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Trc

SIX YEARS

THE CANADIAN NORTH-WEST.

\%~mr — *i O

MONS. JEA]^ D'ARTIGUE.

Tramlated from the French by L, C. Gorbett, Esq., B. A., mid

Rev. S. Smith, B.D.

HUNTER, ROSE AND COMPANY.

1882.

Entered according to Act of the Parliament of the Dominion of Canada
in the year one thousand eight himdred and eighty-two, by Jean
D'Artigue, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture.

PREFACE.

THIS Book, which I dedicate to the Canadian Public,
is not a work of fiction, but is purely historical.
In writing it, elegance of style has not been studied, but
rather a simple relation of facts as they occur. It may
be wanting in interest to the lover of imaginary adven-
ture, but to those who love the truth, I trust it will be
found sufficiently interesting to repay a perusal.

My object in undertaking this woik is not to gain
notoriety, but to furnish the Canadian Public with an
account, not yet given by any writer, of the object of the
organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force,
the trials, privations, and adventures which they encoun-
tered, and the results of the expedition.

This book is divided into three parts, the first of which
contains a history of the campaign of the North -West
Mounted Police, in the year 1874, under command of
Colonel French, and though it is short, it relates facts
which should form a few pages of Canadian history and

28:uy

Preface.

being an eye-witness, I have simply stated the facts, leav-
ing to the general public the task of deducing conclu-
sions.

The second part contains the history of our sojourn in
the far North- West, and gives an account of the journeys
made by myself over 7ast plains ; the first, undertaken
to acquaint myself with the manr.ers and actions of the
Indians in their primeval state, and the second, in dis-
charge of official duty, and to study further the Indian
character.

The third part is an account of my return journey from
Fort Saskatchewan via Saskatchewan and Red River,
and Lakes Winnepeg, Superior, and Huron to Samia, and
thence by rail to Quebec. This part will be found the
most interesting of the three, and also the most useful to
intending settlers in the North-West as it contains geo-
graphical and agricultural information which will give
an idea of the future of that region traversed by the
Saskatchewan.

CHAPTER

T
JL.

Page.

General State of Affairs in the North-West Terrikories previous to the
year 1874 — Organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force
— My* Enlistment in that Corps— The Apostle of Temperance-
Military Life during oiur Stay at the New Fon, of Toronto 9

CHAPTER II.

Our Departure from Toronto — Ideas of a Misanthrope about Civilization
— The Northern Metropolis of the United States— St. Paul — The
Red River Valley — Our First Camping Night on the Prairie — The
Hunters of the Plains— Our arrival at Dufferin, opposite Emerson. 19

CHAPTER III.

Dufferin in 1874— The Stampede — The Final Oiganization of the
Mounted Police — The Apostle of Temperance again — A Sioux
Scare '.

CHAPTER IV.

Departure of Mounted Police from Dufferin — Desertion of Inspector
Richer— Beginning of Hardships— The Mounted Police Trans-
formed into Cart-drivers — A Modem Diogenes — Camping on Souris
River^The Trial of Sub-constable P.— State of the Mounted Police
on their arrival at Roche Perc^e 40

CHAPTER V.

Report that the Mounted Police had been Massacred by the Sioux -
Roche Perc^e- Church Services— The Division of Our Forces . . . .

Contents.

CHAPTER VI.

Pack.
Departure of the Main Column from Roche Perc<?e — The Templar's
Castles in the Air Vanish— Departure of Our Party for Fort Ellice
— A Change for the Better— The Glorious Death of a Sioux Brave —
A Horrible Dream 58

CHAPTER VII.

Fort Ellice — Our Departure — The Region between Qu'Appelle River
and the South Saskatchewan— Our Arrival at Carleton- The un-
even Course of Love

CHAPTER VIII.

My First Attempt to Paddle a Canoe — Ditticulties of the Journey in-
creasing— Our Arrival at Victoria — Making Corduroy Roads— Our
Arrival at Edmonton — Tlie Vicissitudes of the Main Column D -
A Constable's Strange Request —Reaching the Junction, and the
Disapix)intment that followed- New Orders from the Government
— The Forces directed by Colonel McLeod — Return of the Com-
missioner to Dufferin 72

CHAPTER IX.

Edmonton in 1874 — My Journey to the Plains— A New Mode of Tra-
velling— My First Experience in Camping Out in Winter— My
Arrival at BuflFalo Lake -A Bold Hunter— An Indian Camp on
Red Deer River— An Indian Dance or Pow-Wow 81

CHAPTER X.

An Unexpected Proposal — On the Road Again — A Disagreement —
Hunting the PuflFalo — Disappearance of my Guides — Visit to An-
other Camp —A Council of Warriors — A. Peculiar Feast— On my
Return — Frozen Ears— Paternal Anxiety — The Indian Doctor —
Return to Bu£Falo Lake — Visit to the Cree Indian Headquarter s —
The Indian Conjuror's Account of the Creation of the World— My
Return to Edmonton and Kind Reception 89

Contents.

Vll

CHAPTER XI.

Paqe.
Disturbance during my Absence and its Causes— Selection of a Rite for
a New Fort — Resignation of Colonel French and Appointment of
Colonel McLeod— His Visit to Fort Saskatchewan— Fort Tail
Creek— On the Red Deer River — Second Journey to the Plains —
Importunate Guests— Meeting an Interpreter from Fort Mclieod
— A Proof of Half-Breed Bravery — Lost !— My Arrival at Pigeon
Lake 100

CHAPTER Xn.

Pigeon Lake and its Surroundings^Retracing our Steps — Short of
Rations — How to Prepare Dry Meat — On the Right Road again
— Battle River — Our Arrival at Tail Creek Fort— A Word about
That Place— Constable P. a wonderful Mathematician — My. At-
tempt to Assist him 115

CHAPTER XHI.

Constable P. is Succeeded by Constable S., of Fort Saskatchewan-
Winter Dwelling of Buffalo Hunters— State of the Region between
the Rivers Bow and Red Deer during the Winter — Sad fate of a
Courageous Missionary — Inquest of a Supposed Murder perpetrated
at Tail Creek — My Return to Fort Saskatchewan 124

CHAPTER XIV.

Good Results from Stationing A Division at Fort Saskatchewan —The

Trial and Execution of a Cannibal^ — My Resolve to Return to France

— A Theatrical Performance and Ball at Edmonton in 1880 — St.

■ Albert— Lost ! — A Night on the Plains — Found a Friend— Frozen

Feet 129

CHAPTER XV.

Modes of Travelling to Reach Winnipeg— The Steamboat Ltly My
Departure From Fort Saskatchewan— Importunate Visitors — The
Fate of the Half-breed Race— Fort Pitt— The Half-breed Home-

Vlll

Contents.

Paoe.

The SandbankB- Battleford— Carieton— Our Arrival at Prince Al-
bert— A New Mode of Travelling Adopted— Prince Albert Settle-
ment 140

CHAPTER XVI.

Departure from Prince Albert— Cole Rapids— Fort i la Come — A Les-
son on Geography- Loss of a Part of Our Provisions— Bear Hunt-
ing—Birch Islands — Mosquito Point — Cumberland — Trunks of
Trees Encumbering the Baiiks of the River — Our Arrival at Pas
Mission 151

CHAPTER XVII.

Future of this Colony — A Second Lesson on Geography completing the
First — A Bad Adviser — Gone Aatray— Lost ! — One Pastime as
Good as Another- On Ihe l!ight Road Again — Cedar Lake— Our
Arrival at Rabbit Point 166

CHAPTER XVin.

Departure from Rabbit Point — Bad Advice and Lost Again for Two
Days — Demi-Charge Rapid — Pigmy and Giant— Our Arrival at
Grand Rapids — A Word on that Coloty- Some Advice for the
Canadian Grovemment— Reaching the Far North-Weat from Win-
nipeg, via the Lakes Manitoba, Winnipegoosis, and Cedar 182

CHAPTER XIX.

Departure from Grand Rapids — Icelandic Settlement on Lake \Vinni-
p^ — Selkirk — Our Arrival at Wlnnip^— Rapid Progress of that
Place fdnoe 1870 — Xn route for Ontario— Ideas of Americans about
Canada — Duluth — Good Pastime on the Lakes— Visiting my
Friends Once More— My Arrival at Quebec and on board of the
iSarmotian, en route for Liverpool 197

SIX YEARS

IN THK

CANADIAN NORTH-WEST.

CHAPTER I.

General State of Affairs in the North- West Territories previous to the year
1874 — Organization of the North- West Mounted Police Force— My
Enlistment in that Corps— The Apostle of Temperance— Military Life
during our Stay at the New Furt of Toronto.

QUITE recently on the vast plains watered by the
Missouri and the Saskatchewan rivers, numerous
herds of buffaloes roamed, whose hides were eagerly
sought for by fur-traders. Some of these fur- traders, taking
advantage of the craving appetite for strong drinks which
characterises the Indian race, made a practice of exchang-
ing liquor for furs, and thus obtained them at a price
very much less than their market value. The result of
such dishonest transactions was often disastrous : for
the Indians, once under the influence of alcohol, are
transformed intc wild beasts, and having obtained a
quantity of it, they would keep themselves under its in-

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

fluence as long as the supply lasted. While in this state
they would fall unexpectedly upon the fur-traders and
colonists whom they massacred without mercy ; and, not
contented with this inhuman slaughter of the whites,
they were continually at war among themselves. Such
was [the 'state of affairs in the North- West Territo-
ries at the time of their annexation to the Dominion of
Canada.

To put an end to this, and, at the same time, to prevent
the total destruction of the buffaloes, which were hunted
almost solel}'^ for their hides, the Dominion Parliament
passed laws prohibiting the manufacture and importation
of alcoholic liquors into the above country. But this did
not stay the odious traffic, nor did it prevent the mas-
sacres (which, for the most part, were perpetrated in the
neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains and remained
impunished). Therefore, in the year 1873, the Government,
under the leadership of Sir John A. Macdonald, resolved to
organize a Mounted Police Force, to send to the North-
West, whose presence there, it was thought, would have a
salutary effect upon both the fur-traders and the Indians.
This corps, composed exclusively of volunteers, numbered
300 horsemen, called constables and sub-constables, and
was divided into six divisions, each commanded by an In-
spector, assisted by two sub-Inspectors. At the head of
the whole force was placed a Commissioner and an Assist-
ant-Commissioner. With this handful of men, the Gov-
ernment expected to restore order in the North- West

six Years in the Canadian North-Wesl.

Torritories, We will see later on, to what extent this
force fulfilled the expectations of the Government.

In April, 1874, I was in Montreal, and, one morn-
ing opening the Witness, my attention was directed to
an advertisement, the substance of which ran as follows :

•' The Dominion Government requires 150 volunteers for the
North- West Mounted Police. The knowledge of English or French
is obligatory. Moreover, the candidate must have good anteced-
ents, and be a good horseman. For further particulars, apply to
Colonel Bacon.

"A. Fbbnch,

"Commissioiwr"

Not knowing what portion of the Dominion was called
the North-West, nor the nature of the duties of the
Mounted Police, I at once called on a friend, showed him
the advertisement, and asked him what it meant. This
gentleman, thoroughly versed in Canadian afiairs, ac-
quainted me with the fact, that by the North-West was
meant all that tract of country which is bounded on the
west by the Eccky Mountains ; on the south, by the
United States ; on the east, by the Provinces of Ontario
and Quebec, and the Atlantic Ocean ; and on the north,
by the Polar Seas. He dwelt largely on the natural rich-
ness of this vast territory, which the building of the Can-
adian Pacific Railway would place within the reach of
millions of homeless people. He also said that, in Sep-
tember of the previous year, three divisions of the North-
West Mounted Police had left for Stone Fort, Manitoba; and
with the 150 volunteers advertised for here, three more

Six Years in the Canadian North- West

divisions were to be organised at Toronto. He said fur-
ther, that, in the following summer, this police force would
make an expedition among the Indian tribes of the North-
West, in order to stop, if possible, the liquor traflSc that
American traders were carrjdng on in our territories. My
friend carefully pointed out the difficulties and dangers
which this expedition would encounter, and said, in con-
clusion, that if everybody knew as much as he did about
the North- West, the Government would not easily find
300 men who would thus run the risk of losing their
scalps.

On my way back to my lodgings, I began to ponder
on the last words of my friend, the word "scalp" rousing
in my mind scenes that I had quite forgotten. In my
younger days, the works of Fenimore Cooper, and other
novel writers had impressed me with a desire to visit
those countries, whose inhabitants could perform such
wonderful feats, and I rejoiced that now it was in my
power to satisfy my curiosity ; all I had to do was to en-
list in the North- West Mounted Police Force. So I at
once called on Colonel Bacon who, after perusing my cer-
tificates of age, character, education and nationality,
wrote me down as a candidate. He told me to present
myself at the military barracks, on the 14th instant, when
Colonel French would be present for the purpose of test-
ing and enlisting men, and he had no doubt I would be
accepted.

Accordingly, on the day appointed, I presented myself
At the barracks, which I found surrounded by a large

Si<ic I ears in the Canadian North- West.

crowd, most of them candidates for enlistment like myself.
Everyone was provided with certificates from men of high
standing, both in the government and in the church ; and
being a foreigner, I expected to be rejected. I was, there-
fore, greatly surprised when, with a few more, I was
selected to pass the doctor's final examination for enlist- «
ment. Passing this, no words can* express the happiness
I felt when told I was accepted, and to be at the Grand
Trunk Railway station on the evening of the 16th inst.,
where we would take the train for Toronto.

On returning home, I began my preparations for depar-
ture, speculating the while on the novelties and excitement
of my future life. I fancied I saw myself, with some of
my comrades riding days and nights together, over the
vast plains of the North-West, fighting the Indians and
the whiskey traders. I saw settlements destroyed by the
red man, the ladies carried away to worse than slavery ;
husbands and fathers calling upon us to rescue their wivts
and daughters ; ourselves rushing immediately to horse,
and over the plains pele mele, in hot pursuit ; and, after a
long day's ride, coming upon the Indians at night, when
a brief but fierce struggle would ensue and we would
rescue the captives, and carry them back in triumph to
their desolated homes.

With such exciting fancies floating through my mind,
I again visited my friend and said : " Well, Mr. C, I start
the day after to-morrow for Toronto." " For Toronto ? "
said he. " Yes," said I, " I have enlisted in the North-
West Mounted Police force." " Ha, ha," said he, " tell

Six Tears in the Canadian North-West

that to those that don't know you. One don't give up
an advantageous career like yours, to embrace an adven-
turous one." " You don't believe me," said I, " come to
the railway station to-morrow night, and you will see."

Seeing that I was in earnest, he then tried to dissuade
'me from following up my projects ; stating, in eloquent
and earnest language, fhe folly of giving up teaching for
a life of adventure. I let him talk for an hour without
interruption, and I am sure his reasons and arguments
were good. But with my Quixotic ideas, and my young
imagination of twenty years, I could only see fights, sieges,
and victories.

As arranged by the Commissioner, on the evening of
the 16th, after bidding good-bye to my friends, I went to
the G. T. Railway station where I found some of the new
members of the North- West Mounted Police had prec* ded
me. The time for starting having arrived, we werv. oon
on the way to Toronto.

In the car, sitting opposite me, was a traveller, appar-
ently about thirty years of age^ whose dress would indi-
cate the clergyman : long black coat, waistcoat buttoned
to the chin, straight collar, and broad brimmed hat ; and
yet, his piercing eye, his moustache a Vimp^riale, and his^
martial appearance, told me that I was facing a soldier.

Feeling somewhat lonely, and in order to make the
time pass quickly, I entered into conversation with my
neighbour by asking him in a true Yankee style : " Where
are you going sir ? " " To Toronto," said he, " to join the
North-West Mounted Police, — a military corps, organised

Six Years in the Canadian North- West

for the purpose of putting an end to the liquor traffic in
that country, I am an apostle of temperance, sir, my
whole life is consecrated to that cause."

If all the members of the force are like this one,
thought I, the whiskey traders will do well to decamp
before our aiTival. For my part, being accustomed to,
and fond of, good wine, I did not -share the opinions of
my fellow traveller, who went on discussing the injur-
ious effects of alcohol, and condemning even our best
French wines. This was more than a Frenchman likes
to bear, and I was about to give him a piece of my mind,
when the conductor called out " Prescott." My attention
was immediately directed to three young men, who en-
tered the car, each one bearing a small parcel. " I don't
think there is anyone here for the M. Police," said one of
them glancing all around. " Here is one," said the apos-
tle of temperance, " and one that will count." So saying,
he left me and joined the newcomers.

As he before had done with me, he spoke lengthily and
in parsonical style of the duties which would devolve
upon the volunteers. " Hold on, old fellow," said one
after a while, taking out a bottle, " here is the kind of
beverage that would be of service to us in the coming
expedition. Have a swig, you must be dry after so long
a speech." Thus addressed, the apostle was filled with
astonishment and horror. " Is it possible," said he, " that
you expect with vice to correct vice," and leaving them,
he returned to his former seat. I could now see that not

Six Tears in ihe Canadian N'oHh-West.

only total abstainers were being enlisted, but also those
who were fond of their glass.

About day-light we reached the City of Toronto, and
proceeded towards the New Fort where we were to be
quartered, until the whole force was made up.

We had been preceded there by about thirty men, who
were drilling on foot preparatoiy to horseback drill. As
we drew near the fort, one of the constables came to us,
showed us to a large room, and told us to make ourselves
comfortable. I did not fee how this could be done; for
all I could see as furniture was a large table in the centre .
of the room. I did not, for a moment, expect that this
would be our sleeping quarters, until we were called out
to get from the store a straw mattress and two blankets
each. This looked very much like military life, ^na yet,
we saw at the door an order, reminding us that we were
not soldiers, but civilians.

The next morning we joined the others at foot drill,
and in a short time, made good progress, after which the
riding drill began in the manege. I must say here, that
most of us had overrated our protciency in horsemanship ;
for when we came to ride without stirrups, many laugh-
able falls ensued : men having lost their balance would
cling to their horses in every imaginable position, till the
drill-instructor coming up, would give the horse a smart
lash with the whip, which would make him rear and
plunge, till, freeing himself from his rider, he would gallop
away to the stable. Even the officers were most of them
as bad as ourselves at riding, but managed by some

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

means, unknown to us, to get out of the manege drill,
and went only to the field drill, where stirrups were al-
lowed to be used. The Commissioner himself was a
thoroughly well drilled officer ; but most of the inspectors
and sub-inspectors did not understand the simplest field
manoeuvres ; and their inefficiency was made manifest
before we left Toronto, by the three divisions being
called out together, when the Commissioner gave the first,
or general commands, which should have been followed
by others from the officers ; but their effijrts almost in-
variably proved failures, and produced indescribable con-
fusion. Fortunately we had some of the sergeants from
the regular army among us, wlio, on such occasions would
come forward, put the officers in their proper places and
restore us to order. .^

In the latter part of May, the organisation, training
and equipment of the three divisions were complete ; and
about the same time, the Commissioner received very seri-
ous tidings from the North-West. It was said that the
whiskey-traders were building fortifications, and inducing
the Indians to resist our appioach. As energetic and res-
olute men couM alone bring the projected expedition to a
successful issue, Colonel French called a general parade,
and, after making us acquainted with the above news, he
reminded us of the fact, that we were but volunteers, and
that, before going any farther, we should consider the
dangers and hardships we must necessarily encounter.
That on some occasions, we might be two or three days
without food, and have to camp in the open prairie, hav-

Six Tears in the Canadian North- West.

ing nothing but the canopy of heaven for covering. He
ended by advising any of those who repented having en-
listed to leave the ranks, and return to their homes.
. Very few availed themselves of the opportunity ; and
this shows of what stamp of men the Mounted Police was
composed. It is true they were not well trained, like reg-
ular soldiers, but certainly, courage and patriotism, qual-
ities which every true soldier must possess, were not
wanting in them.

CHAPTER II.

Our Departure from Toronto — Ideas of a Misanthrope about Civilization —
The Northern Metropolis of the United States— St, Paul -The Red
River Valley— Our First Camping Night on the Prairie— The. Hunters
of the Plains— Our arrival at Dufferin, opposite Emerson.

ON the first day of June, we took the oath of office
and the three following days were devoted in
carrying to the Grand Trunk Station, our equipments,
which were to be transported by rail as far as Fargo,
Dacotah. On the fifth we had a holiday. Finally on
the sixth, at 11 a.m., we started for the Railway Sta-
tion with our horses. Our force was composed altogether
of 217 men and 244; horses. Two trains were in readi-
ness for our reception, and, placing the horses in the cars
prepared for them, we went to the dining room of the
station where a substantial dinner had been prepared for
us. Thousands of people were surrounding the station.
One would have thought that all the inhabitants of the
city had made that their rendezvous.

Between the dinner and the departure, a music band
played a good selection of patriotic airs, reminding us of
the services that the country expected from us. On every
side, we were surrounded by an anxious crowd, each one
wishing to shake hands with us once more. The hour of

Six Years in tlie Canadian North- West

separation came at last. The train, which was to take
one division and a half, was waiting. Final words were
littered : " you will write, will you not" said a mother
in tears to her son. " My son," said an old man, " remem-
ber your life belongs to the country. I would rather
hear of your death than of your dishonour." " Don't for-
get your dearest Angelica when you are among the Indi-
ans," added a young girl to her betrothed. And amid a
very Babel of such expressions we entered our train.

Most of the men were in good spirits, but doubtlessly
they would have been less so, if they had foUowed the
maxims of the " Apostle of Temperance" above mentioned.
Among us were some very good singers, and, when the
trains were starting, while the band played the Can-
adian National Anthem : " Vive la Canadienne," they
sang : " The girl I left behind me."

Toronto was soon far behind us ; but the tokens of
sympathy were to follow us, not only through Ontario,
but also through the United States. At the windows of
the houses near the track, many were seen (specially
ladies, bless their sympathizing hearts) waving their
handkerchiefs as long as we remained in view. I under-
stood then that beautiful device : " Fight for God, the
King and your Lady" which ever fills the breast of every
true Knight. By those signs, the ladies not only bade us
farewell, but reminded us to protect and love, in any
country where we went, the greatest earthly consolation
of man, the fair sex.

Th6 next morning, at day-break the second train in

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

which I was (the first being several miles before us,) en-
tered Sarnia (Pt. Edward). This town occupies an
advantageous site on Lake Huron, at the head of St. Clair
River, and from which port several lines of steamers plough
the waters, not only of Lake Huron, but of the whole
chain of lakes with which it is connected. Furthermore
Sarnia is connected with the different commercial centres
of Ontario and Quebec by two lines of railway, the Great
Western and the Grand Trunk.

After taking a hearty m?al at the station, we set out
again on our journey, and crossing the St. Clair river
by ferry, we entered the State of Michigan. The pro-
gress made by this state, during the last thirty years, is
Certainly wonderful. Passing rapidly over the country,
and catching hurried views of the rich fields of wheat,
the neat and comfortable cottages, surrounded by large
orchards of various kinds of fruit, my mind went back
to the time when that region was covered with dense
forests, and the possession of which by the white man
was obtained after many bloody battles with the Indians,
the original and lawful owners. The wigwams are no
more to be seen, and the plough, which carries civilisation
with it, has taken the place of the tomahawk and the
scalping knife of the savage.

During the previous night, the excitement was so great
that we were unable to take any rest ; so sleep came to
claim her rights, and before long, our car looked like a
dormitory. All were sleeping but myself and one other,
a sub-constable of melancholy and taciturn appearance,

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

who seemed disposed to remain awake. He was from
Switzerland, speaking French ; and wishing to know the
reasons that induced such a man to enlist in the Mounted
Police corps, I went over to him and addressed him in
the following and familiar style ; " comrade, what do you
think of this beautiful country ? I never saw anything
like it." " Do you really think so ? " said he, staring at
me in surprise. " Why," said I, " look at those beautiful
fields, those elegant houses surrounded by pretty gardens
and parterres, really it is an Eden ! " " What you won-
der at and admire, I detest," said he, " I would not for
worlds live in this country that yon seem to think with-
out an equal ; for under the appes ace of rich fields and
beautiful houses, are hidden vices \s aich undermine every
society. The country that I would cherish, is one that
would show no vestige of civilisation." " Such a land,"
I replied, " you will find in the North-West Territories,
and yet, if we succeed in i«storing peace and order in
that part of the world, civiUsatiun will soon reach it."
" I hope not," said he, " but to avoid it reaching me, I in-
tend, as soon as we reach Manitoba, to ask for my discharge,
when I will marry an Indian woman, and settle down in
a region entirely savage." " I see you are not only a
countryman of the Swiss philosopher, Jean Jacques
Rousseau," said I, " but also his disciple. As he did, you
think the uncivilised man is, in many respects, superior
to the civilised, and admitting for argument's sake that it
is so, don't you see that in a few years those wild North-
West Territories will be settled by colonists ? " " If that

Six Years in tJie Canadian North- West.

should happen," said he, " I will shift my quarters far-
ther, even to the midst of the Rocky Mountains, if
necessary ; and now, that you know my projects, keep
them to yourself."

I went back to my former seat, wondering why a man
imbued with such ideas had been selected for the Mounted
Police Corps. I never thought that in our time there
were men who shared the paradoxical opinions of the
Swiss philosopher. For my part, I never could see in
what respect the uncivilised man was superior to the
civilised.

Like the rest of my companions, I soon went to sleep,
and never awoke until I heard some of the train-men
shouting " Chicago ! " It was ten o'clock at night. First
of all, we took out the horses, placed them in an enclosure
near the station, and watered and fed them. This done,
the roll was called, and a certain number of us selected,
in alphabetical order, for night watch, and those who were
not on duty went into the city, to enjoy once more the
comforts of civilisation.

Chicago, which is situated on the southern shore of
Lake Michigan, is the most important city in the northern
States. Some fifly years ago it was but a hamlet, com-
posed of a few log-houses ; but, at the present time, it has
a population of about 630,000 souls. The industry and
commerce of this city are very extensive. Its docks receive
a great quantity of grain from Dacotah and Minnesota for
exportation to European markets. Its slaughter-houses
are very numerous, from which are shipped immense

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

quantities of beef and pork ; and, ia regard to building"^
very fevv^ cities in the United States rank as high as
Chicago.

During our journey from Toronto to Fargo, the Gov-
ernment allowed each man a dollar per diem, to cover his
boarding expenses. Through Ontario and Michigan this
allowance was quite sufficient, as the Commissioner, be-
fore we left Toronto, had made arrangements with dif-
ferent railway stations to have meals ready for us at 25c.
per man. But in Chicago, no arrangement of that sort
had been made ; there wo had to pay 50c. for every meal
we took : hence a good deal of grumbling on our part
against the Yankees. But, happily, our stay there was
very short ; for in the afternoon of the next day, we
started again on our journey. Passing along the shore of
Lake Michigan, we reached Milwaukee, the capital of the
State of Wisconsin. Remaining there but a short time,
wo were soon on our way to St. Paul, which we reached
after a journey of one day and two nights from Chicago.

St. Paul is not such a flourishing city as Chicago, but
its inhabitants are more hospitable ; and in our friendly
intercourse with them, they were even too much so ; for
they tried to persu-^de us to give up our expedition and
remain with them» Among other arguments used, they
stat<ed that the American posts, established on Indian
territories numbered several thousand men : yet, these
posts were often attacked and the men massacred. We
replied that we were not afraid ; and that they must not

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

forget, that a Canadian fighting under the British flag,
considers himself equal to three or four Yankees.

The next day in the afternoon, we left St. Paul by the
Northern Pacific Railway, and, travelling all night, we
found ourselves, on awakening in the morning, on the
plains of the Red River Valley where a beautiful pano-
rama was unfolded to our view. On every side we were
surrounded by slight undulating plains which extended as
far as the eye could reach. These plains are not like some
in other parts of the world, which consisting of a
light, sandy soil, lose their rich green appearance under
the influence of the sun's rays ; but, the soil being very
deep and rich, the grass does not lose its freshness during
the whob summer, and consequently attains a prodigious
height ; three tons of hay to the acre, being no uncom-
mon yield.

While I was reflecting on the bright future of this
country, we came in sight of Red River, of which I will
here give a brief description as wc are about to travel
for some days along the banks.

Red River rises near the source of the Mississippi. At
first it flows in a south-westerly direction, then turns to
the north and keeps that direction until it empties its
waters into Lake Winnipeg. In proportion as this river
recedes from its source, the region that it waters becomes
more and more fertile, and the fertility of the soil reaches
its maximum in the Province of Manitoba which is tra-
versed by this stream. Along its course this river re-
ceives the waters of a great number of streams, the most
2

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

important of which, are : on the right shore, Red Lake
River, the Roseau, and the Rat River ; on the left shore,
the Sheyenne, the Pembina, and the Assinaboine. The
course of Red River is about 500 miles in ^ength, and, in
summer time, several steamboats plough its waters be-
tween 'Moorhead and Dufferin.

About ten o'clock, the same morning, we reached Fargo,
then a small village, but now a flourishing town on Red
River. This station, which is about 1300 miles distant
from Toronto, was the farthest point on our journey that
we could reach by rail. We had, therefore, to depend
upon our horses and waggons to complete our journey to
Dufferin, Manitoba, where the three divisions which had
been organised at the Stone Fort were waiting for us.
Dufferin is 150 miles distant from Fargo, and the short-
est road connecting these two places lies along the left
shore of Red River.

On our arrival in Fargo the first thing we did was to
take out the horses and turn them loose on the prairie.
Next, we unloaded our goods, the most of which were to
be conveyed down the river by the steamboat as far as
Dufterin, and the remainder in our waggons. When the
unloading was finished, the stores covered a good many
acres of ground : a sight which greatly pleased the inhab-
itants of Fargo, who, thinking that we would be detained
there several days, were figuring, like true Yankees, how
many dollars they would make by our long stay. But
they little knew what Canadians could do, when properly
directed. The Commissioner ordered that fatigue parties

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

should be organised, each of them working four hours
without intermission, and resting the next four. By
these means, the work was done with such alacrity, that
on the evening of the 14th, two days after our arrival at
Fargo, the three divisions were en route for Duflferin.

We proceeded about six miles when we pitched our
tents and prepared our evening meal for the first time in
the open prairie. With the exception of a few who took
part in the Red River expedition of 1870, we knew
nothing about prairie life, so the greatest tumult I ever
witnessed reigned for a time among us. Constables were
shouting for night sentries, cooks were calling for wood
and water, while at the same time, just by them, was
flowing the river, whose banks were covered with fuel.
Everything in fact was in confusion that evening. After
many ups and downs order was at last restored. In the
centre of our encampment was an enclosure made with a
large cable and stakes, where the horses were confined for
the night. An outer enclosure was made by the waggons,
a passage being left at each corner, where the sentries
were stationed. This enclosure was intended to answer
two purposes : first, to keep the horses from running
away, if from fright or any other cause, they should
break through the inner one ; and second, to be used as a
kind of breastwork if we should be attacked by the In-
dians. These precautions being taken, the bugle called
us to our evening meal.

A repast on the prairies of the North- West had for us,
at least, the charm of novelty. Let the reader represent

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

to himself men seated in groups around several fires, each
having a large cup of tea and a tin plate holding a slice
of bacon and two or three biscuits, and he will have an
idea of the food on which we had to live during our jour-
ney. Such a plain and frugal meal aroused murmurs
among the more fastidious. Some were complaining of
the quality of the food, and some of the scant quantity.
" Does the government take us for slaves by giving us
Buch victuals ? " says one of the former. " They must
think we are babies by giving us such scanty meals,"
says one of the latter.

The grumbling was increasing, when a constable, an
old veteran of the Six Hundred Light Brigade, interposed
and asked what was the matter. One of them said he
would die before he would try to live on bacon. " Oh
no," said he, " you spoiled child of your mother, before
many days are over, a slice of bacon will be as welcome
as a piece of chicken." Then turning to those who were
complaining of the small quantity of food, he said : " If
you are dissatisfied now, what wiU your feelings be when
you have nothing to eat." Later on wo were to realise
the truth of these last words ; but more of this hereafter.
With the above the disagreeable question ended, and all,
except the sentries, retired to rest.

During the summer season the climate in the North-
West is very different from that of Ontario. While in
Ontario the summer nights are as warm as in the tropical
zone, in the North-West Territories the nights are cold,
the atmosphere is clear and bracing, and the sky is bril-

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

liant as a diamond. From this you will perceive that,
each of us being provided with two blankets, our first
camping night was very agreeable. This was plainly de-
monstrated in the morning; for, when the trumpeter
sounded the reveille, nearly every one was soundly sleep-
ing, and some were even then unwilling to rise.

After breakfast the camp broke up and the three divi-
sions resumed their march. Men and horses were in good
spirits, the road was in good condition, and everything
promised a successful journey. From time to time the
monotony of the journey was broken by the sight of de-
serted shanties, which had been inhabited by hunters and
trappers, when buffaloes were roaming in that region.

A great deal has been said and written about these ad-
venturous characters, forerunnera of civilisation on the
American continent. Some of them, if we are to believe
certain writers, formerly belonged to the European no-
bility, and, becoming tired of civilisation, came out to
pass the remainder of their lives among the Indians. This
opinion, doubtless, originated in the imagination of the
above writers. Yet I admit that there has been, and
there are still men who, though used to the comforts of
refined life, will, for novelty sake, go and live for a few
years in a wild country ; but when they go back to their
former life they will appreciate the more its superiority
and advantages. In reality, most of the hunters and
trappers were men of small means in their native coun-
tries. But hearing of the natural riches of the new con-*
tinent, they came over to seek their fortunes. Most of

Six Tears in the Canadian North-West.

them failed in their objects, and unable, for want of pecu-
niary means, to get back to their native lands, they mar-
ried Indian women and settled down to the wild life of
the hunter. From these alliances originated the greater
part of the half-breed population which spreads over the
semi-wild regions of America.

But to go back to our journey. That day we travelled
thirty miles. Rather a long march for horses that had
just ended a long journey by railway, and after leaving
Fargo, living on grass too tender yet to be substantial.
Furthermore, most of them were not broken to harness.
The same speed was kept up the two following days ; the
result being that the horses failed rapidly in flesh and in
strength. On the morning of the 18th we found many
of them disabled, and two of them went down to rise no
more. The reasons the Commissioner had for ordering
such marchea are still a mystery to me ; for, if water was
sometimes scarce along the road, the river being almost
always in view, could easily be reached across the prairie.

The capacity of Col. French, as commander of the expe-
dition, was already being questioned among the men. We
began to discuss what would become of us if, when once
on the vast prairies, several hundred miles from human
help, he would attempt to make marches such as we were
then experiencing.

The disabled h^ses being unable to go as fast as the
rest, were left to follow behind in charge of a small party
of men, and it fell to my lot to be one of them. As for
the main body, they went on as fast as before, and reached

Six Tears in the Canabdian North-West

Duflferin on the evening of the 19th of June. The next
day we also arrived with our sick horses. There we re-
mained long enough to have a good rest ; but the parti-
culars of our stay will be related in our next chapter.

CHAPTER III.

Dofferm in 1S74 — The Stampede — The i'inal Organisation of the Mounted
Police — The Apostle of Temperance again —A Sioux Scare.

DUFFERIN, which is situated near the national
boundary, at the junction of the Pembina and Red
rivers, was of small account in 1874; a Government
warehouse, a Hudson Bay Company store, two whiskey
saloons, and a few log shanties, inhabited by half breeds,
being the only buildings then in existence. As Dufferin
could be reached by steamboat, and being at the same
time the nearest and most convenient way of approach to
the south-western part of Manitoba, it was chosen in 1876
as the principal landing place for intending settlers in the
North- West. This selection contributed to a great ex-
tent, to make of Dufferin a flourishing little town. .

The night of our arrival there was dark and sultry,
and, during the day, the sky had been overcast with
clouds, infallible indications of an approaching storm.
About eight o'clock, we led the horses into the inner in-
closure already described, and made them fast to the
cable. Then the guard was set, one half watching the
horses, the other half guarding the approaches of the
camp, and the rest of us retired to rest, feeling greatly in

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

[ounted

need of it, after the forced -march that we had just ex-
perienced.

The night, as I have said, was extremely dark, and
about ten o'clock, daylight having entirely disappeared,
we were rapt in utter gloom, with nothing to disturb the
stillness, save the usual calls of the sentries. But very
soon, distant but distinct peals of thunder were heard. In
this country, storms rage with a fierceness and fury sel-
dom witnessed in other countries, and even the native an-
imals are filled with fear at their approach. Our horses
soon gave signs of uneasiness, and the fright increased as
the peals of thunder became louder and louder. The sen-
tries, efforts to calm them were vain ; the poor brutes no
longer recognised the human voice. A prey to intense
fear which inspired them with unusual strength, they
broke their halters, trampled the sentries under foot, over-
turned two or three waggons, and madly rushed, with the
speed of wind, over the open prairie. The bugle sounded
the alarm ; and in a few minutes, we were in rank, expec-
ting to have to fight the Sioux Indians who were said to
be in the neighbourhood. But we soon discovered that
the alarm was occasioned by a stampede among the
horses, and that we were required to search for, and re-
covered the terrified animals, and not to fight the Indians.
At that moment we were spectators of a scene which will
be never forgotten by those who witnessed it. A dazzling
and continuous glare of lightning, which seemed like one
sheet of fire above our heads ; crashes of thunder which
appeared to shake the earth to its very cenjtre, and a hurri-

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

cane which, in spite of our utmost efforts, blew down our
tents, formed an imposing sight, capable of frightening
men less resolute than ourselves.

A few horses remained in the corral, whether because
they were less strong than the others, or more firmly tied
I cannot say, and with these, a few of us set out in search
of the others. Our attepmts that night were fruitless ;
but after three days of hard riding, and search, we suc-
ceeded in recovering all but one, which, in his mad fright,
had rushed into the Pembina river, and was drowned.

After removing our camp to a more convenient place
the final organisation of the six divisions into one force
was begun.

The six divisions were designated by the first six letters
of the alphabet : A B and C representing the divisions
organized at the Stone Fort ; D E F representing those or-
ganised at Toronto. During their stay at the Stone Fort, the
divisions A B and C lost about thirty men, who with the
exception of a few who applied for their discharge, were
dismissed for bad conduct, or for being unable to perform
their duties. This, and the expectation that some deser-
tions would occur during our journey, and during our stay
at Dufferin, explains why, on leaving Toronto, our com-
pany contained fifty-one extra men.

Transferring from our divisions to those from Winnipeg,
until their numbers were completed, we still had twenty
men more than we required ; but being near the interna-
tional boundary, frequent desertions occurred, and we were
soon reduced to no more than fifty men in each division.

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

lur

As travelling in the North-West was at that time, and
is yet, very difficult on account of the bad state of the
roads, the Commissioner was invested with full powers to
let tenders for the transfer of our supplies to any part of
the territory where they might be needed. But 'Colonel
French, under the circumstances, showed great -want of
.ibility as Commander-in-Chief. For, instead of taking
into consideration the miserable state to which the horses
were reduced by the journey from Fargo to Dufferin, he
directed that every division should take with it a dozen
waggons, each carrying a ton of freight, and all drawn by
the horses alloted to that division. A lai'ge portion of our
supplies was to be taken in this manner, and the remainder
was to be taken by a few more waggons, and 114 carts
drawn by oxen. The carts, to each of which was to be
attached a single ox, were to be driven by half-breeds
hired for that purpose.

From my position in Division B, to which I had been
transferred, I heard one morning a great uproar in Divi-
sion A camping near by. Wishing to know the cause,
I went out, and meeting a comrade of that division, who
was splitting his sides with laughter, I enquired what it
was all about. He replied : •' It is a long story. You
have brought us from Toronto an original character. Since
his transfer to our division, he does nothing but preach
tehaperance, and remind us of the noble duties which we
are called upon to perform. Some compare him to Don
Quixotte, but others of more reflective minds, say that
before judging him we must see him at work. I was on

Six Yecirff in the Canadian Korth- Wef<i.

dut}' last night when, about midnight, I suddenly saw
issuing from our tent an individual clothed in white, who,
after glancing rapidly on every side, made a dash through
the sentry line, and out on the prairie. I thought to my-
self, here is one who has soon forgotten the regulations
he will doubtlessly return, and I shall know who he is.
Without suspecting him of having any complicity with
the Indians, I watched him closely. Returning at last I
arrested him at the entrance to the Camp, with the usual
challenge, ' Who comes there ? ' The fellow appeared
disconcerted ; but finding himself threatened with being
marched off to the guardhouse, he declared himself a
member of the Mounted Police. ' Give me the password,'
said I> but this he was unable to do. I was going to call
the guard, when seeing him shivering with cold, I took
pity on him and allowed him to pass, laughing to myself
at the thought of the merriment which would be produced
by relating the story of his spending the night on the
prairie in his night-shirt. Everything turned out as I
expected, and my story was received with the uproarious
laughter that brought yea from your quarters. * Zounds! '
said one, ' I understand now why this fellow wears a night-
shirt ; it is to scare the Indians. See how cunning he is.
If the Indians attack us, and are repelled, very well ; but
if it happens to the contrary, I would not give much for
our scalps, — but he, on account of his night-shirt, will be
looked upon as the Great Manitou of the whites and will
remain unmolested.' Look over there ! Don Quixotte
is on sentry ; no better selection could be made after the

Six Years in the Cvina'U<tn Narth-West.

saw

|who,

)ugh

my-

bions

le is.

massacre perpetrated at St. Ives by the Sioux a few-
days ago."

Looking in the direction indicated, I saw a sub-con-
stable of military appearance, walking along the sentry
line, watching the surroundings of the camp, and glancing
once in a whije with a wistful look at his carbine and re-
volver, which indicated a longing to use them., " What ! "
said I to myself, " can this man be the Apostle of Tem-
perance " ? It was, indeed, but what a metamorphosis
since our first meeting ! The clergyman was no more,
and there remained but the soldier. I was going to con-
gratulate him on his martial appearance, when an In-
spector intervened. " Sub-constable L.," said he, " what
are you thinking about to mount guard with your carbine
full cocked ? " " Sir " replied our templar, " In circum-
stances such as these, in which we find ourselves at pre-
sent in danger of being attacked at any time by Indians,
one cannot be too well prepared to fire." The Inspector
had to treat our warrior with arrest before he could make
him understand the danger of carrying fire-arms full
cocked.

The same day, in the afternoon, the news was spread
that the Sioux were marching towards our camp, with
hostile intentions. The Commissioner ordered us to be
ready at once to meet the enemy. The horses, which
were grazing about a mile from the camp, were brought
in immediately, and before long Division A stood in two
ranks ready to march. Colonel French praised the men
of this division for their soldier-like appearance and their

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

speed in getting ready to take the field. Very soon, the
other divisions were ready, and the word of command
was given. Division A moved first, followed closely by
the others in alphabetical order. This was in July.
The horses had regained their wonted strength, and
showed anxiety for action. As we were going along,
some field ^manoeuvres were attempted ; not very success-
fully, I must say, but how could it be otherwise, — men
and horses cannot be well trained in three months' time
for military service. Notwithstanding some defects, we
did very well, and at all events we were soldiers at heart,
which is the best proficiency for men in warfare. We ex-
pected to have to fight, and were ready to do it to the
best of our ability. The following dialogue will give an
idea of the state of our feelings at that moment. " Did
you take any part in the Franco-German war ? " said a
constable at my side. " No, indeed," I replied, " this is my
first experience in warfare." " So it is with me," said he,
' I long to see if the Indians have as good hands and
eyes for warfare as the Canadians. It is going to be hot
work, I fan™y, for I hear the Sioux are well equipped
and are good horsemen."

Being by this time two or three miles from the camp,
in the open prairie, the command to deploy was given. I
expected, at any moment, to see Indians, as I had read of
them in the novels, springing from the grass with their
war-whoops, and charging us with their tomahawks ; but.
I was disappointed in my expectations. We hunted the
plain for miles around until sun-set, without the appear-

ing
ma

Six Years in the Canadian North-West 39

ance of Indians, when, to the great dissatisfaction of all,
tho order was given to return to camp.

This turning out was only a sham ; the Commissioner,
thinking that there were still a few cowards in our ranks,
and wishing to get rid of them, spread the news himself
that the Sioux were in the neighbourhood, and in a state of
hostility. But he was agreeably disappointed in find-
ing that there was not a coward among us, and that every
man, while knowing that he could safely get away, re-
mained at his post.

CHAPTER IV.

Departure of Mounted Police from Dufferin— Desertion of Inspector Richer
— Beginning of Hardships — The Mounted Police Transformed into Cart-
drivers — A Modem Diogenes — Camping on Souris River— The Tr<J -i
Sub^constable P. — State of the Mounted Police on their arrival at Rcf
Percde.

IN the afternoon of the 8th of July, the organisation
being completed, the Mounted Police started from
Dutferin directing their march towards Roche Percde,
which lies 270 miles west, where sub-Inspector S. from
Fort Ellice was to meet us with fresh horses. Division A
with thirteen waggons marched first, closely followed by
the other divisions in regular order. In front, and on the
flanks of the column rode a guard of twenty raen charged
to open the march, and to prevent surprises. Behind the
last division, came the half-breeds with their Red River
carts, and, at some distance behind them, a herd of cattle,
driven by the rear guard. This was the first column of
troops that ever marched on the plains of the North-West.
A splendid sight ; but destined to last but a short time.

We camped that night about three miles from Dufierin.
A short journey indeed, but nevei-theless long enough for
the horses which, as I said before, were not well used to
harness, and had to draw overloaded waggons. The con-

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

ctor Bicher
I into Cart-
be Tr'w -i
U at lior :

misaiion
ted from
J Percde,
r S. from
ivision A
lowed by
Qd on the

I charged
ehind the
Led River
of cattle,
lolumn of
[•th-West.
t time.
Dufferin.
lough for

II used to
The con-

duct of Colonel French, in regard to the final organiza-
tion of the company at Dufferin, was far from being ap-
proved by his subordinate officers ; an outburst of
revolt was then expiected, and the expected revolt occurred
the next morning before setting out.

The Commissioner had ordered the Inspectors to provide
every morning a necessary number of horses for the
waggons. Inspector B icher of F Division, being well fl.ware
that, if these commands were obeyed, the men would soon
be on foot, was not in a hurry to produce the number of
horses required, ^nd ?ii altercation ensued between him
and Colonel French. But notwithstanding his many
faults, the Commissioner was a, well disciplined and ex-
perienced officer, and, knowing well that if this dis-
obedience remained unpunished he would soon have to
face revolts of a more serious character, he put Inspector
Richer under arrest. This we did not expect he would
dara to do, as this officer was known to be well backed
by lu m of high standing in the Government. In spite of
hi;-; iirrest, Inspector Richer left at once for Dufferin,
tit/ catening, as soon as he should arrive in Ottawa, to
at^ I?' 'nt the government with the real state of the
Mounted Police.

On the morning of the third day, we came in view of

Lhe vast plain which is bounded on the west by what is

called the Pembina Mountains, — in reality a range of hills,

not more than forty to fifty feet above the level of the

T>laiu3. As no wood could be found in the neighbourhood ,

the Ooramissioner ordered us to take with us a sufficient
8

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

quantity of wood to last two days. Proceeding on our
way, we at times came across large quantities of buffalo
bones, which gave us an idea of the immense slaughter of
these animals tliat must have occurred there in former
years, and was then being carried on in the neighbour-
hood of the Rocky Mountains, to which locality they had
been drivcL ^^^ ^ plain, which we were crossing, although
very fertile, \. at that time almost entirely without
water, the meadow lands, usually covered with a few
inches, being dried up. Happily, at night, we came to
one of these meadows, the centre of which contained
enough water, such as it was, to keep the men from suf-
fering with thirst, but the horses and cattle had to do
without. I say such as it was, — for after being taken
from the hole dug to receive it, and strained, it was still
as black as ink.

The next morning at eleven o'clock, we reached Pem-
bina Mountain Depot, where we found water in abun-
dance. The last two days had been hard enough on the
men, but still more so on the horses and cattle which had
suffered greatly from want of water. We naturally ex-
pected to rest there a day or two ; but the Commissioner
decided that the march should be resumed immediately
after dinner. Probably he compared himself to conquerors
like Alexander and Caesar, and wanted to leave in the
shade the marches of these illustrious men.

"We reached the banks of the Pembina river, at this
place only about fifteen feet wide. A bridge had been
thrown across it some years before, but it was now in

Six Years in the Canadian North- West

our

igh

such a wretched condition, we thought it unsafe to cross
before the bridge was re-constructed. A party of men
was therefore detailed to do this work, and also, to im-
prove the road up the opposite bank. This done, we
crossed the river in the evening, and in ascending the
bank, we found the oxen of great service. Taking a yoke
of them in front of the horses, we would hook the chain
in the end of the waggon-tongue, and with this double
team, take the loads up the steep bank very easily. At
sunset, we camped about five miles further on. During
the whole night, our half-breeds kept coming into camp
with their carts. This shows the difficulty they encoun-
tered in climbing the river bank.

In my travels in the North- West, I noticed that even
the smallest streams have very high banks, which seems
to me to prove that they once carried a much greater
quantity of water than they now do. In rivers, like
the Pembina, which do not rise among mountains, covered
with eternal snows, these large bodies of water could only
be produced by very abundant rains. But as such abun-
dant rains are only to be met with in very warm coun-
tries, we would naturally conclude that there has been a
time when the climate in that section was much more
mild than it is now.

Hitherto we had passed through plains that were very
fertile ; but we were now in a region that was quite the
contrary, and the oats, which we had brought with us,
being now consumed, our horses were left in a sad plight
for want of sufficient provender. Besides this, many of

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

the horses were already tired out, and we therefore ex-
pected we would rest at least two or three days, to give
them time to recruit. But Colonel French not only gave
orders that wc should Qiarch at once, but inflicted upon
us an indignity which took from us all the pride we felt
in being members of the Mounted Police. The reason
why the half-breeds were so late in reaching camp every
night, was that each of them had to drive four carts ; and
in order to remedy this, the Commissioner gave orders
that each division should provide a certain number of
men to assist them. It is useless to mention how we
greeted such an order, and I believe had we not been a
long distance from any settlement, the Colonel would
have had to make the expedition alone. What military
commander, who respects his men and wants to be re-
spected by theii-, would have thought (I do not say dare)
to have placed them on the same footing as those who
worked for mercenary m( tives. The members of the
Mounted Police had sworn to keep the British flag un-
stained ; while the half-breeds had only engaged to work
for so many dollars a month. No comparison could, there-
fore, be made between us ; and it was more than discour-
aging, on the morning of the loth to see some of our men,
in their uniforms, driving oxen with sticks. And yet,
notwithstanding my disgust, I could not help being some-
what interested and amused when, the next morning, it
fell to my lot to drive a train of these carts. Being a
new hand at the work, the foreman of the half-breeds very
kindly harnessed my oxen, and arranged them in order

Six Years in the Canadicm North-'West

for starting, the strongest ox in front, the next strongest
tied to the back of the first one's cart, and the weakest
one behind and that tied to the second cart. On starting
we received three biscuits each, on which to make our
noonday meal, it being expected that we could not keep
up with the main column, and be able to take our dinner
with them.

I would here like to describe the noise made by the
carts, but words fail me. It must be heard to be under-
stood. A den of wild beasts cannot be compared with it
in hideousness. Combine all the discordant sounds ever
heard in Ontario and they cannot produce anything so
honid as a train of Red River carts. At each turn of
the wheel, the}'^ run up and down all the notes of the
scale in one continuous screech, without sounding dis-
tinctly any note or giving one harmonious sound. And
this unearthly discord is so loud, that a train of carts,
coming towards you can be heard long before they are
seen. We travelled a long distance that day, and the
waggons going faster than our carts, they were entirely
out of our sight at nightfall ; our oxen being tired out, we
were obliged to camp out of sight of the camp fires of our
comrades; and not only this, but our provisions and
blankets beinor on the wagorons of the main column, we
had to lie down supperless on the bare ground, and in
that manner pass the night.

In such circumstances as these, one appreciates the
society of a man who preserves, through every vicissitude
of life, his habitual philosophy. Among us was one

Six Years in tJie Canadian North- West.

whose indifference to hardship contrasted greatly with
the dissatisfaction and grumbling of his companions.
" My friends," said he at last, " you do nothing but grum-
ble, now against the Government, and then the Com-
missioner, but you should remember we were prepared
for this before leaving Toronto, If my memory serves
me rightly, the Colonel told us then that wo might at
times, be without food for two or three days at a time, and
have to camp on the open prairie with nothing but the
canopy of heaven for covering ; and he added that if any
of us were not willing to face those hardships and
probably many others, we might return to our homes.
Of what do you complain then ? " " We complain," said
one more touchy than the rest, " of having to drive ox-
carts." " Do you think then," replied our modem
Diogenes, " that it is not preferable to perform the duties
of an ox-driver than to sleep in the open air, and be
several days without food ? If you do, I am not of your
opinion." " It seems to me," said I, " that you see only
one side of the question ; you forget that if the Sioux
were in the neighbourhood, they could easily get the
better of us, and take possession of the oxen aud carts
that are scattered along the road for several miles." " I
don't forget that either," said he, " but on hearing the
Commissioner speak about the privations to be endured
should we not have expected dangers as well, and all the
more inevitable too since we were to travel through
Indian Territories ! Let us hope that we shall not find
ourselves in more critical circumstances than at present."

Six Years in tlie Caimdian Noith-Wcst.

These judicious observations had the effect of reconcil-
ing us to our situation, if one can judge from the sonorous
snores which followed. For my part, the remembrance
of our proximity to the Sioux Territory, and especially
the late massacres perpetrated by those savages, prevented
me from sleeping. But at that season of the year a night
quickly passes, and when morning dawned, seeing that
no one wished to rise, I harnessed my oxen and set out
again, hoping to overtake the main column before they
broke up camp. But my designs were frustrated, and I
found the camp deserted, the want of water having
obliged them to set out early. Increasing the pace of my
oxen I continued to advance, and then began in reality
the hardships of privation. I was all day consumed by
a thii-st that all the ravines which I crossed could not
quench. When night came two of my oxen were tired
out. What was I to do ? Beat them unmercifully as
the half-breeds did till they would fall ? I had not sunk
to such a degree of cruelty. I chose the wisest course,
set them at liberty, and with the third proceeded as fast
as pcr>sible on my journey. About eleven o'clock the
sight of deserted waggons proved that I was not far from
the camp, though I could not as yet see their fires. Very
soon, however, I was arrested by the usual challenge :
" Who comes there ? " "A famished man," I replied, and
the sentry allowed me to pass without further explana-
tion.

They had located their camp in a valley, on the banks
of a small brook. The men were lying around the camp

Six Years in iheTlanadian North-West.

fires, being too fatigued to set up the tents. It mattered
very little to me where I slept, the main point being to
get something to eat from the kettles which remained
near the half -extinguished fires. My search was at first
fruitless, and I visited no less than five divisions before
finding provisions at the sixth. Stealing my way over
the sleeping men, I found a large kettle of cooked meat,
a box of bread, and a kettle of tea. Seated on the ground,
with the meat between my knees, the bread on one side,
and the tea on the other, I made a meal that only a
hearty man, having been two days without food, could
dispose of. In fact, it was nearly daylight when I had
fully satisfied my appetite, and, making my way to my
own division, I climbed into a waggon and was soon fast
asleep.

A little after sunrise the column resumed its march,
notwithstanding the fact that a large number of carts
were still miles behind. Having done more than my
share of ox-driving I was allowed to follow my waggon on
foot, I say on foot, and a large number of the men were
doing the same ; for the Commissioner, on account of the
wretched condition of the horses, had ordered that one of
the two men accompanjdng every waggon should walk
while the other drove ; and, to be certain that his orders
were carried out, the Colonel would ride, once in a while,
from front to rear and back. That morning, as he was
making his fii*st round, he noticed a waggon with only the
driver in sight. He at once rode up and asked the driver
who was his comrade and where he was. " Constable S.,

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

sir," said the driver, " and he is lying inside of the wag-
gon." " What ! " said the Colonel, " a constable the first
to break my commands ! Come down at once," said he to
Constable S., " or I will put you under arrest," " I don't
care what you do," answered Constable S., " I joined a
mounted police and not &foot one, and, as I don't feel very
well to-day, I must ride on something, a horse or a wag-
gon, I don't care which." Upon this rebuke, the Commis-
sioner rode away ; a proof that he was fast losing his in-
riuence over the men.

In the evening of the following day we reached the
Souris river, a tributary of the Assiniboine. Since Duf-
ferin, it was the most favourable place to camp that we
had met. Wood, water and grass were abundant, and the
Commissioner decided we should remain there two days.
Two reasons rendered this halt necessary : first, many
of the horses were so exhausted that they were unable to
proceed ; and second, because the carts were still far be-
hind, and a great number of them had to be repaired.
Though the next day was Sunday the men were kept
busy, washing themselves and their clothes, and looking
after the horses.

On Monday, the usual monotony of the camp life was dis-
turbed by the report that the Sioux were follow •n'^j us,
though without daring to attack. The originator ol inis re-
port was Sub-constable P., who had been in charge of a
number of sick horses. As he could not travel so fast as t'r e
main body he found himself the day previous to our arrival
at the Souris river, some thirty miles behind, and during

Six Years in the CanadUin Kortli- West.

the (lay one of the sick horses fell to rise no more. What
could he do ? Certainly his orders were to remain there
until some one was sent to his rescue. But then, he was
alone, unprotected and without provisions. So he con-
cluded the best thing to do was to shoot the poor dying
brute, and proceed on his journey. Being well aware
that if he told what he had done the Commissioner would
not only fine him, but make him pay about two hundred
dollars for the horse, he declared with great earnestness
that he had been atuicked by five Sioux, and that, making
a vigorous resistance, he won the day, losing nothing but
one horse which was killed in the fight. Every one was
convinced that his story was a fabrication but nobo'
could prove it.

On Tuesday the whole column resumed the march, the
last of the carts having arrived in camp sometime during
the previous night ; and finally on Friday, the 24th of
July, we arrived at Ex)che Perc^. But what a change
since our departure from Dufferin ! We had set out full
of hope, mounted on excellent horses, accompanied by
waggons carrying our supplies, and followed by carts
laden with the same, but our hopes were doomed to bit-
ter disappointment. No romantic incidents occurred;
no encounter with the Indians and the whiskey-traders,
and on our arrival at Bx)che Perc^e the colunm resembled
a routed army corps. For a distance of several miles the
road was strewed with broken carts, and horses and oxen
overcome with hunger and fatigue. This was the natural
result of the Commissioner's blunder before leaving Dufie-

Six Years in the Canadian N orth-West.

hat
lere
was
■con-

:ing

rin, in ordering us to carry our supplies. During the
whole of Saturday, horses and oxen which had been un-
able to keep up to the column, continued to arrive in a
deplorable condition. Was it in this manner that the
Canadian Government had intended the Mounted Police
to be managed and directed ? Certainly not ! Could
Colonel French have done better than he did ? Certainly
yes ! for although it is always a difficult matter to judge
fairly the conduct of a commander-in-chief, I think I can
safely say, and hope to prove it farther on, that other
officers of our force could have done I etter than he.

CHAPTER V.

Report that the Mounted Police had been Massacred by the Sioux— Roche
Terete— Church Services — The Division of Our Forces.

SATURDAY evening, following our arrival at Roche
Perc^e, we were overtaken by Dr. N. and Con-
stable C. who had left Dufferin a week after we did.
They brought the news that when they left, a report was
in circulation through the Ameiican newspapers, that the
Mounted Police had been exterminated by the Sioux.
This report originated from desei-ters, who had left us at
DufferiD, and, having gone across the lines, had given as
reasons for deserting, that they were badly treated, and
that they did not wish to lose their scalps in the pro-
jected expedition against the whiskey traders. One can
easily conceive that the Americans, who are continually
at war with their own Indians, would have been glad to
see our expedition miscarry. Therefore, the reports of
the deserters were grossly exaggerated by the American
papers which, having summed up the various difficulties
that we would have to overcome, some of them concluded
that we would be unsuccesful, and others that we were
already exterminated. The Canadian public, considering
the suspicious origin of these stories, pifb very little faith

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

in them. But, later on, great uneasiness was felt through
the country, when it became known that the road taken
by the Mounted Police was through Sioux territory,
and along the international boundary. Prayers for us
were said in some Canadian churches, and some leading
minds went so far as to advocate the organization of a
corps of volunteers to avenge us. But this project was
never carried into effect ; for, as soon as we arrived at
Roche Perc^e, the Commissioner sent despatches to the
Government, announcing our arrival there in good health
and spirits.

The column was encamped on the banks of the Souris
River, in a circular valley surrounded on almost every side
by a range of hills some thirty to forty feet in height.
Wood, water and grass were abundant, and coal also could
be gathered on the right bank of the river. The quality
of this coal was tested by our blacksmiths who used it
during our stay there. Although this coal, on account
of its friability, is not likely to be exported any great dis-
tance, it will nevertheless be a great boon for the settlers
in that region, where wood will soon be scarce.

On our right, and about half a mile from the camp,
stood Roche Percee, a pierced rock, as its name indicates.
Seen from a distance, one would take ".t for a statue,
whose arms rested on two adjacent supports. An isolated
rock, in the midst of a plain, will naturally attract the
attention of a traveller : and in company with some of
my comrades, 1 went to visit this one, which is covered
with hieroglyphic characters, indecipherable for us, but

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

doubtlessly representing memorable events that once took
place in that country.

The third day after our arrival being a Sunday, and,
as everybody is aware, the Sabbath day being consecrated
in the British Dominions to rest and prayer, we were
that morning ordered to get ready for Church parade.
This was the first divine service held since our departure
from Dufl'erin, As the Mounted Police was composed of
men belonging to different denominations, and there being
no chaplain attached to the corps, I was wondering who
would act in their stead. But I soon heard that, under
such circumstances, it was the duty of oflRcers to act in
the place of ministers of the gospel. At ten o'clock a.m.
as the six divisions stood ready for orders, Colonel
French, who was an Episcopalian, called fo^ the men that
belonged to his denomination, and Roman Catholics,
Methodist;S, and Presbyterians were called for, in like
manner by officers of their respective creeds. Some de-
nominations held their meetings on the hills, others in
the valley. And it was a grand sight to see 300 men
standing in the wilderness, several hundred miles from
civilization, giving thanks, in different manners, and of-
fering prayer to their Creator. Although several thou-
sand miles separated us from our friends in the other pro-
vinces, our thoughts and hearte were with theirs, and
their prayers and ours were of like nature, and had in
view our preservation and the success of the expedition.

The plan of the campaign furnished to the Commis-
sioner by the Government at the time of our organization

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

was the following : — We were to proceed from Dufferin
as far as the junction of the rivers Bow and Belly, where
the whiskey traders were said to congregate, destroy their
forts and leave in that section a sufficient number of
m en to put an end to the massacres and the whiskey traf-
fic. But, about the time of our departure from Dufferin,
Colonel French received new instructions from the Gov-
ernment, slightly altering the above plan. After demol-
ishing the whiskey traders' forts, half of the column was
to proceed to Ijldmonton, and the other half to retrace
their steps homeward.

The junction of the above rivers, is about 450 miles dis-
tant from Roche Percee ; and between these two localities
lay v£ist plains almost destitute of water, wood and grass.
At that time, there was no cart road connecting Roche
Percee and the junction of these rivers, and the latter place
was almost unknown to even the fui traders. Edmon-
ton is about 200 miles further on from the junction ; and
part of this distance had also to be travelled wiiliout any
road to guide us. Adding the two preceding distances, we
find that half of our corps hr T still to travel about 650
miles before reaching its destination, and the other half
450 miles, and then return homeward.

The three divisions intended for Edmonton, were ex-
pected to take with them all the supplies we had brought
from Dufiierin. Now, if we take into consideration the
critical st>ate to which the horses and oxen had been re-
duced by the journey from Dufferin to Roche Percee, a
distance of only 270 rniles, any one could see that it would

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

be impossible for us to tako our supplies via the junction.
But then how were the three divisions intended for Ed-
monton to be without supplies ? Colonel French was thus
placed in a very awkward predicament. He could now
see plainly the folly of his management in the outset ;
neither horses nor men could be hired at Roche Perc^e,
and even the fresh horses that we expected from Fort
Ellice were not forthcoming ; Sub-inspector S., who was to
have brought them, came himself and reported that he
had been obliged to send the horses he had to Winnipeg
for fresh supplies. Under these circumstances, the Com-
missioner adopted the most unreasonable and incredible
plan that ever originated in any man's brain — placing in
the hands of Inspector Jarvis a dozen good men of his
own division, with instructions to proceed to Edmonton,
via Fort Ellice, with twenty-four waggons, fifty -four carts,
iifty-five of the weakest horses, a large number of oxen,
and a herd of cows and calves. A dozen half-breeds were
also given him to assist in driving the carts ; and besides
the above, he was instructed to take as far as Fort Ellice,
five or six sick men and two or three waggons. As for
myself, although a member of B Division, for some reason
never made kn'^wn to me, I was transferred to Inspector
Jarvis' con'/mand.

Having only sick horses, or horses reduced to mere
skeletons, and considering we were going via Fort Ellice,
and thus would have to travel at least nine hundred miles
before reaching our destination, was it leasonable on the
part of Colonel French, to expect us to reach Edmonton

Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 57

before the coming winter ? For my part, I do not think
he expected for a moment that we would be able to go
any farther than Fort Ellice, a distance of 130 miles from
Roche Perc^e. But if he did, he thereby tacitly acknow-
ledged that Inspector Jarvis was better able than he to
direct the expedition. For travelling 900 miles with
sick horses and heavy waggons was a very different
thing from travelling 270 miles with horses that were at
least in good condition at the outset. But, notwithstand-
ing all these disadvantages, we shall see, later on, how
successfully Inspector Jarvis conducted his party to their
destination.

CHAPTER VI.

Departure of the Main Colnmn from Roche Perc^e— The Templar's Castles
in the Air Vanish— Departure of Our Party for Fort Ellice— A Change
for the Better— The Glorious Death of a Sioux Brave —A Horrible Dream.

ON THE 29th of July, the main column resumed
its march under the command of the Commis-
sioner, and on reaching the plains, they left the inter-
national boundary line, taking a north-western course
towards the junction. We will now leave, for a while,
these men, who were destined to encounter hardships
unsurpassed in the history of man, and we will return to
the little party, under the command of inspector Jarvis,
still encamped at Roche Perc^.

I learned from some of the men that the Apostle
of Temperance was one of our party ; and, wishing to
know what he now thought of the great mission of the
Mounted Police, I was very anxious to see him. But I
had some difticulty in finding him ; nobody could tell me
where he was. Giving up the search, 1 was returning to
my quarters, when seated on a hill that faces Roche
Perc^e, I beheld a member of the Mounted Police who
appeared very much absorbed in thought. I went up to
him, and, sure enough, he was the man I sought. " Well

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

my friend," said I, " I am very glad to hear that you are
going with us to Edmonton." But, seeing that he took
no notice of my remark, J shook him, shouting at this
time : " Ha ! father of the braves, are you asleep." He
lifted up his eyes, giving me a reproachful look, as much
as to say : " how dare you disturb my reveries," and sorry
to have gone so far, I was about to apologize for the
liberty I had taken, when he now seemed to realize that
no offence was intended, for his face assumed a mild
appearance, and, as an answer to my enquiiy, said:
" would to God I had never seen this day." " Why, what
is the matter with you ? " said I. " Why do you ask me
that question ? " said he, " don't you know as well as I ?
Have you not also been detached from the main column,
where glory awaited us, to go, not to Edmonton, for we
can never reach there, but to Fort Ellice, which place we
may reach, but never pass, at least this year '. " " But
then," said I, " if we did not go, other men would Lave to
go in our stead." " All I have to say is this," said he,
" if the corps had been well directed, it would not have
been necessary to send this detatchment to Ellice. All
this is the result of having taken with us our supplies.
Now the evil is without remedy, and if the whiskey
tradeij are as well organized as they are said to be, the
expedition will surely prove a failure." This said, the
templar resumed his thoughtful appearance, heedless of
my presence, I therefore returned to the camp, reflect-
ing on what a change had come over this man in so short
a time. On our first meeting in the cars, he was full of

Six Years in the Canadian NorUi- West.

hope, and possessed a fine appearance ; but now he was
completely discouraged ; his castles in the air had van-
ished, and his person displayed the utmost neglect."
"What is the cause of all this," thought I, and I found
the answer in the mismanagement of our commander-in-
chief.

The day after the main column left for their destina-
tion, we set out for Fort EUice. Before us was the Souris
River which we had to cross. Our horses were too weak
to draw the waggons up the bank, but we had four yoke
of oxen in pretty fair condition, and, hitching them to
the waggons, we were soon safely across. We had to go a
day's journey without a road, but we were fortunate in
having a half-breed who had come from Fort Ellice, as
guide, and resigning ourselves to his direction, we reached
the road in safety.

The country that lies between Roche Perc^e and Fort
EUice is not equal in fertility to the Red River Valley.
Wood and grass are not always plentiful, and water is
also scarce in summer time. To travel in such a country
under these disadvantages and labouring under the un-
favourable circumatances in which we were then, requii-ed
a leader of sound judgment, and great ability. And such
a man we had in Inspector Jarvis. He was as fond of
short marches as Colonel French was of long ones ; and
he was right ; for the proverb, " slow but sure" is always
the safest to follow in long marches. Taking advantage
of the best camping places to be found, Inspector Jarvis
vould order a halt, fo>ar or five times a day in order to

Six Years in V>3, Canadian North-West.

give the horses and oxen time to feed. And the result of
such a course was soon felt ; the animals began to recover
i-apidly, and even most of the sick men were soon able to
resume their duties. I must add that since we were de-
tatched from the main column, we were living together
like a family. No more of this quasi-discipline ; no more
days without food. We performed our duties not only
for our country's sake, but to please our commander.
Every heart was beating for Inspector Jarvis, and if he
had asked us to follow him, even to the North Pole, not
one of us would have refused.

After a week's march, we reached Pipestone Creek
whose banks are high and steep. The crossing presented
serious difficulties ; but officers and men worked so man-
fully, that in two hours, waggons and carts were on the
other side. — We were then within two davs march of
Fort Ellice.

After travelling a few miles from the creek, I saw, on
the left hand side of the road, something resembling a
tombstone, surrounded by a fence. I enquired of our
guide what it waa " What you see," said he, " is the
grave of a famous Sioux warrior. His grandfather and
his father, for a long time, waged war with the United
States. For some time, they were victorious ; but, at
length, they and their tribe were completely overcome,
and, with the exception of the children who were too
young to take any part in the war, not one of the trib^
was left alive.

Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West.

" The warrior whose grave you see was then but a child.
He resolved to die ; he could not survive the ruin of his
family. Suicide was vrithin his reach, but that unnatural
feature of civilization is unknown among the Indians.
He determined to die fighting, but, as his tender years
would not allow him to carry arms, on the ashes of his
forefathers, he swore eternal enmity to the American
troops, and to fight them as soon as he would be old
enough to do so. That time came at last. He summoned
to a meeting, the few survivors of his tribe, and, in a val-
iant speech, recalled to their minds the evils inflicted on
their forefathers and their glorious resistance. ' For my
part,' said he at the conclusion of his harangue, ' I am
resolved to die, but to die in avenging our tribe and my
family.' This patriotic address received unanimous ap-
proval. The hearers resolved to share the fortunes of the
speaker and elected him chief. And they had not long
to wait before meeting a company of American soldiers
whom they attacked with great impetuosity. Their un-
foreseen attack disconcerted the soldiers at first, but see-
ing ver)'^ soon the small number they had to deal with,
they manfully stood their ground, and their discipline
soon gave them the advantage. At last, every Indian
succumbed but the chief, who stood at the entrance of a
forest, with his back to a tree, fighting with that energy
that only despair can give. A circle of steel is gradually
surrounding him ; he sees now that he is going to be
taken prisoner, and this is what he dreads, — not death.
Flight is still possible, and quickly gathering the arrows

Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West

of the dead warriors lying around him, he retreated into
the forest, resolved on prolonging the unequal contest.
He let fly his arrows, which never miased their mark,
but at last, he was driven out of the wood, and had no
other refuge than the bare plain. The soldiers were re-
duced to two, but these pursued, resolving to avenge the
death of their comrades. After a pursuit of two days,
the Indian hides himself in a small thicket ; with his
bow bent, he is ready to let fly the two arrows which
will give him the victory. But the stratagem is guessed
by the two soldiers who have, by this time, learned to be
careful — crawling through the grass, one of them got
within range, and discharged his rifle. The ball pierced
the breast of the savage who, brandishing his tomahawk,
bounded toward the enemy. But the wound proved to
be mortal, and before reaching his enemy, he fell, to rise
no more. So much courage disarmed the rage of the
soldiers. They lavished their utmost care upon the Sioux
brave, but all in vain, his spirit had already taken its
flight, to join his forefathers in the happy hunting
grounds."

This narrative was related with such earnestness, that
I naturally concluded that the tales written by Cooper
and other novelists, might not be exaggerated. I there-
fore longed to meet some Indians that I might induce
them to relate their heroic actions. My wish was soon
to be gratified, for I learned from our guide that there
were several Sioux families in the neighbourhood of Fort
Ellice, — refugees from the United States. Several years

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

before, these Indians had perpetrated massacres in the
State of Minnesota, and in danger of being taken by the
American soldiers, they had retreated to Canadian terri-
tory where protection was afforded them, and, they were
assured, would be afforded them, as long as they continued
in peace.

As we were now approaching the neighbourhood of
these Indians, Inspector Jarvis recommended the sentries
to be carefully on their watch, and the others to sleep with
their arms loaded. After leaving Roche Perc^, I did not
sleep in the tents with the other men, preferring to sleep
outside, under a waggon or a tree. And that night, after
spreading my blankets under a waggon, I laid down,
placing my loaded carabine on my right side, and my re-
volver on my left. Pondering for a while on the narra-
tive I had heard from the guide, I, at last, went to sleep,
and began to dream. I dreamed that we were encamped
where we were in reality ; that I was under a waggon, and
I saw Indians crawling like snakes through the grass and
coming towards the camp. Taking hold of my carabine,
I tried to rise, but in vain, I could not move. I then at-
tempted to shout, but could ^ve no utterance. I was in
great agony ,which was increasing as the Indians were get-
ting nearer and nearer. Already I could see their painted
faces, their naked breasts, and their heads adorned
with hair and quills. Wh^i within fifty yards of the
camp they suddenly made a bound which was followed
by fearful yells that no pen can describe. Death stared
me in the face. I collected all my strength to rise, and

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

this time succeeded so well, that I fell back senseless to
the ground, having knocked my head against the axle of
the waggon. When my senses returned. I was still lying
on my back, the carabine grasped in my right hand, and
the revolver in my left. Everything was still with the
exception of the horses which were tied to the waggons
and eating the grass we had mowed for them the night
before. TJiis was only a dream, but of such a horrible
nature, I did not care for a recurrence of it.

In the afternoon of the next day, we reached Fort Ellice,
seeing here the first human habitation which we had met
since we left Dufferin. I shall give a brief description of
this place in the following chapter.

CHAPTER VII.

Fort Ellis — Our Departure — The Kegion between Qu'Appelle River and the
South Saskatchewan — Our Arrival at Carleton — The uneven Course of
Love.

FORT Ellice is a Hudson Bay Company's trading j. ost,
situated on the right shore of the Assiniboine
River. It is composed of a few wooden buildings inha-
bited by the Company's employees, and surrounded by
a wooden palisade. For many miles around this fort, the
land is not very fertile, and, at the time of our arrival
there, the grass was very scarce in that immediate neigh-
bourhood. It was therefore deemed necessary to send the
horses and cattle about five miles away where the grass
was plentiful. Around that fort, stood several wigwams
belonging to the tribe above mentioned. But the Indians
were so effeminate, one would never have thought that
they were of the same nation that had a few years before
committed such depredations in the State of Minnesota.
During our stay at Fort Ellice they did nothing but en-
cumber our camp, with their squaws and papooses, and
devour the remains of our meals.

On the 20th of August, after having enjoyed a week's
rest, we resumed our march, leaving some waggons, and a
few of the weakest horses at Fort Ellice. ^e were then

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

about 750 miles distant from Edmonton. Under the cir-
cumstances in which we were, rendered all the more critical
by the approach of winter and the bad state of the road,
one would think it almost impossible for us to reach that
place before winter set in. But the facility with which
we had traversed the distance from Roche Perc^e to Fort
Ellice, led us to hope that, under the direction of Inspector
Jarvis, every obstacle would be surmounted.

Two hours of march brought us to the River Qu'Ap-
pelle, a tributary of the Assiniboine. Here we met with
our former difficulties in crossing rivers and surmounting
them in the same manner. After the crossing was effected,
although it was yet early in the afternoon, the Inspector
decided to advance no further, convinced that a more
favourable place to camp could not be found for several
miles.

After leaving QuAppelle, the only impoiiiant river
which our road would cross, was the South Saskatchewan
from which we were 350 miles distant. On the plains of
the Souris it would have been easy to travel that dis-
tance, but one cannot traverse the region situated between
Qu'Appelle and the South Saskatchewan without encoun-
tering serious difficulties. In summer time, water is hard
to be found, wood is scarce in consequence of prairie
fires, and grass grows plentifully only on the marshy
grounds.

After leaving Fort Elljce, Inspector Jarvis was our guide,
he having been to Edmonton the previous year. And
his knowing the road, and the most favourable places for

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

camping, inspired us with entire confidence in him. In
traversing this somewhat barren region, we sometimes
had to carry with us a sufficient quantity of water to
quench our thii-st, sometimes wood for our fires, and some-
times even both, always camping were grass was most
plentiful.

During our journey the Sioux of Ellice were often the
theme of our conversation. " For Sioux," said a sub con-
stable one day, " they seem to be veiy cowardly." " The
word cowardly is not expressive enough," said the Apostle
of Temperance, " if all the Indians resemble them, I tell
you frankly that I would not be afraid to meet a score of
such braves." As for the half-breeds they were of a dif-
ferent opinion. They declared that their forefathers had
suffered a great deal at the hands of the Sioux, and that
to judge rightly of their character, it was necessary to see
them engaged in a battle.

The most perfect harmony never ceased to prevail in
our ranks, officers and men were equal to the situation,
and felt mutual dependence upon each other. Often
obliged to make forced marches, in order to reach .suitable
camping places, some of us would be left far behind, our
horses giving out, but the men who reached the camping
ground first would hasten back with their teams to help
the others in.

After a two weeks' march we reached Touchwood Hills,
which lay about half-way between Fort Ellice and the
South Saskatch wan. On entering the valley of this
river, the country began to improve very much ; grass

Six years in the Canadian North-West.

especially became abundant and accordingly we marched
more rapidly, looking forward to reaching the banks of
the river, which we succeeded in doing in one week.
Here we camped by the side of a band of Cree Indians
who were going: to hunt buffaloes. A f eny was at our dis-
posal to cross this river, but it being Saturday evening,
we had to wait till Monday before ferrying our horses,
waggons, and carts across. This delay was very annoying
to Inspector Jarvis, for it was then September, and dur-
ing this month a snow storm invariably arises in those
regions, which sometimes lasts for a week. This was
what we dreaded the most on account of the horses which
were exhausted by our long march. By Wednesday
morning we had everything across the river, and were
ready to resume our march.

We were then eighteen miles distant from Fort Carleton,
a Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the north bi-anch
of the Saskatchewan River, which place we hoped to
reach before the storm, and there find shelter for our
horses. But in the afternoon a freezing north-west
wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow with violence,
and it was impossible to go any farther that day. For-
tunately we found a place to camp well sheltered by
woods. The next morning the weather was clear and mag-
nificent, and we set out again for Fort Carleton, which we
reached in the evening. But we had not to wait long for
the storm. The next morning the snow fell in large
Hakes, and we hastened to get the horses into the stables
of the fort. If we had been detained two days later the

\ ■

Six years in tlie Canadian North- West.

storm would have surprised us on the prairie ; we would
have suffered very much and have lost our horses.

At that time, Carleton was composed of the Hudson
Bay Company Fort, five or six houses inhabited by half-
breeds, and a dozen Indian wigwams on the neighbouring
hills. The latter were going to have their " pow-wow"
during our stay ; but as I will have to describe similar
scenes further on in our story, I will omit any further
mention of this one.

During our stay here, nothing further of importance
happened until the moment of our departure, when a ro-
mantic scene took place in our camp. A sub-constable
had fallen in love with an Indian maiden. This did not
at all please the Apostle of Temperance who accosttd me
with intense emotion, saying ; "I can't tolerate such a
scandal. How I repent having enlisted in the Mounted
Police." " What scandal," said I, " I don't understand
you." " Do you not know," said he, that Sub-constable V.
has become enamoured of an Uskinik squaw ? He wants,
at any cost, to take her to Edmonton and marry her. Did
you ever hear of such a disgrace ? " "I don't under-
stand what there is about that to displease you," said I,
*' For my part, I don't see any inconvenience in her coming
with us, if she will agree to be our cook." '* Foolish
man," said the Apostle of Temperance, walking away,
»' you are making a jest of what, to me, is a serious mat-
ter. If he takes her along, I shall go no farther." — and,
in truth, we were all opposed to the project of the un-
happy sub-constable. Approaching the camp I heard

bui
an(
lo^
we
coi
col
at

Six years in the Canadian North-West. 71

bursts of laughter, and, entering, I wiinessed a touching
and somewhat romantic scene. The poor broken-hearted
lover was embracing his fiancee, bidding her a last fare-
well. But alas ! for the constancy of human hearts Sub-
constable V. soon proved the adage : " Hot love is soon
cold," and his cheerful demeanour showed that with him,
at least, *' out of sight" meant " out of mind."

. ^1

CHAPTER VIII.

My First Attempt to Paddle a Canoe — Ditiiculties of the Journey increasing
— Our Arrival at Victoria— Making Corduroy Roada— Our Arrival at Ed-
monton— The yidssitadefl of the Main Colunm D A Constable's Strange
Request —Reaching the Junction, and the Disappointment that followed —
New Orders from the Government— The Forces directed by Colonel
McLeod — Return of the Conuni«sioner to Duff erin.

AFTER the crossing of the North Saskatchewan,
which lasted thijpe days, had been effected, and pre-
parations made for starting the next morning, we dis-
covered that an ox had been left on the opposite shore.
I was the cause of this n^lect, for, two days previous to
crossing of the river, I had been ordered to see that the
ox-teams were safely taken over on the ferry. Therefom
it was without a murmur that I received the order from
Inspector Jarvis, to have the ox secured by daylight.
But a difficulty presented itself. How could I get across
the river which, at that place, is about 350 yards wide ?
It is true there were canoes at my disposal, but I had
never handled a paddle, ao I was in great perplexit^;',
as no time could be lost, for, as I said before, we wanted
to make an early start After thinking for a while v/hat
course to pursue, I remembered hearing one of our half-
breeds say that he had been for a number of years in the
service of the Hudson Bay Company, whose employees

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

it is well known, travel a good deal with boats when
trading with the Indians. So concluding that he could
help me in my difficulty, I went directly to him and pre-
sented my request, which was well received, and he said
that, at any time, he was at my disposal. I, therefore, went
back to my camping quarters, thinking no more about
the difficulty of crossing the river, but of finding the ox
in the morning, which, by that time, might be two or
three miles away. On this account, I passed a sleepless
night ; and getting up at two o'clock in the morning, I
went to wake the half-breed, thinking we had now no
time to spare. But he was too sleepy to be disturbed at
that early hour, and he said that day-light was quite early
enough to start. Money, they say, will do anything in
this world ; I tried it with him, offering him five dollars,
and a blanket besides ; but they had no efiect on him.
Therefore, trusting to my swimming attainments in case
of need, and being a very bright moonlight night, I made
for the river, jumped into the best canoe I could find, and
pushed away from the shore. My bold attempt was good,
80 far as it went, but in a second, the current caught the
bow of the canoe, and I found myself floating rapidly
down stream, notwithstanding my utmost efforts to re-
turn to shore. Nothing daunted, I jumped into the
water, and swam back to terra jirma, pulling the canoe
after me. Early baths of this kind are not in fashion in
the North- West, at this season of the year, but mine was
involuntary. Going to camp, I changed my clothes, and
went down to the river, ready to make another a ttempt
5

Six Ye(ir8 in tfie Canadian NoHh-West.

This time I adopted different tactics. Walking along the
shore and drawing the canoe after me by means of a rope
attached to the bow, I went about half a-mile up stream,
thinking by that means to have more space in order to
reach the landing-place on the opposite shore. Jumping
in the canoe, I again set out, but encountered the same
difficulties as before. Sometimes the bow would be up
stream, sometimes down ; nevertheless, I kept on paddling,
now right, now left, and seeing that I was making some
progress gave me new hope ; and exerting all my strength,
I at last reached the shore about 100 yards above the
landing place.

Securing the canoe to a tree, I at once started to look
for the ox ; but my endeavours were fruitless. And after
rambling about till eight o'clock, I saw from a little hill
where I stood, that our men were setting out from camp.
I therefore concluded that the ox had been found, and re-
turning to my canoe, which I found occupied by two
Indians, I crossed with them, and making my way to the
camping ground which was still occupied by a few half-
breeds, I was informed by them that my conjecture was
right, and that the ox had been found among the cart-
oxen which had been brought over late in the evening.

The country on the leftside of the North Saskatchewan,
lying betw^n Carleton and Edmonton, is of a very dif-
ferent nature from that we had just left. Between Qu'Ap-
pelle River and Carleton, the road was dry ; but in the re-
gion we had just entered, on account of the rains having
been unusually abundant that summer, the smallest

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

rivulets were increased to large streams, and the road, in
many places, was covered with large pools of water. In
these, our waggons would sometimes sink to the axles,
and it required two or three ox-teams to each load to drag
them through. To add to our calamity, the grass had
lost its greenness by the frost, which had immediately fol-
lowed the snow-storm we had experienced at Carleton.

Foreseeing these diflSculties we had, it is true, purchased
.•some barley at Carleton, to take with us for the use of
our horses ; but they, not being strong enough to digest
such strong food, having lived on grass alone, while tra-
velling from the Pembina River to Carleton, were ren-
dered ill by this diet : and some of them died. We thus
had to feed the barley very sparely, and the result was
that every day some of the horses would fall from hun-
ger and fatigue. We would stop and raise them to their
feet by means of poles passed beneath them, and, incred-
ible as it may appear, I have seen those horses put im-
mediately to work and travel on five or six miles far-
ther.

After passing Carleton, the first station on our road
was Fort Pitt, a Hudson Bay Company trading post on
the North Saskatchewan. The thought of again meeting
a human habitation raised our spirits, but we were soon
to be disappointed in our expectations; for, when but a few
miles from Fort Pitt, we came to a bifurcation of the road.
The left road was the one we expected to follow ; but the
other was shorter, and again joined the first mentioned a
few mile^ beyond the fort. Inspector Jarvis took th^

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

shortest road, and, when we consider that we were then
in October, we must acknowledge that he was right.

Victoria was then our next station. Our difficul-
ties were increasing daily ; the horses now were but liv-
ing skeletons, and the oxen, which were of a great a.s8ist-
ance to us, were getting weaker every day ; the frost-
killed grass being their only provender. Consequently
our marches gradually became shorter and shorter. But
in our difficulties, officers and men increased their efforts
with redoubled vigour, and, at last. White Creek, about
eighteen miles east of Victoria was reached. In the after-
noon of the next day, some of the strongest teams were
entering Victoria, while the weakest had hardly left
White Creek. But the greatest harmony still reigned
among us, and, ns usual, the first arrived returned to
assist those that had been left behind.

We had still to tmvel about eighty-five miles, on roads
almost impassable for our heavy waggons, before reaching
our destination ; and, therefore, Inspector Jarvis thought
it necessary to leave five or six waggons at Victoria, and
also the cows and calves, hay being scarce at Edmonton
that year. This arrangement enabled him to dispose of
half a dozen of men who were sent forward under the
command of Sub-Inspector Gragnon with orders to make
the roads passable. This was a difficult task, and often re-
quired the co-operation of all. Bridges had to be constinicted
over streams that were not fordable, and trunks of trees
were thrown over mud holes, some of them over a hun-
dred yards long.

Six Years in Die Canadian North-West.

As it w s now near the end of October, and the wea-
ther, especially at night, getting very cold, we were losing
an average of one horse a day. Yet, we would have lost
more, had we not taken the precaution to stable them in
tents at night.

On the 24th of ti as month we crossed Sturgeon Creek,
which lies about twenty miles east of Edmonton, and for
the next two days, we made very little progreas, only
reaching Horse Hills a distance of eight miles. But the
road being good the rest of the distance, the men having
the strongest teams were ordered to press forward as fast
as possible. Thus some of them reached Edmonton that
night, and the next day ; as for myself, thr Apostle of
Temperance and two others, we took charge of the four sick
horses at Horse Hills, and walked the last twelve miles,
each man holding his horse with both hands, one at the
head and another at the shoulders, to keep the poor skel-
etons on their legs. And in this manner, we entered the
gates of , Fort Edmonton in the evening of the 2nd of No-
vember, the observed of all observei-s thereof, who never
expected to see the Mounted Police arrive in such a
wretched state.

We shall now go back to the main column which we
left wending its way towards the junction of the rivers
Bow and Bell3\ As already said, both water and grass
were scarce on the plains that lay between Roche Percde
and the junction, and therefore, it was not long before
many of the horses gave out, and some of them fell to
rise no more. Some of the men also began to lose cour-

Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West.

age, being so disappointed in their expectations. Con-
stable T., especially, lost heart, and one morning applied
for an interview with the Commissioner. He told Colonel
French that he had enlisted in the Mounted Police, think-
ing there was some fighting to be done ; but that so far,
the only enemy they had met was starvation, and there-
fore, he begged to be discharged and allowed to go home.
This request greatly astonished the commander-in-chief,
and no wonder, when we considered that the column was
hundreds of miles from human habitation. At last, Col-
onel French came to the conclusion that the brain of
Constable T. must be affected, and accordingly, sent for
Dr. K. the surgeon. This officer came directly, and asked
what was the matter. " Dr. K.," said the Commissioner,
" I wish you to take charge of Constable T, whose brain, I
fear, is a little affected by the moon." " What ! " ex-
claimed Constable T, " do you take me for a fool, because I
asked for my discharge ? " " What can I think of a
man, who asks me without necessity for it to run to sure
death ? This is what your request amounts to, but such
a request I can never grant ; for, if I did, I should feel
myself responsible for the disastrous results that most in-
evitably would ensue."

The junction was reached about the middle of Septem-
ber. But what a disappointment awaited them ! In-
stead of forts, serving as a refuge to the whiskey tradere,
they found only two or three roofless and deserted log
shanties. On the approach of the column, the inmates of
these huts had dismantled them, an<l fled to Uncle Sam's

Six Years in tlie Canadian North- West.

Dominions, but only to return to their ignoble traffic, as
soon as the Mounted Police should have retired.

The main object of the cam{>aign having resulted in a
fizzle, A. and B. divisions were ordered to set out for Ed-
monton. But after a half day's march, it was deemed im-
possible for the two div^isions to reach there, on account
of the weak state of the horses. Therefore, the Commis-
sioner ordered them back, and with the whole column, he
set out towards the International Boundary, dreading to
be caught on the barren plains by the September snow
storm. As it was, they would have been caught if the
storm had come as early as in the previous year ; and in
that case, both men and horses must have miserably per-
ished ; the former from cold, having only one blanket
each ; the latter from both cold and hunger.

But though the column had escaped the effect of the
usual snow-storm, Colonel French was still in a great dif-
ficulty, the horses being unable to travel all the way back.
But his mind was a measure set at rest at last by or-
ders received from the Covemment to leave the main part
of his forces in that region, if he thought it was proper
to do so. The result was, that A. B. C. and F. divisions
were left there under the command of Colonel McLeod,
the assistant commissioner. Almost immediately a marked
change for the better was visible ; for this oflScer, a man
of giant abilities, proved himself equal to the occasion.
He at once procured from Fort Benton, U. S., a good sup-
ply of food and clothing for his men, who were reduced to
mere skeletonsj'and were almost destitute of both. As for

Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West.

the horses, he sent them to the Sun River Valley, U. S.,
to pass the winter and recruit up for the next summer's
work ; and with his men, he built during the winter the
fort which still bears his name.

As for Colonel French, he purchased some horses from
hunters, whom he came across, and returned homeward
with D and E divisions. It would take many pages of
the book to relate all the hardships and sufferings they
had to endure on their way. But, with clothing in tat-
ters, and most part of the time living on half-rations, they
finally passed Fort Qu'Appelle and reached Fort Pelly,
at which place E division was quartered ; and which, for
some time, became the headquarters of the Mounted Police,
in that section of the country. Leaving this place. Colonel
French resumed his march with D division towards
Dufierin, and finally entered that place on the 7th of
November.

Thus ended the campaign of 1874, which had it had for
its theatre the European Continent would not have
wanted for writers to relate its vicissitudes and perils ; yet
Canadians hardly remember that eight yeai-s ago 300
volunteers offered their service to pluck from barbarism a
country whi^h, in a few years, is destined to occupy an
important position on the American continent.

CH/ PTER IX.

Etlraonton in 1874— My Journey to the riainB— A New Motlo of Travo'Mng
—My First Experience in Camping Out in Winter -My Arrival at Butfalo
Lake -A Bold Hunter— An Indian Camp on Red Deer River— An
Indian Dance or Pow-Wow.

EDMONTON in 1874 was composed of only the Hud-
son Bay Company's fort, a Methodist church, and a
few houses scattered along the banks of the river. As
there were no houses to receive us, and the severity of
the winter would not permit of any being built. Inspector
Jarvis rented apartments within the fort itself, and thus
provided shelter for the detachment.

The forts in the North- West Territories are far from
being ecMial in solidity to those in more civilized countries.
Fort Edmonton, with which we arc at present concerned,
consists of a palisade some twenty feet high, formed of
hewn posts. At the corners of this enclosure are tur-
rets, through the loop-holes of wliich can be seen the
juuzzles of the guns. And strange as it may appear, these
slight fortifications have ever sufficed to keep at a i"e-
spcctful distance, even the Blackfeet Indians, so well re-
nowned in the military annals of the United States, by
the numerous massacres of which they were the authors.

Within the palisade, are situated the storehouse where

Six Years in the Canad'wn Korth-West.

In-^lians exchange their fui-s for goods; and three parallel
rows of cottages provided for the accommodation of the
company's employees complete the fort. It was in these
cottages that we were installed and passed the winter.

To the excitement and toil of the expedition was to
succeed a monotonous and sedentary life. All we had to
do was to look after the horses, and even that slight ex-
ercise grew less and less by d(5grees as the most of them
died during the winter.

I need hardly say that this inaction was very irksome
to me; for when 1 enlisted, it was my intention to test
the accuracy of the accounts of the Indians given by
novelists, and to explore those regions hitherto unknown
to any but the native inhabitants. There were a few
Indians near Fort Edmonton, and also at Ellice and Car-
leton ; but these seemed so degenerated that I resolved
a8 H/>on as possible to carry out my original intention, and
take H f/)ur through the plains stretching away t« the
south of Edmonton, where the Indians were then said
to be hunting the buffalo, and where I expected to find
them in that perft!ctly wild and fearless state described by
novelists, and pictured in my vivid imagination. I had
also another motive for deciding to undertake the jour-
ney. Having heard that the buffaloes were hunted to
such an extent that they would soon be exterminated, I
diMired to see them in their natural state while it re-
mained in my power to do so. But the m inter being
very severe, ! was obliged to defer jny journey until

March.

Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat.

As it is customary in these regions to travel with doga
in the winter season, I resolved to adopt this mode of
travelling myself ; and to say the least of it, this mode
had for me the charm of novelty.

Accordingly, on the 5th of March, I set out with three
dogs harnessed to a sled, and took the road leading to
J3ufFalo Lake, as it was in that direction the buffaloes
were said to roam. I soon found that dogs travel very
well when driven by their master, but if a stranger under-
takes to drive them, they not only refuse to advance, but
they show their teeth in a very significant manner. XLi^

half-breed from whom I hired the team acco^Q^jiiwcp;;,*) a
short distance, and then, after <i;n'mg jii«; the necessary in-
structions, he returned to Edmonton. But the dogs soon
porceiving that their master was no longer present, stop-
ped, and notwithstanding my urgings, would go no fur-
ther. Of course, I would not yield to their caprices, but,
following the advice of their owner, I fastened them
firmly to a tree, and beat tliem unmercifully. I trust the
reader will believe me when I say that it was very pain-
ful to me to be obliged to resort to such cruelty, but as far
I know, it was the only means of making them go. At
all events, the plan succeeded ; for, no sooner, were they
releaseil than off they went with the speed of the win<l.
At riight-fall, I was overUiken by a half-breed who also
was going to Buffalo Lake. He proposed that we should
cam]) together, to which I willingly agreed ; for, as
nciither of us had a tent, I was curious to know how my
new acquaintance wouM prejiare to pass the night. Al

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

though it was March, there was a foot of snow on the
ground, and the thermometer often fell to 22° below zero.
But my companion was fertile in expedients. While I
was cutting some fire wood, he cleared off the snow from
the spot chosen for the camp, using a tin plate, as a
shovel ; and a few minutes later we were melting snow to
make tea and cooking some meat. The meal over, we
made a large fire intended to last till morning, by the
side" of which we spread our blankets, and lay down to
sleep. On awaking in the morning, I found my hair
covered with hoar frost, but that had not hindered me
from passing a very agi'eeable night.

After breakfast, we continued our journey, and soon
came in sight of the Peace Hills. Not knowing why they
were so named, I enquired of my companion. He said :
"!rhe banks of Battle River, which we shall soon reach,
were formerly the site of a bloody battle between the
Blackfeet Indians and the Crees ; and the latter being
victoiious, the Blackfeet sued for peace which was con-
cluded with great ceremony on those hills.' '

My companion, who was better equipped than I, and
who wished to reach Buffalo Lake that same day, set out
in advance. As for myself, nothing obliged me to travel
fast, so I travelled on quietly, and camped that night on
the ^hores of Rftd Deer Lake.

Tlie lesson taught me by the half-breed was not lost.
In a few moments, I had a large fire blazing, and, after
pre})aring and partaking of supper, as on the ])revious
j^jight, I spread my blanket and soon fell into a profound

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

aleep. During the night, however, the wolves, which are
very numerous in that neighbourhood, awakened ine with
their doleful howls. In the spring these animals are so
famished with hunger that they attack and sometimes
devour even horses, if kit outside. And fearing an at-
tack I hastened to rekindle my fire, which alone could
keep them at a safe distance. For even had I been armed>
(which I was not, having been advised to cairy no arms
with me, in order to inspire the Indians with confidence),
J should not have been able to withstand their attack
without the aid of fire.

In the afternoon of the next day, I arrived at Buffalo
Lake (so named on account of its forir being similar to
that of a buffalo) having travelled one hundred miles
from Edmonton. On the shores of the lake was a vil-
lage inhabited by Indians and half-breeds who were hunt-
ing the buffalo. The half-breed who preceded mo had ap-
prised them of my coming ; ho a large party came out to
meet me, each contending for the honour of entertaining
an envoy of the Canadian Government.

Learning that I had come to see the buffaloes, the
half-breeds assured me that they were to be found about
sixty miles further south, and that it would be quite ea.sy
to satisfy my curiosity. So the following day, notwith-
standing their friendly endeavours to detain me, I set out
in the direction of a Cree camp situated in the valley of
Red Deer River.

Before leaving Edmonton, I learned that stray buffa-
loes, separated from the herd, were exceedingly fierce,

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

and dangerous, and was advised if I met any such, to
avoid them ; and the same advice was given me by my
friendly entertainers of the previous niglit. To impress
this fact on my mind, one related the story of a hunter
who would never hunt on horseback ; and one day, meet-
ing with a buffalo bull, he fire<l at and wounded him, but
not severely enough to hinder him from turning upon
him. Knowing that flight could not save him from death,
the hunter threw himself flat on his face, and this strata-
gem saved him ; for the horns of the buffalo are so curved
and divergent, that a man so lying i? out of their reach.

That afternoon my dogs suddenly stopped ; and look-
ing round for the cause, I was not a little surprised to
see nine large bufialoes come out of a thicket and plant
themselves before me, not in the least frightened at my
presence. Satisfying themselves with a few moments' in-
spection of my appearance, they trotted off, leaving me
to pursue my journey.

The next day, I arrived at the camp, at the entrance of
which, I met an Indian who said to me in the Cree lan-
guage, " my brother, the soldier, is welcome." With the
Indians, any man clothed in uniform is a soldier. I asked
him to condact me to the wigwam of a fur-trader
whom I had previously met, and whom 1 knew to be in
the camp. Arriving there, tlie wigwam of my host was
besieged by a large number of warriors, eager to get a
glance at the Simganls (soldier) who had come to meet
them. The Indian chief Sweet Grass) accompanied by
his counsellor and petty chiefs, came also to bid me wel-

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

come, and to invite me to a pow-wow (dance) which he
was going to give that evening in my honour.

As a Government functionary, and besides being desir-
ous of observing Indian habits closely, I thought it well
to accept the invitation. Accordingly, after supper, ac-
companied by my host who acted both as guide and inter-
preter, I directed my steps towards the wigwam where
the Council was sitting. The chief and his warriors were
already assembled, and by the side of the chief a seat of
fura was placed, intended for my occupation. Three In-
dians, each furnished with a kind of tambourine and a
drum-stick, were only awaiting my arrival to strike up
the music for the dance. As soon as I was seated, the
squaws, old and young, entered, and the pam-pam began.
And such a pantomime ! how shall I describe it ? Such
shaking and balancing of the head, contortions of the face
and body, such violent and uncouth movements of the
arms and legs accompanied with a kind of song, inter-
spersed with most inhuman shouts, were surely never
heard and seen outside of an Indian wigwam.

As the dcnce went on a young Uskinik squaw ap-
proached me, and by a sign asked me to dance with her.
Here was an unlooked-for turn in events. To dance as
the whites do is all very well, but to dance after the Indi-
an fa.shion above described, was, in my opinion, altogether
too much of a good thing. But what was to be done ?
All eyes were fixed upon me, seemingly anxious to know
if I would dare to refuse ; for truly my manner must have
indicated that I felt reluctant to accept the proffered

Six Years in five Canadian NoHh-West.

honour. But, remembering that a refusal to dance was
looked upon as an insult, I got up and taking the hand of
the Uskinik squaw, did my best to imitate the ludicrous
motions I had M-itnassed by the others. This so pleased
them that the shouts and laughter was increased to a
perfect uproar, and when I sat down l)oth the chief and
his warriors came to congratulate me upon my successful
debut

Tea is a favourite beverage with the Indians, and on
this occasion, a great quantity had been prepared. My
partner in the dance seemed to look upon my wants as
her especial care, and brought a saucepan full, saying :
" Miwassin, Muskakee," (here is some good medicine,)
which I took, expecting to drink ordinary tea. But when
I had tasted it I felt as if I had swallowed a burning coal.
WTiat had been put into the tea to make it so strong ?
This was a question to which I could then find no answer,
but I afterwards learned that it was tobacco, and that the
Indians were in the habit of brewing the weed with their
tea on special occasions of rejoicing to make it intoxicat-
ing. I feared, at first, that they wanted to poison me,
but seeing that al' the others drank freely of it, I did the
same, determined not to be outdone by any of them.
About eleven o'clock I retired with my host, the fur-
trader, to his wigwam ; but before going I presented the
Indians with a jx>und of tea, with which addition to their
stock of stimulants, they kept up their amusements until
morning.

CHAPTER X.

An Unexpected Propoaal— On the Koad Again— A Disagreement — Hunting
the Bu£Falo — Disappearance of my Guides — Visit to Another Camp— A
Council of Warriors— A Peculiar Feast— On my Return — Frozen Ears —
Paternal Anxiety— The Indian Doctor— Return to Buffalo Lake— Visit
to the Cree Indian Headquarters— The Indian Conjuror's Account of the
Creation of the World— My Return to Edmonton and Kind jfleception

ON the following morning, I was about to walk out
to take a view of the surroundings of the camp,
when I saw the Indian Chief coming towards me, leading
by the hand the young Uskinik squaw, my partner of the
previous night, and followed by the counsellor and the
petty chiefs. Of course I was somewhat curious to know
what^could be the object of this early morning visit ; and
to my sorrow, I soon learned what it was. Without utter-
ing a word, the Indians walked into the wigwam and sat
down. Then the chief took out a pipe and smoking a
few minutes, passed it to another who followed bis ex-
ample, and so on, till all had smoked the pipe of peace.
This done, the counsellor arose, and began to speak with
remarkable vehemence and volubility. I could understand
nothing of what he said but •' Uskinik squaw " which
he often repeated, pointing at the same time, towards the

young girl. But from the countenance of my host, which
6

Six Years in the Canadian North- West

grew more and more gloomy as the speaker went on, and
from his occ&sional glances at me, I could understand that
this discourse foreboded me no good. When the counsel-
lor had ceased to speak, my host told me that the chief,
as a proof and pledge of his pacific sentiments towards
the whites, had resolved to give his daughter to the white
man whom he considered mast worthy of that honour,
and that it was upon me his choice had fallen, and he
now brought her to me, hoping I would fully appreciate
the honour he wished to confer upon me. Honour in-
deed ! I was terrified. My first reflections were regrets,
that I had been foolish enough to venture among the In-
dians alone, and then, how to safely get rid of that honour.
To refuse, would bring upon me imprisonment and tor-
ture, perhaps death. To marry, and desert her, I would
not. To marry and live with her would be worse than
death. What was I to do ? I could see no way out of
my difficulty, but to appear to acquiesce, that I might
gain time to get away from them. So, resolving^pon
this course, I charged my host to say to the chief, that
being neither a great warrior, nor a mighty hunter, I waw
far from expecting so great an honour ; but, if he abso-
lutely insisted on having me for his son-in-law, I begged
for a delay of a few days in order to give my friends at
Edmonton time to come and witness the wedding, adding
that it was the custom among the whites, to invite many
guests and to make great preparations for such an impor-
tant event. My answer not only seemed to satisfy, but
to greatly^'please the old chief; and, considering the af-

thal

froi

the

Six Years in tJve Canadian North- West.

fair settled, he arose, and with his followers retired.
Congratulating myself on having escaped from such a
dilemma, and for having succeeded in gaining the above
respite, I felt sure of escaping them altogether.

When I had been there three days, some half-breeds ar-
rived who were going buffalo himting, and I set out with
them. We soon came across fresh buffalo tracks, but
they were so few that we thought it not worth our while
to follow. So, proceeding, we reached the banks of Red
Deer River about noon, and crossing, two divergent roads
lay before us. My companions deliberated which one to
take, but opinions were divided, words ended in contra-
dictions, and from contradictions they were coming to
blows, when I interfered, and said that fighting could do
no good, as blows could not change any man's opinions.
The best way would be, for each man to take the road
which he thought to be the right one. My advice was
followed, and, along with the larger party, I took the
road to the right, and which led us to a Cree camp, at
which we arrived at night-fall. These Indians had been
apprised of my coming and of the object of my visit ;
they therefore came forth to meet me, bidding me wel-
come, and soon had me quartered in the wigwam of the
chief, who gave a dance in honour of my arrival, similar
to the one described above.

At dawn the next morning, an Indian informed me
that he had seen a numerous herd of buffaloes only a mile
from the camp, and that a party was going out to hunt
them.j ^This was an opportunity too good to be last, and

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Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

therefore, having hired a horse and a rifle, I set out with
the hunters. In order to shelter themselves from the icy-
wind, the buffaloes had entered a valley surrounded by-
steep hills with only a narrow passage of ingress and
egress ; and to this passage we were led by one of my tra-
velling companions who conducted the hunt. Here a party
of the hunters was stationed, to prevent the buffaloes from
escaping, and the rest of us were dispersed in an extensive
circle, behind the hills surrounding the valley. These ar-
rangements completed, we ascended the hills, and, at a
given signal, simultaneously attacked the herd, both rear
and flank, the buffaloes rushing with might and main to-
wards the only opening, and we after them. Meeting
the fire of the party in the passage, the buffaloes turned
and charged us. But a well sustained fire brought down
a g^eat number of them ; and only a few succeeded in
climbing the hills and making their escape.

The hunt ended, we set to work to remove the skins
and cut up the meat. Then, we built a fire, and roasted
what the Indians consider the choicest and most delicate
part of the buffalo, and, after enjoying this to satiety, the
meat and hides were packed on sleds brought by the
squaws for that purpose, and all returned to camp.

Being desirous of visiting the camp of Pichican, a Cree
chief, the next day and not knowing tiie way, I was in a
quandary as to how to accomplish my purpose, when for-
tunately two Indians arrived, who were sent by the Great
Chief Kiskajou (short-tail) ^to the principal chief of the
Blackfeet, and as they were going by the camp I \»i,sihed

Six Years in the Canadian NoHh-West

r.y

to visit, I asked and obtained permission to accompany
them. We set out accordingly but there being no road,
my dogs refused to advance. I was at , a loss to know
what to do, when one of the Indians signed to me to get
out and follow on foot, while he led the way on snow
shoes. Th^s being done, the dogs set out again ; but the
depth of the snow, and the numerous herds of buffaloes
that we encountered, rendered our progress slow and dif-
ficult.

At nightfall, we encamped on the summit of a hill, a
necessary precaution to prevent being trampled under foot
by the buffaloes. In this bleak situation, without shelter
from the wind, I expected to pass a very uncomfortable
night ; but being very tired and having a good fire, I slept
soundly until morning. On rising, my companions were
nowhere to be seen ; and not knowing what direction to
proceed, I was about to retrace my steps to the camp we
had left, when suddenly the Indians emerged from a snow-
bank in which they had buried themselves, to protect
them from the cold. This to me was a new expedient,
but, I must admit, it was a good one. We then had
breakfast, and thus refreshed, we set out again for the
camp of Pichican, which we reached that evening.

My arrival created great surprise among the Indians,
and all the greater since they had never seen a govern-
ment functionary clothed in uniform. The Indians who
accompanied me were assailed with innumerable ques-
tions about me, and the chief summoned a council for the
following day and requested me to attend. At the ap-

Six Years in the Canadian N'orth-West

pointed hour, I repaired to the council wigwam, and met
at the door a young Indian, who said to me in English :
"My brother is expected," and then conducted me to a
seat on the right hand of the chief. Being astonished to
hear an Indian speak English, I enquired where he had
learned the language, when he told me that he had spent
two years in college at Montreal, but becoming home-sick,
he had returned to bis tribe, notwithstanding the entreat-
ies of the missionary who had taken charge of his educa-
tion.

In the wigwam were assembled about fifty warriors who
maintained a profound and gloomy silence which was at
length broken by the chief, who, in a solenm tone, asked
me the object of my visit. I answered that I had come
to assure myself of the correctness of the information
concerning the Indians, which I had collected from differ-
ent sources, adding, that I belonged to a band of white
warriors, commissioned to protect the Indians against
their enemies. My reply was in every way satisfactory,
and immediately afterwards an In(iirn entered, bearing
the pipe (calumet) of peace. Having filled it with to-
bacco and lighted it, he handed it to the chief, who, be-
fore smoking, turned the pipe towards the four points of
the compass, to show that he was at peace with all man-
kind. Then taking a few draws, he passed the pipe to
me. I followed his example, and when the calumet had
made the tour of the assembly, two squaws entered carry-
ing a pot of tea and a kettle of very young buffalo veal,
prepared with a kind of sauce. This dish the Indians

Six Years in the Canadian NoHh- West.

consider a great delicacy ; but to my mind it was so ob-
jectionably delicate, that had I not been afraid of dis-
pleasing my entertainers, I should have abstained from
taking any part of the feast.

When all was ready everyone stood while the chief
said grace, which was repeated by all the warriors. This
was another surprise to me, but I afterwards learned that
this tribe had become converts to Christianity, that the
chief acted as pastor to his tribe, and that, as a tribe,
they were noted for their honesty and good behaviour.

The next day (after visiting the abattoir, a kind of
enclosure formed with poles, into which the Indians drove
herds of buffalo, killing the fat ones and letting the thin
ones free), not being disposed to prolong my journey, I
bade adieu to this tribe, and set out on my return, follow-
ing the same road by which we had come. I was now
without a guide, but the track of my sled in the snow
made it easy to follow the trail. Kesolving to reach the
same day the camp where I had joined the buffalo hunt,
I spared neither myself nor the dogs. The day was warm,
but about sunset a cold wind set in, which at first I did
not notice, but whose baleful effects I was soon to experi-
ence, for having become exceedingly warm by the rapidity
of the march, I inadvertently raised my beaver cap, thus
exposing my ears to the freezing wind and they were
bady frozen without my realizing what had taken place.
This will not be at all surprising to those who have been
in a similar situation.

It was midnight when I arrived at the camp. After

:i ' !l

Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat

unharnessing my dogs, I entered the wigwam of the
chief; but had scarcely seated myself near the fire when
I felt a sharp stinging sensation through my ears, and,
for the first time, discovered that they were frozen. I, at
once, resorted to the only efficacious remedy wi&hin my
reach and rubbed them well with snow. But it is useless
to attempt to describe the sufferings which I endured ;
those only who have been in similar circumstances can form
any idea of it.

As the pain became greater every moment, and the
Indians of this tribe could be of no help to me, I set out
with all speed for Edmonton, and on that afternoon ar-
rived at the wigwam of the fur trader in Red River Camp.
The news of my arrival and misfortune spread like wild-
fire, and very soon the wigwam of my host was encum-
bered with visitors who came to sympathize with me ;
and the chief especially was so extremely anxious about
his son-in-law, that he would not leave me for a moment,
and to encourage me, said : " The great medicine man of
the nation will come to-morrow to take care of my son."
In truth, the kind old chief had sent quite a distance for
an Indian doctor, who came the next morning as the
chief had said. He seated himself in silence, with his eyes
on the ground, till the chief addressed him, and told him
why he had sent for him. Approaching me, the doctor
said, " Let my brother shew me his ears," and after a
careful examination added, " If my brother will submit
to my treatment, and follow my directions, he will soon
be healed." Then taking a root from his medicine bag,

Tfl

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

somewhat resembling a beet, he cut some thin slices, and
after chewing theni till they were reduced to a pulp, he
applied it to my ears ; and almost immediately I felt its
soothing effects. As for the plant, from which this root
is produced, I am ignorant of its technical name, and I
doubt if it is even known to botanists. It is called in
the Cree language " Akantamoo," and grows in marshy
places. Its leaves are long and curled, and the root, which
tastes like a'carrot, sometimes attains the length of three
feet.

After a week of assiduous care and attention, my ears
had so much improved 'that, after liberally rewarding my
Doctor, I set out for Edmonton, and reached Buffalo Lake
the next day. There I met some hunters who were going
to the plains, but in a different direction from the one I
had taken ; and, postponing my return to Edmonton, I
joined them.

Leaving my dogs here for a rest, I hired horses for this
journey, and a march of two days brought us to the camp
of the Great Chief Kiskajou. I was soon summoned by
this chief, who, by the voice of his coimsellor, asked me
about the same questions that were asked by the chiefs I
had met before. But though on this occasion I gave ex-
planations as I did^before, Kiskajou did not seem satis-
fied with my answers. Perhaps this was on account of
my having visited his subordinates first.

While at this place, I paid a visit to the conjuror or
"Wise Man" of the tribe, and asked him how he accounted
for the creation of the world. He said " the Great Manito

111

I i

Six Years in the CanacUan North- West.

(Spirit) had made it. Then he made the buffalo. But as
there was no one to kill and eat the buffalo, he took some
black dirt and made the Indian, and by a puff of his
breath, gave him life. Then finding the Indian required
some one to wait upon him, and cook his food, the Great
Manito took a piece of wood and made the squaw."

For some days, the snow had been melting rapidly, and
I therefore thought it prudent to return to Edmonton as
soon as possible. Bidding adieu to the hunter? and In-
dians, I started to Buffalo Lake which I reached in the
afternoon. I remained there till after nightfall, when,
fearing the snow would melt before I reached Edmonton,
I harnessed my dogs, refreshed by their rest, and started.
Travelling the remainder of the night and through the
next day till about three o'clock, I reached Edmonton, hav-
ing covered a distance of one hundred miles with dogs and
fifty miles with horses, without sleeping.

As soon as he heard of my arrival. Inspector Jarvis
came to see me, and was quite surprised to find me safe
and well, as various reports had reached them about
me. First, that I had been frozen to death on the plains ;
then, that I had my feet, ears and nose frozen, and that
amputation had become necessary, etc. But though I was
still suffering from my frozen ears, in consequence of their
having been exposed to the cold after leaving Red Deer
River Camp, I was otherwise as well as I had ever been
in my life.

Before taking this journey to the plains, I had expressed
to Inspector Jarvis a desire to resign my position in the

pr
th
w]
th
th

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

Mounted Police Force ; but the journey had changed my
projects, and I now resolved to more thoroughly study
the Indian character, and that region of the North- West
which they inhabit ; and by retaining my position in
the Mounted Police I could more easily attain my object
than by any other means.

CHAPTER XI.

DiBturbftnce during my Absence and its Causes— Selection of a Site for a New
Fort — Resignation of Colonel French and Appointment of Colonel Mc-
Leod— His Visit to Fort Saskatchewan.— Fort Tail Creek- On the Red
Deer River — Second Journey to the Plains — Importunate Guests— Meet-
ing an Interpreter from Fort Mclieod — A Proof of Half-Breed Brav«y—
Lost I — My Arrival at Pigeon Lake.

ON :ay return from the plains, I found most of the
men under arrest, and one of them suspended.
This was more of the work of the Commissioner, Colonel
French, who, not satisfied with the miseries already in-
flicted upon us, must needs add a further indignity by
writing to Inspector Jarvis to select a site within
twenty miles of Edmonton, on the right bank of the Sas-
katchewan on which he was ordered to build a Fort spa-
cious enough to quarter two divisions ; ordering that the
timber should be secured by tender, but the work of
building should be done by the men, and that done, we
were to be set to work at farming. These instructions
were received during my absence, and I therefore was not
present when they were made known to the men.

I must say here that we were all very much dissatisfied
with having been obliged, at outrageous prices, to purchase
our clothing from the Hudson Bay Company's store with

Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 101

our own money, no provision having been made by the
Commissioner for renewing our stock of clothing when
needed ; and this, with many other circumstances, caused
the men upon receiving the order to go to farming, to re-
ply that they did not enlist in the Mounted Police for
that purpose, and they could have done that kind of work
without coming so far.

Under these circumstances Inspector Jarvis acted as
becomes a gftod officer. He could not disobey the orders
of his superior without dishojuouring himself, and was
therefore obliged to put the refractory men under arrest,
and suspend their leader until the arrival of Colonel
French, who alone had power to try their case and inflict
punishment.

In accordance with instructions received, Inspector Jar-
vis removed his men in the spring of 1875 to a site on
the south bank of the river, eighteen miles from Edmon-
ton, and began at once to build Fort Saskatchewan, prom-
ising the men fifteen cents a day extra pay. But no farm-
ing work was undertaken that summer. There were, at
that time, only two or three temporary cabins in that
neighbourhood, occupied by gold finders ; but since then a
marvellous change has taken place. The country around
Fort Saskatchewan is exceedingly fertile and a great
number of colonists have settled there and successfully
till the soil. On the opposite bank of the river extends a
valley some three miles in length, where elegant houses
are to be seen, about which rises the Roman Catholic
Chapel of Notre Dame de Lourdes; and from three miles

^!llb

102

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

above the chapel to four miles below it, as far as the
mouth of Sturgeon Creek, the banks of the Saskatchewan
are occupied by settlers.

In the fall of 1875, Colonel French, to the great joy of
almost every member of the Mounted Police, resigned his
commission ; and he did so, just in time to save the Qov-
emment the trouble of dismissing him. Colonel M^Leod,
the Assistant Commissioner, whose proficiency we have
already related, was appointed in his place. This officer
came to Fort Saskatchewan in the spring of '76. He
called us all together, released the men under arrest, and
said that he was very sorry when he heard that men who
had so willingly accomplished feats almost unparalleled in
history, had revolted for so trifling* a cause. He had no
desire to excuse the doings of his predecessor, far from it,
but his mistakes were not just grounds for revolting ;
and as obedience was the first condition of military dis-
cipline, nothing like order could exist without it. He
"ended by saying that the past would be forgotten, and he
hoped, that as long as he remained Commissioner, his or-
ders would be of such a nature that no man would feel
inclined to disobey. And I may here add, that his hopes
were fulfilled ; for during the whole of the time that he
remained in office, not a murmur was heard, and all were
proud of having such a leader.

In tJie account of my first journey to the plains, we
have seen that in the rogion of Red Deer River, boffitloes
were very numerous ; and here the Indians during the
winter season hunt them. To protect these Indians from

Six Tears in the Canadian North- West.

103

the whiskey traders, Tail Creek Fort was built about
half-way between Fort Calgarry, on Bow River, a^^d Fort
Saskatchewan. This fort was built near the mouth of
Tail Creek, and a part of the division was quartered
there.

In August, 76, Sub-constable M. and myself, were or-
dered to hold ourselves in readiness to start for Tail
Creek, where we were to pass the winter ; and for my
part, I was delighted with the prospec L »f a second so-
journ among the Indians. This time aw I was not to
spend a few weeks only, but a few rr oiithp in their com
pany, it would afford me an exceuent opportunity of
stuuyiQg their manners and customs.

After my journey to the plains the previous year, I
should have been able myself to pilot the way to our des-
tination ; but for greater security Constable C, who had
been to Tail Creek several times, was detailed to go with
us, as guide.

At ten o'clock in the morning of the 25th of August,
we set out, following the road which passes along paral-
lel to the right bank of the Saskatchewan, but at some
distance from it, and which leads to a gristmill situated
about opposite Fort Edmonton. We were about one
hundred and twenty miles from Tail Creek, but having
four spiiited horses, we expected to accomplish the jour-
ney in five days at the most.

There was certainly a striking contrast between my
two travelling companions. Sub-Constable M. was a
Scotchman, seldom offeree; a remark, and answered

104

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

questionsonly after mature deliberation. But quite the
contrary was Constable C, who was an Irishman, and
boasted of^his descent from the ancient Irish kings. JHe
was never quiet and never tired of admiring the vast
prairies] that were stretching before us," frequently re-
minding us of the thousands of labourers, who were liv-
ing in large towns in the most abject'misery, and who,i^if
they were settled here, where land cost nothing and never
becomes exhausted, would think themselves the happiest
of men.

We were then traversing one of the most beautiful and
fertile regions of the North-west. On our right, in a
deep bed, rolled the majestic waters of the Saskatchewan.
According as we recede from the river bank, the ground
gradually rises as far as the Beaver Hills which lie be-
tween Edmonton and Fort Saskatchewan, in the direction
parallel to the river. The soil enclosed between the hills
is very fertile ; timber suitable for building is plentiful,
and game very abundant.

As for the road we were following, the settlers had
abandoned it for that which extends along the left branch
of the river. We had not taken the last, in order to
avoid crossing the river at Fort Saskatchewan and Ed-
monton. However, it would have been better Ij have
chosen this road rather than the first, which being cov-
ered with luxuriant grass, was difficult to follow.

At sunset, being ybt [severaPmiles from the mill, we
camped on the banks of a brook that we had just crossed.
Scarcely had we set our horses at liberty to graze, when

Six years in the Canadian Korth-West. 105

' ft

Constable C, taking possession of the kettles, ran to fill
them with water for the supper ; a few minutes after, a
large fire was burning and soon the repast was served on
the grass. Neither I nor Sub-constable M. could under-
stand the reason of so much haste, and to our questions
Constable C. would reply briefly, "hurry up." Our supper
was nearly over, when an Indian, issuing from a neigh-
bouring thicket, (3ame towards us. He was the chief of
the tribe, dwelling among the Beaver Hills. After shak-
ing hands with us, the only mode of salutation used
among the Indians, he seated himself, without restraint,
beside the kettles : his hair waving, and having for a
dress nothing but a " pagne."

At the sight of such " sans g^ne" Sub-Constable M.
made a grimace, and but for Constable C, who made him
a sign not to stir, he was about to rush upon the Indian,
and make him decamp. It was well for us that he did
not do so, for six other Indians who just then were ap-
proaching, followed by their squaws and papooses, would
have quickly resented any insult ofiered to their chief.
All sat down around the kettles, waiting for the remains
of our meal, and the scene suggested a picture worthy of
the greatest painter.

"Do you understand now," said Constable C, "my hurry
in preparing supper? We shall have to do thus every time
we camp in the neighbourhood of Indians, and I hope we
shall havo time to eat before they arrive ; for the sight
of their persons takes away all my relish for food,"

106 8ix Years in the Canadian North-West.

After baving scraped and even licked our kettles, the
Indians smoked for awhile, and then held a council. On
hearing them repeat the word neemito, which in the Cree
language signifies "to dance," I understood that they
were about to engage in that exercise. The chief ad-
dressed a few words to an Uskinik squaw, who comply-
ing with his request, bounded away with the rapidity of
a deer. At the end of an hour, she returned, holding in
her hand a tambourine and a drum stick which she gave
to one of the Indians, who, after tuning the instrument,
began the pam-pam already known to the readers. Wo
have already described a similar dance ; so we need not
return to it. Sub-constable M. and I were not in a hu-
mour to take part in it, but Constable C, whom a trifle in-
terested, danced the whole night.

The next day, in order to escape the importunities of
the Indians, we set out before breakfast and soon arrived
at a bifurcation of the road. On the left bank of the
Saskatchewan, were to be seen some houses which, ac-
cording to Constable C, formed a part of the colony of
Edmonton. We were then near the creek upon which is
built the mill where the road to the right terminates. As
we had to cross this creek about a mile above the mill,
we took the left hand road : but, after marching on it for
some time, we remarked that it was taking us away from
the direction we had to go. So, retracing our steps to
the bifurcation, we took the other way and soon came to
another branch of the road from which place appeared on
our right the grist mill and Fort Edmonton. Taking the

Six Years in Jte Canadmn North-West

107

road to the left, which, being recently laid out, was
scarcely passable, we soon arrived on the banks of the
creek where we expected to cross on a bridge which had
been built some time during the previous year. But we
were disappointed in our expectations ; the bridge had
been carried away by a flood in the spring. The stream
being not fordable, we had to build a bridge. But it will
be said, does not such a work require weeks and even
months ? By no means, a few hours were sufficient to
throw across the creek a temporary bridge. While my
comrades were cutting some branches, I cut down two or
three trees which fell across the stream. Upon the trunks
were laid the branches which were covered with earth.
This done, we safely crossed to the other side. B^suming
our march, we were soon on the road from Edmonton to
Buffalo Lake, the same one that I had taken the preced-
ing year, and which we were to follow as far as the vicin-
ity of the above lake.

Although my journey to the plains had been made
when the ground was covered with snow, this road was
pretty familiar to me, on account of certain striking inci-
dents which occurred on it. Here is the place where the
half-breed, from whom I had hired a team of dogs, gave me
his last instructions ; a little farther, the tree to which I
had fastened the dogs to give them a beating, etc., etc.

Towards evening, we reached White Mud Creek, a
tributaiy of the Saskatchewan, about ten miles distant
from Edmonton, on the banks of which we camped for
the night. We would have halted sooner but for som^

Hi I

108 Six Years in the Canadian N'orth-West

Indian families which we overtook and left behind us.
We had taken with us only six days provisions, hence,
notwithstanding the good will of Constable C, we could
not invite Indians to our meals. Besides, Sub-constable
M., by his giimaces, showed his want of sympathy with
such guests. At nightfall, the next day, we met, near
Pipestone Creek, the interpreter of the Mounted Police
from Fort McLeod, greatly excited by fear. Bearing dis-
patches for Fort Saskatchewan, he informed us of the
massacre of the American General Custer and his army
by the Sioux ; adding, that the Indians of Canada were
secretly arming themselves, and would soon fall unex-
pectedly upon the whites and half-breeds. The check re-
ceived by the Americans was not very serious. Custer
had under his command only three or four hundred sol-
diers, a very feeble force when we consider that he was
attacked in an unfavourable position by several thousand
savages. In the open country, notwithstanding its inferi-
ority of number, Custer's army would have easily gained
the day. The Indian extraction of the interpreter will
account for his fears ; for the half-breeds, like the Indians,
are not remarkable for their courage. The following
anecdote, which I have from a reliable source, will give an
idea of their courage, or rather their want of courage.

" One day a great number of mounted half-breeds, ac-
companied by carts, were going to hunt buffaloes. Among
them was a French Canadian, who, not being able to ride,
was placed in a cart. After marching a long time with-
out meeting any game, they arrived in the teiTitory of

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

109

the Blackfeet who were the terror of the half-breeds.
(This was a fact which had been verified in. 1874 ; for
before the arrival of the Mounted Police they had but
rarely ventured beyond the territory of the Crees.) As
their provisions were almost exhausted, and by retracing
their steps starvation was awaiting them, they advanced
carefully, determined to beat a retreat as soon as they
should perceive the Blackfeet. During two days they
met nobody, but the third day, just as they resumed their
journey, they perceived in the distance some horsemen
coming towards them. Although superior in numbers,
they were seized with such terror that before assuring
themselves as to whether they had to deal with friends
or enemies, they took to flight, abandoning the carts and
the Canadian, tv ho besought them, but in vain, to remain.
These Indians were Crees, and seeing nobody on the carts
they were preparing to take possession of them when
they perceived the Canadian standing up, curious to know
who the newcomers were. The Crees, who, like the hare
in LaFontaine'sfable.thought themselves valiant warriors,
haughtily asked him why his companions had run away.
When they learned the reason of it they burst out laugh-
ing, and called the half-breeds cowards. The latter had
concealed themselves in a low place, at some distance from
where they could see without being seen, and seeing that
the Canadian was unmolested and continuing his journey
with the carts, they issued from their hidin'g place and
soon overtook him, ashamed of having shown so little
courage."

110 Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

The next morning at daybreak, the interpreter, whose
nerves had been steadied by sleep, set out again, and
very soon after We did the same. Having come to a bifur-
cation of the road, I remarked to Constable C.,who took the
road to the right, that the road to the left seemed to me
to be the one I had followed the preceding year. How-
ever, I did not insist, when he assured me that we were in
the right way. Meanwhile, I was asking myself, but in
vain, to what destination the other road, which was much
travelled, could lead. After crossing Pipe Stone Creek
we entered a bushy region, and as we gradually advanced
the road became less passable and turned in a wesiterly
direction. We could not, therefore, be on the right road, as
the Way from Edmonton to Buffalo Lake lies in a southern
direction and across what may be called a prairie country,
I communicated my fears to Constable C. and asked
him if he was perfectly sure that we were on the right
road. He was forced to admit that he now entertained
some doubt about it, but he thought that we would pro-
bably reach Battle River by that road at all events, and
by following the banks of that stream it would be easy
for us to find our way again. In expecting that we would
reach Battle River he was greatly mistaken, since instead
of going south, we were going west as before stated, and
admitting even that we should reach Battle River that
way, how did he know that we could travel along its
banks with the cart ? We were travelling at random, as
we shall see later on.

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

Ill

The next day, at noon, we arrived on the banks of a
stream which we erased, after demolishing a beaver dam
which obstructed the way, and, entering a region where
the grass was abundant and the soil loamy (different in
that respect to the region we had just left, in which the
soil is very sandy), we resolved to remain until the next
day in order to allow our horses time to recuperate. As
the soil where we stood is of the same nature as in the
vicinity of Battle River, Constable C. assured me once
more that we would soon be on the banks of that stream.
He especially said this in order to raise the spirits of Sub-
constable M. who, having charge of the provisions, had
told us that we had hardly enough flour to last two daj^s.
Whether there was any flour or not, it mattered little to
Constable C, who, being a dead shot and having with him
a fowling piece, expected to bring down all the game that
would come within range. Unfortunately since leaving
Fort Saskatchewan, we had not met any game, and if
this continued, his skill would be of little service
to us. I was, however, far from becoming discouraged,
for in case the flour and the game would fail, I counted
upon attacking two hundred pounds of bacon that were
in the cart.

Veiy early the next morning, while Sub-constable M.
was preparing breakfast, I went to look after the horses
in order to bring them in. But notwithstanding a care-
ful search of two hours, I came back with only two
horses to my travelling companions. " Very probably "
said Constable C, to me, " we shall soon find the horses,

112 Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

meanwhile put one of the remaining horses in the cart
and go forward till you reach ^^ttle River. As we
shall travel quicker than you, we shall soon overtake
you." His excessive confidence caused me to smile ; but
I set out nevertheless, in advance, urging the horse for-
ward, anxious as I was to arrive somewhere. The more I
advanced the more difficult became the road, which was
narrow, and in a good many places, obstructed with
stumps and felled trees. As I said before, the road to
Buffalo Lake that we should have followed, passes through
scarcely anything but plains ; the road on which I was
travelling was becoming more and more hilly, and the
forest more dense.

Having marched up a gradual ascent for an hour or so,
I suddenly found myself on the verge of a very steep
descent. Too late to stop the horse, and the cart not be-
ing provided with a brake, I found myself going down
hill with extreme velocity. This unrestrained course
could not last very long, and arriving at a turn of the
road, the cart upset and I was thrown, head first, to a
great distance. This fall stunned me for a moment, and
on recovering my senses, I saw the horse lying on his
back, and struggling in the harness. To set him at lib-
erty was the work of a second, and I ascertained with
pleasure that he had only some slight bruises. As I was
about to unload the cart in order to raise it again, I heard
a hollow roaring, similar to that produced by waves
breaking against the rocks. At first, I thought it
was the waving of the trees agitated by the wind ; but

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

113

the noise being heard only in front of rae, I soon concluded
that it was produced by some other cause. Leaving the
cart there, and followed by the horse, which I could not
leave alone in this unknown region, I set forward in the
direction of the noise. After walking in that manner
some hundred yards, I came in sight of a lake on the shore
of which at some distance to the right, were a few log
cabins. The lake was rough, and the noise that I had
heard was produced by the dashing of the waves against
its rocky shore. But what lake was it ? This was a
question that I could not answer. After reflecting for a
while, I remembered that, since we went astray, we had
been marching in a souihwestem direction ; and, as
Pigeon Lake lay that way, I concluded that it was that
large sheet of water which I saw before me. It was then
useless to go any farther ; so, I immediately returned to
the cart, from which I removed the baggage and set it up
again. Then I hitched the horse in order to retrace my
steps. While turning around, I heard the gallop of a
horse which was approaching, and a few moments after-
wards. Constable C. appeared, mounted on his horse, which
was pouring with sweat, and whose sides were lacerated
by the spurs of its rider. Constable C. was so excited
that one would have thought that he had been running
for life. " Do you know where we are ? " said he, at
length. " Certainly," said I, " I cannot so soon forget that
we are on the banks of Battle River ; only, to effect a
crossing of several miles, a ferry is absolutely necessary.
Don't you think it would be better to return, and cross

114

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

Battle River where it is fordable ?" " Pray cease your
raillery," he replied, " like you, I want to go back, but first
try and answer my question." " My answer will perhaps
surprise you," said I, " but if you desire it, I tell you that
we are at this moment in the forest that surrounds Pigeon
Lake." " That is what I have just learned from a settler,"
said he, " on hearing this, I put my horse to a gallop in
the hope of sparing you a useless march, but I was too
late to overtake you before your arrival at the lake."

Notwithstanding our critical situation. Constable C,
soon recovered his usual gaiety, feeling confident that
two Indians which he had hired would find the lost
horses. In the evening we met Sub-constable M. and
camped about ten miles from the Lake.

>ur
rst
ips
lat
on
r,"
in
Itoo

C,
lat
ost
ind

CHAPTER XII.

Pigeon Lake and its Surroundings— Retracing our Steps— Short of Kations.
— How to Prepare Dry Meat — On the Right Road again— Battle River —
Our Arrival at Tail Creek Fort— A Word about That Place— Constable P.
a wonderful mathematician — My Attempt to Assist him.

PIGEON LAKE is about ten miles distant from the
Saskatchewan River and fifty miles from Edmon-
ton. In round numbers, it is about fifteen miles long and
ten miles wide. Upon its shores, there is a colony, whose
inhabitants, chiefly Indians and half-breeds, live by hunt-
ing and fishing. This lake abounds in fish ; and the
settlers around Edmonton and Fort Saskatchewan often
go to Pigeon Lake in autumn to exchange goods for fish
with the Indians and half-breeds. In the vicinity of the
lake, the soil is fertile, and the settlers there cultivate
vegetables and a few cereals. But on account of the high
price of labour, the clearing of the land would entail too
great an expense to permit the cultivation of cereals being
undertaken on a large scale. It is from Pigeon Lake and
two other lakes situated farther south, that Battle River
takes its rise.

Next morning, the Indians brought us the horses we
had lost. We congratulated ourselves on getting out of
the predicament so cheaply, when we remembered that

116

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

horses lost in similar circumstances, have often been
found only after months aud even years of most careful
search."

Before resuming our journey, we exchanged with a set-
tler some bacon for dry meat. It may be well to make
known to the reader the process by which the Indians
prepare this kind of meat.

Buffalo and deer are the kind of animals the most suit-
able for furnishing dry meat, which is generally prepared
in summer time. After having killed and skinned the
game, it is cut into large thin slices which are dried in
the sun. This meat thus becomes very ha^ 1, and, pro-
tected from moisture, it resists decompositioi The Indi-
ans employ the same process to preserve fish.

He who buys meat and fish thus prepared, from the
Indians, for his own use, must not be very fastidious as
to cleanliness. I have often seen Indian and half-breed
families trample with their bare feet upon the dry meat
intended for sale. In order to be easily eaten, dry meat
ought to undergo a long preparation ; but when travelling,
as time is limited, it in often eaten without being pre-
pared, and in such a case good teeth are necessary.

Although travelling rapidly, it was only in the after-
noon of the next day that we reached the road leading to
Buffalo Lake ; and the horses being tired, we camped
early between the two Pipestone Creeks.

To my travelling companions who had good teeth, it
was indifferent whether the meat was tender or not ; but
as for me, it vrw otherwise, I was suffering so much from

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

117

my teeth that I could hardly eat any of it. My friends
were very much concerned about this, and asked them-
selves, how I would be able to live until our arrival at
Tail Creek. I calmed their fears, saying that I would be
able to manage very well for two or three days. After
supper, to their great surprise, I drew from the cart, a
large piece of bacon which I cut into small slices. They
watched me without saying anything, wondering what I
intended to do with it. Then I put the bacon in the
kettle which I filled up with water and placed on the
fire. " What are you doing there ? " said Constable C»
"I am cooking some bacon," I answered. " Do you know
what you are doing, foolish man ? If yea eat all that
salt meat, you will not find water enough to quench your
thirst," said he.

"Never you mind, I shall not drink more than usual,'
saiti I. " My meat will be preferable to yours, which to
my mind, resembles parchment more than meat." I
rendered the bacon less salt by several times renewing
the water in the kettle, and allowed it to cook well.
When it had cooled, I gave some of it to my friends to
taste, and they acknowledged that bacon thus prepared
was not very salt, and consequently preferable to dry
meat.

About ten o'clock the following morning, we reached
Peace Hills. From here, a slightly sloping plain extends
as far as Battle River. This region, which is exceedingly
fertile, is yet almost uninhabitated. The reason of this
is that settlers who go to the North'West, find fertile

1 18 Six Years in the Oanadian Iforth- West.

lands without going so far. But the Battle River region
will not long remain unoccupied, for it will soon be
completely transformed by the emigrants which will flock
there when the Pacific Railroad which will pass through
or near it is completed.

In the afternoon we crossed Battle River, and, at night-
fall, we reached Red Deer Lake, near the shore of which
we nitched our tent for the night. Considering its little
depth, this lake is in reality only a large pond ; and, at that
time, being covered with ducks, Constable C. thought he
would have rare sport, and, at the same time, add to our
stock of provisions. Accordingly, he set out at once ; but
he bum't his powder to no purpose, the game remaining
beyond the range of his gun.

Being then only about thirty miles from Tail Creek,
we set out early the next day, in hope of reaching our
destination before night. A little before noon, we came
to a bifurcation, from which Bufialo Lake was presented to
our view. The road to the left was the same that I had
followed the preceding year, and the road to the right,
which goes by Tail Creek, was the one we had now to
travel. This route being entirely unknown to me, it fell
to Constable C.'s lot to act again as guide ; but he was no
more successful than in the first place, for, as we went
along, we came to so many bifurcations that we went
astray three times, losing thus so much time, that it was
midnight, when we arrived at the hills that overlook Fort
Tail Creek. As we had to descend a very steep hill, and
the night being very dark, Sub-constable M. suggested

Six Years in the Canadian North- West

119

that we should leave the cart there until morning, and
proceed to the Fort with the horses. But Constable C.
who, I must say, was full of expedients, and was ac-
quainted with the road, tied the wheels of the cart by
means of ropes in order to prevent them from turning ;
and, in that manner, we reached the valley without acci-
dent. Very soon after, we were knocking at the gate of
the Fort ; and the men in charge there, who were in bed.
hearing our calls, got up and let us in, being much pleased
at our arrival What foUowed next was an abundant
repast which they quickly prepared, and which caused us
to forget our recent privations.

Fort Tail Creek was then occupied by four men, one of
them, Constable P. being in charge of the detachment.
Having enlisted in the Mounted Police in 1873, he distin-
guished himself during the campaign of 1874, and
his skill in buffalo-hunting added to his reputation, and
caixsed him to be sumamed " Buffalo Slayer." He was a
man twenty-five years of age. His high stature and
stoutness denoted herculean strength, and his piercing eye
and martial appearance gave him an air of command that
I shall never forget. After questioning us about Fort
Saskatchewan, he began to extol the region about Tail
Creek. But for ray part, I could not see what there was
to extol, as it resembled a desert. However, Constable? did
not stop there ; from the geography of "Red Deer River
he passed suddenly to the brilliant future in store for the
North- West. He gave a minute description of the prin-
cipal agricultural and manufacturing machines then in

120 Six Years in the Canadian Korth-Weat.

existence, and sketched with extraordinary clearness the
lives of their inventors. From the applied sciences he
passed rapidly to the exact sciences, and from practice to
theory. In short. Constable P. held us entranced for two
hours by his reasoning, and his strong and eloquent
voice.

This long and learned dissertation, to which my com-
panions listened with open mouth, had ajstonished me. I
could not undertand how such a young brain could con-
tain so much knowledge, and asked myself why this
"science vivante " had come to exile himself in the North-
West. This was a mystery, and, feeling myself invisibly
attracted by this wonderful man, I resolved to solve
the mystery. Therefore, after many fruitless attempts to
sleep, I got up early in the morning and directed my steps
towards his quarters ; but seeing that he was yet in bed,
I went to visit the neighbourhood while awaiting his
awakening.

Foiu Tail Creek consists of three buildings only,
whose walls are made of logs placed one above another,
and the roofs formed of poles covered with hay and earth.
When these roofs have not sufficient pitch, the rain easily
penetrates them. Two of these buildings (one used for
men's quarters and the other for a stable) are surrounded
by a stockade made of stakes. As for the third house, it
was the dwelling of the constable or the officer, as the
case might be, in charge of the forts. Situated in a bushy
valley. Fort Tail Creek is overlooked by hills covered
with fir trees. On the right, flows Red Deer River, on

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

121

> the left, Tail Creek. But the site is not a good one ; for,
in time of war, the surrounding hills would afford a refuge,
and protection to the enemy.

After a long walk I returned to the Fort, and thinking
that our savant was up, I turned my steps towards his
house, the door of which I found open. He was not
within, and I thought that, like me, he had gone for a
walk. I was about to retrace my steps, when, on a shelf,
I saw a row of books, and, being curious to inspect the
works of Constable P., I entered, thinking that the scar-
city of books in the North-West would justify the liberty
I took: While I was engaged in glancing through the
• books, which for the most part dealt with mathematical,
physical, and natural sciences. Constable P. returned,
and, without waiting for any explanation about my intru-
sion in his house, he took a seat and sat down with an
air of complete satisfaction, inviting me to do the same.

" Sub-constable D.," said he after a pause, " you cannot
imagine how glad I am that ^'^ou have come here. I am,
at present, engaged in very important scientific studies,
and your competency in those matters will be of great
service to me."

" It is a mistake," I replied, " if you have been told that
I "

" Hear me to the end," said he. " This morning I went
to your place to ask you what day we could begin to-
gether our scientific studies. I was informed that you
were out ; but here you are at last, and I now propose to

you my project, do you accept it ? " "I cannot," said I,
8

122

Six Tears in the Canadian North- West.

" for the very reason that the subjects you propose to
study are beyond my reach. What brings me here is the
desire of gaining from your society the knowledge of
which you gave us a general idea last night." " What is
that ? " said he, " It is you that will be the teacher and
I the student."

I thought, at first,- that Constable P. was only jesting,
but seeing that he was resolved to study, I concluded
that he was making a serious proposal. ^

" I have," said he, " deeply studied geometry and the
other elementary mathematical sciences ; but convinced
that, in order to build a house, it is necessary to lay a
solid foundation, I am of the opinion that we should
begin at the beginning."

" Let it be well understood," said I, " that I am your
pupil ; on this condition only I accept your offer. How-
ever, if my very limited knowledge of those subjects can
be of use to j'ou, I am at your disposal ; but I prefer re-
ceiving lessons to giving them."

The lessons being arrangeci, I departed, promising to
return in the evening. That day, time glided very slowly
for me, hours appeared days, for I was anxious to see how
such a scholar would handle the propositions of geometry.
The time appointed for the lessons came at last, and I re-
paired to the house of Constable P., who appeared mean-
time to have reviewed the lessons.

" Well," said he, " let us begin with geometry." He
enunciated the first proposition in pl^ne geometry, and
then passed to the demonstration which he uttered

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

123

with great volubility, but of which I understood nothing.
At my request, he repeated the demonstration as many as
three times, but at the end, I was no more advanced than
at the beginning.

" I am really disappointed," said he, " that you do not
understand. Let us go on with the second proposition."

It was the same with the second as with the first — I un-
derstood nothing ; and at that moment, having yet no doubt
about the scientific ability of Constable P. I concluded
that he had a way of reasoning that a common man could
not follow. As we went daily on with our studies, I
gradually began to think that his knowledge of the sub-
jects on which he was discoursing with so much volu-
bility was very superficial; but I had then no time to
verify it, as he received orders to repair at once to Fort
McLeod. I had forgotten him, when, a year afterwards,
he wrote me a letter, reminding nie of our studies at Tail
Creek, and proposing that we should continue them by
correspondence. Tn order to be agreeable, as well as to
clear up my doubts concerning his scientific attainments,
I accepted. He answered me by the next mail, sending
me absurd solutions of problems, and ridiculous questions.
I had, therefore, to give up corresponding with this savant,
comprehensible only to those whose brains have lost their
balance.

CHAPTER XIII.

Constable P. is Succeeded by Constable S., of Fort Saskatchewan— Winter
Dwelling of Buffalo Hunters — State of the Region between the Rivers Bow
and Red Deer during the Winter — Sad fate of a Courageous Missionary —
Inquest of a Supposed Murder perpetrated at Tail Creek — My Return to
Fort Saskatchewan.

CONSTABLE P. was succeeded by Constable S., of
Fort Saskatchewan. He had not, like his prede-
cessor, the mathematical fever, but he was a good non-
commissioned officer, and ever mindful of the duties he
had to fulfil.

In the North-West Territories the autumn is by far the
most pleasant season of the year. The temperature is
mild, and with the exception of the infallible snow-storm
of September, there is raally no bad weather. As this is
the most favourable season for travelling, and the sur-
roundings of Tail Creek were very solitary, we frequently
made excursions to the plains which afforded us very
agreeable recreation.

About the middle of October the Indian and half-breed
hunters began to arrive ; the former having no carts but
using their squaws (whom they load like wild beasts of
burden), their horses and dogs to transport their baggage ;
as for the half-breeds, they carried their luggage in Red

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

125

River carta, and as many of them had been there the pre-
vious year their cabins were ready to receive them, and
they had only to take their goods in and settle down ; but
the new comers had to build, and this is the way they set
about it : Selecting a site well sheltered from the wind,
and amply supplied with wood and water, they felled
some trees, and placing the trunks one above another,
formed the walls of the new building. The roof was con-
structed with poles placed in rows and covered with hay
and earth. Holes were cut in the walls for door and win-
dows, the latter being closed in when so required with
the skins of animals ; while the doors were made of slabs
of wood split with the axe and fastened together with
thongs ot rawhide. The chimney was constructed with
unbumed bricks composed of hay and mud, and the floor
formed of hewed logs completed the carpenter work.
This done, they plastered the crevices well with mud and
the cabin was ready for occupation. The ease with which
they are constructed, and the wanderings of game, will
account for the number of these cabins to be found
throughout the whole North-West.

The surroundings of Fort Tail Creek were soon occu-
pied by three or four hundred persons, and night was
made hideous by the deafening cries and repeated pow-
wows of the Indians and the no less discordant screeches
of the violins of the half-breeds, who vied with the
Indians in turning our hitherto peaceful valley into a
very bedlam.

120 Six years in the Canadian North- West

Winter came at last in all its rigour, and snow fell in
abundance early in November. Then followed the storms
common in those regions and which usually arose very
suddenly, — so suddenly indeed, that the bands of hunters
roaming over the plains in search of buffalo were often in
danger of being overcome before reaching shelter. The
following episode will illustrate what not unfrequently
occurs : —

Some six years ago, a missionary named McDougal,
who had resided in that country for about twenty-five
years, started to visit an Indian camp about twenty miles
distant, and which he expected to reach the same day.
Mounted on his best horse, he yet could proceed but
slowly, as the snow was a foot deep and he had no track
to guide him. He had, however, advanced several miles
when suddenly the wind arose, the sky became overcast
with clouds, and in less time than it takes to write the
fact the darkness of midnight and a blinding snow-storm
of indescribable violence was upon him.

Unable to see his way, he wandered at randoL.., and, at
last, overcome with the cold, he lost control of himself
entirely, fell from his horse and was soon overcome by
that fatal sleep which knows no awaking. The return of
the horse which, instinctively found his way to his own-
stable, gave the alarm, and only after the most diligent
search by the Indians, was the body of this unfortunate
missionary recovered.

Our sojourn at Tail Creek was gliding slowly and mon-
otonously by, when an event occurred which produced

Six years in the Canadian North- West. 127

a great sensation in our little colony. A report was cir-
culated that a half-breed woman had murdered her foster
child. Constable S. immediately instituted an inquest,
and, as I spoke English and French, I was instructed to
bring all the inhabitants to the Fort. A difficult task,
the>eader will say, and so I thought at first ; but, going
about my work with calm assurance, I was surprised to
find that both half-breeds and Indians would follow me
like so many sheep.

The inquest was prosecuted rigorously for two days, but
no evidence whatever could be produced to criminate the
woman ; and we were forced to the conclusion that the re-
port was a calumny, which had for its origin a malignant
supposition which, passing from mouth to mouth, had
grown to such huge dimensions as to make the unfortun-
ate woman appear a murderer.

In the month of March, 1877, 1 had orders to return to
Fort Saskatchewan ; and as the melting snow rendered
the roads difficult for horses to travel. Constable T., at
the expense of the Government, hired a dog-team by
which I was to be conveyed to Battle River, and from
whence a similar team was to take me on to Edmonton.

The time appointed for my departure was midnight, as
the snow would be hardened by the night-frost, and,
punctual to the time, the half-breed, who was the best
runner on Tail Creek, arrived at the Fort. I took my seat
on the sled, and we started at full speed.

As runners, the half-breeds consider themselves superior
to the whites ; and after having proceeded about five

128

Six Years in the dmadian KoHh- West.

miles, feeling somewhat chilled, I thought I would warm
myself, and put the speed of my driver to the test at the
same time. So, jumping out of the sled, I gave the dogs
a few laishes with the whip, and away they went at a
gallop, leaving us far in the rear. We ran on and on,
until the half-breed could continue no longer, but taking
advantage of a bend in the road, he ran across the prairie
and in that way got in front of the dogs. Jumping into
the sled, he put whip to the dogs, le:.ving me to make my
way as best I could. Redoubling my speed, I ran for a
mile or two, and finally, the dogs slackening their speed,
I overtook them, and getting into the sled, rode to Battle
River which we reached at sunrise. Discharging my
man, I hired another team, and set out for Edmonton
that afternoon, and travelling on through the night, I ar-
rived there about three o'clock in the morning. Here,
taking a short rest, I set out for Fort Saskatchewan, and
finally reached there the same day.

'.»

CHAPTER XIV.

Good Results from Stationing A Division at Furt Saskatchewan— The Trial
and Execution of a Cannibal — My Resolve to Retiurn to France — A Theat.
rical Performance and Ball at Edmonton in 1880— St. Albert— Lost !— A
Nigh| on the Plains— Found a Friend— Frozen Feet.

THE quartering of A Division at Fort Saskatchewan,
had the good effect of maintaining order through-
out the whole region comprised between Victoria and the
Rocky Mountains, in one direction, and the rivers Bow
and Peace in the other. From the year 1875 to 1879,
several arrests were made, chiefly among the Indians ; and
oome of them were guilty of the most heinous crimes,
Among the number were four murderers. Two of these
murderers were arrested in 1877, but died in prison with-
out being tried for their crimes. The third was a canni-
bal, who had killed and eaten his wife and children, and
the fourth, a father who had murdered his son.

An eyewitness of the execution of the cannibal, the
first that had taken place in the North-West, I will here
relate the story of his most horrible crime, his arrest,
treatment, confession, and execution.

Kakisikutchin (a Cree word signifying "swift runner")
was the name of the cannibal. In the autumn of 1878 ,
with his wife and children, he repaired to the left bank

130

Six Years in the Canadian Xorth-West.

of Sturgeon Creek that he might hunt in that neighbour-
hood durinsr the winter. His efforts were successful, and
therefore there was no real cause for his crime. The
only way we can account for it is this : Acts of canni-
balism are said to be of frequent occurrence in the Polar
Regions. When game cannot be found, the Indians are
first driven to it by want, and after having once tasted
human flesh, an irresistible desire follows to eat it again-
Probably Kakisikutchin was one of this class, for with
abundance of provisions in the wigwam, and without
provocation, he first cjlew and ate his youngest child, then
the rest of his children in turn, and finally his wife met
the same fate. In the spring of 1879, he returned to his
tribe at Egg Lake, and, surprised at seeing him return
alone, he was asked what had become of his wife and
children. From his evasive answers they concluded a
crime must have been committed, and they imparted their
fears to Inspector Jarvis who caused him to be arrested
and imprisoned at Fort Saskatchewan. An inquest was
instituted, and the remains of the victims discovered.
Though the Indian hr.i at first denied his guilt, when
confronted with their ron.ains, he confessed. His crime
so exasperated the I<i'Uans that they resolved to de-
stroy the murderer, if he succeeded in escaping justice at
the hand of the law.

On the 8th of August a competent jury declared Ka-
kisikutchin guilty, and Lieut.-Colonel Richardson, a sti-
pendiary magistrate, sentenced him to be hung on the
20th of December. The prisoner, who heard his sentence

Six Years in M« i)anadian North-West.

131

with apparent indifference, having declared himself a
Roman Catholic, a priest was sent for who, by his con-
stant and assiduous attention, succeeded in bringing about
a great change in the mind of the condemned.

On the day before the execution took place a gallows
was erected within the Fort, the rope tested, and every-
thing made in readiness. The priest passed the whole
night with the condemned, and also breakfasted with
him. Finally the Sheriff, attended by Inspector Jarvis
and the executioner, entered the jail and announced to
the prisoner that his hour had come. The executioner
tied his hands, the guards entered and conducted him to
the scaffold, attended by the priest and the officers. Being
placed on the trap, the opportunity was given him to ad-
dress the large crowd which had gathered to witness the
execution. After saying a few words, in which he
again acknowledged his guilt and thanked those who had
charge of him during his incarceration for their uniform
kindness, the bolt was drawn and Kakisikutchin launched
into eternity.

When one has contributed in any degree towards the
formation of a town or village it is with regret that one
leaves it.

After having spent three years in the North- West I
first thought of returning to Ontario, but when opportun-
ities for departure presented themselves I found myself
■Without the courage to carry out my resolution. Thus
postponing my departure from time to time, the year 1880
found me still at Fort Saskatchewan ; and in consequence

132 Six years in the Canadian North-West.

of this repeated postponement, when I spoke of returning
to France in the spring of this year no one thought me
in earnest ; nevertheless I was firmly resolved to do so ;
though an unexpected accident, the account of which I
shall presently give, caused me to delay my departure
much longer than 1 had intended.

In February of this year I was invited to attend a play
and ball given by the inhabitants of Edmonton. My
readers will naturally ask how, in a wild country like
this, theatrical representations could be given. Neverthe-
less these plays are of frequent occurrence, and this is how
the matter is arranged.

First, a managing committee is formed, whose duty it
is to make all necessary preparations, and to invite the
guests. Invitations are frequently sent to a distance of
fifty miles, and thus the guests are sometimes reckoned
by hundreds. As these balls sometimes last five or
six days, an abundance of provisions must be pre-
pared. It was to a ball of this character, that I was in-
vited, and both the play and the ball took place within
the Fort tself. I arrived at five p. m., and very soon the
hall was crowded. On the platfoim, in front of the cur-
tain, was seated a half-breed, a very passable violinist,
who played a few military marches, followed by different
national anthems, and ended with the Maraeillcise, amid
the hearty applause of all present. The curtain rose,
and then began the representation of a rustic scene com-
posed for the occasion, and entitled " Hard Times." It
would take up too much space and time to give an

Six Years in the Canadian Nortli-Weat. 133

ing
me

analysis of the play ; suffice it to say that it lasted three
hours, the different characters were well sustained
throughout, and the halljesounded with merited applause
from the spectators. The play ended, a bountiful supper
was disposed of, and the play-room cleared for the dance.
Here the white guests danced by themselves, and after
the usual fashion, while the half-breeds, «rho formed the
largest part of the assembly, retired to another apartment,
and organized a dance of their own, and one more suited
to their tastes and habits.

After viewing the whites for a length of time, I went
to see how the half-breeds "trip the light fantastic."
There I found four or five couples engaged in what is
known as a " Red River Jig," dancing to an interminable
tune played by a most wretched player, and the rest of the
company seated on the floor, the men on one side of the
room and the women on the other. The music never
stopped, and the dancing never ceased to allow a change
of sets ; but when the player got tired, he passed the
violin to another, who struck up the same tune, and when
a dancer got tired, he signed to another to take his place ;
an«^ thus the dance went on.

The following morning, 1 set out for St. All)ert; a
colony situated eight miles north of Edmonton, on the
banks of Sturgeon Creek and the eastern shore of Big
Lake. In approaching St. Albert, the Bishop's palace,
the cathedral, and the orphans' home, under the superin-
tendence of the nuns, first meet the traveller's eye.
These three buildings are situated on a hill, whence

134 Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

.j''H*'ji

the eye can behold f* wirlp and extensive prospect.
Bishop Grandin, the Roman Catholic Bishop of Saskatche-
wan, founded this colony by the union of some Indian
and half-breed families, the latter coming from the Pro-
vince of Manitoba. The above mentioned buildings are
wooden structures, but they surpass in elegance all the
best buildings in the North-West.

The colony of St. Albert now has a population of nhovt
800, consisting chiefly of half-breeds and whites ; < 3
half-breeds being Franco-Indians, and the most of the
whites French-Canadians.

After spending three days there, I resolved to return
to Fort Saskatchewan by way of Lamoureux settlement,
on Sturgeon Creek, which I had not visited for a long
time. I had to travel on foot a distance of twenty -five
milef., but the road had been rendered smooth by the
numerous sleds which were circulating daily between
Lamoureux mill and the other settlements. There was a
good deal of snow, which the frequent wind-storms had
driven into great heaps in some places, leaving the ground
almost bare in other places.

I set out at ten a. m., and although it was in Febru-
ary, the day was warm. About two p.m. I arrived at
Lamoureux mill, and called upon some friends with whom
I took tea, and to whom I announced my approaching
departure for Europe. They prepsod me very kindly to
stay the night with them, but it being then just sundown,
and having only eight miles to walk, I thought I could
easily reach Fort Saskatchewan before bed time. Bid-

Six Years in tlte Canadian North- West.

135

• the

ding my friends good-bye, I started ; but on leaving the
settlement, three roads lay before me ; the one to the
right was the one by which I had come ; the secoad ap-
. peared to nie to lead to Edmonton, and I therefore took
the third. I would say here that it frequently happens
in the North-West, that the storms completely cover the
track, so that ihe first traveller after every storm is
obliged to make a road, and the track mado by his sled is
invariably followed by other travellers. From this the
the reader can under.'stand why I was puzzled which road
to take, as tli?^ road had by the above means changed its
position.

As T advanced, the roud led towards Sturgeon Creek.
This could not be right since Fort Saskatchewan is four
miles above the mouth of that stream, and a little further
on, I saw that I was on the road leading to Victoria, a
settlement which is situated about sixty miles below Fort
Saskatchewan. Night had come, and the wind was
blowing violently from the north-west. What was I to
do ? The wisest course would have been to retrace my
steps and take the other road, or to ficcept the hospitality
of my friends. But instead of doing either, I foolishly
turned to the right across the prairie, thinking I would
soon reach the road leading to Fort Saskatchewan. But
scarcely had I taken this direction, when dense clouds,
driven by the wind, enveloped me on every side. Soon
after the snow, came in a furious storm, and the darkness
was such that I could not see two paces before me.
Sometimes I plunged into banks of snow from which I

136

Six Years in the Canadian Noi'ili- West

could with difficulty extricate myself ; at other times, I
stumblod into the hollows between the drifts, and although
the wind was icy cold, I perspired most freely. I should
have buried myself in a snowbank, where I could have
calmly waited the end of the story, had I not met with a
hay-stack which led me to believe I was near some habi-
tation Trj vain I stopped from time to time to take
breath, k i try to pierce the darkness ; no sound save
the voice Oi the storm reached my ear. Completely lost,
I must have crossed the Fort Saskatchewan road by this
time, for three hours had passed since I left the road lead-
ing to Victoria. Fatigue and cold now began to overconje
me ; I had only one course to pursue : I must walk as
long as my strength permitted. In order to avoid the
banks of snow as much as possible, I took a stick in
each hand, and with these felt my way. Towards mid-
night the clouds disappeared, and the full moon appeared
in all its splendour; and I found myself on the edge
of a forest entirely unknown to me. Remembering that
I had some matches, I gathered some dry wood with
the intention of making a good fire. But what was my
disappointment when I found that the matches had been
moistened by perspiration and would not ignite. There
was no help for it ; I must continue my journey or perish.
First of all I had to discover the proper direction to take.
In the open plain the stars would have guided me, but
the wood was so dense I could not see them. However,
the trees which in these northern regions have much
thicker bark on the north side than on the south,

Six Years in the Canadian North- West 137

answered my purpose. By examining them from time
to time, I knew that I was going in the proper direction.

Having got cold while endeavouring to light a fire, I now
began to run in order to warm myself, and continued to run
until my strength failing me, I sat down with my back
against a tree. Sitting there, I began seriously, but
calmly, to reflect upon my situation. At first, I thought
I had done everything in my power to save my life, and
it only remained for me to die ; but a slight rest gave me
courage, and I concluded it would never do for one so
young and vigorous to yield thus to despondency. The?
remembrance of other travellers too, who had struggled
through circumstances quite as difficult, made me some-
what ashamed of my first thought, and taking fresh hope
from their example, I set out again, determined to proceed
as long as my tired legs would carry me. Very soon my
efforts were rewarded by the glad sight of fresh dog tracks
in the snow ; for I knew that if dogs were in the vicinity,
their masters were not far off. Following the tracks, I
was guided to a road with which I was not acquainted.
Where was I then ? The surroundings were so entirely
new to me, that I concluded in my aimless tramp, I must
have wandered farther and farther from the point I was
striving to reach. But before me was a road at all events ;
and this I followed, in hopes of soon meeting some one
who could tell me where I was, and give me food and
shelter.

It was about an hour after sunrise, when from the sum-
mit of a hill, I saw two houses in the distance. " This
9

138

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

time," paid I to myself, " I am wandering in my mind."
(For I remembered having heard of travellers who, quite
famished with hunger, took their wants for realities, and
thought they saw in the distance, tables laden with the
dishes which their appetite craved.) The houses I saw
were not illusion however ; for as I advanced, I recognised
the dwelling of one of my countrymen, Mr. S., situated
on the road between Edmonton and For^. Saskatchewan.
I then discovered that the road I was travelling on was
the one leading from Lamoureux settlement, and which
^oins the Edmondton and Fort Saskatchewan road, a little
distance from where I then was.

Walking across the prairie to my friend's house I found
the door locked; but thinking he could not be far off, I
shouted for him with all my might, and I soon saw him
coming from the stable, doubtlessly wondering who his
early moi*jing visitor could be. He was a long time in
recognising me ; for with my haggard appearance, sunken
eyes, and tattered clothes, I looked more like a madman
than a rational being. " What do you want, M.D." said
he at last. " To go in and refresh myself," said I. With
that he took his key and opened the door, and entering,
he set before me a plentiful repast, which I devoured in
silence. Having finished, I said to him : " My dear T.,
lend me a hand ; I very much fear my feet are frozen."
" Your feet frozen ? " exclaimed he, " how ? " "I have
passed the night in the woods," said I, " but my story is
too long to tell you now ; make haste, and take off my
moccassins." " Good heavens! " said he, on taking off my

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

139

stockings, " your feet are indeed frozen, and very badly
too." He immediately ran for a bucket of cold water, in-
to which he put some snow, and then plunged my feet
into it. But it was too late : this precaution should have
been taken before entering the house. Nevertheless, I
was so overcome with fatigue that I scarcely felt the ex-
cruciating pain which follows the thawing of a limb.
With the help of my friend, I got into bed, where I re-
mained the greater part of the day, and, in the evening,
his neighbour, T. L., carried me in his sleigh to Fort
Saskatchewan, where for three months, I received the ut-
most care and attention from Dr. H. of the Mounted
Police.

The news of my accident spread rapidly through the
settlement, and some of the people, in order to get an idea
of the distance I had traversed, tried to follow my tracks,
mounted on stout horses ; but they met with such tre-
mendous banks of snow, that they were forced to abandon
their enterprise.

CHAPTER XV.

Modes of Travelling to Reach Winnipeg— The Steamboat Lily - My Depar-
ture From Fort Saskatchewan— Importunate Visitors — The Fate of the
Half-breed Race— Fort Pitt— The Half-breed Home-The Sandbanks-
Battleford— Carleton— Our Arrival at Prince Albert — A New Mode of
Travelling Adopted— Prince Albert Settlement.

THK frost had rendered my feet in such a state that
I was unable to walk for two months, and it was
only towards the middle of May that I could think of
taking my departure.

To get to Winnipeg, which was the nearest point where
I could take the railroad, I had the choice of one of two
ways ; by waggon or by steamboat. The former is the
most • economical, but as my feet were not yet entirely
healed, and I wished to see the country along the Saskat-
chewan, I chose the latter. The boats which ply between
Winnipeg are three in number, each having its separate
route to traverse. The Lily, which runs between Edmon-
ton and Prince Albert, the '^orthcote, between Prince
Albert and Grand Rapids, and the Colville (which tra-
verses Lake Winnipeg), between Grand Rapids and Stone
Fort, on Red River.

This year (1880) was the first in which the Hudson.
Bay Company consented to carry passengers, the fare

Six Years in the Canadian Korth- West.

141

being eighty dollars from Edmonton to Stone Fort ; that
is cabin povssage ; steerage passage being only twenty-five
dollars ; and in addition to the fare we had to pay fifty
cents for every meal we took on board. Besides this, if
for any cause the boat cannot proceed, the Company does
not engage to carry the passengers by any other means
to their destination.

The Lily had been at Edmonton all winter. She is
built of steel, and is sufficiently broad and flat bottomed
to sail in shallow water. In the preceding autumn, while
on her way to Prince Albert, she sank near Vermilion
Creek, and the passengers, among whom was the Lieut. -
Governor of the North- West, had to reach Battleford in
a row-boat. As for the Lily, which they succeeded in
raising in three days, she returned to Edmonton.

In consequence of the melting of the snow in the
mountains, the River began to rise about the 1st of June ;
but there was not enough to warrant the launching of the
Lily until the 12th. The two following days were em-
ployed in loading with furs, and on the 15th, in the after-
noon, the Lily, leaving Edmonton, arrived at Fort
Saskatchewan at four o'clock. My preparations were com-
pleted and I went on board at once, and secured a cabin
passage from there to Stone Fort. Many of the settlers
came to express their regi'ets at my departure ; all the
more sincere because of the country' being so thinly
populated.

It was half-past five when we set out ; the evening; was
beautiful, the boat descended the stream with wonderful

142

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

speed and everything gave promise of a rapid and pros-
perous voyage. The cabin passengers were few ; there
being only two ladies of St. Albert, who were going to
Montreal, and myself. The cabins on all the Saskatchewan
steamers are very small, and not very comfortable when
fully occupied ; but happily I had one all to myself, and
thus I made myself quite cosy. As for the crew it was a
very Babel ; for all the languages known in the North-
West were spoken by them. There were both French
and English Canadians, half-breeds, Indians, and even
Austi-alians. But how the latter ever reached as far as
Edmonton is a mystery to me. Captain Smith, was a man
of phlegmatic temperament, and well suited to manage a
crew, the half of whom did not imderstand him, and knew
absolutely nothing about the duties required of them.

Night overtook us near Vermilion Creek, and here we
anchored for the night. On retiring I left my cabin door
partly open to afford ventilation, for it was very warm ;
but I soon paid dearly for this imprudent act, for I was
assailed by a swarm of mosquitoes which tortured me the
whole night.

At daybreak the Lily resumed her voyage, and at eleven
a. m. touched at Victoria to take in fuel and the Hudson
Bay Company's furs. Upon the banks here were scat-
tered pell-mell the half-breeds and Indians of Victoria,
all anxious to ^ei a view of the " fire-boat," (steamboat).
All at once I saw an old friend approaching. I had met
him first at Edmonton in 1874, but he left two years after-
wards, and,ha\nng lost sight of him, I thought he most have

Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 143

in
id

said good bye to the North- West. I went to meet him, and
was very much surprised to learn that he had just set-
tled at Victoria, where he intended to devote his time to
farming on a large scale.

" I am really surprised," said I to him, *' that you who
had such a great antipathy to the half-breeds can con-
tent yourself to live among them. Do you not think that
Edmonton would be more advantageous than Victoria."
" True," said he, " I would be better off at Edmonton, but
I have chosen Victoria for my abode in order to induce
the colonists passing this way to settle here ; for if the
whites do not come in and take the place of these degen-
erate half-breeds, in fifty years the map of the North-
West will be sprinkled with black dots, representing, not
the colour of the residents, but the absence of all progress
in those localities. " Look," added he, " the half of those
people you see on the bank have eaten nothing for two
days, and this morning my house was besieged by a lot of
them begging for a morsel of bread. Is it not shameful,
in a fertile country where the land costs nothing ? The
half-breeds must be absorbed by the whites or leave the
place ; there is no other alternative."

It was now time for me to return to the boat, for they
were beginning to withdraw the f ootbridfr . So I bade my
friend good-bye and departed, pondenug on his words
about the half-breeds. I had previously comiidered this
question, and I arrived at the same conclusion ; i)ut I did
not venture to express my opinions openly.

At night fall we anchored forty miles east of Victoria,

1 44 Six Years in the Cancullan Korth-Weftt.

and taught by recent experience, I kept my cabin hermet-
ically closed, preferring a suffocating heat to the bites of
the mosquitoes.

About ten o'clock the next morning, we stopped a few
miles above Fort Pitt to take on board the engine of a tug
belonging to the government. Having two hours at my
disposal I went ashore to examine the neighbourhood.
The soil here is more sandy than at Victoria and Edmon-
ton, and therefore vegetation is earlier. The landscape is
also different ; for while the region around Eldmonton and
Victoria is slightly undulating, that around Fort Pitt is
quite hilly.

That afternoon we arrived at Fort Pitt, and earing
from the captain that we were going to stop tl ours,

I resolved to consecrate that time in visiting that locality.

This colony is situated on the left bank of the Sas-
katchewan, in a plain gradually rising in amphitheatre
to a certain height, whence a wide prospect presents
itself to view. Around the Fort, which is enclosed by a
feeble stockade, one sees some small rustic houies, inhab-
itated by half-breeds, some Indian wigwams whose owners
have come to exchange furs for goods, and a small garden
adjoining the stockade of the Fort, which is cultivated by
the employees of the Company.

On landing, I went towards one of the small houses, at
the entrance of which, a half-breed was seated, content-
edly smoking his pipe. This fellow was not wanting in
politeness, for seeing my approach, he arose, and taking
off a dirty hat which he must have inherited from his

Six Yetirft in tite Canadian North-West.

145

ancestors, he invited me to enter. In a single apartment,
some twelve feet either way, which served as parlour, din-
ing-room, kitchen and bedroom, five children, hcantily
dressed in rags, were rolling on the floor, while the mo-
ther was swinging a sixth in a hammock. No chairs were
to be seen, the half-breed being contented to sit on the floor,
but an empty box was produced for my accommodation.
Finding my entertainer very loquacious, I resolved to get
from him all the information possible. " Now that the buf-
faloes have almost disappeared," said I to him, " would it
not be better for you to renounce this wandering life and
cultivate the soil ? "What do you do here ? I do not see
even a garden near your house." " I am in the service of
the Hudson Bay Company," he replied ; " but I would
cultivate the soil, if I had what is necessary ; cattle, agri-
cultural implements, and above all, enough provisions
for a year. Let the government come to the aid of the
half-breeds, and they will soon become farmers." " The
government will take good care not to do so," said I. "and
for very good reasons. If the half-breeds are still in pov-
erty, they have only themselves to blame ; for with the
fur trade, it would have been easy to realize great profits.
You are in a more favourable position than many of the col-
onists ; for you have horscL. at least, while they have only
their hands with which to gain a livelihood. Bear this
in mind, that, before very long, this country will undergo
a complete transformation, and if, in the meantime, you
have not made yourselves independent, you will be obliged
to retire into the wild regions, or become the servants of

146 Six Years in the Canadian North-West

the whites." Saying this, I started to visit the neighbour-
hood, followed by the half-breed.

" You Frenchmen from France," said he, as he accom-
panied me to the boat, " you always give us good advice
Your missionaries are constantly telling us to plough and
sow, and educate ourselves, if we do not want to be sup-
planted by the whites — to take possession of the best
lands and public offices, etc. But our opinion is that with
a gun and a horse, we have all that we require. We are
wanting in foresight and energy, but the half-breed is so
constituted. I thank you for your visit and advice, how-
ever, and wish you a safe and prosperous journey."

From Fort Pitt to Battleford, the current becomes less
swift, and sand banks are encountered, upon which boats,
guided even by experienced pilots, are sometimes stranded,
These sand-banks, invisible when the water is muddy,
occasion no other inconvenience than that of unloading the
the stranded boats in order to get them afloat again. To
avoid this, the Zi^^/jO^ leaving Fort Pitt, slackened her speed.
That day, we felt only some slight shocks ; but the next
morning, we encountered so many sand-banks, we could
not clear them all, and about eight o'clock the Lily sud-
denly came to a stop. After trying in vain to back off,
we succeeded in getting her afloat by means of the caps-
tan and spars which were placed in the water and worked
with pulleys, and two hours later, we came to anchor on
the right bank of the river, one mile abov e Battleford.

Learning that we would not set out again till the next
day, I directed my steps towards the town, which I had

8ix Years in the Canadian North-West. 1'47

never seen. While approaching a house where I hoped to
get information concerning the place, I suddenly heard my-
self called by name, and turning I beheld a constable of
the North-West Mounted Police, who was in the campaign
of 1874 with me, and from him I gathered all the infor-
mation I required. A little farther on, lay the town in a
valley of about three-quarters of a mile in length. Battle
River divides it into two parts by emptying itself into the
Saskatchewan River. The part on the left bank contains
the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, the fort of the
Mounted Police, and a few scattered houses ; but on the
right bank, is the greatest part of the town, where one
notices the Roman Catholic Church and the printing office
of the Saskatchewan Herald, the only newspaper in that
country.

Battleford is the Capital of the North- West Territories
and although its founding dates only from 1876, it pos-
sesses a population of about eight hundred inhabitants,
most of them half-breeds and whites. Being situated at
the junctio'i of the Saskatchewan and Battle River, and
on the line of the Canadian Pacific Railway, this town
will, before long, become one of the greatest commercial
centres of the North- West.

At night-fall I returned to ^he Lily, on board of which
a number of the inhabitants of the town were congre-
gated, bidding farewell to two of their fellow-townsmen
who were going; one, Mr. M., across the Atlantic, for the
benefit of his health, and the other, Mr. R., only as far as

148

Six Years in (lie Canadian Nortlt-West

Winnipeg. Destined to travel together, we were not long
in forming an acquaintance.

At day-break, we resumed our voyage, hoping to arrive
early at Carleton ; but we had not made allowance for a
contrary wind which blew with great violence during the
whole of the day. We soon arrived at the elbow where
the river turns towards the north in a direction parallel
to the South Saskatchewan, from which it is separated
by a distance of only fifteen miles, and with it, forms, from
the elbow to the confluence, a peninsula of about ninety
miles in length. Judging only from the soil of this pen-
insula, one is inclined to believe that it has been formed by
successive alluvial deposits from the rivers.

The sun was setting when we came in view of Carleton.
The Lily put in to the right bank, opposite the Hudson
Bay Co.'s Fort, amid the cries of the Indians and half-
breeds congregated on the shore. Here we were greatly
disappointed in h(;aring from Mr. Clarke, the director of
the Fort, that the steamer Northcote would probably not
anive before the 20th of July. We could have reached
Winnipeg by means of' vehicles, but we decided to pro-
ceed as far as Prince Albert by the Lilii where we would
come to a definite conclusion.

The next day, Sunday, the 20th of June, hearing that
the boat would not leave before one o'clock in the after-
noon, I went on shore to visit Carleton once more. This
colony has made but little progress since 1874 ; the only
change I noticed was a new house built by Mr. Clark.

That same day, at five o'clock in the evening, we arrived

Six Years in the Camtdian H^ovfli-West.

149

at Prince Albert, and anchored near the warehouse of the
Hudson Bay Co. We at once held a consultation as to
the best coarse to pursue in consequence of the delay of
the Northcote. Some were in favour of purchasing horses
and carriages to continue the journey ; others thought it
more prudent to await the arrival of the steamer. Four
of us, however, Messrs. R. and M., whom the reader already
knows, Mr. G., from Edmonton, and I, resolved to pur-
chase a skiff in which to descend as far as Grand Rapids.
This adventurous voyage, according to the pilot of the
Lilyy was to be very agreeable arid could be accomplished
in about ten days. Not to lose any time Mr. R. and myself
went in search of a skiff. We examined the canoes and
skiffs in the vicinity, but none of them being large and
strong enough to carry ourselves and our luggage, — we
therefore returned to the Zv7y and acquainted our com-
panions with the result of o r proceedings.

As we were discussing what was best to do next, an
Anglo-Indian half-breed came up, saying that hv could
construct, in a very short time, a boat capable of Ciutying
six persons : he had been one of an expedition under Sir
John Franklin to the Polar Sea.

" How long will it take you to build such a boat ? "
said Mr. R. " Five days at the most," answered the half-
breed. " What price do you ask ? " "Forty dollars, and
you furnish the material." Fearing my companions would
take his offer I interposed, remarking that it was much
too dear, and the more so as we were not absolutely
obliged to have the boat built. " If you will build the

150

Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West.

skiff for twenty dollars," said I to him, " we will give you
that amount, but no more."

My abrupt interference probably wounded the self-
importance of the half-breed, for he went away without
making a reply. But I understood those people too well
to be imposed upon by any of them. I knew he would
return, which in a short time he did, excusing himself for
having gone away without replying to my proposition,
and offering to construct the boat for twenty-two dollars
if we would furnish the material. This we agreed to,
and the next day he set to work.

Mr. R. had the happy idea of taking a tent, and offered
to share it with me ; and I willingly accepted, not caring
to take lodgings in any of the hotels of Prince Albert.

The Prince Albert settlement is one of the oldest and
most important colonies of the North- West. It begins
ten miles below Carleton and extends as far as the r on-
fluence of the two branches of the Saskatchewan. There
are at present three rising towns in different localities of
the settlement, the principal of which is Goshen, a land-
ing place for steamers and having some stores, a saw-mill
and a grist-mill, both driven by steam.

Prince Albert possesses three churches and several
schrols. Tiie inhabitants, who are widely scattered and,
whose number is unknown, cultivate cereals with success,
the region being extremely fertile.

CHAPTER XVI.

Departiire from Prince Albert — Cole Rapids— Fort 4 la Come — A Lesson on
Geography— Loss of a Part of Our Provisions— Bear Hunting — Birch Is-
lands— Mosquito Point — Cumberland — Trunks of Trees Encumbering the
Banks of the River — Our Arrival at Pas Mission.

ON Friday, the 2oth of June, the skiff was finished,
and our departure was fixed for the next day.
We had been assured that, at that season of the year, it
was impossible to procure provisions at any of the Forts
on our route ; hence, we took with us sufficient supplies
to last twelve days ; and to be prepared for every contin-
gency, we also took an extra 100 pounds of flour ; the
sequel will show that this was necessary precaution. I
shall never forget the kindness we received at the hands
of the Hudson Bay officers, for not only did they give
ua all necessary information, but they directed a half-
breed to pilot us all the way to Grand Rapids. This
guide, as will be seen, was far from meriting our confidence.
We passed the night of the 26th under Mr. R's tent, and
at two o'clock the next morning I awoke my companions ;
we prepared breakfast in the open air, and started at five
a.m. A short time after, we landed at the Hudson Bay
Company's Fort, where we had appointed to meet our
guide. He had not yet arrived, and I made the remark that

152

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

the boat was heavily laden enough without him, and that,
if it was absolutely necessary, we could find a guide at
any of the Forts situated on our route. My companions
nevertheless insisted on waiting for the half-breed, but it
was near six o'clock, and he had not yet appeared. We
were speculating as to what could be the cause for his de-
lay, when I remembered that he crossed the evening before
with our boat, and I remarked to my companions that he
had doubtless done this to try her strength, and not being
satisfied with it, he would not come. This conclusion
settled the matter, and we set out immediately. Mr. R.,
being the oldest, took the helm, Mr. G. and myself the
oars, and Mr. M. although ill, acted as pilot. The town of
Goshen soon disappeared behind us, and in three hours we
expected to reach Cole Rapids. We soon found out that
the current was swift enough to impart sufficient speed to
our boat ; so Mr. G. and F. agreed to row in turns, except
in the rapids, where we could not go too fast. . For three
hours we had sailed along without seeing any sign of
these famous rapids, so very dangerous, according to the
accounts of the inhabitants of Prince Albert, who had ad-
vised us to have our boat conveyed by waggon as far as
the junction (twenty miles off), and to embark there.

From time to time we stopped to listen to the least
noise that might indicate the proximity of the rapids,
at last Mr. M. called out : " Look here*! if we waste our
time in listening to imaginary noiseii, we shall never see
Grand Rapids. I doubt very much whether the half-
breeds and Indians of the North- West know what a rapid

Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West

153

is." Messrs. R. and G. seemed to share the opinion of Mr.
M., but I was of quite a different opinion, remembering
that a steamer, belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company,
had foundered while ascending a rapid.

Full of hope, my companions fancied themselves already
near the end of their journey, when, just as we were ap-
proaching a tongue of land which projected into the mid-
dle of the river, a rumbling noise like the roar of a cataract
interrupted their merry conversation. After turning the
point, we saw about a mile head of us, a hill which ap-
peared to connect the two banks of the river, and in
which the waters seemed to lose themselves. The farther
we advanced, the more rapid the stream became. Soon
not far from the hill, the foaming crests of the waves ap-
peared, which were doubtless the beginning of the rapids.
"' What shall we do ? " said Mr. R., " do you think we
should land in order to examine the rapi Is before running
them." " Yes, let us land," said Mr. G. anci I together, " we
must not be imprudent." " What ! " exclaimed Mr. M.," one
would think you had never seen a rapid." Notwithstand-
ing his protestation, we persisted in rowing towards the left
bank ; but instead of landing, we found ourselves on the
brink of the rapid, and descending stern foremost. It
was a critical moment ! With a few vigorous strokes ot
the paddle, Mr. R. turned the boat, and a moment later,
we were in the rftidst of the rapids with the waves boil-
ing and surging on every side. Once a huge wave, rising
several feet above the level of the boat, came dashing

towards us and I thought we would surely be swamped,
10

154 Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

But tfie boat arose as the wave approached, and we escaped
with only a plentiful shower — both Mr. J. and myself
did our best to assist Mr. R. in command of the boat, and
avoiding the rocks against which the waves dashed with
fury, then recoiled upon themselves and turned abruptly
to the right.

Having passed this rock, we were out of danger, and Mr.
M., who had affected to despise the rapids of the North-
West, was compelled to admit that this one was suffi-
ciently dangerous to satisfy his love of adventures.

Before reaching the junction, we had still five rapids
to run, and two of them proved more dangerous than that
we had just run. But at two o'clock we had safely passed
them all, and landed at a grove to dine.

The Cole Eapids extend a distance of about ten miles,
and between two consecutive rapids there is on an aver-
age a distance of one mile. At the bottom of each rapid,
as we have seen from the first, there is a hill which serves
as a signal of approaching danger. The steamboats as-
cend these rapids by means of the capstan and cables
fastened to trees along the banks. This explains why it
takes four days for them to go from the junction to Prince
Albert, although they descend them with amazing
rapidity.

I would advisi-^ all travellers who wish to examine that
natural phenomenon, to follow our example by taking a
row boat as the steamers descend too swiftly to permit
one to observe it closely.

At half past two, we resumed our journey, and soon

^ix Years in the Canadian North-West 155

reached the junction of the two branches of the Saskatch-
ewan, where there are a few houses, among which, one
discovers the one Captain Butler had built during his
journey to the northern regions. The reason he built
that house was that he thought that the Canadian Pacific
Railroad would cross the Saskatchewan at that place ;
and his belief has been shared by a great number of colo-
nists who have settled there.

The two branches of the Saskatchewan form a large
river, and its swift current, together with the strokes of
the oars, sent us along with great velocity.

About five o'clock that evening, we saw before us on
the right bank of the river, a volume of smoke ascending
from a wood. We steered for it, thinking it was Fort £t
la Come. Fastening our boat to a tree, we ascended the
bank, entered the wood and soon came to a cabin, which
indicated the presence of Indians and half-breeds. Near
the cabin was an inclosure, in the centre of which was a
fire from which issued the smoke we had seen ; and out-
side of which stood a number of cattle, greatly tormented
by the mosquitoes. Ai'oused by their dogs, the inhab-
itants came out, and seemed not a little terrified by our
presence. We spoke to them in English, French, and
Cree, but without avail, and we were compelled to return
to our boat, without obtaining any information.

A little further on, we came in view of a group of
houses, on the left bank which led us to believe that we
had already passed Fort ^ la Corne, which, according to
the instmctions we had received at Prince Albert, was

156 Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

situated on the right bank of the river, and was the first
settlement we would meet after leaving the junction.
But very soon the Fort which a projecting point had pre-
vented us from seeing, came into view, and we saw be-
fore us a stockade built of hewn timlter, within which
was the Fort, the whole surrounded by woods. It was
seven o'clock when we landed, and we proceeded at once
to the house of Mr. Goodfellow, director of the Fort, who
offered to entertain us. He is a man about fifty years of
age, endowed with a wonderful memory, and thoroughly
versed in the geography of the Saskatchewan. After the
experience of the day, we thought it would be well to
take a guide the rest of the distance, and inquired of Mr.
Grood fellow if he knew one whom he could recommend.

" A guide," said he, " you can easily do without one ;
for, although you are unacquainted with the river, I will
give you all the information necessary to carry you safely
through."

After a moment of reflection, he continued : " By row-
ing well, you can reach Grand Rapids in five days. To-
morrow, by setting out early and travelling aJl day, you
will reach Birch Islands, where it will be hard for you vo
find a favourable place for camping, because, at present,
the river overflows the banks. Below Birch Islands you
will find the Tobin Rapids which you will easily run.
Farther down, on the left bank, you will see Paskatinow
Hill where you can take dinner. On leaving this place
always keep along the right bank ; for a few miles far-
ther, at Mosquito Point, the river divides into two princi-

Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat.

157

pal branches, of which the one on the left would take you
Into the Sturgeon River, and from there into Lake Cumber-
land where you would inevitably lose yourselves. In one
day, by rowing vigorously, you will reach a cabin on the
left bank three or four miles from Lake Cumberland,
where you can pass the night, since it is uninhabited and
the doors are always open. Then, one day will take you
to Pas Mission where the employees of the Hudson Bay
Company will esteem it a pleasure to give you more
exact information. After leaving Fas Mission in one day
you will reach the Indian Colony at the entrance of Cedar
Lake. Between Pas Mission and this lake the river, in
some places, divides into several branches. Always take
the first to the right, for the others lead into vast swamps,
among aquatic plants, out of which it is difficult to extri-
cate one's self. Below the Indian Colony you will enter
Cedar Lake and coast along its left shore as far as the
entrance of a large bay, whence, if the atmosphere is
clear, you will see Rabbit Point, towards the extremity of
which you will steer. On turning this point you will
re-enter the bed of the river, and in a few hours you will
be at Grand Rapids."

Just as Mr. Goodfellow ended speaking a half-breed
woman announced that supper was served.

" I am really sorry, gentlemen," said the Director, " that
I can offer you nothing but dry meat. The Fort has
never been so scantily provided with provisions. I hope
th^t the director of Fort Cumberland whom I expect

158

Six Years in the Canadian Xorth-West.

every moment, will bring me some supplies, otherwise I
shall not know what to do until the Northcote arrives."

We thought it our duty to refuse this generous invita-
tion, and returned to the boat, intending to invite the
director to supper ; but a disagreeable surprise awaited
U8 there, the bread, the meat, and part of the butter had
disappeared. Mr. M., who could never control his temper,
began to storm against the inhabitants of Fort k la Come,
whom he denounced as thieves. I hesitated to coincide
with his opinion, not thinking the Indians and half-breeds
capable of committing such an audacious theft, and I was
right ; for beside the boat, on the bank, I saw some dogs'
tracks which I showed to my companions, and the dogs
proved to be the real thieves. On making examination,
we had yei remaining some potatoes, ten pounds of but-
ter, and the hundred pound sack of flour. Mr. M. de-
clared that he was tired of this pleasure voyage, and that
he would go no farther. We made him understand, not
without difficulty, that sick as he was, and unable to pro-
cure the necessaries of life, it was better for him to come
with us, since, in a few days, we would reach Grand
Rapids. He ended by embracing our opinion, and we
pitched our tent for the night.

The next day, at three o'clock in the morning, we re-
sumed our journey, resolved to reach Birch Islands before
night. As on the preceding day, Mr. R took the helm,
Mr. G. and I. the oars, while Mr. M. indicated the direc-
tion to follow. The weather was splendid, and the skiff
shot forward rapidly ; hence our good humour, which had

Six Years in tlie Canadian North-Wesi.

159

been disturbed by the loss of our provisions, returned at
the thought that we were soon going to meet the director
of Fort Cumberland, I'rom whom we could buy supplies.

Mr. M., who was on the look out, perceived ahead of us
four canoes which were ascending the cuiTent. At first
sight, we thought it was the director of Fort Cumberland
but we soon discovered, to our great disappointment, that
they were Indians on their way to Fort a la Come with
canoes laden with various kinds of furs which they were
going to exchange for merchandise. We, landed, and Mr.
M. asked them in Cree, if they had any meat for sale.
Poor wretches ! they were quite surprised at such a ques-
tion ; for they had eaten nothing for two days. We gave
them a few pounds of flour, and in return they left us a
beaver skin.

About nine o'clock, we reached Pinnacle Bend, where
there are three consecutive rapids which we ran without
difficulty, as they for length and danger cannot be com-
pared to Cole Rapids.

From Fort a la Come, the banks of the river become
gradually lower until at Birch Islands they are submerged
and accordingly we landed at the foot of these rapids,
fearing that farther on we should not find so convenient
a place to dine. We hoped to pass Birch Islands that day
but we had not taken into account a violent wind which
arose in the afternoon, and which retarded the progress of
the boat. This delay disappointed us, Mr. M. who could
not accustom himself to our low diet, was especially af-
fected by it

160 Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

About five o'clock in the afternoon, we noticed that
the farther we advanced, the wider the river became and
its banks were covered with birch wood. This was an
evident proof that we were not far from Birch Islands.

"My friends," said Mr. M., "if we are without meat
this evening, it will bo our own fault. Very probably,
we shall encounter some bears crossing the river. These
encounters are very frequent, if we can believe the tra-
vellers who have visited this part of the country. Pre-
pare yourselves for a hunt."

Mr. M. was right, for we soon saw, about a mile ahead
of us, a black object, crossing the river, which proved to
be a bear. Mr. R. and I. undertook the management of
the ^ lat, while Mr. G. armed with an axe, placed himself
in the prow, to knock the animal in the head, as soon as
he should get within reach.

" Under present circumstances," said Mr. M., " a bear-
steak is not to be despised. As it would take some time to
skin the animal and prepare the meat, I propose that we
go no farther for to-day." " Not so fast Mr. M." answered
I, " don't sell the skin of the bear before killing him." At
the same instant, the prow of the boat struck the animal.
Mr. G. with great " sans-froid," dealt him two blows with
the axe upon the head ; but the bear, although a little
stunned, continued to swim towards the shore. Mr. O.
had neglected to strike with the edge. He was preparing
to do so, when the axe, slipping from his hands, fell into
the water, " Strike him with the oars " exclaimed Mr.
M. when he saw the bear was getting away from us.

Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 161

But tbd animal was already too far. Mr. R then handed
him his gun, which, loaded with shot, produced no effect'
After reaching the shore the bear looked at us for a mo-
ment and then disappeared in the forest.

" Well," said I to Mr. M., " do you find the bear-steak
palatable ? " Mr. M., who did not relish the jest, dwelt
greatly upon our situation which was becoming more and
more critical, for we had scarcely any provisions and no
axe to cut wood. But he was reassured a little by the
fact that Mr. R had a revolver, with which we probably
could procure some game.

About sunset, we arrived at Birch Islands, which ex-
tend a distance of about t-en miles. As their name indi-
cates, they are covered with birch trees, with the bark of
which the Indians construct their canoes. We sailed
along these islands, following the right shore ; and we
were overtaken by night before reaching the lower ex-
tremity. These islands being almost entirely submerged,
it was difficult to find a dry spot to camp. For a while
we thottght of letting the boat drift, but such a course
would have been very imprudent, as the Tobin Rapids
w^ere a short distance below. After a great deal of search-
ing, we found at last a spot somewhat dry which we ren-
dered comfortable by means of branches. We slept very
little that night, being nearly devoured by the mosquitoes
which, in this region, are almost equal to young grass-
hoppers in size.

At three o'clock n*>xt morning, we put off, and soon
reached the lower extremity of the islands, from wheuQQ

162 Six Years in the Canadian Noiih-West.

the roar of the rapids is distinctly heard. We easily ran
these, and landed at the foot of them, to take breakfast.
About ten o'clock we arrived in sight of Mosquito Point,
in the neighbourhood of which there are some sand- banks.
The river, which is here very wide, divides into two
branches. We took the one to the right, according to the
directions of Mr. Goodfellow, and on turning Mosquito
Point, we were assailed by a very strong wind, which,
blowing against the current, raised formidable waves.
We advanced very slowly, and therefore despaired of
reaching Cumberland the same evening.

The branch of the river, which we had entered, was be-
coming more and more narrow, and my travelling com-
panions (especially Mr. R.) were of the opinion that we
had taken the wrong route, and it would be necessary for
us to retrace our steps. I interfered in order to express
an opinion altogether different.

" We are," said I, " only following the directions given
us. If we are not in the right way, we have been de-
ceived, which is a very improbable supposition, since the
information obtained up to the present moment, although
emanating from different sources, agrees in every point."
" I am far from thinking" replied Mr. R, " that Mr. Good-
fellow and the inhabitants of Prince Albert wanted to de-
ceive us ; but I notice that the river is gi*adually getting
narrower, and is taking us to the south, instead of to-
wards the east as the map indicates." " You forget," said
I " th. « we are just rounding Mosquito Point, and, in that
case I would not be at all surprised, even if we turned to-

Six Years in tJie Canadian Korth-West

103

wards the south. It is impossible to mark on the map
all the windings of a river."

My arguments were not able to convince them. For
a long time, I opposed every thought of turning biick >
but, obliged to yield to the opinion of the majority, I in-
sisted on waiting; half an hour, promising that if, at the
end of that time, nothing indicated that we were on the
right way, I would concur in their opinion. They regret-
fully granted me that request ; but they had no reason to
repent of it, for soon we perceived on the right of the
river, some piles of wood which the Hudson Bay Com-
pany had prepared for the steamboats. We were there-
fore on the right way. By retracing our steps, we would
have taken, at Mosquito Point, the branch to the left
which would have led us into Sturgeon River which we
had been particularly cautioned to avoid.

The day was drawing to a close, and we had not yet
perceived the cabin of which Mr. Goodfellow had spoken
of. It was strange ; for we had travelled rapidly the
whole day, and, according to the map we had with us,
the distance from Fort S. la Come to Birch Islands is
equal or about equal to that between these islands and
the cAbin. Mr. M. and G. expressed the opinion that we
had already passed it. As for Mr. R., he still adhered
to the idea that wo were astray, and that we would be
obliged to go back. He therefore was not a little sur-
prised next day, after an hour's rowing, to see on the left
bank of the river a cabin built of hewn logs. This struc-
ture is used to receive the s\ipplies brought by the North-

164 Six Years in the Canadian North-Wesi.

cote, and intended for Fort, Cumberland situated on the
lake of that name. This Hudson Bay Company's Fort is
connected with the cabin above mentioned by a small
stream hardly deep enough to carry small boats.

Mr. R. proposed that we should row up to Fort Cum-
berland and lay in another supply of provisions ; but we
thought it better to continue our journey, and try to
reach Pas Mission that evening.

From Cumberland to Pas Mission, the banks of the
river were completel}'' submerged, and crowded with float-
ing trunks of trees, having the form of rafts. It was on
these logs that we prepared and took our meals, and this
is how these rafts are formed. At the time of high water,
in the part of the river, lying between Prince Albert and
the Rocky Mountains, gi'eat land slips occur on the steep
banks, whose trees are uprooted, and carried away by the
current. In those places where the river is en a level
with the banks, it is enough that one end of the tree be-
comes entangled in the aquatic plants in order to stop
the others, and form a kind of raft.

Night came without anything occuning to indicate the
proximity of Pas Mission. Thinking that it was not
prudent to camp on the rafts, we continued our journey,
and towards ten o'clock, we saw some fire on the right
bank of the river. We steered towards it, and found
, there were some Indians camping there. Mr. M. asked
them how far we were from Pas Mission. They replied
that we would soon bo there. With the Indians " soon''
mav signify two days as well as two hpura. Midnight

Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 165

arrived and no dwelling was in sight.: We began to
think we had passed Pas Mission, and, at all events, it
was time to take some rest. So, after having landed, and
iastaned our boat to a tree, we went to sleep in the bot-
tom of the boat.

At two o'clock next morning we set out again, and, at
daylight, we came in sight of some houses and a large
lake. Taking this lake for Cedar Lake and the houses
for the Indian Colony, we started towards these dwellings
in hope of buying some fish from the Indians. We found
nobody within the house we entered, but the fire burning
on the hearth proved to us that the owners were not far
oft'. After waiting there for a while and being resolved
to wait no longer, we were starting towards another
house when we saw two Indians coming towards us.
They were returning from fishing and had with them a
great quantity offish, some of which they exchanged with
us for flour. We asked them if that large sheet of water
was Cedar Lake.

" My white brothel's are distant from it," answered the
oldest of the two. " What my brothers see is not a lake
but. a plain which the river overflows when the water is
high. My brothers see at the extremity of this the houses
of Pas Mission."

Aft€r breakfast we took leave of the Indians and re-
sumed our journey, and an hour later we landed on the
right bank, in front of the Hudson Bay Company's fort,

CHAPTER XVII.

Future of this Colony— A Second Lesson on Geography completing the First
— A Bad Adviser— Gone Astray— Lost ! — One Pastime as Good as Another
— On the Bight Boad Again — Cedar Lake— Our Arrival at Babbit Point.

THE Pas Mission Settlement is one of the most popu-
lous in the North- West Territories, The inhabi-
tants, almost aU Indians and half-breeds, dwell on the
banks of the river, in cottages built upon rocks^ and are
thus safe from the floods. The Hudson Bay Company's
Fort, which is the landing place of the Steamboats, is sit-
uated at the mouth of the Carrot River, which waters a
vast and fertile region, and it is my opinion that, in a
very short time, the tide of emigration will flew towards
those parts, where a Province will probably be formed
with Pas Mission for its capital.

Having landed, we followed the directions of Mr. Good-
fellow, and went towards the Hudson Bay Company's
Fort, where we met its director, who gave us a hearty
welcome. Some travellers have related, and still relate,
that the ofticers of the Hudson Bay Company are inhos-
pitable ; but this is a sheer slander. The director of the
Fort, who frequently goes to Grand F^epids, gave us very
definite information about the part of the river we had

Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West.

167

still to travel. He was quite surprised that we had dared
to descend Cole Rapids in such a frail bark.

" You have yet to run," said he, " the most dangerous
and imposing rapids, and if you are afraid of forgetting
my instructions, I will write them down for you."
"It is not necessary," we replied, "give them orally."
After a moment's reflection, he continued : " From here
to Cedar Lake, the banks being submerged, it will be dif-
ficult for you to camp. It is already nine o'clock ; I doubt
very much whether you can reach the lake before night.
Five or six miles from here, the river divides into two
branches of which you will take the smaller to the right.
By following the other you would also arrive at your des-
tination, but as it is longer, you would lose time use-
lessly. After a pretty long course, these two branches
unite again. Farther on, the river separates into several
branches which unite to only separate again. Always take
the first branch to the right even if it be smaller than the
others which lead into immense lakes formed by the over-
flowing of the river. If you travel during the night, let
one of you keep watch in order to avoid going astray. As
for houses, you will only meet with the Indian Settle-
ment of Cedar Lake. If the weather be fine, you can
enter the lake without danger, and coasting along the
left shore, you will thus arrive at the entrance of a large
bay, whence you will see Rabbit Point, which appears to
be separated from the right bank, by a canal through
which the current of the river flows. You will steer for
this point, and after turning it, you will follow the left

168

Six Years in ilte Canadian North- West.

shore. Two or three hours afterwards, you will see that
the river divides into two branches. Take the one to
the left. Beware of taking the other, which would lead
you into rapids where you would infallibly founder. Af-
ter entering the left branch, you will hear the roaring of
the *' Demi- Charge" which is at the entrance of Cross
Lake. Advance carefully, and when near the rapids, land
on the left bank, then following a foot-path which extends
along the shore, you will let the boat descend by means
of two ropes attached, one to the stern, the other to the
prow. Before entering Cross Lake, the river separates
into three branches, forming as many rapids ; but that
which you will follow by keeping along the shore, is the
least dangerous. You will re-embark at the foot of the
" Demi-Charge," and, after crossing the lake, you will
reach Little Red-Rock Rapid, which you will run without
diiliculty. From there you will hear the noise of the Red
Rock Rapid, which you will run, keeping close to the right
shore. From the foot of this last rapid, you will see, at
some distance, on the left bank, the Hudson Bay Company's
Fort, situated above Grand Rapids, which is the end of
your journey."

The directions of the director of Pas Mission com-
pleted those of Mr. Goodfellow, who had not spoken of
the rapids lying on our route.

j!i.i ten o'clock we set out again, and as the director
said, we soon arrived at the point where the river forms
two branches. That to the right is so small, that we
thought it was not the right one. We took it, however,

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

169

in order to follow the instructions received, and we did
not regret it, for it proves to be the right one. Two hours
later, we rejoined the left branch.

According as the distance from Fas Mission increases,
the banks of the river become gradually lower. At night-
fall, we wished to camp, but there was not a single tree
to which we could moor the boat. Around us, lay an
immense lake, streaked here and there with strips of
aquatic plants. After deliberating as to the best course
to pursue, we agreed to travel all night, allowing the boat
to drift; only, it was decided that, not to deviate from our
instructions, we would keep watch, each in his turn. It
fell to my lot to be the first on watch, and after me, came
Mr. R. I had just gone to sleep, when he awakened us
suddenly, exclaiming that we had entered a channel to
the left, and that consequently, it was necessary to go
back.

" One soon finds out when Mr. R. is on sentry." said
Mr. M. For two consecutive nights, we have hardly slept.
Can't we, at least, rest this one night ? "

" If I have awakened you," replied Mr. R., " it is be-
cause we have just taken a direction which we were
carefully recommended to avoid."

" We have just taken ! " retorted Mr. M., " say rather,

* I have taken. It is you who are on guard. Besides, by

following the channel which, like the others, must

end at Cedar Lake, we cannot help arriving there. In

the meantime, talk no more about directions given or re-

170

Six Vears in the Canadian Nmili-WeM.

ceived ; if the inhabitants of this country heard us. they
would imagine that we don't know anything."

I was ah'eady at the oars, but after the objurgation of
Mr. M., I did not tliink it proper to interfere, in order to
return. A short while afterwards. Mr. R. awoke me,. say-
ing to me in French, " there i.s only three feet of water."
I got up and asked him what he thought of the situation.
" We have done a veiy foolish thing," said he, *' in follow-
ing the advice of Mr. M., I greatly fear we shall repent
of it."

I took the oars, in order to go faster, for, according as
we advanced, the current became less rapid. The depth
of the water decreased in the .same proportion, and soon
the boat touched bottom. Notwithstanding the dark-
ness which enveloped us, we thought we saw before us, a
vast sheet of water which Mr. M. declared to be Cedar
Lake.

" You see now" said he, " that by following anj- direc-
tion whatever, one always comes out all right. Now rest
yourselves. At day break wc shall steer for the Indian
settlement where we will buy enough fish for the whole
day. I hope to breakfast to-morrow on board the Col-
ville at Grand Rapids."

At daybreak, I got up first, to see this lake so extolled
by Mr. M. But what was my disappointment, when, in-
stead of a lake, I beheld vast marshes covered at intervals
with aquatic plants. I awoke my comrades, who were
astonished to hear this news. We held a consultation,
before taking any definite action. I proposed that we

Six Years in the Canadian NoHh-West. 171

should g( back, although it would be a half day's work ;
but they said that, since we were so far, we must ad-
vance, and if possible, open a way through the aquatic
plants. Obliged to yield to the opinion of the majority,
we resumed our journey rowing towards the right, hoping
to find soon the bed of the river. But according as we
advanced, I noticed that the water, muddy as it was, was
becoming gradually clearer like marshy waler. From
this, I inferred that, instead of approaching the river, we
were going away from it, and I stated my fears to my
travelling? companions ; but they were so excited, that
they did not cease to advance, until, stopped by the reeds,
they told me that they resigned themselves entirely to
me. As I had rowed the preceding day, and the greater
part of the night, I felt fatigued ; so, giving the oars to
the others, I took the helm, and announced that we would
turn back. My decision was received without a murmur ;
for it was the wisest course to take after so many fruit-
less attempts. As we were retracing our steps, I thought.
I saw, at a great distance, some trunks of trees piled one
above the other. I then remembered those logs which
strew the banks of the river between Cumberland and
Pas Mission, and below this last settlement. From this,
I inferred that if they were trees, the branch of the river
that had drifted them was not far off. Nevertheless,
fearing I might be mistaken, I abstained from imparting
my reflections to my companions, but they soon made the
remark we were going to the right instead of going back,
as I had announced on taking the management of the

172 Six Years in tlie Canadian Nortfi-West

boat. " In ten minutes, at the latest," I exclaimed, " we
shall enter the bed of the river. That surprises you, but
you have the proof before your eyes."

" What proof?" said Mr.M. opening his eyes, and, look-
ing alternately to the right and to the left, forward and
backward, he declared that he did not see anything.

" Do you see those trunks of trees ? " said I, " Yes, but
what have they to do with the river," said he. " You
shall see," said I.

Hardly had we passed these logs, when a swift current
imparted a great speed to the boat. We were on a branch
of the river, and seeing a thicket on the other bank, we
steered towards it in order to take breakfast. The thicket
was submerged, and we were obliged to prepare our meal
as well as we could upon the floating tree trunks.

After breakfast which consisted of tea, bread and but-
ter, a discussion arose between Mr. M. and R., concerning
the cause of our going astray, which Mr. G. put an end to
by observing that we were not yet out of danger, and
that it was imprudent to lose time in useless discussions,
which might be better employed in trying to reach the
Indians of Cedar Lake, where we could purchase fish.

As Mr. G. observed, we were not yet at the end of our
troubles. A little farther the branch of the river in which
we were then divides into two others. We made the mis-
take of taking the left, and soon found ourselves in the
midst of a rapid which carried us to a lake several leagues
in circumference. We determined to coast along the
shores in order to find an outlet ; but, after rowing several

ti
olr

Six Years in tlte Canadian North- West.

173

hours without success, encountering nothing but reeds,
which encircled the lake, we came to the conclusion that
it was better to land somewhere to take some rest. The
difficulty was to tind a dry spot, and therefore I advised
my friends that we should row towards the middle of the
lake, whence we could have a better view. My sugges-
tion was followed, and before long, we perceived, some
miles ahead of us, a series of fir thickets. In the first
grove, to the right, stood a gigantic fir, whose mid
branches had been lopped off.

" Surely," said Mr. R., " he who climbed that tree, did
not take such dangerous exercise merely to amuse him-
self. He had a serious motive for doing so."

We steered towards this grove, and it was well we did,
for, half an hour later, a violent wind arose which raised
the waves, and exposed us to the greatest danger until
we approached the grove, which was surrounded with
reeds, through which it was impossible to propel the
boat. We were then sheltered from the storm, and Mr.
R, Mr. G., and I, fatigued by continued labour during two
days and two nights, fell asleep. Fortunately, Mr. M.
kept watch for us. He soon woke us up, exclaiming that
the wind was carr^'^ing us out into open water, and that
we must land at any cost. After sailing for some time
along the reeds we foimd a passage which conducted us
to the grove. It was in reality a kind of island, about
two miles in circumference, twelve feet high, and formed
of layers of rock. This was the first time that we had
camped on a dry place since leaving Fort a la Corne. So,

174 Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West.

forgetting our precarious condition, I took my blankets
and lay down in the shade of a fir.

Judging by the deep marks which the waves have left
on the shore, the grove which afforded us a shelter was
formerly an island situated in a permanent lake, whose
disappearance can be explained by the two following
causes.

Lake Winnipeg and Cedar Lake have a difference of
sixty feet between their levels, and are only about thirty
miles distant from each other ; hence the rapids which lie
between them. But, between these two lakes, ihe bed of
the river being constantly excavated by the waters, this
produces a corresponding fall in the level of Cedar Lake.
Moreover, by taking account of the successive alluvial
deposits from the river, one sees that a time will come
when Cedar Lake will have completely disappeared. The
.same causes will contribute to the disappearance of Lake
Winnipeg, whose waters, escaping by the Nelson River,
How into Hudson Bay, after a descent of seven hundred
and ten feet in a course of three hiindred and eighty
miles.

One can, therefore, affirm that the grove in which we
were camped, was formerly a permanent island, situated
in Cedar Lake, which extended as far as C*umberland>
judging from the alluvial deposits which cover that
re'jion, and its submersion by the river during the time of
the Hoods. Before long, this region will very probably
furnish rich pasture lands.

I had slept a few hours when I felt a hand iigl r>*

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

175

Iffc

touch ray shoulder, and, on turning, T saw Mr. M., who,
with a smile on his lips, informed me that Mr. R., from
the top of a tree, had seen the NoHhcote ascending the
river. We were, therefore, not far from l)eing on the right
road. I got up at one ^ i nd advised an immediate depar-
ture. Mr. G., 1 edifying the version of Mr. M., told me
that Mr. R. had seen the smoke of the steamboat. But
Mr. R,, coming down from his observatory, jut short our
preparations for departure by declaring that he was not
sure of having seen the smoke. We therefore pitched the
tent for the night and prepared enough bread for two or
three days in order to start early the next morning. Dur-
ing the night an impetuous wind arose which exposed us
to unexpected dangers. The trees, whose roots were not
very deep, were violently shaken and threatened to crush
us in their fall. It would therefore have been imprudent
to remain under the tent, so we went out and did not re-
turn until the storm was over.

At day-break we got ready to depart. The wind was
yet very high ; the waves breaking with fury upon the
rocks of the islands, and the sky was overaust with dark
lowering clouds which were going to resolve into rain.
Mr, R. and Mr. G. suggested to wait till the storm was
over, but Mr. M. and I were of the opinion that it was
better to face the waves than hunger. Mr. G. finally con-
curred with us, on condition that we should steer towards
a row of islands which appeared to be about thre»' miles
distant. So Mr. R. took the helm, and we set out. As
long as we were sailing amongst the high gra«se^ which

176

Six Year» in tfw. Canadian North- West.

suiTOunded the island, tlie waves did not seriouslv annoy
us, and we congratulated ourselves on our decision ; but
barely had we entered the sheet of water which separated
us from our goal, when the skiff' was tossed about by for-
midable waves. I don't know what my friends thought,
but as for me, if I had not feared to draw down upon me
a lecture from Mr. M., I would have proposed to turn
back. In this, I was obeying the dictates, not of fear, but
of prudence. For if the boat had capsized, even admit-
ting that we might have saved ourselves by swimming,
we would have lost everything, and rendered it iinpossr :.
to continue our journey. We maintained absolute silence
rowing vigorously, and keeping our eyes fi.xed on the
island, where we wished to land. In some places, the
water was no more than seven feet deep, and the bottom
was often visible between two consecutive waves. The
boat would disappear suddenly in the midst of the waves,
to rise immediately afterwards and again disappear.
Soon the wind became so vif;lent, we were not able to go
any farther; so we turned obli(|uely towards the left, and,
in a short time, we were sailing through the tall grass,
surrounding some islands, upon one of which we landed,
and found that it afforded us a sure slielter, although a
rapid cunent was running around it.

Once having pitched the tent, Mr. R. and I started in
search of a channel, notwithstanding the storm, which
w}is redoubling its violence. Our intention was to cir-
cumnavigate t)je islands, hoping to find some branch of
the river. We had groun<ls for KOieving that our search

Six Years in the Canadian North- West 177

would be successful on account, a»s I said before, of the
current which we had noticed around the island on which
we were encamped. But after many hours rowing
among high and almost impenetrable grasses, and the .sun
being low in the heavens, I proposed to Mr. R. to adjourn
our search till the morrow, and return to camp. To this
he agreed, and we successfully rejoined our friends, who
were becoming uneasy on our account.

The next day, the 3rd of July, we could neither go in
i^earch of the channel nor prepare our food in conso<|uence
of a pelting rain, and a violent wind, which continued
tmtil the afternoon of the 5th. Not expecting to remain
long on the road, we had not taken any books, which in
such a situation are a useful pastime. For want of books,
whilst my travelling companions held discussions, I passed
my time in solving mathematical problems, and this re-
creation was as good as any other. Mr. M., whose sonor
ous voice made itself heard incessantly, did not understand
my indifference in such circumstances, and seeing that I
held aloof from their discussions, he addressed me in the
following terms.

" Here we have been for two <lays, able neither to ad-
vance nor recede, instead of sharing our anxieties, you do
nothing but describe circles, trace planes and draw lines.
To what result will that bring you ? Have you found
the channels we are in search of ?" " I would like to
know," said I, " whether with your long discussions, you
are more advanced than 1. As soon as the weather will
permit of it, I will be the first to search for the channel."

178

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

In the afternoon of the 5th of July, the wind having
ceased, as I said above, Mr. R. and I put off in the boat,
and on turning the island, we perceived about half a mile
before us, a narrow channel through the aquatic plants,
and we resolved to take that direction the next day.

The Cth of July, at four o'clock a. m., we bid adieu to
the island. The weather was magnificent, and, in a mo-
ment, having crossed the sheet of water which separated
us from the high gra.ss, we entered the channel which ran
through the aquatic plants. This channel led to a rapid
which conducted us into another pond which my com-
panions wished to traverse lengthwise, while I proposed
to go ahead. Happily my advice was followed, for we
soon entered a branch of the river into which a great
nunibcr of channels empty. It was not long before the
river itself appeared, and at eight o'clock we landed at the
In«lian settlement, near a place where four or five half-
breeds were building a warehouse for the Hud.son Bay
Co. We immediately went to see the Indian chief, with
whom we exchanged some flour for sturgeon — and it was
time to change our diet, for, during six days, we had
been condemned to eat nothing but ciakes baked on a tin
plate in front of the fire, and butter. We tried also to get
an Indian guide, but,notwithstanding our advantageous of-
fers, no one would come with us.

After a plentiful repast, we resumed our journey, and
soon entered Cedar Lake and, though it was not calm,
we resolved to coast the loft .shore, according to our in-
structions. Sailing thus we reached, about two

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

179

o'clock in the afternoon, the Grand Bay, where we landed
on a island to dine. From there, we saw in the distance,
a point of land which extended so far into the lake that
it appeared to touch the right shore. We at first doubted
whether it was Rabbit Point.but we soon recognised it as
such ))y the description which had been given us. When
wo left the island the lake was calm, but soon a wind,
coming from the Grand Bay, arose and tossed the skiff in
such a manner, that, for an hour, we were in the greatest
danger. Mr. R. proposed that we should go back to the
island, but we refused to listen to his entreaties, fearing
that, for a good many days, we might have not have finer
weather, and in this we were right as the sequel will
show. Notwithstanding our utmost efforts, the day was
drawing to a clo.se, and a eonsideni ble distance separated
us from Rabbit Point ; we therefore steered towards tlie
point which appeared the nearest, and the sun was set-
ting when we landed there. The place where we dis-
emliarked was not favourable forcamping, as it was a nar-
row point of land, destitute of vegetable soil and covered
with rocks. After having selected a place, wo cleared it,
and then erected the tent for the night. But we were
not to enjoy any repose, assailed as we were by the mos-
quitoes, and by the waves which, in con.sequence or the
renewal of the storm, innn<lat(Ml our camping ground.

Dayliglit came, and the storm was still laging with
great fury. We held a consaltation as to which of the
two courses wc shtMild pursue : wait whore we were for
a calm, or resume our journey in order to reach Ral>bit

180

Six Years in tlie Canadian North- West.

Point from which we were separated by an hour's sail.
We agreed on the last course, fearing that, if we followed
the first, we might remain there blockaded for several
days by the bad weather. As we were starting, we re-
solved to keep close to the shore, in case the boat should
capsize ; but, on account of the numerous small bays
situated on our way, we soon perceived that, in following
such a courae, we would lose a great deal of time, and
therefore resolved to sail before the wind, in a straight
line, towards Rabbit Point. The more we advanced, the
more threatening the waves became, so much so, that
some of them were filling up the boat. The situation
was critical, but none of us lost for a moment his " sang-
froid," and, while my companions directed the boat, I
baled out the water according as it poured in. After
exerting our utmost efforts, we at last neared Rabbit
Point ; but great disappointment was awaiting us there ;
for, instead of the river which we expected to meet, we
saw something like a prolongation of the lake where the
waves were more menacing than elsewhere. We ap-
proached the Point in order to land, but we found this
impossible in consequence of the rocks being on a level
with the water, and througli which the waves prevented
us from guiding the skiff. We therefore had to turn
the Point, and struggle with the waves in order to reach,
a few hundred yards further on, a sniall bay which could
att'ord us shelter. In this we succeeded, and pitched the
tent, having resolve*! to await the end of the storm l»eforo
resuming our journey.

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

181

According to our instructions, we should have felt the
current of the river at reaching Rabbit Point, but this
was far from being the case, for, as we have seen, we had
to row with all our might to make any headway at all.
Therefore Mr. R. was of opinion that this point was not
Rabbit Point, but some point on Mossy Portage which
separates Cedar Lake from Lake Winnipegoosis. For
my part, I did not share his idea, and I accounted for
the existence of the formidable waves we had encountered
in turning the Point by the wind blowing against the cur-
rent and giving, as a most striking proof, the waves with
which we were assailed on turning Mosquito Point. Mr.
K. ended by thinking I was right, and we all congratula-
te 1 ourselves that we were not far from the end of our
journey.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure from Rabbit Point— Bad Ailvice and Lost Ap^'ain for Two Days
—Demi-Charge Rapid— Pigmy and Giant— Our Arrival at Orand Kapids
— A Word on That Colony— Some Advice for the Canadian (iovemniont
— Reaching the Far North- West from Winnipeg, via the Lakes Manitoba,
WinnipegooHis, and Cedar.

THE 9th of July found us encamped at Rabbit Point,
and the storm, which abated only for a short time at
night, was still raging with fury. Something had to be
done, as our provisions 'were almost exhausted, and the
best course to pursue we could see was to resume our
journey, if we did not wish to die of hunger. Accordingly
we set sail keeping along the left shore, as we had been
instructed, struggling manfully with the storm. We had
been travelling in that manner for an hour, when, a mile
ahead, we saw, in a birch canoe, an Indian coming towards
us. In our situation this chance meeting was a very wel-
come one, for we hoped to obtain from him some informa-
tion, and perhaps some provisions. As soon as he was
within call, we hailed him ; but whether from fear, or
some other motive, he paddled as fast as he could for the
bay, which is separated from Cedar Lake only by a half
mile portage, thus avoiding a long circuit.

After setting out from an island on which we had

Six yWirti in the Ganaduin Korth-Weat.

188

(lined, we came directly in sight of alluvial deposits where
the sheet of water in which we were travelling from Rab-
bit Point, divided in twobraufhes. " My friends," said I,
" this alluvial soil is an incontestable proof that we are in
the bed of the river. The question is, which of the
branches we ought to take. I propose that wo take the
one to the left."

" I agree with you," said Mr. R., " for, notwithstanding
the wind and the waves, it seems to me that the current
is carrying us in that direction. Moreover, in doing .so,
we shall only follow our instructions."

But Mr. M. expressed a different opinion. Taking the
map, he showed us, below Cedar Lake, a small bay which
he believed to be the left branch we wanted to take.
Therefore he recommended the right branch as being the
one we should follow. As Mr. G. appeared indifferent in
the matter, the advice of Mr. M. was followed, but on
condition, that, if in two or three hours we were not sure
of being in the right way, we would return to the delta
to take the left branch.

Impelled by the wind and the oars, we sailed very
quickl}'^ and soon found ourselves among rocky islands,
most of them covered with firs, but presenting on their
shores no trace of alluvial deposits. This was an infal-
lible proof that we were getting further and further away
from the bed of the river. I communicated my fears to
my travelling companions, but they answered that they
would keep the same direction as long as the boat would
iloat.

184

Sue Years in tlie Caruidian North-West.

Towards evening the sky became cloudy, and the thun<
der began to roar in the dbtance ; everything foreboded
a violent storm. Our situation became still more critical
when Mr. R., who was at the helm, announcetl that he
heard the roaring of a cataract.

" It is to a certainty the Demi-Charge," said Mr. M.,
turning towards me, as much as to say we were in the
right way. We ceased rowing ; we thought really that
we heard in the distance a dull and confused noise.
Therefore we steered immediately towards the nearest
island in order to land.

" What ! " exclaimed Mr. M., making a jump on his seat
which almost capsized the skiff, " after having lost more
than a week among the islands of Cedar Lake and at
Rabbit Point, you want, on account of the Demi-Charge,
to lose another day ? I will not consent, and I give you
to understand that I will reach Grand Rapids this very
night."

Without taking any notice of Mr. M.'s protestation.s, we
continued to steer towards the island. But what was our
astonishment when, the weather clearing up, we tjaw we
were travelling in swampy water ; evident proof that we
were miles and miles away from the river. Aa for the
noise which led us to believe that we were approaching
the Demi-Charge, we no longer heard it after the storm.
As it was useless to go any farther in that direction, we
started on the way back, and, at night-fiedl we camped on
a island covered with gigantic fir trees. Mr. R. made an
observatory of the highest one, but his efforts to find out

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

185

where wo stood proved unsuccessful on account of
the sunounding country boing covered with trees of
higher stature. Sleep that night was out of the 'juestion,
and how could it be otherwise, having, for provisions, only
a few pounds of flour, which, with the strictest economy,
would not last more than four days.

At half past two, next morning, tvo put off. Mr, M,
very much affected l>y the mistake of the preceding day,
declared that, from that moment, he would not giv(^ any
advice about which way we should, or should not take.
We travelled pretty fast as long as we were sailing among
islands, but when we came to the open water, our pro-
gress was very slow, a.s we had the wind and the waves
to contend with ; so that it was only after six hours of
hard rowing that we reached the Delta. In leaving this
place, Mr. R, demanded the control of the boat for two
hours only, promising that if, at the end of that time,
we had not reached the Demi-Charge, he would resign his
tnist to somebody else. His demand was granted ; and,
sailing along the left shore, we carefully scrutinized all the
bays which were large enough to conceal an outlet. Be-
fore long, we aiTived at the entrance of a bay delineated
on the map, having no name, but which I shall call
" Hunger Bay," in remembrance of the hunger which wo
there experienced. As the entrance of this bay was nar-
now, Mr. R. was led to believe the river was running
through it, and therefore steered the boat into it. Always
coasting the left shore, we went to the farthest end of

tlie bay, l)ut there, no outlet was found. These fruitless
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186 Six Years in the Canadian North-West

attempts discouraged at last Mr. R. He declared that
he not only renounced the direction of the boat, but the
same as Mr. M. the giving of any opinion. This avowal
from the mouth of such an energetic man discouraged me
not a little, and Mr. G. refusing to take his place, this
duty devolved upon me. 1 therefore took the helm, and
announced that the day would be devoted to making in-
vestigations ; but that if, night having come, we had not
found the river again, we would return to the Indian
Settlement of Cedar Lake, where we would await the
arrival of the Northcote.

Aided by the wind, we were soon at the mouth of the
bay, whence we turned to the left, steering towards a fir
tree with its branches lopped off near the top, exactly
like the one we had seen the first day we went astray.*
I had remarked similar trees on some of the islands near
Rabbit Point and in the vicinity of the Indian Settlement
at Cedar Lake. It occurred to me that those lopped
trees indicated, perhaps, the channel followed by the
boats of the Hudson Bay Co. and I was not mistaken.
I learned it afterwards from one of the employees. The
more we advanced, the muddier the water became, a
proof that we were nearing the bed of the river.

" My friends," said I, unable to restrain my joy, " we
shall soon arrive at the Demi-Charge." "Stop your
everlasting arrive," interrupted Mr. M., " let us rather
find out where we are." " Come, Mr. M." said I, " we are
all four going to Winnipeg. I offer you a wager : if, in an
hour at the most, we have not entered the bed of the

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

187

raX

river, on our arrival at Winnipeg, I will pay for a dinner
for us four ; otherwise, you shall pay for it."

Mr. M. would doubtless have accepted my wager if he
had not noticed that the current was becoming percept-
ible. The banks, even, were not long in showing them-
selves, and we soon arrived at the point where the river
divides itself into two branches. According to the in-
structions received, we took the left, and now, what
occupied our minds was the Demi-Charge which was
not far off. We advanced slowly, listening to the least
noise, and observing attentively the windings of the river.
We were not long before we heard a dull noise in the
distance, which was made by the Demi-Charge. " Let
us land," said Mr. R, who was at the helm. " After hav-
ing twice lost our way, here we are at last safe and sound
at the end of our journey. Let us take care not to com-
mit any more imprudent acts."

"Do you want to make this journey last forever?" ex-
claimed Mr. M., starting from his seat. " The rapid is not
in sight, and you talk of landing! What for, if you
please ? Let us go on, we shall land soon enough."

We continued to advance. The rapid was not yet
visible, but judging by the noise which was becoming
more and more distinct, it could not be very distant
Mr. R. insisted upon landing, but Mr. M. obstinately re-
fused. Mr. G. and I. remained silent, thinking it would
be time enough to decide when we should be in sight of
the rapid.

188

Six Tears in the Canadian North-West.

" If you want to run the rapid," said Mr. R. at last, " do
so at your own risk, I will land."

He had hardly spoken these words, when, about 100
yards ahead, appeared the Demi-Charge, nolens-volens
we had to advance.

" Take the hehn," said Mr. R to Mr. M., " if we meet
with any misfortune, you alone will be responsible for it."

Mr. M. grew pale, but with admirable sang-froid, he
took the helm exclaiming : " pull hard." In the twinkling
of an eye, we shot into the midst of boiling, raging, whirl-
pools. Sometimes the prow of the boat disappeared in
the waves, sometimes the stern. The banks also appeared
and disappeared alternately. We rowed with all our
might, hardly breathing, the situation was so critical.
Before us, rose a column of water several feet high. To
avoid it, we turned slightly to the left. But not sufficient-
ly to prevent a jet d'eau from partly filling the boat. A
little farther, this branch of the river divides into three
other branches of which we took the first to the left
which is followed by the boats, and is the least danger-
ous. We arrived thus at the entrance of Cross Lake,
where we landed to empty the boat. "Behold the famous
Demi-Charge safely run," exclaimed Mr. M., " if you wish
we will also run the Grand Rapids."

The enthusiasm of Mr. M. was far from being shared by
any one of us, and especially by Mr. R. who, after we had
landed, proposed that we should examine the rapid in
following along the shore the footpath mentioned by the
director of Pas Mission. But the river being then high,

Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 189

we found this footpath overflown with the water, and,
unable to proceed any farther through the bush, we re-
turned to our landing-place.

Immediately after dinner, as we were drying our clothes
in the sun, which had been wet by the jet d'eau, above
ment'oned, we saw two men coming towards us in a birch
canoe. One of them was the Indian chief of the tribe at
Grand Rapids. ,He is a man of about forty years of age,
with a sharp intelligent eye, and very loquacious. The
beard, which adorns his chin, shows that some white blood
runs in his veins. He informed us that the Northcote
had set out from Grand Rapids that morning, and that it
would probably anchor that evening at the foot of Red
Rock rapid. From where we stood he showed us in fact,
on the other side of the lake, a lopped fir tree, and beyond
this tree, the smoke of the steamboat. We bought some
sturgeon from Lim, and this change of diet was most wel-
come, for, on dry bread, we were becoming gradually
weak.

After the chief had asked us the reason why we came
down the river in a rowing boat, he informed us that they
were going a little farther up the river to weed some po-
tatoes. This surprised not a little Mr. R,, who had not
yet recovered from his excitement, and he asked the Indian
how they were going to ascend the rapids.

" In the canoe, certainly," answered the chit-., surprised
at this question.

*' In the canoe ! how ? "

" By keeping along the bank, you willsee how."

190

Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

In fact the Indians got into the canoe and went away,
ascending the Derai-Charge, by following the sinuosities
of the shore. A bark canoe permits of evolutions impos-
sible for heavier crafts.

The next day, at five o'clock in the morning, we set out
again, steering towards the lopped tree which the Indian
chief had pointed out to us, on the other side of the lake.
The crossing, which is only of three miles, was effected with-
out danger ; for the lake was calm : a rare thing, because
the current of the Demi-Charge crosses it completely. In
fact, the wind blowing against the current is all that is
necessary to produce a storm capable of swamping the
largest boats. Hence tlie Indian chief had expressly re-
commended us not to set out if there was the least wind.

The river leaves the lake by many branches. We took
the first to the right, and soon reached Little Red Rock
Rapid, which is of little importance, and which we ran
without difficulty. From there we heard the roaring of
Red Rock Rapid, and a little farther down, on turning a
point, we came in view of the Northcote which was
ascending the rapid by following the right shore. There
was no time to lose ; we immediately steered towards the
right bank, rowing with all our might. We succeeded in
effecting a landing where the hauling cable of the North-
cote was attached. Our way of proceeding did not
please, in the least, Mr. M., and he went so far as to
threaten to run the rapids alone, but his threats came to
nothing, as he had the majority against him.

After having been there half an hour, ■ '3 noticed that

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

191

the steamboat did not appear to have stirred ; we there-
fore held a council about what course we should pursue.
Mr. R. was of opinion that the best for us to do was to
wait there, until the Northcote would have ascended the
rapid. This certainly was the safest course, but, in fol-
lowing it, how long would we have to wait there ? Pro-
bably the whole day, and Mr. M. argued that the best
thing to do was to resume our journey. To this, we all
finally agreed, excepting Mr. R. who resigned to Mr. G.
his place at the helm, not wishing to have any share in
this mad undertaking.

Having all re-embarked, we put off, and, in a few sec-
onds, we had reached the rapid. Seen from a distance,
our akifF resembled a pigmy running to measure its
strength with a giant. Afraid of a collision with the
Northcote, we turned obliquely to the left, and by this
measure, we ran into the heart of the rapid, where we re-
ceived such shocks that we forgot the preceding tossings.
The boat was carried to the summit of the waves in a
perpendicular direction, and plunged afterwards into the
abyss whence it emerged to mount the next wave. The
banks of the river appeared and disappeared in turns, and
we shot by the steamer like an arrow, at a distance of
about three hundred feet from her. The passengers, qui|,e
surprised to see four men resembling brigands, descend
the rapids in such a frail bark, began to speculate as to
the result of our undertaking. Some urged that we were
going to founder, but most of them had hopes of our final
success.

192 Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

Having anived at the foot of the rapid, we perceived,
on the left bank, the Fort of the Hudson Bay Company,
which is situated above the Grand Kapids. The wharf of
the Northcote is located here, and here ended our adven-
turous prank.

As soon as we landed, the director of the establishment
came towards us, thinking that we were part of the crew
of the Nortlicote, and that we were the bearers of news
from the boat. But he soon discovered his mistake. Our
tattered clothes and worn out shoes gave us the appear-
ance of four desperadoes who wanted to take possession of
the Fort. This was, I think, the opinion of the director,
judging by the frightened glances which he cast to-
wards the houses of the Company's employees, as if to
implore assistance. We soon reassured him by telling
him that he should not judge by appearances, and that all
we wanted was to buy some provisions.

The news of our arrival spread rapidly, and in the
evening, an Indian sold us a sturgeon which weighed
sixty pounds. He was accompanied too, by several
squaws, from whom we purchased a quantity of straw-
berries which they had gathered in the neighbourhood.
Our diet was thus changed as if by enchantment, and we
soon forgot our recent privation^ and fatigues.

. But for our delay at Rabbil Point, we should have ar-
rived in time to take the Colville, which had gone to
Stone Fort three days before. Before returning to Grand
Rapids, she had to make a voyage to Norway House, a
Hudson Bay Fort situated on Nelson River. This voyage

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

193

jd,

requires at least a week ; consequently we were obliged
to remain about ten days at Grand Rapids. Mr. M. sug-
gested that we should proceed to Winnipeg with the boat
in which we had displayed our prowess and madness, but
the rest of us took good care not to undertake this foolish
project

The Grand Rapids, which flow between two calcareous
banks, are a mile and a half long, and but for the rocks,
on a level with the water, which encumber the bed of the
river, the boats could ascend them in the same manner as
the other rapids. At the foot of these rapids, on the left
bank of the river, a mile above its mouth, there is a Hud-
son Bay Company's Fort, the landing place of the Colvt'Ue ;
and on the opposite bank, an Indian settlement which ex-
tends along the river from the Grand Rapids to Lake
Winnipeg. The inhabitants, except a few who are in the
service of the Hudson Bay Company, live by hunting and
fishing, the only means of subsistence which they have at
their command, for this region is essentially rocky, and is
unfit for the cultivation of cereals.

Recently the Hudson Bay Company has had a tramway
built, connecting the wharves of the Colville and the
Northcote ; and it is by means of this tramway, that
transhipment of merchandise brought by the Colville,
and intended for the North- West, is effected ; a process
more rapid, and less fatiguing than that formerly employed
by travellers, who themselves carried their luggage a dis-
tance of a mile and a hal£

It is only in July that the Northcote can set out and

194 Six Years in the Canadian Korth-West

this delay arises from two causes, the late breaking up of
the ice in Lake Winnipeg, and the insufficiency of the
tonnage of the Colville, which to load the Northcote, has
to make three voyages, each of which takes a week. The
second cause of delay would be easily obviated, by launch-
ing on Lake Winnipeg a boat of the same tonnage as the
Northcote, or several boats like the Colville. In sup-
posing that this should be realized, the Northcote would
not be ready to leave Grand Rapids before the first of
July, on account of Lake Winnipeg being not free of ice,
until about the middle of June. Therefore, notwithstand-
ing the best previsions, a journey from Winnipeg to Ed-
monton, via Grand Rapids could not be effected before
the latter end of July. .In the interests of colonization,
could there not be another way opened, other than the in-
convenient one, via Grand Rapids 1 There certainly could,
and it only remains to utilize it ; I mean the route, via
the Lakes Winnipegoosis and Manitoba.

The southern end of Lake Manitoba is about fifty
miles from Winnipeg, and this lake is connected with
Lake Winnipegoosis whose northern end is separated
from Cedar Lake by Mossy Portage which is only about
five miles long. With a railway from Winnipeg to Lake
Manitoba, steamboats on the Lakes Manitoba and Win-
nipegoosis, a railway or canal through Mossy Portage,
and steamboats on the Saskatchewan, one could rapidly
reach the North- West, thus avoiding the dangerous rapids
between Cedar Lake and Winnipeg. I say dangerous, es-
pecially ^in ascending them ; for if the tow cables break,

Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 1D5

there is nothing to prevent the boats from being wrecked
against the rocks along the shore : as witness the catas-
trophe which befel the Commissioner belonging to the
Hudson Bay Co., in 1873. This was the first steamboat
that appeared on the watera of the Saskatchewan, and,
on her firs voyage, as she was ascending the Demi-
Charge, the tow cables broke, an,d in a second, the
Commisiioner was broken in pieces against the rocks.
Happily, the crew succeeded in saving themselves.

Though the route, via Lakes Manitoba and Winni-
pegoosis, would be the best for colonists who wish to
reach the far North-West, we do not mean to say that
the route by Grand Rapids should be abandoned. On
the contrary, when the projected railway, connecting
Hudson Bay will be built, this will be the most econom-
ical and the most direct way of exporting to Europe the
grain from the Saskatchewan valley. The above is a
project which the government would do well to carry
into execution.

Our stay at Grand Rapids appeared very long to us.
We passed our time in fishing and picking strawberries.
Fish are plentiful at the foot of the rapids. In a quarter
of an hour, one can catch with a hook and line, more fish
than he can carry. Strawberries are no less plentiful ;
and I have often asked myself, if this region, though
rocky, might not be appropriated advantageously to the
cultivation of fruit. One would easily believe it, if one
considers that here the summer is pretty warm, and dur-
ing that season, night frosts are very rare, on account of

196 Six Years in the Canadian Nwth-West.

the composition of the soil, and the proximity of Lake
Winnipeg. Let us hope that our statesmen will take in-
to consideration a question so directly concerning the
future of the country.

iuko
i li-
the

CHAPTER XIX.

Departure from Grand 11 .. ids— Icelandic Settlement on Lake Winnipeg--
Selkirk— Our Arrivnl .t Winnipeg — Rapid Progiess of that Place since
1870 — En route T i' Ontft.-io— Ideas of Americans about Canada — Duluth
— Good Pastii..u on the La^'os — Visiting my Friends Once More — My
Arrival at Quebec and ou board of the Sarmatian, en route for Liverpool.

AFTER a week passed above the Grand Rapids, we
took the tramway for the wharf of the Colville
where, with the leave of the director of the Fort, we in-
stalled ourselves in the warehouse which is used to re-
ceive the cargo of the steamboat. These camping quarters
were far more comfortable than that of Mr. R., which
could hardly shelter us from the abundant showers of
rain, so froquent, in that region, at that season of the year,
Our stay ther'3 was not to be long, for, on the night of
the 28th, we were awakened by the director calling out
that the Colville was in sight. Hardly had we got up
and took out our baggage, when the steamer anchored,
and the unloading immediately began. This was com-
pleted the next morning at 11 o'clock and at 10 that
night, we weighed anchor, the Indians giving us a
parting salute from their guns, to which the Captain
replied by a whistle from the engine. This seemed to

198

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

please them greatly, if one can judge by their shouts
which they continued as long as we remained in view.

Being then only July, a cool night had succeeded the
tropical heat of the day. Not the least breath rippled
the surface of the lake, and the boat seemed to glide
upon a vast mirror. But from this, it must not be in-
ferred, that Lake Winnipeg is always calm ; for violent
storms sometimes arise which expose boats to the greatest
dangers ; and are increased by the shallowness of the lake
and the presence of rocky islands. Before retiring for the
night, I approached the Captain and asked him how long
it would take us to reach Stone Fort.

"If the fine weather continues" said he, "we shall be
there in thirty-six hours, that is to say, about ten o'clock
Saturday morning." This pnswer was all the more agree-
able to us, since we wanted to reach Winnipeg by Saturday
evening if possible.

The cabins of the Colville which, like those of the Lily,
contained each two beds, were not very comfortable ; but
we were better off with respect to bofird. As for the crew,
it was composed principally of Indians and half-breeds
speaking, I think, all the Indian dialects of Canada.

The next day in the afternoon, we arrived in sight of
Icelandic Settlement, which has been founded since 1875,
upon the southern shore of Lake Winnipeg. One asks one-
self with surprise, what those colonists were thinking of
to settle in such a place ; for that part of the country, taken
on the whole, is unsuitable for the culture of cereals. It
would have been better for them tp settle elsewhere, and

Six Years in the Canadicm North-West. 199

cultivate the soil on a large scale, than to get a precarious
living by fishing in Lake Winnipeg, and cultivating a few
rows of potatoes. Saturday, at daybreak we arrived at
the mouth of Ked River where we met the pilot who
was to take charge of the Colville as far as the Stone Fort,
I must say here, that the current of Red River is not
so swift as that of the Saskatchewan ; but its channel is
much more sinuous, hence it is very hard to follow it
when the water is muddy. Such was the case then, and
at one time, the pilot having swerved from the channel,
the trunk of a tree got entangled in the screw, and
stopped the boat. No harm was done, however, to the
machinery of the Colville, which soon resumed its course.
As for the pilot, all he had to endure was a few objur-
gations from the chief engineei-. We were not long be-
fore we came in sight of Selkirk, where we landed at
eight o'clock that morning.

We did not go to the Stone Fort with the Colville, as we
expected, having heard that we could reach Winnipeg
sooner by taking at Selkirk the morning train which
leaves for St. Boniface. Unfortunately after we had
landed, we learned that the train we intended to take
had already left, and there being no other train that day,
which we could take, we hired a carriage to take us to
Winnipeg in the afternoon.

Selkirk, which is of very recent origin, had made pro-
digious progress. The reason of this may be partly at-
tributed to the supposition that the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way, now under construction, was to pass through that

200

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

town. Selkirk contains hotels which would do honour
to Ontario or Quebec ; and publishes a weekly newspaper
called the Inter-Ocean. The prospects are that this town,
connected with Winnipeg by railway, situated on Red
River, and being in the centre of a very fertile district,
is destined to become a place of importance.

At three o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Wifini-
peg, eighteen miles distant. The road we followed lies along
Red River and passes through Stone Forfc, St. Andrews,
and Kildonan, Stone Fort comprises hardly anything but
the Hudson Bay establishment. As for St. Andrews and
Kildonan, they are prosperous, and rapidly growing. As
it was at the season of the year when the weather was
fine, and nature was clothed in all its beauty, our drive was
very agreeable, and we entered Winnipeg charmed with
the splendid panorama which, since leaving Selkirk, had
unrolled itself to our view. Mr. G. alighted at the house
of his relatives, Messrs. R. and M., and I took lodgings at
the Hotel du Canada.

Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, has a population of
about sixteen thousand souls, and is situated at the junc-
tion of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers. This city, which
was but a small village in 1870, has grown even more
rapidly than Chicago, the metropolis of the North- Western
States.

To give the reader an idea of the progress made by that
place since 1870, let us picture to ourselves the impres-
sions of an inhabitant of Winnipeg, who, at that time, had
gone to a foreign land, and is returning to-day to his na-

Six Years in the Canadian North-West

201

tive country. If he be in Canada or in the United States,
he takes a ticket for St. Boniface, situated opposite Win-
nipeg. Arrived at St. Vincent, he leaves the United
States to enter Manitoba. A thousand reminiscences
crowd into his mind at the sight of the vast plains on
which he had many a time hunted the buffalo. Bat what
impresses and grieves him, are the changes which have
taken place in those parts. Domesticated cattle have suc-
ceeded the buffaloes which have entirely disappeared ; the
virgin plains, under the effort of settlers, have been partly
converted into cultivated fields ; wigwams and cabins have
given place to elegant houses. Judge of the disappoint-
ment of our Manitoban ! The farther he advances, the
more he is pained by the changes that have taken place.
Finally the train stops, and they call out : " St, BonifEtce —
Winnipeg." He alights from the car, and looks around;
but the dwellings he beholds resemble in no wise the cab-
ins of former days. The church alone, where he attended
mass, and which has undergone no change, proves to him
that he is at the end of his journey. Mechanically, he
follows his fellow-travellers, and, with them, takes the
omnibus which crosses Red River, on a steam-ferry. They
pass before the principal hotels . of Winnipeg ; the omni-
bus gradually gets rid of the passengers. Our Manitoban,
finally left alone, asks to be driven to his home ; but the
omnibus conductor, who however is thoroughly acquainted
with the city, declares that he does not know his address.
This answer surprises a great deal our traveller. He asks
then to be taken to Fort Garry where, in former days, he
13

202

Six Tears in the Canadian North-West

used to sell his furs to the Hudson Bay Company. This
establishment has so well resisted the hand of progress
that our traveller finds at last where he is, and the place
where he was bom. But his father's home is no more,
and on its place is perhaps erected a magnificent building.
His discovery only adds to his regrets. His old friends
are dead or have emigrated to wild lands ; the steamboats
have replaced the canoes on Red River ; broad streets
have succeeded the narrow cart roads ; and houses, which
would do honour to a great city, the Indian wigwams and
the lo£r cabins of the half-breeds. All this is what has
been done in ten years ! What will be done in ten more?

After passing three days in Winnipeg, I started for
Ontario with Mr. M., who was still determined to make
his trans- Atlantic voyage. Mr. G. remained at Winnipt^,
and Mr. R was to return to Battleford.

In summer, one can go from W^innipeg '^o Ontario by
two different routes; the first and most expeditious by rail,
via St. Paul, Chicago and Sarnia ; the second, by rail,
from St. Boniface to Duluth, and from there by steam-
boat, several of which ply between Duluth and Sarnia,
In summer it is more agreeable to travel by boat than by
rail ; and for this reason and also because I def^xi.v.J to see
Lakes Superior and Huron, I chose the second.

On the 3rd of August, at seven o'clock a. m., we left
St. Boniface, and, in the afternoon, we entered the plains
of Minnesota. This country, sparsely populated in 1874,
is to-day almost completely colonized . Along the railway,
between St. Boniface and Duluth, one sees villages and

I :

Six Years in the Canadian North- West.

203

flourishing towns, of which the principal are : — St. Vin-
cent, Brookston, Glyndon, and Bminerd.

The Americans imagine that their country is superior
to all others. Among my fellow-travellers, one could
easily distinguish between the Americans, and others.
The former could not contain their admiration at the sight
of the rich fields of wheat which extended along the rail-
road. A* traveller, seated opposite to me, seeing that I
did not share in his enthusiasm, asked me if I knew a
country comparable to this :

"I know one," said I, "which is much superior."
" Superior ! " said he, " not in America, any way." " Yes,
in America," said I, " and in Canada, too." "I would like
to know which Province of Canada is more fertile than
Minnesota ? " " It is not a province," said I, "but a region
scarcely yet known. I mean the upper part of the North
Saskatchewan Valley."

It is evident the fertility of Minnesota is incomparable
in the eyes of him who has not visited the Canadian
North- West, Hence my indifference at the sight of a
country which had excited the admiration of the travel-
lers. They listened with a lively interest to all the de-
tails that I gave about the Saskatchewan region, the
natural richness of which was only partially known.
They did not understand how the Canadian Government
had left such a vast and fertile country so long in the
hands of fur-traders. Thus, unintentionally, I was per-
forming the functions of an emigration agent, for several

204 Six Years in the Canadian North-West.

I r

of the m seem disposed to sell their land in order to go
to the Canadian North-West.

The following day, at noon, the train entered Lruluth.
On our arrival, omnibuses conveyed the travellers, going
to Ontario, to the Quebec. This steamer was going to start
at night-fall, and, as I then had several hours before me, I
went after dinner to visit Duluth and its vicinity. Situat-
ed at the head of a bay called Fond du Lac, this city ex-
tends along the shore, and is backed by rocky, inaccessible
hills, which prevent it from developing in that direction.
Its longitudinal streets, disposed like an amphitheatre, are
well supplied with comfortable hotels. Duluth is still
prosperous, though its former prosperity is somewhat
diminished in consequence of the opeuings of railway con-
nection between Ontario and the North- West. But that
which will mark its decline, more particularly, will be the
completion of the railroad from Thunder Bay to Manitoba,
and which will be followed by travellers going from
Ontario to the North- West.

Towards evening I returned on board of the Quebec
which soon weighed anchor. All those who have travelled
on the boats of Lake Superior have been greatly pleased
with the comfort of them. Each cabin contains two
berths ; but they are much more roomy than those of the
Saskatchewan steamboats.

The passengers, most of whom were tourists, were not
very numerous. The feminine sex was chiefly repre-
sented by some American misses, who, from thejfirst day,
enlivened the company, by playing captivating pieces on

Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat. 205

g«

the piano. The mivjical faculty, which had been slumber-
ing in me for six years, suddenly awoke on hearing these
harmonious strains. What a contrast between the music
and the deafening uproar produced by the tambourine of
the savages. The latter I endured with difficulty ; the
former I heard with pleasure. The one grated upon my
ear ; the other excited my imagination, and awoke in me
a world of ideas and sentiments which I was not before
aware of. There is in music, even in secular music, some-
thing that elevates the soul and awakens in it the sense
of the Infinite. By music, as by poetry, we reach the
invisible, the immutable, the eternal. I almost reproached
myself for my voluntary exile among the Indians who
afforded so little attraction for any man accustomed to soci-
ety. But without this isolation I should not have gained
that experience, and made observations which I hope one
day to make known to the public. Like those bold tra-
vellers who, for a purely scientific object, leave family,
native land, and the advantages of civilization, to encoun-
ter unexpected and inevitable dangers, I have resolved,
after a study of the North- West of Canada, to relate some
day its natural riches, which are to-day being taken ad-
vantage of by thousands of colonists.

The third day we reached Sault Ste. Marie Rapid,
which separates Lake Superior from Lake Huron. To
avoid it a canal has been built through which the boats
pass. The next day, in the evening, we reached Samia.
There I parted with Mr. M. whom I arranged to meet in
Toronto. By the Grand Trunk I went, to London, where

206 Six Tears in the Canadian North-Weat.

I visited some friends whom I had not seen since 1873.
Three days later T started for Toronto. Mr. M. was not
at the rendezvous, and my endeavours to find him were
fruitless. So, after visiting Niagara, I set out for Quebec,
(passing by Ottawa and Montreal), where T arrived just
in time to sail for Liverpool by the Sarmatian.

Here ends the account of my adventures in the North-
Wesi

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