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u
ROCK V M . " NTJ^T^'^f^'
UK*.
It.
>r
A Rmmi. Of ill. Siwx War,
Q 1^ ^ , cj K <) B'Ci E ..\.. ( ' IT S T E R
ILLVHTHATim BY flNtMArmt^ii ANi>
VSKABm, •'■ ■ ^-TMm^lMXm SSI,?.
,TFOHD
s \
Il(
»i
G]
ELEVEN YEARS
IN THB
ROOKY MOUNT-A.IIsrS
ASD
LIFE ON THE FRONTIER.
By FRANCES F. VICTOR.
ALSO
A History of the Sioux War,
AND A LIFE OF
GEN. GEORG-E A. OUSTER
WITH FULL ACCOUNT OF HIB LAST BATTLB.
ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRAVINGS AND NAPS,
rOBLXSBIS BT SUBHOBIPTIOM OMIT.
HARTFORD, CONN.:
R. W. BLISS AND COMPANY.
1881.
COPTBIGHT BY
Cqldiibun Book CoMPAwr.
1877.
H^
\.-i^-'
PA.IIT I.
MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES
AlTD
FRONTIEB LIFE.
294Ca
INTRODUCTION.
When the author of this book has been absorbed in the
elegant narratives of Washington Irving, reading and
musing over Astoria and Bonneville^ in the cozy quiet of
a New York study, no prescient motion of the mind ever
gave prophetic indication of that personal acquaintance
which has since been formed with the scenes, and even
with some of the characters which figure in the works just
referred to. Yet so have events shaped themselves that
to me Astoria is familiar ground ; Forts Vancouver and
Walla- Walla pictured forever in my memory ; while such
journeys as I have been enabled to ^like into the couBtry
east of the last named fort, have given me a fair insight
into the characteristic features of its mountains and its
plains.
To-day, a railroad traverses the level stretch between
the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains, along which,
thirty years ago, the fur-traders had worn a trail by their
annual excursions with men, pack-horses, and sometimes
wagons, destined to the Rocky Mountains. Then, they
had to guard against the attacks of the Savages ; and in
this respect civilization is behind the railroad, for now, as
then, it is not safe to travel without a suflBcient escort.
To-day, also, we have new Territories called by several
names cut out of the identical hunting-grounds of the fur-
traders of thirty years ago ; and steamboats plying the
ri^'^ers where the mountain-men came to set their traps for
beaver ; or cities growing up like mushrooms from a soil
INTHOUUCTIOX.
U
mado quick by gold, where the hardy mountain-hunter
pursued the buifalo herds in search of his winter's supply
of food.
The wonderful romance which once gave enchantment
to stories of hardship and of daring deeds, suttered and
done in 'these then distant wildvS, is fast being dissipated
by tlie rapid settlement of the new Territories, and by the
familiarity of the public mind with tales of stirring adven-
ture encountered in the search for glittering ores. It was,
then, not without an emotion of pleased surprise that I
first encountered in the fertile plains of Western Oregon
the subject of this biography, a man fifty-eight years of
age, of fine appearance and buoyant temper, full of anec-
dote, and with a memory well stored with personal recol-
lections of all the men of note who have formerly visited
the old Oregon Territory, when it comprised the whole
country west of the Rocky Mountains lying north of Cali-
fornia and south of the forty-ninth parallel. This man is
Joseph L. Meek^ to whose stories of mountain-life I have
listened for days together; and who, after having figured
conspicuously, and not without considerable fame, in the
early history of Oregon, still prides himself most of all on
having been a "mountain-man."
It has frequently been suggested to Mr. Meek, who has
BOW come to be known by the familiar title of "Uncle
Joe" to all Oregon, that a history of his varied adventures
would make a readable book, and some of his neighbors
have even undeftaken to become his historian, yet with so
little well-directed efforts that the task after all has fallen
to a comparative stranger. I confess to having taken hold
of it with some doubts as to my claims to the office ; and
the best recommendation I can give my work is the inter-
est I myself felt in the subject of it; and the only apology
1 can offer for anything incredible in the narrative which
LNTRODUCTION.
it may contain, is that I " tell the tale as 'twas told to me,"
and that I have no occasion to doubt the truth of it
Seeing that the incidents 1 had to record embraced a
period of a score and a half of years, and that they ex-
tended over those years most interesting in Oregon his-
tory, as well as of the history of the Fur Trade in the
West, I have concluded to preface Mr. Meek's adventures
with a sketch of the latter' believing that the information
thus convey td to the reader will give an additional degree
of interest to their narration. The impression made upon
my own mind as I gained a knowledge of the facts which
I shall record in this book relating to the early occupation
of Oregon, was that they were not only profoundly roman-
tic, but decidedly unique.
Mr. Meek was bom in Washington Co., Virginia, in
1810, one year before the settlement of Astoria^ and at a
period when Congress was much interested in the question
of our Western possessions and their boundary. "Mani-
fest destiny " seemed to have raised him up, together with
niany others, bold, hardy, and fearless men, to become
sentinels on the outposts of civilization, securing to the
United States with comparative ease a vast extent of ter-
ritory, for which, without them, a long struggle with Eng-
land would have taken place, delaying the settlement of
the Pacific Coast for many years, if not losing it to us alto-
gethen It is not without a feeling of genuine self-congrat-
ulation, that I am able to bear testimony to the services,
hitherto hardly recognized, of the " mottntain-men '* who
have settled in Oregon. Whenever there shall arise a
studious and faithful historian, their names shall not be
excluded from honorable mention, nor least illustrious will
appear that of Joseph L. Meek, the Rocky M. * .tain Hunt-
er and Trapper.
CONTENTS.
PREFATORY CHA
ER.
Astoria— Fort Vancouver— Its isolated Positior -1 recautions against In-
dians—The Hudson's Bay Company— T'b *olicy . id Intercourse with
the Indians— The Arrival of the " Brigade "— Ot^er Y.ariy Arrivals-
Punishment of Indian Offenders — Indian Strategy— A Hero— The
American Fur CompanitJ — Their Denlingp % uh the Indians — Ashley's
Expeditions to Green River— Attack ou imiil 's Party—Wyeth's Ex-
peditions—Fort Hall— Decline of the Fur Trade— Ci^uses of the Indians'
Hostility — Dangers attending the Trapper's Life, - - »
CHAPTER I.
Early Life of Meek — He leaves Home — Enlists in a Fur Company — On
the March — A Warning Voice — Frontier Sports — Last Vestige of Civil-
ization— On the Plains — A first Adventure — A firm Front — A Parley —
The Summer Rendezvous — An enchanting Picture — The Free Trap-
per's Indian Wife — Wild Carousals — Routine of Camp Life — Smoked
Moccasins versus Green Ones — A " Trifling Fellow," -
CHAPTER II.
The Camp in Motion — A Trapping Expedition — Opposition to the Hud-
eon's Bay Company — Beautiful Scenery — The Lost Leader Found —
Rejoicings in Camp — The " Luck " of the Trappers — Conference of
Leaders — The "Devil's Own" — Blackfoot Character — Account of the
Tribes, .--.--.--
CHAPTER III.
How Beaver are Taken — Beaver Dams — Formation of Meadows — Beaver
Lodges—" Bachelors "—Trapping in Winter—" Up to Trap "—Black-
feet on the Trail — On Guerd — The Trapper's Ruse — A disappointed
Bear — A Fight with Blackfeet — " Out of Lock — Alone in the Moun-
tains— Splendid Views — A Miserable NigV — The last Luxury of Life —
The Awfulness of Solitude — A Singular Discovery — A Hell on Earth —
A Joyiul Recognition — Hard Times in Camp — The Negro's Porcupine—
Craig's Rabbit — Deep Snows — What the Scout saw — Bighorn River —
" Colter's Hell" — An Alarm — Arrival at Wind River— Christmas,
CHAPTER IV.
Removal to Powder River — A Trapper's Paradise — The Transformation
-' in the Wilderness — The Encampment by Night — ^Meek takes to Stui^y —
rA«k
41
S7
94
zu
CONTENTS.
On the Move — Loss of Horses and Traps — Robbed and Insulted by a
Bear — Crossing the Yellowstone — A Novel Ferriage — Annoyance from
Blackfeet — A Cache Opened — A Comrade Killed — Kude Burial Serv-
ice— Return to Rendezvous — Gay Times — The old Partners take Leave, 82^
CHAPTER V.
Grizzly Bears — .vu Adventure -with a Grizzly — The Three "Bares" —
The Mountain-Man's Manners — Joking the Leaders — The Irishman
and the Booshway — How Sublette climbed a Tree and escaped a Bear-
Rival Trappers — Whisky as a Strong Card — Ogden's Indian Wife —
Hef Courage and Escape — Winter Quarters — Crow Horse-Thieve*—
An Expedition on Foot — Night Attack on the Indian Fort — Fitzpatrick
Missing — ^Destitution in Camp — A " Medicine-Man " consulted — " Mak-
ing Medicine" — A Vision Obtained — Fitzpatrick Found~-Death of
Smith — An Expedition on Snow-Shoes, - - - - 90
CHAPTER VI
Annoying Competitidn — The Chiefs Daughter — Publette Wounded —
Forty Days of Isolation — Sublette and Meek captured by Snake In-
dians— A Solemn Council — Sentence of Death — Hope Deferred — A Res-
cue— The "Mountain Lamb" — An Obstinate Rival — Blackfeet Ma-
rauders— Fitzpatrick's Adventures in the Mountains — " When the Pie
was opened the Birds began to Sing " — Rough Sports — A Man on Fire —
Brigades ready for the Start— 'Blackfeet Caravan — Peaceful Overtures —
• The Half-Breed's Revenge — A Battle — Reinforcements — Death of Sin-
clair— Sublette Wounded — Greenhorns — A false Alarm — Indian Adroit-
netB — A Deserted Fort — Incident of the Blackfoot Woman — Murder of
a Party by Blackfeet, -------
VII
lOS
CHAPTER
The March to the Humboldt — Scarcity of Game — Terrible Sufferings—
The Horrors of. Thirst and Famine — Eating Ants, Crickets and Mules —
Return to Snake River — A lucky Discovery — A Trout Supper — The
Country of the Diggers — Some Account of Them — Anecdote of Wyeih
and Meek — Comparison of Indian Tnbes — The Blackfeet — The Crows—
The Coast Tribes and the Mountain Tribes — The Columbia River
Indians — Their Habits, Customs, and Dress — Indian Commerce — The
Indians of the Plains — Their Dress, Manners, and Wealth — The Horses
of the Plains — Language — The Indian's Moral Nature — Hungry and
Hospitable Savages — A Trap set for a Rival — An Ambush — Death of
Vanderburg — Skirmish with Blackfeet — The Woman Interpreter taken
Prisoner — Bravery of her Husband — Happy Finale — Meek Rescues the
" Mountain Lamb " — Intense Cold — Threatened by Famine-~The Den
of Gfizzlys — Second Daniela, • - « • ^ • ill
CONTENTS.
XUl
CHAPTER VIII,
Pau.
A Visit from Blackfeet — The Green River Rendezvous — A " Powerful
Drunk"— Mad Wolf— A Friendly Warning— A Trip to the Salt Lake
Country — Meek Joins Jo. Walker's California Expedition — Instinct of
the Mule — On the Humboldt River — Massacre of Diggers at Mary's
River — Vain Explorations — Crossing the Sierra Nevadas — Hardships
and Sufferings — The Sacramento Valley — Delight of the Trappers —
Meeting with Spanish Soldiers — A Parley — Escorted to Monterey — A
Hospitable Reception — The Native Califomians — Visit to the Mohave
Village — Meeting with Trapp and Jervais — Infamous Conduct at the
Moquis Village — The Return March, ----- 141
CHAPTER IX.
In the Camanche Country — A Surprise and a Rapid Movement — The
Mule Fort — A Camanche Charge — Sure Aim — Another Charge — More
Dead Indians — Woman's Weapon, the Tongue — Fearful Heat and Suf-
ferings from Thirst — The Escape by Night — The South Park—Death
of Guthrie — ^Meeting with Itonneville — Indignant Reproaches, - - 154
CHAPTER X.
Gossip at Rendezvous — Adventures in the Crow Country — Fitzpatrick
Picked by the Crows and Flies from Them — Honor among Thieves —
Unfair Treatment of Wyeth — Bonneville Snubbed at Walla- Walla —
He Rejects good Countiel — Wyeth's Threat, and its Fulfillment — Divis-
ion of Territory, --------
16d
CHAPTER XI.
In the Blackfoot Country — A Visit to Wyeth's Trappers — Sorry Expe-
"iiinces — Condolence and its Effect — The Visitors become Defenders —
A Battle with Fire and Sword — Fighting for Life — The Trappers* Vic-
tory— A Trapping Excursion — Meek Plays a Trick and has one Played
en Hira — A Run to Camp— Taking up Traps — A Blackfoot Ambush —
A, Running Fire — A lucky Escape — Winter Camp on the Yellowstone —
Interpretation of a Dream — A Buffalo Hunt and a Blackfoot Surprise —
Meek's Mule Story, --.....
166
CHAPTER XII.
Setting up as a Family Man — First Love — Cut out by the Booshway —
Reward of Constancy — ^Bea ity of Umentucken — Her Dress, Her Horse
and Equipments — Anecdotic of the Mountain Lamb— Her Quarrel with
'Tie Trapper — Capture by Crows — Her Rescue — Meek Avenges an In-
sult— A Row in Camp — The Female Element — Death of Umentucken, 175
2
ziT
CONTBNTS.
Paob.
CHAPTER XIII.
ViBitOTs at Rendezvous — Advent of Missionaries — What Brought Them'
Bonneville's account of uhe Nez Perces and Flathead^^An Enthmiastio
View of Their Characters— Origin of some of Their BefliKiotts Observ-
ances— An Indian's Idea &f a God — Material Good DesR'ed — 'Histake
of the MissionarieR — First Sermon in the Rocky Monntains-^laiterrapt0d
by Buffaloes — Precept and Example — Dr. Whitman'* CharictAp— The
Missionaries Separate — Dr. Whitman Returns to th« StAtes, • - 161
CHAPTER XIV.
Meek Falls into the Hands of Crows— The Story as lAe telH I^->^H« Psek*
Moccasins, and Bears the Jeers of the Fair Sex — Bridgev's Camp Dis-
covered and the Lie Found out — A Desperate Situation — Signaling the
Horse-Guard — A Parley with Bridger — Successf*! Strategy — Capture
of Little-Gun — Meek Set at Liberty with a New Name — A Fort Be-
sieged by Bears — A Lazy Trapper — The Decoy of the Delawarea —
Winter Amusements — The Ishmaelite of the Wilderness — March
through the Crow Country — Return to Green River — Punishment of the
Bannacks — Consolidation — An Excursion — Intercepted by Crows — A
Scattered Camp — The Escape, - - - - - 189
CHAPTER XV.
An Express from Fitzpatrick — The Approach of Missionaries Announc-
ed— The Caravan Welcomed by a Party of Trappers — Noisy Demonstrsr
tions — Curiosity of the Indians — The Missionary Ladies — Preparations
in the Indian Villages — Reception of the Missionaries by the Nez Perces
and Flatheads — Kind Treatment from the Hudson's Bay Company-^
The Missionaries' Land of Promise — Visit to Fort Vancouver — Selection
of Missionary Stations, ....... 20I
CHAPTER XVI.
The Den of Rattlesnakes— The Old Frenchman— How to Keep Snakes
out of Bed — The Prairie Dog's Tenants at Will— Fighi. with Blackfeet —
Policy of War — A Duel Averted — A Run-away Bear — Meek's Best Bear
Fight— Winter Quarters on Powder Rivei^-Robbing Bonneville's Men, 214
CHAPTER XVII.
A Dissipated Camp— A Crow Carousal— Picked Crows— A Fight with
Blackfeet— ManLaad Killed— Night Visit to the Blackfoot Village—
" Cooning a River " — Stanley the Indian Painter— Desperate Fight
with Blackfeet—" The Trapper's Last Shot "—War and Peace— In the
Wrong Camp— To Rendezvous on Wind River— Mr. Gray, and His
Adventures — Massacre of Indian Allies — Capt. Stuait Robbed by
Crows — Newell's Address to the Chiefs, .... S2S
C0t«PB«T8.
XV
ViiOL
CHAPTER XVIIJ.
f)ecline of the Fur Trade — Wild Scenes at Bendezvous — A Missionary
Party — Entertained by a War Dance — Meek in Atmof — Desfert.;d by
his Indian Spouse — The Ptu-suit — Meek abtises a Missionary anti KM-
naps his Wife — Meek's Black Eyed Daughter — Singing for a Biscuits-
Trapping Again — A hot March, and Fearful Sufilfering from Thirst —
The Old Flathead Woman— Water at Last, - - - - 237
CHAPTER XIX.
A Chat about Buffalo Hunting— Buffalo Horses— The Start— The Pur-
suit— '!rhe Charge — Tumbles— Horsemanship — The Glory of Mountain
Life — How a Nez Perce Village Hunts Buffalo — Kit Carson and th ^
Frenchman on a Run — Mountain Manners, - - - - 246
CHAPTER XX.
The Solitaiy Trapper — A Jest — Among the Nez Perces — Their Eagerness
to be Taught — Meek is Called upon to Preach — He modestly Complies —
Asks for a Wife — Polygamy Defended — Meek Gets a Wife — The
Preacher's Salary — Surprised by Blackfeet — Death of Allen — The Last
Rendezvous — Anecdote of Shawnee Jim — The new Wife Missing —
Meeting with Farnham — Cold and Famine — Succor and Food — Parties
at Fort Crockett— Setting up in Trade— How Al. Saved His Bacon-
Bad Times— War upon Horse Thieves— In Search of Adventmes —
Green River Canyon—Runnlna; Antelope— Gambling— Vain Hunt for
Rendezvous— Reflections and Half-Resolves— The last Trapping Expe-
dition, - - - - . . . - . 251
CHAPTER XXI.
A new Start in Life— Mountain-Men for Pioneers— Discovery of the Co-
lumbia River— What Capt. Gray Did— What Vanconver Did— The
United States' Claim to Oregon— First Missionaries to the Wallamet —
John McLaughlin— Hospitalities of Fort Vancouver— The Mission Re-
inforced—Other l^ttlers in the Wallamet Valley— How they Regarded
the Mission— The California Cattle Company— Distribution of Settlers, 264
CHAPTER XXII.
Westward Ho I— Opening Wagon Roads— Republicanism— Fat Pork for
Preachers— Mission Work at Waiilatpu— Helen Mar— Off for the Wal-
Inmet— Wagons Left at Walla-Walla— The D-Ups M5«!>inn — Indian
Prayers— The Missionaries and the Mountain-Men- The Impious Cana-
dian—Doing Penance -l>owri the Culumbia— Trouble with Indians-
Arrival at the Wallamet— Ilungur, and Dependence on Fort Vahcouver—
Meeting Old Comradi's— Si'ttling oj» the Tualatin Plains— A disagreeable
Winter— Taking Claims— Who furnished the Seed Wheat, - . 271
xvi
ooNTKsrrs.
CHAPTER XXIII.
FA.OS.
Seareitjof Employmnnt — Wilkes' Exploring Expedition — Meek Employed
AS Pilot — Interchange of Coarteeies &t Vancouver — " The Peacock " —
Unpleasant Reminder — Exploring the Cowelitz — Wilkes' Chronometer —
Land Expedition to California — Meek Discharged — Gleaning Wheat —
Fifty Miles for an Axe — Visit to the New Mission — Praying for a Cow —
Mftniage Ceremony, ....... 280
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Brooding of Events — Arrival o' the Ch-^namns — Meek Celebrates the
Fourth of July — Dr, Whitman Goes to Washington — An Alarming
Feature — Mission Stations of the Upper Country — Discontent of the
Indians — The Missiontiries Insulted and Threatened — Mrs. Whitman
Frightened Away from Waiilatpu, ..... 28S
CHAPTER XXV.
The Plot Thickens— The Wolf Association — Suspicions of the Canadians —
"Who's for a Divide?"— The Die Cast— A Shout for Freedom— Meek
Appointed Sheriff— The Provisional Government, ... 891
CHAPTER XXVI.
Arrival of the Immigration at the Dalles — Wagons Abandoned— Pitiable
Condition of the Women and Children — Aid from the Hudson's Bay
Company — Perils of the Columbia — Wrec t of the Boat — Wonderful
Escape — Trials of the New Colonists — The Generous Savage — The Bare-
foot Lawyer — Meek's Pumpkin — Privation of the Settlers — Shopping
under Difficulties — Attempt to Manufacture Ardent Spirits — Dilemma
of the People — An Appeal — The Sheriff Destroys the Distillery — Anec-
dote of Dr. White and Madam Cooper — Meek Levies on Her Whisky —
First Offlc al Act of the Sheriff, .894
CHAPTER XXVII.
Excitement about Indians — Dr. White's Flogging Law — Indian Revenge-
Raid of the Klamaths — Massacre of Indians — Aff^y at the Falls —
Death of Cockstock — Death of LeBreton and Rogers — " You'd Better
Run" — Meek's Policy with the Indians — Meek and the Agent — Tlie
Borrowed Horse — Solemn Audacity — Wonderful Transformation — Tem-
perance — Courts — Anecdote of Judge Nesmith — Early Days of Port-
land— An Indian Carousal — Meek " Settles the Indians" — The Immigra-
tion of 1845 — The Cascade Mountnin Road-Hunters — Hunger and
Peril — A Last Request — Succor at the Last Moment — A Reason for
Patriotism, . . 806
CONTENTS.
mi
CHAPTER XXVIII.
DifBculty of Ck)lleeting Taxes— A Ponderoua Carrraey— Dr. MelAnghlin's
Ox— An Exciting Year— The Boundary Qaestion— " Pifty-fonr-forty or
Pight"— War Vessela in the Columbia— Lou of the Shark— Meek Re.
ceivea a Salute — Schenck Arrested — The Color-Stand of the Shark —
" Sonaet at the Mouth of the Columbia," • . « .
CHAPTER XXIX.
"The Adventnres of a Columbia River Salmon " — History of the Immlgm*
tion of 1846 — Opening of Southern Route to the Wallamet — Tragie
Fate of the California Immigrants — Su£ferings of the Oregon Immi-
grants—Tardy Relief— Celebrating the Fourth of July— Visit to the
Ship Brutus — An Insult to the Mountain-Men — The Indignity Resented
with a TwelTe-Pounder — Dr. McLaughlin luterferea — Re-election of
Meek — Largs Immigration — Failure of the Territorial Bill— Affray
between Immigrants and Indians at the Dalles — Meeting of the Legis-
latnre— Falling of the Thunderbolt. • • • ' • 825
CHAPTER XXX.
Trouble with the Up-Country Indians — Causes of their Dieqniet — Their
Opinion of the Americana — "Humbugged and Cheated" — Fear of
Greater Frauds in the Future — Resolve not to Submit— Their Feelings
Toward Dr. Whitman — Acts of Violence — Influence of the Catholic
Missionariec — A Season of Severe SicknesB — What Provoked the Massa-
cre— Joe Lewis the Half-Breed — The Fatal Test — Sickness Among the
Immigrants — Dr. Whitman's Family — Persons at the Mission and Mill —
Helen Mar— Arrival of Mr. Whitman and his Daughter- A Night Visit
to the Umatilla— In the Lodge of Stickas, the Walla- Walla Chief—
The Warning of Stickas and His Family— The Death Song—" Beware
of the Caynses at the Mission 1 " — Mr. Spaulding meets Brouillet, the
Catholic Bishop—News of the Massacre — Escape to the Woods— Night
Journeys to Lapwai, • • • . • • • t84
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Tragedy at Widilatpu — Dr. Whitman's Arrival at Home— Monday
Morning at the Mission — Commencement of the Massacre — The First
Victim—" Oh, the Indians I "—Horrors of the Attack— Shooting of Mrs.
Whitman— Treachery of Jo Lewis — Sufferings of the Children— Indian
Orgies— The Victims Tortured— The Two Compassionate Indians— A
Night of Horror— Remarkable Escape of Mr. Osborne and Family-
Escape and Fate of Mr. Hall— Cruel Treatment of Fcgitives— Kindness
of Mr. Stanley— Inhoppitable Reception at Fort Walla -Walla— Touch-
ing Kindness of Stickas, 844
• XVIU
i
1
'i
OONT&NltS.
CHAPTER XXXII.
tAV-
Horrors of the Waijlatpu Massacres — Exemption of the Catholics — Charges
of the Protestants — Natural Suspicions — Further Particulars of the Ma*.
sacre — Cruelty to the Children — Fate of the Young Women — Miis
Bulee and the Priests — Lapwai Mission — Arrival of Mr. Camfield — An
Indian Trait — Heroism of Mrs. Spalding — Appeal to the Chiefs — Arrival
of the News — Lapwai Plundered — Treachery of Joseph — Arrival of Mr.
Spalding — Detained as Hostages — Ransomed by the H. B. Company —
The " Blood of the Martyrs " — Country Abandoned to the Indians —
Subsequent Return of Mr. Spalding to the Nez Perces, ... 868
CHAPTER XXXI II.
The Call to Arms — Meetings and Speeches — Ways and Means of De-
fence— The first Regiment of Oregon Riflemen — Messenger to the Crov-
emor of Califorria — Meek Chosen Messenger to the President of the
United States — He Proceeds to the Dalles — Tlie Army Marches to
Waiilatpu — A Skirmish with the Des Chutes — Burial of the Victims —
Meek Escorted to the Blue Mountains, - ... - 883
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Meek's Party — Precautions against Indians — Meeting with Banns^sks —
White Lies — Fort Hall — Deep Snows — Horses Abandoned — The Moun-
tain Spirit Returning — Meeting with Peg-Leg Smith — A Mountain
Revel — Meeting with An Old Leader — Reception at Fort Laramie —
Passing the Sioux Village — Courtesy of a French Trader — Reflections
on Nearing the Settlements — Resolve to Remain Joe M ek — Reception
at St. Joseph—" The Quickest Trip Yet "—Arrival at St. Louis— Meek
as Steamboat Runner — Interview with the Stage Agent at AVheeling —
Astonishing the Natives — The Puzzled Conductor — Arrival st Wash-
ington, - - - - - - - - -868
CHAPTER XXXV.
Meek Dines at Colen^an's — A Sensation — An Amusing Scene — Becpg-
nized by Senator Underwood — Visit to the President — Cordial Recep-
tion by the Family of Polk — Some Doubts of Himself— Rapid Recovery
of Self-Possession — Action of the Friends of Oregon — The Two Oregon
Representatives — Tlie Ocego' Bill in the Senate — Mr. Thornton —
Meek's Successful Debut in ociety — Curiosity of Ladies — Kit Carson
and the " Conthtgent Fund ' Meek's Remarkable Popularity — Invited
to Baltimore by the City »Jouncil — Escorts the President — Visit to
Lowell — The Factory Girls — Some Natural Regrets — Kindness of Mrs.
Polk and Mrs. Walker — Commodore Wilkes — Oregon Lies — Getting
Franked — Champagne Suppers, - - . . . 391
M
CONTENTS.
xix
CIIArTER XXXVI.
Meek Appointed U. S. Marshal for Oregon — " Home Sweet Home " — Pay
of the Delegates — The Lion's Share — Meek's Interview with Gov.
Lane — Buying out a Peddler — The Escort of Riflemen — The Start from
St. Louis, and the Route — Meeting Price's Army — An Adventure and
a Pleasant Surprise — Leaving the Wagons — Desertion of Soldiers —
Drought — The Trick of the Yumas — Demoralization of the Train —
Rumors of Gold— Gen. Lane's Coffee— The Writer's Reflection— The
Party on Foot — Extreme Sufferings — Arrival at William's Ranch —
Speculation in Silks and Jack-Knives — Miners at Los Angelos — Ore-
gonians at San Francisco — Nat Lane and Meek Take the Gold Fever —
Meek's Investment — The Governor and Marshal Quarrel — Pranks
with a Jew — A Salute — Arrival in Oregon City, - - - 894
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Lane's Course with the Cayuae Indians — Magnanimity of the Savages —
Rebuke to Their Captors — Their Statements to Meek — ITie Puzzle of
Indian Ethics — Incidents of the Trial and Execution — State of the
Upper Country for A Term of Years — How Meek Was Received in Ore-
gon— His Incurable Waggishness — Scene in a Court-Room — Contempt
of Court — Judge Nelson and the Carpenters — Two Hundred Lies — An
Excursion by the Oregon Court — Indians Tried for Murder — Proceed-
ings of a Jury — Sentence and Execution of the Indians — The Chiefs
Wife — Cost of Proceediogs— Line's Career in Oregon — Gov. Davis, 408
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Meek as U. S. Marshal— The Captain of the Melvin— The British Smug-
gler— Returning a Compliment — " Barly Enough for the Officers of the
Court" — Misused Confidence — Indian Disturbances — The Indian War
of 1865-6— Gen Wool and Gov. Curry— Officers of the War— How the
Volunteers Fared — Meek as a Volunteer — Feasting and Fun — " Mark-
ing Time "—End of Meek's Public Career- 41T
T
I
i
E
1 5*
«! ?.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
English Touhists' Camp— Doubtful Friends. — Frontispieet.'i
Winter Couriers of the North-west Fur Company,
A Station of the Hudson's Bay Company,
Watching for Indian Horse-Thieves, -
Map of the Fur Country,
The Enlistment, ....
The Summer Rendezvous,
Beavers at Work, - - - -
Hunters' Winter Camp,
The Three " Bares,"
The Wrong End of the Tree,
Scouts in the Blackfoot Country — "Elk or Indians
Branding Cattle in Southern California,
A Fight with Camancues— The Mule Fort
View on the Columbia,
The Free Trapper's Indian Wife,
V Indians, by Jove I " -
Descending the Blue Mountains, •
The Bear in Camp,
Satisfied with Bear Fighting,
Cache, - - - - .
The Trapper's Last Shot,
The Squaw's Escape, - . -
Horse-Tail Falls, • • •
A Buffalo Hunt, ...
Castle Rock, Columbia Riveb,
Wrecked in the Rapids,
A Wild Indian in Town, -
The Cascade Mountain Road-Hunters,
Mount Hood from the Dalles, -
Massacre of the Whitman Family, -
Meek as a Steamboat Runnkr,
" Take Care Knox," -
A Mountain man in Clover, . . -
Gov. Lane and Meek on the Colorado Dssebt,
Meek as U. S. Marshal — Scene iir a Court-boom,
.■17
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hit:
PREFATORY CHAPTER
An AccooNr of the Hudson's Bay Company's Intebcodrse with thb
Indians of the North-West Coast; with a Sketch of the Differ-
ent American Fub Companies, and their Dealings with the
Tbibes of the Rocky Mountains.
In the year 1818, Mr. Prevost, acting for the United States, received Aetoria
back from the British, who had taken possesgion, as narrated by Mr. Irving,
four years previous. The restoration took place in conformity with the treaty
of Ghent, by which those places captured during the war were restored to their
original possessors. Mr. Astor stood ready at that time to renew his enterprise
on the Columbi \ River, had Congress been disposed to grant him the necessary
protection which the undertaking required. Failing to secure this, when the
United States sloop of war Ontario sailed away from Astoria, afler having
taken formal possession of that place for our Government, tht .- intry was lefl to
the occupancy, (scarcely a joint-occupancy, since there were then no American»
here,) of the British traders. Afler the war, and while negotiations were
going on between Great Britain and the United States, the fort at Astoria had
remained m possession of the North-West Company, as their principal establish-
ment west of the mountains. It had been considerably enlarged since it had
come into their possession, and was furnished with artillery enough to have
frightened into friendship a much more warlike people than the subjects of old.
king Comcomly ; who, it will be remembered, was not at first very weH disposed
towards the " King George men," having learned to look upon the " Boston^
men " as his friends in his earliest intercourse with the whites. At this time
Astoria, or FoH George, as the British traders called it, contained sixty-five
inmates, twenty-three of whom were whites, and the remainder Candiao half-
breeds and Sandwich Islanders. Besides this number of men, there were a few-
women, the native wives of the men, and their half-breed ofiTspring. The situ-
ation of Astoria, however, was not favorable, being near the sea coast, and not
surrounded with good farming lands such as were required for the fiirnishing
of provisions to the fort. Therefore, when in 1821 it was destroyed by fire, it
was only in part rebuilt, but a better and more convenient location for the head-
quarters of the North-West Company was sought for in the interior.
About this time a quarrel of long standing between the Hudson's Bay and
North-West Companies culminated in a baUle between their men in the Red
T
24
FOUT VANCOUVER.
i
River coiintrj', rcRultinfj in n conHi(l«Tiil)lt' Iohh of lifo anil property. IIiIh afTair
<li-uw till) utleiitiuii ui° thu (rovurniiu^it at liumu ; titu rightH of tlit) rival cuin-
panioH were examined into, the uiuiliation of the Ministry Keoured, and a eoin-
promise effected, by which tlie North- West Company, which hwl nuecoeded in
dittposaessing the Ptu-ific Fur Company under Mr. Antor, wa8 merged into the
Hudttoii'8 Bay Company, whoMe name and fume are ho familiar to all the early
aettlem of Oregon.
At tlie Hanu? time, PiiiTianipnt passed an act by whi<'h the handu of the con-
solidated company were much strengenthed, and the pea<^:e and security of all
persons greatly insured ; but which became subseiiuently, Ht the joint occupancy
of the country, a cause of oll'ence to the American citizens, as we shall see
hereafter. This act allowed the commissioning of Justices of tlio Peat;c in all
the territories not belonging to the United States, nor already subject to grants.
Tliese justices were to execute and enforce the laws §nd deci»ion8 of the courts
of Uppt^r Canada ; to take evidence, and commit and send to Canada fur trial /
the guilty ; and even in some cases, to hold courts themselves for the trial of
criminal offences and misdemeanors not punishable with death, or of civil causes
in which the amount at issue should not exceed two hundred pounds.
Thus in 1824, the North- West Company, whose perfidy had occasioned buch
loss and mortification to the enterprising New York merchant, became itself a
thing of the past, and a new rule began in the region west of the llocky Moun-
tains. Hie old fort at Astoria having b<>dn only so far rebuilt as to answer the
^needs of the hour, after due consideration, a site for head-tjuarters was selected
about one hundred miles from the sea, near the mouth of the "Wallamet River,
though opposite to it. Three considerations went to make up the eligibility of
the point selected. First, it was desirable, even necessarj', to settle upon good
agricultural lands, where the Company's provisions could be raised by the Com-
pany's servants. Second, it was important that the spot chosen should be npon
•waters navigable for the Company's vessels, or upon tide-water. Lastly, and
not leastly, the Company had an eye to the boundary question between Great
Britain and the United States ; and believing that the end of the controversy
■vro 'Id probably be to make the Columbia River the northern limit of the United
States territory, a spot on the northern bank of that river was considered a
good point for their fort, and possible future city.
The site chosen by the North- West Company in 1821, for their new fort,
combined all these advantages, and the further one of having been already
commenced and named. Fort Vancouver became at once on the accession of
the Hudson's Bay Company, the metropolis of the northwest coast, the center
of the fur trade, and the scat of government for that immense territory, over
•which roamed the hunters and trappers in the employ of that powerful corpo-
ration. This post was situated on the edge of a beautiful sloping plain on the
northern bank of the Columbia, about six miles above the upper mouth of the
Wallamet. At this point tiie Columbia spreads to a great width, and is divided
on the south side into bayous by long sandy islunds, covered with oak, ash, and
cotton-wood trees, making the noble river more attractive still by adding tlie
charm of curiosity concerning its actual breadth to its natural and ordinary
DKFENCKS AND IMPBOVI-iMKNTS.
26
nnvgnificence. Back of the fort tho land ro«o gently, covered with ft)rt>«t(t of fir;
and away to the eavt swelled the foot-hills uf tho Cascade range, then the moun-
tainH themselves, draped in liluiy azure, and over-topped five tliouoand teet by
the snowy cone of Mt. Ifood.
In this lonely sltuatiou grew up, with the disi)atch which characterized the
acts of tho Cuinpiuiy, a fort in most respects similar to the original one at
Astoria. It was nut, however, thought necessary to make so great a display oi'
artillery as had served to keep in order the subjects of Coracomly. A stockatJe
enclosed a space about eight hundred feet long by five hundred broad, liaving
a bastion at one corner, where were mounted three guns, while two eighteen
pounders and two swivels were planted in front of tho residence of tho Gov-
ernor ^nd chief factors. Theso commanded the main entrance to the tort,
besides wliich there were two other gatt^s in front, and another in tho rear.
Military precision was observed in tho precautious taken against surprises, as
well as in all tho rules of the place. The gates wore opened and closed at
certain hours, and were always guarded. No large number of ludians were
permitted within the enclosure at the same time, and every employee at the fort
knew and {)ertbrmed his duty with punctuality.
Tho buildings within the stockade were the Governor's and chief factori'
residences, stores, offices, work-.shops, magazines, warehouses, &c.
Year by year, up to 1835 or '40, improvements continued to go on in and
about tho fort, tlio chief of which was the cultivation of the large farm and
garden outside the enclosure, and the erection of a hospital building, large barns,
servants' houses, and a boat-house, all outside of the fort ; so that at the period
when tho Columbia River was a romance and a mystery to the people of the
United States, quite a flourishing and beautii'ul village adorned its northern
shore, and that too erected and sustained by the enemies of American enter-
prise on soil commonly believed to belong to the United States : fair foes the
author firmly believes them to have been in those days, yet foes nevertheless.
The system on which the Hudson's Bay Company conducted its business was
tho result fT long experience, and was admirable for its method and its justice also.
When a young man entered its service as a clerk, his wages were small for sev-
eral years, increasing only as his ability and good conduct entitled him to advance-
ment. When his salary had reached one hundred pounds sterling he became
eligible to a chief-tradership as a partner in tho coocem, from which position
he was promoted to the rank of a chief factor. No important business was
ever intrusted to an inexperienced person, a policy which almost certainly pre-
vented any serious errors. A regular tariff was established on the Company's
goods, comprising all the articles used in their trad«> —'^h the Indians ; nor was
the quality of their goods ever allowed to deterir .te. A price was also fixed
upon furs according to their market value, and an Indian knowing this, knew
exactly what he could purchase. No bartering was allowed. When skins
were offered for salo at the fort they - ere hinded to the clerk tlirough a win-
dow like a post-office delivery-window, and their value in the article desired,
returned through the same aperture. All these regulations were of the high-
est importance to the good order, safety, and profit of the Company. The con-
26
INTOXICATING LIQUORS.
fidencc of tho Indians was sure to be gained by the constancy and good faith
always observed toward them, and the Company obtained thereby numerous
and powerful allies in nearly all the tribes.
As soon as it was possible to make the change, the Indians were denied the
use of intoxicating drinks, the appetite for which had early been introduced
among them by coasting vessels, and even continued by the Pacific Fur Com-
pany at Astoria. It would have been dangerous to have suddenly deprived
them of the coveted stimulus ; therefore the practice must be discontinued by
many wise arts and devices. A public notice was given that the sale of it
would be stopped, and the reasons for this prohibition explained tu the Indians.
Still, not to come into direct conflict with their appetites, a little was sold to
tha chiefs, now and then, by the clerks, who affected to be running the greatest
risks in violating the order of the company. The strictest secrecy was enjoined
on the lucky chief who, by the friendship of some under-clerk, was enabled to
smuggle off* a bottle under his blanket. But the cunning clerk had generally
managed to get his " good friend " into a state so cleverly between drunk and
sober, before he entrusted him with the precious bottle, that he was sure to
betray himself. Leaving the shop with a mien even more erect than usual,
with a gait affected in its majesty, and his blanket tightened around him to
conceal his secret treasure, the chuckling chief would start to cross the grounds
within the fort. If he was a new customer, he was once or twice permitted to
play his Uttle game with the obliging clerk whose particular friend he was, and
to escape detection.
But by-and-by, when the officers had seen the offence repeated more than
once from their purposely contrived posts of observation, one of them would
skillfully chance to intercept the guilty chief at whose comical endeavors to
appear sober he was inwardly laughing, and charge him with being intoxicated.
Wresting away the tightened blanket, the bottle appeared as evidence that
could not be controverted, of the duplicity of the Indian and the unfaithfulness
of the clerk, whose name was instantly demanded, that he ftiight be properly
punished. When the chief again visited the fort, his particular friend met him
with a sorrowful countenance, reproaching him for having been the cause of
his disgrace and loss. This reproach was the surest means of preventing an-
other demand for rum, the Indian being too magnanimous, probably, to wish to
get his friend into trouble ; while the clerk affected to fear the consequences
too much to be induced to take the risk another time. Thus by kind and care-
ful means the traffic in liquors was at length broken up, which otherwise would
have ruined both Indian and trader.
To the company's servants liquor was sold or allowed at certain times : to
those on the sea-board, one half-pint two or three times a year, to be used, as
medicine, — not that it was always needed or used for this purpose, but too strict
inquiry into its use was wisely avoided,— and for this the company demanded
pay. To their servants in the interior no l^.j-Jor was sold, but they were fur-
nished as a gratuity Vi^ith one pint on ieavi.ig rendezvous, and another on arriv-
ing at winter quarters. By this managen.ent, it became impossible tor them to
and good faith
reby numerous
sre denied the
;en introduced
iific Fur Com-
lenly deprived
iscontinued by
the sale of it
to tlic Indians.
;le was sold to
ig the greatest
y was enjoined
fras enabled to
had generally
ten drunk and
le was sure to
ct than usual,
iround him to
ss the grounds
5 permitted to
id he was, and
ted more than
r them would
endeavors to
g intoxicated,
evidence that
unfaithfulness
be properly
lend met him
the cause of
•eventing an-
ly, to wish to
consequences
ind and care-
erwise would
lin times: to
to be used, as
but too strict
ly demanded
ley were fur-
her on arriv-
i tor them to
ABBIVAL OF "THE BHIOADB.
27
dispose of uriuk to the Indians ; their small allowance being always immedi-
ately consumed in a meeting or parting carouse.
Tlie arrival of men from the interior at Fort Vancouver usually took place
:n the month of June, when the Columbia was high, and a stirring scene it
was. The chief traders generally contrived thf^r march through the upper
country, their camps, and their rendezvous, so as to meet the Express which
annually came to Vancouver from Canada and the Red River settlements.
They then descended the Columbia together, and arrived in force at the Fort.
This annual fleet went by the name of Brigade — a name which suggested a
military spirit in the crews that their appearance failed to vindicate; Yet,
though there was nothing warlike in the scene, there was much that was excit-
ing, picturesque, and even brilliant ; for these couriers de bois, or wood-rangers,
and the voi/afjeur.i, or boatmen, wei-e the most foppish of mortals when they
came to renc'ezvous. Then, too, there was an exaltation of spirits on their safe
arrival at lead-quarters, after their year's toil and danger in wildernesses,
among Indians arid wild beasts, exposed to famine and accident, that almost
deprived them of what is called " common sense," and compelled them to the
most fantastic excesses.
Their well-understood peculiarities did not make them the less welcome at
Vancouver. When the cry was given — " the Brigade I the Brigade ! " — there
was a general rush to the river's bank to witness the spectacle. In advance
cam(! tli3 chief-trader's barge, with the company's flag at the bow, and the
cross of St. George at the stern : the licet as many abreast as the turnings of
the rivt«r allowed. With strong and skillful strokes the boatmen governed their
richly laden boats, keeping them in line, and at the same time singing in chorus
a loud and not unmusical hunting or boating song. The gay ribbons and feath-
ers v/ith Avhicb the singers were bedecked took nothing from the picturesque-
ness of their ippearance. The broad, full river, sparkling in the sunlight,
gemmed with emerald islands, and bordered with a rich growth of flowering
shrubbery ; the smiliug plain surrounding the Fort ; the distant mountains,
where glittered the sentinel Mt. Hood, all came gracefully into the picture, and
seemed to furnish a fitting back-ground and middle distance for the bright bit
of coloring given by the moving life in the scene. As with a skillful sweep ihe
brigade touched the bank, and the traders and men sprang on shore, the first
cheer wh'c'h had welcomed their appearance was heartily repeated, while a gay
clamor of questions and answers followed.
After the business immediately incident to their arrival had been dispatched,
then took place the regale of pork, flour, and spirits, wlach was sure to end in
a carouse, during which blackened eyes and broken noses wei-e not at a}\ un-
common ; but though blood was made to flow, life was never put seriously in
peril, and the belligerent parties were the best of friends when the fracas was
ended.
The business of excliango being completed in three or four weeks — the rich
stores of peltries consigned to their places in the warehouse, and the boats re-
laden with goods for the next year's trade with the Indians in the upper country,
a parting carouse took place, and with another parade of feathers, ribboni, and
28
OTHER YEARLY ARRIVALS.
othc- finery, the brigade departed with songs and cheers as it had come, but
with probably heavier liearts.
It would be a stoiu morality indeed which could look upon the excesses of
this peculiar class as it would upon the same excesses committed by men in the
enjoyment of all the comforts and pleasures of civilized life. For them, duiing
most of the year, was only an out-door life of toil, watchfulness, peril, and
isolation. When they arrived at the rendezvous, for the brief period of their
stay they were allowed perfect licens' \>.cau8e nothing else would content
them. Although at head-quarters they were still in the wilderness, thousands
of miles from civilization, with no chance of such recreations as men in the
continual enjoyment of life's sweetest pleasures would naturally seek. For
them there was only one method of seekiilg and finding temporary oblivion of
the accustomed hardship ; and whatever may be the strict rendering of man's
duty as an immortal being, we cannot help being somewhat lenient at times to
Lis errors as a mortal.
After the departure ,,f the boatfl, there was another arrival at the Fort, of
trappers from the Snake River county. Previous to 1832, such were the dan-
gers of the fur trade in tliis regio that only the most experienced trader*
W(..e suffered to conduct a party through it; and even they weiv frequently
attacked, and sometimes sustained serious losses of men and animals. Subse-
quently, however, the Hudson's Bay Company obtained such an influence over
even these hostile tribes as to make it safe for a party of no more than two of
their men to travel through this much dreaded region.
There was another im|)ortant arrival at Fort Vancouver, usually in mid-
summer. This was the Company's supply ship from London. In the possible
event of a vessel being lost, one cargo was always kept on store at Vancouver ;
but for which wise regulation, much trouble and disaster might have resulted,
especially in the early days of the establishment. Occasionally a vessel foun-
dered at sea or was lost on the bar of the Columbia ; but these losses did not
interrupt the regular transaction of business. The arrival of a ship from Lon-
don was the occasion of great bustle and excitement also. She brought not
only goods for the posts throughout the district of the Columbia, but letters,
papers, private parcels, and all that seemed of so much value to the little
isolated world at the Fort.
A company conducting its business with such method and regidarity as hm
been described, was certain of success. Yet some credit also must attach to
certain individuals ih its service, whose faithfulness, zeal, and ability in cari-y-
hjg out its designs, contributed largely to its welfare. Such a man w« at the
head of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs in the large and important dis-
trict west of the Rocky Mountains. The Company never h*d in its service a
more efficient man than Gov. John Mclvaughlin, njore commonly cailled Dr.
McLaughlin.
To the discipline, at once severe at J just, which Dr. McLaughUn <naintua«d
in hi« district, was due the safety and prosperity of the company he served,
and tlie servants of that company generally ; as well as, at a later ^riod. of
the emigration which followed the hunter and trapper into the wilda of Oregonv
PUNISHME.JT OF INDIAN OKFENDKKS.
2i»
Careful as were all the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, they co\»lcl not
always avoid conflicts with the Indians ; nor was their kindudss and justice
always suffioiontlj appreciated to prevent the outbreak of savage instincts.
Fort Vancouver haA been threatened in an early day ; a vessel or two had
been k)8t in which the Indians were suspected to have heen implicated ; at
long intervals a trader was murdered in the interior; or mor3 frequently,
Indian insolence put to the test both the wisdom and courage of the officers to-
prevent an outbreak.
When murders and robberies were committed, it was the custom at Fort
Vancouver to send a strong party to demand the offenders from their tribe ;
Such was the well known power and influence of the Company, and suca the
wholesome fear of the " King George men," that this demand was never re-
siflted, and if the murderer could be found he was given up to be hung accord-
ing to " King George " laws. They were almost equally impelled to good con-
duct by the state of dependence on the company into which they had been
brought. Once they had subsisted and clothed themselves from the spoils of
the rivers and forest ; since they had tasted of the tree of knowledge of good
ajid evil, they could no more return to skins for raiment, nor to game alone for
food. Blankets and flour, beads, guns, and ammunition had become dear to
their heart* : for all these things they mast love and obey the Hudson's Bay
Company. Another fine stroke of policy in the Company was to destroy the
chieftain-ships in the various tribes ; thus weakening them by dividing them
and preventing dangerous coalitions of the leading spirits : for in savage as
well as civilized life, the many are governed by the few.
It may not be uninteresting in this place to give a few anecdotes of the man-
ner in which conflicts with the Indians were prevented, or ofiences punished
by the Hudson s Bay Company. In the year 1828 the ship William and Ann
was cast away just inside the bar of the Columbia, under circumstances which
seemed to direct suspicion to the Indians in that vicinity. Whether or not
they had attacked the ship, not a soul was saved from the wreck to tell how
she w<<d lost. On hearing that the ship had gone to pieces, and that the In-
dians had appropriated a jwrtion of her cargo. Dr. McLaughlin sent a message
to the chiefs, ddnanding restitution of the stolen goods. Nothing was returned
by the i^essenger except one or two worthless articles. Immediately an armed
Ibree was sent to the scene of the robbery with a fresh demand for the goods,
which tl«c chiefs, in view of their spoils, thought proper to resist by firing upon
the reclaiming party. But they were not unprepared ; and a swivel was dis-
charged to let the savages know what they might expect in the way of fire-
arms. The argument was comjlusive, the Indians fleeing into the woods.
While making search for the goo<ls, a portion of which were found, a chief
was observed skulking near, and cocking his gun ; on which motion one of the
men fired, and he fell. This prompt action, the justice of which the Indians
Well understood, and the intimidating power of the swivel, put an end to the in-
cipient war. Care was then taken to impress upon their minds that they must
not expect to profit by the disasters of vessels, nor be tempted to murder white
men for the sake uf plunder. The William and Ann was supposed to have got
I
80
IKDIAN STBATEGT.
aground, when the savages seeing her situation, boarded her and murdered the
crew lor the cargo which they knew her to contain, l^et as there were no posi-
tive proofs, only such measures were taken as would deter them from a similar
attempt in future. That the lesson was not lost, was proven two years later,
when the Isabella, from London, struck on the bar, her crew deserting her. In
tills instance no attempt was made to meddle with the vessel's cargo ; and as
the crew made their way to Vancouver, the goods were nearly all saved.
In a former voyage of the Willinm and Ann\a the Columbia River, she had
been sent on an exploring expedition to the Gulf of Georgia to discover the
mouth of Frazier's River, having on board a crew of forty men. Whenever
the ship came to anchor, two sentries were kept constantly on deck to guard
against any surprise or misconduct on the part of the Indians ; so adroit, how-
ever, were they in the light-fingered art, that every one of the eight cannon
with which the ship was armed was x'obbed of its ammunition, as was discovered
on leaving the river 1 Such incidents as these served to impress the minds of
the Company's officers and servants with the necessity of vigilance in their deal-
ings with the savages.
Not all their vigilance could at all times avail to prevent mischief. AVhen
Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, was on a visit
to Vancouver in 1829, he was made aware of this truism. The Governor was
on his return to Canada by way of the Red River Settlement, and had reached
the Dalles of the Columbia with his party. In making the portage at this
place, all the party except Dr. Tod gave their guns into the charge of two men
to prevent their being stolen by the Indians, who crowded about, and whose
well-known bad character made great care needful. All went well, no attempt
to seize either guns or other property being made until at the end of the port-
age the boats had been reloaded. As the party were about to re-embark, a
simultaneous ru«h was made by the Indians who had dogged their steps, to get
possession of the boats. Dr. Tod raised his gun immediately, aiming at the
head chief, who, not liking the prospect of so speedy dissolution, ordered his
•followers to desist, and the party were suffered to escape. It was soon after
discovered that every gun belonging to the party in the boat had been wet,
excepting the one carried by Dr. Tod ; and to the fact that the Doctor did carry
his gun, all the others owed their lives.
The great desire of the Indians for guns and ammunition led to many strata-
gems which were dangerous to the possessors of the coveted articles. Much
more dangerous would it ha^e been to have allowed them a free supply of these
things ; nor could an Indian purchase from the Company more than a stated
supply, which was to i^ used, not for the purposes of war, but to keep liimself
in game.
Dr. McLaughlin was himself once quite near falling into a trap of the Indians,
so cunningly laid as to puzzle even him. This was a report brought to him
by a deputation of Columbia River Indians, stating the startling fact that the
fort at Nesqually had been attacked, and every inmate slaughtered. To this
homble story, told with every appearance of truth, the Doctor listened with
incredulity mingled with apprehension. The Indians wei-e closely questiored
urdercd the
■ere no posi-
»in a similar
years later,
ng her. In
rgo; and as
saved.
ver, she had
discover the
Whenever
eck to guard
adroit, how-
ight cannon
IS discovered
he nunds of
in their deal-
hief. "When
iras on a visit
governor was
had reached
irtage at this
e of two men
t, and whose
1, no attempt
I of the port-
re-embark, a
steps, to get
aiming at the
, ordered his
as soon after
ad been wot,
ctor did carry
many strata-
tides. Much
apply of these
than a stated
keep liimsclf
if the Indians,
rought to him
fact that the
>rcd. To this
listened with
ily qucstiored
A HERO.
31
tind cross-iiuestioned, but did not conflict in their testimony. Tlic matter as-
sumed a very painful aspect. Not to be deceived, the Doctor had the unwel-
come messengers committed to custody while he could bring otlier wiinesses
from their tribe. But they were prepared for this, and the whole tribe were as
positive as those who brought the talc. Confounded by this cloud of witnesses,
Dr. McLaughlin had almost determined upon sending an armed force to Nes-
qually to inquire into the matter, ind if necessary, punish the Indians, when a
detachment of men arrived from tl. at post, and the plot was exposed 1 The
design of the Indians had been simply to cause a division of the force at Van-
couver, after which they believed they might succeed in capturing and plunder-
ing the fort. Had they truly been successful in this undertaking, every other
trading-post in the country would have been destroyed. But so long as the
head-quarters of the Company remained secure and powerful, the other stations
were comparatively safe.
An incident which has been several times related, occmTcd at fort Walla-
Walla, and shows how narrow escapes the interior traders sometimes made.
The hero of this anecdote was Mr. McKinlay, one of the most estimable of the
Hudson's Bay Company's officers, in charge of the fort just named. An Indian
was one day lounging about the fort, and seeing some timbers lying in a heap
tliat had been squared for pack saddles, helped himself to one and commenced
cutting it down into a whip handle for his own use. To this procedure Mr.
McK inlay's clerk demurred, first telling the Indian its use, and then ordering
him to resign the piece of timber. The Indian insolently replied that the tim-
ber was his, and he should take it. At this the clerk, with more temper than
prudoiioc, struck the offender, knocking him over, soon after which the savage
leti the fort with sullen looks boding vengeance. The next day Mr. McKinlay,
not being informed of what had taken place, was in a room of the fort with his
clerk when a considerable party of Indians began dropping quietly in until
there were fifteen or twenty of them inside the building. The first intimation
of anything wrong McKinlay received was when he observed the clerk pointed
out in a particular manner by one of the party. He instantly comprehended
the purpose of his visitors, and with that quickness of thought which is habitual
to the student of savage nature, he rushed into the store room and returned
with a powder keg, flint and steel. By this time the unlucky clerk was strug-
gling for his life with his vindictive foes. Putting down the powder in their
midst and knocking out the head of the keg with a blow, McKinlay stood over
it ready to strike fire with his flint and steel. Thi' savages paused aghast.
They knew the nature of the " perilous stuff," and>also understood the trader's
purpose. " Come," said he with a clear, determined voice, " you are twentv
braves against us two : now touch him if you dare, and see who dies first " In
a moment the fort was cleared, and McKinlay was left to inquire the cause of
what had so nearly been a tragedy. It is hardly a subject of doubt whether or
not his clerk got a scolding. Soon afber, such was the powerful influence
exerted by these gentlemen, the chief of the tribe flogged the pilfering Indian
for the oiTence, and McKinlay became a great brave, a " big heart " for his
courage.
WW
h i:?
82
THE AMERICAN FUR COMPANIES.
It was indeed necessary to have courage, patience, and prudence in dealing
with tlie Indians. These the Hudson's Bay oificers generally possessed. Per-
haps the most irascible of them all in the Columbia District, was their chief,
Dr. McLaughlin ; but such was his goodness and justice that even tlie savages
recognized it, and he was hyas ti/ee, or great chief, in all respects to them.
Being on one occasion very much annoyed by the pertinacity of an Indian who
wai continually demanding pay for some stones with which the Doctor was
having a vessel ballasted, he seized one of some size, ami lli. usting it in the
Indian's mouth, cried out in a i'urious manner, " pay, pay I if the stones are
yours, take them and eat them, you rascal I Pay, pay I the devil I the devil I "
upon which explosion of wrath, the native owner of the soil thought it prudent
to withdraw his immediate claims.
There was more, however, in the Doctor's action than mere indulgence of
wrath. He understood perfectly that the savage values only what he can eat
and wear, and that as he could not put the stones to eith-^r of these uses, his
demand for pay was an impudent one.
Enough has been said to give th(^ reader an insight into Indian character, to
prepare his mind for events which are to follow, to convey an idea of the influ-
ence of the Hudson's Bay Company, and to show on what it was founded.
The American Fur Companies will now be sketched, and their mode of dealing
with the Indians contrasted with that of the British Company. The compari-
son will not be favorable ; but should any unfairness be suspected, a reference
to Mr. Irving's Bonneville, will show that the worthy Captain was forced to
witness against his own countrymen in his narrative of his hunting and trading
adventures in the Rocky Mountains.
The dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company, the refusal of the United States
Government to protect Mr. Astor in a second attempt to carry on a commerce
with the Indians west of the Rocky Mountains, and the occupation of that
country by British traders, had the effect to deter individual enterprise from
again attempting to establish commerce on the Pacific coast. Tlie people
waited for the Government to take some steps toward the encouragement of a
trans-continental trade ; the Government beholding the lion (British) in the
way, waited for the expiration of the convention of 1818, in the Micawber-like
hope that something would " turn up " to settle the question of territorial sov-
ereignty. The war of 1812 had been begun on the part of Great Britain, to
seciu-e the great western territories to herself for the profits of the fur trade,
almost solely. Failing in this, she had been compelled, by the treaty of Ghent,
to restore to the United States all the places and forts captured during that
war. Yet the forts and trading posts in the west remained practically in the
possession of Great Britain ; for her traders and fur companies still roamed the
country, excluding American trade, and inciting (so the frontiers-men believed),
the Indians to acts of blood and horror.
Congress being importuned by the people of the West, finally, in 1815, passed
an act expelling British traders from American territory east of the Rocky
Mouniains. Following the passage of this act the hunters and trappers of the
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN FUR COMPANY,
88
ol<l North American Company, at the head of which Mr. Aster still remained,
began to ran<;c the country about the head waters of the Mississippi and the
upper Missouri. Also a few American trailers had ventured into the northern
provinces of Mexico, previous to the overthrow of the Spanish Government ;
and after that event, a thriving trade (j;rew up between St. Louis and Santa Fe.
At length, in 1823, Mr. W. H. Ashley, of St. Louis, a merchant for a long
time engaged in the i'ur trade on the Missouri and its tributaries, determined to
push a trading party up to or beyond the Rocky Mountains. Following up
the Platte River, Mr. Ashley proceeded at the head of a large party with horses
and merchandise, as far as the northern branch of tlie Platte, called the Sweet-
water. This he explored to its source, situated in that remarkable depression
in the Rocky Mountains, known as the South Pass — the same which Fremont
discovered twenty years later, during which twenty years it was annually trav-
eled by trading parties, and just prior to Fremont's discovery, by missionaries
and emigrants destined to Oregon. To Mr. Ashley also belongs the credit of
having first explored the head-waters of the Colorado, called the Green River,
afterwards a favorite rendezvous of the American Fur Companies. The coun-
try about the South Pass proved to be an entirely new hunting ground, and
very rich in furs, as here many rivers take their rise, whose head-waters fur-
nished abundant beaver. Here Mr. Ashley spent the summer, returning to St.
Louis in the fall with a valuable collection of skins.
In 1824, Mr. Ashley repeated the expedition, extending it this time beyond
Green River as far as Great Salt Lake, near which to the south he discovered
another smaller lake, which he named Lake Ashley, after himself. On the
shores of this lake he built a fort for trading with the Indians, and leaving in it
nbout one hundred men, returned to St. Louis the second time with a large
amount of furs. During the time the fort was occupied by Mr. Ashley's men, a
period of three years, more than one hundred and eighty thousand dollars worth
of furs were collected and sent to St. Louis. In 1827, the fort, and all Mr.
Ashley's interest in the business, was sold to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company,
at the head of which were Jedediah Smith, William Sublette, and David
Jackson, Sublette being the leading spirit in the Company.
The custom of these enterprising traders, who had been in the mountains
since 1824, was to divide their force, each taking his command to a good hunt-
ing ground, and returning at stated times to rendezvous, generally appointed
on the head-waters of Green River. Frequently the other fur companies, (for
there were other companies formed on the heels of Ashley's enterprise,) learn-
ing of the plaoe appointed for the yearly rendezvous, brought their goods to
the same resort, when an intense rivalry was exhibited by the several traders
as to which company should soonest dispose of its goods, getting, of course, the
largest amount of furs from the trappers and Indians. So great was the com-
petition in the years between 1826 and 1829, when there were about six hun-
dred American trappers in and about the Rocky Mountains, besides those of
the Hudson's Bay Company, that it was death for a man of cne company to
dispose of his furs to a rival association. Even a " free trapper " — that is, one
not indenturea, but hunting upon certain terms of agreement concerning tho
34
ATlAl'K ON SMITH .S PARTY.
I \
price of his flirs nnd tho cost of \\\f, outfit, only, dared not sell to any other
company than the one ho had agreed with.
Jedediah Sraitli, of tho Itoclcy Mountain Fur Company, during their first
year in the mountains, took ti party of five trappers into Oregon, Wing tho
first American, trader or other, to cross into that country since the breaking
up of Mr. Astor's establishment. He trapped on the head-waters of tho Snake
River until autumn, when ho fell in with a ])arty of Hudson's Bay trappers,
and going with them to their post in the Flathead country, wintered there.
Again, in 1826, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, brought out a large number of
men to trap in tho Snake River country, and entered into direct competition
witli the Hudson's Bay Company, whom they opposed with hardly a degree
more of zeal than they competed with rival American traders : this one extra
degree being inspired by a " spirit of '76 " toward anything British.
After the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had extended its business by the
purchase of Mr. Ashley's interest, the partners determined to push their enter-
prise to the Pacific coast, regardless of the opposition they were likely to en-
counter from the Hudson's Bay traders. Accordingly, in the spring of 1827,
the Company was divided up into three parts, to be led separately, by diiTorent
routes, into the Indian Territory, nearer the ocean.
Smith's route was from the Platte River, southwards to Santa Fe, thence to
the bay of San Francisco, and thence along the coast to the Columbia River.
His party were successful, and had arrived in the autumn of the following year
at the Umpqua River, about two hundred miles south of the Columbia, in
safety. Here one of those sudden reverses to which the " moimtain-man " is
liable at any moment, overtook him. His party at this time consisted of thir-
teen men, with their horses, and a collection of furs valued at twenty thousand
dollars. Arrived at tho Umpqua, they encamped for the night on ita southern
bank, unaware that the natives in this vicinity (the Shastas) were more fierce
and treacherous than the indolent tribes of California, for whom, probably,
they had a great contempt. All went well until the following morning, the
Indians hanging about the camp, but apparently friendly. Smith had just
breakfasted, and was occupied in ooking for a fonling-place for the animals,
being on a raft, md having with him a little Englishman and one Indian.
When thoy were in the middle of the river the Indian snatched Smith's gun
and jumped into the water. At the same instarit a yell from the camp, which
was in sight, proclaimed that it was attacked. Quick as thought Smith
snatched tho Englishman's gun, and shot dead the Indian in the river.
To return to the camp was certain death. Already several of his men had
fallen ; overpowered by numbers he could not hope that any would escape, and
nothing was left him but flight. He succee<led in getting to the opposite shore
with his raft before he could be intercepted, and fled with his companion, on
foot and with only one gun, and no provisions, to the mountains that border
the river. With great good fortune they were enabled to pass through the re-
maining two hundred miles of their journey without accident, though not wiUi-
out suffering, and reach Fort Vancouver in a destitute condition, where they
were kindly cared for.
JOSEPH L. MEEK.
85
II to any other
•ing their first
jon, b<Mn!» the
I the breaking
*8of the Snake
Bay trappers,
ered there,
irge number of
ct competitioa
ardly a degree
this one extra
ish.
usiness by the
isli their enter-
c likely to en-
pring of 1827,
ly, by diiTcrcnt
Fe, thence to
tlumbia River,
following year
Columbia, in
intain-man " is
sisted of thir-
enty thousand
)n iti) southern
ire more fierce
lom, probably,
morning, the
nith had just
r the animals,
one Indian.
Smith's gun
B camp, which
bought Smith
river.
' his men had
Id escape, and
opposite shore
:!ompanion, on
s that border
irough the re-
jugh not with-
n, where they
Of the m<'n left in camp, only two escaped. One man named Black de-
fi'ndt'd liimself until he saw an opportunity for flight, when ho escaped to the
cover of the woods, and finally to a friendly tribe farther north, near the coast,
who piloted him to Vancouver. The remaining man was one Turner, of a very
powerful frame, who was doing camp duty as cook on this eventful morning.
When the Indians rushed upun him he defended hiniMilf with a huge firebrand,
or half-burnt jwplar stick, with which he lai<l about him like Sampson, killing
four red-skins betbre he saw a chance of oscaiH!, Singularly, for one in his ex-
tremity, he did escaiK;, and also arrived at Vancouver that winter.
Dr. McLaughlin received the unlucky trader and his three surviving men
with every mark and expression of kindness, and entertained them through the
winter. Not only this, but he dispatched a strong, armed party to the scene
of the disaster to punish vhe Indians and recover the stolen goods ; all of which
was done at his own expen>!e, both as an act of friendship toward his Ameri-
can rivals, and as necessary to tlie discipline which they everywhere maintained
among the Indians. Should this oflcnce go unpunished, the next attac-k might
be upon one of his own parties going annually down into California. Sir
George Simpson, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, chanced to be
spending the winter at Vancouver. He offered to send Smith to London the
v'ollowing summer, in the Company's vessel, where he might disjwse of his furs
to advantage ; but Smith declined this offer, and finally sold his furs to Dr.
McLaughlin, and returned in the spring to the Bix'ky Mountains.
On Sublette's return from St. Louis, in the sunmicr of 1829, with men and
merchandise for the year's trade, he became uneasy on account of Smith's pro-
tracted absence. According to a previous plan, he took a large party into the
Snake River country to hunt. Among the recruits from St. Louis was Joseph
L. Meek, the subject of the narrative following this chapter. Sublette not
meeting with Smilh's party on its way from the Columbia, as he still hoped, at
length detailed a party to look for him on the head-waters of the Snake. Meek
was one of the men sent to look for the missing partner, whom he discovered
at length in Pierre's Hole, a deep valley in the mountains, from which issues
the Snake River in many living streams. Smith returned with the men to
camp, where the tale of his disasters was received after the manner of moun-
tain-men, simply declaring with a momentarily sobered countenance, that their
comrade has not been " in luck ; " with which .brief and equivocal expression
of sympathy the subject is dismissed. To dwell on the dangers incident to
their calling would be to half disarm themselves of their necessary courage ;
and it is only when they are gathered about the fire in their winter camp, that
they indulge in tales of wild adventure and " hair-bi-eadth 'scapes," or make
sorrowful reference to a comrade lost. [
Influenced by the hospitable treatment which Smith had received at the
hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, the partners now determined to with-
draw from competition with them in the Snake country, and to trap upon the
waters of the Colorado, in the neighborhood of their foi;t. But " luck," the
mountain-man's Providence, seemed to have deserted Smith. In crossing the
Colorado River with a considerable collection of skins, he was again attacked,
86
WYCTH 8 i:XrKDITIONS.
li i
III
>)y Indians, and only o(icap«'d hy losing all his proprty. IIo then went to St.
Louis for a supply of miTchundiso, and fitted out a tradin<? party for Santa F6 ;
but on his way to that i)laco was killed in an encounter with tlic savages.
Turner, the man who so valiantly wielded the firvbrand on the Umpqua
River, several years later met with a similar ndventun> on the Rogue River, in
Southern Oregon, and was the means of saving the lives of his party by his
courage, strength, and alertness. lie finally, when trapping hiui become un-
profitable, retired upon a farm in the Wallamet Valley, as did many other
mountain-men who survived the dangers of their perilous trade.
Atler the death of Smith, the Rot-ky Mountain Fur Company continuod its
operations under the command of Bridger, Fitzpatrick, and Milton Sublette,
brother of William. In the spring of 1K30 they received about two hundred
recruits, and tvith little variation kept up their number of three or four hundred
men for a period of eight or ten years longer, or until the beaver were hunted
out of every nook and corner of the Rocky Mountains.
Previous to 1835, there were in and about the Rocky Mountains, beside the
" Auierican" and " Rocky Mountain " rompanies, the St. Louis Company, and
eight or ten " lone traders." Among these latter were William Sublette,
Robert Campbell, J. O. Pattie, Mr. Pilcher , Col. Charles Bent, St. Vrain,
William Bent, Mr. Gant, and Mr. Blackwell. All these companies and
traders more or less frequently penetrated into the countries of New Mexico,
Old Mexico, Sonora, and California ; returning sometimes through the moun-
tain regions of the latter State, by the Humboldt River to the head-waters of
the Colorado. Seldom, in all their journeys, did they intrude on that portion
of the Indian Territory lying within three hundred miles of Fort Vancouver,
or which forms tl' o si"er, of the present State of Oregon.
Up to 1832, the fcr irade in the West had been chiefly conducted by mer-
chants from the fro!>ii(>r cities, especially by those of St. Louis. Tlie old
" North Americac ' v -s the only exception. But in the spring of this year,
Captain Bonneville, an United States officer on furlough, led a company of a
hundred nu!i>, with a train of wagons, horses and mules, with merchandise, into
the trapping groimds of the Rocky Mountains. His wagons were the first that
had ever crossed the summit of those mountains, though William Sublette had,
two or three years previous, brought wagons as far as the valley of the Wind
River, on the east side of the range. Captain Bonneville remained nearly
three years in the hunting and trapping grounds, taking parties of men into
the Colorado, Humboldt, and Sacramento val'cys ; but he realized no profits
from his expedition, being opposed and competed with by both British and
American traders of larger experience. .
But Captain Bonneville's venture was a fortunate one compared with that
of Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth of Massachusetts, who also crossed the continent in
1832, with the view of establishing a trade on the Columbia River. Mr. Wyeth
brought with him a small party of men. c'i inexperienced in frontier or moun-
tain life, and destined for a salmon fishery on the Columbia. He had reached
Independence, Missouri, the last station before plunging into the wilderness, and
found himself somewhat at a loss how to proceed, until, at this juncture, he was
DliCLINE OF THE AMERICAN FUB TUADE.
87
s, beside the
OTertnken by the pnrty of Williiiin Sublctti-, from St. Loiiin to the Rorky Moun-
tainn, witli whom he travelled in eomimny to the renilezvous at Pierre's Hole.
When VVyoth arrived at the Columbia Uiver, aller tarrying until he had
af(juired foine mountain ex|KfricnL(!S, he found that his vensel, which was loaded
with menhandise for the Columbia River trade, had not arrived. He renjained
at Vancouver through the winter, the guest of the Huilnon's Bay Company,
and either having learned or Hiirmised that his vessel was wrecked, returned to
the United States in the following year. Not diM<;ouraged, however, he made
another venture in 1834, despatching the ship Maij IJacre, Captain Lambert,
for the C ilumbia River, with another cargo of Indian goods, traveling himself
overland with a party of two hundred men, and a considerable quantity of mer-
chandise which he expected to sell to the Rocky Mountain Fur Comjjany. In
this expectation he was defeated by William Sublette, who had also brought out
a large assortment of goods tor the Indian trade, and had sold out, supplying
the market, liefbre Mr. Wyeth arrived.
Wyeth then built a {wst, named Fort Hall, on Snake River, at the junction
of the Portneuf, where he stored his goods, and having detached most of his
men in trapping parties, proceeded to the Columbia River to meet the Mat/
Dacre, He reached the Columbia about the same time with his vessel, and
proceeded at once to erect a salmon fishery. To forward this purpose he built
a post, called Fort William, on the lower end of vV^appatoo (now known as
Sauvie's) Island, near where the Lower Wallamet falls into the Columbia. But
for various reasons he Ibund the business on which he had entered unprofitable.
He had much trouble with the Indians, his men were killed or drowned, so that
by the time he had half a cargo of fish, he was ready to almndon the effort to
establish a commerce with the Oregon Indians, and was satisfied that no enter-
prise less stupendous and powerful than that of the Hudson's Bay Company
could be long sustained in that country.
Much complaint was subsequently made by Americans, chiefly Missionaries,
of the conduct of that company in not allowing Mr. Wyeth to purchase beaver
skins of the Indians, hut Mr. Wyeth himself made no such complaint. Person-
ally, he was treated with unvarying kindness, courtesy, aucl hospitality. As a
trader, they would not permit him to undersell them. In truth, they no doubt
wished him away; because competition would soon ruin the business of either,
and they liked not to have the Indians taught to expect more than their furs
were worth, nor to have the Indians' confidence in themselves destroyed or
tampered with.
The Hudson's Bay Company were hardly so unfriendly to him as the Ameri-
can companies ; since to the former he was enabled to sell hip goods and fort on
the Snake River, before he returned to the United States, which he did in 1836.
The sale of Fort Hall to the Hudson's Bay Company was a finishing blow at
the American fur trade in the Rocky Mountains, which after two or three years
of constantly declining profits, was entirely abandoned.
Something of the dangers incident to the life of the hunter and trapper may
be gathered from the following statements, made by various parties who have
been engaged in it. In 1808, a Missouri Company engaged in fur hunting on
HHBHM"
38
CAUSS:S OP THE INDIANS HOSTILITY.
the three forks of the river Missouri, were attacked by Blackfeet, losing twenty-
seven men, and being compelled to abandon the country. In 1823, Mr. Ashley
was attacked on the same river by the Arickaras, and had twenty-six men
killed. About the same time the Missouri company lost seven men, and fifteen
thousand dollars' worth of merchandise on the Yellowstone River. A few years
previous, Major Henry lost, on the Missouri River, six men and fifty horses.
In the sketch given c^ Smith's trading ad -entm-es is shown how uncertain were
life and property at a later period. Of the two hundred men whom Wyeth
led into the Indian country, only about forty were alive at the end of three
years. There was, indeed, a constant state of warfare between the Indians
and the whites, wherever the American Companies hunted, in which great
numbers of both lost their lives. Add to this cause of decimation the perils
from wild beasts, famine, cold, and all manner of accidents, and the trapper's
chance of life was about one in three.
Of the causes which have produced the enmity of the Indians, there are
about as many. It was found to be the caoe almost universally, that on the
first visit of the whites the natives were friendly, after their natural fears had
been allayed. But by degrees their cupidity was excited to possess themselves
of the much coveted dress, arms, and goods of their visitors. As they had
little or nothing to offer in exchange, which the white man considered an equiva-
lent, they took the only method remaining of gratifying their desire of possess-
ion, and stole the coveted articles which they could not purchase. When they
learned that the white mc.i punished theft, they murdered to prevent the pun-
ishment. Often, also, they had wrongs of their own to avenge. White men
did not always regard their property-rights. They were guilty of infamous
conduct toward Indian women. What one party of whites told them was true,
another plainly contrinlicted, leaving the lie between them. They were over-
bearing toward the Indians on their ov.a soil, exciting to irrepressible hostility
the natural jealousy of the inferior towwd the superior race, where both are
free, which characterizes all people. In short, the Indians were not without
their grievances ; and from barbarous ignorance and wrong on one side, and
intelligent wrong-doing on the other, together with the misunderstandings likely
to arise between *wo entirely distinct races, grew constantly a thousand abuses,
which resulted iu a deadly enmity between the two.
For .several reasons this evil existed to a greater Oegree among the American
traders and trajipers than among the Bri'iih. The American trapper was not,
like the Hudson's Bay employees, bred to the business. Oftener than any
other way he was some wild youth who, after an escapade in the societj of his
native place, sought safety fi-om reproach or punishment in the wilderness. Or
he was some disappointed man who, with feelings embittered towards his fellows,
preferred the seclusion of the forest and mountain. Many were of a class dis-
reputable everywhere, who gladly embraced a life not subject to social laws.
A few We're brave, independent, and hardy spirits, who delighted in the hard-
ships and wild ailventures their calling maile nof essary. All these men, thb
best with the worst, were subject to no will but their own ; and all experience
goes to prove that a life of perfect liberty is apt to degenerate into a life of
losing twenty-
3, Mr. Ashley
enty-six men
3n, and fifteen
A lew years
id fifty horses,
incertain were
whom Wyeth
I end of three
1 the Indians
I which great
ion the perils
1 the trapper's
ans, there are
ly, that on the
;ural fears had
ess themselves
As they had
sred an equiva-
iire of possess-
. When they
jvent the pun-
White men
y of infamous
hem was true,
,ey were over-
ssiblc hostility
here both are
i not without
one side, and
landings likely
lusand abuses,
the American
ipper was not,
ener than any
societj of hi»
ilderness. Or
rds his fellows,
of a class dis-
to so-jial laws.
d in ihe hard-
hcse men, thb
all experience
} into a life of
'^M
i
!
! i
i\
iff
■ ■* - -ir
■^
HEAVY LG3S OP LIFE.
39
license. Even their own lives, and those of their companions, when it depended
upon their o\ n prudence, were but lightly considered. Tlie constant presence
of danger made them reckless. It is easy to conceive how, under these cir-
cumstances, the natives and the foreigners grew to hate each other, in the
Indian country ; especially after the Americans came to the determination to
" shoot an Indian at sight," unless he belonged to some ti:' e with whom they
had intermarried, after the manner of the ti-appers.
On the other hand, the employees of the Hudson's Bay Company were many
of them half-breeds or full-blooded Indians of the Iroquois nation, toward»
whom nearly all the tribes were kindly disposed. Even the Frenchmen who
; trappfjd for this compr.ny were well liked by the Indians on account of their
; "v.avity of manner, and the ease with which they adapted themselves to savage
[life. Besides most of them had native wives and half-breed children, and were
[regarded as relatives. They were trained to the life of a trapper, were subject
Ito the will of the Company, and were generally just and equitable in their deal-
ings with the Indians, according to that' company's will, r,nd the dictates of
prudence. Here was a wide difference.
Notwithstanding this, there were many dangers to be encountered. The
Ihostility of some of the tribes could never be overcome ; nor has it ever abp.ted.
'■ Such were the Crows, the Blackfeet, the Cheyennes, the Apaches, the Cranan-
ches. Only a superior force could compel the friendly offices of these tribes
foi' any white man, and then their treachery was as dangerous as their open
hostility.
It happened, thereiore, that although the Hudson's Bay Company lost com-
paratively few men bv the hands of the Indians, they sometimes found them
implacable toes in common with the American trappers ; and frequently one
party was veiy glad of the others' assistance. Altogether, as has before been
stated, the loss of life was immense in proportion to the number employed.
Very few of those who had spent years in the Rocky Mountains ever returned
to the United States. With their JnJian wives pad half-breed children, they
scattered themselves throughout Oregon, until '■/hen, a number of years after
the abandonment of the ftir trade, Co.-'^ss ionated large tractc of land to
act"- 1 settlers, they laid claim, c!>^h to his selected portion, and became active
citir ;n8 of tbeir adopted state.
fpr
A TRAPPER AND PIONEER'S LIFE.
CHAPTER I.
As has been stated in the Introduction, Joseph L. Meek
IS a native of Washington Co., Va. Born in the early
irt of the present century, and brought up on a planta-
fon where the utmost liberty was accorded to the "young
preferring out-door sports with the youthful
13;SSB> '•
!)ondsmen of his father, to study with the bald-headed
hhoolmaster who furnished him the alphabet on a paddle ;
)ossessing an exhaustless fund of waggish humor, united
b a spirit of adventure and remarktibie personal strength,
le unwittingly furnished in himself the very material of
rhich the heroes of the wilderness were made. Virginia,
I" the mother of Presidents," has furnished many such men,
rho, in the early days of the now populous Western States,
[liecame the hardy frontiers-men, or the fearless Indian
ighters who were the bone and sinew of the land.
When young Joe was about eighteen years of age, he
rearied of the monotony of plantation life, and jumping
onto the wagon of a neighbor who was going to Louis-
dlle, Ky., started out in life for himself He "reckoned
[they did not grieve for him at home;" at which conclu-
[sion others besides Joe naturally arrive on hearing of his
'heedless disposition, and utter contempt for the ordinary
and useful employments to which other men apply them-
selves.
IW
i
42
HE ENLISTS IN A FUB COMPANY.
Joe probably believed that should his father grieve for
him, his step-mother would be able to console him ; this
step-mother, though a pious and good woman, not being
one of the lad's favorites, as might easily be conjectured.
It was such thoughts as these that kept up his resolution
to seek the far west. In the autumn of 1828 he arrived
in St. Louis, and the following spring he fell in with Mr.
Wm. Sublette, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, who
was making his annual visit to that frontier town to pur-
chase merchandise for the Indian country, and pick up re-
cruits for the fur-hunting service. To this experienced
leader he offered himself
THE ENLISTMENT.
" How old are you ?" asked Sublette.
"A little past eighteen."
" And you want to go to the Rocky Mountains?"
"Yes."
ON THE MARCH — CAMP LIFE.
43
"You don't know what you are talking about, boy.
'ouT ')e killed before you got half way there."
If I do, I reckon I can die!" said Joe, with a flash of
Lis full dark eyes, and throwing back his shoulders to show
leir breadth.
" Come," exclaimed the trader, eyeing the youthful can-
didate with admiration, and perhaps a touch of pity also ;
that is the game spirit. I think you'll do, after all.
^nly be prudent, and keep your wits about you."
"Where else should they be?" laughed Joe, as he
rched oflP, feeling an inch or two taller than before.
\ Then commenced the business of preparing for the joui>
ij — making acquaintance with the other recruits — enjoy-
\g the novelty of owning an outfit, being initiated into
le mysteries of camp duty by the few old hunters who
rere to accompany the expedition, and learning some-
ling of their swagger and disregard of civilized observ-
mces.
On the 17th of March, 1829, the company, numbenng
ibout sixty men, left St. Louis, and proceeded on horses
md mules, with pack-horses for the goods, up through the
state of Missouri. Camp-life commenced at the start ; and
this being the season of the year when the weather is
lost disagreeable, its romance rapidly melted away with
the snow and sleet which varied the sharp spring wind
md the frequent cold rains. The recruits went through
ill the little mishaps incident to the business and to their
inexperience, such as involuntary somersaults over the
leads of their mules, bloody noses, bruises, dusty faces,
)ad colds, accidents in fording streams, — yet withal no
^ery serious hurts or hindrances. Rough weather and se-
ivere exercise gave them wolfish appetites, which sweet-
|ened the coarse camp-fare and amateur cooking.
Getting up at four o'clock of a March morning to kindle
11
44
A WARNING VOICE.
fires and attend to the animals was not the most delect-
able duty that our labor-despising young recruit could
have chosen ; but if he repented of the venture he had
made nobody was the wiser. Sleeping of stormy nights
in corn-cribs or under sheds, could not be by any stretch
of imagination convt . iod into a highly romantic or heroic
mode of lodging one's self The squalid manner of living
of the few inhabitants of Missouri at this period, gave a
forlorn aspect to the country which is lacking in the wil-
derness itself; — a thought which sometimes occurred to
Joe like a hope for the future. Mountain-fare he began
to think must be better than the boiled corn and pork of
the Missourians. Antelope and buffalo meat were more
suitable viands for a hunter than cocn and opossum.
Thus those very duties which seemed undignified, and
those hardships without danger or glory, which marked
the beginning of his career made him ambitious of a more
free and hazardous life on the plains and in the moun-
tains.
Among the recruits was a young man not far from Joe's
own age, named Robert Newell, from Ohio. One morn-
ing, when the company was encamped near Boonville, the
two young men were out looking for their mules, when
they encountered an elderly woman returning from the
milking yard with a gourd of milk. Newell made some
remark on the style of vessel she carried, when she broke
out in a sharp voice, —
"Young chap, I'll bet you run off from your i.. other!
Who'll mend them holes in the elbow of your coat?
You're a purty looking chap to go to the mountains,
among them Injuns ! They'll kill you. You'd better go
back home!"
Considering that these frontier people knew what In-
dian fighting was, this was no doubt s .^iid and disinter-
li aU
LAST VESTIGE OF CIVILIZATIOX.
45
ested advice, notwithstanding it was given somewhat
sharply. And so the young men felt it to be ; but it wa»
not in the nature of either of them to turn back from a
course because there was danger in it. The thought of
home, and somebody to mend their coats, was, however,
for the time strongly presented. But the company moved
on, with undiminished number's, stared at by the few in-
habitants, and having their own little adventures, until
they came to Independence, the last station before com-
mitting themselves to the wilderness.
At this place, which contained a dwelling-house, cotton-
gin, and grocery, the camp tarried for a few days to adjust
the packs, and prepare for a final start across the plains.
On Sunday the settlers got togethei for a shooting-match,
in which some of the travelers joined, without winning
many laurels. Coon-skins, deer-skins, and bees-wax
changed hands freely among the settlers, whose skill with
the rifle was greater than their hoard of silver dollars.
This was the last vestige of civilization which the com-
pany could hope to behold for years ; and rude as it was^
yet won from them many a parting look as they finally
took their way across the plains toward the Arkansas
River.
Often on this part of the march a dead silence fell upon
the party, which remamed unbroken for miles of the way.
Many no doubt were regretting homes by them abandoned^
or wondering dreamily how many and whom of that com-,
pany would ever see the Missouri country again. Many
indeed went the way the woman of the gourd had prophe-
sied; but not the hero of this story, nor his comrade
Newell.
The route of Captain Sublette led across the country
from near the mouth of the Kansas River to the River Ar-
kansas ; thence to the South Fork of the Platte ; thence
46
CAMP SURPUlriED BY INDIANS.
on to the North Fork of that River, to where Ft. Liiramie
now stands ; thence up the North Fork to the Sweetwater,
and thence across in a still northwesterly direction to the
head of Wind River.
The manner of camp-travel is now so well known
through the writings of Irving, and still more from the
great numbers which have crossed the plains since Astoria
and Bonneville were written, that it would be superfluous
here to enter upon a particular description of a train on
that journey. A strict half-military discipline had to be
maintained, regular duties assigned to each person, pre-
cautions taken against the loss of animals either by stray-
ing or Indian stampeding, etc. Some of the men were
appointed as camp-keepers, who had all these things to
look after, besides standing guard. A few were se-
lected as hunters, and these W'3re free to come and go, as
their calling required. None but the most experienced
were chosen for hunters, on a march; therefore our re-
cruit could not aspire to that dignity yet.
The first adventure the company met with worthy of
mention after leaving Independence, was in crossing the
country between the Arkansas and the Platte, Here the
camp was surprised one morning by a band of Indians a
thousand strong, that came sweeping down upon them in
such warlike style that even Captain Sublette was fain to
believe it his last battle. Upon the open prairie there is
no such thing as flight, nor any cover under which to con-
ceal a party even for a few moment-:. It is always fight
or die, if the assailants are in the humor for war.
Happily on this occasion the band proved to be more
peaceably disposed than their appearance indicated, being
the warriors of several tribes — the Sioux, Arapahoes, Kio-
was, and Cheyennes, who had been holding a council to
consider probably what mischief they could do to some
:jf:i.
A FIRM FRONT — A TAULEY.
47
other tribes. The spectacle they presented as they came
at full speed on horseback, armed, painted, brandishing
their weapons, and yelling in first rate Indian style, was
one which might well strike with a palsy the stoutest
heart and arm. What were a band of sixty men against
a thousand armed warriors in full fighting trim, with
spears, shields, bows, battle-axes, and not a few guns?
But it is the rule of the mountain-men to jight — and
that there is a chance for life until the breath is out of the
body; therefore Captain Sublette had his little force
drawn up in line of battle. On came the savages, whoop-
ing and swinging their weapons above their heads. Sub-
lette turned to his men. "When you hear my shot, then
fire." Still they came on, until within about fifty paces
of the line of waiting men. Sublette turned his head, and
saw his command with their guns all up to their faces
ready to fire, then raised his own gun. Just at this mo-
ment the principal chief sprang ofi" his horse and laid his
weapon on the ground, making signs of peace. Then fol-
lowed a talk, and after the giving of a considerable pres-
ent, Sublette was allowed to depart. This he did with all
dispatch, the company putting as much distance as pof - •
ble between themselves and their visitors before making
their next camp. Considering the warlike character of
these tribes and their superior numbers, it was as narrow
an escape on the part of the company as it was an excep-
tional freak of generosity on the part of the savages to
allow it. But Indians have all a great respect for a man
who shows no fear ; and it was most probably the warlike
movement of Captain Sublette and his party which in-
spired a willingness on the part of the chief to accept a
present, when he had the power to have taken the whole
train. Besides, according to Indian logic, the present
cost him nothing, and it might cost him many warriors to
4
48
THE SUMMER RENDEZVOUS.
I . i
capture the train. Had there been the least wavering on
Sublette's part, or fear in the countenances of his men, the
end of the atfair would have been diiferent. This adven-
ture was a grand initiation of the raw recruits, giving
them both an insight into savage modes of attack, and an
opportunity to test their own nerve'.
The company proceeded without accident, and arrived,
about the first of July, at the rendezvous, which was ap-
pointed for this year on the Popo Agie, one of the strf -is
which form the head-waters of Bighorn River.
Now, indeed, young Joe had an opportunity of seemg
something of the life upon which he had entered. As
customary, when the traveling partner arrived at rendez-
vous with the year's merchandise, there was a meeting of
all the partners, if they were within reach of the appointed
place. On this occasion Smith was absent on his tour
through California and Western Oregon, as has been
related in the prefatory chapter. Jackson, the resident
partner, and commander for the previous year, was not
yet in; and Sublette had just arrived with the goods
from St. Louis.
All the different hunting and trapping parties and In-
dian allies were gathered together, so that the camp con-
tained several hundred men, with their riding and pack-
horses. Nor were Indian women and children wanting to
give variety and an appearance of domesticity to the
scene.
The Summer rendezvous was always chosen in some
valley where there was grass for the animals, and game
for the camp. The plains along the Popo Agie, besides
furnishing these necessary bounties, were bordered by pic-
turesque mountain ranges, whose naked bluffs of red sand-
stone glowed in the morning and evening sun with a mel-
lowness of coloring charming to the eye of the Virginia
ng on
in, the
idven-
^iving
nd an
Tived,
as ap-
\Xf "IS
seeing
l. As
endez-
ing of
ointed
s tour
been
isident
as not
goods
Qd In-
ip con-
pack-
ting to
to the
I some
game
besides
by pic-
i sand-
a mel-
'irginia
n^
ii
AN ENCHANTING PICTURE.
m
o
<
S
recruit. The waving grass of the plain, variegated with
wild flowers; the clear summer heavens flecked with
white clouds that threw soft shadows in passing ; the graz-
ing animals scattered about the meado-w s ; the lodges of
the Booshways* around which clustered the camp in
motley garb and brilliant coloring ; gay laughter, and the
murmur of soft Indian voices, all made up a most spir-
ited and enchant 'ng picture, in which the eye of an artist
could not fail to delight.
But as the goods were opened the scene grow livelier.
All were eager to purchase, most of the trappers to the
full cimount of their year's wages; and some of them,
generally free trappers, went in debt to the company to a
very considerable amount, after spending the value of a
year's labor, privation, and danger, at the rate of several
hundred dollars in a single day.
The difference between a hired and a free trapper was
greatly in favor of the latter. The hired trapper was
regularly indentured, and bound not only to hunt and
trap for his empi' yers, but also to perform any duty re-
quired of him in camp. The Booshway, or the trader, or
the partisan, (leader of the detachment,) l .d him under
his c ^mmand, to make him take charge '* load and un-
load the horses, stand guard, cook, hunt fuel, or, in short,
do any and every duty. In return for this toilsome ser-
vice he rec<^ived an outfit of traps, arms and ammunition,
horses, and whatever his service required. Besides his
outfit, he received no more than three or four hundred
dollars a year as wages.
There was also a class of free trappers, who were fur-
nished With, their outfit by the company they trapped for,
and who were obliged to agree to a certain stipulated
* Leaders or chiefs — coiTupted from the French of JElourgeois, and borrowed
from the Canadians.
'■"■"'LW'I
50
THE FREE TRAPPER 8 INDIAN WIFE.
price for their furs before the hunt commenced. But the
genuine free trapper regarded himself as greatly the su-
perior of either of the foregoing classes. He had his own
horses and accoutrements, arms and ammunition. He
took what route he thought fit, hunted and trapped when
and where he chose ; traded with the Indians ; sold his
furs to whoever offered highest for them ; dressed flaunt-
ingly, and generally had an Indian wife and half-breed
children. They prided themselves on their hardihood
and courage ; even on their recklessness and profligacy.
Each claimed to own the best horse; to have had the
wildest adventures; to have made the' most narrow es-
capes ; to have killed the greatest number of bears and In-
dians ; to be the greatest favorite with the Indian belles,
the greatest consumer of alcohol, and to have the most
money to spend, i. e. the largest credit on the books of
the company. If his hearers did not believe him, he was
ready to run a race with him, to beat him at "old sledge,"
or to fight, if fighting was preferred, — ready to prove
what he affirmed in any manner the company pleased.
If the free trapper had a wife, she moved with the
camp to which he attached himself, being furnished with
a fine horse, caparisoned in the gayest and costliest man-
Her dress was of the finest goods the market af-
per.
forded, and was suitably ornamented with beads, ribbons,
fringes, and feathers. Her rank, too, as a firee trapper's
wife, gave her consequence not only in her own eyes, but
in those of her tribe, and protected her from that slavish
drudgery to which as the wife of an Indian hunter or war-
rior she would have been subject. The only authority
which the free trapper acknowledged was that of his In-
dian spouse, who generally ruled in the lodge, however
her lord blustered outside.
One of the free trapper's special delights was to take in
^L.
WILD CAROUSALS.
51
hand the raw recruits, to gorge their wonder with his
boastful tales, and to amuse himself with shv^cking his pu-
pil's civilized notions of propriety. Joe Meek did not
escape this sort of "breaking in;" and if it should appear
in the course of this narrative that he proved an apt
scholar, it will but illustrate a truth — that high spirits and
fine talents tempt the tempter to win them over to his
ranks. But Joo was not won over all at once. He be-
held the beautifiil spectacle of the encampment as it has
been described, giving life and enchantment to the sum.
mer landscape, changed into a scene of the wildest ca-
rousal, going from bad to worse, until from harmless
noise and bluster it came to fighting and loss of life. At
this first rendezvous he was shocked to behold the revolt-
ing exhibition of four trappers playing a yame of cai'ds
with the dead body of a comrade for a tard-table ! Such
was the indifference to all the natural and ordinary emo-
tions which these veterans of the wilderness cultivated in
themselves, and inculcated in those who came under their
influence. Scenes like this at first had the effect to bring
feelings of home-sickness, while it inspired by contrast a
sort of penitential and religious feeling also. According
to Meek's account of those early days in the mountains,
he said some secret prayers, and shed some secret tears.
But this did not last long. The force of example, and es-
pecially the force of ridicule, is very potent with the
young ; nor are we quite free from their influence later in
life.
If the gambling, swearing, drinking, and fighting at
first astonished and alarmed the unsophisticated Joe, he
found at the same time something to admire, and that he
felt to be congenial with his own disposition, in the fearless-
ness, the contempt of sordid gain, the hearty merriment
and frolicsome abandon of the better portion of the men
1 I
52
ROUTINE OF rVMP LIFE.
II
M
about him. A spirit of emulation arose in him to become
as brave as the bravest, as hardy as the hardiest, and as
gay as the gayest, even while his feelings still revolted at
many things which his heroic models were openly guilty of
If at any time in the future course of this narrative, Joe is
discovered to have taken leave of his eariy scruples, the
reader will considerately remember the associations by
which he was surrounded for years, until the memory of
the pious teachings of his childhood was nearly, if not
quite, obliterated. To " nothing extenuate, nor set down
aught in malice," should be the frame of mind in which
both the writer and reader of Joe's adventures should
strive to maintain himself
Before our hero is ushered upon the active scenes of a
trapper's life, it may be well to present to the reader a
sort of guide to camp life^ in order that he may be able
to understand some of its technicalities, as they may be
casually mentioned hereafter.
When the large camp is on the march, it has a leader,
generally one of the Booshways, who rides in advance, or
at the head of the c* slumn. Near him is a led mule, chosen
for its qualities of speed and trustworthiness, on which
are packed two small trunks that balance each other like
panniers, and which contain the company's books, papers,
and articles of agreement with the men. Then follow
the pack animals, each one beari ig three packs — one on
each side, and one on top — so nicely adjusted as not to slip
in traveling. These are in charge wf certain men called
camp-keepers, who have each three of these to look aft(;r.
The trappers and hunters have two horses, or mules, one
to ride, and one to pack their traps. If there are women
and children in the train, all are mounted. Where the
country is safe, the caravan moves in single file, often
stretching out for half or three-quarters of a mile. At
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CAMPING AT NIGHT.
53
the end of the column rides the second man, or "little
Booshway," as the men call him ; usually a hired officer,
whose business it is to look after the order and condition
of the whole camp.
On arriving at a suitable spot to make the night camp,
the leader stops, dismount?i in the particular space which
is to be devoted tc himself in its midst. The others, as
they come up, form a circle ; the " second man" bringing
up the rear, to be sure all are there. He then proceeds
to appoint every man a place in the circle, and to exam-
ine the horses' backs to see if any are sore. The horses
are then turned out, under a guard, to graze ; but before
darkness comes on are placed inside the ring, and pick-
eted by a stake driven in the earth, or with two feet
so tied together as to prevent easy or free locomotion.
The men are dividec. j messes : so many trappers and
80 many camp-keepers to a mess. The business of eating
is not a very elaborate one, where the sole article of diet
is meat, either dried or roasted. By a certain hour all is
quiet in camp, and only the guard is awake. At times
during the night, the leader, or the officer of the guard,
gives the guard a challenge — " all's well ! " which is an-
swered by " all's well ! "
In the morning at daylight, or sometimes not till sun-
rise, according to the safe or dangerous locality, the sec-
ond man comes forth from his lodge and cries in French,
" leve, leve^ leve^ leve^ levef^^ fifteen or twenty times, which
is the command to rise. In about five minutes more he
cries out again, in French, " leche lego^ leche lego ! " or
turn out, turn out ; at which command all come out from
the lodges, and the horses are turned loose to feed ; but
not before a horseman has galloped all round the camp at
some distance, and discovered every thing tt; be safe in
the neighborhood. Again, when the horses have been-
64
DIVIDING THE GAME.
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sufficiently fed, under the eye of a guard, they are driven
up, the packs replaced, the train mounted, and once more
it moves off, in the order before mentioned.
In a settled camp, as in winter, there are other regula-
tions, The leader and the second man occupy the same
relative positions ; but other minor regulations are ob-
served. The duty of a trapper, for instance, in the trap-
ping season, is only to trap, and take care of his own
horses. When he comes in at night, he takes his beaver
to the clerk, and the number is counted off, and placed to
his credit. Not he, but the camp-keepers, take off the
skins and dry them. In the winter camp there are six
persons to a lodge : four trappers and two camp-keepers ;
therefore the trappers are well waited upon, their only
duty being to hunt, in turns, for the camp. When a piece
of game is brought in, — a deer, an antelope, or buffalo
meat, — it is thrown down on the heap which accumulates
in front of the Booshway's lodge ; and the second man
stands by and cuts it up, or has it cut up for him. The
first man who chances to come along, is ordered to stand
still and turn his back to the pile of game, while the
" little Booshway " lays hold of a piece that has been cut
off, and asks in a loud voice — " who will have this ? " —
and the man answering for him, says, " the Booshway,"
or perhaps "number six," or "number twenty" — mean-
ing certain messes ; and the number is called to come and
take their meat. In this blind way the meat i^ portioned
off; strongly reminding one of the game of "button,
button, who has the button ? " In this chance game of
the meat, the Booshway fares no better than his men ;
unless, in rare instances, the little Booshway should indi-
cate to the man who calls off, that a certain choice piece
is designed for the mess of the leader or the second man.
A gun is never allowed to be fired in camp under any
8M0KED MOCCASINS.
5ft
provocation, short of an Indian raid ; but the guns are
frequently inspected, to see if they are in order ; and
woe to the careless camp-keeper who neglects this or any
other duty. When the second man comes around, and
finds a piece of work imperfectly done, whether it be
cleaning the firearms, making a hair rope, or a skin lodge,
or washing a horse's back, he does not threaten the
offender with personal chastisement, but calls up another
man and asks him, " Can you do this properly ? ''
"Yes, sir."
" I will give you ten dollars to do it ; " and the ten
dollars is set down to the account of the inefficient camp-
keeper. But he does not risk forfeiting another ten dol-
lars in the same manner.
In the spring, when the camp breaks up, the skins
which have been used all winter for lodges are cut up to
make moccasins : because from their having been thor-
oughly smoked by the lodge fires they do not shrink in
wetting, like raw skins. This is an important quality in a
moccasin, as a trapper is almost constantly in the water,
and should not his moccasins be smoked they will close
upon his feet, in drying, like a vice. Sometimes after
trapping all day, the tired and soaked trapper lies down
in his blankets at night, still wet. But by-and-Ly he is
wakened by the pinching of his moccasins, and is obliged
to rise and seek the water again to relieve himself of the
pain. For the same reason, when spring comes, the trap-
per is forced to cut off the lower half of his buckskin,
breeches, and piece them down with blanket leggins,
which he wears all through the trapping season.
Such were a few of the peculiarities, and the hardships
also, of a life in the Rocky Mountains. If the camp dis-
cipline, and the dangers and hardships to which a raw re-
cruit was exposed, failed to harden him to the service in
iffirtlP
56
"trifling fellow."
one year, he was rejected as a " trifling fellow," and sent
back to the settlement the next year. It was not prob-
able, therefore, that the mountain-man often was detected
in complaining at his lot. If he was miserable, he was
laughed at ; and he soon learned to laugh at his own mis-
eries, as well as to laugh back at his comrades.
CHAPTER II.
The business of the rendezvous occupied about a
month. In this period the men, Indian allies, and other
Indian parties who usually visited the camp at this time,
were all supplied with goods. The remaining merchandise
was adjusted for the convenience of the different traders
who should be sent out through all the country traversed
by the company, Sublette then decided upon their routes,
dividing up his forces into camps, which took each its ap-
pointed course, detaching as it proceeded small parties of
trappers to all the hunting grounds in the neighborhood.
These smaller camps were ordered to meet at certain times
and places, to report progress, collect and cache their furs,
and "count noses." If certain parties failed to arrive,
others were sent out in search for them.
This year, in the absence of Smith and Jackson, a con-
siderable party was dispatched, under Milton Sublette,
brother of the Captain, and two other free trappers and
traders. Frapp and Jervais, to traverse the country down
along the Bighorn River. Captain Sublette took a large
party, among whom was Joe Meek, across the mountains
to trap on the Snake River, in opposition to the Hudson's
Bay Company. The Rocky Mountain Fur Company had
hitherto avoided this country, except when Smith had
once crossed to the head- waters of the Snake with a small
party of five trappers. But Smith and Sublette had
determined to oppose themselves to the British traders
1^1 ii<, If II mm
58
THE LOST FOUND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
li
who occupied so large an extent of territory presumed to
be American ; and it had been agreed between them to
meet this year on Snake River on Sublette's return from
St. Louis, and Smith's from his California tour. What
befel Smith's party before reaching the Columbia, has
already been related ; also his reception by the Hudson's
Bay Company, and his departure from Vancouver.
Sublette led his company up the valley of the Wind
River, across the mountains, and on to the very head-waters
of the Lewis or Snake River, Here he fell in with Jack-
son, in the valley of Lewis Lake, called Jackson's Hole,
and remained on the borders of this lake for some time,
waiting for Smith, whose non-appearance began to create
a good deal of uneasiness. At length runners were dis-
patched in all directions looking for the lost Booshway.
The detachment to which Meek was assigned had the
pleasure and honor of discovering the hiding place of the
missing partner, which was in Pierre's Hole, a mountain
valley about thirty miles long and of half that width,
which subsequently was much frequented by the camps of
the various fur companies. He was found trapping and
exploring, in company with four men only, one of whom
was Black, who with him escaped from the Umpqua In-
dians, as before related.
Notwithstanding the excitement and elation attendant
upon the success of his party, Meek found time to admire
the magnificent scenery of the valley, which is bounded
on two sides by broken and picturesque ranges, and over-
looked by that magnificent group of mountains, called
the Three Tetons, towering to a height of fourteen thou-
sand feet. This emerald cup set in its rim of amethystine
mountains, was so pleasant a sight to the mountain-men
that camp was moved to it without delay, where it re-
mained until some time in September, recruiting its ani-
mals and prcpjirinjj: for the fall hunt.
REJOICINOS IN CAMP.
59
Here again the trappers indulged in their noisy sports
and rejoicing, ostensibly on account of the return of the
long-absent Booshway. There was little said of the men
who had perished in that unfortunate expedition. "Poor
fellow ! out of luck ; " was the usual burial rite which
the memory of a dead comrade received. So much and
no more. They could indulge in noisy rejoicings over a
lost comrade restored ; but the dead one was not men-
tioned. Nor was this apparently heartless and heedless
manner so irrational or unfeeling as it seemed. Every-
body understood one thing in the mountains — that he must
keep his life by his own courage and valor, or at the least
by his own prudence. Unseen dangers always lay in
wait for him. Tho arrow or tomahawk of the Indian, the
blow of the grizzly bea'', the mis-step on the dizzy or slip-
pery height, the rush of boiling and foaming floods, freez-
ing cold, famine — these w ere the most common forms of
peril, yet did not embrace even then all the forms in which
Death sought his victims in the wilderness. The avoid-
ance of painful reminders, such as the loss of a party of
men, was a natural instinct, involving also a principle of
self defence — since to have weak hearts would be the
surest road to defeat in the next dangerous encounter.
To keep their hearts "big," they must be gay, they must
not remember the miserable fate of many of their one-time
comrades. Think of that, stern moralist and martinet in
propriety ! Your fur collar hangs in the gas-lighted hall.
In your luxurious dressing gown and slippers, by the
warmth of a glowing grate, you muse upon the depravity
of your fellow men. But imagine yourself, if you can, in
the heart of an interminable wUderness. Let the snow
be three or four feet deep, game scarce, Indians on your
track: escaped from these dangers, once more beside a
camp fire, with a roast of buffalo meat on a stick before it,
THE TRAPPERS PHILOSOPHY.
and several of your companions similarly escaped, and
destined for t le same chances to-morrow, around you. Do
you fancy you should give much time to lamenting the less
lucky fellows who were left behind frozen, starved, or
scalped? Not you. You would be fortifying yourself
against to-morrovr, when the same Larrors might lay in
wait for you. Jedediah Smith was a rjious man ; one of
the few that e"»er resided in the Rocky Mountains, and led
a band of reckless trapper? • but he did not t^irn back
to hi.? camp when he saw it attacked on the Urapqua,
nor stop to lament his murdered men. The law of self-
preservation is strong in the wilderness. " Keep up your
heart to-day, for to-morrow you may die," is the motto
of the trapper.
In the conference which took place between Smith and
Sublette, the former insisted that on account of the kind
services of the Hudson's Bay Company tov/ard himself
and the three other survivors of his party, ' hey should
withdraw their trappers ^nd traders from the western jide
of the mountains for the present, so as not to have them
come in conriict with those of that company. To this
proposition Sublette reluctantly consented, and orders
were issued for moving on ^ more to the east, before go-
ing into winter camp, whicli was appointed for the Wind
Pviver Valley.
In the meantime Joe Meek was sent out with a party to
taKe his first hunt f >r beaver as a hired trapper. The
detachment to which he belonged traveled down Pierre's
fork, the streara which watered the valley of Pierre's Hole,
to its junction with Lewis' ai}d Henry's forks where they
unite to form the great Snake Eiver. While trapping in
this locality the party became aware of the vicinity of a
roving band of Blackfeet, and i," consequence, redoubled
their usual precautions while on the march.
"THE devil's own."
61
The Blackfeet were the tribe most dreaded in the Rocky
Mountains, and went by the name of "Bugs Boys," which
rendered into good English, meant " the devil's own."
They are now so well known that to mention their charac-
teristics seems like repeating a. " twice-told tale ; " but as
tht;^ *. ill appear so often in this narrative, Irving's account
of the;m as he had it from Bonneville when he was fresh
from the mountains, will, after all, not be out of place.
"These savages," he says, "are the most dangerous ban-
ditti of the mountains, and the inveterate foe of the trap-
pGi. They are Ishmaelitcs of the first order, alw^ays with
weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of
the tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for
booty ; io gain horses, and acquire the means of setting
up a lodge, supporting a family, and entitling themselves
la a seat in the public counci's. The veteran warriors
f.ght merely for the love of the thing, and the conse-
quence which success gives them among their people.
They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted
on short, stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies, to be
met with in St. Louis. When on a war party, however,
they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the
country with greater secrecy ; to keep in thickets and ra-
vines, and use more oxlroit subterfuges and stiatagems.
Their mode of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise,
an d sudden assaults in the night time. If they succeed
in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury ;
if the en }my is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear,
they become wary and deliberate in their movements.
Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with
bows ajid arrows ; the greater part have American fusees,
made after the fashion of those of the Hudson's Pay Com-
pany. These they procure at the trading post of the
American Fur Company, on Maria's River, where they
62
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BLA.CKFEET.
traffic their peltries for arms, ammunition, clothing, and
trinkets. They are extremely fond of spirituous liquors
and tobacco, for which nuisances they are ready to exchange,
not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives
and daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have
cherished a lurking hostility to the whites, ever since one
of their tribe was killed by Mr. Lewis, the associate of
General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across the
E/Ocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged
constantly to keep at their post a garrison of sixty or sev-
enty men."
"Under the general name of Blackfeet are compre-
hended several tribes, such as the Surcies, the Peagans,
+he Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of the Prairies,
wL^ oam about the Southern branches of the Yellow-
stone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes
further north. The bands infesting the Wind River
Mountains, and the country adjacent, at the time of which
we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies^ which
are not to be confounded with the Gros Ventres of the
Missouri^ who keep about the lower part of that river, and
are friendly to the white men."
" This hostile band keeps about the head-waters of the
Missouri, and numbers about nine hundred fighting men. '
Once in the course of two or three years they abandon
their usual abodes and make a visit to the Arapahoes of
the Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow
country, and the Black Hills, or through the lands of the
Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As
they enjoy their favorite state of hostility with all these
tribes, their expeditious are prone to be conducted in the
most lawless and predatory style ; nor do they hesitate to
extend their maraudings to any party of white men they
meet with, following their trail, hovering about their
CHAKACTJiUlSTICS OF THE BLACKFEET.
63
camps, waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free
traders, and murdering the solitary trapper. The conse-
quences are frequent and desperate fights between them
and the mountaineers, in the wild defiles and fastnesses of
the Rocky Mountains." Such were the Blackfeet at the
period of which we are writing ; nor has their character
changed at this day, as many of the Montana nuners know
to their cost.
CHAPTER III.
1830. Sublette's camp commenced moving back to the
east side of the Rocky Mountains in October. Its course
was up Henry's fork of the Snake River, through the North
Pass to Missouri Lake, in which rises the Madison fork of
the Missouri River. The beaver were very plenty on
Henry's fork, and our young trapper had great success in
making up his packs ; having learned the art of setting
his traps very readily. The manner in which the trapper
takes his game is as follows: —
He has an ordinary steel trap weighing five pounds, at-
tached to a chain five feet long, with a swivel and ring at
the end, which plays round what is called the floaty a dry
stick of wood, about six feet long. The trapper wades
out into the stream, which is shallow, and cuts with his
knife a bed for the trap, five or six inches under water.
He then taliss the float out the whole length of the chain
in the direction of the centre of the stream, and drives it
into the mud, so fast that the beaver cannot draw it out;
at the same time tying the other end by a thong to the
btink. A small stick or twig, dipped in musk or castor,
servv'is for bait, and is placed so as to hang directly above
the trap, which is now set. The trapper then throws wa-
ter plentifully over the adjacent bank to conceal any foot
prints or scent by which the beaver would be alarmed,
and going to some distance wades out of the stream.
In setting a trap, several things are to be observed with
care : — first, that the trap is firmly fixed, and the proper
WONDERFUL INSTINCT OF THE BEAVER.
II
distance from the bank — for if the beaver can get on
shore with the trap, he will cut off his foot to escape : sec-
ondly, that the float is of dry wood, for should it not be,
the httle animal will cut it off at a stroke, and swimming
with the trap to the middle of the dam, be drowned by
its weight. In the latter case, when the hunter visits his
traps in the morning, he is under the necessity of plung-
ing into the water and swimming out to dive for the mis-
sing trap, and his game. Should the morning be frosty
and chill, as it very frequently is in the mountains, diving
for traps is not the pleasantest exercise. In placing the
bait, care must be taken to fix it just where the beaver in
reaching it will spring the trap. If the bait-stick be
placed high, the hind foot of the beaver will be caught :
if low, his fore foot.
The, manner in which the beavers make their dam,
and construct their lodge, has long been reckoned among
the wonders of the animal creation; and while some
observers have claimed for the little creature more sa-
gacity than it really possesses, its instinct is still suffi-
ciently wonderful. It is certainly true that it knows how
to keep the water of a stream to a certain level, by means
of an obstruction; and that it cuts down trees for the pur-
pose of backing up the water by a dam. It is not true,
however, that it can always fell a tree in the direction re-
quired for this purpose. The timber about a beaver dam
is felled in all directions ; but as trees that grow near the
water, generally lean towards it, the tree, when cut, takes
the proper direction by gravitation alone. The beaver
then proceeds to cut up the fallen timber into lengths of
about three feet, and to convey them to the spot where
the dam is to be situated, securing them in their places
by means of mud and stones. The work is commenced
when the water is low, and carried on as it rises, until it
I'fff**7«
HEAVER DAMS FORMATION OF MEADOWS.
has attained the desired height. And not only is it made
of the requisite height and strength, but its shape is suited
exactly to the nature of the stream in which it is built.
If the water is sluggish the dam is straight ; if rapid and
turbulent, the barrier is constructed of a convex form, the
better to resist the action of the water.
BEAVER-UAM.
When the beavers have once commenced a dam, its ex
tent and thickness are continually augmented, not only by
their labors, but by accidental accumulations ; thus accom-
modating itself to the size of the growing community.
At length, after a lapse of many years, the water being
spread over a considerable tract, and filled up by yearly
accumulations of drift-wood and earth, seeds take root
in the new made ground, and the old beaver-dams be-
come green meadows, or thickets of cotton-wood and
willow.
The food on which the beaver subsists, is the bark of
the young trees in its neighborhood ; and when laying up
a winter store, the whole community join in the labor of
selecting, cutting up, and carrying the strips to their store-
BEAVER LODGES.
G7
houses under water. They do not, as some writers have
affirmed, when cutting wood for a dam strip off the bark
and store it in their lodges for winter consumption ; but
only carry under water the stick with the bark on.
" The beaver has two incisors and eight molars in each jaw ; and empty hol-
lows where the canine teeth might be. ITie upper pair of cutting teeth extend
far into the jaw, with a curve of rather more than a semicircle ; and the lower
pair of incisors form rather less than a semicircle. Sometimes, one of these
teeth gets broken and then the opposite tooth <!ontinues growing until it forms a
jiearly complete circle. The chewing muscle of the beaver is strengthened by
tendons in such a way as to give it great power. But more is needed to enable
the beaver to eat wood. The insalivation of the dry food is provided for by tlie
extraordinary size of the salivary glands.
" Now, every part of these instruments is of vital importance to the beavers.
The loss of an incisor involves the fbrmation of an obstructive circular tooth ;
deficiency of saliva renders the food indigestible ; and when old age comes and
the enamel is worn down faster than it is renewed, the beaver is not longer able
to cut branches for its support. Old, feeble and poor, unable to borrow, and
ashamed to beg, he steals cuttings, and subjects himself to the penalty assigned
to theft. Aged beavers are often found dead with gashes in tlieir bodies, show-
ing that they have been killed by their mates In the fall of 1864, a very aged
beaver was caught in one of the dams of the Esconawba River, and this was the
reflection of a great authority on the occasion, one Ah-she-goes, an Ojibwa trap-
per : • Had he escaped the trap he would have been killed before the winter was
over, by other beavers, for stealing cuttings.'
When the beavers are about two or three years old, their teeth are in their
best condition for cutting. On the Upper Missouri, they cut the cotton tree and
the willow bush ; around Hudson's Bay and Lake Superior, in addition to the
willow they cut the poplar and maple, hemlock, spruce and pine. The cutting
is round and round, and deepest upon the side on which they wish the tree to
fall. Indians and trappers have seen beavers cutting trees. The felling of a
tree is a family affair. No more than a single pair with two or three young
ones are engaged at a time. Tlie adults take the cutting in turns, one gnawing
and the other watching; and occasionally a youngster trying his incisors.
Tlie beaver whilst gnawing sits on his plantigrade hind legs, which keep him
conveniently upright. When the tree begins to crackle the beavers work cau-
tiously, and when it crashes down they plunge ir.to the pond, fearful lest the
noise should attract an enemy to the spot Afl«r the tree-fall, comes the lopping
of the branches. A sin<ile tree may be winter provision for a family. Branches
five or six inches thick have to be cut into proper lengths for transport, and are
then taken home."
The lodge of a beaver is generally about six feet in di-
9Si
BACHELOR a HALL — TRAPPING IN WINTER.
■4 n
I
ameter, on the inside, and about half as high. They are
rounded or dome-shaped on the outside, with very thick
walls, and communicate with the land by subterranean
passages, below the depth at which the water freezes in
winter. Each lodge is made to accommodate several in-
mates, who have their beds ranged round the walls, much
as the Indian does in his tent. They are very cleanly,
too, and after eating, carry out the sticks that have been
stripped, and either use them in repairing their dam, or
throw them into the stream below.
During the summer months the beavers abandon their
lodges, and disport themselves about the streams, some-
times going on long journeys ; or if any remain at home,
they are the mothers of young families. About the last
of August the community returns to its home, and begins
preparations for the domestic cares of the long winter
months.
An exception to this rule is that of certain individuals,
who have no families, make no dam, and never live in
lodges, but burrow in subterranean tunnels. They are al-
ways found to be males, whom the French trappers call
"les parasseux," or idlers; and the American trappers,
"bachelors." Several of them are sometimes found in
one abode, which the trappers facetiously denominate
"bachelor's hall." Being taken with less difficulty than
the more domestic beaver, the trapper is always glad to
come upon their habitations.
The trapping season is usually in the spring and au-
tumn. But should the hunters find it necessary to con-
tinue their work in winter, they capture the beaver by
sounding on the ice until an aperture is discovered, when
the ice is cut away and I he opening closed up. Returning
to the bank, they search for the subterranean passage, trac-
ing its connection with the lodge ; and by patient watching
•'UP TO TRAP ' imST BATTLE WITH BLACKFEET.
69
succeed in catching the beaver on some of its journeys
between the water and the land. This, however, is not
often resorted to when the hunt in the fall has been suc-
cessful ; or when not urged by famine to take the beaver
for food.
"Occasionally it happens," says Captain Bonneville,
" that several members of a beaver family are trapped in
succession. The survivors then become extr6mely shy,
and can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the
trappers' phrase for "taking the bait." In such case, the
trapper gives up the use of the bait, and conceals his traps
in the usual paths and crossing places of the household.
The beaver being now completely "up to trap," ap-
proaches them cautiously, and springs them, ingeniously,
with a stick. At other times, he turns the traps bottom
upwards, by the same means, and occasionally even drags
them to the barrier, and conceals them in the mud. The
trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shoul-
dering his traps, marches oflP, admitting that he is not yet
"up to beaver."
Before the camp moved from the forks of the Snake
River, the haunting Blackfeet made their appearance
openly. It was here that Meek had his first battle with
that nation, with whom he subsequently had many a sav-
age contest. They attacked the camp early in the morn-
ing, just as the call to turn out had sounded. But they
had miscalcdlated their opportunity : the design having evi-
dently been to stampede the horses and mules, at the hour
and moment of their being turned loose to graze. They
had been too hasty by a few minutes, so that when they
charged on the camp pell-mell, firing a hundred guns at
once, to frighten both horses and men, it happened that
only a few of the animals had been turned out, and they
had not yet got far off. The noise of the charge only
turned them back to camp.
w
10
ON GUARD — THE TRAl'PER 8 RUSE.
In an instant's time, Fitzpatrick was mounted, and com-
manding the men to follow, he galloped at headlong
speed round and round the camp, to drive back such of the
horses as were straying, or had been frightened from their
pickets. In this race, two horses were shot under him;
but he escaped, and the camp-horses were saved. The
battle now was to punish the thieves. They took their
position, as usual with Indian ^^^hters, in a narrow ravine;
from whence the camp was io.ced to dislodge them, at a
great disadvantage. This they did do, at last, after six
hours of hard fighting, in which a few men were wounded,
but none killed. The thieves skulked off, through the
canyon, when they found themselves defeated, and were
seen no more until the camp came to the woods which
cover the western slope of the Rocky Mountains.
But as the camp moved eastward, or rather in a north-
easterly direction, through the pine forests between Pier-
re's Hole and the head-waters of the Missouri, it was con-
tinually harrassed by Blackfeet, and required a strong
guard ati night, when these marauders delighted to make
an attack. The weather by this time was very cold in
the mountains, and chilled the marrow of our young Vir-
ginian. The travel was hard, too, and the recruits pretty
well worn out.
One cold night. Meek was put on guard on the further
side of the camp, with a veteran named Reese. But
neither the veteran nor the youngster could resist the ap-
proaches of " tired Nature's sweet restorer," and went to
sleep at their post of duty. When, during the night,
Sublette came out of his tent and. gave the challenge —
" All's well ! " there was no reply. To quote Meek's own
language, " Sublette came round the horse-pen swearing
and snorting. He was powerful mad. Before he got to
where Reese was, he made so much noise that he waked
CLIMBING TWO TREES;
71
him ; and Reese, in a loud whisper, called to him, ' Down,
Billy I Indians ! ' Sublette got down on his belly mighty
quick. ' Whar ? whar ? ' he asked.
" ' They were right there when you hollered so,' said
Reese.
" ' Where is Meek ?' whispered Sublette.
" ' He is trying to shoot one,' answered Reese, still in a
whisper.
" Reese then crawled over to whar I war, and told me
what had been said, and informed me what to do. In a
few minutes I crept cautiously over to Reese's post when
Sublette asked me how many Indians had been thar, and
I told him I couldn't make out their number. In the
morning a pair of Indian moccasins war found whar Reese
saio the Indiana^ which I had taken care to leave there ;
and thus confirmed, our story got us the credit of vigi-
lance, instead of our receiving our just dues for neglect
of duty."
It was sometime during the fall hunt in the Pine Woods,
on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, that Meek had
one of his earliest adventures with a bear. Two com-
rades, Craig and Nelson, and himself, while out trapping,
left their horses, and traveled up a creek on foot, in search
of beaver. They had not proceeded any great distance,
before they came suddenly face to face with a red bear ;
so suddenly, indeed, that the men made a spring for the
nearest trees. Craig and Meek ascended a large pine,
which chanced to be nearest, and having many limbs, was
easy to climb. Nelson happened to take to one of two
small trees that grew close together ; and the bear, fixing
upon him for a victim, undertook to climb after him.
With his back against one of these small trees, and his
feet against the other, his bearship succeeded in reaching
a point not far below Nelson's perch, when the trees-
m'
72
A DISAPPOINTED BEAR.
opened with liis weight, and down he went, with a shock
that fairly shook the ground. But this bad luck only
seemed to infuriate the beast, and up he went again, with
the same result, each time almost reaching his enemy.
With tlio second tumble he was not the least discouraged ;
but started up the third time, only to be dashed once
more to the ground when he had attained a certain height.
At the third fall, liowever, he became thoroughly dis-
gusted with his want of success, and turned and ran at
full speed into the woods.
" Then," says Meek, " Craig began to sing, and I began
to laugh ; but Nelson took to swearing. ' 0 yes, you can
laugh and sing now,' says Nelson; 'but you war quiet
•enough when the bear was around.' ' Why, Nelson,' I
answered, 'you wouldn't have us noisy before that dis-
tinguished guest of yours?' But Nelson damned the
■wild beast ; and Craig and I laughed, and said he didn't
seem wild a bit. That's the way we hector each other in
the mountains. If a man gets into trouble he is only
laughed at : 'let him keep out ; let him have better luck,'
is what we say."
The country traversed by Sublette in the fall of 1829,
was unknown at that period, even to the fur companies,
they having kept either farther to the south or to the
north. Few, if any, white men had passed through it
since Lewis and Clarke discovered the headwaters of the
Missouri and the Snake Rivers, which flow from the oppo-
site sides of the same mountain peaks. Even the toils
and hardships of passing over mountains at this season of
the year, did not deprive the trapper of the enjoyment
of the magnificent scenery the region afforded. Splendid
Tiews, however, could not long beguile men who had
little to eat, and who had yet a long journey to accom-
ALUNE IN THE MOUNTAINS,
73
plish in cold, and surrounded by dangers, before reaching
the wintering ground.
In November the camp h;fl Missouri Lake on the east
side of the nmountains, and crossed over, still northeasterly,
on to the Gallatin fork of the Missouri River, passing over
a very rough and broken country. They were, in fact,
still in the midst of mountains, being spurs of the great
Rocky range, and equally high and rugged. A partic-
ularly high mountain lay between them and the main
Yellowstone River. This they had just crossed, with
great fatigue and difficulty, and were resting the camp
and horses for a few days on the river's bank, when the
Blackfeet once more attacked them in considerable num-
bers. Two men were killed in this fight, and the camp
thrown into confusion by the suddenness of the alarm.
Capt. Sublette, however, got off, with most of his men,
still pursued by the Indians.
Not so our Joe, who this time was not in luck, but was
cut off from camp, alone, and had to flee to the high
mountains overlooking the Yellowstone. Here was a sit-
uation for a nineteen-year-old raw recruit ! Knowing that
the Blackfeet were on the trail of the camp, it was death
to proceed in that direction. Some other route must be
taken to come up with them ; the country was entirely
unknown to him ; the cold severe ; his mule, blanket, and
gun, his only earthly possessions. On the latter • he de-
pended for food, but game was scarce ; and besides, he
thought the sound of his gun would frighten himself, so
alone in the wilderness, swarming with stealthy foes.
Hiding his mule in a thicket, he ascended to the moun-
tain top to take a view of the country, and decide upon
his course. And what a scene was that for the miser-
able boy, whose chance of meeting with his comrades
again was small indeed ! At his feet rolled the Yellow-
„,„... i."-' .■■.MI?l"^^fl'7*^W'W|
74
2. MISERABLE NIGHT.
ft
stone River, coursing away through the great plain to the
eastward. To the north his eye follows the windings of
the Missouri, as upon a map, but playing at hide-and-sfiek
in amongst the mountains. Looking back, he saw the
Iliver Snake stretching its serpentine length through lava
plains, far away, to its junctiou with the Columbia. To
the north, and to the south, one white mountain rose
above another as far as the eye could reach. What a
mighty and magnificent world it seemed, to be alone in !
Poor Joe succumbed to the influence of the thought, and
wept.
Having indulged in this sole remaining luxury of life,
Joe picked up his resolution, and decided upon his course.
To tho southeast lay the Crow country, a land of plenty,
— as the mountain-man regards plenty, — and there he
could at least live : provided the Crows permitted him to
do so. Besides, he had some hopes of falling in wiih one
of the campn, by taking that course.
Descending the mountain to the hiding-place of his
mule, by which time it was dark night, hungry and freez-
ing, Joe still could not light a fire, for fear of revealing his
whereobouts to the Indians ; nor could he remain to per-
ish with cold. Travel he must, and travel he did, going
he scarcely knew whither. Looking back upon the terrors
and uiscomforts of that night, the veteran mountaineer
yet regards it as about the most miserable one of his
life. When day at length broke, he had made, as well as
he could estimate tne distance, about thirty miles. Trav-
eling on toward the southeast, he had crossed the Yellow-
stone River, and still among the mountains, was obliged
to abandon his mule and accoutrements, retaining only
one blanket and his gun. Neither the mule noi himself
had broken fast in the last two days. Keeping a south-
erly course for twenty milos more, or .r a rough and
AWFUL SOLITUDE, A SINGULAR DISCOVERY.
75
olevatod country, he came, on the evening of the third
day, upon a band of mountain shee^^ With what eager-
ness did he hasten to kill, cook, and eat ! Three days of
fasting was, for a novice, quite sufi&cient to j/ovide him
with an appetite.
Having eaten voraciously, and being quite overcome
with fatigue, Joe fell asleep in his blanket, and slumbered
quite deeply until morning. With the morning came
biting blasts from the north, that made motion necessary
if not pleasant. Refreshed by sleep and food, our trav-
eler hastened on upon his solitary way, taking with him
what sheep-meat he could carry, traversing the same
rouf,h and mountainous country as before. No incidents
no: alarms varied the horrible and monotonous solitude
the wilderness. The very absence of anything to
CI
alarm was awful ; for the bravest man is wretchedly nerv-
ous in the solitary presence of sublime Nature. Even
the veteran hunter of the mountains can never entirely
divest himself of this feeling of awe, when his single soul
comes face to face with God's wonderful i d beautiful
handiwork.
At the close of the fourth day, Joe made his lonely
camp in a deep defile of the mountains, where a little fire
and some roasted mutton again comforted his inner and
outer man, and another night's sleep still farther refreshed
his wearied frame. On the following morning, a very
bleak and windy one, having breakfasted on his remain-
ing piece of mutton, being desirous to learn something of
the progress he had made, he ascended a low mountain in
the neighborhood of his camp — and behold ! the whole
country beyond was smoking with the vapor from boiling
springs, and burning with gasses, issuing from small cra-
ters, each of which was emitting a sharp whistling sound.
When the first surprise of this astonishing scene had
76
A HELL ON EARTH.
Wi
passed, Joe began to admire its eflfect in an artistic point
of view. The morning being clear, with a sharp frost, he
thought himself reminded of the city of Pittsburg, as he
had beheld it on a winter morning, a couple of years be-
fore. This, however, related only to the rising smoke and
vapor ; for the extent of the volcanic region was immense,
reaching far out of sight. The general face of the coun-
try was smooth and rolling, being a level plain, dotted
with cone-shaped mounds. On the summits of these
mounds were small craters from four to eight feet in di-
ameter. Interspersed among these, on the level plain,
were larger craters, some of them from four to six miles
across. Out of these craters issued blue flames and molten
brimstone.
For some minutes Joe gazed and wondered. Curious
thoughts came into his head, about hell and the day of
doom. With that natural tendency to reckless gayety
and humorous absurdities which some temperaments are
sensible of in times of great excitement, he began to solilo-
quize. Said he, to himself, "I have been told the sur.
would be blown out, and the earth burnt up. If this in-
fernal wind keeps up, I shouldn't be surprised if the sun
war blown out. If the earth is not burning up over thar,
then it is that plac^ the old Methodist preacher used to
threaten me with. Any way it suits me to go and see
what it's like."
On descending to the plain described, the earth was
found to have a hollow sound, and seemed threatening to
break through. But Joe found the warmth of thp place
most delightful, after the freezing cold of the mountali^
and remarked to himself again, that "if it war hell, H wa
a more agreeable climate than he had. been in for some
time."
He had thought the rountry entirely desolate, as not a
"OLD joe" — A JOYFUL RECOGNITION.
7r
* « 'it
living creature had been seen in the vicinity ; but while
he stood gazing about him in curious amazement, he was
startled by the report of two guns, followed by the Indian
yell. While making rapid preparations for defence and
flight, if either or both should be necessary, a familiar
voice greeted I.' .. with the exclamation, "It is old Joe! "
When the adjective " old " is applied to one of Meek's
age at that time, it is generally understood to be a term
of endearment. " My feelings you may imagine," says the
"old Uncle Joe" of the present time, in recalling the
adventure.
Being joined by these two associates, who had been look-
ing for him, our traveler, no longer siniply a raw recruit,
but a hero of wonderful adventures, as well as the rest of
the men, proceeded with them to camp, which they over-
took the third day, attempting to cross the high moun-
tains between the YellowstvMU> and the Bighorn Rivers.
If Meek had seen hard times in the mountains alona, he
did not find them much improved in canijv The snow
was so deep that the nn^n had to keep iu advance, and
break the road for the animals ; and to n\ake their condi-
tion still more trying, there were no provisions in oamp,
nor any prospect of plenty, for men or animals, until they
should reach the buffalo country beyond the mountains.
During this scarcity of provisions, w>nH» of those amus-
ing incidents took place with which the mountaineer will
contrive to lighten his own and his comrades' spirits, even
in periods of the greatest suffering. One which we have
permission to relate, has reference to what ^o3 Meek calla
the "meanest act of his life."
While the men were starving, a n*^,gro boy, belonging to
Jededimh Smith, by some means was so fortunate as to
liave caiught a porcupine, which he was roasting before the
ire. Haf»peai!«fr to turn his back for a mom«nt, to observe
. /jf-, . ?t"j
I* ',
r • » '
^V
wm
78
CRAIG S RABBIT.
\n^'
Hoinetliiiig in camp, Meek and Reese snatched the tempt-
iiif^ viand and mude off with it, before the darkey discov-
ered his loss. But when it was discovered, what a wail
went up for the einbez/led porcupine ! Suspicion fixed
upon the guilty parties, but as no one would 'peach on
white men to save a " nigger's " rights, the poor, disap-
pointed boy could do nothing but lament ir vain, to the
great ainusenicnt of the men, who upon the principle that
"misery loves company," rather chuckled over than con-
demned Meek'a " mean act.''
There was a sequel, however, to this little story. So
much did the negro dwell upon the event, and the heart-
lessncss of the men towards him, that in the folio veing
summer, when Smith was in St. Louis, he gave the boy his
freedom and two hundred dollars, and left him in that city ;
so that it became a saying in the mountains, that "the nig-
ger got his freedom for a porcupine."
During this same march, a similar joke was played upon
on 3 of the men named TUaig. He had caught a rabbit
and put it up to roast before the fire — a tempting looking
morsel to starving mountaineers. Some of his associates
determined to see how it tasted, and Craig was told that
the Booshways wished to speak with him at their lodge.
While he obeyed this supposed command, the rabbit was
spirited away, never more to be seen by mortal man.
When Craig returned to the camp-fire, and beheld the
place vacant where a rabbit so late was nicely roastiag,hi3
passion knew no bounds, and he declared his intention of
cutting it out of the stomach that contained it. But (.3
finding the identical stomach which contained it involved
the cutting open of many that probably did not, in the
search, he was fain to relinquish that mode of vengeance,
together with his hopes of a supper. As Craig is still liv-
ing, and is tormented by the belief that he knows the man
WHAT THE BCOIJT SAW.
79
who stole his rabbit, Mr. Meek takes this opportunity of
assuring him, upon the word of a gentleman, that he is
net the man.
While on the march over these mountains, owing to the
depth of the snow, the company lost a hundred head of
horses and mules, which sank in the yet unfrozen drifts,
and could not be extricated. In despair at their situation,
Jcd(Kliah Smith one day sent a man named Harris to the
top of a high peak to take a view of the country, and ascer-
tain their position. After a toilsome scramble the scout
returned.
"Well, what did you see, Harris?" asked Smith anx-
iously.
"I saw the city of St. Louis, and one fellow taking a
drink ! " replied Harris ; prefacing the asLartion with a
shocking oath.
Smith asked no more questions. He understood by the
man's answer that he had made no pleasing discoveries ;
and knew that they had still a weary way before them to
reach the plains below. Besides, Smith was a religious
man, and the coarse profanity of the mountaineers was
very distasteful to him. " A very mild man, and a christ-
ian ; and there were very few of them in the mountains,"
is the account given of him by the mountaineers them-
selves.
The camp finally arrived without loss of life, except to
the animals, on the plaiuH of the Bighorn River, nnd came
upon the waters of the Stinking Fork, a branch of this
river, which derives its unfortunate appellation from the
fact that it flows through a volcanic tract similar to the
one discovered by Meek on the Yellowstorie plains. This
place afforded as much food for wonder to he whole cwnp,
as the former one had to Joe ; and the men unauirtiously
pronounced it the " back dour to that <. ouuiry which divmos
80
AN ALARM — CHOW WAU PARTY,
l%tj
preach about." As this volcanic district had previously
been seen by one of Lewis and Clarke's men, named Col-
ter, while on a solitary hunt, and by him also denominated
" hell," there must certainly have been something very
suggestive in its appearance.
If the mountains had proven barren, and inhospi' \.\j
cold, this hot and sulphurous country offered no greater
ho.si)itality. In fact, the fumes which pervaded the air
rendered it exceedingly noxious to every living thing,
and the camp was fain to push on to the main stream of
the Bighorn River. Here signs of trappers became appa-
rent, and spies having been sent out discovered a camp of
about forty men, under Milton Sublette, brother of Captain
William Sublette, the same that had been detached the
previous summer to hunt in that country. Smith and Sub-
lette then cached their furs, and moving up the river joined
the camp of M. Sublette.
The manner of caching furs is this : A pit is dug to a
depth of five or six feet in which to stand. The men then
drift from this under a bank of Holid earth, and excavate a
room of considerable dimensions^ in which the furs are
deposited, and the apartment closed up. The pit is then
filled up with earth, and the traces of digging obliterated
or concealed. These caches are the only storehouses of
the wilderness.
While the men were recruiting themselves in the joint
camp, the alarm of "Indians!" was given, and hurried
cries of "shoot! shoot!" were uttered on the instant.
Captain Sublette, however, checked this precipitation, and
ordering the men to hold, allowed the Indians to approach,
making signs of peace. They proved to be a war party
of Crows, who after smoking the pipe of peace with the
Captain, received from him a present of some tobacco, and
departed.
iii
If
■I'
As sc
eling, tl
and crof^
Valley ;
made S(
severity
eling.
Wind B|
brated
stances,
Harris, c
shoes, w
ble ener
k-'
CHRISTMAS.
81
As soon as the camp was sufficiently recruited for trav-
eling, the united companies set out again toward the south,
and crossed the Horn mountains once more into Wind River
Valley ; having had altogether, a successful fall hunt, and
made some important explorations, notwithstanding the
severity of the weather and the difficulty of mountain trav-
eling. It was about Christmas when the camp arrived on
Wind River, and the cold intense. While the men cele-
brated Christmas, as best they might under the circum-
stances, Capt. Sublette started to St. Louis with one man,
Harris, called among mountain-men Black Harris, on snow-
shoes, with a train of pack-dogs. Such was the indomita-
ble energy and courage of this famous leader I
*liil
CHAPTER IV.
1830, The furs collected by Jackson's company were
cached on the Wind River ; and the cold still being very
severe, and game scarce, the two remaining leaders, Smith
and Jackson, set out on the first of January with the
whole camp, for the buflfalo country, on the Powder
River, a distance of about one hundred and fifty miles.
" Times were hard in camp," when mountains had to be
crossed in the depth of winter.
The animals had to be subsisted on the bark of the
sweet cotton- wood, which grows along the streams and in
the valleys on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, but
is nowhere to be found west of that range. This way of
providing for his horses and mules involved no trifling
amount of labor, when each man had to furnish food for
several of them. To collect this bark, the men carried
the smooth limbs of the cotton-wood to camp, where, be-
side the camp-fire, they shaved off the sweet, green bark
with a hunting-knife transformed into a drawing-knife by
fastening a piece of wood to its point ; or, in case the
cotton-wood was not convenient, the bark was peeled off,
and carried to camp in a blanket. So nutritious is it,,
that animals fatten upon it quite as well as upon oats.
In the large cotton-wood bottoms on the Yellowstone
River, it sometimes became necessary to station a double
guard to keep the buffalo out of camp, so numerous were
they, when the severity of the cold drove them from the
prairies to these cotton-wood thickets for subsistence. It
THE TRANSFORMATION IN THE WILDERNESS.
83
was, tlierefore, of double importance to make the winter
lanip whore the cotton-wood was plenty ; since not only
(lid it unnisli the animals of the camp with food, but by
attracting buflalo, made game plenty for the men. To
such a hunter's paradise on Powder River, the camp was
now traveling, and arrived, after a hard, cold march,
about the middle of January, when the whole encamp-
ment went into winter quarters, to remain until the open-
ing of spring.
This was the occasion when the mountain-man " lived
fat" and enjoyed life : a season of plenty, of relaxation,
of amusement, of acquaintanceship with call the company,
of gayet)^^, and of "busy idleness." Through the day,
liunting parties were coming and going, men were cook-
ing, drying meat, making moccasins, cleaning their arms,
wrestling, playing games, and, in short, everything that
an isolated community of hardy men could resort to for
occupation, was resorted to by these mountaineers. Nor
was there wanting, in the appearance of the camp, the
variety, and that picturesque air imparted by a mingling
of the native element ; for what witli their Indian allies,
their native wives, and numerous children, the mountain-
eers' eamp was a motley assemblage ; and the trappers
themselves, w^'^^' +heir .affectation of Indian coxcombry,
not the least ]'ictii' sque individuals.
The change ^vroi ght in a wildernr^s landscape by the
arrival of the giuiul camp was wonderful indeed. Instead
of Nature's superb silence and majestic loneliness, there
was the sound of men's voices in boisterous laughter, or
the busy hum of conversation ; the loud-resounding stroke
of the axe ; the sharp report of the rifle ; the neighing
of horses, and braying of mules ; the Indian whoop and
yell ; and all that not unpleasing confusion of sound which
accompanies the movements of the creriture man. Over
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23 WIST MAIN STRIET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 145SP
(716) 872-4503
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84
THE ENCAMPMENT BY NIGHT.
the plain, only dotted until now with shadows of clouds,
or the transitory passage of the deer, the antelope, or the
bear, were scattered hundreds of lodges and immense
herds of grazing animals. Even the atmosphere itself
seemed changed from its original purity, and became
clouded with the smoke from many camp-fiiies. And all
this change might go as quickly as it came. The tent
struck and the march resumed, solitude reigned once
more, and only the cloud dotted the silent landscape.
If the day was busy and gleesome, the night had its
charms as well. Gathered about the shining fires, groups
of men in fantastic costumes told tales of marvelous ad-
ventures, or sung some old-remembered song, or were
absorbed in games of chance. Some of the better edu-
cated men, who had once known and loved books, but
whom some mishap in life had banished to the wilderness,
recalled their favorite authors, and recited passages once
treasured, now growing unfamiliar ; or whispered to some
chosen conirere the saddened history of his earlier years,
and charged him thus and thus, should ever-ready death
surprise himself in the next spring's hunt.
It will not be thought discreditable to our young trap-
per, Joe, that he learned to read by the light of the camp-
fire. Becoming sensible, even in the wilderness, of the
deficiencies of his early education, he found a teacher in
a comrade, named Green, and soon acquired sufficient
knowledge to enjoy an old copy of Shakspeare, which,
with a Bible, was carried about with the property of the
camp.
In this life of careless gayety and plenty, the whole
company waa allowed to remain without interruption,
until the first of April, when it was divided, and once
more started on the march. Jackson, or " Davey," as he
waa called by the men, with about half the company, left
UEAVY LOSS OF HOUSES AND TUAPS.
85
for the Snake country. The remainder, among whom
was Meek, started north, with Smith for commander, and
James Bridger as pilot.
Crossing the mountains, ranges of which divide the
tributary streams of the Yellowstone from each other, the
first halt was made on Tongue River. From thence the
camp proceeded to the Bighorn River. Through all this
country game was in abundance, — buffalo, elk, and bear,
and beaver also plenty. In mountain phrase, "times
were good on this hunt : " beaver packs increased in num-
ber, and both men and animals were in excellent condi-
tion.
A large party usually hunted out the beaver and fright-
ened away the game in a few weeks, or days, from any
one locality. When this happened the camp moved on ;
or, should not game be plenty, it kept constantly on the
move, the hunters and trappers seldom remaining out
more than a day or two. Should the country be consid-
ered dangerous on account of Indians, it was the habit of
the men to return every night to the encampment.
It was the design of Smith to take his command into
the Blackfoot country, a region abounding in the riches
which he sought, could they only be secured without
coming into too frequent conflict with the natives : always
a doubtful question concerning these savages. He had
proceeded in this direction as far as Bovey's Fork of the
Bighorn, when the camp was overtaken by a heavy fall
of snow, which made traveling extremely difficult, and
which, when melted, caused a sudden great rise in the
mountain streams. In attempting to cross Bovey's Fork
dui ing the high water, he had thirty horses swept away,
with three hundred traps : a serious loss in the business
of hunting beaver.
In the manner described, pushing on through an un-
•pi
,
3
1
I
i
i
i
' ■ i
'fVi
t I
86
ROBBED AND INSULTED BY A BEAR.
known country, hunting and trapping as they moved, the
company proceeded, passing another low chain of moun-
tains, through a pass called Pryor's Gap, to Clark's Fork
of the Yellowstone, thence to Rose-Bud River, and finally
to the main Yellowstone River, where it makes a great
bend to the east, enclosing a large plain covered with
grass, and having also extensive cotton-wood bottoms,
which subsequently became a favorite wintering ground
of the fur companies.
It was while trapping up in this country, on the Rose-
Bud River, that an amusing adventure befel our trapper
Joe. Being out with two other trappers, at some distance
from the great camp, they had killed and supped oflf a fat
buffalo cow. Th I 'night was snowy, and their camp was
made in a grove of young aspens. Having feasted them-
selves, the remaining store of choice pieces was divided
between, and placed, hunter fashion, under the heads of
the party, on their betaking themselves to their blanket
couches for the night. Neither Indian nor wild beast dis-
turbed their repose, as they slept, with their guns beside
them, filled with comfort and plenty. But who ever
dreams of the presence of a foe under such circum-
stances ? Certainly not our young trapper, who was only
awakened about day-break by something very large and
heavy walking over him, and snuffing about him with a
most insulting freedom. It did not need Yankee powers
of guessing to make out who the intruder in camp might
be : in truth, it was only too disagreeably certain that it
was a full sized grizzly bear, whose keenness of smell had
revealed to him the presence of fat cow-meat in that
neighborhood.
" You may be sure," says Joe, " that I kept very quiet,
while that bar helped himself to some of my buffalo meat,
and went a little way off to eat it. But Mark Head, one
A NOVEL FERIIIAGE.
sr
of the men, raised up, and back came the bar. Down
went our heads under the blankets, and I kept mine cov-
ered pretty snug, while the beast took another walk over
the bed, but finally went off again to a little distance.
Mitchel then wanted to shoot ; but 1 said, ' no, no ; hold
on, or the brute will kill us, sure.' When the bar heard
our voices, back he run again, and jumped on the bed as
before. I'd have been happy to have felt myself sinking
ten feet under ground, while that bar promenaded over
and around us ! However, he couldn't quite make out our
style, and finally took fright, and ran off down the moun-
tain. Wanting to be revenged for his impudence, I went
after him, and seeing a good chance, shot him dead.
Then I took my turn at running over him awl lie! "
Such are the not infrequent incidents of the trapper's
life, which furnish him with material, needing little em-
bellishment to convert it into those wild tales with which
the nights are whiled away around the winter camp-fire.
Ariived at the Yellowstone with his company. Smith
found it necessary, on account of the high water, to con-
struct Bull-boats for the crossing. These are made by
stitching together buffalo, hides, stretching them over light
frames, and paying the seams with elk tallow and ashes.
In these light wherries the goods and people were ferried
over, while the horses and mules were crossed by swim-
ming.
The mode usually adopted in crossing large rivers, was
to spread the lodges on the ground, throwing on them the
light articles, saddles, etc. A rope was then run through
the pin-holes around the edge of each, when it could be
drawn up like a reticule. It was then filled with the
heavier camp goods, and being tightly drawn up, formed a
perfect ball. A rope being tied to it, it was launched on
the water, the children of the camp on top, and the wo-
mel swimming after and clinging to it, while a man, who
w
i
s!
1
I : ■
*( i
K ,
I VH
hS
RETURN MARCH — RUDE BURIAL SERVICE.
had the rope in his hand, swam ahead holdi? g on to his
horse's mane. In this way, dancing like a cork on the
waves, the lodge was piloted across; and passengers as
well as freight consigned, undamaged, to the opposite
shore. A large camp of three hundred men, and one
hundred women and children were frequently thus crossed
in one hour's time.
The camp was now in the excellent but inhospitable
country of the Blackfeet, and the commander redoubled
his precautions, moving on all the while to the Mussel Shell,
and thence to the Judith River. Beaver were plenty
and game abundant ; but the vicinity of the large village
of the Blackfeet made trapping impracticable. Their
war upon the trappers was cesiseless ; their thefts of traps
and horses ever recurring : and Smith, finding that to re-
main was to be involved in incessant warfare, without
hope of victory or gain, at length gave the command to
turn back, which was cheerfully obeyed : for the trappers
had been very successful on the spring hunt, and thinking
discretion some part at least of valor, were glad to get
safe out of the Blackfoot country with their rich harvest
of beaver skins.
The return march was by the way of Pryor's Gap, and
up the Bighorn, to Wind River, where the cache wa^
made in the previous December. The furs were now
taken out and pressed, ready for transportation across the
plains. A party was also dispatched, under Mr. Tullock,
to raise the cache on the Bighorn River. Among this
party was Meek, and a Frenchman named Ponto. While
digging to come at the fur, the bank above caved in, fal-
ling upon Meek and Ponto, killing the latter almost in-
stantly. Meek, though severely hurt, was taken out alive :
while poor Ponto was "rolled in a blanket, and pitched
into the river." So rude were the burial services of the
trapper of the Rocky Mountains.
THE OLD PARTNERS TAKE LEAVE.
89
Meek was packed back to camp, along with the furs,
where he soon recovered. Sublette arrived from St.
Louis with fourteen wagons loaded with merchandise, and
two hundred additional men for the service. Jackson also
arrived from the Snake country with plenty of beaver,
and the business of the yearly rendezvous began. Then
the scenes previously described were re-enacted. Beaver,
the currency of the mountains, was plenty that year, and
goods were high accordingly. A thousand dollars a day
was not too much for some of the most reckless to spend
on their squaws, horses, alcohol, and themselves. For
" alcohol " was the beverage of the mountaineers. Liquors
could not be furnished to the men in that country. Pure
alcohol was what they " got tight on ;" and a desperate
tight it was, to be sure !
An important change took place in the affairs of the
Rocky Mountain Company at this rendezvous. The three
partners, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, sold out to a new
firm, consisting of Milton Sublette, James Bridger, Fitz-
patrick. Frapp, and Jervais ; the new company retaining
the same name and style as the old.
The old partners left for St. Louis, with a company of
seventy men, to convoy the furs. Two of them never re-
turned V J the Rocky Mountains ; one of them. Smith, be-
ing killed the following year, as will hereafter be related;
and Jackson remaining in St. Louis, where, like a true
mountain-man, he dissipated his large and hard-earned
fortune in a few years. Captain Sublette, however, con-
tinued to make his annual trips to and from the mountains
for a number of years ; and until the consolidation of an-
other wealthy company with the Rocky Mountain Com-
pany, continued to furnish goods to the latter, at a profit
on St. Louis prices ; his capital and experience enabling
him to keep the new firm under his control to a large
degree.
rill, a iii
i I
I M
lii
CHAPTER V.
1830. The whole country lying upon the Yellowstone
and its tributaries, and about the head- waters of theMissouri,
at the time of which we are writing, abounded not only in
beaver, but in buffalo, bear, elk, antelope, and many smaller
kinds of game. Indeed the buffalo used then to cross
the mountains into the valleys about the head-waters of the
Snake and Colorado Rivers, in such numbers that at cer-
tain seasons of the year, the plaii)s and river bottoms
swarmed with them. Since that day they have quite dis-
appeared from the western slope of the Rocky Mountains,
and are no longer seen in the same numbers on the east-
ern side. ,
Bear, although they did not go in herds, were rather
uncomfortably numerous, and sometimes put the trapper
to considerable trouble, and fright also ; for very few were
brave enough to willingly encounter the formidable griz-
zly, one blow of whose terrible paw, aimed generally at
the hunter's head, if not arrested, lays him senseless and
torn, an easy victim to the wrathful monster. A gunshot
wound, if not directed with certainty to some vulnerable
point, has only the effect to infuriate the beast, and mfike
him trebly dangerous. From the fact that the bear al-
ways bites his wound, and commences to run with his
head thus brought in the direction from which the ball
comes, he is pretty likely to make a straight wake towards
his enemy, whether voluntarily or not ; and woe be to the
hunter who is Yiot prepared for him, with a sho* for hk
owstone
lissouri,
only in
r smaller
to cross
rs of tlie
it at cer-
bottoms
luite dis-
)untains,
the eaat-
•e rather
! trapper
few were
,ble griz-
lerally at
eless and
gunshot
iilnerable
nd make
bear al-
with his
the ball
I towards
be to the
)♦ for his
f
AN ADVENTUUE WITH A GRIZZLY.
91
eye, or the spot just behind the ear, where certain death
filters.
In the frequent encounters of the mountain-men with
these huge beasts, many acts of wonderful bravery were
performed, while i^ome tragedies, and not a few comedies
were enacted.
From something humorous in Joe Meek's organization,
or some wonderful "luck" to which he was born, or both,
the greater part of his adventures with bears, as with men,
were of a humorous complexion ; enabling him not only
to have a story to tell, but one at which his companions
were bound to laugh. One of these which happened dur-
ing the fall hunt of 1830, we will let him tell for himself:
" The first fall on the Yellowstone, Hawkins and myself
were coming up the river in search of camp, when we dis-
covered a very large bar on the opposite bank. We shot
across, and thought we had killed him, fur he laid quite
still. As we wanted to take some trophy of our victory
to camp, we tied our mules and left our guns, clothes, and
everything except our knives and belts, and swum over to
whar the bar war. But instead of bfeing dead, as we ex-
pected, he sprung up as we come near him, and took after
us. Then you ought to have seen two naked men run !
It war a race for life, and a close one, too. But we made
the river first. The bank war about fifteen feet high above
the water, and the river ten or twelve feet deep ; but we
didn't halt. Overboard we went, the bar after us, and in
the stream about as quick as we war. The current war
very strong, and the bar war about half way between
Hawkins and me. Hawkins was trying to swim down
stream faster than the current war carrying the bar, and I
war a trying to hold back. You can reckon that I swam I
Every moment I felt myself being washed into the yawn-
ing jaws of the mighty beast, whose head war up tha
wrw
92
BILLY, DAVKV, AND OLD OABB.
=i ■I
y
Stream, and his eyes on me. B, L the current war too strong
for him, and swept him along as fast as it did me. All this
time, not a long one, wo war looking for some place to
land where the bar could not ov(;rtake us. Hawkins war
the first to make the shore, unknown to the bar, whose
head war still up stream ; aid !.o set up such a whooping
and yelling that the bar landed too, but on the opposite
side. I made haste to follow Hawkins, who had landed
on the side of the riv?»* we started from, either by design
or good luck : and then we traveled back a mile and more
to whar our mules war left — a bar on one side of the river,
and two bares on the other ! "
Notwithstanding that a necessary discipline was observed
and maintained in the fur traders^ camp, there was at the
same time a freedom of manner between the Booshways
and the men, both hired and free, which could not obtain
in a purely military organization, nor even in the higher
walks of civilized life in cities. In the mountain commu-
nity, motley as it was, as in other communities more refined,
were some men who enjoyed almost unlimited freedom of
speech and action, ahd others who were the butt of every-
body's ridicule or censure. The leaders themselves did
not escape the critical judgment of the men ; and the es-
timation in which they were held could be inferred from
the manner in which they designated them. Captain Sub-
lette, whose energy, courage, and kindness entitled him to
the admiration of the mountaineers, went by the name of
Billy : his partner Jackson, was called Davey ; Bridger,
old Gabe, and so on. In the same manner the men distin-
guished favorites or oddities amongst themselves, and ta
have the adjective old prefixed to a man's name signified
nothing concerning his age, but rather that he was
object of distinction; though it did not always iud f'.t
except by the tone in which it was pronounced, •whtv'f
that distinction were an enviable one or not.
now 8UHLETTK CLIMBED A COTTONWOOD.
93
Whenever a trapper could get hold of any sort of story
reflecting on the courage of a leader, he was sure at some
time to make him aware of it, and these anecdotes were
sometimes sharp answers in the mouths of careless camp-
keepers. Bridger was once waylaid by Blaci : Rt, who
shot at him, hitting his horse in several plac •a. The
wounds caused the animal to rear and pitch, by reason of
which violent movements Bridger dropped his pan, aud
the Ind'ert snatched it up; after which there was nothing
to do except to run, which Bridger accordinijly did. Not
long after this, as was customary, the leader was making
a circuit of the camp examining the camp-keeper's guns,
to see if they were in order, and found that of one Ma
loney, an Irishman, in a very dirty condition.
" What would you do," asked Bridger, "with a gun like
that, if the Indians were to charge on the camp ? "
"Be , I would throw it to them, and run the way
ye did," answered Maloney, quickly. It was sometime
after this incident before Bridger again examined Malo-
uey's gun.
A laughable story in this way went the rounds of the
camp in this fall of 1830. Milton Sublette was out on a
hunt with Meek after buffalo, and they were just approach-
ing the band on foot, at a distance apart of about fifty yards,
when a large grizzly bear came out of a thicket and made
after Sublette, who, when he perceived the creature, ran
for the nearest cotton- wood tree. Meek in the meantime,
seeing that Sublette was not likely to escape, had taken
sure aim, and fired at the bear, fortunately killing him.
On running up to the spot where it laid, Sublette was discov-
ered sitting at the foot of a cotton-wood, with his legs and
arms clasped tightly around it.
" Do you always dimb a tree in that way ? " asked Meek,
' vir' f t '< ■
94
A SUCCESSFUL HUNT.
vi!
» ■''■
"I reckon you took the wrong end of it, that time,
Milton!"
" I'll be , Meek, if I didn't think I was twenty
feet up that tree when you shot; " answered the frightened
Booshway ; and from that time the men never tired of
alluding to Milton's manner of climbing a tree.
THK WRONG END OF THE TREE.
These were some of the mirthful incidents which gave
occasion for a gayety which had to be substituted for hap-
piness, in the checkered life of the trapper ; and there
were like to be many such, where there were two hun-
dred men, each almost daily in the way of adventures by
flood or field.
On the change in the management of the Com.pany
which occurred at the rendezvous this year, three of the
new partners, Fitzpatrick, Sublette, and Bridger, conducted
a large party, numbering over two hundred, from the Wind
Hiver to the Yellowstone ; crossing thence to Smith's River,
the Falls of the Missouri, three forks of the Missouri, and
to the Big Blackfoot River. The hunt proved very suc-
cessful ; beaver were plentiful ; and the Blackfeet shy of
so large a traveling party. Although so long in their
country, there were only four men killed out of the whole
company during this autumn.
MEETING WITH RIVAL TRAPPERS.
95
From the Blackfoot River the company proceeded down
the west side of the mountains to the forks of the Snake
River, and after trapping for a short time in this locality,
continued their march southward as far as Ogden's Hole,
a small valley among the Bear River Mountains.
At this place they fell in with a trading and trapping
party, under Mr. Peter Skeen Ogden, of the Hudson's Bay
Company. And now commenced that irritating and rep-
rehensible style of rivalry with which the different com-
panies were accustomed to annoy one another. Accom-
panying Mr. Ogden's trading party were a party of Rock-
way Indians, who were from the North, and who were
employed by the Hudson's Bay Company, as the Iroquois
and Crows were, to trap for them, Fitzpatrick and asso-
ciates camped in the neighborhood of Ogden's company,
and immediately set about endeavoring to purchase from
the Rockways and others, the furs collected for Mr. Ogden.
Not succeeding by fair means, if the means to such an end
could be called fair, — they opened a keg of whiskey, which,
when the Indians had got a taste, soon drew them away
from the Hudson's Bay trader, the regulations of whose
company forbade the selling or giving of liquors to the
Indians. Under its influence, the furs were disposed of to
the Rocky Mountain Company, who in this manner obtained
nearly the whole product of their year's hunt. This course
of conduct \« ,\s. naturally exceedingly disagreeable to Mr.
Ogden, as well as unprofitable also ; and a feeling of hos-
tility grew up and increased between the two camps.
While matters were in this position, a stampede one day
occurred among the horses in Ogden's camp, and two or
three of the animals ran away, and ran into the camp of
the rival company. Among them was the horse of Mr.
Ogden's Indian wife, which had escaped, with her babe
hanging to the saddle.
7
90
OGDEN S INDIAN WIFE.
Not many minutes elapsed, before the mother, following
her child and horse, entered the camp, passing right
through it, and catching the now halting steed by the bri-
dle. At the same momen*; she espied one of her com-
pany's pack-horses, loaded with beaver, which had also
run into the enemy's camp. The men had already begun
to exult over the circumstance, considering this chance
load of beaver as theh's, by the laws of war. But not so
the Indian woman. Mounting her own horse, she fearlessly
seized the pack-horse by the halter, and led it out of camp,
with its costly burden.
At this undaunted action, some of the baser sort of men
cried out " shoot her, shoot her ! " but a majority interfered,
with opposing cries of "let her go; let her alone; she's
a brave woman : I glory in her pluck ;" and other like
admiring expressions. While the clamor continued, the
wife of Ogden had galloped away, with her baby and
her pack-horse.
As the season advanced, Fitzpatrick, with his other part-
ners, returned to the east side of the mountains, and went
into winter quarters on Powder river. In this trapper's
"land of Canaan" they remained between two and three
months. The other two partners. Frapp and Jervais, who
were trapping far to the south, did not return until the
following year.
While wintering it became necessary to send a dispatch
to St. Louis on the company's business. Meek and a
Frenchman named Legarde, were chosen for this service,
which was one of trust and peril also. They proceeded
without accident, however, until the Pawnee villages were
reached, when Legarde was taken prisoner. Meek, more
cautious, escaped, and proceeded alone a few days' travel
beyond, when he fell in with an express on its way to St.
Louis, to whom he delivered his dispatches, and returned
CROW horse-teuevl:
97
to camp, accompanied only by a Frenchman named Cabe-
neau; thus proving himself an eflScient mountaineer at
twenty years of age.
1831. As soon as the spring opened, sometime in
March, the whole company started north again, for the
Blackfooi o^uatry. But on the night of the third day out,
they fell unawares into the neighborhood of a party of
Crow Indians, whose spies discovered the company's
horses feeding on the dry grass of a little bottom, and
succeeded in driving off about three hundred head. Here
was a dilemma to be in, in the heart of an enemy's coun-
try ! To send the remaining horses after these, might be
"sending the axe after the helve;" besides most of them
belonged to the free trappers, and could not be pressed
into the service.
The only course remaining was to select the best men
and dispatch them on foot, to overtake and retake the
stolen horses. Accordingly one hundred trappers were
ordered on this expedition, among whom were Meek,
Newell, and Antoine Godin, a half-breed and brave fellow,
who was to lead the party. Following the trail of
the Crows for two hundred miles, traveling day and night,
on the third day they came up with them on a branch of
the Bighorn • river. The trappers advanced cautiously,
and being on the opposite side of the stream, on a wooded
bluff, were enabled to approach close enough to look into
their fort, and count the unsuspecting thieves. There
were sixty of them, fine young braves, who believed that
now they had made a start in life. Alas, for the vanity
of human, and especially of Crow expectations ! Even
then, while they were grouped around their fires, congratu-
lating themselves on the sudden wealth which had descend-
ed upon tb^ n, aa it were from the skies, an enviouc fate,
in the shape of several roguish white trappers, was laugh-
nm
Wi-J
98
NIGHT ATTACK ON THE INDIAN FORT.
ing lit them and their hopes, from the overhanging bluff
opposite them. And by and by, when they were wrapped
in a satisfied slumber, two of these laughing rogues, Rob-
ert Newell, and Antoine Godin, stole under the very
walls of their fort, and setting the horses free, drove them
across the creek.
The Indians were awakened by the noise of the tramp-
ling horses, and sprang to arms. But Meek and his fellow-
trappers on the bluff fired into the fort with such effect
that the Crows were appalled. Having delivered their
first volley, they d'l not wait for the savages to recover
from their recoil. Mounting in hot haste, the cavalcade
of bare-back riders, and their drove of horses, were soon
far away from the Crow fort, leaving the ambitious braves
to finish their excursion on foot. It was afterwards ascer-
tained that the Crows lost seven men by that one volley
of the trappers.
Flushed with success, the trappers yet found the back-
ward journey more toilsome than the outward ; for what
with sleeplessness and fatigue, and bad traveling in melted
snow, they were pretty well exhausted when they reached
camp. Fearing, however, another raid from the thieving
Crows, the camp got in motion again with as little delay
as possible. Tley had not gone far, when Fitzpatrick
turned back, with only one man, to go to St. Louis for
supplies.
After the departure of Fitzpatrick, Bridger and Sublette
completed their spring and summer campaign without any
material loss in men or animals, and with considerable
gain in beaver skins. Having once more visited the Yel-
lowstone, they turned to the south again, crossing the
mountains into Pierre's Hole, on to Snake river ; thence
to Salt river ; thence to Bear river ; and thence to Green
river, to rendezvous.
' MEDICINE MAN CONSULTED.
99
It was expected that Fitzpatrick would have arrived
from St. Louis with the usual annual recruits and supplies
of merchandise, in time for the summer rendezvous ; but
after waiting for some time in vain, Bridger and Sublette
determined to send out a small party to look for him.
The large number of men now employed, had exhausted
the stock of goods on hand. The camp was without
blankets and without ammunition ; knives were not to be
had ; traps were scarce ; but worse than all, the tobacco
had given out, and alcohol was not! In such a case as
this, what could a mountain-man do ?
To seek the missing Booshway became not only a duty,
but a necessity ; and not only a necessity of the physical
man, but in an equal degree a need of the- moral and spir-
itual man, which was rusting with the tedium of waiting.
In the state of uncertainty in which the minds of the com-
pany were involved, it occurred to that of Frapp to con-
sult a great "medicine-man" of the Crows, one of those
recruits filched from Mr. Ogden's party by whiskey the
previous year.
Like all eminent professional men, the Crow chief re-
quired a generous f^e, of the value of a horse or two,
bji..e he would begin to make "medicine." This pecul-
iar ceremony is pretty much alike among all the diflferent
tribes. It is observed first in the making of a medicine
man, ^. e., qualifying him for his profession ; and after-
wards is practiced to enable him to heal the sick, to
prophecy, and to dream dreams, or even to give victory
to his people. To a medicine-man was imputed great
power, not only to cure, but to kill ; and if, as it some-
times happened, the relatives of a sick man suspected the
medicine-man of having caused his death, by the exercise
of evil powers, one of them, or all of them, pursued him
If!
Ij-:'
' «
M-
T
100
HOW MEDICINE MEN ARE MADE.
to the death. Therefore, although it might be honorable,
it was not always safe to be a great " medicine."
The Indians placed a sort of religious value upon the
practice of fasting ; a somewhat curious fact, when it ia
remembered how many compulsory fasts they are obliged
to endure, which must train them to think lightly of the
deprivation of food. Those, however, who could endure
voluntary abstinence long enough, were enabled to be-
come very wise and very brave. The manner of making
a " medicine " among some of the interior tribes, is in cer-
tain respects similar to the practice gone through with by
some preachers, in making a convert. A sort of camp-
meeting is held, for several nights, generally about five,
during which various dances are performed, with cries,
and incantations, bodily exercises, singing, and nervous
excitement ; enough to make many patients, instead of
one doctor. But the native's constitution is a strong one,
and he holds out well. At last, however, one or more
are overcome with the mysterious power which enter? into
them at that time ; making, instead of a saint, only a su-
perstitious Indian doctor.
The same sort of exercises which had made che Cree
man a doctor were now resorted to, in order that he might
obtain a more than natural sight, enabling him to see vis-
ions of the air, or at the least to endow him with pro-
phetic dreams. After several nights of singing, dancing,
hopping, screeching, beating of drums, and other more
violent exercises and contortions, the exhausted medicine-
man fell off to sleep, and when he awoke he announced
to Frapp that Fitzpatrick waf not dead. He was on the
road; some road; out not t) right one; etc., etc.
Thus encouraged, Frapp aetermined to take a party,
and go in search of him. Accordingly Meek, Reese,
Ebarts, and Nelson, volunteered to accompany him. This
THE MlSSma TRADER FOUND.
101
party set out, first in the direction of Wind River ; but
not discovering any signs of the lost Booshway in that
quarter, crossed over to the Sweetwater, and kept along
down to the North Pork of the Platte, and thence to the
Black Hills, where they found a beautiful country full of
game ; but not the hoped-for train, with supplies. After
waiting for a short time at the Black Hills, Frapp's party
returned to the North Fork of the Platte, and were
rejoiced to meet at last, the long absent partner, with his
pack train. Urged by Frapp, Fitzpatrick hastened for-
ward, and came into camp on Powder River after winter
had Get in.
Fitzpatrick had a tale to tell the other partners, in ex-
planation of his unexpected delay. When he had started
for St. Louis in the month of March previous, he had
hoped to have met the old partners, Capt. Sublette and
Jedediah Smith, and to have obtained the necessary sup-
plies from them, to furnish the Summer rendezvous with
plenty. But these gentlemen, when he fell in with them,
used certain arguments which induced him to turn back,
and accompany them to Santa Fe, where they prom-
ised to furnish him goods, as he desired, and to procure
for him an escort at that place. The journey had proven
tedious, and unfortunate. They had several times been
attacked by Indians, and Smith had been killed. While
they were camped on a small tributary of the Simmaron
River, Smith had gone a short distance from camp to pro-
cure water, and while at the stream tvas surprised by an
ambush, and murdered on the spot, his murderers escaping
unpunished. Sublette, now left alone in the business,
finally furnished him ; and he had at last made his way
back to his Rocky Mountain camp.
But Fitzpatrick's content at being once more with his
company was poisoned by the disagreeable proximity of a
\mi
w
102
EXPEDITION ON SNOW SHOES.
rival company. If he had annoyed Mr. Ogden of the
Hudson's Bay Company, in the previous autumn, Major
Vanderburg and Mr. Dripps, of the American Company,
in their turn annoyed him. This company had been on
their heels, from the Platte River, and now were camped
in the same neighborhood, using the Rocky Mountain
Company as pilots to show them the country. As this
was just what it was not for their interest to do, the
Rocky Mountain Company raised camp, and fairly ran
away from them ; crossing the mountains to the Forks of
the Snake River, where they whitered among the Nez Pei>
ces and Flathead Indians.
Some time during this winter. Meek and Legarde, who
had escaped from the Pawnees, made another expedition
together ; traveling three hundred miles on snowshoes, to
the Bitter Root River, to look for a party of free trappers,
whose beaver the company wished to secure. They were
absent two months and a half, on this errand, and were
entirely successful, passing a Blackfoot village in the
night, but having no adventures worth recounting.
CHAPTER VI.
1832, In the following spring, the Rocky Mountain Fur
Company commenced its march, first up Lewis' Fork, then
on to Salt River, thence to Gray's River, and thence to
Bear River. They fell in with the North American Fur
Company on the latter river, with a large lot of g^ods,
but no beaver. The American Company's resident part-
ners were ignorant of the country, and were greatly at a
loss where to look for the good trapping grounds. These
gentlemen, Vanderburg and Dripps, were therefore in-
clined to keep an eye on the movements of the Rocky
Mountain Company, whose leaders were acquainted with
the whole region lying along the mountains, from the
head-waters of the Colorado to the northern branches of
the Missouri. On the other hand, the Rocky Mountain
Company were anxious to "shake the dust from off their
feet," which was trodden by the American Company, and
to avoid the evils of competition in an Indian country.
But they found the effort quite useless ; the rival company
had a habit of turning up in the most unexpected places,
and taking advantage of the hard-earned experience of
the Rocky Mountain Company's leaders. They tampered
with the trappers, and ferreted out the secret of their next ren-
dezvous ; they followed on their trail, making them pilots
to the trapping grounds ; they sold goods to the Indians,
and what was worse, to the hired trappers. In this way
grew up that fierce conflict of interests, which made it "as
much as his life was worth" for a trapper to suffer himself
"Win I -'"P'! I '
fff
104
THE CHIEFS DAUGHTER — SUBLETTE WOUNDED.
i
''.mi!;
to be inveigled into the service of a rival company, which
about this time or a little later, was at its highest, and
which finally ruined the fur-trade for the American com-
panies in the Rocky Mountains.
Finding their rivals in possession of the ground, Bridget
and Milton Sublette resolved to spend but a few days in
that country. But so far as Sublette was concerned, cir-
cumstances ordered differently. A Rockway Chief, named
Gray, and seven of his people, had accompanied the camp
from Ogden's Hole, in the capacity of trappers. But dur-
ing the sojourn on Bear River, there waa a quarrel ia
camp on account of some indignity, real or fancied, which
had been offered to the chief's daughter, and in the affray
Gray stabbed Sublette so severely that it was thought he
must die.
It thus fell out that Sublette had to be left behind ; and
Meek who was his favorite, was left to take care of him
while he lived, and bury him if he died ; which trouble
Sublette saved him, however, by getting well. But they
had forty lonesome days to themselves after the camps
had moved off, — one on the heels of the other, to the
great vexation of Bridger. Time passed slowly in Sub-
lette's lodge, while waiting for his wound to heal. Day
passed after day, so entirely like each other that the mo-
notony alone seemed sufficient to invite death to an easy
conquest. But the mountain-man's blood, like the In-
dians, is strong and pure, and his flesh heals readily, there-
fore, since death would not have him, the wounded man
was forced to accept of life in just this monotonous form.
To him Joe Meek was everything,—- -hands, feet, physician,
guard, caterer, hunter, cook, companion, friend. What
long talks they had, when Sublette grew better : what
stories they told ; what little glimpses of a secret chamber
in their hearts, and a better than the every-day spirit, in
CAPTURED BY SNAKE INDUNS.
105
their bosoms, was revealed, — as men will reveal such
things in the isolation of sea-voyages, or the solitary pres-
ence of majestic Nature.
To the veteran mountaineer there must have been
something soothing in the care and friendship of the
youth of twenty-two, with his daring disposition, his frank-
ness, his cheerful humor, and his good looks ; — for our Joe
was growing to be a maturely handsome man — tall, broad-
shouldered, straight, with plenty of flesh, and none too
much of it ; a Southerner's olive complexion ; frank, dark
eyes, and a classical nose and chin. What though in the
matter of dress he was ignorant of the latest styles ? —
grace ^'mparts elegance even to the trapper's beaver-skin
cap and blanket capote.
At the end of forty days, as many as it took to drown
a world, Sublette found himself well enough to ride ; and
the two set out on theii search for camp. But now other
adventures awaited them. On a fork of Green River,
they came suddenly upon a band of Snake Indians fee.
ing their horses. As soon as the Snakes discovered the
white men, they set up a yell, and made an instinctive
rush for their horses. Now was the critical moment.
One word passed between the travelers, and they made a
dash past the savages, right into the village, and never
slacked rein until they threw themselves from their horses
at the door of the Medicine lodge. This is a large and fan-
cifully decorated lodge, which stands in the centre of a vil-
lage, and like the churches of Christians, is sacred. Once
inside of this, the strangers were safe for the present ; their
blood could not be shed there.
The warriors of the village soon followed Sublette and
Meek into their strange house of refuge. In half an
hour it was filled. Not a word was addressed to the
strangers ; nor by them to the Indians, who talked among
106
A SOLEMN COUNCIL — SENTENCE OF DEATH.
themselves with a solemn eagerness, while they smoked
the medicine pipe, as inspiration in their councils. Great
was the excitement in the minds of the listeners, who un-
derstood the Snake tongue, as the question of their life or
death was gravely discusspd; yet in their countenances
appeared only the utmost serenity. To show fear, is to
whet an Indian's appetite for blood : coolness confounds
and awes him when anything will.
If Sublette had longed for excitement, while an invalid
in his lonely lodge on Bear River, he longed equally now
for that blissful seclusion. Listening for, and hearing
one's death-warrant from a band of blood-thirsty savages,
could only prove with bitter sharpness how sweet was life,
even the most uneventful. For hours the council continued,
and the majority favored the death-sentence. But one old
chief, called the good Ootia^ argued long for an acquittal:
he did not see the necessity of murdering two harmless
travelers of the white race. Nothing availed, however,
and just at sunset their doom was fixed.
The only hope of escape was, that, favored by darkness,
they might elude the vigilance of their jailers ; and night,
although so near, seemed ages away, even at sundown.
Death being decreed, the warriors left the lodge one by
one to attend to the preparation of the preliminary cere-
monies. Gotia, the good, was the last to depart. As he
left the Medicine lodge he made signs to the captives to
remain quiet until he should return ; pointing upwards to
signify that there was a chance of life ; and downwards
to show that possibly they must die.
What an age of anxiety was that hour of waiting ! Not
a word had been exchanged between the prisoners since
the Indians entered the lodge, until now ; and nOw very
little was said, for speech would draw upon them the vT^-
lance of their enemy, by whom they desired moat M*
dently to be forgotten.
A RESCUE — UMBNTUOKEN, THE MOUNTAIN LAMB. 107
About dusk there was a great noise, and confusion, and
clouds of dust, in the south end of the village. Some-
thing was going wrong among the Indian horses. Imme-
diately all the village ran to the scene of the disorder,
and at the same moment Gotia, the good, appeared at the
door of the Medicine lodge, beckoning the prisoners to
follow him. With alacrity they sprang up and after him,
and wore led across the stream, to a thicket on the oppo-
site side, where their horses stood, ready to mount, in the
charge of a young Indian girl. They did not stop for
compliments, though had time been less precious, they
might well have bestowed some moments of it in admira-
tion of Umeniucken Tukutsey Undewatsey, the Mountain
Lamb. Soon after, the beautiful Snake girl became the wife
of Milton Sublette ; and after his return to the States, of the
subject of this narrative; from which circumstance the
incident above related takes on something of the rosy hue
of romance.
As each released captive received his bridle from the
delicate hand of the Mountain Lamb, he sprang to the
saddle. By this time the chief had discovered that the
strangers understood the Snake dialect. "Ride, if you
wish to live," said he: "ride without stopping, all night:
and to-morrow linger not." With hurried thanks our
mountain-men replied to this advice, and striking into a
gallop, were soon far away from the Snake village. The
next day at noon found them a hundred and fifty miles on
their way to camp. Proceeding without further accident,
they crossed the Teton Mountains, and joined the com-
pany at Pierre's Hole, after an absence of b my four
months.
Here they found the ubiquitous if not omnipresent
American Fur Company encamped at the rendezvous of
the Rooky Mountain Co-»pany. The partners being anx
1
108
AN OBSTINATE RIVAL.
ious to be freed from this sort of espionage, and obstinate
competition on their own ground, made a proposition to
Vanderburg and Dripps to divide the country with them,
each company to keep on its own territory. This proposi-
tion was refused by the American Company ; perhaps be-
cause they feared having the poorer portion set ojS" to
themselves by their more experienced rivals. On this re-
fusal, the Rocky Mountain Company determined to send
an express to meet Capt. William Sublette, who was on
his way out with a heavy stock of merchandise, and hurry
him forward, lest the American Company should have the
opportunity of disposing of its goods, when the usual
gathering to rendezvous began. On this decision being
formed, Fitzpatrick determined to go on this errand him-
self; which he accordingly did, falling in with Sublette,
and Campbell, his associate, somewhere near the Black
Hills. To them he imparted his wishes and designs, and
receiving the assurance of an eai'ly arrival at rendezvous,
parted from them at the Sweetwater, and hastened back,
alone, as he came, to prepare for business.
Captain Sublette hurried forward with his train, which
consisted of sixty men with pack-horses, three to a man.
In company with him, w»s Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, a history
of whose fur-trading and salmon-fishing adventures has
already been given. Captain Sublette had fallen in with
Mr. Wyeth at Independence, Missouri; and finding him
ignorant of the undertaking on which he was launched,
offered to become pilot and traveling companion, an offer
which was gratefully accepted.
The caravan had reached the foot-hills of the Wind
River Mountains, when the raw recruits belonging to both
these parties were treated to a slight foretaste of what
Indian fighting would be, should they ever have to en^
counter it. Their camp was suddenly tjouaed at midnight
FITZPATRICK S ADVENTURE IN THE MOUNTAINS.
109
by tlie simultaneous discharge of guns and arrows, and
the frightful whoops and yells with which the savages
make an attack. Nobody was wounded, however; but
on springing to arms, the Indians fled, taking with them
a few horses which their yells had frightened from their
pickets. These marauders were Llackfeet, as Captain
Sublette explained to Mr. Wyeth, their moccasin tracks
having betrayed them ; for as each tribe has a peculiar
way of making or shaping the moccasin, the expert in'
Indian habits can detect the nationality of an Indian thief
by his foot-print. After this episode of the night assault,
the leaders redoubled their watchfulness, and reached
their destination in Pierre's hole about the first of July.
When Sublette arrived in camp, it vrac found that Fitz-
patrick was missing. If the other partners had believed
him to be with the Captain, the Captain expected to find
him with them. ; but since neither could account to the
other for his noii appearance, much anxiety was felt, and
Sublette remembered with apprehension the visit he had
received from Blackfeet. However, before anything had
been detci'mined upon with regard to him, he made his
appearance in camp, in company with two Iroquois half-
breeds, br^longing to the camp, who had been out on a
hunt.
Fitzpatrick had met with an adventure, as had been
conjectured. Whi^e coming up the Green river valley,
he descried a small party of mounted men, whom he mis-
took for a company of trappers, and stopped to recon-
noitre; but almost at the same moment the supposed
trappers, perceiving him, set up a yell that quickly unde-
ceived him, and compelled him to flight Abandoning
his ptick-horse, b . put the other to its topmost speed
and succeeded in gaining the mountains, where in a deep
and dark defile he secreted himself until he judged the
110
ROUGH SPORTS.
'Pi!
n:
Iti
Indians had Lft that part of the valley. In this he was
deceived, for no sooner did he emerge again into the open
country, than he was once more pursued, anl had id
abandon his horse, to take refuge among the cliffs of the
mountains. Here he remained for several days, without
blankets ^-r provisions, and with only one charge of am-
munition, which was in his rifle, and kept for self-defense.
At length, however, by frequent reconnoitering, he man-
aged to elude his enemies, traveling by night, until he
fortunately met with the two hunters from camp, and was
con\ eyed by them to the rendezvous.
All the parties were nov^ safely in. The lonely moun-
tain valley was populous with the different camps. The
JRocky Movntain and American con^anies had their sep-
arate camps ; Wyeth had his ; a company of free trappers,
fifteen in number, led by a man named Sinclair, from Ar-
kansas, had the fourth ; the Nez Perccs and Flatheads, the
allies of the Rocky Mountain company, and the friends of
the whites, had their lodges along all the streams ; so that
altogether there could not have been less than one thou-
sand souls, and two or three thousand horses and mules
gathered in this place.
"Wlien the pie was opened then the birds began to
sing." When Cnptain Sublette's goods were opened and
fiaiiibuted among the trappers and Indians, then began
the usual gay carousal; and the "fast young men" of the
mountains outvied each other in all manner of mad pranks.
In the beginning of their spree many feats of horseman-
ship and personal strength were exhibited, which were
regarded with admiring wonder by the sober and inexpe-
rienced New Englanders under Mr. Wyeth's command.
And as nothing stimulated the vanity of iha mountain-
men like an audience of this sort, the feats they performed
were apt to astonish themselves. In exhibitions of ^
A MAN OX FIRE — AN EXPEDITION TO THE SOUTH-WEST. Ill
kind, the free trappers took the lead, and usually carried
off the palm, like the privileged class that they were.
But the horse racing, fine riding, wrestling, and all the
manlier sports, soon degenerated into the baser exhibi-
tions of a "crazy drunk" condition. The vessel in which
the trapper received and carried about his supply of alco-
hol was one of the small camp kettles. "Passing round"
this clumsy goblet very freely, it was not long before a
goodly number were in the condition just named, and
ready for any mad freak whatever. It is reported by sev-
eral of the mountain-men that on the occasion of one of
these "frolics," one of their number seized a kettle of al-
cohol, and poured it over the head of a tall, lank, red-
headed fellow, repeating as he did so the baptismal cere-
mony. No sooner had he concluded, than another man
•with a lighted stick, touched him with the blaze, when in
an instant he was enveloped in flames. Luckily some of
the company had sense enough left to perceive his danger,
and began beating him with pack-saddles to put out the
blaze. But between the burning and the beating, the
unhappy wretch nearly lost his life, and never recovered
from the effects of his baptism by fire.
Beaver being plenty in camp, business was correspond-
ingly lively, there being a great demand for goods. When
this demand was supplied, as it was in the course of about
three weeks, the different brigades were set in motion.
One of the earliest to move was a small party under Mil
ton Sublette, including his constant companion, Meek.
With this company, no more than thirty in number, Sub-
lette intended to explore the country to the south-west,
then unknown to the fur companies, and to proceed as far
as the Humboldt river in that direction.
On the 17th of July they set out toward the south end
of the valley, and having made but about eight miles the
8
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112
BLACKFEET CARAVAN PEACEFUL OVERTURES.
first day, camped that night near a pass in the mountains.
Wyeth's party of raw New Englanders, and Sinclair's free
trappers, had joined themselves to the company of Milton
Sublette, and swelled the number in camp to about
sixty men, many of them new to the business of mountain
life.
Just as the men were raising camp for a start the next
morning, a caravan was observed moving down the moun-
tain pass into the valley. No alarm was at first felt, as an
arrival was daily expected of one of the American com-
pany's partisans, Mr. Fontenelle, and Lis company. But
on reconnoitering with a glass, Sublette discovered them
to be a large party of Blackfeet, consisting of a few
mounted men, and many more, men, women, and children,
on foot. At the instant they were discovered, they set up
the usual yell of defiance, and rushed down like a moun-
tain torrent into the valley, flourishing their weapons, and
fluttering their gay blankets and feathers in the wind.
There was no doubt as to the warlike intentions of the
Blackfeet in general, nor was it for a moment to be sup-
posed that any peaceable overture on their part meant
anything more than that they were not prepared to fight at
that particular juncture ; therefore let not the reader judge
too harshly of an act v/hich under ordinary circumstances
would have been infamous. In Indian fighting, every
man is his own leader, and the bravest take the fi'dnt
rank. On this occasion there were two of Sublette's men,
one a half-breed Iroquois, the other a Flathead Indian,
who had wrongs of their own to avenge, and they never
let slip a chance of killin"^ a Blackfoot. These two men
rode forth alone to meet the enemy, as if to hold a "talk"
with the principal chief, who advanced to meet them,
bearing the pipe of peace. When the chief extended
his hand, Antonio Godin, the half-breed, took it, but at the
A BATTLE REINFORCEMENTS.
113
same moment lie ordered the Flathead to fire, and the
chief fell dead. The two trappers galloped back to camp,
Antoine bearing for a trophy the scarlet blanket of his
enemy.
This action inade it impossible to postpone the battle,
as the dead chief had meant to do by peaceful overtures,
until the warriors of his nation came up. The Blackfeet
immediately betook themselves to a swamp formed by an
old beaver dam, and thickly overgrown with cotton-wood
and willow, matted together with tough vines. On the
edge of this dismal covert the warriors skulked, and shot
with their guns and arrows, while in its very midst the
women employed themselves in digging a trench and
throwing up a breastwork of logs, and whatever came to
hand. Such a defence as the thicket aiforded was one not
easy to attack ; its unseen but certain dangers being suffi-
cient to appal the stoutest heart.
Meantime, an express had been sent off to inform Cap-
tain Sublette of the battle, and summon assistance. Sin-
clair and his free trappers, with Milton Sublette's small
company, were the only fighting men at hand. Mr. Wyeth,
knowing the inefficiency of his men in aTi Indian fight,
had them entrenched behind their packs, and there left
them to take care of themselves, but charged them not to
appear in open field. As for the fighting men, they sta-
tioned themselves in a ravine, where they could occasion-
ally pick off a Blackfoot, and waited for reinforcements.
Great was the astonishment of the Blackfeet, who be-
lieved they had only Milton Sublette's camp to fight, when
they beheld first one party of white men and then an-
other ; and not only whites, but Nez Perces and Flatheads
came galloping up the valley. If before it had been a
battle to destroy the whites, it was now a battle to defend
themselves. Previous to the arrival of Captain Sublette,
w
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114
DEATH OF SINCLAIR.
the opposing forces had kept up only a scattering fire, in
which nobody on the side of the trappers had been either
killed or wounded. But when the impetuous captain
arrived on the battle-field, he prepared for less guarded
warfare. Stripped as if for the prize-ring, and armed
cap-a-pie, he hastened to the scene of action, accompanied
by his intimate friend and associate in business, Robert
Campbell.
At sight of the reinforcements, and their \igoroTis
movements, the Indians at the edge of the swamp fell
back within their fort. To dislodge them was a danger-
ous undertaking, but Captain Sublette was detei mined to
make the efibrt. Finding the trappers generally disin-
clined to enter the thicket, he set the example, together
with Campbell, and thus induced some of the fi'ee trap-
pers, with their leader, Sinclair, to emulate his action.
However, the others took courage at this, and advanced
near the swamp, firing at random at their invisible foe,
who, having the advantage of being able to see them, in-
flicted some wounds on the party.
The few white "braves" who had resolved to enter the
swamp, made their wills as they went, feeling that they
were upon perilous business. Sublette, Campbell, and
Sinclair succeeded in penetrating the thicket without
alarming the enemy, and came at length to a more open
space from whence they could get a view of the fort.
From this they learned that the women and children had
retired to the mountains, and that the fort was a slight
affair, covered with buffalo robes and blankets to keep out
prying eyes. Moving slowly on, some slight accident
betrayed their vicinity, and the next moment a shot struck
Sinclair, wounding him mortally. He spoke to Campbell,
requesting to be taken to his brother. By this time some
>jf the men had come up, and he was given in charge to
SUBLETTE WOUNDED. — A FALSE ALARM.
115
be taTcen back to camp. Sublette then pressed forward,
and seeing an Indian looking through an aperture, aimed
at him with fatal effect. No sooner had he done so, and
pointed out the opening to Campbell, than he was struck
with a ball in the shoulder, which nearly prostrated him,
and turned him so faint that Campbell took him in his
arms and carried him, assisted by Meek, out of the swamp.
At the same time one of the men received a wound in the
head. The battle was now carried on with spirit, although
from the difficulty of approaching the fort, the firing was
very irregular.
The mountaineers who followed Sublette, took up their
station in the woods on one side of the fort, and the Nez
Perces, under Wyeth, on the opposite side, which acci-
dental arrangement, though it was fatal to many of the
Blackfeet in the fort, was also the occasion of loss to
themselves by the cross-fire. The whites being constantly
reinforced by fresh arrivals from the rendezvous, were
soon able to silence the guns of the enemy, but they were
not able to drive them from their fort, where they re-
mained silent and sullen after their ammunition was ex-
hausted.
Seeing that the women of the Nez Perces and Flat-
heads were gathering up sticks to set fiie to their breast-
work of logs, an old chief proclaimed in a loud voice
from within, the startling intelligence that there were
four hundred lodges of his people close at hand, who
would soon be there to avenge their deaths, should the
whites choose to reduce them to ashes. This harangue,
delivered in the usual high-flown style of Indian oratory,
either was not clearly understood, or was wrongly inter-
preted, and the impression got abroad that an attack was
being made on the great encampment. This intelligence
occasioned a diversion, and a division of forces ; for while
116
AN EMPTY FORT.
a sijall party was left to watch the fort, the rest galloped
in hot haste to the rescue of the main camp. When they
arrived, they found it had been a false alarm, but it was
too kite to return that night, and the several camps re-
mained where they were until the next day.
Meantime the trappers left to guard the fort remained
stationed within the wood all night, firmly believing they
had their enemy "corraled," as the horsemen of the
plains would say. On the return, in the morning, of their
comrades from the main camp, they advanced cautiously
up to the breastwork of logs, and behold ! not a buffalo
skin nor red blanket was to be seen ! Through the crevi-
ces among the logs was seen an empty fort. On making
this discovery there was much chagrin among the white
trappers, and much lamentation among the Indian allies,
who had abandoned the burning of the fort expressly to
save for themselves the fine blankets and other goods of
their hereditary foes.
From the reluctance displayed by the trappars, in the
beginning of the battle, to engage with the Indians while
under cover of the woods, it must not be inferred that
they were lacking in courage. They were too well in-
formed in Indian modes of warfare to venture recklessly
into the den of death, which a savage ambush was quite
sure to be. The very result which attended the impetu-
osity of their leaders, in the death of Sinclair and the
wounding of Captain Sublette, proved them not over
cautious.
On entering the fort, the dead bodies of ten Blackfeet
were found, besides others dead outside the fort, and over
thirty horses, some of which were recognized as those
stolen from Sublette's night camp on the other side of
the mountains, besides those abandoned by Fitzpatrick.
Doubtless the rascals had followed his trail to Pierre's
THE BLACKFOOT WOMAN.
117
Hole, not thinking, however, to come upon so large a
camp as they found at last. The savage garrison which
had so cunningly contrived to elude the guard set upon
them, carried off some of their wounded, and, perhaps, also
some of their dead ; for they acknowledged afterwards a
much larger loss than appeared at the time. Besides Sin-
clair, there were five other white men killed, one half-
breed, and seven Nez Perces. About the same number
of whites and their Indian allies were wounded.
An instance of female devotion is recorded by Bonne-
ville's historian as having occurred at this battle. On the
morning following it, as the whites were exploring the
thickets about the fort, they discovered a Blackfoot
woman leaning silent and motionless against a tree. Ac-
cording to Mr. Irving, whose fine feeling for the sex
would incline him to put faith in this bit of romance,
*' their surprise at her lingering here alone, to fall into the
hands of her enemies, was dispelled when they saw the
corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she was so lost in
grief as not to perceive their approach, or a proud spirit
kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell
on discovering her, and before the trappers could inter-
fere, her mangled body fell upon the corpse which she had
refused to abandon." This version is true in the main in-
cidents, but untrue in the sentiment. The woman's leg
had been broken by a ball, and she was unable to move
from the spot where she leaned. When the trappers ap-
proached her, she stretched out her hands supplicatingly,
crying out in a wailing voice, " kill me ! kill me ! 0 white
men, kill me ! " — but this the trappers had no disposition
to do. "While she was entreating them, and they refusing,
a ball from some vengeful Nez Perce or Flathead put an
end to her sufferings.
Still remembering the threats of the Blackfoot chief,
w—
4
M
118
AN EXPECTED BATTLE.
that four hundred lodges of his bretliren were advancing
on the valley, all the companies returned to rendezvous,
and remained for several days, to see whether an attack
should take place. But if there had ever been any such
intention on the part of the Blackfoot nation, the timely
lesson bestowed on their advance guard had warned them
to quit the neighborhood of the wnites.
Captain Sublette's wound was dressed by Mr. Wyeth's
physician, and although it hindered his departure for St.
Louis for some time, it did not prevent his making his
usual journey later in the season. It was as well, per-
haps, that he did not set out earlier, for of a party of
seven who started for St. Louis a few days after the battle,
three were killed in Jackson's Hole, where they fell in
with the four hundred, warriors with whom the Blackfoot
chief threatened the whites at the battle of Pierre's Hole.
From the story of the four survivors who escaped and re-
turned to camp, there could no longer be any doubt that
the big village of the Blackfeet had actually been upon
the trail of Capt. Sublette, expecting an easy victory
when they should overtake him. How they were disap-
pointed by the reception met with by the advance camp,
has already been related.
n
CHAPTER VII.
1832. On the 23d of July, Milton Sublette's brigade
and the company of Mr. Wyeth again set out for the
southwest, and met no more serious interruptions while
they traveled in company. On the head-waters of the
Humboldt River they separated, Wyeth proceeding north
to the Columbia, and Sublette continuing on into a coun-
try hitherto untraversed by American trappers.
It was the custom of a camp on the move to depend
chiefly on the men employed' as huntei*s to supply them
with game, the sole support of the mountaineers. When
this failed, the stock on hand was soon exhausted, and the
men reduced to famine. This was what happened to
Sublette's company in the country where they now found
themselves, between the Owyhee and Humboldt Rivers.
Owing to the arid and barren nature of these plains, the
largest game to be found was the beaver, whose flesh
proved to be poisonous, from the creature having eaten
of the wild parsnip in the absence of its favorite food.
The men were made ill by eating of beaver flesh, and the
horses were greatly reduced from the scarcity of grass
and the entire absence of the cotton-wood.
In this plight Sublette found himself, and finally re-
solved to turn north, in the hope of coming upon some
better and more hospitable country. The sufferings of
the ihen now became terrible, both from hunger and
thirst. In the effort to appease the former, everything^
was eaten that could be eaten, and many things at which.
'W,:i i •'I
120 TERRIBLE SUFFERING FROM HUNGER AND THIRST.
im
m Jilt-
1 i
I 41
the well-fed man would sicken with disgust. " I have,"
says Joe Meek, "held my hands in an ant-hill until they
were covered with the ants, then greedily licked them off.
I have taken the soles off my moccasins, crisped them in
the fire, and eaten thcni. In our extremity, the large
black crickets which are found in this country were con-
sidered game. We used to take a kettle of hot water,
catch the crickets and throw them in, and when they
stopped kicking, eat them. That was not what we called
cant tickup ho hanch^ (good meat, my friend), but it kept
us alive."
Equally abhorrent expedients were resorted to in order
to quench thirst, some of which would not bear mention.
In this condition, and exposed to the burning suns and
the dry air of the desert, the men now so nearly exhausted
begaD to prey upon their almost equally exhausted ani-
mals. At night when they made their camp, by mutual
consent a mule was bled, and a soup made from its blood.
About a pint was usually taken, when two or three would
mess together upon this v.-viving, but scanty and not very
palatable dish. But ihi's mode of subsistence could not
be long depended on, p?? i.h^ poor mules could ill afifordto
lose blood in their famishing state ; nor could the men af-
ford to lose their m.ules where there was a chance of life :
therefore hungry as they were, the men were cautious in
this matter ; and it generally caused a quarrel when a man's
mule was selected for bleeding by the others.
A few times a mule had been sacrificed to obtain meat;
and in this case the poorest one was always selected, so as
to economise the chances for life for the whole band. In
this extremity, after four days of almost total abstinence
and several weeks of famine, the company reached the
Snake River, about fifty miles above the fishing falls, where
it boils and dashes over the rocks, forming very strong
THE COUNTRY OF TUB DiaOEBS.
121
rapids. Here the company camped, rejoiced at the sight
of the pure mountain water, but still in want of food.
During the march a horse's back had become sore from
some cause ; probably, his rider thought, because the sad-
dle did not set well ; and, although that particular animal
wjus Holected to be sacrificed on the morrow, as one that
could best be spared, he set about taking the stuffing out
of his saddle and re-arranging the padding. While en-
gaged in this considerate labor, he uttered a cry of delight
and held up to view a large brass pin, which had acciden-
tally got into the stuffing, when the saddle was made, and
had been the cause of all the mischief to his horse.
The same thought struck all who saw the pin : it was
soon converted into a fish-hook, a line was spun from horse-
hair, and in a short time there were trout enough caught
to furnish them a hearty and a most delicious repast. " In
the morning," says Meek, "we went on our way rejoicing;"
each man with the "five fishes" tied to his saddle, if with-
out any "loaves." This was the end of their severest suf-
fering, as they had now reached a country where absolute
starvation was not the normal condition of the inhabitants ;
and which was growing more and more bountiful, as they
neared the Rocky Mountains, where they at length joined
camp, not having made a very profitable expedition.
It may seem incredible to the reader that any country
so poor as that in which our trappers starved could have
native inhabitants. Yet such was the fact ; and the peo-
ple who lived in and who still inhabit this barren waste,
were called Diggers^ from their mode of obtaining their
food — a few edible roots growing in low grounds, or marshy
places. When these fail them they subsist as did our trap-
pers, by hunting crickets and field mice.
Nothing can be more abject than the appearance of the
Digger Indian, in the fall, as he roams about, without food
Tfl
122
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE DI«QERS
".fl
and witliGut weapons, save perhaps, a bow and arrows,
with his eyes fixed upon the ground, looking for crickets!
So despicable is he, that he has neither enemies nor friends;
and the neighboring tribes do not condescend to notice his
existence, unless indeed he should come in their way,
when they would not think it more than a mirthful act to
put an end to his miserable existence. And so it must be
confessed the trappers regarded him. When Sublette's
party first struck the Humboldt, Wyeth's being still with
them, Joe Meek one day shot a Digger who was prowling
about a stream where his traps were set.
" Why did you shoot him ? " asked Wyeth.
" To keep him from stealing traps."
" Had he stolen any ? "
" Nc : but he looked as if he was going to/^^
This recklessness of life very properly distressed the just
minded New Englander. Yet 't was hard for the trappers
to draw lines of distinction so nice as his. If a tribe was
not known to be friendly, it was a rule of necessity to con-
sider it unfiriendly. The abjectness and cowardice of the
Diggers was the fruit of their own helpless condition. That
they had the savage instinct, held in check only by cir-
cumstances, was demonstrated about the same time that
Meek shot oae, by his being pursued by four of them when
out trapping alone, and only escaping at last by the assis-
tance of one of his comrades who came to the rescue.
They could not fight, like the Crows ana Blackfeet, but
they could steal and murder, when they had a safe oppor-
tunity.
It would be an interesting study, no doubt, to the phi-
lanthropist, to ascertain in how great a degree the habits,
manners, and morals of a people are governed by their
resources, especially by the quality and quantity of their
M\.'
COMPARISON OF TRIBES.
123
diet. But when diet and climate are both taken into con-
sideration, the result is striking.
The character of the Blackfeet who inhabited the good
hunting grounds on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains,
is already pretty well given. They were tall, sinewy, well-
made fellows; good horsemen, and good fighters, though
inclined to marauding and murdering. They dressed com-
fortably and even handsomely, as dress gois amongst sava-
ges, and altogether were more to be feared than despised.
The Crows resembled the Blackfeet, 'yhose enemies they
were, in all the before-mentioned vraits, but were if pos-
sible, even more predatory in their habits. Unlike the
Blackfeet, however, they were not the enemies of all
mankind ; and even were disposed to cultivate some friend-
liness with the white traders and trappers, in order, luj
they acknowledged, to strengtheu their own hands
against the Blackfeet. They too inhabited a good co m-
try, full of game, and had horses in abundance. These
were the mountain tribes.
Comparing these with the .coast tribes, there was a strik-
ing difference. The natives of the Columbia were not a
tall and robust people, like those east of the Rocky Moun-
tains, who lived by hunting. Their height rarely exceeded
five feet six inches ; their forms were good, rather inclin-
ing to fatness, their faces round, features coarse, but
complexion light, and their eyes large and intelligent.
The custom of flattening their heads in infancy gave them
a grotesque and unnatural appearance, otherwise they
could not be called ill-looking. On the first advent of
white men among them, they were accustomed to go en-
tirely naked, except in winter, when a panther skin, or a
mantle of other skins sewed together, served to protect
them from the cold : or if the weather was rainy, as it
generally was in that milder- climate, a long mantle of rush
Pfr^
124
THE INDIANS OF THE LOWER COLUMBIA.
mats, like tbs toga of the ancient Romans, took the place
of that made of skins. To this was added a conical hat,
woven of fibrous roots, and gaily painted.
For defensive armor they wero provided with a tunic
of elkskin double, descending to the ankles, with holen in
it for the arms, and quite impenetrable to arrows. A hel-
met of similar material covered the head, rendering tliu-'
like Achilles, invulnerable except in the heels. In th;j
secure dress they went to battle in their canoes, notice
being first given to the enemy of the intended attack.
Their battles might therefore be termed compound duels,
in which each party observed great punctiliousness and
decorum. Painted and armor-encased, the warriors in two
flotillas of canons were rowed to the battle ground by
their women, when the battle raged furiously for some
time ; not, however, doing any great harm to either side.
If any one chanced to be killed, that side considered itself
beaten, and retired from the conflict to mourn over and
bury the estimable and departed brave. If the case was a
stubborn one, requiring several days fighting, the oppo-
nents encamped near each other, keeping up a "onfusion
oi" cries, taunts, menaces, and raillery, during the whole
night ; after which they resumed the conflict, and contin-
ued it until one was beaten. If a village was to be at-
tacked, notice being received, the women and children
were removed; and if the village was beaten they ««^e
presents to their conquerors. Such were tha do^^^i 6
habits of th5 warriors of the lower Columbia.
These were the people who lived almost exclusively by
fishing, and whose climate was a mild and moist one. Fish-
ing, in which both sexes engaged about equally, w ^? au im-
portant accomplishment, gince it was by i\sh ther ' ! -d in
this world ; and by being good fishermen that they had .lopes
of the next one. The houses in which they lived, instead
I
THEIR HABITS, CUSTOMS AND DRESS.
125
of being lodges made of buffalo skins, were of a large
size and very well constructed, being made out of cedar
planks. An excavation was first made in the earth two or
three feet deep, probably to secure greater warmth in
winter. A double row of cedar posts was then planted
firui!^ Jl round the excavation, and between these the
planks were laid, or, sometiries cedar bark, so overlapped
as to exclude the rain and wind. The ridge-pole of the
roof was supported ou a row of taller posts, passing
through the centre of the building, and notched to receive
it. The rafters were then covered with planks or bark,
fastened down with ropes made of the fibre of the jedar
bark. A house made in this manner, and often a hundred
feet long by thirty or forty wide, accommodated several
families, who each had their separate entrance and fire-
place ; the entrance being by a low oval-shaped door, and
a '31ght of steps.
T he canoes of these people were each cut out of a single
1 .; yf cedar ; and were often thirty feel long and five
::.'» it midships. They were gaily painted, and their
sha^ :, 'Rs handsome, with a very long bow so constructed
as to cut the surf in landing with Ibe greatest ';ase, or the
more readily to go through a rough sea. The oars were
about five feet long, and bent in the sha,pe jf a crescent ;
which shapt nabled them to drpw^ them edgewise through
the water with little or no noise — this noiselessness being
an important quality in hunting the sea otter, which is
ilways caught sleeping on the rocks.
'-hi single instrument which sufficed to build canoes
and houses was the chisel ; generally being a piece of old
iron obtained from some vessel and fixed .in a wooden
handle. A stone mallet aided them in using the chisel ;
and with this simple "kit" of tools they contrived to
manufacture plates, bowls, carved oars, and many ornBr
mental thinga
r-, " I I — r
126
INDIAN COMMERCE.
T-*>!i
Like the men of all savage nations, they made slaves of
their captives, and their women. The dress of the latter
€onsisted merely of a short petticoat, manufactured from
the fibrf of the cedar bark, previously soaked and pre-
pared, i n terial was worked into a fringe, attached
to a girdle, c only long enough to reach the middle of
the thigh. When the season required it, they added a
mantle of skins. Their bodies were anointed with fish-oil,
and sometimes painted with red ochre in imitation of the
men. For ornaments they v/ore strings of glass beads,
and also of a white shell found on the northern coast, called
haiqua. Such were the ChinooJcs, who lived upon the
coast.
Farther up the river, on the eastern side of the Cascade
range of mountains, a people lived, the.same, yet different
from the Chinooks. They resembled them in form, fea-
tures, and manner of getting a living. But they were
more warlike and more enterprising ; they even had some
notions of commerce, being traders between the coast
Indians and those to the east of them. They too were
great fishermen, but used the net instead of fishing in
boats. Great scaffoldings were erected every year at the
narrows of the Columbia, known as the Dalles, where, as
the salmon passed up the river in the spring, in incredible
numbers, they were caught and dried. After drying, the
fish were then pounded fine between two stones, pressed
tightly into packages or bales of about a hundred pounds,
covered with matting, and corded up for transportation.
The bales were then placed in storehouses built to receive
them, where they awaited customers.
By and by there came from the coast other Indians,
with different varieties of fish, to exchange for the salmon
in the Wish-ram warehouses. And by and by there came
from the plains to the eastward, others who h^d horses^
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS,
127
camas-root, bear-grass, fur robes, and whatever constituted
the wealth of the mountains and plains, to exchange for
the rich and nutritious salmon of the Columbia. These
Wish-ram Indians were sharp traders, and usually made
something by their exchanges; so that they grew rich
and insolent, and it was dangerous for the unwary
stranger to pass their way. Of all the tribes of the Co-
lumbia, they perpetrated the most outrages upon their
neighbors, the passing traveler, and the stranger within
their gates.
Still farther to the east, on the great 'grassy plains, wa-
tered by beautiful streams, coming down from the moun-
tains, lived the Cayuses, Yakimas, Nez Perces, Wallah-
Wallahs, and Flatheads ; as different in their appearance
and habits as their different modes of living would nat-
urally make them. Instead of having many canoes, they
had many horses ; and in place of drawing the fishing net,
or trolling lazily along with hook and line, or spearing
fish from a canoe, they rode pell-mell to the chase, or sal-
lied out to battle with the hostile Blackfeet, whose country
lay between them and the good hunting-grounds, where
the great herds of buffalo were. Being Nimrods by na-
ture, they were dressed in complete suits of skins, instead
of going naked, like their brethren in the lower country.
Being wandering and pastoral in their habits, they lived
in lodges, which could be planted every night and raised
every morning.
Their women, too, were good riders, and comfortably
clad in dressed skins, kept white with chalk. So wealthy
were some of the chiefs that they could count their fifteen
hundred head of horses grazing on their grassy uplands.
Horse-racing was their delight, and betting on them their
besetting vice. For bridles they used horse-hair cords,
attached around the animal's mouth. This was sufficient
9
128
THE HORSES OF TlIK PLAINS.
to check him, and by laying a hand on this side or that of
the horse's neck, the rider could wheel him in either direc-
tion. The simple and easy-fitting saddle was a stuffed
deer-skin, with stirrups of wood, resembling in shape those
used by the Mexicans, and covered with deer-skin sewed
on wet, so as to tighten in drying. The saddles of the
women were furnished with a pair of deer's antlers for the
pommel.
In many things their customs and accoutrements resem-
bled those of the Mexicans, from whom, no doubt, they
were borrowed. Like the Mexican, they threw the lasso
to catch the wild horse. Their horses, too, were of Mex-
ican stock, and many of them bore the brand of that
country, having been obtained in some of their not infre-
quent journeys into California and New Mexico.
As all the wild horses of America are said to have
sprung from a small band, turned loose upon the plains
by Cortez, it would be interesting to know at what time
they came to be used by the northern Indians, or whether
the horse and the Indian did not emigrate together. If the
horse came to the Indian, great must have been the change
effected by the advent of this new element in the savage's
life. It is impossible to conceive, however, that the In-
dian ever could have lived on these immense plains, barren
of everything but wild grass, without his horse. With
him he does well enough, for he not only "lives on horse-
back," by which means he can quickly reach a country
abounding in game, but he literally lives on horse-flesh,
when other game is scarce ;,
Curious as the fact may seem, the Indians at th3 irouth
of the Columbia and those of New Mexico speak languages
similar in construction to that of the Aztecs; and from
this fact, and the others before mentioned, it may be very
fairly inferred that difference of circumstances and locali-
ties have made of the different tribes what they are.
THE INDIAN S MORAL NATURE.
129
As to the Indian's moral nature, that is pretty much alike
everywhere nnd with some rare exceptions, the rarest of
which is, peiiiaps, the Flathead and ^ez Perces nations,
all are cruel, thieving, and treacherous. The Indian gos-
pel is literally the "gospel of blood"; an "eye for an
eye, and a tooth for a tooth." Vengeance is as much a
commandment to him as any part of the decalogue is to
the Christian. But we have digressed far from our narra-
tive ; and as it will be necessary to refer to the subject of
the moral code of savages further on in our narrative, we
leave it for the present.
After the iLcident of the pin and the fishes, Sublette's
party kept on to the north, coursing along up Payette's
River to Payette Lake, where he camped, and the men
went out trapping. A party of four, consisting of Meek,
Antoine Godin, Louis Leaugar, and Small, proceeded to the
north as far as the Salmon river and beyond, to the head
of one of its tributaries, where the present city of Flor-
ence is located. While camped in this region, three of
the men went out one day to look for their horses, which
had strayed away, or been stolen by the Indians. During
their absence. Meek, who remained in camp, had killed a
fine fat deer, and was cooking a portion of it, when he
saw a band of about a hundred Indians approaching, and
so near were they that flight was almost certainly useless ;
yet as a hundred against one was very great odds, and
running away from them would not increase their number,
while it gave him something to do in his own defence, he
took to his heels and ran as only a mountain-man can run.
Instead, however, of pursuing him, the practical-minded
braves set about finishing his cooking for him, and soon
had the whole deer roasting before the fire.
This procedure provoked the gastronomic ire of our
trapper, and after watching them for some time from his
'4 a
130
A TRAP SET FOR A RIVAL.
hiding-place, he determined to retm-n and share the feast.
On reaching camp again, and introducing himself to his
not over-scrupulous .visitors, he found they were from the
Nez Perces tribe inhabiting that region, who, having been
so rude as to devour his stock of provisions, invited him
to accompany them to their village, not a great way off,
where they would make some return for his involuntary
hospitality. This he did, and there found his three com.
rades and all their horses. While still visiting at the Nez
Perces village, they were joined by the remaining portion
of Sublette's command, when th^ whole company started
south again. Passing Payette's lake to the east, traversing
the Boise Basin, going to the head-waters of that river,
thence to the Malade, thence to Godin's river, and finally
to the forks of the Salmon, where they found the main
camp. Captain Bonneville, of whose three years wander-
ings in the wilderness Mr. Irving has given a full and in"
teresting account, was encamped in the same neighbor-
hood, and had built there a small lort or trading-house,
and finally wintered in the neighborhood.
An exchange of men now took place, and Meek went
east of the mountains under Fitzpatrick and Bridger.
When these famous leaders had first set out for the sum-
mer hunt, after the battle of Pierre's Hole, their course
had been to the head-waters of the Missouri, to the Yel-
lowstone lake, and the forks of the Missouri, some of the
best beaver grounds known to them. But finding their
steps dogged by the American Fur Company, and not
wishing to be made use of as pilots by their rivals, thej
had flitted about for a time like an Arab camp, in the en-
deavor to blind them, and finally returned to the west side
of the mountains, where Meek fell in with them.
Exasperated by the perseverance of the American
Company, they had come to the determinatior of leading
A CRUEL DEVICE.
131
them a march which should tire them of the practice of
keeping at their heels. They therefore planned an expe-
dition, from which they expected no other profit than that
of shaking off their rivals. Taking no pains to conceal
their expedition, they rather held out the bait to the
American Company, who, unsuspicious of their • purpose,
took it readily enough. They le ^. them along across the
mountains, and on to the head-waters of the Missouri.
Here, packing up their traps, they tarried not for beaver,
nor even tried to avoid the Blackfeet, but pushed right
ahead, into the very heart of their country, keeping away
from any part of it where beaver might be found, and
going away on beyond, to the elevated plains, quite des-
titute of that small but desirable game, but followed
through it by their rivals.
However justifiable on the part of trade this move-
ment of the Rocky Mountain Company might have been,
it was a cruel device as concerned the inexperienced lead-
ers of the other company, one of whom lost his life in
consequence. Not knowing of their danger, they only
discovered their situation in the midst of Blackfeet,
after discovering the ruse that had been played upon
them. They then halted, and being determined to find
beaver, divided their forces and set out in opposite direc-
tions for that purpose. Unhappily, Major Vanderburg
took the worst possible direction for a small party to take,
and had not traveled far when his scouts came upon the
still smoking camp-fires of a band of Indians who were
returning from a buffalo hunt. From the "signs" left
behind them, .the scout judged that they had become
aware of the near neighborhood of white men, and from
their having stolen off, he judged that they were only
gone for others of their nation, or to prepare for war.
But Vanderburg, with the fool-hardiness of one not
132
AN AJiBUSH — DEATH OF VANDEUBUIIG.
"up to Blackfeet," determined to ascertain for himself
what there was to fear ; and taking with him half a score
of his followers, put himself upon their trail, galloping
hard after them, until, in his rashness, he found himself
being led through a dark and deep defile, rendered darker
and gloomier by overhanging trees. In the midst of this
dismal place, just where an ambush might have been ex-
pected, he was attacked by a horde of savages, who
rushed upon his little party with whoops and frantic ges-
tures, intended not only to appal the riders, but to frighten
their horses, and thus make surer their bloody butchery.
It was but the work of a few minutes to consummate their
demoniac purpose. Vanderburg's horse was shot down
at once, falling on his rider, whom the Indians quickly
dispatched. One or two of the men were instantly toma-
hawked, and the others wounded while making their es-
cape to camp. The remainder of Vanderburg's company,
on learning the fate of their leader, whose place there
was no one to fill, immediately raised camp and fled with
all haste to the encampment of the Pends Oreille Indians
for assistance. Here they waited, while those Indians, a
fiiendly tribe, made an effort to recover the body of their
unfortunate leader ; but the remains were never recovered,
probably having first been fiendishly mutilated, and then
left to the wolves.
Fitzpatrick and Bridger, finding they were no longer
pursued by their rivals, as the season advanced began to
retrace their steps toward the good trapping grounds.
Being used to Indian wiles and Blackfeet maraudings and
ambushes, they traveled in close columns, and never
camped or turned out their horses to feed, without the
greatest caution. Morning and evening scouts were sent
out to beat up every thicket or ravine that seemed to
offer concealment to a foe, and the horizon was searched
.1
in eve
comple
a pera
never 1
It wi
througl
with th
of the
includii
bend'oi
a good
who W€
the traj
ment oi
occasioi
straggle
came u]
pars to
the Ind
had be(
This oc(
with su]
Inth(
into the
also ad\
the pon
young I
as inter]
amity;
the chie
fi Hi^Kli ■ his rifle.
lim^Sir ■ chief, a
turned i
discharg
.^ ■■iMEHHi'f ■
I*'
:
AN AFFRAY — THE WOMAN INTEHPHETER.
133
in every direction for signs of an Indian attack. The
complete safety of the camp being settled almost beyond
a peradventure, the horses were turned loose, though
never left unguarded.
It was not likely, however, that the camp should pass
through the Blackfoot country without any encounters
with that nation. When it had reached the head-waters
of the Missouri, on the return march, a party of trappers,
including Meek, discovered a small band of Indians in a
bend'of the lake, and thinking the opportuiuty for sport
a good one, commenced firing on them. The Indians,
Avho were without guns, took to the lake for refuge, while
the trappers entertained themselves with the rare amuse-
ment of keeping them in the water, by shooting at them
occasionally. But it chanced that these were only a few
stragglers from the main Blackfoot camp, which soon
came up and put an end to the sport by putting the trap-
pers to flight in their turn. The trappers fled to camp,
the Indians pursuing, until the latter discovered that they
had been led almost into the large camp of the whites.
This occasioned a halt, the Blackfeet not caring to engage
with superior numbers.
In the pause which ensued, one of the chiefs came out
into the open space, bearing the peace-pipe, and Bridger
also advanced to meet him, but carrying his gun across
tho pommel of his saddle. He was accompanied by a
young Blackfoot woman, wife of a Mexican in his service,
as interpreter. The chief extended his hand in token of
amity ; but at that moment Bridger saw a movement of
the chiefs, which he took to mean treachery, and cocked
his rifle. But the lock had no sooner clicked than the
chief, a large and powerful man, seized the gun and
turned the muzzle downward, when the contents were
discharged into the earth. With another dexterous move-
yrr^'^Y^T
134
BRAVERY OF HER HUSBAND — HAPPY FINALE.
ment ho wrested it from Bridger's hand, and struck him
with it, felling him to the ground. In an instant all was
confu£
ion.
The noise of whoops,
yells, of fire-arms, and
of running hither and thither, gathered like a tempest.
At the first burst of this demoniac blast, the horse of the
interpreter became frightened, and, by a sudden move-
ment, unhorsed her, wheeling and running back to camp.
In the melee which now ensued, the woman was carried
off by the Blackfeet, and Bridger was wounded twice in
the back with arrows. A chance medley fight now ensued,
continuing urtll night put a period to the contest. So
well matched were the opposing forces, that each fought
with caution firing from the cover of thickets and from
behind rockt^, neither side doing much execution. The
loss on the part of the Blackfect was nine warriors, and
on that of the whites, three men and six horses.
As for the young Blackfoot woman, tvhose people re-
tained her a prisoner, her lamentations and struggles to
escape and return to her husband and child so wrought
upon the young Mexican, who was the pained witness of
her grief, that he took the bal)e in his arms, and galloped
with it into the heart of the Blackfoot camp, to place it
in the arms of the distracted mother. This daring act,
which all who witr^essed believed would cause his death,
80 excited the aamiration of the Blackfoot chief, that he
gave him permission to return, uiharmed, to his own
camp. ^Encouraged by this clemency, Loretta begged to
have his wife restored to him, relating how he had res-
<"ued her, a prisoner, from the Crows, who would certainly
have tortured her to death. The wife added her entreat-
ies to his, but the chief sternly bade him depart, and as
sternly reminded the Blackfoot girl thet zlio. belonged to
his tribe, and could aot go with his enemies. Loretta
,1
THE MOUNTAIN LAMB AND HER CHILD.
135
was therefore compelled to abandon his wife and child,,
and return to camp.
It is, however, gratifying to know that so true an in-
stance of aflFection in savage life was finally rewarded ;
and that when the two rival fur companies united, as they
did in the following year, Loretta was permitted to go-
to the American Company's fort on the Missouri, in the
Blackfoot country, where he was employed as interpreter,
assisted by his Blackfoot wife.
Such were some of the incidents that signalized this
campaign in the wilderness, where two equally persistent
rivelt^ were trying to outwit one another. Subsequently,
when several years of rivalry had somewh&t exhausted
both, the Rocky Mountain and American companies con-
solidated, using all their strategy thereafter against the
Hudson's Bay Company, and any new rival that chanced
to enter their hunting grounds.
After the fight above described, the Blackfeet drew off
in the night, showing no disposition to try their skill next
day against such experienced Indian fighters as Bridger's
brigade had shov/n themselves. The company continued
in the Missouri country, trapping and taking j, my beaver,
until it reached the Beaver Kead Valley. :m the head-
waters of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. Here the
lateness of the season compelled a return to winter-quar-
ters, and by Christmas all the w^ndererft were gathered
into camp at the forky of the Snake River.
1833. In the latter part of January it became neces-
sary to move to the junction of the Portneuf to subsist
the animals. The main body of the camp had gone on
in advance, while some few, with pack hoi-ses, or women
with chiluiJ^n, were scattered along the trail. Meek, with
five others, had been left behind to gather up some horses
that had strayed. When about a half day's journey from
136
INTENSE COLD NORTHERN LIGHTg.
1 r.
camp, he overtook Umentucken, the Mountain Lamb, now
the wife of Milton Sublette, with her child, on horsobacl?.
The weather was terribly cold, and seeming tD grow
oolder. The naked plains afforded no shelter from the
piercing winds, and the air fairly glittered with frost.
Poor Umentucken was freezing, but more troubled about
her babe than herself. The camp was far ahead, with all
the extra blankets, and the prospect was imminent that
they would perish. Our gallant trapper had thought
himself very cold until this moment, but what were his
sufferings compared to those of the Mountain Lamb and
her little Lambkin ? Without an instant^s hesitation, he
divested himself of his blanket capote, which he wrapped
round the mother and child, and urged her to hasten to
camp. For himself, he could not hasten, as he had the
horses in charge, but all that fearful afternoon rode naked
above the waist, exposed to the wind, and the fine, dry,
icy hail, which filled the air as with diamond needles, to
pierce the skin ; and, probably, to the fact that the hail
was so stinging, was owing the fact that his blood did not
congeal.
"0 what a day was. that!" said Meek to the writer;
*'why, the air war thick with fine, sharp hail, and the sun
shining, too ! not one sun only, but three suns — there
"were three suns ! And when night came on, the northern
lights blazed up the sky ! It was the most beautiful sight
I ever saw. That is the country for northern lights ! "
When some surprise was expressed that he should have
been obliged to expose his naked skin to the weather, in
order to save Umentucken — "In the mountains," he an-
swered, "we do not have many garments. Buckskin
breeches, a blanket capote", and a beaver skin cap makes
up our rig."
SCARCITY OF FUEL — THREATENED BY FAMINE.
13^
"You do not need a laundress, then? Bi't with such
clothing how could you keep free of vermin ? "
" We didn't always do that. Do you want to know
how we got rid of lice in the mountains ? We just took
off our clothes and laid them on an ant-hill, and you
ought to see how the ants would carry off the lice ! "
But to return t'^ our hero, frozen, or nearly so. When
he reached camp at night, so desperate was his condition
that the men had to roll him and rub him in the snow for
some time before allowing him to approach the fire. But
Umentucken was saved, and he became heroic in her eyes.
Whether it was the glory acquired by the gallant act just
recorded, or whether our hero had now arrived at an age
when the tender passion has strongest swny, the writer is
unprepared to affirm : for your mounta man is shy of
revealing his past gallantries ; but from this iime on, there
are evidences of considerable susceptibility to the ..uarms
of the dusky beauties of the mountains and the plains.
The cold of this winter was very severe, insomuch that
men and mules w^re frozen to death. " The frost," says
Meek, " used to hang from the roofs of our lodges in the
morning, on first waking, in skeins two feet long, and our
blankets and whiskers were white with it. But we trap-
pers laid still, and called the camp-keepers to make a fire,
and in our close lodges it was soon warm enough.
" The Indians suffered very much. Fuel war scarce on
the Snake River, and but little fire could be afforded —
just sufficient for the children and their mothers to get
warm by, for the fire was fed only with buffalo fat torn in
strips, which blazed up quickly and did not last long.
Many a time I have stood off, looking at the fire, but not
venturing to approach, when a chief would say, ' Are you
cold, my friend ? come to the fire ' — so kind are these
Nez Perces and Flatheads."
138
THE DEN OP GRIZZLTS— "UTNAM OUTDONE.
The cold was not the only enemy in camp that winter,
but famine threatened them. The buffalo had been early
driven east of the mountains, and other game was scarce.
Sometimes a party of hunters were absent for days, even
weeks, without finding more game than would subsist
themselves. As the trappers were all hunters in the win-
ter, it frequently happened that Meek and one or more
of his associates went on a hunt in company, for the bene-
fit of the camp, which was very hungry at times.
On one of these hunting expeditions that winter, the
party consisting of Meek, Hawkins, Doughty, and Antome
Claymore, they had been out nearly a fortnight without
killing anything of consequence, and had clambered up
tl^e side of the mountains on the frozen snow, in hopes of
finding some mountain sheep. As they traveled along
under a projecting ledge of rocks, they came to a place
where there were the impressions in the snow of enor-
mous grizzly bear feet. Close by was an opening in the
rocks, revealing a cavern, and to this the tracks in the
snow conducted. Evidently the creature had come out
of its winter den, and madi^ just one circuit back again.
At these signs of game the hunters hesitated — certain it
was there, but doubtful how to obtain it.
At length Doughty proposed tc get upon the rocks
above the mouth of the cavern and shoot the bear as he
cam3 out, if somebody would go in and dislodge him.
" I'm your man," answered Meek.
"And I too," said Claymore.
" I'll be if we are not as brave as you are," said
Hawkins, as he prepared to follow.
On entering the cave, which was sixteen or twenty feet
square, and high enough to stand erect in, instead of one,
three bears were discovered. They were standing, the
largest one in the middle, with their eyes staring at the
SECOND DANIELS.
139
entrance, but quite quiet, greeting the hunters only with
a low growl. Finding that there was a bear apiece to be
disposed of, the hunters kept close to the wall, and out of
the stream of light from the entrance, while they ad-
vanced a little way, cautiously, towards their game, which,
however, seemed to take no notice of them. After ma-
neuvering a few minutes to get nearer. Meek finally struck
the large bear on the head with his wipiug-stick, when it
immediately moved off and ran out of the cave. As it
came out, Doughty shot, but only wounded it, and it
came rushing back, snorting, and running around in a
circle, till the well directed shots from all three killed it
on the spot. Two more bears now remained to be dis-
posed of
The successful shot put Hawkins in high spirits. He
began to hallo and laugh, dancing around, and with the
others striking the next largest bear to make him run out,
which he soon did, and was shot by Doughty. By this
time their guns were reloaded, the men growing more
and more elated, and Hawkins declaring they were " all
Daniels in the lions' den, and no mistake." This, and
similar expressions, he constantly vociferated, while they
drove out the third and smallest bear. As it reached the
cave's mouth, three simultaneous shots put an end to the
last one, when Hawkins' excitement knew -no bounds.
"Daniel was a humbug," said he. "Daniel in the liens'
den ! Of course it was winter, and the lions were sucking
their paws! Tell me no more of Daniel's exploits. We
are as good Daniel^ as he ever dared to be. Hurrah for
these Daniels ! " With these expressions, and playing
many antics by way of rejoicing, the delighted Hawkins
finally danced himself out of his "lion's den," and set to
work with the others to prepare for a return to camp.
Sleds were soon constructed out of the branches of the
rrfimipT
Iri! i :
140
THE RETURN TO CAMP.
mountain willow, and on these light vehicles the fortunate
find of bear meat was soon conveyed to the hungry camp
in the plain below. And ever after this singular exploit
of the party, Hawkins continued to aver, in language
more strong than elegant, that the Scripture Daniel was a
humbug compared to himself, and Meek, and Claymore.
■ I-, ! i, • < '
• ! ;;! '
S
"1 ''
V, i
CHAPTER VIII,
1833. In the spring the camp was visited by a party
of twenty Blackfeet^ who drove oflf most of the horses ;
and among the stolen ones, Bridger's favorite race-horse,
Grohean, a Camanche steed of great speed and endurance.
To retake the horses, and if possible punish the thieves,
a company of the gamest trappers, thirty in number, in-
cluding Meek, and Kit ^ ~"on, who not long before had
joined the Rocky Mouui i* Company, was dispatched on
their trail. They had not traveled long before they came
up with the Blackfeet, but the horses were nowhere to be
seen, having been secreted, after the manner of these thieves,
in some defile of the mountains, until the f irmish was
over which they knew well enough to anticipate. Accord-
ingly when the trappers came up, the wily savages were
prepared for them. Their numbers were 'inferior to that
of the whites ; accordingly they assumed an innocent and
peace-desiring air, while their head man advanced with the
inevitable peace-pipe, to have a "talk." But as their talk
was a tissue of lies, the trappers soon lost patience, and a
quarrel quickly arose. The Indians betook themselves to
the defences which were selected beforehand, and a fight
began, which without giving to either party the victory
of arms, ended in the killing of two or three of the Black-
feet, and the wounding very severely of Kit Carson.
The firing ceased with nightfall ; and when morning came,
as usual the Blackfeet were gone, and the trappers re-
turned to camp without their horses.
**?■
t
« Pi,
'it
I? ^
142
THE GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS.
The lost animals were soon replaced by purchase from
the Nez Perces., and the company divided up into brigades,
some destined for the country east of the mountains, and
others for the south aid west. In this year Meek rose a
grade above the hired trapper, and became one of the
order denominated skin trappers. These, like the hired
trappers, depend upon the company to furnish them an
outfit ; but do not receive regular wages, as do the others.
They trap for themselves, only agreeing to sell their bea-
ver to the company which furnishes the outfit, and to no
other. In this capacity, our Joe, and a few associates,
hunted this spring, in the Snake River and Salt Lake coun-
tries ; returning as usual to the annual rendezvous, which
was appointed this summer to meet on Green River. Here
were the Rocky Mountain and American Companies; the
St. Louis Company, under Capt. Wm. Sublette and his
friend Campbell ; the usual camp of Indian allies ; and, a
few miles distant, that of Captain Bonneville. In addition
to all these, was a small company belonging to Capt. Stuart,
an Englishman of noble family, who was traveling in the
far west only to gratify his own love of wild adventure,
and admiration of all that is grand and magnificent in na-
ture. With him was an artist named Miller, and several
servants ; but he usually traveled in company with one or
another of the fur companies; thus enjoying their protec-
tion, and at the same time gaining a knowledge of the
habits of mountain life.
The rendezvous, at this time, furnished him a striking
example of some of the ways of mountain-men, least to
their honorable fame ; and we fear we must confess that
our friend Joe Meek, who had been gathering laurels as a
valiant hunter and trapper during the three or four years
of his apprenticeship, was also becoming fitted, by firequent
practice, to graduate in so;me of the vices of camp lifov
A MAD • WOLF.
143
especially the one of conviviality during rendezvous. Had
he not given his permission, we should not perhaps have
said what he says of himself, that he was at such times of-
ten very "powerful drunk."
During the indulgence of these excesses, while at this
rendezvous, there occurred one of those incidents of wil-
derness life which make the blood creep with horror.
Twelve of the men were bitten by a mad wolf, which hung
about the camp for two or three nights. Two of these
were seized with madness in camp, sometime afterwards,
and ran off into the mountains, where they perished. One
was attacked by the paroxysm while on a hunt ; when,
throwing himself off' his horse, he struggled and foamed
at the mouth, gnashing his teeth, and barking like a wolf
Yet he retained consciousness "enough to warn away his
companions, who hastened in search of assistance ; but
when they returned he was nowhere to be found. It was
thought that he was seen a day or two afterwards, but no
one could come up with him, and of course, he too, per-
ished. Another died on his journey to St. Louis; and
several died at different times within the next two years.
At tfhe time, however, immediately following the visit
of the wolf to camp. Captain Stuart was admonishirxg
Meek on the folly of his ways, telling him that the wolf
might easily have bitten him, he was so drunk.
"It would have killed him, — sure, if it hadn't cured
him ! " said Meek, — alluding to the belief that alcohol is a
remedy for the poison of hydrophobia.
When sobriety returned, and work was once more to be
resumed. Meek returned with three or four associates to
the Salt Lake country, to trap on the numerous streams
that flow down from the mountains to the east of Salt Lake.
He had not been long in this region when he fell in on
Bear River with a company of Bonneville's men, one hun-
10
If'il
144
JO WALKER 8 CALIFORNIA EXPEDITION.
' <1 .'■ ill
dred and eighteen in number, under Jo Walker, who had
been sent to explore the Great Salt Lake, and the adja-
cent country ; to make charts, keep a journal, and, in short,
make a thorough discovery of all that region. Great ex-
pectations were cherished by the Captain concerning this
favorite expedition, which were, however, utterly blighted,
as his historian has recorded. The disappointment and loss
which Bonneville suffered from it, gave a tinge of preju-
dice to his delineations of the trapper's character. It was
true that they did not explore Salt Lake ; and that they
made a long and expensive journey, collecting but few
peltries. It is true also, that they caroused in true moun-
tain style, while among the Californians : but that the ex-
pedition was unprofitable was due chiefly to the difficul-
ties attending the exploration of a new country, a large
portion of which was desert and mountain.
But let us not anticipate. When Meek and his compan-
ions fell in with Jo Walker and his company, they resolved
to accompany the expedition ; for it was "a feather in a
man's cap," and made his services doubly valuable to have
become acquainted with a new country, and fitted himself
for a pilot.
On leaving Bear Hiver, where the hunters took the pre-
caution to lay in a store of dried meat, the company passed
down on the west side of Salt Lake, and found themselves
in the Salt Lake desert, where their store, insufficiently
large, soon became reduced to almost nothing. Here was
experienced again the sufferings to which Meek had once
before been subjected in the Digger country, which, in
fact, bounded this desert on the northwest. " There was,"
says Bonneville, " neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring,
nor pool, nor running stream ; nothing but parched wastes
of sand, where horse and rider were in danger of perish-
ing." Many au emigrant has since confirmed the truth of
this account.
INSTINCT OF THE MULE.
145
It could not be expected that men would continue on
in such a country, in that direction which offered no change
for the better. Discerning at last a snowy range to the
northwest, they traveled in that direction ; pinched with
famine, and with tongues swollen out of their mouths with
thirst. They came at last to a small stream, into which
both men and animals plunged to quench their raging
thirst.
The instinct of a mule on these desert journeys is some-
thing wonderful. We have heard it related by others be-
sides the mountain-men, that they will detect the neighbor-
hood of water long before their riders have discovered a
sign ; and setting up a gallop, when before they could
hardly walk, will dash into the water up to their necks,
drinking in the life-saving moisture through every pore of
the skin, while they prudently refrain from swallowing
much of it. If one of a company has been off on a hunt
for water, and on finding it has let his mule drink, when
he returns to camp, the other animals will gather about
it, and snuff its breath, and even its body, betraying
the liveliest interest and envy. It is easy to imagine that
in the case of Jo Walker's company, not only the animals
but the men were eager to steep themselves in the reviv-
ing waters of the first stream which they found on the
border of this weary desert.
It proved to be a tributary of Mary's or Ogden's River,
along which the company pursued their way, trapping as
they went, and living upon the flesh of the beaver. They
had now entered upon the same country inhabited by
Bigger Indians, in which Milton Sublette's brigade had so
nearly perished with famine the previous year. It was
unexplored, and the natives were as curious about the
movements of their white visitors, as Indians always are
on the first appeaxance of civilized men.
rr
m
146
MA8SACUE OP DIQGEUS AT MAUYB RIVEU.
They hung about the camps, offering no offences by day,
but contriving to do a great deal of thieving during the
night-time. Each day, for several days, their numbers
increased, until the army which dogged the trappers by
day, and filched from them at night, numbered nearly a
thousand. They had no guns; but carried clubs, and
some bows and arrows. The trappers at length became
uneasy at this accumulation of force, even though they
had no fire-arms, for was it not this very style of people,
armed with clubs, that attacked Smith's party on the
Umpqua, and killed all but four ?
"We must kill a lot of them, boys," said Jo Walker.
"It will never do to let that crowd get into camp." Ac-
cordingly, as the Indians crowded round at a ford of Mary's
River, always a favorite time of attack with the savages,
Walker gave the order to fire, and the whole company
poured a volley into the jostling crowd. The effect was
terrible. Seventy -five Diggers bit the dust; while the
others, seized with terror and horror at this new and instan-
taneous mode of death, fled howling away, the trappers
pursuing them until satisfied that they were too much
frightened to return. This seemed to Captain Bonneville,
when he came to hear of it, like an unnecessary and fero-
cious act. But Bonneville was not an experienced Indian
fighter. His views of their character were much governed
by his knowledge of the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; and
also by the immunity from harm he enjoyed among the
Shoshonies on the Snake River, where the Hudson's Bay
Company had brought them into subjection, and where
even two men might travel in safety at the time of his
residence in that country.
Walker's company continued on down to the main or
Humboldt River, trapping as they went, both for the furs,
and for something to eat j and expecting to find that the
CROSaiNG THE SIERRA NiiiVADAS.
U7
river whose course they were following through those bar-
ren plains, would lead them tc^ some more important river,
or to some large lake or inland sea. This was a country
entirely unknown, even to the adventurous traders and
trappers of the fur companies, who avoided it because it
was out of the bull'alo range ; and because the borders of
it, along which they sometimes skirted, were found to be
wanting in water-courses in which beaver might be looked
for. Walker's company therefore, now determined to
prosecute their explorations until they came to some new
and profitable beaver grounds.
But after a long march through an inhospitable country
they came at last to where the Humboldt sinks itself in a
great swampy lake, in the midst of deserts of sage-brush.
Here was the end of their great expectations. To the
west of them, however, and not far oil", rose the lofty sum-
mits of the Sierra Nevada range, some of whose peaks
were covered with eternal snows. Since they had already
made an unprofitable business of their expedition, and
failed in its principal aim, that of exploring Salt Lake,
they resolved upon crossing the mountains into California,
and seeking new fields of adventure on the western side
of the Nevada mountains.
Accordingly, although it was already late in the autumn,
the party pushed on toward the west, until they came fo
Pyramid Lake, another of those swampy lakes which are
frequently met with near the eastern base of these Sierras.
Into this flowed a stream similar to the Humboldt, which
came from the south, and, they believed, had its rise in
the mountains. As it was important to find a good pass,
they took their course along this stream, which they
named Trucker's River, and continued along it to its
head-waters in the Sierras.
And now began the arduous labor of crossing an un-
TT
<vrr i^-'W
U8
DELIGHT OF THE TRAPPERS.
known range of lofty mountains. Mountaineers as they
were, they fou^td it a difficult undertaking, and one at-
tended with considerable peril. For a period of more
than three weeks they were struggling with these dangers;
hunting paths for their mules and horses, traveling around
canyons thousands of feet deep; sometimes sinking in
new fallen snow ; always hungry, and often in peril
from starvation. Sometimes they scrambled up almost
smooth declivities of granite, that offered no foothold
save the occasional seams in the rock; at others they
traveled through pine forests made nearly impassable by
snow ; and at other times on a ridge which wind ^nd sun
made bare for them. Ail around rose rocky peaks and
pinnacles fretted by ages of denudation to very spears
and needles of a burnt looking, red colored rock. Below,
were spread out immense fields, or rather oceans, vf
granite that seemed once to h^ve been a molten sea, whose
•waves wero suddenly congealed. From the fissures be-
tween these billows grev; stunted pines, which had found
a scanty soil far down in the crevices of the rock for their
hardy roots. Following the course of i.ny stream flovang
in tha right direction for their purpose, they came not in-
frequently CO some snail fertile valley, set in amidst the
rocks like a cup, and often coiitaining m its depth a bright
little lake. These .ire the oases in the mountain deserts.
But the lateness of the season made it necessary to avoid
thr high valleys on account of the snow, which in winter
accumu]\les to a depth of twei'ty feet.
Great was the exultation c»f tho mountaineers when
they emerged from the toils and dangers, safe into the
bright and sunny plains of California; having explored
almost the identical route since fixed upon for the Union
Pacific Railroad.
They proceeded down tho Sacramento valley, toward
ESCORTED BY SPANISH SOLDIERS TO MONTEREY.
149
the coast, after recruiting their horses on the ripe wild oats,
and the freshly springing grass which the December rains
had started into life, and themselves on the plentiful game
of the foot-hills. Something of the stimulus of the Cali-
fjrnian climate seemed to be imparted to the ever buoy-
ant blood of these hardy and danger-despising men.
They were mad with delight on finding themselves, after
crossing the stern Sierras, in a land of sunshine and plenty;
a beautiful land of verdant hills and tawny plains; of
streams winding between rows of alder and willow, and
valleys dotted with picturesque groves of the evergreen
oak. Instead of the wild blasts which they were used to
encounter in December, they experienced here only those
dainty and wooing airs which poets have ascribed to spring,
but which seldom come even with the last May days in an
eastern climate.
In the San Jos^ valley they encountered a party of one
hundred soldiers, which the Spanish government at Mon-
terey had sent out to take a party of Indians accused of
stealing cattle. The soldiers were native Californians, de-
scendants of the mixed blood of Spain and Mexico, a wild,
jaunty looking set of fellows, who at first were inclined
to take Walker's party for a band of cattle thieves, and to
march them off to Monterey. But the Rocky Mountain
trapper was not likely to be taken prisoner by any such
brigade as the dashing cabelleros of Monterey.
ifter astonishing them with a series of whoops and
yells, and trying to astonish them with feats of horseman-
ship, they began to discover that when it came to the lat-
ter accomplishment, even mountain-men could learn some-
thing from a native Californian. In this latter frame of
mind they consented to be conducted to Monterey as pris-
oners or not, just as the Spanish government should here-
after be pleased to decree ; and they had confidence ia
<h ^
150
A HOSPITABLE RECEPTION.
I. «
themsehes that they should be able to bend that high and
mighty authority to their own purposes thereafter.
Nor were they mistaken in their calculations. Their
fearless, free and easy style, united to their complete hir-
nishing of arms, their numbers, and their superior ability
to stand up under the demoralizing ettect of the favorite
aguadiente^ soon so far influenced the soldiery at least, that
the trappers were allowed perfect freedom under the very
eyes of the jealous Spanish government, and were treated
with all hospitality. . •= ' ■ , '
The month which the trappers spent at Monterey was
their "red letter day" for a long time after. The habits
of the Californians accorded with their own, with just dif-
ference enough to furnish them with novelties and excite-
^i«.nts such as gave a zest to their intercourse. The
Caliiornian, and the mountain-men, were alike centaurs.
Horses were their necessity, and their delight; and the
plains swarmed with them, as also with wild cattle, de-
scendants of those imported by the Jesuit Fathers in the
early days of the Missions. These horses and cattle were
placed at the will and pleasure of the trappers. They
feasted on one, and bestrode the other as it suited them.
They attended bull-fights, ran races, threw the lasso, and
played monte, with a relish that delighted *he inhabitants
of Monterey.
The partial civilization of the Californians accorded
with every feeling to which the mountain-men could be
brought to confess. To them the refinements of cities
would have been oppressive. The adobe houses of Mon-
terey were not so restraining in their elegance as to trou-
ble the sensations of men used to the heavens for a roof
in summer, and a skin lodge for shelter in winter. Some
fruits and vegetables, articles not tasted for years, they
obtained at the missions, where the priests received them
,nd
eir
ur-
ity
•ite
hat
ery
ted
fvas
bits
dif-
:ite-
rhe
urs.
the
de-
the
ere
hey
era.
and
Hits
ed
be
ies
on-
ou-
oof
>me
ley
leni
THE NATIVE CALIFOUNIAXS.
151
courteously and hospitably, as they had done Jedediah
Smith and his company, live years before, when on their
long and disastrous journey they found themselves almost
destitute of the necessaries of life, upon their arrival in
California. There was something too, in the dress of the
people, both men and women, which agreed with, while
differing from, the dress of the mountaineers and their
now absent Indian dulcineas.
The men wore garments of many colors, consisting of
blue velveteen breeahes and jacket, the jacket having a
scarlet collar and cuffs, and the breeches being open at
the knee to display the stocking of white. Beneath these
were displayed high buskins made of deer skin,, fringed
down the outside of the ankle, and laced with a cord and
tassels. On the head was worn a broad brimmed sombrero^
and over the shoulders the jaunty Mexican sarape. When
they rode, the Californians wore enormous spurs, fastened
oh by jingling chains. Their saddles were so shaped that
it was difficult to dislodge the rider, being high before and
behind ; and the indispensable lasso hung coiled from the
pommel. Their stirrups were of wood, broad on the bot-
tom, with a guard of leather that protected the fancy bus-
kin of the horseman from injury. Thus accoutred, and
mounted on a wild horse, the Californian was a suitable
comrade, in appearance, at least, for the buckskin clad trap-
per, with his high beaver-skin cap, his gay scarf, and moc-
casins, and profusion of arms.
The dress of the women was a gown of gaudy calico
or silk, and a bright colored shawl, which served for man-
tilla and bonnet together. They were well formed, with
languishing eyes and soft voices ; and doubtless appeared
charming in the eyes of our band of trappers, with whom
they associated freely at fandangoes, bull-fights, or bear-
baitings. In such company, what wonder that Bonneville'a
imr^
152
THE MOQUIS VILLAGE— INFAMOUS AFFAIR.
men lingered for a whole month ! What wonder that the
California expedition was a favorite theme by camp-fires,
for along time subsequent?
1834. In February the trappers bethought themselves
of returning to the mountains. The route fixed upon was
one which should take them through Southern California,
and New Mexico, along the course of all the principal
rivers. Crossing the coast mountains, into the valley of
the San Joaquin, they followed its windings until they
came to its rise in the Lulare Lake. Thence turning in a
southeasterly course, they came to the Colorado, at the
Mohave villages, where they traded with the natives,
whom they found friendly. Keeping on down the Colo-
rado, to the mouth of the Gila, they turned back from
that river, and ascended the Colorado once more, to Wil-
liams' Fork, and up the latter stream to some distance,
"when they fell in with a company of sixty men under
Frapp and Jervais, two of the partners in the Rocky
Mountain Company. The meeUng was joyful on all
fiides ; but particularly so between Meek and some of his
old comrades, with whom'he had fought Indians and gnz-
zly bears, or set beaver traps on some lonely stream in
the Blackfoot country. A lively exchange of questions
and answers took place, while gaiety and good feehng
reigned.
Frapp had been out quite as long as the Monterey party.
It was seldom that the brigade which traversed the south-
ern country, on the Colorado, and its large tributaries,
returned to winter quarters; for in the region where they
trapped winter was unknown, and the journey to the north-
ern country a long and hazardous one. But the reunited
trappers had each their own experiences to relate.
The two companies united made a party nearly two hun-
dred strong. Keeping with Frapp, they crossed over from
THE RETURN MARCH.
153
Williams' Fork to the Colorado Chiquito river, at the Mo-
qiiis village, where some of the men disgraced themselves
flir more than did Jo Walker's party at the crossing of
Mary's River. For the Moquis were a half-civilized nation,
who had houses and gardens, and conducted themselves
kindly, or at the worst peaceably, toward properly behaved
strangers. These trappers, instead of approaching them
with offers of purchase, lawlessly entered their gardens,
rifling them of whatever fruit or melons were ripe, and
not hesitating to destroy that which was not ripe. To this,
as might be expected, the Moquises objected; and were
shot down for so doing. In this truly infamous affair fif-
teen or twenty of them were killed.
"I didn't belong to that crowd," says Joe Meek, "I sat
on the fence and saw it, though. It was a shameful thing."
From the Moquis village, the joint companies crossed
the country in a northeasterly direction, crossing several
branches of the Colorado at their head-waters, which
course finally brought them to the head- waters of the Rio
Grande. The journey from the mouth of the Gila, though
long, extended over a country comparatively safe. Either
farther to the south or east, the caravan would have been
in danger of a raid from the most dangerous tribes on the
continent.
Mj :
CITAPTEU IX.
1834. But Joe Meek was not destined to return to the
Rocky Mountains without having had an Indian fight. If
adventures did not come in liis way he was the man to put
himself in the way of adventures.
, While the camp was on its way from the neighborhood
of Grande River to the New Park, Meek, Kit Carson,
and Mitchell, with three Delaware Indians, named Tom
Hill, Manhead, and Jonas, went on a hunt across to the
east of Grande River, in the country lying between the
Arkansas and Cimarron, where numerous small branches
of these rivers head together, or within a small extent of
country.
They were about one hundred and fifty miles from camp,
and traveling across the open plain between the streams,
one beautiful May morning, when about five miles off they
descried a large band of Indians mounted, and galloping
toward them. As they were in the Camanche country,
they knew Avhat to expect if they allowed themselves
to be taken prisoners. They gave but a moment to the
observation of their foes, but that one moment revealed
a spirited scene. Fully two hundred Camanches, their
warriors in front, large and well formed men, mounted oa
fleet and powerful horses, armed with spears and battle
axes, racing like the wind over the prairie, their feather
head-dresses bending to the breeze, that swept past them
in the race' with double force ; all distinctly seen in the
M
. to the
ht. If
1 to put
(orhood
Carson,
3d Tom
3 to the
een the
ranches
:tent of
1 camp,
itreams,
)ff they
Alopmg
ountry,
oaselves
t to the
evealed
3, their
ited on
battle
feather
t them
in the
nwf
'■ ^^vl
m
clear air
foar min
The fi
was cm]
was usel
take the]
covert w
iiiountaii
changed
our mule
That i
who no c
be their ;
this plig
one. Tc
mules, se
their thn
bridles n
Then ha
knives, tl
for each i
In less
them; th
ing, and i
carried ai
the rattlir
the little
Camanch(
upon the
for their i
This w
were coo"
wrought
more thai
THE MULE FORT — A CAMANCHE CHARGE.
155
cloar air of the prairie, and giving the beholder a thrill of
fear mingled with admiration. , . ,.
The first moment given to this spectacle, the second one
was employed to devise some means of escape. To run
was useless. The swift Camanche steeds would soon over-
take them ; and then tlieir horrible doom was fixed. No
covert was at hand, neither thicket nor ravine, as in the
mountains there might have been. Carson and Meek ex-
changed two or three sentences. At last, " we must kill
our mules!" said they. ■ .: . •
That seems a strange devise to the uninitiated reaf''er,
who no doubt believes that in such a case their mules must
be their salvation. And so they were intended to be. In
this plight a dead mule was far more useful than a live
one. To the ground sprang every man ; and placing their
mules, seven in number, in a ring, they in an instant cut
their throats with their hunting knives, and held on to the
bridles until each animal fell dead in its appointed place.
Then hastily scooping up what earth they could with
knives, they made themselves a fort — a hole to stand in
for each man, and a dead mule for a breastwork.
In less than half an hour the Camanches charged on
them; the medicine-man in advance shouting, gesticulat-
ing, and making a desperate clatter with a rattle which he
carried and shook violently. The yelling, the whooping,
the rattling, the force of the charge were appalling. But
the little garrison in the mule fort did not waver. The
Camanche horses did. They could not be made to charge
upon the bloody carcasses of the mules, nor near enough
for their riders to throw a spear into the fort.
This was what the trappers had relied upon. They
were cool and determined, while terribly excited and
wrought up by their situation. It was agreed that no
more than three should fire at a time, the other three re-
15G
REPEATED ATTACKS THE SQUAWS WEAPON,
serving their fire while the empty guns could be reloaded.
They were to pick their men, and kill one at every shot
They acted up to their regulations. At the charge the
Camanche horses recoiled and could not be urged upon
the fort of slaughtered mules. The three whites fired first,
and the medicine-man and two other Camanches fell.
When a medicine-man is killed, the others retire to hold a
council and appoint another, for without their "medicine"
they could not expect success in battle. This was time
gained. The warriors retired, while their women came
up and carried oiF the dead.
After devoting a little time to bewailing the departed,
another chief was appointed to the head place, and another
furious charge was made with the same results as before.
Three more warriors bit the dust ; while the spears of their
brethren, attached to long hair ropes by which they could
be withdrawn, fell short of reaching the men in the fort
Again and again the Camanches made a fruitless charge,
losing, as often as they repeated it, three warriors, either
dead or wounded. Three times that day the head chief
or medicine-man was killed; and when that happened,
the heroes in the fort got a little time to breathe. While
the warriors held a council, the women took care of the
wounded and slain.
As the women approached the fort to carry off the fallen
warriors, they mocked and reviled the little band of trap-
pers, calling them "women," for fighting in a fort, and
resorting to the usual Indian ridicule and gasconade:
Occasionally, also, a warrior raced at full speed past the
fort apparently to take observations. Thus the battle con-
tinued through the entire day.
It was terrible work for the trappers. The burning sun
of the plains shone on them, scorching them to faintness.
Their faces were begrimed with powder and dust ; their
THE ESCAPE HY NKJHT THE SOUTH I'AUK.
157
throats parched, and tongues swollen with thirst, and their
whole frames aching from their cramped positions, as well
as the excitement and fatigue of the Imttle. But they
dared not relax their vigilance for a moment. They were
fighting for their lives, and they meant to win.
At length the sun set on that bloody and wearisome
day. Forty-two Camanches were killed, and several more
wounded, for the charge had been repeated fifteen or
twenty times. The Indians drew off at nightfall to mourn
over their dead, and hold a council. Probably they had
lost faith in their medicines, or believed that the trappers
possessed one far greater than any of theirs. Under the
friendly, cover of the night, the six heroes who had fought
successfully more than a hundred Camanches, took each
his blanket and his gun, and bidding a brief adieu to dead
mules and beaver packs, set out to return to camp.
When a mountain-man had a journey to perform on foot,
to travel express, or to escape from an enemy, he fell into
what is called a dog trot, and ran in that manner, some-
times, all day. On the present occasion, the six, escaping
for Ufe, ran all night, and found no water for seventy-five
mile When they did at last come to a clear running-
stream, their thankfulness was equal to their necessity,
"for," says Meek, "thirst is the greatest suffering I ever
experienced. It is far worse than hunger or pain."
Having rested and refreshed themselves at the stream,
they kept on without much delay until they reached camp
in that beautiful valley of the Rocky Mountains called the
New, or the South Park.
While they remained in the South Park, Mr. Guthrie,
one of the Rocky Mountain Company's traders, was killed
by lightning. A number of persons were collected in the
lodge of the Booshway, Frapp, to avoid the rising tempest,
when Guthrie, who was leaning against the lodge pole,
Si;,,
'
m ..-.yiiiaiiu
158 L'EATH OF GUTHRIE. MEETING WITH BONNEVILLE.
was struck by a flash of the electric current, and fell dead
instantly. Frapp rushed out of the lodge, partly bawil-
dered himself by the shock, and under the impression that
Gutlnio had been shut. Frapp was a German, and spoke
English somewhiit imperfectly. In the excitement of the
moment he shouted out, " Py , who did shoot
Guttery ! "
" — a' , I. expect: Jle's a firing into camp;"
drawled out Hawkins, v hose ready wit was very disregard-
ful of sacred names and subjects.
The mountaineers were familiar with the most awful
aspects cf nature ; and if their familiarity had not bred
contempt, it had at least hardened them to those solcmD
impressions which other men would have felt under theif
influ nee.
From New Paik, Meek traveled north with ih^ main
camp, passing first to the Old Park ; thence to the Littie
Snake, a branch of Bear River; thence to Pilot Butte;
and finally to Green River to rendezvous ; having traveled
in the past year about three thousand miles, on horseback,
through new and often dangerous countries. It is easy to
believe that the Monterey expedition was the populat
theme in camp during rendezvous. It had been difficuU
to get volunteers for Bonneville's Salt Lake Exploration ;
but riuch was the wild adventure to which it led, that vol-
unteering for p, trip to Monterey would have been c xceed*
iugly popular imm' liately thereafter.
On Bear River, Bonneville's men fell in with their com-
mander, Captain Bonneville, whose disappointment and
indignation at the failure of his plans was exceedingly
great. In this indignation there was considerable justice;
yet much of his disappointment was owing to causes which
a more experienced trader would have avoided. The only
conclusion which caii be arrived at by ;> i impartial ob*
RUINOUS COMPETITION.
159
lii
server of the events of 1832-35, is, tliu none but certain
men of long experience and liberal means, could succeed
in the business of the fur-trade. There were too many
cliauces of loss; too many wild elements to be mingled
in amity ; and too powerful opposition from the old estab-
lished companies. Captain Bonneville's experience was
no different from Mr. Wyeth's. In both cases there was
much eflbrt, outlay, and loss. Nor was their failure owing
to any action of the Hudson's Bay Company, different
from, or more tyrannical, than the action of the American
companies, as has frequently been represented. It was
the An crican companies in the Rocky Mountains that
drove both Bonneville and Wyeth out of the field. Their
inexryerience could not cope with the thorough knowledge
of the business, and the country, which their older rivals
possessed. Raw recruits were no match, in trapping or
fighting, for old mountaineers: and those veterans who
had served long under certain leaders could not be in-
veigled from their service except upon the most extrava-
gant offers; and these extravagant wages, w' eh if one
paid, the other must, would not allow a profit to either of
the rivals.
"How much does your company pay you?" asked Bon-
neville of Meek, to whom he was complaining of the con-
duct of his men on the Monterey expedition.
"Fifteen hundred dollars," answered Meek,
''Yes: and /will give it to you," said Bonneville with
bitterness. ' ' '
It was quite true. Such was the competition aroused
by the Captain's efforts to secure good men and pilots,
that rather than lose them to a rival company, the Rocky
Mountain Company paid a few of their best men the wa-
ges above named.
u
M'.-.!' _,Ji.
CHAPTER X.
1834. The gossip at rendezvous was this year of an
unusually exciting character. Of the brigades which left
for different parts of the country the previous summer,
the Monterey travelers were not the only ones who had
met with adventures. Fitzpatrick, who had led a party
into the Crow country that autumn, had met with a char-
acteristic reception from that nation of cunning vaga-
bonds.
Being with his party on Lougue River, in the early part
of September, he discovered that he was being dogged
by a considerable band of Crows, and endeavored to elude
their spying; but all to no purpose. The Crow chief
kept in his neighborhood, and finally expressed a desbc
to bring his camp alongside that of Fitzpatrick, pretend-
ing to the most friendly and honorable sentiments toward
his white neighbors. But not feeling any confidence in
Crow friendship, Fitzpatrick declined, and moved ca«p a
few miles away. Not, however, wishing to offend the dig-
nity of the apparently friendly chief, he took a small es-
cort, and went to }>ay a visit to his Crow neighbors, that
they might see that he was not afraid to trust them.
Alas, vain subterfuge !
While he was exchanging civilities with the Crow chief,
a party of the young braves stole out of camp, and takiii?'
advantage of the leader's absence, made an attack cm^
camp, so sudden and successful that not a horse, aorsBf-
thing else which they could make booty of wn teft
HONOR AMONG THIEVES.
161
Even Captain Stuart, who was traveling with Fitzpatrick,
and who was an active officer, was powerless to resist the
attack, and had to consent to see the camp rifled of every-
thing valuable.
In the meantime Fitzpatrick, after concluding his visit
in the most amicable manner, was returning to camp, when
he was met by the exultant braves, who added insult to
injury by robbing him of his horse, gun, and nearly all
his clothes, leaving him to return to his party in a de-
plorable condition, to the great amusement of the trap-
pers, and his own chagrin.
However, the next day a talk was held with the head
chief of the Crows, to whom Fitzpatrick represented the
infamy of such treacherous conduct in a very strong light.
In answer to this reproof, the chief disowned all knowi-
edge of the affair; saying that ho could not always con-
trol the conduct of the young men, who would be a littlo
wild now and then, in spite of the best Cnuv precepts :
but that he would do what he could to havo the property
restored. Accordingly, ofter more talk, nnd much elo-
quence on the part of Fitzpatrick. the chief part of tho
plunder was returned to him, including tho horses and
rifles of the men, together with a little ammunition, and a
few boaver traps.
Fitzpatrick understood the meaning o( this apparent
fairness, and hastened to get out of the (^row country be-
fore another raid by the mischievous young braves, at a
^me when their chief was not "honor bound." should de-
prive him of the i covered property. That hib conjecture
vil« well founded, was proven by the numeixms petty
Aefts which were committed, diul by the loss of several
horses aid mules, l>efore he could remove them beyond
the lirait.^ o^ the Crow territory.
While the trappers exchanged accounts of their indi-
iltiij
w
162
UNFAIR TREATMENT OF WYETH.
Bi '
vidual experiences, the leaders had more important mat-
ters to gossip over. The rivalry between the several fur
companies was now at its climax. Through the energy
and ability of Captain Sublette of the St. Louis Company,
and the experience and industry of the Rocky Mountain
Company, which Captain Sublette still continued to con-
trol in n measure, the power still remained with them.
The American Company had never been able to cope with
them in the Rocky Mountains ; and the St. Lonis Com-
pany were already invading their territory on the iyiissouri
River, by carrying goods up that river in boats, to trade
with the Indians under the very walls of the American
Compiiny's forts.
In August of the pievlous year, when Mr. Nathaniel
Wyeth had started on his return to the states, he was ac-
companied as far as the mouth of the Yellowstone by
Milton Sublette ; and had engaged with that gentleman
to furnish him with goods the following year, as he be-
lieved he could do, cheaper than the St. Louis Company,
who purchased their goods in St. Louis at a great advance
on Boston prices. But Milton Sublette fell in with his
brother the Captain, at the mouth of the Yellowstone,
with a keel-boat loaded with merchandise; and while
Wyeth pursued his way eastward to purchase the Indian
goods which were intended to supply the wants of the
fur-tradors in the Rocky Mountains, iit a profit to hi:a, ami
an advantage to them, the Captain was pcsuading his
brother not to encourage any interlopers in the Indian
trade ; but to continue to buy goods from himself, as for-
merly. So potent were his arguments, that Milton yielded
to them, in spite of his engagement with V/'yeth. Thus
during the autumn of 1833, while Bonneville waa being
wronged and robbed, as he afterwards became convinced,
by his men under Walker, and anticipated in the hunting-
BONNEVILLE S VISIT TO \VALL.\ II- WALLAH.
163
111
*1 i^xU]
ground selected for himself, in the Crow country, by Fitz- '
patrick, as he had previously hen in the Snake country
bv Milton Sublette, Wycth was proceeding to Boston in
good faith, to execute what proved to be a fool's errand.
Bonneville also had gone on another, when after the trap-
ping season was over he left his camp to winter on the
Snake River, and started with a small escort to visit the
Columbia, and select a spot for a trading-post on the lower
portion of that river. On arriving at Wallah- Wallah, af-
ter a hard journey over the Blue Mountains in the winter,
the agent at that post had refused to s\ipply him with pro-
visions to prosecute his journey, and given him to under-
stand that the Hudson's Bay Company might be polite
and hos})itable to Captain Bonneville as the gentleman,
but that it was against their regulations to entourage the
advent of other traders who would interfere with their
business, and unsettle the minds of the Indians in that
region.
This reply so annoyed the Captain, that he refused the
well meant advice of Mr. Pambrun that he should not un-
dertake to recross the Blue Mountainr, in March snows, but
travel under the escort of Mr. Payette, one of the Hud-
son's Bay Company's leaders, who was about starting for
the Nez Perce country by a safer if more circuitous route.
He therefore set out to return by the route he came,
and only arrived at camp in May, 1834, after many dan-
gers and difficulties. From the Portneuf River, he then
proceeded with his camp to explore the Little Snake
River, and Snake Lake ; and it was while so doing that
he fell in with his men just returned from Monterey,
Such was tho relative positioji of the several fur com-
panies in the Rocky Mountains in 1834 ; and it was of
?iK'h matters that the leaders talked in tho lodge of the
Booshwavs, at rendezvous. In th(» nicj'ntimc Wycth ar-
Ff^s-S5="^
1G4
WYETH S TIIUKAT l-'OUT HALL.
mi
rived in the mountains Avith liis goods, as he had con-
tracted with Milton Sublette in the previous year. But
on his heels came Captain Sublette, also with goods, and
the Rocky Mountain Company violated their contract with
Wyeth, and purchased of their old leader.
Thus was Wyeth left, with his goods on his hands, in a
country where it was impossible to sell them, and useless
to undertake an opposition to the already established fur-
traders and trappers. His indignation was great, and cer-
tainly was just. In his interview with the Rocky Moun-
tain Company, in reply to their excuses for, and vindica-
tion of their conduct, his answer was :
"Gentlemen, I will roll a stone into your garden that
you will ne^T^er be able to get out."
And he kept his promise ; for that same autumn he
moved on to the Snake River, and built Fort Hall, storing
his goods therein. The next year he sold out goods and
fort to the Hudson's Bay Company ; and the stone was in
the garden of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company that
they were never able In dishjdgr. When Wyeth had built
his fort and left it in chfirge of an agent, he dispatched a
party of trappers to hunt in the Big Blackfoot country,
under Joseph Gale, who had previously been in the ser-
vice of the Rocky Mountain Company, and of whom we
shall learn move hereafter, while he set out for the Co-
lumbia to meet his vessel, and establish a salmon fishery.
The fate of that eiitcM-prise has already been recorded.
As for Bonneville, he made one more effort to reach the
lower Columbia ; failing, however, a second time, for the
same reason as before — he could not subsist himself and
company in a country where even every Indian refused to
sell to him either furs or provisions. After being reduced
to horse-flesh, and finding no encouragement that hi« con-
dition \/ould be improved farther down the river, he
DIVISION OF TERUITORY.
165
turned back once more from about Wallah-Wallah, and
returned to the mountains, and from there to the east in
the following year. A company of his trappers, however,
continued to hunt for him east of the mountains for two
or three years longer.
The rivalry between the Rocky Mountain and American
Companies was this year diminished by their mutually
agreeing to confine themselves to certain parts of the
country, which treaty continued for two years, when they
united in one company. They Avere then, with the excep-
tion of a few lone traders, the only compotitor.s of the
Hudson's Bay Company, for the fur-trade of the West.
^^
VIEW ON THE COLUMBIA.
msmsm
• I
1 1I i$
CHAPTER XI.
1834. The Rocky Mountain Company now confined
themselves to the country \yiug east of the mountains,
and upon the head-waters and tributaries of the Missouri,
a country very productive in furs, and furnishing- abund-
ance of game. But it was also the most dangerous of
all the northern fur-hunting territory, as it was the home
of those two nations of desperadoes, the Crows and
Blackfeet. During the two years in which the company
may have been said almost to reside there, desperate en-
counters and hair-breadth escapes were incidents of daily
occurrence to some of the numerous trapping parties.
The camp had reached the Blackfoot cc^antry in the
autumn of this year, and the trappers were out in all
directions, hunting boaver in the numerous small streams
tlmt flow into the Missouri. On a small branch of the
Oallatin Fork, some of the trappers fell in with a party
of Wyeth's men, under Joseph Gale. When their neigh-
borhood became known to the Hocky Mountain camp,
Meek and a party of sixteen of h ' associates Ininiediately
resolved to pay them a visit, and inquire into their expe-
rience since leaving lendezvous. Those visits betWooQ
different camps are usually seasons of great interest an4
general rejoicing. But glnd as Gale and his men were
to meet with old friends, vhen the first burst of hearty
greeting was over, they had but a sorry experience to re-
late. They had been out ^ long time. The Blackfeet
had used them badly — several men had been killed.
Their g
exhaust
bliUlk'Ct
and th(
Half
passed
^-r-r^^Mih
THE VISITOHS BECOME DEFENDERS.
16T
Their guns were out of order, their ammunition all but
exhausted ; they were destitute, or nearly so, of traps,
blankets, knives, everything. They were what the Indian
.and the mountain-man eall "very poor."
Half the night was spent in recounting all that had
passed in both conn)anies since the fall hunt began. Little
sympathy did Wyeth's men receive for their forloVn con-
dition, for sympathy is repudiated by your true moun-
taineer for himself, nor will he furnish it to others. The
absurd and humorous, or the daring and reckless, side of
a story is the only one which is dwelt upon in narrating
his adventures. The laugh which is raised at his expense
■vvhen he has a tale of woes to communicate, is a better
tonic to his dejected spirits than the gentlest pity would
be. Thus lashed into courage again, he is ready to de-
clare that all his troubles were only so much pastime.
It was this sort of cheer which the trapping party con-
veyed to Wyeth's men on this visit, and it was gratefully
received, as being of the true kind.
In the morning the party set out to return to camp,
Meek and Liggit starting in advance of the others. They
had not proceeded far when they were fired on by a large
band of Blackfeet, who came upon them quite suddenly,
and thinking these two trappers easy game, set up a yell
and dashed at them. As Meek and Liggit turned back
and ran to Gale's camp, the Indians in full chase charged
on them, and rushed pell-mell into the midst of camp,
almost before they had time to discover that they had
Riii'|iriHefl HO large a party of whites. So sudden was
llii'h' iulv(»nt, that they had almost taken the camp before
llii' wliitoH could recover from the confusion of the charge.
It was but a momentary shock, however. In another
instant the roar of twenty guns reverberated from the
mountains that rose high on either side of camp. The
m
168
FIUiniNG FOli LIFK.
I.i
5
Blackfoet were taken in a snare ; but they rallied and fell
back beyond tlie grove in which the camp was situated,
setting on lire the dry grass as they went. The fire
quickly spread to the grove, and shot up the pine trees in
splendid columns of tlunic, that secnned to lick the face
of heaven. The Indians kept close behind the fire, shoot-
ing into camp whenever they could approach near enough,
the trappers replying by frequent volleys. The yells of
the savages, the noise of the flames roaring in the trees,
the belloAving of the guns, whose echoes rolled among
the hills, and the excitement of a battle for life, made the
scene one long to be remembered with distinctness.
Both sides fought with desperation. The Blackfoot
blood was up — the trapper blood no less. Gale's men,
from having no ammunition, nor guns that were in order,
could do little more than take charge of the horses, which
they led out into the bottom land to escape the fire, fight
the flames, and look after the camp goods. The few
whose guns were available, showed the game spirit, and
the fight became 'interesting as an exhibition of what
mountain white men could do in a contest of one to ten,
with the crack warriors of the red race. It was, at any
time, a game party, consisting of Meek, Carson, Hawkins,
Gale, Liggit, Rider, Robinson, Anderson, Russel, Larison,
Ward, Parmaley, Wade, Michael Head, and a few others
whose names have been forgotten.
The trappers being driven out of the grove by the fire,
were forced to take to the open ground. The Indians,
following the fire, had the advantage of the shelter
afforded by the trees, and their shots made havoc among
the horses, most of which were killed because they could
not be taken. As for the trappers, they used the horses
for defence, making rifle-pits behind them, when no other
covert could be found. lu this manner the battle was
;3
ijmm
'yi^w
THE TRAPPERS VlCTORy.
1G9
PUstiiinetT until throe o'clock in the afternoon, without loss
of life to the whites, thouj^h sevenil nic-n were wounded.
At three in the afternoon, the Blackfoot chief ordered
a retreat, calling out to the trajipers that they would light
no more. Though their loss had been heavy, they still
greatly outnumbered the whites ; noi- would tiie condition
of the arms and the small amount of ammunition left
permit the trappers to pursue them. The Indians were
severely beaten, and no longer in a condition to fight, all
of which was highly satisfactory to the victors. The only
regret was, that Bridger's camp, which had become aware
during the day that a battle was going on in the neigh-
borhood, did not arrive early enough to exterminate the
whole band. As it was, the big camp only came up in
time to assist in taking care of the wounded. The de-
struction of their horses put an end to the independent
existence of Gale's brigade, which joined itself and its
fortunes to Bridger's command for the renuuuder of the
year. Had it not been for the fortunate visit of the trap-
pers to Gale's camp, without doubt every man in it would
have perished at the hands of the Blackfeet: a piece of
bad fortune not unaccordant with that which seemed to
pursue the enterprises set on foot by the active but un-
lucky New England trader.
Not long afte ■< battle witb the Blackfeet, Mock and
a trapper name 1 Cr-w, with two Shawnees, went over
into the Crow Comtrv to trap on Pryor's River, a branch
of the Yellowstone. On coming to the pass in the moun-
tains between the Gallatin Fork of the Missouri and the
great bend in the Yellowstone, called" Pryor's Gap, Meek
rode forward, with the mad-cap spirit strong in him, to
" have a little fun with the boys," and advancing a short
distance into the pass, wheeled suddenly, and came racing
back, whooping and yelling, to make his comrades think
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170
CHASEK BY INDIANS — A BLACKFOOT AMBUSH.
i -^
he had discovered Indians. And lo ! as if his yells had
invoked them from the rocks and trees, a war party sud-
denly emerged from the pass, on the heels of the jester,
and what had been sport speedily became earnest, as the
trappers turned their horses' heads and made off in the
direction of camp. They had a fine race of it, and heard
other yells and war-whoops besides their own ; but they
contrived to elude their pursuers, returning safe to camp.
This freak of Meek's was, after all, a fortunate inspira-
tion, for had the four trappers entered the pass and come
upon the war party of Crows, they would never have es-
caped alive.
A few days after, the same party set out again, and
succeeded in reaching Pryor's River unmolested, and set-
ting their traps. They remained some time in this neigh-
borhood trapping, but the season had become pretty well
advanced, and they were thinking of returning to camp
for the winter. The Shawnees set out in one direction
to take up tht.r traps. Meek and Crow in another. The
stream where their traps were set was bordered by thick-
ets of willow, wild cherry, and plum trees, and the bank
was about ten feet above the water at this season of the
year.
Meek had his traps set in the stream about midway be-
tween two thickets. As he approached the river he ob-
served with the quick eye of an experienced mountain-
man, certain signs which gave him little satisfaction. The
buffalo were moving off as if disturbed ; a bear ran sud-
denly out of its covert among the willo'vvs.
" I told Crow," said Meek, "that I didn't like to go in
there. He laughed at me, and called me a coward. ' All
the same,' I said ; I had no fancy for the place just then
— I didn't like the indications. But he kept jeering me^
and at last I got mad and started in. Just as I got to my
A RUNNING FIGHT.
171
traps, I discovered that two red devils war a watching me
from the shelter of the thicket to my left, about two rods'
off. When they saw that they war discovered they raised
their guns and fired. I turned my horse's head at the
same instant, and one ball passed through his neck, undc*
the neck bone, and the other through his withers, just
forward of my saddle.
" Seeing that they had not hit me, one of them ran up
with a spear to spear me. My horse war rearing and pitch-
ing from the pain of his wounds, so that I could with diffi-
culty govern him ; but I had my gun laid across my arm,
and when I fired I killed the rascal with the spear. Up
to that moment I had supposed that them two war all I
had to deal with. But as I got my horse turned round,
with my arm raised to fire at the other red devil, I encoun-
tered the main party, forty-nine of them, who war in the
bed of the stream, and had been covered by the bank.
They fired a volley at me. Eleven balls passed through
my blanket, under my arm, which war raised. I thought
it time to run, and run I did. Crow war about two hun-
dred yards off. So quick had all this happened, that he
had not stirred from the spot whar I left him. When I
came up to him I called out that I must get on behind
him, for my horse war sick and staggering.
" 'Try him again,' said Crow, who war as '.nxious to be
off as I war. I did try him agin, and sure enough, he got
up a gallop, and away we went, the Blackfeet after us.
But being mounted, we had the advantage, and soon dis-
tanced them. Before we had run a mile, I had to dismount
and breathe my horse. We war in a narrov/ pass whar it
war impossible to hide, so when the Indians came up with
us, as they did, while I war dismounted we took sure aim
and killed the two foremost ones. Before the others could
get close enough to fire we war off agin. It didn't take
172
ESCAPE.
I
"■'i
Wm
14 -•
much urging to make my horse go then, for the yells of
them Blackfeet spurred him on.
"When we had run another mile I dismounted agin, for
fear that my horse would give out, and agin we war over-
taken. Them Blackfeet are powerful runners: — no better
than us mountain-men, though. This time we seiTed
them just as we did before. We picked off two of the
foremost, and then went on, the rest whooping after us.
We war overtaken a third time in the same manner ; and
the third time two Blackfeet fell dead in advance. At this,
they took the hint. Six warriors already gone for two
white scalps and two horses ; they didn't know how many
more would go in the same way. And I reckon they had
run about all thty wanted to, anyway."
It is only necessary to add that Meek and Crow arrived
safely at camp ; and that the Shawnees came in after a day
or two all right. Soon after the whole command under
Bridger moved on to the Yellowstone, and went into win-
ter camp in the great bend of that river, where buffalo
were plenty, and cotton-wood was in abundance.
1835. Towards spring, however, the game had nearly
all disappeared from the neighborhood of the camp ; and
the hunters were forced to follow the buffalo in their mi-
gration eastward. On one of these expeditions a party
of six trappers, including Meek, and a man named Rose,
made their camp on Clarke's fork of the Yellowstone.
The first night in camp Rose had a dream with which he
was very much impressed. He dreamed of shaking hands
with a large white bear, which insisted on taking his right
hand for that friendly ceremony. He had not given it
very willingly, for he knew too much about bears in gen-
eral to desire to be on very intimate terms with them.
Seeing that the dream troubled Rose, who was supersti-
tiously inclined. Meek resorted to that " certain medicine
a-'- 1
A SINGULAR DREAM ANL ITS INTERPRETATION.
17$
for minds diseased " which was in use in the mountains, and
added to the distress of Rose his interpretation, in the
spirit of ridicule, telling him that he was an adept in the
matter of dreams, and that unless he, Rose, was very mind-
ful of himself that day, he would shake hands with Beel-
zebub before he slept again.
With this comforting assurance. Rose set out with the
remainder of the party to hunt buffalo. They had pro-
ceeded about three miles from camp. Rose riding in ad-
vance, when they suddenly encountered a company of
Blackfeet, nine in number, spies from a war party of one
hundred and fifty, that was prowling and marauding-
through the country on the lookout for small parties from
the camp of Bridger. The Blackfeet fired on the party
as it came up, from their place of concealment, a ball strik-
ing Rose's right arm, and breaking it at the elbow. This,
caused his gun to fall, and an Indian sprang forward and
raised it up quickly, aiming it at Meek. The ball passed
through his cap without doing any other harm. By this
time the trappers were made aware of an ambuscade ; but
how numerous the enemy was they could not determine.
However, as the rest, who were well mounted, turned to
fly, Meek, who was riding an old mule that had to be beaten
over the head to make it go, seeing that he was going to
be left behind, called out lustily, " hold on, boys ! There's
not many of them. Let's stop and fight 'em;" at the
same time pounding the mule over the head, but without
effect. The Indians saw the predicament, and ran up to
seize the mule by the bridle, but the moment the mule got
wind of the savages, away he went, racing like a thorough-
bred, jumping impediments, and running right over a ra-
vine, which was fortunately filled with snow. This move-
ment brought Meek out ahead.
The other men then began to call out to Meek to stop
174
MEEK '8 MULE STORY.
and fight. " Run for your lives, boj'^s," roared Meek back
at them, " there's ten thousand of them ; they'll kill every
one of you ! "
The mule had got his head, and there was no more stop-
ping him than there had been starting him. On he went
in the direction of the Yellowstone, while the others made
for Clarke's Fork. On arriving at the former river. Meek
found that some of the pack horses had followed him,
and others the rest of the party. This had divided the
Indians, three or four of whom were on his trail. Spring-
ing off his mule, he threw his blankets down on the ice,
and by moving them alternately soon crossed the mule
over to the opposite side, just in time to avoid a bullet that
came whistling after him. As the Indians could not fol-
low, he ■ pursued his way to camp in safety, arriving late
that evening. The main party were already in acd expect-
ing him. Soon after, the buffalo hunters returned to the
big camp, minus some pack horses, but with a good story
to tell, at the expense of Meek, and which he enjoys tell-
ing of himself to this day.
It
4 ^- 1 .
id Meek back
y'll kill every
no more stop-
On he went
3 others made
ir river, Meek
bllowed him,
d divided the
rail. Spring-
vn on the ice,
ssed the mule
i a bullet that
could not fol-
ariiving late
in and expect-
itumed to the
. a good story
le enjoys tell-
1
U Vi ,'
i- ;i
1
1 ■
;
'
m' i ' ':
^1
'A
CHAPTER XII.
u
/
s
k
s
s
«4
^
ft.
5
W
1835. Owing to the high rate of pay which Meek was
now able to command, he began to think of imitating the
example of that distinguished order, the free trappers, to
which he now belonged, and setting up a lodge to himself
as a family man. The writer of this veracious history has
never been able to obtain a full and particular account of
our hero's earliest love adventures. This is a subject on
which, in common with most mountain-men, he observes a
becoming reticence. But of one thing we feel quite well
assured: that from the time when the young Shoshonie
beauty assisted in the rescue of himself and Sublette from
the execution of the death sentence at the hands of her
people. Meek had always cherished a rather more than
friendly regard for the "Mountain Lamb."
But Sublette, with wealth and power, and the privileges
of a Booshway, had hastened to secure her for himself;
and Meek had to look and long from afar oflf, until, in the
year of which we are writing, Milton Sublette was forced
to leave the mountains and repair to an eastern city for
surgical aid ; having received a very troublesome wound
in the leg, which was only cured at last by amputation.
Whether it was the act of a gay Lothario, or whether
the law of divorce is even more easy in the mountains
than m Indiana, we have always judiciously refrained from
inquiring; but this we do know, upon the word of Meek
himself, no sooner was Milton's back turned, than his friend
12
! 'M
ITii
HER DRESS, HORSE, AND EQUIPMENTS.
1 .i.
i ''H
so insinuated himself into the good graces of his Isabel,
as Sublette was wont to name the lovely Umentucken, that
she consented to join her fortunes to those of the handsome
young trapper without even the ceremony of serving a
notice on her former lord. As their season of bliss only
extended over one brief year, this chapter shall be entirely
devoted to recording such facts as have been imparted to
us concerning this free trapper's wife.
" She was the most beautiful Indian woman I ever saw,"
says Meek: "and when she was mounted on her dapple
gray horse, which cost me three hundred dollars, she
made a fine show. She wore a skirt of beautiful blue
broadcloth, and a bodice and leggins of scarlet cloth, of
the very finest make. Her hair was braided and fell over
her shoulders, a scarlet silk handkerchief, tied on hood
fashion, covered her head; and the finest embroidered
moccasins her feet. She rode like all the Indian women,
astride, and carried on one side of the saddle the toma-
hawk for war, and on the other the pipe of peace.
" The name of her horse was " All Fours." His accou-
trements were as fine as his rider's. The saddle, crupper,
and bust girths cost one hundred and fifty dollars ; the
bridle fifty dollars; and the musk-a-moots fifty dollars more.
All these articles were ornamented with fine cut glass beads,
porcupine quills, and hawk's bells, that tinkled at every step.
Her blankets were of scarlet and blue, and of the finest
quality. Such was the outfit of the trapper's wife, Umenr
tucken^ Tukutey Undenwatsy^ the Lamb of the Mountains."
Although Umentucken was beautiful, and had a name
signifying gentleness, she was not without a will and a
spirit of her own, when the occasion demanded it. While
the camp was on the Yellowstone River, in the summer of
1835, a party of women left it to go in search of berries,
which were often dried and stored for winter use by ti»
umbntuoken's quarrel with the trapper. 177
Indian women. TJmentucken accompanied this party,
which was attacked by a band of Blackfeet, «ome of the
squaws being taken prisoners. But Umentucken saved
herself by flight, and by swimming the Yellowstone while
a hundred guns were leveled on her, the bullets whistling
about her ears.
At another time she distinguished herself in camp by a
quarrel with one of the trappers, in which she came oflf
with flying colors. The trapper was a big, bullying Irish-
man named O'Fallen, who had purchased two prisoners
from the Snake Indians, to be kept in a state of slavery,
after the manner of the savages. The prisoners were
Utes, or Utahs, who soon contrived to escape. O'Fallen,
imagining that Umentucken had liberated them, threatened
to whip her, and armed himself with a horsewhip for that
purpose. On hearing of these threats Umentucken re-
paired to her lodge, and also armed herself, but with a
pistol. When O'Fallen approached, the whole camp look-
ing on to see the event, Umentucken slipped out at the
back of the lodge and coming around confronted him be-
fore he could enter.
"Coward!" she cried. "You would whip the wife of
Meek. He is not here to defend me ; not here to kill you.
But I shall do that for myself," and with that she presented
the pistol to his head. O'Fallen taken by surprise, and
having every reason to believe she would keep her word,
and kill him on the spot, was obliged not only to apologize,
but to beg to have his life spared. This Umentucken con-
sented to do on condition of his sufficiently humbling him-
self, which he did in a very shame-faced manner ; and a shout
then went up from the whole camp — " hurrah for the
Mountain Lamb!" for nothing more delights a mountain-
eer than a show of pluck, especially in an unlocked for
quarter.
178 UMENTUCKEN CAPTURED BY CU0W8. — HKIl UESCUB.
1 /i
Ml!
I
iM; J
The Indian wives of the trappers were often in great
peril, ns well as their lords. Whenever it was convenient
they followed them on their long marches through dan-
gerous countries. But if the trapper was only going out
for a few days, or if the march before him Avas more than
usually dangerous, the wife remained with the main camp.
During this year of which we are writing, a considera-
ble party had been out on Powder River hunting buffalo,
taking their wives alon{? w ith them. When on the return,
just before reaching camp, Umcntucken was missed from
the cavalcade. She had fallen behind, and been taken
prisoner by a party of twelve Crow Indians. As soon as
she was missed, a volunteer party mounted their buffalo
horses in such haste that they waited not for saddle or bri-
dle, but snatch,ed only a halter, and started back in pursuit.
They had not run a very long distance when they discov-
ered poor Umentucken in the midst of her jubilant captors,
who were delighting their eyes with gazing at her fine
feathers, and promising themselves very soon to pluck the
gay bird, and appropriate her trinkets to their own use.
Their delight was premature. Swift on their heels came
an avenging, as well as a saving spirit. Meek, at the
head of his six comrades, no sooner espied the drooping
form of the Lamb, than he urged his horse to the top of
its speed. The horse was a spirited creature, that seeing
something wrong in all these hasty maneuvers, took fright
and adding terror to good will, ran with the speed of mad-
ness right in amongst the startled Crows, who doubtless
regarded as a great " medicine " so fearless a warrior. It
was now too late to be prudent, and Meek began the bat-
tle by yelling and firing, taking care to hit his Indian.
The other trappers, emulating the bold example of *V '"
leader, dashed into the melee and a chance medlc} >"••
was carried on, in which Umentucken escaped, anc ■^'i^ji'^f^
.'.Jisv.,
AN INSULT TO UMENTUOKEN AVENGED BY MEEK. 179
Crow bit the dust. Finding that they were getting the
worst of tlie fight, the Indians at length took to flight,
and the trappers returned to camp rejoicing, and coinpli-
monting Meek on his gallantry in attacking the Crows
single-handed.
"I took their compliments quite naturally," sa-s Meek,
"nor did I think it war worth while to er-^lam to them
that I couldn't hold my horse."
The ^n^'r.ns are lordly and tyrannical in their treatment
of women, thinking it no shame to beat them cruelly ;
even taking the liberty of striking other women than those
belonging to their own families. While the camp was trav-
eling through the Crow country in the spring of 1836, a
party of that nation paid a visit to Bridger, bringing skins
to trade for blankets and ammunition. The bargaining
went on quite pleasantly for some time ; but one of
the braves who was promenading about camp inspecting
whatever came in his way, chanced to strike Umcntucken
with a whip he carried in his hand, by way of displaying
his superiority to squaws in general, and trappers' wives
in particular. It was an unlucky blow for the brave, for
in another instant he rolled on the ground, shot dead by
a bullet from Meek's gun.
At this rash actthe camp was in confusion. Yells from
the Crows, who took the act as a signal for war ; hasty
([uestions, and cries of command ; arming and shooting.
It was some time before the case could be explained or
understood. The Crows had two or three of their party
shot ; the whites also lost a man. After the ui.premedita-
ted fight was over, and the Crows departed not thoroughly
satisfied with the explanation, Bridger went round to
Meek's lodge.
" Well, you raised a hell of a row in camp ; " said the
commander, rolling out his deep bass voice in the slow
m
n r
180 THE FEMALE ELEMENT — DEATH OP UMENTUCKEK.
monotonous tones which mountain men very quickly ac-
quire from the Indians.
" Very sorry, Bridger ; but couldn't help it No devil
of an Indian shall strike Meek's wife."
" But you got a man killed."
" Sorry for the man ; couldn't help it, though, Bridger."
And in truth it was too late to mend the matter. Fear-
ing, however, that the Crows would attempt to avenge
themselves for the losses they had sustained, Bridger hur-
ried his camp forward, and got out of their neighborhood
as quickly as possible.
So much for the female element in the camp of the
Rocky Mountain trapper. Woman, it is said, has held the
apple of discord, from mother Eve to Umentucken, and
in consonance with this theory, Bridger, doubtless, con-
sidered the latter as the primal cause of the unfortunate
" row in camp," rather than the brutality of the Crow, or
the imprudence of Meek.
But Umentucken's career was nearly run. In the fol-
lowing summer she met her death by a Bannack arrow;
dying like a warrior, although living she was only a woman.
CHAPTER XIII.
1835. The rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Com-
pany seldom took place without combining with its many
wild elements, some other more civilized and refined.
Artists, botanists, travelers, and hunters, from the busy
world outside the wilderness, frequently claimed the com-
panionship, if not the hospitality of the 'fur companies, in
their wanderings over prairies and among mountains. Up
to the year 1835, these visitors had been of the classes
just named ; men traveling either for the love of adven-
ture, to prosecute discoveries in science, or to add to art
the treasure of new scenes and subjects.
But in this year there appeared at rendezvous two gen-
tlemen, who had accompanied the St. Louis Company in
its outward trip to the mountains, whose object was not
the procurement of pleasure, or the improvement of sci-
ence. They had come to found missions among the In-
dians; the iiev. Samuel Parker and Rev. Dr. Marcus
Whitman ; t!' 3 uist a scholarly and fastidious man, and
the other possessing all the boldness, energy, and contempt
of fastidiousness, which would have made him as good a
mountain leader, as he was an energetic servant of the
American Board of Foreign Missions.
Th^ cause which had brought these gentlemen to the
wilderness was a little incident connected with the fur
trade. Four Flathead Indians, in the year 1832, having
heard enough of the Christian religion, from the few de-
w
■ \ Ci
182
BONNEVILLE S ACCOUNT OF THE NEZ PERCB8.
-; i 'i
1 ,;:i
vout men connected with the fur companies, to desire to
know more, performed a winter journey to St. Louis, and
there made inquiry about the white man's religion. This
incident, which to any on'^ acquainted with Indian charac-
ter, would appear a very natural one, when it became
known to Christian churches in the United States, excited
a very lively interest, and seemed to call upon them like
a voice out of heaven, to fly to the rescue of perishing
heathen souls. The Methodist Church was the first to re-
spond. When Wyeth returned to the mountains in 1834,
four missionaries accompanied him, destined for the valley
of the Wallamet River in Oregon. In the following year,
the Presbyterian Church sent out its agents, the two gen-
tlemen above mentioned; one of whom. Dr. Whitman,
subsequently located near Fort Walla- Walla.
The account given by Capt. Bonneville of the Flatheads
and Nez Perces, as he found them in 1832, before mission-
ary labor had been among them, throws some light on the
incident of the journey to St. Louis, which so touched the
Christian heart in the United States. After relatiner his
suiprise at finding that the Nez Perces observed certain
sacred days, he continues : " A few days afterwards, four
of them signified that they were about to hunt. ' What!'
exclaimed the captain, ' without guns or arrows ; and
with only one old spear ? What do you expect to kill?'
They smiled among themselves, but made no answer.
Preparatory to the chase, they performed some religious
riglits, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few short
prayers for safety and success ; then having received the
blessing of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and
departed, leaving the whole party of Christian spectators
amazed and rebuked by this lesson of faith and depend-
ence on a supreme and benevolent Being. Accustomed
as I had heretofore been to find the wretched Indian rev-
AN ENTHUSIASTIC VIEW OF INDIAN CHARACTER. 18$
eling in blood, and stained by every vice which can de-
grade human nature, I could scarcely realize the scene
which I had witnessed. Wonder at such unaffected ten-
derness and piety, where it was least to have been sought,,
contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at
receiving such pure and wholesome instructions from
creatures so far below us in all the arts and comforts
of life.
" Simply to call these people religious," continued Bonne^
ville, " would convey but a faint idea of the deep hue of
piety and devotion which pervades their whole conduct.
Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose,
and their observance of the rites of their religion, are
most uniform and remarkable. They are certainly more
like a nation of saints than a horde of savages."
This was a very enthusiastic view to take of the Nez.
Perce character, which appeared all the brighter to the
Captain, by contrast with the savage life which he had
witnessed in other places, and even by contrast with the
conduct of the white trappers. But the Nez Perces and
Flatheads were, intellectually and morally, an exception
to all the Indian tribes west of the Missouri River. Lewis
and Clarke found them different from any others ; the fur-
traders and the missionaries found them different; and
they remain at this day an honorable example, for probity
and piety, to both savage and civilized peoples.
To account for this superiority is indeed difficult. The
only clue to the cause is in the following statement of
Bonneville's. " It would appear," he says, " that they had
imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic
missionaries and traders who had been among them. They
even had a rude calender of the fasts and festivals of the
Romish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These
184
THE INDIAN S IDEA OF A OOD.
i;n
have become blended with their own wild rites, and pre-
sent a strange medley, civilized and barbarous."
Finding that these people among whom he was thrown
exhibited such remarkable traits of character. Captain
Bonneville exerted himself to make them acquainted with
the history and spirit of Christianity. To these explana-
tions they listened with great eagerness. " Many a time,"
he says, " was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled
with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over
the other, until there was no further room, all listening
with greedy ears to the wonders which the Great Spirit
had revealed to the white man. No other subject gave
them half the satisUiction, or commanded half the atten-
tion ; and but few scenes of my life remain go freshly on
my memory, or are so pleasurably recalled to my contempla-
tion, as these hours of intercourse with a distant and be-
nighted race in the midst of the desert."
It was the interest awakened by these discourses of
Captain Bonneville, and possibly by Smith, and other
traders who happened to fall in with the Nez Perces and
Flatheads, that stimulated those four Flatheads to under-
take the journey to St. Louis in search of information;
and this it was which resulted in the establishment of
missions, both in western Oregon, and among the tribes
inhabiting the cov ntry between the two great branches of
the Columbia.
The trait of Indian character which Bonneville, in his
pleased surprise at the apparent piety of the Nez Perces
and Flatheads, failed to observe, and which the missiona-
ries themselves for a long time remained oblivious to, was
the material nature of their religious views. The Indian
judges of all things by the material results. If he is pos-
sessed of a good natural intelligence and powers of obser-
vation, he soon discovers that the God of the Indian is
but
be
Ind
to
mus
•rHB Indian's religion — material good desired. 185
but a feeble deity ; for does he not permit the Indian to
be defeated in war ; to starve, and to freeze ? Do not the
Indian medicine men often fail to save life, to win battles,
to curse their enemies? The Indian's God, he argues,
must be a good deal of a humbug. He sees the white
men faring much better. They have guns, ammunition,
blankets, knives, everything in plenty ; and they are suc-
cessful in war ; are skillful in a thousand things the Indian
knows nothing of. To be so blest implies a very wise and
powerful Deity. To gain all these things they are eager
to learn about the white man's God ; are willing to do
whatever is necessary to please and propitiate Him. Hence
their attentiveness to the white man's discourse about his
religion. Naturally enough they were struck with won-
der at the doctrine of peace and good will ; a doctrine so
different from the law of blood by which the Indian, in
his natural state, lives. Yet if it is good for the white
men, it must be good for him ; at all events he is anxious
'to try it. '
That is the course of reasoning by which an Indian is
led to inquire into Christianity. It is a desire to better
his physical, rather th.:.n his spiritual condition ; for of the
laai.i he has but a very faint conception. He was accus-
tomed to desire a material Heaven, such a world bevond
the grave, as he could only imagine from his earthly ex-
perience. Heaven was happiness, and happiness was
plenty; therefore the most a good Indian could desire
was to go where there should forevermore be plenty.
Such was the Indian's view of religion, and it could be
no other. Until the wants of the body have been sup-
plied by civilization, the wants of the soul do not develop
themselves: and until then the savage is not prepared
to understand Christianity. This is the law of Nature and
of God. Primeval man was a savage ; and it was little
186 THE FIRST SERMON IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
W ; !
h
fei -1
ii '<
by little, through thousands of years, that Christ was re-
vealed. Every child born, even now, is a savage, and has
to be taught civilization year after year, until he arrives
at the possibility of comprehending spiritual religion. So
every full grown barbarian is a child in moral develop-
ment ; and to expect him to comprehend those mysteries
over which the world has agonized for centuries, is to
commit the gravest error. Into this error fell all the mis-
sionari'^s who came to the wilds that lay beyond the Rocky
iiountains. They undertook to teach religion first, and
more simple matters afterward — building their edifice like
the Irishman's chimney, by holding up the top brick, and
putting the others under it. Failure was the result of
such a process, as the record of the Oregon Missions suffi-
ciently proves.
The reader will pardon this digression — made necessary
by the part which one of the gentlemen present at this
year's rendezvous, was destined to take in the history
which we are writing. Shortly after the arrival of Messrs."
Parker and Whitman, rendezvous broke up. A party, to
which Meek was attached, moved in the directio\ of the
Snake River head-waters, the missionaries accompanying
them, and after making two camps, came on Saturday eve
to Jackson's Little Hole, a small mountain valley near the
larger one commonly known as Jackson's Hole.
On the following day religious services were held in the
Rocky Mountain Camp. A scene more unusual could
hardly have transpired than that of a company of trap-
pers listening to the preaching of the Word of God.
Very little pious reverence i arked the countenances of
that wild and motley congref aon. Curiosity, incredulity,
sarcasm, or a mocking levity, were more plainly percepti-
ble in the exjrression of the men's faces, than either devo- ;
tion or the longing expectancy of men habitually deprived
THE REV. DR. WHITMAN.
187
of what they once highly valued. The Indians alone
showed by their eager listening that they desired to be-
come acquainted with the mystery of the "Unknown
God."
The Rev. Samuel Parker preached, and the men were
as politely attentive as it was in their reckless natures to
be, until, in the midst of the discourse, a band of buifalo
appeared in the valley, when the congregation incon-
tinently broke up, without staying for a benediction, and
every man made haste after his horse, gun, and rope,
leaving Mr. Parker to discourse to vacant ground.
The run was both exciting and successful. About
twenty fine buffaloes were killed, and the choice pieces
brought to camp, cooked and eaten, amidst the merriment,
mixed with something coarser, of the hunters. On this
noisy rejoicing Mr. Parker looked with a sober aspect:
and following the dictates of his religious feeling, he re-
buked the sabbath-breakers quite severely. Better for his
infiuenc-5 among the. men, if he had not done so, or had
not eaten so heartily of the tender-loin afterwards, a cir-
cumstance which his irreverent critics did not fail to re-
mark, to his prejudice ; and upon the principle that the
*' partaker is as bad as the thief," they set down his lecture
on sabbath-breaking as nothing better than pious humbug.
Dr. Marcus Whitman was another style of man. What-
ever he thought of the wild ways -of the mountain-men
he discreetly kept to himself, preferring to teach by ex-
ample rather than precept; and showing no fastidious
contempt for any sort of rough duty he might be called
upon to perform. So aptly indeed had he turned his hand
to all manner of camp service on the journey to the moun-
tains, that this abrogation of clerical dignity had become
a source of solicitude, not to say disapproval and displeas-
ure on the part of his colleague ; and it was agreed be-
il.
'rt
'4
la •'!
188
THE MISSIONARIES RETURN TO THE STATES.
t"ween them that the Doctor should return to the states
with the St. Louis Company, to procure recruits for the
promising field of labor which they saw before them,
while Mr. Parker continued his journey to the Columbia
to decide upon the location of the missionary stations.
The difference of character of the two men was clearly
illustrated by the results of this understanding. Parker
went to Vancouver, where he was hospitably entertained,
and where he could inquire into the workings of the mis-
sionary system as pursued by the Methodist missionaries.
His investigations not proving the labor to his taste, he
sailed the following summer for the Sandwich Islands, and
thence to New York ; leaving only a brief note for Doctor
Whitman, when he, with indefatigable exertions, arrived
that season among the Nez Perces with a missionary com-
pany, eager for the work which they hoped to make as
great as they believed it to be good.
yaw out TBB CULUMBIA RIVEB.
CHAPTER XIV.
Prom the mountains about the head-waters of the
Snake River, Meek returned, with Bridger's brigade to
the Yellowstone country, where he fell into the hands of
the Crows. The story as he relates it, is as follows :
" I war trapping on the Rocky Fork of the Yellows one.
I had been out from camp five days ; and war solitary and
alone, when I war discovered by a war party of Crows.
They had the prairie, and I war forced to run for the
Creek bottom ; but the beaver had throwed the water out
and made dams, so that my mule mired down. While I
war struggling in the marsh, the Indians came after me,
with tremendous yells; firing a random shot now and
then, as they closed in on me.
" When they war within about two rods of me, I brought
old Sally ^ that is my gun, to my face, ready to fire, and
then die ; for I knew it war death this time, unless Provi-
dence interfered to save me : and I didn't think Provi-
dence would do it. But the head chief, when he saw the
warlike looks of Sally ^ called out to me to put down my
gun, and I should live.
"Well, I liked to live, — being then in the prime of life;
and though it hurt me powerful, I resolved to part with
Sally. I laid her down. As I did so, the chief picked her
up, and one of the braves sprang at me with a spear, and
would have run me through, but the chief knocked him
down with the butt of my gun. Then they led me forth
to the high plain on the south side of the stream. There
190
QUESTIONED KY TUB CHIEF.
>. I
ilfW
they called a halt, and I was given in charge of three wo-
men, while the warriors formed a ring to smoke and con-
sult. This gave me an opportunity to count them: they
numbered one hundred and eighty-seven men, nine boys,
and three women.
"After a smoke of three long hours, the chief, who war
named 'The Bold,' called me in the ring, and said:
" 'I have known the whites for a long time, and I know
them to be great liars, deserving death ; but if you will
tell the truth, you shall live.' '
"Then I thought to myself, they will fetch the truth
out of me, if thar is any in me. But his highness con-
tinued :
" ' Tell me whar are the whites you belong to ; and what
is your captain's name.'
"I said 'Bridger is my captain's name; or, in the Crow
tongue, Casapy,^ the 'Blanket chief At this answer the
chief seemed lost in thought. At last he asked me —
" ' How many men has he ?'
"I thought about telling the truth and living; but I
said 'forty,' which war a tremendous lie; for thar war
two hundred and forty. At this answer The Bold laughed:
"'We will make them poor,' said he; 'and you shall
live, but they shall die.'
"I thought to myself, ' hardly ;' but I said nothing. He
then asked me whar I war to meet the camp, and I told
him : — and then how many days before the camp would
be thar ; which I answered truly, for I wanted them to
find the camp.
"It war now late in the afternoon, and thar war a great
bustle, getting ready for the march to meet Bridger. Two
big Indians mounted my mule, but the women made me
pack moccasins. The spies started first, and after awhile
the main party. Seventy warriors traveled ahead of me:
BIIIDGERS CAMP DISCOVERED.
191
I war placed with the women and boys ; and after us the
balance of the braves. As we traveled along, the women
would prod me with sticks, and laugh, and say ' Masta
Sheela,' (which means white man,) 'Masta sheela very
poor now.' The fair sex war very much amused.
" We traveled that way till midnight, the two big bucks
riding my mule, and I packing moccasins. Then we
camped ; the Indians in a ring, with me in the centre, to
keep me safe. I didn't sleep very well that night. I'd a
heap rather been in some other place.
"The next morning we started on in the same order as
befo'-e • and the squaws making fun of me all day ; but I
kept mighty quiet. When we stopped ' to cook that eve-
ning, I war set to work, and war head cook, and head
waiter too. The third and the fourth day it war the same.
I felt pretty bad when w e struck camp on the last day : for
I knew we must be coming near to Bridger, and that if
any thing should go wrong, my life would pay the forfeit.
"On the afternoon of the fourth day, the spies, who
war in advance, looking out from a high hill, made a sign
to the main party. In a moment all sat down. Directly
they got another sign, and then they got up and moved
on. I war as well up in Indian signs as they war ; and I
knew they had discovered white men. What war worse,
I knew they would soon discover that I had been lying to
them. All I had to do then war to trust to luck. Soon we
came to the top of the hill, which overlooked the Yellow-
stone, from which I could see the plains below extending
as far as the eye could reach, and about tlree miles oflf,
the camp of my friends. My heart beat double quick
about that time ; and I once in a while put my hand to
my head, to feel if my scalp war thar.
"While I war watching our camp, I discovered that the
horse guard had seen us. for I knew the sign he would
13
1 fill 'I
\m til i ■ !!
192
BKJNALINO TH£; HORSE GUARD.
'^tl
ii
u
make if he discovered Indians. I thought the camp a
splendid sight that evening. It made a powerful show to
me, who did not expect ever to see it after that day. And
it tvar a fine sight any how, from the hill whar I stood.
About two hundred and fifty men, and women and chil-
dren in great numbers, and about a thousand horses and
mules. Then the beautiful plain, and the sinking sun;
and the herds of buffalo that could not be numbered;
and the cedar hills, covered with elk, — I never saw so fine
a sight as all that looked to me then !
"When I turned my eyes on that savage Crow band,
and saw the chief standing with his hand on his mouth, lost
in amazement ; and beheld the warriors' tomahawks and
spears glittering in the sun, my heart war very little.
Directly the chief turned to me with a horrible scowL
Said he :
" 'I promised that you should live if you told the truth;
but you have told me a great lie.'
" Then the warriors gathered around, with their toma-
hawks in their hands ; but I war showing off very brave,
and kept my eyes fixed on the horse-guard who war ap-
proaching the hill to drive in the horses. This drew the
attention of the chief, and the warriors too. Seeing that
the guard war within about two hundred yards of us, the
chief turned to me and ordered me to tell him to come
up. I pretended to do what he said; but instead of that
I howled out to him to stay off, or he would be killed;
and to tell Bridger to try to treat with them, and get me
away.
"As quick as he could he ran to camp, and in a few
minutes Bridger appeared, on his large white horse. He
came up to within three hundred yards of us, and called
out to me, asking who the Indians war. I answered
BUCCESSFUL STRATEGY CAPTURE OF LlTTLE-(jiUN. 193
* Crows.' lie then told me to say to the chief he wished
him to send one of his sub-chiefs to smoke with him.
''All this time my heart beat terribly hard. I don't
know now why they didn't kill me at once ; but the head
chief seemed overcome with surprise. When I repeated
to him what Bridger said, he reflected a moment, and then
ordered the second chief, called Little-Gun, to go and
smoke with Bridger. But they kept on preparing for
war ; getting on their paint and feathers, arranging their
scalp locks, selecting their arrows, and getting their am-
munition ready.
"While this war going on, Little-Gun had approached
to within about a hundred yards of Bridger ; when, ac-
cording to the Crow laws of war, each war forced to strip
himself, and proceed the remaining distance in a state of
nudity, and kiss and embrace. While this interesting cere-
mony war being performed, five of Bridger's men had
followed him, keeping in a ravine until they got within
shooting distance, when they showed themselves, and cut
off the return of Little-Gun, thus making a 'prisoner of
him.
" If you think my heart did not jump up when I saw
that, you think wxong. , I knew it war kill or cure, row. '
Every Indian snatched a weapon, and fierce threats war
howled against me. But all at once about a hundred of
our trappers appeared on the scene. At the same time
Bridger called to me, to tell me to propose to the chief to
exchange me for Little- Gun. I explained to The Bold
what Bridger wanted to do, and he sullenly*^ — ented:
for, he said, he could not afford to give a cLief for one
white dog's scalp. I war then allowed to go towards my
camp, and Little-Gun towards his; anJ. the -escue I hardly
hoped for war accomplished.
"In the evening the chief, with forty of his braves, vis-
I
191
BESEIGED Br BBARS— A LAZY TRAPPER.
ited Bridger and made a treaty of three months. They
said they war formerly at war with the whites ; but that
they desired to be friendly with them now, so that to-
gether they might fight the Blackfeet, who war every-
body's enemies. As for me, they returned me my mule,
gun, and beaver packs, and said my name should be
Shiam Shasptma, for I could out-lie the CroAvs."
In December, Bridger's command went into winter
quarters in the bend of the Yellowstone. Buffalo, elk,
and bear were in great abundance, all that fall and winter.
Before they went to camp. Meek, Kit Carson, Hawkins,
and Doughty were trapping together on the Yellowstone,
about sixty miles below. They had made their temporary
camp in the ruins of an old fort, the walls of which wer?
about six feet high. One evening, after coming in fi-om
setting their traps, they discovered three large grizzly
bears in the river bottom, not more than half a mile off,
and B^awkins went out to shoot one. He was successful
in killing one at the first shot, when the other two, taking
fright, ran towards the fort. As they came near enough
to show that they were likely to invade camp, Meek and
Carson, not caring to have a bear fight, clambered up a
cotton-wood tree close by, at the same time advising
Doughty to do the same. But Doughty was tired, and
lazy besides, and concluded to take his chances where he
was ; so he rolled himself in his blanket and laid quite
still. The bears, on making the fort, reared up on their
hind legs and looked in as if meditating taking it for a
defence.
The sight of Doughty lying rolled in his blanket, and
the monster grizzlys inspecting the fort, caused the two
trappers who were safely perched in the cotton-wood to
make merry at Doughty's expense ; saymg all the mirth-
provoking things they could, and then advising him not
THE DECOY OF TJE DELAWAREa.
195
to laugh, for fear the baars should seize him. Poor
Doughty, agonizing between suppressed laughter and
growing fear, contrived to lie still however, while the
bears gpzed upward at the speakers in wonder, and alter-
nately at ihe suspicious looking bundle inside the fort.
Not being able to make out the meaning of either, they
gave at last a grunt of dissatisfaction, and ran off into a
thicket to consult over these strange appearances; leaving
the trappers to enjoy the incident as a very good joke.
For a long time after, Doughty was reminded, how close
to the grouL'i he laid, when the grizzlys paid their com-
pliments to him. Such were the every-day incidents from
which the mountain-men contrived to derive their rude
jests, and laughter-provoking reminiscences.
A few days after this incident, while the same party
were trapping a few miles farther down the river, on their
way to camp, they fell in with some Delaware Indians,
who said they had discovered signs of Blackfeet, and
wanted to borrow t-ome horses to decoy them. To this
the trappers verj' willingly agreed, and they were fur-
nished with two horses. The Delawares then went to the
spot where signs had been discovered, and tying the
horses, laid fl8,t down on the ground near them, concealed
by the grass or willows. They had not long to wait be-
fore a Blackfoot was »een stealthily advancing through the
thicket, confident in the belief that he should gain a cou-
ple of horses while their supposed owners were busy with
their traps.
But just as he laid his hand on the bridle of the first
one, crack went the rifles of the Delawares, and there was
one less Blackfoot thief on the scent after trappers. As
soon as they could, after this, the party mounted and rode
to camp, not sto^ ping by the way, lest the main body of
Blackfeet should discover the deed and seek for vengeance.
•'■M'i ' ^
196
THE ISHMAELITB OP THE WILDERNESS.
Truly indeed, was the Blackfoot the Ishmael of the wil-
derness, whose hand was against every man, and every
man's hand against him.
The Rocky Mountain Company passed the first part of
the winter in peace and plenty in the Yellowstone camp,
unannoyed either by enemies or rivals. Hunting buffalo,
feeding tleir horses, playing games, and telling stories, oc-
cupied the entire leisure of these months of repose. Not
only did the mountain-men recount their own adventures,
but when " these were exhausted, those whose memories
served them rehearsed the tales they had read in their
youth. Robinson Crusoe and the Arabian Nights Enter-
tainment, were read over again by the light of memory;
and even Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progre'i was made to recite
like a sensation novel, and was quite as well enjoyed.
1836. In January, however, this repose was broken in
upon by a visit from the Blackfeet. As their visitations
were never of a friendly character, so then they were not
bent upon pacific rites and ceremonies, such as all the rest
of the world find pleasure in, but came in full battle array
to try their fortunes in war against the big camp of the
whiles. They had evidently made great preparation.
Their warriors numbered eleven hundred, got up in the
top of the Blackfoot fashions, and armed with all manner
of parage and some civilized weapons. But Bridger was
T/repared for them, although their numbers were so over-
whelming. He built a fort, had the animals corraled, and
put himself on the defensive in a prompt and thorough man-
ner. This made the Blackfeet cautious; they too built
forts of cotton-wood in the shape of lodges, ten men to
each fort, and carried on a skirmishing fight for two days,
when finding there was nothing to be gained, they de-
parted, neither side having sustained much loss; the
whites losing only two men by this grand Blackfoot army.
MARCH THROUGH THE CROW COUNTRY.
197
Soon after this attack Bridger broke camp, and traveled
up the Yellowstone, through the Crow country. It was
while on this march that Umentucken yas struck by a
Crow, and Meek put the whole camp in peril, by shooting
him. They passed oh to the Big Horn and Little Horn
rivers, down through the Wind River valley and through
the South Pass to Green River.
While in that country, there occurred the fight with the
Bannacks in which Umentucken was killed. A small party
of Nez Perces had lost their horses by the thieving of the
Bannacks. They came into camp and complained to the
whites, who promised them their protection, should they
be able to recover their horses. Accordingly the Nez Per-
ces started after the thieves, and by dogging their camp,
succeeded in re-capturing their horses and getting back
to Bridger's camp with them. In order to divert the
vengeance of the Bannacks from themselves, they pre-
sented their horses to the whites, and a very fine one to
Bridger.
All went well for a time. The Bannacks went on their
way to hunt buffalo ; but they treasured up their wrath
against the supposed white thieves who had stolen the
horses which they had come by so honestly. On their re-
turn from the hunt, having learned by spies that the horses
were in the camp of the whites, they prepared for war.
Early one morning they made their appearance mounted
and armed, and making a dash at the camp, rode through
it with the usual yells and frantic gestures. The attack
was entirely unexpected. Bridger stood in front of his
lodge, holding his horse by a lasso, and the head chief
rode over it, jerking it out of his hand. At this unprece-
dented insult to his master, a negro named Jim, cook to
the Booshways, seized a rifle and shot the chief dead. At
the same time, an arrow shot at random struck Umen-
Tff
198
PUNISHMENT OF THE BANNACKS.
ifl f
ii
i
tucken in the breast, and the joys and sorrows of the
Mo'antain Lamb were over foreverraore.
The killing of a head chief always throws an Indian
war party into confusion, and negro Jim was greatly elated
at this signal feat of his. The trappers, who were as
much surprised at the suddenness of the assault as it is in
the mountain-man's nature to be, quickly recovered them-
selves. In a few moments the men were mounted and in
motion, and the disordered Bannacks were obliged to fly
towards their village, Bridger's company pursuing them.
All the rest of that day the trappers fought the Ban-
nacks, driving them out of their village and plundering
it, and forcing them to take refuge on an island in the
river. Even there they were not safe, the guns of the
mountain-men picking them off, from their stations on the
river banks. Umentucken was well avenged that day.
All night the Indians remained on the island, where
sounds of wailing were heard continually ; and when
morning came one of their old women appeared bearing the
pipe of peace. " You have killed all our warriors," she
said; "do you now want to kill the women? If you
wish to smoke with women, I have the pipe."
Not caring either to fight or to smoke with so feeble a rep-
resentative of the Bannacks, the trappers withdrew. But
it was the last war party that nation ever sent against the
mountain-men ; though in later times they have by their
atrocities avenged the losses of that day.
While awaiting, in the Green River valley, the arrival
of the St. Louis Company, the Rocky Mountain and North
American companies united ; after which Captain Sublette
and his brother returned no more to the mountains. The
new firm was known only as the American Fur Company,
the other having dropped its title altogether. The object
of their consolidation was by combining their capital and
arep-
But
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their
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i
-}
AN EXCURSION.
199
experience to strengthen their hands against the Hudson's-
Bay Company, which now had an establishment at Fort
Hall, on the Snake River. By this new arrangement,
Bridger and Fontenelle commanded ; and Dripps was to
be the traveling partner who was to go to St. Louis for
goods. '■ ' ■' • • '
After the conclusion of this agreement, Dripps, with the
restlessness of the true mountain-man, decided to set out,
with a small party of equally restless trappers, always
eager to volunteer for any undertaking promising either
danger or diversion, to look for the St. Louis Company
which was presumed to be somewhere between the Black
Hills and Green River. According to this determination
Dripps, Meek, Carson, Newell, a Flathead chief named
Victor, and one or two others, set out on the search for
the expected company.
It happened, however, that a war party of a hundred
Crows were out on the trail before them, looking perhaps
for the same party, and the trappers had not made more
than one or two camps before they discovered signs which
satisfied them of the neighborhood of an enemy. At
their next camp on the Sandy, Meek and Carson, with the
caution and vigilance peculiar to them, kept their saddles
on their horses, and the horses tied to themselves by a
long rope, so that on the least unusual motion of the ani-
mals they should be readily informed of the disturbance.
Their precaution was not lost. Just after midnight had
given place to the first faint kindling of dawn, their ears
were stunned by the simultaneous discharge of a hundred
guns, and the usual furious din of the war-whoop and yell.
A stampede immediately took place of all the horses ex-
cepting those of Meek and Carson. '^ Every man for himself
and God for us all," is the motto of the mountain-man in
case of an Indian attack ; nor did our trappers forget it
m
200
INTEllCKPTED BY CROWS A SCATTERED CAMP.
•on this occasion. Quickly mounting, they put their horses
to their speed, which was not checked until they had left
the Sandy far behind them. Continuing on in the direc-
tion of the proposed meeting with the St. Louis Company,
they made their first camp on the Sweetwater, where they
fell in with Victor, the Flathead chief, who had made his
way on foot to this place. One or two others came into
camp that night, and the following day this portion
•of the party traveled on in company until within about
five miles of Independence Rock, when they were once
more charged on by the Indians, who surrounded them in
€uch a manner that they were obliged to turn back to
escape.
Again Meek and Carson made off, leaving their dis-
mounted comrades to their own best devices. Finding
that with so many Indians on the trail, and only two horses,
there was little hope of being able to accomplish their
journey, these two lucky ones made all haste back to camp.
On Horse Creek, a few hours travel from rendezvous, they
came up with Newell, who after losing his horse had fled
in the direction of the main camp, but becoming bewil-
dered had been roaming about until he was quite tired
out, and on the point of giving up. But as if the Creek
where he was found meant to justify itself for having so
inharmonious a name, one of their own horses, which had
escaped from the Crows was found quietly grazing on its
"banks, and the worn out fugitive at once remounted.
Strange as it may appear, not one of the party was killed,
the others returning to camp two days later than Meek
and Carson, the worse for their expedition only by the loss
of their horses, and rather an unusually fatigued and for-
lorn aspect
ij'i.^
CHAPTER XV.
1836. ' Wnn^E the resident partners of the consolidated
company waited at the rendezvous for the arrival of the
supply trains from St. Louis, word came by a messenger
sent forward, that the American Company under Fitzpat-
rick, had reached Independence Rock, and was pressing
forward. The messenger also brought the intelligence
that two other parties were traveling in company with the
fur company ; that of Captain Stuart, who had been to
New Orleans to winter, and that of Doctor Whitman, one
of the missionaries who had visited the mountains the year
previous. In this latter party, it was asserted, there were
two white ladies.
This exhilarating news immediately inspired some of the
trappers, foremost among whom was Meek, v.'ith a desire
to be the first to meet and greet the on-coming caravan ;
and especially to salute the two white women who were
bold enough to invade a mountain camp. In a very short
time Meek, with half-a-dozen comrades, and ten or a dozen
Nez Perces, were mounted and away, on their self-imposed
errand of welcome ; the trappers because they were
*' spoiling" for a fresh excitement; and the Nez Perces
because the missionaries were bringing them information
concerning the powerful and beneficent Deity of the white
men. These latter also were charged with a letter to
Doctor Whitman from his former associate, Mr. Parker.
On the Sweetwater about two days' travel from camp
rm,
202 TUii UAUAVAN WELCOMED BY A PARTY OF TRAPPERS.
the caravan of the advancing company was discovered,
and the trappers prepared to give them a characteristic
greeting. To prevent mistakes in recognizing them, a
white flag was lioisted on one of their guns, and the word
was given to start. Then over the brow of a hill they
made their appearance, riding with that mad speed only
an Indian or a trapper can ride, yelling, whooping, dash-
ing forward with frantic and threatening gestures ; their
dress, noises, and motions, all so completely savage that
the white men could not have been distinguished from
the red.
The first eifect of their onset was what they probably
intended. The uninitiated travelers, including the mis-
sionaries, believing they were about to be attacked by
Indians, prepared for defence, nor could be persuaded that
the preparation was unnecessary until the guide pointed
out to them the white flag in advance. At the assurance
that the flag betokened friends, apprehension was changed
to curiosity and intense interest. Every movement of the
wild brigade became fascinating. On they came, riding
faster and faster, yelling louder and louder, and gesticu-
lating more and more madly, until, as they met and passed
the caravan, they discharged their guns in one volley over
the heads of the company, as a last finishing /ew dejoie;
and suddenly wheeling rode bad to the front as wildly
as they had come. For could this first brief display con-
tent the crazy cavalcade. After reaching the front, they
rode back and forth, and around and around the caravan,
which had returned their salute, showing ofi" their feats of
horsemanship, and the knowing tricks of their horses to-
gether ; hardly stopping to exchange questions and an-
swers, but seeming really intoxicated with delight at the
meeting. What strange emotions filled the breasts of the
lady missionaries, when they beheld among whom their
CURIOSITY OF THE INDIANS.
203
lot was cast, may now be faintly outlined by a vivid
imagination, but have never been, perhaps never could be
put into words.
The caravan on leaving the settlements had consisted
of nineteen laden carts, each drawn by two mules driven
tandem, and one light wagon, belonging to the American
Company ; two wagons with two mules to each, belonging to
Capt. Stuart; and one light two-hprse wagon, and one four-
horse freight wagon, belonging to the missionaries. How-
ever, all the wagons had been left behind at Fort Laramie,
except those of the missionaries, and one of Capt. Stuart's;
so that the three that remained in the train when it reached
the Sweetwater were alone in the enjoyment of the Nez
Perces' curiosity concerning them ; a curiosity which they
divided between them and the domesticated cows and
calves belonging to the missionaries: another proof, as
they considered it, of the superior 'power of the white
man's God, who could give to the whites the ability to tame
wild animals to their uses.
But it was towards the two missionary ladies, Mrs. Wliit-
man and Mrs. Spalding, that the chief interest was directed;
an interest that was founded in the Indian mind upon won-
der, admiration, and awe ; and in the minds of the trappers
upon the powerful recollections awakened by seeing in
their midst two refined Christian women, with the complex-
ion and dress of their own mothers and sisters. United
to this startling effect of memory, was respect for the re-
ligious devotion which had inspired them to undertake the
long and dangerous journey to the Rocky Mountains, and
also a sentiment of pity for what they knew only too well
yet remained to be encountered by those deKcate women
in the prosecution of their duty.
Mrs. Whitman, who was in fine health, rode the greater
parf of the journey on horseback. She was a large, stately,
w^
204
THE MISSIONARY LADIES.
: :f '^"'
fair-skinned woman, with blue eyes and light auburn, al-
most golden hair. Her manners were at once dignified
and gracious. She was, both by nature and education a
lady ; and had a lady's appreciation of all that was cour-
teous and refined ; yet not without an element of romance
and heroism in her disposition strong enough to have
impelled her to undertake a missionary's life in the wil-
derness.
Mrs. Spalding was a diiferent type of woman. Talented,
and refined in her nature, she was less pleasing in exterior,
and less attached to that which was superficially pleasing
in others. But an indifference to outsid6 appearances was
in her case only a sign of her absorption in the work she
had taken in hand. She possessed the true missionary
spirit, and the talent to make it useful in an eminent de-
gree; never thinking of herself, or the impression she
made upon others ; yet withal very firm and capable of
command. Her health, which was always rather delicate,
had suffered much from the fatigue of the journey, and
the constant diet of frejli meat, and meat only, so that she
was compelled at last to abandon horseback exercise, and
to keep almost entirely t(' the light wagon of the mission-
aries.
As might be expected, the trappers turned from the con-
templation of the pale, dark-haired occupant of the wagon,
with all her humility and gentleness, to observe and
admire the more striking figure, and more affably attractive
manners of Mrs. Whitman. Meek, who never lost an
opportunity to see and be seen, was seen riding alongside
Mrs. Whitman, answering her curious inquiries, and enter-
taining her with stories of Blackfeet battles, and encoun-
ters with grizzly bears. Poor lady ! could she have looked
into the future about which she was then so curious, she
would have turned back appalled, and have fled withfiran*
PREPARATIONS IN THE INDIAN VILLAGE.
205
tic fear to the home of her grieving parenta How could
she then behold in the gay and boastful mountaineer,
whose peculiarities of dress and speech so much diverted
her, the very messenger who was to bear to the home of
her girlhood the sickening tale of her bloody sacrifice to
savage superstition and revenge ? Yet so had fate de-
creed it.
When the trappers and Nez Perces had slaked their thirst
for excitement by a few hours' travel in company with the
Fur Company's and Missionary's caravan, they gave at
length a parting display of horsemanship, and dashed off
on the return trail to carry to camp the earliest news. It
was on their arrival in camp that the Nez PerQe and Flat-
head village, which had its encampment at the rendezvous
ground on Green River, began to make preparations for
the reception of the missionaries. It was then that Indian
finery was in requisition ! Then the Indian women combed
and braided their long black hair, tying the plaits with
gay-colored ribbons, and the Indian braves tied anew
their streaming scalp-locks, sticking them full of flaunting
eagle's plumes, and not despising a bit of ribbon either.
Paint was in demand both for the rider and his horse. Gay
blankets, red and blue, buckskin fringed shirts, worked
with beads and porcupine quills, and handsomely embroi-
dered moccasins, were eagerly sought after. Guns were
cleaned and burnished, and drums and fifes put in tune.
After a day of toilsome preparation all was ready for
the grand reception in the camp of the Nez Percea Word
was at length given that the caravan was in sight. There
was a rush for horses, and in a few moments the Indians
were mounted and in line, ready to charge on the advanc-
ing caravan. When the command of the chiefs was given
to start, a simultaneous chorus of yells and whoops burst
forth, accompanied by the deafening din of the war-drum.
im^
206
ENTHUSIASTIC TIECEPTION.
ri ! ■ ■ <
the discharge of fire-arms, and the clatter of the whole
€avalcade, which was at once in a mad gallop toward the
on-coming train. Nor did the yelling, whooping, drum-
ming, and firing cease until within a few yards of the
train, ' • ^
All this demoniac hub- bub was highly complimentary
toward those for whom it was intended; but an unfortu-
nate ignorance ':f Indian customs caused the missionaries
to fail in appreciating the honor intended them. Instead
of tryii'g to reciprocate the noise by an attempt at imitat-
ing it, the missionary camp was alarmed at the first burst
and at once began to drive in their cattle and prepare for
an attack. . As the missionary party was in the rear of the
train they succeeded in getting together their loose stock
before the Nez Perces had an opportunity of making them-
selves known, so that the leaders of the Fur Company, and
Captain Stuart, had the pleasp^'e of a hearty laugh .at their
expense, for the fright they had received.
A general shaking of hands followed the abatement of
the first surprise, the Indian women saluting Mrs. Whitman
and Mr^. Spalding with a kiss, and the missionaries were
escorted to their camping ground near the Nez Perce en-
campment. Here the whole village again formed in fine,
And a more formal introduction of the missionaries took
place, after which they w^ere permitted to go into camp.
When the intention of the Indians became known. Dr.
Whitman, who was the leader of the missionary party, was
boyishly delighted with the reception which had been
given him. His frank, hearty, hopeful nature augured
much good from the enthusiasm of the Indians. If his
estimation of the native virtues of the savages was much
too high, he suffered with those whom he caused to suffer
for his belief, in the years which followed. Peace to the
iishes of a good man ! And honor to his associates, whose
MR. AND MRS. SPALDING MR. GRAY.
207
hearts were in the cause they had undertaken of Christian-
izing the Indians. Two of them still live — one of whom,
Mr. Spalding, has conscientiously labored and deeply suf-
fered for the faith. Mr Gray, who was an unmarried man,
returned the following year to the States, for a wife, and
settled for a time among the Indians, but finally abandoned
the missionary service, and removed to the Wallamet val-
ley. These five persons constituted the entire force of
teachers who could be induced at that time to devote
tlieir lives to the instruction of the sa.iges in the neigh-
borhood of the Rocky Mountains.
The trappers, and gentlemen of the Fur Company, and
Captain. Stuart, had been passive but interested spectators
of the scene between the Indians and the missionaries.
When the excitement had somewhat subsided, and tho
various camps had become' settled in their places, the tents
of the white ladies were beseiged with visitors, both ci\ il-
ized and savage. These ladies, who were making an en-
deavor to acquire a knowledge of the Nez Perce tongue
ill order to commence their instructions in the language
of the natives, could have made very little progress, had
their purpose been less strong than it was. Mrs. Spalding
perhaps succeeded better than Mrs. Whitman in the diffi-
cult study of the Indian dialect. She seemed to attract
the natives about her by the ease and kindness of her
manner, especially the native women, who, seeing she was
an invalid, clung to her rather than to her more lofty and
self-asserting associate.
On the contrary, the leaders of the American Fur Com-
pany, Captain Wyeth and Captain Stuart, paid Mrs. Whit-
man the most marked and courteous attentions. She shone
the bright particular star of that Rocky Mountain encamp-
ment, softening the hearts and the manners of all who
came within her womanly influence. Not a gentleman
14
ft I
jl
>:.,•!
Hi
=r-^
208 WOMANLY INFLUENCES IN THE RC .KY MOUNTAINS.
among them but felt her silent command upon him to be
his better self while she remained in his vicinity ; not a
trapper or camp-keeper but respected the presence of
womanhood and piety. But while the leaders paid court
to her, the bashful trappers contented themselves with
promenading before her tent. Should they succed in
catching her eye, they never failed to touch their ber
skin caps in their most studiously graceful mariner, thouga
that should prove so dubious as to bring a mischievous
smile to the blue eyes of the observant lady.
But our friend Joe Meek did not belong by nature to
the bashful brigade. He was not content with disporting
himself in his best trapper's toggery in front of a lady's
tent. He became a not infrequent visitor, and amused
Mrs. Whitman with the best of his mountain adventures,
related in his soft, slow, yet smooth and firm utterance,
and with many a merry twinkle of his mirthful dark eyes.
In more serious moments he spoke to her of the ftiture,.
and of his determination, sometime, to "settle down."
When she inquired if he had fixed upon any spot ";7hich
in his imagination he could regard as "home he replied
that he could noi content himself to return to civilized life>
but thought that when he gave up "bar fighting and In-
jun fighting" he should go down to the Wallamet valley
and see what sort of life he could make of it thero. How
he lived up to this determination w"li be seen her" 'f ;
The missionaries remained at the rendezvous long enough
to T-ecruit their own strength and that of their stock, and
to restore to something like health the invalid M\s. Spald-
ing, who, on changing her diet to dried meat, which the
resident partners were able to supply- he oitmixt'iccd rap-
idly to improve. Letters were written dnd givcu io Capt
Wyeth to cany home to the States. The Captain had
completed his sale of Fort Hall and the goods it contained
THE MISSIONARIES RENEW THEIR JOURNEY.
209
to the Hudson's B ly Company only a short, time previous,
and was now about to abandon the effort to establish any
enterprise either on the Columbia or in the Rocky Moun-
tains. He had, however, executed his threat of the year
previous, and punished the bad faith of the Rocky Moun-
tain Company by placing them in direct competition with
the Hudson's Bay Companv.
The missionaries now prepared for their journey to the
Columbia River. According to the advice of the moun-
tain-men the heaviest wagon was left at the rendezvous,
together with every heavy article that could be dispensed
with. But Dr. Whitman refused to leave the light ^/agon,
although assured he would never be able to get it to the
Columbia, nor even to the Snake River. The good Doc-
tor had an immense fund of determination when there was
an object to be gained or a principle involved. The only
i ';;r-:ons who did not oppose wagon transportation were
rh) Indians. They sympathised with his determination,
' ' t: f^ave him their assistance. The evidences of a differ-
1' h.A highi3r civilization than they had ever seen were
heivl xu great reverence by them. The wagons, the do-
mestic cattle, especially the cows and calves, were always
objects of great interest with them. Therefore they freely
gave their assistance, and a sufficient uumber remained
behind to Ir i\p the Doctor, wliile the main party of both
missionaries and Indians, having bidden the Fur Company
and others farewell, proceeded to join the camp of two
FuiL on's Bay traders a few miles on their way.
The two traders, whose camp they now joined, were
named McLeod and McKay. The latter, Thomas McKay,
was the half-breed son of that unfortunate McKay in Mr.
Astor's service, who perished on board the Tonqum, as re-
lated in Irving's Astoria. He was one of the bravest
and most skillful partisans m the employ of the Hudson's
mwT
210
THE CAMP OF THE HUDSON S BAY TRADERS.
'i , i-'
'{ it
Bay Company. McLeod had met the missionaries at the
American rendezvous and invited them to travel in his
company ; an ofifer which they were glad to accept, as it
secure'"' +hem ample protection and other more trifling
benefits, es some society other than the Indians.
By dim great perseverance, Doctor Whitman con-
trived to keep up with the camp day after day, though
often coming in very late and very weary, until the party-
arrived at Fort Hall. At the fort the baggage was again
reduced as much as possible ; and Doctor Whitman was
compelled by the desertion of his teamster to take off two
wheels of his wagon and transform it into a cart which
could be more easily propelled in difficult places. With
this he proceeded as far as the Boise River where the
Hudson's Bay Company had a small fort or trading-post ;
but here again he was so strongly urged to relinquish the
idea of taking his wagon to the Columbia, that after much
discussion he consented to leave it at Fort Boise until
some future time when unencumbered by goods or pas-
sengers he might return for it.
Arrived at the crossing of the Snake River, Mrs. Whit-
man and Mrs. Spalding were treated to a new mode of fer-
riage, which even in their varied experience they had
never before met with. This new ferry was nothing more
or less than a raft made of bui:dles of bulrushes woven
together by grass ropes. Upon this frail flat boat the
passengers were obliged to stretch themselves at length
while an Indian swam across and drew it after him by a
rope. As the waters of the Snake River are rapid and
often "dancing mad," it is easy to conjecture that the
ladies were ill at ease on their bulrush ferry.
On went the party from the Snake River through the
Grand Ronde to the Blue Mountains. The cr^^ssing here
was somewhat difficult but accomplished in safety. The ,
■■■ i
THE MISSIONARIES' LAND OF PROMISE.
m
descent from the Blue Mountains on the west side gave
the missionaries their first view of the country they had
come to possess, and to civilize and Christianize. That
view was beautiful and grand — as goodly a prospect as
longing eyes ever beheld this side of Canaan. Before
them lay a country spread out like a map, with the wind-
ings of its rivers marked by fringes of trees, and its bound-
aries fixed by mountain ranges above which towered the
snowy peaks of
Mt. Hood, Mt.
Adams, and Mt.
Rainier. Far
away could be
traced the
course of the
Columbia ; and
over all the mag-
nificent scene
glowed the red
rays of sunset,
tinging the dis-
tant blue of the
mountains until
they seemed
shrouded in a
veil of violet
mist. It were
not strange that
■with the recep-
tion given them by the Indians, and with this bird's-eye
view of their adopted country, the hearts of the missiona-
ries beat high with hope.
The descent from the Blue Mountains brought the party
out on the Umatilla River, where they camped, Mr. McLeod
DESOENDINO TUB BLUB MOUNTAINS.
WW
f
It'
212 A VISIT TO FORT VANCOUVER — KIND RECEPTION,
parting company with them at this place to hasten for-
ward to Fort Walla- Walla, and prepare for their recep-
tion. After two more days of slow and toilsome travel
with cattle whose feet were cut and sore from the sharp
rocks of the mountains, the company arrived safely at
Walla-Walla fort, on the third of September. Here
they found Mr. McLeod, and Mr. Panbram who had charge
of that post.
Mr. Panbram received the missionary party with every
token of respect, and of pleasure at seeing ladies among
them. The kindest attentions were lavished upon them
from the first moment of their arrival, when the ladies
were lifted from their horses, to the time of their depar-
ture ; the apartments belonging to the fort being assigned
to them, and all that the place afforded of comfortable
living place^ at their disposal. Here, for the first time in
several months, they enjoyed the luxury of bread — a favor
for which the suflfering Mrs. Spalding was especially gi'ate-
ful.
At Walla- Walla the missionaries were informed that
they were expected to visit Vancouver, the head-quarters
of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Lower Columbia.
After resting for two days, it was determined to make this
visit before selecting places for mission work among the
Indians. Accordingly the party embarked in the compa-
ny's boats, for the voyage down the Columbia, which
occupied six days, owing to strong head winds which were
encountered at a point on the Lower Columbia, called
Cape Horn, They arrived safely on the eleventh of Sep-
tember, at Vancouver, where they were again received
with the warmest hospitality by the Governor, Dr John
McLaughlin, and his associates. The change from the
privations of wilderness life to the luxuries of Fort Van-
couver was very great indeed, and two weeks passed rap-
SELECTION OF MISSIONARY STATIONS.
213
idly away in the enjoyment of refined society, and all
the other elegancies of the higheiit civilization.
At the end of two weeks, Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spalding,
and Mr. Gray returned to the Upper Columbia, leaving
the ladies at Fort Vancouver while they determined upon
their several locations in the Indian country. After an
absence of several weeks they returned, having made their
selections, and on the third day of November the ladies
once more embarked to ascend the Columbia, to take up
their residence in Indian wigwams while their husbands
prepared rude dwellings by the assistance of the natives.
The spot fixed upon by Dr, Whitman for his mission was
on the Walla- Walla River about thirty miles from the fort
of that name. It was called Waiilatpu; and the tribe
chosen for his pupils were the Cayuses, a hardy, active,
intelligent race, rich in horses and pasture lands.
Mr. Spalding selected a home on the Clearwater River,
among the Nez Perces, of whom we already know so
much. His mission was called Lapwai. Mr. Gray went
among the Flatheads, an equally friendly tribe ; and here
we shall leave the missionaries, to return to the Rocky
Mountains and the life of the hunter and trapper. At a
future date we shall fall in once more with these devoted
people and learn what success attended their efforts to
Christianize the Indians.
1.1 '
li' '.
CHAPTER XVI
t •.
1836. The company of men who went north this year
under Bridger and Fontenelle, numbered nearly three
hundred. Rendezvous with all its varied excitements
being over, this important brigade commenced its march.
According to custom, the trappers commenced business
on the head- waters of various rivers, following them down
as the early frosts of the mountains forced them to do,
until finally they wintered in the plains, at the most
favored spots they could find in which to subsist them-
selves and animals.
From Green River, Meek proceeded with Bridger's com-
mand to Lewis River, Salt River, and other tributaries of
the Snake, and camped with them in Pierre's Hole, that
favorite mountain valley which every year was visited by
the different fur companies.
Pierre's Hole, notwithstanding its beauties, had some re-
pulsive features, or rather perhaps one repulsive feature,
which was, its great numbers of rattlesnakes. Meek relates
that being once caught in a very violent thunder storm,
he dismounted, and holding his horse, a fine one, by the
bridle, himself took shelter under a narrow shelf of r' k
projecting from a precipitous blulF. Directly he observed
an enormous rattlesnake hastening close by him to its den
in the Jiountain. Congratulating himself on his snake-
ship's haste to get out of the storm and his vicinity, he
had only time to have one rejoicing thought when two or
r?
'-u1
,v, he
I i
TTTl
1
ffl
1
1
1
i
THE OLD FRENCHMAN.
21&
three others followed the trail of the first one. They were
seeking the same rocky den, of whose proximity Meek
now felt uncomfortably assured. Before these were out
of sight, there came instead of twos and threes, tens and
twenties, and then hundreds, and finally Meek believes
thousands^ the ground being literally alive with them.
Not daring to stir after he discovered the nature of his
situation, he was obliged to remain and endure the dis-
gusting and frightful scene, while he exerted himself to-
keep his horse quiet, lest the reptiles should attack him.
By and by, when there were no more to come, but all
were safe in their holes in the rock. Meek hastily mounted
and galloped in the face of the tempest in preference ta-
remaining longer in so unpleasant a neighborhood.
There was an old Frenchman among the trappers who
used to charm rattlesnakes, and handling them freely,
place them in his bosom, or allow them to wind about his
arms, several at a time, their flat heads extending in all
directions, and their bodies waving in the air, in the most
snaky and nerve-shaking manner, to the infinite disgust
of all the camp, and of Hawkins and Meek in particular.
Hawkins often became so nervous that he threatened ■ a
shoot the Frenchman on the instant, if he did not desl .. .;
and great was the dislike he entertained for what he term-
ed the " infernal old wizard."
It was often the case in the mountains and on the plains-
that the camp was troubled with rattlesnakes, so that
each man on laying down to sleep found it riecessary tO'
encircle his bed with a hair rope, thus effectually fencing-
out the reptiles, which are too fastidious and sensitive of
touch to crawl over a hair rope. But for this precaution,
the trapper must often have shared his blanket couch
with this foe to the " seed of the woman," who being-
asleep would have neglected to " crush his head," receiv-
1$ ,; in
216
THE PRAIRIE DOG AND HIS TENANTS.
ing instead the serpent's fang in "liishv^el,' if not in some
nobler portion of his body.
There is a common belief abroad that the prairie dog
harbors the rattlesnake, and the owl also, in his subterra-
nean house, in a more or less friendly manner. Meek,
however, who has had many opportunities of observing
the habits of these three ill-assorted denizens of a common
abode, gives it as his opinion that the prairie dog consents
to the invasion of his premises alone through his inability
to prevent it. As these prairie dog villages are always
found on the naked prairies, where there is neither ror'
den for the rattlesnake, nor shade for the blinking eye;
the owl, these two idle and impudent foreigners, availing
themselves of the labors of the industrious little animal
which builds itself a cool shelter from the sun, and a safe
one from the storm, whenever their own necessities drive
them to seek refuge from either sun or storm, enter unin-
vited and take possession. It is probable also, that so far
from being a welcome guest, the rattlesnake occasionally
gorges himself with a young prairie-dog, when other game
is not conveniently nigh, or that the owl lies in wait at the
xioor of its borrowed-without-leave domicile, and succeeds
in nabbing a careless field-mouse more easily than it could
catch the same game by seeking it as an honest owl should
do. The owl and the rattlesnake are like the Sioux when
-they go on a visit to the Omahas — the visit being always
timed so as to be identical in date with that of the Gov-
-ernment Agents who are distributing food and clothing.
They are very good friends for the nonce, the poor Oma*
has not daring to be otherwise for fear of the ready ven-
geance on the next summer's buffalo hunt ; therefore they
oonceal their grimaces and let the Sioux eat them up; and
when summer comes get massacred on their buffalo hunlj
&\\ the same.
THE BLACKFEET ATTACKED IN THEIR CAMP.
217
But to return to our brigade. About the lost of October
Bridgcr'.s company moved down on to the Yellowstone by
a circuitous route through the North Pass, now known as
Hell Gate Pass, to Judith River, Mussel Shell River, Cross
Creeks of the Yellowstone, Three Forks of Missouri, Mis-
souri Lake, Beaver Head country. Big Horn River, and
ihence cast again, and north again to the wintering ground
in the great bend of the Yellowstone.
The company had not proceeded far it the Blackfeet
country, between Hell Gate Pass and tlie Yellowstone,
before they were attacked by the Blackfeet. On arriving
at the Yellowstone they discovered a considerable encamp-
ment of the enemy on an islund or bar in the river, and
proceeded to open hostilities before the Indians should
have discovered them. Making little forts of sticks or
bushes, each man advanced cautiously to the bank over-
looking the island, pushing his leafy fort before him as he
crept silently nearer, until a position was reached whence
firing could commence with effect. The first intimation
the luckless savages had of the neighborhood of the whites
was a volley of shots discharged into their camp, killing
several of their number. But as this was their own mode
of attack, no reflections were likely to be wasted upon the
unfairness of the assault; quickly springing to their arms
the firing was returned, and for several hours was kept up
on both sides. At night the Indians stole off, having lost
nearly thirty killed ; nor did the trappers escape quite un-
hurt, three being killed and a few others wounded.
Since men were of such value to the fur companies, it
would seem strange that they should deliberately enter
upon an Indian fight before being attacked. But unfortu-
nate as these encounters really were, they knew of no
other policy to be puisued. They, (the American Com-
panies,) were not resident, with a long acquaintance, and
I
m
218
THE TRAPPERS POLICY OF WAR.
settled policy, such as rendered the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany 30 secure amongst the savages. They knew that
among these unfriendly Indians, not to attack was to be
attacked, and consequently liUle tims was ever given for
an Indian to discover his vicinity to a trapper. The trap-
per's shot informed him of that, and afterwards the race
was to the swift, and the battle to the strong. Besides
this acknowledged necessity for fighting whenever and
wherever Indians were met with in the Blackfeet and Crow
countries, almost every trapper had some private injury to
aveuge — some theft, or wound, or imprisonment, or at the
very least, sonie terrible fright sustained at the hands of
the univerc?! foe. Therefore there was no reluctance to
shoot into an Indian camp, provided the position of tii?
man shooting was a safe one, oi more defensible then that
of the man shot at. Add to this that there was no law in
the mountains, only license, it is easy to conje*. *ure that
might would have prevailed over right with far kds incen-
tive to the exercise of savage practices than actually did
exist. Many a trapper undoubtedly shot his Indian " for
the fun of it," feeling that it was much better to do so than
run the risk of being shot at for no better reason. Of this
class of reasoners, it must be admitted. Meek was one.
Indian-fighting, like bear-fighting, had come to be a sort
of pastime, in wVich he was proud to be known as highly
accomplished. Having so many opportunities for the dis-
play of game qualities in encounters with these two by-no-
means-to-be despised foes of the trapper, it was not orten
that they quarreled among themselves after the grand frolic
of the rendezvous was over.
It happened, however, during this autumn, that while
the main camp was in the valley of the Yellowstone, a
party of eight trappers, including Meek and a comrade
named Stanb^rry, were trapping together en the Mussel
A DUEL AVERTED.
219
Shell, when the question as to which was the bravest man
got started between them, and at length, in the heat of
controversy, assumed such importance that it was agreed
to settle tho natter on the following day according to the
Virginia code of honor, /. e., by fighting a duel, and shoot-
ing at each other with guns, which hitherto had only done
execution on bears and Indians.
But some listening spirit of the woods determined to
avert tho danger from these two equally brave trappers,
and save their ammunition for its legitimate use, by giving
them occasion to prove their courage almost on the instant.
Whil ' sitting around the camp-fire discussing the coming
event of the duel at thirty paces, a huge bear, already
wounded by a shot from the gun of their hunter who was
out looking for game, came running furiously into camp,
giving each man there a challenge to fight or fly.
"Now," spoke up one of the men quickly, "let Meek
and Stanbeny prove which is bravest, by fighting the
bear!" "Agreed," cried the two as quickly, and both
sprang v, ith guns and wiping-sticks in hand, charging upon
the infuriated beast as it reached the spot where they were
awaiting it. StanbeiTy was a small man, and *Ieek a large
une. Perhaps it was owing to this difier iice of stature
that Meek wfis first to reach the bear as it aavanced. Run-
ning up with reckless bravado Meek struck the creature
two or three times over the head with his wiping- stick
before aiming to fire which however he did so quickly
and so surely that the beast fell dead at his feet. This act
settled the vexed question. Nobody was disposed to dis-
pute the point of courage with a man who would stop to
strike a grizzly before shooting him : therefore Meek was
proclaimed bv the common voice to be " cock of the walk "
in that camp. The pipe of peace was solemnly smoked
by himself and Stanberry, and the tomahawk buried never
5
:n I
K
220
A RUNAWAY BEAR.
more to be resurrected between thera, while a fat supper
of bear meat celebrated the compact of everlasting amity.
It was not an unfrequent occurrence for a grizzly bear
to be run into camp by the hunters, in the Yellowstone
country where this creature abounded. An amusing inci-
dent occurred not long after that just related, when the
whole camp was at the Cross Creeks of the YellowstoLe,
on the south side of that river. The hunters were out,
and had come upon two or three bears in a thicket. As
these animals sometimes will do, they started off in a great
fright, running toward camp, the hunters after them, yell-
ing, frightening them still more. A runaway bear, like a
runaway horse, appears not to see where it is goiilg, but
keeps right on its course no matter what dangers he in
advance. So one of these animals having got headed for
the middle of the encampment, saw nothing of what lay
in its way, but ran on and on, apparently taking note of
nothing but the yells in pursuit. So sudden and unex-
pected was the charge which he made upon camp, that
the Indian women, who were sitting on the ground engaged
in some ornamental work, had no time to escape out of the
way. One of them was thrown down and run over, and
another was struck with such violence that she was thrown
twenty feet from the spot where she was hastily attempting
to rise. Other objects in camp were upset and thrown out
of the way, but without causing so much merriment as the
mishaps of the two women who were so rudely treated by
ihe monster.
It was also while the camp was at the Cross Creeks of
the Yellowstone that Meek had one of his best fought bat-
tles with a grizzly bear. He was out with two compan-
ions, one Gardiner, and Mark Head, a Shawnee Indian.
Seeing a very large bear digging roots in the creek bot-
tom, Meek proposed to attack it, if the others would hold
A GRIZZLY AT CLOSE QUARTERS.
221
his horse ready to mount if he failed to kill the creature.
This being agreed to he advanced to within about forty
paces of his game, when he raised his gun and attempted
to fire, but the cap bursting he only roused the beast,^
which turned on him with a terrific noise between a snarl
and a growl, showing some fearful looking teeth. Meek
turned to run fo*' his horse, at the same time trying to put
a cap on his gun ; but when he had almost reached his
comrades, their horses and his own took fright at the bear
now close on his heels, and ran, leaving him alone with the
now fully infuriated beast. Just at the moment he suc-
ceeded in getting a cap on his gun, the teeth of the bear
closed on his blanket capote which was belted around the
waist, the suddenness and force of the ure turning him
around, as the skirt of his capote yielded to the strain
and tore off at the belt. Being now nearly face to face
SATISFIED WITH BEAR FIGHTING.
with his foe, the intrepid trapper thrust his gun into the
WmT-
1^22
SATISFIED WITH BEA.t FIGHTING.
creature's mouth and attempted again to fire, but the gun
being double triggered and not set, it failed to go off.
Perceiving the difficulty he managed to set the triggers
with the gun still in the bear's mouth, yet no sooner was
this done than the bear succeeded in knocking it out, and
firing as it slipped out, it hit her too low dow n to inflict a
fatal wound and only served to irritate her still farther.
In this desperate situation when Meek's brain was rap-
idly working on the problem of live Meek or live bear,
two fresh actors appeared on the scene in the persons of
two cubs, who seeing their mother in difficulty seemed
desirous of doing something to assist her. Their appear-
ance seemed to excite the bear to new exertions, for
sho made one desperate blow at Meek'« empty gun with
■which he was defending himself, and knocked it out of his
hands, and far down the bank or sloping hillside where
the struggle was now going on. Then being partially
blinded by rage, she seized one of her cubs and began tc
box it about in a most unmotherly fashion. This diversion
gave Meek a chance to draw his knife from the scabbard,
with which he endeavored i'> stab the bear behind the
ear : but she was too quick for him, and with a blow struck
it out of his hand, as she had the gun, nearly severing his
forefinger.
At this critical juncture the second cub interfered, and
got a boxing from the old bear, as the first one had done.
This too, gave Meek time to make a mo^ '^ment, and loosen-
ing his tomahawk from his belt, he made one tremen-
dous effort, taking deadly aim, and struck her just behind
the ear, the tomahawk sinking int<i the brain, and his
powerful antagonist lay dead before him. When the blow
was struck he stood with his back against a little bluff of
rock, beyond which it was impossible to retreat. It was
his last chance, and his usual good fortune stood by him.
WINTER-QUARTBllS ON POWDER BIVEH.
22'd
When the struggle was over the weary victor mounted
the TQck behind him and looked down upon his enemy
slain; and " came to the conclusion that he was satisfied
with bar-fighting."
But renown had sought him out even here, alone with
his lifeless antagonist. Capt. Stuart with his artist, Mr.
Miller, chanced upon this very spot, while yet the con-
queror contemplated his slain enemy, and taking posses-
sion at once of the bear, whose skin was afterward preserved
and stuffed, made a portrait of the " satisfied " slayer. A
picture was subsequently painted by Miller of this scene,
and was copied in wax for a museum in St. Louis, where
it probably remains to this day, a monument of Meek's
best bear fight. As for Meek's runaway horse and run-
away comrades, they returned to the scene of action too
late to be of the least service, except to furnish our hero
with transportation to camp, which, considering the weight
of his newly gathered laurels, was no light service after
all.
In November Bridger's camp arrived at the Bighorn
River, expecting to winter ; but finding the buffalo all gone,
were obliged to cross the mountains lying between the
Bighorn and Powder rivers to reach the buffalo country
on the latter Btream. The snow having already fallen
quit? deep on these mountains the crossing was attended
with great difficulty ; and many horses and mules were
lost by sinking in the snow, or falling down precipices
made slippery by the melting and freezing of the snow on
the narrow ridges and rocky benches along which they
were forced to travel.
About Christmas all the company went into winter-quar-
ters on Powder River, in the neighborhood of a company
of Bonneville's men, left under the command of Antoine
Montero, who had established a trading-post and fort at
p
1"
*
i ' 1
?
\
i i-
?
i ■■
"' i
i;
224
BONNEVILLE S MEN ROBBED.
this place, hoping, no doubt, that here they should be
comparatively safe from the injurious competition of the
older companies. The appearance of three hundred men,
who had the winter before them in which to do mischief,
was therefore as unpleasant as it was unexpected ; and
the result proved that even Montero, who was Bonneville's
experienced trader, could not hold his own against so
numerous and expert a band of marauders as Brid^er's
men, assisted by the Crows, proved themselves to be ; for
by the return of spring Montero had very little remaining
of the property belonging to the fort, nor anything to show
for it. This mischievous war upon Bonneville was prompt-
ed partly by the usual desire to cripple a rival trader,
which the leaders encouraged in their men ; but in some
individual instances far more by the desire for revenge
upon Bonneville personally, on account of his censures
passed upon the members of the Monterey expedition,
and on the ways of mountain-men generally.
About the first of January, Fontenelle, with four men,
and Captain Stuart's party, left camp to go to St. Louis
for supplies. At Fort Laramie Fontenelle committed sui-
cide, in a fit of mania a jpotu^ and his men returned to
camp with the newa
- li
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I
1
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Im
1
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; ■
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ft
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d
CHAPTER XVII.
1837. The fate of Fontenelle should have served as a
warning to his associates and fellows. ' Should have done,'
however, are often idle words, and as sad as they are idle ;
they match the poets ' might have been,' in their regret-
ful impotency. Perhaps there never was a winter camp
in the mountains more thoroughly demoralized than that
of Bridger during the iths of January and February.
Added to the whites, ^no were reckless enough, were a
considerable party of Delaware and Shawnee Indians, ex-
cellent allies, and skillful hunters and trappers, but having
the Indian's love of strong drink. " Times were pretty
good in the mountains," according to the mountain-man's
notion of good times ; that is to say, beaver was plenty,
camp large, and alcohol abundant, if dear. Under these
favorable circumstance much alcohol was consumed, and
its influence was felt in the manners not only of the trap-
pers, white and red, but also upon the neighboring In-
dians.
The Crows, who had for two years been on terms of a
sort of semi-amity with the whites, found it to their in-
terest to conciliate so powerful an enemy as the American
Fur Company was now become, and made frequent visits
to the camp, on which occasion they usually succeeded in
obtaining a taste of the fire-water of which they were in-
ordinately fond. Occasionally a trader was permitted to
sell liquor to the whole village, when a scenie took place
226
A CROW CAROUSAL — PICKED CROWS.
I:
ii
\[ i
whoso peculiar horrors were wholly indescribable, from the
inability of language to convey an adequate idea of its
hellish degradation. When a trader sold alcohol to a
village it was understood both by himself and the Indians
what was to follow. And to secure the trader against in-
jury a certain number of warriors were selected out of
the village to act as a police force, and to guard the trader
during the ' drunk ' from the insane passions of his cus-
tomers. To the police not a drop was to be given.
This being arranged, and the village disarmed, the ca-
rousal began. Every individual, man, woman, and child,
was permitted to become intoxicated. Every form of
drunkenness, from the simple stupid to the silly, the he-
roic, the insane, the beastly, the murderous, displayed
itself The scenes which were then enacted beggared de-
scription, as they shocked the senses of even the hard-
drinking, license-loving trappers who witnessed them.
That they did not "point a moral" for these men, is the
strangest part of the whole transaction.
When everybody, police excepted, was drunk as drunk
could be, the trader began to dilute his alcohol with water,
until finally his keg contained wat(3r only, slightly flavored
by the washings of the keg, and as they continued to
drink of it without detecting its weak quality, they finally
drank themselves sober, and were able at last to sum up
the cost of their intoxication. This was generally nothing
less than the whole property of the village, added to which
were not a few personal injuries, and usually a few mur-
ders. The village now being poor, the Indians were cor-
respondingly humble ; and were forced to begin a system
of reprisal by stealing and making war, a course for which
the traders were prepared, and v^hich they avoided by
leaving that neighborhood. Such were some of the sins
and sorrows for which the American fur companies were
I
bvored
led to
-lly
mai
imup
pthing
rhich
mur-
|e cor-
rstem
rhich
tdby
sins
I were
*
NIGHT VISIT TO THE BLACKFOOT VILLAGE.
227
answerable, and which detracted seriously from the re-
spect that the courage, and other good qualities of the
mountain-men freely commanded.
By the first of March these scenes of wrong and riot
were over, for that season at least, and camp commenced
moving Lack toward the Blackfoot country. After re-
crossing the mountains, passing the Bighorn, Clarke's, and
Rosebud rivers, they came upon a Blackfoot village on
the Yellowstone, which as usual they attacked, and a bat-
tle ensued, in which Manhead, captain of the Delawares
was killed, another Delaware named Tom Hill succeeding
him in command. The fight did not result in any great
loss or gain to either party. The camp of Bridger fought
its way past the village, which was what they must do, in
order to proceed.
Meek, however, was not quite satisfied with the punish-
ment the Blackfeet had received for the killing of Man-
head, who had been in the fight with him when the Ca-
manches attacked them on the plains. Desirous of doing
something on his own account, he induced a comrade
named LeBlas, to accompany him to the village, after night
had closed over the scene of the late contest. Stealing
into the village with a noiselessness equal to that of one
of Pennimore Cooper's Indian scouts, these two daring
trappers crept so near that they could look into the lodges,
and see the Indians at their favorite game of Cache. In-
ferring from this that the savages did not feel their losses
very severely, they determined to leave some sign of their
visit, and wound their enemy in his most sensitive part,
the horse. Accordingly they cut the halters of a number
of the animals, fastened in the customary manner to a
stake, and succeeded in getting oiF with nine of them,
which property they proceeded to appropriate to their
own use.
pPfT^
Hi t
.|t<>]
I
228
STANLEY, THE INpiAN PAINTER.
As tlie spring and summer advanced, Bridger's brigade
advanced into the mountains, passing the Cross Creek of
the Yellowstone, Twenty-five-Yard River, Chetry River,
and coming on to the head-waters of the Missouri spent the
early part of the summer in that locality. Between Gal-
latin and Madison forks the camp struck the great trail of
the Blackfeet. Meek and Mark Head had fallen four or
five days behind camp, and being on this trail felt a good
deal of uneasiness. This feeling was not lessened by
seeing, on coming to Madison Fork, the skeletons of two
men tied to or suspended from trees, the flesh eaten off
their bones. Concluding discretion to be the safest part
of valor in this country, they concealed themselves by day
and traveled by night, until camp was finally reached
near Henry's Lake. On this march they forded a flooded
river, on the back of the same mule, their traps placed on
the other, and escaped from pursuit of a dozen yelHDg
savages, who gazed after them in astonishment ; "taking
their mule," said Mark Head," to be a beaver, and them-
selves great medicine men. " That," said Meek, "is what
I call 'cooning' a river."
From this point Meek set out with a party of thirty or
forty trappers to travel up the river to head-waters, accom-
panied by the famous Indian painter Stanley, whose party
was met with, this spring, traveling among the mountains.
The party of trappers were a day or two ahead of the
main camp when they found themselves following close
after the big Blackfoot village which had recently passed
over the trail, as could be seen by the usual signs ; and
also by the dead bodies strewn along the trail, victims of
that horrible scourge, the small pox. The village was evi-
dently fleeing to the mountains, hoping to rid itself of the
plague in their colder and more salubrious air.
Not long after coming upon these evidences of prox-
DESPERATE FIGHT WITh BLACKFEET.
229
imity to an enemy, a party of a hundred and fifty of their
warriors were discovered encami)ed in a defile or narrow
bottom enclosed by high bluffs, through which the trap-
pers would have to pass. Seeing that in order to pass this
war party, and the village, which was about half a mile in
advance, there would have to be some fighting done, the
trappers resolved to begin the battle at once by attacking
their enemy, who was as yet ignorant of their neighbor-
hood. In pursuance of this determination. Meek, Newell,
Mansfield, and Le Bias, commenced hostilities. Leaving
their horses in camp, they crawled along on the edge of
the overhanging bluff until opposite to the encampment
of Blackfeet, firing on them from the shelter of some
bushes which grew among the rocks. But the Blackfeet,
though ignorant of the number of their enemy, were not
to be dislodged so easily, and after nn hour or two of ran-
dom shooting, contrived to scale the bluff at a point higher
up, and to get upon a ridge of ground still higher than
that occupied by the four trappers. This movement dis-
lodged the latter, and they hastily retreated through the
bushes and returned to camp.
The next day, the main camp having come ap, the fight
was renewed. While the greater body of the company,
with the pack-horses, were passing along the high bluff
overhanging them, the party of the day before, and forty
or fifty others, undertook to drive the Indians out of the
bottom, and by keeping them engaged allow the train to
pass in safety. The trappers rode to the fight on this oc-
casion, and charged the Blackfeet furiously, they having
joined the village a little farther on. A general skirmish
now took place. Meek, who was mounted on a fine horse,
was in the thickest of the fight. He had at one ti'^e a
side to side race with an Indian who strung his bow so
m
S4
a |:
230
THK TR.iPPERS LAST SHOT.
hard that the arrow dropped, just as Meek, who had loaded
his gun running, was ready to fire, and the Indian dropped
after his arrow.
Newell too had a desperate conflict with a half-dead
warrior, who having fallen from a wound, he thought dead
and was trying to scalp. Springing from his horse he
seized the Indian's long thick hai.' in one hand, and with
his knife held in the other made a pass at the scalp, when
the savage 'oused up kr.'fe in hand, and a struggle took
place in which it was for a time doubtful which of the
combatants would part with the coveted scalp-lock. New-
ell might have been glad to resign the trophy, and leave
the fallen warrior his tuft of hair, but his finders were in
some way caught by some gun-screws with which the imv-
agfc had ornamented his coiffure^ and would not part com
pany. In this dilemma there was no other alternative but
fight. The miserable savage was dragged a rod or two in
the struggle, and finally dispatched.
Mansfield also got into such close quarteT'>3, surrounded
by the enemy, that he gave himself up for lust, and called
out to his comrades: "Tell old Gabe, (Bridger,) that old
Cotton (his own sobriquet) is gone.'' He lived, however,
to deliver his own farewell messuage, for at this critical
juncture the trappers wer" re-inforced, and relieved. Still
the fight went on, the trappers gradually working their
way to the upper end of the enclosed pert of tho vaUey.
past the point of danger.
Just before gettir^g clear of this entanglement Meek be-
came the subject of another picture, by Stanley, who was
viewing the battle from the heights above the valley.
The picture which is well known as "The Trapper's Last
Shot," represents him as he tui ned upon his horse, a fine
and spirit'^d animal, to dischrjge his last shot at an Indian
jek be-
10 was
Ivalley.
a fine
lludiaii
A TALK WITH LITTLE-ROBE.
231
pursuing, while in the bottom, at a little distance away,
other Indians are seen skulking in the tall reedy grass.
The last shot having been discharged vith fatal effect,
our trapper, so persistently lionized by painters, put his
horse to his utmost speed and soon after overtook the
camp, which had now passed the strait of danger. But
the Blackfeet were still unsatisfied with the result of the
contest. They followed after, reinforced from the village,
and attacked the camp. Tn the fight which followed a
Blackfoot woman's horse was shot down, and Meek tr ed
to take her prisoner : but two or three of her people com-
"AND THEREBY HANGS A TA'
ing to the rescue, engaged his attention ; una the woman
was saved by seizing hold of the tail of her husband's
horse, which setting off at a ruu, carried her out of
danger, ' .
The Blackfeet found the camp of Bridger too strong-
for them. They were severely beaten and compelled to
retire to their village, leaving Bridger free to move on.
The following day the camp reached the village of Little-
Robe, a chief of the Peagans, who held a talk with Bridger,.
III t;
f!.; 1
232
AN INDIAN IN THE WRONG CAMP.
complaining that his nation were all perishing from the
small-pox which had been given to them by the whites.
Bridger was able to explain to Little-Robe his error; in-
asmuch as although the disease might have originated
among the whites, it was communicated to the Blackfeet
by Jim Beckwith, a negro, and principal chief of their
enemies the Crows. This unscrupulous wretch had caused
two infected articles to be taken from a Mackinaw boat,
up from St. Louis, and disposed of to the Blackfeet —
whence the horrible scourge under which they were suf
fering.
This matter being explained, Little-Robe consented to
trade horses and skins ; and the two camps parted amica-
bly. The next day after this friendly talk, Bridger being
encamped on the trail in advance of the Blackfeet, an In-
dian came riding into camp, with his wife and daughter,
pack-horse and lodge-pole, and all his worldly goods, un-
aware until he got there of the snare into which he had
fallen. The French trappers, generally, decreed to kill
the man and take possession of the woman. But Meek,
Kit Carson, and others of the American trappers of the
better sort, interfered to prevent this truly savage act.
Meek took the woman's horse by the head, Carson the
man's, the daughter following, and led them out of camp.
Few of the Frenchmen cared to interrupt either of these
*two men, and they were suffered to depart in peace.
When at a safe distance, Meek stopped, and demanded as
some return for having saved the man's life, a present of
tobacco, a luxury which, from the Indian's pipe, he sus-
pected him to possess. About enough for two chews was
the result of this demand, complied with rather grudg-
ingly, the Indian vieing with the trapper in his devotion
to the weed. Just at this time, owing to the death of
mh. gray and his adventures.
233
Fontenelle, and a consequent delay in receiving supplies,
tobacco was scarce among the mountaineers.
Bridger's brigade of trappers met with no other serious
interruptions on their summer's march. They proceeded
to Henry's Lake, and crossing the Rocky Mountains, trav-
eled through the Pine Woods, always a favorite region, to
Lewis' Lake on Lewis' Fork of the Snake River; and
finally up the Grovant Fork, recrossing the mountains to
Wind River, where the rendezvous for this year was ap-
pointed.
Here, once more, the camp was visited by a last years'
acquaintance. This was none other than Mr. Gray, of the
Flathead Mission, who was returning to the States on bus-
iness connected with the missionary enterprise, and to
provide himself with a helpmeet for life, — a co-laborer
and sufferer in the contemplated toil of teaching savages
the rudiments of a religion difficult even to the compre-
hension of an old civilization.
Mr. Gray was accompanied by two young men (whites)
who wished to return to the States, and also by a son of
one of the Flathead chiefs. Two other Flathead Indians,
and one Iroquois and one Snake Indian, were induced to
accompany Mr. Gray. The undertaking was not without
danger, and so the leaders of the Fur Company assured
him. But Mr. Gray was inclined to make light of the
danger, having traveled with entire safety when under the
protection of the Fur Companies the year before. He
proceeded without interruption until he reached Ash Hol-
low, in the neighborhood of Fort Laramie, when his party
was attacked by a large band of Sioux, and compelled to
accept battle. The five Indians, with the whites, fought
bravely, killing fifteen of the Sioux, before a parley was
obtained by the intervention of a French trader who
I> '
234
MASSACRE OF MR. GR.iY S INDIAN ALLIES.
chanced to be among the Sioux. When Mr. Gray was
able to hold a ' talk ' with the attacking party he was as-
sured that his life and that of his two white associates
would be spared, but that they wanted to kill the strange
Indians and take their fine horses. It is not at all proba-
ble that Mr. Gray consented to this sacrifice ; though he
has been accused of doing so.
No doubt the Sioux took advantage of some hesi-
tation on his part, and rushed upon his Indian allies in an
unguarded moment. However that may be, his allies
were killed and he was allowed to escape, after giving up
the property belonging to them, and a portion of his own.
This affair was the occasion of much ill-feeling toward
Mr. Gray, when, in the following year, he returned to the
mountains with the tale of massacre of his friends and his
own escape. The mountain-men, although they used their
influence to restrain the vengeful feelings of the Flathead
tribe, whispered amongst themselves that Gray had pre-
ferred his own life to that of his ^riends. The old Flat-
head chief too, who had lost a son by the massacre, was
hardly able to check his impulsive desire for revenge ; for
he held Mr. Gray responsible for his son's life. Nothing more
serious, however, grew out of this unhappy tragedy than a
disaffection among the tribe toward Mr. Gray, which made
his labors useless, and finally determined him to remove to
the Wallamet Valley.
There were no outsiders besides Gray's party at the ren-
dezvous of this year, except Captain Stuart, and he was
almost as good a mountaineer as any. This doughty
English traveler had the bad fortune together with that
experienced leader Fitzpatrick, of being robbed by the
Crows in the course of the fall hunt, in the Crow country.
These expert horse thieves had succeeded in stealing
CAPT. STUART ROBBED BY THE CROWS.
235
nearly all the horses belongmg to the joint camp, and had
so disabled the company that it could not proceed. In
this emergency, Newell, who had long been a sub-trader
and was wise in Indian arts and wiles, was sent to hold a
talk with the thieves. The talk was held, according to
custom, in the the Medicine lodge, and the usual amount
of smoking, of long silences, and grave looks, had to be
participated in, before the subject on hand could be con-
sidered. Then the chiefs complained as usual of wrongs
at the hands of the white men ; of their fear of small-pox,
from which some of their tribe had suffered ; of friends
killed in battle with the whites, and all the list of ills that
Crow flesh is heir to at the will of their white enemies.
The women too had their complaints to proifer, and the
number of widows and orphans in the tribe was pathetic-
ally set forth. The chiefs also made a strong point of
this latter complaint ; and on it the wily Newell hung
his hopes of recovering the stolen property.
" It is true," said he to the chiefs, " that you have sus-
tained heavy losses. But that is not the fault of the Blan-
ket chief (Bridger.) If your young men have been killed,
they were killed when attempting to rob or kill our Cap-
tain's men. If you have lost horses, your young men have
stolen five to our one. If you are poor in skins and other
property, it i's because you sold it all for drink which did
you no good. Neither is Bridger to blame that you have
had the small-pox. Your own chief, in trying to kill your
enemies the Blackfeet, brought that disease into the coun-
try.
" But it is true that you have many widows and orphans
to support, and that is bad. I pity the orphans, and will
help you to support them, if you will restore to my cap-
tain the property stolen from his camp. Otherwise
Bridger will bring more horses, and plenty of amniuni-
236
newell's addres?^ to the crow chiefs.
tion, and there will be more widows and orphans among
the Crows than ever before."
This was a kind of logic easy to understand and quick
to convince among savages. The bribe, backed by a threat,
settled the question of the restoration of the horses, which
were returned without further delay, and a present of
blankets and trinkets was given, ostensibly to the bereaved
women, really to the covetous chiefs.
.:.'■ -•>/:•
; >. ' • . ,.
i •
i . K'l
CHAPTER XVIII.
1837. The decline of the business of hunting furs be-
gan to be quite obvious about this time. Besides the
American and St. Louis Companies, and the Hudson's Bay
Company, there were numerous lone traders with whom
the ground was divided. The autumn of this year was
spent by the American Company, as formerly, in trapping
beaver on the streams issuing from the eastern side of the
Rocky Mountains. When the cold weather finally drove
the Fur Company to the plains, they went into winter
quarters once more in the neighborhood of the Crows on
Powder River. Here were re-enacted the wild scenes of
the previous winter, both trappers and Indians being
given up to excesses.
On the return of spring, Bridger again led his brigade
all through the Yellowstone country, to the streams on
the north side of the Missouri, to the head- waters of that
river; and finally rendezvoused on the north fork of the
Yellowstone, near Yellowstone Lake. Though the amount
of furs taken on the spring hunt was considerable, it was
by no means equal to former years. The fact was becom-
ing apparent that the beaver was being rapidly extermin-
ated.
However there was beaver enough in camp to furnish
the means for the usual profligacy. Horse-racing, betting,
gambling, drinking, were freely indulged in. In the
midst of this " fun," there appeared at the rendezvous Mr.
238
A MISSIONARY PARTY — A WAR DANCE.
. 1
' ^
ii
.mmajMjk
1
ii
-
1 ; ; i ,
Gray, now accompanied by Mrs. Gray and six other mission-
ary ladies and gentlemen. Here also were two gentlemen
from the Methodist mission on the Wallamet, who were
returning to the States. Captain Stuart was still traveling
with the Fur Company, and was also present with his
party ; besides which a Hudson's Bay xader named Ema-
tinger was encamped near by. As if actuated to extra-
ordinary displays by the unusun^ number of visitors, espe-
cially the four ladies, both trappers and Indians conducted
themselves like the mad-caps they were. The Shawnees
and Delawares danced their great war-dance before the
tents of the missionaries ; and Joe Meek, not to be out-
done, arrayed himself in a suit of armor belonging to Cap-
tain Stuart and strutted about the encampment ; then
mounting his hor^e played the part of an ancient knight,
with a good deal of eclat
Meek had not abstained from the alcohol kettle, but had
offered it and partaken of it rather more freely than usual ;
so that when rendezvous was broken up, the St. Louis
Company gone to the Popo Agie, and the American Com-
pany going to Wind River, he found that his wife, a Nez
Perce who had succeeded* Umentucken in his affections,
had taken offence, or a fit of homesickness, which was
synonymous, and departed with the party of Ematinger
and the missionaries, intending to visit her people at
Walla- Walla. This desertion wounded Meek'a feelings ;
for he prided himself on his courtesy to the sex, and did
not like to think that he had not behaved handsomely.
All the more was he vexed with himself because his spouse
had carried with her a pretty and sprightly baby-daugh-
ter, of whom the father was fond and proud, and who had
been christened Helen Mar, after one of the heroines of
Miss Porter's Scottish Chiefs — ^a book much admired in
the mountains, as it has been elsewhere.
PURSUIT OP A RUNAWAY SPOUSE.
239
Therefore at the first camp of the American Company,
Meek resolved to turn his back on the company, and go
after the mother and daughter. Obtaining a fresh kettle
of alcohol, to keep up his spirits, he left camp, returning
toward the scene of the late rendezvous.* But in the effort
to keep up his spirits he had drank too much alcohol, and
the result was that on the next morning he found himself
alone on the Wind Ri\er Mountain, with his horses and
pack mules, and very sick indeed. Taking a little more
alcohol to brace up his nerves, he started on again, pass-
ing around the mountain on to the Sweetwater ; thence to
the Sandy, and thence across a country without water for
seventy -five miles, to Green River, where the camp of Ema-
tinger was overtaken.
The heat was excessive ; and the absence of water made
the journey across the arid plain between Sandy and
Green Rivers one of great suffering to the traveler and
his animals ; and the more so as the frequent references to
the alcohol kettle only increased the thirst-fever instead
of allaying it. But Meek was not alone in suffering.
About half way across the scorching plain he discovered a
solitary woman's figure standing in the trail, and two
riding horses near her, whose drooping heads expressed
their dejection. On coming up with this strange group,
Meek found the woman to be one of the missionary ladies,
a Mrs. Smith, and that her husband was lying on the
gi'ound, dying, as the poor sufferer believed himself, for
water.
Mrs. Smith made a weeping appeal to Meek for water
for her dying husband ; and truly the poor woman's situ-
ation was a pitiable one. Behind camp, with no protec-
tion from the perils of the desert and wilderness — only a
terrible care instead — the necessity of trying to save her
husband's life. As no water was to be had, alcohol was
16
I 1
240
MEEK ABUSES A MIS.-4I0NAItY
offered to the famishing man, who, however, could not bo
aroused from his stupor of wretchedness. Seeing that
death really awaited the unlucky missionary unless some-
thing could be done to cause him to exert himself, Meek
coninionced at once, and with unction, to abuse the man
for his unm iiilinesa His style, though not very refined,
was certainly very vigorous.
" You're a pretty fellow to be lying on the
ground here, lolling your tongue out of your mouth, and
trying to die. Die, if you want to, you're of no account
and will never be missed. Here's your wife, who you
are keeping standing here in the hot sun ; why don't she
die ? She's got more pluck than a white-livered chap like
you. But I'm not going to leave her waiting here for
you to die. Thar's a band of Indians behind on the trail,
and I've been ridhig like — to keep out of their way.
If you want to stay here and be scalped, you can stay;
Mrs. Smith is going with me. Come, madam," continued
Meek, leading up her horse, "let me help you to mount,
for we must get out of this cursed country as fast as pos-
sible."
Poor Mrs. Smith did not wish to leave her husband ; nor
did she relish the notion of staying to be scalped. Despair
tugged at her heart-strings. She would have sunk to the
ground in a passion of tears, but Meek was too much in
earnest to permit precious time to be thus wasted. " Get ,
on your horse," said he rather roughly. " You can't save
your husband by staying here, crying. It is better that
one should die than two ; and he seems to be a worthless
dog anyway. Let the Indians have him."
Almost lifting her upon the horse. Meek t0i*e the dis-
tracted woman away from her husband, who had yefc
strength enough to gasp out an entreaty not to be left
AND KIDNAPS HIS WIFE.
241
"You can follow us if you choose," said the apparently
merciless trapper, "or you can stay where you are. Mrs.
Smith can lind plenty of better men than you. Come,
UKulam ! " and he gave the horse a stroke with his riding-
whip which started him into a rapid pace.
The unhappy wife, whoso conscience reproached her
for leaving her husband to die alone, looked back, and
saw him raising his head to gaze after them. Her grief
broke out afresh, and she would have gone back even
tlien to remain with him : but Meek was firm, and again
started up her horse. Before they were quite out of sight,
Meek turned in his saddle, and beheld the dying man sit-
ting up. " Hurrah ;" said he : " he's all right. He will
overtake us in a little while : " and as he predicted, in
little over an hour Smith came riding up, not more than
half dead by this time. The party got into camp on
Green River, about eleven o'clock that night, and Mrs.
Smith having told the story of her adventures with the
unknown trapper who had so nearly kidnaped her, the
laugh and the cheer went round among the company.
"That's Meek," said Ematinger, "you may rely on that.
He's just the one to kidnap a woman in that way," When
Mrs. Smith fully realized the service rendered, she was
abundantly grateful, and profuse were the thanks which
our trapper received, even from the much-abused husband,
who was now thoroughly alive again. Meek failed to
persuade his wife to return with him. She was homesick
for her people, and would go to them. But instead of
turning back, he kept on with Ematinger's camp as far as
Fort Hall, which post was then in charge of Courtenay
Walker.
While the camp was at Soda Springs, Meek observed
the missionary ladies baking bread in a tin reflector before
a fire. Bread was a luxury unknown to the mountain-
If i ]'"
W-:-
w:
K^-y:
242
MEEK S BLACK-EYED DAUGHTER.
man, — and as a suctden recollection of his boyhood, and
the days of bread and-butter came over him, hia mouth
began to water. Almost against his will he continued to
hang round the missionary camp, thinking about the bread.
At length one of the Nez Perces, named James, whom the
missionary had taught to sing, at their request struck up
a hymn, which he sang in a very creditable manner. Ai,
a reward of his pious ])roficicncy, one of the ladies gave
James a biscuit. A bright thought struck our longing
hero's brain. '"Go back," said he to James, "and sing
another hymn ; and when the ladies give you another bis-
cuit, b7ing it to me." And in this manner, he obtained a
taste of the coveted luxury, bread — of which, during nine
years in the mouniains he had not eaten.
At Fort Hall, Meek parted company with the missiona-
ries, and with his wife and child. As the little Jack-eyed
daughter took her departure in company with this new
element in savage life, — the missionary society, — her fa-
ther could have liad no premonition of the fate to which
the admixture of the savage and the religious elements
\7as step by step consigniiig her.
After remaining a few days at the fort. Meek, who found
some of his old comrades at this place, went trapping with
them up the Portneuf, and soon made up a pack of one
hundred and fifty beaver-skins. These, on returning to
the fort, he delivered to Jo. Walker, one of the iVmerican
Company's trade s at that time, and took Walker's receipt
for them. He then, with Mansfield and Wilkins, set out
about the first of September for the Flathead countiy,
where Wilkins had a wife. In their company was an old
Flathciad woman, who wished to return to her people, and
took this opportunity.
The weather was still extremely wt m. It had been
a season of great urought, and the st? 3)'ms were nearly
hi
A FRARFUL MAUCH— INTKNSE SLM^FERINO.
243
'I '
all enlinily dried up. The first night out, the horses,
oi^ht in nuinber, strayed off in search of water, and were
lost. 'Sow commenced a day o! Tearful sufferings. No
water iiad been found since leaving the fort. The loss of
the liorses made it necessary for the company to separate
to look for them ; Mansfield and Wilkins going in one di-
rection, Meek and the old Flathead woman in another.
The little coolness and moisture which night had imparted
to the atmosphere was quickly dissipated by the unchecked
rays of the pitiless sun sliining on a dry and barren plain,
with not a vestige of verdure anywhere in sight. On
and on went the old Flathead woman, keeping always in
the advance, and on and on followed Meek, anxiously
scanning the horizon for a chance sight of the horses.
Higher and higher mounted the sun, the temperature in-
creasing in intensity until the great plain palpitated with
radiated heat, and the horizon flickered almost like a
flame where the burning heavens met the burning earth
Meek had been drinking a good deal of rum at the fort,
which circumstance did not lessen the terrible consuming'
thirst thai was to-turing him.
Noon Ciime, ard passed, and still the he. t and the suffer-
ing increased, the fever and craving of hunger being now
added to that of thirst, On and on, through the whole
of that long scorching afternoon, trotted the old Flathead
woman in the peculiar traveling gait of the Indian and the
mountaineer. Meek following at a little distance, and go-
ing mad, as he thought, for a little water. And mad he
probably was, as famine sometimes makes its victims.
When night at last closed in, he laid down to die, as the
missionary Smith had done before. But he did not re-
member Smith : he only thought of water, and heard it
rimning, and fancied the old woman was lapping it like a
wolf. Then he rose to follow her and find it ; it was al-
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244 THL OM) FLATHEAD WOMAN WATER AT LAST.
ways just abend, and the woman was howling to him to
show him the trail.
Thus the night passed, and in tlie cool of the early
morning ho oxporioncMHi a little relief. ITe was really
following his guide, who as on the day before was trotting
on ahead. Then the thought pos.sessed him to overtake
and kill her, ho})ing from her shriveled body to obtain a
morsel of food, and drop of raoistur^ But his strength
was failing, and his guide so far ahead that he gave up '
the thought as involving too great exertion, continuing
to follow her in a helpless and hopeless kind of way.
At last ! There was no mistake this time : he heard
running water, and the old woman was lapping it like a
wolf With a shriek of joy he ran and fell on his face
in the water, which was not more than one foot in depth,
nor the stream more than fifteen feet wide. But it had a
white pebbly bottom ; and the water was clear, if not very
cool. It was something to thank God for, which the none
too religious trapper acknowledged by a fervent " Thank
God!"
For a long time he lay in the water, swallowing it, and
by thrusting his finger down his throat vomiting it up
again, to prevent surfeit, his whole body taking in the
weVorae moisture at all its million pores. The fever
abated, a feeling of health returned, and the late perish-
ing man was restored to life and comparative happiness.
The stream proved to be Godin's Fork, and here Meek
and his faithful old guide rested until evening, in th«
shade of some willo.vs, where their good fortune w»8
completed by the appearance of Mansfield and WilkiM
with the horses. The follo^ving morning the men fomd
and killed a fat l)uffalo cow, whereby all their wants wwe
supplied, and jf^'.^od ffseling restored in the little camp.
From Godin's Fork they crossed over to Salmon River.
^
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ARRIVAL AT THE INDIAN VILLAGE.
245
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and presently struck the Ncz Per(;e trail which leads from
that river over into the Beaver-head country, on the
Beaver-head or Jcfiersoii Fork of the Missouri, where
there was a Flathead and Nez Perce village, ou or about
the present site of Virginia City, in Montana.
Not stopping long here, Meek and his companions went
on to the Madison Fork with the Indian village, and to
the shores of Missouri Lake, joining in the fall hunt for '
buflfalo.
HORSK-TAIl. KAUm
CHAPTER XIX.
" Tell me all about a buffalo hunt," said the writer to
Joe Meek, as we sat at a window overlooking the Colum-
bia River, where it has a beautiful stretch of broad waters
and curving Tirooded shores, and talking about mountain
life, '' tell me how you used to hunt buffalo."
" Wnal, there is a good deal of sport in runnin' buffala
When the camp discovered a band, then every man that
wan ' ed to run, made haste to catch his buffalo horse. We
sometimes went out thirty or forty strong ; sometimes two
or three, and at other times a large party started on the
hunt; the more the merrier. We alway had great banter-
ing about our horses, each man, accordiiig to his own
account, having the best one.
" When we first start we ride slow, so as not to alarm
the buffalo. The nearer we come to the band the greater
our excitement. The horses seem to feel it too, and are
worrying to be off. When we come so near that the band
starts, then the word Is given, our liorses' mettle is up,
and away we go !
" Thar may be ten thousand in a band. Directly we
crowd them so close that nothing can be seen but dust,
nor anything heard but th« roar of their trampling and
bellowing. The hunter now keeps close on their heels to
escape being blinded by the dust, which doos not rise as
high as a man on horseback, for thirty yards behind the
animals. As soon as we are close enough the firing begins,
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THE PURSUIT THE CHARQE — TUMBLES.
24r
and the band is on the run; and a herd of buffalo can run,
about as fast as a good race horse. How they do thunder
along ! They give us a pretty sliarp race. Take care !
Down goes a rider, and away goes his horse with the band.
Do you think we stopped to look after the fallen man ?
Not we. We rather thought that war fun, and if he got
killed, why, ' he war unlucky, that war all. Plenty more
men: couldn't bother about hira.'
" Thar's a fat cow ahead. I force my way through the-
band to come up with her. The buffalo cro yd around so-
that I have to put my foot on them, nov; on onesid". now
the other, to keep them off my hor. It is lively work,
I can tell you. A man has to look sba. p not to be run
down by the band pressing him on ; buflaio and horse at
the top of their speed. ' '.-- v ■ - • ?
" Look out ; thar's a ravine ahead, as you can see by the
plunge which the band makes'. Hold up ! or somebody
goes to the d — 1 now. If the band is large it fills the
ravine full to the brim, and the hindmost of the herd pass
over on top of the foremost, it requires horseman-
ship not to be carried over without our own consent ; but
then we mountain-men are all good horsemen. Over the
ravine we go ; but we do it our own way.
"We keep up the chase for about four miles, selecting our
game as we run, and killing a number of fat cows to each
man ; some more and some less. When our horses are
tired we slacken up, and turn back. We meet the '?amp-
keepers with pack-horses. They soon butcher, pack up
the meat, and we all return to camp, whar we laugh at
each other's mishaps, and eat fat meat : and this constitutes
the glory of mountain life."
" But you were going to tell me about the buffalo hunt
at Missouri Lake ?"
" Thar isn't much to tell. It war pretty much like other
tr iJSi
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p^
248
A HUNT WITH THE INDIANS.
buflalo liunts. Thar war a lot of us trappers happened to
bo at a Nez Perce and Flathead village in the Ml of '38,
"when they war agoin' to Jiill winter meat ; and as their
hunt lay in the direction we war going, we joined in. The
old Nez Perce chief, Kow-e-so-te had command of the vil-
lage, and we trappers had to obey him, too.
" We started off slow ; nobody war allowed to go ahead
of camp. In this manner we caused the buffalo to move
on before us, but not to be j larmed. Wq war eight or ten
days traveling from the Beaver-head to Missouri Lake, and
by the time we got thar, the whole plain around the lake
war crowded with buffalo, and it war a splendid sight!
"In the morning the old chief harangued the men of his
village, and ordered us all to get ready for the suiTound.
About nine o'clock every man war mounted, and we began
to move.
" That war a sight to make a man's blood warm ! A
thousand men, all trained hunters, on horseback, caiTying
their gnus, and with their horses painted in the height of
Indians fashion. We advanced until within about half a
mile of the herd ; then the chief ordered us to deploy to
the right and left, until the wings of the column extended
a long way, and advance again.
" By this time the buffalo war all moving, and we had
•come to within a hundred yardr if them. Kowe-so-te then
gave us the word, and away we ent, pell niell. Heavens,
what a charge ! What a rushing and roaring — men shoot-
ing, buffalo bellowing and tWBpUug MUtil the eaitli shook
under them !
"It war the work of half an hour to slay two thoufland
or may be three thousand animals. When the work was
over, we took a view of the Held. Here and there and
everywhere, laid the slain buffalo. Occasionally a horse
"with a broken leg war seen ; or a man with a broken arm;
or maybe he had fared worse, and had a broken head.
-^••■j^X^iU^|.lf
M'
KIT CARSON AND THE FRENCHMAN.
249
" Now came out the women "of the village to help us
butcher and pack up the meat. It war a big job ; but we
war not long about it. By night the camp war full of
meat, and everybody merry. Bridger's camp, which war
passing that way, traded with the village for fifteen hun-
dred buffalo tongues — the tongue being reckoned a choice
part of the animal. And that's the way we helped the
Nez Perces hunt buffalo."
" But when you were hunting for your own subsistence
ill camp, you sometimes went out in small parties ?"
" Oh yes, it war the same thing on a smaller scale. One
time Kit Carson and myself, and a little Frenchman, named
Marteau, went to run buffalo on Powder River. When
we came in sight of the band it war agreed that Kit and
the Frenchman should do the running, and I should stay
with the pack animals. The weather war very cold and I
didn't like my part of the duty much.
"The Frenchman's horse couldn't run; so I lent him
Kit rode his own ; not a good buffalo horse either.
mme.
In running, my horse fell with the Frenchman, and nearly
killed him. Kit, who couldn't make his horse catch,
jumped off, and caught mine, and tried it again. This
time he came up with the band, and killed four fat cows.
" When I came up with the pack-animals, I asked Kit
how he came by Uiy horse. He explained, and wanted to
know if I had seen anything of Marteau : said my horse
had fallen with him, and he thought killed him. ' You
go over the other side of yon hill, and see,' said Kit.
" What'll I do with him if he is dead?" said I.
"tliiii'l, you pack him to camp?"
" Pack — " said I ; " I should rather pack a load of
meat."
" Waul," said Kit, " 111 butcher, if you'll go over and
see, anyhow."
r
250
MOUNTAIN iMANNERS.
" So I went over, and found the dead man leaning his
head on his hand, and groaning: ; for he war pretty bad
hurt. I got him on his horse, though, after a while, and
took him back to whar Kit war at work. We soon finished
the butchering job, and started back to camp with our
wounded Frenchman, and three loads of fat meat."
" You were not very compassionate toward each other,
in the mountains ?"
" That war not our business. We had no time for such
things. Besides, live men war what we wanted j dead
ones war of no account."
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CHAPTER XX.
1838. From Missouri Lake, Meek started alone for the
Gallatin Fork of the Missouri, trapping in a mountain
basin called Gardiner's Hole. Beaver were plenty here,
but it was getting late in the season, and the weather was
cold in the mountams. On his return, in another basin
called the Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo skull; and
knowing that Bridger's camp would soon pass that way,
wrote on it the number of beaver he had taken, and also
his intention to go to Fort Hall to sell them.
In a few days the camp passing found the skull, which
grinned its threat at the angry Booshways, as the chuck-
ling trapper had calculated that it would. To prevent its
execution runners were sent after him, who, however,
failed to find him, and nothing was known of the supposed
renegade for some time. .But as Bridger. passed through
Pierre's Hoi "-n his way to Green river to winter, he was
surprised at Mc ::'s appearance in camp. He was soon
invited to th " iou-re of the Booshways, and called to ac-
count for his b apposed apostacy.
Meek, for a time, would neither deny nor confess, but
put on his free trapper airs, and laughed in the face of
the Booshways. Bridger, who half suspected some trick,
took the matter lightly, but Dripps was very much an-
noyed, and made some threats, at which Meek only
laughed the more. Finally the certificate from their own
trader, Jo Walker, was Droduced, the new pack of furs
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252 AMONG THE NEZ PEROES — ASKING FOR A WITB.
surrendered, and Dripps' wrath turned into smiles of ap-
proval.
Here again Meek parted company with the main camp,
and went on an expedition with seven other trappers, un-
der John Larison, to the Salmon River : but found the
cold very severe on this journey, and the grass scarce and
poor, so that the company lost most of their horses.
On arriving at the Nez Perce village in the Forks of
the Salmon, Meek found the old chief Kow-e-so-te full of
the story of the missionaries and their religion, and anx-
ious to hear preaching. Reports were continually arriv-
ing by the Indians, of the wonderful things which were
being taught by Mr. and Mrs. Spalding at Lapwai, on the
Clearwater, and at Waiilatpu, on the Walla- Walla River.
It was now nearly two years since these missions had been
founded, and the number of converts among the Nez
Perces and Flatheads was already considerable.
Here was an opening for a theological student, such as
Joe Meek was! After some little assumption of modesty,
Meek intimated that he thought himself capable of giv-
ing instruction on religious subjects ; and being pressed
by the chief, finally consented to preach to Kow-e-ao-te^s
people. Taking care first to hold a private council with
his associates, and binding them not to betray him, Meek
preached his first sermon that evening, going regularly
through with the ordinary services of a " meeting."
These services were repeated whenever the Indians
seemed to desire it, until Christmas. Then, the village
being about to start upon a hunt, the preacher took occa-
sion to intimate to the chief that a wife would be an
agreeable present. To this, however, Kow-esc-te de-
murred, saying that Spalding's religion did not permit
men to have two wives : that the Nez Perces had many
of them given up their wives on this account ; and that
! r
POLYGAMY DEFENDED VIRGINIA.
25$
therefore, since Meek already had one wife among the Nez
Perces, he could not have another without being false to
the religion he professed.
To this perfectly clear argument Meek replied, that
among white men, if a man's wife left him without his
consent, as his had done, he could procure a divorce, and
take another wife. Besides, he could tell him how the
Bible related many stories of its best men having several
wives. But Koio-e-so-te was not easily convinced. He
could not see how, if the Bible approved of polygamy,
Spalding should insist on the Indians putting away all
but one of their wives. " However," says Meek, " after
about two weeks' explanation of the doings of Solomon
and David, I succeeded in getting the chief to give me a*
young girl, whom I called Virginia ; — my present wife,
and the mother of seven children."
After accompanying the Indians on their hunt to the
Beaver-head country, where they found plenty of buffalo.
Meek remained with the Nez Perce village until about the
first of March, when he again intimated to the chief that
it was the custom of white men to pay their preachers.
Accordingly the people were notified, and the winter's
salary began to arrive. It amounted altogether to thir-
teen horses, and many packs of beaver, beside sheep-skins
and buffalo-robes ; so that he " considered that with his
young wife, he had mada a pretty good winter's work
of it."
In March he set out trapping again, in company with
one of his comrades named Allen, a man to whom he was
much attached. They traveled along up and down the
Salmon, to Godin's River, Henry's Fork of the Snake, to
Pierre's Fork, and Lewis' Fork, and the Muddy, and
finally set their traps on a little stream that runs out of
the pass which leads to Pierre's Hole.
254
SURPRISED BY BLACKFEET DEATH OP ALLEN.
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Leaving their camp one morning to take up their traps,
they were discovered and attaclced by a party of Black-
feet just as they came near the trapping ground. The only
refuge at hand was a thicket of willows on the opposite
side of the creek, and towards this the trappers directed
their flight. Meek, who was in advance, succeeded in
gaining the thicket without being seen ; but Allen stum-
bled and fell in crossing the stream, and wet his gun. He
quickly recovered his footing and crossed over; but the
Blackfeet had seen him enter the thicket, and came up to
within a short distance, yet not approaching too near the
place where they knew he was concealed. Unfortunately,
Allen, in his anxiety to be ready for defense, commenced
snapping caps on his gun to dry it. The quick ears of the
savage caught the sound, and understood the meaning
of it. Knowing him to be defenceless, they plunged into
the thicket after him, shooting him almost immediately,
and dragging him out still breathing to a small prairie
about two rods away.
And now commenced a scene which Meek was com-
pelled to witness, and which he declares nearly made him
insane through sympathy, fear, horror, and suspense as to
his own fate. Those devils incarnate deliberately cut up
their still palpitating victim into a hundred pieces, each
taking a piece ; accompanying the horrible and inhuman
butchery with every conceivable gesture of contempt for
the victim, and of hellish delight in their own acts.
Meek, who was only concealed by the small patch of
willows, and a pit in the sand hastily scooped out with
his knife until it was deep enough to lie in, was in a state
of the most fearful excitement. All day long he had to
endure the horrors of his position. Every moment seemed
an hour, every hour a day, until when night came, and the
Indians left the place, he was in a high state of fever.
TUE LAST RENDEZVOUS.
255
About nine o'clock that night he ventured to creep to
the edge of the little prairie, where he lay and listened a
long time, without hearing anything but the squirrels
running over the dry leaves; but which he constantly
feared was the stealthy approach of the enemy. At last,
however, he summoned courage to crawl out on to the open
ground, and gradually to work his way to a wooded bluff
not far distant. The next day he found two of his horses,
and with these set out alone for Green River, where the
American Company was to rendezvous. After twenty-six
days of solitary and cautious travel he reached the ap-
pointed place in safety, having suffered fearfully from the
recollection of the tragic scene he had witnessed in the
death of his friend, and also from solitude and want of
food.
The rendezvous of this year was at Bonneville's old
fort on Green River, and was the last one held in the
mountains by the American Fur Company. Beaver was
growing scarce, and competition was strong. On the dis-
banding of the company, some went to Santa Fe, some to
California, others to the Lower Columbia, and a few re-
mained in the mountains trapping, and selling their furs
to the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Hall. As to the
leaders, some of them continued for a few years longer to
trade with the Indians, and others returned to the States,
to lose their fortunes more easily far than they made them.
Of the men who remained in the mountains trapping,
that year. Meek was one. Leaving his wife at Fort Hall,
he set out in company with a Shawnee, named Big Jim,
to take beaver on Salt River, a tributary of the Snake.
The two trappers had each his riding and his pack horse,
and at night generally picketed them all ; but one night
Big Jim allowed one of his to remain loose to graze.
This horse, after eating for some hours, came back and
17
I .1-, I
256
COLD AND STARVATION.
I'll y\
'11
laid down behind the other horses, and every now and
then raised up his head ; which siight movement at length
aroused Big Jim's attention, and his suspicions also.
" My friend," said he in a whisper to Meek, " Indian
steal our horses."
"Jump up and shoot," was the brief answer.
Jim shot, and ran out to see the result. Directly he
came back saying: "My friend, I shoot my horse; break
him neck ;" and Big Jim became disconsolate over what
his white comrade considered a very good joke.
The hunt was short and not very remunerative in furs.
Meek soon returned to Fort Hall ; and when he did so,
found his new wife had left that post in company vith a
party under Newell, to go to Fort Crockett, on Green
River, — Newell's wife being a sister of Virginia's, — on
learning which he started on again alone, to join that party.
On Bear River, he fell in with a portiovi of that Quixotic
band, under Farnham, which was looking for paradise and
perfection, something on the Fourier plan, somewhere in
this western wilderness. They had already made the dis-
covery in crossing the continent, that perfect disinterest-
edness was lacking among themselves; and that the
nearer they got to their western paradise the farther off it
seemed in their own minds.
Continuing his journey alone, soon after parting from
Farnham, he lost the hammer of his gun, which accident
deprived him of the means of subsisting himself, and he
had no dried meat, nor provisions of any kind. The
weather, too, was very cold, increasing the necessity for
food to support animal heat. However, the deprivation
of food was one of the accidents to which mountain-men
were constantly liable, and one from which he had often
suffered severely ; therefore he pushed on, without feeling
any unusual alarm, and had arrived within fifteen miles
I'." -
BETTING UP IN TRADE.
257
of the fort before he yielded to the feeling of exhaustion,
and laid down beside the trail to rest. Whether he would
ever have finished the journey alone he could not tell ; but
fortunately for him, he was discovered by Jo Walker, and
Gordon, another acquaintance, who chanced to pass that
way toward the fort.
Meek answered their hail, and inquired if they had any-
thing to eat. Walker replied in the affirmative, and get-
ting down from his horse, produced some dried buffalo
meat which he gave to the famishing trapper. But seeing
the ravenous manner in which he began to eat. Walker
inquired how long it had been since he had eaten any-
thing.
"Five days since I had a bite."
" Then, my man, you can't have any more just now," said
Walker, seizing the meat in alarm lest Meek should kill
himself.
" It was hard to see that meat packed away again," says
Meek in relating his sufferings, " I told Walker that if my
gun had a hammer I'd shoot and eat him. But he talkec
very kindly, and helped me on my horse, and we all went
on to the Fort."
At Fort Crockett were Newell and his party, the remain-
der of Farnham's party, a trading party under St. Clair, who
owned the fort, Kit Carson, and a number of Meek's former
associates, including Craig and Wilkins. Most of these
men, Othello-like, had lost their occupation since the dis-
banding of the American Fur Company, and were much at
a loss concerning the future. It was agreed betwen Newell
and Meek to take what beaver they had to Fort Hall, to
trade for goods, and return to Fort Crockett, where they
would commence business on their own account with the
Indians.
Accordingly they set out, with one other man belonging
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268
A CASE OF CONSCIENCE.
to Farnhara's former adherents. They traveled to Henry's
Fork, to Black Fork, where Fort Bridger now is, to Bear
River, to Soda Springs, and finally to Fort Hall, suffering
much from cold, and finding very little to eat by the way.
At Fort Hall, which was still in charge of Courtenay
Walker, Meek and Newell remained a week, when, having
purchased their goods and horses to pack them, they once
more set out on the long, cold journey to Fort Crockett.
They had fifteen horses to take care of and only one assist-
ant, a Snake Indian called Al. The return proved an
arduous and difficult undertaking. The cold was very se-
vere ; they had not been able to lay in a sufficient stock of
provisions at Fort Hall, and game tliere was none, on the
route. By the time they arrived at Ham's Fork the only
atom of food they had left was a small piece of bacon which
they had been carefully saving to eat with any poor meat
they might chance to find.
The next morning after camping on Ham's Fork was
stormy and cold, the snow filling the air ; yet Snake Al,
with a promptitude by no means characteristic of him, rose
early and went out to look after the horses.
'By that same token," said Meek to Newell, "Al has
eaten the bacon." And so it . proved, on investigation.
Al's uneasy conscience having acted as a goad to stir him
up to begin his duties in season. On finding his conjec-
ture confirmed. Meek declared his intention, should no
game be found before next day night, of killing and eat-
ing Al, to get back the stolen bacon. But Providence
interfered to save Al's bacon. On the following afternoon
the little party fell in with another still smaller but better
supplied party of travelers, comprising a Frenchman and
his wife. These had plenty of fat antelope meat, which
they freely parted with to the needy ones, whom also they
accompanied to Fort Crockett.
! li i
WAR UPON HORSE THIEVES.
259
It was now Christmas; and the festivities which took
place at the Fort were attended with a good deal of rum
drinking, in which Meek, according to his custom, joined,
and as a considerable portion of their stock in trade
consisted of this article, it may fairly be presumed that
the home consumption of these two "lone traders"
amounted to the larger half of what they had with so
much trouble transported from Fort Hall. In fact, " times
were bad enough " among the men so suddenly thrown
upon their own resources among the mountains, at a time
when that little creature, which had made mountain life
tolerable, or possible, was fast being exterminated. .
To make matters more serious, some of the worst of the
now unemployed trappers had taken to a life of thieving
and mischief which made enemies of the friendly Indians,
and was likely to prevent the better disposed from enjoy-
ing security among any of the tribes. A party of these
renegades, under a man named Thompson, went over to
Snake River to steal horses from the Nez Perces. Not
succeeding in this, they robbed the Snake Indians of about
forty animals, and ran them oiF to the Uintee, the Indians
following and complaining to the whites at Fort Crockett
that their people had been robbed by white trappers, and
demanding restitution.
According to Indian law, when one of a tribe offends,
the whole tribe is responsible. Therefore if whites stole
their horses they might take vengeance on any whites tLey
met, unless the property was restored. In compliance
with this well understood requisition of Indian law, a party-
was made up at Fort Crockett to go and retake the horses,
and restore them to their rightful owners. This party
consisted of Meek, Craig, Newell, Carson, and twenty-five
others, under the command of Jo Walker.
The horses were found on an island in Green River, the
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260
GREEN RIVER CANYON.
robbers having domiciled themselves in an old fort at the
mouth of the Uiutee. In order to avoid having a fight
with the renegades, whose white blood the trappers were
not anxious to spill, Walker made an effort to get the horses
off the island undiscovered. But while horses and men
were crossing the river on the ice, the ice sinking with
them until the water was knee- deep, the robbers discovered
the escape of their booty, and charging on the trappers
tried to recover the horses. In this effort they were not
successful ; while Walker made a masterly flank movement
and getting in Thompson's rear, ran the horses into the
fort, where he stationed his men, and succeeded in keep-
ing the robbers on the outside. Thompson then com-
menced giving the horses away to a village of Utes in the
neighborhood of the fort, on condition that they should
assist in retaking them; On his side, W alker threatened
the Utes with dire vengeance if they dared interfere. The
Utes who had a wholesome fear not only of the trappers,
but of their foes the Snakes, declined to enter into the
quarrel. After a day of strategy, and of threats alterna-
ted with arguments, strengthened by a warlike display,
the trappers marched out of the fort before the faces of
the discomfitted thieves, taking their booty with them,
which was duly restored to the Snakes on their return to
Fort Crockett, and peace secured once more with that
people.
Still times continued bad. The men not knowing what
else to do, went out in small parties in all directions seek-
ing adventures, which generally were not far to find. On
one of these excursions Meek went with a party down the
canyon of Green River, on the ice. For nearly a hundred
miles they traveled down this a^ful canyon without find-
ing but one place where they could have come out ; and
left it at last at the mouth of the Uintee.
RUNNING ANTELOPES.
201
This passed the time until Marcli. Then tlie company
of Newell and Meek was joined by Antoine Rubideau,
who had brought goods from Sante Fe to trade with the
Indians. Setting out in company, they traded along up
Green River to the mouth of Ham's fork, and camped.
The snow was still deep in the mountains, and the trappers
found great sport in running antelope. On one occasion
a, large herd, numbering several hundreds, Avere run on to
the ice, on Green River, where they were crowded into
an air hole, and large numbers slaughtered only for the
cruel sport which they afforded.
But killing antelope needlessly was not by any means
the worst of amusements practiced hi Rubideau's camp.
That foolish trader occupied himself so often and so long
in playing Hand, (an Indian game,) that before he parted
with his new associates he had gambled away his goods,
his horses, and even his wife; so that he returned to Santa
Fe much poorer than nothing — since he was in debt.
On the departure of Rubideau, Meek went to Fort Hall,
and remained in that neighborhood, trapping and trading
for the Hudson's Bay Company, until about the last of
June, when he started for the old rendezvous places of the
American Companies, hoping to find some divisions of them
at least, on the familiar camping ground. But his journey
was in vain. Neither on Green River or Wind River,
where for ten years he had been accustomed to meet the
leaders and their men, his old comrades in danger, did he
find a wandering brigade even. The glory of the Ameri-
can companies was departed, and he found himself solitary
among his long familiar haunts.
With many melancholy reflections, the man of twenty-
eight years of age recalled how, a mere boy, he had fallen
half unawares into the kind of life he had ever since
m^
262
UEFLEUnONS AND HALF-UliSOLVES.
led amonf^st tlio mountains, with only otlior men equally
the vic'lim.s of ci.canistiince, and thu (legraded savages, for
his c()nii)!UiionH. T!»o best that could bo made of it,
suci life had boon and must bo constantly deteriorating
to llie minds and soids of himself and his associates.
Aw.iy from all laws, and refined habits of living; away
from the society of religious, modest, and accomplished
women ; always surrounded by savage scenes, and forced
to cultivate a taste for barbarous things — what had this
life mad" of him ? what was he to do with himself in the
future?
Sick of trapping and hunting, with brief intervals of
carousing, he felt himself to be. And then, even if he
were not, the trade was no longer profitable enough to
support him. What could he do? where could he go?
He remembered his talk with Mrs. Whitman, that fair,
tall, courteous, and dignilied lady who had stirred in him
longings to return to the civilized life of his native state.
But he felt unfit for the society of such as she. Would
he ever, could he ever attain to it now ? He had prom-
ised her he might go over into Oregon and settle down.
But could he settle down ? Should he not starve at try-
ing to do what other men, mechanics and farmers, do?
And as to learning, he had none of it; there wps no hope
then of "living by his wits," as some men did — missiona-
ries and artists and school teachers, some of whom he had
met at the rendezvous. Heigho! to be checkmated in
life at twenty-eight, that would never do.
At Fort Hall, on his return, he met two more missionar
ries and their wives going to Oregon, but these four did
not aflfect him pleasantly ; he had no mind to go with
them. Instead, he set out on what proved to be his last
trapping expedition, with a Frenchman, named Mattileau.
THE LAST TRAPPING EXPEDITION.
2(;;r
They visited the old trapping grounds on Pierre's Fork,
Lewis' Lake, Jackson's River, Jackson's Hole, Lewis
River .Mid Salt River: but beaver were scarce; and it
was with a feeling of relief that, on returning by way
of Bear River, Meek heard fv^n a Frenchman whom
he met there, that he was wanted it Fort Hall, by his
friend Newell, who had somethinf; lo propose to him.
<'..-».
CASTLE BOCK.
Mi
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CHAPTER XXI. •
1840. When Meek arrived at Fort Hall, where Newell
Tvas awaiting him, he found that the latter had there the
two wagons which Dr. Whitman had left at the points ou
the journey where further transportation by their means
had been pronounced impossible. The Doctor's idea of
finding a passable wagon-road over the lava plains and
the heavily timbered mountains lying between Fort Hali
and the Columbia River, seemed to Newell not so wild a
one as it was generally pronounced to be in the moun-
tains. At all events, he was prepared to undertake the
journey. The wagons were put in traveling order, and
horses and mules purchased for the expedition.
" Come," said Newell to Meek, " we are done with this
life in the mountains — done with wading in beaver-dams,
and freezing or starving alternately — done with Indian
trading and Indian fighting. The fur trade is dead in the
Rocky Mountains, and it is no place for us now, if ever it
was. We are young yet, and have life before us. We
cannot waste it here ; we cannot or will not return to the
States. Let us go down to the Wallamet and take farms.
There is already quite a settlement there made by the
Methodist Mission and the Hudson's Bay Company's re-
tired servants.
" I have had some talk with the ^ mericana who have
gone down there, and the talk is that ths ccuivUv is going
to be settled up by our people, and that the Hudson's
THE MOUNTAIN-MEN AS PIONEERS.
265
Bay Company are not gc'ng to rule this country much
longer. What do you say, Meek ? Shall we turn Ameri-
can settlers ?"
" ril go where you do,' Newell. What suits you suits
me."
" I thought you'd say so, and that's why I sent for you,
Meek. In my way of thinking, a white man is a little
better than a Canadian Frenchman. I'll be if I'll
hang 'round a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. So
you'll go?"
" I reckon I will ! What have you got for me to do ?
/ haven't got anything to begin with but a wife and
baby!"
" Well, you can drive one of the w agons, and take your
family and traps along. Nicholas will drive the other,
and I'll play leader, and look after the train. Craig will
go also, so we shall be quite a party, with what strays
we shall be sure to pick up."
Thus it was settled. Thus Oregon began to receive
her first real emigrants, who were neither fuf-traders nor
missionaries, but true frontiersmen — border-men. The
training which the mountain-men had received in the
service of the fur companies admirably fitted them to be,
what afterwards they became, a valuable and indispensa-
ble element in the society of that country in whose pe-
culiar history they played an important part. But we
Kust not anticipate their acts before we have witnessed
their gradual transformation from lawless rangers of the
wilderness, to law-abiding and even law-muking and law-
. executing citizens of an isolated territory.
In order to understand the condition of things in the
Wallamet Valley, or Lower Columbia country, it will be
necessary to revert to the earliest history of that territory,
as sketched in the first chapter of this book. A history
266
CAPTAIN GRAY OP THE SHIP COLUMBIA.
of the fur companies is a history of Oregon up to the
year 1834, so far as the occupation of the country was
concerned. But its political history was begun long be-
fore---frora the time (May 11th, 1792) when the captain
of a New England coasting and fur-trading vessel entered
the great " River of the West," which nations had been
looking for for a hundred years. At the very time when
the inquisitive Yankee was heading his little vessel through
the white line of breakers at the mouth of the long-sought
river, a British exploring expedition was scanning the
shore between it and the Straits of Fuca, having wisely
declared its scientific opinion that there was no such river
on that coast. Vancouver, the chief of that expedition,
so assured the Yankee trader, whose views did not agree
with his own : and, Yankee-like, the trader turned back
to satisfy himself.
A bold and lucky man was Captain Gray of the ship
Columbia. No explorer he — only an adventurous and,
withal, a prudent trader, with an eye to the main chance;
emulous, too, perhaps, of a little glory I It is impossible
to conceive how he could have done this thing calmly.
We think his stout heart must have shivered somewhat,
both with anticipation and dread, as he ran for the " open-
ing," and plunged into the frightful tumult — straight
through the proper channel, thank God! and sailed out
on to the bosom of that beautiful bay, twenty-five miles
by six, which the great river forms at its mouth.
We trust the morning was fine : for then Captain Gray
must have beheld a sight which a discoverer should re-
member for a lifetime. This magnificent bay, surrounded
by lofty hills, clad thick with noble forests of fir, and
fretted along its margin with spurs of the highlands, form-
ing other smaller bays and coves, into which ran streams
whose ^alleys were hidden among the hills. From beyond
DISCOVERY OF THE COLUMBIA.
2G7
the farthest point, whose dark ridge jutted across this in-
land sea, flowed down the deep, broad river, whose course
and origin was still a magnificent mystery, but which in-
dicated by its volume that it drained a mighty region of
probable great fertility and natural wealth. • Perhaps Cap-
tain Gray did not fully realize the importance of his dis-
covery. If the day was fine, with a blue sky, and the
purple shadows lying in among the hills, with smooth
water before him and the foamy breakers behind — if he
felt what his discovery was, in point of importance, to
the world, he was a proud and happy man, and eujcyed
the reward of his daring.
The only testimony on that head is the simple entry on
his log-book, telling us that he had named the river " Co-
hmbia's River^^^ — with an apostrophe, that tiny point
intimating much. This was one ground of the American
claim, though Vancouver, after Gray had reported his
success to him, sent a lieutenant to explore the river, and
then claimed the discovery for England ! The next claim
of the United States upon the Oregon territory was by
virtue of the Florida treaty and the Louisiana purchase.
These, and the general one of natural boundaries, Eng-
land contested also. Hence the treaty of joint occupancy
for a terra of ten years, renewable, unless one of the parties
to it gave a twelve-month's notice of intention to with-
draw. Meantime this question of territorial claims hung
over the national head like the sword suspended by a
hair, which statesmen delight in referring to. We did
not dare to say Oregon was ours, because we were afraid
England would make war on us ; and England did not
dare say Oregon was hers, for the same reason. There-
fore "joint-occupancy" was the polite word with which
statesmen glossed over the fact that Great Britain actually
T^ossessed the country through the monopoly of the Hud-
268
FIRST MISSIONARIES TO THE WALLAMET.
?! •;'■■■
a
i.)'
son's Bay Company. That company had a good thing 30
long as the government of Great Britain prevented any
outbreak, by simply renewing the treaty every ten years..
Their manner of doing business was such as to prevent
any less powerful corporation from interfering with them,
while individual enterprise was sure to be crushed at the'
start. ^
But "man proposes and God disposes." In 1834, the
Methodist Episcopal Board of Missions sent out four mis-
sionaries to labor among the Indians. These were two
preachers, the Rev. Messrs. Jason and Daniel Lee, and
two lay members, Cyrus Shepard and P. L. Edwards.
These gentlemen were liberally furnished with all the
necessaries and comforts of life by the Board, in addition
to which they received the kindest attentions and consid-
eration from the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company at
Vancouver. Their vessel, the May Dacre^ Captain Lam-
bert, had arrived safely in the river with the mission
goods. The gentlemen at Vancouver encouraged their
enterprise, and advised them to settle in the Wallamet
valley, the most fertile tract of country west of the Rocky
Mountains. Being missionaries, nothing was to be feared
from them in the way of trade. The Wallamet valle)
was a good country for the mission — at the same time it
was south of the Columbia River. This latter considera-
tion was not an unimportant one with the Hudson's Bay
Company, it being understood among those in the confi-
dence of the British government, that in case the Oregon
territory had to be divided with the United States, the
Columbia River would probably be made the northern
boundary of the American possessions.
There was nothing in the character of the Christian
Missionary's labor which the Hudson's Bay Company could
possibly object to without a palpable violation of the
DR. JOHN Mclaughlin.
269
Convention of 1818. Therefore, although the Methodist
mission in the Wallamet Valley received a large acces-
sion to its numbers in 1837, they were as kindly wel-
comed as had been those of 1834; and also those Pres-
byterian missionaries of 1836, who had settled in tlu^
" upper country."
Three points, however, the Hudson's Bay Company
insisted upon, so far as, under the treaty, they could :
the Americans must not trade with the Indians, but con-
fine themselves to agricultural pursuits and missionary
labor, and keep on the south side of the Columbia.
Not an immigrant entered Oregon in that day who
did not proceed at once to Vancouver : nor was there
one who did not meet with the most liberal and
hospitable treatment. Neither was this hospitality a tri-
fling l)enefit; to the weary traveler just arrived from a
long and most fatiguing journey, it was extremely wel-
come and refreshing. At Vancouver was the onlj- society^
and the only luxurious living to be enjoyed on the whole
Northwest coast.
At the head of the first was Dr. John McLaughlin, al-
ready mentioned as the Chief Factor, and Deputy Grv-
crnor of the Hudson's Bay Company in Oregon, and all the
Northwest. He was of Scotch origin, and Canadian birth,
a gentleman bred, with a character of the highest integ-
rity, to which were united justice and humanity. His po-
sition as head of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs, was
no enviable one during that period of Oregon history
which followed the advent of Americans in the Wallamet
Valley. Himself a British subject, and a representative
of that powerful corporation which bent the British Gov-
ernment to its will, he was bound to execute its commands
when they did not conflict too strongly with his conscious-
ness of right and justice.
270
EARLY SETTLERS IN THE WALLAMET VALLEY.
As has been stated, the Methodist mission settlement was
reinforced in 1837, by the arrival of about twenty persons,
among whom were several ladies, and a few children.
These, like those preceding them, were first entertained at
Fort Vancouver before proceeding to the mission, which
.vas between fifty and sixty miles up the Wallamet, in the
heart of that delightful valley. These persons came by a
sailing vessel around Cape Horn, bringing with them sup-
plies for the mission.
In the two following years there were about a dozen
missionary arrivals overland, all of whom tarried a short
time at the American Company's rendezvous, as before re-
lated. These were some of them designed for the upper
country, but most of them soon settled in the Wallamet
valley.
During these years, between 1834 and 1840, there had
drifted into the valley various persons from California, the
Bocky Mountains, and from the vessels which sometimes
appeared in the Columbia ; until at the time when Newell
and Meek resolved to quit the mountains, the American
settlers numbered nearly one hundr'^I, men, women, and
children. Of these, about thirty belonged to the missions;
the remainder were mountain-men, sailors, and adventur-
ers. The mountain -Then, most of them, had native wives.
Besides the Americans there were sixty Canadian French-
men, who had been retired upon farms by the Hudson's
Bay Company; and who would probably have occupied
these farms so long as the H. B. Company should have
continued to do business in Oregon.
11 ■ •
CHAPTER XXII
When it was settled that Newell and Meek were to go
to the Wallamet, they lost no time in dallying, but packed
the wagons with whatever they possessed in the way of
worldly goods, topped them with their Nez Perce wives
<and half-breed children, and started for Walla- Walla, ac-
companied by Craig, another mountain-man, and either
followed or accompanied by several others. Meek drove
a five-in-hand team of four horses and one mule. Nicho-
las drove the other team of four horses, and Newell, who
owned the train, was mounted as leader.
The journey was no easy one, extending as it did over
immense plains of lava, round impassable canyons, over
rapid unbridged rivers, and over mountains hitherto be-
lieved to be only passable for pack trains. The honor
which has heretofore been accorded to the Presbyterian
missionaries solely, of opening a wagon road from the
Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River, should in justice
be divided with these two mountaineers, who accomplished
the most difficult part of this difficult journey.
Arrived at Fort Boise, a post of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, the little caravan stopped for a few days to re:U and
recruit their animals. With the usual courtesy of that
Company, Mr. Payette, the trader in charge, offered New-
ell quarters in the fort, as leader of his party. To Meek
and Craig who were encamped outside, he sent a piece of
sturgeon with his compliments, which our incipient Ore-
18
,1
272
WAIILATPU — HELEN MAR.
gonians sent back again with their compliments. No
Hudson's Bay distinctions of rank for them ! No, indeed I
The moment that an American commenced to think of
himself as a settler on the most remote corner of Ameri-
can soil, that moment, as if by instinct, he began to defend
and support his republicanism.
After a few days' rest, the party went on, encountering,
as might be expected, much difficulty and toil, but arriving
safely after a reasonable time at the Columbia River, at
the junction of the Umatilla. Here the wagons and stock
were crossed over, and the party proceeded directly to
Dr. Whitman's mission at Waiilatpu. Dr. Whitman gave
them a friendly reception ; killing for them, if not the fat-
ted calf, the fattest nog he had ; telling Meek at the same
time that " fat pork was good for preachers," referring to
Meek's missionary labors among the Nez Perces.
During the three years since the commencement of the
mission at Waiilatpu considerable advancement had been
made in the progress of civilization among the Cayuses.
Quite a number of Indian children were domesticated with
Mrs. Whitman, who were rapidly acquiring a knowledge
of housekeeping, sewing, reading, and writing, and farm
labor. With Mrs. Whitman, for whom Meek btill enter-
tained great admiration and respect, he resolved to leave
his little girl, Helen Mar ; the fruit of his connexion with
the Nez Perce woman who persisted in abandoning him in
the mountains, as already related. Having thus made
provision for the proper instruction of his daughter, and
conferred with the Doctor on the condition of the Ameri-
can settlers in Oregon — the Doctor being an ardent
American — Meek and his associates started once more for
the Wallamet.
At Walla- Walla Newell decided to leave the wagons,
the weather having become so rainy and disagreeable as
)M
THE DALLES MISSION INDIAN PRAYERS.
273
to make it doubtful about getting them over the Cascade
Mountains that fall. Accordingly the goods were trans-
ferred to pack-horses for the remainder of the journey.
In the following year, however, one of the wagons was
brought down by Newell, and taken to the plains on the
Tualatin River, being the first vehicle of the kind in the
Wallamet Valley.
On arriving at the Dalles of the Columbia, our moun-
tain men found that a mission had been established at that
place for the conversion of those inconscionable thieves,
the Wish-ram Indians, renowned in Indian history for their
acquisitiveness. This mission was under the charge of
Daniel Lee and a Mr. Perkins, and was an offshoot of the
Methodist Mission in the Wallamet Valley. These gentle-
men having found the benighted condition of the Indians
to exceed their powers of enlightment in any ordinary
way, were having recourse to extraordinary efforts, and
were carrying on what is commonly termed a revival ^
though what piety there was in the hearts of these savages
to be revived, it would be diflficult to determine. How-
ever, they doubtless hoped so to wrestle with God them-
selves, as to compel a blessing upon their labors.
The Indians indeed were not averse to prayer. They
could pray willingly and sincerely enough when they could
hope for a speedy and actual material answer to their
prayers. And it was for that, and that only, that they
importuned the Christian's God. Finding that their
prayers were not answered according to their desire, it at
length became difficult to persuade them to pray at all.
Sometimes, it is true, they succeeded in deluding the mis-
eionaries with the belief that they were really converted,
for a time. One of these most hopeful converts at the
Dalles mission, being in want of a shirt and capote, volun-
teered to " pray for a whole year," if Mr. Lee would fur-
nish him with these truly desirable articles.
i;
fe
ilWllT
iifll^i
'ft
I ,
l-H
ti i
I
I
..:? ^
274
THE IMPIOUS CANADIAN.
It is no wonder that with such hopeless material to work
upon the Dalles missionaries withdrew from them a portion
of their zeal, and bestowed it, where it was quite as much
needed, upon any " stray mountain-man " who chanced to
be entertained "within their gates." Newell's party,
among others, received the well-meant, but not always
well-received or appreciated attentions of these gentlemen.
The American mountaineer was not likely to be suddenly
surprised into praying in earnest; and he generally had
too much real reverence to be found making a jest in the
form of a mocking prayer.
Not so scrupulous, however, was Jandreau, a lively
French Canadian, who was traveling in company with the
Americans. On being repeatedly importuned to pray,
with that tireless zeal which distinguishes the Methodist
preacher above all others, Jandreau appeared suddenly to
be smitten with a consciousness of his guilt, and kneeling
in the midst of the 'meeting,' began with clasped hands
and upturned eyes to pour forth a perfect torrent of words.
With wonderful dramatic power he appeared to confess,
to supplicate, to agonize, in idiomatic French. His tears
and ejaculations touched the hear* 3 of the missionaries,
and filled them with gladness. They too ejaculated and
wept, with frequently uttered "Amens" and "hallelujahs,"
until the scene became highly dramatic and exciting. In
the midst of this grand tableau, when the enthusiasm was
at its height, Jandreau suddenly ceased and rose to his feet,
while an irrepressible outburst of laughter from his asso-
ciates aroused the astonished missionaries to a partial com-
prehension of the fact that they had been made the subjects
of a practical joke, though they never knew to exactly
how great an extent.
The mischievous Frenchman had only recited with truly
artistic power, and with such variations as the situation
JANDREAU CALLED TO AN ACCOUNT.
275
BUi'gested, cue of the most wonderful and effective tales
from the Arabian Nights Entertainment^ with which he
was wont to delight and amuse his comrades beside the
winter camp-fire!
But Jandreau was called to account when he an-ived at
Vancouver. Dr. McLaughlin had heard the story from
gome of the party, and resolved to punish the man's irrev-
erence, at the same time that he gave himself a bit of
amusement. Sending for the Rev. Father Blanchet, who
was then resident at Vancouver, he informed him of the
circumstance, and together they arranged Jandreau's pun-
ishment. He was ordered to appear in their united pres-
ence, and make a true statement of the aftair. Jandreau
confessed that he had done what he was accused of do-
ing— made a mock of prayer, and told a tale instead of
offering a supplication. He was then ordered by the Rev.
Father to rehearse the scene exactly as it occurred, in or-
der that he might judge of the amount of his guilt, and
apportion him his punishment.
Trembling and abashed, poor Jandreau fell upon his
kaees and began the recital with much trepidation. But
as he proceeded he warmed with the subject, his dramatic
instinct asserted itself, tears streamed, and voice and eyes
supplicated, until this second representation threatened to
outdo the first. With outward gravity and inward mirth
his two solemn judges listened to the close, and when Jan-
dreau rose quite exhausted from his knees. Father Blan-
chet hastily dismissed him with an admonition and a
light penance. As the door of Dr. McLaughlin's office
closed behind him, not only the Doctor, but Father Blan-
chet indulged in a burst of long restrained laughter at
the comical absurdities of this impious Frenchman.
To return to our immigrants. On leaving the Dalles
they proceeded on down the south side of the river as fax
276
DOWN THE COLUMBIA.
Mi
m ■ I
1 ■ ';<1
as practicable, or opposite to the Wind Mountain. At this
point the Indians assisted to cross them over to the north
side, when they again made their way along the river as
far as Tea Prairie above Vancouver. The weather was
execrable, with a pouring rain, and sky of dismal gray ;
December being already far advanced. Our travelers
were not in the best of humors : indeed a saint-like amia-
bility is seldom found in conjunction with rain, mud, fa-
tigue, and an empty stomach. Some ill-natured suspicions
were uttered to the effect that the Indians who were assist-
ing to cross the party at this point, had stolen some ropes
that were missing.
Upon this dishonorable insinuation the Indian heart was
fired, and a fight became imminent. This undesirable cli-
max to emigrant woes was however averted by an attack
upon the indignant natives with firebrands, when they
prudently retired, leaving the travelers to pursue their
way in peace. It was on Sunday that the weary, dirty,
hungry little procession arrived at a place on the Walla-
met River where the present town of Milwaukie is situa-
ted, and found here two missionaries, the Rev. Messrs.
Waller and Beers, who were preaching to the Indians.
Meek immediately applied to Mr. Waller for some pro-
visions, and received for answer that it was " Sunday."
Mr. Waller, however, on being assured that it was no more
agreeable starving on Sunday than a week-day, finally al-
lowed the immigrants to have a peck of small potatoes.
But as a party of several persons could not long subsist on
so short allowance, and as there did not seem to be any
encouragement to expect more from the missionaries, there
was no course left to be pursued but to make an appeal to
Fort Vancouver.
To Fort Vancouver then, Newell went the next day,
and returned on the following one with some dried sal-
DEPENDENCE ON FORT VANCOUVEU,
277
mon, tea, sugar, and sea-bread. It was not quite what the
mountain-men could have wished, tliis dependence on the
Hudson's Bay Company for food, and did not quite agree
with what they had said when their hearts were big in the
mountains. Being patriotic on a full stomach is easy com-
pared to being the same thing on an empty one ; a truth
which became more and more apparent as the winter pro-
gressed, and the new settlers found that if they would eat
they must ask food of some person or persons outside of
the Methodist Mission. And outside of that there was in
all the country only the Hudson's Bay Coin})any, and a
few mountain-men like themselves, who had brought noth-
ing into the country, and could gee nothing out of it at
present.
There was but short time in which to consider what
was to be done. Newell and Meek went to Wallamet
Falls, the day after Newell's return from A'ancouver, and
there met an old comrade. Doughty, who was looking for
a place to locate. The three made their camp together
on the west side of the river, on a hill overlooking the
Falls. While in camp they were joined by two other
Rocky Mountain men, Wilkins and Ebbarts, who were also
looking for a place to settle in. There were now six of
the Rocky Mountain men together ; and they resolved to
push out into the plains to the west of them, and see what
could be done in the matter of selecting homes.
As for our hero, we fear we cannot say much of him
here which would serve to render him heroic in criticising
Yankee eyes. He was a mountain-man, and that only.
He had neither book learning, nor a trade, nor any knowl-
edge of the simplest affairs appe ammg to the ordinary
ways of getting a living. He had only his strong hands,
and a heart naturally stou+ and light.
His friend Newell had the advantage of him in several
,.J!ffT
ir •r;
278
THE TUALATIN PLAINS.
i|i
;
particulars. He had rather more book-knowledge, more
business experience, and also more means. With these
ad^^'antages he became a sort of "Booshway" among his
old comrades, who consented to follow his lead in the im-
portant movement about to be made, and settle in the
Tualatin Plains should he decide to do so.
Accordingly camp was raised, and the party proceeded
to the Plains, where they arrived on Christmas, and went
into camp again. The hardships of mountain life were
light compared to the hardships of this winter. For in
the mountains, when the individual's resources were ex-
hausted, there was always the Company to go to, which
was practically inexhaustible. Should it be necessary, the
Company was always willing to become the creditor of a
good mountain-man. And the debtor gave himself no
uneasiness, because he knew that if he lived he could dis-
charge his indebtedness. But everything was dijBferent
now. There was no way of paying debts, even if there
had been a company willing to give them credit, which
there was not, at least among Americans. Hard times
they had seen in the mountains ; harder times they were
likely to see in the valley ; indeed were already experi-
encing.
Instead of fat buffalo meat, antelope, and mountain
mutton, which made the plenty of a camp on Powder
River, our carniverous hunters were reduced to eating"
daily a little boiled wheat. In this extremity, Meek went
on an expedition of discovery across the highlands that
border the Lower Wallaraet, and found on WappatoO'
(now Sauvis) Island, a Mr. and Mrs. Baldra living, who
were in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
drew rations from them. With great kindness they
divided the provisions on hand, furnishing him with dried
salmon and sea-bread, to wh ich he added ducks and swans.
A DISAGUKEABLE WINTER.
279^
procured from the Indians. Poor and scanty as was the
supply thus obtained, it was, after boiled wheat, compara-
tive luxury while it lasted.
1841. The winter proved a very disagreeable one.
Considerable snow fell early, and went off with heavy
rains, flooding the whole country. The little camp on
the Tualatin Plains had no defence from the weather bet-
ter than Indian lodges, and one small cabin built by
Doughty on a former visit to the Plains ; for Doughty had
been one of the first of the mountain-men to come to the'
Wallamet on the breaking up of the fur companies. In-
dian lodges, or no lodges at all, were what the men were'
used to ; but in the dryer climate of the Rocky Moun-
tains it had not seemed such a miserable life, as it now
did, where, for months together, the ground was saturated,
with rain, while the air was constantly charged with'
vapor.
As for going anywhere, or doing anything, either were
equally impossible. No roads, the streams all swollen and
out of banks, the rains incessant, there was nothing for
them but to remain in camp and wait for the return of
spring. When at last the rainy season was over, and the^
sun shining once more, most of the mountain-men in the
Tualatin Plains camp took land-claims and set to work
improving them. Of those who began farming that
spring, were Newell, Doughty, Wilkins, and Walker.
These obtained seed- wheat from the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, also such farming implements as they must have,,
and even oxen to draw the plow through the strong
prairie sod. The wheat was to be returned to the com-
pany— the cattle also ; and the farming implements paid
for whenever the debtor became able. This was certainly
libf^ral conduct on the part of a company generally un-
derstood to be opposed to American settlement.
Il
', i
CHAPTER XXIII.
1841. When spring opened, Meek assisted Newell in
breaking the ground for wheat. This done, it became nec-
essary to look out for some immediately paying employ-
ment. But paying occupations were hard to find in that
new country. At last, like everybody else, Meek found
himself, if not "hanging about," at least frequently visit-
ing Vancouver. Poor as he was, and unpiomising as
looked the future, he "w s the same light-hearted, reckless,
".nd fearless Joe Meek that he had been in the mountains :
as jaunty and jolly a ragged mountaineer as ever was seen
at the Fort. Especially he delighted in recounting his In-
dian fights, because the Company, and Dr. McLaughlin in
particular, disapproved the American Company's conduct
with the Indians.
When the Doctor chanced to overhear Meek's stories,
as he sometimes did, he would say "Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, — (a
habit the Doctor had of speaking rapidly, and repeating
his words,) — Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, you must leave off kilUng
Indians, and go to work."
"I can't work," Meek would answer in his impressively
slow and smooth utterance, at the same time giving his
shoulders a slight shrug, and looking the Doctor pleasantly
in the face.
During the summer, however, the United States Explor-
ing Squadron, under Commodore Wilkes, entered the Co-
lumbia River, and proceeded to explore the country in
several directions ; and it was now that Meek found an
1
INTERCHANGE OP COURTESIES AT VANCOUVER.
281
employment suited to him ; being engaged by Wilkes as
pilot and servant while on his several tours through the
country.
On the arrival of three vessels of the squadron at Van-
couver, and the first ceremonious visit of Dr. McLaughlin
and his associates to Commodore Wilkes on board, there
was considerable display, the men in the yards, saluting,
and all the honors due to the representative of a friendly
foreign power. After dinner, while the guests were walk-
ing on deck engaged in conversation, the talk turned up-
on the loss of the Peacock, one of the vessels belonging
to the U. S. squadron, which was wrecked on the bar ac
the mouth of the Columbia, The English gentlemen were
polite enough to be expressing their regrets at the loss to
the United States, when Meek, who had picked up a little
history in spite of his life spent in the mountains, laugh-
ingly interrupted with :
"No loss at all, gentlemen. Uncle Sam can get another
Peacock the way he got that one."
Wilkes, who probably regretted the allusion, as not be-
ing consonant with the spirit of hospitality, passed over
the interruption in silence. But when the gentlemen from
Vancouver had taken l^ave he turned to Meek with a
meaning twinkle in his eyes :
"Meek," said he, "go down to my cabin and you'll find
there something good to eat, and some first-rate brandy."
Of course Meek went.
While Wilkes was exploring in the Cowelitz Valley,
with Meek and a Hudson's Bay man named Forrest, as
guides, he one day laid down in his tent to sleep, leaving
his chronometer watch lying on the camp-table beside
him. Forrest, happening to observe that it did not agree
with his own, which he believed to be correct, very kii ^ly,
as he supposed, regulated it to agree with his. On awak-
282
LAND EXPEDITION TO CALIFORNIA.
ening and taking up his watcli, a puzzled expression came
over Wilkes' face for a moment, as he discovered the
change in the time ; then one of anger and disappoint-
ment, as what had occurred flashed over his mind ; fol-
lowed by some rather strong expressions of indignation.
Forrest was penitent when he perceived the mischief done
by his meddling, but that would not restore the chronom-
eter to the true time : and this accident proved a serious
annoyance and hindrance during the remainder of the
expedition. * ' • ^ •
After exploring the Cowelitz Valley, Wilkes dispatched
a party under Lieutenant Emmons, to proceed up the
Wallamet Valley, thence south along the old trail of the
Hudson's Bay Company, to California. Meek was em-
ployed to pilot this party, which had reached the head of
the valley, when it became necessary to send for some pa-
pers in the possession of the Commodore ; and he returned
to Astoria upon this duty. On joining Emmons again he
found that some of his men had become disaffected toward
him; especially Jandreau, the same Frenchman who
prayed so dramatically at the Dalles.
Jandreau confided to Meek that he hated Emmons, and
intended to kill him. The next morning when Lieut E.
was examining the arms of the party, he fired off Jaii-
dreau's gun, which being purposely overcharged, flew
back and inflicted some injuries upon the Lieutenant.
"What do you mean by loading a gun like that?" in-
quired Emmons, in a rage.
"I meant it to kill two Injuns; — one before, and one
behind ;" answered Jandreau.
As might be conjectured Jandreau was made to fire his
own gun after that.
The expedition had not proceeded much farther when
it again became necessary to send an express to Vancou-
A VISIT TO THE NEW MISSION.
283
ver, and Meek was ordered upon this duty. Here he
found that Wilkes had purchased a small vessel which he
named the Oregon^ with which he was about to leave the
country. As there was no further use for his services our
quondam trapper was again thrown out of employment.
In this exigency, finding it necessary to make some pro-
vision for the winter, he became a gleaner of wheat in the
fields of his more provident neighbors, by which means a
sufiicient supply was secured to keep himself and his small
family in food until another spring.
When winter set in, Meek paid a visit to the new mis-
sion. He had been there once before, in the spring, to
buy an axe. Think, 0 reader, of traveling fift-' or more
miles, on horseback, or in a small boat, to procure so sim-
ple and necessary an article of civilized life as an axe !
But none of the every-day conveniencies of living grow
spontaneously in the wilderness — more's the pity : — else
life in the wilderness would be thought more delightful
far than life in the most luxurious of cities ; inasmuch as
Nature is more satisfying than art.
Meek's errand to the mission on this occasion was to
find whether he could get a cow, and credit at the same
time: for the prospect of living for another winter on
boiled wheat was not a cheerful one. He had not suc-
ceeded, and was returning, when at Champoeg he met
<a Mr. Whitcom, superintendent of the mission farm. A
conversation took place wherein Meek's desire for a cow
became known. The missionaries never lost an opportu-
nity of proposing prayers, and Mr. Whitcom thought this
a good one. After showing much interest in the condi-
tion of Meek's soul, it was proposed that he should pray.
"/can't pray: that's your business, not mine," said
Meek pleasantly.
284
PRAYING FOR A COW.
"It is every man's business to pray for himself," an-
swered Whitcom. ' ' '' '■■ '•
"Very well; some other time will do for that. What
I want now is a cow."
"How can you expect to get what you want, if you
wont ask for it ?" inquired Whitcom.
"I reckon I have asked you ; and I don't see nary cow
yet."
"You must ask God, my friend: but in the first place
you must pray to be forgiven for your sins."
"I'll tell you what I'll do. If you will furnish the cow,
I'll agree to pray for half an h ar, right here on the
spot." ^ ' -
"Down on your knees then."
" You'll furnish the cow ?"
"Yes," said Whitcom, fairly cornered.
Down on his knees dropped the merry reprobate, and
prayed out his half hour, with how much earnestness only
himself and God knew.
But the result was what he had come for, a cow ; for
Whitcom was as good as his word, and sent him home re-
joicing. And thus, with what he had earned from Wilkes,
his gleaned wheat, and his cow, he contrived to get
through another winter.
Perhaps the most important personal event which dis^
tinguished this year in Meek's history, was the celebra-
tion, according to the rites of the Christian church, of his
marriage with the Nez Perce woman who had already
borne him two children, and who still lives, the mother
of a family of seven.
CHAPTER XXiy.
1842. By the opening of another spring, Meek had
so far overcome his distaste for farm labor as to put in a
field of wheat for himself, with Doughty, and to make
some arrangements about his future subsistence. This
done, he was ready, as usual, for anything in the way of
adventure which might turn ' up. This was, however, a
very quiet summer in the little colony. Important events,
were brooding, but as yet results were not perceptible,
except to the mind of a prophet. The Hudson's Bay
Company, conformably to British policy, were at work
to turn the balance of power in Oregon in favor of Brit-
ish occupation, and, unknown even to the colonists, the
United States Government was taking what measures it
could to shift the balance in its own favor. Yery little
was said about the subject of government claims among
the colonists, but a feeling of suspense oppressed all
parties.
The work of putting in wheat and improving of farms
had just begun to slacken a little, when there was an ar-
rival in the Columbia River of a vessel from Boston — the
Ghenamus, Captain Couch. The Ghenamus brought a
cargo of goods, which were placed in store at Wallamet
Falls, to be sold to the settlers, being the first successful
attempt at trade ever made in Oregon, outside of the
Hudson's Bay and Methodist Mission stores.
When the Fourth of July came, the Ghenamus waa
ra^
28G
THE FOURtH OF JULY.
lying in the Walkmet, below the Falls, near where the
present city of Portland stands. Meek, who was always
first to be at any spot where noise, bustle, or excitement
might be anticipated, and whose fine humor and fund of
anecdote made him always welcome, had borrowed a boat
from Capt. Couch's clerk, at the Falls, and gone down to
the vessel early in the morning, before the salute for the
•Glorious Fourth was fired. There he remained all day,
enjoying a patriotic swagger, and an occasional glass of
something good to drink. Other visitors came aboard
during the day, which was duly celebrated to the satisfac-
tion of all. ' ■ ; . ^v ' (-n! :
Towards evening, a party from the Mission, wishing to
return to the Falls, took possession of Meek's borrowed
boat to go off with. Now was a good opportunity to
show the value of free institutions. Meek, like other
mountain -men, felt the distance which the missionaries
placed between him and themselves, on the score of their
moral and social superiority, and resented the freedom
with which they appropriated what he had with some
trouble secured to himself Intercepting the party when
more than half of them were seated in the boat, he in-
formed them that they were trespassing upon a piece of
property which for the present belonged to him, and for
which he had a very urgent need. Vexed by the delay,
and by having to relinquish the boat to a man who, ac-
cording to their view of the case, could not "read his
title clear," to anything either on earth or in heaven, the
missionaries expostulated somewhat warmly, but Meek in-
sisted, and so compelled them to wait for some better
opportunity of leaving the ship. Then loading the boat
with what was much more to the purpose — a good supply
of provisions, Meek proceeded to drink the Captain's
health in a very ostentatious manner, and take his leave.
INDIA2I DISTURBANCES IN THE UPPER COUNTRY.
28^
In the meantime, Dr. Marcus Wliitman, of the Waii-
latpu Mission, in the upper country, was so fearful of the
intentions of the British government that he set out for
Washington late in the autumn of 1842, to put the Sec-
retary of State on his guard concerning the boundary
question, and to pray that it might be settled conformably
with the wishes of the Americans in Oregon.
There was one feature, however, of this otherwise
rather entertaining race for possession, which was becom-
ing quite alarming. In all this strife about claiming the
country, the Indian claim had not been considered. It
has been already intimated that the attempt to civilize or
Christianize the Indians of western Oregon was practically
an entire failure. But they were not naturally of a war-
like disposition, and had been so long under the control
of the Hudson's Bay Company that there was compara-
tively little to apprehend from them, even though they
felt some discontent at the incoming immigration.
But with the Indians of the upper Columbia it was dif-
ferent ; especially so with the tribes among whom the
Presbyterian missionaries were settled — the Walla- Wallas,
Cayuses, and Nez Perces, three brave and powerful na-
tions, much united by intermarriages. The impression
which these people had first made on the missionaries was
very favorable, their evident intelligence, inquisitiveness,
and desire for religious teachings seeming to promise a
good reward of missionary labor. Dr. Whitman and his
associates had been diligent in their efforts to civilize and
Christianize them — to induce the men to leave off their
migratory habits and learn agriculture, and the women to
learn spinning, sewing, cooking, and all the most essential
arts of domestic life. At the first, the novelty of these
new pursuits engaged their interest, as it also excited
their hope of gain. But the task of keeping them to
19
|v>
288
DISCONTENT OF THE INDIANS.
ma
f ii!
their work with sufficient steadiness, was very great.
Thiiy require(J, like children, to be bribed with promises
of more or less immediate reward of tlieir exertions, nor
would they relinquisli the fulfilment of a promise, even
though they had failed to perform the conditions on which
the promise became bimling.
By-and-by they made the discovery that neither the
missionaries could, nor the white man's God did, confer
upon them what they desired — the enjoyment of all the
blessings of the white men — and that if they wished ta
enjoy these blessings, they must labor to obtain them.
This discovery was very discouraging, inasmuch as the
Indian nature is decidedly averse to steady labor, and
they could perceive that very little was to be expected
from any progress which could be achieved in one gen*
eration. As for the Christian faith, they understood about
as much of its true spirit as savages, with the law of
blood written in their hearts, could be expected to under-
stand. They looked for nothing more nor less than the
literal fulfilment of the Bible promises — nothing less
would content them ; and as to the forms of their new
religion, they liked them well enough — ^liked singing and
praying, and certain orderly observances, the chiefs lead-
ing in these as in other matters. So much interest did
they discover at first, that their teachers were deceived
as to the actual extent of the good they were doing.
As time went on, however, there began to be cause for
mutual dissatisfaction. The Indians became aware that
no matter how many concessions their teachers made to
them, they were still the inferiors of the whites, and that
they must ever remain so. But the thought which pro-
duced the deepest chagrin was, that they had got these
white people settled amongst them by their own invita*
tion and aid, and that now it was evident they were not
MISSION STATIONS OF THE UPPER COUNTRY.
289
to be benefited as had been hoped, as the whites were
turning their attention to benefiting themselves.
As early as 1839, Mr. Smith, an associate of Mr. Spald-
ing in the country of the Nez Pcrees, was forbidden by
the high chief of the Nez Perces to cultivate the ground.
He had been permitted to build, but was assured that if he
broke the soil for the purpose of farming it, the ground
so broken should serve to bury him in. Still Smith went
on in the spring to prepare for ploughing, and the chief
seeing him readj'' to begin, inquired if he recollected that
he had been forbidden. Yet persisting in his undertaking,
several of the Indians came to him and taking him by the
shoulder asked him again "if he did not know that the hole
he should make in the earth would be made to serve for
his grave." Upon which third warning Smith left off, a,nd
quitted the country. Other missionaries also left for the
Wallamet Valley.
In 1842 there were three mission stations in the upper
country ; that of Dr. Whitman at Waiilatpu on the Walla-
Walla River, that of Mr. Spalding on the Clearwater River,
called Lapwai, and another on the Spokane River, called
Cimakain. These missions were from one hundred and
twenty to three hundred miles distant from each other,
and numbered altogether only about one dozen whites of
both sexes. At each of these stations there was a small
body of land under cultivation, a few cattle and hogs, a
flouring and saw mill, and blacksmith shop, and such im-
provements as the needs of the mission demanded. The
Indians also cultivated, under the direction of their teq,ch-
ers, some little patches of ground, generally but a small
garden spot, and the fact that they did even so much was
very creditable to those who labored to instruct them.
Jhere was no want of ardor or industry in the Presbyterian
r"- k;\
200 THE MISSIONARIES INSULTED AND THREATENED.
mia-sion; on the contrary they applied themselves conscien-
tiously to the work they had undertaken.
But this conscientious discharge of duty did not give
them immunity from outrage. Both Mr. Spaldiii<|f and Dr.
Whitman had been rudely handled by the Indians, had
been struck and spat upon, and had nose and oars pulled.
Even the delicate and devoted Mrs. Spalding had been
grossly insulted. Later the Cayuscs had assailed Dr. Whit-
man in his house with war-clubs, and broken down doors
of communication between the private apartments and the
public sitting room. Explanations and promises generally
followed these acts of outrage, yet it would seem that the
missionaries should have been warned.
Taking advantage of Dr. Whitman's absence, the Cayuses
had frightened Mrs. Whitman from her home to the Meth-
odist mission at the Dalles, by breaking into her bed-cham-
ber at night, with an infamous design from which she
barely escaped, and by subsequently burning down the
mill and destroying a considerable quantity of grain.
About the same time the Nez Perces at the Lapwai mission
were very iusolent, and had threatened Mr. Spalding's life ;
all of wh'cb, one would say, was but a poor return for the
care avA iiistruction bestowed upon them during six years
of ]>atient effort on the part of their teachers. Poor aa it
was, the Indians did not see it in that light, but only
thought of the danger which threatened them, in the possi-
ble loss of their country.
fi 'i ■
1?!^ n.
MM
CHAPTER XXV.
1842-3. The plot thickened that winter, in the little
drama being enacted west of the Rocky Mountains.
The forests which clad the mountains and foot-hills in
perpetual verdure, and the thickets which skirted the nu-
merous streams flowing into the Wallamet, all abounded
in wild animals, whose depredations upon the domestic
cattle, lately introduced into the country, were a serious
dra.wback to their natural increase. Not a settler, owning
cattle or hogs, but had been robbed more or less fre-
quently by the wolves, bears, and panthers, which prowled
unhindered in the vicinity of their herds.
This was a ground of common interest to all settlers of
whatever allegiance. Accordingly, a notice was issued
that a meeting would be held at a certain time and place,
to consider the best means of preventing the destruction
of stock in the country, and all persons interested were
invited to attend. This meeting was held on the 2d of
February, 1843, and was ijvell attended by both classes of
colonists. It served, however, only as a preliminary step
to the regular "Wolf Association" meeting which took
place a month later. At the meeting, on the 4th of March,
there was a full attendance, and the utmost harmony pre-
vailed, notwithstanding there was a well-defined suspicion
in the minds of the Canadians, that they were going to be
called upon to furnish protection to something more than
the cattle and hogs of the settlers.
292
THE WOLF ASSOCIATION.
After the proper parliamentary fornix, and the choosing
of the necessary officers for the Association, the meeting
proceeded to fix the rate of bounty for each animal killed
by any one out of the Association, viz: $3.00 for a large
wolf; $1.50 for a lynx; $2.00 for a bear; and $5.00 for
a panther. The money to pay these bounties was to be
raised by subscription, and handed over to the treasurer
for disbursement ; the currency being drafts on Fort Van-
ce uver, the Mission, and the Milling Company; besides
wheat and other commodities.
This business being arranged, the real object of the
meeting was announced in this wise :
" Resolved^ — That a committee be appointed to take into
consideration the propriety of taking measures for the
civil and military protection of this colony."
A committee of twelve were then selected, and 4he
meeting adjourned. But in that committee there was a
most subtle mingling of all the eleraents-^-missioriaries,
mountain-men, and Canadians — an attempt by an offer of
the honors, to fuse into one all the several divisions of po-
litical sentiment in Oregon.
On the 2d day of May, 1843, the committee appointed
March 4th to "take into consideration the propriety of tak-
ing measures for the civil and military protection of the
colony," met at Champoeg, the Canadian settlement, and
presented to the people their ultimatum in favor of organ-
king a provisional government.
On a motion being made ,hat the report of the comnpiit-
tee should be accepted, it was put to vote, and lost. All
was now confusion, various expressions of disappointment
or gratification being mingled in one tempest of sound.
When the confusion had somewhat subsided, Mr. G. W.
LeBreton made a motion that the meeting shot'd divide ;
those who were in favor of an organization taking their
REPORT ACCEPTED — THE DIE CAST.
293
positions on the right hand ; and those opposed to it on
the left, marching into file. The proposition carried ; and
Joe Meek, who, in all this historical reminiscence we have
almost lost sight of — though he had not lost sight of
events- -stepped to the front, with a characteristic air of
the free-born American in his gait and gestures: —
"Who's for a divide! All in favor of the Report, and
an Organization, follow me!" — then marched at the head
of his column, which speed'ly fell into line, as did also the
opposite party.
Ou counting, fifty-t\> j were found to be on the right
hand side, and fifty on the left, — so evenly were the
two parties balanced at that time. When the result was
made known, once more Meek's voice rang out —
"Three cheers for our side!"
It did not need a second invitation ; but, loud and long
the shout went up for Freedom ; and loudest and longest
were heard the voices of the American "mountain-men."
Thus the die was cast which made Oregon ultimately a
member of the Federal Union.
The business of the meeting was concluded by the elec-
tion of a Supreme Judge, with probate powers, a clerk
of the court, a sheriff, four magistrates, four constables,
a treasurer, a mayor, and a captain, — the two latter ofl&-
cers being instructed to form companies of mounted rifle-
men. In addition to these officers, a legislative committee
was chosen, consisting of nine members, who were to re-:
port to the people at a public meeting to be held at Cham-
poeg on the 5th of July following. Of the legislative
committee, two were mountain-men, with whose names the
reader is familiar — Newell and Bought}'. Among the
other appointments, was Meek, to the office of sherifl'; a
position for which his personal qualities of courage and
good humor admirably fitted him in the then existing state
of society.
■Mm
CHAPTER XX' I
The immigration into Oregon of the year 1843, was
the first since Newell and Meek, who had brought wagons
through to the Columbia River ; and in all numbered
nearly nine hundred men, women, and children. These
immigrants were mostly from Missouri and other border
States. They had been assisted on their long and peril-
ous journey by Dr. Whitman, whose knowledge of the
route, and the requirements of the undertaking, made him
an invaluable counselor, as he was an untiring fiif ud of
ihe immigrants. " - Aft''
At the Dalles of the Columbia the wagons v< i ^ o'pi
doned ; it being too late in the season, and the wan i -f
the immigrants too pressing, admit of an effort beiug
made to cut out a wagon road through tlie heavy timber
of the Cascade mountains. Already a trail had been made
over them and around the base of Mount Hood, by which
rattle could be driven from the Dalles to the settlements
on the Wallamet ; ax A by this routo L mttle belonging to
the train, amounting to thirteen hundred, ■^^'Tj passed
over into the valley. . . "^^
But for the people, especially the women and children,
active and efficient help wa" deraanded. There was some-
thing truly touching and ^>itia,ble i;\ i/'mc appearance of these
hundreds of worn-out, ragged, dUii-uarnt, dusty, emaciated,
yet indomitable pioneers, who, after a journey of nearly
two thousand miles, and of several months duration, over
843, was
t wagons
umbered
. These
r border
md peril-
je of the
narl': him
fri< u i f(f
wan' i ii
)vt beiug
y timber
en made
>y which
tlementfr
nging to
^>assed
Mciren,
as some-
of these
aciated,
f nearly
on, over
PITIABLE CONDITION OF THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN. 295-
fertile plains, barren deserts, and rugged mountains, stood
at last beside the graud and beautiful river of their hopes,
exhausted by the toils of their pilgrimage, dejected and
yet rejoicing.
Much they would have liked to rest, even here; but
their poverty admitted of no delay. The friends to-
whom they were going, and from whom they must exaci
and receive a temporary hospitality, were still separated,
from them a weary and dangerous way. They delayed as
little as possible, yet the fall rains came upon them, and
snow fell in the mountains, so as seriously to impede the
labor of driving the cattle, and hunger and sickness began,
to affright them.
In this unhappy situation they might have remained a.
long time, had there been no bett dr dependence than the
American settlers already in the valley, with the Metho-
dist Mission at their head.; for from them it does not ap-
pear that aid came, nor that any provision had been made
by them to assist the expected immigrants. As usual in
these crises, it was the Hudson's Bay Company who came
to the rescue, and, by the offer of boats, made it possible
for those families to reach the Wallamet. Not only were
the Hudson's Bay Company's boats all required, but canoes
and rafts were called into requisition to transport passen-
gers and goods. No one, never having made the voyage
of the Columbia from above the Dalles to Vancouver,
could have an adequate idea of the perils of the passage,
as it was performed in those days, by small boats and the-
flat-bottomed "Mackinaw" boats of the Hudson's Bay
Company. The Canadian "voyageurs," who handled a
boat as a good rider governs a horse, were not always
able to make the passage without accident : how, then,
could the clumsy landsmen, who were more used to !:he
feel of a plow handle than an oar, be expected to do so ?
296
PERILS OF THE COLUMBIA.
I lit
Numerous have been the victims suddenly clutched from
life by the grasp of the whirlpools, or dashed to death
among the fearful rapids of the beautiful, but wild and
pitiless, Columbia.
The immigration of 1843 did not escape without loss
and bereavement. Three brothers from Missouri, by the
name of Applegate, with their families, were descending
the river together, when, by the striking of a boat on a
Tock in the rapids, a number of passengers, mostly child-
ren of these gentlemen, were precipitated into the fright-
ful current. The brothers each had a son in this boat,
one of whom was lost, another injured for life, and the
third escaped as by a miracle. This last boy was only
ten years of age, yet such was the presence of mind and
courage displayed in saving his own and a companion's
life, that the miracle of his escape might be said to be his
own. Being a good swimmer, he kept himself valiantly
-above the surface, while being tossed about for nearly two
miles. Succeeding at last in grasping a feather bed which
was floating near him, he might have passed the remain-
ing rapids without serious danger, had he not been seized,
as it were, by the feet, and drawn down, down, into a
seething, turning, roaring abyss of water, where he was
held, whirling about, and dancing up and down, striking
now and then upon the rocks, until death seemed not
-only imminent but certain. After enduring this violent
whirling and dashing for what seemed a hopelessly long
period of time, he was suddenly vomited forth by the
whirlpool once more upon the surface of the rapids, and,
notwithstanding the bruises he had received, was able, by
•great exertion, to throw himself near, and seize upon a
ledge of rocks. To this he clung with desperation, until,
hy dint of much effort, he finally drew himself out of the
water, and stretched himself on the narrow shelf, where,
mt
WONDERFUL ESCAPE OF YOUNG APPLEGATE.
297
for a moment, he swooned away. But on opening his
eyes, he beheld, struggling in the foaming flood, a young
man who had been v. passenger in the wrecked boat with
himself, and who, though older, was not so good a swim-
mer. Calling to him with all his might, to make his voice
heard above the roar of the rapids, he at last gained his
attention, and encouraged him to try to reach the ledge
of rocks, where he would assist him to climb up ; and the
almost impossible feat was really accomplished by their
united efforts. This done, young Applegate sank again
into momentary unconsciousness, while poor exhausted
Nature recruited her forces.
But, although they were saved from immediate destruc-
tion, death still stared them in the face. That side of the
river on which they had found lodgment, was bounded
by precipitous mountains, coming directly down to the
water. They could neither ascend nor skirt along them,
for foot-hold there was none. On the other side was level
ground, but to reach it they must pass through the rapids
— an alternative that looked like an assurance of destruc-
tion.
In this extremity, it was the boy who resolved to risk
his life to save it. Seeing that a broken ledge of rock
extended nearly across the river from a point within his
reach, but only coming to the surface here and there, and
of course very slippery, he nevertheless determined to at-
tempt to cross on foot, amidst the roaring rapids. Starting
alone to make the experiment, he actually made the cross-
ing in safety, amid the thundering roar and dizzying rush
of waters — not only made it once, but returned -to assure
his companion of its practicability. The young man, how-
ever, had not the courage to undertake it, until he had
repeatedly been urged to do so, and at last only by being
pursuaded to go before, while his younger comrade fol-
v' -. ):
298
TRIALS OP THE NEW COLONISTS.
:l .'„J
lowed after, not to lose sight of him, (for it was impos-
sible to turn around,) and directed him where to place
his steps. In this manner that which appears incredible
was accomplished, and the two arrived in safety on the
opposite side, where they were ultimately discovered by
their distressed relatives, who had believed them to be
lost Such was the battle which young Applegate had
with the rocks, that the flesh was torn from the palms of
his hands, and his whole body bruised and lacerated.
So it was with sorrow, after all, that the immigrants
arrived in the valley. Nor were their trials over when
they had arrived. The worst feature about this long and
exhausting journey was, that it could not be accomplished
so as to allow time for recruiting the strength of the trav-
elers, and providing them with shelter before the rainy
season set in. Either the new arrivals must camp out in
the weather until a log house was thrown up, or they
must, if they were invited, crowd into the small cabins
of the settlers until there was scarce standing room, and
thus live for months in an atmosphere which would have
bred pestilence in any other less healthful climate.
Not only was the question of domiciles a trying one,
but that of food still more so. Some, who had families
of boys to help in the rough labor of building, soon be-
came settled in houses of their own, more or less com-
fortable ; nor was anything very commodious required
for the frontiers-men from Missouri ; but in the matter of
something to eat, the more boys there were in the family,
the more hopeless the situation. They had scarcely man-
aged to bring with them provisions iur their summer's
journey — it was not possible to bring more. In the
colony was food, but. they had no money — few of them
had much, at least ; they had not goods to exchange ;
labor was not in demand : in short, the first winter in
THE GENEROUS SAVAGE.
299
Oregon was, to nearly all the new colonists, a time of
trial, if not of actual suffering. Many families now occu-
pying positions of eminence on the Pacific coast, knew
what it was, in those early days, to feel the pangs of
hunger, and to want for a sufficient covering for their
nakedness.
Two anecdotes of this kind come to the writer's mem-
ory, as related Oy the parties themselves: the Indians,
who are everywhere a begging race, were in the habit of
visiting the houses of the settlers and demanding food.
On one occasion, one of them came to the house of a now
prominent citizen of Oregon, as usual petitioning for some-
thing to eat. The lady of the house, and mother of sev-
eral young children, replied that she had nothing to give.
Not liking to believe her, the Indian persisted in his de-
mand, when the lady pointed to her little children and
said, " Go away ; I have nothing — not even for those."
The savage turned on his heel and strode quickly away,
as the lady thought, offended. In a short time he reap-
peared with a sack of dried venison, which he laid at her
feet. " Take that," he said, " and give the tenas tilUcum
(little children) something to eat." From that day, as
long as he lived, that humane savage was a " friend of the
family.
The other anecdote concerns a gentleman who was
chief justice of Oregon under, the provisional govern-
ment, afterwards governor of California, and at present a
banker in San Francisco. He lived, at the time spoken
of, on the Tualatin Plains, and was a neighbor of Joe
Meek. Not having a house to go into at first, he was per-
mitted to settle his family in the district school-house,
with the understanding that on c rtain days of the month
lie was to allow religious services to be held in the build-
ing. In this he assented. Meeting day came, and the
m^TT
800
THE BARE-FOOTED LAWYER.
■| i!
family put on their best apparel to make themselves tidy-
in the eyes of their neighbors. Only one difficulty was
hard to get over : Mr. had only one shoe, the other
foot was bare. But he considered the matter for some
time, and then resolved that he might take a sheltered
position behind the teacher's desk, where his deficiency
would be hidden, and when the house filled up, as it
would do very rapidly, he could not be expected to stir
for want of space. However, that happened to the ambi-
tious young lawyer which often does happen to the " best
laid schemes of mice and men" — his went "all aglee.'*
In the midst of the services, the speaker needed a cup of
water, and requested Mr. to furnish it. There was
no refusing so reasonable a request. Out before all the
congregation, walked the abashed and blushing pioneer^
•with his ill-matched feet exposed to view. This mortify-
ing exposure was not without an agreeable result ; for
next day he received a present of a pair of moccasins,
and was enabled thereafter to appear with feet that bore
a brotherly resemblance to each other.
About this time, the same gentleman, who was, aa has
been said, a neighbor of Meek's, was going to Wallamet
Falls with a wagon, and Meek was going along. " Take
something to eat," said he to Meek, " for I have nothing;"
and Meek promised that he would.
Accordingly when it came time to camp for the night,
Meek was requested to produce his lunch basket Going
to the wagon, Meek unfolded an immense pumpkin, and
brought it to the fire.
" What !" exclaimed Mr. , " is that all we have for
supper ?"
" Roast pumpkin is not so bad," said Meek, laughing
back at him ; " I've had worse fare in the mountains.
It's buffalo tongue compared to ants or moccasin soles."
SHOPPING UNDER DIFFICULTIES.
301
And so with much merriment they proceeded to cut up
their pumpkin and roast it, finding it as Meek had said —
" not so bad " when there was no better.
These anecdotes illustrate what a volume could only do
scribe — the perils and privations endured by the colonists
in Oregon. If we add that there were only two flouring
mills in the Wallamet Valley, and these two not conven-
ient for most of the settlers, both belonging to the mis-
sion, and that to get a few bushels of wheat ground in-
volved the taking of a journey of from four to six days,,
for many, and that, too, over half-broken roads, destitute
of bridges, it will ' be seen how difficult it was to obtain
the commonest comforts of life. As for such luxuries as
groceries and clothing, they had to wait for better times.
Lucky was the man who, " by hook or by crook," got
hold of an order on the Hudson's Bay Company, the
Methodist Mission, or the Milling Company at the Falls.
Were he thus fortunate, he had much ado to decide how
to make it go farthest, and obtain the most. Not far
would it go, at the best, for fifty per cent, profit on all
sales was what was demanded and obtained. Perhaps the
holder of a ten dollar draft made out his list of necessa-
ries, and presented himself at the store, - -r.-cting to get
them. He wanted some unbleached cotton, to be dyed to
make dresses for the children ; he would buy a pair of
calf-skin shoes if he could afford them ; and — yes — he
would indulge in the luxury of a little — a very little —
sugar, just for that once !
Arrived at the store after a long, jolting journey, in
the farpi wagon which had crossed the continent the year
before, he makes his inquiries : " Cotton goods ?" " No ;
just out" "Shoes?" "Got one pair, rather small —
wouldn't fit you." " What have you got in the way of
goods ?" " Got a lot of silk handkerchiefs and twelve
802
EDUCATION AND LITERARY SOCIETIES.
dozen straw hats." "Any pins?" "No; a few knitting
ueedles." "Any yarn?" "Yes, there's a pretty good
lot of yarn , but don't you want some sugar ? the last
ship that was in lefp a quantity of sugar." So the holder
of the draft exchanges it for some yarn and a few nails,
-and takes the balance in sugar . fairly compelled to be
luxurious in one article, for the reason that others were
not to be had till some other ship came in.
No mails reached the colony, and no letters left it, ex-
cept such as were carried by private band, or were sent
once a year in the Hudson's Bay Co ny's express to
Canada, and thence to the States. I j^apers ai'rived
in the same manner, or by vessel from the Sandwich
Islands. Notwithstanding, all these drawbacks, education
was encouraged even from the very beginning ; a library
was started, and literary societies formed, and this all the
more, perhaps, that the colony was so isolated and depend-
ent on itself for intellectual pleasures.
The spring of 1844 saw the colony in a state of some ex-
citement on account of an attempt to introduce the manu-
facture of ardent spirits. This dangerous article had al-
ways been carefully excluded from the country, first by
the Hudson's Bay Company, and secondly by the Meth-
odist Mission ; and since the time when a Mr. Young
had beCn induced to relinquish its manufacture, no seri-
ous effort had been made to introduce it.
It does not appear from the Oregon archives, that any
law against its manufacture existed at that time : it had
probably been overlooked in the proceedings of the leg-
islative committee of the previous summer ; neither was
there yet any executive head to the Provisional Govern-
ment, the election not having taken place. In this di-
lemma the people found themselves in the month of Feb-
■ iiji.ii!.'
A DILEMMA — MEEK UESTROYS THE DISTILLERY.
803
ruary, when one James Conner had been discovered to be
erecting a distillery at the Falls of the Wallamet.
It happened, however, that an occasion for the exer-
cise of executive power had occurred before the election
of the executive committee, and now what was to be
(lone ? It was a case too, which required absolute power,
for there was no law on the subject of distilleries. After
some deliberation it was decided to allow the Indian agent
temporary power, and several letters were addressed to
him, informing him of the cal. unity which threatened the
community at the Falls. " Now, we believe that if there
is anything which calls your attention in your official ca-
pacity, or anything in which you would be most cordially
supported by the good sense and prompt action of the
better part of community, it is the present case. We do
not wish to dictate, but we hope for the best, begging
pardon for intrusions." So read the closing paragraph
of one of the letters.
Perhaps this humble petition touched the Doctor's heart ;
perhaps he .saw in the circumstance a possible means of
acquiring influence ; at all events he hastened to the Falls,
a distance of fifty miles, and entered at once upon the dis-
charge of the executive duties thus thrust upon him in
the hour of danger. Calling upon Meek, who had entered
upon his duties as sherifi' the previous summer, he gave
him his orders. Writ in hand. Meek proceeded to the
distillery, frightened the poor sinner into quiet submission
with a display of his mountain manners ; made a bugle of
the worm, and blew it, to announce to the Doctor his com-
plete success ; after which he tumbled the distillery appa-
ratus into the river, and retired. Connor was put under
three hundred dollar bonds, and so the case ended.
But there were other occasions on which the Doctor's
20
804 ANECDOTE OF DR. WHITE AND MADAM COOPER.
authoi Ity was put in requisition. It happened that a ves-
sel from Australia had been in the river, and left one Mad-
am Cooper, who was said to have brought with her a bar-
rel of whiskv. Her cabin stood on the east bank of the
Wallamet, opposite the present city ot Portland. Not
thinking it necessary to send the sheriff to deal with a
woman, the Doctor went in person, accompanied by a
couple of men. Entering the cabin the Doctor reinarked
blandly, " you have a barrel of whisky, I believe."
Not knowing but her visitor's intention was lO purchase,
and not having previously resided in a strictly temperance
community, Madam Cooper replied frankly that she had,
and pointed to the barrel in question.
The Doctor then stepped forward, and placing his foot
on it, said: "In the name of the United btate'j, I lery
execution on it!"
At this unexpected declaration, the English woman
stared wildly one moment, then recovering herself quickly,
seized the poker trom the chimney corner, a 1 raising it
over the Doctor's head, exclaimed — "In the n>.,nie of
Great Britain, Ireland, and Scotland, I levy execution on
you!"
But when the stick descended, the Doctor v/as not there.
He had backed out at the cabin door; nor did he after-
wards attempt to interfere with a subject of the crown of
Great Britain
On the following day, however, the story having got
afloat at the Falls, Meek and a young man highly esteem-
ed at the mission, by the name of Le Breton, set out to
pay their respects to Madam Cooper. Upon entering the
cabin, the two callers cast their eyes about until they
rested en the whisky barrel.
''Have you come to levy on my whisky?" inquired the
now suspicious Madam.
^ .y
H COiC
L
BR.
A LEVY ON WHISKY.
305
;hat a ves-
; one Mad-
her a bar-
Liik of the
md. Not
eal with a
Died by a
remarked
e."
purchase,
iinperance
t she had,
ig his foot
yj, I lery
h woman
f quickly,
raising it
n>.,me of
cutiou on
not there,
he after-
crown of
.ving got
Y esteem-
set out to
ering the
ntii they
" Yes," said Meek, " I have come to levy on it ; but as
I am not quite so high in authority as Doctor White, I
don't intend to levy on the whole of it at once. I think
about a quart of it will do me."
Comprehending by the twinkle in Meek's eye that she
had now a customer more to her mind, Madam Cooper
made haste tc set before her visitors a bottle and tin cup,
upon which invitation they proceded to levy frequently
upon the contents of the bottle ; and we fear that the
length of time spent there, and the amount of whisky
drank must have strongly reminded Meek of past rendez-
vous times in the mountains ; nor can we doubt that he
entertained Le Breton and Madam Cooper with many rem-
iniscences of those times. However that may be, this
was not the last visit of Meek to Madam Cooper's, nor his
last levy on her whisky.
Shortly after his election as sheriff he had been called
upon to serve a writ upon a desperate character, for an
attempt to kill. Many persons, however, fearing the re-
sult of trying to enforce the law upon desperadoes, in the
then uefenceless condition of the colony, advised him to
wait for the immigration to co^^^e in before attempting the
arrest. But Meek preferred to uo his duty then, and went
with the writ to arrest him The man resisted, making
an attack on the sheriff with a carpenter's axe ; but Meek
coolly presented a pistol, assuring the culprit of the use-
lessness of such demonstrations, and soon brought him to
terms of compliance. Such coolness, united with ^ fine
physique, and a mountain-man's reputation for ecklpss
courage, made it very desirable that Meek should con-
tinue to hold the office of sheriff during that stage of the
colony's development.
prr
I
1:
CHAPTER XXVII.
1844. As has before been mentioned, the Indians of
the "Wallamet valley were by no means so formidable as
those of the upper country : yet considering their num-
bers and the condition of the settlers, they were quite for-
midable enough to occasion considerable alarm when any
one of them, or any number of them betrayed the savage
passions by which they were temporarily overcome. Con-
siderable excitement had prevailed among the more scat-
tered settlers, ever since the reports of the disaffection
among the up-country tribes had reached them ; and Dr.
White had been importuned to throw up a strong fortifi-
cation in the most central part of the colony, and to pro
cure arms for their defence, at the expense of the United
States.
This excitement had somewhat subsided when an event
occurred which for a time renewed it : a house was plun-
dered and some horses stolen from the neighborhood of
the Falls. An Indian from the Dalles, named Cockstock
was at the bottom of the mischief, and had been commit-
ting or instigating others to commit depredations upon the
Bottlers, for a year previous, because he had been, as he
fancied, badly treated in a matter between himself and a
negro in the colony, in which the latter had taken an un-
fair advantage of him in a bargain.
To crown his injuries Dr. White had caused a relative
of his to be flogged by the Dalles chief, for entering the
adiaiiS of
idable as
leir num-
quite for-
w^hen any
le savage
le. Con-
Qore scat-
isaffection
and Dr.
ig fortifi-
to pro
le United
an event
fvas plun-
hood of
ockstockj
commit-
upon the
n, as he
If and a
n an un-
relative
ring the
i
INDIAN REVENGE — RAID OF THE KLAMATHS.
307
house of the Methodist missionary at that place, and tying
him, with the purpose of flogging him. (It was a poor
law, he thought, that would not work both ways.)
In revenge for this insult Cockstock came to the Doc-
tor's house in the Wallamet, threatening to shoot him at
sight, but not finding him at home, contented himself
for that time, by smashing all the windows in the dwell-
ing and ofl&ce of the Doctor, and nearly frightening to
death a young man on the premises.
When on the Doctor's return in the evening, the extent
of the outrage became known, a party set out in pursuit
of Cockstock and his band, but failed to overtake them,
and the settlers remained in ignorance concerning the
identity of the marauders. About a month later, how-
ever, a party of Klamath and Molalla Indians from the
south of Oregon, numbering fifteen, came riding into the
settlement, armed and painted in true Indian war-style.
They made their way to the lodge of a Calapooya chief
in the neighborhood — the Calapooyas being the Indians
native to the valley. Dr. White fearing these mischiev-
ous visitors might infect the mind of the Calapooya chief,
sent a message to him, to bring his friends to call upon
him in the morning, as he had something good to say to
them.
This they did, when Dr. White explained the laws of the
Nez Perces to them, and told them how much it would be
to their advantage to adopt such laws. He gave the Cal-
apooya chief a fine fat ox to feast his friends with, well
knowing that an Indian's humor depends much on the
state of his stomach, whether shrunken or distended. Af-
ter the feast there was some more talk about the laws, in
the midst of which the Indian Cockstock made his appear-
ance, armed, and sullen in his demeanor. But as Dr.
White did not know him for the perpetrator of the out-
»f i ': . •: a:'1
808
MASSACRE OF INDIANS.
s ■ n
■1
^ ;;j i i ,
.-1
.1
■1«
1 1 ■ ^ i
V
Mi
i\
rage on his premises, he took no notice of him more than
of the others. The Molallas and Klamaths finally agreed to
receive the laws ; departing in high good humor, singing
and shouting. So little may one know of the savage
heart from the savage professions! Some of these In-
dians were boiling over with secret wrath at the weakness
of their brethren in consenting to laws of the Agent's dic-
tation ; and while they were crossing a stream, fell upon
and massacred them without mercy, Oockstock taking an
active part in the murder.
The whites were naturally much excited by the villianons
and horrible affray, and were for taking and hanging the
murderers. The Agent, however, was more cautious, and
learning that there had been feuds among these Indians
long unsettled, decided not to interfere.
In February, 1844, fresh outrages on settlers having
been committed so that some were leaving their claims
and coming to stop at the Falls through fear. Dr. White
was petitioned to take the case in hand. He accordingly
raised a party of ten men, who had nearly all suffered
some loss or outrage at Cockstock's hands, and set out in
search of him, but did not succeed in finding him. His
next step was to offer a reward of a hundred dollars for
his arrest, meaning to send hira to the upper country to
be tried and punished by the Cayuses and Nez Perces, the
Doctor prudently desiring to have them bear the odium,
and suffer the punishment, should any follow, of executing
justice on the Indian desperado. Not so had the fates or-
dained.
About a week after the reward was offered, Cockstock
came riding into the settlement at the Falls, at mid-day,
accompanied by five other Indians, all well armed, and
frightfully painted. Going from house to house on their
horses, they exhibited their pistols, and by look and ges-
. -*VFRAY AT THE FALLS DEATH OF COCKSTOCK. 309
ture seemed to defy the settlers, who, however, kept quiet
through prudential motives. Not succeeding in provok-
ing the whites to commence the fray, Cockstock finally re-
tired to an Indian village on the other side of the river,
where he labored to get up an insurrection, and procure
the burning of the settlement houses.
Meantime the people at the Falls were thoroughly
alarmed, and bent upon the capture of this desperate sav-
age. When, after an absence of a few hours, they saw
him recrossing the river with his party, a crowd of per-
sons ran down to the landing, some with offers of large
reward to any person who would attempt to take him,
while others, more courageous, were determined upon
earning it. No definite plan of capture or concert of ac-
tion was decided on, but all was confusion and doubt. In
this fra mind a collision was sure to take place ; both
the whii-s and Indians firing at the moment of landing.
Mr. LeBreton, the young man mentioned in the previous
chapter, after firing ineffectually, rushed unarmed upon
Cockstock, whose pistol was also empty, but who still had
his knife. In the struggle t ;th fell to the ground, when
a mulatto man, who had wrongs of his own to avenge, ran
up and struck Cockstock a blow on the head with the butt
of his gun which dispatched him at once.
Thus the colony was rid of a scourge, yet not without
loss which counterbalanced the gain. Young LeBreton
besides having his arm shattered by a ball, was wounded
by a poisoned arrow, which occasioned his death; and
Mr. Rogers, another esteemed citizen, died from the same
cause; while a third was seriously injured by a slight
wound from a poisoned arrow. As for the five friends of
Cockstock, they escaped to the bluffs overlooking the set-
tlement, and commenced firing dowu upon the people.
But fire-arms were mustered sufficient to dislodge them,
HU 1: ..
310
SETTLEMENT OF THE DIFFICULTY.
and thus the aff'air ended ; except that the Agent had
some trouble to settle it with the Dalles Indians, who came
down in a body to demand payment for the loss of their
brother. After much talk and explanation, a present to
the widow of the dead Indian was made to smooth over
the difficulty.
Meek, who at the time of the collision was rafting tim-
ber for Dr. McLaughlin's mill at the Falls, as might have
been expected was appealed to in the melee by citizens
who knew less about Indian fighting.
A prominent citizen and merchant, who probably sel-
dom spoke of him as Mr. Meek, came running to him in
great affright: — "Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek! — I
want to send my wife down to Vancouver. Can you as-
sist me ? Do you think the Indians will take the town ?"
" It 'pears like half-a-dozen Injuns might do it," retorted
Meek, going on with his work.
"What do you think we had better do, Mr. Meek?—
"What do you advise ?"
*'I think yoiiHd better run."
In all difficulties between the Indians and settlers, Meek
usually refrained from taking sides — especially from taking
sides against the Indians. For Indian slayer as he had
once been when a ranger of the mountains, he had too
much compassion for the poor wretches in the Wallamet
Valley, as well as too much knowledge of the savage na-
ture, to like to make unnecessary war upon them. Had
he been sent to take Cockstock, very probably he would
have done it with little uproar ; for he had sufficient influ-
ence among the Calapooyas to have enlisted them in the
undertaking. But this was the Agent's business and he
let him manage it ; for Meek and the Doctor were not in
love with one another ; one was solemnly audacious, the
other mischievously so. Of the latter sort of audacity,
M.-\%
i\: ,!:
SOLEMN AUDACITY — AMBITIOUS DESIGNS.
811
here is an example. Meek wanted a horse to ride out to
the Plains where his family were, and not knowing how
else to obtain it, helped himself to one belonging to Dr.
White ; which presumption greatly incensed the Doctor,
and caused him to threaten various punishments, hanging
among the rest. But the Indians overhearing him replied^
" Wake nika cumtux — You dare not. — You no put rope
round Meek's neck. He tyee (chief) — no hang him."
Upon which the Doctor thought better of it, and having
vented his solemn audacity, received smiling audacity with
apparent good humor when he came to restore the bor-
rowed horse..
As our friend Meek was sure to be found wherever there
was anything novel or exciting transpiring, so he was sure
to fall in with visitors of distinguished character, and as
ready to answer their questions as they were to ask them.
The conversation chanced one day to run upon the changes
that had taken place in the country since the earliest set-
tlement by the Americans, and Meek, who felt an honest
pride in them, was expatiating at some length, to the ill-
concealed amusement of two young officers, who probably
saw nothing to admire in the rude improvements of the
Oregon pioneers.
"Mr. Meek," said one of them, "if you have been so
long in the country and have witnessed such wonderful
transformations, doubtless you may have observed equally
great ones in nature ; in the rivers and mountains, for in-
stance ?"
Meek gave a lightning glance at the speaker who had so
mistaken his respondent :
" I reckon I have," said he slowly. Then waving his
hand gracefblly toward the majestic Mt. Hood, towering
thousands of feet above the summit of the Cascade range.
IfffFf
i
III
!ii
H'
K V ; ' 1
S12
PROMISING CONDITION OF THE COLONY.
and white with everlasting snows: " When /came to this
country, Mount Hood was a hole in the ground /"
It is hardly necessary to say that the conversation ter-
minated abruptly, amid the universal cachinations of the
bystanders.
Notwithstanding the slighting views of Her British Ma-
jesty's naval officers, the young colony was making rapid
strides. The population had been increased nearly eight
hundred by the immigration of 1844, so that now it num-
bered nearly two thousand. Grain had been raised in
considerable quantities, cattle and hogs had multipUed,
and the farmers were in the best of spirits. Even our hero,
who hated farm labor, began to entertain faith in the re-
sources of his land claim to make him rich.
Such was the promising condition of the colony in the
summer of 1845. Much of the real prosperity of the set-
tlers was due to the determination of the majority to ex-
clude ardent spirits and all intoxicating drinks from the
country. So well had they succeeded that a gentleman
writing of the colony at that time, says: "I attended the
last term of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and
I found great respect shown to judicial authority every-
where ; nor did I see a single drunken juryman, nor wit-
■nesa^ nor spectator. So much industry, good order, and
sobriety I have never seen in any community."
While this was i\ ^ rule, there were exceptions to it.
During the spring term of the Circuit tloart, • udge Ne-
smith being on the bench, a prisoner was an-ai^ned before
him for " assault with intent to kill." The witness for the
prosecution was called, and was proceeding to give evi-
dence, when, at some statement of his, the prisoner vocifer-
ated that he was a "d d liar," and quickly stripping
off his coat demanded a chance to fight it out with the
witness.
ANECDOTE OP JUDGE NE8MITH
313
Judge Nesmith called for the interference of Meek,
who had been made marshal, but just at that moment he
was not to be found. Coming into the room a moment
later, Meek saw the Judge down from his bench, holding
the prisoner by the collar.
" You can imagine," says Meek, " the bustle in court.
But the Judge had the best of it. He fined the rascal,
and made him pay it on the spot ; while I just stood back
to see his honor handle him. That was fun for me."
The autumn of 1845 was marked less by striking events
than by the energy which the people exhibited in improv-
ing the colony by laying out roads and town-sites. Al-
ready quite a number of towns were located, in which
the various branches of business were beginning to de-
velop themselves. Oregon City was the most populous
and important, but Salem, Champoeg, and Portland were
known as towns, and other settlements were growing up
on the Tualatin Plains and to the south of them, in the
fertile valleys of the numerous tributaries to the Wal-
lamet.
Portland was settled in this year, and received its name
from the game of " heads you lose, tails I win," by which
its joint owners agreed to determine it, One of them
being a Maine man, was for giving it the name which it
now bears , the other partner being in favor of Boston,
because he T*as a Massachusetts man. It was, therefore,
agreed between them that a copper cent should be tossed
to decide the question of the christening, which being
done, heads and Portland won.
The early days of that city were not always safe and
pleasant any more than those of its older rivals ; and the
few inhabitants frequently were much annoyed by the
raids they were subject to frOm the now thoroughly vag-
abondized Indians. On one occasion, while yet the pop-
ulation was small, they were very much annoyed by the
|k||im|U||||
|!p'lllfl|il|ii
3U
AN INDUN CAROUSAL AT PORTLAND.
.£ r
visit of eight or ten lodges of Indians," who had some-
where obtained liquor enough to get drunk on, and were
enjoying a debauch in that spirit of total abandon which
distinguishes the Indian carousal.
Their performances at length alarmed the people, yet
no one could be found who could put an er -i to them.
In this dilemma the Marshal came riding into town, splen-
didly mounted on a horse that would turn at the least
touch of the rein. The countenances of the anxious
Portlanders brightened. One of t'he town proprietors
eagerly besought him to "settle those Indians." "Very
well," answered Meek ; " I reckon it won't take me long."
Mounting his horse, after first securing a rawhide "ope, he
" charged" the Indian lodges, rope in hand, lu^ mg it on
with force, the bare shoulders of the Indiana oifering
good hack-grounds for the pictures which he was rapidly
executing.
Not one made any resistance, for they had a wholesome
fear of tyee Meek. In twenty minutes not an Indian, man
or woman, was left in Portland. Some jumped into the
river and swam to the opposite side, and some fled to the
thick woods and hid themselves. The next morning,
early, the women cautiously returned and carried away
their property, but the men avoided being seen again by
the marshal who punished drunkenness so severely.
Reader's query. Was it Meek or the Marshal who so
strongly disapproved of spreeing ?
Arts. It was the Marshal.
The immigration to Oregon this year much exceeded
that of any previous year ; and there was the usual
amount of poverty, sickness, and suffering of every sort,
among the fresh arrivals. Indeed the larger the trains
the greater the amount of suffering generally ; since the
grass was more likely to be exhausted, and more hin-
THE )MMIGRATION OF 1845.
315
i\\m
dranccs of every kind were likely to occur. In any case,
a march of several months through an unsettled country
was sure to leave the traveler in a most forlorn and ex-
hausted condition every way.
This was the situation of thousands of people who
reached the Dalles in the autumn of 1845. Food was
very scarce among them, and the difficulties to encounter
before reaching the Wallamct just as great as those of the
two previous years. As usual the Hudson's Bay Company
came to the assistance of the immigrants, furnishing a pas-
sage down the river in their boats; the sick, and the
women and children being taken first.
Among the crowd of people encamped at the Dalles,
was a Mr. Rector, since well known in Oregon and Cali-
fornia. Like many others he was destitute of provisions ;
his supplies having given out. Neither had he any money.
In this extremity he did that which was very disagreeable
to him, as one of the "prejudiced" American citizens
who were instructed beforehand to hate and suspect the
Hudson's Bay Company — he applied to the company's
agent at the Dalles for some potatoes and flour, confessing
his present inability to pay, with much shame and reluc-
tance.
"Do not apologize, sir," said the agent kindly; " take
what you need. There is no occasion to starve while our
supplies hold out."
Mr. R. found his prejudices in danger of melting away
under such treatment ; and not liking to receive bounty a
second time, he resolved to undertake the crossing of the
Cascade mountains while the more feeble of the immi-
grants were being boated down the Columbia. A few
others who were in good health decided to accompany
him. They succeeded in getting their wagons forty miles
beyond the Dalles ; but there they could move no further.
WF
316
THE CASCADE KOUNTA.IN iiOAD-HUNTERS.
iki^
In tnis dilemma, after consultation, Mr. Rector and Mr.
Barlow agreed to go ahead and look out a wagon road.
Taking with them two days' provisions, they started on
in the direction of Oregon City. But they found road
hunting in the Cascade mountains an experience unlike
any they had ever had. Not only had they to contend
with the usual obbCacles of precipices, ravines, mountain
torrents, and weary r.tretches of ascent and descent ; but
they founu the forests standing so thickly that it would
have been impossible to have passed between the trees
with their wagons h':ud the ground been clear of fallen
timber and undergrowth. On the contrary thc.% latter
obstacles were the greatest of all. So thickly were the
- trunks of fallen trees crossed and recrossed everywhere,
and so dense +ho growth of bushes in amongst them, that
it was with difficulty they could force their way on fc>ot.
It soon becamo apparent to the road hunters, that two
days' rations would not suffice for what work they had
before them. At the first camp it waa agreed to livo
upon half rations the next day ; and to divide and subdi-
vide their food each day, only easing half of what was
left from the day befc re, so that there would always still
remain a morsel in case of dire extremity
But the "lil of getting through the woods and over the
mountains proved excessive ; and that, together with in-
sufficient food, h{»d in the course of two or three days
reduced the strength of Mr. Barlow so that it was \nth
grea. effijrt only that he could keep up with his j'-ounger
and more ronvist companion, stumbling and falling at
overy few steps, and frequently hurting himself considera-
bly.
So wolfish and cruel is the nature of men, under tr3ring
circumstances, that instead of feeling pity for his weaker
and less fortunate companion, Mr. Rector became impa-
THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN ROAD-HUNTERS,
3ir
tient, blaming him for causing delays, and often requiring
assistance.
To render their situation still more trying, rain began
to fall heavily, which with the cold air of the mountains,
soon beni^mbed their exhausted frames. Fearing that
should they go to sleep so cold and famished, they might
never be able to rise again, on the fourth or fifth evening
... V, ....-•... they resolved to
kindle a fire, if by
a n y means they
could do so. Drv
and broken wood
had been plenty
enough, but for the
rain, wh ich was
drenching every-
thing. Neither
matches nor flint
had they, however,
in any case. The
night was setting
in black with dark-
ness ; the wind
swayed the giant
firs over head, and
then they heard
the thunder of a
falling monarch of
the forest unpleas-
antly near. Search-
ing among the bush-
es, and under fallen timber for some dry leaves and sticks,
Mr. Rector took a bundle of them to the most sheltered
spot ho could find, and set himself to work to coax a spark
of fire out of two pieces of dry wood which he had split
THE KOAD-UUMKIIS,
i:!
318
THE Cascade mountain road-hunters.
for that purpose. It was a long and weary while before sue*
cess was attained, by vigorous rubbing together of the drv
wood, but it was attained at last ; and the stiffening limbs
of the road-hunters were warmed by a blazing camp-fire.
The following day, the food being now reduced to a
crumb for each, the explorers, weak and dejected, toiled
on in silence, Mr. Rector always in advance. On chancing
to look back at his companion he observed him to be
brushing away a tear. *' What now, old man ?" asked
Mr. R. with most unchristian harshness.
" What would you do with me, Rector, should I fall and
break a leg, or become in any way disabled?" inquired
Mr. Barlow, nervously.
"Do with you? I would eat youT growled Mr. Rec-
tor, stalking on again.
As no more was said for some time, Mr. R.'s conscience
rather misgave him that he treated his friend unfeelingly;
then he stole a look back at him, and beheld the wan face
bathed in tears.
"Come, come, Barlow," said he more kindly, "don't
take affairs so much to heart. You will not break a leg,
and I should not eat you if you did, for you have'nt any
flesh on you to eat."
" Nevertheless, Rector, I want you to promise me that
in case I should fall and disable myself, so that I cannot
get on, you will not leave me here to die alone, but will
kill me with your axe instiad."
"Nonsense, Barlow; yoa are weak and nervous, but
you are not going to be disabled, nor eaten, nor killed.
Keep up man ; we shall . each Oregon City yet."
So, onward, but ever more slowly and painfully, toiled
again the pioneers, the wonder being that Mr. Barlow's
fears were not realized, for the clambering and descend-
ing gave hira many a tumble, the tumbles becoming more
frequent as his strength declined.
A REASON FOR PATRIOTISM.
319
Towards evening of this day as they came to the pre-
cipitous bank of a mountain stream which was flowing in
the direction they wished to go, suddenly there came to
their ears a sound of more than celestial melody ; the
tinkling of bells, lowing of cattle, the voice of men hal-
looing to the herds. They had struck the cattle trail,
which they had first diverged from in the hope of finding
a road passable to wagons. In the overwhelming revul-
sion of feeling which seized them, neither were able for
some moments to command their voices to call for assist-
aLoe. That night they camped with thi herdsmen, and
supped in such plenty as an immigrant camp afforded.
Such were the sufferings of two individuals, out of a
great crowd of sufferers ; some afflicted in one way and
some in another. That people who endured so much to
reach their El Dorado should be the most locally patriotic
people in the world, is not singular. Mr. Barlow lived to
construct a wagon road over the Cascades for the use of
subsequent immigrations.
I
SI
11
CHAPTER XXVIII.
M
I
Early in 1846, Meek resigned his oflBce of marshal of
the colony, owing to the difl&culty of collecting taxes; for
in a thinly inhabited country, where wheat was a legal
tender, at sixty cents per buslv 1, it was rather a burden-
some occupation to collect, in so ponderous a currency;
and one in which the collector required a granary more
than a pocket-book. Besides, Meek had out-grown the
marshalship, and aspired to become a legislator at the next
June election.
He had always discharged his duty with promptitude
and rectitude while sheriff; and to his known courage
might be attributed, in many instances, the ready compli-
ance with law which was remarkable in so new and pecu-
liar an organization as that of the Oregon colony. The
people had desired not to be taxed, at first ; and for a
year or more the goverment was sustained by a fund
raised by subscription. When at last it was deemed best
to make collections by law, the Canadians objected to taxa-
tion to support an American government, while they were
still subjects of Great Britain ; but ultimately yielded the
point, by the advice of Dr. McLaughlin.
But it was not always the Canadians who objected to
being taxed, as the following anecdote will show. Dr.
McLaughlin was one day seated in his office, in conversa-
tion with some of his American friends, when the tall form
of the sheriff darkened the doorway.
"I have come to tax you, Doctor," said Meek with his
^i
THE BORROWED STEER.
321
blandest manner, and with a merry twinkle, half sup-
pressed, in his black eyes.
"To tax me, Mr. Jo. I was not aware — I really was
not aware — I believed I had paid my tax, Mr. Jo,"
stammered the Doctor, somewhat annoyed at the prospect
of some fresh u ..aid.
" Thar is an old ox out in my neighborhood. Doctor,
and he is said to belong, to you. Thar is a tax of twenty-
five cents on him."
"I do not understand you, Mr. Jo. I have no cattle out
in your neighborhood."
"I couldn't say how that may be. Doctor. All I do
know about it. is just this. I went to old G — 's to collect
the tax on his stock — and he's got a powerful lot cf cat-
tle,— and while we war a countin 'em over, he left out
that old ox and said it belonged to you."
"Oh, oh, I see, Mr. Jo: yes, yes, I see! So it was
Mr. G — ," cried the Doctor, getting very red in the face.
" I do remember now, since you bring it to my mind, that
I lent Mr. G — that steer six years ago ! Here are the
twenty-five cents, Mr. Jo."
The sheriff took his money, and went away laughing;
while the Doctor's American friends looked quite as much
annoyed as the Doctor himself, over the meanness of some
of their countrymen.
The year of 1846 was one of the most exciting in the
political history of Oregon. President Polk had at last
given the notice required by the Joint occupation treaty,
that the Oregon boundary question must be settled.
Agreeably to the promise which Dr. McLaiighlin had
received from the British Admiral, H. B. M. Sloop of war
Modeste had arrived in the Columbia River in the month
of October, !" 845, and had wintered there. Much as the
■■til
322
LOSS OF THE SHARK.
Doctor had wished for protection from possible outbreaks,
he yet felt that the presence of a British man-of-war in
the Columbia, and another one in Puget Sound, was offen-
sive to the colonists. He set himself to cover up as care-
fully as possible the disagreeable features of the British
lion, by endeavoring to establish social intercourse between
the officers of the Modeste and the ladies and gentlemen
of the colony, and his endeavors were productive of a
partial success.
During the summer, however, the United States Schooner
' Shark appeared in the Columbia, thus restoring the balance
of power, for the relief of national jealousy. After re-
maining for some weeks, the Shark took her departure,
but was wrecked on the bar at the mouth of the river,
according to a prophecy of Meek's, who had a grudge
against her commander, Lieut. Howison, for spoiling the
sport he was having in company with one of her officers,
while Howison was absent at the Cascades.
It appears ohat Lieut. Schenck was hospitably inclined,
and that on receiving a visit from the hero of many bear-
fights, who proved to be congenial on the subject of good
liquors, he treated both Meek and himself so freely as to
render discretion a foreign power to either of them. Va-
ried and brilliant were the exploits performed by these
jolly companions during the continuance of the spree;
and still more brilliant were those they talked of perform-
ing, even the taking of the Modeste, which was lying a
little way off, in front of Vancouver. Fortunately for the
good of all concerned, Schenck contented himself with
firing a salute as Meek was going over the side of the ship
on leaving. But for this misdemeanor he was put under
arrest by Howison, on his return from the Cascades, an in-
dignity which Meek resented for the prisoner, by assuriug
Lieut. Howison that he would lose his vessel before he
THE LONG SUSPENSE OVER.
323
jrot out of the river. And lose her he did. Schenck was
released after the vessel struck, escaping with the other
officers and crew by means of small boats. Very few arti-
cles were saved from the wreck, but among those few was
the stand of colors, which Lieut. Howison subsequently
presented to Gov. Abernethy for the colony.
There sinks the sun ; like cavalier of old,
Servant of crafty Spain,
He flaunts his banner, barred with blood and gold|
Wide o'er the western main ;
A tliousand spear heads glint beyond tlie trees
In columns bright and long,
"While kindling fancy hears upon the breeze
The swell of shout, and song.
And yet not here Spiun's gay, adventurous host
Dipped sword or planted cross ;
The treasures guarded by this rock-bound coast
Counted them gain nor loss.
The blue Columbia, sired by tlie eternal hills
And wedded with the sea.
O'er golden sands, tithes from a thousand rills,
Rolled in lone majesty —
Through deep ravine, through burning, barren plain,
Through wild and rocky strait.
Through forest dark, and mountain rent in twain
Toward the sunset gate;
While curious eyes, keen with the lust of gold,
Caught not the informing gleam,
These mighty breakers age on age have rolled
To meet this mighty stream.
Age after age these noble hills have kept.
The same majestic lines ;
Age afler age the horizon's edge been swept
By fringe of pointed pines.
Summers and Winters circling came and went,
Bringin«; no change of scene ;
Unresting!;, and unhasting, and unspent,
Dwelt Nature here serene 1
324 SUNSET AT THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.
: Till God's own time to plant of Freedom's seed,
In this selected soil ;
Denied forever unto blood and greed,
M ! But blest to honest toil.
There sinks the sun ; Gay cavaliur no more I
His banners trail the sea,
^ . And all his legions shining on the shore
;^ ^ * Fade into mystery.
The swelling tide laps on the shingly beach,
Like any stai'viug tliinjj ;
And hungry breakers, white with wrath, upreach,
: ' In a vain clamoring.
The shadows fall ; just level with mine eye
Sweet Hesper stands and shines,
And shines beneath an arc of golden sky,
Pinked round with pointed pines.
A noble scene ! all breadth, deep tone, and poweTi
,' Suggesting glorious themes ;
;• : ' Shaming the idler who would fill the hour
; . With unsubstantial dreams.
Be mine the dreams prophetic, shadowing forth
The things that yet shall be,
When through thi<5 gate the treasures of the Nortk
Flow outward to the seoi
n:--
CHAPTER XXIX.
The author of the following, " poem " was not either a
dull or an unobservant writer ; and we insert his verses as
a comical bit of natural history belonging peculiarly to
Oregon.
ADVENTURES OF A COLUMBIA SALMON. ,
What is yon object which attracts the eye
Of the observing traveler, who ascends
Columbia's waters, when the summer sky
In one soft tint, calm nature's clothing blends :
As glittering in the sunbeams down it floats
'Till some vile vulture on its carcase gloats ?
I
'Tis a poor salmon, which a short time past.
With thousands of her finny sisters came,
By instinct taught, to seek and find at last,
The place that gave her birth, there to remain
Till nature's offices had been discharged,
And fiy from out the ova had emerged.
Her Winter spent amongst the sheltered bays
Of the salt sea, where numerous fish of prey, ..
With appetite keen, the number of her days
Would soon have put an end to, could but they
Have caught her ; but as they could not, she,
Spring having come, resolved to quit the sea :
And moving with the shoal along the coast, at length
She reached the outlet of her native river.
There tarried for a little to recruit her strength,
So tried of late by cold and stormy weather ;
Sporting in playful gambols o'er the banks and sands,
Chasing the tiny fish frequenting there in bands.
w
f'
326 ADVENTURES OF A SALMON.
But ah, how littU; thoujrht this simple flsh,
The toils and perils she had yet to suffer,
The chance »he ran of serving as a dish
For huai^ry white men or for Indian's supper,—
Of enemies in which the stream abounded,
. When lo I she's by a fisher's net surrounded.
> Partly conscious of Iut approaching end,
She darts with meteoric swiftness to and fro,
Striking the frail nieslies, within which she's penned,
Which bid defiance to her stoutest blow :
To smaller compass by degrees the snare is drawn,
' Wl with a leap she clears it and is gone.
■ ( '■ Once more at large with her companions, now
Become more cautious from her late escape,
She keeps in deeper water and thinks how
Foolish she was to get in such a scrape ;
As mounting further up the stream, she vies
With other fish in catching gnats and fiies>
And as she on her way did thus enjoy
Life's fleeting moments, there arose a panic
Amongst the stragglers, who in haste deploy
Around their elder leaders, (piick as magic,
• While she unconscious of the untimely rout,
Was by a hungry otter singled out :
Vigorous was the chase, on the marked victim shot
' Through the clear water, while in close pursuit
Followed her amphibious foe, who scarce had got
Near enough to grasp her, when with turns acute.
And leaps and revolutions, she so tried the otter,
He gave up the hunt with merely having bit her.
Scarce had she recovered from her weakness, whea
An ancient eagle, of the bald-head kind.
Winging his dreary way to'rds some lone glen,
Where was her nest with four plump eaglets lined,
Espied the fish, which he judged quite a treat,
And just the morsel for his little ones to eat :
And sailing in spiral circles o'er the spot,
Where lay his prey, then hovering for a time.
To take his wary aim, he stooped and caught
His booty, which he carried to a lofty pine ;
Upon whose topmost branches, he first adjusted
His awkward load, ere with his claws he crushed it.
ADVENTURES OP A SALMON. 827
" 111 is the wind that blows no person good "—
So said the adago, and as luck would have it,
A huge grey <;aglc out in search of" food, ,
Who just had whet his hunger with a rabbit,
Attacked the other, and the pair together,
In deadly combat fell into the river.
' Our hiend of course made off, when she'd done falling
Some sixty yards, and well indeed she might ;
For ne'er, perhaps, a fish got such a mauling
Since Adam's time, or went up such a height
Into the air, and came down helter-skelter,
As did this poor production of a melter. " .
All these, with many other dangers, she surriTed,
Too manifold in this short space to m<'ntion ;
So we'll suppose her to have now ari . ved
Safe at llie Falh, without much more detention
Than one could look for, where so many liked her
Company, and so many Indians spiked her.
And here a mighty barrier stops her way :
The tranquil water, finding in its course *
Itself beset with rising rocks, which lay
As though they said, " retire ye to your source,"
Bursts with indignant fury from its liondage, now
' Rushes in foaming torrents to the chasm below. \
The persevering fish then at the foot arrives.
Laboring with redoubled vigor mid the surging tide,
And finding, by her strength, she vainly strives
To overcome the flood, though o'er and o'er she tried ;
Her tail takes in her mouth, and bending like a bow
lliat's to full compass drawn, aloft herself doth throw;
And spinning in the air, as would a silver wand
That's bended end to end and upwards cast.
Headlong she falls amid the showering waters, tmd
Gasping for breath, against the rocks is dashed :
Again, again she vaults, again she tries,
And in one last and feeble effort — dies.
There was, in Oregon City, a literary society called the
"Falls Association," some of whose effusions were occa-
Bionally sent to the Spectator^ and this may have been one
.S28
THE SOUTHERN ROUTE TO THE WALLAMBT.
of them. At all ovents, it is plain that with balls, the-
atres, literary societies, and polities, the colony was not
afflicted with dullness, in the winter of 1 846.
But the history of the immigration this year, afforded
perhaps, more material for talk than any one other sub-
ject. The condition in which the immigrants arrived waa
one of great distress. A new road into the valley had
been that season explored, at great labor and expense, by
a company ot gentlemen who had in view the aim to
lessen the perils usually encountered in descending the
Columbia. They believed that a better pass might be
discovered through the Cascade range to the south, than
that which had been found around the base of Mount
Hood, and one which should bring the immigrants in at
the upper end of the valley, thus saving them consid-
erable travel and loss of time at a season of the year
when the weather was apt to be unsettled.
With this design, a party had set out to explore the
Oascades to the south, quite early in the spring ; but fail-
ing in their undertaking, had returned. Another com-
pany was then immediately formed, headed by a promi-
nent member of society and the legislature. This com-
pany followed the old Hudson's Bay Company's trail,
crossing all those ranges of mountains perpendicular to
the coast, which form a triple wall between Oregon and
California, until they came out into the valley of the Hum-
boldt, whence they proceeded along a nearly level, but
chiefly barren country to Fort Hall, on the Snake River.
The route was found to be practicable, although there
was a scarcity of grass and water along a portion of it ;
but as the explorers had with great difficulty found out
and marked all the best camping grounds, and encoun-
tered first for themselves all the dangers of a hitherto un-
explored region, most of which they believed they had
TRAGIC FATE Ot" IMMIO RANTS.
329
overcome, they felt no hesitation in recommending the
new road to the emigrants whom they met at Fort Hall.
Being aware of the hardships which the immigrants of
tlie previous years had undergone on the Snake River
plains, at the crossing of Snake River, the John Day, and
Des Chutes Rivers, and the passage of the Columbia, the
travelers gladly accepted the tidings of a safer route to
the Wallamet. A portion of the immigration had already
gone on by the road to the Dalles ; the remainder turned
off by the southern route.
Of those who took the new route, a part were destined
for California. All, however, after passing through the
sage deserts, committed the error of stopping to recruit
their cattle and horses in the fresh green valleys among
the foot-hills of the mountains. It did not occur to
them that they were wasting precious time in this way ;
but to this indulgence was owing an incredible amount of
suffering. The California-bound travelers encountered
the season of snow on the Sierras, and such horrors are
recorded of their sufferings as it is seldom the task of ears
to hear or pen to record. Snow-bound, without food,
those who died of starvation were consumed by the liv-
ing ; even children were eaten by their once fond parents,
with an indifference horrible to think on : so does the
mind become degraded by groat physical sulTering.
The Oregon immigrants had not to cross the lofty Sier-
ras ; but they still found mountains before them which, in
the dry season, would have been formidable enough. In-
stead, however, of the dry weather continuing, very heavy
rains set in. The streams became swollen, the mountain
sides heavy and slippery with the wet earth. Where the
road led through canyons, men and women were some-
times forced to stem a torrent, breast high, and cold
enough to chill the life in their veins. The cattle gave
330
AN EXCITING WINTER.
■ii
%l
mm
out, tlie w-^ons broke down, provisions oecame exhausted
and a few persons perished, while all were in the direst
straits.
The first who got through into the valley sent relief to
those behind ; but it was weeks before the last of the
worn, weary, and now impoverished travelers escaped
from the horrors of .'he mountains in which they were so
hopelessly entangled, and where most of their worldly
goods were left to rot.
The Oregon legislature met as usual, to hold its winter
session, though the people hoped and expected it would
be for the last time under the Provisional Government.
There were only two "mountain-men" in the House, at
this session — Meek and Newell.
In the suspense under which they for the present re-
mained, there was nothing to do but to go oa in the path
of l^uty as they had heretofore done, keeping up their
present form of government until it was supplanted by a
better one. So passed the summer until the return of the
"Glorious Fourth," which, being the first national anni-
versary occuring since the news of the treaty had reached
the colony, was celebrated with proper enthusiasm.
It chanced that an American ship, the Brutus^ Capt
Adams, from Boston, was lying in the Wallamet, and that
a general invitation had been given to the celebrationists
to visit the ship during the day. A party of fifty or sixty,
including Meek and some of his mountain associates, had
made their calculations to go on board at the same time,
and were in fact already alongside ir boats, when Captfiin
Adams singled out a boat load of people belo..ging to the
mission clique, and inviting them to come on board, or-
dered all the others off.
This was an insult too great to be borne by mountain-
':■ 1
AN INDIGNITY RESENTED.
331
men, who resented it not only for themselves, but for the peo-
ple's party of Americans to which they naturally belonged.
Their blood was ur., and without stopping to deliberate,
Meek and Newell hurried off to fetch the twelve-pounder
that had a few hours before served to thunder forth the
rejoicings of a free people, but with which they now pur-
posed to proclaim their indignation as freeman heinously
insulted. The little twelve-pound cannon was loaded with
rock, and got into range with the oftendinc^ ship, and there
is little doubt that Capt. Adams would have suffered loss
at the hands of the incensed multitude, but for the timely
interference of Dr. McLaughlin. On being informed of
the warlike intentions of Meek and his associates, the good
Doctor came running to the rescue, his white hair flowing
back from his noble face with the hurry of his movements.
"Oh, oh, Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, you must not do this! in-
deed, you must not do this foolish thing ! Come now ;
come away. You will injure your country, Mr. Joe. How
can you expect that ships will come here, if they are fired
on? Come away, come away!"
And Meek, ever full of ^agishness, even in his wrath,
replied ;
" Doctor, it is not that f love the Brutus less, but my
dignity more."
"Oh, Shakespeare, Mr. Joe! But come with me ; come
with me."
And so the good Doctor, half in authority, half in kind-
ness, persuaded the resentful colonists to pass by the favor-
itism of the Boston captain.
Meek was reelected to the legislature this summer, and
swam out to a vessel lying down at the mouth of the
Wallamet, to gel liquor to treat his constituents; from
which circumstance it may be inferred that while Oregon
was remarkable for temperance, there were occasions on
IH
I
1:
m\
332 FAILURE OF THE TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT BILL.
..1
which conviviality was deemed justifiable by a portion of
her people.
Thus passed the summer. The autumn brought news
of a large emigration en route for the new territory ; but
it brought no news of good import from Cong ess. On
the contrary the bill providing for a territorial government
for Oregon had failed, because the Organic Laws of that
territory excluded slavery forever from the country. The
history of its failure is a part and parcel of the record of
the long hard struggle of the south to exteLi' ' iavery into
the United States' territories.
Justly dissatisfied, but not inconsolable, the colony, now
that hope was extinguished for another season, returned
to its own affairs. The immigration, vrhich had arrived
early this year, amounted to between four and five thou-
sand. An unfortunate affray between the immigrants and
the Indians at the Dalles, had frightened away from that
station the Rev. Father Waller ; and Dr. Whitman of the
Waiilatpu mission had purchased the station for the Pres-
byterian mission, and placed a nephew of his in charge.
Although, true to their original bad character, the Dalles
Indians had frequently committed theft upon the passing
emigration, this was the first difficulty resulting in loss
of life, which had taken place. This quarrel arose out of
some thefts committed by the Indians, and the unwise ad-
vice of Mr. Waller, in telling the immigrants to retaliate
by taking some of the Indian horses. An Indian can see
the justice of taking toll from every traveler passing
thrr>ugh his country ; but he cannot see the ju.^tice of be-
ing robbed in return ; and Mr. Waller had been long
enough among them to have known \hih
Finding that it must continue yet i little longer lo look
after its own government and welfare, the coloffj hadt
settled back into its wonted pursoitft. Tike legkhtHHi
FALLING OF THE THUNDERBOLT.
335
had convened for its winter session, and had hardly elected
its officers and read the usual message of the Governor,
before there came another, which fell upon their ears like
a thunderbolt. Gov. Abernethy had sent in the following
letter, written at Vancouver the day before :
Fort Vancouver, Dec. 7, 1847.
George Abernethy, Esq.;
Sir : — Having received intelligence, last night, by special express irono
Walla- Walla, of the destruction of the missionary Jiettlement at Waiilatpu, by
the Cayuse Indians of that place, we hasten to communicate the particulars of
that dreadful event, one of the most atrocious which darkens the annals of In-
dian crime.
Our lamented friend, Dr. Whitman, his amiable and accomplished lady, with
nine other persons, have fallen victims to the fury of these remorseless savages,
who appear to have been instigated to this appalling crime by a horrible sus-
picion which had taken possession of their superstitious minds, in consequence
of the number of deaths from dysentery and measles, that Dr. Whitman waa
silently working the destruction of their tribe by administering poisonous drugs.
under the semblance of salutary medicines.
With a goodness of heart and benevolence truly lis own. Dr. Whitman bad
been laboring i\\»'v»«»««(ly since the appearance of the measles and dyw>ntery
among his IndtAH conveits, to relieve their suiferiivnit ; and such hnii Imen the
rewai'd of his generous labors.
A copy of Mr. McBean's letter, Wwwlth transmitted, will give you all the
particulars known to us of this iudi^rn'rlbably painftjl event.
Mr. Ogden, with a »tr\N»^ partj, will leave this place as soon as |)ossible for
Walla- \\ alia, to endeavor to prtivent fhrther evil : and wo beg to suggest to
you the propriety of taking instant measures tbv the protection of the llev. Mr.
Spalding, who, for the sake of hl» family, ought to abandon the Clear water
mission without delay, and retire to a plitcti of safety, as he cannot remain at
that isolated station without imminent risk, iu the present excited and irritable
state of the Indian {Ktpulation.
1 have the houor to bo, tir, your most obedient servant,
JAMES DOUGLAS.
'if, ■'
II
CH'APTER XXX.
1842-7. Doubtless the read": Temembers the disquiet
felt and expressed by the Indians in the upper country in
the year 1842. For the time they had been quieted by
presents, by the advice of the Hudson's Bay Compauyj
and by flie Agent's promise that in good time the United
States would send them blankets, guns, ammunition, food
farming implements, and teachers to show them how lo
live like the whites.
In the meantime, five years having passed, these prom-
ises had not been kept. Five times a large number of
whites, with their children, their cattle, and wagons, had
passed through their country, and gone down into the
Wallamot Valley to settle. Now they had learned that
the United States claimed the Wallamet valley ; yet they
had never heard that the Indians of that country had re-
ceived any pay for it.
They had accepted the religion of tbe whites believing
it would do them good , but now they were doubtful.
Had they not accepted laws from the United States agent,
and had not their people been punished for acts which
their ancestors anc' themselves had always before commit-
ted at will? None of these innovations seemed lo do
them any good : they were disapy)ointed But the whites,
or Bostons, (meaning the Americans) were coming more
CAUSES OF THEIR DISQUIET.
885
and more every year, so that by-and-by there wouUl bo
all Bostons and no Indians.
Once the} had trusted in the words of the Americans ;
but now they knew how worthless were their promises.
The Americans had done them much harm. Years before
had not one of the missionai'ies suffered several of their
people, and the son of one of their chiefs, to be slain in
his company, yet himself «3scaped? Had not the son of
another chief, who had gone to California to buy cattle,
been killed by a party of Americans, for no fault of his
own? Their chief's son was killed, the cattle robbed from
his party, after having been paid for; and his friends
obliged to return poor and in grief.
To be sure. Dr. White had given them some drafts to
be used in obtaining cattle from the immigration, as a
compensation for their lof ses in California ; but they could
n'^t make them available ; and those who wanted cattle
had to go down to the Wallamet for them. In short,
could the Indians have thought of an American epithet to
apply to Americans, it would have been that expressive
word humbug. What they felt and what they thought,
was, that they had been cheated. They feared greater
frauds in the future, and they were secretly resolve<i not
to submit to them.
So far as regarded the missionaries. Dr. Whitman and
his associates, they were divided ; yet as so many looked
on the Doctor as an agent in promoting the settlement of
the country with whites, it was thought best to drive him
from the country, together with all the missionaries. Sev-
eral years before Dr. Whitman had known that the Indians
were displeased with his settlement anioiig them. They
had told him of it: they had treated him with violence;
they had attempted to outrage his wife; had burned hi*
property; and hftd more recently seveml tinx's warned
him to lea.o their country, or they should kill him.
m
II m
m
336
THEIR FEELINGS TOWARDS DR. WHITMAN.
Not that all were angry at him alike, or that any were
personally very ill-disposed towards him. Everything
that a man could do to instruct and elevate these savage
people, he had done, to the best of his ability, together
with his wife and assistants. But he had not been able, or
perhaps had not attempted, to conceal the fact, that he
looked upon the country as belonging to his people, rather
than to the natives, and it was this fact which was at the
bottom of their "bad hearts " toward the Doctor. So often
had warnings been given which were disregarded by Dr.
Whitman, that his friends, both at Vancouver and in the
settlements, had long felt great uneasiness, and often be-
sought him to remove to the Wal/amet valley.
But although Dr. Whitman sometimes was half per-
suaded to give up the mission upon the representations of
others, he could not quite bring himself to do so. So far
as the good conduct of the Indians was concerned, they
had never behaved better than for the last two years.
There had been less violence, less open outrage, than for-
merly ; and their civilization seemed to be progressing ;
while some few were apparently hopeful converts. Yet
there was ever a whisper in the air — "Dr. Whitman must
die."
The mission at Lapwai was peculiarly successfdl. Mrs.
Spalding, more than any other of the missionaries, had
been able to adapt herself to the Indian character, and to
gain their confidence. Besides, the Nez Perces were a
better nation than the Cayuses ; — more easily controlled
by a good counsel ; and it seemed like doing a wrong to
abandon the work so long as any good was likely to result
from it. There were other reasons too, why the missions
could not be abandoned in haste, one of which was the
difficulty of disposing of the property. This might have
INFLUENCE OF THE CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES.
337
been done perhaps, to the Cathohcs, who were establish-
inf^ missions throughout the upper country ; but Dr. Whit-
man would never have been so false to his own doctrines,
as to leave the field of his labors to the Romish Church,
Yet the division of sentiment among the Indians with
regard to religion, since the Catholic missionaries had come
among them, increased the danger of a revolt : for in
the Indian country neither two rival trading companies,
nor two rival religions can lon^ prosper side by side.
The savage cannot understr.iid the origin of so many re-
ligions. He either repudiates all, or he takes that which,
addresses itself to his understanding through the senses.
In the latter resp'^c*^, tiic forms of Catholicism, as adapted
to the savage understanding, made that religion a danger-
ous rival to intellectual and idealistic Presbyterianism.
But the more dangerou.3 the rival, the greater the firmness
with which Dr. Whitm.m would chng to his duty.
There were so many causes at work to produce a revo-
lution among the Indiana, that it would be unfair to name
any one as fhe oause. The last and immediate provoca-
tion was a season of severe sickness among them. Thfe
disease was measels, and was brought in the train of tlie
immigration.
This fact alone was enough to provoke the worst pas-
sions of the savage. The immigration in itself was a suf-
ficient offense ; the introduction through them of a pesti-
lence, a still weightier one. It did not signify that Dr.
Whitman had exerted himself night and day to give them
reUef Their peculiar notions about a medicine-man maae
it the Doctor's duty to cure the sick ; or made it the duty
of the relatives of the dead and dying lo avenge their
deaths.
Yet in spite of all and every provocation, perhaps the
fatal tragedy might have been postponed, had it not been
338
THE FATAL TEST.
for the evil influence of one Jo Lewis, a halfbreed, who
had accompanied the emigration from the vicinity of Fort
Hall. This Jo Lewis, with a large party of emigrants,
had stopped to winter at the mission, much against Dr.
Whitman's wishes ; for he feared not having food enough
for 80 many persons. Finding that he could not prevent
them, he took some of the men into his employ, and among
others the stranger half-breed.
This 1 lan was much about the house, and affected to re-
late to the Indians conversations which he heard between
Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, and Mr. Spalding, who with his
little daughter, was visiting at Waiilatpu. These conver-
sations related to poisoning the Indians, in order to get
them all out of the way, so that the white men could en
joy their country unmolested. Yet this devil incarnate
did not convince his hearers at once of the truth of his
statements ; and it was resolved in the tribe to make a
test of Dr. Whitman's medicine. Three persons were se-
lected to experiment upon ; two of them already sick, and
the third quite well. Whether it was that the medicine
was admmistered in too large quantities, or whether an
unhappy chance so ordered it, all those three persons died.
Surely it is not singular that in the savage mind this cir-
cumstance should have been deemed decisive. It was
then that the decree went forth that not only the Doctor
and Mrs. \ hH^ottp, \i^[ ftU tbe Americans at the mission
must die.
On the 22d of November, Mr. Spalding arrived at
Waiilatpu, from his mission, one hundred and twenty
miles distant, with his daughter, a child of Ion yam
bringing with him also several liurHo IoikIm fil' Kfnin, to
help feed the emigrants wintering there. lUi found the
Indians suffering very much, dying one, two, three, and
sometimes five in a day. Several of the emigrant families,
THE LAST INTERVIEW.
'6'6d
also, were sick with raeasels and the dysentery, which fol-
lowed the disease. A child of one of them died the day
following Mr. Spalding's arrival.
Dr. Whitman's family consisted of himsolf and wife,
a young man named Rodgers, who was iinployed as a
teacher, and also studying for the ministry, two young
people, a brother and sister, named Bulee, seven orphaned
children of one family, whose parents had died on the
road to Oregon in a previous year, named Sagcr, Helen
Mar, the daughter of Joe Meek, another little half-breed
girl, daughter of Bridger the fur-trader, a half-breed
Spanish boy whom the Doctor had brought up from in-
fancy, and two sons of a Mr. Manson, of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
Besides these, there were half-a-dozen other families at
the mission, and at the saw-mill, twenty miles distant, five
famihes more — in all, forty-six persons at Waiilatpu, and
fifteen at the mill, who were among those who suffered by
the attack. But there were also about the mission, three
others, Joe Lewis, Nicholas Finlay, and Joseph Stanfield,
who probably knew what was about to take .place, and
may, therefore be reckoned as among the conspirators.
While Mr. Spalding was at Waiilatpu, a message came
from twOk Walla- Walla chiefs, living on the Umatilla River,
to Dr. Whitman, desiring him to visit the sick in their
villages, and the two friends set out together to attend to
the call, on the evening of the 27th of November. Says
Mr. Spalding, refen-ing to that time: "The night was
dark, and the wind and rain beat furiously upon us. But
our interview was sweet. We little thought it was to be
our last. With feelings of the deepest emotion we called
to mind the fact, that eleven years before, we crossed this
trail before arriving at Walla- Walla, the end of our seven
months' journey from New York. We called to mind
mm
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II.
W^TT
fiiri5
840
NIGHT VIBIT TO THE UMATILLA.
the high hopes and thrilling interests which had heen
awakened during the year that followed — of our success
I'ul labors and the constant devotedness of the Indians to
improvement. True, we remembered the months of deep
solicitude we had, occasioned by the increasing menacing
<leiuands ot the Indiaus for pay for their wood, their
water, their air, their landa But much of this had passed
away, and the Cayuses were in a far more encouraging
condition than ever before." Mr. Spalding further re-
lates that himself and Dr. Whitman also conversed on the
danger which threatened them from the Catholic influence.
" We felt," he says, " that the present sickness afforded
them a favorable opportunity to excite the Indians to
drive us from the country, and all the movements about
us seemed to indicate that this would soon be attempted,
if not executed." Such was the suspicion in the minds
of the Protestants. Let us hope that it was not so well
founded as they believed.
The two friends arrived late at the lodge of Stickas, a
chief, and laid down before a blazing fire to dry their
drenched clothing. In the morning a good breakfast was
prepared for them, consisting of beef, vegetables, and
bread — all of which showed the improvement of the In-
dians in the art of living. The day, being Sunday, was
observed with as much decorum as in a white man's house.
After breakfast, Dr. Whitman crossed the river to visit
the chiefs who had sent for him, namely, Tan-i-tan, Five
Croivs^ and Yam-ha-wa-lis, returning about four o'clock
in the afternoon, saying he had taken tea with the Cath-
olic bishop and two priests, at their house, which belonged
to Tan-i-tan^ and that they had promised to visit him in a
short time. He then departed for the mission, feeling
uneasy about the sick ones at home.
Mr. Spalding remained with the intention of visiting
8TICKA8 WARNING — TUE DEATH SONO.
;uL
the sick and offering consolation to the dying. But he
soon discovered that tliere wjis a weighty and uncomfort-
able secret on the mind of his entertainer, Stickas. After
much questioning, Stickas admitted that the thought which
troubled him was that the Americans had been " decreed
ii'^ainst " by his people ; more he could not be induced to
reveal. Anxious, yet not seriously alarmed, — for these
warnings had been given before many times, — he retired
to his couch of skins, on the evening of the 29th, being
Monday — not to sleep, however ; for on either side of
him an Indian woman sat down to chant the death-song
— that frightful lament which announces danger and death.
On being questioned they would reveal nothing.
On the following morning, Mr. Spalding could no longer
remain in uncertainty, but set out for Waiilatpu. As he
mounted his horse to depart, an Indian woman placed
her hand on the neck of his horse to arrest him, and pre-
tending to be arranging his head-gear, said in a low voice
to the rider, "Beware of the Cayuses at the mission."
Now more than ever disturbed by this intimation that it
was the mission which was threatened, he hurried for-
ward, fearing for his daughter and his friends. He pro-
ceeded without meeting any one until within sight of the
lovely Walla-Walla valley, almost in sight of the mission
itself, when suddenly, at a wooded spot where the trail
masses through a little hollow, he beheld two horsemen
idvancing, whom he watched with a fluttering heart,
onging for, and yet dreading, the news which the very
air seemed whispering.
The two horsemen proved to be the Catholic Vicar
General, Brouillet, who, with a party of priests and nuns
had arrived in the country only a few months previous,
and his half-breed interpreter, both of whom were known
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MEETING WITH BROUILLET.
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to Mr. Spalding. They each drew rein as they approach-
ed, Mr. Spalding immediately inquiring "what news?"
" There are very many sick at the Whitman station,"
answered Brouillet, with evident embarrassment.
" How are Doctor and Mrs. Whitman ?" asked Spalding
anxiously.
" The Doctor is ill — is dead," added the priest reluc-
tantly.
"And Mrs. Whitman ?" gasped Spalding.
" Is dead also. The Indians have killed them."
" My daughter ?" murmured the agonized questioner.
" Is safe, with the other prisoners," answered Brouillat.
"And then," says Spalding in speaking of that moment
of infinite horror, when in his imagination a picture of the
massacre, of the anguish of his child, the suffering of the
prisoners, of the probable destruction of his own family
and mission, and his surely impending fate, all rose up
before him — " I felt the world all blotted out at once, and
sat on my horse as rigid as a stone, not knowing or feeling
anything."
While this conversation had been going on the half-
breed interpreter had kept a sinister watch over the com-
munication, and his actions had so suspicious a look that
the priest ordered him to ride on ahead. When he had
obeyed, Brouillet gave some rapid instructions to Spald-
ing ; not to go near the mission, where he could do no
good, but would be certainly murdered ; but to fly, to
hide himself until the excitement was over. The men ai
the mission were probably all killed; the women and
children would be spared ; nothing could be done at pres-
ent but to try to save his own life, which the Indians were
resolved to take.
The conversation was hurried, for there was no time to
lose. Spalding gave his pack-horse to Brouillet, to avoid
MR. SPALDING 8 NIGHT JOURNEY.
343
being encumbered by it; and taking some provisions
which the priest offered, struck off into the woods there
to hide until dark. Nearly a week from this night he ar-
rived at the Lapwai mission, starved, torn, with bleeding
feet as well as broken heart. Obliged to secrete himself
by day, his horse had. escaped from him, leaving him to
perform his night journeys on foot over the sharp rocka
and prickly cactus plants, until not only his shoes had
been worn out, but his feet had become cruelly lacerated.
The constant feai- which had preyed upon his heart of
finding his family murdered, had produced fearful havoc
in the life-forces ; and although Mr. Spalding had the hap-
piness of finding that the Nez Perces had been true ta
Mrs. Spalding, defending her from destruction, yet so
great had been the first shock, and so long continued the
strain, that his nervous system remained a wreck ever
afterward.
MOUT^T HOOD FROM THE DALLES.
CHAPTER XXXI.
1847. When Dr. Whitman reached home on that San-
day night, after parting with Mr. Spalding at the Umatilla,
it was already about midnight ; yet he visited the sick
befoje retiring to rest ; and early in the morning resumed
his duties among them. An Indian died that morning.
At his burial, which the Doctor attended, he observed
that but few of the friends and relatives of the deceased
were present but attributed it to the fear which the In-
dians have of disease.
Everything about the mission was going on as usual.
Quite a number of Indians were gathered about the place;
but as an ox was being butchered, the crowd was easily
accounted for. Three men were dressing the beef in the
yard. The afternoon session of the mission school had
just commenced. The mechanics belonging to the station
were about their various avocations. Young Bulee. was
sick in the Doctor's house. Three of the orphan children
who A^ere recovering from the measles, were with the
Doctor and Mrs. Whitman in the sitting-room ; and also a
Mrs. Osborne, one of the emigrants who had just got up
from a sick bed, and who had a sick child in her arms.
The Doctor had just come in, wearied, and dejected as it
was possible for his resolute spirit to be, and had seated
himself, bible in hand, when several Indians came to a side
door, asking permission to come in and get some medicine.
The Doctor rose, got his medicines, gave them out, and
i'l
Q that Sun-
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d the sick
ig resumed
morning,
e observed
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ich the In-
n as usual.
t the place;
was easily
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COMMENCEMENT OF THE MASSACRE.
845
sat down again. At that moment Mrs. Whitman was in
an adjoining room and did not see what followed. Tarn-
ahas, a chief called "the murderer," came behind the
Doctor's chair, and raising his tomahawk, struck the Doc-
tor in the back of the head, stunning but not killing him.
Instantly there was a violent commotion. John Sager,
one of the adopted children, sprang up with his pistol in
his hand, bat before he could fire it, he too was struck
down, and cut and hacked shockingly. In the meantime
Dr. Whitman had received a second blow upon the head,
and now laid lifeless on the floor. Cries and confusion
filled the house.
At the first sound, Mrs. Whitman, in whose ears that
whisper in the air had so long sounded, began in agony
to stamp upon the floor, and wring her hands, crying out,
"Oh, the lGdian.s, the Indians!" At that moment one of
the women from an adjoining building came running in,
gasping with terror, for the butchery was going on outside
as well, and Tam-a-has and his associates were now assist-
ing at it. Going to the room where the Doctor lay insen-
sible, Mrs. Whitman and her terrified neighbor dragged
him to the sofa and laid him upon it, doing all they could
to revive him. To all their inquiries he answered by a
whispered " o," probably not conscious what was said.
While this was being done, the people from every quar-
ter began to crowd into the Doctor's house, many of them
wounded. Outside were heard the shrieks of women, the
yells of the Indians, the roar of musketry, the noise of fu-
rious riding, of meeting war-clubs, groans, and every
frightful combination of sound, such as only could be heard
at such a carnival of blood. Still Mrs. Whitman sat by
her husband's side, intent on trying to rouse him to say
one coherent word.
Nearer and nearer came the struggle, and she heard
uc
THE MURDER OF MRS. WHITMAN,
s '■ '. '■
some one exclaim that two of her friends were being mur-
dered beneath the window. Starting up, she approached
the casement to get a view, as iif by looking she could
save ; but that moment she encountered the fiendish gaze
of Jo Lewis the half-breed, and comprehended his guilt
" Is it you, Jo, who are doing this?" she cried. Before the
expression of horror had left her lips, a young Indian who
had been a special favorite about the mission, drew up his
gun and fired, the ball entering her right breast, when she
fell without a groan.
When the people had at first rushed in, Mrs. Whitman
had ordered the doors fastened and the sick children re-
moved to a room up stairs. Thither now she was herself
conveyed, having first recovered sufficiently to stagger to
the sofa where lay her dying husband. Those who wit-
nessed this strange scene, say that she knelt and prayed —
prayed for the orphan children she was leaving, and for
her aged parents. The only expression cf personal regret
she was heard to utter, was sorrow that her father and
mother should live to know she had perished in such a
manner.
In the chamber were now gathered Mrs. Whitman, Mrs.
Hayes, Miss Bulee, Catharine Sager, thirteen years of age,
and three of the sick children, besides Mr. Rogers and Mr.
Kimble. Scarcely had they gained this retreat when the
crashing of windows and doors was heard below, and with
whoops and yells the savages dashed into the sitting-room
where Doctor Whitman still lay dying. While some
busied themselves removing from the house the goods and
furniture, a chief named Te-lau-ka-ikt, a favorite at the
mission, and on probation for admission into the church,
deliberately chopped and mangled the face of his still
breathing teacher and friend with his tomahawk, until every
feature was rendered unrecognizable.
THE SUFFERINGS OF THE CHILDREN.
347
The children from the school-house were brought into
the kitchen of the Doctor's house about this time, by Jo
Lewis, where, he told them, they were going to be shot.
Mr. Spalding's little girl Eliza, was among them. Under-
stiuiding the native language, she was fully aware of the
terrible import of what was being said by their tormen-
tors. While the Indians talked of shooting the children
huddled together in the kitchen, pointing their guns, and
yelling, Eliza covered her face with her apron, and leaned
over upon the sink, that she might not see them shoot her.
After being tortured in this manner for some tinae, the
children were finally ordered out of doors.
While this was going on, a chief called Tamt^ak-y, was
trying to induce Mrs. Whitman to come down into the
sitting-room.
She replied that she was wounded and could not do so,
upon which he professed much sorrow, and still desired
her to be brought down, " If you are my friend Ttfmt'
aak-y^ come up and see me," was her reply to his profes-
sions, but he objected, sajang there were Americans con-
cealed in the chamber, whom he feared njight kill him.
Mr. Rogers then went to the head of the stairs and en-
deavored to have the chief come up, hoping there might
be some friendly ones, who would aid them in escaping '
from the murderers. Tamt-sak-y, however, would not
come up the stairs, although he persisted in sajdng that
Mrs. Whitman should not be harmed, and that if all would
come down and go over to the other house where the fami-
lies were collected, they might do so in safety.
The Indians below now began to call out that they were
going to burn the Dpctor's house. Then no alternative
remained but to descend and trust to the mercy of the
savages. As Mrs. Whitman entered the sitting-room, lean-
ing on one orm of Mr. Rogers, who also wa^ wovinded in
348
THE VICTIMS TORTURED.
I; I
the head, and had a broken arm, sho cauglit a view of the
shockingly mutilated face of her husband and fell fainting
upon the sofa, just as Doctor Whitman gave a dying gaap.
Mr. Rogers and Mrs. Hayes now attempted to get the
sofa, or settee, out of the house, and had succeeded in
moving it through the kitchen to the door. No sooner
did they appear in the open door-way than a volley of balls
assailed them. Mr. Rogers fell at once, but did not die
immediately, for one of the most horrid features in this
horrid butchery was, that the victims were murdered by
torturing degrees. Mrs. Whitman also received several
gunshot wounds, lying on the settee. Francis Sager, the
oldest of her adopted boys, was dragged into the group of
dying ones and shot down.
The children, who had been turned out of the kitchec
were still huddled together about the kitchen door, so
near to this awful scene that every incident was known to
them, so near that the flashes from the guns of the Indians
burnt their hair, and the odor of the blood and the bum*
ing powder almost suflfocated them.
At two o'clock in the afternoon the massacre had com-
menced. It was now growing dusk, and the demons were
eager to finish their work. Seeing that life still lingered
in the mangled bodies of their victims, they finished their
atrocities by hurling them in the mud and gore which filled
the yard, and beating them upon their faces with whips
and clubs, while the air was filled with the noise of their
shouting, singing, and dancing — the Indian women and
children assisting at these orgies, as if the Bible had never
been preached to them. And thus, after eleven years of
patient endeavor to save some heathen 30uls alive, perished
Doctor and Mrs. Whitman.
In all that number of Indians who had received daily
kindnesses at the hands of the missionaries, only tW4
ESCAPE OF MR. ObliOUNE AND FAMILY.
341>
showed auy compassion. These two, Upa and MadpooJy
Walla- Wallas, who were employed by the Doctor, took
the children away from the sickening sights that sur-
rounded them, into the kitchen pantry, and there in secret
tried to comfort them.
When night set iu me children and families were all re-
moved to the building called the mansion-house, where they
spent a night of horror ; all, except those who were left in
Mrs. Whitman's chamber, from which they dared rot de-
scend, and the family of Mr. Osborne, who escaped.
On the first assault Mr. and Mrs. Osborne ran into their
bedroom which adjoined the sitting-room, taking with
them their three small children. Raising a plank in the
floor, Mr. 0. quickly thrust his wife and children into the
space beneath, and then following, let the plank down to
its place. Here they remained until darkness set in, able
to hear all that was passing about them, and fearing to
stir. When all was quiet at the Doctor's house, they stole
out under cover of darkness and succeeded in reaching
Fort WaJla- Walla, after a painful journey of several days,
or rather nights, for they dared not travel by day.
Another person who escaped was a Mr. Hall, carpenter,
who in a hand to hand contest with an Indian, received a
wound in the face, but finally reached the cover of some
bushes where he remained until dark, and then fled in the
direction of Fort Walla- Walla. Mr. Hall was the first to
a,rrive at the fort, where, contrary to his expectations, and
to all humanity, he was but coldly received by the gentle-
man in charge, Mr. McBean.
Whether it was from cowardice or cruelty as some al-
leged, that Mr. McBean rejoiced in the slaughter of the
Protestant missionaries, himself being a Catholic, can never
be known. Had that been true, one might have supposed
that their death would have been enough, and that h&
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ESCAPE ANI> FATE OF MR. HALL.
might have sheltered a wounded man fleeing for his Hfe
without grudging him this atom of comfort, Unfortunately
for Mr. McBean's reputation, he declined to grant such shel-
ter willingly. Mr. Ilall remained, however, twelve hours
until he heard a report that the women and children were
murdered, when, knowing how unwelcome he was, and be-
ing in a hidf distracted state, he consented to be set across
the Columbia to make his way as best he could to the Walla-
met From this hour he was never seen or heard from,
the manner of his death remaining a mystery to his wife
and their family of five children, who were among the
prisoners at Waiilatpu.
When Mr. Osborne left the mission in the darkness, he
w.is able only to proceed about two miles, before Mrs. Os-
borne's strength gave way, she lately having been con-
fined by an untimely birth ; and he was compelled to stop,
secreting himself and family in some bushes. Here they
remained, suffering with cold, and insuflBcient food, having
only a little bread and cold mush which they had found
in the pantry of the Doctor's house, before leaving it. On
Tuesday night, Mrs. 0. was able to move about three miles
more: and again they were compelled to stop. In this
way to proceed, they must all perish of starvation;
therefore on Wednesday night Mr. 0. took the second
child and started with it for the fort, where he arrived be-
fore noon on Thursday.
Although Mr.McBean received him with friendliness of
manner, he refused him horses to go for Mrs. Osborne aud
his other children, and even refused to furnish food to re-
relieve their hunger, telling him to go to the Umatilla,
and forbidding his return to the fort. A little food VM
given to himself and child, who had been faating since
Monday night. Whether Mr. McBean would have allowed
this man to perish is uncertain : but certain it is that ^lUn
M
rit
CRUEL TREATMENT OP FUGITIVES.
351
f^
ImsG or cowardly motive made him exceedingly cruel to
both Hall and Osborne.
While Mr Osborne was p; .'taking of his tea and crackers,
there arrived at the fort Mr. Stanley, the artist, whom the
R'lider will remember having met in the mountain."^ sc v.al
years before. When the case became known to him, ho
olfcred his horses immediately to go for Mrs. Osbo.ne.
Slmined into an appearance of humanity, Mr. McB' <\ i then
furnished an Ind'an guide to accompany Mr. 0. to the
Umatilla, where iie still insisted the i'agitives should go,
though iLis was in the murderer's country.
A little meat and a few crackers were furnished for the
supper of the travelers ; and with a handkerchief for his
hatless head and a pair of socks for his child's naked feet,
all furnished by Mr. Stanley, Mr. O.sborne set out to return
to his suffering wife and children. He and his guide trav-
eled rapidly, arriving in good time near the spot where
he believed his family to be concealed. But the darkness
had confused his recollection, and after beating the bushes
until daylight, the unhappy husband and father was about
to give up the search in despair, when his guide at length
discovered their retreat.
The poor mother and children were barely alive, hav-
ing suffered much from famine and exposure, to say noth-
ing of their fears. Mrs. Osborne was compelled to be
tied to the Indian in order to sit her horse. In this con-
dition the miserable fugitives turned toward the Umatilla,
in obedience to the command of McBean, and were only
saved from being murdered by a Caj'use by the i?ioruful
words of the guide, who shamed the murderer from his
purpose of slaughtering a sick and defenceless family.
At a Canadian farm-house, where they stopped to change
horses, they were but roughly received ; and learning
here that Tamt-adk-ifa lodge was near by, Mrs. Osborne
23
;:i
352
KINDNESS OF STICKAS.
1^ I
refused to proceed any farther toward the Umatilla. She
said, " I doubt if I can live to reach the Umatilla ; and if
I must die, I may as well die at the gates of the Fort"
Let, us, then, turn back to the Fort."
To this the guide assented, saying it was not safe going
among the Cayuses. The little p. ly, quite exhausted,
reached Walla- Walla about ten o'clock at night, and were
at once admitted. Contrary to his former course, Mr.
McBean now ordered a fire made to warm the benumbed
travelers, who, after being made tolerably comfortable,
were. placed in a secret room of the fort. Again Mr.
Osborne was importuned to go away, down to the Walla-
met, Mr. McBean promising to take care of his family
and furnish him an outfit if he would do so. Upon being
asked to furnish a boat, and Indians to man it, in order
that the family might accompany him, he replied that Lis
Indians refused to go.
From all this reluctance, not only on the part of Mc-
Bean, but of the Indians also, to do any act which ap-
peared like befriending the Americans, it would appear
that there was a very general fear of the Cayuse Indians,
and a belief that they were about to inaugurate a general
war upon the Americans, and their friends and allies. Mr.
Osborne, however, refused to leave his family behind, and
Mr. McBean was forced to let him remain until rehef
came. When it did come at last, in the shape of Mr.
Ogden's party, Stickas^ the chief who had warned Mr.
Spalding, showed his kind feeling for the sufierers by
removing his own cap and placing it on Mr. Osborne's
head, and by tying a handkerchief over the ears of Mr.
Osborne's little son, as he said, " to keep him warm, going
down the river." Sadly indeed, did the little ones who
suffered by the massacre at Waiilatpu, stand in need of
any Christian kindness.
<i.li,iiP*-
CHAPTER XXXII
1847. A FULL account of the horrors of the Waii-
latpu massacre, together with the individual sufferings of
the captives whose lives were spared, would fill a volume,
and be harrowing to the reader ; therefore, only so much
of it will be given here as, from its bearing upon Oregon
history, is important to our narrative.
The day following the massacre, being Tuesday, was
the day on which Mr. Spalding was met and warned not
to go to the mission, by the Vicar General, Brouillet.
Happening at the mission on that day, and finding the
bodies of the victims still unburied, Brouillet had them
hastily interred before leaving, if interment it could be
called which left them still a prey to wolves. The reader
of this chapter of Oregon history will always be very much
puzzled to understand by what means the Catholic priests
procured their ;^erfect exemption from harm during this
time of terror to the Americans. Was it that they were
French, and that they came into the country only as mis-
sionaries of a rtiligion adapted to the savage mind, and
not as settlers ? Was it at all owing to the fact that they
were celibates, with no families to excite jealou*- feelings
of comr)arison in the minds of their converts ?
Through a long and bitter war of words, which fol-
lowed the massacre at Waiilatpu, ter'-ible sins were charged
upon the priests — no less than inciting the Indians to the
murder of the Protestants, and winking ai; the atrocities of
354
EXEMPTION OF THE CATHOLICS.
-fit
II
every kind committed by the savages. Whether they
feared to enter into the quarrel, and were restrained from
showing sympathy solely by this fear, is a question only
themselves can determine. Certain it is, that they pre-
served a neutral position, when to be neutral was to seem,
if not to be, devoid of human sympathies. That the
event would have happened without any other provoca-
tion than such as the Americans furnished by their own
reckless disregard of Indian prejudices, seems evident.
The question, and the only question which is suggested
by a knowledge of all the circumstances, is whether the
event was helped on by an intelligent outside influence.
It was quite natural that the Protestants should wonder
at the immunity from danger which the priests enjoyed ;
and that, not clearly seeing the reason, they should sus-
pect them of collusion with the Indians. It was natural,
too, for the sufferers from the massacre to look for some
expression of sympathy from any and all denominations
of Christians ; and that, not receiving it, they should have
doubts of the motives which prompted such reserve.
The story of that time is but an unpleasant record, and
had best be lightly touched upon.
The work of death and destruction did not close with
th3 first day at Waiilatpu. Mr. Kimble, who had re-
mained in the chamber of the Doctor's house all night,
had suffered much from the pain of his broken arm. On
Tuesday, driven desperate by his own sufferings, and those
of the thrc3 sick children with him, one of whom was the
little Helen Mar Meek, he resolved to procure some water
from the stream which ran near the house. But he had
not proceeded more than a few rods before he was shot
down and killed instantly. The same day, a Mr. Young,
from the saw-mill, was also killed. In the course of the
week, Mr. Bulee, who was sick over at the mansion, was
brutally murdered.
FATE OP THE YOUNG WOMEN.
855
lion, was
Meanwhile the female captives and children T/ere en-
during such agony as seldom falls to the lot of humanity
to suiFer. Compelled to work for the Indians, th'jir feel-
ings were continually harrowed up by the terrible sights
which everywhere met their eyes in going back and forth
between the houses, in caiTying water from the stream, or
moving in any direction whatever. For the dead were
not removed until the setting in of decay made it neces-
sary to the Indians themselves.
The goods belonging to the mission were taken from
the store-room, and the older women ordered to make them
up into clothing for the Indians. The buildings were plun-
dered of everything which the Indians coveted; all the
rest of their contents that could not be made useful to
themselves were destroyed. Those of the captives who
were sick were not allowed proper attention, and in a day
or two Helen Mar Meek died of neglect.
Thus passed four or five days. On Saturday a new ,
horror was added to the others. The savages began to
carry off the young women for wives. Three were thus
dragged away to Indian lodges to suffer tortures worse
than death. One young girl, a daughter of Mr. Kimble,
was taken poseession of by the murderer of her father,
who took daily delight in reminding her of that fact, and
when her sorrow could no longer be restrained, only
threatened to exchange her for another young girl who
was also a wife by compulsion.
Miss Bulee, the eldest of the young women at the mission,
and who was a teacher in the mission school, was taken to
the Umatilla, to the lodge of Five- Grows. As has before
been related, there was a house on the Umatilla belonging
to Tani-tan^ in which were residing at this time two Cath-
olic priests — the Vicar-General Brouillet, and Blanchet,
Bishop of Wallp-Walla. To this house Miss Bulee applied
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356
MISS BULEE AND THE PRIESTS.
for protection, and was refused, whether from fear, or from
the motives subsequently attributed to them by some
Protestant writers in Oregon, is not known to any but
themselves. The only thing certain about it is, that Miss
Bulee was allowed to be violently dragged from their
presence every night, to return to them weeping in the
morning, and to have her entreaties for their assistance
answered by assurances from them that the wisest course
for her was to submit. * And this continued for more than
two weeks, until the news of Mr. Ogden's arrival at Walla-
Walla became known, when Miss Bulee was told that if
Five- Croivs would not allow her to remain at their house
altogether, she must remain at the lodge of Five-Grows
without coming to their house at all, well knowing what
Five- Crows would do, but wishing to have MLss Bulee's
action seem voluntary, from shame perhaps, at their own
cowardice. Yet the reason they gave ought to go for all
it is worth — that they being priests could not have a
woman about their house. In this unhappy situation did
the female captives spend three most miserable weeks.
In the meantime the mission at Lapwai had been broken
up, but not destroyed, nor had any one suffered death as
was at first feared. The intelligence of the massacre at
Waiilatpu was first conveyed to Mrs. Spalding by a Mr.
Oamfield, who at the breaking out of the massacre, fled
with his wife and children to a small room in the attic of
the mansion, from the window of which he was able to
behold the scenes which followed. When night came Mr.
Camfield contrived to elude observation and descend into
the yard, where he encountered a French Canadian long
in the employ of Dr. Whitman, and since suspected to
have been privy to the plan of the murders. To him Mr.
Camfield confided his intention to escape, and obtained a
promise that a horse should be brought to a certain place
ESCAPE OP MR. CAMFIELD.
357
at a certain time for his use. But the Canadian failing to
appear with his horse, Mr. C. set out on footj and under
cover of night, in the direction of the Lapwai mission.
He arrived in the Nez Perce country on Thursday. On
the following day he came upon a camp of these people,
and procured from them a guide to Lapwai, without, how-
ever, speaking of what had occurred at Waiilatpu.
The caution of Mr. Camfield relates to a trait of Indian
character which the reader of Indiah history must bear in
mind, that is, the close relationship and identity of fejeling
of allied tribes. Why he did not inform the Nez Perces
of the deed done by their relatives, the Cayuses, was be-
cause in that case he would have expected them to have
sympathized with their allies, even to the point of making
him a prisoner, or of taking his life. It is this fact concern-
ing the Indian character, which alone furnishes an excuse
for the conduct of Mr. McBean and the Catholic priests.
Upon it Mr. Camfield acted, making no sign of fear, nor
betraying any knowledge of the terrible matter on his
mind to the Nez Perces.
On Saturday afternoon Mr. C. arrived at Mrs. Spalding's
house and dismissed his guide with the present of a buf-
falo 1 ' ^ When he was alone with Mrs. Spalding he
told his unhappy secret. It was then that the strength
and firmness of Mrs. Spalding's character displayed itself
in her decisive action. Well enough she knew the close
bond between the Nez Perces and Cayuses, and also the
treachery of the Indian character. But she saw that if
affairs were left to shape themselves as Mr. Camfield
entreated they might be left to do, putting off the evil
day, — that when the news came from the Cayuses, there
would be an outbreak.
The only chance of avertuig this danger was to inform
the chiefs most attached to her, at once, and throw herself
358
HEROISM OF MRS. SPALDING.
and her family upon their mercy. Her resolution was
taken not an hour too soon. Two of the chiefs most re-
lied upon happened to be at the place that very afternoon
one of whom was cialled Jacob, and the other Eagle. To
these two Mrs. Spalding confided the news without delay,
and took counsel of them. According to her hopes, they
assumed the responsibility of protecting her. One of
them went to inform his camp, and give them orders to
stand by Mrs. S., while the other carried a note to Mr.
Craig, one of our Rocky Mountain acquaintances, who
lived ten miles from the mission.
Jacob and Eagle^ with two other friendly chiefs, deci-
ded that Mrs. S. must go to their camp near Mr. Craig's;
because in case the Cayuses came to the mission as was to
be expected, she would be safer with them. Mrs. S. how-
ever would not consent to make the move ou the Sabbath,
out begged to be allowed to remain quiet until Monday.
Late Saturday evening Mr. Craig came down ; and Mrs.
Spalding endeavored with his assistance to induce the In.
dians to carry an express to Cimikain in the country of
the Spokanes, where Messrs. Walker and Eells had a sta-
tion. Not an Indian could be persuaded to go. An ef-
fort, also, was made by the heroic and suflfering wife and
mother, to send an express to Waiilatpu to learn the fate
of her daughter, and if possible of her husband. But the
Indians were none of them inclined to go. They said,
without doubt all the women and children were slain.
That Mr. Spalding was alive no one believed.
The reply of Mrs. S. to their objections was that she
could not believe that they were her friends if they would
not undertake this jouvney, for he relief of her feelings
ander such circumstances. At length Ea^le consented to
go ; but so much opposed were the others to having any-
thing done which their relations, the Cayuses, might be
•Ml; •
THE LAPWAI MISSION PLUNDERED.
351)
displeased with, that it was nearly twenty-four hours be-
fore Eagle got leave to go.
On Monday morning a Nez Perce arrived from Waii-
latpu with the news of what the Cayuses had done. With
him were a number of Indians from the camp where Mr.
Camfield had stopped for a guide, all eager for plunder, and
for murder too, had not they found Mrs. Spalding pro-
tected by several chiefs. Her removal to their camp
probably saved her from the fate of Mrs. Whitman.
Among those foremost in plundering the mission build-
ings at Lapwai were some of the hitherto most exemplary
Indians among the Nez Perces. Even the chief, first in
authority after Ellis, who was absent, was prominent in
these robberies. For eight years had this chief, Joseph,
been a member of the church at Lapwai, and sustained a
good reputation during that time. How bitter must have
been the feelings of Mrs. Spalding, who had a truly de-
voted missionarjr heart, when she beheld the fruit of her
life's labor turned to ashes in her sight as it was by the
conduct of Joseph and his family.
Shortly after the removal of Mrs. Spalding, and the pil-
laging of the buildings, Mr. Spalding arrived at Lapwai
from his long and painful journey during which he had
wandered much out of his way, and suflFered many things.
His appearance was the signal for earnest consultations
among the Nez Perces who were not certain that they
might safely give protection to him without the qonsent
of the Cayuses. To his petition that they should cany a
letter express to Fort Colville or Fort Walla- Walla, they
would not consent. Their reason for refusing seemed to
be a fear that such a letter might be answered by an
armed body of Americans, who would come to avenge the
deaths of their countrymen.
To deprive them of this suspicion, Mr. Spalding told
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MR. Spalding's arrival at lapwai.
tbem that as he had been robbed of everything, he had
no means of paying them for their services to his family,
and that it was necessary to write to Walla- Walla for
blankets, and to the Umatilla for his horses. He assured
them that he would write to his countrymen to keep quiet,
and that they had nothing to fear from the Americans.
The truth was, however, that he had forwarded through
Brouillet, a letter to Gov. Abernethy asking for help
which could only come into that hostile country armed
and equipped for war.
Late in the month of December there arrived in Ore-
gon City to be delivered to the governor, sixty-two cap-
tives, bought from the Cayuses and Nez Perces by Hud-
son's Bay blankets and goods ; and obtained at that price
by Hudson's Bay influence. "No other power on earth,"
says Joe Meek, the American, "could have rescued those
prisoners from the hands of the Indians ;" and no maa
better than Mr. Meek understood the Indian character,
or the Hudson's Bay Company's power over them.
The number of victims to the Waiilatpu massacre was
fourteen. None escaped who had not to mourn a father,
brother, son, or friend. If "the blood of the martyrs is
the seed of the church," there ought to arise on the site
of Waiilatpu a generation of extraordinary piety. As for
the people for whom a noble man and woman, and num-
bers of innocent, persons were sacrificed, they have re-
turuQd to their traditions ; with the exception of the Nez
Perces, who under the leadership of their old teacher Mr
Spalding, have once more resumed the pursuits of civil-
ized and Christianized nations.
The description of Waiilatpu at the present time given
on the following page, is from "All Over Oregon and
Washington'''' by the author of this book.
WAIILATPU OF TO-DAT.
361
" Waiilatpu is just tliat — a creek-bottom — the creeks on either
side of it fringed with trees; higher land shutting cut the view
in front; isolation and solitude the most striking features of
the place. Yet here came a man and a woman to live and to
labor Minong the savages, when all the old Oregon t',rrItory was
iiii Indian country. Here stood the station erected b^ them :
adobe houses, a mill, a school-house for the Indians, shops,
jiiid all the necessary appurtenances of an isolated settlement.
Nothing remains to-day but mounds of earth, into which the
adobes were dissolved by weather, after burning.
"A few rods away, on the side of the hill, is a different mound :
the common grave of fourteen victims of savage superstition,
jealousy, and wrath. It is roughly inclosed by a board fence,
and has not a shrub or a flower to disguise its terrible signifi-
cance. The most affecting reminders of wasted effort which
remain on the old Mission-grounds are the two or three apple-
trees which escaped the general destruction, and the scarlet
poppies which are scattered broadcast through the creek-bottom
near the houses. Sadly significant it is. that the flower whose
evanescent bloom is the symbol of unenduring joys, should be
the only tangible witness left of the womanly tastes and labors
of the devoted Missionary who gave her life a sacrifice to un-
grateful Indian savagery.
" The place is occupied, at present, by one of Dr. "Whitman's
jarly friends and co-laborers, who claimed the Mission-ground,
iinder the Donation Act, and who was first and most active in
founding the seminary to the memory of a Christian gentleman
and martyr. On the identical spot where stood the Doctor's
residence, now stands the more mo'dern one of his friend ; and
he seems to take a melancholy pleasure in keeping in remem-
brance the events of that unhappy time, which threw a gloom
over the whole territory west of the Kocky Mountains."
PTTf
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CHAPTER XXXIII.
1847-8. When the contents of Mr. Douglas' letter to
the governor became known to the citizens of the Walla-
met settlement, the greatest excitement prevailed. On
the reading of that letter, and those accompanying it, be-
fore the House, a resolution was immediately introduced
authorizing the governor to raise a company of riflemen,
not to exceed fifty in number, to occupy and hold the
mission station at the Dalles, until a larger force could be
raised, and such measures adopted as the government
might think advisable. This resolution being sent to the
governor without delay, received his approval, when the
House adjourned.
A large meeting of the citizens was held that evening,
which was addressed by several gentlemen, among whom
was Meek, whose taste for Indian fighting was whetted to
keenness by the aggravating circumstances of the Wuilat-
pu massacre, and the fact that his little Helen Mar was
among the captives. IiApatient as was Meek to avenge
the murders, he was too good a mountain-man to give any
rash advice. All that could be done under the existing
circumstances was to trust to the Hudson's Bay Company
for the rescue of the prisoners, and to take such means for
defending the settlements as the people in their unarmed
condition could devise.
The legislature undertook the settlement of the ques-
tion of ways and means. To raise money for the carrying
WAYS AND MEANS OP DEFENCE.
863
out of the most important measures immediately, was a
task which after some consideration was entrusted to three
commissioners ; and by these commissioners letters were
addressed to the Hudson's Bay Company, the superintend-
eut of the Methodist mission, and to the " merchants and
citizens of Oregon." The latter communication is valua-
ble as fully explaining the position of aiFaira at that time
in Oregon. It is dated Dec. 17th, and was as follows :
Gentlemen : — You are aware that the undersigned have been charged by
the le" islature of our provisional government with the difficult duty of obtain-
ing the necessary means to arm, equip, and support in the field a force sufficient
to obtain full satisfaction of the Cayuso Indians, for the lato massacre at Waiilat-
pu, and to protect the white population of our common country from further
aggrcsBion.
In furtherance of this object they have deemed it their duty to make imme-
diate application to the merchants and citizens of the country for the requisite
assistance.
Though clothed with the power to pledge, to the fullest extent, the faith and
means of the present government of Oregon, they do not consider this pledge
the only security to those who, in this distressing emergency, may extend to the
people of this country the means of protection and redress.
Without claiming any special authority from the government of the United
States to contract a debt to be liquidated by that power, yet, fk>m all prece-
dents of like character in the history of our country, the undersigned feel con-
fident that the United States government will regard the murder of the late
Dr. Whitman and his lady, as a national wrong, and will fully justify the peo-
ple of Oregon in taking active measures to obtain redress for that outrage, and
for their protection from further aggression.
The right of self-defence is tacitly acknowledged to every body politic in the
confederacy to which we claim to belong, and in every case similar to our own,
irithin our knowledge, the general government has promptly assumed the pay-
ment of all liabilities growing out of the measures, taken by the constituted
authorities, to protect the lives and property of those who reside within the
limits of their districts.
If the citizens of the States and territories, east of the Rocky mountuns,
are justified in promptly acting in such emergencies, who are under the
immediate protection of the general government, there appears no room for
doubt that the lawfU acts of the Oregon government will receive a like ap-
proval.
Though the Indians of the Columbia have committed a great outrage upon
oor fellow citizens passing through their country, and residing among them.
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304
FIRST REGIMENT OF OREGON RIFLEMEN.
and their puninhincnt for thcito innrdcrs may, and ought to he, a prime object
with every citizen of Oregon, yet, as that duty mora particularly devolvei upon
the government of the United Stutet), and admits of delay, we do not mike
this the 8tron<;c8t ground upon which to found our earnest appeal to you for
pecuniary axHisitance. It is a fact well known to every person acquainted with
the Indian character, that, by passing silently over their repeated thefts, rob-
beries, and murders of our fellow-citizens, they have been emboldened to the
commission of the appalling massacre at Waiilatpu. They call us wooKn,
destitute of the hearts and courage of men, and if we allow this wholesale mu^
der to pass by as former aggressions, who can tell how long either life or prop-
erty will be secure in any part of this country, or what moment the WiHamette
will be the scene of blood and carnage.
The officers of our provisional government have nobly performed their duty.
None can doubt the readiness of the patriotic sons of the west to offer thdr
personal services in defence of a cause so righteous. So it now rests with you,
gentlemen, to say whether our rights and our fire-sides shall be defended, or
not.
Hoping that none will be found to fialter in so high and so sacred a dntj,ve
beg leave, gentlemen, to subscribe ourselves,
Your Benrants and fellow-citizens,
Jkbsb Applegati,
A. L. LovEJOT,
Geo. L. Curry,
ComtmtioMn.
A similar letter had been addressed to the Hudson's
Bay Company, and to the Methodist mission. From each
of these sources such assistance was obtained as enableij
the colony to arm and equip the first regiment of Oregon
riflemen, which in the month of January proceeded to the
Cayuse country. The amount raised, however, was very
small, being less than five thousand dollars, and it became
imperatively necessary that the government of the United
States should be called upon to extend its aid and protec-
tion to the loyal but distressed young territory.
In view of this necessity it was resolved in the leg-
islature to send a messenger to carry the intelligence
of the massacre to Gov. Mason of California, and through
him to the commander of the United States squadron
in the Pacific, that a vessel of war might be sent into
MEEK APPOINTED MESSENQEK TO THE UNITED STATES. 365
the Columbia River, and arms and ammunition borrowed
for the present emergency, from the neai'est arsenal.
For this <luty was chosen Jesse Applegate, Esq., a gentle-
man who combined in his character and person the ability
of the statesman with the sagacity and strength of the
pioneer. Mr. Applegate, with a small party of brave
men, set out in midwinter to cross the mountains into Cal-
ifornia, but such was the depth of snow they encountered
that traveling became impossible, even after abandoning
their horses, and they were compelled to return.
The messenger elected to proceed to the United States
was Joseph L. Meek, whose Rocky Mountain experiences
eminently fitted him to encounter the dangers of such a
winter journey, and whose manliness, firmness, and ready
wit stood him instead of statesmanship.
On the 17th December Meek resigned his seat in the
House in order to prepare for the discharge of his duty as
messenger to the United States. On the 4th of January,
armed with his credentials from the Oregon legislature,
and bearing dispatches from that body and the Governor
to the President, he at length set out on the long and per-
ilous expedition, having for traveling companions Mr.
John Owens, and Mr. George Ebbarts — the latter having
formerly been a Rocky Mountain man, like himself
At the Dalles they found the first regiment of Oregon
Riflemen, under Major Lee, of the newly created army of
Oregon. From the reports which the Dalles ladians
brought in of the hostility of the Indians beyond the Des
Chutes River it was thought best not to proceed before
the arrival of the remainder of the army, when all the
forces would proceed at once to "Waiilatpu. Ov .ig to
various delays, the army, consisting of about five hundred
men, under Colonel Gilliam, did not reach *\e Dalles until
late in January, when the troops proceeded at once to the
seat of war.
366
THE ARMY MARCHES TO WAIILATPU.
The reports concerning the warlike disposition of the
Indians proved to be correct. Already, the Wascopams
or Dalles Indians had begun robbing the mission at that
place, when Colonel Lee's arrival among them with troops
had compelled them to return the stolen property. As
the army advanced they found that all the tribes above
the Dalles were holding themselves prepared for hostilities.
At Well Springs, beyond the Des Chutes River, they were
met by a body of about six hundred Indians to whom they
gave battle, soon dispersing them, the superior arms and
equipments of the whites tending to render timid those
tribes yet unaccustomed to so superior an enemy. From
thence to Waiilatpu the course of the army was unob-
structed.
In the meantime the captives had been given up to the
Hudson's Bay Company, and full particulars of the massa-
cre were obtained by the army, with all the subsequent
abuses and atrocities suffered by the prisoners. The hor-
rible details were not calculated to soften the first bitterness
of hatred which had animated the volunteers on going
into the field. Nor was the appearance of an armed force
in their midst likely to allay the hostile feelings with
which other causes had inspired the Indians. Had not the
captives already been removed out of the country, no
influence, not even that of the Hudson's Bay Company,
could have prevailed to get them out of the power of their
captors then. Indeed, in order to treat with the Cayuses
in the first place, Mr. Ogden had* been obliged to promise
peace to the Indians, and now they found instead of peace,
every preparation for war. However, as the army took
no immediate action, but only remained in their country to
await the appearance of the commissioners appointed by
the legislature of Oregon to hold a council ynth the chiefs
of the various tribes, the Cayuses were forced to observe
ILATPU.
3 disposition of the
ly, the Wascopams
the mission at that
ig them with troops
)len property. As
il the tribes above
pared for hostilities.
es River, they were
iians to whom they
superior arms and
'ender timid those
• an enemy. From
} army was unob-
sen given up to the
mlars of the massa-
all the subsequent
risoners. The hor-
n the first bitterness
olunteers on going
of an armed force
stile feelings with
ians. Had not the
)f the country, no
n's Bay Company,
the power of their
with the Cayuses
obliged to promise
d instead of peace,
as the army took
in their country to
ners appointed by
icil T/ith the chiefs
I for jed to observe
MEEK ESCORTED TO THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.
367
the outward semblance of amity while these councils were
pending.
Arrived at Waiilatpu, the friends and acquaintances of
Dr. Whitman wt.re shocked to find that the remains of the
victims were still unburied, although a little earth had
been thrown over them. Meek, to whom, ever since his
meeting with her in the train of the fur-trader, Mrs. Whit-
man had seemed all that was noble and captivating, had
the melancholy satisfaction of bestowing, with others, the
last sad rite of burial upon such portions of her once fair
person as murder and the wolves had not destroyed. Some
tresses of golden hair were severed from the brow so ter-
ribly disfigured, to be given to her friends in the Walla-
met as a last and only memorial. Among the State docu-
ments at Salem, Oregon, may still be seen one of these
relics of the Waiilatpu tragedy.
Not only ha 1 Meek lo discover and inter the remains of
Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, but also of his little girl, who was
being educated at the mission, with a daughter of his
former leader, Bridger.
This sad duty performed, he immediately set out, escorted
by a company of one hundred men under Adjutant Wil-
cox, who accompanied him as far as the foot of the Blue
Mountains. Here the companies separated, and Meek
went on his way to Washington.
24
Hi
I '-In ■
1 1; ij I
■■•i]
CHAPTER XXXIV.
1848. Mbek's party now consisted of himself, Ebbarts.
Owens, and four men, who being desirous of returning to
the States took this opportunity. However, as the snow
proved to be very deep on the Blue Mountains, and the
cold severe, two of these four volunteers became discour-
a<^ed and concluded to remain at Fort Boise, where was a
small trading t>ost of the Hudson's Ba^ Company.
In order to avoid trouble with the Indians he might
meet on the western side of the Rocky mountains, Meek
had adopted the red belt and Canadian cap of the employees
of the Hudson's Bay Company ; and to this precaution
was owing the fact of his safe passage through the coun-
try now all infected with hostility caught from the Cayuses.
About three days' travel beyond Fort Boise, the party
met a village of Bannack Indians, who at once made war-
like demonstrations ; but on seeing Meek's costume, and
receiving an invitation to hold a ' talk', desisted, and re-
cei^ ed the travelers in a friendly manner. Meek informed
the chief, with all the gravity which had won for him the
name of ^^shiam shiispusia''^ among the Crows in former
years, that he wls going on the business of the Hudson's
Bay Company to Fort Hall ; and that Thomas McKay was
a day's march behind with a large trading party, and
plenty of goods. On the receipt of this good news, the
chief ordered his braves to fall back, and permit the party
to pass. Yet, fearing the deception might be discovered,
«£»■"•
DEEP SNOWS — THE HORSES ABANDONED.
8G9
they thought it prudent to travel day and night until they
reached Fort Hall.
At this post of the Hudson's Bay Compai.y, in charge
of Mr. Grant, they were kindly received, and stopped for
a few hours of rest. Mr. Grant being absent, his wife pro-
vided liberally for the refreshment of the p.; > 1/, who were
fflad to find themselvee even for a short interval under a
roof, beside a fire and partaking of freshly cooked food.
But they permitted themselves no unnecessary delay. Be-
fore night they were once more on their way, though
anow had now commenced to fall afresh, rendering the
traveling very difficult. For two days they struggled on,
their horses floundering in the soft drifts, until further
progress in that manner became impossible. The only al-
ternative left was to abandon their horses and proceed on
snow-shoes, which were readily constructed out of willow
sticks.
Taking only a blanket and their rifles, and leaving the
animals to find their w.iy back to Fort Hall, the little party
puslied on. Meek was now on familiar ground, and the
old mountain spirit which had once enabled him to endifre
hunger, cold, and fatigue without murmuring, possessed
him now. It was not without a certain sense of enjoy-
ment that he found himself reduced to the necessity of
shooting a couple of pole-cats to furnish a supper for him-
self and party. How long the enjoyment of feeling want
would have lasted is uncertain, but probably only long
(enough to whet the appetite for plenty.
To such a point had the appetites of all the party been
wlietted, when, after several days of scarcity and toil, fol-
lowed by nights of emptiness and cold, Meek had the
agreeable surprise of falling in with an old mountain com-
rade on the identical ground of many a former adventure,
the head-waters of Bear River. This man, whom Meek
I
I
370
PEG-LEG SMITH — A MOUNTAIN REVEL.
m 'h
was delighted to meet, was Peg-leg Smith, one of the
most famous of many well-known mountain-men. He
was engaged in herding cattle in the valley of Thomas'
Fork, where the tall grass was not quite buried under
snow, and had with him a party of ten men.
Meek was as cordially received by his former comrade
as the unbounded hospitality of mountain manners ren-
dered it certain he would be. A fat cow was immediately
sacrificed, which, though not buiFalo meat, as in former i
times it would have been, was very good beef, and fur-
nished a luxurious repast to the pole-cat eaters of the
last several days. Smith's camp did not lack the domes-
tic element of women and chidren, any more than had
the trapper's camps in the flush times of the fur-trade.
Therefore, seeing that the meeting was most joyful, and
full of reminiscences of former winter camps, Smith
thought to celebrate the occasion by a grand entertain-
ment. Accordingly, after a great deal of roast beef had
been disposed of, a dance was called for, in which white
men and Indian women joined with far more mirth and
jollity than grace or ceremony. Thus passed some hours
of the night, the bearer of dispatches seizing, in true
mountain style, the jJassing moment's pleasure, so long as
it did not interfere with the punctilious discharge of his
duty. And to the honor of our hero be it said, nothing
was ever allowed to interfere with that.
Refreshed and provided with rations for a couple of
days, the party started on again next morning, still on
snow-shoes, and traveled up Bear River to the head- waters
of Green River, crossing from the Muddy fork over to
Fort Bridger, where they arrived very much fatigued but
quite well in little more than three days' travel. Here
again it was Meek's good fortune to meet with his former
leader, Bridger, to whom he related what had befallen
■; 1
>i; M
MEETING WITH AN OLD LEADER.
371
liiiii since turning pioneer. The meeting was joyful on
both sides, clouded only by the remembrance of what had
brought it about, and the reflection that both had a per-
sonal wrong to avenge in bringing about the punishment
of the Cayuse murderers.
Once more Meek's party were generously fed, and fur-
nished with such provisions as they could carry about
their persons. In addition to this, Bridger presented
them with four good mules, by which means the travelers
were mounted four at a time, while the fifth took exercise
(jn foot ; so that by riding or walking, turn about, they
were enabled to get on very well as far as the South Pass.
Here again for some distance the snow was very deep,
and two of their mules were lost in it. Their course lay
down the Sweetwater River, past many familiar hunting
and camping grounds, to the Platte River. Owing to the
deep snows, game was very scarce, and a long day of t'^il
was frequently closed by a supperless sleep under shelter
of some rock or bank, with only a blanket for cover. At
Red Buttes they were so fortunate as to find and kill a
single buffalo, which, separated from the distant herd, was
left by Providence in the path of the famished travelers.
On reaching the Platte River they found the traveling
improved, as well as the supply of game, and proceeded
with less difficulty as far as Fort Laramie, a trading post
in charge of a French trader nameti Papillion. Here
again fresh mules were obtained, and the little party
treated in the most hospitable manner. In parting from
liis entertainer, Meek was favored with this brief counsel :
"There is a village of Sioux, of about six hundred
lodges, a hundred miles from here. Your course will
bring you to it. Look out for yourself, and don't make
a Gray muss of it!" — which latter clause referred to the
I ^:::'r
f
372
PASSING THE SIOUX VILLAGE.
affair of 1837, when the Sioux had killed the Indian es-
cort of Mr. Gray. • '
" When the party arrived at Ash Hollow, which they
meant to have passed in the night, on account of the
Sioux village, the snow was again falling so thickly that
the party had not perceived their nearness to the village
until they were fairly in the midst of it. It was now no
safer to retreat than to proceed ; and after a moment's
consultation, the word was given to keep on. In tru:h,
Meek thought it doubtful whether the Sioux would trouble
themselves to come out in such a tempest, and if they did
so, that the blinding snow-fall was rather in his f /■or.
Thus reasoning, he was forcing his mule through the
drifts as rapidly as the poor worried animal could make
its way, when a head was protruded from a lodge door,
and "Hallo, Major!" greeted his ear in an accent not
altogether English.
On being thus accosted, the party came to a halt, and
Meek was invited to enter the lodge, with his friends.
His host on this occasion was a French troder named Le
Bean, who, after offering the hospitalities of the lodge,
and learning who were his guests, offered to accompany
the party a few miles on its way. This he did, saying by
way of explanation of this act of courtesy, " The Sioux
are a bad people ; I thought it best to see you safe out
of the village." Receiving the thanks of the travelers,
he turned back at night-fall, and they continued on all
night without stopping to camp, going some distance to
the south of their course before turning east again, in
order to avoid any possible pursuers.
Without further adventures, and by dint of almost con-
stant travel, the party arrived at St. Joseph, Mo., in
safety, in a little over two months, from Portland, Oregon.
Soon afterwards, when the circumstances of this journey
"the quickest trip yet.'
878
became known, a steamboat built for the Missouri River
trade was christened the Joseph L. Meelc^ and bore for a
motto, on her pilot-house, "The quickest trip yet," in
reference both to Meek's overland journey and her own
steaming qualities.
As Meek approached the settlements, and knew that he
must soon be thrown into society of the highest official
grade, and be subjected to such ordeals as he dreaded far
more than Indian fighting, or even traveling express
across a continent of snow, the subject of how he was to
behave in these new and trying positions very frequently
occurred to him. He, an uneducated man, trained to
mountain life and manners, without money, or even
clothes, with nothing to depend on but the importance of
his mission and his own mother wit, he felt far more
keenly than his careless appearance would suggest, the
difficulties and awkwardness of his position.
"I thought a great deal about it," confesses the Col.
Joseph L. Meek of to-day, " and I finally concluded that
as I had never tried to act like anybody but myself, I
would not make myself a fool by beginning to ape other
folks now. So I said, ' Joe Meek you always have been,
and Joe Meek you shall remain ; go ahead, Joe Meek !' "
In fact, it would have been rather difficult putting on
fine gentleman airs, in that old worn-out hunting suit of
his, and with not a dollar to bless himself. On the con-
trary, it needed just the devil-may-care temper which
naturally belonged to our hero, to carry him through the
remainder of his journey to Washington. To be hungry,
ill-clad, dirty, and penniless, is sufficient in itself for the
subduing of most spirits ; how it affiscted the temper of
the messenger from Or.egon we shall now learn.
When the weary little party arrived in St. Joseph, they
repaired to a hotel, and Meek requested that a meal
;<*
r > '
374
RECEPTION AT ST. JOSEPH.
i } :;'!
n '!*
should be served for all, but frankly confessing that they
had no money to pay. The landlord, however, declined
furnisliing guests of his style upon such terms, and our
travelers were forced to go into camp below the town.
Meek now bethought himself of his letters of introduc-
tion. It chanced that he had one from two young men
among the Oregon volunteers, to their father in St. Jo-
seph. Stopping a negro who was passing his camp, he
inquired whether such a gentleman was known to him ;
and on learning that he was, succeeded in inducing the
negro to deliver the letter from his sons.
This movement proved successful. In a short space of
time the gentleman presented himself, and learning the
situation of the party, provided generously for their pres-
ent wants, and promised any assistance which might be
required in future. Meek, however, chose to accept only
that which was imperatively needed, namely, something
to eat, and transportation to some point on the river
where he could take a steamer for St. Louis. A portion
of his party chose to remain in St. Joseph, and a portion
accompanied him as far as Independence, whither this
same St. Joseph gentleman conveyed them in his carriage.
While Meek was stopping at Independence, he was
recognized by a sister, whom he had not seen for nineteen
years ; who, marrying and emigrating from Virginia, had
settled on the frontier of Missouri. But he gave himself
no time for family reunion and gossip. A' steamboat that
had been frozen up in the ice all winter, was just about
starting for St. Louis, and on board of this he went,, with
an introduction to the captain, which secured for him
every privilege the boat afforded, together with the kind-
est attention of its officers.
When the steamer arrived in St. Louis, by one of those
fortuitous circumstances so common in our hero's career,
m\ >
p^
ARRIVAL AT ST. LOUia
375
he Avas met at the landing by Campbell, a Rocky Moun-
tain trader who had formerly belonged to the St. Louis
Company. This meeting relieved him of any care about
his night's entertainment in St. Louis, and it also had an-
other eifect — that of relieving him of any further care
about the remainder of his journey ; for, after hearing
Meek's story of the position of affairs in Oregon and his
errand to the United States, Campbell had given the
same to the newspaper reporters, and Meek, like Byron,
waked up next morning to find himself famous.
Having telegraphed to Washington, and received the
President's order to come on, the previous evening, our
hero wended his way to the levee the morning after hia
MEEK A8 STEAMBOAT KtlNNER.
OS career,
arrival in St. Louis. There were two steamers lying side
by side, both up for Pittsburg, with runners for each.
S76
THE VOLUNTEER STEAMBOAT RUNNER.
III
i I 'I!
striving to outdo each other in securing passengers. A
bright thought ocrurred to the moneyless envoy — he
would earn his passage !
Walking on board one of the boats, which bore the
name of The Declaration, himself a figure which attracted
all eyes by his size and outlandish dress, he mounted to
the hurricane deck and began to horrangue the crowd
upon the levee, in the voice of a Stentor :
" This way, gentlemen, if you please. Come right on
board the Declaration. I am the man from Oregon, with
■dispatches to the President of these United States, that
jou all read about in this morning's paper. Come on
board, ladies and gentlemen, if you want to hear the news
from Oregon. I've just come across the plains, two
months from the Columbia River, where the Injuns are
killing your missionaries. Those passengers who come
aboard the Declaration shall hear all about it before they
get to Pittsburg. Don't stop thar, looking at my old
wolf-skin cap, but just come aboard, and hear what I've
got to tell!" •
The novelty of this sort of solicitation operated cap-
itally. Many persons crowded on board the Declaration
•only to get a closer look at this picturesque personage
who invited them, and many more because they were re-
ally interested to know the news from the far oflf young
territory which had fallen into trouble. So it chanced
that the Declaration was inconveniently crowded on this
particular morning.
After the boat had got under way, the captain ap-
proached his roughest looking cabin passenger and in-
quired in a low tone of voice if he were really and truly
the messenger from Oregon.
" " Thar's what I've got to show for it ;" answered Meek,
producing his papers.
THE STAGE AGENT AT WHEELING.
87r
"■ Well, all I have to say is, Mr. Meek, that you are the
best runner this boat ever hud ; and you are welcome to
your passage ticket, and anything you desire besides."
Finding that his bright thought had succeeded so well,
Meck's spirit rose with the occasion, and the passengers
had no reason to complain that he had not kept his word.
Before he reached Wheeling his popularity was immense,
notwithstanding the condition of his wardrobe. At Cin-
cinnati he had time to present a letter to the celebrated
Doctor , who gave him another, which proved to be
an ' open sesame ' wherever he went thereafter.
On the morning of his arrival in Wheeling it happened
that the stage which then earned passengers to Cumber-
laud, where they took the train for Washington, had al-
ready departed. Elated by his previous good fortune our
ragged hero resolved not to be delayed by so trivial a
circumstance ; but walking pompously into the stage office
inquired, with an air which must have smacked strongly
of the mock-heroic, if he " could have a stage for Cum-
berland?"
The nicely dressed, dignified elderly gentleman who
managed the business of the office, regarded the man who
proffered this modest request for a moment in motionless
silence, then slowly raising the spectacles over his eyes to
a position on his forehead, finished his survey with unas-
sisted vision. Somewhat impressed by the manner in
which Meek bore this scrutiny, he ended by demanding
" who are you ?"
Tickled by the absurdity of the tableau they were en-
acting. Meek straightened himself up to his six feet two,
and replied with an air of superb self assurance —
" I am Envoy extraordinary and minister plenipotenti-
ary from the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the
United States I"
If
1
378
MEEK ABTONIBHES THE NATIVES.
After a pause in which the old gentleman seemed to be
recovering from some great surprise, he requested to see
the credentials of this extraordinary envoy. Still more
surprised he seemed on discovering for himself that the
personage before him was really a messenger from Oregon
to the government of the United States. But the effect
was magical. In a moment the bell- rope was pulled, and
in an incredibly short space of time a coach stood at the
door ready to convey the waiting messenger on his way
to Washington.
In the meantime in a conversation with the stage agent,
Mock had explained more fully the circumstances of his
mission, and the agent had become much interested. On
parting. Meek received a ticket to the Relay House, with
many expressions of regret from the agent that he could
ticket him no farther.
" But it is all the same," said ho ; " you are sure to go
through."
" Or run a train off the track," rejoined Meek, as he
was bowed out of the office
It happened that therfr were some other passengers
waiting to take the first stoge, and they crowded into this
one, glad of the unexpcoei opportunity, but wondering
at the queer looking passenger to whom the agent was so
polite. This scarcely concealed curiosity was all that was
needed to stimulate the mad-cap spirits of our so far " con-
quering hero." Putting his head out of the window just
at the moment of starting, he electrified everybody,
horses included, by the utterance of a war-whoop and yell
that would have done credit to a wild Camanche. Satis-
fied with the speed to which this demoniac noise had ex-
cited the driver's prancing steeds, he quietly ensconced
himself in his corner of the coach and Waited for his fel-
low passengers to recover from their stunned sensations,
■ ^\
^liiy
THE VICTIMIZED CONDUCTOR.
8?0
Wlicn thoir complete recovery had been effected, there
followed the usual questioning and explanations, which
on(l(Ml in the inevitable lionizing that was so much to the
t«.ste of this sensational individual. ' . • .. '
On the cars at Cumberland, and at the eating-houses,
the messenger from Oregon kept up his sensational char-
acter, indulging in alternate fits of mountain manners, and
&(T(dn assuming a disproportionate amount of grandeur ;
but in either view prov.iig himself very amusing. By the
time the train reached the Relay House, many of the pas-
sengers had become acquainted with Meek, and were pre-
pared to understand and enjoy each new phase of his
many-sided comicality.
The ticket with which the stage agent presented him,
dead-headed him only to this point. Here again he must
make his poverty a jest, and joke himself through to
Washington. Accordingly when the conductor came
through the car in which he, with several of his new
acquaintances were sitting, demanding tickets, he was
obliged to tap his blanketed passenger on the shoulder
to attract his attention to the " ticket, sir !"
" Ha ho any me ca^ hanch ?" said Meek, starting up
and addressing him in the Snake tongue.
"Ticket, sir!" repeated the conductor, staring.
" Ka hum pa^ hanch ?" returned Meek, assuming a look
which indicated that English was as puzzling to him, as
Snake to other people.
Finding that his time would be wasted on this singular
passenger, the conductor went on through the train ; re-
turning after a time with a fresh demand for his ticket. '
But Meek sustained his character admirably, and it was
only through the excessive amusement of the passengers
that the conductor suspected that Ije was being made the
subject of a practical joke. At this stage of affairs it was
380
ARRIVAL AT WASHINGTON
.I4h
: '!. i«
Ill ; ■ i
privately explained to him who and what his waggish cus-
tomer was, and tickets were no more mentioned during
the journey.
On the arrival of the train at Washington, the heart of
our hero became for a brief moment of time " very little."
He felt that the importance - f his mission demanded some
dignity of appearance — some conformity to established
rules and precedents. But of the latter he knew abso-
lutely nothing ; and concerning the former, he realized
the absu7'dity of a dignitary clothed in blankets and a
wolf-skin cap. ' Joe Meek I must remain,' said he to him-
self, as he stepped out of the train, and glanced aloug the
platform at the crowd of porters with the names of their
hotels on their hat-bands. Learning from inquiry that
Coleman's was the most fashionable place, he decided that
to Coleman's he would go, judging correctly that it T^as
be^t to show no littleness of heart even in the matter o£
hotels.
«■■,) ) . v; ! ■'
»'il'
CHAPTER XXXy.
1848. When Meek arrived at Coleman's it vas the
dinner hour, and following the crowd to the dining saloon,
he took the first seat he came to, not w>^out being very-
much stared at. He had taken his cue and the staring
was not unexpected, consequently not so embarrassing as
it might otherwise have been. A bill of fare was laid be-
side his plate. Turning to the colored waiter who placed
it there, he startled him first by inquiring in a low growl-
ing voice —
"What's that boy?"
"Bill of fare, sah," replied the "boy," who recognized
the Southerner in the use of that one word.
"Read!" growled Meek again. "The people in my
country can't read."
Though taken by surprise, the waiter, politely obedient,
proceeded to enumerate the courses on the bill of fare.
When he came to game
"Stop thar, boy!" commanded Meek, "what kind of
game?"
"Small game, sah."
"Fetch me a piece of antelope," leaning back m his
chair with a look of satisfaction on his face.
*• Got none of that sah ; don't know what that ar' sah."
"Don't know!" with a look of pretended surprise. "In
my country antelope and deer ar' small gan.e ; bear and
buffalo ar' large game. I reckon if you haven't got ona
S82
THE MESSENGER CREATES A SEN8\TI0N.
Hf
you havn't got the other, either. In that case you may
fetch mo some beef."
The waiter disappeared grinning, and soon returned with
the customary thin and small cut, v^bich Meek eyed at first
contemptuously, and then accepting it iij the light of «
sample swallowed it at two mouthfuls, returning his plate
to the waiter with an appro^•ing smile, and saying louC
enough to be overheard by a scoi'e of people
" Boy, that will do. Fetch me about four pounds of the
same kind."
By this time the blanketed beef-eater was the recipient
of general attention, and the "boy" who served him com-
prehending with that quickness which distinguishes ser-
vants, that he had no ordinary backwoodsman to deal with,
was air the time on the alert to make himself useful. Peo-
ple stared, then smiled, then asked each other "who is it?"
loud enough for the stranger to hear. Meek looked nei-
ther to the right r or to the left, pretending not to hear
the whispering. When he had finished his beef, he again
addressed himself to the attentive "boy."
" That's better meat than the old mule I eat in t^"^ moun-
tains."
Upon this remark the whispering became more general,
and louder, and smiles more frequent.
*' What have you got to drink, boy ?" continued Meek,
still unconscious. " Isn't there a sort of wine callt ' -
some kind of pain ?"
" Champagne, sah ?"
*' That's the stuif, I reckon ; bring me some."
While Meek drank his champagne, with an occaalonrl
aside to his faithful attendant, people laug'hed ai. ' ren-
dered " who the devil it was." At length, tiaving il . ^ed
his wine, and overhearing many open inquiries as to his
identity, the hero of many bear-fights slowly arose, and
RECOGNIZED BY SENATOR UNDERWOOD.
888
addressing the comprny through the before-mentioned
" boy," oaid :
" You want to know who I am ?"
" If you please, sah ; yes, if you please, sah, for the
sake of these gentlemen present," replied the "boy," an-
swering for the company.
"Wall then," proclaimed Meek with a grandiloquent
air quite at variance with his blanket coat and unkempt
hair, yet which displayed his fine person to advantage, "I
am Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from .
the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the United
States!"
With that he turned and strode from the room. He
had not proceeded far, however, before he was overtaken
by a party of gentlemen in pursuit. Senator Underwood
of Kentucky immediately introduced himself, calling the
envoy by name, for the dispatch from St. Louis had pre-
par' i lutv President and the Senate for Meek's appearance
ir ' .>i/'gton, though it had not advised them of his
SiyiC: wf
jS3 and address. Other gentlemen were intro-
duced, i»,;v\ jaestions followed questions in rapid succes-
sion.
When curiosity was somewhat abated, Meek e: .pressed
a wish to see the President without delay. To Under-
wood's question p i to whether he did not wish to make his
toilet before visiting the White House, his reply was,
' isiuess first, fli"d toilet afterwards."
'>it." p-aiu Jnderwood, " even your business can wait
loLi^ efxough for that."
"No, that's your mistake, Senator, and I'll tell you why:
I can't dress, for two reasons, both good ones. I've not
got a cent of money, nor a second suit of clothes."
The generous Kentuckian offered to remove the first of
S6
Is . '■
li ; I:
ill
1.4
! ;:i i
884
VISIT TO THE WHITE HOUSE.
the objections on the spot, but Meek declined. "I'll see
the President first, and hear what he has to say about my
mission." Then calling a coach from the stand, he sprang
into it, ans" "pring the driver's question of where he would
be taken, v ' )ther inquiry.
" Whar she a man of my style want to go? — to the
White House, of course !" and so was driven away amid
the general laughter of the gentlemen in the portico at
Coleman's, who had rather doubted his intention to pay
his respects to the President in his dirty blankets.
He was admitted to the Presidential mansion by a mu-
latto of about his own age, with whom he remembered
playing when a lad, for it must be remembered that the
Meeks and Polks were related, and this servant had grown
up in the family. On inquiring if he could see the Presi-
dent, he was directed to the office of the private Secretary,
Knox Walker, also a relative of Meek's on the mother's
side.
On entering he found the room filled with gentlemen
waiting to see the President, each when his turn to be ad-
mitted should arrive. The Secretary sat reading a paper,
over the top of v/hich he glanced but once at the new
comer, to ask him to be seated. But Meek was not in the
humor for sitting. He had not traveled express for more
than two months, in storm and cold, on foot and on horse-
back, by day and by night, with or without food, as it
chanced, to sit down quietly now and wait. So he took a
few turns up and down the room, and seeing that the
Secretary glanced at him a little curiously, stopped and
said:
" I should like to see the President immediately. Just
tell him if you please that there is a gentleman from Ore-
gon waiting to see him on very important business."
INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT POLK.
385
At the word Oregon^ the Secretary sprang up, dashed
his paper to the ground, and crying out "Uncle Joe!"
came forward with both hands extended to greet his long
lost relative.
"Take care, Knox! don't come too close," said Meek
stepping back, "I'm ragged, dirty, and — ^lousy."
"TAKE CARE, KNOX.'
But Walker seized his cousin's hand, without seeming
fear of the conseouences, and for a few moments there
was an animated exchange of questions and ansWers, which
Meek at last interrupted to repeat his request to be admit-
ted to the President without delay. Several times the Sec-
retary turned to leave the room, but as often came back
with some fresh inquiry, until Meek fairly refused to say
another word, until he had delivered his dispatches.
When once the Secretary got away he soon returned
with a request from the President for the appearance of
the Oregon messenger, all jther visitors being dismissed
for that day. Polk's reception proved as cordial as Walk-
■i 'i
i !
im
li^l
in ;
I'm
[!l
I - 1 '-
386 INTRODUCED TO THE LADIES — BADLY FRIGHTENED.
er's had been. He seized the hand of his newly found
relative, and welcomed him in his own name, as well as
that of messenger from the distant, much loved, and long
neglected Oregon. The interview lasted for a couple of
hours. Oregon aflPairs and family affairs were talked over
together; the President promising to do all for Oregon
that he could do ; at the same time he bade Meek make
himself at home in the Presidential mansion, with true
southern hospitality.
But Meek, although he had carried off his poverty and
all his deficiencies in so brave a style hitherto, felt his as-
surance leaving him, when, his errand performed, he stood)
in the presence of rank and elegance, a mere mountain-
man in ragged blankets, whose only wealth consisted of
an order for fivf hundred dollars on the Methodist mission
in New York, unavailable for present emergencies. And
so he declined the hospitalities of the White House, say-
ing he " could make himself at home in an Indian wigwam
in Oregon, or among the Rocky Mountains, but in the
residence of the chief magistrate of a great nation, he felt
out of place, and ill at ease."
Polk, however, would listen to no refusal, and still fur-
ther abashed his Oregon cousin by sending for Mrs. Polk
and Mrs. Walker, to make his acquaintance. Says Meek:
"When I heard the silks rustling in the passage, I felt
more frightened than if a hundred Blackfeet had whooped
in my ear. A mist came over my eyes, and when Mrs.
Polk spoke to me I couldn't think of anything to say in
return."
But the ladies were so kind and courteous that he soon
began to see a little, though not quite plainly while their
visit lasted. Before the interview with the President and
his family was ended, the poverty of the Oregon envoy
became knoT.n, which led to the immediate supplying of
THE TWO OREGON REPRESENTATIVES,
887
all his wants. Major Polk was called in and introduced ;
and to him was deputed the bu&iness of seeing Meek
"got up" in n style creditable to himiself and his relations.
Meek avers that when he had gone through the hands of
the barber and tailor, and surveyed himself in a full length
mirror, he was at first rather embarrassed, being under the
impression that he was being introduced to a fashionable
and decidedly good-looking gentleman, before whose over,
powering style he was disposed to shrink, with the old fa-
miliar feeling of being in blanketa
But Meek was not the sort of man to be long in getting
used to a situation however novel or difficult. In a very
short time he was au fait in the customs of the capital.
His perfect frankness led people to laugh at his errors as
eccentricities ; his good looks and natural bonhomie pro-
cured him plenty of admirers ; while his position at the
White House caused him to be envied and lionized at
once.
On the day following his arrival the President sent in a
message to Congress accompanied by the memorial fiom.
the Oregon legislature and other documents appertaining
to the Oregon cause. Meek was introduced to Benton,
Oregon's indefatigable friend, and received from him the
kindest treatment ; also to Dallas, President of the Senate ;
Douglas, Fremont, Gen. Houston, and all the men who
had identified themselves with the interests of the West.
It should be stated that only a short time previous
to the Waiilatpu massacre a delegate had left Oregon for
Washington, by ship around Cape Horn, who had been
accredited by the governor of the colony only, and that
the legislature had subsequently passed resolutions expres-
sive of their disapproval of "secret factious," by which
was meant the mission party, whose delegate Mr. Thorn-
ton was.
!? 11 !
it;
388
THE OREGON BILL IN THE SENATE.
It SO happened that, by reason of the commander of the
Portsmouth having assumed it to be a duty to convey Mr.
Thornton from La Paz, where through the infidelity of the
Captain of the Whitton^ he was stranded, he was enabled
to reach the States early in the Spring, arriving in fact a
week or two before Meek reached Washington. Thus
Oregon had two representatives, although not entitled to
any : nor had either a right to a seat in either House ; yet
to one this courtesy was granted, while the two together
controlled more powerful influences than were ever before
or since brought to bear on the fate of any single terri-
tory of the United States. While Mr. Thornton sat among
Senators as a sort of consulting member or referee, but
without a vote ; Meek had the private ear of the Presi-
dent, and mingled freely among members of both Houses,
in a social character, thereby exercising a more immediate
influence than his more learned coadjutor.
In the meantime our hero was making the most of his
advantages. He went to dinners and champagne suppers,
besides giving an occasional one of the latter. At the
presidential levees he made himself agreeable to witty and
distinguished ladies, answering innumerable questions
about Oregon and Indians, generally with a veil of reserve
between himself and the questioner whenever the inqui-
ries became, as they sometimes would, disagreeably search-
ing. Again the spirit of perversity and mischief led him
to make his answers so very direct as to startle or bewilder
the questioner.
On one occasion a lady with whom he was promenading
a drawing-room at some Senator's reception, admiring his
handsome physique perhaps, and wondering if any woman
owned it, Anally ventured the question — was he married?
" Yes, indeed," answered Meek, with emphasis, " I have
a wife and several children.."
KIT CABSON THE CONTINGENT FUND.
389
*'0h dear," exclaimed the lady, "I should think your
wife would be so afraid of the Indians!"
"Afraid of the Indians!" exclaimed Meek in his turn;
" why, madam, she is an Indian herself!"
No further remarks on the subject were ventured that
evening ; and it is doubtful if the lady did not take his
answer as a rebuke to her curiosity rather than the plain
truth that it was.
Meek found his old comrade, Kit Carson, in Washington,
staying with Fromont at the house of Senator Benton.
Kit, who had left the mountains as poor as any other of
the mountain-men, had no resource at that time except
the pay furnished by Fremont for his services as guide and
explorer in the California and Oregon expeditions ; where,
in fact, it was Carson and not Fremont who deserved fame
as a path-finder. However that may be, Carson had cs
little money as men of his class usually have, and needed
it as much. So long as Meek's purse was supplied, as it
generally was, by some member of the family at the White
House, Carson could borrow from him. But one being
quite as careless of money as the other, they were some-
times both out of pocket at the same time. In that case
the conversation was apt to take a turn like this :
Carson. Meek, let me have some money, can't you ?
Meek I hav 'nt got any money. Kit.
Carson. Go and get some.
Meek it, whar am I to get money from ?
Carson. Try the "contingent fund," can't you?
Truth to tell the contingent fund was made to pay for
a good many things not properly chargeable to the neces-
sary expenditures of "Envoy Extraordinary" like our
friend from Oregon.
The favoritism with which our hero was everywnere re-
ceived was something remarkable, even when all the cir-
«,':i ■
390
GRAND RECEPTION AT BALTIMORB.
i t
h\
cumstaiices of his relationship to the chief magistrate, and
the popularity of the Oregon question were considered.
Doubtless the novelty of having a bear-fighting and In-
dian-fighting Rocky Mountain man to lionize, was one
great secret of the furore which greeted him wherever he
went ; but even that fails to account fully for the enthu-
siasm he awakened, since mount«,in-men had began to be
pretty well known and understood, from the journal of
Fremont and other explorers. It could only have been
the social genius of the man which enabled him to over-
come the impediments of lack of education, and the asso-
ciations of half a lifetime. But whatever was the fortu-
nate cause of his success, he enjoyed it to the full. He
took excursions about the country in all directions,
petted and spoiled like any "curled darling" instead of
the six-foot-two Rocky Mountain trapper that he was.
In June he received an invitation to Baltimore, tender-
ed by the city council, and waF> received by that body
with the mayor at its head, in whose carriage he was con-
veyed to Monument Square, to be welcomed by a thou-
sand ladies, smiling and showering roses upon him as he
passed. And kissing the roses because he could not kiss
the ladies, he bowed and smiled himself past the festive
groups waiting to receive the messenger from Oregon.
Music, dining, and the parade usual to such occasions
distinguished this day, which Meek declares to have been
the proudest of his life ; not denying that the beauty of
the Baltimore ladies contributed chiefly to produce that
impression.
On the fourth of July, Polk laid the corner stone of the
National Monument. The occasion was celebrated with
great eclat^ the address being delivered by Winthrop, th^
military display, and the fire-works in ihe evening being
unusually fine. In the procession General Scott and stafl
igistrate, and
3 considered,
iting and In-
ize, was one
wherever he
'or the enthu-
began to be
le journal of
ly have been
him to over-
and the asso-
fas the fortu-
the full. He
11 directions,
5 " instead of
it he was.
more, tender-
by that body
e he was con-
(d by a thou-
OQ him as he
jould not kiss
st the festive
rom Oregon,
ich occasions
to have been
he beauty of
produce that
r stone of the
lebrated with
iVinthrop, th^
ivening being
^cott and stafl
THE LOWELL FACTORY OIKLS NATURAL REGRETS. 391
rode on ouc side of the President's carriage, Col. May and
Meek on the other, — Meek making a great display of
horsemanship, in which as a mountain-man he excelled.
A little later in the summer Meek joined a party of Con-
gressmen who were making campaign speeches in the
principal cities of the north. At Lowell, Mass., he visited
the cotton factories, and was equally surprised at the ex-
tent of the works, and the number of young women em-
ployed in them. Seeing this, the forewoman requested
hira to stop until noon and see the girls com out. As
they passed in review before him, she asked if he had
made his choice. ' ^
"No," replied the gallant Oregonian, "it would be im-
possible to choose, out of such a lot as that ; I should have
to take them all."
If our hero, under all his gaity smothered a sigh of re-
gret that he was not at liberty to take one — a woman like
those with whom for the first time in his life he was privi-
leged to associate — who shall blame him ? The kind of
life he was living now was something totally different to
anything in the past. It opened to his comprehension
delightful possibilities of what might have been done and
enjoyed under other circumstances, yet which now never
could be done or enjoyed, until sometimes he was ready
to fly from all these allurements, and hide himself again
in the Rocky Mountains. Then again by a desperate effort,
such thoughts were banished, and he rushed more eagerly
than before into every pleasure afforded by the present
moment, as if to make the present atone for the past and
the future.
The kindness of the ladies at the White House, while it
was something to be grateful for, as well as to make him
envied, often had the effect to disturb his tranquility by
the suggestions it gave rise to. Yet he was always de-
I
S92
COMMODORE WILKES — '' OREGON LIES."
m
mandiag it, always accepting it. So constantly was he
the attendant of his lady cousins in public and in private
riding and driving, or sauntering in the gardens of the
presidential mansion, that the less favored among their
acquaintances felt called upon to believe themselves ag-
grieved. Often, as the tall form of our hero was seen
with a lady on either arm promenading the gardens at
■evening, the question would pass among the curioua but
uninitiated — "Who is that?" And the reply of some
jealous grumbler would be — "It is that Rocky
Mountain man," so loud sometimes as to be o\;erheard by
the careless tri d. who smothered a laugh behind a hat or
fi fan.
And so passed that brief summer of our hero's life. A
great deal of experience, of sight-seeing, and enjoyment
had been crowded into a short few months of time. He
had been introduced to and taken by the hard by the
most celebrated men of the day. Nor had he fall'^d to
meet with men whom he had known in the mountains and
in Oregon. His old employer, Wilkes, who was ill in
Washington, sent for him to come and tell "some of those
Oregon lies" for his amusement, and Meek, to humor him,
atretched some of his good stories to the most wonderful
dimensions.
But from the very nature of the enjoyment it could not
last long ; it was too vivid and sensational for constant
wear. Feeling this, he began to weary of Washington,
and more particularly since he had for the last fev/ weeks
been stopping away from the White House. In one of his
rcLtless moods he paid a visit to Polk, who detecting the
state of his mind asked laughingly
"Well, Meek, what do you want now?"
"I want to be franked."
*'How long will five hundred dollars Isist you?"
EXTRAVAGANT HABITS.
393
ntly was he
i in private,
rdens of the
among their
emselves ag-
ro was seen
I gardens at
i curious but
>ly of some
Rocky
t; erheard by
ind a bat or
(lo's life. A
i enjoyment
>f time. He
hard by the
he fail'^d to
ountains and
was ill in
ome of those
humor him,
t wonderful
it could not
for constant
^Vashingtoii,
it few weeks
[n one of his
etecting the
i
ru?"
"About as many days as there ar' hundreds, I reckon."
"You are shockingly extravagant, Meek. Where do
vou think all this money is to come from ?"
"It is not my business to know, Mr. President," replied
Meek, laughing, " but it is the business of these United
States to pay the expenses of the messenger from Oregon,
isn't it?"
" I think I will send you to the Secretary of War to be
franked, Meek ; his frank is better than mine. But no,
stay; I will rpeak to Knox about it this time. And you
must not spend your money so recklessly. Meek ; it will
not do — it will not do."
Meek t hanked the President both for the money and the
advice, but gave a champagne supper the next night, and
i)i a week's time was as empty-handed as ever.
The close of the session was at hand and nothing had
been done except to talk. Congress was to adjourn at
noon on Monday, August 14th, and it was now Saturday
the 12tli. The friends of Oregon were anxious; the two
uniting Oregonians nearly desperate. On this morning
of the 12th, the friends of the bill, under Benton's lead, de-
lermined upon obtaining a vote on the final passage of the
bill; resolving that they would not yield to the 5ual mo-
tions for delay and adjournments, but that the; would, it'
necessary, sit until twelve o'clock Monday.
Saturday night wore away; the Sabbath mornir.g'j
sun arose ; and at last, two houri after sunrise, a consul-
tation was hold between Butler, Mason, Calhoun, Davis,
and Foote, which resulted in the announcement that no
further opposition would be offered to taking the vote
upon the final passage of the Oregon bill. The vote
was then taken, the bill passed, and the weary Senate
adjourned, to meet again on Monday for a final adjourn-
ment.
.i Jij
• .
CHAPTER XXXVI.
1848-9. The long suspense ended, Meek prepared to
return to Oregon, if not without some regrets, at the same
time not unwillingly. His restless temper, and life-long
habits of unrestrained freedom began to revolt against the
conventionality of his position in Washington. Besides,
in appointing officers for the new territory, Polk had made
him United States Marshal, than which no office could
have suited him better, and he was as prompt to assume
the discharge of its duties, as all his life he had been to
undertake any duty to which his fortunes assigned him.
On the 20th of August, only six days after the passage
of the territorial bill, he received his papers from Buchan-
an, and set off for Bedford Springs, whither the famOy
from the White House were flown to escape from the suf-
focating air of Washington in August. He had brought
his papers to be signed by Polk, and being expected by
the President found everything arranged for his speedj
departure ; Polk even ordering a seat for him in the up-
coming coach, by telegraph. On learning this from the
President, at dinner, when the band was playing. Meek
turned to the leader and ordered him to play "Sweet
Home," much to the amusement of his lady cousins, who
had their own views of the sweets of a home in Oregon.
A hurried farewell, spoken to each of his friends sepa-
rately, and Oregon's new Marshal was I'oady to proceed
on his long journey toward the Pacific.
PAY OF THE DELEGATES — THE LIOn's SHARE. 395
The occasion of Polk's haste in the matter of /jetting
Meek started, was his anxiety to have the Oregon govern-
ment become a fact before the expiration of his term of
office. The appointment of Governor of the new terri-
tory had been offered to Shields, and declined. Another
commission had been made out, appointing General Jo-
seph Lane of Indiana, Governor of Oregon, and the com-
mission was that day -signed by the President and given
to Meek to be delivered to Lane in the shortest possible
time. His last words to the Marshal on parting were —
" God bless you, Meek. Tell Lane to have a territorial
government organized during my administration."
Of the ten thousand dollars appropriated by Congress
" to be expended under the direction of the President, in
payment for services and expenses of such p nns as had
been engaged by the provisional government < > ogon
in conveying communications to and from the Unitcti
States; and for purchase of presents for such Indian
tribes as the peace and quiet of the country required" —
Thornton received tvvo thousand six hundred dollars,
Meek seven thousand four hundred, and the Indian tribes
none. Whether the President believed that the peace
and quiet of the country did not require presents to be
made to the Indians, or whether family credit required
that Meek should get the lion's share, is not known. How-
over that may be, our hero felt himself to be quite rich,
and proceeded to get rid of his superfluity, as will hereafter
be seen, with his customary prodigality and enjoyment of
the present without regard to the future.
Before midnight on the day of his arrival at the springs,
Meek was on his way to Indiana to see General Lane. Ar-
riving at the Newburg landing one morning at day-break,
he took horse immediately for the General's residence at
Newburg, and presented him with his commission soon
I
•^ ,!l
396
GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL -^TART FOR OREGON.
IMU
after breakfast. Lane sat writing, when Meek, introducing
himself, laid his papers before him.
" Do you accept ?" asked Meek.
"Yes," answered Lane.
"How soon can you be ready to start ?"
"In fifteen minutes!" answered Lane, w'ith military
promptness.
Three days, however, were actually required to make the
necessary preparations for leaving his farm and proceed-
ing to the most remote corner of the United States teni
tory.
At St. Louis they were detained one day, waiting for a
boat to Leavenworth, where they expected to meet their
escort. This one day was too precious to be lost in wait-
ing by so business-like a person as our hero, who, when
nothing more important was to be done- genei-ally was
found, trying to get rid of his money. So, on this occa-
sion, after having disburdened himself of a small amount
in treating the new Governor and all his acquaintances, he
entered into negotiations with a peddler who was impor-
tuning the passengers to buy everything, from a jack-
knife to a silk dress. -
Finding 'that Nat. Lane, the General's son, wanted a
knife, but was disposed to beat down the price, Meek
made an offer for the lot of a dozen or two, and thereby
prevented Lane getting one at any price. ]Not satisfied
with this investment, he next made a purchase of thtee
whole pieces of silk, at one dollar and fi . y cents per yard.
At this stage of the transaction Generil Lane interfered
sufficiently to inquire " what he expected to do with that
stuff?"
" Can't tell," answered Meek ; " but I reckon it is worth
the money."
'• Better save your money," said the more prudent Lane.
y
THE ESCORT OF RIFLEMEN THE ROUTE.
BOt
But the incorrigible spendthrift only laughed, and threat-
ened to buy out the Jew's entire stock, if Lane persisted
in preaching economy.
At St. Louis, besides his son Nat., Lane was met by
Lieut. Hawkins, who was appointed to the command of
the escort of twenty-five riflemen, and Dr. Hayden, sur-
geon of the company. This party proceeded to Leaven-
worth, the point of starting, where the wagons and men
of Hawkins' command awaited them. At this place. Meek
was met by a brother and two sisters who had come to
look on him for the first time in many years. The two
days' delay which was necessary to get the train ready for
a start, afforded an opportunity for this family reunion, the
last that might ever occur between its widely separated
hranches, new shoots from which extend at this day from
Virginia to Alabama, and from Tennessee to California
and Oregon.
By the 10th of September the new government was on
its way to Oregon in the persons of Lane and Meek. The
whole company of officers, men, and teamsters, numbered,
about fifty -five ; the wagons ten ; and riding-horses, an
extra supply for each rider.
The route taken, with the object to avoid the snows of
a northern winter, was from Leavenworth to Santa Fe,
and thence down the Rio Grande to near El Paso ; thence
northwesterly by Tucson, in Arizona; thence to the
Pimas village on the Gila River ; following the Gila to its
junction with the Colorado, thence northwesterly again to
the Bay of San Pedro in California. From this place the
company were to proceed by ship to San Francisco ; and
thence again by ship to the Columbia River.
On the Santa Fe trail they met the army returning
from Mexico, under Price, and learned from them that
they could not proceed with wagons beyond Santa Fe.
i
h n
'1 '
898
price's army — AN ADVENTURE.
The lateness of the season, although it was not attended
with snow, as on the northern route it would have been,
subjected the travelers nevertheless to the strong, cold
winds which blow over the vast extent of open country
between the Missouri River and the high mountain range
which forms the water-shed of the continent. It also
made it more difficult to subsist the animals, especially
after meeting Price's army, which had already swept the
country bare.
On coming near Santa Fe, Meek was riding ahead of
his party, when he had a most unexpected encounter.
Seeing a covered traveling carriage drawn up under the
shade of some trees growing beside a small stream, not
far off from the trail, he resolved, with his usual love of
adventure, to discover for himself the character of the
propnetor. But as he drew nearer, he discovered no
one, although a camp-table stood under the trees, spread
with refreshments, not only of a solid, but a fluid nature.
The sight of a bottle of cognac induced him to dismount,
and he was helping himself to a liberal glass, when a
head was protruded from a covering of blankets inside
the carriage, and a heavy bass voice was heard in a polite
protest :
" Seems to me, stranger, you are making free with my
property !"
" Here's to you, sir," rejoined the purloiner ; "it isn't
often I find as good brandy as that," — ^holding out the
glass admiringly, — *' but when I do, I make it a point of
honor not to pass it."
"May I inquire your name, sir?" asked the owner of
the brandy, forced to smile at the good-humored audacity
of his guest.
" I couldn't refuse to give my name after that," — ^re-
placing the glass on the table, — " and I now introduce
A PLEASANT AND UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER.
399
myself as Joseph L. Meek, Esq., Marshal of Oregon, on
my way from Washington to assist General Lane in estab-
li3hing a territorial Government west of the Rocky Moun-
tains."
"Meek! — what, not the Joe Meek I have heard my
brothers tell so much about ?"
"Joe Meek is my name; but whar did your brothers
know me ?" inquired our hero, mystified in his turn.
" I think you must have known Captain William Sub-
lette and his brother Milton, ten or twelve years ago, in
the Rocky Mountains," said the gentleman, getting out of
the carriage, and approaching Meek with extended hand.
A delighted recognition now took place. From Solo-
mon Sublette, the owner of the carriage and the cognac.
Meek learned many partic' of the life and death of
his former leaders in the l .< an tains. Neither of them
were then living ; but this younger brother, Solomon,
had inherited Captain Sublette's wife and wealth at the
same time. After these explanations, Mr. Sublette raised
the curtains of the carriage again, and assisted to lescend
from it a lady, whom he introduced as his wife, and who
exhibited much gratification in becoming acquainted with
the hero of many a tale recited to her by her former hus-
band, Captain Sublette.
In the midst of this pleasant exchange of reminiscences,
the remainder of Meek's party rode up, were introduced,
and invited to regale themselves on the fine liquors with
which Mr. Sublette's carriage proved to be well furnished.
This little adventure gave our hero much pleasure, as
furnishing a link between the past and present, and bring-
ing freshly to, mind many incidents already beginning to
fade in his memory.
At Santa Fe, the train stopped to be overhauled and
reconstructed. The wagons having to be abandoned,
26
w^
. ^1..
M «.
5 !
1
400
DESERTION OF SOLDIERS DROUTH.
their contents had to be packed on mules, after the man-
ner of mountain or of Mexican travel and transportation.
This change accomplished, with as little delay as possible
the train proceeded without any other than the usual
difficulties, as far as Tucson, when two of the twenty-five
riflemen deserted, having become suddenly enamored of
liberty, in the dry and dusty region of southern Arizontu
Lieutenant Hawkins, immediately on discovering the
desertion, dispatched two men, well armed, to compel
their return. One of the men detailed for this duty be-
longed to the riflemen, but the other was an Americau,
who, with a company of Mexican packers, had joined the
train at Santa Fe, and was acting in the capacity of pilot
In order to fit out this volunteer for the service, always
dangerous, of retaking deserting soldiers. Meek had lent
him his Colt's revolvers. It was a vain precaution, how-
ever, both the men being killed in attempting to capture
the deserters ; and Meek's pistols were never more heard
of, having fallen into the murderous hands of the run-
aways. ... '.v., .,.:-. ' '■:,
Drouth now began to be the serious evil with which
the travelers had to contend. From the Pimas villages
westward, it continually grew worse, the animals being
greatly reduced from the want both of food and water.
At the crossing of the Colorado, the animals had to be
crossed over by swimming, the officers and men by rafts
made of bulrushes. Lane and Meek being the first to be
ferried over, were landed unexpectedly in the midst of a
Yuma village. The Indians, however, gave them no
trouble, and, except the little artifice of drowning some
of the mules at the crossing, in order to get their flesh to
eat, committed neither murders nor thefts, nor any out-
rage whatever.
It was quite as well for the unlucky mules to be
t'i i
'Uiu
fter the man-
ransportation.
ly as possible,
an the usual
e twenty-five
enamored of
lern Arizona,
icovering the
d, to compel
this dutv he-
iQ Americau,
ad joined the
acity of pilot,
rvice, always
reek had lent
caution, how-
ag to capture
r more heard
of the run-
1 with which
*imas villages
nimals being
d and water.
Is had to be
men by rafts
;he first to be
le midst of a
ive them no
)wning some
their flesh to
nor any out-
mules to be
wrw^i^'
i
^ ,:s ;
a '.
' ( '
.
Jf^^R
!
\:'\\ ™
i 1
:^ ;
••i ■
\
1
Mit'i
3;:!
DEMORALIZATION OF THE ESCORT.
401
•iW
drowned and eaten as it was for their fellows to travel on
over the arid desert before them until they starved and
perished, which they nearly all did. From the Colorado
on, the company of Lieut. Hawkins became thoroughly
demoralized. Not only would the animals persist in
dying, several in a day, but the soldiers also persisted in
deserting, until, by the time he reached the coast, his for-
lorn hope was reduced to three men. But it was not the
drouth in their case which caused the desertions : it was
rumors which they heard everywhere along the route, of
mines of gold and silver, where they flattered themselves
they could draw better pay than from Uncle Sam's cofFers.
The same difficulty from desertion harassed Lieutenant-
Colonel Loring in the following summer, when he at-
tempted to establish a line of posts along the route to
Oregon, by the way of Forts Kearney, Laramie, and
through the South Pass to Fort Hall. His mounted rifle
regiment dwindled down to almost nothing. At one
time, over one hundred men deserted in a body : and al-
though he pursued and captured seventy of them, he
could not keep them from deserting again at the first
favorable moment. The bones of many of those gold-
seeking soldiers were left on the plains, where wolves had
stripped the flesh from them ; and many more finally had
rude burial at the hands of fellow gold-seekers : but few
i ideed ever won or enjoyed that for which they risked
everything.
On arriving at Cook's wells, some distance beyond the
Colorado, our travelers found that the water at this place
was tainted by the body of a mule which had lost its life
some days before in endeavoring to get at the water.
This was a painful discovery for the thirsty party to make.
However, there being no water for some distance ahead.
General Lane boiled some of it, and made coffee of it.
T^ r
402
THE PARTY ON FOOT — EXTREME SUFFERINO.
r\ ],
remarking that "maggots were more easily swallowed
cooked than raw!" -
. And here the writer, and no doubt, the reader too, la
compelled to make a reflection. Was the ofl&ce of Gover-
nor of a Territory at fifteen hundred dollars a year, and
Indian agent at fifteen hundred more, worth a journey of
over three thousand miles, chiefly by land, even allowing
that there had been no maggots in the water? Quien
aahef
Not far from this locality our party came upon one hun-
dred wagons abandoned by Major Graham, who had not
been able to cross the desert with them. Proceeding on-
ward, the riders eventually found themselves on foot, there
being only a few animals left alive to transport the bag-
gage that could not be abandoned. So great was their
extremity, that to quench their thirst the stomach of a
mule was opened to get at the moisture it contained. In
the horror and pain of the thirst-fever. Meek renewed
again the sufferings he had undergone years before in the
deserts inhabited by Diggers, and on the parched plams
of the Snake River.
About the middle of January the Oregon Government,
which had started out so gaily from Fort Leavenworth,
arrived weary, dusty, foot-sore, famished, and suffering, at
William's Ranch on the Santa Anna River, which empties
into the Bay of San Pedro. Here they were very kindly
received, and their wants ministered to.
At this place Meek developed, in addition to his various
accomplishments, a talent for speculation. While over-
hauling his baggage, the knives and the silk which had
been purchased of the peddler in St. Louis, were brought
to light. No sooner did the senoritas catch a glimpse of
the shining fabrics than they went into raptures over them,
after the fashion of their sex. Seeing the state of" mind
\ .
m
SPECULATION IN SILKS AND JACFKNIVES.
403
to which these raptures, if unheeded, were likely to re-
duce the ladies of his house, Mr. Williams approached
Meek delicately on the subject of purchase. But Meek,
in the first flush of speculative shrewdness declared that
IS he had bought the goods for his own wife, he could not
find it in his heart to sell them.
However, as the senoritas were likely to prove inconsola-
ble, Mr. Williams again mentioned the desire of his family
to be clad in silk, and the great difficulty, nay, impossi-
bility, of obtaining the much coveted fabric in that part
. of the world, and accompanied his remarks with an offer
f ten dollars a yard for the lot. At this magnificent offer
..'• hero affected to be overcome by regard for the feel-
ings of the senoritas, and consented to sell his dollar and
a-half silks for ten dollars per yard.
In the same manner, finding that knives were a dejira-
ble article in that country, very much wanted by miners
and others, he sold out his dozen or two, for an ounce
each of gold-dust, netting altogether the convenient little
profit of about five hundred dollars. VVhen Gen. Lane
was informed of the transaction, and reminded of his ob-
jections to the original purchase, he laughed heartily.
"Well, Meek," said he, "you were drunk when you
bought them, and by I think you must have been
drunk when you sold them ; but drunk or sober, I will
own you can beat me at a bargain."
Such bargains, however, became common enough about
this time in California, for this was the year memorable in
California history, of the breaking out of the gold-fever,
and the great rush to the mines which made even the
commonest things worth their weight in gold-dust.
Proceeding to Los Angelos, our party, once more comfort-
ably mounted, found traveling comparatively easy. At this
place they found quartered the command of Maj. Graham,
404
OKEGONIANS AT SAN FRANCISCO.
^^^\-V>i
jlLl
whose abandoned wagons had been passed at the Bornelh
on the Colorado River. The town, too, was crowded
with miners, : len of every class, but chiefly American
adventurers, drawn together from every quarter of Cali-
fornia and Mexico by the rumor of the gold discovery at
Sutter's Fort.
, On arriving at San Pedro, a vesse: -the Southampton^
was found ready to sail. She had on board a crowd of
fugitives from l^.Iexico, bound to San Francisco, where they
hoped to find repose from the troubles which .harassed
that revolutionary Republic. •
■ At San -Francisco, Meek was surprised to meet about
two hundred Oregoniaus., who on the first news of the
gold discovery the previous autumn, had fled, as it is said
men shall flee on the day of judgment — leaving the wheat
ungathered in the fields, the grain unground in the mills,
the cattle unherded on the plains, their took and farming
implements rusting on the ground — everything abandoned
SH if it would never more be needed, to go ai. 1 seek the
shining dust, which is vainly denominated "fi' thy lucre,"
The two hundred were on their way home, having all
either made something, or lost their hf alth by exposure
80 that they were obliged to return. But they left many
more in the mines.
Such were the tales told in San Francisco of the won-
derlul fortunes of some of the miners that young Lane be-
came infected with the universal fever and declared his
intention to try mining" with the rest. Meek too, deter-
mined to risk something in goM-seeking, and as some of
the teamsters who had left Fort Leavenworth with the
company, and had come as far as San Francisco, were very
desirous of going to the mines. Meek fitted out two or
three with paok-horses, tools, and provisions, to accompany
young Lane. For the money expended in the outfit he
i
h:m
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL QUARREL.
405
; the Bomella
vas crowded
fly American
arter of Cali-
. discovery at
Southampton^
d a crowd of
0, where they
lich .harassed
) meet about
new 8 of the
1, as it is said
ag the wheat
. in the mills,
and farming
g abandoned
aii 1 seek the
fiUhy lucre."
^ having all
by exposure
ey left many
of the won-
ing Lane be-
declared his
c too, deter-
as some of
:'th with the
o, were very
out two or
> accompany
iie outfit he
was to receive half of their first year's profits. The re-
sult of this venture was three pickle-jars of gold-dust,
which were sent to him by the hands of Nat. Lane, the
foUowin^o' year ; and which just about reimbursed him for
the outlay. ..;■ •, ' ■■,'•■- ■ :; v/ .-■.; :.,.,•,.,/■■;.',;■_>■
At San Francisco, Gen. Lane found the U. S. Sloop of
War, the Si. Marys; and Meek insisted that the Oregon
government, which was represented in their persons, had
a right to require her services in transporting itself to its
proper seat. But Lane, whose notions of economy ex-
tended, singularly enough to the affairs of the general
<>'ovc-rnment, would not consent to the needless expendi-
ture. Meek was rebellious, and quoted Thornton, by
whom he was determined not to be outdone in respect of
expense for transportation. Lane insisted that his dignity
did rot require a government vessel to convey him to
Ore^ron. In short the new gove'^nmont was very much
divided against itself, and only escaped a fall by Meek's
finding some one, or some others, else, on whom to play
his pranks.
The first one was a Jew peddler who had gentlemen's
clothes to sell. To him the Marshal represented himself
as a United States Custom officer, and afler frightening
him with a threat of confiscating his entire stock, finally
compromised with the terrified Israelite by accepting a
suit of clothes for himself After enjoying the mortifica-
tion of spirit which the loss inflicted on the Jew, for twen-
ty-ibui hours, he finally paid him for the clothes, at the
same time administering a lecture upon the sin and dan-
ger of smuggling.
The party which had left Leavenworth for Oregon
nearly six months before, numbering fifty-five, now num-
bered only seven. Of the original number two had been
killed, and all the rest had deserted to go to the mines.
406
A SALUTK — ARr-.VAL AT OREGON CITY.
There remained only Gen. Lane, Meek, Lieut. Hawkins
and Ilayden, surgeon, besides three soldiers. With this
small company Gen. Lane went on board the Jeanette a
small vessel, crowded with miners, and destined for the
Columbia River. As the Jeanette dropped down the Bay
a salute was fired from the ^S^i^. Mary's in honor of Gen,
Lane, and appropriated to himself by Marshal Meek, who
seems to have delighted in 0;ppropriating to himself all
the honors in whatever circumstances he might be placed-
the more especially too, if such assumption annoyed the
General.
After a tedious voyage of eighteen days the Jeanette
arrived in the Columbia River. From Astoria the party
took small boats for Oregon City, a voyage of one hun-
dred anc' twenty miles ; so that it was already the 2d of
Mai h «rhen they arrived at that place, and only one day
was left for the organization of the Territorial Govern-
ment before the expiration of Polk's term of office.
On the 2d of March Gen. Lane arrived at Oregon City,
and was introduced to Gov. Abernethy, by Marshal Meek,
On the 3d, there appeared the following—
PROCLAMATION.
In pursuance of an act of Conjifress, approved tte 14tli of Aucfust, in the
year of our Lord 1848, establishing a Territorial Governmeii*^ in the Territory
of Oregon:
I, Joseph Lane, was, on the 18th day of August, in the year 1848, appointed
Governor in and for the Territory of Oregon. I have therjforo thought it
proper to issue this, my proclamation, making known that I ^lave this day en-
tered u|K)n tlu! discharge of the duties of my office, and by virtue thereof do
declare the laws of the United States extended over, and declared to be in
force in said Territory, so far as the same, or any portion thereof, may be ap-
plicable.
Given under my hand at Oregon City, in the Territory of Oregon, thisiSd
day of March, Anno Domini 1849. Joseph Laxe.
Thus Oregon had one day, under Polk, who, take it all
in all, had been a faithful guardian of her interesta
f
THE GOLD EXCITEMENT.
4or
In the month of August, 1848,-. the .Honolulu, a vessel
of one hundred and fifty tons, owned in Boston, carrying
a consignment of goods to a mercantile house in Portland,
arrived fit her anchorage in the Wallamet, via San Fran-
cisco, California. Captain Newell, almost before he had
discharged freight, commenced buying up a cargo of flour
and other provisions. But what excited the wonder of
the Oregonians was the fact that he also bought up all
manner of tools such as could be used in digging or cut-
ting, from a spa le and pickaxe, to a pocket-knife. Th:b.
singular proceeding naturally aroused the suspicions of a
people accustomed to have something to suspect. A de-
mand was made for the IlonoluliCs papers, and these not
being forthcoming, it was proposed by some of the pru-
dent ones to tie her up. When this movement was at-
tempted, the secret came out. Captain Newell, holdin'g
up a bag of gold-dust before the astonished eyes of hia
persecutors, cried out —
" Do you see that gold ? you, I will depopulate
your country ! I know where there is plenty of this stuff,
and I am taking these tools where it is to be found."
This was in August, the month of harvest. So great
was the excitement which seized the people, that all classes
of men were governed by it. Few persons stopped to
consider that this was the time for producers to reap golden
harvests of precious ore, for the other yellow harvest of
grain which was already ripe and waiti ig to be gathered.
Men left their grain standing, and took their teams from
the reapers to pack their provisions and tools to the mines.
Some men would have gladly paid double to get back
the spades, shovels, or picks, which the shrewd Yankee
Captain had purchased from them a week previous. All
implements of this nature soon commanded fabulous prices,
and he was a lucky man who had a supply.
WW^'
CHAPTER XXXVII.
1850-4. The Territorial law of Oregon combined the
offices of Governor and Indian Agent. One of the most
important ac+s which marked Lane's administration was
t^at of securing and punishing the murderers of Dr. and
Mrs. Whitman. The Indians of the Cayuse tribe to whom
the murderers belonged, were assured that the only way
in which they could avoid a war with the whites was to
.deliver up the chiefs who had been engaged in the massacre,
to be tried and punished according to the laws of the
whites. Of the two hundred Indians implicated in the
massacre, five were given up to be dealt with according to
law. These were the five chiefs, Te-lon-i-kite, Tam-a-has,
Kloha-mas^ Ki-am-a-sump-Mn^ and I-sa-i-a-dia-lak-is.
These men might have made their escape ; there was
no imperative necessity upon them to suffer death, had
they chosen to flee to the mountains. But with that
strange magnanimity which the savage often shows, to the
astonishment of Christians, they resolved to die for their
people rather than by their flight to involve them in
war. ,.
Early in the summer of 1850, the prisoners were deliv.
ered up to Gov. Lane, and brought down to Oregon City,
where they were given into the keeping of the marshal.
During their passage down the river, and while they were
incarcerated at Oregon City, their bearing was most proud
and haughty. Some food, more choice than their prison-
er's fr.re, being offered to one of the chiefs at a camp of
PROUD BEARING OF THE PRISONERS.
409
the guard, iii their transit down the Columbia, the proud
savage rejected it with scorn. ,
"What sort of heart have you," he asked, "that you
offer food to me, whose hands are red with your brother's
blood?" .;.: v
And this, after eleven years of missionary labor, was all
the comprehension the savage nature knew of the main
principle of Christianity, — forgiveness, or charity toward
our enemies.
At Oregon City, Meek had many conversations with
them. In all of these they gave but one explanation of
their crime. They feared that Dr. Whitman intended,
with the other whites, to take their land from them ; and
they were told by Jo Lewis, the half-breed, that the Doc-
tor's medicine was intended to kill them off quickly, in
order the sooner to get possession of their country. None
of them expressed any sorrow for what had been done ;
but one of them, Ki-am-a-sumpkin^ declared nis inno-
cence to the last.
In conversations with others, curious to gain some
knowledge of the savage moral nature, Te-lou-i-kite often
puzzled these students of Indian ethics. When ques-
tioned as to his motive for allowing himself to be taken,
Te-lou-i-hite answered :
"Did not your missionaries tell us that Christ died to
save his people? So die we, to save our people!"
Notwithstanding the prisoners were pre-doomed to
death, a regular form of trial was gone through. The
Prosecuting Attorney for the Territory, A. Holbrook, con-
ducted the prosecution : Secretary Pritchett, Major Run-
nels, and Captain Claiborne, the defence. The fee of-
fered by the chiefs was fifty head of horses. Whether it
was compassion, or a love of horses which animated the
410
meek's description op the trial.
defence, quite an effort was made to show that the mur-
derers were not guilty.
The presiding Justice was 0. C. Pratt — Bryant having
resigned. Perhaps we cannot do better than to give the
Marshal's own description of the trial and execution,
which is as follows : " Thar war a great many indict-
ments, and a great many people in attendance at this
court. The Grand Jury found true bills against the five
Indians, and they war arraigned for trial. Captain Clai-
borne led off for the defence. He foamed and ranted
like he war acting a play in some theatre. He knew
about as much law as one of the Indians he war defend
ing ; and his gestures were so powerful that he smashed
two tumblers that the Judge had ordered to be filled with
cold water for him. After a time he gave out mentally
and physically. Then came Major Runnels, who made a
very good defence. But the Marshal thought they must
do better, for they would never ride fifty head of horses
■ with them speeches.
Mr. Pritchett closed for the defence with a very able
argument ; for he war a man of brains. But then followed
Mr. Holbrook, for the prosecution, and he laid down the
case so plain that the jury were convinced before they
left the jury-box. When the Judge passed sentence of
death on them, two of the chiefs showed no terror ; but
the other three were filled with horror and consternation
that they could not conceal.
After court had adjourned, and Gov. Lane war gone
South on some business with the Rogue River Indians,
Secretary Pritchett came to me and told me that as he
war now acting Governor he meant to reprieve the In-
dians. Said he to me, ' Now Meek, I want you to liber-
ate them Indians, when you receive the order.'
THE EXECUTION.
411
'Pritchett,' said I, 'so far as Meek is concerned, he
would do anything for you.'
This talk pleased him ; he said he 'war glad to hear it;
and would go right off and write the reprieve.'
' But,' said I, ' Pritchett, let us talk now like men. I
have got in my pocket the death-warrant of them Indians,
signed by Gov. Lane. The Marshal will execute them
men, as certain as the day arrives.'
Pritchett looked surprised, and remarked — 'That war
not what you just said, that you would do anything for
me.'
Said I, 'you were talking then to Meek, — not to the
Marshal, who always does his duty.' At that he got mad
and left.
When the 3d of June, the day of execution, arrived,
Oregon City was thronged with people to witness it. I
brought forth the five prisoners and placed them on a
drop. Here the chief, who always declared his innocence,
Kiam-i-sump-lcin^ begged me to kill him with my knife, —
for an Indian fears to be hanged, — but I soon put an end
to his entreaties by cutting the rope which held the drop,
with my tomahawk. As I said ' The Lord have mercy on
your souls,' the trap fell, and the five Cay uses hung in
the air. Three of them died instantly. The other two
struggled for several minutes ; the Little Chief, Tam-a-has,
the longest. It was he who was cruel to my little girl at
the time of the massacre ; so I just put my foot on the
knot to tighten it, and he got quiet. After thirty-five
minutes they were taken down and burred."
Thus terminated a tragic chapter in tht^ history of Ore-
gon. Among the services which Thurston performed for
the Territory, was getting an appropriation of $100,000,
to pay the expenses of the Cayuse war. From the Spring
of 1848, when all the whites, except the Catholic mission-
aries, were withdrawn from the upper country, for a pe-
i '
412
STATE OP THE UPPER COUNTRY.
riod of several years, or until Government had made
treaties with the tribes east of the Cascades, no settlers
were permitted to take up land in Eastern Oregon. Dur-
ing those years, the Indians, dissatisfied with the encroach-
ments which they foresaw the whites would finally make
upon their country, and incited by certain individu J.d who
had suffered wrongs, or been punished for their own of-
fences at the hands of the whites, finally combined, as it
was supposed from the extent of the insurrection, and
Oregon was involved in a three years Indian war, the his-
tory of which would fill a volume of considerable size.
When Meek returned to Oregon as marshal, with his
fine clothes and his newly acquired social accomplish-
ments, he was greeted with a cordial acknowledgment of
his services, as well as admiration for his improved appear-
ance. He was generally acknowledged to be the -model
of a handsome marshal, when clad in his half military
dress, and placed astride of a fine horse, in the execution
of the more festive duties of marshal of a procession on
some patriotic occasion.
But no amount of official responsibility could ever
change him from a wag into a "grave and reverend
seignior." No place nor occasion was sacred to him when
the wild humor was on him.
At this same term of court, after the conviction of the
Cayuse chiefs, there was a case before Judge Pratt, in
which a man was charged with selling liquor to the In-
dians. In these cases Indian evidence was allowed, but
the jury-room being up stairs, caused a good deal of
annoyance in court ; because when an Indian witness was
wanted up stairs, a dozen or more who were not wanted
would follow. The Judg'o's bench was so placed that it
commanded a full view of the staircase and every one
passing up or down it. •
A call for some witness to go before the jury was fol
SCENE IN ± COURT- IIOOM.
413
jrocession on
lowed on this occasion, as on all others, by a general rush
of the Indians, who were curious to witness the proceed-
ings. One fat old squaw had got part way up the stairs,
when the Marshal, full of wrath, seized her by a leg and
dragged her down flat, at the same time holding the fat
MEEK AS UNITED STATES MARSHAL.
member so that it was pointed directly toward the Judge.
A general explosion followed this pointed action, and the
Judge grew very red in the face.
"Mr. Marshal, come within the bar!" thundered the
Judge.
Meek complied, with a very dubious expression of
countenance.
'* I must fine you fifty dollars," continued the Judge ;
"the dignity of the Court must be maintained."
When court had adjourned that evening, the Judge
and the Marshal were walking toward their respective
lodgings. Said Meek to his Honor :
I
414
JUDGE NELSON AND THE CARPKNTKUa.
" Why did you fine me so heavily to-day ?"
*' I must do it," returned the Judge. " I must keep up
the dignity of the Court ; I must do it, if I pay the fines
myself"
" And you must pay all the fines you lay on the marshal,
of course," answered Meek.
" Very well," said the Judge ; " I shall do so."
" All right. Judge. As I am the proper disbursing
oflBcer, you can pay that fifty d' ars to me — and I'll take
now.
At this view of the case, his Honor was staggered fcr
one moment, and could only swing his cane and laugh
faintly. After a little reflection, he said :
" Marshal, when court is called to-morrow, I shall remit
your fine ; but don't you let me have occasion to fine you
agam !
After the removal of the capital to Salem, in 1852,
court was held in a new building, on which the carpenters
were still at work. Judge Nelson, then presiding, was
much put out by the noise of hammers, and sent the
marshal more than once, to request the men to suspend
their work during those hours when court was in session,
but all to no purpose. Finally, when his forbearance was
quite exhausted, he appealed to the marshal for advice.
"What shall I do. Meek," said he, "to stop that in-
fernal noise ?"
"Put the workmen on the Grand Jury," replied Meek.
"Summon them instantly!" returned the Judge. They
were summoned, and quiet secured for that term.
At this same term of court, a great many of the foreign
born settlers appeared, to file their intention of becoming
American citizens, in order to secure the benefits of the
Donation Law. Meek was retained as a witness, to swear
to their qualifications, one of which was, that they were
THE OREQON QOUBT ON AX EXCURSION.
415
possessed of good moral characters. The first day there
were about two hundred who made declarations, Meek
wituessiog for most of them. On the day following, he
declined serving any longer.
"What now?" inquired the Judge; "you made no
objections yesterday."
" Very true," replied Meek ; " and two hundred lies
are enough for me. I swore that all those mountain-men
were of 'good moral character,' and I never knew a
mountain-man of that description in my life I Let Newell
take the job for to-day."
The "job" was turned over to Newell; but whether
the second lot was better than the first, has never trans-
pired.
During Lane's administration, there was a murder com-
mitted by a party of Indians at the Sound, on the person
of a Mr. Wallace. Owing to the sparse settlement of the
country. Governor Lane adopted the original measure of
exporting not only the officers of the court, but the jury
also, to the Sound district. Meek was ordered to find
transportation for the court in toio, jury and all. Boat^i
Tirere hired and provisioned to take the party to the
Cowelitz Landing, and from thence to Fort Steilacoom,
horses were hired for the land transportation.
The Indians accused were five in number — two chiefs
and three slaves. The Grand Jury found a true bill
against the two chiefe, and let the slaves go. So few
were the inhabitants of those parts, that the marshal was
obliged to take a part of the grand jury to serve on the
petite jury. The form of a trial was gone through with,
the Judge delivered his charge, and the jury retired.
It was just after night-fall when these worthies betook
themselves to the jury-room. One of them curled him-
self up in a corner of the room, with the injunction to
27
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416
THE CHIEF 8 WIPE.
,i fi
the others to " wake him up when thoy got ready to h&m
them rascals." The rest of the party spent four
or five hours betting against monte, when, being deepy
also, they waked up their associate, spent about ten min-
utes in arguing their convictions, and returned a verdict
of "guilty of murder in the first degree."
The Indians were sentenced to be hung at noon on the
following day, and the marshal was at work early in the
morning preparing a gallows. A rope was procured
from a ship lying in the sound. At half-past eleven
o'clock, guarded by a company of artillery from the fort,
the miserable savages were marched forth to die. A
large number of Indians were collected to witness the
execution; and to prevent any attempt at rescue, Captaia
Hill's artillery formed a ring around the marshal and his
prisoners. The execution was interrupted or delayed for
some moments, on account of the frantic behavior of an
Indian woman, wife of one of the chiefs, whose entreaties
for the life of her husband were very afiecting. Having
exhausted all her eloquence in an appeal to the nobler
feelings of the man, she finally promised to leave her
husband and become his wife, if he, the marshal, would
spare her lord and chief.
She was carried forcibly out of the ring, and the hang-
ing took place. When the bodies were taken down,
Meek spoke to the woman, telling her that now she could
have her husband ; but she only sullenly replied, " You
have killed him, and you may bury him."
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
While Meek was in Washington, he had been dubbed
with the title of Colonel, which title he still bears, though
during the Indian war of 1855-56, it was alternated with
that of Major. During his marshalship he was fond of
showing off his titles and authority to the discomfiture of
that class of people who had "put on airs" with him
in former days, when he was in his transition stage from
a trapper to a United States Marshal.
While Pratt was Judge of the District Court, a kidnap-
ing case came before him. The writ of habeas corpus
having been disregarded by the Captain of the Melvin,
who was implicated in the business, Meek was sent to
arrest him, and also the first mate. Five of the Melvin^s
sailors were ordered to be summoned as witnesses, at the
same time.
Meek went on board with his summons, marched for-
ward, and called out the names of the men. Every man
came up as he was summoned. When they were together,
Meek ordered a boat lowered for their conveyance to
Oregon City. The men started to obey, when the Cap-
tain interfered, saying that the boat should not be taken
for such a purpose, as it belonged to him.
" That is of no consequence at all," answered the smiling
marshal. " It is a very good boat, and will suit our pur-
pose very well. Lower away, men •"
The men quickly dropped the boat. As it fell, they
418
THE CAPTAiN OF TUE MELVIN.
were ordered to man it. When they were at the oars
the mate was then invited to take a seat in it, which he
did, after a moment's hesitation, and glancing at his snpp.
rior officer. Meek then turned to the Captain, and ex-
tended the same invitation to him. But he was reluctant
10 accept the courtesy, blustering Goi>siderably, and de-
claring his intention to remain where he was. Meek
slowly drew his revolver, all the time cool and smiling.
" I don't like having to urge a gentleman too hard,"
he said, in a meaning tone ; " but thar is an argument
that few men ever resist. Take a seat, Captain."
Thb Captain took a seat ; the idlers on shore cheered
for "Joe Meek" — which was, after all, his most familiar
title ; thfc Captain and mate went to Oregon City, and
were fined respectively $500 and $300 ; the men took
advantage of being on shore to desert ; and altogether,
the master of the Melvin felt himself badly used.
About the same time news was received that a Biitisli
vessel wa'j unloading goods for the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, somewhere on Puget Sound. Under the new order
of affairs iu Oregon, this was smuggling. Delighted with
an opportunity of doing the United States a service, and
the British traders an ill turn. Marshal Meek immediately
summoned a posse of men and started for the Sound. On
his way he learned the name of the vessel and Captain,
and recognized them as having been in the Columbia
River some years before. On that occasion the Captain
had ordered Meel- ashore, when, led by his curiosity and
general love of novelty, he had paid a visit to th's vessel,
This information was "nuts" to the marshal, who believed
that " a turn about was fair play."
With great dispatch and secrecy he arrived entirely
unexpected at the point where the vessel was lying, and
proceeded to board her without loss of ^me. The Cap-
mr
m
ARREST OF A BRITISH SMUGGLER.
41«
tain and oflficers were taken by surprise and were all
atfhast at this unlocked for appearar."o. But after the
first moment of agitation was over, the 'aptain recognized
Meek, he being a man not likely to be forgotten, and
thinking to turn this circumstance to advantage, approach-
ed him with the blandest of smiles and the most cordial
manner, saying with forced frankness —
" I am sure I have had the pleasure of meeting you be-
fore. You must have been at Vancouver when my ves-
sel was in the river, seven or eight years ago. I am very
happy to have met with you again."' • •
"Thar is some truth in that remark of yours. Captain,"
rephed Meek, eyeing him with lofty scorn; "you did
meet me at Vancouver several years ago. But I was
nothing but ' Joe Meek ' at that time, and you ordered me
ashore. Circumstances are changed since then. I am
now Colonel Joseph L. Meek, United States Marshal for
Oregon Territory ; and you sir, are only a smug-
gler ! Go ashore, sir ! "
The Captain saw the point of that concluding "go
ashore, sir !" and obeyed with quite as bad a g) ^ .e as ' Joe
Meek ' had done in the first instance.
The vessel was confiscated and sold, netting to the Gov-
ernment about $40,000, above expenses. This money,
which fell into bad hands, failed to be accounted for.
Nobody suspected the integrity of the marshal, but most
persons suspected that he placed too much confidence in
the District Attorney, who had charge of his accounts.
On some one asking him, a short time after, what had be-
come of the money from the sale of the smuggler, he
Beeraed struck with a sudden surprise :
*^Why," said he, looking astonished at the question,
"thar was barly enough for the ofticers of the court!"
This answer, given as it was, with such apparent simplic-
%i\
rA
420
MISPLACED CONFIDENCE AND THE RESULT.
ity, ])ecame a popular joke; and "barly enough" was
quoted on all occasions.
The truth was, that there was a Svrrious deficiency in
Meek's account with the Government, resulting entirely
from his want of confidence in his own literary accom-
plishments, which led him to trust all his correspondence
and his accounts to the hands of a man whose talents were
more eminent than his sense of honor. The result of this
misplaced confidence was a loss to the Government, and
to himself, whom the Government held accountable. Con-
trary to the general rule of disbursing officers, the office
made him poor instead of rich ; and when on the incom-
ing of the Pierce administration he suffered decapitation
along with the other Territorial officers, he was forced to
retire upon his farm on the Tualatin Plains, and become a
rathel" indifferent tiller of the earth.
The breaking out of the Indian war of 1855-6, was
preceded by a long period of uneasiness among the Indi-
ans generally. The large emigration which crossed the
plains every year for California and Oregon was one cause
of the disturbance ; not only by exciting their fears for
the possession of their lands, but by the temptation which
was oflfered them to take toll of the travelers. Difficulties
occurred at first between the emigrants and Indians con-
cerning stolen property. These quarrels were followed,
probably the subsequent year, by outrages and murdw
on the part of the Indians, and retaliation on the pait of
volunteer soldiers from Oregon. When once this system
of outrage and retaliation on either aide, was begun, there
was an end of security, and war followed as an inevitable
consequence. Very horrible indeed were the acta per-
petrated by the Indians upon the emigrants to Or^tm,
during the ye" a from 1852 to 1858.
But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregoa,
INDIAN DISTURBANCES THE AGENT MUKDERED.
4-21
it was an opportunity souglit, and not an alternative
forced upon tlieiu, by the politicians of that Territory.
The occasion was simply this. A party of lawless wretches
from the Sound Country, passing over the Cascade Moun-
tains into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the Upper
Columbia mines, found some Yakima wcwien digging roots
in a lonely place, and abused them. The women fled to
tlioir village and told the chiefs of the outrage ; and a party
followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in a
fight.
Mr. BoUn, the Indian sub-agent for Washington went
to the Yakima village, and instead of judging of the case
impartially, made use of threats in the name of the United
States Government, saying that an army should be sent to
punish them for killing his people. On his return home,
Mr. Bolin was followed and murdered.
The murder of an Indian agent was an act which coulc
not be overlooked. Very pr\>|vi>rly, the case should havo
been taken notice of in a manner to convinco the Indiana
that murder must be punished. But, tempt ovl by an op-
portunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat rea-
sonable fears of the white population of Washington ai>d
Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once pro-
claimed war, and issued a call for volunteers, withiuit wait-
ing for the sanction or assistance of the g<"n«M-al Govern-
ment. The moment this was done, it was too kte to re-
tract. It was as if a torch had been applied to a field of
dry grass. So simultaneously did the Indians from Puget
Simnd to the Rocky Mountains, and from th^ Rocky Moun-
tains to the 80Uf*^*'rn boundary of Oregon h« n 1 forth tho
war-whoop, that there was much justification tor the belief
mnch a^tated the people, that h conbi nation among the
IndiuB had been secretly agreed to, and that ihe whites
were al to be exterminated.
U4il!l
422
THE INDIAN WAR OF 1855-6.
Volunteer companies were already raised and sent into
the Indian country, when Brevet Major G. 0/ Haller ar-
rived at Vancouver, now a part of the United States. He
had been as far east as Fort Boise to protect the iucomine
immigration ; and finding on his return that there was an
Indian war on hand, proceeded at once to the Yakima
country with his small force of one hundred men, only
fifty of whom were mounted. Much solicitude was felt
for the resiut of the first engagement, every one knowing
that if the Indians were at first successful, the war would
be long and bloody.
Major Haller was defeated with considerable loss, and
notwithstanding slight reinforcements, from Fort Vancou-
ver, only succeeded in getting safely out of the country.
Major Rames, the commanding officer at Vancouver, seeing
the direction of events, made a requisition upon Governor
Curry for four of his volunteer companies to go into the
field. Then followed applications to Major Eaines for
horses and arms to equip the volunteers ; but the horses
at the Fort being unfit for service, and the Major unau-
thorized to et^uip volunteer troops, there resulted only
misunderstandings and delays. When Gentral Wool, at
the head of the Departmeni in San Francisco, was con-
sulted, he also was without authority to employ or receive
the volunteers; and when the volunteers, who at length
armed and eqninped themselves, carae to go into the field
with thvi regulars, they could not agree as to the mode of
fighting Indians ; so that with one thing and another, the
war became an exciting topic for more reasons than be-
cause the whites were afraid of the Indians. As for Gen-
eral Wool, he was in grent disfavor both in Oregon and
Washington because he did not believe there ever had
existed the necessity for a war ; and that therefore he
bestowed what assistance was at his command very grudg-
OFFICERS OP THE WAR — VOLUNTEERS.
42i^
and sent into
• 0.- Haller ar-
d States. He
t the incoming
t there was an
> the Yakima
■ed men, only
itude was felt
one knowing
;he war would
able loss, and
Fort Vancou-
r the country,
couver, seeing
pon Governor
o go into the
«r Eaines for
mt the horses
Major unau-
resulted only
eral Wool, at
SCO, waa con-
oy or receive
(rho at length
into the field
• the mode of
another, the
!ons than be-
As for Gen-
. Oregon and
sre ever had
therefore he
very grudg-
in"'ly- General Wool, it was said, was jealous of the vol-
unteers; and the volunteers certainly tared little for the
opinion of General Wool.
However all that may be. Col. Meek gives it as his opin-
ion that the old General was right. " It makes me think,'*
said he, " of a bear-fight 1 once saw in the Rocky Moun-
tains, where a huge old grizzly was surrounded by a pack
of ten or twelve dogs, all snapping at and worrying him.
It made hira powerful mad, and every now and then he
would make a claw at one of them that silcEced him at
once. V i •
The Indian war in Oregon gave practice to a number of
officers, since become famous, most prominent among
whom is Sheridan, a. ho served in Oregon as a Lieutenant,
Grant himself, was at one time a Captain on that frontier.
Col. Wright, afterwards Gen. Wright, succeeded Major
Raines at Vancouver, and conducted the war through its
most active period. During a period of three years there
were troops constantly occupied in trying to subdue the
Indians in one quarter or another.
As for the volunteers they fared badly. On the first
call to arms the people responded liberally. The proposi-
tion which the Governor made for their equipment was
accepted, and they turned in their property at a certain
valuation. When the war was over and the property sold,
the men who had turned it in could not purchase it with-
out paying more for it in gold and silver than it was val-
ued at when it was plact'd in the hands of the Quarter-
master. It was sold, however, and the money enjoyed by
the shrewd politu-^al speculators, who thought an Indian
war a very good investment.
Meek was one of the fin-^t to volunteer, and went as a
private in Company A. < )n arriving at the Dalles he was
detailed for special servic<- by Col. J. W. Nesmith, and
I
424
MAJOR MEEK AS A VOLUNTEER.
Hi
Bent out as pilot or messenger, whenever any such duty
■was required. He was finally placed on Nesmith's staff
and given the title of Major, In this capacity, as in every
other, he was still the same alert and willing individual
that we have always seen him, and not a whit less inclined
to be merry when an opportunity offered.
While the army was in the Yakima country, it being an
•enemy's country, and provisions scarce, the troops some-
times were in want of rations. But Meek had not forgot
ten his mountain craft, and always had something to eat,
if anybody did. One evening he had killed a fat cow
which he had discovered astray, and was proceeding to
roast a twenty-pound piece before his camp-fire, when a
number of the officers called on him. The sight and sa-
vory smell of the beef was very grateful to them.
"Major Meek," said they in a breath, "we will sup with
you to-night." '
"I am very sorry, gentlemen, to decline the honor,"
returned Meek with a repetition of the innocent surprise
for which he had so often been laughed at, " but I tun
very hungry, and thar is barly enough beef for one
man!"
On hearing this sober assertion, those who had heard
the story laughed, but the rest looked rather aggrieved.
However, the Major continued his cooking, and when the
beef was done to a turn, he invited his visitors to the
feast, and the evening passed merrily with jests and camp
stories.
After the army went into winter-quarters, Nesmith hav-
ing resigned, T. R. Cornelius was elected Colonel. One
of his orders prohibited firing in camp, an order which as
a good mountaineer the Major should liave remembered.
But having been instructed to proceed to Salem without
delay, as bearer of dispatches, the Major committed the
" MARKING TIME."
425
error of firing his gun to see if it was in good condition
for a trip through the enemy's country. Shortly after he
received a message from his Colonel requesting him to
repair to his tent. The Colonel received him politely, and
invited him to breakfast with him. The aroma of coffee
made this invitation peculiarly acceptable — for luxuries
were scarce in camp — and the breakfast proceeded for
some time very agreeably. When Meek had breakfasted,
Colonel Cornelius took occasion to inquire if the Major
had not heard his order against firing in camp. •' Yes,"
said Meek. "Then," said the Colonel, "I shall be
obliged to make an example of you."
While Meek stood aghast at the idf ri of p^'r'iahment, a
guard appeared at the door of the tent, and he heard
what his punishment was to be, " Mark time for twenty
minutes in the presence of the whole regiment."
"When the command "forward! was given," says Meek,
" you might have seen somebody step off lively, the oflS.-
cer coanting it off, 'left, left.' But some of the regiment
grumbled more about it than T did. I just got my horse
and my dispatches and left for the lower country, and
when I returned I asked for my discharge, and got it."
And here ends the career of our hero as a public man.
The history of the young State, of which he is so old a
pioneer furnishes ample material for an interesting volume,
and will sometime be written by an abler than our sketchy
pen.
( ■; !ii
'•'■.'^: n'^rirV^T
N
f*i ',
VI Tr.,
PA.RT II.
OUR
CENTENNIAL INDIAN WAR
AKD THE
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
:
E ' '
INTRODTJCTION.
The reader of the foregoing pages can hardly have
failed to observe, that the region east of the Big Horn
Mountains, including the valleys of the Yellovvrstone,
Big Horn, Powder, and Rosebud Rivers, was the
favorite haunt of the Rocky Mountain hunters and
trappers — the field of many of their stirring adventure*
and hardy exploits. Here was the " hunters' para-
dise," where they came to secure game for food and
to feed their animals on the nutritious bark of the
cottonwoods ; here they assembled at the Summer ren-
dezvous, to exchange their peltries for supplies ; and
here, ofttiraes, was established their winter camp, with
its rough cheer, athletic sports, and wild carousals.
Here, also, between the plains and the mountains,
was the dark and sanguinary ground where terrific and
deadly combats were fought between the Delawares,
Iroquois, Cro ws, and Blackfeet, and between the trap-
pers and Indians ; and here, fifty years later, were en-
acted scenes of warfare and massacre which cast a gloom
over the festivities of our Centennial anniversary.
The recent campaign against the hostile Sioux was
over the identical gi-ound where the fur-traders roamed
intent on beaver-skins and adventure ; and it is be-
lieved that some account thereof, and a sketch of the
renowned Indian fighter who perished on the Little
Big Horn, may appropriately supplement the story of
the Mountain-men.
■ *!
CONTENTS.
C>I -» P T E R I .
Our Centennial War with tlio Sioux- Scene of the Campaign — General
Aspect of the Country — The hoatile Indian* and tlieir Grievnnees —
The People of the Frontier— The Treaty of 18G8— Tlie Invasion of
the Ulaclc Hills— Sitting Bull — Immediate Causes of the War — The
Indians Warned and Threatened— The Warning Disregarded — An
Appeal to Arms— Bishop Whipple on the Roaming Indians, -
CHAPTER II.
General Crook's First Expedition — The March Northward — Reynolds
Follows a Trail— Camp of Crazy Horse Discovered and Attacked—
The Battle of Powder River — Return to Fort Fetterman— Crook's
Second Expedition— On the Head Waters of Tongue River — Friendly
Crows— Battle of the Rosebud — Retreat to Goose Creek Camp,
CHAPTER III.
Gen. Terry's Expedition — March from Fort Lincoln — Rendezvous on
the Yellowstone — The Montana Column — Reno's Scouting Party
Discovers a Trail— The Seventh Cavalry Start up the Rosebud-
Custer Discovers an Indian Village and Advances to Attack,
CHAPTER IV.
Gibbon's Troops Cross the Yellowstone — March up the Big Horn — A
Smoke Cloud — An Omen of Victory — Crow Scouts — Indians in Front
—A Night's Bivouac on the Little Big Horn — Site of a deserted
Village- Evidences of Conflict — A breathless Scout — Intrenched
Cavalry — Reno Relieved — "Where is Custer?" . . .
CHAPTER V.
Custer's last Battle — R evouiHona of the Battle-field — Theories as to the
Engagement — Custei and liis OflScers— Cupt. Tom Custer — Boston
Custer — Armstrong .""ptJ — Jdurial of the Slain — Retreat to the
Yellowstone — Story oi ^'ustt^r's Scout "Curley" — Death of Custer, -
CHAPTER'VI.
Reno's Battles — His Charge down the Valley, and Retreat to the Bluffs
— Benteen's Battalion — A terrific Assault — Holdint^ the Fort — Volun-
teer Water Carriers — Removal of Indian Village — Approach of Terry
—Statements of Benteen and Godfrey — A Scout's Narrative,
CHAPTER VII.
Kill Eagle at Sitting Bull's Camp— His Account of the Battles with
Custer and Reno— "We have Killed them all "—What Buck Elk Saw,
Paoi
20
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
CritioiBint on the Conduct of Reno and Benteen — Reno's Defence—
What Benteen Saya — Gen. Sheridan on the Custer Disaitter, -
56
CHAPTER IX.
The Midsummer Campaign — Adrentures of a Scouting Party — Running
the Gauntlet — Ind'an Allies — Hazardous Service— Junction of Terr"
and Crook— Following the Trail— At the Mouth of Powder River-.
Crook StarU for the Black Hills— f^hort Rations— fiirttle of SUm
Buttes — The Chief American Horse— Dead wood— Terry at Glcndive
Creek — A Chase after Sitting Bull— Close of the Campaign— Long
Dog's Reconnoitering Party, - • • • . . <||
CHAPTER X.
Autumn on the Yellowstone— Gallant Defence of a Wagon Train— A
Letter from Sitting Bull— A Flag of Trace— Col. Miles and Sitthig
Bull Hare a " Talk " between the Lines— An Excitkig Scene— The
Council Disperses — ^The Troops Advance- A Battle and its Results
— Escape of Sitting Bull— Surrender of Chiefs as Hostages, - • 70
CHAPTER XI.
Terry and Crook at the Sioux Agencies — The Agency Indians Disarmed
and Dismounted — A Gleam of Daylight — What became of the Ponies
—Red Clotid Deposed- Spotted Tail Declared Chief 8«ebem-'^li.
Crook's Address to Hit Troops, - *■ - <• • 7T
CHAPTER XII.
Winter Operations— Crook's Expedition- Col. McKenzie on the Trail
— A Night's March — A Charge down a Canyon — Destruction of a
Cheyenne Village— Life at the Tongue River Cantonment— Miles'
Excursion Northward- Capture of Sitting Bull's Camp— An Urtfbr-
tunate Afikir— Massacre of Five Chiefs— Treacherous Crows— Win-
ter March Southward— Desperate Battle in the Wolf Monntains—
Defeat of Craxy Horse- Red Horse Surtenders— His Story of th«
Big Horn Battles— Spotted Tail's MissloA-^Surrender of Roman
Nose, Standii^ Elk and Craxy Horse, • • - -61
CHAPTER Xin.
Qvorge A. Custer— Early Youth— Cadet Life— S'rom West Point (6
Bull Run— On Kearny's Staff- Wades the Chickahominy— On Mc-
Clellan's Suff— Antietam-^On Pleasontori's Staff— Aldie— A General
at G«ttj»B<rarg— Pursues Lee— Falling Waters— Wounded— Cavalry
Engagement at Brandy Station— Marriagti, • • ' • M
CHAPTER XIV.
A Raid toward Richmond— With Sheridan in the Shenandoah Valley—
Opequnn Creek— Fisher's Hill— Commartdef of the Third Division-
Fight with Roaser— Sheridan's Army Surprised-^Defea* and Viatof^
^Thc Citvalry at Cedat Creek— The last gWM BaW - - • t8
CONTENTS. V
CHAPTER XV.
The laat Struggle for Biehmond— Caster at Dinwiddle and Five Forks
—Petersburg Evacuated — The Pursuit of Lee— Jetersville — Sailor's
Creek— Appomattox— A Flag of Truce— Custer's Address to His
Soldiers— The Great Parade— A M^jor General— Texas— Negotia-
tion with Eomero, - - - - - - -106
CHAPTER XVI.
The Seventh Cavaby — Hancock's Expedition — Tricky Indians- A
Scout on the Plains— Camp Attacked by Indians— A Fight for the
Wagon Train— The Kidder Massacre- Court Martialed — Sully's
Expedition— Battle of the WashiU— Death of Black Kettle— Fate of
Mnjo' Elliot— Night Retreat— March to Fort Cobb— Lone Wolf and
Satanta — After the Cheyennes— Captive Women Recovered, - 118
CHAPTER XVII.
The Yellowstone Expedition— Road-hunters — A Siesta — Dashing
Indians— A Trap— Fearful Odds— Rapid Volleys— Attack Renewed
—Reinforcements — The Foe Repulsed — A Tragedy — The Revenge of
Rain in the Face— Another Fight— Assigned to Fort Lincoln— Mrs.
Custer, - - - 121
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Campaign of 1876 — The Dakota Column— The Babcock Investiga-
tion— ^The Congressional Committee — Grant's Displeasure — Appeal
to the President— Custer's last Campaign, - . . . 1S6
CHAPTER XIX.
Reminiscences of General Custer- Personal Characteristics, • • 189
CHAPTER XX.
The Indian Commission of 1876— Purchase of the Black Hills— Indian
Orators— Speeches of Red Cloud, Spotted Tail, Blue Teeth, Running
Antelope, Two Bears, Red Feather, Swan, White Ghost, etc., • ISS
28
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THE INDIAN WAR.
CHAPTER I.
THE SIOUX TRIBES — CAUSES OF THE WAR.
The scene of the campaign against the hostile
Indians in IS'TG, was the rugged, desolate, and par-»
tially unexplored region lying between the Big Horn
and Powder Rivers, and extending from the Big Horn
Mountains northerly to and beyond the Yellowstone
River. This region is the most isolated and inaccess-
ible of any l3ang east of the Rocky Mountains, and is
admirably adapted for Indian warfare and defense.
Several rivers, tributaries of the Yellowstone, flow
through it, and it abounds in creeks, ravines, and
canyons. It is the hereditary country of the Crows,
who for generations defended it against marauding
tribes of Blackfeet.
A vivid description of the general aspect of the
country and of the hardships and perils of our soldiers,
has been given by Col. Nelson A. Miles, of the Fifth
Infantry, in a letter written from the mouth of the
Powder River. "No service," he says, "is more
thankless or dangerous than contending against these
treacherous savages, and if you will come out and
learn the real sentiment of the army, you will find
the officers of the army the strongest advocates of any
peace policy that shall be just and honorable. You
will find us out here, five hundred miles from railroad
communication, in as ban'en, desolate and worthless a
1' • >'V
8
THE SCENE OF THE CAMPAIGN.
HA
ill!'
country as the sun si: ines upon — volcanic, broken, and
almost impassable — so rugged as to make our granite
hills of Vermont and New Hampshire appear in com-
parison as pleasant parks. Jagged and precipitous
cliffs; naiTow and deep arroyos filled with massive
boulders ; alkali water, or for miles and miles none
at all ; and vegetation of cactus and sage-bushes, will
represent to you, feebly indeed, the scene of the
present campaign, in which we are contending against
the most powerful, warlike, and best-armed body
of savages on the American Continent, armed and
mounted partly at the expense of the Government,
and fully supplied with the most improved magazine
guns and tons of metallic ammunition."
"The brave mariner," wrote a newspaper corre-
epondent, "on the trackless ocean without compass,
is no more at the mercy of wind and wave than Terry's
army, out upon this vast trackless waste, is at the
mercy of his guides and scouts. The suu rises in the
east, shines all day upon a vast expanse of sage-brush
and grass, and, as it sets in the west, casts its dull rays
into a thousand ravines that neither man nor beast
can cross. The magnet always points north ; ' ut
whether one can go either nonh or south can be de-
cided only by personal effort. An insignificant turn
to the wrong side of a little knoll or buffalo-wallow
ofttimes imperceptibly leads the voyager into ravine
after ravine, over bluff after bluff, until at last he
stands on the edge of a yawning canyon, hundreds of
ffeet in depth and with perpendicular walls. Nothing
is left for him to do but to retrace his steps and find
au accessible route."
The hostile Indians with whom our soldiers have
had to contend are no despicable foe ; on the contrary
CHARACTER OF THE FOB.
9
)s and find
they are quite able, in frontier warfare, to cope with
disciplined troops. They fight in bodies, under skilled
leaders, and have regular rules which they observe in
battle, on their marches, and in their camps, " They
have systems of signalling and of scouting, of posting
sentinels and videttes, and of herding their animals."
They are remarkably expert horsemen, and are so de-
pendent on their steeds, that " a Sioux on foot is a
Sioux warrior no longer." Gen. Crook testifies to
their adroitness and skill as follows : —
« When the Sioux Indian was anned with a bow and arrow be
was more formidable, fighting as he does most of the time on
horseback, than when he came into possession of the old fash-
ioned muzzle loading rifle. But when he came into possession of
the breech loader and metallic catridge, which allows him to load
and fire fVom his horse with perfect ease, he became at once ten
times more formidable. With the Improved arms I have seen
our friendly Indians, riding at fViU speed, shoot and kill a wolf,
also on the run, while it is a rare thing that our troops can hit an
Indian on horseback though the soldier may be on his feet at the
time.
" The Sioux is a cavalry soldier from the time he has iatell!-
gcnce enough to ride a horse or fire a gun. If he wishes to dis-
mount, his hardy pony, educated by long usage, will graze
around near where he has been left, ready when his master wants
to mount either to move forward or escape. Even with their
lodges and families they can move at the rate of fifty miles per
day. They are perfectly familiar with the country, have their
spies and hunting parties out all the tim'3 at distances of from
twenty to fifty miles each way from their villages, know the
number and movements of all the troops that may be operating
against them, just about what *^h'^y can probably do, and hence
can choose their own time? and pltouc? of conflict or avoid it
altogether."
The primary causes of the hostilities of the Indians
which made this campaign and previous ones against
them necessary, extend far back and are too numerous
10
PRINCIPAL INDIAN GRIEVANCES.
i M
to be here fully stated. The principal Indian griev-
ances however, for which the government is responsi-
ble, are a failure to fulfil treaties, encroachment on
reserved territories, and the dishonesty of agenta.
Col. Miles speaks of our relationship with the Indians
for the last fifty years, as the dark page in our history,
•which, next to African slavery, has done more to dis-
grace our government, blacken our fair name, and
reflect upon our civilization, than aught else. It has,
he says, been a source of corruption and a disturbing
element, unconfined to any one political party or class
of individuals.
Wendell Phillips asserts that the worst brutality
which prurient malice ever falsely charged the Indian
•with, is but weak imitation of what the white man has
often inflicted on Indian men, women and children;
and that the Indian has never lifted his hand against
us until provoked to it by misconduct on our part,
compared with which, any misconduct of his is but
dust in the balance.
The great difference in the condition and character
of the Indians over the Canada line and our own,
can only be accounted for by the different treatment
they have received. The Canadian Indians are, on
the whole, a harmless, honest people, who, though
they are gradually disappearing before the white
man, bear him no ill-will, but rather the contrary.
Bishop Whipple of Minnesota, an earnest advocate
of the peace policy, draws the following contrast : —
" Here are two pictures — on one side of the line a nation has
spent $500,000,000 in Indian war ; a people who have not 100
miles between the Atlantic and the Pacific which has not been
the scene of an Indian massacre ; a government which has not
passed twenty years without an Indian war; not one IndiM
tribe to whom it has given Christian civilization; and which
THE PEOPLE OF THE FRONTIER.
11
celebrates its centennial year by another bloody Indian war. On
the other side of the line there is the same greedy, dominant
Anglo-Saxon race, and the same heathen. They have not spent
one dollar in Indian war ; they have had no Indian massacres.
Why? In Canada the Indian treaty calls these men ' the Indian
subjects of her Majesty.' When civilization approaches them
they are placed on ample reservations ; they receive aid in civil-
ization ; they have personal rights of propertj- ; they are ame-
nable to law and are protected by law ; thej' have schools, and
Christian people delight to give them their best men to teach
them the religion of Christ. We expend more than one hundred
dollars to their one in caring for Indian wards."
The results of the Indian disturbances, whatever
their causes, have borne heavily on the hardy and en-
terprising settlers along the border. Of these citizens
Gen. Crook says : —
♦' I believe it is wrong for a Government as great and power-
fVil as ours not to protect its frontier people from savages. I do
not see why a man who has the courage to come out here and
open the way for civilization in his own country, is not as much
entitled to the protection of his Government as anybody else.
I am not one of those who believe, as many missionaries sent
out here by well-meaning eastern socities do, that the people of
the frontiers are cut-throats, thieves, and murderers. I have
been thrown among them for nearly 25 years of my life, and
believe them to compare favorably in energj-, intelligence and
manhood with the best of their eastern brethren. They are
mercilessly plundered by Indians without any attempt being
made to punish the perpetrators, and when they ask for protec-
tion, they are told by some of our peace commissioners sent out
to make fUrther concessions to the Indians, that they have no
business out here anyhow. I do not deny that my sympathies
have been with the frontier people in their unequal contest
against such obstacles. At the same time I do not wish to be
understood as the unrelenting foe of the Indian."
The Sioux Indians, embracibg several tribes, are
the old Dakotahs, long known as among the bravest
and most warlike aboriginals of this continent. They
'imiM
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INVASION OF THE BLACK HILLS.
' y ; n
if
were steadily pushed westward by the tide of civili-
zation to the Great Plains north of the Platte, where
they claimed as their own all the vast region west of
the Missouri as far as they could roam or fight their
way. They resisted the approach of all settlers and
opposed the building of the Pacific Railroad.
In 1867, Congress sent out four civilians and three
array officers as Peace Commissioners, who, in 1868^
made a treaty with the Sioux, whereby for certain
payments or stipulations, they agreed to surrender
their claims to a vast tract of country, to live at peace
with their neighbore, and to restrict themselves to a
territory bounded south by Nebraska, west by the
104th meridian, and north by the 46th parallel of
latitude — a territory as large as the State of Michigan.
" They had the solemn pledge of the United States
that they should be protected in the absolute and
peaceable possession of the country thus set apart for
them ; and the constitution makes such treaties the
highest of all authorities, and declares that they are
binding upon eveiy citizen."
In the western part of the Sioux territory, lying^
between the tv^o forks of the Cheyenne River, is the
Black Hills country with an area of four or fivfr
thousand square miles. Of the interior of this region
up to 1874 nothing was known excepting fi'om the
indefinite reports of hunters who had penetrated
therein. The arrival at a trading post of Indians who
ofEered gold-dust for sale which they said was pro-
cured at the Black Hills, caused much excitement ; and
a military expedition of 1200 men was sent from Fort.
Lincoln in July 1874', to explore the Hills and ascer-
tain if gold existed there. As was expected, no hos-
tile enemy were encountered by the large expedition
THE TREATT OF 1M&
18
which thus invaded the Indian territory. A few
lodges of Indians were met in the Hills, and they ran
away notwithstanding friendly overtures were made.
An attempt was made to lead the pony of one
mounted Indian to headquarters, but he got away,
and a shot was fired after him which, says General
Custer, wounded either the Indian or his pony a»
blood was found on the ground.
The geologists of the expedition reported that there
was gold in the Black Hills, and miners and others
began to flock thither. In 1875, troops were sent to
remove the trespassers on the Indian reservation, but
as fast as they compelled or persuaded the miners to
go away others came to fill their places ; and at the
present date there are more settlers there than ever
before.
Of the treaty of 1868 and the so-called peace policy
then inaugurated various opinions are entertained.
Gen, Shei-man, a member of the commission, in his
report for 1876, says: —
"The commission had also to treat with other tribes at the south ;
viz, — the Cheyennes, Arapahoes, Kiowas and Commaches ; wero
engaged for two years in visiting and confering with these
scattered bands ; and finally, in 1868, concluded many treaties,,
which were the best possible at that date, and which resulted in
comparative peace on the Plains, by defining clearly the bound-
aries to be thereafter occupied by the various tribes, with th&
annuities in money, provisions, and goods to be paid the Indiana
for the relenquishment of their claims to this vast and indefinite
region of land. At this time th3 Sioux nation consisted of
many distinct tribes, and was estimated at 50,000, of whom some
8,000 were named as hostiles.
"These Indians, as all others, were under the exclusive jurisdic-
tion of the Indian Bureau, and only small garrisons of soldiers
were called for at the several agencies, such as Red Cloud and
Spotted Tail on the head of the White Earth River in Nebraska
(outside their reservation), and at Standing Rock, Cheyenne^
14
BISHOP WHIPPLE ON THE PEACE POLICY.
i
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an(1 'vrow Creek on the Missouri River, to protect the peraoni of
tlie agents and their euiployca. About these several ngencieg
were grouped the several bands of Sic ix under various namea
receiving food, clothing, etc., and undergoing the process of civili.
zation ; but from the time of the Peace Commisssou of 1868 to
the date of this report, a number of Sioux, recognized as hostile
or ' outla«vs,' had remained out under the lead of Sitting Bull and
a few other chiefs."
" The so-called peace policy," says Bishop Whipple, " was
commenced when we were at war. The Indian tribes were
either openly hostile, or sullen and turbulent. The new po^.t,j
was a marvellous success. I do honestly believ" that it has
done more for the civilization of the Indians than all which tlie
Government has done before. Its only weakness was that the
system was not reformed. The new work was Ottered by tU
the faults and traditions of the old polic}'. The nation left
800,000 men living within our own borders without a vestige of
government, without personal rights of property, without the
slighest protection of person, property, or life. We persisted In
telling these heathen tribes that they were independent nations.
We sent out the bravest and best of our offlcers, some who had
grown gray in the service of the country ; mon whose slightest
word was as good as their bond — we sent them because the In-
dians would not doubt a soldier's honor. They made a treafy,
and they pledged the nation's faith that no white man should
enter that territory. I do not discuss its wisdom. The Exeon-
tive and Senate ratifled it. ... A violation of its plain
provisions was an act of deliberate perjurj'. In the words of
Gen. Sherman, ' Civilization made its own compact with the
weaker party ; it was violated, but not by the savage.' The
whole world knew that we violated that treaty, and the reason
of the failure of the negotiations of last j'ear was that our own
commissioners did not have authority from Congress to offer the
Indians more than one-third of the sum they were already receiv-
ing under the old treaty."
" The Sioux Nation," says Gen. Crook, in his report of Sept.
1876, " numbers manj' thousands of warriors, and they have
been encouraged in their insolent overbearing conduct by the
fact, that those .who participi?t,ec' '. ne wholesale massacre of
the innocent people in Mlnnesot''. O^nng the brief period that
OEN. CROOK ON INDIAN AFFAIRS.
15
preceded their removal to their present locjition, never received
adeciuate punislitnont therefor. Fuliuwing hard iipua and as the
apparent result of the massacre of over eighty ofllccrs and men of
the array at Fort Phil Keorney, the Government abandoned three
of it8 military posts, and made a treaty of unparalleled liberality
with the perpetrators of tht "rimes, against whom any other
nation would have prosecuted k gorous war.
" Since that time the rcserv it.sns, instead of being the abode
of loj'ttl Indians holding t o tc^ "i of thi'ir agreement sacred,
have been nothing but nests of 'Usloyulty to their treaties and
the Government, and scourges to the people whose misfortune it
has been to bo within i-he reach of the endurance of their ponies.
And in this connection, I rcgrtt to say, thej- have been materially'
aided by sub-agents who have disgraced a bureau established for
the propagation of peace and good will, man lo man.
" What is the loyal condition of mind of a lot of savages, who
will not allow the folds of the flog of the country to float over
the very sugar, coffee ond beef, tlie^- are kind enough to accept
at the bands of the nation to which tlioy have thus far dictated
their own terms ? Such has uecn the condition of things at the
Red Cloud Agency.
" The hostile bands roamed over a vast extent of Country',
making the Agencies their base of supplies, their recruiting and
ordinance depots, and werp so closely connected by intermarriage,
interest and common cause with the Agency Indians, that it was
ditflcult to determine where the line of peaceably disposed ceased
and the hostile commenced. They have, without interruption,
attacked persons at home, murdered and scalped them, stolen
their stock — in fact violated every leading feature in the treaty.
Indeed, so great were their depredations on the stock belonging
to the settlers, that at certain times they have not had suflQcient
horses to do their ordinary farming work — all the horses being
concentrated on the Sioux Reservation or among the bands which
owe allsgiance to what i& called the Sioux Nation. In the winter
months these renegade baiids dwindle down to a comparatively
small number ; while in summer the}' are recruited by restless
spirits fVom the different reservations, attracted b}' the oppor-
tunity to plunder the frontiersman, so that bj- midsummer the}'
become augmented ft-om small bands of one hundred to thousands.
" In fact, it was well known that the treaty of 1868 bed been
regarded by the Indians as an instrument binding on us but not
16
DELEGATE STEELE ON THE TREATY.
4 !
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|-;-r
bin<}ing on them. On the part of the GoTernment, notwithstand.
ing the utter disregard bj' the Sioux of the terms of the treaty,
stringent orders, euforeed by military power, bad been issued
prohibiting settlers from trespassing upon the country known u
the Black Hills. The people of the country against whom the
provisions of the treaty were so rigidly enforced naturally com-
plained that if they were required to observe this treaty, some
effort should be made to compel the Indians to observe it
likewise.
" The occupation by the settlers of the Black Hills country had
nothing to do with the hostilities which have been in progress.
In fact, by the continuous violations by these Indians of the
treaty referred to, the settlers wdre fbrnished with at least a
reasonable excuse for such occupation, in that a treaty so long
and persistently violated by the Indians themselves, should not
be quoted as a valid instrument for the preventing of such occu-
pation. Since the occupation of the Black Hills there has not
been any greater number of depredations committed by the
Indians than i>revious to such occupation ; in truth, the people
who have gone to the Hills have not suffered any -more and
probably not as much from Indians, as they would had they
remained at their homes along the border."
" In 1868," says Wm. R. Steele, delegate from Wyoming, «*the
United States made a treaty with the Sioux Nation, which was
a grave mistake, if it was not a national dishonor and disgrace ;
that treaty has been the foundation of all the difficulties in the
Sioux countrj'. In 186G, Gen. Pope established posts at Fort
Phil Kearney, Beno, and Fort Smith, so as to open the road to
Montana and protect the country and friendly Crows from the
hostile Sioux. In keeping these posts and opening that road,
many men, citizens and soldlei's, had been killed. Notable
among the actions that had taken place was the massacre of
Fetterraan and his command at Fort Phil Kearney ; and yet
after these men had sacrificed their lives, the Government went
to work and made a treaty by which it ignominiously abandoned
that country to these savages, dismantling its own forts, »nd
leaving there the bones of men who had laid down theii lives in
the wilderness. Was it to be wondered at, ilnder these circum-
stances, that Sitting Bull and his men believed they were supe-
rior to the general government? Any body who knows anything
PRESIDENT GRANT ON THE PEACE POLICY.
It
about Indian nature k..ow8 that the legitimate result of that cow-
ardly policy of peace at any price, was to defer only the evil
day which has now come upon us. Since that time the Sioux
have been constantly depredating on the frontiers of Nebraska,
Wyoming and Montana, and more men have fallen there in the
peacef\il vocations of civil life, without a murmer being heard,
than fell under the gallant Custer. The friendly Crows have
been raided with every full moon ; so with the Shoshones ; and at
last these outrages have become so great and so long continued
that even the peaceable Indian Department could not stand them
any longer, and called on the military arm of the Government to
punish these men."
President Grant, in his message of December, 1876, uses the
following language : — "A policy has been adopted towards the
Indian tribes inhabiting a large portion of the territory of the
United States, which has been humane, and has substantially
ended Indian hostilities in the whole land, except in a portion of
Nebraska, and Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana territories, the
Black Hills region, and approaches thereto. Hostilities there
have grown out of the avarice of the white man, who has vio-
lated onr treaty stipulations in his search for gold, The question
might be asked, why the Government had not enforced obedience
to the terms of the treaty prohibiting the occupation of the
Black Hills region by whites? The answer is simple. The first
immigrants to the Black Hills were removed by troops, but
rumors of rich discoveries of gold took into that region increased
numbers. Gold has actually been found in paying quantity,
and an effort to remove the miners would only result in the de-
sertion of the bulk of the troops that might be bent there to
remove them."
The causes and objects of the military operations
against the Sioux in 1876, as stated by the Secretary
of War in a letter to the President dated July 8th,
1876, w«re in part as follows: —
*' The present tnilitary operations are not against the Sioux
nation at all, but against certain hostile parts of it which defy
the Government, and are undertaken at the special request of
the bureau of the Government charged with their supervision,
and wholly to make the civilization of the remainder possible.
mm ..
if
hi
18
THE INDIANS WARNED.
1
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No part of these operations are on or near the Sioux reservation.
The accidental discovery of gold on the western border of the
Sioux reservation and the intrusion of our people thereon have
not caused this war, and have only complicated it by the uncer-
tainty of numbers to be encountered. The young warriors love
war, and frequently escape their ager-is Lo go to the hunt' or war
path — their only idea of the object of life. The object of these
military expeditions was in the interest of the peaceful parts of
the Sioux nation, supposed to embrace at least nine-tenths of the
whole, and not one of these peaceful treaty Indians) has been
molested by the military authorities."
Of the hostile Indians referred to by the Secretary
of War, Hon. E. P. Smith, Commissioner of Indian
Affairs, reported Nov. Ist, 1875 : — "It will probably
be found necessary to compel the Northern non-
treaty Sioux, under the leadership of Sitting Bull,
who have never yet in any way recognized the United
States Government, except by snatching rations occar
sionally at an agency, and such outlaws from the
several agencies as have attached themselves to these
same hostiles, to cease marauding and settle down, as
the other Sioux have done, at some designated point."
Soon afterwards, Indian Inspector E. C. Watkins
addressed the Commissioner respecting these Indians^
as follows : — " The true policy in my judgment is to
send troops against them in winter, the sooner the
better, and whip them into subjection. They richly
merit punishment for their incessant warfare and their
numerous murders of white settlers and their fami-
lies, or white men whenever found unarmed."
Early in December, by the advice of the Secretary
of the Interior, Commissioner Smith directed that
runners be sent out to notify " said Indian Sitting
Bull, and others outside their reservation, that they
must move to the reservation before the 3 Ist day of
January, 1876 ; that if they neglect or refuse so to
THE WARNING DISREGARDED.
1^
move, they will be reported to the War Department
as hostile Indians, and that a military force will be
sent to compel them to obey the order of the Indian
officer." Kespecting this order to the Indians, Bishop
Whipple, in a letter to the New York Trihmie, says : —
"There was an inadequate supply of pro violins at the agen-
cies that Fall, and the Indians went out to their unceded territory
to hunt. They went as they were accustomed to do— with the
consent of their agents and as provided by the treaty. * ♦ »
The Indians had gone away from tha agencies to secure food,
and skins for clothing. The United States had set apei-t this very
country as a hunting-ground for them forever. E'ght month*
after this order to return or be treated as hostile, Congress
appropriated money for the seventh of thirty installments for
these roaming Indians. It was impossible for the Indians to obey
the order. No one of the runners sent out to inform the Indians,
was able to return himself by the time appointed ; yet Indian
women and children were expected to travel a treeless desert,,
without food or proper clothing, under the penalty of death."
As the order and warning were disregarded by the
Indians, the Secretary of the Interior notified the Sec-
retary of War, Feb. 1st, 1876, that "the time given
him (Sitting Bull) in which to return to an agency
having expired, and advices received at the Indian
Office being to the effect that Sitting Bull still refuses
to comply with the direction of the Commissioner,
the said Indians are hereby turned over to the War
Departihent for such action on the part of the army
as you may deem proper under the circumstances."
By direction of Lieut. General Sheridan, Com-
mander over the vast extent of territory included in
the Military Division of Missouri, Brig. Gen. George
Crook, Commander of the Department of the PI tte,
an officer of great merit and experience in Indian
fighting, now undertook to reduce these Indian out-
laws to subjection, and made preparations for an expe-
dition against them.
Ps. >
)*'
I*
CHAPTER II.
BATTLES OF THE POWDER AND ROSEBUD.
General Crook started from Fort Fetterman, "W.
T., March 1st, 1876, at the head of an expedition
composed of ten companies of the 2d and 3d Cavahy
under Col. J. J. Reynolds, and two companies of the
4th Infantry, with teamsters, guides, etc., amounting
in all to nearly nine hundred men. His course was
nearly north, past the abandoned Forts Reno and
Phil. Kearney to Tongue River. He descended this
liver nearly to the Yellowstone, scouted Rosebud
River, and then changed his course to the south-east
toward Powder River. At a point on the head of
Otter Creek, Crook divided his command, and sent
Col. Reynolds with six companies of cavalr*^ ^^nd one
day's rations to follow the trail of two Indians dis-
covered that day in the snow.
Col. Reynolds moved at 5 p. m. of the 16th, and at
4.20 A. M., after a night's march of thirty miles, was
near the forks of Powder River. The following
extracts are copied from a letter written to the Neio
Y(/ih Trihune: —
*' A halt was called here and the column took Bhelter in a
ravine. No Area wore allowed to be kindled, nor even a match
lighted. The cold was intense and seemed to be at least 80*
below zero. The command remained here till about 6 o'clo<dc,
doing their uttermost to keep fVom iVeezing, the scouts meantime
going out to reconnoitre. At this hour they returned, reporting
CROOK'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
21
a lart^er and fresher trail leading down to tlie river which waa
about four miles distant. The column immediately started on
the trail. The approach to the river seemed almost impracticable.
Before reaching the final precipices which overlooked the river-
bed, the scouts discovered that a village lay in the valley at the
foot of the blutfs. It was now 8 o'clock. The sun shone brightly
through the cold frosty air.
" The column halted, and Noyes's battalion, 2d Cavalry, was
ordered up to the front. It consisted of Company I, Capt. Noyes,
and Company K, Capt. Egan. This battalion was ordered to
descend to the valley, and while Egan charged the camp, Noyes
was to cut out the herd of horses feeding close by and drive it
up the river. Capt. Moore's battalion of two companies was
ordered to dismount and proceed along the edge of the ridge to
a position covering the eastern side of the village opposite that
from which Egan was tc charge. Capt. Mills's battalion was
ordered to follow Egan dismounted, and support him in the en-
gagement which miglit follow the charge.
" These columns began the descent of the mountain, through
gorges which were almost perpendicular. Nearly two hours
were occupied in gettiug the horses of the charging columns
down these rough sides of the mountain, and even then, when a
point was reached where the men could mount their horses and
proceed toward the village in the naiTow valley beneath, Moore's
battalion had not been able to gain its position on the eastern
aide after clambering along the edges of the mountain. A few
Indians could be seen with the herd, driving it to the edge of
the river, but nothing indicated that they knew of our approach.
"Just at 9 o'clock Capt. Egan turned the point of the mount-
ain nearest the river, and first in a walk arid then in a rapid trot
started for the village. The company went first in column of
twos, but when within 200 yards of the village tlie command ' Left
front into line * was given, and with a yell they rushed into the
encampment. Capt. Noyes had in the'meantime wheeled to the
right and started the herd up the river. With the yell of the
charging column the Indians sprang up as if by magic and
poured in a rapid fire from all sides. Egan charged through
and through the village before Moore's and Mills's battalions got
within supporting distance, and finding things getting very hot,
formed his line in some high willows on the south side of the
camp, from which he poured in rapid volleys upon the Indians.
29
22
THE VILLAGE OF CRAZY HORSE DESTROYED.
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*' Up to this time the Indians supposed that one company was
all they had to contend with, but when the other battalions
appeared, rapidly advancing, deployed as skirmishers and
pouring in a galling fire of musketry, the}' broke on all sides and
took refuge in the rocks along the side of the mountain. The
camp, consisting of 110 lodges, with immense quanties of robes,
fresh meat, and plunder of all kinds, with over 700 head of
iiorses were in our possession. The work of burning immedi-
ately began, and soon the whole encampment was in flames.
" After the work of destruction was completed the whole com-
mand moved rapidly up the river twenty miles to Lodgepole
Creek. This point was reached at nightfall by all except
Moore's battalion and Egan's company. Company £ was the
rear guard, and assisted Major Stanton and the scouts in bring-
ing up the herd of horses ; many of these were shot on the road,
and the remainder reached camp about 9 p. u. These troops
had been in the saddle for 86 hours, with the exception of five
hours during which they were fighting, and all, officers and men,
were much exhausted.
*' Upon arriving at Lodg-^pole, it was found that General Crook
and the other four companies and pack-train had not arrived,
so that everybody was supperless and without a blanket. The
night, therefore, was not a cheerful one, but not a murmur was
beard. The tired men lay upon the snow or leaned against a
tree, and slept as best they could on so cold a night. Saturday,
at noon. General Crook arrived. In the meantime a portion of
the herd of horses had straggled into the ravines, and fallen into
the hands of the Indians."
The village thus destroyed was that of Crazy Horse,
one of the avowedly hostile chiefs. " He had with
him," wrote Gen. Crook, " the Northern Cheyennes,
and some of the Minneconjous — probably in all one-
half of the Indians oft the reservations." The Indian
Ir s was unknovm. Four of Reynolds' men were
1 jled, and six men including one olficer were wound-
ed. The whole force subsequently returned to Fort
Fetterman, reaching there March 26th.
The results of this expedition were neither conclu»
M i
CROOK'S SECOND EXPEDITION.
23
mi
either condu*
sive or satisfactory. Therefore, Gen. Sheridan deter-
mined to proceed more systematically by concentric
movements. He ordered three distinct columns to
be prepared to move to a common centre, where the
hostiles were supposed to be, from Montana, from
Dakota, and from the Platte. The two former fell
under the command of Gen. Alfred H. Terry, Com-
mander of the Department of Dakota, and the letter
under Gen. Crook. These movements were to be
simultaneous, so that Indians avoiding one column
might be encountered by another.
Gen. Crook marched from Fort Fetterman on the
29th of May, with two battalions of the 2d and 3d
Cavalry under Lieut. Col. W. B. Royall, and a bat-
talion of five companies of the 4th and 9th Infantry
under Major Alex. Chambers, with a train of wagons,
pack-mules, and Indian scouts, all amounting to 47
oflScers and 1,000 men present for duty. This expe-
dition marched by the same route as the preceding
one, to a point on Goose Creek, which is the head of
Tongue River, where a supply camp was established
on June 8 th. During the preceding night a party of
Sioux came down on the encampment, and endeavored
to stampede the horses, bringing on an engagement
which resulted in the discomfiture and retreat of the
enemy. On the 14th, a band of Shoshones and Crows
— Indians unfriendly to the Sioux — joined Crook, and
w6re provided with arms and ammunition.
The aggressive column of the expedition resumed
the march forward on the morning of the 16th, leaving
the trains parked at the Goosd Creek camp. The
infantry were mounted on mules borrowed from the
pack-train, and each man carried his own eapplies
consisting of only three days' rations and one blanket
tW&M
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THK BATTLB OF THE ROSEBUD.
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At night, after marching about 35 miles, the little
army encamped between high bluffs at the head
waters of Rosebud River.
At 5 A. M. on the morning of the 1 7th the troops
started down the valley of the Rosebud, the Indian
allies marching in front and on the flanks. After
advancing about seven miles successive shots were
heard in fi'ont, the scouts came running in to report
Indians advancing, and Gen. Crook had hardly time
to form his men, before large numbers of warriors
fully prepared for a fight were in view.
The battle which ensued was on both banks of the
Rosebud, near the upper end of a deep canyon having
sides which were steep, covered with pine, and ap-
parently impregnable, through which the stream ran.
The Indians displayed a strong force at all points, and
contested the ground with a tenacity which indicated
that they were fighting for time to remove their vil-
lage, which was supposed to be about six miles down
the Rosebud at the lower end of the canyon, or
believed themselves strong enoL ;h to defeat their
opponents.
The officers and men of Crook's command behaved
with marked gallantry during the engagement. The
Sioux were finally repulsed in their bold onset, and
lost many of their bravest warriors ; but when they
fied they could not be pureued far without great
danger owing to the roughness of the country. The
Indian allies were full of enthusiasm but not very
managable, prefering to fight independently of orders.
Crook's losses were nine soldiers killed, and twenty-
one wounded, including Capt. Henry of the 8d
Cavalry. Seven of the friendly Indians were wound-
ed, and one waB killed.
ENCAMPMENT AT OOOSE CREEK.
25
Gen. Crook was satisfied that the number and
quality of the enemy required more men than he had,
and being encumbered with wounded he concluded
to retreat. The night was passed on the battle-field,
and the next day he started for his camp on Goose
Creek, which was reached June 19th. Couriers wer .,
sent to Fort Fetterman for reinforcements and sup-
plies, and the command remained inactive for several
weeks awaiting their arrival.
The battle of the Rosebud was fought not very far
iiom the scene of Custer's defeat a few days later,
and Gen. Crook concludes that his opponents were
the same that Custer and Reno encountered.
" It now became apparent," says Gen. Sheridan in
his report "that Gen. Crook had not only Crazy
Horse and his small band to contend with, but that
the hostile force had been augmented by large
numbers of the young warriors from the agencies
along the Missouri River, and the Red Cloud and
Spotted Tail agencies in Nebraska, and that the
Indian agents at these agencies had concealed the fact
of the departure of these warriors, and that in most
cases they continued to issue rations as though they
were present"
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CHAPTER III.
terry's expedition — OPENING OP THE OAMPAION.
General Terry left Fort Abraham Lincoln on the
Missouri River, May I7tli 1876, with his division, con-
sisting of the 7th Cavaliy under Lieut. Col. George
A. Custer, three companies of infantiy, a battery of
Gatling guns, and 45 enlisted scouts. His whole force,
exclusive of the wagon-train drivers, numbered about
1000 men. His march was westerly, over the route
taken by the Stanley expedition in 1873.
On the 11th of June, Terry reached the south bank
of the Yellowstone at the mouth of Powder River,
where by appointment he met steamboats, and estab-
lished his supply camp. A scouting party of six
companies of the 7th Cavalry under Major M. A. Reno
was sent out June 10th, which ascended Powfler
River to its forks, crossed westerly to Tongue River
and beyond, and discovered, near Rosebud River, a
heavy Indian trail about ten days old leading west-
ward toward Little Big Horn River. After follow-
ing this trail a short distance Reno returned to the
Yellowstone and rejoined his regiment, which then
marched, accompanied by steamboats, to the mouth
of Rosebud River where it encamped June 2l8t.
Communication by steamboats and scouts had pre-
viously been opened with Col. John Gibbon, whose
THE RENDEZVOUS ON THE TELL0W8T0NE.
27
B OAMPAION.
column was at this time encamped on the north side
of the Yellowstone, near by.
Col. Gibbon of the 7th Infantry had left Fort Ellis
in Montana about the middle of May, with a force
consisting of six companies of his regiment, and four
companies of the 2d Cavalry under Major J. S. Bris-
bin. He had marched eastward down the north
bank of the Yellowstone to the mouth of the Rose-
bud, where he encamped about June Ist.
Gen. Terry now consulted with Gibbon and Custer,
and decided upon a plan for attacking the Indians
who were believed to be assembled in large numbers
near Big Horn River. Custer with his regiment was
to ascend the valley of the Rosebud, and then turn
towards Little Big Horn River, keeping well to the
south. Gibbon's troops were to cross the Yellowstone
at the mouth of Big Horn River, and march up the
Big Horn to it& junction with the Little Big Horn,
to co-operate with Custer. It as hoped that the
Indians would thus be brought between the two
forces so that their escape would be impossible.
Col. Gibbon's column was immediately put in
motion for the mouth of the Big Horn. On the next
day, June 22d, at noon, Custer announced himself
ready to start, and drew out his regiment. It con-
sisted of 12 companies, numbering 28 officers and 747
soldiers. There were also a strong detachment of
scouts and guides, several civilians, and a supply train
of 186 pack mules. Gen. Terry reviewed the column
in the presence of Gibbon and Brisbin, and it was
pronounced in splendid condition. "The officers
clustered around Terry for a final shake of the hand,
the last good-bye was said, and in the best of spirits,
I
!\^
28
TERRY'S ORDERS TO CUSTER.
June 22d, 1876.
I
filled with high hopes, they galloped away — many of
them to their death."
Gen. TeiTy'a orders to Custer were as follows: —
Camp at the mouth ok Rosebud River,
Lieut. Col. Custer, 1th Cavalry.
Colonel : The Brigadier General Commanding directs tliat
as soon as your regiment can bo made read}' for tlio march, jou
proceed up tlie Rosebud in pursuit of tlio Indians wlioso trail >Yas
discovered b}' Major Reno a few days ago. It is, of course, im-
possible to give any definite instructions in regard to this move-
ment, and, were it not impossible to do so, the Department Com-
mander places too much confidence in your zeal, energy, and
ability to wish to impose upon you precise orders which might
hamper your action when nearly in contact with tlie enemy. He
will, however, indicate to you his own views of what your action
should be, and he desires that you should conform to them unless
you shall see sufficient reason for departing from them. He
thinks that you should proceed up the Rosebud until you ascer-
tain definitely the direction in which the trail above spoken of
leads. Should it be found (as it appears to be almost certain
that it will be found) to turn towards the Little Big Horn, ho
thinks that 3'ou should still proceed southward perhaps as far
as the head waters of the Tongue, and then turn toward the Little
Big Hern, feeling constantly, however, to your left, so as to pre-
clude the possibility of the escape of the Indians to the south or
south-east by passing around your left flank. The column of
Col. Gibbon is now in motion for the mouth of the Big Horn.
As soon as it reaches that point it will cross the Yellowstone,
and move up at least as far as the forks of the Big and Little
Big Horn. Of course its future movements must be controlled
by circumstances as they arise ; but it is hoped that the Indians,
if up on the Little Big Horn, may be so nearly inclosed by the
two columns that their escape will be impossible. The Depart-
ment Commander desires that on your way up the Rosebud yon
should thoroughly examine the upper part of Tulloch's Creek,
and that you should endeavor to send a scout through to Col.
Gibbon's column with Information of the result of your exan?ina-
tion. The lower part of this creek will be examined by a detach-
ment from Col. Gibbon's command- The supply steamer will
MARCH OF THE SEVENTH CAVALRT.
20
way— many of
be pushed iip the Big Horn as far as the forks of the river are
found to bo navigable for tliat space, and the Department Com-
mander, who will accompany the column of Col. Gibbon, desires
you to rci)ort to him there not later than the expiration of the
time for which your troops are rationed, unless in the meantime
you receive further orders. Respectfully, &c.,
E. W. Smith, Captain 18th Infantry,
Acting Assistant Adjutant GencraL
After proceeding southerly up the Hosebud for
about seventy miles, Custer, at 11 p. m. on the night
of the 24th, turned westerly towards Little Big Horn
River. The next morning while crossing the elevated
land between the two rivers, a large Indian village
was discovei*ed about fifteen miles distant, just across
Little Big Hora River. Custer with characteristic
promptness decided to attack the village at once.
One company was escorting the train at the reat.
The balance of the force was divided into three col-
umns. The trail they were on led down to the stream
at a point some distance south of the village. Major
Reno, with three companies under Capt. T. H. French,
Capt. Myles Moylan, and Lieut. Donald Mcintosh,
was ordered to follow the trail, cross the stream, and
charge down its north bank. Capt. F. W. Benteen^
with his own company and two others under Capt. T.
B. Weir and Lieut. E. 3. Godfrey, was sent to make a
detour to the south of Reno. The other five com-
panies of the regiment, under the immediate command
of Custer, formed the right of the little army.
On reaching the river Reno crossed it as ordered,
and Custer with his five -"mpanies turned northerly
into a ravine running ^ehind the bluflfe on the east
side of the stream.
' \i
CHAPTEK IV.
gibbon's maech up the big hoen eiver.
The supply steamer Far "West witli Gen. Terry
and Col. Gibbon on board, which steamed up the
Yellowstone on the evening of June 23d, overtook
Gibbon's troops near the mouth of the Big Horn
€arly on the morning of the 24th ; and by 4 o'clock
p. M. of the same day, the entire command with the
animals and supplies had been ferried over to the
south side of the Yellowstone. An hour later the
column marched out to and across TuUoch's Creek,
and then encamped for the night.
At 5 o'clock on the morning of the 25th, (Sunday)
the column was again in motion ; and after marching
29 miles over a country so rugged as to task the en-
durance of the men to the utmost, the infantry halted
for the night. Gen. Terry, however, with the cavalry
and the battery pushed on 14 miles further in hopes
of opening communication with Custer, and camped
at midnight near the mouth of the Little Big Horn.
Scouts sent out from Terry's camp early on the
morning of the 26th discovered three Indians, who
proved to be Crows who had accorapaniad Custer's
regiment. They i-eporied that a battle had been
fought and that the Indians were killing white men
in great numbers. Their story was not fully credited,
as it was not expected that a conflict w6uld occur bo
i
AN OMEN OF VICTORY.
81
;n eivee.
soon, or believed that serious disaster could have over-
taken so large a force.
The infantry, which had broken camp veiy early,
now came up, and the whole column crossed the
Little Big Horn and moved up its western valley.
It was soon reported that a dense hea\y smoke was
resting over the southern horizon far ahead, and in a
short time it became visible to all. This was hailed as
a sign that Custer had met the Indians, defeated them,
and burned their village. The weary foot soldiers
were elated and freshened by the sight, and pressed
on with increased spirit and speed.
Custer's position was believed to be not far ahead,
and efforts were repeatedly made during the after-
noon to open communication with him; but the scouts
who attempted to go through were met and driven
back by hostile Indians who were hovering in the
front. As evening came on, their numbers increased
and large parties could be seen on the bluffs hurrying
from place to place and watching every movement of
the advancing soldiers.
At 8:40 in the evening the infantry had marched
that day about 30 miles. The forks of tho Big Horn,
the place where Terry had requested Custer to report
to him, were many miles behind and the expected
messenger from Custer had not arrived. Daylight
was fading, the men were fatigued, and the column
was therefore halted for the night. The animals
were picketed, guards were set, and the weary men,
wrapped in their blankets and with their weapons
beside them, were soon asleep on the ground.
Early on the morning of the 27th the march uj^ the
Little Big Horn was resumed. The smoke cloud was
still visible and apparently but a short distance ahead.
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THE DESERTED VILLAGE.
Soon a dense grove of trees was reached and passed
througli cautiously, and then the head of the column
entered a beautiful level meadow about a mile in
width, extending along the west side of the stream
and overshadowed east and west by high bluffs. It
soon became apparent that this meadow had recently
been the site of an immense Indian village, and the
great number of temporary brushwood and willow
huts indicated that many Indians beside the usual
inhabitants had rendezvoused there. It was also evi.
dent that it had been hastily deserted. Hundreds of
lodge-poles, with finely-dressed buffalo-robes and other
hides, dried meat, stores, axes, utensils, and Indian
trinkets vere left behind; and in two tepees or
lodges still standing, were the bodies of nine Indians
who had gone to the " happy hunting-grounds."
Every step of the march now revealed some
evidence that a conflict had taken place not far
away. The dead bodies of Indian horses were seen,
and cavalry equipments and weai)()n8, bullet-pierced
clothing, and blood-stained gloves were picked up;
and at last the bodies of soldiers and their horses
gave positive proof that a disastrous battle had taken
place. The Crow Indians had told the truth.
The head of the column was now met by a breath*
less scout, who came running up with the intelli-
gence that Major Reno with a body of troops was in*
trenched on a bluff further on, awaiting relief. Th«
soldiers pushed ahead in the direction pointed out,
and soon came in sight of men and horses intrenched
on top of a hill on the opposite or east side of the
river. Terry and Gibbon immediately forded the
stream and rode toward the group. As they ap-
proached the top of the hill, they were welcom<*d by
RENO RELIEVED.
8b
lii
ses were seen.
hearty cheers from a swarm of soldiers who came out
of their intrenchments to meet their deliverers. The
scene was a touching one. Stout-hearted soldiers who
had kept bravely up during the hours of conflict and
danger now cried like children, and the pale fa^^es of
the wounded lighted up as hope revi red within them.
The story of the relieved men briefly told was as
follows : — After separating from Cu'^<-ci about noon,
June 2oth, (as related in the last chapter) Eeno pro-
ceeded to the river, forded it, and charged down its
west bank toward the village, meeting at first with
but little resistance. Soon however he was attacked
by such numbers as to be obliged to dismount his
men, shelter his horses in a strip of woods, and fight
on foot. Finding that they would soon be surrounded
and defeated, he again mounted his men, and charging
upon such of the enemy as obstructed his way, re-
treated across the river, and reached the top of a bluff
followed closely by Indians. Just then Benteen, re-
turning from his detour southward, discovered Reno's
perilous position, drove back the Indians, and joined
him on the hill. Shortly afterward, the company
which was escorting the mule train also joined Reno.
The seven companies thus brought together had been
subsequentlj' assailed by Indians ; many of the men
had been killed and wounded, and it was only by
obstinate resistance that they had been enabled to
defend themselves in an entrenched position. The
enemy had retired on the evening of the 26th.
After congratulations to Reno and his brave men
for their successful defence enquii'ies were made re-
specting Custer, but no one could tell where he was.
Neither he or any of his men had been seen since the
fight commenced, and the musketry heard from the
I '
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34
WHERE 18 CUSTER T
' I
direction he took had ceased on the afternoon of the
25th. It was supposed' by Reno and Benteen that he
had been repulsed, and retreated northerly towards
Terry's troops.
A search for Custer and his men was immediately
began, and it revealed a scene calculated to appal the
stoutest heart. Although neither Custer or any of
that part of his regiment which he led to combat were
found alive to tell the tale, an examination of their
trail and the scene of conflict enabled, their comrades
to form some idea of the engagement in which they
perished.
! '4 '
1 1
CHAPTER V.
OUSTER'S LAST BATTLE.
General Custer's trail, from the place where he
left Reno's and turned northward, passed along and
in the rear of the crest of hills on the east bank of
the stream for nearly three miles, and then led,
through an opening in the bluff, down to the river.
Here Custer had evidently attempted to cross over to
attack the village. The trail then turned back on
itself, as if Custer had been repulsed and obliged to
retreat, and branched to the northward, as if he had
been prevented from returning southerly by the way
he came, or had determined to retreat in the direction
from which Terry's troops were advancing.
Several theories as to the subsequent movements
of the troops have been entertained by persons who
visited the grounds. One is, that the soldiers in re-
treating took advantage of two ravines; that two
companies under Capt. T. W. Custer and Lieut. A.
E. Smith, were led by Gen. Custer up the ravine
nearest the river, while the upper ravine furnished a
line of retreat for the three companies of Capt. G. W.
Yates, Capt. M. W. Keogh, and Lieut. James Calhoun.
At the head of this upper ravine, a mile from the
river, a stand had been made by Calhoun's company ;
the skirmish lines were marked by rows of the slain
with heaps of empty cartridge shells before them, and
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86
THEORIES OF THE ENQAOEMENT.
Lieuts. Calhoun and Crittenden lay dead just behind
the files. Further on, Capt. Keogh had fallen sur-
rounded by his men ; and still further on, upon a
hill, Capt. Yates' company took its final stand. Here,
according to this theory, Yates was joined by what
remained of the other two companies, who had been
furiously assailed in the lower ravine ; and here Gen.
Custer and the last survivors of the five companies
met their death, fighting bravely to the end.
Another theory of the engagement is, that Custer
attempted to retreat up the lower ravine in columns
of companies ; that th . companies of Custer and Smitli
being first in the advance and last in the retreat, fell
first in the slaughter which followed the retrograde
movement ; that Yates' company took the position on
the hill, and perished there with Custer and other
officers; and that the two other companies, Keogh's
and Calhoun's, perished while fighting their way back
towards Keno — a few reaching the place where Custer
first struck the high banks of the river.
Still another theory is, that the main line of retreat
was by the upper ravine ; that Calhoun's company
was thrown across to check the Indians, and was the
first annihilated. That the two companies of Capt.
Custer and Lieut. Smith retreated from the place
where Gen. Custer was killed into the lower ravine,
and were the last survivors of the conflict.
Near the highest point of the hill lay the body of
General Custer, and near by were those of his brother
Captain Custer, Lieut. Smith, Capt. Yates, Lieut. "W.
V. Riley of Yates' company, and Lieut. W. W. Cooke.
Some distance away, close together, were found
another brother of Gen. Custer — Boston Custer, a
civilian, who had accompanied the expedition as
.; ^
CUSTER AND HIS OFFICBEd.
81
forage master of the 7tli Cavalry — and "his nephew
Armstrong Reed, a youth of nineteen, who was visit-
ing the General at the time the expedition started,
and accompanied it as a driver of the herd of cattle
taken along. The wife of Lieut. Calhoun was a
si^^ter of the Custer's, and she here lost her husband,
three brothers, and a nephew.
Other officers of Custer's battalion killed but not
already mentioned, were Asst. Surgeon L. W. Lord,
and Lieuts. H. M. Harrington, J. E. Porter, and J. G.
Sturgis. The last named was a West Point graduate
of 1875, and a son of General S. D. Sturgis, the Col-
onel of the 7th Cavalry, who had been detained by
other duties when his regiment started on this expedi-
tion. The bodies of the slain were rifled of valuables
and all were mutilated excepting Gen. Custer, and
Mark Kellogg — a correspondent of the New Yorh
Herald. Gen. Custer was clad in a buckskin suit ; and
a Canadian — Mr. Macdonald — was subsequently in-
formed by Indians who were in the fight, that for this
reason he was not mangkd, as they took him to be
some brave hunter accidentally with the troops.
Others believe that Custer was passed by from respect
for the heroism of one whom the Indians had learned
to fear and admire.
The dead were buried June 28th, where they fell,
Major Reno and the survivors of his regiment per-
forming the last sad rites over their comrades.
A retreat to the mouth of Big Horn River was now
ordered and successfully effected, the wounded being
comfortably transported on mule litters to the mouth
of the Little Big Horn, where they were placed on a
steamboat and taken to Fort Lincoln. Gibbon's
Cavalry followed the Indians for about ten miles, and
30
V Ir -it
t til *\
Ml 1 t^
1 If J ;
38
CURLEY'8 STORY OF THE MASSACRE.
ascertained that they had moved to the south and
west by several trails. A good deal of property had
been thrown away by them to lighten their marcli
and was found scattered about. Many of their dead
were also discovered secreted in ravines a long dis-
tance from the battle field.
At the boat was found one of Custer's scouts, wlio
had been in the fight — a Crow named Curley; his
story was as foljows : —
" Custer kept down the river on the north bank four miles,
after Ucno had crossed to the south side above. He thought
Reno would drive down the valley, to attack the village at the
upper end, while he (.Custer) would go in at the lower end,
Custer h:id to go further down the river and further away from
Reno than he wished on account of the steep bank along the
north side ; but at last he found a ford and dashed for it. The
Indians met him and poured in a heavy lire from across the nar-
row river. Custer dismounted to fight on foot, but could not
get his skirmishers over the stream. Meantime hundreds of
Indians, on foot and on ponies, poured over the river, which wus
only about three feet deep, and filled the ravine on each side of
Custer's men. Custer then fell back to some high ground behind
him and seized the ravines in his immediate vicinity. The Indi-
ans completely surrounded Custer and poured in a terrible fire
on all sides. They charged Custer on foot in vast numbers, but
were again and again driven back.
" The fight began about 2 o'clock, and lasted almost until the
sun went down over the hills. The men fought desperately, and
after the ammunition in their belts was exhausted went to their
saddlebags, got more and continued the fight. Custer lived until
nearly all his men had been killed or wounded, and went about
encouraging his soldiers to fight on. He got a shot in the left
side and sat down, with his pistol in his hand. Another shot
struck Custer in the breast, and he fell over. The last officer
killed was a man who rode a white horse — believed to be Lieut.
Cooke, as Cooke and Calhoun were the only officers who rode
white horses.
" When he saw Custer hopelessly surrounded he watched his
TERRY'S DESPATCH TO SHERmAN.
89
led he watched his
opportunity, got a Sioux blanket, put it on, and worked up a
ravine, and when the Sioux charged, he got among* them and
they did not know him from one of their own men. There were
soiue mounted Sioux, and seeing one fall, he ran to him, mount-
ed his pony, and galloped down as if going towards the white
men, but went up a ravine and got away. As he rode off he
saw, when nearly a mile ftom the battle field, a dozen or more
soldieia in a ravine, fighting with Sioux all around them. He
thinks all were killed, as they were outnumbered five to one, and
apparently dismounted. The battle was desperate in the ex-
treme, and more Indians than white men must have been killed."
The following extract is from a letter written to
Gen. Sheridan by Gen. Terry at his camp on the Big
Horn, July 2d :—
" We calculated it would take Gibbon's command until the
26th to reach the mouth of the Little Big Horn, and that the
wide sweep I had proposed Custer should make would require so
much time that Gibbon would be able to co-operate with him iu
attacking any Indians that might be found on the stream. I
asked Custer how long his marches would be. He said they
would be at the rate of about 30 miles a day. Measurements
were made and calculations based on that rate of progress. I
talked with him about his strength, and at one time suggested
that perhaps it would be well for me to take Gibbon's cavalry
and go with him. To the latter suggestion he replied : — that,
without reference to the command, he would prefer his own reg-
iment alone. As a homogeneous body, as much could be done
with it as with the two combined. He expressed the utmost
confidence that he had all the force that he could need, and I
shared his confidence. The plan adopted was the only one
which promised to bring the infantry into action, and I desired
to make sure of things by getting up every available man. I
offered Custer the battery of Gatling guns, but he declined it,
saying that it might embarrass him, and that he was strong
enough without it. The movements proposed by General Gib-
bon's column were carried out to the letter, and had the attack
been deferred until it was up, I cannot doubt that we should
have been auccescftil."
a I .;■
H
CHAPTER VI.
EENO'S BATTLES ON THE LITTLE BIG HOEN.
After the "battle in which Lieut. Col. Custer lost
his life, the coraraantl of the 7th Cavalry regiment de-
volved on Major Reno. The following is a copy of
Reno's official report to Gen. Terry, excepting that a
few unimportant paragraphs are omitted. It is dated
July 5th, 187G.
" The regiment left the camp at the mouth of Rosebud River,
after passing in review before the department commander, under
command of Brevet Major General G. A. Custer, Lieutenant
Colonel, on the afternoon of the 22d of June, and marched up
the Rosebud 12 miles and encamped. 23d — Marched up the
Rosebud, passing man}' old Indian camps, and following a vcn-
large lodge-pole trail, but not fresh, making 33 miles. 24th— The
march was continued up the Rosebud, the trail and signs fresh-
ening with every mile until we had made 28 miles, and we then
encamped and waited for information from the scouts. At 9.25
p. M., Custer called the officers together, and informed us that
be3'oi..l a doubt the village was in the valley of the Little Big
Horn, and that to reach it, it was necessary to cross the divide
between the Rosebud and Little Big Horn, and it would be im-
possible to do so in the daytime without discovering our march
to the Indians ; that we would prepare to move at 11 p. m. This
was done, the line of march turning from the Rosebud to the
right, up one of its branches, which headed near the summit of
the divide.
" About 2 A. M. of the 25th, the scouts told him that he could not
cross the divide before daylight. We then made coffee ami
rested for three hours, at the expiration of which time the march
was resumed, the divide crossed, and about 8 a. m. the command
RENO'S CHARGE DOWN THE VALLEY.
41
iE BIG HOEN.
was in the valley of one of the braiicliea of the Little Big Horn.
By this time Indians had been seen, and it wua certain tliat we
could not surprise them, and it was detennineil to move ut once
to the attack.
"Previous to this no division of the regiment had heoii nuide
since tlie order was issued on the Yellowstone, annulling wing
and battalion organizations. General Custer informed me he
would assign commands on tlie march. I was ordered by Lieut.
\y. W. Cooke, Adjutant, to assume command of Companies M,
A, and G ; Capt. Benteen of Companies II, D, and K ; Custer
retaining C, E, F, I, and L, uiuler his immediate command ; and
Company B, Capt. McDougall, being in rear of the pack train.
I assumed c«)mmand of the companies assigned to me, and with-
out any definite orders, moved forward with the rest of the col-
umn, and well to its left. I saw Benteen moving further to the
left, and, as they passed, he told me he had orders to move well
to the left, and sweep everything before him ; I did not see him
again until about 2:30 p. m. The command moved down the
creek towards the Little Big Horn Valley. Custer with five
companies on the right bank ; myself and three companies on
the left bank ; and Benteei, further to the left, and out of sigiit.
" As we approached a deserted village, in which was standing
one tepee, about 11 a. m., Custer motioned me to cross to him,
which I did, and moved nearer to his column, until about 12.30
A. M., when Lieut. Cooke camo to me and said the village was
only two miles ahead and running away. To ' move forward at as
rapid a gait as I thought prudent and to charge afterward, and
that the whole outfit would support me.' I think those were his
exact words. I at once took a fast trot, and moved down
about two miles, when I came to a ford of the river. I crossed
immediately, and halted about ten minutes or less, to gather the
battalion, sending word to Custer that I had everything in front
of me, and that they were strong.
" I deployed, and, with the Ree scouts on my left, charged
clown the valley, driving the Indians with great ease for about
2k miles. I, however, soon saw that I was being drawn into
some trap, as they certainly would fight harder, and especially as
we were nearing their village, which was still standing ; besides,
I could not see Custer or anj' other support ; and at the same time
the very earth seemed to grow Indians, and they were running
i
4S
THE RETREAT TO THE BLUFFS.
V\"\ !■.
I? 1 '!
toward me In swftrms, and from all directions. I saw I must
defend myself, and give up the attack mounted. This 1 did,
taking possession of a point of woods, wliich furnishc 1 near its
edge a shelter for the horses ; diHiuounted, and fought them ou
foot, making lieadway tlirough tlio woods. 1 soon found iiiysell"
in tho near vicinityof the village, saw that I was ilgliting odds of
at least five to one, and that my only hope was to get ont of tlie
woods, whore I would hooii have been surrounded, and gain some
high ground. I accomplished this by mounting and charging tlie
Indians between me and tho bluffs on the opposite side of tlie
river. In this charge First Lieut. Donald Mcintosh, Second
Lieut. Benjamin II. Hodgson, and Acting Assistant Surgeon J.
M. De Wolf were killed.
" I succeeded in reaching the top of tho bluff, with ft loss of the
three officers and 29 enlisted men killed, and seven men wounded.
Almost at tlie same time I reached the top, mounted men were
seen to be coming toward us, and it proved to be Capt. Benteen's
battalion. Companies II, D, and K; we joined forces, and in a
short time the pack train came up. As senior my command was
then Companies A; B, D, G, H, K, and M, about 380 men; and
the following officers : — Captains Benteen, Weir, French, and
McDougall, First Lieutenants Godfrey, Mathey, and Gibson,
Second Lieutenants Edgerly, Wallace, Varnum, and Hare, and
A. A. Surgeon Porter. First Lieut. De Rudio was in the dis-
mounted fight in the woods, but having some trouble with his
horse did not join the command in the charge out, and hiding
himself in the woods, joined the command after nightfall of the
26th.
" Still hearing nothing of Custer, and with this reinforcement,
I moved down the river in the direction of the village, keeping on
the bluffs. We had heard firing in that direction, and knew it
could only be Custer. I moved to the summit of the highest
bluff, but seeing and hearing nothing, sent Capt. Weir, with his
company, to open communication with the other command. He
soon sent back word bj- Lieut. Hare that he could go no further,
and that the Indians were getting around him. At this time he
was keeping up a heavy fire from his skirmish line. I at once
turned everything back to the first position I had taken on the
bluff, and which seemed to me the best. I dismounted the men,
had the horsc:^ and mules of the pack train driven together in a
A TERRIFIC ASSAULT— HOLDING THE FORT.
43
(lci»res8ion, put tho men on the crests of the hills making the
(icprcHsioii, and had hardly done so when I was furiously attack-
ed. This was about G i*. m. We held our ground, with the loss
of 18 enlisted men killed and 46 wounded, until the attack ceased,
iibout y p. M.
" As I knew by this time their overwhelming numbers, and had
irivcii up any 8Ui)port from the portion of the regiment with Cus-
ter, I had the men dig rifle-pits ; barricaded with dead horses,
rallies, and boxes of hard bread, the opening of the depression
toward the Indians in which the animals were herded ; and made
every exertion to be ready for what I saw would be a terrific
assault the next day. All this night the men were busy, and the
Indians holding a scalp dance underneath us in the bottom and
ill our hearing.
" On the morning of the 26th I felt confident that I could hold
my own, and was ready as far as I could be, when at daylight,
about 2:30 a. m., I heard the crack of two rifles. This was the
signal for the beginning of a fire that I have never seen equaled.
Every rifle was handled b}- an expert and skilled marksman, and
with a range that exceeded our carbine ; and it was simply im-
possible to show any part of the body, before it was struck. We
could see, as the dny brightened, countless hordes of them pour-
ing up the vallc}- from out the village, and scampering over the
high points toward the places designated for them by their chiefs,
and which entirely surrounded our position. Tho}- had sufficient
numbers to completely encircle us, and men were struck on the
opposite sides of the lines from which the shots were fired. I
tliink we were fighting all the Sioux nation, and also all the des-
perados, renegades, half-breeds and squaw men, between the
Missouri and the Arkansas and east of the Rocky Mountains.
They must have numbered at least 2,500 warriors.
"The fire did not slacken until about 9:30 a. m., and then we
discovered that they were making a last desperate attempt, which
was directed against the lines held by Companies H and M. In
this attack they charged close enough to use their bo\v i and
arrows, and one man lying dead within our lines was touched by
the 'coup stick' of one of the foremost Indians. When I say
the stick was only about 10 or 12 feet long, some idea of the
desperate and reckless fighting of these people may be under-
stood. This charge of theirs was gallantly repulsed by the men
!
i
1 I* •
I
44 VOLUNTEER WATER-CARRIERS-INDIAN SHiiRPSHOOTERS.
I
on that line led by Capt. Benteen. They also came closi> enonch
to send their arrows into the line held by Companies D and K
but were driven away by a lilce charge of the liue, whicli I accom-
panied. We now had man}' wounded, and the question of water
was vital, as from 6 p. m. of the previous evening until now, 10
A. M. (about 16 hours) we had been without it. A skirmish line
was formed undor Capt. Benteen, to protect the descent of volun-
teers down the hill in fi-ont of his position to reach tiie water.
We succeeded in getting some canteens, although many of tlie
men were hit in doing no.
" The fury of the attack was now over, and to my astonish-
ment the Indians were seen going in parties toward the village.
But two solutions occurred to us for this movement — that they
were going for something to eat, more ammunition (as they had
been throwing arrows), or that Custer was coming. We took
advantage of this lull to fill all vessels with water, and soon had
it by the camp kettle full ; but they continued to withdraw, and
all firing ceased, save occasional shots from sharpshooters, sent
to annoy us about the water. About 2 p. m. the grass in tlie
bottom was set on fire, and followed up by Indians who encour-
a^^d its burning, and it wa^ evident it was done for a purpose,
which purpose I discovered, later on, to be the creation of a dense
cloud of smoke, behind which thej' were packing and preparing
to move their tepees.
*' It was between 6 and 7 p. m. that the village came out ftom
behind the clouds of smoke and dust. We had a close and good
view of them, as they filed away in the direction of the Big Horn
Mountains, moving in almost perfect military order. The length
of the column was fully equal to that of a large division of the
cavalrj' corps of the Army of the Potomac, as I have seen it on
its march.
" We now thought of Custer, of whom nothing had been seen
and nothing heai-d since the firing in his direction about 6 p. m.
on the eve of the 25th, and we concluded that the Indians had
gotten between him and us, and driven him toward the boat, at
the mouth of Little Big Horn River ; the awfhl fate that did befall
him never occurring to any of us as within the limits of possibili-
ties. During the night I changed my position, in order to secure
an unlimited supply of water, and was prepared for their return,
feeling i:iure they would d/^ so, aa they were in such numbers. But
SHjiRPSHOOTERS.
APPROACH OF TERRY.
45
early in the morning of *he 27th, and while we were on the qui
vive for Indians, I saw with my glass a dust some distance down
the valley. There was no certainty for some time what they
were, but finally I satisfied myself they were cavalry, and if so
could only be Custer, as it was ahead of the time that I under-
stood that General Terry could be expected. Before this time,
however, I had written a communication to Gen. Terry, and three
volunteers were to try and reach him (I had no confidence in the
Indians with me, and could not get them to do anj'thing). If
this dust were Indians, it was possible they would not expect any
one to leave. The men starteci, and were told to go as near as
was safe to determine if the approaching column was white men,
and to return at o -.ce in case they found it lio ; but if they were
Indians to pu^h on to General Terry. In a short time we saw
them returning over the high bluflf already alluded to ; thejf^ were
accompanied by a scout who had a note from Terry to Custer,
saying, ' Crow scouts had come to camp saying he had been
whipped, but it was not believed.' I think it was about 10:30
A. M. that General Terry rode into ra\ lines, and the fate of
Custer and his brave men was soon datermined by Capt. Benteen
proceeding wi^h his company to tho battis ground.
" The wounded in my lines were, during the afternoon and eve
of the 27th, moved to the camp of General Terry ; and at 5 a. m.
of the 28th, I proceeded with the regiment to the battle ground
of Custer, and buried 204 bodies, including the following named
citizens : — Mr. Boston Custer, Mr. Reed, and Mr. Kellogg.
Thi following named citizens and Indians, who were with my
command, were also killed : — Charles Reynolds (guide and
hunter) Isaiah ; (colored) interpreter ; Bloody Knife (who fell
from immediately by my side) ; Bob-tailed Bull and Stab of the
Indian scouta.
" After following over his trail, it is evident to me that Custer
intended to support me by moving further down the stream, and
attacking the village in flank ; that he found the distance to the
ford greater than he anticipated ; that he did charge, but his
march had taken so lv>ng, although his trail shows he moved
rapidly, that they were ready for him ; that Companies C and I,
and perhaps part of Company E, crossed to the village or
attempted it at the cLarge and were met by a staggering fire ; and
that they fell back to secure a po&itio.i from which to detfena
I
I'i
46
CAPTAIN BENTEEN'8 NARRATIVE.
themselves ; but thej- were followed too closelj' by the Indians to
permit him to form anj' kind of a I'ne. I think had the regiment
gone in as a bodj', and from the woods in wliich I fouglit advanced
on the village, its destruction was certain ; but he was fully con-
fident they were running, or he would not have turned from
me. I think (after tlie great number of Indians that were in the
village) that tlie following reasons obtained for the misfortune :
His rapid marcliing for two da;''s an ' ">^c night before the fight,
attacking in the day time at \2 ■'.. ■ juen they were on the
qui vive, instead of early in the laorii ng, and lastly, his unfor-
tunate divisio^j of the i-giment into three commands.
" During my fight with the Indians I had vhe heartiest support
from officers and men, but the consj icuous services of Brevet
Colonel F. W. Benteen, I desire to call attention to especially,
for if ever a soldier deserved recognition by his government for
distinguished services, be certainly does.
" Tbe harrowing sight of the dead bodies crowning the height
on which Custer fell, and which will remain vividly in my memory
until death, is too recent for me not to ask the good people of
this country whether a policy that sets opposing parties in the
field, armed, clothed, and equipped by one and Tb' si'me govern-
ment, should not be abolished. All of whi< ■ : rfespectfuUy
submitted."
The following is Capt. Benteen's a. ?(),!: ••!' Ibis de-
tour to tlie south ait'l junction with Reno. -•
" I was sent with my battalion to the left to a line of bluffs
about five miles off, with instructions to look for Indians and
see what was to be seen, and if I saw nothing there to go on, and
when I had satisfied mjself that it was useless to go ftirther ia
that direction to rejoin the main trail. After proceeding throur i
a rough and difficult country, ■'■\ *iring on the horses, and seeing
nothing, and wishing toaax- horses t, (Ocessary fatigue, T
decided to return to the main trail. Bef' ■. ' 'jftd procc '.oU a
mile in the direction of the blufl"s I was o^ f . ■'■'.) by the chief
trumpeter and the sergeant major, with instructious from Gen.
Custer to use my own discretion, and in case I should find any
trace of Inc'ians, ut once < n>^ify Gen. Custer.
"Having mar'hed rap" '' , ■ nd passed the line of bluffs on the
left bank of a branch of the J 'ttle Big Horn which made into the
main stream about two and a half miles above the ford crossed by
CAPT. BENTEEN'S NAKRATIVE.
47
Col. Reno's command, as ordered, I continued my march in the
same direction. The whole time occupied in this march -was
about an hour and a half. As I was anxious to regain the main
command, as there was no signs of Indians, I tlien decided to
rejoin the main trail, as the country before Die was mostly of the
same character as that I had alread}- passed over, without valley
and without water, and offering no inducement for the Indians.
No valleys were visible, not even the valley where the fight took
place, antil my command struck the river.
" About three miles from the point where Reno crossed the
ford, I met a sergeant bringing orders to the commanding officer
of the rear guard, Capt. McDougall, to hurry up the pack trains.
A. mile further I was met by m}- trumpeter, bringing a written
order from Lieut. Cooke, the adjutant of the regiment, to this
effect : — ' Benteen, come on ; big vi'lage ; be quick ; bring packs :'
and a postscript sr^ying, ' Bring packs.' A mile or a mile and
a half further on I first came in sight of the valley and Little Big
Horn. About twelve or fifteen dismounted meu were fighting on
the plains with Indians, charging and recharging them. This
body numbered about 900 at this time. Col. Reno's mounted
party were retiring across the river to the bluffs. I did not rec-
ogai/ie till later what part of the command this was, but was clear
they had been beaten. I then marched my command in line to
their succor.
" On reaching the bluff I reported to Col. Reno, and first
learned that the command had been separated and that Custer
.was not in Vu'Jt part of the 5eld, and no one of Reno's command
was able :,o inform me of tae whereabouts of Gen. Custer. While
the command wls awaiting the arrival of the pack mules, a com-
pany was sont forward in the direction supposed to have been
taken b^ Custer. After proceeding about a mile they were at-
tacked and driven back. During this time I heard no heavy
firinsr, and there was nothinsf to indicate that a heavy fight was
goinsr on, and I believe that at this time Custer's immediate
command had been annihilated."
In a letter addressed to the A^^my amd Namy Jowr-
nal, Lieut. E. L. Godfiy, of Benteen's battalion, gives
the following information : —
" Captain Benteen was some six miles from the scene of action
when he received Lieut. Cooke's note ; he had no intimation that
LIEUTENAKT GODFREY'S STATEMENT.
the battle had begun, of the force of the Indiana, or plan of
attack. Benteen pushed ahead ; the packs followed, and not
until he reached the high blutfs over-looking the river valley and
near to where the troops afterwards were beseiged, did he know
of the battle or immediate presence of the troops to the enemy ;
he could only hear occasional shots, not enough to intimate that
a battle was going on. Soon after reaching this point two
volleys weve heard down the river where Gen. Custer was, but
his force was not in sight. Soon after this Reno and Benteen
joined. By accident Benteen's column constituted a reserve. It
was well it was so. As soon as dispositions were made on tlie
bluff, "Weir's company was sent to look for Gen. Custer. He
went to a high point about three-quarters of a mile down the
river, from which he had a good view of the country. From it
could be seen Custer's battle field, but there was nothing to indi-
cate the result. The field was covered with Indians. He was
recalled from the place ; the packs closed up ; ammunition -ivas
issued and the command moved down the river to, if possible,
join Custer. Upon reaching this high pomt we could see nothing,
hear nothing, to indicate Custer's vicinage. But immediately the
Indians started for us."
The following is the narrative of George Herndon,
a scout, published in the New York Herald : —
"At 11 P.M., June 24th, Custer followed the scouts up the
right-hand fork of the Rosebud. About daylight we went into
camp, made coffee, and soon after it was light the scouts brought ,
Custer word that they had seen the village from the top of a
divide that separates the Rosebud from Little Big Horn River.
We moved up the creek until near its head, and concealed oui>
selves in a ravine. It was about three miles from the head of
the creok where we then <vere to the top of the divide where the
Indian scouts said the village could be seen, and after hiding his
command, General Custer with a few orderlit^s galloped forward
to look at the Indian camp. In about an hour he returned, and
said he could not see the Indian village, but the scouts and a
half-breed guide said they could distinctly see it some 15 milea
off. Custer had ' officers' call' blown, gave his orders, and the
command was put in fighting order. The scouts were 6rdered
forward, and the regiment moved at a walk. After going about
GEORGE HERNDON'8 NARRATIVE.
49
three miles the scouts reported Indians ahead, nnd the command
then took the trail.
"Our way lay down a little creek, a branch of the Little Big
Horn, and after going some six miles we discovered an Indian
lodge ahead and Custer bore down on it at a atiff trot. In
coming to it we found ourselves in a freshly-abandoned Indian
camp, all the lodges of which were gone except the one we saw,
and on entering it we found it contained a dead Indian. From
this point we could see into the Little Big Horn valley, and ob-
served heavy clouds of dust rising about five miles distant.
Many thought the Indians were moving away, and 1 think Custer
believed so, for he sent word to Reno, who was ahead, to push on
the scouts rapidly and head for the dust. Reno took a steady
gallop down the creek bottom three miles to where it emptied
into the Little Big Horn, and found a natural ford across Little
Big Horn River. He started to cross, when the scouts came
back and called out to him to hold on, that the Sioux were
coming in large numbers to meet him. He crossed over, however,
formed his companies on the prairie in line of battle, and moved
forward at a trot, but eoon took a gallop.
" The valley was about three-fourths of a mile wide. On the
left a line of low, round hills, and on the right the river bottom,
covered with a growth of Cottonwood trees and bushes. After
scattering shots -.yere f.rcd from the hills and a few from the river
bottom, and Reno's skirmishers had returned the shots, he ad-
vanced about a mile from the ford, to a line of timber on the
right, and dismounted his men to fight on foot. The horses were
sent into the timber, and the men formed on the prairies and ad-
vanced toward the Indians. The Indians, mounted on ponies,
came across the prairies and opened a heavj' fire on the soldiers.
After skirmishing for a few minutes Reno fell back to his horses
in the timber. The Indians moved to his left and rear, evidently
with the intention of cutting him off from the ford. Reno or-
dered his men to mount and move through the timber. Just aa
the men got into the saddle the Sioux, who had advanced in the
timber, fired at close range and killed one soldier. Reno then
commanded the men to dismount, and they did so ; but he soon
ordered them to raonnt again and moved out on the open prairie.
The command headed for the ford, pressed closely bv Indians in
large numbers, and at every moment the rate of speed was
60
A SCOUT'S NARRATIVE.
gW'
increased, until it became a dead run for the ford. The Sioux,
mounted on their swift ponies, dashed up by the side of the sol-
diers and fired at them, killing both men and horses. J' '^
resistance was offered, and it was a complete route to the foiu.
" I did not see the men at the ford, and do not know what
took place further than a good many were killed when the com-
mand left the timber. Just as I got out my horse stumbled and
fell, and I was dismounted — the horse running away after Reno's
command. I saw several soldiers who were dismounted, their
horses having been killed or having run away. There were also
some soldiers mounted who had remained behind. In all there
was as many as 13 men, three of whom were wounded. Seeing no
chance to get away, I called on them to come into the timber
and we would stand off the Indians. They wanted to go out,
but I said ' No, we can't get to the ford, and, besides, we have
wounded men and must stand by them.' They still wanted
to go, but I told them I was an old frontiersman, understood
Indians, and, if the}- would do as I said, I would get them out
of the scrape, which was no worse than scrapes I had been in
before. About half of the men were mounted, and they wanted
to keep their horses with them ; but I told them to let them go,
and fight on foot. We stayed in the bush about three hours, and
I could hear heavy firing below in the river, apparently about
two miles distant. I did not know who it was, but knew the
Indians were fighting some of our men, and learned afterward
it was Custer's command. Nearly all the Indians in the upper
end of the valley drew off down the river, and the fight with
Custer lasted about one hour, when the heavy firing ceased.
" When the shooting below began to die away I said to the
boys, ' Come, now is the time to get out ; the Indians will come
back, and we had better be off at once.' Eleven of the 13 said
they would go, but two staid behind. I deployed the men as
skirmishers, and we moved forward on foot toward the river.
When we had got nearly to the river we met five Indians on
ponies, and they fired on us. I returned the fire and the Indians
bioke, and we forded the river, the water being breast-deep. We
finally got over, wounded men and all, and headed for Reno's
command, which I could see drawn up on the bluffs along the
river about a mile off. We reached Reno in safety. We had
not been with Reno more than 15 minutes when I saw the
'■.Hi'
A SCOUT'S NARRATIVE.
61
Indians coming up the valley from Custer's fight. .Reno was
then moving his whole command down the ridge toward Custer.
The Indians crossed the river below Reno and swarmed up the
blutf on all sidss. After skirmishing with them Reno went back
to his old position which was on one of the highest points along
the bluflfs. It was now about 5 p. m., and the fight lasted until
it was too dark to see to shoot. As soon as it was dark, Reno
took the packs and saddles off the mules and horses and made
breastworks of them; He also dragged the dead horses and
mules on the line and sheltered the men behind them. Some of
the men dug rifle pits with their butcher knives and all slept on
their arms.
"At the peep of day the Indians opened a heavy fire and a
desperate fight ensued, lasting until 10 a. m. The Indians
charged our position three or four times, coming up close enough
to hit our men wiLh stones, which they threw by hand. Captain
Benteen saw a large mass of Indians gathering on his front to
charge, and ordered his men to charge on foot and scatter them.
Benteen led the charge, and was upon the Indians before they
knew what they were about and killed a great many. They were
evidently surprised at this offensive movement. I think in des-
perate fighting Benteen is one of the bravest men I ever saw.
All the time he was going about through the bullets, encouraging
the soldiers to stand up to their work and not let the Indians
whip them. He never sheltered his own person once during the
battle, and I do not see how he escaped being killed. The des-
perate charging and fighting was at about 1 p. h., but firing was
kept up on both sides until late in the afternoon.
" I think the Indian village must have contained about 6,000
people, fully 3,000 of whom were warriors. The Indians fought
Eeno first and then went to fight Custer, after which they came
back to finish Reno. Hordes of squaws and oi'' gray-haired
Indians were roaming over the battle-field howling like mad.
The squaws had stone mallets, and mashed in the skulls of the
dead and wounded. Our men did not kill any squaws, but the
Ree Indian scouts did. The bodies of six squaws were found
in the little ravine. The Indians must have lost as many men in
killed and wounded as the whites did."
CHAPTER VII.
lii
"tf
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fl.il
li
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Ami if-
m
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Hrb
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KILL eagle's NAEEATIVB.
A vivid account of CuHter's last battle has been
given by an Indian named Kill Eagle, who was in
Sitting Bull's village on the day of the fight a?, lie
claims, a non-combatant. Kill Eagle was head chief
of the Cheyenne River Agency Indians who had
become much dissatisfied. Capt. Poland, formerly
commander of the troops at Standing Rock, says that
the Indians there were " abominably starved during
the winter and spring of 1875 — the authorities hav-
ing failed to deliver the rations due them; and in
May and June 1876, the Indians received practically
nothing except two issues of beef and ground com,
called meal, but so coarse that one peck yielded but
a quart of meal."
Early in May, Kill Eagle entered the military post
with a party of warriors, gave a dance, demanded
rations, and proclaimed " that he owned the land the
post was built on, the timber and stone which had
been used in its construction, and that he would have
the Great Father pay for Jl these things ; that his
people were starving and they could get no food from
the agent." The post commander told them he could
do nothing for them. Kill Eagle's party manifested
sulliness, and demonstrated their defiance by firing
off pistols in the air as they marched outside of the
AT SITTING BULL'S CAMP.
68
gamson. A few days later the post commander was
infonned that Kill Eagle had started for the hostile
camp with about thirty lodges.
In September, Kill Eagle came near the post and
sent word that he intended to kill all the soldiers
unless they crossed the river. The troops were under
arms all . ight anticipating an attack, but none was
made. Subsequently Kill Eagle surrendered to the
authorities, and gave them an account of his wander-
ings during the summer. A letter written at Stand-
ing Rock described his story as follows : —
•' He commences with the date at which he left this agency,
last spring, with 26 lodges, for the purpose of hunting buffalo
and trading with the hostile Indians. He speaks of having
hcani reports that troops were going out to punish the hostiles,
but thought he would have time to do his hunting ahd trading
and get out of the way before a battle occurred. They were
obliged to hunt, as they were starving at the agency, and were
very successful.
" On the seventh daj' they arrived at Sitting Bull's village,
where a feast and numerous presents of ponies and robes were
given them. Efforts were made to induce Kill Eagle and Iiis
band to join in the contemplated movements and hostilities, but
evidently without much success. They were desirous of getting
b.nck again to the protecting arms of their agency, but were un-
able to escape from the meshes of the wily Sitting Bull. They
found, too late, that for them there was no escape ; their horses
were either shot or stolen, and wounds and insults were showered
upon them fV-om every side. In the -meantime the forces of
Crook were approaching, and with his people Kill Eagle suc-
ceeded in escaping temporarily f\'om the hostiles. He claims to
have been distant some forty or fifty miles from the scene of the
Rosebud fight, and relates many of the incidents which he was
able subsequently to gather ft-om the participants. He places the
loss of the Indians in the R' iebnd fight at four dead, left on the
field, and twelve that were brought to camp. He places the
wounded at as high as 400, and says they had 180 horses killed,
besides those that were captured.
31
i
64
BEFORE AND AFTER THE BATTLE.
\ •
IV
iA'
I'M
J.
S'
" He next comes to the flght on the Little Big Horn, and
describes the Indian village, which was six miles long and one
wide. He then speaks of Custer's approach and flght with ito
tragic details as an unwilling spectator, rather than a participant,
who, during its progress, remained quietly in his lodge ia the
centre of the Indian village. The fight with Reno commenced
about noon, the Indians " ishing to oppose his advance, until
the approach of Custer toward the lower end of the village was
announced, when the wildest confusion prevailed thoughout the
camp. Lodges were struck and preparations made for instant
flight. Vast numbers of Indians left Reno's front and hastened
to the assistance of their red brethren engaged with Custer, who
"was steadily forced back and surrounded until all were swept
from the field by the repeated charges of the Indians.
" He described the firing at this point as simply terrific, and
illustrated its force by clapping his hands together with great
rapidity and regularity. Then came a lull in the fearful storm
of iron hail and his hands were still again. The storm beat fast
and j'urious as the thought of some loved one nerved the arm of
each contending trooper, f hen the movement of his hands
slackened and gradually grew more feeble. A few scattering
shakes, like the rain upon a window pane, and then the move-
ment ceased as the last of Custer's band of heroes went down
with the setting sun.
" It was dusk as the successful combatants returned to camp
littered with their dead and wounded. ' We have killed them
all,' they said, ' put up your lodges where they are.' They had
just began to fix their lodges that evening, when a report came
that troops were coming from toward the mouth of the creek.
When this report came, after dark, the lodges were all taken
down and they started up the creek. ' I told my men,' says Kill
Eagle, ' to keep together, and we would try and get away. Some
one told on me, and they said let us kill him and his band, we
have lost many young men to-day, and our hearts are bad. We
travelled all night and next day ; after crossing the Greasy
Grass we encamped near the foot of the White Mountains. That
night, wl on I was asleep, I heard a man calling. I woke up my
people and this man proved to be a Cheyenne Indian, belong-
ing to a party that had been off on the war-path in the White
Mountains.'
,.*: .
UTTLE BUCK-ELK.
66
u
" It was not to the Indians a bloodless victory. Fourteen had
fallen in front of Reno, thirty-nine went down with Custer, and
fourteen were dead in camp. Horses and travoises were laden
with their wounded on every hand and in countless numbers.
One band alono of Ogallallas had twenty -seven wounded on
travoises, and thirty-eight thrown across horses. There were no
white men in the flght or on the field. The bugle calls were
sounded by an Indian. No prisoners were taken. The troops
were all killed on the east side ; none crossed the river."
Little Buck-Elk, an Uncapapa chief who came into
Fort Peck in September, said that he was present at
the fight with Custer, and that eleven different tribes
were engaged in it. " The Indians were as thick as
bees at the fight, and there were so many of them
that they could not all take part in it. The soldiers
were all brave men and fought well ; some of them,
when they found themselves surrounded and over-
powered, broke through the lines and tried to make
their escape, but were pursued and killed miles from
the battle ground. The Indians captured six battle
flags. No soldiers were taken alive, but after the
fight the women went among the dead bodies and
robbed and mutilated them, ^.-^re were plenty of
watches and money taken, whic^j ^oe young warriors
are wearing in their shirts and belts."
3 , ; i >
K '.
I 't::
1 1
I
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1}
CHAPTER VIII.
AN ATTACK IN THE REAR.
Major Reno's conduct o' he firet day of the fight-
ing on the Little Big Hon been severly criticised
by several of Gen. Custer's personal friends ; and one
of them, Gen T. L. Rosser, in a letter addressed to
Reno and published in the Army and Namy Journal^
blames him for taking to the timber when his " loss
was little or nothing." " You had," he says, " an open
field for cavalry operations, and I believe that if you
had remained in the saddle and charged boldly into
the village, the shock upon the Indians would have
been so great that they would have been compelled to
withdraw their attacking force from Custer, who, when
relieved, could have pushed his command through to
open ground, where he could have manoeuvred his
command, and thus greatly have increased his chances
of success." It would seem as if this and similar criti-
cisms were sufficiently answered by Reno's report ; and
by his reply to Rosser, which is given in part below : —
" After reading all your letter I could no longer look upon it
as a tribute of a generous enemy, since through me you had at-
tacked as brave officers as ever served a government, and with
the same recklessness and ignorance of circumstances as Custer
is charged with in his attacks upon the hostile Indians. Both
charges — the one made against him and the one made by you
against us — are equally, untrue, You say : — ' I feel Custer would
have succeeded had Reno, with all the reserve of seven companies,
passed through and joined Custer after the first repulse ; ' and
RENO AOAIN ON TU£ DEFENSIVE.
67
after confessing that you are firing at long range say ftirther :
' I tliink it quite certain tliat Custer had agreed with Reno upon a
place of junction in case of the repulse of either or both detach-
ments ; and, instead of an ettbrt being made by Reno for such a
junction, as soon as he encountered heavy resistance he took
refu;^o iu the hills and abandoned Custer and his gallant com-
rades to their fate.
" As I shall show, both the premises are false, and consequently
all the conclusions of your letter fall to the ground. * • The
only ofllcial orders I had from Custer were about five miles fVom
the village, when Cooke (ave me his orders in these words : 'Custer
says to move at as i.tpid a gait as you think prudent, and to
charge afterwards, and you will be supported by the whole outfit.'
"No mention of any plan, no thought of Junction, only the
usual orders to the advance guard to attack by the charge. When
the enemy was reached I moved to the front at a fast trot, and at
the river halted ten minutes or less to gather the battalion. I
sent word to Custer that I had the enemy in my front very strong,
and then charged, driving the reds before me about three miles
or less, to within a short distance of their village, supposing my
command, consisting of 120 officers and men and about 25 scouts
and guards, followed by the columns under Custer. The stream
was very crooketl, like a letter S in its wanderings, and on the
side on which the village was it opened out into a broad bottom,
perhaps half or three-quarters of a mile wide. The stream was
fringed, as usual, with the trees of the plains — a growth of large
Cottonwood, and on the opposite side was a range of high blufi's
which had been cut into very deep ravines.
" As I neared the village the Indians came out in great numbers,
and I was soon convinced I had at least ten to one against me,
and was forced on the defensive. This I accomplished by taking
possession of a point of woods where I found shelter for my horses.
I fought there dismounted, and made my way to within 200 yards
of the village, and firmly believe that if, at that moment, the
seven companies had been together the Indians could have been
driven from their village. As we approached near their village
they came out in overwhelming numbers, and soon the small com-
mand would have been surrounded on all sides, to prevent which
I mounted and charged through them to a position I could hold
with the few men I had.
" You see by this I was the advance and the first to be engaged
58
RENO AGAIN ON THE DEFENSIVE.
and draw fire, and was consequently the command to be support-
ed, and not the one from which support could be expected. AH
I know of Custer from the time he ordered me to attack till I saw
him buried, is that he did not follow Liy trail, but kept on his side
of the river and along the crest of tbe bluffs on the opposite side
from the village and from m}' command ; that he heard and saw
my action I believe, although I could r.ot see him ; and it is just
here ihat the Indians deceived ue. All this time I was driving
them with ease, and his trail shows he no^•ed lapidly down the
river for three miles to the ford, at whicli he atieoipted to cross
into their village, and with the conviction that he would strike a
a retreating enemy. Trumpeter Martin, of Co. H, who the last
time of any living person heard and saw Gren. Custer, and who
brought the last order his adjutant p-.er penciled, says he left
the General at thft summit of the highest bluff on tha+ side, and
which overlooked the village and my first battle-field, nd as he
turned, Gen. Custer raised his hut and gave a yell, saying they
were asleep in their tepees and surprised, and to chiirge. * » ♦
" The Indians made him over confident by appearing to be
stampeded, and, undoubtedly, when he arrived at the ford, expect-
ing to go with ease throuj^V their village, he rode into an ambus-
cade of at least 2,000 reds. My getting the command of tbe
seven companies was not the result of tr or ler or prearranged
plan. Benteen and McDougal arrived scparitelj-, and saw the
command on the bluffs and carae to it. They did not go into the
bottom at all after the junction. They attempted to go down ihe
trail of Gen. Custer, but the advance company soon sent back
word they were being surrounded. Crowds of reds were seen on
all side;} of us, and Custer's fate had evidently been de^^-'-rmined.
I know the position I had first taker on the bluff was near and a
strong one. I at once moved there, dismounted, and herded the
pack train, and had but just time to do so wlit;n they came upon
me by thousands. Had we been twenty minutes later effecting
the junction not a man of that regiment would be living to-day to
tell the talc."
Another writer attacks both Reno and Benteen,
accusing one of incapacity and utter demoralization
during the attack of the Indians, and th« other of
wilful disobedience. " That lie (Benteen) should have,
as his own testiiiioiiy confesses, deliberi?tely lisoboyed
3IVE.
and to be support-
be expected. AH
to attack till I saw
lit kept on his side
the opposite side
he heard and saw
lim ; and it is just
ime I wan driving
i apidly down the
itiempfced to cross
he would strike a
). H, who che last
Custer, and who
iled, says he left
on tha* side, and
Le-lield, ad as he
yell, saying they
to chiir^e. * * •
appearing to be
it the ford, expeol-
de into an ambus-
command of the
LT or prearranged
fely, and saw the
tid not go into the
;ed to go down ibe
y soon sent back
reds were seen on
been de*ormined.
ff was near find a
1, and heided the
1 they came upon
tea later effecting
e living to-day to
and Benteen,
leinoralization
th« other of
) should have,
ely '.Usoboyed
ABOUT BENTEEN'8 INFAMOUS DE81KB.
59
i}xQ peremptory order of Custer to 'Come on,' argues
either a desire to sacrifice Custer, or an ignorance of
which his past career renders him incapable. Custer
told him to ' Come on,' and he reported to Reno." In
order, as he says, to " vindicate the reputation of a
noble man from unjust aspersions," this writer further
declares, that " had Reno fought as Custer fought, and
had Benteen obeyed Custer's orders, the battle of the
Little Big Horn might have proved Custer's last and
greatest Indian victory."
Of the writer last quoted, the Army cmd Navy
Journal says : — " With reckless pen he thrusts right
and left, carelesa of reputations, regardless of facts,
darkening the lives of other men in the vain hope
that one name may bbine more brightly on the page
of history * * * Nothing but the most absolute
demonstration, accompanied by the proof, would jus-
tify such statements as he has made, and this he has
not given. The reports of anonymous newspaper cor-
respondents, and an ex parte statement of the conclu-
sions drawn from letters, of which we have not so
much as the names of the writers, is not proof on which
to base criticisms a^ecting character and reputation."
Capt. Benteen Brevet Colonel U. S. A., who has
been a captain in the 7th Cavalry since its organiza-
tion in 1866, at which date Gen. Custer was appointed
its Lieut. Colonel, in a letter to the Army and Na/cy
Jovxnal uses the following language : —
"Col. Reno and I thought during tl' seige of June
25th and 26th, at the Little Big Horn, th»t he, Reno,
was the abandoned party, and spoke of it as another
*■ Major Elliot * affair ' ; thinking that General Custer
• Major Joel H. Elliot of the 7th Cavalry, and 19 of his command, were
missing after the Battle of the Washita in Nov., 186S. Their dead bodies
were found some weeks later.
60
BENTEEN PLEADS NOT GUILTY, AND RESTS.
had retreated to tlie mouth of the river, where the
steamboat was supposed to be, and that Reno's com-
mand was left to its fate. I am accused of disobey-
ing Custer's orders. Nothing is further from the truth
in point of fact ; and I do not think the matter of suffi-
cient importance to attempt to vindicate myself, but
can rest contentedly und*ir the ban when I have the
consoling belief that the contrary is so v/ell known by
all my military superiors and comrrdes."
Lieut. Gen. Sheridan, in his report for 1876, ex-
presses his views of the Custer disaster as follows :—
" As much has been said in regard to the misfortune that oo
curred to General Custer and the portion of his regiment under
his immediate command in this action, I wish to express the con-
viction I have arrived at concerning it. From all the information
that has reached me, I am led to believe that the Indians were
not aware of the proximity of Custer until he had arrived within
about eight or nine miles of their village, and that then their scouts
who carried the intelligence back to the valley were so closely
followed up by Custer, that he arrived on the summit of the divide
overlooking the upper portion of the village, almost as soon as
the scouts reached it. As soon as the news was gi^^en, the Indians
began to strike their lodges and get their women and children out
of the way — a movement they always make under such circum-
stances. Custer, seeing this, believed the village would escape
him if he awaited the arrival of the four companies of his regi-
ment— still some miles in his rear. Only about 75 or 100 lodges
or tepees could be seen from the summit or divide, and this, prob-
ably, deceived him as to the extent of the village. He therefore
directed Major Reno, with three companies, to cross the river and
charge the village, while he, with the remaining five companies,
would gallop down the east bank of the river behind the bluff and
cut off the retreat of the Indians. Reno crossed and attacked
gallantly with his three companies — about 110 men — out the
warriors, leaving the women to strike the lodges, fell on Reno's
handful of men and drove them back to and over the river with
severe loss.
'' About this time C nster reached a point about three and a half
GEN. SHERIDAN ON THE CUSTER DISASTER.
61
or four miles down the river, but instead of finding a village of
75 or 100 lodges, he fonad one of perhaps from 1500 to 2000,
and swarming with warriors, who brought him to a halt. This, I
think, was the first intimation the Indians had of Custer's approach
to cut them off, for they at on<.e ^.eft Rgno and concentrated ta
meet the new danger. The point where Custer reached the river^
on tlie opposite side of which was the village, was broken into
choppy ravines, and the Indians, crossing from Reno, got between
the two commands, and as Custer could not return, he fell back
over the broken ground with his tired men and tired horses (they
had ridden about 70 miles with but few haHs) and became, I am
afraid, an easy prej' to the enemy. Their wild, savage yells^
overwhelming numbers, and frightening war paraphernalia, made-
it as much us each trooper could do to take care of his horse, thus
endangering his own safety and efficiency. If Custer could haver
reached any position susco; tible of defence, he could have defend-
ed himself; but none offtreu iLo^^ir iu .^e chonny and broken
ravines over whicb had to pass, and he and his command were
lost without leaving, ^ one to tell the tale.
"As soon as Custer and his pnliunt officers and m<n vvere ex-
terminated and the scenes ol i ation by the squaws i ommenced,
the warriors returned to renew the ttack upon feno ; but he had
been joined by Captain Benteen and tlie four companies of the
regiment that were behind when the original attack ook placo^
and the best use had been made of the respit ■ given by tlie attack
on Custer, to entrench their position.
" Had the 7th Cavalry been kept together, it is my belief it
would have been able to handle the Indiai's c the Little Big^
Horn, and under any circumstances it could li ' least defend-
ed itself; but separated as it was into threi ict detachments^
the Indians had largely the advantage in atidition to their over-
whelming numbers. If Custer had not come upon the village so
suddenly, the warriors would have gone to weet him, in order to
give time to the women and children to get out of the way, as they
did with Crook only a few days before, and there would have
been, as with Crook, what might be designated a rearguard fight
—a fight to get their valuables out of the way, or in other words^
to cover the escape of their women, children and lodges."
ill »
(f
it three and a half
CHAPTER IX.
■HI"-
THE MIDSUMMER CAMPAIGN.
After regaining his position at the mouth of the
Big Horn River, Gen. Terry called for reinforcements
«.nd additional troops were at once put in motion for
his camp ; but as they had to be collected from all the
various stations on the frontier — some of them very
remote from railroads — considerable time elapsed
before their arrival.
During this period, the bands which had broken
off from the main body ftf hostiles, and the young
men at the agencies, continued their old and well-
known methods of warfare, stealing horses on the
frontier and killing small parties of citizens; while
the constant communication by the hostiles with the
Indians at the agencies made it evident that supplies
of food and ammunition, were being received. To
preve.it this. Gen. Sheridan deemed it necessary that
the military should control the agencies, and at his
request, the Secretary of the Interior^ July 2 2d, au-
thorized the military to assume control of all the
Agencies in the Sioux country.
Aboil ^ the same date Medicine Cloud, a chief, who
had been sent from Fort Peck, in May, with a mes-
sage lo Sitting Bull inviting him to visit Fort Peck
with a view to reconciliation, returned to the agency.
To the invitation, Sitting Bull had replied : —
ADVENTURES OF A SCOUTING PARTY.
63
" Tell him I am coming before long to his post to
trade. Tell him I did not commence. I am getting
old, and I did not want to iight, but the whites rush
on me, and I am compelled to defend myself. But
for the soldiers stationed on the Rosebud, I with my
people would have been there before that. If I was
assured of the protection of the Great Father, I
would go to Fort Peck for tho purpose of making
peace. I and others want the Black Hills abandoned,
and we will make peace."
While awaiting reinforcements, Generals Terry and
Crook were separated by about 100 miles of rough
territory, the hostile Indians were between them, and
for reliable communication with <iach other it was
necessary to send around by the rear nearly 2000
miles. The carrying of dispatches direct was a work
of the most ardurous and perilous nature, and in
doing it, and in reconnoitering, brave and gallant
deeds were performed.
On the 6th of July, Gen. Crook sent out Lieut. Sibjey
of the 2nd Cavalry with 25 mounted troops and two
guides, Gerard and Babtiste, to reconnoiter the coun-
trj' to the front, and learn if possible the movements
of the enemy and the whereabouts of Terry's division.
The party marched all night, and in the morning
were near where the Little Big Horn debouches from
the mountains. Here, from an eminence, they espied
a large body of Indians marching eastward as though
meditating an attack on the camp at Goose Creek.
Concealing themselves as well as they could, they
watched the movements of the enemy ; but a great
shout soon warned them that their trail had been dis-
covered, and hundreds of savages immediately set out
to follow it, uttering terrific cries.
m
mm
1 1
m
m
III
64
RUNNING THE GAUNTLET.
,:i V
The fugitives galloped towarc" the mountains, and
seemed to outrun their pursuers; but about noon
while going through a ravine, a sudden volley was
fired upon them from the surrounding slopes, and
many Indians charged down upon them. They
wheeled, and took refuge in the woods, but three
horses were already wounded. Taking the aminnni.
tion from the saddles, and leaving their horses tied to
the trees to divert the enemy, they now moved stealth-
• ily and unseen from the ground, and escaped behind
adjacent rocks ; then they climbed over steep and
slippery places till exhausted, and while halting for a
rest knew by the repeated firing that their horses
were undergoing an attack.
All that night they toiled among the mountains,
and on the morning of the 9th reached Tongue River.
As they had left their rations behind, they suflfered
much from hnnger, and two of the men were so weak
they could not ford the deep stream, and remained
behind. When near the camp one of the guides went
ahead for assistance, and a company of cavalry brought
in the exhausted men.
^Having urgent occasion to communicate with Gen.
Crook, Gen. Teny, by the promise of a large reward,
induced a professional scout to make an attempt to
reach hira, but he soon returned unsuccessful. No
other scout would undertake the task, and as a last
resort a call for volunteers was made, in response to
which, 12 soldiers promptly offered their services for
the hazardous duty without hope of pecuniary reward.
Three of these. Privates Wm. Evans, Benjamin F-
Stewart, and Joseph Bell, of the 1 7th Infantry, were
selected. They set out on the 9th of July, reached
Crook's camp on the 12th ; and returned on the 25th
■ET.
le mountains, and
but about noon
udden volley was
iding slopes, and
)on them. They
woods, but three
dug the amuinni.
leir horses tied to
o\v moved stealth-
d escaped behind
over steep and
^hile halting for a
that their horses
g the mountains,
ed Tongue Kiver.
bd, they suffered
aen were so weak
n, and remained
f the guides went
: cavalry brought
inicate with Gen.
P a large reward,
^e an attempt to
nsuccessful. No
ik, and as a last
e, in response to
heir services for
ecuniary reward.
18, Benjamin F.
b Infantry, were
>f July, reached
led on the 25th
THE INDIAN ALLIES.
66
accompanied by three Crow Indians who had arrived
from Terry's camp on the 19th. The three soldiers
were thanked by their commander, in a General Order,
"for a deed reflecting so much credit on the Service."
Pftftial reinforcements having reached Gen. Crook,
en the 16th of July he broke camp and moved grad-
ually along the hills toward Tongue River. On the
3d of August, just before sunset, an additional regi-
ment, the 5th Cavalry, ten companies, under Col. W.
Merritt, " marched into camp with their supply wagons
close on their heels, presenting a fine appearance,
despite the fatigue and dust of the march."
Gen. Crook's fighting force now numbered about
2000 men. Among them were over 200 Shoshone
Ute Indians, sworn enemies to the Sioux, led
oy Washakie, a well known Shoshone chief. These
Indians were thus spoken of by a correspondent who
saw them at Fort Bridger, drawn up in line before
starting to join Gen. Crook : —
" In advance of the patiy was a swarthy tfitnporary chief, his face
covered with vertical white streaks. In his right hand, hanging
to the end of a window-blind rod, were the two flng'ers of a dead
Sioux. Another rod had a white flag nailed to it — a precaution
necessary to preserve them from being fired upon in proceeding
to the .seat of war.. The faces of the rest had on a plentiful sup-
ply of war paint. Once in line, they struck up a peculiar grunting
sound on a scale of about five notes. One of the braves, aflSicted
with a malady peculiar to the Caucasian race, began to brag what
he'd do when he got to the seat of war, winding up in broken
English, 'Me little mad now; bime by me heap mad.' Old
Washakie, their chief, wants to die in battle, and not in bed."
On the 5th of Aug., Gen. Crook cut loose from his
wagon trains and started in pursuit of the Indians
who, it was ascertained, had left the foot of the Big
Horn Mountains, July 25th, and moved eastward.
His route was north-easterly, across the Panther
d6
FOLLOWING THE TRAIL.
\V
IM
■»% 1
'■!} M
Mountains to Rosebud River. On the Sth of Aug,
the troops were ten miles north of the battle-ground
of June 17th, and near the site of a deserted village.
The country west of the Rosebud had been burned
over, and a trail recently traveled by large numbers
of Indians led down the valley. Upon this trail the
march was continued.
Meantime, Gen. Terry had been leinforced by six
companies of the 5th Infantry sinder CoT. Nelson A.
Miles, six companies of the 22d Infantry under Lt.
Col. Otis, and other detachments, until his command
numbered about the same as Gen. Crook's. On the
25th of July, he started for the mouth of the Rosebud
and there established a base of operations. On the
8th of Aug., with his troops and a train of 225 wagons
with supplies for 30 days, he moved down the west
bank of the Rosebud ; and on thelOth, when 35 miles
from its mouth, made a junction with Crook's com-
mand. Col. Miles with the 5th Infantry was sent
back to the mouth of the Rosebud to patrol the
Yellowstone, aided by steamboats, and intercept the
Indians should they attempt to cross the river.
The trail which Gen. Crook had been following
now turned from the Rosebud eastward, and its pur-
suit was promptly and steadily continued by the
united foj 3es. It led the troops across to Powder
River and down its valley. On the 17th of August
they were encamped near the mouth of Powder River,
on both sides of the -stream; and here the two com-
mands separated on the 24th of August.
As the principal Indian trail had turned eastward
toward the Little Missouri, Gen. Crook's column took
up the pursuit in that direction. On the 5th of Sept,
when on the headwaters of Heart River, a small par^
VMi
THE BATTLE OF SLIM BUTTE8.
er
of Indians were discovered going eastward, — the first
hostile Indians seen since leaving Tongue River.
The trail had now scattered so that it could be
followed no longer, and Crook decided to push for
the Black Hills settlements. His troops were nearly
out of food, and suffering from want of clothing, and
bad weather. Cold i-ains prevailed, and camp life
with no tents, few blankets, and half rations, bore hard
on the soldiers. Meat was scarce and some of the
horses were killed to supply food.
On the 7th of Sept., Capt. Anson Mills with 150 men
and a pack-train, was sent ahead with directions to
obtain food at the Black Hills settlements about 100
miles distant, and to return to the hungry column as
soon as possible. Gerard, the scout, accompanied t^e
detachment, and on the evening of the 8th, he dis-
covered a hostile village of 40 lodges and several
hundred ponies. Capt. Mills retreated a few miles,
hid his men in a ravine, and at daybreak next morn-
ing dashed into the village. The Indians were com-
pletely surprised and fled to the surrounding hills,
from which they exchanged shots with their assailants.
The lodges were secured, with their contents consist-
ing of large quantities of dried meat and other food,
robes, and flags and clothing taken from Custer and
his men. 140 ponies were also among the spoils.
A small party of the Indians had taken possession
of a narrow ravine or canyon near the village, and in
trying to dislodge them several soldiers were wound-
ed. By direction of Gen. Crook, who had reached the
field with reinforcements, the Indians in the ravine
were informed that if they would surrender they
would not be harmed. An old squaw was the first
to take advantage of the offer, and was followed by
68
THE MARCH TO THE BLACK HILLS.
15 women and children, and, lastly, by three warriors
one of whom, the chief American Horse, had been
mortally wounded.
Later in the day, before the troops had left the
village, the Indians appeared in force and began a
vigorous attack. Infantry were at once throvvn out
along the slope of the blulfs and, " about sundown
it was a very inspiring sight to see this branch of the
command with their long Springfield breech-loaders
dnve the enemy for a mile and a half to the west,
and behind the castellated rocks." The captives in
camp said the attacking Indians were reinforcements
from the camp of Crazy Horse further west. This
engagement is known as the battle of Slim Buttes.
Our losses during the day were three killed, and 11
wounded including Lieut. Von Leuttroitz.
During the march of Sept. 10th a number of Indians
came down on the rear, but were repulsed with a loss
of several killed and wounded. Three soldiers were
wounded in this skirmish.
The remainder of this long and difficult march was
successfully accomplished. On the 1 6th, Gen. Crook
reached Deadwood, a Black Hills settlement, and was
cordially received by the inhabitants. In a speech
made by the General on this occasion, he said : —
" Citizens : while you welcome me and my personal staff as the
representatives of the soldiers who are here encamped upon the
Whitewood, let me ask j'ou, when the rank and file pass through
here, to show that you appreciate their admirable fortitude in
bearing the sufferings of a terrible mai'ch almost without a
murmur, and to show them that the}- are not fighting for $13 per
Diontb, but for the cause — the proper development of our gold
and other mineral resources, and of humanity'. This exhibition
of your gratitude need not be expensive. Let the private soldier
feel that he is remembered by our people as the real defender of
his country."
I
LONG DOG'S RECONNOITEBING Pi.RTY.
60
After parting with Gen. Crook, Aug. 24th, Gen.
Terry crossed the Yellowstone and inarched down its
left bank, his object being to intercept the Indians
Crook was following if tliey attempted to cross the
river. On the 27th he left the river, and moved north-
erly into the buffalo range where hunting parties
were detailed who secured considei'able game. The
country was parched, the small streams dry, and
water scarce. A scouting party made a detour to the
north and west, but no Indians could be found. On
the 5th of Sept. the whole command was at the mouth
of Glendive Creek, where a military post had been
established.
Gen. Terry now decided to close the campaign and
distribute his troops to their winter quarters. The
Montana column under Col. Gibbon started on the
return march to Fort Ellis, 400 miles distant ; Lieut.
Col. Otis of the 2 2d Infantry, with his command, re-
mained at Glendive Creek, to build a stockade and
co-operate with Col. Miles, who was establishing a
winter post at the mouth of Tongue River ; and Gen.
Terry with the balance of the troops started for
Fort Buford v.t the mouth of the Yellowstone.
Hearing that Sitting Bull with a large band had
recently crossed to the north side of the Missouri
River near Fort Peck, Terry sent Reno with troops
— then en route to Fort Buford — in pursuit. Reno
marched to Fort Peck, and thence to Fort Buford,
but encountered no Indians. A reconnoitering party
under Long Dog had been near Fort Peck, and that
chief passed one night at the agency. They did not
want rations or annuities, but desired plenty of am-
munition, for which they were ready to exchange 7th
Cavalry horses, ai-ms and equipments.
82
1
"'^?
lit 1 1
i »(( • 1
CHAPTER X.
AUTUMN ON THE YFT.LOWSTONE.
On the 10th of October, as a train escorted by two
companies of the 6th Infantry Avas carrying supplies
from Glendive Creek to the cantouu:Hnt at the mouth
of Tongue River, it was .attacked lj indians, and was
obliged to return to Glendive with a loss of sixty
mules.
Lieut. Col. Otis was in command at Glendive, and
on the 14th he again started out the train and per-
sonally accompanied it. The train consisted of 86
wagons, 41 of which were driven by soldiers, who had
taken the places of as many citizen teamsters too de-
moralized by the recent attack to continue in the
service. The military escort numbered with officers
196 men. The following interesting narrative of
subsequent events is from the report of Col. Otis :—
"We proceeded on the first day 12 miles, and encamped on the
broad bottom of the Yellowstone River, without discovering a
sign of the presence of Indians. During the night a small thiev-
ing partj' was fired upon by the pickets, but the party escaped,
leaving behind a single pony, with its trappings, which wasliilled.
At dawn of daj', upon the 16th, the train pulled out in two strings,
and proceeded quietly to Spring Creek, distant fi*om camp about
three miles, when I directed two mounted men to station them-
selves upon a hill beyond the creek, and watch the surrounding
country until the train should pass through the defile. The men
advanced at swift pace in proper direction, and when within 60
yards of the designated spot, they received a volley firom a number
u%
GALLANT DEFENCE OK A WAGON TRAIN.
71
of concealed Indians, when suddenly men and Indians came
leaping down tlio bluH". The men escaped without injury to per-
son, although their clothing was riddled with bullets. I quickly
advanced on the skirmish line, which drove out 40 or 60 Indians,
and making a similar movement on the opposite lluiik, passed
through the gorge and gained the high table laud. Here, three
or four scouts, sent out by Colonel Miles, from Tongue River,
joined us. They had been driven into the Tongue upon the pre-
vious evening, there corraled, had lost their horses and one of
their number, and escaped to the blutfs under cover of the dark-
ness. The dead scout was found and buried.
" The train proceeded along the level prairie, surrounded by
the skirmish line, and the Indians were coming thick and fast
from the direction of Cabin Creek. But few shots were ex-
changed, and both parties were preparing for the 8tru<rgle which
it was evident would take place at the deep and broken ravine
at Clear Creek, through which the train must pass. We cautious-
ly entered the ravine, and from 150 to 200 Indians had gained
the surrounding bluffs to our left ; signal firos were lighted for
miles around, and extended far away on the opposite side of the
Yellowstone. The prairies to our front were flred, and sent up
vast clouds of smoke. We had no artillery, and nothing remained
to us except to charge the bluffs. Company C, of the 17th In-
fantry, and Company H, of the 22d Infantry, were thrown for-
ward upon the run, and gallantly scaled the bluffs, answering the
Indian yell with one equally as barbarous, and driving back the
enemy to another ridge of hills. We then watered all the stock
at the creek, took on water for the men, and the train slowly
ascended the bfuffs.
" The country now surrounding us was broken. The Indians
continued to increase in numbers, surrounded the train, and the
entire escort became engaged. The train was drawn up in four
strings, and the entire escort enveloped it by a thin skirmish line.
In that formation we advanced, the Indians pressing every point,
especially the rear, Company C, 17th, which was only able to
follow by charging the enemy, and then retreating rapidly toward
the train, taking advantage of all the knolls and ridges in its
course. The flanks, Companies G, 17th„and K and G, 22d, were
advanced about 1000 yards, and the road was opened in the front,
by Company H, 22d, by repeated charges.
I I
^Ha (: ^ ■
72
A LETTER FROM SITTINS BULL.
1;. :
'■' : I'
I ^ :M
',' 5
- " In this manner we advanced several miles, and then halted
for the night upon iv depression of the high prairie, the escort
holding the surrounding ridge. The Indians now had attempted
every artifice. They had pressed every point of the line, had run
their fires through the train, which we were compelled to cross
with great rapidity, had endeavored to approach under cover of
smolt when the}' found themselves overmatched by the officers
and men, who, taking advantage of the cover, moved forward and
took them at close range. They had met with considerable loss,
a good many of their saddles were emptied, and several ponies
wounded. Their fir'ng was wild in the extreme, and I shcukl
consider them the poorest of marksmen. For several hours they
kept up a brisk fire and wounded but three of '^>ur man.
" Upo'.i the morn' g of the 16th, the train pulled out in fom
strings, and we took up the advance, formed as on the previous
day. jy^any Indians occupied the surrounding hills, and soon a
number approached, and left a communication upon a distant Mil.
It was brought in by Scout Jackson, and road as follows : —
" Yellowstone."
" I want to know what you are doing traveling on this road?
you scare all the buffalo away. I want to hunt on the place. I
want you to tun back from heie: if you don't I will fight you
again. J. want you to lea/e what you have got here, and turn
back from here.
" I am your friend, Sitt/ng Bull.
" I mr^ip all the rations you have got and some powder ; I wish
yoa would write as soon as you can.''
" I directed the Scout Jackson to inform the Indians that I
bad notiung to say, in reply, except that we intended to take the
train turough to Tongue River, and that we should be pleased to
accommodate theia at any time with a fight. The train continued
to proceed, and about eight o'clock the Indians began to gather
for battle.
." We passed through the long, narrow gorge, near '.i&d Route
Creek, when we again watered the stock, and took i i wood and
water, consuming in this labor about an hour's time. "When we
had pulled up the gentle ascent, the Indians had again surround-
ed us, but the lesson of the previous day taught them to keep at
long range, and there was but little firing by either party. I
counted 150 Indians in our rear, and from their movement^i and
position I judged their numbers to be between 300 and 500.
m^
f%^
A FLAG OF TRUCE.
73
After proceeding a short distance, a flag of truce appeared on
the left flank, borne by two Indians, whom I directed to be
allowed to enter the lines. The)' proved to be Indian scouts
from Standing Rock Agenc)^ bearing dispatches from Lieut. Col.
Carlin, of the 17th Infantry, stating that they had been sent out
to find Sitting Bull, and to endeavor to influence him to proceed
to some military post and treat for peace.
"These scouts informed me that they had that morning
reached the camp of Sitting Bull and Man-afraid-of-his-Iiorse, ,
near the mouth of Cabin Creek, and that they had talked with
Sitting Bull, who wished to see me outside the lines. I declined
the invitation, but professed a willingness to see Sitting Bull
within my own lines. The scouts left me, and soon returned
with three of the principal soldiers of Sitting Bull — the last
named individual being unwilling to trust his person within our
reach. The chiefs said that their people were angry because our
train was driving away the buffalo from their hunting grounds,
that they were hungry and without ammunition, and that they
especially wished to obtain the latter ; that they were tired of war,
and desi? vd to conclude a peace.
" I infOiiiied them that I could not give them ammunition,
that had they saved the amount already wasted upon the train
it would have supplied them for hunting purposes for a long
time, that I had no authority to treai with them upon any terms
whatever, but they were at liberty to visit Tongue River, and
there make known conditiops. They wished to know what assur-
ance I could give them of their safety should they visit that place,
and I replied that I could give ihera nothing but the word of an#
officer. They then wished rations for their people, promising to
proceed to Fort Rock immediately, and from thence to Tongue
River. I declined to give them rations, but finally offered them
as a present 1501b. of hard bread and two sides of bacon, which
they gladly accepted. The train moved on, and the Indians fe"
to the rear. Upon the following day I saw a number of them
from Cedar Creek, far away to the right, and after that tjme they
disappeared entirely.
" Upon the evening of the 18th I met Col. Miles encamped with
his entire regiment on Custer Creek. Alarmed for the safety of
the train, he had set out from Tongue River upon the previous
day."
i
■K:
i-
%A
74
A "TALK" BETWEEN THE LINES.
While Col. Otis was thus gallantly advancing with
his train, Col. Miles, of the 5th Infantry, fearing for
its safety, Bad crossed the Yellowstone before day-
break on the 17th and started toward Glendive. He
met Col. Otis, as above stated, on the evening of the
18 th ; and on being informed of the attack on the
train, started in pursuit of the enemy. On the 21st
when about eight miles beyond Cedar Cieek , a la:ge
number of Indians appeared in front of the column,
and two of them, bearing a white flag, rode up to the
line. They proved to be the Standing Rock embas-
sadors who had met Col. Otis; and brought word
that Sitting Bull wished a conference with Col, Miles.
Lieut. H. R Bailey accompanied the two friendly
Indians to the hostile camp, and there arranged with
Sitting Bull's white interpreter for a meeting to take
place between the lines.
The troops rested on their arms in line of battle
while Col. Miles with a few officers rode forward and
halted about half way between the two forces. Sit-
ting Bull with a dozen unanned warriors presently
emerged from the hostile lines and walked slowly
forward in single iile. Col. Miles' party dismounted
and advanced to meet them, and the council began.
The scene was picturesque and exciting ; and the oc-
casion one of much anxiety to the troops who remem-
bered the assfi,ssination of Gen. Canby — especially so
when dozens of armed warriors rode forward and sur-
rounded the little group.
The "talk" was long and earnest; the Indians
wanted an " old-fashioned peace," with privileges of
trade — especially in ammunition, and demanded the
discontinuing of supply trains and the abandonment
of Fort Buford. Col. Miles explained that he could
iki^L. ,.
THE COUNCIL ENDS— THE TROOPS ADVANCE.
75
only accept surrender on the terms of absolute sub-
mission to the U. S. Government. At evening the
conference was adjourned to the next day, and the
parties separated as quietly as they had assembled.
In the morning Col. Miles moved his command north,
so as to intercept retreat in that direction. At about
11 A. M., Sitting Bull, Pretty Bear, Bull Eagle, John,
Standing Bear, Qui], White Bull and others, came
for^^^ard, marching abreast, and met Col. Miles and
several officers on a knoll half way between the op-
posing lines. The Indiana asked, to be let alone, and
professed a wish for peace, but such a peace as Col.
Miles could not concede. " After much talk by the
various chiefs. Sitting Bull was informed once and for
all that he must accept the liberal conditions offered
by the Government or prepare for immediate hostili-
ties ; and the council dispersed — Sitting Bull disap-
pearing like a shadow in the crowd of warriors behind
him."
" The scene," wrote a correspondent of the Army and Navy
Journal^ " was now most animated. Co?. Miles sent for bis
company commanders, and they came 'charging over the field
to receive his final instructions. On the other side, the Sioux
leaders rode hither and thither at full speed in front of their line,
marshaling their men and haranguing them, calling on them to
be brave. Sitting Bull's interpreter, Bruey, rode back to ask
why the troops were following him? He was answered by Col.
Miles, that tae non-acceptance of the liberal terms offered was
considered '.-.n act of hostility, and he would open fire at once.
The whole line then advanced in skirmish order. On« company
occupied a knoll on the left with the 3-inch gun, thfi first shell .
from which was greeted with a hearty cheer from the advancing
line. The Indians tried their old tactics and attempted rear and
flank attacks from the ravines, but they found those vital points
well protected by corapanios disposed en potence. which poured
in a torrent of lead wherever an Indian showed himself. The
m
76
CHIEFS SURRENDER AS HOSTAGES.
t '■. i
III-
firing then became general along the wliole line. Some of the
sharpest shooting was clone by the Sioux, and manj' officers only
escaped " close calls " by the ends of their hair. Two enlisted
men were wounded. Finally, Sitting Bull, finding his old plan
oi battle frustrated by that solid infantry skirmish line advanc-
ing upon him with the relentless sternness of fate, began a
general and precipitate retreat."
The pursuit was resolutely kept up. The Indians
fled down Bad lioute Creek and across the Yellow-
stone, a distance of 42 miles, abandoning tons of dried
meat, lodge-poles, camp equipments, ponies, etc. The
troops on foot followed rapidly, not stopping to count
the dead or gather the plunder ; and the result was,
that on the 27th of October five principal chiefs sur-
rendered themselves to Col. Miles, on the Yellow-
stone, opposite the mouth of Cabin Creek, as hostages
for the surrender of their whole people, represented
as between 400 and 500 lodges, equal to about 2,000
souls. The hostages were sent under escort to Gen.
Terry, at St. Paul, and the Indians were allowed five
days in their then camp to gather food, and thirty
days to reach the Cheyenne Agency on the Missouri
River, where they were to surrender their arms and
ponies, and remain either as prisoners of war or
subject to treatment such as is usually accorded to
friendly Indians.
Sitting Bull was not among the chiefs who surren-
dered ; during the retreat, they said, he had slipped
out, with thirty lodges of his own special followers,
and gone northerly.
;'«'iAi
CHAPTEK XI.
TEREY AND CKOOK AT THE SIOUX AGENCIES.
The disarming and dismounting of the Sioux:
Agency Indians being deemed necessary as a pre-
cautionary measure, to prevent the hostile. Indians
from receiving constant supplies of arms, ammuni-
tion, and ponies from their friends at the agencies,
General Sheridan directed Generals Crook and Terry
to act simultaneously in accomplishing that object.
The friendly and unfriendly Indians at the agencies
were so intermixed, that it seemed impossible to dis-
criminate between them.
After refitting at the Black Hills, Gen. Crook pro-
ceeded to the Red Cloud Agency, and found the
Indians there in a dissatisfied mood and probably
about to start to join the hostile bands. They had
moved out some 25 miles from the agency, and re-
fused to return although informed that no more
rations would be given them till they did so.
At daylight, Oct. 22d, Col. Mackenzie, the post
commander, with eight companies of the 4th and
5th Cavalry, surrounded the Indian camp containing
300 lodges, and captured Red Cloud and his whole
band, men, squaws and ponies without firing a shot,
and marched them into the agency dismounted and
disarmed. The Indians at Spotted Tail Agency were
also disarmed and dismounted.
1
* -
^8
A GLEAM OF DAYLIGHT,
fc ■., • ,„!
! I
I
Gen. Crook had an interview with Spotted Tail,
and being satisfied that he was the only important
Sioux leader who had remained friendly, he deposed
Ked Cloud, and declared Spotted Tail, his rival, the
" Sachem of the whole Sioux Nation, by the grace of
the Great Father the President. As the representa-
tive of the latter, Gen. Crook invested him with the
powers of a grand chief, and in token thereof pre-
sented him his commission as such, written upon a
parchment scroll tied with richly colored ribbons.
Spotted Tail's heart was very glad."
"The line of the hostile and the peacably dis-
posed," wrote Gen. Crook at this time, "is now
plainly drawn, and we shall have our enemies only
in the front in the future. I feel that this is the fifst
gleam of daylight we have had in this business."
Meantime Gen. TeiTy, with the 7th Cavalry and
local garrisons, was disarming and dismounting the
Indians at the Standing Rock and Cheyenne River
Agencies. The following is a copy of his report to
Gen. Sheridan, written at Standing Rock, Oct. 25th: —
" Colonel Sturgis left Lincoln on the 20th, Major Reno on the
21st, and each arrived here on the afternoon of the 22d. Sturgis
immediately commenced dismounting and disarming the Indians
at Two Bears' camp, on the left bank of the river, and Lieut.
Col. Carlin, with his own and Reno's forces, dismounted and dis-
armed them at both camps on this side. Owing partially to the
fact that before 1 arrived at Lincoln news was sent the Indians
here, it is said, b}- Mrs. Galpin, that we were coming, and our
purpose stated ; but principally, I believe, that some time since,
owing to the failure of the grass here, the animals were sent to
distant grazing places many miles away, comparativelj' only a few
borses were found. I, therefore, the next morning, called the
■chiefs together, and demanded the surrender of their horses and
arms, telling them that unless they complied their rations would
be stopped, and also telling them that whatever might be realized
it 1
i4 I
WHAT BECAME OF THE PONIES.
79
from the sale of the property taken would be invested in stock
for them. They have quietly submitted, and have sent out to
bring in their animals. Some have alreadj'^ arrived, and we
have now in our possession 700. More are arriving rapidly, and
I expect to double that number. I have kept the whole force
here until now for the effect its presence produces.
" I shall start Sturgis to-morrow morning for Che3-enne, leav-
ing Reno until Carlin completes the work here. Onl}- a few arms
have yet been found or surrendered, but I think our results are
satisfactory. Not a shot was fired on either side of the river.
Of course no surprise can now be expected at Cheyenne. The
desired effect will be attained there by the same means as those
employed here."
The late Sioux Commissioners, who made a treaty
for the Black Hills in Sept. ISV'O, gave their pledge
that all friendly Indians would be protected m their
persons and property. Bishop Whipple comments on
the dismounting of the Indians as follows : —
" In violation of these pledges 2,000 ponies were taken from
Cheyenne and Standing Rock Agencies. No inventory was
kept of individual property. Of 1,100 ponies taken at Standing
Rock, only 874 left Bismark for Saint Paul. No provision was
made to feed them on the way. The grass had burned on the
prairie and there was several inches of snow on the ground.
The small streams were frozen, and no water was to be had until
they reached the James River. There was no grass, and no haj'
could be purchased until they reached the Cheyenne River, more
than ten days' travel, and then nothing until they reached Fort
Abercrombie. No wonder that there were only 1,200 ponies out
of 2,000 that left Abercrombie, and that of these only 500 reached
St. Paul. The wretched, dying brutes were made the subject of
jest as the war horses of the Dakota. Manj' died on the way,
many were stolen, and the remnant were sold in St. Paul. It
was worse ihan the ordinary seizure of property without colo;- of
law. It was not merelj' robbery of our friends. It was cruel.
The Indians are compelled to camp from 10 to 40 miles away
from the agency to find fuel. They have to cross this distance
in the coldest weather to obtain their rations, and without ponies
they must cross on foot, and some of them may perish."
TT
80
GEN. CROOK'S ADDRESS TO HIS TROOPS.
IrL !
I I
:l!r''iii
I n !i
!!
1.*
Gen. Crook issued at Ked Cloud Agency Lis Gen-
eral Orders, No. 8 — in part as follows : —
Headquabteks Department of the Platte, m the Field, (
Camp Robinson, Neb., Oct. 24th, 1876. )
" The time having arrived when the troops composing the Big
Horn and Yellowstone Expedition are about to separate, the
Brigadier-General commanding addresses himself to the ofBcers
and men of the command, to say : —
" In the campaign now closed he has been obliged to call upon
you for much hard service and many sacrifices of personal com-
fort. At times you have been out of reach of your base of sup-
plies ; in most inclem'jnt weather you have marched without
food and slept without shelter. In your engagements you have
evinced a high order of discipline and courage, in your marches
wonderful powers of endurance, and in j-our deprivations and
hardships, patience and fortitude.
" Indian warfare is, of all warfare, the most trying, the mo8t
dangerous, and the most thankless ; not recognized by the high
authority of the United States Congress as war, it still possesses
for you the disadv^antages of civilized warfare with all the horri-
ble accompaniments that barbarians can invent and savages can
execute. In it, you are required to serve without the incentive
to promotion or recognition ; in truth, without favor or hope of
reward.
•'.The people of our sparsel}"^ settled frontier, in whose defence
this war is waged, have but little influence with the powerful
communities in the East ; their representatives have little voice
in our national councils, while j'our savage foes are not only the
wards of the nation, supported in idleness, but objects of sym-
pathy with a large number of people otherwise well informed
and discerning. You may, therefore, congratulate yourselves
that in the peformance of your military duty j-ou have beei\
on the side of the weak agi.inst the strong, and that the few
people there are on the fronti'^r will remember your efforts with
gratitude."
Gen. Crook's losses during the campaign extending
from May 27th to Oct. 24th, were 12 killed, 32
wounded (most of whom subsequently returned to
duty), one death by accident and one by disease.
CHAPTER XII.
THE WINTER OF 1876-7.
After leaving Red Cloud, Gen. Crook marched to
Fort Fetterman and organized a Lew column for a
winter expedition against the enemy. Subsequently,
witli a force of ten companies of cavalry under Col.
Mackenzie, eleven companies of infantry and four of
artillery under Lieut. Col. R. I. Dodge, and about 200
Indian allies, some of whom were friendly Sioux en-
listed at Red Cloud Agency, Gen. Crook advanced
to old Fort Reno, head of Powder River, where a can-
tonment had been built.
Hearing that a band of Cheyenne Indians were en-
camped among the Big Horn Mountains to the south-
west, Gen. Crook, Nov. 23d, sent Col. Mackenzie with
his cavalry and the Indian allies to hunt them up. At
noon, Nov. 24th, after marching some 30 miles along
the base of the mountains toward the Sioux Pass, Mac-
kenzie met five of seven Indian scouts who had been
sent ahead the evening previously. These scouts
reported that they had discovered the camp of the
Cheyennes at a point in the mountains about 20 miles
distant, and that the other two scouts had remained
to watch the camp.
A night's march was decided upon and, at sunset,
after a halt of three hours, the command moved for-
ward toward the village ; but owing to the roughness
82
A CHEYENNE VILLAGE DESTROYED.
i"
of the country, it was daylight when they reached the
mouth of a canyon leading to and near the village.
Through this canyon the column advanced, crossing
several deep lavines, and when within a mile of the
camp the order to charge was given. The Indian
allies, who were in front, rushed forward howling and
blowing on inntruments, and some of them subse-
qii tly ascended the side of the canyon and occupied
a high bluff opposite to and overlooking the village.
The surprise was nearly complete ; but some of the
Cheyennes, whom the scouts had reported as being en-
gaged in a war dance, sounded the alarm on a drum,
and began firing on the advancing column. The in-
habitants immediately deserted their lodges, taking
nothing but their weapons with them, and took refuge
in a net- work of very diflScult ravines beyond the
upper end of the village. A brisk fight for about
an hour ensued, after which skirmishing was kept up
until night. The village of 173 lodges and their
entire contents were destroyed, about 500 ponies
were captured, and the bodies of 25 Indians killed in
the engagement were found. Col. Mackenzie's loss
was Lieut. J. A, McKinney and six men killed, and
twenty-two men wounded.
On the 4th of Dec, Gen. Cropk left Fort Keno with
his whole force, and moved down Little Powder
River, intending to form at its junction with Powder
River a supply camp from which to operate against
the Indians. Subsequently, however, he crossed over
to the Belle Fourche River, and, Dec. 22d, started for
Fort Petfcennan where he arrived Dec. 29th. The
weather during this homeward marc'h was at times
intensely cold, and the men and horses suffered con-
siderably thereby.
AN EXCURSION NORTHWARD.
83
While Gen. Crook was thus looking for and harass-
ing the Indians in the Powder River country, the
isolated garrison of the Tongue River cantonment, fur-
ther north, were not idle. An excuj'sion northward in
search of Sitting Bull was led by Col. Miles, the post-
command ., and as reports as to the location of the
Indians were conflicting and their trails obscured by
snow, he divided his force, and sent Lieut. Frank D.
Baldwin with three companies of the 5th Infantry
to the north of the Missouri, while he examined the
the Mussel Shell and Drv Forks country.
On the 7th of Dec, Lieut. Baldwin discovered
Sitting Bull's band, and followed the Indians to the
Missouri River, where they crossed and for a short
time resisted the crossing of the troops. The Indiana
then retreated south, but were overtaken in the Red-
wood country and attacked, Dec. 18th. Their camp of
122 lodges was captured and burned with its contents,
and 60 mules and horses were taken. The Indians
escaped, but carried off little property except what
they had on their backs. Lieut. Baldwin's command
marched on this expedition over 500 miles — walking
on one occasion 73 miles in 48 hours — and endured
the cold of a Montana winter with great fortitude.
A very unfortunate affair occurred at the Tongue
River cantonment, within a few hundred yards of the
parade-ground, Dec. 16th. The following is from Col.
Miles' report thereof : —
"As five Minneconjou chiefs were coining in, bearing twa
white flags, followed by twenty or thirty other Indians, and were
passing by the Crow Indian camp, the five in advance were sur-
rounded by twelve Crows and instantly killed. The act was an
unprovoked, cowardly murder. The Crows approached them in
a friendly manner, said " How," shook hands with them, and
when they were within their power and partly behind a large
i , s
r' h-
1 1 V
fc , J
li^;i:i :
;i v.
'-■■+-■•
H mi
1 11 4!i4
lir
-iLL
; (■
it 1
■J 1
84
MASSACRE or FIVE CHIEFS.
■wood pile, killed them in a most brutal manucr. Upon hearing
the first phot, both ofTicnrs and men rushed out and tried to save
tlie Minneconjous, but could not roacli them in time. The Crows
were aware of tlie enormity of their crime, as they saw that the
Minneconjous liad a flag of truce, and thej- were told to come
back. They wore warned tlie day before against committing any
act of violence ngiiin.st messengers or other parties coming In
for fViendly purposes. Thoy tried to hide tlie Hag of truce and,
taking advantage of the momentary excitement, while efforts
were being made to open communication and bring back the
otlicrs, wlio were following, and who became alarmed and fled to
the bluffs, the guilty Crow Indians jumped upon their ponies and
fled to tlieir agency in Montana. The only thing that can be
«aid in defence of the Crows is, that a false report was made by
one of the Crow women tliat the Sioux had fired upon her, and
that within the last few montlis some of their number had lost
relatives killed by the Sioux in the vicinity of the Rosebud.
These Indians have claimed to be fViends of the white man for
years, have been frequently in the Government employ, and were
brought down to flght such outlaws as Sitting Bull and Crazy
Horse.
" Those killed were believed to be Bujl Eagle, Tall Bull, Red
, Red Cloth, and one other prominent chief of the Sioux
nation. I am unable to state the object of Bull Eagle's coming,
but am satisfied lie came with the best of motives. I can only
judge from the following : — When he surrendered on the Yellow-
stone, after the engagement on Cedar Creek, he was the first to
respond to my demands, and, I believe, was largely instrumental
in bringing his people to accept the terras of tlie Government.
When I had received five of the principal chiefs as hostages, and
was about parting with him, I told him, if he had any trouble in
going in, or his people hesitated or doubted that the Govern-
ment would deal fairly and justly with them, to come back to me,
and I would tell him what to do ; that if he would come back to
my command, I would be glad to see him and, so long as he
complied with the orders of the Government, he could be assured
of the friendship of its officers. I could not but regard him with
respect, as he appeared in every sense a chief, and seemed to be
doing everything in his power for the good of his people, and
endeavoring to bring them to a more peaceful condition. He
TUB TREACUfiROUS CROWS.
85
npix'iired to have grcfit confidence in what I told him ; I gave
hull live days to obtain meat ; during tliut time ho lost three
I'avorito ponies, which wore l)roiiglit to tliin place. During my
absence ho camo in, bringing live horses tliat had Htraycd or
boon stolen from some citizens in tlio vicinity, and requested hia
own. He also inquired if lie could send up to tho Big Horn
country for the remainder of his people, and take them in on the
pass I had given him. Ho was informed by the commanding
olllcer, Gen. Whistler (whom he had known for years before),
that ho could, and was told to send for them. Whether he had
met witii some trouble in taking his people in to their agency, and
had returned, as I had told him, for directions, or had gathered
up his people, and in passing had come in to apprise me of tho
fact, I know not ; but there is every reason to believe that tho
above mentioned circumstances gave rise to his motives and
prompted his actions.
" The Crows were immediately disarmed, twelve of their ponies
taken from them, and other considerations, togctlior with a letter
cxphiining the whole affair, were sent to the people and friends
of those killed, as an assurance that no white man had any part
in the affair, and that wc had no heart for such brutal and cow-
ardly acts.
" It illustrates clearly the ferocious, savage instincts of even
the best of these wild tribes, and tlie impossibility of their control-
ling their desire for revenge when it is aroused by the sight of
their worst enemies, who have whipped them for years and driven
them out of this countr}-. Such acts are expected and considered
justifiable among these two tribes of Indians, and it is to be hoped
that the Sioux will understand that they fell into a camp of their
ancient enemies, and did not reach the encampment of this
command."
In January, 1877, C9I. Miles with 350 of his troops
marched southerly sixty miles up the Tongue River,
and on the evening of the 7th discovered a large
Indian village. Skirmishing ensued, and on the next
day 1000 well-armed warriors appeared in front, and a
battle was fought. The battle-ground was very rough
and broken, and a heavy snow storm came on during
the fight. The Indians fought with desperation ; but
33
/ ^
-^. li'::^>l
86
A WINTER; FIGHT IN THE WOLF MOUNTAINS.
our troops had been so admirably arranged that tliey
succeeded in gaining a decisive victory. The follow-
ing is Col. Miles' report of the alFair : —
"I have the honor to report that this command fought the
Hostile tiibes of Cheyenne and Ogallala Sioux, under Crazy
Horse, iu skirmishes on tim l^t, 3d, and 7th of January, and in a
five hours' engagement on the 8th inst. Their camp, consisting
of some 500 lodges, extended three miles along the valley of
Tongue River, below Hanging Woman's Creek. They were
driven through the canyons of the Wolf or Panther Mountains, in
the direction of Big Horn Mountains. Their fighting streng+h
outnumbered mine by two or three to one, but by taking advan-
tage of the ground we had them at a disadvantage, and their loss
la known to be heavy. Our loss is three killed and eight wound-
ed. They fought entirely dismounted, and charged on foot to
within fifty yards of Captain Casey's line, but were taken in front
and flank by Captain Butler's and Lieutenant McDonald's com-
panies. They were \ -hipped at every poir t and driven from the
field, and pursued so far as ny limited f uppUes and worn down
animals would C8.rry my command."
The following additional particulars are derived
from a letter to the Army and M.zvy Journal : —
" On the 5th January, Iiudian signs grew thicker and thicker.
Miles of hastily 8b",ndoned war lodges were passed. The
country- became very rough. Tho valley of the Tongue grer
narrower, the stream more tortuous, and the hills on both sides
loftier and more precipitous, until the valley shrank into a pro-
longed and winding canyon. At short distances, jutting bluffs
made narrow pasaes which offered points of vantage to the stivage
enemy. The gorges of the Wolf Mountai.is had been reached.
" On the 6th, the march was through a large war camp, recently
and hurriedly abandoned. Unusual hej>* was followed by snow.
In the evening there was snow and hail driven by a cruel wind,
and by 5 p. m. it was pitt-h dark . On the evening of the 7th, the
scouts captured four Cheyenne iquaws, a youth, and three young
children. Two handled Indiar.s made a dash at the scouts, shot
two of their horses and mado a desperate effort to take them.
Casey open' 1 a musketry fire on the Indians, and darkness super-
withdrew.
vening, the,
'J^iumm^r^
I0UNTAIN8.
mged that they
y. The follow-
namand fought tbe
ioux, under Crazy
f January, and in a
ir camp, consisting
ilong the valley of
>eek. They were
ither Mountains, in
ir fighting streng+h
it by taking advan-
tage, and their loss
d and eight wound-
charged on foot to
were taken in front
t McDonald's com-
.nd driven from the
lies and worn down
ii'8 are derived
Journal : —
hicker and thicker,
vere passed. The
the Tongue grer
hills on both sides
shrank into a pro-
iices, jutting bluflfs
ntage to the savage
lad been reached,
war camp, recently
followed by snow.
n by a cruel wind,
iiing of the 7th, tbe
h, and three young
at the scouts, shot
Tort to take them,
nd darkness super-
CHEYENNE CAPTIVE8-80NQ8 OP TRIUMPH.
87
11;
" Nex* morning the fight was renewed shortly after daylight.
The Indi. v»s charged down the valley in large force, close up to
the skirmish line, but failed to make any impression. Tliey then
turned their attention to the flanks, and began to swarm on the
bluffs to the right. The action then became gcnoral. Tho
Indians were in strong force, and tried every point of the line.
The hills and woods resounded with their cries and the high-
pitched voices of the chiefs giving their orders.
" It is the opinion of some who hnve had years of experience
in Indian fighting, that there has rarely, if ever, been a fight
before in which the Sioux and Cheyenne showed such determina-
tion and persistency, where they were finally defeated. They
had chosen their ground ; and it has since been learned that they
expected to make another Custer slaughter. The Cheyenne
captives, in the hands of the troops, sang songs of triumph
during the entire fight, in anticipation of a speedy rescue and the
savage orgies of a massacre."
In a complimentary order tj his droops, dated
Jan. Slst, Col. Miles says: —
" Here in the home of the hostile Sioux, this command, during
the past three months, has marched 12C0 miles and fought three
engagements — )>e8ides affairs of less importance. * * * Fortun-
ate indeed is the of er who commands mem who will imp-ovise
boats of wagon tKv s, fearlessly dash out into the cold and turbid
waters, and amid tne treacherous current and floating ice, cross
and recross the great Missouri ; who will defy the elements on
these bleak plains in a Montana winter ; and who have in every
field defeated superior numbers."
The dismounting and disarming poli^'y was kept up
at the Agencies through the winter. Several bands
came in and surrendered — among them that of Red
Horse, who had been actively hostile. This chief
thus describes the engagement on the Little Big
Horn. The " brave officer " referred to is said to be
Capt. T. H. French, of Reno's battalion.
" On tbe morn'ng of the attack, myself and several women
were out about a mile trom camp gathering wild turnips. Sud-
denly one of the women called my attention to a cloud of dust
i ,:l I; ■
■ It;
\
88
SURRENDER OF RED HORSE.
rising in the neighborhood of the camp. I soon discovered that
troops were maliing an attack. We ran for the camp, and
when I got there I was sent for at once to come to the council-
lodge. I found many of the council men already there when I
arrived. We gave directions immediately for e.""'"y Indian lo
get his horse and arms ; for the women and children to mount
the horses and get out of the way, and for the young men to go
and meet the troops.
" Among the troops was an officer who rode a horse with four
white feet. The Indians have fo< a great many tribes of
people, and very brave ones, too, b iw jy all say that this man
was the bravest man they had ever met. I don't know whether
this man was General Custer or not. This officer wore a large-
brimmed hat and buckskin coat. He alone saved his command
a number of times by turning on his horse in the retreat. In
speaking of him, the Indians call him the 'man who rode the
horse with four white feet.'
" After driving this party back, the Indians corraled them on
top of a high hill, and held them there until they saw that the
women and children were in danger of being made prisoners by
another party of troops which just then made its appearance
below. The word passed among the Indians like a whirlwind, and
tiiey all started to attack the new party, leaving the troops on the
hill. When we attacked the other party, we swarmed down on
them and drove them in conftision. No prisoners were taken.
All were killed. None were left alive even for a few rainutfes.
Thefo troopers used very few of their cartridges. 7^ took a gun
and a couple of belts off two dead men. Out of one belt two
cartridges were gone , out of the other five.
" It was with captured ammunition and arms that we fcght
the other body of troops. If they had all remained together they
would have hurt us very badly. The party we killed made five
different starts. Once we charged right in until we scattered the
whole of them, fighting among them hand to hand. One band of
soldiers was right in the rear of us when they charged. We foil
back, and stood for one moment facin>r each other. Then tue
Indians got courage and saarte<l for them in a solid Ijody. We
went but a little distance when we spread out and en<: ivlod them.
All the time I could see their offlfjers riding in front, and hear
them shouting to their men. We finished up the party right there
in the raviae.
SPOTTED TAIL'S MISSION— CRAZY HORSE SURRENDERS. 89
" The troops tip the river made their first attack, skirmishing a
little while after the fight commenced with the other troops below
the village. While the latter fight was going on we posted some
Indians to prevent the other command from forming a junction.
As soon as we had finished the fight we all went back to masacre
the troops on the hill. After skirmishing around awhile we saw
the walking soldiers coming. These new troops making their
appearance was the saving of the others. An Indian started to
go to Red Cloud Agencj' that day, and when a few miles from
camp discovered dust rising. He turned back and reported that
a large herd of buffalo was approaching the camp, and a short
time after he reported this the camp was attacked by troops."
In February, Spotted Tail, with a T)ody-guard of 200
warriors, started out to visit his roaming brethren as
a peacemaker ; and through his influence, or for other
reasons, all the hostile bands, it is believed, except
Sitting Bull's, have accepted the terms offered by the
Government and surrendered their arms and ponies.
One band of about 1000 encircled the Indian camp
at Spotted Tail Agency, April 16th, and after dis-
charging their guns in the mt by way of salutation,
surrendered to Gen. Crook. Roman Nose, whose
village was destroyed at Slim Buttes, indicated his
desire for peace in a short spee/'.h and by laying his
rifle at the feet of the General. Five days Inter, 500
Cheyennes, with 600 poniea, came into Re^i Oh/»id
Agency. Their villagifi near Sioux Pas« h«^ l>**^n
destroyed in November, aad they were in a 'l^^x^Ii'ite
and pitiable condition.
Cro/y Horse and his band of 900 /adians t^^trifu
dered at Red Cloud, May 5th. They s^'i>om','(] t/, \^.
in a corafortabld jonditioii and had 200. ^
At the latest date, Sitting Bull and his band were
reported moving toward Canada. If they return
mnth, Coi. Miles will be j/rfrji>;.red to give them a
»mtsh)ti reception.
y
E : ><
CHAPTER XIII.
A BIOGEAPHJOAL SKETCH OF MAJOR-GENERAL CU8TEB.
George Armstrong Custer, son of Emmanuel H
Custer, a Lard- working?", enterprising farmer, was bom
at New Rumley, Hairison County, Ohio, December
5th, 1839. He grew up into an active, athletic, and
amiable youth, acquired a fair English education, aud
at the age of sixteen years engaged in teaching school
near his native town.
Having determined to go to "West Point if possible,
young Custer addressed a letter on the subject to
Hon. John A. Bingham, Member of Congress from
his district, to whom he was personally unknown,
and subsequently called on him. The result was
that, he entered West Point Academy as a cadet in
1857. The official notification of his appointment
was signed by Jefferson Davis, President Buchanan'p
secretary of war.
As a cadet, Custer did not achieve a brilliant record
either {or scholarship or good behavior. This was
not owing to any want of intelligence or quickness of
comprehension, but rather to a love of mischief and
hatred of restraint. During the four years of his
academic term he spent 66 Satiu'days in doing extra
guard duty as penance for various offences ; and he
graduated in 1861, at the foot of a class of 34.
His stay terminated with a characteristic incident.
FROM WEST POINT TO BULL RUN.
91
NERAL CUSTEB.
He chanced one day when officer of the guard to come
upon two angiy cadets, v/ho from words had come
to blows, and were just ready to settle their difficulty
with their fists. Custer puslied through the crowd
of spectators who surrounded the combatants, but
instead of arresting them, as was his duty, he re-
strained those who were endeavoring to restrain them,
and called out : —
" Stand back, boys ; let's have a fair fight."
His appeal was heard by Lieuts. Hazen and Merritt,
and he was placed under arrest and kept back to be
coui-t-raartialed, while the rest of his class, (excepting
such as had already resigned to join the Southern
army) departed for active service. The court-martial
was however cut short, through the exertions of his
fellow cadet ■ at Washington, by a telegraphic order
summoning him there.
Custer reported to the Adjutant-General of the
Army at Washington, July 20th, and was by lim in-
troduced to Gen. Scott. The company ('r, 2nd
Cavalry) to which he had been assigned, with the
rank c»f 2nd lieutenant, was at this time near Center-
vilie, and as he was to join it. Gen. Scott entruBted to
him some dispatches for Gen. McDo\«c1j who com-
manded the troops in the field. A night's ride on
horseback took him to the army, the dispatches were
delivered, and then he joined his company before
daybreak just as they were preparing to participate in
the battle of Bull Kun. In this battle, however, the
cavalry took but little part; in the frantic retreat
that followed, Custer's oompany was among the last
to lutire, and did so in good order, taking with them
Gen. Heintzelman who was wounded.
Aft«l* C'en. McClellan took command of the army,
92
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
Custer's company was attached to Gen. Phil Keanjy's
brigade, and that general detailed Custer as his aid-
de-camp, and afterwards as assistant adjutant-general,
which position he held till deprived of it by a general
order prohibiting officers of the regular army from
serving on the staffs of volunteer officers.
About this time he obtained leave of absence on
account of ill health, and visited his sister, Mrs. Eeed,
at her home in Monroe, Michigan ; and it is said tliat
through her entreaties and influence he then gave up
the habit of using strong drinks, which, in common
with many of his fellow officers, he had acquired
during his brief armj'^ life near Washington. Thence-
forth, through the remainder of his life, he drank no
intoxicating liquor. ' '
Returning to the army in Feb. 1862, he was assign-
ed to the 5th Cavalry, and when the enemy evacuated
Manassas he participated ir the advance on that place,
ftnd led the company which drove the hostile pickets
across Cedar Run.
When the Army of the Potomac Was transferred to
the Peninsula, Custer's company was among the first
to reach Fortress Monroe, and it then marched to
Warwick. Here he was detailed as assistant to the
chief engineer, on Gen. W. F. Smith's staff; he served
in that capacity during the siege of Yorktown, and
planned the earthwork nearest the enemy's lines.
At the battle of Williamsburg, where he acted as aid-
de-camp to Gen. Hancock, he effected the capture of
a battle-flag — the first taken by the Army of the
Potomac.
When the army was encamped near the Chicka-
hominy River, late in May, Custer accompanied
Gen. Bainard, the chief engineer .of the army, on a
ar the Chicka-
accompanied
the army, on a
GENEBAL (JEOHOE A. CUSTER.
'
1^
ON McCLELLAN'8 STAFF.
9a
reconnoisance outside tlie picket line to the bank of
the river ; and at tlie rec^uest of his superior, lie dis-
mounted, jumped into the rivor, and waded across
the stream — the object being to ascertain the depth
of the water, which in some places came nearly up to
his shoulders. On reaching the opposite bank he
examined the ground for some distance, and discover-
ed, unseen by them, the position of the enemy's
pickets. Barnard reported to McClellan that the
river was fordable, and how he had ascertained that
it was so. McClellan sent for Custer, and was so
pleased with his appearance and courageous act that
he transferred him to his own staff; and in June,
Custer received from the Secretary of War his appoint-
ment as additional aid-de-camp, with the rank of
captain during the pleasure of the President. Previ-
ously to this he had crossed the Chickahominy at day-
break with a company of infantry, attacked the
enemy's picket post, and captured prisoners and arms.
Custer served on McClellan's staff through all
of the Peninsular campaign; and after the battles
of Gaines' Mills, Fair Oaks, Malvern Hill, etc., re-
treated with him to the protection of the gunboats at
Harrison's Landing on the James River. Subsequent-
ly, after the withdrawal of the army from the Penin-
sula and the defeat of Banks and Pope in Virginia,,
he was McClellan's aid-de-camp in the Maryland cam-
paign which closed v^dth the battle of Antietam.
When McClellan was superseded bj Bumside, Nov.
10th, 1 862, Custer accompanied his chief to Washing-
ton, and subsequently visited his friends in Ohio-
and Michigan. His staff position as captain ceased
with the retirement of McClellan, and he was now a
first lieutenant, commisioned July 17th, 1862.
04
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
In April, 1863, Custer rejoined his company which
was with Gen. Hooker's army near Fredericksburg, and
took part in the battle of Chancellorsville. In June
he was on the staff of Gen. Pleasonton, then chief of
the cavalry corps, and was conspicuous at Beverly
Ford and other places across the Rappahannock
where Stuart's cavalry were met and roughly handled.
At the battle of Aldie, Virginia, Custer distin-
guished himself in the charge made by Kilpatrick's
cavalry. The onset was irresistible ; the Confederate
forces were driven back in confusion, and Custer's
impetuosity carried him far within their lines from
which he was allowed to escape in consequence-, he
l^elieved, of the similarity of his hat to those worn
by the Confederates. For his gallantry in this action,
Custer was promoted at one bound from a first lieu-
tenant to a bngadier-general.
Gen. Custer was now assigned to the command of
a Michigan brigade in Kilpatrick's division, the Ist,
5th, 6th and 7th Cavalry, and joined his command at
Hanover, Md., June 29th. The next day he was en-
gaged in a skirmish with Stuai-t's cavalry, and attract-
ed the attention of all by the peculiarity of his dresa.
He wore abroad-brimmed, low-crowned felt hat ; loose
jacket and trowsers of velveteen, the former profusf \"
trimmed with gold-braid and the latter tucked i ito
high boots; a blue shirt, with turnover collar ^n
either corner of which was an embroidered star ; anii
a flaming neck-tie.
Tlie battle of Gettysburg was now in progress, and
on the 2nd of July Custer distinguished himself, and
won the respect of his officers, by charging the enemy
at the head of a company of his troops, having his
horse shot under him. The next day his brigade
A GENERAL AT UETTY8BURO-CUA81NQ THE FOE. 95
was actively engaged, and the charge of the Ist
Michigan Cavalry, supported by a battery, is desig-
nuted by Custer as one of the most brilliant and suc-
cessful recorded in the annals of warfare.
After the battle Gen. Lee retreated rapidly toward
the Potomac, and the cavalry moving by different
routes harassed him continually, capturing ti-ains and
prisoners. The following paragraph is copied from
Headley's " History of the Civil War."
" Kilpatrick clung to the rebel army with a tenacity that did
not allow it a moment's rest. At midniglit, in a furious thunder
storm, he charged down the mountain tlirough the darltncss with
unparalleled boldness, and captured the entire train of Elwell'a
division, eight miles long. At Emmettsburg, Haggerstown, and
other places, he smote the enemy, with blow after blow. Buford,
Gregg, Custer, and others, performed deeds which, but for the
greater movements that occupied public attention, would have
filled the land with shouts of admiration. In fact, tlie incessant
protracted labors of the cavalry during this campaign, rendered
it useless for some time."
Custer's brigade came upon the enemy's rear guard
at Falling Waters, and the 6th Michigan made a
gallant charge which was repulsed with considerable
loss ; but after a two hours' fight the enemy was
driven to the river; Gen. Pettegrew and 125 of his
men were killed, and 1500 were taken prisoners;
cannon and battle-flags were also captured.
When the cavalry crossed the Rappahannock in
September, pushing back Stuart's cavalry to Brandy
Station, Culpepper C. H., and across the Rapidan,
Custer, as usual, was with tlie advance, and in one
engagement was slightly wounded by a piece of a
shell — the first and only time he was wounded during
the war. After a short vacation in consequence of
his wound, he rejoined his command in season to
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LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
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accompany the advance of cavalry to and across the
Rapidan in October; and when Mead's army was
forced back across the Rappahannock, he assisted in
covering the retreat. The following description of
the engagement at Brandy Station is also copied from
Headley : —
" Pleasonton, with the cavalry, remained behind to watch the
enemy, and then slowly retired toward the retreating army,
Buford had been forced back more rapidly than Kilpatrick, whose
command — with Davis over the right brigade, and Custer over
the left — fell back more slowly. When the latter reached Brandy
Station, he found the former, ignorant of his movements, wa»
far in advance, leaving his right entirely exposed. To make
matters worse Stuart had passed around his left, so tliat Kil-
patrick, with v/hom was Pleasonton himself, was suddenly cut
off. Tlie gallant leader saw at a glance the peril of his position^
and, riding to a slight eminence took a hasty survey of the
ground before him. He then gave his orders, and three thousand
swords leaped from their scabbards, and a long, loud shout
r'^Ued over the field.
" With a heav}' line of skirmishers thrown out, to protect hi»
flanks and rear, he moved in three columns straignt on the rebel
host that watched his coming. At first, the well-closed columns
advanced on a walk, while the batteries of Pennington and Elder
plaj'ed with fearful precision upon the hostile ranks. He thua
kept on, till within a few hundred yards of the rebel lines, when
the band struck up " Yankee Doodle." Tlie next instant, a hun-
dred bugles pealed the charge, and away, with gleaming sabres
and a wild hurrah, went the clattering squadrons. As they came
thundering on, the hostile lines parted, and let them pass proudly
through. Buford was soon overtaken, and a line of battle formed ;
for the rebels, outraged to think they had let Kilpatrick off so
eas}', reorganized, and now advanced to the attack.
"A flmce cavalry battle followed, lasting till after dark.
Pleasonton, Buford, Kilpatrick, Custer and Davis again and
again led charges in person. It seemed as if the leaders on uoth
sides were determined to test, en the plains of Brandy Station,
the question of superiority between the cavalry ; for the charges
on both sides were of the most gallant and desperate character.
CAVALRY BATTLE AT BRANDT STATION— MARRUGB. 97
The dark masses would drive on each other, through the deep-
ening gloom, with defiant yells, while the flashing sabres struck
fire as they clashed and rung in the fierce conflict. At length
the rebels gave it up, and our cavalry, gathering up its dead
and wounded, crossed the Rappahannock."
In the spirited encounter near Buckland's Mills,
Oct. 19th, in which Stuart, aided by a flank attack
from Fitz Hugh Lee, worsted Kilpatiick by force of
numbers, Custer's brigade bore tha brunt of the
attack, and did most of the fighting on our side.
This fight terminated the active campaign of 1863
for Custer's brigade, which subsequently guarded the
upper fords of the Rapidan.
On the 9th of February, 1864, Gen. Custer was
maiTied at Monroe, Michigan, to Miss Elizabeth
Bacon, only daughter of Judge Daniel S. Bacon of
Monroe. When he rejoined his command at Stevens-
burg a few days later, his wife accompanied him,
and she remained in camp till the opening of the
spring campaign of 1864. The marriage was, as far
as Custer was concerned, the consequence of love at
first sight, and ever proved to be for both parties a
Lappy one.
Late in February, 1864, Gen. Custer crossed the
Rapidan vrith 1500 cavalry iu light marching order,
flanking Lee's army on the west, and pushed rapidly
ahead to within four miles of Charlottesville, where
be found his progress arrested by a far superior force.
He then turned northward toward Stannardsville
where he again encountered the enemy, and after*
skirmishing, returned to his camp followed by some
hundreds of refugees from slavery. This raid was
designed to draw attention from a more formidable
one led by Kilpatrick at the same time.
V
i. ' i
■f'i
*■' r
CHAPTER XIV.
a biogbapmoal sketch of majob-gbnebal ousteb,
(continued.)
In the spring of 1864, Gen. Grant was placed at
the head of all the Union armies ; Gen. Sheridan
was called to command the cavalry corps in place of
Gen. rieasonton; and Custer with his brigade was
transferred to the First division under Torbert.
In May, the Army of the Potomac once more ad-
vanced to the Rapidan and crossed it. In the battle
of the Wilderness, owing to the character of the field,
the cavalry were compelled to remain almost idle
spectators, but subsequently, at Spottsylvania C. H.,
Torbert's division was seriously engaged.
On the 9th of May, Gen. Sheridan started out on
his first great cavaliy raid toward Richmond. At
Beaverdam Station he inflicted great damage on the
railroads, destroyed much property, and liberated 400
Union prisoners on their way to Richmond. Contin-
uing his march, he found, at Yellow Tavern a few
miles north of Richmond, Stuart's cavalry drawn up
to oppose his passage. A spirited fight ensued, re-
sulting in the death of Stuart and the dispersion of
his troops. Our cavalry pressed on down the road to
Richmond, and Custer's brigade attacked and carried
the outer line of defenses, and took 100 prisoners.
mm
WITH SHERIDAN IN THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 99
The second line of works was too strong to be taken
by cavalry, and Sheridan was obliged to retreat.
Beating off assailants both in front and rear he crossed
the Chickahominy, pushed southward to Haxall'a
Landing on the James Eiver, and then leisurely re-
turned by way of White House and Hanover C. H.
to Grant's army, amving in time to be present at the
sanguinary battle of Cool Arbor.
On the 9th of June, Custer accompanied Sheridan
on a raid around Lee's army. They struck the rail-
road at Trevilian's, drove off a large force of the
enemy and broke up a long section of the road. Re-
tracing their steps to Trevilian's, they had there a
spirited contest with Fitz Hugh Lee, and then drew
off and rejoined Gen. Gran*. During this raid Sher-
idan lost over 700 men, and captured 400 prisoners.
In the autumn of 1864, two divisions of cavalry
under Torbert were with Sheridan's army operating
in the Shenandoah Valley. Custer's brigade was in
the First division, commanded by Merritt. Averill
commanded the Second division.
Having received from Gen. Grant the order, " Go
in " — the only instructions which Grant deemed it
necessary to give — Sheridan, Sept. 19th, attacked the
Confederate forces at Opequan Creek The artillery
opened along the whole line, the columns moved
steadily forward, and Gen. Early soon discovered that
Sheridan w^a in earnest. Early's position was a
strong one, and he stubbornly held it until the
cavaliy bugkiwere heard on his right, as the firm-set
squadrons bore fiercely down. Rolled up before the
impetuous charge, the rebel line at length crumbled
into fragments, and the whole army broke in utter con-
fusion and was sent " whirling through Winchester "
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100
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
followed until dark by the pursuing cavalry. 3000
prisoners were taken.
Three days later Sheridan attacked Early at Fish-
er's Hill — a strong position to which he had retired —
and again forced him to retreat with a loss of 1100
men taken prisoners. The cavalry pursued so sharp-
ly and persistently, that Early left the valley and took
refuge in the mountains where cavalry could not
operate.
On the 26th of Sept., Custer was transferred from
the command of the Michigan brigade in the First
division to the head of the Second division ; but
before lie was able to reach his new command, he was
placed at the head of the Third division, with which
he had formerly been connected under Kilpatrick.
When Sheridan moved back throrgh the valley
from Port Republic to Strasburg, sparing the houses,
but burning all the barns, mills and hay-stacks, and
driving off all the cattle, his rear was much harassed
by the rebel cavalry under Gen. Rosser — a class-mate
of Custer's at West Point ; and on the night of Oct.
8th, Sheridan ordered Torbert to " stai-t out at day-
light, and whip the rebel cavalry or get whipped him-
self." Accordingly on the'next morning th() cavalry,
led on by Merritt and Custer and supported by bat-
teries, swept boldly out to attack a larger force drawn
up in battle array. At the first charge upon them
Rosser's men broke and fled, but subsequently rallied,
and were again pushed back and utterly routed.
Rosser lost all his artillery but one piece, and every-
thing else which was carried on wheels, and was J)ur-
aued to Mt. Jackson, 26 miles distant. Of this affair,
Gen. Torbert reported : —
"The First Division captured five pieces of artillwy, their
A BRILLUNT VICTORY— AN EARLY SURPRISE. 101
ordnance, ambulance, and wagon trains, and 60 prisoners. The
Third Divison captured six pieces of artillery, all of their head-
quarter wagons, ordnance, ambulance, and wagon trains. There
could hardly have been a more complete victory and rout. The
cavalry totally covered themselves with glory, and added to their
long list of victories the most brilliant one of them all, and the
most decisive the country has ever witnessed."
On the 15th of Oct., Sheridan started on a flying
visit to WashiLgton, leaving his army encamped on
three ridges or hills. The crest nearest the enemy
was held by the Array of West Virginia under Crook ;
half a mile to the rear of this was the second one, held
by the 19th Corps under Emory; and still further to
the rear, on the third crest, was the 6th Corps under
Oen. Wright, who commanded the whole army during
Sheridan's absence. The cavalry under Torbert lay to
the right of the 6th Corps.
Gen. Early, having resolved to surprise and attack
the Union army, started out his troops on a dark and
foggy night, and advanced unperceived and unchal-
lenged in two columns along either flank of the 6th
Corps. The march was noiseless ; and trusty guides
led the steady columns through the gloom, now push-
ing through the dripping trees and now fording a
stream, till at length, an hour before day-break, Oct.
1 8th, Early's troops, shivering with cold, stood within
600 yards of Crook's camp. Two of Crook's pickets
had come in at 2 a. m. and reported a heavy, muffled
tramp heard at the front; but though some extra
precautions were taken, no one dreamed that an at-
tack would be made.
Crook's troops, slumbering on unconscious of danger,
were awakened at daybreak by a deafening yell and
the crack of musketry on either flank; following
which, charging lines regardless of the pickets came
34
m:>¥
mil
102
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
immediately on over the breastworks. The surprise
was complete, and after a biief struggle the Array of
West Virginia was flying in confusion toward the
second hill occupied by the 19th Corps. Emory at-
tempted to stop the progress of the enemy, but they
got in his rear, u.ivi his command soon broke and fled
with the rest toward the hill where the 6th Corps lay.
Gen. Wright formed a new line of battle, and re-
pulsed a tremendous charge of the enemy, thus ob-
taining time to cover the immense crowd of fugitives
that darkened the rear. A general retreat was then
begun and continued in good order till 10 a. m.
when, the enemy having ceased to advance, Wright
halted and commenced reorganizing the scattered
troops. The cavalry, being at the rear and extreme
right, had not suffered in the first assault on the
Union army, but they were subsequently transferred
to the left flank, and did brave service in covering
the retreat of the infantry.
Meanwhile Sheridan, returning from Washington,
had slept at Winchester 20 miles distant, and in the
morning rode leisurely toward his army. The
vibrations of artillery at first surprised him, and he
soon became aware that a heavy battle was raging
and that his army was retreating. Dashing his spurs
into his horse he pushed madly along the road, and
soon left his escort far behind. Further on he met
fugitives from the army, who declared that all was
lost. As the cloud of fugitives thickened he shouted,
as he drove on and swung his cap, " Face the other
way, boys; we are going back to our camp; we
are going to lick them out of their boots." The
frightened stragglers paused, and then turned back.
On arriving at the front, where the work cf reorgan-
THE CAVALRY AT CEDAR CREEK.
103
ization was already well advanced, Sheridan inspired
his men with new courage by his appearance and
words. For two hours he rode back and forth in
fi-ont of the line, encouraging the troops ; and when
the order was given, "The entire line will advance,
etc.," the infantry went steadily forward upon th«
enemy. Eai-ly's front was soon carried, while his
left was partly turned back ; and after much desper-
ate fighting, his astonished troops turned and fled in
utter confusion over the field.
" As they streamed down into the Middletown meadow," says
Headley, "Sheridan saw that the time for the cavalry had
come, and ordered a charge. The bugles pealed forth their
stirring notes, and the dashing squadrons of Custer and Merritt
came down like a clattering tempest on the right and left,
doubling up the rebel flanks, and cleaving a terrible path through
the broken ranks. Back to, and through our camp, which they
had swept like a whirlwind in the morning, the panic-stricken
rebels went, pellmell, leaving all the artillery they had captured,
and* much of their own, and strewing the way with muskets,
clothing, knapsacks, and everything that could impede their
flight. The infantry were too tired to continue the pursuit, but
the cavalry kept it up, driving them through Strasburg to Fisher's
Hill, and beyond, to Woodstock, sixteen miles distant."
After the battle of Cedar Creek and during the
wiaiter of 1864 — 5, Sheridan's army, including Cus-
ter's division, remained inactive, occupying canton-
ments around Winchester.
On the 27th of Feb., Sheridan started out on his last ■
great raid, taking with him Gen. Merritt as chief of
cavalry, the !Pii*st and Third divisions of cavalry
under Generals Devin and Custer, artillery, wagons,
and pack-mules. The raiding column, including ar-
tillerymen and teamsters, numbered 10,000 men.
Moving rapidly up the Shenaftdoah Valley over the
turnpike road, they passed many villages without
104
LIFE OF QBNKRAL CUSTER.
:'■■* I
halting or opposition, and on the 29th, approached
Mount Crawford, where Rosser with 400 men dis-
puted the passage over a stream and attempted to
hum the bridge ; but Col. Capehart of Custer's com-
mand, which was in advance, by a bold dash drove
Rosser away and saved the bridge.
Custer now pushed on to Waynesboro' and finding
Early intrenched there, immediately attacked him.
The result, as told by Sheridan, was as follows : —
" Gen. Custer found Gen. Early in a well chosen position, with
two brigades of infantry, and some cavalry under Rosser, the
infantry occupying breastworlts. Custer, without waiting for the
enemy to get up courage over the delay of a careful reconnois-
ance, made his dispositions for attack at once. Sending three
regiments around the left flank of the enemy, Custer with the
other two brigades, partly mounted and partly dismounted, at a
given signal attacked and impetuously carried the enemy's works ;
while the Eight New York and the First Connecticut cavalry,
who were formed in columns of fours, charged over the breast-
works, and continued the charge through the streets of Waynes-
boro', sabring a few men as they went along, and did not stop
until they had crossed the South Fork of the Shenandoah,
(which was immediately in Early's rear) where they formed as
foragers, and with drawn sabres held the east bank of the stream.
The enemy threw down their arms and suri'endere'd, with cheers
at the suddenness with which they had been captured."
Sixteen hundred prisoners, 11 pieces of artillery,
200 loaded wagons, and 17 battle-flags were captured
single-handed by Custer at Waynesboro', while his
own loss was less than a dozen men. Vast amounts
of public property were subsequently destroyed. The
prisoners were sent to Winchester under guard.
Pushing on across the Blue Ridge in a heavy rain
during the night after Early's defeat, Custer, still in
the van, approached Charlottesville the next after-
noon, and was met by the authorities, who surrendered
m 'nl
B
LAST RAID OF THE CAVALRY.
105
to him the keys of the public buildings as a token of
Bubniission. The balance of the column soon came up,
and two days were spent in destroying bridges, mills,
and the railroad leading to Lynchburg.
Sheridan now divided his command, and sent
Merritt and Devin to destroy the canal from Scotts-
ville to New Market, while he and Cutter tore up
the - ilroads as far west as Amherst C. H. The col-
umns united again at New Market on the James
River ; and as the enemy had burned the bridges so
they could not cross to the south side, they moved
eastward behind Lee's army, destroying bridges, canals,
railroads and supplies, 'thus inflicting a more serious,
blow to the confederate cause than any victories by
land or sea gained during the last campaign. Then
thfiy swept around by the Paraunkey River and.
White House, and joined Grant's besieging army in
front of Petersburg, March 27th. They encamped,
on the extreme left of the lines, close to their oldj
comrades of the Second Division of cavalry, (now
under Gen. Crook) who hero again came under Sheri-
dan's command.
#ff
CHAPTER XV.
a bioobapmoal sketch of majob-oenebax ousteb.
(continued.)
The final struggle for the possession of Riclimond.
and Petersburg was now commenced by an extension
of the Union lines westward, Grant's object being to
attack the right flank of the Confederates.
On the 29th of March, Sheridan, with his cavalry,
moved southwest to Dinw iddie 0. H., where Devin's
and Crook's divisions halted for the night. Custer
was some distance in the rear protecting the train.
In the morning, Devin pushed the enemy back north-
erly to their intrenchments at Five Forks ; but being
unable to advance further, he returned to Dinwiddie
C. H. Gen. Warren, with the 5th Infantry Corps, had
meantime been put under. Sheridan's command as a
support to the cavalry, but had not yet come up.
The next day, Slst, Lee's troops attacked Warren
unexpectedly, and drove two of his divisions back
upon a third, where their advance was stopped ; and
with the assistance of Humphrey's 2nd Corps, the
enemy were driven back into their entrenched position
along the White Oak road. Then the rebgl infantry
moved westward along the road to Five Forks, and
attacked Devin, who, earlier in the day, had advanced
to Five Forks and carried that position, i >f vin was
driven out in disorder and forced back, «,ud a'*'^r some
BEFORE PETERSBURG-FIVE FORKS.
lor
difficulty rejoined Crook's division at Dinwiddie C.
H. The confederates now assailed Sheridan with a
supenor force, but could make no headway, and
during the night they withdrew.
Meantime Custer, and Gei.. '^oKcnzie with 1,000
additional cavalry, had joined Siieridan, and Warren
was within supporting di'-tunce At daybreak the
cavalry advanced steadilj on the enemy, and by noon
had driven them behind their works at Five Forks,
and were menacing their fiont. Warren was now
ordered forward, and after more delay than Sheridan
deemed n'ecessaiy, he reached his assigned ^ osition and
charged furiously westward on the enemy's left flank.
Custer and Devin at the same time charged their right
flank and front. Thus assailed by double their num-
bers the rebel infantry fought on with great gallantry
and fortitude ; but at length their flank defenses were
carried by Warren's troops, and simultaneously the
cavalry swept over their works. A large portion of
the enemy surrendered, and the balance fled westward,
pursued by Custer and McKenzie; 6,000 prisoners
were taken.
The next morning, Sunday, April 2nd, at daybreak,
a geiieral assault was made by Grant's army upon the
defences of Petersburg, and some of them were carried.
Lee telegraphed to Davis that Richmond must be
evacuated ; and by night the Confederate rule in that
city was ended, and Davis and his Government on the
way by railroad to Danville. Lee's troops withdrew
from Richmond and Petersburg the same night, and
marched rapidly westward to Amelia C. H. on the
Danville railroad, where they halted, April 4th and
5th, to gather supplies of food from the country.
Meantime, the Union aimy was pursuing the
108
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
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retreating Confederates and making every effort to
prevent their escape. Custer and Devin moved south-
westerly toward Burkesville destroying the railroad^
and then joined Crook, McKenzie, and the 5th Corps
at Jetersville five miles west of Amelia C. H. Sher-
idan intrenched his infantry across the railroad, sup-
ported them by his cavalry, and felt prepared to stop
the passage of Lee's whole army. Lee, however, find-
ing his way to Danville thus blocked, moved north-
erly around Sheridan's left, and thence westerly
toward Farmville on the Appomattox River. Gen.
Davies, of Crook's division, made a reconnoisance
and struck Lee's train moving ahead of his troops^
destroying wagons, and taking prisoners. A fight
followed, and Davies fell back to Jetersville where
nearly the whole army was then concentrated.
On the morning of the 6th, Crook, Custer, and
Devin started out in pursuit. Crook, who was in
advance, was ordered to attack the trains, and if the
enemy was too strong, another division was to pasa
him, while he held fast and pressed the enemy, and
attack ;it a point further on — thus alternating until
some vulnerable point was found. Crook came upon
Lee's columns near Deatonsville, and charged upon
them, determined to detain them at any cost. Crook
was finally repulsed, but his action gave Custer time
to push ahead, and strike further on at Sailor's Creak.
Crook and Devin came promptly to Custer's support,
and he pierced the line of mai'ch, destroyed 400
wagons, and took many prisoners. Elwell's division
was separated from Lee, who was further ahead, and
being enclosed between the cavalry in front and the
infantry on their rear, the troops threw down their
arms and suiTendered.
BAILOR'S CREEK AND APPOMATTOX.
lOd
and
»
That evening Lee ci ossed the Appomattox at Farm-
ville, and tried to burn the bridges behind him, but
troops arrived in season to save one of them: Lee
halted five miles beyond Farmville, intrenched him*
self, and repulsed an attack from the infantry. At
night he silently resumed his retreat.
On the morning of the 7th, Custer and Devin^
under Merritt, were sent on a detour to the left, to
cut off retreat toward Danville should it be attempted ;
while Crook forded the Appomattox and attacked a
train. On the 8th, Sheridan concentrated the cavalry
at Prospect Station, and sent Merritt, Custer, and
Devin swiftly ahead 28 miles to Appomattox Station,,
where, he had learned from scouts, were four trains
loaded with supplies for Lee, just arrived from
Lynchburg.
Gen. Custer took the lead, and on reaching the
railroad station he skillfully surrounded and captured
the trains. Then, followed by Devin, he hurried on
five miles further to Appomattox C. H., where he
confronted the van of Lee's army, inmiediately at-
tacked it, and by night had turned it back on the
main column, and captured prisoners, wagons, guns,
and a hospital train. The balance of the cavalry
hurried up, and a position was taken directly across
the road, in front of Lee's army.
By a forced march the infantry under Griffin and
Ord, supporting the cavalry, reached the rear of
Sheridan's position by daybreak the next morning.
Grant and Mead were pressing closely on Lee's rear,
and Lee saw there was no escape for him unless
he could break through the cavalry force which he
supposed alonu disputed his passage. He therefore
ordered his infantry to advance. The result of thia
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LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
charge, the last one made by the Army of Virgiuia,
is thus described in Greeley's "Amencan Gmiflict " : —
" By Sheridan's orders, his troopers, who were in line of battle
dismounted, gave ground gradually, while showing a steady
Aront, so as to allow our weary infantry time to form and take
position. This elFected, the horsemen moved swiftly to the right,
and mounted, revealing lines of solid infantry in battle array,
before whose wall of gleaming bayonets the astonished enemy
recoiled in blank despair, as Sheridan and his troopers, passing
briskly around the rebel left, prepared to charge the confused,
reeling masses. A white flag was now waved by the enemy
before Gen. Custer, who held our cavalry adviince, with the in-
formation that they had concluded to sun'ender."
The next day, April 9th, Gen. Custer, who had
been brevetted Major-General after the battle of
Cedar Creek, issued the following complimentary
order to his troops: —
Head-Quartebs Third Cavalry Division. )
Appomattox Court House, Va., April 9, 1865. )
SOLDIERS OF THE THIRD CAVALRY DIVISION :—
With profound gratitude toward the God of battles, by whose
blessings our enemies have b^en humbled and our arms rendered
triumphant, your Commanding General avails himself of this his
first opportunity to express to you his admiration of the heroic
manner in which j'ou have passed through the series of battles
which to-day resulted in the surrender of the enemy's entire army.
The record established by your indomitable courage is unpar-
alleled in the annals of war. Your prowess has won for you even
the respect and admiration of yova enemies. During the past
«ix months, although in most instances confronted by superior
numbers, you have captured from the enemy, in open battle. 111
pieces of field artillery, 65 battle-flags, and upward of 10,000
prisoners of war including seven general oflUcers. "Within the
last ten days, and included in the above, you have captured 46
field-pieces of artillery and 87 battle-flags. Tou have never lost
a gun, never lost a color, and have never been defeated ; and not-
withstanding the numerous engagements in which j'ou have borne
a prominent part, including those memorable battles of the
fihenandoah, you have captured every piece of artillery which the
A FLAG OF TRUCE-THE GREAT PARADE.
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€neinyhas dared to open upon you. The near approach of peace
renders it improbable that you will again be called upon to un-
dergo the fatigues of the toilsome march, or the exposure of the
battle-field ; but should the assistance of keen blades wielded by
your sturdy arms be required to hasten the comiag of that
glorious peace for which we have been so long contending, the
General Commanding is firmly confident that, in the future as in
the past, every demand will meet a hearty and willing response.
Let us hope that our work is dene, and that blessed with the
comforts of peace, we may be permitted to enjoy the pleasures
of home and friends. For cur comrades who have fallen, let us
ever cherish a grateful remembrance. To the wounded xad to
those who languish in Southern prisons, let our heartft it sym-
pathy be tendered.
And now, speaking for myself alone, when the war is ehded
and the task of the historian begins ; when those deeds of daring
■which have rendered the name and fame of the Third Cavalry'
Division imperishable are inscribed upon the bright pages of
our country's history', I only ask that my name may be written as
that of the Commander of the Third Cavalry Division.
Lee's flag of truce at Appomattox — a white towel
— and also the table on which Grant and Lee signed
the capitulation agreement, were presented to Mrs.
Custer by Gen. Sheridan, and are now in her posses-
sion. In a letter accompanying them Sheridan wrote,
that he "knew of no person more instrumental in
bringing about this most desired event than her own
most gallant husband."
In the great parade of the Army of the Potomac at
Washington in May 1865, Sheridan's cavalry were at
at the head of the column ; and the Third Division,
first in peace as it had been first in war, led the ad-
vance. Custer, now a Major-General of volunteers, at
the age of 26 years, rode proudly at the head of his
troopers, a prominent figure in the stirring pageant,
and the observed of all beholders. He had put off
for the occasion his careless dashmg style of dress,
112
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
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and wore, with becoming dignity, the full regulation,
uniform of a Major-General.
Shortly after the parade, Custer was sent to Texas,
where he had command of a cavalry division at
Austin, but no active service became necessary. In
March, 1866, he was mustered out 'of service as a
Major-General, and took rank as a Captain, assigned
to the 5th Cavalry, U. S. A. Soon afterward, ke
applied to Senor Romero, Minister from Mexico, for
a position as chief of President Juarez's cavalry, in
his struggle with Maximilian. He presented a letter
of introduction from General Grant in which he was
spoken oi in the most complimentary terms. Romero
was anxious to secure his servicos, and made him
liberal offers ; but as Custer could not obtain leave
of absence {rpm his Government, the contemplated
arrangement was not completed.
CHAPTER XVI.
A BIOGEAPHIOAL SKETCH OF MAJOB-GEITEBAL OUSTER.
(oOimNUED.)
In July, 1866, Custer received from Andrew John-
son, a commission as Lieut. Col. of the 7th Cavaliy — a
new regiment ; and after accompanying the President
on his famous tour through the country, he proceeded
to Fort Riley, Kansas.
In the spring of 1867, an expedition under Gen.
Hancock marched from Fort Riley to Fort Larned
near the Arkansas River, and the 7th Cavalry, under
Lieut. Col. Custer, accompanied it. The dissatisfied
Indians had been invited by the Indian agent to
meet Hancock in council at Fort Larned, and had
agreed to do so ; but as they failed to appear at the
appointed time, Hancock started for a village of
Sioux and Cheyenne Indians, distant some 30 miles
from the fort. On the way he met several of the
chiefs, and they agreed to hold a council at Hancock's
camp on the next day, April 14th. As none of the
chiefs came, as promised, Hancock again started for
their village, and soon came upon several hundred
Indians drawn up in battle array directly across his
path. The troops were immediately formed in line
of battle, and then the General, with some of his
officers and the interpreter, rode forward and invited
114
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
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the chiefs to a meeting between the lines, which were
half a mile apart. The invitation was accepted;
several chiefs advanced to the officers, and a friendly-
interview was holden — all seeming pleased at the
peaceful turn things had taken. The result of the
" talk " was an arrangement for a council to be held
at Hancock's headquarters after he had camped near
the Indian village, toward which both parties then
proceeded. It was ascertained on reaching it that the
women and children had been sent away ; and during
the night the warriors, unobserved by the white men,
also fled, leaving their lodges and stores.
Mistrusting something of the kind, Custer, with the
cavalry, had during the night stealthily surrounded
the village, and on entering it later found it deserted.
Pursuit of the Indians was commenced, but their trail
soon scattered so it could not be followed. After
burning the deserted village, the expedition returned
to Fort Hayes, where the 7th Cavalry wintered.
The next summer, Custer with several companies
of his regiment and 20 wagons, was ocnt on a long
scouting expedition to the southward in search of
Indians. Leaving Fort Hayes In June, he proceeded
to Fort McPherson on the Platte River, and thence to
the forks of the Republican River in the Indian
country. From this place he sent Major J. A. Elliott,
on the 23d of June, with ten men and one guide, to
carry despatches to Gen. Sherman at Fort Sedgwick,
100 miles distant. The wagons, escorted by cavalry,
were alst startec? .he same day to procure supplies
from Fort "Wallace, about the same distance away in
an opposite direction.
Early the next morning, an attack was made on
the camp, but the soldiers rallied so promptly and
ADVENTURES OF A SCOUTING EXPEDITION.
115
eJBEectively that the Indians soon withdrew. Interpret-
ers were then sent toward them, who arranged for a
council which was held near by. After an unsatis-
factory interview, Custer returned to his camp and
started in pursuit of the Indians, but was unable to
overtake them.
On the fifth day after his depai-ture, Major Elliott
returned in safety to the camp. He had traveled
only by night, and had seen no Indians. The wagon
train was not so fortunate. It reached Fort Wallace
safely, and started to return escorted by 48 troopers.
On the way it was attacked by a large number of
Indians, who for three hours kept up a running fight
around the circle. The wagons moved forward in
two strings, with the cavalry horses between them
for safety, and the dismounted soldiers defended
them so successfully that their progress forward was
uninterrupted. Meanwhile Custer, fearing for the
safety of the train, had sent out cavalry to meet it ;
and their approach caused the Indians to cease from
their attack and vnthdraw. The balance of the
journey was safely accomplished.
Kesuming his march, Custer again struck the Platte,
some distance west of Fort Sedgwick. Here he
learned by telegraph that lieut. Kidder with ten men
and an Indian scout had started from Fort Sedgwick,
vnth despatches for Custer dir-^cting him to proceed
to Fort Wallace, shortly after Major Elliott had left
the fort. As Kidder had not returned and Custer
had not seen him, fears for his safety were entertained,
and Custer immediately started for his late camp at
the forks of the Republican. On the way thither
some of his men deserted, and being followed and
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116
LIFE OF GENERAL OUSTER.
refusing to surrender, were fired upon, and three were
wounded.
On reaching the camp, an examination was made by
the Indian guide, and it was ascertained that Kidder's
party had arrived there in safety, and continued on
towards Fort Wallace, over the trail made by the
wagons. In the morning Custer started in pui-suit,
and by noon it became evident by the tracks of their
horses, that Kidder's party had been hard chased for
several miles. Further on one of their horses was
found, shot dead ; and at last the mutilated and
arrow-pierced bodies of the 12 men were found lying
near each other. They had been chased, overtaken,
and killed by the savages. They were buried in one
grave, and the troops proceeded to Fort Wallace.
Custer had been ordered to report to Gen. Hancock
at Fort Wallace, and receive further orders from him ;
but on arriving there he found that the General had
retired to Fort Leavenworth. The location of Fort
Wallace was isolated and remote from railroads, and
as the stock of provisions was low, Custer decide*' to
go for supplies. He started on the evening of July
15th, with 100 men, and arrived at Fort Hayes on the
morning of July 18th, having marched 150 miles,
wioh a loss of two men who had been surprised by
Indians. He then proceeded to Fort Harker, 60 miles
further on, and after making arrangements for the
supplies, obtained from Gen. Smith permission to
visit his wife, who was at Fort Riley, 90 miles
distant by rail.
Soon after this Custer was arraigned before a court-
martial, charged with leaving Fort Wallace without
orders, and making a journey on private business,
during which two soldiers were killed ; also for over-
i;
BATTLE OF THE WASHITA— BLACK KETTLE.
iir
tasking his men on the march, and for cruelty while
quelling a mutiny. After trial, he was pronounced
guilty of a breach of discipline in making a journey
on private business (which he earnestly denied) and
acquitted of the other charges. His sentence was a
suspension of pay and rank for a year, during which
period he remained in private life, while his regiment
was engaged in an expedition under Gen. Sully.
In October, 18 (18, Custer was recalled into service,
and joined his regiment at Fort Dodge on the Arkan-
sas River. Early in Nov., a winter campaign against
the Indians was commenced. Gen. Su. .y, with the 7th
Cavalry, detachments of infantry, and a large supply
train, marched to the bordera of the Indian country
and established a post called Camp Supply.
On the 23d of Nov., Custer with his regiment of
about 800 men started out in a snow storm on a scout
for the enemy. The next day a trail was discovered
and pursued, and at night the troops were in the
valley of the Washita River, and near an Indian
village which had been seen from a distance. The
village was stealthily surrounded, and at daybreak an
attack was made simultaneously by several detach-
ments.
The Indians were taken entirely by surprise. The
warriors fled from the village, but took shelter behind
trees, logs, and the bank of the stream, and fought
with much desperation and courage, but were finally
driven off. The village was captured with its con-
tents, including 50 squaws and children who had re-
mained safely in the lodges during the fight. Some
800 ponies were also captured. On questioning the
squaws, one of them said that she was a sister of the
Cheyenne chief Black Kettle, that it was his village
36
118
LIFE OF QENERAL OUSTER.
iv- !'.
..)
that had been captured, and that several other In-
dian villages were located within ten miles — the
nearest one being only two miles distant.
Before Custer had time to retreat, hostile Indians —
reinforcements from the other villages — arrived in
such number^ as to surround the captured village,
which Custer and his men occupied ; and an attack
was begun which continued nearly all day. The
Indians were finally driven away. The village and
its contents were burned. The captives were allowed
to select ponies to ride an, and the balance of the
drove were shot. The retreat was begun by a march
forward, as if to attack the next village. The Indiana
fled; and after dark Custer moved rapidly back
toward Supply Camp, taking the captives along as-
prisoners of war.
In this engagement, known as the Battle of the
Washita,. Major Elliott, Capt. Hamilton, and 19 pri-
vates were killed, and three officers and 11 privates
wounded. Captains Weir, Benteen, T. W. Custer,
and Lieut. Cook, participated in this fight. It was
estimated that at least 100 Indians were killed, among
whom was the noted chief Black Kettle.
The death of Black Kettle was much regretted by
many white people. Gen. Harney said respecting
him : — " I have worn the uniform of my country 55
years, and I know that Black Kettle was as good a
friend of the United States as I am." Col. A. G. Boone,
a member of the recent Indian Commission, who had
known Black Kettle for years, said teaifully : — " He
was a good man; hewaij my friend; he was mur-
dered."
Early in Dec, the 7th Cavalry and a Kansas cavalry
regiment, accompanied by Gen. Sheridan and stt^.
MARCH TO FORT COBB-LONE WOLF AND 8ATANTA. 119
again started out to look for Indians. The recent
battle-ground was revisited, and then the force pro-
ceeded along the valley of the Washita, finding the
sites of several villages which appeared to have been
lately and hastily removed. Large niirabers of lodge
poles, and robes, utensils, and stores were left behind ;
and a broad trail, leading down the river toward Fort
Cobb, 100 miles distant, showed the direction their
owners had taken when frightened away from their
winter retreat. A pursuit of the trail was commenced,
but it soon branched. The troops continued on, and
when within 20 miles of Fort Cobb, Indians appeared
in front with a flag of truce. They proved to be
Kiowas led by Lone Wolf, Satanta, aud other chiefs.
A council was held, and both parties agreed to pro-
ceed together to Fort Cobb ; and the Indians agreed
that they would then remain on their reservation.
On the way to the fort, many of t> Indians slipped
away, and as Custer then supposed (erroneously) that
Lone Wolf and Satanta had been engaged in the recent
battle and might also escape, he placed them under
guard and took them to Fort Cobb, where they were
held as hostages for the return of the roaming Kiowas,
who finally came in on learning that Sheridan had
determined to hang their chiefs if they failed to do so.
Soon after this. Little Robe — ^a Cheyenne chief, and
Yellow Bear — a friendly Arapahoe, were visiting at
Fort Cobb, and at Custer's suggestion Sheridan per-
mitted him with a small party to go with these chiefs
as a peace embassador. The mission was successful
"as far as the Arapahoes were concerned, and as its
result the whole tribe returned to their reservation.
The effort to arrange with the Cheyennes proving
unavailiijg, Custer with 800 men started, March, 1869,
120
LIFE or GENERAL CUSTER.
',#!/
in pursuit of them. On the 13th of March he arrived
in the vicinity of several Cheyenne villages, one of
which belonged to Little Robe. Several councils were
held with the chiefs ; and it was ascertained that two
white women who had been recently captured in
Kansas were held as captives in one of the villageB.
For this reason Custer could not attack the Indians,
who were still intractable, and had to continue ne-
gotiations with them. They refused to release the
women unless a large ransom was paid.
Custer subsequently seized four of the chiefs, and
threatened to hang them if the white women were
not given up unconditionally. This threat produced
the desired effect, and the women were surrendered.
Custer then marched to the supply camp, taking with
him the captured chiefs, who begged for freedom as
the white women had been given up. Their friends
also entreated for their release ; but Custer assured
them that the Washita prisoners and the captive
chiefs would not be liberated until the Cheyennes re-
turned to their reservation. This they promised to
do, and subsequently kept their word.
ft -i*^ '
!f.
CHAPTER XVII.
a biogbaphical sketch of majob-oensbal ousteb.
(continued.)
A treaty having been made with the Indians and
peace restored, the 7th Cavalry enjoyed a long season
of rest. In the autumn of 1870, it was broken into de-
tachments and distributed to different posts. Custer,
with two companies, was assigned to a post at Eliza-
bethtown, Ky., 40 miles from Louisville, and in this
isolated place he remained two yeai's. During this
period of inaction he engaged in literary pursuits and
wrote an account of his life on the Plains. He also
joined in a buffalo-hunt given on the Plains in honor
of the Russian Grand Duke Alexis, and after the
hunt he and Mrs. Custer accompanied the Duke in
his travels through the Southern States.
In March, 1873, the 7th Cavalry was ordered to
Dakota, and in May was encamped at Fort Rice far
up the Missouri. Here also were assembled other
soldiers, and in July the so-called Yellowstone Expe-
dition, commanded by Gen. D. S. Stanley, started out
on its mission, which was o escort and protect the
engineers and surveyors of the Northern Pacific Rail-
road. The march r^as westward to the Yellowstone
and up its valley, accompanied part of the way by
ste.'.mboata The country was rough and broken, and
122
LIFE OP GENERAL CUSTER.
iin
the wagon trains were got forward with much diffi-
culty. It was Custer's custom to go ahead every day
with a small party of road-hunters, to pick out and
prepare the most suitable road for the train.
On the 4th of Aug., when opposite the mouth of
Tongue River, as Custer and his advance party of
about 100 men were enjoying a noon-day siesta in a
grove on the bank of the river, they were aroused by
the firing of the pickets. A few Indians had made a
dash to stampede the horses which were grazing near
by, and failing in this, were riding back and forth as
if inviting pursuit. The soldiers speedily mounted,
and Custer with 20 men followed the Indians, who
retreated slowly, keeping out of the roach of shot.
After going nearly two miles the retreating Indians
faced about as if to attack, and simultaneously, 300
mounted warriors emerged from a forest and dashed
forward. Custer's men immediately dismounted, and
while five of them held the horses, the remainder,
with breech-loading carbines, awaited the enemy's
charge. Several rapid volleys were sufficient to re-
pulse the Indians, and cause them to take shelter
iu the woods from which they came.
Just then the remainder of Custer's men came up,
and the whole force retreated to the resting place
they had so lately vacated. The horses were shel-
tered in the timber, and the men took advantage of a
natural terrace, using it as a breastwork. The Indians
had followed them closely, and now made persistent
but unsuccessful attempts to drive them from their
position. Being defeated in this, they next tried to
burn them out by setting fire to the grass. After
continuing their assault for several hours, the Indians
withdrew at the approach of the main column, and
hh^A ...
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—
Lrt-w-J.
"1,"
THE "REVENGE OF RAIN IN THE FACE.'
123
Cluster and the fresh troops chased them several miles.
The same day, tw^o elderly civilians connected with
the expedition were murdtjred while riding in advance
of the main column. Nearly two years later, Charles
Reynolds, a scout subsequently killed at the battle
of the Little Big Horn, while at Standiig Rock
Agency, heard an Indian who was "counting his
<!Oiips" or in other words rehearsing his great achieve-
ments, boast of killing two white men on the Y3II0W-
stone. From his description of the victims and the
articles he exhibited, Reynolds knew that he was the
murderer of the two men.
The name of this Indian was Rain in the Face.
He was subsequently arrested by Captains Yates and
€u8ter, and taken to Fort Lincoln where he was in-
terviewed by Gen. Custer and finally confessed the
deed. He was kept a close prisoner in the guard-
house for several months, but managed to escape, and
joined Sitting Bull's band. It is thought by some that
he was the identical Indian who killed Gen. Custer,
and that he did it by way of revenge for his long im-
prisonment. There seems to be no real foundati9n
for this theory ; but the " Revenge of Rain in the
Face " will probably go down to posterity as an his-
torical truth, as it has already been immortalized in
verse by one of our most gifted poets, who seems, how-
ever, to have overlooked the fact that Gen. Custer's
body was not mutilated.
A week after the affair on the Yellowstone a large
Indian trail was discovered leading up the river, and
Custer was sent in pursuit. On arriving near the
mouth of Big Horn River, it was discovered that the
enemy had crossed the Yellowstone in " bull boats."
As Custer had no means of getting across, he camped
124
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
»
m
t t
for the night. Early the next morning he was at-
tacked by several hundred warriors, some of whom
had doubtless recrossed the river for that purpose.
Sitting Bull was commander of the Indians, and large
numbers of old men, squaws, and children were
assembled on the high bluffs and mounds along the
river to witness the tight. After considerable skir-
mishing Custer ordered his troops to charge, and as
they advanced the Indians fled, and were pursued
some distance.
In these two engagements our loss was four men
killed, and two were wounded. Custer's horse was
shot under him. There was no further trouble with
the Indians, and the expedition returned to Fort Rice
about the Ist of October. Later in the autumn. Gen.
Custer was assigned to the command of Fort Lincoln,
on the Missouri River, opposite the town of Bismark.
In the summer of 1874, a militaiy expedition to ex-
plore the Black Hills was decided on, and Gen. Custer
was selected to command it. The column of 1,200
troops, escorting a corps of scientists, etc., started from
Fprt Lincoln, July 1st, moved southwesterly about
250 miles to the Black Hills, and then explored the
region. No trouble was experienced with Indians,
and the expedition returned to Fort Lincoln in Sep-
tember.
Mrs. Custer had accompanied her husband to the
Plains when he first went thither, and excepting when
he was engaged in some active campaign or both were
East, she shared with him the hardships, privations,
and pleasures of frontier life. Mrs. Champney,
speaking of her in the Independent, says: — "She
followed the general through all liis campaigns, her
constant aim being to make life pleasant for her
MRS. CUSTER.
125
husband and for his command. General Custer's
officers were remarkably attached to him ; to a man
they revered and admired his wife. She was with
him not only in the idleness of summer camp-life,
when the days passed in a dohefar mVw^e resembling
a holiday picnic; but in ruder and more dangerous-
enterprises she was, as far as he would permit, his con-
stant companion."
When Gen. Custer wa* ordered to Fort Lincoln
Mrs. Custer went there with him ; that retired post
was their home for the remainder of his life, and when
he started out on his last campaign she parted with
him there.
I
i '
CHAPTER XYIII.
a biogeaphioal sketch "of major-geneeal ouster.
(continued.)
"When a campaign against the rcming hostile
Indians was decided on in 1876, Lieut. Col. Custer
was naturally selected as the leader of the Dakota
<;olumn, which was organized at Fort Lincoln, and
mainly composed of his regiment.
About this time a Congressional coinmitte at
"Washington were investigating the charges against
Gen. Belknap, who had recently resigned the office of
Secretary of "War. Many peisons w^re called to tes-
tify; and while Custer was actively engaged in
organizing the Sioux expedition, he received a tele-
graphic summons to appear before the committee.
On the receipt of the summons, Custer telegraphed
to Gen. Terry, the Department Commander, informing
liim of the fact, stating that what he knew as to any
charges against the "War Department was only from
hearsay evidence, and asking his advice as to what he
had better do. Terry, who was a lawyer as well as a
soldier, in reply informed Custer that his services
were indispensable, and that he feared it would delay
the expedition if he had to go to "Washington. He
suggested that if Custer knew nothing of the matter,
he might perhaps get excused from going there.
1
BEFORE THE CONGRESSIONAL COMMITTEE,
127
After hearing from Terry, Custer telegraphed to the
chairman of the committee as follows ; —
" While I hold myself in readiness to obey the summons of
your committee, I telegraph to state that 1 am engaged upon an
important expedition, intended to operate against the hostile
Indians, and I expect to take the field early in April. My
presence here is very necessary. In view of this, would it not
be satisfactory for you to forward to me such questions as may
be necessary, allowing me to return my replies by mail."
As the committee would not consent to the plan
proposed, Custer went to Washington, and was de-
tained there on this business about one month. He
was severely cross-examined, but the result showed that
he knew but little of the matter in controversy. All
he could say of his own knowledge was, that a con-
tractor had turned over to him at Fort Lincoln a
quantity of grain, which he suspected had been
stolen from the Indian Department, as the sacks bore
the Indian brand. He had at first refused to receive
the grain, and had informed the Department com-
mander of his suspicions. He had received in reply
an order to accept the grain ; and he believed that the
order emanated from the Secretary of War, and so
testified before the committee. On returning west,
he learned from Gen. Terry that he alone was respon-
sible for the order to receive the grain ; and there-
upon, Custer telegraphed the fact to Mr. Clymer, and
added : — " As I would not knowingly do injustice to
any individual, I ask that this telegram may be ap-
pended to and made part of my testimony before
your committee."
On being discharged by the committee, Custer, for
the third time it is said, called at the White House,
hoping to remove the wrong impression and misunder-
standing as to his action before the committee which,
'
128
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
*, '^
li
I* '• '
'h
lie had learned from private sources, the President
had received and still entertained. He did not how-
ever succeed in getting an interview, and it is said
that Gen. Grant even refused to see him.
Leaving the White House, Custer proceeded to the
office of Gen. Sherman, and learned that the General
had gone to New York, but was expected back that
evening. Custer then took the train for Chicago, and
on arriving there was halted by Gen. Sheridan who
had received from Gen. Sherman a telegram dated
May 2nd, as follows : —
'' I am this moment advised that General Custer started las^i
night for Saint Paul and Fort Abraham Lincoln. He was not
justified in leaving without seeing the President or myself.
Please intercept him at Chicago or Saint Paul, and order him to
halt and await further orders. Meanwhile let the expedition
from Fort Lincoln proceed without him."
Gen. Custer was of course greatly surprised on
learning that such a telegram had been received, and
he immediately telegraphed to Gen. Sherman a state,
ment of the circumstances under which he left Wash-
ington. He reminded the General that at their last
interview he had stated that he would start west May
1st, and had been told in reply that it was the best
thing he could do ; he said further that he had every
reason to believe, that in leaving Washington when
he did he was acting in accordance with the General's
advice and wishes ; and in conclusion, he reminded
the General of his promise that he should go in com-
mand of his regiment, and asked that justice might be
done him. Receiving no answer to this message, he
again telegraphed to Sherman asking as a favor that
he might proceed to Fort Lincoln where his family
was. In reply, Sherman telegraphed as follows : —
m
CUSTER'S APPEAL TO THE PRESIDENT.
129
"Before receipt of yours, I had sent orders to Gen. Sheridan,
to permit you to go to Fort Lincoln on duty, but the President
adheres to his conclusion that you are not to go on the expedition."
Sherman's orders to Sheridan were as follows : —
" I have received your despatch of to-day, announcing Gen.
Custer's arrival. Have just come ftom the President, who orders
that Gen. Custer be allowed to rejoin his post, to remain there on
duty, but not to accompany the expedition supposed to be on the
point of starting against the host."e Indians, under Gen. Terry."
General Custer accordingly started for Fort Lincoln,
and on arriving at Saint Paul, May 6th, he addressed
the following letter to President Grant : —
" To His Excellency the Pbesipent, through Military Channels :
I have seen your order transmitted through the General of
the army, directing that I be not permitted to accoLipany the
expedition about to move against hostile Indians. As uy entire
regiment forms a part of t^e proposed expedition, and as I am
the senior officer of the regiment on duty in this Department, I
respectfully but most earnestly request that while not allowed to
go in command of the expedition, I may be permitted to serve
with my regiment in the field. I appeal to you as a soldier to
spare me the humiliation of seeing m^*^ regiment march to meet
the enemy and I not to share its dangers."
This appeal to the President was forwarded by Gen.
Terry with the following communication : —
" In forwarding the above, I wish to say expressly, that I have
no desire to question the orders of the President, or of my
military superiors. Whether Lieut. Col. Custer shall be per-
mitted to accompany my column or not, I shall go in command
of it. I do not know the reasons upon which the orders already
given rest ; but if those reasons do not forbid it, Lieut, Col.
Custer's services would be very valuable with his command."
It may be well to state here the probable causes
of the unfriendly feeling which Gen. Grant at this
period manifested toward one whom he had "endorsed
to a high degree'' ten years previously. The Con-
gressional committee hitherto mentioned, had been
130
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
ii
:■
\
i.
^ma
appointed by the Opposition members of the House,
and some of its proceedings had, doubtless, annoyed
and vexed the Preaident. Gen. Babcock had been
on his staff during the war, and enjoyed his friend-
ship and support even after the damaging disclosures
respecting the sale of the post-traders],';: at a western
fort. Attempts had also been made about this time
to injure Grant's administration, by seeking to iden-
tify it with the frauds which had been discovered, or
which were suspected, and he naturally considered
those who volunteered information to the committee
as unfriendly to himself.
It was currently reported that Custer telegraphed
to the committee's chairman, that an investigation
into the post-traderships upon the Upper Missouri
would reveal a state of things quite as bad as at
Fort Sill ; and that in consequence of this communi-
cation he was summoned before the committee.
But whatever the causes of Gen. Grant's unfriend-
liness, or the cruelty charged upon hira for showing
his displeasure as he did, the result of Gen. Custer's
appeal was creditable to the President. Custer re-
sumed his position as Terry's trusted coadjutor in
fitting out the expedition, and finally marched from
Fort Lincoln as commander of his regiment. It was
no disgrace to him that Terry accompanied the col-
umn, and the best feeling always existed between the
two officers. The junction with the Montana troops
was contemplated at the time, and their commander,
Col. Gibbon, would have ranked Lieut. Col. Custer
when their forces united. Some commanding general
had usually accompanied previous expeditions into
the Indian country, and it seems probable that Gen.
Terry would have participated in the campaign under
r
A SUBJECT OF CONTROVERSY.
131
any circumstances. Besides, it does not appear from
Custer's despatch to Sheridan, that he had been prom-
ised more than the command of his regiment.
The history of the campaign, and the story of the
disastrous battle in which Gen. Custer lost his life
have been given in. preceding chapters. His action
in attacking the Indians before the aiTival of Gibbon's
troops has been the subject of controversy, and by
some few even his motives have been impugned. The
following paragraphs relative thereto are fi-om the
editorial columns of the Army and Navy J(mrnal: —
" It was Dot in Terry's instructions, and it clearly was not in
bis mind, that Custer, if he came " in contact with the enemy,"
should defer fighting him until the infantry came up. • * ♦
There could be no justification whatever for any plan of opera-
tions which made an attack dependent upon a junction between
Ciister and Gibbon, after threo or four days' march ixom different
points.
" It has been asserted that, smarting under the wounds which
preceding events had inflicted upon his pride, Custer dashed
recklessly into this affair for the purpose of eclipsing his superior
oiflcers in the same field, regardless of cost or consequences.
This, it seems to us, is going much too far. Custer was doubtless
glad of the opportunity to fight the battle alone, and was stimu-
lated by the anticipation of a victory which, illuminating his
already brilliant career, would make him outshine those put on
duty over him in this campaign. But his management of the
affair was probably just about what it would have been under
the same circumstances, if he had had no grievance. His great
mistake was in acting m mingled ignorance of, and contempt
for his enemy. He regarded attack and victory in this instance
as synonymous terms, the only point being to prevent the escape
of the foe. Under this fatal delusion he opened the engagement,
with his command divided into four parts, with no certainty of
co-operation or support between any two of them. Neither
ambition, nor wounded vanity, prompted these vicious and fatal
dispositions, nor were they due to lack of knowledge of the prin-
oiples of his profession."
'f
! I ii
Jrt-i '
CHAPTER XIX.
a biographical sketch ok major-general ouster.
(concluded.)
As the foregoing biography of Gen. Custer has been
confined chiefly to his railitaty career, it may be well
in conclusion to give some account of his personal
characteristics ; and this can be best done in the lan-
guage of those who knew him well. A gentleman
who accompanied Gen. Custer on the Yellowstone
and Black Hills expeditions, contributed to the New
York Trihwm the following : —
" Gen. Custei '^xi ?. born cavalryman. Ho was never more in
his element then v.liJU mounted on Dandy, his favorite horse,
and riding at the iie.vd of his regiment. He once said to me,
* I would rather be * private in the cavalry than a line officer in
the infantry.' He was the personification of bravery and dash.
If he had only added discretion to his valor he would have been
a perfect soldier. His impetuosity very often ran away with his
judgment. He was impatient of control. He liked to act inde-
pendently of others, and take all the risk and all the glory to him-
self. He frequently got himself into trouble by assuming more
authority than really belonged to his rank. It was on the
Yellowstone expedition where ho came into collision with Gen.
Stanlo}', his superior q^cer, and vas placed under arrest and
compelled tojrido at the rear of his column for two or three days,
until Gen. Rosscr, who fought against Custer in the Shenandoah
Valley during the war but was ther. acting as engineer of the
Northern Pacific Railroad, succeeded in efiTectlng a reconciliation.
Custer and Stanley afterward %oi on very well, and perhaps the
SB
PERSONAL CnARACTERISTICS.
133
quarrel would never have occurred if the two generals had been
left alone to themselves without the intervention of camp gossips,
who sought to foster the traditional jealousy between infantr}- and
cavalry. For Stanley was the soul of generosity, and Custer
did not .eally mean to bo arrogant ; bnt from the time when ho
entered West PoiuL to the day when ho fell on the Big Horn, he
was accustomed to take just as much liberty as he was entitled
to.
" For this reason, Custer worked most easily' and effectively
•when under general orders, when not hampered by special in-
structions, or his success made dependent on anybody else.
Gen. Terry understood his man when, in the order directing him
to march up the Rosebud, he very liberally said : ' The Depart-
ment Commander places too much confidence in your zeal, energ}-,
and ability to wish to impose upon j'ou precise orders which
might hamper j-our action when nearly in contact with the
enemy.' But Gen. Terry did not understand Custer if he
thought he would wait for Gibbon's support before attacking an
Indian camp. Undoubtedly he ought to have done this ; but
with his native impetuosity, his reckless daring, his confidence
in his own regiment, which had never failed him, and his love
of public approval, Custer could no more help charging this
Indian camp, than he could help charging just so man}' buffi^loes.
He had never learned to spell the word ' defeat ; ' he knew nothing
but success, and if he had met the Indians on the open plains,
«uccess would undoubtedly have been his ; for no body of Indians
could stand the charge of the 7th Cavalry when it swept over the
Plains like a whirlwind. But in the Mauv,-.ises Terres and the
narrow valley of the Big Horn he did it at a fearful risk.
" With all his bravery and self-reliance, his love of indepen-
dent action, Custer was more dependent than most men on the
kind approval of his fellows. He was even vain ; he loved dis-
play in dress and in action. He would pay 040 for a pair of
troop boots to wear on parade, and have everything else in
keeping. On the Yellowstone expedition he wore a bright red
shirt, which made him the best mark for a rifle of any man in the
regiment. I remonstrated with him for this reckless exposure,
but found an appeal to his wife more effectual, and on the next
campaign he wore a buckskin suit. He formerly wore his hair
▼ery long, letting it fall in a heavy mass upon his shoulders, but
36
it ' ; i^'
134
LIFE OF GENERAL CUSTER.
as I i
cut it off before going out on the Black Hills, producing quite a
change in his appearance. But if vain and ambitious, Custer
had none of those great vices which are so common and so dis-
tressing in the armj-. He never touched liquor in any form ; he
did not smoke, or chew, or gamble. He was a man of great en-
ergy and remark?Me endurance. He could outride almost any
man i. ' '■ regiment, I believe, if it were put to a test. When he
set out to reach a certain point at a certain time, you could be
sure t^at he would be there if he killed every horse in the com-
mand. He was sometimes too severe in forcing marches, but he
never seemed to get tired himself, and he never expected his men
to be so. In cutting our way through the forests of the Black
Hills, I have often seen him take an ax and work as hard as any
of the pioneers. He was never idle whcii he had a pretext for*
doing anything. Whatever he did he did thoroughly. He would
overshoot the mark, but never fall short. He fretted in garrison
sometimes, because it was too inactive ; but he found an outlet
here for his energies in writing articles for the press.
" He had a remarkable memory. He could recall in its proper
order every detail of any action, no matter how remote, of which
he was a participant. He was rather verbose in writing, and had
uo gifts as a speaker ; but his writings interested the masses ft-om
their close attention to details, and from his facility with the pen
as with the sword lu bringing a thing to a climax. As he was
apt to overdo in action, so he has apt to exaggerate in state-
ment, not from any wilful disregard of the truth, but because he
saw things bigger than they really were. He did not distort the
truth ; he magnified it. He was a natural optimist. He took
rose-colored views of everything, even of the miserable lands of
the Northern Pacific Bailroad. Hs had a historical memory, but
not a historical mind. He was no philosopher ; he could reel off
facts from his mind better than he <; >uld analyze oi mass them.
He was not a 3tudent,aor a deep thinker. He loved to take part
in events rather than to brood over them. He was fond of fun,
genial and pleasant in his manner ; a loving and devoted husband.
It was my privilege to spond two weeks in his family at one
time, and I know how happy he was in his social relations."
Tha following rambling remarks are accredited to
a general, whose name is not given : -
" The truth about Custer is, that he w&s a pet soldier, who had
110
PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS.
1S5
ng quite a
us, Custer
id so dis-
form ; he
great en-
Iraost any
When he
1 could be
1 the com-
les, but he
id his men
the Black
ard as any
iretext for'
Ho would
n garriscn
[ an outlet
1 its proper
3, of which
g, and had
asses fVom
th the pen
As he was
;e in state-
Decause he
listort the
He took
0 lands of
gmory, but
lid reel off
lass them.
) take part
nd of fuii,
1 husband,
ly at one
ions."
diteC to
r, who had
f»
I,
risen not above his merit, but higher than men of equal merit.
He fought with Phil Sheridan, and tdrough the patronage of
Sheridan he rose ; but while Sheridan liked his valor and dash he
never trusted his judgment. He was to Sheridan what Miirat
was CO Napoleon. While Sheridan is always cool, Custer was
always aflame. Rising to high command early in life, he lost the
repose neccosary to success in high command. ' •* Then
Custer must rush into politics, and went swinging around the
circle with Johnson. He wanted to be a statesman, and but for
Sheridan's influence with iirrant, the republicans would have
thrown him ; but you see we all liked Custer, and did not mind
his little freaks in that ,.ay any more than we wouid have mind-
ed temper in a woman. Sheridan, to keep Custer in his place,
kept him out on the Plains at work. He gave him a fine com-
mand—one of the best cavalry regiments in the service. The
colonel, Sturgis, was allowed to bask in the sunshine in a large
city, while Custer was the real commander.- Jn thifi service
Custer did well, and vindicated the partiality of Sheridan as well
as the kind feelings of his friends. * * ♦ The old spirit which
sent Custer swinginr^ ai'ound the ciMe re^ i-^ed ii} him. He came
East and took a prominent part in reforming tlie army. . This
made feeling, and drew upon Custer the anger of the inside forces
of the administration.
" Then he must write his war memoirs. Well, in these me-
moirs he began to write recklessly about the army. He took to
praising HcClellan as the greatest man of the war, and, coming
as it did when the democrats began to look lively, it annoyed the
administration. Grant grew so much annoj'^ed that even Sheridan
corM do no good, and Custer was disgraced. Technically it was
not a disgrace. All that Grant did was to put Terry, a general,
over Custer, a lieutenant-colonel, who had his regiment all the
same ; but all things considered, it was a disgrace."
Tlie following is from an article by Gen. A. B.
Nettleton, published in the Philadelphia Times : —
" It must be remembered that in fighting with cavalry, which
was Custer's forte, instantaneous quickness of e^'<i — that is,
the lightning-like formation and execution of successive correct
judgments on a rapidly-shifting situation — is the first thing, and
the second is the power of inspiring the troopers with that im-
petuous yet intelligent ardor with which a mounted brigade
1
136
LIFE OF C ^NERAL CUSTER.
1
1
Jifj
11:
') . '
III! ■
becomes a thunderbolt, and without which it remains a useless
mass of horses and riders. These qualities Gen. Custer seemed
to me to manifest, throughout the hard fighting of the last year
of the war, to a degrt i that was simply astounding, and in a
manner that marked him as one of the few really great cavalry
commanders developed by the wars of the present c mfnrj'. Of
fear, in the senst^ of dread of death or of bodily h-^rrri; - .as ab-
solutely destituto, yet his love of life and family ^ i was
keen and constant, leaving no room in his nature foi' de? pert tion,
recklessness, or conscious rashness. lu handling his d vision
under Sheridan's general oversight, he seemed to act 'ilways on
the belief that in campaigning with cavalry, when a certtia work
must be done, audacity is the truest caution. In action, when
all was going well and success was on\y a question of time or of
steady ' pounding,' Gen. Custer did not unnecessarilj' expose
himself, but until the tide of battle had been turned in the right
direction, and especially when disaster threatened, the foremost
point in our division's line was almost invariably marked bj' the
presence of Custer, his waving division tri-color and his plucky
staff.
'' L major-general of wide and splendid fame at twenty-five
and now slain at thirty-six, the gallant Custer had already Hv it.;
long if life be measured by illustrious deeds."
The following is from a skc^'h of Gen. Custer
published in the Ai-my and Navy Journal: —
" Custer was passionately addicted to active and exciting sports
as the turf and hunting. He was a splendid horseman and a
lover of the horse ; he attended many American race-meetings
and "an his own horses several times in the West. His grey-
hounds and staghounds wer* with him at the . • ^ of his regi-
ment, to be let slip at antelope or buffalo. »» ,^^ r;fle or > . -
gun he was equally expert, and had kijied his grizzly bear i ' r
most approved fashion, * • * Bold to rashness ; feverish -_^^
camp, but cool in action ; with the perbonul vanity of a carpet
knight, and the endurance and in3"ns'bilit.y to fatigue of the
hardiest and boldest rough .ider a prim-.e o.' tcouts ; a cihief of
guides, threading a trackless prai/ie with uw; r. ' ig eye of a native
and the precision of the needle to the ptar ; by no means a mar-
tinet, his men were led by the golden chain of love, admiration
and confidence. He had the proverbial assurance of a hussar,
•■:«■•
f1
t ,'
PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS.
137
1 a Useless
ter seemed
le last year
, and in a
;at cavalry
ntiiry. Of
■:? -.-as ab-
' ^ was
ef pert tion,
is d vision
nlways on
Tt.iiii work
ition, when
time or of
ily expose
a the right
le foremost
ked by the
his plucky
wenty-flve
•eady iiv*!
K ■■ ■
*
1. Custer
h
ting sports
uan and a
e-meetings
His grey-
' his regi-
ae or ^ . '-
)ear ; '''■:.
Bverisli
f a carpet
;ue of the
a (!hief of
)f a native
ins a mar-
.dmlration .
a hussar,
B 1
but his personal appearance varied with occasion. During the
wrr he was 'Custer of the golden locks, his broad sombrero
turned up from his hard-bronzed face, the ends of his crimson
cravat floating over his shoulder, gold galore spangling his
jacket sleeves, a pistol in his boot, jangling spurs on his heels,
and a ponderous claymore swinging at his side.' And long after,
when he roamed a great Indian fighter on the Plains, the portrait
was only slightly changed. The cavalry jacket was exchanged
for the full sui*; of buckskin, beautifully embroidered by Indian
maidens ; ar^oss his saddle rested a modern sporting rifle, and
at his horse's feet demurely walked hounds of unmixed breed.
Again, within a few months, he appears in private society as an
honored guest ; scrupulously avoiding anything like display, but
in a quiet conventional suit of blue, with the • golden locks '
closely shorn, and the bronzed face pale f'om recent indisposi-.
tion, be moves almost unnoticed iu the th' ong."
The faithful correspondent who perished with Gen. ,
Custer on the Little Big Horn portrayed him thus : —
" A man of strong impulses, of great hearted fHendships
and bitter enmities ; of quick, nervous temperament, undaunted
courage, will, and determination ; a man possessing electric
mental capacity, and of iron frame and constitution ; a brave,
faithful, gallant Soldier, who has warm friends and bitter enemies ;
the hardest rider, the greatest pusher ; with the most untiring
vigilance overcoming seeming impossibilities, and with an
ambition to succeed in all things he undertakes •; a man to do
right, as he construes /ight, in ev.ry case ; one respected and
beloved by his followert who would freely follow him into the
♦jaws of hell.'"
Gen. Custei'ft last battle "will stand in history as
one of the most heroic engagements ever fought, and
his name will be respected so long as chivalry is ap-
plauded and civilization battles against barbarism."
CHAPTER XX.
THE SIOUX TREATY OF 1376 — INDIAIT 0RAT0E8.
In 1875, the Black Hills country had acquired a
white population and an importance which rendered
its possession and control hy the Government desir-
able and necessary ; and an attempt was made to treat
with the Indians for its purchase, but without success.
In 1876, Congress expressed its determination to
appropriate noth'ng more for the subsistence of the
bioux Indians unless they made certain concessions,
including the surrender of the Black Hills, and en-
tered into some agreement calculated to enal)le them
to become self-supporting. Geo. W. Manypenny, H.
C. Bullis, Newton Edmunds, Rt. Rev. H. B. Whipple,
A. G. Boone, A. S. Gaylord, J. W. Daniels, and Gen.
H. H. Sibley, were appointed commissioners to nego-
tiate for the concessions demanded. The following
is an extract from their instructions under which they
acted : —
" The President is strongly impressed with the belief that the
agreement whicih shall be best calculated to enable the IndianR
to become self-supporting is one which shall provide for their re-
moval, at as early a day as possible, to the Indian Territory.
For the past three years they have been kept from starvation by
large appropriations for their subsistence. These appropriations
have been a matter not of obligation but of charity, and the
Indians should be made to understand distinctly that they can
hope for continued appropriations only by ftiU submission to the
COUNCILS WITH THE SIOUX.
189
!
authority and wishes of the Government, and upon ftiU evidence
of their disposition to undertake, in earnest, measures for their
own advancement and support."
The first council was held Sept. 7th, at Red Cloud
agency, with chiefs and headmen representing 4,901
Indians then at the agency. Red Cloud arid other
chiefs met the commissioners with warm welcomes,
and said with deep earnestness : — " We are glad to
see you ; you have come to save us from death." The
<»ndition8 required by Congress were then submitted
to the Indians, with the assurance that the commis-
sioners had no authority to change them in any par-
ticular ; but that they were authorized to devise a
plan to save their people from death and lead them
to civilization. The plan decided on was then care-
fully explained and inteipreted, and a copy of the
agreement given to the Indians to take to their own
council. Other councils were held Sept. 19th and
20th, and alter mutual explanations the agreement
was signed.
Subsequently, the commissioners visited Spotted
Tail agency, Standing Rock agency, Cheyenne River
agency, Crow Creek agency, Lower Brule agency,
and San tee agency. At all of these agencies the
agreement was made plain to the Indians, and after
due deliberation and considerable discussion, duly
signed. The following are extracts from the report
of the commissioners : —
" While the Indians received us as fiiends, and listened with
kind attention to our propositions, we were painfUUy impressed
with their lack of confidence in the pledges of the Government.
At times they told their story of wrongs witli such impassioned
earnestness that our cheeks crimsoned with shame. In their
^eecbes, the recital of the wrongs which their people had suhV. od
at the hands of the whites, the an-aignment of the Government
m
S'
140
REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONERS.
for gross acts of injustice and fraud, the description of treaties
made only to be broken, the doubts and distrusts of present pro-
fessions of friendship and good-will, were portrayed in colors so
vivid and language so terse, that admiration and surprise would
have kept us silent had not shame and humiliation done so.
Said a chief to a member of our commission : — ' I am glad to
see 3"ou, you are our friends, but I hear th.it j'ou have com». ta
move us. Tell your people that since the Great Father promised
that we should never be removed we have been moved five times."
He added, with bitter irony, ' I think you had better put the
Indians on wheels so you can run them about wherever you wish.'
"The present condition of the Sioux Indians is such as to
awaken the deepest sympathy. They were our fi'iends. If many
of this powerful tribe have been changed to relentless foes, we
must not forget that it i^ the simple outcome of our own Indian
training-school. Generals Sherman, Harney, Terry, and others,
use these words : —
" ' The moment the war of the rebellion was over, thousands of
our i.v;ople turned their attention toward the treasures of Montana.
The Indian was forgotten. It did not occur to any man that,
this poor, despised red man was the original discoverer, and sole
occupant for many centuries, of every mountain seamed with
quartz and every stream whose j-ellow sand glittered in the
noonday sun. He asked to retain only a secluded spot where
the buffalo and elk could live, and that spot he would make his
ho^\^. The truth is, no place was left for him. If the lands of
the white men are taken, civilization justifies him in resisting the
invader. Civilization does more than this — it brands him as a
coward and a slave if he submits to tlte wrong. If the savage
resists, civilization, with the Ten Commandments in one hand
and the sword in the other, demands his immediate extermination.
That he goes to war is not astonishing. He is often compelled
to do so. Wrongs are borne by him in silence that never fail to
drive civilized men to deeds of violence. * • * But it is said
that our wars with them have been almost constant. Have we
been uniformly unjust? We answer unhesitatingly, '3'es.*"
"General Stanley in 1870 writes from Dakota,, t!iat he is
♦ ashamed to appear any longei* in the presence of the chiefs of
the difTeieiil tribes of the Sioux, who inquire why we do not do
as we promised, and in their vigorous language aver that we have
i
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ROAMING INDIANS.
141
lied.' Sitting Bull, who had refused to come under treaty rela-
tions with the Government, based his refusal in tliese words, sent
to the commission of which Assistant Secretary Cowen was chair-
man : ' Whenever you have found a white man who will tell the
truth, you may return, and I shall be glad to see you.' "
" It has been claimed that all Indians found outside of their
reservation shall be regarded as hostile. Gren. Sheridan, June
29tb, 1869, says in an official order, that all Indians outside the-
well-defined limits of the reservation are under tue original and
exclusive juri diction of the military authority, and aa a rule will
be considered hostile. This order is the more surprising to ua .
when we remember that tlie treaty made by General Sherman
and others expressly provided that these Indians might hunt,
upon the unceded territory ; and we find that so late as its last
session Congress appropriated $200,000 to be used in part for the
payment of the seventh of thirty installments '■for Indians roam-
ing.' We repeat that, under this treaty, it is expressly provided
that the Indians may hunt in the unceded territory north and
west of the Sioux reservation, and until last year they had the
right to hunt in Western Nebraska. We believe tliat our failure
to recognize this right has led to many conflicts between the citi-
zens and army of the United States and the Indians."
" In 1874, the late lamented Gen. Custer made an expedition
to the Black Hills. It was done against the protest of the,
tndians and their friends, and in plain, direct violation of the-
treaty. Gold was discovered, white men flocked to the El Dorado.
Notwithstanding the gross violation of the treaty, no open war ,
ensued. If our own people had a sad story of wrongs suffered
itom the Indians, we must not forget that the Indians, who ow»
ao telegraph-lines, who have no press and no reporters, claimed.
ih&t they, too, had been the victims of lawless violence, and had
ii u>»ntry of untold value wrested from them by force.
" The charge is made that the agency Indians are hostile, and
that they have furnished ammunition and supplies to the Indianai.
with Sitting Bull. There is water-navigation for 3,000 miles,
through this territory, and an unguardedborderof several hundred ^
miles along the Canadian frontier. So long as the Indians, wilt
sell buffalo-robes at a low price and pay two prices for guns, the.
greed o/ whits men will furnish them. It is gross injustice
to the >g«toto »»:a the Interior Department to accuse them of
I
142
RESULTS OF THE WAR.
w^
m 4 '
i\irQi3hing arms and ammunition for Indians to flglit om* army
and murder our citizens.
" Of the results of this year's war we have no wish to speak.
It is a heart-rending reoord of the slaughter of many of the
bravest of our arm}-. It has not only carried desolation and
woe to hundreds of our own hearthstones, but has added to the
cup of anguish which we have pressed to the lips of the Indian.
We fear that when others shall examine it in the light of history,
they will repeat the words of the officers who penned the report
of 1868 : — ' The results of the year's campaign satisfied all reason-
Able men that the war was useless and expensive."
" We hardly know how to frame in words the feelings of shame
and sorrow which fill our hearts as were call the long record of the
broken faith of our Government. It is made more sad, in that
the rejoicings of our centennial year are mingled with the wail
of sorrow of widows and orphans made by a needless Indian
war, and that our Government has expended more monej' in this
war than all the religious bodies of our country have spent in
Indian missions since our existence as a nation.
" After long and careful examination we have no hesitation in
recommending that it is wise to continue the humane policy inau-
■gurated by President Grant. The great obstacle to its complete
success is that no change has been made in the laws for the care
of Indians. The Indian is left without the protection of law in
person, or property, or life. He has no personal rights. He has
no redress for wrongs inflicted b}- lawless violence. He may see
his crops destroyed, his wife or child killed. His onlj' redress is
personal revenge. * * * in the Indian's wild state he has a rude
government of chiefs and headmen, which is advisory in its char-
acter. When located upon reservations under the charge of a
United States agent, this government is destroyed, and we give
him nothing in its place.
" We are aware that many of our people think that the only
solution of the Indian problem is in their exterminatio We
would remind such persons that there is only One who can ex-
terminate. There are too many graves within our borders over
•which the grass has hardly grown, for us to forget that God is
just. The Indian is a savage, but he is also a man. He is one
of the few savage men who clearly recognize the existence of a
Great Spirit. Hebelievesin the immortality of the soul. He has
SURRENDER OF THE BLACK HILLS.
143
a passionate love for his children. He loves his country. He
will gladly die for his tribe. Unless we deny all revealed religion,
we must admit that he has the right to share in all the beneflts
of divine revelation. He is capable of civilization. Amid all
the obstacles, the wrongs, and evils of our Indian policy, there
are no missions which show richer rewards. Thousands of this
poor race, who were once as poor and degraded as tlie wild Sioux,
are to-day civili?i;ed men, living by the cultivation of tlie soil, and
sharing with uo in those blessings which give to men home,
country, and freedom. There is no reason why these men may
not also be led out of darkness to light.
The following is a synopsis of the arrangement
agreed on by the commissioners and Indians : —
Ihe Sioux surrender all claim to so much of their reservation
as lies west of the 103d meridan of longitude, and to so much
of it as lies between the North and South Forks of the Che^-enne
River eabt of said meridian; also, all claim to any country lying
outside of their reservation. Cannon Ball River and its south
branch are to be the northern boundary of tlie reservation. Three
wagon or other roads may be maintained across the reservation
from the Missouri River to the Black Hills. All subsistence
and supplies which may be hereafter provided, are to be delivered
on or near the Missouri River. A delegation of chiefs and lead-"
ing men from each band shall visit the Indian Territory, with a
view to selecting therein a pennanent home for the Indians. If
such delegation shall make a selection satisfactory to the Indians
they represent and to the United States, then the Indians are to
remove to the selected country within one year, select allotments
as soon as possible afterwards, and use their best efforts to culti-
vate the same. They are in all things to submit themselves to
such beneficent plans as the Government may provide for them
in the selection of a permanent home where they may live like
white men.
The United States agree to furnish subsistence to the Sioux
until such time as they shall ^ome self-supporting— rations to
be issued to heads of families ; and in case the Indians are located
on lands suitable for cultivation, .nd educational facilities are
afforded by the Government, the issue of rations is to be condi-
tioned on the p'erformance of labor by the Indians and the atten-
dance of their children at school. Assistance in the way of
144
EXCURSION TO THE INDIAN TERRITORY.
J. .i
schools and instruction in the agricultural and mechanical arts^
as provided by the treaty of 1868, is guaranteed ; and the build-
ing of comfortable houses on allotments in severalty is provided
for. The Sioux are declared amenable to the laws of the United
States ; and Congress shall secure to them an orderly goveruo
ment and protect individual property, person, and life. The
agreement not to be binding on either party till approved by
Congress and the President.
With the exception of the Santees, the Indians on
the Missouri River objected to visiting the Indian
Territory, and were exempted from that part of the
agreement by a supplementary clause. A delegation
of 90 Indians from the Red Cloud and Spotted Tail
agencies visited the Indian Territory in October as
provided in the agreement. The following is from
the report of Corami88ionei*s Boone and Daniels who
accompanied the delegation : —
"While travelling through the Territory, Spotted Tail took.,
special pains to inform us that he was not pleased with anything
that came within his observation, and his part of the delegation^
■with but few exceptions, were not disposed to express themselves. ,
in any other way. Many of the Red Cloud party were well
pleased. Their chief said *■ his Great Father asked him to go .
and find a place where his children could live by cultivating the
land. This was the country, and he should go back and tell his .
people so.' The manual-labor school of 120 scholars at the Chey-
enne and Arap^ihoe agency, was of more interest to them and ,.
gave them more pleasure than anything else seen on the journey.
They manifested much interest in the progress of civilizatioa-
among the Sac and Fox, and when passing the Creek country,
the delegation was received by these tribes with generous hospi-,.
tality and a hearty welcome. When we were at Okmulgee, the
capital of the Creek Nation, they were invited to tlie council-
bouse by the Creek chief, where he made a very friendly speech !
to them. The following is a copy tliareof : —
"To the Sioux, my brethren: — I am well pleased to see you.,
here in the Mus-koke Nation, brethren of the same race as, our- .
selves. I was told a loog time ago of my red bretbrea, tb^i,
WELCOMED BY THE CREEK CHIEF.
145
Sioux, that were living in the far Northwest. I had heard of the
name of your tribe and of many of your leading chiefs. I have
heard of your great men, great in war, and great in council. I
have heard of your trouble on account of the intrusion of the
white men on your reservation in search of gold. I have heard
that the United States Government had determined to remove
you from your present home, and, perhaps it might be, to this
Indian Territory, to the west of us. When I heard that j'ou
might possibly come to this Territory, which has been ' set apart
for the homo of the Indiana forever,' I was glad. I would like to
have all our red brethren settled in this Territory, as we have
provided in our treaty. We, the Creeks and Cherokees, have the
same kind of title and patent for our lands fVom the United
States, which guarantees this Territory to us for a home, under
our own form of government, by people of our own race, as long
as ' grass grows and water runs.' And I think, therefore, we
shall live forever on our lands. I should like — and I express the
wish of our people— that every Indian tribe should come here and*
settle on these lands, that this Territory may become filled up
with Indians, to the exclusion of others who may be inimical to
our race and interests. We believe our right to our soil and our
government, which is best suited to our peculiar necessities, would
be safer if all our race were united together here. This is my
earnest wish. Then I think the rising generation could be edu-
cated and civilized, attd, what is still better, christianized, which,
I believe, would be the greatest benefit of a?i. This would be to
our mutual benefit and good. I know T p ess the minds of
our people when I give you this welcome to our life of a higher
civilization, which is better than the old life so long led by our
race in the past.'
At the councils held at the different agencies, the
chiefs and principal men made numerous speeches,
which conveyed a good idea of Indian views and
feelings, and were often able and eloquent. The
balance of this chapter will be filled up with extracts
from some of these speeches.
.Bed Cloud Agency. Fast Beab :— My good friends, you have
come here to ask me for something, and I have come here to^Jay
to answer. You ask me to give up the mountains that are to the
•It; I
id
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146
INDIAN ORATORS
north of us, and I answer yes to that question. I give them up.
You are here also to ask me to take a Journey to look at a country,
and I also answer yes to that question. I consent for ray young
men to go down there and sec that country ; but they must look
at it in silence, and come back in silence. When they have seen
the country I will consider it. If it is good I will consider it so ;
if bad I will consider that it is bad. Do you understand, my
fWends, what I last said to you ? "We do not agree to go there
to live before we have seen the countrj'.
Young-Man-Afraid-of-Hi8-Hok8e : — My father shook hands
with the Dakotas peacefully on the Platte River. I have been
brought up here from a boy until I got to be a chir Tho
soldiers have no business in this country* at all. I wiu >11
you plainly that I have been very much ashamed ever since the
soldiers came here. This is my country, and I have remained
here with my women and children eating such things as the
Great Father has sent us. I am going to ask the Great Father
for a great many things, things that will make me rich. I am
going to ask for so much that I am afraid the Great Father will
not consent to give it to me. I want you to tell the Great Father
that I, and all the men like me, and the children, are going to
ask him for a great many things, and we expect to have food,
and blankets to wear as long as we live.
Black Coal : — This place here is a place of peace, where we
and our people have lived together happily, and behaved our-
selves, and we do not understand why so many soldiers have
come here among us. We have never had any trouble and have
behaved ourselves, and wish to have the soldiers sent away as
soon as possible, .ind leave us in peace. The people tb(>.t live
here have both minds and hearts and good sense, but it seems
as if the Great Father all at once thought differently, and speaks
of us as people that are very bad.
Red Cloud : — The commissioners have both brains and hearts.
The Great Father has sent you here to visit me and my people,
and I want that you should help us. We see a great many
soldiers here in our country. We do not like to see them here.
I want you to have pity upon us, and have them all taken away.
I understand all the ways of the whites. I know that everything
that has been said has been written down, and I should like to
have a fair copy of that made and given to me.
I
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SPOTTfiD TAIL'S SPEECH.
147
Little Wound:— I always considered that when the Great
Father bon-owed the country for the overland road that he mad©
an arrangement with us that was to last fifty years as payment
for that privilege, and yesterday another arrangement was men-
tioned concerning the Black Hills, and the words that I heard
ft-om the Great Father and from the commissioners from the
Great Council made me cry. The country upon which I am
standing is the country upon which I was born, and upon which
I heard that it was the wish of tlie Great Father and of the Great
Council that I should be lik a man without a country. I shed
tears. I wish that the chief men among you that have come here
to see me would help me, and would change those things that do
not suit me.
Spotted Tail Agency. Spotted Tail :— My ftiends that have
come here to se* me ; you have brought to us words from the
Great Father at Washington, and I have considered them now
for seven days, and have made up my mind. This is the fifth
time that you have come. At the time of the first treaty that
was made on Horse Creek — the one we call the " great treaty "
— there was provision made to borrow the overland road of the
Indians, and promises made at the time of the treaty, though I
was a boy at the time ; they told me it was to last fifty years.
These promises have not been kept. All the words have proved
to be false. The next conference was the one held with Gen.
Man3'dear, when there were no promises made in particular, nor
for any amount to be given to us, but we had a conference with
him and made friends and shook hands. Then after that there
was a treaty made by Gen. Sherman. He told us we should have
annuities and goods from that treaty for thirty-five years. He
said this, but yet he didn't tell the truth. He told me the
country was mine, and that I should select any place I wished
for my reservation and live in it. My friends, I will show you
well his words to-day. * ♦ * I see that my friends before me
are men of age and dignity. I think that each of you have
selected somewhere a good piece of land for himself, with the
intention of living on it, that he may there raise up his children.
My people, that you see here before you, are not different ; they
also live upon the earth and upon the things that come to them
from above.
My friends, this seems to me to be a very hard day, and we
have come upon very diflScult times. This war did not spring up
I
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rk-
148
SPOTTED TAIL'S SPEECH.
\-Ui
tere in our land ; this war was brouglit upon us by the children
of the Great Father who came to ralte our land from us without
price, and who, in our land, do a great manj' evil things. We
have a store-house to h^^ld our p^'ovisions the Great Father sends
«s, but he sends verj^ little provisions to put in our store-house.
When our people b?come displeased with their provision.' and
have gone north to hunt in order that they might live, the Great
Father's children are fighting them. It has been our wish to
live in our country peaceably, but the Great Father has fillefl it
with soldiers who think only of our death, it seems to me thure
is a better way than this. When people come to trouble, it Is
better for both parties to come together without arms and talk it
over a.'.d find some peaceful way to settle it. My friend?, you
have come to me to-da}', anl mentio/ied two counlviss to me.
One of them I know of old — the Missouri River. It is not pos-
sible for me to go there.. When I was there before 've had a
{jreat deal of trouble. I hft aUo 100 of my people buried tliei^j.
The other country you have mention'^d iT one I have never seen
since I was born, but I agree to go and look at it. When men
have a difficult business to settle it is not po!s."ible it should be
well. settled in one day; it takes at least twelve month? to
consider it.
Spoited Tail : — (Second Council.) This war has corje from
robbery — from the stealing of our land. My friends, I wish to
tell the Great Father " Let us consider this matter." Tliere are
on both sides a great many widows and a great many orphans.
Let us consider who is to take care of these. This matter has
not been begun with judgment ; and I think it is displeasing to
the Gre-'t Spirit. The Great Father sent you out here to buy
our land and we have agreed together to that, but with one
understanding : — That it shall lio the end, also, o^' this war. We
have always been peaceful friends of the Great Father, and shall
remain at peace with him ; but ail at once a whirlwind lias passed
over our land, and the ammunition has been locked up so that we
cannot get it. to hunt garesc- to live up6n. Now we shake hands
and makepeace and wi?li it to be unlocked so we can buj- ammu-
nition. You knovir this trouble does not plcu&e the Great »Spirit,
and I want j-ou to help me to blot it or.t.
Baptiste Good : — You have come here with considerations that
will make my people live, and my hecrt i.s glad. When Gen.
Sherman came to make a treaty with my people, I was aido glad.
m
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8FEECH OF BLUE TEETH.
149
Tbat was like the birth of a child. I wish you would tell the
Great Father we need unplemehts *o work with, and wagons for
two iiorses. I have worn out my fingers working without imple
ments. I have planted corn, and I am happy to say it has grown
up aud produced fruit. The white minister has come here to
teach me, but I don't thiiik it is done properly. I would like to
have some female ministers come dressed in black to receive the
girls in one house and teach them, and have white male ministers
in black hat and coat to teach the boys in another house sepa-
rately.
Blue Teeth : — Just such men as you came to make the treaty
with rae. Thsy showed me a road to walk in, and I showed my
people and advised them according to their words, and they
were glad. But the tilings they promised me didn't turn out as
they promised them. I am the man that heard the promises
made. Spotted Tail told you about that yesterdar, according to
my direction, but I was hiding myself. I want the man pointed
oat that is going to talk to the Great Father. [Judge Gaylord is
pointed out.] You see that pipe : take it, [handing to Judge
Gaylord a pipe and tobacco-pouch.] The Great Spirit gave me
that pipe. He told me to point it to my mother, the earth, when
I prayed. I wish you to take it to the Great Father at Wash-
ington, and tell him a man that made a speech here presented it
to him, and ask him to be merciful to him and help him to live.
IbA him this is my country, and for him to jhave pity upon me
and not move me away from it. I want to live here always.
Standing Mock Agency. Johi otbass : — Look well at me with
both eyes and listen to me w': ;< both, ears. I have considered
the words you have brought ije, and I am ready to answer you.
Th(^ chiefs you see here have all come to the same conclusion.
You have brought words to the chiefs here that will bring life to
their children ; that will make their children live ; they answer
IwiV [signifying their approval] to that. And now since the\- have
ceded their country to you, they want to tell you of ceri things
that they shall want in the future.
Running Antelope : — When people shake hands and talk,
they talk in earnest. I want j'ou to look on this man K'll Eagle,
with bis people who are prisone/s here. He is one of us and is
our kindred. Kindred living with each other love each other,
and when they get into trouble they help each other out, and we
ft)ok on these Indiaos the same as white. He went out to the
87
150
A HUNGRY BEAR.
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hostile camp, held his gun, witnessed a fight, and came back.
I want before the sun sets to see tnese men released. I am an
old man, and I ask these things as a favor.
In regard to this store. I have been to see the Great Father,
and the white people are wealthy. Even they have stores one
right against the other, touching each other. When a man goes
in a store and finds something ua tvunts and cannot obtain it as
cheaply as he desires, he goes into another, and so on nntil he get^
what he wants and at the proper price. We want to do so here.
Two Bears : — Hail Great Spirit, and hail my friends who I
see hero, and hail Oreat Father I My heart is this day made
glad by seeing you here. You prayed to the Great Spirit and
that made our hearts glad. I was the chief owner of this country,
but the Great Father turned it over to his young men. This was
a hard thing for him to do to me ; now that he proposes to pay
me for it I am very glad. I am of the fifth ^feneration of the
Sioux Indians, and the sixth generation is growing up around
me. I want the Government to provide for the same number of
generations in the future. I am making this trade with the Great
Father, and I am not a white man and am. not able to live like a
white man. They eat but little, but I am not able to get along
with a Uttle yet. The Great Spirit fed me, and fed me in large
quantities. I eat all day, and eating great quantities has become
a habit with me. I am afraid of frightful things ; I am afraid
of bad things ; I am afraid of a battle. I like good things, and
straightforward dealings. For two winters I was starving and
have eaten a great number of my horses and dogs. In conse-
quence of this starvation many of our people fled from the agency
in search of food, and while they were out one of them got into
trouble, [referring to Kill Eagle.]
Mad Bear : — I am an Indian, a poor, miserable Indian, but if
I should do as has been done by us, the Great Spirit would dis-
like, and hate me, and for that reason I cannot do these things.
Men, civilians, that we have had for agents would steal our food,
steal things that were sent to us. It is the fault of the white
men that this is done. They select men that belong to the ring.
When one agent is removed they select his friend to succeed him,
and so the stealing goes on. The matter of their traders alone
is enough to drive the Indians hostile. It would drive a white
man hostile to be treated as we are treated, and to be charged
prices as our traders charge us for goods. K an Indian succeeds
A FOOLISH FOOL DOQ.
in getting a dollar he takes it +«» the store to trade, and what he
receives in return for it amounts to probably half a dime. We
want the monopoly of trading stores stopped. The work, the
labor, everything is monopolized by waite men, who hav^ every-
thing their own way. It is hard to be an Indian chief. Our
young men do not listen to us — they will not mind us.
Fool Dog : — The Great Spirit created these men and they ex-
pect to raise children after them. Generations are not to stop
here, they are still to go on living, and we look to you for help
and assistance. I am an Indian, and am looked on by the whites
as a foolish man ; but it must be because I follow the advice of
the white man.
Long Soldier ; — The Great Spirit called me forth to be a
chief, and this day I say how to you. The Great Father has
asked me for a portion of my country and has made me an offer
in return for it. I am very glad to get what ; i^i been nfi[ered to
Hie, and I therefore say o to your proposition. I am a very
suspicious man and alway > ' people of some evil designs
when they talk to me, and thcrelui reiriaiu at home. My l.i her,
who has instructed me to be a fVieml the whites, is i^till living,
and I want him to share in the benefits thu arise from le sale of
the Black Hills.
Two Bears : — My friends, to-day we have talked togethc ith
smiles on our faces, and we are going to sign this , iper with the
understanding that everything in it is true, and Uat we are not
deceiving each other. My children are very poor and very igno-
rant, and they don't, know anything about weights and n^-asures,
and if 3'ou are going to issue my rations by weiglil T ^ you to
give good measure. In signing this agreement i . t sign it
myself; I have a 3^oung man who is my hope for the fulr.re.
Although I touch the pen myself, I touch it for my son, who is to
be my successor.
Drag Wood :— I am an old man and my bones are getting
sore, and I want my son to sign this agreement vnth me.
Wolf Necklace :— I never want to leave this country ; all my
relatives are lying here in the ground, and when I fall to pieces I
am going to fall to pieces here.
Cheyenne Biver Agency. Lokg Mandan :~I am glad of one
thing ; the Great Father knows that this is my country, and
before he takes it from me he is goinsj to ask my permission.
Our people are poor, they have nothing in their lodges, and if
102
AN HON1.ST AGRICULTURIST.
H4
Ir
you will visit the.n you would feel disposed to bring many things
to tliem to-day. My friends, when I went to Washington 1 went
into your money-house, and I had some young men with me, but
none of them took any money out of that house while I was with,
them. At the same timt,, when your Great Father's people come
into my country, they go into ni}- money-house and take mouey
out. More than that, they commit depredations on us ; and stole
fltoy head of horses and took them away from me. If the Great
Father was not a great man and was not a man that bad great
power and a good man, I should have been mad ; bui: he is a
great man and a good man, and that is the reason that I have nov
been offended at him. I would much rather )iave gone to Wash-
ington with my people and have signed this treaty there. I do
not want to spend a great deal of money for the Great Father^
but at the same time I know that the Great Father is wealthy.
I want to tap the telegraph that is over the river, and talk to the
Great Father in that way, and to have him answer me in the same
way. I want him to give me plenty of mowing-machines, aiid I
would like very much to have a good blacksmith. I will show
you something to-day that I have done in this countrv in the way
of farming ; a large pumpkin that I have sent to be brought here
to show you. My friends, 3'ou may think that I never raised it
when you see it, but I want to show it to 3'ou, and have sent
for it.
Red Feather :— Tim Great Father asked me in regard io the
missions and churches and schools, and told me I must take hold
of that and assist hira. There were two ministers here, and I re-
garded them as two canes to w alk upon and help me up with.
There is one thing that the people of the Great Father have that
I do not want, and that is whisky. I do not want any whisky
on my reservation. Whenever a man drinks whisky he loses hi»
senses, and that is the reason why T object to H.
DuoK : — The soldiers that are fi«!;nting have killed a great many
people on both sides, and have m;i'le many widows and orphans
on both sides. I am sorry to know that anybody was kiilod on
either side. All the badness an' 1 all the trouble that has orcurrec {
here formerly, I sather it up in my hand and throw it awaj' ; tell
the Great Father that. Look at this people ; they are poor
people ; they have a hard time to get what little ftirs and hides
they have ; but when we take them to the stores we do not get
enough for them. If you are not afraid of me, and do not think
mBM
WHITE GHOST.
163
I am fooling with you, I would like to have you attend to this
hide business, and see that we get $6 apiece for them.
White Bull :— I see, my friends, the soldiers standing here
about me. They are people whose business it is to die, but we
think better things for tiiem. We have given them the Black
Hills ; we wish they would go there and dig gold without being
afraid of anybody.
Crow Creek Agency. White Ghost : — Around and about the
hills on the prairies there are a great many dead people lying,
but the Great Father has decided to give us a good price for the
hills ; therefore it is — because the Great Father is strong — that
we are willing to give them up. We live right near a trading-
post, and we become poor because we have not money to buy
those things we want. I do not wish you to think that I am find-
ing fault or out of temper. I merely say th( things I am in-
structed to say. My people wish to have it understood that they
do not wish to have any soldiers sent here or any soldier for an
agent. I must tell everything that I am instructed to say ; they
are all here listening to see whether I say everything, and I must
say all that I have been told. We would like to have Mr.
Premeau appointed for interpreter. He is a white man, a man
that understands the language, end does not drink whisky. My
people think that the flour that is sent here for thera is sent for
them to eat, and they are not pleased that it is fed to the piga
about the agency ; and they wish me to mention that we take a,
hide to the store, quite a large one, and receive an order for three
dollars' worth of goods. For this large beef-hide we get one
piece of leather the width of three fingei's, for a belt ; it is not
worth more than fifty cents. That does not please us.
Last summer when I went to the council for the Black Hills, I
had a pipe with me. I told them., in reference to the Black Hills,
that we were bound b}' giving and receiving the pipe, the same
as white people when they make an oath in court and swear upon
the Bible, and if the partj' took the pipe that was offered to him
in council and held it in his hand everj-thing; went well, and if ho
did not speak the truth always some evil would spring up in con-
nection with it. Last summer the pipe was given in council, and
what do } ou think of the matter now ? Have the promises been
kept, or has the violation of them caused war and bloodshed ? I
have for a long time known the ways of your people in dealing
with us and taking away our country, and I know that they hnvo
r
154
AN ORPHAN'S WOES.
been such as to make us miserable. You have driven away our
game and our means of livelihood out of the country, until now
we have nothing left that is valuable except the hills that you
ask us to give up. When we give these up to the Great Father
we know that we give up the last thing that is valuable either to
us or the white people ; and therefore my people wish me to say
that, as long as two Indians are living, we expect them to have
the benefit of the price paid for these lands.
My ft-iend, [to the chairman,] I am going to give yo'i a pipe.
Perhaps we are deceiving each other in this matter, perhaps we
are not going to be truthful, and shall commit a great sin, but I
for my part am trying to speak the truth.
Running Bear : — I look upon you as you sit before me, and I
see that there are no boys among you ; that you are all men of
age, and I am glad to see it. I am very old, very near tjie time
when I shall lie down in the earth. Therefore if you have really
come to help us we are very happy. 1 will speak now about my-
self. I am an orphan. Before my father died he told me that
my country was very valuable. You say you are going to give
me rations by weight ; I do not know anything about that ; I
think it will take me at least twelve years to understand it. It is
only yesterday that the people of my generation were laid in the
ground, and I am the only one left. My father, whb is now dead,
went to the Great Father's house and talked with him there.
The people have now given you the Black Hills, and we for our
part would like to go to our Great Father's hous » and hear how
much money he proposes to give us in return. Aga!'' t> j whisky
that the white people have and carry about with them is very
bad. We hear that our people who are living up to the north of
us drink a great deal of whisky. We do not like it at all.
My friends, I am going to ask you for something that I want.
I do not think it possible that you have come out here to ask
me for something without paying me for it. I do not consider
myself very rich. You white people come out here with a great
many pockets in your clothes. Probably the person who sent
you told you what to do with the things in your pockets. I
would like to have you take up a collection. Each of you put
your hands in your pockets and take out ten cents and give it to
me to buy something at the store. You are not particularly
modest in asking for the things you want, and I see no reason
1
IP
t
■*■* ?
THE STORY OF "NOBODY IN PARTICULAR."
155
n '
why I should not ask for the things that I want. Do you think
I do right in asking you ?
You are a chief, [to the chairman.] I, also, am a chief. I
have lived here now 13 years. I do not remember even a bad
word that [ have said ; perhaps the Great Father does. In every
country there are men who are skillful in talking in council. I
am such a man myself. I also have been instructed. This
medal that you see, was put about my neck by a Catholic priest,
and yet, notwithstanding I am so honored, you talk to me about
issuing rations by weight. I am astonished at yju. You are
advanced in years ; I am also advanced in years.
White Beab : — I wonder if you know that I planted a field out
here. I raised pumpkins as large as this chair and corn taller
than I am, and after I had done that my father took my field
away to plant oats in. I wonder if you know that. Tell the
Great Father that there is only one store here, and all the young
men are shedding tears about it. If they had mowing-machines,
8U( /hey could ride upon, to ride around their country and
cut .ay, they would be able to earn something ; but the agent
considers that the country belongs to him personally, and cuts
all the hay. My firiends, I would like to have our agent, before
the sun goes down, climb up into the second story of the ware-
house and take down all the teepee cloths and blankets that he
has there, and divide them s loug the people.
Doo Back : — I am not anybody in particular. Although I am
not very strong and a man of no special importance, I took a
claim, and planted, and considered that I was watching my own
hay and grass. I am the man that has been trying to live in the
way that I have been told, but this summer a great many white
men have come there and cut my wood, and killed the fowls and
animals I have raised, and disturbed me in many ways. I do not
wish to make any disturbance about it, but I have been trying .to
do as the Great Father advised us, and it seems to me that these
people who come and do such things to me are lawless people.
I have nobody to 'a».lp me, but you come here to-day fi'om the
Great Father, and I have told you these things in the hope that
you will help nu:\
Santee Agency. Hakewaste : — I am an Indian and was born
naked. I now wear the same kind of clothes as the white man.
Old Wabashaw told me that the President wanted us to work.
r
1
s\
18
*,:'A'
I
t!i!
, 1 V ■
III
156
A BLIND MAN'S LAMENT.
and for that reason I b&ve dressed in this way, but what you have
been explaining to me I know nothing about. I have only been
six years a chief in this land." You can see how we are situated
here ; that we have done part of what the President told us to do ;
you see little patches of corn, &c. As old man Wubushaw is
buried here we would all like to live here. We will all do what
you ask of us in the treaty. "We own nothing, and have nothing
to depend upon. When the President makes up his mind to do
a thing he generally does it, but we do not want to go to that
territory to the south.
Wamamsa : — The Lord above rules everything, and b^ has
given us a nice mild day for our council. We have prayed for
land and churches, and as we now have three churches I think
the Lord has taken good care of us and has answered our prayers.
Look at these young men. You have not seen an}' Indians
during your travels dressed in that way. We are not getting
along very well — not as well as we should. Twice now we have
had Quakers for agents, and we are going down hill all the time ;
getting into the ground.
HusASA : — I have been blind for four years, but I can hear
what is said. When any one comes from Washington to see us
we ought to be thankful to him. When we lived at Redwood we
made the treaty, and it was mentioned that we were to draw
annuities and money for fifty years, and for that reason we put
ourselves in the wrong place and suffer for it to-day. There are
only three chiefs left now, and all we have tc do is to throw our-
selves into the arms of the Great Father. We are all pre*^ty
badly off. When people used to come here from Washington,
Wabashaw was heni to Gpoul;. but now he is Ij'ing in the ground
and we are all the time looking that way at him. A great many
of us have no wagons or oxen or anything to work withv I have
nothing but an old wagon that is not fit for use, and am as poor
as if I had not sold any land to the President. The Indians'
minds are not very long and we forget a thing in a very short
time. You have told us what to do. We have got it all in our
ears and onght to be proud of it.
The President said that he would take good care of ns, and
now here I am blind and have not got a wagon fit to use.
Although I am blind, if I had a wagon the women or some of
the boys could bring me water when I am thirsty.
lat you have
e only been
are situated
Id us to do ;
"abashaw is
all do what
ave nothing
mind to do
go to that
ind b? has
prayed for
bes I think
)ur prayers,
nj- Indians
not getting
ow we have
11 the time ;
I can hear
>n to see us
led wood we
ire to draw
ison we put
There are
) throw our-
all pre*^ty
iTashington,
the ground
great many
th.. I have
am as poor
'he Indians'
very short
t all in our
of us, and
fit to use.
or some of