MINNESOTA
HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS.
VOL. Yll.
^T r-
* 'i
■ .' , > » • ■
vac
Hon. J. V. Brower,
COMMISSIONER.
TiiK MISSISSIPPI ji[\n.:R
^nii f'fs
An Hiwi
^Ol H( K.
HON J V BfiH/WEM,
1 yMft'-SSiONER.
THE MISSISSIPPI IJIVER
AM) ITS
SOURCE.
All Histoiical and Illustiatod (U-offiaphk-al
Ilecoi-d.
* • •
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1 I I IC
MISSISvSIPPl RIVER
AM) \T>
vSOLJRCE.
A NAKRATIX K AND CRITICAL HISTORY OF THK DIS-
COVKRV OH THK RIVKR AND ITS H KADW ATKRS.
ACCOMI'AMKI) in THK RKSl'l/FS OF
DKTAILKI) HVDROdRAI'HIC AM)
ToPOCiRAPHIC SLRVKYS.
HY
HON. J. T. BROWEB,
Commissioner of the Itusai Stufe Park, represvnting al
the State Ilistoricul Societv. \j\
WITH AX APPE>JDIX ry^
HY ALFRED J HILL. ESO.
ILLUSTRATED.
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• • . .•
^XkKISON & SMITdr, StATE^PpiMTSRS.
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DETAILED HYDROGRAPHIC AN
ITASCA ST^
AT THB SOURO Ol
THE MISSISSII
STATE OF MIN
U. 8. A.
Prbparbo unosr Authokity ok Am A.ot oir thb Li
BY J. V. BROWER, CC
1893
Physical Characteristics.— Extensive heights of land fomiing a basin, the distinct curvature ;i"*k it. a
wth numerous lakes, streams and springs. The principal forests are of white, red, ydlow and Banks i^^^' '^
growth of diamond willow. The soil is a general substratum of sand and gravel, filled with large and ?^^ ? ''^t.
oine forests. The surface is particularly rough and broken, with a predominating appearance charac- ?i^*''
!he forests, moose, bear, deer, fox, porcupine, oi:«r, mink, pheasants, etc., abound. The nearest »l
;OGRAPHIC AND TOPOQRAPHiC CHAKT
OS* TBD
STATE PA^RK
AT THB souRca or
MISSISSIPPI EIVER
STATE OF MINNESOTA
U. 8. A.
KITY Oir AJC A.OT 0» THB LBOI«I.ATUI'Je, Al>PltOVBZ> APRIX. BOTH, 1801
BY J. V. BROWER, COMMISSIONER
1893
1
let curvature x'
IT and Banki
ith laige and
-ancecharac-
The nearest
of which can be best obaeri'ed from Rhodes Hill or Aiton Heights. Dense forests abound, interspersed
pine; cedar, balsam fir, tamarack, spruce, maple, ash, elm, basswood, aspen and oak, with an unhmited
small boulders, covered with only a slight mould formation, such as usually characterizes a region of
teristic of a picturesque wilderness. The waters are stocked with northern varieties of fish; and in
accessible points to the Park can be reached by the Northern Pacific or Great Northern railroad.
■=M;^ -^^s:" k^S^'"^^.
«■ ■''/'l,l\
:OHTH
■thf
^^^tm
I
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n
m
QEOORAPHie POSITION.
Noara LAirniBB tr Sanouaurr ItLum,
LONCrrUDSWVTPBOIlG. AT "
Noam LATmiMi at Baoi
Loiwmii»WB«Tra«i&AT '
Dmtuicb num nn arATS Catitol, ovatlnd
U'41'-
tf'l/i
Ba*t fbom Wot
NiHini nam Seom "
DUTAIKB noM t«c Statk CAFnOL hf tkc
ni—iil «f tt» ItliiliiUiiit MTtr, . 7. .
DittAiics noM Tu Cia* or Mmco bgr the
P*OM GOLV TO BIC LaKB,
Pu« G«« TO Hbao or Bogrmix Cusk, .
Pmm G<n» TO Mabt Lakb,
rwou Gnv Ts HaAo or Howaui Ciius, . .
rmem Go* to Gsbatbi Ultimats tatmmnm
m On Smbc* ortht tlliiliilnl Um, . .
PioM OoLT re SovTs Sbmb Hmume bb
Sam Lao, at thi Tiiimi Unit oT »»■
MS
7S
>s«
•dS-iS
ORiaiNAL DMCOVEMES.
Bauust raoaAau Occdtaiitb,
Bakuot Kitoim NATins, . . . Siou: AnlnibtilM; Qilbww.
FiuT Kunnf or Wair* Mm, . wniiiB Uanfmm, Oof.
FiurAinaBincDncimBV.Itm . .
»mty R. Scbooknft, tljs.
Jam N. Nkallit, i«|t.
Jalias CkaabBt, itr*.
B(Mb S. HaII. it»
Hapcwril Cteka, dK
SacomAuiBSvnc DiaoowtTtftte-
dpAlSmoB
TMmD AuiMKiic Dmoitbilt, BIk
FomTa AuTaKinc DnoomiT, U.
S. Sanwjr,
Stxra AUTHnfTic Dimxivsst> 8w*
m>»wnn ia«<irk«l««dityri
lliae* auM rwk Lnr, . . .
J.V.
COI
ITAKA LAFI
Bu Lass,
Hkoixvt's
Tb« Nicou
Makv Lakb
Tb> Twin 1
Niooixsr^
Joonmn I
Turn lima
SmLAm Li
Wiatrma I
WnmsL.
TmsI
\
I #
IIES.
AnliiibolM;Qiib«r.
UUuB MorriMi^ laai.
r R. Scbeolenft, itjt.
Fen N. NkalM, itgC
F«ltn Ckaabtn, ityi*
Edwins. H*ll,lt)s
lopcwril Onto, i«6.
r. V. »nmm, m», 91.
CORRECTKO ALTITUOCS ABOVE THE
SEA LEVEL.
iTuc* Lw*, i4sr i
Bu Lakb, I4SI
NlCOLLVT*S MlDDLS LAKB, l,46l
T«B NicoLurr SnuMG*. jjt
Uamt Lau, 1.4M
Tbb Twim LJUOSf 1,495
NieouxT^ Uma Lass, ,496
Dasubb Lacs, 1,513
}oanma Ijun, jis
Tms llnsuum Snuiiai^ 1,555
Smuurr Lasb, 1,54^
•'uuToia Mom L*sb, ij4l
. • dSi
I Raoume ds loTe Uunii . . ijaV
Tbb •oiuiT or nn lUvtaim hi Tau^ . , . tost
OPnCUL AREA.
(v. •. tusnnrj
Sicnam 6, 141, 35, Hrauio Comnv, . . 4))
Su.1 una 6, 7, H, n, 3D Md 51; Mil 5% Hb»
■«•» OMnrrr jA
Sicnom I, t, t aad 4; M*. A Bacsn
CeuMTT, m6s
SicnoM I, « ), 4, » ic, u. n. 13. 14. <S,
l<tn, ••,q,i4,>S.iN>r, «.31.S4,3S
■■d iC: 14s, 36, Bbltbahi Coowtt. . . ijAt xi-no
T«imTir«nrB SqoAas Miui, . . iM« <|m
liwiM or ruK, 7
Won • • (tacUoMl), 5
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PREFATORY KOTE.
The authorities of the Government of the United States, upon
the acquirement of Louisiana, then constituted in part by the
territory afterwards set apart as the State of Minnesota, took
steps to discover physical features at the source of the Missis-
sippi river. The steps thus taken were continued from time to
time, until 1836, when the foundation was laid for a scientific
report of great value, in which was described, the principal afflu-
ent to Itasca lake. '
That that scientific report, adopted as a part of the official record
of a great Government, should be questioned upon untenable
grounds, without a scintilla of evidence, save only the bare state-
ment of an individual, is not, in itself, an extraordinary event:
but when public records and educational interests are contamina-
ted and a deception practiced upon the citizen, by that statement,
it became a duty to eliminate from the record whatever may be
found to be false, and to confirm and acquiesce in, whatever
may be found to be true
Solely upon the broad ground that geographical facts should
not and must not be made subservient to the selfish and personal
individual interest the present report has been made.
To follow the channel of the Mississippi river to its utmost
source in search of geographic facts, it became advisable to know
of the historical record concerning discoveries from the mouth of
the river to its source.
The examination of these records, co-extensive with the history
of the discoveiy of the coast line of North America, imposed a
duty requiring great care and labor. Ex,, linations in the field
at the source of the river have been accomplished with the
same great care and labor, that has been exercised in the field
of historical research. The results attained are combined and
Viii THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
classified, in the trust that the record of this labor may be a
benefit to luy fellow man. In submitting the results of this
labor in this volume, the hope is expressed that the facts found
and recorded may outweigh the errors of judgment, which
undoubtedly exist.
The formal dedication of the Itasca Basin to be perpetually
used as a public state park, its legal status having been amply
recognized in a grant of lands by the congress, is one of the
benefits of this examination, in advance of the publication of
these results, under the official auspices of the State.
To Mr. Alfred J. Hill, who ri'ndcred most valuable service in
the field of historic research, and to Mrs. Georgiana Demaray,
Rev. J. A. Gilflllan, and many others, for valuable assistance
and material, I owe and tender sincere acknowledgments.
J. V. B.
St. Paul, Minnesota, .January, 1803.
Classification ()f Suh-Divisions aiul roiitcnts.
Pase.
SUH-DlVISION FlUST 1
Preliminary Memorandum and Communications.
Suu-Di VISION, Second 5
Tlie Report. Preliminary Considerations; Geologic Fea-
tures; Reser/oir System: Mode of Procedure.
Sun-Div'isioN Third 14
Wliat Constitutes Discovery. Tlie Spanish Accounts;
Pineda; Espiritu Santu Bay; Narvaez; Cabeza de Vaca; De
Soto; Apportionment of Credit: Cartographical Results of
De Soto's Expedition: Conclusions Drawn; Do Luna.
Sub-Division Fouhtii 38
The French Accounts. The Papal Bull; Jacques Cartier;
Champlain; Sieur Jean Nicolet; Raymbaultand Jogues:
Groseijl jjrs and Radisson; La Salle on the Ohio River;
Joliet ciud Marquette.
Sub-Division Fifth 69
The French Account, Continued. La Salle on the Illinois
River: Hennepin and His Companions; La Salle on the
Mississippi; Iberville: Sagean and Le Sueur; Charleville;
Minor Reports as to the Source of the Mississippi.
Sub-Division Sixth 96
Early Territorial Claims; Extent of Canada and Louisiana;
Transfer of Louisiana by France to Spain; Boundary be-
tween French and English Possessions; Western Boundary
of the United States; Transfer of Louisiana by Spain to
Franou; Cession by France to the United States of America;
Indian Occupancy, Traditions and Wars; Captain Carver's
Travels; The Journey of David Thompson.
Sub- Division Seventh 119
The Fi-st Known of White Men at Ellc Lake; The Name
Defined; William Morrison; The Only Record of His Voy-
age to Itasca Lake in 1803: Lost Note Books.
X THE MISSISSII'IM UIVEll AND ITS SOUUCE.
Pii(?e.
Srn-DivisioN Eiuiitu .. 125
Lieuteiiiint Z. M. Pike's Ex|)t;dltU»n in 1TO5-6: He Reaches
the Mouth of Two Rivers and Erects Block Houses; Huf-
falo, Elk and Deer Hunt: Sledge Journey to Leech Lake;
The British Flaj?; Indian Warfare; Killed at York.
SuH-DivisioN Ninth 130
The Louis Cass Expedition; Throujfh Lake Superior; Camp
at Sandy Lake; Voyage Down the Mississippi From Casa
Lake.
Sub-Division Textii 135
J. C. Beltrami: Civil, Military and Judicial Pursuits; The
Countess of Albany; An Exile; Hero Worship; Voyajje to
America: Thirst for Geographical Discovery; Voyage Up
the Minnesota and Down the Red Hiver; At Pembina:
Beltrami Reaches Red and Turtle Lakes; Locates the
Source of the Mississippi at Julia Lake; Doe Lake; Suc-
cored by Chippewa Indians; Researches of Mr. Alfred J.
Hill; Beltrami County.
Sub-Division Eleventh 142
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft: He Accompanies Gen. Cass in
1820; Proceeds to Lac La Biche in 1832; Selects the Name
Itasca; Discovers the Lake: Schoolcraft Island; Ozawindib.
Sub-Division Twelfth 152
A MiliLiiry Escort: Lieut. James Allen and Detachment
Accompanies Schoolcraft: His Observations and Report.
Sub-Division Thiut^enth 155
Nicollet's Scientific Explorations: Astronomical Abilities;
An Exile From France; Map of the Sources: Employed by
the United States; Details of His Voyage to Itasca Lake;
Discovers Five Creeks; Describes the Larger as the Infant
Mississippi; A Cradled Hercules: Discovers Three Lakes;
Confusion of Location; Ideas as to the Source of a River.
SuB-DivisioN Fourteenth 166
The "Dolly Varden" Expedition to Itasca Lake; Julius
Chambers Visits Elk Lake and Declares it the Source of
the Mississippi; Observations and Explorations by a Rep-
resentative of the New York Herald.
CLASSIFICATION OF SUBDIVISIONS AND CONTKNTS. XI
Sub-Division FiKTKKNTii I'l
omclal Action by th«' Authorities of the Land Dcpart-
nit'nt of the I'nitcd States: How p:ik Lai<e was Finally
Named. Ortlcial IMats Certilled and Approved.
SUU-Dl VISION SiXTKENTH 1"4
Edwins. Hall's (lovernnient Survey: His I'arty Reach the
Itasca r.asin: Mi-ander of I^li< and Itasca Lal<es: Ortlcial
Corners and Land Marks.
Sub-Division SEVKNTEEXxn 1"^
The Rob Roy Expedition: A. PL Siejjfried and Companions
Reach Itasca Lake: They Visit Elk Lake and Photograph it;
The Party Designate Elk Lake the Hijjhest Tributary to
the Mississippi; Wm. Morrison Designated as the
Seen of White Men at the Source.
Sril-DlVISION ElOIITKENTII 182
Geolojjic and Botanic Examination at Itasca Lake by ().
E. Garrison; Lost at the Little Man Trap; He Reaches Elk
Lake; Portage to Itasca: Camp on Garrison Point: Itasca
Lake Coasted.
SuB-DivisioN Nineteenth 186
Early Visitors to Itasca; Charles Laniuan's Claim; Allan
Morrison.
SuB-DivisioN Twentieth 188
Sojourn of Rev. J. A. GilHllan's Party at Itasca Lak
Whipple Lake Named: First Sermon at the Source; An In-
teresting Epistle.
Slb-Division Twent\-Fii!ST 191
The Glazier Fiasco; An Indian Map Distorted; Hunger
and Haste; A Fictitious Source; Plagarism Personified; His
Claims Shown to be Founded on False Statements, Dis-
credited by Geographical Societies and the Congrts Inter-
national.
SuB-DivisiON Taventy-Second 210
Pioneer Settlement at Itasca Lake; Peter Turnbull and
Family; The Second Coming of Civilized Occupancy.
SuB-DivisiON Twenty-Thikd 213
The Relation of Henry D. Harrower, and of Ivison, Blake-
man, Taylor & Co.; Survey of the Basin by Hopewell
Clarke.
aril THK MISSISSIPPI UIVEU AND ITS bOUHCE.
SUH-DlVISI((N TWKNTV-FOUKTII 218
The Assistant SiiiHTintftirlcnt of Public Instruction for
Miniics(»ta at Itasca: He Descr-iht's th«» Lake and its AHIu-
cnts.
SlJH-DlVISION TWKNTV-FlKTIl » 224
Tho Definite Action of the Minnesota Historical Society
as to the Source ()f the Mississij)|)i; Report by (Jen. Jann!s
H. Baker Adopted: Appoitituient of a Comniissi«»ner
Ordered, to Delliiitely Survey and Locate the Source.
Sun-Di VISION Twenty-Sixth 227
The Casual Examination of .1. V. Hrower and Companions;
The (Jreater Man-traj) Basin: The party arrive at Itasca
lake and Explore the Source.
SUluDlVISION TWKNTV-SlCVENTlI Z12
The Itasca State Park: Thirty-five S(iuare Miles of Terrl
tory at the Source of the Mississippi Forever Dedicated to
the Public; A CV»mmlssii»n appointed, anrl a Topographic
Survey Completed: A Final Chart.
SUllDlVISION TWKNTV-ElOIITII 235
The Detailed Examinations and Survi-ysof the Source of
the Mississippi river, Conducted Under the Personal Direc-
tion and Supervisi(jn of J. V. JJrower, Commissioner.
The Coxclusion.s of the Commissioneu 293
Memokandim Considkkations 297
APPENDIX.
How the Mississippi river and the Lake of the Woods became
Instrumental in the Establishment of the Northwestern
Boundary of the United States 305
INDKX TO ILL^STI^VTK^XS.
Portrait (if Mif aiith«»r Frontlr^plooe
Orticial chart of the Itasi-a Statt' Park Frorilispicc*'
Pane.
Map of tht> Mississippi river, by J. V. Urower, I'^Ol 5
Extract from Cortes' cliart sent to Charles \', I'liO 19
I'ortrait of Hernando de Sot<» 24
Diajrrani showin>jthe principal names and distances (lea^'ues)al()np
the north shore of the Gulf of Mexico, drawn from the descrip-
tion by Oviedo, in 1537. by Alfred J. Hill, 1891 28
Earliest type of map showinir the Valley of the Mississippi, from
atlas of Ortelius of loHO 33
Second type of nuip showinj< the Valley of the Mississippi, from
Sanso' "s map of North America, 16J6 35
Reduction from Orontins Fines' >,'lo>»e. ir)31 .37
Portrait of Sieurde la Salle M
Joliet'sraap of the Mississippi, 1674 67
Part of Carte de la Nouville France et de la Lousiane. Reverend
Pere Louis Hennepin, 16S3 78
Part of Carte du Canada, on de la Nouville France. D»; L'Isle, 1703. . 90
Part of Carte des Noiivelles de'Convertes a L'Ouest de la Nouvelle
France, Dresse Siirles Memoires de Mr. Del'lsle, 1750 93
Part of a map of Canada. JetTerys, 1762 113
Map drawn from a plan of Captain Carver's travels in th( interior
parts of North America in 1766 and 1767 115
Portrait of Capt. Jonathan Carver 116
Portrait and autograph of William Morrison 119
Portrait of Mrs. Georjfiana Demaray 121
Portrait of Gen. Z. M. Pikt; 125
Extract from Lieut. Z. M. Pike's chart near source of the Missis-
sippi, 1805-6 127
Portrait of Gen. Lewis Cass 131
Section of a map showing the track pursued by the expedition
under Gov. Cass in 1820. By Henry R. Schoolcraft 133
Portrait of lieltrami 135
Extract from Beltrami's chart, 1828 139
XIV THK MISSIh»Sli>i>l HIVIgU AND IT'S HOUKCE.
Piiiro
P«»rtnill and autoKruph of llfiiry H. .Schuolcruft 142
Portrait of Ilev. W. T. Uoutwfll 144
Sketch (»f thf sources of the Mlssissl|)pl River. Drawn to ilhistraU;
Schoolcraft's Inland journey to Itasca Lake, lH:i2 144
Portrait of Mrs. .lane Schoolcraft . 146
Sources of the Mississippi Uiver. I)rawn t(» Illustrate Schoolcraft's
discoveries, by Cai)taln S. Kastman, U. S. A. Ih.V) 148
Schoolcraft's map of Itasca Lake, the source of the Mississippi
Kiver, .'t,l({0 miles from the liallze, asmodltled In 1855 from map
of 18:{2 ]'>0
Portrait (»f Jane Schoolcraft Howard 151
Kxtractfroni Lieut. J. Allen's Map, 18:}2., 153
Portrait and Autojjraph of .1. N. Nicollet 155
Extract from topographical map of the sources of the Mississippi
and North Red River, from actual astronomical observations
and surveys In IS.'Wi and 18:{7, by J. N. Nicollet Ifil
Portrait and auto>jraph of .lulius Chambers 1H8
Sketch map of the Itasca Lake region, by Julius Chambers, 1872. 1«8
Portrait of Gen. J. H. Baker 171
The official plat (reduced scale), 187B 172
Portrait of Mr. Edwin S. Hall 174
Portrait of Mr. A. H. Siegfried 17P
Portrait of Mr. O. E. Garrison 182
Portrait of Mr. Charles Lauman 186
Portrait of Rev. J. A. GilfUlan 188
An Indian map of the source of the Mississippi, drawn by She-na-
wi-jfl-shlck, an Ojibway Indian, 1890 193
One of the Glai'.ier maps, 1881-t) 199
The Glazier map of 1891 207
Portrait of Peter Turnbull and family 210
Portrait of Mr. Hopewell Clarke 213
Hopewell Clarke's map, 1886 215
Portrait and autojfraph of Prof. T. H. Kirk 218
Portrait and autograph of J. Fletcher Williams 224
Portrait of John Leyendecker 227
J. V. Brower's sketch map of Itasca Lake, 1888 229
Portrait of Gen. John B. Sanborn 232
A map of the upper drainage basin of the Mississippi River above
Pokegama Falls, by J. Y. Brower, 1892 235
Detailed Hydrographic Chart of the ultimate source of the Missis-
sippi River, by J. V. Brower, Commissioner, 1891 235
The Itasca Basin from the summit of Rhodes Hill 238
INDKX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. XV
l'Htf««.
Vi»'w at th«' ri«trth «'Xtn'tnlty (if Ttii-^fji Laki' 244
Vlfw at Schoolcraft Island frotii the west shore of Ituitca Luku. .. 240
View at the cast arm (»f Itasca Lake 2.M
View at Mary Lake 254
FroHlcoi' t'N'vatloris above sea level from Park Rapltls. Minn., t(»
Itasca Lake 257
View at Elk Lake 258
View at east shore of Little Klk Lake 360
View <»f Nlc((llet*s Itilatit Mississippi ]{iver llowioK into Itasca
Lake . . 262
View r>f Chainher's Creek flowin>r into Itasca L ..^e 263
View of the Coiiimissioner's Camp at Nicollet's Springs 269
View at Morrison Hill 270
View showinjf the Mississippi Kiver (lowintf out from Nicollet's
Middle Lake 272
Sketch map of Natural Hridjje l)etween Nicollet's ITpporand Mid-
dle Lakes, by J. V. Hrower, 18H2 273
Profile (»f elevations above sea level from Itasca Lake to Hernan-
do de Soto Lake 274
Sketch map of the Mississippi Springs and Whipple Lake, by J.
V. brower, 1892 276
View at Morrison Lake 280
View at Nicollet's Middle Lake 284
Portrait uf Mr. Alfred J. Hill 289
View at Bn;wer Island, Hernando de Soto Lake 293
APPENDIX.
Diagram Chart of limitary lines, drawn by A. J. Hill, 1892 337
Outline map of the Lake of the Woods, reduced from Canadian
surveys 340
Part of the Mitchell map. of 1755. 343
View at FortSnellinn; 352
SlB-mVISTOX FIRST.
PREi;iMINARY MEMORANDUM AND COMMUNI-
CATIONS.
On the 12th day of February, 1889, the Minnesota Histori-
cal Society determined to cause a survey of the source of the
Mississippi River, and for that purpose issued the following
Commission under the seal of the Society :
St. Paul, Minnesota, Feb. 12th, 1889.
To J. V. Broioer, Esq., St. Paul, Minn.
Sir: — Reposing especial confidence in your ability, integ-
rity and good judgment, the Minnesota Historical Society
together with other similar Societies, who may unite with
us for this object, does hereby appoint and commission you
to make a careful and scientific survey of Lake Itasca and its
surroundings, with the view of determining by a thorough
examination of the spot and of all its physical features, un
der all circumstances, what is the true and actual source of
the Mississippi River.
We therefore request you to select such a corps of assis-
tants as you may need to properly carry on such survey and
proceed to Lake Itasca, prior to the opening of spring, co
take the necessary observations with the above object.
On the completion of your survey, you will please make a
report to us of the result of your investigations.
On behalf of the Minnesota Historical Society.
Henry H. Sibley, President.
[seal] J. Fletcher Williams, Secretary
2 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
Agreeing to the requirements as stated in the Commission
of the Society, a formal letter of acceptance was submitted,
as given herewith, to-wit :
St. Paul, Minnesota, Feb. 27th, 1889.
Hon. Henry H. Sibley, President, J. Fletcher Williams, Es(j.,
Secretary, Minnesota Histmncal Society.
Gentlemen: — I have the honor to acknowledge the re-
ceipt of the Commission of the Minnesota Historical Society,
under seal, dated the 12th inst., directing me to make, on
behalf of the Society, a careful and scientific survey of Lake
Itasca and its surroundings, with the view of determining by
a thorough examination of the spot and all its physical fea-
tures, under all circumstances, what is the true and actual
source of the Mississippi River.
I believe questions of importance touching geographical
and historical researches, should be considered and deter-
mined regardless of individuals, and I shall most carefully
endeavor to scientifically demonstrate the actual facts as I
shall find them in the Itasca Basin, calling to my aid a corps
of assistants, undergoing the hardships and privations of
visiting the remote locality in search of the facts.
Very respectfully, Your Obedient Servant,
J. V. Brower.
On the 28th of August, 1889, the Commissioner reported
progress to the Society, in a formal communication as fol-
lows :
St. Paul, Minnesota, Aug. 28th, 1889.
Gen. H. II. Sibley, President, J. F. Williams, Esq., Secretary,
Minnesota Historical Society.
Gentlemen : — Referring to my Commission of date Feb.
12th, 1889, directing an examination and survey of the
Itasca Basin for and on behalf of your Society, I beg, most
respectfully, to advise you of the progress and condition of
the work at this time.
The necessary labor to properly and accurately determine
the question and fulfil the requirements directed in the com-
mission, constitutes a laborious task which may be briefly
stated as follows :
First. To ascertain, by astronomical observations, the
geographical position of the basin.
PKELIMINAHY MEMORANDUM AND COMMUNICATIONS. 'i
Second. To ascertain, by a system of actual levels in the
field, the extent and outward limits of the water-shed, con-
stituting the basin at the source.
Ti>ird. The establishment of a i)ase of operations from
which all measarements must be made and computed.
Foiirth. The meander of several lakes by latitude and de-
parture.
Fifth. The meander of running streams within the basin.
Sixth. The official meander of Schoolcraft Island, directed
and authorized by the Hon. Secretary of the Interior, under
date of Aug. 2nd, 1889, acting upon my application to the
Department of the Interior dated March 19th, 1889. It has
taken nearly five months time to secure this authority from
the Department at Washington.
Seventh. An accurate measurement of the unmeandered
portion of the Mississippi from Itasca Lake, northerly, to
the meandered line of the government survey in order to
correctly determine the distance from the sea, in miles, by
the channel of the river to Itasca Lake.
Eighth. A line of actual levels in the field across the
country from the railroad surveys of the State to Itasca
Lake and up the trough of the basin which determines the
elevations above the sea more accurately than with the ane-
roid barometer, which has been found to be very unreliable.
Ninth. The measurement of every running stream within
the basin.
Tenth. Topographical examinations in the field through-
out the whole extent of the basin. A necessity of no small
proportion.
Eleventh. Photographic views.
Twelfth. A scenic map of the basin in perspective. ^
Thirteenth. A detailed hydrographic chart of the entire
locality from the field notes.
Fourteenth. Detailed charts indicating particular localities
and conditions.
Fifteenth. The miscellaneous labor necessarily attending
a survey of the character you require, the field of operations
being one hundred miles beyond the railroad system of the
State, and more than thirty miles from the permanent
frontier settlements.
Sixteenth. The office work placing this mass of informa-
tion in proper order for the use of your Society.
1. Omitted for the reason Ihat uiiiivoidahle errors appear in the final draft
which cannot now be adequately corrected.
♦ THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE
Seventeenth. Historical researches concerning the discov-
ery of the Mississippi and its source, co- extensive with the
record of the discovery of the coast line of North America.
I commenced operations, under your commission, the 4 th
day of last March and I will make my detailed report to the
Society in the month of December, 1889, everything com-
plete to the best of my ability, trusting that it may prove
satisfactory. The field work is well along towards comple-
tion, the necessary ofi&ce work, of course, comes at the clos-
ing of operations in the field, to a considerable extent. The
relatives of the late Wm. Morrison are furnishing me with a
detailed memorandum of his residerce near Lac La Blche, in
1803, and the only living relative of Henry R. Schoolcraft
has promised me, by the first of September, a valuable contri-
bution touching the discoveries of Mr. Schoolcraft, in 1832,
at the source — which may constitute an interesting appendix.
Assuring you that this work shall be completely and accu-
rately reported, and awaiting your gicknowledgement of the
receipt of this communication, I remain
Very respectfully, Your Obedie c Servant,
J. V. Brower.
At the regular monthly meeting of the Society for Decem-
ber, 1889, the historical researches necessary to an adequate
completion of the formal report, were unfinished, and the
submission of the same was, for that reason, deferred.
On the 10th of February, 1890, at the rooms of the Execu-
tive Council of the Society, the Commissioner reported all
the steps taken by him, by virtue of his appointment, and
submitted his formal report which treated of the subject in
every point of view.
In the following chapters, this report is given entire, with
material additions, ^ deemed paramount in preparing the
report for publication, for which purpose the same was re-
ferred back to the Commissioner by the Council of the His-
torical Society.
1. The report has been edited for publication by the Commissicner and includes
detailed information taken from all field notes reduced, up to and including topo-
graphic examinations and surveys, which were completed in 1S92. for and on behalf
of the State, of which the Historical Society Is a co-ordinate branch.
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SFB-T)TVTSIOX SE( OND.
THE l^EPORT.
<»
PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS, GEOLOGIC FEA
TURES, RESERVOIR SYSTEM, MODE OP
PROCEDURE.
To the Society:
With the view of determining what is the true and actual
source of the Mississippi river, historical researches, detailed
surveys and examinations have been made with results as
noted in this report.
Sub-divided and classified, these results are respectfully-
submitted.
The suggestion, long since made, that "all our rivers have
their source in the clouds," might well be discussed in con-
nection with that invisible, demonstrative cause, which
creates the movement of the waters on the face of the earth,
by evaporation and precipitation, without which, human life,
as now constituted, would perish. The precipiLationof nearly
twenty- four inches of water per annum upon most portions
of the earth's surface, when considered in its enormous
capacity and influence, well suggests a thought of that dis-
tinctive, distributive power, which causes the precipitation.
e THK MISSISSIPPI lilVER AND ITS SOURCE.
The invincible rule of nature which outpours unlimited
quantities of water upon a surface above the level of the sea,
re(iuires channels of exit that it may seek its level. Those
channels are of greater age than humanity itself. That life is
dependent upon these causes, and the effect, creates the desire
to discover and know specific particulars. Within the
limited sphere of a temperate zone, encircling the earth by
an isothermal demarcation, the capacity for minute observa-
tion is intensified. With this intensity, there is slight cause
for complaint if predominant influences tend toward the ac-
quirement of greater knowledge, particularly so, upon dis-
puted points. He who comes last, not always least, might
well consider opportunities for conservative, unimpassioned
consideration and research. It should be his duty to inquire
by what authority, under whose auspices, and for what pur-
pose, have mankind acted in discoveries, and the true re-
sults noted will be the history of the case. In an examina-
tion for the correction of apparent error of judgment, or of
ulterior purposes, state the whole question, that he may
himself be weighed in the balance in ascertaining the cor
rectness of conclusions on the part of others.
Such are, briefly stated, an indication of thoughts enter-
tained when the question is suggested: What is the true and
actual source of the Mississippi river ?
The great drainage basin of the Mississippi river extend-
ing from the Gulf of Mexico to the northern limits of the
United States, and from the Alleghany range to the summit
of the Rocky mountains, covers an area of more than one
million square miles. The river itself is known by two prin-
cipal designations — the Upper and Lower Mississippi — the
mouth of the Missouri river constituting the dividing point.
PUKLlMIN'AliV CONSIDKUATIONS. 7
By acceptation, if not otherwise, the Missouri river» is
considered an affluent of the Mississippi, thus obviating a
consideration of the (jucstion of the length of the Missouri,
in arriving at a conclusion as to the source of the Mississippi,
at this time.
Then comes the question as to what is the source of a river.
Authorities have conflicted upon this point, and in pro-
ceeding to a definite conclusion upon the question considered,
the ultimate limit of the dminage basin consfitutiiuj the water-
sJied of the Mississippi river, farthest from the Gulf of Mexico hij
the main channel of the river, shall be considered to be the true
soiirce. In reaching the utmost limit of that channel, partic-
ular and definite action should be taken to determine the sup-
ply of water within the bowl, from which it has its first incep-
tion. That supply must be the ultimate source, though, in
the case of the Mississippi river, the flanks of the ultimate
water-shed have, by nature, been formed into a se-i^i-circular
basin of irregular formation, having for its principal reser-
voirs, two large bodies of water, one at the pit of the basin,
from which the main stream flows, the other at the summit, at
a much higher elevation, from which is di-^ A'n a constant sup-
ply, by subsidiary channels, to the reservoir below, by in-
filtration, percolation, seepage and perennial surface flowage,
all of which is supplied by secular aerial precii)itation.
Thus is formed a principal reservoir at the pit of the basin
through which all the flowing water passes to the main
stream, and an ultimate reservoir at the summit of the basin,
supplying the streams and lakes below it, still above the pit
of the basin. Between these two principal remote reser-
1. The question as to the predominance of the Missouri river over the Upper
Mississippi is more particularly adverted to in other portions of this report.
8 THK MISSISSIlM'l UIVKK AND ITS SOUKCE.
voirs, the adjustment of thoc[Uostion requiitul to bo answered,
rests. Thus an easy question to ask, is a difficult one to
answer.
Researches as to the original formation of this ultimate
reservoir system and its discovery, difficult and long delayed,
have been taken up with more than ordinary care and pa-
tience, and the results, accompanied by a critical examina-
tion of the physical features of the locality, are submitted in
the hope that they may prove beneficial, though not without
the expectation of just criticism.
TliM length of the Mississippi has been carefully ascer-
tained, and the Itasca basin is the most remote water-shed
upon the main stream, from the mouth of the river at the
Gulf of Mexico, the existence and con('it^ons of the Missouri
river, being more particularly h0r9ini.it* sr considered, upon
an editing of this report for publication.
CJEOLOGIC FEATURES.
Prof. N. H. Winchell, of the Minnesota State University,
and Prof. Warren Upham, of Boston, Mass., (Mr. Upham
visited the Itasca basin in September, 1889) have been con-
sulted as to the geologic features of the source of the Missis.
sippi. and from these gentlemen a general idea of geologic
formations has been obtained, and to them full credit is due
and awarded in furnishing a basis for opinions herein
expressed, concerning the same.
All the country about Itasca lake, consists of the glacial
and modified drift, the nearest outcrops of the bed rocks be-
ing eastward on the Little Boy river and southward, near
Motley, on the Crow Wing river. The thickness of the
prift at Itasca, may be estimated between one hundred and
two hundred feet, from comparison with the similarly cov-
PUKLIMINAKY CONSIDERATIONS. 9
erod drift areas of tlu^ Rod River Valley, ' and all western
and southwestern Minnesota, including the Cofcait (hs PrairicH,
where the depth to the bed rocks is ascertained by wells.
Over the prej^lacial surface as it has been sculptured into
hills, ridges and valleys, by stream erosion before the ice
ago, the drift is found to be spread with a somewhat uniform
thickness, but it is generally increased fifty to seventy-five
or one hundred feet in its depth upon belts of specially hilly
and knolly deposits, with abundant boulders, properly des
ignated as terminal moraines.
One of the most distinct morainic belts, denominated the
Itasca moraine, extends with a width of five to ten miles
from the Pokegama falls on the Mississippi river a little less
than one hundred miles east from Itasca lake, south of Poke-
gama and Leech lakes, westward to the Little Man Trap and
Josephine lakes and the southern arms of Itasca lake, curv-
ing around Hernando de Soto, and Morrison lakes at their
outward limit, thence it bends to the northwest and north
between the source of the Mississippi and the source of the
Red River of the North, and continues northward between
the Upper and Lower Rice lakes to Clearwater lake, from
which it passes westward along the south side of Clearwater
and Lost rivers, entering the area of the glacial lake Agas-
siz, between Maple lake and Red lake. This is the tenth in
the series of moraines in Iowa, Minnesota, South and North
Dakota, formed by the last ice sheet that overspread this
region, marking its boundary in its maximum area, when it
reached south to Des Moines, and in successive stages of
halt or slight re-advance, interrupting its recession.
1. The Red Klver of the North.
10 THE MISSISSII'I'I UIVEU ANU ITS SOURCE.
The Itusca moraino in an irr»'j;ulai'. luuivon, })articularly
rouj^h uiul Vjrokon raiij?o of hills, portions of which are cov-
cied to a ^n>ator oi" loss oxtont, at the summit, with larj^e
and small i)oiild«'rs. which oxt(>nd down the slopes in loss
fjuantities near the surface. Numerous lakes abound, usually
with muddy bottoms, the surface elevation depending upon
precipitation, variously influenced by evaporation, infiltra-
tion and percolation to bodies of water and streams lower
down the sides of this morainic formation. Stony ridge,
near the Little Man Trap lake, some six miles south of Itasca
lake, no doubt, is the southern border of the Itasca moraine.
It consists of small ridges of till, trending from southeast to
northwest, with very plentiful boulders, Archfcan in char
acter, from the northeast and north, chietly granite and
gneiss. No limestone boulders were observed, but in the
vicinity of the "White Earth agency and about Red lake they
form a considerable portion of the drift, having been brought
by glacial currents from the region of Lakes Winnipeg and
Manitoba. Along the wagon road reaching from Stony ridge
to Mr. Peter Turnbull's cabin on the east shore of the east
arm of Itasca lake, irregularly grouped morainic hills rise
on each side, especially so along the outlines of Mary valley,
where they often reach the height of two hundred feet above
the surface of Itasca lake, the road winding, climbing and
descending over them. Many empty hollows, very properly
called kettle holes, well known as characteristics of morainic
deposits, are seen. Several similar hollows, but of larger
area and greater depth, contain a series of picturesque lakes
throughout the entire extent of the Itasca basin, the surface
elevation of which ranges from one to more than one hun-
dred feet above the surface of Itasca lake, in descending
I'UKLIMINAUY CONHIDKUATIONS. 11
ordor. from south to north. Theso hik«»s fill doprossions of
tho drift. Itasfu hike, doubtless, owes 'ts existence to ^'n»at«r
Ihickness of the drift in the valley at the mouth of the lake
and for several miles down the Mississippi, rather than to
greater prominenct* of the underlying ro(!k there. But the
great valley, one himdred to two hundred feet deep and two
to four miU's wide, in which lie Itasca lake and the Missis-
sippi river, northward to Craig's Crossing. ' and to its rapids"
over boulders in Sec. H, T. U4, K. 3(5; also the similar, but
smaller, valleys of otlun- streams, successively tributary to
tho Mississippi, from tho south, b««tween Itasca lake and
Bemidji. ' existed as distinct topographic features of the
country before the glacial p<>riod and were then occupied by
streams flowing in the same northward direction as now.
It is improbable, however, that Minnesota or any part of
the Northern states then had any considerable number of
lakes, their I'ondition in this respect having been like that
now found in the Southern states beyond the limit of the
glacial drift. Let what may be the foundations for the for-
mation of Itasca lake^ and its placid, uninterrupted continu-
ance with the grandest river of this continent, as its only
outlet, there would be no Mississippi river at the Itasca
basin, perennial in character, without the characteristic sys-
tem of elevated reservoirs which nature has constructed
there, supplied only by precipitation, and the reserved suj)-
1. Nine miles north of Itasca liike.
2. Ka-Ka-hl-Kons rapids.
3. The Ojlbway pronunciation Is Bem-e-jig-e-mug.
4. The physical condition of the region of the source was formerly barren, and
the causes which formed the Uoclty mountains and the Alleghany range consti-
tuted the Mississippi basin and features at the source. Volcanic action not at
present visible there, whatever may be the Indications and probable results, will
not be discussed. At the date of the formation of the Itasca basin, remote, un-
known and uncertain. It is doubtful If animal life could then have existed there.
unless in a perturbed and perilous condition.
^ THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
ply of water as gradually used as any mechanical contrivance
would make it possible.
The progressive discovery of the river and the reservoir
system at its source have been the subject of protracted study
and research, the results of which in the light of the occu-
pancy of the valley of the river by the governments of Spain,
France, Great Britain and the United States successively,
are here given, with due regard to the question of aborigi-
nal occupancy.
THE MODE OF PROCEDURE ADOPTED FOR THE RESEARCHES,
SURVEYS AND EXAMINATIONS.
The remoteness of the locality to be examined, the intri-
cate, dismembered and scattering lines of discovery from
the time the river was tirst seen of white men, and the grad-
ual acquirement of a knowledge of the river from its mouth
to the official survey of its source in 1875, made it desirable
to trace the history of discovery and briefly to note down
the facts as they have been found to exist, with a reproduc
tion of J Jl maps bf interest or importance, to which is added
occurrences happening at the source from 1875 to 1892. It
was projected that a list of the maps, records, histories,
journals, surveys, charts, letters, etc., which have been ex-
amined, would be made a part of this report. Inasmuch as
the documents and records mentioned, Spanish, French, Ital-
ian, English, and Indian, are almost innumerable, the list
would be but a burden to the record. A.11 obtainable items,
known to exist, touching the discovery of the river and its
source have been considered. In the field, ^ the work has
1. The survey and examination conducted for the preparation of this work,
were, first, in 1838 In the capacity of a private citizen, second, as a Commissioner
of the Minnesota Historical Society, and third, as Commissioner of the Itasca
State Parlf, cheerfully responding to the terms of authority indicated in a letter
irom the American Geographical Society, which covers a period from 1888 to 1892.
PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS. IS
been prosecuted in the manner indicated in this report.
Photographic views taken from nature, are used to illus-
trate a few of the most interesting localities examined.
SUB-DIYTSTON THIRD.
WHAT CONSTITUTES DISCOVERY: THE SPANISH
ACCOUNTS; PINEDA; ESPIRITU SANTO BAY;
NARVAEZ; CABEZA DE VAC A; DE SOTO;
APPORTIONMENT OF CREDIT; CARTO-
GRAPHICAL RESULTS OF DE SOTO'S
EXPEDITION; CONCLUSIONS
DRAWN; DE LUNA.
Before relating the manner in which the Mississippi river
became known to civilized men of European birth, a few
lines are necessary as to the definition of the word discovery,
when used in connection with the subject. Of course no
stream can be seen at more than one point in the same time
by the same man, nor has it ever been the case that a river,
when first visited, has been explored from its source to its
mouth — or vice versa. A less extensive acquaintance with
the course of a stream, however, through one or more visits,
is sufficient to entitle a man to the credit of its discovery.
Some men have in their wandorings in wild regions unex-
pectedly come upon a large river or other important feature
of the earth's surface, and have incidentally mentioned the
discovery without taking especial interest in it; whilst others
have deliberately planned journeys to ascertain the truth
about places whose existence had been rumored among the
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 15
natives, or places before visited but only partially explored.
The amount of merit to be accredited to each of these two
classes may be left to the casuist; for practical ^geographers
should rather interest themselves in the acquisition of scien-
tific truth.
Should, however, a navigator while on a coasting voyage
in strange seas, find among the various streams which he
passes the entry of a river which afterwards proves to be
the most important of the region drained by them, and yet
merely note it along with the others on his chart, without
topographical sign, written description, or appropriate name
by which to indicate its magnitude and draw special atten-
tion to it, is he worthy of being called its discove •■ in so
doing? An affirmative answer to the question would unset-
tle the general belief of the world on this subject.
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS.
Unless we believe that Hibernian missionaries as early as
the middle of the sixth century, or Welsh emigrants (Madoc)
about 1170, discovered North America, and that, too by way
of the Mexican Gulf, we may dismiss from our minds any
other idea than that Spaniards were the first men of the old
world whose eyes gazed upon the waters of the Mississippi
river. What Spanish man or party of men, is entitled to the
credit may be considered as uncertain. A desire for geo-
graphical discovery for its own sake was a passion rarely
present in the Spanish breast. When the river was first
seen it was doubtless at its embouchure, in the manner al-
ready described, and the appearance of the mud islands and
flats of the delta may not have been such as to tempt the
navigator to diverge from his general course in order to
explore its passes.
16 THE MISSISSIPPI UIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
The very earliest laap that can be cited as possibly show-
ing the entrance of the Mississippi River is a printed one,
known as the "Admirals Map," /. e., of Columbus, which has
been a subject of much speculation. Though it is well under-
stood to have been engraved as early as 1507, it was not ac-
tually published till 1513, who»' it illustrated an edition of
Ptolemy. On this map can be seen, to the westward of Cuba
and the peninsula of Florida, a large bay containing many is-
lands, with streams, etc., along the shore, duly named. Away
beyond the last of these names, at the southwest side of the
bay, appears a conspicuous delta, through which, by three
mouths, a large river empties itself into the sea. Thence the
coast stretches southward without salient topography or
name, till it turns and becomes the coast of South America,
on which, after a space, another set of local names com-
mences. Some writers have taken this northern topography
for a representation of Columbus' Ganges, but others for the
Gulf of Mexico and the Mississippi. If there be any local
meaning to this delta at all, it is, it seems to me, just as likely
to be intended to indicate either the Rio Bravo del Norte, or
the Panuco river, put down from hearsay. In this case the
River of Palms, seen at the center of the north side of the
bay, may be supposed to be the Mississippi i
1 Count F. A. de Vanihagen. one time embassador of Brazil to Portugal, made
a special study of tl>e life and voyages of Americas Vespucius, the results of whieli
were given to the world l)et ween the years 18(;4 and 1ST4. His view is that the so-
called first voyajie of tliis navijiator, upon wiiich so niueli doul)t lias been thrown,
uc'tually took place in 1497-8, but that It was made to N'ortli America and not to any
piirt of tlie soutlii'rn continent. lie thinks tliat tlie vessels of Vespucius, first
strikinir Honduras, followed the Atlantic coast to the northward as far as some un-
determined port (•■tlie finest in tlie world"), whence they sailed to the Bermuda
Islands, and thence liome. Tliis "Admiral's map," he thinks, was compiled from
much earlier ones, whicli had derived their Information from the reports of the
voyase. The River of Palms, shown on the map on the northern side of the bay,
he considers to have been intended to represent the Mississippi.
Varnhagen's ideas concerning the date and scope of thisfir>i voyage of Vespucius
have not met witli much favor until quite recently. John Fiske, in hisDUicovery of
THP: SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 17
In a royal dispatch, dated Burgos, 1521, there is a short
account of Francisco de Garay. governor of Jamaica, telling
how when he knew^ of the discovery of Yucatan, with its
riches and beauty, he determined to send out at his own ex-
pense " four ships with good pilots, under the command of
Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda, in the year 1519, with the object
of searching for some gulf or strait in the main land towards
Floridaii in which expedition they went eight or nine
months, but they never found it, seeing only, among other
low and barren lands, the country that Juan Ponce de Leon
had already discovered. They desired to coast along it to-
ward the east, but the continuous shoals and reefs, the con-
trary winds and the violence of the currents forced them to
turn around and to follow the direction of the coast to the
west, examining attentively all the country, ports, rivers,
inhabitants and the rest of the notable things until they met
with Hernan Cortes, who already occupied Vera Cruz on the
same coast. Arrived there, they marked the termination or
limits of their discovery, which extended more than three
hundred leagues, of which land they took possession for the
crown of Castile. Having taken this action they turned
back and penetrated a river carrying much water, at whose
entrance there was a large village, where they were more
than forty days, careening their ships and trading with the
natives on terms of much friendship and confidence. They
ascended the river six leagues and saw forty villages on one
America. 1892, has now come l)()l(lly forward in defense of them. However, he dif-
fers from Varnliaseii in tliinliin;! tliat it was tlio nameless delta referred t« in the
text wliieh was intended to represent the mouth of the Mississippi, and not tlie
River of Palms.
1 Where the word Florida occurs in this article without any qualification it must
be understood as meaning that country stretching all the way from New Spain on
the southwest to the possessions of the Portuguese (whatever they may have been)
on the northeast.
-2
18 TMK MISSISSIIM'r KIVKK AM) ITS SOUltCK.
banker the other. l\ was called the province of Amichel;'
a f^ood land, peaceful, lu-althy. provided with abundance of
food and fruits ; its inhabitants wonj many jc^welsof f^old in
ihoAr noses and ears ; th(!y were a kind people and disposed
to receive religious and political instruction. Their stature
varied in different provinces. In some they say that they
saw ji?i<^antic people, in others of ordinary stature, and that
in some were almost pi<^mies."
It will be noticed that th(i river is not named in this brief
narration, though on the outline chart which Garay sent to
Spain in 1520 tlie entrance of an apparently large bay is
seen, at about the center of the northern shore of the Gulf
of Mexico, with the name of Kiod(.'l Espiritu Santo, or River
of the Holy Ghost, attached to it. This river, there shown,
has been thought by many writers to have been intended for
the present Mississippi. Such a view, however, cannot be
generally accepted when it is considered that Pineda and his
people "examined attentively" all the various features of the
coast, of which the delta of the Mississippi is one, and also
when a certain topographical unlikeness is taken into ac-
count.
To find at tlie mouth of the Mississippi river a large vil-
lage and a beach suitable for the careening of vessels, or to
meet with forty villages on its banks within a distance of ti
little more than twenty miles, is impossible of belief by any
on<; who has ever seen that locality. The Pineda descrip
tion, indeed, might be applied with more justice to the Pearl
or the Pascagoula of the Mivssissippi Sound, or to the Mobile
1. Ill tC/.i'.Mlic Fn-iifli i!oiinii:iii<lt'r. IlxTvilU', iiiJido iilliaiu^e with various nsitivo
tribes of tin; };ulf I'li^ist. Anion;? seven luilioiis nicntioiicfi as living to tlie e.ast of
llie MissisHiilpi weie t lit' Aiiiili'oii. QiiiTy: May it not have been from tlit,' aiicos-
lors of til is peojile t liat Pineda, one hundred aud eighty years before, got the uuiuu
for this land lie called Anik'hel?
THK SPANISH ACCOUNTS.
19
and T<!nsus which ompiy inU) Mobile Bay, than to the groat
river itself. If it wore not for the particular doscription of
ono river only in this, th<i first writt<!n account of any part
of llie northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico, for the
placln*^ tlie Espiritu Santo about where the Mississippi
should be, and for the absence in the chart of any other
stream marked enouf^h to compete for the honor, it is doubt-
ful if any attempt would have been made to identify the two.
'?"'"'4!'y..,.
CO
El
20 THK MISSIKSiri'l ItlVKH AM) ITS SOURCE.
It may be remarkod in addition, that a map similar to the
Garay chart was made by Cortes' order, apparently about
the same time, and sent by him to Spain in ir):20, which, in-
stead of a mere sugrgestion of the entry, shows the Espiritu
Santo as an extensive bay with two streams at its head
reaching far inland. The shape of the bay on this map much
resembles that of the Bay of Mobile as now delineated on
poor maps of small scale; and, if it were intended to repre-
sent said bay, no great stretch of imagination would be re-
quired to recognize in the two tributaries emptying into its
head, the Tombigbee and Alabama rivers of to-day. It may
be reasonably assumed that the two charts were both com-
piled from information furnished by Pineda and his men.
The mouth of the P". dr Arret isos of the Cortes map may be
that of the Mississippi.
By this voyage of Pineda was the arbitrary and unnamed
line bounding the western sea in this direction, and appear-
ing on some of the earlier maps, proved to represent a
reality; and it was now definitely ascertained that at no
point between the discoveries of Ponce de Leon in the
Florida peninsula, and those of Cortes and his companions
on the shores of the Mexican dependencies, could the suji-
posed strait be found by which vessels were to pass to the
islands of Asia.
The next expedition was the one in 1528, also fitted out by
Garay, whi^.h was designed to — "conquer and govern the
provinces of the main extending from the river Palmas to
the Cape of Florida." This expedition was placed under
the command of Panfilo de Narvaez, "Governor of Florida,
Rio de Palmas and Espiritu Santo." The unhappy fate of
this party, whose destination was the farther side of the
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 21
ro«rion covered by the patent, is well known t« the liistorical
iN'uder. Narvaez had empl ed a pilot because lie jji-ofessed
to have been at the Palmas \er and to be well acquainted
with all the coast of the north; but ho failed to find the har-
bor he knew of, and when the ships came to the main land
it was on the western coast of Florida, where they had to
anchor in a bay unknown to him. After a council had been
lield on the best thing to be done, it was decided that the
main body under Narvaez's own command. • ' should march
alons the coast until they reached the harbor, and that
those in the ships should take a like direction until they
arrived at the same place." Thus the land and sea forces
parted and they never saw each other again. After suffer-
ing much hardship from excessive hunger and fatigue in
passing through a country difficult to travel in. the former
came to Apalache, an Indian town supposed to be not far
from the present Tallahassee. In view of the poverty of
the land, the unfavorable reports of the country beyond,
and the continual war made upon them by the Indians,
Narvaez determined to go in quest of the town of Aute —
now generally supposed to have been situated near the mod-
ern St. Mark's— and of the sea beyond it. When he arrived
it the coast nothing could be seen or heard of the ships; so
he ordered the construction of boats in which to continue
his journey by sea. They had but one carpenter among
them, and were without tools and the materials proper for
ship building, except the trees of the surrounding forests;
but to this forlorn band necessity truly became the mother
of invention. They erected a forge, making the bellows
from horse hides; and hammered out the necessary tools
from their no longer needed spurs and stirrups, and from
22 THF. NnSSlSSIPT>r KIVKK and its SOL'RCE.
iron takt'ii from their cross-bows and other things. The
manes and tails of their slain horses i)rovided the ri;?ging
and ropes; stones served for anchors, and out of their own
shirts they made sails. In forty eight days their five ves.sels
were comi>leted. which, when loaded with their provisions
and with about fifty men each, were so crowded that there
was no room in which to move. They left the bay on the 22d
of September, and coasted westward laboriously until about
the 31st day of October, when they arrived at some estuaries
where they lost two of their men — afterwards heard of by
the Soto forces as having been murdered by the natives.
This locality has been surmised to be the neighborhood of
Pensacola. The ensuing morning early, in spite of the
opposition of the Indians, the boats put to sea again. Their
next adventure, according to the letter composed some nine
years later by the two survivors of the expedition — or
rather according to Oviedo's version of it, for the original
is not extant — is contained in the following paragraph :
' 'And our people were ahead and went two more days, at
the end of which the boat in which the treasurer was arrived
at a point made by the coast, behind which was a river that
Howed broad and swollen from freshet; a little behind, the
boat of the governor and the others anchored at some is-
lands near by, and the treasurer went to them and made
known the discovery of the river. As they found no wood
with which to parch the maize they had been eating raw for
two days, they agreed to enter the river, of which they took
up fresh water in the sea; and on going near to it, the violence
of the current at the entrance did not permit them to gain
the land. While working to get to it the wind sprung up in
the north, and by it and the strong current they were put
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 23
out niore to sea. And they sailod tluit night and the next
day following,' up to night timo. when they found themselves
in three fathoms depth, and seeing that evening many smokes
cm the coast, they did not dare t > laud la the niglit time, and
anchored." ete.
Nunez Cabezade Vaca. who wa^ the treasurer referred to.
in the lldation that he .sent to CliarUis V the same year, uses
somewhat different words, vi/.. :
"We sailed that day until tiie middle of the afternoon,
when my boat, which was tirst. discovered a p;)int made by
the land, n- d against a cape opposite passed a broad river.
I cast anchor near a little island forming the point, to await
the arrival of the other boats. The Governor did not choose
to come up, and entered a bay near by in which were a great
many islets. We came together there and took fresh water
from the sea, the stream entering it in freshet. To parch
some of the maize wo brought with us, since we had eaten it
raw for two days, we went on an island, but finding no wood,
we agreed to go to the river beyond the point, one league off.
By no effort could we get there, so violent was the current
on the way. which drove us out while we contended and
strove to gain the land. The north wind which came from the
shore began to blow so strongly that it forced us to sea with-
out our being able to overcome it. We sounded half a league
out, and found with thirty fathoms, we could not get bot-
tom; but we were unable to satisfy ourselves that the cur-
rent was the cause of the failure. Toiling in this manner to
fetch the land, we navigated three days, and at the end of
this time, a little before ihe sun rose, we saw smoke in sev-
eral places along the shore. Attempting to reach them, we
found ourselves in three fathoms of water,"' etc.
21
THK MISSISSIIMT UIVKU AND ITS SOrUl^K.
Now it may W safely concludful tliat this Ijir^r river
which Ihoy could n«)t enter was on*- of tlie mouths of the
Mississippi of that time, for 1 he i>resent small delta, judj,'-
in*? by ^*>oloj?ical doctrin**, must hav»' b(H»n mostly built
up within the three hundn'd and tifty y«»ars or so, since
elapsed. To what point of the coast of tlie (iulf of Mexico
they were carried, however, is unknown, but it was un-
doubtedly somewhere within the limits of the present state
of Texas.
lIEBNANno I)E SOTO.
In a few years was consi«?ned to another, but hardly more
fortunate man, the task ol conquering: and settling the
'•Province of Rio de las Palmas to Florida," which had
proved so fatal to Narvaez and his people. This was Her-
nando de Soto, a man already renowned as a conquistador,
and now Adelantado of Florida
THK SPANISH At'COI'NTS. IP
With a Unx'o of some nim' hundred souls. In- lund(>d in the
month of May, UuV^, on Iho western coast of tho j)oninsuhi
t)l Florida, at a place that has almost uniformly boon
assumed to be the present Tiimpa Hay. After two years'
marching through portions of what are now the states of
Florida. Geor^'ia. South Carolina. Tennessee. Alabama and
Mississippi, tho expedition arrived in the neif^hborhood of
the Mississippi River. It was on Sunday, the Hth day of
May 1541 (old style), that they came to the first town of a
country called Quizquiz. and at two Spani.sh l<»a<?ues beyond
(or about seven miles), they saw the great river. Impressed
with its size, it being tho largest one that they had yet seen in
Florida, thoy called it liio Grande without other app(*llation.
On the L'lst the little army passed to a suitable spot on its
banks where they tarried four weeks, constructing large
boats and making other i)reparations to cross over to the
western side. The passage was safely effected on Sunday,
the 18th of June. The place of crossing was at some point
not very many miles below the present city of Helena, in
Arkansas. The river is described by one of their (chroniclers
—an eye witness — as being here a league and a half wide,
and the narrative says that "The stream was swift and
very deep; the water, always flowing turbidly. brought along
from above many trees and much timber, driven onward by
its force."
Though they followed a northerly course from where they
left the Mississippi at a point some four or five miles above
their crossing place, there is no direct statement of these
people seeing the river again until they went to it from the
native town or village of Pacaha, along a canal described by
them as of artificial make, and as being three leagues in
26 TFiK MISSrSSIPFM RIVKU AND TTS SOURCK.
lenj^th. They were in pursuit of the cacique, who had
retreated to a fortified camp in an island of the river for
fear of the invadinj^ Spaniards and their allies of Casqui.
This enclosed town of Pacaha — or, as called in one history
only, Capaha has been considered by commentators as the
farthest point to the northward reached by Soto and his
soldiers, but where itw'as situated is unknown, and probably
will always remain so, thouj^h it was scarcely higher up the
river than New Madrid, even if as high. It has been thought
by some that, perhaps, the site was near the center of
activity of the earthquake of 1811, which caused the sub-
sidence of large tracts of land on both sides of the Mis-
sissipi)i. and that, possibly, what remains of Pacaha now
quietly rejioses somewhere at the bottom of the "sunken
lands," covered with water.
Disappointed in his expectation of finding gold in the
western regions, Soto turned his footsteps towards the river
again, and on April 17th, 1542, arrived at its banks, some
miles below the mouth of the Arkansas, where, at an Indian
village called Ouachoya, he made his headquarters. He
proposed building ships there by means of which to send to
New Spain for supplies and reinforcements, in order to be
enabled to s(ittle permanently in the country, but his death
. in a little over a month prevented the carrying out of his
plans ; for when he died the desire of most of his follow<n's
to remain in so unfortunate a country died too. Luys Mos-
coso, his successor in command, in agreement with the other
captains, decided that they should try their fortunes in the
west and southwest, thinking they could go overland to their
countrymen in the latter direction. So they left the river
on the 5th of June. In about five mcmths, however, they
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 27
roturned to it ■»ittorly disappointed and broken men, and the
most ardent desire of the majority now was to f?et safely
out of the country to the nejuest Spanish settlements by
the only remaining available' route — that of the Mississippi
river. It was at another Indian villaj^e called Aminoya,
about as far above the mouth of the Arkansas as Guachoya
was below it, that Moscoso took up his winter ({uarters, and
where he built seven brij^antines to carry out of the (country
the Spaniards, who numbered but a few over one- third of
those whom Soto had brou«:a:ht into it four years previously.
They left July I'd, 154^, and, sailing day and nij^ht, subject
to the attacks of th«! natives in their hundreds of canoes for
the greater part of the way, arrived in seventeen days at
the place where th(i river, through two mouths. emi)tied
itself into the .sea. Their further adventures do not concern
the subject under di.scussion.
The relation of these men to the discovery of the Missis-
sippi is simply this: They actually traver.sed its waters, in
descending, from a point some seven hundred miles abov«!
its mouth, and, in addition, saw mor<; or less of it at two
places farth(;r up, viz. the lands of Ouizquiz andPacaha. So
it may be safely said that the soldiers of the diminishing
army commande'd successively by Soto and Moscoso were
not only the first white men to see the river where it flowed
through the interior of the continent, but were the practical
explorers of the lower two-fifths of its course. They really
thought, however, that they had hit upon this lilo Grande at
its very origin. This was a misapprehension, though one
interesting enough to be worthy of some references here to
the old maps and chronicles in order to show how it arose.
Besides the Garay and Cortes maps already described, on
28 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
which could be seen the three names of Espiritu Santo,
Palmas and Panuco, often referred to in the Soto narra-
tives, there was another one that was used by the officers of
the expedition. This was an official coast chart, made by
Alonso de Chaves in 1530; but, unfortunately, it has not
come down to our time nor any known copy of it. Yet
there is a description of the map, or rather an itinerary of
the sea coast from high up on the Atlantic and around the
Florida peninsula to Mexico, which was compiled from it by
the historian Oviedo. The reader should understand, by the
way, that though this Soto expedition turned out to have
been a roving one, it was not intended in the first place to
have been so. A permanent settlement at some point on the
sea coast had been contemplated, and would after a while
have been made but for the wi'ongheadedness of the com-
mander.
There was a certain town of the name of Cofitachequi that
the party came to, w^hich was situated somewhere in what is
now the state of South Carolina. Here Soto was treated by
the lady ruler much better than he deserved. When he left
he carried her along as a sort of hostage, according to his
usual fashion. On the fourteenth day's march the army
slept on a level, open ground (sdvanu), where they ail suf-
fered much from cold, and where the cacica managed to slip
away from her captors. Speaking of this locality the gov-
ernor's private secretary, Rodrigo Ranjel, thus expresses
himself, as reported by Oviedo: "Here they passed by
wading that river on which later the brigantines were
launched that they had made. It runs to the sea ; and, as
the sea map shows, it is the river of the Spiritu Sancto.
which, according to the maps of the cosmographer, Alonso
DIAGRAM
SHOAVING THE PRINCIPAL NAMES AND DISTANCES (LEAGUES) ALONG THE NORTH SHORE
OF THE GULF OF 31EXICO.
PRAWN FROM THE DESCRIPTION BY OVIEDO, IN 1537, TO ILLUSTRATE J V. BROWER'S
REPORT UPON THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. BY A. J. HILL, 1891.
THE SPANISH ACCOtTN'TS. 29
de Chaves, enters into a great bay. The mouth of said river
is in salt water, under 81 degrees this side of the equinoctial
line."
Captain Luys Hernandez de Biedma, an officer of the
King, also accompanied the expedition. His report, like
the diary of Ranjel, first became public in the- present cen-
tury. In it, when speaking of this neighborhood, he says;
"Among these ridges we found the origin of the great river
by which we came out, and we believed it to be the river of
Espiritu Santo." He also calls the Mississippi at the place
where it was crossed Espiritu Santo and Rio Grande.
Garcilaso de la Vega, "the Inca," who by the way was not
with Soto, but drew his information from men who were, in
that part of his book where he tre - < . " the extent of the
country traversed by the little c, .y, says that they
' 'reached the ultimate springs where the great river is born.
Those who pretend to understand something of cosmogra-
phy say that from where they embarked to the source of the
river there are three hundred leagues, and others say much
more, but I take the most moderate opinion, so that there
are eight hundred leagues of its current to the sea, and thus
far the Spaniards penetrated the land. "
The unknown Portugese Knight of Elvas indirectly con-
nects the two streams which they saw; for in giving the no-
menclature of the Mississippi,' he says that at Guachoya it
was known as Tamallsieu; at Nilco as Tapatuj at Coza as
Mico, (Mekko, chief?) and that at its entrance it was called
simply The River. It may be remarked that Garcilaso alone
calls it the Chucagua, for Juan Coles told him that that was
the name the Indians knew it by; and it is an interesting
fact that it was also one of the names of the Ohio River in
;]0 THK MISSISSIPPI HlVEIi AND ITS SOURCE.
La Salle's time, nearly a century and a half later. The
head-waters they had seen and considered those of the Rio
Grande, were not really such, as may be well supposed, but
only those of its extreme southeastern tributary, in other
words of the Tennessee River.
A corroboration of this statement may be inferentially
had from a certain expression to be found in the account of
the Tristan de Luna expedition of twenty years later. This
was projected for the initiation of a pacific settlement in
Florida, the previous attempts at settlement having failed
through the tyranny of leaders. Several of Soto's old
soldiers went with it. A small detachment was sent to Coza
(in northeastern Alabama) by reason of its great importance
at the time the Spaniards were there before. While in gar-
rison at that place, part of these new visitors went with a
Cozan army to make war on a neighboring nation called the
Napochies. who lived apparently some two or three days'
journey farther away. Of course these people could not re-
sist their hereditary enemies now that the latter were aided
by the Spaniards with their lire-sticks and wonderful beasts,
so they lied incontinently on hearing of the advance of the
allied forces. The Cozaus, not finding them anywhere with
all their searching, surmised that they had not thought the
woods safe enough, and had lied to hide themselves in
Odiechlton, which signifies the Great Water. Hearing these
words, the Spaniards thought that it must be the sea that
was meant, "but it was only a great river which our people
call the Espiritu Santo, which rises among some great n;oun
tains of that land in Florida."
With some concluding remarks on the guiding cartog-
raphy and cartographical results of this expedition of
THE SPANISH ACCOUNTS. 31
Hernando de Soto it may be dismissed from further consid-
eration here. No geograjjhical sketch or route map by any
of the party is known to have been made; thou^rh possibly
there were such, constructed on the basis of tlie Chaves
map they apparently had taken witli them. Althougli
curious historians of the present century liave caused
diligent search to be made in Spanish archives for reports
of this and other exploring expeditions, and for narratives
of missionaries of the sixteenth century, as well as for maps
of the countries of the New World, but very few papers of
that kind have been found — at least as regards the region
east of New Spain. Prior to the return of the survivors of
the Soto expedition there were no materials for filling in the
interior blanks of the outline maps already made by the
Spaniards; for the few earlier explorers of North America
hugged the coast, and scarcely ventured inland beyond tide-
water.
It will be seen, then, that the members of the Soto expedi-
tion produced no cartography; nor were the cartographical
works of others, based on the narratives thereof, much to
boast of. The unot!icial map-makers of the day, being
deprived of all recourse to original Spanish documents,
apparently had but two sources of information open to them
when they attempted to portray the hydrographical features
of the interior of the continent east of the Rocky Mountains
— then unknown — and south of the St. Lawrence. These
were the book of the Knight of Elvas, which was printed at
Evora, in Portugal, in 1557; and that of the Inca, likewise
first printed at Lisbon, in Portugal, (though a Spanish
book), in 1605, from his M. S. completed in 1591. Neither
work was accompanied by a map, so that it is not much to
32 THE MISSISSIPI'I KIVER AND ITS SOUUCE.
be wondered at that the geographers produced confused
maps. It WHS on the Florida map of the Theatriim Orhis
Terranim of Abraham Ortelius of Antwerp, edition of liJHO.
that the public of the time first saw an attempt to represent
the interior course of the Jiio Grande. ' On this map the
Rio de Spirito Santo is shown as coming from the north-
ward, divided in the u])per part of its course into four
branches. Two of these come from the north and north-
west respectively and the other two, much longer streams,
from the northeast and east; and its mouth is shown as
being at the head of a large bay called the Mar Pequena,
which means the Little Sea. A misleading error of the map
is the extension of the Rio de Canaveral of the coast charts
northward until it connects with the eastern branchings of
the other river. Maps of the country constructed after the
publication of the Inca's book make hopeless confusion; for
all the towns mentioned in it are scattered over the land
without regard to any reasonable placing of them in refer-
ence to the order in which they were met with by Soto's
1 This map boars tin- title La FLORIDA. Auvtore Ilienm ("liiaves, and therefore
does not claim to 1)0 ll»e work of Ortelius himself. I take this Hieron Chiaves to
be no other than Jerome de Chaves, a t-osmographer, who Is briefly mem ioned In
the bloiiraphioal dietionaries.
That Ortolius, as a geographer, used every eflfort to obtain information, there
oan be no doubt. Justin Winsrr, in his Narrative and Critical History of America,
{IfSd), speaks thus i f him : "He prefixed to his book a list of the authorities ['about
one hundred and fifty in all'] from whoso labors he had constructed his own maps.
* * * * It has not a single Spanish title, which indicates how closely the
Council for the Indies had kept their archives from the unofBcial cartograpers."'
No wonder, when Charles V. forbade the giving away of American maps to
foreigners!
Besides his extensive leading, it may be added that Ortelius also sought for
information from first hands; for in the short description he gives of Florida in
the text of his atlas he incidentally speaks of having obtained his Information
concerning the legion from Jacobus Colius, Vfhohad seen it. Query- May not this
man with the latinized name- in spite of the difference of the Christian name
—have been Garoilaso's informant Juan Coles? At the time Ortelius was making
his maps, and Garcilaso getting materials for his history, there were still men
living who had been with the Soto expedition.
THK SI'AXISH ACCOT-NTS.
88
-3
:\i 'I'liH MISSISSIPPI i:i\Kii AM) ITS soiuc:-:.
luwny on th<> niarcli. And into the Mar IN'ciiuMiii. now slylod
tht' lUihiii ill'/ Spirifn Sdiilii. four lar«j^<' i'i\«'r.s «'nipty instead
of one. The most caslcrn of tliese streams Is iuuikmI
ChiK-agua. but moi'e fi-eciuently Canaveral: tlw center one>
are nameless, and tlie one on tlie northwest sid«' of the l)ay
is called K. del Spirito Santo.
Now the conchision which I draw from a collection of the
Oviedo list with all old maps accessible to me licrc, in what
concerns the subject of this writin*?, are the followin«^:
1st. That the Bay of Hsi)iritu Santo of th<' Chaves maps,
(whatever that of Garay and Cortes mi«^ht have been), which
was represented by Oviedo as havinj? an extent east and
west of twenty leagues of longitude, and in parts of ten to
twelve of latitude, was the present Galveston Bay; and,
'2d. That either the Canavcn-al river or the K. tie Floi-es
of the maps generally was intended for the Mississippi
itself — most prcibably the former.
This embarrassin«ji: "Bay of the Holy Ghost." with it>
plenitude of tributary streams, stood in the way of correct
map-malvin<^ for more than a century and a half, or until the
re-discovery and full identification of the mouths of the
Mississii)pi from the direction of the sea. by Ib(»rville in
1699, atforded the means for rightly adjusting the geograi)liy
of the interior to that of the coast.
Yet thero still remains unsettled, and probably always
will remain so. the historical « question as to who gave the
information by which the three (pioted places were located
on the earliest maps of the sixteenth century. A correct
answer to this question might give a clue to the first dis-
coverer of the entrance of the Mississippi; though it may
THK SPANISH ACCOL'NTS.
85
J^ft TlIK MISSISSIIMM Ul\KU AM) rTS SOTKCK.
roasoniiljly !)(' itrt'sumt'd that tliero were many pilots from
vvhom tho faf^ts could liavp b«M'n dorivrd.
Ill tlu' sevonU'enth <'«Mitury, prior to tht* time o! Joliet aiul
Manpu'tt*'. the Mississippi river was certainly seen ayaiii
by the Sjianiai'ds, as is evidenced by the followin*; extract
fi-(jm the account of the expedition under the command of
Governor Penalosa of New Mexico, which left Santa Fe in
the year ItitU to visit the •Quivera" Indians:
'•Throii«ih these most i)leasant and fertile fields we
marched durin*,' the months of March. April, May and the
kalends of Junti, and arrived at a lar<;e river which they call
Mischii)i, where we saw the first Indians of the Escanxafiues
nation, who mi^ht be to the number of ;{.000 most warl^ce,"'
etc. The only report extant of this journey and its inci-
dents was written by an eye witness. Father Nicholas l^'rey-
tas, whose words are quoted above, and he therefore is the
first European, so far as now known, to record tlie name of
the great river in its Algonquin form, although the Arkansas
Indians he here came amongst were not of that stoclc ; it
may, however, have been given to him l)y the "Quiv'oras."
wlioever they were.'
It will be seen from the foregoing liistorical abstracts that
the discovery of the Mississippi river by the Spaniards was
1 This Fatlior, belni: a iiiaa of eilucatioii. was probably aoqiiiiiiited with tin-
publlsht'il writ iiijis ot lilt' Jfsuit inis-iioiiaries wlio went fioni Fraiu't' to Canada,
nut hu could not have ohtaliied thi; iiaiiui of tlio river from t liat .source, as it do«'s
not appear iu the /{cfu/iV'/ls till lC<i7, and he wrote in ItMi'J. His ideas of tho ;;eo;rra-
Ijliy of the interior of tho country, however, may well have been aorived frotnthese
worlvs, iu connection witii those of (")ianii)laiii and Otlieis, for ho speaks of " known
nations" al)out as follows: The first, he says, are tlie Es<'an\a(iues, having to the
north of tliein tho Land of Fire (i. c. the Masiioutens country), and lilfiher up
tlie Fresh Water lake, of excessive size (Lakes Midiifran ami Huron), Intowhicli
empties another lake called Piiehui. t. Poualak— Lake Sui)erior). He then des-
cribes liow. proceeding from said nation towards New France, tliero were met with
the Neuters, Antivorinos i Antouoronoiis of ('haniplain's map). Kaised-Uairs, I'e-
tunsand lliro<iuecs, tiieselast l)ein<;tlic Hercest of all.
TIIK SI'AMSII AITOUNTS.
8;
iiirldontal only: for. as before said. th«'ir colonization pro
J<'(ts rutlH'r cotitiMuplatfW coast s»'ttlcmcnts than intcijcr
ones, and journeys inhind wci-f mostly made from the inci
tation of tilt' •thirst tor ^'old" ascribed to them by the
Kn^'lisli poet. In spite of the first discovery of the Missis-
sijjpi valley by its subjects, the <rovernmont of Spain never
v<»ry strenuously pressed any claim to territorial possession
on that account, nor attempted colonization on the banks of
the river until more than two centuries after Soto's time, nor
even, so far as is known, prosecuted any further exploration
towards its true source. Still, they may have a.scended it
more or loss for tradin<^ i)urposes. but of that there are
scarcely more than va^ue rei)orts.
O o
UKUrc KIJ FKOM OUOXTUS FIXES' <iL(H;E ]:yil.
sriMn\ isioN roi inn.
iiu: I im:\( II A( (orxTs.
THI': I' AI'AL i'.CI.I.: .) ACr^l l-iS < ;A liTI KK; CHAMl'LA IN;
JKAN MCOLKT; liA ^ M I'.A I .LT AND JfKil'KS;
(;i:(jSKiLLiKi:s and i^adisson; i.a sai.lk
ON TIIK ()\i\() lilVKIi; .lOlJK'J'
AN1> MAIif^CKT'l'l-:.
Tl. w;is on \]i<' lUi (hiyof .\l;iy, 11!);;. Uiul ;i liour.m J'ojx-.
AI«!x;iii(l<T \'l.. iiijlilislu'd a. liiill fjy whird l)i«- v]<j;\il Ijy (lis
c.ovi'vy to tlif ru'vv Uinds of tin- jrlolx' was (lisidfd l><;t.w»M'ii
lh<! crowus ol Spain and l*')rl u^jfa,! ; and tli>' |»f).ss<!.ssion «»l
wliiil.«'\ <*r tlicy li;ul di.sc.<«v'<M<'(J, or shouhl WKtri'-.yflcf (Wscovcr,
was conliciiK'd to th'-rn r^'spcrt iv<'ly. 'V\n' drH-umcnt, tlins
coolly disposing.' of all of the Aini'rira.s. most, of Al'rira, tho
• ■asb-rn pact, <d Asia, and the islands ol' tin- ^rrvat. ortratis
l><'tw<'<'n two l-iuropf-an powers a,lr>n<'. niadf tli*- lineof di'inar'
«-al,ion a /n<'iidi;tn passi/i;/ noft.li and :-,oii1li t he ju^'li tin- l''(!fo<'
islands and IIm- A/orcs. Dut a y«!af latci- this lin*;, at. tho
insl.an*-*; ol I'oft ij;_'-;d, was shiltcd lartotlx- wcst'^ard. Tin-
fj«jo^raphi(:al r«!sults of thf n<;w uiiiUi'^i'inctiU so la i' as con
c^iiAi'A lh«' w«!st<;ni li»-njispln-»-(i, watt; to ^iv«! to I'ortii<.'al tin-
'Ill), I Ui;.N<:H A« COINTS. ti'J
• •astirrri pai'l ol the <(»iiti(i<'iit of South Ain<rririt. with litll<t
inon; *>r Nortli Aiin-(i<;i, thiui tin- isliiiicl n] N<*\vlonii<ll;irni.
uliil*! tlif ri'iiiiiiiidiT oT liolli <-otit iiKMits l)i'c;itiic t lir |»r'0|K'rty
ol" Spain.
I"'»'!inc<; iidd l"iii;rlaii(l. Iio\v<'V<t. mikI ",ul>sc(|mMit I y othci'
nation.s, alt.iT ;i time, -.(■••in to hav"- looked iipoii this proda
mat.ioji ;i.^ ;i, />/•//////;/ Inhinii. lor they do not ;ipp<';ic to ha\<'
• •\ (;f ;.n v<'/i t.hfir lornial con.srtnl \*t it. ;ind <'\'idciitly had no
j<i'(:al I'fai' </! oiri'ndin<^ l,li<- <j;'ov«'inni'-nts ol IIk- ll*<'ii;i.n
pfnin.snla by di.sre^^ardin^' it. I''fcii<-,hni<'n ;ind l'in;_'-|islini<Ti,
with or witJioiit. t.h<' cons'tiii ol 1ln'ir rnlfcs, sooti in;i.d<; voy-
;i,jif<!S t.o tlie ,shf>nr.s of IIk; N«'vv VVoild to obtain (Mxltish, Uj
tca(l<! I'of furs or to attempt <ol«>nizat,ion. '
1 'I III: 1iiI,i:M:-i;h or liUli.iii-;il I nilli, liowi-viw. riM| iilri' tlir. iicU timvIi-.dKiniiil. i.f
I li"- f;i.<-t. Ihiil III M|ilt"' <if I III- iii'V'lii'i. i,f llio H|isiiil!tiiis III iimiijy mnri! I.liiiii li f<-vv
|il;i.<i-« .tliiiiK t III' <^<»!iil~i nf I 111- A I liiiit 1<- iH'i-iiii :i.ii'l of I In- 'in If ut .M< \l'''i. Id iiddl-
I Inn to (III- li-i-fllory 'iilKlniilly iKiiuir- >1 l>v i-<iiu|in-~il , ;iii(l llii-lr pi ;h-I h-ul urijiil-
i:>i<riii-i! Ill tin- M-l I li-liii-lil. nf I liir ii<ii I lii-;i ^lii ii |);irl uf llif (-1)1111111-111 hy ollii-i-
ti:illiiii-i til III itii-li iiMii, l.tii-y ri-itlly IiikI iioI ,-iIi;iiiiIiiiii-i| llii-ii i-hiliii-t lo In; tin-
rl^'lilfiil |ii)>isi'Mti>ri of (III- wlioli; ''oiiiil ry
'.•iii-i-ii Kll/.:iilii-l li'n worilt III ri'|<lyliit' Ui ii i-<-inoiiil i-;iiii-i- of I In- -punl'ili I'.inlni--
idol i-onri-riiliiK ii (*rojiTli-(| i-xpi-dltli.-ii <»f Hli- I' riim-lM Driiln-. wi-n-: "Thai ^In-
did iiol. iitidi-i-sliiiid wliy t-llln-i- lii-r miiIiJi'i-Ih or l.hosi- of ;iii v ol Ih-i- rJii-o|ii--iii prlm-i-
diould Ix! di!|ii-lvi:d of Mil- I r-iiflh- In tin- Indli'i; I Inil ;in dn- did nol ar-;, no\vli-d;.'i- I In-
-|)iiiiliirili 1.0 liiivi: any il;.'lii liy I In: donalli.n of tin- Hl-liii|j of Konn, -o idii- U in- a
of no jIkIiI, I lial I lii-y liad lo any plai-i- ol In-r Mi.tn I lio ii- I In-y wiTi- In ai'l.iial pohMt-n
-lonof."
I n 1101, « lii-n I In- I 1 1 inli iindi-r I In 1 -v illi: li:id -ii-l/i d wll li lln- Inli-iillon of |)<t-
inainiil, oi-cii|)aiii-y , lln- tnoiillri of 1 In- Mi'i ■.l-vil|)|)i and lln- <oiil i;<iioii -. lonnl i y , tin:
lln- Uln^of Hpaln, liy way of pioli:^!: forwacdi-d lo I In: kin;/ of l-'ianr-i-, ' IiIh wi-II-
l/i-iovrd Ijiolln-f." a ictiorl. on tin: hiiIi)i:i;I, niadi: lolum 1 y liU .liinl a of VVarof lln-
I ndli:H, In I.IiIh doi iiini'iit It \n;:-, 'staled, strnoiiK ol In-r 1 liin.'*^ I luil I In: S|janl di I. lll,■
looli•!<J illjon Ml): MNHlHnl|i|il ri\i-r as "tin: v,ifA\i-^\ 01 n.'iiin-nl of liN <Towii, " and
I lial. Willi .'ill I III' ri:'<t of l.ln: coiiiil ry It liad lii:i'ii /I m-ii lo liim hy t In- hull of Al<- \ ■
aiidi-r \\. Allii>iloii wa>^ a.No niadi: to tin: i'X|ii'dll Ion of llnnando di- .Soto. 'I'lm
I'li-ii'h niliiNti-i of inailni', In a -ilali- |ia|(i-r ri'iilyln^^ lo lln-->i- ii-iin-x-ntat lonn
I'hruiK'd that, I In: l'o|n- > I In-nni-K ••" wi-ri; no |on;.'ri' of lln- opinion l.lial I h:: "liiii' of
di iiial'i'!i.lli»n " had any fiiilln-i foi-i'i- In hi-ilowln;? all of Ihi: .Ni-w World on thn
I'lowiiH of Ca^it III: and l'ort.iixal. Ili: ".lali'd that 1 In- dlin'i— i- of '.tin-hi'"' had hi-i'ii
(■ii'al.«:(l silid hilllH iHNMi'd at. various l.lnn-'-i lo lln- hl-hop^ u ho r nli-d ovi-i il ; Ih.il
authority wan fiirnlhhi'd t.o vli-arn apokiiollr Koln;; lo tin- i'linrh lolonh m; and,
iiiori'ovi:r, ! hat. all tliU wa-idoni: without Ihoiil/lit 'hal 1 hoif who ^hoii Id ••Htahll-h
t hi'iiiiK:! vi-H In I hi; ''ouiit ry will' llahli:, .-n I In; .■^pa nia I di now ijaliin-d lo lln- pin-
allt.y of i;.\-i'oniiiiuilk'al ion.
10 ■nil'; MississiiMM ui\i;k am> its soi.kck.
Anions llif <';nlif-^t (lavij^alors iti iif,tlh«!rri latitudes \\<m<-
t lio J"'r«'t)'-li, who. (■oiiiiiK-iicirij^ Kn-ir <'X|)lot"itif)n.s a'ld x-ltlf-
rn(!nt>s c)ri tln' Allantic coast, ;i little oxer foi'ty years ;irifr
tlieticst \()yi<v'«" "I ( !oliiMihiJs. wor'Ked ;rca(liia,lly westward
Ilit(» t lie interior of the eoiint ry. In Jusi a eeot iiry tlieii' jn'O
pie at last reached the water shed <i\' the ujjper Mississippi,
where no white man had (!\cr been hclorc them.
'i^lie man who lirst \>i'<^;iu this west.«'r"n mo\ernent was
.)ac(|H(;s ' lart ier. who, in \7t',',7t, on t In; (u-r-usion of his second
voyaj^<!, ascended the St. Ijawn^me ri\er to the Inrlian town
of Ho(;h<!la^a, thepjar-e where .Montreal was sul>.se(jne);t ly
built ]>y thos(i who came two or three ;;eri<!ral,ions alter hirn.
fn liis third voyage he proceeded no larther. nor did anyone
els(! immediately sncceediri'.'- him; a,nd it was neacly fit'ty
y(!ars hel'ore the nati\es (d' th<; St. Lawrence were a^^-ain
startled hy the apparition of I'onii^n ships.
ill lOO;;. Samuel de (;hamj)lain made his lirst \oya^e to
(.'anada; hut he could not at that tim«! j)ush his •'Xj>lorations
b(!yond the rapids or San/f of St. I^ouis, not far from the
eminernte iie named Mont /.'mf. l-'ive years lat<'r he a^/ain
visittid the St. Lawr<!nce river, and laid out, the town of
Quebec. The lirst white man to advance; b<!yond the ra[)ids
of St. Lfjuis, howe\-er, was not. Cliarriplain liimself. but one
of his i)(!oj)le. a yf>iin;^'' man, whose name is ncnv unknown,
who volunteerr;d id visit the llurons in th<!ir villages, and
who wintered theie with tli(an in 1<>1'; 11. T\h'. roub; thitiier
was by way of the Ottawa ri\'er. Nipissin^'' lake;, Fr<;nch
river and the (ieor<.;ian bay of Lake 'iuron. Later, pr(!C(;d(.'d
imm(!diately by b'atber le (!aron, oi' the lic'collocits, the j)io-
rieer reli^'ioijs order in New France;, (!harnplain mad(;}iis \isit
to the t rib<! ill Ibl.'; but he had to prolonj^ his stay with them
Till'; i'iii';N(ii ,\(T(»i;.\'rs. 41
into th(!m!Xt your. TIk- llurons liv(!(l ill UH'OJisljM-ncxt.roinity
of ;i larj^f \:i\<f, smk*- calN'd l>y lln'ir iiarnf, wiiicfi ('li;irn
plain always spok*- of as t,h«! J/'V ilnmr, or l-'rcsli sea. Tln'
titrM! Ik' spent here. <hi the s<jwt lieasb-fu shf<r'<' of ( ic()r;/i;iii
l>ay, he pill to <^<)()d use; atnon;/ oilier (lf>in;<"s, by \isi1inir
the Nation of Tcibaeco. and that of Hk; I>cesse(i I laic, in the
nei^^hborin;^ west and s(iut hwest,, ;ind lie niiule iiKprny ;i ^ to
the tribes bey«Hid them, lie^^'ardinj^ t lie lej^^iotis lyin^' rjicther
to the west, lie wrot.e that they could lin(i out but liit le about,
them, as t.hc! ti*ib(;s he visit.ed had only :ic(|u;iint,;iiicc with
them lor two or tiir<-e hundred lea;-'iies, oi- o\er. in the direr-
tioii wh(!n(;o eam<! the ^^'le.'it ri\<'r deseribed ftheSt. Law
rencej; b<!side'S, the savages with whom he was sojr)urnin;^
were at war with the other iiiitions lyin;^ west of the^.'-ns'it
lake mentioned, which, he says, "is the rea.son th;it we h;i\e
not b(!<;n able to obtain fiilh-r infoinuit ion about it, «!.\cept
that th«;y have mjiiiy timers tf>ld us that some prisoners from
one hiindnid lea<^ue's away had r<dated to them t[iat tli(;re
W(!r(! ])eople Uicra similar \<) us in whiteness aii(J otiierways,
havin«< so(!ri amonj^' thein scalps of these p<'op|e, \<'ry
blonde, which they tr<(;i.siir(; hi;.^hly. Ixicause, they say. they
an; lilc<! us. I do not Icnow what to think abou', it, unless it^
may bi! that th<!re art; people mor<! civilized tluiri they. ;nid
who they say i'es<!mbl(! us. It weic a, thin;^'' much to !><•
d(jsirf!d to have the trutli about this Icnowri by eye, but help
ismiedcd; th(!re r«!m;i.iii only time an<l the coura;^e of some
por.sons <>\' means who could ov would iiiid<!rtake to assist
this project, so that s(jm<! day we could make :i full and per
IVict di.scovery (d' these places, in order to have; a complete
knowlodj^o of th(!m."
Thus spoke (Jliamplain, the true lover of sctieticc;, Ijiit
42 THE MISSlSSllM'l KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
assistance for the purposes of discovery was not forthcom-
ing in those days more than it is at the present time!
Though Champlain remained in charge of the affairs of New
Prance for many years, he was never able to make journeys
to the upper country again; from which resulted the fact
that the mouth of the French river, on the northern shore
of Lake Huron, marks the extreme western limit of his
explorations.
Sixteen years later, (in 1632), accompanying the complete
edition of his "Voyages," he published a large general map
of the northern country, drawn by himself, on which
appeared al? the geographical information in his possession,
both that which he had gained from his own experience and
that which he had gathered from others. Unfortunately,
the latter, so far as regarded the country beyond his fresh
sea, was very scanty and much distorted. Although the
eastern end of a very large lake is shown, with a saiilt, or
fall at its outlet, (of course Lake Superior) ; yet the placing
on the south shore of it "a great river which comes from
the south," and the putting the river des Puann, with the
habitations of the tribe of that name, (in other words the pres-
ent Fox river and the Winnebagoes). to the north of Lake
Huron immediately below the mnJt. made great confusion.
This may be accounted for by the difficulty of correctly
conveying geographical information through the medium of
interpreters, a difficulty supplemented by inability or the
part of Indians to jierceive erroneous relationships on naps
drawn in connection with such processes as were then used
It might be supposed that the ^riysterious reports Cham-
plain had heard concerning the interior of the country were
shortly cleared up, but they were not in fact. Traveler
THK FRENCH ACCOUNTS. 4i]
after traveler added to the stock of <:eogr5iphicai knowledge,
but each expedition seemed somehow to fall short of its
promise: the queer stories changed, but continued in one
shape or another for a full century after Champlain's
time.
The next man to continue the work of discovery was one
Jean Nicolet, of whose western journey but little is known;
for nothing from his own pen is extant, nor any ma]) known
to be compiled from notes taken by him. For the only
original information concerning the life and travels of this
man we are indebted to the letters and reports of the Jesuit
Fathers contained in the well known "Relations." which
were a sort of Missionartj Herald from New France, very
carefully edited and published each year in Paris for the
encouragement of the faithful. From two of these it is
learned that Nicolet came to Canada in 161b, and was shortly
sent to what is now the Isle des Allumettes, on the Ottawa
river, to learn the language of the Algonquins there; and
that he lived with that tribe two years. Afterwards he
lived similarly with the Nippissings. much farther west, on
the lake of that name, v hence he was recalled by his
employers, the Company of New France, and appointed
clerk and interpreter in the settlements below. In this
capacity he was commissioned to make a voyage to the
nation known as the Getis de Mer, or People of the Sea.
(^subsequently known as the Winnehagoes), hitherto unvis-
ited by white men, and to negotiate a peace between them
and the Hurons, beyond whom they were distant in a west
ern direction about 800 leagues. Reaching his destination,
he held a council at which four or live thousand savages
were present, and at which the required peace was con-
44 THK MISSISSIIMM l{l\Hli AND ITS SOlltCi:.
eluded. He rotui'iunl to tlic Hurous and aftor a while to
Throo Rivors, whero he continued U) pci'i'orm liis duty as
cl<'i-k and intcrprciter "vory satisfactorily."' It has been
demonstrat<;d almost conclusively, that this journey took
place in the latttr half of 1<»:;1 and tirst half of IGU.'; ])ul.
unfortunately, his route cannot be so well shown. From
the names of the tribes whom, as P''ather lo Jeune says, ••he
\isited himself for thf; most ])art in their own country." it
would appear that he follow<'d th<i nortli slioi-e (^f Lake
Huron to the Sanlt, then coasted around Lake Michigan to
the second SLr iJovrc, now the sheet of water known as
Oreen Bay, which he ascended until he came to th(! "Oui-
nipegou, sedentary tribes, very numerous," called by some
the nation t/e.s ruan.s, (the stinking" ones), but more properly
the Gens tie Mrr. "In the neighborhood of this nation are
the Naduesiu, the Assinipour, the Eriniouaj, the Kassoua-
kouetons, and the Pouutouatami." He/e is found the first
mention of the Dakotas, under a form of the name from
which originated their modern a])pellation of Sioux.
Had it not been for the death of Champlain. on the Christ-
mas day after Nicolet's return home, the world might have
been favored with a full report of the expedition of 1534-3.'):
for this indefatigable man. equally apt as draughtsman, map-
maker and author, would doubtless have published the infor-
mation. As it was, the results r'' this journey were not
representea in the cartography of tlie day. and nearly a gen-
eration more passed awav before a clear idea was obtainable
as to where the savages enumerated by Nicolet really lived.
But though this journey and its resulting information made
so little impression on the wT^rld at large, the Jesuits of
Canada bore them in mind; for Father le Jeune, already
THK FUKN( II ACCOUNTS. 4.'
fiuoted. \viitiri<; five y<>ars later. Jiftor <'xpressing tho
opinion that a pas.sa<?<' niij^ht tx; found h/ tho second groat
ialce of tho Hui'ons ((ii'coii liayj and tiio tr-ihcs named, to a
certain sea already tallced al)ou1. continues as follows:
'•Sieur Nicolol. who has penetrated the fai-fhest in those
very distant countries. Juis assured mo thai if he had sailed
thro«» days fai'thor on a groat river which leaxcs this lake he
would have foimd llio sea. Now T strongly conjecture tliat
this is the sea which loads to the north of New Mexico, and
that from this sea one might have access towai'ds Japan or
China: nevertheless, as it is not Icnown whither this great
lake or fresh sea tends, it would be a noble entei-prise to go
to discover th(\se regions. Our fathers who are among th<'
Hurons. having been invited Ijy some Algoncjuins. are just
about turning their attention to the.so people of the other
s«'a, of whom I have spoken above; perhaps this voyage will
be roserv(Kl for one of us who liavo some; sliglit knowledge
of tho Algoncpiin."
A few words concerning the farthest ])oint Wf.'st reached
l>y Nicolot are now necessary. On tho strength of the literal
exactness of tho " three days farther" distance to the "sea,""
i-oportod by the Jesuit writer, tho theory has been advanced
that by the latter expression the Mississippi river should
bo understood, and that Nicolot came within three days"
journey of it by dosco idiug the. Wisconsin. But seeing that
the entire length of the latter river below tho portage from
the Fox is no more than can be traveled in three days, this
position is not tenable. A second view is that he went to the
said portage and no farther. A third, and tho present gen-
erally accepted opinion is, that ho went only as far as the
village of tho Maskoutens. which was situated on tho P"'ox
46 THK MISSISSII'I'I KIVKIi AM) ITS SOlJUCH.
I'ivor, about liult' way h»'t\v<'<'ii tlic pn-sfnt Wiiin«'l)a^''(» hiko
and thn porlajr*'.'
In supporl of this idt'a it is siip[)()so(l that the Ivasa-
ouakountons ol' Nicolot won* tho MaskouUuis- whom h«' dofs
not iiumtion but this is not tho <-as«'. Those first nam<'(l
))oopl»> wore th<! Nasaouakouetons, Nassauakuotons. or
Onnasacootois, a ti-ibe livinji; beyond Gn^ei) liay. towai-ds
Mackinaw. Xicoh.'t could not hav«i visited the Maskoutens
on Fox river, b(K'auso th(\y wore not there at tho time of liis
journey, ft was som(^ twelve or fifteen years latei- that the
irrosistibh; assaults of the Iro([uois on th<'ir red ene^mii's
caused a western tlif^lit of iha Alj^oufjuin nations, which
made tho Nation of Fin; or Maskoutens -who were of that
stock — to mi;|?rate. too. There is. indeed, nothinj^ tc show
that Nicolet went beyond the immediate noighboi-hood of
the head of (Ireen Bay, where the VVinnebagoes had lived
from an unknown time. Had he done so. his Jesuit eulo;[?ist.
keen for geo^JCi'iipliical information, would have known it.
and would not. it may Ix; well suppos(!d. liave left tho fact
unrecorded .
Throe <.^reat strides fi-om the Atlanti(; Ocean towards the
Mississippi had now V)een made in succession, of nine, eig-ht
and seven de<^roes of lon<i:itudo. respectively, viz. : By Car-
tier to Monti'oal, by Champlain and his friends thence to the
Georgian bay. and by Nicolet b(!yond that to the country of
tho Winnebagoes. but no mention yet of the large river in
the interior rnnnin«^ southward throuj^h the Indian nation
livin<^ on its upper v.'aters. had come to light. Only about
three degrees intervened Vjotweon the discoveries of this
last explorer and the immediate valley of the river itself,
IKor <li<i'ns'ii(iii nf I tiis Doiiil, sec fool -m if c f.'i tMirr on.
TIIK KUKNCH ACCOUNTS. 47
and within a quartor of a contury F.t'nchnuMi crossed that
.s])ac«', too.
Tho socond nn'ntioii of tin* Dakotas, the nativ»> lords of
tho upper Mississippi, is hy i<'alh<'r liay:id)aiiit mihI .Io«^u«»s.
who mado a visit of mis^ionaiy iiupiiry to tlic Snuii of [jjiKf
Superior in ItlH. Tlicrt! they wci'c told of a j^i'cat nuinbfr
of sedciiitaiy pcoijle who liad never Ivuown Kiiropeans and
novel' heard of (iod. anionic others of a certain nation of
Nadouessis. situated nortiiwest or west of the Smi/f, eii^hteei.
(hiys journey fai'ther on. 'Tlie first nine arf; made throu^'h a
<^reat lake whicli be«(^ins ai)ove the Smilt. The last nine one
must ascend a river which ])enet rates Ijack in the country.
Their towns ar<! lar^e and well defended by reason of tho
continued wars had with the Kii-istinons. Irinions." etc, •
To retuiMi now to the direct (piestion of tiie Mississippi
I'iver. M. Chouart des Gro.seilliers and P ei r<' Ks])i'it de
Kadiss(Mi wei-e two Frenchmen who emi«^rated o Canada in
the tirst half of the seventeentli century, and. besides b(!in<j:
(connected by marriage, were such firm friends and so con
•genial in their taste for travellinj^ and tradinj^' amon<? tho
"wild men." that they spent more than twenty year?
together in that manner of life. Until the publication of
the Radisson MSS. the only extant cont(Mn[)orary knowl-
edge of the discoveries of these men in tlie northwest wa?
the incidental mention of tliem (if the two y(jung French-
men alluded to be they) in th«; Utlutions referred to, and
1 (HrUittnn i)f 1()4','.) Tlii' Inirncdiiilc i-miiitpy of tlit> Sioux of tlir LaKcs. wlir woro.
;il)|);iifiii ly, tliu Indians llit-.t' piicsts rcfiTiiMl ti; Iktin was the i(.';;ion ol tin; liCpiM'
Mississippi, and of tin? luiadwalcrs of tin- .St,. Croix an(J St. Loui)- livers. It l^ not
likfl.v, however, that any of tlu'ir towns were situated on of rieai tr Lal<i'
Superior, nor, uerliaus, vei-.y ne:ir the sources ol the Mississii)pi: for the Christmos
anil tlie Assinihoins, who weit; their enemies, lived t>; the northward t>r the
Dalvotas.
■in 'I'm-: Mississii iM ui\KU and its S()UU(;k.
t\\i> «>nti-i<'s ill the .)(iiirnul ol tin- Jesuits, kopt at Qm-hrc,
ill wliicli l.'ittcr (irusniHujrs is nifiitioiMMl by nunio.'
Thos«! fiitrics, or nikIi portions of tlu'in as aro of ^«'')-
ji^raphical si^'iiilii aiic*'. loi- thr in-csont imrjjosc. b«'in^ somo-
what jilaiiily translated, are coiulenscd. ])arai)li rased. *"'
transci'ib.'d :is follows :
1. Ill tln' Hihiildii of 1()."|. it is stated that tidinj^s wfM'e
beiii^ rec(,'i\-e(l almost every day (^oncerniii','" the di.scovory
of new nations s|»eakin«^ th(i Al";onf|uin lan^'uaj^e. On«!
Iath<'r said that in the islands of the lake of the (Ims di
Ml r, (Ghmmi Bay.) whom some iin|)i'<)|»orly (!alU)d the Puants.
thoro were many ti ib(,'s whos(3 lanj^uaj^e Imd a ^r«?at affinity
to the AI«^onfiiiin; and that it was only a nine days journey
fr<jm this <^r«'at hike to the sea which se])arated Araoric-a
from China.
2. "The sixth day of Aii<,'ust of the year lt)rj4. two
young Frenchmen, full of coura<i'e. liavin^' )'<!ceived per
mission from tlie Governor of the country to (.'mbark with
some of th<! tribes who had arrived at our French .settle
ment. made a voya<j:e of mor<! than TjOO hiajfues under tlie
leathirship of these Argonauts, convt>yed, not in great
galleons noi- raiiiberges, but in little gondolas of bark.
Tliese two })ilgrims (fxi)ected surely to return in the spring
of lOri.'i. but t!ies(! ti'ibes did not bring them Vxick t 11 the
1 ForsDiiic nsiMiii ilic cdiloi-N of tlw Udniiimx Icfl out of tl ' -c ■ ompiliitlons the
n:ttiH!S of o«!rt,iiiii f\i)lorcrs. tli()ii;;li tlioy iisikI ori|ii<>lc(l tli»;ir wnrk. It liiis iH-crj
iM'tiiiirkcd liyllK' hlslurlMii. !';irktiian. tluit not tli«! siijrhtcsl icftTciicc Is iniiilc lir
tlif-i»: iitinaLs U> \.,i S:illi', :i rii,ui who had hccuiiut well Unowri to t lit: it u I hnritics of
< ii Hilda, lay and I'lcrlcal. lon'_' licfonMhc dl^cunt iniiat Ion of said i)iihlic;it ion. Thf
-liidicd silitii-c, In tills r>".i;ird. of IIk; tnft hodical ./isiiits. is mow i'f;;ri'tabli'
riirir .louiTial. on the olhcf liMnd.docs not sccrii to liavii Ix'Cii intcndfd fol' tin-
• ditloation of the pnlilic and thf name of rtrosclllicrs is four tinics rncntioncd in
it. It;nllsson. the yonn;;fr man. do«!s not apjx'ar byname li> any of the histories
iif tilt) timo, till mcntlont-d In conni'i'tloii with his broiher-ln-law, whfti lh«! two.
s'lirjf years latff than these upper <!r)uiitry voya^'os, were In the I<;n};lish Interests
in connection witli Hudson's Hay trade.
THK I'UKNCJI ACCOUNTS. 49
end of the month of A j^iist of this yoar, lO.'Ct. ***»♦♦
111 Hh' thii'd pla(<! thoro hav«i boon pointJ'd oiil to us many
nations in tho n«'i^hl>orhoo(l of th«' nation ih- Mi r. caUod by
somo tho Puants, by roason that thoy formerly livod on tho
lianks of the soa that they t;all Ounipoj,'. that is to say,
stinking water. Tho Linouck. who arc noi^rlibors to thorn,
aro about sixty viilaj^os. Tho Nadouosiout-k havo fully
forty. The Fonarok have at loast thirty. The Kiristinons
(•xcol them all in oxt<;nt, th(!y roach as far as th<» sea of tho
N«jrth. Tho country of the Hurons. which liad only seven-
teen villages in tho extent of seventeen leaj;uos, or then*-
abouts, maintained fully thirty thousand |)(!rsons, A
Frenchman' told mo formerly thai he had soon about three
thousand men in an assembly which was held for troatin;^
of peace, in tho country of tho Gins de Mcr.""
ii. "But hardly had 1 arrived at Quebec when 1 mot two
Frenchmen who had just arrived from those? upjM'r coun-
tries with three hundred Al^onquins, in sixty canoes loaded
with furs. Hero is what thoy liave seen with their own
eyes, which represents the condition of tho Algonriuins of
the west, having hitherto spoken of those of tlu; north.
They wintered on the banks of Lake Superior. * * ♦ *
Our two PVenchmen, during their wintering^, made various
excursions to the surrounding tribes; th(?y saw amongst
other things, at six days' journey bayond the lake, towards
tho southwest, a i)oople composed of the remains of the
Hurons of the Nation of Tobacco, forced by the Iroquois to
abandon their country, and to bury themselves so far in the
forest that they could not be found Ijy their enemies. These
/
1 Supposed by Mr. Itiilturtickl. ifi his lift- of tliiil, cxplnrtT, to hjive l)(;«rn Nleolet.
2 Hrlation of \m' .
-4
50 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
poor people, fleeing and making their way o^'er mountains
and rocks, across great unknown woods, happily met with a
fine river, wide, deep and comparable, so they say, to our
great river St. Lawrence. ' They found on this river the
great nation of the Alinouec, who rec^^ived them very well.
This nation is composed of sixty villages, which confirms us
in the knowledge we already had of there being many thou-
sands of persons filling all these lands of the west. Let us
return to our two Frenchmen: Continuing their tour, they
were much surprised when visiting the Nadouechiouec.
***** Qyj, Frenchmen have visited the forty towns
of which this nation is composed, in five of which are counted
as many as five thousand men." In a succeeding chapter,
referring to the opening for further missions, — "Secondly,
to the south, inclining towards the west, the nation of
Tobacco have deputed one of their chiefs, who is here ready
to lead some Frenchmen, the next spring, for sixty leagues
beyond the lake of the maritime people, where his tribes-
men having fled believe themselves in security, as being in
the center of many Algonquin nations, sedentary from time
immemorial; but the way thither is not safe. Thirdly, to
1 The Huron settlements of Georgian Bay were warred upon ferociously by the
Iroquois in 1648 and 1649, and, together with the missions of the Jesuits there,
totally ruined. The shepherds were smitten and the sheep scattered. One of the
Fatliers says that of the thirty or forty thousand Hurons living there, the enemy
killed and burned but the smaller part; tliat famine, wliicli follows war, attacked
them still more roughly; and that the remainder who could escape, drifted away
on all sides like a defeated an.iy pursued by the conqueror. Their relatives tlie
Petuns (or Tobacco nation), had soon to fly, too, and they, going westward, were
joined by the Ottawas at MissiUmakiwjk . By circuitous ways they appear to have
arrived at the Mississippi, which they ascended after a time as far as the islands
lying between Red Wing and Hastings. Minnesota, on one of which they lived until,
having become embroiled with the Siuux. they fled to tlie Black River; and at last,
though temporarily separated, both tribes brought up at La Pointe on Lake Supe-
rior, where after a time they formed the nucleus of a mission. Thus history began
in t'.j upper Mississippi valley, in the wilddle of tlie seventeenth century with this
Invasion of the territory of the Dakotas by foreign tribes— history, curiously
enough, preceding discovery there.
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS. yl
the west, a great nation of forty towns called Nadouechiouec
awaits us since the alliance just recently made with the two
Frenchmen who returned from the:n this summer, "i
4. The Outaouat arrived at Three Rivers August 24, 1660.
" They were to the number of three hundred. Des Groseil-
liers was along with them, who had gone there the year
I before. They left Lake Superior in one hundred canoes,
[forty returned on the way and sixty arrived here loaded with
' furs. * * * * Tjjgy ^^^^ ^j.^^ ^j^^^^ .^ twenty- six days,
and were two months in ascending. Des Groseilliers win-
tered with the nation of the Bceuf, which he considers to be
four thousand men. They belong to the sedentary Nadoues-
seronons.""
Turning now to Radisson's own account of his third
and fourth voyages— the first made in company with
Groseilliers— the results of the journeys can be con-
cisely stated. They went by the usual way of the Ottawa
river and Lake Huron to the islands near the mouth of
Green Bay, where, on one of them, they were the guests
of fugitive Hurons and Ottawas. While there they vis-
ited the Pottawattamies and, through them, made the
acquaintance, in the spring, of another nation called Es-
cotecke, signifying Fire. They extended their peregrina-
tions to the southern part of a large lake, (doubtless
Michigan), and to what was evidently the country of the
IHinois and neighboring nations. The Nadouesserons,
however, being farther to the north, were not seen by
1 Relation of 1660.
2 (Journal of the Jesuits.) The Jesuit writers quoted do not seem to have had a
very clear notion of the geographical facts learned during the first and second
voyages of Groseilliers and Radisson. nvjr to have credited these men personally
with the discovery of the Mississippi river; but that may have arisen from the
agreed upon reticence of the travelers themselves, as mentioned farther on.
52 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
them on this first journey. Towards the end of the
narrative of events, related in a manner very discourag-
ing to the modern reader, Radisson gives an interesting
though too concise and not over clear geographical
summary of their wanderings in these words:
"We weare 4 moneths in our voyage without doeing
anything but goe from river to river. We mett severall sorts
of people. We conversed with them, being long time
in alliance with them. By the persuasion of som of
them, we went into ye great river that divides itself
in 2, * where the hurrons with some Ottanake & the
wild men that had warrs with them had retired. There
is not great difference in their language as we weare
told. This nation have warrs against those of forked
river.2 It is so called because it has 2 branches, the
one towards the west, the other towards the south
wch we believe run us towards Mexico, by the tokens
they gave us. Being among these people, they told us
the prisoners they take tells them that they have warrs
against a nation, against men that build great cabbans
& have great beards, & had such knives as we
iThis could only have been the Mississippi, seeing that that river, as shown In a
previous note, was the one whither the Hurons and Ottawas fled: but why it is
called The River that Divides itSclf in Two is a matter for conjecture. Possibly
the division was transverse, ani' th'> falls of St. Anthony the solution of the enigma.
Or it may be that the name canie from the luct that the waters of the upper Mis-
i^issippi and those of the Missouri flow side by side, but without uniting for many
miles below the mouth of the latter. Or. to go still farther down the river, a third
explanation can be ventured. In olden times the Indians con.sidered that the river
divided itself In its lower part and made a sort of island, which stretched from the
Yazoo pass of to-day on the north down to the mouth of the river of that name on
the south. The western boundary of this island was formed by the Mississippi as
we understand it now; its eastern by various interior bayous and watercourses,
which were connected in such a way as to admit of navigation. The second
theory, however, seems to me to be the true one.
2 The Forked river here mentioned must also, from Its very definition, be taken
for the Mississippi; the name having reference to its bi-furcation at the moutli of
the Mis.sourl.
THK FUENCH ACCOUNTS. 58
have had. Moreover thfy shewed a Decad of beads
and guilded pearls, that they have had from that
people, wch made us believe they weare Europeans.
***** We weare informed of that nation that
live in the other river. These weare men of extraor-
dinary height and biggnesse, ' that made us believe
they had no communication with them. They live onely
on Corn & CitruUes wch are mighty bigg. They have
tish in plenty throughout ye year," etc.
j Radisson had heard similar stories a few years before,
when with the Iroquois, from a traveled chief of that
nation, who told him of his adventures, and what big
people he saw whilst on a three years" journey with a
war party of thirteen men, "in ye upper Country of the
Iroquoits neere the great river that divides itself in two."
When they returned home the two travelers agreed
not to tell what they had seen, because they had not
yet made a "full and whole discovery" by personally
visiting the bay of the North, (Hudson's.) Nevertheless,
Radisson thought that through his partner's family in
some way an inkling of their doings and further plans
must have leaked out, as the Jesuit Fathers wanted to
find out from them how the beaver might be brought
down from the bay of the North, and wished him to
engage in that voyage so that Groseilliers might give
up his own — Des Groseilliers had been with these mis-
sionaries in the Huron country in former years — but the
two would make no arrangement with them. Neither
1 The Osages, before they were driven into the interior of tlie country by their
enemies, were inhabitants of the lower Missouri, and may possibly have been the
big pople referred toabove, judging by what travelers have said about their
larse proportions.
54 THK MISSISSIPPI UI VEK AND ITS SOURCE.
would thoy listen to the avaricious proposal of the gov-
ernor of Three Rivers, and preferred to go entirely un-
trammelled. They left the town in the night time,
overtaking the Saulteur Indians who had come down in
August and were awaiting them above in the river.
This second xoyage was mostly to Lake Superior and
to the regions north of it, as contemplated. Following the
south coast they reached Chagouamigon bay, where they
halted and selected a site for winter quarters. In a
short time they left there and went back into the country
several days' journey to a lake where there was a native
village. Snow beginning to fall, they all separated to
hunt, a rendezvous having been appointed at which the
various tribes were to meet the Frenchmen in two and a half
moons. The place was a small lake upon the lands of
the Nadouesseronons. Embassadors from that nation,
"which we will call the nation of the beefe," came to
see our travellers. When the time had come they re-
paired to the appointed place, and in three days eighteen
nations had arrived on the ground. A fort was built
in case of possible attacks from the Christinos, and a
place near by cleared off for an assembly ground. The
time was spent in councils, feastings and games. The
"feast of the dead" was what they had been summoned
to, and fourteen days in all were occupied with it.
When the ceremonies and festivities were over every
one returned to his own country. Keeping their word,
the two Frenchmen went to visit the ' ' nation of the
beefe," seven small days' journey from the general ren-
dezvous. They found themselves in a town where were
great cabins mostly covered with skins and close mats,
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS, 55
and were told there were 7.000 men there. There was
no wood there and moss was ustd for fuel. These people
were doubtless the sedentary Tatanga, [buffalo. ] included
in the list of nations Radisson gives at the end of his
account of the two voyages. If, as is possible, the
Tatanga, or Bieuf, were the tribe called in more recent
times the Titonwans, and Groseilliers and Kadisson vis-
ited them in their western home, these two Frenchmen
must have personally seen and crossed the Mississippi
river, whether they did so on their previous voyage or
not ; still they make no mention of it on this occasion.
There is yet another kind of evidence that they saw the
Mississippi, which may be deduced from the language
used by Radisson, immediately after mentioning the fact
that there was no wood for fuel in the country of the
people of the Beefe. His words are:
"They sow corne but their harvest is small. The soyle
is good, but the cold hinders it, and ye graine is very
small. In their countrey are mines of copper, of pewter,
and of ledd. There are mountains covered with a kind
of Stone that is transparent and tender, and like to that
of Venice. The people stay not there all ye yeare; they
retire in winter towards the woods of the North, where
they kill a quantity of Castors."
From this general description, which intimates an exten-
sion of the country of the Beefe as far as eastern Iowa, it
is possible that this nation was the one afterwards known
to other Frenchmen as the "Otoutanta or Mascoutens Nad-
ouessioux," Sioux of the Prairies; to reach whom one might
ascend either the Minnesota or tne Des Moines river i.
1. Notwithstanding the narratives of Radisson are very insufficient as regards
facts of time and space, and consequently forbid decided opinions as to his routes
56 THK MISSISSIIM'l UIVEU AND ITS SOURCE.
But viij^ue and elliptical in (lescrii)tion as is the ffeo-
graphy of these two voyages, here given by Radisson.
the chronology is yet worse, indeed may be said to have
no existence. Commentators on these writings make the
year in which the travelers set out on their first joint voy-
age to be 1058, presumably because the author, in account-
ing for his actions the preceeding year when he was con-
templating a journey to the Iroquis country, incidentally
gave a date for the time of the departure — "which was
to be in June, 1657" — although from that place on in the
book the reader finds no further mention of a calendar
year again, only the succession of the seasons. Were
nothing else than his narrative to be taken into account
there would be no excuse for refusing to give credence
to this direct deduction; but there is exterior evidence as
of travel, yet two assumptions may be ventured upon by wiiy of working liypothi-
ses. They are:
1st. That the place of rendezvous was somewhere between Kettle and Snake
rivers In eastern Mituiesota; and
2nd. That the "nation of tlie beefe" were no other than the modern Titonwaiis
or people of the "village of tlio prairie." (as suggested in the text.) wlio. in tlie sev-
enteenth century lived in the neijiliborliood of Big Stone and Traverse lakes. Tlie
philology of this theory may appear somewhat forced, .seeing tliat Tatanga (buffa-
lo) and Tlntah (prairie) are not much alike in sound and entirely distinct in sig-
nification; l)i't when one takes into account the fact tliat the strength and prol)-
able location of the Tatanga of Kadisson and those of tlie Tintons of the early
French maps are much alike, it may not lie a wild conclusion. In addition, it may
be stated that tlie name . as sp'jUed by Le Sueur, some forty years later, together
with hisdefinition of it. came very near to proof of tribal identity— "Tltanga-ougli-
iatons. Village of the Great Cabin." No other French writer appears to have used
the wo'rdBccu/in connection with any trilie or band of the Dakotas, and it is barely
possiblethat Radisson in some way confounded tlie two voi us of their language.
Another philological idea can be brouglit forward in this connection, which ii that
tlie root of the words Outoutanta and Tinton may be the same. Kadisson confessed
his total ignorance of tlie language of the Nadouesseronons. and stated that he had
to rely upon an interpreter In conrersing with theiu; so he may have misunder-
stood and unintentionally perverted the name of their western brethren. The
"arms" of the Tintons were not the butfulo. but the deer. It certainly does not
oem very likely tliat there should have been in existence at the same time two
very populous tribes living in the same region and bearing names enough alike to
iustlfy In later years a theory that they were one and the same people .
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS. 67
to time which should not be overlooked, though it would
take up too much space to consider it here in detail. It
consists in the record to be found in the Relationn and
other books of certain events, with their dates, which,
when compared with the way the same incidents appear
interwoven with the narratives of Radisson develope irre-
concilable chronological differences. It may be saf'^ly
assumed that the two young Frenchmen of the lielations
for 1656, 1658, and 1660. quoted are the same in each case
and identical with Groseilliers and Radis.son. or at least
that those were who set out in the two later years; in
which case there are good grounds for the conclusion that
the upper Mississippi river was first seen by white men,
two, if not four years earlier than the date 1650, at pres
ent accepted. Had not Groseilliers, like Joliet at a later
date, lost his "book of annotations" when he was upset in i
the St. Lawrence on his return from the second voyage,
we should probably have a clear account of the time and
manner of this discovery of the Mississippi river by him
and his young brother-in-law. in lieu of the involved and
imperfect narratives of the latter, who, though a French-
man, unfortunately chose to write his book in English, a
language which he did not understand.
The Jesuit fathers after awhile were able to establish mis-
sions, more or less permanent, in the upper country. Among
these the nearest ones to the Mississippi valley were that of
St. Esprit, at LaPoince on Lake Superior, and that of St.
Marc of the Outagamis, on the Wolf river to the westward
of Green Bay, and that of St. Jacques, at the Maskoutens'
village on the Fox river above Lake Winnebago. The St.
Esprit mission was established with especial reference to the
5H THK MISSISSIPPI lilVKK AND ITS SOUKCE.
Hurons aud Ottawas, who, after having been expelled from
the re<;ions of the Mississippi and Black rivers, finally set
tied on Cha^ouamigon bay. The priests here were often
visited by the Illinois, who lived far to the south of them.
and Father AUouez first made personal acquaintance with
the Nadouessiouek when he was on a missionary trip to the
extreme west end of the lake. He speaks of these people as
"tribes who live to the west of here, towards the great river
called Messipi ;" a memorable remark, being the first time
this Algonquin name of the river appears in any of the wri-
tings of the French. * The fathers had probably heard about
both the Sioux and the Mississippi from these other tribes,
and also in later years from the Maskoutens when they were
first visited by Perrot and other traders in their stockaded
village on the upper Fox River. Thus it was, probabl/,
that from the time the • ' Great River " was first heard of
through the travels of Grosselliers and Radisson till 1672,
hardly one of the Relations appeared which did not contain
more or less in the way of hearsay information or conjecture
concerning the Sioux and other distant tribes, the s a of the
West, and the river Mississippi, the natives whc iuuabited
the banks of the latter, and which sea it might :;mpty into.
Nor were these enthusiastic priests the only important
people to take an interest in the prosecution of voyages of
discovery. Courcelle and Talon, w^ho were respectively
governor and intendant of Canada between 1665 and 1672,
sent out "men of resolution" at various times, particularly
in the years 1669, 1670, and 1671, in different directions ; some
to report on the copper of Lake Superior ; some to look after
the prospects of a trade in furs on the Hudson's Bay slope,
1 Relation of IBST.
THE FUKXt H ACCOUNTS.
5U
and to search for routes thither ; and still others towards the
west, southwest, and south, to look for w^ays leading to the
seas of the west or south, or to the Gulf of Mexico. Talon
in a letter to the kin^?. dated October 10, 1670, said that these
men were to keep journals, and on their return to furnish
written reports to the jrovernmont, and that they were to
take formal possession of the country wherever they went. '
Posterity, however, has seen but little of such ofticial reports,
and still less of the jouri^a's from which thoy were to be
compiled.
Among the men referred
to, the most eminent was
Robert Cavelier, afterwards
better known as the Sieur
de la Salle, who had long
thought much about making
discoveries in the south-
west. In 1669 he obtained
the sanction of the author-
ities to his undertaking an
expedition in that direction.
About the same time, too,
the Sulpitian priests at
Montreal were contemplat
ing a similar journey to find
out something about the
SIEUR DE LA SALLE. savages of the west, with a
a view to doing them good, and fathers DoUier and Galinee
were selected for the undertaking.
1 Nicholas Perrot was doubtless one of these men. BaquevlUe de la Potherle, In
bis HiUoire de VAmerique SepterUrionale (1732), says of him : " Sieur Perot has best
60 THE MISSISSIPIM HIVEU ANU ITS SOURCE.
At tho instance of the; ^overnmont both parties were
combined into one expeditioii. which left tho settlements in
•Inly for tho Iroquois country and a certain river which
they had heard of that they wore thence to follow into
unknown regions Unable to procure giiides among the
people on the south side of Lake Ontario, th«'y went to its
western end. expecting to make another beginning from that
neighborhood; but the meeting there with Sieur Joliet, who
had been looking for copper at Lake Superior and who told
them about the northern route, now changed their plans, at
least those of the clergymen. The party separated, the
priests going to visit the mission at the Sanlt de Ste. Marh\
and La Salle going, it is not known exactly where; but, as
regards the discovering of any great river these persons
set out to find, the expedition was a failure. What they
had in their minds may be surmised from a letter written by
Patoutet to minister Colbert, shortly before the close of the
year in question, in which it was stated that La Salle and
Dollier had gone off to examine a passage they expected to
tind which would connect with Japan and China. An ofti
cial report <if the voyage made by governor Courcelle to
Lake Ontario in 1671 refers to the same matter when it
tells about two priests who a couple of years before had set
out to visit savage nations living "along a great river that
Iroquois called the Ohio, and the Outaouas the Mississipy."
known these nations; tho soveiiiors general of Canada always made use of hlni in
tlieir plans. His familiarity witii native languages, las slirewdness, and his worth
of cliarat-'ter, enabled him to achlce discoveries wiiich were tho ocraslon of M. de
laSalle's malviriu: all those efforts that have resulted so favorably forhini. It was
by his means LPerrot'sj that the Mississippi became Itnown." Tiie fact that this
man was not t lie first to discover any part of the Mississippi river, so far as now
appears, made needless any mention of him here in the text, but he was too good a
man to be left entirely out of a writingof this nature. His name should have been
honored by the people of Minnesota, like those of Hennepin, Du Luth, and Le
Sueur, his contemiwraries.
THK KKENCH ACCOUNTS. 61
but had failed in tht'ir purpose by reason of unforseen diffi-
culties. The writer of the report further says that they
nevertheless ascertained that this river was fjreater than
the St. Lawrence; that there were many nations on it i
banks; and that its general course was from east to west.
He, therefore, after having examined all the maps of
the Atlantic coast and that of the Gulf of Mexico, without
finding there the mouth of any river comparable to the St.
Lawrence, thinks it must fall into another sea. most
probably that of Nev.' Spain. From the autumn of 1009 to
the summer of 1072 nothing certain is known of La Salle's
movements. That he was not idle. i>art of the time at least,
is shown by Talon's letters to the King. In that of Novem-
ber 10, 1070, he says that Courcelie and himself had sent
La Salle to look for an opening to Mexico by the St. Law-
rence, and the western lakes; in that of November 2, 1071,
that La Salle had not yet returned from his voyage made to
the south of "this country." Some time within these two
years it was that La Salle followed the valley of the Ohio
River downward for an unknown distance, but not much
farther than the falls of Louisville it is supposed. The only
document accounting for his doings during the blank period
is not looked upon with much confidence; and statements
about the Ohio falling from a height into marshes and
losing itself there, to be gathered into one channel lower
down, sound more like the tales of Indians invented to dis-
courage explorers than information derived from an honor-
able and sensible man such as La Salle was.
In spite of the desire and intention La Salle had enter-
tained for years to make the discovery of the lower Mississ-
ippi river and to follow its current to the sea, with a view to
6:2 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE
the territorial aggrandizement of his country, the establish
ment of colonies, and the development of the resources of
the country as well as the building up of his own fortunes,
he was preceded in the valley by Joliet. Some of La Salle's
friends thought that Joliet had been pushed forward in this
way by intrigue. Whether that were so or not the fact was
that the king himself, in the summer of 1672, impressed on
his minister Colbert the importance of the discovery of the
passage to the South Sea, desiring a large reward to be
offered to those who should make it. Under such an august
monarch it is safe to assume that steps were taken in this
direction sooner than they otherwise would have been, and
it may be that La Salle was so circumstanced that he could
not avail himself of the opportunity now afforded him to
carry into execution his design of years, and that some one
else therefore had to be chosen; but this is merely a conjec-
ture. What we actually do know is that Governor Frontenac,
in his memoir to Colbert of Nov. 2, 1672, says that "He,
(Chevalier de Grandfontaine, governor of Acadia and Pentag-
ouet), has likewise judged it expedient for the service to
send Sieur Joliet to the country of the Makouteins, to dis-
cover the South Sea, and the great river they call the Mis-
sissipi, which is supposed to empty into the sea of Califor-
nia. He is a man very skilful in this kind of discoveries,
and has already been quite near to this great river, the
mouth of which he promises to And;" also, that in a similar
communication to the same minister of Nov. 14, 167-4, he
says: "Sieur Joliet. whom Monsieur Talon advised me, on
my return from France, to dispatch for the discovery of the
South Sea, has returned three months ago, and discovered
some very line countries. "
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS. 68
With Louis Joliet, on the expedition referred to, went
Father Jaques Marquette, S. J., who had for years meditated
a voyage to the nations living on the Missi^.sippi, particu
larly to the Illinois who had often Invited him when tliey
were visiting the mission at La Pointe. No full report of
the voyage by the hand of Joliet is extant, as he lost his
box of papers and net, ^.^ his life too, in the rapids of the
St. Lawrence river by Montreal, on his way to report to the
governor, (Frontenac,) to whom however he furnished the
best account he could from memory. Father Marquette
never returned to Canada, It is to the narrative of this
priest, therefore, that the world has had to look for the
fullest account of the celebrated voyage. In was on the 7th
day of June, 1673, that the party arrived at Maskoutens, the
actual commencement of their voyage of discovery; for
Marquette writes thus: "Here is the limit of the discoveries
made by the French, for they have not yet gone in the slight-
est degree beyond this point . " * Thence they continued
1 The IcKiation of this villaKe has been more of a puzzle to historians than It
should have been. Marquette's placing it three leagues from the Wisconsin portage
has led them astray. Those who talte his words literally do not reflect that within
so short a distance as eijilit and a quarter miles there could not well be comprised
all the tedious hydrographical features spt)ken of by the piiest and other tra v-
ellcrs who came after him. Those who thinl< that thirty leagues was nu>anthave
never produced much. If anything, in the way of proof to sustain that theory,
which would imply a site half way between Berlin and Eureka, somewhere in the
northeastern part of Green Lake County, Wisconsin. Those who believe he
intended three day' x journey are the wisest ; for It is obvious that Marquette could
only have obtained his Information from the Indians at the village, who did not
reckon by the measures of white men. Father Dreuillottes. as quoted in the
Relation of 1658, says that he made up his list of nations partly from what two
Frenchmen had told liim and partly from Information received from various
savages. By thus taking his facts from unlike sources he seems to liave made two
places out of one. In briefly describing these several Indian nations he refers
them geogi^phicuUy to the town of the Oupnuteouatamik on Green Bay. His
third town was distant about three days' journey going by water, and was com-
posed of the Makontensak and Outichakouk, (Kikabous?,) concerning whom he
adds that— "The two Frenchmen who have travelled in this region say that these
tribes are of a very mild disposition." His fourteenth locality was thirty strag-
gling villages (bourgades) Inhabited by the Atsistagheronnous (i. e. the Nation of
64 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
thier ascent of the Fox river in a west southwest direction,
through the marshes, little lakes, and rice fields, with
which it abounded, till they reached the farther side of a
portage of 2700 steps, or say Tialf a league, that brought
them to the Miskousing river, now called Wisconsin.
Here their Indian guides returned home, and the seven
Frenchmen were left to prosecute their discoveries alone.
They had quitted the waters which were continuous from
this point as far as Quebec four or five hundred leagues
away, to take those which should lead them into strange
lands. The river they now embarked on came from the
northwest and ran towards the southwest, and they
followed its course till they reached its mouth, situated,
according to their observations in latitude 42° 30'. Here
they entered the Mississipi on the 15th day of June,
Joliet says, but Marquette makes it the 17th. The latter
here remarks: "The Mississippi river derives its origin
from various lakes which lie in the country of the tribes
of the north* (a representation of which lakes, from the
reports of the Indians of course may be seen on one of
Joliet's maps.)
Fire) situated to the southwest one quarter south, six or seven days journey olT.
These localities are doubtless the same though tlic distances differ. Tlirce days
journey up the Bay and tlie Fox river to reach tlie Masl<outeiis would be entirely
out of the question, as that would scarcely take one to Lake Winnebago; but the
six or seven days a!?ree well with the statements of Perrot, Allouez and Marquette,
touching the'tinie taken by tliem in their respective journeys from the St. Fran-
cois-Xavier mission near the mouth of tlie river to the village in question. Com-
paring the actual length of the river as shown Ijy our modern surveys with all the
accessible estimates of time and distance of these early travellers, one is irresist-
ably drawn to tlie conclusion that there is but a limited tract of country within
which to locate the barbarian settlement visited by them. The "little mountain"
or ridge (co(eau) on which it was situated sliould be looked for somewhere to the
east or south-east of Princeton, about a league— 2=^ miles— back from the river,
which is the distance given more than once in the old records.
1. The first reference, in detail, concerning the source of the Mississippi
THE FUENCH ACCOUNTS. 65
They now tranquilly descended the river through a
country apparently only inhabited by beasts and birds,
the course being to the south and southeast as far as lati-
tude 42° where the face of the country changed somewhat.
They had made more than sixty leagues (probably to Mus-
catine, Iowa, ) when the direction of the river was south
and south southwest, and after a while partly southeast
and partly southwest. Having sailed more than one hund-
red leagues from the mouth of the Wisconsin they saw.
on the 25th of Jui.e, the first traces of human occupancy
in the shape of a little path on the west side (at Keokuk
or a few miles above it) which they followed for two
leagues till they came to some Indian villages on the
banks of a stream. This river was the Moenguena, now
the Des Moines, and the people of the villages were of
the Peouarea tribe of the Illinois nation. The travellers
remained with them till the end of the month when they
re-embarked on the Mississippi. Farther on they came
to the Pekitanoui, or river of the Missouris, coming from
the west northwest, where they saw a similar sight to
that which met the eyes of Soto's forces at the place
where the latter crossed the river much lower down. Mar-
quette writes: — "I have seen nothing more frightful; a
tangle of entire trees, of branches, of floating islands, is-
sued from the mouth of the Pekitanoui with so much
impetuosity that one could not attempt to cross it without
great danger. The commotion was such that the water
was made all muddy by it and could not clear itself."
The next river noted by the travellers was the Ohio,
which Marquette calls the Ouaboukigon, coming from the
east. Lower down they came across a tribe of Indians on
66 THE MISSISSIPPI KiVEU AND ITS SOURCE.
the east bank who seem to have had dealings with the Euro-
peans of the Atlantic coast. Finally they arrived at the
village of the Mitchigameas. on the west side, eight or
ten leagues above that of the Akansea, which later was
on the east side of the river, in latitude 33° 40' according
to their reckoning, and opposite a large stream from the
west — doubtless the present Arkansas river. Here they
landed and were well received. The travellers held a pri-
vate council to decide whether they should proceed farther
on, or should content themselves with the discovery
already made. After having carefully considered the fact
that they were not far from the Gulf of Mexico, as they
erroneously supposed; and that the Mississippi river un-
doubtedly had its discharge into that sea, and into no
other, for the route had always been in a southern direc-
tion, they resolved to turn back.
They further took into account that being, as it were,
at the gates of Spain, to proceed beyond the Akansea
would not only be to risk the persona] safety of them-
selves and their men. but also to incur the danger of
losing the fruits of their voyage, which they would have
no means of publishing if they became captives in the
hands of the Spaniards. Still another possible peril was
that from the hostile savages, allies of the Europeans,
who infested the lower part of the river and w^hose
attacks they would be utterly unable to resist. They
therefore left the village where they were on the 17th
of July, returning by the way they had come, except
that on reaching the Illinois river they ascended it to
go to their own people instead of keeping on to the
Wisconsin. Though this voyage was a mere flying trip,
thp: fkknch accounts.
67
devoid of any lastin«,' consequence in the way of the es-
tablishment of missions or trading posts, it has yet coine
to be looked upon as an important and Im])orishablQ
iPlit, 7^ ^Ja cja.le.
JOLIKT'S ilAP OK TUK :H1SS1SSJP1'I. ltiT4.
geographical datum. It is indeed certain that by it were
the course and character of the Mississippi river between
t)8 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
the mouth of the Wisconsin on the north and that of the
Arkansas on the south first definitely ascertained and
published ; and, as it was from the latter locality that
the remains of Soto's army had in the preceding century
descended by the river to the sea, it canre about that
by the junction of the two explorations, Spanish and
French, two-thirds of the length of the Mississippi river
had been clearly "discovered.'"
With Marquette practically close the geographical
writings of the Jesuit fathers, so far as regards the
Mississippi river. The home government of the day,
siding with Frontenac, it is supposed, in the polite
quarrel between him and the Order, allowed no further
publication of Relations after the one of 1672 ; an act
now regretted alike by both Catholic and Protestant
capable of appreciating — at least in worldly things — the
value to later generations of these matter-of-fact records.
Translata est gloria ab Israel.
soorvrsrdx ftfth.
THE FREXC rr A( ( OrXT, C oiitiiiued.
LA SALLE ON THE ILLINOIS RIVER ; HENNEPIN
AND HIS COMPANIONS; LA SALLE ON THE^
MISSISSIPPI; IBERVILLE; SAGEAN AND
LE SUEUR ; CHARLEVILLEs MINOR RE-
PORTS AS TO THE SOURCE OF THE
MISSISSIPPI.
Reappearing in local history about 1G72, La Salle soon
became a conspicuous figure in colonial affairs. In 1674 he
made a voyage to Prance, returning to Canada in 1675. In
1676 the building of the new Port Frontenac was placed
in his hands, and later he obtained the e ommand of it. He
left for France again in November, 1677, and returned to
Quebec in September, 1678, bringing with him a patent from
the King authorizing him "to discover the western part of
New France," and requiring him to complete his enterprise
within five years. He then went to Frontenac at last
fully prepared to make an actual beginning of his pro-
jects for western and southwestern discovery and settle-
70 TMK MISSlSSllMM KIVHli AND IIS SOUKCK.
rnetit. Next inonlli h»^ scut out flttcen men with goods,
with ci'ders to go in canoes and await him at tl o Illinois,
who lived in the neighborhood of the Mississipj)i. Th(^y
were to trade with the Indians, accumulate provisions, fell
trees for timber with which to build a fort there, and make
all other necessary preparations for settlement and new dis-
coveries. In the beginning of 1(571). he sent out a party,
which included Father Louis Hennepin, to Niagara, to build
a fort and storehouse there, and a ship for the navigation of
the lakes ahove. When, having embarked in this ship, he
arrived at Missilimakinak. in August, he found that most of
the men he had sent on ahead the year before had betraytnl
their trust, having traded on their own account alone, and
had separated into smaller parties and scattered, wHhout
making any attempt to begin the settlement ordered.
Although he recovered a portion of his merchandise, and
arrested some of the deserters, he was necessarily much
crippled. Yet he continued the voyage unhesitatingly.
Arriving at the island of the Pottawattoraies, at the entrance
of Green Bay. he sent the ship back to the establishment at
the end of Lake Erie. * and having procured canoes with
1 Tliis ship, as is well known, nevor arrived at its destination ; it was last seen in
tlio northeiii part of Lake Miehi>ran, but its fate was never surely ascertained.
La Salle on liis return voyajie up tlie Mississippi river in 16S2, obtained from some
tribe a youn^ I'ana Indian, who after a while learned to speak French so as to
make himself easily understood. He told his master that he had seen, three years
l)efore, In the villages of tlie Emixx-)urit€«, where he was a prisoner, two Frenchmen,
who were all tliat remained of se\en that were captured by tlie Nadouessii-ux
while ascending the Mlssissipj)i in Ijark canoes. One of the two had obtained f?raee
for himself and survivin;^ companion by displaying; and exploding a grenade. Tlie
iie.xt spring they were taken to these villages of the MisxanriH on a treaty of peace,
and there they again astonished the Indians by flring otf another grenade. La^-alle
felt assured that the boy had actually seen two of his men; his words are: "Whom
he depicted to us In tuch a way that I cannot doubt that one of them was my
pilot." He considered that the little savage could no more Invent the description
of the grenade t lian he could the portrait of the pilot, and thought that the plan of
the deserters had been, after wrecking the ship, to join Du Luth, who was In the
Nadouesslcux country, and to tr.-ide tliere; finally, to save themselves with the
THK FKKNCH ACCOCNTS CONTINUKD. 71
which to convoy the party and all their imprtlhutvfa. coastod
ulonj^ the wostorn and southei-u sliores of Lak«' Mi( hi^'an.
until the mouth of the river of tlie Miarais, the St. .Joseph of
to-day. was reached. This they asc'«?nd(>d to the carrying
place between it and the headwaters of the Tealciki, now tho
Kankakee. It was in December. 1070. that La Salle now
(entered upon land throujrh which flowed streams whose
waters ran to the Gulf of Mexico ; and he continued down
the Kankakee and Illinois rivers, passing the nativo village
(then temporarily abandoned) situated ab( ut wliere Utica
now is. On January .", 1680. he arrived at the camp of the
Illinois at Pimetoui. or Peoria lake, and here he lodged with
them, and soon began to arrange for the building of a fort
near by. and for a ship in which to descend the Mississippi
river to the sea. '
Etiirlisli at llu' Bay of t lit> Norili. -.lioiild t lilnsia so wrotr.;. Tlicy coiilil only liav»»
taken this route in soini: by the irii»iun at tlio hay (.St. Francois Xavicri. he wrote.
Th(M'elt vanoy of this note is. tliat lliese niisijuided nu-ii, tluis talvinj: t lieit- lives in
their liands. by startlnj; northward from the tnoiith of the Wiseonsln wlienco Joliet
and Maniuette had started southward sl\ years before, to some extent were the
forerunners of Hennepin.
1. There are reasons for thinkinif that diirini,' tlie time La Salle was making his
discoveries referred to th.at were never exactly reported, lie had explored the
Illinois river from its head, near the Chiea)?o portage, to the permanent village of
these Indians oi>posite the "Starved Rock" familiar to lovers of theromantic. If
this be so it fully explains liow he so conttdently sent men into the 'vilderness to
prepare for his e imiiig. and even how he, possilily, may have had this very emin-
ence in mind as a fitting site f,.r tlie proposed fort, for whicli he had even selected
ii name In advance—" Fort I>au|)hin "—as appears by his lettei' of Octoi)er 31. ItiTx.
Circumstances prevented his i.eutenant Tonty from builuing a fort on "The
Rock" (as the French called it) In the spring of Itlsi), ai rding to orders sent
back to him by La Salle then en route eastward ; but witliin three years It was
built here, under the supervision t)f Ixith. T'lis estalilisliinent was the civilized
nucleus of the native settlements the latter had long been endeavoring to gather
around him. A confirmation of tlie idea that La Salle had a prior knowledge of
the upper part, at least, of the Illinois valley maybe derived from an incidental
expression to be found in a memoir fi'om his pi'u, written when in Paris endeavor-
ing to Interest men of position in his projected settlement near the mouth of the
Mississippi. "M.deLagny had proposed the establishment of tliis fort in Iims
after having learned its importance ; after which Mgr. Colbert i)ermitted Sieur de
La Salle to make it and gave him the ownership of It." La Salle was a courtier.
72 THK MISSISSIIMM KIVKU AND ITS SOUUCK.
Altli()u«;li tho head mt'ii of tin* Illinois Indians hero had
assured him, on his tirst arrival, that the Mississippi was
naviprabl*' to the sea, yet they shortly after were tampered
with by an emissary and then they endeavored to deter
the Frenchmen by tales of the great danj?ers to be
encountered in the lower part of its course. There were
to be found there warlike barbarians who would slay all
strangers ; th»» water was full of serpents and other
monsters ; falls and precipices extended for leagues with
a current so violent that no one could escape who was
once drawn in ; and finally, the whole river disappeared
in a great chasm and ran under the ground, and no one
knew where it came to light again. La Halle refused
to be swerved from his purpose by those frightful accounts,
and went on with his work ; but six of his men deserted
him through fear. Indeed, he did not believe these stories
at all, though he obtained by stratagem a more reassuring
account from one of their returning war-chiefs, which was
confirmed later by visitors from the Chicachas, Akansas,
and Osages, from the south. In his letter of Sept. 28,
1680, he writes that besides these tribes, and the Matou-
tantas from the west, "Others called Chaa who live on
the upper part of the great river arrived on February
24 and invited us to go to their homes, where they said
■was a great quantity of beavers and furs, and that they
were not far from tho sea of the West.' One of the
and doubtless contrived that these high otfl<'ials sliould bolieve that they were
riiiikiiif? St ril<iii^l.v oii^riiial su;zgesti()ns ; wlieo llic first naiiicd proposed tlie ijiiild-
iiifj of a fort on the Illinois, and the latter desired a port for French vessels to be
discovered In the Gulf of Ik'.exico.
1 There has been some speculation as to whothese people were.but secinji thatit was
custonuiry then, as now, to contract Indian and oilier proper names for colloquial
purposes— as for instance Nadouessioux to Sioux, Pouteouatamls to Poux, Osages
THK FKKNCH ACCOUNTS ('()NTINI:KI>. 78
three reverend UccoiU'ct t'jithers who luul accoinpanicd m«>
that far otlV'red himself, with two of my bravest men. to
make this voyaj;*'. in order not to los«» tiic opportunity
to announct' the «;ospel to tribes who had never heard
speak of it. They left the last day of Februaiy in a
canoe."
This vicari'nis expedition was the one. so well known
to posterity, which enabled Father llenn(»pin to discover
the great falls of the Mississipj)! river, never before, it
is supposed, seen by European eyes. The books pub
lished by Hennepin, tof^ether with the reports and letters
of La Salle and his friends. supj)lemented by the paper
of Duluth, are suthciont to enable a good account of the
geographical results of this journey to be compiled, in
spite of the absence of journals showing lines of travel
in detail. The men selected to accompany Hennepin were
one Michael Accault and another Anthony Auguelle nick-
named the Picard, and they were furnished with goods
for presents to the Indians. La Salle at a later time
to Os, Kiinsiis to Ivsms, etc -the Chaa riuiy havo iMun the Ohaiena of tLo JoUet
iiiiip, the same as tlic Sliyt'iiiu'M, or Clieyfiiru-s. of to-day, who have gradually heeii
driven to the west and southwest of their fuitner hal)itati(>iis. Tliis map, entitled
Ciiite (lenerale lie hi France xeplrntrinnnlr, shows vitiUt tril)al names strung alotitrthe
east side of tlie upper Mississippi al)<)ve tlic •"Siou" ; of wliieli names Hianetoua is
lowest down. Chaiena the fifth in order, and Allnioupi^oiak (supposed to l)o the
present Asslniboins) farthest to tlie nortliwest. Tliat tlie Chaas were not )ne of
the Daliota bands proper, or Nad<niessiou.\. would appear probat)h! from tlie fact
that Aceault understood inost of the northwestern lan^iuaRes except thatof the
SioHX; but as he was not going to them with Ills party a knowledireof theirlan«u-
atie was not indispensable, as La .Salle showed when defending himself. Although
the Sbyennes seem to have been for a long time the friends and allies of the
Dakotas, yet modern research has shown that pliilologieally they are not akin to
them but to the Algomiuins. In this aspect they form the counterpart of the
Asslniboins who, though their language is similar to that of tne Dakotas, to whose
stock they belong, are their hereditary enemies and affiliate with the Algomiuln na-
tions instead. Dr. F. V. Hayden, in his Indian tribes of the Mitmouri valleu, (18C2.) gives
among the various names by which the Shyennes were known tliose of Sharas,
Sliawhays, and Sharshas, from any one of which three the abbreviated word Chaa
(eh pronounced like sh) might have been formed.
74 TUK MISSISSIIMM KIVKU AND ITS SOUKCK.
(lOH^i, wiuMi (li'fi'iulin;,' hinist'lf from invidious criticism,
suys oxpn»ssl3' that Im> did not srnd Accault to tlu' Nadoiu's-
Hious, but to uscond the (ir<»at liivoi- ; addinjr. to show the
ominont Htnoss of the man for such a task, that lit' liad
spent two winters aiul one siuniner amon^ the nations,
whose acfjuaintance they made when willi the Illinois, and
had seen several of the most important villages by which
he was to pass'.
These thn'e men left Fort CrovecoMii" on llie L'9th of
February. IGhU. in their loaded canoe, and arrived at the
mouth of the Illinois river March 7th. when^ they had
to wait tive days on account of the tloating ice. Ascend-
ing the Mississippi, they passed on the left the river of
the Outontantas. Paoto, and Maskouten Nadouessioux,
(Sioux of die Prairie.) now the Des Moines. Somcnvhere
above this stream it was, between Burlington and Uock
Island but nearer to the former, that they met witli the
lar^e Sioux war party, who took them captive, and who.
havin«? abandoned their original plan, now returned home
ward. Next beyond the Des Moines they noted on the
east side the river Ouisconsin. or Wisconsin, also known
to the savages as Meschetz Odeba. Next to that came
the Chabaouadeba of the Nadouessioux. otherwise the
Noire, now the Black river between La Crosse and Treni-
1. Tills stiili'iiR-iit. if tiiketi cxai'tly. is worthy of notlL-i". Srt'iii}; tluif less than
two months elapx'd fioui Ihc tliiu.' L:i Siillf's party aitivcd aiiioiifi tho Illinois till
At'cault aiul lils (.•oinpaiiioiis li-ft for the upper Mississippi, this man could not have
niado the a('()uaintarK'o of the western Indians uiiless he had hi'cn sent there some
time in i)rior years. Probably be was amon^ the fiteen men who were sent in ad-
vance, as mentioned in the te.xt a few pages back, and may have extended his
travels to the Mississippi, afterwards being taken Into favor ajjain when La i?alle
arrived at Lake Micbl;;an. Reckoning the two months stay with the Illinois as the
second winter of Accault's residence amou^ the Mississippi tribes, may be consid-
ered a pardonable exaKifemtiou for rhetorical purposes.
THK FUKNCn ACCOUNTS ( ONTINL'KI). 75
]M'l»»au. Tll^hor still, on i\w sam«« Hldo, was th« fivor Dos
IJu'ufs. ()x«'n rivor, now the Chippowa. which they ox-
j)lonMl for ton or tw^'lvc U»a<7iiPs. Half a l«>a^u«» ahovo
this eomin(!n(«'<l the Loc ihs I'hurs, Tjak*' of Toars oi-
Woopin^. as Hcnm»pin namod it, now calU'U Pepin. Noxt.
a str»'ani without nanii'. to whi«'h Honnopin ^av»' thf ap-
pellation Du Tombcaii. or (rravo rivor, now tho St. Croix.
In ninotoen days fi'oni tho time of their capture thoy all
arrived at a landin<^ place in a cove four or fiv(* loapuos
below the falls of St. Anthony.
This landing pla<'o was probably sotnowlu'ro on tho (innid
Mftrais of tho modorn French, tho Pi<i:'s Eye flats of the
Americans, two to five miles below Phalens cre»'k in tho
lower part of the city of St. Paul. Here the Indians hid
their canoes, and every thin<^ else was carried by them and
their captives overland for sixty leagues to tho villa;;os of
tlio former on or near the Lac ties /ssnti, now Millc Lacs, or
the Rum river which issued from it. This lake was osti
mated to be sixty loaj^ues west of Lake Superior, and it was
there, as well as in the islands and country surrounding it.
with other lakes whence rise several rivers, that lay tho
country of the various tribes then comprehended under the
general name of Nadouessioux. In the beginning of July,
the Indians set out in separate parties on a buffalo hunt.
Hennepin and his companions accompanied the one that
descended Rum river, the river of the Nadouessioux, but
now christened St. Francis by our missionary. Arriving at
its mouth the party camped on an eminence opposite it.
most probably the rising ground in the southern part of the
present village of Champlain. Although the Indians had
ascended the Mississippi river very far, they could say
70 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEH AND ITS SOUUCK.
nothing about its source; but they told the Frenchmen that
at twenty or thirty leagues above the great falls there was a
second fall at the foot of which were some villages of the
prairie people called Tintonha, w^ho lived there a part of the
year. There will probably be no opposition to the theory
that this fall was what was later known as JSauk Rapids.
Hennepin and Auguelle were allowed to leave the Indians at
the camp opposite Rum river in a canoe together, as Accault
preferred to stay behind with the Indians there, in order to
go down to the Wisconsin river where La Salle had prom-
ised to send men to meet them with supplies and news from
the settlement. Seven or eight leagues down the river they .
came to where it forms a cataract of thirty or forty feet
high, which they beheld first of all white men, so far as is
known, and which Father Louis named after St. Anthony of
Padua. The two men did not quite reach the Wisconsin; for
one of the chiefs overtook them and went hastily ahead to
arrive there first and seize whatever goods he could. But
within three days they met him returning discomfited, hav-
ing found neither Frenchmen nor goods, the fact being that
the former had been discouraged or dissuaded and did not
go as far as where they were ordered to go. Hennepin and
his companion, therefore, now turned back again and
rejoined their Indian party at the Chippewa river, as far as
which the latter had descended, hunting as they came.
Accault was with them. The hunting party continued down
the river apparently about as far south as what is now the
stream called Apple river in the northwest corner of the
State of Illinois, taking their former captives along with
them. Having finished their hunt they turned northward
again, and on the 25th of July, they met the Sieur Du Luth '
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 77
and his men, who were descending the river expressly to
find Hennepin and the two Frenchmen. The place of meet-
ing was probably about ten miles above the present city of
Dubuque. ^
The combined parties now continued their journey, by
the Rum river route, to the Issati villages, where they
arrived on August 14. Towards the end of September,
having no means with which to begin an establishment,
they resolved to return to the French settlements; and so
accompanied by Du Luth, eight Frenchmen in two canoes,
they descended the Rum and Mississippi rivers and
ascended the Wisconsin, to return to Canada by the Green
Bay route.
In addition to the various Hennepin books, there was
published in France, in 1697, a volume purporting to be
written by the Chevalier Tonty, but the authorship of which
he disavowed. The work contains, however, in an inciden-
tal way, some interesting information, which, if true, is of
1. Du Luth's name has to be Introduced here Incidentally, but It may not be out
of place to show, la addition, how he came to be so opportunely on hand. He
was an independent explorer or adventurer, who the year before had visited the
Nadoussioux, reaching the '"great village of the Izatys" on July 2, 1079, at wliicli
pla"e lie says there had been no Frenchman before hlin. The next year he
thought he would enter the Sioux country from Lake Superior by tlie more cir-
cuitous water route; so he ascended the Brule and descended the St. froix. At
themouthof the latter he met some Sioux who told him about the captivity of
Hennepin and his canoemen, which caused him to set out to overtake the hunting
party and the captives, instead of proceeding directly to the village of the
Nadouessloux. This Incident caused him to change his plans, he says, which had
been, in his own words, "to push on to the sea in a west-northwesterly direction,
which 1e that which is believed to be the Red sea, whence the Indians who liad
gone warring on that side gave salt to three Frenchmen whom I had sent] exploring.
and who brought me said salt, havhig I'cported to me that the Indians had told
them that it was only twenty days journey from where tliey were to find the great
lake of which the waters were worthless to drink." The men he refers to here
who were impliedly sent out in 1679 from the "Izatys village," must have gone
beyond the Mississippi river some distance and thus have been among its discov-
erers; but the headwaters of the river presented no such charming prospects of
trade and power as its lower portion did, and were consequently talked about and
thought of merely in an incidental way, when at all.
78
THE MISSISSIPPI HIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
the highest importance in this connection. In it is stated
how La Salle appointed "M. Dacan" to make an exploration
of the lands lying along the river Mississippi running
■Ji4.ci.li eels
Ant*""*'"'"
laOKlOB
TAUT OF CAKTE DE LA NOUVELLE FllANCE, ET DE LA LOTTISIANE.
* REVEREND PEKE LOUIS HENNEPIN. 168.3.
northeast, and selected the Recollect Father Louis with four
other Frenchmen to accompany him. They embarked the
28th of February. 1680, on the river of the Illinois, which
they descended to the Mississippi, and then ascended the
latter "as far as 550 leagues towards the north, at seven
THE FUENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 79
leagues from its source, divergfinjsr from time to time on one
side or the other of the banks to reconnoitre the different
nations who lived there. This river issues from a great
spring [source] on the top of a hill, which borders a very
beautiful plain in the country of the Issati, in 50^ of lati-
tude. At four or five leagues from its source it becomes so
enlarged by five or six rivers which empty into it, that it is
capable of floating boats."
Further on it states that Dacan "placed, at two leagues
from the source of this Great River, the arms of the king
on the trunk of a great tree in sight of all these nations."
This publication was very likely a piece of bookseller's
hack work, and its account of the expedition differs widely
from that given in the works of Hennepin himself and the
La Salle documents. Still the description of the source of
the Mississippi has such suggestions of the actual truth as
regards the grand topographical features of the country,
the Jiwjtertrs des terres and the great j)lains of the Red
river west of them, that it is more likely to have been
derived from Indian sources, through the medium oC Accault
or some other French voyageur, than to have been con-
ceived entirely in the brain of a compiler in a Paris Grub
Street.
The doings of La Salle, from ihe time he left his Illinois
fort near Peoria lake two days after Hennepin's departure,
till he descended the Illinois river two years later to proceed
on the long meditated journey to the mouth of the Missis-
sippi, are well known and need only a passing reference
here. In these two years this "much enduring man" made
long journeys by land and water between the colony and his
settlement. He was in danger from war parties of savages,
80 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
exposed unsheltered to the rigors of winter; suffered many
times from hunger; and lastly was betrayed by some and ill
supported by others of those who served under him. Yet
he never faltered, but with whatever means he had still did
his best. In the light of our present knowledge, he was not
the discoverer of the lower part of the Mississippi river
and of its mouths; in his own eyes he was, and reasonably
and honestly too, as will be hereafter shown; therefore in a
geographical memoir like this it would not be right to omit
reference to the journey he had so set his heart upon.
It has been maintained by some of La Salle's xnore enthu-
siastic admirers that the waters of the Mississippi itself, as
well as those of the Ohio and Illinois, were seen by him
sometime between 1669 and 1672, prior to the voyage of
Joliet; but this theory, at the best, has not met with more
than respectful attention. It is a little singular, had he
already seen the Mississippi, that in his own writings, and
in official papers friendly to him. no statement can be found
showing that at the time he made his settlement on the
Illinois river, and later when ready to start upon the actual
journey of discovery, he had in mind any other idea than
that he was going to a river no portion of which he had ever
seen before. Writing in September. 1680, he plainly states
that he had diligently inquired of the natives when at the
Illinois village on Peoria Lake, as well as of the visiting
Indians from tribes down the river, concerning the character
and navigability of the Mississippi; and that they told him
marvels of it. which he says, he postpones writing about
until he shall have ascertained their truth. His idea was to
have the productions of the country (buffalo hides ap-
parently) exported by way of the Gulf; but he considered
THF. FRENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 81
that even if the river did not prove navigable to the sea, it
would not be necessary to return to the expensive and dan
gerous way of the lakes, but that by means of the river
which he had found the commodities of the country of the
Illinois could be transported to Fort Frontenac. This river
he says was the one called by him Baudrane, by the Iroquois
the Ohio, and by the Outaouas Olighin-cipou, which entered
into the Colbert 20 to 25 leagues south-one- quarter of south-
west of the mouth of the Illinois'. When all was ready they
began the descent. Arriving at the Akansas villages, Joliet's
lowest point, possession was taken of the country of Lou-
isiana^ in the name of the king of France. This occurred
on March 13, 1682, with great ceremony at Kapaha''.
The proclamation included all the country between the
mouth of the St. Louis, called also Ohio, Olighin-sipou,
and Chukagoua; and along this and each of the rivers
which empty into it on the east; also the country as far
as the mouth of the river of Palms on the west, along the
1. The very Incorrect distance, less than one-third of reality, and the false
bearing hero given, do not favor tlie idea tliat La Salle was speaking from liis own
knowledge of the localities. Indeed it did not reciuire a personal visit to conclude
that the Ohio flowing westward must enter somewhere into the Colbert flowing
southward.
2. Margry shows that the first known use of this geograpliical term was by La
Salle, in a private document dated June 10th, 1079.
3. The reader will probably be reminded here of the Kapaha of the Soto expe-
dition mentioned by the historian Garcllaso, but the locality Is not the sanie.
Tliis word togetlier with Castjnia, Chisca, Cliicaca, and Clutkagoua, were all tliat
wore met with by La Salle of those streams and villages the nomenclature
of which belongs to the Soto narratives. It is true that when witli the Illi-
nois he speaks of hearing from the Indiansof the geographical names reported by
the prior expedition referred to, among wliicli was Aminoia, the place of Moscoso's
embarking; but on going down the riverhemust liavc found he had misunderst(M)d
It, for neither he nor bis lieutenants mention the word again. The name of this
ancient village seems to appear, under a somewhat different form, in a certain sen-
tence to be found in a book of American travel by J. F. D. Smyth, published in
178-i. Among the tributaries of the Mississipp mentioned by him Is "the Imahans
or Arkansaw river,"
-6 -■■-,'..• ■■■■. ■■•_■.■• .■ ■ _ '■ f. -
82 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
Colbert called Mississippi, and all the rivers which des-
cend into it on the east. The three passes of the river
were reached in April and descended to their mouths; and
on the 9th, at the first firm land above the head of the
delta, formal possession was again taken; and the terms
of possession were to the same effect practically as at
Kapaha, but contained some additional geographical defini-
tions. There was included all the country along the Col-
bert or Mississippi and the streams emptying into it "from
its source beyond the country of the Sioux or Nadous-
sioux" to its mouth at the sea or Gulf of Mexico, "on the
assurance that we have had from all this nation that we
are the first Europeans who have descended or ascended
the said river Colbert."
Later, when at leisure at his fort of St. Louis on the
Illinois riv^er, as appears by some loose sheets in his hand-
writing. La Salle seems to have pondered on the geo-
graphical results and relations of his discovery, and ar-
rived at the conclusion that the river he had just explored
was not the Chucagua or Rio Grande of Soto and Moscoso.
However, the identifying the Ohio with the Chucagua in
the two proclamations is not necessarily to be looked upon
as a strict geographical definition, but rather as a polit-
ical precaution employed to cover and anticipate all adverse
claims to possession.
When in the next century the geography of the inter-
ior of the country became better understood, it was seen
that he was mistaken; but he had argued well, though from
scanty and erroneous data. The Soto expedition was in
his mind, and he looked for populous nations; for an open
country on the banks of a very wide river; and for other
THE FliENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 83
thin^ which he did not meet with. Below the mouth of
the Ohio he neither saw nor heard of hirgo streams flow-
ing from the east, from far back in the interior of the
country, emptying themselves into the Mississi])pi river,
similar to the Arkansas and Red rivers, on the west side.
These things made him think that the Chukagoa could
not be very far off to the eastward, running southerly to
the Gulf. Still he had been told that it did enter the
Mississippi, which he considered possible; for the follow-
ing reason. Commencing above the Akaiisa villages there
was a great island, or rather many islands, which extended
for sixty or eighty leagues; and he thought that somewhere
on the eastern side of this island the Chucagoa might come
in*. However, he was not able to decide the question be-
cause they took the west channel in descending and had
to use it in coming back; for they had left most of their
baggage with the Akansa.
A reasonable explanation of the geographical complica-
tions caused by the somewhat mythic, and yet real,
Chukagoa river may be offered. Away to the eastward, in
the Appalaxjhian mountains, the army of Soto had come
upon the headwaters of a river which ran westward and
which (where they struck it again a year later) the natives
called Chucagua; meaning as La Salle afterwards said,
"The Great River, like Mississipi in Outaouas and Mascic-
cipi in Illinois." Now this stream was the Tennessee which
these Spaniards, ignorant of the abrupt bend it makes to
the northward at a point far beyond where they left it, not
unnaturally supposed to continue the same general course.
1 The same island already described in a foot-note treating of Radisson's Bivvr
th<it Divides Itmelf in Two.
84 THE MISSISSIPPI UIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
Arriving at the Mississippi itself they concluded they wore
on the lower part of the same river of which they had
already behold the sources. Could La Salle have realized
the truth that his river and Soto's were one and the same, he
might have spared himself much thought. His error in
supposing that they were not may have been partly owing
to the maps of the day. As already mentioned here, in
treating of the Spanish discoveries, these maps portrayed
in the interior of the country a complicated hydrography, of
which the Spirito Santo bay and river were prominent
features, and which proved later to be entirely irreconcilable
with the truth. They were evidently useless to an explorer
descending a stream from the interior, w^ho might have
desired to find at what part of the Gulf coast he had
arrived. No delta of a large river appeared on the north
shore in any of these maps or charts and, with the exception
of the bay referred to, the topography was very obscure. '
Somewhat in the sense in which La Salle discovered the
lower portion of the Mississippi river in 1682, it was also
discovered seventeen years later by Iberville. As has
already been shown, the foi mer was finally led to believe
that Soto had not preceded him in his descent of the river,
and therefore, considered himself an original discoverer.
In its turn La Salle's claim was not universally admitted ;
iLa Salle's real Ideas about the position of the mouth of the river were that It
was a long way west of the Saint Esprit or Spirito Santo l)ay. Ho wrote in the de-
tached leaves bt^fore mentioned, "Moreover, all the maps are worthless, or tlie
mouth of the Colbert is near to Mexico; because it has its mouth to the east-
southeast and not to tlie south, as all the south coast of Florida faces, except
that which runs from the river called Escondldo on the maps as far as Panuco.
This Escondido is surely the Mississippi."
He further showed that it could not be the peninsula of Florida where the rive r
emptied, as that was not wide enough for the Colbert, which "bears to the east,
or at most to the southeast, mailing in this direction at least one hundrer" and
twenty leagues from the 30th to the 27th degree of latitude when It discharges it-
THK FUENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 86
for it was said at Paris, oven by somo hi«?h in authority,
that the river which h<» descended was nothing new as it
doubtless emptied into the bay Saitit Esprit. In reality said
bay had only been a " jjeojrraphical ex])ression " to him. and
certainly was no more to his critics.
The story of La Salle's expedition by sea, in 1684, to the
irulf of Mexico for colonizing purpo.ses is well known, and
only needs mention here. In a few years the explorer was
dead and the colony a thing of the past. After a while
various men of enterprise solicited the French government
for authority and means to continue the work ; not in the
region towards the Spaniards whore La Salle lost himself,
but at the entrance of the Mississippi. The government,
however, was no way anxious to form establishments at the
mouth of the river at once, but only desired to complete the
discovery in order to hinder the English from taking posses-
sion there.
The fortunate man to have charge of this expedition was
Le Moyne d" Iberville. He sailed westward along the coast
from the peninsula of Florida, intending to carefully examine
all the land for fifty or sixty leagues beyond it. Above all
he wished to note the rivers as far as the "Bay of Saint-
Esprit." where all his vessels were to rendezvous, and into
self Into tlio sea; .Wiich Is impossible within the width of tlieCapeof Florida,
but precisely suits the bearing of Escondido. Tliat it is whiuli makes me main-
taia that we were near Mexico and consequently in anotlior river than the Cbu-
cuKoa, wliere tlie Spaniards were so long a time before arriving in Mexico."
Tliis Escondido, or I'idden river, of the Spaniards, was subscciuently known to
them as the Rio Bravo del Norte, at present Rio Grande, and in part forming the
international boundary between the United States and Mexico. Besides his being
misled by the eAaggeration of the Soto story and by tlie indefinite coast line
topography of the then current maps. La Salle had failed by two degrees In ascer-
taining the true latitude of the mouths of the Mississippi, wliich are in about 29"
instead of 27". These considerations show how he was drawn into irretrievable
error, though having the best Intentions. He was thus the innocent cause of the
very erroneous way In which the lower part of the river that he had explored to
the sea was represented on the great map of the geographer Franquelin.
86 THK MISSISSII'IM UIVKK AND ITS SOUKCE.
which ho would «?o iiiid ascertain if the Mississippi really
entered it. The bay was said ^o be one hundred leagues
east of the Bay St. Louis where La Salle had settled down.
When Iberville arrived at Mobilo bay he considered the
river then; ldr«;e enou<?h to be th»» Mississippi sought for ;
but for sufficient reasons concluded that it was not the one
the travellers descended.
Thence he coasted westward until he found a harbor for
his vessels, afterward known as Biloxi, where they anchored.
Here he learned from the Indians that the river he sought
for was some fifteen or twenty leagues farther and that it
'vas known to them as the Malbanchia, and was the same as
that called by the Spaniards the River of the Palisades, On
the 27th of February he left his fleet in the harbor and with
a strong force in smaller craft departed to reconnoitre the
environs of the Lago de Lodoor Mud Lake, '"which is what
the Spaniards call the one named on the maps the Baye du
SaintEsprif." On the night ofMarch '2, 1699, he put into the
entry of the Mississippi River. '
Through the efforts of himself and his brother Bienville,
the lower part of the river was thoroughly examined, but he
was surprised and disappointed in not being able to recog-
nize the islands and branches of the river he had read about
1. T'p to this time t)>e Spaniards seem to have acted Uke the dog in the ir.an.::iT
In respect to tilt' lower Mississippi river, and the sliores of the Gulf of Mexico to
tlie east and west . Although the entire coast line had lonR ago been explored l)y
their ships no information eoncerniuf? it was directly published. They evidently
knew about the embouchure of the river, for they had called it the River of the
Palisiides on account of the bristling appearance presented by the trees which hud
drifted down from al)ove and lodged at the outlets at the delta, where they
remained and lulped to form bars. They, the Spaniards, told Iliervllle, that l)y
reason of these barst'uT" was no entry, but he writes that he did not believe the
report. A Spanish p.lo; told Chasteaumorant, one of the French officers, that lie
did not know anj Mississippi river, but that he had heard speak of a river call'd
the River of Canad^i, beyond the " Islands of San Diego. "
THE KRKNCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUKO. 87
Ncith«!r could ho tiud the Quiniiippissas and Tan^lpahcxjs of
the expedition of L:i Sj,lle ; but he afterward «»xplainod this
on the j?round that the true names of some of the tribes had
been suppressed throuj^h policy. When, however, the letter
which Tonty in 10^5 had l«>ft Ijehind with the Indians to be
g^iven to La Salle when he should ascend the river a^ain.
was placed in his hands, all doubts vanished, and Iberville
knew that the riddle was at last read. He knew now that
the Mississippi did not debouch in any Spirlto Santo Bay of
doubtful identity, nor was an Esrondklo emptying into the
jjulf at its extreme western side, but on the contrary that it
was identical with a river in the centre of tiie northern coast,
whose well defined delta, however, through leglect or acci-
dent, had never yet been represented. ai)parently, on the
charts of a sea already navigated for nearly two centuries.
With this first voyage of Ibervillt the story of French dis-
covery and exploration of the Mississippi river, so far as re
gards the lower four-fifths of its course, is virtually brought
to an end. Concerning this upper fifth, or that part of the
river which lay beyond the farthest point reached by Hen-
nepin in 1680 — the entrance of the river of the Xadouessioux,
now Rum river — there only remain some minor incidental esti-
mates, remarks and rumors, to be found in various miscella-
neous books and documents. Such as they are, however,
they are here collected together, and may not be unworthy
of the reader's attention.
In the year 1701, a man named Mathieu Sagean claimed
that he had been with La Salle in 1083 at the Fort St. Louis
on the Illinois, and, having obtained Tonty's permission, had
left there with a number of companions to ascend the Miss-
issippi river to malte discoveries. His story ran, that at
88 ThE MISSISSIIM'I KIVKii AND ITS snL'UlE.
ubout iT)*) l«'a;iriu!.s from tlm luoutli of tlio Illinois, thoy cumo
U) u hi^h fall in tho river, around which it was necessary to
make u jjorta^e of six lea^fues; that beyond this they trav-
elled 40 lea^'ues or more to a place where they staid for two
and a half months, and hunted all around, but saw no
Indians; that at 14 leajfues away (^iven elsewhere 40) they
found a river runniuj^ south southwest, upon which the3'
emV)arked and descended for -40 leagues, until they arrived
at the populous country of the Acaaniba, some 200 leagues
in extent. Of this region he told wonderful tales; about its
immense riches in gold and other property; its king, stand-
ing army; brave men and virtuous women, etc. Sagean was
an illiterate man, so. after being ([uestioned by government
ofRcials about his travels, his account was reduced to writing,
but it was soon decided to be unworthy of any confidence, or
at least the first part of it which describes the journey west
of the Mississippi. The narrative remained in MS. until
within a few years; when published it made some sixty pages
or so, the first quarter of which describes the fabulous south-
western travels. Had he been a man of education, like Hen-
nepin or La Hontan, he would undoubtedly have written a
book, and have accompanied it with some sort of a plagiar-
ized or imaginative map. as they did, which would have been
an infliction on geographers for a generation or two, but,
fortunately for posterity, he was not. There are probably
but few general readers, who. though the names of the first
two archerH may be familiar to them as household words,
are acquainted with the abortive hoax of Sagean.
The trader and explorer Pierre Le Sueur, when at Paris,
in a letter written in 1701, showed that this man Sagean
was an imposter, as he had known him in Canada bearing
THE FKKNCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUKU. 89
a different nam«'; anC that his story of now discoveries was
SI falsoliood, as in statements which wore susceptible of
veiitlcation h«» was clearly wide' of the truth. After saying
that more than two years lieforn he had Ix'cn at the Falls
of St. Anthony with the Sioux and had asc«>rtained the
lenji^th of tlie portajfe there to be no more than ir)00 paces,
Le Sueur continues: "I have already said that I had
ascended more than lUO l«'aj,'u«'s above the Falls of St.
Anthony, which is Um only place where it is necessary to
carry one's canoe and ba^'^'a^'e, in ascending the Mississipi
from its mouth to its source, and the Sioux with whom I
went up assured me that there were yet more ihan ten days
journey to ascend. It is at least 100 leagues before coming
to the sources of the Mississipi. 1 say sources, because
there are many of them, according to the report of the
savages."
The distance of 100 leagues here given would bring Le
bueur to a point about four miles holow Sandy lake, but as.
of course, that was only an estimate, the termination of his
journey may be safely put at that place, where, doubtless,
as in more modern times, the Indians had a village. His
estimate of a like distance beyond, of 100 leagues to the
source of the river from the place where he turned back, if
it be Sandy lake, is also a good approximation, being
within twenty-one miles of the actual distance if the Itasca
branch were meant; but is still nearer the truth if the
Turtle river source were understood, as it probably was.
Le Page du Pratz, author of a well-known History of
Louisiana, written in 1757, went to that colony in 1718 and
remained there sixteen years. In this book, speaking of
the Mississippi river, he states that, *' Many travelers
90
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEU AND ITS SOURCE.
have tried in vain to reach its source, which, however, is
known, whatever some ill-informed authors may have said;
here is what is the most certain concerning the source of
this great river of North America." He then relates a
story, which, having
been received by
him at first hand,
we have no reason
to doubt. He says
that a M. du Charle-
ville, a relation of
the governor Bien-
ville, told him that
at the time of the
settlement of the
French, curiosity
had led him to as-
cend the river to
seek its source.
PAKT OF CAIIT DU CANADA, OU DE LA NOU- TTr;4.r, 4^,^^ n^^<.A\,...^
VELLK FUANCE, DE l'isle. 1703. ^ith two Canadums
and two Indians, in a birch bark canoe he went up the river
300 leagues above the Illinois, where he found the falls
called St. Anthony's, a flat rock crossing the river giving it
only eight or ten feet descent. Making the portage there,
he ascended 100 leagues farther to the country of the
Sioux, whom" he found engaged in hunting, and who were
very much surprised to see him. They told him that it was
a very bad country, very little game in it, and that the
source was as far from the falls as the falls were from the
sea. Du Pratz says the latter distance was reckoned at 800
leagues, and considered the Indian estimate probable taking
THE FUENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 9i
into account the size of the river above the falls. There are
there 80 to 35 fathoms of water, he writes, with a breadth in
proportion, which amount of water could never have come
from a source not far removed; and all the Indians, informed
by those nearer the head of the river, were of the same
opinion. Charleville seems to have been deterred by these
reports of the Indians, who exaggerated matters, probably,
to make him turn back; for Pu Pratz says he did not see
the source of the Mississippi. Elsewhere, in concluding
his observations on the Sioux and the upper Mississippi,
our author says: "However, we need not trouble ourselves
concerning our interests m this very distant region; many
centuries must pass before we shall have penetrated these
northern countries of Louisiana."
Penicaut, one of Le Sueur's men, in his Annals of Louis-
iana, wrote — "To the present time [say 172:2] no one has
discovered the source of the Missouri, any more than that
of the Mississippi."
Sieur Mandeville, in a memoir written in 1709, says: —
"They ascend {on remonte) the Mississippi as far as its
source, which is about 1000 leagues from the sea. They
descend it without much trouble."
Lamothe Cadillac was a French army ofllcer stationed
at Mackinaw and Detroit in the early years of the eigh-
teenth century. In an elaborate memoir by him dated
1718, written probably during his enforced leisure in the
Bastile, he uses these words: — "As regards the source of
the Mississippi river, we can say that it is in 48'^ lati-
tude and 276" longitude. It apparently has its origin
in some lake, which forms another river, going to the
north and discharging itself into the great lake of the
9Z THE MISSISSIPPI UIVEll AND ITS SOURCE.
Assiniboels. which forms rivers without end that empty
themselves towards Fort Nelson, and into other great
bays. This lake is called by the savages the Grandfather
of All the Lakes, meaning by that expression that it is
incomparably greater than all the others."
The Company of the Indies, authorized in 1717, states,
in an undated memoir or prospectus, that it is formed to
make PstablLshments in Louisiana and other countries of
enormous extent, from the mouth of the Mississippi and
Mobile rivers "as far as the two sources of the river
Mississippi in the north, about 800 leagues, which is the
general course of that river." Possibly by this expres-
sion of "two sources" is meant the head-waters of the
Mississippi proper and those of the Missouri.
The elder Verendrye in 1737 sent to France a general map
of the country lying to the westward and northwestward of
Lake Superior, as known to the French by that time from
their explorations or from information received from the
Indians. On it our Red lake is represented as emptying
through the Red river into Winnipeg lake on the one side,
and on the ojjposite is shown as connected by a stream with
the Mississippi. This stream is naturally a combination of
the upper Red Lake river and Turtle river. From the
mouth of the latter another little river reaches out west-
ward and heads in a small lake to the south or southwest of
Red lake, which stream and lake bear the expression
Source du Mississipy.
From this time on till the speculations of the English
travellers and authors, beginning a quarter of a century
later, were printed, nothing seems to have been written con-
cerning the source of the river; nor do the maps published
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED.
93
during that interval throw much additional light on the
subject.
N. B. As may be readily imagined, the books conculted
by me in the compilation of this monograph are entirely too
numerous for individual mention. The greater part of them
are to be found on the shelves of the library of the Minne-
Su^erio r
PART OF CAKTE DES NOUVELLES DE' COUVERTES A 1. 'GUEST DE L.V
NOUVELLE TRANCE, DRESSE SURLES MEMORIES
DE MR. DEL' ISLE. 1750.
sota Historical Society, which possesses a good collection of
French authorities treating of American history in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries, and has made a beginning towards
obtaining a similar one of Spanish works relating to the dis-
covery of America, and to its history while under the rule
of Spain. There are, however, among all these a few which
have been of such signal use in furnishing original facts,
that it would be sheer ingratitude not to indicate my great
94 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE. -
obligations to them. These books are enumerated as fol-
lows:
1. The Ilistoria general y natural de las Inclias Occidentales of
Oviedo, (1535,) as reprinted at Madrid in 1851-55, in 4
vols., 4to. The entire fourth volume had never
before been published.
2. Relation des Jesuites, dc, dans la Nouvelle France, 1632-1672.
Reprinted at Quebec in 1858, in 3 vols., large Bvo.
This was a practically new book, for the original
issue, in forty-one volumes, was entirely out of reach
of the ordinary scholar.
3. Le Journal des Jesuites, 1645-1668. Edited by Abbes
Laverdiere and Casgrain, and first published at Que-
bec, 1871.
4. Decouvertes et Etablissements des Francais dans Vouest et
dans le sud de VAmerique Septentrionale, 1614-1754.
[Edited by Pierre Magry] 6 vols. Paris, 1876-1886.
A very valuable historical quarry. Still, though ofiB-
cially declared completed, this work has neither al-
phabetical index nor atlas of maps, which much
detracts from its completeness and availability.
5. The Expedition of Don Diego Dionisio de Penalosa — from
Santa Fe to the river Mischipi and Quivera in 1662.
Edited by John G . Shea and first published by him,
New York, 1882.
6. Voyages of Peter Esprit Radisson, 1652 to 168Jf. First
published by the Prince Society, Boston, 1885.
7. The Narrative and Critical History of America. Edited by
Justin Winsor, Librarian of Harvard University. 8
volumes, Boston, 1884-1889. This work, like the Jes-
uit Relations, is a cyclopedic one and a true thesaurus.
THE FRENCH ACCOUNTS CONTINUED. 95
On examining the above dates of imprint it "will be seen
that a man writing thirty-seven years ago on the histori-
cal geography of the Mississippi valley would have now,
if living, and jealous of his credit, to re-write his whole
work; in view of the new facts brought to light by the first
six of these publications. It is to be hoped that the efforts
now being made to unearth manuscripts and maps of the
time of Columbus, hitherto unknown or known and lost,
referring to the discovery of the New World may be suc-
cessful. And it is also much to be desired that such search-
ing should not stop there, but be continued with a view to
finding like valuable papers concerning the voyages and
expeditions of the Spaniards to and in North America in
the sixteenth century, and concerning their subsequent
doings at the forts and missionary stations which they
maintained there, particularly on the coasts of the Gulf
of Mexico and the Atlantic ocean.
SUB-DIVISION SIXTH.
EARLY TERRITORIAL CLAIMS; EXTENT OP CANADA
AND LOUISIANA; TRANSFER OP LOUISIANA BY
PRANCE TO SPAIN; BOUNDARY BETWEEN PRENCH
AND ENGLISH POSSESSIONS; WESTERN BOUND-
ARY OP THE UNITED STATES; TRANSPFR OF
LOUISIANA BY SPAIN TO PRANCE; CESSION BY
PRANCE TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA;
INDIAN OCCUPANCY, TRADITIONS AND WARS;
CAPTAIN CARVERS TRAVELS; THE JOURNEY OP
DAVID THOMPSON.
It is a somewhat difficult matter to properly formulate
the political geography of the Mississippi valley. Prior to
the nineteenth century, the interior of the country was so
little known that grants were made, and claims founded or
decided, on such definitions of territory or descriptions of
lines as now appear vague in the extreme.
Spain, by virtue of the discoveries of Columbus and
others, confirmed to her by papal grant, may be said to
have been the first European owner of the entire valley of
the Mississippi; but she never took formal possession of
this part of her dominions other than _that incidentally in-
volved in Soto's doings. The feeble objections which she
KAKLV TKlUilTOKlAI. ri.AlMS. 97
made, in the next two centuries after the discovery, to other
nations explorln*^ and settling Nortli America, were suc-
cessfully overcome by the force of acconii)lishod facts.
The name of Florida, now so limited in its application,
was tirst applied by the Si)aniards to the greater ])art of the
eastern half of North America, commencing at the Gulf of
Mexico and proceeding northward indefinitely. This ex-
l)ansiveness of geographical view, was paralleled later by
the definition of a new France of still greater extent, which
practically included all the continent.'
Judging also by the various grants to individuals, noble
or otherwise, and "companies. ' which gave away the
country in latitudinal strips extending from the Atlantic
westward, the English were not far behind the Spaniards
and French in this kind of effrontery — not dead even yet. it
would appear, if Africa be looked at. As English colonists
never settled on the Mississippi river in pursuance of such
grants, and never performed any acts of authority there,
such shadowy sovereignties may be disregarded here, in
spite of the fact that it was considered necessary, many
years later, for various states concerned to convey to the
United States their rights to territory which they nevt-r
owned nor ruled over.
Thus, in the most arbitrary manner, did the Mississippi
1. Pieur (le la Koche was apiiointcd .Tamiary 1:.'. 151)8, LU'iilcnatil-Cienoial of
•"Canada, llocliela^'a. NewfouiicllHiid, I.al)rad()r, the rivet- of tin- i;reat bay of
Norernbeiiue, and llie lands adjacent to the said ptovinces and rivers whicli art;
the whole length and depth of tlie eountry. provided they ari,' not inhabited l)y
the sul)jects of any other Christian I'rinee."
L'Esearbot, in his history of New France, written in 161T. says in reference to this;
'"Thus, onr Canada has for its linilts on the west side the lands as far as the sea
called the Pacific, on this side of the Tropic of Cancer; on the sontli the islands
of the Atlantic sea in the direction of Cuba and the Spanish island; on tlieeast
the northern sea which bathes New France; and on the north the land, said to be
unl<nown, towards tlie icy sea as far as the arctic pole."
-7
96 Tin; mississiimm uivkk and its soi'iiCK.
river, 11ioii«,''li y«'t inilciiown. Ix'corTH' tin- i)ro|)«?rty siu^cos-
sivoly of ilic II)(M-i;iii, (raulis}i and Aiiprlo Suxon rJWtGH —
of lhro(! p«oplos who. in laU'r timos. by <liplf)ina<'y and
force of arms. stru«i'«?U!d lov an actual octcupancy. Prac-
tically however the ujiper Missi.ssi])pi valley may bo con-
siclerod as havinj^ been in th»! tirsl place Canadian soil ;
frr il was Fren(dimen from Canada who first visited it
; lid traded with its vaiious native iidiabitants. The fui--
Ihcr prosecution of his discoveries by La SalU; in HWl'
extended (!ana(hi as a Fren(;h possession to the (rulf of
Mexico, thouf,'h h(! did not u.se the name of Canada, nor
yet that of New Franco. He preferred to call the entire
country watered y)y the Mississippi river and its tribu
taries. from its utmost sources to its mouth, by the new
nam(» lie had already invented for the j)ur])ose -Louisiana.
Tlie names of Canada and New France had been inditl'er-
ently used to express about the same extent of territory.
but the new name of Louisiana now came to supercede
them in beini? applied to the conjectural rej^ions to the
W(!st. Althou<<h La Salle had applietl the latter expres-
sion to the entire valley of the Mi.ssi.ssippi, it was not
generally used in that sense after his time ; the upper
part of the region was called Canada and the low(!r Lou
isiana; but any actual dividing line between the two
provinces was not absolutely established, and their names
and boundaries were v(>ry variously indicated on pub-
lished maps.
In 1712, when a patimt was granted to M. Crozat by
the French government, the first authoritative definition
was made, by describing the territory in which he was
empowered k) trade ; though the right was reserved to
KAUI.V 'IKltmiOICIAL (Jl.AIMS. WO
incroaso, if thou^^'lit proper, thn oxU-iit of the ;r()vcriim»'rit
of Louisiuna. As n-j^ardod tlu^ Mississijtpi moro parti-
cularly, thf proviiKM! <'x1oiui(>(l frotn tln^ sea shorn on the
(iiiir of Mexico to tho Illinois (country) and included all
llic basin of llie Ohio to tlu' east and that of tins Mis-
souri to tlui \v«'st. In 1717, was add<'d hy the •govern-
ment- the country of the savaj^os called the Illinois. Speak-
inif «fnnorally, the (JaiKuhi of the last century included
the (ireat Lakes, and the country drained by thoir ti'ibu-
tai'ies ; the northcM'ti one-fourth of th(» ])re.sent Slate of
Illinois, i. e. so much as lies north of tho mouth of Kock
river ; all the I'c^^ions lyin<r north of the nortluM-n watei--
shed of tho Missouri rivor; and. finally, the valley of tho
ui)per Mis.souri itself, whei'o it was explored by the Ver-
endryos for some iinkown distanc;(^ above iitid l)elow ilio
country of tho Mandans.
Hai"d pressed by the English dui'in*^ the Seven N'ears'
War. Franco found Louisiana too heavy a burden to carry
alone any lonf^or. In October. 17r)I, she; solicited aid in money
and suj)plies frotn Spain, but the iattei' p(jwer did noth-
;n<^ mori! at th*; time than to tak«! the matter into con-
sideration The next important stei) was the Preliminary
Treaty of Peace. si«^ned by P-inj^land. France, and Spain,
at Fontainebleau, on November ;>. 17()L*. In tho sixth
article of this treaty it was ■'a^'i-ei>d tliat for the future
the limits between the jxjssessions of his Most Christian
Majesty and those of his Bi-itannic xMajesly in that part
of the world, shall be irrevocably fixed Vjy a line drawn
along the middle of the river Mississippi, from its source
to the river Iberville, and from thenc(! by a line in the
middle of that stream and of the lakes Maurepas and
UX) TIIK MISSISSIIMM UIVKK AM) ITS SOl'ICCK.
I*()nlchar1niin to the sua." Tho nineteenth article read
'•His Catholic Majesty cedes and "guarantees, in absolute
ownership to his Hi-itannic Majesty, all that Spain i)ossesses
on the continent of North America, to the east or southeast
of the Mississippi."
On this very day. November 3. 17():2, the Premth and Span-
ish plenipotentiaries signed another act. by which tlie
PrencVi king ••ceded to his Cousin of Spain and his succes-
sors, forever. •* * * all the country known by the name
of Louisiana, includintr New Orleans and the island on which
that city in situated. ■ The Spanish k\n^ accepted the <;ift
on the i;5tli of the same month, but both donation and a<'cept-
ance were kept secret by the two powers.
On Iho 10th of February, ITGii, the definitive treaty of
peace was sij^ued. on the part of the kings of Spain and
France on the one side, and the king of Great Britain on the
other, Portugal consenting. The seventh article of this
treaty repeats literally the wording used in the preliminary
treaty, as to limits between the poj^sessions of the Frt'iich
and Engli;;h in North America.
Having now obtained possession of eastern Louisiana and
Canada, the king of Great Britain at once proceeded to
divide his new acriuisitions into provinces. Among them
were East and West Florida, bounded on the north by the
31st parallel of latitude. Understanding that there were yet
settlements \o the northward of this line, on the east side of
the Mississippi river, he substituted for it, in the next year,
another line in order to include them; which line commenced
at the mouth of the Yazoo river and ran thence due east.
As regards the country on the west side of the river, and
that between it and the Iberville, it was not until April 21,
EAULY TKKrtrTOI{l.\r. cr.AIMS. 101
17»U. that the king of FraiuM' oHicially notiticd his govt»nior
at New Oi'loans of thocossiou of Louisiana to Spain, mado
nearly two y«>ars before. Th«' Spaniards wcif also dihitory
and did not actually arrivt' at that city to take possession of
their new dominion before the early part of ITtUi. »
The United States of Norlli America next came on the scone,
as successors of Old P^njjrland in the valley of the Mississippi,
The Provisional Articles of Peace between the two nations
were signed at Paris on November JIC, 17Hi'. \iy the second
article, the western part of tlu; boundaries of the territory of
the new republic was defined as a line which should run from
the most northwestern point of the Lake of tht? Woods "on a
due west course to the river Mississippi;' thence by a line to
be drnwn along the middle of the said river Mississippi until
it shall intersect the northernmost part of the thirty-first de-
gree of north latitude. South by a line to be drawn due east
from the line last mentioned in the latitude of thirty-one de-
grees north of the Equator, to the middle of the river Apa-
lachicola or Catahouche. " etc. There was also a .separate
Kieueral CoUot (1796), in his VDiinue ilatis V Aineririur. writes ;is fdllows:
"As Enjjliind at llit,' tiino of tlio peact' of 17r>.i ('(nild nut claidi the possession of
Louisiana for iH-rself, she was well satisfied to see ilsowneisliip pas> into the liands
of Spain. Siie felt assured tliat the Spaiiisli government was le^.Nfit tlian I lie rrench
one to develope the resources of this vast eountry. which she herself was anxious
to turn to advantage, and that the former wcuild he least in her w ay in that respect,
iind in the desiiru shedoubtless entertained toultimately nMider herself mistressof
the entire territory."
2 In Robert Rogers' account of North America. 17(i.">. is found t lie statement that
this river [Mississippi] "takes its rise at the southerly piirt of the Central Moun-
tains, upwards of 3.(KK) miles, as the river runs, from its mouth at the Gulf of
Mexico. Its hijjhesi, .source is a lake of considerable bl^rness, opp()>ite to. or north-
west of which Is a notch or opening: in the mimntain from wliieh a lar^e stream
Hows to the lake, carryiuj; with It a red. sulphurous sulJstanct': on which account
this is called tlie Red lake. The course of the Mississippi frotn the Red lake is
nearly .southwest for upwards of two hundred miles, where it is joined by a smaller
stream from tiie westward, and its course is turned nearly southeast for more
than three hundred miles, when it Is joined by the Muddy river, and later that of
anutker. not so larjje, Howlng to it from the northeast."
102 THK MISSISSIIMM lUVKU AND ITS SOUKC'K.
article iittadu'd to tliis treaty, which proN kh'd 'that in case
(Jreut Hiitiiiii, at the conclusion of th«' present war. shiiU
I'ecover or l)c juit in possession of West Floritla, the line of
north lx)untiary between the said i»rovince and tlie United
States, shall be a line drawn from the inoutli of the river
Yassoiis. where it unites with tlu; Mississippi, due east, to
the river Apalachicola. "
The thiril article of the I'reliininary Articles '»<* Peace be-
tween (Jreat liritain and Spain, dated January -0, 17K}, says
that "His Hritannic Majesty shall cede Eastern Florida to
his Catholic Majesty, and his said Ci'tholic Majesty shall
retain Western Florida."
The Definitive Tn^aties ol Peace between (ireat Britain
and the United States, and between G)oat Britain and
Spain, were both si«,'ned on September :J. iT^ti, the first at
Paris, the second at Versailles. In the former treaty the
boundaries of tlie United states are repeated as they api)ear
in the Provisional Articles already cited. In like manner
no change was made in the wording of the Spanish treaty,
in which the Floridas were ceded to Spain without any
detinitit)n of limits whatever. Seeing that the northern
boundary of these jirovinces had years before then been
moved northward from latitude iil" to the Yazoo river, as
previously stated. Spain naturally had a right to feel ag-
grieved; for such a double gift of the same land as was
involved in the.se two treaties, whether meant or not, was
sowing dragons' teeth for a future crop of armed men.
From this time on the political affairs of the lower Missis-
sippi country became exceedingly complicated. The Span
iards, still the rightful owners of the left bank of the
Mississippi — so far as governmental treaties can confer
EAULY TKKUITOUIAL (LA I MS. H>:{
rij?ht — woro roluctant to abandon territory of which tln\v
were in actual possession. They thoujfht that tliere nii;rht
be a new Dcchiratioii of Itulcpendence west of the Alle-
^hanies, and that the K«>ntuckians miirht he induced to
beconm the friends of Spain as a repubUc separate from
that of tlie United States — or i)ossibly even joju themselves
to her outright; but all intrigues between apprehensive
Spaniards and ambitious Americans looking' towards such
ends came to nothing.
On U(.'tober 1'7, 17U5. Spain and the United States entei-cd
into a "Treaty of Friendship. Limits and Navigation." in
which it was agreed that the boundary between the
Ploridas and the possessions of the liepublic should be at
the northermost part of the thirty-first degree of latitude,
then due east etc.; and that any troops, garrison or settle-
ments, on either side of said line should be withdrawn
within six months, or sooner if possible, after tlie ratifica-
tion of the said treaty. The treat}', after the various neces-
sary ratifications, wa.-. proclaimed on August 1', 179t). Tlie
Spanish authorities however sliowed no alacrity in comjjly-
ing with this provision, and it was not until they wen»
threatened by the forces of the United States with a set
attack, in 17i)7. that theii' troops evacuated th»^ posts held
by them; and Natchez, with all the eastern part of the
valley north of the thirty-first parallel, fell into the hands
of the Americans, without a blow having been struck.
It is now clearly seen that the affairs of the Old World
had much to do with transfers of colonial possessions
between European powers, and that American countries
were apparently but distant pawns on the • ' political chess
board," which could be sacrificed to subserve important
104 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
moves. Tlio Corsican soldier Bonaparte, First Consul of
the French Republic, began to unsettle the boundaries and
names of Italian and other European states, and so it hap-
pened that the name of far-otf Louisiana was brought into
conjunction with the dignified appellations of Tuscany and
Parma. Secretly as Spain had received from France in
1762 the immense but ind'3tinite territory of Louisiana did
she give it back again to the donor. The <.reaty of San
Ildefonso was signed on October 1, IHOO. and by its third
article it retroceded to France, six months after certain
stipulations concerning the "kingdom of Etruria" should
have been complied with, the colony or province of Lou-
isiana, "with the same extent that it now has in the hands
of Spain, and that it had when France possessed it." The
fact of this second transf ■ of the Mississippi valley leaked
out very gradually, but within two years it had become, to
statesmen, a good instance of an open secret.
Time flowed on now for a year or two without any striking
event occurring in connection with the Mississippi valley.
In Europe there was a lull in the storm of war ; for the
Treaty of Amiens was signed March 27. 1802. and France
and England were at peace for a short time again. On
July 22, 1802, the First Consul stipulated to Spain that France
would never sell nor alienate Louisiana — a jjolitical promise
which he had later to break, facts being more stubborn
things than even arbitrary First Consuls. Toward the end
of this year, the Spanish authorities at New Orleans
imprudently took away from the Americans the right of
deposit at that city — i. e. the right of landing and storing
merchandise there — without designating any other point
where this might be done. Such bad faith incensed the
KAKLY TKKRITOUIAL CLAIMS. 105
people of the United States, and a cry arose that they
should forcibly take possession of New Orleans and of the
outli^ts to the sea ; in fact a cry for war. There were also
spirited debates in both horses of Congress as to what
should be done, but their action fell short of recommend injj;'
immediate resort to hostilities.
The executive branch of the government of course fully
sympathized with the outraged feelings of the western
people, but the condition of affairs was peculiar. Spain yet
garrisoned New Orleans, and was still both actual possessor
and titular owner of what remained of the province of Lou
isiana, in spite of the fact that she had bargained all of it
away to France, except wescern Florida. It was not until
the 26th of March. Irt0;j, two years and a half after the
transfer, that the colonial prefect Laussat arrived from
Prance ; but no troops accompanied him or were sent after
him, and no transfer of the government of the province
could yet be Laade to him.
In February and March, the President of the United States
caused representations to be made to the French government
concerning the matter, specifically, as to a project for the
annexation of the Floridas and the island of New Orleans.
The American plenipotentiaries labored hard with the
French ministers, go-betweens of the First Consul, but little
progress was made till Bonaparte himself astonished the
former by sending word that he would sell the whole of the
province for a certain consideration. He had known his
own mind all the time. Hostilities with England were im-
minent, and in view of that fact, he considered, as he told his
ministers, that the colony was entirely lost, and therefore
that it would be more useful to France in the hands of the
106 THK MISSISSIPIM HIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
Americans than if he attempted to keep it, for the En<i:lish
would at once seize it. as he naturall}^ supposed, on the
renewal of tlie war. Having- to fij^lit with a rich nation
liowever he wished to obtain as much money from the jiur-
chasers as possible. The treaty of cession was signed on
April .-50. 1H03. and on the 18th of May England declared war
against France; so there had really been no time to lose.
The former government had, however, expressed to the
American embassador their complete willingness to see the
United States obtain possession of Louisiana.
On the 18th of May also, as it happened, the Spanish com-
missioners, appointed to deliver the province to France, is-
sued a proclamation at New Orleans. It was stated that the
limits on both sides of the river St. Louis or Mississippi should
continue as they remained by the fifth article of the Definitive
Treaty of Peace of December 10. 1763. so that the settlements
from Bayou Manchac to the line separating the dominions of
Spain and those of the United States should remain a part of
the monarchy of Spain, and be annexed to the province of
"^^'est Florida. The Spanish government did not relish this
alienation of Louisiana by France, and protested against it.
They comi)lained that the stipulations of the treaty of
San Ildefonso had not been complied with; but all to no
effect, and there the matter rested. Spain had seen her best
days, and was now more of a lamb than the wolf she had
been for centuries. On June 1, the prefect referred to was
appointed commissioner on the part of France to receivt
possession of Louisiana from the Spanish commissioners and
deliver it to those of the United States. By the end of
October the ' ' Louisiana Purchase" w^as consummated by the
action of the U. S. Senate. On November 80. the ceremonv
KAliLV TERRITORIAL CLAIMS. 10?
of the formal transfer of the province from Spain to FVance
took place at New Orleans, and on December ilO, that from
France to the United States.
All that remained now of the Mississippi river' which any
foreign power could claim to possess, was 200 miles of its
left bank between the 31st parallel and the mouth of the
Iberville. This, as a part of its province of West Florida,
Spain still clung to tenaciously, in spite of the evident feel-
ings of the Americans concerning the "manifest destiny" of
their republic.
By virtue of a proclamation dated October 27, 1810, the
President directed that possession should be taken of the
territory south of the Mississippi territory, and eastward of
the river Mississippi, and extending to the river Perdido.
The acts of Congress passed in 1811 and 1813, authorizing
the seizure of the Floridas in certain contingencies, and the
ruthless invasion of eastern Florida in 1816 by General
Jackson and his Tennesseans, followed by the cajiture of
fortified places there held by the Crown of Spain, with
which at the time the United States were at peace, were the
beginning of the end. By the treaty signed February 22,
1819, the Spanish government ceded to that of the United
States about all that was left to it of the ancient province of
Florida; the formal surrender of the land itself was made at.
Pensacola on the 21st of July, 1821. Now it was that actual
control of the Mississippi river, from its source to its mouth.
1 That the Kovcriiment of tl;e United St.ates w;i.s curious .bout the bouiuliiry
question is shown by tlie instructions of Thomas .letferson to Capt. Lewis, the lioad
of tlie Missouri Kivi-r Expedition of 180:^, for lie recjuested inforin'ation concerning
the country contiguous to that traversed. Mr. .letferson said: ''If you can learn
anything certain of the most nortliern source of tlie Mississippi, and of its position
relative to the Lal<e of the Woods, it will be interesting to us."
108 THK MIi^iSISSIIMM KIVEU AND ITS SOUUCE.
for the first time fell into the hands of a government fully
competent to maintain itself a<i:ainst all comers. '
T]iou<rh forty years later the authority of the United
States on the waters below the Ohio was set at defiance
through a formidable civil war — when the river "rained
bullets." as prophesied by an American statesman years 1 >•-
fore — yet it was but for a short time. It is to be hoped tliat
future generations may not behold the disintegration or
overthrow of the republic, nor the transfer of the historic
valley of the great river to another and less worthy su-
premacy.
* *
Abstract, aboriginal and pre-historic- <]uestions would,
however interesting, be out of place in an examination of
1 Extfiu t from llu' ^pfccli <if Ituiiifl Wchstcr in t he f. S. Senate. Marcli 7. IWiO. on
t)iL' Slavery Coniproniise.
'•Sir, u )tKKly can 1(K)1< over the face of tliis country at the presetit nioinent— no-
body ean see where its population is most dense and jirowin^r. without being reatly
tt) admit, and eompelled to admit, tliat ere long America will be in the valley of the
Mississippi."
2 There is no doubt that the immediatt- valley of the Mississippi river supported,
in pre-hlst4)rie times, u far more numerous population tlian was found there by
tlie first explorers of o\ir modern epoeh. Who these peojjle were, it is impossible
to state.
Wlietlier a number of warrinj; tribes. i'a<-li independent of their neijciil>or, or
nations livinj; under one or more semi-l>arl)arniis '<ut well orL'anized governments
similar totiiose of Mexico or Peru, or otherwise, is problematic hardly proper to
consider as a f;<-'<'^''iil>''i«!il question.
The evidences of the e.xisti-nce of the human race in pre-historic times is every-
wlu're met by those v> lio search for tlieru. Tlie most strikinK feature to be found
is the mounds of earth, artificially shaped, which are not easily overlooked, and
wliicli exist all the way from Louisiana to Minnesota, thoufrli ditfering much in
form, si/e and style in dilTerent localities. Ordinary tumuli are found all alonjr
the valley and for tliat reason have not liad much systematic attention paid to
them by inquirers in searcli of In'ormation concerning the same. From the lower
Red river to the lllint)is. is found a class of mounds flattened on top with rectan-
gular bases, often witli upper and lower summits, and with broad approaches whicli
are styled platform or temple mounds; but above those well known ones on the
Illinois bottoms at Cahokia, earth strnctures of this class are not often niet-
Beyond tliem. bejrinning somewhere above tlie Rock river, commence the still
more mysterious remains known as imitative or i-ffigy mounds, k)w heaps of earth
constructed, umluiilitedly. to represent in their ground plan, animated beings of
EAULY Ti:illiITORIAL CLAIMS. 10i>
the present character. The time is past when the aborigines
are needed, or their aid required for reliable geographic
facts; indeed, as a rule. Indian maps have always been but
distortions. When first known in history, the banks of the
Mississippi were peopled nearly its entire length. Those
people had stamped upon their countenances the color of
their origin, and as they probably floated across the Pacific
Ocean and reached the coast of the New World, that color
indicating their mental capacity precluded the ])ossibility
of their grasping opportunities, not yet fully availed of by
the Anglo-Saxon race.
Those people, by instinct and nature, at long continued
warfare, adopted habits in the northwest, and those habits
made the limber line a division line between the contending
various kinds and oven weapons of war. Tlu-sc I'tliiry mounds have l)een jjroved
l)y Prof. T. H. Ltnvis— wlio lias of late years made a special study of the sul),ieet —
t4) extend up the Mississippi nearly, if not <iuite to tlie St. Croix and l)eyond that
point; butbai'kin tlie interior at considerable distances, lie lias found isolated
specimens widely separated from each other, as far to the northward as the valley
of the Crow Win^ river. Stone graves iind fort.s are found in tlie latitude of
southern Illinois, not very far from tlie Mississip])!. Or'dinary villa.ue sites and
shell heaps are at places thickly strewn alonir the lianks of the river, and at very
many points where the rock formations arc exposed tin' early inhabitants left
their syniliolical iiiarkinirs engraved or painti'd on clills or in ( a\ cs. All these
thinjis denote many i)eo|)le in the valley of tlu' Mississippi for a moderate time, or
a much smaller nuniber living there for a much longer tiim:— proliably an occu-
pancy in all of more than scores of eeimiries— but this nuest Ion must be left for a
decision, if ever decided, to the facts to be derived from gratlual and painstaking
investigation and research One thing is certain, that as regards the upper Mis-
sissippi, at h'.ist, i:i the time of the earliest explorers refcrreil to, tumuli, etflgies,
shell heaps and village sites had all long tjeeii forgotten and beome unknown to
the Indians of the day. who only knew of some of the grotesque figures d.'awn on
the rocks by reason of the ini|)rol)abilliy of overlooking them and who knew
nothing of their origin, l)ut were inclined to think them of super-natural import,
and accustomed to make otTeiings to them in passing.
Between ihe mouth of the Rum river of Minnesota and the neighborhood of
the Arkansas river, the French traders or missionaries found no Indian tribes or
nations living permanently on the banks of the Mississippi. At that time, the
river had ceased to be a safe dwelling place for pacific and sedentary natives, and
those Indians who did go upon the waters of that portion of the river, went in the
full force of thi'ir tribe to hunt as they travelled, or in smaller bands as war
parties. In other words, the Mississippi river was then practically a solitude.
110 THK MISSISSIIMM KMVKU AND ITS SOURCE.
tribes. The timber lino in the process of natural t?rowths.
reaches from the southeast to the northwest, dividinjr the
j^reat plains from the great forests. Itasca lake is on the
southern border of that «i!:reat forest; conseciuontly. the local-
ity ultimately became Ojibway territory, and the Dakotas
w«;re their warring neighbors of the extensive prairies im
mediately to the southwest, known in later years as "the
plains." From these Indians, the tirst direct information
was gained concerning the .source of the river, crude, un-
certain, but now interesting.
The Spanish and French maps bear earmarks of informa-
tion communicated by Indians, coupled with the accuracy
and improvement of civilized observation, until the days of
M. Nicollet, in 1830. when the first exhaustive chart of the
upper waters of the Mississippi was constructed and he,
too, depended largely upon semi-civilized' knowledge.
Accurate and detailed governmental surveys in the field
from 1848 to 187.', by six mile square townships immediate-
ly superceded Nicollet's chart, to and including Itasca and
Elk lakes. Yet in 1881, ther»' was a crude ma]^ of the
Itasca Basin constructed by an Ojibway Indian, from mem-
ory, and in ignorance of the existence of governmental
stakes, witness trees and land marks, then standing in plain
sight on the shores of Itasca and Elk lakes. This Indian
map. a geographical curiosity, was adopted by unscrupulous
hands and foisted ujion the geographical world as indicating
oiir/lna/ discovery at the source of the Mississippi.
As the aboriginal occupancy of the locality was attended
only by obscurity, ignorance and barbarity, there is no
1. Frt'iu'h lialf-bloods. and often, by interpreCation. those wlm were stiU fiirtlier
removed from the iulliienoes of eivilizod information.
KAUr,Y TKRRITOKIAL CLAIMS. - 111
record from wliich to describe the first api)earance of unciv
ilized humanity at the headwaters of the river. A people
not competent to record the facts of history and render
an instructive record of the chain of discoveries, have
not been and ought not to be. accorded the honors of dis-
covery. That Indian tribes were the only pre-historic
occupants of this territory is not entirely certain.
The facts of record indicate the territory to be probably
neutral ground (possibly occupied by the Sioux) followed
by the encroachments of the Ojibways- the former now^ dis-
tinctively a prairie people and the latter as distinctly a
people of the woods. The con(iuests botween these tribes-
of unknown duration, followed by a series of Indian treaties
with the United States, constitutes the territory at the
source of the Mississippi a i)art of the public domain.
As to actual Indian occupancy and possession, the record
which comes down to us is by no .leans clear, and any state-
ment concerning the same must be. of necessity, based, to a
considerable extent, upon traditionary information from
tribal sources. A brief reference to this occupancy is given
from the most reliable data obtainable.
The ultimate headwaters of the Mississippi were remote
from all the places visited by the early French traders and
missionaries in the seventeenth century, and as the source
was unknown to them, so also was the fact whether or not
thei'e were any permanent Indian settlements or villages in
this immediate vicinity'.
The m ips and books of the times of the earliest discover-
ies, do not justify the supposition that the Itasca Basin
was within the territory of the Sioux, whilst, as for the
Ojibvray Indians, they were then no nearer the Mississippi
112 THE MISSISSH'Pl UIVKU AM) ITS SOUIiCK.
river than the Falls of St. Mary at the outlet of Lake
Superior. As between the Sioux and the Ojibvvay tribes
and the tribes of savages who at that time occupied the ter-
ritory to the northward, the source of the Mississippi,
remote and isolated, was probably intermediate territory
belon^inj? to no particular tribe of savages and claimed by
none.
When the westward migration of the Ojibway tribes
(occurred, is not very clear, but migrate they did in that
direction, first tarrying for a long lime at La Pointe until
they finally came to Fond du Lac in closer contact with
the Sioux, whom they had fought and were again to tight.
This Indian war, as is well known, was maintained for gen-
erations, until the time when the whites on account of the
Sioux massacre and insurrection of 1862, drove the Sioux,
then living no farther east than the upper Minnesota river,
out of the reach of their former enemies into the valley of
the Missouri river. The time when the savage hostilities
between the Ojibway and the Sioux began, is not certainly
known. Carver was told tliat it had already lasted forty
years, at the time of his visit, which would make its com-
mencement about 172t).
Warren, in his history of the Ojibway s, derived from tra-
ditional sources, writing in 1852, estimates the beginning of
the war upon the Sioux at Mille Lacs, to have been five
generations' previous to that time. He narrates how the
Ojibway s first drove the Sioux, by hard fighting, from
their villages on Rum river and Mille Lacs lake and its vicin-
ity; from the head of the St. Croix river; from Sandy Lake
village; from the neighborhood of Pokegama falls; from
Lake Winnibigoshish, and how they would have driven
KAKI.V I'KUUrroUlAI. CLAIM!",
li:{
them Iroiii Leuch lakr hud not tlic Sioux, by nrcvious w-
tireraont. savod thorn tlio troubh'.
There is nothing,' i!i the rejwrts of the traders and officers
connected with the Freni'h iur coni])anies trading' in this
region, to denote any general war and expulsion of the
Sioux from the northern country, but yet it might have
haj)])ened to some extent.
The exploration regarding the upper Mississip]>i, made
under English auspices may be discussed in a few words.
Ttec? Zu/i^e> or
Ml ^a LSuca icfu to
in.
I'AUT OK A MA" OK CAXAUA. .IKKFKKVV, 1762.
There is, unfortunately, a documentary gap between the
time of the Frenc/i traders in Minnesota and that of Capt.
Jonathan Carver, v/hich may never be filled and which de-
prives us of information that could probably clear up the
mystery of the abandonment by the Sioux of the country
north of Watab river in the vicinity of Sauk Rapids — the
point on the Mississippi river where the boundary line between
the two nations was made to cross it, by formal treaty.
-8
114 INK MISSISSIIM'I KIVKK AM) ITS SOL'Ul'K.
In Cai)t. Carver's book, speaking? of Ued lake, the author
says: "The parts adjacent are very little known or fre-
((uented, even by the savages themselves."
On the map which is reproduced may be seen the import-
ant remarks which tend to show that the Itasca Basin, was
in his time at least, neutral ground if not debatable terri-
tory. The first remark which ai)pears ui)on the map im-
mediately to the south and southeast of Red lake and
"White Bear lake" — whichever lake that maybe, reads as
follows:
"This is the road of war between the Nadowessie and As-
siniboils.
N. B. All country not })ossessed by any one nation
where war parties are often passing, is called by them the
Road of War."
The next appt^ars a little farther to the south and reads
thus:
"The head branches of the Mississippi are little known.
Indians .seldom travel this way except war parties."
As Carver did not ascend the Mississippi any farther than
the jiresent St. Francis river, he was not able to settle by
personal observation the question whether the Sioux were
driven from their former habitations by force of arms, or
voluntarily relinquished them to be nearer the trading posts
to the south of them on the Mississippi, and possibly on the
Minnesota also; nor does he attempt to settle this question.
He states that three bands of the tribe lived between the St.
Croix and the Minnesota, on both sides of the Mississippi,
and that eight other bands lived in a country lying more to
the westward — the Sioux of the plains.
DKAWN KUOM A i»LAX Ol ( APTAI.V CAUVKIts TUAVKLS IN THK
INTKKIOi: I'AlfTS OF NORTH AMEKICA IX ITWJ AND 1767.
no
TllK MISSISSU'IM lilVKK AND ITS SDIHCK.
In Juno. ITiM'K (.'apt. Cairvor, as u Hritish subject, sot out
from Hoston to explore the t-ouiitry tributiiry to tho uppor
portion of Ww Mississippi, in pursuance of a doclarod desire
to enlighten his countrymon conctvrninj; the country and its
inhabitants. l)orderinj; upon tlio waters of the Upper Missis-
sippi.
It would apjx'ur that the
policy adopted b y t h e
French concerning; a «reo-
•rraphical knowled^n of the
territory of the Upper Mis
sissippi. obscured its im-
portance from the eyes of
the world, from evident sel-
fish motives, that the reve-
nues from trade, the occu-
pancy of the country, its
physical features and pro-
ductive possibilities, might
be known and availed of
only by themselves
CAPT. .JONATHAN CAUVER. "^ "^
A careful perusal and consideration of Capt. Carver's
visit to the savage tribes occui)ying the territory adjacent
to the present site of the City of St. Paul, Minnesota,
demoLstratos that there was but little or no information
touching the source of the river, which he describes as
being within thirty miles of the source of the St. Lawrence
and Bourbon rivers, the 'Origan," or river of the West,
having its source rather farther to the west.
Capt. Carver's sojourn among the Sioux Indians, his
acquirement of a knowledge of their language and his
KAULV TKKUITUUIAL CLAIMS. U7
• •xlendod obsoi-vations and the ^'»M);,'ni|)lii(al iiifonimtion hi»
iruiiuid of tln^ t»'rrit(>ry t<» which ho was u visitor, n-sultt'd in
his constnictiii<; a map of tho locality of much intonjst at
the tiim; it was |)\d)lislifd. followiiij,' liis voyajjf to thn
northwest.
Carver C(»unty. Minnesota, formed of territory at or near
where he spent the winter of 17t)0. with the Sioux Indians,
permanently inscribed liis name upon the ^'<'()<fraphy of
Minn«!sota.
David Tliompson, an En«;lish Astronomer, entered the
service of the Northwest Company in 17117. [n the per-
formance of the duties recpiired of him. h«3 passed from the
north shore of Lake Superior t^o Manit()l)a and the
Mandan villages on the Missouri and prepared to 'connect '
the waters of the Red liver and the Mississipi)i. He left
the Mouse river February i'.'. I7'.t8 with a do*? train. He
successively reached and pas.sed the moutli of the A.ssin-
iboine and Pembina rivers, pas.sed up the Ked river
of the North to Red Lake river, and on the 17th
of April arrived at Red lake. Passing,' to the .south-
ward, he reached Turtle lake, Ai)ril :27th, from which flows
"Turtle Brook." He was accredited, to some extent, as the
discoverer of the source of the Mississippi at Turtle lake.
He descended Turtle river to Cass lake, and thence down
the Mississii)pi through ••Winnipegoos" lake to the north of
•Sand Lake river" and thence across the divide to Lake
Superior. Notes of his travels have been preserved and to
some extent published, making his voyage the first authentic
account of an examination of that part of the Mississippi
river between Cass lake and Sandy lake. His voyage from
the Mississip[)i riv^er U) Lake Superior at .so early a date,
lib THK MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
durintf cold and inclement woather, across what is now
North Dakota and Minnesota, and a part of Manitoba, was
reirarded as a remarkable and hazardous undertaking.
SriM)IVlS[(>\ SKVEXTIT.
THE FIRST KNOWN OP WHITE MEN AT ELK LAKE:
THE NAME DEFINED ; WILLIAM MORRISON; THE
ONLY RECORD OF HIS \^OYAGE TO ITASCA LAKE
IN 180:] ; LOST NOTE-BOOKS.
In the detailed and intricate examination into the Spanish.
French. English and Indian occupancy of the territory now
comprised within the limits of Minnesota, more particularly
that portion at the headwaters and source of the Mississippi,
no reliable statement can be found, written or printed, show-
ing or in anywise indicating that any person but the native
savage had, previous to 1803, visited that portion of it now
known as the Itasca Basin, the Omoskos of the Chippew^a,
the La Biche of the French, the Elk of the English.
The topographical formation of the locality in its phy-
sical features,— the shape of an elk's head with the horns
representing the east and west arms,— no doubt gave it the
name "Elk.'" It may be a fact, recently demonstrated by
the discovery in the bed of one the creeks there, of a large
pair of elk antlers, that the locality was formerly the breed-
ing place of that animal, and as a hunting ground, was
known as Elk lake. (Omoskos Sogiagon). The French, bv
120 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKH AND ITS SOURCK.
translation, followed the same name and even after the
change in the name V)y ."ichoolcraft and Boutwell. it still
attaches, by authority of action on the part of the United
States officials, and by enactment of the Legislature of Min-
nesota, to on*! of the lakes of the locality.
An authentic writing, concerning the first discovery of the
Source in 180;}, is that of William Morrison. The original
draft of his letter is extant, and for the first time appears in
print as an important document in the question of discovery
noH' under cc-^isideration. ' of much interest in a deliberate
determination to state (questions of fact, devoid of all pro-
blemiuic embellishments.
Of vVilliam Morrison's life and times, and the causes of
his residence in the then northwestern wilderness, a most
thorough inquiry has been made. The result of the inquiry
necessarily brought to the attention all the principal inci-
c.ents of his life, — an eventful one among the traders and
t.ribes of the Northwest.
It was known that Mr. Morrison recorded a daily account
of his movements, and to Mrs. Georgiana Demaray. his
^accomplished daughter, was assigned the labor of searching
for these records in Canada. — his last place of residence —
but it is now known that they were lost - Mrs. Demaray
during her father's lifetime received ffom his lips a detailed
account of his. visit to Elk lake, a description of his written
accounts noted down at the time, which were lost, except
those from 1H24 to the close of his northwestern career, and
1. The Wm. Morrison letter, published in the coUt'otioii of the Muiiiescnii His-
torical Society in vol. 1 p. 417 is a composite production.
2. Mr. Morrison lost his record books, by an accidental capsiziti}; oi l:'s canoe.
and like the records of some of his French predecessors, detinite inforniati'in
found a watery grave. To replace, from memory, the notes of twenty years, was
an impossibility.
THK I'lUST KNOWN OF WHITK MKN.
11' I
a detailed verbal statement of his residence of a quarter of
a century in the nei<rhborhood of the headwaters of the
Mississippi. It is liighly probable that Mr. Morrison was
the first known of white men who visited in 1803, 1804, 1811
and 1HV2, the Basin surrounding" the source of the Missis-
sippi. In those days of iso-
lation and a consequent
carelessness, it is fair to
presume that Mr. Morrison
had no available opjDortuni-
ty to make known his visits
ther(\ unless in casual re-
ports to his employers, and
then only in matter-of fact
communications, soon to be
laid away and almost as
soon forgotten, and relega-
ted to an oblivion which
tests the patience of those
who now seek, with ill suc-
cess, after the lapse of near-
ly a century, to verify the mks. geouchan.v dk.mauay.
record of an important geographical discovery, with adverse
claimants in its history.
Mr. Morrison was elected a member of the Superior, Wis-
consin. Historical Society. September 27th, 1855, on the rec-
ord of his services and discoveries in the region of the head-
waters of the Mississippi. His residence in the Northwest,
for a quarter of a century, should be regarded as of sufficient
importance to append a brief outline of his birth, and the
incidents of his lifetime, that, while there is yet an oppor-
i'2'2 THK MISSISSIPIM EtIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
tunity, mankind may bo advised of him who consistently
claimed the honors of a first discovery of the source of the
Mississippi.
Mr Morrison's correspondence iipon this question during
the last years of his life, was had with his brother Allan
Morrison of Crow Win^. Minn., in 18r)0. more than fifty
years after the occurrence of the events described, yet the
remembrance of circumstances seems to have been fresh in
his mind, and undoubtedly from the fact that he had always
considered himself the first of white men at the source of
the river. Of this fact, Mrs. Demaray is a living witness,
and Mr. Alexander H. Morrison of St. Joseph, Michigan, a
nembei' of William Morrison's household, as a ward, remem-
bers the fact that, as early as 1837, and prior to that time,
the circumstances of this first discovery were freely dis-
cussed and related to himself and others by William Mor-
rison.
This is the best evidence at hand. It is certainly a matter
of regret, that the memorandum book, written from day to
day in 1803-4, by Mr. Morrison, during a long winter's resi-
dence near the source, cannot now be produced. That book
may have contained a sketch of the locrlity. It certainly
would describe the route of travel and the particular points
of location, facts now beyond the reach of those who seek to
perpetuate in definite form the first discovery of Itasca
lake, if such it was.
Among several letters ^ written by Mr. Morrison on this
Berthier, 16th .January, 1856.
1"My Dear Brother:— Your letter of the 26th ultimo has come to liand. Wf
were happy to hear from you and yours. George's letters likewise are received.
Fanny will answer him and liis motlier also.
You do not say a word about your trip to the States tliis winter and your in-
tended visit to see us. Will not tlie treaty take place this winterV
THK FIRST KNOWN OF Will IK MKN. 128
^ubjocl, one is given in full, and just as written and si<?nod
by himself, and addressed to his brother, Allan Morrison.
Mr. Morrison was born in Canada in \7h'.'>. and died there
August Till, 18»)»); the records indicate, liowever, that he be
came a citizen of the United States by naturalization.
It is but right and i)ro})er that. t(j commemorate the event
of his visit to the Basin, his name should be inscribed then,'
upon its list of geographical designations, a recognition
which has been awarded.
Concerning the presumable fact. that, antedating the first
known visit of white men at Lac La Biche, French voyageurs
may have reached the Basin, no reliable statement in writing
is known to exist, describing sucli visit. In the absence of
aiiy known record as to the movements of the French fur
traders and voyageurs who first established themselves in
I ivito what you S!iy conefniinj; tlio soiin^oof tlie Mls-*i.ssippi. You wisli to
know wlio \v;i.s tl'o first pL'rs,)ii who went to its s'liirco. For the iriforinatioii of tin-
n. Society. I wiUstule to yo;i all about wliateatiie to my PcnowledKe, by wliicli you
win perceive tliat II. K. ScliiKjlcraft is in error anil that he was not the tirst person
who made tiie discovery of the source i>{ the Mississippi.
I left the old Grand Portajje. July, 1S0:J, landed at Leech lake in Septeniher.
In Octoljer. T wi'rit and wintered on oin' nf tlie Crow Wins; streams near its source.
Our Indians were Pillajrers; in lsai-4. I wcni and wintered al Lac La Folle. I left
Leech lake, passed \>y Red Cclar ii/ic, up river Lac Travers to the lake of that
name, then up river La Hiclie or Elk river, to near Lac La liiche, wlicn we made a
portage to fall into Lac La Folle. Lac La Biche is near to Lac La Folle. Lac La
Biche is llie source of tlie Great Kiver Mississippi, wliicii I visited in ISOt, id if
the late Gen. I'ikedid not lay it down as such when he came to Leech lake it Is
because he did not happen to meet me. 1 was at an outpost that winter. The late
Gen Pike laid down on his book llcdValar luke as tlie head of the Mississippi
river. I did not trace any vesii.'c of wiiite twiii before me. In l-sll-li, I wintered
again at Lac La Folle near to the plains. We went dowi. .-iver La Folle some dis-
tance. I then overtook a jifnilenian with an outfit from Mi<-liilimackiuac, Mr.
Otepe, with whom 1 parted only at Fond du Lac. He took tlie .^uuth towards
Mch'a and I north to our headquarters, which had been changed to.
Fort William north of the Grand Portage. This I expect will explain tliat I visi-
ted in 1804, Elk lake, and again in 1811-13. With respect to the first Fond du Lac
traders, we all came from Mackinac. Some came by Lake Superior and others up
by Prairie du Clilen, up to Crow Wing and some went to Lac La Quo de FOutre—
Otter Tail lake— Messrs. Keaume, CV)iton. Casselais, Sayers. Letairz and several
others, some came by Lake .Superior and others up tb.e Mississippi by way of
Prairie du Chien. These persons were persons who preceded us. The French had
124 THK MISSISSHM'F UIVKR AND ITS SOUKCE.
lines ol' trade and traftic with tlic Indians, across Xhv noiMli-
ern portion of tho territory which now constitutes the State
of Minnesota, no tU'tinite lecord can be found concerning' a
mere probability that they may have reached Elk lake.
To the writers of the future must be left the task ot discov-
ering the record of the manner in which "Lac La Biche"'
first became known to the French and of any visits they may
have made to the locality, if any such record exists, which
now seems doubtful. Certain it is that Mr. Morrison's
letter is the only record of the.//rs7 visit to the source of the
Mississippi of which we have any knowledge.
trading posts on Lake Superior, but not in tlie Interior of F. D. L. tliat I could
ever discover. The late Mr. Suyers returned from Mi-kina and found
that his hands of Indians liad died l)y tiie smallpox -1780-T think.
Perhaps It is not amiss to mention that I went to the Indian country ent;aged
to Sir Alexander Mi'Kenzie & Co., who had joined stock wit h tlie X. Y Co.. form-
erly the Ttii'hatdson & Co.
I went into the country in opposition to the (dd N. W. Co. 1 found in Kond du
Lac, N. W. traders, Messrs. Sayers at Leech lake, Cotton at Kcmd du Lac and
l{ous(|uai at Sandy lake. My i)arty weie Michel and Antoiue Cheniers— brothers,
.lohn Mclleaii and Messrs. Houvin and Grijinon.
Weoppo.sed all the N. W. posts until l.Ml.i, wIi-ti a coalition took i)lace lietween
MeKen/ic and N. W. Co. The t rade was carrieil on jointly unl il after the late war
in ISK). J..T.Astorof New '^'ork. bouirht out the whole stocks of (he company
which was wiihin the U. S. territory. .I..I. A. ^Mve the name of his concern the A.
M. F. Co., who extended tlielr trade from the old (jriind Portafie to the Lake of the
Woods. Their route was up Xao St. I..ouis to the heifihtsof land .iiid then down the
liainy lake river to Lake of the Woods. Our f;randfather Waddin was killed by
Plerrepont and Lesiur In ITso and buried at Lac Le Rouge.
1 have not McKenzie's travels before me for the precise years of his voyage.
Franeheu Is pretty correct in liis stat-ements. Mr. Bond, your writer, must
have seen these gentlemen's t ravels.
1 will send you enclosed a lettei- from my old friend (ieo. Nelson, who wintered
at Folle Avoine in lS02-;i-4.
I have had the honor of having been named a meiiil)er of ilic II. S. of Superior,
who have a just right to claim any information they may icquire that I can -rive
llieiu. Your tine<-tionate brother.
WILLIAM MOKiasttN."
1. Itasca uake.
Si:iMHVlS|()\ KKiHTlI.
LIEUTENANT Z. M. 1»IKKS KXPEDITTON IN 180o-r): HE
REACHES THE MOUTH OF TWO RIVERS AND
ERECTS HLOCK HOUSES; BUFFALO, ELK AND
DEER HUNT; SLEDOE JOURNEY TO LEECH LAKE;
THE BRITISH FLAO; INDIAN WARFARE: KILLED
AT YORK.
The ces ion of
Louisiana, (alter-
nately Spanish and
French territory, ) in
A. D., 1803, to the
U ni ted States,
brought a very im-
p o r t a n t ten itory
under the dominion
and ownership of
this govern nient,
with a conservative
policy, but active
and energetic oper-
ations for its control
and welfare.
GEN. 55. M. PIKE.
]'2{S THK MISSISSIIM'T UIVKH AND ll S SOUKCK.
Lieut. Z. M. Piko was dispatched from St. Louis t<j explore
and examine the Mississippi and tributary country to the
headwaters. He sailed from St. Louis in keel boats up the
river, August 9th. 1805. at the head of a detachment of
twenty men. Witli varyin«r hardships, conferences with the
Indians and traders, subsist in^j in part on game and fish,
the detachment reached the Two Rivers of Morrison County,
Minnesota, on the west banlc of the Mississippi at the begin-
ning of winter, erecting a fort of block-liouses. The south
branch of Two Rivers was named Pine oreek, and the other
Second creek. Prom November 1st to December 10th.
Lieut. Piko and his detachment erected the fort, hunted the
buffalo, elk and doer, then in great numbers at tliC points
now known as Rico's in Benton CounLy. and Br.xkway in
Stearns County, Minnesota.
Lieut. Pike commenced a sledge journey with a detail
from the detachment from his block fort Decembcn- 10th.
cached provisions underground above Little Falls, passed
the De Corbeau (Crow Wing) river, and on Christmas day
W'ls en'^amped a short distance above the point where is now
situated the City of Brainerd, reached the mouth of Pine
river December 31st, and January ;jrd. 1800. discovered the
British flag tlofiting at an Indian encampment. On the niglit
of January 4th, the party lost their tents and portions of
their wearing apparel by accidental conflagration, barely
escaping from an explosion of the ammunition supply.
Bringing to their use a supply of snow shoes and toboggans,
the detachment arrived at Leech lake on February 1st, ex-
hausted and worn out by cold, hunger and exposure. Pike
says: "I will not attempt to describe my feelings on the
accomplishment of my voyage, for this is the main source of
IMKKS KXI'KDITION. 127
the Mississippi." and on Pobruary 12th. he wrote, after a
march to Rod Cedar lake: -This may be called the upper
.source of the Missippi river."
^,ij
4f .<^J^ o Jr« ffs
iH-lL.
KXTKACT FIIOM LIKUT. /. M. PIKE'S CIIAUT NEA1{ SOURCE OF Till!
Mississii'i'i, 1805-6.
The Red Cedar lake of Pike's map is the Cass lake ol
the State Map of Minnesota of the present time. Examin-
ing the surroundin*^: locality, taking observations for his
position which he gave as "Lat. 47\ 38'; Long. 95°, 08'."
Conferring with the Indians who designated him and his de-
tachment, "neither Frenchmen nor Englishmen, but white
Indians." advising the traders of the supremacy of the
United States over that portion of the public domain, mak-
ing extraordinary elt'orts to curtail and suppress Indian
\2^ THK MISSISSIPPI UIVKU AND ITS SOUIiCK.
wart'urt' between the tribes, the return luarch was, Jiti«?r
many hardships atidsutleriii;;s, ar('<>mi)lished. to the block-
liouso at Two Rivers, in Mareli, iHOti. and spending sotne
days in the hunt for subsistence, at tlie opening; of sprin;;,
tho l)oats on the river were resumed, and on the 30th of
April, after an al>s«»nce of ei^'ht months and twenty-two
days, th(i detachment reached St. Louis.
Of Lieut. Pike it may be said that he was constituted, and
his physical and mental energies peculiarly fitted him for,
the leader of a hazardous trip into an unknown country.
Surrounded by the dangers and sutferings of a northern
winter, beyond civilization, with no facilities for communi-
cation, and warring tribes of savages on either hand, sub-
sistence only for four months, and that i)artly destroyed,
and, in his absence, S(iuandered by the sergeant of tlie de-
tachment, he accomi)lished a task certainly requiring the
ability he so successfully displaj'^ed. He successively re
ceived promotion as Captain, Major and Colonel, and as
Brig. General led the American forces in 1M13 against York
(now Toronto) Canada, where he fell mortally wounded from
the explosion of the British magazine.
He was born at Lamberton, N. J., January 5th, 1779, was
twenty-six years of age at the time of his expedition to the
source of the Mississippi, and was but thirty-four years of
age at the time of his death.
In 1806, it was believed that Pike had actually penetrated
to the source of the river, and it was a misfortune that he
did not meet at that time William Morrison, from whom he
could well learn many facts of geographical importance.
Mr. Morrison, at the time of Pike's expedition, it will be
remembered, was at an outpost.
IMKKS KXI'KDITION. \'2\)
That Piko boli.'vcd thuthc had iM'tu-tnitod to ila. source
is certain, but one fonsidenition abovo all others predoini
nates. His iufornK.tion was entirely hearsay and he look
for <,'ranted the stories told him of the Turtle lak.. .source.
That locality then had a considerable population of Indians
and whilt! traders from the Canadian provinces. No actual
exploration in the Held along the upper branches of the Miss-
issippi was had by him, the whole country, lakes, rivers and
streams beinj,- covered with ice and snow, and to all the
l)oints visited by him he was guided by the inhabitants of
the locality. His voyage at the time was considered as suc-
cessful as it was remarkable. Certain it is that exi)osure
and want of knowledge of the country made it a hazardois
undertaking. Pike says nothing whatever of Itasca (then
Elk) lake.
-9
srr.-hivisKix \i\th.
THF^: LKVVIS (!ASS KXI'KDITTON; THROUGH LAKK
SUI»KKIOK; CAMP AT SANDY LAKK; VOYAGK
DOWN THK MISSISSHM'T FROM CASS LAKK.
OctoVjOf 9t,h, 17HL'. ill Ex('t(M", N(!\v Hampshin;, Lowis Cays
\v?.s boiTi. His fatlu!!' was a major in tho Revolutionary
Army. In 17!t!>, h(! was stationcjdat Wilminj^ton. Del., whcire
his .son L(!wis secured ein])loym(Hit as a teacli(!r. Removing'
to Ohio in IHOO. Lewis Cass took up the study of law, was
two y(!ai-s latei- admitted to tho bar and was eloct<>d a, mem
l)i'f ()\' the le'<^islatun!, wh<!re he became' prominent in activf;
consideration of th(; de'si«;ns of Aaron I'urr. He was an offi-
cer in the "war of 1^12, Ohio Volunteers, and was ])rornot(!d
\() the rank of liri<:?adier Oencjrai.
In <^)ctober, IHKJ, hf; was appointed Governor o.' Micfii«^an
Tfsrritory, a position he \ut\d for ei^htcjen y(!ai's, m-Uu^ also
rj-ojllcio, as Superintemhint of Indian alTairs of h's terri-
tory. Iti his capacity as govern<»r\ <ni .Vovembfu- IHth, IHl'.i,
hi! addressed a communication to Hofi. .)ohn C. Calhoun,
Secr<!tary of Wai, proposing iiM expedition to and throufjh
Lake Superior and to Um .sources of tlie Mississippi, for an
f!.\'ami nation of Uu^. principal featar(!S of tVie Northwest, trib
utaj-y U> Lake SujKU'ior and thr; Mississippi rivfsr. Th(!
Hon. Secretary of War, January 14th, IHL'O, sanctioned the
proposed expcidition and ^ave instructions for its equipment,
CASS KXI'K.DITFOX.
131
(|(»partur«i and route lor oljscrvalion. 'I'his expedition <!ni-
l)arl<«!d in canoos at D(!t,roit, Mic,hi<,'ari, May lilth. IHL'O,
accompairMKl by a detachment of soldiers, lleuiry li. Sehool-
craft as inin(!r ilof^ist, (Japt. D \i. Douglass as iopo<^rapliei-
and astrononrior, and a number of boatme'n and Indian hunt-
OKN. M:\V I - CASH.
ers. (iovornor Cass' expedition asctonded tli<( St. (Jiair
river, coast(!d Lake JIuron and reached fSaitIt Ste. Mari(^ in
safety after niiicii delay on account of head wIikJs Gov.
Cass by his intnjpidily and f(!arl<;ss ac-tion, coiri{)f;lled th(!
huiiatis to relincpjish d(!si«^ns against him, nt.'f^otiated t!ie
treaty of .Iun(; Kith. IHilO. and on themorninj? of tlie follow
in^day. proceed(;d on his voyaj^e. At the end of tlie forty-
third day (July Hth ) the expeditien reached in safety the
132 THK MISSISSII'IM KIVKK AND ITS SOUKCK.
mouth of the St. lionis river, at the westorn oxtremity of
L;ik(i Supori(jr. I*;issin<^ up tlK^ St. Louis rivor, (ion. Cass
and his party acc<jrnplisli(!(l a difficult jjortajj^c across tlu;
sutnrnit dividing? tho watoi-s of Sup(>rior from those of the
Mississippi valley, reaching Sandy Lake station, a Iradin*^'
post of one of the fur compani(!s, July Ifjth. Lieut. t*ike
had readied this station fourt«,'en yc^ars before them on his
winter voyage to thci sourc»'s.'
Hor(! (Jov. Cass <'ncamped his ])rinci})al force and in two
canoes ])roceeded, with Mi". Schoolcraft, Maj. Forsyth,
Capt. Douj.?lass, Dr. Wolcott and Lieut. Mackay, as attaches
of his sub expedition, to discovijr and explore the soui'ces of
the Mississippi. Tin; party left Sandy lake July 17th. and
f(!ached the up{)ei- Red Cedar lak(! the 21sl, whi(;h Mi-.
Schoolci'aft named Cass lake '^ in honor of the ieadei' of the
exp(!dition, and by this name it has sinc(; been known.
Fnnn ' he Chippewa Indians a1 Cass lakfs, Uia ^overnoi-
learned that the source; of the riv(!r was Lac La Biche, about
fifty miles to the "west-northwest" c»f Cass lake. Upon the
same; information, he also learned that tin; wat(!i" was very
low and that it was next to impossibh; to st(!m the cui-rents
of the main str(!am, enterin*^ Cass lake; at its southwestern
<;xtremity, in their canoes, durinj^tlui low water. Cov. Cass
submiUed th<;se itcuns of interest to his associates and upon
consultation, it was determined to comnumcu; the retuiwi
journey to Detroit, via the Mississi})pi to St. Anthony Falls
and the Wisconsin river. H(! and his parly embarked on
their retiirn journey .July 21st, 1820, and successfully
reached and i)assed St. Anthony Falls, Fort Snellin;;^, Lake
Pei>in, Prairie du Chien,th(mce up the valley of tho Wisconsin
I. It Is |iri)I)al)le l.lijit LoHiK'ur asiri-rifU'd llii; MlSHlsslpi)! ms far ;is Sandy Lake,
a. At first <allf(l (.'Msslria lakf.
CASS KX IM; I )]'!' I UN.
183
;ni(l down tho Fox river. Soon ;ifUM" tlio (.'xpodition was di-
vided lor the ])iirpo.s(; of coustinji- l^e shores <;f (Jr(!cnBa.y
and of Lulce Mi(;hi<^un. (lov. Cu.ss arrivcul at D(;troit, Sep-
t,(Muber l.'th, IHl'O, liavinji; crossed th<; south<!rn peninsula of
JR.C3 l.aKc /^)
JL LuLeish. " ~
jLcccn if
JL /f^f/7>/e/jeiL
^/7>//.r Of'J^^^efa
IHA.
SKCTIOV OK A MAr* SIIOWINO IIIH 1 UACK I'lKSIKD IIV IMK KXPKDI-
TION CXOKK <H>V. C'.LSS IN IM20. ISV MKMtV R. S( Il(><)l.( 'ItA KT.
Miehi«^an in the saddh;. His voya^*; oeeupiod one hundred
and fitt(.'en days. SuVjsequenlly, (iov. Cass attained a
national reputation, was sent abroad, and May 22nd, 184H,
he was nominated as the Democratic candidate for J 'resident
184 TIIK MISSISSIIM'I lilVKIi AND ITS SOUIICK.
of thr; I'tiit«M| Stutos. Mis candor us L'riitod St,ul<;s S(!naU)r
rrf)m Miclii^'iui. ;in<l as Socn^tary of StaU^ lUKit-r Pnjsidcnt.
liuchanaii, i> ;t part of 1lic liislocy of tin; J^V!(l<!ral Uopublir;.
H(! (lit'd at, Detroit. .liiiH! ITth, IH<U), at Um; af^(; of ci'^hty-
four yoars.
Th<; (!ass cxiM'dilion of IHtiO to tin; source of th(j Missis-
si[)i)i, up(jn ;i dittcifnt and TTioiv; «!xtonsivo route, and under
more favoi-ablc; circumstances than that of TJcut. IMke,
proved to hi- an imjiortant event in th(! liistory of the uortli-
west, and paved the way in enaVjlinj^ Mr-. Schoolcraft to
easily reacli, twelve years Iat«.'r, the Itasca liasin.
'rh(( hij^hest ])oirit reachisd by CJov. (^ass and liis i)arty,
was at tlic north shore of Cjass lalc( \v<!st of tlu- nioutli of
Turtle riser. ^J'he inap of tin; 7-outf! travfsrsfMl by the Class
expedition. |)iepared by Mr Schoolcraft and pid>lished in
1M21, is tlie first, definite chart establishing^ the existence of
Lac La liiche. at the It/asca locality of the prescmt day. T\w.
directJofi, how(!ver. was (U'roneou.sly j^iven as northwest.
inst<fad of southw<!St. from Cass lake.
Cass ('ounty, Minnesota, was naincnl in honor of tlie leader
of tliis expedition, and the ncxnenclatiUi-e of the IJppfu- lied
Cedar lake; soon «^av(! wa.y upon the su«.^<^estion of Mr.
Schoolcraft, siture wliich titnfj it has «^one down on the ina])s
as Cass lake.
When (iov. (Jass abandoned his purpose; to asc<!nd the
Mississippi, to its source, he was within an Ga.sy distance,
com])aratively si)eaking, to the ^oal sou*:^ht for. Less tim-
idity had often been displayed in canoe voyaj^es, (jven in the
face of low water, and an O za-win-dib. or a Ke«^-wed-zis sag '
would have easily won the battle of the day for Gen. Cass.
I (;:i \ -'.'Wi-d-o-s:! V.
BELTRAMI.
SIT.-DIVISION TKXTIl.
J. C. BELTRAMI: CIVIL. MILITARY AND JUDICIAL
PURSUITS; THE COUNTESS OF ALBANY; AN
EXILE; HERO WORSHIP; VOYAGE TO AMERICA;
THIRST FOR GEOGRAPHICAL DISCOVEE^Y; VOY-
AGE UP THE MINNESOTA AND DOWN THE RED
RIVER; AT PEMBINA; BELTRAMI REACHES RED
AND TURTLE LAKES; LOCATES THE SOURCE OF
THE MISSISSIPPI AT JULIA LAKE; DOE LAKE: SUC-
CORED BY CHIPPEWA INDIANS; RESEARCHES
OP MR. ALFRED J. HILL: BELTRAMI COUNTY
J. C. Beltrami, known in his native land as Giacomo Con-
stantino Beltrami, was born in Bergamo, Italy, in 1779. his
father being a custom-hor^e officer of the Venetian Re-
public. A family tradition indicates the derivation of the
name from Beltrami des Goths, refugees from Paris in 1572.
The subject of this review was a student of the law, like
wise acquiring a mastery of the languages. He was
attached to the army of his native country as vice-inspector.
Returning to civil pursuits, he was made a judge of the
Civil and Criminal Court at Macerata. Retiring in l^<lll to
Florence, he formed relations with the Countess of Albany^
1. Madiiiiie Lu Cotntcssi- ('i)riip;ij;ii(ini. iieu P;isseri.
!;{♦) IIIK .MISSlSSII'I'l l£l\KI< A.M» IT-- ,SULlt( K.
and others of hi^li fiuil<. and \v;is (•(•itiiiM'nd<'<l lor a|)|)<)inl
I IK -lit to till' chair ol t he l'r«'>id<'iit <»!' t he ( lourt ol l''oi-|i. sub-
j«!ct, to th<' im|H'rial .sanction of l''r'atfc«'. 'IMu'disturlx-d condi-
tion of his nativf ccnmlry chanj^cd th^Muitin^ lif'nof yoijn«^ li(d
trami. He iipjMiars t») h;ivc Ix'cn ;i rriiiii of \\]<i:\\ aspirations,
peculiar at)ilit ics, n partisan, slandiM*^ upon the (jncstion of
lionor ratln'i- than cniohinn'nt. for his country ;is well :is foi-
hiinsolf. 'I'hus wc find hiiii in l^L'l. when, sutlerin;.' from tlie
elTects c»f an injured 1hi;^'h, he was compelled to|e;i\e the
liotna^na and <;o into exile.
That he was a horo worsliipper. with hut one hero and
that hiins(df, re;;rettin«; liis own niisfortunes ;tnd those of
Italy, which seemed to prosper without his presences, are
opinions forced upon ;i student of liistory in a c;ireful
examination of his writing's.
In a voya<^e across the ocean to the shorv-s of Amei'ica. he
experien<;ed Ji stormy passaj^e. with rcsultard indis[)osition
and a «;r(}at want of sympathy on the jiart of tho ofticers of
th(! sFii]) and tFie jiassen^'ers a portion of whom iio thouj^hl
to be pirates. He readied the Amorican l\ei)ul)lic in a half
starvj'd conditir)n. thanlcful that he was stil alive, after a
voyaj^e of tliree and one half months.
It apj)ears he t')ok upon lumself the task of ^^eoe-raphical
discovei'ies in -Nmerica. |)roceedin;.,' to I'tiiladelphia, thonce
to St. Louis and to l-'ort Sn<'llin^'. from which plac(! lie
addressed a characteristic conLmunication to "The Countess"
on.MayLM. l^-iJ. Ih- remained at Kort Sncdlin^' until the
lollowinj;? -Inly when ho asked and s('curod permission to ac-
company MaJ. Lon^', who was in ciiar^'eof an expedition for
the United States f?overnm<;nt, on a journey up th(5 Minnesota
rivei- to IVijjT Stone lake and down the Red river of the North
HKI/I ICAMI S SOYACiK. 187
to l*«'rnl)iii;i. Ifc atoIc: "My lirst iiitctitiun. Ihatnf ffoiny
in Hf^ar'li <»! the f«'jil soiirct-s oT ihf ,\Iis^>issi|tpi, was
always Ix'l'on- my «'y<!S."
Tht; cansj's of 1 lie contcmitt in wliicfi Major lion;; lioid
licit rami, the joncncy ii|> the Minn«'sot,a and down tins Red
liver, l)iitTalo liiints, ftinrt'n'ncos with tin; Sifjux Indians and
iIm! rf'fiisiil of M.'ijof Fion^' ;it |N'inl)in;i to further p«>rniit
I'ejtrami to ri-tnain with his di'tacJirncnt, juc well known to
readers ol events occnrin;.? at that, time.
At I'etntjin:;, Beltrami undertook to ac(!oni|)lisli the dream
of his existxsnce- th«! dis(tovei'y of t,h«! source of the Missis
sippi river, and with two ('hippewas and one (nix<!d Mood,
lie star'ted <mi his \-oyaj^«! t.o lietJ lakts, hut before reachin;r
that place, his ^uide return«!d and he was desorted by liis
Indian (•ompanions, aft<'r an jittacK- from a, horjy of Sioux,
:ind he was left alone to propel his canoe up the stream tr>
lied lakf). Not knowin^c how to mana^f! a birrth canoe, it
cai)sized, throwinj^' him into IIk; stream, but he finally |)ro
cfjodod on his journey up iIm- river by wading in advance of
his canoe, and, with a tow line, carryin«,c 't^ hy main force
a«^ainst the current, lie I'cached Ked lake and en^'a«,'in^c a
•;uid(! and int<!rpr(!ter, procefuled. c()nsiderin<^ himself in a
iountry "when^ no white man had prc'viously travf'll(3d."
Now comm<!n(;ed what Beltrami rej^arded as a rapid advanco-
ment to th<! pinnacle of fam*;. He was guided to dilfcirent
lak(!S in th«.' locality, to whi(;h Im; attaclied names, lb; jir-o-
c(;<!ded upon the theory th.'it "the .sources (^f a river whifdi
are most in a rij^ht line with its mouth, should be considered
as its principal sources, and j)articularly when they issue
from a <-,ardinal point and flow to th<! on<( direr:tly opposite."
lie left Ued lake Auf^ust LMith. 1823, and pi-oc('(;ded by well
\'4H TWf. Mississii'iM KiVKii AM» ITS soirurK.
Utiown |)(jitii^c.s uiKltT tlw <Jii'»'c!i«»n ol liis ;^ui(l<', lowunl
Turtle lul:<'. attach in;,' tiaiiK's lo Ww difTfnjtit, lak«'.sh«' passffl
f)i) Ills rr)ut»'. siibNistifi;^' f*!! ;^arii«' iiii<i wild vivo.. On tho I'^ith
of Aii^^usl. lu' was ;^ni(lH<I to a spot Ik; dos(!rib«'s as \h*-
lii^^lu.'st laruJ of North Airn(ri<ta, :un\ castin;^ his ••y«> arf)un«l.
lit! p«;n;«'iv«'<| the Mow of wat<irs. .south, to th«' < Julf of M«!xi<o;
north, to tlic fro/cti soa; (sust, to th*' Atlantir; und w«':st.
towards thf I'liciijc Ocoan.
Tho lan;;ua;,'<' iisf^d hy Hidtranii in (h'scrihin;^ this spot
is KO <!Xtr!ior(linary that it is w<fll worth a <'ar«?ful study. It
is a koy to tin; characrtcr of th«! «fxil«! who carrH! to Atiu'.v'icn
to p«!rfofin |i'at,s iri discov^Ty sidTi(;i«'nt to astonish th<-
woi'ld, ;in<l as a spocirnon of his writin;j^s the followin.L'
quotation is ^rivcn:
"A \'ast pliitlocni crowns tliis distin;?uish«j<l suppMnc
t'lovatiori, and what is inoro astonishing;, in th«( midst, of it
ris(!S a lake. How is this lake forrncdy Wlusncj! do it^^
waters pro(;«!«!u y This lake has no issiu;! And my eyes
which aie not delicicnt in sharpness cannot <iis(;over in the
whole <!xt<!nt of the clearest and wi(h!st hoi'i/on, any land
which rises abov«( it. All places around it are, on the con
trary, consid<!rahly lowc!-.'"
lioltratni prfM;eede(| to examine the surr"oundin;.c country,
its charactteristics, searched j'oi- volcanic action, srjundcd the
lak(; to find it hotlomlnss, named it * Lake .lulia."' and pi-o
nouncod it the .luliati sf)urc(,'s of liloody river und the .lulian
.sourc(!S of the .Mississippi. This, withfjut ((\«!n invosti^atin;r
wViotlK'r the waters of Lake Julia. so-(;alled, fr>und their way
into liio Mississippi or not. II<! accfjptod tho statement of Ids
;;uido that they did tiiat Keom«!d U) bo siif!ici<;nt, and Lake
Julia was published U) the; (mtirecivilized worldas lh<!.sf»urce
MKI/IUA.MI S \(>V.\<;K.
IHO
<»l Ihf Mi.ssi,ssi|i|ii iiv'«'r. II is chiiiiis tn ofi;fiiml <li.s<*«)\ory w«tr«!
vsiriously <-r>iiiMiciiti-<l upon, t«» somi- fxtftii acci-ptiuj, pi'iii-
<*ipi'illy in KiinuM'. \m\ tlif ;ictivo nxploralions mI' Aiinjriciuti
;;«'o<^r!iplnTs soon siip«'i<<-(lc<) liiiii in iictuul ilis<!oviiri«H and
lli«! r;iri<ilul ".luiiiin Souro-s" w«t«' «'X|»lo(lc<l to j?iv« plarto
lo t,h<! ifiii sourci'. It is a sin«fui!ir (•<t\iic\(U'i\f*' that \itd-
tratni wroU- f)l' his lak«!: '-It is fV»rnn'<i in flit- sliapf of a
^
^^^ v^^,
^"XwH K '* t *L £,
7'Ae /i<y~f lu-^</ - fit
KXII!A*'I' KltOM ISKI/IICAMI'S r IIAUT. I«2H.
h«;ai't, und it iriny h<! Iriiiy said to sjx^ak of iht; v«'cy soul."
'IMion; appf'iii's. latcf on, ;int»tln'r licjirt, shap<'<l l;tl\<' in \,\ni
history of tfi*- sourr-c. Mis j^uidf advisod liini of tli<! <!xist-
I'uc.i'. of Lac La liichi'. and h<! {)lac«'d i1 upon Mm; chart as
"l>oo lak<}, W. source of thr; Mississippi."
It is a fact that tin; astronotruir Thornpson ii;i<l. Iwcnty-
livo yoars pr«;vious U) Beltrami's visit, surveyed th<; .Julian
14>) 'JHK MISSIHSll'I'l iilVEK AND ITS SOUHCK.
lake region with somewhat different I'esults. and certainly
with less e.vajJT^erated claims to discoveries, without Pike's
map to g-iiide him.
Beltrami found his way into the waters of Cass lake, vis-
ited Leech lake and aftei" varying hardships and privations,
reached Port Snelling, Fort St. Charles on the Missouri,
and New Orleans. At the time of his arrival at Fort Snell-
ing, his raiment had been entirely exhausted, his apparel
now being only such as had been supplied him by the In-
dians— with a piece of bark for a hat.
A copy Qf his map ^ is giv^en herewitli, snowing Lake
Julia, upon which also, will be noticed Doe lake, now known
as Itasca. This map has a pointed similarity to that of
Lieut. Pike's— 1805-6.
Beltrami found his way to New Orleans, where he pub-
lished LA DECOUVEKTE DES SOURCES DU MISSIS-
SIPPI, in lb24. It would appeur that he was .severely criti-
cised by American newspapers at that time.
The researches of Mr. Alfred J. Hill have brought to the
attention of Minnesotians, Beltrami's personal history, from
the records of, and correspondence with, the authorities
of Bergamo. '^ He embarked at New Orleans for Mexico,
which country he traversed from the Gulf to the Pacific
Ocean and returning reached London about A. D. 1827,
where he published his ' • Pilgrimage in Europe and
America " in two volumes, a work from which is taken, in
connection with the publication of Mr. Hill, these brief
facts of Beltrami's history and assumed geographical dis-
coveries. That he was an adventurer of considerable note,
will be readily admitted. His career during the remainder
1. Beltrami's map should be compared wiili that of Lieut. I'ilce.
2. Beltrami's native town.
BELTUAMIS VOYAOK. 141
of his life from 182ft to IH')") was of no special interest. He
died at the age seventy-tive at Filotrano. Twu portraits
of Beltrami appear — one in his Indian costume while he was
at Leech lake, produced in his •■ Pilgrimage" and a repro-
duction of Prof. Scuri from the former, supplemented by
traditionary information — the latter portrait, a conspic-
uously imaginary production, is given herewith. Prof.
Scuri, no doubt, drew largely upon his fancy, inasmuch as
the facts point with an unerring certainty to Beltrami's
abject condition, with but little food and scanty apparel
while he sojourned near the head-waters of the Missis-
sippi, and but for the kindness of the charitably inclined
Chippewas who accompanied him from Leech lake to Fort
Snelling, he would probably have perished. Due credit is
given Beltrami in placing upon his map, "Doe lake, west
source of the Mississippi," afterwards named Itasca, though
of its existence and name. Gen. Cass" Expedition of 1820
gave the first published infoi'mation.
He gathered and transported to Europe many Indian curi-
osities, which are now in the possession of the authorities
of the city of Bergamo, commemorative of his voyage
through the lines of hostile and warring tribes of the
Northwest at so early a date, and of his claims to the dis-
covery of the Julian sources.
Beltrami County has been inscribed upon the geography
of Minnesota in honor of his memory, and singularly
enough, the Itascan as well as the so-called Julian source,
are both situated within its limits.
SIKDIVISIOX ELEVENTH.
HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT; HE ACCOMPANIES
GEN. CASS IX IbL'O ; PROCEEDS TO LAC LABICHE IN
1832 ; SELECTS THE NAME ITASCA ; DISCOVERS
THE LAKE; SCHOOLCRAFT ISLAND ; OZAWINDIH.
The peace of Utrecht, 1718. controlled the destinies of
an English gentleman of education and refinement, who
came to America during the reign of Queen Anne. He
settled in Albany County. New York, establishing an Eng-
lish school, and his descendants continued their residence
there for a hundred years. One of the descendants of
this family was Col. Lawi-ence Schoolcraft, a Revolu-
tionary soldier, and commanding, in the war of 1812, the
first regiment contributed by his locality. He was united
in marriage with Miss Barbara Rowe. of German parentage.
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, the subject of this portion of
the present inquiry and examination, was the seventh of
a large' family, the issue of this union. Enjoying the
advantages of an early education, he pursued an advanced
course at Union College, Schenectady, and Middlebury,
Vermont. At the time the attention of this country was
drawn to the resources of the Mississippi valley, he ac-
cepted the offer of De Witt Clinton, at the age of twenty-
#'
^-t^e-
^^^ -^^-— ^ -^^^^^
^'^^(^^^^-^e^^V^lrrrtg^^^^:^
HENKY HOWE SCHt)OL( UAKT. 143
four, to on^ugo in da exploration of the country west of
the great river, spending two years in the territory now
comprising the states of Missouri and Arkansas, publish-
ing on his return two treatises, which brought liis ca-
pabilities as a geologist and geographer before the public,
and his services were called for as geologist and miner-
alogist to the expedition of Lewis Cass, from Detroit.
Michigan, in 1820, to the sources of the Mississippi.
Leaving New York city by stage, March 5th, 1^20, vis-
iting Niagara with horse and buggy, embarking for Detroit
on the steamer Walk- in-the- Water, he arrived at his des-
tination on May 8th. The Cass expedition, with School-
craft as a scientific attache, left Detroit May 24th. 1820,
and by an extraordinary canoe voyage, memorable in the
history of the Northwest, proceeded to the great lakes,
to the west end of Superior, up the St. Louis river,
portaging to the Mississippi, and up the great river to
Cass lake; thence down the river by way of Fort Snell-
Ing, visiting Carver's cave, proceeding to Prairie du Chien,
across the territory of Wisconsin, arriving at Detroit,
September 23d.
During this extraordinary canoe voyage. Mr. School-
craft made daily observations of geologic formations and
niineralogic deposits through the entire region traversed,
including the copper mines of Superior, the lead mines
at Galena, and the clay deposits at Milwaukee, making
a detailed report to the Secretary of War. accompanied
by charts, of all his observations.
The Cass expedition failed to discover the ultimate
Basin at the headwaters of the Mississippi. Hov-'ever.
the peculiar capabilities of Mr. Schoolcraft, indicated by
144
THE MISSISSIi'IM IJIVKti AND ITS SOl-RCK.
his scientitic n-port to the authorities at Washin«i:ton.
phiced Ills services in demand, and in 1^;10. as United
States Superintendent of Indian Atfairs for Michigan,
residinj^r at Sault de Ste. Marie, he received instructions
from tlie department at Washington to visit the North-
west in charge of an expedition, ostensibly for confer-
ences with the Indians, but in reality to determine the
true source of the
Mississippi. Not until
183l» did the School,
craft expedition make
its final and successful
discovery. The Rev.
\V. T. Boutwell. repre-
senting a Board of
Commissioners forPor-
eign Missions, accom
panied this expedition.
The Lac La Biche
was already known to
exist, and Mi. School-
craft was determined
to reach it, carrying
out his other objects
of observation while en route by canoe voyage through
Lake • Superior. Messrs. Schoolcraft and Boutwell
were personal associates, voyaging in the same canoe
through Superior, and while conversing on their travels
along the south shore of the great lake, the name "Itasca"
was selected in the following manner, in advance of its
discovery by Schoolcraft's party.
KEV. W. T. BOUTWELL.
raf^tisc
Lo/f' ' Ptaft^ctoenetr
Schoolcrayt /
» ie*if^J''t »H /^ ^-*^ ^v>t «?^cc o ^/ Co Otif iZ^s ,
"^
^^.
><^
%%
.^^
^'^^' 2?e5 T^^'^'eS
ri^^
SKETCH OF TIIE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER. DRAWN TO ILLUSTRATE
SCHOOLCRAFT'S INLAND JOURNEY TO ITASCA LAKE, 1832.
HKNKV UOVVE SCHOOLCKAFT. 145
Mr. Schoolcraft, having; up]>Grmost in liis mind the
source of the river, oxpectinjr and determined to reach
it, suddenly turned and asked Mr. Boutwell for the (Jreek
itnd Latin dofitition of the lieadwaters or true source of
a river. Mr. Boutwell. after much thouj^ht, could not rally
his memory of Greek sutticiently to designate the phrase,
but in Latin selected the stronj?est and most pointed
expressions, • lV'/*<7a.s". and "('n/iKt," — Truth. Head.' This
was written on a slip of paper, and Mr. Schoolcraft struck
out the first and last three letters, and announced to Mr.
Boutwell that "Itasca shall be the name."
However. Mr. Schoolcraft says: '' Havinj^r previously got
an inkling of some of their (Indian) mythological and
necromantic notions of th i origin and mutations of the
country, which permitted the use of a female name for
it, I denominated it Itasca." From Rev. W. T. Bout-
well'^ in person, a vivid description of the naming of
Itasca as above given was secured.
The party passed over nearly the identical route tra
versed by the Cass expedition, reaching Cass lake July
lOtii, 1832, and upon the advice, information and guidance
of Ozawindib, a Chippewa Indian, proceeded in birch
canoes, up the main tributary of Cass lake, up the smaller
fork of the Mississippi, thence by portage to the east
shore of the east arm of Itasca lake, and to an encamp-
ment on Schoolcraft island. During the day, Mr. School-
craft traversed the shores of Itasca, erecting the Stars
and Stripes on the island, and returned to Cass lake;
1 The first words Klven by Mr. Boutwell. however, were ••Veruin", "Caput." and
Mr. Schoolcraft chose the last words jiivon.
'■i Recently decea.sed.
-10
un
THK MISSISSMMM IMVEU AND ITS SOUUt'E.
Ihence to Limu-Ii lako. down
to hiH destination u|)on the
MRS. .lAXK SCnOOLCUAFT.
in which he livod— geology,
lh»,' Crow Wing river, and
return voyage.*
For nearly fifty y»'ars
Mr. Schoolcraft was in
the service of the gov
ernment of the United
States as geologist,
mineralogist, and geog-
rapher, and his reports
and communications are
voluminous, and for the
period of time during
which his observations
were made, were con-
sidered highly valuable
and creditable, as well
to himself as to the au-
thority he represented.
We must judge of Mr.
Schoolcraft as of the time
in its infancy in the western
1 III 1821, while at Sault Ste. Marie, Michlfran, Mr. Seluxjlcraft becaino acqualnti-d
with .lolin .loliiiston. Es(|., and his attrai'tivi- faniilv. Mr. Jolinston was an Iii<li
gontloiitau. In fact, an aristocrat, o' supiTlor education and courtly manners, wlio
claimed anionj? his Ivinsmen tiic Kisliop of Dromore and Mr. Saurin, Attorney Gen-
eral of Ireland. Mr. Jol'.iiston was attracted by tlic beautiful daujiliterof one of
the reno\vn(41 Indian cliiefs of tlie 0,jil)W!iys. Waul)o.)ef>r. and married lier. Tliclr
eldest dau^liter. Jane, was sent in her early childliood to Dublin, to t)e educated
under tlie supervision of Mr. Jolmston's kindred tht-re. Mr. .Johnston's means
enal)led liim to dispense u liospitality almost princely, and Mr. Schoolcraft was
amonj; those who shared in it. and when Miss .lane Johnston returned home, Mr.
Sclioolcraft was Immediately captivated, not only by her personal attractions, l)ut
by the grace and culture of a mind that added to the advantages of education and
accomplishments the refinement of a poetic nature. After her marriage with
Mr. Schoolcraft, slie was a true sympathizer in all his pursuits and a valual)ie
helper. The romantic pride wliicli slie felt ijccausc of lier descent on the mother's
side from one of the native Ivliis^ of tlic count r.\, iinluci-d lier to perfect herself in
HKNKY HOWy. 8CHOOLCUAKT. 147
country', peo^raphic discovory inconipl<'t<\ ;ind a School-
craft, yoiuij; and ambitious to siozc tlic opportunity offered
for exploration and topojirraphic examination, commissioned
with authority, endowed with ener^jy. enli^rhtencd in his
younger years by civilized contact, sensibi*' of his sur-
roundin;;s and opportunities— the educated <;entleniaii.
rej)resentin^' his country "u an inipoi'taiit tifld of labor.
He has jfiveu us "Itasca."' and the name will live until
the end of time — a monument to those who so uniquely
constructed its name.
Mr. Schoolcraft wrote :
" VViiliin a l)eaut«'uus basin, fair outspread
Ilfsporiiin woitcllarids of the western sl<y,
As if in Indian niytlis a trnth there could be read.
And these were tears indeed, by fair Itasca shed."
It is not proposed herein to ex])ress any opinion as to
what purpose Mr. Schoolcraft had in withholding from the
public the manner in which this name was sele( ted, nor
to discuss the inference drawn from the record he has
left us, in which he plainly intimates that the name was
tluit of a female. mytholo»rical. necromantic or otherwise ;
it is but of small consequence. Certain it is. the word was
never heard of or known in Ojibway mythology. 'There
is no such word nor even any remotely resembling it in the
Ojibway language." writes Kev. J A. Giltillan, for sixteen
llie Indian iiinRuaRP. atid tlius she lu'canu- of einitu'iit wervice in proiiiolins; her
husband's knowledge of and iiilliu'nce ainoiij; tlio tril)es. She i>: t-redited by sorne
lis beiri}; tlio authoress of a portion of Mr. Schnoleraffs •'.\rchlves of Aboriginal
Ivnowledge ", and otlier works.
Mr. Solioolcraft was retained in uovernmiiQt service at Sault Ste. Marie for some
ten years, wlien he was assigned to tlie ''Agency " at Mackinac where liis home was
a social center, and where many travelersof distinction found agenerous hospital-
ity under liis roof. AI)out tlie year 1840 lie returned to his native state. In lt<42.
he u^ade bis long desired visit to England, and while he was absent his wife died.
148
THK MISSISSIPPI HIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
years a student of the language *. Prejudices existed to
some extent against Mr. Schoolcraft, for it was but natural
that voyageurs in those early
days should deride the ex-
ploits and successes of others
in whom they had no interest,
and of whose labors they
heard but to condemn.
AstoMv Schoolcraft's sojourn
at Itasca and the manner in
which he reached the lake,
much might be said. The tale
is a simple one of oi'dinary
occurrences and extraordinary
results. The Ojibway, Oza-
windib. residing with his tribe
at Cass Irke, had his hunting
grounds in the direction of the
Basin and knew the locality
w^ell, in fact it was his home
and field of subsistence, and he.
an uncrowned king of the forest,
with an undisputed title to a do-
Se,hoolc>»/
SOURCES
OF THE
MISSISSIPPI RIVEK,
DRAWN TO ILLUSTRATE
SCHOOLCRAFT'S DISCOVERIES,
BY CAl'T. S. EASTMAN,
U, S. A.
1855.
1. Durln;: an interview witli Kev. W. T. Boutwell, by tlie writer, a few months
previous to liis deatli, he made tlie following statement :
"Mr. Schooli-raft and myself were personal friends and at his instance I
became a "member of liis party in 1832. We proceeded on our westward journey
along the south shore of Superior in the same canoe, as eotnpanions. I
think it was at a point west of the Pictured Rocks, while we were voyaging in
our canoe, that Mr. Schoolcraft suddenly turned to me one day and asked the
question, "what is the Greek and Latin definition of tl»e iiead waters or true
source of a river V After much thought I could not rally my memory of G .2k
sufBclently to designate the name ; but in Latin. I selected the strongest and
most pointed expressions. The tirst words given by me were VisrHm Caput. But I
told Mr. Schoolcraft, if he wanted stronger words, he could take Veritas, Caput,
which meant, .Truth '' Head.' I wrote the words on a slip of paper and Mr.
HENHY HOWE SCHOOLCRAFT. 149
main sinco sciuandered for a mess of pottage. His distinguish-
ed guests were given the liberty of his domain and as their
guide and host, he led the party into the wilderness, up the
main stream, to the head of the lesser branch, across the hills
and valleys and swamps of the intervening country to the
east shore of the east arm of Itasca, near the mouth of the
southeastern affluent, on July IJith, 183l!. At the summit of
jiny considerable hill there, the outlines of the Basin with its
distinct blue lines of curvature can be seen resting against
the shadows of the horizon. Thus Schoolcraft viewed the
Basin. He hurriedly — almost carelessly— examined the
shores of Itasca lake from Ozawindib's canoe, noted his ob-
servations in botany and geology, and accepted his Indian
guide's suggestion that there was a small brook entering
the arm of the lake immediately to the south of Schoolcraft
island. There is no evidence that he saw that brook. Dr.
Houghton. Lieut. Allen and Rev. W T. Boutwell. his com-
panions, busied themselves in as hasty an accomplishment
of their requirements as did Schoolcraft himself, and within
twenty-four hours after their arrival they were all far on
their return journey down the main stream. Mr. School-
craft's map indicates the haste with which he delineated the
shores of the lake, and Ozawindib was undoubtedly his prin-
cipal draughtsman at that time. The camp on Schoolcraft
island attached its name to the place by common consent as
Schoolcraft's camp — hence the name of the island. No rec-
ord, except Lieut. Allen's, is found as to any definite action
Sc'luioleiiift told ino lie slioiiUl strike init the first and la.st letters of VerUas. Caput.
und that 'Iiasca shall be the name.' "
This interview was a very iuterestiug one, had at Mr. Boutwell's home, during
wbich lie related many cireurustanoes concerning the voyage of 1832. He said no
religious reniionies were held at Itasoa lake at that time. Heing a missionary he
was known ariiong the Indians as "Tlie Black Coat."
ir.o
TFIK MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
naming the place. They had the right to i)lace these names
there and that right is amply recognized. As to the charac
SCHOOLCRAFT S MAI" OF ITASCA LAKE, iilK SOURCE OF THE MISSI^-
SIl'l'I RIVER. 'MiJO MILES FROM TIIV: I'.ALI/.E. a MISSISSII'I'I
RIVER, h. ROUTE OF EXPEDITION. C. SCHOOLCRAFT ISLAND.
AS MODIFIED IX 1855 FROM MAP OF 18.'?2.
ter of Ozawindib — the real leader of Schoolcraft's party from
Cass to Itasca and return, directing all their movements,
pointing out the route of passage, controlling the footsteps
of the ambitious explorers, discovering to Schoolcraft the
real lake and its importance — he appears to have been a
characteristic red chief of the forest, as competent as he was
undeceiving, and without him, or some other Indian as well
equipped in knowledge and canoes, the Schoolcraft j^arty
would have wandered into the wilderness to an unsuccessful
conclusion. With the intelligent aid of Ozawindib, the party
were led to their discoveries, and within the calendar week
were on their way to Leech lake, down the Crow Wing river
in canoes to attend a council of Chippewas appointed to
be held, long before, Itas'ca was reached for a specific date.
HENUY KOWK SCHUOLCHAFT.
l.")!
Thus, Lhe haste of the ox])editi<m to leave the Itasca Basin,
without judicious exploration, is accounted for.
It is presumed, reasona-
bly, that Mr. Schoolcraft
would have been astonished
to learn that nearly one
hundred bodies of water^
existed within that basin,
and that the princii)al
afHuents came from beyond
the lake he so artistically
named, chiefly from Greater
and Lesser reservoirs, the
ultimate water-shed of na-
ture's formation, there.
On the return journey.
Mr. Schoolcraft separated
himself from his escort,
Mus. JANE scnooLcuAFT iiowAiiD. under command of Lieut.
Allen, by going forward at a rapid rate, occasionally in
the darkness of night.
1 In Miss Bishop's '• rioiiil Hoini'." IS.">T,j). 2T, slio says: "Wo believe, on good
iiuthorily, that tlie reported source of tlie Mississippi is not the eorreet one.
Captula Eastman of tlie U. S. Army, and otliers liavin^; equal fa"ilities foi' nialvinj;
a correct opinion, witli wlioiu I liave conversed, assert its orifiin to lie a hundred ni
more lakes, of wliich Itasci Is one. all centeriiii; in one point to form tliendghty
river." A statement not very far from the truth.
STlU)TVTsr0X TWELFTH.
A MILITARY ESCORT : LIEUT. JAMES ALLEN AND
DETACHMENT ACCOMPANY SCHOOLCRAFT ; HIS
OBSERVATIONS AND REPORT.
At Washington city. May 9th, 183l\ Gen. A. Macomb.
Major General commanding the army, ordered a detail
of one office]' and ten or twelve men from the garrison
at Fort Brady, to accompany Mr. Schoolcraft into the
Indian country.
The detail consisted of Lieut. James Allen,' one cor-
poral and nine privates. Lieut. Allen was directed to keep
an accurate journal and report at length a description of
the country, a topographic map of the i-oute, and points
of importance, the character and manners of Indian tribes,
subsistence, game, tish, and mineral and geologic observa-
tions, and •his views upon questions of natural history.
Lieut. Allen was subject to the orders of Mr. School-
craft, so far as his escort duties were concerned, and
proceeded with that gentleman to the Itasca Basin. By
placing a compass in the bottom of his canoe, Lieut.
Allen was enabled to nole down extensive observations
as to topography, keeping a very accurate record of dis-
1 Appointed to West Point mlUtary academy. .luly 1st. 1825. from Madison. Jeffer-
son ooiinty, Indiana; graduated in 1829. and assigned to duty as M Lieutenant,
5th Infant rv.
v\'""/v^^','/'-''V"''
Sm\i!^^^I';
%v;:;^^.
%;^'^-^^,
^^Z-;;-'-'.
^.,
</> ^- --i-^r
EXTRACT FROM LIEUT. J, ALLEN'S MAP, 1832. SCHOOLCRAFT'S EXPEDITION.
A MILITAKY KSrOUT. 153
tances and directions. Ai riving' at Itast-y, lake, July 13th.
1H32, with Mr. Schoolcraft, havin«ir encamped his detach-
ment at Cass lake, he says the party spent a couple of
hours at Schoolcraft island, and after raising the Stars
and Stripes, they coasted nearly the entire shores of the
lake, which was about seven miles long and from one
to three broad, having but one small creek entering the
west arm, not of sufficient size to admit of the use of
even a small canoe. He noted on his map the position
of Itasca lake as follows :
Latitude 47 10'
Longitude 9.' 'A'
It would appear that the name of Schoolcraft island
was selected by Lieut. Allen, as described in his journal.
Mr. Boutwell, however, remembers the name of the camj)
there as "Schoolcraft camp"', which by common consent
of all present attached also t(; the island. As memory
may be more at fault than a well noted journal of each
day, possibly Lieut. Allen gave the name, though the
difference is of no special consequence.
Lieut. Allen found the Mississippi at its outlet from
Itasca, to be twenty feet broad and two feet deep, cur-
rent two miles per hour. The statement in his journal
of July 17th, is made, that Mr. Schoolcraft, by the pres-
entation of a medal, constituted his guide, Ozawindib (Yel-
low Head) a chief of his band.
Lieut. Allen's name has been geographically attached
to one locality of the Basin, remembered for a most in-
telligent and detailed journal, of more than ordinary
interest. With his report to his commanding officer, he
154 THK MISSISSIIMM lilVKU AND ITS SOUKCK.
transmitted a map of diffHrent proportions than that of
Mr. Schoolcraft. '
1 Lieut. Allen's military servlro commenced with his roglnient In 1830, ut Fort
Brady. Michigan. On detaohed sfrvU-«>. .Iiirio Otii, IR't'J, up Lake Stiporlor and to tlia
source of tilt! Mississippi. Also on di'laohcd service, oii;;lnei'r duty, ut ('hlcaiio,
1HU7-8. Promoted successively to 1st lieutenant, March Hist, IKi.'S, and as captain,
June 30th, 1S37. Uc died at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, August 23d, 1S46.
The Uev. .lerenilah Porter, of Belolt, Wisconsin, states. In answer to !l communi-
cation concerning Lieut. Alien, addressed to him by the conuiiissloner: " It would
give me much pleasure If I could meet your wishes concernlnj; Lieut. .lames Allen,
tbouKb in Mr. Schoolcraft's family when he and Dr. Ilou^^hton sitid Lieut. Allen
discovered Lake Itasca, and on their return they told me how they had named so
beautifully the lake from the two Latin words. In Eiiitlish they do not exactly
express '• Itasca." I am f?lad the name Is retained by your commbssiou. There was
no harbor at Clilcatfo when I rea hed that little vlllaco In 18;t3, Lieut. Allen was
one of the party eugaged to survey that city now so full of attractions. I do not
now find his name In the history of early times there, and regret I cannot it\ve you
additional fa<'ts of a later date than ls;i:!. How wonderful the progress of our
country since the naming of thatlakel"
snt-DivTsrov TiriirrKKXTir.
NICOLLET'S SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATIONS; ASTRO-
NOMICAL ABILITIES; AN EXILE PROM FRANCE;
MAP OF THE SOURCES; EMPLOYED BY THE
UNITED STATES; DETAILS OF HIS VOYAdE TO
ITASCA LAKE : DISCOVERS FIVE CREEKS; DE-
SCRIBES THE LARGER AS THE INFANT MISSIS
SIPPI; A CRADLED HERCULES; DISCOVERS
THREE LAKES; CONFUSION OF LOCATION; IDEAS
AS TO THE SOURCE OF A RIVER.
During his lifetim(,', Jt'an N. Nicollet was a very import-
ant factor in discoveries touching the soui'ce of the Missis
sippi. He was born of ])oor parentage at Clauses. Savoy,
in 1790, and was in his youth a musician. Apprenticed to a
watchmaker, he remained with him until 1808, when he re-
moved to Cambray. where he subsisted upon the emoluments
of his occupation. i>r()secuting at the same time studies in
mathemathics. He afterwards appears as an instructor in
mathematics in his native town, pursuing studies in Latin
and the languages. His natural abilities and ambHion soon
guided him to the opportunities of higher courses and he
removed to Paris, where he was admitted to the senior class
of L'Ecole Normale, soon succeeding to a professorship in
the college of Louis Le Grand. Jud.'.'ing from the results
156 THK MISHISSIPIM KIVEU AND ITS BOUULVil.
which followed, he must certainly hiivc ))OHNesKed natural
ability to an extraordinary extent. Publications by hini
upon inathciiuitical deductions as to the ])robabl«> duration
of human life, upon probabilities, and one upon assurances,
soon placed him wlu'rc he commanded the respect of finan-
ciers and admitted him lo the hijjrlier circles of society, His
astrononruuil studies, afterwards so conspicuously employed
in the Mississippi valley, commenced in 181S), and he soon
gained a reputation by his observations and the computa-
tion of the parabolic elements of several comets, one of
which he discovered, which placed him in an honorable
position in the *• Bur«?au des Longitudes.'" He now entered
upon a most successful career, rajjiilly advancing iti fame,
knowledge and financial success. As a natural conse-
quence, in cases of great opportunities, the goal of ambi-
tion is not always easily reached and the? ambition of Nicol-
let, to become wealthy as well as learned, proved disas-
trous. Acting as the financial agent of trusting friends, he
met with losses. Admiring associates became implacable
enen?ies, and he was rejected as an applicant for member-
ship in the Academy of Sciences, probably on the views
entertained by Dominiciue Francois Arago, the perpetual
Secretary. With financial ruin and disaster as his unwel-
come companions, Nicollet left France in 1831', an exile,
never to return. Landing u})on the shores of America,
with only the learning of a polished scientist and astrono-
mer, an entire stranger, he may have keenly contemplated
his position, but ho became the master of his circumstances
and by the force of character and the manliness of a refined
nature, he rose above the difficulties of his position and
imprinted upon American geography during but a brief
NICOLLKT'S SCIKNTIFU: EXPLOKATIONS. 157
period, a nain«* tluit will «'iKlurt» tii«' ravap's of tiiiw; iu>t,
liowovor, without cxposun»s and hardships tliat rosulted in
an oarly and iintiraoly doiuiso.
Ho visited tlie Allevrhany run^e, tli»; (iult' of Mexico, as-
cended the Ked, Arkansas and Missouri rivers, for purpos(>s
of astronomical and j^oojjraphic observations, and elected to
construct a topojjraphical map of the sources of the Mississ
Ippi and North Red river, from act\ial astronomical observa-
tions and surveys in the then remote Northwest. Thisardu
ous labor was ])erformed in the ti«*ld durinpr the years 1H36-7.
Retirin<? to Haltimf)r«' for rest and recuperation, the atten-
tion of the government of the United States was called to
his valuable and scientific labors, and by invitation, he ac-
cepted the patrona»^e of his adopted country, in the final
construction of his map, with Lieut. John C. Fremont »s a
detailed assistant. He continued in the active service of the
government, but before the completion of his eU^gantly
written report, exhausted by exposures, blighted by the
failure to attain his early and most honorable ambition, in
the year 1843, he died, respected by every American who
enjoyed the honor of his acquaintaince.
That portion of Mr. Nicollefs labors having reference to.
and especially connected with the .source of the Mississippi,
are considered at length.
He was at Port Snolling when he decided to visit the
Itasca Basin. On the 26th of July, 1830, he bivouacked at
the Falls of St. Anthony, where he was robbed by Sioux
Indians of his canoes and provisions. Major Taliaferro, the
Indian agent at the fort, supplemented his losses that he
might continue his voyage. His party consisted of himself,
a Frenchman named Desire Fronchet and a number of mixed
ITlH 'rill'. MISSISSIIMM ItlVKIt AN'I) ITS SOIJU(!K.
bloods and Ojihvvay Indiiuis. On IIk- 1".M|i liis llotilla of
«;arjo«'S ladt-n wiili Ins siippli<'s. ai'rns. atiuiiurnt'.ou, bowK and
arrows, '•sticks \,o nolttli down tin- days and tin- <diroiiomot<!r
1o nioasiin'titrn'," was last, iisc-cnditi','' the ! Mississippi abovotiin
falls. Il<r not(!d particiilai'ly tin; cliaractiM' of tin? country
to tlic uioutli ol iIkMJcow Wi (!«.(• river, pass<!d up th«' iatt^M*
to th«j mouth of (iull rivci-, which he named from theOjih-
way word •(iayashU;'" tlmnce up its channel and portaj^inj^
to Pine river, h(! reac,h(!d the Little lioy, and thenco by
<;anoes he arrived at Le<!ch lake, where he remaitufd for a
we<jk"s obs(!rvation. Franc-is lirun«d, was his '^wda, whom
he doscrilxis as a man over six feet in hei«<'ht, a <^iatit in
strength and a natuial <^e(j;;i-apher. At licc'ch lake In; m<!t
much displeasure from the Indians in tin; absonco of pres-
ents to j^ivo them, and his record indicat<;s that he consid-
ered his life imperiled, from which he was r<!scued by th(;
kindly oltices of liev. W.'V. lioutwell, the missionary, thon
residing at th;i,t |)oint.
He pro<;eode(i from T-<(!Cch lako with Messrs. Fronchet and
hrunr't and a ('hippcswa Indian named Ke«^-wed-/is-sa^', ' who
was well ac(|uaitd,<Ml with the lt,as(!a i-e«.fion, calling it h\s
hunting j^ronnd. The i)arty under th<!;^uidance of K<!j;-w<jd-
/is sa^ C(iay j^w(^d-o say) njaclmd Kabekona lake, thence
portaged to lia Place riv(!r, or S(;hoolcraft's branch of the
Mississippi,'^ a.scciudin^ the; sam<; t,o Assawa lako and a^ain
[)orta^(jd about six mihis to lta.s(;a lake, across what is now
kncnvn as th<! "Bi^ liurnin*^."'' a t(;rrit/)ry t,o tho <!astward
1. (iitv-HWf<l-n-Miiy , !iii){U<'l»<'<l. 'rry Iri'^-lri-witUi. iTfiiiii-'inHly ;;l \ in In .Nli'ullil '-.
II- purl, ■Kfa-Wttd-zls-MiiK.
2. Yellow Head river.
<■{. A Mtrlpof t^Trllory, I'liiiitiKttii'lnir OK till' riiirlli<-iiKi hIiom- iiF Muiy liiUr mid
i:\t*;n(Htiii iioct hi'ii.stcrly for nciny mill's, narrow .il ll.h ciitnniriK'i'ini'iil, LIh'mi'i;
wIdeiiliiK. '•
NM'OIJ.K'I'S SCIIlN'ni'M; KXI'LOJtATlONS. I.'jU
fn)m TtuH<"a, <l«nu(l«'(l of tirnbiM- by tin-. Nic()ll<!t'K iiistni-
iiKmtK w<5r«f Ji H<!Xl,ant,, inwotm^U't', Un'rnunimU^r, c:lirf)notii<'
l«'r, f()rn|)Jiss, urtiticiul h< rizoii, lapo-liiMf, c'U;. Ii«'a<rhiii^
Itasca lake, h«f aKcortaincid Iho nlovationH of Ih*; siicfjw,*! Ut
l><! oiiM Inmdn'd and tw(irit,y ftmi ii\)(>v<i ih<! lake* Viy barorno-
1 r-ical (>l)s«Tvalion, and pro«'«M'd«!d to Sohoolci'aft island
wluiH! Im- catnpcd, (lis<tov«'rin;^ thu tla^-Ktall" slationod by
S(!hooh;rart, lour ytsars Ixd'on!, njiori which h«J <'r«;(^U!d his
artificial horizon pi-cparaton to locating his position.
His rccoi'd of ((bscrvaiioiis shows the, f(jllowiii^:
•'Itasca lake, Schoolcraft island. Kstiinattid distance by
wator from the (iulf of lVl<!xi(t(*, 2,H*.>0 niiUis. Elevation
above the sea, l.Ti?.") IViet. North Latitude, 47^ UJ' ;».'>";
Lon;![itude, w(!Ht from (ireonwi(;h, ().' L"."
He then pro<;eeded under tVi<! guidance; of K<t^ wed-zis su^'
to explore \\n'. atlliients of Itasca lake. He found five
cre(»ks that f!r)w<!d into it, formed by innumerable streaml«»LK
oo/in^ from tlie clay beds at, the Ijasos of the liills, known
by the name "Ilaidfuirs t/.cN Tirrrs," (UcMf^hts of I^and. )
covered by thick forests foi-mitiitf a semi-circular r(;j^ion south
of Itasca, all of th<!S(j streamlets havinj^ V>o;<'*^y bottoms.
Ho says: "The wat«3rs su[)plied by the north Hank of thes«?
heij^htsof land, still «)n thie south side of Itasca lake, ;?ive
orij^in to th(! five cn^eks of which I Iiave spoken ahov(?.
Thes<! are tlic; waters which I c(jnside)- to Ix; the utmost
sources of the Mississi)>pi."
He visited all of the tiv<!(;re<jks m(!ntioned, oiw, (mtyei'ln^ the
east bay or arm of the lake, the four others into th(! west arm.
Amon^ th(i latt«jr, he found, one remarkable above all the
others its courst; longer and its watei-s more abundant —
1 (Jiiy-tfWftI <i-Hu.y <ir TrytriK-1;<i-wiill\.
160 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
and in obedience to a ofeographical rule "that the sources of
a river are those which are most distant from the mouth."
made the following declaration in his report: "This creek
is truly the infant Mississippi; all others below, its feeders
and tributaries."
August 29th, 1836, he explored this principal creek. It
was found to be 1.') to 20 feet wide and from 2 to 3 feet in
depth. He stemmed its brisk current until fallen trees
prevented the passage of his canoe, passed southward on
foot at the brow of the hills keeping in sight of the creek,
descending into the valley (Nicollet valley) and found num
erous streams oozing from the bases of the hills. He found
that the waters united at a short distance from the hills
whence they originated, forming a small lake (Nicollet's
Upper lake) from which he saw the Mississippi flowing
with a breadth of a foot and one half and one foot in depth.
This stream uniting with others, forms another, minor
lake from which issues Nicollet's memorable stream the
"Cradled Her ules," forming sand bars, transporting the
branches of trees, widening, of higher temperature, sub-
siding into another small lake, and trying its consequence
upon an additional mile or two, it empties into Itasca lake,
the principal reservoir of all the sources to which it owes
all its subsequent majesty.
The above, while not quotations, are almost the identical
words used by Mr. Nicollet. He considered the east branch
of the main river (Yellow Head) quite as long as the main
stream, but inasmuch as its waters were less abundant, it
could not be considered the main stream. He modestly
awards to Mr. Schoolcraft the honors of a first discovery ;
claiming only for himself a completion of the work neces-
^
^
EXTRACT FROM TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP OF THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI AND
NORTH RED RIVER, FROM ACTUAL ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AND SURVEYS
IN 1836 AND 1837, T»Y J. N. NICOLLET.
NICOLLET'S SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATIONS. 161
sary for a more perfect knowled«;e of tlie sourre. aided by
the use of astronomical iastruments along the entire course
of the river.
He regarded Beltrami's claims as deserving a critical
review and a severe refutation. Ho found the outlet of
Itasca lake to be sixteen feet wide fourteen inches deep,
current swift, water transparent, and, after having devoted
three days and portions of the nights in explorations and
astronomical observations, with his canoes and guides, he
passed down the main river to Cass lake, and thence re-
turned to Leech lake, where he remained some time with
Rev. W. T Boutwell, as a guest. He then passed down the
Leech lake river and the Mississippi, accompanied by a
number of Ojibway Indians, to Fort Snelling, Thus ended
the explorations of Nicollet at the source. From Gen. H.
H. Sibley and Rev. W. T. Boutwell, who were Mr. Nicollet's
personal friends, much has been learned of his modest
virtues as a man, scientist and scholar. He rose above his
misfortunes and inscribed upon the pages of the geography
of his adopted country, an enviable reputation and name,
which will forever be known and quoted in the physical
geography of the comrr on wealth of Minnesota, constructed
from the territory with which he so closely allied his name.
Of his personal peculiarities but little need be said. His
patience and perseverance overcame almost insurmountable
obstacles. Of slight physical demeanor, he could not with-
stand the ravages of exposure, and his early demise fol-
lowed; a resultant expectation ' * himself as well as by the
friends who often admonished him without success.
He contemplated the publication of extensive observations
-11
162 THK MISSISSIIMM HIVKK AM) ITS SOURCK.
concei-ning the valloy <>f the Mississippi, but life was too
short to permit of the accomplishment of his designs. A
l)ortion of his ma[) and a copy, of the only portrait of Mr.
Nicollet to be found in America, taken from a painting upon
ivory, are r<'produced.
Many would award to Mi-. Nicollet the honor of a first dis-
covery of the true source, but he can hardly be credited
with this distinction in justice to the memory of tho.se who
preceded him at the Itasca Basin. That he pointed out and
accurately described the principal affluent of Itasca lake,
there is no doubt whatever, nor can there be any doubt that
he visited Elk lake and laid the same down on his map as a
bay to Itasca, connected by a wide, short and sluggish
channel, which he denominated an affluent. The waters of
Itasca lake have, since Nicollet's visit, receded to some
extent and its surface is accordingly lowered, separating
itself from Elk lake, leaving it as waters gathered at one
side. A particular inspection of that portion of Nicollet's
map will admit of no other view.
The discovery of three small lakes by Mr. Nicollet, up
the channel of the main tributary, so graphically de
scribed by him. and the manner in which he located them
upon his map, without careful courses and measurements,
has misled observers of the locality as to his three lakes.
Mr. Hopew^ell Clarke was led to presume that his third
lake was a small body of water (now a dry bed) to the
eastward of his middle lake, while the casual examina-
tion of 1888,1 in the confusion of location in which Mr.
Nicollet placed these three bodies of water, indicated
that the third lake up the tributary, did not exist, and
1 See subdivision Twenty-sixth.
NICOLLET'S SCIENTIFIC EXPLOIiATlONS. 163
a belief accordingly was publicly expressed. No one
question htis been more puzzling thin llie id Mitity of
Nicollet's third lake.' and after an exhaustive} consider-
ation of the (luestion. it is believed that the underground
channel, now distinctly d<ifined between Nicollet's upper
and middle lakes possibly might have been, in 1H3G. a
surface channel, and. accordingly, a declai'cd determina-
tion u])on the question of the three lakes has been made
Avith much doubt ;- not. however, without considerable
study and thought upon a mooted question, insufficiently
and hastily considered by Mr. Clarke in 1880, and the
parties to the casual examination of I'-iBB.
1 ThiTf is ii |)n)l)abillty tliiit Mr. Nicollot In piissltiji up tlio vaUcy Jiiul atTliUMit
discovered by liim, bcoiiiiio bewildered in tlio t lilekels of liie iDealily. which pre-
cluded the possil)illty of bi-i I'orreclly dellneat iiij: the lopoirrapiiy of the spot. It.
is absolutely impossible to certainly and accurately trace his steps after lie left his
canoe and passed aloii'4 the brow of the bills, be iii^ careful to remain within sl^ht of
the stream, that he mi;iht not become lost. It is possible, since it Iscertain that he
passed up tin; valley on the east bank of the stream, that he only saw two lakes,
for the peculiarities of the txjp'juraphy there. In uassiuii up the valley on the brow
of tln! hills on the etmt side of the stream, lirin^rs tht' middle lake- in sitrht first, and
continuinj;, the lower lal<e conii's in si^'ht. thence passiiij.' up t lie streatii the middle
lake fl(/(n»i cniiics tothe ficw. Query: May It not have been that .siciillet, passinir
the middle lake /irxf. reacliin^ the lower lake serimd. and then a^rain a'riN in;? at the
middle lake, may have made the mistake of (lcscril)lnK the two lakes axlhrce, liav-
ing arrived in sljjht of the middle hiku a necoiid time/ Such a view is forced upon
the reader of his report, in the lifiht of a survey in detail, of Nicollcfs lower and
middle lakes; especially so, since it is known that the waters, in abundance,
ooze from the base of the hill Immediately above Xi(!ollet's midd'.e lake, and unit-
inj; form astreani of continued surface llowa^e to Itasca lake. It is very doubtful
if Nicollet ever saw the pool of water which has been ileslirniite.l as his third lake,
for purposes of correct geojiraphical delinealiou. It, liowever, i* the only pathway
out of a dileDimu at this time.
St. !*.\ui,. Minn.. Dec. 18th, 1880.
2 After due deliberation, and with a copy of Nicollet's original map of the sources
of the Mississippi and North Red river before us. we conclude that the three lakes
noted by Nicollet on the principal alHuent to Lake Itasca, as shown by his said
niap. are the two lakes in the southeast (luarter of section 'Zl, and the small lake in
the southwest corner of section 22, township 143, range Itti.
Signed: HOPEWELL CLARKE,
J. v. BROWER.
164 THE MISSISSIPFM UIVEH AND ITS SOUliCE.
In honor of Mr. Nicollet, have been named the following:
The principal affluent to Itasca lake, discovered by Nic-
let in 1836— Nicollet's Infant Mississippi ;
The first lake up this stream — Nicollet's lower lake ;
The second lake — Nicollet's middle lake ;
The third lake — Nicollet's upper lake ;
The valley there situated — Nicollet's valley ;
The principal springs— Nicollet's springs;
The height of land — Nicollet heights.
There was erected at the summit of Morrison hill by
the I. B. T. & Co. expedition of 1886. a wooden slab,
engraved to the memory of Nicollet, as the discoverer
of the source of the Mississippi in 1836. This slab, nailed to
a cedar post, is in a perfect state of preservation, and upon
its margin has been written many names of visitors to that
most sightly spot.
But little more need be said of Nicollet's visit and dis-
coveries. His conclusion that the waters supplied by the
north &a,nkoi the Hauteurs des Terre, south of Itasca lake,
gives origin to the creeks found there, and that those
waters constitute the utmost sources of the Mississippi,
is eminently a correct one, and regret may well be expressed
that he failed to reach and make known the location of the
large body of water then and now existing near the summit
of that north Hank, which supplies that never ending per-
ennial flow found in Nicollet's "Infant Mississippi." Had
he done so, no uncertainty as to the true origin of the
Mississippi river would have been possible.
He did not know of or visit numerous lakes and streams
immediately above and beyond the waters which he found
oozing from the base of the hills, nor is it believed
NICOLLET'S SCIEXTIKIC EXI'LOUATIOXS. 165
that ho saw or knew of Howard and Dom a ray crooks.' aiul
likewise ho failed to note the existence of th.' Mississippi
springs.
lTl.,.s,.two,„.r,.„..iul.T..,.k.s (l„M,.i u„p,.ar..., M.-ollrf, ,|,u,.,. ,.m.I i... ri-f.T.-...-..
to thfrii isiiiudflu hlH report. "nr. m..
Srii-DIVlSlOX F(KI{TKKXTIl.
THE "DOLLY VARDEN • EXPEDITKJX TO ITASfA
LAKE; .IL'LIl'S CHAMBERS VISITS ELK LAKE
AND DECLARES IT THE SOURCE OF THE MIS-
SISSIPPI ; OBSKRVATIONS AND EXPLORATIONS
BY A REPRESENTATIVE OF THE NEW YORK
HERALD.
Representing' the New York Ilfrnlil, Mr. .Julius Chaml>ers.
in 1^^72. made a canoe voyajre to Itasca lake, thence down
the Mississip])! river to the Gull" of Mexico. His published
writinj^s constitute contributions to the columns of the
paper lie represented.
From an examination of these wi'itin«;s. it ajjpears that he
contemplated a canoe voyajfo from th(» very si)rint?s near
Itasca lake to the mouth of the river at the Gulf. He
reached Oak Lake Station, four miles west of Detroit, on the
Northern Pacitic railway. May iilst, 1^72. with his canoe
which ho had christened "Dolly Varden." Overland, he
reached White Earth, and by a series of porta|?es reached
Itasca lake, via Wild Rice river and hikes, and encamped
upon Schoolcraft island, whore he took observations for his
position with "ships instruments" and chronometer with the
following result:
Latitude 47^ 12' M".
Longitude, 95^ 2' 1".
^Ji(/cu4 (/lu>ccoO^^
••i»)i,i,v vardkn' i:.\im:i)i tidn, I«i7
SatiHtiod that all foniu'i' <»x])l'*rors liad stopped short of
the true 8ourc;«\ ho determined to tiuike a thoroujfh oxamiiia-
tlon of th«' vicinity. L«»a\'inAf Schooli ra*"t islaiul. in his
cano«' he coasted the east arm. noted snrroundinj^s and
reached the mouth of the creeic at the south end of the arm.
which he followe,d about fifteen hundred feet to a hill on one
side and a meadow on the other, concluding that the str<»am
could not be perennial in c-haracter. and that there were no
lalces up the stream. Keturninj; - the island, he continued
a search for inlets, and at a southwestern anjjle of th<i west
arm, a small inlet was s6en about four feet in de))th. and
scarcely more in width, which the channel had cut throu<rh
the thick turf. I*ushin;? his canoe throuprh this channel,
reachin*? shallow water, dra^fjrin^' his cano<! over sticks and
lo^s, at the end of "about one-third of a mile." ho reached
a small round lake. Crossin'C to the opposit*' shore, he
found a floating bo<; with no creeks entering the lake. An
Indian had told him that the Red river and the Mississippi
took their rise from the same bog ^ whicli 1h> doubtless be-
lieved to be the bog he had then reached. He says. "Hero
then is fhr source of the longest river in the world, in a small
lake, scarcely one quarter of a mile in diameter, in the
midst of a floating bog. the fountains which give birth to
the Missis.sippi. The greatest depth of the lake was found
to be only twelve feet."
Naming the lake "Dolly Varden," after his canoe, he
returned to Itasca lake and continued a .search for other
1 Thelwir referred to is not within tlieltascii Uasiii. It is at tlu' Iicad of Division
cre»'l{ wliioli coiiics ir> from the west, two niili-s downtlie Mississippi, nortli of
Itiisea liiiif. Tills c'rtcl< takes its rise at the suraiuit of the llauieiirs des Terre,
west of llie great basin of the Mississippi. Waters at that suiiiiiiit also flow we>t-
ward to tin: North Ued river.
168
THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
inlets, finding but one small ouo on the west shore. Record-
ing the declaration that there was but one perennial stream
entering Itasca lake — that which connected it with "Dolly
Varden" lake — he reached his camp at sunset, June 9th,
187:2, and the next day proceeded upon his successful canoe
voyage down the Mississippi. It is certain that Mr. Cham-
SKETCH MAP
OF THE
ITASCA LAliE REGION
J\xliusi Cli.'unbej':
1372.
"UOLLY VARDEN" EXPEDITION. 169
bers visited Elk lake, findin^j: his way to that point up. the
Chambers creek ^ of the present time. The deepest sound-
ing of but twelve feet, the tamarac swamp where stands
Morrison hill, and other apparent errors upon Mr. Cham-
ber's map, are explained by the haste with which lie con-
ducted his explorations.
Mr. Chambers' absence in Europe during the better part
of 1889. and a disinclination to respond to a request for man-
uscript discribing his visit to Itasci;. ])laces the information
derived, upon the basis of an examination of his letters to
the Herald written in 1872. -
When Mr. Chambers concluded that there were no lakes
to the southward from the end of the east arm. he was then
within seven hundred feet of one of the most picturesque
lakes'* within the basin, concealed from his view by a low
range of hills. As to the floating bog discovered by him. it
is probable heavy rain storms, then prevalent, were decept-
ive to some extent, in connection with an examination of but
one day's duration.
It would api)ear that Mr. Chambers either did not visit
Nicollet's Infant river, or visiting it, failed to make a care-
ful examination into the question of its importance. Upon
reaching Elk lake he found it much larger than he at first
supposed. M. Nicollet saw the same stream and lake, and
gave it no importance, whilst, vice versa, Mr. Chambers
failed to award due recognition to Nicollet's discovery.
1 The ereoU connecting Elk lake with Ita^oii hike, one tlioiisati(i, one hundred
feet in lonirth, has been recently clianj,'ed in name from Elk creek to Chambers
creek, in recofrultion of Its discoverer. This change still leaves an Elk creek flow-
inji into the southwest angle of Elk lake.
2 These letters were written t-o the Herald durinif his sojourn at Itasca lake.
:j Mary lake.
170 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AXl) ITS SOUliCK,
Such was the difference in llie observation of the two exjjlor-
ers, that, althoui^h Cliambers creek was sluggish and short in
1836, 11 1 lad become somewha* longer in 187:^, by the invincible
process of nature, whereby the surface of the water in Itasca
lake receded from its former and higher ele\ ation.
Si:B-T)IVIsrO\ FFFTEEXTTf.
OFFICIAL ACTION BY THE AUTHORITIES OF THE
LAND DEPARTMENT OF THE UNITED STATES:
HOW ELK LAKE WAS FINALLY NAMED; OFFI-
CIAL PLATS CERTIFIED AND APPROVED.
As Surveyor General for
the District of Minnesota,
representing in an official
capacity the United States
government, James H.Baker
assumed the duties of his
office May 1st, lb75, and by
limitation, retired in Apj-il,
1879.
The Surveyor General,
among other official require-
ments, is especially em-
powered by statute, and the
regulations of the Interior
Department of the United
States government, to con-
GEN. J. H. BAKER. tract for the official sur-
veys of the public domain within the limits of his district.
During General Baker's term of office, Le directed the
172 THE MISSISS'.IM'I KIVEii AND ITS SOUHCE.
survey of Townships 14l\ 141} and 144. Uan^e 36, west of the
5th principal meridian, placing the public contract there-
for to the credit of Edwin S. Hall, in 187.'). No special or
particular instructions were jriven relative to the meander
of Itasca lake or the examination of the Itasca Basin,
situated in the townships named, further or to any greater
extent than were the requirements concerning the public sur-
vey of any other Government townships. Upon the comple-
tion of the survey' by Mr. Hall, the official plats were drawn
at 'General Baker's office at St. Paul. Minn., and at that time,
upon enquiry as to the names of lakes within each township,
there were placed upon the official plat the names "Lake
Itasca" and "Elk lake,"' pursuant to a requirement con-
tained in the general instructions of the Interior Depart-
ment, which provides that the names of lakes upon the
official plats, should be the same as they had been desig-
nated previous to the public survey.
The original Elk lake, having been changed in name by
Mr. Schoolcraft to "Itasca." which action had received due
recognition by the authorities of the government. Gen.
Baker judiciously and very properly adopted the tradition-
ary name of " Elk lake " for the body of water gathered at
the side of the west arm of Itasca lake, and under his
instructions the name was extended upon the official plats,
and certified by him February 3rd, 1876. He then submitted
these plats to the Commissioner of the General Land office
at Washington, who duly approved the same. Of the three
plats for each of said Townships, one is on tile at the
General Land Office, one at the Surveyor General's Office
at St. Paul. Minn., and one at the local Land Office, then
at Detroit, Minn,, now at Crookston. Thus before the end
THE OFFICIAL PLAT, (REDUCED SCALE) 1876.
OFFICIAL ACTION OP THE AUTHOKITIKS. 173
of the first half of the year 1876, the official ro(iuirements
of the public survey of the Itasca Basin had been com
pleted. Then followed the selection of swamp lands in
favor of the State of Minnesota, pursuant to Con*?ressional
enactment, the withdrawal of odd sections subject to the
grant of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, forty
miles north of its definite location, which extended to within
a short distance from Schoolcraft Island, leaving the
balance open to settlement, excepting sections 16 and 36,
reserved for purposes of public instruction. For more than
fifteen years, the local land oftice has held the public lands
in those townships subject to disposal upon the applica-
tion of qualified preemptors, homestead claimants and
beneficiaries under the Indian treaties and other statutory
privileges permitting the selection of public lands. Thus,
the casual observer may readily understand the official
recognition of EIk lake by the government of the United
States, its definite location and meander and in 1875, the
erection of official corners upon its shores in the same year,
which are still intact and plainly visible, and the approval
of the official plats in 1876. Thus ended the official acts of
the Government Survey.
General Baker in another capacity was connected with
the question as to the true source of the Mississippi in 1887,
which will be adverted to in the consideration of action
taken by the Minnesota Historical Society in another por-
tion of this report.
S! I',-I)IV1SI0X SIXTKKXTII.
EDWIN S. HALLS GOVKRNMEXT SURVEY ; HIS
PARTY REACH THE ITASCA HASIN; MEANDER
OF ELK .AND ITASCA LAKES; OFFICIAL COR-
NERS AND LAND MARKS.
Mr. Edwin S. Hall, who uKid«' tlio official survey, for the
government of the
United States, for
Townships 142,143 and
144, Range HO, West of
the Fifth I'rincipal
Meridian, in the yeai'
187.'), within \v h i eh
Townships the Ita.sca
Basin is situated, was
award(»d a public con
tract, by the authori-
ties of the government,
to officially survey the
Townships hereinbe-
fore described. Actual
service in the field as a
surveyor of public
3IB. Ei>wiN s. HALL. lauds, endowcd with
EDWIX S. HALLS COVKUNMKXT SUUVKY. 17.')
fjualities of jiid^iiuMit and (l«'cisk>u. madcth*' appoiutiiuMil of
Mr. Hull a good one He dispatched his su])j)li«'s and camping
outfit overhind by ox teams in ih(» month of Sept<^mber.
By stage, Mr. Hall joined his teams near liiaincid. on tlio
Northern Pacific Railroad. Crossing the Mississii)])! river,
the Hall party proceeded with their ox teams on the Leech
lake road to Fourteen Mile Creelc. thence on thf White
Earth road to Sh«?ll Prairie, where was found a standard
parallel line— the base of their operations.
Di.scovering an intermediate deficiency of six miles in
established lines, Mr. Hall returned to St. Paul and had
inserted in his contract, power to establish the townsliip
line from th<! southeast corner of Township 1 M. Range 'iHu
to the southeast corner of Township 142. Range ;!t). where
his work commenced. The task of pressing his way north-
ward with his teams through a dens(» ' ilderness. was no
light one. He maintained his northerly direction until he
Reached Stony Ridge and the Little Man Trap lake, where
he commenced the construction of a rough road in a north-
westerly direction towards the centre of the tier of town-
ships ho surveyed. The direction taken brought him
immediately to the southern rim of the Itasca Basin, four
miles south of tht south end of the west arm of Itasca.
Passing around the interesting lakes at the summit of the
hills, to which his party are the first known white visitors,
he encamped on the north shore of the most southerly lake,
opposite the island \ and continued the establishment of
the township and section lines and sectional and meander
corners. Continuing the construction of his road to the
northward, he again encamped with his party on the north
1. Brower Island In Ilerniiado do Soto lake.
17t5 TMK MrSSISSFIM-r lUVKK AM) ITS SOUUCK
side of • Spring brook " which h«> nainoU by a scribing, still
visible iu»ar thf contro of section 27, on the l)ank of the
creek. The t^ndeavoi- to construct a road throu«rh the
swami)s oi Nicollet valley failed, but the sijfns of his chop-
pin^s are still visible there. He continued his road due north
and ent^amped on Morri.son hill fr< m which point the survey
was continued by supplying; his force in the tield throuf?hth«»
instrumentality of •• packers." Mr. Hall's several camps
are still plainly to be seen, and his road, then made, has
become < iic of the lii<;hways of the locality. The rule of
the governmeui which obtains in locating its official lines
by sections rey^ardless of and i^norin^ interior topoj^raphy.
paying a niggardly stipend for valuable, and what ought,
by all means, to be a correct work, placed Mr. Hall in the
same category of all other government surveyors of the
public domain, and he conscientiously and honestly made a
regulation gov«n-nment survey much better than the average
of his time, and after the lapse of fourteen years, all the
official corners and lines are plainly visible and easily found.
These several lines and official corners, recognized as of
binding and official force, have been found to be a very
convenient recpiisite in the location of the Itasca State Park.
At Mr. Hails first camp within the basin on the north
shore of Hernando de Soto lake, was found the following
scribing:.—
••Ed Halls Lost Explorers.
Hazleton.
Ed. Hall's Camp,
October 9th, 1875."
Had Mr. Hall received instructions fiom liis superiors at
EDWIN S. HALL'S (JOVKKNMKNT SUKVKY. 177
Washington to inuki' ut tlu' t'XjM'ns«» ot lln' ^overninont an
accurate hydro^raphic and topographic survey of the
source of the Mississiipj)i. personal enterprise for jfeo-
graphic facts would not now be necessary.
In the days of Hails survey, the overpowering influence
was a i^rand rush for the possession of pine timber for
speculative purposes, and that intiuence, widespread and
powerful, invisibly controlled the surveys of the public
domain in the Northwest, and notwithstanding the fact that
the Itasca townships contain ma/Lrniticent tracts of pine
timber, not an acre of value remains the property of the
United States, all that portion of value, not included in the
odd section grant to the Northern Facitic Railroad or the
swamp grants of Minnesota, having passed to private
ownership for speculative purposes. In the days of 187.'
and subsequently, that })ortion of Minnesota was overrun
with timber inspectors, commonly called 'Cruisers," whose
sole and only object was the selection and acquirement of
all the valuable timber lands of the region they inspected,
for themselves and their employers, and it is safe to say
that at the end of the winter of 1880. every tract of timber
within the Itasca Basin had been examined by at least half
a dozen •• Cruisers," oblivious to every fact connected with
the source of the Mississippi.
Many land marks and traces remain of the Hall survey,
old rafts and paddles at the crossing of lakes; the highway
now so useful, subsequently more extensively opened by
Henry Bohall and Peter C. Sweeney, from which it has
often been erroneously designated as the "Sweeney Road."
It appears beyond doubt that when Mr. Hall descended
-12
178 THK MISSISSIIM'I mVKU AND ITS SOURCE.
into thf valleys of th«» basin with his purty. he hud but th«»
one purpose in his mind —that of tlio ordinary government
survey. - comph'ted the same as fast us possible, and returned
from the wilderness to receive but a stipend for an impoi"
tant public survey of an liistorical locality, bedded in the
depth of the wilderness, which for nearly three hundred
years was unknown to the governments which exercised the
right of owuersliip by discovery, purchase or cession.
SUIM)rVISlOX SFVKXTEKXTH.
THE ROH ROY EXPEDITION; A. H. SIEGFRIED AND
COMPANIONS REACH ITASCA LAKE; THEY VISIT
ELK LAKE AND I^HOTOGRAPH IT; THE PARTY
DESIGNATE ELK LAKE THE HIGHEST TRIBU-
TARY TO THE MISSISSIPPI; WILLIAM MORRISON
DESIGNATED AS THE FIRST SEEN OF WHITE
MEN AT THE SOURCE.
The first of July. 1*^79. Mr. A. H. Siegfriod. r«>pr('Sontiug the
Louisville Courier- Journal,
accompanied by Mr. J. M.
Barnes, now of Georgetown,
and Mr. Lucien Wulsin of
Cincinnati, Ohio, projected
a visit to the Itasca Basin.
Leaving the Northern Paci-
fic railroad at Detroit, Minn.,
the party proceeded t o
White Earth, and made pre-
parations for their inland
journey to Itasca, and from
thence down the Mississip-
pi riv^er in canoes. Three
Rob Roy canoes, a store of
MK. A. 11. SIEOFUIED.
IbO THE MISSlSSIl'Pl UIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
provisions and camping material, a guide, interpreter, aiid
Indian "packers"' were provided for the journey. With
varying hardships, the party reached the banks of the river
several miles below Itasca lake, accomplishing portages
across the Hauteurs des Terre from Rice lake. Dismissing
their guide and * -packers," the party proceeded alone up
the river, discovering that they had reached the stream far
below the point promised by their guide, necessitating a
tedious amount of labor in propelling their canoes up the
rapids and over fallen trees and debris, through rushes and
across shallows, and it was not until after ten days of hard-
ships tkat thoy reached Itasca lake, and camped on School-
craft island. July 12th. They particularly examined the
lake, and searching for its principal affluent, passed up the
stream laid down by Nicollet, as the Infant Mississippi, until
their progress was impeded by fallen trees. Leaving their
canoes, and with aneroid barometer and photographic para-
phernalia, they crossed the hills to the shores of Elk lak<'
which they thought to be the "Highest tributary to the Mis-
sissippi." Taking a photographic view- of the place, they
returned to their canoes, sustaining the loss of their barom-
eter. Mr. Siegfried estimated the distance between Itasca
and Elk lakes to be about one-half of a mile, requiring his
party to make a tiresome walk in the heat of the day through
1. The use i)f tlie word ••piickers" is introduced in tliis work, only in such places
a.s the same is quoted. It means, in coniinoii parlanee. amonj: woodsmen and voy-
agcurs, the persons who carry, in packs upon theirslioulders, tlie provisions, etc.,
for the voyage; u.sually by a "packstrap" across the breast or forehead.
2. In a letter Mr. .T. M. Barnes, the photosirapiier of the party, says: "Am sorry
indeed, to say that tlie plate exjiosed for Elk lake was light .>;truck, and therefore
useless to print from." Mr. Siegfried states that the plate e.vposed for Elk lake
was ruined, in handling, before his party hud reached a point where the same
could be developed . A desire to reproduce this plate of Elk lake is, consequently,
necessarily abandoned .
THE ROB ROY EXPEDITION. 181
the dense timber, consuming thirty-live minutes of time.
Thus, it is seen, that they did not visit Morrison hill, where
the distance between the lakes is less than five hundred feet.
The trip was not projected with a view of <^eo«>:raphical dis-
covery, but simply as a recreative ••outing." the party con-
sidering the valuable work of Schoolcraft and Nicollet, in
that regard, as paramount, and sufficiently detinite to gainsay
the necessity of further exploration for geographic facts,
although they thought Elk lake to be the highest tributary.
Upon examination the mouth of Chambers creek, as it enters
Itasca, was found by this party to be struggling through
bogs. Awarding to William Morrison the honor of the
'•first seen of white men." in 1804. at the source, this party
of adventuresome explorers departed from Schoolcraft
island on the morning of July 15. 1879, to endure the hard-
ships and adventures of a canoe voyage down the Missis-
sippi to civilization. They designated their visit as "The
Rob Roy Expedition of 1879 " after the character of their
several canoes which they had named the ••Betsie D,"
" Hattie " and •' Kleiner B^ritz." The party were particu-
larly successful in all they had at first contemplated, disap-
pointed only, in the hardships they were compelled to
endure. The photograph of Elk lake, taken by this expe-
dition, was from a point at the west shore near the mouth
of the small stream now very appropriately named Siegfried
creek, in the absence of any other name recognized by
acknowledged authority. Siegfried creek is particularly
described in the consideration of the Elk lake locality.
81IMHVIS10X EK^HTEENTH.
GEOLOGIC AND BOTANIC EXAMINATION AT ITASCA
LAKE BY O. E. GARRISON; LOST AT THE LITTLE
MAN TRAP; HE REACHES ELK LAKE; PORTAGE
TO ITASCA; CAMP ON GARRISON POINT; ITASCA
LAKE COASTED.
June 28th, 1880, under the auspices of the 10th census of
the United States, Depart-
ment of Forestry, and
incidentally representing
the Geologic Survey of
Minnesota, under Profes-
sor N. H. Winchell. Mr.
O. E. Garrison of St.
Cloud, Minnesota.depart
ed from his home with
one assistant, for an ex-
tended tour to and beyond
Itasca lake, and down the
Mississippi. Detailed re-
ports of his examination
of that locality were made
which have become pub
lie documents. Mr. Gar
3111. O. E. CfARRISON.
-GEOLOGIC AND BOTANIC EXAMINATION. 183
rison, who for many years was a Government Surveyor
of the public lands in portions of the iioithern part of
Minnesota, was also during liis lifetime j)roticient as a civil
engineer, and pursued studies in botany and geology, and
he was admirably fitted to conduct the examination now under
consideration — hampered only by a want of breadth, caused
by almost total deafness.
Mr. Garrison passed down the Wing river from Verndale,
Minnesota, to the Crow Wing river. He passed up the last
named stream by canoe, variously noting geologic and
botanic examinations until on the 13th day of July, he
reached the neighborhood of the Little Man Trap lake, and
putting off in his canoe in search of a pc ,age from the north
end of that lake, he became bewildered in the coils of the
well named Little Man Trap, near the southern edge of the
Itasca Basin and seeking a return from his difficu'ty, Mr-
Garrison spent the following thirteen days in a circuitous
route in reaching the southern portion of the Basin, only
four miles to the northwestward from his camp of the
13th. Here Mr. Garrison entered iipon a most interesting
spot, the highest reservoir, the Ultimate Ba.sin of the Mis-
sissippi river; but intent upon reaching Itasca lake, he
seems not to have either considered or examined the im
portance of the locality he was visiting. Pushing by port-
ages through lakes, over hills and across ponds, he noted
down very accurately the route from the lakes at the top of
the hills to Whipple lake, to the west shore of Elk lake,
stranding his canoe in Chambers creek, between Elk and
Itasc d lakes, in the absence of a iufllcient depth of water to
permit of passage in his canoe. He reached the summit
of Morrison hill overlooking Itasca lake, July 30th, and by
184 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
portago. reached the lake, camping at the point opposite
the mouth of Chambers creek on the west shore of the west
arm. The following day, Mr. Garrison skirted the shores
of Itasca, examining the different kinds of timber, and
returning to camp, left the locality the next morning,
August 1st, for a conti mance of his voyage down the Mis
sissippi.
He places his record in two series, commencing his
second series, on the shore of Elk lake. His estimate of
the height of land south of the Greater Ultimate Reservoir,
and his subsequent notice of his visit to the beaver dam
with its running stream into Floating Moss lake, his port-
age across the hills to Elk lake, the climbing of the tree to
view the locality, and his conclusion that ' None of the hills
were nore than twenty or twenty five feet high," place him
in the category of a stranger in a strange land, for he had
already descended into the valley of the Basin moro than
one hundred and eighty feet in his advance toward Itasca
lake from the Heights of Land, less than three miles to the
southward from his camp on the west shore of Elk lake.
There is. however, let it be said to the credit of a faithful
servant of the government, a reasonable explanation of this
apparent error in regard to the height of the hills. Mr.
Garrison had reached the west shore of Elk lake from
Whipple lake by a descent of ninety- three feet, passing
through a heavy body of pine timber, many of the trees
standing more than one hundred feet in height, and in
endeavoring to view the locality at an elevation above the
surface, by ascending the tree, his view was obscured by
the height of the timber he had passed in reaching Elk
lake.
<iKOLOGIC AND BOTANIC KXAMFNATION. 185
Mr. Garrison's description of the outlet of Elk lake where
— "the water was low. and a few rods down from Elk lake,
the canoe stranded on the pebbly bottom of the brook "—
when he landed and portaged across to Itasca, is excellent
evidence of the condition of that stream on the 30th day of
July, 1880. Mr. Garrison's scientific research upon his
canoe voyage of sixty days and his reports thereon, contri-
bute valuable additions to sources of information on tlie
various topics he discusses.
The point upon which he camped has been named Garri
son point.
SIH-DIVISK^X MXKTEEXTH.
EARLY VISITORS TO ITASCA; CHARLES LANMAN'S
CLAIM; ALLAN MORRISON.
Among the minor early visitors to Itasca lake, or those
who claim to have visited
the locality, are Charles
Lanman, in 1846, the Rev.
Frederick Ayer and son^ in
1849; Mr. Bungo,a represen-
tative of the colored race, i n
1865, who originally claimed
that he was ' ' the first white
man who discovered Itasca
lak< he several employes
of Edwin S. Hall in 1875,
and several land cruisers
from 1875 to 1881.
Nothing has been found
to show that any of these
MR. CHAKLEs LANMAN. gentlemen performed any
1. Application was made to the Rev. Mr. Ayer's son for a detailed report of
his father's visit to Itasca, the reverend gentleman beint; long since deceased,
hut no answer caiiio. Application for this record being renewed though Mr. ,T. H.
Khodes, the following reply was received:
"Yours Ciiino in due time. I saw Mr. Ayer, who said th<'it lie "would look the
matter up. I delayed writing you, thinking that he would report tome. As so
much time has elapsed. I presume that he may have reported directly to you.
whieli 1 hope may be the case."
KAlir.V VISIT(11{S TO ITASCA. 1H7
special or particular service or inade any discoveries of
note, touching or in anywise affecting geographical infor-
mation at the Itasca Basin.
There seems to be a disposition on the part of early .set
tiers of Minnesota, to require some further light ' regarding
Mr. Lanmans visit to Itasca lake in li^4t'). As it does not
appear that he claims to have made any discoveries there,
information given by himself will probably be all that is
required.
It has been stated that his voyage was the ••outgrowth of
a wandering tour from the sources of the Mississippi to Ihe
waters of Lake Superior, performed in a craoe in the sum-
mer of 1H46. with a party of Ojibway Indians and piloted by
the Indian trader, Allan Morrison-.
"Knowing as Mr. Lanman did that his friend H. R.
Schoolcraft had long before explored the romantic region
as a discoverer, his own object was simply to describe what
he saw and heard from the standjioint of a landscape painter
and lover of the romantic in nature and frontier life."'
1. A i'iiinniunii"it inn fiom Mr. Luiiiiiiiil i- iiDtt'il:
•'Dear Sir: —
Ihavcyoui- letlci- of the l.")t li iii>t .. ;iiiil ;iin sorry that I c'iiiinot
seud you a niort' sati.ifiU'tory reply. I cannot at this late date prepare a nioTr
conipleto record about my visit to tiie headwaters of tlie Ml.ssissippi tlian tln'
one to be found in my •Summer in the \VildtrneKi< ' and tliat you will please renu'in-
ber, was written l)y a boy-tourist and landscape painter. As to the picture
whicli I enclose, it only represents a fellow wlio once siiot a raccoon within I tie
limltsof wluit is now tlie City of St. I'aul.
Very truly yours.
.1. V. Brower. Ksq.. Cliarles Lani.ian."
St. Paul, Minnesota
3 Mr. Morrison is credited with the st.;iteuient tliat'he could claim the discovery
of the source of the Mis.sisslppi, having visited the locality before Schoolcraft, but
after bis brother William, to whom he awarded the honor of a first discovery.
SL'IMMVISION T\\K\TIF/rir.
SOJOURN OF REV. J. A. GILFILLAN'S J»ARTY AT
ITASCA LAKE ; WHIPPLE LAKE NAMED ; FIRST
SERMON AT THE SOURCE; AN INTERESTING
EPISTLE.
In May. IhhI. in company with Mr. \V. W. Cook, now Pro-
fessor of Chemistry in the University of Vermont, the Rev.
J. A. Gilfillan. an Episcopal missionary stationed at White
Earth. Minnesota, made a ])ilgrimaf;Ct' to Itasca lake, not for
the purpose of discovery as it is now understood, but purely
one of curiosity to visit and see the Itasca Basin. Their
guide was an Ojibway Indian, named Sha-wun-uk-u-mig.
Leaving the old Red River trail, the party walked du«'
north several miles over a level prairie, entering upon a
difficult country, extending thence to Itasca, considerable to
the northward, across swamps, over hills, through forests
and tangled thickets, until they reached a small lake one
mile south of Nicollefs chain of lakes, naming the same.
Whippl*' lake— in honor of th*' Bishop of the Protestant
Episcopal Diocese of Minne.sota. This was the most impor-
tant action had by th(3 party, as it attached u name to thf>
locality that will endure to the end. Following their course
to Itasca lake, the party reached Elk lake and named the same
Lake Breck —not accepted by geographers and map makers.
Ki;V. J. A. CILFU.I.AN.
SO.K)UllN l)K UKV. .1. A. <;ILFILLAN'H I'AUTY. 18«
for tin* reason thiit its pro|H'r name is Elk lakr. so desig-
nated by tho U'j^ul authority «'lsewhero quoted, (An act of
the Leffislatur*' of Minnesota) and the action of the properly
constituted autliorities of th«' United States in its public
survey, who placed thf nam«« -Elk lake" on the official
map in IHTO.
The party pas'Sed ou to Itasca lake and for the tirst tim»»
in its history, i-olij^ious services were celebrated by a recita-
tion of the Creed with surplict' and stole, and a sermon from
"Then had thy peaw hwu as a river."
The party visited Morrison hill, saw traces of Edwin
Hall's wa^on road, (examined the locality in a casual way,
but did not see or visit the outlet at the north end of th«'
north arm. The party returned after a tedious and tiresome
trip to the place from wln»nce they came and resumed theii-
several avocations, spending; but one day in their march to
and from Itasca.
An article mostly upon r«'ligious topics was published de-
scriptive of this pilwrimaj<e, in the Minnesota MiHsionary for
the month of July, 18H1, (Vol. 4, No. 10, page 3). With the
exception of the name "Lake Whipple." the results of this
visit are not of sufficient importance to warrant further con-
sideration. The common acceptance of the name "Whipple"
as applied to the locality, places Mr. (Tiltillan in the list of
those who have from time to time, consti'ucted the geo-
graphical nomenclature of the Basin by piecemeal.
In this article referred to, the reverend gentleman erro-
neously distinguishes the small stream which tlows from the
north end of Whipple lake, as passing through Elk lake, on
its downward course. Such is not the case, as it passes
successively through Floating Moss lake, the unique Missis
:»()
TIIK MIHHISSMM'I UIVKH ANI» ITS KOUUrK.
sippi HprinK»*. tlx* uppfi-. middle iitid lower Nicollt't liikes,
and th(ui('«' \)y the principal rhaiitifl to tlif (iiill*.
Mr. (iiltilluti. ill !idditir>ii lo his pi'i'sotiul viHit t(i ItHscii
liiku, huH Im'uii uit important lactor. olherwiso, in coiiiicction
with tlu* invi'Ht.i^ation roiK-erninj; tin- . source of tne Missis
sippi.
A man of spotloHM fhftriwtor ai.d superior int4'Ui^en<ro, a
residence of twenty years ainon^' the (y|ibwn.y Indians
mal<es the information he has ^iveti, (■f)mini,'' from triliai
sources or <»therwise, toe the purposes of this report, the
most IruHtworthy and re|i;it)|»'.
SflMMVIsloX I'U'KNTV-FIKST.
THE (iLA/IKie FIASCO; AN INDIAN MAI' DIS
TOKTKl); IIINciKK AND HASTK: A FICTITIOUS
SOlJIiCK; I'l.ACIAinSM I'KliSONII-'IKD; HIS
CLAIMS SHOWN TO HK FoCNDKD ON l-'AJ.SK
STATKMKNTS; DISCKKDITKD HV (iKOCiKAIMIICAL
SOCIKTIKS AND THK CONOIilvS INTERNATIONAL.
In Uh' li^'hl of ill tlic historic ami ^'«'<)^rr!i|.hic irif(»rniii
tion, upon wliicli is |»n'«li«-ut««(l the fon'«,'oiri^' subdivisions,
which, it, is liopod. su('«!intly cornhini- ail lli.- nioi»' ruiitorijij
fucts conctcrninj,' (liscovcrii's from tln' tnoufh ol the Missis
si|)pi river to Itasca lake and its principal t riluitarics,
including' Kik lake and its crcoks. it is related in f|i». puh
lishcd writings of Mr. \V. (Jla/ii-r' that he renr,.,.|t,.,| t,|,.it
there was much uncertainty as to Mi.- true somcc of the
Mississippi river.
From Cleveland. Oiiio. in May IMHI, |,e ]>r(K-eeded to St
Paul. Minn«!sota, where he was joined by Cieorjfe (Jlazier,
his brother, and Mr. Barrett (Jhannin^' i'aine. of Indianapo
lis, Indiana, employed as a nc^wspaper ctjrrespondent and
othurwiso. At St. I'aid suppTuss w<!re procuri'd preparatory
1 Mr. fifonfiiC. IIiirllMII, Mliriirlilll of flu- Alnillciin (;.«(.«l;ii.lilciil S.Ml..|y. in
iiullK.illy Tor III)' still. tuiril, lliiil '• llii: tKiiii.' Wlllunl (;|.i/1.t i> mil. I.. Ii.' rmnul In
III. I'. S Army H.inNl.-r. m.r In Mi.' Ilsl i.f onir-.-rs nl Vujiiiil.'Cis, IWU-IhIw. in the
r<Miirtl-.i of tlif War Iti-imrtrii.jut, nor In Ihi! U. S. Niivy KcKlsU-r.
1J>1I THK MISSISSII'IM KIVKIt AND ITS HOURCE.
to a departure over the Northern Pacific Railway, for
Brainerd, Minn. At Brainerd the party prepared to pro-
ceed to the Itasca Basin by way of Leech lake, engaging an
overland conveyance. It is stated that on July 17th, 1881,
with an Indian guide he called Che-no-wa-ge-sic,. Mr. Glazier
and his companions departed from Leech lake in canoes for
the headwaters of the Mississippi, over the identical route
traversed by M. Nicollet, forty-five years previously, from
the latter lake to Schoolcraft island.
Preparatory to this canoe voyage, the Indian guide had
been i-equested to prepare maps of the country, in the
absence of copies of the official plats of the government,
which, as subsequent events indicate, were not known to
exist by the Glazier party. Following the lead of their
Ojibway guide, ^ depending upon him and his crude map as
a base of action, and seized with the idea that t^'ere was a
lake beyond Itasca, undiscovered and unknown, the party
left Leech lake in three birch bark canoes, and by a series
of portages, "in blissful ignorance of what a portage really
'was," they passed to the westward from Leech lake, up
small streams, across lakes, over hills and through swamps,
attaching names to streams and lakes on the assumption
that no white man had preceded them. The party reached
the east shore of the east arm of Itasca lake on July 21st.
1881, precisely where Schoolcraft and Nicollet had arrived
1 The name as siveii by Rev. .1. A. UilflUan. a student of the Ojihway lau;;u-
age, is She-na-wi-gi-shlek. Mr. Gilfillan. than whom no more reliablo Individual
speaks the Ojil)way language, interviewed She-na-wi-gi-shick, and credits this
Indian witli tlie followuig statement:
"I well knew tliat Lake Breck, tlit; Elk lake of the maps, was not the true lieaii.
but only the plaee where the waters were gathered; I knew tliat the true head was
a little stream a mile or two to the west, rut'.ning into the west arm of Lake Itasca.
Glazier never asked me to take him to the true head, and I well knew that I did
not take him there."
THE CLAZIF.Ii FIASCO.
193
more than forty years before, aud \vhere tlH> stakes and
blazed lines of the public .survey were in conspicuous view.
AN INDIAN MAP OF THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSII'PI, DRAWN BY
SUE-NA-Ul-GI-SHICK, AN OJIBWAY INDIAN, ISdU.
This map was drawn at tho roqur'st <if Rev. J. A. Giltillan by the Indian
employed by Glazier in is^l, as a Ruid.;. The man is the same, in all
essential partieulars, as the one drawn by the same Indian in 1881,
from which all the Glazier Maps have beea taken.
-13
194 THK MISSISSII'lM KI\KK AND ITS SOUKCK.
A* this timo. it had been discoverod that aftor tlieir foui-
days travel, theii* supply of provisions and ammunition was
about exhausted, the fishing tackle IkkI l)een lost, and the
party considered themselves in iinmineni (hinj^er for want of
subsistence. In this condition, they reachf^d Scliooh-raft
island and camped for tlie niffht. On the mornin*^ of the
i'2d, after an <'qual distribution of a ration amon«i: the six-
persons, the party, at about 8 o'clock a. .m., emVjarkcsd for
Elk lake', two miles to \ho southward from Sclioolcraft
island.
The party experienced ffroat ditticulty in propelling their
canoes through the rushes at the month of Chambers creek
and up its channel, removing logs and reducing diminutive
sand bars with canoe paddles, in (jrder that their canoes might
pa.ss up the creek between Itasca and Elk lak'-;. a distance
of but little more than one thousand feet. Reaching Elk
lake, they passed to the point ^ indenting its southern .shore.
1 Mr. Gilfilliiti in ;i private letter. Sept . 2",ttli. l>>s(i, wrote: -'Tlie ulin /e (iiatniiii:
his visit at tlielake) (K-curied, as I have said, t wo inoiillis before Glazier's trip:
and it wa- well linowti to him before lie sl;irted llial I liad been tliere befor(> hini
as I went fioni Lake Itasca straiijlit to Leech lake where he started, and told the
people tlicre [ ha<l been to Itasca lake, and he heard it from the resident clergy-
man there and niany others. * ♦ * • * * ijii) it was no feat anyway to fio to
Lake Breck (Elki as he did, nor was lie oronr party the iiisl that had been there,
for we fonnd a cleared place there near Liike Hreck and the dunt? of horses and
other si;rns of while nieti's habitation for a con>ideral)le time, and an old wa^ron
road lead in:; into it from t,he southeast. I have talked since Glazier's expedition
with C'he-na-wi-j:i-sic, ;is he called him. liis ,;ruide and boatman, w liom I have
known fiw years. All tlie speec-hes. etc.. attributed to him, by (Jla/.ier, are fables
asmiL'hlbe e.vpected, and never occurred. He speaks no En;;lish and Gla/.ier no
O.iibway. and all ascribed to him comes from (Jla/.ler's ima^rinatioii. Indeed, all
hi.s book and claims, as yiiu know, are a \V(;rk of in\;isinati<)n, e.xcept that he went
to Lake Breck (Elk) wliich is a, i)erfectly simjjle thins itnd can b(! done by any one
who would ffive a Leech lake Indian pi'ihaps twenty doUai-s to l;ike liim there in a
canoe and baclc. and is nearly as simple and as little worth talkini; abC(Ut as sioin:!
In u canoe from St. Paul to Hustings."
2 Julius Chambers reached this point .Tunc 10th, 18?2. and then wrote: "Here,
then, is </ic Hoiirirot tlie lon^'est river in the world." See pji^e s. iV. 1'. i/ernid of
.Tuly 6th. 1WT:;i. Thus more than nine years previous to Mr. Glazier's alle;_'ed discov-
ery, the work of Chambers (?ave to the world all there was to ;rive, coneernins; Elk
TFIK CLA/IKIt I" I, \ SCO. 195
(Icrlared the lako to !)»> tho sourco of tlio Mississippi, and
mim<Ml it -Lala! Ghizicr." From tho Iiuliun map' they
lixcd names to small (•.•vcks fiit(!riiiy Kile hike; j-t'tunnid on
\;iUv, in rlic hIiscih-c n( mm :i'Mii:il liydrDjinipliic survey, tliini'.'li :is tii Its tx-iiij^ tin-
s..iir<rf (if Ihf Mississi|)|)l. hf fell iiiiiillir saiur firm- ;is did A. II. Sitirfricd. who.
.Inly i:t. |s7!l. two yciiis l)t I'orr t lit' <ii,i/iii- party if:icln'<l this laUr. stood iiiioii lis
wi'stfrii short' ainl tlc<I:irfd it ti) !»• tlit! "lii'.rhcsl trilmtiiry to iIk' .Mississippi." Hi'u
LitM\s\\lU\ I 'iHirier-JiHirniil. .■\ii;.'iist, lNT!t.
Till' (IlsfovtM'y liy ('haiiiht'rs iniist taki- prfi-cdfiii-f so fur as Elk lakt; is cou-
fiTiifd, t>\viiiK solt'ly to lilt' fac-t that .Sch()<dcr;ift :irid NiroUcl tnadf no slati'iiicnt
I'oiK't'rnlnir It, it thfn (ISIiiJ-t;) hiin;; a l);iy of Itasca laUt'. siiict' scp;ir;iti'd hy iialunii
(MUSI'S, as St atfd and hilit'vcd toht'tht; fact. Thus discoveries at P'.lk lako (so-
cMlled (ila/ieriMre 1st, .lean N Nicollet. |m:1i;; L'nd. .lulius < •haiiiliers. IHTti; :ird, Ed-
win S. Mall, IKT.-i: Itli, A. II. Sic-fried, IKTK; 5Mi, o. K. (iarrisoti, iKhO; (1th. Uev. .T. A.
<;iltillari, |s8|. .-md twoof Ihi^stj piililicly proclaimed it tli(! sourcf of tin; Mississippi
riv(!r(erront!Ously) ht^fort; Mr. (Jlii/.ler saw it or knew of Its exist enc<-. His tixpcdi-
tion l.sfonsftiut^ntly llujTtli to rtiacli Elk lake mikI llie I hird in tlie order of dtrelar-
ind It thcstnirci! of the Mississippi.
,S(i ho disco V(!r('d not h inn there, and llien Imldlv |iliii;i.i.rl/cd sclioolcraft's wrlt-
iti;;sin an ondt^avor to slow that he did.
Siil)se(|ucnl events indicate, witli an MneiiiiiLr certainty, t lie deep seated pur-
))ost's and plans wliicli wert; so .'idroilly made use of. in an t':.'re'.;ioiis ;rt'o^'raphii;
niisrei)rt'seiitatioii of natural condit itJiisexislinn near t lie source of the Mississippi.
1 Conoorniri<?thl.s Indian map Mr. (iilfiilan wrote:
"F have just received a letter from my LtHMdi l;ike fi iend. enclosing the within
map, drawn hy She-na wi-L'i-slilck. He says: "l had She-na-wi-Ki-sliick draw thi'
enclosed map. We had no map, nor w;is tht;r<; tiny at tiio a;.'ency hut t lit! (ilazler
map.' N. li. I told hitu to show Slie-na-wi-'_'i-sliick on the '_'ood map which he
would tint! at tln^ a^'tmcy, the lakes you spoke (<f. i|Mot iiiir to liiiu your description
of them, location, t;t<j.
'I simply had to take that and ^'o hy your (|U(;stion. He say.s there are no two
lar-fo lakes hesides tht- one culled Gliizit"!-. The lakt- noted asOlazitM-is t;alled
O/li-a-wush-ko, meaning Green lake. The map in Gla-ier's pamphlet or book,
purports to he fi-otn tht; one lie drew, hut he says it has lie -i deviattHl from. The
one enclosed is Just such a one as htr furnished (ila/icr. He said to me, tliat the
party went around the lake. lEIk lake) hut did not e\pIori> the streams llowiic' into
it from the south. Tliey took no miiasurcnr'iilsof its tlept h, nor altitude above
the sea levt I.'
In refi'ienct' to the Indian name' of Hre<'k (Elk) lake, L'iveii in the above e.vtract
by She-iia-wi-;;i-slilck as Green lake. I would say that in; told me Ions as?o it waw
Pe-ke-gu-maji, an.itliciscrt Pokesatna, mi^aninK 'a water Juttini; off from anotluT
water.' something as a lln.ner from a hand. The explanation in niy mind itj either
that that lake, lying In a region, visited, until vt^ry lately, by but very few Indians,
liad no very distinctive name, but was described in both the abovt; ways, to make
tliost! who did liapi It'll to know it, know what lake they were talking about, and so
described in two w aj's its two prominent cliar.acttiristics, eitheras Green lake,
from its color, or its peculiarity of .jutli-ig. or being a sort of annex of ItascalaKe.
I knew before that tliere would be no Indian names for the lakes you wroti;
al)out. I hope that you now htive all the Information needed. I f t here be any-
thinL'clse in which lean help you please let me know and I will liave it attended to.
\UCi THE MISSISSIIMM KlVKIi AM) ITS SOL'KCK.
the same day to Schoolcraft island, and hastily i>roceodiiijr
to the north end of Itasca lake, j)assed down the Mississippi
about ten miles and camped for the night of July 22nd, 18S1.
But one-half of one day, without the use of any instruments
for observations or measurements, was expended in an ill -
leged location of the source of the Mississippi river, years
after others had done the same thing, at the same place.
This brief statement is based upon the published report
of the Glazier \'oyag<3 to Elk lake, which is accepted as the
action taken by him at that time The i)arty, rack(»d with
the pangs of hung(M". consum(!d ilm carcass of an otter, and
for days subsisted on whatever they were able to capture
without fishing tackle and on a short allowance of ammuni-
tion, finally reaching the outskirts of civilization in an
exhausted condition from exposure and hunger, seeming to
have been entirely ignorant of the necessities of subsist-
ence, until a bitter experience taught the party a necessary
lesson.
It has been stated as a fact that Willard Glazici- and Mr.
Paine performed a r<Mnarkable canoe voyage to the Gulf of
My fiiciid paid Slic-iia-w i-ui->hirU ti.(Ki. In- u i itc-> rue. fof liis liDiililr in <1 raw-
ing tliu map. etc.. wliii'li vci'.v --in a II cunt rihiilinti. il i- a |)li':isiiii' In me I o make to
the cause of science.
If after you art; done with Slie-iiu-wi-L'i---liicl<'s niiii). > on iln rmi care for it, I
would be^rliul to liaveit, returned. I am
Kespecl fully yniir-.
.) .\. Cill.lILLAN."
From tliis entirely trustworthy statement, it would apijear : hat Slie-na-wi-jri-
sbick never saw oi- knew of the larue lakes soutli of Whipple lake, now first
named— either ijy Indians or whites— Morrison and Hernando de Soto lakes. She-
na-wl-gi-sliick oiui's these lakes from liis map. also Whipple lake, tlie Triplets anil
several otliers. It is ao>irit)us fact that Slie-na-\vi-i;i-sliicli inclu<les distinctly
the three Nicollet lakes upi.n liis map. indicatinii' tlie natural division hei ween the
I'pper and Middle lakes and tlie d -t ached \ipper fork of the Mis>is.-ii)pi. which he
very correctly delincalcil as liciii'.r lnnirei' t li;i ii ;iiiy stream foiimi iliere.
THK Cr.A/JKU FIASCO. \97
Mexico', whicli was in accordaiu-t' witli th<' plans contein-
I)lale(l at tlio inception of tlic trip to Itasca lake.
Previous to their arrival a*^ the Gulf of Moxico, there was
commenced a studied and thorou<^lily orji'anized effort to
force upon an unsuspectin<r public tlu> impression, that Elk
lake had been discovered by the Glazier party, and that it
was the principal reservoir at the source of the Mississippi.
Discoverin<^ that Elk lak<' had been detinitely located an 1
duly named, showint;^ its connection by surfac«» tlowage with
Itasca lake by the official surveys of the United States gov-
ernment. Mr. (rlazier subsequently receded from the posi-
tion taken and substituted the claim that his party had dis-
covered that Elk lak' '"s the "primal reservoir" and they
the first to discover ai n' kc known its importance as such.
Imp«»rfect and misleadiuir maps were made to conform to
the several claims assumed, the last of which, placed a
fictitious Ifmgth to the creek conn 'Cting Elk and Itasca
lakes, presumably that Elk lake miijrht appear to be situated
much farther beyond Itasca lake than it really is. thus to
more effectually impress upon the public mind that Elk lake
is the source, i)reparatory to at least a tacit recognition of
a baseless claim.
1 Prof. T. M. Lewi.^, a weU kimwii aicliii'olojiist. whose .scieiilUie- investig.i-
tions have imulc liim familiar with theoiitiif valloyuf trie Mississippi, is authority
for the stalcmi'iit tliat tliere is much doubt (.•oncerninjr tliis canoe voyage, tho
canoe itself, wliicli lie saw at St. Louis, not lH;aring upon its face any considera-
hle signs of liaving lieen used for so long a voyage. Messrs. Ola/.ier and Paine
undoubtedly liecanie personally ac(iuainted witii the comforts of lower Mi.sslssippl
river steamboats during tlie continuance of tlieir voyage.
In an interview Mr. Paine is reported as follows:
"I accompanied Mr. Glazier on Ids journey at a stipulated salary per week. Our
objective point was Itasca lake. Glazier had no idea of exploring any lake beyond
that. The idea first entered his head wlien wo were part way between Urainerd
and Leecli lake. There we met an old man who told us tliat Itasca was not the
farthest lake, and that there was another a little beyond Itasca. He had no more
claim to the discovery than you had. In Mr. Glazier's recent letter 1 see that he
puts forth the statements tliat the lake was named Lake Glazier contrary to his
wishes. That statement is not true,"
198 THK MISSISSIPPI inVKli AM) ITS SOUUCE.
Books, masHzine articles, maps, newspaper contribution.-^,
paid advertisements, proceedin^fs of informal meetings,
lectures, correspondence, garbled quotations from authori-
ties, literary notices, and an incalculable amount of relevant
and irrelevant matter has been printed and published with the
one important result in view — to manufacture public sentiment
sufficient to secure recognition, that Elk lake might be changed
in name and permanently fixed as the source of the Mis-
sissippi. To this end public officials, map-makers, publish-
ers of school-books, editors of newspapers, academies and
societies in Europe ' and America, educators, professors of
t;olleges and citizens generally, were sought to confirm the
claim of alleged discovery. That this deep-seated and well
managed scheme of deception failed ;n its purpose, is
owing to several causes-.
1 The Royal Geoj;rapliic;il Society of London, sofiiiotl to have fonsidfri'd this
fictithjus chiiiu as worthy of notice and endorsement.
2 Tlie Minnesota Historical .Society, upon a consideration of the question, caased to
be prepared a report, by Gen. J. H. Haker, severely denouncing the attempt to change tlie
geoirraphy of Minn sota.
The Legislature of the State jmsspd the following enactment :
Be it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minn pota:
Section 1. That the lake known for many years to the Indians and early explorers as
Elk lake, situated in Heltrami county in section twenty-two (23) of town one linndre<l
and foity-three(l4d) north, range tldrty-Bi.x (.iti) west, lift h principal meridian, Hhall be
known and designated ht'reafter on all oflic al ma s of tlie State and named in all the
County and State records referring to the same .-is "E k lake."
Sec. 2. No edition of any school geography published subsequent to January one
eighteen hundred anl ninety, which contains any map giving any name to tlie lake
specified in section 1 other than ''Elk lak=." sliall be used in the s<-hools of this
State.
Sec. 3. This act shall take efifect and be in force from and after its passage."
Approved April ;24th, 188U.
There also appeared under the title of "Captain Gla/.i -r and his lake" a i'efui;i-
tionof his claims, under the ausplce.s of Ivison, Klakeiu.m. Taylor & Co. of New
York.
Minor causes could be briefly stated, among which are the published claim that
Mr. Glacier discovered six creeks falling into Itasca lake— the si.xth originating
in a lake aoriit five miles soutli of Itasca lake, which is not true. Mr. Glazier di>-
ci.ivcrcd none of them, and his own account admits of his having visited but one
of them.
TiFK (il.A/.lEK FIASCO.
19it
OXE OF THE OLAZIEK 3IAPS, 1881-6.
200 rill. MISSISSIIM'I UIVEU ANM) ITS SOUKCK.
Mr. (ihizior caused to bo liUblisluul a book..ontitlod 'Down
the Ciroat River," descriptive (if liis claims, which was
copied almost bodily, in its jirincipal subject, from the pub-
lished works of lleiiry R. Schoolcraft '. without credit.
The ])la^iarism. so palpable, stamped upon his purposes
a true character, and its dedication did not save it from a
condign refutation.
1 Frtini "Niirriitlvfiif iiiK'xiH-dltioii tliroiich tlic \ippt'r Mlsr,Is>lp|)| toTiiiscii luki-"
I y lltiiry \i ScliuokTiift, ISC'. I'lililislicd liy IhuiMT and HiutliiTs, IKU, pii'^'»'40:
•'My fat liiT. till' coiiiit ry you aro iioln;: to . set' Is my luititiii;; ground. I liavf
inivclfd with yuii many days. I shall ^'o with you farther. 1 will myself fiirnisli
tlio maps yon liavi' ri'imt'st«'(. and will Knidc yon oiiwaid. There arc matiy rapids
in the way l>nt the waters are favorahle. I shall isnlt with iriy bund about the
(•ano(>s and set> who will step forward tn furnish them. My own t'linoe shall be one
of the number."
From "Down the Great River" by '•('api"i" Willnrd <ila/ier." published at I'hila-
delphia, 1887, by Hubbard Uros.. p 4i»:
•'My brother, the country you are ijoins; to visit i-- my hunt in;.' ;iround. I have
hunted their many years and planted corn on the shores of .Liike Itase.i. My
father, now an old man, rememtM-rs the tirst whltt! chief who came to look for the
source of the ;;reat river. But my brother, no white man has yet seen the head
of the father of waters. I will m.vself furnish the maps you have called for and
will jjuide you onwaril. There are m.-my lakes sirid rivers In the wa.v but the
waters are favorable. I will talk with my friends about the canoes find see who
will step forward to furnisli them. My own canoe shall be one of the number."
■•Schoolcraft's Narrative,' 1S34, p 52:
"Oza Wlndib soon pushed his canoe Into the weeds and ex(ialnied "(Jinn
jdifctunin " ("here is the portage.') A man who is called on for the first time to
debark in such a pUu'e will look about him tt) discover some dry spot to put hi>
feet upon. No such spot ever existed here. We stepped into rather warm pond
water with :i miry bottom. After wading a hundred yards or more, the soil
became firm and we soon I'.cgan to ascend a sliirht elevation where the growth par-
takes more of the character of a forest.
Glazier's '•Down the Great River." p (50.
"Che-no-wa-fie-sic S(K)n pushed his canoe into the rushes and e.\clalme(l 'oma
mikunna' here is the portage. A man who is called on for the llrst time to debark
in such aplace will cast about for some dr.v spot to put his feet upon. No such
spot, however, existed here. Westepped into rather warm pond water with a miry
bottom. After wading a liundrcd yards or more, the soil became firm and we began
to ascend a slight elevation where the growth partook more of the character of a
forest.
"Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, pp. 53. .54.
The portage f rt/in the east to the west branch of the river is estimated to l)e six
miles.
Beginning in a marsh it soon rises into a little elevation of white cedar wood, then
plunges into the Intricacies of a swamp matted w ith fallen trees, obscured with
THE (ILA/IKU FIASCO. L'Ol
His staloments are so dtn'oid of li-iith and voracity that
his claim as a discoveror iifnominiously subsides by reason
of the wi'itfht of its absurdity, re))uj;nant to historical and
geotjrapliical facts.
The selections noted are so strikingly convincing of the
real character of the two writers of ]Ki2 and 1884 7. that it
II10H8. From thin thu path uniiirKvs upon dry iiruund. It soon ascends an elevation
of oL-f uiili' siiiiil liavltiK IxdiUlors iiiid lipurlnit pint's. TIuto is tlu-n uiiollicr <lesi'ont
and aiiotlicr cU'valion. In shorl, tin- 1 riivclcr now finds lilinsclf iTo».iri'_' :i sciics of
ililiivlal siind-iidKt's which fortii llif helirlil of ImikI bftwccn the Mississippi viillry
and tlio Ut'd river.
Glazier's 'Down the Great Itiver." 188T. pp. r.4, 1'l.").
The distaniM! from the eastern to tlie western briinfli of tlie Mis>i>slp|)i i> l)ci ween
six and seven iniies. He^innin}; in aiuarsli tlie portaire soon reaelies ;i sIIkIiI eleva-
tion I'overed with a jirowtli of cedar, sprnce. white pine and taniaracit, tlien |)lnnKes
into a swamp malted witli fallen treesoljscured l)y moss. I^'rom tlieswanip tlie I rail
emerf;es upon dry ;;roiiiid, wlience it. soon ascends an eleval ioti of oceanic sand
preseutluK boulders and lieariuK pines. There is tlien another descent and another
idevatlon. In short, this portasic <'arried us over a series of diluvial sand ridges
whicli form the heijrht of land l)etween the Mississlpni and the Hed river of the
North.
"Schoolcraft's Narrative." lHa4, pp. 55. iVi.
Every step we made in treadinj? these sandy elevations sei'med to increase the
ardor witli which wo were carried forward. The desire of readiin^; tlie iictual
source of a stream so celeljrated as tlie Mississippi— a stream which La Saili; had
reached the mouth of a I'ciitury and a half (lacking a yearl l)efore, was perhaps
predominant, and we followed our f:nide down the sides of the last elevation witli
the e.xpectatlo'i of moncntarily reaching tl e iroal of our journey. What had hi'en
louR souf?lit at last appeared suddenly. On lurnlns ont of alliicket intoasmall
weedy openiny:. the clieerinfT sij:ht of a transparent body of water burst ujxin our
view. It was Itasca lake, the source of the Mississippi.
Glazier's "Down the Great Blver." 188T. p. 71.
Every paddle stroke st;emed to lucrea.se the ardor with which wi- were carried
forward. The desire to see the actual source of a river so celebrated as the Missis-
sippi, whose mouth had been reached nearly two centuries before, was, doubtless,
the impelling motive. * * * What had lontt lieensougth at last appeared sud-
denly. On pulling an i pusliin;.; our way througli a network of rushes similar to the
one cncounteri'd on leaviii}: Itasca, the cheering sight of a transparent body of
water burst upon our view. It was a beautiful lake, the source of the Father of
Waters.
"Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834. p. 58.
The height of this lake alxjve the sea is an objectof geographical interest, whicli
in the absence of actual survey it may subserve the purposes of useful Inquiry
to estimate. From notes taken on the ascent it cannot be short of one hundred
and sixty feet al)ove O >ss lake. Adding the estimate of 1.330 feet submitted in 1820,
as the elevation of that laice. the Mississippi may be considered to originate at an
i20L* TIIK MISSISSII'I'I UIVKU AND ITS SOUHCK,
would s«MMn jinuh'rit t<i b<'liov«> that no stutomont mad*' l).v
Mr. (ilu/ior can in :iny way bo coiisidrrod ndiabU', and a
cloud is thrown about his claims, by his plagiarism, which,
in the several staK<*s of his writings, have passt'd fvoiu un-
deserved credit to doubt, ami then to disrepute.
Those facts are not considc^red oth<M- than as a criterion
ujwn which to base a ccimparison of <haracter, for certainly
iilllludfiif l.t'.tii. sii.v loVKifcfliilMivi- lilt At'.-, iiv !iMli!ri«lli, asHimilii'.' fnrinir fliitii
u>< III)- ti:i>lH unit 4-<iiii|)iii IriL: li Ihruiiv' il' .UM'siiinr w<-<t fnrk. may Im' plii<'f.'d iti
.'(.lim iiiili-H.
Olii/.lcr's • Down I In- ilrvM IClvt>r," 18H7, p W.
Its lii'i.:ht uliovf thf H«')i Ih III! «>I).1<T| of L'i'oKriiplilcsil liilfn^sl, w lilcli In tlic ;ili-
-.(•iiff of ai'luiil Mirvcy. II iniiy siili-^rrvr till- piirposrM iif iisi'ful liMinlry to fstiiiiiil''.
I'Viiiii notes liiUcii iliirlii;^ till' asi't-rit. It ciitiiiol Imi Icssthaii lliifc fcft iil)<)\ »• Liikf
Itiisrii. Aililinu' till' est iiiiutf (if 1..'>T.'> ri-t'l. siihnilt ti-il liy Si-hiiiil(Tii.rt in IKI'J, as t Id-
i-li'vatliin of that lake, tlif Mississippi may li*- said to orli^'lnali- In an altitudi.- of
1,57H fi'ct iiliovi' the At lanlii- <H-can. Taklii'-' foi nii-r i-sl inialcs as tin- liasK and com-
pulliiu tlituii lliroii!:li its wosturii fork, its ii-ii:;tli may Ix' pluoed iit :i.|stnilles.
•'Si'liooUTuffs Narratlvi'," 1834, p. .V.).
Ilsiii'i;;in in tlir ii'mioI*' and iinfn'<m<Miifd aira of i-oiintry botweun L('(m:Ii lake
and Ut'd rivi'i', prohaldy an I'lil ire dt'trcf of lal itiidi; soiilli of Turtle lake, wlilcli
still IIkui-cs on son M' of t lie maps as its sniiirr, t liiows Ixilli tlie folks of tliis --t rcani
out of till' usual route of the fur I rade. and f urn i'-iies. perhaps, the l»esl reason why
Its actual soiirees have remained so Ion;; etiveloped in oltseurlty.
Glazier's "Down the (ireut Itiver," 1H«7. p. Tti.
The ori^tin of the river In an untraveled and secluded rejiioti, between Leeeb lake
aiidlheUed rivi^rorihe North, not less than adeiiiee of lal Itude soiitli of Turtle
lake, which was for a lonjj time supposed to lie tin; source, remoM's Itolh forks
of the stream outside the usiia! Iriick of the fur-traders, and presents -.t <:uihI rea-
sion.perliiips, why it-- fountain liead lias remained so Ion;; enveloped in uncertainty.
"Schoolcraft's Narrative" IXU. pp. HO-HI.
I went to Ills residence at the proper time a impai.a-d by Mr. .loliition I
found him living in a <'omfortalile lo^ buildini; of two riHinis well tloored and
••<iofed, with a couple of small ^lass windows. « ♦ t There was nootlur
person admit ted to tile meal, but his wifi; wbosatnear him and poured out the
tea, l)Ut ale or drank not liiii'; herself.
Tea cups and teaspoons, plates, knives arid forksof plain manufacturo. were
can^fuUy arian;;ed, and tlie number (Corresponded exactly with the exjiected
^{uest.s. A white li>h cut up and broiled in Kood t;iste, (x'cupled a dish In the center
from which he helped us, A salt cellar in which pepper and salt were mixed In un-
equal portions allowed each the prlvil(!i{e of season infr bis fish with both orneither.
Our tea was sweetened wit li the native su;;ar and the dish of hard liread seemed
to hsive been precisely wanted to make out the repast.
Ola/ler's "Dowti the (ireat Ulver." IsMT, pp. 4:{-44.
I went to his residence at the appointed hour Jiccompanied by my brother. I
round him llvini; in a (!omfortable Ion house of two rooms, well Itoored and riwifed'
TIIK CI.A/IKU I'lASCO. 208
•
.'Mjr ^«;o^ia|)hic history should tiol bo const ructi-il rroiiioth*'!*
than ri'liuhlo (hitii. und th:it construction can only be prcdi
cut«'d upon tho ndiability and cjianiclcrof the men who have
horctofoic jfivcn cause loi' researches concerning discoveries
—now consi<iered.
with a I'oiiplf of sinttll (tIhhs windows, A pluln iHiuril liililc HtiNMl In tlin oontr<>(if
iliii friitii riMiiii ii|iiiii whii'li till- illiiriiT \VH'< spri'iiil, • • • 'I'lic wiff nf
l-'liil Miiiitli Mil iiri Ills li'ft iitiil wulti'il u|iiiii liltii iitiil tliostt wliDtii III' liiiil iiivllcd.
Tea iMips mill tcuMpiHiiiH of pluln iiiitiiilf.'ii'liiiit wen* i-aii'tiilly iiri-itii;;i'il. tlio iiiiiii-
liiT rDrri'HpiiiiiliiiLC i-Mn'tly Willi tli. <-\pi-i-li'(l kiH'sIn. A lurui! <li>li of liasH iiiiil
whltt! (IhIi rill up !in<l liri>lli'<i III );ihm| liinli> wiih plai-rd In tlio fi'iilcr of IIik lulilf
frnni wlilrli wr wi-n- .i-rvfil. A lilii-h Imik suit ri-llar In w lilrli prppi-r iiiid miII wcih
tiilxiMJ In iinfi|iia| priipnriliiii iillnwrd riii-li llir prlvIL'^i- of si'iimhiiIiil' IiK li»li wlili
liiitli iir <llsp)'iislii){ Willi It iiliu'.'i't iiiT. ( iiir ii-'i wiis swi'i'tcni-d with iimiili' ^4lli(lll',
A (ll>li iiT liliif livri li'N pJi'Ui'il ■III t III' •'liiiri' nf llii- lukr I'lUiiplcti'd I In' iIIiiiht,
"Hidioolcrtiffs Narriillvi'." |s.'t(. p. Ml.
Tills rlili-r l>ri>iii.'lit iiir !i li'i ii r frotii I lif Interior, sonif yrars iiiro iit SI . Mary's, In
whii-h III! Is spoki'ii of iis "till- most. ri-Hpi'i'liihln man In the Cliippi'wa (Miiiilry.'
Anil If till- toriii was applii'd to his menial i|ii,'Llit It'-, and I In- power of ilraw lim Just
ronrluslons from known premises, itnd tlie olVrrtH which these liave had on his
slitndliiK Hiid Inlluenei) with his own hand, it In not misapplied. Shrewdness aiul
•lulekiu'ss most of till! chiefs possess, hut there Is more of the eharacier of i-ommon
senses and practical relied ion In the Oiielle Plat's remarks than, with a very exten-
■•ive a<'i|ualnlanci'. I ri'i-ollect to haxe riutli'iil in most of the i-hlefs now livjriKof
ihlstrlhe.
<;la/.ler's •• howii tlielireat Kiver." |ss7, p. 44
I was much ;;ratltied on this occasion l»y the presence of White Cloud, whom I had
rrei|iienlly heon told was the most respectahle man in the ('hlppewa country, and
If tlio term has reference to his in'ellei-tiial f.'u'iiltles, and tlm power of reachlni;
correct diduclions from known pri-ml>es. anil tlit; etlect which these have had on
his slandhi;; and inlluence with hisown trilie. it is not misplaced, .shrewdness and
ijiilckiiess of percept i'ln mu>l of I In- cliief'^ possess, hut t here is more of I he charac-
ter of Common sense and practical rctieclion in vVlilte Cloud's ri'iiiarks than I
re mem her to have not iced in an.v of the chiefs of my aci|uaintance.
"Schoolcraft's Narrative," ls;i4, p. Xl
.-senooicraii. s warraiive, is.w, p. :>.i.
navlii); followed out this 1. ranch of tlie Mississippi to Its source, it may he
ohserved that Its existence as a separate river, has hitlierto heeii unknown In our
ireojrraphy . None of the majis Indicate the ultimate separat Ion of the .Mississippi
ahove Cass lake into two forks.
Glazier's ••T)owii thetJreal l{lv(;r." IssT. p]j. OO .-ind i^l.
IlaviiiK ascended this fork of the Mississippi to Its source. It may lie noted that It
has not as yet liet,n;;lveu a jilace as a separate river In our !feo;fraphy. None of
the maps* indicate the ultimate separation of the Mlssissipjii aliovf I^ake tteniidji
Into two forks.
• (N. H.: Hee Schoolcraft's nia|i, IKili; also Lieut. Allen's map, IKi:,'; Nli-ollet's iiiai>.
IXtfJ; the government, survi-ys. and all the St.ate maps of Minnesuta. each of which
shows the two hrjinchesof the Mississippi.— I. V. H.l
L*04
TIIK MISSISSIIMM UIVKK AM> IIS SOL'lUK.
A UKMAHKAIUJ-: CI.IMATK.
()l)s«M'vuti()ns on the kouhmss of tlu* Mississippi i-ixcr. ir(>iii
Sclioolci-affs ••Summary Nurrutiv*'." Ih;{4. p. 4l';{.
July K...
•• IH...
• ll» ..
■• •:»....
•' ai ...
•• -a...
• 'M...
•• 24 ...
•• 35...
•• -M....
•' «■....
•• '-•H...,
• 29...
•• :«)...
• ai...
Aut?. 1....
a 9
< <
us to
61
no
Til
'.0
7*
NU
70
Mil m
sa' fs
H7 HO
H»
Nl
(Ml
7«
74
7»
HI
Ki
71»
U
.W
75
HT.
77
7H
7H
74
61
w;
61
M
711
a.
7H Mornliiu Mtii>. lien fiiir.
»» l-'iiir
... Ni|{)il riilriy. inurnliii: fli>ii<l> . thi'ti fall.
'^*\
...Cloudy, MHiic tlmiiiiir
. ..'NlKlit unci iiioriiliiKrMiu. iiftcriiiHui iliMnilcr.
...I Fill r.
...iKtilr.
. . . :Mi>rnliK' riilr.uvciiliiKi'loiicly hmiI imIh. i-liNir.
....MoriiiiiK fiilr. fVfiilii;{ fiilr.
... MoriiliiK full-, ruin In uftcrnocin.
. Icifiir
til Wind N W.. w((itli»»ri-|«.ur.
lilt Wind \V,, wcntlitT t'li'ur.
...Full.
•)....|....iFi»lr.
*Broku InHiruiuunt
Metoorolo^iciil obsorviitions at tho headwaters of the Miss-
issippi, from Ghiziers account "Am. Met. Journal," 1H84,
p. a2H.
The platjiarisra is so apparent, that consideration .'A^aileth
and further comment is deemed unnecessary; the
nothing,
Tin: <:la/,ii:u imasco. L'0;»
<luutations. th()U*;li limit«'(i in iiuiiil)«>i-, l)<>ui'in^ witnoss \o
facts as tlu'.v hav»j hoeu foiirul to oxist.
Notwithstaiulin^ lh«'S<5 cymclnsivt' Uutia wliirh havo com*'
t<) li;^ht conct'rnin^r Klk lake its discovery and incasuro of
importance, the (Jla/iiT absurdity is persisted in. but its
fraudulent cliaract«'r lias tinally hecoinf well understood '.
Mr. (jila/iei- was cliaf'fed •' with t'alsil'yinj^ the i-ccord of
discovorios at the source of liie Mississippi, for selflauda
tion and pecuniary j,Min. to such an e.\tent. that, if not true,
the charj^e was a lihrl, yot \w has remained silmt in the jiros-
ence of a remedial otfer, if he were wron^'fuUy accused.
1 In Vol. VII, p. .Va. .Ih^Mh Wliisnr'^ NurriUlvr un.M tiiiial UNinrv of Ni.nli
AiiU'i'ii-)!. Is kIvcii (III- fiillowliiK:
'••Still furtliiT (ict!iJl<'<l <'\llrl.llllltllln^•Ils tiiii<l('(l><S.'i-ri<l and IST.VTB) by tli<'eiixiiii>i-rs
of the Ijiillfd SItilfs hiUi' siiiv.-v uiiil .Surveyor (it'iu'iiil of Mliii:i",ot;i ^lioxv lliai.
the pi'liK'ipiil fi'i'ilcr hroiiilcii-i into a mimiiII laktt. callfil KIk luki'. and It N t IiIh lake
that Capt, Willard tila/Ur vNltcd at a latfi day iISm! i and flaltnxto liavr tirst
tllseovered iti It tlio soiirco of llic .Mississippi.' {lliiiinl Heim. Sm, I'mr. .Ian. IHh.'i).
The claim Is oonsldt'ti'«l auchn^lous."
Mr. Wliisor's autlioillyls in <'iTor coin-ornlii;.' the principal fft'ilcr.whii'h dors
not fall Into KIk lake. Inil tliroui.'li Mc(dli>t'> lakes to Itasca lake and tht; (inlf.
From the I'liiciiUiiiux of iln' Koyal tifoirriiphlcal Society foe Drloher. Isyl. ijie
folhiwlnj: extract is nuoled:
•'•*•• It would .>ceni lliat Captain (ila/lcr vvii.s premalure in arrlvitn; at
the conclusion tlial lie was the real discoxeier of ilie sourt f llie Mississipi)
and that, as a facl.tlie map ln' prepared does not show the snun-o of that '.M-'at.
1-1 V IT.
AN Ki'KN i.i:!Ti;u.
•_' St. I'All.. Dec. •,n.'nd, IKSS.
To Willard Ohi/U'r. .Sir: Vo'i liave pul)lislied i<> tho world that onorulxiut
the ;.'','nd tlay of .Inly. A. I)., ISHI. you maile the original discovery of the true sou ree
o." tht^ .Mississippi ri\er Nimi have dcsi^'iialed tliat sou ree and Iiialled and ptili-
lished the same as l)eiu;i Kllv lake. .Minnesota Vou have, for self-laudation, pub-
lished to the world a false iiia|i of said lake and source, de>li:uatln'_' the same as
■ Lak(! <ila/.ier." Vou have fal>ely, anJ with sluimeful erroneousncss. endeavored
to appi-opriale to yourself the honor and fanie .lustly due o hi'r and more dislin-
(luished jientlemen who preceded you in the Jiccurate und conscientious diacovery
of the .soun-eof said river. Vou haveendeavored tothlsend to wron^'ly and falsely
jiorvert the correct history of the discovery of the true .source of said river f(»r pur-
poses of self-laudal ion anil p"rsoiuil uain. I ch.illiMiL'e the corri'ctness of your
assumptions in that behalf, and lor the puri)Ose of testititr the ;retiuineness of your
claims relativi> to said lake, source and river. I admit in case my above statements
are touud to be fsilsc by the proper judicial tribunal, that I am iiulehteil to you in
any sum found liy an impartial court and jury. I now demand as a proper testof
the (luestlou of discovery, that you lile your bill of complaint a;:alust tneintho
-0<5 'llll. MISSISSII'I'I UIV'I.K AM) IIS SMl'UiJK,
Tin- falsiiic;iii<»(i of tlm stilt,*! im;i|) <>r Mimn^sotJt, hy tli«js«!
iiH'uns. Iii-r;iiiic so iiotofioiis lli.il llif ^ovaruov of Miniuisotu
i'('<)U(fsl('(l :i ri'poi'l' I'lojii its sljiif pitrk <'oiiiiriissioii<'i", on llif
:i|)|)lic:it.ioii of riUztMis. cocniclijij^^ tin* <m roivs.
Tlif ( voii^'i-. s Intju'n.'itioiiiil ;it Itcini-, on tin- iL'lli fjf An^'
iisl, l>i'.)l. upon ;i considi'fution oj ;i puiHT- )»r«'|>iir<'«l l<y Mr.
CifDv^i' ('. Hiiilliii: Mild pifM'iiti'il Ijy Mr. l''ran«-is A. Stout,
n«sp<'(ttiv«'ly. Iil)r;iiiaii und \ i<<' |tr<'si(l<*nt of thf Anmrican
(i<'o^Taplii(iil Socii'ly. appoiiit.<!(l Sii- (it-rii-^f Uovvjjm, Maj.
I'cjst, IJ. S. A . Messrs. Napoh'-on Nry. A. di- < !laj»an'<l<' and
K. V. ll<'ss«'-VV^iil<!^;4'. a rouiinittiM- ol tin- ( !oiij^r<'s, upon a
I't'port of \vhi(di. Au«rusl i;;ili. the <laiin of Mr. (ila/i«!i' was
d(!(;lar<!d without foundation, and an award of ori^'inal dis-
covery in favor of S(-liooi<:i-aft, lji*Mit-<'nant AII<mj an<l NicoJ-
It't, wa.s accorded unanimously.
D(!linite a(dion. of tliis naliiif, secnis not to liavB lessenMd
tli(! ardoi", ni>r tliwarUid tlie purpostis of Mr. (Jlazi'f, fcjr
IJtilUfd htal«!S Clr<*ult (joiirtfur Ihi! I>lHt rict of Mliiric'>-'>l.i Em., pitwy U>Ustvi:
iiiilllllii Ih-<-fiiihfr tcrtii, IHHI), to pMidiii')' e\ idciirc; rhul lln<-:i-<- ^liiiil In- iKljudl-
i'!ilf<l liifiii'f till! i-iiurl 111 lii-i'i-nihiT, Iww», or iis ^Moii I lii-iiuf Ici' ii-i i-ouiimcI citii Iji:
li<;iii'<i, mill Mm L tin- cimlci'iit-'iii'il will ultiM- no ti'()iiii<-iil ohjii'i ioni to yoiir«uil. liiiL
tliiil, l.lii; .saiiii' hliitil III- ti'ii-il on il-1 merits. I |iio|io-i- anil oll'i-r to piiy any jiidt-'-
iiii-iil. you ma '■ olitatd ii^:ninit. nn. ami io ;.'ivi' t-'ood and Mitlli'linl hond llii'iifor,
Vou ail- llniM jiuld.'c'ly idiiii;ri-d, to thii end llialyoii may liavf an am|)leo|i|)oiiiiiiily
to adjudliratir your riKlilfiil '"lalms, if you liavi: any. <i|- to fori'Vir lii-iiaflir slanii
liuhliely IjiaiidiMl as a false and fraudulent elaimanl of tin ri^^lil- of olIiciH. Tin;
emlni-iil and itn|tarlial ,)uflsl* liefoie wlioni llie ca-e liin lie I lied, warrants the
statoimiiit that an iiniiiejudlred and Iniiiarl i;il i iial on it-- merits can lie hail.
.1. V.IIKOWKK.
(Note! This elialleti^'c lias Ijeeii roiie.ied liy audiii;^ the word ••orltrinal" In liie
four) h line afler I lie word ■tlie" and Immedlalc l.v |iieeediiiK < lie word "dlseovery.")
•'I'hi- emineni jun-t referred l.o is .liidge UreWer, recently elevat«'d to tho
suiireiiic liemli of I he Iniled Slates,
I .See report entitled 'Otllciiil Koldrr," "The Soill-i-*' of tin; Misslssilipi liiVHf,"
on lile Willi the lilir.irian of Mie Amerii-an Oeo;.'ra|ilii'-al Society. Harvard t'ulU-.jn-,
the I£oyal (ien;.'ia|i!iic!il Society andotlier ;.'i-o;.'i iiphical societies Ihrouizhoiit lliii
World.
'i See <ieiii';ie <;. Ilurlbut's liapei ii|iom |ia^'«! II7M, iiiilletln of the Amerleaii (ieo-
Kraphical .Soi'iety. Vol. \.\l 1 1, and pro.-i eilin-'- of i he < 'nii^rrf-s Iniernaiionai des
,Si;leiices(a^o;.'ra|)hliiu«s. Aiij-'ust. Ih'.h
'I'MK «;i.A/JKK I'lASCO.
L'07
.niiiH'dUiU'Ay I'olldwin^'- tli<- jution ..I lln' IJ.tih' (Um^^vs, li.-
ciill^'d about liimsiilf a IV'w of lii> |h-isou;iI Irionds, two or
A^/r
'IIIK <il,A/IKK -MAI- Ol 18!»|.
three of whom liad for y<^ars Htr<!nu(.u.sly advof-at.-d liis
claims, and oufra^'in*/ \\m services of an oI>s<'im<- and r-(m-
20H
I III'. MISSISSII'IM UI\'KK AND I'l S SOi;U<:K.
voniont \HtfHiiu l.o :ic\ iti thi* <::i|)acity ol' ;i survf^yor, !'n; |»;irly
|»rc)f,«'«*<J<'«l to Kll{ l.il'f, tli4- latlff \nn\ oi Aiij^iist, I^DI, n-
Miuiniii^jf <;/i<;uiii|»<Mi then; six or fijrlit diiys, 'luring Wiii«tlt
tiiiK* lli'-y ••laiiii to havf .sur\«'y«!<l IIh- loc.iliiy. amJ, r>r rrjijcsc
(Mj(lors<*(l tin- < ila/K'f claiiri. I'lol racti-d rainstorms ami the
<l«'nsit,y ot t.liir l!ora tln-ri-. in Aii;.ni,-,t, I'i'.ll, njaxic it, aljso
iiit,<'ly iiii|jossilil<' to accurately survey tin- lor;ality a that
time. 1 1 appears that they reported the loti^ei- slrtiaiii-.
thero, short; and the short streams, the loii;.''er; in order to
<tarry oi't their purpose, jorc-rlaiii it. is. they re|i<»rl. Nicol
let's Infant, MiKsishippi seveial thou-,aiiil leet shorter than it
r<;ally is, and attempted to broaden out iIm- lOik lal<e locality
loan uidue proportion. pla;<iari/.in;r N icolUjt'.s report by
purloining' tlie name inlant Mississippi."' which they at
tempted l.<» attach i'> </'hamt>ers creek, conspicuously i^jkm'
in^ other ini|»oilant hydro^raphic cr>nditions. Upon tln-ir
retuin. the iWd ol Sejjtemher. a map of their operal ii*n,'^ \va>
published.
Mr <ila/jei' and his pe^'sonal Ifiends w<!re the ni)vin;r
spirit in 'his last j.'eoj/raphic. farce.
Two or threi: members of the party'. h'*we\e) ha\'e
1 Mi lliiil.> IC. C(,l(lj, In :i i<-l l.ii i|;ilirl Si|,i ri(ilji-t II I li, IH!(1 M:iy>. :
" Wlilli- I 1 n |i<v fi| Dili \ i-ry |ili;i^;ijil ■iDiiiiuiiliwi'ili i|i <i( I In; <»]a/i"'f liiirly, nil l)ii-
<(l(Mitv:ill'ifi,"! wlili-li Dur l.rli-f l.iiiu' iiltuwiil ii-^ li( iii.iUi- only i-wlirm. il (In- .i"'!-!!!:!!",
■ •r.l. V Hrowir'^1 worU In tliiil, n-Klun."
Mr. < ■, l>, Oul,ll:iK. wlio !t>-i-'>niit;inl<'il lln <<l:t/.|i-i piiily, i!ty,i nn'lir lial.i; of .••«|>l .
nil, imu .
" I tiJiM- ri;<M;ntly vlhlii-d Liiki- lUiiiist ami |-.lk litkt; :in<l I Im- lin;.'i;«l ;iiift |riri;<c>il
hU'*;iiiii i-nliirlii^r L.'iUi- ll!i>i"i |.-> l,li<- hI.mjiiii ••iilli-il NIi'dIIiI ii<i:li "
.Mr. .1. <:, «;iiiiiit iiikIi T <litli; «f Hifpl,. '.iiaii, |-,'.j|. iKlmllr. Ill": i-.jijicln" i>, of .) V
Hr<)w<i'« I><M:l11<'<I ll,v<lii)>:r.i|(lii'- CUuii iti fullnw-^:
•'I will -i;iy IliitI, lln' lii:»|> ^i!iil nil-, K .-in iMCfUi-ol dm't. 'I'ln- I>><';lI Ion of llii; lalit-i
I l>clli\ r !tii- ••oriri't, unil I i<!i' no r<-:ir»on nn yi-l Iti lliltilt olliirwNi-,"
Aiiotlii:!' iiKriiilji'i of I III' {>;iily wroli':
" 'I'lm only olliii lni|(Oi litiil fii-<li:r of h:tUi- Ilii-5i-iilh .Nl'-ollcl, <:iii |i wlilirli irnu it
itiiM-:i ahout. SI <)ijsirli'i of a liiUn wi;«l uf lh<! oijt.lft of llii- <tii-1' from KII< liik ■.
'i'liU wiiH<!iin!fcilly cuiilori'il itlKl rni-UMirml from nioiiOi lo hoiuri'; ni-:ii' Iti niont'i
11, 1'jiirli- Jilimil iwlcfllii- voliiMH- ijf walj-r wlil<-li liavi- I In- <ilii/.lrj laki;."
'I'lIK (.l,A/.l).K I lAsru.
L'O!)
.'ulmif.l...J Uiaf, tl... NmoIIh sln..t,n w.-t. Iou.mI ,„ I,.. .1... Ur;,^.,-
Jiful lon;<«!f.
Mr.(;yru.s(;. Adams, as U..-.,,!,!.,,- .,1' (;o|.JU,wuif.,s (i.-o-ra
lihical Ma^'azin.., l,a, '•o.isj.iniou.sly an<i ably ..xposod > n,.-
pn^UrnHionh of this last. disfr,rIio,. of ;,M.o^.ra,,hi.al Uu-Xh, Uy
UiiH SO (;alN.(i Hcjunul <:U,/.\i-r ,-x\H'.il\lU,t, of 1H!H.
ItMMMns an .-vil l,o biinl.-n a n-rxm] with a sul> divisi.>:, ol
thisnutunt, UulHhr-.. Um. fa.:l,san. to Ix-staU-d, Un-y hav- f,...,.
j,'.v<jn, inasshortas,,;uM5aspossil>N,.,.,„v..ni..nt lor.-, pro,..-,-
'UMlorsUndin^' of .J*.:..pf.iv.. pra.,tir.,s, whiH,, loo .-asily
'.J,Uin.,d n,rtoKni1io,i in ^'.-o-raphiral qnarf.Ts, wImt- t^.th'.,-
ll.in^'H mi;.hf, w.ll (,.. ...xp..H..<|, in Kurop. as wHI as in
Afij<;ri<;a.
'» '-annof b.> .-lain,.-.], will, any .J<.^m-... „f v.-rarily t,h;,l
■•".y lurUM.rorn.on- ..xK-n.!..,] ni.-asnr.Mn.nfs wmv mad.. Uy
Mr (;ia/,..ran.] Ins ,s..|.-.l..d Iri.-nds, in IHU\. t.han an. shown
••" l"s n.ap, h..n.wilh ^iv.m, a:, it was publislM-d S.-pUmih.-r
•'•"'• "'"•'•-•". It h.- surcM-Hsfnlly d.-ni.-.l, l|..-., ,ho... n-.-asun,-
nutnt.s :u-*'. /'i/hr i,ii<n.
'J'h.wiiap, as may t>„ n-:i.|i|y n,>lir..,l. is wortl.l-ss. as,-,
huhis \i,v i-(,n-^'(:\. ijjformalion.
Of iUi'. man whr, iuts rovr.j.-d in sm;h dislM,n.,rah|.. pnu-
ticxjK, what mon- n..,-,] !>.. sai.i. imluss J«/'»./« ,„l l,,mm.
I I'. 710. V.l.lJ 0.-i,i,hwa.,o',,<J.«,Krai,i,l..d MuKu/ln... .V.,v..,.,l...,. 1h,„.
14
sri;-i)ivisi(>.\ t\m;.\tv-si<:(()M).
IMONKKIi SI'/I'TI.KMKN'r AT I'l ASCA f.AKK: I'KTKL'
'ri;ii.\i{i:ij. and i-'amily; 'riiK skcomj (jomin*;
OK (;iviLi/j';i> (>('('i'i'A.\(!v.
Mr I'i'iiM- 'l'uriil>iil I lnniiiMl y ;i .siii-\ cyor ;iii(| civil ••ii^irHMT
mnU-f Wm: \Uii\ii\\\' i\ ( iovi'itiiiH'iit «>r <';ui;i<l;i. iii;i(l<' the lirst,
iwtiuiil pi'friiiiiit'ril, set I Ifi'M'iit :it lt;i,sc;i l;ik<', with his r.'iiriily,
ill 1li<- inonlh oF Sf|»t<'inl><T, \>*K', '.
Mr. 'I'niiil)iil I h;i<l |)r<»>,|n;rl,iMl lor ;i \';i\(i\-;i\Ai- location.
;iii(l ,s<!'«'(!<'(l lh<' «!;ist sliori' ol tli.- ist^t, iiiiii ol th<i l;i.k<\ :i
siiorV (listiiiiff liorth of th<' p'li'it wln-r'' tl)<' Sfhoolcr*:! It
Kxp<!<iit ion Ii.kI i-<';i<-ln'<l tin- Ink*- iin>i-f tliiin lilty y«!iirs
hi'lriff-.
Willi ;i I'ovc*' (*!' assistjiiit^, h<- const ructiij thi- "'ruriihuil
••oad" which l<';ii|>, rrom Stony lii<l;.''<- to lli<-c;i,st, sh«»rc ol'
It,iisc;i lake, t,hroii;.'h Mary viillcy. 'I'liat road lias Ix-codi'-
the lUJiiii t lirou;^lir;ir<' to a(i<l Iroui 1h-^ lt.i,sc,:i |{;i,siM.
A I'ost olli<'c was cstablislMMl, since (lis«ton1 inncd, ;im(1 in
r:i|)i(i succession, dilTerent; j)ortiotis of the locality w«;re
marked by the c;i.hins <i\' settlers. .Mr. 'rnrnlniirs I'ainily
I C),;iil<-y I . 'riiriiliiiU, I 111- (lr-il, <lill(| l)uiii iif wlilli- |i:ir<'ii;.:i;.'<' (tl IlitHcii l;iUi-
.Iiiiif .M h, IMMI, •,iirv Ivirs 111* iiiul ln-r-, Miiiy .1. TuihIjiiII wti)illi-il .il ('ark ICii|ilil'^
Mliiii., In M:iy, IhW.),
ri. I I.I,- II K'\l;l I.I. .\ Ml I \ Mll.\
I'lONKKK .Sl/ri'rKMKNT AT IIASC'A l.\i\K. I'll
w«'n! |MM'm:iii<'ii1. r<'si<l<'nls ii|»oti llin hike >.li<ir<' :ib(>ut. twri
y<!ar.s, (Juf'in;.'' wlii<li liim-. loiuls wen- f»|MMH'<l \\intn^/;\i i\^^^
I'orcsiH lo (lin<'i<'ril |(»c!ililifs, \ty I. N. Mursli and otlusrs.
:iii(l till' wiUlciiH'Ss ;issiiiii<<| t|i4> :i|i|)i-;ir!iri('o «»l ,1 licsl in(lir;i
tiDiiof adviiiicin'r c'ivili/,ati«>ii (>l the lony; list ol' s<'l.tl«'r.s
wIm) hiiv<' ft'SHlcd at i>y ri<'ai- tin- soiir-fc. Ir'oin Mr. 'rucnbuirs
in<',(*pt,i()ri <»r actual <K-(\i\ni\iry , tlx- n-coids (*r tin- Land
l)i'|ia,rlni<'nt nl' lln^ I'riitcd Stat<-s, at Wa,sliirj;.''ton. <<»(itain
an ollicial history '.
It is propff t,<> sl,:it,«! tliiit, tli<' chjiriictfr <it tlif locality is
a lori'st and with its hills and valleys and streams it, is pic
t,un!S(|ui', and a, natural wildi-mcss. nnsnitcd lor a^ricult-ural
piirsuil-s, and as soon as title is sccuri'd l»y th< prool's (d'
s('l.l,lc(ncnl arid occupan<'.y, the land is ahaiaioncd hy most of
th«! Kctt.lcrs lor nioii- invitin;jf homes neaif-r ci\ili/,it ion.
Mr. Turtdiiill reniov(Ml to I 'ark liapids, Minnesota. wher-«;
\\t' wasOhaiiman <>[ the Uoaid ol ('<iiinty ( Jommiss.oner-s of
Hubbard Oounly. His sei'vi(;(!S, secur:'d in |hh|i uiiil«!a.n
exatninat.ion vv iS bein^ ha<l in the lield. wim'- of inestJinabNj
valu<!, faithfully and carefully rend<Mcd by the man who \r.ul
resi(l«'d at the Itasca Hasin, and was willin;/ to t<!nd«!r the
biirujlit. <d his skilled labor, and his pefsonal knowled;^*^ of
liuj locality.
The cabins of the locality, aw a, ruh'. remain hut empty
.sh<ilis, no Ion^'<;r the habitation of former- owners. TImj
reasf»ri for this is that the land is \alNablc. princijially for
I AriioriK IIk- niinii'toii - •hLini ImNli-in (In- u:i'ii''^'>f I li< follow In/ ii n- noliil
from I lilt I'^M'oril :
.liitiK-H II. HI lUi-. .loliii <;, ICyl)', A. .M. IS<Mili.ii.i. holMi! K. Mi-:ii|, K. M. Khftlly,
W. II. Nii.vl«i, I'.C. Sw«!<ti<y. C(-atl>t, |,<)w< , tiioiKo l> MjiikIIko. AIIktI, N. TiiII,
I''. A. Kril.s, 10, Tiinli. Alhiil H:iinjil<i, Siimiifl Mi'Cliirc, H. M. ItoiinluK, Ida Mfiy
llliilr, KiiK'TK^ Wllll.iiin, Will. II (ir<MMi. II. C. Wlliruins, I''. A. V.-unli-rpool. Win.
McMulliii, ,1. II. Mitlloon. .htiu.s 1'jiiI.h, Wis|.-y (1111, I). H. I'iil lirsoii and T. H.
I'liiiK-y.
212 THK MISSISSI!»IM KIVKU AND ITS SOKKCK.
its pine tirabor, and tiio claims, for a (;()iisi(l<'ratK)n, have
passed to a non-resident ownership.
The second cornin<j: of civilized occupancy will follow the
construction <»f railroads to and beyond the source, and not
until then.
Mlv'. I|(»II.U I.I.I, (I, \K-Ki;.
siHf-itivisK.v r\vf:\iv-(iii|.|..
ob't.„.:ha.s,.v,.vu,h.kwk,.,,,.,!auk-,, "■'
Yo'^ctrr '"'"'"" ' ""' ' "' ' '"' ^"-'
York City, thoro occuirred in ihh»; a (Jisru^^iM.
.ns,.ovor..H and ,ii«..,v„n.» ,., u„, .„„,., , ,„„ ^^, ^ «
been, to a vc-y irrcui i.yjoMf -i ■ ''•>». fi.Mi
whi.„ a was suu„, u,.,, ,„„ „,.,:„:.: --7" '■■
Klkh.k,,.s, was al,„„l Hv. ,„il,.s ,.l,. ,T, "'
«^r.-s» u. ,„,,. „, m,.hs,„;^h;, ■, ';.;;■:„" -^''7'
.■hannol of tl„. .;,-„,,l,, ,, ,,,0 f,.„t , '"'" '"> '''"
l<'oH..win« ll.is i„ a,„ „„„„ i„„„,„ .^ ^,,,^ ^ ^
"-.•,I,t,.. At this ti,„,, M,.. Hu,.,.,..,„. „ ZX^:
214 THE MISSISSIPFI RIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
up a careful consideration of the case for and on behalf of
Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor & Co.' He carefully compared
the Glazier writings with those of Schoolcraft, publishing an
account of his researches in an K.rtra FAucational Beporter,
in October, 1886.
The final announcement in this publication was the organ-
ization of The Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor & Co., Expedition
to supplement the work of Nicollet and Edwin S. Hall by a
careful examination of the Itasca Basin.
This expedition was placed in charge of Mr. Hopewell
Clarke who was connected with the Land Department of the
Northern Pacific railroad and is now Land Commissioner
for the St. Paul and Duluth railway at St. Paul, Min
nesota.
HOPEWELL CLARKE'S SURVEY.
Mr. Clarke selected two assistants, proceeded to Motley.
Minnesota, and thence by team and stage to Cat creek,
Park Rapids and to the south end of the east arm of Itasca
lake. His equipment consisted of a camping outfit, pocket
sextant, aneroid barometer, drainage level, thermometers,
hand level, surveyor's chai-n and compass, levelling rod
and pocket compass.
The party arrived at Itasca lake October l^th, 1886, and
at once embarked for the west arm without making any
special examination of the Mary creek and valley. They
camped between Elk and Itasca lakes and for five days
labored incessantly to d'scover the facts connected with the
source of the Mississippi. A critical examination of the
locality between Elk and Itasca lakes was had; Nicollet's
1 Publishers of Scliool-books at the City of Now York, who had refused to
Incorporate, In their pnl)lications, tliat Elk lake was the true .source.
SUKVKY OF THE HASIN.
1'15
-^ '^-#
HOPEWELL CLARKE'S MAP. 18K6,
216 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEli AND ITS SOUKCE.
Infant Mississippi was found to be the principal affiuent
and it was carefully explored to its source, which Mr. Clarke
determined to be at the Lake in the northwest quarter of
section 34, township 143, range 36, (Whipple lake), with no
connection with the lakes to the south. Underground pas-
sages forming artesian springs at lower levels were distinctly
noted, and a puzzling search for Nicollet's upper lake,
ended in the expressed opinion chat it w^as over a hill on the
east side of his middle lake, at a basin of water then exist-
ing, but now a dry bed. The feeders of Elk lake were
critically examined and traced to their sources. An exami-
nation of Mr. Clarke's map and a careful purusal of his
valuable report, impresses the reader with his anxiety to
secure and present nothing but the facts, and it is to be
regretted that the natural ability and readiness of percep-
tion so conspicuously demonstrated by him upon this
survey, were curtailed by the diminutive limit of five
days time. Under circumstances of that kind, it is not a
matter of surprise that he erroneously placed the summit of
the Hauteurs des Torres on his map ixnmediately border-
ing the south end of Whipple lake.
On December 7th, 1886. Mr. Clarke made a detailed report
of his survey to Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor & Co., who pub-
lished it in pamphlet form ^ .
1 In his report Mr. Clarke says:
"O'T little party of tlire - was fully satisflotl that fifty yeu,rs ago Nicollet had
discovered all there was to discover of the sources of the Mississippi, aud tliat if
he had lived to complete his report on tlie .sources of the Mississippi and the
North Red rivers and to give to tlie world his unpublished map, there would have
been no cliance for any Glazier to confuse tlie geographical world or to play triclts
upon the learned societies of two continents."
This pamphlet is entitled "The Source of the Mississippi."
SUKVKY OF TIIK BASIX. 217
The action'^ taken by Ivison, Blakeman. Taylor & Co.,
ai)pears to have been for the purposes of educational inter-
ests and publications.
2 Mr. Ifenry Gunnctt. VhM Topojrraphtr. rnito.l States Geological Survey,
11 has been claimed, first suggested the eousideralio.i si veil t^the question by this
company. •'
SUB-DIVrSTOX TWKXTV-FOnnH.
THE ASSISTANT SUPERINTENDENT OF PUBLIC IN-
STRUCTION FOR MINNESOTA AT ITASCA; HE DE-
SCRIBES THE LAKE AND ITS AFFLUENTS.
In 1887, a public institute was to have been held at Park
Rapids, Minnesota, under the auspices of the Department of
Public Instruction for Minnesota, but was abandoned.
Prof. T. H. Kirk, now the Assistant State Superintendent
of Public InstructioD. who was to have been conductor of the
i istitute, then proceeded to Lake Itasca upon i: tour of ob-
servation.
In response to a request for detailed information as to the
results of his observations there. Prof. Kirk submitted thf'
following interestingf paper:
"St. Paul, Minn., Dec. iHth, 1889.
On the 9th day of May, 1887, I was at Park Rapids, Hub-
bard county, with a few days of leisure at my disposal. This
fortunate circumstance of time and place enabled me to
carry out a cherished purpose; namely, to explore Lake
Itasca. An intense interest awakened during a historic re-
search in which I had followed the movements of Morrison,
Schoolcraft and Nicollet, gave zest to the undertaking i.
1 Professor Kiik is the autlior of ;i ScIkm)! History of Minnosotii.
^ -^ ■ —
ASSISTANT SUPKRINTKNDENT AT ITASt'A. 219
I invited Mr. F. A. Vanderpool, andayoun<^ man named
Patterson to accompany me. A span of horses, a light
spring wagon, an axe. a revolver, a Winchester ritie, to
which we added another of the same kind while in the woods,
made up our equipment, mechanical and defensive. A few
rations, mainly hard bread, constituted our food supply; for
we were to depend for subsistence upon game and such
supplies as one is able to purchase at a settler's cabin.
We began our journey about noon of the 10th. following
the single trail that leads toward .tsca. This trail extends
over ridges covered with jack pines, through tamarac
swamps, and anon over the stony summits of the Hautenrs
des Terres.
At Hay creek, a brace of the wagon tongue broke and a
mile farther on the other. The tongue itsc.f was soon
pulled out of the cross bar. With great difficulty, we
reached Lowe's cabin four miles farther on and half a mile
north of the trail. Here we found Mr. Green who had come
down from Lake Itasca to visit his daughter, Mrs. Lowe.
This was fortunate for us; for he was something of a car-
penter and promised to repair our wagon, as well as he
might with a few wood working tools and no blacksmith to
aid him.
After supper, with nothing to impede us but our fire arms
and scant rations, we pushed on foot through the dark
woods, whose silence was only broken by such sounds as the
occasional cry of a wild animal, and the tireless exhortation
of the whip-poor-will. Our route was still over the summits
of the Hauteurs des Terres, which in this section seem to be
composed of little else than boulders that, frequently crop-
ping out, obstruct the trail. We made only five miles that
tl'2i) THK MISSISSIPI'I KI\ KU AND ITS SOUKl.K
night and lod<j<'(l in a cabin which belonj^cd lo a bachelor
friend of Vanderpool. We accepted, in the owner's absence,
the mute invitation of his blankets and bed of pine bou<;hs.
In the morning, we breakfasted on boiled rice and black
coffee. Thus refreshed, we continued our journey.
We soon crossed the southeast divide of the lta.sca Basin,
not fa>' from the iron post* which marks the northeast corner
of Becker county, imd a corner of Beltrami county. From
this point, our course was northwest through a narrow
valley- lying between fertile ridges, for the most part
heavily timbered. In the center of the valley is a chain of
small but beautiful lakes more or less definitely connected'
by water courses. The last of the water courses'' empties
into the southeast arm of Lake Itasca.
My survey of the valley was quite cursory; but the max
imura volume of water pouring into Itasca, an apparent lack
of connection in the chain, the possibility, therefore, that
those farthest southeast are related to the drainage system
on the other side of the divide alluded to above, made it to
my mind an interesting ju'oblem in the final determination
of the source of the Mississippi.
We found Mr. Green's cabin on the summit of the hill
which is situated on the west side of the extremity of the
southeast arm of Itasca. A note tacked to his door directed
one to look for the key at the southeast corner of the cabin
under the shakes, and was a sufficient invitation to all, save
Indians and other illiterates, to accept his hospitable shelter
and whatever of good cheer was to be found within. We
1 At Sibilant l.ake.
2 Mary Valley.
3 Mary Creek.
ASSISTANT SUPEUINTKXDENT AT ITASCA. 221
were not slow to accejit. and fur two days nuid*' the cHbin
our base of supplies.
On Lhe swampy shore at the foot of the hill, we found an
old, leaky scow, and two broken paddles which when
mended served us for oars. In this uncertain craft, we
made the complete circuit of Lake Itasca.
Our first objective point was Schoolcraft Island where we
landed to bail out and take observations. We next visited
the Mississippi where it leaves the lake, roughly estimating
its width, depth, and volume of water, and observed the soft
alluvial character of its bed. We then pitched our camp on
the northeast shore. While we were here, the wind rose
and the white caps began to roll in the lake and threaten to
end our explorations for the day. But time was prpcious to
us, so we carefully ajusted our load in the scow, prepared
for swimming in case of need, and pushed out. The .scov/
shipped a part of every wave, and threatened momentarily
to capsize, but. by dint of bailing and persistent rowing, we
made the lee of points on the western shore and tinally that
of Schoolcraft Island, coming out at length in .he smoother
waters of the soathwest arm. We landed half way down
the eastern shore, then at the mouth of the outlet of Elk
Lake.
This lake is only a few rods from Itasca, and is separated
from it by a hillock ^ which is the extremity of a spur
of the Hauteurs des Terres. The outlet of the former lake
winds tortuously along the eastern base of the hillock
through the edge of a swamp. I determined to pole up
this stream. Vanderpool and Patterson both declared it
1 Morrison Hill.
L*2L' THb: MISSISSllM'l KIVKU AM) ITS SOLKCK.
impossible to do this. iMit «ro()dniitiir«Hlly labored to ]>lease
rae. And labor it was. as much lilce crossiu*^ a i)()rta«^e as
sailing. In most places, the real channel was very narrow,
making it ditticult to turn the curves, and .so shal-ow that
two had to get out and drag whih; the other remained in the
stern and pushed. Another dittlculty was to get under the
trees that had fallen across the stream. I doubt if a boat,
imless an Indian's canoe at flood watt'r. over ascended it
Ijofore.
By one standing at the summit of the liilloch. l>oth lakes
are seen near at hand; and it lias been many years, if ever,
since the forest trees were heavy enough to obstruct the
view. Only a short distance from Elk Lake, and separated
from it by the spur of tlie Ilautenrs (h's Terres, to wliich tlie
hillock belongs, tiows Nicollet Creek- where it debouches
into Itasca. We measured the volume of water in this
stream a few rods above the mouth, and estimated it to be
five or six times greater than that of Chambers Creek.
Taking these facts into consideration, together with the
statement of Nicollet and others, that the ultimate .source of
the creek bearing his name is four or five miles from Itasca,
much farther indeed than the ultimate sources of the Elk
lake inlets, I reached these conclusions:
First, if mere hydrographical observation is to determine,
to Nicollet belongs the honor of having discovered the
ultimate source of the Mississippi; because his map of 1836
is but a record of his personal explorations, showing all
these lakes and streams in relative topographical positions
and degree of importance.
Second, if priority of judgment is to determine, then too
2 Nicollet's lrif;iiit Mississippi river.
ASSISTANT SUl'HUINTKNDKNT AT ITASCA. *2'2i\
the honor of discovery is his; becauso lie tixed upon tho
source of the stream which bears his name.
Respectfully s\ibniittecl.
T. H. KIKK."
The examination of the streams at Lake Itasca, by Profos
sor Kirk, bears relation to the source to such an extent,
that the results of his examination are i?iven in full.
SUB-DTYISION TWEXTY-FTFTH.
THE DEFINITE ACTION OF THE MINNESOTA HIS-
TORICAL SOCIETY AS TO THE SOURCE OF THE
MISSISSIPPI; REPORT BY GEN. JAMES H. BAKSR
ADOPTED; APPOINTMENT OF A COMMISSIONER
ORDERED TO DEFINITELY SURVEY AND LOCATE
THE SOURCE.
The Minnesota Historical Society is a co-ordinate branch
of the State govern/nent, having been, by statutory enact-
ment, constituted a State institution, with its library, offices
and council rooms located at the State capitol. On the 8tli
of February, 1887, this State institution adopted a report,
written and presented by a committee of its members, pur
suant to the requirements of a resolution of December 13th.
1886, which reports rendered by Gen. James H. Baker, ex-
haustively presented facts then known to exist concerning
the source of the Mississippi. This report, which forms
part 1 of vol. VI of the historical collections, upon motion
of ex- Secretary of War Alexander Ramsey, was adopted.
1 In his report Gun. Baker says: ••Tl.e bold assu. .ption of tttu man Gluzibr i.i
without a parallel in the annals of Keographical history. Ills conduct Is a total
disregard of all the rules and dijinitiesof a true scientist. Scientinc knowledge
hiis scarcely bi'fore been made the prey of a charlatan. The measure of his as-
tounding fraud lia.s not yet fully penetrated the public mind."
ACTION OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY. I'lT)
Subsequently, February 11th. 1889, the Historical society
authorized an accurate survey of the source of the Mississ-
ippi river, and for that purpose issued, under seal, a commis-
sion, directed to the present Commissioner, requiring an
accurate survey of Lake Itasca and its surroundings, with
the view of determining by a thorough examination of the
spot, and of all its physical features, under all circumstances,
what is the true and actual source of the Mississippi river'.
Under the authority of this commission a hydrographic
exmination was conducted. - with results as noted in this
report to the society. The council of the society took effec-
tive steps to create and establish a permanent park reserva
tion at the source of the Mississippi, 85 square mi es in
exent.
1 A cotimiittee of the society wiis uppoiiited to confer witli the (.'oinruissioner
coiicerniug tl<e honor of a first discovery and to desifrnate proper iceographical
names.
2 The society, liaviuf; received a report from Mr. Willard Glazier in tlieforin of
an unauthorized, voluntary uorntnunication, conceruin;; tiie liydro;;rapliic condi-
tion of Elk lalce and nei^lihorin;; waters, appointed a committee to I'xaniine tlie
comninnication, and the followinj; rcpoit thereon was adopted:
"The special committee appointed Ijy you to consider tlie communication of
('apt. Willard Glazier relative to his alleged discovery of tlie source of the Missis-
sippi river, has to leport as follows;
First— His charts are hydrographic and topographic misrepresentations.
Second— His claim that among liis assistants were noted geograpliers and expert
engineers is a bold fiction apparently devised to mislead tlje credulous.
Third— Many of his assertions art! willful perversions of well estaljlished geo-
siraphic and liistor'c facts, and otiuTS betray a gross, and in th«( liglit of liis claims,
culpable ignorance concerning tlie country surrounding tlie head-waters of tlie
Mississippi.
Fourth— In tone Capt. (Jlazier's statements are discourteous to this society and
its representatives: to llie faithful living engineers and explorers wlio preceded
and followed liim. and a dislionor to the memory of Morrison, Schoolcraft and
Nicollet.
Fifth- Th'-oughout, Capt. Glazier, as on all other occasions when he liasdiscussed
this matter, seems to seeic a cheap notoriety, the only thing in the light of real dis-
covi'ries and explorations tliat is left to him.
For the reasons cited, your committee would respectfully recommenil that the
communication of Capt. Glazier be tabled as iu every sense unworthy of your
adopthm. "T. If. Kiuk.
.ToHN U. Sanborn,
N. H. WiNCHEIiL,
—15 Committee."
2:21) thf: Mississippi riveu and its source.
During the period of time, when the controversy, touch-
ing the relative importance of Itasca and Ellc lalces, was at
its height, no member of any society in the world took
greater interest in the matter, than J. Fletcher Williams, the
secretary of the Historical Society of Minnesota. As a re-
sult of his watchful care, there has been deposited with the
society all the available literature and clippings, from every
clime, having special reference to this matter, and his ser
vices in creating the Itasca State park and securing a public
grant of lands from the government therefor, have demon-
strated his conspicuous interest in the matter. The society
as a body has continuously depended upon Mr. Williams to
superintend the care of whatever it has done in the matter as
a society and the corresponding membership of similar
bodies throughout the world have found in him a preferable
reference for information and knowledge, always correct in
statements of fact.
Concerning the history of the explorations of Morrison,
Pike, Cass, Beltrami, Schoolcraft and Nicollet, Mr. Wil-
liams' accurate knowledge coupled with a ready memory, is,
in itself, almost an invaluable reference. It seems unneces-
sary to say that he has a supreme contempt for those who
have so persistently misrepresented the historical ana geo-
graphic facts concerning Itasca lake and the region be
yond it.
SUB-DIVISION TWKXTY-SIXTH.
THE CASUAL EXAMINATION OF J. V. BROWER
AND COMPANIONS; THE GREATER MAN-TRAP
BASIN: THE PARTY ARRIVE AT ITASCA LAKE
AND EXPLORE THE SOURCE.
On the '2d of October, 1888, the writer of this report in
company with Mr. W. A.
Avery 1, of Frankfort, In-
diana, and Mr. John Leyen-
decker, formerly of the
Adirondack mountains, New
York, determined to make
an unostentatious visit to
the Itasca Basin 2. Reach-
ing Park Rapids. Minne-
sota, soon after, and visit-
ing Sand lake and the
greater Man-Trap basin
with its flowing stream and
no visible outlet, a char
acteristic of the Hauteurs
des Terres, the party reach- •"»nx levexdeckeh.
ed the north end of Itasca lake. October 19th, with no
1. Rec't'iitly deceased.
'2. Mr. N. W. Kit-e .ioiiied the piirty in ilie moiitli of Xuvtiuber and roniaiiu'd
in camp at Green's cabin several days.
i:-^' THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AM> ITS SOUUCK.
instruments for observation more than a pocket compass,
steel tape and general outfit of a party away for pleasure
and recreation. The Itasca Basin was selected as the
destination of the party, pursuant to a detorminatior to
visit the scenes at the headwaters of the Mississippi river.
Very naturally, the historic locality bro' *" nemories of
its discovery, and jealousies and dispute.-^ to the true
source, and. without the hope of reward, other than a
personal knowledge of facts, the writer of these pages
commenced a personal examination of the Basin witli no
other instruments than hereinbefore stated, for personal
satisfaction and information. The great river on its
CDurse northwest from Itasca lake was visited and founa to
be an ordinary stream of no special i)ecularities, with
willow thickets, balsam-fir groves, a range of hills on either
side and the surroundings ordinarily attendant in a pine
region. Fire had mjiterially destroyed the growth of pines
and many hills were nude; underbrush, old fallen and burnt
timber, and a general air of an uninhabited wilderness pre-
vailed. Next was visited in a comfortable boat, Schoolcraft
island and the east arm of the lake; camp was then moved to
the south end of the east arm; the west arm was visited.
Elk lake and its creek, the Nicollet's Infant Mississippi and
lakes, Whipple lake, and the creek running north from it;
Boutwell creek, the dense forest south of Elk lake and its
creeks; Mary valley and its creeks and lakes; the numerous
springs of tl e Basin, the surrounding hills — and every day
from October 19th until November 17th. 1888. some portion
of the Basin was examined in a casual way, until a very
good general idea of the more prominent features of the
locality was gained Running water was accurately meas-
A CASl-Af, EXAMINATION.
!'''*.•
(omI^ /fni
u
^/V ,v\-5
•r. V. i:r(.\vki{-s sket( ii map ok itasc a lake, lj<88.
2S0 THK MISSISSIPPI lilVEK AND ITS SOUKCE.
iireil and its tlowagc timfd and th<' i)repondorance of Nicol-
let's Infant Mississippi over all the other streams at that
time, ascertained beyond any doubt' on the part of those
present. A detailed memorandum of these explorations
was noted down from day to day, and on the 17th of
November, 1888. the party broke camp and returned to
their respective homes.
A correspondent of the Daily Pioneer Press, communica-
ting with that paper from a distant part of the State, mis-
stated the facts of this visit to Itasca lake, and it became
necessary to correct the errors so appearing by a communi-
cation to the columns of that paper under date of December
1st, 1888.
With this communication appeared a small sketch map.
made only from observation in a casual way, with no more
extended measurements than a careful test of the current,
depth, width and tlowage of the several streams supplying
Itasca lake.
This map was re-drawn at Philadelphia or elsewhere,
grossly distorted, and in the latter form, published by Wil-
lard Glazier as an argument in his own behalf, and the com-
munication was criticised by individuals having for an appar-
ent purpose the setting aside, or rather an appropriation of,
the honors of discovery due Wm. Morrison, Henry R. School-
craft and Jean N. Nicollet.
An open letter was published challenging the correctness
of Mr. Glazier's claims to original discovery, in which was
formulated proper and reasonable avenues for redress, in
case his claims were geniiine and true.
No reply has been made to the challenge, after a lapse of
several years.
A CASUAL EXAMINATION. 231
Following this visit to Itasca lalie, application in i)(.M-son
was made to the Minnesota Historical Society for authority
to definitely examine and survey the source of the Missis-
sippi river.
The application was granted and the commission issued .
On the 8th day of March, following, all arrangements for
an expeditionary examination having been consummated,
the survey was proceeded with, partly upon the frozen sur-
face of the lakes, and continued after the rainfall of the
spring season, and during the summer and autumn months,
which presented opportunities for extended observations
and measurements.
The results of this examination, with a detailed hydro-
graphic chart, were reported to the historical society. The
chart was published in l»yi.
SrB-l)TVlSI()\ TWKATV-SEVEXTH.
THE ITASCA STATE PARK; THIRTY FIVE SQUARE
MILES OF TERRITORY AT THE SOURCE OF THE
MISSISSIPPI FOREVER DEDICATED TO THE PUB
LIC; A COMMISSION APPOINTED. AND A TOPO
GRAPHIC SURVEY COMPLETED; A FINAL CHART.
It has been known that the lake ronrion of Minnesota, a
large portion of which is called the "Park region." owing to its
elegant lakes, picturesque groves of timber, forests, fertile
l~»rairies. and flowing waters, afforded many opportunities
for a public State park, but no organized effort for a State
l)ark seems to have been made until 1890, when Mr. Emil
Geist, of St. Paul, submitted to the State Historical Society
a suggestion in writing, i that the region about the source
of the Mississii)pi be secured and set apart for that purpose.
It was also recommended by Professor N. H. Winchell of
the Geological and Natural History Survey. The location
is remote from and outside of the Park region of the State.
There seems to b6 some doubt as to the identity of the
first suggestion of the creation of the park, but the first
definite suggestion that can be found, w'as made by Mr.
1 Mr. Geist's letter U) the society, enclosed iin editorial from the pen of Mr.
.loscpli A. Wlieelock. ably advocatinjf a measure of tliat l<iiid, in the St. Paul
Daily Pionorr Press.
(;e.\. JOHN n. sANMohrx.
THK ITAS'A STATE I'AHK. 1'83
Alfred J. Hill. March 2Hth, 1HH«>. Mr. Hill says lio dors not
know that his suggostion was the first one made.
The Historical Society appointed a committee from its
council membership, which leported. and tlu> matter was
tinally placed in the charfje of (Jen. John B. Sanborn, as a
Senator, in the State legislature, (ien. Sanborn introduced
a measure establishing and creating "The Itasca State
park," to be composed of thirty-tive square miles of ter-
ritory at Itasca lake, to be forever dedicated to the public,
and the measure passed and became a law. The Governor,
by executive appointment, ' selected the Commissioner of
the Historical Socie y. to also act as the Commissioner of
the State park.
One of the duties imposed by law upon the Commissioner,
was the preparation of a detailed chart of the park, and in
performing the duties required by the law, a special topo-
graphic survey and examination was made during the year
1891, the results of which show that practically all the
1 STATK OF MINNE.^OTA. I
EXEIUTIVE DeI'AKTMENT. f
WUliaiu It. Mt'rrlaiii, (iovfrnor of s,i id State, to .1. V. Browerof Ramsey county,
sends greetinj;:
lii'poslnjf especial trust and I'onfidcnee In your prudence, integrity and ability.
1 luive appointed you, the said.l. V. Flrower. iis coniniissioiicr of the Ilasca State
park, pursuant to an act of the legislature of tliis State, approved April 20th, 1891.
Vou are therefore by these presents appointed and Commissioned Coniniissioner
of the Itasca State park, as aforesaid, to have and to liold the said ottice. tcgetlier
with all the rights, powers and emoluments to the said office belonging or by law
in anywise appertaining, until tli is commission shall l)e by me or other lawful
authority superseded or annulled, or expire by force or reason of any law of ihls
Slate.
Is Testimosv Whereof. I h-ivc iicreunto set my name and caused the Great
Seal of tlie Stateof Minnesota to lie affixed at the Capitol, in tlie ('ity of St. I'aul,
tills fourth day of May. in tlie year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and ninety-one and of the State the tliirty-third.
By the Governor,
WILLIAM K. MEUKIAM.
,, „T F. P.Brown,
^'" '^■^ Secretary of State.
234 THE MISSISSIPPI HIVER AND ITS SOUKCE.
lakes and streams within the Itasca Basin are included in
the designated territory.
The hydrographic sur'ey- of 1889 and tlie topographic
examination of 1891, maie by the same Commissioner, have
been combined, from which has been prepared a tinal chart '
of the source of the Mississippi river, so far as the present
examination is concerned. It is claimed for this tinal chart
that it excels in correctness of detail and the location of
lakes and streams, elevations, topography and physical
features, any chart of the locality that has ever been made,
and it is herewith reported, with the complete results of the
two surveys combined, so far as the same relate to the geo-
graphical question as to what particular waters constitute
the source of the Mississippi river.
The Hon. J. N. Castle, member of Congress from Minne-
sota, by conspicuous ability and tact, has secured the pas-
sage of a bill by the Congress, granting to the State the gov-
ernment lands situated within the park to oe forever used
for j)ark purposes.
1 Set' Detailed Hydrographic and Topograpliic eliart of the Itasca State I'aik.
1892. facing f roulespiece
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SrB-DTVTSTOX TWENTY-ErOHTH.
THE DETAILED EXAMINATIONS AND SURVEYS OF
THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, CON-
DUCTED UNDER THE PERSONAL DIRECTION AND
SUPERVISION OF J. V. BROWER. COMMISSIONER
The drainage basin of the Mississippi river extends from
the Gulf of Mexico, at the mouth of the river, to an ultimate
limit above and beyond Itasoa lake. This great basin, more
than 1,000,000 square miles in extent, is bordered on the
east by the Alleghany and other ranges, and on the west by
the Rocky mountains, and contains about 100.000 rivers and
streams, which How toward and finally discharge their
waters into the Mississippi, principally through the mouths
of the larger and more important confluent and affluent
tributary rivers. These waters are entirely supplied by the
copious precipitation characteristic of the fertile basin
drained, from north to south, by the Mississippi as its
principal and most important river.
To follow the proper rule in ascertaining, under com-
mission, the true and actual source of this principal river,
for geographic purposes. European and American geo-
graphers, scientists and authorities, were consulted and the
230 THE MISSISSII'IM UIV'KU AND ITS SOURCE.
follo\^iii<^ varied information as to what constituted the
source of a river was gained:
"That the main stream of a river is that which Hows
along the lowest depression of the basin, and that a tri-
butary which descends into it from a higher elevation, even
if longer, is not to be considered the main stream."
•"A river cannot have a source, but many sources."'
'• A'.i our rivers have their source in tlie clouds. "-
" The head of the longest continuous channel."
*• The sources of a river which are in a right line with its
mouth, particularly when they issue from a cardinal point
and flow to the one directly opposite."-^
"The true source of a river is a jioint at tlie remotest
distance from its mouth, but the largest lake must not b«.'
rejected to accept one of less magnitude."*
Other authorities, some remote, and but a few reliable,
suggest that the source must be a lake; must be the largest
lake; should be the inner flanks of the heights of the land
surrounding it; should be the source, because it was next
to the historic pass, by which one river had, from ancient
times, been left to reach another; because it was farthest
from the mouth of the system; because it led down to the
axis of the general valley of the basin; ' cause it was at the
head of the stream of largest volume; because it w^as geol-
ogically oldest, etc.
This widespread variance of authorities, good, bad and
1 Should this be t lie proper rule, the Mississippi would have ;i Imiidred llniu>-
iind sources, more oi' less.
2 This is from a standard educational work, given as a basis for tlieoreticai
deduction.
U The rule followed by Beltrami in locating the Julian source.
4 This rule, if followed strictly, would place the source in Winnibigoshish lalie,
the largest lake through which the main ri',-er passes.
THK COMMISSIONEK's DETAILED SURVEY. l'37
indifferent, gave but liltk' comfort, in an interesting geo-
graphic and historic research, the source of no two princi-
pal rivers of the world being alike.
The conditions and peculiarities of the more important
drainage basins of the earth, are so varied and widely dif-
f«'rent, that geographic terminology in respect of the term
•'source" is at fault, and until some more definite and con-
clusive understanding is reached as to the term ••source of
a river" in geographic science, it would seem that thc^re was
a necessity to follow and adopt the literal meaning of the
word, for this present time and occasion, in the absence of a
naore explicitly defined propriety and signification. The
standard authority gives the meaning of '"source"" as "to
spring forth or up." "The place from which anything pro-
ceeds." "That from which anything rises or comes forth. ""
••Especially, the spring or fountain from which a stream of
water proceeds, or any collection of water within the earth,
or upon its surface, in which a stream originates."' "A
spring." "Fountain."" An original beginning of the stream
is sought, and nature presents its own best method and law.
and that method and law do not in any sense dictate that a
lake must be selected as the source, for the word does not in
any sense whatever mean, the body of a lake. The great
majority of the rivers of the world have no lakes at their re-
spective sources. Then we must discover, know and de-
scribe ''the source" of the Mississippi. The river originates
in a swampy, lacustrine region, and the location of the
source has not been an easy task. All of the facts are now
given, from which theoretical deductions are eliminated.
Theorists may select a choice of location, while the senti-
ment of a widely acknowledged recognition in favor of
i'38 THK MISSISSIIMM KiVKlC AND ITS SOURCE.
Itasca lakt! still continuos. But it must b«» a'-knowlcdp'd
that "the sj)riu<?s' iroiu wliicli Itasca draws its ])rincipal
supply aro above and beyond it. and tlioy are lilcewise above
and beyond Klk lake.
For these I'oasons, and in the absence of any fundamental
term upon which to proceed, a reliable rule of no uncertainty,
the rule dictat(»d by nature, in ascertaining? where the water.*'
were gathered which form the remotest source of the Miss
issippi. was adopted, and for that purpose the length of the
main river in statute miles, up through the valley of the
basin, was ascertained from the otticial records of the United
States gov^ernment and otherwise, by these combined sur-
veys and measurements from the Gulf to the Itasca Basin.
THE LENGTH OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
The length of. the principal rivers of the terrestrial glob< .
always interesting and instructive, has, from time to time,
been ascertained and given, usually from estimates based
upon astronomical observations for the position of the mouth,
the source, and principal intermediate points.
To accurately ascertain the length of a river would retiulre
the adoption of some rule for the measurement, either:
1st. A shore line.
2nd. A line along the center of the stream ec^ui-distant
from each bank of the river, or —
3rd. A. line along the thread of the main channel of water.
The proposition of measurement contained in the '2nd and
3rd rule, if adopted as a base of operation, would require a
system of stationary floats the entire length of the river,
and for that reason is deemed impracticable, tiiough the
third rules lays down the correct manner of ascertaining the
7.
V.
y.
i. •-
THK fOMMIHSIONKUS UKTAILKI) SlUVKY. 289
trut? and actual length of a stn^aii. of lunnin^' w titer, subject
to natural oi* nu'chanical chaii'^os.
From the time of tho tirst discovery of the Mississippi to
the present date, various estimates have been made as to its
length.
With a view to a more concise and accurate statement
than has hitherto been possible to make, especial efforts
have been made *> ascertain and state its true lenffth. based
principally upon shore-lino measurements.
It has not been thouj;ht advisable, however, to take into
account as regards the ujjper part of its course at least, tlie
ine made by the thread of the current in the main channel,
even if obtainable, for the reason that it would be subject to
constant revision and would have to be taken with that un-
derstanding, and, therefore, be practically useless as a basis
for popular comparison.
The lentjftli of tlie lower portions of the river, as ascer-
tained by the authorities of the United States, is adopted
as a true length, for the purposes of this report, founded as
it is upon scientitic principles of civil engineering, and
painstaking action thereunder.
By combining the distances derivable from three con-
nected surveys, the total length of the channel of the river in
all its windings, from the Guli of Mexico to the foot of
Itasca lake, can now be given:
From the Gulf of Mexico at S. W. pass to New Orleans. . 1 1 1 .00 miles
Thence to the mouth of the Ohio river 9Go.50 "
ThencetotheCity of St. Louis 182.00 "
Thence to the mouth of the Illinois river .39.00 "
Thence to Hannibal 102.25 "
Thence toQuincy bridge 20.00 '^
Thence to Keokuk 41.00 "
Thence to Burlington 46.50 "
240 THE MISSlSSIi'l'I UIVKU AND ITS SOUKCI-:.
Thencc! to Rock Island 82. oOiuiles.
Thence to Dubuque 107.25 "
Thence to Prairie duChien (52.00 "
Thence to La Crosse • 72. 25 "
Thence to St. Paul 156.00 "
Thence to Falls of St. Anthony (Minneapolis) i:{.00 "
Thence to outlet of WinniV)igoshish lake 4;]2.50 '•
Total by U. S. Engineers 2,432 . 75 miles
Thence to Govemmtuit meander, at intersection of
Range 36, West of 5th Meridian by U. S. Deputy
Surveyors itC. 50 '
Thence to Itasca lake by .J. \'. Brower, Com"r 17.27 "
Total from Gulf to Itasca lake 254().52 milis
Thus it appeared that the main river of the Mississippi
basin extends from the Gulf of Mexico to the Itasca Basin, a
limited, permanent depression upon the surface of the earth
at the ultimate source of the river, subsidiary to the main
basin below it.
The geologic and natural features predicating this con-
clusion, are so well known and established, that no reference
to them seems necessary in this connection, excepting the
possibility that the Missouri river, remotely suggested by
occasional inquirers, might be called the main river; but in-
asmuch as it is a confluent branch of the main stream, com-
ing in at one side, similar to the Ohio and Red rivers, there
is no good reason for discussing that question at this time.
The historic data, which have brought to our notice and
knowledge the existence of the main river extending from
the Gulf to the Itasca Basin, where it takes its rise, indica-
ting the discovery of the Mississippi, by piecemeal, is co-
extensive with the discovery of the coast line of North
America, and the facts are indisputable, in consequence of
which the question as to the ultimate source of the main
THE commissioner's DETAILED SURVEY. 241
river, must be based upon the facts as they have been found
to exist at, above and beyond Itasca lake. To definitely de-
termine those facts it became a necessity, to ascertain
whence came the waters of Itasca lake. That necessity re-
quired a definite line of levels in the field, to ascertain ele-
vations above the sea. The official reports of the United
States government give the elevations to and including Cass
lake, and an actual line of levels across the country from
the railroad system of Minnesota to Itasca lake, run iu 1889,
and corrected by a second actual line, run from Park Rapids,
Minn., in December 1891, demonstrates its actual elevation
above the sea at its outlet. The la Iway levels connect with
the government levels, and these ascertained elevations used
in connection with this examination are believed to be, as
corrected, very reliable, as great care has been exercised,
recently, to perfect them.
The tabulated elevations, shov/ing the sea levels, are not
only as interesting, but deemed to be just as necessary, as
the ascertained distances from the Gulf:
THE SEA LEVELS.
Elevation at the surface of the water at:
Gulf of Mexico 0.0 feet.
City of St. Louis :}84.8 '•
Mouth of the Illinois 399.4 "
Hannibal 444.9 "
Quincy 453.8 "
Keokuk 472.3 "
Burlington 505. 1 "
Rock Island 5^3.7 "
Dubuque 578.2 "
Prairie du Chien 597.5 "
LaCrosse 621.2 "
St. Paul 680.5 "
-16
242 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
Above St. Anthony Falls 782.0 feet.
Below Pokegania Falls 1248.0 "
Above Pokegania Falls 1269.8 "
Winnibigoshish Lake 1292.8 "
Cass Lake 1302.8 "
To Itasca lake by a preliminary line in the month of
April, 1889, from the Great Northern Railway system,
at a located, but unconstructed railroad line, near
Craig's crossing upon the Mississippi, nine miles north
of Itasca lake, and a test line from the end of the track
of the Great Northern branch line at Park Rapids,
Minn., to the surface of the water at Itasca lake, defi-
nitely run in the month of December, 1891, determines
the correct elevation to be 1457.0 '"
The test line from Park Rapids to Itasca lake, is believed
to be entirely trustworthy and reliable.
With the distances and elevations ascertained, the survey
of the ultimate source, commenced in March, 1889, upon the
frozen surface of Itasca lake, at the center of the channel of
the river, at its debovchure, from the extreme north end of
the lake.
At a remote age, the Itasca Basin was formed, obtaining-
an existence from the lap of nature, an indenture upon the
surface, oblong, irregular and limited, nearly surrounded
by the summits of the Hauteurs des Terres, properly belong-
ing to, and a part of, the extensive basin, containing a
thousand lakes and streams, which forms, above Pokegama
Falls, and north of the Itasca moraine, an upper or head-
water drainage basin of the Mississippi. The subsidiary
1 Great Northern Railway Line, St. Paul, Minn., Jan. 2, 1892.
.r. V. Brower, Es(i.— Dear Sir:— In answer to your letter to Otto, would say, the
bottom of the tie at depot at Park Rapids is an elevation of 1428 feet .above sea level.
N. D. MILLER, Ciiief Engineer.
Adding the thickness of tie, surface n.odiflcation, and elevation of water sur-
face at Itasca lake gives— 14.t6.86, a corrected elevation of 1457 feet above sea level,
correcting the error, i;ppearlng on chart of 1891, as 1470 feet, caused by commen-
cing at the wrong bench-uiark, near Craig's crossing, by a careless employee, who
was discharged for wilful neglect and incompetency.
THE commissioner's DETAILED SURVEY. 243
basin at Itasca lake, is nothing more than the extreme limit
of the upper drainage or headwater basin, the most remote
and the most elevated above the sea level.
At that unknown age the limited Itasc" Basin, about seven
miles long and less than five in width, '^as probably the
bed of one lake, with bays and islands anu ,. aches. That
this is true, is beyotd the inference of a mere conjecture,
although it is not probable that its waters extended nearly
to the summits of tne heights of land found there, where
there may have been other lakes. The Geological and
Natural History Survey of Minnesota, may be able to solve
an interesting problem as to what waters then constituted the
source. Was it Lake Upham?^
From this one lake of unknown ages, by erosion, the
waters, probably having been increased by copious precipi-
tation, cut their way through the ice formation and alluvial
stratum, to a natural condition of the river bed, as it now
exists, immediately below Itasca lake. This process of
nature, the waters passing to lower levels, has given us
numerous lakes and lakelets, within the Itasca Basin,
systematically divided apart, each of a different elevation,
up the inner flanks of the Hauteurs des Terres, surrounding
the whole, from the summits of which the waters are
returned to the oceans, through Hudson's bay and the Gulf
of Mexico.
Lines of measurement to ascertain correct distances, and
of levels to determine elevations, were extended to and up
through the trough of these localities, and to all other locali-
1 la June, 1891, this extinct lake was named Lake Upham, by Prof. Geo. B.
Aitonand J. V. Brewer in honor of Prof. Warren Upham who has so carefully
demonstrated the former existence of the extinct Lake Agassiz, at the valley of
the North Red river.
244 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS SOUKCE.
ties, on either side, where was found surface drainage,
regardless of how unimportant the smaller brooks and
streamlets might appear,, carefully bearing in mind the
preeminent fact, that the examination of headwater rivers
and streams, and topographic surroundings, not simply some
one or other particular lake of the locality, constituted the
principal and paramount object, that the question might be
carefully considered, and a correct answer, definitely stated,
from ascertained hydraulic conditions, during a continuous
period, covering the spring, summer, autumn and winter
months, carefully noting all changes caused by meteorolo-
gical influences.
BASE LINE ESTABLISHED.
Noted in the daily record of this examination is found
written, at Patterson's cabin, the fact that the northwest
corner of Hubbard county. Minnesota, the official corner of
four government townships, thence west along the township
line between Township 143, Range 36, and Township 144,
Range 36, (west of the Fifth Principal Meridian) which
crosses the north extremity of Itasca lake, should be
adopted as a base line of operations, from which all
measurements at and above Itasca lake, should be made
and computed.
EQUIPMENT.
The following instruments and material were selected and
used, during the continuance of this survey and examina-
tion:
One solar compass, one sextant, one chronometer, three
th^^rmometers, four aneroid barometers, one nautical
almanac, 1889, one ephemeris, one theodolite, one transit,
ore chronograph, one large field level, one field glass, one
s
y.
y.
yf-
y.
IT— 5 "T »■, ■ .* _ I
^^'^•^:>-. %.''*^I-S
THE COMMISSIONER'S DETAILED SURVEY. 245
self-reading leveling rod, one steel tape, two surveyor's
chains, two cameras, one drafting table, one row toat and
one canoe, drafting paper, vellum, tin tubes, official govern-
ment plats and field notes, surveyor's engraving tools,
pocket compasses, note-books, drafting scale, rules, large
tent, writing materials, journals of record and a miscella-
neous list of necessary and convenient articles ,
DATES AND TIME OCCUPIED.
The casual examination, which was the foundation for
subsequent official examinations, occupied the time from Oc-
tober 2d, to November 17th, 1888.
The present official examinations and surveys were initia-
ted March 4th, 1889, and continued without interruption, in
the field and at St. Paul, Minn., until completed.
The actual time spent at the Itasca Basin and the dates
are as follows:
October 19th to November 17th, 1888 Thirty days.
March 12th to May 1st 1889 Forty-eight days.
August 1889 Five days.
September 1889 Five days.
June and July, 1891, as State Park Com'r. .Forty-one days.
Octooer and Nov., 1891, •' •• . .Twenty-five days.
December, 1891, " " ..Six days.
Making a total of more than five months time of actual
surveys and examinations in the field. The time occupied
in the preparation of reports and charts, covered a much
longer period.
No Indians or guides were employed.
EMPLOYMENT OF INDIVIDUAL SERVICE.
During the continuance of the surveys and examinations,
the following persons were employed from time to time.
246 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEU AND ITS SOURCE.
J. V. Brower, Commissiouer in Charge.. St. Paul, Minn.
Peter TurnbuU, Civil Engineer and Sur-
veyor Park Rapids,
Maj. Charle.s Wanzer, Civil Engineer. . . .St. Paul,
Charles A. Hunt, Civil Engineer St. Paul,
E. Hayes. Surveyor Minneapolis,
Frederick Kribs, Surveyor Park Rapids,
W. A Hayden, Topographer Detroit.
Henry Boh all, Rodman Park Rapids,
Andrew Lange, Axman and Chainmau. . . .Itasca Lake.
B. McMullan. " •• " ... .Itasca Lake,
Wm. McMullan, " " " .... Itasca Lake,
Benjamin Inman, •' '• " ... .Park Rapids.
E. Trask, Elk Lake,
William Parks, Transportation Park Rapids.
John Eddy, • • Verndale.
John Meguire, " Park Rapids.
H. C. Mead, •■ Park Rapids.
Prof. D. C. Rhodes. Photographer Verndale,
F. J. Haynes, " St. Paul,
E. S. Hill, " St. Cloud,
Miss Beulah V. Bryden, Stenographer. . .St. Paul,
R. B. Brower, " . . .St. Cloud,
Miss Minnie Dassel, *• ...St. Paul,
W. H. Frisbie, Landscape Artist St. Paul,
C. F. Jewett, Draughtsman St. Paul,
And several others for brief periods of time.
Specific duties of a portion of the employes, were per-
formed elsewhere than at Itasca lake.
CORRESPONDENTS.
During the time occupied in this examination, numerous
officials and individuals were consulted, and from the list,
the following are noted:
The Hon. Secretaries of State for Michigan, Wisconsin.
THE (!oMMISSIONEK'S DETAILED SURVEY. 1*47
Illinois, Missouri. Iowa, Tennessee. Arkansas. Kentucky, Mis-
sissippi, Louisiana and Minnesota, for records, maps. etc.
A committee of the Minnesota Historical Society, consist-
ing of Captain R. Blakely. Hon I. V. D. Heard and Mr.
Charles D. Elfelt, appointed by request, for consultation as
to orij^inal discovery, sources, and the selection of proper
geographical designations for unnamed lakes and streams
within the Itasca Basin, and to harmonize designations for
lakes beai'ing more than one name, and to eliminate names
improperly applied.
Hon. Alexander Ramsey Ex Sec'y of War.
Gen. H. H. Sibley St. Paul, Minn.
Rev. W. T. Boutwell Stillwater,
Rev. J. A. GilfiUan White Earth, "
Mrs. Jane Howard Richmond, Va.
Mrs. Georgiana Demaray St. Paul. Minn.
A. H. Siegfried, Eso New York City.
Julius Chambers, Esq New York City.
Hopewell Clarke, Esq St. Paul, Minn.
Prof. N. H. Winchell State University "
Prof. Warren Upham Boston, Mass.
Geo. S. Frost, Esq Detroit, Mich.
Edwin S. Hall, Esq Sauk Rapids, Minn.
Charles Lanman, Esq Washington, D. C.
Hon. Cushman K. Davis U. S. Senate.
The Register U. S. Land Office Crookston, Minn.
The Surveyor General's Office St. Paul,
The General Land Office Washington, D. C.
Hon. S. G. Comstock, M. C Washington,
The War Department Washington,
Office of Chief of Engineers Washington,
Alfred J. Hill, Esq St. Paul, Minn.
Rev. Edward D. Neill, D. D St. Paul,
Mrs. O. E. Garrison Garrison, "
248 THK MIS.SISS11»I'I KlVEIl AND ITS SOURCE.
Prof. T. H. Kirk. Dept. of Public Instruc
tion St. Paul, Minn.
J. H. Rhodes, Esci Little Palls,
Mrs. Helen Hulbert Detroit, Mich.
Hon. W. H. C. Folsom Taylors Falls, Minn.
N. D. Miller, Chief Engineer GreatNorthernRyCo
Wm. A. Trucsdell, C. E St. Paul, Minn.
The West Point Military Academy West Point, N. Y.
The Land Department of the Northern
Pacific Railway St. Paul, Minn.
The Chicago Historical Society Chicago, 111.
Messrs. J. M. Barnes and LucienWulsin, of Ohio.
She-na wi-gi-shick, an Ojibway Indian. . Tjeech Lake.
Rev. Jeremiah Porter Beloit, Wisconsin.
The American Geographical Society New York.
The Royal Geographical Society , . . . London.
Mr. Cyrus C. Adams New York.
Mr. Geo. C. Hurlbut New York.
Prof. W. M. Davis Harvard College.
Prof. Geo. B. Alton Minneapolis, Minn.
The Goldthwaites New York.
The Wisconsin Historical Society Madison, Wis.
Prof. T. H. Lewis St. Paul, Minn.
Gen. James H. Baker Garden City,
Hon. J. N. Castle, M. C Washington, D. C.
Emil Geist, Esq St. Paul, Minn.
Rev. W. E. Hopkins Park Rapids,
Prof. L. J. Curtis Park Rapids,
A. T. Warner, Esq St. Paul,
Henry R. Cobb, Esq Park Rapids,
Mr. J. C. Crane West Millbury, Mass
Hon. C. D. Cutting Riceville, Iowa.
John Leyendecker, Esq Sauk Centre, M inn.
Col. W. P. Clough St. Paul,
Hon. T. F. Oakes New York.
Rev. Stanley A. McKay Owatonna, Minn.
- X
1. ~
THE COMMISSIONEU'S DETAILED SITUVKY. 249
M.-. Henry Gannett Washinjjrton. D. C.
And a large number of others
INCEPTION OB^ THE OFFICIAL SURVEY.
Distances wore found as follows from the northwest cor-
ner of Hubbard county, Minnesota, alonf? the base 'ine
adopted, to the east shore, north arm of Itasca lake:
U. S. Government Survey S., •}.')() feet.
True distance, by direct transit line 8.476 "
The Government line officially established in li-(75, is plain
and distinct over a rough, broken and brushy region. On
the east shore of Itasca, are located the Government witness
trees and meander corner )n the township lino mentioned,
and immediately across the north point of the lake on the
west shore, the official meander corner and one witness tree.
At this meander corner on the townshii) line, on the west
shore of the north arm of Itasca lake, was erected an oak
landmark, bearing a sufficient inscription.
From this land-mark, north, )}' 4o' west 20H.7 feet is
found the center of the main channel of the Mississippi
river as it proceeds from Itasca lake. In the centre of that
channel, below the bed of tliD stream, was placed another
oak land mark, properly eigraved.
From this post, imbedded in the centre of the main channel
of the river at the north end of Itasca lake, the measure-
ments commenced, and thence were continued to the utter-
most parts of the Itasca Basin, containing lakes, bodies of
water, springs, pools and running streams.
ITASCA LAKE.
The formation of Itasca lake is a small body of v/ater at
and around Schoolcraft island, and three long, narrow arms
ll'iO THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
projecting — one to the southeast, one t«.> the southwest, and
one to the north — from the last of which the waters of the
Mississii)pi pass out from the lake. From the southeast
and southwest extremities of the lake, picturesque valleys
extend, denominated Mary valley and Nicollet valley, re-
spectively, and up these valleys numerous lakes exist, each
at a higher elevation as you pass up the respective valleys,
than the one below, and each valley is drained by a stream
of perennial flowage.
Nature's unerring law constitutes these two streams, by
reason of their length and importance, its principal surface
channels, through which, the inflow to Itasca lake is the
most abundantly supplied, with a minimum fluctuation and
an unyielding certainty. These are Nicollet's Infant Missis-
sippi river and Mary creek.
All others come in at the side, are shorter, and less im-
portant.
SOUNDINGS.
The soundings taken, were not sufficient upon which to
base an accurate calculation of the cubic gallons of water
contained in the lake. The depth of water varies from four
to fifty and sixty feet; an ordinary depth of from twenty to
thirty-five feet was sounded in numerous places. The
deepest sounding reported w^as off Turnbull point. The
width of the lake varies from one-sixth to three-fourths of a
mile. Many precipitous hills, covered with a growth of
pine timber, nearly surround it, among which it is deeply,
imbedded. The shores are, in places, lined with boulders,
thickly bordered with overhanging flora, characteristic of
the locality, making it practically impossible to pass along
at the water's edge, on foot; at occasional points along the
a: ■_,
THE t;OMMISSIONKR'S DETAILKD SURVEY. 251
shores, sprinf^s of pure, cold water appear, around which
<-lustor balsam, fir, spruce, the native tamarac, willow,
aspen, ash and birch, with pine groves higher uo. In the
summer season, a narrow rim of rushes and water grass
extend, practically the entire distance around the lake.
There are no sand beaches there. A continuous drouth of
several years recently occurred, during which time precipi-
tation was reduced to a minimum quantity, yet the lake re-
mained stationary with a regular inflow and outflow, though
somewhat reduced in volume. The years 18s8 and 1889
were two periods of this drouth, which afforded an ample
opportunity to notice id study its effect, and notwithstand-
ing the absence of rainfall there, in the autumn months of
1889, the lake had risen in its surface elevation several
inches, as a.scertained by land marks at the water's edge,
which were placed in position in 1888.
OTHER CHARACTERISTICS.
The following streams of running water supply the lalce
with an inflow equalling the outflow.
Nicollet's Infant Mississippi, at extreme southwest angle.
Mary creek, at extreme southeast angle.
Chambers creek, at the east side of the west arm.
Boutwell creek, at the west side of the west arm.
Island ^reek. on the west side, opposite Schoolcraft island.
Flop.,ung Bog creek, at P^'Ioating Bog bay.
Sha-wun-uk-u mig creek, at southwest angle.
North of Garrison point, .south of Ozawindib point, north
of Schoolcraft island and at the extreme north end of the
north arm, are small and uncertain creeks of no special
importance.
252 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
Itasca lake has gradually receded from a former and
plainly distinct higher surface elevation since its first dis-
covery in 1803. The indications of this recession are dis-
tinct. Bear point was formerly an island, the waters ex
tending across from Floating Bog bay to the east shore of
the m u body of the lake, where is situated Schoolcraft
island, its summit ranging from northwest to southeast, sev-
enteen feet higher than the surface of the lake, and covered
with a dense growth of birch, basswood. aspen, fir and did
mond willow, one stately white pine, and an occasional bmr
oak. Its surface area is 2.62 acres.
A shoal of boulders has a permanent existence in the
main body of the lake a short distance west of south from
the island.
At the outlet of Itasca lake the Great River is scarcely
fifty feet wide at the first appearance of a current, is three
or four feet in depth in the centre of the channel, has
muddy shores, and as the current increases in rapidity to
the westward, the river narrows to an average of about
thirty feet, is filled with debris, shoals and boulders, and
for some distance down the stream, free passage with canoes
is impeded by reeds, flag and water grass.
The spurs of the Haiifenrs des Terres, trending inward, and
extending to the shores of Itasca lake, dividing the waters
in sectional divisons, are numerous, and by this means, this
lake, situated at the lowest dejjression, receives and dis-
charges all the flowing water found there, a characteristic
of the locality not applicable to any of its neighboring
lakes.
One peculiar signiticancy is demonstrated by the fact that
Itasca lake has a flood plain of but little more than three
THE commissioner's DETAILED SURVEY. 253
feet in elevation above the natural surface of the lake. The
flood plains of the lakes higher up are ten, fifteen and
twenty feet. Thus, while Itasca lake is always supplied and
sometimes rises during dry weather, the lakes at the sum-
mit dry down rapidly to a lesser surface area, depending
upon rainfall to re-supply them,
MEASUREMENTS AND DISTANCES,
rtasca lake has a shore line of twenty-three thousand
yards and covers an area of 1130 acres. Distances to speci-
fic points were ascertained upon the ice, commencing at the
centre of the channel of the river, at the north end of the
north arm and thence to:
Mouth of Mary creek 22,639 feet
Mouth of Nicollet's Infant Mississippi. 17.926 "
Mouth of Chambers creek 16,727 "
Mouth of Boutwell creek 13.627 "
These are the four principal streams contributing a
perennial inflow to the largest lake at the lowest depression,
and the only streams which discharge their waters into
Itasca lake, worthy of especial consideration.
THE MARY VALLEY. LAKES AND CREEK.
From each extreme end of Itasca lake, there exists a well
defined valley, bordered by the heights of land. Sibilant
lake is situated at the summit of the Hauteur de Terre beyond
the southern extremity of Mary valley, which extends
south from the end of the east arm. Two small lakelets
exist north of Sibilant lake, yet south of the point where
the real characteristics of Mary \ alley are first observed in
passing north on the Turnbull road, which descends into
Mary valley at the north end of Josephine lake. At this
point, the examination of Mary valley was commenced.
254
THE MlSSISSII'l'I KIVEK AND ITS SOUUCK.
THK COMMISSION KKS DKTAILEI) Sl'^^KY. 255
Josephino \-dke is the head of the valley, is closely sur-
rounded by high hills on either side, with a sli«;^ht rise of
the surface dividing its waters from those of Ako lake.
The elevation of Josephine lake ab,')ve the surface of the
water of Itasca lake is tifty-eight (r)8) feet. Thence in the
sharply defined valley descending to the north, weie reached
and passed Ako and Danger lakes, and lower down through
a dry creek bed to the north a limited tamarac swam ]) was
reached, in the midst of which is situated The Twin.s — two
small connected lakes supplied by the waters higher up the
valley. Thisswamj) is connected with the Clarke lake local-
ity and Midway Reservoir by a small well defined water-
shed having a dry creek b«Hl as one characteristic. The
swamp extends to the south or upper end of Mary lake, the
most imi)ortant body of water in Mary valley, formed and
maintained by the gathering of the water from the upper
portions of the valley. From this lake flows Mary creek, a
perennial affluent entering the south end of the east arm of
Ita.sca Mary lake is erroneously noted on the official plats of
the United States as two small lakes. The lake is one-half of
a mile long and covers an area of 75 acres, is 40 feet in depth
and its surface! is iU.iJ feet higher than that of Itasca lake.
During the most continued drouth, its surface elevation re-
mains unchanged.
The distances from the main i-ivcr to tin- ]uy,u[ of Mary
valley are as follows:
From centre of main channel of the Mississippi at north
end of north arm of Itasca, to mouth of
Mary creek L'2,689 feet.
Up channel of Mary creek to Mary lak(' H.058 "
Length of Mary lake 1*, 597 ' '
256 THE MLSSISSIPIM ItlVEll AND ITS SOUllCE.
From Mary lake to the Twin lakes 2,222 feet.
Across the Twin lakes 320
Prom the Twin lakes to Danger lake 1,183
Across Danger lake 1, 100
Danger to Ako lake 817
Across Ako lake 523
Ako to Josephine lake 275
Length of Josephine kike 1,345
Total 86,079
Width of Mary creek near its mouth 6 feet.
Depth of channel 6 'nches.
Rapidity of c rrent per minute 60 feet.
Depth of Itasca lake off mouth of Mary creek . 25 and 35 feet.
The importance of Mary creek, lake and valley, as a per-
ennial supply to the inflow of Itasca lake is augmented by
the fact that its length is greater than that of any other
valley, lakes an 1 creek within the basin, excepting only the
principal stream draining Nicollet's valley and its branches
Upon a consideration of this importance it has been deter-
mined that Mary valley with its lakes and creek, constitute
the Lesser Ultimate Reservoir bowl of the Mississippi river
system, distinctly separated and apart from the western arm.
Mary valley is a deep, picturesque depression, rising
gradually from Itasca lake to the summits where it reaches
a narrowing limit in the immediate neighborhood of Joseph-
ine lake.
ELK LAKE AND ITS CREEKS.
An eroded surface, where formerly existed a narrow shoal,
has created the bed of Chamber's creek ^ , 1, 100 feet long,
connecting Elk lake with Itasca lake. Previous to the erod-
1 Poriuerly desijinatod as "Elk creek."
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JfOltter Cr Cratstn^. OitVe Je» Art I If^SJ^ |
Mulf/Haon //tY<. tiiave Stahttf lii-ySft.
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THK COMMISSIONKUS i)KTAlLi:i) SUUVKY. I'.'T
iii«; action of the waters, comparatively of recent date. Elk
lalvo was a bay of Itasca; in the lan«;uaijre of the Ojibway —
•Peko-gu-niag" — '"A water juttin«? otf from another water."
That it was, forin«M-ly, a part of Itasca lake, will be
readily admitted by the casual observer; an estuary, cast
asunder by the <;radual lowering of the surface of th<'
parent lake, from protracted natural causes, leaving it 491)
feet distant, and 1- inches higher, with, a separating narrow
strip of land intervening, at Morrison hill. Elk lake covers
an area of 294 acres, is a mile in length, and soven sound-
ings, through openings in the ice cut for that purpose,
gave an average depth of ii-\ feet. Its general character-
istics are indontical with those of Itasca lake, with these
exceptions :
1st. It is situated at the side of the west arm of Itasca,
not at an extremity.
2nd. It has no perennial stream, woi-thy of the name,
falling into it.
3rd. Only an average of ,\, of the water passing out from
Itasca lake, is drawn from Elk lake, through Chambers
creek.
4th. Instead of having well defined valleys, drained by
perennial currents, it is imbedded ia hills, which nearly sur-
round it.
5th. The small and narrow creeks which fall into it, are
of uncertain existence, and in March, 1889, all of them were
entirely closed by frost and ice, excepting only Elk spr'ngs,
situated on the east shore of the lake, and in the montii of
August following, they were all dry»
In the summer of 1890, after copious rainfall. Lake Itasca
rose a foot or more above Elk lake, and Chambers creek
-17
•J.'"^ TIIK MISSISSIPPI RIVKK AND ITS SOUl{CK.
flowed into insU'jul of out from it, a coi'tiiiii iiulirutioii tliat
Itasca lake di'aws Its principal supply from beyond the nai-
row limits of Elk lake. It will thus be noticed that Elk hilcf
has but limitetl characteristics of the locality, and is imt
entitled to a «rreater or more ext<'ndt»d importaiice than its
curtailed ])ositi(jn will warrant. A dense forest borders it
on the south shore. Its miniature creeks fall into it fron.
that dense forest, while beyond and above rise the summits
of the Iffiiiffiir ih- Terre. Elk lake is far belo\\ those sum-
mits, and its c!reeks are far removed from an ideal standard,
and tho.se who are induced to believe otherwise, are the
lambs of cn.'atiou led to the slau«rhter. Those streams
apjjear upon Xicollefs map of ls;](). and for convenient geo-
<i'raphical desij^nation have been named as follows:
Elk sprin<;s, At east shore of Elk lake,
Keg-wed-zis-sag' creek, At S. E. extremity of Elk lake,
Clarke creek and pool, At southern extremity of Elk lalce.
Elk creek. At S. W. extremity of
Siegfried creek. At west shore of
The flood-plain of Elk lake is practically the same as that
of Itasca, limited, and its surface elevation remains practi-
cally stationary at all seasons of the year. The statement,
recently made, that the basin of Elk lake is larger than thai
drained by Nicollet's Infant river, is erroneous, as may be
readily observed upon an inspection of the accompanying
chart. If the area of the limited drainage basin surround-
iiig Elk lake, was greater than that of Nicollet valley, the
outflow would be greater. It is admitted by all who have
examined the two localities, that it is much less.
1 As speUf'd by Nifollt't. 'Plic coT'ect iiiuii ■ is (Jay ;?wtHi-()-siiy.
THE COMMISSIONER'S DETAILED SUIiVEY. 1259
THE DENSE FOREST.
Immediately bordering the southern shore of Elk lake.
the dense forest of pine, fir, cedar, tamarac, birch, ash and
aspen is situated, intermingled with such mats of willow,
windfalls, swamps and underbrush as to constitute an exami
nation of it for topographic conditions, a difficult undertak-
ing. For the jjurposes of an accurate survey, the section
and quarter-section lines were opened by axemen, making
a passage through and around the entire forest, and a
detailed examination of it an accomplished fact. The
miniature creeks formed there, are local in character, and
limited in length and capacity, indicating no existence of
any considerable and permanent surface drainage or arte-
sian pressure.
THE DISTANCES.
From the centre of the channel at the outlet of Itasca lake,
on the surface of the ice:
Thence to the mouth of Chambers creek is 16.727 feet.
Thence up the channel of Chambers creek to
Elk lake 1.100 ••
Total 17.827 "
At the time this measurement was made, in March. 188'.),
diligent search failed to reveal any surface inflow to Elk
lake, through either of the small creek beds. Notwithstand-
ing that fact Chambers creek discharged a slightly increased
volume of water from Elk into Itasca lake, than was dis-
charged the previous November, and that fact indicated the
existence of a body of water above and beyond Elk lake, as
a reservoir supply, for no rainstorms occurred during the
intervening tim .
1 TIrtc is no (loiibt wliatevor but that Elk lakt' is supplied to some oxteiu hy
•wiiteTs from the Greater Ultimate Reservoir IkiwI by tortuous ways throuiru tlie
uicdiuins which nature in her grandeur has provided.
tlV)i) THE MISSISSIPPI KlVKtl AND ITS SOL'RCE.
Subsequently, in April 18^9. an attempt to ascertain the
true length of creeks south of Elk lake resulted as follows ;
At Elk springs, a small brook r)0 feet.
Gay-gwed-o say creek, to ice blocks in swamp. . 275 "
Clarke creek, from Elk lake to Clarke pool 875 "
Siegfried creek to Hall lake 4.;i55 "
Elk creek was still blocked ^ith ice, and the thawing
snows disseminated its substance over the icy surface, while
in the following August the bed of the creek was entirely
dry.
CHAMBERS CREEK MEASURED AND CONSIDERED.
The measurements of water in Chambers creek, from time
to time, anfl the character of the creek as gathered from the
observatioiis of others, who have visited the place upon dif-
ferent occasions, give very ;tccurate and concise information
as to its importance.
The facts are so cumulative and convincing that the
greater part of it is given, in order that the true character of
this creek may be thoroughly understood by those who de-
sire information upon the question as to which is the main
stream within the Itasca Basin — Chambers creek or Nicol-
let's Infant Mississippi.
The running water between Elk and Itasca lakes, through
Chambers creek, must be considered as being extremely
vaiiable from apparent causes, wholly meteorological, th(»
maximum and minimum for 1880, being given as a basis for
the consideration of its importance.
Maximum depth. April. 1889 8 inches.
Minimum depth. September, 1889 1 inch.
Maximum width. April. 1*^89 5 feet.
Minimum width. September, 18s9 3 feet.
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THE COMMISSIONER'S DETAILED SURVEY. '-'(•l
Velocity of current, per minute, April. 1889 60 feet.
Velocity of current, September. 188'J not perceptible.
the outlet from Elk lake being closed up with rushes,
tlag and sediment, a dense growth extending far out into
the lake'.
Chambers creek has been exaraired from time to time, as
to flowage with the following results:
By the distinguished Nicollet in l'-';J(). when it appears to
have been a short, sluggish channel.
By Julius Chambers in 1872, when he had much difficulty
in passing up the creek, to Elk lake, with his canoe.
By O. E. Garrison in 1880. when he failed in an attempt to
pass do ■•' ^he creek in his canoe, on account of low water,
and po p a across the brow of Morrison hill, carrying his
canoe and provisions from Elk to Itasca lake.
By W. Glazier in 1881. when sometimes they "found it
necessary to lift the anoes over logs and occasionally to
remove diminutive sandbars from the bed of the stream
with our paddles. As we neared the head of this primal
section of the mighty river, we could readily touch both
shores with our hands at the same time."' P. 70, "Down
the Great River.'
By Peter Turnbull, 1883-4. when at one time he "walked up
the bed of the creek without wetting the soles of his shoes."
By Hopewell Clarke, in 1886, "when its depth varied from
two to eight inches."
By Prof. Kirk, in 1887, when his party with great difficulty
ascended the stream, in their boat, and also upon measure-
ment found Nicollet's Mississippi five or six times. larger in
volume of water.
1 Sec view al Rlk lakf fmtn ;i jihototfraph by Ktaodes.
-&2 THK MISSISSIPPI UIVEli AND ITS SOURCE.
By J. V. Brower. N. "VV. Kice and John Leyendeckor. in
1888, when the brook midway between the two lakes was
thirty (30) inches wide and one (1) inch deep.
By John Leyendecker in November and December, 1889.
who reported that the stream was about dried up; and that,
on the other hand. Lake Itasca was several inches higher
than in the month of November, 1888. as ascertained by
land-marks made at the water's edge at that time and which,
in 1889, he found under the surface of the water.
By "The undersigned, who on the dates set op])osite our
names, visited the source of the Mississippi and on said
dates the creek connecting Elk vvuth Itasca lake was much
smaller in volume of water, length, width, depth and cur-
rent, than the principal stream known as 'Nicollet's Infant
Mississippi.
L. J. Curtis, principal. Park Rapids Schools. June, 1891.
W. E. Hopkins, paster Baptist Church, Park Rapids. June,
1891.
Robert Dunn, settler, near Itasca, 1890.
P. A. Vanderpool, att'y at law. Park Rapids, 1887-1890.
Anna C. Grunt, teacher, *• •• June, 1891.
Carrie B. Jacobia, " " " June, 1891.
Henry R. Cobb, P. M., Park Rapids, June and August, 1891.
T. S. Finney, settler, near Itasca, 1890.
Mrs. T. S. Finney, Park Rapids, 1891."
By Rev. Stanley A. McKay, Owatonna, Minn. , an eminent
clergyman, who in the month of June, 1891, celebrated the
ceremonies of baptism at Itasca lake, under date of Septem-
ber 14th. 1891, wrote:
"Dear Sir: Since recei%ing your communication two
weeks ago. I have seen the newspaper reports of the late
Glazier expedition and have also received your excellent
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THK COMMISSIONEIi'S UKTAILED SUUVKY. L'tW
Hydrograpliic cliarl of Iho Ultimate Sources of the Missis-
sippi, foi- wlucii accept my thanks. I am sure that the chart
is lacking? in nothin«r to enable any one to make an intel-
lii,'ent study of the question whf) liad not visited the lake,
wiiile for one who luis. it is simply comi)lete.
Grantinjr that the question of the source of the river is
between the two streams, the in.et from Elk lake and the
stream entering? from the west of this inlet, and it is my
opinion that but one answer can be ^iven, and that in favor
of the stream you have called the -Infant Mississippi." Mr.
Hopkins and I visited both streams aiul did not hesitate as
between them to consider the latter stream the larger and
in every way more entitled, so far as we could discover, to
the distinction you have given it. While we did not ascend
this stream very far, I met there, at Itasca, a Mr. Hayes, a
surveyor connected with a Northern Pacific K. K. land party,
who had only a day or two previous in his business been to
the trouble of \'isiting the head of the stream and had
traveled over the entire tract between Hernando de Soto
lake and the Nicollet lakes. He is a \ er3' intelligent man
and does not hesitate, after his personal inspection, to pro-
nounce in favor of the 'Infant* That this will be the ulti-
mate verdict as between these two streams I entertain no
doubt whatever.
"There is one question, however, that I have not .seen
brought forward in this discussion at all. It may have
li+tle bearing, but I should be glad to have it cleared up for
my personal satisfaction. It a ^erned to me beyond question
that the volume of water flowing out of Itasca at the outlet
was far greater than the combined volume of all the four
inlets, viz: the East arm inlet, the Elk lake inlet, the Infant
L'H4 THK MISSISSM'PI lilVEU AND ITS SOUUCK.
Mississippi inlot and the inlet marked lioutwell creek. If
actual measurement should prove this to be true, and it
seems to me to be ])robable, thus makin/ the greater volum*'
of the outlet to como from springs i ^ the lake, would not
that leave Itasca as yet the real source of the Mississippi r
Has this 'volume" n:easurement ever been made, or even
calculated^ Have you any information that will settle this
question? If it should prove that the inlet volume came
anywhere near equaling the outlet volume then I should un-
reservedly express the opinion that th3 "Infant Mississippi'
is the stream, the head of which must be called the ultimate
source of the Great River.
Very truly yours.
STANLEY A. McKAY."
By William McMuUen. in 1H90. who witnessed copious
rainfall sutticient to reverse the current of Chambers'
creek.
By the Glazier party of 1891, who reported on the 3rd day
of September that the Nicollet stream "carries about
twice the volume of water which leaves the Glazier (Elk)
lakei."
By Mr. A. T. Warner and companions, in 1H91, who report
in favor of the Nicollet lakes.
Subsequent examinations in 1891, found Chambers creek,
practically unchanged, in its physical features.
It is believed that by this extended description, every iifl-
portant feature of Chambers creek may be made known.
That its short and limited channel should not be designated
as the principal stream above Itasca lake, is a conclusion.
1 SeeMiimuapolis Tribune. September Itrd. 1891.
THK COMMISSIONKliS DKT.M I.KI) SlUVKY. LMk)
warranted by every hydroi^i'aphic and topo^'raphic fact
existin<f there. C()i)i()us and continued rainfall in 1H92 has
swollen all the streams at Itasca lake tf) an ovortlowapro.
filled all the dry lake hods and re supplied all lakes which
hav<i been reduced by drouth, i
EXPLORATION OF liOUTWELL CREEK.
From the west shore of Itasca lake there is a gradual rise
in the elevation of the surface, for two or more miles until
the summitof the Hauteur de Terrr is reached, which divides
the waters tributary to Hudson's Bay and the Oulf of
Mexico. The elevation of this summit above the surface
of Itasca lake averaj^es about two hundred feet,
broken and hilly, irre^fular in formation, and is covered
with a dense growth of timber, principally pine of different
varieties. At the top of this summit, there are ponds, small
lakes and catch basins supplied entirely by precipitation.
Prom this source, come the waters of Boutwoll creek, which
has its rise on the eastern slope, and in an easterly and
northeasterly general course, tinds its ray to the western
shore of Itasca lake, increasing its volume from numerous
small tributaries coming in from either side.
This creek was thoroughly examined and the general
impression that it takes its rise from the Crescent springs,
proved to be erroneous, though waters of those springs find
an outlet to a considerable extent, into and through its
channel.
April 15th, 1889, its width, depth and flowage were ascer-
tained:
1 This fact was ascert •lined in tin- niontlisnf May and .rune, during two separate
visits to Itasca lake.
l'()(j THK MISSISSII'I'I UIVKK AND ITS SOUKCK.
Width, near Itasca lake I'-i Uiet.
Doptli, at abov(3 dati' IJ} inclnjs.
Rapidity of current OO l(!(!t per minute.
Its len<^th and characteristics are as follows:
Pron-i outlet of Itasca lake to nujuth of Houtwell
creek 1.3,r,27 feot.
L<m<^th of Boutwell cnjek ^.700 "
Total 2:i,;;27 feet.
The locality drained Vjy Boutwell creek is rou^'h and
broken, and in some cases is difficult tf) penetrate because
of the fir, taraarac and (;edav forests. The creek is rapid
and deep in its meanderin;rs from the summit of th(; hills,
its channel often undei- the; surface of a thatched coverin«^,
makinf:^ its course difficult to trace in many places. Its
.source is a series of si)rjnf^s near the center of a marsh sur-
rounded by hills.
THK C'liKSCENT Sl^UIXfiS.
Half-way up th<i valley drained by Boutwell creek is a
peculiar natural formation, ori<rinatin<,' from utiderf^round
currents, supplied by the waters at the summit of the hills
to the westward. These currents havr; forced u[) sand,
scidiment and earthy substanc;es, forming? a hill about forty
feet above the h)ed of Boutwfsll creek. The summit of tliis
hill is crescent shaf)ed. and fi'oiii its nunn'rous artesian
fountains at the toj) of the hill, flow very small streamlets
which soon disappear. Its waters find their way south as
well as north and contribute to the supply of creeks in
Nicolhit's valley as well as to Boutwell cn^ek. The time
occupied by the wat*'r pressure, artesian in character, in the
formation of this hill, has, no doubt, b(!en many centuries.
■niK <J(JMMISSI{)NKUS l)KTAILi;i) SITUVKV. IIOT
Boutwoll crcHik and tlio Crcsconl spriM«cs ar(! distinctively
important factors in tlic supply ol' \\;ilcr to Itasca lak«!.
T\u' Crciscont sprin<,'s ar<' a natuiTil cui-iosity, worthy of
an insf)ection l)y th*; advonturcsomc pcdcsti-ian.
OTHKi: CliKKKS.
Fi'om a limiUni taniarac swainji <'Xt<'ndin;^ from tlu; \v<is1
shore of Itasca lake to the noi'thwiird. immediately o])posit<'
Schoolcraft island, a small ci'cek comes in. This cre(>k is of
no special importance, is small and limited in len<^th and
drains tin; swanip from w hich it issues.
Floating Bog ci'eek is of the same i^-eneral character, and
likewise Sha-wun-ukn uii;^ creek. The ereelcs north of
Schoolcraft island partake more of the (character of a boggy
drain, from the adjacent marsh. The small creeks south of
Ozawindib pf)int and north of (jJarrison ],oint discharg<! theii
waters into small and limited swamps and disappfsar among
the bogs neai' the shores of Itasca lake.
Th(! sjjrings which are occasionally found ai-ound the
shores of Ita.sca lake, arr; limited in number, and <ndy a very
small fiuantity of water is discharged i *o th(; lake Ijy them.
One appears under the surface of the water w(;st of Turnbull
point, and another west of the mouth of Mary creek. The
two mentioned aiv- the largest noticed upon ;ui entires circuit
of the shore line, and consecjucmtly it cannot be said that
Itasca lake "springs forth" from or ri.ses -.ip out of the
earth. Tli(^ largo and important springs are abov(! and
beyf)nd.
26H TIIK MISSiSSICI'l Ul\i;ii and its SOfKCK.
NICOLLKTS IXFANT MISSISSIPPI KIVKR.
Fov the purpose ot makiii*,'' ii can-ful and detailc.'d survey
of the princii)al strcMin at Ttas<;a lake, th(5 camp of IIk-
expedition was remevf^d I'l'oi.'i i'atierson's eahin, at the out
let, U) the Nicollet sprin<^s, livo miles to the southward. Al
the extreme limit of Itasca lake, vvl re thf; stream become-s
a part of the lake, it is forty feet in width and two feet in
depth; narrowing as y(ju ascend the stream, it was found to
be three feet in depth, tw(mty feet in width, with a brisk
current, a short distance fi-f)ui the lake. The character of
the locality is a deep valley, somewhat swampy alonj^ the
stream, with prominent hills on eitlKu* side, heavily timberoil
with the native pine. These hills also appeal* in d(!tached
groups in the tamarac and fir thickets, sometimes a hundnnl
feet in heij^ht, and the ])ine a hundred feet higher than th<,'
hills beneath their stately and spreading branches, making
the locality easy (n access and not ditticult to closely
examine. Passing up the stream, the explorer is impressed
with its imixjrtance, as compared with all the other streams
found ther(;, Vjy its sharply defined Vjanks, its winding,
meandering channel, deeply cut down into the stratum to a
sandy, gravelly bed, with every appearance and character-
istic of the Mississippi below Ita.sca lake. It has sandbars,
sharp angles in its channel, deep and shallowing currents,
and all the more striking features of a larger river. Largf
trees found near its banks incline toward the stream; a vari
ety of fish, large and small, won; found in its waters; the
mink, otter and muskrat abounded, and wild ducks of many
northern varieties ^vere from time to vime noticed in its
waters. Trees have been felled in several places across its
'IlIK ('(JMMISSI()NKI;"S l»K'rAII,KI) Sl"Ii\EV.
209
V*^-^"
1 1; Ife^
.To
■fill': MississiiMM iM\i':k ani» its sni'icci;.
I>u.mUn !o |it'niiit i»r |i;iss;i;.''<' on loot. I'|ii)ii IIh- i«'Iii(>^;iI oI
1li(!S<' t r*'(;s, <-;iii(»<'s ini;.'"lil !)<■ |)io|»c||(rrl nrjirly 1 wo juiN-s np
this |»ritir-if»;il clijiriin-l Irom llii>,c;i liilo-.
TIm'S*' :.',r«' ;i port ion of tli<! chjifuclcrist ics of the strciiiri.
itKJic.tliri;.'' its ixTinaiH-ncv' utid iin|»or1,;iii<'«!, uiid, wlial is tine
ot" no olln'f s1r<';ii'i within IIk; basin, it, luis three aninfiit
l)rarich('s, llowin;^; in Iroui Ih*; lici^hts of huid, which mult
iiiciit its ini|)oi'tan<-<' ;in<l |MTniani'nry ;iho\<' any ot Imt st ream
rouri<l there Tliese are Deniaiay ereek, Hr)vvai(l ereek and
S[)rinj.( lii(l;.''e crtu-k. each siista.ine(l hy nnniei-oiis spririe->,.
sharply indieatin;^ aftesiaii pressure 1 foni the lakes hi<,^hei-
up liie llii:d< of the Itasca Mioi'aine. A detached upper I'orU-
of the ri\<'r. flows into Xicoll(?t/s ujjper lak'e, reappeai'inj^ at
theunifpie Nicollet sprinirs. iindei' a narrow, natural bri(J;.'e,
a singular lonnation of the eaiHis surface.
The lines of measurement wi^re e.xt.enderj throughout, the
entire localit\\ thereby sermi-in^ 1 he distances, le(i<rt|is and
elevations; lakes were sounded for their depth, t.he sti'eams
w<!i'e measured loi- widtli. depth and llowa-^'e, and the top->
;jrrapliy was c;iref'idly tak'en. e\en to the extent , when found
iKJCOSsary. of opetdn;j- pa,ssa^<;s thr()U<^h the tliickets ai'()und
Nicollet \a,l|ev. which practically occupies a, depression e.v-
t(jndin^'' from Itasca to the most e|e\aled lakes al)C\'j'. A
line penetrating' the wilde)-ness j.-fim Moi-risoii liill, directly
to th<; norlli sl'ore ol' iletniMido de Soto lak'e, disc,o\'er'ed the
e.xistence and cont irjuanci of a spur of tlie lldnhu r <li- 'rcn<\
sharply separatiu;^ the waters of Nicollet \a,lley from those
of I'jik- lake. It was also (lis(;o\'ered that, from the Missis-
sippi spriijf^s to Itasca. Iak<; numerou■^ plact^s exisl where lh<;
wai<!!"s l)ubble up and ooze out \v(.a\ tliebaseof the hills,
foriniii-^' .->mall streandet-, llowiiiLr inwarri to the lowest de
-. I.
sir-'- ■ vvT-ef ^i.
v.^4-
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m.-'-^'-c*
. jt.
THE COMMISSIONEK'S DKTAILKl) SURVI^Y. -71
pression occupied by the main stream, and thus, while the
tirst flowagre of water, down the incline, from tlie north end
of Whipple lake, is but a foot in width and scarcely more in
depth, the stream ^appearing from place to place, as noted
on the chart, gx-adually increases in width, dei)th. flowage,
rapidity of current and importance, as the waters accumu-
late, from place to place, until finally when Itasca lake is
reached, this veritable and interesting "Infant River," has
completely ushered its waters into a growing importance,
not to be again lessened to its entry into the sea.
The lines of measurement extended to every locality, gave
the following re.sults:
From the centre of the channel at the outlet of Itasca Hive
to the mouth of Nicollet's
Infant Mississipj)i 17.ltiH) feet.
Thence up the channel to mouth of Uonuiray
creek 3, 797 ' •
Thence to Nicollet's lower l;tke 2.760 '*
Thence to Nicollet's middle lake l.OaO "
Thence to Nicollet springs 6l»0 "
Thence to Nicollet's upper lake 31.') •'
Thence to centre of Mississippi springs .".26.') '•
Thence to north end of Whipple lake 1,320 ''
Thence to inner Hank of the Haiifoir dr Tcrre at
south shore of Hernando do Soto lake 12.060 "
Total, to extreme limit of Mississippi basin. . . 46,089 "
Following the main channel up through the trough of the
depression, from which it takes its rise, the party reached
the highest and farthest waters from the Gulf of Mexico,
nearly nine miles above and beyond the channel of the Mis-
sissippi at the north end of Itasca lake.
'27-2
THK MISSISSIIMM UIVKIi AND ITS SOIRCK.
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I'.i: well STK'KAM^.
I)ui'iii^'' I li.' |iri)V'ri'>.N of I hi> tii«'.i>ii it'iiM'tit. iniiiiiTou'^ l>r;iiirli
^tnsirris. s|iriiijfs itrid hikes Wfi'i- mth-d. ><'\fi-;il <it vvlii<!i
li;iv«' not |»i'<'\ i()u-.l y Ix'in hiid down upon t In- cliurt^. iiiiionv
wliicli arc I>«Mii;ti"i\' ir U. Spriiiir liidifn ;iijd its |M'(idi;iriti«--.,
:in(l si'\('ral l;ik«'S.
Th*' h'n^rtli ot l><'iii;ii;iy i|-..ck i-. .'i.'.t.'iO Ic*-!.
'I'h<f Icn^tli of llo\\;ird cifck- is ;;.7;i'.t
'rh«> l(Hi;,'tli of Sprin;,' llidji't- (■(•••i-lv i-^ '.lOO
D<!iii;u'ay ••r<'<di, wliicli tak'cs it> rise im-jii- lljiy^ lid<i'. lias
several little br'anclies coiniiiL'" in tr-om mitiii-foiis spcin^s
alorij^ its coiirsi', dim' oI' wliidi ln-ads near the ( 'n -scent,
springs. \>y wliidi it is supplied; Howard cieeK- foi ins a siii-
face (Iraina'TO. lor a sliarpl.\ defined ravine, drawing its sup
ply from numerous sprinj^^s, and Sprint' I'id^'e crei'|< is but a
small hi'ooU'. the waters ot which How directly out i»f th''
earth, from the summit of a iou;^ Spring,' rid^e. the uplwaxal
of a series «»f sprinj^s. extendinir ahmj; the ridire .\icoll"ts
lower lake is small and unimportatit. while his middle laK'e
is a, permarionl and l»eaiitifid sheet ol water, twenty ti\c feet
in «leptli, oblonir in form, pointed at lt•^ north extremity, and
is sustained h.s 1 he constant Mow r)r uumeroiis sprini;s, somt;
<i\' which were not<!d in little pits at the Imttom of the laK'e.
near the slif)re. and the stream. disco\er«d h.v Xicollet.
coiries into it, at its soulhern e.vtremity from the Nicollet
sjiriti^s. undonhtedly the place wln're Xicollet, in l^:!'), noted
the waters ••oozing frr)rM the bases of the hills." At the top
of the hill there -situated, is the small body of water, with a
brisk and rapidly tlowiuL' iidet. and wo \isib|e out let. u hch
-18
274
THK MISSISSIPPI KIVEU AND US SOURCE.
has been hesitatingly selected as Nicollet's upper lake, for
there is much doubt if he ever saw the place.
Continuing up through the trough of the basin, the Mis-
sissippi springs, Floating Moss lake. Garrison's Beavei*
daai and Whipple lake, are noted as the most striking
hydrographic characteristics of the locality, below which
the springs and swamps occur and above which no springs
and no swamps are found, and this fact was noted in all its
peculiarities. Thence is reached The Triplets, Morrison,
Mikenna, The Picard, Hernando de Soto and other lakes at
the summit of the hills, with constantly receding waters,
fluctuating until re-supplied and again to recede, while the
lakes, from Whipple lake, down the depression of the
incline, similar to Itasca lake, never recede, but. on the
contrary, sometimes rise in their surface elevations, with-
out the intervention of storms.
ELEVATIONS.
The elevations above the surface of the water at Itasca
lake were carefully noted from actual coi-rected lines of
level as follows:
Elevation above
At surface of water of Itasca lake.
Nicollet's Lower lake 3 feet.
Nicollet's Middle lake 4 '•
Nicollet's springs 19 "
Nicollet's Upper lake 39 • •
Mississippi springs 78 "
Floating Moss lake 91 • •
W^hipple lake 94 • •
The North Triplet (at low water) 98 "
Morrison, Hernando de Soto, Mikenna, Little Elk,
and other lakes (at low water) 101 •'
IfetScii-L,
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PROFILE OF ELEVATIONS ABOVE THE SEA LEVEL FROM ITASCA LAKE TO HERNANDO DE SOTO LAKE. REDUCED FROM AN ACTUAL LINE
OF LEVELS IN THE FIELD, BY J, V. BROWER, COMMISSIONER, 1889.
THE commissioner's DETAILED SURVEY. 1^7.')
It has recently been discovered that the lake marked on
the chart of 1891 as ' "Allen lake" was formerly a part of
Hernando de Soto lake, and the name was improperly
applied.
NOTABLE SPRINGS.
The lai'gest and most important springs of the Itasca
Basin, are situated along its principal stream, and for conven-
ient purposes of identification have been designated as
follows:
Mississippi springs Below Floating Moss lake.
Nicollet springs Below Nicollet's Upper lake.
Spring Ridge springs Above Nicollet's Lower lake.
Crescent springs North of Demaray creek.
SOUNDINGS.
Soundings for depths of several lakes were taken with the
following results:
Nicollet's Middle lake 25 feet .
Whipple lake 2\ "
Morrison lake 40
Hernando de Soto lake -0 "
The lowest depression at Morrison lake placed the bottom
of the lake sixty-one feet higher than the surface of Itasca
lake, and this ascertained fact constituted a simple explana-
tion of nature's hydrographic cause and effect, as demon-
strated by the existence, immediately to the northward and
lower down, of numerous springs and streams springing
forth from the bases of the hills.
The average width of Nicollet's Infant Mississippi from
Itasca lake to Nicollet's Lower lake, is nine feet, and the
current of this stream, in its mean average, carries more
than double the amount of water, found flowing there in any
l7tj THK MISSISSIPIT KIVEU AND ITS ROL'KCK.
other stream. In If^hH. it carried more water tlum ;iU the
other streams combined.
Since it was ascertained beyond any reasonable doubt,
ihat Nicollet discovered and laid down upon his chart, the
largest and longest stream of the locality, an interesting
and painstaking examination was had, to learn whence this
stream is sustained, in its perennial existence, resulting in
tlij discovery of a headwater system not heretofore known
to exist as such.
THE ca^EATER ULTIMATE RESERVOIR.
The abundance of the water supply at and below "Whipple
lake, the numerous springs and the ultimate gathering cf
the water into a principal stream bed, the gradation of ele-
vations above the sea level in a conspicuous and immediate
rotation, up the inner flanks of the Hauteurs de-s Terres, from
the Nicollet lakes to the summit above, the old creek beds
at the Triplet lakes, one leading from Little Elk lake, an J
another between Floating Moss lake and the Missi3:^ip;>i
springs, the character of the sandy, gravelly stratum, the
enormous pressure from a large elevated bod}^ of water,
seeking its level, and a careful examination oi all .opographic
and hydrographic features, finally made the conclusion an
easy task in the presence of an unalterable conviction that
all of the several bodies of water from Hernando de Soto
and Morrison lakes, through the Triplets. Whipple. Floating
Moss and Nicollet's UpptM- and Middle lakes, constituted a
Greater Ultimate Reservoir, the natural cisterns, by which
and through which, the ]irecipitated waters infiltrate and
percolate, through conduits of nature, gathering, by a
natui'al process, as perfect as any mechanical contrivance
Of /Tie-
•M. i SS i SS thh i Op r i njs
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•J'HK COMMISSIONKU S DKTAILKD SfliVKV. _. <
v.'ould luako possible, into the utmost limit of the remot<»st
headwater branches of the Mississippi rivei- at tlie ultimate
source. Tliis Ultimate Reservoir is situated within an Ulti-
mate Bowl, a-> distinct as is the UjS3rv'oir itself, and, in all
its physical features, it brinj^s to light the hidden secrets of
the true source.
MISCELLANEOUS CONSIDERATIONS.
The area covered by the lakes of the Greater Ultimate
Reservoir, computed by official surveys and estimates, is as
follows:
Hernando de Soto lake 2'2C acres
Morrison lake 12;"
Whipple. Floating Moss and other lakes 155
Total :*■.{)
The elevations above the sea level at the (Greater Ultimate
Reservoir:
Hernando de Soto lake 1.558 feet.
Morrison lake 1,558 "
Whipple lake 1.551
Floating Moss lake 1, 548 • ■
The Mississippi springs 1.535 ••
NicoUefs upper lake 1.496 ••
Nicollet's springs 1.476 ••
Nicollet's middle lake 1,461 ••
TRUE LENGTH OP MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
Gulf of Mexieo to Itasca lake 2.546.52 miles.
Thence to Greater Ultimate Reservoir 6.48
Total 2,553.00
The mean average descent of the water from Whipple
lake to the Gulf of Mexico, is a trifle more than 7i inches
per mile.
L'lS THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
Other distances are as follows:
Gulf of Mexico to Elk lake 2.549.00 miles
(rulf of Mexico to head of Boutwell creek.. 2,r)50.74
Gulf of Mexico to Mary lake 2,.')") 1.50
Gulf of Mexico t(j head of Howard creek 2, 552.02
THE POSITION OP THE ITASCA BASIN.
From time to time, by Lieut. Allen. J. N. Nicollet nnd
Julius Chambers, the latitude and the longitude of the Basin
have been obtained, with somewhat ditferent results, caused,
no doubt, by long and rough journeys necessary to reach
the place, occasioning injury and disjilacement to the deli-
cate instruments necessary for correct astronomical observa-
tions. Twenty live observations were noted at Schoolcraft
island and Park's cabin by this expedition, with results
slightly different from those mentioned. The results of the
twenty-five observations are not strictly reliable and accu
rate, and for that reason are not now included in this report,
a preference being had for the standard parallels, correc-
tion, township and sectional surveys of the United States
government, oificiai and permanent in their character,
which were adopted as a base of operations, with results
eminently satisfactory and reliably correct.
By dead reckoning. Mr. Alfred J. Hill computes the true
position of Schoolcraft island at latitude 47'' 13' 10"; long.
95° 12'.
The position of Brower island, at Hernando de Soto lake.
is: North latitude 47° 8' 50". Longitude west from Green-
wich, 95° 12' 48", as computed by dead reckoning from dis-
tances ascertained south and west from Schoolcraft island.
The two islands- mentioned are the most prominently situ-
'J HE COMMISSIONEUS DETAILED SUItVEV. 1^711
aled. of liny found there, each of which are surrounded by
the main body of the lakes in which they are situated.
METEOROLOGICAL CONDITIONS.
The results of observations for meteorological facts in
Northern Minnesota are so permanently established and
well known, that no attempt has been made or believed to
be necessary, to add information, or the results of further
observation, upon questions of atmospheric phenomena.
The district of country reachint? from Lake Superior to the
Red river of the north, in the midst of which is located the
Itasca Basin, is susceptible to various meteorolof^ic clianges.
a tropical sun of 100" above, and an arctic frost at 40' below
zero, constituting -he two extremes, and these extremes of
August and February are closely reached each calendar
year, for brief periods only, the mean average ranging
>lightly above 40 . Fahrenheit. These conditions permit
ihe existence of a verdure of surpassing beauty, durmg the
summer months, and a sheet of ice and snow from December
until March. The ice and snow at Itasca have a percepti-
ble effect upon the waters seeking an outlet from the
heights of land to the lowest depression of the basin below,
in that they cause the formation of numerous ice blocks by
congealed overflowage. thus closing for the frozen season
several of the smaller creeks, occasionally causing new
channels, or a modification of old ones. The principal
affluent is never closed by frost. As to precipitation,
seasons vary, and no oppjrtunity was afforded for accurate
observation, for the correct results of a year, for the reason
that at no time did the sojourn at Itasca exceed sixty con-
tinuous days. Storms frequently prevail, deep snows in
i''^<» rtii; Mississii'in uivkk and its soriici:.
winter aiul heavy raiut'all in siuiuncr. oarh ()ccuiTiii»c pe-
riodically. During the montli of Au<j:ust. iJ^ND. a tremendous
electric storm occurred, of sutticient powei- to twist asunder
thf; tops of trees and uproot numerous exposed «;rt)\vths.
The camp of the party was seriously threatened, but for-
tunately escaped material injury. A wind storm occurred
in April. 18H9. when to traverse the lines of survey, was
daUj^erous because of falling timber.
As to evaporation, what is true of the entire northwest, is
also true of the Itasca lake region, a^^d the same causes, and
ettects following therefrom, are. comparatively speaking,
the same throughout the northern part of the State of Min-
nesota, and the qu<>stion has been so sufficiently examined,
that no attemi)t has been made tc add to the information
already extant. It .seems needless to add that evaporation,
and also precipitation, differ .somewhat from year to year, in
accordance with meteorologic conditions prevailing at the
time.
The four principal seasons of the year, applicable to a
temperate zone, occur with distinct regularity, the Indian
summer of September and October, often continuing into
the month of November, constituting the most desirable
season to visit the headwaters of the river.
INFLOW AND OUTFLOW AT ITASCA LAKE.
The Rev. Stanley A. McKay has suggested a test of the
measurement and computation of the water flowing out
from Itasca lake, as compared with the amount of the
inflow.
Particular attention was directed to this subject, in 1>^81>.
and at that time, the inflow appeared to be fully equal to the
7.
v.
THE COMMISSIONERS DETAILED SURVEY. 2H1
outflow, the Mississii)pi river at the time being very low on
account of a protracted drought then prevailing. During
the heavy rain storms of recent occurrence there, the inflow
did not equal the outflow. Computed from a basis, covering
a protracted period of time, there is no doubt but that the
supply of water flowing into Itasca, naturally ^ u'ntains an
equal flowage th<'refrom, but no greater. However, it might
be well to remember that the process of evaporation, at
Itasca lake, has some effect upon the displacement of
water, and it would require tests and computations hardly
obtainable at this time for an exact determination of the
question.
Itasca h ke is similar to other lakes, through which the
river passes, the outflow, as a general rule, being controlled
by the inflow, during seasons equalling the mean average of
meteorological disturbances and influences.
The several springs which appear at and about Itasca
lake are small and of but little importance and it cannot be
said of the lake that it "springs forth" from the earth,
because it depends largely upon surface drainage in its
supply to the outflowing river.
SURFACE FLOWAGE.
During the continuance of the measurement of streams,
creeks and brooks, and an examination of their character
and permanency, at Itasca lake, thirty-nine running streams
and brooks were found, principally branches and feeders to
the main streams, within the basin. The old dry creek beds
of past decades aie too numerous to describe, as they are of
no importance, except in case of flood, which would hardly
be a proper criterion upon which to base a conclusion as to
282 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
the permanent origin of water supply, sufficient to consti-
tute the source of a river. It is a striking feature of the
Itasca Basin that each and every stream, creek and brook
there situated, descending from the heights of land, flow
into Itasca lake, coming from every point of the compass.
Thus combined they constitute and for'n the largest lake of
the locality, having the lowest surface elevation.
TRADITIONARY AND GEOGRAPHIC NOMENCLA-
TURE.
The Mississippi river has been known by numerous desig
nations. Prior to Soto's expedition, the savage tribes
applied names to their respective possessions along its
banks. Prom the Cortes map we have Espiritu Sancto — a
name now found to be not applicable to the Mississippi,
for Cortes never saw or named the river, and in nomencla-
tural construction, this name is. improperly applied to the
Mississippi.
Of the numerous names of record, which have been applied
to the river, the following are noted. The list, however, is
by no means exhaustive.
Meche Sebe — The original Algonquin designation.
Chucagua— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.
Tamaliseu— An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.
Tapatu — An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.
Mico — An Indian name, noted by Soto's expedition.
Rio Grande — A Spanish designation, noted by Soto's ex-
pedition.
"The River" — A Spanish designation, note^ by Soto's ex-
pedition.
Palisado — A Spanish designation, from floating trees seen
near its mouth, giving the appearance of a
palisade.
THE COMMISSIONERS DETAILED SURVEY. 283
Escondido — A Spanish designation; hidden from sight by
the innumerable i)asses, cut offs. bayous, etc..
at and above its mouth, making it difficult to
discover the main channel.
St. Louis— A French designation.
Conception — A French designation, by Marquette.
Buade — So called by Joliet after the family name of Gov.
Frontenac.
Colbert — After Jean Baptiste Colbert, an eminent French
statesman.
Mischipi — Nicolas Freytas' visit to the Quivira tribes, 1661.
Messipi — Father AUouez. in Relation of 1667.
Meschasipi — Hennepin map of 1697.
Michi Sepe — Labal's version.
Misisipi — Labatt's version.
Missisipi — Marquette's version.
Mississipi — A later French version.
Mississippi — American version of 19th century. ^
The list is by no means an exhaustive catalogue. There
have been names applied to the riv^er which will never be
known.
Of the names at the headwaters, Capt. Carver placed
White Bear lake, whatever lake that may mean, as the
source; the traders in Morrison's time knew Elk lake (now
Itasca) to be the source. Pike was deceived into believing
1 Recently the followiiij; was puljlislietl as a version, but the name of the author
was omitted:
"From the niontli of the Oliio to tlie source, it was Icriown ti> tlie Indians as Pe-
hc-ton-at, wlilcli in tlie Algontiuin tongue sisnilied, al)o<le or 1 :il)itation of furies:
several of tlie hriinclies were desiirnated l)y names wliieli. in our laa}?aa};e, would
mean 'little fury." •hi;; fury." old fury,' ete., 'the sippi,' or 'sepe,' being afterwards
added to Pe-lie-ton-at. simply meaiiinii river.
As tothe real meaniu}; of the word I>. M. (jould says: 'An analysis of the word
Mississippi will show tliat it does not mean 'Father of Waters' at all, thus:
•Mis-sisk— grass. Mis-sisk-kt>-on— weeds. Mis-sisk-ke— medical herl)s, and Mis-
ku-tuk. The broad bottom lands of the river were called Mis-ku-tuk; the trilx-s
along the river were called Mis-shu-tan, signifying 'meadow people": thus the lit-
eral meaning of the word is 'the river of meadows of grass.' "
-84 THE iMISSISSIPI'l UIVEK AND ITS SOUKCE.
that Leech lake was the principal water, and it remained
for Gen. Cass to learn of La Bichc as the name, and first
make its approximate location known to civilized humanity.
Beltrami's Julia lake existed as the source, in one mind only,
that of the author of the Countess' Letters, while Morrison
in his letter refers to the river above Cass lake as "Travers
river." and above Bemejigemug as, "River Ln Biche."
Schoolcraft and Boutwell in the manner heretofore men-
tioned coined the final name for Itasca. However, an inter-
esting incident might well be related: The first words
given by Mr. Boutwell, it will be remembered, were Verum
(true). Caput (head), but substituted the stronger word,
Veritas, (truth). Had the first suggestion been followed,
that of Verum-caput — 'Rumca'" would to-day be the name,
and the word "Itasca" unknown.
The names at the Itasca Basin after whom, and by whom
suggested, are as follows:
Omoskos Sogiagon — The Ojibway name. By aboriginal
tribes.
Lac La Biche — The French translation, by the French
traders.
Elk Lake' — The English translation, after Morrison's time.
Itasca lake— Schoolcraft and Boutwell. from Veritas Caput.
in 1832.
The Infant Mississippi- — Named by J. N. Nicollet, in 1836.
Nicollet;s lower lake, ] ^he Commissioner's Report^ after
Nicollet s middle lake. ;- j ,. ,,. ,,
Nicollet's upper lake. J -^ ' ^- Nicollet.
1 Continued as a designation in 1876, to a minor lalce of the locality, by Sur.
Gen'l. Baker, an ofBcial of tiie United States government.
2 Also called by Mr. Nicollet, "The Cradled Hercules."
3 "The Commissioner's Report." when used, in all cases refers to the action
taken, from time to time, durinjr the present examination, by tlie Cunimissioner
iu <harge.
THK L'OMMISSIONKUS DKTAILKl) SUKVKY. l^"*.")
North. East and West ai'in of Itasca lake— The Commis-
sioner's Report.
Bear point — Named by Peter Turnbull. tirst resident.
Turnbull point — The Commissioner's Report, alter Peler
Turnbull.
Floating Bog bay— J. V. Broker's party of 1H88.
Ozawindib point — The Commissioner's Report. Alter
Schoolcraft's guide.
Garrison point — The Commissioner's Report. After O. E.
Garrison.
Rhodes hill — The Commissioner's Report. After Piof.
Rhodes, photographer of the expedition.
Morrison hill — Tiie Commissioner's Report. After Wm.
Morrison.
Island creek — The Commissioner's Report. Oi)posite
Schoolcraft island.
Mary creek — Named by Peter Turnbull. After Mrs. Mary
Turnbull.
Chambers creek — The Commissioner's Report. After Julius
Chambers.
Boutwell creek — The Commissioner's Report. After Rev.
W. T. Boutwell.
Mary valley — The Commissioner's Report. After Mrs.
Mary Turnbull.
Nicollet valley — The Commissioner's Report. After J. X.
Nicollet.
The Greater Ultimate Reservoir Bowl — The Commissioner's
Report. The most remote and elevated water-shed
in the Mississippi river basin, where the river takes
its rise, at the Greater Ultimate Reservoir.
The Lesser Ultimate Reservoir Bowl — The Commissioner's
Report. At Mary Valley, where exists the Lesser
Ultimate Reservoir of the Mississippi river basin.
The Midway re.servoir — The Commissioner's Report. At
Clarke lake and its neighboring waters.
Crescent springs — The Commissioner's lieport. Cre.scent
286 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVKK AND ITS SOURCE.
shaped at the summit ot' a hill, jifradually formed by
artesian pressure.
Elk springs — The Commissioner's Report. At the east
shore of Elk lake.
Elk creek — The Commissioner's Report. At S. W. angle of
Elk lake.
Elk pool — The Commissioner's Report. In the dense forest.
Elk lake^ — Named by Gen'l. James H. Baker, in 1876.
Clarke creek — The Commissioner's Report. After Hopewell
Clarke.
Clarke pool — At Clarke creek.
Chambers bay — Commissioner's Report. After Julius
Chambers.
Siegfried creek — The Commissioner's Report. After A. H.
Siegfried.
Demaray creek — The Coiumissioner's Report. After Mrs.
Georgiana Domaray. surviving daughter of William
Morrison.
Howard creek— The Commissioner's Report. After Mrs.
Jane S. Howard, surviving daughter of H. R. School-
craft.
The Mississippi springs — The Commissioner's Report. At
the geographical center of the Greater Ultimate Reser-
voir.
Mary lake — Named by Peter Turnbull. After Mrs. Mary
Turnbull.
The Twin lakes^The Commissioner's Report. Suggested
by the appearance of united waters.
Danger lake — Named by Peter Turnbull, from infiltration
and percolation of waters from above, flooding the ice
surface in winter at its south shore.
Ako lake — Named by Hon. I. V. D. Heard. After Hennepin's
Companion Accault.
Josephine lake— J. V. Brower's 1888 Examination.
1 Also called by .lulius Chambers "Dully Vardeii" lake.
THE COMMISSIONER'S DETAILED SURVEY. L'l^7
Sibilant lake— The Commissioner's Re])ort, The lakf is
the form of the letter vS.
Clarke lake— Named by Mr. A. J. Hill. After Hopewell
Clarke.
Little Elk lake — The Commissioner's Report.
Hall lake — The Commissioner's Report. After Edwin S.
Hall.
I The Commissioner's Report. After Des
Groseilliers lake, , Groseillier and after Pierre E df
Radisson lake, Radisson. discoverers of the Upper
Mississippi river,— 1665.
Floating Moss lake^The Commissioner's Report. From
its floating moss bed on the surface of the water.
Whipple lake— Named by Rev. J. A. Oiltillan. After
Bishop H. B. Whipple, of the Episcopal Diocese of
Minnesota.
The Tri])let it^kes — The Commissioner's Report. Three
small lakelets clo.sely identified with Morrison and
Whipple lakes,
Morrison lake — The Commissioners Report. After Wil-
liam Morrison.
Morrison hill — The Commissioner's Report. After William
Morrison.
Lake Hernando de Soto^ — The Commissioner's Report. In
honor of the discov^erer of the Mississippi river, 1541.
Brower island 2— Named by Capt. R. Blakely, Mr. Charles
D. Elfelt and Hon. I. V. D. Heard, acting as a com-
mittee.
1 The easier and more fluent designation is "Soto," in lieu of "De Soto." unless
given in full. "Hernando de .'ioto." Anslicized. the name is "Hernand of the
Grove," meaning Hernand of tlie tliicket or forest. Tlie forests along the shores
of Hernando de Soto lake, soutli and west of IJrower island, and on the island
itself, are surpassingly beautiful, as viewed from the north shore.
2 This committee, appointed by the Historical society, to confer with the com-
missioner, as to geographical names at the lta«ca Basin, reported tlie several
names selected, which report was adopted by the society. In this report, it is
stated that "the committee, of their own motion, recommend tlial the island in
Hernando de Soto lake be named 'Brower island.' after ,r. V. Brower."'
288 Till-; Mississii'iM i;i\"i;ic and its soritcK.
Lyendecker lake* Tht> Coinmissiont'r's K 'port. After. Folin
LyendeckiT.
Mikenna lako— Named by Mr. A. .1. Hill.
Alloa lako -The Conimi.ssioners li<'i)ort. After Lieut.
James Allen.
The Pickard du Gay lakes — Named by Hon. T. ^^ T). HiMird.
After one of Hennepin's companions.
I So called by common acet^ptation. ji>
The Itasca Basin. ;- applied to the territory constitutinii
) the utmost limit of the main basin.
Gaygwedo say creek — The Commissioners Report. After
Nicollet's Ojibway guide. " Trying- to-walk."
Andrus creek— Ccmmissioner's Report After the treasun'r
of the Minnesota Game and Pish Commission.
Ocano spring's — The Commissioner's Report. The head
springs of Andrus creek. The word is found iu
Schoolcraft's Narrative.
Spring Ridge — The Commissionei-'s Report. A ridge thrown
up by water pressure, with numerous springs at the
summit.
Spring Ridge creek — The Commissioner's Report. A small
creek flowing into Nicollet's Lower lake from Spring
Ridge.
Cii I til Ian lake — The Commissioner's Report. After Rev. J.
A. Giltillan, who celebrated the first known religious
service at Itasca in 1881, from •• Then had thy peace
been as a river."
McKay lake — The Commissioner's Report. After Rev.
Stanley A. McKay, who celebrated the first known
baptismal rites in the waters at the north end of Itasca
lake, 1891.
Division creek — The Creek coming into the Mississippi.
north of Itasca lake, from the heights, which divide
the waters flowing to Hudson's Bay and the Gulf of
Mexico.
Frazier lake — At Frazier's cabin. The waters of this lake
flow to The Little Mantrap lake.
MK'. ALFKED J. IIILI..
riir. (;oMMissn)NKK s itKrAii.Ki) siuvky. I'-'it
NU'tuada '.aicf I'sM-nit'i'ly a iiortlici-ii limil of I'lif Littlo
Mantrap lak»'.
Tluj Hall road — First o(»('ih'(1 I'or ih." « iovt'i'iitin'Mt siii'\<'.v.
by Pidwiu S. Hall. K7k
TIk' T ii-iil)iill road (>[)tMi<'d l)y tholirst resident. \><^-.
Tilt' Jtascu Slat*' |»ark- Naiii«' established l)y law.
Several otlier names will appeal' upon the final chai-t
KKLATIOX OF ALFKKD .1. IIIIJ. AND < »F
JOHX LVKNDKCKKli.
Soon aft<M' Minne.sota became a state of the Fnion. Mr.
Alfred J. Hill commenced a study of ^'•oo<,'ra[)hic relations
in the Northwest, whicli he has ccmtinued. utiinterniptedly.
until his information has reached the uttermost parts of the
earth's surface, and he is. and should be accredited as. on(»
of the best ^'oo'^raphic aiitliorities resident in the State lie
has adopttnl as his home. At the time of the discovei-ies of
Schoolci'aft and Nicollet at the sou''ce of the Mississippi
were (pi(?stioned. Mr. Hill took a philosophic and unpreju-
diced view of the matter, and refusing to acce]it a chan.ire of
well estal)lished «i-eo<j:raphic facts, as "iven in Is^;]!*;)!) by tiu^
explorers named, he commenced an investi<,'ation into the
details concernin<r discoveries at Itasca lake, and the results
of his study of the question were consolidated and i)ublished
in lH8i), under the title of "Captain Glazier's Claim to the
Discovery of the Source of the Mississi[)pi River." which he
illustrated with several maps. In Mr. Hill's showin*ir of
facts, he presented items of information, consolidated and
condensed, succinctly stated, showing' the published carto-
giaphical authorities relating to the source of the Missis
sippi to the date of his study of the question. His object at
- 19
200 THK MISSISSIIMM IMVKK AND I'lS S()IK<'K
lln' tiiiK! s('«!ins to liiivc Ix'fii a drsirc to slate llic (|iM'stion of
iliscovf'ry <!xu<ttly as it occurnHl, and in (lf)iii<^ so. liis subjoci
"U'as <;oiisid<;ro(l solely upon th<! (iu«;stioii of •^'co'^'i'aphic facts.
This a(;t,iori (liscl<>so(l tiie true li^hl in whicli should Ix-
'. iowod discoveries at, tlu; Itasca liasin, and did not and
could not do oth<'rwise than connnand icsfXict and (consider
ation, even of those who were n(!ith(M- studcuits of histoj-y.
nor \ersed in tlu; rules of ^^•eoj^raphic discovery, sut!i(;iently
to enal>le them to state; a ^eojrraphic fact with(»ut pui-loin-
in^ from the n;cords of predecessors.
At the time the present in(|uiry was wcdl und(!r way and a
<l<;t<M'mination was arrivetl at to exhaustiv(dy consider the
(juestion of discoV(-'i"y. Mr. Hill p<!rsonally t(!nden(i his
services Uj the Commissioner. While at the Insad waters, an
invitation was extende<l to him to visit th(i camp of tlie Com-
missioner at Nicollet's lakes, with a view of securing his c((-
operatif)n and assistanc(j in tlw! tield. hut the it)vitaiion nevec
rc'ached him.
A scholar of Enj^lish birth and a student of tin; lan^ua^es,
his otT»M' t<j assist in tin; formulation of a report was cheer-
fully accei)t<;d, and on th<i 1st and *.>th of November, IHHli,
communications were addressed to him i)ropoundin^ ques-
tions relatin«? to historical facts c(jnnect(id with the early
discoveries of th«! river. His re.sciarch into the S])anish and
French occupancy (jf the Mississippi Uiver basin for and on
bfihalf of the Commissioner, brouj^ht to li^ht in a consoli-
dated form, tindin<^s of fact from the lines of hist<n*ical and
cartof^raphicul information, so accurate and valuable, that
they iiave been incorporated and adopted as a part of this
report, and to him full credit is due; and awarded for that
portion of the work ])laced in his hands.
rni'; commissionku's I)KTAiij:i) sri{\i.;Y. i".il
Wh(!ij i\u' cDiiiiiiiLt*'!' of Ui<! soc.icily upiMiinlrd lo j)r(»|i<!rly
(losij^natc and iiaiii*' localitios at tin; sfmrcc. pi-occu^dod lo
IMM'I'onn the <liJty imposed by its ap{)oiiil iin'nt. Mr. Hill's
services wen; cullud for, and in s(!Vt'ral instanc,«!s iiis icjcsas
and .suf^«^(!sti<)ns w«H'(; in)lini\y inU^n^slin^' and valuabh;, but,
\v<!r(! ad(.r)i(Hl. always with cccvlit, that a just, and j^onnrous
co-oporatio I, prompti^d solely by a love of fairrmss and foi-
facts, shall not r<Mnain unrenuMnbered by those who may
socure pcotitablo information from th<; rcisults <.f ivjsoarches
inad(! without tho hope or (expectation of i-eward. It has Ix^en
statod that "ovory man is a valuaVjh; m<Mnber of socit'ty wlio,
by his obs<.'rvations, r(\s(!ar(;h(!S and (!xporien(;es, procures
kn(jwled;^e foi- men" an apt illustj'ation which tindsawell
dosorvod application in a consideration of Mr. IlilTs work.'
From the vory commcncemijnt of «^o\erninent survceys in
^linn<!Sota, up to th<; present tim<\ he has drawn corr<*<;t
and comi)lete f^«!omctrical abstracts for his pcu'sonai use and
study, and his dead reckoning, for the latitude' and lon<^itude
of Schoolcraft island. corre(tt(ed apparent errors in the ob-
servations taken from time to time in that distant interior.
no two of which are found to a^n^e.
t Till- fiillnwiii;; MH'riiitraiKliMii iridii'silcs I In- sltuM-rll y of |Hii|ii»f « ll li » lilrli his
labors wcif iici'ijriiplisluMl:
"Mr Itri^wcr rci|iirstc(l rue Id ••r)U"'<'l t,<)j;<!lJicr In ;i lurmolr, fur llic iisi; of liis
rcpiirl (III till! Siiurc<! (,t llir Mississippi, t.titt iiiosl siKiiltiiMtit ritcts Id lif fotiiiil In
iicc-fsslhli' Spunlsh iitul [''ri'iirli vvrllln;.'s, (■uiicri'iiInK tln^ discovery of llils river.
Tliert! Hi!eiiic(i to l)e no treat is(! or arllele on tin; sulijm't as ii whole, wrlllt^n fiimi.*,,
exeluslvely ^uo^raphii-ul point of view. Tliu task of ■■ollatloii iiiid seliictlon has
proved to 1x1 a ^realei one than was anticipated, and altliou);li all maps and hooks
procnrahle at St . I'aul and hearln;; on t he MUhjecl iia ve heen consnlled. 1 he piipir.
Ion;: as It is. is hy no Inc-.ins exiiauslixu. I'ossihlv ll cont ains errors of varions
Mnds, hut they can scarcely he avoidcil when the work of ;i ye.-ir has to he crowded
into tl\ e nioni lis."
Over two years have elapsed since Mr lllll wrote thcso Units, durinjr whicii <lnni
lie has made further lilstorlcal researi-hi-s, <;iiuhllnK liim to t lioiou'.{hly revise Ids
woik. materially .'iddin'.' to the value of this work, more espeidally on the Spanisli
discoveries
ono
92 THK MISSISSIIM'I KIVKIi AXI) ITS SOURCE.
The writer ol' lliis i-cport is gratified to know that his sur-
voy of. and tindings conc('rnin«jf tho source of th<> Missis-
sippi, meet tho approbation of Alfred J. Hill.
It is intended to malcc suitable acknowled<jrements for
assistance extend(>d in the prc^sent examination and with
that end in view it is thought not out of place to award *o
another, than Mr. Hill, the consideration due painstaking
aid, before the close of this report.
Mr. John Lyendecker, whose energetic taste for inacces-
sible regions, made it convenient for him to penetrate to the
inner wilds of the Adirondacks, followed a natural inclina-
tion by becoming a visitor at the source of the Mis;sissii)pi.
bj'" protracted sojourns at Itasca and the morainit* belt south
and east of it. Ho rendered unselfish and valuable assist-
ance in 1888. in a casual examination of the whole Basin. In
1889, Mr. Lyendecker entered upon another prolonged visit
at Itasca, with his camp on the north arm. remaining from
the month of October until about the first of January. 1890.
He was requested to note jjarticularly the appearance of the
waters at the source as compared with the examination in
1888 and to leport for this examination :my and all changes
or other items of interest at his eonvenienci^. His well
known reliability and candor make the receipt of his report
of special interest, confirmatory of the condition of the
waters at Itasca as comi)ared with the four seasons imme-
diately preceding the month of December 1889.
In Mr. Lyendecker's report, dated December 15th, 1889,
at Itasca lake, it is stated that the creek recently designated
as Chambers creek, by the Historical society, "is very low,
about one inch deep and narrow, half way between the two
lakes. 1 easily . tepped across it. In the largest stream en-
X
^
X
0
X
/. ■-
— X
<
THE LOMMISSlUNKli'S DETAILED .'•:UUVEV. 1'93
teriiig Itasca lake a half a mile to the westward, the water
is fully as abundant as at the date of our visit there in Octo-
ber, 1888. There is no change, except the waters of Itasca
lake are a little hi;u:her. and in Morrison lake, six feet below
hi^h water marks on the shores." * * *
Perhaps to another. Mr. E. Hayes, .should be awarded
credit for topo«jfraphical laboi'. in October and November.
1891.
In his report the topography at and about Hernando do
Soto and Morri.son lakes, ai)pears. which places them in
their correct position on the final chart. Mr. Hayes says:
••I have visited this region on two dift'erent occasions and
have examined the water systems. At the most southerly
point of the west arm of Itasca lake, is Nicollet's infant
river, the most important stream, both in volume of water
and in length." * * *
Mr. A. T. Warner and companions,^ also visitors at Nicol-
let's discoveries, in May. 1891, united in an interesting re-
port, in which they say: ••* * * One of (jur party went
up the Nicollet outlet, some three hundred yards in a canoe,
and found it the larger, and as it proceeds from a point
south of Elk lake, and as we believe Elk lake was once a
part of Lake Itasca, it is our opinion, that the Nicollet lakes
are the true source of the Mississippi."
THE CONCLUSIONS OP THE COMMISSIONER.
As the results of an investigation and examination, cover-
ing the period from October, 1888, to October 189:2, a por-
tion of which has been availed of for the })urpose of an
incidental research into the question relating to the original
1 Messrs. U. I'. Wariu'r. 1). J. Soliollor and \V. H. l'l:iii<li"iu.
294 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
discovery of the Mississippi river and its source, deemed
necessary in order to trace the lines of discovery, from date
to date, from the mouth of the river to its utmost origin,
preparatory to an intelligent consideration of the question
of the ultimate source, there are ample reasons, as pre-
sented herein, which warrant the following conclusions,
founded upon the facts as stated:
FiKST: The Espiritu Sancto, as originally laid down ujjon
the earliest Spanish maps, was not the Mississippi river.
Second: The Lower Mississippi river was undoubtedly
discovered by Hernando de Soto in June, A. D., ir)41.
Third: Groseilliers and Radisson in A. D., 160.'), discov-
ered the Upper Mississippi river.
Fourth: Wm. Morrison, in 1804, H. K. Schoolcraft, in
1832, and Jean N. Nicollet, in 18-56, were the first of white
men to discover the source of the Mississippi, in the order
in which they are named; Mr. Morrison being the first to
reach the Basin; Mr. Schoolcraft, the first to explore Itasca
lake, and to publish the results of his exploration with a
chart; and Mr. Nicollet, the first to discover the principal
affluent, although he did not know of the existence of the
Greater Ultimate Reservoir, of which his middle lake con
stitutes a northern limit.
Fifth: The Itasca Basin is the most remote water-shed
upon the main river, from its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico.
This Basin is compact, limited and permanent, within
which Itasca lake forms the central reservoir at the lowest
depression; Morrison, Hernando de Soto, The Triplets.
Whipple, Floating Moss, the Nicollet and other neighboring
lakes, the Greater Ultimate Reservoir; Josephine, Ako.
Danger, The Twin and Mary lakes, the Lesser Ultimate
THE COMMISSIONEh'S DETAILED SURVEY. -^Xf
Reservoir, and Clarke lake and the lakes surrounding^ it. the
Midway Reservoir; with smaller intermediate contributory
reservoirs intervening and gathered at the sides; the whole
being formed by twenty principal lakes of different areas,
and about fifty lakes and pools of water of lesser import-
ance, with one principr.l, three intermediate and thirty-five
minor streams of running water, and several large and im-
portant springs.
Sixth: The principal, longest and largest stretyn within
the basin, is that particular stream discovered by Jean N.
Nicollet, August 29th, 1836. heretofore known as ••Nicollet's
Infant Mississippi River." It draws its supply of water
from the Greater Ultimate Reservoir. This supply is the
immediate result of secular aerial precipitation, gathered
into the lakes of the locality, forming the Greater Ultimate
Reservoir, which extends from Hernando de Soto. Morrison.
The Triplets. Whipple and Floating Moss lakes, the Missis-
sippi, Nicollet and other flowing springs, to Nicollet's mid-
dle lake from which the main river proceeds thence to the
Gulf in an unbroken channel.
This stream is therefore found to be the Mississippi river.
Seventh: Elk lake is not the source of the Mississippi
river.
Eighth: Since minute deductions are propounded, the
distances being short and the waters limited, it was thought
jDroper to go beyond Itasca lake and learn of the actual
source whence these historic waters originate; the result
being an interesting discovery of remote reservoirs, here-
tofore unknown to exist, as such; from which a constant and
never ending supply reaches Itasca lake, sustaining it in a
perennial out -flow.
'29C^ THF. MTSSISSIPIM IJIVK.Ii AND ITS SOURCE.
Ninth: (ioin^'- beyond tlie oxi)l<)rations of Nicollet, des-
cribed in his report, intended to illustrate a map of the
hydrof^raphieal basin of t le Upi)er Mississippi river, ordered
printed by the se])arate Houses of the Con;Lrress of Ihv
United States, the tru j and actual source of the Mississippi
river is The GiiEATEii Ultimate llESEiiVOiii. from which
the principal portion of the waters of Itasca lake are drawn,
through the channels particularly described, and which
waters ive thence discharged into the river below.
In the hope that the result of consciencious research, per-
formed with unremitting labor and care, may prove instruc-
tive and beneficial, this report and the conclusions thereon,
based upon the facts as they liave been found to exist, and
as the most complete hydrographic and topographic survey
of the source, is respectfully submitted, duly acknowledging
that these explorations come after the labors of the distin-
guished gentlemen, who preceded me in 1808. 18I5L', 183(5 and
1886 at the Itasca Basin, claiming only such measure of
credit as a more extended survey and discovery may entitle
me to r >iceive. Respectfully- submitted.
THE COMMISSIONERS DETAILED SURVEY. 2i)'t
Mkmokaxki'M: Tln! tnii' Mini ;iclii;il soiirri' of the Mls«.i»i|ii)i. rnniirtMl to In'
fniliid, us ;i loull iif tlif i'\;iiiilliiilliiil fur tliiil piiipo-f, lis pill I iculii ily ilescrihcil
ami si't for 111 in llir pn'iT<liii_' .-ub-ilh Niun- li;is Ih-imi (Ic^iLTiiiitt'd us ji (li-.t i-ict, pre-
ferable to a >i«'i-i)le. (leleriiiiiial)le and paitleiilar I'lraliori iipnii thf earth's
-iirface ill a naturally permanent lacustral I'orinal ion. lieeaiisea watt'r-.slie<l. with
well detiufd inner llanlcs. eoiitiiinin^' a perniuiient rt'scrvoir of water euiisint; the
existeni'C and perpetual eontiniiaiife of tlie source of a river. Is in fact, the iiio-t
remote source, not w illistandin;,' llie ijossiliility of artesian piessure. wliicli lioex iml
exist at Here /lido de Soto and Morrison lakes, as a siipjdy to tlio>e la lies.
To proceed iip4in the basis that liie source of a river Is at tlie i)ait;cular spot
most remote from Ms mouth, where tiie water first coiJimeiices its lloway:e upon
the surface, in an unliroUeii channel to the sea, would 'orce upon the student of
neosriaphical expluralion-. a narrow and limiled rule, icsultinjr in the discovery of
ati inferior point, dependent entirely upon subsidiary diannels, yel ignorin>f tlie
existence of the real source from which t he water may be or is drawn.
If to follow the cliannel of tht^ Mississipjji from the (iulf of Mexh'o to the most
remote point of surface llowa^re In any way connected tlierewith, in iievrsisnry, n
Older to (li>cover the source, we must turn aside from the ^rand anil extensive
valley of 1 lie Mississipiji, reacliiu;; from the imrl hern limit of t he I'niled Slates to
the liiilf, with all lis topo;;raphic features and well defined peculiarities, and pass
up the channel of the Missouri river to some jxiiiit in the liocky Mountains, to the
exclusion of the Itasea Basin, for the reason that the source of the Mls.sourl—
water eomlnf; In at one side— is more remote from tlie mouth of the Missi.s.sippi
tliau is the Greater Ultimate Reservoir, at the utmost northern limit of tlie .Mis-
sissippi Kivcr basin.
However desirable it iiii;fht be to reverse llie order of llie well establlslied geo-
L'raphy eoni-ernin;; the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, in order tliat the longest
■ •liannel may be desiglated as the one principal si ream — a necessity, if Ibis limited
lule must be followe<l it should lie rememliered and properly considered that,
from the earliest times coming within iaiman knowledge, pre-historic. aboriginal.
Spanish, French, English and American, every rei-ognition has ])ointnd to the
great valley and its river as the main water—lied, to the exclusion of the Missouri,
and upon tliis rule of action. trit)al i)ossessions, international boundary liiu's,
enactments by Congress, Articles of War and Tre.ities of Peace in Europe and
America, reciprocal concessions, government api)n>priai ions and improvements.
L'onimercial tratlic. state boundaries, educational li'acliiiigs and the nomenclature
of portions of the I'edeial I'nioii. have adhered — all this and more in consonance
with tlie great topogr.-iphic features of nat •■ as tliey exist (he wliele length and
breadth of the Mississippi Ri\er basin, wii ii the Missouri as as a continent river
coming in at one side. It would appear that this rule, "tliat the ^otiyof surface
channel must be followad in order to find the utmost Source" of tlie .Mississippi, is
in direct eonllict with every natural cause that has l)rought into existence the
history of tiie discovi'ry. 1 he occupancy, and the liydrogr:i|)liic and topographic
I'hai'ts of the ba-.in of the Mississippi as it di\ ide^ from north to south, tlie eastern
and western limits of the Iniied Stales, wiili its subdivisions, as divided by tlie
Alleghany and other ranges, and tlie Ivoeky Mountains, bordeii-ing respectively
upon the east and west, the basin of tlie river. If, for these and other reasons,
sudi a rule is too iianow and limited to lie ell'ec-tive tind consistent, w hy follow it,
when to do so would unsettle and bring into eonllict the very foundations of ter-
torial organizations, comnierci.-vl and other numerous municiiial relations, hereto-
fore deemed and believed to correspond with natuic's topographic facts and
conditions? Tlien again, follow the same rule, leaving the .Missouri liver out from
any consideration tiiereuiider, and in passing up the trough of the Itasca Basin by
i'OH THE MISSFSSII'IM lilVKK AN'I) ITS SOritCE.
• he. lonKBHt siirfiiiic i'li;iiint'l of niiiniiiL' \v:ili'i', llicii' mii .| ht- selectod from the
iii(<"«slliin si n'ii IMS full 11(1 then', till <iiii' wlii.so lifsui Is iiii>-,| ii'inotc frmn the norlli
fiiil and outlt't iif I(!i-<'ii liiki', and I liii< uw. wIuMIht it In- sulisldliiry or priiicipiil,
cniitliicnt (ir iittliiciit. nnist lif. ;ii'riil ruilly. poiiilol out and dfsi;;iiat('d us tlii'
Mississippi rlviT. Ill conllliM witli tli«> cxlsilnir to|)o;;iiii)lik' fi-aliirt's as tli«>y urt'
found tlicrc.
St'lcctln;; from tli<> list tin- piiiicipal -ticaiiis at Itiis<>ii. ilii'lr ri'spcci i\'t> l<Mii;tlis
art! as follows. Iiy tlu' mii fare {■hninifl from tin- north onil of Itas<'a lakr:
To the hoad of Howard cri-ek :,'!*,!»rc' feel .
To llu' lu-ad of Dt'iiiarav creok •.T.OoJ "
To t ho lu-ad of The I'rl nrlpal 8tr«>ani > 27.ia) '
To the head of Mary crcfk -i 26,297 •'
Tothehoadof Houtwoll creek 22.327 •■
To Elk lake-t 17.827 "
Thus, follfiwiiiR literally and strictly, ilils arlillrary rule, the head of Howard
ereek '. would be discovered as the xiurceof the Mississippi, to the e\el us Ion of the
larger and more important jirlneipal sireanis tiowlni; out of the north end of
Whipple lake, re-apiiearln^ at 'lie Mis-»l-»slppl Sprlniis and flowlufr in a detached
upper channel, under a cru->i m ■arth, wlilcli forms a very narrow, natural hrldse.
betwet'ii Nli'ol let's Upper aii<l Middle lakes, and. with Howard and Demaray creeks
coniluK 111 atone side as branches, thence to Itasca lake and the sea.
Howard creek Is a picturesque little stream, with swift ami perniaiient llowaKc,
the luliilniuni of which fills Its bed constantly, and Its head, surrounded by pre-
cipitous hills, is a sprlnj» or pool, tlu; waters of which flow directly out of the earth.
i|iiito sitnilar to tlie Mississippi .><prln'_'s. Hut this creek is linilted In sl/e, com-
parted with the nialii stream of whice It is a branch, the same as Demaray creek
and Spriiij? Hidj;e creek, ("ominoii sensi> prescribes a r(>asoiial)le lilierality In tin-
inspection and exariiiuat ion of nat ure's process, and to force its cause would be a
futile endeavor to dictate in luatters over which we have no control, unless by
artificial interferences and appliances. There is no reason why we should distort
the facts of nature, in order to follow a limited and Impracticable rule. In case it
leads In an opposite direction from existing facts. The head of Howard i-reek Is
not the soui'ce of the Mississippi. becaus(> the channel of the muin stream Is broken
by the i)eculiar natural formation at Nicollet's I'pper lake, where the stream
Hows Into the liowels of the earth and out l<> the surface aaaiii a few' feet over the
brow of tlie natural bridse there located
Reference is made to the i(uest ion of wiiicli point is t lie source of a river when a
welldetlned permanent lake is t he orijtiiial w.-iler, Thereshould be no (|uestion
that the part of the lake where the first flow of water commences tlierefroni. Is.
minutely, the source, to the exclusion of the body of the lake Itself, though for
popular comparison tlie lake, as a lake, is usually designated as the sourc«! of the
river. Tf the lake he one hundred miles lon>;, and the river, bavins Its source
therein, one hundred miles Ions, it would force the construction of nature's Invin-
cible ruletosay tiiat the river w.is two hiDtdred imleji in length. Thesiissestlon that
the size of a lake jrlv ins source to a river, ismaterial. is an absurdity . A lake.
howev«'r sin.iU and obscure, ffom wbicli a river takes Its rise can well iie popiihirly
desisnated as tlie source.
1. At the base of the hills, above Nicollet's Middle lake.
2. The leiisth of Mary lake not Included, because the ereek llowlns into It, above
the lake, is not pt>reiinial.
:i. Leiisth of Elk lake not Included, hecau.se the several cre»'ks entering It bave
been found, on one or more dates, to be entirely dry, ami In winter closed by
frcezlns and ice.
4. See chart showins location of Howard creek, draining a limited ravine which
forms a part of Nicollet Valley. This ravine is a part and portion of the Greater
Ultimate Reservoir Rowl.
THE CUMMISSIDNKU'S DETAII.Kl) SLUVEV. L'9lt
Tlic (liiiiiict rii°;i| (irili't'of the llnwuf ;i rlvcf Is uttvi'i'tid Ici. It i- iiol iifrfssary
tliut ii river slimild How rniin one point of tlif foiiipii-.-. to Unit illrfi'lly itppoMltc.
Such a I'oiicliisloii. Ion;; sliii'c -in^r^jt'stiMl, Is erroiicoii-. and, if :i(lo))l('il, would, of
iifi'i'ssity. Ignore the topo^raphlr fi-iiliiiTs wliirli snrroiind aiid oon-<t It utt- the
^'iitt-r-slied and valk>>s from ulil<-li and t>iroii;;li which, the principal rivers of the
World take their course. It inattersnot If the valley or liasin he circiiiloiis, i)ro-
vldedthe ilellticd condit Ions of tliat |)art of the siirface of tlie earth, foriniti;; the
Valley o hasln, conllrnisthe »tatenicnt thai It Is the main water-slied. lhrou«'i
wliich the chief river talies lis How. to the e.\clii8ii)n of ■.iih-.idiary -.tT'eam-^. cotn-
iii); ill ut t lie > Id e from less extensive \ alleys or liasins.
The Mississippi river from tlie Itasca hasiii. to t he inoiith of the Crow Win;;, the
St. Louis river, from its source to Lake Sup«'rior, and the Hed liiver of the North,
from Itssourroto ttic forty-seviMit h (le;;ret' of North latitude, each constitute ii
half circle In tlie condition of th«>lr respective courses, us controlled liy the topo-
Kraphy of tlie wiitei-slieds wliicli lliey drain, and each ri\er mentioned. In it-
course, flows to every point of the compass in one or more portions of its surface
flowaK"'- The rivers mentioned. How to the (iiilf of Mexico. I lie Atlantic, and to
Hudson's Hay. respectively, draining: tliree of tiie principal water->lieds of North
Aiiierlcu. all taking' their rise in the northern port ion of Minnesota near to each
other. Till' St. Li.uis river. In tliis reference, is deemed to he the head waters of
the St. Lawrence.
It Is not deemed necessary to take up a coiisiderat ion of the entire list of tlie
princi]>al rivers of tlie world, whether in nunintai nous districts, (les<'rts or prodiici-
ive re^jions, in fri;!i(l, temperate or t i'o|)ical climates, to liidlcat«> the neceseity of
adopting; tlie common law of iial ure. whicli has formed the source, the wal -shed,
the course, fl()wa;:e. continuance and ending of every river of purmaneni cxisl-
ence, and It will surely prove futile to undertake the ta-k of iipplyiii^ tictitioiis
and iintenalile opinions, contrary to the natural cond it ions ever present upon the
surface of the earth, as the waters are taken fi-om the hosom of the oceans and
precli)itate(l. by meteorological and climatic action, when the .source, the course
aiidlhe endintr of rivers. Is determined, iheoretii'ally or hy actual surveys in the
field of operation or ohservance. Where is the waler precipitated at the source of
a river, and how is it ;f at he red into the clianiiel of the stream, are propositions
which were ever present in ihe ex.'iniinat ion at tin' source of tlie Mississippi, for no
other procedure would so well apply, in hrinu'in;; to lijflittlic facts as nut ure has
presented them there, and a distortion of those facts, would iie but an erroneous
theory. This applies, of course, to a lai'iistrlne region, similar to the head wati'r
basin of the Mi.ssissippi.
The fact that thert; exist rivers in mountainous districts, which depend upon
meltlnfi snows and lee, for a supply of water, rivers in arid re^rions, which are
often entirely dry ; rivers in rocky a n<l limestone districts, dependins upon arte-
sian pressure for a supply, and various and widely ditTereiit conditions extant at
the.source of all the livers of the world, as compared with each other, the undis-
puted and indisputalile proposlt ion. that every river of the world, owes Its exist-
ence to a natural cause and effect, as demonstrated by the process of i)ri'clpitati<)ii,
must be. of necessity, ever present in determiiiiiij.' the true source of each, and if
this be admitted, we must turn to the water-sheds at the utmost limit from the
mouth of all our rivers to find the source. True, there may be Isolated Instances
where the application of sudi a rule would seem to be fallacious, but can there not
be remote exceptions to any know n rule'i' An important instance is noted to show
the effect of a water-shed. Situated in the very center of the northern half of the
State of Mlnnest)ta is a well defined basin, oblong: in its forination. about one hun-
dred miles lonjr and fifty in widtlit . Within this basin there are nearly one thous-
1 See Chart.
.'{00 TIIK MISSI-RIIMM UIVKR AND ITS SOCRCK.
tind liiki>-<. lar^i' uikI Niimll. uihI ihiiik'Ioii- ^iichihs. 'I'IiI- liiislii !•< iilniust cntlri'ly
■.ilffoilliili'tl tiy lii'l;ililH of liitlil :iii(llln' .M is-i-^lppl <l)>Mi-i'ri(ls mil friiiii It ovrr I lie
rnUi'_'jini:i FiilN. I'lnni tin- litrifl' llaiiUs nf llii'-i' lifl'.'lilM of luml. the stniilliT
-1 Irani-. How (luwii to t lir i-i'iitiT of t he l)M-iil ill ill fnliii I lie M l->i»||)|il, t lir pi Irn'l-
pal .Hliviim of t lit' wiilff->liiil. Till- iiiilliiMi«iiif yolloii-. of water ^lliiali'd within
t Ills lliiiitfil lit'ail-wati'r liasin litis lii-cii ilrawii f loni I lie orniiis liy mil iiral i-:iii'^i'->.
It is hiti-n-st In;; to iiotr tlmt wliilc tin- waters of tlio liiiii'r Hanks of t his hasln, llow
to the .MIsHissippi, til*' outer tianks supply watrrs wlili-h form strt-uins to the utist-
warfl, tlowin;; to Ltikj- Superior; to the iiorthwiird, llowiiivr to lhi> I-iiko of the
Woods; to till! West ward. How lim to the lied Ki ver of 1 lie N iirt h, liml to t li«^ soiit h-
ward, llowiiii.' to the t'row Wiriu' river. Tliii-lii this \ cry 1 iiiiiled t erritory, eoiii-
paratively ■•peakin;;, t he siininiil of theao helLrhts of land diNchar;;e precipitated
waters in all opposite diiei't Ions. Within this ba-'in at tli<' lii'ad water system of
t he Mississippi, in following; the eliannel of tho main st leatn up throu^'h the t rou'-'h
of tho l)asln. tin; Leeeh lak<'. Turtle and ^■elillw Mead rivers, come in as principal
1 1 ihutarics. dr:iiniiiv' sped fie portions of t he I low I, ii.s like wise do other and less im-
port unt streams, until the Itasea portion of the u|>per wuter-shed is i-eaehed, where
a distlnet and limited Uasiri exists, nearly surrounded by thu Kmitiiirs drs Tenrx of
the locality, and passiny; up t his liaslei tlie extreme limitof the rpi)er Mississippi
water-shed is found at tlie (irealer ritimatu Iteservoir, with the principal stream
of tin' locality flowinir out of it. The mere rivalry of orii-'inal disi'oveiy of some
one part icular lake of tlie locality, .'is com p. i red with some other i;iUe t here, is not
a correct liiisis upon whii'h to delermitie tli(> source. For popular comparison,
Itascii lake has beenknown for over half a i-ent ury, us the source of tlieMtssisi-
sippi, but that do«-s not and catinot make it the ultimate source in reality, when to
remove the reservoirs above smd beyond it, Itasca Itself, as ii lake, would cease to
supply the river runnin;; from it. and the lake would recede to narrowiu' limits
within its own shores, for want of I Ik; Water siipi)ly now constantly cominir from
above It. tin; iiillow rejiuLitin^; and cont roilm; thi'outliow. However dcsiial)le it
mi^lit be to continue this pieference for 1 1 asea lake, it cjiii be but a (luestioii of
sentiment, for cjitainly it is not one of fact; and in dctermininjr that thetireati'r
Ultimate Reservoir is tiie iit most limit of the water-siied of the Mississippi basin,
;i rule has l)eeii followed which nature itself dictates, as ttio only .•md ieasonal)le
procedure by which to tind the true source of the Mississippi.
These conclusions iire by no meatis hastily drawn, iKjr are they rteeine<l to be of
any very ;:reat importance It is simply a verifii-alion of the discovery of ueo-
i:rapiiic facts. They Ix'come of interest, that the minule..| tibersof iiat ure'scause,
shall not be infrin;;ed. so far as the present subject is treated.
It should not b»,' iield tiiat tliese conclusions are drawn in opposition lodistiii-
Snished authorities. The Royal (ieofirapliical So<'iely of Kimland. tlirouy:h ils
secretary, advises that it "has never laid down any rule defining,' what constitutes
the source of a rlv<;r."
Prof. W. M. Davis of Harvard CoUeixe lias been kind enoil-^li to enter into a cor-
respondence in an exehaiine of vii-ws, touching the quest ioti. and it would appear
that he inclines to the lonjrest suifaee channel, irhcriirr it may be found. This
view would take him to thi' summit of tlieUocky Mountains for the source of the
Mississippi, al)ove. beyond, and at the sidi' of the main basin of the river, and at
Itasca lake It would t;ikehimto the head of Howard creek, distinctly iiat the
principal st ream, :iilhoi|i;li it is tlie most remott.' of all permanent, uiunttnuiiliti
surface channels found flowing there. I'lof. Davis i.s regarded as a distinguished
authority and from him a more extended and netirly oyposite opinion is expressed
from tlial which comes fr,;'ii European fret)srapliers. lie believes it to be tho fault
of terminology, t'liiifxinii to the limited rule of a lonjiest surface channel, nature's
principal topographic features must be ignored, that tlu' lesser stream may be fol-
THK r(».M.M";'.iuNKUs i»i:taim:i» si i;\ i;y
:,(il
lowed III I lir ll('lxlit> I'f hi'lil. tcF I 111' 1 M'lil^i HI iif I 111' 1)1 ilir||t:il lU i| . In -laicji liili
fur II Miiirrt', niiifly iiimhi IIk- i|iii-.liiiii nf liii'.'ih .is ;i-.i'criiiliicil ft- im :irl iiii! niilii-
tcrriiiitfcl mirfiur lluMa'.'i-.
I'lilliiwlii:: I hcne Viiryllli: ami «li|i'ly ililVriiiil iipliiliiiix lifil»iiiii tnizlil 111- 111-
t*'i'|iiiliili'il. wcfi' il lint Itiiil ail iK't ii.'il \ ii'W iif t 111' |ir4'iiilT>. i|('iiiiiii-.i rati'!" Ihi' licsi
cvliji'iii'i- iif I'xistln.: facts, ami I In mi: 1 1 II may ami dniilit Ir-s \\ III lii' su'J'.'<"-Ii'iI, that
till' fniiiiiii.: i>f ii '.'iMicral iiili' I'niifnnii- in tiir -.(iiim- uf I In- MK-I— -l|i|)l. It iiilLiht 'm-
\V«-1I In liciir ill III I III I t ll.'lt till' If la I Inn It hi'lirs, as i-niii|iai'i'il ultll I lir rUiT sy ..ictus
of tlif> World. I'liiisl It nil's a iii'i- ■■itiliii'iit irfi'ii'in'i". i'i|iiali'd liy ffW. iiiid cM-fcdfil
liy till prlin'ltial wiitiT I'mirsi- nf tin- lart li. iiialiitiiliiiiii: iiiTi-iiiilal rl Vi*r draliia;;*'
('oiiHlitt>rlii'.; rlliiiutli' cxtmnrs, vai'liiiis t'i|iii-.'l'U|iliic fi'iitiirt's. imiiintiiin Miniccs.
1,'iUi'H a^id iiihinr rIviTs and strfams. wlilrli art* I'oiit illiiitory In llif main ilvcr nf
till' Mls>|«sl|)|il liiislii. It may In- well assiTli-d. thai II luis no siiptTlnr, and didlltfi-
alraml innsldM-ati- ai'tinn In ilia« In;; I'nnrliisjnn-* frmii an I'vaiulnallnn as tn Its
III ninst snni'fi'. niiv;lit nnl In In- made iMnfnrmlilaMi' tnnlisciirr st ii'Hiiili'ts, tn whli'li
a irfiii'ial Unnwlfd^ri' « ill ih'mi- \>r dliii-ti'd
Tin- tn|)n.rr.-i|)lilr and l:> ilini:i-a|ihli' fi-al iiiis Inimidialidy rniini'iMi'd wit h t hr l■\-
t rciiic Ilinll nl' till' .Missis>||i|)i hasiii. have lii'i'ii fniind to lie an Inii-ii'stlin; study,
and part li'iilar i-ari' has hfi'ii ohsi'rM'd In pnsfnl liiK only tin- f:u'ls, ^rt'oiiraphli-
and historic, siitHidt'nlly llliisirati'«l. w hiiOi prfscnt In cnnniTl inn with llir f^iiaiilsli
and l'rfiii-h disj-iivi-rii's, in tinsi-whn dislri' It. a iiinii inplctc ri-i'nid fn.m
w lili'h In fnllow the risi- and i-oiirsi' nf mir Kri-ali'st rivi-r.
APPENDIX.
flow THE MISSISSIPPI PvIVER AND THE LAKE OF THE
WOODS BECAME INSTRUMENTAL IN THE ESTABLISH-
MENT OF THE NORTHWESTERN BOUNDARY OF THE
UNITED STATES.
I!^ Al.KUKK .). UlLI,.
i! 1. INTKODfCTOKY.
About one hundred and twenty miles north of the Itascan or true
source of the Mississippi river, or eighty-five of those of Turtle river,
its northern branch, lies the Lake of the Woods. At this lake begins
that part of the boundary of the United States that is formed by the
forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, which thence pursues its west-
ward course until the waters of the Pacific ocean are reached in far
distant Washington. But yet, leaving Alaska out of consideration,
this line does not form the most northern limit of the American pos-
sessions: for, at the Lake of the Woods, by the boundary line being
carried some thirty miles to the northward and westward from the
mouth of Rainy Lake river, and then due south to the forty-ninth
parallel, a tract of land is included of about one hundred and fifty
square miles in extent. This is the most northern laLd, with the
exception noted, under American rule, but it is practically valueless,
being mostly covered with a deep bog; and, in addition, is inaccessible
from other American soil except by crossing the broad surface of the
lake.
Why was this line so run? The question has been oft^n asked, and
at various times answered in print, but not so fully as the subject
allows or, it may be, is worthy of. That the boundary was not origin-
ally established in order to include the tract of land described, nor yet
any particular bay or other actual topographical feature of the lake,
is sure. None of the statesmen who from time tt> time gave attention
-20
306 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
to the matter, toward the end of the last century or in the first two
decades of this one, had any correct knowledge of the lake in gen-
eral, much less of any particular part of it.
f ue head-waters of the Mississippi are in no way connected with
the Lake of the Woods: neither hydrographically, for they flow into
different seas; nor corumercially, for no trade route ever ran between
them. Yet they were long connected politically, seeing that during a
period of time equalling two generations their relationships were dis-
cussed at intervals by the diplomatists of two nations, and their
names wtjre often met with in the state papers of the two countries.
This article is not designed for a complete account of the North-
western boundary of diplomacy, but only for a history of that portion
of it which lies westward of the mouth of the Rainy Lake river, in
order to illustrate the political connection referred to, and therefore
as little matter as possible is introduced that does not concern the
U»pic so restricted. Still, as some point on the upper Mississippi river
was a sine qua non of the very earliest projects for the establishment
of a national boundary in the northwest, brief statements of them and
their fortunes have to be given; for, if this were not done the reader
would not be placed in possession of a knowledge of all the most im-
portant incidents— now attainable— that contributed to the creation
of a curious geographical and political imbroglio.
In the presentation of the facts a chronological ordc^r is followed as
far as practicable.
^2. The first ruoposmoNs fou a nortiiwesteun uounu-
AKY TO THE UNITED STATES: AND THE LINE FINALLY
AOREED UPON. 1779-1783.
Canada was ceded to Great Britain in 1763, and by this cession were
necessarily ended all th(> persistent claims that had been made by the
Hudson's Bay Company for a line of demarcation which should divide
their occupancy and territory from those of the French in North Am-
erica. But within twenty years another boundary line was defined
that trenched upon the water-shed of the Bay of Hudson, and even
entered the territory of the Company as they understood it; but witli
this new boundary neither of the former parties had anything to do.
APPENDIX. 307
In her turn Great Britain had been shorn of American possessions
V)y the successful revolt of her colonies, but not deprived of all of
them; for, in addition to Florida, she still retained the icy regions of
tlie far north, as well as Canada, i.e., whatever territory this latter
term might be construed to imply.
The war between the ci-devant colonies and the mother country was
still in full blast— and by no means displaying the most favorable as-
pect for the former in the light of the capture of Savannah by the
English, whi^h had occurred but a short time before— when the ques-
tion of the future boundaries of the new nation llrst came up for dis-
cussion by its representatives in Congress.
It was in February, 1779, that Gerard, the minister from France to
the United States, urged upon Congress the appointment of a commis-
sioner to take part in negotiations for a general peace, when such
should occur; as it became necessary to formulate conditions beyond
the main demand of independence. On the 23d of that month, there-
fore, a special committee, to whom had been referred certain "official
letters and communications received from Paris," reported that cer-
tain articles were absolutely necessary for the safety and independence
of the United States and therefore ought to be insisted on as the ulti-
matum. The first of these articles was concerning the bounds, whicii
were to be as follows:
" Northerly by the ancient limits of Canada, as contended for by
Great Britain, running from Nova Scotia south-westerly, west, and
north-westerly, to Lake Nepissing, thence a west line to the Missis-
sippi; * * * * ind westerly by the river Mississippi."
On March 19, "Congress took into consideration the report of the
Committee of the Whole, and agreed to the following ultimata:
"1. That the thirteen United States are bounded north by a line
***** thence due west in the latitude of forty-flve
degrees north from the equator, to the north-western most side of tlia
river St. Lawrence, or Cadaroqui; thence strait to the south end of
Lake Nepissing, and thence strait to the source of the river Missis-
sippi; west by aline to be drawn along the middle of the river Missis-
sippi from its source to where the said line shall intersect the latitude
of thirty-one degrees north,'' &c.
308 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEH AND ITS SOURCE.
This second description of the boundary was, on August 14, embodied
by Congress in the draft of instructions then approved by them for
the use of the minister to be appointed to negotiate a peace. Contin-
uing, the instructions read:
"But, notwithstanding the clear right of these States * * »
that if the line to be drawn from the mouth of the lake Nepissing to
the head of the Mississippi cannot be obtained without continuing
the war for that purpose, you are hereby empowered to agree to some
other line between that point and the river Mississippi; provided the
same shall in no part thereof be to the southward of latitude forty-
five degrees north," &c.
John Adams was the man chosen for such commissioner, receiving
his appointment from Congress on September 27. He was to treat
with Great Britain whenever that power should be prepared to
acknowledge the independence of the United States. So Mr. Adams
went to France, but official influence there was thrown against the
initiation of a treaty at that time, and by one man, unless the man
were P^'ranklin, the minister already on the ground. Next year he
repaired to Holland, where he was appointed minister.
But on June 1"). 1781, Mr. Adams' commission was annulled by
Congress, and he was reappointed as one of five persons to negotiate
the desired treaty with England. His colleagues were to be Benjamin
Franklin, John Jay, Henry Laurens, and Thomas Jefferson. To these
Ave commissioners, or a majority of them, or even one alone in case
of accident, was given the power to make a treaty of peace; and they
were not to be tied up by absolute and peremptory directions, except
as to absolute independencee of the States and integrity of existing
treaties with France. They were directed, however, that in the last
recourse they were to take the advice of Vergennes, the French min-
ister of foreign affairs, in their negotiations with the English com-
missioners.
On the English side there was but one plenipotentiary, Richard
Oswald, though later he was reinforced by the presence and advice of
Mr. Strachey, one of the British undersecretaries. Mr. Oswald went to
Paris in the spring of 1782, though he was not fully commissioned,
according to the American Ideas, until September 21.
APPENDIX. 309
Benjamin Franklin had already been establislicd in I'aris some foui*
years as minister plenipotentiary. Oswald and Franlvlin therefore had
many interviews before any of the other commissioners arrived. Jay
arrived on June 2.'id, and Adams cm Oct. 2Hth. Just before the latter's
arrival, Mr. Strachey had come over from London, accompanied by a
clerk of the Plantations otlice, who brou^'ht with him lK>oks, maps and
papers relative to boundaries. Laurens could come only two days
before the conclusion of the discussions, and Jefiferson could not come
at all.
The discussions of the comniissit)ners in regard to the boundary of
the United States have not yet, it seems, been published in detail.
The records of their proceedings, kept by the st'cretary, are said to be
lost. From the diplomatic correspondence of the American com-
missioners, however, so far as it has been publisht'd. thf fdUowing facts
have been derived:
On October 5th, Mr. Jay handed to Oswald tlu' American articles,
which had been drawn up very fully by hiiii.
On the 8th of the same month certain articles were agreed upon be-
tween Frankin, Jay, and Oswald, which were sent to England for the
king's consideration. The tirst one detlned the boundary according
to the description authorized by Congress on Marcii 19, 1779, already
copied here.
When the draft of October 8, returned from England, a second set
was agreed upon, on November 5, by the four commissioners, Mr.
Adams being now present. In this second s(>t the western part of the
boundary was given as running
"To the forty-flfth degree of north latitude, following the said lati-
tude until it strikes the river Mississippi; thence by a line to be drawn
along the middle of the said river Mississippi, until it shall intersect
the northernmost part of the thirty-Hrst degree of latitude north of
the equator," etc.
The very same day Mr. Strachev set out for London with these
amended articles.
The next day John Adams, writing to Mr. Livingston, the Secre-
tary of Foreign affairs, said: "We have at last agreed to boundaries
with the greatest moderation. We have offered them the choice of a
iilO THK MISSISSIIMM KIVKIt AND ITS SOUKCE.
line through the middle of all the great lakes, or the line of forty-
five degrees of latitude, the Mississippi, with a free navigation of
it at one end, and the river St. Croix at the other."'
Mr. Strachoy reached London on the 10th of the month, and receiv-
ing his new instructions on the 21st, was back in Paris again by the
24th.
On the 2.")th, Adams, Franklin and Jay, met at Mr. Oswald's
lodgings, "and after some conference Mr. Oswald delivered to them
the following articles as fresh proposals of the British ministry, sent
by Mr. Strachey." In these articles the second one defined l)oundaries
for the United States, and the words there used wore precisely the
same as those employed in the Provisional Articles of Peace, signed
only five days later, on November 30. So far as concerned the north-
western boundary of the United States the said words ran as follows:
"Through Lake Superior and northward of the isles Royal and Pheli-
peaux, to the Long Lake: thence through the middle of said Long
Lake, and the water communication between it and the Lake of the
Woods, to the said Lake of the Woods; thence through the said lake
to the most northwestern point thereof, and from thence on a due
west course to the river Mississippi; thence by a line to be drawn along
the middle of the said river Mississippi until it shall intersect the
northernmost part of the thirty-first degree of north latitude."
In addition, the navigation of the river Mississippi, from its source
to the ocean, was to remain forever free and open to the subjects of
Great Britan, and the citizens of the United States.
An entry in Mr. Adams' journal, of the HOth, stated that the com-
missioners were told that the British government did not oppose the
the boundary, they only thought it too extended, too vast a country ;
but that they would not make a difticulty.i
1 The French iind Spanisli sovcrnnients, liowevcr, thoujrli tlie first was an ally,
and tlie second friondly to the cause of the 1,'nitod States, were, in their iiearts, not
so easily reconciled. They had desired to see tiie new nation restricted to the east
of the Allegliany mountains, south of Pennsylvaniu, and to tlie east of the Chat-
tahoochee river fartiier south. Wlien the territ(.)rial pretensions of tlie American
plenipotentiaries were fully understood the French statesmen were astounded.
Verj^ennes, (writing on October 14.) even styled them "a delirium." and secretly
repudinted the ide;i of the Tnited Stateslieinsr allowed to nionopoli/e the continetit.
AI'PENDIX. 811
Kranklin. on December 5th, w riling lo Mr. Livingston, said tliat
much of the summer was taken up V)y wranylinjf about powers. '".M-
ter sonn! weeks, an under-secn'tary, Mr. Strachey, arrived, with whom
w(! had much contestation about thi- boundaries and other articles
which he proposed and we settled; some of which he carried to Lon-
don, and returned with other propositions, some adopted, others omit-
ted or altered, and new ones added. * * * * They wanted to brinm'
their boundary down to the Ohio, and to settle their loyalists in the
Illinois country. We did not choose such neij^hbors."
The four American commissioners in their joint letter to Mr. Liv-
ingston of Decemlier 14th, said that: "The court of Great iiritain in-
sisted on retaining all the territories comprehended within the Pro-
vince of Quebec by the act of Parliament respecting it 1 * * * *
and they claimed not only all the lands in the western country and on
the Mississippi, which were not expressly included in our charters and
governments, but also all such lands within them as remained nn-
granted l)y the King of Great Uritain. " lie said that it would be use--
less to enumerate all the discussions and arguments they had cm the
subject.
In reply March 25th, 1783, Mr. Livingston said: ''The iMiuiularies
are as extensive as we have a right to expect."
Adams, Franklin, and Jay remained in Paris after signing the Pro-
visional Articles, as commissioners for making a Definitive Treaty.
Though ten months were spent in discussion by the plenipotentiaries
of both powers, nothing further could be decided upon. Therefore,
on September 3d, 1783, they signed the Definitive Treaty of Peace:
which instrument was in exactly the same words as those used in tlie
Provisional Articles that preceded it, boundary description and all.
The description of the northwestern boundary line looked at in the
light of the geographical information the commissioners were guided
by was clear enough, but as tested later by natural facts it was found
insufficient; and even in part, where it regarded the extreme western
1 This act was passed In 1774— most probably to annoy the clisatTected Yankees.
Its southern boundary was the Ohio river, and its western was formed liy tiie Miss-
issippi, from tlie moiitli of the Ohio, runninj; northward to the southern boundary
of the territory granted to the Hudson's Bay Company.
812 'rill': mississiim'; ki\ku and ns souiu'K.
liiiiitatidii lit territory, a physicul itnpossihility. Still, soim- sixty
yoars elapsed before the final detlnilion (if this boundary was framed.
? :J. TiIK (iKOOKArillCAI. KICKORS ok TirK TKKATIKS OK 18"2-."i.
hefore detining tli*- rxact nature nl the geographical err(»r just refer-
red to, and telling of the successive steps wliich were taken toward its
rectitlcation, a few cautittnary words concerning the pctlitical niorali-
tiea <»f the subject are in (»rder.
The reader should dismiss from his mind any idea of injustice in the
case. He must consider that international treaties are only bargains
on a large scale, in which one or other of the high contractintr parties
is liable to be over-reached, and that sometimes the decisions made are
not in accordance with reason and abstract justice; but yet, that the
compacts having been signed tht' matter is settled. When, however,
questions of territorial boundaries have l»een discussed with a view to
international agreement, faulty di'cisions in such cases are by no
means always lo be attributed to great astuteness on one side, and
simplicity on the other: for a laclc of previous correct geographical in-
formaLion, from which had resulted erroneous anil misleading maps,
is the most likely cause. After all. boundary agreements can scarcely
be anything but compromises, and if it should appear later on that
the decision was somewhat unfair to one party yet it would not Ite con-
siden.'d dignified for the other to then clamor for reconsideration.'
1 A curiDus iustaiice of ;i ^riviit natiim (iiiictly abiiiHldiiiii;; patt of its hoiiruiaiv
lino as estalilisliod l)y treaty, and ailoptiii-: anutlici' oiu' wliicli liad l)ceri located er-
i-oneoiisly as tlio true one. issliown in tlie beliavioi' of (iicat Itritain towards tfie
I'nited States in the matter of tlic iiortluTii boundary of New ^'orl< and Vermont,
where it is constituted l)y tlie forty-tifth parallel of nortli latitude. Tliis line,
rimnini; from tlie St. Lawrence to tlie Connect icut river, was surveyed and tuarked
some years before 1T70. but nut correctly. Many years later, in ifrnoramv of this
fact, the United States frovernment be^an to fortify Rouse's Point on Lalie Chaniii-
lain. In l!*l^<, the surveys of tlie boiitidary commi.ssioiiers proved tli.-it the fortific.-i-
tions were on British 'ground. The map of tlie survey l)y Col. .T. D. Graham, of tlie U.
S.EnRineers, pulilislied in 1843, sliows theestablislied line at that point to l)e4.:!2B feet
north of tlie true boundary. Tlie first surveyors liad intended to ijur.'ue a due east
course from tliejiroper intersection of the said jiarallel with the St. Lawrenj'e
river, but. dellecting to the left soniewliat. and Iceepinjr to the left more or less all
the way. they struck the Connecticut river three tiuarters of a mile to the nortl',-
ward of whore they should have reached it. However, the Kritisli trovernment ac-
cepted this old established line, and the boundary in tlie treaty of 1842 was descril)-
ed so as to conform to it.
AI'I'HN'DIX. 3i:{
As a matter of coursf, in Ihf si'ttU'tuciit ol houndarifs l)etwi'<'n
nations, thf statesmen (IfU'KaU'd lo (lu the wnrl< requin' maps of the
re^rions c-(»n('t'rne(l, all they can j;tt atul the licst they can ^ret : for they
eannot ^'o out and view llif country lil<e road conuuissioners. That
the pleni|)otentiaries (»f 1782 in charge of tht- matter of decidiii^f upon
a line of demarcation between the possessions of the British Crown,
and thost." of the I'nited States had all the maps they needed, print«'d
at least, seems to be established by their own testimony.
•John Adams, writing; in October, 1774, .said "We bad before us,
througli tlif whole ne^rotiations. a variety of maps, but it was Mitch-
ell's map up<jn whidi was marked out the whole of the boundary lines
of the United States."' l'>enjamin Franklin, likewise, in a letter to
.letlerson, of April 8, I79(), thus expres.sed himself: '•] c-an assure you
that I am perfectly clear in the remembrance that the map we u.sed in
tracing the boundary, was brought to the treaty by theCommi.ssioners
from England, and that it was the same as that published by Mitchell
twenty years before. ""
These maps which the plenipotentiaries bad liefore them were no
doubt more particularly needed for the settlement of the lini' in tlie
east, where for generations the French and English had been directly
opposed. As for the extreme western part of the i)oundary, the chances
are that but little criticism of a geographical kind was exercised in
regard to it, or comparison of maps made; for if there had been the
inferiority of their adopted map to the maps of the PYench geogra-
l)hers, and to such English maps as were founded on the French ones,
in regard to the hydrograpliy of the country beyond Lake Superior,
would have been at once perceived.
Now this "Mitch»'ll map," which had been otiicially accepted by the
commissioners, and on which they marked the boundary, was compiled
in England by John Mitch'^11, at the request of the Lord Commission-
ers of Trade and Plantations. It bore their approval of date February
la, 1755, and was published in that year, two editions of it it is said.
The significance of it, as respects the topic under discussion, is this
—it contained two very grave geographical errors.
The first one was, that the Lake of the Woods, instead of being
represented as the lowest of a chain of lakes and connecting streams
yi4 THK MISSISSIIMM UiVKU ANIJ ITS SOUltCK. •
whose waters ran norlhwcstwarfl, was shown as h«'in>( Iht.' head of
such a chain whosr \vat»'rs ran to th«! eastward. t<> Lonu Lako and
Lake Superior.
In other words the map ignored the dividing rid^e or luniteHr dcs ten-cn
that sepanif s the waters running to llu? Lake of the Woods, from
those that run a much shorter distance int»» Pijreon river, (the Lon»r
Lake of the treaty) and Lake Superior.
The result of this llrst error was that this len^jthy "water coinrauni-
cation"' of the map was assumed t(, be the head of the St. Lawrence
system of waters, and so was followed for the boundary; whereas the
true head-waters of this great river are those that find their way into
Lake Superior, through the channel of the smaller river of the /on*?
flu lac of the map, our present St Louis river.
The second error was the placing of the sources of tlie Mississippi
Ronae three? degrees northward of their true latitude. The head of the
river was not actually shown on the Mitchell map, for the southern
l)order of a corner map hindered further delineation of it, but was
mentioned on the main map in these words, viz:
"The head of the Miesissippi in not yet known. It is supposed to
arise about the fiftieth degree of latitude and western bounds of this
map." The result of this second error was, that in making the bound-
ary run due west from the Lake of the Woods to the Mississippi river
the plenipotentiaries of 1782 unwittingly called for a geometrical im-
possibility.
In some palliation of the errors of this map, in the matter of the
Mississippi, and by way of excuse for the commissioners in being
guided by it in their definition of the northwestern boundary, another
official British map may be mentioned. This was an elaborate atlas
of the Americas, in twenty sheets, compiled by Mr. Popple, under the
auspices of the same Lords as Mitchell's, and published in 1732 or 1733.
On the proper sheet of this Popple map was indicated "The head of
the Mississippi, in about the fiftieth degree of north latitude, and in
a very boggy country. '"i
1 Popple probably U)ok his ii formation for this part of the country from the
i^arlier maps of I)e I'lsle, the 1 n-nch geographer, on which the sources are laid
»lown as far uorth as 50''. or even beyond; and Indicated as being in a very "boggy
country" too. pays mnrramenr.
AI'PKNDIX. 315
Very Hkely th»' commiHKiotit'rs huvitiK I'oiind lh»'ir map satisfact<»rv
a« regarded the eastern ('(tiintry never dn-anied of its cnfirnious mis-
apprehensions of the ^fco^frapliy of the n-^ion Iwyttntl Lalce Suiwrior.
'i '). TlIK rNKXKClJTKl) AUI K'l.K Ol THE TltKATY OK 1794.
The plenip(»tentiaries ( f 178;} had l)ef(»re them other inn-stions iliaii
those settled in 1782, but, as before intimated, they were not aide to
agree upon any of thetn, and so left them for future nc>;i,» iation. He-
sides thest> unsettlt'd matters new ones had come up since the signing
of the peace, arising from the failure of the contracting parties to re-
spectively carry out certain stipulations of the treaty. \'ery naturally,
therefore, in a few years steps were taken to reoi)en negotiations.
In 1791 the attention of the British government vas called to the
fact that their garrisons had not yet been withdrawn from the north-
ern parts as reouired by the 7th article of this definitive treaty. The
ready reply was: thai it was in conse<iuence of the non-compliance of
the American government with the agreements contained in the 4th,
5th and fith articles of the same instrument. 2'm '/mck/^c
The next move was taken nearly three years later. On April Ittth,
1794, President Washington commissioned John Jay— the hardest
worker of the plenipotentiaries of 1782, now chief justice-as envoy ex-
traordinary to proceed to London and enter into consultation with the
British government, with a view to an amicai)le adjustment of the
differences betwecii the two countries.
Among the questions discussed l)y him and Lord Grenville, the
British minister, was that of the northwestern Ixtundary. The latter
gentleman, giving voice to a suspicion that had been forming itself in
the public mind, considfuc^d it to be an establislied fact that a due
west linti from the Lake of the Woods to the Mississippi river would
pass entirely to the north of any of the sources of that stream. i In
accordance with this supposition he suggested to the American envoy
two new lines between the waters of Lake Superior and the Mississ-
IMost probably, after the treaty of 1TK{ was sinned, there hail been some examin-
ation in British irovernnientofflces of otiier maps tlian tlie Mitcliell one. Not to
mention tliose of France, tliey wcuUI find tliat tlie majis in t lie .Tefferys atlas of 1776.
and those of 1T78 In Capt. Carver's boolv of travels, ^ave no eountenaneo to the the-
ory that the Mississippi headed in a higher latitude than that in which lay the
Lake of the Woods.
310 THE MISSISSIPPI KIVEK AND ITS SOUKCE.
ippi, either of which would rectify the gooi^niphical error of 1782-."}.
The first was, a line drawn due west from "the l)Ottom of West Bav-
in the said Lake" t(» the "river of the Red Lake, or eastern branch of
the Mississippi, and down the said brancli to the main river of the
Mississippi. '■' The other plan was, to follow the "water communica-
tion" descril)ed in the treaties until a point due north of the mouth of
the St. Croix river should be reached, whence a line should be run di-
rect to tlie Mississippi at the mouth of its said tributary. Mr. Jay
would not listen at all to such proposals, which involved a cession or
territory. Nor was he willing,' to concede to his lordship that the po-
sition of the head of the Mississippi in relation to the Lake of the
Woods was certainly known. He sugj^ested, however, that the truth
should be ascertained by actual survey, and to this proposition the
British minister agieed.
On the 19th of November, these two ^^entlemeii signed a treaty on
behalf of their respective governments. The fourth article of it is the
only one necessary to recite here — it was as follows:
"Article IV. Whereas, it is uncertain whether the river Mississippi
extends so far to the northward as to be intersected l)y a line to be
drawn due west from the Lake of the Woods, in the manner mentioned
in the treaty of peace ])etween his majesty and the United States: it
is agreed, that measuresshall be taken in concert Ix'tween his majesty's
government in America and the government of the United States, for
making a joint survey of tlae said river from one degree of latitude
l)eIow the Falls of St. Anthony, to the principal source or sources of
the said river, and also of the parts adjacijnt then'to; and that if on
the result of such survey. It should appear that the said river would
not be intersected l)ysuch a line as is above mentioned, the two parties
will thereupon pntceed by amicable negotiation, to regulate the boun-
dary line in that (juarter."
However much geographers of the time — and some, even, of the
present day— may have regretted it, no survey of the kind was ever
made by the governments interested. It was, not very long after,
found to be unnecessary, so far as the question of the relative latitudes
of the lake and tlie riv;>r were concerned; for the visit of the astrono-
mer David Thompson, in 1798, to the most northern sources of the
1 Tills would liavc been ;iii ;is iiiipossiblo a lino ;is the o!ie they wore trying 1o find
a substitute for.
APPENDIX. 317
Mississippi at Turtle lalce, proved tlmt they lay nearly two degrci's
south of the northern end of the Lake of the Woods.
It may therefore not be deemed unreasonable to suppose that the
project for the survey required by the treaty of 1794 was abandoned,
as a useless expenditure of time and money, in view of the reliable
f)bservations made by Mr. Thompson. The results of his survey, so
far as they pertained to this ([uestion, were published a few years later
by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and seem to have been accepted by all
interested in the discussions concerning the northwestern boundary.
i ."). The unuatikikd convention ok iso:?.
Though the official survey of the upper Mississippi rivtT was ni'ver
undertaken yet the clause of the preceding treaty, reciuiring the two
parties to "proceed by amicable negotiation to regulate the boundary
line in that quarter," was not neglected.
Mr. Madison, Secretary of State, on the 8th day of June, 1802, wrote
to Rufus King, minister at London, commissioning him to adjust what
remained unsettled as to the boundaries between Great Britain and
the United States. In his communication he recited how that the
second article of the treaty of 1783 was rendered nugatory by reason
of the impossibility of running a line due west from the Lake of the
Woods to the Mississippi, and suggested another one in lieu, which was:
"A line running from that source of the Mississippi which is nearest
to the Lake of the Woods, and striking it westwardly on a tangent,
and from the point touched along the water-mark of the lake to its
most northwestern point at which it will meet the line running
through the lake. The map in McKenzie's late publication is piossibly
the best to which I can refer you on this subject. "i
At the time of the arrival of this letter Mr. King was absent from
London, and the charge (V afi'ains, Christopher Gore, acted in his
stead, and was afterwards commissioned from Washington to carry on
the negotiations. On Sept. 28 Mr. Gore had an interview with Lord
1 "VoyiiRe from Montreal, on the river St. Lawrunce, through the continent of
North Aniericii tothe Frozen and PjK'itie Oceans, in tlie years 1780 and 17£3. With a
preliminary a<"o()unt of the rise, progress and present state of the fur trade of f liat
country." London. 1801.
318 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
«
llawkesbury, the British luinisttT, in n'^arrl to the business intrusted
t(j hiiu, and (.'ominj^f to the boundary from the Lake of the Woods to
the Mississippi, pntposed the lini; su)^fgested by Mr. Madison. He also
ujentioned the propriety of appointing,"- commissioners "to ascertain
the local relation of the Mississippi to the Luke of the Woods, and, if
as was supjjosed by the treaty of peace, to run the lin(> there agreed on."
Mr. Gore, on October '>, 1802, reported to the Secretary of State his
interview with Lord Hawkesbury. In this letter, referring to his
l(»rdship's views, he wrote as follows: "On that part of the boundary
which is to connect the northwest point of the Lake of the Woods
with the Mississippi, he observed that it was evidently the intention
of the treaty of peace that both nations should have access to and
enjoy the free use of that river; and he doubtless meant that their
access should be to each nation through their own territories." Lord
11 also agreed that such a commission as Mr. Gore had prop(»sed, and
running the line between these two waters as Mr. Madison had pro-
posed, might establish such a boundary as would secure to each nation
this object. To this Mr. Gore made no reply other than by observing
that the line suggested was naturally what seemed to be demanded by
just interpretation, when such a mistake had happened as was herein
supposed.
On Decemi)er 16 Madison wrote to King that he judged from Mr.
({ore's communication that the proposition made for the adjustment
of the boundary in the northwest corner of the United States was not
pleasing to the British government. The provision, however, was
considered by the President as a liberal one, inasmuch as the more
obvious remedy for the error of the treaty could have been by aline
running due north from the most northern source of the Mississippi,
and intersecting the line due west from the Lake of the Woods; and
inasmuch as the branch leading nearest the Lake of the Woods may
not be the longest or most navigable one, and may consequently favor
the wish of the British government to have access to the latter," i
IThls reasoning is not very oiciir. oxccpt on the assumption tliat tlie administra-
1ion at that time took tlie view tliat tiie Britisli possessions reached soiUliward as
far as the head of the Mississippi. If such a view were entertained, however, at
that time, it was, not lonji after, al)andoned for one more favorable to tlie territo-
rial aggrandizement of the United States. A study of the "possibilities" of the
Louisiana cession probably sufrgested t!ie cliani-'c.
APPENDIX. 319
Mr. Martison furthor wrote that as the settlement of that particular
boundary would not U)T sonie time be material it would be better to
postpone it for the present and attend to the other questions of boun-
dary; and in the meantime further information with respect to the
head-waters of the Mississippi, and the country around them, might
be sought l)y ijoth parties. But that the United States were to be as
free to be guided ])y the results of such incjuiries as if they had never
made the proposition referred to. If most agreeable to the British
government to institute an early survey, the President authorized Mr.
Xing to concur in such an agreement.
However, the British government was not ol)stinate, and the con-
vention was drawn up l)y Mr. King on the 11th of April, and signed
on the 12th of May, 180:5.
Mr. King, when transmitting the document the next day to Mr.
Madison, wrote as follows :
"The convention does not vary in anything material from the tenor
of my instructions. * * * The source of the Mississippi nearest
to the Lakt! of the Woods, according to Maclcenzie's report, will be
found about twenty-nine miles to the westward of any part of that
lake, which is represented to be nearly circular. Hence a direct line
between the northwesiernmost part ftf the lake, and tne nearest source
of the Mississippi, which is preferred by this government, has appeared
to me equally advantageous with the lines we had proposed."
But at the time this convention was signed in London, there had
been already signed in Paris an instrument by which western Louisi-
ana, which had just come into the possession of France, was ceded to
the United States: which fact turned out to have a very important
bearing on the King treaty. Buj it happened that the news of this
session did not reach the American minister in the former city until
the 15th of May, so that he and the British nobleman had come to an
agreement on the northwestern boundary question without any refer-
ence to the ownership of the country west of the sources of the Mis-
sissippi.
The convention was laid before the Senate by the Presid»!nt for their
approval on October 24th. The part of this instrument referring to the
320 TIIK Ml SSI SSI I MM lilVEK AS I) ITS SOUKCK.
"b(»iin(l;iry in thf iiorlliwt'st (tr)rner (if ttn' United Statt's" Pfsid as
folldws :
"Art. \'. Wh<!n'as, it is uncertain wlictlicr ilic river Mississippi
extends so far to the nortliwani as to l)e intersected by a line drawn
due west from the Lal<e of the Woods, in the manner mentioned in
the treaty of peace ]»etween Iiis majesty and tlie United Stat>!S, it is
agreed, that instead of the said line, the boundary of tlit; United
States in this quarter shall, and is htsreby declared to be, the shortest
line which can be drawn lietween the northwest point r)f the Lake of
the Woods, and tiie source of the river Mississippi: and for the pur-
pose of ascertaininjf and deterniiriin<r the northwest point of the Lake
of the Woods, and the souice of the river Mississippi that may be
nearest to the said northwest point, as well as for the purpose of run-
inj; and marking? the said boundary line; l)etween the same, three
commissioners, upon the (ii-niand of i-ither government, shall l)e ap-
pointed," eU;.
The c(»mmittee of the Senate to wh(»m it was nsferred, staterl that
they were satisfied that the said treaty was drawn up by Mr. Kinjjr
three weeks before tht* signature of the treaty with the P'rench Re-
public of the .'{Otli of April. "But, not having the means of ascertain-
ing the precise northern limits of Louisiana, as ceded to the United
States,th(M'omnuttee cangivt; no opinion wht'ther the line to be drawn
by virtue of the third [tifth] article of tht; said treaty with Gnsat
I'.ritain, would interfere with the said northern limits of Louisiana
or not."
President Adams, writing to Secretary Madison, on December 16th,
180;{, in reference; to the feeling of the Senate, said that they feared
that the said boundary line might, l)y a possible future constructifin,
be pretended to operate as a limitation to the claims of territory ac-
(juired by the United States in the former of the two instruments,
that concerning the purchase of Louisiana.
After due consideration the Senate on February 9th, 1804, consented
to the ratitlcation of thf! convention, with the exception of the fifth
article. On the ]4th, Secretary Madison wrott; to minist<!r Monroe, de-
siring him to urge the British government to accede to the change
made; and in the sam letter told him the reasons why the fifth ar-
APPENDIX. 321
ticU' was rt'jecU'd—rL'asons lori'shiidowcd hop' in the rcpdri of tlu' coiii-
inittee and ill the letter ()f the president already cited. lie also said
that he thou^^ht that the British ^,'overnnient would make no dirtlculty
in concurring,' with tlie action of tht; Senate for various reasons.
First. It would ]»' unreasonable that any advantajje a(,'ainst the
I'nited St at<'S should he constructtively authorized by the posteriority
of the dates in (iuestion,etc. StH'ond: That if Ihearticle were expunged
the northern boundary of Louisiana would remain tlie >ame in the
hands of the I'nited States as it was in the hands of France, t(» l>e ad-
justed and estal)lished accordintj to the principles and authority which
would in that case have been applicable. "Thirdly. There is reason to
believe that the; iKtundary between Louisiana and tht; British territo-
ries north of it were actually llxed by commissioners appointed under
the treaty of L'trecht, and thatth(!l)ouudary was to run from the Lake
of the Woods westvardly in latitude 49*^: in wliich case the llftli article
would be nuK'Utory, as the line from the Lake of the Woods to the
nearest source of the Mississippi, would run tliroUKh territory whicli
on l)oth sides of the line would belong to the I'nited States.'' * * *
'•Fourthly. Fiayin^' aside, however, all objections to the tlfth article,
the proper extension of a dividing line in that (luarter will b»; ('(luaily
open for friendly ne(^(»tiation after, as, without agre-'ing to the other
parts of the convention, and considering Uw remoteness of the time at
which such a line will become actually necessary, the postponement
of it is of little or no conse(iuen(;e. Th<! truth is, that the British gov-
ernment seemed at one time to favor this delay, and the instructions
as given by the Uniled States readily -icciuit'sced in it.""
The above letterof Mr. Madison seems to be the tirst otlicial utterance
on the part of the American government that the parallel of latitude 49"
should be claimed by the United States as the northern boundary of
Louisiana and .southern boundary of the English pos.sessions west of
the Lake of tlie Woods. IJut in what was written about the action of
the commissioners under the treaty of Utrecht, of 1713, th(> cabinet
erred; and the Englisti ministry seem to have been no wi.st;r. 'I'he
line of 49* was merely the latest and most southern of various lines
proposed from time to time by the Hudson's Bay Company for their
-21
322 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
southern limits during the period of the French occupancy of Canada,
and had no reference whatever to the boundary of Louisiana, nor restor-
ed the territorial rights of the British crown in the northwest. The com-
missioners under the said treaty met in Paris in 1719, but never came to
any agreement on the subject, though in after years it was popularly
supposed that they had, and so recorded in many books and maps.
The American senators seem to have been justifiably suspicious in
this matter. Were a direct line adopted between the two waters there
would be danger, whenever negotiations should be instituted for a con-
tinuation of the boundary line westward, that it might occur to the
British government to claim the heights of land just beyond the Miss-
issippi as the southern limit of their possessions in tliat region. The
cabinet also showed great shrewdness in now next bringing into dip-
lomacy this old provisional Hudson's Bay Company line of 49", as if it
had really been an international boundary; though, more lilcely, it
might have been only an honest ignorance on their part, but one that
resulted fortunately for their people.
Although the settlement of the northwestern boundary by the Con-
vention of 1803 had failed for the time, the matter was not neglected
by Mr. Monroe in London. There were other burning questions, too,
such as impressments of American seamen, fishery privile^^es &c. to at-
tend to. In reference to these latter, on April 7, 1804, Monroe presented
to Lord Hawkesbury the project of a convention with a view to their
settlement, but a change ol ministry occurred not long after, and the
latter statesman was replaced by Lord Harrowby.
As soon as circumstances would allow him, Mr. Monroe drew the
new minister's attention to the unratified treaty of 1803, and bviefly
discussed with him the reason of its failure. But Lord Harrowby
would not act upon the subject for the time being. On Sept. 1 Mr.
Monroe again had an interview with his lordship in which the boun-
dary question was further discussed. In a few days, that there might
be no misunderstanding as to what thej' had talked about,Monroe drew
up a paper which succintly stated the history of boundary relations in
the northwestern region from the time of the treaty of Utrecht The
paper was of date Sept. 5, and was that day delivered to Lord Harrowby.
APPENDIX. 323
In it the writer maintained tlie position first advanced l)y Mr. Mad-
ison, tiiat the commissioners under the treaty of Utrecht had fixed the
line between the British possessions and Louisiana as being on the
49th parallel of north latitude. lie also wrote, that after it was found
out that the Mississippi river did not head as far to the north as had
been supposed, Great Britain showetl a desire to have the boundary of
the UniU.'d States modified so as to strike the river; but that neither
party contemplated this as doing more than to simply define the
American boundary: nor as conveying to (Ireat Britain any right to
the territory lying westward of that line which belonged to Spain.
There is, apparently, nothing to show that Lord Harro\vl)y I'ver
gave any opinion on the matter after the receipt of this paper. Nor,
indeed, from that time till P'ebruary 2'), 1800, do the printed docu-
ments of the United States have anything to say about the north-
western boundary in general, or the lapsed convention of 1803 in par-
ticular. On the said date Mr. Monroe wrote to the English minister,
Mr. Fox, in reference to certain unsettled topics, amcjng others the
boundary, and spoke of the convention between Lord Ilawkes' iry and
Mr. King. On May 15 Secretary Madison wrote to Monroe teinug him
about the appointment of Mr. Pinkney as joint commissioner with him
to negotiate a treaty. "As the joint commission does not include the
subject of the convention of limits not yet acceded to by Great Brit-
ain, as varit y the Senate here, it will remain with you alone, or
your successor, to continue the endeavors to bring that business to
a conclusion." If any repugnance should be shown to the erasure pro-
posed by the Senate, thereby leaving unsettledfor the present the boun-
daries in the northwest quarter of the Union, and preference should be
given to a proviso against any constructive effect of the Louisiana
convention or the intention of the parties at the signature of the de-
pending convention, 'he might concur in the alteration with a view
to bring the subject in that form before the ratifying authority of the
United States.
But as nothing further appears printed, showing any action of the
British government on the matter, it may be concluded that the con-
vention of 1803 came to be considered as laid on the shelf forever.
324 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEIl AND ITS SOURCE.
'i 6. The ahandoned treaty of 1807.
In May, 1806, the Amorican government appointed Monroe and
Pinkney special commissioners, to meet like appointees of the British
government in London, and take measures towards the framing f)f a
treaty : rendered very necessary now by reason of the many unsettled
questions between the two governments. Their instructions however
did not include the unsettled boundary question, which, with some
other matters, was to be postponed for the time being. Lords Holland
and Auckland acted for the British government in the negotiations.
The treaty agreed upon by the plenipotentiaries was signed on Decem-
ber 31st, and bore the title of "Treaty of amity, commerce and naviga-
tion."' For lack of an article relating to impressments the President
did not send it to the Senate, and so it perished. But the conclusion
of this treaty left the American envoys free to turn their attention to
a supplementary one, in which one of the subjects to be handled would
be that of boundaries.
In their joint letter to Mr. Madison, of April 25, 1807, the American
commissioners infcirmed him how that, in compliance with the pro-
posal of the British commissioners, considerable progress had been
made in digesting the plan of a supplemental convention relative to
boundary and other matters, when their business was brought to a
stop )y reason of an entire change of the ministry. They wrote:
"After many intermissions and much discussion, the British commis-
sioners at length presented to us their project, of which a copy is now
transmitted, differing in many essential particulars from that which
had been originally offered on our part.''
A certain prolixity may now be pardoned, in treating the matter
here, seeing that the conclusions arrived at by the respective sides to
this discussion were not all in vain, but served as a basis of negotia-
tions in future years. The project referred to as brought forward by
the British commissioners was headed "Additional explanatory arti-
cles to be added to the treaty signed December 31st, 1806." Of these
articles the fifth one treated of the unsettled northwestern boundary,
and read thus:
"Art. 5. It is agreed that a line drawn due west from the Lake of
the Woods, along the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude shall be
APPENDIX. 325
the line of demarcation [division line] hotwecn his majesty's territories
and those of the United States to the westward of said lake, as far as
the territories of the United States extend in that (luarttr; and that
the said line shall, to that extent, [111 form tlie southern houndary of
his majesty's said territories and the northern boundary of the said
territories of the United States; provided that nothing in the present
article shall be construed to extend to the northwest coast of America,
or to the territories b('int?intJ to, or claimed by, either party, on the
continent of America, to the westward of the Stony Mountains."
The joint letter already quoted, now goes into a discussion of the
above article, thus: "To the fifth article, regulating our boundary in
the northwest, which has encountered much jealous opposition here,
even in the form suggested by the British commissioners, from the
prejudices, supposed interests, and mistalcen views of many persons,
an explanation of some of which will be found in an idle paper written
by Lord Selicirk, (of which a copy is enclosed, i) we ilnally objected,
that the division line between our respective territories in that quarter
ought to be drawn from the most northwestern part of the Lake of
the Woods due north or south until it shall intersect the parallel of
forty-nine degrees, and from the point of such intersection due west
along and with that parallel. This was agreed to by the British com-
missioners."
The terms defining the extension of the west line, viz: "As far as the
territories of the United States extend in that quarter," were also ob-
jected to by the American commissioners. They considered that the
provision would perhaps do no more than estai lish "the commence-
ment of the line, and might, of course, leave it open to Great Britain
to found a claim hereafter to any part of the tract of country to the
westward of that commencement, upon the motions of occupancy or
conquest, which you will find stated by Lord Selkirk in the paper
above mentioned, or upon some future purchase from Spain, as inti-
mated by others." So they suggested the omitting the words in ques-
tion altogether, as being unnecessary in the light of the concluding
proviso. This was not agreed to, but it was said there would be no ob-
jection to give to this part of the description a character of recipro-
city, so as to make it read "as far as their said respective territories
extend in that quarter."
1. Not printed in the American State Papers however.
n2fi THE MISSISSIPPI KIVER AND ITS ROURCK.
Then coining to thf tiili iirticic— that pcrtaininjr to the navigation
of tho Mississippi— the conimissionors, in the sanif coniniunication,
further wrote: That the project of the liritish (•(tnnnissioners contenj-
plated what had not been in their plan, a permanent c(»ncession of
access through American territories in the northwestern <iuart<T to the
river Mississijjpi, as secured to them ]>y tlie treaties of lTs;{ anfl ITiti,
and the lil<e access to the rivers falling into the Mississippi from the
westward, and a ri^'ht to the navigation of the said river. Ikit this
amounted simply to a ri(,'ht of passaj^e, and was claimed not only as an
equivalent for sucli permanent adjustment of boundary as was here
thought, or atTected to be tliouj:ht, highly advantageotis to the I'nited
States and injurious to Great lirilain, but (as n'^arded access to the
Mississippi) upon tiie idea, among otliers, that the treaty of peace,
which secured to Great Britain free navigation of that river, appeared
to have looked to it, in cummon with that of 1763, as overreaching "our
northern limit,"' and conse<iuently as being accessible to the Hritish in
the territory of Hudson Bay. It was proViable, they thought, that this
demand, so far as respected the waters falling into the Mi>sissippi,
from the westward, would not be persisted in, if no other dilliculty
should present itself.
After the action above detailed the fifth article ran thus:
"Article 5. As proposed by the American commissioners.
It is agreed that a line drawn due north or south (as the case may
require) from the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods
until it shall intersect the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, and
from the point of such intersection due west, along and with the said
parallel, shall be the dividing line [||] to the westward of the said lake:
and that the said line, to and along and with the said parallel, shall"
—the remainder is the same as that which the British form gives, from
its sixty-ninth word, indicated thus [1|J for present reference.
Tlie "proposed American changes" having been submitted to the
British commissioners, the article now appeared in the following
shape:
"Akticle 5. As the British commissioners would agree to make it.
It is agreed that a line," &c., (being the same as the American ver-
sion down to word "line" indicated above their [H], after which it read)
APPfciNDIX. 827
"between his majesty's territories and those of the United States to
the westward of the said hike, as far as their said respective territo-
ries extend in that (luarter; and that the said line shall, to that ex-
tent" iScc. The reniaindiT nctw follows the iJritlsh and American v<'r-
sions from the si^fii |1J1 here used to tlie end.
Secretary Madison, writl^^f to tiie commissioners Monroe and IMnk-
ney, under date of July .'W, 1H07, explained the terms In which the Pres-
ident authorized them to close and sijjn the Instrunn'nt. As to the
rnodlflcatlon of the llfth article, (which the British commissioners
would have agreed to,) It might Itf admitted in case tht-ir own were
not o])tainal)h'. It was his wish that t he proviso to both drafts sliould
be omitted, as unnecessary and liable to give ofTt-nse to Spai.i.
Nothing further can be added on the subject of these negotiations
of 1807; for, by reason of the change of ministry in England, as before
noted, all further discussion was suspended, and never afterwards re-
sumed by the same plenipotentiaries. Thus it was that they were not
able to sign the convention so nearly complettKl, and tht; (luestidu of
the northwestern boundary was not discussed again in diplomacy for
several years.
'i 7. "The Treaty of (riiENT" ok 1814,
The war of 1812, which occurred In a few years, did not galvanize the
suspended animation of the boundary question into life or movement;
for no lighting between tlie English and Americans took place any
higher up the Mississippi than Prairie du Chien, on the Wisconsin
river, beyond which the former practically controlled the country.
But within a year of the commencement of this war, the Russian
government used its influence to bring about a peace. On April 15,
1813, therefore, Mr. Monroe sent instructions to the American plenipo-
tentiaries at St. Petersburg, on the course they should pursue. Writ-
ing to them again on June 2.'}, he said that if a restitution of territory
should be agreed upon, provision should be made for settling the bound-
ary line between the two powers from the St. Lawrence to the north-
west corner of the Lake of the Woods, on account of the valuable is-
lands in the river and lakes claimed by both parties, and suggested the
appointing of commissioners to adjust the matter. But he was silent
as to the line beyond the Lake of the Woods. On March 22d, 1814, he
828 THE MISSISSIJ'PI KIVEH AND ITS .SOURCE.
wrote to the Amorican plenipotentiarios that they tniist not in any
way otuintt'iianiv a jircti-nsion to territory soutli of the northern l)oun(l-
ary of tlie United .States.
At the reiiuest of the British ministry tht^city (if (Jhent, in Flanders,
was aeleeted as the phu'o of ineetinj;, and there, on the Hth or Amjust,
the joint commission met to deliberate upon a treaty of peace. On tho
part of Great Britan the plenipotentiaries were Lord Gambler, Henry
Goiilhurn and W^illiam Adan.s; on the part of the Tnited .States, .John
Quincy Adams, .Tames A. Hayard. Ili'nry Clay, .Jonathan Russell, and
Albert Gallatin. Tti the matter of tiie lioundary line west of the Lalve
of the Woods, it v as the British commissioners who seemed most anx-
ious to discuss it; for tht; Americans were not instructed on the sub-
ject of this Vioundary. The I'ornier, however, disclaimed any idea of
acquiring,' increast' of territory, in tlieir request for a revision of the
boundary line between the I'nited States and Great Itritian.
Writing to Mr. Madison on August l!»th, l.si4, the American com-
missi(mers gave the views of the other side in this matter, in the fol-
lowing words:
"2d. The l)oundary line west of Lakt; Superior, and thence to the
Mississippi, to be revised; and the treaty right t»f Great Tiritian to the
navigation of tho Mississippi to be continued. Wht>n asked whether
they did not mean th(> line from the Lake of the Woods to the Missis-
sippi? the r.ritish commissioners repeated that they meant the line
from Lake Superior to that river."
On the 24th of the same mcmth, the American commissioners wrote
to the British that they perceived that Great Britain proposed, "with-
out purpose specifically alleged, to draw the boundary line westward,
not from the Lake of the Woods as it now is, but from Lake .Superior;"'
and they objected to that intention as demanding a cession of territory.
To this, on Septemljer 4th, the British commissioners replied as fol-
lows:
"As the necessity for fixing some boundary for the northwestern
frontier has been mutually acknowledged, a proposal for a discussion
on that subject cannot be considered as a demand for a cc^ssion of ter-
ritory, unless the United States are prepared to assert that there is no
limit to their territory in that direction, and, that availing themselves
APPKNDIX. J]29
of tht! ^t'li^jniphical crmr u|ioii which that part of the treaty of 178.'{
was foniit'd, they will acknowlt'djff no houtulary whatever; then, un-
questionably, any i roposltion to llx one. he it what it may, must he
considered as demanding' a lar^^e cession of territory fnun the United
States,'' etc. Were the American ^'ovc'rnmentitrepared to assert such
unlimited rinht? Or were tlie pliTiipotcntiaries willing to aclxnowl-
♦'(ij(e the boundary from tlie Lalve of tlie Woods to tlie Mississippi
ajfrecd to, liut not ratilled, in 1H().'{? The Hritish plenipotentiaries
would be contented to accept favorably such a proposition, or to dis-
cuss any other line of boundary whicli miKl>t lie sulituitted for con-
sideration.
The American commissioners do not seem to have been offended at
the bluntness of tlieir P.ritisii feihtws; for, on Septeml)er itth, they
said, that in regard to the l)oundary of the nctrthwest frontier, in the
li^'ht of the explanation now K'^<'n» they would have no objection to
discuss the sui)ject, so soon as the proposition concerning an Indian
boundary sliould l)e disposed of.
On the r.»th, the British commissioners intimated that they were
very happy to llnd tliat no miiterial diniculty would lie likely to occur
concerning this (luestioii.
On October 21st, the American commissioners stated, as they had
said on August 24th, that they had no authority to cede any point of
the territory of the United States, and would subscribe no stipulation
to that effect. The same day, the British commissioners wrote that
they were led to expect, from the discussions already had, that the
northwestern boundary from the Lake of the Woods to the Mississippi
(the intended arrangement of 1803) would be admitted without objec-
tion. In their reply of the 21st of October, the Americans made no
reference to this boundary of 1803.
On the 31st the iSritish wrote to the American commissioners that
they were ready to receive specific propositions.
On November 10th the American commissioners wrote to the British
that they could not agree to tix the boundary of the United States in
the northwest corner unless that of Louisiana were also provided for
in the arrangement. They now submitted their entire projet in a spe-
cific form.
330 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
The sixth article of the draft provided for the tlxing and determin-
ing by commissioners (if that part of the boundary which extended
from Lake Huron, to the most northwestern point of the Lake of the
Woods: and for particularizinj? the latitude and longitude of th(; said
point. The British commissioners did not alter the geographical part
of this article at all, when they returned the projet on November 26th.
The eighth article was the same as the fifth one of the still-born
treaty of 1807, in the form agreed to by the British plenipotentiaries of
that time.i But the British plenipotentiaries of the present negotia-
tions now substituted for it the original British article of 1807,2 to
which they added a clause granting British subjects free access to the
Mississippi river, and the enjoyment of its free navigation.
At the meeting of December 1st, the American commissioners pro-
posed various amendments to the British substitute for article eight.
One was to insert after the words "to the westward of the said lake as
far as," the words their rcsjjcctine territories^, instead of the words "the
territories of the United States;" which change was agreed to by the
British commissioners. A second was, to strike out the words "and it
is further agreed," to the end — that stipulation about access to the
Mississippi. This was reserved by the British for the consideration of
tneir government. A third was, to secure both the right to flsh and
the right to the navigation of the Mississippi to the respective parties.
It also suggested tiiat British sul)jocts "should have access from such
place as may be selected for that purpose in His Britannic Majesty's
aforesaid territories, west, and within 300 miles of the Lake of the
Woods, in the aforesaid territories of the United States, to the river
Mississippi, in order to enjoy the benefit of the navigation of that
river," &c. This was left with the British plenipotentiaries for con-
sideration. They also intimated their willingness to omit article
eight altogether, if the British plenipotentiaries thought it best. The
British plenipotentiaries wanted to add to the eightli article, after the
words Stony Mountains, a stipulation agreeing to negotiate the fish-
eries question for the Americans, and the navigation of the Mississ-
ippi for the British. This was received by the American plenipotenti-
aries for consideration.
1 Seo paRo ;Cti KUitra.
2 Soe pa^'o 324 mipra.
APPENDIX. 331
At the meeting of December 10th, the American plenipotentiaries
stated that possibly doubts might arise as to the geographical accu-
racy of tlie words at the beginning of the eighth article — the present
liritish substitute— "a line drawn due west from the Lake of the
Woods along the forty-ninth parallel."' It was agret-d that an alter-
ation should be made to guard against such possible inaccuracy. The
eighth article was further discussed on the 12th of the month.
The American pleniijotentiaries in their note of the 14tli, stated
that they could not agree to the stipulations proposed as a substitute
for the last paragraph of the eighth article. The first alteration in
their prujct respecting the navigation of the Mississippi was unexpec-
ted, seeing that the British neither in lh«'ir note of October 21st, nor
in the lirst conference to which it referred, mentioned the matter.
To obviate, therefore, any ditliculty arising from a presumed connec-
tion between that subject and that of the lioundary proposed by the
eighth article, they now expressed their willingness to omit the article
altogether. To meet the supposed wishes of the liritish government
they had proposed the insertion of an article recognizing the right of
Great Britain to the navigation of that river and that of the United
States to certain fisheries, which the British government considered
as abrogated by the war. To such an article, which they considered
merely declaratory, they had no oiijection, but did not want any new
article, and offered to be silent in regard to both. To this stipulation
or any other abandoning, or implying tlie aljandonment of, any right
in the fisheries claimed by the United States they could not subscribe.
But to an engagement embracing all subjects of difference not yet ad-
justed, implying no aljandonment of right, tliey were ready to agree.
In their communication of December 22d, the British plenipotenti-
aries said that, as they had stated in their note of August 8th, they
did not wish to give fishing privileges without equivalent, however:
"With a view of removing what they consider as the only ol)jection
to the immediate conclusion of the treaty, the undersigned agree to
adopt the propf)sal made by the American plenipotentiaries at the
conference of the first instant, and repeated in their last note, of
omitting the eighth article altogether."
332 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
lioth parties being tlius willing' to postpone the settlement of the
houndary line beyond the Lake of the Woods, th«; treaty was signed on
December 24th; and thus was established a peace between England
and the Unite4 States not since brolcen, though often imperilled.
This treaty, it will be seen, only advanced the boundary question ])y
providing, in the seventh article, that certain conunissioners, who
were to fix the boundary from Lake Huron westward, were to "i)ar-
ticularize the latitude and longitude of the most northwestern point
of the Lake of the Woods, and of such parts of the said boundary as
they may deem proper. And both parties agree to consider such de-
signation and decision as final and conclusive." It was certainly high
time to fix this "point" seeing that none of the statesmen knew where
it was, though they and their pri^lecessors liad had its name so often
in their moutlis and at the points of their pens.
The day after the treaty was signed the American plenipotentiaries
made a full report to the Secretary of State. They said that the ma-
jority of their body were "determined to offer to admit an article con-
firming both rights [that of the Americans to the fisheries, and that
of the English to the navigation of the Mississippi] or to be silent in
the treaty upon both, and leave out altogether the article defining the
boundary from the LaR.e of the Woods westward."
In a quasi controversial paper written nearly eight years later, on
May 3, 1822, John Quincy Adam;--, the first in order of the American
plenipotentiaries concerned, reviewed the proceedings of 1814 some-
what elaborately, so far as they referred to the question of the north-
western frontier. The British government maintained, he said, that
the treaty of 1783 was abrogated by the subsequent war, and yet they
claimed the right to navigate the Mississippi under its provisions.
Being asked for an explanation, they replied that the equivalent they
offered for it was their acceptance of the forty-ninth parallel of lati-
tude for the northwestern boundary, instead of the line to which they
were entitled by the treaty of 1783 to the Mississippi. They had said
the same thing to Monroe and Pinkney in 1807, and the principle had
been assented to by them, with the subsequent sanction of ^'resident
Jefferson. Still, all depended on the continuing validity of the treaty
of 1783; for, if abrogated, the boundary as well as the navigation of
APPENDIX. iiii'il
the Mississippi was null and void. The American commissioners re-
plied to them that though willing to agree to the forty-ninth parallel,
and that they thought it of mutual interest that the line should be
fixed, yet they were not tenacious. But they could not agree to their
articles of mutual surrender, the (Ishe ;es for the right of navigation
of the Mississippi, with a pledge of future negotiation. Hut they
would consent to omit the boundary article itself and leave the whole
subject for future adjustment; to which proposition the British com-
missioners Hnally agreed. By the convention of October 2<tth, 1818,
which gave the United States the boundary of forty-nine degrees from
the Lake of the Woods westward, was proved the total indllTerence of
the British government to the right of navigating the Mississippi, by
abandoning their last claim to it, without asking an equivalent for its
remuneration.
'i 8. The Convention of 1818.
The . ry next summer after the signing of the treaty of Ghent trou-
ble arose concerning the seizure of American fishing vessels, which
together with complaints that American slaves had been carried off in
British ships at the conclusion of the war, showed the necessity of a
speedy adjustment of the questions remaining unsettled between the
two nations.
On September 17th, 1816, the Secretary of State;, Mr. Adams, made
overtures to the British government, on behalf of the United States,
for a supplementary treaty of commerce.
On March 19th, 1817, the British government produced a draft of
four articles towards the initiation of such a treaty.
On November 6th, Mr. Adams forwarded to Richard Rush, the envoy
plenipotentiary at London, full power to conclude a commercial treaty.
On May 21st, 1818, he wrote again to him, informing him that the
President desired him to propose an immediate general negotiation of
a commercial treaty, wiiich was, however, to embrace other subjects of
discussion between the two governments than trade and commerce.
Among these other subjects was indicated "the boundary line from
the Lake of the Woods."
In these negotiations Albert Gallatin v/as to be associated with Mr.
Rush, as joint plenipotentiary, and instructions were furnished him
334 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND ITS SOURCE.
by Mr. Adams on May 21st. In this It^ttcr he was told that the British
government wanted to refer some of the subjects to commissioners,
like those authorized l)y the treaty of Ghent. Among these other sub-
jects Were, '"the lioundary line from the northwest corner of the Lake
of thi! Woods westward, which you will remember was all but agreed
upon, and went otf upon a collateral incident at Ghent. * * *
As to the lint; from the Lake of the Woods, as some dissatisfaction
has already been excited here by the expense occasioned by the two
commissions already employed in settling this boundary, another com-
mission to draw the line through the depths of the deserts, and to an
indefinite exterit, would be still uiDre liable to censure; besides the
apprehensions which it might raise, that the issue of the commission
would be to bring the British territory again in contact with the Mis-
sisssippi."
But on the 2Sth of July a more elaborate paper was addressed by the
Secretary to Messrs. Gallatin and Rush, which embodied the Presi-
dent's instructions to the two commissioners. The third heading was:
"3. Boundary fmm the Lake of the irood.s, westward.'' Under this
title he gave a bi ief statement of the geographical foiceof the treaties
of 1783, 1794, and 1803. "The cession of Louisiana gave them a new
and extensive territory westward of that river." He then proceeded
at length to tell about the doings of the plenipotentiaries and govern-
mental views in 1807 and 1814: and how an agreement was made in the
said last year to omit all reference to the l)oundary line beyond the
Lake of the Woods. Then continuing, he wrote:
'"From the earnestness with which the British government now re-
turn to the object of fixing this boundary, there is reason to believe
that they have some other purpose connected with it, which they do
not avow, but which in their estimation, gives it an importance not
belonging to it, considered in itself. An attempt was at first made by
them, at the negotiation of Ghent, to draw the boundary lint; from
Lake Superior to the Mississippi. But, as they afterwards not only
abandoned that pretension, but gave up even the pretension to an
article renewing their right to the navigation of the Mississippi, it
was to have been expected that they would thenceforth have consid-
ered their westward boundary of no importance to them." He thought
APPENDIX. 33o
that that indicated a design of encroach! n^i by new fstablishmonts
upon the forty-ninth paralU.'l, or that it manifested a ;ealousy of the
United States and a desire to check the progress of their settlements, i
Fredericlf John Robinson and Henry Goulburn were the commission-
ers representing the Dritish govcrnmt'nt, and the place of meeting was
in the city of London. As, however, all the geographi'^al aspects of
the subject— in the light of the scanty Icnowledge olitainable— had
been fully discussed in the former international negotiations, there is
nothing to be found in the protocols of September 17th. October 6th,
*^th and 13th, recjuiring notice here. On the 20th of October, 1818, the
plenipotentiaries had come to an agreement, and the convention was
signed by them that day.
On the same day Messrs Gallatin and Rush forwarded tlieir copy of
the convention to Washington. In their letter accompanying it they
said that the boundary was definitely fixed at the forty-ninth degree
of north latitude, and that an attempt was again made to connect it
with an article securing to the Uritish access to the Mississippi and
the riglit to its navigation; but they would not consent to the article
and the British abandoned it.
The part of this document referring to the northwestern Iwundary
is the following:
"Article 2. It is agreed that a line drawn from the most north-
western point of the Lake of the Woods, along the forty-ninth parallel
of north latitude, or if the said point shall not be in the forty-ninth
parallel of north latitude, then that a line drawn from the said point
due north or south, as the case may be, until the said line shall intersect
the said parallel of north latitude, and from the point of such intersec-
tion, due west, along and with the said parallel, shall be the line of
demarcation between the territories of the United States and those of
His Britannic Majesty, and that the said line shall form the northern
tx)undary of the said territories of the United States, and the south-
, ern boundary of the territories (»f Ills Britannic Majesty, from the
Lake of the Woods to the Stony mountains."
This second article of the convention of 1818, ended a boundary dis-
cussion of thirty years standing, but as a matter of theory and law
only; for the practical settlement and final description of the line of de-
marcation were yet a long way off.
1 See also Mr. Adani&' resumt', of a later date, on page 332 supra.
336
THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEK AND ITS SOUUCE.
.Zines of/Ae he (jht of^ lanci . .
Fal t tical lines fforr ob-sole t^ .."*'.
ITxiStina Stale, h-ounclarte^
I I I t £l>i
DTAORAM CHART OF LIMITARY I.INES DRAWN BY A. J. HILL. 1892.
note: in "n. u. co's. mne of 17th centuky,' kead 18th CENTtRy.
APPENDIX. n;!7
i !». The wouk of the Holtxdaky Commission at the Lake ok the
Woods, ix 182:j.
Peter B. Porter on the part of the American trovernment, and Anth.
lUirclay for the British, were appointed commissioners under the sixth
and seventh articles of the treaty of (rhenl. to survey and mark the
northern boundary of the United States from tin; point where the lini'
of latitude of 45" Intersects the St. Lawrence river to the most nortli-
western point of the Lake of the Woods. On .June 18th, 1822, they
made their decision concernlnfj the line which they had estal)lishe(l
under the sixth article. This done they proceeded to the consideration
of the boundary to be fixed under the seventh article, which was to
commence at the water communication between Lake Huron and
Lake Superior.
But concerning this part of tht.'ir duties they came to no full de-
cision, and no report of their doings is to be found printed: at least,
not among the public papers of the United Stat«'S. What is written
here, then, under the heading of this section, has been compiled from
works of private origin, or from otllcial works not necessarily binding
in their views concerning this particular subject.
The commissioners themselves did not accompany the party destined
f(tr the region west of Lake Superior; and, so far as can be ascertained,
the principal personages who did go were the following:
Colonel Delafleld, the American agent of the coi.,mission: the two
astronomers, (of whom David Thompson was one), and their staff: and
Dr. John J. Bigsby, the secretary of the commission.
Up to this time the "most northwestern point of the Lake of the
Woods" had been only a name, first brought to the notice of tht; world
by the treaties of 1782 and 1783, whose makers, apparently, had no de-
tinlte knowledge of the lake and its surroundings. It was the princi-
pal object of this official surveying party therefore to now seek out
the place so named, and ascertain its true geographical position. That
they had before them •->. work of much delicacy and ditttculty may be
imagined.
There must have been one condition also to militate strongly against
their doing their work here In any very elaborate manner, and that
was the necessity of economy. Those were not millionaire days, either
-S2
338 THE MISSISSIPPI RIVEK AND ITS SOURCE.
in ii privau- or ii puldic souse, and the lew thousands spent in fornicr
years by the coniinissioners under the fourth and llfth articles of the
treaty, on the eastern part of the l)oundary, had been a rock of offense.
In 1817, a coniniittee of the House of Representatives had ^iven it as
their opinion that so complete a survey as had been carried on was not
necessary. They maintained that the running of the line through the
middle of the lal\es and rivers was not intended to be performed liter-
ally, as that would be to cut islands into two parts at times, and to
cross and recross the center of the current instead of following it. To
ascertain where the current ran, they said, required no surveying, un-
less at some special points. In April of 1818, another House commit-
tee reported on the complete trigonometrical survey hitherto employed,
and recommended that some mode of designating the boundary line
under the sixth and seventh articles of the treaty should be arranged
between the British government and the President of the United
States requiring less time and expense. Two or three days later, a se-
lect committee was appointed to inquire into the expenses already in-
curred by the boundary commission.
Now, however correct these economical views were as regarded the
boundary in general they were not suited to the business of ascertain-
ing the terminal point of it. This was not, in the light of the li'tle
geographical knowledge of the lake then possessed by those most .'n-
terested, some particular spot so prominent and well known that it
could be readily found, but it was one that had to be sought out, as
they supposed, from among competing points. To do this satisfactor-
ily would require a thorough survey of the entire western half of the
whole lake with all its bays and inlets.i
It may be imagined then that these gentlemen were limited as to
time and means, and would not therefore be able to make their exam-
ination exhaustive. What they did do at the Lake of the Woods was
to sail along the shores, establishing a few points astronomically and
1 One is apt to wonder how it came that the views of the two American statesmen
yet living, of the plfnipotcntiai'ies of 1782, were not asked for. as to their under-
standing of the oft repeated "point." It is true that they were now quite old,
Adams heing 84, and Jay 81 years, but they still retained their intellectual vigor-
Adams indeed yet ext rci'^ed a public influence through his pen. Perhaps such ap-
plication was made. bV' if so no mention of it is readily found.
APPENDIX. 389
tilling in the topo^'raphy between by method^ nt' reconnoisance. This
^'ave them the material for constructing' a map of the lake.
Dr. Bigsby, writing many years later concerning this expedition, de-
scribes their following along the western shore from the south to the
north. On .Tuly 18th they camped near the mouth of Kiver la Platte,
which came from a very large and shallow lake of the same name.
Arriving at Rat Portage, at the outlet of the lake, they took observa-
tions for its position, and found it to be in latitude 49'^ 4<!' 21" and
longitude 94° 39'. His words now are: '• We left it on the 22d of July,
and made an earnest but vain attempt, on the west of the portage, to
tlnd out any well marked spot entitled to be called, in thf language of
the treaty, ' the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods.'
An idea then prevailed that the locality lay hereabouts; but the de-
cision of 1842 has properly placed it many miles to the S S. W. of Rat
Portage.'' i The doctor elsewhere wrote that the place which they
considered to be the said "point" was "'at the bottom of a narrow,
marshy cul-de-sac, eight miles and a half deep, situated at the north-
ern part of " a bay debouching on the lake.
? 10. Cautogiiapiiv of the Lake of the Woods; what the
Commissioners of 1782 3 understood to be its
MOST NoUTn\VESTERN POINT.
The Lake of the Woods— the southern part of which is crossed by
the line of latitude 49° — comprehends a series of four distinct sheets
of water but so connected that, taken as a whole, they form a verita-
ble labyrinth, by reason of their innumerable islands, peninsulas, and
bays. Only its most northern subdivision was known to the Indians
by the name now applied to its southern part, which term came after
awhile to be applied by the French and English traders to the four
lakes together. It is one of the larger of the innumerable lakes, that,
connected by interlocking streams, go to form the southeastern part of
the basin of the Nelson river of Hudson's Bav.
1 It so lijippoiied that the United States exploring expedition to the Red River of
tlio Nortli, ooninianded by Major S. H. Long, passed tlirougli lliis lake a couple of
weeks after the surveyors of the boundary conxmission had been there. The
yarrativeot the expedition says: "Rat Portage has bucome a poiatof some im-
portance, as it appears probable that the northwesterninost point of the boundary
line of the United States will be at or near Its extremity."
5340
THK MISSISSIPIM UIVER AND ITS SOrUCK
orrUKE MAI- OK THK LAKE OF Tl^.-^OOD.. UKOrCKD KUOM CAXAP.AN
API'KNUIX, 341
The tliin' that it was tlrst visited hy whiti- nion is iitit kiKiwn.
tlioii^'h the Canadian (tfflcials wt-n.' awan- (if its <'xist('iicf as rarly as
1711; and in IT.'M the llrst piist htiilt there was frccted by coniniand nf
tlie elder Verendrye. When, later, tlie cnimtry to the westward of
Lake Superitir came to hi- majipi'd and enis'ravinis's of it published this
lake naturally found a eoiupanion plaet- on the charts: hut, as may In-
supposed, with a shap<! that bore little, if any, resemblance to the out-
line that modern maps hav«' furnished us.
Yet it was from these early maps alone tliat the public men nf the
last <iuarter of the eij,'hteenth century could derive their idea> of its
fontour. oosltion, and hydrojiraphical relationships, i
On maps published prior to the date of the innocently mischievous
Mitchell map this lake presented by no means any very complicated
appearance. F(»ur of such mai)s are now cited, in this connection.
The earliest, or presumed earlii'st, delineation of the Lake of the
Woods to be found on any engraved map, is to be seen on the one illus-
trating Dobbs' ylcco«)j< 0/ f/ic Counfnc^unyouu'/*;/ ti> Utnlson's lid;/, pub-
lished in 1744. Mere it appears as of simple ol)long form, lying east
and west, and having nine islands in it. Two streams are seen at the
west enil of the lake, the northern one being its outlet and (lowing
into Winnipeg Lake. The want of recognizable reseml)lances on this
map, in the case of the Lake of the Woods, wctuld seem to show that
the information might have been obtained from some Indian sketch.
F'our years later than the above work, was published Henry Ellis"
VnywjeU) Hnihon'x 7i«.'/, which contained a general map too. This,
though not ])recisely like the Dobbs niap, mu:-h resembles it, and dis-
plays till' same general hydrography, the waters running westward and
other features; l)ut there is more tlnish and detail to it. Tim lake in
"luestion also lies east and west, and has six islands in it ; but though
its shores are more indented, its repres«'iitati(m bears no greater resem-
blance to the truth than the (lelini'atioti of it on the former ma[».
1 Tiavcrs Twi^s. in tiis r/ic 0(( (/on Qiirstinn Knimhinl. Lotidon, lS4t>. ;it 1 he iihicr
wliuie he speaks of t he iiil fodiirt ion nf mapsof iiiisurvcycd (list rii/ts into dcfiiiilL'
di'^cilptiKli, well s;iys:
•■Tlie pictorial fcatiu'es of a c-oiiiitry whicli. iu such cases, liave l)een freciueiitly
assumed as tlio tjasisof tlie iie^jotiation. liave not unusually caused greater oni-
l):irrassnient to Inth the parties in tlie sub>e(|aent attempt to reconcile them with
the nal 111 al feat n res, than the orivrlnal iiuestion in dispute, to which they were
supposed to have fiiinished a solution "
'M'2 THE MISSISSIIMM UIVKIt AND ITS SorUCE.
On the map of D" Anville, btiarinj; date 1748. the lak«' shows a rouiidi-r
fl^ur*', l)Ut ont' whose saliont points arc reroj^nizahlu as those now
known, the peninsula juttin^r into the hike f-.irn the rijjht, the outlet
at the farther t.'nd, and the inlet, and also th" hay withalllnent streams
to the left of the latter. It errs however In its orientation; lor the
inlet and outlet are placed due east and west of eadi other, as in the
Enj^lish maps, instead of south and north respectively.
T. -lefferys' chart of the Atlantic ocean, 1T.">3, extends far enoujfh to
the west to take in the lake. It shows it as of an elongated form, its
longest diameter also east and west: with two streams entering at the
west end, and witli nine islands, like the Dolihs map, but without any
stream belni^ sh"wn dt all elsewhere, thou^rh two bays appear at th«!
east end. The absence of the eastern stream was probably a draughts-
man's or eni^ineer's error.
French maps of the datt^ I'.V) can hardly be said to b(^ earlier than
Mitchell's. They Ki^'«N however, like the D' Anville map, some true
idea of the lake: thou(jrh the entire outlines need turninj,' around simi-
larly, from forty-five to ninety degrees, in order to make them corre-
spond reasonably with the points of the compass.
The Oentlemau\s Magnzim of July, 1755, contains a map of the pos-
sessions of the English and French in "North America, which looks
very much like a reduced copy of Mitchell's map, but any name of
maker or compiler is carefully omitted from it and from the explana-
tory text accompanying it. On this map the waters of the boundary
chain of lakes not only flow to the eastward, but the Lake of the
Woods shows no stream at ail entering into it at the west end, or else-
where, thus unmistakably proving the map-makers belief to be that
this lake was the head of the hydrographical system he had drawn.
There need be no description given here of the shape of the Lake of
the Woods as represented by Mitchell: for it can speak for itself in tlie
copy now given. i
Of course between 1755 and 1782 there were other delineations of the
lake on published maps, but naturally Mr. Mitchell could not have
1 The diagonal line drawn on this little niup at the west end of the lalie, and sim-
ilar lines marked on tlie modern Canadian map of tlie same, appfarlnjr on pajre 340,
lorni no part of the orifrinal maps. Tiiey are merely interpolated to illustrate
tlie ''euttini;" theory described in the next seotion.
AIM'KNDIX.
34:5
PAKT OF THE MITCnELL MAP (»F 1T55.
344 THE MISSISSIIM'l KIVKK AXD ITS SOI'UCE.
used th«'><' — thouKli tlif coiimiissioiici^ of the lalttT diitc iiiiKhl havf
paid tliciii iiiort- atlfntion which dtlinfationsaiJiJroxiiiiatcd rriore and
lunn- to the truo topography; hut tlicy do not rt'(iuin; any I'urther rcf-
(•rctii'c licrt'.
Wliat thf |ili'nif)MtcMliaiirs a>sunii'd— no! I<ni-\v to l)t' the rnr).st
nortiiw»'stt;ni point of thf iakf rtMiuircs no lrnt,'thy dissertation to
estahlish. They had oidy <pne map hy wiiieh tht-y were ultimately
Kwided, and on that tln-y marked the wlioh' boundary — the northwtjst-
ern e([ually with all the rest.'
On this map they saw a nam»'d iaki', whi'-h they understood to he
the head ot the largest St I'am runtiing ini.> Lake Superior, anci to it
and through it they then I'on- ran thi- line of demarcation. The oh-
vi(jus intention was to run to its farthest point or head, and as the
map showed that to lie to thi- northwest they naturally used that term
in th<'ir description: having n'> misgivings, pn,'sumably, as to tht; accu-
racy of tlie (Irawitig. It is not at all likely that they had much, if
any, discussion ai>out this-, and that th(!y studied brevity of description
is shown l>y ilu-ironly naming the two cxtri'iucs of the chain of lakes
s«jl(!Cted for till' boundary.
i! II. 'I'lir: OlIICIAI, DKSUiNA rioN <>v IIIK most noutiiwksteun
i'OINI' OK TltK LAKK OI IIIK WooUs, ANI> ITS KSTAU-
I.ISIiMKN'l' I!^ TIIK TUKATY <>!• \^42.
Although the dcsignati'd lioundary line ha<l l)een <\xar.iined l)y the
party sent to tht; Lake of th(! Woods as stated, and its Ifjcation indi-
cated on che'ir maps from the outlet of Itainy lake to th<' head of the
1 The re i« iid iu uidiii;; the I'oiicluslnn t li;il every I liitiL' liin:res on the del Inesit inns
nf I liis iiiap. Aihiins iind I'raiiklin. :i> already qiiuled. test ificd to their ii-.(,' of tlii-
iniiji, ;iiid HO did .(ay. Mr. Adams, some twelve year^ after his firsl letter on tin*
•-iihject. wrote in st ill si ronj-'er terms, viz.:
•'.Miti'hell's ina|i was llie r)nly one wliii'h The Minister- I'lenipotent iary of Tlie
I'niled Stales and the Ministers I'leiiipotentiary <>f<;reat liritaln in:ide use of in
1 heir Conference- and Discussions relative to The Hoiindaries of The United i^tate-
in their Ne^ot iat Itms of tlie Peace of ITKdmd of tlie I'rovisloiuil Articles of lhe:ifi|li
• if Novemher, ITk:,'. I'poii that Map, and tliat only, were the Honndaries deline-
ated,"
In addition. It msiy be stated that this tnai) w;is formally recounlzed a> past au-
t linrity hy tlu' trejity of ls^'7. in t lie followiriLr word-: ■AnriehK I v. Tlie map c;illed
Mitchell's map. by which the framers of the treaty of 17s:i are ackuowiedgt'd lu
have te'.'ulated I lie I r joint and fillicjai proceeding's." \c.
AIM'KNDIX. ;i45
liiiy rfilt-rrcd to in tin- loriinT liikt-: yi't it afipfiir-i that the twn i-nu\-
iiiissioners ('((iiid not,af,'n'f tipun the toriuiiial itoitil, of the line.
"The matter, not bcitiK of iniinrfliati' and incssiri^' iniixirtaiicc," I)r.
I'ti^sby writes, "was suifercd to ninaiii in siisnensc It was thou^rht
advisattie by tli<; British tf'vcrnincnt, about 1x41, that Dr. Tiarks
should tuakc a [)orsonal ins])cction of tlie Lake of iIk; Woods, which
h<' accordingly did."
.So astronomer Tiarks decided tlie ca>e against Kat l'orta^;e, and tlii.;
is thn jx'culiarly practical method he employed to come to his conclu-
sion. If a ]in(^ whose Ix-arinji is exactly N. E. and S W. be passi'd
westwardly over the surface of the lake, on i)aper. tliat i)ointon the
main shore which is last cut l)y it will be the most tiorlhwestem point
nvpiired.
With all due respect to the le.irned astronomer wiio invented ibis
plan, and to the eminent statesmen who accepted it— now probal)ly
all dead and gone — a common-senst! man cannot well liav(! much re-
spect for it, unless it were understood to have bei-n used by way of
compromise, and for that occasion only, where a [)oint hafi already
been su|)pos<'dly chosen by the nu ' od. Wt;n' the rule actually meant
as one of t^eneral ai)p!ication it;W uld be ;i stranye piece of empiricism.
Suppose, for example, that nature had made' the bay at the southw(»t
end of the lake in ([uestion to extend 29 niori' miles to the westward,
and .'{ more miles to the sout liward. than it does, and to terminate in a
sharp point as at the bay that waschosen: tbm tlie N. E. and S. W. line
woulfl last leave the lake at the su[)posed point, as would also one
bearing N. W. and S E. It would result then, that at tlie place of the
intersection of these two lines, on ;,he wati-r's edye, we would have
both tb<! most nortliwestern point of the lake and its most, soulli-
western. And not only tliat, l«ut would liave found a unrtli ■\\i"-\rrn
point that would i)e more sonllni-n than an\- other [)la( n the lakt;
shoresl
But, turning awa.\ from allK''ometrical {)aradoxes, if an examination
be made of the simple outline of the lake as drawn by Mr. Mitche'U, it
will be reaflily seen that a N. E. and S. W. lim- would cut its shore ex-
actly at wliat appears to !»(• the inlet, but reall.\ i^ the outlet, in Mther
words, at Hat Portat^e.
'.'AC) TMK MISSISSII'IM KIV'Kli AM) l'''S SOL'liCH.
Ai;i riiJiltiT <»r Kro|)i;ii))iic;il iiil,<Ti'Sl, alorn-, Laving ik* <)lh<!r sJKnifl-
fanci- now, il tn;i.y Ix; said thai by a slrict applic^ation of th<! arbitrary
liiH- and <-n\, m\i: jusL ••xplairn-^l, lln' most; riijrt.hw<rsl,('rri iy)itiLof Lin-
l.al<i' of lln* Woods would iiol Ix- loiind wlif-n- l)r. 'I'iarks pla(M;d it.
I'or this fact tlnMiomtiiissioinTs of ]H-S.l art; not to Ixr l»larn<!d: tin; hasty
survey of th»; lal«; was drxihtlcss thf most that tiioir means jxirmitU^d.
.Still, had tint thoroii„'h survi-y oiijcclt-d to iri thr ';ast been allow(!d
luTt',, It would havi! slmwn that, thf point, tiny wen; looking for acconl-
to thidr K<!«)Mii"tri<ai iindi-rst^andinK of the wording of the treaty, was
one sitiiat<'(| sixti-i-n or sev(;nt<'<-ri miji-s farthi-r t,o tin; northward than
till! one Ihey did scjifct; \n-Aini a [loirit on tin- west,»;rti shore .if the Lac
I'lat they passed l)y un visited.
That s(jc,h assertion as to the availaljiiity of tliis lake is not unwar-
ranted may l»e Hecn hy what two i)ractic,al rm-n wrot<.' ahcMJt it, many
years afl/erward. Th-- llr^t one was Alexander Weils, assistant sur-
veyor ciri the Canadian exploring' <xpe(|it ion of I Mr,><, whose words are
as follows:
"Lar- I'lat is more a liay of the Lak<r of iIp' Woods than a separate
lake, its discharge Ijein^ through a lotiy deej) hay, vvhii-h in some jjjaces
has the appearatK^i; of a broad river. ♦ » * The Indians
ai>o Wild that at liiuh wat'-r the cinreoi would be for some days from
the Lake of tiie Woo(Js into Lae Plat."
(Japtain W. J. 'I'winin^;, the chief astronomer of the .Xin.tric-an party
"if the boundary survey of IS72, when also speaking of the lake, wrote
thus of it in his report: "It is, however, a little ilitllcult U) under-
stand the proct.'.s of reasonitiK by whieh those (•(immissioners, whih;
indudini,' the Cli'ar Water and the Lake of the .Sand Mills under the
Keneral title, yet rejeeird the Lae I'lat."
With a view to t be adjustment of the, unsettled (ju<!StlonH between
Great Itritain and the I'nitetl States, of which the most iuifxirtant
was the boundary line in the --ast, Sir Iloberl Peel, the Kn^flish pre-
mier, sent Lord Ashtiurtori to the United StateH to enter into negotia-
tions with Mr. Webster the American Secretary <»f State. Now these
two t^entlerni-n wtire as mu'b jileased with each othcsr as were Oswal<l
aiid Franklin before them, so there was no clashing, and alTairs were
amicably arranged in due course of such friendly dijilomacy.
Ai'i'i;.\M)ix. ;;47
With ri'tfiird to thi- Urn- ;it Ihf, L;il\f of thi- Woods, tln-y ailopl.fd Inr
its t<!rmin;ition tin; pfjint vvhirli li;id Ix-itit sclfM-b-ii iirid<;r tin- 'I'iiirks
plan an aln;a(l.y dt'scril»<!(l.
Tlu! tn-Jity was siKsi'-d on AuKtist iMli, 1H42. 'I'liat part of it whidi
is ol' iriiportiirir"' Ikti- was contairnd in tli<; second artifjc, towanl th<-
<-ii(l, th<^ wording hitirij^ as tf^ijow-^:
"ThroiiKJi thi- si'V<;rai sinaliiT kcs, strait.s, or sin-a.'is ronrn-r'tnii,'
tht; lak»- ht-n- iiifritiorit-d, | Nann-cari], to that poitit in Lac la I'liiii', or
riainy Lake, at the Cliatidi''rc Falls, from which llu- cotntnissioners
traced the line tr) the most northwestern point of the Lake of the
WofKls: theni;e alon>f the said line, to the said most northwestern pf)lnt,
hvAiiii In latitude 4!»^ Si' '>'>" north, and in lon>,'itnilf '.if,' ll';}''" west
from tht! Ohservatory at <Jn!enwich: thenci', accordiriK to existing
tn;aties,, due south to its intersection with the forty-ninth paralh;! ol
north latitude, and alorn^ that parallel to the Kocky Mountains."
i! 12. CONCMDINO UkM,\KK<.
This KJinpl*! statement of a somewhat complex subj<,'ct now nearH Its
end, there only rmainiuK to he j^iven a shrirt statement of tlie last ac-
ti of the twr) ^,'overnmi'nts in reference t(j the houndary line at the
LaKe of the Woods.
It will he remembered that the surveys of \H2'.i terminated at a se-
lected point on the lake, whence the remaimler of the houndary was
1') folkjw two designated straight iin<!s -one a short one due south to
the' forty-ninth [)arallel, tlic other tlie parallel itself from the Intersec-
tion of the short linr to the Stony Mountains. No prfivislo-i was made
in the treaty of (ihe-nt for s.irveyiii)^' them; for their markinj^ on the
(ground was not needed at that time.
How lon^. however, tliese lines would have remained unsurvciyed it
is hard to j^uess: the ordinary otllcial mind, beinj? .somewhat literal and
p<trfunctory, does not rearlily look beneath the surface of records, or
interest itself in matters that ha[)pened before its time, and thus may
be ignorant of important luatters well known to "outsiders." It hap-
pened that in the year 18(0, it was Incidentally discovered that the
boundary line at I'embina, as hitherto accepted there, was about 4,700
feet south of the true p<isition, whi(;h of course was in latitude 49".
348 THE MISSISSII'I'I lilVHR AMi ITS SOURCE.
Tht' fact was brought tt) the attt'ntioii of President Grant, who, in
his message to Con^jress of Doceiubcr utli, ISTO, rccouinicnded that a
proper survey should be made of what remained unmarked of the in-
ternational boundary. In compliance with his recommendation an
act was passtid, approved March l!>th, 1><T2, which provided for the sur-
vey and marking by engineer olHcers of the i)oundiiry between the
Lake of the Woods and thi' Rocky Mountains; the work to be done un-
der the direction of a joint (;ommissi(rn appointed by the two govern-
ments concernc^d.
The Held work of this survey was performed during the years 1872-3-
4, and the commissioners signed the maps and i)rotocol on May 2!tth,
1876.1
A few further observations concerning the nominal '"point" o the
Lake of the Woods, in the light of the information suppli'd by the
modern survey of 1872 may be added now. It was very essential that
the astrcmomers of this second expedition sliiiuid tind the original
point, and they did: for after a long search tlifv succeeded in discover-
ing, below the water, the remains of the woodtm monument erected by
their predt>cessors, as a datum from which the point at the head of the
marsh could be traced at any future time. From this reference poi?it,
by running the old recorded courses, they were easily able to tlx upon
the very spot i n the water— not on the land— where the agreed upon
most northwestern jjo'nt was to be found. Then' is however a certain
1 Alttioutrti tlie foUo Willi: puiiivri'aplis iifci tiit iicly tu ilir line castof the inlet of
till' Lake of tlu' Wixuls. :iii(l i-oiiscciueiit ly do not coiiie witliiii tlu' propel' Sfope of
this paper, yet, as tliey treat of a very iinpoi taut matter u liicli no one of lato ye;irs
seems t<) liave l)rou:;lit to pulilie atteiilion. 1 venture their int rochiet ion in tlie
stiape of tills note.
Listen first to what I>r. Hisrsby saiil in is.")0. "Noiie oi tlie islands on the old route
and ill this ;ri('at lake, eiiihraein' i line 4:i() miles loiitr. are as yet appropriateii to
the I'liited Stales or (ireat It lit. ,,.... Som»' of tlieiii niust very speetlily ht'eome val-
uable niiiiiii'.r property, as on Giinllint lal;t>. Iron lake." &(■.
What he said tlieii is still in foive. Tliere is no boundary line aetiially est.il)-
lislied between the inoul h of l'i;ceon river and the ('liaudiiip_fa^llsjiear the head of
K.-iiny lake; for tlie mere reeapit illation in tlie treaty of 1^4:2, o? tlie names of t lie
various minor lakes through w'liiel) the line siioiikl inn I-, no praetleal boundary,
seeinj; th.-it iteannot aeeount for Iho ownersliip of the innumerable islands. The
survej'or jJtcneral of publii- lands on this side of the line may instniet his deputies
to survey only Inlands on the Minnesota side of the ehannel. and the ofHeials in
eliiii'geof the Dominion land surveys siniilary insliuil their people wofkiir.^ from tin;
Ontario side, but that may not al wayssuffiee. Suppose a ease where t In I'e are t wo
channels, one broad, shallow, and slut,'}5isli, the other nari'ow. but deep; who shall
APPENDIX. 349
anomaly connected with the matter of this extreme end of the bound-
ary well worth mentioning'. The modern map shows the lioundary
line windinjr alon^^ the channel of thf bay of tlie Northwest Angle *
until it intersects the surv> yed north and south boundary at a point
about 4,250 feet south of the commencement of the latter, across which
boundary the dotted line representing the water meanders l)acl< and
forth for a quarter of a mile, when it crosses it for the last time and f(ir
the rest of the distance of nearly half a mile its waving course is en-
tirely to the westward till it strikes the initial "'most northwestern
point" where the boundary survey begins. Thf general lil<eness of
direction comes from the generally north and south bearing of the
narrow water course or slough. This marshy strip continues for half
a mile farther, in a direction a little east of north, till it V»egins to
divide into little branch swamps, whose final course is hidden by the
margin of the map.
Judging then Viy the map of to-day, it would appear that the com-
missioners of 1823 selected a point where no point was, but the expla-
nation of this action is simply that in that year what is now water
was then land, though marshy; for in 1872 the water was several feet
higher— the Indians said eight— than when the first survey was made.
But irrespective of these hydrographical considerations, remains the
l>eculiarity of an international boundary line which for over three
decide to wliicli count ly ilu' ishnul or islands lyinir hot ween the two i-lmuld Iwlonv't'
It nia.v be lenienilit red tlial not so very many yeais have elajised since lliere was
tiouble on tlie Pacific coast concern infl llieSaiiJuau islands, wliii-h li.id i)ractical)le
eliannels on eacli side of tlieni. In 1l<at case tliei-e was no (j nest ion of frreat wealUi
<-oncerried in the dispute, it was the (i\iestion of soveieij-'iity otily. And yet, sucli
was the warmth of feelinfi. tliat but for tliu remoteness and i.iaceessil)ility of tlie
locality, the Americans and En^'lisli would luive eonie to unotflcial blows overit.
Suppose further, that befweei, any such chaminels on our noi'thcrn boundary
tliere shi-uld l)e round an i-^land rich in ori's, another Silver islet for instance,
would there not be from loth countries a 'ush foi' it and for the neijihlxninj; shoivsV
How loti;.' then would it 'le l)cforc there ciime :■ coullict of jiirisdici idu'/ And when
too there is considerec' tlu> excitability of the American tempeianient, and tin-
proved custom of the people to take up arms on tlK- si)ur of the moment, as shown
by very recent events, blood mi^Mit be slied before vhe !.'overnnients of the two
countries dreamed of danser.
As Mr. Gore, the charge, d' affnirrs. wrote in !sO:j, the ad.justnient of the matter
should not be neglected until "pyivate iraln and individual possession >hall init i-
minjrle themselves in the (luestion.''
But this humble stat(>ment will i)robal)ly meet witli litt le attention, and 1h- but
the voice of Cassandra.
350 THE MISSISSrPlM HIVEK AXI) ITS SOUKCE.
quarters of ;i niili' hounds nothing, by reason of its being to that ex-
tent entin.'ly within the territory of one of th.e nations concerned.
Can anyone thinl< that such nicetit's of location wt^re contemplated by
the treaty inal<t;rs t)f 1782-3 V i
The geographical position of this time honored point in the swamp,
was accurately ascertained i)y the commission of 1872. It was in lati-
tude 49° 2:V 50".28 and longitude 95" Os' o«".7. These tlgures then
supersede those embalmed in the "Ashburton Treaty," which were de-
rived from observations made in a time of less perfection of instru-
ments, and of scantier astronomical facilities generally, than the pre-
sent affords.
It is somewhat strange that the peculiarity of conllguration of the
international Vjoundary line at the Lake of the Woods should have re-
(luired years for its complete recognition on our American maps, in
view of the plain wording of the treaty <A 1842. At times before this
final settlement, the line to the most northwestern point of the lake
appeared on some printed maps, but during a couple of decades or so
succeeding this treaty it seems to have been pretty generally forgotten,
and was not to be found on current maps of the United States. The
absence, at that time, of any resident population in Minnesota, or the
British possessions, near enough to the lake to make the position of
the boundary line there a matter of importance or interest, served also
to keep the subject in the background.
1 Still this is merely a nntter of surplus;if;e. and can iiifriniro on no one's risbts;
for a matliematieal line lias no breadth, and if sti'aisrlit ran inclnde notliing. By
making the most northwewttru point on Lac Plat tlicte would liave beeuuosucli
auon aiotis line, and more tlian as iniicii again of land would have accrued to the
United States tlian l)y tlic present boandary . But had tlio said point been placed
at Rat Portage by the conuuissioners of lfi:i:{ -wLicli I verily believe to be the place
contemplated by tlie treaties of 17.S2-3— there would have l)eea formed the most curi-
ous politico-geoinetrical situation that can be imagined, in view of the fact that
there was no Mississippi river lying exactly west, and of the next fact that Instead
of abandoning the policy of a point on the lake tlie convention of 1818 required It to
be connected by a due nortli or south Hue with the 4i>th parallel. By the carrylnir
of the boundary to Rat Portage, under these circumstances, the Americans would
have gained a geographivNil victory, but It would have been very emliarrassing.
Let the reader inspect tiie modern map of the Lake of the Woods and work out
the problem as to what the Americans would then own— if he can.
Al'PENDIX. 351
In the winttT of 1S60-1, the prt'stMit uriti-r was toniiwjrarily cinpldycd
as the clerk in thfi office of thf SuptTintciiflent of Public Instruction
for the State of Minnesota, and while there had occasion to inspect a
proof sheet of a small map of the State, which ha(] Ix-en sent to the
office with a request that any errors in it should be corrected. As its
publishers, (Monteitli and McNally, of Ni'W York,) had not made use
of the information desiralile from tlie tfovernment land surveys, which
at that time had already projjressed over more than one-half of the
area of the State, the nuip was entirely obsolete, and the firm was so
informed. Up to this time eastern map-makers had .scarcely learned
that it was their place to abandon tlie topography of the Nicollet map
of 1842, as fast as it was superseded by the actual .surv<.'ys of the K''"-
i-ral land olfice. At the recjuest of the pul)lishers named an entirely
new map was compiled in the office mentioned, for tlie school geogra-
phy it was intended to be a jjart of. This afforded an opportunl+v for
indicating the northwestern boundary of Minnesota correctly, in con-
nection with the named lakes of the treaty referred to that defined it
in detail.
It is to Nicollet's map, however, that should probably be laid most
of the blame for the omission, on maps in general, of the boundary
line through the Lake of the Woods north of the forty-ninth parallrh
for this map, which was about the only authority for the geography of
the upper basin of the Mississippi— the region personally visited by the
I'xplorer — was not extended far enough north to show the lake, though
all the rest of the boundary lakes appear on it, liaving been copied
from the old maps of the boundary commissioners of 1823.
Little by little the eastern publishers correjted their maps ir tiiis
matter of the txmndary line at the Lake of the Woods, but it took
many more years for the departments of the United States government
to get their eyes opened in the same way, at least that was the case
with the General Land Office. This office pul)lished every year a series
of maps, showing the state of the surveys ordered by it, but as regarded
the Minnesota map, that continued for years to represent the line as
running direct from the Lainy Lake river, to the west shore of the
lake to the forty-ninth parallel. Not until the year 1867, and then
only because the Rev, E. D. Neill— the Superintt tident of Pui)lic In-
•'■HK MISSISSf.M.r KiVKK ..NT) ]TS SOUUCK.
stnictiori n-fcrrtMl to (••ili..ri ti, ..»♦
™mv,. r,..o<«„lti„„ „„ „„. a„„„al ,„n„s „f „„„,,., „f , „ ^,^^^
FOliT SHELtAHQ,
IXDICX.
Acad, of Science, France l.'Ki
Accaiilt, (or Akoj, conipauloti vt
Heiiuepin ~*. "<>, 28t')
Adams, C. C. editor N. V. Sun. .. 201-, 24S
Adams, John, American states-
man ;i08. :»!», liU, ai;j. 338. 344
Adams, J. Q., American statesman
3.'(>. 332. ;««, XU
Adams.Wm., British plenipotentiary 3'.'8
Adirtmdacks.the 2it2
Agassi/., Louis, (naturalist), liike.. 0
Alton, G. B., Minneapolis 24s
Ako laUe 255, 2.56, 2!tt
Alabama, ment'd 25,30
Alatjama river, men'd 20
Alexander VI, Pope 38
Aiftonquins. the 45, 46. 49. 58
AlU'jihany Mts 1,57. 2;f5, 310
Allen, James, Lieut. U. S. A., 140. 151.
153, 206, 278, 288
A lie n lake 275. 288
. Allouez. Claude, a pioneer of New
' France .58,64
Altitudes, see "elevations"
American Fur Co 124
Amuricau Geographical Society.
12, 206. 248
Amiehel. Spanish name for Florida. 18
Aminoya. an Indian town 27
Andrus creek 288
Anne, Queen of Eng 142
Apalache. an Indian town 21
x\.rafi;o, Francois, French savant 156
Arkansas river 25, 66, 68, 83. 101, 157
Arliansas Indians 3(), 72
Ashl>urton. Lord. English statesman, 340
Ashburton Treaty 350
Assiniboine river, the 117
Assiuiboines, the 47, 73, 114
Assawa lake 1.58
Astor, John .lacob 124
Atlant ic ocean, the 4S, 200
Auckland, Lord, British plenipo-
tentiary 324
Auguelle, Anthony, (or Picard du
Gay) 73,76
Ante an Indian town 21
Azores, the 38
Baker, James H., meufd. 171. 198. 224.
248. 284
Baltimore, Md 157
Barclay, Anthony, Brit. Oom'issioner 337
Barnes. J. M.. photographer 180.248
Bayard. Jiunes A., U. S. plenipo-
tentiary 328
Bear Point 252,285
Beaver, tlie, ment. .. 55
Becker county, Minn 22
Beloit. Wis 154
Beltrami, G. C, e.xpl >rer, 141, 161, 23<i. 289
Beltrami county, Minn iS)
Betiiidji lake ... Jl
Berlin. Wis 6i
Bermuda Islands 16
Bergamo. Italy 135
Bieama. de. Luys Hernando. ........ ^
Bienville, de French officer 86. 90
Bigsby. .lulin J., Dr •tt7. 339. 348
Big Stone lake 56, 136
Bilo.xi, city of 86
Bishop, Miss, authoress ]51
Bison, the 55
Black river 54, .58, 74
Blakeley, Capt. Russell, St. Paul,
Minn 247
Bloody river 13h
Boliall. Ileiiry 17,-
Bonaparte. Napoleon 1()4, 105
Boston 116
Boundary commission 337
Boundary line bet. Sioux and
Ojibwas ii;i
Boundary line bet. U. S. and Gr.
Brit., (nortliwestern boundary),
101, 305, 306. 307. :{0!). 311. 312, 318. 326. 335
Bousiiuai, fur trader J24
Boutwell, W T., missionary,
121. 144, 149, 1.58. 161. 284
Boutwell creek 225. 251, 25;j. 285, 298
Bouviu, fur trader 124
Bo wen, Sir George.Brltish statesman 206
Brainerd, Minn 126, 171, 192
Brazil lo
Breck lake 188, 192, 194
Brewer, Judge D. ,T.. U. S. court 206
Brockway, Minn 126
Blower. J. V., author of this book, 1 ;
his coiiimission to survey Lake
Itasca, 1,2; he reports progress. 2;
his letter to G.!azier,205; his sketch
map, 229; his chart reported to the
historical society, 231; appointed
commissioner of Lake Itasca State
park, 237; other references. 225. 262
286. 291, 296
Brower Island 278,287
Brower, K. B 346
Brule river 77
Brunei, Francois, guide 158
Brydeu. Miss Beulah. stenographer. 146
Buchanan, James, Prest. U . S 134
Burgos, Spain 17
Burlington, Iowa 74
Burr, Aaron 130
854
INDEX.
<;;il)fza do Viicii, Nuih'Z SJ
CudllUii-. L:iiiii>the, u Fruucli otticer. 01
Ciillioim. .1. (' i:«i
»';iliforiiiii. (j II If of ti'-'
(.'jinibnti , a Frcni'li town ITS
» "ariiula tXt, «l». !»", IW, '.»!», ;«M5. M'!. .iJZ
Canaveral river 114
Capalia. an Indian town Sli
Caron, le. ^i.'rc 40
Cart ii/-, Jarciiies, uarly Frencli ex-
plorer 40. 40
Carver, .loimthaa, explorer, lia. li:t 114
llti, ■^H.i, ;il.'>
Carver's Cave. St. Paul. Minn IK
Carver eoiiniv, Minn IIT
t'as<iul. an Indian town -'(l
CasH, Lewis, explorer 14;t, 14.'), ;iK4
<.'ass <-oii Illy. Minn VH
Cass Lake. Minn.. 17, I'-T, 132, i;i4. I4ii. 143.
148. ir):j, i(ji, '^41
(Jasselals. fur trader 12;t
Castle, .1. N., U. S. Consrress.. .. 2(4, 248
Cat Creeli 214
Cliairiiuanilffon bay. Lake Superior, .'i4
Clianihers, .lulius, explorer, ItiO, I'.W, 195.
201, 2;h
Cliainl)er's ereek, m. 1S2, 16<), 170. I'.t4,2:.>2.
2.51. 2.'i;i. 2.")0. 2,>7. 250. 200. 2(U. 2S5, 2<J2
Clianiplnin, do, Samuel, Frencli »'x-
plorer 40, 44, 40
Cliaiiiplain, Minn 75
Cliarleville, du M., French officer. .. 00
diaries V.. of Spain 23,32
Cliaudiire Falls, (K.-iiny lakei .... 34H
(Miaves, de. Alonso, Spanish officer.. 28
Chaves, de, Jerome, Spanish geo-
grapher 28.32
t'heniers, Antoine, voj/nyeitr 124
Cheniers, Michel, viiiidyr.ur 124
Che-no-wa-(re-sic, Ojlbwa Indian — 102
China, mentioned 4."). (10
Chucajiua river ;14, 82, 8;t
Chi<-aKo, 111,, mentioned 154
Chipijewa river. Wis 70
Clarke. Hopewell 102. 214, 201
Clarke's map 210
Clarke's creek 25,h, 2f)0, 280
(Jlarke's lake 2i>,5, 287, 205
Clauses, Savoy, France 155
Clay, Henry..., 328
Clearwater river 0
Cleveland. 0 101
Clinton, De Witt 143
Clough. W. P 248
CobI), W. R.. Park Rapids, Minn.. '208, 248
Cofitache(iui. town 28
Colbert, French statesman 00, 02, 91
Colbert river, (the Mi.ss.) 84
Coles, Juan, Spanish officer 29
Collot, Gen .quoted 101
Columbus, Christopher, Ills map — Ki
Commission of J. V, Krower 1
Conimissi'er of the Minn. State park 233
Comstock, S. G., Congressman "247
Congress. U. S 234, :(07. :«»•.•. 348
Conirri'S Internationale de Heme 200
Cook. W. W 188
Cortes, Hernando 17
Coteau des Prairies 9
Cott^m, , Mr., a fur trader.... 123. 124
Courville, Gov. of Canada .58
Coza, town of 20, 30
Craig's (Crossing 11
Crane, J. C 248
CresceiitSi)rings,Lake Itasca.2<i.'>, 273, 285
Crow Wing. Minn 12:<
Crow Wing river, (or De Corbeau,)
8, 109. 120, 140, l.V), 1,58, 2'.«, liOO
Crozat, M., a French officer '.W
Cuba 10
Curtis. Prof. S. J., Park Rapids,
Minn 202, 248
Cutting, Hon. C. I)., Klcevllle,
low. I 208, 248
Dacai;. M.. aiiotl'cerof La Salle 78
Dakotas. tho 44,78
Danger lake 255, 2,56, 286, 204
D'Anville, geographer 342
Dassell, Miss Minnie, stenographer, ■246
Davis, C. K., Senator of Minn 247
Davis, Prof. W. M.. Harvard Coll..
•248, 301
Definitive Treaty of peace, bet. Eng.
and tlie U. S 311
Delatield. Col. Jo.seph, U. S. A 317
D'Llsle, maps by 314
De la Koche, Sieur 07
Demaray, (Jeorgianna. Mrs 120
Demaray creek. ..16i5, 270, 271, 273, 280. 208
Depth of water 2,50
Des .Moines river 9, 5,5, 6.5. 74
De Soto, Hernando, dlscoverer,24. 05, 2ii4
Detroit, Minn 108.172.179
Detroit. Mich 01. 131, 132, IICJ. 134, 143
Diplomatic correspondence, F. S ... 300
Discovery of the source 12
Discovery, what constitutes 14
Distances 253. 2.50, 278
Division creek '288
Dobbs, gi-ographc- 341
Doe lake 139. 140, 141
Dolller. pt're ....50, Of)
Dolly Varden. a boat 106, ItW
Douglas, D. H.Capt 131. 132
Down the Great River, a lying book, 20<i
Dralnagi! 'lasln, of Miss, river 7, 2:t5
Drake. Sir Francis :iO
Dreulllettes, i)(->« 6:t
Droughts, in Ita.sca basin 88,89. 251
Dubuciue. Iowa 77
Duluth. Sieur 60. 77
Dunn, Robt 2t)2
DuPratz, Le Pago 80
Eastman, Oapt,, Seth, U. S. A 151
Elevations, sea 241
Klfelt, Charles D., St. Paul, Minn.... 247
Elizabeth, Queen :«>
Elk creek 258. 286
Elk lake.. .4, 110, 110, 120, 12L 162, 172.
180, 183, 184, 1K5, 188. 189. 194, 106, 208,
213. 214, 222, 225, 228, 2.56, 2(V), 202, 26;{,
204, 270, 284, 286, 29:1, 2<)5, 2t)8
Elk springs 286
Ellis. Henry, (luoted 341
Erosion, by water 243
Escauxaques, an Indian tribe 36
Espiritu Banto, Klo de 18, la, 28, 20
Exeter, N. 11 130
Eureka, Wis 62
INDEX.
ano
Falls of Saliil Anthony, soo Ht. Aii-
t lioiiy l''sills,
Fcroo Isliiiids lis
I'ilotrano. Italy 141
Finney. T. S. sftlltT at Itasca -'tU.'
Flnn.v. Mrs. T. S., do '-'tS-J
Fishery (juest Ion XJO, :ill. -iC
FIske, .John, (Miotod !>
Flandraii. WH UlU
Float ln>rllo^' crock '-'.'>1. -'Vj, 'Jf.r>
Floatint? MosH lake. 184. 274. 2r«, 277. 2s!t.
2!t4. 2!>r>
Florcnrc. Italy .. i:i.">
Florida 16, 17. •J.'i. 97. KK.', ;t(i7
Follcs Avolncs. the I'-'l
Folsoin. Wm. H.(; 218
Fond du Lac. Minn 112. 124
Forests in Itasca basin 2.'i'.»
Forll, Italy 1:«'
Forsyth. Mai. Thos i:i2
Fort Brady. Mich 15!)
Fort Creve Coour 74
Fort Frontenac t)7, M)
F.Tt SnelUnfi, Minn.. i:t. !:«!. 140.
141, 14;t. 157
Fort St. Charles 140
Fort William 123
Fox. Mr. Uritish Minister ;t2:i
Fox river. Wis 42. 45, 58, «4, i:i:j
France cedes La. to Spain l'>0
France :i07. :t<w. 310, :ilO
Frandiet, Desire. Nicollet's uniide. l.")7
Franklin, Benjamin.. 308, yOll. :tlO,
;ji:j, :i44. :!'.h;
Franquelln. tlie Reo«rapher H.'i
Fra/.ier. , Mr., settler of Itasca. 2w.s
Frazier lake 2>*M
Fremont. <Jt>n. .L C 1.57
French, tlie, discoveries by IJ8
French river 40
Freytas. Nidiolas. padre 36
Frisbie, W. H. artist 24ti
Frontenac, Gov 68
Frost Geo. S., Detroit, Mich 247
Fur Companies 113
Fur Trade, the 317
Galena, Ills 143
Galinee, pi re 59
Gallatin, Alliert, statesman.. 333, 334, 335
Galverton l)ay 34
Gambler, Lord, Britisli phenipoten-
tlary 328
Gannett, Henry 217. 249
Oaray, de Francis, Gov. of New
France 17. 18
Garcilaso de la Vega, his work
quoted 29. 81
Garrison, O. E.. St. Cloud 187, 19.5, 261
Garrison. Mrs. O. E 247
Garrison's Beaver Dam 274
Garrison Point, Itasca 18.5. 285
Gay-gwed-o-say creek 2n8
Gelst, Emil. St, Paul 232, 248
Gentleman's Magazine, quoted 342
Georgia '25
Georgian bay 41,46, 50
Girard, Minister of France 307
Gilfillan, llev,, J. A... 192, 193, 194, 195, 287
Gilflllanlake 288
GhiEler. Geo. 11, tourist 191
Glazier, Wlllard..l91. 200, 204, 224. 2-i.5.
2:!0. 261. 289
(Joldtliwaite's ("ieographlcal Maga-
zine 209
(iiue. Clirisiopher, cliargi' d'atTalres
317,3IM. ;{49
Goulbnrn, Lord, British plenipoten-
tiary 328. :«15
(iouid. L. M '283
(iraham. .1. I).. I^ S. A 313
(iran<l Marals. near St. Paul 7.'>
(;ran i Portage. Minn I2:», ]'24
(iiaiit, Anna, teacher 262
(ir.int. President 34"
(ireat Britain 100. ;t06. ;t07. 326
(ireater Ultimate Keservolr.. Is4. 2.59.
2r7. 285. 2<.4, 295. 296, 297. 298 .W
<;reen. Mr., settler at Itasca. 217, 2.'0
Green Bay, Wis 4.5.46.48,51, 57
(ireen bav . ... 63, 70. 13:{
(ireen lake 195
(irenvllle. Lord 3 5
(irignon fur trader 124
(iroseilliers, Sleur des early ex-
plorer 47, .5;t. 55, 57, .58, '294
(Jroseiliiers lake '287
Gu.achova. an Indian tr)wn 2t). 27, 29
tiuif of Mexico.. . 16. IS, 61. (•><•>. i:i6. 1."i7,
llKl, 240, 243, '^71, '279, 299
(iull liver 158
Gunlilnt lake WS
Hall. Edwin 189
Hall, Edwin S., surveyor., 172. 174, 189,
195. 214
Hall lake 2s7
ll.iil road 280
IIarrowl)y, British minister 222. .IZi
narrower. II. D,, New York 213
llastings,Minn 50
Hauteurs des Torres. .1.59. ItU. 167. 180
1S4.216. 219. 221. 243. 252. 25:), 25.s. 2tr>.?70. 300
Hawkesbury, Lord, British minister
317, .J'22
Hay creek 219
llayden, F. V., Dr 73
Hayden. W. A., topograplier 246
Hayes. Mr. E 261
Hayes lake 273
Haynes. F. .1., photographer 246
Heard. I. V. D., St. Paul 288
Helena. Arkansas 60.70, 73
Hernando de Soto lake.. 170. u;3. 270.
271. 275. '277. 278, 'is7. 2'.>3. 294, 2',t5 297
Hill. Alfred J . . , '2:13. 278. 288, 289, 305. 351
Hill. E. S,, photographer 246
Hochelag.a. Canada 40, 97
Holland, Lord, Brit, plenipotentiary 324
Holland 308
Honduras. 16
Hopkins. Kev,. W. E.. Park Rapids.
.Minn 248, 262
Houghton. Dr. Douglas, 149, 154
Howard. .Mrs. Jane 151. ■2^li
Howard creek 1(S, '270. 273. 286. 298
Hubbard county 211.244. 249
Hudson's Bay Company. .58, 243, 26.5,
306, 311, 321. 3'22. 326, 339
llulbert. Helen, Detroit, Mich 218
Hunt. Chas. A 246
Hurlbut, Geo. C. N. Y 191.206, 248
Huron lake. (Mer Douce) 41. 42, 44
Hurons. the 40,41,43,49,51,52, £8
356
INDEX.
Iberville, de, quoted 34,39,84,85, 86
Ice sheet, in Minn 9
Illinois, tlie 51, 73
Illinois river 71,74,79, 80
Infant Mississippi river 291
Iowa 9
Iron lake 348
Iroquois, the 49,53,56, 60
Island creek 251,285
Isle des Alumettes 43
Isle Royale 310
Itasca Basin, 10, 210, 211, 220, 224, 22i>,
240, 242, 243, 247, 249, 279, 289, 294, 297, 299
Itasca Moraine 242
Itasca, lake, 1, 10, 110, 129. 141. 144, 1.53,
158, 162, 166, 172, 175. 182, 184, 19, 196,
213, 214, 219. 220. 221, 222. 225, 235. 241,
244, 249, 2;)2. 25;i, 2.55, 2.56. 257. 259, 260,
262. 265, 268, 270, 280, 289. 292, 293, 294,
296. 300
Its naming 144
Mentioned as the source. See
"'source."
Itasca State park 12, 1T6
1 vlson, Blakenian & Co 216, 217
.lacobla, Carrie B., teacher 262
Jay, .John, American statesman.
308, 309, 311, 315, 316, 338
.TefTerson, Thos 308. 332
.lelTery, T., quoted 31.5, 342
.leune, C.,ptre. 44
.lewett, C. F., draughtsman 246
Jogues. pfTe 47
Johnston. Jane 146
.Johnston. John 146
Joiiet, Louis, early French explorer.
36, 57, 60. 62. C^l, 64
Josephine lake 9, 253, 256, 286, 294
Kankakee river. Ill 71
Keg-wed-zis-sag, an Ojibwa Indian.
150, 158
Keokuk, Iowa 65
Kettle holes 10
Kettle river. Minn 56
King, Kufus, American minister.
317, 318, 319, .320
Knisteneaux, Indians 47, 54
Kirk, T. H., Asst. Supt. Pub. Instr.
Minn 218,225, 248, 261
Kribs, Frederick, surveyor. Park
Rapids, Minn 246
Labrador 97
Lac la Biche, (Elk lake), 4, 123, 124,
132, 134, 139. 284
Lac la Pluie 347
Lac la Rouge 124
La Crosse 74
Lac Travers 123
Lagny, de, Mons 71
La Hontan, Baron 88
Lake, Ako. See Accault.
Allen. See Allen lake.
Champlain 312
Clarke. See Clarke lake.
Doe. See Doe lake.
Elk. See Elk lake.
Oilfillan. See Glltillan lake.
Glazier 197
Hall. See Hall lake.
Hernando de Soto. See Hernando
de Soto lake.
Huron 36,51, 131, 330, 3117
Iron. See Iron lake.
Itasca. See Itasca lake.
Josephine. See Josephine lake.
Julia 138, 284
Leecli. See Leech lake.
Manitoba 10
Little Man Trap. See Little Man
Trap lake.
Long. See Long lake.
Mary. See Mary lake.
Michigan 36, 51, 71
Morrison. See Morrison lake.
Neplssing 307. 308
Nioollet. See Nicollet lake.
Pepin 75, 132
Bed. See Red lake.
Sandy. See Sandy lake
Sii)ilant. See Sibilant lake.
Superior . 49. .50, 54, .58. 60, 1!7, 130,
132, 279, 299, J^OO, 310, 313. 314, 315,
329. 334, 341, 344
Turtle. See Turtle lake.
Twin. See Twin lake.
Whipple 274,275,276, 277
Wiiite Bear. See White Bear lake.
Winnipeg 10
Winnebago .57, 64. 117
Winnebegoshish. See Winnebe-
goshish lake.
^Voods, of the. . .124. .300. 305, 306.
310, 313, 314. 31.5. 316. 317, 319, 320,
321, 324, 327, 328. 329, 330, 332, 334,
337. 338, 339, 342. 344, 345, 346, 348,
350. 351
Lamberton, N. J 128
Lanman, Charles )H7
La Place river 158
La I'ointe, Wis 57,63, 112
La Potherie. quoted 59
La Salle, Ren6 Cavalier, Sieur de..
48, .59. 60, 61, 62. 69, 71, Ti, 76, 80, 81, 98
Laurens. Henry. plenipotentiary .308, 309
Leech lake. .9, 123, 126, 141, 146, 1.50, 158,
161. 194, 284, 300
Leech Lake river 161
Length of Mississippi river. ...- 236
L'Escarbot, quoted 97
Lesser Ultimate Reservoir. ..256, 285, 294
Le Sleur, a murderer 124
Le Sueur, Pierre 88, 132
Letang, Mr., a fur trader 123
Lewis, T. H.. archaeologist. ..109, 197, 248
Little Boy river 8, 158
Little Elk lake 287
Little Falls. Minn 126
Little Man Trap lake. 9. 10,175, 183,288, 289
Livingston, Robert R., American
statesman 311
London Eng. 300,310. 315
Long, Maj. S. H 136, 339
Long lake 310, 314
Lost river, Minn Q
Louisiana. .98, 104, 105, 125, 318, 320, 321,
322. 329, 334
Louisville, Ky 61
Louisville Courier- Journal 179
Lowe, Mr., Itasca lake 219
INDEX.
3;u
Lyendecker, John. Sauk Center. .248,
258, -363, 289, 2yj
Lyendecker lako 288
McBeun. John, fur trader 124
Maekay, Lieut ia2
McKay, S. A.,Rev., Owatonna. Minn.
248, 2(i2, 280
McKay lake 268
McKenzie, Alex., author 124,217, 3!9
Macerata. Italy 135
Mackinac, (Miehllimackinac)..46, 50,
70, 91, 123, 124
McMullen, Wm 264
Macoiub. A., Gen 152
Madoc, Welch explorer 15
Madison, .lames, American states-
man . .317. 318, 319, 320, 321, 323, 324, 3*27
Mandans, trilie of 117
Mandeville, Sieur, French officer. . .. 91
ManitoDa 117
Maps, general references.. 16. 28,100,
110, 313. 315, 317, 336, 340, 342. 343
Maps, in the text.
Ortelius (1580), valley of the
Miss. 33
Sanson (165G). valley of thcMiss. 35
Orontlus (1531), valley of the
M iss 37
•Toliet (1674), Miss, river 67
Hennepin (1683), La Nouvelle
France... 78
D' Lisle (1703), La Nouvelle
France 90
I)' Lisle (1750), La Nouvelle
France 93
Jefferys (162) Canada 113
Carver (17i;6), Upper Miss 115
Pike (180.-)), Upper Miss 127
Schoolcraft (1820), Upper Miss. 133
Beltrami ( 1828), L^pper M Iss 139
Eastman (1855), Upper Miss 148
, Schoolcraft (1855), Upper Miss. 156
Chambers (1872), source of
Miss 168
Shen-e-wis-i-schick (189 0),
sources of Miss 193
Glazier (1881), sources of Miss.. 199
Glazier (1891), sources of Miss.. 207
Clarke.H.(1886),sour'sof Miss.. 21.i
Brower, J. V. (1888), sources of
Miss 229
Hill, A. J. (1892), sour's of Miss. 3:J6
Hill (1892), Lake of Woods 340
Mitchell, John, (17.')5), Lake
of Woods 343
Brower, J. V. (1892), Itasca
Basin.
Margry, Pierre, historian 81, 94
Manjuette, pi-re 36, 63, 64, 65
Marsh, I. N., settler at Itasca 211
Mary creek. ..214, 220, 250, 251, 253, 2.A
285, 298
Mary lake 159, 255. 256. 286, 204, 2J8
Mary valley 10, 210, 220, 250, 233, 285
Maskoutens 45.57,58, 63
Measuremep ts. 2,-)3. 259, 273
Merriam. Wm. H., Gov. of Minn 233
Meteorology 278
Mexico 140
Gulf of 6,16,18,24,61, 66
Michigan 130
Michilimaekinac. See Mackinac.
Middlebury, Vt 142
Midway reservoir 2.55, 285
Mikennalake 274. 288
Mllle Lacs lake 75. 112
Miller. N. D.. engineer 242, 248
Milwaukee. Wis 143
Mines 348
Minnesota 351
Minno.sota river iVi
Minnesota legislature 198
Minnesota Historical StK-iety..l2, 93,
224, 230. 2;U, 232, 23;{. 293
Mississippi river. .18. 2;i. 36, 39,40.4.5.
50, 52. 56. (;2. 63, 130, 132, 238, 283, 284,
289, 299, 305. 307, 310, 31-1, 316, 319, 320. b28
Missouri, state 43
M issou rl r i ver . . 7, 52, &"), 99, 1 17, 157, 240, 297
Mitchell. John, map. .313, 314, 343, 344, 345
Mobile bay 9, 20
Mobile river 18
Monroe, James, American states-
man 3,0,322,323,324.32?, 3:!2
Montreal 40, .59. 317
Moraine, tlie Itasca 9,10, 270
Morison, Alex. H 122
Morrison, Allan 122
Morrison, Wm....l20, 122, 128, 181, 218,
2:10, i i3 286 294
Morrison, Hill,. 164, 169, 176. 'fsi,' 183',
189, 213, 258, 270, 285, 287
Morrison lake 293, 294, 295, 297
Moscoso, Luys, Spanish commander. 26
Motley, Minn 8, 214
Mounds Its, 109
Mouse river 117
Muscatine, Iowa 65
Naudowessies (Sioux). .47, 49, .50, 51. 54,
56, 58, 72, 114
Names of objects at Itasca 284
Names of rivers 282
Naming of Itasca 145
Napochles, trlbeof 30
Narvaez, de Panfilo 20
Natchez 103
Nelll, E. D. (Rev.) 247. i5l
Nelson, Geo., early fur trader 124
Nelson river 3119
Nepissing lake 40, 43
Newfoundland 39, 197
New France 69, 98
New Madrid, Mo 26
New Orleans 104,105, 141
New York, state 312
New York, city 143, 213
New York Herald 166
Niagara Falls 143
Nicollet, Jean, early explorer,43. 44.4.5, 46
Nicollet, Jean N,. explorer. .110. 1,5,5,
163, 181, 192, 195, 206, 214, 218, 230, 268,
270, 273. 278, 289, 294, 295. 296, 351
Nicollet's creek 209,222, 251, 253
Nicollet's Infant Mississippi 268, 275
Nicollet's Jake 289, 294
Nicollet's upper lake. ..160, 270, 271,
274, 277, 284, 295
Nicoxiefs middle lake 275, 284
Nicollet's lower lake 271,274,284, 298
Nicollet's springs 270,273, '295
Nicollet's valley 250,258,270,286, 298
Niemadalake 289
358
INDEX.
N'ilco, an Indian town 2!t
Norlli Diikotii !>
Northern Pacific 11. H..l:34, lt)6, 175,
177, 179, 19L'
Northwest Co 11
North tvestern Ixjundary. See boundary.-
Nova Scotia 'M7
Oalcep. T. F., New Yorlt 2i(^
Ochecliiton aO
Ohio river 29,60,61,65.80.283, 311
Ojibwas, the Ill
Omosl^os Sagaigon (Elltlalce) 119, 284
Ortelius, his work quoted 32
Osases, the 53, 72
Oswald, Biciiard, British plonipo-
tentiary 308, 309, 310. 346
Otepe, Mr., an early trader 12;i
Ottawa river 40,44,4,5, 51
Ottawas, the 51,52, 58
Otter Tail lalte 123
Ouat«uat. Indians. See Ottawas.
Oviedo, Spanish author 22,28. 94
O-za-wind-ib. Ojibwa Indian.. 145.
148, 149, 150. 1.53
Ozawindib point 251
Pacific ocean 305
Pacaha. an Indian town 25, 27
Paine. Barrett Channinj; 191. 196, 197
Paris 135,155.307,308,310.311. 319
Park. Itasca 22:i. 232. 233
Park Bapids, Minn 24. 214, 216.241, 242
Park region, the 233
Pascagoula river. Miss 18
Patoutet 60
Patterson, Mr., a tourist 219, 228
Patterson's cabin. Lake Itasca. . .244, 268
Peel, Sir Robert 346
Pembina. N. D 159
Pembina river 117
Penalosa, Gov. of New Mexico 36
Penicaut, early e.tplorer 91
Pennsylvania 310
Pensaeola, Fla 22
Peoria lake. Ill 71, 70
Peouaria tribe 65
Perrot. Nicholas 58,59,60. 64
Philadelpliia, Pa 136. 2;J0
Picard du Gay lake 274, 288
Pictured rocks, Lake Superior 148
Pierrepont, a murderer 124
Pigeon river 314, 348
Pig's Eye (St. Paul, Minn.) 75
Pike, Gen. Z. M 123, 126. 132, 140, 383
Pillagers, the 123
Pine River, Minn 126,128, 158
Pineda, de Alonso Alvarez 17
Pinkney, Wm., American state<?man
323,324.327. 332
Pokeguma Falls 300
Pokeguma lake 9
Ponoede Leon, Spanish explorer. 17, 20
Popple, Henry, atias 314
Porter, Jeremiah, Rev 154. 248
Porter. Peter B.. U.S. commissioner. 337
Portugal 1.6, 38
Pottawatomies, the 51
Prairie du Chien, Wis 123,132, 327
Pre-historlc races 108. 109
Princeton, Wis 664
Ptolemy, map 16
Quebec 27.40. 4«, 49. 64. 311
(,>iii/.(|iii/.. iin IiKiiantown 25, 27
Radisson, Sieur. Pierre d'Rsprit ..47.
4!^, .'■)1, 52, .53. 5;'). 56. 57, .58,
Radisson Lake
Rainy lake.". 344.347.
Rainy lake river 3(i5.
Ramsey. Ale.x., prest. of Minn.
Hist. Soc
Ranjel, Rodrigo, Spanish officer
Rat Portage 339, 345.
Rayr.ibault. Pere
Reaunie, fur trader
P.;d Cedar lake 123,
Red lake 9,10. 114.
Ked lake river 117,
Red river (of the north). . .9, 83, 109,
117, 136, 157, 216. 279. 299.
Hed river (of the south)
Red river trail
Red river valley
Red Wing
Reservoir, great ultimate. See
"Greater ultimate," etc.
Reservoir, lesser, etc. See "Lesser
ultimate." etc.
Reservoir, midway. Sec "Midway
reservoir." *. ic.
Reservoirs. Itasca basin
Relations, tlie, .lesuit 43,
Rliodes. 1). t'.. photographer 246.
Rliodes, J. H.,of Little Falls
Ricc.N. W
Rice lakes 9,
Rice's Minn
Richardson & CV)., fur traders
Rio Grande del Norte 16, 25, 30, 85,
River of Palms 16,
Rob Roy, a l)ojit
Robinson. Fred. John, a British
plenipotentiary
Rock paintings
Rock Island. Ill
Rocky Mountains 235, 325, 297, 330,
Rock river, 111
Rogers, Robert, quoted
Rouse's Point, Vt
Rowe, Barbara, mOvlior of School-
Craft
Royal Geographical Society, Lon-
don 198,20.5,
Rum river 75,77.109.
Rush. Richard, American minister
to Great Britain 333, 334,
Russell. Jerome
Russia
294
2^7
348
308
224
28
3.50
47
123
127
137
316
300
157
188
9/
50
11
9i
261
248
262
1^0
126
124
282
21
181
109
74
348
99
101
312
142
300
113
SS5
328
327
Sageun. Matthias f7
St. Anthony Falls 52, 73, 76. 89. 90
1.52, 157, 316
St. Clair river 131
Saint Cloud, Minn 183
Saint Croix river.... 47, 77, 109, 12, 114,
310, 316
St. Esprit, Mission 57
Saint Francis river 114
Saint Francis Xavier Mission 57
Saint Jacques mission 57
SaintJoseph, Mich 123
INDEX.
859
Saint Lawrence river 40, 41. 61, Si.
11(5, :«i7, 312, :ii4, air. dsr. 3:17
Siiiut Louis. Mt> 120, 12«, IHti
Saint Louis river 132, 14;i, 239
St. Marc, mission ."ST
Saint Marl<s. town of Fla 21
Saint Petersburg 327
Saint Paul and Dulutli Railway 214
Sanborn,.!. B .Gen 233
Sandy lake, Minn 32, 8li, 112. 117
Saul< Rapids 7i>, 11.5
SaultSte Marie, Midi.. 47, 60, 112. 131,
144. 147
Saulteaux, Indians 54
Savannah, Ga. 307
Sayres, Mr., a fur trader 123, 124
ScheflFer, D. .1., mentioned 2!);{
S<ihenectady, N. Y 142
ScMiolcraft, Henry U... 4, 121, 131, 132,
152, 181, 192, 200, 206, 213, 214, 218, 2;t0
284. 2f<9
Schoolcraft, Lawrence, (father of
H. li) 142
Schoolcraft island.. 3, 14.5, 149, l,5;i. 159
166, 180, 194, 196, 221, 249, 251, 2->2, 278, 291
Science, tlie 213
Scuri. Prof . an Italian artist 141
Sellfirlt. Lord 325
Sha-wun-uk-u-mig, an O.jlbwa Iix-
dian 188
Sliea,.Iohn G 94
Sliell Prairie, Minn 175
Sheyennes, the 73
Sibilant lake 220.251,287
Sibley, H. H., prest. of tlie Minn.
Hist. Soc 161
Siegfried, A. H., explorer 179
Siegfried creek 181, 195
Sioux 1 id Ojibways, warfare 112
Smallpox among Indians 124
Smythe, J. F. D., quoted 81
Soto. See De Soto.
Spring Ridge creek,. 270,273, 288
Source of a river. whatisitV 236
Source, (of the Miss. riverK.l, 12, 117,
128, 130, 137, 143, 157. 2:!2, 2:U, 237, 26:^.
289, 291, 295, 2y7, 395, 317, 319. 321, 323
South America 16
South Carolina 25, 28
Spain 38, 96, 100, 310, 323, 325
Spanisli accounts of discovery — 14, 15
Spring Ridge 288
Spring liidge creek 270,273,288
Springs 275
Stony Mountains. See "'llocky
Mountains."
Stony Ridge 10,175. 10
Survey, d'. S.), of lake Itasca. 171, 177
Survey, by J, V. Brower..l 2,3,21.5,
225, 234, 244
Strachy, British under-secretary.
308, 309, 310, 311
Superior copper mines 143
Superior Historical Society 121
Sweeney, Peter C, settler at Itasca. 177
Talahassee river 21
Taliaferro. Ma.j. U.S. Indian agent. 15i
Talon, latendant of New France.
58. 61, 62
Tampa bay 25
Tennessee 25
Tennes.see river 83
Tensas river 17
Tetons, the 58
Texas 24
Thompson, David, astronomer.. 117,
139, 316, 317, 373
Three Rivers. Can 44,51, .54
Tiarks. Dr , Britisli astronomer.. 34.5.
346, 347
Toml)igbee river 20
Tontv, Clievaiier, French nol)le-
nian 77. 87
Toronto, Canada 128
Traverse lake: 56
Treaty.of 1794 315
of 1807 314
of 1818 .333, 335
of Amiens 104
Fontainebleau 99
of Ghent (1814) 327. 328
of Ghent 333,334,337, 347
of Paris (1783) 102, ((8, 310, 322
of Han Ildeford 104
between Spain and U. S. (1795).. 103
of Utrecht 321,322, 323
of Versailles 102
Trenipeleau, Wis 74
Triplets, the (lakes) 274. 27.5, 276, 287
Truesdell, Wm. A., civil engineer,
St. Paul 24, 248
Turnbull, Peter, civilengineer(Park
Rapids) 10, 209, 210, 246, 261, 28.5. 286
Turnbull's road 210. 2.53
Turnbull point 250
Turtle Lake 129. 138
Turtle river 300. 305
Tw ining, W.J., Capt. U. S. A., astron-
omer 346
Tffin Lakes 255,256,286, 294
Two Rivers, Minn 126, 128
Twiss, Traverse, quoted 341
Ultimate reservoir, greater. See great-
er, &c.
Ultimate reservoir, lesser. See lesser,
&c.
United States 101, 307, 308, 32t)
House of Representatives . . 385
President 318, 319, 378
Upham Warren, geologist 8
Upham lake 243
Utica. Ill 71
Utrecht, treatyof 142
Vanderpool. F.. a tourist, 219, 220, 221, 262
Varnhagen, Count 16
Vera Cruz, Mexico 17
Vergennes, h rench minister 308, 310
Verndale, Minn 183
Verendry, explorer 92, 341
Vermcmt 312
Vespuciu.s, Americus 16
Waddon, Mr., a fur trader 124
Wanzer, Maj Cliarles, civil engineer 246
Warner, A. T., Park Rapids 264, 293
Warren, W. W., his work on tlie Ojib-
\\ a nation, quoted 112
W: liington, George 315
Washington, state 305
Watal>, Minn 113
Water, depth of 250
360
INDEX.
Webster, Daniel 108, 346
Wells, Alex., surveyor 346
Welsh, the discoverers of America.. 15
Wheeloclv, Joseph A. (St. Paul Pio-
ncGr I*rt?ss) . . , . 2U2
Whipple laiie',' i'sY, 188"l89,"2i6,'226,'27'l',
2; 4, 287, 2{t4, 295, 298
White Bear Lalte, Minn 283
White Earth Agency, Minn. 10,166,179, 188
Wild Uice river 166
Wilmington, Del 130
Wincheil, N. U., State geoloRist of
Minnesota. 8, 1S2, 225, 2:J2
Wlnnebagoes, the 42, 43, 46
Winnebago lake 46
Winnebigoshlsh lalie 236
Winnipeg lalce.... 49, 341
Winsor, Justin, quoted 32, 2a5
Wisconsin river 45, 64,66,74, 327
vv'olcott, Dr., member of Cass' party. 132
Wulsin, Lucien, of Cincinnati, O.lfg, 248
Yazoo pass 32
Yollowhead river 160, 300
Yorli, Canada, battle of 121
Yucatan 17
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