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LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

Theological  Seminary, 

PRINCETON,  N.J. 

Case, 

Shelf, 

Book, 


SCC  #10,961  v . 1 8 : 1 


The  Chinese  repository 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/chineserepositor1851unse 


THE 


CHINESE  REPOSITORY. 


Vol.  XVIII. — Mav,  1849. — No.  5. 


Art.  I.  Journal  of  a trip  overland  from  Hainan  to  Canton  in  1819, 
by  J.  R.,  the  supercargo  of  the  English  ship  Friendship,  Captain 
Ross.  Pp.  116.  London,  1822. 

This  journal  was  printed  in  a pamphlet  form,  for  circulation  among 
the  writer’s  friends.  It  is  the  production  of  an  intelligent  observer,  and 
a man  of  some  enterprise  (for  he  was  on  his  way  to  Cochinchina  with 
a letter  from  Lord  William  Bentinck,  and  could  speak  the  language 
of  that  country),  and  we  shall  therefore  extract  freely  from  its  pages 
such  notices  as  are  worth  perusal.  Although  thirty  years  have  elapsed 
since  the  journey  was  made,  it  contains  almost  the  only  information 
obtained  by  Europeans  which  we  have  respecting  the  towns  visited, 
and  in  most  respects  it  is  probably  as  authentic  now  as  when  it  was 
written. 

The  ship  Friendship  left  the  Typa,  Nov.  11th,  1819,  bound  for  Tu- 
ron  in  Cochinchina,  and  on  the  next  day  sprang  a leak,  which  com- 
pelled her  captain  to  run  her  ashore  on  Hainin,  which  he  effected 
with  the  loss  of  only  three  sipahis,  though  that  part  of  the  coast  was 
lined  by  a dangerous  reef  extending  a league  from  the  shore.  The 
natives  crowded  around  the  shipwrecked  strangers  in  great  numbers, 
exhibiting  the  most  forbearing  and  kind  conduct,  no  one  attempting- 
to  carry  away  any  article  unless  given  to  him ; — but  they  have  greatly 
deteriorated  in  their  manners  since  then,  for  the  cargo  of  the  Sunda, 
lost  in  1840  north  of  this  place,  was  carried  off  against  all  the  efforts 
of  her  captain  and  crew  to  protect  it.  The  crew  of  the  Friendship, 
fifty-live  in  number,  having  given  up  the  wreck  to  the  natives,  left  the 
VOL.  XVII!  No.  v,  29 


226 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  Mav, 

beach  with  whatever  arms  and  clothes  they  could  carry,  on  the  15th, 
and  directed  their  course  N.  W.  to  Mwdn  chau  ^ *ji|,j  , where  they 
hoped  to  be  taken  care  of  by  the  authorities,  and  forwarded  to  Canton. 
Soon  after  starting  across  the  sandy  country,  they  came  to  a lake  call- 
ed Mwanchau  shioui,  six  or  seven  miles  in  width,  and  illimitable  to 
their  sight  in  length,  across  which  they  were  ferried  by  boatmen,  who 
had  been  sent  to  take  them.  On  the  passage  across, 

“ In  order  to  drive  care  away,  we  directed  the  drum  and  fife  to  strike  up,  which 
was  continued  all  the  way  over,  producing  a very  singular  and  curious  effect 
from  the  reverberation  of  the  sound,  which  gave  a distinct  echo  from  various 
points  four  or  five  different  times,  and  produced  a variety  of  the  most  pleasing 
modulations  as  it  died  away,  harmonizing  at  times  with  inconceivable  effect : 
the  people  on  shore  imagined,  as  we  approached,  that  we  brought  with  us  a 
number  of  different  musical  instruments.” 

The  party  reached  Mw  in  chau  at  evening,  and  were  interrogated 
respecting  the  loss  of  the  vessel  by  the  authorities,  whose  suspicions  as 
to  her  character  were,  we  are  told,  removed  by  a port-clearance  nearly 
twenty  years  old  of  another  vessel ; they  took  the  names  of  the  crew', 
and  then  gave  them  all  a lodging-place  in  a temple.  Here  they  remained 
sixteen  days,  during  w'hich  time  they  were  allowed  to  ramble  about  and 
beyond  the  town  as  they  pleased.  The  journal  says, 

“ We  found  ourselves  under  no  restraint  whatever,  being  freely  permitted 
to  go  whithersoever  we  wished,  and  return  whenever  we  pleased,  without 
the  smallest  interruption  or  hindrance  : indeed  we  met  everywhere  with  the 
greatest  civility,  and  even  politeness  ; for  this  people  appeared  to  be  in  a high 
state  of  civilization,  and  in  their  manners  were  singularly  harmless  and  in- 
offensive ; their  extreme  curiosity  was,  however,  sometimes  disagreeable 
The  Hainariese,  with  respect  to  their  dress,  somewhat  resemble  the  Chinese  , 
they  are  in  general,  handsome,  but  not  so  fair;  in  this  respect,  however,  the 
women  are  an  exception.” 

They  contrived  to  communicate  w'ith  the  people  by  means  of  a 
Chinese  from  Canton,  and  a Portuguese,  who  spoke  the  Canton 
dialect,  though  the  patois  of  the  town  wras  found  to  differ  considerably 
from  that  dialect.  They  were  all  called  before  the  district  magistrate 
again  next  day,  to  compare  their  names,  when  they  delivered  up  all 
their  arms,  except  the  fowling-pieces.  After  this,  Mr.  R.  says, — 

“ In  the  course  of  the  day  I rambled  over  the  town,  to  see  whatever  might  be 
worthy  of  notice,  and  afterwards  walked  round  the  ramparts  to  take  a prospect 
of  the  surrounding  country,  which  proved  to  he  a beautiful  and  extensive 
plain,  in  the  highest  6tate  of  cultivation,  diversified  with  towns,  villages,  and 
hamlets;  and  bounded  to  the  north-westward  by  a range  of  high  mountains, 
one  of  which  forms  a very  remarkable  double  peak,  considerably  higher  than 
the  others  ; the  p.-ospect  was  altogether  of  that  picturesque  character  which 
could  not  fail  to  please,  particularly  as  our  minds  were  relieved  from  any  pesent 
apprehension  for  our  personal  safety. 

“ The  walls  of  the  city  are  about  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  and  as  many 
m thickness,  built  of  brick,  but  without  any  fosse  . the  parapet  is  about  four 
feet  high,  having  numerous  embrasures,  very  small  and  close  together,  with  a 


1849. 


227 


Trip  from  H&inan  to  Canton 

loop-hole  between  each,  for  the  use  of  small  arms  and  arrow*.  They  appear 
to  be  in  very  bad  repair,  and  have  every  mark  of  great  antiquity,  being  over- 
grown with  brambles,  and  in  many  places  even  trees  of  considerable  magni- 
tude. There  were  no  great  guns  to  be  seen,  except  one  or  two  three-pounders 
in  each  gateway,  and  these  unfit  for  service,  being  mounted  upon  two  large 
stones  or  logs  of  wood,  which  shows  how  little  these  [/  ople  are  acquainted  with 
fortification,  or  military  atiairs,  such  as  form  the  great  feature  of  European 
warfare. 

“ The  gates  are  four  in  number,  handsomely  arched,  and  placed  correspond- 
ing with  the  cardinal  points  of  the  compass  The  streets  are  flagged,  but 
narrow ; and  the  houses,  though  built  with  brick  and  stone,  have  rather  a 
mean  appearance,  few  of  them  exceeding  one  story.  This  town,  however,  in 
point  of  magnitude  at  least,  must  once  have  been  far  superior  to  what  it  now 
is,  for  at  present,  fully  one-third  of  it  lies  in  ruins.  It  contains  many  temples, 
several  of  which  are  handsome  buildings,  with  tolerable  good  carving  and 
painting:  there  are  also  many  honorary  gateways,  which  have  been  erected  to 
the  memory  of  such  as  have  distinguished  themselves  by  pious  or  philanthropic 
acts.” 

The  magistrate  gave  each  of  the  party  two  cash  a day  for  his  sup- 
port and  a ration  of  rice ; this  provi  ng  insufficient,  they  made  excur- 
sions eight  or  nine  miles  into  the  country  to  replenish  their  larder, 
but  did  not  find  so  much  game  as  they  expected,  bringing  home  only 
a few  paddy-birds,  crows,  and  doves,  on  which  they  dined  heartily. 
On  a subsequent  ramble,  they  met  with  a variety  of  birds  of  beautiful 
plumage,  snipes,  curlews,  plovers,  and  pigeons,  of  which  they  killed 
many.  A better  mode  of  increasing  their  supplies  was  adopted  with 
success,  viz.  to  charge  a few  cash  for  showing  themselves,  and  the 
proceeds  enabled  them  to  live  much  better  than  they  had  done.  One 
means  of  drawing  visitors  was  accidentally  found  out : 

“ Th'.s  day  some  of  the  curious  visitors  happened  to  observe  me  writing,  and 
were  so  slruck  with  this  extraordinary  phenomenon,  that  they  instantly  went 
out,  and  communicated  the  news  to  their  countrymen,  so  that  in  a little  time 
it  spread  like  wildfire  through  the  whole  town,  and  brought  such  fresh 
swarms  around  us,  that  1 was  soon  obliged  to  give  over  and  hide  my  journal.” 

On  one  occasion,  they  saw  a company  of  soldiers  drilled,  whose 
manipulations  are  thus  noticed. 

“ Saw  a number  of  soldiers  exercise  in  the  presence  of  two  military 
officers,  seated  in  arm  chairs,  while  an  inferior  officer  called  out  five  men  by 
name  : these  forming  into  a halfmoon,  fired  their  matchlocks  in  succession,  the 
first  that  fired  wheeling  to  the  right,  loaded  his  piece  and  fired  again  in  turn, 
thus  keeping  up  a constant  discharge,  until  each  man  had  fired  six  or  eight  times' 
They  then  wheeled  off  to  the  right,  when  five  others  were  called,  and  perform- 
ed as  before.  They  made  no  use  of  wads,  but  threw  the  powder  loose  into  the 
pieces,  being  provided  with  a bamboo  measure  for  that  purpose.  They  were 
afterwards  called  out  by  twos,  and  exercised  at  the  sword,  spear,  and  lance 
at  which  they  appeared  to  be  very  dexterous,  defending  themselves  with 
circular  shields  of  rattan  about  three  feet  in  diameter,  which  they  used  with 
much  agility.  Their  matchlocks  seemed  to  be  rather  clumsy,  with  a very- 
small  box  ; and  the  soldiers,  in  the  act  of  firing,  bent  forward,  so  as  to  rest  the 
elbow  on  the  left  knee.” 

Dec.  1st,  the  magistrate  called  the  foreigners  to  his  presence,  and 
gave  each  of  them  five  cash,  appointed  some  guides  to  conduct  them, 


22$ 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  May, 

and  sent  them  on  their  journey  northward,  They  traveled  36  li  along 
the  borders  of  the  lake,  through  a low  country,  well  peopled,  and  pro- 
ducing chiefly  rice  and  sweet  potatoes, 

“The  country,  every 'mile  We  advanced,  afforded  the  most  agreeable  pros- 
pects, being  covered  with  towns,  villages  and  hamlets,  ten  of  which  we  pass- 
ed through  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  crossed  three  rivers,  but  found  the 
roads  in  general  very  indifferent,  while  not  a foot  of  uncultivated  ground  was  to 
be  seen.  At  a quarter-past  four  p.  m.,  having  traveled  twenty-four  miles,  we 
arrived  at  the  city  of  Loh-hwui,  and  waited  on  the  governor,  who  ordered  us 
to  be  conducted  to  a temple  for  the  night.  This  city  is  large  and  populous,  and 
may  contain  about  83  or  90,000  inhabitants.  The  walls  are  in  pretty  good  re- 
pair, with  four  gates  standing  N.,  S.,  E.,  and  W.,  handsomely  arched  with  cut 
stone.  The  ramparts  are  about  30  feet  thick,  but  we  saw  no  guns  mounted. 
The  streets  are  paved  but  narrow,  and  the  houses  are  built  of  brick  ; none 
of  them  exceed  tw'o  stories  ; there  are,  however,  many  handsome  shops  con- 
taining various  sorts  of  merchandize.” 

From  Loh-hwui  hien  ^ to  Hwuitung  hien  ^ JjjJ  Jj ^ 

was  a journey  of  about  18  miles  in  a northerly  direction,  during  which 
the  travelers  crossed  several  rapid  shallow  streams,  intersecting  a well 
cultivated  country,  whose  inhabitants  gazed  with  astonishment  at  " 
them  and  their  double-barreled  guns,  having  never  seen  either  before. 
The  houses  in  Hwuitung  are  built  of  red  brick,  and  the  streets  narrow 
and  well  paved.  From  this  town  north-westerly  to  Tisee,  or  Tai- 
ping  sz’  ^jJ,  the  land  constantly  rising,  the  road  led  through 

a highly  cultivated  and  well  peopled  region,  for  they  passed  through 
five  towns  in  a walk  of  four  hours.  They  met  several  sedans  and 
wheel-barrows,  the  latter  used  by  the  lower  classes  to  travel  on,  as  the 
former  are  by  their  superiors.  This  vehicle  is  driven  by  one  man  about 
2J  miles  an  hour ; it  has  a platform  about  four  feet  long  and  two  wide, 
on  which  the  traveler  sits  with  his  baggage. 

From  T.iiping  sz’,  the  country  was  diversified  with  groves  of  cocoa 
and  areca-nut  trees,  and  regularly  divided  into  fields  and  gardens, 
which  gave  it  all  the  appearance  of  European  cultivation.  Among 
other  grains,  fields  of  red  or  mountain  rice  were  common,  and  temples 
and  honorary  portals  were  frequently  passed,  as  well  as  one  extensive 
burying-ground,  covered  with  conical  graves  in  regular  rows,  the  size 
and  height  of  which  it  was  said  denoted  the  rank  of  the  deceased. 
The  tombstone  is  placed  on  the  east  side  at  a small  distance  from  the 
grave.  After  a journey  of  33  miles,  the  party  reached  Thung-ung  or 
Ting-ngin  hien  having  crossed  several  bridges  of  stone 

and  wood,  and  passed  through  three  towns  and  twelve  villages.  Of 
Ting-ngan,  he  remarks, 

“ The  walls  of  Ting-ngan  are  in  good  repair,  not  very  high  ; the  town  seems 
much  larger  than  any  of  those  hitherto  on  our  route  : the  streets  are  pretty  re- 
gular, and  uniformly,  as  the  others,  paved , this  circumstance  may  perhaps 


1849. 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  229 

arise  from  the  general  flatness  of  the  surface,  ami  is  the  more  remarkable,  as 
no  wheeled  carriage  has  come  under  our  observation.  This  town  may  contain 
about  10  or  12,000  houses,  which  are  built  nearly  after  the  Chinese  manner 
the  markets  are  abundantly  supplied  with  all  sorts  of  provisions.  Indeed, 
ever  since  our  departure  from  Mw.ln  chau,  we  found  many  taverns,  or  eating 
houses,  in  every  town  and  village,  and  the  like  even  all  along  the  public  road, 
these  people  realizing  in  their  practice  of  alimentary  economy,  an  essential 
rule  of  health  in  these  parts,  viz.  to  eat  often  and  well,  and  of  the  best.  There 
are  also  horses,  palanquins,  and  wheel. barrows,  always  to  be  hired  for  a mere 
trifle.” 

Towards  evening  the  district  magistrate  sent  for  the  party,  and 
calling  over  their  names  gave  each  man  thirty  cash.  While  in  his 
office,  his  wives  came  in  and  gazed  with  the  rest ; they  “ were  fine  wo- 
men, very  fair  and  richly  dressed,  and  all  in  the  prime  of  life.”  From 
this  place  the  foreigners  marched  through  the  town  with  drum  and 
fife,  which  attracted  such  crowds  of  people  of  both  sexes,  that  they 
could  hardly  force  their  way  along  the  streets.  They  were  conducted 
to  the  banks  of  the  Kien  kiang  ^7*.  and  embarked  in  boats  for 
Kiungsh'm  hien,  which  they  reached  in  the  morning.  This  stream, 
called  Li-mi  kifmg  in  Du  Halde,  is  the  largest  on  the  island  ; its 
banks  are  sandy,  and  the  country  along  its  course  highly  cultivated. 
Kiungchau  is  the  capital  of  Hainan,  and  the  residence  of  the  prefect, 
who  is  invested  with  the  prerogative  of  executing  criminals  for  capital 
offenses  without  sending  them  to  Canton,  as  is  done  from  all  the 
other  departments.  The  party  was  detained  in  a large  temple,  sur- 
rounded by  a wall  15  feet  high,  inclosing  an  area  150  feet  square  ; 
the  lodging-room  given  them  was  a sort  of  cockloft,  which  they  en- 
tered through  a window  by  mounting  a ladder.  The  priests  shared 
with  them  their  perquisites  of  the  fruits  and  viands  offered  to  the  idols 
by  worshipers,  so  that  they  were  comparatively  well  off.  The  town 
and  its  environs  are  thus  described. 

“ This  is  a larger  town  than  any  we  had  as  yet  seen  : it  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  forty  feet  high,  built  of  brick  and  stone,  in  good  repair  ; the  ramparts  are 
thirty  feet  thick,  and  the  parapet  four  feet  high.  The  embrasures  seem  so  very 
small  and  close,  that  I imagine  they  were  never  intended  for  the  use  of 
cannon:  we  saw,  however,  several  guns,  both  of  brass  and  iron,  mounted  on 
carriages,  which  as  well  as  the  guns  were  of  a rude  and  clumsy  make.  The 
gates  are  very  lofty  and  handsomely  arched,  having  watch-towers,  two  stories 
high,  over  each.  The  streets  are  conveniently  broad,  and  flagged  in  most  pla- 
ces. Provisions  are  cheap  and  abundant.  The  principal  houses  have  gardens 
and  pleasure-grounds  attached  to  them,  containing  various  kinds  of  trees, 
which  at  a distance  impart  a pleasing  feature  to  the  prospect. 

“ Strolled  round  the  ramparts  of  this  city,  which  we  found  as  usual  afforded 
a very  pleasant  and  agreeable  promenade,  commanding  not  only  an  extensive 
and  complete  view  of  the  town  itself,  but  also  of  the  surrounding  country,  which, 
in  regard  to  cultivation,  appeared  almost  a perfect  garden,  swarming  with 
inhabitants.  With  the  assistance  of  a good  glass,  we  could  count  eleven  towns 
and  villages,  together  with  the  city  of  Hoi-hau  to  the  northward,  not  far  dis- 
tant ; and  in  the  same  quarter  we  had,  for  the  first  time,  a prospect  of  old  Nep- 


230 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


May 


tune's  watery  plains  We  observed  here  also,  as  in  the  other  large  towns,  a 
considerable  piece  of  ground  within  the  wall,  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of 
vegetables,  which  in  this  place  are  in  great  abundance  and  perfection. 

“ This  morning  we  received  ten  cash  each,  and  at  noon  were  sent  for  by  the 
governor  of  Kiungshdn,  who  asked  us  many  questions  relative  to  the  loss  of  the 
Friendship,  and  the  number  of  men  that  were  drowned  in  landing.  We  gave 
him  a true  and  correct  statement  of  the  business,  notwithstanding  the  govern- 
or of  Mwan-chau's  injunctions  to  us  to  assert  that  the  ship  was  lost  at  sea,  and 
that  we  had  saved  ourselves  in  the  boats.  That  doubtless  was  done  from  in- 
terested motives,  for  the  morning  we  went  to  take  leave  of  him,  we  saw  the 
ship  s knees,  timbers,  beams  and  planks, even  down  to  the  garboard  streak,  piled 
up  in  one  corner  of  his  garden.  By  making  it  appear  that  she  had  foundered  far 
from  land,  he  would,  of  course,  be  called  to  no  account  whatever  by  his  supe- 
riors, the  responsibility  being,  by  our  declaration  to  that  effect,  completely 
done  away  .” 

While  undergoing  this  examination,  the  ladies  belonging  to  the 
magistrate’s  family  came  in  to  see  the  foreigners,  and  were  allowed 
to  remain  during  the  interview.  The  establishments  of  officers  in 
China  are  generally  spacious,  and  their  apartments  are  arranged  in 
much  the  same  way,  but  the  description  of  this  one  is  so  minutely 
given  that  some  of  the  party  were  probably  allowed  to  visit  its  various 
divisions. 

“ The  houses  of  the  magistrates  we  have  yet  seen,  are  built  nearly  in  the 
same  manner,  some  being,  however,  larger  than  others.  They  consist  of  nu- 
merous buildings  inclosed  by  a wall  between  12  and  15  feet  high,  forming 
generally  a square  of  considerable  extent.  The  portal  or  entrance  is  lofty,  and 
arched  with  brick  or  stone,  guarded  by  strong  double  gates  or  wickets.  In  each 
wing  is  an  extensive  range  of  houses  for  the  officers,  guards,  musicians,  and 
in  short,  servants  of  every  description.  In  the  centre  stands  the  governor's 
residence,  which  is  composed  of  several  houses  close  together,  erected  one 
immediately  behind  the  other,  all  communicating  by  meuns  of  large  fold ing- 
doors.  The  innermost  building  is  appropriated  to  the  women  ; and  in  the  rear 
are  gardens,  bathing-places,  and  fish-ponds.  In  the  front  of  all  is  what  they 
call  the  hall  of  audience,  being  a sort  of  pavilion,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  is 
placed  a large  arm-chair  and  a table  covered  with  red  silk  or  satin,  and  stand- 
ing on  a platform  raised  about  four  feet.  The  edifice  is  supported  by  stone 
pillars  12  or  14  feet  high,  each  consisting  of  one  entire  solid  piece.  Some  dis- 
tance from  this  stands  a dead  wall  8 or  10  feet  high,  and  12  or  14  feet  long,  on 
which  is  painted  a variety  of  birds  and  other  animals,  particularly  a flying  dra- 
gon. At  each  end  of  this  wall  is  a lion  couchant,  carved  out  of  white  granite, 
and  of  enormous  size.  The  hall  of  audience  adjoins  and  communicates  with 
the  principal  building,  by  means  of  very  large  double  doors.  Whenever  the 
governor  is  ready  to  make  his  appearance,  a small  bell,  by  way  of  signal  rings, 
when  all  the  doors  are  instantly  thrown  open.  The  music  then  strikes  up, 
and  his  excellency  is  seen  advancing  in  style  and  stateliness,  as  majestic  as 
can  possibly  be  figured  to  the  imagination  : the  spectacle  is  imposing,  while  he 
moves  to  the  abovementioned  chair  of  slate.” 

One  day,  Mr.  R.  saw  a review  of  the  military  and  their  exer- 
cises and  arms  in  the  parade-ground,  the  whole  of  which  appeared 
so  ludicrous  and  childish  that  he  could  liken  it  to  nothing  so  well  as 
John  Gilpin’s  renowned  ride. 

" Went  to  see  the  troops  of  this  place  perform  their  military  exercises,  whir’— 
took  place  in  a large  open  space  near  the  walls  of  the  citv  They  consisted 


1819. 


Trip  Jrorn  Hainan  to  Canton. 


2 31 


of  cavalry,  archers,  and  matchlock  men  the  matchlock  meti  had  a regular 
uniform,  being  a red  jacket  over  a blue  one  of  greater  length,  and  nankeen  pan- 
taloons : the  lower  part  of  the  leg  was  bound  round  with  a sort  of  garter  , 
these  made  a much  better  appearance  than  the  others  ; their  muskets  were 
about  three  feet  in  the  barrel,  with  a very  small  bore,  the  whole  very  clumsy 
and  heavy. 

“ The  review  began  with  the  archers,  who  provided  with  about  a dozen  arrows 
each,  were  called  over  by  name  to  a certain  number,  not  exceeding  seven 
These  shot  five  or  six  times  each  at  a paper  target  set  up  a distance  of  about 
fifty  paces,  having  a bird  painted  in  the  centre.  The  person  who  struck  any 
part  of  the  target,  immediately  went  down  on  the  right  knee,  received  the  ap- 
probation of  the  commanding  officer,  after  which  he  wheeled  round  to  the 
left,  and  was  seen  no  more.  The  bows  were  about  five  feet  and  a half  long, 
and  made,  I believe,  of  horn  and  leather;  they  were  handsome,  and  appeared 
strong,  for  when  mustering  they  formed  nearly  a complete  circle  the  opposite 
way.  The  arrows  are  made  of  very  light  wood,  feathered,  armed  with  a flat 
piece  of  iron,  and  are  in  general  from  four  to  four  feet  and  a half  long.  It 
might  be  here  mentioned  that  subsequently  we  saw  a party  of  archers  shoot- 
ing with  singing  arrows.  These  appear  about  five  feet  long,  having  a hollow, 
perforated  globe  attached  to  the  head.  They  are  shot  upwards  from  a com- 
mon bow,  in  a vertical  direction,  and  in  their  ascent  and  descent  produce  a 
very  curious  and  singular  sound,  somewhat  of  a musical  nature,  at  first  gra- 
dually decreasing,  and  then  increasing  in  strength  as  the  arrow  falls  to  the 
ground.  We  had  frequently  heard  similar  sounds  before,  but  were  hitherto 
unable  to  account  for  their  production  : we  could  not,  however,  discover  what 
actually  was  the  principle  on  which  it  was  done,  unless  that  during  the  arrow's 
flight,  the  wind  rushing  through  the  ball  at  the  perforation  by  its  reverberation 
in  the  hollow  within,  caused  the  sounds  we  heard,  and  which  became  weaker  on 
the  ear  in  proportion  to  its  distance. 

“The  cavalry  were  next  exercised,  a preparative  signal  having  been  first 
made  by  waving  a blue  silk  flag,  and  seconded  by  blowing  an  instrument  very 
like  a i'rench-horn  : at  each  time  of  so  doing,  one  of  the  horsemen  sat  out,  and 
galloping  at  full  speed  along  a sort  of  furrow  or  dry  ditch  shot  an  arrow  at  a 
target  placed  a little  to  his  left,  with  a small  bell  attached  to  it,  which  was 
frequently  hit,  but  at  a short  distance  ; of  his  success  the  commanding  officer 
had  instant  notice  by  the  above  simple  appendage,  the  bell  invariably  announc- 
ing the  shock  received  from  the  arrow.  After  passing  the  target,  he  continued 
to  gallop  until  out  of  sight,  and  made  his  appearance  no  more. 

“The  matchlock  men  were  then  called  out  by  name  to  the  number  of  six  or 
eight,  and  fired  one  afler  the  other  at  a wooden  target,  placed  at  a distance 
from  them  of  about  eighty  paces,  having  battens  nailed  upon  the  opposite  side, 
on  which  was  laid  a quantity  of  lime,  in  order  to  determine  who  hit,  and 
who  missed  it  : the  latter,  however,  was  seldom  the  case.  Each  soldier  was 
provided  with  a bamboo  cartonch-box,  ready  filled,  containing  at  least  double 
the  quantity  of  powder  that  would  be  sufficient  were  it  a proper  composition,  or 
of  good  quality.  They  held  the  balls  in  their  mouths,  perhaps  for  the  sake  of 
expedition  in  loading  the  pieces  : no  wads  were  used,  the  ball  being  thrown 
in  loose  over  the  powder.  The  balls  did  not  exceed  that  of  the  smallest  sized 
pocket-pistol;  they  seemed,  however,  to  go  with  great  force  and  precision  In 
taking  aim  they  bent  their  bodies  so  as  to  rest  the  elbow  on  the  left  knee. 
They  make  powder  at  this  place.  The  forces  belonging  to  Kiungshan  hien,  as 
they  informed  us,  consist  of  2,500  infantry,  and  500  cavalry,  a proportion  of 
which  is  exercised  daily  in  the  manner  above  described.” 

Their  detention  at  Kiungchau  fu  was  prolonged  by  the  fear  enter- 
tained of  an  attack  from  a powerful  fleet  of  pirates,  numbering  be- 
tween 259  and  300  sail,  great  and  small,  whose  depredations  had  com- 
pletely interrupted  the  ordinary  trade  across  the  straits  of  Luichau, 
and  compelled  the  peaceable  traders  to  wait  on  either  side  until  a 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


232 


May, 


large  convoy  of  junks  had  assembled,  and  a fair  wind  arose  which  would 
waft  the  whole  across  in  one  day.  These  miscreants  also  landed  large 
parties  from  their  vessels  upon  the  unprotected  parts  of  the  coast,  and 
carried  off  all  the  plunder  they  could  seize,  and  made  prisoners  of  the 
most  beautiful  women.  The  interval  until  their  departure  was  mostly 
spent  in  rambling  about  the  town,  and  noting  such  things  as  were 
« deemed  most  curious. 

“ Their  police  seems  excellent  throughout  every  department.  The  moment 
the  evening  gun  is  fired,  which  is  regularly  done  at  eight  o’clock,  all  the  city 
gates,  and  those  of  each  street,  are  immediately  shut,  and  patrols  keep  watch 
the  whole  night,  during  which  time  there  is  no  communication  whatever  be- 
tween one  street  and  another  until  day-light,  when  the  morning  gun  fires:  at 
this  time  the  communication  recommences,  and  the  creaking  noise  of  so  many 
gates,  opened  at  the  same  instant,  produces  an  effect  somewhat  similar  to  dis- 
tant thunder,  and  to  a person  not  knowing  the  real  cause,  it  would  prove  per- 
haps a little  alarming — at  least  it  had  at  first  that  effect  on  us.” 

“ It  is  really  pleasing,  and  not  a little  surprising,  to  see  such  order  and  regu- 
larity in  a place  so  populous  ; no  such  thing  as  confusion  or  disputes  of  any 
kind  whatsoever  ; not  even  an  angry  word  is  to  be  heard  among  them,  every- 
thing being  carried  on  with  such  harmonious  cordiality. 

“The  price  of  every  article,  no  matter  of  what  value,  is  so  well  regulated, 
that  purchases  are  frequently  made  without  a word  passing  between  the  buyer 
and  seller  ; this  is  most  properly  to  be  understood  with  regard  to  provisions,  or 
where  articles  of  the  same  sort  or  quality  are  exposed  for  sale.  The  purchaser 
throws  down  the  requisite  and  well  understood  sum  of  money  agreeable  to  the 
quality  he  requires,  the  vender  counts  it  over,  and  gives  him  the  goods,  almost 
without  a word.  This  city,  including  the  suburbs,  may  contain  about  a total 
of  200,000  inhabitants  ; and  as  far  as  we  have  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  country,  having  traversed  the  whole  of  its  diameter,  are  confident  in  as- 
serting our  conviction,  that  scarcely  can  any  people  be  supposed  to  enjoy  a 
more  happy  or  contented  life.  We  made  the  general  remark,  that  people  of 
the  poorest  sort  here  are  better  clothed  than  the  same  class  of  persons  even  in 
England.  Hitherto  we  have  seen  nothing  in  the  shape  of  a beggar.” 

The  river  runs  easterly,  and  the  port  of  Kiungchau  called  Hai- 
kau-so  PFJr  or  Hoi-hau,  lies  at  its  mouth  about  three  miles 
distant,  the  two  places  being  connected  by  an  excellent  paved  road. 
On  the  northern  bank  of  the  river  is  a twelve  sided  pagoda,  fourteen 
feet  in  diameter,  and  130  feet  high;  the  walls  are  six  feet  thick,  and 
pierced  by  a staircase  for  ascending  to  the  top.  From  this  elevation, 
the  party  had  a wide  prospect,  and  observed  that  Hoi-hau  lies  on  a 
long  narrow  peninsula  between  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  and  a 
deep  bay,  the  seaward  border  of  which  was  defined  by  some  small 
islands,  and  defended  by  a few  forts  built  on  prominent  points.  Con- 
nected with  the  pagoda  was  a temple,  remarkable  for  a gilt  idol  of  a 
goddess,  with  fifty-four  hands,  each  holding  some  emblem  of  her 
supposed  attributes.  A few  days  after  visiting  the  pagoda,  Mr.  R. 
was  sent  for  to  Hoi-hau,  whose  magistrate  had  heard  of  his  telescope, 
and  wished  to  reconnoitre  the  piratical  fleet  with  it,  but  it  was  too 
laic  in  the  evening  to  see  them  when  he  arrived  there,  and  lie  was 


1849. 


241 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 

taken  such  pains  regarding  our  appearance  as  circumstances  vvoui  f permit,  we 
waited  on  our  host,  and  were'  received  by  him  in  a very  polite  manner.  Be- 
fore dinner  he  employed  the  time  in  asking  various  questions  about  Europe, 
and  particularly  in  respect  to  British  ships  of  war  ; such  as  their  size,  the  number 
of  men  and  guns  they  carried  ; if  it  was  true  they  had  copper  bottoms  ; and 
how  many  K they  could  go  in  an  hour  with  a fair  wind  ? When  he  was  told  that 
they  frequently  sail  at  the  rate  of  30  and  36  Chinese  miles  per  hour,  he  appear- 
ed much  amazed,  and  thought  it  scarcely  possible.  During  the  conversation, 
his  wives  came  out  with  great  eagerness  to  hear  the  subject  of  our  discourse  : 
indeed,  we  have  invariably  found,  that  in  China,  as  well  as  in  Haindn,  female 
curiosity  far  exceeds  that  passion  in  the  other  sex. 

“ At  three  o’clock,  we  sat  down  to  an  elegant  dinner,  consisting  of  beef,  pork, 
fowls,  and  vegetables.  During  the  repast,  our  host  and  his  women  were  much 
amused  at  the  awkward  manner  in  which  some  of  us  used  chop-sticks ; at  last, 
one  of  the  ladies,  feeling  for  their  embarrassment,  ordered  spoons  to  be  brought, 
which  answered  even  better  than  knives  and  forks,  as  the  meat  was  cut  up  into 
hashes  and  stews,  the  favorite  dishes  of  the  country.  At  four  p.  m.  we  took  leave 
of  his  excellency,  and  returned  to  our  temple,  having  enjoyed  at  least  one  hearty 
meal  since  our  shipwreck : at  the  joss-house  we  received  each  ten  cash,  with 
some  rice  and  fire-wood  as  an  extra  allowance.  Shortly  afterwards  they  sent  to 
inquire  if  we  or  any  of  the  crew  had  a sufficiency  of  the  latter  articles;  adding, 
that  if  otherwise  we  should  have  a further  supply. 

“ 23<Z. — At  nine  this  morning,  the  four  lascars  having  come  up,  we  waited  on 
the  governor ; and  having  received  twenty  cash  each,  together  with  a fresh 
passport  and  guides,  we  set  out  from  Shihching,  and  traveled  northeast  through 
a beautiful  and  richly  cultivated  valley,  which  lies  between  two  chains  of  hills, 
distant  from  each  other  about  two  miles  and  a half.  The  scenery  throughout 
this  delightful  region  was  interesting  from  its  varying  beauties,  every  new  posi- 
tion exhibiting  some  fresh  charms  of  cultivation  or  natural  embellishments,  that 
opened  in  pleasing  succession  upon  the  view.  In  the  latter  part  of  our  journey, 
the  country  became  rather  barren,  nor  was  the  soil  well  improved ; as  if  the  Chi- 
nese, knowing  the  amazing  resources  offertility  with  which  their  country  abounds, 
will  not  put  themselves  to  any  unnecessary  trouble.  In  the  course  of  the  day, 
we  passed  through  nine  villages  and  two  towns,  and  crossed  one  large  and  hand- 
some bridge.  The  roads  in  general  were  good,  and  the  country  more  populous 
than  we  had  hitherto  observed.” 

The  region  through  which  the  party  went  on  its  way  to  Canton  is 
intersected  with  many  small  streams,  which  afford  great  facilities  for 
the  agriculturist  in  irrigating  his  fields.  From  Shih-ching,  the  road 
to  the  post-town  or  military  station  of  Sin-ngan  sin  -jp  led 
through  a valley  parallel  with  the  Kiu-chau  river,  and  across  the 
borders  of  the  district  into  Ilwa-chau  , or  the  inferior  depart- 

ment of  Hwa,  a small  division  lying  along  the  banks  of  the  Lo  shwui 
ji  ?}c  or  riyer  Lo,  which  disembogues  near  the  district  town  of  Wu- 
chuen  ft  III  ft  south  of  HwA-chau.  This  town  is  situated  near  the 
south  of  the  department,  and  is  of  some  political  importance,  but 
does  not  possess  much  trade.  A stone  monument,  called  lih-shih 
_*£  7p,  is  placed  near  it  on  the  map,  but  of  its  size,  purpose,  or 
age,  we  have  no  account.  The  country  around  Hwfi-chau  is  hilly, 
and  why  the  guides  should  have  led  their  company  such  a circui- 
tous route  though  a hilly  country  to  Tienpeh,  we  can  not  imagine  ; 
the  most  expeditious  course  would  have  been  along  the  coast  through 
W uchuen. 


vol.  xvm.  no.  v. 


di 


May, 


*42  Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 

“ At  half  past  four  p m.  we  arrived  at  the  post  of  Sm-ng4n  Bin  where  we 
rested  for  the  night  Thi3  place,  though  un  walled,  is  of  considerable  size,  and 
deemed -of  some  importance  as  a town,  compared  with  others  which  have  for- 
tifications. Here  we  saw  a great  number  of  travelers  who  had  arrived  a little 
before  us,  with  carts  and  wheel-barrows  laden  with  goods  of  various  sorts  to 
lodge  in  a public  warehouse  appropriated  for  that  purpose,  and  guarded  by  sol- 
diers during  the  night  At  thiB  town  there  is  a constant  concourse  of  strangers, 
being  a sort  of  half- way  house  between  Shihchiug  and  Hwa-chau  Here  we 
remarked  a greater  number  of  taverns  than  usual,  one  of  which  attracted  our 
attention  : it  was  one  story  high,  and  at  least  three  hundred  feet  long  ; in  the 
middle  of  this  vast  apartment  ran  a range  of  tables  with  benches  on  each  side  , 
in  the  rear  arc  cooking-places,  and  hot  baths,  for  the  use  of  foot  travelers, 
who,  after  the  fatigue  of  a long  journey,  find  great  relief  by  bathing  the  feet. 
For  this  purpose  there  are  people  constantly  in  attendance  at  the  different  tav- 
erns, whose  sole  business  is  to  keep  warm  water  ready  for  use,  and  by  this  they 
gain  a livelihood.  After  washing  the  feet,  they  apply  a little  salt  to  the 
instep,  where  it  is  allowed  to  remain  a few  minutes,  which  has  a very  bene- 
ficial effect ; the  charge  for  all  this  trouble  is  from  one  to  three  cash.  At  these 
taverns,  the  traveler  calls  for  what  he  pleases,  but  the  waiters  never  give  any- 
thing whole  or  in  large  quantity.  If  beef  or  pork  be  called  for,  it  is  brought  in 
small  pieces,  on  each  of  which  is  fixed  a certain  price  that  rarelv  varies  : 
if  ducks,  fowls,  or  geese  be  required,  they  are  brought  in  the  same  manner, 
each  being  cut  into  six  pieces — wings,  legs,  breast,  and  back  ; the  price  of  these 
cuts  is  generally  from  six  to  ten  cash  each.  During  the  dinner,  a boy  keeps 
an  account  of  what  is  eaten,  and  brings  a bill  afterwards  for  the  same  ; this  is 
usually  very  moderate,  particularly  in  towns  that  are  not  situated  near  the  large 
rivers.  To-day  we  dined  with  a very  large  company  at  the  beforementioned 
hotel,  which  was  full  of  guests  from  top  to  bottom  ; it  was  somewhat  curious  to 
see  so  many  chop-sticks  in  motion  at  once.  The  Chinese  are  famous  for 
the  excellence  and  variety  of  their  soups,  which  are  both  highly  prized  and 
high  priced.  When  our  bill  was  brought,  one  of  the  people  who  sat  near,  observ- 
ing that  we  were  overcharged,  reprimanded  the  attendant,  and  taking  the 
money  from  us,  paid  him  his  due,  and  returned  us  the  remainder. 

“24th — At  seven  this  morning  we  left  Sin-ngan,  and  continued  our  journey 
through  a country  remarkably  hilly  and  rugged  : the  roads,  however,  were 
pretty  good,  and  the  cultivated  valleys  mostly  laid  out  into  plats  of  mountain 
rice,  which  does  not  require  a watery  soil  like  the  common  kind.  The  hills  in 
general  were  overgrown  with  fern  and  brushwood,  which  serve  as  retreats  for 
the  gold  and  silver  pheasants,  whose  rich  and  brilliant  plumage  appears  more 
remarkable  in  a wild  than  a domesticated  state.  We  met  numbers  of  barrows 
loaded  with  the  goods  that  were  imported  in  the  fleet  which  brought  us  from 
Haindn,  and  were,  as  they  informed  us,  going  to  Canton.  In  the  course  of 
the  day’s  journey  of  only  18  miles,  we  passed  through  five  villages  and  two 
large  towns,  and  reached  the  city  of  Hwd-chau  about  one,  when  we  were  con- 
ducted to  the  governor,  followed  as  usual  by  legions  of  Chinese,  who,  from 
their  numbers  and  the  heat  of  the  day,eauHcd  us  much  inconvenience,  though 
the  dense  crowd  behaved  in  the  most  polite  and  orderly  manner. 

“ At  two  p.  m.  we  were  conducted  to  a temple,  which  was  appointed  our  resi- 
dence for  the  night.  This  town  is  situated  on  the  declivity  of  a hill,  part  of 
which  is  included  within  its  walls,  which  are  about  four  and  a half,  or  five 
miles  in  circumference;  they  are  in  bad  condition,  which  is  the  case  with 
almost  all  the  other  cities  that  we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  on  the  con- 
tinent of  China.  The  streets  here  are  clean,  and  flagged  with  red  bricks,  eigh- 
teen inches  square,  of  a hardness  and  durability  superior  perhaps  to  what 
are  manufactured  in  any  other  country  ; they  are  also  covered  with  awnings 
of  various  colors,  which  have  a pretty  but  tawdry  effect.  There  are  here  many 
fish-ponds  and  large  temples;  provisions  are  both  abundant  and  cheap  as 
usual,  and  within  the  walls  there  is  more  cultivated  ground,  besides  numerous 
gardens,  than  wc  have  hitherto  observed  In  the  afternoon,  we  saw  several 
criminals  chained  in  bamboo  cages,  on  their  way  to  Canton,  there  to  receive 
thpir  condemnation  or  acquittal,  like  our  unfortunate  fellow-travelers,  the 
Cochinchincae.” 


1849 


243 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton 

From  the  city  of  HwS-chau,  the  party  was  conducted  by  an  easy 
stage  into  the  district  of  Mau-ming  hien  ^ j whose  chief  town 

is  also  the  residence  of  the  prefect  of  K&uchau  fu  0^  *)  ||  f£f,  and 
usually  called  by  that  name.  The  place  where  the  company  first 
rested  was  the  post-town  of  Nanshing  sin  3$  ]7L  whlch’ if  the 
account  here  given  of  its  size  is  correct,  must  be  partly  supported  by 
the  trade  from  Wuchuentothe  interior.  Proceeding  on,  the  party 
reached  Kfiuchau  fu,  which  lies  on  theP  fiu  ki^ng  the  name 

given  to  the  river  Lo  above  Hwfi-chau ; a branch  called  the  Sin  ho  jfpJ 
or  New  river,  comes  in  just  below  the  city,  to  which  the  tide  reaches. 
There  are  five  districts  and  one  inferior  department  comprised  within 
the  prefecture  of  Kfiuchau. 

“25tft. — At  nine  a.  m.,  having  received  40  cash  each,  we  set  out  from  Hw4 
chau,  and  at  noon  in  large  flat  bottomed  boats  crossed  the  river  Lo,  which  is 
navigable  a long  way  to  the  north-eastward.  We  continued  our  route  northeast- 
erly on  good  roads,  through  a picturesque  country,  in  the  finest  state  of  culti- 
vation, and  intersected  by  many  small  streams.  The  scene  was  enlivened  by 
numerous  country-houses  with  large  gardens  attached,  which  were  laid  out  with 
a rural  taste  peculiar  to  this  people.  Our  steps  frequently  lingered  amidst  tins 
delightful  scenery,  detained  by  the  concerts  of  the  warbling  tribes,  which,  from 
the  trembling  echo  in  the  valleys,  produced  a pleasing  effect:  the  air  around 
us  was  richly  perfumed  by  a thousand  grateful  odors,  exhaling  from  the  most 
elegant  variety  of  herbs  and  plants,  whose  beautiful  tints  rendered  the  face  of 
the  ground  superior  to  the  finest  carpet.  The  whole  frequently  brought  to  my 
recollection  many  scenes  in  my  native  country,  which  would  not  lose  by  a 
comparison  with  that  just  described. 

“ In  the  course  of  tliis  day  we  passed  through  two  towns  and  five  villages  ; 
we  also  saw  a field  of  wheat,  which  we  imagined  had  been  transplanted,  as 
the  stalks  were  at  nearly  equal  distances  from  each  other.  At  two  P.  M.  we 
arrived  at  the  town  of  Nan-shing  sin,  where  they  gave  us  the  use  of  a resting- 
house,  such  as  have  been  mentioned  before,  and  may  be  called  imperial  choul- 
tries. The  house  assigned  us  for  accommi-dation  was  very  spacious  and 
convenient;  the  rooms  were  furnished  with  cots  to  sleep  on,  but  there  were 
no  beds.  The  building  was  so  extensive  that  in  a few  minutes  after  entering 
it  we  were  lost,  and  I believe  that  if  we  had  chosen,  each  of  us  might  have 
occupied  a separate  apartment,  although  we  amounted  to  53  in  number. 

“ The  town  of  Nan-shing  contains  75,000  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  pretty 
broad,  and  are  in  general  flagged  ; the  shops,  being  large,  give  them  a hand- 
some appearance.  In  the  markets  we  observed  a greater  abundance  of  pork 
than  usual,  an  article  of  which  the  Chinese  are  particularly  fond. 

li'26th. — The  roads  in  general  were  good  to-day,  and  the  country  extremely 
well  cultivated,  being,  for  a distance  of  19  miles  N.  E by  E.  from  the  town 
last  mentioned,  a vast  level  plain,  producing  wheat,  rice,  tobacco,  sweet  pota- 
toes, and  turnips.  In  the  afternoon,  we  saw  a range  of  high  mountains,  whose 
peaked  summits  towered  far  above  the  clouds.  In  the  course  of  the  day, 
we  passed  through  two  large  towns  and  six  villages,  and  had  several  times 
a sight  of  the  river  Lo,  the  same  we  saw  at  Hwa-chau. 

“ At  half-past  four  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Kauchau  fu,  and  were  con- 
ducted to  an  imperial  choultry  for  the  night.  On  entering  tins  place  we  ob- 
served several  Chinese  characters  over  the  arched  gateway,  and  w'ere  informed 
that  they  were  to  show  the  distance  from  Epking  and  other  cities  in  the  em- 
pire, which  we  are  told  is  common  to  all  buildings  of  the  same  description. 
These  imperial  choultries,  have,  at  a distance,  the  appearance  of  little  walled 
towns,  and  with  their  numerous  buildings,  occupy  a considerable  extent  of 


244 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


May, 


ground.  They  are  on  the  same  plan  as  barracks,  and  are  furnished  with  every 
convenience,  such  as  baths,  gardens,  commodes,  cooking-rooms,  cooking  uten- 
sils, and  fuel. 

“ The  city  of  Kauchau  may  contain  about  80,000  inhabitants,  including 
the  suburbs.  There  are  many  shops  filled  with  manufactures.  The  houses 
are  regular;  the  streets  flagged  on  each  side,  and  paved  in  the  middle.  The 
town  walls  are  built  of  brick,  and  about  thirty  feet  high  ; the  embrasures  are  more 
open  than  any  we  have  yet  seen,  and  somewhat  more  convenient  for  the  use 
of  cannon,  but  their  construction  for  this  purpose  is  somewhat  doubtful,  as 
nothing  has  yet  presented  itself  to  give  an  idea  that  the  Chinese  ever  cannonade 
an  enemy  from  such  an  elevation.  Several  pieces  of  ordnance,  from  four  to 
eighteen  pounders,  were  seen  lying  in  the  gates,  which,  as  usual,  are  four  in 
number,  corresponding  with  the  cardinal  points.  Some  of  these  cannon  were 
mounted,  or  rather  placed  on  large  logs  of  wood,  others  on  stone,  and  some 
again  on  a pile  of  bricks  and  mortar,  somewhat  resembling  a gun-carriage,  but 
wanting  the  proper  means  of  confining  the  gun  when  fired,  or  pointing  it 
effectively.  Kauchau  is  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  a large  navigable  river  ; 
on  the  opposite  side  stands  a handsome  pagoda,  1200  feet  high,  ascended  by 
spiral  steps,  from  the  top  of  which  we  had  a gratifying  view  of  the  circumjacent 
Country  to  a very  wide  extent.” 

Whether  the  writer  of  this  itinerary  derived  his  knowledge  of  the 
courses  and  distances  the  party  traveled  from  his  guides,  or  from  his 
own  observation  and  calculation,  does  not  appear,  but  the  position  of  the 
two  resting-places  mentioned  after  leaving  Kauchau  is  southeasterly 
according  to  the  maps.  The  first  he  calls  Ti-see,  which  as  he  is  on 
the  road  to  Tienpeh,  is  probably  C'hih-shwui  sz’  or  the 

township  of  Chih-shwui,  or  Red  Water — a sz’  being  a subdivision  of 
a hien.  This  place  lies  in  the  east  of  the  district  of  M&u-ming,  and 
near  the  market  town  of  Mei-luh  on  or  near  the  San-kiau  ho 

^ H or  Three  Bridge  river.  The  next  place  he  calls  Fui-ong, 
which  is  perhaps  Sha-lang  sz’  lip  m , a township  put  down  be- 
tween Chih-shwui  and  Tienpeh ; the  hot  springs  spoken  of  in  the  nar. 
rative  are  inserted  in  the  map ; a salt  lake  also  occurs  near  the 
town.  One  of  the  hills  between  these  two  towns  is  the  Lo-fau  shan 


Hif  Ul>  famous  among  the  Cantonese  for  its  beautiful  scenery 
and  its  large  butterflies,  though  we  are  not  sure  there  may  not  be  two 
hills  of  the  same  name  in  the  province. 

Tienpeh  hien  |r3  or  Tinpak  (i.  e.  White  Lightning  town), 
on  the  sea-coast,  about  150  miles  southwest  from  Canton,  was  formerly 
a place  of  foreign  trade,  frequented  by  the  Portuguese  when  they  first 
came  to  China,  and  is  now  the  largest  sea-port  between  Kiangmun 
and  Kiungchau  in  Hainan.  The  marshes  from  which  the  government 
obtains  the  salt  lie  to  the  west  of  the  town,  and  are  protected,  though 
not  very  effectually,  from  the  clandestine  manufacture  and  exporta- 
tion of  the  commodity  by  natives,  by  forts  on  the  shores  and  islands, 
and  war-junks  in  the  harbors.  The  concourse  of  government  vessels 
and  workmen  connected  with  the  salt  department  has  done  much  to 


1849  Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  245 

increase  the  trade*  of  the  place;  it  lias  no  water  communication 
with  tin*  interior. 

“27//i  — At  nine  this  morning-  We  left  Kauchalt,  and  continued  our  journey 
northeasterly  on  good  roads,  and  through  a level,  well-cultivated  country 
We  passed  some  barren  mountains  of  a hard,  reddish,  rocky  soil ; also  passed 
through  one  town  and  four  villages.  At  length,  having  walked  32  miles,  we 
arrived  about  half-past  six,  weary  and  fatigued,  at  the  town  of  Ti-see  (Chili 
sliwui  87.?),  where  we  were  conducted  to  an  imperial  choultry  for  the  night. 
Several  officers  were  tarrying  in  the  same  building,  parties  of  whom  amused 
themselves  the  whole  night  playing  cards  ; and  we  could  not  but  observe 
the  good  humor  they  exhibited  whenever  any  of  them  lost  their  stakes. 

“2ti th. — Early  this  morning  we  left  Chih-shwui  and  pursued  our  march  to 
the  east  and  southward  for  20  miles  on  good  roads,  and  through  a well  cultivated 
country,  with  some  hills  in  different  places  exhibiting  a gentle  declivity,  in 
the  latter  part,  we  had  a distant  view  of  a lofty  range  of  mountains  to  the 
north-east;  and  passed  likewise  some  extensive  forests  of  bamboo,  a tree  which 
serves  the  natives  for  numberless  purposes,  and  may  be  considered,  as  well  as 
the  cocoa-nut  tree,  among  the  most  useful  gifts  bestowed  by  kind  Providence  on 
the  inhabitants  of  Asia.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  crossed  two  rivers,  and 
passed  through  two  towns  and  five  villages.  At  a quarter  after  three  in  the 
evening  we  arrived  at  the  town  of  Sha-lling  sz’.  In  the  latter  part  of  our 
journey,  we  observed  several  water-wheels  turned  by  the  current,  and  empty- 
ing the  water  into  aqueducts  for  irrigating  the  adjacent  grounds.  The  wheels 
are  made  mostly  of  bamboo,  'i’lieir  diameter  is  about  14  feet;  on  the  outer 
edge  are  boards  fixed  at  a certain  distance  from  each  other,  on  which  the  water 
acts  and  sets  them  in  motion.  On  the  outside  are  attached  two  or  three  rows 
of  buckets  that  empty  themselves  alternately,  and  keep  up  a constant  stream 
in  the  aqueducts. 

“ 2IM. — This  morning,  at  half-past  six,  we  setout  from  ShS-ldng,  and  travel- 
ed about  eastward  on  sandy,  indifferent  roads.  The  country  during  the  first 
part  of  our  journey  was  hilly  and  poorly  cultivated,  producing  chiefly  sweet 
potatoes,  with  a sprinkling  of  other  vegetables.  A little  after  we  halted  at  a 
clump  of  bamboos  near  the  roadside,  to  enjoy  a little  rest  and  refreshment,  when 
our  guides  happening  to  fall  asleep,  we  seized  the  opportunity  to  repossess  our- 
selves of  our  fowling-pieces,  the  want  of  which  we  had  often  regretted,  as  the 
country  every  where  abounds  with  hares  and  game  of  almost  every  description. 

“ On  our  left  lay  a ridge  of  craggy  mountains,  from  which  descended  several 
streams  of  limpid  water:  one  of  these  rivulets  meandered  near  us,  crossing  the 
road  in  its  course,  and  we  were  surprised  to  find  it  so  hot  that  a person  could 
not  bear  his  finger  in  it  for  more  than  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  This  streamlet 
was  ingeniously  conducted  through  the  middle  of  a neighboring  rest-house, 
where  were  three  commodious  baths,  with  convenient  and  separate  apartments 
for  each  ; but  we  could  not  learn  what  medicinal  qualities  the  water  possessed . 
We  saw  several  groves  of  very  lofty  bamboos  of  an  uncommon  size;  and  also 
overtook  twelve  criminals  in  bamboo  cages  about  four  feet  square,  on  their 
road  to  Canton,  to  be  tried  for  piracy.  Several  wheel-barrows  and  carts  load- 
ed with  goods,  also  passed  us  on  the  road. 

“ At  half-past  one  p.  m.,  we  arrived  at  Tien-peh  liien,  and  were  conducted 
to  a temple  for  the  night,  which  contained  a greater  number  and  variety  of 
images  than  any  other  that  we  have  yet  seen.  These  idols  might  be  about 
eighty  in  number,  scarcely  any  two  of  them  corresponding  either  in  sex,  size, 
form,  or  attitude,  exhibiting  altogether  an  appearance  as  fantastic  and  ludicrous 
as  can  well  be  imagined.  Some  of  them  seemed  to  shed  tears  of  blood,  which 
trickled  down  their  cheeks;  some  were  staggering  drunk  against  the  walls,  and 
others  lay  in  sprawling  attitudes  as  if  endeavoring  to  raise  themselves  after 
having  fallen  ; many  looked  more  sober  as  if  enjoying  the  scene  before  them  ; 
some  again  were  represented  as  carrying,  or  endeavoring  to  carry,  away  their 
intoxicated  companions  on  their  backs,  while  both  tumbling  together  to  the 
ground,  in  their  fall  threw  down  many  of  those  around  them.  Some  of  the 
images  had  the  heads  of  elephants,  dogs,  and  monkeys ; others  without  any 


246 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  May, 


heads  were  seen  in  corners  in  the  act  of  kindling  large  firea  , whilst  others 
were  busily  employed  roasting  other  gods  and  goddesses  at  the  same  tire,  hav 
ing  transfixed  them  with  long  spears,  which  served  as  spits  for  that  purpose 
In  the  entrance  of  the  building  behind  the  door,  stood  a white  horse  as  large 
as  life,  ready  bridled  and  saddled  ; but  the  rider  having  seemingly  taken  a drop 
too  much,  in  his  attempt  to  mount  had  staggered  back,  and  lay  with  both  arms 
outstretched  under  the  horse's  belly.  On  the  opposite  side  lay  his  companion, 
or  perhaps  servant,  in  a similar  or  rather  worse  situation  ; for  having  fallen 
flat  on  the  ground,  he  lay  between  his  horse's  hind  legs,  his  head  immediately 
under  the  tail  of  the  animal.  What  all  this  incongruous  jumble  was  intended 
to  represent,  we  could  not  exactly  learn  ; perhaps  it  is  a mode  of  recording  the 
triumph  of  the  Chinese  supernaturals  over  their  rival  deities. 

“ Tienpeh  is  a place  of  great  trade  and  commercial  importance.  It  is  situated 
on  an  arm  or  inlet  of  the  sea,  forming  two  good  harbors,  an  inner  and  an 
outer  ; the  former  is  rather  shoal,  and  the  vessels  ground  at  low  water,  but 
being  landlocked,  and  the  bottom  soft  mud,  they  receive  no  injury.  In  both 
the  harbors  there  were  many  junks  of  considerable  burden.  The  walls  of 
this  city  form  an  exact  square,  and  may  be  about  four  miles  each  way  ; they  are 
35  feet  high,  with  ramparts  and  parapets  as  usual,  but  no  fosse.  The  houses 
here  are  not  so  good,  nor  are  the  streets  so  clean  and  regular  as  those  in  other 
places  : the  bazars,  however,  are  abundantly  supplied  with  all  kinds  of  provi- 
sions, excellent  fish  of  various  sorts,  also  fine  vegetables  and  fruits,  such  as 
oranges  and  peaches.  A vast  quantity  of  salt  is  imported  into  Macao  and  Can- 
ton from  Tienpeh.  Off'lhe  outer  harbor  are  many  small  islands,  which  undoubt- 
edly contribute  to  its  shelter  and  general  security. 

u'Mlk. — In  the  afternoon  some  of  the  lascars  not  having  come  up,  I took  a 
walk  round  the  city  walls,  which  are  in  excellent  order.  At  each  gateway  the 
walls  are  double,  and  the  gates  strengthened  with  massy  plates,  or  broad  bars 
of  iron.” 


Leaving  Tienpeh,  the  party  continued  their  journey  not  far  from 
the  seashore,  and  the  town  whose  name  is  not  mentioned,  where  the 
large  rest-house  is  situated,  is  perhaps  the  deputy  magistracy  of  Shw^ng- 
yii  so  JjpJj'  lying  on  the  east  side  of  the  Jii-tung  shwui  |lj|pJ 

the  salt-water  river  spoken  of,  and  not  far  from  the  sea-shore. 
From  this  place,  the  road  turns  northeast  to  Tai-ping  sz’ 
one  of  the  townships  of  Yangkiang  hien,  and  not  far  from  it  is  Loh- 
ngdn  fei  ching  ^ iSDSt  where  the  party  embarked  on  boats 


a considerable 


lying  in  one  of  the  branches  of  the  To  kiing  ■Ffi’/X, 
stream  which  disembogues  opposite  the  large  island  of  Hailing  jfj 
and  affords  water  communication  with  the  district.  Yftng-kiang  hien 
PJj  '/X  jpfi  >s  the  southwestern  district  of  Chauking  fu  Jp? 
but  a place  of  no  great  consequence.  The  coast  hereabouts  is  stud- 
ded with  islands,  and  the  embouchure  of  the  river  divided  into  a large 
number  of  outlets,  the  whole  forming  a resort  for  fishermen  and 
pirates,  the  same  persons  alternating  these  occupations  as  opportunity 
or  necessity  prompt.  From  YfkngkiSng,  the  party  proceeded  up  the 
river  To,  which  seems  from  the  account  to  have  been  a pleasant  trip 
and  an  agreeable  relief  to  the  weariness  of  foot-traveling,  to  Y&ng- 


chun  hien  jj| 


, where  all  went  ashore. 


1849 


217 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 

“ 3ls< — At  11  a m.,  having  received  00  cash  each,  together  with  a new 
passport  and  guides,  we  set  out  from  Tienpeh,  and  continued  our  journey 
about  E.  N.  E through  a country  partly  hilly,  and  partly  level,  lying  be- 
tween two  rocky  mountains.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  through 
three  villages,  and  crossed  one  salt-water  river,  having  had  several  times  a 
view  of  the  sea.  At  half-past  three,  having  walked  22  miles,  we  arrived  at  a 
small  town,  and  were  conducted  to  the  most  extensive  resting-place  yet  seen, 
having  six  separate  cooking-houses,  and  everything  else  in  proportion.  The 
apartments  were  very  numerous,  which  gave  us  reason  to  suppose  that  proba- 
bly these  buildings  are  intended  also  for  the  accommodation  of  troops  ; it  may  be 
safely  said  that  this  one  could  conveniently  lodge  eight  hundred  men  with 
their  officers. 

“ Feb.  1st. — At  daylight  we  set  out  and  continued  our  journey  about  E.  N. 
E , the  roads  in  some  places  being  very  good.  The  country  is  hilly,  and  of  a 
hard,  sandy  soil,  well  cultivated,  however,  in  the  valleys.  This  part  of  China 
is  badly  supplied  with  firewood,  and  the  people  are  obliged  to  substitute  straw, 
hay,  and  cow-dung.  In  the  course  of  this  day's  route  we  crossed  two  bridges 
and  three  rivers,  in  one  of  which  we  saw  many  junks  lying  at  anchor  abreast 
of  a large  and  populous  city  ; we  also  passed  through  two  towns  and  seven 
villages.  At  half-past  three  in  the  afternoon,  having  traveled  27  miles,  we 
arrived  at  the  town  of  Taiping  sz’,  where  we  halted  for  the  night  at  an  imperial 
resting-house,  much  smaller  than  the  one  we  occupied  yesterday. 

“2d. — At  a little  after  daylight  we  left  Tai-ping,  and  at  seven  a.  m.  arrived 
at  the  town  of  Loh-ngan  fei,  a large  commercial  place,  situate  on  the  banks  of  a 
river,  navigable  for  flat-bottomed  boats.  This  town  may  be  about  two  and  a 
half  or  three  miles  in  extent,  but  it  has  no  walls.  The  streets  are  paved  and 
clean;  the  bazars  plentifully  stocked;  the  shops  large,  numerous,  and  well 
stored  with  various  articles  of  traffic.  At  three  in  the  afternoon,  the  lascars 
in  one  boat,  and  ourselves  and  servants  in  another,  were  tracked  down  the 
river  against  the  current ; but  at  seven  in  the  evening  the  boat  stuck  fast  upon 
a quicksand,  where  she  remained  for  the  night.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we 
shot  several  large  curlews  and  plovers,  of  beautiful  plumage. 

11 3d. — At  two  in  the  morning  we  made  sail,  steering  about  east  20  miles,  the 
water  of  the  river  for  the  greater  part  of  that  distance  being  very  brackish. 
Here  we  saw  myriads  of  wild  ducks,  of  various  species  and  sizes,  of  which  we 
shot  many,  to  the  great  astonishment  of  the  boatmen;  they  did  not  express 
much  surprise  at  seeing  a single  bird  killed,  as  they  supposed  we  used  only 
a single  ball ; but  when  they  saw  ten  or  a dozen  brought  down  together,  they 
appeared  quite  amazed,  for  they  had  no  idea  whatever  of  small  shot  or  its 
effects.  At  half-past  seven  in  the  morning,  we  landed  and  traveled  N.  N.  E. 
The  first  part  of  our  journey  lay  across  a swamp,  xvhere  walking  was  extreme- 
ly tiresome  for  the  distance  of  about  three  miles,  sinking  almost  knee-deep 
in  the  mud.  The  country  in  the  latter  part  was  well  cultivated,  though  hilly, 
with  a few  groves  of  small  pines.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  through 
one  town  and  four  villages,  crossed  moreover  two  fresh-water  rivers,  and  at 
half-past  three,  having  walked  twenty  miles,  arrived  weary  and  muddy  at  the 
city  of  Yangkidng.  Here  we  found  ourselves  annoyed  by  the  curious  disposi- 
tion of  the  inhabitants,  who  thronged  around  us  until  quite  dark,  when  we 
cut  short  their  entertainment  by  retiring  to  rest.  The  little  terrier  even  seemed 
to  attract  their  attention  as  much  as  we  ourselves;  the  words  fanqtii  and 
fancow,  which  signify  foreign  people  and  foreign  dog,  are  commonly  uttered 
as  a previous  notice  to  their  countrymen,  and  are  sure  to  bring  crowds. 

11  4th. — This  morning  we  sauntered  over  the  city-walls,  which  appear  very 
ancient ; they  are  about  thirty  feet  high  and  twenty  in  thickness.  In  each 
gateway  lay  a rusty  gun,  simply  laid  on  the  bare  ground,  so  that  they  may 
well  be  considered  quite  harmless  to  all,  except  to  those  who  may  happen  to 
use  them.  YAng-kiAng  is  situated  in  a fertile  plain,  on  the  banks  of  a fine  naviga- 
ble river,  (along  which  it  extends  several  miles.  The  streets  in  general  are 
narrow  and  the  houses  low,  though  there  are  some  large  shops  which  have  a 
handsome  appearance.  The  markets  are  well  supplied  with  provisions  At 
least  one  third  of  the  space  within  the  walls  is  appropriated  for  gardens,  tanks, 


348 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton . Mav, 

and  fish-ponds  the  fish  are  always  brought  alive  to  market,  let  the  distance 
be  ever  so  great.  At  half-past  ten  we  waited  on  the  governor,  but  had  not 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  his  excellency  ; his  women  and  children,  however,  came 
out  to  see  the  ftutcow,  which  they  expressed  a wish  to  purchase,  but  could  not 
think  of  giving  more  than  one  dollar.  Having  each  received  forty  cash  for 
two  days’  expenditure,  we  embarked  in  boats  and  went  about  three  miles. 

“5 tli. — At  day-light  we  got  under  weigh,  but  were  obliged  to  track  the  boat 
ourselves,  the  boat-people  having  refused  their  assistance.  The  country  on 
each  side  of  the  river  is  well  tilled,  producing  chiefly  wheat,  which  was  in  ear, 
and  laid  out  in  extensive  fields,  some  of  them  containing  at  least  niuety  acres. 
In  the  course  of  this  day  we  passed  several  villages  and  lime-kilns. 

“6</i. — At  day-light,  we  got  under  weigh,  and  proceeded  about  15  miles 
N E.  to  E.,  through  a most  delightful  country,  covered  with  fields  of  wheat  as 
far  as  we  could  see  on  either  side,  and  interspersed  with  several  country 
seats,  whose  sites  were  peculiarly  rural  and  pleasant.  This  agreeable  prospect 
was  bounded  by  a chain  of  mountains  just  rising  in  the  horizon,  both  to  the 
riaht  and  left  of  us.  At  five  in  the  afternoon,  we  landed  at  the  city  of 
Yhngchun  hien,  and  waited  on  the  governor,  who  ordered  us  to  be  conducted 
to  a temple  for  the  night,  the  priest  of  which  had  the  politeness  to  give  us  his 
little  apartment,  with  the  use  of  its  furniture  ; a favor  that  proved  very  conveni- 
ent and  comfortable.  The  chief  duty  of  these  ecclesiastics  is  to  place  lighted 
caudles  before  each  of  the  idols  at  sunset,  and  at  daylight  to  strike  a large  bell, 
the  sound  of  which  may  be  heard  at  a great  distance;  and  afterwards  to  offer 
up  prayers  and  place  oblations  before  these  inanimate  figure  of  clay  and  straw. 
The  city  of  Yang-chun  is  situated  in  a fine  level  Mr  he  banks  of  a river 

which  is  neither  very  deep  nor  broad.”  ,r  ■ 

The  river  is  called  Moh-yang  kiing  J at  Yangchun  and 
for  a good  distance  above  it,  the  size  of  the  tributaries  not  being  so 
large  as  to  lead  to  the  adoption  of  a new  name.  The  remarkable 
rocks  spoken  of  in  the  following  extract  are  inserted  in  the  map,  each 
one  of  them  having  its  own  name  as  Fish-gem,  Stone-screen,  &c. 
Much  of  the  stone  brought  to  Cantonas  material  for  the  artificial 
rockwork  constructed  about  fish-ponds,  gardens,  and  summer-houses 
of  the  opulent,  is  obtained  from  this  region,  though  probably  not  from 
this  precise  locality,  as  the  land  transportation  across  the  country  to 
Chauking  fu  would  add  greatly  to  the  price.  The  calcination  of  lime- 
stone for  the  purpose  of  procuring  quicklime,  practiced  on  the  banks 
of  this  river,  and  doubtless  through  the  whole  region,  is,  we  believe, 
unknown  in  the  neighborhood  of  Canton,  where  none  of  the  rock 
occurs  in  place. 

“7 tli. — Having  received  sixty  cash  each  this  morning,  with  passport  and 
guards,  we  embarked  at  eleven  a.  m.  in  three  separate  boats,  and  steered  from 
E.  to  N.  E.  through  a charming  level  country,  producing  wheat  and  barley  in 
great  abundance,  with  here  and  there  some  fields  of  sugar-cane  and  sweet 
potatoes.  The  same  range  of  mountains  still  in  sight  on  both  sides  of  us,  but 
apparently  nearer  than  yesterday.  We  amused  ourselves  with  our  guns  as  we 
walked  along  the  river  side,  while  our  people  relieved  the  poor  boatmen  in 
tracking  the  boal. 

“ In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  one  town  and  three  villages  ; likewise, 
several  remarkable  rocks,  nearly  perpendicular  on  all  sides,  and  about  1*00  feet 
high,  perfectly  isolated,  and  unconnected  with  any  elevated  ground  what- 
soever, the  circumjacent  country  being  low,  level,  alluvial  soil  All  these 
circumstances  considered,  it  is  rather  difficult  to  account  for  the  existence  of 


1849. 


i 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  ('an ton 


233 


dismissed  with  a present  of  two  mace  in  silver,  and  a dram  of  hot 
spirits,  which  the  servant  poured  down  his  throat  cup  after  cup,  until 
he  was  nearly  tipsy,  and  had  his  mouth  scalded  into  the  bargain. 
Subsequent  examination  enabled  him  to  form  a better  idea  of  the 
place,  which  he  briefly  describes. 

“ Some  of  the  streets  are  a mile  and  a half  in  length,  moderately  broad,  clean , 
and  in  general  flagged  or  paved  with  large  square  stones.  Awnings  of  various 
colors  are  spread  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  which  make  it  cool  and  pleasant, 
otherwise  it  must  be  very  much  the  reverse,  particularly  in  the  summer  season 
This  city  is  very  populous,  and  abundantly  supplied  with  provisions  of 
every  kind,  which  are  extremely  cheap.  Many  of  the  houses  are  two  stories 
high,  particularly  along  the  river  side.  This  place  is  likewise  the  principal 
place  of  trade  ; t lie  exports,  so  far  as  1 have  been  able  to  learn,  are  sugar, 
betel-nut,  cocoa-nuts,  cocoa-nut  oil,  salt,  and  tanned  hides  : the  imports  consist 
of  a great  variety  of  China  articles,  cotton,  furs,  English  broadcloth,  flints,  and 
opium  ; all  which  they  receive  by  way  of  China.  The  junks  take  in  their 
cargoes  and  sail  hence  about  the  month  of  May  or  June  for  the  coast,  and  the 
trading-vessels  from  China  arrive  here  with  the  last  of  the  northeast  monsoon, 
and  return  with  the  first  of  the  southwest  monsoon. 

“ In  this  city,  as  well  as  in  Kiungshan,  there  are  several  honorary  monu- 
ments, such  as  b;fore  described,  but  much  larger  than  any  hitherto  seen.  We 
observed  a lar-'"  - ground,  forming  nearly  a square  of  four  miles  each 

— upletely  covered  with  graves,  and  we  were  given 

to  undersm..^  - il. is  w.<s  the  burying-ground  common  to  both  cities,  ex- 

tending about  north  and  south,  and  having  the  main  road  passing  through  it  ; 
here  repose  the  numerous  offspring  of  many  ages.  In  their  funerals  the  people 
carry  with  them  to  the  place  of  interment,  a quantity  of  victuals,  correspond- 
ing in  costliness  to  the  rank  of  the  deceased,  whch  they  distribute  to  every 
person  passing  that  way,  and  we  also  frequently  came  in  for  a share,  which, 
under  the  existing  circumstances  of  our  situation,  was  by  no  means  unaccep- 
table.” 

The  time  until  their>  departure  was  mostly  spent  at  Kiungshan,  and 
judging  from  the  journal,  the  whole  party  enjoyed  most  unusual  free- 
dom in  going  about,  which  some  of  them  availed  of  to  take  liberties 
with  the  natives,  which  have  been  too  frequently  enacted  elsewhere 
in  China,  and  led  the  authorities,  no  doubt,  to  restrain  those  whom 
accident  has  thrown  into  their  hands. 

“ This  morning  some  complaints  were  made  against  the  disorderly  conduct 
of  the  sipahis,  who  going  into  the  bazaars,  ran  off  with  different  articles  from 
the  shops  without  paying  for  them  ; in  consequence  of  which,  some  soldiers 
were  appointed  to  attend  the  gates  of  our  temple,  to  prevent  the  people 
fc  oin  going  out  after  gun-fire  in  the  evening,  or  before  gun-fire  in  the  mornintr  ; 
this  is,  unfortunately  for  us  by  no  means  the  first  instance  of  similar  miscon- 
duct on  tlie  part  of  our  crew,  who  have  long  since  considered  themselves  free 
of  all  control.” 

A tew  weeks  after  this,  some  of  the  mbit  got  drunk  upon  sainshoo, 
and  began  to  light  with  one  another  in  the  square,  when  as  their  of- 
ficers were  endeavoring  to  carry  them’ off  to  the  temple,  one  of  the 
bystanders  st  uck  one  of  the  Englishmen,  and  gave  him  a ftir  challenge 
to  box:  this  was  accepted,  and  the.  two  fought  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  the  spectators  forming-  a ring,  and  looking  oil  with  great 

30 


VOL  XVIII  XU.  V. 


231 


T'rip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


May, 


interest  to  see  which  came  off  victorious.  During  the  tumult,  two 
police-officers  made  their  appearance  with  a guard,  whereupon  a 
deathlike  stillness  succeeded,  every  one  waiting  for  their  action. 
Seated  in  curule  chairs  which  were  brought  after  them,  they  inquired 
into  the  causes  of  the  disturbance,  and  finding  their  countryman  to 
be  in  the  wrong,  sentenced  him  to  receive  two  dozen  strokes  of  the 
bamboo  on  his  bare  back  on  the  spot,  and  be  exposed  in  the  cangue 
near  the  residence  of  the  foreigners.  The  sailors  were  then  called 
up,  and  all  those  who  had  been  fighting  or  drinking,  received  a dozen 
strokes  of  the  bamboo  in  the  same  way,  the  people  all  the  while  stand- 
ing around,  observers  of  this  evenhanded  justice.  The  Europeans 
were  also  told  they  would  have  been  served  in  the  same  way  had  they 
offended  in  like  manner,  and  were  admonished  not  to  frequent  the 
disreputable  parts  of  the  town. 

The  facilities  possessed  by  this  party  for  speaking  with  the  natives 
opened  the  way  to  considerable  intercourse;  and  on  one  occasion, 
while  rambling  through  the  streets  of  Kiungsh  ii  " ™ and  his  com- 
panions were  invited  into  the  house  of  a gentleo  . regaled 

them  with  sweetmeats,  and  made  many  inquiries  concerning  the 
customs  of  the  English.  While  there,  the  females  of  the  household 
came  in  to  see  the  strangers,  and  after  their  curiosity  was  gratified, 
they  informed  them  that  a neighbor  wished  to  see  them.  The  party 
was  then  led  through  a private  door  communicating  with  the  next 
house,  where  the  same  entertainment  was  given  them,  and  then  to  a 
third,  fourth,  and  fifth  in  the  same  manner,  the  whole  row  of  houses 
being  accessible  though  these  private  doers. 

The  remainder  of  their  stay  was  occupied  in  going  around  the  town, 
amusing  themselves  in  their  lodging-place,  and  noting  whatever  in- 
cidents came  to  their  knowledge. 

“Tins  day  (21st)  we  were  employed  in  cleaning  our  fowling-pieces,  and 
niaksiwthe  necessary  preparations  for  an  excursion  into  the  country  to-morrow, 
hut  in  dryinir  some  powder,  of  which  vve  had  saved  several  canisters,  a quantity 
happened  by  some  means  or  other  to  blow  up,  and  unfortunately  carried  away 
the  pack  of  one  of  the  idols  near  which  it  was  placed  On  this  we  found  that 
these  images  are  simply  made  of  yellow  clay  and  straw,  the  ends  of  which 
appearing  behin'd’in  this  one,  which  the  powder  had  turned  as  black  as  ink, 
made  the  deity  cut  a very  laughable  figure.  We  were  apprehensive  that  this 
unforeseen  misfortune  would  be  productive  of  serious  consequences,  and  bring 
upon  us  the  severest  displeasure  of  the  inhabitants;  for  the  present,  however, 
we  covered  it  over  the  best  way  we  could  with  an  old  boat-cloak,  but  at 
nieht  the  guards  in  going  the  rounds  took  it  off ; when  without  asking  any 
questions,  they  burst  into  a violent  fit  of  laughter,  and  left  us  to  enjoy  a relief 
we  little  expected. 

“ In  the  course  of  the  day,  while  we  were  busy  about  one  thing  or  another, 
some  of  the  natives  contrived  to  slip  off  with  a canister  of  glazed  powder  ; and 
bein''  anxious  to  know  its  contents,  they  applied  fire  to  the  soldering.  Dur- 


1819. 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  2136 

jng  the  time  the  lead  was  melting,  they  had  collected  round  it  to  the  nunibe 
of  twenty  or  thirty,  watching  with  the  greatest  curiosity  to  see  what  wonder- 
ful matter  was  so  carefully  concealed  in  the  canister,  when  it  exploded  in  the 
midst  of  them,  with  a report  equal  to  that  of  a six-pounder,  winch  sent  them 
running  in  all  directions,  exclaiming  that  the  devil  was  in  the  fanquis  ; for- 
tunately it  happened  that  none  of  them  were  much  hurt. 

“ One  morning  1 walked  out,  in  order  to  take  a more  particular  view  of  the 
town,  and  observe  what  was  most  remarkable  in  it.  We  had  not  gone  far  be. 
fore  we  lost  our  way,  and  continued  wandering  about  for  a considerable  time  : 
we  found  the  shops  well  stocked  with  goods  and  manufactures  of  various 
kinds,  and  were  particularly  struck  with  the  degree  of  perfection  exhibited 
by  them  in  the  carving,  polishing,  and  mounting  of  cocoa-nut  shells 
We  saw  teapots,  saucers,  cups, — in  fact  they  seem  to  convert  this  kind  gift  of  na- 
ture to  almost  all  manner  of  household  uses,  forming  various  domestic  articles 
of  a beautiful  jet-black  polish,  elegantly  ornamented  with  silver.  One  day, 
we  saw  several  dried  snake  skins  and  hides  of  tigers  exposed  for  sale  ; the 
former  is  the  species  known  by  the  name  of  the  rock  or  mountain  snake, 
and  judging  from  the  breadth  and  length  of  the  skins  we  saw,  the  animals 
on  this  island  must  be  of  enormous  size.  The  dried  powder  is  used  me- 
dicinally, the  natives  supposing  it  to  possess  valuable  and  singular  properties. 

“ In  the  afternoon  1 visited  the  barracks  of  the  city,  which  appear  sutliciently 
large  for  the  accommodation  of  about  3,00b  men,  and  are  exclusively  fitted  for 
infantry  ; tlipy  are  inclosed  by  a wall  nearly  ten  feet  high,  forming  an  oblong 
square.  On  the  right  and  left  hand  side  of  the  entrance,  are  extensive  ranges 
of  buildings  for  the  privates;  towards  the  centre  are  the  officers’  quarters, 
a long  line  of  houses  running  parallel  with  the  walls  that  surround  the 
whole,  and  consist  but  of  one  story  each  They  contain  numerous  apartments, 
furnished  by  the  emperor  with  chairs,  tables,  and  cots  to  slepp  on,  but  having 
neither  bedding  nor  curtains.  Behind  this  last  mentioned  row  of  buildings  are 
gardens,  baths,  cooking-places,  and  other  conveniences,  forming  altogether  a 
most  commodious  residence.  Fuel,  salt,  and  cooking  utensils,  are  always 
provided  at  the  expense  of  government. 

“This  morning  (Jan.  5th)  were  celebrated  the  nuptials  of  the  prefect’s 
eldest  daughter.  The  bride  and  bridegroom  were  carried  in  very  elegant  se- 
dans, attended  by  a vast  train  of  officers  with  a pompous  retinue  of  servants. 
The  procession  passed  through  the  principal  streets  of  the  town,  and  the 
whole  was  followed  by  a large  body  of  troops,  cavalry  and  infantry.  The 
bride  was  richly  dressed,  and  appeared  to  be  about  17  years  of  age,  handsome, 
and  remarkably  fair,  but  rather  stout ; she  was  conveyed  in  a splendid  sedan, 
preceded  by  a cortege  of  ladies  carried  in  the  same  manner  On  this  occa- 
sion the  imperial  colors  where  hoisted  on  the  ramparts;  several  royal  salutes 
were  fired  during  the  day,  and  a grand  public  entertainment  was  given  by  the 
viceroy.  In  the  evening  a brilliant  display  of  fireworks  was  exhibited,  accom- 
panied with  a succession  of salutes  even  till  day-light,  at  which  time  the  com- 
pany broke  up. 

The  greater  part  of  this  day  (10th)  was  employed  in  inspecting  several  very 
extensive  libraries,  some  of  which  contained  large  collections  of  books,  but  none 
of  them  were  bound.  There  is  also  an  extensive  academy  here,  but  on  visiting 
it,  we  were  greatly  disappointed  to  find  it  without  students.  The  building  itself 
was  surrounded  by  a wall,  and  within  the  inclosure  were  numerous  detached 
offices,  kitchens,  baths,  and  other  conveniences.” 

A number  of  Cochinchiuese  were  brought  in  by  the  government 
cruizers,  who  had  been  captured  as  pirates  in  the  Straits,  and  were 
to  be  carried  to  Canton  with  the  crew  of  the  Friendship,  there  to  be 
examined  and  punished.  A day  or  two  after  their  arrival,  Mr.  R. 
went  to  see  them,  and  heard  their  own  story;  though  in  an  entry  a 
few  days  after  this,  he  says  they  were  expatriated  people  who  had 
been  driven  out  of  their  own  country  by  the  reverses  of  war,  and  forced 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


?36 


May, 


to  seek  an  uncertain  living  upon  the  islands  along  the  coast  and  in 
the  gulf  of  Tonquin. 

“ They  are  fourteen  in  number,  including  men,  women,  and  children,  some 
of  whom  are  infants  at  the  breast  They  appeared  much  pleased  at  meeting 
with  people  who  could  speak  to  them  in  their  own  lauguage.  1 inquired  into 
the  circumstances  of  their  capture  by  the  Hainanese,  and  was  informed  that 
being  with  their  families  fishing  on  the  coast  of  Cochinchina,  they  met  with 
a sudden  squall,  which  drove  them  off  the  land  into  the  guif  of  Ton- 
quin. They  further  informed  us,  that  in  addition  to  that  misfortune,  they 
experienced  a more  serious  calamity  with  some  Hainanese  vessels  of  war  ; whose 
crews  mistaking  them  for  pirates,  fired  into  their  boats  until  they  had  killed 
nearly  half  their  number;  after  which  they  boarded  and  took  the  remainde.r 
prisoners  On  landing  them  at  Hainan,  their  captors  reported  that  they  were 
pirates,  and  claimed  the  reward  offered  by  government  for  such  services 
These  poor  people  likewise  remarked  to  us,  that  on  their  trial,  the  person 
who  acted  as  interpreter  knew  nothing  of  their  lauguage,  and  they  were  con- 
sequently deprived  of  the  advantages  of  making  themselves  understood.  They 
appeared  desirous  to  communicate  further  particulars  respecting  their  unhappy 
situation,  but  the  officers  of  justice,  who  were  observing  our  conversation  for 
some  time  with  an  apparently  jealous  eye,  prevented  it  by  ordering  them  to 
retire  from  the  prison  gates." 

A second  instance  of  the  good  feeling  which  existed  towards  the 
shipwrecked  strangers  appeared  at  the  end  of  their  stay  in  Kiungsh&n. 
We  think,  if  every  company  of  shipwrecked  foreigners  in  China  had 
been  as  well  supplied  with  linguists,  their  treatment  would  have  been 
proportionably  improved. 

“ 13  th.  Having  received  positive  information  that  we  are  to  set  out  on  our  jour- 
ney to-morrow,  we  went  to  make  farewell  visits  to  our  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances in  Kiungshan : they  appeared  much  affected,  and  showed  great  regret 
at  our  final  departure,  saying  we  should  never  meet  again  in  this  world,  and  this 
sentiment  was  generally  conveyed  with  a tenderness  of  expression  and  evidence 
of  strong  feeling,  that  could  not  fail  to  leave  upon  any  mind  the  most  permanent 
impression.  Wishing  to  testify  on  our  side  the  sense  of  gratitude  we  entertain- 
ed of  their  kind  treatment  of  us  during  our  stay  amongst  them,  and  desirous  also 
to  make  known  the  generous  hospitality  we  had  experienced  in  the  country,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  give  notice  as  generally  as  possible  of  the  loss  of  the  Friend- 
ship to  any  Europeans,  or  others  who  might  from  a similar  misfortune  hereafter 
pass  this  way,  we  prepared  and  pasted  up  on  the  walls  of  our  temple,  a large 
sheet  of  paper,  containing  an  account  of  all  the  circumstances,  written  in  fe  ur 
European  and  five  Asiatic  languages,  one  of  which  was  Chinese,  which  was 
perfectly  understood  by  the  Hainanese.” 

“ The  time  of  their  departure  at  length  arrived ; they  laid  out  their 
allowance  of  forty  cash  each  mostly  in  salted  duck’s  eggs,  and  packed 
up  their  baggage  to  leave  for  Hai-kau  or  Hoi-hau,  where  they  were 
distributed  into  six  different  vessels.  As  they  went  aboard,  their  at- 
tention was  “ attracted  by  an  old  woman  belonging  to  the  temple 
where  they  had  resided,  who  had  followed  them  from  Kiungshm,  cry- 
ing bitterly  ; in  fact,  a fond  mother  could  scarcely  manifest  more 
affection  or  tenderness  at  a final  separation  from  her  children.”  At 
high  water  the  morning  of  Jan.  15th,  the  “ commodore”  fired  a gun, 
and  in  the  course  of  half  an  hour,  the  whole  fleet  was  in  motion,  and 


1849. 


237 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton 

when  under  sail  afforded  a pleasing  sight,  occupying  in  the  outline  a 
space  of  many  miles  in  extent.  All  safely  got  across  the  shallow 
straits,  and  as  the  vessels  neared  the  opposite  coasts,  the  people  came 
down  to  the  beach  in  great  numbers,  expressing  their  joy  to  see  them. 
The  anchorage  was  at  Ilai-ngan  so  or  Hoi-on,  the  re- 

sidence of  a tung-chi  or  sub-prefect,  an  officer  of  the  same  rank  as  is 
stationed  at  Casa  Branca,  Amoy,  and  elsewhere  along  the  coast. 

From  this  place,  the  mariners  and  prisoners,  were  all  taken  to  Sti- 
wan  hien  the  chief  town  of  the  district  which  occupies  the 

southern  part  of  the  peninsula. 

“ At  a little  after  eight.,  our  vessel  reached  the  bay  of  Hai-ngiin  so,  abreast  of 
the  city,  at  a distance  of  60  or  70  yards  off  shore  : the  moment  the  anchor  was 
down,  numbers  of  flat-boats  were  dispatched  for  cargo,  which,  in  general, 
consisted  of  sugar,  betel-nuts,  salt,  and  tanned-hides. 

“ The  city  of  Hii-ngin  so,  where  we  landed  about  half-past  eight,  is  situated 
on  the  south-westernmost  extreme  of  the  Chinese  empire  ; here  the  crew  joined 
us,  and  we  found  they  had  been  previously  provided  with  guns,  besides  a guard 
of  soldiers  for  the  Cochinchinese  prisoners.  These  unfortunate  men  were 
chained  and  carried  in  bamboo  cages  by  four  men,  but  their  wives  and  children 
were  allowed  wheel-barrows  for  their  conveyance.  After  taking  a little  refresh- 
ment, we  set  out,  53  persons  in  number,  and  traveled  in  a northwest  direc- 
tion. The  country  was  plain  and  level,  the  soil  a reddish  clay,  highly  cultiva- 
ted in  continued  fields  of  sugar-canes.  The  roads  were  excellent,  and  shaded 
by  a row  of  large  trees  on  each  side.  At  two  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  town  of 
Sli-wan  hien,  where  we  remained  for  the  night.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we 
passed  through  two  towns  of  considerable  size,  and  met  on  the  way  several 
carts  and  wheel-barrows  laden  with  various  sorts  of  merchandize. 

“ 16th. — At  nine  a.  m.  we  were  sent  for  by  the  district  magistrate,  and  being 
all  mustered  received  each  32  cash.  His  excellency  moreover  presented  us  with 
four  catties  of  fine  black  tea  ; which,  as  being  highly  acceptable,  was  received 
with  becoming  acknowledgments.  We  then  took  leave,  and  set  out  from  Slt-wan, 
continuing  our  journey  through  a fine  level  country,  the  soil  of  which  was  mostly 
of  a dark  reddish  color  ; the  whole  was  divided  into  large  fields  of  pasturage 
and  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  the  plants  in  the  latter  appeared  to  be  rich,  and  of 
a superior  quality.  In  our  progress  this  day  we  passed  through  two  large  towns, 
and  several  villages,  and  crossed  many  bridges.  The  roads  in  general  were  good, 
and  we  found  the  shade  afforded  by  the  trees  highly  agreeable  and  refreshing, 
particularly  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  which  from  noon  till  nearly  three  o’clock 
was  intense.  We  met  several  carts  and  wheel-barrows  loaded  with  various 
articles  moving  to  the  northwest ; also  many  foot-passengers  traveling  in  the  same 
direction.  At  half-past  six  p.  m,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Lock-oon,  where  we 
remained  for  the  night,  having  walked  in  the  course  of  this  day  about  30  English 
miles. 

“At  four  a . m .,  the  moon  shining  brightly,  we  collected  our  people  together  by 
beat  of  drum,  and  marched  out  of  the  town,  continuing  our  journey  through  a 
most  beautiful  country,  of  a light,  reddish  soil,  laid  out  in  general  into  very  ex- 
tensive fields  of  pastur.-.ge.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  journey,  which  was  towards 
the  N.  N.  W.  we  crossed  an  immense  paddy-field,  perfectly  level,  and  extend- 
ing as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  without  the  smallest  shrub  to  intercept  the 
view.  The  crop  was  about  a foot  high,  of  a deep  green,  which  rendered  the 
prospect  truly  pleasing.  The  road  on  this  extensive  plain  was  formed  entirely 
of  large  cut  stones,  raised  about  four  feet,  and  sufficiently  broad  for  carts  and 
other  vehicles  to  pass. 

“ In  the  course  of  this  day  we  passed  through  one  large  town,  and  several 
villages;  also  crossed  four  bridges  and  one  large  river.  At  five  r.  m..  having 


93S 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


May, 


walked  32  miles,  we  reached  Hiii-king  hien,  where  we  halted  for  the  night ; this 
is  a populous  town  of  the  second  class,  and  appears  to  be  a rich  and  trading 
place,  as  we  saw  several  vessels  of  some  burden  lying  abreast  the  town.  Some 
of  tlie  streets  are  upwards  of  a mile  long;  they  are  broad  and  clean,  with  large 
shops  filled  with  various  sorts  of  goods,  among  which  we  noticed  soft  sugar, 
tinsel,  and  artificial  flowers.  In  the  centre  of  the  city,  there  stands  a pagoda 
two  hundred  feet  high.  In  the  course  of  the  day  tee  observed  several  bales  of  cot- 
ton, which  must  no  doubt  have  been  imported  into  Canton  from  Bombay, 
whence  it  was  probably  re-shipped  to  this  port  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  interior. 

“ At  11  a.  m.  having  procured  four  wheel-barrows  to  carry  our  baggage,  we  set 
out  and  traveled  as  yesterday,  N.  N.  W.,  through  a vast  plain  as  even  and  level 
as  a bowling-green,  there  not  being  even  the  smallest  hillock  to  be  seen  during 
the  whole  of  this  day's  journey.  After  sun-set,  this  plain  had  a curious  apnear- 
ance,  resembling  the  sea  in  a calm  night.  In  the  course  of  this  day’s  march 
p issed  through  four  small  villages,  and  met,  as  usual,  many  loaded  carts  upon 
the  road  ; also  numbers  of  sedans,  and  swarms  of  pedestrians.  At  half-past 
7 p.  m.  we  arrived  at  the  town  of  Hoi-lioon,  where  we  remained  for  the  night : 
our  Cochinchinese  companions  were  lodged  in  the  same  house;  the  men  remain- 
ed outside  in  their  cages,  but  the  women  and  children  were  allowed  a room  to 
sleep  in. 

“ At  half-past  six  a.  m.,  we  departed  from  Hoi-hoon  in  company  with  the 
Cochinchinese  prisoners,  being  altogether  sixty-nine  in  number ; and  marching 
through  the  town  as  usual  with  drum  and  fife,  attracted  multitudes  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  have,  in  fact,  thus  far  manifested  even  a greater  degree  of 
curiosity,  if  possible,  than  the  people  of  Hainan.  On  our  landing  at  Hai-ngtin 
so,  it  should  have  been  observed,  the  people  swarmed  down  to  the  sea-side, 
and  followed  us  not  only  through  the  town,  but  a considerable  way  beyond  it : 
when  traveling  through  the  country,  laborers  would  leave  their  work,  crowd- 
ing down  to  the  road-side  to  stare  at  us  as  we  passed  ; even  the  Cochinchinese 
are  to  this  people  subjects  of  wonder  and  astonishment.  As  we  approached 
any  of  the  large  towns,  the  inhabitants  have  regularly  come  a considerable  dis- 
tance to  meet  us,  both  men,  women,  and  children  ; for  they  appear  always  to 
have  been  well  apprised  of  the  exact  time  of  our  arrival.  We  have  hitherto, 
however,  observed  a striking  difference  between  the  Chinese  and  Hainanese; 
the  former  are  neither  so  fair,  handsome,  nor,  in  general,  so  well  dressed.  Af- 
ter leaving  Hai-kSng,  we  continued  our  journey  through  the  same  great  plain,  in 
a north-by-east  direction,  for  about  twenty  miles,  when  the  country  began  to 
assume  rather  a different  appearance,  being  diversified  with  hills  of  a gentle 
declivity,  and  laid  out  into  small  fields  and  gardens.  The  whole  of  the  country 
thus  far,  may  be  considered  as  one  undivided  plain  of  not  less  than  a hundred 
miles  in  length,  two  thirds  of  which  appears  to  be  used  for  pasturage,  and  the 
other  appropriated  to  cultivating  rice  and  sugar-cane.  During  the  latter  part 
of  our  journey,  the  soil  was  stony,  and  not  so  well  cultivated  as  in  other  places 
before  noticed.” 

We  find  some  difficulty  in  following  our  author  in  his  journey, 
partly  from  the  incorrect  manner  in  which  the  names  of  places  are 
printed,  such  as  Hock-un  for  Ilaikmg  (or  Hoi-kong  as  it  is  perhaps 
pronounced  on  the  spot),  Cow-the-oio  for  Kauchau  ; but  more  from 
the  inaccuracy  and  poverty  of  the  Chinese  maps,  which  being  made 
for  governmental  use,  contain  nothing  but  the  names  of  the  chief 
towns  of  the  departments  and  their  subdivisions,  the  mountains,  rivers, 
and  islands,  entirely  omitting  the  numerous  villages  and  towns  which 
are  here  spoken  of.  Hai-kang  hien  is  more  frequently  called  Lui- 
chau  fii,  and  is  the  residence  of  the  prefect  of  the  department.  The 
country  here  described  as  so  remarkably  level  would  be  regarded  as 


1849. 


Trip  /ruin  Hainan  to  Canton. 


239 


rather  hilly,  judging  from  the  map,  and  on  this  point  we  think  the 
traveler’s  account  should  be  taken  with  some  regard  to  his  opportuni- 
ties for  observation.  H.ii-kftng  hien  stretches  across  the  peninsula, 
its  chief  town  lying  on  the  river  Ta-tu  , not  far  from 

the  sea.  Hoi-hoon  is  perhaps  the  same  as  Hai-tau  ying  t]J|  rp?*, 
east  of  Suiki,  but  neither  this  place  nor  Lock-oon  are  inserted  in  the 
native  maps  we  possess. 

“ In  the  course  of  this  day  we  passed  through  five  small  villages,  and  at  three 
in  the  afternoon  arrived  at  Suiki  hien,  where  we  rested  for  the  night.  This  is  a 
district  town  of  the  third  class  : the  walls  are  built  of  brick,  about  fifteen  feet 
high,  with  ramparts  and  parapets,  through  which  are  numerous  embrasures  very 
small  and  close,  with  loop-holes  between,  for  matchlocks,  arrows,  and  the  like 
implements  of  war  ; we  saw  only  two  or  three  guns,  four-pounders,  badly  mount- 
ed at  each  gateway.  The  houses  are  clean,  and  the  markets  well  supplied  with 
provisions.  Within  the  walls  are  many  tanks  or  ponds.  The  country  around 
is  laid  out  into  fields,  producing  various  sorts  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  particularly 
peaches.  In  the  middle  of  the  town  stands  a lofty  pagoda,  which  can  be  seen 
at  a great  distance  when  coming  from  the  southward.  Suiki  is  celebrated  for 
a singular  commerce  in  female  beauties.  They  are  brought  hither  from  distant 
places  when  very  young,  to  be  instructed  in  all  the  accomplishments  of  the 
country.  The  place,  in  fact,  is  considered  a grand  depot  for  wives  and  concubines, 
and  for  which  people  send  or  come  from  remote  parts. 

“20 th. — This  morning,  on  beating  the  drum  to  collect  the  lascars,  we  found 
that  several  had  not  come  up,  and  were  informed  that  we  could  not  leave  the 
place  until  they  had  arrived.  A little  after  nine  the  next  day,  the  remainder 
having  arrived,  we  waited  on  the  governor,  who  called  over  our  names,  and  or- 
dered us  to  be  paid  twenty  cash  each,  for  two  days,  together  with  a fresh  pass- 
port, and  guides  for  the  next  district.  While  the  former  was  making  out,  the 
ladies,  as  usual,  made  their  appearance  in  the  audience-hall,  to  the  number  of 
ten  or  a dozen,  to  gratify  their  curiosity  in  gazing  at  the  fanquis,  as  they  call 
us : none  of  them  appeared  to  be  more  than  nineteen  or  twenty,  whereas  his 
excellency  must  be  upwards  of  sixty. 

“At  10  a.  m.,  we  took  leave,  and  pursued  our  march  northeasterly,  through 
a beautiful  grassy  plain  of  great  extent,  perfectly  level,  and  appropriated,  as  we 
supposed,  for  feeding  cattle,  of  which,  however,  we  have  not  hitherto  observed 
a number  corresponding  to  the  land  in  use  for  that  purpose.  Here  and  there 
were  some  patches  of  rice  and  vegetables.  The  roads  that  run  through  this  plain  are 
broad  and  excellent.  During  the  latter  part  of  our  journey  tire  land  was  hilly, 
and  not  so  well  cultivated,  but  towards  evening  the  country  resumed  its  former 
level  and  fertile  appearance,  being  covered  with  rice-fields  and  other  cultivated 
enclosures,  interspersed  with  pine  and  peach  trees.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we 
passed  through  two  villages,  and  one  large  town,  as  also  some  resting-houses, 
as  they  are  termed,  where  we  sometimes  stopped  to  refresh  ourselves  and  crew. 
These  houses  regularly  occur  along  the  main  road,  and  are  in  general,  commodious 
places,  built  and  supported  at  the  emperor's  expens  •,  being  intended  for  the  use 
of  military  officers  and  others  in  his  service,  who  have  occasion  to  travel  from 
one  place  to  another.  Nearby  are  three  white  pyramids  erected  in  a conspicuous 
place,  to  point  them  out  to  travelers  a good  way  off. 

“ Since  our  arrival  on  the  continent,  we  have  found  the  roads  regularly 
marked  in  equal  divisions;  but  instead  of  mile-stones  as  with  us,  strong  posts, 
about  seven  feet  high,  are  fixed  in  the  ground,  with  a board  having  characters 
stating  the  distance  from  the  principal  towns  and  cities.  There  are,  likewise, 
military  stations  placed  at  intervals  of  nine  Chinese  miles,  calculated  for  a number 
of  soldiers,  and  provided  with  a watch-tower  and  flag-staff,  whereon  they  occa- 
sionally hoist  signals,  so  that,  being  in  sight  of  each  other,  they  can  collect,  toge- 
ther a considerable  force,  in  case  of  invasion  or  disturbance,  without  much  loss 
of  time.” 


210 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


May, 


The  town  of  Suiki  '(fc  ijjjt  lies  0,1  ^ie  Pang-ting  shwui 
a small  stream  near  the  northern  part  of  the  peninsula, 
having  a post-house  called  Shih-mun  sin  ® n ill  at  its  mouth. 
The  district  of  Suiki  occupies  the  northern  part  of  the  department  of 
Luichau,  including  all  the  islands  on  either  shore,  and  affording  its 
inhabitants  great  facilities  for  communicating  with  the  adjoining  dis- 
tricts. Shih-ching  liien  I forms  part  of  Kauchau  fu 

iV»j  ttl  a large  prefecture  lying  along  the  shores  of  the  China  sea, 
between  St.  John’s  I.  and  Luichau ; and  occupies  the  whole  breadth 
of  the  department  northeast  from  the  sea  to  the  frontiers  of  Kwangsi. 
Its  chief  town  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  S&n-tcii  shan  — fcj  jJj, 
and  near  the  Kiii-chau  kiang  ^ JtJj'j  jX  or  Nine  Island  river,  a 
principal  branch  of  the  Lingluh  kiang,  jjj^  which  empties 
into  the  sea  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  peninsula.  The  magistrates 
of  the  town  of  Shih-ching  treated  the  foreigners  with  great  kindness. 


“ At  three  in  the  afternoon  we  descried  the  pagodas  of  Shihching  hien,  which 
place  we  reached  at  half-past  four,  and  were  immediately  conducted  to  the  ma- 
gistrate who,  after  asking  some  questions,  ordered  us  to  be  taken  to  a temple  for 
the  night.  The  city  of  Shihching  may  contain  about  70,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  an  extensive  range  of  hills,  on  the  summit  of  which 
its  walls  run  for  a considerable  distance,  and  within  them  are  several  groves  of 
pine-trees ; copses  of  various  other  trees  are  seen  within  the  walls,  besides 
tanks  and  gardens  for  the  cultivation  of  vegetables,  an  arrangement  common  to 
all  the  large  towns  and  cities  that  we  have  yet  seen. 

“ The  streets  of  this  town  are  rather  narrow,  but  clean,  and  generally  flagged, 
with  an  awning  overhead,  which  renders  them  cool  and  pleasant.  The  markets 
appeared  to  be  well  supplied  with  provisions  such  as  meat,  fish,  fruit,  and  vegeta- 
bles ; the  latter  are  in  great  perfection,  particularly  cabbage,  turnips,  and  lettuce, 
which  are  as  large  as  those  produced  in  England.  This  region  is  famous  for 
its  soft  sugar,  and  a peculiar  sort  of  oil  expressed  from  a nut  (ground-nut  ?), 
which  serves  the  inhabitants  for  culinary  and  various  other  purposes  : the  nut 
itself,  which  in  taste  resembles  the  filbert  of  England,  is  put  up  in  small  papers, 
each  containing  about  three  dozen,  and  sold  at  the  rate  of  one  cash  each.  In  the 
towns  of  China,  people  of  the  same  trade  live  together,  and  in  Shih  ching  we 
Baw  whole  streets  inhabited  by  manufacturers  and  venders  of  fire-works,  and 
others  who  sold  and  made  tinsel  : these  two  articles  were  exhibited  in  great 
quantity. 

“Jan.  22d. — At  eight  this  morning  we  received  a visit  from  a deputy  of 
the  district  magistrate,  who  inquired  particularly  respecting  the  loss  of  the 
Friendship,  and  seemed  anxious  to  ascertain  whether  she  had  foundered  at  sea, 
or  was  stranded  on  the  coast  of  Mwan-chau.  He  then  asked  several  questions 
relative  to  the  naval  and  military  power  of  the  English,  inquiring  into  their 
laws,  customs  and  manners,  with  singular  minuteness.  At  nine  o'clock  we  were 
sent  for  by  the  same  officer,  who,  finding  there  were  four  of  the  people  not  yet 
comb  up,  informed  us  we  could  not  proceed  until  they  arrived,  and  then  gave 
us  an1  invitation  to  dinner,  which,  of  course,  we  gladly  accepted,  ns  it  was  the 
first  mark  of  personal  respect  we  had  received  from  the  authorities  since  our  un- 
fortunate shipwreck  We  then  took  a walk  on  the  ramparts  of  the  town,  and 
from  that  portion  which  ha6  been  mentioned  as  running  over  the  hills,  we  had  a 
prospect  of  a fine,  level,  well  cultivated  country.  From  this  elevated  situation 
we  counted  seven  towns  and  villages,  at  a trifling  distance  from  each  other;  in 
the  southernmost  we  observed  a pagoda  nine  stories  high.  At  2 r.  m , having 


1849 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


249 


such  a phenomenon  as  these  solitary  rocks,  so  remote  too  from  any  mountain; 
perhaps  these  prodigious  masses  have  been  at  some  remote  period,  each  the 
nucleus  of  a hill,  in  which  case  they  must  have  been  below  the  surface,  and 
the  soil  being  gradually  washed  away  by  the  floods,  they  were  left  exposed  in 
their  present  situation.  In  the  evening,  we  hauled  the  boat  alongside  one  of 
these  huge  rocks,  and  made  fast  for  the  night. 

“HtA — At  daylight  we  hauled  out  of  the  cavern,  and  continued  tracking 
about  N.  E.  by.  N.,  the  river  growing  narrower  with  a coarse  gravelly  bottom. 
The  country  each  side  of  us  was  covered  with  beautiful,  extensive  fields  of 
wheat  and  barley  in  the  healthiest  condition,  also  many  groves  of  bamboo  and 
fruit  trees  interspersed.  The  same  chain  of  mountains  still  in  sight,  but 
nearer  than  before.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  passed  three-towns  and  five 
villages  ; also  several  lime-kilns,  where  we  observed  large  quantities  of  coal, 
used  for  the  calcination  of  the  carbonate.  Many  of  the  same  isolated  rocks 
stood  close  to  the  river’s  side,  and  at  a distance  had  the  appearance  of  grand 
and  magnificent  castles,  being  destitute  of  every  vestige  of  vegetation  except 
lichens.  These  massive  monuments  are  all  composed  of  dense  limestone,  and 
numbers  of  people  were  employed  in  breaking  off  fragments  intended  for  the 
kilns  which  are  erected  for  that  purpose.  At  four  p.  M.,  we  came  to  anchor 
abreast  a large  town  called  II wang-ni-hwdn  sz'.” 

This  town  of  Hwang-nl-hw&n  sz’  ||qf  JtJj^  j|p  p]  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  river  Moh-y&ng  lies  near  the  northern  border  of 
the  district,  and  the  road  to  the  West  River  lies  over  the  steep  range 
of  hills  that  divides  the  district  of  Yangchun  from  Shilling,  each 
peak  of  which  has  its  own  name.  These  mountains  produce  various 
sorts  of  wood  suitable  for  cabinet-ware,  such  as  rose  wood  and  aigle 
wood ; pheasants  and  pigeons  are  also  found  in  their  recesses.  Shi- 
lling hien  it  Aft  , at  which  the  party  arrived  after  crossing  the 
hills,  lies  on  the  Sin  kiting  & a small  branch  of  the  West 
river,  along  which  they  journeyed  after  leaving  that  town,  and  which 
is  deep  enough  for  boats  up  to  it.  It  is  observable  that  the  foreigners 
received  poorer  treatment  as  they  approached  Canton,  and  that  the 
opprobrious  term  by  which  they  are  known  in  the  provincial  city  has 
diffused  itself  through  all  those  places  to  which  its  direct  trade  has 
extended  : degrading  associations  can  not  but  be  necessarily  connected 
in  the  minds  of  the  people  with  the  constant  hearing  of  the  term  fan- 
kwei  by  which  foreigners  are  designated.  The  resting-place  between 
Sinhing  and  Cliluking  fu,  called  S/takc-cotv  by  our  traveler,  is  not  laid 
down  in  the  maps;  its  position  is  somewhere  on  the  Sin  kiting,  and 
its  true  name  is  perhaps  Sliaki  kau  & m a . though  this  a mere 
guess.  Proceeding  on  from  Ilw.ing-ni-hw.in,  the  narrative  mentions  the 
terracing,  as  if  it  had  not  previously  been  of  sufficient  extent  to  notice. 

11 9th. — At  daylight  we  left  the  boat,  and  passing  directly  through  the 
town,  continued  our  journey  about  northeast  on  tolerably  good  roads,  and 
through  a country  beautifully  varied  with  hill  and  dale,  all  well  cultivated, 
and  producing  wheat  ol  two  kinds,  with  barley,  sweet  potatoes,  and  tobacco; 
amidst  this  rich  prospect  the  eye  was  relieved  by  luxuriant  orchards  of  peach- 
trees,  with  several  groves  ot  pines  interspersed  at  irregular  intervals  The 
second  part  ot  our  route  lay  across  art  extensive  plain  of  paddv,  and  beyond  it 

VOL.  XVIII  NO  V.  32 


Trip  from  Human  to  Canton 


May, 


250 


we  came  to  the  most  tiresome  and  fatiguing  part  of  our  journey  hitherto,  across 
a continued  range  of  high  mountains,  over  wtiich,  however,  the  cares  of  culti- 
vation had  spread  the  mantle  of  plenty  from  the  base  to  the  very  summit,  in  a 
manner  and  with  a decoration  that  seems  peculiar  to  China.  These  elevated 
grounds  are  cut  into  stages  or  terraces,  so  as  to  allow  the  water  to  run  from 
one  to  another  in  gradual  succession  from  top  to  bottom,  a mode  of  cultivation 
which  must,  be  attended  with  great  labor,  and  may  be  fairly  considered  a strik- 
ing proof  of  Chinese  industry. 

“ In  the  course  of  this  day,  we  passed  through  four  large  towns  and  seven 
villages  In  one  of  the  former  we  counted  ninety  fish-ponds,  each  about 
thirty  feet  square,  surrounded  by  trees  and  a railing  of  bamboo.  We  likewise 
crossed  three  wooden  bridges  and  three  of  stone,  very  handsomely  arched 
At  half-past  five  in  the  evening,  we  halted  at  a resting-house,  the  situation  of 
which  was  truly  romantic,  standing  in  a deep  green  valley,  environed  on 
all  sides  by  high  mountains.  In  the  midst  of  this  valley,  runs  a stream  of 
pure  water  conducted  by  a curious  contrivance  of  large  bamboo  tubes,  in 
which  plugs  are  fixed  at  intervals  to  guide  the  flow;  in  the  differentapartments 
through  which  these  conduits  pass,  there  are  reservoirs  in  the  floor  to  receive 
the  water,  which  here  serves  the  purposes  of  bathing,  drinking,  cooking,  &c. 

“ I0f A.  — At  four  this  morning  we  set  out  by  moonlight,  and  continued  our 
harassing  journey  over  lofty,  craggy  mountains,  the  road  leading  generally  in 
a spiral  direction  over  the  declivities.  At  half  past  nine  we  arrived  at  the  city 
of  Shilling,  where  we  were  shown  a very  indifferent  place  to  sleep  in,  which 
we  instantly  rejected,  and  took  possession  of  a large  house  that  happened  to 
be  empty,  in  which  we  remained  about  half  an  hour,  when  we  were  conducted 
to  a commodious,  two  storied  building,  which  they  told  us  had  formerly 
been  a college.  The  walls  of  this  city  are  in  bad  repair ; their  height  may  be 
about  20  feet,  and  their  breadth  between  12  and  14  feet  There  are  no  embra- 
sures, and  the  loop-holes  are  at  least  six  feet  above  the  ramparts 

“ llrA.  — At  ten  this  morning  we  waited  on  the  magistrate,  and  were  offered 
28  cash  for  two  days’  supply,  which  we  refused  on  account  of  its  inadequacy  , 
we  were  then  presented  with  40  earh,  and  immediately  after  left  Sinhing, 
and  proceeded  N.  to  N.  E.,  through  a large  plain  of  rice  ground,  which  lay 
between  sterile  mountains,  on  which  groves  of  pine  and  bamboo  were  scatter- 
ed After  passing  the  abovementioned  plain,  the  country  assumed  a rugged, 
hilly  appearance,  but  the  valleys  were  well  cultivated,  producing  chiefly  sweet 
potatoes  and  mountain  rice.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  crossed  two  wooden 
bridges,  one  of  them  nearly  half  a mile  in  length;  and  passed  through  three 
to wns  and  several  villages.  At  five  in  the  afternoon,  having  walked  21)  miles, 
we  arrived  at  the  'own  of  Shake-cow,  situated  on  the  banks  of  a river  which 
empties  into  the  Si  kiang  : here  wc  saw  many  large  junks  taking  in  spars  of 
various  sizes. 

“12 th. — At  eight  this  morning  we  set  out  from  Shake  cow,  and  continued 
our  progress  to  the  N E.  on  very  indifferent  roads,  which  were,  in  fact,  no- 
thing better  than  mere  footways,  the  common  mode  of  traveling  hereabouts 
being  by  water.  The  country  was  beautifully  diversified  with  plains,  moun- 
tains, hills,  and  dales,  all  in  general  well  cultivated,  interspersed  loo  with 
numerous  hamlets  and  villas,  in  romantic  situations ; the  gardens  belonging 
to  the  latter  appeared  to  be  well  stocked  with  roses,  lilies,  pinks,  and  various 
other  ornamental  flowers.  At  noon  on  halting  at  an  eating-house  to  take  3ome. 
refreshment,  we  fell  in  with  the  Hainanese  pugilist ; the  poor  fellow  was 
very  glad  to  see  us,  and  with  perfect  cordiality  reminded  us  of  his  unfortunate 
experiment  in  his  favorite  science,  and  with  much  humor  depicted  his  recol- 
lection of  that  occurrence  He  informed  us  that  he  was  on  his  w ay  to  Can 
ton  , and  previous  to  parting,  insisted  on  treating  us  to  a cup  of  samshoo,  and 
our  acceptance  of  the  compliment  appeared  to  afford  him  much  gratification  " 

The  motley  party  of  mariners,  prisoners  and  pirates,  had  now  arrived 
at  its  last  stage.  Chauking  ffi  was  the  capital  of  the  province  for  a 
long  tune,  and  still  ranks  next  to  Canton  in  importance ; its  position 


1849. 


Trip  from  Hat  nan  to  Canton 


251 


near  the  confluence  of  three  streams,  and  upon  the  banks  of  the  We6  t 
river,  which  brings  all  the  traffic  of  Kvvlngsi  going  eastward  past  its 
port,  combine  to  render  it  the  depot  for  much  of  the  trade  of  the 
western  part  of  this  province.  Near  the  banks  is  a lofty  building 
called  Yueh-kiing  lau  Rjfcjn  erected  to  overlook  the  river,  and 
announce  the  approach  of  official  or  other  boats ; the  house  itself  is 
used  as  a lodging-place  by  officers  passing  up  and  down.  On  the 
north  of  the  city  is  an  extensive  monastery  of  the  Budhists  called 
Pau-yueh  t&i  ; and  on  its  east,  near  the  outlet  of  a small 

lake,  is  an  immense  reservoir  called  Yoh-lung  tau  used 

to  retain  the  water  at  high  tides  for  purposes  of  irrigation.  East  of 
this  city  the  channel  is  compressed  between  a range  of  hills  called 
Ling-y5ng  liiah  ^ |1^,  and  the  rapidity  of  the  current  at  this 
point  proves  a formidable  obstacle  to  boats  ascending  the  river  The 
stay  of  the  party  was  too  short  at  this,  or  any  of  the  places  passed 
through,  to  allow  more  than  a passing  glance ; we  are  therefore  inform- 
ed of  little  else  than  their  personal  adventures. 

“ In  the  course  of  tins  day  we  passed  through  eight  towns  and  villages,  cross- 
ed  three  rivers  and  two  bridges,  and  at  five  in  the  afternoon,  after  walking  25 
miles,  came  to  the  city  of  Chauking,  a place  of  considerable  importance  and 
extent,  it  requiring  exactly  an  hour  and  fifteen  minutes  to  traverse  the  suburb* 
only,  during  which  time  we  never  stopped  We  waited  on  the  governor,  but 
were  obliged  to  remain  for  an  hour  before  we  were  admitted  to  an  audience, 
and  the  interval  was  a scene  of  unceasing  annoyance,  the  multitude  sur 
rounding  us  en  masse , pestering  our  patience  with  their  importunate  cu- 
riosity, and  incommoding  us  with  their  intrusive  pressure  ; yet  the  panora- 
mic effect  was  ludicrous  in  the  extreme,  and  we  were,  on  our  side,  as  w ell  en- 
tertained in  surveying  iheir  sallow  oval  fronts,  as  they  peered  with  half-cloaed 
eyes,  in  astonished  gaze  upon  our  motley  group.  At  half  past  six  in  the  even- 
ing we  were  conducted  to  a large  unoccupied  house,  which  had  been,  as  we 
supposed,  at  one  time  a printing-office,  for  there  lay  a vast  quantity  of  wooden 
blocks,  piled  up  in  heaps  in  the  different  apartments.  In  the  evening,  the 
governor  sent  a quantity  of  rice  congee,  to  the  valuable  amount  of  one  Spanish 
dollar,  which  we  were  given  to  understand  was  to  be  divided  without  dis- 
tinction between  the  whole  of  our  party  ; but  this  want  of  personal  respect 
appeared  by  no  means  a matter  for  censure,  nor  could  we  hope  to  receive  at 
the  hands  of  every  person  in  office,  such  kindness  as  we  had  experienced  at 
Shihching. 

“ The  city  of  Chauking  is  very  populous,  and  from  the  number  of  boats  and 
vessels  we  saw  on  the  river,  must  be  a place  of  considerable  trade  The  walls 
were  in  good  repair,  about  30  feet  thick  and  35  high,  built  of  brick  and  stone, 
hut  calculated,  it  would  seem,  for  matchlocks  and  bows  only,  there  being  no- 
thing but  loop-holes  in  the  parapet.  There  were  also,  as  usual,  one  nr  two 
useless  old  guns  in  each  gateway.  At  a distance  of  about  three  miles  from  this 
capital  stand  eight  very  lofly  pagodas,  erected  in  the  most  elevated  situations, 
and  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from  each  other  they  can  be  seen  a great  way 
oft' in  approaching  from  the  westward  These  edifices  are  usually  met  near 
large  towns  and  cities,  and  we  could  somewhat  calculate  the  proportionate  size 
of  each,  by  the  number  of  pagodas  in  its  vicinity.  The  houses  of  Ch&uking 
are,  as  usual,  built  of  brick,  and  mostly  two  stories  high  The  bazars  appeared 
abundantly  supplied  with  all  kinds  of  provisions,  such  as  meat,  fuh,  fruit,  and 
vegetables 


252 


May, 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton. 


“l3lA. — At  one  o clock  p M.  having  received  each  30  cash,  we  left  Chin- 
king, embarking  in  three  boats,  and  steered  east  about  45  miles.  The  river 
appeared  pretty  deep  and  broad  for  this  distance,  and  the  country  each  aide 
was  much  diversified,  being  partly  high  uncultivated  mountains,  and  partly 
fine  level  plains,  producing  wheat  and  barley  in  abundance.  We  passed 
several  large  towns  and  villages,  also  several  boats  laden  with  various  sorts  of 
goods,  and  apparently  bound  to  the  eastward.” 


From  Chauking,  an  easy  sail  carried  the  party  to  Sanshwui  hien 
, the  western  district  of  Kwfkngchau  fit,  whose  chief  town 
lies  not  far  from  the  confluence  of  the  Peh  ki  5ng  or  North 


river  with  the  West  river.  The  mart  of  Si-nan  chin 
or  Si-nSn  hii  h ® si  is  the  residence  of  a deputy  of  the  district 
magistrate,  and  a town  of  some  trade  and  manufactures;  west  of  it 
on  the  river’s  bank  is  a stopping-place  for  the  reception  of  officers 
coming  to  or  from  Canton,  called  Hing-tai  fir  S i.  e.  Traveling 
Terrace.  Passing  on  down  the  river  the  traveler  comes  to  Kin-li  hii 
Shin-ngan  sz’  , and  other  market-towns,  till 

he  arrives  at  Td-tsung  ^ yj|j,  the  western  part  of  FuhshAn,  from 
whence  a short  journey  along  the  river,  passing  by  Hifi-kSu 
Hwangchuh-ki  ^ |Ij^  (the  scene  of  the  sad  tragedy  of  Dec.  6th 
1847),  and  lastly  Ta-tung-kau  ;'jc,  near  the  Fa  Ti,  he 

reaches  Canton. 


“ 14 th. — At  a little  after  daylight  we  left  the  boats,  and  about  eight  the  same 
morning  arrived  at  the  city  of  Sanshwui,  where  we  remained  for  the  night  in 
very  indifferent  quarters.  Here  we  waited  on  the  governor,  and  in  the  hall 
of  audience,  as  it  is  called,  observed  a plan  of  the  city  painted  upon  the  wall* 
in  tolerable  neatness  of  execution.  This  city  appears  to  be  of  great  antiquit  v, 
one  half  of  it  at  least,  as  we  judged,  being  now  in  ruins,  and  the  houses 
that  remain  standing  in  a very  decayed  stale.  The  walls  are  in  pretty  good 
repair,  about  20  feet  high  by  14  thick,  with  numerous  embrasures  and  loop- 
holes for  small  arms  and  bows  Here  we  saw  a large  magazine  for  grain  it 
■was  a quadrangular  building  about  350  feet  each  way,  lined  on  the  outside 
with  plank,  and  on  the  whole  appeared  well  adapted  for  the  intended  purpose 
Such  depots  for  corn,  they  now  tell  us,  are  common  everywhere,  yet  except 
in  this  instance  they  have  hitherto  escaped  our  notice.  In  the  course  of  this 
day  we  met  several  dignitaries  traveling  in  handsome  sedans  made  of  bam- 
boo, very  light  and  extremely  convenient ; they  were  of  various  forms  and 
sizes,  anil  calculated  for  either  hot  or  cold  weather. 

“ 15/A. — At  daylight  this  morning  I observed  oue  of  the  poor  Cochinchinese 
dead  in  his  prison  cage,  though  still  chained  as  before;  his  body  was  quite  con- 
tracted and  bent  almost  double.  ‘Happy  unfortunate thought  I;  ‘he  is 
relieved,  poor  wretch,  from  all  his  sufferings,  which  must  have  been  severe, 
•both  from  his  apprehension  of  an  ignominious  death,  and  his  confined  situa- 
tion ever  since  our  departure  from  KiungshAn  ; for  I do  not  believe  that  either 
he  or  any  of  the  others  have  been  once  allowed  to  quit  their  bamboo  prisons 
fr  m that  period  upon  any  occasion  whatever.’  At  one  o'clock,  p m , having 
each  received  30  cash  we  embarked  in  boats,  and  continued  our  course  to 
the  eastward  ; the  river  is  here  pretty  broad,  and  the  country  on  each  side, 
level  and  extremely  well  cultivated,  producing  wheat,  rice,  and  barley.  In 
the  course  of  this  day  we  paseed  many  large  rafts  of  pine-spars,  likewise  num- 


1849. 


Trip  from  Hainan  to  Canton.  25:3 

bera  of  boats  of  various  forms  and  sires,  going  both  up  and  down  the  river 
At  half-past  live  we  passed  SinAn  chin,  a town  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  contain- 
ing, they  say,  150,000  inhabitants  ; and  from  the  number  of  vessels  we  saw 
here  loading,  it  must  be  a place  of  great  trade  and  consequence  Most  of  the 
houses  in  Siniin  are  two  stories  high,  with  small  balconies  painted  green,  which 
give  them  a neat  and  cheerlul  appearance. 

“ 16t/i. — We  continued  steering  this  day  from  E.  to  N.  N.  E.  The  country 
each  side  was  low,  level,  and  in  a high  state  of  cultivation,  studded,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  with  towns,  villages,  and  hamlets.  The  boats  and  rafts  of 
pine-spars  became  more  numerous  every  mile  we  advanced  : some  of  the  latter 
were  several  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  frequently  extended  nearly  quite 
across  the  river.  Many  of  these  spars  were  large  enough  for  the  lower  masts 
of  a ship  of  a thousand  tons  burden.  At  eight  this  morning,  we  entered  the 
city  of  Fuhshdn,  which  is  a place  of  astonishing  magnitude  and  population,  and 
is  said  to  contain  a million  of  inhabitants,  and  this  number,  is  not,  in  my  opinion, 
exaggerated.  It  took  us  exactly  eight  hours  and  a half  to  pass  through  it  from 
west  to  east.  The  houses  are  built  of  brick,  and  mostly  two  stories  high,  having 
neat  little  balconies,  which  being  often  filled  with  flower-pots  and  evergreens, 
formed  a pleasing  coup  d'ceil : many  of  the  houses  were  furnished  with  glass 
windows,  and  in  many  other  respects  bore  a strong  resemblance  to  European 
dwellings. 

“ The  streets  resounded  with  the  clatter  and  noise  of  numerous  artificers  and 
mechanics ; indeed,  the  general  bustle  and  activity  that  prevails  in  Fuhshan 
clearly  denote  its  being  a city  of  very  great  trade  and  commercial  importance. 
Here  the  river,  for  many  miles,  was  covered  with  boats  of  various  descriptions, 
only  a passage  in  the  middle  just  sufficient  for  two  boats  to  go  abreast  being  left 
open.  At  half-past  four  we  passed  its  easternmost  skirts  or  suburbs,  and  at  five 
in  the  evening  had  the  pleasure  to  descry  the  British  flag  waving  proudly  over  the 
English  factory  at  Canton.  The  pleasing  sight  diffused  a general  joy  and  satisfac- 
tion through  the  party  ; we  now  consoled  ourselves  with  the  hopes  of  some 
peace  and  rest,  of  which  we  stood  much  in  need,  for  latterly  most  of  us  had 
endured  great  pain  and  inconvenience  from  our  limbs  becoming  stiff  and  sore. 

“ At  a little  before  six  we  landed  abreast  of  the  French  hong,  and  waited  on 
Mr.  Drummond,  the  chief  supercargo  of  the  East  India  Company,  to  report  our 
arrival  and  loss  of  the  vessel,  and  such  circumstances  of  our  unfortunate  expedi- 
tion as  it  was  necessary  he  should  be  informed  of.  As  for  myself,  I preferred 
living  with  my  friend  Mr.  Berry,  who  had  the  goodness  to  offer  me  a room  in 
his  house,  where  every  comfort  of  life  was  most  generously  provided. 

“ Since  our  departure  from  Mwan  chau,  it  may  be  mentioned,  by  way  of  reca- 
pitulation, that  toe  passed  through  two  hundred  and  fifty-six  towns  and  villages , 
and  ttcenty  walled  cities. 

“ Canton,  February  17th,  1820.” 

The  journey  of  32  days  from  Sii-wan  hien  to  Canton  described  in 
the  foregoing  itinerary  was  taken  through  a very  fertile  and  populous 
region,  and  the  treatment  received  by  the  crew  of  the  Friendship 
from  the  hands  of  officers  and  people  during  the  route  is  creditable  to 
their  humanity.  The  crews  of  the  Bee,  captain  Warden,  lost  in  1832, 
of  the  Sunda  in  1839 ; and  of  other  ships  on  this  coast,  including  that 
of  the  war  steamer  Madagascar  lost  in  time  of  hostilities,  received 
kind  treatment,  and  if  they  had  enjoyed  as  good  means  of  communica- 
tion as  were  possessed  in  this  case,  their  intercourse  would  probably 
have  been  equally  frank 


254 


Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucius 


May, 


Aut.  II.  Notice  of  the  Chi-shing  \Pien  Nien-shi  Ki,  or  Annals 
and  Genealogy  of  the  Most  Holy  Sage,  with  a translation  of  the 
Preface  of  the  editor  K’ung  Ckau-hwan,  a member  of  the  Confu- 
cian  family. 

The  notices  of  Confucius,  given  in  former  volumes  of  the  Repository,* 
may  have  created  in  the  minds  of  others,  as  they  have  in  our  own,  a 
strong  desire  to  become  more  intimately  acquainted  with  the  history, 
the  principles,  and  the  actions  of  that  man,  who  has  been  placed  on 
a parity  with  heaven,  who  with  heaven  and  earth  forms  a trinity,  and 
to  whom,  as  God,  the  emperor  of  China,  with  all  his  ministers  and  all 
the  magistrates  of  this  people,  pay  divine  homage.  For  the  study  of 
the  life  and  times  of  this  deified  mortal,  we  know  of  no  work  that  af- 
fords us  so  good  an  introduction  as  this  one.  The  whole  title  is  Chi- 
shing  Pien  Nien-shi  Ki,  M H S®  It  $£•  “ Annals  and  Ge- 
nealogy of  the  most  Holy  Sage,”  12  vols.,  small  octavo.  It  was  first 
published  about  a century  ago,  in  the  eaVly  part  of  the  reign  of  the 
emperor  Kienlung.  The  editor,  K’ung  Ch&u-hwAn  mm  , was 
a descendant  of  the  sage  in  the  seventy-first  generation,  and  bore  the 
hereditary  title  of  Grand  Duke.  Its  authors  were  Messrs.  Li 
Sungting  ^ ^ ,*=£»  and  Hw&ng  Hifiufung  j|^,  both  men 

of  talents  and  erudition.  Each  of  these  individuals  prepared  a 
preface,  in  which  they  have  given  us,  in  detail,  an  account  of  the 
means  they  enjoyed  and  their  advantages  for  performing  their  task  ; 
and  they  have  doubtless  brought  together,  in  their  Annals,  all  the 
important  facts  that  bear  on  the  subject.  The  editor  makes  honora- 
ble mention  of  the  authors  in  his  Preface,  which  we  here  introduce. 

Preface  to  the  Annals  by  K'ung  Chauhwan. 

“ To  adore  heaven  and  reverence  his  ancestors  is  man’s  chief  end  : hence 
every  one,  from  the  son  of  heaven  to  the  common  people,  must  be  careful 
always  to  observe  this,  and  unceasingly  offer  the  appropriate  sacrifices; 
especially  must  this  be  done  by  us  whose  Ancestor  and  Heaven  are  one. 

“ Endowed  by  heaven  with  virtue  and  holiness,  from  his  birth  he  received 
the  doctrines  of  the  ancient  sages,  and  transmitted  them  to  the  ten  thousand 
generations  of  those  who  were  to  follow  him ; so  that  emperors,  kings, 
ministers,  magistrates,  scholars,  and  people,  by  employing  these  doctrines  in 
the  government  of  the  empire,  can  govern  it  perfectly  ; by  employing  them 
in  the  regulation  of  families,  can  regulate  them  completely  ; and  by  employ- 
ing them  in  the  cultivation  of  personal  virtue,  can  carry  it  ta  perfection. 


* Notices  of  Confucius  are  to  be  found  in  the  former  volumes  of  theReposi- 
tory  see  Vol  I pp  26-),  4:tN,  502 ; Vol  111  p 99 , Vol  VI  p 445;  Vol  X 


1849 


Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucius  ' ~55 

“Accordingly,  from  the  glorious  Han  dynasty  downwards,  the  emperors 
and  kings  have  never  ceased  to  increase  their  reverence  and  homage  : some 
have  offered  to  him  the  highest  sacrifices,  and  granted  hereditary  titles  to 
hts  descendants  ; some  have  established  schools,  and  appointed  officers  for 
the  instruction  of  his  family  ; some  have  gathered  its  members,  and  entertain- 
ed them  with  feasts  ; others  of  the  emperors  have  condescended  to  come  in 
person  to  our  villa ; and  others  have  prepared  ceremonial  utensils  to  adoi  n 
the  tomb  and  the  temples  of  our  ancestor.  As  to  posthumous  titles,  royal 
robes  and  diadems,  armorial  ensigns,  music  and  dances, sceptres  and  embroider- 
ed vestments,  &c.,  the  more  remote  the  period,  the  more  abundant  these;so  that 
now,  in  the  present  dynasty,  the  imperial  ordinances,  decreed  for  the  purpose 
of  paying  reverence  and  homage  to  our  ancestor,  far  exceed  those  of  all 
former  dynasties,  and  are  such  as  never  existed  in  all  antiquity.  The  high 
ministers  of  state  and  the  men  of  distinguished  learning,  who  have  done  him 
reverence  and  homage,  have  likewise  become  more  and  more  numerous  in 
each  succeeding  generation. 

“One  of  the  sage’s  own  pupils,  Tsai  Yu,  used  to  say,  The  excellent  qua- 
lities (the  talents  and  vritues)  of  his  master  far  exceeded  those  of  the  an- 
cient sovereigns  Yau  and  Shun.  Another  of  his  disciples,  Tsz’  Kung,  used 
to  remark,  Of  human  beings  born,  there  never  was  his  like.  Yujoh  also  used 
to  say,  His  master  surpassed  all  of  his  kind,  and  was  the  chiefest  of  hw 
race.  After  the  death  of  our  ancestor,  this  disciple  Yiijoh  collected  the 
“ Conversations  ” of  his  master  regarding  the  kingdoms  of  Lu  and  Tsi,  and 
also  his  “ Family  Sayings.”  Another  disciple,  the  philosopher  Tsang,  com- 
piled (or  wrote  from  what  his  master  had  taught  him)  the  “ Treatise  on  Fi- 
lial Duty”  and  the  “ Superior  Lessons.” 

“ By  recording  his  sayings  in  this  way,  his  disciples  manifested  their  pro- 
found reverence  for  their  master.  After  this  Tsz’sz’,  of  the  third  generation 
of  our  ancestors,  compiled  [in  like  manner]  the  “Due  Medium.”  Tsz’  Yii, 
of  the  ninth  generation,  compiled  the  “Confucian  Assemblies.”  Tsz’  Kwoh 
of  the  eleventh  generation,  wrote  a commentary  on  the  “ Dialogues”  of  the 
sage,  and  also  “ Memoirs  on  the  Book  of  Records,”  and  on  the  “Trea- 
tise about  Filial  Duty.”  Wankii,  of  the  twentieth  generation,  wrote  five 
and  twenty  books  [on  various  subjects].  Chungtah,  of  the  thirty-second 
generation,  compiled  and  edited  the  work  called  “The  True  Meaning  of  the 
Five  Classics.” 

“ Besides  these,  our  ancestor  Tingkwang  wrote  the  “Genealogy  of  the  Civic 
Kmg,”  “ Miscellaneous  Records  of  our  Eastern  House,”  “ Important  Selections 
from  the  Confucian  Hall,”  “Confucian  Annals,”  “True  Record  of  the  Sage,” 
&,c.  These  works  have  all  been  prepared  by  us,  his  descendants,  in  order  to 
pay  reverence  and  homage  to  our  holy  ancestor,  and  to  reveal  and  make 
manifest  the  great  doctrines  which  he  taught. 

“ Since  the  time  when  Ngai,  the  duke  of  Lu,  wrote  Ins  “ Eulogy,"  in 
praise  of  the  sage,  and  Lunginun  edited  Ins  “ History,”  a part  of  the  Records 
of  Illustrious  Families,  all  the  philosophers  and  authors,  who  have  risen 
in  successive  generations,  have  done  him  reverence,  and  very  many  have 


•256 


Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucius. 


May, 


written  commentaries  on,  and  edited  his  works.  Among  this  great  number 
of  editors  and  authors,  there  must  have  been  a diversity  in  the  traditions  and 
reports  which  they  obtained  in  their  researches,  and  consequently  a diversity 
in  their  records.  Each,  entertaining  his  own  views  and  opinions,  it  were  to 
be  expected  that  there  would  be  some,  who,  by  yielding  too  easily  to  false 
reports,  would  misrepresent  or  malign  his  character.  From  all  such  our 
holy  ancestor  could  receive  no  harm.  Even  while  the  sage  was  alive,  an 
instance  of  this  malignity  occurred  in  the  person  of  one  Shuh-siuen  Wu- 
siiuh;  but  Twan-muh,  a disciple  of  our  ancestor,  deemed  him  unworthy  of 
notice,  confident  that  his  hatred  would  recoil  upon  himself  and  prove  his 
utter  ruin.  How  much  more  hopeless  is  the  case  of  those  maligners  who 
have  risen  up  in  later  times.  The  more  modern  commentators  and  authors 
who  have  made  our  ancestor  the  subject  of  their  discourse,  are  very  nu- 
merous ; but  having  exhibited  a great  diversity  of  sentiment  and  method  in 
this  writing,  they  need  not  here  be  brought  into  notice,  nor  their  work:* 
enumerated  in  detail. 

“ Suffice  it  to  say,  the  Genealogy  of  our  family,  written  by  Sz’ma  Tsien, 
*hat  by  Wangsuh,  and  that  by  Hung  Hingtsu,  all  closed  with  the  sage,  and 
contained  no  notices  of  the  generations  that  came  after  him.  The  Memoir 
written  by  Hwang  Kungchi  brought  down  the  history  to  the  forty-second 
generation.  A supplementary  work,  giving  the  Genealogies  of  K’iuehli, 
continued  them  on  to  the  forty-ninth  generation.  The  Memoirs  of  his 
disciples  contained  in  the  Historical  Records,  and  the  list  of  pupils  given  by 
Ching  Yuen,  are  limited  to  those  who  attended  on  the  instructions  of  the 
sage,  and  do  not  embrace  notices  of  any  others. 

In  the  work  called  The  Annals  and  Genealogy  of  the  Most  Holy  Sage, 
extending  from  his  birth  to  his  death,  and  from  one  generation  to  another, 
even  till  the  present  time,  everything  is  duly  recorded.  There  is  no  other 
work  like  it.  In  this  are  contained  also  notices  of  all  his  disciples.  Its  au- 
thors were  Messrs.  Li  and  Hwang.  The  first  was  also  called  Chioh,  and 
styled  Sungting,  a native  of  Wu-liii  in  Kiang-tsu.  Having  been  an  assistant 
editor  in  preparing  a large  collection  of  books,  maps,  and  drawings,  both 
ancient  and  modern,  and  having  extensively  read  works  on  history,  he  was 
well  fitted  for  this  task.  The  second  was  otherwise  called  Ching,  and  styled 
Hiaufung.  He  was  a fellow-student  of  Li’s,  from  his  youth  devoted  to 
books,  and  was  early  distinguished  for  his  learning.  Both  occupied  many 
tens  of  years  in  diligent  research,  examined  tens  of  thousands  of  volumes^ 
and  accomplished  their  task  with  indefatigable  and  long  continued  zeal  and 
efforts,  sparing  neither  time  nor  strength. 

“ It  was  in  a certain  year,  denoted  yin-suh  in  the  cycle  of  sixty,  while  my 
father  was  yet  alive,  that  these  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Li  and  Hwang,  sent  him 
several  volumes  of  their  new  work,  to  prepare  for  it  a preface.  On  the 
perusal  thereof  he  was  exceedingly  delighted  with  the  work,  and  wished 
to  have  it  published,  but  in  consequence  of  its  being  unfinished,  this  was  not 
done.  Six  years  afterwards,  one  of  the  gentlemen,  Mr.  Li.  brought  me  a com- 
plete copy  at  K'luchli  On  looking  it  over,  I was  exceedingly,  taken  with  it 


1849 


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Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucivs. 

and  though  but  a youth,  and  fearful  lest  1 might  not  be  able  to  perform  my  ta,i1% 
yet  1 dared  not  leave  une3sayed  the  work  which  my  father  wished  to  accom- 
plish. And  not  I alone  was  pleased ; but  of  the  descendants  of  the  sage 
there  was  not  one  in  our  whole  family,  who  after  having  seen  the  work,  did 
not  leap  for  joy,  and  desire  that  it  might  be  completed  and  published.  Nor  do 
our  own  family,  the  descendants  of  the  sage,  alone  desire  the  completion  of 
this  work ; I know  that  all  the  men  in  the  empire,  who  have  read  the  writ- 
ings of  the  most  holy  Sage,  will,  on  beholding  this  new  work,  inexpressibly 
rejoice.  And  why?  Because  in  all  the  empire  there  is  not  one  who  does  not 
reverence  the  most  holy  Sage.  For  from  remote  antiquity  to  the  present 
time,  although  the  emperors  and  kings  in  offering  their  praises  and  homage, 
and  the  scholars  and  common  people  in  expressing  their  profound  adoration, 
have  paid  homage  to  the  most  holy  Sage  in  a diversity  of  ways,  yet  they 
have  all  done  it  with  one  heart.  How  then  can  it  be  said  that  the  homage 
and  adoration  paid  by  authors  proceeds  from  a heart  differing  from  that  of  all 
other  people  in  the  empire  ? 

Tsz’kung  of  old  said,  It  were  as  impossible  to  equal  my  master,  as  it 
is  to  scale  the  heavens  with  a ladder.  In  the  Due  Medium  it  is  said, 
The  doctrines  of  the  sage,  in  sublimity  tower  aloft  to  the  heavens. 
Among  the  expressions  of  praise  and  reverence,  uttered  by  men  of  more 
modern  times,  are  these,  “He  is  equal  to  heaven”  (on  parity  with  heaven); 
“ He  is  triune  with  heaven  ” (ir^,  heaven,  earth,  and  Confucius  form  a 
trinity);  “He  is  the  same  as  heaven;”  thus,  according  to  these  expressions, 
our  holy  ancestor  was  Heaven. ' Hence  I said,  “He  and  heaven  are  one 
and  “ To  reverence  uur  ancestor  is  to  adore  heaven.”  If,  then,  in  all  the 
empire,  there  be  none  who  do  not  reverence  their  own  ancestors  and  adore 
heaven : how  much  more  should  this  be  done  by  us  who  are  the  descendants 
of  the  sage ! Thus  far  is  my  preface.” 

The  Confucian  editor,  in  the  foregoing  preface,  has  claimed  for  his 
great  ancestor,  honors  supreme  and  divine  ; — with  what  justice  need 
not  be  said  to  a Christian  reader,  for  our  present  purpose  is  only  to  note 
what  are  the  views  entertained,  and  actions  exhibited,  by  the  Chinese. 
The  editor  is  very  explicit  in  his  statements,  laying  it  down  as  a 
fundamental  principle — one  to  which  the  whole  Confucian  school, 
nay,  all  China  will  heartily  subscribe — that  it  is  man’s  chief  end  to 
adore  heaven  and  reverence  his  ancestors.  It  has  been  remarked,  as  a 
religious  dogma  of  the  Chinese,  that  “like  must  worship  like.”  How 
far  practice  accords  with  this  theory  we  are  not  able  to  say.  By  law 
and  immemorial  usage,  the  “ son  of  heaven,”  the  emperor,  must  wor- 
ship heaven  ; the  same  honor  and  the  same  reverence  w hich  he  pays 
to  heaven  he  must  pay  to  his  ancestors.  More  than  this  is  required : 
according  to  the  Ritual  adopted  by  the  monarchs  of  the  ruling 
dynasty,  heaven,  earth,  and  ancestors,  are  placed  on  a parity,  as  those 
to  w'hom  equal  and  the  highest  religious  worship  are  due.  Our  editor 

33 


VOL  XVIII  NO  V 


258 


Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucius. 


Mat, 


iiiung  Ch'tuhvvan  adopts  this  as  a general  principle;  and  then,  assum- 


— *,  “ is  one  with  heaven,”  claims  for  him  the  highest  religious  wor- 
ship; placing  the  sage  on  an  equality  with  Heaven  and  Earth,  he 
claims  and  urges,  in  behalf  of  the  deified  man,  the  same  reverence 
and  homage  that  the  monarchs  pay  to  heaven  and  earth. 

Every  member  of  the  Confucian  school — and  we  ought  to  say, 
perhaps,  every  child  in  China, — excepting  the  few  whose  parents  have 
embraced  Christianity,  is  taught  to  worship  his  own  ancestors.  “ Like 
must  worship  like.”  But  to  the  deified  philosopher,  not  only  must  all 
his  descendants  pay  religious  worship ; but  this  must  also  be  done — 
and  is  done  — by  the  emperor,  his  ministers,  and  all  his  deputies. 
In  every  one  of  the  1500  districts  in  the  empire,  there  is  a temple 
dedicated  to  Confucius,  in  each  of  which  in  spring  and  autumn, 
the  local  magistrates  must  offer  prayers  and  sacrifices,  such  as  are 
offered  to  heaven  and  earth.  On  these  occasions,  we  have  seen  a 
bullock,  with  goats,  pigs,  &.C.,  &. c.,  duly  prepared,  laid  before  the 
altars ; the  magistrates  then,  with  great  formality,  performed  their 
devotions,  kneeling,  bowing,  and  rehearsing  their  prayers;  these  ended 
they  retired,  and  “the  great  sacrifices,”  the  bullock,  &,c.,  were  removed 
and  cut  to  pieces  and  distributed  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  live  in  or 
about  the  temple.  Thus  annually,  on  these  two  state  occasions,  the 
“shepherds  of  the  people”  go  forth  and  lead  on  the  devotions;  and  in 
their  official  capacities,  offer  to  a deified  mortal  that  worship  which  is 
due  only  to  Jehovah.  They  honor  the  man,  not  as  mere  man,  but  they 
honor  him  as  a god;  as  they  honor  Heaven,  so  they  honor  Confucius 
— worshiping  them  both  as  divine  beings. 

Throughout  all  this  land,  the  members  of  every  clan  and  of  every 
family,  so  far  as  they  are  able,  perform  in  a similar  manner  their 
devotions,  offering  at  the  tombs  and  in  the  temples  of  their  ancestors 
religious  worship.  Like  must  worship  like.  No  matter  how  poor, 
all  must  perform  this  divine  service ; in  the  language  of  our  Confu- 
cian editor,  “ every  one,  from  the  son  of  heaven  to  the  common  peo- 
ple, must  be  careful  always  to  observe  this,  and  unceasingly  [offer  to 
their  deified  ancestors]  the  appropriate  sacrifices.” 

One  fact  more  must  be  noticed  here.  Children  are  trained  up  in 
China  to  worship  this  deified  mortal.  It  is  not  merely  his  manes,  or 
the  dust  of  his  mortal  body  that  they  worship,  nor  is  it  merely  his 
ghost  or  his  spirit;  but  it  is  Confucius  himself,  as  they  fancy,  that 
person  who  once  lived  and  taught  and  wrote,  and  who  is  now  elevated 


ing  that  his  great  ancestor,  Confucius,  yu  t'ien  wei  yih  £s! 


“to  pair  with  heaven;”  it  is  that  deified  mortal  the 


1849 


Notice  of  the  Annals  of  Confucius 


259 


children  are  here  trained  up  to  reverence  and  adore.  When  they 
repair  to  school  to  study  the  writings  of  the  sage,  they  are  there  re- 
quired to  pay  him  religious  homage.  Men  may  call  it  what  they 
please — sage-worship,  hero-worship , demonolair y , pneumutolatry , or 
aught  else;  the  thing  itself  remains.  That  thing  is  the  offering  of 
religious  homage  to  a deified  mortal,  which  we  believe  to  be  IDOLA- 
TRY, than  which  no  sin  can  be  more  heinous  in  the  sight  of  a jealous 
God,  and  in  China  none  is  more  common,  more  universal. 

This  is  Confucianism ; and  in  thus  elevating  men  to  the  rank  of  gods, 
and  worshiping  them  as  gods — even  as  they  worship  heaven,  their 
Shangti,  their  high  ruler — the  literati  of  China  and  all  the  people 
glory.  The  emperors,  it  is  true,  have  tried  to  monopolize  the  worship 
of  heaven,  and  have  declared  it  treason  for  the  people  to  perform  this 
high  service.  Still  they  sometimes  do  it;  and,  like  their  rulers,  pray 
to  heaven  and  to  earth.  And  they  glory  in  this.  They  glory  in 
multiplying  their  prayers  and  their  sacrifices,  and  in  their  encroach- 
ment on  the  imperial  prerogative. 

In  this  they  do  not,  indeed,  differ  very  greatly  from  other  idolatrous 
nations,  for  it  is  characteristic  of  human  nature,  when  it  has  placed 
other  gods  before  the  True  One,  first  to  deify  his  works  in  the  firma- 
ment above,  and  the  earth  beneath;  and  then,  falling  a step  lower,  to 
impersonate  its  own  lusts  and  appetites  in  setting  up  for  gods  men 
and  women  of  like  passions  with  itself,  whom  it  trusts  to  and  petitions 
for  favors ; but  the  Chinese  exhibit  their  idolatry  divested  of  all  the 
imaginative,  artistic,  and  poetical,  embellishments  which  rendered  it 
so  bewitching  to  the  minds  and  senses  of  the  old  Greeks,  Egyp- 
tians, and  other  pagan  nations  of  the  West,  and  reduced  to  the  cold 
formality,  heartless  observances,  and  jejune  nonsense,  well  befitting  such 
vacuities.  If  it  had  not  been  for  the  natural  feeling  infused  into  the 
public  faith  by  the  ancestral  worship,  we  sometimes  think  the  Chinese 
character  and  nation  would  long  ago  have  sunk  to  a level  with  the 
savages  of  Siberia  : if  it  had  not  been  for  the  consonance  of  the  teach- 
ings of  the  school  of  Confucius,  with  this  powerful  impulse  of  human 
nature,  we  dare  say  his  name  would  never  have  been  exalted  in  the 
Chinese  pantheon  to  an  equality  with  heaven.  For  investigating  this 
influence  in  connection  with  his  writings,  the  'vork  here  briefly  notic- 
ed is  well  adapted. 


200 


Memoir  of  Rev  D Abed 


May, 


Art.  Ill  Memoir  of  the  Rev.  David  Abeel,  D.  D.,  late  missionary 
to  China  By  his  nephew,  Rev.  G R Williamson  New  York, 
R.  Carter,  1845.  Pp.  315. 

The  best  records  of  a good  man’s  life  are  not  usually  written  in  his 
memoir,  nor  the  list  of  his  worthy  acts  recited  in  his  epitaph  , the 
former  are  oftenest  inscribed  in  the  cherished  recollections  of  his 
friends,  and  the  latter  made  known  most  satisfactorily  by  those  who 
rise  up  and  call  him  blessed  for  the  good  deeds  or  kind  feeling  they 
knew  of  him.  To  such  persons  a biography  can  not  be  too  minute, 
for  they  love  to  dwell  upon  every  trait  of  character,  hear  of  every  act 
performed,  and  learn  all  the  particulars  of  one  whom  they  would  glad- 
ly  live  with  over  again ; while  to  those  who  read  the  pages  with  no 
such  halo  cast  around  them,  they  frequently  appear  rather  dry  and 
uninstructive.  It  is  no  easy  art,  therefore,  to  write  a good  biography, 
even  if  the  subject  be  worthy  of  one:  for  the  first  class  of  readers 
prefer  the  minuter  traits  of  the  character  and  the  private  actions  of  their 
friend  to  be  depicted  in  all  the  warmth  and  vividness  of  their  own 
pleasing  associations ; while  these  possess  less  interest  to  general 
readers  who  look  for  notices,  facts,  or  descriptions  of  men,  characters, 
or  scenes,  that  will  repay  them  for  perusal.  The  peculiar  department 
of  the  biographer  is  not  unlike  that  of  the  portrait  painter,  and  his 
performance  pleases  most  when  it  depicts  the  lineaments  of  the  mind 
of  his  subject  most  accurately,  and  leads  every  reader  who  knew  the 
original  to  say,  “ That  is  a good  portraiture  of  the  man ; we  almost 
see  him  living  before  us.” 

Amidst  the  scores  of  biographies  which  yearly  issue  from  the  press, 
few  come  up  to  the  highest  style  of  such  works,  and  among  them  we 
think  the  present  volume  must  be  reckoned,  for  it  makes  us  but  par- 
tially acquainted  with  the  mind  and  heart  of  Dr.  Abeel,  nor  contains 
much  information  respecting  the  varied  scenes  of  labor  where  he 
spent  most  of  his  days.  In  a Prefatory  Note,  Mr.  Williamson  tells 
us  that  his  labors  were  confined  chiefly  to  arranging  the  Journal,  Diary, 
and  Correspondence  of  his  uncle,  and  that  he  could  not  collect  his 
letters  spread  over  most  parts  of  the  globe,  nor  did  he  know  "those 
little  facts  and  incidents  of  life  which  often  develop  the  character  in 
its  most  delightful  aspects,  and  which  can  only  be  known  by  constant 
personal  intercourse.”  In  this  case,  therefore,  we  think  it  would 
have  been  desirable  to  have  waited  until  he  could  collect  part  of  his 


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281 


correspondence,  and  supplied  his  lack  of  acquaintance  with  the  “ little 
facts  and  incidents  ” from  the  knowledge  of  Dr  Abeel’s  associates. 
We  are  not  complaining  because  he  did  not  know  these  things,  but 
the  memoir  would  have  been  far  more  valuable  if  he  had  collected 
them  as  far  as  he  could  do,  and  inserted  some  portions  of  a corres- 
pondence which  was  so  widely  scattered,  and  which  vve  doubt  not 
would  have  been  cheerfully  contributed  for  the  purpose.  Yet  how- 
ever much  we  should  have  rejoiced  at  seeing  a full  delineation  of  Dr. 
Abeel’s  heart  and  intellect — his  whole  inner  man — and  an  account  of 
his  services  in  the  cause  of  missions,  a brief  notice  of  the  leading 
events  in  his  life  is  all  that  we  can  give  in  the  limits  of  an  article. 

David  Abeel  was  born  June  12th,  1804,  in  the  city  of  New  Bruns- 
wick, New  Jersey.  His  family  was  originally  from  Amsterdam, 
Holland,  and  its  members  are  now  widely  scattered  over  the  Union 
His  father  was  an  officer  in  the  navy  during  the  Revolution,  and  was 
so  distinguished  for  his  bravery  in  several  actions  as  to  receive  the 
special  thanks  of  Congress.  His  mother,  Jane  Hassert,  was  a lady 
“ possessed  of  deep  piety,  great  benevolence  of  character,  and  gentle- 
ness of  spirit.”  Their  son  was  in  his  youth,  “ characterized  by 
great  vivacity  of  spirit,  a depth  of  generous  feeling,  a high  sense  of 
worldly  honor,  and  a remarkable  devotion  to  friends  and  friend- 
ships.” At  the  age  of  fifteen,  he  sought  admission  into  the  Military- 
Academy  at  West  Point,  but  withdrew  his  application  on  account  of 
the  large  number  who  had  previously  applied,  and  turned  his  attention 
to  the  study  of  medicine  for  about  a year. 

At  this  time,  when  about  seventeen  years  of  age,  his  attention  was 
seriously  arrested  by  religious  truth.  In  those  hours  of  anxious  in- 
quiry, he  resorted  for  instruction  to  the  venerable  Dr.  Livingston, 
and  after  a long  season  of  distress  and  darkness,  hope  dawned  upon 
his  soul ; and  those  traits  of  Christian  character  began  to  be  develop- 
ed which  marked  his  whole  subsequent  life.  He  took  a high  posi- 
tion in  regard  to  duty  and  self-consecration  to  God  and  the  welfare 
of  man,  which  he  well  maintained  to  the  end;  and  after  due  con- 
sideration devoted  himself  to  the  work  of  the  ministry.  Accordingly, 
in  1823  he  entered  the  Theological  Seminary  at  New  Brunswick, 
and  completed  his  course  there  in  April,  1828.  On  the  20th  of  the 
same  month  he  was  licensed  to  preach,  and  during  the  next  month, 
received  his  commission  as  a pastor  in  Athens,  Greene  Co.,  New- 
York,  where  he  continued  two  years  and  a half,  laboring  in  season 
and  out  of  season,  with  considerable  success. 

One  extract  given  from  a journal  kept  during  this  period  refers  to 


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May, 


the  case  of  an  old  man  nearly  seventy  years  of  age,  who  had  given  up 
all  hope  of  eternal  happiness,  and  who  fully  believed  and  expected  to 
experience  the  bitter  pangs  of  eternal  death,  but  who  was  utterly 
insensible  to  the  dreadful  prospect,  and  would  make  no  effort  to  es- 
cape the  consequences  of  his  sin.  This  man’s  remarks  greatly  affect- 
ed Mr  Abeel,  and  we  have  heard  him  relate  the  conversation  with  a 
vividness  and  particularity,  corresponding  to  the  impression  it  was 
calculated  to  produce — a far  greater  one  than  his  own  record  at  the  time 
would  indicate.  Other  extracts  are  given  by  his  biographer,  showing 
how  abundant  were  his  labors  in  preaching,  visiting,  and  praying 
with  the  people  of  his  flock,  so  great  that  we  are  not  surprised  to 
learn,  that  at  the  conclusion  of  the  first  two  years,  he  was  obliged  to 
leave  them,  and  seek  health  and  relief  for  body  and  mind  in  a change 
of  air  and  scene. 

In  Nov.  1828,  he  sailed  for  St.  John’s,  one  of  the  Danish  West  Indian 
islands,  to  recruit  his  energies,  and  with  the  expectation  of  preaching 
as  he  found  opportunity.  The  inhabitants  had  had  no  regular  preach- 
ing for  thirty-six  years,  but  the  government  prohibited  him  exercising 
his  spiritual  calling,  and  after  holding  services  for  two  months  he  was 
forbid  to  continue  the  meetings,  though  his  hearers  were  more  anxious 
than  ever  to  hear  him.  He  therefore  returned  to  New  York  in  Aug. 
1829,  and  soon  after  a proposition  was  made  to  him  to  go  to  China 
as  chaplain  to  the  seamen  frequenting  the  port  of  Canton,  under 
the  patronage  of  the  American  Seamen’s  Friend  Society,  with  the 
understanding  that  he  was  to  leave  their  service  in  a year  to  enter  that 
of  the  American  Board  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  islands  and 
countries  in  Eastern  Asia,  to  ascertain  the  best  positions  for  establish- 
ing missionary  stations.  Less  than  a month  was  allowed  him  to  decide 
on  the  proposition  and  prepare  for  the  voyage,  but  this,  in  his  state  of 
mind  and  previous  consideration  of  the  subject  of  missions  in  relation  to 
personal  service,  was  quite  long  enough,  and  he  was  soon  ready.  He 
sailed  for  Canton,  Oct.  14th,  1829,  in  the  ship  Roman,  in  company 
with  Rev  E.  C.  Bridgman  and  others,  and  reached  his  field  of  labor 
Feb.  25th,  1830,  where  he  and  his  associate  were  cordially  welcomed 
by  Dr  Morrison;  they  were  the  first  fellow-laborers  in  the  cause  of 
missions  in  China  he  had  seen  since  Dr  Milne’s  departure  in  1814. 
The  impressions  made  upon  Mr.  Abeel  on  landing  are  such  as  often 
arise  to  the  reflective  mind  under  such  circumstances. 

“ Pitiable,  miserable  beings  I 1 can  scarcely  reconcile  the  idea  to  my  mind 
that  the  persons  whom  1 daily  sec  arc  the  pagans  of  whom  1 have  thought 
and  read  and  heard  &o  much,  and  for  whom  I have  joined  God  s people  in  bo 


1849 


263 


J hmoir  of  Rn<  D Abeel. 

many  petitions.  Bone  of  our  bone  and  flesh  of  our  flesh,  with  features,  ac- 
tions, intellect,  feelings,  like  our  own— so  similar  that  they  remind  me  of 
Christian  friends  whom  they  resemble — and  yet  in  gross  darkness ; having 
no  God,  and  without  a knowledge  of  the  blessed  Redeemer,  though  under 
the  same  necessity  of  knowledge  with  Christians;  bound  to  the  same  eternal 
destiny,  with  no  other  season  of  preparation  than  the  present  ; withering 
under  the  same  infirmities,  and  daily  dropping  into  the  grave  : my  heart  melts 
with  tenderness  at  the  thought  of  them.” 

Such  feelings  towards  the  Chinese  led  him  to  devote  his  powers 
entirely  to  his  chaplaincy,  and  though  the  novelty  of  the  undertaking 
led  some  shipmasters  to  look  upon  it  as  a useless  work  to  preach  to 
sailors,  there  were  many  encouragements,  and  when  he  closed  his  term 
of  service  in  December,  1830,  he  felt  the  attempt  had  not  been 
wholly  in  vain.  Some  years  afterward  he  had  a gratifying  reward  of 
his  faithfulness  in  the  declaration  made  by  a sailor  at  a public 
meeting  in  the  United  States  that  he  was  recalled  to  a sense  of 
sin  while  at  Whampoa,  and  led  to  reform  from  hearing  the  pointed 
admonitions  of  Mr.  Abeel.  Such  tokens  of  the  Divine  approbation 
were  his  highest  pleasures,  and  to  obtain  them,  his  supreme  desire. 

A free  passage  having  been  offered  him  to  Angier  by  Capt.  Drum- 
mond of  the  H.  C.  S.  Castle  Huntly,  he  sailed  for  Java,  from  whence 
he  intended  to  proceed  on  his  tour  of  exploration.  His  services  as 
chaplain  on  board  this  fine  ship  were  favored  by  “ the  advice,  the 
cooperation,  and  the  prayers  of  the  commander,”  and  a part  of  every 
day  was  spent  among  the  crew.  He  reached  Batavia  from  Angier 
Jan.  20th,  1831,  and  found  a home  in  the  family  of  Rev.  Mr.  Medhurst, 
who  also  greatly  aided  him  in  his  inquiries  into  the  spiritual  condition 
and  wants  of  the  Chinese  and  Malays.  They  took  short  excursions 
into  the  country,  as  well  as  made  constant  visits  to  the  bazaars  of  the 
town  itself,  everywhere  ascertaining  the  deplorable  bigotry,  ignorance, 
and  wickedness  of  the  natives,  all  which  were  so  many  strong  argu- 
ments in  Mr.  Abeel’s  mind  for  greater  efforts  in  their  behalf.  Much 
of  his  time  was  spent  in  studying  the  Amoy  dialect  of  the  Chinese 
language,  without  a knowledge  of  which  he  could  not  expect  to  exert 
a lasting  influence  over  the  colonists  who  resort  to  the  Archipelago, 
most  of  whom  come  from  Fuhkien. 

He  proceeded  from  Java  to  Singapore  in  June,  1831,  where  he 
found  the  Rev.  Jacob  Tomlin  about  proceeding  to  Siam  to  rejoin  Mr. 
Gutzlaff,  and  immediately  determined  to  accompany  him  in  an  Arab 
vessel  soon  to  sail ; they  reached  Bangkok,  Julv  2d,  and  found  that 
Mr.  G.  had  left  for  China.  They  labored  with  much  encouragement, 
both  among  the  Chinese  and  Siamese  until  January,  1832,  when 


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Memoir  of  Rev.  D Abeel. 


May 


ill  health  and  other  considerations  compelled  them  both  to  leave  the 
country.  During  their  residence,  they  distributed  tracts  and  medi- 
cines to  a large  extent,  and  met  with  little  or  no  opposition  from 
either  ruler,  priest  or  people.  The  Portuguese  consul  in  Siam  at 
that  time,  Sr.  Carlos  de  Silveira,  though  a Romanist,  exerted  a power- 
ful influence  with  the  government  in  favor  of  the  mission  until  his 
departure  in  1834,  and  declared  his  determination  to  uphold  these 
efforts  to  diffuse  Christianity  with  all  the  powers  at  his  command  ; 
this  decided  stand  at  that  early  day  had  much  to  do  with  even  the 
existence  of  the  mission,  and  consequently  with  its  subsequent 
encouraging  growth.  How  much  the  favor  with  which  the  efforts  to 
disseminate  Christianity  in  that  country  have  been  regarded  by  its 
rulers,  may  be  owing  to  Mr.  Abeel’s  personal  labors,  can  not  be  said, 
for  no  appropriation  of  work  and  rewards  can  be  made;  but  the  opinion 
of  Dr.  Anderson  given  on  page  288,  that  the  impression  he  made  was 
singularly  happy,  is  very  just.  “ It  was  hard  even  for  prejudiced  and 
bigoted  pagans  to  resist  the  impression,  notw  ithstanding  his  imperfect 
use  of  their  language,  that  his  aim  was  to  do  them  good  ; and  the  grace 
of  God  had  taught  him  that  the  secret  of  missionary  success  is  in 
preaching  Christ.” 

On  returning  to  the  Straits,  Mr.  Abeel  resumed  his  labors  as  his 
strength  and  health  were  restored,  recruiting  his  energies  by  a trip  to 
Malacca  in  February.  Feeling  the  necessity  of  reoccupying  the  station 
at  Bangkok  until  some  assistance  should  arrive,  he  returned  there  in 
May,  and  felt  himself  amply  rewarded  by  the  encouragement  he  met 
with  in  affording  relief  to  the  diseased,  and  instruction  to  the  ignorant 
He  had  access  to  the  leading  men  of  the  nation,  one  of  whom,  Prince 
Chow  Fah,  made  an  engagement  to  receive  his  instruction  in  English 
every  other  day,  and  to  furnish  him  with  a teacher  in  Siamese  the 
alternate  day.  This  nobleman  has  since  become  better  known  for  his 
enterprizing  efforts  to  benefit  and  elevate  his  people  in  Western  arts 
and  knowledge,  but  he  is  still  halting  between  idolatry  and  Chris- 
tianity. After  prosecuting  these  labors  for  nearly  six  months,  Mr 
Abeel  felt  they  must  be  suspended,  or  he  be  laid  in  the  grave,  and  he 
accordingly  made  arrangements  for  committing  the  care  of  the  few 
persons  who  regularly  attended  Christian  services  to  a native  untd 
some  missionary  arrived.  His  w'ords  in  view  of  separation  express 
the  feelings  of  his  heart  : — 

“ Oct.  14/A.  Since  the  commencement  of  our  Sabbath  service,  I 
have  not  seen  such  thoughtful  attention  as  was  apparent  towards  the 
close  of  this  morning’s  exhortation  The  Spirit  of  the  living  Savior 


1819. 


Memoir  of  Rev.  D Abed. 


J65 


was  doubtless  with  us,  and  the  hearts  of  many,  I sincerely  believe, 
felt  his  sacred  presence.  Again  the  sadness  of  separation  came  over 
my  spirit,  and  again  1 commended  this  little  band  to  the  Shepherd  and 
Bishop  of  souls.  The  more  vve  labor  with  the  heathen,  the  more  w e 
see  the  necessity  of  laboring  with  our  own  hearts.  It  is  difficult  to 
say  which  is  the  most  painful,  to  toil  on  with  no  encouragement,  or  to 
leave  unaccomplished  the  most  encouraging  labors.  To  labor  with 
persevering  patience,  expectation,  and  prayers,  is  not  sufficient,  at  least 
for  the  comfort  of  the  instrument ; he  must  learn  to  have  his  spirit  so 
attuned  that  the  animating  strain,  ‘ I can  do  all  things  through  Christ 
which  strengtheneth  me,’  may  allow  of  the  interlude,  ‘Not  my  will, 
but  Thine  be  done.’  ” 

A short  account  of  the  position  and  prospects  of  the  mission  at  Siam 
at  this  time  is  given  by  Mr.  Abeel  himself  in  Vol.  I.  of  the  Repository, 
page  466,  to  which  we  refer.  On  his  return  to  Singapore  in 
November,  he  was  immediately  called  upon  to  assist  and  supply  the. 
place  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Burn,  the  chaplain,  who  was  then  ill,  and  who 
died  Jan.  17th,  1833;  and  finding  that  the  exertion  did  not  tax  his 
powers  too  much  he  continued  his  ministrations,  preaching  twice  on 
the  Sabbath  and  once  a week,  besides  attending  to  the  study  of  the 
Chinese  and  Malay  languages,  and  distributing  books  to  those  speaking 
them.  Some  of  his  communications  during  this  period  are  given  in 
the  Memoir  for  the  purpose  of  showing  his  growth  in  grace,  his 
increasing  acquaintance  with  his  own  heart,  and  his  strengthening 
purpose  to  do  all  he  could  to  “ be  the  instrument  of  placing  one  of 
the  many  crowns  upon  the  brow  of  his  glorified  Redeemer  Christ.” 
Possessing  such  a spirit  (for  the  desire  for  it  evidently  showed  the 
possession),  we  are  prepared  to  learn  that  his  preaching  after  the 
death  of  Mr.  Burn  was  blessed  to  the  conversion  of  several  persons 
in  Singapore.  He  occupied  the  pulpit  there  for  five  months,  when  a 
recurrence  of  the  same  symptoms  of  mental  and  bodily  weakness, 
resulting  from  chronic  dyspepsia,  compelled  him  to  seek  another 
change  of  air  and  scene.  One  extract  from  his  diary  made  during 
this  period  contains  a train  of  thought  well  fitted  to  encourage  the 
minister  oi  Christ  when  laboring  without  seeing  any  success, 

“ Have  enjoyed  some  impression  of  my  relation  to  the  Savior,  and  depend- 
ence upon  him  as  a co-worker,  ‘ a star  in  his  right  hand.’  With  what  encourag- 
ing perseverance  we  can  preach,  when  we  remember  what  we  are,  instruments 
in  Christ's  hand — what  our  object  is.  His  glory — how  that  object  can  be 
promoted,  by  His  power — who  is  principally  concerned  in  its  promotion, 
Himself — what  he  has  promised  in  regard  to  our  labors,  ! My  word  shall  not 

34 


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266 


Memoir  of  lltv.  D A heel. 


May, 


return  unto  me  voul,' — and  in  what  light  God  in  mercy  regards  us,  if  faithful, 
‘We  are  unto  God  a sweet  savor  of  Christ,  in  them  that  are  saved  and  in 
them  that  perish.'  Such  views  compose  and  sustain  the  mind,  when  our  work 
appears  to  be  hindered  by  those  events  which  are  beyond  our  control.  With 
such  things  our  instrumentality  has  nothing  to  do,  and  in  regard  to  them  we 
have  nothing  to  say  or  think.  Whatever  may  be  effected  through  effort  or 
prayer,  it  is  our  duty  to  attempt;  but  when  our  vigorous  efforts  and  most  im- 
portunate prayers  are  unsuccessful,  it  would  be  sinful  to  despond  or  imagine 
we  may  not  be  acceptable,  though  Israel  be  not  gathered,  as  though  every 
purpose  of  Infinity  was  found  to  square  with  our  views  and  wishes.” 

Feeling  that  his  mission  was  to  all,  Mr.  Abeel  published  an  address 
while  in  the  East,  entitled  To  the  Bachelors  of  India,  By  a Bach- 
elor^ in  which  he  endeavored,  with  his  accustomed  earnestness  and 
plainness  to  show  the  dreadful  consequences  both  in  time  and  eternity, 
of  the  illicit  connections  so  common  between  foreigners  and  the  native 
females ; reviewing  the  arguments  put  forward  in  their  favor,  and 
showing  their  weakness  and  sinfulness,  concluding  his  remarks  by 
urging  every  one  implicated  in  such  habits,  immediately  to  abandon 
t le  degrading  connection.  We  have  room  for  only  one  extract,  show- 
ing the  general  character  of  the  pamphlet. 

“ We  know  the  assimilation  of  mind  to  the  objects  of  its  daily  contemplation, 
and  especially  when  these  objects  are  regarded  with  the  least  complacency. 
When  passion  gains  a triumphant  ascendancy  over  the  dictates  of  reason, 
the  influence  of  refinement,  the  restraints  of  relationship,  and  the  voice  of 
conscience;  farewell  to  all  that  ennobles  and  moralizes  the  soul.  Its  effects 
are  well  described  by  an  approved  writer : ‘ However  it  be  accounted  for, 
the  criminal  commerce  of  the  sexes  corrupts  and  depraves  the  mind  and 
moral  character,  more  than  any  single  species  of  vice  whatever.  That  ready 
perception  of  guilt,  that  prompt  and  decisive  resolution  against  it  which  con- 
stitutes a virtuous  character,  is  seldom  found  in  persons  addicted  to  these  in- 
dulgences. They  prepare  an  easy  admission  for  every  sin  that  seeks  it. 
They  are  in  low  life,  usually  the  first  stage  in  men’s  progress  to  the  most 
desperate  villanies;  and  in  high  life,  to  that  lamentable  dissoluteness  of  prin- 
ciple, which  manifests  itself  in  a profligacy  of  public  conduct,  and  a con- 
tempt of  the  obligations  of  religion.  To  this  must  be  added  the  putrefactive 
influence  of  impurity  itself ; which  as  a pestilence  through  the  body,  diffuses 
mortification  and  rottenness  throughout  the  soul,  and  converts  it  into  a mere 
mass  of  death  and  corruption.'  That  this  is  true,  who  can  deny.  If  noti 
whence  that  aversion  to  mingling  with  virtuous  society  ? Whence  that  dread 
of  confronting  respectable  and  refined  females  ? Whence  that  fatal  abandon- 
ment of  all  the  restraints  of  education  and  conscience  ? How  many  have 
landed  on  these  shores,  with  principles  of  honor  and  purity,  which  spurned 
the  thought  of  such  a base  and  immoral  alliance.  How  soon,  alas  ! have  these 
very  persons  become  familiarized  with  every  oaude  of  previous  disgust,  and 


1849. 


Memoir  of  Rev.  D Abed 


2B7 


eo  completely  infatuated  and  lost  to  virtue,  bs  to  smile  at  the  delicacy  of  the 
conscientious  new-comer,  and  even  condemn  his  ultra  scrupulosity . But  this 
is  not  all.  The  grangrene  has  infected  the  whole  soul,  and  everything  that 
can  arrest  its  progress  is  carefully  avoided.  The  very  crime  becomes  an 
argument  for  a separation  from  every  scene  and  object  designed  to  benefit 
the  heart.  Some,  who  once  appeared  to  the  world  to  run  well  in  the  Chris- 
tian race,  have  halted  in  their  course.  Others  whose  consciences  were  form- 
erly faithful  to  their  charge,  have  dismissed  their  groundless  fears.  Many  who 
were  once  regular  in  their  attendance  upon  public  worship,  are  seldom  seen 
where  their  peace  might  be  disturbed.  The  society  of  the  good  becomes 
irksome,  and  is  gradually  and  at  last  totally  avoided.  Retirement  is  support- 
able only  when  the  mind  is  diverted  from  acting  upon  itself.  The  compa- 
nionship of  those  who  are  living  the  same  life  furnishes  a draft  the  most 
lethean,  for  the  time,  and  as  might  be  expected  is  frequently  sought.  Oh  ! it 
is  a downward  course,  and  the  heart  of  many  a fond  parent  would  blepd, 
if  they  could  follow  the  object  of  their  hopes  and  prayers  to  this  demoraliz- 
ing region.  Though  they  may  have  sighed  at  the  cause  of  the  evil,  they  little 
suspect  its  deplorable  influence  upon  the  heart  and  life.” 

He  left  Singapore  May  25th,  1833,  in  the  ship  Cambridge  (the 
same  vessel,  then  called  the  Chesapeake,  that  was  afterwards  purchased 
by  the  Chinese),  and  reached  England  Oct.  21st,  with  health  much 
strengthened  by  the  voyage,  and  mind  refreshed  by  the  rest  of  shipboard 
One  of  his  fellow-passengers,  Mr.  Loch,  since  deceased  at  Singa- 
pore, was  led  to  examine  his  hopes  for  heaven  by  the  remarks  and  con- 
duct of  Mr.  Abeel,  and  ever  afterwards  showed  by  his  life  the  reality 
of  the  change  in  his  soul.  On  arriving  in  London,  Mr.  A.  found  a 
home  in  the  family  of  Rev.  Dr.  A.  Reed  of  Hackney,  through  whose 
kindness  he  became  acquainted  with  a large  number  of  Christian 
friends,  among  whom  he  endeavored  to  diffuse  more  information  and 
excite  a greater  zeal  for  missions.  By  the  advice  of  the  Committee 
of  the  Society  in  America,  he  visited  the  Continent  for  the  same  pur- 
pose, and  especially  Holland,  where  he  hoped  to  form  some  kind  of  con- 
nection with  the  churches  to  cooperate  with  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church  in  America  in  regard  to  foreign  missions  in  the  Archipelago 
but  his  efforts  did  not  result  to  his  satisfaction.  While  in  England 
he  made  an  address  at  the  anniversary  of  the  Bible  Society,  in  which 
he  gave  some  notices  of  his  life  in  Asia.  In  this  speech,  under  the 
similitude  of  a companion,  he  spoke  of  the  Bible,  how  it  had  gone 
before  him  and  prepared  the  way  for  his  reception,  how  it  went  with 
him  to  guide,  to  cheer,  to  reprove,  and  to  strengthen  him  in  his  labors 
at  home  and  abroad,  and  how  he  thought  this  companion  would  be 
willing  to  accompany  others  too  if  they  would  take  him  The  allegory 
was  well  sustained,  and  gave  much  pleasure. 


209 


Memoir  of  Rev  D Abeel.  May, 

The  pleasures  of  these  trips  were  increased  by  meeting  Mr.  C.  W. 
King  in  England,  with  whom  he  had  passed  many  agreeable  hours 
in  China,  and  with  whom  he  now  visited  many  places  and  persons.  In 
September,  1834,  Mr.  Abeel  reached  New  York,  and  enjoyed  the 
happiness  of  a reunion  with  his  friends,  all  thankful  too,  that  his 
health  had  been  improved  since  leaving  Singapore. 

He  remained  in  the  United  States  upwards  of  four  years,  during 
which  time  he  exerted  a greater  influence  in  behalf  of  missions  in  this 
part  of  the  world,  and  diffused  more  information  respecting  them 
in  the  United  States  than  had  before  been  done  by  any  individual.  In 
1834,  he  published  a duodecimo  volume  of  378  pages  in  furtherance 
of  the  same  object,  called  “ Journal  of  a Residence  in  China  and  the 
Neighboring  Countries,”  which  contained  the  outlines  of  his  labors 
during  his  absence  of  five  years,  and  notices  of  the  populous  regions 
of  Chin-India,  through  which  the  triumphs  of  the  Gospel  were  yet  to 
be  extended.  The  work  was  reprinted  in  England,  and  reached  a 
second  edition  in  1836 ; it  served  to  embody  the  principal  facts  he 
wished  to  communicate  on  the  subject,  and  was  found  eminently 
useful  as  an  accompaniment  to  his  addresses.  It  has  since  been  super- 
seded by  more  complete  works,  and  is  now  mainly  interesting  for  the 
spirit  of  religious  feeling  which  glows  on  every  page,  and  which  com- 
pels the  reader  to  regard  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  nations  it  de- 
scribes as  of  paramount  importance.  Just  before  his  departure  from 
New  York  in  1838,  he  published  another  small  volume,  called  The 
Missionary  Convention  at  Jerusalem,  in  which  the  leading  objections 
urged  against  foreign  missions  are  answered,  and  the  chief  arguments 
in  their  favor  are  brought  forward,  by  various  persons  of  different 
nations  and  professions  supposed  to  be  present  at  a General  Conven- 
tion on  Mt.  Zion.  No  one  was  better  fitted  for  showing  the  unsound- 
ness of  every  reason  that  can  be  urged  for  not  fulfilling  the  Savior’s 
last  command,  than  its  author,  and  the  candid  inquirer  will  find  his 
doubts  dispelled  by  a perusal  of  its  pages.  A volume  of  sermons  on  the 
subject  of  missions  was  contemplated  by  him,  but  only  two  or  three 
detached  ones  were  printed.  From  one  of  these,  entitled  The  Mis- 
sionary Fortified  against  Trials,  preached  Nov.  23d,  1834,  to  a com- 
pany about  leaving  for  Africa,  we  extract  a few  sentences. 

“ I know  of  no  life  more  desirable  than  that  of  a devoted  missionary.  Take 
from  him  the  world,  with  all  its  fascinations  and  cares,  and  you  have  depriv- 
ed him  of  nothing,  you  have  done  him  a favor,  you  have  placed  him  in  a con- 
dition somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the  glorified  spirits.  Just  so  far  as  every 
thing  earthly  is  removed  from  his  heart,  so  far  is  the  channel  of  his  warm 


1849, 


Memoir  of  Rev  1)  AbeeJ 


269 


affections  to  Cod  cleared  of  its  obstructions,  and  widened  and  deepened 
while  the  lide  of  his  love  flows  freely  forth,  and  the  river  of  God’s  pleasure 
rolls  back,  in  its  fullness,  on  his  delighted  soul, 

“Fix  your  eye  upon  that  gracious  Redeemer,  and  never  turn  it  away. 
Remember  you  goon  his  errand ; he  has  sent  you.  Animating  truth!  the 
enterprise  is  not  ours.  Let  those  who  denominate  a world’s  conversion  a 
wild  scheme,  remember  who  devised  it.  Let  those  who  look  upon  missionaries 
as  enthusiasts,  reflect  whose  command  has  made  them  such.  Let  those  who 
believe  the  nations  can  never  be  evangelized,  consider  whose  power  and 
veracity  their  incredulity  sets  at  defiance.  While  Jesus  has  died  to  redeem 
the  world — while  the  sceptre  of  the  universe,  and  the  throne  of  all  hearts  are 
in  his  hands — while  the  angels  are  his  servants,  and  the  devils  are  beneath 
his  feet — while  all  power  in  heaven  and  earth  are  his,  and  his  for  this  express 
purpose — ‘for  he  must  reign  until  all  enemies  are  put  under  his  feet’ — 
then  who  has  the  privilege  of  prosecuting  his  work  with  assurance  and  delight, 
if  the  missionary  of  Christ  have  not  ?” 

During  the  period  of  his  sojourn  in  America,  he  twice  made  ar- 
rangements for  sailing,  but  a sudden  access  of  sickness  prevented, 
and  he  was  obliged  to  remain  longer  to  recruit ; on  one  occasion 
going  to  St.  Thomas  in  the  West  Indies,  and  on  another  to  Charleston, 
S.  C.  Even  when  he  finally  left  his  friends,  it  was  against  the  advice 
of  his  physicians.  He  sailed  Oct.  17th,  1838,  in  the  ship  Morrison, 
in  company  with  Rev.  S.  R.  Brown  and  Mr.  B.  P.  Keasberry  and 
their  wives,  a free  passage  being  given  the  whole  company  by  her 
owners,  Messrs.  Olyphant  &,  Co.;  this  was  also  done  when  he  first 
sailed;  they  reached  Macao,  Feb.  20th,  1839.  Soon  after  his  arrival 
in  Canton,  he  was  seized  with  one  of  those  attacks  of  extreme  prostra- 
tion and  violent  action  of  the  heart,  to  which  he  had  long  been  sub- 
ject. On  this  occasion  he  observed  to  a Christian  brother,  “ That  the 
certain  knowledge  that  in  fifteen  minutes  he  should  pass  into  eternity 
would  not  agitate  him  in  the  least.”  To  one  unacquainted  with 
the  character  of  Mr.  Abeel,  such  an  assertion  might  seem  presump- 
tuous. But  no  self-confidence,  no  inconsiderateness,  mingled  with 
his  feelings.  He  had  long  lived  with  the  eternal  world  in  immediate 
prospect,  and  shaped  his  course  in  this  in  reference  to  it.  He  knew  in 
whom  he  had  believed,  and  everything  concerning  his  exit  from  this  life 
of  labor  and  self  denial  in  the  service  of  Christ,  to  that  of  reward  and 
full  fruition  in  the  future,  had  been  committed  to  Him  who  doeth 
all  things  well. 

During  the  next  twro  years,  most  of  rylnch  he  spent  at  Macao  in  com- 
parative health  he  w'as  enabled  to  attend  to  tfie  Fuhkien  dialect  of  the 
Chinese  language  with  more  regularity  than  aj  any  previous  time,  while 


270 


Memoir  of  Rev.  D Abeel. 


May, 


awaiting  the  result  of  the  war  with  England.  The  Memoir  contains 
many  pages  of  extracts  from  his  journal  kept  during  the  war,  the 
progress  of  which  he  watched  with  great  attention,  believing  that  it 
was  to  be  the  means  in  the  hands  of  God  for  opening  China.  lie  thus 
speaks  of  his  health  and  studies  under  date  of  Nov.  20th,  1839. 

“ O how  time  flies ! Summer  gone,  autumn  gone,  the  greater  part,  and 
probably  by  far  the  best  part  of  life  gone.  Greatly  blessed  in  health;  all 
would  be  well,  morally  and  physically,  were  it  not  for  the  heart.  Its  thump- 
ing, and  aching,  and  sinning,  will  soon  be  over,  which  ought  to  satisfy  me. 
Lately  I have  been  able  to  sympathize  more  with  the  feelings  I have  heard 
you  express.  The  farther  I advance  in  the  language,  the  more  desirous  do 
I become  to  live  that  1 may  employ  it.  And  yet  when  I think  of  Morrison, 
and  Stevens,  and  others,  who  with  all  their  qualifications  were  called  away 
in  the  midst  of  life,  I perceive  that  the  Lord’s  work  does  not  require  such  a 
tool  as  I am.  Well,  his  perfect  will  be  done.  Heaven  is  full  of  attractions. 
Jesus  is  there.  Our  Father  is  there.  What  is  not  there  which  the  sanctified 
soul  desires  ? ” 

In  April,  1841,  he  made  a trip  to  Singapore,  where  he  remained  until 
October,  supplying  the  vacant  pulpit  at  the  request  of  the  residents, 
greatly  to  their  satisfaction.  In  October,  according  to  a plan  spoken 
of  before  he  left  America,  he  visited  the  mission  stations  at  Sambas 
and  Pontianak  in  Borneo,  in  company  with  Rev.  Mr.  McBryde,  and 
returned  to  Singapore  in  December.  The  change  in  the  missions  in 
Siam  and  the  Archipelago  during  the  five  years  he  had  been  absent 
were  great,  the  number  of  laborers  alone  having  multiplied  tenfold. 

Soon  after  reaching  Macao,  he  understood  that  the  island  of  Ku- 
lang  sii  near  Amoy,  then  occupied  by  British  troops,  was  accessible, 
as  a missionary  station,  and  a plan  was  formed  by  Rev.  Mr.  Boone 
and  himself  (though  with  some  misgivings  on  his  part),  to  proceed 
there  to  survey  the  place;  this  they  did,  leaving  Hongkong  Feb.  7th, 
1842,  and  reaching  Killing  sii  about  the  end  of  the  month.  Respect- 
ing the  new  station  thus  found,  Mr.  Abeel  writes,  “I  have  reason 
to  thank  God  for  bringing  me  to  this  place.  It  appears  like  an 
excellent  opening  for  missionary  labor.  It  is  the  very  sphere  I have 
desired  and  prayed  for  many  years.  This  appears  more  like  the  be- 
ginning of  missionary  work  in  China,  than  anything  I have  yet  seen.’' 
In  this  opinion  he  may  be  regarded,  indeed,  as  correct,  and  this  as  the 
real  commencement  of  Protestant  missions  in  China,  for  during  the 
thirty-four  years  which  had  elapsed  since  Morrison  landed  at  Canton, 
all  labors  of  this  sort  had  been  performed  so  at  arms-reach,  that  they 
had  made  little  or  no  impression  upon  the  mass  of  people.  The  circum- 
stances under  which  our  friend  and  his  associate  commenced  their 


1849. 


Memoir  of  licv.  D Abed. 


271 


labors  at  Amoy  were  eminently  favorable.  The  English  troops  had 
taken  possession  of  the  bouses  in  one  of  the  villages  on  Kulangsii,  and 
the  commanding  officer  had  deemed  it  necessary  to  forbid  the  people 
coming  over  from  Amoy  in  great  numbers.  The  inhabitants  of  these 
villages  and  others  from  Amoy  often  had  business  with  the  military 
and  naval  commanders,  but  they  found  the  utmost  difficulty  in  com- 
municating with  them,  and  no  little  dissatisfaction  had  arisen  on  ac- 
count of  the  supposed  injustice  done  them,  and  from  petty,  overbear- 
ing acts  committed  by  the  sipahis.  Capt.  Smith  of  the  frigate  Druid 
had  done  all  in  his  power  to  remove  these  impediments,  and  Major 
Cowper  was  desirous  of  allaying  the  irritation  as  far  as  lie  could 
without  being  implicated  with  either  party,  both  the  missionaries, 
already  acquainted  with  the  local  dialect,  thus  became  the  mediums  of 
communication  between  both  on  all  important  occasions,  while  in 
pursuance  of  their  own  objects,  they  also  found  abundant  opportunities 
of  removing  the  ignorance,  allaying  the  suspicion,  and  explaining  the 
misapprehensions  of  the  natives  whom  they  met,  while  their  explana- 
tion of  the  truths  of  revelation  were  respectfully  listened  to. 

Few  missionaries  have  commenced  their  labors  anywhere  under  more 
favorable  auspices,  and  when  their  company  was  reinforced  in  the 
summer  by  four  others,  one  of  them  a physician,  who  opened  a 
hospital  for  the  gratuitous  distribution  of  medicines  and  relief,  both 
the  people  and  their  officers  looked  upon  the  missionaries  as  their 
friends.  In  all  labors  Mr.  Abeel  was  abundant,  acting  as  chaplain  to 
the  troops  stationed  on  Kulang  sii,  holding  services  at  the  hospital 
on  the  Sabbath,  and  conversing  with  the  patients  every  day.  Some 
communications  respecting  his  trip  to  Tung-ngiin  hien,  his  visit  to 
Formosa  in  H.  M.  S.  Serpent  to  bring  back  the  crews  of  the  Nerbud- 
da  and  Ann,  his  investigations  respecting  infanticide,  and  some  detail 
of  his  labors,  are  given  in  volumes  XII.  and  XIII.  of  the  Repository. 
Although  his  knowledge  of  the  language  and  its  intonations  was  not 
so  perfect  as  to  assure  his  being  always  understood,  yet  his  earnest 
sincerity  carried  conviction  to  the  hearts  of  his  hearers ; two  old  men 
who  have  since  endured  much  contumely  and  trouble  on  account  of 
their  profession  of  Christianity,  now  ascribe  their  first  impressions  to 
his  preaching.  The  existence  of  the  hospital  drew  large  audiences, 
and  those  who  composed  them  were  moreover  by  their  desire  to  re- 
ceive relief  already  inclined  to  hear  and  attend  to  whatever  was  said, 
so  that  the  fitness  of  the  practice  of  medicine  as  an  assistant  to  the 
missionary  was  here  admirably  illustrated.  Those  who  came  to  be 
healed  remained  to  be  taught,  those  who  came  once  from  curiosity 


Memoir  of  Ilcv  D Abccl. 


May, 


returned  again  from  interest;  so  that  Mr.  Abeel  remarks,  “1  can 
scarcely  conceive  how  any  place  could  furnish  greater  facilities  for 
spreading  far  and  wide  the  truths  of  Christianity.  There  is  no  neces- 
sity of  leaving  the  house;  they  come  in  successive  companies,  keeping 
us  busy  for  several  hours  of  each  day  until  we  are  often  exhausted. 
After  living  years  in  China,  fettered  and  tongue-tied,  to  enjoy  such 
perfect  liberty,  and  so  many  advantages  as  we  now  have,  is  most  de- 
lightful.” His  letters  at  this  time  abound  with  expressions  of  gratitude 
that  he  was  at  last  able  to  preach  to  the  Chinese  the  things  of  the 
kingdom  of  heaven.  , 

In  1842,  he  received  the  tidings  of  the  death  of  his  aged  mother, 
his  father  having  deceased  about  a year  before ; these  breaches 
in  his  family  circle  here  below,  “ formed  new  ties  to  draw  his  soul 
from  earth  to  that  heaven  of  rest  to  which  he  was  hastening.”  Dur- 
ing the  year  1843  he  was  able  to  remain  at  Amoy,  finding  great  pleas- 
ure in  his  work  and  with  his  associates  Drs.  Cumming  and  Hepburn, 
who  attended  to  the  hospital.  In  June,  1844,  Messrs.  Doty,  Pohlman, 
and  Young  with  their  wives,  arrived,  and  the  plan  of  operations  was 
soon  extended,  as  all  these  brethren  had  long  been  studying  the  dia- 
lect. Increasing  weakness,  and  the  heat  of  summer  compelled  Mr. 
Abeel  to  take  a trip  to  Macao,  from  whence  he  returned  to  Amoy  in 
September,  refreshed  by  the  change,  though  his  symptoms  were  not 
much  relieved.  During  this  summer  he  received  the  degree  of  Doctor 
of  Divinity  from  Rutger’s  college  in  New  Jersey,  but  he  wrote  to  the 
Faculty  of  that  institution  stating  his  reasons  for  declining  the  honor. 
It  was  a favorite  motto  with  him,  “ We  are  what  we  are  in  the  sight 
of  God  for,  said  he,  “ Men  may  estimate  us  too  high,  men  may  value 
us  too  low,  but  God  according  to  our  real  character.” 

The  good  effects  of  the  summer  trip  passed  away  towards  winter, 
and  in  November  he  was  compelled  to  stop  preaching  and  retire  from 
the  field,  feeling  that  while  he  remained  there,  he  would  be  a burden 
upon  the  time  and  care  of  others  who  were  already  fully  engaged.  He 
left  Amoy  Dec.  19th,  remained  at  Hongkong  and  Canton  a short  time, 
and  then  embarked  in  the  ship  Natchez,  Jan.  14th,  1845,  and  reached 
New  York  April  3d,  so  exhausted  that  he  was  carried  from  the  ship 
to  his  friends, — his  arrival  having  taken  them  all  by  surprise.  His 
life  was  however  prolonged  beyond  their  expectation,  and  though  he 
suffered  great  pain,  he  was  able  to  travel  from  one  part  of  the  country 
to  another,  visiting  his  numerous  friends,  who  delighted  to  minister  to 
his  wants,  and  allow  him  to  spend  his  time  just  as  he  wished.  On 
the  hist  of  January,  1846,  he  made  flic  following  entry  in  lus  journal 


1849, 


Memoir  of  lice.  D.  Abcct.  273 

“I  have  probably  enjoyed  more  of  the  Divine  presence  and  favor  the  last, 
year,  than  in  any  preceding  one.  Very  ill,  much  of  the  time  expecting  to 
"die.  Blessed  be  God,  1 have  no  fear  of  death.  This  has  come  through  con- 
fidence in  the  power  and  faithfulness  of  my  Redeemer.  Floods  of  light  seem 
sometimes  to  have  poured  into  my  soul.  God  has  made  his  goodness  to 
pass  before  me  : he  has  disclosed  to  me  the  love  and  tenderness  of  his  past 
dealings  with  me — how  He  led  me  out  to  the  heathen — sustained  me  all  the 
way — md  brought  me  back  to  die  among  the  dearest  friends,  and  in  the  most 
meliorating  circumstances.  All,  all  is  of  grace,  and  my  heart  often  swells 
with  gratitude.  Oh  ! who  has  ever  been  more  tenderly  and  delicately  provid- 
ed for  in  all  things.  I have  eternal  life  in  bright  and  animating  prospect, 
through  Jesus  Christ  my  all — and  besides,  I have  ‘the  world,  and  things 
present,  and  things  to  come.’  Oh,  for  more  resemblance  to  Jesus ! With  so 
little,  I wonder  at  such  manifestations.” 

The  time  of  his  departure  was  at  hand.  He  returned  from  Georgia 
in  April,  and  made  a visit  to  Rhode  Island,  and  to  the  house  of  his 
cousin  in  Geneva,  New  York.  While  at  this  latter  place  he  was 
cherished  with  the  utmost  care,  and  this  soothing  kindness  tended  great- 
ly to  assuage  his  sufferings,  which  at  this  period  arose  chiefly  from 
a nervous  irritability  more  harassing  than  actual  pain.  The.last  entry 
in  his  journal  shows  that  he  was  ready  for  the  change. 

“ August  20th,  184f>. — Wonderfully  preserved!  With  a kind  and  degree  of 
disease  which  generally  has  a speedy  issue,  f live  on.  All  things  are  mine. 
God  sustains  me  through  wearisome  days,  and  tedious,  painful  nights. 
Simple  faith  in  his  word  keeps  my  mind  in  peace,  but  he  generously  adds 
strong  consolation.  When  I embarked  for  home,  the  latter  part  of  the  5th 
chapter  of  Hebrews  was  blessed  to  the  production  of  the  assurance  of  hope, 
or  something  akin  to  it.  I have  not  lost  it.  Death  has  no  sting.  Oh,  may  the 
Conqueror  continue  with  me  till  the  close,  and  then  ! ! ! ” 

He  had  reached  Albany  ou  his  return  south,  when  he  could  proceed 
no  further.  The  most  unfavorable  symptoms  appeared.  We  give  the 
closing  scene  of  his  life  in  his  biographer’s  words. 

“ For  months  previous,  and  in  fact,  from  the  time  of  his  return,  he  always 
spoke  of  death  as  an  event  which  might  occur  at  any  time;  and  when  his 
attached  friends — who  could  hardly  enter  into  his  feelings,  and  feared  that 
a constant  contemplation  of  the  great  change  might  affect  his  remaining 
strength — chided  him  for  speaking  of  it  with  such  familiarity,  his  countenance 
would  light  up  with  a smile  of  holy  confidence,  and  lie  would  assure  them, 
that  he  had  meditated  on  the  subject  so  long,  and  realized  the  blessedness  con- 
nected with  the  change  so  fully,  that  he  was  no  more  disturbed  by  referring 
to  it,  than  by  mentioning  any  circumstance  that  might  occur  in  his  life. 
This  was  also  manifest  from  the  fact,  that  he  made  every  minute  arrangement 
in  reference  to  the  disposition  of  his  affairs  with  perfect  composure;  and  di- 
rected where  his  body  should  be  laid  to  rest,  when  his  spirit  was  released  from 

135 


VOL,  XVIJI,  NO,  V, 


274 


Memoir  of  llev.  D.  Ahcel. 


May, 


the  earthly  tabernacle.  Still,  it  may  be  said  in  one  sense,  that  death  came 
upon  him  suddenly,  and  in  a measure  unexpectedly.  He  had  before  rallied 
under  like  symptoms : and  he  was  under  the  impression,  when  they  first  ap- 
peared, that  he  had  sufficient  physical  stamina  to  resist  their  power.  But  he 
soon  saw  that  nature  could  not  endure  the  shock,  and  that  the  last  struggle  had 
arrived.  And  physically  speaking,  it  was  a struggle  ; for  his  frame  had  not 
lost  all  its  energy,  and  it  resisted  the  inroads  of  the  great  destroyer.  Ner- 
vous relaxation  and  the  intense  heat  of  the  weather  combined  to  render  his 
sufferings  most  acute.  So  great  was  his  agony,  that  he  would  permit  no  one 
to  be  present  in  his  room  but  the  physician,  who  watched  over  hirn  with  the 
greatest  solicitude.  Through  the  grace  of  God,  he  was  able  to  maintain  his 
patience  and  composure,  when  he  found  that  death  was  at  hand.  He  used 
his  remaining  strength  in  communion  with  God,  and  a calm  contemplation 
of  his  approaching  end.  There  was  no  sound  heard  in  that  chamber  of  death  ; 
for  the  sufferer  chose  rather  to  collect  all  his  energies  and  employ  them  in 
viewing  eternal  realities.  There  was  no  shout  of  triumph  heard,  for  the 
sting  of  death  had  long  since  passed  away.  As  the  prophet  of  old  await- 
ed in  silence  the  still  small  voice,  so  now  he  remained  calm,  resigned  and 
silent,  awaiting  the  call  of  his  Master.  It  was  not  the  silence  of  fear,  but  of 
composure,  and  peace  which  flowed  like  a river  in  his  soul.  His  last  wish 
was  to  be  left  undisturbed  : and  in  the  stillness  of  that  chamber  he  com- 
muned with  his  Master,  till  the  summons  came,  and  he  saw  him  face  to  face. 
Before  his  death  his  pains  and  sufferings  ceased  ; and  he  lay  as  if  in  a gentle 
slumber,  when  he  died.  No  groan  or  sigh  was  heard.  He  fell  asleep  in 
Jesus,  September  4th,  1846,  aged  forty-two  years.” 

His  remains  were  interred  on  Ocean  Hill  in  Greenwood  cemetery 
near  New  York,  where  a monument  has  been  erected  to  his  memory, 
part  of  the  cost  of  which  uras  borne  by  the  children  of  Sabbath-schools. 

The  perusal  of  this  memoir  has  revived  the  recollection  of  many 
pleasant  hours  spent  with  its  subject.  VVe  love  to  dwell  upon  them,  to 
recall  Dr.  Abeel’s  appearance,  to  contemplate  his  character,  and 
reinvigorate  our  own  desires  and  purposes  for  the  good  of  China  by 
seeing  his  energetic  action  in  behalf  of  her  people,  and  unfaltering 
love  for  their  souls,  notwithstanding  their  manifold  ignorance,  men- 
dacity, and  pollution.  His  character  was  one  of  great  loveliness,  fitted 
to  win  and  keep  friends,  its  lights  and  shades  happily  blended  ; but  when 
all  its  features  are  told,  we  feel  they  are  but  little  more  than  the 
skeleton — the  flesh,  the  life,  the  soul,  the  man,  are  all  wanting.  So  it 
must  be  with  biographies.  Man  can  not  enter  into  the  inner  chambers 
of  his  fellow-man,  and  peruse  the  handwriting  on  their  walls,  mark 
their  furniture,  inspect  the  tablets  there,  and  bring  forth  for  our  in- 
spection whatever  he  pleases.  No  one  has  the  key  to  those  adyta 
but  He  who  made  them,  and  his  Spirit  as  with  a candle  searches  the 


1849. 


Journal  of  Occurrences. 


I/O 


thoughts  and  intents  of  the  heart.  Yet  it  is  the  glory  and  the  result 
of  religion,  that  as  it  makes  one  more  acquainted  with  his  own  heart, 
so  it  exhibits  more  completely  its  inmost  springs  of  actions  to  others; 
and  those  who  have  drank  deepest  of  the  waters  of  the  well  of  life 
pour  them  out  most  freely  for  the  benefit  of  others,  and  declare  by 
every  word  and  action  the  Source  of  their  zeal.  We  close  this  brief 
notice  by  a summary  of  the  traits  in  Mr.  Abeel’s  life  given  by  some 
one  who  knew  him  well,  persuaded  that  every  one  who  was  conver- 
sant with  the  original  will  acknowledge  the  portrait. 


“ Intellectually,  he  was  clear  and  discriminating,  with  great  readiness  and 
appropriateness  of  thought.  Resolute  of  purpose,  and  energetic  in  act,  he 
could  accomplish  a large  amount  of  labor.  He  was  a man  of  unvarying 
prudence,  aud  the  most  considerate  kindness.  The  sincerity  and  warmth  of 
his  goodwill,  written  on  his  face,  embodied  in  words  of  affectionate  earnest- 
ness, and  breathed  in  tones  of  the  gentlest  persuasion,  possessed  a logic  and 
eloquence  that  seldom  failed  to  reach  the  heart.  He  was  distinguished,  not 
so  much  by  any  one  outshining  quality,  as  by  the  balanced  harmony  of  all 
his  powers.  His  was  that  excellent  and  rare  gift  of  Heaven,  good  sense. 
All  the  sweet  urbanities  of  life  he  knew  and  practised  ; and  the  high  virtues 
of  the  Christian  missionary  certainly  lose  none  of  their  lustre  by  being 
associated,  as  in  his  case,  with  those  of  the  gentleimn  and  the  scholar. 

“ It  must  be  manifest,  that  a character  and  life  such  as  we  have  depicted, 
could  have  been  inspired  and  sustained  only  by  a deep-seated  and  healthy 
piety.  It  was  this  which  nerved  a sensitive  invalid  to  those  circumnavigations 
of  charity, — which  sustained  him  under  the  depressing  fervors  of  a tropical 
sun, — which  encouraged  him  along  the  toilsome  task  of  learning  the  lan- 
guage,— and  which,  when  friends,  and  physician,  aud  fainting  nature  herself, 
counselled  retirement  and  repose,  carried  him  again  and  again  from  the  bed 
to  the  field.  And  whit  but  this,  amid  the  disappointments  of  long-cherished 
hopes,  and  wearisome  infirmities  of  the  flesh,  could  impart  that  meek  resig- 
nation and  cheerful  trust  which  made  his  last  hours  a scene  of  perfect  peace  ? 

“To  human  view  a death  like  this  seems  at  first  thought,  disastrous  and 
premature.  It  is  however,  only  the  close  of  a life  which  should  be  measured 
by  its  intensity,  rather  than  duration.  And  if 

* To  live  in  hearts  we  leave  behind, 

Is  not  to  die,* 


then  Abeel  still  lives  : — lives  in  those  words  of  his  which  yet  survive  in  memo- 
ry ; — lives  in  his  great  example  of  self-denial  and  love, — in  the  very  mound 
that  swells  above  his  ashes, — and  in  each  memorial  that  bears  his  name.” 

— " Greenwood,”  page  78: 


Art.  IV.  Journal  of  Occurrences  : Question  of  entry  into  Canton, 
and  remarks  upon  it;  rewards  conferred  by  the  emperor; 
hoppo ; disturbances  in  Tsingyuen. 


IhW 


27  6 


Journal  of  Occurrences . May, 

During  the  present  month  the  city  of  Canton  has  been  unusually  quiet,  and 
never  did  a people  use  their  victory  with  more  moderation  than  have  the  citizens 
of  this  metropolis  their  fancied  triumph  over  the  foreigners  Their  congratula- 
tions among  themselves  could  not  have  been  more  general  if  they  had  driven 
away  every  barbarian  from  their  shores.  On  what  ground  the  question  of  enter- 
ing this  city  is  viewed  by  its  inhabitants  as  a matter  of  such  moment  does  not 
very  clearly  appear.  The  records  of  the  first  travelers  to  the  city  do  not  in- 
timate, among  all  the  supercilious  treatment  they  received,  any  difficulty  on  this 
score.  Osbeck  says  foreigners  could  go  into  the  city  in  1750  by  “ leave  of  people 
of  note,”  but  they  were  shut  up  in  a sedan,  and  thus  saw  nothing  to  repay  their 
trouble  ; yet  even  this  drawback  did  not  exist  in  1700,  as  Capt.  Hamilton  speaks 
of  going  about,  and  visiting  the  local  rulers  at  their  offices  to  complain  of  the 
exactions  of  their  satellites  The  custom  seems  rather  to  have  grown  up  gra- 
dually, first  by  putting  impediments  in  the  way  of  entering  the  gates,  and  then 
prohibiting  it  altogether — the  foreign  merchants  not  deeming  it  worth  while  to 
stickle  for  the  right  of  entrance  when  they  had  it,  and  not  possessing  the  power 
to  enforce  it  when  they  had  it  not. 

A century  can  not  have  elapsed  since  the  entrance  was  forbidden,  and  it  is 
easy  to  see  that  strangers,  or  even  residents  ignorant  of  the  language,  when  they 
had  nominal  permission  would  care  very  little  about  exposing  themselves  to  the 
insults  of  the  populace  in  the  intricate  alleys  of  the  city  when  there  was  nothing 
to  repay  the  trouble  ; much  less  would  they  demand  a privilege  of  so  little  real 
value  if  trade  was  periled.  Time  has  added  strength  to  the  prohibition,  and 
perhaps  there  is  no  one  thing  which  has  operated  more  to  nurse  the  pride  of  the 
Cantonese  through  successive  generations  than  the  sanctity  of  their  city  against 
the  sacrilegious  foot  of  the  foreigner.  It  has  been  only  recently,  however,  when 
the  matter  has  been  taken  up  seriously,  that  the  strength  of  the  popular  will  has 
been  developed  ; and  we  think  that  if  Captain  Elliot  had  demanded  free  ingress 
as  one  of  the  terms  of  sparing  the  city  in  May,  1841,  it  would  have  been  grant- 
ed by  the  authorities,  and  been  given  up  by  the  people  as  one  of  tire  old  restric- 
tions which  could  no  longer  be  upheld.  That  he  did  not  do  it,  and  did  not  go 
to  the  governor’s  palace  with  a body  of  his  countrymen,  as  a preliminary  to  all 
negotiations  about  sparing  a city  then  completely  at  his  mercy,  is  much  to  be  re- 
gretted. The  question  was  one  which  did  not  interest  the  Court  the  least,  and 
the  citizens  of  other  places  would  rather  have  rejoiced  to  see  the  pride  of  the 
Cantonese  brought  down;  Yihshan  and  his  colleagues  with  all  their  pride, 
would  hardly  have  thought  the  matter  worth  a moment's  delay. 

It  was  so  local,  that  the  Chinese  commissioners  at  Nanking,  having  never 
been  at  Canton,  seem  not  to  have  given  it  a thought, — at  least  they  did  not 
agree  in  plain  terms  that  foreigners  should  enter  its  gates,  or  that  of  any  other 
of  the  five  ports,  and  nothing  in  that  treaty,  nor  in  those  of  the  Bogue,  W?ng- 
bia,  or  Whampoa,  can  be  construed  as  promising  it  even  by  implication.  The 
idea  which  a native  would  derive  from  reading  those  four  treaties  is  that  foreign- 
ers have  permission  to  reside  at  the  five  ports,  in  the  places  where  trade  is  carried 
on,  the  term  kidng  kau,  or  river's  mouth,  referring  to  the  location  on  shore  where 
traders  collect  from  their  ships  to  barter  and  exchange  their  goods.  Such  places 
are  not  necessarily  walled  in,  nor  are  they  ever  called  ching , i.  e.  citadels  or 
walled  cities,  and  resort  to  the  former  lias  no  reference, — certainly  does  not 
include  ingress  into — the  latter.  The  phrase  is  varied  in  the  treaty  of  Wham- 
poa to  kau  shi-  fau  tifnug,  i.  e.  seaport  market-places,  so  as  to  restrict  the  residence 
of  French  citizens  where  trade  is  carried  on.  To  a Chinese,  the  terms  kidng 
kau  and  ching  involve  a distinction  which  they  do  not  at  first  sight  to  a European, 
and  before  the  Chinese  government  is  taken  to  task  for  breaking  the  treaty, 
it  is  well  to  ascertain  what  they  understand  by  it.  On  his  arrival  here  from  the 
north,  K lying  probably  supposed  it  would  be  easy  enough  to  carry  out  the  rea- 
sonable proposition  of  Sir  Henry  Pottinger  to  allow  British  subjects  the  same 
liberty  here  that  they  had  at  the  other  ports.  But  he  found  an  unexpected  op- 
position from  the  people  as  soon  as  he  moved  in  the  matter,  and  was  obliged 
toconfess  to  the  British  plenipotentiary  in  July,  1843,  that  he  must  defer  any 
efforts  to  carry  out  the  matter  until  the  port  was  opened  according  to  the  new 
regulations. 


1840 


Journal  of  Occurrences,  277 

The  question  was  next  mooted  hy  the  Americans  (for  in  M.  La<rren£  s treaty, 
signed  sixteen  months  after  the  letter  of  Kiying  to  Sir  Henry,  there  i9  no  re- 
ference to  it,  and  perhaps  the  commissioner  suggested  the  different  phraseology 
above  quoted  to  render  the  place  of  residence  more  precise),  by  the  consul  trans- 
mitting a communication  lie  had  received  upon  the  subject,  to  which  Kiying 
sent  the  following  reply,  which  has  been  kindly  furnished  us. 

Kiying  goveriior-geiieral,  Ac.  &c.,  and  Hw&ng  the  liiyueu.  Ac.  make,  i li is  reply.  Whereas  the 

said  Consul  has  communicated  that  inasmuch  as  K a citizen  of  Ins  Country  had  addressed 

him  a communication  earnestly  requesting  to  knew  whether  it  might  ho  permitted  him  at  hi* 

option  to  go  into  the  city,  be  forwarded  to  us  a copy  ol-  the  original  uddre^s  tof  Mr.  li ) and 

prayed  we  would  id  a just  and  equitable  muiinor  decide  the  matter.’  These  having  come  before  us 
the  minister  and  lieui-governor,  we  bave  perused  and  fully  understand  them  ; wo  have  investiga- 
ted the  propriety  of  p rmitting  the  nieichanu  and  citizens  of  different  nations  w ho  have  hithei  to 
come  to  China  to  trade  at  the  several  ports  to  enter  the  [pioviuciul|  cities  Originally  this  sub- 
ject was  not  contained  in  the  articles  of  Treaty  negotiated  and  settled.  Therefore  at  Fuiichau, 
iNingpo,  and  Shanghai,  it  happening  that  foreigner*  enter  those  cities  and  wulk  about  lor  rec- 
reution  without  impediment — while  at  Canton  entering  the  city  is  still  prohibited  foreigners, 

there  is  some  propriety  iu  that  for  which  R earnestly  petitions.  But  the  circumstances  of 

the  different  places  are  not  the  same,  so  that  we  cau  not  apply  the  same  rule  of  reasoning  to  all. 
At  Kiangn&u,  Chehki&ng  and  the  other  provinces,  the  people  have  been  [distinguished]  hither- 
to for  their  gentlemanly  and  complaisant  dispositions  and  good  breeding,  and  the  local  officers 
once  having  oidered  them,  there  is  no  disobedience  to  their  authority,  therefore  foreigner  desno 
to  enter  the  c ty.  and  the  local  officers  having  allowed  it,  the  people  say  naught  to  (ho  contrary. 
But  the  people  ofCanton  are  of  ferocious  disposition,  and  the  good  and  evil  are  uut  alike,  and  if 
the  laws  ure  contrury  to  their  inclination,  then  they  do  not  regard  them.  Now  hithei  to  they 
have  not  wished  foreigners  to  be  permitted  to  enter  the  city,  and  the  officers  ol  government  cun 
not  force  them; -thus  wo  have  shown  the  disposition  of  the  people  is  not  the  same.  In  Kiangucui 
and  other  provinces  they  are  just  commencing  tiade,  aud  therefore  foieiguers  are  now  begmuiug 
to  go  there,  and  to  outer  the  city  is  not  regarded  strange  to  the  people  ; at  Canton,  trudo  has 
beeu  carried  on  lor  more  than  three  centuries,  and  there  has  never  been  this  business  ol  foreign 
are  entering  the  city,  aud  now  if  it  be  permitted  of  a sudden  to  enter  41(10  city,  the  stupid  peo- 
ple seeing  it  for  the  first  time,  there  must  be  surprise  among  them — and  not  only  the  insurrection 
thut  may  spring  up  can  not  be  fathomed,  but  still  more  do  we  apprehend  the  arising  of  an  occasion 
of  dispute,  the  consequences  of  which  are  not  trifling;  thus  we  6ee  that  the  circumstances  of  [ the 
different  provinces]  ure  not  the  same.  Consequoully  from  late  years  und  onward,  Cushing,  the 
ambassador  of  the  United  States,  the  English  envoys,  Pottinger  and  Davis,  and  the  French 
ambassador  Lagreu£,  who  were  all  intelligent  men,  and  saw  through  matters,  and  thoroughly  un- 
derstood the  reason  of  things,  whose  taleuts  and  abilities  distinguished  them  from  the  multitude, 
have  superintended  judiciously,  and  harmoniously  disposed  of  the  great  subjects  v\  hie h concerned 
the  two  nations,  and  have  never  as  yet  entered  the  city  of  Canton.  We,  the  minister  and  lieul.- 
povernor,  have  uever  lei  go  our  careful  grasp  und  watchfulness  over  the  public  business  of  the 
different  nations,  having  a desire  for  justice  and  peace. 

Thai  it  is  only  at  ('anion  we  dare  not  precipitately  permit  foreigners  to  enter  the  city,  has  not 
escaped  our  view,  and  we  have  endeavored  to  consider,  while  it  will  answer  to  permit  going  into 
the  cities  iu  Kiangnftu,  Chehkinog,  and  the  other  provinces,  aud  not  that  of  Canton,  how  can  there 
be  distinctions  of  light  and  heavy,  thick  and  thin  (how  can  there  be  impartiality J in  this? 
It  is  right  that  we  illustrate  it  by  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  C anton  has  some  dissimilarity  to 
the  other  provinces.  In  those  the  merchants  reside  together  like  the  radii  of  a circle,  the  greater 
put t in  the  c*ty,  aud  therefore  the  suburbs  do  uoi  equal  the  wealth  of  the  city.  At  Caulou  the 
shops  and  markets  are  comparable  to  the  teeth  of  a comb,  the  many  residing  in  the  suburbs, 
therefore  those  in  the  city  on  the  contrary,  do  not  equal  the  ti  ust  worthy  muss  without  its  walla. 
If  the  Chinese  people  who  reside  in  the  city  desire  to  trade  to  advantage,  they  must  also  neces- 
sarily go  out  of  the  city  to  do  their  business,  aud  this  they  can  do,  aud  still  be  able  to  to  add 

something  to  their  capital.  From  the  petitions  of  R it  appears  he  has  not  yet  been  able 

fully  to  understand  the  slate  of  things  in  the  provincial  city  of  Cautou.  As  to  going  into  the 
city  to  visit  friends  the  idea  is  very  well  in  itself,  but  this  forming  friendships  between  people 
wbo  reside  in  the  city,  and  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  belongs  to  private  interviews. 
Moreover,  the  number  of  such  men  being  exceedingly  am  til  how  can  they  wish,  for  the  sake  of 
private  intercourse,  to  go  iu  opposition  to  public  sentiment,  causing  themselves  to  be  a subject 
of  conversation  and  ridicule  to  the  thousands  and  myriads  of  the  flowery  people? 

We.  the  minister  and  lieutenant-governor,  have  spoken  out  of  our  hearts  without  a syllable 
of  sophistry,  and  as  is  proper,  we  reply  aud  make  it  known  10  the  Consul  that  he  transmit  his 

edict  to  the  said  merchant  R that  he  accordingly  conform  thereto,  aud  quietly  attead  to  Ins 

own  duty,  carrying  on  trade,  when  he  must  certainly  obtain  a threefold  profit.  Special  reply. 

The  foregoing  reply  is  sent  to  Forbes  the  United  States  consul  for  his  approval. 

M aukwang,  25th  year,  2d  moon.  14th  day.^lst  March,  1845  ) 

A second  reply  was  received,  April  13th,  in  which  their  excellencies  go  into 
an  argument  upon  the  question,  showing  that  they  regarded  the  right  of  entrance 
hardly  worth  the  trouble  of  obtaining  with  so  much  difficulty,  and  proving  to 
their  own  satisfaction  that  it  would  bring  with  it  no  substantial  benefits. 

K iying,  governor-general,  Ac.,  and  Hwang,  lieut  -governor,  herewith  reply  concerning  business. 

It  appears  that  the  said  Consul  has  a laid  statement  befoie  us,  requesting  that  people  of  the 
outside  nations  may  be  allowed  to  enter  the  city  at  will,  in  order  to  tbe  maintenance  of  mutual 
goodwill,  and  hoping  that  in  titers  relating  thereto  ought,  at  au  early  day,  be  at  ranged.  We  have 
examined  tuto  this  mutter,  und  accordingly,  on  a former  occasion,  Utd  oik  sUiemuul*  ta  ordsr 


•278 


Journal  of  Occurrences. 


May, 


before  the  said  consul,  and  huve  already  given  the  reasons  for  not  permitting  entrance  into  the 
city,  clearly  noting  the  same  in  our  reply.  We.  the  high  mimmer  and  lieut-governor  have 
now  on  consecutive  days,  held  interviews  with  the  gentry  and  scholars,  and  closely  examined 
into  the  disposition  of  the  people  concerning  the  question  of  people  of  other  nations  entering  the 
city,  and  find  it  would  be  impossible  to  permit  it.  and  therefore  are  unable  to  go  in  direct  opposi- 
tion to  the  deliberations  of 'he  multitude  by  crookedly  complying  with  th.it  which  the  said  consul 
solicits  The  merchants  of  the  United  Stales  coming  to  Canton  to  trade  have  in  the  highest 
degree  been  faithful  and  correct,  never  interfering  with  the  happiness  ol  the  people,  nor  causiug 
their  gold  and  precious  things  to  leak  out,  nor  forcibly  laying  hold  of  the  people’s  supplies.  How 
cun  we  the  governor  and  lieutenant-governor  but  fully  appreciate  this  ? 

But  for  these  several  hundreds  of  years  at  Canton  no  foreigner  has  ever  entered  the  city. 
And  moreover  we  have  settled  a Treaty  of  commerce  with  the  envoy  Cushing,  in  the  seventeenth 
Article  of  which  it  is  definitely  stipulated  where  the  merchants  of  the  United  States  are  to  cad 
anchor,  and  to  find  dwellings,  only  allowing  them  to  remain,  and  to  walk  about  at  places  near 
at  hand  not  permitting  them  to  go  at  will  and  without  buxineas,  far  aw.iy  into  the  interior  : 
if  therefore  they  be  aUowed  toeuter  into  the  city  when  they  please,  how  can  this  be  but  a viola- 
lion  ol  this  seventeenth  Article?  Still  further,  it  is  cleirly  noted  in  the  fourth  Article  that 
the  consuls  and  other  officers  cannot  follow  the  bent  of  their  own  wishes,  leading  to  excitement 
and  much  bickering  botween  the  officora  and  people  of  tiie  Middle  Kingdom,  and  words  to  this 
effect—  all  of  whicn  is  iu  the  highest  degree  clear  and  equitable  Upon  examination  u is  found 
that  the  old  regulations  and  the  terms  of  the  Treaty  harmonize  [in  preventing  entrance  into  the 
city]  and  it  is  moreover  contrary  to  the  will  of  the  people.  The  said  Consul's  wishes  not  having 
been  met,  he  agaiu  vigorously  takes  hold  of  the  matter,  which  is  violating  the  moaning  an  l 
design  of  the  [4th]  Article.  He  states  it  as  exceedingly  desirable  that  at  Canton  there  he  the  same 
usuges  observed  as  at  the  other  open  ports: — this  too  wo  our-elves  verily  desire,  but  in  each 
province  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people  both  good  and  bad,  widely  differ;  it  js  difficult 
to  make  completeness  out  of  the  unspotted  anil  the  particolored,  and  it  is  more  difficult  to  change 
the  existing  state  of  things  VVe  regard  the  Canton  people  as  a combative,  kidnapping,  thieving 
*et,  there  being  none  like  them  m Kiangukn,  Chehkiaug  and  the  other  provinces  ; and  such  prac- 
tices being  more  detestable  than  all  insults  aud  deceptions  combined,  and  for  which  the  govern- 
ment has  inflicted  rigorous  punishment,  and  iu  the  severest  terms  forbidden  for  these  several 
hundred  years.  We  also  are  constantly  seizing  and  condemning  the  vicious,  aad  in  this  way 
we,  the  governor,  Ac  , h ive  dealt  with  well  nigh  one  thousand  in  number,  but  all  as  iormerly 
fails  to  change  the  wickedness  of  the  obstinate  people  and  make  them  good.  How  then  can  this 
single  matter  of  foreigners  entering  the  city  by  order  from  the  authorities,  be  able  to  effect  the 
change  of  the  customs  here,  and  cause  them  to  run  in  the  same  chaunel  as  at  the  other  ports  * 

It  is  ulso  mated  by  the  consul  that  one  cause  of  the  Canton  people  disliking  foreigners  is  their 
not  beine  allowed  to  enter  the  city,  and  words  to  this  effect.  This  too  is  not  the  case.  True,  many 
offices  of  the  authorities  are  within  the  city,  but  those  also  which  are  outside  are  by  no  moans 
few — inside  the  city  there  are  residences  of  the  gentry  and  the  rich,  and  outside  are  the  sum-. 
By  no  means  can  it  bo  said  that  the  dwellers  within  the  city  are  honorable,  aud  those  outside 
ignoble  Rich  men  and  honorable  are  in  various  places  in  crowded  marts  and  quiet  villages 
although  they  may  not  enter  the  city  in  all  their  lives,  yet  the  people  do  not  regard  them  lightlv 
on  that  account.  Poor  aud  a'so  low  class  people,  with  *treel  sellers  bearing  their  burdens,  daily 
enter  the  city,  yet  they  are  not  on  that  account  respected.  Certainly  there  is  no  honor  connected 
with  entering  the  city,  and  not  entering  the  city  brings  no  disgrace.  The  people  of  the  United 
States  come  to  Canton  only  for  purposes  of  trade,  and  the  landing-place  and  marts  tor  mutual  buy- 
ing aud  selling  are  all  outside,  not  within  the  city.  Public  documents  pass  to  and  from  the  con- 
suls and  the  local  authorities,  aud  no  impediments  exist  in  consequence  of  the  former  being  out- 
side the  city;  aud  when  public  business  is  to  be  transacted  fuce  to  face,  the  local  authorities  find 
no  difficulty  in  going  forth  heyond  the  gates  to  an  immediate  interview.  In  going  into  the  city 
there  is  no  advantage,  in  not  going  in  there  is  no  Injury — not  an  item  of  importance  whether  of 
injury  or  advantage,  honor  or  disgrace  is  connected  w ith  the  matter  The  Treaty  does  not  graut 
it  and  moreover  the  disposition  of  the  people  render  it  impracticable.  The  said  consul  should 
turn  off  his  wishes,  and  change  his  designs  on  the  subject,  and  not  simply  comply  with  the  ideas 
of  his  mercantile  countrymen,  following  their  desires,  and  giving  rise  to  broils — then  will ‘lie 
compreheud  the  fundamental  principle  of  the  matter.  Let  there  be  no  opposition.  Special  reply. 

Tkukwaog,  25th  year,  3d  moon,  7lli  day  (13ta  April,  1845). 

Five  days  after,  the  same  officials  addressed  a note  to  Sir  J.  Davis,  in  which 
they  speak  of  going  into  the  the  city  “ for  holding  a consultation  by  joint  con- 
sent;” and  Sir  John  tells  his  countrymen  “ he  is  determined  (with  the  approval 
and  support  of  H.  M.’s  government)  to  place  Canton  in  this  respect  on  a footing 
with  the  other  four  ports  but  neither  of  them  refer  to  the  privilege  as  having 
been  promised  by  the  Treaty  of  Nanking  or  the  Bogue.  The  question  remain- 
ed in  abeyance  until  Jan.  1846,  when  the  restoration  of  Chusan  was  demanded 
by  the  Chinese,  in  consequence  of  their  having  paid  up  the  twenty-one  millions 
of  dollars.  In  a note  to  Kiying,  Jan.  22d  (see  Vol.  XV,  p.  63),  Sir  John  Davis 
says,  “in  Art.  XII.  of  the  treaty  of  Nanking,  it  is  expressly  provided  that  the 
islands  of  KulangsO  and  Chusan  will  continue  to  he  held  by  H.  M.’s  force,  until 
the  money  payments,  and  the  arrangements  for  opening  the  ports  to  British 
merchants,  be  completed.”  We  think,  as  K lying  understood  Article  XII.,  he 
must  have  read  this  sentence  as  having  reference  only  to  the  money  payments 
just  completed,  for  in  his  view,  all  the  ports  (the  kiting  kau)  had  already  been 
opened  to  British  merchants.  Five  days  before  this  note,  Sir  John  officially 


1841). 


Journal  of  Occurrences. 


27‘J 


proclaimed  that  Kiying  had  recognized  the  right  of  entry  into  Canton,  “ accord- 
ing to  the  Treaty,  and  the  pledge  given  by  him  in  July,  1843;”  but  if  either  of 
those  documents  as  published  contain  such  a recognition  in  the  original,  they 
should  have  been  differently  translated  ; this  proclamation  is  given  in  Vol.  XV. 
page  61,  and  an  edict  addressed  by  Kiying  to  the  citizens  of  Canton  and  their 
reception  of  it  described,  and  some  remarks  upon  the  wording  of  the  treaty.  May 
18th,  1846,  it  was  announced  that  “ the  autograph  assent  of  the  Emperor  of  Chi- 
na having  been  obtained  to  a public  instrument  executed  between  H.  M.’s  Ple- 
nipotentiary and  the  Chinese  Minister,  subject  to  the  final  approbation  of  the 
Queen,  in  which,  among  other  stipulations,  the  previously  questioned  right  of 
entry  to  Canton  city  is  conceded,  and  established  under  the  Emperor’s  own 
hand,  and  the  exercise  of  that  right  is  agreed  to  be  postponed  only  until  the  po- 
pulation of  Canton  shall  be  more  under  the  control  of  the  local  government, — 
this  is  to  make  known,  that  the  island  of  Chusan  will  be  immediately  made 
over  to  the  Ciiinese  officers  appointed  to  receive  it,  and  Her  Majesty’s  forces  will 
be  withdrawn  from  that  post  with  all  practicable  speed.” — China  Mail. 

This  document  was  referred  to  the  home  government  by  Sir  J.  Davis,  and 
in  April  of  the  next  year,  decided  measures  were  undertaken  by  the  Hongkong 
civil  and  military  authorities  to  “ place  Canton  on  a footing  with  the  other  four 
ports,”  the  progress  and  result  of  which  are  given  in  Vol.  XVI.  pages  182 — 203, 
and  247 — 256,  to  which  our  readers  should  refer  in  this  connection.  The  feelings 
of  the  Cantonese  became  greatly  interested  in  the  question,  and  the  whole  popu- 
lation more  determined  to  guard  what  seemed  to  be  an  object  of  such  estima- 
tion in  the  eyes  of  the  English.  The  engagement  entered  into  between  Kiying 
and  Sir  John  Davis  was  never  ratified  by  the  emperor,  so  far  as  we  have  been 
able  to  learn  ; the  only  allusion  to  it  by  his  majesty  is  given  in  the  above  re- 
ference. On  this  we  think  the  question  turns,  so  far  as  the  charge  against  the 
Chinese  government  of  violating  Treaty  engagements  can  be  maintained,  for  the 
proviso  in  the  compact  of  May  1846,  nullifies  it  until  the  population  of  Canton 
are  more  under  control.  K:ying  made  an  arrangement,  some  of  whose  stipula- 
tions were  to  be  carried  into  effect  immediately,  some  of  them  indefinitely,  and 
one  of  them  in  two  years  ; but  no  ratification  of  it  was  made  by  his  master.  Of 
its  seven  articles,  the  1st  and  4th  have  not  been  fulfilled,  the  2d  and  7th  partial- 
ly, and  the  other  three  fully.  Perhaps  the  home  government  had  a reference  to 
this  non-ratification  in  its  late  instructions  not  to  force  an  entrance  into  Canton. 

When  the  paragraph  on  page  112  of  the  present  volume  was  penned,  we  sup- 
posed a ratification  had  been  received  from  Peking,  which  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  the  case  ; and  further  investigation  has  convinced  us  that  the  right  of 
entrance  into  the  citing,  or  walled  cities,  is  not  given  to  foreigners  in  any  of  the 
treaties.  The  grant  of  entrance  at  four  ports  is  no  ground  for  forcibly  asserting 
the  right  at  the  fifth.  We  think  the  letter  and  the  spirit  of  the  treaties  of 
Nanking,  WanghH,  &c.,  have  been  fulfilled  better  than  was  expected  at  the 
time  they  were  made,  considering  this  people  and  the  circumstances  under  which 
they  were  signed  ; and  we  should  be  very  sorry  to  see  the  peace  now  existing 
jeoparded  for  a question  like  that  of  entrance  into  Canton.  We  would  not,  how- 
ever, have  it  rest  where  it  now  does  (even  if  that  was  likely),  for  considerable 
evidence  could  be  adduced  to  show  that  the  Cantonese  are  persuaded  that  the 
conquest  of  the  city  is  the  real  object  of  these  efforts  to  enter  it,  and  this  misap- 
prehension should  be  removed  ; but  we  should  be  glad  to  see  Her  Majesty’s  ple- 
nipotentiary go  to  Tientsin  with  a few  steamers,  and  make  a full  representation 
of  the  case,  and  bring  it  to  an  issue  with  the  supreme  government ; and  if  the 
envoys  of  other  nations  would  join  in  such  a move,  so  much  the  better,  for  the 
oftener  the  Court  is  brought  into  contact  with  foreign  powers  the  better  for  all 
parties.  It  is  more  desirable  to  put  the  rulers  of  this  land  at  issue  with  their 
own  people,  than  to  have  altercation  with  the  latter.  "If  the  central  government 
could  be  convinced  by  these  troubles  of  the  desirableness  of  having  foreign  min- 
isters reside  at  Peking,  and  sending  its  representatives  to  the  great  Western  pow- 
ers, the  question  of  entry  into  Canton  will  have  worked  out  a national  good. 

The  rewards  conferred  by  his  majesty  upon  the  local  officers  have  been  receiv- 
ed at  Canton,  and  the  following  rescript  circulated  in  handbills  through  the  city. 


280 


Journal  of  Occurrences. 


On  the  7th  inst.  the  Privy  Council  received  the  Imperial  rescript,  as  follows  , " Since  the 
commencement  of  the  foreign  affair  about  ten  years  ago,  there  has  been  constant  trou- 
ble along  our  maritime  borders,  with  diminution  of  revenue,  and  annoyance  to  the 
troops;  and  though  latterly  there  has  been  a little  more  quiet,  the  mingling  of  severity 
and  gentleness  in  the  mode  of  ruling  them  has  not  kept  the  foreigners  contented,  and 
they  have  every  now  and  then  broke  forth  with  their  petty  discontents.  We  have  deep- 
ly felt  for  the  afflictions  and  oppressions  of  our  subjects  along  the  coasts,  and  have 
patiently  forbore  towards  them,  knowing  from  the  character  of  humin  nature  thata  trifling 
exaction  now  would  produce  a great  reaction.  Recently,  the  governor  Stt  ar.d  his 
colleague  have  several  time  memorialized  Us  relating  to  the  repeated  requestor  the 
English  to  enter  the  city  of  Canton,  and  staling  that  he  would  manage  the  matter  with 
a due  regard  to  justice  and  expediency ; now,  a living  dispatch  has  reached  Us,  stating 
that  the  merchants  of  the  place,  fully  understanding  the  demands  of  patriotism,  have 
subscribed  funds  to  protect  the  city  from  injury,  and  that  the  gentry  have  lent  their  best 
assistance  in  the  emergency,  and  that  the  question  of  entering  the  city  is  now  laid  at 
rest.  The  said  foreigners  now  carry  on  their  business  as  usual,  and  both  natives  and 
foreigners  are  at  peace,  without  our  losing  a soldier,  or  brandishing  a spear.  The  said 
governor  and  fuvuen  have  quieted  the  people  and  soothed  the  foreigners,  everywhere 
maintaining  and  establishing  the  dignity  of  their  rule,  causing  these  foreigners  to  be- 
come obedient  without  exerting  the  least  severity  or  constraint,  so  that  there  will  now 
henceforth  be  mutual  harmony. 

“ The  congratulations  and  joy  of  our  heart  can  hardly  be  expressed,  and  as  is  right  we 
confer  proportionate  rewards  to  recompense  such  extraordinary  merit.  In  order  to 
show  our  great  regard,  let  So  Kwangtsin  receive  the  title  of  Viscount,  transmissible 
to  his  heirs,  and  a two-eyed  peacock’s  feather  be  given  him  ; and  the  reward  of  the  title 
of  Baron  be  conferred  upon  Yeh  Mingchin,  transmissible  to  his  heirs,  and  the  decora- 
tion of  a peacock’s  feather.  Let  these  two  officers  also  examine  into  the  cases  of  their 
coadjutors,  Mutiyan,  the  commandmt,  Urantai  and  Toyantungak.  the  lieut.-generals  of 
the  troops,  Hung  Ming-hiang  and  iiiang  Lin,  generals,  who  with  united  zeal  and  energy 
well  fulfilled  their  official  duties,  that  their  merits  be  properly  rewarded  according  to 
military  regulations,  and  let  the  Board  of  War  deliberate  upon  and  report  it  for  Our 
approval.  As  a special  mark  of  favor,  Let  Hu  Siangkwang  be  appointed  to  the  first 
vacancy  of  intendant  that  occurs,  whether  it  be  one  of  great  responsibility  or  not.  Let 
Wu  Tsungyau  (Howqua)  be  appointed  to  the  first  vacancy  of  U'mg-chung  or  gentleman 
usher,  and  let  his  name  be  handed  in  to  the  Board  of  Civil  Office  as  a candidate  for 
the  first  vacant  intendancy,  to  be  chosen  either  in  an  odd  or  even  month  ; and  let 
both  these  persons  receive  a button  and  girdle  of  the  third  rank.  Let  SQ  and  his  col- 
league also  select  those  among  the  civil  or  military  officers  in  Canton  who  have  exerted 
themselves  most,  and  report  thereon  according  to  their  merits,  when  they  will  wait 
until  We  confer  favors  upon  them. 

“ As  to  our  people  of  Canton,  whom  every  one  knows  to  be  so  brave,  and  who  have  late- 
ly showed  so  much  intelligence  and  patriotism,  and  such  courage  and  knowledge  in  their 
precautionary  measures,  mainly  because  of  the  more  than  martial  guidance  and  influence 
of  their  rulers  joined  to  their  own  heaven-directed  spirit;  not  a fear  is  felt  that,  among 
their  mvriads,  any  will  be  found  whom  gain  can  corrupt  or  power  can  alienate.  Can 
We  ever  call  to  mind  such  meritorious  devotion  and  cooperationwith  out  our  heart 
being  sensibly  pained  with  the  obligation?  Let  So  and  Yeh  proclaim  our  words  till 
every  house  and  family  shall  fully  know  them,  and  this  will  still  further  encourage  a 
spirit  of  zeal  and  loyalty  for  the  public  weal,  and  cause  all  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  pros- 
perity and  peace;  let  them  also  make  a graduated  report  of  the  efforts  put  forth,  so 
that  we  may  know  how  to  give  our  thanks  and  in  what  places  to  confer  a meritorious 
tablet,  that  they  may  derive  great  glory  therefrom,  and  not  the  least  favor  be  withheld 
from  the  deserving  ; thus  will  the  desires  of  our  heart  be  quieted.  Let  all  these  things 
be  attended  to  as  here  directed  by  the  proper  Board  (viz.  of  Civil  Office).  By  his 
Majesty’s  command.” 

The  governor  has  also  received  from  his  majesty,  one  archer’s  ring  with  the 
word  h{  (joy)  marked  on  it  four  times,  a white  gem  snuff-bottle,  a large  and  a 
small  pair  of  purses.  The  people  have  been  consulting  about  the  propriety  of 
erecting  a tablet  to  him  and  the  ffiyuen,  placing  it  up  in  one  of  the  public  offi- 
ces ; the  inscription  has  been  drawn  up  and  hawked  about  town. 

A new  hoppo,  named  Sohmingshen,  has  arrived  to  take  the  place  of  Kipfi. 

The  disturbances  in  Tsingyven  hien  have  been  brought  to  a close  by  the  govern- 
or, and  scores  of  deluded  or  exasperated  men  have  expiated  their  crimes  or  their 
follies  under  the  executioner’s  sword.  The  executions  during  the  past  mouth 
have  amounted  to  thirty-one,  seventeen  of  the  criminals  were  from  Tsingyucn. 


^ ,,  - 'T-'lj