendently
beautiful. While the spectator is bathed in the full golden sunshine,
the somber shadows are just beginning to flit away, presenting in the
strongest possible manner the contrasts of light and shatle ; and not
until some minutes have elapsed, does the new l)orn-day reach down into
the deepest valleys to drive forth the lingering remnants of night.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

The view of the mountain peaks around, as, one after another, ac-
corcUng to their height, they are toiiched by the rays of the rising sun,
is very beautiful; and even the dullest mind can scarcely resist the en-
thusiastic inspiration awakened by the scene. And then, as the sun
mounts steadily upward, giving heat as well as light with his cheering
rays, the mists below are slowly dispelled, and nature puts on her most
bewitching countenance, with her gloomy frowns banished, supplanted
by the sweetest smiles.

Such is but a faint description of a sunrise witnessed by the writer.
The picture will vary with the changing circumstances, and that which
it may be the reader's fortune to behold, though entirely unlike it, may
be none the less beautiful and enchanting.

MOUNT GARFIELD.

Tlie old Tip-Top and Summit Houses still stand, together with the
buildings of the U. S. Signal Service, the ticket-office and station of the
Glen House stage line, with its stables, and the engine house of the
railway. The oflace of Among the Clouds, a daily paper, occupies the
old Tip-Top House ; and in the Signal Service building a band of reso-
lute men brave the rigors of winter in the interests of science, recording
the temperature, the velocity of the wind, etc. With the thermometer
at hfty degrees below zero, and the wind blowing with a velocity of one

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

hundred and titty miles an hour, it must requii-e nerves of steel and a
hardy constitution to survive the ordeal.

The old bridle path from the Crawford House to the summit is still
employed by those who wish to make the ascent, as in the " good old
days," but the favorite method, next to the railroad trip, is by the

GLEN HOUSE STAGE LINE.

The road is eight miles in length, and by skillfiil engineering has been
so built as to rise, on an average, only about one foot in eight, the
steepest place being one foot in six, and that for a short distance only,
rendering the ascent easy and comfortable. Passengers by way of

MOUNT WASHINGTON CAKRIAGE BOAD.

Gorham, on the Grand Trunk, reach the siimmit by this method, and
then have the privilege of descending by rail on the other side.

Tuckerman's Ravine, an immense seam in the side of Mount Wash-
ington, may be explored from the summit, or by following up the stream
which takes its rise in this gorge. The chasm is filled to a great dejrth
by the snows of winter, which, in the process of melting, form beautiful
arches, sometimes visible till late in the summer.

Keturning to the base, we are again at the Fabyan House, from
which point we may make excursions in various directions, the excellent
livery in connection furnishing carriages and trusty drivers, who will
act as guides, and give interesting information to those in theu' charge.

Before proceeding in our onward joui-ney toward the sea, let us re-
trace our steps for a visit to the famous Franconia Valley.

FRANCONIA NOTCH.

Fnmconia Kotch ,

From Bethlehem station, as })reviously mentioned, the Profile &
Franconia Notch Railroad extends to this resort, which is one of the
most popuhir in the White Mountain region. Its crowning attraction
is the celebrated Profile, so widely known as "The Old Man of the
Mountain." This colossal copy of the luiman face is to be seen on the

OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN. — DISTANT VIEW.

southern side of Profile Mountain, with l)old and high forehead,
sti'fught nose, slightly parted mouth, and jn'oniinent chin. From fore-
head to chin, the face measures some eighty feet, and the elevation is
some fifteen hundred feet above Profile Lake, which, fiom its location,
is sometimes called " The Old Man's Mirror," and -'The Old Man's
Washbowl."

Profile House, an elegant and roomy hotel, with accommodations
for five hundred guests, is not the least attractive feature of the neigh-
boi'liood, its great popularity often filling it to overflowing, even be-
fore the railroad made it so easy of access. Messrs. Taft & Greenleaf,
the })i-0}>rietors, are among the most successful hotel managers in all
the region.

Mount Lafayette, the highest peak of the Franconian range, has
an altitiide of 5,259 feet, and the view from the summit is regarded as
second only to that from Blount Washington. The ascent is made by

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

')■■

^•'?i??:-v,.

^If\

bridle path from tlie Profile House, where horses, guides, etc., are to
be foimd at the service of the tourist. A building at the summit af-
fords shelter from inclement weather, or the severe winds which some-
times prevail at such an elevation.

Eagle Cliff, a huge crag, with precipitous front, towers up to the
height of fifteen hundred feet, directly in front of the hotel. A paii" of
eagles made it their home for some years, until
driven away by the curiosity of explorers. A
fine ^•iew of the Cliff is to be had from Echo
Lake, which nestles at its base, and is one of
the most charming little bodies of water to be
found. The blast of a horn, or the repoi't of a
small cannon, fired at intervals to " wake the
echoes," reverberates against the sides of the
(Jliff and the rocky walls which environ the
lake, with a succession of sharp and dis-
tinct lepctitions, gi owing fainter and
funteij.md hn ill\ dvin<i away among
the fai ofi cliffs ^\lth .in ctitct as beau-
tiful as it IS suipiising

The Piohle House stands at the gate-
\\<i> of the Notch the appi'oach being
fiom the north.
On either side
of the gorge,
the Franconia
1 mge extends
in a southerly
direction, La-
f lyette, Lin-
I. oln and Lib-
( 1 1 y on the
t 1st, Profile.
Kinsman and
Pemigewasset
M)n the west,
w ith several
lesser peaks
and spurs, the
valley gi'actu-
ally descend-
ing to the
south, and

widening in the descent, until it expands into the Yalley of the Pem-
igewasset.

Three miles from the Profile House, a path diverges from the road
near a small brook, and a walk of half a mile brings to view a succes-

EAGLE CLIFF.

FRANCONIA NOTCH.

sion of picturesque waterfalls, which have received the name of
mLKER's Falls. A half mile further south is the Basin, a curious

XEAK VIEW OF TUE I'liUElLE.

,-ranite reservoir, about forty feet across, and ^^ f T^^^^^^^^
ui which the waters make a gyratory turn, a er l^;;f ^^^^l^^^^
Five miles from the Profile House, near the lowei gateway

I «i 1 1

FRANCOXIA JKJINIAINS, IKciM I'l _:M 1. 1; W ASSET VALLEY.

MOUNT LAFAYETTE

FRANCONIA NOTCH.

101

ISTotcli, is the Fi.ume House, so named from its proximity to the rocky
raviiie, between whose walls the Great Boulder is suspended, as thoiiyh
ready to fall at the slightest provocation. As these j^ages are beim»'
printed, the telegraph brings the news that the ravine has been choked
by an avalanche, and the fall of the boulder is reported. When the
book is in the hands of its readers, the correctness of the repoi-t will
have been determined, but at this writing it cannot be verified.

The Pool, the C'ascades, Georgianna Falls, Mount Pemigewasset, and

FLUME AND BOULDEK.

other objects of interest, are to be visited from tlie Fi;ime House. A
stage i-oute extends from the Profile House to Plymouth, via the
Pemigewasset, and before the completion of the railroad from Bethle-
hem, was the principal method of conveyance to this locality.

It is still a favorite with many ti'avelers, being, as above indicated,
a direct route to Plymouth, a favorite resort on the Boston, Concord,
ct Montreal Railroad. Those wishing to reach Boston by this route
may connect by stage with the trains at Plymoiith, or, returning to
Bethlehem, may take the trains of this road, which run via Wing
Boad, Littleton, Warren, Wells River, Plymouth and Lake Winnipe-
saukee, to Concoz'd, thence by Concord, Lowell k Boston Railroad, to
the metropolis of New England. This is a })opular route between
Boston and the mountains, and is very largely patronized in the
summer.

LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE.

103

Near Warren, on this line, is Moosilauke, a mountain peak of some
celebrity, which from its comparatively isolated position, atJbrtls a very
fine view from its summit. The town boasts of fff^j .miles of trout
streams, and several excellent hotels provide good accommodations for
such as desire to "drop the line," or s]i('nd a season in recreation.

O^VL"!^ HEAD AND 3I00SILAUKE MOUNTAIN.

The Pemigewasset House, at Plymouth, is the dining station of
the B. C. ife M. R. P., and has an almost national reputation for the
excellence of its cuisine. Jt is also a favorite summer resort hotel.

The beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee is reached at Weirs Station
and Steamboat lianding. This sheet of water, irregular in its boundaries,
studded with hundreds of islands, and bordered by some of the finest
scenery in the world, has obtained almost a world-wide fame, being
visited by thousands of tourists every season. Weii-s Station is on the
western shore ; and within a few years has becoine celebrated as the loca-
tion of a permanent camp-ground, occupied in tarns by the Methodists,

104

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

tilt' Unitaiians, and the Grand Ai'my of the Repul)]ic. Several hotels
and summer boarding houses have been built to accommodate the in-
ci'easing demands of tourists who wisli to tarry by the margin of the
lake, and enjoy its lovely scenery, and bathe and fish in its waters, or
ride over its surface among its myriad islands. Center Harbor, on
its north shore, Wolfboro on the east, and Alton Bay on the south, are
all well-known summer resorts, and the ride between these points by
steamer constitutes a delightful trip. Two boats of considerable size,
the " Lady of the Lake, " owned hj the Boston, Concord & Montreal
Railroad, and the " Moimt Washington, " the property of the Boston

PEMlGK\VA:^Sh,T HOUSE, PLyMOUTH, K. U.

tfe Maine Eailroad, together with several smaller craft, constitute tht^
ilotilla ; and their fi-equent trips among the islands and between the
principal ports just mentioned atibrd opportunity to enjoy the attrac-
tions of Winnipesaukee, and to i-ealize the signitlcance of its Indian ti-
tle, which is translated "Smile of the Great Spirit. "

The " Weirs " takes its name from having formerly been the location
of the fish-weirs of the aborigines, whence an unlimited supply of food
was drawn, in the days before the shriek of the locomotive, or even the
crack of the stage-driver's whip, lu'oke the stillness of the adjacent
forests.

From Weirs Station the route to Boston is via Concord, Man-
chester, Nashua, and I-owell.

106 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

White Moimtam Koteh,

The route from Fabyan House to Portland extends through this fa-
mous pass, over the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad ; and the ride
is one of the most delightful trips by rail to be afforded east of the
Pocky Mountains, and with the exception of the ascent to the summit
of Mount Washington, is the grandest and most imjjressive. The rail-
way itself is a wonder, overcoming, in its construction, obstacles that
might appall the stoutest-hearted engineer. Rimning here upon a lofty
trestle, clinging now to the side of a mountain, winding around the base
of some overhanging clitl', again bridging some mountain stream far
above its bed, it thi-eads its devious way through the pass, abolishing
the fatigue and hardship incident to mountain visiting, and affording a
panoramic view of scenery unsurpassed for variety, novelty and
grandeur.

The trip through the Notch is made in Observation Cars, which are
attached to all trains. These are open at the sides, and provided with
revolving arm chairs, thus affording an outlook in all directions, adding
materially to the pleasure of the joiirney. The first five miles accom-
plished, and we are at

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE,

Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either
in going or returning, this will be found a desii-able stopping place, as
there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is
spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of moun-
tain-climbing by " brute force, " it was the starting point of the bridle
path to the summit of Mount Washington ; but the hardy mountain
ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the " iron horse," no
less trusty, but vastly less romantic.

Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a dimin-
utive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it ab-
soi'bs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in tiu-ning the busy
wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost in
the Atlantic.

Gibes' Falls, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by
a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former
landlord of the house.

Beecher's Cascade, a half mile distant, may have had some other
name, but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism expe-
rienced by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth
Church, but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly
involuntary.

Mount Willard, sometimes called Moimt Tom, or Tom Willard, al-
though not of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation
from its summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The

108

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

view is highly praised l:)y good judges, Anthony Ti-ollope declaring it
uneiju lied in all the cl.issic Ehineland. Standing at the very gate of
the Notch, it commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the differ-
ent mountains whii^h encompass it, together with a splendid jirospect
to the west and north.

HERMIT S POOL, FKANCOXIA NOTCH.

Silver Cascade and the Flume Cascade are two of the attractions of
the locality, which leap down the sides of Moimt Webster in glorious
disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver,
gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking
into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as
if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, sing-
ing and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to
the sea.

WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 109

The Willey House, memorable as the scene of the disaster known
in history as the " Willey Slide, " is located under the steep acclivity of
Mount Willey, Avhich rises some 2,()0() feet aljove the house. Opposite
are the frowning clilis of Mount Welister, with the Saco Kiver flowing
near. The story of the fearful calamit}^ is familiar, Imt its I'epetition.
may be of interest to our readers. On the night of August 2i<, 182tJ, a
terrible storm occiirred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and
loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey,
sending it down the mountain side with a fearfiil roar, threatening de-
struction to everything in its path. M r. Willey, his wife, live children,
and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house ; and it is sup-
posed that they became -frightened and fled from the iiouse to escape
the peril, and rushed into the very ja-ws of death, lieing overwhelmed
in the avalanche, not one es'caping to tell the tale. The faithful house-
dog, however, appeared at Conway, antl endeavored to give intelligence
of what had happened by all the resources of his jiower of communica-
tion. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but three of the
children found permanent burial in the debris. The saddest feature of
the calamity is the fact that had they remained in the house no harm
would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back of the house di-
vided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving the building un-
touched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the track of the
avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth of white
birches.

Avalanche Brook, so called from being regarded as the cause of
the disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the Sylvan Glade
Cataract, and higher up, another called Sparkling Cascade.

Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train
are pointed out by the condiictor and trainmen, and an occasional halt
is made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance.
If time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations,
and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege
or not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition de-
sired and longed for.

Below Willey ^Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse,
and the scenery becomes less wild and I'omantic, biit none the less
beautiful with the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a tine specimen
of engrneering skill, and is ciossed by the train, giving the courageous
passengers a chance to peer into the deep gulf which it s[)ans, and the
timid ones occasion to " hold their breath " at the thought of a possible
tumble, should '-anything happen." The bridge, however, gives no oc-
casion for fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not puntlerous in
appearance.

A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous
Frankenstein Trestle, an iron structure five hundred feet long and
eighty feet high. Near this are the Giant's Stairs, Mount Resolu-
tion and Mount Crawford, the latter nearly opjjosite Beinis Station.

SCENES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. P. & O. RAILROAD.

WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCIT.

Ill

Near here is the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel
Crawford, the pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named,
" kept tavern " for many years, and told stories and legends of the
mountains to his guests, and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts
of the shy trout, or to mountain summits, by paths long forgotten.
His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount
Washington, in 1821.

VALLEY OF THE SACO RIVEK.

ISTancy's Brook is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad
incident involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover
who tied on the eve of the appointed wedding day, jnirsued by the poor
girl, who perished from exposure, and was foiind in the snow at the
foot of a tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name
her mother gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event with-
out involving the family name.

Sawyer's Eiver is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the east-
ward, and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as Saw-
yer's Rock commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the

112

CHICA(iO TO THE SEA.

accomplishment of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a
horse through the Notch, for wliich feat, as an evidence of the existence
of the pass, Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received fi-om
Governor Wentwoi'th a grant of land known as Nash &. Sawyer's Lo-
cation. The last obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down
over it by means of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his I'um bottle
against it, which sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears.

At Cti.en Station, connection is made with the stage line for the
Glen House up the valley of Ellis Ei\er and through Pinkham Notch.
Should the traveler feel disposed to make this triji, he will find much
to reward him in the way of pictui'esque scenery, pleasant drives, etc.
At a short distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a tine
waterfall, known as Goodrich Falls may be seen. Passing the little
village of "Jackson City," the road soon enters the i)ass known as
Pinkham Notch, named from a family of early settlers, who con-
structed the Notch road.

GLEX-ELLIS FALL.

Glen-Ellis Fall may be reached by a path diverging from the
stage road. The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet
high. From its contiguration it was formerly called " Pitcher Fall," but
the more poetic but less descriptive title seems to cling to it.

NORTH CONWAY.

118

THE GLEN HOUSE,

Previously mentioned as a Hne hostelry, is the terminus of the stage
line. Here you will meet guests who have come by stage from Gor-
ham, eight miles distant, on the Grand Trunk Kaihvay, or from the
summit of Mount Washington, by the carriage road already described.
This location is more than sixteen hundred feet above sea-level, and the
clear, bracing atmosphere, the magnificent scenery, and the delightful
drives in several directions, together with the excellent manner in which
fhe hotel is kejit, are sufficient to account for its popularity and success.
In the matter of stage-line management, it pi-obably has no superior in
the world, that which conveys the passengers up the carriage road to
the summit of Mount Washington being notably superior in point of
equipment, and the well-known skill of its drivers.

Excursions may be made from here to the Carter Notch, Osgood's
Cascades, Summit of Mount Madison, Garnet Pools, Emerald Pool,
Thompson's Falls, Glen-Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman's Ra-
vine, and many other places of more than ordinary interest.

APPROACH TO NOKTH CONWAY. — P. dc O. R. R.

But again taking up our line of travel at Glen Station, the train soon
emerges upon the beautiful Conway Intervales, Intervale Station V)eing
the next stopping place. The Intervale House, near by, is a pleasant
abode for those who choose to tarry. A short distance beyond is North
Conway, a village of multitudinous attractions, and with a popularity as
a summer resort that is siu-prising to the casual visitor, who, although
seeing much to admire, fails to comprehend the peculiar coml)inations
whicli l)ring people year after year to spend their summers in the vicinity.
Superticially, the most attractive objects conspicuously visible are the
hotels. The spacioiis Kiarsaroe House seems a veritable paradise for

114

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

the traveler, and its tables are unexcelled. The views from its veran-
dahs are superior, comprising the mountain ranges, the famous Pequaket
or Kiarsarge Mountain, and the lovely Intervales, upon which the vil-
lage is situated. The mountain from which the hotel receives its name is
about three miles from the village, and the ascent may be made in the
saddle or on foot. The altitude is .3,367 feet, and the view from the
summit comprises the entire White Mountain Range, together with Mote
Mountain, Rattlesnake Ridge, Sebago Lake with other bodies of water
of less magnitude, and a stretch of landscape in every direction most
pleasing to the eye, less grand and rugged, to be sure, than that we
have been describing, but on that account more restful to the senses.

KIARSARGE HOUSE AND MOUNTAIN. DISTANT VIEW.

The other attractions at North Conway consist of Artist's Falls, Echo
Lake, tlie Cathedral and Ledges, Diana's Baths, the Devil's Den, and
a host of lovely drives in various directions, with sylvan paths for pe-
destriauism ad lihifam.

Conway Center, tive miles southeast of North Conway, is the next
station, and has many charms as a summer resort. Mount Chocorua,
with a shai-p pinnacle, towering up 3,540 feet above sea-level, is reached
from here to good advantage, as is also Walker Pond, a short distance
south of the town.

We are now in the "smiling valley " of the Saco River, in the midst
of cultivated farms and peaceful villages, in striking contrast with the

8EUA(i() LAKE.

115

scenery just left behind. Crossing the boundary line between New
Hampshii-e and Maine, our next station is Frveburg, whicli some po-
etic writer has called the " Queen of the 8aco Valley. " It is indeed
a lovely town, embowered in deep foliage, and affording the visitor
most delightful drives. Jockey Cap, a huge granite pile, is near the

L'rr;-

MOUNT KIAKSARGE, OK I'EQUAKET.

village ; and close by is Lovewell's Pond, the scene of an Indian l)att]e
in 1725. Mount Pleasant is only seven miles distant, and has upon its
summit a fine hotel.

Passing m quick succession the stations of Browniield, Hiram, the
three Baldwins, and 8teep Falls, we reach

SEBAGO LAKE,

Seventeen miles from Portland, and forty-three from North Conway.
For a short distance before reaching the lake, the run is devoid of in-
terest and exceedingly tame ; but as the road skirts the shores of this
beautifiil sheet of water, and its broad expanse stretches away in the
distance, bounded by wooded shores and sandy beeches, the change is
magical, and the contrast a most pleasing one. Sebago itself is twelve
miles long and nine miles wide, and is connected with Long Pond by
means of Songo River and the "Bay of Naples," formerly "Brandy
Pond," — before the days of the " Maine law." The entire chain of
lakes, river and bay affords a steamboat ride of sixty-eight miles in the
round trip. Bridgton, one of the steamer-landings on Loni; Pond, is
the birth-place of the genial humorist " Artemus Ward." From Port-
land, a pleasant and popular tiip consists of a ride to Sebago by the

MOUNT DESERT ISI.ANL). 117

morning train, a tri[) over the lake to Jiridgton, returning in time for
the evening train to Portlanil.

And thither, in the continuation of our excursion, we too mnst go.
Only seventeen miles more of our long and delightfvd journey " from
Chicago to the Sea " remain to be traversed. Almost regretfully we
linger over the few last leagues of the trip, but remembering that either
way from Portland our excursion may be lengthened indefinitely, we
resume our seats in the train, and in fifty minutes are in

THE METROPOLIS OF MAINE.

Portland is pleasantly situated on a narrow peninsula projecting
from the west shore of Casco Bay. This peninsula is about three miles
in length from east to west, with considerable elevations at each end,
giving the city a beautiful appearance as approached from the sea.
Its harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, being deep and ca-
pacious, and pi'otected by land on all sides. The city is beaiitifully
laid out, its public buildings are fine, and many of its private residences
elegant.

The commercial and business interests of the city are extensive and
important, the value of the shipping owned in the district being very
great, and its manufactures employing a large amount of capital. The
railroads centering here are the Portland it Ogdensburg, Portland <k
Rochester, Boston &, Maine, Eastern, Maine Central, and Grand Trunk.

The leading hotels of Portland are the Falmouth, United states,
Preble, City, Kirkland, aiid Merchants.

The climate of Portland is remarkably salubrious, the city being
peculiai-ly exempt from epidemics, or climatic diseases of any kind.
The source of water supply (Sebago Lake), and the excellent facilities
for drainage, undoubtedly contribute much to the healthfulness of the
locality. These circumstances, together with the pi'oximity of beaches
and other resorts, render Pox'tland a desirable place for summer so-
journing, a fact of which no little advantage is taken in the season of
travel. The steamship lines running from Portland to eastern ports
along the coast of Maine and the maratime provinces, afford the tourist
opportunities to extend his trip "away down East," as far as time and
inclination will permit. One resort of special interest deserves men-
tion while this subject is under consideration, on account of its remark-
able attractiveness, and its increasing popularity.

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND,

One hundred and ten miles northeast from Portland, is reached by
the Portland, Bangor and Machias Steamboat Line, whose boats
make connection with the ti-ains from Boston and the White Mount-
ains. They are staunch and seaworthy, and finely equipped ; and the
trip along the shore, past the thrifty villages, and among the pictur-
esque scenery, is full of delights.

The island of Mount Desert lies quite near the mainland, with

118

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

which communication is had by means of a bridge which crosses at Tren-
ton. ?5 In shape, the island is quite irregulai-, and is about eighteen
miles long by twelve wide. It is nearly divided in two by Somes
Sound, and its shores on all sides are indented by picturesque bays and

inlets. The greater part of its surface is covered with mountain
peaks, some thirteen in number, the highest, Mt. Green, I'ising fully two
thousand feet above the sea. High up among these peaks are several
beautiful lakes, which, with the streams that tlow from them, abound in
trout.

OLD ORCHARD BEACH. 119

The tirst lamling point, approacliiuLT from Portland, is .Southwest
Harbor. Here are several excellent hotels, and the scenery in the
vicinity, and accessible by pleasant carriage drives, is beautiful and
picturesque. Green Mountain is reached from this point to good ad-
vantage by the westerly slope, a carriage road leading to the summit,
where a hotel is located.

Bar Harbor, tifteen miles beyond Southwest Harbor, is even more
picturesque and romantic in its location than the latter. The scenery
along the coast is bold and impi-es.sive, stupendous cliffs rising abruptly
to the height of several hundred feet. Bar Harbor is plentifully sup-
j^lied with hotels, and their facilities are often utilized by the throngs
of artists and pleasure-seekers who make summer pilgrimages in seax'ch
of the beaiitiful, the art galleries and studios of the country testifying
to the success of the former in transferiing to canvas the gems of
scenery which have formed the basis of so many studies and afforded
so much delight.

In addition to the many " down-east " trips that may be made from
Portland, its nearaess to some of the line beaches of the Atlantic coast
is another of its attractions as an objective point for the tourist. Two
gi'eat railway lines connect Portland with Boston, and one or both of
them reach all the principal intervening seaside resorts.

One of the most noted of these is

OLD ORCHARD BEACH.

This celebrated seaside camp-ground. — for as a place for temper-
ance and religious camp-meetings it is best known, — is reached by the
Boston ifc Maine Railroad, extensively advertised by its managers as
the " shore route " between Boston and Portland. And it may not be
amiss to say, in this connection, that it is really one of the finest
equipped and best managed railroads in the country. Its general su-
perintendent, Mr. J. T. Furber, is one of the successful railroad man-
agers of ISTew England, a tireless worker, looking after every detail of
the road and its operation, with a degree of energy and "push" that
marks the successful business man wherever you meet him in
Yankeedom.

Old Orchard not only has a vast expanse of Ijeautiful l)each, but
possesses the additional charm of woodland parks and groves, hun-
dreds of acres in extent, stretching away from the shore, enclosing cool
retreats and shady paths, where the forest has been left almost in its
primeval state. This happy combination of " woods and seashore" in
one locality, affording a pleasing variety and gratifying the tastes of
all, is one secret of the great popularity of this resort. The splendid
hotel, so conspicuous in the background of our illustration, is kept in a
style to please the most fastidious, it being the leading hotel of this
vicinity. The less pretentious house in the foreground is a great fa-
vorite with many visitors, not only for its home-like air, but for the
beautiful views to be had from its verandahs and the charming walks

EASTERN SEASIDE RESORTS. 121

and drives in the vicinity. Its patrons speak of it iii terms of the
highest commendation.

Wells Beach and Kennebunkport are also reached by the Boston
& Maine Baih-oad, and are among the long list of popular resorts on
the eastern coast. The latter has an elegant hotel, the " Ocean Bhitf,"
which commands a beautiful view of ocean and landscape combined.

At Dover, on the main line to Boston, connection is made with
the Winnipesaukee division to Alton Bay, a celebrated summer and
camp-ground resort, at the head of the bay, which is an arm of the
beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, extending in a southerly direction.
The steamer Mount Washington makes frequent trips fiom this point
to Wolfboro and Center Harbor, from either of which places connec-
tion is made for the Weirs, on the Boston, Concord & Montreal Rail-
road, by steamer "Lady of the Lake."

The Eastern Bailroad, the other through line between Portland
and Boston, reaches several of the beaches already mentioned, and is
the direct route to Hampton and Bye Beaches, Boar's Head, and
and Bevere Beach, the latter sustaining the same relation to Boston
as does Coney ]sland to New York.

The Isles of Shoals, nine miles ofi Portsmouth harbor, are also
reached by the Eastern Bailroad to Portsmoutli, thence by steamer to
Appledore and Star Islands, where two palace hotels, the Appledore,
on the island of the same name, and the Oceanic on Star Island, are
kept in regal style by Laighton Biothers & Co. The group comprises
nine islands, the largest of which is Appledore. It is also the best
known, having been for many years the favorite summer home of many
of the prominent literal y people of New England. It is the residence
of Mrs. Celia (Laighton) Thaxter, whose pleasing poems have gratified
so many readers ; and her childhood was spent in this lovely spot, the
veiy air of which is full of poetic inspiration.

White Island is the location of a light-house which the readers of
the Atlantic Monthly will remember as the scene of many of the pleas-
ing incidents in Mrs. Thaxter's "Child Life at the Isles of Shoals."

IN RETURNING FROM THE SEA,

The excursionist may traverse again the route through the mountains,
— and some portions of it are well worthy of a second visit, or by a
different route may reach the St. Lawrence Biver, and tind new ob-
jects and scenes to claim his attention. Should the latter be his choice,
he may take the train of the Concord k Portsmouth Bailroad, at Ports-
mouth, and go via Manchester, Concord, White Biver Junction and
St. Albans to Ogdensburg or Montreal, thence homeward by the St.
Lawrence Biver, or the rail route, as preferred.

Many, however, will wish to see Boston or New York ; and a
pleasant trip, comprising a visit to these two cities, may be made by
boat or rail from Portland to Boston, thence by Long Island Sound to
New York. The Sound Steamer Lines are four in number, all of them

122 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

having an initial stage by rail to some point on the Sound where con-
nection is made with the boats.

The Fall River Line comprises a trip by rail from Boston to
Fall River, forty-nine miles, there transferring to one of the floating
palaces, the "Bristol," the "Providence," or the new and elegant "Pil-
grim," the latter being conceded to be the finest boat on the Sound. J.
R. Kendrick, Esq., is the general manager of this line, with head-
quarters at Boston, and Geo. L. Connor is the general passenger agent,
located in New York.

The Stonington Line has for its inception the rail route to Ston-
ington, Connecticut, via Providence, where connection is made with
the elegant steamers, "Massachusetts" and "Rhode Island." This
route has more of rail and less of water than the preceding, and avoids
the "outside" passage around Point Judith, a consideration that has
its weight with the timid and sensitive.

The Providence Line is under the same management as that of
the foregoing, and comprises a rail trip to Providence, and boat from
there to New York, the steamers " Stonington " and " N'arragansett "
being employed on this line.

The Norwich Line has for its beginning a rail trip to New Lon-
don, thence by steamer to New York.

The start from Boston is in the early evening, the arrival at the
various boat landings being in ample season for " bed-time," and the
trip through the Sound is a night ride, arriving in New York in sea-
son to connect with morning trains if desired. The passengers who
arise in moderately good season will enjoy the latter jiortion of the
ride, as the boat enters the famous passage known as "Hell Gate,"
passes down the East River in view of the islands on which are located
the various reformatory, penal, and charitable institutions of New York
City, continuing between the cities of New York and Brooklyn, under
the famous suspension bridge, and around the Batteiy and Castle
Garden into the North River. The shijiping in the harbor, the
sprightly tugs steaming here and there, the fei-ry boats plying between
Long Island and New York, and the ceaseless activity and bustle of all
things animate, all combine to give to the scene an air of life and vigor
so characteristic of all that pertains to the great metropolis of Amei'ica.

The sights and scenes of the city itself are so numerous and varied
that the pen falters at the thought of even attempting to mention them.
If the reader has a desire to " do " the city in a systematic and thorough
manner, he should secure the company of some one familiar with its
customs and its places of intei'est, or consult the pages of some city
guide book.

FROM NEW YORK TO THE WEST.

The retumi to the West from New York City may be made by sev-
ei-al different routes, at the option of the tourist. The New York
Central and Hudson River Railroad affords a pleasant ride up the

NEW YORK AND 150ST0N TO THE WEST. 123

Hudson River, among its be;intiful scenery to Albany, thence across
tlie State to Suspension Britlge or Butialo, The new Wkst Shore
line, by a nearly parallel route, traverses the other side of the Hudson,
and will soon be completed for througli ti'avel. The trip up the Hud-
son by boat is also a favorite in the summer season, as affording the
linest views of the points of intei-est that have given to this river the
title of the '• Rhine of America."

For picturesque scenery, no route can be regarded as equal to the
New York, Lake Erie and Western, familiarly known as the •' Erie
Line." Crossing the ferry to Jersey C'ity, the })assenger by this line
finds the trains of this road awaiting at the station, with through cars
attached for Buffalo, Rochester, and the principal Western points.
Leaving Jersey City by the morning train, the tourist will ffnd that the
day's ride among the picturesque mountain, liver, and lake scenery all
along the line will be one of great interest and enjoyment. The cour-
tesy and urbanity of the trainmen and conductors are especially notice-
able, and the eating houses, at which ample time is given for meals, are
among the best railroad restaurants it is the privilege of the traveler
to visit.

Connection is made at Buffalo with the Canada Southern division
of the Micliigan Central, fi'oui which point the return may be made
via Detroit, to the starting ])oint of the journey.

BOSTON TO THE WEST.

The return trip from Boston, omitting the visit to New York, may
be made very direct, should the tourist so elect. The short line from
Boston, and on many accounts a very pleasant one, is via the cele-
brated HoosAC Tunnel, comprising the Fitchburg Railroad to North
Adams, and the Troy & Boston Railroad to Troy, thence via the New
York Central to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. This route presents
the advantages of through sleeping coaches from Boston to Chicago,
without change, a most desira,ble feature for families or for ladies trav-
eling alone.

The line takes its name from the wonderful tunnel througli Hoosac
Mountain, which opens a roadway for the locomotive directly across
the State of Massacliusetts. This immense engineering enterprise was
begim in 18G2, on the supposition that the internal structure of the
mountain would be found of a character to admit of easy excavation.
The undertaking proved, however, that its projectors had been misled
by the geologists, and solid rock was the substance to be removed for
the greater part of nearly ffve miles. At an immense cost, the excava-
tion was carried on, and in 1875 was open for the passage of trains,
and later was perfected by arches of masonry where strengthening was
necessary.

The equipment of the "Tunnel Line" is complete and in all respects
first class. The starting point in Boston is from the depot of the
Fitchburg Railroad, of which John Adams, Esq., is the genial and

124 CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

popular superintendent. The Western office of the line is in Chicago,
at 135 Randolph Street, in charge of C. E. Lambert, Esq., the general
Western passenger agent.

The return from Boston may also be made by way of Springtield
and AUiany, by the Boston i: Albany Railroad, thence by the New
York Central to Butialo or Suspension Bridge.

And now, having taken the reader, in imagination, from his home
in the West to the Atlantic seaboard, through some of the most de-
lightful scenery on the American Continent, and indicated a vaiiety of
routes by which he may retui'n, with a few closing words the duty of
the writer will be done. Possibly no one traveler or party will trav-
erse all the routes described in this work. In some cases we have in-
dicated that choice may be made of several methods of reaching a given
point, and the taste or preference of the tourist, or the convenience of
a party traveling in company, will often decide the route. We have
endeavored to give fair and impartial description of the attractions of-
fered by the various lines of travel, — often too painfully conscious of
the inadequacy of words to do justice to the subject considered, — and
leave the reader to choose for himself a route from among the variety
set forth.

Before closing, we will add that a large variety of excursion tickets
will be found on sale at the principal ticket offices of the Michigan
Central Railroad, from which a selection can be made in accordance
with your taste or preferences. If the perusal of this woi'k has assisted
in deciding your route, you will probably be able to secure a ticket
through to the sea to accommodate your wishes. By a very convenient
arrangement, your choice of a portion of the route may be left until ar-
riving at the St. Lawrence River, when the purser of the steamer will
exchange your ticket, giving opportunity to select from a variety of ex-
cursions, with added side trips to various points of interest.

And now, with a consciousness of its many imperfections, we bring
this work to a close, and take a regretful leave of the reader, with the
ho))e that the pages of the book may prove serviceable in making en-
joyable the journey of many a tourist

From Chicado fo fhe Sea.

-*CONTENTS.=^

Adirondacks 73

Alexandria Bay 4it

American Fall" Xiaijara ^0, 24

Approaeh to Northt'onway, P. & O. R. 11. 113

Asceiu of Mount Washington, 83

Bar Harbor. Mt. Desert, 118

HethleluMn. X. H 81

Riddle's Stairs, Niagara, 31

Biiniini: Spring, Niagara 42

Canada Southern Railway, 17

Caualian Carryall, 50

Canadian P\ill 33

Cape Diamond, Qnebec, 64

Capes Eternity and Trinity, 71

Cave of the Winds, Niagara 31

Cliateau^Mv Chasm, O. & L. C. R. R., 74

Citv of Buffalo 17

City of Portland, Maine, 116

Climl)ino: Mount Jefferson 90

Conway ('enter, N. II 114

Crawford House, 106

Crossing the Ferry, Detroit, 16

Detndt.'the City of the Strait, 15

Devil's Hole, Niagara, 43

Dining Car Svstem 9

Distant view'of Mt. Washington 91

'• Down " vs. '■ Up,"— Rapids and Canal, . . 54

Eagle Cliff 98

Eastward Ho : 5

Electric Hlumination, Niagara 29

Fabyan Hotise. White ^loiuitains, 83

Fall River Line, Boston and New York, . 122

Falls of Montmorenci, 67

Falls of Niagara, 18

Fast New York Express, 8

Father Hennepin's Sketch of Niagara, ... 36

Flume and Bouliler, Pranconia Notch 101

First View of Niagara Falls 23

Franconia Mountains 100

Franconia Notch 97

French Canadian Home, 67

Gates of Quebec, two views 66

Glen Ellis Fall 112

Glen House Stage Line. 95

Glen House. White Mountains 113

Goat Island. Niagara 29

Goat Island Bridge 30

Grand Island. Niagara 35

" Gulf of Mexico," 86

Ha-HaBav 71

Hermit's Pool 108

Hoosac Tunnel Line, 123

Horseshoe Palls and Rapids, 22

Inclined Plane Railway, Niagara 28

Indian Curiosity Seller, 72

Isles of Shoals, 121

Kiarsarge House 114

Kiarsarge Mountain, 115

Lachine Rapids, 55

Lake of the Thousand Islands, 45

Lake Winnipesaiikee, 103, 105

Lizzie Bourne Monument, 87

Luna Island, Niagara, 31

Lundy's Lane Battle Field, 43

Luxury of Camp Life, 47

Medical and Surgical Sanitarium, 11

Michigan Central Railroad, 7

Michigan State Normal School, 15

Michigan State University, 14

Montreal and Quebec, 57

Montreal from .VIount Royal Park . .... 59

Montreal from the River.". 58

Mount Desert Island [ 117

Mount Garlield, 94

Mount Lafayette '.97, lOO

Mount Moosilauke, 103

Mount WashinL'ton Carriage Road, '. . 95

Mount Washington Railway 85

Mount Wa^hinglon Summit House, 87

Mount Wilhtrd ]0G

Mounts .Adams and Madison, 89

Na\y Island, Niagara .3.5

New Su piMision Bridge, 26

New York to the West, 122

Niagara Falls [ 18

Niagara Palls from the Ferrv, 27

Niagara Palls. Ontario, '. 24

Ogdensburg and Prescott 51

Ogdensburg to Portland, 73

Ogilensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, 73

Old Man of the .Mountain, 97 99

Old Orchard Beach 119

Pemigewasset House. B. C. & M. R. K.,.. 104

Presidential Range, White Mountains,... 81

Prolile House. Franconia Notch 96

Prospect Park, 27

Quebec, 61- 63

Rafts in the St. Lawrence Rapids, 55

Rates of Toll, etc. , Niagara 44

Retrocession of the Falls, Niagara, 37

Returning from the Seashore 121

Ride Around .Mount Royal 59

Round Island House 48

Round Island Park 47

Saguenay River, 69

Scenes on the P. & O. Railroad, 110

Sebago Lake 115

Silver Cascade, 1O8

Sinclair House, Bethlehem, 82

Steamer Rothesay, American Line, 46

St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain Railroad, 78

St. Lawrence River, 45

Summer Travel (j

Sunrise on Mount W^ashington 91

Suspeitsion Bridge, 39

Table Rock, Niagara, 25

Tadousac 70

Terrapin Bridge and Rock, 33

Terrapin Tower, 34

Thousand Island House, 49

Thousand Island Park 48

Three Sister Islands, Niagara 34

Tip-Top House in Winter 93

"Tricks that are Vain," 22

Tuckerman's Ravine, Alount Washington, 95

Lender the Cataract, 32

Valley of the Saco River, Ill

Watching for Sunrise, 92

Weirs Station and Steamboat Landing 102

Westminster Park, 49

Whirlpool Rapids. Niagara 41

White Mountain Notch 106

White Mountains, 79

White Mountains, from Jefferson, 90

Willey House 109

Wolfe's New Monument 65

Wolfe's <.)ld Monument, 64

" Only All Rail Route to the Thousand Islands. -•

^=^= THIE ==

liil Ififw Ifillpiii

POPULARLY KNOWN AS THE

UeMWftt Line to the Isle

This Line runs via Utica, Trenton Falls, the Sunset Slope of the Adirondack
Mountains, Black River, Sugar River, and Indian River to the Thousand Islands
of the River St. Lawi"ence. It is the only scenic route.

New Fast Trains, Make Very Few Stops,

and carry elegant Through Cars from Utica to the River St. Lawrence.

THOUSAND ISLAND FAST LINE

Leaves Chicago 9.00 a. m., arrives at Utica 1 1.25 a. m. (dinner), leaves Utica 12. 10
p. m., arrives Trenton Falls 12.45 P- ™-' Clayton, 4.05 p. m. Immediate con-
nection with Steamboat for Round Island, Thousand Island Park, and Westmin-
ster Park, arrives Alexandria Bay 5.10 p. m.

H'agiiei' Cars from Cliicago to Utioa autl ITtiea to Clayton.

EVENING FAST LINE

Leaves Chicago 3.30 p. m., arrives Utica 2.00 p. m. (dinner), leaves Utica 4.50
p. m., arrives at Trenton Falls 5.25 p. m., Lowville 7.00 p. m. (supper), Clayton
9.05 p m., Alexandria Bay 10.10 p. m.

Wagner Cars tVoni Cliioago to ITtifa ; ]\e\r Springfielrt Coaolies
li'oin Ctica to Clayton. A <tiii<-k. Cool, and JPleasant
Jonrney. Cnion Depot at Utiea. No Transfers.
A First Class Steel Kail liine.

The Illustrated Book of Routes and Rates for Summer Tours, 100 pages with
Illustrations, Maps, and Cost of 300 different tours via Thousand Islands and
P.apids, Montreal, etc., etc. Send two postage stamps for a copy, before deciding
on your summer trip. Through Tickets via Utica are on sale at all Ticket offices
of the Michigan Central Railroad and Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway.
If you are unable to get Through Tickets via this route, buy to Utica only.

J. F. MAYNARD, THEO. BUTTERFIELD,

fteiieral Superinti'iult'iit. Gfii'I Pas. Agent, I'TICA, >'. Y.

Tie Best [(iiiippefl Railroad in tlie lortd.

Without exaggeratins. and keeping closo within the narrow limits of fact, it may be as-
serted without fear of truthful contradiction, that the

CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY

Is not only the best and most perfectly equipped railroad in the world, but it is also the most
important as to the territory it traverses, the numerous business centers and pleasure resorts
that it reaches, and the facilities it offers for pleasant, speedy, safe and comfortable transit
for all classes of passengers It caters alike to the needs, tastes and abilities of the mill-
ionaire merchant prince; to the farmer, with his plain and simple wants; and to the eco-
nomical and necessitous; and gives to each the full value of all he pays for. Its luxuriantly
liiiishtMl and furnished palace sleeping cars, and its more than luxurious drawing-room
coaches are marvels of beauty and comfort. Its coaches are new and of the most perfect
models that have been adopted by any company, and they are always kept sweet, clean and
pure. Its dining cars are superb, and the meals and service provided in them are equal to
that given by any tirst-class hotel in the country.

WHERE IS IT?

Starting from Chicago and having various
main lines running west, nonh-west, and
north, it covers about all that is desirable iu
Northern Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, the upper
Michigan peninsula, Minnesota and Central
and South-eastern Dakota and North-eastern
Nebraska.

It is eminently the railroad of the north-
west; and from iis commanding location, it
controls the traffic of all of the territory it
traverses.

WHAT IS IT?

Over .5.000 miles of the best built and
best maintained railroad there is in the
country. It is equal iu every respect to
any road in the world, and is believed to
be better than any of its competitors. Its
lines are built of heavy steel rail; its bridges
are of steel, iron, and stone, and all its ap-
pointments are as good as money can buy.

COLORADO & CALIFORNIA.

This Company's line between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha) is sliortcr tlian any
other between these points, and was the pioneer m forming connection with the Trans-Con-
tinental Union and Central Pacific Railroads. Nearly all^experienced overland travelers
seek this line, because it is known to be the best, shortest, most coniTortable, and in every
way the most desirable. To seek other more circuitous and inferior routes is accepted as an
evidence of inexperience or want of information.

If you are destined to or from Colorado. Nebraka, Utah, Wyoming, Montana. Idaho,
Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory, China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands. New
Zealand or Australia, you should, in making the trip between Chicago and Council Bluffs
(Omaha), iu either direction, see that your tickets read over this great road.

ST. PAUL, MINNEAPOLIS & WINNIPEG.

This road, ''St. Paul Line,"' is the short and desirable route between Chicago and Madison,
St. Paul and Minneapolis, and the best to travel over if you are destined to or from Chicago
and any point north or north-west of St. Paul. Winona and Mankato, Minn.; Frankfort,
Huron, Pierre, Aberdeen, Columbia and Watertown, Dakota; Milwaukee, Fond dn Lac,Osh-
kosh, Watertown and Sheboygan, Wis.; Freeport, Elgin, Dixon and P'nlton, 111.; Clinton,
Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Webster City, Algona, Tama and Council Bluffs, Iowa, are a few
of its hundreds of prominent local stations. It reaches most of the pleasant summer resorts
of Wisconsin and Minnesota, and is the road to take for the health and scenic resorts of the
Rocky Mountains, the National Yellowstone Park, and nearly all of the notable western and
north-west resorts that are accessible by rail.

It connects in Union Depots with the Union Paciiic Railway at Council Bluffs, and at St.
Paul with all roaiis diverging from that point.

Yon can procure tickets over this route from nearly every coupon ticket agent in
the country. When iniying your tickets, read them carefully, and be sure that at least one
coupon reads over the Chicago & Xorth-Western Ry. Ask your nearest coupon ticket
agent for one of its large maps; they are FREE, and will show you all of this Company's
lines as they are.

FOR COMFORT, SAFETY AND SCENERY

CHOOSE, IN TRAVELING EAST OR WEST, THE

fflTif^

' "'■■"^ '^'"Jife J^b»*##*>k*»*.

"5J

Which forms, in connection with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, the

Old and Favorite New England iloute

TO AND FROM ALL POINTS WEST.

The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the Central Vermont Railroad is second to
no Road in this country. It is the only line lunning

Betvreen Chicago and Boston without Change,
AND SOLID TRAINS OF ELEGANT COACHES AND BAGGAGE CARS

Without Change between Montreal and Boston.

Steel Rails, Iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brake, Miller Platform,
Coupler and Buffer on every train, assure safety while passing swiftly through
Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description.

The Train Service of this Road is so arranged that sure connections are made
with the Grand Trunk Railway, and with Railroads in New England to and from
all the principal cities, villages and towns in

Pullman Cars Montreal to Springfield, and Wagner Cars
Montreal to New York, Without Change.

First-Class Restaurants, with reasonable charges, and ample time given for meals.

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH CANADA IN BOND,

Avoiding all trouble of customs.

During the Suiiiiiier, Excuriioii Tickets are Sold over llii§
Line at Oreatly Red need Rates.

Ask for rates via this Line before buying, and note that your tickets read via

CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD.

For sale at all Stations and responsible Ticket Offices East and West.

COMPANY'S OFFICES. — 260 Washington Street, Boston; 271 Broadway,
New York : 136 James Street, Montreal.

J.W. HO BART, General Supt. S. W. CUJVIMINCS, Gen, Pass'r Agent.

General Offices — St. Albans, Yt.

SUMMER TOURS

L^I

-R

STliA.UiiK I'AssiaG PiCTi KK!) KUClv-^.

The attention of Summer Tourists, contemplatiug a trip for health and recreation,
is invited to the attractions of a Tour via the Great Lakes on one of the following
PjVlace Steamers : —

India, China, Japan, Winslow, Njack, Arctic,
Empire State, Badger State, and St. Louis,

The Lake Sujierior TranMt 6c.,

Leaving Detroit, Cleveland, Erie, and Buffalo, for Duluth, at the head of Lake
Superior, and between the ports above named. To those who have not the leisure
to travel the entire chain of lakes, we offer a Series of Short Excursions, on
Lakes Erie, Huron, or Superior. Steamers leave Detroit, from foot of Woodward
Avenue, as follows: For Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette, Hancock, Houghton, Ash-
land, Bayfield, and Duluth, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays,
at 11 o'clock, p. M. For Cleveland, Erie, and BuflEalo Sundays, Mon'days, Wednes-
days, and Saturdays, at 5 o'clock, p.m. A Guide Book, descriptive of the routes,
entitled "Summer Tours via the Great Lakes," will be sent free on receipt of
stamp, by addressing J. T. WHITING, General Agent L. S. T. Co., Detroit, Mich.,
or the undersigned.

T. P. CARPENTEE, (ien. Pass. Agl. Lake Superior Transit Co.,

BrFFALo, N. Y.

SMITH'S DIAGRAM

FillilillifMf lllil

SHOWING

-McThe Relation of Any Motion to Every Other IVIotion,^!^

AND

Jin.>n'erin(j at a (jlanvc vrcj- oOO Quctlio)!,) in ParViamenlarij Practice;

tof^ether with a Kcij coxtaixiHij I'oxci^e lli)di> [4, iiifvctionl) for

Cc7idiictinrj the BulAnc.>h vj Deliberatire AuemhlieA.

1^" It is to the Study of Parliamentary Practice wliat a Map is to the Study of Geograpliy.

From the ]^ew York lii«le|»i'iB4l<'iit. :>Isir<la O, 18S2.
"Smith's Diagram of Parliamentary Rules" is an admirably ingenious simpli-
fication of the confused matter of parliamentary practice. By a very simple ar-
rangement, motions of all kinds, in the order of their precedence, are placed in the
center, printed in large type, and their relation to every possible rule is indicated
by connecting lines. The diagram is accompanied by a key, which, in explaining
itself, clears up the subject as well, and gives concise hints and directions for the
conduct of deliberative assemblies. Mr. Uriah Smith has put more of the essence
of parliamentary practice into small space and lucid order than we find in any
other manual.

From ,1. IVarroii lit'ilor. Speaker oT the IIoii><e of
lS<'|>r<'seiilatives. WaKliiiig-(4»ii.

I have carefully examined the^voIume,"and take pleasure in saying that I re-
gard the work as a very valuable one, and arranged so as to indicate to either the
casual reader or even an expert the special as well as general rules controlling a
particular motion. Your work seems to have been thoroughly done, and 1 cheer-
fully commend it as a vade mecum for parliamentarians.

From lion. I>sivi«1 IB. .Jerome, lv\-<>overiior ol* j^lielti^aii.

Can 1)6 utilizetl by a presiding ofiicer at a glance, and without the emliarrassing
delay necessary to consult ordinary authorities.

From Beiig. 1^. Ilewift. Speaker ol" tlie IIoii<iie ol" R«'pre*ieii<a-
iiveN, llarri>«i»iir$;'. Fa.

After a careful examination of your "Diagram of Parliamentary Rules," I lind
it a most exhaustive and complete compendium of parliamentary law, afibrding, at
a glance, solutions of almost every question in parliamentary practice. It cannot
fail to meet with public favor.

From Frof. I. T>. Stone, tornierly Superintendent of the
City Seliools <»S" Itattle l"i'e«'k.

For practical use it is worth all the massive treatises in the world. I-iy a happy
device you have brought the whole perplexing code of parliamentary laws into such
brief space and simple shape that any jioint of order can be determined at a glance,
and wif/iont lurning a page. Of the flood of new "aids to instruction," this is
one of the very few which really meets and satisfies "a long felt want."

Price, ty mail, postpaid: cloth binding, 50 cents; in morocco, $1.00.

Address REVIEW & HERALD PUB. CO., Battle Creek, Miclr

NICHOLS, SHEPARD& CO

BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN.

[Works at iiitefsoctinii of MicluLiaii Cuiiti-al and Grand Trunk llailwavs. J

Threshing Machinery,

TRACTION AND PORTABLE ENGINES,

THE 3TJ^l>riDJ^lElID O'F EXIGEXjIjIElsrOIB.

Marvelous I>ural>ilit.v : ^Voii<l<'rl*iil Power:
Ele$v<iiit AVorkiiiansip;

Reaufiriil Finisli: Superior Material.

Send for circulars and price lists. (Sent free.)

TRANSATLANTIC STEAMSHIP AGENCY.

This Aijuiicy reprej^ent-; the leading and ini)<t patrouized Steamship Lines
plying between

AMERICA AND EUROPE.

First and

Second <'al)in

Round-Trip Tickets

At Greatly

Reduced Rates. -

TICKETS

''Old always as low as
U Headqnarters, and
1)( rths promptly se-
(. nred (by telegraph,
when necessary.)

Prepaid Tickets foi tho^-u w ishing to ^c nd foi fiiond^ in England, '^cotland, Ireland, Ger-
many, or any other Euiopem coiinti v at i-toni^hin,l\ low i ite'~

Circulars, or any infoimation about ticktts funuslitd piomptlj on application to

Box 2277. A. SWEDBERG, Battle Creek, Mich.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL

SANITARIUM

Battle Creek, Mich.

The Largest and Most Complete Health
Institutioo in the West.

} Unri\aled facilities for the treatment of chronic

rh-y and surgical cases. Baths, Electricity, Massage,

and all the most appro\ ed forms of treatment.

Send for circular. Address SANITARIUM,

Battle Creek, Mich.

GE N U I N

Roman, Naples, Padua, and Veronese,

FOR ALL

Carefully ganged, and the most Perfect in Color, Finish. Durability, and Purity of
Tone. Sold Under Guaranty ! Imported and for sale by this house only.

Musical hufi'ffmenU and Merefiandh^e,

— ^lanufacturcrs of the —
"PETERS" HAND-MADE CLARINET REEDS,

The most Durable, producing the Finest Tone ;

Also, the "PETERS" PATENT VIOLIN PAD,

For Supporting the ^'iolin.
TESTII«^01TI.^LS I^ItOJVn I€:XJ3SrX5E,E3DS OS" •VIOIjIITISXS

VALUABLE CATALOGUE, showing how and where strings are made, modes of
testing, gauging, selecting, stringing instruments, etc., sent Free I Address

W. I. PETERS & CO.,

Box 2126, Battle Creek, Mich.

'■J Bl «B"Ji
BATTLE CREEK, MICH.,

^^ AUTOMATIC" SCHOOL CESKiS.

<
O

K
O
u.

o
>

>
r
O

c
m

A ^f^¥ Principle, Uiiivei'sallj' A|>i»i'ove«lI

Simple. Strong'. Convenient. Iteantiliil!

Tlie Most Popular Seliool Seat in Use!

T/ris S.-at is a DECIDED AD PRANCE upon all the Old Styles. Do not
use the Old when the New is better!
The attention of school officers is invited to the above Seats. The "AUTO-
MATIC " is now in use in most of the prominent schools in the West, and very
generally throughout the United States. Its superior merits have been fully dem-
onstrated No other seat can compare with it in the essential features of Hoaltll-

fuliiess, Comfort, and Durability.

Send for our fully illustrated descriptive catalogue, which will give you a cor-
rect idea of the Seat, and will show you what leading educators think of it. This
catalogue also contains information respecting all kinds of School Supplies,
together with elaborate

Planfi ^^ S}ieeificnfiont> of Scficollitdldinfjt^j

Which are of great value. It will be sent you gratis, on application.

HEATERS. — We are now able to offer you the best School Room Heater
in the market. Better and more economical than either stoves or furnaces. See
catalogue.

Teachers', Principals' and Office Desks in Large Variety.

If you want anything for the school room — ^Maps, Globes, Slate Blackboards,
Slating, Ci'ayons, Erasers, Bells, Reading Charts, Physiological Charts, Window
Shades, Dictionaries, etc., — write to

UNION SCHOOL FURNITURE CO..

OHICAaO OFFICE : ISO Wabash Avsnue.

Battle Creek, Michigan.

-.=^^3B O XJ Xj T ' S 0^:.=^

CUTS PANELS OF ANY DESIGN OR STYLE

Of Mould, ill the Solid Wood, with Neatness and Dispateii.
IT IS A FIRST-CLASS

llSl, ^ euif 4G1 lOILBll.

Also, does beautiful Dovetailing on Thick or Thin Stuffs.

MSMVNA^^ ^V^^SA/V<MSH

MARSH PATENT

With Circular and Scroll Saw, Moulding and Wletal Turning Attacliments.

" There is PLEASURE in it." " There is HEALTH in it."

" th:ei^.:ki is iMionsrE^r insr it i"

Send for Circulars and Prices to

BATTLE GREEK MACHINERY CO., Battle Greek, Mich.,

SOXiE ]yi:.A.iq"TJF.A.CT"U"E.EItS.

Gr' ^

^J(fc^^^aggg:: ^ j^ jg^

SjwrUmen imd TotiriM^ Jiffenfion Mil

OSOOOID'S

Patented Feb. 26. 187S.

The above I'epresents our 12-foot Boat, extended, ready for use.

iL;ht, with Paddlj, for Tr'iut Fishing', Exploring, Duck Hunting, etc., 25 povfids. Weight, with
Bottom-B jard. Oars, etc., everjt.iing cjmplete, 50 pounds.

View of the Boat in its com-
pact form, showing Boat folded,
Bottom-Board, Camp-stools, Gim-
wale, Stretcher, and Packing-
< 'hest. All but Oars and Paddle
i.;i> in Chest.

SIZE OF CHESTS.

For 15-foot Boat, 40 inches long,
•20 inches wide, 20 inches deep.

For 12-foot Boat, .38 inches long,
17 inches wide, 17 inches deep.

FIVE SIZES ARE MANUFACTURED.

No. 1, 15 feet long, 36 inches wide, weight, 75 lbs. Price, $50.
u 2, 12 " " 33 <' " " 50 " " 40.

3, 12

4, 91
6, 8"

40
30
30

40.
35.
35.

Each size makes up foui- different weights or style.s. You ha\e the same as four boats com-
bined IN ONE.

Boat is put in sack made of ducking, only little larger than ordinar,v grain bag', and then al
packed in chest for shipping. The sack is a sufficient protection to the boat in carrjing it in wagon
or carriage. The chest is used only for transporting it on cars, or on a load of camping goods.

Boats shipped C. O. D. on receipt of $10, subject to examination before paying the balance to
the express agent. If not satisfactory, tlie boat can be returned by freight, and we will return
balance of money, after paying freight charges both wajs.

Parties ordering, that know the boat, may send draft for ftdl amount, and we will ship by
freight or express ; or send good reference and we will forward at once, it-j?' If jou want a Port-
:il>lt' Boat, we can please you. Send for Illustrated Tt'stiiiioiiial Circular.

Manufactured by N. A. OSGOOD, Battle Creek, Mich.

|FR0f M8T. LUiENCnO T||Ei|

I (Og'denstm.rg to I»ortlaii<l) |

- ■VIA. -

Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain,

St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain,
i Portland & Ogdensburg R. R's,

— REACHING THE —

'^- ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS, -^14

Chateaucay Chasm,

white mountains, portland, old orchard,

mount desert, and all sea-side

resorts of the east.

All Trains Ftiruishecl iclth the Latest Improve -

ments for the Safety and Comfort of PasseiKjers.

Special Attention given to Tourist Travel.

Tickets oil Sale at all Principal Ticlet Offices tliroiiElioiit the Country.

^g- Be sure your tickets read via this POPULAR and OLD ESTABLISHED
ROUTE. For further information apply to

F. L. POMEROY, C. H. STEVENS, €. H. FOYE,

Gen. Pas. Ast. 0.& L.C.R.K., Gen. Pas. Agt. 9t.J.& L.C.E.R., Gen. Pas. Agt.P.& O.li.K.,

Ogdeiisburff. X. Y. St. Johiisbury, Vt. Portland. Me.

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ITS LINES EX;TETifI>i

Chicago to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, via Detroit,
Mackinaw City to Toledo, via Detroit,
Bay City and Saginaw to Jackson,
Grand Rapids to Detroit, via Jackson,
Jackson to Niles, Airune.

1 IVj ICHIGAN

AND OTHER SMALLER LINES.

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ro >1/V^ F/?0/>f MICHIGAN AND -e^-

]N"e^vv^ Y^ork, Boston, BiO-fFalo,
Chicago, Detroit, and Toledo.

NEWlmmiNG CARS

Between Chicago, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, on Principal Trains.

EXCURSION TICKETS DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS

Via Niagara Falls, St. Lawrence Eiver, Thousand Islands, &c..
To all thie X»IjEA.STJPtE RESORT'S of tlxe E^VST".

H. B. LEDYARD,

General Maiia,

P. I. WHITNEY,

Aast Gen I Pas. S Tick.

0. W. RUGGLES,

Gen I Pas. <4 Tick. Agl

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