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a LL^^^^IB" 


THE 


HTDAH  MISSION 

QUEEN  CHARLOTTE'S  ISLANDS. 


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AN     ACCOUNT 

OF     THE 


MISSION     AND     PEOPLE, 


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LONDON: 

CHURCH  MISSIONARY  HOUSE,  SALISBURY  SQUARE,  E.G. 

SEELCV.  JaCKSOX  &  IlALLIDAY,  ESSEX  STREET,  StRAND,  W.C. 


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THE 


pnbal)  fission,  ^iiceii  Cljaiiotte's  |$hn!b$. 


QUEEN  Charlotte's  Islands  are  the  group  in  the 
North  Pacific,  named  after  George  the  Third's 
Queen,  and  on  them  dwell  the  finest  and  fiercest 
of  the  coast  tribes,  the  Hydahs.  These  are  a 
manly,  tall,  handsome  people,  and  comparatively  fair  in 
their  complexion;  but  they  are  a  cruel  and  vindictive  race, 
and  were  long  the  terror  of  the  North  Pacific  coast.  They 
even  attempted  to  attack  English  ships,  and  in  1854  they 
plundered  an  American  vessel,  detaining  the  captain  and 
crew  in  captivity  until  they  were  ransomed  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  No  tribe,  moreover,  has  been  more  fearfully 
demoralised  by  the  proximity  of  the  white  man's  "civilisa- 
tion." Drunkenness  and  the  grossest  vices  have  spread 
disease  and  death  among  them. 


768  R 


The  Hydah  Mission, 


In  1876,  the  Society's  missionary,  the  Rev.  W.  H. 
CoUison,  began  a  Mission  among  them  at  Massett,  the- 
principal  trading  post  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  northern 
island,  Graham  Island.  Here  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Collison,  with 
their  two  little  children,  landed  on  November  ist,  1876. 
Patiently  and  prayerfully,  for  the  next  two  years  and  a  half, 
did  Mr.  Collison  labour  among  the  Hydahs.  Very  quickly 
he  gained  a  remarkable  influence  over  them,  and  though  the 
medicine  men  were,  of  course,  bitterly  hostile,  the  tokens 
of  the  working  of  the  Holy  Ghost  were  manifested  sooner 
than  even  an  ardent  faith  might  have  anticipated. 

Mr.  Collison  thus  describes  a  remarkable  peculiarity  of 
the  Hydah  villages  (see  the  picture  on  page  6): — 

In  approaching  a  Hydah  village  from  a  distance  one  is  reminded  of 
a  harbour  with  a  number  of  ships  at  anchor,  owing  to  the  great  number 
of  poles  of  all  sizes  erected  in  front  of  every  house.  These  are  carved 
very  well,  with  all  kinds  of  figures,  many  of  them  unintelligible  to 
visitors  or  strangers,  but  fraught  with  meaning  to  the  people  themselves. 
In  fact,  they  have  a  legend  in  connection  with  almost  every  figure.  It 
is  in  the  erection  of  these  that  so  much  property  is  given  away.  They 
value  them  very  highly,  as  was  instanced  lately  on  the  occasion  of  the 
Governor-General's  visit.  He  was  most  anxious  to  purchase  one,  but 
they  would  not  consent  to  it  at  any  price. 

The  first  Hydah  to  come  out  distinctly  as  a  Christian 
was  a  chief  named  Cowhoe,  concerning  whom  an  interesting 
incident  is  related.  One  day  he  brought  a  book  to  Mr. 
Collison,  saying  it  had  been  given  him  years  before  by  the 
captain  of  an  English  man-of-war,  and  asking  what  it  was. 
It  proved  to  be  a  Testament,  with  this  inscription  on  the 
fly-leaf:  — "7^ro/«  Captain  Prevost,  H.M.S.  'Satellite' 
trusting  that  the  bread  thus  cast  tipoii  the  waters  may  be 
found  after  many  daysT  More  than  twenty  years  had 
passed  away,  and  now  that  prayer  was  answered. 

At  Christmas  (1878),  when  the  Indians  from  other  villages 
came  in  canoes  to  Massett,  the  usual  fest've  custom  of 
"  dancing  with  painted  faces,  and  naked  slaves  with  their 
bodies  blackened,"  was  dispensed  with,  and  in  lieu  of  it  the 
visitors  were  received  by  a  choir  of  a  hundred  Hydahs, 
children  and  adults,  chanting  the  anthem,  **  How  beautiful 
upon  the  mountains."     "The unanimous  opinion  of  all  was 


i^- 


A 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands.  5 

that  the  new  and  Christian  welcome  was  far  superior  to  the 
old  heathen  one." 

Mr.  Collison  afterwards  removed  to  Metlakahtla,  and  his 
place  at  Massett  was  taken  by  Mr.  G.  Sneath,  a  young 
missionary  artizan,  who  twice  went  to  East  Africa  to  join 
the  Victoria  Nyanza  Mission,  and  twice  was  ordered  home 
by  the  consular  surgeon  at  Zanzibar,  and  who  essayed 
missionary  service  in  a  colder  climate.  But  he  has  since 
died,  and  in  1882  the  present  missionary,  the  Rev.  C. 
Harrison,  and  his  wife,  were  appointed  to  the  Mission, 
where  they  have  since  laboured  most  zealously  and  suc- 
cessfully. 

^Vith  this  short  history  of  the  Mission,  the  following 
account  of  his  work,  by  Mr.  Harrison,  will  be  read  with 
greater  interest: — 

Massett,  September  ^rd,  1884. 

It  is  with  great  thankfulness  to  our  Heavenly  Father 
that  I  am  enabled  to  send  you  my  second  annual  letter  of 
oiir  work  at  Massett  and  the  outlying  villages. 

On  September  2nd,  1883,  I  had  the  privilege  of  bap- 
tising George  Cowhoe,  with  his  wife  and  five  children,  and 
I  believe  they  were  truly  prepared  and  ready  for  the  impor- 
tant and  solemn  occasion. 

All  the  Indians  assembled  here  at  the  end  of  November, 
and  began  their  usual  Christmas  festivities.  The  Hydah 
soldiers  were  very  busy  drilling,  and  making  themselves 
look  soldier-like  for  their  performances  during  the  two 
weeks  of  Christmas  and  New  Year,  at  which  season  the 
festivities  are  at  their  height. 

They  asked  me  to  teach  them  all  I  knew  about  soldiers' 
drills,  &c.,  and  I  accordingly  did  so,  and  they  were  greatly 
pleased. 

The  recreation  and  enjoyment  which  young  and  old 
derive  from  the  above  orders  are  very  beneficial,  and  have 
a  tendency  to  abolish  their  old  heathen  customs  entirely 
from  their  minds.  During  December  and  January  the 
people  are  full  of  fun  and  happiness,  which  they  derive  in 
a  great   measure   by  imitating  what  they  have  seen  of 


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Queen  Charlotte's  Islands.  7 

English  soldiev  ,  sailors,  and  firemen  at  Victoria  and 
elsewhere.  Of  course,  if  white  people  were  to  witness 
their  performances,  they,  perhaps,  would  be  templed  to 
ridicule  the  poor  Indians;  but  we  deem  it  advisable  to 
encourage  them,  as  they  seem  innocent  pastimes,  and 
great  sources  of  amusement  for  every  one  in  the  village. 

A  very  bad  custom  among  the  Indians  is  this  :  Suppose 
I  had  quarrelled  with  one  of  my  friends,  to  avoid  fighting 
I  would  announce  my  intention  to  distribute  or  tear  to 
shreds  twenty  blankets  on  a  certain  night,  in  the  presence 
of  all  my  countrymen  ;  and  if  my  adversary  refused  to  do 
the  same,  the  people  would  esteem  me  a  higher  chief  than 
my  adversary,  and  would  consequently  taunt  and  provoke 
my  enemy ;  so  much  so,  that  in  time  he  would  give  forty 
blankets  away;  and  then  the  taunt  would  come  to  me, 
and  if  I  did  not  potlach^  as  they  call  it,  fifty  blankets,  my 
adversary  would  be  counted  as  a  powerful  and  mighty  chief, 
and  would,  at  feasts  and  elsewhere  in  public,  always  have  his 
seat  placed  higher  than  mine.  A  little  before  Christmas  a 
distribution  of  blankets  on  the  same  principle  took  place  by 
one  of  two  contending  parties;  but  Mr.  ^[ackenzie,  J.P.,  and 
I  persuaded  the  other  party  to  desist,  and  see  what  the 
Indian  authorities  would  do  in  such  a  case.  Thus  the 
distribution  of  blankets  in  return  was  avoided,  and  the 
wretched  man  who  gave  away  his  blankets  would,  at  the 
present  moment,  like  to  regain  them,  because  he  sees  that 
the  man  who  has  plenty  of  blankets,  and  very  many  goods, 
&c.,  is  one  whom  we  term  a  chief;  but  he  who  gives  away 
all  his  goods,  and  is  in  a  state  of  poverty,  we  call  a  poor 
man.  The  action  of  the  above  man  who  distributed  his 
blankets  simply  to  have  revenge  on  his  adversary,  and  to 
make  him  distribute  more,  is  a  return  to  the  old  Indian 
custom  of  settling  disputes  ;  and  such  a  case  has  never 
occurred  since  Mr.  Collison  came  amongst  them,  until  the 
case  mentioned  above. 

On  December  12th  the  people  buried  two  chiefs, 
according  to  their  old  heathen  ideas. 

These  were  indeed  grievous  sights  to  witness,  and 
sufficient  to  stir  up  the  sympathy  of  all  Christians  for  the 


8 


The  Hydah  Mission, 


Massett  portion  of  the  Hydah  nation ;  and  I  earnestly 
pray  to  God  our  Father  that  such  scenes  may  never  again 
be  witnessed  by  old  and  young  at  Massett.  The  fault  rests 
with  some  of  the  old  people  here,  who  take  no  interest  in 
things  relating  to  their  welfare,  and,  when  one  of  the  old 
chiefs  dies,  they  hke  to  have  their  own  custom  of  burying 
him  carried  out.     This  custom  hivs  a  pernicious  effect  upon 


'^t<. 


A    HYDAH   CHIEFTESS,    LIVING   AT   MASSETT. 


i 


Queen  Charlottc^s  Islands,  g 

the  minds  of  the  rising  generation,  and,  therefore,  ought  to 
be  stopped.  When  the  second  chief  was  buried,  one  of 
his  relations,  the  wife  of  the  old  devil-doctor,  gave  away  all 
her  goods,  so  as  to  make  herself  appear  a  greater  chieftess 
in  the  eyes  of  the  people,  and  also  to  verify  the  opinion 
that  the  deceased  man  ^vas  a  mighty  and  most  powerful 
chief.  I  saw  plainly  ti;  it  it  was  no  good  to  mterfere 
with  what  they  had  intended  to  do,  so  I  let  them  finish 
what  they  had  begun  although  you  must  know  they  tried 
every  conceivable  piuii  to  keep  the  funerals  secret;  yet,  when 
they  saw  me  at  the  cemetery,  and  amongst  them,  they 
must  have  realised  thai  all  attempts  were  futile.  I  stood 
by  Paul  Stilthta,  and  a  few  others  who  have  declared  them- 
selves to  be  followers  of  Christ,  and  who  refused  to  receive 
the  gifts  when  offered  to  them;  also,  when  the  doctor's 
wife  made  the  distribution  of  her  property,  we  had 
singing,  prayers,  and  reading  of  God's  Word  in  our  house, 
and  all  who  took  an  interest  in  their  soul's  welfare  dis- 
countenanced the  potlach  and  came  to  our  house,  and 
so  we  passed  a  very  pleasant  evening. 

When  all  the  performances  relative  to  the  deceased 
chiefs  were  ended,  I  began  to  tell  them  my  opinion  of  all 
they  had  done,  and  sent  down  word  that  I  v/anted  every 
Indian  at  Massett  to  meet  me  at  Chief  Stilthta's  house,  as 
I  had  something  very  Important  to  say  to  them.  Every 
chief  came,  and  likewise  all  their  people,  and  the  old 
Indian  house  was  well  filled.  When  all  were  assembled,  I 
told  them  how  grieved  I  was,  three  days  ago,  to  witness 
their  foolish  actions,  and  that  instead  of  trying  to  serve 
God,  they  were  trying  to  become  better  servants  under 
the  devil,  *^^he  chief  of  all  wicked  men;  also  that,  if  the 
English  people  had  seen  them,  they  would  at  once 
conclude  that  the  >f  assett  Hydahs  had  gone  crazy,  and 
consequently  would  refuse  to  help  people  to  do  right  and 
walk  in  the  good  way,  who  would  not  help  themselves. 
All  the  chiefs  replied,  and  said  they  were  very  sorry  they 
had  been  so  foolish,  but  declared  they  would  never  do  so 
again.  They  were  proud,  they  said,  that  I  was  not  afraid 
to  say  what  I  thought,  and  that  my  words  were  very  strong 


10 


The  Hyda.i  Mission, 


and  like  fire  against  all  those  who  had  been  so  wicked. 
For  several  weeks  after  my  meeting  with  them,  they  did 
nothing  but  discuss  my  strong  language,  or  "gushoua 
kladska."  All  the  old  people  here  call  us  their  papa  and 
mamma;  so  yoii  see  we  have  our  hands  full  of  children, 
some  of  whom  are  three  times  older  than  ourselves.  May 
God  give  us  grace  to  lead  them  and  teach  them  concerning 
Christ  and  His  Word,  that  they  may  gain  the  city  of 
eternal  bliss  when  they  depart  from  this  sinful  world! 

This  brings  me  to  my  first  Christmas  and  New  Year's 
Day  amongst  the  Hydahs,  which  I  will  now  describe. 
Mrs.  Harrison,  during  her  singing-class  time,  taught  the 
young  people  the  following  well-known  Christmas  hymns: 
"  Hark !  the  herald  angels,"  "  O  come,  all  ye  faithful," 
"  Christians,  awake  !  "  "  While  shepherds  watched  their 
flocks  by  night,"  and  the  anthem,  "  How  beautiful  upon 
the  mountains ! "  On  Christmas  Eve,  at  twelve,  thirty  of 
the  singers  came  and  gave  us  the  full  benefit  of  our  tuition. 
We  pretended  we  had  gone  to  bed,  and  so  kept  the  front 
part  of  the  house  in  darkness.  When,  however,  they  had 
finished,  we  opened  the  door  and  invited  them  in,  and 
gave  them  coffee,  turnovers,  and  cake,  which  greatly  sur- 
prised them.  When  the  feast  was  over,  I  asked  them  to 
sing  the  hymn  again,  which  they  were  delighted  to  do. 

On  Christmas  Day  I  held  service  in  the  church,  which 
we  had  tastefully  decorated  on  the  Monday  preceding 
Christmas.  Trees  of  evergreens  were  placed  near  the 
windows,  and  their  branches  were  arranged  so  as  to  form 
arches  above  the  windows.  Then  Mrs.  Harrison  cut  out 
of  calico  the  words,  **  Glory  to  God  in  the  highest,"  and 
fixed  the  letters  on  turkey-red  cotton.  We  placed  this 
long  text  above  the  communion-table,  so  that  it  could  be 
plainly  seen  by  all  who  entered  the  church.  Christmas- 
cards  we  also  had,  and  large  texts  of  Scripture  arranged 
between  the  windows  (surrounded  by  evergreens),  which 
were  suitable  for  the  occasion.  The  soldiers,  sailors,  and 
firemen  attended,  dressed  in  their  best  uniforms,  znd  also 
looking  very  clean.  When  the  men  had  taken  their  seats^ 
the  women,  dressed  as  neatly  as  possible,  came  and  too.c 


i 


4^ 


m 
ii! 


4i 


1/1 

D 

o 

X 


X 
u 

X 
•<! 
Ci 

> 

X 


12 


The  Mydah  MissioUy 


', 


theirs  also.  I  preached  from  the  text,  "  Glory  to  God  in 
the  highest."  I  am  sure  friends  in  England  would  have 
been  very  pleased  had  they  seen  us  all  on  Christmas  and 
New  Year's  days.  To  Mrs.  Harrison  and  myself  they  were 
days  which  we  shall  ever  remember,  and  they  seemed  so 
calm  and  holy  after  the  turmoil  and  trouble  which  we  had 
lately  passed  through,  and  we  were  greatly  encouraged  in 
our  work  thereby. 

On  New  Year's  Eve  I  held  a  midnight  service,  which 
was  well  attended,  and  truly  it  was  a  very  solemn  time.  I 
preached  from  the  text,  "  Lord,  teach  us  ^tb  rnimber  our 
days,  that  we  may  apply  our  hearts  unto  wisdomW^^  We 
then  sung,  *'  A  few  more  years  shall  roll,"  which  we^had 
taught  them  for  the  occasion.  At  five  minutes  before 
twelve  I  asked  all  to  stand  up  and  pray  to  God  to  forgive 
their  sins,  and  also  to  ask  Him  for  grace  to  lead  a  new 
life,  and  for  power  to  grow  in  holiness.  Every  one,  old 
and  young,  stood  up,  and  to  all  outward  appearance 
engaged  in  silent  prayer.  When  the  clock  had  struck 
twelve,  I  wished  them  all  a  "  Happy  New  Year,"  and  gave 
them  a  short  prayer  to  repeat  every  day  during  the  coming 
year:  the  words  are,  "Oh,  God,  wash  my  soul  white,  and 
make  me  good;  forgive  all  my  sins,  and  help  me  daily  to 
walk  in  Thy  good  way;  through  Jesus  Christ  our  Lord. 
Amen."  We  then  rang  the  bell,  fired  the  cannon,  and 
retired.  New  Year's  afternoon  [1884]  we  gave  all  the 
children  a  treat  in  the  schoolroom.  Ninety  sat  down  to 
tea,  tarts,  and  cakes,  and  enjoyed  themselves. 

You  will  be  surprised  to  know  that  the  Hydahs  have 
turned  me  into  an  Eagle,  and  Mrs.  Harrison  into  a  Bear. 
You  doubtless  know  that  every  Hydah  designates  himself 
under  a  certain  crest,  and  that  the  chief's  crest  is  generally 
an  Eagle  or  a  Bear.  Thus  publicly  at  one  of  their  great 
feasts  they  agreed  that  I  should  be  an  Eagle,  and  therefore 
the  chief  of  the  Eagle  race,  and  that  Mrs.  Harrison  should 
be  a  Bear  and  the  chief  of  the  Bear  tribe.  When  an 
Eagle  man  gives  a  feast  he  does  not  invite  members  of  his 
own  crest,  but  those  of  the  Bear,  Frog,  Raven,  &c.;  also 
the  other  crests  act  in  a  similar  manner  when  they  give  a 


*v 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands, 


15 


!/ 


feast.  But  suppose  I  were  an  Eagle,  my  wife  would  be  a 
Bear,  or  Frog,  &c.,  and  when  my  people  make  a  feast  I  am 
not  permitted  to  go,  but  my  wife,  the  Bear,  attends,  and 
after  the  feasting  is  over  she  brings  a  quantity  of  biscuits 
back  for  me;  and  I  do  the  same  for  her  when  any  of  the 
Bear  people  make  a  feast.  The  biscuits  given  away  after 
the  feasts  are  distributed  according  to  the  rank  of  the 
people  present;  a  great  chief  getting  perhaps  fifty  and  an 
ordinary  man  perhaps  ten.  Also  at  the  graves  of  the  two 
deceased  chiefs,  they  being  an  Eagle  and  a  Bear  respec- 
tively, the  blankets  and  prints  were  distributed  to  members 
of  the  opposite  crests.  Since  my  meeting  with  them,  they 
have  never  allowed  a  feast  to  take  place  if  I  were  not 
present.  We  generally  sing  the  well-known  graces  before 
and  after  meals:  "  Be  present  at  our  table,  Lord,"  "  We 
thank  Thee,  Lord,"  &c.  When  the  feasting  is  over  I 
give  them  a  sjiort  address. 

I  have  held  the  following  meetings  during  the  year: — 
Sunday  morning,  church  from  half-past  ten  to  twelve. 
Sunday  afternoon,  church  from  three  to  half-past  four. 
Sunday  evening,* church  from  half-past  six  to  eight.  Every 
alternate  Sunday  evening,  after  the  church  service,  we  have 
a  short  prayer-meeting,  when  we  sing  one  hymn;  then  I  read  a 
Psalm,  give  a  short  address,  and  ask  two  persons  to  engage 
in  prayer ;  then  we  sing  another  hymn,  and  I  ask  two  more 
to  pray ;  then  comes  another  hymn,  and  two  more  engage  in 
prayer,  and  I  close  with  the  Benediction. 

Monday  evenings  during  November  and  December,  1883, 
and  January,  1884,  were  set  apart  for  private  interviews 
with  those  whom  I  selected  for  baptism  out  of  the  many  who 
desired  it.  I  told  them  what  baptism  really  is,  and  what  is 
required  of  all  who  are  baptized.  The  result  of  my  bap- 
tismal class  is,  that  on  March  30th  and  April  27  th  I  bap- 
tized fifteen  persons,  young  and  old,  including  two  chiefs. 

Tuesday  nights  I  have  held  an  "  Old  Tilikums  Church," 
/>.,  a  service  for  only  the  very  old  people;  and  many  of  the 
oldest  natives  put  in  an  appearance,  with  rings  in  their  ears, 
rings  in  their  noses,  small  pieces  of  silver  stuck  in  their 
chins,  bracelets  on  their  wrists,  and  beads  on  their  ankles. 


■WK; 


HilHISI 


SBSSS 


14 


The  Hydah  Mission^ 


>  i 


r.i 


1 1 ; 


;il 


May  God  bring  those  hard-hearted  and  long-continued 
sinners  to  His  footstool  in  deep  penitence  !  Also,  I  have 
instructed  Paul  Stilthta,  and  Paul's  wife,  concerning  confir- 
mation, and  hope  they  will  be  the  first  of  the  Hydah  nation 
to  receive  that  rite. 

Wednesday  nights,  during  the  months  of  November, 
December,  and  January,  I  held  what  I  called  *'  testimony 
meetings."  We  sang  a  hymn,  then  I  delivered  a  short 
address ;  afterwards  I  called  upon  one  to  pray.  After 
prayers  I  called  upon  those  who  said  they  believed  in  God 
to  stand  up  and  tell  their  brethren  what  God  had  done  for 
their  souls,  and  the  reason  of  their  avowing  themselves  on 
the  Lord's  side.  Very  many  stood  up  and  declared  they 
would  try  with  God's  help  to  live  good  lives,  and  also  to 
attend  church  regularly.  There  are  thirty- two  who  I  think 
are  in  real  earnest  after  their  soul's  eternal  welfare,  and 
accordingly  I  have  formed  them  into  a  catechumens'  class. 
I  have  given  each  member  a  ticket,  stating  him  to  be  a 
member  of  St.  John's  catechumens'  class.  We  gave  the 
name  of  St.  John  to  our  church  at  Christmas,  1883,  and  the 
people  are  very  pleased.  • 

From  October  to  the  end  of  May  I  have  preached  every 
Thursday  night  in  the  church,  and  have  had  large  and 
attentive  audiences.  The  one  great  drawback  amongst  the 
Hydahs  is  this.  They  say :  *'  We  are  not  very  wicked,  and 
our  lives  are  better  than  So-and-so's  ";  and  thus  it  is  very 
difficult  to  make  them  fully  understand  the  necessity  of  a 
change  of  heart  and  a  baptism  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  before 
they  can  really  call  themselves  the  children  of  God. 

On  Friday  evenings,  from  October  lO  May,  Mrs.  Harrison 
has  had  her  singing-class.  Besides  teaching  the  young 
people  the  Christmas  hymns  referred  to,  she  has  taught  them 
"When  our  hearts  are  bowed  with  woe,"  Tor  Good  Friday; 
and  "Jesus  Christ  is  risen  to-day,"  for  Easter  Sunday;  also 
the  Te  Deum  in  Hydah,  and  many  of  Moody  and  Sankey's 
hymns. 

Saturday  I  have  to  myself,  and  prepare  my  Sunday 
addresses.  We  have  had  daily  school  in  the  mornings 
from  10  to  12,  and  in  the  afternoons  from  2  to  4.  Progress 
all  round  very  satisfactory. 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands, 


15 


The  Indians  have  been  almost  daily  for  medicine,  and 
thus  we  have  been  kept  very  busy  during  the  winter  season. 
I  must  not  forget  to  mention  that  Mrs.  Harrison  takes  the 
school  in  the  afternoons,  and  I  in  the  mornings.  Mrs. 
Harrison  has  a  good  class  of  mothers,  whom  she  instructs 
in  the  Bible,  &c.,  and  all  who  possibly  can  attend  her 
meetings. 

The  first  week  in  February  I  left  Mrs.  Harrison  in  charge 
of  the  Mission,  and  went  forty  miles  south  to  visit  the 
Hydahs,  who  had  gone  to  make  their  canoes.  I  visited  six 
camps,  and  preached  morning  and  evening  at  each  place, 
and  administered  medicine  to  the  sick.  They  were  all 
pleased  to  see  me,  and  all  attended  the  hut  in  which  I 
held  my  services.  It  was  very  cold  at  the  time,  and  the 
only  houses  the  Indians  had  were  made  of  the  bark  of 
cedar — bark  walls,  bark  roof,  and  sack  doors,  under  which 
you  had  almost  to  crawl  before  you  could  get  inside,  where 
a  very  large  fire  was  blazing.  Some  of  them  live  in  this 
style  of  house  for  three  or  four  months  every  winter 
season,  when  they  are  making  their  canoes.  It  was  very 
interesting  to  see  them  sound  the  big  cedar  trees,  cut  them 
down,  hollow  them  out,  and  make  them  into  canoe  shape. 
When  this  is  done,  they  bring  them  to  their  proper  homes 
at  Massett,  work  at  them  for  another  month,  chipping, 
and  making  them  exact  to  shape ;  then  to  finish,  they  put 
the  canoe  on  a  large  fire,  with  water  inside,  and  by  this 
process  they  stretch  them  to  their  utmost,  and  then  they 
gum  up  all  the  cracks,  and  the  canoe  is  ready  for  sale. 
I  doubt  not,  but  if  the  Hydahs  knew  the  route  to  England, 
it  would  not  be  very  long  before  you  would  see  some  of 
them  there,  as  they  are  the  best  Indians  on  the  coast  to 
manage  canoes.  They  think  very  little  of  going  to  Victoria, 
or  New  "^Vestminster,  which  is  a  distance  of  600  miles. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year  I  had  a  severe  attack  of 
inflammation  of  the  lungs,  pleurisy,  and  bronchitis,  as  the 
result  of  a  severe  cold  I  got  when  visiting  the  Indians  at  their 
canoe-camps.  I  am  thankful  to  say  that  I  feel  strong  again. 
Last  February  I  was  ill,  and  so  we  determined  to  close  the 
Sunday-school,  and  have  only  the  three  preaching  services 


i6 


The  Hydah  Mission, 


!  I 


on  Sunday.  This  being  the  case,  every  Tuesday  afternoon 
during  March  and  April  we  have  held  service  for  the 
children  in  the  schoolroom.  The  Hydahs  are  very 
desirous  of  singing,  and  so  the  young  people  have  a 
singing-class  every  Wednesday  afternoon. 

On  Ash  Wednesday  I  held  service  in  the  church  at 
ten  a.m.,  and  a  great  number  attended.  As  they  had  never 
known  anything  about  Ash  Wednesday  before  that  morn- 
ing, I  tried  to  make  them  understand  the  reason  why  we 
attend  church  on  such  a  day,  and  also  what  transpired 
during  the  next  forty  days  in  the  life  of  our  Saviour  on 
earth. 

On  Good  Friday  I  held  service,  and  preached  from  the 
text,  "There  they  crucified  Him"  (Luke  xxiii.  33).  I 
had  a  fairly  good  attendance,  considering  that  many  of  the 
Hydahs  were  away  at  North  Island,  hunting  for  seal.  We 
sang  the  beautiful  and  solemn  hymn,  **  When  our  heads  are 
bowed  wit*-  woe."  When  Easter  morn  arrived,  there  was 
another  surprise  awaiting  them,  as  they  had  not  the  least  idea 
of  Easter  Sunday,  and  why  the  English  people  think  so  much 
of  it.  I  preached  from  the  text,  "He  is  risen,"  and  made  them 
understand  what  Easter  really  means,  and  how,  1850  years 
ago,  angels  said  to  the  sorrowful  Maries,  '•  He  is  risen, 
even  as  He  said."  Three  times  that  day  we  sang,  "  Jesus 
Christ  is  risen  to-day,  Alleluia!"  Also  on  Easter  Sunday  we 
chanted  the  Te  Deum  in  their  own  language  at  the  usual 
place  in  the  morning  service,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of 
all  present.  Since  New  Year*s  week  Mrs.  Harrison  has 
had  the  younger  people  in  training,  and  the  singing  was 
fairly  good,  at  all  events,  to  my  poor  musical  ear.  When 
at  Islington  College,  Mr.  May,  our  dear  old  music  pro- 
fessor, told  me  I  had  not  the  least  idea  of  singing;  however, 
whether  I  have  improved  or  not,  if  I  do  not  sing  in  church 
the  men  will  not;  and  if  Mrs.  Harrison  stops  singing,  the 
women  do  likewise;  and  therefore  we  are  both  kept  going. 

vVeha,  the  head  chief  of  Massett,  referred  to  in  my  last 
letter,  died  on  the  6th  October,  1883.  He  caught  a  severe 
cold  at  Cape  Horn,  and  his  friends  did  not  hurry  back  to 
Massett  when  they  saw  he  was  sick,  as  they  hoped  he  would 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands. 


17 


soon  recover.  However,  instead  of  getting  better,  he  grew 
worse,  and  then  they  brought  him  here ;  ten  days  after  he 
was  seized  with  rheumatic  fever.  I  was  alone  at  that  time 
of  the  year,  as  Mr.  Mackenzie  (the  only  other  white  nian 
here)  was  at  Victoria.  I  did  my  utmost  for  the  poor  chief, 
but  from  the  very  first  I  never  once  thought  that  he  would 
recover,  as  he  was  quite  helpless  and  very  weak  when  I 
first  saw  him.  I  do  not  believe  there  is  any  sympathy  in 
many  of  the  Hydahs.  On  Friday  night,  October  6th,  at 
nine  o'clock,  word  came  that  Weha  was  dying,  and  the 
people  wanted  me  to  go  and  see  him.  I  accordingly 
hurried  down,  and  as  soon  as  I  got  there  I  asked  three 
women  to  go  up  and  sit  with  Mrs.  Harrison,  as  she  was 
alone  in  the  house,  very  weak  after  her  confinement  seven 
days  previously.  All  refused,  and  so  I  did  not  trouble 
further,  but  did  my  duty  to  the  sick  man,  and  left  Mrs. 
Harrison  in  God's  care.  I  took  great  care  of  Weha  during 
his  sickness,  and  yet  not  one  of  the  women  would  assist 
me  by  sitting  for  one  hour  with  my  wife.  I  prayed  by  the 
bedside  of  the  dying  chief,  and  then  asked  him  if  he  were 
sure  he  was  going  to  heaven,  and  at  once  his  countenance 
brightened  up,  and  seemed  to  answer  in  the  affirmative, 
although  his  tongue  had  for  ever  ceased  in  this  world.  I 
made  him  as  comfortable  as  I  could,  and  repeated  many 
preeious  texts  in  his  ear,  such  as  "  Come  unto  Me,  all  ye 
that  labour  and  are  heavy  laden,  and  I  will  give  you  rest!" 
"  God  so  loved  the  world  that  He  gave  His  only  begotten 
Son,  that  whosoever  believeth  in  Him  should  not  perish, 
but  have  everlasting  life!"  "He  that  believeth  shall  be 
saved !"  and  then  returned  at  ten  o'clock  to  our  house. 

When  I  got  back  I  found  our  infant  daughter  very  sick, 
and  fifteen  minutes  after  she  died  with  convulsions.  This 
was  very  trying  for  Mrs.  Harrison  and  myself,  but  we  were 
led  to  look  to  the  great  Source  of  all  strength  and  consola- 
tion, and  were  enabled  from  our  hearts  to  say,  "  The  Lord 
gave,  and  the  Lord  hath  taken  away :  blessed  be  the  name 
of  the  Lord."  Five  days  afterwards  we  committed  the 
body  of  our  infant  daughter  to  the  grave,  and  there  it  rests 
until  the  day  whan  all,  from  the  least  to  the  greatest,  shall 


I 


HYDAII    WOMRN,    Qt'EEN'    CIIAUI.OTTES    ISLAM). 


\ 


■a 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands. 


19 


rise  and  stand  before  Christ,  the  Judge  ;  and  without  doubt 
a  welcome  to  dwell  with  Him  in  glory  awaits  her.  She  is^ 
the  first  white  person  ever  buried  at  Massett.  Five  hours 
after  our  baby's  death,  on  October  6th,  1883,  Weha  died, 
and  thus  a  young  infant  and  an  aged  man  in  the  same 
night  bade  farewell  to  this  mortal  life  ;  and  a  welcome  to 
glory  after  the  judgment  doubtless  awaits  both. 

This  chief  was  the  first  Hydah  to  receive  baptism,  and 
was  the  man  who  set  the  good  example  of  ignoring 
potlaches  by  saying  that  he  now  believed  in  Christ,  and 
was  striving  to  work  for  Him  and  to  make  His  salvation 
known  to  his  fellow-countrymen. 

On  January  8th,  1883,  I  married  a  chief  and  chieftess 
in  the  presence  of  very  many  Hydahs,  and  there  was  great 
interest  evinced  in  the  service,  and  the  happy  couple  gave- 
a  grand  feast  to  every  one  at  Massett.  Mrs.  Harrison  and 
I  were  seated  at  least  twelve  feet  higher  than  the  others 
who  were  present,  and  received  three  good  cheers  when 
we  entered. 

There  is  ample  scope  for  the  antiquarian  in  the  rich 
carvings  on  the  columns,  or  gehang's,  which  abound  iit 
this  and  the  adjoining  villages,  and  the  quaint  old 
legends  in  connection  therewith;  also  the  legendary  lore 
of  the  old  people,  as  they  describe  the  things  supposed  to 
have  been  done  in  the  olden  times,  fill  one  with  wonder,, 
and  at  the  same  time  with  a  feeling  of  pity  for  their  con- 
dition. On  the  north  coast  of  Graham's  Island,  about 
thirty  miles  from  Massett,  stands  Tou  (food  or  grease),  a 
strange-looking  hill  rising  sheer  up  on  the  north  and  west,. 
and  almost  so  on  the  east,  to  the  height  of  250  feet,  and 
is  conspicuous  from  every  direction,  and  is  a  landmark 
for  vessels  crossing  to  Massett.  The  Indians  declare  that 
formerly  this  mountain  stood  beside  another,  seventy 
miles  south  of  the  present  position,  and  because  the  chief 
of  the  waters,  where  it  was  located  previously,  refused  to 
give  it  dog-fish,  it  got  disgusted  with  its  position,  and  one 
brilliant  moonlight  night  it  was  seen  to  take  its  march 
down  to  where  it  now  stands,  and  there  it  has  plenty  of 
dog-fish  for  its  consumption,  for  the  Hydahs  makea  quan. 


r 


20 


The  Hydah  Mission, 


ftity  of  dog-fish  oil  there  every  summer.  When  I  visited 
the  Indians  at  Jewskatle,  last  February,  the  Indians  in  the 
canoe  pointed  the  place  out  to  me  where  Tou  formerly 
stood,  and  related  the  above  story,  which  every  Hydah 
at  Massett  is  acquainted  with. 

The  story  concerning  the  man  in  the  moon .  is  also 
known  amongst  the  Hydahs.  The  version  of  it  is  this  : 
A  long  time  ago  there  was  a  very  naughty  boy,  who  was 
sent  out  one  night  to  gather  sticks.  He  complained  to 
his  parents  and  said  it  was  dark,  and  therefore  he  could 
not  go.  His  father  said,  *'No,  the  moon  shines  to-night, 
and  soon  it  will  be  almost  as  light  as  day."  The  boy 
was  thus  compelled  to  go;  but  he  thought  he  would  insult 
the  moon  and  have  his  revenge  on  it;  so  he  made 
grimaces  at  it,  and  also  placed  his  fingers  to  the  end  of 
his  nose.  And  the  moon  was  vexed  with  him,  and  sent  a 
powerful  chief  down  after  this  boy,  and  the  man  took  him 
and  his  wood  up  to  the  moon,  and  there  he  is  to  be  seen 
with  his  sticks  on  his  back  every  moonlight  night.  The 
■moral  drawn  from  the  above  story  is,  that  all  boys  and 
girls  should  at  once  obey  their  parents,  and  never  com- 
plain when  they  are  told  to  do  anything;  also,  that  it  is 
very  wicked  for  boys  and  girls  to  ridicule  the  sun,  moon, 
and  stars,  for  they  are  sent  to  give  us  light,  and  are  placed 
there  by  the  same  great  Chief  who  made  us  all. 

[In  the  course  of  an  account  of  a  voyage  to  other  parts 
of  the  islands,  Mr.  Harrison  writes  : — ] 

We  attempted  to  ran  across  to  Edenshaw's  Village, 

.and  from  thence  to  Sisk,  which  faces  the  open  ocean.     At 

this  point  eight  canoes  were  encamped;  as  the  wind  being 

strong,  and  the  sea  rough,  prevented  their  going  out  to 

shoot  sea-otters.     I  thought  if  we  could  get  to  this  place 

I  should  have  a  suitable  opportunity  to  preach  about 

•Christ's  love  to  about  forty  strong  and  stalwart  men. 

However,  it  seems  that  we  are  to  meet  with  misfortunes 

•whenever  we  go  to  sea,  and  this  time  our  attempt  to  gain 

Edenshaw's  Village  was  frustrated,  for  when  we  had  got 

.halfway  across  several  puffs  of  wind  came,  and  one  struck 

the  jib  and  mainsail,  and  ran  the  vessel  a  short  distance 


I 


r 


Queen  Charlotte'' s  Islands. 


21 


, 


port  side  under  water  as  far  as  the  hatchway.  How  the- 
schooner  again  righted  itself  is  a  wonder  to  us  ail.  All 
the  goods  and  articles  on  deck  went  overboard,  including 
the  ship's  lead;  and  the  plates  and  dishes,  &c.,  in  our 
small  cabin  went  rolling  about  in  all  directions.  Mrs. 
Harrison  was  standing  on  the  cabin  steps,  and  of  course 
nearest  the  water.  The  foresail  struck  me  on  the  head, 
and  sent  my  cap  flying  into  the  water,  and  the  long  oar, 
by  some  unaccountable  means,  got  fixed  to  the  foresail 
rigging,  and,  turning  round  with  the  sail,  struck  me  a 
heavy  blow  on  the  back,  and  sent  me  reeling  full  length- 
en the  top  of  the  cabin.  By  degrees  the  vessel  righted, 
and  we  put  back  to  Tattens,  not  much  the  worse  for  our 
little  sea  experience.  Had  the  foresail  been  up  we  should 
most  certainly  have  capsized,  and  found  a  watery  grave. 

Paul  Kinaskilas  and  James  Stilthla  are  two  baptized 
chiefs,  and  wherever  they  go  they  always  hold  service 
among  their  friends,  and  when  they  are  at  home  I  ask  them 
to  preach  every  alternate  Thursday  evening.  When  I  first 
came  here  I  made  it  a  point  to  always  have  something  for 
the  baptized  to  do,  and  now  it  is  a  recognised  fact,  that 
wherever  Paul  and  James  are,  there  they  must  preach,  and 
accordingly  their  friends  come  to  hear  them.  This  coming 
winter  I  hope  to  get  some  more  of  the  baptized  started  to 
preach  to  their  friends  at  the  distant  camps,  when  they  are 
away  hunting  fur-seal  and  sea-otter,  and  therefore  I  must 
call  them  native  voluntary  helpers. 

In  conclusion,  if  we  look  at  the  deserted  villages,  which 
are  numerous  on  the  islands,  we  are  reminded  that  time  was 
when  the  Hydahs  could  be  reckoned  almost  at  the  rate  of  a 
thousand  to  the  present  hundred.  Look  at  the  ruined  houses 
at  Keyung-Yen,  Virago  Sound,  Edenshaw's  Village,  North 
Island,  and  Cloak  Bay — study  the  works  now  cruuibling  to 
ruin,  left  behind  by  their  ancient  inhabitants — look  at  the 
tall  columns,  ox  gehangs,  of  ancient  data — yea,  look  at  them 
pointing  heavenwards,  with  their  mystical  hieroglyphics 
from  bottom  to  top,  and  then  inquire,  Where  are  the 
descendants  of  these  people  ?  and  the  answer  will  come, 
"  They  are  gone."     Yes,  dear  friends,  you  can  see  the 


I 


22 


The  Hydiih  Mission, 


remains  of  many  large  villages,  but  where  are  the  people  ? 
Where  are  the  people  whom  Marchand  a  century  ago 
describes  as  very  powerful  and  fierce  ?  Where  are  they  or 
their  descendants  ?  Stand  in  the  midst  of  an  old  deserted 
village,  and  call  for  the  inhabitants  thereof,  and  Echo, 
through  the  ruins,  in  wailing  tones,  replies,  **They  are  gone." 
Look  at  the  obituary  gehangs  on  every  side,  and  inquire  of 
them,  and  the  answer  is  still  the  same,  *'  They  are  not." 
Where  are  they  ?  Turn  your  eyes,  and  gaze  on  the  boxes 
placed  on  two  large  posts  amongst  the  green  bushes,  and 
which  are  now  decaying  and  fast  disappearing,  and  you 
will  find  the  mummified  remains  of  all  that  's  now  left 
of  the  ancient  Hydahs,  fierce  and  skilful.  T  e  question 
comes.  Why  have  they  so  decreased?  The  answer  is 
twofold  :  years  ago  the  small-pox  epidemic  raged  wildly 
and  unchecked  amongst  them,  and  many  rushed  into  the 
open  ocean  to  cool  their  fever-stricken  brows,  and  so  they 
quickly  died.  Yes,  whole  families  died,  and  yet  there  was 
no  one  to  care  for  them,  or  to  direct  them  to  the  Great 
Physician,  Jesus  Christ.  Whole  families  were  thus  swept 
away  with  one  fell  stroke,  and  even  now,  when  the  old 
inhabitants  relate  how  their  friends  were  carried  out  of 
their  sight  by  that  dreadful  disease,  a  shudder  is  perceiv- 
able, as  caused  by  the  fearful  remembrance  of  that  un- 
happy time.  Another  cause  why  they  are  so  quickly 
decreasing  is  the  inducement  held  out  to  them  at  Victoria, 
New  Westminster,  and  elsewhere,  of  hi^h  wages  and  good 
work.  These  two  things  are  the  great  attractions  for  the 
Indians,  and  consequently  they  leave  their  native  homes, 
either  to  die  in  a  few  short  years  by  the  miserable  life  they 
lead,  and  by  the  evils  which  surround  them  by  the  spirit 
trafiicj  or  they.return  to  their  homes  sick,  and  under  the 
curse  of  the  foul  habits  contracted  when  away  from  home. 
Thanks  to  the  Indian  Department,  this  evil  is  decreasing, 
for  they  have,  to  some  extent,  put  a  check  to  the  practices 
referred  to. 

This  being  the  case,  and  there  is  no  use  denying  it, 
we  see  that  it  rests  upon  us,  who  have  put  on  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ,  to  be  up  and  doing,  and  to  exert  ourselves  to 


' 


Queen  Charlotte's  Islands. 


23 


the  uttermost  for  the  salvation  of  the  declining  Hydah 
nation.  I  need  hardly  ask  you  to  remember  us  and  the 
Hydahs  in  your  prayers  at  the  throne  of  grace,  ai.d  I  hope 
the  time  may  soon  come  when  we  shall  be  able  to  reckon 
the  Hydahs  as  a  Christian  nation. 


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