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CIHM/ICMH
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CIHIVI/iCIVIH
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V O Y A G E S
Made in the Years 1788 and 1789,
r I. o M
CHINA TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA
TO WHICH
r I X E D,
AN INTRODUCTORY NARRATIVE
o r
A VoTAOE performed in 1786, from BbngAl, in the Ship Nootka
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE
n
O F
J NORTH WEST PASSAGE',
AND tOMB ACCOUNT or
THE TRADE BETWEEN THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA AND CHINA;
AND THE LATTER COUNTRY AND GREAT BRITAIN.
By JOHN M E A R E S, Esq.
:• 1
LONDON:
PRINTED AT THE ClfVnvKt WlOU
AMD lOLD IT }. WALTIR, N* 169, FICCAOILLT, OrrOilTI OLD BOND tTllllT.'
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T O T H B
RIGHT HON"'-' LORD HAWKESBURY,
PRESIDENT OF THE BOARD OF TRADE, idc. iic.
WHOSE C O M M K R C I A L ERUDITION AND O F F I C f A L STATION,
RENDER HIM T II E B E S T JUDGE,
A M D> T II C R E F O R E,
THE MOST HONOURABLE PATRON,
«F ALL WORKS WHICH TF.ND TO PROMOTE THE INTERESTS, AND ENLARGE THE
BOUNDARIES, OF BRITISH COMMERCEi
THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED,
WITH THE GRFATEST RESPECT,
BY HIS LORDSHIP' % MOST OBLIGED,
I
AND FAITHFUL HUMBLE SERVANT,
ik
y O H N M E A R E S.
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E.
rp II E wiflies of friends, — the political circumftances of the
moment, — and, as I have been made to believe, the public
expedation, have induced me to add the following Voyages to
thofe which have already been publifhed, to improve the navi-
gation and extend the commerce of the Britifh Empire. — I do not
pretend to be the rival, — but rather confider myfelf an humble fol-
lower of thofe eminent navigators whofe reputation is become a
part of the national fame ; ;ind though I may be permitted, as it
were, to envy their fuperior ' ;";ots and advantages, I moft fin-
cerely add my feeble teftimor*^. to that merit, which has ranked
them among the illuibious names of my country.
Indeed I feel it a duty I owe myfelf, as well as to moderate the
fanguine expedation which may have arifen refpefting the hiftory
It 'I
I
'.*.*:
liMMii^
VI
B.
i)
of thofc Voyages In which I have been engaged, and may be faid
to have conduced, to ohl'erve, that they were Voyages of Com-
MERCK, and not of Discovery ; and that whatever novehy they
may poiTcfs, or original information they may beftow, arofc out of>
and form, as it were, an incidental part of a commercial under-
taking.
if
)
The veflcls committed to my command, were fitted out in the
ports of the Eaft, by the commercial zeal of Britilh fuhjefts in that
part of the globe. — It was my office, under their fpirited and confi-
dential encouragement, to explore new regions of Trade; — the interell
therefore of thofe patriotic merchants and gentlemen, who had en-
trulled a very confiderable property to my care and controul, and
the honour of gaining a fmall portion of that reputation which
is due to thofe who promote the extenfion of the Britifh commerce,^
were the fole incentives to my zeal, and alone fupported me under
the difficulties, and amidft the dangers 1 encountered in difcharging
my duty. When I was ftruggling with the ibrms of the Pacific
Ocean, — when I was locked up in ice, and fuffering the accumulated
wretchednefs of that fituation on the fliores of America, — or when I
was engaged in advancing the principal objc£k of the Voyage, —
and availing myfelf of any accidental opi^rtunity which occurred, of
exploring thofe dubious coalls, I little tiiought it would be my future
lot to give the hiftory of this part of my maritime life to the
world. — If I had looked forward to the poffibility of fuch an event,
I (hould
I
mn
(
B.
vn
I fhould have enlarged my oblervatlons, and been more minutely
attentive to a variety of objefts which were but curlbrily remarked ;
and qualified rayfelf, during every part of my Voyages, to have
given them all the interell they were capable of receiving, and
all the information ihcy were capable of producing. But without
endeavouring to deprecate criticifm by an affected humility, or
defying it by an unbecoming confidence, I lliall venture to exprefs
my hopes, — that this Volume will be found to contain information
ufeful to commerce, and inllru6tions which future navigators may
not difdain to confider ; that the following pages will afford fome
entertainment to men who are curious in examining the various
modes of human life ; and that there are many paffiges in them
which will heighten the feelings of thofe who " (it and think on
what a failor fuffers."
The Memoir on the China Trade, &c. mull fpeak for itfelf : —
The Obfervations I have ventured to make on the podibility of a
North Well Paffage, muil alfo be fubmitted to the candid confidera-
tion of invelVigating minds. — It is, however, proper to add, that in
fupporting my opinion on that fubjeft, I have had occafional recourfe
to the corroborating arguments of Mr. Dalrymple, in his admirable
pamphlet on the Fur Trade, &c.
t
That every poffible attention has been employed to render this
Work, in fome degree, worthy of the public favour, will, I trull, appear
I to
I III .— i.iii^ V*
Vlll
P R B P A C B.
to every candid reader of it. — For its inaccuracies, though, I truO,
they will not be found to be very numerous, I muft rell for excufe on
the very great hafle in which it was neceflarily prepared to meet
the public impatience ; — and I am difpofed to flatter myfelf that the
indulgence I afk will not be denied me.
Ntvtmiir 1 6, 1790*
JOHN MEARES.
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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES.
N
A NTRIM, Mod Noble Marquli of
^^ Arran, Right Hon. Earl of
Annaly, Right Hon. Lord
Anneflcy, Right Hon. Richard
Adams, Mr.
Aftcll, VVm. Thornton Efq. Clapham
Alexander, Robert Efq. Banker
Allen, John Efq.
Auft, G. Efq. Secretary of State's Office
Aflbclated Tinners in the County of Corn-
wail, 20 Copies
B
Buckingham, The Mod Noble Marq. of
Banks, Sir Jofeph, Bart. Prefident of the
Royal Society
Bruhl, His Excellency Count, Saxon
AmbaiTador
Baffet, Sir F. Bart. TebUy Park, Cornzvall
Bayntun, Sir Edward, Bart.
Beale, Daniel Efq. Ch'iHa
Bcllland, Mr. Great Marlborough -ftrtet
Brook, Mr. Birmingham
Bowatcr, Captain Hampton-court
Brook, George Efq.
Brown, Auguftus Efq,
Bride, Patrick Efq. Bank Dircftor, Ireland
Burfton, Bcrcsford Efq. King's Counfel
Brabazon, Capt. Lambert of the Navy
Barrett, Rev. John
Ball, John Efq. Dublm
Ball, George Efq. ditto
Bolton, Richard Efq. diltt
Binns, John Efq. ditto
Batten, — Efq. Penzance, Cornwall
Bolitho, Thomas Efq. Chyandour, ditto
Bofville, William Efq.
Bateman, Nathaniel Efq.
Berry, Kinijfmill Efq. Houilani-Jireit
Beatc, Thomas Efq.
Baldwin, Mr. Bookfeller, 25 Copies
Beckct, Mr. Bookfeller, 10 Copies
Bew, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
Boofe)', Mr. Bookfeller, 3 Copies
Byrn, Mr. James Bookfeller, Dublin, 6 C.
C
Charlemont, Right Hon. Earl of
Clonmell,Rr. Hon. Lord Vifc. Chief Juf-
tice Court of King's Bench, l eland
Carleton, Right Hon. Lord, Chief Juftice
of the Court of Common Picas, ditto
Cloncurry, Right Hon. Lord
Clanbraflil, Right Hon. Lord
Chetwynd, Hon. Mr. J.rmyn-Jiriet
Chalmers, George Efq. Chief Clerk of
the Board of Trade
Coombc, Hervcy Efq. Great Rufel-Jlreet
Collinfon, Michael Efq. Grofvenor Place
Cook,Thomas Summers Efq. Dnvning-Jl.
Cabell, William Efq. India Board
Clowes, William Efq. Warrington
Cox, Mr. Shoe-lane
Cox, J. Henry Efq. China
t M
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
N
[i
Carver, Mr. Birmingham
Clark, Mr. Upper Grofvenor -free t
Curtis, William Efq. Alderman & M.P.
Colville, William £fq. a Dire^or of the
Bank, Ireland
Crothwaite, Leland Efq. ditto, ditto
Chatterton, James Efq. King's Counfel
ConoUy, James Efq.
Campbell, George Efq.
Cunningham, Thomas Efq.
Coles, Richard Efq.
Cunnach, Mr. Penzance, Cornwall
Cotton, John KCq. Ijko Layton
Cunningham, Waddle Efq.
Chalmer, Wm. Efq. Chief of the Swedifli
Supra Cargoes at Cantom
Cadell, Mr. Bookfeller. 6 Copies
D
Donoughmore, Right Hon. Lord
Delvin, Right Hon. Lord
Donnithorne, Nicholas £fq. St. ^gnes^
Cornwall
Denny, Sir Barry, Bart.
Dering, Sir Edw. Bart.
Day, Rev. Archdeacon
Drummond, James Efq. China
Davifon, Alexander Efq. Harpt/r-fireel
Dunnage, John Efq. Pbilpot-lane
Piniel, R. A. Efq. ^'ruro, Cornwall
Dawfon, Mifs Sufanna Grofvenor-fquire
Dick, Samuel Efq. Diredor of the Bank,
Ireland
D'Olier, Jeremiah Efq.
Duquery, Henry Efq. Ireland
Duigenan, Patrick Efq. King's Counfel,
Ireland
Donoughmore, David Efq.
Downes, William Efq.
Dickfon, Stephen Efq.
Daubuz, C. L. Efq. Truro, Connvall
Davifon, George Efq. Quebec
Defenfans, Mr. Charlotte-ftreet
Delemaine, John Efq. Bemer's-Jlreet
Delemaine, Henry Efq. ditto
Dalrymple, Alexander Efq.
Delafield, Jof. Efq. Cqftle.J.eet
Daihwood, Captain 3d Regiment Guards
Dilly, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
E
Effingham, Right Hon, Earl of
Edwards, John Efq. Hale, Cornwall
EAe, Charles Efq.
Etches, Richard Cadman Efq.
Etches, William Efq.
Etches, John Efq.
Egerton, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
Edwards, Mr. Bookfeller, 10 Copiei
Evans, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
F
Falmouth, Right Hon. Lord Vif. Trtgtht
than, Cornwall
Fitzgibbon, Right Hon. Lord, Lord
High Chancellor of Ireland
Fitzgerald, Right Hon. Lord Charles '
Fitzgerald, Right Hon. James, Prime
Serjeant of Ireland
Flood, Sir Frederick Bt. Ireland
Franklin, Governor, Norton-Jreet
Frankland, R. Efq.
Forfter, George Efq. Plumbtree-Jreet
Forfter, Richard Efq. Kennington Lane
Fofter, Robert Efq.
Fitzhugh, Thomas Efq. China
Fitzhugh, William Efq. China
Fox, G. C. Efq. Falmouth, Cornwall
Fox, George Efq. Perran, ditto
Fox, Edward Efq. ff^adt-bridge, ditto
Freire,Chev. de, Portuguefe Minifter, aC
Fry, William Efq. fFallingtonf Surty
Felix, D. Efq. CentoH
J —
LIST OF SUBSCRIBER.^
Fifher, Mr. Richard Newcaftle
Fawkener, William Efq. Clerk of the
Privy Council
Frafer, James Efq. Goldtn-fquare
Faulder, Mr. Bookfeller, 1 1 Copies
G
Gosford, Right Hon. Lord Vifc.
Gould, Sir Charles Bart. Horfe Guards
Grant, Hon. John, Chief Juftice of JmaUa
Gel I, Captain Upper fVimpok-fireet
Gray, Richard Efq. Somerfet Place
Garnaulr, Captain
Goff, Jofeph Efq.
Gautier, Cornelius Efq.
Gray, Dr. William
Gould, William Efq.
Grote, George Efq. TbreadneeMe-firett
Gregor, Francis Efq. Refiormel-park^ Corn.
Goddard,AmbrofeEfq. M.P. Saville-row
Gordon, Robert Efq. Clarges-Jlreet
Gardner, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
H
Hawkefbury, Right Hon. Lord
Howard Right Hon. Lord
Harberton, Right Hon. Lord
HutchinfoD, Rt. Hon. John Hely, Princi-
pal Sec. of Sute, and Provoft of Tri-
nity College, DMtli»
Hobart, Rt. Hon. Mr. Sec. to His Ex-
cellency the Lord Lieut, of Ireland
Hamilton, Hon. Arthur Cole, M. P.
Hamilton, Baron
Hibbert, William Efq. Um-ftreet
Harrifon, A. Efq. Cafile-Jireet
Humphreys, O. Efq. St. James*s-firttt
Howell, David Efq.
Hartley, Travers Efq. Prefident of the
Chamber of Commerce, Ireland
Hoffman, G. G. Efq. ditto, Utto
Hamilton, Sackville Efq.
Hooe, Jofeph Efq.
Hayes, Samuel Efq. Avon Dale
Harrifon, Captain
Harris, Mr. Thomas BajmghaU-peet
Hulfe, Colonel
Harper, Colonel
Hunt, George Efq. Bodmin, Cornwall
Hawkins, John Adair, Great Mdlbro'-JIr.
Hunter, Robert Efq. King's Arms Tard,
Coleman Jlreet
Harlow, Mrs. Bookfeller, 3 Copies
Hookham, Mr. 12 Copies
HoU, Mr. Bookfeller, fVerceJler, 6 Copies
I
JafTray, Alexander Efq. Prefident of the
Chamber of Commerce, Ireland
James, Mr. John St. Agnes, Cornwall
Johnfon, Mr. J. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
Jefferey, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
K
Kingfton, Right Hon. Earl of
Kirkpatrick, Lieutenant James, at Col.
Kirkpatrick's, Slade Houfe^ Kent
Kingfl>ury, Thomas Efq.
Kay, Mr. Bookfeller, j Copies
Kearfley, Mr. Bookfeller, 3 Copies
L
Leeds, His Grace the Duke of
Leinfter, His Grace the Duke of
Lauderdale, Right Hon. Earl of
Latouche, Right Hon. David Governor
of the Bank of Ireland
Latouche, John Peter Efq. Banker
Latouche, James Digges Efq. ditto
Lemon, Sir W. Bait. Carclezv, Cornwall
Lemon, Major Horfe-Guardt
Lowndes, William Efq. Upper Clapton
Lane, Thomas Efq.
Lane, Henry Efq. Hampton-court
Leith, Rev. Lockhart, ChigweU
Le Mefuiier, P. Efq. Aid, and M. P.
Lyons, Robert £lfq.
l\i
SI
[i
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
I
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I
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II
^
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Lindfey, John Efq.
Lytc, Henry Efq.
Lofack, Richard Efq. Sloane-Jireet
Lance, David Efq. Southampton
Lance, Mrs. ditto
Lee, Robert Cooper Efqs Bedford-fquare
Law, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
Longman, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
M
Moira, Right Hon. Eail of
Mount Edgcumbe, Rt. Hon. Lord Vifc.
Mountjoy, Right Hon. Lord
Molefworth, Sir William Bart.
Molefworth, Richard EHi.
Macauley, G. M. Efq. Aid. and Sheriff
Martin, Colonel ^een-Anue'Jlreet, fVeJIm.
Milbanke, Admiral
Moftyn, John Efq.
Meares, Lewis W. Efq.
Meares, }o\in Eic\. Meares-court
Money, Captain Charles Berkley
Mackay, George Efq.
Muze, Mr. James Dozvgati fVharf
Minett, Hugh Efci, Aujlin Friars
Martin, James Efq. M. P.
M'Leod, John Efq. Colbeck, 4 Copies
M'Leod, Mrs. 4 Copies
Marriot, John Martin Efq. Lambs Cart'
duit'Jireet
Malkins, Thomas Efq. Hackney
M'Phcrfon, Colonel 3d Regiment Guards
Montagu, Captain Geo. Charles, IVhitting
N
Newcaftle, His Grace the Duke of
Nolken, His Excellency Baron, Swedifh
Ambaflador
Newcomen, Sir William Gleadowe, Bart.
Carrick-^ln/s
Nej^ean, Evan, Efq. Under Sec. of State
Nc.vbery, Mrs. Bjokfeller, 6 Copies
Nicol, Mr. G- Bookfeller, 6 Copies
Ordc, Sir John, Bart. Govj of DominiM
O'Ncil, Right Hon. John M. P.
Oxnam, Richard Efq. Penzance, CortHMU
Ommanney, Edward Efq. Bedford-fquari
O'Connor, Vail Efq.
Otridge, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
P
Palmerfton, Right Hon. Lord Vifcount
Perry, Right Hon. Lord
Provotl of King's College, Dublin
Power, Baron
Peachcy, John Efq. IVimpole-flrett '
Philips, Fred. Efq. Stanley-place, CheJ}:irt
Papillon, David Efq. Lee, Kent
Parry, Thomas Samuel £fq. Berners-Jlrett
Palmer, Geofge Efq.
Pafcoe, James Efq. Penzance, Cormvall
Prout, Mr. T. O. St. Agnes, ditto
Pole, Charles Efq. 3 Copies <
Perkins, Colohel, Marines
Pafley, John Efq. jfefries-fquare
Parkin, Hugh Efq. China
Paterfon, George Efq. Upper Norton-Jlreet
Payne, Mr- and Sons, Bookfellers, 6 C.
Phillips, Mr. Bookfeller, 6 Copies
R
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dk
1 '
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
I
1 V
'I
\
6
JNTRODUCTORY VOYAGE of the Ship liooTK.A» /rom Calcutta to
•* the North Weft Coaft of America, intbe Tears l^}%fimdl'JZ^. — ' »
OBSERVATIONS on the probable Exiftence of a North West Passage, zli
Some ACCOUNT of the TRADE between the North Weft Coaft of America
andO)iua, fcff. — — — — — Ixxi
CHAP. I.
Preparations far the Fayage.—Hanna, a Prince of the Ifland of Atooi^ and other Natives ^
the Sandwich Iftes embark.'—Cbamffer of Tianna. — Complement of the Crew of both
Ships, — ^antity of Cattle ^ ^c. embarked for the Sandwich Iftes.'— Departure of the
Felice md IPHiGSMiA/rvm China. mm — — i
C H A P. II.
Tie IpHicENiA fprings her Foremaft.'—Pq[fage to the Philippines.— Sail along the Coaft
of Luconia.'—Pafs Goat Ifland, the Iftes of Luban, Ifland ofMindoro and the Calamines*
Scurvy breaks out on board the l]fHionviA.~-Pafs the Ifland of Panay.— Mutinous Co»-.
duff of the Crew on board the Felice, ^c. — — — is
CHAP. III.
Sicknefs of the Sandwich Iftanders.— Death of Winee s her CbaraHer, ^c.—Deftrutlion tf
Cattle.— 'Iflands of Baftlan and Magindanao. — The Ships anchor off" the latter.— ne Car-
penters and Party fent on Shore to cut a Maft, i^c.—Lofs of a China Man.'—SpaHiardt
fent on hoard to compliment the Ships*— Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera.— Behaviour
cjf the Spanifh Governor, i£c. — — — .. 2^
CHAP. IV.
Reception at Samboingan.— Friendly Behaviour of the Governor, (Sc. —He viftts the
Ships, i^tt— The Jkuc^ prepares t9 put to Sea.-^Lo/es an Anchor and departs for
America*
ot
r*ge
34
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
America.'-^ome Account of Magindanao, ^(.—'Aftronomicd Oi/ervatious, Anchoraget
(Sc. — the Fillage of Samboingan. — Spanijb Force and Power.-— Defcription of a Ball
given ly the Governor, and the Manners of the People. — Nautical Obfervations on the
P(^age between the China Seas and the Northern Pacific Ocean. — Danger of navigating
the Q>ina Seas. — Account o/the feveral Pajfages between the two UccanSf with Direc
tions, ^c.—Pajfage between Formofa and the Philippines.-— Bajbee IJles .•—Defcriplion
of them. -mm — — — —
C H A P. V.
Departure of the Felice from Samboingan.'— Pafs the Felice* s IJles. — Mention of the Or-
ders and Injlru£i ions given by the Merchants Proprietors for performing the Voyage. —
Extraordinary Change in the Teniper of the Buffaloes received on board. — Pafs the Ijland
^Magindanao. — RapiSty of the Currents. — Efcape the Ijland of Providence. — Pafs the
*tahur IJlands. — Ijland of Sanguir.— See the North Cape. — Impojjibility of Weathering
it. — Invariablenefs of the Trade IVinds in the Pacific Ocean.— Bear up to Leeward of the
North Cape.— Pafs the Ijland Riou.—Tbe Channel between Morintay and the Ijland of
JeloUt— 'Fragrance of the Air.'— Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay.— Reach the
Sea.— The Latitude of Morintay afcertained. — _ — 6z
C H A P. VI.
Shifs Courfe purfued to the Eajhvard^—Gtrrentsfet her to the Ijland of lVagiew.—Symp~
toms oftbeScurvy among the Crew — IVind veers,f6rtbefirft Timet to the North Weft^—.
Pafs IVagiew and the dangerous Tatee IJles. — Freewill IJles feen.— Natives come on
board.— Their Joy at feeing Iron.— 'Some Account of thofe IJles.— 'Their Latitude and
Longitude^ (dc. — Tbejlrong Currents in their Vicinity, — ^^
74
CHAP. VIL
FMreme Heat of the IVediher. — Very tempeftuous.— Spring the Foremajl*—Lofs of fome of
the Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. — DeftruUion of many of the Plants intended for the Sand-
wich Ijles. — Reafonsfor pointing the Ship's Courfe to the North IVeJi, i^c. — Mode of
viHualling the Crew. — Occupations on Board.— Intention of Building a Vejfel of fifty Tons
in King George's Sound. — Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model. — Cbinefe Carpen-
ters ignorant of Sbip-building. — Great Burthen of the Chinefe Junks. — Party feleifed to
remain in King George's Sound. — Experience the Tail of a Tuff'oon. — Change of the Alon-
foons. — Terrible Effeils ofTuffoons in the Chinefe Seas and Northern Pacific Ocean.
'■'''- CHAP. VIII.
Land/een, but prevented from approaching it — Difcvoery of IJlands, which we named Gram-
pus Ifles. — Feel tbefVeatber extremely cold, with the probable Reafon qf it.— Number of
... . Birds
83
m
%
>ai«.
r- I-* ' I '— '
\<>i
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TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Birds ften.—'Pafs by great ^antities of Reck-iveed. — Difeover aftmpenitus Reekf wbieb
ivf named Lot's Wife. — The Rafter of an HoHfey auda Piece of Came feen Jhating on the
ff^.Uer. — Tempejtuous IVeather. — H^eatber becomei ftormy as the AmerieoH Coaft is ap^
proacbed. — Crofs the Tracks of the Refolution and Difcovery.—^Error of the Ship's Reck'
c:iii!g,^c. — A Sea Pan-ot feen for the ftrj} Time. — Extraordinary Brightnefs in the Ah
mofphnr, ami to zvhat Caufe attributed. — Tlx Oktft of America feen. — Princefs Royal fails
uit of King George's Sound, — Dijirefs of the Felice, fcff — Anchor in Friendly Cove,
III King George's Sound. — — — ~" 93
CHAP. IX.
The ccmmodiotis Situation of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound.— Great Numbers of the
Natives affemble to view the Ship.-^Tbe Joy ofComekela on his Arrival, (^c.—Hannapa
a Chief, comes on board. — ComeL'/a prepares to go onJhore.—His Drefs, i^c. — Employ-
vients of ibe Crciv .—The Arrival of Maquilla, Chief of King George's Sound, with Cal-
licim, a Perfon the next in Rank to him.— A Defcription of their Dreffes, and the Cere^
monies they praHifed on feeing the Ship. — Leteoe obtained to build an Houfe and Veffel.—'
Callieum attaches himfelf to the Ship, and is appointed Proleflor of the Party on fbore,
by Maquilla. — An Hmife built.^'Keel of a Feffellaid. — Some Account of the Murder of
Callieum by the Spaniards, in the following Tear. — — 108
C H A P. X.
Methods employed by the Knives to advance the Price of Sea Otter Skins. — Condull of Co-
mekela — Made a Chief through our Inftuence — His Marriage. — The Magnificence of the
Entertainment on the Occafton. — Maquilla and his Chiefs affeil our Drefs and Manners, •
Valuable Prefent of Maquilla. — A Grindjione folen. — An human Hand offered for
Sale. — Narrow Efcape of the Natives on the Occajion. — Melancholy Lofs of Part of the
Crew of the Imperial Eagle, in lyZj.—Sufpicion that Maquilla is a Cannibal. — Extraor-
dinary Pillow of Callieum. — The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall
Dijtanee. — — — — — 119
, . , c H A P. xr.
Ship prepares to put to Sea.— Pinnace ftolen by the Natives. — Impojftbility of recovering her.
—Some Uneajineffes on board the Ship. — Officers and Party intended to be left en fbore,
landed. — Provijions made for equipping the new Veffel. — A formal Vifit to Maquilla, and
Renewal of the Treaty, t^e.—He is made acquainted with the probable Time of the IPHi-
6BMIa's Arrival. — Requefts a Letter for the Captain. — Our Aflonijbment at his Know-
ledge, and by what Means it was obtained. — Story of Mr. Maccay. — Callieum arrives
from hunting the Sea Otter. — Articles, which bad belonged to Sir Jofepb Banks, in bis
PoJfeJfioH.^'Tbe Ship pias to feOi^^Plmt of future Proceedings, (^c» — 127
CHAP.
I-
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TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAP. XII.
ne Chiefs Hanna and Detootche vifit the Ship on berfVay to the Rejidence of H^icanani/h^
i^c.—'Wicananifh pilots the Ship into bis Rotdjfed. — Numbers of the Inhabitants come off
to the Ship —The Country and Village of IVicanani/b defcribed. — Vifit paid to the Chief,
—Defcription of bis Houfe.— -Their Ingenuity a fubjeil of Ajionifhment.—Immenfe
Family of kVicananifh. — His fVives ,- their Beauty^ ^c. — Bri/i Trade carried on ■Kith
the Natives. — Murder of a Stranger by the People of the Village. — 7he Ship obliged
by bad Weather to enter the Inner Port, named Port Cox. — —
^•111*
'3+
CHAP. XIII.
The People of IVicananifh left civilized than thofe at Nootlta. — Certain ncceffary Precautions
occafion a Coolnefs between us and the Qjief. — Good Underflanding redored. — Ufe of Fire
Arms known tothefe People. — The Village removes to a f mall Dijlunce. — Treaty between
tVicanani/h, Hanna and Detootche.— Good Confequences refulting to us from the Treaty.—
Prefents made to and received from fVicananifh. — Prcfent arrives from King George's
Sound, ^c — Prepare for Sea. — The Felice proceeds on her Voyage.'—Defftiption of
Port Cox, i^c. — — _. — _ 144
CHAP. XIV.
Purfue our Courfe to the Southward. — Numerous Villages feated on the Shore.— The Inhabi-
tants come off to the Ship. — Dif cover the Straits of John de Fuca. — Their Extent and
Situation. — Tatootcbe ctmts on board. — Bad Behaviour of the Natives. — Purfue our Courfe
along the Coafl. — Short Account of the Strait t of John de Fuca. — Paffed the Ijland of Ta-
tootcbe and numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coafl Violence of the South Eafl Storms. —
Cape Flattery. — Village of Claffet. — Ship enters the Bay of ^tccubjhe. — Savage Appear-
ance of the Place.— See the Village of ^teenuitctt. — Dcflrti.'/ioi: Ifle — Danger if the
Ship, ^c. — — — — — 150
CHAP. XV.
Our Progrefs along the Coafl. — Dif cover Shoalwater Bay. — Natives come off'. — Their boneft
Dealing. — Purfue our Courfe. — Deception Bay. — Difference between the Spanifb Charts of
Maurellt and the real Situation of the Coafl. — Beautiful Appearance of the Country.-—
Pafs ^ickfand Bay and Qipe Look-out — See three remarkable Rocks.— Clqfe our Pr>ygrefs
to the Southward. — Future Plan rf Proceeding. — Parts left unexplored by CaptJin Cook,
nnv vifited. — Purfue our Courfe to the North. — Anchor in Port Effingham. — A Dtfcrif-
tion (fitf bSc. — — — — _ 1 6 1
CHAP. XVI.
Take Pojpjj^a of the Strailsofde Fuca in tb* Nam of the King of Great Britain Vfited by
the Natives.— Long-boat equipped and fent on. an Expedition. — Stranocrs refort to the Ship,
c —Anxiety
\iA,
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
FW
f 'V'
H
iiii
v{
— Anxiety on Acouni of the Lon^-boat, zvhkh at length arrives. — Rea/on of btr quick
Return. — Conflici with the Natives of the Straits of de Fuca. — Dijlance advanced up tkt ,
Stritiis of de Fucu. — Pojitioii of them. — Huiiun Heads offered to fale. — Prepare for Sea.-—
Leave tort F.ffitigham.—Accouitt oj the Port and Sound. — Progrefs of the nezv f''effel, i^c. 173
CHAP. XVII.
Anxiety of the Party on Shore. — Reports fprcid by the Natives. — Improvement made In the
Hoiife, y^. — /Iflcnijlment of the Natives at the Building of the I'ejfel. — Our Obfervation of
the Sjbbdth an Oijjrl ofCurufitytn them, — Some Kmnckdge of their Religion derived front
thence. — Dcjign of pro( ceding a^ain to Port Cox. — Our Intentions fi up ated. — Mutiny on
Boatd. 1'he Peijbns loncerned in it turned on Shore, i£c, r^ -^ ^83
CHAP. XVIII.
ConduH of the Party on Shore, reJpeSliitg the Mutiny. — Ihe Mutineers go to live with Maquilla
and Qillicum — A>c f ripped of their Ctoaths, and made to work. — Princefs Rcyal feen in the
Offing. — Prepare for Sea. — ^/// King George's Sound afecond Time. — Maquilla and Callicum
prepare for IVar. — Arms lent to them. — Strength of Maquilla' s Forces. — He departs on bis
Expedition to the Northward.— -Injlruilions given to tbe Parly on Shore, ^c. -^ 190
CHAP. XIX.
Sail for Port Cox. — Meet the Princefs Royal. — Anchor in Port Cox. — fficananifl} removed to
Clioquatt. — Long-boat fent there with Prefents, isfc. — Defcription ofOioquatt. — fVicoHamfb -
arrives on board, to take his Leave. — His Son propofes to embark with us, which
we decline. — Put to Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound. — Arrival of the Iphi-
OENiA. — Tianna's affeSHonate Behaviour, t^c. — Arrival of Maquilla and Callicum from their
Expedition, idc. — — — — — 199
C H A P. XX.
f%e Crew of tbe Iphigenia employed on tbe new Feffel. — Inhabitants prepare to retire to their
fVinter garters. — Dijpojitions relative to the exiled Part of the Crezv. — Maquilla and CaUi~
cum pay us a Fifit previous to their Departure. — A Sail fen in tbe Offing, which proves to be
tbe American Sloop fVaJhington.—Some Account of ber Voyage, bft.—The new Feffel named '
and launched. — Orders delivered to //*; Iphigenia. — Tianna embarks on board her.—^it
King George's Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich IJlands — — an
CHAP. XXI.
General Account of the Nations feen on the North Weflem Coafl of America. — 7beir Situation,
Villages, Population, ^c. — Knowledge of ihe People to tbe Southward of ^eenhithe, in
a great Degree coi^i'^ural. — Some Account of tbe American Continent, from Cape Saint
James to tbe Southward.— Qimates^^eaJotts-^Windi — Slorms'—Harbours-'Naviga-
tin, 6ff. — — _ — — ag<
CHAP,
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
ft'
CHAP. XXII.
Account of the DiJlriU o/Noolka continued, — Fege/ai/e ProduUions. — Great PUnty tflVild
Fruits — Efculent Roots, &c. — Quadrupeds— Deer — Foxes — Martens — The Ermine —
Squirrel, Wf. — Marine Animals : — The fVbale, Sword- Fi/lb, Seals, (^e. —Particular
Account of the Sea Otter, — Various Kinds of Birds, — Aquatic Fowls, — Fifb of various
Kinds. — Manner of taking fame of them. — Reptiles.— 'InfeSls. — Minerals, — OtHjeiluns
concerning Mines in this Country, £j?f. (£c. — — ,_ 236
CHAP. XXIII.
^tbe Perfons of the Inhabitants defcribed, — the Manner in which they treat their Infant
Children — their Averfton to Beards. — Drejfes, Male and Female, — Various Kinds of
them. — Their Majks, and the Ufes ofthem,—Difpofition and Temper of the Nativcs.-^An
horrid Cuftem of kilting a Slave every Month, for the Purpofe of eating biai. — The Cere-
monies ufedott this Occafion, — Circumftance which led to the Difoiery of this Pra^ice, ^f, 249
CHAP. XXIV.
Employments of the Men ofNootka. — They confift, in general, of bunting different Marine
and Laud Animals. — Killing the JVhale, idc. defcribed. — MelboJ of bunting the Sea-Olter,
the Seal, ^c. — Their more domeftic Occupations. — Making Implements for Fijbing and
tVar.— Their Canoes : — A Defcription of them, — A particular Manner of I'i//.i<ig. — Em-
ployments of the IVomen. — Manner of colleHing and preferving the Roes cf Fijh. — The
Difpofition of the People to fVar.—Cuflom of exchanging their tVomen. — Religion, (Jc. 258
C H A P. XXV.
The Felice proceeds on her Voyage. — Arrive off Owhyhee. — Heave to in Tee-yah yah Bay.
Theprefent State of that IJland. — Prefent, in the Name ofTianna, to the Chief of it. —
Leave Owhyhee. — Improvement in falting Provifions. — Pafs the Ijlands of Movocc, Ra-
nai, Morotoiand fVoaboo. — Arrive off Atooi. — The political State of that IjLmd. — /Irrive
at Oneeheow. — Proceed on the Voyage. — Make the Ijland of Botol Tobago Xima. — Round
the Rocks qfVille Rete. — Make the Coaji of China. — Anchor in the Roads of Macao. 272
CHAP. XXVI.
VOYAGE OF THE IPHIGENIA, CAPT. DOUGLAC.
Condu^ of the Governor ofSamboingan to Captain Douglas, after the Departure of the Fe-
lice.— The l?RiCE,ifiA fails from Samboingan. — Arrives off a fmall Ijland, now named
Jobnftone's Ijland. —Tawneef a Sandwich IJlander, dies. — Pafs through the Pelew Ijlcs, &c. 287
CHAP. XXVII.
See the Ijland ofAmluk.^See Land, which is mi/laken for Trinity I/land.'— A moji violent
Cale.-^Defcriptiott of the Land. — Seethe Ijland of Kodiak. — Arrive off Trinity Ijland. —
I Vijited
i M
V,
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TABLE OF CONTENTS.
'•*'
>.
i 1
'
I: .>
T/yy/rt/ ^y /wo Canirs. — Si-hJ ibe Jolly-boat on Sborr, to try for Fi/h.-See Cape Grevilte.
— Pa/s the Barren IjLnds. — Receive a Viftt from a Ri^jjian and fome Kodiak Hunters.— ^,
Run up Qjok's River. — Commuiiicativi ivilb tbe Natives.— li^eigb anchor, and fleer to the
South End of MoHlagite Ijland. — Stand in for Snug corner Bay, iJc. (Jc. — 301
CHAP. XXVIII.
Sail from Snug-corner Hay. — Pafs Kaye's IjlanJ. — Clfc in ivith Cape Suckling. — Send tbe
Long-loat into Bbrring's Bay. — See IjlaiiJs of Ice. — Purcbafe a great Number of Sea -
Otter Skins, isc. ff tbe Natives of Crofs Cape. — Ajingular Example of tbe Power of tbe
Women among tbem.—'Steer into S^a-Oller Bay.— Pafs Douglas Ijland. — Pouter a Bay,
called Meares's Bay, — Pafs Rofe Point. — Join tbe Vv.iici at Nootka^ i^c, — 317
CHAP. XXIX.
Tbe IpHioF.NiA and N. W. America leave Nootka Sound. — Arrive off tbe (/land o/Mozvee.
— Tianna receives his Brother on board, — Airive nffOwhyhee. — A Vi/itfrom tbe King.—
Anchor in Karak.ikooa Bay. — Ceremony of receiving Captain Douglas on Shore. — Tbe
N. W. America and Iphigenia part from their Cahles, — Sifpefi the Natives of ibis
A^l of Treachery. — The Divers employed, and recover tbe Cables, £j?f. — Tiauna leaves tbe
Ship, to fettle in Ozvbybee. — Account of tbe late Change in the Government there, i:fc, 334
CHAP. XXX.
Arrive off Woaboo. — Reception given by Titeeree to Captain Douglas.— Proceed to Atooi.—^
Tabeo, the Sovereign, retires up the Country. — Returns, and vifits tbe Iphigenia.—
Captain caulivied of fccrct Defigns againft him. — Proceed towards Onccheow. — Forced by
contrary Gales to If^otilxo. — Arrive at Owbybee. — Alliance entered into by the Princes of
tbe neighbouring Ijlands. — Affijiance given by Captain Douglas to tbe Sovereign of Owbybee,
and Tianna. — ^a't Owbybee. — Difpute among the Seamen at llymoaBay. — Proceed to
Oneeberjufor Tams. — ^it the Sandwich Iflands, &c. — — 347
CHAP. XXXI.
Proceed to tbe N. IK Coaft of America. — Pafs Bird Ifland. — Arrive at Nootka Sound. — Ar-
rivalofa Spanijb Ship.— Seizure of tbe Iphigenia, i^c. — She is obliged to leave Nootka,
and proceeds to the Northward — Anchors off' a Village, named Fort Pitt. — Defeription
of Buccleugb's Sound. — Anchor in Haines's Cove. — An Account of Mac Int ire's Bay.
Examine Cox's Channel. — A Defign formed by the Natives to get Poffcffion of the Ship
Trade with tbe Natives of Tatatue. — Return to the Sandwich Ijlands. — Efeape from a
Defign of tbe King and Chiefs of Owbybee. — Proceed to China.— -Arrive at Macao, &?<■. 359
TABLES of tbe Route of the Felice, ^e.—The Variation of tbe Compass ; and
Meteorological Obsbrvatiohs during tbe Voyage — «^ 473
APPENDIX, containing Official Papers, (^c. [ ' '"^ " '
AN
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE
O F T H B
NOOrKJ.—CAV'^, MEARES,
■FROM
CALCUTTA, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
In the Years 1786, and 1787.
■h
IT might, perhaps, prove unintereftlng to the reader were I to enter upon the
hiftory of this commercial expedition, — or to dwell on the patriotic fpirit of
many diftinguilhed perfons at Bengal which fupported it, as well as thofe honour-
able marks of zealous friendship and liberal confidence, which accompanied its
confignment to my care. — It might alfo be equally unimportant to others to be in-
formed of the oppofition it received, — the arts employed to fruftrate it,— and the
various, as well as painful difficulties I had to furmount in the arrangement
of it :-rI fhall, therefore, proceed at once to relate the principal occurrences
of the voyage which it occafioned.
On the 20th of January 1786, two veflels were purchafed for the purpofe
of this expedition, which were named the Nootka, of 200 tons, and the
Sea Otter, of 100 tons. The former was commanded by myfelf, the latter
by William Tipping, a lieutenant in the Royal Navy.
/I By
.\#
11
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
By tlic 20th of Tcbruary, tluy were ready for fea, when two offers were
made to thccommittc-, who were appointed to arrange the iicccflary preparation*
for the voyage, on the pait of the general body of proprietors : the one was to
frtiglit t!ic Soa Otter to Malacca with opium, which would be a gain of about
three thouf.ind rupees ; — The committee, therefore, did not hefitatc an hiAant
in accepting it ; and the Sea Otter was immediately difpatched on her voyage :—
From Malacca Captain Tipping was to proceed to the North Weft Coaft of
America, and tlie ncceflhry arrangements were made for our meeting there.
k
k
'- \
i
t/.
^
m
The otlier offer was to convey Mr. Burke, Pay-mafter General of the King's
Forces in India, with his fuite, to Madras, for which he propofed to pay the
fum of three thouHmd rupees. — This advantage was not to be refufcd, and
accordingly I iiad the honour of conveying him thither.
On the ad of March, we got under fall and proceeded as fiir as the governor**
garden, where in the evening we received, Mr. Burke and his fuitc oi>
board.
On the 12th of March we loA fight of land, and proceeded on our voyage
to Madras, where we arrived on the 27tli, without the intervention of any
occurrence worthy of relation. — Our paflage was cftecmed extremely quick at
that particular llafon of the year. — After landing our paflengers and procuring
additional fupplics of ftorcs and provifions, by the kind afllftance of Jof^
Dupree Porcher, E(q. we prepared to put to fea, which we accordingly did on
the 7th of April, the very day that his Excellency Sir Archibald Campbell
arrived to take upon him the government of Madras. At this place we received
every mark of kindnefs, attention and encouragement. Nor among the many
to whom we are ftill grateful for favour and for friendfliip, can we hefitate ta
mention the names of Mr. Burke, Mr. Porcher, and Mr. Boyd, as well as to
acknowledge the peculiar obligations we received from his Excellency Go-
vernor Davidfon,
It
INTRODUCTORY VOYAC. F,.
m
Tf may not Iw jinpropcr to mention th;it, at the time of oiir leaving Bengal,
»n kinds of ftores wcil i'o extremely fcarce, that the Ihip was hiit b.ircly
cquijip »1 for one year; and as for proviiionj, \\c had not on board fullicicnt for
twelve ni' itlis, and nothing ^vns more apparent thnn the impofllbility of
completing a voyage of this nature in fuih a ftatc. Wc had, indeed, looked
to Madras in fomc meafiirr', for the afliftance wc receivid, which was to
compleat our equipment for eighteen montlis.* With rcfpcdl to the number i>i
our crew wc were ftrongly manned, but tluy were chiefly of a defcription that
ncccflity rendered acceptable. Tl»c whole amounted to forty Europeans, including
the purfer, I'urgeon, five officers, and boatfwain, and ten lafcars whom we took
in at Madras. But all our exertions were fruitlcfs in obtaining a carpenter, and
the want of fuch an artizan was moft levcrcly felt iu every part of the v yage.
It was the 23d of May before we arrived at Malacca : — our paflage wa» un-
ufually tedious, and afforded time for the fcurvy to make its appearance. In tilii
early part of our voyage we loft the boatfwain, who was one of the beft
men in the (hip, and, in our fituation and circumftances, proved an irreparable
misfortune. On our arrival at Malacca we were informed tliat Captain Tipping
had failed for America, having complcated his bufmefs there. Here we wooded,
watered and took in the neceflary refreshments, not only to fupply the provi-
fions already exhauftcd, but to enable us to give every poflible afliftance to
Captain Tipping, when we fhould meet him on the Coaft of America. On the
a9th we put to fea, after faluting the Dutch Fort with nine guns, which com*
plimeut was returned with an equal mark of refpefl.
In a very few days wc effefted our entrance into the China Seas, and purfued
our courfe with a ftrong South Weft Monfoon, till the zzd of June, when
the Bafliee Iflands were feen bearing Eaft South Eaft half Eaft, diftant nine
leagues. But it was the 26th before we could come to an anchor, at Grafton
Ifle, which we then did, in a fmall and pleafant bay, in fix fathoms of water,
and about a quarter of a mile from the ihore.
^ 2 This
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE,
This bay is furrounded by high land, whicli is cultivated to the rum«
mits, and the plantations, &c. being divided into inclofures neatly fenced in,
afford a very pleafing view. A large village was lituated on a gentle eminence ,
near the water ; fine groves of trees were fancifully difperfed on the fides of
the mountains, while a rapid rivulet glided through the valley ; the whole
forming a fcene of uncommon beauty. About four years before, the Spaniards
had taken pofTeffion of tliefe Ifles, in the expeftation of finding the bowels of
them enriched with the precious metals. The governor and his garrifon, &c.
treated us with great civility, nor did they, in the leafV, interfere with
our little trading communications with the natives, — who appear to be a mofl
inofFeniive race of people. VVe remained here four days, during which time
we obtained great plenty of hogs, goats, du'cks, fowls, yams, and fweet
potatoes, in return for unwrougbt iron. ®
On the ift of July we took our leave of the Bafhee Iflands, and fleered to
the North Eafl, a courfe along the Japan Ifles, but without feeing any land.
The charts lay down ifles which we muft have gone over, according to the
fituation in which they are placed. After pafling the latitude of 25° North, we had
one continual fog, which Wiis oftentimes fo thick, that it was impoffible to fee
the length of the veflll. On the ift of Auguft, having laid to the preceding
night, we judged that we were near land, and in the morning, at daylight, we
got fight of it, through the Fog Banks, when we found it to confift of the
Ifles of Amluc and Atcha. We flood in for the former, and anchored there for
two days, during which time we were vifited both by the Rufllans and the
natives. In our pafTage to Ounalafchka we were driven among five iflands where
dangers furrounded us on all fides, and without being able to fee our way, but we
providentially cfcaped them. It had, indeed, been one continued fog ever fince
we crolTed the latitude of 35°, and from that time we had not been able to
make more than two obfervations. We very fortunately had a time piece
on board, which proved of the greateft utility.
The
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. t
The five ifles among which we had been fo much embarraffed, are defcribed
in Coxe's Ruflian Dllcovcrics by the names of Pat Sopka : — that writer alfo
mentions the deftrudlion which many of the Ruflian Navigators have found
between thefc iflcs ami Kamfchatka. They arc uninliabitcd, and fcem to be
notliing more than huge maflls of entire rock. Two of them bear a flrong
refemblauce to each other, and poflefs rather a correal form of a fugar loaf.
On the 5th of Auguft in the afternoon we found ourfelves furroundcd by a
great number of canoes, whic!', from the drefs and mariners of the people in
them, we were certain muft belong to fon^e of the iflcs, though we imagined
ourlclvcs to be too far to the Southward for them to come ofl". Tliis little
fleet was engaged in the biifinefs of whale fifliing, and after flopping a fliort
time to ex.imine'the vefl'cl, whicli they did with every appearance of extreme
admiration, they left us and paddLd off to tlie Northward. We now ft:eered
a little more to the Southward, as we fuppofcd that the current had iet us to
the Northward of our reckoning. The fog continued to be fo very thick, that
it was impoflible to fee any obje£t at twenty yards difl:ance from the fliip;— ^
but from the number of canoes we had pafl'cd, there was every rcafon to fup-
pofc we were in the neighbourhood of land, which mufl, in all probability,
have been theiflandof Amouchta.
The following night we were alarmed by hearing the fiirge of the Tea upon
the fliorc ; — we inftantly tacked, and when we had flood on about two hours,
we were re-alarmed with the fame noife. We tacked again and as foon
as it was day-light, we caught a glimpfe of the land, over the mafl:-head,
which appeared to be covered with fnow. But the fog again became impervious
to our fight, as it were, to cncreafe the horrid fufpenfc of our fituation. —
During four days of gloom in our minds, as well as in the air, we were con-
tinually endeavouring, but in vain, to obtain a paflage, but every way appeared
to be blocked up againft us. The hoarfff dafliing of the lurge drove us from
one fide, in order to be re-impelled by the (iime alarming warnings on the
other
l^:
:ii
•mk I ^"^f I'll 'yPr
*i
A
VI
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
other. We had, Indeed, every reaibn to believe that we had pafled by fome narrow
inkt hito a gulph furroiinded with fatal fliores, and from which there was no
return but by the channel through which we entered. Though we were frequently
within an hundred yards of the rocks, foundings were impraiSllcable, and the
ilecpnels of the fliorc rendered our anchors of no ufe.
li '<?■
On the 5th in the morning, the fog cleared away, and gave us a moft awful
profpe^t of dangers whicli our happy experience was fcarce fufficicnt to convince
us that it was poflible ro have efcaped. We now Hiw ourfclvcs lurrounded
with land of a tremendous height, which was covered two-thirds down its
lidcs with fnow ; while the coaft was inacceflible from the lofty, perpendicular
rocks which formed a regular wall, except where the violent beating of the
fea had made thofe excavations which, with the rife and fall of a prodigious
fwcll, occafioned the warning noife that proved our prefervation. We now
faw two open channels, one to the Southward, through which we had been
driven, and another to the North Weft. Indeed if we fteered at all to that
point we fliould at once have got clear of our alarming fituation : but we
h .d been all along apprehenfive of getting to the Northward of thefe ifles,
being aware of the difficulty of getting again to the Southward, the currents
being well known to take a Northerly diredlion in the fummer ; and then we
might have been detained an uncertain length of time, till a ftrong Northerly
wind arofe to drive us back — the South Wefterly winds being the moft gene-
rally prevalent in thefe feas at this period of the year. Finding it, however,
impoffible to go to the Southward, by the channel through which we came,
on account of the ftrength of the current, we bore up and went to the North-
ward, and having got as far to the Eaftward as Ounalafhka, we were fo for-
tunate as to meet with a ftrong North wind, which enabled us to get through
between Unamah and Onalafhka. In thefe ftraits the current could not run
lefs than feven knots an hour, which caufed a moft tremendous fca.
When
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
«i}
When wp got round to the South fule of the ifland, a Ruffian canjc oft
to us and piloted our fhip into an harbour adjacent to that in which Captain
Coo V reficicc^.
The Ruffians on thefc ifles, came from Ochotlk and Kamfchatka in galleot of
about 50 tons burthen, havhig from fixty to eighty men each. They heave
their veliels up in fome convenient place, during their ftation here, which is for
eight years ; at the end of which time they are relieved by another party.—
They hunt the fea-otters and other animals whom nature has cloathed in furs.
The natives of the different diftrids are alfo employed in the fame occupations,
and are obliged to give the fruits of their toil, as a tribute to the Emprtfs of
Ruffia, to whom this trade exclufively belongs. — In return, they receive fmall
quantities of fnuff", of which they are immoderately fond; and, obtaining that
favourite article, they are content with their wretched condition, from whence,
as far as refpeds any exertion of their own, they will never emerge. As to
iron, or any other European commodity, it is as fcarce with them, as with thels
continental neighbours.
The houfes of the Ruffians are conftrudled upon the fame principles as thoffe
of the natives, but on a plan of larger extent. They conlift of cavities dug in
the earth, and a flranger might be in danger of falling into rliem, without
having the leaft fufpicion that he was within the verge of any habitation ; as the
only entrance into thcfe lubterraneous places of refidence, is through a round
hole at the top of them, and by apoft with ftcps cut in it, as thcmcaiis of defcent.
Indeed, fuch an accident happened, on the firfl: evening of our landing, to the
firft officer and furgcon of the Nootka. — On their return from a Ruffian village,
they fuddenly difappeared through one of thefe iioles, and intruded themfdves,
in a very unexpeded manner, to an houfehold of the natives. The fright on
the occafion was mutual;— the one hurrying out of the place as faft: as their
fears could carry them, leaving the fallen gentlemen, in expedatlon that the
invaded people, with whole mild and amiable manners they were not then ac-
quainted.
t:
■Mit
S
ifc
viii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
quainted, would inftantly give the alarm, and call their friends to revenge the
innocent invafion by murder and maflacre. — They found, however, ou their
return above p-round,that the natives had fled in extreme confufion and affright
to the Rufllan village. The next morning, the accident was explained ; and a
fmall prelent of tobacco made the poor people ample recompence for the alarm
of the preceding evening.
Eifl i
The fides of thefc dwellings are divided into copartments for the purpofe of
flecpiiig, — the Ikins of animals ferving them for their beds; and in the center
is the place for drefiing and eating their viifluals. In the very cold weather, tliey
ufe lamps iiifteadof wood : — as there are no trees on the iflands, wood muft be
a v.ery fcarce article, having no other fupply, but the accidental drifts of it from
the continent. Their diet confifts entirely of filh with the oil of the fame for
lauce. This manner of living is common both to the Ruifians and the
natives, except that the former boil their food, and the latter eat it in a raw
ftate. We have frequently feen them eat, or rather devour, the head of a cod
or a halibut, immediately after it was caught, with all the figns of voracious
fatisfatflion. The only vegetable thefc idands produce is wild cellery, which the
natives eat as it is pulled out of the ground.
Though the Ruffians have been fo long fettled on thefe iflands, they have
produced no kind of cultivation whatever. They have not any of the domefl:ic
fowls or animals, except dogs ; — nor had we an opportunity to examine whether
this want of comforts and conveniencies, which are of fuch eafy attainment,
arofe from local barrennefs, or their own indolence. Their fole dependance for
food, is on the produce of the fea and the rivers, which, however, afford them
great abundance of excellent fi(h ; and, if a proper judgment may be formed
from the ftrong and healthy appearance of the natives, or the colonifls, they
do not want a more wholefome or ftrengthening fuftenauce.
Th«
1
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
K
The natives of thefe ifles, which are known by the appellation of the Fox
Iflaiids, are a fhort and flout race of people, with full round countenances, that
bear no traces of a favage difpodtion. — ^They do not cut, fcarrify, or ia any
manner disfigure their faces, like the natives of the continent ; and are, to all
appearance, of an harmlefs and inofFenfive chara£ler. Jealoufy, at leaft, is not
among their ordinary paflions, as they difcover no (ymptoms of difpleafure at
any attentions which ftrangers may be difpofed to pay to the female part of
their community.
The only animals on thefe iflands are foxes, fome of which are black, and whofe
fkins are very valuable. While we lay here, we endeavoured to engage the
Ruffians to trade with us ; but they fet too high a value on their furs to difpofe
of them tons, at leaft for any thing we had to give in return; more particularly
as they expected to be relieved the following year. The harbour we entered is
fituated about ten or twelve miles from that where Captain Cook refitted, and
lies in the latitude of 54° ^' North ; longitude, 193" 25' Eaft of Greenwich,
On the 20th day of Auguft, we failed from Ounalafhka, in order to run down the
continent, till we (hould pafs the Shumagin Iflands, as Captain Cook defcribes
Kodiak one of the Southern. Indeed, \ve wiflied to be clear of the Ruffian
fettlements, as we knew nothing was to be got in the vicinity of them, before
we went on the coaft.
On the 27th of Auguft, we arrived in fight of the Schumagins ; and at about
four leagues from the fliore, a great number of canoes came off to us, which we
obferved to be of the (ame conftruftien as thofe of the Fox Ifles; and that the
drefs and manners of the people in them were the fame as the natives of thofe
iflands.
m
tt
It appears that the Ruffians, wherever they are fettled, from fome political
reafon, as we fuppofe, prohibit the natives from keeping canoes of a fizc to carry
B more
f
\f
i>
4^.
INTRaDUCTORY VOYAGE.
more than one perfon. Thcfc canoes are generally about twelve feet in length,,
fliarp at each end, and about twenty inches broad, tapering to a point : their
depth in the center, where the man fits, is about twenty inches. The canoes of
this make extend from the Araits of the two continents along the coaft as far as
Cape Edgccumbe. Some of them are made to carry three perfons ; but,
in general, not more than one or two. The frame is compofed of very thin ftrips
of the pine wood,, faftened together with whale fincws, and is then covered with
the Ikin of the feal or fea-cow, which is previoufly robbed of its hair. The bot-
tom of the ikiu-frock, which the natives wear, ties over the hole of the canoe,
where the man fits, and prevents the fmalleft drop of water from getting in*
Tiiefe veflcls are paddled at a prodigious rate,, and go out in any weather.
' I)
.1 ' / ''
It was now the 28th of Auguft, and no advantage had yet arifen from the
voyage ; but as we fuppofed ourfelves to be at the termination of the Ruffian fet-
tlements,. and had a large track of coafl to run down, we expeiSted to have made
an advantageous trade before the winter fet in, which was now haflrily approach-
ing. With this defign, we purpofed to make one port to the Weftward of Cook's
River,— and, in coafting along, we faw a large opening, which appeared to be
formed by an ifland : we accordingly (leered in for it, — and* when we were in
with it, it appeared of very great extent, taking a North Eafterly courfe. As
we now thought ourfelves clear ©f the Ruffians,, we were in continual expe^a-
tion of being vifited by the natives, and commencing the advantageous part of
our voyage; though we are at a lofs how to reconcile it, that fo Urge a ftrait
fhould not have been obferved by Captain Cook.. Having continued our courfe
up it, about twenty leagues, a canoe came off to us from the Inland fide, witlv
three people in it, one of whom came on board, who proved to be a Ruffiaa
ieaman. — He was^a very intelligent man, and informed us that this was the ifland
of Kodiak, that the crews of three galliots were on duty there, and that there was.
another ifland of the fame name along the coaft.
This
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
ct
This intelligence was by no means pleaHng, as it dafhed at once all our hopes
of obtaining any trade, at any intermediate place, between Cook's River and
the Schumagin Ifles. We therefore continued our pafl'age through the ftraits,
which were named Petrie's Strait, in honour of Wm. Petrie, Efq. and found it
brought us out near that point forming Cook's River, and diftinguilhed by the name
of Cape Douglas on Captain Cook's chart. Thefe (Iraits are upwards often leagues
in length and about fifteen in breadth, and cut ofFa very large traft of continent
from the former charts. We anchored under Cape Douglas, and foon after feveral
canoes came off to us of the River Indians. They fold us two or three otter fkins*
for which they received feme pieces of unwroiight iron, about a pound, perhaps,
for each fkin. They appeared to be greatly rejoiced to fee us, and offered us
every thing they had in their boats as prefents. Tliefe people by^ refufing
tobacco plainly proved that they had no connexion with the Ruffians, and by
frequently pronouncing the word EngliHi, Englifli, it appeared alfo that the
Nootka was not the firft veffel of our country which had been feen by them.
Indeed it afterwards appeared that the King George and Queen Charlotte from
London had been ther« before us. The canoes very fhortly left us to go up
the river in fearch of more (kins, and the following day we faw two large
boats coming down the river, with about eighteen men in each. They proved
to be Ruffians who had been up Cook's River on a trading voyage ; and each boat
had a brafs field-piece with fmall arms for each man. They had left their
fummer refidence which is the lower ifland in Cook's River, and were pro-
ceeding to their winter quarters on the ifland of Kodiak.
i
It was now the 20th of September, and the weather extremely boifterous,
fo that we determined to quit the river, where we had been detained by
feveral heavy gales of wind, and proceed to Prince William's Sound, and, if
prafticabic, to winter there. On our arrival at Snug Corner Cove, in Prince Wil-
liam's Sound, as named by Captain Cook, the weather was very violent, and during
the three days we lay there not a native appeared ; which circumftance led us to
conclude, that the natives had retired from the coaft, or were gone to the South-
B 2 ward
I ;j
I
■ — Ai-
^
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
ward for the winter. In our excurfions on (hore, wc faw fbme wood which had
been fiefli cut, and by an edge tool ; we alfo found a piece of bamboo, which fully
fatisfied us that fome veflel muft have very lately preceded us; and as our appointed
rendezvous, with our confort the Sea Otter, was at this place, we very naturally
concluded that flie had been here, and was failed for China.
. )
'f
fl •'■
This was a fituation pregnant with difficulties : — the coaft was to all ap-
pearance without inhabitants, fo that if we remained here during the winter,
thcic was no profpeft of our being able to procure trade or refreftiments. On the
other hand, the bad weather had fet in, with continual gales of wind, accompanied
with fleet and fnow; and if we quitted our prefcnt fituation, it was very
doubtful whether we fliould be able to make another, and therefore be obliged
to run for the Sandwich Ifles, which would, in all probability, have put an end
to the voyjige, as our feamen were becoming extremely diflatisfied. In this
fituation it was determined to prefer an inhofpitable winter in Prince William's
Sound, to all the comforts of the Sandwich Iflands, from whence, it was with
good reafon imagined, that it would have been a matter of great difficulty, if
not wholly impra£licable, to perfuade the feamen to return to the Coaft o£
America. Under thefe difficulties wc laboured ; but as the objeft of the voyage
and the intereft of the proprietors were deeply concerned in fupporting tha
hardships which threatened us, and the mortifications we fliould experience,,
we refolved to bear the one and to fubmit to the other. A very little reflediou'
on the limited power of a mercantile officer, and the want of a due fubordination.
in a mercantile fliip, will enable any one to believe that in remaining here,
we were not at leaft deficient in zeal for the interefts of thofe who promoted,
and fupported this commercial expedition.
On the 4th day, f.veral canoes, came off to us, and the natives be-
haved in a very friendly, and affiible manner. They mentioned feveral.
Engllfli names, which appeared to be thofe of the crew of the Sea Otter.—
They alfo made us undcrft.md that a veflel, with two marts, had failed from
3 tlicnce
»
1/
i
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
x:ii
thence but a few days before, and that they liad plenty of Ikins, which they
explained to us, by pointing to the number of the hairs of their heads. They
alfo informed us, after their manner, that if we would ftay, they would kill
plenty of otters for U3 during the winter.
Being now fatisfied that the Sound was inhabited, nothing but a good har-
bour was wanting to determine us to ftay here during the fevere feafoi\ ; and
the next day the boats found a very commodious one, about fifteen miles
Eaft North Eaft, from where we lay. Accordingly, on the 7th of O^lober, the
veflel was removed to the place appointed ; (he was then unrij^ged, and the
people began to work on (hore to eredt a log-houfe for the armourers to work
in ; which, from the prefcnt ftate of the veflc), might aUb be ufeful in con-
taining lumber.
The natives now favoured us with their daily vifits, and never failed to
exert their very extraordinary talents in the art of thievery. They would em-
ploy fuch a flight of hand in getting iron materials of any kind, as is
hardly to be conceived. It has often been obferved when the head of a nail
either in the Ihip or boats flood a little without the wood, that they would
apply their teeth in order to pull it out. Indeed, if tlie diitcrent lofles we fuf-
tained, and the manner of them were to be related, many a reader would have
reafon to fufpeft that this page exalted the purloining talents of thefe people,
at the expence of truth.
It was now the middle of Oftober and we had colleifted a few fkins. The
natives alfo affembled in greater numbers, and became fo very troublefome as
to perplex us very much; in regard to the manner in which we fhould conduct our-
felves towards them. Policy and humanity both inftrudlcd us to avoid, if.
polfible, any violent correftives, but it very often happened, that our people
who were employed on (hore in wooding and ereding the houfe, were obliged
to come off to the fhip, as the natives would come down from the woods be.
hind
y
J ^a.
tlv
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
i
hind them, and endeavour to take aw.iy whatever tools they had in ufe.'^-As
the veflel lay fo near the place where the people were at work, that we could
talk to them, we did not allow them fire-arms, unlefs they were accompanied
with a careful officer, left an improper ufe fhould be made of them ; and we
had hitherto found that the firing a mufquet from the fhip would at all
times drive the natives away.
On the 25th of O£lober, a large party of Indians vere perceived coming into
the creek, and as there appeared to be a greater number than we had Teen aflem-
bled before, we called to our people to come on board, and they not coming imme-
diately, the Indians got up a-breafl of the veflel, and immediately landed where
they were at work : — at the fame moment another party joined them from
the woods.— As the natives in the canoes went on fhore in fpite of all our
fignals to prohibit them, two of our guns were ordered to o<.' pointed at them,
which had the defired efle£l ; as they were at this time endeavouring to take
away the axes from our people on fhore. But on perceiving the preparations
we were making, they cried out in their ufual manner, lauU-lauUy or friend,
friend, and extended wide their arms as a token of amity.
n 'I
Having got all our people on board, it was thought to be a proper opportu-
nity to difperfe the natives, who were now afTembled in fuch confiderable
numbers, by fhewing them the power of our cannon, and accordingly a
twelve pound <:<i««o«<»^<f was fired with grape fhot, which difplayed its effedls
upon the water to their extreme aflonifhment, and indeed threw them into
fuch a panic, that one half of them overfet their canoes from fright.—
A three pound field piece was then difcharged from the fhore, with a
round fhot, which grazing along the furface of the water to a confiderable
diflance, convinced them that it was in our power to throw the fhot
to whatever point, and in whatever direftion we thought proper. While they
were deliberating, as it were, in a flate of no common apprehenfion, we made
them underfland that it was not our intention to do them any injury while
they
^^'-
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. x»
they conduced themfelves to us in an honeft and friendly manner, and that it
was our wifh to engage in trade with them, by purchafing their Ikins with
fuch articles as we had got for that propofe. Thefe articles were then offered
to their attention, when, after repeated (houts of joy, fuch as -were drefled in
furs, inftantly ftripped themfelves, and in return for a moderate quantity of
-Jarge fpike nails, we received fixty fine fea<-otter (kins. To conciliate their
friendfliip, the principal men among them were prefented with beads of various
colours, and they promlfcd to bring us ikins as fafl as they could procure them*
This attempt was certainly pre«meditated, as thefe people never make war
upon each other in thofe large boats, which they employ fcJely to carry away
their old men, women, and children, on the approach of an enemy ; and they
are called by them the womens' boats. They now made ufe of them for the
purpofe of landing a great number at once, that they might be certain of
cutting off the retreat of our workmen. But though this fcheme proved
abortive, we had no reafon to fuppofe that they would, or perhaps could rcfift
an opportunity of ftealing any article, of which iron compofed a part, fo
powerful was the temptation that aflumed the form of that favourite metal;
Such, however, was the prefent appearance of our affairs, that we defiftetJ
from carrying on our operations on (hore. We therefore began to cover the
vcflel with fpars, and clofe it in all round the fides, which we got done
above one half from aft, forward ; but the falls of fiiow became fo frequent,
and deep on the fliore, that we were prevented from compleating it, which
was a very great inconvenience ; as the part that was covered always afforded
a place to walk in, as well as prevented a great deal of cold from ftriking
through the deck. It alfo formed a very fufficient fortification had that been ne-
ceffary ; — as we were boarded and netted all round, ten feet above the gunwhale ;
{b that we fliould have been able to have defended ourfelves againft any attack
that could have been made upon us ; though the ice, which was forming all
round us, gave the natives no inconfiderable advantage : but, whatever might be
a : the
I
stf
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
thciiiclhutions of our Hivagc nc'if;libours, the operations of our great gum had
fii'litciicd them into the mofl: amicable demeanour toward! us.
If
I'
il:
On tlic 31ft day of OtSlobcr the thermometer fell to 32, and the morning*
and evenings were very (harp. Till this period, wc had caught a great plenty
of falmon, but we now found they were leaving the fmall rivers. At two
liauls of the feine in a pond, between ihe neighbouring hills, we caught as
many as we could fait for the winter ufc ; and, for our daily confumption, two
men were dilpatched every morning, and in two hours they would bring down
as many as they could carry. The method of taking them may appear rather
ridiculous, but it is managed by following the drain of water from the pond, to
where it emptied itfelf into the lea, and knocking the fWh on the head with
clubs, as tliey were going up or coming down ; and as the channel was not above
a foot in depth, this bufincfs proved good fport to the failors, as well as a fource of
luxurious provifion for the table. The days of plentywerc however drawing nigh to
a conclufion. The ducks and geefe wliich had alfo afforded us a conftant fupply,
were now forming into flocks and pafllng away to the Southward. — The natives
had alfo brought us occafioiialiy fomc of the mountain flieep which were the
only land animals we faw amongft thjm, and we had depended for fomc afllft-
r.nce at Laft from them on the article of provifion during the winter ; — inflead of
which, by the jth of November, not one of the feathered tribe was to be feen,
nor was it pofiiblc to go into the woods, the ground being, at this time, covered
with at leafl five feet of loofe dryfuow. — Tiie fifh had alio left tlie creeks and
coves, and ice began to form everywhere around us. — The Aupendous moun-
tains wliich met our eye on every fide, were now white with fnow to the very
edge of the w;\ter, while the natives had no other means of fiipport but the
whale fifh ami blubUer which th>.y had piopari.'d for their winter provillons. — Hut
fince the 2d of November, the ice, from the veflll to tlie fhore, had been capable
of bearing, and our people had commenced the air.uf'eincnt of Ikaiting and other
diverfions on it, which not only afforded them confiderablc recreation, hut
contributed
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
KvU
contributed greatly to the prefervation of their health, till the fnow became
as deep on the ice as it was on the Ihore.
During the months of November and December wc all enjoyed an excellent
(late of health. — ^The natives alfo continued their friendly behaviour to us,
except in their incorrigible difpofitioii to dealing, which they never failed to
indulge when any opportunity offered, and which the mod attentive vigilance
on our part could not always prevent. The thermometer, during the month
of November, was from 26° to a8°, and in December it fell to 20", where it
continued the greated part of the month.
We had now at noon but a very faint and glimmering light, the meri-
dian fun not being higher than 6°, aiid that obfcured from us by hills 22*
high to the Southward of us. While we were thus locked in, as it were,
from the chearful light of day, and the vivifying warmth of folar rays, — no
other comforts prefented thcmfelves to compenfate, in any degree, for the
fcene of defolation which encircled us. — While tremendous mountains
forbade almod a fight of the Iky, and cait their nofturnal fliadows over
\is in the midd of day, the land was impenetrable from the depth of fnow,
fo that we were excluded from all hopes of any recreation, fupport, or comfort,
during the winter, but what could be found in the d»ip and in ourfclves.— This,
however, was only the beginning of our troubles.
^
( J
The new year fct in with added cold, and was fucccedcd by fome very
heavy falls of fnow, which laded till the middle of the month. Our decks
were now incapable of rcfifting the intenfc freezing of the night, and the lower
parts of them were covered aix jnfli thick with an hoary frod, that had all the
appearance of fnow, notwithdanding three fires were kept condantly burning
twenty hours out of the twenty-four ; fo that when they were fird lighted the
decks were all afloat. For fome time we kept in the fires night and day,
but the fmoke which proceeded from a temporary dove, made out of one of the
C forges
i.l]
XVlll
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
forges, was fo very troublefome, that the people, who were now falHng ill,
were fully convinced that this continual fmoke was the caufe of their
ficknefs. After the heavy fall of fnow we had twelve down with the fcurvy,
and towards the end of the month four died, and the number cncreafed to
twenty -three who were confined to their beds, amongft whom was the furgeon,
who was extremely ill. The firft officer on finding himfelf (lightly affedcd in
the breaft, a fymptom which generally foreboded a fatal determination in a
very few days, got rid of it by continually chewing the young pine branches,
and fvvallowing the juice ; but, from the unpleafant tafte of this medicine,
few of the fick could be prevailed upon to perfift ui taking it. , •
At the latter end of February the diforder had encreafed, and no lefs than
thirty of our people were fo ill tliat none of them had fufficient ftrength to
get out of their hammocks : — four of them died in the courfe of the month.—
Indeed, at this time, our necefTiiries were fo far exhaufted, that if the more
violent fymptoms of the diforder had abated, there was a want of proper food
&c. to complete the cure. Thefe melancholy circumftances were rendered
more afBi(fling by the hopelefs minds of the crew ; for fuch was the general
difcouragement amongft them, that they confidered the flighteft fymptom of the
diforder to be a certain prelude to death.
During the months of January and February the thermometer continued
for the greater part at 15°, though it fometimes fell to 14°. Notwit' (land-
ing this extreme cold, we were vifited as ufual by the natives who had no
other cloathing but their frocks, made of the fkins of fea-otters and fcals,
though chiefly of the latter, with the fur on the outfide But whatever pro-
teftion thefe drefles gave to their bodies, their legs remained uncovered, and
without any apparent inconvenience. — ^They appeared to be as much diftrefled
for provifions as ourfelves, and as we had feveral ca(ks of the whale blubber
which had been colle£ted for oil, they ufed, whenever they came on board,
under a pretence that the weather was too Jboifterous for them to engage ia
whale
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
kix
whale hunting, to entreat a regale of this luxurious article ; which \vas al-
ways granted to their great comfort and fatisfa£tion. — In their opinion it
was owing to our not taking the fame delicious and wholefome nourifhmcnt,
that fuch a terrible and alarming ficknefs prevailed amongft us.
We were at firft very much furprifed at their being informed of the death
of our people, and the places where we had buried them. — They particularly
pointed to the edge of the (hore between the cracks of the ice, where with
confiderable labour we had contrived to dig a (hallow grave for our boatfwain,
who from his piping had attrafted their particular notice and refpedt. — \Vc
indeed, at firft imagined that they contrived to watch thefe melancholy cere-
monies in order to dig up the bodies for a banquet, as we had no doubt but
that they were a canibal tribe. We however foon after difcovered that they
obtained their intelligence from the conftant watch they kept, to prevent any
other bands of natives from coming to trade with us, without giving them a
fliare of their profits, whatever they might be.
As they paid us daily vifits, we at firft: imagined that their place of habitation
was at no very great diftance, though we had never been able to difcover it ; but
we now learnt that they were a vagrant people, without any fixed place of abode,
fleeping where they could, and when they had the inclination; and that they
made no diftin£tion between the night and the day, wandering about as much
during the one as the other.— They never made any fires in the night for fear of
being furprifed by thofe tribes with whom they feemed to be in a continual
ftate of hoftility, and who muft have come acrofn the ice to attack them ; for
as they had no knowledge of the ufe of fnow (hoes, the woods were whollv
tmpalTable.
«»
The month of March brought no alleviation of our diftrefles :— It was as
cold as the months which preceded it. In the early part of it thcie foil a great
deal of fnow, which cncrcafed the number of the fick, and the violence oi ihc
^ * difordcr
XX
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
e
diforder in thofe who were already affli£ted by It. — In the courfc of this month
we had the melancholy office of performing the laft im perfect obfequles to the
remains of the furgeon and the pilot. Thcfe were heavy misfortunes, and
the lofs of the former, at a moment when medical knowledge was fo neceffary,
muft be confidered by all who read this pngc, as a confummate afflidlion.
The firft officer fiiuling a return of his complaint, applied to the fame means
of relief which had before been fo fuccefsful, — exercife and the juice of the
pine tree. — lie made a deco£lion of the latter which was extremely naufeous,
and very difficult, though very much diluted, to keep on the ftomach : — it
operated repeatedly as an emetic, before it became a progreffive remedy :—
and perhaps this very effect, by cleanfing the ftomach, aided the future falutary
operations of this antl-fcorbutic medicine. The fecond officer and one or two
of the feamen perfifting in the fame regimen, found fimilar benefit, and were
recovered from a very reduced ftate ; but it is one of the unfortunate fymptoms
of this melancholy diforder, to be averfe to motion, and to find pain bordering
on anguilh, in attempting '^o ufe that exercife which is the predominant remedy.
Having loft our furgeon, we were now deprived of all medical aid.— Every
advantage the fick could receive from the moft tender and vigilant attention,
they received from myfelf, the firft officer and a feaman, who were yet In a
ftate to do them that fervice. But ftill we continued to fee and lament a gra-
dual diminution of our crew from this terrible diforder. Too often did I find
myfelf called to aflift in performing the dreadful office, of dragging the
dead bodies acrofs the Ice» to a ftiallow fepulchre which our own hands had
hewn out for them on the fliore. The fledge on which we fetched the wood
was their hearfe, and the chafms in the ice their grave :^But thele Im-
perfetft rites were attended with that fincerity of grief which does not always
follow the gorgeous array of funeral pride to fepulchral domes. Indeed, the only
happinefs ; or, to exprefs myfelf with more accuracy, the only alleviation of
our wretcheduefs was when we cotild ablent ourfelves from the veflel, and get
3 . away
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
xxr
•way from hearing the groans of our afflided people, in order to find relief
in a folitary review of our forlorn fituation. All our cordial provifions had
long been exhaufted ; — we had nothing to ftrengthen and fupport the fick but
bifcuit, rice, and a fmall quantity of flour, but no kind of fugar or wine to
give with them. Of fi\lt beef and pork there was no deficiency ; but, even if
it had been a proper food, the averfion of the people to tlie very fight of ir,
would have prevented its falutary cftetSls. Fi(h or fowl was not an offer-
ing of the winter here. A crow or a fea-gull were rare dL-licacies, and an
eagle, one or two of which we killed, when they feemed to be hovering about,
as if they would feed upon us, inftead of furnifhing us with food, was a feaft
indeed. — Our two goats, a male and female of the fame age, and who had
been our companions throughout the voyage, were at length relu£lantly killed,
and ferved the fick, with broth, &c. made of their flelh, for fourteen days.
"li
Though we were at the latter end of March, there was, as yet, no change
in the weather; — the cold ftlU continued its inhofpitable feverity ; — we now,
however, began to derive fome hopes from feeing the fun, which had been fo
long obfcurcd from us, juft peep at noon over the fummits of the moun-
tains. The thermometer had, during this month, been for the moft part at 15°
r id 16°, though it had fometimes rifeu to ly".
The early part of the month of April was very frofty, with violent winds.
Towards the middle of it, we had fomc very Iieavy Southerly gales, which
produce the fummer in thefe high latitudes, as the Northerly ones prevail
throughout the winter. The change of wind produced, as may be fuppofed, a
fenfible alteration in the air ; but it brought heavy fhowers of fnow, and did not
become ftationary ; fo that with the return of the North wind, it became as cold
as ever. In fhort, during the latter part of this month there was a continual
combat of thefe oppofing winds, which were the more difagreeablc, as it oc-
cafioned thick and hazy weather. While the South wind prevailed, the fick
people grew worfe, and iu the courfe of this month, four Europeans and three
J^afcars
%\
fi
li
i
skU
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGf.
Lafcars died. The fecoiid officer and the feaman who entered upon the pine
juice regimen, were now fo far recovered as to get upon deck to receive the
fliort but welcome vifit of the fun. This circumftance induced many of the
fick men to apply to the decodlion, and fome of them were perfuadcd to con-
tinue it ; but, in general, it was negleded, with a determination to die at their
eafe, (according to their manner of expreflion) rather than be tormented by fuch
a naufeous and torturing remedy. .
Towards the end of the month, in the mid-day fun, the thermometer raifed
to 32°, biit at night it fell below the freezing point to 27". During the laft
three ^ays in this montli, the natives brought us fome herring and fea-fowl.
The fi(h, I myfelf dlftributed to the fick, and no words can exprefs the eager
joy which animated their haggard countenances on receiving fuch a comforta-
ble and refrefhing meal:' — and every encouragement was, of courfe, given to the
•natives to procure a conftant fupply of this ftrengthening food.
Thefe people now began to confole us with an aflurance that the cold
would foon be gone. They had, indeed, always made us underftand, that
the fummer would commence about the middle of May, by counting the
number of moons. The fun now began to make a large circle over the hills,
and at midday it war exceedingly reviving. The fupplies offifh were alio
frequent, and we began to feel hopes, that the remaining part of us would
get out of this dcfolate abode, and return again to our country. Thefe cir-
cumftances gave fuch a turn to the fpirits of the people, that many of them
confentcd to be brought upon deck to feel the rays of the fun, who fainted
when they approached the air. It is very fingular that many of them who
preferved aftoiiifhing fpirits, and would fay or do any thing, who appeared
in fliort, as if they were free from all diforder, while they were in bed, would
from the moft trifling motion, or only touching the fide of their hammocks, be
liyrowu iuto fuch agonizing pains, and fucceffive faintiujgs, that every moment
might
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
XXIU
might be fuppofed to be their laft. Iii this ftate they would remain for near
half an Rour, before they recovered. ■: .
By the 6th of May, there was an aftonifhing change in every thing around
vik ; the feamen who had not been very much reduced, recovered miraculouny,
from drinking the decoftion. We had now as much fifli as we could eat,
with a great variety of fea-fovvl, with which the natives dally provided us. —
We had alfo feen feveral flights of geefe and ducks pafs over us, but none
had as yet come within our reach.
On the 17th, a company of the natives, with the King of the Sound,
named Shenoway, came on board with great form, to congratulate us on the
return of fummer. — They alfo informed us that they had feen two veflels
at fea, an article of intelligence which we fcarce knew how to believe, though
it was confirmed by the fimilar and fubfequent mformation of others of the
natives ; but, on the rpth, this doubtful account was verified by the arrival of
two canoes conducing a boat, in which was Captain Dixon of the Queen
Charlotte from London, which, with her confoit the King George, Captain
Portlock, he had left at Montagu Ifle, to come in quefl of us, on the informa-
tion of the Indians.
If all the circumftances are confidered, — this mufl be mentioned as a mofl ex-
trao. binary meeting; and when the horrid iituatiou of the Nootka and her crew
i'j called into refleftion, their ficknefs and their forrow, — their defolate fituation
fo long continued, — and the chilling apprehenfions that, from the ftate of the
crew and the ftate of the ftilp, even when the weather relaxed, and the feafon
became favourable, they might not poflefs the means of quitting it ;--when
all thefe items of misfortune are brought to one aggregate of evil, it is not a
matter of furprife that Captain Dixon fhould be welcomed as a guardian an^^el
with tears of joy. Nor ftiall I deny that we received confide table affiftance
and fervice from Captain Portlock, whofe embaflador he was— And h:re I
Hiouia
1,
xx5y
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
ihould have concluded this part of my fubjeA ; but as the latter gentleman
in the account of his voyage, has thought proper to reprefent himfelf as pof-
fcfllng the virtues of a Samaritan, and that he exercifed them all upon me,
I have thought proper to ftatc the hiftory of his] conduft with all the ne-
ccffiry vouchers, that the public may be in poffeflion of the truth, and be
enabled to judge of the extent of the obligations I owe to the juftice, the libe-
rality, and the humanity of Captain Portlock*.
By the 12th of May, the meridian fun became very powerful, and the
Southerly winds being fet in, the air was foft and pleafant. The thermo-
meter during the day and in the (hade flood at 40", though at night it fell to
the
i
* In May, 1787, Captain A. Portlock arrived in the King George in an hi)rbo(ir in Prinre William's Sound, as did
the Queen CliarlottCjC.iptain Dixon, who was difiiatrhcd with the boats on a trading trip, and arrived in Snug Corner
Cove, with the long-boat of the King George and two wliale boats. They were informed by the natives, that a veflel
was at anchor near tliem, which they underflood to be the Nootka, Captain Meares. On this intcUigence, Captain
Dixon was conducted by the natives, and arrived on board the Noutka late in the evening.
When ourmutnal Airprife was in fomc mcafiire abated, Captain Oixon was informed by me of my condition, and the
misfortimcs w hich we had encountered. To » hicli he replied, that it only lay in Captain Portlock's power to lend
lis the alliftancc lie faw we fo nnich wanted, and that he propofcd to depart very early in the morning to the (hips,
>vhich were dillant near 20 leai^iics : he alio added he was certain that Captj'n Portlock would put to fca imuicdiately on
Jiis hearing this intelligence of iis.
I made Captain Dixon fenfibie of our fitiiation, and that I had no boat cap.nblc of proceeding dow n to the (hips ; I
therefore rcqneficd to know if he would give me a palTagc, in order that I might lay before Captain Portliick the hillory of
cur tlilireires; but Cii'iaifi Dixon very hontdly informed me, that though he would inoliairuredly arcounnodate 'ne with
a pafTagc, yet he did net think that Captain Portlock would fend up a beat in return. I then confidercd, that, if 1 went
dow n, and the Ibips (liquid nevorihclcfs fail, leaving me to get back as 1 could, I fhould be in a ftiitc ol the mod accii-
mulafcd misfortune .---and, though my going down would have been fonie tie on Captain Portlock to fend me back to
my fliip in one of his boats, yet the didancc between us being fo great, it would take up fome d.iys of his time, which
might be to the detriment of his voyage : I therefore, on this confidenition, w aved going, and infiantly wrote to Captain
I'ortlo.k by Captain Dixon. (No I.)
A few hour.! after tl\e departtiie of Captain Dixon, it occuned to m?, that if we could podibly launch the longboat,
and proceed to the Ihip, it might be the moans of Iccuring fnmc alliltance previous to their departure.
The hull of the boat, indeed, was deplorable, — for when we launched her it was with difficviliy tint wc could keep
Iter afloat; ncver'.hclefs, I embarked in her (aicomp.inied by the firll officer and five men) the fame evening. I took
with me two cafks of rum, and fevcral bags of rice, to exchange for fomc gin, and a little fugar and tlieefe ; all w Inch,
Captain Dixon informed inc, they had in abtuidjiice.
Fortunately we had fine weather; and arrived at the (hip about three o'clock the followin* evening, jud before
the corr.mencement of a gale of wind. When wc got along-fide the King George, the boat was half full of water j
,and Uic carpenter could not avoid cxpieHIng his aAonilliincnt, tliat we liad ventured l'uc!i u didaiice in her.
Captaia
,<£!!.,
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxt
the freezing point, and fpread a thin ice over what had thawed in the day.
The main body of ice, however, by which we were fuiroundcd, began to
loofen from the fliore, where it was broken by the tide, which riles and
fidls eighteen feet, while the drain of the thaw in the country drove the
pieces of ice out to fea. The veflel now fwung to her anchors, tlie ice having
thawed from around her : — Our fick were recovering very fail:, though two
of them baffled the return of tlie fun, and, in fpite of our iitmoft attentions,
added to the number of thofe whom fixte had ordained to take their laft
fleep on this horrid fliore.— The face of the country, however, was ftill
covered with fnow, and no vegetable produ(5lion was yet attainable but the
pine tops; that the fternefs of winter had deigned to fpare us, and wliich
proved an efficacious remedy to thofe who perfifted in the ufe of them.
D On
CaptHiii Portlock received us with great politcnefs ; and we found that Captsiii Dixon liad arrived but a few hours
before us. As foon as we liad refrclliod ourfclvi's, I explained to Captain PortlucU the nature of my ciraad, — which lie
lieard, and faid he would confult Captain Dixon on the fubjec^. I then proceeded, to give him, without refcrve, fudi
information relative to tht! various expeditions on the Coifi, tlicir views, the probable time of their arrivals, fc*- , ISf.
wliicli inurt have been invaluable to him, from his utter ignorance of any other Ihips. 1 gave him this information from
pure commifcration for the hitherto unfortunate events of hii voyage, and to guide him in his future procieiings: — In
lliort, I comnmnicated every thing in my power.
In a little time Captain Portlock, in the prcfencc of Captain Dixon, informed nie, that it was entirely out of his power
<o allili mc with men : — this they did, 1 fancy, to enhance the value of the favour ; for on my prcding th«t part of my re-
<iuert with great carncdncfs, and urging that common humanity obliged them, and what they would expect were they
in my fit'iation ; they confentcd to give me two men, one from eacli vcirdi but nquired a frelli leprefenlation by letter,
which 1 wrote tliem, (No. II.) Two ieamcn were tlien called in, an !, I luppoie out of delicacy, the Captains left the
cibin. T hcfe men i-ilormeil me, that they would go with me on tlic term.? of I'onr Pounds per month, and one Otter-
fkin e.ich. Itapp'-.ired to be needlcfs to argue withthcni,— 1 was at their mercy, — and thcrcl'orc dofed the agreement,
except the demand of the ottt.r-lkin, v. iliiout much hefitation, thougli tlicy had but '1 hlrty Shillings per month on hoard
the l.uropea" iiiips. I indeed thought, that Captain I'&rtluck m ght have interfered, in I'onicdegrcc, to regulate thi«
matter n-.ore tc my advantage. The agreement was immediately made in writing, duly figned and fealed, between
juyielfand tlicl'e fcauicn; and Cjp/a,';; I'ortlock lias a fu\fcr'ihing ITiliir/'t.
In return fur the tvocaflis of rum, of 50 gallons each, and 11 bags of rice <if about ^colb. I received 6 gallons of
brandy, ■■ of gin, two ca:ks of Hour, of 20 gallons each, 10 galloni> of nieialTes, and fix loaves of Knglifli lui',.ir.
The fame evcnli.g, at my reij'.xli. Captain Portlock ordered his carpenter to caulk my long-boat's bottom, fo that
llie was rendered fit for my rt urn.
During thofe acls of mutviaUiviliiy, I really thought niyftif iiuich indebted to Captain Portlo.k; and in return
offeied him fuch ar.iclcs as 1 could Ip.ire; fu Ji as ruin, rice, and a new cable of 13 inches (Kurope;) but he declined
receiving any of ihefc, not bcii^g in want of ll.em. In the eveuing of this day I bid him adieu ; and arrived fafe on
board tlie Nuotka with the two Icaincn.
A few
-i
XXVI
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
!i
On the 1 7th of May, a general dtflblutlon took place throughout the Cove,
and when we once again found ourfelves in clear water, the hopes of leaving
this fcene of fo much diArefs and horror, cheered our languid minds with
inexprcffible comfort.
The number of natives which we faw, did not exceed five or fix hun-
dred.— They are a ftrong, raw-boned race of people, and in fize rather ex-
ceeding the common ftature of Europeans. They have no town, village, or
fixed place of abode, but are continually wandering up and down the Sound, as
fancy leads or neceflity impels them, confidering the whole of that territory as
fubjeft to them, and fuffering no other tribe to enter whom they have Arength
fufficient to keep out, without paying them a tribute for that privilege. When,
however,
A few days afterwards, I was furprifed to fee C»';tain Portlock's two boats enter the Cove ; they brought me the foU
lowing 'elter from that gentleman.
Cape Hichinbrokc, ok board the King George,
May 1 9/A, 1787.
DEAR SIR,
I HOPE by the time you receive this you will be clear of the ice, the remains of your crew
•n the recovering hand, and your veni-I in a (late of quitting the Soimd, wliicli I think cannot be done loo foon, as on
quitting the coaft, by a fhort run you may be amongft the Sandwicli Idands, where every refrefliment may be liad for
putting your (hip's company in a proper (late for proceeding towards Cliina; where, at a proper fcafon, hope to fee you
in good health.
1 think it wason thefecond day after you left usthatwe failed from Port Rofe, Montague Idand; and, after round-
ing the Eaft end of the faid illand, (Iretched over for this place, (vhere I lay much expofcd ; but, at all events, mean
to remain until the return of my long-boat from Cook's River, and the coaft tending that way ; to which place I dif-
patched her the day afteryou left us, and expert her in about one month.
Captain Dixon took his leave of me o(f the Cape, bound to the Southward towards King George's Sound, with direc-
tions to t«»uch at every port he could make along the coaft, and try what may be done on his way there; and as the wea-
ther fince his departure hath been favourable, I hope he will make a goo4 hand of it.
I remember before you left us to liave heard you fay, that you had an abundance of tratle of every kind remaining :
and now, my good friend, I think, in. your prefent (ituation, that trade cannot, at leaft that it ought not, to be your
objeiJt. I niuft beg that you would fpare me a part of it. The articles ^wi(h you to fpare are beads of diflcient kinds,
particularly the fmall green and yellow fort, and of tlicm as much as pulTible ; iron unwrought, and your fpait an-
vil, you may remember that I mentioned my want of pepiier and a compafs.
I hope to fee you as you pafs through the Sound : and remain, with efteem,
Your's finterely,
Catt. J 0 h n M e a r e s, Srnnu Nooiia, N A T H'' P O R T I. O C K.
Suibcrland Cove, Frinct WiUiam'i Smid,
• 1 wrote-
1/
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE/
xxvil
however, they are intruded upon by a more powerful nation, which fometimes
happens, they retreat to certain rocks which are inacceflible but by a ladder
that is drawn up after them, and even their canoes, which arc of a very light
conftru£lion, are hauled up with them.
They have a King whofe name was Sheenoway ; he was a very old mnu
and almoft blind.— When he firft vifited us in the preceding autumn, he
brought with him three women, whom he called his wives, and were accord-
ingly treated with a fuitable attention, being prefented with fuch articles as
appeared to be moft agreeable to them ; but they would not fufFer the uioft diftant
familiarity from any of us. Thefe and three or four others were the only women
we faw amongft them.— We wiflied very much to get one of their boys to live
D z with
I wrote him by return of the boats, (No. III.) I hefitated not a moment in complying with the purport of his letter ;
and as I could not get at the articles of tr.nde, they being (lowed in the hold, I fent whut I had at hand, viz. the- com-
paft, fome pepper, a few bags of rice, 400 or 50olb. each, and feveral other articles which I thought he wanted, though
lie did not pay by any means an adequate attention to my wants by his boats.
The Nootka in fourteen or fifteen days was ready for fea : we therefore failed out of tl\e Cove, where we had been fo
long imprifoned, and anchored the next evening in Port Etches, where the King George was alfo at aiiclwr. I agairj
met Captain Portlock with every civility.
A few days after my arrival, as we were converfing in a friendly manner onboard Iiit own fliip, 1 was much furprifcd
at his putting into my hand the follow ing letter.
Kino George, Port Ktciiesj
June gih, 17S7.
CAFTAIN MEARtS,
AT the time I fparcd you Thomas Dixon and George V.'illis, to alllil in iiavijjjiiing
the Nootka to China, I had thoughts of quitting this Sound, and procecdin,:; to other parts of the coarts ; tlicrcfoii: voiir
flay in the Sound, and carrying on a trade with the natives, could not, in any material degree, alfecl me. I therefore
propofed to you no conditions refpefting trade, in confideration of that afliftancc, which, if i had done, I am pretty cer-
tain you would very readily have complied with. Since that period I have ha J good reafun for adopting another plan, a
part of which is to remain in the Sound, and purclufe every lV.in, of every kind, that rjme in my way ; and a.s vour
remaining in the Sound and trading murt, of courle, flop a confider.ible part of t!ie trade that 1 might get, I fiml mvfelf
in duty bound, on account of my employers intercUs, to propofc the followlnj; ciinditions, — which. If \ouiuoulJ ivijb to
ketp the aJJUftance I bavt alreaJy lent, you will find it necefaiy to comply nx'iih. ["lie Conditions are thele, — Tlmt>:» L'md
ynurfelfin a Bond tf five hundred pounds, >' that no trade be c;irritd on for li^in;. ni any kind by yourffh', ur aiu' of vour
crew, during your (lay in the Sound this feafon, and that you let lae have twcn'y bara of iron, ..m' .. ur tuvds."
On thefe, and only thefe Conditions, _>'»« keep tuhat ajfiflance 1 have nlnajy lent, .tm.' r.\eive it fa/ othrr alfijian.e I have
inmy potveria afftrdyou: at the fame time 1 mull alfiire you, th.it was I m your C.iuatioii 1 (hmild not hcliwtc a moment
tin complying with the terms propofed. You have made a gooJ iiuul.al'c, — I have niinj 10 nuke, ^'ou have more trade
han you can pofTibly difpofe of,— I have mine to make.
3 N A T H ■•• 1' O R T L O C K.
I
if!
XXTl'lI
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
tvlth us, In order to obtain fome knowledge of their language and manners ; this
propofition, however, they conftantly refufcd ; but on condition that we fliould
leave one of our people with them. Indeed the King himfelf alw;iys hefitatcd to
come on board, unlefij one of our feamcn remained in the canoe during his vifit.
Some time In October, 1786, his Majcfty brought us a young woman and
offered her for fale ; and (he was accordingly bought for an axe and a fmall
quantity of glafs beads. Wc at firft thought that fhe was one of his own
women, but (he foon made us underftand that (he was a captive, and had been
taken with a party of her tribe, who had been killed and eaten, which
was the general lot of all prifoncrs taken In war. She alone had been prefcrvcd
to wait upon the Royal ladies, who were now tired, or peihaps jealous of her
fervices.
M
1,
\
A rcquifition fo illilieral called fortli all my aftonilliment ; and it was w ith difiiculty I roiild fiifprcfs llie indignation
I naturally ftlt, at the flumct'iil adv,intage he proporcd to take of my lielplcfs (itiiafion. lloHCvcr, for what co\ild I do )
Impelled by cruel nccelTity, 1 agreed to thde hard conditiiuis, wiili a provifo, that lie gave me his honour to let
me have another man from him, and the probability of a boy j and as lie informed me that he had a quantity of porter
•n board for the Japan nurket, and other arlitles, fuch as fugar, chocolate, &'c. that he would let me have as miirh of
thofe articles as I wanted, at the Canton price, as he did not mean to go to Jaj an : — all thJs he alTui cd me that he would
comply with :— in return, I pledged my honour not lo trailc, or permit my people ;— lheb«ids and iroh were aceordingly
fent liim. Before 1 finilhed my vifit, he fixed the next day to fend the man, perhaps tl.e boy, and rertaiidy ilic porter,
which to us would have been an invaluable arquilition, on account of our fcorbutic lubils of body, and liaving nothing
but falted beef to exili on down to the il1;^nds, the very idea of which we naufeated.
1 he next day his carpenter came onboard, wlio began to caulk the deck, and examine the pumps. Captain Portlock
employed a'fo fome of his people to brew beer and cut wood for us.
Captain Portluck had done all this with (o many profellioni, that it was all for the good oi his owners, and appeared
fo friendly to me, that I really was deceived by him.
His carpenter w hen caulking part of our deck had iifed about fifty pounds of oakum of his own, wc having none of
Ibat article, or men to pick it ; — to replace this, I fent on board feveral lengths of an old cable, about 1 1 fathoms, when
one of Captain Porilock's people caine on board with a meflPage that he wanted ao fathoms of cable more, to replace the
oakum : furprifed at this declaration, I fent my firft officer on board, to explain to Captain Portlock that I really had no
more junk or old cable in the ftiip, and that if he perlilled in his demand, I muft ruin a cable to comply with it, and that
I thought what he had already received w<u a full equivalent. Seon after I received from Captain Portlock the following
letter.
di:aksix,
I SHOULD be glad if you would fend me the other eight bars of fquare iron to
iti.-iVp up the number we had agreed on; if you have not fijuarc iron at hand I mult make flat iron do; but I believe
you liave fulTicient of cither fort, eafdy to be got at. One of the twelve bars that I have received, my armourer has
ukd in lengthening your^ pump- ff cars, and fitting tlic bo.xei ; tlierefore I may fay t!ie number received, inllead of
twenty
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
XXig
Icrvlces. She remained with us near four months, and appeared to be very
contented with her condition. She had informed us tliat (he belonged to a tribe
who lived to the Southward, and it was our intention to have coafted it along
the cnfuing fummer, in qucft of furs, and reftored her to her own people, had
not the diftrcfles which have been already related prevented us from purfuing
any defign of that nature. With what truth we know not, but (he always
reprefcnted the natives of the Sound, as the moft favage of any inhabitants of
the Coa(V, and continually repeated, that it was the fear of our great guns alone,
which prevented them from killing and devouring us.
During the Intenfe froft in January and February, we were vifited by fome
intermediate tribes, who lived in the neighbourhood of her people, by whom
(he
twenty, is only eleven. In confcqncncc of wliat palll-d yederd.iy between us, rcrrcOIng tlie junk, I fent my boatfw ain
on boiint, and cxpciU'il lie would liave received about fifteen fathoms ; he was ottered five or fix, which quantity lie did
not bring on board, as I had told him what I thought he would receive. You niiift conlider the wade there is in picking
oakum ; befides the employment of my people, whofc labour lliouKI, had it not been on your account, turned to the
advantage of my own (hip, in a trading expedition up the bound ; but, lu it is^ all hands mud turn too fur fimc da\»,
and pick oakum, ready for my carpenter to bepin caulking the fliip inuneJiatcly on finifliinjj with you ; therefore the lol's
of time I have furtained is of more confequence to my owners than 1 iliould fiipi>ofe even tlfty failioms of junk would be
to yotir's Difpatch this boat ai quick at you can, and ibe ttinl man is getting liimfelf ready for you. 1 hope you
are »cll litis morning, Qfc.
1 am, dear Sir,
Vour's fincerely,
N. P O R T L O C K,
I then Tent the cable, which contained twenty times the quantity 1 had received from him.
Captain Portlock alfo defired me to lend hiin fix flands of arms, fome brafs mulketoens, and the anvil, until we met
in China, which I immediately fent on board.
However, day after day he deferred fending the man, boy, or porter, or, indeed, fulfilling the remainder of his
agreement j — and thus matters relied till we were ready for fea :— 1 then requelled Mr. UoUings to go on board, and en-
deavour to make Captain Portlock comply with his agreement, and fave his honour; when, to my utter afloiilflnnent
Mr. HoUings returned with the following anfwer:— " that he would fpare me ao dozen of porter, and lo gallons of
" gin, for a new European ij inch cable; (which coll in Bengal near loo/.) that he could not fpare the man, but
" would give mean old 9 inch hawfur, of 8o fathoms." I naturally r^je^ed this offer with indignatisn, the articles
being by no means of equal value, and as he refufed to fulfil his part of the agreement between us. I told him, however,
in the prefcncc of .Mr. Ilo'.linf^s, that if he was in dillrefs fora cable, I would fpare him one, at the rate that the ownert
bought it, but on no otlier terms, asl liad no orders to cat or drink away tlie property of the Hiip.
I then
rii:
XXiC
INTRODUCTORY VOYAOE.
fhe fent invitations to them to come to us ; to which we added prcLnts of beads
as an encouragement to receive a vilit from them ; and within a few days of the
time, when flic mentioned her expcdation of their arrival, fome of them came
in three finglc canoes, and brought a fmall quantity of (kins. She earneftly
rcquefled permiOion to depart with them, but as wc cxpc£lcd to derive fome
advantage from her information in the fummcr, her dcfire was not granted.
While, however, our people were gone down to brc'akfifl:, (he contrived to
get to the canoes, and wc faw her no more. At tlic time the girl left us, the
fcurvy was not arrived to the cruel heiglit which it afterwards attained.^
Neveithclcfs (hs made us fcnfible that the fame difordcr prevailed in her nation,
and that whenever the fymptoms appeared, they removed to the South-
ward where the climate was more genial, and where plenty of fifli was to
be obtained, which never failed to prove the means of their recovery.
The
i
lH
)'i
I then obferved to him, that if he had no regard to liii hnnoiir, yet it would appear but common iiiimanity to fpare
MS fuch articles us would tend to keep tliis dcHruflive diforder under, until we (huuld arrive at the Sandwich ((lands.
I reprefrntcd, that it was againll liis own and owners intereR to keep an article of this kind fur the China market, when
he had had an ofl'or of the highell price ever giren at Canton for articles of the like nature.
On no other terms could I procure the porter, and other little articles, but, as I have mentioned before, for the new
cable, which I rejciSled i and in confequence of my rcfufal to comply with his exorbitant and difhonourable demands,
Captain Portlock refui'ed the two men and the boy, withdrew his carpenter, and in other private points was guilty of
the mod iniproi'cr condu'h V hen he recalled liis carpenter, this fellow declared to Captain Portlock, that
our fliip was not in a (late of faloty; her feams being open every where, and the pumps not finiflied. For what
he had done, (lis-) caulkin,; two lieums fore and aft. Captain Portlock permitted him to charge (ixty dollars, which I
rctufed, aud ai;iecd with him for forty dollars, or ten pounds, which was paid him by Mr. Cox at Canton. Captain
I'ortlofk received the money.
On the I Sth of June, 1 received another letter as foUews.
King G'f.o«op, Port Etche«, NiAH CAPEHiKCHivBuOKi,
Prince William's Sovnd, 5'"'" '*» '1^7-
c a pta 1 n m c a r es,
I HAVE had very recent, good rcafon to think that, after you have quitted thii
Sound, you mean to put info fome ports on the coall of .-Xmcrica, t(i carry on a trading ftheme; now. Sir, you will
recoUcifl, that, in your reprefentation to me of your diliicired litiiation, the navigating your velfel from this to the
Sandwich Klands, anJ from thence to China, in fafety, was what you gave me to undcrftand as your only wi(h.
If til. 5 i^ really your intention, as a man of honour you cannot rehife giving nr a fecurity that you will leave the coafl
immtdiaiely on your quilting this £oimd, and purfuiiig tliat route.— In conlcquencc of your letter 1 iiave granted you
two
«-!
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
XXXI
The natives of the Sound, of cither fcx, keep tlitir hair ratlicr fliort ;— but
of the fame length before as behind : indeed their faces are generally {o
covered with it, that they are obliged to be continually fcparatlng it, in ord>;r
to fee before them. — The men have univerfally a (lit in their luultr lip, be-
tween the projecting part of the lip and the chin, which i* cut p.irallcl with
their mouths, and has the appearance of another mouth. The boys have two,
three, or four holes, where the flit is in the men, wliich is perhaps the cUftinc-
tivc mark of manhood. The women have the fame apertures ai the boys, with
pieces of Ihell fixed in them refembling teeth.
Both fcxes have the fcptum of the nofe perforated, in which tliey generally
wear a large quill or a piece of the bark of a tree. Their beards which,
however, are common but in perfons advanced in years, arc on the upper lip,
and
two ef tlic bert men from the King George, .but you may be well alTiireJ it was not to enalile you to trade along the
read.
Mr. CietTclman has the paper with him, which you cannot refufe to (ign.provlJcJyou mean to proceed as you declared
you intended to do.
I am, Sir,
Your obedient, rmniblc- Servant,
N AT H i^' P O R T LOCK.
\o» will pleafe to be fpeedy in your determination, that I may, in cafe you do not chufe to comply, in giving me the
fectirity I have alked, return you the articles I have received, and take my people on board a^ain.
I need not comment on this tranfai5lion. I was obliged to fubmit ; and I accordingly Hgned the Bend, of which
1 here give an exacl copy ;^
C 0 P r OF THE BOND.
Shi'p King George, Port Etchei,
yu/ie liii, 1787.
B( IT KNOWN UNTO ALL MsN, That the under-written mutual Agreement and Obligation was this day
entered into and agreed upon between A. Portlotk, commander of the King George, from Krglaiid, on the
one part, and John Mearcs, commander of the Ihow Nootka, from Bengal, on the otlicr part, under the
pains and forfeitures as under-mentioned : —
Whereas the above-mentioned John Meares, in wintering on the New Coaft of America, unfortunately loft the
grealcft part of his (hip's company, and was reduced to the greateft diftrefs, not being able to navigate his
velfel to ChinA. In confcquence of the diftrefled fitualion, as reprcfented by the faid John Mearci to the faid
A. Portlock,
!^
"S-
'".
xxxii
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
and about the extremity of the chip, whicli in the winter is generally frofteJ
with icicles. — The younger part of them, as we imagine, pull it out as it
appears. — They have high cheek bones, and round flat faces, with fmall black
eyes and jetty hair. — Their afpetfl is wild and favage, and their ears are full
of holes, from which hang pendants of bone or (hell. They ufe a red kind
of paint, with which they befmear their necks and faces ; but after the death
of friends or relation?, \t is changed into black. Their hair is almoft covered
with the down of birds. Their cloathing confifts of a fmgle frock, made of
the fca-otter fkin, which hangs down to their knees and leaves their legs bare.
The drefs they ufe in their canoes, is made of the guts of the whale, which
covers their heads, and the lower part being tied round the hole in which
they fit, prevents the water from getting into the canoe, and at the Time time
keeps them warm and dry. This indeed may be confidered as their principal
drefs, as they pafs the far greater part of their time in the canoes.
There
A. Portlock, commanding the King George, tlie U\A A. Porriock promifed an i agreed to afllft the faid John
Meares, by lending liim two able lisamAi to enable him to profecute liis voyage to China, on Condition
That the faid John Meares fliall, on his leaving Prince William's Sound, «here he now is, immediately
proceed to Canton, and not on any account whatfoevcr (excejit drove by necedity or accident) meet with, or
continue to trade or barter with the natives of any part of tlic faid coaft, (ic. for otter- Hins, or any other lurs,
the produce of the faid coafts, on pain of forfeiting the fiim of icoo/. of good and lawful money of Great Br:-
• t.r.n, to the faid A. Portlock, his I.cirt, executors, and alligns, for the life of ijie Proprietors of the If.d fliip
Kill;; Geoi'ge.
In witncfs whereof we luve hereimto fiibfcribed our hands the day and year above-mentioned.
As I had good rtafoB to apprehend further deinands frotii the illiberal and fordid fpirit <if Captain Portlock, I prepared
immediately to put to fca; but, before I could effeiil my purpofc, the fame officer who had brought me the bond came
on board once more, with a peremptory demand that the two men, whom I had received on my firft interview with
Captain Portlock, fliould be returned to the King George. On beijig informed that Captain Portlock determined to keep
the bond, as well as the articles with wliich 1 may be faid to have very dearly purchafed thefe men, I refufcd to let them
gjo; — when I was informed, that force would be employed to compel my lubmillion to the demand lie brought. My
anfwcr to this menace was. That as I had t'ulfilled every cng.igement on my part, I fliould infill on my rght to the ni"i; ;
and tliat if Captain Portlock, w hom 1 defcribed in the mort decided and unequivocal terms, (lumld make any attempt on
the lliip, I was determined to npel force by foice. — On this the ollicer departed ; and inabouth;Uf an hourirtiirned, wiili
a mell'age from his Captain that I might keep the mea ; but w ithout accompanying it with any apology for hit conduit.
W hen the veflfel was under fail, Captain Portlock thought proper to fend me a S«ndwich Ifland cap and cloak u a pre-
fent i which I returned.
Such
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
XXXlll
There are to be found here all the difFerent kinds of firs which grow on
the other fide of America. — There is alfo fnake root and ginfeng, fome of
which the natives have always with them as a medicine, though we never
r<y lid procure any quantity of it.
The woods arc thick and fpread over about two-thirds of the afcent of
the mountains, which terminate in huge maiTes of naked rock. The black
pine, which grows in great plenty, is capable of making excellent fpars.
We faw alfo a few black currant buthes when we entered the Sound in Sep-
tember, but no other kind of fruit or any fpecies of vegetable. At that time,
indeed, the high grounds were covered with fnow, and the lowlands were
an entire fwamp from the ftreams of melted fnow which flowed from above.
E The
Such was the conduct of Captain Portlock. To obferve upon it would unnfcelTarily lengthen an article, already
too long. Every one is capable of determining upon the tendernefs or the cruelty of this man's demeanour to me.
W hcther it demands detellation or praife, is left to the judgment of thofe who read the pages which contain this faithful
and unexaggerated account of it.
Tie Letters e/'Captain Portlock It me are eopiedfrom the erigmalt in my fojejfum : and, having inferied them, il may kf
ejtfeited that IJboutd futliji tbo/e 'which / virine to him ;•• the/ are Iberefire added,
( No. I. )
ft Capt. N. Portlock,
Commanding the KiNC GlORGt.
.SIR,
I MAKE no doubt, but that you will be furprifed on the penifal of a letter from a bro-
ther officer in this difhnt part of the globe ; and as Captain Dixon has been fo good as to oft'er a conveyance of iliis to
you, 1 could not omit the favourable moment that providentially ofters itielf.
Some few days ago, the natives informed me of the arrival of two Ihips in this Sound, which, this evening, we found to
be fafl, by the arrival of Captain Dixon on board the Nootka.
1 had wrote a note a tew days ago, which I intruded to one of the natives, to deliver on board one of the fliips, wliicli
he promifed to do for a certain reward.
Before I proceed further. Sir, it will be necelTary to give you fome account of ourfelveJ : Captain Dixon will give yoti
a proper account of the fize of the (liip, and fo forth.
I failed from Bengal, in company witli the Sea Otter, of 1.50 tons, my confort, commanded alfo by a lieutenant of
the luivy, whofe name is Tipping, in the montij of March 1 7 »6 i tlie Government of Bengal being diicfly concerned in
the
'h
w-^
\l ^
Xxxlf
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
The only animals we faw were bears, foxes, martins, mountain-iheepr
and the ermine.— Of the latter we only killed two pair, which were of a
diiFerent fpecies.
Of gecfe there were a great quantity in the feafon, with various other
fowls of the aquatic fpecies ; but except the crow and the eagle we faw no
birds that were the natives of the woods.
The article which the natives efteem moft is iron, and they would prefer
fuch pieces, as approached, in any degree, to the form of a fpcar. — Green
glafs beads are alfo much fought after, and at times thofe which were red and
blue. — They were very fond of our woollen jackets, or any of tlae old cloaths
belonging to the feamen.
Tliey
the eicpedition. The Sea Otter returncJ to China in September, with the cargo of furs procured on thecoaA : I deter-
mined to winter; and accordingly chofe tlie harbour where Captain Dixon found us.
My complement of men and officers were, four mates, gunner, purfer, furgeon, boalfwain, carpenter, forty men and
boys, with a crew ftrong, able, and healthy. I thouglit myfelf fate and fccure ; but the calamities which we have fuf-
fered during a long, fevere winter, deflitute of all frcOi provifiuns, will, I am fiirc, fill you with tender concern. To
fuch a height did it arrive, that it was often tlie cafe, that myfelf and officers liaJ alone to bury the dead, which w*
•ffeftedwith infinite difficulty, from the rigid and impenetrable frofts.
We arrived here the 15th of September, and were completely froze in by the ift of November. About Chriflma*
the fcurvy made its appearance amongft us, and raged with fuch fury, that it fwcpt off the third and 4th officers, fur.
geon, boatfwain, carpenter, cooper, and the grcateft part of the crew. In fhort, no one on board was exempt from it,
either more or lefs ; and it is but three weeks ago, tliat what few were left have been able to creep about. Sucli lias
been our diflrelfed fituation ;— at prefent we have, indcpcndant of the officers, but five men before tlie m.ift capable of
doing duty, and fourfick, which compofethc whole of our remaining numbers.
I have given you. Sir, but a fhort recital of our misfortunes; and (hall hope, if it is in your power, that you will
afford us fome relief.
I (liould myfelf liave accompanied Captain Dixon, had I a boat afloat that could fwim ; tlie o.ily one I have is a long,
boat, which we are now endeavouring to repair, and (he is on (hore.
As I have particularly mentioned to Captain Dixon wherein you may be able to affill me ; in addition I can only fay,
that any favour will indeed be gratefully received.
I fliall beg le.-ive to mention, that could you poffibly fpare the men, I (bould agree to any terms in their favour, anj
faitlifully return them on the fliip's arrival at Canton.
J beg your acceptance of a few bags of rice, being indeed the only thing I have to prefent you with.
ii/i »/.U7j, i7ly.
I am. Sir,
Your moft obedient humble Sen'anf,
J. M E A R E S.
N«.
■■:*;:U'
1
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
K>KV
They live entirely upon fifli, but of all others, they prefer the whale j and
as the oil is with them the moft delicate part of the fi(h, they naturally eftecm
thofe moft which poffefs an oily quality. — They feldom drefs their fifh, but
when they do, the fire is kindled by fri£lion with fome of the drieft pine
wood, and they have a kind of baskets made of a fubftance which holds
water, into which a quantity of heated ftones is put to make it boil ; but
it is not often that their food undergoes this unneceflary and troublefome ope-
ration. In the coldeft period of the winter we never faw them employ their
kitchen, which might, perhaps, arife from local circumftances, that encreafed
the difficulty attending their culinary exertions.
They are certainly a very favage race of people, and poflTefs an uncom-
mon degree of infenfibility to corporal pain. — Of this we had a very fingular
proof on the following occafion': — In the courfe of the winter, among otlier
rubbifh, feveral broken glafs bottles had been thrown out of the (hip, and one o£
Ez th«
(N=»'II. >
iON BOARD THE KiNC GeOROF, PoRT EtCHES,
Prince William's Sound, May ittb, jjS.7.
To CaFTAIN PoRTLOCK and DlXOM,
*
Gektlemi^t,
I N ny letter of the nth oFtliis month, I reprefL-nted to you the veiy'diftrelTcd .tn4
deplorable Rate of my fliip, which you are p«rfei.lly fcnflblc is leally the cafe, and have moft kindly offered nic fiich
alliftance as is in j-oiir power, rcfpeir^ing men to adift me in navigating the (hip to China.
I muft again beg leave to rcprefcnt to you, that fuch is my lituation, that, without the ad^fiance of men, it will be
nearly an impolliblc thing for me even to quit this Sound, much Icfs to navigate the (liip to China; iuch is the debility
af my crew.
If therefore, Gentlemtn, you will take this into confidcration, and permit me to have a feamcn or two from each of
your fliips, it nuiy be the means of faving the lives of the wretched remains of my crew, by enabling nie to conducit w ith
Inch affiftance, the Nootka to Canton, where on your arrival, (hould Providence fo order it as to fend us there alfo I
wlUfaithfully deliver them back to their rcfpe^ive Ihips; and do engage, on the part of the Proprietors to fland to anf
daniai e tiiat may enfue to you for giving us fuch timely and necelliuy adiftance.
Idoalfocn-jage, fliould not your fliips arrive at Canton, to fend thofe men to England, fliould they defire to gOr
I am, Gentlemen,
Your moft obedient,
J. M E A R E S,
CimmanJer of the UnWD Kwtka,
! I
1 1
A-
,-»•*!
U.
xxxvt
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
the natives wlio was fearching among them to fee what he could find, cut his foot
in a very fcvcre manner : on feeing it bleed, we pointed out what iiad caufed
the wound, and applied a drefling to it, which we made him underftand was
the remedy we ourfelves employed on fimilar occafions : but he and his com-
panions iiiftantly turned the whole into ridicule ; and, at the fame time, taking
fomc of the glnfs, they fcarificd their Itgs and arms in a moft extraordinary
manner, informing us that nothing of that kind could ever hurt them.
^
Such is the charn£ler and manners of the people in whofe territory we pafTed
fuch a deplorable fcafon ; it was therefore with infii ite joy we took our leave of
the Cove on the 21 ft of June, and the following even Mig we got out to fea. Our
crew now confifted only of twenty-four people, including myfelf and officers, with
the two failors we got from the King George, having, alas ! buried twenty-three-
men in this inhofpitable Sound. Thofe which remained, however^ were all in>
great
( N°. III. )
yi Capt. Portlock,
Cammaniling ibe King George, Port Etches.
DEAR SIR,
1 W A S this morning favoured, and agreeably furprized by the arrival of your boats, and
the receipt of your friendly letter.
The ice is completely ililFolved, and the weather has been extremely fine, which has enabled us to put forward our
preparations for fea j to bring whiili to a final conclufion you may jufily fuppole our utniofi cfToits have been made.
I arrived fafe at my fiiip the mcrnini,' after I left you ; and, as I liad brought the (Irength of my crew with me, fo in
my abfence notliing could be done to put her in forwardnefs.
Our chief employment fince has been to entirely clear our main and after holds, and completely ftow them for fea,
with the view of leaving the coaft j and in confcquence of w hich all the beads and unwroiight iron have been (lowed ii>
the ground tier.
But, my dear Sir, fo far .ire we from being ready, that our utmofl efforts have been able only to accompllfli this ; and
I do fuppofe it will be ten days at leal! before we (hull be ready to put to feu ; for we have now the fore-hold to clcir of
many calks, more ballad to lal<e in, and we have already received between twenty and thirty tons ; our c.ilks are to
repair without having a cooper, and we have to complete our water, cut a large quantity of woo<l, and rep.iir the fails,
which are nuich eaten by rats ; and finally to complete the rigging for fea j to perform this, we h.ive, I think, your two
men, and eight capable of doing duty; nor am I myfelf, or any of my officers idle, being employed in cndcavoiirlng to
rep.iir a miferable lliattcred cutter, and in performing various other nccelTai^ avocations. --This being a true (fate ofuur
fituation, you will from thence judge whether it will not rcquirt' even a little exertion to be realy in ten liays.
We have a littlt patch of ground uliii h is clear of fnow j to this fpot we fend iiur invalids, w l.o are c:r.ployed in boiling
docof tion and oil, for prefent ufe and |i-.i-ftore, they recover but llowly, thoujjh I perceive that the returning fpi iiig li.ith
been the chief iollrunieut.
I cbfcn-e
\K
! i:
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
xxwu
great fplrits, though fome of them had not yet fufficiently recovered to go alolt.
As foon as we got clear of the laud, the whid hung much to the Southward, and
brought a thick fog along with it. As this weather was very unfavourable to
people in our ftate, it was thought advifable to keep near the co.ift.
We had now been at fca ten days, and had got no further to the Southward
than 57". Our people alfo from being wet on deck, beg .111 to tomp'ain of pnins
in their legs which fwelled fo much, that fevcral of them were obH{T;cd to keep-
tlieir beds. — It was determined, therefore, to ftaiul in for land which was not
above forty leagues diftant. VVe accordingly made a very high peak of a
fuigular form, as the hihabitants in its neighbourhood were of fingular manners
and appearance.
When we got pretty well in with the fhore, a confiderable number of canoes
came off to us, which were of a very different conflruftion from thofe in the
Sound.
I obferve what you fay relative fo tlie arrangements which you have made for the purpofe of trade ; in it I wifli you
•very fiicccl's, and I Ix-fr leave to cxprefs my hopes tliat I (hjll meet you at tlie dole of the fealbn at Canton.
Yon may be alTiireil that it g.ive mc lingular plcudire when 1 perufcil that part of your letter wherein you rcqueft that
I will fupply you with ihe articles of trade you meniion, which 1 will moll allinedly comply with 'he moment 1 join you,
which 1 mean purpofcly to do, to fupply every want you may have, and that is in my power to );r3nt.
The beads and iron, as I have mentioned, being liowcd in the ground tier, cannot be got at luuil 1 arrive with you,
v.hen Vdu will lend me the nccellary iiHilhuice to come at them ; 1 have IVarccly fullicient at hand to ftrve the purpofe* wf
Weeping the lliip fupplied with the neccir.uy rcfrcllunenis which the natives bring at times to us.
Tlie ct: er.irticles 1 have put in the boats, they being at hand.
As I hope fliorlly to fee you, 1 will only beg leave lo add, that I am, with cfteem,
• Your's, very fmcerely,
NooTK A, S:.ihii/timl-C(^vtf Prince Ifil/iam's Sound,
M.yzi, 1787. J. M E A R E S.
( N°. IV. )
CAPTAIN PORTLOCK,
I HAV p; juft received your letter wiih the bond or paper, from your mate.
I return you the paper, which is (i-ned, but beg leave to remind you that 1 think you have ufed me extremely ill
thrc.' hunt then hulo of this bulincis, in rctraaing from your word, relutrrc to the three men which 1 was to have had •
one of my bell men is unable to do his duty; nor do 1 ^uppofe he will be able (Uiringtlic voyai,e : this, yuu mull b«
fallible, lenders it more nccclfary for you to aa with tlut humanity becuiiiing a ilritilh fubjea.
yune iS, 178.7.
I am. Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
J. M K A R E £.
T»
. • ». WiK'^.^itx. .. .«rt*i. *...,*«,•.
if'
n-
XXXVIll
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
Sound. They were made from a folid tree, and many of them appeared to be from
fifty to feventy feet in length, but very narrow, being no broader than the tree
itfelf. — But of all the beings we ever faw in human fhape, the women were the
moft ftrange and hideous. — They have all a cut in their under-lip, fimilar to the
men of Prince William's Sound, but much larger, it being a full inch further
in the cheek on either fide. — In this aperture they have a pieceofwood of at leaft
feven inches in circumference, of an oval {hape, of about half an inch thick,
which has a groove round the edges, that keeps it fteady in the orifice. This
\inaccountable contrivance diflends the lips from the teeth, and gives the coun-
tenance the moft difgufting appearance which we believe the human face to
be capable of receiving. — Thefe people appeared not unacquainted with the
natives of the Sound, when we defcribed them as having double mouths : in-
deed their languages feemed to have affinity to each other, but thefe people
appeared to form a much more numerous tribe.— They had never been before
feen by any navigator, and had not a favourable wind fprung up in the night,
we intended to have paffed a few days among them. — The latitude of this part
of the coaft is in 56' 38' North, and the longitude 223 o' 25" Eaft of Greenwich.
A North-
To Henry Cox, Efq. Cannn.
S t R,
AT fight, pleafe to pay Nfr. Robert Horne, carpenter of the King George, the fum of fort/
^sllara, for work done on board the iVco/^x ; which place to the account of, Sir,
Your moft obedient, humble Servant
Snow NoOTKA, Port Etches, Prince iniliam's Sound, ), M E A R E S)
June i8th, 17S7,
( N°. V. )
SIR, '
Mr. Crifileman has delivered to me feme articles of tlir Sandwich Iflands, as a prefent
fioni you : As I am going there in pcrlon I tnift to be able to procure fuch matters as I may want of that nature {
nevcrthelefs 1 am much obliged to you, but beg leave to decline accepting iny mark of your attention,
yiineil, 17S7. lam. Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
To CAf TAIN PORTLOCK' J, M E A R E S.
Before I conclude this note I (hall remark on the declaration of Captain Dixon, in the account of his voyage, " that the
difordcr which fo fevciely afflifted my crew, arofc from their uncontrolled application to fpirituous liqujir,' In the firft
ylacc, tie alTfrtion is no' four.ded in facl ; and, fecondly, Captain Dixon's crew and himftlf being viliteU by a (iiuita*
■^cUon, I liave an equal right ta retaliate tlie fume SvCufatio upon hiiu.
•\ \
INTRODUCTORY VOYACiEr
• XXXlX
A Northerly wind now fprung up, and brouglit tloar weather alon^^ with it,
which contimied till we made the ifland of Owhyhc;. Our paflage from the
continent was fortunately very (hort, but if we had not been blefTed with a con-
tinuance of fine and favourable weather, the ftate of the (hip was fuch as to
make it a matter of doubt whether we (hould have reached the Sandwich
Iflands. Still, however, the horrid difordcr beneath which the crew had fo
long laboured, continued to accompany us, and one man died before we gained
the falubrious clime, whofe zephyrs may be faid to have borne health on their
wings ; for in ten days after we arrived at the iQands, every complaint hai
difappeared from among us.
We remained here a month, during whicl? time the iflandcrs appeared to
have no other pleafure but what arofe from flicving kindnefs and exercifing
hofpitality to us. — They received us with joy — and they favv us depart with
tears. Among the numbers who prefled forward, with inexpreflible eagernefs,
to accompany us to BritanneCf — Tianna, a chief of Atooi, and the brother of
the fovereign of that ifland was alone received to embark with us, amid the
envy of all his countrymen. Of this amiable man, I fliall add nothing in this
place, as he will be rather a confpicuous, and I am difpofed to believe, an in-
tercfting charafter in the fucceeding pages of tliis volume.
On the 2d of September, we left the Sandwich Idands, leaving behind us, as
we have every reafon to believe, the moft fiivourable iinpreflions of our conduct
and charadler with the inhabitants of them,— and grateful, on our part, for the
generous friendfliip aud anxious fcrvices we received from them. After a
very favourable voyage, carrying tlie trade winds tlirough the whole of it, we
arrived in the Typa, an harbour near Macao, on the aoth of Odober 1-8-.
We had, however, fcarcely come to an anchor when the weather began to
wear the appearance of an approaching ftorm, which our fliattered yeflcl was
by
xl
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE.
#
by no means, in a ftate to encounter. We were alfo very much alarmed on
feeing two French frigates, as they appeared, riding at anchor, about a mile
from us. The minds ^i^ people fo long harrafled with hardships, and fecluded
from all political intelligence, were not in a ftate to for.n favourable conjec-
tures, paiticularly as it was fuch an uncommon circumftance to fee French
(hips of war in ihcfe feas. When, therefore, we faw fevcral boats filled with
troops putting off from them, we concluded the woi ft. — Having no confidence
in the protedion of a neutral port, we began to look towards a ftate of captivity
as the concluding fcene of our misfortunes. Thefe boats, however, paHed
by us, as we afterwards learned, to board a Spaniftj merchantman in fearch of
runaway fiilors. The French ftiips proved to be theCalypfo frigate of 36 g^ns,
and a ftore ftiip, commanded by the Count de Kergaricu.— But, as if we were
deftincd to be pcrfecuted by difafters to the laft, we had no fooner loft our
apprehenfion of human enemies, than we were afTailed by elementary foes ; for
fuch was the violent gale which now came on, that the Calypfo frigate could
with diflSculty preferve her ftation with five anchors. The fituation of the
Nootka, therefore, who had only one left, may be better conceived than de-
fcribed. After adding a few more hair-breadth efcapes to thofe from which flic
had already been providentially delivered, we were obliged to run her aftiore
as the only means of prefervation. This was, however, happily effedted by
the aiftive afllftancc of the Count de Kergarieu, his officers and feamen, of
whofe generous, and, I may add, indefatigable fervices, I am happy to make
this page a grateful, though imperfe(St record. ' -
It is with the moft painful fenfations, that while I exprefs the moft grateful
aftonifliment at the prefervation of myfelf, and the remainder of my crew from
tne imminent dangers and difafters which we encountered, I am to lament
the fate of our con fort the Otter Sloop, Captain Tipping. — No tidings have
been received of her after (he left Prince William's Sound.— We muft conclude
therefore that (he and her people have pcri(hed beneath the waves.
*
OBSER-
m
\\
l|i.Jlli»»iil.-..J>.r i""' rii,.«iiTOl.
i%i0»ii*mwm\- 4fm '.4fc«w*f»v*<»f "
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A (!hart
of thf Interior Part of
North America
DlCMOXSTKATINli tfie vrrv o'nttt fintfhihilih
V Princess 'y V^>
'Pr till if '•■"■*'"*' ^No -^
J. najttivd dtl ' S'Marum CAurck Kirif.
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Wecdtnank'Afutlt'^H. Siulp-M
■ .:*»*<«v.^:"."«?^.i5;?<s
'•«■•> • *»
6ns
OBSERVATIONS
V r'
!•
ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE
or A
;)A
NORTH fVESr PASSAGE, &e.
'J ' I
C.,,0ollwut
.CH»nn(l
fjtiaria
^JameI
aauanat
[.A/i*ij-.ifi<<i'» .r.-'^A
< ■ ,-
V.
THE attention of Great Britain, as well as of other commercial countries .
of Europe, has long been directed to the Coaft of America, with the hope
of dlfcovering a paflage between the Northern Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.-*
From the beginning of this century to the laft voyage of Captain Cook, a
general belief prevailed in the exiAence of fuch a paiTage, and various expe-
ditions have been equipped and fent forth, to realize opinions founded on it, or
to put an end to it, by determining, if poflible, that it was erroneous and with-
out foundation.
It is unneceflary, as it would be impertinent in me to enter at large into the
well-known hiftory of the original idea of a North Weft pafTage, and the fub-
fequent attempts to difcover it, with the various dlfputes it occaHoned. — I (hall
only obferve that Mr. Dobbs, by whofe influence and from whofe fuggeftions
the parliamentary reward was granted to the difcoverers of this important ob.
jedl, clofed his life, which was diftinguiftied by an indefatigable attention to it,
in a firm belief of its exiftence, and that the prefent century would not be
cpmpleated before the difcovery of this paflage would give new advantages to
the commerce of his country.
Indeed
<i ,r'.'iiJwm
f^i'-'tJi
ii-^^,j ■.)■
• .V..-.
^*A 'Jt t. A
a^4 .-ijiw wrtiimatnimi
'■iuiw»iti[i'flriiiH''»*WM \nnn iiriiwwiiii
tfttxi'vmiMfrjK^-m^
ii
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•V
■> I H
I
I. i
A. I
■?!'
zlii OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
Indeed it does not appear that the Britifli nation was, by any means, fatisfied
or convinced that the voyages which had been performed for the difcovery of
altorth VVeft jJaflage Had bedn decifiVe.— Though the Eaftern fide of America
had been explored at large, yet the numerous Sounds, Bays, and Inlets remaining
to be examined, Were Aifiicient Co juftify a continuance of conjecture, and to
re-excite the enterprifing fpirit of fubfequent adventurers.
)i
The beneficial confequences that would arifefrom the difcovery of a North Weft
paflage are felf evident ; for although India is, in a manner, brought fo much
nearer to Europe by the modern improvements in (hipping and navigation, yet
to fliorten the prefent circuitous courfe, is an obje£l of the firft commercial im-
portance.— It was indeed for this purpofe that the voyage of Captain Cook
was undertaken by the command of his Majefty , to difcover, if poflible, a pafiage
between the two oceans ; and to begin his refearch on the Coaft of New Albion.
IrKe voyages which had been made in preceding periods to Hudfon's and
Baflrn*s 6ays, with the fame view, though unfuccefsful, as to the mairt obje^,
ferve'd ratlier to confirm the exigence of it ; and Mr. Elbbbs, who had niade it a
pri'nCipalf obje£t of his ambition arid his life, was continually making converts to
his favourite lyftem. It' was in confequence of his folicitations that Middleton
was fent out ; yet the queftion did not feem to have received any elucidation
from his voyage.— His proceedings were faid to be kept fecret, or his account
garbled; and the Hudfon's Bay company incurred a cohfiderable degree bfodiurti,
which encteafed in proportion as the exiftence of a North Weft paflage continued
to grow on the populair belief and expectation.
SiiSfequent voyages werie made without producing any certainty as to the great
obje£^ of them ; and the opinions of the public Were either in a ftate of hefita-
tibu or divifion cohcernuig it, when the naval rtiiilifter of the period difpatched
Toung and Pickersgill fucceflively to Baffin's Bay, and Cook to the Weftern
iide of America, to determine the queftion, if poflible, for ever. — How far this
important
W
v-
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, tfr.
xliii
important matter is determined by Captain Cook's voyage, the account of it,
univerfally read and known, will dircover.— Tliofe of Young and Pickersgill
have never been publifhed ; but we are informed, on the refpe£table authority of
the Preface to the Voyages of Captain Cook, that they failed entirely of the end
propofed.— Baffin's Bay, therefore, which is yet unexplored, may be thought to
afford fome hopes of this moft defirable communication.
In the voyage of Captain Cook it is feen, that after performing the lefler
obje£ts of it, he arrives on the coaft of New Albion, and inftead of beginning
his refearches in the latitude of 65° North, according to the language of his
inftrudions, he commences his furvey in a much lower latitude, until he ar-
rives in King George's Sound, fucceflively in Prince William's Sound, and the
river which is fmce honoured with his name. He then fails to the latitude
pointed out by his orders; and, in the end, finds an infurmountable obftruc-
tion in a barrier of ice which is fuppofed to reach to the North Pole ; froip
which circumftance alone the conclufion is drawn, that there is no paflage
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
-- . . -_ ■ ■ .. ;v'-/. 'J' ' . . ...
It cannot, indeed, be too much regretted, that the particular portion of the
Coafl of America between the latitude of 56*' and 50** North, and 47° and 48"
North, did not admit of more attention than appears to have been beflowed on
them. The weather in this important part of the voyage was fo unfavourable
that the (hips were prevented from approaching the coaft ; for though the Fe-
lice and Iphigenia did explore thefe latitudes, yet there is every reafon to
lament that Captain Cgok was himfelf prevented from fuch an examination as
would have proceeded from him.
When the great Navigator was engaged in exploring theie low latitudes, he
was, at that moment, in pofleflion of Mr. Hearne's track acrofs the continent
of America to the North of 70", which appears to annihilate all hopes of a paf-
iP ^ fage
■ ' 1
I
.L::,,-.
L
xliv
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
fage between Fort Churchill and Copper-mine River. Yet Captain Cook, even
contrary to his inilrudlions, thought it expedient to explore thofe very parts on
the Weftern fide ; a circumftance which may certainly juftify us in fuppofing,
that he did not think the route of Mr. Hearne fo very conclufive as it has
fince been imagined. ^
Iv
A general conclufion has been alfo drawn, that a paflage to the Northward
of 70** would be of no general utility ; and the probability, nay even the exift-
ence of a paflage South of 70° is decided. Neverthelefs, the naval minifter, in
full pofleflion of the Hudfon Bay Company *s difcoveries, thought it right to
fend both Young and Pickersgill fuccefllvely into Baffin's Bay, to explore a paf-
fage that way ; from which arrangement it may be concluded that government,
at leaft. Had every reafon to believe that a North Weft paflage did exift ; and I
am by no means convinced by any fubfequent voyages or reafonings upon them,
that the grounds of former opinions on this fubje<Sl are materially changed. —
On the contiary, the pra(5ticability, as well as poflibility of a North Weft Paflage
ftill remains, as far as my judgment goes, in all its former ftate of expectation ;
but whether to the North or South of Mr. Hearne's track and fea, will be here-
after confidered. , .
i\-j
' It is well-known, that in the difputes which this fubje£l occafioned, at a for-
mer period, much acrimony mingled in the difcuffion ; and the Hudfoii's Bay
Company were accufed of difcouraging the purfuit, and keeping thofe difcove-
ries which had been made, and might have aided the future adventurer, in myfte-
rious darknefs; or, which is much worfe, of altering and falfifying fuchaccounts
of their people as they were obliged to unfold, relative to the f nquiries after a
North Weft paflage.— Thefe prejudices are found ftlU to prevail, but, as we be-
lieve, without any reafon. We, at leaft, are amongft thofe who have an entire
reliance on the communications of the Hudfon's Bay Company ; and if we
fliould be found];to differ from Mr. Hearne, we truft it will appear that in the
aiiguments which will be brought forward, we are fupported by fuch fads as will
juftify
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, tic.
xU
juftify our offering them to the public, in behalf of an opinion, which, from the
authority of able men, and great names, has of late been confidered not only as a
fanciful theory, but become an unpopular doctrine.
For this purpofe we beg leave to produce the voyage of the Iphigenia, as re-
lated in the body of this work ; and it will there be feeu that (he explored the
very tracks of the Coaft of America which were not vifited by Captain Cook,
or other navigators ; in which fpace is found the antient Northern Archipelago,
agreeing in pofition and defcription with the accounts of the older voyagers.
This fliip enters fo far to the Eaft, that flie pafles, by three degrees, the
Weftern boundary of Mr. Hearne's fea in 72°, (but placed by Mr. Arrowfmith,
in his chart lately publiihed from Mr. Turner's charts and journals, in the lati-
tude of 68' 15' North, and longitude of 228° Eaft of Greenwich) when a clear
and extenfive paflage is feen without impediments. This Archipelago is found
to occupy a fpace from the latitude of 51° North, and longitude of 231° 45'
Eaft, to the latitude of 54° 30' North, and longitude of 227" Eaft, the whole
of which extenfive fpace was not explored by Captain Cook. But though it may
be faid that fome part of it was examined by the great Navigator, when nothing
of this nature was difcovered, it muft be coufidcred that iflauds of great exteni-
are fituated to the Weftward of this Archipelago, and divided from it in fome
places by a fea as wide as the channel of England, as has been proved by the
track of the Iphigenia, and that it was the coaft of thefe great Iflands which
he fuppofed to be the continent of America, which we are rather difpofed to
think he never faw ; but, under that idea, continued to explore a latitudinal
chain of iflands, ftretching from 45° to 65° North; nay, perhaps, much further
North and South, forming a Weftern barrier to the real continent of America:
For there is a ground for more than common conjecture, that King George's
Sound, Cook's River, and the whole coaft hitherto feen, are part of a lengthened
chain of detached iflands.
w
4i
\.
!•!
-MlV,'-
Tlie
.'!
xlvi OBSERVATIONS ON rilE TROBABILE EXISTENCE OF
The channels of this Archipelago were found to be wide and capacious, with
near two hundred fathoms depth of water, huge promontories ftretching out"
into the Tea, where whales and fea-otters are feen in an incredible abundance.—
In feme of thefe channels there are iflands of ice, which we may venture to fay
could never have been formed on the Weftern fide of America, which is amild
and moderate climate ; fo that their exigence cannot be reconciled to any other
idea, than that they received their formation iti the Eaftprn Seas, and have been
drifted by tides or currents through the paflUge for whofe exiftence we are
contending.
Vi
We know not how to account for thefe large floating mgfles of ice in any
other manner. — The Northern Pacific Ocean is never encumbered with interrup-
tions of*this nature, and is navigable in every feafon of the year ; tor, though
the Nootka was frozen up fo many months in Prince William's Sound, it was
in a partial manner, and in an harbour whofe water, to a certain depth, was
frefhened by the rivulets and ponds that were emptied into it. Here were evi-
dent rcafons therefore why the froft fhould operate with more power there ; —
but, after all, the ice was not of an extraordinary thicknefs ; and during the
whole of the winter, the great Sound was without ice, and even the mouth of
the river remained unfrozen. Indeed, had not the crew been wholly debilitated
by their difaflrous fuiferings, the (hip would have been cut out of the ice, and
put to fea.
In navigating the coaft of this part of America from 45 to 6^° North, nothing
like a congregated body of ice had been feen ; and, inflead of fuppofing them-
felves to be navigating the Northern regions, the navigators might fuppofe them-
felves to be ranging beneath a tropical climate. — It would, however, be a fatif-
fa£):ory circumftance, if it were poffible to know whether that barrier of ice, feen
by Captain Cook in Behring's Strait, continues immovably fixed ; for it might
be fuppofed that the Northerly winds, which are there fo very prevalent, might,
perchance float the feparated ice, as in other feas } and it is by no means un-
I reafonable
H .Ml ■■ miW 11' — y '-
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, fie, slvil
reasonable to fuppofe, that in fuch cafe, the icy fragments might fometimes float
towards Cook's River or Prince William's Sound ; but no fuch thing as a par-
ticle of ice has ever been feen from the month of March to 0£tober, the times
and feafons when the North' Weft Coaft of America has been navigated.
A writierof coniiderable authority in whatever relates to geography and navi*
gation*, has declared that he has long fufpedted the North Weft part of Hudfon's
Bay to confift of broken iflands, and his fufpicions on this matter appear t»
arife from an examination of various maps both printed and manufcript, com«
municated to him by the company, of the Weft fide of Hudfon's Bay. — He
reprefents them, however, to be difcordant and indiftin£t, and treats with me-
rited contempt the folly of pretending in fo (hort a time as has generally been
employed to determine with precifion on the bays and inlets in fuch extenfive
founds as thofe of Wager and Chefterfield. — He is of opinion that Hearne's traft
isdecifive, as far as it goes, in cafe the lakes and rivers he pajfed were frejh •VLOter,
which, however, is not abfolutely afcertained. But he is ftill indecifive as to a
general queftion of a North Weft Paffage ; and, with all his knowledge of the
fubjeft, and ingenuity of inveftigation, he chufes to leave the matter open for
future difcuflion and enquiry.
In fpeaking of the Cheft^^rfield inlet, of rhich he faw four different charts ux
the poffeflion of the Hudfon Bay Company, all of which differed from each
other, he obferves, that it was navigable for upwards of two hundred geographic
miles for veflels of the largeft burthen ; and, he adds, it might have been ex-
pected that many commercial advantages would have enfued from fuch a dif-
covery : but, continues he, 1 am given to underftand that the Company's fervants
are extremely averfe to any Northern expeditions ; and every man converfant in
public bufinefs muft know the difficulty, almoft amounting to an impofTibility
of conftraining men at a diftance to execute any thing contraiy to their inclina-
tions.
'>*;£>■
* Mr. Dalrynaplc.
It
i
xlTiu OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
It appears, as has been juft hinted, to be the opinion of this gentleman, that,
according to Mr. Hcarne's information, there can be no fea communication from
Hudfon's Bay to the Pacific Ocean under 72"* of North latitude, which is that of
the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, the exadt latitude of which, however, is not deter-
mined, though Mr. Hearne thinks he cannot have erred above 20'. On the
contrary, the map of the Canadian traders makes this identical polar fea to be
in the latitude of 68° 15' North ; which is lefs than Mr. Hearne's obfervation at
Conge-ca-tha-wha-chaga, viz. 68" 46' North, if that is an obfervation of re-
liance* • - *■ ■ ' " ■ • ■ - / ■• ■-■' V • ■■■;:, ■' • -
If the communications which have been made from the refpeftable authority
of the Canadian Merchants, fbme of whom were fully adequate to this bufinefs,
are thought deferving of credit, there muft either be two lituations where the
Polar fea has been feen, in the varying latitudes of 68" 15' North, and 72° North,
or the matter muft reft in doubt between Mr. Hearne's obfervations and thofe of
the Canadian merchants : we will, however, fuppofe, for a moment, that the lati-
tude of thePolar fea, as marked by the latter, is correct, it then becomes by no means
improbable that Cook's River may have fome communication with this fea, in
68" 1 5', as thediftance from the higheft latitude at which navigators have arrived in
that river is 61° 30', and longitude 2 10°, and thelatltude and longitude of the/ea feen
by the Canadians, 68° 15' North, and 228° Eaft ; the diftance being no more than
620 geographic miles. If, therefore, we credit the Canadian accounts, which bear
the charafter of accuracy, and thereby fix the fea feen by Mr. Hearne in the la-
titude of 68° 15', and longitude 228° Eaft, it would at once fuggeft a more than
poflible communication between Cook's River and the Southernmoft part of
Baffin's Bay, or the Northernmoft part of Hudfon's Bay into the Atlantic Ocean.
For it (hould be remembered, that in the higheft known latitude of Cook's River,
no impediment was obferved to the further progrefs of Ihips, either from rocks,
(hoals, or a want of a due depth of water ; the channel, on the contrary, ap-
pearing capacious and extenfive, and abounding with whales.
There
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, He. xllx
There are, according to the moft corrc£b information, feveral curioua charts
or maps in the pofleflionof the Hudfon's Bay Company, drawn by different per-
fons, and feme even (ketched by Indians, of the interior parts of the country,
towards the North Weft, and the lands that bind the Northern Pacific Ocean.—
On the face of thefe charts, particularly on one defcribed by two Indians^ ap-
pear feveral rivers and inlets, unknown to Europeans, which communicate with
the Arathapefcow lake, and from this lake the river Kifcachewan runs North
Weft into the Pacific Ocean, communicating, perhaps, with Cook's River, the
Northern Archipelago, or what we (hall call the Straits of John de Fuca.-»
Thefe charts bear a great refemblance to thofe made by the Canadian traders^
which renders them extremely interefting.
The Indian maps imply that Hudfon's Bay communicates with the Polar Sea,
which countenances the opinion of a paflr^^e by Repulfe Bay, which itfelf has
not been perfe£lly examined ; and this feems, as it is obferved by the fame au-
thority, to be confirmed by an anonymous manufcript belonging to the Com-
pany ; but it exprefles the water to be (hallow where Captain Middleton went.
The failure of this voyage, however, is well known to have excited great cla-
mours and difcontents, which, in many inftances, ftruck at the fidelity of the
relation.
Whatever may have been the juftice of former complaints concerning the
myfterious concealments of the Hudfon's Bay Company, no charge of this nature
can be imputed to the gentlemen who nowcompofe that refpeftable corporation.
Among other proofs of their liberal conduit and difpofition, their prefent plan of
making furveys, and profecuting difcoveries in Hudfon's Bay, &c. deferves to be
diftinguiihed.
Mr. Duncan, a mafter in the Royal Navy, failed in the laft Hudfon's Bay
fliip to their fettlement, for the exprefs purpofe of exploring and furveying not
G tonly
H
?'^': 1
1 OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
only Hudfon's Bay, but Baffin's Bay ; he will therefore be employed this year,
on his trrival at the Company's fadories, to perform in fmall veflels this ufeful
and neccflkry fervice.— We untlerftand that the Company have engaged him,
upon the moft liberal terms, for two years ; and it is therefore to be expected
that, during the fummer of this year, he will have made a very confiderable
progrefs.— Mr. Duncan, as the reader will recolledl, has already been mentioned
with due praifc, for his atSlive and perfevering fpirit during the time he com-
manded the fmall veflel called the Princefs Royal ; and we Ihould feel an added
fatisfa£tion on this fubjeiEV, if it were to be his peculiar good fortune to fucceed
where a Middleton and fo many others have failed, and to make a difcovery of
fo much importance to the commerce of Great Britain.
The obfervation naturally occurs, that the Hudfon's Bay Company, in the
employment of Mr. Duncan in this track of difcovery, appear to be, by no
means, without their expedation of fuccecding at laft in difcovering a com-
munication between Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, and the Northern Pacific
Ocean. , l.^-/. ■ ' . ''",- , . /-, ■ -, ■- ..--■.••,
The voyage of the Felice is only an additional fupport. — She enters the Straits
of John de Fuca between the latitudes of 48° 30' North, and the longitude of
235° Eaft ; and latitude 47° 30,' and longitude 235° ;o' Eafl ; and finds them
fifteen leagues in breadth ; very capacious, with a depth of i jo fathoms water,
where whales and fea otters were feen in great abundance. — If the ancient ac-
counts of thefe places are referred to, there is found to be fuch an agreement
between them and our own as to border on convidion. — Wiien this fea or ftrait
is entered, a clear, uninterrupted horizon to the Eaft, prefents itfelf to view in the
longitude of 236° 30' Eaft from Greenwicli, which is no more than 460 leagues
from Hudfon Bay, and occupies a fituation to the Eaftward of Mr. Hearne's fea,
agreeable to the obfervations before mentioned. If it Ihoulc be alked why thefe
Araits were not penetrated, or at leaft fome attempt made to penetrate them,
.-.t...., - -•• the
\ ^
ANORTHWESTPASSAGE, tf*. H
the anfwer Is at hand,<*the dedru^llon of our commercial enterprize by the (hips
of his Catholic Mnjefty.
The feveral voyages which have been made to the North VVeft Coaft of Ame-
rica, pre/'ous to thole of the Felice and Ipliigenia, have each thrown new lights,
and made additional difcoveries in that part of the globe.
No fooner was the valuable commerce that was to be procured in King George's
Sound made known to the world, than the adlive fpirit of adventure arofe ; and,
ftrangc as it may appear, four different expeditions ftartcd in the year 1786,
from different parts of the globe, to engage in tliis commerce, without any
knowledge of each other's defigiis, or of courfe fufpe^ting any kind of compe-
tition, until they arrived on the Coaft of America, when, as it may be fuppofed,
any difcouraging circumftance would come too late to make the adventurers
fh rink from the enterprize.
Previous, however, to every other expedition, a vcflel was equipped in China
in the year 1 785, by gentlemen of the firft mercantile abilities and reputation •
the command of her was cntrufted to Captain James Hanna, who fet fail in her
to feek the diftant continent of America, to explore its coafts, and to open fuch
an intercourfe with the inhabitants as might tend to a future commercial
eftabli(hment with them. The {vie of the vefl'el, which was under -o tons,
her equipment, which fcarcely amounted to thirty perfons, and every circum-
ftance belonging to her, ferved to imprefs the minds of all concerned in the
bufinefs with an high idea of the fpirit of the man who had undertaken to con-
duit his little band of Argonauts in an almoft untried courfe, and where dangers
were not to be avoided, or prepared for by the communicated experience of pre-
ceding adventurers. ■
Captain Hanna, on leaving China, purfued his courfe In the vicinity of Japan,
pafting through the Laqueo Iflands, and encountering fogs, vapours, and ftorms.
i^isuSid
Gz
till
/ i ;.
H
M
*f
^
J \
p
,1;
. \
J
''tf
'
Ki OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
till he arrived In King George's Sound, — the iecond European after Captain
Cook had left it. The natives, prefuming upon the inferior iize of the veflel,
and the confined number of the crew, made a defperate attack upon her, which
was repulfed by the fuperior bravery and good conduct of their new vifitors.
Thef- hoftiHties, however, foon ended in commercial friendfliip ; and aquan*
tity of fea-otter (kins was obtained from them. Captain Manna departed from
thefe people on the moft friendly terms, and proceeded to the Northward,
where he difcovered feveral founds, iflands, and harbours, which he named
Fitzhugh's Sound, Lance*s Iflands, and fome particular parts which he named
after Henry Lane, £fq ; but particularly an harbour which he called Sea Otter's
Harbour.
The journal of Captain Hanna was, as might be expected, very curious. He
was fo kind as to fubmit the examinatioti of them to us ; and they appeared, in
our judgment, to confirm the difcoveries faid to be made by De Fonte, and
which may now be faid to be actually realifed by the knowledge we have of the
Great Northern Archipelago. Captain Hanna, we find, enters this Sound, as
he efleemed it ; whereas it is now known to be a part of the Northern Archipe-
lago; but bad weather and an heavy fea obliged him to ufe his utmod expedi-
tion in getting out of it. . ^ . , ; V r. ?^ V
In this voyage we fee the extent of his difcoveries ; for his fecond voyage to
the North Weft Coaftof America, in 1786, did not lead to any thing further
than what related to mere commercial adventure ; and, before he could engage
in a third, this adive and able Teaman was called to take that voyage from
whence there is no return. t
. . . , '
It was in 1786, that different bands of trading adventurers ftarted up, as it
were, both in India and England, to profecute this commerce. — Frona India,
the equipments took place at Bengal and Bombay, under the patronage of
the refpeflive governments of thofe places. From the former failed the
Nootka
i
■ 'firt'iiiiifiMP^ft^ ■
* A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, Wf. Ilfl
Nootka and the Sn Otter,— from the latter, the Captain Cook and the Ex-
-periment. At the fame period, another equipment took place, for the fame
purpofc, in China j and the Sea Otter failed from thence, and was joined by the
Lark, which was Htted out with that intention for the coail of America.
About the fame time certain merchants in England, and, in particular, the
Meflrs. Etches of London, engaged in a fimilar adventure. Having obtftinisd a
licenfe from the South Sea Company to carry on this trade excluHvt _, , with
regard to England, for the term of five years ; and having been favoured with
a permiflion from the Ead India Company to lade teas home from China, thefe
gentlemen equipped the (hips King George and Queen Charlotte in a very fupe-
rior manner, and gave tlie command of them to Lieutenant Portlock of the royal
navy, and who had already been frequently employed by them as mafter of a
trading vefiel in their fervice. Thefe fhips left England in the month of Sep-
tember, 1785, near feven months before any of the equipments let fall from
the different parts of India.
The Captain Cook and the Experiment, commanded by the Captains Lowrie
andGuife, and under the fuperiuteivdanccofMr. Strange, one of the Company's
fervants, failed at the clofe of the year 1785, dr early in the year 1786 : they
were equipped in the beft pofTible manner by the public fpirit of David Scott,
Efquire, of Bombay, who was the principal owner of them. Their comman*
ders were men of abilities, and the inferior officers in every point of fu it able
charafler : fo that confidcrable expeilations were formed from fuch an equip*
ment. • «■-
,'i
I
After remaining fome time at Nootka Sound, they explored other parts of the
coaft, and arrived in Snug-corner Cove, in Prince William's Sound. In this
progrefs they indifputably difcovered that land to wliich Mr. Dixon gave the
name of Charlotte's Ifles, which he did merely from conjeftural opinion, as
they were never proved to be fuch till Captain Douglas, in the Iphigenia, failed
* through
Bv
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
through the channel which feparates them from what was then fuppofed to be
the American Continent. Mr. Strange nlfo drtk found the bay called Friendly
Cove, which received its prefcnt name from that gentleman.
The King George and Queen Charlotte, — though they poflTcflTcd the advantage
of being fitted out at the port of London, were appointed with numerous crew:;
and officers of every denomination, as well ns with an arrangement of Oores,
&c. fufficient to command ever/ advantage of trad-, and alfo to make fettle-
ments, form fadorics, which they were authorized to do, and build vcflTcls,— their
voyage was tedious and dilatory; and tlicir fucccfs, both with refpecl to com-
merce or difcovcry, by no means adequate to their fupcrior equipment.
After thefe (hips had fcparatcd, the Queen Charlotte proceeded to the South-
ward of Prince William's Sound ; and continuing her courfe to that part of the
coaft, named by Captain Cook Bchring's Ray, (he entered a port which then
received the name of Port Mulgrave. Captain Di on then proceeds to the Cape
Edgecumbe of Cook, and from thence traces the coaft till he arrived in a port
which was honoured with the appellation of Port Banks; and finally difcovered
the Northern part of thofe iflands whofc Southern extremity was firft difco-
vered, as has been already mentioned, by the Captains Lowrie and Gulfe. The
(hip then takes her courfe down the Weftern fide of thefe iflands ; and, rounding
the Southern extremity of them, proceeds partly between them, and what was,
at that time, fuppofed to be the continent of America; but apprehcnfive of
being entangled among thefe Iflands, (he quitted them at once, and proceeded on
her voyage to China. * ■ ■ .\r ■:'
The King George remained a confiderable time in Prince William's Sound ;
from whence (he difpatched her long-boat, at two different times, to Cook's
River, which made a furvey of fome part of the coaft between Prince William's
Sound, that bore a confiderable (hare in the general outline. She then left
that Sound ; and, after cafually exploring the coaft, and difcovering an harbour
or
r7 1' ?
ANORTH WEST PASSAGE, tfr. If
or two, one of which was named Portlock Harbour, (he took her courfe alfo to
China ; and both (hips returned to Europe.
The Imperial Eagle, Captain Barclay, we believe, failed from Europe the
begltn\ing of the year 1787 ; and not only arrived atNootka Sound in Auguft,
but explored that part of thecoad from Nootka to Wicananifh, and fo on to a
Sound to which he gave his own name. The boat's crew, however, was
difpatched, and difcovcrcd the extraordinary ftraits of John de Fuca, and alfo
tlie coaft as far as Queeiihythe ;— when, after the fatal cataftrophc which
happened to fume of them, this (hip quitted the coaft, and proceeded to
Cliina; having performed the whole of the voyage in twelvemonths, wliich
employed the King George and Queen Charlotte upwards of two years. The
Nootka made no other difcovery but that of diftrefs and misfortune
The year 1788 was produtSlive of conncfling, in fome meafure, the detached
and fcparate difcoverics of the (hips already mentioned. There were then on the
coa(t the (hips Prince of Wales and I'rincefs Royal, the Felice, the Iphigenia,
Columbiii, and Wa(hington ; whoeach contributed her (hare towards compleatirtg
the charts of the North Weftern part of the world which are attached to this
volume.
The Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, in particular, enters the channel that
feparates the Charlotte Ifles from the fuppofcd continent, and proceeds exploring
both fides; difcovering numerous harbours, founds, and inlets, which complete*
ly afcerttins the Northern Archipelago. He occupies almoft a whole fummer
in this ftation; and yet, ftrange as it may appear, quits the coaft of America
without knowing that Captain Douglas had already taken the fame courfe :—
yet has Captain Duncan, as might be expefted from him, added many valuable
remarks to the geography of this part of the world. ^ ..,.
The Prince of Wales has added alfo coudderably to the geographical defcrip-
tion of America. We have only to lament the lofs of her commander to the
"I
\%
country,
Ivi OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
qountfy,— a? he is now aprifoner with the Spaniards, aiidftill fuppoied to be ia
that ftate of deranged intelleifls which immediately fycceeded the treatment he
received from the commander of the Spanifli (hips. The part the Iphigenia and
Felice bore in connet^iug thcfe detached furvcys, arc recited at large ia tlie
pages of this volume^ ,
The Wafliington entered the Straits of John de Fucn, the knowledge of
\yhich (he had received from us; and, penetrating up them, entered into an
extenfive fea, where ftie fteeretl to tlie Northward and Eaftward, and had com-
munication with the various tribes who hihabit the (hores of the numerous
iflands that are (ituated at the back of Nootka Sound, and fpeak, with fome little
variation, the language of the Nootkan people. The track of this veflel is
marked on the map, and is of great moment, as it now completely afcertaina
that Nootka Sound, and the parts adjacent, are iflands, and comprehended
within, the Great Northern Archipelago. The fea alfo, which is feen to the
Eaft, is of great extent; and it is from this ftatioaary point, and the mod
Wefl^rly parts of Hudfon's Bay, that we form an eftimate of the diftance be-
tween them.
The moft Eafterly direction of the Wafhington's courfe is to the longitude cf
237° Eaft of Greenwich It is probable, however, that the mafterof that veflTel
did not make any aftronomical obfervations to give a juft data of that ftation ;
but as we have thofe made by Captain Cook at Nootka Sound, we may be able
to form a conjedure fomewhat approaching the truth, concernit)g the diftance
between Nootka and theEaftcrnmoft ftation of theWafhington in the Northern
Archipeiago; ard, crnfequently, this ftation may be prefumed to be iu
the longitude, or thereabouts, of 237° Eaft of Greenwich. The afcer-
tained longitude of Fort Churchill is 94° 12' 30", Weft of Greenwich;
and, of courfe, the diftance between the Wafhington's moft Eafterly ftation is
1020 geographic miles ; and, by the fame calculation, from Hudfon's Houfe
660. geographic milps ; and in the diredion of Eaft by North : but whether
-^M-^'-''""
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, iic
IrU
the intermediate part between thefe fixed points be fea, river, or land, is a
queftion that muft be left to the refult of future difcovery. • • " '
■i' ■:■■'/
Thus has been unveiled the whole of the American coaft, particularly
thofe parts between the latitudes of 50° and 55° North, and 47' and 48*
North; and furely this furvey gives room for fomething more than conjec-
ture on the fiibjcft. It will teach us alfo to pay fome attention to the account of
former navigators ; fince thofe relations of fome of them which have not
only been fufpcded, but abfolutdy determined to be errors or fictions, now turn
©lit to be real difcoveries.
Thcfe particulars are fiut]>'"ully extracted from nautical journals, and may be
confidcred as intetelting ahv , as they relate to the American commerce. It will,
indeed, be for the honour of this country to bring thefe refearches to a conclu-
fion ; for though it has been a received opinion that it would be in vain to look for a
paflage in Hudfon's Bay to the Southward of 67° latitude ; and when we find held
out to our view how much more Northerly (hips muft hold their courfe, at leaft fome
part of their voyage, before they can pafs from one fide of America to theothe
yet may not the fea feen by Mr. Hearne he that very higheft point ? — May not
the Northern Archipelago, the Straits of John de Fuca, and Cook's River, all
firetching to the North Eaft— fome of them being more Eaft ward than this fea —
maynot thefe be the very paflages ? — Is it not poflible that this very fea, feen by
Mr. Hearne to pufli boldly into Hudfon's Bay, or the Southernmoft part of Baf-
fin's Bay, be fome inlet or paflage to the Northward of 67° ?
If the corroborating proofs of former writers are brought forward, — if the
having a knowledge that from the Copper-Mine River the Indians of Prince
' "llUam's Sound and the Northern Archipelago procure their copper ; — if from
the Indians thcmfelves we arc informed that great waters, free from ice, ftretch
themfelves to the Northward ; — if thefe particulars can be fuppofed to have any
weight, how much will it be encrcafcd when it is known that fhips have reached
^i between
'k
Mil OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
between 6i and 63 degrees of latitude In Cook's Ktver, where a navigable ftrait,
of confiderable extent, appeared to their view, free from ice or impediments of
any kind ; and where the rife and fall of the tide was fo great, that there muft be
other extenfive channels for the reception of the waters, which can only be to the
Eaft.
In no part of the year is ice found In Cook's River ; — Mr. Hearne faw none in
his fea, except on the margin of the fliores, which may have accumulated there
from the influx of frefli fprings, &c. — The Weftern fea of America is alfo at all
times navigable and free from ice, as far as we can afcertain, to the latitude of
64° North.
1 rr
rj
There is but one circumftance more before we clofe what we have to offer in
favour of a North Weft paffage, open to the purpofe of navigation.— If, there-
fore, we caft our eyes on the general map of the world, particularly on the
Northern portion of it to the Eajiy we find laid down on the chart that great extent
of land bounded by Baffin's Bay, yet unexplored.— In the Weft we perceive
that portion of terra firma, within the ar(5lic circle, bounded by ice, which
feparates Afia from America, and which flopped the progrels of Captain Cook ; —
let us then caft our eyes on that part of the fea feen by Mr. Hearne, and recon-
cile, If we can, the poffibility of its being any partof tlie P'rozen Ocean which
we Imagine to flow round thofe lands that arc thought to reach to the Pole. —
If it is the Frozen Ocean, to whr.t htight of latitude muft the land of Baffin's
Bay ftretch ? — In what latitude the Weftern portion fo bounded by fea ? — We
muft either prefume that thefe lands do not reach to the Pole, if this is the
Frozen Sea ; or if we conclude that they do, then the fea feen by Mr. Hearne
can be no other than the ftrait, or identical paffage between the two oceans.
Can It be fuppofed that the Efqulmaux round with their canoes cither
Baffin's land or the Weftern portion to arrive at this fea. Should it not rather
be believed that thofe people come from the Weftern fide for the copper and
« the
•uMaMMiiitiiWi' 111 limjjteit til III -Mil
A NORTH WEST PASSAG^ Uc. Ik
the whale ; and that this creature himfelf had made his paiTage through thofc
ytry channels which had conveyed the roving tribe here from Cook's River,
Prince William's Sound, or the Northern Archipelago. And if this idea is
reje£led, let it be alked finally, by what Tea and by which navigation did the
whale come into Mr. Hearne's lea ; whether did he take his courfe round Baf-
fin's land, or boldly pulh through the barrier of ice feen by Captain Cook,
and which is fuppofed to extend to the Northern pole of the world. Here he
is oppofed and rcpulfed, nor do we believe that he ever got round the land of
Baffin. We arc bold enough, however, to hazard an opinion, that this fea
feen in 72°, or placed by others in 6S° 30' ; or, according to Peter Pond, in 65%
is no other than that part of the communicaticn between the Northern Pacific and
Atlantic Oceans wliich empties itfelf either in Baffin's, or Hudfon's Bay ; and
that through thefe channels, which are fufliciently deep and capacious for
navigation, the whale and other huge marine animals find a fafe and eafy
paflTage. . •' *> . ' , . wi;.!.; v; 1- ■■■ .■ .- , . i
The Indians feen by Mr. Hearne, and who were deflroyed by the party
that conduftcd him through his dreary route, were, in all probability, a part of
a tribe of the Weftern fide, on an expedition to the mines to procure copper .-«
Perhaps they were inhabitants of Cook's River. — Copper abounds amongft thefe
numerous tribes; — it is the medium of barter with their more Southern neigh>
hours. We have leen in their poflfeffion mafles of confiderable weight from the
mines, and of extreme fiuenefs. They told us that they went far Northward
for it, and found the ore in the earth, fcattered about, and, as we underftood
them, thrown up by a volcano from the fea. — Tlie Indians feen by Mr. Hearne
were Efquimaux, agreeing in manners and cuftoms, and inheriting all that
tnii'ery of this extenfive tribe, which is perceived on the Wcftern Coaft of
/\merica, as far South as to the latitude of 50° North. ' ' . •" '
It has been faid that the Spanifh navigator, Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle
in 1775, vlfited that part of the continent of America not ken by Cap-
Hz tain
ftHliliMil
^--tfif—^sm-:
IX OBSERVATIOiV'S ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
tain Cook In his progrefs to the Northward ; and that this voyage, therefore^
Is peculiarly Interefting to navigation, as he pronounces that no fuch flraits are
to be found as thofe of De Fuca, or fuch an Archipelago as that of Admiral
De Fonte. ■tj/ .!• •. • ■ -v .= • i . i»:w. i -i .v. ^i^'fj
V I
1
oi
The particulars of this voyage, kept fo fecret by the Court of Spain, has beert
communicated to the world by that truly refpe£lable, philofophic and learned
gentleman, the Honourable Mr. Daines Harrington. Its fuppofed merits for
fome time flood the teft of critlcifm. — It received an additional authority after
the return of our laft circumnavigators, as it favoured their opinions that no.
credit was to be given to the fuppofed difcoveries of De Fonte or De Fuca,
which were now determined to be nothing more than the romance of a for-
mer century, or thefI«£lion of an enthufialllc mind. j :
nu'/i
In our turn, we do not hefitate to pronounce, that no attention whatever is
to be paid to the charts of Mr. Maurelle, as totally contrary to truth and fa(fV,
They give no idea of the real pofition of the Coaft of America ; and, ofcourfe,
involve the journals of the fame navigator, from whence they have been drawn,
in their own mifreprefentations. There is no method more ready or more deci-
five, than to compare the chart of Maurelle's voyage, with the chart of Captain
Cook, or that which has been prepared from the voyage of the F(flice and the
Iphigenia, and which comprehend all the difcoveries made by other Britifh
navigators who have vifited the American Coaft. Mr. MaureUe*3 chart will
then have abided a fair trial, and ofcourfe receive the judgment it deferves.
i
We have now ftated fully, explicitly, and, we hope, withoiUS ^efumption,
the different points which have given rife to our belief in the exiftence of a
North Weft paflage. - ' ; ,!
An argument on which fo much depends, requires every aid to fupport it
that can be derived from any corroborating teftimony ; yet we fhall not attempt
to
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, Vc
hi
to mention fuch as may be doubtful, however favourable they may be to our
general purpofe, without expreffiiig our hefitation as to their authenticity.
Thus, if Mr. Peter Pond's difcoveries were fatisfaftorily authenticated, they would
operate powerfully in our favour, as they would materially correft the route of
Mr. Hearne, by altering the fea fcen by that gentleman in 72* to 65", and
confequently leave a ready and open communication between Cook's River and
that fea ; and, perhaps the liime in Baffin's or Hudfon's Bay ; but we are
ready to acknowledge tiiat we are not without our doubts refpeding Mr. Pond;
as his account, however, is in every body's hands, we fhall leave its claim to
credibility exatfVly in the fame ftate iu which we found it. -
But there is an author of great refpedability, whofe observations we have
already quoted, to whom we fliall be indebted for further afHAance ; and
as he ftates clearly the ancient accounts of the exiftence of the Archipelago of
Saint Lazarus, and the Straits of John de Fuca, we rely with certainty on them,
and arc thus enabled, by his previous labours, to leflen our own. We (hall only,
therefore, with his afliftance, ftate a few leading points, to (hew the grounds on
which we reft our belief of the exiftence of thefe places, which have been attri-
buted by very learned men to the impoHtion of fome, and the ignorance of
others.
* .,1' ' »■- =
This author obfervcs, that recent navigators have found an archipelago of
iflaiids, and the ftrongeft indications of a large river, where fuch are defcribed
by Admiral de Fonte : and this, he adds, gives countenance to that too haftily
exploded narration.— We have, it is true, old traditions or narratives of the
Archipelago of De Fonte, and the Straits of De Fuca, in Hacluit, Purchas and
Harris, but on what grounds, or from what difcoveries, is at prefent wrapped
in obfcurity. But Mr. Dalrymple comes armed with better authority,—
and informs, us that the Burgomafter Witfon, in his fecond edition of theNord
and OrtTartarye, in 1705, fays he had in liis pofTeftion the original manufcript
ot
ill
Ixit OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
of the account of the celebrated navigator De Fonta, and not De Fonte, having
furveyed Terra del Fuego in 1649.— This circumftance goes very far to prove
that fuch a perfon did exift ; and we may confequently form an opinion, that
if he performed one voyage in 1649, '^^' ^^ might have accompliflied the other
as recited by Purchas, &c. in 1640; and the recent difcoveries of this very
Archipelago ferves to countenance this opinion. But be this as it may, and
whatever authority may be due to Burgomafter Witfon, we are ready to vouch
for the Northern Archipelago being in tlie fame fpot as that of De Fonta.
The account of the Straits of De Fuca is no lefs extraordinary. — A very
curious piece of intelligence is communicated by him, on the authority of the
■Right Honourable Mr. Greville, who received it from Sir John Macpherfon, to
whom it was related by fome Spaniards at the Cape of Good Hope; who in-
formed Sir John tliat, very lately, an entrance in the latitude of 47" 45' North
was found, which conveyed them in twenty-feven days inco the vicinity of
Hudfon's Bay ;— what can be faid to fuch extraordinary intelligence ?
John de Fuca, according to Mr. Hacluit, was a Greek pilot, who in 1592,
failed into an inlet of great breadth, between the latitudes of 47° and 48°,
which led him into a far broader Tea, wherein he failed twenty days, and
arrived in the Atlantic Ocean. — He defcribcs a great head-land or iflaud, with
an exceedingly high pinnacle rock placed near it, which is, in all pi-obability,
the very iiland or headland whereon our friend Tatootchs has !iis town and
fortrefs; and as to the pinnacle rock, we have had ocular demonftration of its
being placed in the entrance of this fca, as well as tlie great iiland or headland
which we have particularized in the voyage of the Felice in that latitude.
De Fuca, it feems, communicated this information to Mr. Lock, when
that gentleman was at Venice, and offered to perform the voyage, on condition
of receiving 60,000 ducats. — The venerable and parfimoni.us miniilers of
Queen Elizabeth, amongd whom was Cecil, refufed : Mr. Lociw being unable,
out
.A--
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, tic, Uii
out of his own private fortune, to reward the pilot, the matter dropped,
though he continued to keep up a conilant correfpondence with him. — ^AfFairs
taking another turn, it was determined to employ the pilot, and Lock went to
Italy in order to bring him to England ; when, on his arrival, he found that
the pilot had died a (hort time before. Such is the account given by Hacluit,
Purchas, &c. and adopted by all nautical hiftorians lince their time.
It is no lefs curious that another man who was at Portugal about thr fame
time, flibuld have publiftied a book, treating cf a North Weft paflage, and
ftating that he had pan*ed through it. This book was fupprelTed by the Court
of Lifbon. — But to corroborate and ftrengthen my own aflerlions, I bring the
authority of Captain Barclay's officers, &c. who faw every particular which I
declare to have fecn, — having furveyed thefe parts in a boat,— though he him-
felf did not go within Tome leagues of the flrait: — It is alfo to be remarked, that
the Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan, faw them alio ; and finally, we offer the
proofs brouglit by the Wafhington, which failed through a fea that extends
upwards of 8 degrees of latitude.
In reading the accounts of the ancient voyagers, we were forcibly ftruck with
the refemblance between the inhabitants as defcribed by John de Fuca, and
thofe with which we had a communicatioiK — Amongft many particulars we
will feleft one, which is diretftly in point ; independent of their being cloathed
in furs and bears (kins, as he mentions them, he goes on to tell us, that they
bind their childrens' heads between two boards when very young, which prac-
tice gives the head the form of a fugar-Ioaf ; and in our account of the people
of Nootka, this cuftom has been particularly remarked, and we reckon Tatootche
among »^he number of Nootkan Princes. — The latitude in which we found this
ftrait placi;d, certainly differs from t^at in which the old authors have laid it
down ; but that may be eafily accounted for, from the great difference between
the crofs flaff, which was the aflronomical inftrument of Columbus, and our
quadrant ; — and we believe, even a few years back, our navigators did not at-
tend
i ■)
Ixlv OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
f
tend fufficiently to even the correftions neceffary for the fun's declination,
which will alfo produce a great difference of calculation.
\<y--
L^'lh
It
Another account of a former date, relative to this paflage, muft not be
omitted, which is the voyage of Thomas Pechc, as given by Mr. Dalrymple. —
He relates that he failed up the Strait of Anian, 120 leagues, in 1676, intend-
ing to return to England that way ; but the montli of 0£lober being well ad-
vanced, and the winds Northerly, — which, by the bye, we obferved to be alway*
the cafe, — he returned back, and coafting Calitornia, New Spain and Peru,
came into the North fea by the ftraits of Magellan, 1677.— He found from Cape
Mendocino on California, the current fet to the North Eaft for more than 20
leagues within the channel : — But where thefe ftraits are fituated, it Is ditficult
to judge from the fliort account given of this man's voyage.
It would only encreafe uncertainty, and involve enquiry in greater per-
plexity, if we were to enter upon an examination of the interior geograpliy of
this part of America. There are, it is true, charts formed of it, but it is im-
pofllble we can refign our judgment to them ; — it is fo eafy to fill up fpaccs
with imaginary lakes and rivers, that .only tend to miflead us ; and though
the Arathapefcow Lake bears all the marks of authenticity, yet we know nor,
from any refpe£table authority, that its fituatlon is aftronomically fixed.
We muft beg leave to add one more conje»flure, which is that of Mr. Dal-
rymple, and in which I perfeftly coincide, that the Lake de Fonte may be the
identical Lake Arathapefcow ; which, if that (hould be the cafe, communicates
with the Northern Pacific Ocean : and the Arathapefcow Lake, according to two
Indian manufcript charts in the poffefiion of the company, pofleflcs a commu-
nication with Hudfon's Bay ;— a circumftance which hidiices Mr. Dalrymple
to remark, with his ufual fagacity, that it would be highly expedient to
examine what obftruftions there are to navigate thither; for this lake Is
reported by Mr. Hearne, — from the information of the Indians, — to be
about
A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, W^ 10
•
about 400 miles in length.-— He is alfo of opinion, that the moft effcaual me-
thod of making this examination, would be from the Arathapefcow Lake, which
by tlie obfervation of the longitude of Hudfon's houfc, appears to be much
nearer Hudfon's houfe than Mr. Hearnc's map rcprefents it. — Indeed, though
that gentleman has much merit for his enterprifing fpirit and painful refearches,
he has left much yet to be done ; for it could not be fuppofcd that Mr. Hearne
could poffibly be qualified to form & chart of fucli extcnfivc regions which
Ihould be definitive.
i»
11!
^1
It may alfo be obfcrvcd that the Iludlon's Bay Company have an houfe
in ^^° o' 32" North, and longitude '06'' 27' 20" Weft, which is above 530
geographic miles from their neareft fcttlcmint in the Bay ; the diflance*
therefore, to complcat the communication between that place and Nootka,
is above ;co geographic miles. On tlie autliority of Mr. Turner the Hud-
fon Bay Company's furveyor, the Indians report that the river continues
to be navigable as far above Hudfon's houfe as below it, and that it is as eafy
a navigation as that of the Thames, there not being one fill or rapid, after
pafling that near VVinlpig Lake, in a courfe of more than 200 miles ; but it is
probable that the communication between Hudfon's Bay and the Weft Coaft of
America would, with more facility, be made in an h'glier latitude, by means
of the Chefterfield inlet, or fome of the inlets and rivers from Hudfon's Bav,
connefting with the Arathapefcow, Dobaunt and other lakes.
Of the navigation of the Weftern fide of America we are clear and decided,
as well as of thofe inlets, great founds, and openings of the fea at the back of
Nootka. — And as to the Eaftern fide of the continent, — though, as yet, we have
nothing but conjefture in favour of the belief tliat either through Hudfon's Bay,
or the Southern parts of Baffin's Bay, navigable Inlets may be found to
communicate with the Eaftern Pacific Ocean,— one circumftance is clear
in our favour, which is, that we have the moft inconteftable proof that
the geography of Hudfon's Bay is but yet iraperfeftly known, and that with
^ Baffin's
1 '
iO
1 1
h
l«vi OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCE OF
Baffin's Bay we are wholly unacquainted ; fo that the idea of the difcovery of a
North Wefl: Paflage ftill continues to have a reafonable foundation. — And we
truft that the Cervants of the Hudfoii's Bay Company will conquer every
averHon, we are informed they have hirhcrto pofleflTed, to thofc Northern
expeditions ; which may, at length, end in the difcovery of a North Weft
Paflage.
!
SOME
L
■MMMUr-
SOME
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
BliTWEEN THE
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, AND CHINA, &c. &c.
W
I
T muft afford a very animating fatisfaftion to every patriot mind, that
the trade and commerce of this country are gradually extending themfelves
over every part of the globe ; and that from the encouragement given by wife
minifters, and the entcrprifing fpirit of opulent merchants, every corner of the
earth where the winds blow and the fea rolls its waves, will, fooner or later, be
explored, to encreafe the wealth, the power, and the profpeiity of the Britifli
Empire.
To Captain Cook, among other great and public benefits, we are indebted
for the commerce of the North Weft Coaft of America, and its profitable
application to the China market ; a commerce, which when more known, and
of courfe more cultivated, will, we doubt not, prove of the firft advantage to
this country.
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hyiii ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
The riches which the immenfe Southern Pacific Ocean ofFers to the adven*
turous I'pirit of trade, is far beyond the prefcnt conceptions of it ; and the
empires of China and Japan may not only become new fources of commer-
cial advantage to this kingdom, in the exports of her manufa£lures, but prove
the means of encreafing her maritime ftrength ; and thereby aggrandizing,
in the moft ample manner, the power of the Britifti Empire.
In the preceding pages, which contain our obfervations on the probable exift-
ence of a North Wtft Pafliige, fome account is given of the fcveral adventurer*
to the North Weft Coaft of America fince thedifcovery of its valuable com-
merce by Captain Cook. The fate of them, as it generally happens in all new
fchemes of adventure, has been varioufly unfuccefsful.— Two of the fmall
number of (hips which have failed thither, have been wrecked, and others
have proved unfortunate cither from tlie bad management or ignorance of
their conduftors ; from whence a very falfe idea has arifcn, that the trade of
the North Weft Coaft of America is an unprodudive bufinefs.
v\
ii
i' I
Other opinions have been propagated which are extremely unfavourable to
the adventurers who have engaged" iu this commerce. It has, indeed, been
boldly aflerted, and by many as confidently believed, that they have been
engaged in a contraband trade on the American Coaft. — It muft, indeed, be
extremely mortifying to thofe gentlemen whofe patriotic and commercial
fpirit has led them into fuch adventurous undertakings, to find, that in addition
to the great lofles they have fuftained, their characters, as fair and honeft
merchants, are attacked and calumniated : but the accufation, which fprings
either from envy or ignorance, is founded in falOiood, — and will, we truft,
find a refutation in the commercial arrangements of thofe voyages which occupy
the preceding pages of this volume.
The moft immediate articles hitherto imported from America, have been the
fea*otter Ikln, and furs of an inferior value, of which we have every reafon to
fuppoie
^ »
— — ^^^.
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
Ixis
fuppofe there will prove a very great abundance, whenever the induftry of the
natives (hall be duly excited to extend their coUe^lion of them. — BeHdes it (hould
be obferved, that this trade is in an infant (late, and has been hitherto carried on
only, as it were, in the vicinity of the American Ihores ; — as thofe parts which
]?ave been already vifited, are not, as has been imagined, the coafts of the conti*
nent, but an archipelago of iflands, forming a kind of barrier to it. When, there-
fore, a commercial communication is opened with the continent itfelf, which there
is every reafon to fuppofe is numeroufly inhabited, a great and very valuable
fource of commerce will be unfolded to our country ; forming a chain of trade
between Hudfon's Bay, Canada, and the North Weft Coaft of America.
The articles hitherto employed in the purchafe of American furs, &c. arc
in themfelves but of fmall value, when compared with the prices which thefe
furs obtain at China and other markets ; but when the expence of conveying
thcni to their deftination is taken into the account, their acq^uired value is of
no trifling confideration.
The firft adventurers employed iron, beads, glafs and Indian gewgaws its
the medium of barter ; but they who fuccccded them added Britilh Woollens
to the trade, and wliolc villages of American natives were fcen clad in blankets,
and decorated with every article of Eugli(h drefs. Indeed, after fome time,
the Indians became fo fond of woollen articles, that no commercial engagement
could be formed with thefe people in which they did not form the command-
ing inducement. The fea-otter Ikin may be a more beautiful and warmer
garment, but it is infinitely more cumberlbme than the blanket ; which, when
once adopted, was preferred in the mcft decided manner, from a fenfe of
fuperior convenience ; and refpedling the articles of European drefs for which
their fimple fancy or a love of novelty might be fuppofed to impel their choice,
they might be fo varied as to keep awak« thofe prepoflelFions till they become
habits, whofe calls muft be fupplicd by Britiih manufadurcs.
■m
The
Ixx
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
)!'
i'l
14
The number of people to the Southward of Nootka Sound, ai far as the
latitude of 45° or 46% amounts at leaft to near ilxty thoufand. The calcula-
tion is made from the number of villages, each of which contains from
fix to nine hundred inhabitants. To the Northward of Nootka, as far as the
latitude of 61°, they are much more numerous ; it may therefore be rcafonably
concluded, that the line of fea coaft on the Weftern fide of this Archipe-
lago, without adverting to the Eaftern fide, poffefles upwards of an hundred
thoufand people ; which, after all, forms no very great degree of population
for fuch an extenfive length of country. '
Something like a correal eftimate may, therefore, be made of the advantages
that would arife from fupplying fuch a number of people with Britifh ma-
nufaftures, by calculating the probable exports, which, in this early ftage of
the North Weft American commerce, might be made from this country of
coarfe woollens, iron, cutlery, manufa£tured copper and tin ; which, in par-
ticular, when worked up into the various articles in which it is commonly em-
ployed, would form an immediate, as well as a very confiderable export, as on
feveral parts of the coaft it was found to be the favourite objeft of the Indian
market. It is, by no means, neceflary to obferve, that in proportion as the
manners of thefe people improved, and their civilziation advanced, all thefe
commercial articles would find an encreafing demand.
The exports of America will condft of furs of the following fpecies • —
The fea-otter, the different kinds and qualities of which have been particularly
defcribed in the voyage of the Felice ; — the beaver, marten, fable, river-otter,
—called by the natives capuca, — the ermine, foxes of different kinds, and par-
ticularly that whofe (kin is of a jetty black ; -r- gr^y* white and red
wolves, wolvereens, marmots, racoons, bears, mountain-flieep, whofe fleece is
of extreme length and finenefs, with the common and the moofe-deer or elk.
The
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA. Ixil
The fea-otter, though an amphibioui animal, might, perhaps, have been
more corredtly clafled among the fea-furs ; for it is the peculiar happineft
of this country, that the fea which waflies its coafts, (hares with the land
the plenty of commercial produce. The furred feal, fea-cow, fea-lion, the
fpeckled feal and common feal abound there.
Ginfeng might alfo become a very valuable article of American export ; for
although it has not hitherto been found in great abundance iti the vicinities
of Nootka, the Northern parts, more particularly the fliores of Cook's River,
produce it in inexhauftible plenty. The ginfeng of this part of America is far
preferable to that of the Eaftern fide, and approaches nearer to that of China,
which is univerfally conHdered of a very fuperior quality to the beft ginfeng
of European exportation.
.1
But the moft valuable branch of commerce, which is offered fpontaneoufly
by the North Weft American Coafts, is the Whale Fifliery, which may be
carried on to any extent. As thofe fifli, both of the black and fpermaceti
kind, are univerfally abundant in thofe feas, with other marine animals,
which yield an oil of a very fuperior quality. And here I (hall beg leave to
offer fome obfervations on the probable advantages which may be derived to
Great Britain from this fifhery, not only in the Northern but the Southern
Oceans ; the former abounding with the black whale, and the latter with the
fpermaceti fpecies.
Thefe Fifheries are of fuch exUnt, reaching from Cape Horn to the Line,
as, with that of the North Weft Coaft of America, to be capable of employ-
ing feveral thoufand tons of (hipping. Even in its infant ftate, one hundred
fail at leaft, each veflbl having thirty men on board, might be employed in
this valuable branch of commerce. Of a (hip's company, according to this^
regulation, I (hould fuppofe that twenty would be feamen, or people acquainted
with the bufmefs of the fifhcry, and that the remainder would be boys appren-
ticed,
J \
d
-*»■ J»\r» tartf** ■■'
ii'<*iii(ni n iiH
lull
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
\(:
ticed, or landmen, wlio are frequently received on board, and employed in thefe
voyages : The number of feamcn amounting in the whole to three thoufand.
Nor can it be I'uppofed that this commerce, conduced under the influence of
Britifli liberty and the fpirit of Britifli merchants, would not encreafe. Indeed,
the acquilltiotis of it are fo favourable to our own manufa£lurcs, and in fuch
continual demand from foreign countries, that to fupply the home and foreign
confumption of its feveral articles, would prove a moft advantageous extenfion
of the trade and navigation of Great Britain. But another important benefit
%vill refult alfo from thefe fiihcries ; they will very greatly enlarge that niirfcry
of feamen which may be confidered as the mine of Britifli ftrength and glory. —
Nor do I heiitate to foretell, that if this branch of commerce is left free, and is
not fuffered to be fliackled by chartered privileges and legal monopolies, that it
will, in a very fliort time, make fucli returns, as to difcharge Goveruracnt
from the expenfive encouragements of drawbacks and bounties.
, V-
}
It would be prefumption in me to recommend any fyftem of regulations for
the due condu<fl, controul and encouragement of thefe fiflieries, when fuch
abilities and commercial knowledge as is poflefTed by Lord Hawke(bury, en-
lightens the proceedings of that branch of tlie adminiftration which appropriates
its labour and attention to the trade of our country; but I fliall, neverthelefs,
take the liberty to fuggeft, that each fhip employed in this commercial fervice,
fliould be obliged to have on board fix or eight apprentices, who fliould be
limited with refpetSl to age. If eight in number, four of them fliould not be
more than ten or twelve years of age ; — two others fliould not exceed fourteen
years, and the retnainder might be confined within the age of fixteen. The
term of their apprenticefliip fliould not be extended beyond five years. — It would
be needleffi to explain the utility and advantage of fuch an arrangement.
The navigation of thefe feas is mofl: admirably adapted to form a fchool of
maritime experience, while its peculiar fafety is equally calculated to encourage
mercantile fpeculation. — Nor fliould it be pafled by without obfervation, tliat
J-.. fliips
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
Iixtit
fliips employed in the fifliery or fur trade, may always depend upon fuch
abundant fupplles of almoft every kind, as not only to furnilh a plenteous va-
riety of that wholefome food, but alfo to become an obje£l of commercial con-
fideration, while the Sandwich Iflands offer a ilation for intermediate rcpofe,
where health animates the gales, and every fpecici of refreshment is to be found
on the ihores.
li^
The various articles of trade, botli of an import and export nature, in this
new region ofcrvimercc, which might be coiifidered as attending upon our
entrance into it, have already been mentioned; at the fame time we ought to
keep in view, as an obje£l of a great future advantage, thofe mines which are
known to lie between the latitudes of 40' and 60" North, and which may here-
after prove a raoft valuable fource of commerce between America and China.—
But to give them cfleA, as well as to forward other beneficial purpoies,
cftablifhments muft be formed, for which the North Weft Coaft of America
offers a mild climate and a fruitful foil, where grain of every fpecies may be
cultivated with a fmall portion of induftiious exertion, particularly in the
vicinity of Nootka, and in the country of New Albion.
Such is the general account we have it in our power to communicate of the
commerce of that part of America which has fo lately been unfolded to us.
We fhall now proceed to difcover the conne£lion it has hitherto formed with
China, together with the profpetfl of opening a trading intercourfe with
Japan ; which, if revived, and there is no doubt of the poffibility of fuch an
event, might, in due time, become an objetfl of the firfV importance to the mer-
cantile intereft of this country. . •. ' .
> J'
The furs obtained by the feveral adventurers to the North Weft Coaft of
America, have been carried to the Canton market, where they were fold at
very high prices.— The circumftance of fupplying this market with American
furs, has proved the means of opening a channel of trade between England
^ and
I
■ •
I i
i
1!^
Ixxiv
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
h)
ii
.k
and China, for the Canadian and Hudfon Ray furl, which had not hitherto
been attempted. — ^Thcfc furs alfo fold extremely well, ' ". i ^ . *
The commerce between Great Britain and the Empire of China, is altoge-
ther of fuch importance, that an invcftlgation of thofe caufes which ope-
rate to continue the balance of trade againfl us, and which may lead
to a difcovery of the means not only to diminifh that balance, but to
turn it in our favour, will, I trud, be favourably received by the public ;
and, in a particular manner, by that great commercial body, the Henourable
£aft India Company. — It is, indeed, but judice to declare, that much ha»
already been done by them; at the fame time truth compels me to obferve,
that much yet remains to be done, not only in giving every pof)ible aug-
mentation to the exports of this country, but in opening new channels of
commerce, whenever and wherever opportunity offers to accomplifli fuch a
defirable object.
In purfuing the general outline of this fubjeA, and we do not profefs to
be fo minutely informed as to engage in a minute difcufTion of it, we (haJl
clafs the commerce of China under the following heads: —
Firft. The trade between China and Ruflia, by land ; in which may be
included the North Weftern commerce by fc-a, as the principal llaple com-
modities are chiefly furs, in which England participates, from the large quan-
tity of the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs fent from this country to Ruflia,
and from thence, by the RuiTian merchants, by a long and circuitous \.md
carriage to Pekin,
Secondly. The commercial connection between Great Britain and China.
Thirdly. The commerce between foreign nations with the country powers
in India and China. ; .
I k
FETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
Ix«t
ft is not neceflary for me, were it in my power, to defcribe the vaft extent of
the Chinefe Empire, and the ftate of its prodigious population. It is fufficieat
to obferve tliat fuch a country, and fuch a people, would form a commercial
alliance of the firft magnitude with Great Britain. The Cnglilh certainly enjoy
tiie far greater part of the import trade at Canton ; but tlic whole Eurppeaii
commerce, which, of courfe, involves our own, labours beneath very oppreffive*
and encreadng difadvantages. Nor can I undcrfland upon what principle of
found policy we continue to fubmit to the will and pleafure of the Chinefe go-
vernment, in our commercial concerns with it*
If we were to form our opinions of the general chara£ler of the inhabitants
of China from tliofo who inhabit the banks of tlie Canton River, it would be
doing them a great injufticc. A trading fi-a-port, which offers little or no other
communication tliaii with Cudom-houfc officers, brokers, and the inferior rank
of tradefmen, docs not qualify the voyager to judge of the nation to which it
belongs ; but, forming our opinion from tliofe who have had opportunities of
vifiting the interior parts of China, we are .difpofed to believe that the Chi-
nefe are a liberal, enlightened and poliOied people, and that they profefs them-
felves of fuch a character. It cannot therefore be fuppoied, if an AmbaiTa-
dor was fent to China from this country, with all the appropriate accompany-
ments of fucfa a charaQer, that he would not be received with fuitable refpeft
and dignity.
Various are the opprefllons which affliA our commerce with .. iart of the
Eaft, and it would require, perhaps, confummate (kill in the arts of negociation,
as well as a complete knowledge of the commercial hiftory of China, and of
the temper of the people, to bring any liberal arrangement of commerce be-
tween the two nations to a conclufion. The Chinefe are well acquainted
with the power of Great Britain, and they regard it with very confiderable
apprehenfion. I relate it as an incontrovertible fail, that the Hoppo or Vice-
Roy of Canton, in the year 1789, in his ufual information to the Court at
^ » ' Pekin,
i^'
I
.iHl}
-■at^W;^^^
liivi
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
S
Pekin, tranfmitted a falfe account of the European (hipping at his port. The
encreaHng number of them, particularly thofe of the Englifh nation, was
rather an alarming circumftance to the minifterial officers at Canton ; and had
the Emperor been informed of it, tliey would have been fubjeft to his dif'
pleafure, from the fuppofed danger of fufFcring fuch an aflemblage of foreign
veflels. But they huflied their own fears, and fatisficd their patriotic (cru-
pies, by remitting the ulual revenues aiifnig from foreign trade to the Royal
treafury, and configning the encroafed collctftion of duties to their own
coffers.
At this port, as if it were contrived to fhackle and opprcfs the European
commerce, every tranfaiflion, of a commercial nature, comes under the jurif-
didtion of a body of merchants, confining of eleven perfons, or more, who arc
named the Hung, or the Houang. ' •
On the arrival of a (hip at Canton, one of thcfc merchants is appointed to
condu£l all her commercial concerns. He is then termed the fccurity mer-
chant, and every trading tranfac'^ion, relative to the veflel over which he is
placed, entirely depends upon his controuling pleafure.— With this extraor-
dinary authority, he polTcflcs the power of arranging the trade of the cargo
which he fupcrintends, in any fhape that may beft anfwcr liis private .id-
vantage. If, therefore, it Ihould appear to he his intcreft to prevent the im-
ported articles from coming to an equitable market, he will, by no means,* con-
fider the importer, but himfelf. For the native who wants to buy, and the'
ilranger who wants to f(.ll, can have no communication with each otiier. — It is
this ftrangc oppreflive, intermediate official mcrch.nnt, who a.fls for both, and to
whofe arbitrary dictates both muft (ubmit, without any means of revifion or
of appeal. While this fet of men remain in their prefent (late of power,
the imports can never come to a fair market, or the exports be reduced by
competition to an equal ftandard. . ; ... .,i,.j„
The
a-
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
ItxrW
The greater as well as inferior Mandarins or Cuftom-houfe officers, fubjed
the Houang merchants, in their turns, to heavy impofitions, for which thelattef
reimburfe themfelves, by levying contributions on the European commerce*
All goods entered at Canton pay a ve.*^ exorbitant duty in the firft inflance ;-«
and if their owner Ihould exercifc the power which he has of objecting to tht
Houang merchant's price, he neverthelefs cannot rcembark a fingle article of
them : as merchandize once landed at the port of Canton, can never be re*
moved from thence, but by the native trader who may purchafe it, A greater
check on the fpirit of commerce cannot be well conceived than fuch a ty*
rannical regulation. ,,, ,, ,
The duties, at this port, have long been in a (late of progreflTve encreafe,.
and have, within thefe few years, advanced to 50 per cent.— The a£tual
amount of tiicm being no longer paid into the Royal treafury, for the rea*
Tons already mentioned, the Mandarins are become more and morej avaricious,
in proportion as the revenue from the duties eucreafes ; and, as they are
impofed at the plcafure of the Hoppo or Vice-Roy, he contrives to accumulate
an immcnfc fortune during his adminiftration ; which, however, he is ob-
liged to fhare, ii> fome degree, with the miniflers at Pekin, in order to prevent
R difcovery of his extortions on the Europeans at Canton, r,., .
All (hips on their firft arrival, pay a certain meafurement, which is calcu-
lated by their tonnage, amounting to an heavy fum, and, within a few years,
has been greatly augmented. A fhip belonging to the Eaft India Company, pays,
I believe, from j^.Soa to ^\ 1 200. All goods muft be conveyed on fliore by the
boats of the country, fo that continual robberies are committed on the
cargoes fent for the ftiip to Canton^ which is diftant about fourteen miles ;
and ftpnge as it may feem, no remedy is to be found, or punifhment inflicted
■upon fuch open injuftice. The Houang man is the only pcrfon to whom an
European!
i
• i t
I
Wki.::
ACCOUVT Of TMk T11401
Evf^ao hu aceefi ; ib that th« Fofvign mtdkuu U hk m^ft^f ^ the mmrcjr
«f M agaat irhoie intcreft it u to opptrcA him tht Moft>
All European! are prohibited from entering the city of Canton ; and if any
fhould perfift in paying it a dandeftine vifit, ai fonie have dono, they are
feverely bambooed and turned back again. The Chinde call an European a
l^nquL
It muft, however, he oWerved, that the idea oftheHouang merchant* being
fecurity for each other, is entirely fallacious ;~for thefe commercial guardiaiu
tre fometimes known to become bankrupts, and many Europeans have fuilered
feverely by the failure of them. I have fbnie rcafou to imagine that the debts
due to Britifli merchants, and on which account Captain Panton in the Race-
horfe, was fent to Canton, are not yet liquidated ; and which, bebg incurred
by the failure of a very confiderable Houang merchant, evidently proves that
this body of men are not fecurity for each other. This debt amounted to
fome hundred thoufand pounds, part of M^ich has been paid by inftallments,
viiddi have been in a courfe of payment for the fpace of ten years, without
lnterfc(b— >This nwney has, however, in h€t been paid by the Europeans them-
felves ; as, in order to difcharge the debt, an additional duty has been laid on
all European articles, which ftill continues : and as Great Britain poflefles by
iu the greateft fliare of the China trade, (he fuffers proportionably in thefe
lieavy and accumulating impofitions.
This embafly did not greatly enhance the confequence of the Englifli nation
in the opinion of the Chinefe. — Lord Anfon and Captain Panton (lood in a
very different view of refpe£t and importance,— >not that I mean to be under-
ilood as if the latter gentleman was deficient in any of thoie requifites which
could give confequence or ef)e£t to his conuniffion ; on the contrary, he pof-
ieffiid them all,— but he was not, by any means, properly fupported, or cloathed
with
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A NOHTH WEST PASSAGE, «*f. . tad*
with that official confequence, neceflary to imprcfs the China people with a
due refpeA for, and awe of the country from which fee came*;
u
It is indeed a very evident, as well as mortifying proof, that the Englifh
name does not poflefs that confequence with the Chinefe, which it merits in
every country and corner of the globe, from their conduA towards the Eaft
Ipdia Company's fervants, who conflantly remove to the Portuguefe city of
Macao for feveral months of the year.
*
'&':!!
In the feafon of 1789, on the arrival of the Company's (hip in China, it
became neceiTary for the fupercargoes to remove, as ufual, to Canton ; on which
the accuftomed application was made to the Chinefe for the common formality of
permiffion.— This was, however, peremptorily refufed, on the pretence that this
application fhould be made through the Portuguefe, who refufed to exert them-
felves; and thereby the Portuguefe governor of Macao had the power of throwing
veryconfiderable impediments in the way of the Britifh commerce. This dif-
agreeable bufinefs was, however, at length fettled, but not without coufiderable
delay, and, in all probability, fome extortion. — But during this oppreiHve interval,
the valuable (hips of tlie Eaft India Company lay at anchor in the Bocca Tigris,
or at Wampoa, as they arrived, and without being able to procure the ufual re-
frefhments. Indeed the enormous fums conftantly paid for the removal
of the Company's fervants to and fmnj Canton, from whence they are forced
by the Chinefe, is not only a great commercial enormity, but a degrading
compliance on the part of Great Britain.
f
1V1
,,,, .,.
The Portuguefe alfo, in this diftant fettlement, alTume a language and coft-
dua to Britifti fubjecEls, which cannot be at all reconciled with the comparative
ftate of the ftrength, power and importance of their refpcftive nations. It is
no uncommon thing at Macao, for the Company's fervants to be imprifoned
and otherwife ill-treated on the flighteft pretences, and obliged to praVSlife fub-
miflions which the fervile avarice of commerce can alone induce them to fuffcr,
while it iilences the refentment of thofe who employ them.
- . From
!"«!'
A-^
4fek
¥
Ikis account of the TRADE
From alt'thefe circumftances the conclufion is at once forcible and evideut,—
that the trade between Great Britain and China fliould be arranged on an .equal
and refpedtable eftabliftiment.— Nor, if the proper means were employed, would
fuch a defirable object be fo difficult to accomplifh as is generally imagined.
It is not to be fuppofed that the infant trade of the North Weft Coaft of
America to China efcaped thofc deprefling arrangements which narrow the
advantages and difgrace the fpirit of the long eftabliflied and fuperior channels
of commerce with this part of the Eaftern world.— Wc felt and execrated the
incSnveniences of them; but ftill a profpeft of confiderable advantage unfolds
itfelf to the views of j liberated commerce, which would juftify any encourage-
ment from this country.
No communication had as yet taken place between the Ruflian Kamfchadale
and Siberian Provinces with China, but by land ; and that mtercourfe having
been interrupted for many years, in confequence of difputes which arofe, and
have never been fettled between the courts of Peterlburg and Pekin, — it became
a matter of contemplation to have connected, in a great degree, the commerce
of the North Weft Coaft of America, and thefc provinces with that of China
and Japan.— If fiich a projeA had been carried into effeft, it would have pro-
duced very beneficial confequences to this country ; as her manu&£lures, inft'ead
of being fent through the empire, of Ruflia, by way of Peterfburg, and from
thence into Siberia and Kiufcha, would have been imported Immediately
by fea, and the furs of thofe countries received in barter ; which, with the
Noith Weft American furs, would have been fold at Canton, and the proceeds,
from the natural channels of commerce, paid without compun£lion into the
Engltfti treafury there, which would tend toleflen the exports of bullion from
this country.
By this trade, Great Britain might have encreafed her exports of broad
doth, coarfe woollens, cottons, linens, hardware, and her tin and copper in
all
#-
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
I»sl
all the variety of articles into which thofe metals are manufaAured ; for which
would br received, as before obferved, furs of all the various and valuable
kinds with which that part of the world abounds. The quantity of exports
muft have been very confiderable to fupply the RufTian provinces; and fupply-
ing them by this mode would prove the means of beating out of the market
thofe French woollens and ironmongery with which it is now fupplied ;— as it
cannot be fuppofed that the inliabitants would not prefer the folid and lading
manufaAures of England to the flight cloths and brittle hardwares of France.
The confidcration of this part of the Northern commerce naturally forces
upon oar attention the neceflity of opening the Northern provinces of China,
as well as the kingdom of Japan, in order to extend this chain of commercial
intercourfr. Such an arrangement would open an inftant and extenfive chan-
nel for Britifli manufa£lures, particularly thofe of tin and copper> more
eipecially the former; the exports of which being of the firft importance to
this country, we coniider as a fubje£l that demands a diflind difcuflion, which
it will receive in the fucceeding part of thefe obfervations. • '
The prefent exclufion of the European nations from all the ports of the
Chinefe empire, except Canton, is a ferious difadvantage to Great Britain.—
While from the arbitrary regulations of the Chinefe government refpeCt'mg Eu-
ropean commerce, our exports, beiides the heavy duties to which they are
fubjedt, are taken by the purchafers at a price fixed by themfelves. The fame
tyrannical and diflioneft principle operates to enhance the price of every article
we receive in return, and is the caufe that fo much bad tea is imported intd
this country.
It would be equally idle and impertinent to obferve on the prevailing habits
of all ranks of Britifli fubjefts for the beverage produced by this oriental
plant. It has loqg ceafed to be a luxury among the great; and io become a
\ L kind
J I
,^' HI
I \i
^t,
lM«n
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
kiad of necelTaiy of life even among the poor. — Though produced in the mc^
diftant quarter o( the globe, its ufe is fo naturalized to this country, as to be
an article of general confumptioii, and productive of a very confiderable pub-
lie revenue*. . , i . . , s ,!.
If» therefore, it is i national ubje£t to procure the teas and manufa£lures
of China of bettci ^alities and at a cheaper rate,— fume method (hould be
devifed by the Brunn government to procure the Northern ports of that coun-
try to be opened to us, as well as to emancipate our trade from rhe vexatious
bondage beneath which it groans in the only Chinefe port which our fliips
are allowed to enter. To eSeGt this, — and I have not the leaft doubt • but it
might be effedled, — it is humbly fubmitted, whether it might not be proper to
lend an embafly dite&ly toPeki»» with fuch a degree of confequencc and fplen-
dour attached to it, as becomes the reprefentative of a British monarch bearing
hi» credentials to the fplendid court of a great Oriental fovereigu.
M
The opening the door of thefe ports, by encreaHng and improving the means
of communication between the two countries, would produce the greateft ad-
vantages to each; and, without enumerating the particular benefits which
would be derived to our own, I fliall juft obfervc, that by the exports of our
tin alone, commerce would add an artificial mine of national wealth to thofe
which nature has already beflowed on Great Britain. In confequence of fuch
an arrangement, the hitherto little known, but poliflied and wealthy kingdom of
.,,,-,,.,..„ ........ .-,..,. Corea»
* This herb, which is fuppofcd to poflefs qualities of a pernicions tendency bv many medical
writen, is, on the contrary, confidered in China as replete with medicinal virtues. Its ufe in the
country where it grows is univerfal and continual ; and a doubt of ks (alutary nature, would be
treated there, as arifing from the moft inveterate folly, or the grofleft ignorance.— An inhabiunt of
China will tell you, that it braces the nerves,— invigonups their tone,— ftrengthens the llomacb»
and relieves depreflion. — It fhould, however, be obt'erved, that the black teas only are in general
ufe among the Chinefe ; and that the green and bloom tCM are in a g^at d&rce, if not aUogothsr>
aianvftAnred for foreign markets. ■ *'
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
liuiU
Corea, would be open to the Britifh adventurer t and, independent of the empire
of Japan* we know not how to exprefa our idea of the vaft and inexhauftlble
fources of commercial advantage that would be gained by purfuing the fyftem
which is the objeA of this memoir to fugged and to recommend. ' n ";.
The fined teas are produced by the Northern provinces ;—we ihould
therefore receive them from thence free from that adulteration which the
avarice of the Houang merchant not only allows but encourages. The raw
filkof thofe countries would alfo come to our market of the iineft quality.
The kingdom of Corea would receive, and eagerly receive, the fame manu«
fa£tures as China, with this important addition, — that in fo cold a climate, they
would have our woollens directly from ourfclves, inAead of the light French
cloths which make their way to them by the circuitous route of Pekin from
RuflTia, or more immediately from Canton. But on account of the very high
price of woollen goods, occafioncd by the expenfive mode of importing them,
tbefe people have recourie to thick printed cottons, which, after all, are by no
means fufficient to protcft them frofla the feverity of their winters. This coun-
try produces the fined tea, but no filk. The Coreans receive it however from
China, and return it thither to great advantage, worked up into (ilks and da<
malks, of a very fine and rich fabric. It is here> alfb that the curious failing
waggon is to be fecn, which is a very ferviceable machine in the low and
marfhy grounds towards the Corean fea. ...
i'.
The empire of Japan may be confidered as a fource of commerce diflinA from
that of Chma ; but it is, neverthelefs, open to the fame fpirit of commercial
adventure, — contains fimilar rcfources, and promifes to be a mofl profitable mart
for Britifh manufadures. The communication which one of the fhips captured
by the Spaniards at Nootka Sound, had with this country, in her voyage to
the North WeflCoaft of America, proves, in the fulled manner, that the in-
habitants would gladly enter into a trading intercourfe with us. It was, indeed,
Li intended
I
f
>
bnni«
ACCOUNT OF THl TRAD
intended to have fent a fliip from Canton in the prefent year 1 790, had not
the North Weftem commerce been interrupted, and for a time, at lead, deftroycd
by the fliips of his Catholic Majefty. From very refptStthle authority we are
aflured, that furs fell there at an immenfe price, while the country, climate, and
inhabitants will warrant a more than probable conjecture, that fuch a commer-
cial intercourfe would prove highly advantageous to this kingdom*
China exports thither a few broad cloths, filks, cottons, fiigar, hardware,
furs, and tin in blocks, which fetches there almoft the price of (ilver,
as they ufe it not only for all culinary purpofes, but to form thofe veiTels
and ornaments which they employ in their religious ceremonies.— In return for
thefe articles, the Chinefe receive gold, fine teas, and pure copper. But, upoA
the whok, the trade is not very confiderable between thefe countries.
It is well known that the only European nation which enjoys a commercial
connection with the Japanefe, are the Dutch. Four Dutch fhips are annually
difpatched thither from Batavia, and each of them pays an hundred thoufand
dollars for the privilege of this profitable traffic ; of which a very adequate
idea may be formed, when it will bear the previous import of fuch an enormou*
lum. — The Dutch are too fcnfiblc of the advantages of this monopoly, not to
clothe the whole in all pofFiWe fecrecy, or to colour it with every kind of faHa-
cious defcriptlon. But however ignorant we may be of their particular ino-
ports, exports, and mode of trade, we cannot but know that it is extremely
advantageous to them, and would, confequently, prove of equal, if not fuperior
bencnt to us. It may not be improper to add, that there is every rtafou
to fuppofe the navigation to and from Japan to be a very fafe one, when un*
dertaken at particular feafbns.
The Chinefe alfo engage in a traffic between the Philippines and Japan in the
South. They import from the former wrought filks, gold, copper, and iron ;
and
«*■
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
Jaixr
and carry to the latter, fpices, pepper, filver, and fugar.— Tbia trade ia very
profitable tb themfelves, and extremely detrimental to the fubjeAs of Spain.
If a Britifli fettlement could beeftabliflied on one of the Southemmoft of the
Coreaa ifles, it would facilitate the intercourfe between Great Britain and thefo
parts of the globe.— Nor would the difficulty of compleating fuch a plan oc-
cadon any uncommon ri(k, or demand more than common exertions ; as we
are given to underdaiid that the natives are a mild, humane, and |H>li(hed race
of people, who would not hefitateto give the Britifli voyager a moft welcome
reception. The pradlic.ibility of fuch a colony, need not require any other
argument, when it is known that on the Northernmofl of thefe iflands the
Ruiflanshave formed a fettlement.
Befides the general Briti(h exports, — to which advantageous circumftance we
are fo continually obliged to recur, — the opening thefe channels would give
new {lability to the fur-trade, and enable us to annihilate, in a great meafure,
this profitable branch of the Ruflian commerce. The Rufifian fettlements on
Cook's River, down the Coaft of America to the Southward, and on that chain
of iflands called the Fox Iflands, for the fole purpofe of colleAing furs, toge-
ther with the encouragement given by the Emprefs Catherine to all adventu-
rers in, as well as the protection (he holds forth to merchants who regularly
profecute the trade between China and her dominions, by way of Kiafcha, as
fet fytib with equal accuracy and ability by Mr. Cox, in his account of the
Ruflian difcoveries, are circumftances which difcovcr, in the fulleft manner
the opinion which the court of Petcrftjurg entertains of tliis commerce. One
branch of this trade,— the fupplying China with the Canadian or Hudfon's
Bay furs,— we hope is already removed to this country, and that they will no
longer find their way tliither by the intermediate aid of the Ruflian mer-
chants.
<»
/
hiMfl
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
It may be faid, without any fear of contradiAion, tbat this advantage hai
been obtained by the importation of the North WeA American furs into
Canton : and there can be as little doubt that the continuance of fuch imports
will ierve to augment it. — The reputation of the fea>otter skins brought no
inconnderable bmly of the Northern Chinefe and Pckiu merchants to Canton,
a port which they had never before vidtcd, and at the didance of junr one
thoufand miles from the places of their refidencc. — Yet notwithAandiiig the
length of this commercial journey, they found it anfwer to their entire llitis-
fa£Uon, from being able to obtain the fame fpecies of fuis which they had
been accuAomed to purchafe at Kiafchn, at a price fo much below the ufual
rate of that market. They arrived at Canton laJeif with teas, filk and ivorv;
and took back in return, furs and broad-cloths. — The cloths imported by the
Eaft India Company, were diftinguiftied by their particular preference and ad-
miration ; nor did they hefitate to acknowledge their great fuperiority over any
woollens they had ever nqccived by the way of Kiafcha.
Furs form the principal and favourite drefs of the inhabitants of the Norths
era provinces of China ; and thofe of the rareft kind and the highefl prices
are eagerly purchafed by them. — From five hundred to a thoufand dollars, and
even a larger fum, are frequently given for a fingle fuit of this precious
cloathing. . . « ,. >
The skin of the feaotter, from the thicknefsof its pile and the length <of its
fur, forms too cumberfome an habiliment for the people of the Southern pro-
vinces ; they prefer, in general, the Canadian andHudfon's Bay furs ; but Aill,
fuch as can afford it, feldom fail of having a cape of the fea-otter's skin to
their coats, though perhaps at the extravagant price of fix dollars.— On con-
lidering, therefore, the prodigious population of China, and fuppofing the fur
trade to be carried on under proper regulations, the inaccuracy of an opinion
which has been advanced with fome degree of plaufibility, that the Chinefe
market may be overftocked both with Canadian, Hudfon's Bay, and the North
« Weft
I
BETWEEN N. W AMERICA AMD CHINA. iusvit
Weft American furs, muft i\pp«ar evi^c.it tn the moft tranfient reflexion.—
On the contrary, it ii oiir decided opiniop, that tfie fea-ottcr ■kin* which have
been imported to China, fmc«r the commcncemfut of the North Weft Atneri*
can trade, have not proved luffllrknr to anfwer the demands of th« fuigU
province of Canton.— Even there, the cold will often render a fur draft
neceiTiry ; more particularly as the Chinefc arc minutely attentive in propor-
tioning their doathiiig to the temperature of the moment, whatever it may b* |
and frequently, in the courfe of the fame day, add to or dimini(h the number
or warmth of their garments, as from the varying circumftances of the at*
mofphere, &c. the air may demand a cooler or a warmer covering.
Having thus ftated fuch information concerning the commerce of the North
Weft Coaft of America and the Northern parts of China, as well as the rela-
tive trade of Ruflia, as has been obtained by our experience and enquiries, we
Ih.Ul proceed to ftate a few particular circumftances relative to the foreign
commerce of Canton and the country trade. . i, ...
Tl e following is a Lift of the ihips of different nations in the River of Canton,
in the year 1 789 ; which will give a very precife idea of the prefent fuperiority
of the Britifh trade over that of all other European nations*
List
0/ Ships
belonging to the Englijb Eajl India
lllirS NAMFi.
COMMANDtKt.
•Uirs NAME
Ganges —
_
Jofcph Garnaiill
Walpole _
MUliirffcx
_
John Rogers
Kiiropa —
Eart Mansfk'ld
_
Brodie Hepworlh
Thetis —
King George
—
John Sljerwood
Ocean —
liillellet
—
Richard Aihcrton Farrington
General Elliot -
Valentine
—
John Lewis
Warley _
Nottingham
•»
Archibald Anderfon
Fort William
Lord Macartnrj
1 —
Janies Hay
Duke of Biitcleiigh
Sulivan
—
Robert Poiincy
Britannia —
KocKingham
^
John Atkinfon Blanchard
Pitt —
Sari Wycombe
"
Jolm William Wood
- • K* ■■
' - .1"
—
;
Company^ at Wampoa, - -•
*• COMMANDIRK.
Henry Churchill
Aiiguttus Jor(r|ih Applcgwtk
Juliinian Niiit
James 'I'odd
— Robert Drummund ■ - •
Henry Willon
— George Sinipfon / '
— Thomas Wall , • ^
Edward Cummlng
Edward Manning ,
II i I.
'.-•J
m
hunviii
ACCOUNTOF TflE TRADE
.i stJ.
UJl ofEngUJfj Country Ships trading to Cbinot 1789.
V)
Fnm Btmiafl» China and B>:niay,
•Mirt MAMi:. COMMANDim.
SoUinan Shaw •-
Gangavar ' —
New Triumph —
Milfoid —
Shaw Ardefcer —
Vif>or!a Snow —
Boddam —
K*yal Chariotte —
Sutlimancy Urab —
Caitier —
Ganfava ^
General Meadowi —
Hornby ^
Camatic —
Shav Biram —
Darius —
Sural Caftle
Thamttim Tax But
Enterprize —
Nancy —
Clive —
Bombay —
Prince of Wales -
Hindoftan —
Jofeph M' Intofh
William Robinfon
George Smith
William Henderfon
Kichard Rainfay
■David Jordan
John Anfon Smith
William Watfon
William Stuart
James Nalh
James Jamifon
Robert Billainore
Charles ChriO. M' Intofli
Francis Simpfon
lliunias Meek
William Maughan
Henry Lowrie
William Roy
Paul Shercrafi
Charles Edward Macklow
John Robertfon
James Wiiron
James Wilcot
Francis Edwards
Fnm Btmtaj) l» Sural.
Sultan — James Caliender
Fier Refoal Mucky — ' George Milford Nelfon
Fics AUum — John Swaine
f row Bengal an Jibe Malay Coafl la BtngaU
SHIPS N.\Mt>. COMMANDERS,
Cornnullls — David Ciimming
NonriK-h — John Canning
Siuprlze — John Phillips
h'nm Bengal and the Malay CoaJIio Btmiaj.
Cheerful ' — John fclmore
fnm Bombay n Madras and Bomiaj,
Yarmouth — Thomas Bruce
Frfu Bomhiiy to Bengal and Bomhjy.
Britannia Snow — 1 lioiuas Hardy
Fiom Madras la Bombay.
Henry — George (i^loway
From Bombay to Bfn^al.
Refolution — James Watfon ,
From Btnjiat and Batavia to Btn^al.
Warren Haftings Nicholas Cheminant
i .-om Bombay it Pegu and Bengal.
Ilibcrnia — VVilliam I'olly
Indus
From Bombay and Madras lo Bombay,
— William Dixon
From China lo ihe N. V. CoaJI of America.
Argonaut ^ James Colnett
Princefs Royal — '1 liomas Hiidfon
«
A UJl of Foreign Ships trading to China in 1789;
Dutch.
SHITS MAMI8.
COMMANDERS
Meeryk —
Dclfi
Chrifteflel Columbus
Sdiagen —
Maria Cornelia —
lVf4iller
Swetman
Pieterfeen
Stokbroo
Moddemun
French.
Dauphia —
Duval Favereub
King of Dcnmafk —
Danijb.
Torilow
AmtrieaH,
Antony Brig ^
Sampfon ^
Maflachuflctts —
A Area —
Uwoa —
Richard Proler
Samuel Howell
Benjamin Carpenter
James Magee
Joha AOimead
American eonlinued.
SHIPS NAMES.
William and Henry Brig
Three Siflers ditto —
Federalift —
Atlantic —
Light Horfe —
America —
Tay — —
Waftiington —
Morfe
Columbia
COMMAMDERS.
Benjamin Hodges
Benjam:i> Weft
Richard D«.<r
Henry KHcins
Jacob Nicols
Jacob barley
Thomas Randall
Mark Hafkett
Oriolte
_ Robert Gray
Portuguefe.
Bom Jefus Alem ^ Jofo Dias de Souza
Marquis de Anjuga — Cododio de Arevedo
Campclcs — Antonio de Arayo
The
■I ijm w ■ II ^-
BETWEEN N. ^^. AMERICA AND CHINA. Ixxux
The advantages which muft refult to the manufaftures of Great Britain,
from the encreafe of the China trade, is one of thofe truths whofe evidence
wants no fupport. Its tendency to encreafe the nurfery of our marine ftrength,
muft be acknowledged with equal juftice. TheEnglifti (hipping at Canton gave
employment, on an average, in the year 1789, to near two thoufand officers
and ieamen. . . x, > v
It has indeed been objected, that tlie very great export of bullion from this
country, abfoluteiy neceflary to purchafe the homeward bound inveftments,
is, in faifV, a national difadvantage, which the accompanying exports of our
manufa«flures by no means indemnify. This unfavourable reprefentation of the
China commerce, has, I muft own, too much foundation. But it is well known
to have undergone a very confiderable change in the very point on which thofe
who are difpofed to condemn it, reft their objeiftious. The exports of buUioa
have been for fome years, and are now in a gradual ftate of decreafe,
while the exports of Britifh manufaflures are in a proportionable ftate of aug-
mentation : and if we add, which furely may be done upon the moft fatisfa<ftory
grounds, the new arrangements in trade of the Canadian and Hudfon's Bay furs,
and the added commerce of thofe of the North Weft Coaft of America, we
are juftified in expedting, from the wife adminiftration of the prefent Eaft Iniia
Company, that the period is at no great diftance when the balance of trade
between Great Britain and China may be turned in favour of our own country.
Of our exports to that part of the Eaft, broad cloths have encreafed in a
very extraordinary proportion, and the Company now fend thither a very large
fum in that ftaple article. In 1789, feveral thoufand bales were exported
by them. The fur merchants who come down from the Northern pro-
vinces of China, take offgreat quantities of this cloth, and it is in an encreafing
demand in every part of that vaft empire. Camlets, fhalloons, long ells,
&c. with the coarfer woollens, have alfo very confiderably encreafed as ar-
ticles of China trade. Copper may be alfo added to the augmenting exports
1 1
I
>
Se
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
from this country to the fame quarter of the globe. The manner in which the
Company have it manufaftwred, in fmall bars, gives it an advantageous re-
femblance to the Japan copper.
Of this very valuable metal Cornwall produces the fineft in Europe; and
as the Dutcli have not lately imported any from Japan, on account of its
advanced price, the Eaft India Company have the fame profpedt of encreafing
gain from copper as from tin, as they arc able to unilerfcU the Japanefe in
their own market.
I(
But a new and very faHiionable article of the China market is tin, which
will be found to be annually adding a very important proportion to the exports
of the Eaft India Company. The country at large, and the county of Corn-
wall in particular, are very much indebted to Mr. George Unwin of the Royal
Navy, for the difcovery and introdu(ftion of this valuable branch of the prefent
China trade, when he was employed in the Company's fervice, and which may
now be confidered as a ftaple article, from whence the Britifh commerce will
derive a very folid, and, as I truft, a lafling advantage. To that gentleman I
am particularly indebted for much valuable information on this fubjeft ; and
whatever individual or general advantage proceeds from what I may call this
new current of trade, it is to the indefatigable and commercial zeal of Mr. Unwia
that Great. Britain owes her acknowledgements. It was, indeed, at a critical
moment for the county of Cornwall, when this unexpe(fled channel was opened
for the confumption of tin. — The trade for this article was, at this time, on a
very rapid decline ; the mining parifhes began to experience the greateft dif-
trefs, and tlic demand for it in the European markets was greatly decreafed, on
account of the late war, and the riling troubles of Europe ; fo that in the fhort
I'pace of nine months, tin became reduced one-fifth in value, wliich was a clear
lufs, befides the attendant inconvenience and diflrefs, of jr.40,000 />er annum to
the county of Cornwall: nor did the future profpedl offer any thing like en-
couragement or coulblation to that refpedabJe body of men who compofe the
propriety
B E T W E E N N. W. A M E R I C A A N D C H 1 N A. Mt
fjropriety of the mining eftates in that valuable province. But the China com-
merce has revived their hopes, and I truft will not only re-efl:abli(h the original
conlequence of this part of Great Britain, but give it nevir vigour and encreafing
opulence, ■ •■ "' ' > ■ ; ^ ■
•//
We feel, indeed, the greateft fatisfaftion, in ftatlng our expeftations on this
fubjeiSt, that we do not proceed merely upon conjeftures, however probable,
but on fads, as we truft, decifive of the returning and encreafing profperity of
this ancient fource of Britifh wealth. During the long period the Eaft India Com-
pany have traded to China, the \fHO\.TS. of ihe'ir exports , including every commercial
article^ have not amounted to more than j(^. 100,900, 'till within the laft five
years ; and in that time, the average exports in their fhips, in thirteen months'^
or two feafons, from Cornwall alone, have amounted to 2000 tons of tin,
value jf. 130,000, befides her (hare of copper.
<l«
The accounts received from China this feafon, are alfo of the moft favourable
nature, and encourage the India Company to look tovery confiderable advantages
from this branch of their exportation. The annual confumption of tin, at this
time, in the China market, is from three to four thoufand tons, fupplied by the
Dutch, in the country trading vefl'els and China junks from the Malay Iflands.—
But we truft fuch meafures may be purfued by the proprietors of the tia
mines, united, as it were, by a commercial union with the Eaft India Company,
that they may in time, and we hope at no very diftant period, poflefs them-
felves of the China market for the exclufive fale of that valuable metal, which
has for fo many ages formed the principal wealth of their country.
f
The ufes to which tin is applied in China, arc of great variety ; — among
others, it is become an art'cle of fuperftition and religious ceremony, a cir-
cumftance which cannot fail to create a very confiderable confumption. The
merchant who buys this metal, re-fells it to the gold-beaters, who manufacture
it into leaf, which they difpoie of to the prlcfts, who, after die ceremonies of
M 2 con-
I
XCll
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
confec ration, pa fte it in pieces on a kind of cartoon paper, near the fize of t
card, and confign them to (hops, where they are to be bought in every part of
the empire. — At the rlfing of the fun, certain periods of the day, and the clofe
of the evening, the Chinefe are feen making what they call chin, chin^ to their
Gods or Jofles, by burnuig thefe papers, and making obeifance to the Weft ;
as the devotees are more or lefs ardent, they burn a fmaller or greater quantity
of thefe papers.— The confumptioa of tin, therefore, in this article alone, muft
be very great. ■ '
11/'
The river of Canton is fuppofed to be inhabited. If I may fo exprefs myfelf,
by between fixty and feventy thoufand people, who live on the water, all of
whom expend their daily quota of thefe paper offerings. The population of
China is not within our knowledge, but if we may judge from the calculation
juft related, and which we believe is pretty accurate, the number of inhalM-
tants in the empire at large is fo great, that there can be but little doubt,
if we could get an entire pofleflion of the China market, that there would be a
ready fale for all the tin which Cornwall could furnifli fur exportation.
The Chinefe alfb pofTefs the art of extracting filver from that metal ; and not
only employ it in the compofitton of which they make their utenfils for culinary
and other domeftic, as well as manufacturing purpofes, but alfo in making
very large quantities of a white metal called Tutenage, which they export in the
country trading veflcls to all parts of India. — It cannot, therefore, be fuppofed,
that the Eaft India Company will not give a fpirited encouragement to the
exports of a commodity, which by promoting the interefts of the county of
Cornwall, and encreafing their own commercial revenues, will add to the genc^
ral opulence of the nation.
It is not, however, in China alone that tin, under proper regulations, will
find an advantageous market. — Bengal will, in future, be able to take off a
very coufiderable portion, at a very good price ; the demand of that place being
at
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
xciii
at this time, equal to one-fourth of the artnual produce of Cornwall, which
will be difpcrfed through the interior parts of India ; and if the Ottoman
commerce fliould be thrown open to us, ^n added and very confiderable con-
fumption of this metal will be the certain confequence. — Even from Bengal
and Bombay, tin has found its way into the Weftern parts of Periia ; and
the exportation of it might be ftill further promoted, from the communication
we have with that country by way of Surat. — And within thefe three years,
Cornilh tin, which had been carried from England to Turkey, not with (landing
ihe heavy duties with which it was charged in pafling through the Grand
Seignior's dominions, was feen felling as a favourite article of fale at an auction of
the public caravans. — Indeed it is well known that the greater part of the Afiatic
nations are as well acquainted with the value of this precious commodity of
our country as the natives of China.
The Chinefe have ufually received their tin by the Englifh and Dutch coun-
try Ihips, and fome fmall quantities by their own junks ; and though the
opium of Bengal leflened the quantity of bullion which muft otherwife have
been exported from thence to the Malayan nation, for the purchafe of this
effential commodity ; yet ftill there remained a confiderable balance againft
the European fettlements in this branch of their commerce It fliould alfo be
obferved that the Malayans do not work their mines, but leave that important
bufinefs, as well as the refining of the ore, to Chinefe fettlers among them.
The Dutch Eaft India Company contrive, with the mercantile fagacity of
their nation, to derive a very confiderable revenue from this article. The
fultan of Banee, who refides at Balam-banga.i, on tlie ifland of Sumatra and
is within fight of the former place, is obliged to furnifli them with fo many
hundred tons of tin, at a low rate, which is freighted to Batavia in fmall vef-
fels, and from thence tranfported to China in their fliips, where it meets with
a profitable fale, and faves the lofing export of bullion.
Many
%
S
I
ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE
Many objeiflions have been raifcd to the exportation of tin to China from
certain prejudices fuppofcd to be entertained by the Chinefe againd the Cornifli
.tin, on account of its not being found fo malleable as that obtained from the
Malayans. — Aduated by a moft laudable zeal for the particular intercfts of
the county of Cornwall, as well as for the general extenfion of the Briti(h
commerce, Mr. Unwin undertook to examine into the foundation of thefe ob-
jctSlions, and accordingly made repeated experiments on the comparative excel-
lence of the Britifh and Malayan tin ; when it appears by the certificates of
the workmen employed, as well as the tin leaf in that gentleman's pofleffion,
that the produce of Cornwall is equal, if not fuperior, in every refpe£l, to that
of the rjalayans. — Of this he gave a convincing proof, by having beaten a
pound of the former to a quantity of leaf fufficient to cover thirty-five fquare
yards. In confequence of his experiments, the Eaft India Company not only
lent out the laft feafon, feveral books of the Britifh tin-leaf, as fpecimens, to
China and their fettlements in India, but a proper quantity of the metal itfelf,
in order to give the utmoft encouragement iu their power to the exportation
of tin from this coun*ry. - , •
The export of bullion has been a moft grievous burthen on our Oriental
commerce, and it is the firft duty of thofe who are engaged in the admini-
flration of it, to diminifh, and if poffible, fn ;innihilate fiich an anti-commerciai
oppreflion. — The former might be accomplifhed, indeed, by narrowing the pre-
fent extent of the China commerce ; — but here the remedy would be worfe
than the difeale ; as by leflening the importation of tea, now become almoft a
neceflliry of life among all claflcs of people in this country, it would re-open
the door fo wifely (hut againft the fmuggling of that article, and introduce,
inftead of the wholefomc produce of Cliina, thofe adulterated teas which are
equally injurious to the revenues of the country, as they are prejudicial to the
health of its inhabitants. The latter is only to be obtained by thofe meafures
which will force our manufadures and produce into China and other parts of
the Eaft ; nor have we the leaft doubt, but that if the^ were once received
* . . the
BETWEEN N. W. AMERICA AND CHINA.
xcv
the export of bullion thither,— that mifchief of our Oriental trade,— would,
in a fliort time, be greatly counteraaed, and perhaps entirely fupprefled.
Thefe are obje£ls which it will not furcly be confidercd as prefumption in
us to recommend to the fcrious confideration of the legiflature, and as we
fhould hope, to be followed up by the a(flive exertions of the grand commer-
cial fpirit of this country. They would heighten the flourifhing ftate of our
maiinfafturcs,— give added ftrciigth to our maritime power, — and which is
no trifling concern, though it may not be a fubjetfl of general confideration,
reftore profperity to the county of Cornwall, which it is not only the intereft,
but cfllntial to the honour of England to maintain, as that corner of her
territory was, a;; it were, the cradle of her infant commerce ; and from
whence fhe firft derived, at the diftance of many ages, a commercial- charadler
among the nations of the world,^
I (hall only add, as it feems to be a link in that chain of commerce which
it is the office of thefe pages, however imperfedly, to enforce, — that Provi-
dence, by permitting Great Britain to make a difcovery of the Sandwich Ifles,
feems to have intended that they fliould become a part of herfelf. — The fitu-
ation, climate, and produce of thefe iflands, may be made to anfwer very
important commercial purpofes ; befides, the inhabitants are a brave and gene-
rous race of people, fufceptible of the higheft mental cultivation, and worthy
of fharing, as they are already ambitious to fhare, the flite enjoyed by Britifli
fubjeds. — The well dircdcd iiukiftry, and allured fklclity of half a million of
people, would furely add to the grandeur and profperity of the Britifh
Empire.
• I (hall not enlarge further on the fulijcft of tin at this time ; hui 1 llatter myn-lf, with the afHrt-
ance of Mr. Donnithorne, the public agent for the couiity of Cornwall, wUnk- zeal and nbilitics in
the fervice of it are fo juftly ackiiowiedgcd, and his friend Mr. Unwin, to wliofc coniniercial infor-
mation, and indefatigable attention, that county is under fuch very peculiar obllMtions, I fhall
Ihortly be enabled to make fome propofals to the gentlemen of Cornwall rcfpcaing tins 'valuable
branch of commerce, which may not be Ucenied altogether un\vo:ihy thtii- attention.
• 'I
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6
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1 1
ERRATA.
"^
In the Intiodvctort Voyaoi, page tj, line 3 of the note, /m joolbl. rtaJ 8olbi.
Page 1641 line 13, fir ut dircover, read for ut to dircover.
172, line 24, fir he rtadbj.
173, line 16, fir 30th July, rta4 13th July.
187. line 7, /nr reafon ftippore, read rearon to ruppofe.
aoi, line la, fir ai far cur power, read as far ai our power.
303, lineal, June 8, /(rlatitudesb* ao', >r<i</{6* 26'.
304, line 8, fir June loth read 9th.
-~— line 17, fir joj* 36'Eaft longitude on tlie iitb, read aoj* i'36"on the loth.
^«- line a I, /or the I aih rM</theiith; and/«r latitude 56*4S'on the latb, rra</on the i ith.
305, line 18, /orthe 13th, reailikt lath.
306, line a, fir 14th, rro^ 13th.
— ^, line aj, /er 16th, r*«</ I J/A.
307, line a, yir 1 7th, read ibth.
it*, tinea, the4ihofAuguft omitted, and that miflake continued to the 13th, JT^
— Iine9,/»r Tianna'iBay, rM</Tianna'aRaada.
3a{, line *i,fir $9* 19' N. read ^t' 19' N.
3SS, line 1$. /«r I9*4'N< rM</ 19* 41'N. ' •
3j^ line ia,/«r 30" ai', >-/«</ 20* at'. , ;,
• •
The Ships latitudes and longitudes read as they were kept ly the Reckoning; but in the
CHARTS as they were inferred iy cokrect Observations and the lunar method of
finding the lonptude atfea.
VOYAGES
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of the N.W. Coafl of AMERICA and N.E. Coaft of \SIA explored in th<
hy CAPT!" COOK;
and further explored, in 1788, and 1789.
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Ind further explored, in 1788, and 1789.
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V O Y A G E
TO THE
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
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In the Years 1788 and 1789, ^c.
C H A P. I.
Preparatiom for the Voyage. — Tianna, a Prince of the IJland Arooi,
and otlxr Natives of the Sandwich Isles emharh-^CharaiUr of
TiK^nfik.— Complement of the Crew of hoth Ships. — ^antity ofCattle^Uc.
embarked for the Sandwich Isles. — Departure of the Felicb and
IpHiOEtiiA from China.
IN the month of January 1788, in conjun<aion with feveral Britifli
merchants refident in India, I purchafed and fitted out two veflels
named the Felice and the Iphigenia : the former was of 230 tons burthen
and the latter of 200. They were calculated, in every refpeft, for their
deftined voyage, being good Tailors, copper-bottomed, and built with
fufficient ftrength to refift the tempeftuous weather fo much to be ap-
prehended in the Northern Pacific Ocean, during the wir.cer feafon.
A It
1788.
January.
' i !■
ig
a
1788.
January.
VOYAGESTOTHE
It was originally intended that they (hould have failed from China the
beginning of the feafon, but the difficulty of procuring a fufficient quan-
tity of ftores neceflary for the voyage, delayed the (hips till the 20th of
this month, when they were completely equipped and ready for fea.
One of the (hips was defined to remain out a much longer time thai>
the other. It was intended, that at the clofe of the autumn of this year,,
(he (hould quit the coaft of America, and fteer to the Sandwich Iflands,
for the purpofe of wintering there ; (he was then to return to America^
in order to meet her confort from China, with a fupply of neceflTary
ftores and refre(hments, fu(ficient for the eftabliihing fa-Slories, and ex-
tending the plan of commerce in which we had engaged.
The crews of thefe (hips confifted of Europeans and China-men, with
a larger proportion of the former. The Chinefe were, on this occadon,
(hipped as an experiment :— they have been generally efteemed an hardy,
and induftrious, as well as ingenious race of people ; they live on fi(h and
tice, and, requiring but low wages, it was a matter alfo of oeconomical
condderation to employ them ; and during the whole of the voyage there
was every reafon to be fati'Sfied with their fervices. — If hereafter trading
ports (hould be eftabli(hed on the American coaft, a colony of thefe men
would be a very important acqulfition»
I
The command of the Iphigenia was given to Mr. Douglas, an
officer of con(iderable merit, who was well acquainted with the coaft
of America, and, on that account, was the moft proper per(bn to be
entrurted with the charge of conducing this commercial expeditions
The crew contained artificers of various denominations, among whom
were Chinefe fmiths and carpenters, as well as European artizaus;
ferming, in the whole, a complement of forty men.
The
\\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The crew of the Felice was compofed of the fame ufeful and neceflary 1778.
clafles of people, and amounted to fifty men :— this (hip was commanded Ja""*"*
by myfelf.
A much greater number of Chinefe folicited to enter into this fervice
than could be received j and fb fi>r did the fpirit of enterprize influence
them, that thofe we were under the neceflity of refufing, gave the moft
unequivocal marks of mortification and difappointment. — From the
many who offered themfelves, fifty were felefted, as fully fufficient for
the purpofes of the voyage: they were, a? has been already obferved,
chiefly handicraft-men, of various kinds, with a fmall proportion of
failors who had been ufed to the junks which navigate every part of
the Chinefe feas.
In a voyage of fo long contuiuance, and fuch various climates, very feri-
ous and natural apprehenfions were entertained of the inconvenienciesand
dangers arifing from the fcurvy, that cruel fcourge of maritime life.
Every precaution therefore that humanity or experience could fuggeft,
was taken to prevent its approach, to lefTen its violence, and effe&. its
cure : large quantities of molafles, with fufl!icient proportions of tea,
fugar, and every other article that might contribute to thefe falutary
ends, were carefully provided. Each veflel carried near five months
water, allowing one gallon per day for each pcrfon on board, a
plentiful fupply of which being one of the moft effetSlual preventives
of this diforder. Warm cloathing of every kind was provided for the
crews, as well Chinefe as Europeans : In (hort, every thing was pro-
cured that China produced, to render both vefiels as complete as poffible,
and to enfure, as far as human means could be exerted, fuccefs to the
voyage, and comfort to every denomination of people who were employed
in It.
As
Among
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.1' £,,'•»
i
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X:<
1788.
January.
VOYAGES TO THE
Among other objefts of this voynge there was one, at leaft, of the
moft difinterefttd nature, and the pureft fatisfa£lion ; and that was to
take back, to then- rcfpeilive homes, thofc people who had been brought
from America and the Sandwich Iflands. A certain number of cattle
and other ufcful animals were purchafed and taken on board, for the
purpofe of being put on fliore at thofe places where they might add ta
the comfort of the inhabitants, or promife to fupply the future naviga-
tor, of our own, or any other country, with the neceflary refrefli-
ments.
In fulfilling this pleafing duty to thefe children of nature, whom a
curious fpirit and an unfufpeding charadler had led to fuch a diftance
from their native country, a very marked attention was paid to Tianna,
a prince of the ifland of Atooi, a chief of illuftrious birth and high
rank, who, in the year 1787, was carried by me to China, and who
now afforded us the pleafure of reftoring him to his country and his
kindred, with a mind enlarged by the new fcenes and pidures of life
which he had beheld, and in the pofleflion of various articles of ufeful
application, or comparative magnificence, which would render him the
richeft inhabitant of his native iflands»
Mr. Cox, a commercial gentleman refident in China, was among thofc
whom Tianna regarded with that warm efteem which repeated kindnefs
never fails to excite in a grateful mind : and it would not be doing juftice
to this amiable Indian, if he were not represented as poflefling many of
thofe fentiments which do honour to the moft cultivated underftanding.
Mr.Cox not only man ifefted a general intereft in the honour and happinefs
of Tianna's future life, by the generous confignment of a confiderable
quantity of live cattle and other animals to the ifland of Atooi, but, with
the moft attentive humanity, defired even to indulge his unrefledling
fancy.
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1 i .,l-.'h on bonrd, "fof tlic
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i iuppiy the future navijja-
if. v^-'fsh the neq-rlTaj-y refrcfh-
It pi'ili. •- • ' tie. ifl»B:
: rfeeti ac' . , i t«» Tiannn,
,i faf illviitiriouu imth «ii<l HigK*
wiiried by me toChuiB^ and who
/ , ' '■■' ' 'lis country and his
. ' picture* of Ute
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K.iicii :i* |;*<>li'.'iins; many o)'
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tX-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 5
fancy, by appropriating a fum of money to be expended as bis own 1788.
untutored choice or wayward preference (hould dlreft. This kind ar- J*""***^.
rangement was, however, neceffarily fet afide ; and the imperfe£t judg-
ment of the chief fupplied by the better fuggeftions of his European
friends ; who dire£led the expenditure of the allotted fum, to procure him
thofe comforts and advantages which might laA during his life, and tend
to the improvement of his nation, inftead of gratifying the momeni.— _,
whim for thofe objcfts, which he himfelf might, at a future period,
perhaps, learn to defpife.
The time that could be fp.ired from the equipment of the (hips, was.
In a great mcafure, dedicated to this amiable chief, who was with diffi-
culty made to conceive the information that he was fo foon to embark for
his own iflands ; from whence, all the wonders of the new world to
which he had been introduced, were not fufficient to feparate his affec-
tions. The love of his country, a principle which feems to be inherent
in the human mind, in every ftate, and under every clime, operated
forcibly upon him. — Thofe domeftic afFedions which are the fupport of
all fociety, as well as the univerfal fource of happinefs ; and that pa-
rental fenfibility which, in a greater or lefs degree, influences all ani-
mated nature, from the higher order of man to the inferior claffes of
the animal world, did not lofe their energies in the breaft of Tianna.
His reflexion had often fickened at the thought of his family and his
country ; and the gaze of his aftonilhment frequently yielded to the in-
trufive gloom of painful thought ; — while the fame hour has often feen
him fmile with delight at the novelties which he beheld around him,
and weep, with bitter lamentations, the far dearer objects he had left be-
hind, when he refle£ted that he might behold them no more.
\}l
I
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When, therefore, he was affured of his approaching return to Atooi,—
the idea that he ihould again embrace the wife whonii he loved, and the
child
I ■iiiW . ' . '.. .»■>."
VOYAGES TO THE
m
\^'
Janvary
cliild on whom he doted, with all the added confequence which would
accompany him, from the knowledge he had acquired, the wealth he pof-
fefled,and the benefits he Hiould communicate to the place of his nativity,
produced tliole tranfports which fenfible minds may conceive, but which
language is unable to dcfcribe. . '< • , ,
To give a minute defcriptlon of his conduct, behaviour, and fenti-
ments, on his arrival at Canton, might be confidered as an unavailing
digrefiion, unworthy of that curiofity which it is the office of this vo-
lume to gratify. — It may not, however, be improper to obferve, that he
discovered a mind poflefled of thofe capacities which education might
have nurtured into intellectual fuperiorlty, and endued with thole fenfi-
bilities which forbid enlightened reafon from applying the name of
favage to any human being, of any colour or country, who poflefll-s
them.
When he firft beheld the (hips at Wampoa, his adoniHiment pofleffed
an aftivity which baffles dcfcription, and he emphatically called them
the iflands of Britamee ; but when he had furveyed their internal arrange-
ment, with all the various apparatus they contained, the immediate
impreflions they occafioned on his mind were thofe of dejedion ; he
hung his head in filence, and flied an involuntary tear, as it appeared,
over what he conceived to be his own inferior nature. — But the fame
fpirit which urged him to quit his native country, in order to return
with knowledge that might inftruft, and arts that might improve it,
foon aroufed him into an aftive and rational curiofity. — Indeed he very
Ihortly manifefted no common degree of intelleiftual exertion, by difcri-
minating, as occafion offered, between the people of the feveral Euro-
pean nations, whom he daily faw, and thofe of England, whom he
always called the men of BrUannee. — The natives of China he confidered
with a degree of difguft which bordered on extreme averfion ;— their
^f • > bald
,^r-^ f*" >*„*- — —
:, '^s-^ai^
— X'::
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
hsld heads, didended noftrih, and unmeaning features, had raifed in his 1788.
mind the ftrongeft fenfations of contempt : — Indeed it might be owing to J*" "*»»
the addition which the natural dignity of his perfon may be fuppofed to
receive from fuch a prevailing fentiment, whenever he found him fdf
amongft them, that the Chinefe appeared to regard him with awe, and
thiit, wherever he turned, the timid crowd never failed to open to
him a ready paflagei
Tianna was about thirty* two years of age ; he was near fix feet five
inches in ftature, and tlie mufcular form of his limbs was of an Herculean
appearance. His carriage was replete with dignity, and having lived in
the habits of receiving the refpedl due to fuperior rank in his own coun-
try, he poflefled an air of diftindlion, which we will not fuppofe could
fufFer any diminution from his obfervation of European manners. He
wore the drefs of Europe with the habitual eafe of its inhabitants, and
had not only learned the ufe and arrangement of its various articles
but applied his knowledge to the uniform and moft minute pradlice of
perfonal cleanlinefs and decorum. The natural habits of his mind,
however, occafionally recurred, and the childifli fancy of his native
ftate would fometimes intrude upon and interrupt the progrefs of his
improvement. He could not be taught to underftand the value of our
current coin, and when he wanted any thing that was to be purchafed
by it, he would innocently afk for iron ; which being the moft valuable
metal in his eyes, was naturally confidered by him as the medium of
barter among other nations.
To return Tianna to his native Ifland, operated very powerfully in
forming the arrangements of the voyage before us ;-his original defign
and inclination was to proceed to England ; and Captain Churchill, of the
Walpolc Eaft Indlaman, offered,, in the kindeft manner, to take him.
- under
1, ■ tl
u
■wi.j. . iijm""."!'!'.''*' ■ '«■
I VOYAGESTOTHE
1788. under his pi-ote£lion, nor could he have found a better proteAor ; but
January, to coiidgu him to another's care, and to fend him to a country from
whence there might be no future opportunity of returning to his own, ,
was a bufuiefs that his friends could not reconcile to their feelings.
The permitting him to leave Atooi, was confidcrcd as an unrcfle£l:ing
a£l; ind it was now determined that Tianna (hould return thither, if
not, in reality, nappier than bcfor«, at kaft poflefled of treafurcs beyond
any poftible expccft.ition of his unexperienced mind. But of all the
various rticlcs which formed his prefent wealth, his fancy was the
mofl di. lighted with a portrait of himfelf, painted by Spoilum, the cele-
brated artifl of China, and perhaps the only one in his line, throughout
that extenfivc empire. The painter had, indeed, moft faithfully repre-
fented the lineaments of liis countenance, but found the graceful figure
of the cliicf beyond the powers of his genius. The furprifc that
Tianna cxpreflcd, as the work proceeded, was various and extreme, and
feemed to follow with continual change every added Aroke of the
pencil. Wlien this painting was prefcnted to him, he received it with a
degree of folcmnity that ftruck all who beheld it ; and then, in a ftatc
of agitation in which he had never been feen by us, he mentioned the
cataftrophe which deprived tlie world of Captain Cook. He now, for
the firft time, informed us that a fierce war had been waged through-
out the Iflands, on account of a painting, which he called a portrait of
that great man, and which had been left with one of their moft potent
chiefs. This piilure, he added, was held facred amongft them, and '
the refpe£l they paid to it was confidercd by them as the only retribu-
tion they could make for their unfortunate deftrudion of its original.
It may not perhaps, be thought Improper, if a fhort digreflion is
made in this place, in order to ftate, that during our former ftay*
* Some account of this voyage is given in the IntroduAion.
amoI^g
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
among thefe idanders we had every opportunity of cftimatiug their
feelings with refpe£l to the lamented fate of Captain Cook, and we have
every reafon to believe that thefe diftant inhabitants of the watery
wafte, accompanied with fincere forrow, the regret of Europe. The
numbers of them which furrounded the fhip, with a view to obtain per-
miiTion to go to Britanneet to the friends of their beloved Cook, are
incredible. They wept and folicited with an ardour that conquered
every previous avcrfion. Prcfents were poured in upon us from the
chiefs, who were prevented by the multitude from approaching the
veffel, and the clamorous cry of Britanntt^ Britannec, was for a long
time vociferated from every part, and without ceafing : nor can their
filent grief be defcribed, when it was made known among them, that
Tianna, a prince of Atooi, was the only one feledted to the envied
honour of failing with ui.
1788.
jAMVAkY.
Previous to our departure, Tahco, the king of that ifland, paid us a
vifit, accompanied by all his chiefs. As they believed that the com-
manders of every European (hip, who had touched at their iflands, flnce
the death of Captain Cook, were the fons of that illuftrious navigator,
they, in the moft afFe£ling manner, deplored that event ; and while
each of them was folicitous to affert his own innocence, they united
in reprefenting the paffions that had urged them to commit the fat;?l
deed — which would be a fubjeft of their eternal contrition — as a punifh-
ment inflided on them by their gods. After thefe, and many fimilar
declarations, they renewed their offers of friendship to Br itannee, and
departed ; nor have we the lead doubt but that future navigators, who
may chance to ftop at thefe iflands, will find there a fecure and wel-
come afylum.
The other natives of the Sandwich Ifles and America, who were re-
ceived on board, had been brought to China, by difFcrent (hips, rather
. ^ as
m
10
V O V AG E S TO THE
1788. as objeiSls of curiofity, than from the better motive of inftruftion to
January. (j,g^^ or advantage to commerce: — they confifted of a woman of the
ifland of Owyhee, named VVinee, who was in a bad and declining ftata
of health ; a ftout man and boy from the ifland of Mowee, and a native
of King George's Sound ; the barbarous nature of whofe inhabitants
rendered it an ufelefs experiment to accompany him with any of thofe
advantages provided for the others.
On board of each fliip were embarked fix cows and three bulls, four
bull and cow calves, a number of goats, turkies, and rabbits, with fe-
veral pair of pigeons, and other ftock in great abundance. Unfortu-
nately it was not in our power, at this time, to procure flieep; but fe-
veral lime and orange-trees were purchafed and deftined for Atooi, as
Taheo, the fovereign of that ifland, poflcfled all the power neceflary to
proteft fuch valuable property. Had we been fo fortunate as to have
landed all the cargo prepared for the Sandwich Iflands, they would have
become the moft: eligible places for refrefliment in the whole extent of
the Northern Pacific Ocean. If, however, the American commerce
fliould be purfued, very confiderable advantages will be found to refult
even from that part of our defign which was compleated.
ninJayzi . O" ^he evening of the zid of January, both flilps weighed from
the Typa to proceed to fea ; but it falling calm fliortly after, and the
tide of flood fetting againft us, the fignal was made for anchoring,
which was accordingly performed in the roads, in fix fathoms, over a
muddy bottom. The Iphigenia being in a ftronger part of the tide, was
driven farther up the roads, and anchored about two miles aftern of
us. Wc here found riding, the Argyleftiire, a large country fliip, of
between fix and feven hundred tons, bound to Bengal : — flie was after-
wards unfortunately lofl: in her paflage from Bengal to China, and every
foul on board fuppofed to have pcrilhed.
•^ I
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
XI
'■;(.?■
1788.
jANUAIir.
sf
CHAP. II.
The IPHIGEHIA /prings ber Foremaji. — Pajfage to the Philippities.-^Sail along
the Coaji of Luconia. — Pafs Goat IJland, the JJlei of Luban, IJland of
Mindoro and the Calamines. — Scurvy breaks out on Board the Iphigeni A.—
Pafs the IJland of Panay. — Mutinous Conduct of the Crew on board the
Felice, &c. ...
ABOUT nine o'clock in the evening, an air of wind fprung up Sundays.
from the South Eaft, Avhich, though dire«3:ly againft us, deter-
mined us to put to fea; and the (ignal was made to the Iphigenia to .
weigh.— -By ten o'clock both (hips were under fail, the wind light and
variable from the fouthward. — We continued {landing to the Grand La-
drone until midnight, when it became extremely foggy, which occa-
fioned us to (horten fail for the Iphigenia, which was confiderably aftern.
The foundings were regular, from four to fix fathoms, over a muddy
bottom. — We now loft fight of the Argylefhire, who alfo weighed and
proceeded to the South Weft.
, , ■,..■.'.'.*"
The morning of the 23d was extremely foggy ; and in the night we had Monday 23
loft fight of the Iphigenia.— The wind now veered to the Eaft North
Eaft, and began to freflien up; on which a fignal was made with two
guns to the Iphigenia, to get the larboard tacks on board, and ftand to
the South Eaft.--At noon the fog cleared away, when the Iphigenia was
perceived about a league to leeward of us. — During the night we kept
B 2 ^ firing
\k
m
* iii»i
12
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. firing guns, and beating the gongs* ^ »" order that flie might judge of
January. ^^^ fituation. By obfervation, our latitude was 20" 54' North, and
longitude 114° 24' Eaft ; the South Weftorn part of the Prata (hoal bore
in the direftion of South, 73"^ Eaft, diftant 40 leagues ; Cape Bolinou,
South, 50° Eaft, diftant 419 miles.
As it was our intention to make the coaft of Luconia well to wind-
ward, we refolved to keep as much as poflible to the Eaftward, being
apprehenfive of experiencing foutherly currents at this feafon of the
year. — We preferred making the coaft of Luconia to that of Mindoro, or
the Calamines, the coaft of the latter being furrounded with numerous
ftioals, rocks, and fragments of iflets, which render the navigation ex-
tremely dangerous, and require the greateft precaution in failing through
* fuch an extenfive Archipelago. — The charts of thefe feas, by Mr. Dal-
rymple, moft certainly poflefs a great degree of accuracy, but are, as we
fuppofe, neccffarily formed on fuch a confined fcale, and marked with fuch
extreme delicacy, as to leflen their intended utility for the common pur-
pofes of navigation. — By adhering to this track we hoped to experience lefs
boifterous weather, from being flieltcred, in fome meafure, by the coaft
of Luconia, and at the fame time to fteer clear of many dangerous-
(hoals, which lie at fome diftance from its coaft, and are, indeed, fcattered.
throughout thefe feas. . _
WcineHiayij- The courfe was continued to the South Eaft, till the 25th ; the
weather gloomy and unpleafant; the wind blowing fteadily from the
Eaft North Eaft, and North Eaft by Eaft, with a very heavy fea. The
latitude, at noon, was 18° North; the longitude 117° i' Eaft. The
South
• A China gong refemblcs, in fome degree, the form of a fieve; and is made of a mixture
of metals. I'he China junks ufe tiiem as bells ; and, when they are flruck with a wooden
mallet, produce a deep, fonorous nuifc.
\ _-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 13
South Maroona (hoal bearing North 61" Eafti diftance 49 leagues ; Cape 1788.
Bolinou 62° Eaft, diftant 67 leagues. . -. < January.
The Iphigenia proved but an heavy failer, when compared with the
Felice, fo that we were continually obliged to fhorten fail on her ac-
count; an inconvenience which we determined to get rid of, by feparating
company from her, and making the beft of our way, as foon as we had
got clear of the Sooloo Sea.
In the evening we fpoke with the Iphigenia, when Captain Douglas
informed us that the (hip had fprung a leak In the late bad weather,
above the copper, which obliged him to keep one pump going, but that
he hoped to flop it the firft favourable moment. — This accident occafioned
no inconfiderable degree of uneafinefs. — Circumftances of this kind have
a very unpleafant tendency to difhearten feamen, who, with all their
hardy courage, are very fubjeft to be influenced by fuperftitious omens
of the moft trifling and ridiculous nature ; and which, if they (hould
happen in the beginning of a voyage, will frequently operate upon their
minds and condudl through the moft lengthened courfe of it.
Our China crew were all extremely affeaed by fea-ficknefs, wliichwas
a very difcouraging circumftance ; and the exceffive rolling and tumbling
of the (hip, caufed the cattle to droop ; indeed, from the apparent
impofilbility of preferving them all,durii)g fuch a long voyage,-- from the
want of proper food, and as there were a greater quantity on board than
were necefl'ary to (lock tlie iflands to which they were dcftined,--it was
thought proper to kill them all but two cows and a ball, and one bull
and one cow calf, who might, we hoped, become enured to tJie voyage,
and be preferved to their deftination. Accordingly two of them were
killed,
..i-^ ■'^~"*^-., ■■,...«-.^
14
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. killed, and frefh meat ferved to the crew, with barley, which made them
January, comfortable mcfles.
» r
During the evening it blew very (Irong indeed, with an heavy fea. —
We continued {landing to the South Eaft, in the hope of being able to
weather the North Maroona (hoal ; the pofition of which, according to
Mr. Dalrymple, is extremely doubtful ; — we therefore kept the beft look-
out in our power. ' '
At five o'clock we were alarmed, by perceiving that the Iphigenia
Ipread abroad the fignal of diftrefs, which denoted, at the fame time,
that flie was not in want of immediate afliftance: we however inftantly
bore up and fpoke to her ; when Captain Douglas informed us that his
fore-maft was fo dangeroufly fprung, that fome method muft be immedi-
ately taken to fecure it ; but the fea ran fo high, and it blew at the
fame time fo ftrong, that we were prevented from affording any afliftance
whatever; w.e fliortentJ fail, however, immediately; and l)efore night
the Iphigenia had her fore-top-maft and top-gallant-maft on deck, and
her forcmaft entirely ftripped. . - '-
It was now abfolutely neceffary for us to keep under what pcflible fail
we could ; and as the Iphigenia was able to keep abroad her main-topfail,
main-fail, and mizen, to give thefe fails their proper efFeifl during the
night, we kept two points from the wind, under an eafy fail, giving up
all hopes of weathering the North Maroona, and being doubtful even
of keeping our wind fufficient to weather the South Maroona, which is
defcribed as extremely dangerous, and whofe fituation is as uncertain as
that of the Northern- (hoal of the fame name. — It blew very hard during
the night, with a heavy fea ; the Iphigenia appearing to labour ex-
ceedingly.
. This
\ 1
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
■ This was, indeed, a very unfortunate event ; the weather we had to
encounter was very much to be dreaded, and the crippkd ftate of the
Iphigenia's maft greatly increafed our apprehenfions; as, in cafe it (hould
meet with any further injury, there was no friendly port nearer to us
than Batavia, where we (hould be able to replace it. Our fituation,
driven as we were about thofe feas, and furrounded by dangerous (hoals,
was truly dlftreffing and alarming. — It was impoflible for us to make
the land, as we might be thrown into a fituation which would encreafe
the danger of the Iphigenia ; and as to leaving her in fo diftreffed a con-
dition, fuch a defign did not occur to us for a moment; befides, we
were not without apprehenfions of being driven too far to the Southward,
which would render it impoffible for us to get hold of the coaft of Luco-
iiia, Mindoro or the Calamines, and under fuch circumftances, inAead
of making the paflage of the Sooloo Sea, we fhould have been obliged to
take our courfe through the Straits of Sunda, and reach the Northern
Pacific Ocean by the Straits of Macaffer, of which, after all, we were
rather doubtful ; or, by doubling the South Eaftern extremity of New
Holland, if we fliould give up the paflage of the Endeavour's Straits— It
is very eafy to conceive the uneafincfs we fuffered from the bare profpedt
of fuch a circuitous navigation.
»5
1788.
Janua «,y.
)'
The weather did not moderate until the twenty-fixth at noon: the Thurfday »&
latitude was then 17° 5' North, and the longitude 1 18° Eaft. The
South Weftern end of the North Maroona bore in the direaioa of South
Eaft, diftant thirty leagues. We kept ftanding towards it during the
night under fuch fail as the Iphigenia could Ipread, and we very much
wifhed to have fent a boat on bojird her : but, on a fudJeii, the weather
became as tempeftuous as ever, fo that we could neither fend carpenters
or plank to her afliftance.— A ftage had been ereded round her maft head,
but a great hollow fca increafed our alarms for her fituation.
This
'»y awn — T~j|
w
i6
1788.
JANUAnr.
Friday »7
V O YAG E S T O T H E
This day, another of the cattle was killed for the crew ; indeed, the
exceflive tumbling and rolling of the fliips made us defpair of faving any
of them ; twpof the fineft goats having already been crufhed by a fudden
roll of itie (hip. — During the night it blew extremely hard, with a great
hollow fca. — We kept fteering to the South Eaft, frequently bringing
too for the Iphigenia, (he being under fuch fmall fail.
This unfavourable weather continued till the 27th, at noon. The
latitude was 16° 20' North, and longitude 119° 12' Eaft. The obfer-
vation, however, was but of little dependence, from the variety of cur-
rents which we experienced. The wind had veered to the Northward t
and we hauled up Eaft South Eaft, proportioning our fail to that of the
Iphigenia. It was, indeed, apprehended, that an Eafterly current had
fet us to the Weftward, as our latitude was 16° ao' North, without
feeing any thing of the flioal. As we could not fuppofe it poftible that
we (hould be to the Eaftward of the Maroona, we were under the ne-
cefiity of hauling to the Eaft, as much as the running of a very high fea
would permit.
In the evening we fpoke with Captain Douglas, who informed us that
the head of his foremaft was entirely rotten, and that it was with great
difficulty the carpenters could proceed in their attempts to fecure it from
the high, rolling fea — Before night, however, we had the fatisfa^tion of
feeing the Iphigenia's fore-top over head, and her lower rigging fet up ;
fo that our fears of being driven fo the fouthward of Mindoro, in fome
meafure, fubfided.
It was, however, determined, that, from the great extent of feas we
had to crofs, the riflt would be too great for the Iphigenia, in her prefent
ftate, to attempt fuch a paffage without having her maft well fecured; or,
• if
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
if condemned, to be replaced by another.— It was therefore refolved to
call a furvey of the carpenters on it, the (irft favourable moment ; and it
was abfolutcly ntceflary to fix immediately on fbme place where the
repairs that ftiould be found requifite could be accomplifhcd. The Spanifh
fcttlement of Samboingan, on the Southern extremity of Magindanao was
con(idcred as the beft place for our purpofe; and though we had fcarcely
ever heard of it, and the hofpitality of the Spaniards was always to be
doubted, our neceflity obliged us to fuch a determination, rather than
proceed to Batavia, or encounter the coaft of New Holland.
»7
1788.
This evening, we pafled great quantities of rock-weed and drifc>wood,
which made us apprehentive of falling in with the flioals.
In the morning, the ifland of Luconia was difcerned from the mafi< Sauirdijr ii.
head, bearing from Eafl North EsiCi, to Ead South Ead, didant i z or
14 leagues, and bore an high and mountainous appearance. As we clofed
in with the land, the weather becimc moderate and fine, and the fea
entirely fubfided. The Iphigenia had got up her fore top- mart. At
noon the obferved latitude was 16° 16' North; fo that, during the laft
twenty-four hoUrs, we had experienced a ftrong Northerly current.
H.
Nothing can more ftrongly prove the danger of navigating tlie China
feas, than the variety of contrary currents which we experienced in lb
(hortatime: — During the greater part of the North Baft Monfoon, it
has been generally obferved, that a Northerly current fets along the
coaft of Luconia, as far as Cape Bolinou : there the great body of water
rufhing through the ftraits which form the paffage between Formofa,
this Ifland, and the Babuyanes, checks this current, and turns it into the
China Sea, where it receives a Southerly direftion, at the diftance of 15
or 20 leagues from the coaft of Luconia.
C The
I
I,
).
1788.
Janvarv.
VOYAGESTOTHR
The currents, at all periods of the North Eaft Monfoon, run ftrongly
to the Southward iii thofe feas, excepting near Luconia ; but the ftreams
of them acquire greater force at the diftance of 30 or 40 leagues from
the fliores of this ifland, than they do off the coaft of China : this circum-
ftance may be occafioned by the jun£lion of the waters paffing through
the flraits of Luconia, and thofe between China and Formofa. Ships
bound for China, which. are late in the feafon, might avail themfelves
of thcfe currents to reach Cape Bolinou, when an eafy and pretty fecure
paflage is open to Canton. Indeed, bordering on the coaft of Luconia may
be attended with great advantages ; for, independent of this Northerly
current, fine weather is generally experienced. At times, variable winds ;
—in the very height of the North Eaft Monfoon, it has fometimes been
known to blow a fmart gale from the South Weft.
As our apprehenfions had continued to increafe of being drifted to
the fouthward, the fatisfadion we felt at thus getting in with the land
may be eafily conceived. Towards the evening of this day it fell
calm; but, about nine o'clock, a frefli breeze fprungup from the South
Weft, which made us ftand on our tacks, for the night, on and ofF
fhore ; where we faw feveral fires, which remained burning during the
greater part of the night. Our diftance was between fix and feven
leagues.
Sunday 19. In thc moming, the land bore from North North Eaft, to South
South Eaft, our diftance being about fix leagues:— it appeared very
mountainous, and was covered with wood, except in fome detached
places, on the declivity of the mou itains. Vaft columns of fmoke
afcended from the interior heights, which denoted population. The
latitude at noon was 15° 52' North. During the evening and the night,
we
L
. r'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
t9
we continued {landing to the laad, but could find no foundings with an 1788.
hundred and fifty fathoms of line. • January.
■ The land extended from North by Eaft, to North Eaft by Eaft, diftant Monday 30
about fix leagues; at which diftance we kept fleering along the fliore to
the Southward and Eaftward ; the latitude was 15° 19' North, by ob-
fervation. The weather was extremely moderate, and pleafant under
the land, the fea remarkably fmooth,and a continuation of high, moun-
tainous country, covered with wood, prefented itfelf to our view.
At night, it blew a frelh breeze from the Weftward ; and we flood to
the South by Eait, to make Goat Iflaiid, keeping a good look out for
fome flioals that are faid to lie to the Northward of the ifland.
In the morning, about eight o'clock. Goat Ifland was feen, bearing Tuefdayjt
North Eaft by North, about the diftance of fix leagues; the coaft of
Lucoiiia bearing, at this time, from North by Weft to South Eaft, at the
diftance of 14 leagues. From an obfervation made at noon, the latitude
was if 45' North.' .
Goat Ifland appeared of a moderate height, and to be well wooded
but without any fign of inhabitants. The Luban Iflands were perfeft
mountains covered with woods : — The Spanifh charts, indeed, reprefent
the Lubans as conne£led by (hoals with Goat Ifland ; but we could not
perceive any broken water, or procure foundings with onj hundred and
fifty fathoms of line.
We took the opporfmity of the favourable weather we now enjoyed
to put the fhipsin 3 f-" of defence. The guns were accordingly
mounted, a fufficient qua'itity of powder and ammunition was filled,
C2 and
i'
0;.j, -7
so
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
January,
ll^ I
and every other neceflary preparation made, as thofe feas are infefled
with numerous bands of pirates. Two very fine (hips had lately been
taken by them. One of them was the May, of 300 tons, and mounting
twenty guns, and had been on a trading voyage from Bengal to the.coaft
of Borneo. G,:ncral intelligence was received from the Malays of her
being deftroyed, but not a fingle perfon efcaped to relate the particulars.
Several other fhips have very narrowly efcaped deftrudion '■ indeed,
fcarce a year pafles away, but fome cataftrophe of this kind happens.
The proas from Magindanao and Sooloo iflue forth in fuch fwarms, that
it becomes dangerous for a weak fliip to fail thofe feas. Thefc proas arc
manned with an hundred, and fometlmes an hundred and fifty men,
well armed, and generally mounting pieces of cannon of fix or twelve
pounders. As foon as a fhip is captured by them, a carnage enfues, —
and the unhappy few wliofurvive it are carried into irredeemable flavcry.
Thel'e people cruife in fleets of thirty or forty of thefe proas ;. nay, fome-
timcs an hundred of tliem have been perceived in company ; and though
we did not very much apprehend that they would venture to attack two
fliips, it would have been an unpardonable negligence if we had not pre-
pared ourfelves for whatever might happen. We availed ourfelves alfo
oftheprefcnt favourable opportunity to furvey tlie mails of the Iphi-
genia, and deliver her fuch flores and other articles as we knew that fhe
wanted, to put her in a refpedable flate of defence. We therefore fent
on board her two additional piects of cannon with a requlfite proportion
of powder, ball, and other ammunition ; and in return received a quan-
tity of coals for the forges, and feveral other neceffary articles.
Additional reafons continually nrofe why the fhips ihguld feparate on
the firft opportunity after we had cleared thefe dangerous feas. But, if
even there had been no other, the P'elice, by keeping company with the
Iphigcnia, who was at bcfl inferior in point of failing, would have been
very
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
21
very much impeded in her voyage ; and it was become neceffary to make 1788.
every poflible exertion to fave our feafon on the coaft of America. angary.
In the evening the carpenters returned from thelphigtnia, and reported
the mart to be, in every refpefl, unequal to the voyage ; they even
doubted whether it would carry her to Samboingan. The head was
quite rotten and fupported by the cheeks : good fifhes, however, were
put on and fee u rely v.ooldcd.
At funfct the ifland of Mindoro was feen bearing South Eaft by Eaft,
dlftant 10 leagues. The wind blew very ftrong from the Eaflr, and it
came down in violent puffs from the high mountains of Luban : during
the night a prefs of fall was carried to reach under the fliore of Mindoro.
The wind blew invariably from the Eaft, fo that we became apprehen-
five of being entangled with the iflands called the Calamines, which are
not only i<i great number, but extremely dangerous. The top fails were
reefed, and as much fail as we could well keep abroad was carried, which
brought us happily under Mindoro about midnight. It foon after became
fqually, and as It would have been very h-azardous in a dark night, and
on an unknown coaft, to run, tlie fignal was made to the Iph^genla to
heave to with her head ofFlhore ; we immediately did the fame ; but fiie
had ftretched ahead out of fight, though flie anfwcred our fgnal. —
During the night it blew very hard, and we were continually founding,
but could find no ground with an hundred fathoms of line. The inha»
bitants not only kept numerous and conftant fires along the ftiores, but
had even lighted them on the very fummits of the mountains.
'.i 'i
Febri;a»t.
At day break we occupied much the fame fitiiatlon as when we hove "^^
to mthe night. The Iphigenla was near four leagues a-head, but we
. made
ll'jl
X
I
ft
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. made fail and joined her by noon. Our latitude was 12° 59' North:
FEBauART. The ifland of Mindoro bore South Eaft by Eaft,— dlftaut fix leagues.
The ifland of Mindoro at funfet, bore from North by Eaft half Eaft,
to South Eaft by Eaft, half Eaft ; our diftance from the fliore about fix
leagues. In the night it was, as ufual, very tempeftuous, and we ex-
perienced a very ftrong current againft us, which caufcd fuch a confuted
fea, that we were apprehenfive for our mafts and yards. Early in the
evening we had ftiortened fail, and kept a good look out for the (hoals
that lie between Mindoro and the Calamines. In order to clear them,
we hauled clofe under tlie fhore of the former ifland ; the channel be-
tween Mindoro and thofe ftioals being reprefented as three leagues wide.
The fires appeared to be more numerous on the declivity of the moun-
tains, and were kept burning all night.
Tiuirfday i. At nine o'clock in the morning we perceived the Calamine Iflands,
bearing South Weft to Sout'i Eaft, diftant fixtccn or feventeen leagues.
The weather had alfo taken a favourable turn ; it was become moderate
and pleafant, and we congratulated ourfelves very much on entering this
channel ; as the ftrong Eafteily winds might have blown us to the
Southward and VVcftward of the Calamines, which would have obliged
us to have bore up along the coaft of Palawan, and made our entrance
again into the Sooloo Sea very precarious at this feafon of the year. We
now found the advantage of keeping the ftiores of the Philippines on
board, whenever the winds permitted us ; but in accomplifhing this we
experienced fome difficulty from the conftant North Eaft and Eaft
winds, which obliged us to carry a conftant prefs of fail.
^ Captain Douglas embraced this opportunity to inform us that the
fcurvy had made its appearance on board his fhip. The carpenter,
two
K^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA;
txvn of the quarter-nufters, and fome of the feameii were already 111, —
others difcovered fymptoms which were truly alarming, — their legs
fvvelling, and tlieirgums becoming putrid. They were, therefore, im-
mediately put on a diet, — fpruce beer was ordered to be conftantly
brewed, and ferved in the room of fpirits, — feveral balkets of oranges
were fent on board, whcfe efficacious qualities in this diftemper are well
known, and every other ^tilcorbutic was immediately brought into
application, in order to check this early appearance of a diforder, whofe
continuance would be attended with fuch fatal confequences.
23
1788.
Febkuaky,
We very fenfibly perceived the cncreafing heat of the weather. On
leaving China, we had it piercing cold ; and now, on a fudden, we felt
the oppofite extreme. Such a change, witli the heavy dews which fell
morning and evening, was a very unhealthy circumftance ; neverthelefs
we were rather aftoniflied, that men who had fo lately quitted the fhore,
where they had a plentiful allowance of frefli provifions and vegetables,
and who had not tafted fait meat for many months, (hould be attacked
with fuch violent fcorbutic fymptoms, and at fuch an early period of
our voyage. Befides, we were extremely careful in the diftribution of
their food; the fait provifions were always well ftceped ; rice and peas
were boiled alternately every day ; tea and fugar were given the
crews for breakfaft ; they had a plentiful allowance of water, and every
poffible attention was paid to preferve cleanlinefs among them : they
were never permitted to fleep on deck, left they fliould be afFeded by
the unwholfome dews ; and no fpirits were fufFered to be iflijed in their
raw ftate,— a circumftance of the laft importance to all feamen. Indeed
thefe precautions fhould be redoubled with refpeft to men who have
made frequent voyages to India, as their blood becomes, on that ac-
count, more liable to the attacks of this moft formidable diforder.
iU
We
K e
m
I7S8.
FeBRl'*RV.
VOYAGES TO THE
We kept fleering, during the night, under the fhores of MIndoro;
the topfails were clofe reefed, and, the weather being very fqually, wc
frequently founded, but could find no bottom with an hundred fathoms
of line, though wit li in four leagues of the land.
riuiayj This morning we loft fight of Mindoro, and at noon the Ifland of
Paiiay was feen bearing from North Eaft bv Eaft, to South Eaft, dif-
tant nine leagues; the weather moderated with the wind from the
North Eaft. The latitude at noon was ii°53' North.
The Ifland of Mindoro is of confiderable extent ; in fome parts it ap-
peared to be only of a moderate height, in others very mountainous, and
almoft everywhere covered with wood. From the numerous columns of
fmoke which we obferved afcending both from the vallies and the moun-
tains, during the day, and the fires that continued to illuminate the night,
there is the greateft reafon to fuppofe that it poflefles a confiderable de-
gree of population. Some parts which we were able to obferve diftindl-
ly, appeared to be truly delightful ; they confifted of extenfive lawns,
clothed in the fineft verdure, watered with filver rivulets, and adorned with
groves of trees, fo difpofed, either by art or nature, as to form fcenes
of rural beauty which would adorn the moft refined ftate of European
cultivation.
Thuffdaj^ On the following day we ranged up with the Ifland of Panay : the
latitude at noon was 10° 36' North; our diftance from the land four
miles ; and, which is very extraordinary, without being able to find
foundings with eighty fathoms of line. Numerous villages appeared on
the declivity of the hills, and the whole country formed a moft luxuri-
ant profpeft. The habitations feemed to be extremely well built, and
arranged with great .•■egularity. The hills were verdant, and their gentle
flopes
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2i
(lopes were varied with ftreams of water running down to the plains, i^sS.
where they flowed round, or meandered through well-cultivated plan- February.
tations :— the whole forming piftures of nature equal to thofe which we
had feen on the preceding day; and received every advantage from the
very fine weather we now enjoyed.
Our eyes wandered over the pidurefque and fruitful fcene now before
us, with the moft fenfible pleafure. We were, at times, within three
miles of the fliore, which, near the water-fide, formed a fine fandy beach
lined with cocoa-nut trees, beneath whofe (hade we beheld the natives,
in great numbers, enjoying a cool retreat from the intenfe heat of the
fun, and buficd in the various occupations of the day. We very much
regretted that we had not time to caft anchor here, in order to have en-
joyed fome communication with them. It may not be alfo unworthy
of remark, that we did not difcover a fingle canoe or fi(hing-boat on that
part of the coaft along which we paffed.
At this time a mutiny^^itS difcovered on board the Felice ; whicli,
however, was fortunately quelled by gentle means, even before it had
communicated itfelf to the whole crew. But, in order to (tamp fome
degree of difgrace upon the bufinefs, all the circumftances of it were
inferted in the log-book of the (hip.
And here it may not be improper to offer an opinion, that, if in long
voyages, all the particulars of the good and bad behaviour of the crew
were defcribcd in the log-book as they arofe, fuch a regulation would
be attended with the happieft ronfequences. Shame will always be found
to operate, more or lefs, on cvr-y man, whatever his rank or employ-
ment of life may be, who is not abfoUitely abandoned ; and to fuch, the
fevered puni(hmcnt will have no efFeft beyond the fmarting of the mo-
^ ment.
;| |lt>l
11
lU :.«
^' fj
" \ it
i
a6
1788.
VOYAGES TO THE
ment. Indeed I ain (irmly of opinion, that many a failor, with ail the
hardy training of a fea life, and all the infenfibility attributed to a fea^*
man's charadter, would be deterred from an improper condu£t, by the
apprehenfion of having it regiftered in the records of the (hip, when the
temporary pain of corporal punifhmcnt would be confidercd with con-
tempt.
Indeed I cannot but lament the incflRcacy of the marine laws^ to reftraiiv
the unlawful behaviour of failors on board merchant (hips. It is a real
difgrace to the (irft maritime and conunercial nation in the world, to
have been fo long without an e(labli(hed fyftem of regulations to pre-
ferve the obedience of feamen in the trade fervice, as well as that in the
navy. How many (hips have been loft, from the licentious, ungovern-
able conduct of their crews ! and how many voyages rendered unpro-
(itable from the fame caufe. Neverthelefs, it does not appear that any
efforts have been made to prevent fuch a manrfeft inconvenience to the
. commerce of our country. Other nations have included merchant (hips
in the general laws enaded for maritimaiWbordination ; and it is of real
confequence to this country to follow fuch a falutary example, and to
form a code of regulations that miy operate to keep in a due ftate of
difcipline a clafs of men who are fo necefTary to the commerce, the
flrength, and the glory of the Britifh empire.
i
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
27
i;88.
CHAP. III.
Sickntfs of the Sandwich JJlanders. — Death ofJVmee ; her Chara£lei\ ^c. —
DeJlrtdSiion of Cattle. — IJlands ofBafilan and Magitidanao. — The Ships anchor
off the /alter. — The Carpenters and Party fen t on Shore to cut a Majl, &c.
— Lofs of a China Man. — Spaniards fent on board to compliment the Ships.
■—Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera. — Behaviour of the Spanifli Gover-
^c. ■
wcr
OUR friends of Owyhee had fufFercd extremely during the pafliige TMirfJay4
acrofs the China feas. Tianna, in hisconftant attendance upon Wi-
nce, had caught a fever, which, with the humr^ie anxiety he felt on her
account, confined him for fome time to his bed. The man from Nootka-
Sound, however, poirefling a very robufl conftitution, bore the inconve-
niencies of the voyage with little complaint; but the poor, unfortunate
woman juftified our fears concerning her, that (he would ntvcr again fee
her friends or native land. She every day declined in ftrength, and
nothing remained for us, but to eafe the pains of her approaching dif-
folution, which no human power could prevent. Nor did we fiil, I be-
lieve, in any attention that humanity could fuggeft, or that it was in our
power to beflow. She had been fur fome time a living fpc£lre, and on
the morning of the fifth of February (he expired. At noon her body was
committed to the deep ; nor was it thought an unbecoming a£t to grace
her remains with the formalities of that religion which opens wide its
arms to the whole human race, of every colour, and under every clime,
to the favage as well as to the faint and the fage. Tianna was fo much af-
D 2 feftcd
i i"^
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m
MXUH
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■/I .J
1^
1 v^kSI
%
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aS
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. fe£led by the circumftance of her death, that we were for fome time
FittvART. ^r,j„,. ygry painful apprehenfions left his health might fuffer from the
feelings of his humanity 011 this occaHon ; as he pofleffed, in a very
great degree, that delicacy of conftitution which difcriminates the
chiefs from the vulgar people, and is peculiar to the great men of hi»
country. ....
Thus ditd Winee, a native of Owyhee, one of the Sandwich Iflands,
who poflefled virtues that are fetdom to be found in tlje clafs of her coun-
trywomen to which (he belonged ; and a portion of undcrftanding that
was not to be expeded in a rude and uncultivated mind. It may not,
perhaps, be uninterefting to mention the caufe of this poor girl's de-
parture from her friends and country, which it was her fate never to
behold again.
Captain Barclay, who commanded the Imperial Eagle, was one of
thofe adventurers to the coaft of America, who made a very fuc-
cefsful voyage. Mrs. Barclay accompanied her hulband, and (hared with
him in the toils, the hardfhips, and viciffitudes incident to fuch long, as
well as perilous voyages ; but by no means calculated for the frame, the
temper, or the education of the fofter fex. This lady was fo pleafed
with the amiable manners of poor Winee, that (he felt a defire to take
her to Europe ; and for that purpofe took her, with the confent of her
friends, under her own particular care and protedtion. On Mrs. Bar-
clay's departure from China for Europe, Winee was left, as we have
already mentioned, in a deep decline, to embark for her country, with
the reft of the natives of the Sandwicli Iflands.
On the nr.orning of her death, ftie prefented Tianna, as a token of
her gratitude for his kind attentions to her, with a plate looking-glafs,
and
^i*^vfii^
"•CSS^*
••■4.. •-■' .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
»9
and a bafon and bottle of the fineft. China: to thefe gifts (he alfo added 1788.
a gown, an hoop, a petticoat, and a cap for his wife ; the reft of hrr
property, confifting of a great variety of articles, (he bequeathed to her
family ; and they were depofited with Tianna, to be delivered to her
father and mother.
«
Nor let faftidious pride c.ift a fmilc of contempt on the trifles that com-
poled her little trcafure. They were wealth to her, and would have
given her a very flattering iinpo:tancc, had flic lived to have taken them
to her native ifland. But when we confider the fuffcrings of her mind,
on the reflexion that flie fliould never behold her country again ;—
when we fse, as it were, the dilappointment of an inofFenfivc pride
preying on her fpirits ; — when to thefe caufes of dcjedlion are added the
pains of incurable difeafc, increafed by the tofliiig of the billows, and
the violence of tempeftuous fcas, — humanity muft feel for thofe mife-
ries which haunt every corner of the earth, — and yield a compaflionate
tear to the unfortunate Winee !
The bad weather had, at this time, greatly reduced our ftock of cattle,
— there now remained of our original number, but one bull, one cow,
and one cow-calf ;— all the goats, except two, had periflicd.
At funfet, on the fifth, we had almoft loft fight of Panay ; Point de
Nafib, the fouthern extremity, then bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant (evei\
leagues. The weather was extremely hazy, with the wind from the
North Eaft ; and we kept fteering during the night to the fouthward
and eaftward, under an eafy fail, for the fouthern extremity of the
idand of Magindanao, which we defcried on the morning of the 6th of
February, at day-break, bearing Eaft, fcven or eight leagues diftant :
it appeared high, and very mountainous. At noon, the latitude
was
Saturday 6
fll
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M
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Vi V J
M
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ml
jal
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\ i
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I
I
-p -VOYAGES TO THE
1788. was 7' 22' North, and our diftance from the land three leagues. The
Febrwart. mountains jutted abruptly into the fea ; and from their fummits to the
water's edge, were covered with wood. We were continually founding,
but could find no bottom with an hundred fathoms of line.
It now became a matter for our choice, either to fleer direftly to
Sooloo, or to the Spanish fcttknicnt of ^\^mboingan ; the latter, however,
was preferred, it being thoii!;lit by no means prudent to run fo far to
leeward as the former. DjIIJus, as it was, the continual North Eaft
winds made us apprchenfivc, tliat we (h(Hild find it rather a difficult
matter to weather Jclolo, or even New Guinea ; it was tlierefore deter-
mined to keep the fliore of Magindanao clofe on board, and truft to chance
to fupply our wants : we continued running down the ifland till fun-
fet, the fhores being bold, and no danger to be apprehended, as we
could procure no ground. The Weftern extremity bore South South
Eaft five leagues ; and as we thought it rather hazardous to run during
the night, the (Ignal was therefore made to heave too till morning ;
when we refumed our courfe, at about the diftance of a mile from the
Sunday 7 (hofe. lii the night we had experienced a Northerly current.
At noon, the ifland of Bafilan was feen, bearing South South Weft
nine leagues. Our latitude was 7° 8' North. It had a very fingular ap-
pearance, from a great number of hills of a conical form ; one of whicli
terminated its Eaftern extremity, and refembled, in fliapc, the cap of a
Chinefe Mandarin. It was a very confpicuous objcdV, being the highcft
of this curious groupe of hills. This ifland lies near Eaft and Weft ; and
feveral other iflands, but of much lefs extent, appear off its Wefteru
point.
1 ■>
V I:
u
About
^:
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
3«
About three in the afternoon, we opened the channel that feparates 1788.
Bafilan from Magindanao. At half part three, the Southern extremity of ***"**'^*
Magindanao was doubled ; and we entered this channel, which appeared
to be of confiderable breadth, with fcvenil Imall iflands in the midft of
it. Our foundings were from twenty-five to thirty fathoms, over a
rocky bottom. The South end of Magindanao we eftimate to lie in the
latitu le of 6° 56' North ; the fhore was every where covered with
wood, down to the Tea.
At half part four we were moft agreeably furprifed at feeing a fmall
ftone fort feated on the Magindanao Ihore, contiguous to a ftream of run-
ning water, and about two miles from the South point. At the fame
time a large village was feen more to the Eaftward. The enfign was
immediately hoifted, which very foon occafioned the Spanifh colours to
be difplayed from the Fort, and we were now' no longer in doubt that
the place was Samboingan. It was a fquare building, with ceiitry boxes
at each angle, covered with thatch, and the ramparts feemcd to be
crouded with Malayans ; but on the whole it had the appearance but of
a very indifFerent fortification;
M
\\Y
» !
The tide of ebb now came ftrongly ngaiiirt us, and the fignal was
made for anchoring, which was accordingly done in eleven fathoms,
over a muddy bottom, at the diftance of about two miles from the fort,
and within a quarter of a mile from the fhore, which appeared to be
covered with an impenetrable wood.
The boats were immediately hoifted out, and the carpenters lent to
examine the nature of the woods. We now obfervcd with our glafles
the Spanifh colours flying on another fortification adjoining to the village,
and before which two gallies were riding at anchor. About five o'clock,
a fmall
> I
^1
mm
i
I'^^i
ly I:.
^ V
3*
1788.
FlBKVARY.
VOYAGES TO THE
a fmall boat came along-fide us, with a white flag flying in her bow ; —
flic w:is rowed by four Malayans, and had on board three Spanifh Padres
or Priefts. At firft they appeared to be extremely apprehenfive that our
arrival foreboded fome kind of hoftility ; but being aiTurcd that our
intentions were peaceable and friendly, they accepted our invitation to
come on board, and having taken fome refrcfliment, they returned to the
village ; after having cautioned us not to permit any of our people to
ftraggle into the woods, which were infeftcd with Malayans, who would
be upon the watch to make every kind of depredation upon us. Fn
confequcnce of this very kind and important information, orders were
immediately difpatched to the Iphigenia, who had anchored about a
mile from us, to withdraw her people from the fliore.
t
«
II
The carpenter returned about fix o'clock, and made a report that every
kind of timber we wanted, might be procured.
Monday t In the momlug an officer, with a ftrong party, was difpatched with
the carpenters to cut down fome fpars for top-fiiil yards, and fteerijig
fail-booms for the Felice ; and orders were ifl'ued to the Iphigenia to
f.nd a fimilar party to cut a fore-maft ; in the mean time, the pinnace
was employed in founding and furvcying the channel, which was found
to contain great over-falls, from five to ten, and thirty fathoms, at a
caft, with a very rocky ground.
About noon the carpenters returned on board, having procured a top-
fail yard and the booms. They had alfo felled a fore-maft for the
Iphigenia. The officer informed us of the lofs of a China-man, who
was fuppofed to have ftrayed into the woods, and to have been feized
by the Malayans. A numerous band of thefe favages, well armed
after their fafliion, hovered about the place where the carpenters
were
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 33
were nt work, and as wc could not procure any intelligence of this poor 1 788,
unfortunate man, there is but too much reafon to believe that he fell ''^•*''**'^
hito the hands of the natives.
At one o'clock a large boat arrived from the governor, who refidcd
at the village, to compliment us on our arrival, and to invite us to
an entertainment which his hofpitality had prepared. The officer
who was employed to bring this polite invitation, confirmed the ac-
count of the pricfls refpedling the perfidious character of the natives of
the ifland ; and recommended, in the ftrongeft terms, that we (hould
ufe every poflible precaution when we fent any parties on fhore. He
alfo informed us that we might procure any neceffary timber with more
eafe and fafety in the neighbourhood of the village, which poflcffed
another advantage that might be of great ufe to us,— the being walhed
by a rivulet of very fine water. He alfo added, on the part of the
governor, that he fliould be happy to give us every afliftance in his
power.
It was, therefore, immediately refolved that the (hips fhould moor
nearer to the village ; accordingly at two o'clock the tide making in our
flavour, both fliips weighed and anchored abreaft of a large (lone fort,
called Fort Caldera, whofe baftions were within an hundred yards of
the fea.
V f 'Ml
The fort was fainted with nine guns, which compliment was imme-
diately returned. The body of the village bore North by Eail half Eaft,
di(tant about a quarter of a mile ; the extremities of Magindanao from
Eaft North Eaft, to North North Weft ; and the Ifland of Bafilan
from South Eaft by Eaft, to South Weft by Weft, diftant about twelve
leagues.
E CHAP.
''V'n
■»
n'
1788.
FcikUARr
VOYAGES TO THE
C II A P. IV.
i\
Tuefday 9
Ow Reception at Siimbo'ingan. — Frit'tuHy Behaviour of the Governor^ tSc—
'the SpaniJ}} Gallies cover our Partiti while cutting a Majl. — Sicbiefs of
'tianna. — Goes on Board the Ipiiigeni A. — C<;///t', t£c. received on Bnard.-^
The Governor vifils the Ships ^ i£c. — The Telich prepares to put to Sea.-^
Lofes an uinc/jor and departs for America. — Some Account of Magindanao^
its Trade, Religion, Inhabitants, and Productions. — jijfrononiical Obferva-
tions. Anchorage, &c. — The Village of Samboingan. — Span iff} Force and
Power. — Riches obtained by the Governor of Samboingan. — Defcription of a
Ball given by him, and the Manners of the People. — Nautica/ Obfervations
on the Pajfage between the China Seas and the Northern Pacifc Ocean. —
Danger rf navigating the China Seas. — Account of the fcveral Pajfagcs be-
tween the two Oceans, with Directions, lie. — Pajfage bctivcen Formofa
and the Philippines. — Bajl:ee IJles ; — Defcription of them.
THE Governor of Samboliignn, who was a captain in a regiment of
infantry at Manilla, received us with the greatcfl: politcncfs, af-
fured us of every affiftance in his pnwcr, and fupplicd us, without licfi-
tation, with whatever refrcfhmcnts theifland afforded. — He was attended
by three priefts, two of whom were young men, but the third was rather
of an advanced age, and had refiJed oa that iiland during an uninterrupted
courfe of thirty years.
• We were condu£led into the fort, which appeared to be in a very
ruinous flate, and were regaled, after the Spani(h faihion, with fweetmeats
and
NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 35
and cordials: — a very handfome repaft tlicn fuccctdtd, to which the 1788.
major of the country militia, and other officers were invited. Some of
tliefe gentlemen were natives of Manilla, and others of MagiiKlanao, whole
complexions were (6 dark as to approach very nearly to the hlackiufs of
the African. The pricfts enjoyed, as well as enlivened, the hoCpitilitfcs
of the day, and did not appear to be of opinion that they were thrown
into that corner of the globe to pafi their time in penitence and
prayer.
The rivulet that flowed through tlic village, after wafhing the walls
oftliefort, emptied itfelf into the fea, at no great diftance from our '
mooring, which afforded us a very convenient opportunity of weltering:
we accordingly embraced the occafion to replace what we had expended
of fuch an import.iut article.
On the loth, the governor was To very oblij^ing as to permit the two WeJiufJuyi*
gallies, completely armed, to accompany the boats of both the (hips, that
were employed to convoy the carpenters on fliorc, to cut another fore-maft
for the Iphigcnia in the woods, the firft having been found defedlive, about
a league from the fort. About noon they got under fail, and proceeded
with the boats, which were alfo well manned and armed. We had been
aflured that large parties of Malays were always on the watch, cither to
commit depredations on the people, or to carry off" any unguarded ftraggler
into flavery, from whence they fcldom or ever cfcapcd. We were there-
fore determined to be in fuch a ftatc of preparation as to fccure the ohjea
of our little expedition from being materially interrupted by them. About
nine the parties returned with a very fine ftick, without having feen the
face of an enemy.— In the mean time the other operations were proceed-
u»g, and every preparation making for the continuance of our voyage.
1
A
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' '■'■(
.1.
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h
nJlJ
t\
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4i
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i'
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36
1788.
I' K II K. I \ I) V .
VOYAOES TO THE
At this place, however, it was refolved that we fliould feparate.
The Iphigcnia could not have been ready for fea at leaft for feme days ;
and cvc-n that period had become an obje^ of Ibme importance, from the
prefcnt advanced ftate of the year. The Felice was provided with every
tiling (he could want, and we therefore prepared to leave Samboingati
without any farther delay.
t
ii
M )
Tianna and Comekala, the man from King George's Sound, were,
fince the death of Winee, the only pcrfons of their refpcfVive countries
on board the Felice ; the red of them were on board the Iphigenia, to
which we now condgned the amiable chief of Atooi, as her courfe com-
prehended his native iflands.— Comekala remained with us, as the dcAi-
nation of our voyage was to his own country.
Tianna had been fo fenfibly afFeded by the death of Wince, as to pro-
duce a confiderable alteration in the ftate of his health : — his fever con-
tinued, and baffled all our attentions to relieve him. The fame fate that
had feparated for ever his unfortunate countrywoman from her friends
and native land, prcflld home upon his reflecflion. — He may be fuppofed
to have felt, and Ibmetimes, perhaps, expeftod that he might hear no
more the tender names of father or of huft)and ; — that he might fhare
with Wince a premature grave in the bofom of the ocean. — He was
therefore configned to the care of Captain Douglas, with the hopes that
the remaining on ftiore till his departure, with the novelty of the fcenes
around him, might abate his diforder, .nnd recruit his fpirits with a fuf-
ficient degree of ftrength to bear out the remainder of the voyage.
On the evening of this day, we received on board four fine buffaloes,
with grafs and plantain trees for them and our other cattle : — to thefe
were alfo added a quantity of rice, vegetables, and fruit, with feveral
* very
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
very fine hogs ; and it was our dcfign to put to fca without delay : but
the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft, and the weather appearing
very gloomy and unfcttkd, our departure was deferred to the fol-
lowing day.
As we had now an opportunity to make the governor fome acknow-
ledgment for his very friendly attentions, an officer was difpatclicd with
a meflage of thanks for his kindncfs to us, accomp.inied with an invita-
tion to partake of a rcpaft the next day on board the fhips, which he very
readily accepted. In return for which compliment, he requcfted our
prcfence at a ball that evening ; fome account of which will be given
when I come to mention the ftate, &c. of tlic ifland, and its inhabitants.
37
1788.
Ftt«UAKT.
At the time appointed, the governor made us the promifed vifit, at- Tlmrfdayu
tended by the three padres, and the major of militia ; and wc exerted
ourfelves to theutmoft in our entertainment, to manifefl a proper fenfibi-
litytothe friendftiip he had (hewn us. The prieds enjoyed themfclvcson
board the (hip as they had done on (hore ; and joined in one common
fentimcnt, that nothing tends fo much as wine and good cheer to anni-
hilate the force of religious diftindions. — The governor and his fuiie left
us with the mod cordial expre(nons of fatisfaiflioa at our reception
of them.
l\
At four o'clock, the tide making in our favour, with a fre(h breeze
from the northward, wc hove (hort ; but had the misfortune to find
that our anchor had hooked a rock ; nor could our utmoft endeavours
difentangle it from its hold, and heaving rather a ftrain, the cable gave
way, and we irreparably loft it. The (hip was immediately got under
fail, aiid pa(ring clofe to the Iphigenia, (he gave us three cheers, whicli we
\ immediately
ll'"
h'h
|S VOYAGESTOTHE
1788. immediately returned. She had her old fore- maft out, and her carpen-
kekrbarv. fgrg „.pre bufily employed in preparing the new one on (hore.
The very flioit time \vc remained at Samboingan did not give us a
fufficient opportunity to acquire any other knowledge of this fettlemcnt
tlian fuch as we received from the general information of others. But as
this place is fo much out of tlic way of (hipping and commerce, I fhall'
not hefitate to repeat the account I received from the communications
of the old padre, whofc authority may, after all, be confidered as of fume
reliance, from his very long and continual reudcncc on this idand.
Magindanao i,> an ifland of confiderable extent, being about 120 miles in
breadth, and 160 in length, and is bkflld with a fertile, luxuriant foil. —
The intciior parts contain fevcral chains of lofty mountains, between
which are extenfive plains, where vafl: herds of cattle roam at large in
the moll delicious paftures. Several deep vallics alfo interfeft, as it were,
certain parts of the country, through which, during the rainy feafons,
vaft torrents pour from the mountains, and force their impetuous way to
the fea. The rains and vapours which lodge in the plains diffufe thcm-
felves into meandering rivulets, and coUefling a variety of fmall ftreams
in their courfe, approach the fca in the form of confiderable rivers.
About the middle of the ifland there are feveral lakes of no fmall
extent, of which, however, we received no otlier particulars than that
their borders are inhabited by tribes of favage natives, who live in a
great meafure by plundering thofe who dwell nearer to the fea. Thefe
people confider themfelves as free and independent of the fovereign of
Magindanao, are of a fierce, implacable nature, and wage continual war
with the Mahometans, who compofe the principal inhabitants of the
ifland.
NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 3^
ifland. They are called Hilloonas, and profefs no kind of religion, but 1788.
live in a ftate of profound ignorance and barbarifm.
The fovereign of Magindanao is a powerful prince, and has feveral in-
ferior chiefs who acknowledge him as their head. Neverthelefs there
are others of them who refufe fubmilfion to him, and are confequently
in a continual ftate of war ; lb that peace, at leaft, does not appear to be
one of the bleflings of this ifland. The Spaniards, indeed, aflert their
right to the entire dominion of Magindanao, but it is mere aflertion ; for
though they have thefe forts, &c. on the ifland, it is by no means in a
ftate of fubjeftion to their nation.
The city of Magindanao is fituated on the South Eaft fide of the ifland,
has a river capable of admitting fmall veffeU, and carries on a confiderable
trade with Manilla, Sooloo, Borneo, and the Moluccas. Their export-s
are rice, tobacco, bees-wax and fpices ; in return for which they receive
coarfe cloths of Coromandel, China-ware and opium.
This city ufed formerly to be vifited by European veflTels of fmall
burthen ; but it was a confiderable time fince any of them had been there.
The governor informed us, that the Iphigenia and the Felice were
the only European fliips tliat had been feen in thefe feas during a
courfe of feveral years.
The Mahometan religion is profefled throughout the ifland, except
by the Hilloonas, who, as we have already obferved, are governed by no
religious principles,— praftife no form of worfliip,— and live in a ftate of
lavage freedom.
. ' Thefe
1
i ■;
40
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
1 788. Thefe people are called by the Spaniards, Negres Jel Monte, or Negroes
FrsRUARY. Q£f]jg Mountain, on account of their rcfemblance to the race of Africa,
both in their perfons and manners. They arc fuppofcd to be the original
lords of Magindanao, and, indeed, of all the Philippines ; the Iflade Ne-
gros, or Iflc of Negroes, is, in particular, entirely peopled by them, where
they are at conftant enmity with the Spaniards. The Mahometan na-
tives of the ifland are a robuft people, of a deep copper colour, and are
efteemed intelligent merchants.
If the Hilloonas are believed to have been the original inhabitants of
Magindanao, it is very reafonable to fuppofe that they fled to the moun-
tains to prcferve their liberty, when they were invaded by the Maho-
metan hofts, which fpread like locufts, during the thirteenth and foui'-
teenth centuries, over the eaftern archipelago. Their favage ignorance
and barbarous difpofitions feem to have become fo habitual, as to leave
them without the leafl defire, or, perhaps, without even the leaft idea of
any fuperior degree of intellecflual nature. The miflionaries whom
the zeal for infidel converfion, fo well known in the Roman Catholic
Church, employed to preach Chriftianity to thefe inhuman people, were
inftantly feized and murdered by them.
t
The ifland is well wooded ; many parts of it towards the fea-coaft,
are covered with impenetrable forefts : in others, the woods are fcattercd
with a pleafing irregularity, contributing not only to the beauty of the
country, but to its comfort and convenience, by fliading the hills and
vallies from the fcorching heat of the fun. The fpecies of trees that are
moft abundant, are the teake, the poone, and the larch ; but its moft
valuable and precious growth, is the cinnamon tree, which is to be found
in every part of the ifland, and is of a quality by no means inferior to
that
.
L- I
\\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
that of Ceylon. We received famples fre(h from the tree, that poffeffed
a delicacy of tafte and fragrance equal to any that is brought from
thence. Our good friend the padre was fo kind as to procure us forty
young plants of the true cinnamon tree, which were intended for the
Sandwich Iflands.
41
1788.
I'EBauAKr.
The air of Magindanao is efteemed falubrious, particularly in the vici-
nity of the fea. The heat there is not, in any degree, fo intenfe as might
be expelled, in a country which is fituated on the very verge of the tor-
rid zone. I do not recoUeft to have feen the thermometer at more than
eighty-eight degrees, and it was very often fo low as feventy-two. The
prevalence of the Eafterly winds on that part of the coaft which is
wafhed by the Paciiic Ocean, renders the air cool and pleafant, the
trade- wind blowing inceflkntly on its fliores . It afts, indeed, with fo much
power as to fweep the whole breadth of the ifland ; and though in its
pafTage it lofes much of its ftrength, it retains a fufficient degree of
force to afford refrcfliing breezes to the inhabitants of the Wefteni
fliore. The interior parts are much colder, from a very cloudy at-
mofphere, which frequently hangs over the fummits of the mountains in
thick and humid vapours.
1
I*
The foil, which is very exuberant, is fuited to the cultivation of the
whole vegetable tribes. Rice is produced in the greateft abundance ; a
pecul, or 1331b. may be purchafed for a Spani(h dollar.
The yam and fweet potatoe arc cultivated in the liigheft pcrfeftion.
Here are alfo to be found the cocoa nut, pumble-nofe, mangoes, the jack,
the plantain, oranges, limes, and, in (hort, every fruit that is produced
in climates of the fame parallel.— Indeed nature has been extremely
bountiful to the inhabitants, in producing for them the great variety of
F tropical
42
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. tropical productions, without any demand upon their toil and la*
^"»''*"- hour.
Here are alfo gold mines, which are fuppofed to be of confiderablc
value ; — and it may be naturally imagined that a knowledge or fufpi-
cion of this circumflance firfl: induced the Spaniards to fettle on this
ifland :•— but as the natives are ignorant of the art of forming mines,
they remain unexplored by them ; and, as we were informed, little, if
* any gold has been obtained, but what has been wafhed down by the
autumnal torrents from the mountains which the Hilloonas inhabit,,
and who are in poflefTion of thofe parts which are believed to contain the
precious ore, — But thefe mountaineers are too numerous and refolute to
refign a fituation they have maintained fo long, without a fevere and
bloody flruggle, and the Spanifh power is, at prefent, far too feeble to-
make any attempt to diflodge them.
, Iv
Every part of the ifland abounds with buffaloes, cows, hogs, goats, &c^
—It affords alfo great variety of fowls, and 3 fpecies of duck, whofe
head is of a fine fcarlet colour. Here are alfo a fmall breed of horfes>
remarkable for their fpirit. Tlie natives, however, principally employ
buffaloes in the various branches of hufbandry and agriculture.
If'
The people of Maguidanao univerf.illy chew the betel and areka, but
make a more moderate ufe of opium than any other inhabitants of the
Eaflern fcas.
'I
The proas of the Malayans are numerous and powerful ; they carry
from fifty to two hundred men ; and the coiifequence of their defultory
expeditions is bloodfhed, carnage, and captivity to the people of the
defencelefs towns and villages whom they furprize, or the unfortunate
crews of veflels which they mny chance to capture.
The
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The village or town of Samboingan is fituated on the banks of a fmall
rivulet, which empties itfelf imnaediately into the fea ; and is agreeably
ihaded by groves of cocoa-trees. The number of its inhabitants arc
about one thoufand, among which are included the officers, foldiers, and
their refpeflive families. In its environs there are fevci.il fmall look-
out houfes, erefted on ports of twelve feet high, in all of which a con-
ftant guard is kept ; fo that it appears as if the Spaniards were in a cori-
tinual ftate of enmity with the natives.
The houfes are built of thofe fimple materials which are of very ge-
neral ufe in the Eaftern feas. They are erefted on ports, and built of
bamboo, covered with mats : — the lower apartments fcrve for their hogs,
cattle and poultry, and the upper ones are occupied by the family. Nor
did it a little excite our aftonifliment, that the Spaniards, inrtead of
creating an emulation and improvement among the natives, from their
own fuperior knowledge of the arts and conveniencies of life, rtiould
infenfibly fink into the manners and curtoms of the very people whofe
ignorance they affect to defpi(e. But, though their houfes have but
little to boaft, their piety has produced a decent church, which is built
offtone. The fort is a very poor place of defence; and is, as far as
we could judge, in an abfolutc rtate of decay; for the governor's
cautious fpirit took care to keep us from any particular examination of
it. — Towards the land, its whole defence confifted of a fimple
barrier, with two or three pieces of cannon.— To a very moderate
force indeed, this place would become an ealy capture. Indeed, the
Felice and Iphigenia might, without any affirtance, have rendered
the Spanirti power very precarious in this fettlement. — The mili-
tary force confirted of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
foldiers, natives of Manilla, in which place alfo, the governor himfelf
F 2 ' was
43
1788.
Feorvary.
'♦,
I
'^St^mftm
44
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. was born. They appeared to be in a rtate of difcipline by no means
FiBKUARv. ynworthy of tlie fortrefs which thty gairifoned.
Samboingan is the Botany Bay of the Philippines, and crimes of a cer-
• tain nature are punifhed there by banifliment to this place. — We did not
fee any of the delinquents, but we had reafon to fufpe£l that there were
feveral in fome kind of clofe confinement.
Inconfiderable, however, as this fcttlement may appear, the governor
is fuppoied to clear thirty thoufand dollars in the three years of his
refidence there. This advantage he derives from furnidiing the foldiers
with cloathing and provifion, — from gold-duft, cinnamon, fpices, and
other contraband goods.
r t
I
/ i
The condutft of the inhabitants was governed by the moft pleafing de-
corum, for which they are folely indebted to the civilizing fpirit of the
old padre ; as his two fellow-labourers in the fpiritual vineyard, were
rather calculated to deprave, than improve the poor people committed to
their charge. — Indeed the former was of that amiable, conciliating difpo-
fition, which is fo well adapted to the cultivation of favage manners.- —
We were equally furprized at hearing a very tolerable band of mufic,
which was compofed of natives of the country. — It confifled of four vio-
lins, two baflbons, with feveral flutes and mandolins. This unexpeded
orcheftra were acquainted with fome of the lelefl: pieces of Handel; they
knew many of our Englifh country dances, and feveral of our popular
and favourite tunes; but in performing the Fandango, they had at-
tained a degree of excellence that the nicefl ears of Spain would have
heard with pleafure. The Malayans pofTefs, in common with other
favage nations, a fenfibility to the charms of muHc, and are even
* capable
\-\ i^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
45
capable of attaining no inconfiderable degree of perfedlion iu that de- 1788.
lightful Icience.
The good old prieft had alfo taught the greater part of the town to
dance ; fo that the inhabitants of this diftant and unfrequented fpot, pof-
feffed two amufements which are the beft calculated to enliven the dull,
or footh the melancholy hours of life. On the evening previous to our
departure, the governor, as we have already mentioned, gave us another
proof of his polite and hofpitable difpofition, by preparing a ball ex-
prefsly for our amufement.
About eight o'clock in the evening, the company met at the gover-
nor's houfe. The ladies, who were efcorted by a number of young men
of Samboingan, were drcfled after the manner of the ifland, which borders
on, as we may fuppofe it to be borrowed, from the faihions of Manilla.
It confided of a veil which fell gracefully to the ancles, and was fo ar-
ranged as to heighten real charms, and to make one fancy beauty even
where nature had denied it. The arms alone were bare ; but the folds
werefo contrived as half to difcover the bofom, while the entire figure,
in all the fimplicity of nature, could not be defcribed as being concealed
from the exploring eye.— Their ancles and wrifts were adorned with brace-
lets of gold, which gave, as may be fuppofed, fomewhat of arichnefs to
an appearance that was already elegant. Many of them were extremely
handfome ; nor did certain arch looks, whicli appeared to be habitual,
though they were heightened by the dance, render them lefs agreeable.
The Fandango was performed in its utmoft perfeftion; — the minuet was
not difgraced by their motions, — and Englifli country dances, feveral
of which were performed in compliment to us, have been often exhibited
with far lefs grace and agility in many of our beft affemblies, than in
this diftant and remote corner of the Philippine Iflands.-- This amufe-
ment
'
^ii^
M
46
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. ment lafted till twelve o clock, when all the company retired, with
every appearance of the molt perfedt Ihtisra^ion.
■.\
For fuch means of innocent amufement, the people are indebted to
the venerable padre, who himfelf joined in the dance. Indeed it would
have bern not only to the honour of Spain, but of the religion it profefles,
if fuc' .en had been employed, who, like this amiable prleft, could
makw ilieir miflions a fourcc of comfort and happinefa, inftcnd of accom-
panying them with that feverity of difclpline, and cruelty of compulfion,
which renders converdon inHncere or mifunderflood, and is in fuch
direfl: oppofition to the mild and benevolent fpirit of Chriftianity.
The governor, however, with all his civility, would not permit us
to land any inflrumente, in order to make agronomical obfervations ;
we were therefore obliged, under confiderable difadvantages, to take
them on board the fhips.
The latitude of the anchoring ground was, by the medium of feveral
good meridian obfervations, 6° 58' North, and the longitude, by twenty
obferved diftances of the fun and moon, taken by good fextants, 122°,
28' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the flag-flaff on the fort bore
North half Eaft, diftant half a mile.
m
The anchorage before the fort is foul and rocky : a-breaft of the town
it is much better ; a fandy bottom and well flieltcred, except from the
South Weft quarter, and even then the wind has not fufficient range to
produce a fea, or to be attended with any circumftance of danger.
It will not, I truft, be confidered as foreign to the defign of this woi k,
if I interrupt the progrcfs of my voyage, for a few pages, to offer lucli
obfervations
* t
(■;•
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
47
obfervations and notices as I had occafion to make on the paflage between , ^88.
the Northern Pacific Ocean and the China feas ; Ibme knowledge of F"»uA»r
which courfe, whether it be purfued to the Northward or Southward
of the Philippines, muft be of confiderable ufc to Oriental commerce,
and be particularly efl*ential to (hips that take the Eaftern paflTage to
China, which is occafionally preferred, particularly during a war, by
thofe who are bound to the port of Canton, in the North Eaft
Monfoon.
Nautical obfervations are, at all times, of the greateft importance,
and we offer fuch as we have made, to the judicious refle(f\ion of thofe
who may be particularly interefted in them. It mutt, indeed, be con-
fidered, that although in the track of the Felice and the Iphigenia acrofs
the China feas, along the Philippines into the Pacific, no d^lngers were
vifibletous; yet others, purfuing this route, may be lefs fortunate, as
this very track is generally defcribed as abounding with many. We
indeed found a clear navigation, nor have we any reafon to doubt, but
that, with a proper degree of precaution, fhips might find a fafe and
eafy entrance into the China feas by Magindanao and the channel of
BafUan.
\ (H
i i
The Eaftern feas are certainly fct thick with perils, which, of courfe,^
render their navigation exceedingly precarious ; nor are the difficulties
of it leflened by the circumftance that thofe perils are, in a great degree,
unknown. Ships, indeed, which purfue the common track acrofs the
China feas, with the South Weft Monfoon, have not much to fear, if
they do but make the different Iflands to procure frefh departures.—
Lunar obfervations cannot at all times be taken, a circumftance which
ihould animate vigilance and quicken precaution; of which, too much
cannot be exercifed in this arduous navigation.
It
■t
^ VOYAGES TO THE
1788. It woiil J, by no means, be prudent for (hips to work up the Cliina
K£D»uA»Y. fgas againft the North Eaft Monfoon ; and it would, of courfc, be equally
hazardous to work down them during the blowing of the SoutliWeft. The
currents are in fuch number, and withal fo various, that a (hip is im-
perceptibly hurried into the midft of danger. In which the utmoft
fkill and adivity will be feldom able, even in copper-bottomed veflcls,
to efcapc deftruftion.
It is true, that there have been examples of (hips who have accom-
pliflicd their voyage againft the reigning winds : but they fliould rather
be reprcfented as extraordinary inftances of good fortune, from having
efcapcd a variety of dangers, any one of which might have proved fatal,
than be cited to encourage others to purfue a Hmilar navigation : for
befides the ri(ks of a voyage, even if it (hould be performed under thcfe
circumftanccs, the chances are very much againft the poflibility of
doing it, when the monfoons blow ftrong either one way or the other.
As (hips, even in the periodical winds, are expofed to dangers, it is
efllntially neceffary that they fliould, at all times, be provided with a
couple of chronometers ; by the aid of which inftruments the pofitions
of fliips may be afcertained ; for as they are liable to flop, fliould fuch
an accident happen to one of them, the portion of time elapfed, may be
determined by the other, particularly if they are obferved every four
hours, a circumftance which fliould be an objedl of the moft careful at-
tention. Their regularity alio fliould be examined and proved at every
place where the fliip ftops a fufficient time to make the neceffary trial-
i) ■
There are many recent inftances of very fatal accidents which have
happened to veffels, during the regular monfoons, from the want of
thefe very ufeful inftruments.
The
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The (hip Hornby, bound from Canton to Bombay, in the month
of December, 1788, in a gale of wind, fell in with theiflandPula
Sapata, in the China fcas, and was within a moment of being daflicd to
pieces. She was fo clofe to the land, that nothing could have faved her
but the violent rebound of the furge from the fide of a rock ; when, by
being extremely alert in fetting fail, (he moft fortunately got round it.
A Dutch (hip in the fame year, was loft on the Prata (hoal ; her
crew was faved in the long-boat, and got fafe to Canton.
In the year 1789, and fome time In the month of June, the (hip
Lizard, bound from Bombay to Canton, was wrecked on the Lincoln
(hoal. The captain and feven men were all which were faved of her
crew. After undergoing the greateft hard(hips and diftrefs in a fmall
boat, they arrived at Canton.
The Argyle(hire, a large country (hip, bound from Bengal to China,
was fuppofed to have been loft fomewhere in the China feas.
The number of Spani(h and Portuguefe (hips which have been loft in
thefe feat alfo are by no means inconfiderable ; fo that too much vigilance
and precaution cannot be employed in fuch an hazardous navigation.
49
1788.
H
s,
' 1 ;i
The (hip Cornwallls, of eight hundred tons burthen, commanded by
Captain William Counfill, failed down the China feas on her voyage to
Bengal, in the month of May 1 789, when it was to be fuppofed that
the South Weft Monfoon was fet in, and encountered fuch a variety of
(hoals, rocks and iflands, that her efcape was con(idered as miraculous.
And had (he not been uncommonly well appointed, and navigated with '
G fuperior
I
50
VOYAGES TO THE
1 788. faperior (kill and ability, in all probability (he would never have reached
r...„*«T. B^pgj,,^
As the following Extra£t of a Letter from on bonrd this (hip may
be of conliderable ufe to future navigators of thefe parts, no apology
can be confidered as necciTary for the infertion of it :
fl
(■■ :
;^-
f^
" Malacca, 'July 4, 1789.
"WE arrived here on the 27th of June, after a pafTage of
'* forty-five days, from China, which we confider as extremely tedious
** for (b prime a failer as the Cornwaliis. In our pafTage down we
" had an a(loni(hing (et to the Eaftward : we could not make either
** the Macclesfield or Pula Sapata> The firft land that appeared to
** view was on the 28th of May, bearing South Weft half South, diftant
** four leagues, with a reef of dangerous rocks and breakers, which we
** fuppofed to be the Andrades, being nearly in the latitude of them.—
•* At half paft two, P. M. a (hoal was fecn from the deck, bearing
** South Weft half Weft, diftant two miles; and at four, ftanding to
" the South Eaft, we were obliged to tack for another (hoal, bearing
«• South Eaft by Eaft, diftant two miles. On the South Eaft end of
•• this (hoal, is a low Tandy idand, on which we faw the appearance of
*• a wreck : the weather was very fqually ; during the night we deemed
" it prudent to ftand under an eafy fail to the Northward, fearing this
•• chain of (hoals might extend more to the South : the next morning
*• at day-break, we wore and ftood to the (hoals, and at ten, A. M.
" made them. We were then obliged to haul to the Eaftward and
" Eaft North Eaft, till three P. M. and thus, by degrees, to clfear
" tho
\y )
'•»
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
«« the different (hoals which prefcntetl t!icmfelve» to our view ; eleven
" of them forming i deep circle ur curve, and are backed to the Weft-
•• ward by very extcnfivP branches. They ippear to extend from each
«• extreme, Eaft North Eaft, fo Weft South Wefl, and about twcnty-
** five miles in extent : and what adds to the danger in making them is,
♦• that they are even with the furface of the water, which if fmooth and
«• unruffled, they cannot be fecn, there not being a rock about them but
«• the firfl.
5'
1788.
FliaUAKY.
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** After clearing this reef, we fteered to the Southward ; and the next
day found ourfelves in a clear fca.
" On the 30th at noon, breakers were feen bearing North Wcfl
by North, diftant eight or nine miles. This reef appeared to trend
the {lime as the laft, and has dangerous rocks along the edge : its
extent is about three leagues : when the reef was fecn, we were in
the latitude of 8° 47' North, by a good obfervation ; and by feveral
fights of the fun and moon, the longitude was 114' 14', 45" Eaft,
which made us fevcnty-two miles to the Eaft of our accounts. After
clearing thefe fhoals, we ftood to the South Weft ; when, on the
morning of the 4th of June, at five A. M. a low fandy ifland was
difcovered with a rock pn it : this we faw very plain from the quar-
ter-deck ; and before we could alter the ftiip's courfc, we were within
three quarters of a mile of a moft dangerous reef of rocks, which
juft prefented themfelves above the water. We had a fine breeze
during the night, and were going five or fix knots an hour, but
fortunately it died away about four in the morning ; fo that half an
hour more of dark, or the continuance of this breeze, would have
been our inevitable deftru£lion. This reef trends North North Weft,
and South South Eaft, and is five miles long. Its latitude is 7° 52'
G * «• North,
^1
• if'.. *
til
! M
i ■
i
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k
li I '■
H^
^s
1/
5«
VOYAGE S TO THE
1788. ** North, and its longitude nearly 112** 32' Eaft. From our providential
FcBKVAtr. (( cfcape, we called the ifland Providence Ifland, and the reef, Sebaftian*s
♦« Reef.
** The many dangers we have been expofed to, has made it exceed-
" ingly fatiguing : — At laft we made the Natumas and Anambas, which
" are both egregioufly miflaken, both in latitude and longitude."
It appears therefore to be advifable for (hips bound to China from
Europe, if they do not reach the Straits of Sunda in the month of Sep-
tember, to determine on the Eaftern paflage, in order to avoid the diffi-
culties we have juft defcribed ; for, though the Eaft-India fliips Wal-
pole. Belvedere and Walfingham, arrived in China in the month of
November, 1787, it is a rifle that can never be juftified but by the moft
urgent neceffity.
The Walfingham came up along the coaft of Borneo, and was even fa-
voured with a gale of wind at South Weft, on the coaft of the Philip-
pines, but neverthelefs efcaped fuch dangers as no prudent man would
wifli to re-encounter. — The Walpole reached the coaft of Luconia, and
made a good paflage, though Captain Churchill found it equally danger-
ous ; while the Belvedere, Captain Greer, puflied at once through the
China feas, though the monfoon was luppofed to have fet ftrongly in.
Thefe are inftances of good fortune, which are rather to be confidered
as happy efcapes from danger, than examples to imitate :— for it would
furely be much more prudent to determine on an Eaftern paflage, parti-
cularly if Java-head is not reached by the tenth of OAober.
The
'^Jl^- -*-* .9
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The ftralts of Balli or Alias may, in this caf-, be fafely paiTcd, as Mr.
Dalrymple's charts are very accurate ; from thence the courfe is conti-
nued to the Macaffar Straits, employing every ncceflhry precaution on
account of the iflands and (hoals that lie between thofe flraits.
S3
1778.
Februakv.
The ftraits of Macaffar are not without dangers, though they are but
but few, and well afcertained ; the Experiment and Captain Cook
paffed through them, and made very good obfervatlons on their paflTage*.
The Experiment, indeed, got on (hore, and received feme little damage.
In the North Weft Monfoon there is generally a current fetting through
to the Southward; the waters from the Pacific Ocean and Sooloo Archi-
pelago being confined here, form, in general, this Southerly drift. In the
paffage of the ftraits the winds are variable ; but when it is cleared, they
will be found to the Eaft and Eaft South Eaft ; and there is then little
or no reafon to doubt the being able to reach up under the (hore of Ma-
gindanao, which is preferable to the ifland of Sooloo : here, at times,
the winds are Wefterly, particularly in November and December ; the
making Sooloo, therefore, would be attended with difadvantages, as the
currents and winds might render it difficult to get up to Maguidanao, in-
dependent of a number of dangerous (hoals and coral reefs, that are
fcattered between Sooloo and Bafilan : whereas, between the head of the
Macaflar Straits and the South Eaftern extremity of Magindanao, there
is no very imminent danger. — We failed through this channel, between
Jelolo and the ifland of Morotay, and re-entered tlie Pacific ocean to
the Southward of this ifland..
m^
i
it
• Thefe (hips were bound on a trading voyage, from Bombay to the North Weft coafl
of America, in 1786.
The
V
i
54
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
Thecurrents here fet South Weft, and with the wmd to the Eaft-
ward ; it is nevcrthelefs very praaicable to reach the ifland of Bafilan,
and, of courfe, Samboingan, where every neceflary refrefliment is to be
prccured. We then fleered our courfe to Sanguir, and thofe fmall
iflauds which lie between it and the Southern extremity of Magindanao.
Thtfeiflands are tolerably high, and well wooded, and furrounded with
no danger but what is apparent, and therefore may be avoided. San-
guir is well inhabited, and affords refrefliments of various kinds. It is
alfo faid to abound in fpices, with which it carries on a trade with Ma-
gindanao. We found Eafterly winds to prevail here with very little
deviation.
ill
' \?
Between the iflands of Ba(ilan and Sanguir, there are feveral fmall
iflets, which are not laid down in the charts ; but we did not perceive
any circumftance of danger about them.
Ui*
The paflage by Samboingan is certainly much more eligible than that
to the Eaftward of Magindanao. Indeed to get to the Eaftward is a
matter of great difficulty.— It coft us a great deal of time, trouble and
vexation, to reach only the 147th degree of longitude : befides the track
is ftrewed, as it were, with perils ; fmall, low fandy iflands, and numbers
of reefs of coral rocks are every where vlfible, which, during a dark
night, would prove almoft a certain deftruiftion ; and, to encreafe the
hazard, no foundings are to be procured, to give any warning of the
approaching danger. But, even if we fuppofe tliefe rocks and (hoals to
be cleared, it would not be prudent to tack before New Guinea is weather-
ed ; and, laftly, the courfe to the Northward is to be confidered as lying
through thofe dangerous iflands, the Carolines, whofe pofition has been
confidered as very uncertain, till it was afcertained by the Iphigenia, as
well as the contiguous (hoals ; and, in particular, the Shoal Abregoes,
• whofe
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
55
whofe exiftence was univerfally doubted, but is now found to be placed 1^88.
in the track of Ihips entering the China feas from the Pacific ocean, f"»"*»>
between Formofa and Luconia.
If the paffage to the Weftward of Magindanao be preferred, there is
no danger to be apprehended, at leaft, that we faw, from entering the
channel of Bafilan : in the latter, confiderable overfalls will be found,
but nothing elfe, up to the place of anchorage off Fort Caldera. This
paflage is alfo by much the (horteft ; and, in our opinion, to be,
in every refpeft, equal to that of the Pacific Ocean, exclufive of the very
important confideration of refrefliing the crews of fliips.
On leaving Samboingan, the navigator fhould hug the fliore of Magin-
danao clofe on board, as much as poflible, as the wind will be generally
found to blow off the fliore, which is fteep clofe to, and no danger to
be apprehended from it. The diredions of anchorage are already ex-
preffed in the account which has been given of the fettlement of
Samboingan.
From Magindanao, it will be proper to fteer a d'lrtSt courfe for the
South part of the Ifland of Panay ; — if the wind is not very favourable,
it will be neceffary to border the coaft of the Ifland del Negros ; nor is
there any danger to be apprehended from fleering clofe to Panay, as it
has a very bold coaft, till the Weft point of the Ifland of Mindoro is
reached : from thence the courfe lies to the coaft of Luconia, where
confiderable advantage will be received from the currents which run to
the Northward, during the period of the North Eaft Monfoon, off Cape
Bolinou, from twenty to twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours, and
oftentimes as high as Cape Buxadore.
The
^5 VOYAGESTOTHE
1788. The greateft precaution (hould be obfervcd about the period when the
Februarv. monfoons change,— a time to be dreaded above all others in the China
feas ; — if, therefore, (hips fliould have reached Samboingan any time in
the month of 0£tober, it would be extremely proper for them to remain
tlicre till the North Eaft Monfoon is fet ftrongly in. After Odober,
the paflage to and from Manilla to China Is always certain. Even the
worft of the Spanilh (hips, and they are the moft miferably equipped of
any vcffels in the world, work up the coaft of Luconia to the height of
the ifland, aflifted by the Northerly current ; they then ftretch over to
the coaft of China, and are certain of efFe£ling their palTage.
On the whole it is evident, that this route is the fafeft, as well as the
moft expeditiours ; and, at all events, fuperior to that of the Weft coaft
of Borneo,
If the Pacific Ocean ftiould be preferred to effeft the paflage by
ftretching to the Eaftward, and then tacking to weather Luconia, it
would be right to ftand to the Eaft till the coaft of New Guinea is
weathered, and the 150th degree of longitude is reached ; when it is
probable, that the dangerous groupe of iflands, called the Carolines, will
be weathered; amongft which are included the Pelew, and other low
iflands, which are furrounded by reefs of rocks to a great di<>a;ic?, and are
without any foundings to give notice of danger in dark and ftormy nights*
Between Magindanao and New Guinea, there are fo many clufters of
thefe low iflands, as to require, and almoft to baffle the utmoft vigilance
and precaution.
When to the Northward of thefe dangers, the Baftiee Iflands may be
made, feen by Dampier, or the Ifland of Botol Tobago Xima, feen by
Lord
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
57
Lord Anfon ; but it would be the beft way to make tlie latter, cxercifing 1788.
every poffible degree of attention to avoid the Abregoes fhoal, which is '■*"*«'**^'
extremely dangerous. When Botol Tobago Xima is vifible, one may
fteer without the leaft apprehenfion, even in the darkeft night, South
Weft 14 leagues, when the rocks of Ville Retc will be rounded at a
moderate diftance, and the China feas may be entered by hauling up to
the Northward and Weftward. There is a fmall rocky iflet, bearing
nearly Eaft of Botol Tobago Xima, fome miles diftant ; — and great atten-
tion fliould be paid that the former may not be miftaken for the latter.
The rocks of Ville Rete are extremely dangerous ; they form in a clufter,
and are furrounded by breakers ; the largeft of them is about the height
of a fmall (hip's hull out of the water : they bear off the South end of For-
mofa. South Wefterly, five leagues. We thought that, from the maft-
head, we could diftinguilh a channel between them and Formofa.
The laft time we made Botol Tobago Xima it was almoft dark, — the
weather ftormy and hazy ; and, very (hortly after, it blew a tremendous
gale of wind at Eaft. We fteered South Weft 15 leagues, and hauled
up Weft and Weft North Weft, and entered the China feas at midnight,
without feeing any thing of Formofa. The longitude of thefe places is
laid down by us from good obfervations of the fun and moon. In this run,
the general account muft be laid in having a ftrong current fetting to the
Weftward, from the moment a fliip puts her head to the Northward.
The land generally made on the coaft of China is about the Pedro
Blanco, or White Rock : from thence, within the Lcma Iflands, is a
fafe palTage to Canton, and no danger of any kind to be apprehended.
By this courfe the Prata (hotil, whofe dangers are fo well known, is
avoided.
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58
1788.
V O YAG E S T O T HE
If a (hip enters the China feas by making the Bafliee Iflands, her
paflage to Canton may be endangered, from the ftrong Southerly cur-
rents at that feafon. This paiTage, tiierefore, is not fo fecure as the
former, particularly as the Spaniards have feized thefe iflands, and
eftabliflied a force on them, though at prefent of no great ftrength or
power. .' ' ^ ■
• w
The Baihee Iflands, however, are bold and fafe ;— we were here in
1 786, and procured refrefliments. It may not be generally known that the
Spaniards have taken poflefiiou of them. But fo it is ; and a governor re-
iides on Grafton Ifle, with about an hundred foldiers, feveral officers, a
few priefts, and five or fix pieces of cannon, which are mounted before his
houfe ; but without fortification or defences of any kind.
•^'■
Our flay at thefe iflands was fo fhort, as not to afford us an opportu-
nity of attaining any thing but a very general information concerning
them ; but, as very few fhips have ever been known to vifit the Bafhee
iflands, it may not only fatisfy curiofity, but be of ufe to the Oriental
navigation, to offer fuch intelligence as we pofTefs from our own obfer-
vation, or the information of others.
n-
Thefe iflands, which are fituated between Formofa and Luconia, are
five in number, — befides four fmall rocky iflets, which, however, are
covered with verdure. Dampier gave the following names to the five
larger of them : Grafton Ifland, which is the mofl confiderable,— Mon-
mouth Ifland, which is the next in fize, — Goat Ifland, Orange Ifland,
and Bafhee Ifland, which are much fmaller than the two former. They
are inhabited by a race of flrong, athletic men, who have been hitherto
happy in a foil that produced every thing necefliiry for their fupport and
I comfort :
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NORTH WEST COA8T OP AMERICA. $9
comfort:— But we cannot fuppofe that the bappmefs thefe people pof- 1788.
fefled will find any addition from the yoke of Spain. ,
Orange Ifland lies North and South, and is almoft inaccefliblc on
every fide : it is entirely flat at the top : at the diflance of four leagues,
on approaching it from the China Teas, the peak on Grafton Ifle is very
difcernable over this high flat. We (hould fuppofe, that the iflauil is
fifty feet above the level of the Tea.
On the North of this ifland, arc four rocky ifles, called Anfon's Rocks ;
two of them are within three miles of the North end of the ifland. — We
entered this paflage and difcovered no danger : a large fliip might even
brufli her fides againfl Orange Ifland. The other two fland four or five
miles from the former, and from that paflage which Lord Anfon made
hi the Centurion.
Grafton Ifland is fituated to the £a(l of Orange Ifland ; ftands nearly
North and South, is of confiderable extent, being about thirteen leagues
in circumference, and has a good anchorage on the Weflern fide. About
two miles to the Soutliward of the town where the governor refides, is a
fmall fandy bay, where we anchored in nine fathoms, about half a mile
from the fliore ; the foundings gradually decreafing from forty fathoms
to nine fiithoms ; but the bank does not run off more than two miles.
The latitude of the fliips pofition was 20'' 36' North, and longitude, by
obfervation of fun and moon, 1 27;' £aft of Greenwich.
The appearance of this ifland is extremely beautiful and luxuriant ;
and the fupplies we received very well anfwered to the charming fcene
of their production. The natives brought us abundance of the finefl:
yams in the world, with fugar canei taro root, plantain and other vege-
i - ; H 2 tables:
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So
1788.
PtmvARr.
VOYAGESTOTHE
tnblcs r we alfo received hogs and goats in great plenty, but very littlt
poultry. Iron was the favourite commodity of thcfe people, though
beads, at times, fccmcd to poflefs an equal, if not fupcrior value-
Indeed, (luce the Spaniards have polFeflcd themfclves of thcfe iflands,
monry as well as iron arc in ufo among them> In the time of Dampier,
beads were the only medium of their commerce. We left the governor
a breed of Bengal (heep, which, when put on fhore, roamed in a clover
pafture, and on a foil of exuberant fertility. There can be no doubt
but that thofc animals will thrive in their Hew abode, and that future
navigators flopping at thcfe iflands, will meet with a plentiful fupply.
The water on the Jfland is very fine, in great abundance, andclofeto
the beach ; a fmall refcrvoir being formed there, which is fupplied by
a rivulet that flows from the mountains.
A Spanifli force arrived at thefe iflands fomc time in the year 1783,
to take pofleflion of them ; with what view it is, by no means, difficult
to conjedlure, when it is known that they were fuppofed to contain
mines of gold. We certainly faw a confiderable quantity of gold duft
in the pofleflion of the natives, and feveral fmall pieces which, in all
probability, had been waflied down by the torrents from the mountains,
and found in the beds of the rivulets with which thefe iflands abound.—
Thefe, fome of which wcpurchafed, were manufadlured into thick wire,
and worn as ornaments in their ears, or about the necks of the children.
hi
^ (A p;.
....^
They are well inhabited by a race of inofl^enfive people, whofe chief
delight confifts in drinking a liquor called bafhee, which is diflilled
from rice and the fugar cane. In the evening, men, women and children
meet in crowds on the fliores, with torches in their hands, and drink
bafliee till they are intoxicated, when they engage in dancing, and difplay
every
l^^:#
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
6i
every mark of fatisfafllon and contentment. It it, however, very much 1788,
to be feared that thefc idanders mud have already found a mortifying '"»"*'«'f-
intci 1 iption to their feAive pleafures, from the tyranny and bigotry
of Si i.ufh dominion.
The weather in the South Weft Monfoon is cxtrem;Iy t^mpcftuous ;
and when gales of wind blow here, they are of the moft ftormy and
violent nature.
The currents and tid^s run rapid and ftrong, particularly along the
Southernmoft of thtfe idands, all of which are low ; it is neccflary,
therefore, that (hips (hould give them a good birth in their paflage
between thefc iflands and Formofa.
?,( ■•>*.
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CHAP.
;<■
6x
1788.
FeiKUARY.
V O YAG E S TO THE
CHAP. V.
Departure of the Felice from Samboingitn . — Pafs the Felice* s IJles.-—
Mention of the Orders and Injlrudliom given by the Merchants Proprietors
for performing the Foyage. — Extriwrdinnry Change in the Temper of the
Buffaloes received on board. — Pafs the JJland of Magindnnno. — Rapidity
of the Currents. — Efcape the IJland of Providence. — Pafs the Talour
JJlands. — IJland of Sanguir. — See the North Cape. — Impoffibility of
J feathering it. — Invariablenfs of the Trade Winds in the Pacific Ocean. —
Bear up to Leeward of the North Cape. — Pafs the JJland Riou.^-
The Channel between Morintay and the IJland of Jelolo. — Fragrance of
the Jlir. — Pafs the Southern Extremity of Morintay. — Reach the Sea. —
The Latitude of Morintay afcertained.
^uefday ij. A^ N the I ztli of February, at day break, we had loft fight of
V-/ Sambouigan, and purfued our courfe along the coaft of Magindanao :
the latitude at noon was 6° 34' North, and the extreme part of the
ifland in fight, bore Weft North Weft, diftant twelve leagues. The
ifland of Bafilan bore from South Weft by South, to Weft North Weft
four leagues : in this pofition the hill we have already mentioned,
as refembling a Mandarin's cap, was very confpicuous.
We obferved two fmall iflands fituated between Magindanao and
Bafilan, bearing North by Eaft, diftant four miles : they were not of
any great extent, but entirely covered with wood. As they bore no
place on the charts, they were named Felice's Ifles.
A con-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^
A conllderable current had fet us during the night to the North 1788.
Eaft ; the wind blew fre(h from the Northward and Southward, and ^"»"**^'
at funfet we could but juft difcern the ifland of Magindanao.
Previous to our departure from Samboingan and feparation from the
Iphigenia, the orders and inftru£tions marked Number II. in the
Appendix, were delivered to Captain Douglas, for the guidance cf his
future conduft. Thofe marked Number I. were delivered by the
merchants proprietors before our departure from China. Thefe in-
ftruflions contain at large the motives to, and real objefts of, the
voyage ; and it will not furely be erring from the truth, if it is afferted,
that they do not contain a fingle expreiTion inconfiflent with that huma«
nity, or derogatory of thofe principles which it is the honour of Britifli
merchants to adopt, in conducing their commerce in the different quar-
ters of the globe. Thefe orders and inftru£lions may be faid, without
any fear of contradidlion, to breathe, in every part of them, that fpirit
of benevolence and juftice, and to contain thofe honeft incitements to in-
duftry, which, in whatever part of the habitable earth they are exerted or
employed, muft ultimately tend to the honour of humanity, and the
advantage of our country. -
On the 13th, we continued our courfe, with light and variable winds ; Wcdnefdayij
the weather fultry and cloudy. By fix in the evening, we had loft light
of the South Weftern extremity of Magindanao ; off which we had per-
ceived an ifland of a remarkable appearance, that wore the form of a
mountain, v/hofe fides flielved almoft perpendicularly to the fea.
During the night we had heavy rain ; — our courfe was to the Southward
and Eaftward ; toclofc in with the South Eaft end of Magindanao, which,
on
*•■*"— • -■ •% -^'"iijiii ;fii" >ii»<Lriiiiniii
:/f
^4
V O YAG E S TO THE
1 788. on the following morning, we liad confiderably neared ; when we found it
Thuriiiay 14 ^o ^^ '"g'^ 3"^ mountaiiious, and entirely covered with wood from the
fea to its fummit. We frequently founde<l, but procured no ground
w ith one hundred fathoms of line. The latitude at noon was 6" 2' North,
at four P. M. the extreme point of Magindanao in view, bearing Eaft
half North, diftant eight leagues ; we hauled to the Eaft South Eaft to
double the Southern extremity.
FiiJay 15 An extraordinary change now tpok place in the fpirit and temper of
the buffaloes which we had received on board at Samboingan. They were
fo extremely wild and fierce, that it was with great difficulty and fome
danger we were able to embark them ; and fo dexterous are they in the
management of their horns, that even the natives did not venture to
approach them in their new Htuation. But the natural ferocity of their
nature feemed at once to abandon them, and they were already become
fo tame as to eat out of the hand, and were aiflually much lefs vicious
than our other cattle.
On this morning, we found that a confiderable current had fet us to
the Southward of Magindanao. It bore from us North, diftant about
1 1 leagues : the Southern extremity formed an high promontory, which
wore the appearance of an ifland. ,; . • . . i. ;,
We now congratulated ourfelves on entering the Northern Pacific
Ocean with fo little trouble ; but this fatisfadion was very much di-
minifhed from the unfavourable ftate of the wind, which we found to
blow from Eaft North Eaft. The latitude at noon was 4° 58' North,
and the longitude 126° 36' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time we per-
ceived two fmall iflands, bearing South South Eaft, diftant five leagues ;
5 and
m
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 6
and the promontory of Magimlanao was yet in fight, bearing North, 1788.
,.„ , February.
diltant 13 leagues.
Tlie current now fet us fo ftrongly to the Southward, that we could
not weather the two little ifles fecn in the South South Eaft; and per-
ceiving a clear channel between them of a mile and an half, we deter-
mined to pufli through it. Thelc iflands are lofty, and covered with
wood. F"rom the North and South points of the Northernmoft ifland,
there runs a fpit of land for half a mile; and fome detached rocks from
the Northernmoft point, at about a mile diftance : on thefe rocks wc
obferved a few fcattercd trees,' which render them very remarkable.
When in mid-channel between the iflands, we founded, and had fixty
fiithoms, with white and red fhells. Wc had fcarce pafled through,
when the Southernmoft ifland opened into two diftindl ones, with the
appearance of a channel between them. At the fame time, wcfaw another
ifland, bearing Eaft South Eaft, diftant four leagues, which was alio
covered with wood ; and from the maft;-head we difcerned a dangerous
flioal and reef of rocks, which extend near three miles from its South
End, and are very remarkable from their whitenefs. Another ifland
appeared on the lee-beam bearing South South Eaft, diftant eight
leagues ; and, in this poiition, the promontory of Magindanao bore Eaft
North Eaft, diftant 18 or 20 leagues.
Our fituation dilTered, at this time, from every chart in our poflef-
fion ; it became neceflary, therefore, to proceed with the utmoft pre-
caution through this archipelago. The North Cape on the Ifland of
Morintay, by our account, bore Eaft North Eaft 134 miles; and the
Cape of Good Hope, or Northern extremity of New Guinea, South Eaft,
470 miles.- The wind kept fteadily to the Eaft North Eaft ; and as we
pafled thofe iflands, we found ourfclves drifted almoft bodily to leeward
I by
1
" 1
M
66
1788.
February.
V O Y A G E S T O T H E
by ii rapid Southerly current. Such a conthiuation of unfavourable clr-
cumftanccs left us no very flattering profpe£t of being able to weather the
North Cape ; bcfides, we were not without apprehcnfions that we fliould
1)0 obliged to bear away, and run through fuch a dangerous clufter of
iflands as the Moluccas ; a navigntion which is confulered as the moft
dangerous in the Indian lea?. We were not, however, without fome
cxpciftations, that the near vicinity of the Sun to the l>lne would produce
feme abatement of the influence of the North Eaft Monfoon. But, after
all, taking both the favourable and unfavourable circumftances in a
proper point of view, with the dark and tedious nights, the courfe before
us could not be coiifidcrcd but as replete with difficulties and perils,
both of which muft be greatly augmented, if tempeftuous weather
fliould unfortunately overtake us.
i 't
;<.:
I)
The current, like a vaft, but fteaJy, rapid ftrcam, fvvept us bodily to
leeward : — it ran, at Icaft, three miles an hour ; and we had every
reafon to believe, that it ran much ftronger as it approached the Straits
of Macaflar. Indeed, it fwept us away {o much, that we were not able
to reach the ifland feen in the South Eall; by Eaft quarter, by five leagues.
During the night of the 15th, we had a great deal of wind, but the
fca was uncommonly fmooth ; a certain (Ign that we were in the vicinity
of fome great body of land. We kept fleering to the South Eaft by
Eaft, with a ftendy gale to the Northward and Eaftward, T 'e courfes
were hauled up in the brails, in order to fee more diftindl v, and to
be in a ftate of preparation to haul upon either tack, to avoid any
immediate or prefling danger. Thefe precautions proved to be extren ely
neceflary ; for about midnight we difcovcred, by the light of the moon,
that we were clofe to an ifland, covered with a white fand, and ahnoft
on a level with the water. We very fortunately perceived this dangerous
objefV,
.^11'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
obje£V, near half a mile from us ; and had fufficient time to put the helm
a weather, and bear up to leeward. We then founded, but found no
ground with an hundred fathoms of line. Wc continued, however, to
give it a good birth until two in the morning, when we loft fight of it,
and then refumed our courfe to the Eaft South Eaft, with a frefh gale
from the North Eaft.
*>1
1788.
Fkbkuary.
Thefe low.fandy iflands, which are fcattered every where near the Line,
render the navigation of thofe parts of a very perilous nature. No
foundings can be obtained to warn the navigator of the approaching
danger : fo that in a dark night no vigilance or precaution is fufficient to
fecure him from the imminent hazard of deftrudtion.
At fun-rife, land appeared, extending from North Weft to Weft, at ^'""■■^='>' '*
the diftanceof 16 leagues. The fmall, low, fandy iflet feen in the night,
we judge to lie in the latitude of 4° 1' North, and in the longitude of
137° 10' Eaft, to which we gave the name of Providence Iflaud. At
noon, the latitude was 3" jz' North. During the Lift twenty- four
hours, we experienced a current that fet the ftiip thirty-three miles to
the Southward. Tlie longitude was 127° 58' Eaft. Land was now fccn
in almoft every diretStion, extending from Eaft North Eaft to Weft North
Weft ; and, to the Northward and Eaftward, appeared broken and de-
tached, as if composed of a groupe of iflands. The Wcftward land
was dlftant from us abr^t 15 leagues.
At fun-fct, the body of the windward ifles bore Nortli North Eaft, at
the diftance of 14 leagues. Our pofition was now extremely doubtful;
nor could we reconcile it to any of the charts on bo.-.rd. We were
indeed, inclined to fiippofe, that the land to the Nortlj North Eaftcon-
fifted of thofe iflands named tlie Talour, and the land to the Weftward
^ 2 ti,^.
^.K.v-
1
m
/
68
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
FEBRUARY.
the Ifland of Sanguir. If our cot>je«f^inTs were right, the currents muft
liave adled on us with great force in fetting us to the Southward ; and
it now became a matter of painful uncertainty if we Hiould be able to
weather the North Cape ; which was an object of the utmoft importance.
I
I).
n?
{.
\ t
We had, indeed, flattered ourfelves, that, on our approach to the Line,
we fhould have experienced variable winds ; but hitherto the wind flood,
as it were, immovably to the Eaft; nor did it feem inclined to give us
a point of advantage. Our prefent fituation, therefore, as well as our
future profpe^l:, was clouded with uncertainty; and the chance was but
too probable that we (hould be driven to leeward of Jelolo, and conle-
quently be forced to encounter a navigation of the mod difficult nature.
We were fully convinced, that, if the North Cipe could not be
weathered, a paflage muft be attempted through the Moluccas, to the
Southward of Jelolo, where there was good reafon to. expeft that we
Ihould meet, if not the North Weft Monfoon, at leaft with fuch variable
winds as would allow us to re-enter the Northern Pacific Ocean by Pitt's
Straits ; but even then, it was by no means certain, whether we fhould
be able to weather the coaft of New Guinea; nor could we refledl,
without extreme mortification, on being obliged to run down its Weftern
coaft, and, by Endeavour's Straits, to reach the Southern Ocean ; as
fuch a courfe, during which the long and dark nights would continually
obftru£l and delay our progrefs, muft, in the end, totally defeat the
purpofe of our voyage. — On the other hand, if we ftood to the North,
ill order to beat round New Guinea, againft a ftrong monfoon, there
was every reafon to believe that we fliould fail in our purpofe : in-
deed, we found it necefiary to give it up, from the evident impoflibility
of efftding it, without a great wafte of that time of which we had fo
little to fpare. Thefe tlilficulties were of a nature not eafily to be over-
come ;
NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.
69
come ; and the event proves how narrowly we efcaped from encountering 1 78S.
the very obftacles which our apprehenfioiis had placed before us. FtaRUAnr.
During the niglit of the i6th, we continued (leering to the Eaft
South Eaft under a prefs of fail. The moon (hone clear and bright,
fo that any danger round the horizon would have been readily dif«
cerned. • •
On the morning of the 17th, land was feen a-hcad, bearing in the Sunday 17
dirciStion of Eaft, atthediftance of 12 leagues; and to leeward, land was
alfo feen bearing South South Weft. The latitude at noon was 2" 40'
North. The North Cape now bore from us Eaft, Northerly, at the
diftance of 14 leagues. The wind blew fteadily from the North Eaft
and Eaft North Eaft, with a ftrong Southerly current.
We continued clnfing in with the North Cape, in expectation of re- Monday is
ceiving the advantage of a land wind ; when, at fix in the evening, being
within two miles of the iiland of Morintay, we were oblig d to tack
and ftand to fea for the fuft time. — We could not find any foundings
with an hundred fathoms of line. — But although we wf:re fo unfortu-
nate as to fall to leeward of the North Cape, we were determined
not to relax in our endeavours, till we were convinced of t!ie impradica-
bility of weathering it; and it was with this view we tacked and
ftood to fea.
By ten o'clock in the morning, we were again clofe in with the
ifland of Moiintay, having tacked at midnight for tlie ftiore ; but
neither at fea, or dole in with the land, were we fo fortunate as to
expciijnce any alteration of the wind in our fiivour. We Ind alio the
mo.tification to ob(erve, that the Southerly currents had (ct us duriug
the
Ml
:i4
i
/
VOYAGES TO THE
i)i
1788.
February.
the night, bodily to leeward of the pofition we had occupied on the
preceding evening. At noon the latitude was 2° 35' North, and we
had entirely loft llglitof the \orth Cape, which now bore Eaft by North,
diftaut 17 leagues, immediately hi the wind's eye.
The Imprad\icability of efTc^ling our objed was now become fo ap-
parent, as to embarrafs our fituation with a choice of difficulties. Wc
difcovcrcd, however, a narrow clianncl between a fmall ifland, bi aring
South South Eaft, at the diftancc of four leagues, and the ifland of
Morintay. Jelolo was alfo very difccrnible ; thcNorthcrnmoft point of
which bore South Weft, diftant only 13 leagues. Between this point
and the ifland wc have juft mentioned, there appeared an extenfive
channel ; we had, therefore, no other alternative, but to make our paflage
through it, and round the Southern extremity of Morintay, without
rifking any more of our time, which was now fo precious, in fruitlcfs
endeavours to weather the North Cape againft winds, currents, and fea.
We were perfeflly aware, that, having one? entered upon this courfe,
there would be no poflibility of returning; as well as that it niight en-
tangle us in the flioals of Jelolo and the deep gulph of Chiauw, which
is alfo lillcd with ftioals and ftiallows, and into which the monfoon per-
petually blows, bac!:ed by conftant currents. Such a combination of
circumftances wcro nivire tlian fufficicnt to convince us, that in profe-
cuting our prefcnt dcfign we muft be governed by an unremitting pcrfc-
verance. Accordingly, at noon, we bore up for the channel between
the iflands Riou and Jelolo ; and by four P. M. it was open, and appeared
of fufficlent breadth to navigate; but in the middle feveral fmall, low,
and fandy iflands were fituated, which might, in fome meafure, inter-
rupt, if not endanger the navigation of the channel ; we, therefore,
purfucd our courfe along the coaft of Riou, at the diftance of two miles :
— the
n 1
A
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
7«
—the land was every where covered with wood to the water's edge ; but, 1 7^8.
jis far as we could difcover, without the veftige of an liabitation. We
could not obtain foundings with forty fathoms of line.
At half part four, the high mountains of Jelolo appeared to rear their
fummits above the horizon, which immediately fettled the critical nature
of our fituation. We had now advanced fo far, that any attempt to •
return would have been the extreme of folly ; — the clianncl was
alrendy pafltd, but the Ifland of Morintay exttncl.d a great dt^l farther
to the Southward than any of the charts had laid it down :— Riou
was alfo pafled; and now a deep, capacious channel was formed by
Jelolo and Morintay, of near 12 or 13 leagues in extent. The great
gulph of Chiauw was now under our Ice; — a range of low, fandy
iflands, conneflcd with flioals, were fituated about five leagues off
Morintay, in the channel along which we fleered. Tiie moon fhone
very briglit, or we (hould not have ventured to proceed during the
night. The wind blew ftrong from the North Eaft; and men were
conftantly ktpt in both chains, to attend to the foundings, as well as
on the yards to look out f )r broken water, or any other circum-
ftance of danger. As we paflcd thofe iflands, the flioals appeared very
plain, at the diftance of about four miles, and we could fee a dreadful
■ furf rolling over them. Our foundings were now from fix, fevcn, to
eight fathoms, very regular, and over an hard, fandy bottom. On
getting more out into the cbaiincl, we had fourteen, twenty, and fome-
times even thirty fathoms, with the fame kind of ground. Thcfe iflands
extend near five leagues. North and South,— are about five leagues froia
Morintay, and eight from Jelolo. We think it would be incrtafing
the incidental hazards of this channel to pafs between the iflands and
Morintay, as we found a ftrong and rapid current fetting us almoft
due South.
It
u
"«
f
K-
17S8.
I'iilKl/AKV.
VOYAGES TO THE
It was greatly to our mortification that wc pafled this chamul cliiring
tlic night, as we were thereby prevented from fending boats on fliorc to
examine the nature of the foil, and to look for turtle, as low, fandy
idands are places where they are generally found. In our paflage we
perceived the air to be ftrongly perfumed with fpicy odours ; fome of
us even imagined they could diftinguilh the peculiar fragrance of the
nutmeg plant. ; ::. ■^ ' ' '« '
n
m
As we cleared this chain of illands and fhoals, we kept as clofc to the
wind as pofilble, to near, once more, the South end of Morintay, which
TuefJayiQ We happily cfFecled by break of day on the 19th, being only three leagues
from it. We kept fleering thus till noon, when the latitude was 1° 47',
the extremes of the ifland of Rlou bearing from South Weft by Weft, to
South Weft, one half South, diftant nine leagues; and the extremes of
Jelolo bearing from South South Weft, to Soutii Eaft, diftant eleven
leagues : in this pofitlon the channel we had failed tluough was entirely
doled,
Wedncfdayio Our courfe was continued to the Eaft South Eaft, with the wind from
the North Eaft, but light, till the 20th ; when at noon, we had, to our
great joy, a confidcrable offing towards the fea; the latitude was i°56'
North, the ifland of Morintay bearing from South by Weft, half Weft,
to Weft by North, half North, diftant fixteen leagues ; and the ifland of
Jelolo bearing from South by Weft to South Weft, diftant fourteen
leagues. Thus we moft happily reached the fea, without any material
lofsoftime, and through a channel which, in any other situation, we
fhould not have ventured to pafs ; though we faw nothing to prevent a
flilp pafting it with eafe and fiifety, by following the example of our pre-
caution, and attending to the particular circumftances which have been
juft related ;— The bearings are marked with all poflible care and fidelity,
for
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
71
for the benefit of any navigator, who, from preference or necefljty, miy 1788.
think proper to follow our courfe. PMauAtr.
From Magindanao we had hitherto experienced a continuance of flrong
currents* fetting to the South and South Weft ; the wind invariably at
North Eaft ; and, in the whole track, from that ifland to Moriutay«
we have noticed mod of the dangers which lie between them. '"
We confider the Southern extremity of the ifland of Morintay to be in
the latitude of 1° 40' North, and the longitude 1 28° Eafl of Greenwich : —
The land which was feen on the i6th, muft have been, as we thencon-
jeftured, the Talour Ifles, and the Ifland of Sanguir.
;| '»|
K
CH A J>.
V.
its
l\
i^'
r»
1788.
FftkbAkV.
VOYAGES TO THE
CHAP. VI.
il
Hi
Slip^i Courft purfitid to the EaJlwarJ.^Curnnts fit Lr to the 1/IjhJ of
ll'dgiew. — Symptoms of the Scurvy among the Crew,— J f^ind veers ^ for the
firft I'imej to the North prefi.^^Ptifs iFagiew and the dangerous fhtce
IJks. — Freewill [fles feen.-^Natives come on Board. — 'their Joy at feeing
Iron. — Some Account of thofe IJles. — 'thi'ir Latitude and Longitude ^ ^c. —
'The Jlrong Currents in their Vicinity. ^
Friday >» "jV TO material occurrence happened till the iid ; tlie courfc was kept
i ^ to tlie Eaft Sjuth Eaft ; the wind blew fteadily from the North
Eaft, and we daily experienced a Southerly current. At this time the
Northern extremity of New Guinea bore from us in the diredlion of
Eaft South Eaft, diftant 1 20 leagues, when we faw land, bearing Eaft
South Eaft, to Weft by North, at the diftance of about nine leagues
from the body of it. The land to tlie Weftward wc concluded to be
the Ifland of Wagiew, which forms the Northernmoft part of Pitt's
Straits ; but of the land to the Eaft we could form no conjeflure, as
none appeared to be marked on the charts in that direction. The lati-
tude at noon was only 12' North of the Line, and the longitude was
131° 10' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time the Ifland of Wagiew extended
from South Eaft by Eaft, to Weft, and our diftance from the body of it
might be about fix leagues.
In this fituation wc were drifting bodily to leeward on Wagiew, and
found it to be almoft impoHible to double the extremity of this ifland,
much
' \
N O R T II W E S T C O A S T O r A M E R I C A. 75
much Icfs New Guinea, without fmnc favourahlo alteration of the 1788.
winds whicli liail hitherto never varied from the North Eaft ; bcfidcs, the '*•*"***•
ftrong Siiuthcrly currents had now let the fhip thus fur, fothat we were
altogether In a fituation furroundcd with circumftanccs of uncertainty
and cnibarraflinent. We fcarce knew how to cxpetJl a cliangc that
would be propitious ; and, ntverthelefs, a patient expe»flation of it
fcfmcd to be ahnoft tlic only refourcc, fuch as it was, that remained to
us. The weather was extremely fultry, but the winds were light,
which was the only favourable circumftance of which we could boaft.
A perfcvcring fplrit, however, foinetimcs furmounts dangers that ap-
pear to be infurmountablc, and we determined to continue the exertion
of it.
This day, at noon, we had made no progrefs whatever. The latitude Sai"rJ»yij
was 0° 20' North of the Line ; and the longitude was 131° jV Eaft. We
were now diflant only five leagues funn Wagiew, which extended from
Eaft South Eaft, to Weft South Weft. The land bore a very different
iippearance from that which we had hitherto fcen : — it was extremely
high, compofcd of broken and dctnchtd hills, and prefented, as f;ir as wc
could difcover, a very barren afpeH:. — It ran due Eaft and Weft, and all
the hills (helved abruptly into the Tea. We could procure no foundings
with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. A fmall ifland was alfo per-
ceived in the North Eaft quarter.
¥'
i '1 \
'■I
14
t I
Thus were we approaching every moment nearer to the land, with-
out any profpeil of fuch a change as would reward our perleverance.—
We had now been purfuing, for a long month, an intricate and fatigyinf
navigation, without having made any confiderable progrefs. The fultry
heats alfo began to affcd feveral of our people ; and the expetStation of the
tedious paflage to America, with which we '.\ere threatened, rendeied
K 2 the
H
76
1788.
FSBKUAKY.
VOYAGES TO THE
the crew not only diflatisfied, but defpondent. Symptoms of the fcurvy
had begun to appear, in fpite of our f trift adherence to thofe admirable
rules of regimen fo happily conceived, and fuccefsfuUy praflifed by Cap-
tain Cook. We had now redoubled our attentions to keep off the in-
teinal enc;my that threatened us, wlti'i .in anxious expeflaticn of fuccefs,
but. we know not how hr that wou' 1 hiwe been gratified, if an alteration
hnd not taken place with us,, which »nli/encd the droopinf; fpirits of the
crew, and animated them to iiew endeavours. At four in the evening
of this day, when we were within three 1. agues of the ifland, the wind
fprung up on a fudden from the North We/.l, which was the firft favour-
able change wc had experienced fince o'.ir departure from Samboinjjan.
0
Wc took an immediate advantage of this fortunate circumftancr in our
favour; the couifc wad altered to the North Eaft, and al! fail fet ; fo
that, at fun-fet, we had got a confiderable diftance from Wagiew.
More land was nov fecn a-head, which was very low, and, from its
detached, broken appearance, we judged to be a groupe of iflands.
During the night we kept (landing to che North Eaft, immediately
for the land, and the wind continued to the Weft North Weft, which
SuiiAiy j+ enabled us to keep our courfe till day-break on the twenty-fourth, whe:i
we found ourfelves within three leagues of the land feen on the pre-
ceding evening It confifted of feveral iflands, as we had conjeilured,
which were very low, entirely covered with wood, and furroundcd by
Hioals and reefs of rocks, and appeared to be of confiderable extent.
They bore from North Weft, to NoMh Eaft by Eaft, and were diftant
from each other about five miles. •
As no fuch iflands were placed on the charts, we thought proper to
• name them the TaUe Ifles, from the word, which was continually vo-
ciferated
y\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
77
clferated by the few natives who came within hearing, of the (hip. 1788.
They are fituated in 0° 20' of North latitude, and in the longitude of f"*''*'"^-
132° 2' Eaft of Greenwich. They are very dangerous to approach, efpc-
cially in tht ^.t?.!/ and the (hip that (hould be tempted to pafs through
them, would inevitably be loft.
We (aw feveral canoea paddling between the reefs ; and two of them,
containing each five of the natives, approached very near to the (hip,
vociferating the word Tateet 'Tatee, with great violence ; but no tempta-
tion on our part could prevail on them to come along-fide, though we
held up many of thofe articles which we thought the moft likely to
entice them to a nearer communication with us. — They regarded the (hip
with much apparent wonder ; and, from their various antic geftures,
we h-.d great reafon to fuppofe that they had never before feen fuch an
objeifl. They appeared to be of the fame race as the Papua people,
woolly-headed, perfectly black, and with the features of the African
negroes ; but in their forms ftout and athletic. They held long fpears
in their hands, pouited with bone^ which they, from time to time,
brandlfhed at us.
Their canoes were of a peculiar, and very curious conftrudlion; —
they wcFe very narrow and long, and, to keep them on a balance, a
large out-rigger run out on one fide, with net- work between, made with
ftrong cord, manufadured from tlie rind of the cocoa-nut. On this,
which formed a kind of a ftage, were placed their arms, implements for
fi(hing, &c. We wi(hed very much to fend boats on (hore, but as the
(hip could not approach near enough to the land for the purpofe of pro-
tecting them, on account of the (hoals, we thought it highly imprudent
to expofe our men to any hazard.
Towards
•>-. .*.
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. Towards noon, to our great joy, the wind frcflicned up from tlie North
Fe»Rf.\Rv. ■yy^.f^^ when we bid adieu to the Tatee Iflos, and piufued our courfc to
the Northward and the Eaftward, every league of which was become
of the utmoA confequence. At funfet, the extremes of the Tatee liles
bore from us Eaft by South, to Soutli Eaft by Eaft, dirtant five leagues :
the tops of tlie trees juft appearing above the water. At this time the
extremities of Wagicw bore from South Well: by South, to South Weft
by Weft, diftant 10 leagues.
Wc.iiicf';! S7 We now purfued our courfe till the 27th, with a favourable, but, in
general, alight wind. It thundered and lightened with great violence,
and the weatlier was extremely clofe and fultry. The tliermometer w.is,
at this time, at SS'', and very often at 92°. At noon the latitude was
56 minutes North, and the longitude 136^ 35' Eaft of Greenwich.—
Land, or rather trees, were dcfcricd from the maft-head, bcarinpf from
Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft : when we were tolerably near
them, the currents, ran very ftrong to the South South Weft : as wa
were not able to weather the Northernmoft, we bore uptc the leeward of
it, and there now appeared to be four fmall ifles, the largcft of which
was not more than live leagues in circumference. We ranged within
three miles of the fhore, when we obfervcd a large village lituated on
the Ihore of the ifland, in the midft of a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; every
other part appeared to be an entire forcft, without one interval of
cultivation.
We were very foon vifited by a great number of canoes, contain'ng,
altogether, at leaft five hundred natives, all men. Each of thefe canoes
held fix or fcven people, and were of the (iime conftrudion as thofe of
the Sandwich Iflands. The natives alfo bore the appearance, and to our
great aftonilhment, fpoke the language of the inhabitants of thofe ifles ;
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
and the refult of our obfervation is a conjefture, amounting almoft to a
firm belief, that they arc of the fame race. They came along-Hde the fhip
without ceremony and without arms, and fupplied us with a confiderable
quantity of frefli gathered cocoa-nuts and coir line, which was repaid
by hits of iron hoop, of about an inch in length.
79
1788.
Pebruakt.
When the piece of iron was held up to their attention, they were all
feized with a kind of filent, but exprefUve joy, tliat cannot be defcribed :
but the man who procured it, immediately began to caper and dr.nca
round the deck, and laying down on his back, tuir.bLd and rolled aboift
in fuch an extraordinary manner, that we really imagined he was fud-
denly afFected by fome very fingular diforder, till he rofe up and kifled
the bit of iron with thofe emotions of extravagant joy, which manifcftcd
the extreme delight he felt at being in the pofleflion of what he efteemed
fo great a treafure. His comrades, from an anxious curiofity to fee it,
crowded round him ; but in a moment he had plunged liimfelf into the
fea, and then turning his head towards us, and again kifling the bit of
iron, he fwam haftily to the (hore. Several iron hoops were now or-
dered to be cut up, and each of our vifitors was gratified with a bit of
the precious metal, who all left us with reiterated exprelfions of the moil:
grateful acknowledgement.
Thefe iflanders are of a frank, amiable ancl confidential difpofition :
and they found in return, that kind of reception from us, which they
will not quickly forget. We obferved, however, in their canoes large
mats, which, on enquiry, they informed us were ufed by them as coats
of mail, and were capable of refifting the attack of a fpear ; indeed, {o
clofe and ftrong is their texture, that at a very fmall diftance, they could
fcarcely be penetrated by a ball from a piftol. It appeared, therefore,
.-ind the refleaion is not of a picafing nature, that thefe amiable people
knew
f "'^1
>','
u
.>«^ . .<■»— mn^..— '*"
8o
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. knew the arts, and, ofcourfe, muft frequently feel the horrors of war ;
KBKVAKT. jjj^j ji^jjj ^^^ ^^j ^£ jj^jjjg bcholds hls victims in the remoteft corners
of the globe.
This groupe of iflands was originally difcovered by Captain Carteret,
iu his voyage roinid the world. He was pleafed to give them the name of
the Freewill Ifles, from the frank and unreferved condud: of the inha-
bitants. It may not, perhaps, be generally remembered, that one of them
accompanied him in the Swallow: — He was called Tom Freewill, and
^cd in his pafTage to the Celebes. .
The interval that had elapfcd, from the period of Captain Carteret's
vifit to thefe iflands, to the time of our appearance before them, occu-
pied fo coufiderable a fpacc, that this young man's departure witli
him, might very naturally be fuppofed to have been forgotten by his
countrymen. But, on tlie contrary, feveral of the natives pointed to the
Ihip, and then tofea, and by other fignificant geftures gave us tolinder-
ftand, that one of them had been carried away. As we were well ac-
. quainted with the circumftancc from Captain Carteret's journal, we, in
return, informed them that their fugitive countryman was no more:
when they all entered into an immediate conference, and then renewed
their communications, with an air of perfe£l indifference. At leafl:
there did not appear to be any one among them who, as a friend ov
relation, exprefled the leaft concern for poor Tom Freewill's fate !
We now refumed our courfe to the North Eaft, with a gentle gale
from the Weft North Weft. On palfing to the Northward of the
iflands, we obferved that they were connected by very dangerous reefs of
rocks, which extended three or four miles in every direction. At funfet,
I the
\\
<*-.-,-.. ■u I*'.
m^-
: i
\i:
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n
i'v
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-iff-
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fei, tt.'^siflK* fiW t-vi
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.(',
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lii'id tli3C the gci:[ o<" •- -^'fv iich'!'?': Ill- viriM -.-. ii> t'l, rfp-,(.tS' 'r
■ Ti:
#■■
'• nginally d^ilcavcwd by Captain Carteret,
>'W. I fe W.1* p'l«sre(i to i?j v-o thci3n thirnSiKke of.
,fc:f|!« i.xembentl, t;h<itoa6of them
WHS ri^li^j T<ira f'fecwill, a^d "
k'
bin:, i»?f' *: ^- 'T' '' "Wuill;|i be i.;j^)ojii(^ to h.-wc- been i»rgottcn by hit
tonnt;^:;r '^ ?'*:.?•■ 'fv, fin-f'r let' !■!• !-:;,t;ycT pmnttid-to. the
>*t
H
:• *' .^ . nulii^ersiice. At lean
y ' fcrno FreeviiW's tatc I
, On pafiirif to rfciv iN^^r+hwiim _ af rjut
ji' foui jw2te* a» every U#»«<^^.;^. At foofeti
■*'^ i^^t^gAJl—^ .^^, ^
\^.
S I
i
'4
\h
<il :.. S
.11.
':)>
f\
,< V(
if
¥m'
I -f
•'^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
8i
the body of the iflands bore North North Weft, at the diftance of four 1 788.
, , February,
leagues. : r .
The weather on the 28th became fqually ; the whid veering conti- Timrfday >«
nually from North to North Eaft, fo that we feldom made good our
courfe better than Eaft, or Eaft by South. At noon the latitude was
0° 55', the winds light, with heavy fqualls of rain, and much *■ ider
and lightning.
On the 29th in the morning, as we were ftanding to the North, with Friday 29
a light air from the South Eaft, land was difcovered from the maft-head;
as we ranged up with it, we found it to be the Freewill Ifles. This was
a circumftance which we could noteafily reconcile ; and as the iflands in
this ocean bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, we, at firft, thought
that we muft be miftaken ; but the point was foon fettled by the arrival
of many of our late friends, who came paddling through the reefs to
bring us a prefent of cocoa-nuts, for which, they were with fbme dif-
ficulty perfuaded to take any tiling in return. One man, in particular,
held up a bit of iron which he had received from us but two days be-
fore, as a token that he remembered his benefactors.
mi
vl
■11 li
^ "II,
At noon the latitude was i° 7' North ; and, by a medium of the fe-
veral diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 137" 10' Eaft.
The body of Freewill Ifles now bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the dif-
tance of four leagues ; which leaves them in the latitude of 0° 56' North
of the Line, and in the longitude of 137° Eaft of Greenwich.
»i '■'
The currents muft on the 28th have fwept us bodily to leeward ; but,
as we imagined, not with fo much force as to occafion our falling
in again with thefe iflands;— on the contrary, we found that, on
% ' ftanding
1788.
March.
Saturday 1
VO YAG E S TO THE'
ftanding to the North, for the laft twenty-four hours, though we were
Aeeiitig Eafl, our courfe was not much better than South, a little
Eafterly.
We did not lofe fight of thefe iflnnds till the firf> of March ; when, at
noon, our latitude was i° 40' Nortli ; the wind, as ufual, veering from
North Eaft, to Eaft North Eaft. The wciiiirr was gloomy, unfettled,
and very fultry. At times, we had licavy fqualls of rain, which
proved very unwholelbme for the crew, from conftant damps, a clofc
atmofphere, and wet cloaths. To tliefe unpleafant circumftances may
be added, our (low progrefs to the North, which fo afFefted their fpirits,
and of courfe relaxed their activity, that all the attention and care of the
officers were requ^Hte, to check the progrefs of fuch an alarming evil.
'/ J
CHAP.
> «
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
i
CHAP. VII.
83
1788.
Makck.
Extreme Heat of the IVeather.'^Very tempeJluoHS. — Spring the Foremajf.^-
Lofs of fame of the Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. —DeJiruQion of many of the
Plants intended for the Sandwich IJles.—^eafons for pointing the ShifsCourfe
to the North Wejl^ tSc^Mode of vidiualling the Crew. Occupations on
Board. — Intention of Building a Feffel of fifty Tons in King George* s Sound.
— Carpenters complete her Moulds and Model.— Chinefe Carpenters ignorant
ef Ship-building. — Great Burthen of the Chimfe funks. — Party feleSled to
remain in King George's Sound. — Experience the 'tail of a Tiffoon.'— Change
of the Monfoons. '^'terrible EffeSls of TiJoonSf in the Chinefe Seas and
northern Pacific Ocean.
/^N the 2d of March, the longitude of the (hip, by a medium of Sunday t
^-^ feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 1 36° 27' Eaft of Green-
wich, and the latitude 2° 52' North. At this time, the variation of the
compafs was 2" 30' Eaft, and the quickfilver in the thermometer was
at 86, and often at 90, fo that we fufFered very mucli from the extremity
of the heat.
-^^%A
I
The currents very feldom allowed us to make our courfe better than
by South Eaft ; and hitherto there appeared no probability of being able
to weather New Guinea. We had, indeed, conquered the North Cape ;
but there remained New Ireland, New Hanover, and many different
groupes and clufters of iflands, to the Northward of the Line, and many de-
grees to the Eaftward of our fituation. If we had purfued our courfe, we
h 2 tnufJt
li
V
84
.t
1788.
VOYAGES TO THE
muft have determined either to proceed through Dampier's Straits, or
thofc difcovered by Captain Carteret, which divide New Britain from
New Hanover ; but if both thefc paflages were rejected, there was no
alternative left but to ftand to the Northward and Weft ward ; and to en-
deavour to obtain as much of the former as would permit us to tack and
weather all. On a due confideratioii of our circumftances and fituation*
the laft was preferred ; the (hip thcTcfore was tacked, and flood to the
North Weft, with the wind at NortliEaft,— a pomt the moft diftrefTuig
to lis of the whole compafs. '
1
1 ^
The ftock of frefti provifions we received at Samboingan was fufficient
to laft us till this time ; a circumftance which was attended with the two-
fold advantage of faving the fait provifions, and conducing to the health of
the crew. A plentiful allowance of water was continued, as the beft
prefervativc againft the fcurvy ; and, if a diminution of this article
(hould be requifite in any part of the paflage, we naturally determined
it ftiould take place in the colder latitudes, as, at prefent, an extreme and
clofe heat required every liquid aid to jpreferve health, by fuftaining per-
fpi ration.
Monday 3 On the 3d, the weather became extremely tempeftuous. We had con-
tinual fqualls from the North Baft, accompanied by deluges of rain,
which very frequently obliged us to fliorten fail. Our courfe was feldom
better than North Weft, though we fometimes were enabled to make a
tack or two to the Eaft South Eaft and Eaft, when the fquall was favour-
able. In this fituation, at noon, we found the foremaft dangeroufly
fprung below the hounds ; every exertion therefore was required to fecure
it, as a very heavy fea occafioned the (hip to pitch exceedingly. The
top*mail and top'gallant-niaft were accordingly got down on deck, and
the
f^ <■
M
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the fiiils unbent ; ftages were alfo prepared round the head of the maft, 1788.
and the carpenters were immediately employed in preparing fi(hcs. Ma»cm.
This misfortune was accompanied with fevcral others of a very morti-
fy ing nature. The late bad weather and rolUng of the (hip, had deftroyed
fume of the cattle and many of the plants, in particular a fine orange-
tree, in full bloom; and half of the cinnamon-trees which we had re-
ceived at Samboingan. There, however, yet remained alive one bull
and a cow, and one cow calf; but thr goats were all killed in one day
by a Cudden roll of the Ihip. Of the plants we ftill poflcfl'ed a lime and
an orange-tree, in full vigour, 'vith fix cinnamon, and feveral fmaller
plants of various kinds.
On the 4tli, at noon, the latitude, by double altitudes, was j'o' North ; TiirfJay +
and the longitude, deduced from the laft obfervatlon of the fun and
moon, 137° 59' Eaft of Greenwich. The wind blew from the North
Eaft, and we purfued our courfe ta the Eaft South Eaft. The weather
was dark and tcmpeftuous, with heavy fqualls of wind and rain, which
raifed a confufed fea.
It was not till the 5th, that the maft was fecured, the filhing of which WednefUay 5
was a bufinefs of no common difficulty ; and, after all, we were not
without the moft anxious apprehenfions that it would not ftand agamft
the blowing and ftormy weather we cxpeifled to meet to the Northward
of the tropical latitudes.
Till the 1 2th we continued to embrace any favourable moments of the Wednefdayu
wind. Whenever it veered to the Eaft North Eaft, we tacked and ftood
to the Northward and Weftward ; and, if it veered to the North, our
courfe was bent to the Eaftward. It feldom, however, permitted our
ftandiu^
86
VOY'AGES TO THE
i
1788. ftandiuglong on either tack; for it generally blew very ftrong, with
M^lkJ'7 lieavy fqualls of rain. Our latitude, at noon, was therefore but j"" 15'
North, and the longitude 144° 25' Eaft; and on the 17th, we had ad-
vaiKcd no further tlian 3° 25' North, and 146" 30' Eaft. Such was out
tedious progrefs, which, together with a continuance of the moft un-
pleafaut and unwholefome weather, tended, more or lefs, to difpirit
every one on board. But this was not all ; the continual damps, proceed-
ing from the frequent rains, and the people being, from the fame cir-
cumftance, fo often, as well as fo long in wet cloathing, together with
moift decks, awakened our apprehcnfions to encreafing fymptoms of the
Icurvy. Ja this fituation, we doubted very much whether we (hould be
aljle to weather the iflands of New Ireland or New Hanover, which
bore off us not only Eaft South Eaft, but many degrees to the Eaft-
ward. We had worked into our prefent pofition immediately in the
wind's eve.
t>' ■»
I!
5
Some of the difficulties which would probably attend the purfuing of
our firft track, have already been mentioned ; nor were we to hope for
a change from the fun's near approach to the equinoftial. Tedious
calms, attended with heavy rains, were naturally to be expected with ^
vertical fun. A fmall portion of our voyage was yet performed, and an
immenfe track yet lay before us, to reach to the i6oth degree of longi-
t-ude, when we muft neceffarily crofs the Line.
According to the manner in which we had proceeded, we ftiould not, in
all probability, gain that objeft before the loth of April ;— on the other
hand, if we fteered to the North Weft, we had grounds for expedling a
change of wind in our favour, if not the monfoon, by the ift of April : —
it was, therefore, again refolved to weather the Philippines, and point
our courfe fteadily to the North Weft.
With
':ri'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
With plenty of water, each man was allowed half a pint of fpirits in the
courfeof the day, two-thirdaof which were mixed with water, and the re-
mainder, at this time, ferved in its raw ftate, which often proved a falutary
and cheering cordial in the rainy weather. The provifions were ordered in
the beft manner we could conceive to preferve health, or, at leaft, to
check the progrefs of difeafe. — In the morning and evening tea and fugar
were ferved out to the crew ; — they had abundance of rice, peas, and
barky, which, with flour and fruit, were ferved with every poflible va-
riety th y would adroit. The pork and beef were always well fteeped,
and the conflnnt ufe of vinegar was called in aid to contribute its fhzm
towards correcting the bad efFe£ls of falted provilions.
tf
1788.
MARCJi.
We kept ftanding on to the North Wcflr, and nothing material hap- Sunday 30,
pened, bet wet i the laft and the prefent date. The weather was now, in-
deed Leci mc extremely pleafant, and the heavy fqualls of wind and rain
which had fo continually diftreflcd us, were, for the prefent, entirely
diflipated. At noon the latitude was 21* 2' North, and the longitude
139° 48' Eaft ; the variation of the compafs 4" 34' Eaft. During this run
we every day faw large flocks of birds, fomc of which we perceived to
be of that Ipecies which never ily tar irom land.
We embraced the opportunity which was afforded us by the prefent
favourable weather, to overhaul our fails, and prcpaic for the tempeftu-
ous weather we had every rtafoii to expcd in oiu progrefs to the North,
cfpecially near Japan. Two co npleat new iiiits or fails were prepared,,
new roped, lined and middle ditched ;. all the old fails were, at the fame
time, put in a tolerable flate.
The coopers, armourers, and other artifans were always properly em-
ployed, either in the immediate fervice of the fliip, or according to
1. their
, I
18 - VOYAGES TO THE
1788. their (kill, In preparing articles of trade for the American market. —
March. ip^^ Chinefe armourers were very Ingenious, and worked with fuch a
degree of facility that we preferred them to thofe of Europe. The in-
ftruments they employ in their work are extremely fimple, and they very
fliortly accompllfli any defign that is placed before them. ,
The carpenters were alfo at work in preparing the moulds and model
for a floop of fifty tons that was defigned to be built Immediately on
our arrival In King Gcorge*s Sound, as fuch a veffel would be of the
'^Jtmoft utility, not only in coUefting furs, but in explorlrg the coaft.
Our head carpenter was a young man of much ingenuity and pro-
feffional fklll, who had ferved his time in London ; but the Chinefe artifi-
cers in this branch had not the leaft Idea of our mode of naval architec-
ture. The veflels of their nation which navigate the China and adjacent
feas, are of a conftrudion peculiar to them. In veffels of a thoufand
tons burthen not a particle of Iron Is ufed ; their very anchors arc
formed of wood, and their enormous fails made of matting. Yet thcfo
floating bodies of timber are able to encounter any tempeftuous weather,
hold a remarkable good wind, fail well, and are worked with fuch faci-
lity and care as to call forth the aftonlfliment of European fiilors. It
was, therefore, a matter of fome difficulty to turn the profehional Ikill
of our Chinefe carpenters to a mode of application (b entirely difi^ercnt
from their own habitual experience and practice.
A party was fele£led from the crew who were to be left on fliore with
the artificers, to be employed In building the vcffcl. This arrangement
was made at fuch an early period. In order that the people might be fully
prepared, immediately on our arrival In the Sound, to begin their intended
operations. It Is true that we had no one article in rcadinefs for the
• purpofe ;
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 89
purpofe; our timber was (landing in the forefts of America, the iron 1788.
work was, as yet, in rough bars on board, and the cordage which was
to be formed into ropes, was yet a cable. Neverthelefs, encouraged by
that fpirlt of ardent hope which animates man to oppofe the difficulties
of life, and invigorates life itfelf, we looked forward with a kind of cer-
tain expcftation that our purpofe would be efFefted, and that the veffel
in contemplation would be actually launched fome time in the month
ofOftober.
On the iftof April at noon, the latitude was 2Z° 26' North, and the Tuefday 4
longitude 139° 38' Fiaft. The weather f emcd to have acquired a fettled
gloom, the clouds were uncommonly black and heavy, and, throughout
the day, there was much thunder, and lightning. Numerous flocks of
birds pafl'cd us from tlie windward, making loud noifes in their paiTage,
as if apprehenfive of bad weather. We alfo pafled fome rock-weed,
which was a fign of being at no very great didance from land."
On the 2d, the thunder and hghtning encreafed, without being ac- Wednefday o
companied with any confiderable degree of wind. The fea, neverthe-
lefs, was in an unufual commotion, and the (hip pitched fo heavy, that
the head-rails were Carried away, and fome other injuries fuftaincd.—
Towards noon it became fqually, and we experienced feveral puffs of
wind from every point of the compafs, which, with the encreafing
darknefs, left us no doubt of the approach of a very violent ftorm.
The top-gallant yards and marts were got down on deck, — the
main-fail furled,— the top-fails clofe reefed, and the mizen balanced.
All the fails were handed, except the main top-fail, which it was judged
prudent to keep abroad : in this fituation we waited the coming of the
tempeft ; nor 4;d it difappoint our expeftations. At two P. M. the wind
.; M fliiftcd
1788*
VOYAGESTOTHE
(hlfted to the South, and began to blo^;^ (Irong in Tqualls: the (hip's
head was kept to the North Eaft ; it thundered and lightened with great
violence, and at half part three an heavy fquall came from the South
Eaft, inftantly followed by another from the South Weft, both of
which blew, for a ftioit time, with alternate and incredible fury; the
latter, however, prevailed, and continued blowing from the South Weft for
near an hour. Indeed, the meeting of thefe two fqualls to leeward of us,
was tremendous, and the fea was carried to fuch an height as to keep the
horizon in a continual foam. Happily for us, we experienced only the
tail of this tuffbon or whirlwind ; but, as it was, we expedled every mo-
ment to have the mafts ftiattered to pieces ; the main top-fail having been
fwept away, and frittered to threads.
> a
The fea foon rofe to fuch an alarming height, that it became neceflary
to fet the fore- fail and feud before tlie ftorm. In order to preferve the
(hip, which plov/ed her way with furprifing fwiftnefs. It now blew
from the South Eaft with a prodigious fea, before which we kept fteer-
ing. Thus we were fcudding along, when, to the leeward of us,
we perceived the water to rife many feet above the level of the
fea In circles, which formed a beautiful but awful fight; fb that
wo were obliged to perform the very unpleafant, ai>d, indeed, rather
dangerous operation, of heaving to in fuch a high fea, to avoid running
into the dreadful vortex before us, which continued, as It were, to fweep
the horizon till five o'clock ; when this alarming whirlwind fubfided,
and fettled in an heavy gale from the South Weft, before whicli we
fcudded to the North Eaft.
To thofe who have read Kempfer's Hlftory of Japan, the violence of
this tufFoon will not be confidered as a clrcumftance that borders on
5 phaeno-
<i
'I
i»
■""~v, ■"■«»»'.■.
:■■«**■■
<
\
NORTH WESr COAST OF AMERICA.
^hacnomenon,^ fuch horrid guflsof wbd being at certain periods, accord-
ing to that writer, the commDU difturbers of thole feas : though we had
feveral old and experienced fcameii in the (hip, who had never before feen
luiy thing of this terrible nature. We, however, confoled ourfelves with
the belief that it was the critical moment when the Monfoons changed ;
iiiore particularly as the ftorm from the South Weft blew in fuch a
fteady current.
Had this ftorm happened when it was dark, it might have proved fatal ;
as it was, we were, not a little furprifed that fome of the mafts or yards
were not carried away : however, we were not fufficiently recovered from
our alarms, to venture upon fetting much fail during the fucceeding
night.
The period when the Monfoons change in the China feas, and the
Northern Pacific Ocean, is a time that ftiould be dreaded by every fliip
that navigates them. Thefe changes are generally in the months of
April and October, though they fometimes happen not only much
earlier, but alfo much later in the feafon. That which is confidered as
moft dangerous, is the variation from the North Eaft to the South Weft,
when ftorms very generally trouble thofe feas. They are remarkably
violent on the coaft of Japan ; but when they arife into a tuftbon, tio
power or ftrength can withftand them. The ruin they fometimes occa-
(ion is almoft incredible; — nor is it lefs difficult to conceive with
what fury they blow from every point of the compafs.
91
Amu.
The Chinefe, dread beyond all meafure, thefe violent hurricanes, which
fometimes fweep large villages and their inhabitants to deftruiSlion ; at
other times whole harvefts are diffipated by their deftrudive breath, and
Ma famine
1 ,j
i^f-:-
m^
#i
1788.
ArtiL.
V O YAG E S T O T H £
famine follows .^From a fimilar caufe, in the year 1787, accompanied
with exceflive drought, a moft dreadful dearth prevailed throughout the
Southern provinces of China, by which an incredible number of people
periflied. It was no uncommon thing at Canton to fee the famifhed
wretch breathing his laft ; while mothers thought it a duty to deftroy
their infant children, and the young to give the ftroke of fate to the
aged, to fave them from the agonies of fuch a dilatory deatlu
ij ' 1
<
% ^1 j, ^
CHAP.
NORT» WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
C HAP. VIII.
93
1788.
April.
Land feen^ but prevtnted from approaching it.—DifcoveryoflJlands^ which we ■
named Grampus IJUs. — Feel the JVeather extremely coldy with the probable
Reafon of it. — Number of Birds feen.—Pafs by great ^antities of Rock'
weed. — Difc'iver ajlupendous Rock,which we named Lot* sWife. — The Rafter
of an Houfe^ and a Piece of Canoe feen floating on the Water.— ^empejluous
Weather.— 'ATurtle feenfieeping on the Sea, tSc.-^Weather becomes fiormy as
the American Coafl is approached. — Crofs the Tracks of the Refolution and
Difcovery. — Error of the Ship's Reckoning &c. — A Sea Parrot feen for
the firjl Time. — Extraordinary Brightnefs in the Atmofphere. and to what
Caufe attributed. — T'be Coaji of America feen — Princefs Royal fails out of
King George's Sound. — Dijirefs of the Felice, Ss"*:. — Anchor in Friendly
Cove, in King George's Sound,
/^N the 3d of April, the weather became moderate, and the ftorm 'HuuMay j
^"^ fubfided ; but about noon, the wuid (hifted to North Weft, and
blew with extreme violence, accompanied by a ftrong and mountainous
fea. Our courfe was to the Eaft by North, under clofe reefed top-fails
and fore-fail. The latitude was 24° 56' North, and the longitude
^43° j9' Eaft of Greenwich.
Towards night it again moderated, when we made fiiil : — the wind
now ftiifted to the Eaft South Eaft, and we ftood to the North Eaft.
till the 4th ; when the wind fixed itfelf in the North Eaft quarter, and Frjay 4
we accordingly ftood to the North Weft, with fine and moderate
weather.
f. In
i:m^ .>,»'**^
Tym
94
1788.
April.
V O Y A G E S T O T H E
In this fituation, land was feen bearing Eaft 'North Eaft, diftant eight
leagues, immediately in the wind's eye, which prevented us from
approaching it. Our latitude at noon was 24° 44' North, and longitude,
deduced from our lafl lunar obfervations, 145" 41' Eaft of Greenwich.
We regretted very much that we were not able to approach this land, as
we 'knew of none in this part of the Northern Pacific Ocean. As we were
fleering to the North Weft, we foou entirely loft fight of it.
, Si
v.-
Saturday J On the 5th, the wind Shifted to the South Eaft, which enabled us
to fteer to the North Eaft, when at two o'clock iii the afternoon we
thought land was vifible to the Eaft South Eaft ; but the weather was
fo extremely hazy, that it could not be afcertained whether it was land
or a fog-bank. At three, however, land was feen in the North Eaft
right a-head, but the weather continued to be fothick and foggy, that tlie
dircdlion in which it extended could not be difccrned. At half paft four,
we were abreaft of it, at the diftance of five or fix miles, when it ap-
peared to be an idand, but of no great extent. It now rained very
hard, and the atmofphere remained fo hazy, that our obfervations of the
land were rather imperfect. It however appeared to be one of thofe
barren ifles fo frequently found in thefe feas. — Its length might be fif-
teen or fixtcen miks from North to South ; the (hore feemed to be
inaccefllble to boats, from a great furf beating againft the rocks, which
terminated abruptly in the fea. The interior p^rts of the country ap-
peared to be iiigh, and a few folltary trees were very fparingly (cattcrdd
on their declivities. We failed along the ftiores of this ifland till fix
o'clock, when another ifland opened to our view, which was feparated
from the former by a channel of three or four leagues. It now blew
very ftrong, with rain, and fo thick a fog, that we could fee no diftance
a-head.
M
Though
.» ^
NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.
Though the gale was favourable, yet, from the appearance of the
weather, it was thought prudent to fliorten fail, and remain under fuch
as would enable U3 to haul to the wind on either tack. The utmoft
vigilance and attention wps employed to guard as much as poHibleagainft
any danger, and we failed, as ufual, all night with the courfes hauled up
in the brails. Thefe ifles, of which we could not difcern the number,
were named Grampus Ifles, from feeing a large grampus fpouting up
water clofe to the fliore, which is a very uncommon fight in thole fcas.
The night of the 5th, was very tempefluous, with couftant rain ; but
to confole us for thefe inconveniences, we had a fair gale, with which
we made great way to the North Eaft.
9$
1788.
On the 6th, the wind fliifted to the North Weft, which brought xis Smuhyt
clear weather, and blew a fteady gale. At noon the latitude was 27° 30'
North, and the longitude 148" 37' Eaft. At this time the varLntion of
the compafs wab 3" 20' Eaft.
Our progrefs to the North now became very rapid, and we experienced
a very fudden tranfition from heat to cold. Having juft left a climate
where the heats had been intenfe and oppreflivc, it was very natural the
aftive operations of cold (hould be very fenlibly felt by the whole crew.
This circumftance liowever, enabled us to reduce the allowance of water
from a gallon to five pints per man, without any inconvenience what-
ever arifing from fuch an alteratioiK
r
Li
The favourable gale at North Weft continued till the eighth at noon. Tuefday s
The latitude then was 28° 58' North, and the longitude 154" 19' Eaft. —
Our principal objed was to get to the North as faft as poffible, in order
to benefit by the ftrong Wefterly winds, as well as to run down our
• longitude
-VOYAGES TO THE
h
! Ill
m
1788. longitude in an high latitude. This North Weft gale continued to ua
the fliarp piercinglcold which has been already mentioned.
Wfdiirfjay , The ncxt day we paiTed by a confiderable quantity of rock«wecd,
which we imagined tr bu but lately broken ofF, and for feveral days we
had {een great numbers of birJs. We were now confiderably to the
Northward of the fcvcral fmall iflands fcattered either within or about
thetropic, in the Northern Pacific Ocean. We could not, therefore, form
any probable conjedlure from whence this weed came, and whither the
birds retired at night, as they regularly left us about funfet, and took
their flight to the Eaft.
About nine o'clock in the morning, a fail was defcried from the maft-
head, and, in about half an hour a large (hip was feen from the deck. She
appeared to be under an extraordinary croud of fail, and exhibited a very
, lingular figure, for not one of us, even with the afliftance of glafTes, could
make out which way (he was (landing. The fight of a (hip in thofe feas
was fuch an unufual circumftance, that for fome time conjecture was at a
lofs concerning it. At length, however, it was determined to be a galleon,
bound to China from New Spain, and by fome cafualty driven thus far
to the Northward ; though the track of thofe (hips to Manilla, is gene-
rally between the parallels of 13° and 14° North latitude. In confequence
of this opinion, feveral letters were written to inform our friends in China
of our fafety, and the progrefs we had made in tlie voyage. This extra-
ordinary delufion, for it was no more, continued till we were within two
leagues of the objeft; when, on viewing it with aglafs, it was difcovered
to be an huge rock ftanding alone amid the waters. — The firft among
us who became fenfible of the deception remained filent, and diverted
themfelves with the ftrange conjectures and humorous obfervations of
the
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y.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the Tailors, one of whom was fo certain of its being a (hip, that he was
convinced he faw her colours. Its appearance did, indeed, very ftrongly
refemble a firft-rate man of war, under a croud of fail ; and fuch was
its fhape, that, at a certain diftance, it held forth to the eye the form of
every particular fail belonging to a fliip. As we ranged up with this
rock, our furprife was proportionably augmented, and the failors were
more than difpofed to believe that fome fupernatural power had fuddeiily
transformed it into its prefent fhape. It obtained the name of Lot's
JVife^ and is one of the mod wonderful objedls, taken in all its circum-
fiances, which I ever beheld.
By noon we were abreaft of it; when it bore Eafl North Eafl four
miles. The latitude was 29° 50' North, and the longitude 142° 23'
Eaft of Greenwich. The waves broke againft its rugged front with a
fury proportioned to the immenfe diflance they had to roll before they
were interrupted by it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the htiglit,
according to the tables, of near three hundred and fifty feet. A fmall
black rock appeared juft above the water, at about forty or fifty yards
from its Weflern edge. There was a cavern on its South Eafl-
ern fide, into which the waters rolled with an awful and tremen-
dous noife. In regarding this flupendous rock, which flood alone in an
immenfe ocean, we could not but confider it as an obje£l which had
been able to refift one of thcf'^ gre^T convulfions of nature that change
the very form of thole parts ci be g'lbc which they are permitted to
defblatc. ' s^
V
1788.
ArniL.
um'
'1* h'f}i
aw
This day, at noon, our latitude was 33' 18' North, and the longitude Saturday ,»
i6i** Eaft, with a /leady gale from the Southward, We pafled by a
great quantity of rock-weed, and faw feveral large flocks of birds. la
the evening a piece of timber, which appeared to be the rafter of an houfe,
J[Sf , and
I'
I
m
i
I'ii-
W
if
f§ . ; 1 h VOYAGES T O T H E
1788. a"d apiece of a canoe, were feen floating upon the water, and foon after
April. ^ fpar, that appeared to have been newly cut. Thefe were certahi
indications of land, and occaHoned, if pofltble, an added exertion of
vigilance, as this part of the Pacific Ocean is -entirely unknown.
In the evening of this day the weather became gloomy and overcaft,
with every ufual appearance of an approaching ftorm. It blew ftrong
Sunday 13 throughout the night, and on the following day, at noon, the gale was
confiderably encreafed. The topgallant yards and mafts were accordingly
got down on deck, and every other precaution taken to provide againft
the bad weather that threatened us. Our apprehetifions were fhortly re-
alized; for about four o'clock, it blew with fuch violence from the
South, that we were obliged to clofe reef the topfails, and hand the
mainfail. The wind was accompanied with fmall rain and thick wea-
ther. We pafled by large quantities of weed; and the furface of the.fea
was covered with a reddifh fpawn, that extended fevcral miles. It fooa
after blew a perfeft ftorm; the topfails were therefore immediately
handed, and we fcudded before it under a forefail, followed by a very
heavy fea. — In this fituation, we were overtaken by a moft violent guft
of wind, which made us apprchenfive of fome material damage. — But
very fortunately the topfails had been handed in time, and, tlie forefail
being now reefed, we continued to purfue our courfe. In this heavy
guft the wind fliifted to the Weft, and raifed a very confufed lea, which
broke on our decks, and endangered the boats ; but, in fhifting its point,
Monday .4 the wind did not abate its violence, nor did at all fubfide till the 14th,
when the latitude was 36° 20' North, and the longitude 167° Eaft.
It was determined to run down our longitude, as much as poflible, iu
the parallel of 40° North ; and, as it was an unknown track, we were not
without the hope of meeting with land, previous to our gaining fight of
1 the
■
Ww
i^
1
mi
('
L.l
\ V'
99
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
the Continent of America, evident figns of which had been obferved by 1788.
Captain Cook, as well as by us, in this latitude. — Indeed, from the va- *'^''»""
rious circumftances which have already been related, it is highly probable
that there is land in this part of the Northern Pacific Ocean.
The tempeftuous weather continued till the (7th, when the wind Timrfdayi?
' veered to Eaft South Eaft, and blew with augmented violence. It mode-
rated, however, at noon, when the latitude was 38° 51' North, and the
longitude 175° 10' Kaft. — Though advanced fo far North, we this day
pafled a large turtle fleeping on the water, which being awakened
by the noife of the fliip, immediately funk. Large flocks of birds ftill
continued to frequent us, and the rock-weed became a common objcd.
We now experienced a great degree of cold, and the morning and even-
ing air, in particular, was uncommonly Iharp. The variation of the
compafs was 9° 20' Eaft.
Storm fucceeded ftorm till the 23d, when the weatlier broke, and Watncfdsyij
the wind moderated. Thefe violent gales from the Northward and
Weftward, not only brought with them a bithig cold, but alio fleet and
fnow, which made confiderable depredations on our fVock. We felt
however, the fatisfadion of having fair winds, principally from the South
Weft, from which quarter it blew very hard ; but when it fliiftcd to the
North Weft, it encreafed beyond the power of del'ciiption, with a 'i-rcat
and mountainous fea. We had fortunately embraced ;i fn.vourable oppor-
tunity of bending a new fuit of fails, as the old ones muil have been
Shattered to pieces by the violence of thefe ftorms. The air was (harp,
like that of bleak froft in England, which more frnfibly atledcd us
from our long continuance in tropical climates. Indeed we were not
without occafional fhowers of fnow and hall. Flocks of birds, and large
! I,
;, : «. '"1
'*iV 1"
N
quantities
i«o
VOYAGES TO THE
h '^
1 788. quantities of rock-weed, continued to encourage an anxious expeftatioii
April of feeing land.
On the 23d, at noon, we pafled the trunk of a large tree. Our lati-
tude was 41° 35' North, and the longitude was 189° 25' Eafl: of Green-
wich. We now began to draw nigh to the American (bore, which was
a very dcfirablecircuniftancc, as, among other prelling reafons, the ftiip
was become extremely light, Irom the great expenditure of provifioiis and
water. Wc had, indeed, been of late extremely fortunate in our winds,
but much more fo in the health of the crew, who felt no other incon-
venience but what arofe from fo quick a tranfition from heat to cold.
Thiirfdayj4 During thc night it blew ftrong from the Weft North Weft, with
cold rain. On the morning of the 24th the wind backed round to the
Southward and Eaftward, a certain prelude of blowing weather ; and at
noon it blew fo hard as to oblige us to hand every fail ; and, till three in
the afternoon, we fulfered as fierce a ftorm as we ever remembered to
have feen, with a greater fea than we had hitherto experienced. There
was alfo continual rain, and the cold did not abate its feverity. The
rigging fufFcred confiderably, and the ftiip ftrained very much in her roll-
ing ; nor were we without our apprehenfions for the crippled foremaft.
But, amid this fevere and tempeftuous weather, we enjoyed the confo.
latory refledlion that we were every moment approaching nearer to the
deftined port. ' j'
Friday 15 On the 25th the weather moderated, and the wind veered to the Weft
North Weft. The latitude, at noon, was 43° North, and thc longitude
by account, 196° 28' Eaft. It blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South
Weft, with clear weather ; and we made good our courfe to the Eaft
North
i «
(i-
t
»
L
.^
ji
ii 1'
» \
•--riii-y'tiTr'-"-'^ •
«l
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
North Ea ft, running feWom lefs than fifty leagues a day. From the 1788.
23d we had experienced atontinual fucce/non of gales. We were occa- achil.
fionally favoured with an hour or two of clear weather, which was always
fucceeded by a return of ftorm ; fo that we were never able to fet more
than a clofe-recfed topfail.— Our run was no lefs than 230 leagues in this
fliort period. Indeed the weather not only continued to be cold and com-
fortleCs, but was, at times, fo very cloudy, that we found no opportu-
nity of taking any lunar obfervations, ui order to afcertain, with any
degree of accuracy, tlic run of the (hip. ■
The fame weather continued, and we purfued our courfe without any WednefJay^c
novelty of fituation or circumftance, till the 30th, when a fccond fpar
pafled by, which from its appearance, and a notch that had been re-
cently cut in one end of it, could not have been long in the water. — The
birds had forlaken us in the beginning of the late tempeftuous weather,
and we no loiter faw the floating rock-weed, which had, for lome time
paft, been a daily objeiS.
We had now twice croffed the tracks of the Rcfolution and the Dif-
covery in thefc feas : that on their return from the Coaft of Japan to
China, and their later track from Ooiiala(hka to the Sandwich Iflands.
Captain Cook had formed fome flight conjedure of there being land
between thefe tracks and the coaft of America, and our prelcnt courfe
running diredly through that part of the fea, it is moft probable that we
fliould have difcovered it, if there had been any fo contiguous to the
American fhore. ^ .; ► :.;:' . ■
May.
On our entrance into the month of May, the weather became not only Timrfday i
moderate but pleafant : — the wind blew from the South, and we purfued
5 our
iH
.A 'J
VOYAGES TO T U t CSM
1788.
May.
our cotirfe to the Eaftward. The latitude, at noon, was 46° 5' North,
and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diflances of the fun and
moon, only 212° 5' Eaft of Greenwich ; whereas, by account, we were
in 221° 41' Eaft — This material difference muft have arifen from the
variety of contrary currents we experienced in the lov/ latitudes, as well
as thofe which may be fuppofcd to have ftt us to the Wcftward, on our
tacking to the North. We had every reafon, therefore, toconje£lurethat
'We muft have approached the vicinity of Japan ; and that we accom-
plilhed our puftiige to the North between the iflands of Ladrone and the
New Carolines. The variation of the compafs we now found to be
21° 18' Eaft.
SiinJay 4
The wind continued to be favourable, though it occallonally blew in
ftrong fqualls. The latitude, at noon, was 48° 10' North; and the longi-
tude, deduced from the laft obfervations, 223° 22' Eaft. In the begin-
ning it became foggy, and blew from the South South Weft in heavy
fqualls, which obliged us to heave to, for the firft time, under the reefed
forefail. However, as it moderated in the morning, we bore up, and pur-
fued our courfe to the Eaftward. >* ■ • < •' i' •'• y". " : ■yj -.•■ v » ■ Je^r W
^iifi':
A?T
Wedncfday 7 \\'q experienced a ftrong gale Hll the 7th, when, at noon, the latitude
was 49° 28' North, and the longitude, by a medium of feveral diftances
of the fun and moon, 228° 26' Eaft. , , , - ..-, ■ ^xy-fry;;}
Timrfdays On this day, at noon, the latitude was 49° 28' North. n the evening
we faw a fea-parrot, and paflld a piece of drift-wood. We had frequent
fqualls of hail and fnow, but th.c weather was more moderate tlian we
had known it for fome time.
On
V
y
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
103
1788.
May.
Saturday i*
On the loth, the latitude was 49° 32' ; and the longitude, by the me-
dium of feveral fights, 230" 52' Eaft, and only 3° from King George's
Sounds We kept running, during the night, under a prefs of fail, di-
reflly in for the American coaft. The whole atmofphere was in a ftate
of illumination, which we attributed to the reflexion of vaft mountains
of fnow on the continent : nor were we miftaken ; for, on the morning
of the I ith of May, the long-wi(hed for land of America appeared, bear- Sunday n
ing Eaft by South, at the diftance of 13 leagues. It confifted of a ridge
of mountains, whofe fummits were hid in the clouds. This land might
be feen thirty leagues in clear weather. As we clofed in with it in
the evening, the vapours cleared away from the tops of tlie mountains.
At noon the latitude was, by double altitudes, 49° 33' North, ajid King'
George's Sound bore nearly Eaft of us. We kept ftanding in for the
land, and when within four leagues of it, the wind veered to the
South Eaft by Eaft, which obliged us to tack andftand to fea, the wind
blowing almoft immediately out of the Sound, which we now plainly
difcerued.
I
A veflcl was now feen under the wrathcr land of the Sound bear-
ing down to us; but as we were under a pixfs of i.iil, and night coming
on, we could not fpeak to her, without much inconvenience ; but we
neverthclefs knew her to be the Princefs Royal, of LiOndoii, on a trading
voyage for the furs of America.
The night of the i ith was a dreadful one ; fucli heavy gufts and fqualls
of wind fucceeded each other, that we were prevented from carrying any
fail. Thefe fqualls brougiit hail and fnow ahjiip; vviththtm; and, to-
wards midnight, it blew ;i perfed ftorm. When the morning broke, we
had loft fight of land, and the fliiphad ftrained fo much, that wo had fix
feet water in the hold, with two pumps difabkd ; nor did this gale mo-
derate
Ri
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104
1788,
May.
VOYAGE* TO THE
derate till the 1 2th at noon, when the (hip wa» wore, and we ftood in for
the land, bailing the water from the hpU, which was rather encreafing
on us. The latitude was 49° 26' North. We therefore kept fVanding in
for the land till feven o'clock in the evening, when that comfortable ob-
jrdl was again very clearly ditcerned : but we had another mortification to
fuffer, for we found that the late ftorm had blown us to leeward of the
Sound. We were therefore under the provoking ncceffity of tacking once
more, and (landing out to fea, with the wind at North North Weft ; the
Sound bearing North Eaft, at the diftancc of feven leagues.
The night of the 1 2th was (6 tempcftuou?, that we were obliged to lay
to under the reefid forcfail, all the crew being employed in bailing the
water out of the hold; as it was not in our power to refit the pumps for
immediate fervice.
^¥
Tuefdayij On the moming of the 13th the wind veered to the South by Eaft,
blowing as hard as ever, with heavy rain, when the ftiip was wore, and
her head pointed in for the land. About eight it moderated, when fail
was immediately made, and, by ten o'clock, we happily anchored in
Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound, abreaft of the village of Nootka,
in four fathoms water, and within an hundred yards of the ftiore, after a
paflage of three mouths and twenty-three days from China.—— The
reader who has accompanied us through our long, difficult, and harafled
voyage, will eafily conceive the grateful joy we experienced on our arrival
in fafety at the harbour which we had fought with fuch continued toil,
and through fuch various dangers.
It cannot be thought improper, as I truft it will not prove altogether
ufelefs, to offer fuch obfervations as occurred to me on the pafTage firom
China to the North Weft Coaft of America.
It
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fiiiifai.. v-i th«t the ' . ! b.'.fwn u» id leeward of.thC'
1?«A«»df W-' :«\-r<* ' rf under tho p^:'•(^l'>^^l|• tttfcsffiry of trt king onw
iww*. v!n<tf rtaaJitt^'cw** «» fH-H wifh the wttwi a< NirtN NorihVVcft.; the
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,' e Itth «rai fo tert'i|>*rti«>«*, ttiaf we rrnvt ablij»ed to lay
itew?; jH flie crew beiitf" emj'byctl ia fa«{iHiijj fh*
^patw 1.1^ • -.w ; aj. if was t^ Jw mir ■ pc«rcr to refit the pu'.nps f^-r
''■ ■
irn mediate ic; vice.
;0» ;,'•• -.v.;;.|;> u ._,.;. :., ...:... -c-' .. ; ;.' ^ttth -by Knil",
M'jiwiuj; XV hard *i» ever,- wltii heavy rata, wlicu tiis fhip wa« ttorc. aiJtl
5icrH'-2d po'ttttfd in for .ths land. Abn^it elgh? i' aiodcrated, wlit^n fail
Mm* imme»5?rfftU'. m446, 1114 'by t?*' **«l<j^, we. happily aitchortd hi
Wii-'m^iy Cove, mK.mg Otfl'r^:t' • Anvmi^^iiiTtiii «rf tho village Af M«jocfca,
Kiifotir fkthmtis wattff, Ati;J withm nfi ImitdrcJ yards of rlw fliOi.% after a
js^^^^f'tliree months atjf} n*iq»«3r'>tfuM'(C <iaj'» from Ctuna. The
^^SidtJf wV^liiW sccompavii^.ru!- chrcoiga tmr^}^^^ difficult, .nnd haraiTcd
.fo^^stg?, will sitSi^f coticiTva fh*: grateful joy \vc cxperienred nn oar arrival
kk <j[^^ *t irEi- hsp^wr M<kJ^ w© had (ought with fuch cont»jJued toil,
■mlii. 'labs^-rs.
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f'. .;tions as cwrcurrcd to ms m» jIu: patlkgs tVom
Chiuap ^ t|i* J^?«rfl3. W^ Coad of Awwksa.
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
It would not be prudent for (hips bound to America, to purfue our
•route, if they are not ready for fea by the middle of November, or
the loth of December at fartheft. The long and heavy delay we met
with, after leaving Samboingan, is the beft proof of the difficulties
we found in getting to the Eaftward at this period of our voyage ;
when the currents alfo run more rapid, and the feafon is more tem-
peftuous, as we have reafou to believe, than in the months of No-
vember and December,
loj;
1788.
M*r.
It had been our intention, at one time, to perform this voyage by
failing round New Holland, and ftretching fufficiently to the Eaft, to
fetch the Sandwich Iflands previous to our making the coaft of America;
or we had the choice of pulhing through Endeavour Straits, and perform-
ing the fame point ; but this latter courfe was reje«£ted on account of the
dangerous archipelago of iflands fcattered to the Eaftward of thofe
(traits; and the former was abandoned from the circuity of its navigation,
which would demand a much longer time than we could fpare : it was
accordingly conjeftured, that if a paiTage was attempted through the
Sooloo Archipelago, then ftretching to the Eaftward, to weather New
Guinea, New Ireland, and New Hanover, — and again tacking to the
Northward, to obtain the Wefterly winds, that we (hould have a quick
and eafy paflage opened to America.
'4 n
The event proved that we had judged rightly in adopting the laft ;—
but, in my opinion, a ftill cafier and much better paflage is now opened
to America ; and it is fubmitted whether, in future, it would not be
preferable for (hips bound there, to effe£l their way by the palTage be-
tween Luconia and Formofa. This opinion is not the fanciful refult
of vague conjefture, but has, as I conceive, fomewhat of an experimen-
tal foundation on the following circumftances :— . j ^,
- : O Ou
11.
t
I0&
1788.
May.
'-'' VOYAGES TO THE
On our arrival with the Felice in China, in the autamn of 1788, the
agent of the merchants in England, and the agent of the merchants in
India, formed an union of intereils, and aflbciated themfelves under a
joint ftock, to carry on the fur trade of America. They accordingly
equipped a fhip called the Argonaut, under the dire£tion of Mr. Colnet,
a lieutenant in his Maje(ly*s navy, and who had commanded in the
years 1787 and 1788, the (hip Prince of Wales of London, belonging
to the merchants trading to America. This (hip had performed her
voyage to the coaft, and returned to China with a valuable cargo of
furs in 1788, and from thence to England, laden with teas on account of
the Eaft India Company. Mr. Colnet quitted the Prince of Wales in
China, to command the Argonaut, and take charge of the alTociated
merchants property on the coaft of America. Of his nautical abilities I
fhall only obfcrve, that they are fuch as to receive no addition to their
reputation from any teftimony of mine : he accordingly prepared the
Argonaut for Tea, and the Princefs Royal of London, a vefTel belonging
to the fame commercial fociety. *■ ^ . r >t ,
Thefe (hips were not ready for fea till the 17th of April, 1789;
when, on comparing the tracks of the Felice and the Iphigenia, and the
time thty met the Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the Northern Pacific
Ocean, it was thouglit that tlie parage to America might be effected
between Luconia and Formo(a, with greater eafe and expedition than
by purfuing the track by Magindanao.
The Princefs Royal therefore failed in February, and did not reach
the coaft of America in lefs than (ixteen weeks : but the tardinefs of
her voyage arofe from her being a very heavy failer, and not copper-
bottomed. — Whereas the Argonaut, who was both flieathed with copper
and a prime failer, left China the 26th of April, 1 789, and arrived in
I ». King
\V
FV^ ^1
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
107
King George's Sound the 3d of July following; which was a paflage 1^88.
that exceeded our moft fanguine expeftations. m***
The future navigator from China to America, is here prefcnted with
four different tracks of that voyage. But if it Ihould be my lot to be
again engaged in it, I fliould leave China early in the month of March,
and endeavour to make a pafTage between Luconia and Formofa, in
order to gain the Pacific Ocean, where, at that feafon, variable winds
might be expe£led to the Northward of 20° ; and when the violence of
the North Eafl Monfoon would alfo be much abated in the China feas.
Indeed in the month of April, there would be almoft a certainty of
meeting the South Weft Monfoon or Wefterly winds in the latitude of
25° or 30° North, which prevail there, and blew us home to the
American fliore.
On leaving Canton, great care fhould be taken to work fome diftance
up the coaft of China, between the Lema Ifles, and as high as Pedro
Blanco, or the White Rock, before the China fea is croffed for Formofa :
but no paifage, I think, (hould be attempted between the rocks of
Ville Rete and the South-end of Formofa, except during the day, in
clear weather, and with the appearance of a free channel.
O2
CHAP.
I'
! 108
[:v
'i'i
i\t '1
17S8.
Mat,
VOTAGESTO THE
N . \
V
c II A P. IX. u.y<.uy i
\\
He commodious Situation of Friendly Cove^ in King George's Sounds Great
Numbers of the Natives ajemble to view the Ship.— 'the Joy of Comekela
on his Arrival f tsc.^Hannapa^ a Chief comes tn hoards with fame Cir-
cumjlances of his Vifit 'the Natives bring Supplies of Fi/h. — Comekela
prepares to go on Shore. — His Drefs^ &c. and the Manner in which he is
received by his Countrymen. — Employments of the Crew. — 7he Arrival of
Maquilla^ Chief of King George's Sounds with Callicum^ a Perfon the next
in Rank to him. — A Defcriptien of their Dreffes, and the Ceremonies they
praSlifed onfeeing the Ship.— 'they come on Board. — Prefentmade them. —
thePerfons of thefe Chiefs defcribed.— Leave obtained to build an Houfe
and Fejfelt and Ground granted for that Purpofe. — Prefents made on the
Occajion. — Callicum attaches hinifelf to the Ship^ and is appointed Protestor
of the Party on Shore ^ by Maquilla.^An Houfe built in Friendly Cove. —
Defcription of it. — Keel of a f^ejfel laid. — Some Account of the Murder of
Callicum by the Spaniards f in the following Tear, > -
i^r '
TH E fhip had been moored but a very fhort time, when It began
to blow a tempeftuous gale of wind, with very heavy rain ; the
commodious fituation, therefore, of Friendly Cove, made us truly fenfible
of our good fortune, in being thus fecurely placed in a protecting haven,
where neither ftorm or tempeft could alarm our fears or trouble our
repofe.
Our earlieft attention was invited to a multitude of the natives, aflem-
bled on the banks in front of the village, in order to take a view of the
(hip.
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
ihip, Comekela, who for feveral days had been in a ftate of the moft
anxious impatience, now enjoyed the inexpreflible delight of once more
beholding his native land, to which he returned with the confcious pride
of knowledge acquired by his voyage, and in the pofleflion of thofe arti-
cles of utility or decoration, which would create the wonder, and en<
creafe the refpeft of his nation. His joy, however, received no incon-
fiderable interruption from the abfence of his brother Maquilla, the
chief of King George's Sound, and his relation.Callicum, who flood next
in rank to the fovereign. Thefe chiefs were, at this time, on a viHt of
ceremony to Wicananifii, a powerful prince of a tribe to the Southward.
Of this circumftance we were informed by Hannapa, who in the ab-
fence of the two fuperior chiefs was left in power at Nootka, and who
was come on board to pay us a vifit.
At this time Comekela was dreiTed in a fcarlet regimental coat, deco-
rated with brafs buttons,— a military hat fet off with a flaunting cockade,
decent linens, and other appendages of European drefs, which was far
more than fufficient to excite the extreme admiration of his country-
men. Nor was Hannapa infenfible to the appearance of Comekela ; for
he regarded him not only with the moft prying attention, but alfo with
ftriking cxpreffions of that envy which is a very prevalent paffiou
among the natives of this part of America.
In a (hort time the fliip was furrounded with a great number of
canoes, which were filled with men, women and children; they brought
alfo confiderable fupplies of fifh, and we did not hefitate a moment to
purchafe an article fovery acceptable to people juft arrived from a long,
and toilfome voyage.
Jbi
109
1785.
May.
t
•r
y>mm
1788.
Mat.
VOYAGES TO THE
III the evening the weather cleared up, and Comekela prepared to go
on fliore. The news of his intention was foon communicated to the vil-
lage, which immediately poured forth all its inhabitants to welcome
him to his native home. •
t ?
h
I )i
V-
Comekela had now arrayed himfelf in all his glory. His fcarlet
coat was decorated with fuch quantities of brafs buttons and copp6r ad-
ditions of one kind or other, as could not fall of procuring him the
mbft profound refped from his countrymen, and render him an objeft
of the firft defire among the Nootka damfels. At leaft half a (heet of
copper formed his breaft-plate ; from his ears copper ornaments were
fulpended, and he contrived to hang from his hair, which was dreffed
en queuct fo many handles of copper faucepans, that his head was
kept back by the weight of them, in fuch a ftifF and upright poHtion,
as very much to heighten the fingularity of his appearance. For various
articles of his prefent pride Comekela had been in a (late of continual
hoftility with the cook, from whom he had contrived to purloin them ;
but their laft and principal ftruggle was for an enormous fpit, which the
American had feized as a fpear, to fwell the circumflance of that magni-
ficence with which he was on the moment of dazzling the eyes of his
countrymen ; — And fituated as we were, this important article of culinary
fervice could not be denied him. In fuch a ftate of accoutrement, and
feeling as much delight as ever fed the pride of the mofl fplendid thrones
of Europe or the Eaft, we fet out with him for the ftiore, when a
general (hout and cry from the village aflured him of the univerfal joy
which was felt on his return.
k
The whole body of inhabitants moved towards the beach, and with a
moft unpleafant howl, welcomed him onshore. At the head of them
appeared
^^iNpi>**^>*-^NHH.>*-«Mta
— f
■jT *. -**«!J«»- • .-ft-— i-
T
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
appeared his aunt, an old woman of about eighty years of age, and, from
her appearance, might have been fuppofed to have lived in a continual
ftate of filth and dirtinefs from her birth to the moment in which we
beheld fuch a difguft'mg obje£t. She embraced her nephew with great
afFeftion, and ihed the fcalding rheum of her eyes on the cheek of
Comekela.
After the firft ceremonies of welcome were over, and the firft gaze of
admiration fatisfied, the whole company proceeded to the king's houfe,
into which poribns of rank were alone permitted to enter, and where a
magnificent feaft of whale blubber and oil was prepared : the whole com-
pany fat down with an appetite well fuited to the luxuries ojfthe banquet :
even the little children drank the oil with all the appearance of extreme
gratification ; but Coinekela's tafle Teemed to have been in fome degree
vitiated by the Indian and European cookery, and he did not enjoy
his native delicacies with the fame voracious gluttony as if his fto-
mach had never known ths variety of other food than that of Nootka.
The evening was pafled m great rejoicing ; their fbngs and dancing con-
tinued during the greateft part of the night. We returned on board
early in the evening ; but we heard for a long time after the found of
their fcflivity.
Ill
1788.
Mat.
ii
rmn
'1'
Nootka is fituated on a rifing bank, which fronts the fea, and is
backed and ikirted with woods*. In Friendly Cove the houfes are
large, and in the common faflilon of the country. Each of thefe man-
fions accommodates feveral families, and is divided into partitions, in the
* A particular account of the village or town of Nootka, is refcrved for that part of
this volume which will treat at large of the commerce, geography, Sec. of the North Weft
Coaft of America. ■ ..,,..
'.}('■. manner
*^«r''-'^ik-
IIS
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. manner of an Englifh ftablc, in which aH kinds of dirt, mixed with
blubber, oil and fifli, are dlfcovcred by more fenfcs than one, to form
a mafs of undcfirable filthiiicfs.
wr.inff,bji4 On the 14th, the weather was fufficicntly fair to admit of our dif-
patching a party on (hore to erctft a tent for the wooders and waterers,
as well as one for the fail-makers. For this purpofe a fpot was chofen
at a fmall diftance from the village, and contiguous to a rivulet. The
reft of the crew were employed in unreefing the running rigging, un-
bending the fails, and the other neceflary duties of the ftiip.
i :-■
F/l
{^
r.uUy li On the i6th, a number of war canoes entered the cove, with Maquilla
and Callicum ; they moved with great parade round the (hip, fuiging at
the fame time a fong of a pleafmg though fonorous melody : — there were
twelve of thefc canoes, each of which contained about eighteen men,
the greater part of whom were cloathed in drefles of the moft beautiful
Ikins of the fea otter, which covered them from their necks to their
ancles. Their hair was powdered with the white down of birds, and
their faces bedaubed with redjind black ochre, in the form of a fhark^s
jaw, and a kindof fpiralline, which rendered their appearance extremely
favage. In moft of thefe boats there were eight rowers on a fide, and a
fmgle man fat in the bow. The chief occupied n place in the middle,
and was alfo diftinguifhed by an high cap, pointed at the crown,
and ornamented at top with a fmall tuft of feathers.
We liftened to their fong with an equal degree of furprifcand pleafure.
It was, indeed, impofliblc for any ear fufccptible of delight from miifical
founds, or any mind that was not infenfible to the power of meloily,
to remain unmoved by this folemn, unexpedled concert. Theehoruswas
in unifon, and Aridlly corre<£l as to time and tone; nor did a diflbnant
5 note
.... - /
> •
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
note efcapc them. Sometimes they would make a fudden tranfition from
the high to the low tones, with fuch melancholy turns in their varia-
tions, that we could not reconcile to ourfelvcsthe manner in which they'
acquired or contrived this more than untaught melody of nature. —
There was alfo fomcthing for the eye as well as the ear; and the adion
x which accompanied their voices, added very much to the impreflion which
the chaunting made upon us all. Every one beat time with undeviating
regularity, againd the gunwale of the boat, with their paddles ; and at
the end of every verfe or ftanza, they pointed with extended arms to
the North and the South, gradually finking their voices in fuch a
folemn manner, as to produce an effed not often attained by the or-
cheftras in our quarter of the globe.
They paddled round our fhip twice in this manner, uniformly rifing
up when they came to the ftern, and calling out the word •wacujli,
wacujh^ or friends. They then brought their canoes along-lide, when
Maquilla and Callicum came on board. The former appeared to be about
thirty years , of a middle fize, but extremely well made, and poflefling a
countenance that was formed to intereft all who faw him. The latter fcem-
cd to be ten years older, of an athletic make, and a fine open arrangement
of features, that united regard and confidence. The inferior people were
proper and very perfonable men. A feal-lkin filled witia oil was imme-
diately handed on board, of which the chiefs took a fmall quantity, and
then ordered it to be returned to the people in the canoes, who foou
emptied the vcflel of this luxurious liquor.
»«3
1788.
J '«
A prefent, confifting of copper, iron, and other gratifying articles,
was made to Maquilla and Callicum, who, on receiving it, took off their
fea-otter garments, threw them, in the moft graceful manner, at
P our
'tr
.*«iir!vf I
»i4
1788.
May.
VOYAGESTOTHE
our feet, and remained in the unattired garb of nature on the deck.— >
They were each of them in return prefented with a blanket,— when with
every mark of the highefl fatisfadtion, they defcended into their canoes,-
which were paddled haftily to the fliore.
The manner in which thefe people give and receive prefents is, we
believe, peculiar to themfelves. However coftly the gift may be in their
own eyes, they wifti to take away all idea of conferring any obligation
on the receiver of it. We have feen two chiefs meet on a vifit of cere-
mony provided with prefents of the richeft furs, which they flung before
each other with an air that marked the moft generous friendfliip, and
rivalled that amiable interchange of kindnefs which diftinguifhes the
more polifhed nations of the world.
y l
Sunday*; From the time of our arrival at Nootka to the 25th, we had much bad
weather ; but that circumftance, however unpleafant, did not prevent us
from engaging in the different operations we had in view. Maquilla had
not only moft readily confented to grant us a fpot of ground in his terri-
tory, whereon an houfe might be built for the accommodation of the
people we intended to leave there, but had promifed us alfo his aHiftance in
for>varding our works, and his proteftion of the party who were deftined
to remain at Nootka during our abfcnce. In return for this kindnefs,
and to enfure a continuance of it, the chief was prefented with a pair of
piftols, which he had regarded with an eye of folicitation ever fince our
arrival. Callicum, who feemed to have formed a moft affeftionate at*
tachment to us, was alfo gratified, as well as the ladies of his family,
with fuitable prefents : it indeed became our more immediate attention
to con6rm his regard, as he had been appointed by Maquilla to be our
particular guardian and protestor, and had the moft peremptory injunc-
tions to prevent the natives from making any depredations on us.
X But
■ ' ' i
— <r'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
But however difpofed we might be to rely on the friendihip of thefe
chiefs, we thought it prudent, during the negotiation between us,
to inform them of our power, by explaining the force we poffeffed,
and the mode of applying it, in cafe they fhould at any time change their
prefent difpofitions towards us. We wifhcd to operate op their fears as
well as their gratitude, in order to ferurc, with greater certainty, the
objeft of our voyage.
"5
Mat.
Great advances were made in building the houfe, which on the 28th wednefdayis
was completely finished. In the very expeditious accompliflimcnt of this
important work, the natives afforded us all the afliflance in their power,
not only by bringing the timber from the woods, but by readily engaging
in any and every fervice that was required of them. When the bell
rung for our people to leave off work in the evening, the native labour-
ers were always aflembled to receive their daily pay, which was diftri-
buted in certain proportions of beads or iron. Such a proceeding on
our part, won fo much upon their regard and con6dence, that we could
not find employment for the numbers that continually folicited to en-
gage in our fervice.
The houfe was fufficiently fpacious to contain all the party intended
to be Itft in the Sound. — On the ground-floor there was ample room
for the coopers, fail makers and other artizans to work in bad weather :
a large room was alfo fet apart for the ftores and provifions, and the ar-
mourer's (hop was attached to one end of the building and communicated
with it. The upper ftory was divided into an eating room and cham-
bers for the party. On the whole, our houfe, though it was not built
to fatisfy a lover of architeftural beauty, was admirably well calculated
for the purpofc to which it was deftined, and appeared to be a ftruaure
of uncommon magnificence to the natives of King George's Sound.
Pa A ftrong
^^'^^
ii6
178S.
JUN..
f''
VOYAGES TO THE
A ftrong breaft-work was thrown up round the houfc, enclofuiga con-
fitlcrablc area of ground, which, with one piece of cannon, placed in fuch
a manner as to command the cove and village of Nootka, formed a forti-
ficntion fufficient to fecure the party from any intrufion. Without this
breaft-work, was hid the keel of a vefll-l of 40 or 50 tons, which was
now to be built agreeable to our former determinations.
;l
<••
'rimrw.iy j By thc 5 th of Junc, our operations were confidcrably advanced; the
fliips had been caulked, the rigging repaired, and the fails were over-
hauled ; — ftone ballaft had been received on board, as we found the danger
of fand ballaft, on account of its choaking the pumps, and the fliip was
wooded, watered, and got ready forfea. All this various and neccflary
bufincfs was done, though the weather had been very indifferent
from the time of our arrival, having had almoft continual heavy rains»
with foutherly winds. Thefe rains had entirely waftied the fnow from,
off the ground, and except on the fummits of the mountains and the
higher hills, fmall patches of it only were now to be feen ; but vegeta-
tion was ftill very backward, and changed but by a very gentle grada.-
tion the dreary appearance of the country on our arrival.
The party deftined to remain on fliore were bufily employed in their
various occupations : fome were engaged in bringing the timber from
the woods at a great diftance, and through a thick foreft of very diffi-
cult paflage ; others in fiuviiig and fhaping it for the feveral purpofes
to which it was to be applied, while the armourers were bufy in making
bolts, nails, &c. ready for ufe, or forging iron into the ncceffary articles
of trade ; fo that, by proceeding on a fyftem of order and regularity, we
had, in a very little time, formed our new dock-yard, in which the
carpenters had already laid the keel, and raifed, bolted and fixed the
ftern and flern-poft ; f^ that expectation had but a little while to look
5 forward.
\\
m^ ^im^ni Mm I Mm
.'JT-
VT
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
117
forward, till it would be gratified in feeing this veflel fit for the fcrvice 1788.
to which it was deftined.
Jl'ni.
If hiftories of navigation were written merely to amufe the leifure
hours of the rich, or to fat is fy the eager enquiries of the pliilofopher,
much of the minute parts of fuch a work as this would be neceflarily
omitted, as uncntertaining to the one, or beneath the notice of the
other ; but narratives of voyajres are applicable to other purpofs-s ; and,
if they fliould not prove inftrudive to future navigators— if they (hould
not tend to aid and facilitate the progrefs of commercial enterprize, the
difficulties and dangers of fuch voyages muft have been encountered in
vain, and the time employed in writing an account of them be added tO'
the wafte of life.
The good harmony and friendly intercourfe which fubfifted bjtweeu
us and tlie natives, will, we truft, be confulercd as a proof that our con-
duit was regulated by tl.e principles of humane policy; while the
generous and hofpitable denuanour of our faithful allies will convey a fa-
vourable idea of their charader, when trcnted with that kindnefs which
unenlightened nature demands, and is the true objeft of commercial
policy to employ..
The various offices of perfonal attachment which we received from
many individuals of thefe people, were fufficlent to convince us that
gratitude is a virtue well known on this diftant Ihore,— and that a noble
fenfibility to offices of kindnefs was to be found among the woods of
Nootka. Callicum poflefled a delicacy of mind and conduit which
would have done honour to the moft improved ftate of our civilization ;
a thoufand inftances of regard and affedion towards us might be related
of this amiable man, who is now no more; and the only return that we
can
ilm
< . '1
It *i
m
i.'i'ji
.11^
n8
U
, \'
\X
1788.
Juiti,
V O Y A G E S T O T n E
can make for hU friendHiip is to record it, with every expreflion of
horror and detcflation of that iiiluimnn and wanton fpirit of murder,
which deprived his country of its brightcfl ornament, the future naviga-
tor of a protecting friend,— and drove an unoffending and ufeful people
from their native home, to find a new habitation in the diflant de-
fart*.
* Thii amiable chief war (hot throagh the body in the month of June, 1789, by fii
officer on board one of the iliips of Don Jolcph Stephen Martinez. The following par-
ticulars we received from the matter of the North Weft America, a young gentleman of the
moft correA veracity, who was himfelf a mournful witnefs of the inhuman a£l : —
Callicum, bis wife and child, came in a fmall canoe, with a prefent of fifli, along-iide the
Princefla, the commodore's (hip ; and, the fi(h being taken from him in a rough and un-
welcome manner, before he could prefent it to the commander, — the chief was fo incenfed
at this behaviour, that he immediately left the (hip, exclaiming as he departed, ptjhat, ptjhat I
the meaning of which is, bad, bad l^This conduft was conddered as fo ofren(ive, that he
was immediately (hot from the quarter-deck, by a ball, through the heart. The body on
receiving the ball, fprung over the iide of the canoe and immediately funk. The wife wai
taken with her child, in a i^ate of ftupefaAion to the (hore by fome of her friends, who were
witneiTes of this inhuman cataftrophe. Shortly after, however, the father of Callicum
ventured on board the Spanilh (hip, to beg pcrmilTion to creep for the body beneath the
water, when this fad requeft of parental forrow wasi refufed, till the poor afRided favage
had collected a fufiicient number of (kins among his neighbours to purchafe, of chriftians,
the privilege of giving fepulture to a fon whom they had murdered. The body was foon
found, and followed to its place of interment by the lamenting widow, attended by all the
inhabitants of the Sound, who expreflcd the keeneft forrows for a chief whom they loved,
and to whofe virtues it becomes our duty to give the grateful tcAimony of merited afie£tion.
CHAP.
**rtfcf xMr^-..,
f>ii*iini "^'tL;^.'— -----^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. X.
119
1788.
Methods employed by the Natives to advance the Price of Sea Otters Skins,—
Thi'ir Superiority in arranging their Bargains between us. — ConduSi of
Comekela, — Made a Chief through our Influence. ^^His Marriage. — the
Magnificence of the Entertainment on the Occafon.—Maquilla and his Chiefs
affeSl our Drefs and Manners.— 'f^a/uab/e Prefent ofMaquilla.'-'AGrindJione
folen. — jin human Hand offered for Sale. — Narrow Efcape ff the Natives
on the Occajion. — Melancholy Lofs of Part of the Crew of the Imperial EagUy
in 1787. — Sufpicion that Maquiila is a Cannibal. — Extraordinary Pillow of
Callicum. — the Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to a fmall Diflance.
'—the Reafons and Facility of their Removal. — A young Otter brought
for Sale.
IN the interval between our arrival and the fifth of June, a very brifk
trade had been carried on for furs, and we had procured upwards of
one hundred and forty Tea otter (kins. On ourfirft arrival we had (lipu-
lated a certain price for every different kind of fur, according to its
value; but in the whole bufinefs of this traffic they availed thcmfclves of
every advantage ; and it was our intereft, from the views of future
benefit, to fubmit to any deviation they attempted to make from their
original agreement.
After fome little time they changed the whole order of their traffic
with us ; and inflead of common barter, according to the diftinA value
of
ill
\[4 \
20
,1
1783.
J I' ME.
VOYAGES TO THE
of the article* exchanged, the whole of our mercantile iKalings was car-
ried on by makingrcciproc.il prelciits; the ceremony of which was ac-
companied with the iitiiioll dif'play of their pride and hofpitality.— The
particulars of thcfc cuftoms nre related at large in that part of the work
which is more particularly atligncd to commercial uiformation.
Whenever Maquill.i or Callicum thought proper to make us a prcfent,
one of their perfonal attendants wa* fent to requcft the company of the
T'ig/.'ce, or Captain, on fliore, who always accepted the invitation,
chargi.d with fuch articles as were interded to be prefentcd in return.
On our arrival at the habitation of the chiefs, where a great number of
fpetHators attended to fee the ceremony, the fea otter Ikins were pro-
duced with great (lioutings and g-^ftures of exultation, and then laid at '
our fest. The filence of expctflation then fuccceded among them, and
tlieir moft eager attention was employed on the returns we (hould make;
nor can it be fuppofed, that, confidcring our credit as Britilh merchants,
we were defi>;icnt in affording the cxpcifled fatisfa^lion: — bcfides, it had
been artfully enough hinted by our Nootka friends, that as foon as their
prefcnt ftock of Ikins was exhaufted, they (hould go upon an expedition
to procure more; and tiiis was one circumftance, among others, which
naturally tended to quicken the ipirit of commerce between us.
Since tlie firft difcovery of this Sound by Captain Cook, feveral fliips
had arrived there for the purpofe of trading with the natives, who had
acquired a greater degree of civilization from fuch a communication than
we expected to have found amongft them; — but it was a matter of fome
furprize to us, that they appeared, at leaft to our obfervation, totally
deftitute of European articles : for, of all the iron, copper, beads. Sec.
which they muft have received in return for their furs, not a particle of
them
\ \
KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. lai
them was now to be frf» ;— nor is it eafy to conje£lurc in what manner 1788.
they had contrived, in iu fhuit .1 time, todlHlpate tlicir trcafures.
The fitklcnef» 'bat they at times tlifcovered in their traffic, was occa-
(ionaliy very troublcKiine. At onetime copper was their favourite ob-
je<S\ ; at another, iron was the only commodity in cftimation among
them ; bcad'i would alfo have their turn of preference. But this hcfita-
tion in their choice was generally determined by a medley of them all.
Comckela was, at firft, very a£livc in forwarding our commercial
arrangement ; but be h.id become very deficient in his native tongue, and
he now fpoke fuch a jargon of the Chini fe, EngliHi, and Nootkan lan-
guages, as to be by no means a ready interpreter b.twecn us and the
natives ; — be(idc>s, in returning to the manners of his country, he began
to prefer the intcrefts of his countrymen, and, amidil the renewed luxuries
of whale flelh, blubber and oil, to forget the very great kindncfles wc
had bellowed upon him. — But as he had, through our influence, been
raifed into a fituation of trufl and honour, it was notour intereO: to un.
fold our fufpicions of his duplicity and ingratitude towards us. Miquilla
had committed to him tlie care of his moft valuable treafures, among
which was a brafs mortar, left by Captain Cook, which was held in
the highcft degree of tftimation by the Nootka Chief. This piece of
culinary furniture was elevated from a ftate of fervilc ufc, to become a
fymbol of royal magnificence. It was kept extremely bright, and, in
vifits, or meetings of ceremony, it was borne before Maquilla, to aid the
fplendor of the regal charadler. — It was therefore an objc£l rather to
recall his former difpofitions towards us, by the continuance of our
fritMidfliip, than to juft" fy his deviation from that regard whie!i it was his
duty to manifcft in our favour. We therefore exerted our influence with
his brotiier Maquilla, to elevate him at once to the character of chief.
h ' 'I
■'.\
n
n
^
by
122
VOYAGES TO THE
\v
1788.
JUM.
by marrying him to a woman of rank in his own di(lri£t. This favour
was immediately granted to our folicitation, and we were invited to the
nuptials, which were folemnized with all poffible magnificence. — Half
a whale, a large quantity of other fifh, with an adequate proportion of
oil, formed the fumptuous part of this entertainment, which was ferved
with a furprizing degree of regularity to near three hundred people, who
condu£ted themfelves with great order, and exprcfl'ed extreme fatisfiidtion
at the fplendor and hofpitality of their chief.
Friday 6
On the 6th, a meflengcr came on board from Maquilla, with the informa-
tion that he was preparing to make us a very fuperb prefent, and to defire
our attendance on fliore, in order to receive it. — We immediately waited
on the chief, and found him drefled in an European fuit of cloaths, with
a ruffled (hirt, and his hair queued and powdered : — thcfe decorations of
his perfon were part of thofe prefents which Comekela had received
from us, and were, wltli all their weight of copper ornaments, confidered
as a proud diftiniflion of Nootka royalty. The king was furrounded
with feveral chiefs, who were all adorned with fome particular article of
Englifli drefs, which appeared to afford an uncommon gratification to
their vanity; and, on this occafion, tlicy had cleanfed their faces from
all the oil and ochre with which they were ufually bedaubed. — In-
deed, the metamorphofis was of fuch a nature, as, on our firft entering
the houfe, to puzzle us a little in the recognition of our friends.
This circumftance afforded them coiifiderable entertainment, which was
followed by their rifing up and imitating our mode of falutation. Tlie
manner of taking off their hats, the curio. 3 geftures they fell into, in
fcraping and bowing to each other, with a few Englifli words which
they had acquired, and now repeated aloud, without connexion or
underftanding, compofed a fccne with which they were delighted, and
we could not be difpleafed. When thele good-humoured ceremonies wer«
over.
m a
- 1
i%
\
tfmit '
.d2L"^•
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 123
over, the chief ordered feveral very fine fea otter flcins to be produced !788.
before us, and afterwards fent on board the fhip; to which he added a ^"''**
very fine deer, that had been juft killed in the woods by one of
his people. We were not backward in making a fuitable prefent to Ma-
quilla; and, on our return to the (hip, we found that the otter-lkins had
preceded us.
The arrival of Comekela had infpired thefe people with a decided
preference fi)r the articles of European drefs ; — an hat, a (hoe, or a
flocking, would generally turn the balance of commercial negotiation
in our favour: — nor did we negled any motives in our power to
encourage a fancy which might promote the uie of woollens amongft
them.
On the 7th, a complauit was made by the cooper that his grindftone Saturaay 7
had been ftolen by the natives. — This was the firft aft of depredation
that we had fufFe-^*! ; — indeed the different (hips that had vlfited the
Sound before us are f.iid to have endured a fimilar lofs. We had obferved
that the attention of the people had been principally direded to this
ftone, being convinced that it contained fome peculiar charm, by which
it communicated, with fuch little trouble, fo (harp an edge to our iron ;
an operation which they found a matter of no common difficulty.
The lofs of this article was of fome importance ; and every means was
exerted to recover it, but in vain ; — even our application to Maquilla
was not attended with the ufualfuccefs. — It was, however, thought more
prudent to connive at the theft, than engage in a difpute with the
people; — we therefore contented ourfelves with ifl'uing ftriil orders that
none of the natives, except the chiefs, (liould, in future, be admitted
within the breaft-work that furrounded the houfe.
Q^ On
124
VO YAG E 8 TO THE
178S.
Jt'NB.
Sunday i
On the 8tli, A Aratige canoe with feveral people in it entered the cove, and,
coming alongfide the fliip, fold us a fmall number of fea otter ikins : — they
alio olTcrcd for fale an human hand, dried and (hrivelled up ; the fingers of
which were compleat, and the nails long; but our horror may be better
conceived than exprelled, when we faw a feal hanging from the ear of
one of the men in the canoe, which was known to have belonged to the
unfoitunate Mr. Millar, of the Imperial Eagle, whofe melancholy hiftory
was perfetflly well known to every one on board*. The failors fcarcely
hcTitated a moixicnt in exprefTuig their opinion that it muft have been tho
hand of Mr. Millar, and tliat the people before them were the murderers of
that olficer. This fufpicion would have caufed the certain death of our
vifitors, if it had not been fuggefted that the feal in queftion might have
been transferred, by a fucceiiion of barters, to tJje prefent pofleflbr. —
The being in poflclfion of the hand was, however, confidered as fo pre-
ponderating a circumftance, that it was no ealy matter to keep the
failors in due bounds ; and who, after all, could not he retrained from
driving thefe people away from the (hip, with every mark otinfult and
dcteftation. They proved, however, to be innocent of the crime of which
they had been fufpe«fled; as we were allured, the next day, by Ma-
quilla himfelf, on his own knowledge, that they had received the articles
which had occafioned fo much difguft to us, in the way of trade, from
the natives of Queen hy the, which was the very place where Mr. Millar
and his aflbciatcs had been murdered.— But the chief did not attempt to
* The Imperial Eagle was a fhip employed to colleft furs on the Coaft of America, in
the year 1787. In thecourfc of this bulinefs, tl»c Capuiti difpatclied bis long-boat fiotn
King George'i Sound, on a trading expedition as far as 47" North; ftie then anchored
a-brraft of a river, tlie Ihailows *t wlioi'c entrance prevented the long-boat from getting
into it. A fmall hoar, however, which was attaclicd to the other, was tnt up the river with
Mr. Millar, an officer of the Imperial Eagle, another young gentleman, and four fcamcn. —
They continued rowing till tlicv ca.nt- fo a village, where they were fuppofcJ to have been
feized and murdered by the natives, as their doalhs were aftcrwaids found Gained with blood.
deny
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
deny that the hand had belonged to one of our unhappy countrymen ;
and, from his manlfefl cnnfudon in converHng on this fubjedt, and va-
rious other concurring circumftances, which will be related hereaf-
ter, we were very much difpofed to believe that Maquilla himfelf was
a cannibal. There is, indeed, too much rcafon to apprehend that
the horrible traffic for human flefli extends, more »or Icfs, along tliis
part of the continent of America. Even our friend Callicum repofcd his
head, at night, upon a large bag, filled with human (kuUs, which he
flicwed as the trophies of his fuperior courage ; and it is more than
probable, that the bodies of the victims to which they belonged, had
furnifhed a banquet of vitftory for him, and the warriors that Hiared hi*
favage glory.
125
1788.
June.
On tlie fame day Wicananifh, a powerful chief to the Southward, at
whofe court Mnquilhi was vihting when we arrived in the Sound, came
to return the vilit, with two uar canoes, and the greater part of his nu-
merous fuite fuperbly drefl'ed in furs of the higheft eftimation. Thele
people were of a more thriving appearance than our friends at Nootka,
which aroff, probably, from their being fituated on a part of the coaft
where whales were in greater plenty ; — for this article, on which
much of the fuftenancc, and all their luxury depended, was beginning
to be fcarce in Nootka Sound. Wicananifli paid us a formal vifit on
board the Felice, and invited us to his place of refidcncc, with a promife
of great abundance of furs ; — but we could not, at prtfent, tempt him,
or any of his attendants, by any articles in our pofleflion, to part with
the beautiful dreffes which they wore.
On the loth, we obrerved a general commotion throughout the il- Tuefday >o
lage, and, in a flioi t time, as if by enchantment, the greater part of the
houfcs difappearcd. — When we went on fhore, Maquilla informed us that
5 1"»
126
1788.
Juki.
V O YAG ESTOTHE
his people were preparing to remove to a bay which was at the diftance of
about two miles from the Sound, on account of the great quantities of
fi(h which reforted thither, not only to procure a prefent (lock of whale
and other fifli, but to take the carlieft opportunity to prepare for their
winter's fubfiftence.
The manner in which the houfes of Nootka are conflruilcd, renders
the embarkations as well as debarkations a work of little time and ready
execution, fo tliat a large and populous village is entirely removed to a
diflrerent {Ration with as much cafe as any other water carriage. But a
more particular account of thcfe and (imilar circumftanccs relating to
the manners and cuAoms of thefe North Weftern Americans, will, as we
have before had occafion to obferve, be given in another part of this
volume.
' I
1 ,
*u
Several young fea otters were brought on board for fale, which found
no purchafers. One of them was brought alive ; the dams and all their
whelps had been killed by Maquilla, except this, which, however, had
met with fome very rough treatment, as one of its eyes had been evi-
dently forced out of its focket. It was very fmall, made a noife exadly
like a young child, and was the moft animated creature we had ever feen
among the brute race. — After keeping it a day or two, we threw it into
the fea, in order to let it efcape ; but, to our great furprize, we found
that it could neither dive or fwim, but continued flouncing about in the
water till we retook iron board, when it foon after died from the bruifcs
it had received. — This circumftance is, however, eafily accounted for,
as the dam of the fea otter is well known to carry its young ones on its
back till a certain period, when they have acquired both ftrengtli and
habit to take care of themfclves.
1p
1%
CHAP.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. XI.
127
1788.
June.
Ship prepares to put to Sea. — I'he Pinnace ftolen by the Natives. — ImpoJJtbUHj^
cf recovering her. — Some uneafinejfes on board the Ship. — Officers and Party
Intended to be left onjhore^ landed. — Provljtons made for equipping the New
Vejfel. — "the Safety of the Party confuIted.—Progrefs of the New Fejel.
— Health of the Crexv. — Supplies of FIJIj. — A formal Vlfit to Maqullla^
and Renewal of the 'Treaty^ &c.—He Is made acquainted with the probable
I'ime of the Iphigk'nia*s Arrival Requcjls a Letter for the Captain. —
Our Aflonljhment at his Knowledge, and by what Means It was obtained. —
Story of Mr. Mace ay. — Calllcum arrives from hunting the Sea Otter.—'
Articles which had belonged to Sir Jofeph Banks In his PoJfeJJlon. — T'he Ship
puts to Sea.— Plan of future Proceedings, &c, &c.
'l
ON the I ith of June, the weather being fine and moderate, the fhip Wednefdayn
was unmoored and towed by the boats out of Friendly Cove,
in order to put to fea : it had been our intention to have departed
on the 9th, but we fuffered an accident which very much diftreflcd
us : this was no lefs than the lofs of the Pinnace, a very large fine
boat, and the only one of the kind \vc h;ul. We were dil'pofed to be-
lieve at firft, that fhe broke adrift from the fhip in the niglit, in a guft of
wind, without being perceived by the watch ; — but in the morning flic was
not to be feen, and both boats and canoes were difpatchcd in fearch of
her, but to no purpofe of fuccef^. Large rewards were then offered to
the natives if they would reftore her, as, from a variety of circumftances,
we had no doubt but that (he was in their pofleflion. Maquilla and Cal-
J< licum
.11
(I
II ** "^ <I<W> *!■> ■
128
1788.
June.
V O YAG E S TO THE
licum both aflerted their innocence in the ftrongeft terms ; but it after-
wards appeared, as we fufpctfled, that tlie boat liad been ftolen and bro-
ken up for the fake of the iron and nails, which were afterwards dif-
perfed throughout the Sound,
.'f
This theft threatened, at firft, a rupture between us and the chief;
and while there were any hopes of producing t'^e reftoration of the
Pinnace, we affumed rather an appearance of refentment ; but when
we were convinced that the recovery of tlie boat was impradicablc,
we let the matter pafs over without any further buftle or diftnrbance.
Had we, indeed, proceeded to take any fteps towards a retaliation, it would
probably have occafioncd a breach between us and the chief of Nootka,
which miglit have been difadvantagcous to our commercial objefts in
general, and been attended with evident danger to the party we (hould
leave behind us. We therefore contented ourfelves with warning Ma-
quilla againft any depredations of a fimilar nature, and fufpending the
quarter- mafters from their ftations, as it was from their negleil that
this very diftreffing inconvenience proceeded.
There ftill continued to I'jrk amongft the crew thofe fvmptoms of
mutiny which had, at times, difcovcred itfclf in the early part of the
voyage ; thougli we had flartered ourfelves that it was entirely eradicated
previous to our arrival at Samboingan. The boatfwain had lately failed
in that rcfpeft to the officers which the duties of his Nation iiidifpen-
fably obliged him to obferve. But a proper degree of fpirit and exertion
cliecked fuch menacing conduct, and he was degraded from his Htuatiou
to the inferior duty before tlie mad. Another boatfwain was appointed
in his (lead, and the whole of this proceeding was entered in the
log-book.
On
!«♦«&«».■
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
On the day previous to our departure we landed the officers and party
who were to remain on fhore with the carpenters, in order to compleat
the veffel. Proper inftru£lions were left with the commanding officer,
Ihould the Felice fail in her propofed return, or any fatality happen
either to her or the Iphigenia, who was expeded in the Sound by the
latter end of the autumn. In cafe fuch an accumulated misfortune
(hould befal the expedition, we left every neceflary (lore to equip the
new veflel for fea, with f'.fficient provifions to carry her to the Sand-
wich Iflands, where flie would be able to obtain fufficient refrefhment to
enable her to proceed to China. It was but a neceflary duty to guard,
as well as we were able, againft every poffiblc calamity ; the (hip's com-
pany did not appear to feel any imprcfiions of an unfavourable omen, and
we left our friends on (liore with the moft chearing hopes of finding them
at our return, in a fituation of great advantage and comfort.
129
1788.
JVHI.
' fl
But, independent of the velTel, we hoped to reap very condderable be-
nefits from the parly on (here ; at leaft we had every reafon to expeft
that they would colleifl all the furs taken by the inhabitants of King
George's Sound during the fummer months, which we knew muft be
confiderable. We were, at all events, very certain that they would re-
main free from difturbance and moledation ; for befides a piece of cannon
mounted on the works, the little fort was well fupplied with arms and
ammunition ; and the garrifon, including the artificers, was fully fuffi-
cient to defend it againft any power that could be brought againft it.
The veflTel was in great forwardnefs, feveral of her floor timbers were
laid, and the armourers had prepared a large quantity of nails and bolts.
There was eftabli(hed, befides, a very convenient rope-walk, and we had
already begun to manufadure that elTential article. So that, if all the
circumftances of ercftinga comfortable and commodious houfe, ballafting
R and
t , ■ ' 1' I
\'
'}<>
f j
■ i ^
1788.
JVNI.
VOYAGES TO THE
<
nnd equipping the Felice for fea, and the laborious buHnefs of procuring
timber and preparing mnterials for the conftruAion of the new veilels,
with fome few neceflhry attentions to our commercial arrangements, be
confidered, the accufation of idlenefs or negligence, would be the lad
that the moft unrefleding injuftice could lay to our charge.
On our firft arrival in the Sound the country appeared moift, dreary,
and uncomfortable ; but we obferved very little fnow then on the ground,
and that little was quickly wafhed away by the heavy rains which fuc-
ceeded our arrival : — we found the air remarkably mild, and the frefh
greens and onions, which were in the greateft abundance, foon reilored
the invalids we had on board to a (late of perfect health.
Our fupplies of f\(h were constant and regular, and the natives never
failed to bring to daily fale as much of this article as they could fpare
from the demands of home confumption.
On the eve of our departure, a formal vifit was paid Maquilla, in order
to acquaint him that on the next day we propofed to leave the Sound.
We made him underftand that it would be three or four months before
our (hip would return, and about what time we fuppofed the veflTel on the
ftocks would be launched. They called the latter MamatUe or (hip, and
the former J^igbee MamatUe^ or great (hip. The chief was alfo rc-
queded to (hew every mark of attention and friendOiip to the party we
ihould leave on (hore ; and as a bribe to fecure his attachment, he was
promifed that when we (inally left the coaft, he (hould enter into full
pofleflion of the houfe and all the goods and chattels thereunto belonging.
As a proof of our immediate regard, he was prefented with a fuit of
cloaths covered with metal buttons, in his eyes of extraordinary eftima-
tion ; feveral prefeats were made to the ladies of his family ; and as we
were
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
were taking our leave, an old lady, the aunt of Comekela, whom we have
already defcribed at a mafs of age and filthinefs, requefted, in a very
earneft manner, to be indulged with a pair of buckles, which, immediately
on her receiving them, were hung in her ears with the fame pride that
European beauty feels in decorating its charms with the gems of India.
Maquilla, who Was glowing with delight nt the attentions we had
paid him, readily granted every requeft we thought proper to make, and
confirmed, with the ftrongeft aflurances of good faith, the treaty of
friend/hip which had been already entered into between us. He was
now alfo informed that another (hip was expected in the Sound, which
might probably arrive in our abfence, and that the Captain of this fliip
was our particular friend. On receiving this intelligence, he very much
aftoniflied us by demanding, without the lenfl helitation, that we would
leave a letter with him for our friend, the chief. We had not the leaft
idea that thefe people had the moft imperfeft notion of our polTeinng the
faculty of communicating our thoughts to each other on paper ; and
curiofity was inftantly awake to know by what means they could pof-
fibly have acquired fuch an article of information. It was, however,
foon fuggefled to us, that theie people obtained their knowledge from a
Mr. Maccay, who had remained, we believe, upwards of fourteen
months among them, duiing which time he had kept a journal, which
we have feen, and the circumftance of which cannot be pafTed over with-
out fome account of the buHnel's which occaiioned his being left to
nothing better than iavage life.
131
1788.
Juki.
if
.■4y '
1
4
1 '■ >-m
pi
i'X
I
The (hips Captain Cook and Experiment had been equipped under
the dire£tion of Mr. Scot, — whofe mercantile experience and fpirit
are acknowledged in Europe as well as in, India, — from Bombay
to America, for the purpofe of coUefting furs: — they arrived on the
R 2 coafl:
i'f W"
•''VI
f
1 1 1,
»wi«i»ii|luMi»Ji »-»^.r.;*'«»« — -
13*
1788.
JVNI.
Y O YAG E S T O TH E
coafl in the year 1 786, and left Mr. Maccay, the furgeon's mate on
board one of them, with his own entire confent and approbation, under
the protection of Maquilla. Mr. Strange, who had the fuperintendence
of thefe (hips, entertained nn opinion that very great commercial effeCls
might proceed from leaving Mr. Maccay with the natives of King
George's Sound, to learn their language, cuftoms and manners. He
was, therefore, accordingly left in the year 1786, and continued with
them till 1787, when he embarked fo; China on board the Imperial
Eagle.
Though this gentleman had been furniflied with cloaths anrfprovifion*
for his ftay at Nootka, he was reduced to the level of a favage, and we
hardly could conceive how it was poflible for an European co oHitution
to fupport itfelf with food averfe to its habits and its nature, — to live in.
every fpecies of filth, and fatisfy even hunger with train oil and bluboer.
But this was not all, — during Mr. Maccay's ftay, from the length and
feverity of the winter, a famine reigned at Nootka Sound : tlie ftock of
dried filh was expended, and no frclh fupplies of any kind was to be
caught ; fo that the natives were obliged to fubmit to a ftated allowance,,
and the chiefs brought every day to our countrymen, the ftated meal of
feven dried herrings heads. The perufal of this gentleman's journal
would ftiock any mind tin£lurcd with humanity. The favages, how-
ever, gave him a wife, and once or twice took him with them to-
feafts and dlftant parts; and we can vouch, whatever their condu£l: may
have been, that both the chiefs at Nootka and Wicananifti enquired con>
cerning his welfare as if they felt the afFedlion for him which they,
exprefted.
Maquilla was therefore indulged with a letter agreeable to his requeft ;
and we were not long in making the difcovery^ that a dread of the Iphi-
genia's
PJORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
genia's arrival would prove a ftronger prote£lion to our party, than .. I
the kindnefs we had bedowed on, and all the promifes which we had
received from him.
' i
178..
Callicum, who had been gone for fome time to hunt otters, was now
returned, and it gave us no little fatisfadlion that the chief on whom we
had the moft reliance, and who was the profeflcd prote£tor and patron
of our party, was come back to Nootka, previous to our departure from
it. The ufual tokens of friendfliip paffed between us ; but, in return
for the prefent we now made him, he furprifed us with three pieces of a
brafly metal formed like cricket bats, on which the remains of the name
and arms of Sir Jofeph Banks, and the date of the year 1775, were very
evident. On one of them the engraving was not Co much injured as to
prevent the whole of it from being very intelligible ; on the others,
part of thefe diftin>fl marks was worn out. But thefe tokens of regard
were returned to the amiable chief, to continue the remembrance of the
original donor of them, to whofe enterprifing and philofophic fpirit we
may be fiiid to be in a great meafure indebted for the difcovery of a
coaft, which, in fpite of every impediment, will, I truft, prove a fource
of beneficial commerce to our country.
r
» 1
(I!
\n
(4
iUi
On putting to fca, it was determined to trace the Southern part of
the coaft from King George's Sound, as the Iphigenia was to trace the
Northern part of it, from Cook's River to the fame place ; by which ar-
rangement the whole of the American continent from 60° to 45° North
would be explored, with various intermediate places which were not
examined by Captain Cook. We accordingly fet fall, after having given
repeated inftrudions to the party we left behind, to hold themfclves
continually on their guard againft the natives, — and to be extremely
attentive to preferve the moft perfeft harmony with the inhabitants of
Nootka Sound.
CHAP.
,i;'i
■ w
11
u
».u
V O YAO E S TO THE
i:88.
K'KI.
1. nB(
Hi
C H A P. XII.
Tbe chiefs Hanna an J Delootche vifit the Ship on her Way lo the Refidetue e/lVi-
cananijl\ tSc. — IVicanani/h arrives en boar J, and pilots the Ship into his Road-
Jfed. — J^umbers of the Inhabitants come off to the Ship. — T/!>e Face of the
Country and the Village of Wicananijh dcfcribed.—^Vifit paid to the Chief. —
Defer ipiion of his Houfe .—■'Their Ingenuity a SubjeR of jiflonifhment. — Im-
mtnfe Family oj iVicananifb.—His Opulence^ Riches^ and Mode of Feafiing, —
Prefents made to lVicananifl:. — The high Value fet on *tta-keitUs. — The
magnificent Return made to our Prefents. — ^he IVtves of Wtcananifh^ their
Beauty, with the Prefents made to them. — Urifk Trade carried on with the
Satives. — Refrejhments procured. — Trade with the Chief.-— Murder of a
Stranger by the People of the Village.— The Ship obliged by bad fVeather to
enter the inner Port^ named Port Cox.
Wfdnefdayii ^^>J thc iith of Juiic in thc evening, we were purfuing our courfe
^"^ to the South Eafl, at the diftaiice of three miles from the ftiore,
when, at funfet. Breaker's Point, which forms the Eaftern (here of the
entrance of King George's SountI, bore in the direction of North Weft
half Weft, and a point appeared ftretching to the Southward of Breaker's
Point, which obtained the name of Half-way Point, on account of its
being about midway between King George's Sound and the relldence of
Wicananifti. This point bore Eaft, and our diftance from the fliore
might be about three leagues. By a medium of feveral amjjlitudes and
azimuths, thc variation of the compafs was 31° 5' Eafterly.
We
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
»35
Wc continued our courfe till eleven o'clock, with the long-boat in tow, i 788.
when it was thought prudent to heave to tor tl»e night. At day-break
on the I 2th, we made fail, with the wind variable. At noon the obfcrvcd T'""f''»y ••
latitude was 49" %%' North, though we yet obfcrvcd Breaker's Point bearing
North Weft by North : and at the lame time faw an high mountain
over the entrance of Wicananilh, b;aring Eaft North Eaft, at the dif-
tance of feven leagues.
As we purfued our courfe, under an cafy fail, in order to examine the
coaA between our prcfent pofition and Kuig George's Sound, the wind
veered to the South Eaft by Eaft, and the weather became overcaft ; as
this wind was direiftly againft us, the fliip was tacked, and we ftuod out
to fea, being apprehenfive of bad weather, which we generally found to
attend the South Eaft winds. Our fears were foon and very fully con-
firmed, for the weather became fqually and violent. The top-fails were
clofe reefed ; and we continued ftanding to fea to procure an offing, the
moft important objefl of attention on this coaft. In the night it blew
very hard from the South Eaft, with an heavy fea, thick weather, and
conftant as well as violent rain. At midnight the fhip was wore, and
we ftood in for the land.
*■, iN
At day-break on the 13th, the weather, though it cleared away at Friday 13
times, had a very tempeftuous appearance; our diftance from the land
might be fix leagues, and the remarkable hill above Wicananifti appeared
\try plain in the form of a fugar loaf: it bore North Kaft by I'^aft fcvin
leagues. As we ftood in for the ihore, feveral canoes came off to us from
a clufter of iflands nearly abreaft of us, in moft of which there were up-
wards of twenty men, of a pleafing appearance and brawny form, chiefly
cloathed in otter (kins of great beauty. They paddled along with great
velocity, and after fome time, two of the boats came along-fide, and the
people
J'
f
f
n6
VOYAGES TO THE
1(1)
1788.
June.
people in them did not hcfitate to come on board. Amongft them there
were two chiefs, named Hanna and Detootche, who refided at a village
abreaft of the (hip. They were the handfomeft men we had feen : — Hanna
was about forty, and carried in his looks all the exterior marks of pleafimtry
and good humour ; Detootche was a young man, wJio to the beauty
of form, added the graces of manner ; and, as far as our penetration could
difcover, the better qualities of the mind. They appeared to be perfeftly
at ea(e in our fociety, fliook every perfon on board by the hand, and
gave us very friendly invitations to receive the hofpitality of their terri-
tory. They were extremely prefTuig that the fhip (hould go in among
the iflands.
»^ •
But as we had prcdetcrmii;cd to fcek out the refidence of Wicananiih,
which we were inflruded was not far from King George's Sound, we
kept ftanding with that view towards the iflands, which, as we ap-
proached, appeared to be low and woody, but we could perceive no
praSicable channel between them. Hanna and Detootche, to whom we
had made fome trifling prefents, now took their leave and paddkd on
Ihore.
1'^
i A
i>
About noon the weather broke up, and the wind veered to the North-
ward of Eaft, with which we flood along the (hore to enter between this
range of iflands and the main ; wlien we perceived another fmall fleet t)f
canoes approaching us, in the foremoft of which we faw Wicananifli,
who, in a fliort time came on board, and undertook to pilot us himfelf
into his harbour, the entrance of which, as he pointed it out to us, was
at thediflance of about five miles.
li^
Boats were now fent a-head to found, and we followed, under an eafy
fail ; when, after rounding the extremity of the Southernmoft ifland,
1 we
•:::::5B—
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
»3;
we entered the roadftcd, paffiiig between feveral reefs of rocks. Oiir 1788,
foundings were very regular ; and, about one o'clock, we anchored be-
tween the mauii and the iflands, being pretty well Iheltered from the
fea. Wicananifli proved an excellent pilot, and was not only indefati-
gable in his own exertions, but equally attentive to the condutSt of his
canoes, hi their attendance upon us.
This roadftcd bore the wildeft appearance that can be conceived,
and was defended from the fea by feveral fmall iflcts and reefs, whicli
nearly conne£led them. The port we obferved was fituated about two
miles from the anchoring ground we occupied, the entrance of which
did not appear to be more than two cables length in breadth.
Abreaft of the fhip, on one of the iflands, we perceived a village almoft
thrice as large as that of Nootka ; from every part of which we now
law the people launching their canoes, and coming olV in fhoals to the
(hip, laden with fifli, wild onions, and berries, which they difpofcd of
to the (iiilors for fmall bits of iron, and other articles of fimilar attrac-
tion. WicananiHi was entertained during the greater part of the day
on board, with feveral of his friends, and at night returned to the fhorc,
followed by a long train of natives, who had waited to attend him.
The very fine weather on the 14th, gave us an opportunity toobfervc SatiuJ.iy u
the face of the country, which appeared on all iides to be an impene-
trable foreft, without any Intervals of a clear country. The village of
Wicananifli ftands on a rifing bank near the fea, and is backed by the
woods. In confequence of a meffage from the chief to ii'vite us to a feall
at his houfe, we landed about noon, when \vc were met by a large ciowd
of women and children, and conducted by the brother of Wicananiih to
the place of entertainment.
S Oil
V ''I
11
i>
;r
h li''
138
f
1788.
June.
VOYAGES TO THE
On entering the houfe, we were abfolutely aftoniflied at the vaft area
it enclofed. It contained a large fquarc, boarded up clofe on all fides to
the height of twenty feet, with planks of an uncommon breadth and
length. Three enormous trees, rudely carved and painted, formed the
rafters, which were fupported at the ends and in the middle by gigantic
images, carved out of huge blocks of timber. The fame kind, of broad,
planks covered the whole to keep out the rain ; but they were fo placed as
to be removed at pleafure, either to receive the air and light, or let out the
fmokc. lathe middle of this fpacious room were feveral fires, and befide
them large wooden veflels filled with fifli foup. Large dices of whale's
flefli lay in a ftate of preparation to be put in fimilar machines filled with
water, into w^hich the women, with a kind of tongs, conveyed hot
ftones from very fierce fires, in order to make it boil : — heaps of fifli
were ftrewed about, and in this central part of the place, which might
very properly be called the kitchen, ftood large feal-ikins filled with oil-,,
from whence the guefts were ferved with that delicious beverage..
I ill
The trees that fupported the roof were of a fize which would render
the maft of a firft-rate man of war diminutive, on a comparifon with
them ; indeed our euriofity as well as our aftoniflimcnt was on its utmoft
ftretch, when we confidered the ftrength that muft be neceflary to raife
thefe enormous beams to their prefent elevation ; and how fuch ftrength
could be found by a people wholly unacquainted with mechanic pow-
ers. The door by which we entered this extraordinary fabric, was the
mouth of one of thefe huge images, which, large as it may be fuppofed,
was not difproportioned to the other features of this monftrous vifage.
We afcended by a few fteps on the outfide, and after paffing this extra,
ordinary kind of portal, defcended down the chin into the houfe, where
we found new matter for aftonifhment in the number of men, women,
and children, who compofed the family of the chief; which confifted of
.1 «.
\ !
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
i\t leaft eight hundred perfons. Thefe were divided into groupes, ac-
cording to their refpedlive offices, which had their diftln£t places afligned
them. The whole of the building was furrounded by a bench, about
two feet from the ground, on which the various inhabitants fat, eat and
flept. The chief appeared at the upper end of the room, furrounded by
natives of rank, on a fmall raifed platform, round which were placed fe-
vtTal large chefts, over which hung bladders of oil, large dices of
whale's flcfli, and proportionable gobbets of blubber. Feftoons of hu-
man fculls, arranged with fome attention to uniformity, were difpofed
in almoft every part where they could be placed, and were conddered
as a very fplendid decoration of the royal apartment.
When we appeared, the gucfts had made a confiderable advance
in their banquet. Before each pcrfon was placed a large (lice of
boiled whale, which, with fmall wooden diflies, filled with oil and fifli
foup, and a large mufcle-fliell, by way offpoon, compofed the economy
of the table. The fervants were bufily employed in preparing to re-
plenifh the feveral diflies as they were emptied, and the women
in picking and opening the bark of a tree which ferved the purpofo
of towels. If the luxury of this entertainment is to be determined
by the vr acioufnefs with which it was eaten, and the quantity that
was fwallowed, we muft confider it as the moft luxurious feaft we had
ever beheld. Even the children, and fome of them were not more than
three years old, poflefled the fame rapacious appetite for oil and blubber
as their fathers. The women, however, are forbidden from eating at
thefe ceremonials.
'39
1788.
June.
M
1^ m
i .Hiii
i
Wicananifti, with an air of hofpitality which would have graced a more
cultivated fociety, met us half way from the entrance, and conducflcd us
to a feat near his own, on which we placed ourfelves, and indulged our
S 2 curlofity
\
MO
VOYAGES TO THE
'V
i, H s;
1 788. cuilofity during the remainder of die banquet, iu viewing the perfpeAive
^'""' of this fmgular habitation.
The fcaft being ended, \vc were defired to (hew the prefents which
were intended for the chief: — a great variety of articles, brought for that
purpofe, were accordingly difplayed, among which were feveral blankets
and two copper tea kettles. The eyes of the whole aflembly were rivetted
on thcfe unufual objc(fls, and a guardian was immediately affigned to the
two tea-kettles, who, on account of their extraordinary value and beauty,
was ordered to place them with great care in the royal coffers, which
confifled of large cherts rudely carved, and fancifully adorned with human
teeth.
About fifty men now advanced in the middle of the area, each of them
holding up before us a fea otter Ikin of near fix feet iu length, and the
moft jetty blacknefs. As they remained in this pofturc, the chief made
a fpeech, and giving his hand in token of friendfliip, informed us that
thcfe (kins were the return he propofed to make for our prefent, and ac-
cordingly ordered them to be immediately fent to the fliip.
Our royal hoft appeared to be entirely fatisfied with our homage ; and
we, who were equally pleafed with his magnificence, were about to take
our leave, when the ladies of his family advanced towards us, from a
diftant part of the building, whither they had retired during the enter-
tainment. Two of them had pafled the middle age, but the other two
were young, and the beauty of their countenances was fo powerful as to
predominate over the oil and red ochre which, in a great meafure, covered
them. One of the latter, in particular, difplayed fo fweet an air of diffi-
dence and modefty, that no difguft of colour, or deformity of drefs, could
preclude her from awakening an interefl even in miuds cultured to refine.
ment.
$
J'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 141
ment. We had not, very fortunately, difpofed of all the treafure we had 1788.
brought on Ihorr, and a few beads and ear-rings that yet remained, ferved ^"'""
to give our vifit a concluding grace, by prcfenting them to thefe ladies
of the court.
We continued till the 17th, carrying on a very briflc trade with the TuefJay 17
natives. The chief generally paid us a vifit every day, and we lived on
the moft friendly terms with him and tlie whole village. The natives
brought us abundance of fifh of various kinds. The fahnon and falmon-
trout was of the beft flavour, and we generally received cod, halibut,
rock-fifli, and herrings frifli from the fea ; wliile the women and clil!-
dren fold us cray-filh, berries, wild onions, fallads, and other cfculent
plants ;— an occafional piece of venifon alfo heightened the luxury of our
table.
On the I 7th, Wicananifh requeftcd our attendance on fhorc to engaj^c
in a barter for furs. On our landing, we were condmfted, as before, to
his houfe, where we found the number of his family to be rather en-
creafed than dimini(hcd. No form or ceremony, liowever, was now
employed ; the whole family fecmcd to enjoy a fociable intcrcourfe
with each other ; the women were permitted to eat with the men, and
greatly to our f;itisfa£lion, tlie whole company appeared with the famili-
arity of uiibefmeared faces, fo that we Iwd an opportunity of examining
the coinclin-'ls of one fex, ai:d the beauty of the other. This circum-
ftance led v.c to infer, that thefe people employ paint only on days of
feftivity and ceremony.
The fea otter ikins and other furs were now produced to tiie number
of t'lirry, and of the moft beautiful kind ; which, after a confiderablc
deal ot ntgotidtiou, we at length purchaled ; for wc ibund to our coft,
that
1;
iPf^"-
-^^^Vfcfc
t4»
1788.
JVNI.
V O YAG E S TO T HIE.
that thefe people, like thofe of Nootka, poflefTed all the cunning necefTatj
to the gains of mercantile life. The fame rage for prefents prevailed
here, as in the Sound ; and even the ladies would interfere in making a
bargain, and retard the concludonof it, till they had been gratified with
an added offering.
Juft as we were going to embark, there was a fudden and univerfal
confufion throughout the village ; a confiderable number of canoes were
inflantly filled with armed men, and being launched in a moment, were
paddled to the fhip. At firft we were apprehenfive that fome broil had
taken place between the natives and the crew ; but we were foon fiitisfied
that a matter of political jealoufy, refpedling Ibme of their neighbours,
was the caufe of this fudden commotion. Some flrangers having ven-
tured to vifit the (hip without the knowledge of Wicananilh, the chief
had ordered his people to fall upon the intruders, one of whom they liad
now feized and brought on ftiore. We are forry to add, that this
unfortunate man was immediately hurried into the woods, where we
have every reafon to apprehend that he was quickly murdered. We made
the moft earneft interceflion in his behalf, and even proceeded to threats
on the occafion ; but while we were employed in the office of mercy,
they, we fear, were enjoying the barbarity of revenge. This event
ftrcngthened our opinion, that however mild and friendly the behaviour
of thefe people might be to us, perhaps under the influence of fear, they
were fierce and cruel to each other. Indeed it had been very generally
obferved by us all, that at times, their countenances told a very plain tals
of afavage mind.
Friday JO The Weather was very bad till the 20th, it blowing an hnrd gale of
wind from the South Eaft, with continual rain. At times, alfo, an
heavy fwell rolled in upon us, which rendered our fituation very un-
pleafdnt.
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4
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
pleafant* It was therefore determined that we (hould embrace the firft
favourable moment to get into the inner port, which had been already
furveyed, and was found to be not only convenient, but entirely de«
fended from the winds.
V •> \ ♦> 'V ' v «\ •
In the evening it moderated, when the fliip was got under fail, which
was no (boner obferved by Wicananifli than he came on board, and fafely
piloted us into the harbour, which we named Port Cox, in honour of
our friend John Henry Cox, £fq. — But not chufing to truft entirely to
theikill of the chief on the occalion, the boacs were fcnt a-head to found,
particularly on the bar; on which wc had three and an half and four
fathoms, and foon after deepened our water to thirteen, fourteen and
fifteen fathoms. It then decreafed to eight, in which depth we dropped
our anchor in a fafe and fecure harbour.
'.\ , /
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CHAP.
»4|.
1788.
JUNt.
1
\ .ifl
I
11
iri
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1
144
VOYAGES TO THF.
1788.
■I
)
r
C FI A P. XIII.
7/-e People of If' Icananilh Ufi chilizcd thanthofe at Nooth.-~Cerfain)icc:i^tir\
Vrecaut'ton's give offence to, and occajion a Coolnefs between us and the ChieJ.
— Good Vnderfanding rejlored, and the Treaty of Frkndpip renewed. —
Reciprocal Prefents pafs on the OccaJion.—'The Ufe of Fire arms known to
theje People. — The Vdlage removes to a fnall Dijlance. — Treaty between
■ IJ'ieanani/l:, Hunna and Detootche.— Prefents on the Occafion Good
Confcquences rcfulting to us from the Treaty. — Prefents made to and received
from Wic.manif.—Prtfent arrives from King George's Sr,und, ^c.—Pre-
fa'-e for Sea. — The Felice pr creeds on her Foyage. — Defcription of Port
Ccx, Sf. isc.
ON the firfl: view, the fubjc£l:s of this chief appeared to be far lefs
civilized than our friends at Nootka ; we therefore proportionably
encreafcd our precautions. — Their numbers were very confiJcrable, and
the boldnefs they difcovercd in all their tranf.iflions with us, gave us
reafon to believe, tliu any relaxation of our vigilance might tempt them
to a condu£l which would produce difagrceable confcquences to us all.
Befides, both in f.igaclty, as well as aiflivity, they were very fuperior to
the inhabitants of King George's Sound.— Wicananifh, himfelf, though
rather inclined to be corpulent, was athletic and adive ; — his brothers,
pofleffed the fame advantages ; and all the young men were robuft, in a
continual ftate of excrcife, and enured to conftant labour. We ob-
ferved, that the moft tempeftuous weather never prevented them from
going tofea, to ftrike the whale or kill the otter: — fifliing was an occu-
5 pation
\i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
pation which was followed only by the inferior clafTes of the people. — The
dominiotis of this chief were very extenfive, and the numerous tribes who
acknowledged his dominion, rendered him a very powerful fovereign.
We, therefore, had fufficient renfon to remain in a ftate of preparation
againft the poUibility of that mifchief which it was in his power to do
us, nnd which opportunity miglu tempt him to employ.
»45
1788.
JUNI.
This vigilance on our part, which was confidered by the chief as dif-
truft in his fricndfliip, gave him great offence, and occationed a fliort
coolnefs between us. — On tiie zirt, Wicananifli obferved that whenever SunJ*y >•
lie paid us a vifit the great cabin was decorated with arms, and that fe-
veral blunderbufles, &c. were placed on the deck ; and not only left
the fliip in great anger, but refuled to trade with us himfelf, and for-
bade his people from bringing us any fupplies of fifli or vegetables.— It
was not, however, by any means, our intereft that things fliould remain in
this unpleafant, as well as inconvenient fituation ; it was therefore thought
prudtnt to pay him a vifit of peace on the following day ; when, by the Mond«yn
conciliating prefent of a fword, with a brafs handle, and a large copper
difli, the treaty of friendlhip was renewed ; and this reftoration of good
humour was confirmed by a prefent of five beautiful otter Ikins, a fat
d9e, and a fupply of fifli for the crew. The generofity, as well as
friendly conduft of the chief, on this occafion, feemed to demand an
extraordinary exertion of acknowledgment on ours ; and we made him
happy beyond expreflion, by adding to his regalia a piftol and two charges
of powder ; a prefent which he had long folicited. Indeed the ufe of
fire-arms was known to this tribe previous to our arrival among them —
When the Refolution and the Difcovcry firft entered King George's
Sound, Wicananifli happened to be there, on a vifit to Maquilla, and
then acq^uired this unfufpeded branch of knowledge.
T On
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1788.
JUNC.
II
VOYAGES TO THE
On the 28th, wc obfervcd that the whole village remored from their
cli>rc vicinity to the fca, into the inner port, with the fame eafy transfer
whicli we had obfcrved on a fiinllar occafion, at Nootka, and took up
thtlr new pofition about a mile from the fhip, on a point of land, juft
within the entrance of the iiarbour.
We were now formally made acquainted by Wicananilh, that a treaty
was negotiating between the chiefs Hanna and IXtootche and himfelf, in
which we were to be included ; the fubftancc of which was, — that all the
furs then in thiir poffeflion fliould be fold to Wlcananifh ; — that they
ihould live in peace and friendfliip with us ; — that all the otter (kins pro-
cured after the completion of the treaty, by either of the contradling
chiefs, or their people, (hould be difpofcd of by themfclves, and that
they were all to liave common accefs to the fhip, where a fair and equi-
table market was to be opened for them without diftin^Jtion.
From the jcaloufy which we already knew to fubfift between thefe
chiefs, we were pcrfedly fatisficd, as we fince had convincing proofs,
that, on our entering the territories of Wicai .inifli, neither Hanna or
Detootche would be permitted to trade with, or even pay us a vifit with-
out having obtained a previ.^us permiflion for that purpofe. VVc had
not therefore urged or encouraged an intercourfe, which, though it
would have been very advantageous to us, might, and moft probably
would have brought on a war between the refpeifVive fovereigns. This
treaty, therefore, gave us that extenfion of commerce which we fomuch
wilhed, in the regular courfe of friendly negotiation, and we were not
backward in forwarding the completion of it.
This treaty, which was managed with all the addrefs of refined policy,
could not be arranged according to the propofed conditions, without an in-
trufion
Hi?
-a,.. -~— »«i-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
trufion on the trcafurcsof VVicauaniih, to wliith he knew not how to fub-
mit 5 and this was no Icfs than a dcmaml of the copper tca.kcttles he fo
highly vahicd : but as the cefllon of them was made tlic governing article
of the negotiation, they were at length, though rcludlantly, configncd to
Hanna and Detootche, who immediately gave up all the otter Ikins in their
poflcHion. But the chief did not long remain without being fully futisfied
by us for the lofs of his favourite vcflels, by our prefcntiug him with Aich
articles as would make him ample reparation, and which he, probablv,
had in view when he made fuch a facrifice. We therefore, among other
things, fcledled fix brafs hiltcd fwords, a pair of piftols, and a mulket,
with feveral charges of powder ; and wc would even have replaced the
treafures with which his cofFcrs had been fo lately enriched, but not a
a fingle kettle was to be found in the fliip. This prefcnt was fcnt on
fliorc, and, including the returns to it, wc had now procured an hundred
and fifty fine otter Ikins.
At this time a canoe very unexpc£lcdly arrived from King George's
Sound, with a prefent of fifli from Maquilla, who had been made ac-
quainted with all our motions, from the time wc left his territories.
By the fame opportunity wc had the pleafurc of heariag that our party
were well, and continued to make fpecdy advances tov.ards the comple-
tion of the veflel : as one of the people, who was rather more intelligent
than the reft, by mcafuring a certain number of fpans, contrived to in-
form us of the adlual ft?te of the little mamatlee, as he called her ;— by
which we underftood that her floor-timbers were laid.
The objeft of our touching at this port being now fulfilled, by having
procured all the furs in the poffellion of Wicananifli, with fome confiderable
fupplies of the fame kind, from Hanna and Detootche, we now prepared to
put tofea, to explore the coaft to the Southward of this port. On the 28th,
T 3 the
'47
1788.
JUMU.
-k \
^:«(
148
1788.
JUME..
VOYAGESTOTHE
the ffiip was warped out of the inner harbour over the bar, and, in the
evening, the roadded was cleared ; when we purfued. our courfe along
fhore, with a light wefterly breeze and fine weather.
The harbour of Wicananifli affords very fecure fhelter, with good
anchorage, both in the roads and the inner port. An archipelago of
iflands feems to extend from King George's Sound to this place, and ftill
further to the Southward. The channels between thefe iflands are in-
numerable ; but the necefl'ary occupations of the fliip would not allow us
time to fend out boats for thepurpofe of examining them : — as far, how«
ever, as our obfervation extended, we are difpofed to believe that there
is no channel for fliips but that which we entered, and wliich is an ex?
ceeding good one.
Thefe iflands are covered thick with wood, with but very few clear
fpots, at leaft that we could difcern. The foil is rich, producing wild
berries, and other fruit in great abundance. The timber is of uncommon
fize, as well as beauty, and applicable to any purpofe : — we faw fre-
quent groves, almoft every tree of which was fit for mafls of any di«
menfions. Among a great variety of other trees we obferved the red oak»
the larch, the cedar, and black and white fpruce fir.
In all our commercial tranfa£Hons with thefe people, wewerc, mora
or lefs, the dupes of their cunning :_ and with fuch peculiar artifice did
they fometimes condu£l themfelves, that all the precaution we could
employ, was not fufficient to prevent our being overreached by them.
The women, in particular, would play us a thoufand tricks, and treat
the difcovery of their finefle with an arch kind of pleafantry that baffled
reproach. — They were very fuperior in perfonal charms to the ladies of
Nootka, and pofTefled a degree of modefly which is not often to be
1 found
^ )
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
»49
found among the favage nations, — No entreaty or temptation in our 1788.
power could prevail on them to venture ou board the Aiip. But their
beauty was deftroyed by the filthy application of oil and ochre, and
a general inattention to that cleanlinefs which Europeans confider as
eff.'V;.' ■) female charms. We had an opportunity of feeing an in-
ftance of their delicacy, which, from its fingularity, may not be thought
unworthy of a relation. Among other vifitors of the (hip, we were
one day very much furprlfed by the appearance of a canoe paddled along
by women, and containing about twenty of that fex, without a fingle
perfon of the other. As we had never feen a canoe fo freighted before,
it very much engaged our attention ; and, while we were contemplating
this company of ladies, a young man leaped fuddenly among them from
another canoe ; at which they were fo alarmed, that, though they were
clad in their beft array, they all threw themfclves, in an inftant, into
the fea, and fwam in a body to the Ihore.
The people of Wicananlfli are alfo very fuperior in point of induftry
and adivity to thofc of King George's Sound. At break of day, without
regard to the weather, the village was always empty; the men were
employed hi killing the whale, hunting the fea otter, or cp.tching fifh,
and the women were in the woods, gathering berries, or traverllng the
fands and rocks in fearch of cray and IhcU-fifii.
During our ftay liere, many ftrangers arrived from the Southern part
of the coaft, on purpofe to vifit us • but they were not only forbidden to
trade, but to have any communication with us ; to which regulation we
thought it prudent to fubmit. Thefe vifits were very beneficial to Wi-
cananifh, and raifed his importance with us, as we found that all thefe
people, coming from various and diftant diftrids, were fubjefl: to his
power.
k
I'
^. ^
Ui"i aa, 'I
150
1788.
June.
VOYAGES TO THE '
power. Befides the two villages already mentioned, he had fevcral other
plnces of refidence, to which he occafionally refoited, according to the
feafon of the year, the calls ofneceflity, or the invitations ofpleafure.
In one of thefe places we reckoned twenty-fix 'houfes, each of which were
capable of containing an hundred inhabitants. In ftiort, fuch was the
power and extcnfivc territory of Wicananifti, that it was very much our
intercft to conciliate his regard and cultivate his friendfhip.
mi
i>„
CHAP.
\ ;
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. XIV.
»5«
178a.
Juki.
Purfue our Courfe to the Southward along the Coaji. —Numerous Viltages-
feated on the Shore. ^fhe Inhabitants come off to the Ship, and their Difap'
pjintment at our not coming to an Anchor. — Difcover the Straits of Juan de
Fuca. — Their Extent and Situation.-^'The Natives ccme off to the Ship. —
T'atootchc comes on board. — A Defer ipt ion of him. — Long-boat difpatched to
find an Anchorage , and its Return. — Bad Behaviour of the Natives. — Pur-
fue our Courfe along the CoaJi. — Short Account of the Straits (f Juan de
Fuca, — Jfland of Tatootchc paffed. — Natives come off to the Ship, (Sc. —
Pafs numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coafl. — Violence of the South Eajl
Storms. — Cape Flattery.— Village of Clqffett. — Ship enters the Bay of
^ecnhithe. — Savage Appearance of the Place. — Seethe Village of ^leeneute II.
— Dejiruiiion IJle. — Danger of the Ship, &c. ^c
W 7 E now left Wicananilh, and during the night of the 28th we
' ^ fleered Eaft South Baft, within three leagues of the land ; and
on the morning of the 2<jth, we found ourfclves a-brcaft of a large Sound, sumi,i) z.j
from whence we faw a number of canoes coming out to meet us.
The catioes very foon paddled up to us, and fome of the people cam«
on board. They informed us that there were feveral villages in the
Sound, but all under the jurifdidioii of VVicananifh.— As we had reafoii
to believe that, the chief had drawn all the furs from this place, we de-
termined to avail ourfelves of the prefent fiivourable feafon, to proceed
5 to
1
fil 'W
J
»»v--.
•^-r
«5*
P
1788.
JVMI,
VOYAGESTOTHE
to the Southward, aiul to call at this place on our return. The natives
employed their iitmoft perfuafions to keep us fometime on their coaft,
but on obferviiig that the fhip was fleering its courfe beyond their vil-
lages, they took their leave of us with very evident marks of chagrin
and difappointment. ■ .'. *
We purfued thecovirfe to Eaft South Eaft, along the fliore, at the dif-
tance of three miles, having crofled the mouth of the Sound, which we
obferved to be of no great depth. At noon the latitude was 48° 39'
North, at which time we had a complete view of an inlet, whofe en-
trance appeared very extenfive, bearing Eaft South Eaft, dlftant about
fix leagues. We endeavoured to keep in with the Ihore as much as pof-
fible, in order to have a perfcft view of the land. This was an objeft
of particular anxiety, as the part of the coaft along which we were now
failing, had not been feen by Captain Cook ; and we knew of no other
navigator fald to have been this way, except Maurclle ; and his chart,
which we now had on board, convinced us that he had either never
feeh this part of the coaft, or that he had purpofely mifreprefented it.
As we continued our courfe along the land, we perceived frequent vil-
lages on the ftjore, from whence we were vifited by canoes filled with
people, who in their perfons and manners very much refembled thofe
of Port Cox. The different villages were individually anxious to keep the
commerceof the (hip to themfclves, and that we fhould come to an anchor
off their refpedlve habitations ; but as the entire coaft was open to the
fea, even if we had been inclined to Indulge their requeft, it would not
have been in our power. We, however, purchafcd feveral fea otter
(kins of them, and proceeded on our courfe.
\)
■>.iiii ■ ini
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
By three o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at the entrance of the
great inlet already mentioned, which appeared to be twelve or fourteen
leagues broad. . From the maft-head it was obferved to ftretch to the
Eafl by North, and a clear and unbounded horizon was feen in this di>
region as far as the eye could reach. We frequently founded, but could
procure no ground with one hundred fathoms of line. About five o'clock
we hove to ofFa fmall ifland, fituated about two miles from the Southern
land, that formed the entrance of this ftrair, near which we faw a
very remarkable rock, that wore the form of an obeliik, and flood at
fome diflance from the ifland.
»53
1788.
Jvire.
«,
In a very Ihort time we were furrounded by canoes filled with
people of a much more favage appearance than any we had hitherto
feen. They were principally cloathed in fea otter fkins, and had their
faces grimly bedaubed with oil and black and red ochre. Their canoes
were large, and held from twenty to thirty men, who were armed with
bows, and arrows barbed with bone, that was ragged at the points, and
with large fpears pointed with mufcle-fliell.
We now made fail to clofe in with this ifland, when we again hove
to about two miles from the fliore. The ifland itfelf appeared to be a
barren rock, almoft inacceflible, and of no great extent ; but the furface
of it, as far as we could fee, was covered with inhabitants, who were
gazing at the fliip. We could by no means reconcile the wild and un-
cultivated appearance of the place, with fuch a flourifliing ftate of
population.
Thechiefof this fpot, whofe name is Tatootche, did us the favour
of a vifit, and fo furly and forbidding a charafter we had not yet feen.
U His
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»54
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1788.
JVMI.
V O YAG E S T O T H E
His face had no variety of colour on it, like the reft of the people, but
was entirely black, and covered with a glittering faiid, which added to
the favage Hercenefs of his appearance. lie informed us that the power
of VVicanani(h ended here, and that we were now within the limits of
his government, which extended a confiderahle way to the Southward.—
On receiving this information, we made him a fmall prefent, but he did
not make us the leaft return, nor could he be perfuaded to let his peo-
ple trade with us. We had, indeed, already received fome account of
this chief from Wicananifti, who advifed us to be on our guard againfl
him and his people, as a fubtle and barbarous nation.
It was our design, if poflible, to caft anchor here, and, with this
view, the long-boat was manned and armed, and fent under the direc-
tion of a proper officer, to found between the ifland and the main, in
order to find an anchoring-ground. The ftrongeft injunctions were given
to avoid, if poflible, any dlfpute with the natives, and a fmall portion
of trading articles was put in the boat, in cafe the natives fliould be
inclined to barter. ' '
After the departure of the long-boat for the fliore, which was followed
by all the canoes, we kept tacking occafionally near the ifland, which
we had now an opportunity of examining with fome degree of minute*
nefs ; and, in whatever diredion we beheld it, it appeared to be a barren
rock, furrounded with reefs, on which the fea broke with great fury.
We, however, had fome hope that, between it and the main, a place of
Ihelter and fecurity might be found, as the fituation would have been
very convenient, not only for the purpofe of exploring the ftrait, but
alfo for the extenfion of our particular commerce.
About
¥
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
About fevcn in the evening, the long-boat returned without having
found any place fit for anchorage, and having procured but 'i^ry few
furs. The ifland, as the oflficcr informed us, was not of a deceitful ap-
pearance ; it was a folid rock, covered with a little verdure, and furrounded
by breakers in every direction. A great crowd of canoes came off to the
boat, filled with armed people, who behaved in a very dilbrderly man-
ner; feveral of whom jumped into the boat, and took fome trifling arti-
cles away by force, and then triumphed in their theft. Our people
were highly enraged at this condud, and fully difpofed to retaliate; —
but the prudence of the officer kept them quiet, who, bting fearful of
fbme unpleafant event, had no fuoner made the necefl'ary examination^
than he returned on board.
»55
1788.
J f N r .
I
*vl
. We were perfe£lly convinced tiiat Wicananifli had drawn from this
chief a confiderable quantity of his furs, as we obferved many of our
articles about them, which they could not have obtained but from Port
Cox or King George's Sound. One of the natives in particular was in
polTenion of a complete fet of coat buttons, which was very fiimillar to
the memory of us all.
Being thus difappointed in obtaining an harbour here, we continued
our courfe to the Southward, and examined the coaft with great attention,
in expectation of finding a place of fecurity, from whence our boats would
be enabled not only to examine this ftralt, but other confiderable por-
tions of the coaft. With this view we made fail about eight in the
evening, and ftood along the (hore, with pleafant and moderate weather.
The ftrongeft curiofity impelled us to enter this ftrait, which we fliall
call by the name of its original difcoverer, John De Fuca.
Ua
Some
"~*^*^ 41 inW*
— * )t^* Ji'^'rft^'*^'*-
rj\<i*--'$timmtm)*if(%:-\^i»-
11
u
h
m
156 VOYAGES TO THE
1788. Some accounts of the (traits of John dc Fuca are handed down to us
jiNii. from the very refpedlable authority of Hakluyt and Purchas : the for-
mer of whom records the opinion which the miniflers of Queen Eliza*
beth entertained of its importance. We had now ocular demonftration
of its exiftenccj — and we are perfuadcd, that if Captain Cook had feen
this ftrait, he would have thought it worthy of farther examination.'—
The circumftances which put it out of our power to gratify the ardent
dciire we pofl'efled of executing fuch a defign, will be faithfully related,
as we puiiiie the narrative of the voyage.— ^A more particular detail of
this remarkable inlet may already have been favoured by the reader's
attention, in the introduftory memoir which treats of the yet probable
exiftencc of a North Weft paflage.
^r«nday3^ In the morning of the 30th of June, we had made no great progrefa
from the land, as it was calm during the greater part of the night. —
The ifland of Tatootche bore nearly South Eaft, diftant only three
leagues. About ten o'clock a grear number of canoes came from the
ifland, in- which there could not be lefs than four hundred men, among
whom we obferved the chief himfe If. They amufed themfelves in pad-
dling round the ftiip, every part of which, but particularly the head,
they feemed to uehold with extreme admiration : indeed, it is more than
probable that the greateft part of them had never feen fuch a veflel be-
fore. We had been already fo much difpleafed by the condu£b of the
chief, that we did not think proper to invite him on board. The party,
however, gave us a fong, which did not differ much from that we heard
in King George's Sound. But offended as we might be with the peo-
ple, we could not but be charmed by their mufic. Situated as we
were, on a wild and unfrequented coaft, in a diftant corner of the globe,
far removed from all ihofe friends, connexions, and circumftances
which form the charm and comfort of life, and taking our courfe, as it
were.
'I'
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.ner of whom rfc
Utii enfertnhntl \.
th\i iV.i
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)ji the vrrv )'erT'>».'^''V i ,ry--ii"Mr of WLktuyt ^UJtS
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rii the n-ortnn;^ of the ^.nh n^-'jlutw, w i Eii '/Wx
\\r (|<t*nii>nArati''ii
1 iSii'Mation-^
itbf anient
t\^^v frintctj,
frocn the lar.a, us it r/ati cctlin du»iji»^ tlw ^loalrr pa \of t^ u-gifcc.- •
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4.,
«?it';'-"'t -''^v, .M?* >Jr'*t »^«Br7»*'^'^*f''?-r *l Vi
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I ■ ' rij»!raf«jii by tbe coa.'ii^Jt or I'
■r fo pjvltc him on board, ''{ht | itv
' whj< 1 Uid n«K differ much 'rrfH«t^v»|**f<» >**mv4
Bui *jKtntdcd as wc fijight n ' ! 'ild
^ chiiOVed.by tlieif n-'' ' • • i i t ,
s uje vjt:^ and foratbr- V f ! f- .\a4 lai^jti^ «4K a^mfi
t pi
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I.,
NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA.
were, through a folitary ocean ; in fuch a fituation the fimple melody of
nature, proceeding in perfed); unifon and exa£t meafure from four hun-
dred voices, feund its way to our hearts, and at the fame moment awa-
kened and becalmed the painful thought.
About noon, a gentle breeze fprung up, when we continued our
courfe tO' the Southward along the fhore, at about the didauce of three
miles, and the natives of Tatootche returned to their ifland. As
we fleered onwards, canoes continually came off from the villages,
which we obferved from time to time, on the high banks clofe to the
fea. The people in the different boats invited us in the moft earneft man-
ner, to fteer in for their refpeftive villages ; but no means we employed,
and we took fome pains to efFeft it, could prevail on any of them to
venture on board the fliip.
The appearance of the land was wild in the extreme, — immenfe fo»
refts covered the whole of it within our fight, down to the very beach^.
which was lofty and cragged, and againft which the fea dafhed with fear-
ful rage. The (hore was lined with rocks and rocky iflets, nor could we
perceive any bay or inlet that feemed to pro'."nife the leaft'fecurity to the
fmallefl veffel : and unlefs there were fome narrow coves, which were
rmperceptible to us, we knew not how the natives could find a fhelter,.
even for their canoes ; yet the villages we faw were neither inconfiderable
in extent or in number. As we fleered along, the force of Southerly
florms was evident to every eye ; large and extenfive woods being laid
flat by their power, the branches forming one long line to the North
Weft, intermingled with roots of innumerable trees, which had been
torn from their beds, and helped to mark the furious Courfe of thefc tem-
pefts ; whofe violence may be conceived, when we reflcft on the great
I extent
'57
1788.
JVMI.
i '
1]
158
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. extent of ocean over which they blow, without a fuigle obje<£l to impede
J"""- their progrefs or break their violence. , „,
■^
i.y-
I: i
About fevcn in the evening, wc had a diftant fight of Cape Flattery, fo
named, as it was iirft fcen, by Captain Cook. It bore South Eaft half
Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues. This head-land is laid down in the
latitude of 48" 5' North, and longitude 235° 3' Eaft of Greenwich. —
In our accounts there was a very little difference, but we are moft wil-
ling to place the error on our fiilc. We had alfo a near view of the
village of Claflet, which is fituatcd on a:i high and ftcep rock clofe to
the fea. Though this place appeared to "be of confiderable extent, one
canoe only came ofFto us, containing thirty men clad in Ikins of the
rea.oitcr.
tk^^^
■■kt
J,-: Y.
1 iicfilav 1
The coaft from Cape Flattery fcemed now to trend entirely to tlie
Southward ; nor could we perceive any opening or inlet wliatever, that
promifed to afford us a place of flielter. As it was our defign to make
a particular examination of this coaft, the ftiip was hove to at funfct,
for the night. This part of the coaft was lined with rocks, and feveral
breakers ran ofFChflet, at about the diftance of half a mile.
At day-break, we refumed our courfe, Cape Flattery bearing North
North Weft, having been drifted in the night to the Southward. The
weather bore a very unfcttled appearance, and it blew ftrong from
the Weft South Weft, wlilch was nearly on the ftiore. At feven, the
bay ofQueenhithe opened to our view, which we entered with all thofe
unpleafing fenfations which may be fuppofed to arife from the reflexion,
that we were approaching the place where, and the people by whom,
tlie crew of the boat belonging to the Imperial Eagle were maffacred.
As
) if I'm '<
H. mm
\ I
H ' "I
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
As we fteered along jthe fhore, we obferved the fmall river and ifland
of Queenhithe ; but it became, on a fudden, fo thick and gloomy, that
the land, which was at about four miles diftance from us, was fcarcely
difcernible. Wc fiiw neither canoes or inhabitants, and an awful filence
reigned around us. But though the village of Queenhithe was obfcured
from our view, we could very plainly difcern the town of Qviecnuicttr,
which is diilant from it about fcven or eight miles. It is fituatcd
on an high perpendicular rock, and is joined by a narrow and im-
pregnable caufcway, twenty feet in height, to the main land, which
is an entire foreft. With our glafles we obferved a multitude of
houfes fcattered over the face of the rock. As we advanced, Deftrudlion
Ifland was fcen at the diftance of about a mile, fituated in the middle
of the bay, and diftant from the main land about two miles: it is low
and flat, and without a fingle tree ; it however prefented us tlie rare and
pleafiint fight of a confiderable fpace covered with verdure ; and appeared
to be furroundcd by breakers, on which an heavy fea rolled, occa-
fioned by the South Weft wind. In this pofition we had ten f\thomi
over a muddy bottom.
»59
1788.
Jwtr.
r
About eleven o'clock the wind veered to the South Weft, which
brought thick weather and rain, and we found ourfelves completely
embayed, — a fituation we fliould very gladly have avoided. An heavy
fwell idrtady rolled info the bay, which promil'ed to prevent us very
effctflually from coming to anchor, particularly if It blew from the
South Weft quarter, being dlredly on the land, which to the South-
ward was in fuch a diredlion, that a South Eaft courfe would not
weather any part of it; nor, on the other tack, could we hope to wea-
ther the Wefterly land, on account of the great Wefterly fwell.
In this fituation we ftood, as the better tack, to the South South
Eaft, until noon ; when, being within half a mile of the fliore, we
5 were
'W^'
m
•l It
V
* V
i6o
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
July.
were o^bligad to tack, and ftand to the Weft North Wefl : our foundings
were fifteen and eight fathoms clofe to the land, which was covered
with wood to the water's edge. We remarked, however, that the
beach was not very fteep, and here and there we obferved fome bare
and fandy patches. ^ ,
* ^t:
• ^1
.ff
We now kept under a prefs of fail, as it blew very flrong ; nor
dared we even to take in a reef of the top -fall ; befides the weather was fo
thick, that we could not fee a mile a-head of the (hip. We, how-
ever, imagined that we (hould be able to weather Deftru£lion Ifland,
and continued under this croud of fail to avoid the danger before
us ; when, at one o'clock, it cleared up for a moment, and we faw the
ifland a point under our lee-bow, at the diflance of a mile and an half,
an heavy fea drifting us faft in with the fhore.
There was now nothing to be done, but to caft anchor, which wc
prepared to do in the wildeft place we ever beheld, — and where we
were morally certain our anchors could not hold, though the bottom
was mud, from the ftrong tumbling in of an heavy fea.
In this (ituation, — the diflrefs of which was not a little enhanced by
the refledllon that we were on a fliore whofe barbarity our countrymen
had already experienced, — ten minutes muft have decided our fate :
when providentially the wind, on a fudden, veered to the South South
Eaft, which enabled us to tack and Aeer off the ihore with a flowing
iheet, and happy in the profpedt of procuring an offing before night ; — for
I believe there was not a perfon on board the fliip who had not re-
flected on the melancholy poffibility of his becoming a victim to the
cannibals of Queenhithe.
CHAP.
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
r«f
C n A P. XV.
1783.
Jul I,
Our Progrefs along the Coaji.'—D'tfcover Shoalwater Bay, which is inacceJfibU
to the Ships. — Natives come off.-^'Their honcji Dealing. — Some /Account of
them. — JFie furjue our Courfe. — Deception Bay. — Dijfercnce betxvcen the
Spanifl) Charts of Maurelie and the real Situation of the Conjl, — Beautiful
Appearance of the Country . — Pifs S^uickfand Bay and Cape Lo'jk-out. —
See three remarkable Rocks. — Clofe our Progrefs to the Southwnrd. — Future
Plan of proceeding.'— Knowledge gained of the Coajl.— Parts left unexplored
by Captain Cook now vifited.—Reafons for returning I0 the Northward.-^
Purfue our Courfe to the North.— Strait of John de Fucaficn again.— 'An-
chor in Port Effingham. — A Defcription of it, tic. — Marine Animals feen, tic.
■ I
* Si
1 ■
npHE wretched fate of the people belonging to the Imperial Eagle,
■^ evidently predominated in the minds of our crew ; and being
on the very coaft where fuch an adt of barbarity was committed, the in-
fedious apprehenfion of a fimilar deftrudion fprcad pjcncrally amongft
them. It was the common fubjeft of their difcourfc, and had fuch an
influence on their fpirits, as to endanger the lofs of the fhip, in a man<
ncr which will be related hereafter.
We continued (landing to fea all the evening of the fitftof July,
when, at midnight, being of opinion that we had fufficient ofllng, wo
wore and flood in again for the land. At one o'clock in t!ie moining,
the wind "veered to the Weft South Weft, which encouraged us to hope
for a fufficient degree of favourable weather, to continue our examination
of the coaft.
X On
I^i
i
H
y
I
> ^
V O YAG E S T O T H E
1788. On the morning of the 2(1, at feven o'clock, we agam faw the land
iy fj" bearing Eaft, at the diftance of fcvcn leagues, which wc judged to be
a little to the Southward and Eaftward of Queenhithe. This land was
very remarkable from its having tlie appearance of a faddle, and that part
of it obtained the name of Saddle Hill. We computed it to be in the la-
titude of 46° 30' North, and longitude of 235' 20' Eaft of Greenwich.
We ftood to clofe in with it, when it appeared to be the Southernmoft point
we had feen the preceding day, from Defttudtion Ifland. The wind veered
ag.Vm to the South South Eaft, and at once damped our hopes of fa-
vourable weather. Heavy rain with a thick fog Aicceeded, which obliged
us to tack and ftand again to fea.
The bad weather continued all this day, with an heavy fea from the
Weftward, that endangered the long- boat, which we had towed aftern
ever Hnce our departure from King George's Sound. It was, therefore,,
impoftible for us to encounter the land without running into extreme
danger. Befides, the moon was now near its change, a period which,
according to our obfervations, never failed in thefe feas to bring bad
weather along with it. We therefore carried a prefs of fail, to obtain a
good diftance from the land ; which was, at this time, an objciSt of no>
common confequence.
Thurfday 3 On the 3d at noon, we had a glimpfe of the fun, and the latitude was.
47" 46' North. The wind ftiifted to the South Weft, on which we
tacked and ftuod to the South South Eaft, immediately in for the land.
We now were at about the diftance of twenty leagues from Cape Flattery.
II \
^'o
Friday 4 During the night the weather was moderate and clear, and on the 4th
the wind ftiifted to the South Eaft ; when we again tacked and ftood to
the Eaft North Eaft, in order to near the land. We ftood thus till
fix o'clock in the evening, when the laud was feen bearbg from North
to
^"•!
\\
immf.r •
'-^'■«-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i6j
to North Eaft. In the Northern quarter it was of a great height, and 1788.
covered with fnow. This mountain, from its very confpicuous fituation,
and immenfe height, obtained tlie nanne of Mount Olympus. We com-
puted it to be in the latitude of 47° 10' North, and longitude 335* Ead
of Greenwich. In the North Eaft it ft retched itfelf out to a point,
which we judged to be in the latitude of 47° 20' North. We kept Siturj«y 1
ftnnding in for the land, during the night, with a light breeze from the
South Eaft ; and at fun-rife on the 5tli, it bore from North by Weft, to
Eaft by North, our diftance off ftiore being 1 2 leagues ; Co that in the
night we had been affe£led by a confidcrable current, which had fct us
from the land.
At noon the latitude was 47" 1' North, ami the lofiy mountains fecn
on the preceding day, bore Eaft North Eaft, diftant feven leagues.—
Our diftance might be four leagues from the ftiore, which appeared to
run in the direction of Eaft South Eaft, and Weft North Weft, and
there appeared to be a large found or opening in this diretflion.
By two o'clock, wc were within two miles of the ftiore, along which
we failed, which appeared to be a perfetfl foreft, without the veftige
of an habitation. The land was low and flat, and our foundings were
from fifteen to twenty fathoms over an hard fand. As we were fteering
for the low point which formed one part of the entrance into the bay
or found, we ftioaled our water gradually to fix fathoms, when breakers
were feen to extend in a direiftion quite acrofs it, fo that it appeared to
be inaccefiTible to fliips. We immediately hauled off the fliore until
we deepened our water to fixteen fathoms. This point obtained the name
of Low Point, and the bay that of Shoal- water Bay ; and an head- land
that was high and bluff, which formed the other entrance, was alfo
named Cape Shoal water. The head-land we judged to be in tlie lati-
tude of 46" 47' North, and the longitude 235° 1 1' Eaft of Greenwich.
' X 2 The
.•:-5CK;^
' J y':
164
VOYAGES TO THE
The dlrtancc fiom Low Point to Cape Shoal-water was too great to
atiiiiit of an ohf-ivation In our prcfent fituation. The (hoals ftill appeared
to run from (horc to fliore; but wlien we were about midway, we agaux
bore up near them, in order to difcover if there might not be a channel
nf.u" tlic cape : we accordingly fleered in for the moutli of tlie bay, when
wc fhoaled our water to eight fiithoms. At this time the breakers were
not more than three miles from us, and appeared to extend to Cape Shoal-
water, when it was thougl-.t prudent again to haul off. From the maft-
head it was oblervcd that this bay extended a conllderable way inland,
fpreadiiig into fcveral arms or branches to the Northward and Eaftward,
The back of it was bounded by high and mountainous land, which was
at a great dillancj from us. A narrow entrance appeared to the North
Well, but it was too remote for us difcover, even with glafles, whether
it was a river or low land.
4 t) i'l
1,1
11
\Vc had concluded that this wild and defolate fliorc was without inha-
bitants, but this opir'on proved to be erroneous; for a canoe now came
off to us from the point, with a man and boy. On their approach to the
Ihip, they held up two fea otter Ikins ; we therefore hove to, when
they came alongfide and took hold of a rope, but could not be perfuaded
to come on board. We then faftencd fcveral trifling articles to a cord,
and threw them over the llde ol the fliip, v. hen they were inftantly
and eagerly lei zed by the boy, and delivered by him to the man ; who
did not helltate a moment to tie the two otter Ikins to the cord, and
waved his hand ai a fign for us to take them on board, — which was ac-
cordingly done, and an additional preient immediately conveyed to hhn in
the fame manner as the former.
Thcfc flrangers appeared to be highly delighted with their unexpeiJled
trcafure, and fcemed, at firft, to be wholly ablorbed in their attention to
Ul9
I '/
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
165
the articles which compofed it ; but their curiofiry was in a ftiort time 1-88.
entirely traiisLrrcd to the (hip, and their eyes ran over every part of J""-*"*
it with a moft rapid tranfition, while their adions exprcflcd fuch extreme
admirfition and aftoniflimcnt, as gave us every reafon to conclude that
this was the firft time they had ever been gratified with the fight of fuch
an obje<Sl.
We endeavoured to make ourfelves intelligible, by addreffing them in
the language of King George's Sound, which we liad found to prevail
from thence to the diftri£t of Tatootche ; but they tlld not comprehend a
word we uttered, and replied to us in a I;iiigua;;e which bore not the
leaft refembl.mce or affinity, as far as we could form jud^nijut, to any
tongue that we had heard on the coaft of America.
On a particular infpecllon, we obfcrvcd that the fafliion of their canoes
differed from thofe of their more Northern neighbours. In their perfons
and cloaths, indeed, they refembled the people of Nootka ; but we ob-
ferved no ornaments about them which could lead us to fuppofe that
they had ever before cunimunicatcd with Europeans. Nevertlulefs their
firft holding up tlie otter Ikiiis, and the manner in which they conducHed
themfelves afterwards, plainly proves that tluy had an idea of trade : in-
deed, it is more than probable that (ome of tlie natives of Tatootche's
diftii:!: mn.y hnvc V - •irnilly roamed thus far, and communicated the
intelligence of flra.'^^trs ai'iving in (hips to trade for furs. But there is
every rcafon to believe that thefe people are of a dilferent and diflinct
nation from thofe of King (ieorge's Sound, Port Cox, and Tatootche;
nor is it improbable but that tliis vciy fpot might be the extreme boundary
of their diftrid: on the North. In this pcrluafion we became doubly
anxious to fuid Ibnie place of (hclter, — lome harbour or port where the (liip
5 could
i^'%
I ,•
1 66
VOYAGES TO THE
;
1788. could remain in fafety, while the boats might be employed in exploring
J*"^ '• this part of the coaft.
During the time we had been lying to for thefe natives, the (hip had
drifted bodily down to the fhoals, which obliged us to make fail, — when
the canoe paddled into the bay. It was our wi(h ti> have fent the long-
boat to found near the (hoals, in order to difcover if there was any chan-
nel ; but the weather was fo cloudy, and, altogether, had Co unfettled an
appearance, that we were difcouraged from executing fuch a defign.—
Nothing, therefore, was left for us but to coaft it along the fhore, and
endeavour to rind fome place where the (hip might be brought to a fecure
anchorage.
We therefore continued our courfe ; and, by feven o'clock, we were
at no great dlftance from Cape Shoal-water, when we again had a clear
and diftinft view of the bay and (hoals. — Our depth of water was (ixteen
fathoms, over a fandy bottom, and the land extended to the Eaft South
Eaft, from the Cape, from which we were diftant three leagues. The
land to the Southward made like iflands, but that circumfVance was at-
tributed to the fog, which now came thick upon us. As night came on
the (hip was hauled off (hore and hove to, to await the return of day-
light.
Sunday 6 fj^g moming of the 6th was very unfavourable to the bufinefs of
making difcoveries ; -the viiiid veered to the North, and blew very
ftrong, with a great fea;— Cape Shoal-water bore Eaft by North fix
leagues; and the laud was everywhere covered with a thick mift ; we
therefore did not bear up till nine o'clock, when the mift cleared
from off the land.— As we approached it our foundings were very regu-
lar, from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a fandy bottom.— At half paft
ten,
r <>«■«■■■)
jliiiiiii HI ■y— .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
ten, being wiihin three leagues of Cape Shoal water, we had a perfeft
view of it ; and, with the glafles, we traced the line of coaft to the
Southward, which prefented no opening that promifed any thing like an
harbour. An high bluff promontory bore off us South Eaft, at the dif-
tance of only four leagues, for which we fleered to double, with the hope
that between it and Cape Shoal-water, we (hould find fome fort of
harbour. We now difcovered diftant land beyond this promontory, and
we pleafed ouifelves with the expetflation of its being Cape Saint Roc
of tlie Spaniards, near which they are faid to have found a good port.
By half part eleven we doubled this cape, at the dlftance of three
miles, having a clear and pcrfedl view of the fhore in every part, on
whicli we did not difccrn a living creature, or the leaft trace of habitable
life. A prodigious Eafterly fwell rolled on the fhore, and the foundings
gradually decrealed from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a hard, fandy
bottom. After we had rounded the promontory, a large bay, as we had
imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very promifing appearance,,
and into which we ftecred with every encouraging expedlation.
167
1788.
B
m
The high land that formed the boundaries of the bay, was at a great
diftance, and aflat level country occupied the intervening fpace : the bay
itfelftook rather a wcfterly dirtdioii. As wc fleered in, t!je water flioaled
to nine, eight, and fevcn fathoms, when breakers were feeii from the
deck, right a-head ; and, from the maft-hcad, they were obfervcd to
extend acrofs the bay. We therefore hauled cut, and dlrefted ourcourfe to
the oppofite (bore, to fee if there was any channel, or if \vc could difcover
•any port.
The name of Cape" Difappointment was given to the promontory, and
the bay obtained the title of Deception Bay. By an indifferent meridian
I obfervation,.
1'
'I ^
1 68
VOYACiES TO THE
* I
1788.
JULV.
t ,
obfervation, it lies in tlie latitude of 46° 10' North, and in the computed
longitude of 235" 34' Enll. We can now with fafety afTcrt, that there is
no fuch river as that of Saint Roc c-xifts, as laid down in the Spanifli
charts : to thofc of iNlaurelle we made continual reference, but withoui.
derivuig any information or afllftance from them.
We now reached the oppofite fide of the bay, where difappointment
continued to accompany us ; and being alnioft certain that there we fliould
obtain no place of Iheltcr for the fliip, we bore up for a diftant head-land,
keeping our courfc within two miles of the (hore.
The face of the country, however, aflumed a very diih.rent appearance
from that of the Nortliern coafl:. Many beautiful fpots, covered with
the fined verdure, folicited our attention ; and the land rofe in a very
gradual afcent to the diftant mountains, (kirtcd by a white fandy beach
down to the fea. As we failed along, fpacious lawns and hanging-
woods everywhere met the delighted eye, — but not an human being
appeared to inhabit the fertile country of New Albion.
As we thus purfued our courfe along the fliore, obferving every part of
it with themofl: minute attention, a large opening appeared a-head, which
once more animated our hopes, and formed a new fource of difappoint-
ment. Ill the offing it blew very ftrong, and a great wefterly fwell
tumbled in on the land. By feven o'clock we were abreaft of this open-
ing, the mouth of which, to our great mortification, was entirely
clofed by a low fandy beacli, nearly level with the fea, which appeared
to flow over it, and form an extenfive back-water :— beyond it an open
champaign country extended to a confiderablc diftance, where it was
confined by a boundary of lofty mountains.
The
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
The bny was named by us Quickfand Bay, and an adjoining head-
land Cape Grenville ; — the diftant Southerly head-land, we called
Cape Look-out. This cape is very high and blufF, and terminates
abruptly in the fea. At about the diftance of two miles from it
there rofe three Inrge rocks, which were very remaikable, fiom the great
refeinblaiice they bore to each other. — The middle one has an arch-
way, perforated, as it were, in its centre, through which we very plainly
difcovered the diftant fea. — They more particularly attracted our notice,
as we had not obferved between King George's Sound and this place, any
rocks fo confpicuoufly fituated from the land : —their diftance frona each
other mii^ht be about a quarter of a mile, and we gave them the name of
the Three Brothers.
By eight In the evening we were within three leagues of Cape Look-
out, which we judge to lie in the latitude of 45° 30' North, and in the
longitude of 235° 50' Eaft of Greenwich. We were now convinced that
there was no opening between the Cape and Quickfand Bay.
As we had met with nothing but difcouragement, wc here gave up all
further purfuit, and clofed our progrefs to the Southward : — we therefore
hauled our wind, in order to proceed again to the Northward.
It was our intention to take our courfe to the great bay or found which
we had pafled the day after our departure from Port Cox, and from
whence a large company of the natives came off to us. This bay had, in-
deed, been already vifited by tlie flilp Imperial Eagle, where we had found
a fccure anchorage : from thence we propofed to fend the long-boat, in
order to explore the ftraits, and to afcertain whether the inhabitants were
a people diftin*St from thofe of Nootka Sound.
¥ Wc
169
1788.
July.
■ : ■
1/
170
1788.
Juir.
V O YAG E S TO THE
We had now obtained no Inconfiderable knowledge of the Coaft of
America, from King George's Sound to Cape Look>out : that is, from
the latitude of 45" 37' North, to the latitude of 49" 37' North.— We had
not only traced every part of a coaft which unfavourable weather had
prevented Captain Cook from approaching, but had alfo afcertained the
real exiftence of the Strait of John de Fuca, which now renewed
its claim to our attention. We moft anxioufly wifhed to have con-
tinued our inquifitive courfe to the Southward, as far, at leaft, as lati-
tude 42", where it is faid Captain Caxon found a good harbour; but the
feafon was already fo much advanced, that had we gone fo far to the
Southward, we fhould not have been able to return to King George's
Sound before the equino£lial gales fet in ; — a feafon to be dreaded on this
coaft, more efpccially when we knew of nO' harbour where we could take
refuge againft the violence of it : — Befides, we were influenced- by a very
natural anxiety concerning the party we had left at Nootka : — they might
have been in want of our affiftance, and various circumftances might
have arifen, which, would render our return of importance ta them, at
leaft before the month of September :— Befides, if we had purfued our
courie to the Southward, we ftiould hav« been altogether prevented from
examining the ftralt; as the bad weatlier which we had every reafon tg
believe we ftiould' experience on.our return, mij^-jit, and in all probability
would, prolong the courle of it to the middle of Auguft. — As it was, we
fcldom enjoyed a fucceflion of three days without cither fog or rain.
The equino£lial gales blow with great fury on the coaft of America, and'
generally let in from the loth to the J5th of September, We were
therefore apprehenfive that they might drive us off the coiift, and force
us, perhaps, to fteer to the -Sandwich Iflands, and, of courfe, .0 leave
the party at Nootka in a fituation of difficulty and danger.
*^ ^ Such
%
•-a*.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Such were the rcafons which determined us to return to the North,
and to keep King George's Sound open, at all events, let the winds or
weather be what they might. This meafure was alfo effentially neceflary,
as it was already agreed that on the 20th of September one of the (hips
' (hould leave the American coaft on her return to China ; but before this
part of our expedition could be put in execution, the new veflel was to
be launched and equipped for fea, and near three thoufand fathoms of
cordage manufa£tured, — a budnefs which would employ a .Tiore nume-
rous crew than our fliip contained.
171
Bl 'I
1788.
July.
At fun-rife of the yth.Cape Look-out was feen, bearing Eaft by South, MoiHtajrT
at the diftance or twelve leagues. Our latitude at noon was 45° 12' North,
and the variation of the compafs only 16" 10' Eaft.
It was the loth of July before we again made the land, when at noon Thurf<Uy i*
we difcerned the high land forming the Eaftern fliore in the Straits of
de Fuca ; and, at fun-fet, we faw the Eafternmoft head-land of the large
found near Port Cox, which obtained from us the name of Cape Beale :
this head-land bore North by Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The variation of
the compafs was here 1 8° 30' Eaft.
On the nth, in the morning, we were ofFthe mouth of this found, Friday n
which appeared extenfive, but of no great depth. Several iflands were
placed nearly in the middle of it, which were rather high, and well
wooded. The long-boat was fent to find the anchoring-ground, and,
above eleven o'clock, (he returned to pilot us into a fine Ipacious port,
formed by a nurr.uer of iflands, where we anchored in eight fathoms
water, over a muddy bottom, and fecurely (heltered from wind and fea.
A large number of natives immediately cair.e off in their canoes, and
brought abundance of fi(h ; among which were falmon, trout, cray, and
Y 2 other
J 'J
A' k
i;2
1788.
VOYACJES TO THE
other flicll-fiTh, with plenty of" wlUl berries and onions. TBefc peopTe
belonged to a very large village, fituated on the fummit of a very high
hill. — This port we named Port EfFingham, in honour of the noble LorJ
or that title. , 1 .■ .• -
Samniayij Q^ ti,e nth, the fails and running rigging were unbent, a party of
WMtcrers were fent on fliore, and the reft of the crew were employed
about the ncceflary duty of the fliip.
This found had been vlfited by Captain Barclay, of the Imperial Eagle,
in the year 1787, who named it IJarclay Sound. Tlie found itfelf is
very extenfive, and contains fcveral fcattered iflands, entirely covered with
wood. On the main land there are large and populous villages, well
watered by rlvukts, where great numbers of falmon arc taken, whlcli,
when properly prepared, conftitute a principal part of their winter's
food .
. The port is fufficlently capacious to contain an hundred fail of fhlps,—
and fo fortunately fheltercd as to fjcure them from any ftorm. — The
anchorage is alio good, being a foft mud, and the watering place perfedly
convenient.
' 1
-^
^j
In our paflage from Cape Look-out to Port Effingham, we faw num-
bers of fea otters playing in the water with their young ones ; but at the
fhip's approach they quickly difappeared. Once or twice we pafled
within a few yards of fome of them, as they were fleeping on their
backs hi the fea. At firft we took them for pieces of drift-wood, rill,
on being awakened be the noife of the fliip, they Inftantly dived away.
We alfo faw many whales of the fpermaceti kind, and feals without
number, befides other huge marine animals. '
"'' < CHAP.
; ' ^r.
•I*"
'•■ft
'i
!:i*
i
',: :(■
*!'
^1
MM
i'^_
./^■'
.¥•
,-■'■•».
"•■<•-* V '»p='*«
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. X\ I.
•73
1788.
July.
Tiih pnjtfflon of the StraUs r/f de Ftica in the Name of the King rf Great Bri-
tain.— Vifted by the Natives. — Pknfant Situation of the Ship, — Long boat
equipped and fent on an Expedition. — 'TheObjedi of it. — Strangers refurt to
the Ship. — Anxiety on Account oftheLong'toat, which at length arrives. —
Reafn of her quick Return. — Conflict with the Natives of the Straits cf de
Fuca, and the Confequfnces of it. — Fahur of ti^ofe People. — The dangerous
Situation of the Boat and Crezv. — Diftance advanced up the Stniils of de
Fuca. — Poftion of them. — Human Heads offered to Jale. — Damp thrown
en the Spirits of the Crew. — Prepare for Sea. — Leave Pert Effingham. —
An Account of the Port and Sound. — Progrefs of the neiv fiffc/^ ^i?c.—
Succefs in collecting Furs.— Attention of Maquilla,
it'
'»!
\ t'
TT may not be improper to mention that we took poflcHlon of the
■*• ftraits of John dc Fuca, in the name of the King cf Britain, witli
the forms that had been adopted by preceding navigators on fimilai*
occafions.
On the 30th of July, a confiderable number of natives vifitcd the
fhlp in thif. ftation, from whom we purchafed furs of various kinds. —
But it was obfcrved by us, that they were not accompanied by th^ir
chiefs, or indeed any perfon of autliority amongfl: them. They nllb
brought us great plenty of fiilmon, which, in delicacy of flavour, far
exceeded that of Nootka Sound, with large quantities of fliell-filh, and
the refrcrtjing as well as falutary provifion of wild onions, and fruits of
tliciL-
m
t
5^
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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I.I
125
US
■tt IM 122
Sf |4£ 12.0
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— 11''^ 1'-^
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Carporation
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23 VMBT MAIN STRHT
¥VIISTIR,N.Y. 14SM
(71«)S7a-4S03
C^
m
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. their woods; with which nature had kindly furniftied every part of the
^^'^^' coaft where we had any communication with the natives of it.
It was now the height of fummer, the weather was warm and plea-
fant ; and we very fenfibly enjoyed the benign influence of the delightful
fcafon. Not a fingle patch of fnow was vifible on thefummits of the
I'jfty mountains which furrounded the found. We could not, therefore,
but derive a moft refrefhing fatisfatflion from our temporary rcpofe in
this calm and charming fituation.
I
ffi
t
We embraced the prefent favourable opportunity todifpatch the long-
boat, not only to explore the ftraitsof de Fuca, but to procure, If poflible,
feme knowledge of the people of Shoalwater-Bay. She was, therefore,
properly equipped for the occafion, was manned with thirteen of our
people, and furniAied with provifions for a month. The command of
her was given to Mr^ Robert Duffin, our firft officer, to whom written
iiiftru(£kions were delivered, by which he was to govern himfelf in the
conduft of this little expedition.— On the 13th, the boat departed on its
voyage of difcovery.
The crew employed on this occafion, added to the party we had fpared
for the fervice of King George's Sound, had fo diminiHied our (hip's
company, that it became abfolutely neceflTary for us to put ourfelves in
the beft pofTible ftate of preparation, in cafe our prefent neighbours, who
are a numerous, bold, and powerful people, fliould be tempted by a
knowledge of our weaknefs to make an attack. All the guns were
therefore mounted ; the arms got ready for fervice, and orders iflued
that none of the natives (hould, on any pretence whatever, be fuffeted
to come on board the (hip.
Immc-
\ \
^7S
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Immediately after the departure of the long-boat, a confiderable num- 1788*.
ber of canoes from the Northward, came along-fide us, few, if any, of ^'"'^*
which contained iefs than thirty men, and many of them more, beiides
women and children. Among our vifitors we recolledted the faces of
feveral whom we had already feen at Port Cox, of which place they
were inhabitants. The others were natives of the Weftern (hore which
ftretches down to the (traits, and which forms a part of the extenfive
territories of Wicananiih. That prince, it Teemed, had lately given a fplen*
did feaft to a large number of his principal fubjeAs ; and from the great
quantity of thofe articles he had received from us, which we now perceiv-
ed among them, there was every reafon to fuppofe that he had added totho
fplendour of his banquet, by dividing his treafures among thofe who had
the honour of being invited to it..
Nothing maferial occurred till the 20th : the weather continued to be Sunday so
extremely fine, and our communication with the natives was on terms of
reciprocal good underftanding. They daily reforted to us with furs, fifh
and vegetables, and fometimes an occafional prefent of very fine venifon
added its luxury to the common plenty of our table. But in our prefent
ftate of inactivity, the fituation of the long-boat was continually prefTing
home upon our minds with the hopes of fuccefs, or the fears of calamity.
The favage nature of the people who inliabited tlic parts which our friends
were gone to explore, operated to alarm the one ; at the fame time that our
confidence in their Ikill, courage, and good condu£l, animated the other.—
While, however, our imaginations were following them in their voyage,
with themoft afFeftionate folicitude, they were on the verge of deflruc-
tion, and threatened with (haring the abhorrent fate of their countrymen
who were devoured by the cannibals of Queenhithe,
\
On
174
1788.
Jutr.
VOYAGES TOTHE
On the evening of the 20th, we faw the fails of the long>boat in the
ofHng; but the fudden impulfe of our unreflefting joy on the occafion,
was immediately checked by the apprchenfions that naturally arofe in
our minds from her early return. The interval of her arrival at the
ihip was a period of very painful fufpenfe to every one on board : at
length, to our inexpreflible fatisfaftion, we obferved, on her coming
along^fide, that not an individual was mifllng. Our immediate attention,
however, was called to the afliftance of fome wounded men, who had
fufFered fcverely m a very violent conflict the boat had fuftained
with the natives of the ftraits, and which was the caufc of her fudden
return.
The whole attention of the ftiip was now transferred to our wounded
people ; but though feveral of them were much hurt, we were confoled
with finding that no mortal injury had been received by any. The
officer was wounded by a barbed arrow in the head, which would have
killed him on the fpot, if a thick hat had not deadened the force of the
weapon. One of the feameu was pierced in the breaft, and another in
the calf of the leg, into which the arrow had entered fo far iu to render
a very large incifion abfolutely neceflary, in order to difcharge it. A
fourth received a wound very near the heart, but the weapon which gave
it, very fortunately fell fliort of the vital parts. The reft of the people
were bruifed in a terrible manner by the ftones and clubs of the enemy ;
even the boat itfelf was pierced in a thoufand places by arrows, many of
which remained in the awning that covered the back part of it ; and which,
by receiving the arrows, and breaking the fall of large fti)nes thrown
from flings, m a great mcafure faved our party from inevitable de-
ftru£lion.
Im
l\^
i'M
ym '3
>*•*!:
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
In this engagement the natives behaved with a fpirit and refolution
that rofifted the ufual terror of fire-arms among a favage people ; for the
conteft was clofe, and for fome time our men fouglit for their lives. —
One of them had beenfingled out by an individual favage for his vi£tim,
and a fierce engagement took place between them. The native viTas
armed with a ftone bludgeon, and the failor with a cutlafs. They both
nianifefted, for fome time, equal courage and dexterity ; but if an inter-
vening oar had not broke a blow, armed with all the force of his enemy,
our brave countryman muft have funk beneath it. It however failed of
its obje(ft, and gave him an opportunity, by a fevere ftroke of the cutlafs,
to deprive the native of an arm, who, notwithrtanding fuch a lofs, and
feveral other wounds, contrived to fwim from the boat, indebted for his
life to the noble mercy of his conqueror, ivho difdained to kill him iir
the water.
»77
1788;
JULT.
I
\r,l
The feaman who was wounded in the leg, continued, during the a£tion,
with the arrow in his flefli ; and without attempting to rid himfelf of
the torturing weapon, became, by his courageous and active exertions, a
very principal inftrument in preferving the boat.
Though we had never had any intercourfe or communic.ition with the
inhabitants of the ftraits, we had indulged ourfelves with the hope that
cur friendly conduft towards their neighbours, might, by fome means,
have reached the diftri<3: of their habitation, and given them favourable
impreflions of us : but their conduft marked the mod favage and bloody
hoftility ; and the fury of their onfet compelled a fimilar fpirit of re-
fiftance : but to do juftice to tlie humanity of our people, — notwithfland-
ing the adtual fufFerings of many of them, and the cruel fate which they
well knew would have been the certain allotment of them all, had
they loft the day, — they never failed, in recounting the circumftaiices of
'^ of
i n%
If I.
1
iy'
,78
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. of It, to exprefsan unfeigned concern for the unhappy people who h;;d fo
^^^^' ralhly courted their own deftrutSlion.
The attack was begun by the favages,— who boarded the boat, with the
defign of taking her, in two canoes, containing between forty and fifty
men, who were moft probably fonie of their choiceft warriors. Several
other canoes alfo remained at a fmall diftance, to alfift in the attempt ; and
the (hore was every where lined with people, who difcharged at our veflel
continual fliowers of ftoues and arrows. A chief in one of the canoes, who
encouraged the advance of the others, was moft fortunately (hot in the
head with a fingle ball, while in the very a£l of throwing a fpear of a
moft enormous length at the cockfwain. This circumftance caufed the
canoes to draw back, and deprived the natives who were already engaged,
of that fupport which muft have enfured them the vidory.-^— Indeed,
as it was, when we confider tliat the boat's company confifted only of
tliirtcen men, who were attacked with the moft courageous fury by fu-
pcrlor numbers, and galled as thcfe were, at the fame moment, by the
numerous weapons conftantly difcharged from the fliore, their efcape is
to be numbered among tliofe favourable events of life, which never fail
to excite, In well ordered minds, a mingled fenfiition of gratitude and
aRonifliment.
'I
W
The boat had advanced a confiderable way up the Straits of de Fuca,
and had entered a bay or harbour; when, as our people were pre-
paring to land for the purpofe of examining it, they were attacked by the
natives, as has been juft related ; and, of courfe, efFedlualJy obftruded in
the purfuit of their original defign. From this ftation, however, they
obferved, that the ftraits to the Eaft North Eaft appeared to be of great
extent, and to encreafe rather than diminifti.
» -% ' . !
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Ai they returned down the flralts, they were met by a fmall canoe
paddled by two men, who were the fubjedts of Wicananifti, and from
whom they purchafed fome fifli. But words cannot exprefs the furprife
and abhorrence of our people, when thefe favages held up two human
heads, but juA cut off, and ftill dreaming with blood, by way of offering
them to fale. They held thefe deteftable objects by the hair with
an air of triumph and exultation; and, when the crew of the boat
difcovered (igns of difguft and deteflation atfuch an horrid fpeftacle, the
favages, in a tone, and with looks of extreme fatisfa£tion, informed
them, that they were the heads of two people belonging to Tatootchc,
whom they had murdered, as that chief had lately declared war againft
Wicananifli. This circumftance threw a damp upon the fpirits of the
crew, which continued, more or lefs, through the whole of the voyage.
Though the boat had not fucceeded in the principal objeft of our
expedition, yet it did not return without being able to communicate fome
knowledge of the ftraits of de Fuca. She had failed near thirty leagues
up the ftrait, and at that diftance from thefea it was about fifteen leagues
broad, with a clear horizon ftretching to the Eaft for 15 leagues more. —
Such an extraordinary circumftance filled us with ftrange conjeftures as
to the extremity of this ftrait, which we concluded, at all events, could
not be at any great diftance from Hudfon's Bay: — An opinion which is
confidered at large in the Introdudion to this volume.
»79
1788.
July.
We were now obliged to give up all hope of obtaining any further
fatisfa£lion concerning the extent of the ftraits, or of the particulars of
Shoalwater Bay, at lelift for this feafon. We therefore prepared to return
with all poflible expedition to join our party in King Geors^e's Sound.
Z
On
m^ I Milt'
lU
V O YAG E 8 TO THE
1788. On tlie 2 id, we put to Tea with the tide of ebb, and by noon we
Jui-v- were entirely clear of the Sound. Our latitude was aS** 41' North, and
Monday i 1 -• -> i
Port Effingham bore North Weft by North, at the diftance of five miles.
Ji;
It ■' I •
: \
!
During our ftay in this port, we were vifitcd by a great variety of
people, who refided at different places between Port Cox and the ifland
of Tatootche. But none of thole who inhabit the country up the ftrait
ventured to approach us : perhaps the fear of Tatootche, whofe ifland is
fituated at the very entrance, and is faid to contain near five thoufand
people, might prevent them from coming to the fliip.
In this ftation we procured a confidcrable quantity of very fine fea-
otter (kins, with abundance of fifti, confifting of falmon, halibut, her-
rings, fardonies, cod, trout, and rock-fifti. We were alfo furnifhed with
a continual fupply of vegetables and fruits of the woods ; particularly
a kind of wild currant, which grows on trees of a tolerable fize.
The found is, by no means, fo extenfivc as that of Nootka. It affords^
however, feveral places of (helter, but none of them are fo commodioua
as Port Effingham, which is entirely fecure from all winds. The coaft
every where abounds with timber for ftiip-building, and which would
form the fineft mafts and fpars in the world.
Tuefday •» During the whole of the 2 2d the wind blew from the Weft North
Weft, with which wc ftood to fea to the South Weft, till noon of the
WcdM<(bx*3 23d, when the latitude was 4&° 36' North. At this time we had
made fo confiderable an offing that we loft fight of land ; when, at three
in the afternoon, the wind veering to the South Weft, wc tacked and
ftood to the Weft North Weft, to naake the land.
< Ift
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 181
In the morning of the 24th, the wind (hifted to the Southward, which 1788.
brought thick, hazy weather, and of courfe prevented us from clofing Thur(U»y">4
with the (horc. Towards noon, however, it cleared away, and the lati-
tude was 49' 40' North : but we fcarcely had taken the meridian, when
the fog returned, and on founding, we bad no more than twenty fathoms
of water ; on which we tacked immediately and flood to Tea. At four
o'clock it again cleared up, wlien Breaker's Point was fcen bearing
Eaft by South, diftant four leagues, and our diftance from the land was
only three leagues ; fo that when wc tacked, we muft have been clofe
on board it.
The thick, mifty weather did not entirely^ clear away till the morning Friday is
of the 25th, when the entrance of King George's Sound was feen bearing
Eaft North Eaft, at the diftance of fix leagues ; but it again came on fo
very foggy, that it would have been imprudence in the extreme to have
run for the land.
About eight o*clock in the morning of the t6th, we happily anchored Sawrdiy 16
fafe in Friendly Cove; when we enjoyed the very great fatisfadion of
finding our friends in perfe»fl health and fecurity, as well as the vcflel
in a forward ftate of advancement : (he was completely in frame, part of
her (ides were planked, her decks laid, and moft of her iron work
finifhed.
During our abfence a confiderable quantity of furs .u been colle£ted,
not only from the natives, but from various companies of ftrangers,
whom the fame of the vefTel had induced to vifit Nootka, in order to fa-
tisfy their curiofity with the (ight of fuch an objed.
Maquilla
: )
.< ^ti
lis
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
JvLy.
Maquilla had Icrupuloudy adhered to every part of his engngemcnt,
and the faithful Callicum had attended to the welfare and fafety of our
people, with the vigilance of honour, and the affection of friendHiip :
the inhabitants of the village in his jurifdidlion, not only brought
daily and plentiful fupplics of fi(h and other provifions to the houfe, but
gave the party every afliftance in their power, by his immediate orders.
Nor is it poHible for us to relate his zealous regard and unfliaken attach-
ment to us, without lamenting the unmerited fate he received, from
the unfeeling and execrable concKi£l of men who were natives of th»
mod enlightened quarter of the globe, and boaft the profcfTion of a reU«
glon of peace and mercy.
I f i
i.
CHAP.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
183
1788.
Juiv.
i
I
C II A P. XVII.
jlnxiely of the Party on Shore on jlccount of the Ship. — Report: fpread ly the
Natives. — KnoivleJ^e obtained by the Party of our Engagement in the Straits
of De Fuca, and its Confejuence.— Improvement made in the Houfe^ tic.
during the Abfnce of the Felice. — The yijlonillmcnt of the Natives
at the Building of the Veffel^ with their peculiar AitenUon to the Employ'
mcnt of the Smiths. — Our Olfct^atim of the Sabbath an Objedt of
particular Curiofity to the Natives. — Sotne Knowledge of their Religion deri-
ved from thence. — Dejign of proceeding again to Port Cox. — Reafm ajjigned
for not flopping there on our Return from Port Effingham. — Our Intentions
fruflrated.-^-Mutiny on Board. — 'the Perfom concerned in it turned on
Shore. — And the Reafons for fuch a ATeafure, tic.
\{
IF, during our progrefs to the Southward, we felt at times a very
poignant anxiety for the fafety and welfare of thofe whom we had
left on (hore, it cannot be fuppofed, for a moment, that they were not
affefted by fimilar fcnfations for their frienJs on board the Felice ;
who were gone to encounter the dangers of thole feas where it was
doubted that ever fliip had ploughed the water, and to explore thofe
coafts which they did not fiippofe an European foot had ever trod. —
Their folicitudc was equal to our own ; and tl;eir intervals of labour
were conftantly employed in counting the hours of our abfence, — offer-
ing up prayers for our fafety, — and joining in wiflies for our return. —
But this was not all— the natural concern they muft feel on our account,
^ 5 was
u
'ih rr
{
ii
i«4
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. was heightened into the mod painful alarm, from a report brougljt them
. f"'"- by fomc of the fubje£ts of Wicanaiiifh, which contained an account of
our having been attacked by the people of Tatootche, who had cut to
pieces a part of the crew of the Felice ; and that the principal officers
were among thofe who had fallen in the contcft. — Such a relation, which
could not be fuppofcd, by the moft incredulous of our people, to be %
mere invention, threw them into a flate of coiifuiion that checked
the growing ardour of their exertions, and caft a gloom over them
* which the utmoft efforts of tlicir rcfolution, and the fpirit ncceflary to
encounter a repeated acccfTlon of difficulties, was not able entirely to dil-
fipate.— This report, however, proved to be an entire fabrication of thofi;
who brought it, as it was previous to the adtion of our long-bont wit!)
the natives of the Straits, which migljt have, in fome degree, jurtified
an exaggerated account of that unfortunate event. — From what motives
this falHiood was fabricated, we never could difcover, or, indeed, form
any thing like a fatisfaftory conjecture. A full and faithful account,
however, of our proceedings in Port Effingham, and a particular dc-
fcription of our wounded fcamcn, was brought to Nootka Sound, by a
native of that port, who had arrived to difpofe of a cargo of furs to
Maquilla.
Among other unpleafant confequences of this report, it put an end, for
fome time, to all communication between the natives of King George's
Sound and the houfe ; and occafioned our people, who were under the
affli£ling apprehenfions that they fhould never Cce us more, to redouble
their precautions till the arrival of the Iphigenia — Their joy, therefore,
may be more eafily conceived than defcribcd, when they fiw the Felice
enter the Sound, and beheld every perfon on board in health and fpirits,
who had departed with her.
■ The
N t ) 11 l' 1 1 W I'. S T C O A S V OK A M K I'> I C A.
The fil'ntioM aiiil ciiciundniiccs in uliicli \vc t'ouml our littlo colony
at oiir It tiiri), very cvidtMitly proved tlicir tlili^Miicc, as well as attention
to the ordi rs K t't with thc-m tor their cotjihu't diuiiijf our aljj'iuc. The
hodfc h.ul been niidcicd iKifnTlly Heme from any attack of thi; natives,
thou}',h tli'y (hoidd liavc eniploynl thiir vvhdl" force ajyainll it. A pdi-
fado of llroiig It ikes, uitli a well-fornnd fence of tliick huflies, had rcn*
dered our groinid, in a prcat nuafurc, imprejnjahle. Various other inj-
jirovements, of lefs conft(Hieiicc, luid been made, as new ideas of conve-
nience and utility fugj^ened thcnifelvcs, w hich, altogether, ^wvc tlic plate
an appearance of a little dock-yard, and not only cngroflcd the Ji'tention,
hut excited the aftuiiinmicnt of the Nootkan people.
185
Jl'LT.
Our abfencc from the Sound liad been only one month and twenty f'.i»
days; and in this time, a-, wo have already particulari/Ad, a very expe-
ditious advance had been made in the vellel. — Siic was, aj n>ay be
very naturally fuppofed, an ohjctfl of great curioiity among tlic native.?,
who could never be pcrfuaded that fuch a body of limber would find a
])ower equal to the removal of it from the flocks on wliich it was build-
ing.— Hut their moft inquifitlve attention employed itlMfon the worh-
(hop of the fmiths, and the operation of the forj^es. Their fimpic minds,
jn a ftate fo diftant from the knowledge of enlightened nature and t\vi
cultivated world, beheld, with all the cxtiavngancc of infantine delight,
the mechanic (kill of our artificers. — Nor was their intercft lefa engaged
than their curiofity, in .nttendlng to thofe powers which fibricated the
variety of articles that added fo much to the pride, the plcal'urc, and
the convenience of their lives.— Indeed they were continually making
application to have iron forged into forms of ufe or ornament ; ami
fo very fickle were they in the obje£ls of their fancy, that it became a mat-
ter of confider.ible trouble to fatisfy their varying inclinations. — It waa
therefore determined to turn this changeful difpofition to our own ad-
( I
Aa
vanta"c.
i86
VOYAGES TO THE
17S8. vantnge, by enhancing the value of indulging it; in confequence of
^^^^' which regulation, the daily fupply of p.ovitions was confiderably aug-
mented, and t'ldi and fruit were brought in encreaHng abundance.
su.iiiy ^^ The 27th, being Sunday, the crew had leave to amufe thenrifelves with
a r.inible on (hoie. The weather was extremely pleafant,— the air was
genial, — and every one wore in his looks the fatisfadion he felt, on en-
joying a ceffation from labour, and the indulgence of eafe and fccurity.—
Indeed it was our conftant cuftom to pay all poflible refpe«a to the fab-
bath, and to fultlll its defign, '.vhcnever it was in our power, by making
it a day of reft.
The natives could not, at firft, comprehend why all our occupations
ftood ftill on this day :— but the different cloathing of the men, and,
particularly, the clean faces of the fmiths and armourers, awakened their
curiofity fo far as to produce an enquiry of us concerning this incompre-
hcnfible regulation. — The manner of their receiving our explanation,
gave us fome infight into their religion, which will be the fubje£t of
a future page.
Monday it On the 28th, wc refumed our work, and a large party was fcnt into
the woods to fell timber, for the purpofe of planking the veflel, which
was a very laborious bufinefs, as there were large logs to be conveyed
upwards of a mile, through a thick foreft, to our little dock-yard.—The
remainder of the crew were employed, either in making cordage, affifting
the carpenters, or preparing the (hip for fea.
It was now determined to put our defign in execution of proceeding
in a few days to Port Cox, to pay another commercial vifit to Wicananifli.
It was, indeed, our original intention to have taken that place in our
way
* ,
/
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
way back from Port Effingham ; but the accident of the long-boat, ui
the Straits of de Fuca, and our impatience to return to our friends in the
Sound, predominated over every other confideration. But as we were
now perfedly fatisfied as to the Htuation and progrefs of the party at
Nootka, it was agreed to proceed again to fea, as we expe£tcd to reap
very confiderable advantages from the numerous hunters of Wicananiih,
who, we had every reafon fuppofe, would, by this time, have accumu-
lated a very large quantity of furs. Nor did we hefitate to believe, that
our reception from that chief would be more gracious, as it was now in
our power to replenifh his coffers with fuch an inedimable article as
a copper tea-kettle. But this defign was unfortunately fruftratcd by a
very dangerous mutiny again breaking out, which was pregnant with
confequences of the moft alarming nature.
187
1788.
July,
This mutiny was headed by the difgraced boatfwain, and the beft men
in the (hip.— They made a defperate attempt to feize the arms and put
the firft officer to death, who was left to take care of the fhip; as every
other perfon in command was on (hore, in the engagement of his duty,
or for the purpofe of recreation. The time which was chofen for this
enterprize was well imagined, as it was in the evening, on their return
from the woods, and when, as we firft obferved, there was but one
officer on board.
Ever fince the firft fymptoms of mutiny appeared off" the Philippines,
the arms had been removed from the quarter-deck to the cabin ; and
this precaution faved the ft»ip : for the officer having fortunately
gained the cabin before the mutineers, he placed himfclf at the door
with a loaded blunderbufs, and kept them from advancing, while he
called aloud for afliftance. It was a fortunate circumftance that moft of
the officers were fitting on the quarter-deck of the new vcflol, whicli was
A a 5 not
( i 'i
i88
1788.
JVLY.
VOYAGES TO THE
not more than an hundred yards from the (hip. We therefore inftantlj
heard the alarm through the cabin-window, and did not delay an inftant
in getting on board the (hip.
■-' ^ [
•1.4)
'i. i
The firfl: ftep we took was to arm ourfelves : — when, being thus pre«-
pared, we turned the crew on deck, as we were determined to face the bu-
iiiicfs on tlie inftant. We well knew that there were many good men in
the fliip ; and we refolved, if pofTible, to feparate them from the reft,
before they were prevailed on, by any means, to join in the plot. The
crew being now all on deck, it inftantly appeared who were the
ringleaders in the budnefs, though we had fome reafon to apprehend that
the mutiny was a matter of general agreement. We then informed
them that it was our determination to proceed to extremities ; and
warned fuch as were difpofcd to be obedient, to feparate themfelves
from the reft: — When, on prefenting our arms, moft of the crew
came over to us, leaving eight turbulent fellows, headed by the dif-
carded boatfwain, who remained deaf to all our perfuafions to return to
their duty.— As we were now very fuperior in numbers, we hoped to
fettle the matter without fhedding a drop of blood on the occafion. We
therefore left them the alternative, either to go into irons, or be turned
on ftiorc among the favages. They preferred the latter,— and were im,-
diately laiided, with everything that individually belonged to them-
They were no fooner gone than good order and difcipline were reftored.
Inftruiftions, however, were fent to the party on fliore, not to permit the
mutinous people to find a ftielter at the houfe, or to be admitted to any
communication with them. A ftrift watch was alfo kept on board, as
we were not, by any means, without our doubts concerning the difpofi-
tions of the reft of the crew.
We
I y i
[ . I'
NORTH WEST COAST OF A\iERICA.
We were not informed of the whole extent of the plot till the follow-
ing day, when one of the failors came and gave a voluntary account of it.
Almoft all the crew had (igned a paper, by which they bound themfelves
to join in getting pofleflion of the fliip, when they were immediately to
quit the coaft of America, and fteer their courfe to the Sandwich Iflands;
from whence they prqpofed to make the bcft of their way to fome port
where they might difpofe of their valuable cargo. — As they had
taken care to deftroy the writing, wc could not difcover what their in-
tentions were with refpe<fl to the officers, — but the beft treatment
they could have expe(Eled, would have been to be left at Nootka. Every
individual of the crew, remaining on board, was eager to exculpate him-
felf; and they all joined in declaring, that the menaces of the ringleaders
alone wrung from them a temporary confcnt to join in the mutiny;
and the fear of being inftantly murdered, was the only caufe of preventing
them from giving notice of the plot to the officers of the fliip.
1^9
1788.
July.
Tuerd:ty 39
Had we been acquainted with thefe circumftances on the preceding
evening, in all probability it would not have pafled without bloodflied ;
but our ignorance of them fortunately preferved us from fuch a cataftrophe.
The ringleaders were now, atleaft, removed from any opportunity of doing
mifchief, by being clear of the (hip ; for, befidcs the attention they
would have required, had they been kept in irons, — we could not, even
in fuch a fituation, have prevented their communication with the other
fcamen; which might have been employed in creating difcontents, if not
in endeavouring to form new plans for efFeding their atrocious purpofes.
We determined therefore that they fliould remain on (hore, at leaft till
the arrival of the Iphigenia.
i
' *i
1
CHAP.
i.
J
•1 . I
'» ^)
190
1788.
Jwtv.
VOYAGES TO THE
CHAP. XVIII.
/ > ;
Conduit cj the Party on Shore refpeil'ing the Mutity. — Promfe made to the Crew
to go to the Sandwich IJlands. — Occupation of the Ship's Company, — 'J'Ae
Mutineers go to live with Maquilla and Callicum. — They are Jiripped of their
deaths, and made to work. — Princefs Royal feen in the Offing. — Prepare for
Sea. — Sluit King George's Sound a fecond Time. — Prefents made to Maquilla
and Callicum, — Thofe Chief s prepare for War. — Arms lent to them,, — Strength
of Maquilla' s Forces. — He departs on his Expedition to the Northward.—'
InJlru£iions given to the Party on Shore.
i-A
THIS difturbance on board the fliip occafioned, at firft, no little un-
eafincfs as to the influence it might have on the remaining part of
our voyage; but we were not only confoled, but encouraged in favourable
expedations, by the conduct of the party on (hore, who not only declared
their dcteftation and abhorrence of the mutinous defigns, in the moft
forcible terms, but took every method which their underftandings could
fuggeft, to fatisfy us of their obedient difpodtlon and fenfe of duty. —
They renewed their affurances of fidelity to us In the moft folemn man-
ner, and we did not withhold the confidence we believed them to deferve.
This mutiny furprlfed us the more, as no relaxation of duty had taken
place fince our departure from China. The crew had been kept ftridlly
to the various occupations which our circumftances required, but with-
out that rigour which begets difcontent ; and they moft certainly did
not enjoy the leifure which idlencfs fo often appropriates to mifchlef. As
5 to
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to the folly of their defign, that is not a matter which will juftify a mo-
merit's wonder. It is very fortunate for mankind that wickednefs fo
often wants judgment : in this cafe, the defign of running away with
the (hip arofe from little more than the impatience of their paflions to
get to the Sandwicli Iflands, which we had declared to be a part of our
voyage, and where they longed to folace themfelves in the enjoyments af-
forded by thofe voluptuous abodes. — As to any fubfequent arrangements,
they had probably left them, with all the improvidence of a failor's
character, to the chance of future determination.
Indeed, — nor was it unnatural, — the obedient as well as diforderly
part of the crew, looked with fome degree of impatience to a period
when they ftiould change the defart (hores of Nootka, and the nau-
featingcuftoms of its inhabitants, for the genial climate, the luxurious
abundance, and the gratifying pleafures of the Sandwich Iflands. Nor
was our depaiture from St. George's Sound lefs anxioufly defired by many
of the crew, from the refleftion that cannibals inhabited its fhorcs, — and
that the fate which had befallen their countrymen at Qo^eenhithe, might,
from fome untoward caufe or other, happen to them. Indeed, as wu
have before obferved, the idea of being eaten by the Americans abfohitely
haunted the imaginations and preyed upon the fpirits of many of our
people. — We therefore thought proper to renew our promifes of going
to the Sandwich Iflands, and the eyes of every one fparkled at the
thought.
191
1783.
JULV.
The diminution of our flilp's company, from the prefs of employ-
ment on fliore, and feparation of the mutinous feamen, prevented us
from leaving King George's Sound, to make another voyage to Port
Cox, as we had intended. The fails were therefore unbent, the running-
rigging unreefed, and we prepared to give the carpenters every aflifl:-
ance
JtLV.
Aii
VOYAGES TO THE
aiice in our power towards fiiiKhing the veflel on the (locks. For this
piirpofe, additional faw-pits were dug, and men fent to be employed in
them ; new fupplies of timber were alfo brought from the woods, and
an additional party was fpared from the (hip to aflift in making cordage,
and the other occupations of our little dock-yard. At the fame time,
tlic ncctflary ftores were h\ndcd for the ufe of the houfe ; and as the
fmiths had exiiauftcd thcmrtlvcs of iron, their workfliop was repleniflicd
with a confiderable quantity of tliat eflential article.
Though at our departure from Clilna wc pofTcfTcd plenty of ftorcs
of every kind, tlicir confumption had been fo great in the various
fervices which demanded them, tliat we were, at length, under the ne-
cefiity of rcforting to the produce of the country, and the exertions of
cur own ingenuity, to fupply tlieir dccreafing or cxhauftcd ftate. AH our
fea-cual being expended, we made charcoal with great facility, which
the fmiths preferred to the otlier. The turpentine, which we got from
trees in great abundance, was found to be of great fervice in paying the
planks, to keep them from rending ; and, when mixed with oil, of wiiich
we could procure any quantity, it proved a veryufeful fuccedaneum for
tar. — Tlie red ochre which the natives employed to paint their faces, we
purchafed from them: — In fhort, there were very few, if any articles,
to be procured at Nootka, which we did not contrive to turn to very
good account, and which we purpofely purchafed, to prelerve the com-
munication of good offices between us and the people, and to keep alive
their adivity to ferve us.
Neceffity, that mother of invention, taught us, in this remote corner
of the globe, to look for aid to thofe fources on which we did not
deign to caft an eye, while we podefled a ftore of fuch materials as
flow from the fuperior knowledge of cultivated fociety : while perfe-
verance, that all-fubduing principle of human a£lion, produced for us,
on
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
on the unfrequented fliorcs of America, fomcwliat of the conveniencles,
and a fuccelsful imitation of thofe arts which may be coiifidered as the
natural growth of Europe.
The mutinous feamen immediately built themfelvcs a large hut, in
which they refided, beneath whofe leafy roof they had full leiiurc to con-
template on their part villainy ; and, as their different chara(flers might
operate, to curfe the ill-fortune that bcfcl, or lament the wicked
fpirit that mifled them. They, indeed, fuffered fcverely for their dil'o-
bedient conduct, and feemed to cafl: a wifliful eye to the floating habita-
tion from which they were baniflied ; for all communication was now
(hut up between them and the houfe, as well as the (hip ; — but wc well
knew that a very little portion of induftry would be fuflicient to fupply
them with fifli ; and to enable them to gain a fupport from the lea,
we purchafcd a canoe, and fent it to them, as the lall favour or attention
they were to exped from us.
On the day after the mutiny had appeared, Maquilla and Callicuni
came on board, to prove their fricndfliip, by offering luch fervlccs as the
peculiar exigency of our fituation might require. Till tliis circumftancc
led us to explain the real condition of our feamen, the chiefs had confi«
dcred them in the light of flaves ; and had already complimented us,
with fome mixture of furprife, on the extraordinary mildnefs of our
conduft towards the crime of rebellion in a people of their fuppofed con-
dition. Nay Maquilla, from an apparent horror of the olFeiice, and a
forward zeal for our fecurity, had taken fome of tlie officers afide, and
ferioufly asked permiffion to colled: fome of his people, and put the
mutineers to inftant death. The rcqueft, as may be fuppofed, was not
only rcfufed, but treated with tlie ftrongcft marks of difpleafurc; and fc)
well difpofed was Maquilla to put his project in execution, that wc were
193
1788.
JULT.
Bb
ob'liicd
194
1^
1788.
Jwi,v.
VOYAGES TO THE
obliged to accompany our refufal with repeated figns of abhorrence, in
order to prevent it. Callicum, however, aded in the bufincfs with more
prudence and undcrftanding : — He wifhed to affift in punifhing the of-
fenders by a mode that he knew could not be difagreeable, and would be
fufficiently mortifying to them. When, therefore, he underftood that
thefe unhappy people were baniflicd from the (hip, he requefted our per-
miflif o receive them into his houfe ; and as wc were well aflured
tha .- bell hofpitnllty even of a Nootkan chief, would be a very fevere
puniflimcnt to a Britlfli failor, — we readily confented to his propofition,
on his affuring us, at the fame time, that his new guefts fliould be
fecure from any perfonal injury whatever. .
)i
.' ^1
This bufinefs being arranged, we left the difcarded people to their new
guardians, and turned our thoughts to matters of more immediate im-
portance. On the following day, to our great furprife, and as we
are ready to acknowledge, to our no little fatisfa£lion, we faw our fturdy
and refolute mutineers employed in fetching water, and other menial
ferviccs, in the execution of vvliich, flaves alone are employed at Nootka.
Nor were they fuffercd to quit the houfe of Callicum on any occafion
whatever, without being attended by natives of the loweft condition, to
whofe care and command they were entrufted. This compuifory la-
hour muft have been a very mortifying clrcumftance to them ; as, rather
than employ the canoe we had given them to get fifti for themfelves,
they had been fo lazy as to part with fome of their cloathing to pur-
chafe that article from the natives. The chiefs, however, foon took
care to fecure their cloaths to themfelves ; and, without being guilty of
injuftice to our friends, we are obliged to attribute their feveral propofals
concerning the offenders, though we did not at firft fufpedt their motives,
to the defire of getting pofleffion of the feveral garments that covered
them. That objeA was eafily obtained ; and when thefe unhappy men
s had
I
/ ■ > ■
'••s'^V*, ■
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
»9S
had given up tlieir all, they were forced to go to fea, to afllft in pro- 1788.
curing fifli, — not for themfelves, but for the families of their new
maftcrs.
A ij (; u i r .
We continued our various operations with the moft indefatigable in- WeJneWayc
duftry and attention, and nothing material happened till the 6th of
Auguft ; when, about noon, a fail was feen in the offing, which we knew
to be the Princcfs Royal. She appeared, at fiift, as if (landing in for
the Sound, but the weather becoming foon after thick and hazy, wc loft
fight of her On the arrival of iliis vtflel on the coaft, we determined
immediately to prepare for fea, as the prcfcnce of this Hiip would be an
additional fecurity to our party ; and, notwithftanding the diminifhcd
ftate of our crew, we were now refolved to venture to Port Cox, to poflefs
ourfelves of the furs which, wc had every rcafon to believe, muft
have been collected for us by Wicanani(h : a plan which would have been
already executed, if we had not been impeded by the mutinous condudl
of our crew.
m
u^'J?
Qn the 7th, the Princefs Royal again appeared in the offing, and Tiiurfdan
was again obfcured from our view, by the return of thick, mifty
weather.
On the 8th, we were ready for fea, — and as we faw nothing of the '"'"''•; *
Princefs Royal, we became very apprehenfive that (he might reach
the (hores of Wicananifli before us, and be able to tempt that chief,
by various articles of novelty on board her, to intrude upon the treaty
he had made with us. We, therefore, did not delay a moment to
fail from the Sound, with a gentle breeze of wind from the Weft-
ward, and proceeded to Port Cox.
B b 2 Previous
IL'^J
fj
196
VOYAGESTOTHE
Pivvioiis to our departure, we confirmed our friL-ndHiip with Ma-
qiiillii and Callicuin, with the ufual interchange of prdents. Thefe
diicfs had been for fome time preparing for an hoflile expedition
agaiiift an enemy at a coiifidcrahlc diftancc to the Northward, and were
jiow on tlic point of fitiinp; forward. Some of the nations in the
vicinity of the Nortliern Archipclngo, had, it fecms, invaded a vil-
la ;c about twenty leagues to the Northward of King George's Sound,
under the jurifdi£lion, and which had been left to the particular go
vcrnmcnt of his grandmotlicr.
At this place tlie enemy had done confiderable mifchicf, — murdering
fome of the peopl'.', and carrying others into captivity. On the arrival
of a meflcngcr at Nootka with the news of thefe hoftilities, the inha-
bitants became inftantly inflamed with a moft aflivc impatience for
revetige ; and nothing was thought of amongft them, but the means
of gratifying ir. -..
We embraced tliis opprotunity of binding the chiefs, if pofilblc,
unaltenibly to us, by furnifhing them with fome fire-arms and am-
munition, which would give them a very decided advantage over
their encnues. Indeed we felt it to be our intcreft: that tliey fliouKl
not be diftuibcd and interrupted by diflant wars ; and that, if ne-
cefiity fliould compel them to battle, that tliey fhould return vic-
torious. This unexpe»ftcd acquifition of force animated them witli
new vigour ; for they had already confbfl'ed that they were going
to attack an enemy who was more powerful, numerous and favage than
themfclves.
We attempted to inftlll into their minds the humanity of war, —
atid they had adurdly promifed to punifli the enemies they (hould
take
l.^'i^i
M
I \
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
take ill bnttlc with captivity, and not, as had been tlicir general prac-
tice, witli dentil. But it could not be fiippofed that the doiftrincs of
our humane policy would be remembered by a favage nation burn-
ing with revenge, in the moment of battle ; and we are forry to add,
that this expedition ended in a moft fliocking feenc of blood and
maiTacre.
•!f?
1788.
A u (. u » r
1
The power that Maquilla carried with him on this occafion, was o£
a formidable nature. His war canoes contained each thirty young,
athletic men, and there were twenty of thefe vefleli?, which had been
drawn from the different villages under the fubjciflion of Maquilla. —
Comekela had the command of two boats: — They moved off from the
fhore in folcinn order, fiiiging their fong of war. The chiefs were
cloathcd in fca-otttr ikins; and the whole army had their fiiccs and
bodies painted with red ochre, and fprlnkled with a Ihiniiig fand, which,
particularly when the fun (hone on them, produced a fif rcc aiul terrible
appearance. While the women encouraged the warriors, in the patriotic
-""Ci'^C -'* ^'^"^ Spartan dames,— to return vidorious, or to return no
more.
'i
The battles, or rather the attacks of thcfc favage tribes, are we believe
inconceivably furious, and attended with the moft fliocking a(5lions of
barbarous ferocity. They do not carry on hoftilities by regular confli^fls ;
but their revenge is gratified, their fanguiiiary appetites quenched, or
their laurels obtained by the operations of fuddca cntcrprizc and adive
ftratagcm.
The Inftruflions we left with our party on fhore were fuch .is the
circumftances of the cafe required. They were reque{>cd to maintain,
and if polfible to augment their former vigilance ; particularlv if any
5 ikanecr;.
if,:
*
. m.
-... .i«niMy-*-<
,p8. VOYAGESTOTHE
1788. Arangeri (hould arrive in the Sound. And if it (hould happen that
AvoviT. Q^f friends were vanquiflied, and purfucd to Nootka, that they (hould
take a decided and adlive part in their fupport. They were alfu de-
fired not to let their humanity operate to the renewal of any com-
munication with the baniOied fcamen,— but to leave them to the
lamented hardfliips of tlieir condition, and the painful druggies of their
repentance.
i^
*!■ , I..
CHAP.
' \
NORTH VEST COAST OF AMERICA.
C i{ A P. XIX.
199
1788.
AVOVIT.
Set f nil for Port Cox. — Meet the Prirtcefs Roya!.— Reciprocal good Offices.—
Anchor in Port Cox. — Princefs Royal anchors in Port Hanna. — IFicananiJI)
removed to Clioquatt.— Long-boat fent there at two different 'times, with
Pnfents, &c. — Defcription of Clioquatt. — Occupations of the Natives, —
Brijk Trade with them. — The Long-boat fent a third Time to IVicananiflj^
on taking leave. — Mejfage from that Chief who aflerivards arrives on
board.-— His Son propofes to embark with us, which ive decline. — Put to
Sea, and Anchor again in King George's Sound. — The Arrival cf the Iphi-
GiSMiXK.^Ttanna s affedionate Behaviour, £sV. — Arrival of ATaquitla and
CalUcumt and an Account of their Expedition.—Tianna's Abhorrence of
American Manners. — People of America, Cannibals. — The Inhabitants of
the Sandwich ijlands refcued from that Ajperjion.
WE had butjuft cleared the mouth of the Sound, wlien a thick fog
arofe, which obliged us to heave to. — In tlie evening, however,
it cleared away, when we faw the Princefs Royal within two or three
miles of us, to the windward ; and, on perceiving us, (he fired a gun to
leeward and hoifted her enfign. We returned the ilgnal, and fhe imme-
diately bore up and fpokc to us.
I inftantly ordered out the boat, and went on board the Princefs
Royal. I had no perfonal knowledge of Captain Duncan, wlio com-
manded
I
'!}■
^
II ti»* ■ -
209
VOYAGES TO THE
17S8.
.\vc.;
n.
f I
m
mvAdcd her ; — but 1 had received full information in China of the ob-
jefi: and extent of her voyage ; and I now felt the mofl: anxious dcfire to
olrlr any Icrvicc to liim and his little crew which he might want, or it
niii;ht be in my power to atTord. — Far from feeling the mofl: dillant im-
pulfe of any milerable confideration, arifing from a competition of in-
tercHs, I proftfs myfclftohave been animated by nootlier defires but thofe
which arofo horn my duty, as a man and an Englifliman. The Princefs
Ivoyal was not quite fifty tons burthen, and manned by fifteen men ; and
u hen it is known that (he liad doubled Cape Horn, and navigated the great
Northern and Southern Pacific Oceans, fome idea may be formed of the dif-
trcflba her people mull have lufl'ercd, as well as of the ability and inde-
fatigable i'pirit of the commander. Indeed tliere is every reafon to be-
lieve tliat this little vcflcl accompliflied more for the benefit of her
owners, tlian any fliip that ever failed to the North Weflern Coafl: of
America.
Captain Duncan received mc, with the wiiole of his crew, upon
deck, — whom I could not but regard, as he conduced me to his cabin,
witli an eve of applaufive aftonifliment. The firft qucflion which Captain
Duncan afrced me was, concerning the fate of the (hip Nootka, about
which he exprefled an extreme anxiety. lie had heard of the various
misfortunes that had befell her, and was exprefling his doubts as to the
pofiiljility of her reaching China, — when I at once calmed his friendly
apprehcnfions, by afluring him I myfelf commanded the Nootka in that
diftrefsful voyage which had excited his compaflion ; an:' that he beheld
mc engaged, at this moment, in an amicable conteil: with him for the
favours of fortune. His aOonifhmcnt almofl fuperfLdcd his belief on the
occafion ; and, knowing what I iiad fufFered in my former voyage, he
could fcarco conceive it to be within the rcacii of poUibility, that I Ihould
be already re-emba/kcd in an adventure on the American Coafl.
The
.■y' i
I iir~ - fii .
L*af*
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
HOI
The Princefs Royal had been out near twenty months from England,
and was in want of many articles, without which it is aftonifhing (he
could have continued her voyage. — Tliough haraffed with flitiguing duty,
and in a climate and feafon where the feverity of the weather required
the aid of invigorating cordials, their ftock of liquors had long been ex-
haufted. We were extremely happy in being able to fupply them with
a fniall quantity ; when Captain Duncan, in return, made us an unre-
ferved offer of any thing his little veflel afforded *.
1788.
AuCViT.
»■;
Dcftined as we were to be employed on a remote and unfrequented
coafl, and liable to all the hardfliips and inclemencies of fuch a fituation,
we felt an equal fympathy for our common allotment, and a mutual in.
clination to relieve, as far our power extended, tlie mutual inconvc-
niencies of it.
1*^',
We now feparated, when the Princefs Royal purfued her courfe to
the South South Eaft, and we continued along fhore.— She had nearly
brought her voyage to a conclufion, and was proceeding to the Sand-
wich Iflands, to take in refrelhments, in order to return to China with
her valuable cargoe of furs.
About nine o'clock in the evening the wind veered to the Eaft by Sou'th,
which was immediately againft us, and obliged us to tack and ftand to
fea.
'^f? ''i
'^
* On enquiring of Captain Duncan concerning his diftrefled condition, he told me that he
had met Captain Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte ; and though that (hip was on her return
to China, and abundantly flocked with every thing ; and even though fhe belonged to
tlie fame owners with the Princefs Roya>, the provident commander thought it much better
to carry all his ftorcs back to China, than to fpare any of them to the latter veflel, though
they would have been fo great an alleviation to the hardlhips of her voyage.
Cc It
?! '.'
i
m ''^
m
901
VOYAGES TO THE
'S>i
1788.
August.
Suiiduy I o
It was the morning of the loth before we got down a-breaft of Port
Cox, when we found the Prlncefs Royal had a few hours before arrived
in a* fmall bar harbour, where our friend Hanna, the chief, refided.^
Captain Duncan fent his boat off to us, as we paflld, to know if he
fhould pilot us into the hnrbour ; but as our intention was to enter Port
Cox, we contented ourfelves with thanking him for his kind attentions.
J lis boat, however, accompanied us till wc anchored in the inner port,
about five o'clock in the evening, when (he quitted us to return to her
fliip ; pading through the channels between the iflands and the main,
the diftance being about fifteen miles.
The late Eaftcrly winds had obliged the Princefs Royal to (helter her-
fclf here, as well as to procure fome wood and water, previous to her
quitting the American coaft.
On our arrival in Port Cox, we found that Wicananifli had already re-
moved to his winter quarters, which were up the harbour, and at the dif-
tance of between thirty and forty miles from the fliip.
\
Ei,J}«^ ;'•).:<'
Mond.i>ii On the nth, the long boat was difpatched to the chief, with pre-
fents ; and in the evening fhe returned, having met him at a fmall fum-
mer village, which was fituated about twenty miles from the Ibip. He
received the party with every mark of tlie moft diftinguifhing regard ; and,
in return for our prefent, fcnt on board forty otter ikins, of the moft
valuable fpccies ; and was pleafed to make known his further wifli, that
the boat might be hereafter fent to his winter's rcfidence, whither he was
then going,
lutMayu On the 1 2th, though the weather was but indifferent, the long-boat-
was ncverthelefs difpatched to Wicananifli with a variety of articles for
trade.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
203
trade, and fome flattering prefents, amongft which the copper tea-kettle 1788.
A u Q u s i .
which had already been mentioned to him, was not forgotten, and whole
arrival was eagerly expe£led by the whole family of the chief.
The long-boat did not return till the 14th, when the officer gave us Thur.Jay 14
the following account of his little voyage.
On the morning of the 13th he arrived at Clioquatt, the winter refi-
dence of Wicananifli, which coiififted, like the other towns, of fuch houfcs
as we have already defcribed, but more commoclioufly conftrufled, poflcf-
fing a greater ftiare of their rude magnificence than any which we had
yet feen. — It was very large and populous ; and the dwelling of the chief
much more capacious than that which he occupied in the village near the
fea, when we firft vifited his territories. The inhabitants were, at this
time, bufily employed in packing up-fifli in mats, — fecuring the roes of
them in bladders, — cutting whales into flices, and melting down blubbei
into oil, which they poured into feal-fkins. — All this mighty preparation
was the provident fpirit of catering for the winter: — and the incredible
quantities of thefe various provifions which our people faw coUefted, pro-
mifed, at leaft, that famine would not be an evil of the approaching I'eafon.
On thefe fhores the winter is the happy portion of the year which is ap-
propriated to luxury andeafe; nor are they then everaroufcd intoa<fcion,
but to take fome of thofe enormous whales, which, at that feafon, frequent
their feas, in order to feaft any of the neighbouring chiefs who may come
to vifit them, • , ■
Wicananifli received all our prefents with expreflions of extreme fatls-
fadion ; but the kettle was honoured with his peculiar attention, aud
borne away by him with an air of triumph, to be placed among his
C c 2 treafures j
(i
tWP
i^rr^-i:
jarvupj; ■7-'«f-^-»r jBK.1i*-
— i;.')ffB:Trviiw.m. i»
I ■w
ill: I"
t wi-m. ■ til , I
ao4
1788.
August.
Monday 1 8
V O YAG E S T O T H E
treafures; and with repeated declarations, that no confideration whateTcr
fliould again induce him to yield up fuch a valuable depofit. Twelve brafs-
hilted fwords compofed a part of our offering, which were favoured with
the moft grateful admiration ; and a great variety of articles had been pur-
pofely manufiiftured to fuit the fancy of the women, who vied with each,
other in their cordial attentions to our people. A more brilk trade was
then carried on with tlie inhabitants than we had hitherto experienced ;
a confiderable quantity of furs were obtained, and the boat returned well
freighted with the produce of the voyage, and her people perfeflly fatisfied.
with their reception from Wicananiih.
Though we had every reafbn to be contented with our commercialr
fuccefs, we determined to fend another embafly, which, if it did not
produce any immediate advantage, might leave thofe impreffions that
would eftablifli a rooted intereft in our favour with the chief and his people.
The long-boat was therefore, on the i8th, difpatched to the town, to
take our farewell meffage, and, which was of more confequence, our fare-
wel prefent to Wicananifli. Indeed we propofed, on this occafion, to
prove the difintereftednefs of our fricndfliip, by fele£ling fuch a variety of
articles as would fuit even the moft varying fancy of this fickle people. —
To thefe were alfo added feveral coats, profufely trimmed with buttons,
and the head of a large copper ftill. This fumptuous prefent was ordered,
to be made on our part with a ftrid prohibition not to receive any thing
in return.
The boat returned on the evening of the 19th, having pun£lually
executed our orders ; and having brought a meflage from the chief, that
he propofed to vifit the (hip the next day ; and therefore deiired us to de-
fer our departure for the purpofe of receiving him.
On
■% '\'
...».-'V;^ . / . •■■»>'%
;,■:*? ^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
205
On the 20th, we were accordingly vifited by Wicananifh, attended by 1788.
his brother, his two fons, three of his wives, and a great number of w^dneWayi
people from the town, who attended their chief, in order to gain
another opportunity of trading with us; and no fmall quantity of fur^
were, at this time, procured from them. The chief, however, prefented
us with feveral fea otter (kins of the moft valuable kind ; and, though
there was every reafon to believe that he intended to rival us in gencrofity,
by refufing to receive any return, he could not bring hlmfelf to fend back a
couple of mulkets and a quantity of ammunition ; which were too tempt-
ing to be refifted by the delicacy of his fentlments, and might prove too
ufeful in defending hlmfelf againft his powerful neighbour, Tatootchcj
not to be received with the moft grateful fatisfadion. He enquired, In
the moft afFedlionate maimer, how many moons would pafs away before
our return ; and follclted us, in the ftrongeft manner, to prefer his port
and harbour to every other.
i'^.r-^.i
One of his fons, a young man of about nineteen years of age, expref-
fed a very earneft defire to depart with us ; but this offer we thought it
prudent to decline, from a recolle£lion of the anxiety we had fuffercd on a
fornicr occafion, by receiving even the amiable Tianna to our care and pro-
teftion. This youth was the moft pleafing, in his figure and appearance,
of any perfon we had feen on the American coaft. He not only appeared
to be very quick and fagaclous, but to poflefs an amiable and docile dif-
pofition ; and we do not doubt, had he vifited China, but that he would
have returned with far difFerent qualifications than Comekela, to Improve
and adorn his country.
Wicananifli and his people left us with every token of fincere regret,
and repeated entreaties that we would foon return. Having bid theic
generous people farewell, we put to fea in the evening of the 20th ; and,
without
rifi
3 . 'I
'\ I,
SS^^~,:,
-".^rw ■•».■.«««!*-
4^i
so6
VOYAGES TO THE
! '■,
1788.
AVCViT.
^' * I.
without any material occurrence, anchored fafe on the 24th, in our olJ
Htuatlon in King George's Sound. Our abfence had now occupied (o
fliort a fpace of time, that we felt nothing of that anxiety for our party
at Nootka wliich we had experienced on our former feparation. We
found them all well, and the veflel confiderably advanced. The carpen-
ters had nearly planked her up, and her fitaatiou was fuch, that we pro-
pofed launching her on the 20th of September.
The exiled crew remained in the fame unpleafant fituation in which
we had left them. Grief, pain and rcmorfe had, we believe, been their
conftant companions, fince they were banifhed from tlie fliip;— at leaft
their appearance was fuch as to juftify us in forming fuch an opinion :
and when the Felice entered Friendly Cove, we obferved, as they viewed
her from the beach, that the fight of her feemed, in feme degree, to en-
liven their dejeded countenances.
The time now approached when we had every reafon to expeft the
Iphigenia, according to the inftruftions given her at our feparation.—
We began to feel that anxiety for her fate, which we, who knew the
dangers (he had to encounter, muft naturally feel, when day after day
palTed on, and we faw no appearance of her. Our anxious eyes were
continually wandering over the fea that waflied the American Coaft, in
fearch of thole fails which might mark the approach of our friends ;
but for fome time nothing was feen but a vaft expanfe of water, unenli-
vened by any objedl but, now and then, the folitary canoe of a Nootka
fifherman. Thus alternately governed by hope and fear, by the expec-
tation of foon feeing our companions again, and the apprehenfions of
never feeing them more, we paffed the bufy part of our time; and, when
our occupations were over, we ufed, iu the evening, to walk on the Hiore,
at
■ *■ i *' '1
1 ■•V '^
:^.^
--S»iJw^^ .-tp--^-*-,-*^ .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
207
It the back of Friendly Cove, and interchange thofe refledVlons which 1788.
had occurred in filence, during the labours and employment of the day. Awcuit.
In our evening walk on the 26th, while we were communicating our
thoughts, and repeating our vaticinations concerning the Iphigenia, to
our infinite joy a fail was fcen in the offing, which we were willing to
conclude could be no other than that which we expelled; and, indeed,
fo it proved ; for, on the 27th in the morning, (he anchored in Friendly Wednefdayii
Cove.
Such a meeting as this, obtained, as it deferved, a generalcelebration ; and
orders were accordingly given that all work of every kind Hiould be fuf-
pended ; that it might be a day of reft to the body, as well as of joy to the
•mind. — In fliort our little jubilee, on a diftant and dreary coaft, was pafled
with a degree of fatlsfadioii and deliglit which the fplendid feftivities
of polifhedi' nations have not always known. The relation of dangers that
were part, — the pleafing renewals of private friendfhip, — the fuccefs which
had attended our hazardous expeditions, — and the fair profpeft that we
fliould return home to enjoy the fruits of them, formed the fubjefls of
our eager difcourfe ; while the happy hours were enlivened by convivial
mir(h and focial pleafure. -
It was, as may be well conceived, a great addition to our happinefs,
that the crew of the Iphigenia were entirely recovered from the difor-
der which threatened them, at the time of our feparation, and now
joined us in full health and vigour. 1 he joy of Tiaimaat the fight of
thofe friends whom he had left with fuch poignant marks of regret,
was of a nature to delight all who beheld the warm etfufionsof his grate-
ful mind, but cannot be conveyed to thofe who did not behold it by any
language of mine. Nor were we infenfible to the pleafure of feeing him
X reAored
f '^
i <\
ff «■
fi
-;,■-._.■-•—
'■•wr>%-^.-mam-
.>^tM.
«o8
V O YAG E S TO THE
• 1788.
AvevJT.
i ;
dll ■ !
n^^
reftored to us, fo entirely recovered from a diforder which had filled
us with apprehenfion that we (hould never fee him again. Indeed, from
the general cha!\ge in his looks, and ftill wearing his fur cap and
other warm cloathing, with which he had clad himfelf, during the cold
feafon, while the Iphigenia was in Prince William's Sound and Cook's
River, — we did not immediately recognize the chief; but the violence of
his joy foon difcovered him to us ; and though it might be more exprcf-
five, it was not more fincere than our own. Indeed, fuch had ever been
the conciliating power of his manners, that there was not a feaman in
either fliip, that did not love Tianna as himfelf.
We had fuppofed that his fatisfa(f\ion on feeing us once again, was
compleat ; but we found it ftiU capable of iiicreafe ; — for when he was
Informed that we propofed, in a very fliort time, to proceed to the Sand-
wich Iflands,— his expreflions of delight knew no bounds; — they were
wild, fantaftic and exceffive ; and it was fome time before they funk
into that Aate of moderation which qualified him to receive any frefli
impreffions of pleafure. The new veflel was referved for that purpofe ;
and when it was pointed out, and he was made acquainted with its ob-
je£t, he regarded it with fuch a firm and fixed attention, as if his eyes
would have darted from their fockets to the veflel : and till fhe was
launched, he continued the conflant companion of the carpenters, ex«
amining their operations and obferving their progrefs. We encouraged
this difpofition ; and it is fcarcely to be credited how much of a carpen-
ter's profefTion he learned during the (hort time we remained at King
George's Sound.
On the 27th, while we were vifiting the village, Maquilla and Cal-
licum returned from their war expedition ; and, on entering the Sound, the
little army gave the ftiout of viftory. They certainly had obtained fome ad-
vantages.
t ^
M sift "< ■•' 1 • *■ ' i
\ ^
' t^'j^ ^'::3ft'»^**'»-' " I'lT
4- |1
.--- /-
^f0 I I ■iiiiir|n-ii IB I ij) aiiJMiarm'i' II iiiiiiaai*! I ■ inrliii'i m _ — ri-^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
vantages, as they brought home in their canoes feveral baikets, which
they would not open in our prefence, and were fufpefted by us, as it
afterwards proved, by the confefTion of Callicum, to contain the heads
of enemies whom they had flain in battle, to the amount of thirty ; but
this vi«£tory was not purchafed without fome lofs on the fide of the
powers of Nootka.
The chiefs now returned the arms they had received from us, but
the ammunition was entirely expended : — we perceived, indeed, that the
muikets had been fired feveral times ; and Callicum afl'ured us that ther
bad taken ample vengeance for the hoflilities exercifcd againft them ; and
had, befides, made a great booty of fea-ctter fkins, in which they were
all arrayed.
The Sandwich Ifland Chief did not, as we firftcxpe£tcd,dircoverany fur-
prife at the fight of Maquilla and his army ;. but the frequent communica-
tion of the Iphigenia with the natives along the coaft, from Cook's River
to King George's Sound, had rendered them and their manners no longer
an objeft of novelty, as they had never been an obje»ll of confideration in
the eyes ofTianna. Indeed, when he, with his fine coloflal figure,
flood by Maquilla, who was rather of a low ftature, the difference was
fuch, as not only to ftrike every beholder, but even to afFcd themfelves
with the different fenfations of an exulting or a wounded pride, which
would prevent any very cordial alTedlion from taking place between them.
Tianna and Comekela were old acquaintance, but by no means intimate
friends, as the former held the latter in a very low degree of ejftimation ;
and, accordingly, we did not obferve any very cordial appearance of joy at
their prefent meeting. As Comekela had been at the Sandwich Iflands,
oil his firft leaving America, the fhip having flopped there for refrefh-
inents. he was qualified to give Maquilla an account not only ofTianna,
D d but
209
1788.
AweuiT.
H
'f
t
,1
"^'i\
m
'i
-»j -^-^m-ts W ?•»»:
I
aio
V O YAG E S TO THE
1
ilk'.
it
' . t '
1 788. but the country from whence he cnme, and he did it probably to the
August, difadvantagc of both. At all events, Tianna held the cuftoms of
Nootka iu deteftation ; and could not bear the idea of their cannibal
appetites, without exprefling the moft violent fenfations of difguft and
abhorrence.
Indeed, there was no comparlfon to be made between the inhabitants
and cuftoms of the Sandwich Iflands and thofe among whom we now
refided, or of any part of the continent of America. — The former are
their fuperiors in every thing that regards what we ihould call the com-
forts of life, and their approach to civilization. They attend to a circum-
ftance which particularly diftinguiflics poliflied from favage life, and
that is clerailincfs : — they are not only clean to an extreme in their
food, but alfo in their perfons and houles the fame happy difpofition
prevails : — while the North Wtftern Americans are nafty to a degrc ?
that rivals the moft filthy brutes, and, of courfe, prohibits any defcriptiou
from us. Indeed, the very difgufting nature of their food is not di-
miniftied by the manner in which it is eaten, or rather devoured. —
Befides, their beinj;; cannibals, if no other circumftance of inferiority could
be produced, throws them to a vaft Jiftance from the rank vvliich is held
in the fcale of human bting by the c^iuntrymcn of Tianna : nor fliouUl
we pafs over in this place the frequent and folemn declarations of this
chief, that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands poflefs the moft abhorrent
fentiments of cannibal nature ; and though they may immolate human
beings en the altars of their deity, they have not the Icaft idea of
making fuch a facrifice to tlieir own appetiies. Indeed, we truft it will
not prove a vain hope, that thefe amiable people may foon be taught to
abandon even their religious inhumanity ; and that near half a million of
human beings, inhabiting the Sandwich Iflands, may one day be ranked
among the civilized fubjefts of die Britifti empire.
CHAP.
*.".<N»«» m^ttm'mmmffH'
itii^ri"T"ir.rsfT'fii'^'^'^'*'^'"i'^i^ii I'liiMiim ^-y-T^ai*^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
178
Auourr,
CHAP. XX.
'tlic Crew of the Jphigenia employed on the new Fejfei— Arrangement i made
relative to the Ships. — Inhabitants prepare to retire to their Winter garters,
— DiJ'pnfitioHs relative t» the exiled Part of the Cretv, who are again received
on hoard, on certain Conditions. — Maquilla and CalHcum pay us a Vijit pre-
vious to their Departure. — Prcfents made to tkefe Chiefs. — The Sagacity of
the latter. — Ungrateful Behaviour ofComekela. — /I Sailfeen in the Offing.—
Boatfent out to afjift her. — 'The IVafmgton enters the Sound. — Some Ac-
count of her Voyage, lie. — The new Veffcl named and launched. — A Crew>
appointed to her. — Orders delivered to the Jphigenia. — Tianna embarks on
board her. — Efcape of the degraded Boatfwain ; — Afjifled by the Mafter of
the lVafl:ington. — i^«/V King George's Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich
JJIands,
1 ' ( : M-V|-
THE arrival of the Jphigenia not only infufed into our minds new life
and fpirits, but enabled us to proceed in our different operations with
redoubled vigour. We now formed a very ftrong party ; and, therefore,
had no doubt of being able to launch the vefl'el by the time we pro-
pofed.
The voyage of the Iphigenia had alfo afforded us additional and very
promifing expeftations of rendering the North Weft Coaft of America
a very important commercial ftation. She had very completely coafted
the American ftiore, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, and
D d 2 had
I
!lltii!t*
-ij>r«S' •» :.«n>«-
IIS
1789.
Auevir.
VOYAGES TO THE
hnd brought us the moA indubitable proofi of the exigence of tht
Grent Northern Archipelago :— But this new, important, and very in-
tcrtfling obje£l has already, we tru{l, fatisfied the attention of our
readers, in one of the introductory Memoirs prefixed to this vo-
lume.
The artilicers of the Ipliigen'w were immediately employed to aflift
thofe of the Felice in forwarding the completion of the veffel. Indeed,
they rather felt a jeifloufy on feeing the works we had formed ; which
afttd as a ftimulative to take an a£live Ihare in the honour of them : fo
tint the bullnefs of our temporary dock piomifcd a very fpeedy comple-
tion. Nor were the feamcn idle : fonie were added to the rope-makers,
and others ftrengthencd the party appointed to cut down fpars for pre-
ftnt ufe ; and, in particular, to procure a new fore-maft for the Felice,
who, as we have related, had Iprung her's, very foon after our departure
from Samboingan. ^
The feafon for retiring from the American coaft was now approaching;
and we had fufRcient bufinefs on our hands to fill up the interval. Not
only the new vefl'el was to be launched, manned, and equipped fur a
voyage of near fifteen hundred leagues, but the two fhips were alTo to
be prepared for fea ; and when our fituation, as well as the nature of our
refources are confidcred, we muft be allowed to have had no fmall diffi-
culties to encounter; and that, from having conquered them, we have
fome claim, at leaft, to the praife that is due to unremitting iuduftry,
and refolute perfeverance.
A new fuit of fails was foon completed for the veflel on the (locks,
which, as Ihe was to be rigged as a fchooner, was the more readily ac-
compli fhed ;
P'^il
r*'
J^A
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
however, thus far, and thus happily advanced in our fevcral
prfpnt.i'io'is for our approaching voyaj;eB, it became a matter of imme-
diate cmifidcration to form the ncccflary arrangements of the two fliips,
not omIv for the prtfcnt fcafoii, but alfo for t!ie cnfuing year. A very
valuable c.irgo of furs had In-cn colle£lcd, whicli it was our intcrcfl ta
traiifp ^rt to market with all po.'UljIe dilpatch ; — it was, thcrcfori;, dc-
tcrminud that the rdicc, as fuuii as the new veflcl was hiunclicd, Ihould
dircftly proceed ti* China; an J that the Iphigcnia, with the fchooncr>
iliould roniain tu prudcutc the general objc£ls of our commerce.
aij
complifxd; but, independent of tier ftortn'fails, thii was all we could 1788.
do for her in that branch of rigging.
! .
^|!
Tl/is arrangement being fcttk-d, every exertion was immediately made
to pn pare tlic Felice fn fea. For this purpofe the l^ul-makcrs bcgau
upon ht-r riggiig.aud tlie caulkers applied thtmfelves to her upper-works,
which, as well as her bends, were very leaky. As it was more than
probable that we (hould enter the C'hina feas at a very tempcftkious fcafoti
of the year, we were very attentive to the making every neccfliry pnv
vifion for that, as we did for every other pofllble exigency of the voy.nge.
In fhort, we followed up this bufincfs with fuch unremitting and ,\0.\\e
induftry, that by the 4th of September the (1 ip was rtaily for fca, having
got her head fore-maft in, and being completely ftored with wood and
water.
'lluulUjy 4.
The natives now began to make preparations for retiring from their
prefcnt fituation into the more interior put of the Sound j and we daily
faw fame of their cnibarkati -ns, wl.ih we have dill rib*, d in a former
chapter. On the ^th, Maqiii' a aivl Callicum pai 1 us a vifit, to notify Sumbv f
iu form, that, iu a few dj) 0, tiuy, wiih all their people, (hould remove
5 to
■^)'!
tj^-
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. ^o tl"' winter refidence, which was near 30 miles from the (hip, and as
iiPTiMam: iani\y from the fea. •
On receiving this information, we thought it incumbent on us to form
feme difpofitions concerning the exiled crew. Their fufFerings applied
themfelves very forcibly to our pity ; and the humility of their folicita-
fions, with their imploring promifcs of future fidelity and good behavi-
our, were not without their efFe£l. But it required all the reflexion we
could beftow on the fubjcifl, to form a right judgment how to adl in a
crifis where individual feeling, and profeliional duty had much to fettlf,
before a final depiilon could be made. The leaving thefe unhappy people
behind, might have been confidered as cruelty to them; and the receiving
men on board, the return of whofe daring and mutinous fpirit would,
to fay no worfe, impede, if not wholly interrupt the voyage,— miglit turn
out cruelty to ourfelves.
They had, it is true, fuffered very feverely for their paft mifcondutfl ;
and when they were fummoned to hear our final determination concern-
ing them, their pale countenances and dejedted looks, accompanied
by the moft abject declarations of repentance, difarmed us, at once,
of all our refentment ; and they were received into the fhip on con-
fenting to forfeit the wages already due to them for nine months fcr-
vice, and that their future pay fhould be proportioned to their future good
behaviour. To thefe conditions they joy fully fubmitted, and once
more joined their comrades, after an interval, in which they had known
nothing but mortification and diftrefs. The power which was exercifcd
in depriving thefe men of the wages due to them previous to their vil-
lainous attempt to feizc tiie (hip, was founded in flriift juftice : for,
without confidering the wickednefs of their defign, and the fatal confe-
quences which would have attended the completion of it, their having
S prevented
IINWHia
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
*»$
prevented the ihip from putting to fea, for the benefit of their employers, 1 788.
by which interruption a confiderable lofs was fuftained, was alone fuffi- skptembh.
cient to juftify an afl:, which would make them (harers in the lofs that
they had occafioned.
On our arrival at China, however, the whole of the wages which
they had forfeited, was beftowed upon them by the commiferating gene-
rofity of the owners.
We could not, after all, excrclfe too much precaution in again re-
ceiving thcfe dangerous people amongft us. We indulged our difpofi-
tions to lenity with an apprehenfive f;\tisf;i£lion ; and, in order to leflen
the poflibility of mifchief, we diftributcd them among the two crews,
which Icflened, at leaft, the power of communication with each other.
The boatfwain, whofe conduft had been marked with previous difobe-
dience, and who was the ringleader of the mutiny, was excepted from
the general amnefty. It was thought to be neceflary, at all events, to
make him an example ; more particularly as we now difcovered that he
had added theft to his other offences. He was accordingly put under
confinement in the houfc on (liore.
Thus was this very difagreeable bufinefs finally fettled: but had we
been lefs fortunate in the firft difcovery of tlie mutiny ; — in Hiort, had
we been at fuch a diftance from the (hip, as not to have heard the firfl
alarm on the occafion, the confequences would certainly have been de-
ftru£livc of the voyage, and might have proved fatal to ourfelves.
Maquilla and Callicum now came to take their farewell of us, as they
were going to depart for the place of their winter refidcnce, and deli-
vered thcmfelvcs on the occafion in the warmeft language, and with the
i . ^ moll
h
1 ii
^1
»i6
V O YAG E S TO THE
i\
iy%i. moft MprefTive looks of friendfliip. They knew that we were (hortly
to quit their coaft, and exprefled very afFtftionate wifhes for our return.
Maquilla entreated us again and again, whenever we propofed to get the
little mamatlee or fhip into the watt-r, to fend to him, and he would
come down with all his people to give us tlie neceffiry alTiflance. They
had, indeed, been cotiflantly anticipating the difficulty that would attend
us, as they expreffed themfelves, in pufhing the veflel into the water,
whenever ihe fliould be compleated. Thefe chiefs had paid a very regular
attention to tlie progrefs of her conftru6tion, from the very beginning, to
her prefent ftate of approaching completion ; but without difcovering any
thing like the intelligence which grew up, as it were, and daily unfolded
itfelf in the mind of Tianna.
Whatever opinion, therefore, we had formed of the capacity of tiiefc
chiefs for tlie fentiments of friendfliip, we thought it prudent, with a
view to our future interefts, as prefents had firft obtained it, to fecure
the continuance of it, if poflible, by the fame prevailing iirfluence. —
We accordingly prefented Maquilla, with a muflcet, a fmall quantity
of ammunition, and n few blankets. Nor did Calllcum leave us with*
out receiving equal tokens of our regard.
t I.
We made thefe chiefs fenfible in how many moons we fhould return to
them ; and that we (hould then be accompanied by others of our coun-
trymen, and build more houfes, and endeavour to introduce our man*
ners and mode of living to the practice of our Nootka friends.— This la-
formation fee med to delight them beyond meafure ; and they not only
promifed us great plenty of furs on our return, but Maquilla thought
proper, on the inftant, to do obedience to us as his lords and fovereigns.
He took off his tiara of feathers, and placed It on my head ; he then dref-
fed me lu his robe of otter Ikins ; and, thus arrayed, he made me (It
dowa
'"1
!**«-w
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
down oil one of his chefts filled with liuman bones, and then placed hhn-
felf on the ground. His example was followed by all the natives pre-
fent, when they fung one of thofe plaintive fongs, which we have!
already mentioned as producing fuch a folemn and pleafiiig cffeA upon
our minds. — Such were the forms by which he intended to acknow-
ledge, in the prefence of his people, our fuperiority over him. — We now
once more took our leave, and returned on board the (hip, clad in regal
attire, and poflTefled of fovereign power. — We had, however, fcarcely
left the chief, ^yhen Callicum ca.»ie running after us to particularife his
commiflioiis, and repeat his adieu. — There wasfomething about this man
fo amiable and afFedionate, that I wiftied to remain with him to the laft ;
and I cannot help relating every trifling circumftance in this final inter-
view . — He enumerated a long lift of articles, that he defired us to
bring him when we Ihould return ; all of which I took down in writing,
to his entire fatisfa£tion. Shoes, ftockings, an hat, and other articles of
our drefs, were moft particularly requefted by him ; and, when I re-
turned him my affurance that his wiflies fliould be gratified in the moft
ample manner, he immediately departed, after having taking n\e round
the neck, and given me a moft afFedlionatc embrace. — I felt it then, when
I hoped to fee him again ;— and I feel it now— when I too well know I
(hall fee him no more.
Sif rir«tttft.
Poor Callicum had now, as at every former period, made known his wants
in a particular manner to me ; but I afterwards found that the whole village
had, more or lefs, charged the memories of our people, as well officers
as Teamen, with their various commidlons : — nor did the ladies of Nootka
forget to make their claim to our remembrance of them. And here I
cannot but mention, with fome degree of pleafure, though mingled, 1
muft own, withi a preponderating fenfation of pain, that, oil our part,
all their feveral commiifions were moft minutely executed. The Argo-
E «• naut
)?i
, -, i 3— w) ""■Sfr
i^'
L I
;,. V
1 I.
218
1788
StrriMBEJi.
' VOYAGES TO THE
gonaut contained them all ; as alfo the feveral prefents to Maquilla, Cal-
licum, Wicananifli, and the other chiefs to the Southward of King
George's Sound, known by us, as well as thofe to the Northwaj'd of it,
who had been dilcovered by the Iphigenia. The whole of which treafure
had been fele£led and adapted with great cnre, and the inoft anxious at-
tention to their fancies, as well as their neceflitics, when (he was captured
by the Spaniards. • - •.
It might be confidered, perhaps, as tending to leflen tlie abhorrent idea
which every Englifliman Ihould feel, and of which I, above all others,
ftiould be fenfible, refpeding the audacious and cruel conduft of the
Spanifli officer, by mentioning the fubordinate difappointment I felt,
when I refleded that Maquilla and Callicum did not enjoy their harmlefs
pride in thofe drefles which had been prepared for them; and that the
coffers of Wicananifti were not filled with thofe veflels which had been
exprefsly, and at no little trouble, obtained to enrich them. I (hall there-
fore pafs over the curious cargo provided for our Nootka friends, of which
we and they were robbed by the Spanifh commander ; nor defcribe the
quantity of caft-ofFcloaths, that we had coUefted at China, and loaded
with buttons to fuit their fnicy ; and of which the Spaniards pofleflTed
themfclves with Cuch an avidity, as if they were in want of this ward-
robe, which was deftined for the fivages of Nootka, to cloath fiir greater
barbarians.
Comekela, of whom we never entertained a very favourable opinion,
and of whofe deceitful conduft we had ample proof, notwith (landing our
kindnefs to him, while he was at China, during his voyage from thence,
and after his return to Nootka, confirmed us in our opinion of his ingra-
titude, by leaving the Sound, without (hewing us the leaft mark of at-
tention or refpedl : — He therefore loft, as he defer ved, the prefent which
I was
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
X19
was referved for him ; and we fufFered him to depart without any token 1788.
- , SePTIMBIK.
or remembrance from us.
We continued our operations, without the intervention of any particu- Wednefdayi?
lar circumAance, till the 17th of September, when a fail was feen in
tlie offing, which rather furprized us ; and we were not without our ap-
prehenfions that it was the Princefs Royal, who had met with feme ac-
cident that obliged her to return. The long-boat was immediately fent
to her afliftance, which, inftead of the- Britifli veffel we expeiHied, con-
veyed into the Sound a floop, named the Wafliington, from Bofton in
New England, of about one hundred tons burthen.
Mr. Grey, the mafter, informed us, that he had failed in company
with his confort, the Columbia, a (hip of three hundred tons, in the
month of Aiiguft, 1787, being equipped, under the patronage of Con-
grefs, to examine the Coaft of America, and to open a fur-trade between
New England and this part of the American Continent, in order to pro-
vide funds for their China (hips, to enable them to return home teas
and China goods. Thefe veflels were feparated in an heavy gale of wind,
in the latitude of 59° South, and had not feen each other fince the period
of their feparation ; — but as King George's Sound was the place of ren-
dezvous appointed for them, the Columbia, if (he was fafe, was every
day expedled to join her confort at Nootka.
Mr. Grey uifornied us that he had put into an harbour on the Coafl: of
New Albion, where he got on (hore, and was in danger of being loft on
the bar : he was alfo attacked by the natives, had one man killed and one
of his officers wounded, and thought himfelf fortunate in having been able
to make his efcape. This harbour could only admit velTels of a very fmall
Ee2 fize,
Ml"l
A
220
• . ' 1 VOYAGES TO THE
1788. fize, and muft lie fomewhere near the Cape, to which w« had given the
September, jj^i^jg of Cape Look-OUt.
I -Hf
The m after of the Walhington was very much furprlzed at feeing a
veflel on the ftocks, as well as on finding any one here before him ; for
they had little or no notion of any commercial expeditions whatever
to this part of America. He appeared, however, to be very fanguine in
the fuperior advantages which his countrymen from New England might
reap from this track of trade ; and was big with many mighty projeds,
in which we underftood he was protedled by the American Congrefs.
With thefe circumftances, however, as we had no immediate concern,
we did not even intrude an opinion, but treated Mr. Grey and his fliip's
company with politenefs and attention.
SatiirJayio On the lotli, at noon, an event, to which we had fo long looked with
, anxious expedlation, and had been the fruit of fo much care and la-
bour, was ripe for accompli(hment.-wThfc veflel was then waiting to
quit the ftocks ; and to give all due honour to fuch an important fcene,
we adopted, as far as was in our power, the ceremony of other dock-
yards.-^As foon as the tide was at its proper height, the Englilh en-
fign was difplayed on flidre at the houfe, and on board the new veflel,
which, at the proper moment, was named the North Weft America, as
being the firft bottom ever built and launched in this part of the globe.
• It was a moment of much expe£lation. — The circumftances of our
fituation m^dci v^» Iwk to it with more than common hope.— Maquilla,
Callicum, and a large body of their people, who bad received infor-
mation of the Uunch, were come to behold it. The Chinefe carpenters
did not very well conceive the laft operation of a bufinefs in which they
themielves had been fo much and immaterially concerned. Norfiiallwe
forget
^'§
t; K\
<ttit
'I >h
I
8;'
i , V o Y A a n * TO-Trtr
ii2e» aatimuiVlic lotnev/hcro ntar ihiii CajJ-N to which \\<e had ;, • inr
aanie of Cape I>iK>k-out. ■- '' ,
v^he.BBJtihrof clie Waftiiiigton tvas vtry" oioch furpr:?x.a at fwJTjg^
t(»|fel an'lks ftisck^r aj -n-cli .^j on luuiuif an/ one hero before hJmr'l^:
i*4ev h*d l«ae or ii« aotimt ^» jjiy 5<'i>. q^ewuat ex|«^ltio!i» .yrh»t€\ tf
to this |wt o4 America. He a,pp5ftw<ft Kow^vof, to b* \my fangismc k
tho fufJtrw.! *<lva]-.tajj03 which hi$GOHiUrv-mcn horn New Knglaii^ m\^%i
.m>^ *f^^' tfe*" -'■*^^ '^ ^^^^^ %ii4mAMg m%h many mighty pi<>i<-aH
ft>«i |>e yras prate*ftt:d by the .iVm^k/*o,.€«
.stf^'ei!, as we had no immeiJkte€v.>!i«;t:i!i»
;Jte*fri!»\ T*
«<migfa*iy^hh jSoliteae^ and wtenltor..
V': f-
ip,8
Oil ttie -K'tht :i!: nooiv sn evuit, ft> which we had fo loftg lookcJ wkif
anxipii* (Jf-^etUt^ti, ^-d had bc«ii the imit of fq mucii ca ;.-;.• ui Ifti!
hsnu ■ •■ *> I'lM .fee astsetBff&hKieat. -<*Thb' Veffirl w-as thea- Wftjtfcg fS
• v^Mr^fictS|'ar,dto gjiVfc 41 tli^e'I anoiir t& iuch an. ui4|K>rta»Mc<^«>
. ; ■■ ■ ■• . 's5; .«^.!- ■. ■ • vij<i tHw-feffeJ,
|j«,jim .1 '. ■ '>»"'» *'^'^J'' ^'^^^^. '^'^ htaueiied m this part of" the gioba
m. • ;»-^ ,.- -.U *'4- -■-
J to it with tuore than con*}?n -j^ liu|^T,w-.^aqUiiH.'i;.
,;!r of th«' paiple, s^ ''; ■ h :..J feceiv^d in/^-'
■.;; the hCl o;->t:r;)ti.i, ,.; L,.'.u«!:)^-jniWhr<»h 'K-v
ausch ;iuci i'-> ittaiv! -, ; ' .*■■;'< iicisd. KorfhaUiwN?
-»*,#
TifV
■'tV-!"
B
1!
^m^'
'■?
m
"i
^,. I
1*.-^
V '*!
./ I :
mi
;«'^fc
tik^-
*• .
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
2:1
forget to mention the Chief of the Sandwich Iflaiids, whofe every power i;S8.
was ablbrbed in the bufincfs that approached, and who had dv.terniined StniMiEt.
to be on board the veflcl when (he glided into the water. The prefence
of the Americans ought alfo to be confidcred, when we are defcribing the
attendant ceremonies of this important crlfis ; whicli, from the labour
that produced it> — the fcene that furrounJcd it, — the fpcinatois that be-
held it, and the commercial advantages, as well as civilizing ideas, con-
nefted with it, will attach fome little conl'equence to its proceeding, iu
the mind pf the philofopher, as well as in the view of the politician.
But our fufpenfe was not of long duration; — on the firing of a gun,
the veflel ftarted from the ways like a (hot. — Indeed (he went off with fo
much velocity, tliat (he had nearly made her way out of the harbour ; for
the faft was, that not being very much accuftomed to this buflnefs, we
had forgotten to place an anchor and cable on board, to bring her up,
which is the ufual pra£lice on thefe occafions : the boats, however, footi
towed her to her intended ftation ; and in a (hort time the North Weft
America was anchored clofe to the Iphlgenla and the Felice.
Tlanna, who was on board the velTel at the time of her being lauiicliecf^
not only faw, but may be faid to have felt the operation, as if it had
been the work of enchantment ; and could only exprefs his aftoni(hment^
by capering about, clapping his hands, and exclaiming My(y, Myty ; a
word the moft expre(rive in the language of the Sandwich Iflands, to
convey wonder, approbation, and delight. The Chinefe carpenters
were alfo in an almoft equal degree of aftoni(hment, as they had never be-
fore been witnefles of fuch a fpeilacle. Nor were the natives of the
Sound, who were prefent at this ceremony, Icfs imprefled by a ferics of
operations, the fimpleft of which was far above their comprehenfions. In
(hort> — this bufinefs did not fail to raife us fllll higher in their good
opinion^
k
.)
2ax
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. opinion, and to afford them better and more correct notions than they
irTiMiiH. jjjfi^pffQ poflcflTcd, of the fuperiority of civilized, over favage life.
A commander, officers and crew, were immediately feledtcd from the
Felice and Iphigenia, to navigate the North Weft America ; and each
of the Ihips font her proportion of (lores on (horc, to equip her fur fea.
'Vv'
\V ■'''■(■
And here, I truft, it will not be confidered as an impertinent digreflion,
if I cxprcfs my gratitude to that example of profcflional rigor and pcrfe-
verancc, which in my early years were fet before me, on the oppofitc fide
of this continent, where ability and courage alleviated, in funie meafure,
the chagrin of unfuccefsful war. The campaigns in Canada owe their
only honour to the naval warfare on the lakes of that country ; and it
was my good fortune, when a youth, to be enured in fuch a fchool, to
the hardfhips and difficulties of naval life, and to learn there, that temper
and perfeverance muft be added to profeflional knowledge, in order to
furmount them. — I am ready to acknowledge that, for the little fkill I
may polTefs, as a profcffional man, as well as the patience I have exercifed,
and the perfeverance which 1 have exerted, in this or any other voynge,
I am indebted to the rigid difclpline which neceflarily arofe from the
continual aflion, hazard and conflict of the fervice in which I was firft
engaged.— Some little experience has convinced me that dangers and dif-
ficulties form the beft fchool of maritime education ; and he that has
been fo employed as to have feen every thing, and lb circumftanced as to
defpift nothing, cannot fail of rendering fervice to his country.
On the 24th, the Felice being ready for fea, the orders, marked N". V.
in the Appendix, were given to Captain Douglas, to dired his future
proceedings. — The North Weft America was added to his command, and
.1.1. Tianna
i"*^-!::'-
■W"
--^i4"'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
aaj
Tlaniia once more embarked on board the Iphlgenia, as (he was deftitied 1 788.
to carry him to the Sandwich Iflands. sirriMiii.
This arrangement was preferred after fomc deliberation; for I my-
felf felt a ftrong inclination to reftore the amiable chief to his country;
but as I could not remain more than a few days at the Sandwich Iflands,
and as the Iphigenia was deftincd to winter there, it was thought a more
expedient meafure to fend him home in her ; as it would, in a particular
manner attach him to her people, and, of courfe, promote their comfort
and fecurity during the time, which would probably occupy feveral
months, of their flay there. Thefc rcafons were fufficient for us, on ac-
count of the general intereft of the expedition, to return Tianna to the
Iphigenia ; — but there were alfo other reafons for purfuing this meafure,
for his own fake.
I
I
We had been informed by one of the veiTels which returned to China
from the Sandwich Iflands, fubfequent to us, that Tianna's brother,
Taheo, fovereign of Atooi, was become fo fearful of the power he
might acquire from us, as to meditate his deftruiflion ; and that, in
all probability, fome fecret attempt would be made on his arrival to cut
him off. It was neceflary, therefore, for the prefervation of Tianna, that
he fliould be taken back in that veflcl, which, by her long flay there,
might enfure his fafety, till the jealous fit of his tyrant brother was
pafled away, and a perfect reconciliation had taken place between
them.
't b!"\k::.i>
•iil ■•iU
We now fent all the ftores we could poflibly fpare on board the Iphi-
genia ; and, in return, received her cargo of furs. We alfo took on
board a confiderable quantity of fine fpars, fit for top-mafls, for the
Chinefe market, where they are very much wa!.':ed, and, of courfe,
pro*
1788.
S. riCMBER.
Xlond.iy J4
, ... ...VOYAGES TO THE
propQitionably dear. Indeed the wo ,;!> of this part of America are ca-
pable of lupplyliig, with ihefc valuable materials, all the navies of
Europe.
. -. - . ■ , ■ ■■ . \ <: ■■ - . :■':■;/ •i:,.,:rrV:L.:n .'.iiV ■
In the evening the officers^ &c. of the Iphlgcnla and the North
Weft America came on board the Felice to bid us farewell. Tianna
was not the laft to fliew us that mark of his regard ; — and indeed, to do
juflice to his amiable difpofition and friendly nature, whenever klndnefs
could bd Ihewn, or genciofity cxprclTcd, he was among the firft.—
Nor could he fay adieu to No'-Ja, the name unlverl^illy given me, both
in America and the Sandwich Iflands, without a frame almoft convulfed
with agitation, and tears gufliing down his cheeks. — Nor could I,
thov'gh proceeding to complete my voyage with the fairefl hopes of
fuccefs, take my leave of that worthy man, and the companions of
our toilfome enterprife, without emotions that required all my reiblu-
tioii to fupprefs. - . :. -./•,.; j:r, . ' , / ' . ; ■ 7
Neither (hould I do juflice to the conduft of thofe employed in this
commercial expedition with me, if I did not mention the alacrity which
was difplaycd by tlie officers of every denomination ; — and, indeed, by all
the inferior people, to acommodate themfelvcs to our peculiar circum.-
ftances. It was neceifary to have feveral changes among the crews of
both fliips, in order to give a proper complement of officers and men to
the North Weft America, in which the general intereftof the expedition
was alone conddered by all ; — and I think it my duty to record on
this grateful page, the fenfc I have of,43nd the advantages their em-
ployers rieceived from, their manly and accommodating coudutfl 011
ti^p occaiion.
\^ ?
Wc
■ m,' »
' i"'"'^'' ' '} • nt ■■*•' -sfi
■«i"-lr"~~:
-gH"
NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. t25
We now hove up the anchor, and, with a ftrong wind blowing 1788.
from the North Weft, the Fehce put to fea. — The crews of the
Iphigetiia and the North Weft America gave us three cheers at our de-
parture, which awakened every echo of Friendly Cove. We returned
the fame anii.t'ztu^i' dieu ;— and, before it was dark, we had almoft
loft fight of Nootka Sound.
It may not be improper juft to mentioii, that the day after the arri-
val of the American veflel .it Nootka Sound, the difcarded boatfwain
broke from his confinement, and efcaped, with feveral articles he had
ftnlen, into the woods, with a view to obtain prote£tIon from the
WaHiingtou; in which, as we have (Ince been informed, he fucceeded.
For the mafter of that veflel, with what propriety I fliall not pretend to
obferve, not only fent him provifions to his hiding-place in the woods,
but, immediately on the departure of our (hips, received him on board
his veflel, in which he did duty before the maft.
F f
CHAP.
1^^ \1
226
AH; VOYAGES TO THE
1 7881
SlPtEMBIK.
u: a;'!:
ll
\\
%J,.
' •i''V\ ' >•
CHAP. XXI.
iW, ■
■ ^1
1
■jf,
' ' •*
J. :' ,
1' •
;i.
%i^ -
General Account of the Nations fcen on the North Wejlern Coajl of America. —
'fhe Four Nations of the Country of Nootka.-— -'Their Situation, Villages, and
Population, tic-^Knowledge of the People to the Southward of ^eenhithe,
in a great Degree conjeSlural. — IVicananiJIi, however, repeats the Names of
their Villages. — Some Account of the American Continent, from Cape Saint
James to the Southward. — Climates. — Seafons. — Winds. — Storms.— -Har-
bours, &c. — Navigation^ (^c. — No conjiderable Rivers in the DiJiriH of
Nootka Sound.
TT7E had now taken our leave of the Coaft of America; and, while
^ ▼ the Felice may be fuppofed to be purfuing her voyage to the
Sandwich Iflands, we (hall fill up the interval of her arrival there, with
fuch an account of the country we have juft quitted, as we are qualified
to make from our own experience, and fuch obfervations as fuggefted
themfelves to us while we were acquiring it.
The commercial adventurers to this part of America, who had been
led thither for the furs it produced, were not without that laudable and
patriot curiofity which has animated others, and indeed operated in fome
of them to add new countries to the chart of the globe ; — but, whatever
zeal they might poffefs, it was not in their power to fpare an adequate
portion
SEFTEMBSt.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. txf
portion of their time from their more important obje£ts of commercial 1788.
enterprize.
It is true, that in purfuit of them we fell in with parts of the coaft
that Captain Cook had not vifited, and communicated with people whom
he had never feen ; — but the great objeft of our voyage continually
checked any rifing impulfe to purfue the track of difcovery; and our par-
ticular duty and interefts forced us back to thofe parts of the coaft
which were more immediately connefted with the purpofes of mercantile
adventure. — Hence it is that our account of this part of the American
continent will be confined within narrow limits : — It will, however, we
truft, poflefs the merit which accuracy can give it, and aflift thofe who
may hereafter be employed to examine this remote portion of the
globe.
The parts of which we have any particular knowledge, extend from
the latitude of 45° North to 6i° North. The longitude obtained
from aftronomical obfervations, is from 205" Eaft, to 237' Eaft of
Greenwich. By this longitude we mean the Weftern boundary of the
coaft to the Northern Pacific ocean. — This country, as it extends to-
wards Hudfon's or Baffin's Bay, is as yet unexplored, and, of
courfe, unknown ; nor can we form any probable conjedture whether
fuch a fpace is occupied by land or fea, as we have already obferved,
in the introdudtory memoir which treats of the North Weft Paf-
fage, &c.
,u.;,.l il^l
With refpeft to the inhabitants of this extenfive ftiore, we have a
knowledge of four different nations, w hofe occupations and manners bear
a great fimilitude to each other.
F f 2 From
\
i
A I
I
2Z8
1788.
StrTBMBEB.
• ■ V O Y A G E S T O T H E
From every information we could obtain, there is reafon to believe that
the nation whicli inhabits Nootka SoiniJ, and which extends itfelf both
North and South of that port, is very numerous ; but does not poflefs
the flimc fiercenefsof charader as their more Northern neighbours.
.. 1
im
I
ill
iw
■l
f
F, '» i' '
i'-if
Maquilla, with whom the reader has already been made rather inti-
mately acquainted, is the fovereign of this territory ; which extends to
the Northward, as far as Cape Saint James, in the latitude of 52° 20'
North, and longitude of 228" 30' Eaft of Greenwich; and which cape forms
the Southern extremity of the great groupe of iflands that bounds the
Northern Archipelngo towards the Pacific Ocean ; and to the Southward,
the dominions of this chief ilretch away to the Iflands of Wicananifli.
There are alfo perfons of confiderable power, though inferior dignity to
the fo^'ereign chiefs:— In this ftation of honour were Callicum and Ha-
napa, who have already been particularly mentioned ; and the former of
wliom has been, we truft, a pleafing companion to the reader through
many a page of this volume. — Indeed, as we had no opportunity of vi-
fiting the interior parts, at any diftance from the Sound, we can only
communicate fuch information as we received from this amiable chief,
whcfe frank and open difpofition was ever obedient to our enquiry ; and
who, by pofleffing an underftanding fuperior to tlie reft of his country-
men, was qualified to make tliofe communications, on which, as far as
they went, we might have an unfufpedling reliance.
From him we learned that there were feveral very populous villages to
the Northward, entrufted to the government of the principal female re-
lations of Maquilla and Callicum ; fuch as grandmothers, mothers,
aunts, fifters, &c. — but the brothers, fous, and other male relations,
were, from political motives, kept near the perfon of the chief himfelf. —
i It
^■\
k%^.%
I \
NCFTII WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
It may iinU-ed be recollcL^ed, that the villnge fudiknly invaded by the
enemy, and which occafioned a war expedition from Nootka Sound, has
been mentioned in a formt;r chapter as being governed with unlimited
fway by the grandmother of Maquilla. The mother of Callicum enjoyed
a fimilar delegated power over another diftrift; and fevcral other villages
were afllgned to the dire£lion of other relations, all of which were ready
to join, as occaiion required, for the fupport of their mutual fafety,
and to yield a ready obedience to the fummons of the fovereign chief: —
The whole forming a political band of union, not very unlike to the
general fy ftem of government in Europe, at an early period of its civili-
zation, and which is well known under the appellation of the feudal
fyftem.
The number of inhabitants in King George's Sound amount to between
three and four thoufand. Captain Cook eftimates the village of Nootka
to contain about two thoufand inhabitants, and we do not think that it
had undergone any change in its population when we were upon the
coaft. But there are two other fubordinate villages in the Sound, which,
between them, appeared to us to contain fifteen hundred people. One
of them is fituated at a confiderable diftance up the Sound, in a diftridl
committed to the jurifditElion of Hanapa.
To the Northward of the Sound there are four villages, and to
the Southward of it there are an equal number, of which Maquilla
is the chief. From the beft information, each of thefe inhabited
fpots contain, on an average, about eight hundred people ; fo that the
whole of Maquilla's fubje£ls do not amount to more than ten thoufand
people ; — a very fmall number indeed to occupy fo large a fpace of
country ; — but the frequent wars which harafs thefe little ftates, and
the
229
7788.
S;:rTEMiiiK,
'ij
I/'
IJO
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. the fiercenefs of battle among cannibal nations, are fufficient to fatlsfy
SifTiMBER. us concerning the ftagnaat population of thefe people. ^
The diftri£t next to King George's Sound to the Southward, is that of
Wicananlfli : though he is not confidered as equal in rank to Maquilla, yet
he is entirely free and independent, and by far the moft potent chief of this
quarter. In the fame diftrid refide the chiefs named Detootche and
Hanna, on two fmall iflands, but who are entirely free and independent.
Thefe Iflands are fituated a little to tlie Northward of Port Cox, and
contain each of them about fifteen hundred people, and we did not unr
derftand that they had any other dependency.
The general refidence of Wicananifli is in Port Cox, where he lives
in a {late of magnificence much fuperior to any of his neighbours, and
both loved and dreaded by the other chiefs. His fubjeds, as he himfelf
informed us, amounted to about thirteen thoufand people, according to
the following eftimation : — . ,, ,
: i /
'' ri..
In Port Cox, four thoufand ; to the Southward of Port Cox to Port
Effingham, and in that Port, two thoufand; and in the other villages
which are fituated as far as the mouth of the Straits of John de Fuca, on
the Northern fide there might be about feven thoui'and people. — Here the
dominions of Wicananifli end, and thofe of the next and lafl: chief
of the Nootka territory begin, whofe name is Tatootche.
The names of the feveral villages belonging to Wicananifli were
given us by himfelf, and are as follow : — Kenoumahafat, Uth-u-wil-ett,
ChaiflTet, Elefalt, Qii-quaet, Lee-cha-ett, Equo-lett, Mow-fchuc-fe-lett,
E-lolth-lt, and Nitta-natt. Thefe names are taken down in the manner
they were pronounced by Wicananifli ; and, indeed, as we pafl'ed along
the
\ !
w
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
S3 1
the coaft, we had communication with feveral of them, whofe inhabitants | «88.
came off to us at fea, particularly from Nitta-natt, Elefoit, and E-lolth-ii. sbptemshi.
Indeed, from the apparent populoufnefs of thefc villages, which we coulc.
very well diftinguifli, we rather think that the chief, either from mo-
defty or ignorance, under-rated the population of his country.
The fubje£ls of Wicanauifli are a bold, daring people, extremely ath-
letic, and fuperior in every refpeiSl: to thofe of King George's Sound ;
and, at the fame time, not fo favage as thofe of Tatootche, who relides
on the ifland that bears his name, and is fituatcd near the South
head-land which forms the entrance of the Straits of de Fuca. With
thefe people we had very little communication, but from the crowd of
inhabitants collected to view the fhip, and the number of boats filled with
people which furrounded her, we fliall not over-rate the number of in-
habitants on this idand, by eftimating tiiem at five thoufand people.
The diflrid of this chief extends to Queenhithe ; and Wicananifh
informed us that it contained five villages, and about three thoufand
inhabitants. We faw the large village of Queenuitett, near Queenhithe,
and alfo feveral other fmaller ones, as we coafted along the fhore.
We could obtain no other knowledge of any villages to the Southward
of Queenhithe, but from the further information of Wlcananifh. lie
indeed repeated the names of feveral, which, according to his account,
were fituated a great way to the Southward, the inhabitants whereof not
only fpoke a ditTerent language from the Nootka natives, but wlio varied
alfo in manners and cuftoms. That this part of his intciligence was
correct, we had fufficient proof, when we were off Shoaluater Bay, as
the two natives who then approached the fhip, fpoke a language which
I fccmed
\i
VI
n»
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. feemed to have no affinity with that of Nootka, and appeared. In the
StPTiMBER. circumftances of drefs and the form of their canoe, to be a feparatc and
diftlnd people from the American nations which we had vifited.
The following names of the villages to the Southward of Queenhithe,
were taken down, at the moment, as Wicananlfh pronounced them ;—
Chanutt, Clanamutt, Chee-mee-fctt, Lo-the-att-flieeth, Lu-nee-chett,
Thee-wich-e-rett, Chee-fet, Lino-quoit, Nook my-ge- mat, Amuo-lkett,
Nuifl*et-tuc-fauk, Quoit- fce-noit, Na-nunc-chett, and Chu-a-na-lkett.
The knowledge which Wicananifh pofleffed of the names of thcfe places,
proves very evidently that either he or fome of his people have had fbme
communication with the inhabitants of them. But whether this was a
matter of defign or hazard, of an occafional trading intercourfe, or the
accidental effects of a ftorm, which has been frequently known to have
driven canoss to a great diftance, and carried the affriglited Indian to the
hofpitality or the deftru^tion of a remote coaft, we cannot pretend to fay ',
as it was not always in our power to make ourfelves intelligible to the
favages, or render them intelligent to ourfelves.
Thefe places are bevond the limits of that part of America comprifed
in the four nations, extending from Prince William's Sound to Queen
Charlotte's Ifles, and the Northern Archipelago ; and from thence to
Nootka and Cape Shoalwater ; fo that any hiftory of the people that in-
habit them, muft be a matter of mere conjedlure, and therefore totally
improper to interrupt the authentic narrative before us.
Of the inhabitants refiding up the Straits of de Fuca, w, could obtain
no information from the people '^f Nootka ; but from the multitude
in
y\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
133
which attacked the long-boat, we had no doubt that they were very 1788.
SirTiMBia.
numerous.
The American continent, in ahnoft every part, prefents nothing to
the eye but immenfe ranges of mountains or impenetrable forefts. —
From Cape Saint James to Queetihithe, which we have confidered as
the diftrift of Nootka, and inhabited by the fame nations, this fcene
invariably prefents itfelf, and admits of very little if any variet} n fome
places the country appears to be level on the coaft, but ftill the eye foon
finds itfelf checked by fteep hills and mountains, covered, as well as
every part of the low-land, with thick woods down to the margin of the
fea. The fummitsofthe higher mountains, indeed, were compofed of
iharp prominent ridges of rocks, which are clad in fnow inftead of ver-
dure ; — and now and then we faw a fpot clear of wood, but it was
very rare, and of finall extent.
The climate of this country, that is from Cape Saint James to the
Southward, is much milder than the Eaftern coaft on the oppofite fide
of America, in the fame parallel of latitude.
The winter generally fets in with rain and hard gales from the
South Eaft, in the month of November ; but it very feldom happens
that there is any froft till January, when it Is fo flight as very rarely
to prevent the inhabitants from navigating the Sound in their canoes.
The fmall coves and rivulets are generally frozen ; but I could not
difcover that any one remembered to have feen the Sound covered
with ice.
The winter extends only from November to March, when the ground
is covered with fnow, which difappears from off the lower lands in
G g April,
«34
1788.
StrTEMiet.
VOYAGES TO THE .
April, and vegetation is then found to have made a confiderable advance.
April and May are the fpriiig months, and in June the wild fruits are
already ripened. To the Northward of King George's Sound the cold
encreafes, and the winters are longer; as to the Southward, it ofcourfe
diminishes ; and we (hould fuppofe that to the Southward of 45° there
mud be one of the mofl pleafant climates in the world. >
The mercury in the thermometer often ftood in the middle of fum-
mer at 70°, particularly in the coves and harbours that were (heltered
from the Northern winds ; but we very feldom had it lower than 40 in
the evenings. Fires, however, were very acceptable both in May and
September ; but we attributed th'S circumftancc in a great meafure to
the South Eaft winds, which were ever attended with rain and raw
cold. The North Wefterly winds, on the contrary, blow clear, but are
rather cool. The winds whicli prevail during the fummer months, are
the Wefterly ones, which extend their influence over the Northern
Pacific Ocean, to the Northward of 30° North, as the Eafterly winds
blow invariably to the equator from this latitude.
Storms from the Southward are very frequent in the winter months,
but there is no reafon to fuppofe that they operate with fuch a degree
of violence as to prevent (hips from navigating the American coaft, in
any feafon of the year.
There are ffveral harbours in the diftri£l: of Nootka, which are ca-
pable of receiving, into perfeft fecurity, Shipping of the largeft bur-
then. King George's Sound is an abfolute colledtion of harbours and
coves, which are (heltered from the violence of all winds. Port Cox.
and Port Efiinghamare of the firft kind for capacioufnefs and fafety;
and to the Northward of Nootka to Cape Saint James, we may fafely
conjecture
l^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
m
conje£lure that there are founds and harbours equal to any which have 1781.
been already defcribed. Befides, this coaft is by no means difficult to s^'t******
navigate, from its very deep waters and bold fliores.
We cannot but confider it as a remarkable circumdance, that during
the whole length of our coafting voyage, we did not meet with a fingle
river of any magnitude. The very fmall ftreams which emptied thcm-
felves every where into the fca, were generally fupplied by rains
and fnow from the mountains. We found alfo very few fprings ; fo
that from thefe and other circumflances, with fuch accounts as we could
get from the natives, we had been frequently diCpofed to imagine, that
the land which we had confide red as the American coad, was a chain
of iflands, feparated by large and capacious channels from the con-
tinent*.
\.
* This conjedure will be confidered in one of the Introduftory Memoirs, with fome
account of the voyage of the American floop Wafliington, in the autumn of 1789, which
was not received till we were thus far advanced in our Narrative.
\ ^ '
Gg2
CHAP.
a36
ir88.
VOYAGES TO THE
CHAP. XXII.
cf
;(
I1M :
li
I
Account of the DiJIriSi of Nooika conttnued.^Fegetable ProJu^ions.'—Grear
Plenty of JVild Fruits.— Efculent Roots, Ifc.—^adruptds Deer.— Foxes,
—Martens. — The Ermine. — Squirrel, tSc. — Marine jinimals. — The JVhali\
Sword Fiji}, Seals, ^c. — Particular Account of the Sea Otter. — Various
Kinds of Birds. — Ajualic Fowls. — Fi^J of various Kinds. — Manner of
taking fame of them. — Reptiles.-— InfeSls. — Minerals.— Conj ell ures concern-
ing Mines in this Country, tic. &c..
THE vegetable produ£tions of the diftriA of Nootka, which have
come to our knowledge, arc not numerous, though we mud ac-
knowledge that our botanical enquiries were ncceffarily very confined.—
We have no doubt but that confiderable additions might be made
from this country to the colleiSted ftores both of Zoology and Botany ;
but we wanted (kill fufficient to render ourfelves ferviceable in this
pleafing range of fcience. We fhared the natural lot of all private
expeditions equipped for the purpofes of commercial adventure, in which
a knowledge of thefe branches of philofophy is not an eflential qualifi-
cation, and where even every purfuit of fcience muft give way to thofc
of mercantile advantage.
Among the trees which compofe thefe forefts, we obferved the black and
white fpruce, with the pine and cyprefs ; and a great variety with whofe
form and foliage we were wholly unacquainted ; many of which, however,
would anfwer every purpofe of the dock-yard. Timbers cut from fome
of them proved fo extremely hard, that it was with difficulty they could be
worked into fhape. We particularly remarked that in King George's
Sound,
t \
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
«37
Sound, Port Cox, and Port Effingham, the trees in general grow with 1788.
great vigour, and are of a fize fufficient for mafts of any dimenfions. «"«»«»"'•
On the rocky iflands, and in the woods, we found the wild ftrawberry
in great abundance. There were alfu currant trees of the blaclc kind,
and goofeberry bufhes, which Teemed to bear fruit only in certain parts.
There is a fpecies of ralberry of the moft delicious flavour, and far fu-
perior to any fruit of that kind we had ever before taftcd. It grows on
a larger bu(h than our European rafberry, and is free from thorns ; but
the fruit itfelf is fo delicate, that a fliower of rain wafhes it entirely
away. There is alfo a fmall red fruit, not unlike in fize, fliape and tafte,
to our currant, which grew on trees of a confiderable fize, in the greateft
abundance. It is a favourite food of the natives, and during the months of
July and Augud, the chief employment was to gather it, and a Ipecies of
blackberry, both red and white, but very much fuperior to our wild,
fruit of that kind, both in fize and flavour.
y
The quantities of berry fruits that the natives brought us, proved
their extreme plenty. To us they were a very falutary as well as
pleafant addition to our table, and the failorg fat down every day to a
pudding made of them. We alfo prefcrvcd feveral fmall caiks of the
red fruit with fugar, which lafted feveral mouths, and were very fer-
viceable to us at fea.
Wild leeks grow every where in the greateft profufion ; and the
efculent roots are in great variety, fome of which have a tafte fimilar to
the fea fpinnage. When, however, tliey could not be procured, the
tops of the young nettle proved an excellent fucccdaneum. Of thefe
the natives are immoderately fond ; after having ftripped the younger
plants of a thin coat, they eat them in their raw ftate.
Towards
»» )i » iiH-^.»^-
238
1788.
SlPTfMBIR.
VOYAGES TO THE
Towards the watcr-fule we obferved great quantities of wild wheat,
or goofo-grafs. We every wliere found in the woods wild rofes and
fweet-briar, which perfumed the air. We faw alfo the anthericum
that bears the orange-flower, and many other kinds of plants, which
our ignorance in the botanic fcieuce prevents us from enumerating or
attempting to defcribe. Indeed, the conftant employment which our
commercial concerns required of us, was wholly unfavourable to the
refcarches of natural philofophy ; but we have every reafon to believe
that any one of botanical experience, who fhould vifit this coaft in
the fummer feafon, would add to the flock of his knowledge in this
ufeful and delightful fcience.
The quadrupeds which we had an opportunity of feeing, were very
few ;— they were deer, racoons, martens, fquirrels and foxes. The deer
which we received as prefents from the chiefs were very fmall, but we
have feen others in their poflTefliou of the moofe kind, extremely large,
with branching horns. We believe, however, that the latter were not
in great plenty : indeed in all our excurfions we never were fo fuccefsful
as to bring one home, though we had feen and wounded them.
»i
The foxes are very common, and differ much in fize and colour ;
fbme are yellow, with a long, foft, and very beautiful fur : others are
of a dirty red ; and a third fort of a kind of afh colour.
The marten bears a ftrong refemblance to that of Canada, particularly
as to fize and (haps ; but it is not fo black, nor is its ikin fo valuable as
thofe brought from that country. There is alfo another fpecies of them
here, whofe hair is fo very coarfe as to be in little or no eftimation with
the natives.
The
W-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
239
The ermine Is very fcarce ; and thofe of this animal which we faw, 1788.
were rather of a yellowlfli colour, and pofleffing, in no degree, that Ssptembir.
beautiful whitenefs which makes them fo eftimable in the countries
of Europe.
Neither racoons or fquirrels appeared to be in great plenty ; the
former are tame like thofe of Eaftcrn America, and the latter arc fmaller
than our European fquirrel, but not of fo bright a colour.
During the time we remained on the coaft, we faw but two beaver
Ikins ; but they were the richeft fpecimens of that fur which we ever
remember to have feen.
:'il
The natives made frequent mention of bears, of which they gave us
tounderftand there were great numbers in the forefts, of a very fierce
nature, and with whom they fometimes had terrible battles; but we
were never fo fortunate as to fee one of them ; and though feme of
our people went out occafionally a bear hunting, they always returned
without the gratification even of having feen their game.
Our knowledge did not extend further than to the above animals,
though It is more than probable, that there are many other kinds of
them who inhabit the forefts of this country : — Indeed, we faw fklns
which ferved for the drefs, ornament, or armour of the natives, that
muft have belonged to animals which we had not fccn. Though thefe
might be got In bartering with thofe tribes who may be fuppofed to
inhabit the interior parts of the country.
The mountain iheep, though inhabitants of the Northern part of
the coaft, do not extend themfelves fo far to the Southward as the
diftrift of Nootka ; at leaft we never faw their fleece or their horns,
I which
340
V G YAG E S TO THE
1788. which are in fuch univerfal ufe with the Indians of Prince William**
*"iMM». Sound and Cook's River.
i,
\-\f ♦•^■'aI^^
The fea coafts of this country abound with numerous marine ani-
mals ; fuch as whales, both of the bone and fpermaceti kind; thrafliers,
grampulTes, porpoifes, both black and white, feals, fea-lions, fea-cows,
the river otter, and above all, the fca-otter.
During the fummer, when employed in navigating the coaft, we fav»
great numbers of whales, and were fometimes witnefles to dreadful
battles between them, the fword-fifli and the thraflier, who filled the air
with the noife of their combats. The natives, in hunting the whale,
prefer thofc fmall ones with hunches on their backs, as being the moft
ealy to kill. They purfue alio the fea-lion and the fea-cow for the
fame reafon. The vaft number of feals which are every where feen,
render them an eafy prey to the natives, who confider them as delicious
food. Their Ikins are of a Clvery colour, fpotted with black, and
covered with a coarfe hair.
The flefli of the fea-cow and fea-lion are eftcemed peculiar delica-
cies, and are even preferred to the whale; but are very fcarce to
the Southward. — More to the North they are found in great plenty.
The number of thefe animals which are deftroyed by the natives
for food, muft be very confiderable : the grampus and porpoife feem, in
fome degree, to efcape this general deftru£tion, being confidered as in-
ferior, both in point of ufefulnefs or luxury. But abundant as the
whales may be in the vicinity of Nootka, they bear no comparifoii
to the numbers feen on the Northern part of the coaft : indeed the
generality of thefe hage [marine animals delight in the frozen cli-
mates.
The
i \
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The fea-otter we believe to be an inhabitant of every part of the
North Weftern Coaft of America, from the latitude of 30° North to
60° North. Their fur is the fineft in the wrorld ; it poflefles a jetty
blacknefs, and is of exceeding beauty. The peculiar warmth it affords,
renders it amoft valuable clothing in the colder climates ; but confidercd
in an ornamental view, it has a rich and magnificent appearance, and,
under a certain arrangement, may vie even with the royal ermine.
a4t
1788.
SSFTEMBEt.
I
The ocean bordering on the American coaft is not the exclufive habi-
tation of the fca-otter : — that animal frequents the coaft of Japan and
that of China, particularly in the Yellow Sea, and the neighbourhood
of Corea ; but we have never heard that tlicy arc found farther to the
Southward. They, indeed, deligiit in, as they fcemed to be formed
for, cold climates, and are wonderfully clad to refift the feverity of the
coldeft region. There are, however, particular places to which they
never fall to refort in great numbers, as is fuppofcd, on account of the
ftioals of fifli which frequent them, and are the food of the otter.
'I\
This animal, like the river-otter, is of an amphibious nature ; but
their peculiar element is the fea. They are fometimes feen many leagues
from land, fleeping on their backs, on the furface of the water, with
their young ones reclining on their breaft. As the cubs are incapable of
fwimming till they are feveral months old, the mother muft have fome
curious method of carrying them out to fea, and returning them to their
hiding places on fliore, or in the cavities of rocks that proje£l into the
fea: indeed, they are known to fleep with their young on their breaft,
and to fwim with them on their back ; but if they (hould be unfortu-
nately overtaken by the hunters, the dam and her brood always die
together : — She will not leave her young ones in the moment of danger,
aud therefore fhares their fate.
H h From
■M(^
HZ
1788.
SlriEMUEI.
VOYAGES TO THE
From the formation of their lungs they are unable to remain under
water longer than two minutes, when they are forced to rife to the fur-
face for refpiration ; and it is this circumftance which gives their pur-
fuers fuch advantage over them ; — though the wonderful fwiftnefs with
which they fwim, very often baffles the utmoft attention and (kill of the
hunter.
V ,\
Nature has furniflied this creature with powerful weapons of offence
and deftrudtion. Its fore-paws are like thofe of the river-otter, but of
much larger fize, and greater flrength : — its hind-feet are Ikirted with a
membrane, on which, as well as on the fore-feet, there grows a thick
and coarfe hair:— its mouth contains moft formidable rows of teeth,
fuperior to any other marine carnivorous animal except the fliatk.
The fur varies in beauty according to the different gradations of life.—
The young cubs of a few months old, are covered with a long, coarfe,
white hair, which protects the fine down that lies beneath it. — The na-
tives often pluck off this coarfe hair, when the lower fur appears of a
beautiful brown colour and velvet appearance. As they encreafe in age
this long hair falls off, and the fur becomes blackifh, but ftlll remains
fhort. — When the animal is full grown, it becomes of a jet black, and
cncreafes in beauty ; the fur then thickens, and is thinly fprinkled with
white hairs. — When they are paft their ftate of perfeftion, and verge to-
wards old age, their fkin changes into a dark-brown, dingy colour,
and, of courfe, proportionably diminiflies in value.
This is the beft account we could obtain of this curious and valuable
animal ; for it would be impoflible for us to defcribe, with any degree of
fatisfaftion, the different kinds of otter Ikins brought to us for fale.
The great variety of colour, from a chefnut brown to a jet black, which
5 we
k "v V' % .-rti^.l: -
»^d
^\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
we obfcrved in them, makes it difficult for us to afcertain the precife
period of their lives when they have arrived at perfection. At firft
we really fuppofed them to be the Ikins of different animals, or of vari-
ous fpecies of the fame animal : — but we afterwards difcovercd what we
have .already dated concerning the advancement of them to beauty ; and
perhaps other circumftances may combine to haften, or retard the period
of their moft perfeft ftate. — We are difpofed to imagine that they undergo
an annual change in their fur, either by fhedding the old, or acquiring
new ; and that their (kins are confiderably afFefted by the different feafons
of the year. — We obferved that the Ikins of the otters killed during the
winter, were of a more beautiful black, and, in every refpeft, more per-
fect than thofe which were taken in the fummer or autumn.
The Chinefe, who muft be confidered as the beft judges of thefc
fkins, clafs them under eight or ten denominations, and affix to each
a proportionate value, concerning which they would never fuffer us,
in our bargains with them, to intrude an opinion. — As furriers, they
held us, and perhaps with fome reafon, in very low eftimation.
243
1788.
SirrKMBERa
mm
The male otter is, beyond all comparifon, more beautiful than the fe-
male, and is diftinguiftied by the fuperior jetty colour, as well as velvet
appearance of his Ikin ; whereas the head, throat and belly of the female,
is not only covered with a fur that is white, but which is alfo of a very
coarfe texture. The (kins in the higheft eftimation, are thofe which
have the belly and throat plentifully interfperfcd with a kind of brilliant
filver hairs, while the body is covered with a thick black fur, of extreme
finenefs, and a filky glofs. — Indeed in this ftate, the fur of the fea otter is,
taken in all its circumftances, fuperior for cloathing, to tliat of any other
animal in the world.
H h 2 It
244 VOYAGE STOTHE
1788. It is however faid in China, that the fkins of this animal taken
SiFTEMBER. j^ jj^g Corcaii and Japan feas, are fuperior to thofe of Ruflia or the North
Weftern Coaft of America.
The abundance of thefe animals, which frequent every part of the Ame-
rican coaft, occafion their being caught without much difficulty by the
natives ; who not only owe the magnificence of their appearance, as well
as a moft comfortable prote£kion againft the feverity of their winters, to
the (kin of the fea-otter, but alfo find in its flefti what they confider as
moft delicious food.
It differs from the river otter, or capucca, as called by the people of
Nootka, and which is the fame as that of Canada : in its form, fize, and
fur, It is far fuperior.
i
I
'i
The fpecies of birds which frequent the American ftiore are very con-
fined : — We obferved the crow, the magpie, the thrufh, the wood-
pecker, the wren, the king-fiftier, the common land-lark, the plover, the
hawk, and the wliite-headed eagle. The wood-pigeon was alfo fome*
times, but very rarely feen.
The aquatic fowls were far more numerous ; and confifted of the com-
mon fea-gulls and fhags ; many kinds of ducks and divers ; the fea-parrot,
and many others, of which we knew not the names.
Mi
Vaft quantities of fifti are to be found, both on the coaft and in the
founds or harbours. — Among thefe are the halibut, herring, fardinc,
filver-bream, falmon, trout, cod, elephant-fifh, ftiark, dog-fifli, cuttle-filh,
great variety of rock-fifti, &c. All of which we have feen in the poffef-
fion ©f the natives, or^have been caught by ourfelves. There are, proba-
I bly.
( ^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
245
biy., a great abundance of other kinds, which are not to be taken by the 1788.
hook, the only method of taking fifli with which the natives are ac- "'**•■**•
quainted, and we had neither trawls or nets.
In the fpring, the herrings as well as the fardines, frequent the coaft
m vaft (hoals. The herring is from feven to eight inches long, and,
in general, fmaller than thofe taken in the Britifli feas. The (iirdine
refembles that of Portugal, and is very delicious : they are here
taken by the people in prodigious quantities. — They firft drive the fhoals
into the fmall coves, or (hallow waters, when a certain number of men
in canoes, keep plafliing the water, while others fink branches of the
pine with ftones ; the fifli are then eafily taken out with wooden troughs
or wicker baflcets. We have fometimes feen fuch numbers of them,
that a whole village has not been able to clean fe them before they began
to grow putrid. After being cleaned, they are placed on roJs, and hung
in rows, at a certain diftance, over their fires, that they may be fmoked ;
and when they are fufficiently dried, they are carefully packed up in
mats, and laid by as a part, and a very confiderablc part, of their winter's
provifion. The feafon for taking thefe filh is in the months of July and
Auguft. Certain people, at this time, arc ftationcd on particular emi-
nencies, to look for the arrival of the fhoals, which can be very readily
diftiiiguifhed by the particular motion of the fca. The natives then
embark in their canoes to proceed in their fifhery. The fardine is pre-
ferred by them to every other kind of fifh, except the fiilmon.
In the months of July, Auguft, and September, falmon are taken,
though not in fo great abundance as the other fifh, but are of a very
delicate flavour. They are fplit, dried, and packed up, as has already
been defcribcd, and are confidered as a great delicacy. The falmon
of
^iH)
«^j?ir>-'
»46
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. of the diftrldl of Nootka are very different from thofe found to the
Shtimiii. jjg^orthward, which are of an inferior kind, and of the fame fpecies
with thofe taken at Kamtfchatka.
. 1 , ^ '
During our (lay in King George's Sound, we faw very few Hiarks or
halibut ; but the cod taken by the natives were of the baft quality :—
they are alfo prepared, like the reft, for the purpofe of winter (lores.
We faw the red fnapper here, but it was very uncommon ; and we
now and then obferved the large cuttle-fifh, which the natives eat with
great relifti in its raw ftate.
The mufcles are of a very large fize, and filled with a fmall, fecdy
pearl, about the fize of a pin's head, very ill<lhaped, and by no means
tranfparent. We faw alfo fea-ears, cockles, limpets, ftar-fifh, and many
other marine produdions in great abundance. The fmall fea-crabs have
a very delicate flavour, and are in great plenty.
The reptiles of this country are confined, tt leafl as far as our know-
ledge extends, to a fmall brown fnake, about eighteen inches in length,
which fled on hearing tlie leaft noife. In our frequent vifits to the
woods we faw no other ; fo that they may be traverfed without the
leaft fear of meeting with thofe dangers from poifonous animals of the
reptile kind, which infeft the Eaftern fide of America. There are how-
ever, great quantities of mufquitoes, which prove a fevere inconvenience
to the natives. We faw butterflies of various kinds, and fome of un-
common fize and beauty. The bee, common fly, and various fpecies of
moths, were in great numbers, and compofed all that we recoiled: to
liave feen of the infed tribe on the North Weft Goaft of America.
Of
\ 5
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
«47
Of the minerals of this country, we can only judge from the different 1788.
kinds of ore which we faw in the poffeffion of the natives ; and from sbvtemier.
thofe fpecimens, we are difpofed to confider them of the moft valuable
kind.
The pure malleable lunips of copper ore feen in the poflTellion of the
natives, convince us that there are mines of this metal in the vicinity of
this part of the Weftern coaft. We once faw a piece of it, which appear-
ed to weigh about a pound, tinough which an hole had been perforated
fufficiently large for an handle to pafs, in order to make a kind of ham-
mer. On enquiring of the man in whofe pofleflion it was, from whence
he procured it, he made us underfland that he had received it in barter
from fome of the native people who lived more to the Northward. —
We had alfo occafionally feen necklaces and a fort of bracelets worn on
the wrift, which were of the pureft ore, and to all appearance had never
been in the pofleffion of an European.
The natives make a kind of coarfe red ochre, for the purpofe of paint-
ing themfelves, but more particularly their faces, which very probably
contains metalline particles ; we alfo obferved that they employed a
black pigment, which they ufe to paint their bodies. Over the latter
they ftrew a glittering {iind, which was very much efteemed by tliem ;
and from its appearance, our failors, at firft, took it for gold. It was
colle£led from a bed of rock of a whitifh colour, at the bottom of a
rivulet ; it ran in veins, poffefled a' (hining quality, and was of a gold
colour. On breaking a piece of the rock, thefc (hining particles vaniflied
and what remained, was black and flaky ; which, however, on being
reduced to powder, refumed the brilliant appearance we have mentioned
and formed the proudeft ornament of the Nootkan inhabitants. Sir
Francis Drake fpeaks of this (hinmg fandin his account of New Albion^
But
k
V
«!??SW(e'«»iW#».
,»«mj»»^''"'»^|j.) :««»j(
if
248 VOYAGES TO THE
1788; But we are not fufficieiitly (killed in mineralogy, to juftify our offering
any obfcrvations concerning it.
We alfo faw fevcral otflangular pieces of rock chryftal, perfedlly
tranfparcnt, and worn by tlie natives as ornaments about their neck.—
They generally harl about them a fmall piece of Mufcovy glafs, which
they held in high cftimatlon.
The impcrfetft knowledge we have yet obtained of this country, muft
render all conjc^lure vain as to its mineral pofleflions. The Spaniards,
however, who have the kcencfl fcent of any people for thofe riches
which are contained in the bowels of the earth, in the month of Auguft,
1789, opened a mine in an ifland, called Hog Ifland, which is fituated
in the harbour of Friendly Cove, in King George's Sound. Their miners
were kept conftantly at work, and no one but themfelves AifFered to ap-
proach the ifland, except the foldiers ordered to guard it.
CHAP.
\S
NORTH VVKST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. XXIII.
249
1788.
StrTEMVIR.
^he PerfoMS of the Inhahitants defcr'ibed, — The Manner in which they treat
their Infant Children. — their Averfton to Beards. — Drrjfcs^ Male and Fc-
fnale. — Farioui Kinds of themj'-'their Majks, and the Ufcs of them. —
Dlfpoftion and temper of the Natives. — An horrid Cujlom of killing a Slave
every Month, for the Purpofe of eating him. — The Ceremonies tifed on this
Occafion. — the Circumjlance which led to the Difcovcry of this cruel
PraSlicey &c.
TH E people of the Nootkan nation are, in general, robuft and well
proportioned ; — their faces are large and full, their checks high
and prominent, with fmall black eyes; — their nofes arc broad nnd flat;
their lips thick ; and they have, generally, very fine teeth, and of the moll
brilliant whitenefs. .
The manner in which the children of Nootka are treated when young,
is not more extraordinary from its ftrange, and, as it fhoukl appear,
total inutility, as from its agreement witli the cuftoms of the Chinefe
and Tartars, to whom this practice gives thefe people a confidcrable
refemblance. The head of the infant is bound by the mother with a
kind of fillet of feveral folds, as low down as the eyes, in ordc to give it
a certain form, which, at this tender age, it is capable of receiving. It
might be fuppofed that fuch a tight drawn ligature mufl: caufe confi-
derablepaiu totlie child ; but we never ob'erved that any of the infants
" I i in
.,.-ii^
.5«P5*5
^mv
I
25«
VOYAGES TO THE
17SS. ill fucli a Hate of prcparatiou for fugar-loaf heads, fufFcrcd any vifible
SlfiLN. Ul H.
jiam or inconvenience.
i'
V
':l
1'
Tlioogh tlic cuftom of comprcfTing the head In this manner, gives
tliem an vinplcaiant appearance, by drawing up the eye-brows, and
rometimcs proJucing tlic difagrecabic cfRtfl of fquinting, as well as of
flattening the nofc and diftending the noftrils, tiiey are by no means
an ill-looking race of people. They have alfo tlie cuftom, which is
known to prevail in fo many Indian nations, of plucking out the beard
by the roots, on its firft appearance ; and, as It continues to fprout, to
keep it down by tlic fiimc pradicc. It is one of the domcflic employ-
ment-; aillgiicd to their wives to watch this appearance of manhood, and
to eradicate the lialrs as tluy come forth ; which they do in a very dexte-
rous manner wltli their fingers, and without giving the lead pain 111
the operation. — Jome of them, however, though we faw but very few of
this difpofitioii, when they advance in years, and become infirm, fuffer their
beards to grow without interruption. — But, notwithftanding they have fo
great an averfion to the hair of their chin, that of the head is an objc£l of
their attentive vanity. — It is ftrong, black and glofly, grows to a con-
fiderable length, and is either tied in a kind of knot on the top of their
heads, or fufFered to hang down tJieir backs in flowing negligence.
In their exterior form they have not the fymmetry or elegance which
is found In many other Indian nations. — Their limbs, though ftout and
athletic, are crooked and ill-fliapcd; tlieir skin, when cleanfed of filth
and ochre, is white, and we have feen fome of the women, wlien in .1
ftate of cleanlinefs, — which, however, was by no means a common fight,
and obtained with difficulty, — who not only pofl'cfled the fair complexion
of Europe, but features tliat would Iiave attra£led notice for their delicacy
and beauty, in thofe parts of the world where the qualities of the human
form
% f • "•
NO'kTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
form are bcft uiidcrftooil. But thcfc examples of beauty arc Uy no mcnns
numerous among the women of Nootka, who arc calculated rathi-r to ilif-
guft than to charm an European bclioldcr. Their hair, like that of the
men, is black; their eyes are of the fame colour; — and, in their exterior
appearance, they are not to be immediately diftinguifhed from tlic men.
In their charafters they are referved and chafte ; and examples of loofe
and immodeft condu(fl were very rare among them. There were women
in Saint George's Sound, whom no oflcrs could tempt to meretricious
fubmiffio.is.
The principal drefs of the men is either compofed of the skin of the
fea-otter, or confifts of a kind of flaxen garment, made by the women
from the bark of a tree and the filament of a nettle, prepared in a parti-
cular manner. The skin of the bear, the racoon, or other animals, arc
fomctimcs worn, according to the caprices of fiincy, or the temperature
of the weather.
25'
1788.
!'■ )
The otter veftment is compofed of two large Ikins fewed on one fulc,
which form a covering from the neck to the ancles ; it pafl'es under the
left arm, and is tied over the right flioulder by a Iciithcrn thong faftencd
to the Ikins, leaving both arms entirely free from any kind of reftraint.
This garment, in its form and folds, is far from being ungraceful ; and,
when aided by the richnefs of the fur, wants nothing but clcanlinels
to make it a veftment of the moft pleafing defcription.
(\
. They have alfo another garment, made from the inner bark of tlie
pine-tree and the filaments of the nettle. — Thefe are fteeped for fomc
time in urine ; and having been well beaten, they are feparated into
threads, which is a matter of no great Ikill. A certain quantity of tlicfc
threads joined together, form one of the ftronger thongs, a nunili. 1 .if
I i » which
'SWIWw^ff^**..
^1!
ti
252
1788.
Pin EM EI R.
VOYAGES TO THE
which are prepared twice the length of the garment, and laid double
ncrofs a long ftick ; when they are readily platted into the kinds of naat of
which this article of the Nootkan drefs is made. The women are very
expert at this bufincfs, which is one of their principal employments.—
This garment, from its clofe contexture, is warm, and, when new and
clean, is rather of an elegant appearance, efpecially when its edges
are trimmed with a narrow fringe of the fta -otter's skin; but the
filth of the houfes, and the pcrfonal naftinefs of the people, almoft
Immediately foils, and of courfe deftroys its beauty: the natives call
it a coifack, and wear it in the fame manner as thtir drefles of skin
and fur.
The cap which they ufe as a covering for their head, is of a conic
form, made of matting, and of fo clofe a texture as to be capable of
holding water. It is ornamented with painted reprefentations of birds
and other animals, and faftened by a leathern thong, tied beneath the
chin. There is, without doubt, a very great convenience in this part of
thtir drefs, but it is bv no me^ns calculated tc add to the cciace or fierce-
nefs of their appearance.
Their faces are generally painted with a fort of red ochre: in vifits of
ceremony every part of dieir body is bcd.iubcd with it, which makes
them of a reddifh hue, and difagreeable appeirance ; and b:i(ig mixed with
train-oil, with which they previoudy anoint themfelve.s, is accompanied
with a rancid fmcU. In tli'S fafliion of painting themfclves they adopt
various mo-!es, which, as it appeared to us, they appropriate to certain
occafions. When they go on a war expedition, black is a prevalent
colour, laid on in ftreaks, on a white ground ; we have fometimes alfo
feen them painted entirely white; and, at other times, of a bright red,
over which they ftrewed a flihihig fa.id, which has been already defcribed.
But
^k-''
'.'^
,.,^ .. .^--^
i^M
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
253
But in whatever fafhion they thought proper to colour themfclves, they 1788.
,,,.-.. . . - ^ , rr September.
appeared to US equally diigufting ; it was, if wc mny ule the exprcuion,
when they were hi delhabillc, that they appeared to the greatcft ad-
vantage.
The ears of the men are univerfally perforated. Some of thefe have
feveral holes, in which they fix fmall leathern thongs, ftrung either with
porcupines quills, imall pieces of copper, or any otiier orn.Tmcnt they
could procure from us. But buttons, when they could be obtained, fup-
planted all other articles, and we have lometimcs fcen their cars drawn
down almoft to their flioulders by the weight of th-iri. The fcptum, or
that part of the nofe which divides the noflrils, is alfo fcmetimes perfo-
rated, from whence pieces of copper, iron or tin, fliaped in various ways,
are kifpended. — I'hey wear alio, round their wrifts, a kind of bracelet,
made of metal, or of leather ftrung with fhells, and fometimes of a
number of fimple thongs of leather, Thev npplv tlic fame kind of or-
nament to their ancles ; but with a greater number of thongs, and a pro-
portionable encreale in the (ize of the beads or other decorations.
Tliedrcfs of the wom(Mi very materially ditTcrs from that of the men ;
and is calcuiated, with great mnd-.O-y, to prevent that peribnal expofurc
which accompanies tlie drels or the other i" x. Tliey arc n.vcr fuffcrcd
to wear the fea-otter (kin, or furs of any kind, as far as wc could
obfcrve. — Their dreffcs are made ot mats, manufiiflurcd by them-
fclves, in the form of a Hiifr, without fleeves, which falls down
to tlic ancle. A kind of mantle, v.-ith a liolc in t'lc nikKile, pafiVs
over their head, and is contrived to cover rluir arms v.ithout rtftrainiiu'
their motion; though it very ftldom happ.ns t!iat in anv of tii.ir c;-.-.-
ployments more than half the arm becomes viliblc. A cap of the
fame kind as that of the men, complcats tluir drcfs. Their loiut
black
■\ I.
f: ■'»!
234
1788.
S F r r t M li t R .
VOYAGES TO THE
black hair hangs down their back ; but they are not allowed to employ
;i!iy other paint but of a red colour, which, however, they ufe in great
profiilioii. We obferved very few of them who were adorned with the
urXc or ear decorations.
But thefc are the drcfl'es of peace ; — the people of Nootka have another
for war, and is admirably contrived to anfwer the purpofe for which
it is put on. It confills of a thick leathern frock or doublet, made from
the skin of the elk, cut into a fringe at the fides and neck, and adorned
on the other parts with taflels of leather : it reaches from the neck to the
heels, and is painted with various devices. This garment is fufficicntly
ftrong to refift th^ arrows or even the fpears of their enemies, as by
hanging loofe it yields to the force, and checks the progrefs both of
one and the other. It may, therefore, be confidered as a very complete
defcnfive armour. This diefs is accompanied with a mask reprefenting
the heaJ of feme aiiimal ; it is made of wood, with the eyes, teeth, &c.
and is a work of confidcrablc ingenuity. Of thefe masks they have
a great variety, which are applicable to certain circumftanccs and occa-
fions. Tliofe, for example, which rcprefcnt the head of the otter, or any
other marine animals, are ufed only when they go to hunt them. — In
their war expeditions, but at no other time, they cover the whole of
their drcfs with large bear-skins. They alfo adorn their heads with
feathers and the down of birds, — a cuftom which they rigidly obferve
in their firfl: approach to ftrangers.
When we firft faw them dreflcd in this manner, their ferocious ap-
pearance was rather alarming, but this fingular mode of difguifingthem-
felves, loft: its deformity by a familiar intercourfe, and being continually
in the habit of obfirviiig the chara£ler of this inofFenfive people. When
fitting in their houfes and converfing with their families, they loft all that
< air
t ; '
'i I
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
255
air 0/ ferocity which they derived from the drefs we have jiift defcribed. — 1788.
They were, in general, courteous to us, and affable to each other ; and
they feemed to entertain fomething like a very correft notion of right and
wrong ; being confident when adling with reditude, and diffident when
doing any thing under an oppofite influence : for I do not recolleft a
fnigle inftance, where the reproach we made them on any detedion, was
not attended with the moft evident fcnfe of (hame. It would not, per-
haps, be the bed ground to form a judgment of their real charafler by
their immediate conduft to us, as that might take its dupe from tlie fear of
our power, or the hope of our favour. But in tlicir demeanour to each
other, we frequently fiw thofe attentions, and d'.f.overed thofe friendly
difpofitlons which leave no doubt as to the nmlabL qualities they pof-
fefs. On the other hand, their f.inguinary appetites and cannibal pro-
penfities were but too evident ; fo that we were divided between our re-
gard and abhorrence of the Nootkan people.
Callicum and Hanapa both declared their averfion to the practice of
eating human flefh ; at the fame time tluy acknowledged it exifled among
them, and that Maquilla was fo much attaclied to this detelhiblc ban-
quet, as to kill a flave every moon, to gratify his unnatural appetite.—
Thefe chiefs, with every look and cxprcffion of abhorrence, gave us the
following account of this bloody ceremony.
The number of Maquilla's flavcs were very confidcrable, not only atNoot-
ka, but In other parts of his territories. And when the fatal day arrived
which was to be celebrated by the feaft of an human vidim, a certain
number of tlufe flaves were aflembled in tlie houfe of the fovereio-n
chief, who Ic-lcflcd the objc£t to be eaten by him and his guells,
in the following curious manner: — The inferior chiefs wlio were
invited to partake of the approaching banquet, performed the cere-
monies
IH
256
1788.
SKl'TtMUr R,
VOYAGES TO THE
moiilos which were appointed to precede it : — thefe ccnfift of finging
the war fong, danciiig round the fire, and fomtnting the flames, by
tlirowing oil into them. A bandage is then tied over the eyes of Ma-
quilla, who in this blindfold ftate is to fcize a flavc. His a£livity in
the purfuir, with the alarms and exertions of thefe unhappy wretches
in avoiding it, form another pai t of this inhuman bufniefs. But it is
fl'ldom a work of delay, — fome one of thefe flaves is fbon caught, — death
inftantly follows, — the devoted carcafe is immediately cut in pieces,
and its recking portions difbributcd to the guefts : when an unlverfal
fliout of thofe who have efcaped, declares the joy of their dehverance.
We were not by any means difpofcd to give credit to this extraordinary
a<flion, and rather imagined that it was invented to injure Maqnilla in
our opinion ; for when we recollccT:ed that the pillow of Callicum was
filled with human fculls, we could not but fufpecSt if the former was
a cantiibal, that the latter was alfo of the fame ilcfcription. Our fubfe-
quent enquiries, however, confirmed all that Callicum had aflerted;^
and many of the natives aflured us that he was an honourable exception
to the general difpofition of the Nootkan people to human fltfli. The
fculls on whicli he repofcd might, indeed, 1 e the remains of his anceftors ;
or, which is move, probable, the trophies of his prowcfs, and prefervcd
by him to record his valour; as ftandards taken h-om an enemy, in the
wars of polifhed nations, arc hung up as enfigns of their glory, in the
public places of tlieir metropolitan cities.
A circumftancc however took place very foon after we had received
the information we have juft related, which induced Maquilla himfelf to
confirm the truth of this cruel hiftory, and to name even the very time
when the laft fcene of his tragic gluttony was aiSted by him.
It
'• liii^iPHSii
North west coast of America.
It fo happened that the chief, in afcending the fide of the (hip, by fomc
untoward accident received m hurt in his leg. Orders were immediarely
given to the furgeon to do what was neceffary on the occafion ; and when
he was about to apply a plaifter to the wound, Maquilla abfolutely refu-
fed to fuffer the application, but fucked himfelf the blood which flowed
freely from it : and when we expreflcd our aftoniflimcnt and difguft at
his conduft, he replied, by licking his lips, patting his belly, and ex-
claiming cloo/h, cloojb ; or good, good. Nor did he now hefitate to confcfs
that he eat human flefli, and to exprefs the delight he took in banquet-
ing on his fellow creatures. Nay, he not only .nvowed the pradice of
which he had been accufed, but informed us, as we flood fliudderiug at
the ftory, that, a very fhort time before, the ceremony of killing and
eating a flave had taken place even in Friendly Cove. We terrified him
however into a promife, that no fuch barbarity fliould be again pradifcd
by himfelf, or any others in his territories ; and gave him to undcrftand,
with the moft determined tone and look we could afl'u me, that he him-
felf fhould not long furvive another repetition of it.
257
1788.
Seftembir.
Kk
C H A V
i, »l
1788.
SErTEMBIK.
VOYAGES TO THE
CHAP. XXIV.
Employments of the Men of Nootha. — They confifi, in general^ of hunting,
different Marine and Land Animah. — Killing the IVhale^ &c. defcribed. —
Method of hunting the Sea-Otter, the Seal, t£c.— Their more domeflic Occu-
pations. — Making Implements for Fi/l:ing andlVar. — Their Canoes : —A DC'
fcription of them. — A particular Manner of Fifli ig. — Employments of the
JVomen. — Manner of colleSling and frferving the Roes of Fifli. — The
Difpojition of the People to War. — The Cujiom of exchanging their IVomen. —
Their Religion, &c. &c.
T^ HE occupations of the men on this coaft were fuch as arofc from
their particular fituation. Fifliing, and hunting the land or larger
maruie animals, either for food or furs, form their principal employ-
ments.— The common bufinefsof filhing for ordinary fuftenance is carried
on by flaves, or the lower clafi of people : — While the more noble occu-
pation of killing the wliale and hunting the fca-otter, is followed by none
but the chiefs and warriors.
Their dexterity in killing the whale is not eafily defcribed, and the
facility with which they convey fo huge a creature to their habitations is
no lefs remarkable. When it is determined to engage in whale-hunting,
which the moft ftormy weather does not prevent, the chief prepares him-
felfjwith no common ceremony, for this noble diverfion.^He is cloathcd
CI.
i. r-
'"*'^'«^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
259
on the occafion in the fea-otter's (kin ; his body is befmcared with oil, 1 788.
and daubed with red ochre ; and he is accompanied by the moft brave, stiTtMBER.
atflive, and vigorous people in his fervice.
The canoes employed on this occafion arc ot'a fizc between their war
canoes and thofe they uTc on ordinary occafions ; they are admirably well
adapted to the purpofe, and are capable of holding, conveniently, eighteen
or twenty men.
The harpoons which they ufe to flrike the whale or any other fea-
animal, except the otter, are contrived with no common (kill. The
(haft is from eighteen to twenty-eight feet ui length ; at the end whereof
is fixed a large piece of bone, cut in notches, which being fpliced to
the (haft, ferves as a fecure hold for the harpoon, which is faftened to
it with thongs. — The harpoon is of an oval form, and rendered extreme-
ly (harp at the (ides as well as the point ; — it is made out of a large
mufcle-(hell, and is fixed into another piece of bone, about three inches
long, and to which a line is faftened made of the finews of certain
beafts, of feveral fathoms in length ; this is again attached to the (haft ;
fo that when the fi(h is pierced, the fliaft floats on the wntcr by means
of feal-skins filled with wind, or the ventilated bladders of fi(h, which
are fecurely attached to it.
The chief himfelf is the principal harpooncr, and is the firll that
(Irikes the whale. — He is attended by feveral canoes of the fame fize
as his own, filled with people armed with harpoons, to be emploved as oc-
cafion may require. When the huge fifli feels the fmart of the firft wea-
pon, he inftantly dives, and carries the (haft with all its bladders along with
him. The boats immediately follow his wake, and as he rifes, continue
to fix their weapons in him, till he finds it impoflible for him to fink,
K k 2 from
tfo
VOYAGES TO THE
I
1788.
September.
. 1 , \ ^h
> t
;/
'ill ■)
from the number of floating buoys which are now attached to his body.
The whale then drowns, and is towed on (hore with great noife and
rejoicings. It is then immediately cut up, when part is dedkated to
the fcaft which concludes the day, and the remainder divided among
thofe who iiave fliared in the dangers and glory of it.
The taking of the fea-otter is attended with far greater hazard as well
as trouble. For this purpofe two very fmall canoes are prepared, in
each of which arc two expert hunters. The inftruments they em-
ploy on this occafion are bows and arrows, and a fmall harpoon. The
latter ditTers, in fome degree, from that which they ufe in hunting the
whale; the fhaft is much the fame, and is pointed with bone; but the
harpoon itfelf is of a greater length, and fo notched and barbed, that
wlien it has once entered the flefli, it is almofl: impoflible to extricate it.
This is attached to the fhaft by feveral fathoms of line of fufficient
ftrength to drag the otter to the boat. The arrows are fmall, and pointed
with bone, formed into a fuigle barb. Thus equipped, the hunters pro-
ceed among the rocks in fearch of their prey. Sometimes they furprife
him flecping on his back, on the furface of the water ; and, if they
can get near the animal without awakening him, which requires infinite
precaution, he is eafily harpooned and dragged to the boat, when a
fierce battle very often enfues between the otter and the hunters,
who are frequently wounded by the claws and teeth of the ani-
mal. The more common mode, however, of taking him is by pur-
fuit, which is fometimcs continued for feveral hours. — As he cannot re-
main under water but for a very fhort time, the skill in this chace
confifls in dire£ting the canoes in the fame line that the otter takes when
under the water, at which time he fwims with a degree of celerity that
greatly exceeds tl at of his purfuers. They therefore feparate, in order
to have tlie better chance of wounding him with their arrows at the
5 momen^
m ^
i
iu
-,» *.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
a6i
moment he rifes; though it often happens that this wary and cunning 178S.
animal efcapes from the danger which furrounds him. LvitMSk*.
It has heen obferved, in the account ahcady given of the otter,
that when they are overtaken with their young ones, the parental
afflftion fuperfedes all fcnfe of danger; and both the male and female
defend their offspring with the moft furious courage, tearing out the
arrows and harpoons fixed in them with their tectli, and oftentimes
even attacking the canoes. On thefc occafions, however, they and
their litter never fail of yielding to the power of the hunters. The dif-
ficulty of Uking the otter might indeed occafion fomc degree of fiirprife
at the number of the skins which the natives appear to have in ufc, and
for the purpofes of trade. But the circumftancc may be ealily ac-
counted for, by the conftant exercife of this advantageous occupation :
fcarce a day paffes, but numbers arc eagerly employed in the purfuit
of it.
The feal is alfo an animal very difficult to take, on account of ita
being able to remain under water. Artifices are therefore made ufc of
to decoy him within reach of the boats ; and this is done in general by
the means of malks of wood made in fo exadl a refemblance of nature,
tliat the animal takes it for one of his own fpecles, and falls a prey to
the deception. On fuch occafions, fome of the natives put on thefe
masks, and liiding their bodies with branches of trees as they lie among
the rocks, the feals are tempted to approach fo near the fpot, as to put
it in the power of the natives to pierce them with their arrows. Si-
milar artifices are employed againft the fea-cow, &c. The otters, as
well as fomu of the laud animals, are, we believe, occafionally taken la
the f:uiie manner.
ill''
v.!
Tl
le
i; ■ I
s6a
1788.
SlPTtMlitR
V O Y A C; E S TO T H F,
The very preparation for the bufiners of hunting and fidiing, re-
quires no fmall portion of domeftic employment. Their harpoons,
hnes, (i(h-hookj, bows and arrows, and otlier i.Tjplements iicccflary in
the different purfuits of peace and war, muft make a very gic.it demand
upon their time. Belidcs, they contrived to forge the metals t\\ey re-
ceived from us into various ornaments, after their falhion, for their
favourite wives or miftrclTes. la thefe domeftic operations the boys
were always made ta give their afilftance, and learn to form the mate-
rials with which they were hereafter to gain tlieir fuftenanceand their
glory.
The ingenuity of thefc people in all the different arts that is necef-
fary to their fupport and their pleafure, is matter of juft admiration
to the more cultivated i;arts of the globe. Nature, that fond and
bounteous parent to her children of every kind, has left none of them
without thofe means which are capable of producing the relative
happinefs of all. But the moft laborious, as well as moft curious
employment in which we law the natives of Nootka engaged, (for we had
no opportunity of feeing them conftrU(5l one of their enormous houfes,)
was the making their canoes ; which was a work of no common (kill
and ability. Thefe boats are, many of them, capable of containing from
fifteen to thirty men, with eafc and convenience ; and at the fame time
are elegantly moulded and highly fuiiftied ; and this curious work is ac-
compliflied with utenfils of ftone made by themfelves.
They even manufiiSlured tools from the iron which tliey ob-
tained from us ; and it was very feldom that we could perfuade them
to make ufe of any of our utenfils in preference to their own, except
the faw, whofe obvious power in diminifliing tlieir labour, led tiiein
to adopt it without hefitation. In particular, they contrived to forgo
from
\ !
■ ifc I '1
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
from the iron tluy procured of us, a kind of tool, which anfwcrcd the
purpofe of hollowing out large trees mucli better than any utcufil wc
could give them. This bufincfs tlicy accompliflied by main ftrength,
with a flat ftone by way of anvil, and a round one which fervcd
the purpofe of an hammer ; and with thefc inftruments they fhapcd the
iron from the fire into a tool bearing fome rcfemblance to a coupcr's
adze, which they faftened to an handle of wood with cords made
of fuiews ; and being fharpcnid at the end, was extremely well adapted
to the ufcs for which it was intended.
263
1788.
SirTKMBEIt.
Their large war canoes were generally finifhed on the fpot where the
trees grew of which they are made ; and then dragged to the water-
fide. Wchave feen fonic of them which were fifty-three feet in length,
and eight feet in breadth. The middle part of thefe boats is the broadeft,
and gradually nariows to a point at each end ; Lut their head or prow is
generally much higher than the ftern.
As their bottoms are rounded and their fides flam out, they have confe-
quently fufficient bearings, and fwim firmly in the water. They huve no
feats, but feveral pieces of wood, about three inches in diameter, are fixed
acrofs them, to keep the fides firm, and preferve them from being warped.
The rowers generally fit on their hams, but fometimes they make ufe of a
kindof fmall ftool, which is a great relief to them, hi the a£l of embark-
hig they are extremely cautious, each man regularly taking the ftation to
which he has been accuftomed. Some of thefe canoes are polifhed and
painted, or curioufly ftuddcd with human teeth, particularly on the
ftern and the prow. The fid.s were fometimes adorned with the
figure of a dragon with a long tail, of much the fame form as we fee
on the porcelain of China, and in the fanciful paintings of our own coun-
try. Wc were much ftruck with this circumftance, and took fome
I- pains
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i
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If
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ii
1788. pains to get at the hiftory of it ; but it was among many other of our
enquiries to which we could not obtain any fatisfadlory anfwer.
After we had been fomc time in King George's Sound, the natives began
to make ufe of fails made of mats, in imitation of ours. We had, indeed,
rigged one of Hanna's large canoes for him, with a pendant, &c. &c. of
which he was proud beyond mcafure ; and he never approached the (hip
but lie hoifled his pendant, to the very great diverfion of our Teamen.
The paddles are nicely fliapcd and well polished with fifli-skin : they
are about five feet fix inches in length; and the blade, which is about two
feet long, is pointed like a leaf, and the point itfelf is lengthened feveral
inches, and is about one broad. At the end of the handle there is a
tranfvcrfe piece of wood like the top of a crutch. Thefe paddles the
natives ufe in a mofl dextrous manner, and urge on the canoes with
inconceivable fwiftncfs.
<-;'; )
In no one circumftance of their difFerent occupations do the natives
of Nootka difcover more dexterity than in that of fifliing. They how-
ever always preferred their own hook?, which were made from ihells, or
the bone of f\Ch, to ours ; nor indeed would they ever make ufe of the
latter ; but our lines they confidered as very fuperior to thofe of their
own manufa£lure. Thefe arc made from the finews of the whale,
which furnifhes them with the materials of all their different cordage,—
or from fea-wecd, which grows on the coaft in great abundance. This
is fpllt, boiled, and dried, when it forms a very tough and ftrong line.
But bcfides the common pra£Hce of angling, they have a very parti-
cular method of taking herrings, fardines, &c. This is managed with
a flick or pole about eighteen feet long, with a blade of twelve or four-
teen
\\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
teen inches broad, and fix feet long, on both fides of which are fixed a
number of (harp pieces or points of bone, about three inches in length.
When the (hoal of fifli appears, they ftrike this inftrument into the water,
and feldom fail of bringing up three or four fifh at every ftroke. —
We have often feen a fmall canoe nearly filled with herrings, &c. in
a very Hiort time, by this eafy method of fifhing.
But, although thefe people are fo dextrous in their various employments,
and fo a£tive when in a ftatc of exertion, they are naturally of an indo-
lent and lazy difpofition ; and would, in general, prefer to idle away
their time in the filth of their habitations, than go forth to the ho-
nourable and diAinguifhing, as well as neceflary, duties of killing the
whale and hunting the otter. We have oftentimes feen the bufy Cal-
licum obliged to exert his compulfory power to call them from their
domefiiic indulgence, to throw the harpoon, or let fly the arrow.
265
I ';88.
SErTEMDSK.
I
&
u
The women have alfo their j-ppointed occupations. It is their de-
partment to clean the fea-otter skins, and ftretch them on frames, which
they perform with habitual ingenuity. Every branch of culinary fci-
cnce, as well as of the houfehold csconomy, is likewll'e committed to
them ; and it is among their duties to keep watch during the niglit, in
order to alarm the men in cafe of any fudden incurfion of an enemy.—
They not only drefs the provifions for the day, but prepare the (lores
for winter fufteuance. — The garments which have been already defcrihed
as made from the bark of trees, are of female manufacture. They alio
colleft the wild fruits and efculent plants that are found in the woods,
or take the (hell-fifli, which are in great plenty among the rocks, or on the
fea-fide. When the canoes return from their little voyages, they are em-
ployed in unlading them of their cargoes, liauling them on the beacli, and
i : i*i covering
:1 V.M
.;[
^1
li
a66
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
Seftemuer.
1«
%m
I
covering them with branches of the pine, as a prote£lion from
the weather. On all thefc occafions, however, the female flaves
take a proportionable (hare of the labour. They havr, alfo their
conjugal and maternal duties ; nor (hall we be fo unjuft as not to
mention that the women of Nootka are tender mothers and affec-
tionate wives : indeed we have beheld inftances of fondnefs for their
cliildrcn, and regard for their huibands, which mark the influence of
thofe fenfibilities that form the chief honour of the female chara£ler
among the moA polifhed nations of the globe.
The fea is the great market to which thefc people refort, and where,
as has already been made to appear, a vaft plenty of fifh of various
kinds is purchafcd by their labour. According to the beft information
we could obtain, the ice on this part of the coaft, feldom or never pre-
clude* them from having accefs to the fea : though the very precautious
they ufe in laying up ftores for winter, and the hiftory which Mr. Mac-
cay gives of the dlftrefs they fufFered while he was araongft them, is
an evident proof that they fometimes undergo very great hardfliips from
want of provifions during the cold months. Whatever food is capable of
being preferved, they do not fail to prepare for the colder feafons of
the year. Even the fpawn of fi(h is confidercd as a winter ftore,
and colledled in the following manner. In the beginning of the fum-
mer, they fpread at the head of the founds and bays, a great quan-
tity of the branches of trees, on which the fpawn of the fifh natu»
rally incrufts itfelf; when, at a proper period, it is ft ripped off and
put carefully into fifli bladders. This kind of cavear the natives conHder
as a deficacy both in its dry and raw ftate. The roe of the falmon is
alfo ftored up inrfie fame manner ; but they collect it from the fifli itfelf,
which is feen in autumn almoft burfting with this favourite article of
winter luxury. They eat it as well as all their dried filh with oil, and
t without
^ n
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
without any other preparation. As it has been found neceflary to
mention in other parts of this volume, the different animals thefe people
take for food, — for indeed they eat every thing, more or lefs, which they
take, — we ihall not add what might be efleemed an unnecelTary re>
petition.
»
A ftate of favage life is univerfally found to be a ftate of warfare ;
and the Nootka nations are not only in frequent hoftilities with the more
diftant tribes, but even among thcmfclves ; particularly Wicananifli and
Tatootche. Stratagem and furprife form the ofFenfive points of their
mihtary art ; its defenfive operations, if we may ufe the expreflion, are
vigilance and precaution. Their villages, &c. therefore, are generally
built in fituations not eafily to be attacked without danger. But they
do not truft to any fecurity of (ituation ; for in peace as well as in war a
continual watch is kept during the night by women, who, fitting round
their fires, keep each other awake, by relating the battles of their nation,
or recounting the prowefs and gallant deeds of their hufbands and their
children. One man alone performs the part of centinel on the outfide of
the houfe, where he is placed in fuch a manner as to hear the lead noifo
that may be made in the woods, or on the water. — Indeed, this
continual vigilance is a mod eflential part of their government ; as among
thefe favage people an opportunity of gaining advantage is oftentimes
the fignal for war ; and, therefore, they can never be faid to be in a
ftate of peace : They muft live in conftant expectation of an enemy,
and never relax from that continual preparation againft thofe hoftilities
and incurfions which doom the captives to flavery or to death.
The chiefs of this country have a cuftom which, as it appears prin-
cipally to be derived from the wars of the different ftates with each
other, may be mentioned with propriety in this place. This cudom
ij,. LI a confifta
i6'/
1788.
SfFTIMBIt.
ii
m ri
'\ .;
x68
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788.
1/
confifts in yielding up their wives to, or interchanging them with, each
other. A beautiful woman will fometimes occaHon a war in the defarts
of Nootka, as it formerly did in the fields of Troy : a woman is fome-
times found neceflary to Tooth a conqueror, or to purchafe a-favourable
article in a treaty. Indeed, the privileges which the chiefs poflefs of
having as many wives as they pleafe, may, perhaps, have arifen from
an experience of the political purpofes to which female charms may
be applied in peace or in war.
We could not, however, but obferve, that in the whole di{lri£l of
Nootka, the women did not appear to bear an equal proportion to the
men. To the Northward, on the contrary, the number of females
greatly preponderates ; a circumftance which will engage fome degree
of curiolity, as it is hereafter defcribed in one of thofe chapters which
contain the voyage of the Iphigenia from Samboingan to Nootka Sound.
The marriage ceremonies of thefe people conHft of nothing more than
a feaft given by the friends of the parties. With what rites or forms
they coniign the dead to their lafl abode, we had no opportunity of ob«
ferving. We remember to have feen fmall oblong boxes, which contained
the dt:ad bodies of children hanging on the branches of trees ; and
which, as we underflood, were, after a certain time, taken down and
buried ; but we rather think this cuftom was peculiar to children, as
we never faw the remains of any perfon of full growth in fuch a
fituation.
Of the religion of thefe people we have no very correft idea ; but (hall
relate what we know of thofe principles which conne£l them with the
Deity, and their prefeut life with one that is to come. In moft of their
houfes they have, as has already been obferved, certain huge idols or
* images
\\
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
images, to whom we never faw them pay any mark of cotiimon refpfA,
much lefs of worHiip or adoration. 1 hefe mifliaprn figures occupied, as
it appeared, fomewhat of a diAinguiihed and appropriate place, wherever
we faw them ; but they ieemed to have no exclufive privilege whatever,
and (harcd the common filth of thofe who lived beneath the fame roof
with them. Indeed, we had for fome time, no reafon for fuppofing
that they had an idea of a Deity, till we explained to tliem t!)e caufe of
our fufpenfion from labour on Sunday ; and we (hould have quitted Ame-
rica in a total ignorance, as to any principle of their faith, if the fon of
Hanapa, a boy of very uncommon fagacity for a niitive of Nootka, had
not unfolded to us the following very concife hillory of their religion;
which, however, is fufficient to prove that they enjoy the commor*
and confblatory belief of the intellectual world in a future and better
(late of exiAence.
This difcovery arofe from our enquiries on a fubje£l of avery different
n.iture. — On exprefling our wifli to be informed by what meiins they be-
came acquainted with copper, and why it was fuch a peculiar obje«ft
of their admiration,— this intelligent young man told us all he knew, and
as we believe all that is known by his nation on the fubjedt. Where
words were wanting, or not intelligible, which frequently happened in
the courfe of his narration, he fupplied the deficiency by thofe expreffive
aiflions which nature or neceffity feems to have communicated to people
whole language is confined; and the young Nootkan ilifcjvered fomuch
(kill in conveying his ideas by figns and fymbols, as to render his dif-
courfe perfedtly intelligible whenever he found it neccflary to have rc-
courfe to them. He related his ftory in the following manner : —
He firft placed a certain number of fticks on the ground, at fmall dif-
tances from each other, to which he gave feparate names. Thus he called
5 the
269
1788.
i
i
n
■11
>'
0
I,
:." '5l
»7o
I
«■ *
i
1788.
VOYAGES TO THE
the firft his father and the next his grandfather : he then took what remain-
ed, and threw them all into confufion together; as much as to fay that they
were the general heap of his anceftors, whom he could not individually
reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, faid that when they lived, an
old man entered the Sound in a copper canoe, with copper paddles,
and every thing elfe in his poflefTion of the fame metal : — That he paddled
along the (hore, on which all the people were aflembled, to contemplate
fo ftrange a fight ; and that, having thrown one of his copper paddles on
(hore, he himfelf landed. The extraordinary flranger then told the natives,
that he came from the Iky, — to which the boy pointed with his hand,—
that their country would one day be deAroyed, when they would all be
killed, and rife again to live in the place from whence he came. Our
young interpreter explained this circumflance of hiy narrative by lying
down as if he were dead ; and then, riling up fuddenly, he imitated the
a£tion of foaring through the air.
He continued to inform us that the people killed the old man, and
took his canoe ; and that from this event they derived their fondnefs for
copper. He alfo gave us to underftaud that the images in their houfes
were intended to reprefent the form» and perpetuate the million of the old
man who came from the flcy.
Such was the imperfe£l tradition which we received of what may be
called the facred hiftory of this country, and on which the inhabitants
reded the common hope of the human mind in every Ante and form of
our nature,— that there will be an exiftence hereafter, beyond the reach
of (ublunary Ibrrow. ^4.51^
Thus have we given fuch an account of this people, country, and the
cuftoms of it, as occurred to our obfervation. We had not time, even if
we
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 271
tve had poflTciTed the ability, to have purfued the track of the philo- 1788.
fopherand the naturalift. We had other objefts before us ; and all the strTiMBin.
knowledge we have obtained was, as it were, accidentally acquired in the <
purfuit of them. Of the country we had no reafon to complain, and
we left Nootka Sound with no fmall fliare of efteem for the inhabi-
tants of it.
CHAP.
u )i
A
i<
(
»7«
1788
Sf.'riMSia*
■^rOYAGES TO THE
m;M
ll i
CHAP. XXV.
77.V Fblicb froceeJs on htr Visage.— Alarmed at the Appearance of a Leak.
— Obliged to lighten the Ship, — Arrive off Owhyhee, one of the Sandwich
JJlands. — Heave to in 'toe-yahyah Bay. — Receive great ^aniities ofProvi'
Jions. — T'heprefent State of that IJland. — Prefentin the Name of Tianna /•
the Chief of it.— The Felice leaves Owhyhee.— Improvement in falling
Provifions.—Pafs the IJlands of Mowee^ Ranai^ Morotoi and JVoahoo.—'
Arrive off Atooi ; the political State of that IJland. — Proceed to Oneeheow.
Friendly Reception at that Place. — Large ^antily of Tarns procured.—
Leave a Letter with a confdential Native of this IJland^ for Captain
Douglas. — Proceed on the Foyage. — Make the IJland of Botol Tobago Xima.
— Round the Rocks of Ftlle Rete. — Make the Coajl of China. '-'Anchor in
the Roads of Macao.
Wf E now return to the progrefs of our voyage. — During the night
after we left King George's Sound, it blew with great violence,
accompanied by a very heavy, mountainous fea,— the ftiip labouring in a
unufual manner ; when at four in tlie morning of the 25th, we were
alarmed with an account that there was four feet water in the hold ;
and by eight o'clock the water had not only gained on us, but was got
above the ground tier of casks, which made me at firft apprehend that
the (hip, from her excefllve tumbling and rolling, had fprung a dan-
gerous leak. The pumps had been kept conftantly at work, but after
fome
\\
'I;
I
NORTH WEST COAST OI A M F. R I C A.
fomc time, they became Co choakcd with the fmall baljaft, as to he
no longer in a bpndition to deliver their water. Wliilo the carpenters
were repairing them, the crew were employed in baling the water from
all the hatch-ways. Wc continued, however, to piirfuc our courfc
under clofe-recfed top-fails and fore-fail, to the Southward, wi|HU^thc
wi^th
:, ana tjj
wind from the North Weft, which now blew a violent gale, ana tue
fhip moved heavily and flowly through the fea, from the great quan-
tity of water in her hull.
273
1788.
SerTrMitft.
Ai
Our alarms were very much encreafed, when we found that at ten
o^clock the water continued to baffle all our endeavours. In this fitu-
ation, orders were given to bring the (hip to, which was accordingly
done under the clofc-rccfcJ main top-fail on the larboard tacks. I was
confident as to tlie ftate and ftrengtli oftheveflcl, and therefore gave
orders for all the fpars and booms on the lee- fide of the deck to be
launched overboard without delay, which was no very eafy bufinefs,
from their fize and the rolling and tumbling of the fliip : however, with
theaffiftance of hatchets and axes, this fide of the deck was effeilually
cleared ; when the fliip was wore immediately and put on the other tack,
and tlie fame operation was performed on the otiier fide, which Lifted
till three o'clock, when the fpars were all launched overboard, and we
almoft inftantaneoufly felt a good efFed, by the diminution of the water
from baling, as the pumps could not be immediately repaired.
We now difcovered the caufe of our part danger to have arifen from
the great weight of timber lodged on the deck, which, witii the heaw
rolling fea, had opened her fcams, and given paflage to fo large a quan-
tity of water. After this operation, however, (he became light and
buoyant, and we purfued our courfe with renewed fpirits and con-
fidence.
. Mm Thu^
V \ I
> Ifi
ill
11.
•I'
it-,
r '.■*■•,.
f
V ■
•^4 V O Y A G F. S T O T M E
1788. Thus we continued, without the intervention of any occurrcnco
ocroBK». ^vorth relatinc:, till the i«th of 0£>ober, which brought us into fine
V ofl'.clil.i)! j o ^ o
nnd lercne weather ; when being in the latitude of the Eafl-cnd of the
in.md of Owhyhee, we bore up Weft, to ftrikc the ifland on tl>c parallel.
Oufi-^ngitude, by account, was at this time 205'' 65' Eaft of Green-
wich; whereas by obfervation of the fun and moon, it was 209° 20'.
There being fuch a material difference, I preferred the lunar obfcr-
vation.
ii.uiMiyic On the i6th, by frefli dlftanccsof the fun and moon, and moon and"
f^ars, vve were in the longitude of 207° 4+' Eaft, and at noon the ob-
fervcd latitude was 20° 11' Nortli ; our diftance being about thirty
leagues from the illand of Owhyhee.
TiUiy 17 At five o'clock on the morning of the 17th, to our iniinite fatisfac-
tion we difcovered land, bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft North
Weft, at the diftance of fix leagues: but it was (o very hazy, that the
ifland was imperfectly difccrn^cl : in clear weather, the high land of
Owhyhee can be ften at the diftance of twenty leagues.
We had, indeed, good reafcMi to rejoice at the fight of this ifland, as
wc were greatly reduced in the article of provifions. Wc had given
fo large a portion of our ftorcs to the Iphigenia, and our pafliige to the
illands not being fo quick as we had cxpeifted, the idea of that plenty,
and thofe comforts which, as it were, waited our arrival there, filled
every heart witli joy and gladnefs.
As we approached the ifland of Owhyhee, a perfon who had never
vifited this part of the globe, would have fccn nothing by which he
could be led to fuppofe that it was the feat of luxurious abundance.—
The
O
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 575
The liigh, mountainous appearance of the l.uul, atul tlic blacknefs caft 1788.
over it from the fog and vapour, threw I'lich a ghiom on th" wliolo *^'^t'""'»-
Iccnc, as to at^brd noexpedatiun uf hof^Htality from the inhabitants, or
rcfrclhmcnt from cultivation.
It was too late in the evening to clofc in witli the hiiul ; wc tncreforc
hove to for the night, at about the diftancc of four leagues from the
(hore, and waited with extreme 'mpatiencc for the morning.
On the 1 8th, at d.iy-brcak, wc bore up, and proceeded under a gentle Stiirvir is
fail to clofc in witl> the land, which we accomplilhcd about nine
o'clock; when the late barren and unfriendly profpevH: was fucceedcd
by a fcenc that might fuit the fablings of poetry and romantic fiȣlion.
The hazinefs of the morning did not obfcure the varied landfcape before
us. The great mountain, or Mouna Kaah, which is fituatcd on the
Nortli Eafl part of tjje ifland, was cloathcd in clouds, which feemed,
as it were, to be rolling down its declivity ; while its fummit towered
above the vapours, and prcfcnted a fiiblimc objcdl of nature :— from its
bafe to the fca was a beautiful amphitheatre of villages and plantations,
wliile the fhore was crouded with people, who, from the coolncfs of the
morning, were cloatlicd in tiicir party-coloured garments. Some of them
were featcd on the banks to look at the fliip, while others were running
along the fliore towards the little f,\iidy patches where tlicir canoes arc
drawn up, in order to come off" to us. \\\ now hove to in the en-
trance of Toe-yah-yah Bay, which is fituatcd on the Weftcrn fide of
the ifland, and confequently defended from the violence of the trade-
winds : nor was it long before a confiderablc number of canoes came
off to the fliip, with hogs, young pigs, taro-root, plantains, uigar-cane,
and a few fowls.
4
\j\t
14
/I
.h
Xn
■,iS.
Mm 2
It
1
'!>'■ M
m'^
276
1788.
OCTOBEH.
V O Y A G E S T O T H E
It was my intention to draw the fupplies of pork from this iflaiid,
and then proceed to Oneeheow, to procure a fufficient quantity of yams
for the remainder of our voyage. In confequence of this determination,
a very brifk trade was carried on with the natives, and before night
upwards of four hundred hogs were purchafcd. The decks were loaded,
and the boats filled wit!i them and the vegetables, which alfo made a
part of our prefent traffic. Indeed, fuch was the profufion of thele ar-
ticles which were brought to us, that many of the canoes returned
without being able to dlfpofe of their cargoes.
Amonfr the multitude which vlfitcd us on this occafion, I obferved
but one perfon of rank : ho came in a double canoe paddled along by
twelve men, and accompanied by his wife and two young female chil-
dren. He brouglit very large hogs, and a large quantity of cocoa-nuts,
which he ordered on board the fhip, and immediately followed his
prefent, accompanying it with the moft: friendly expreflions and of-
fers of further Icrvice. — Wo were not dilatory in making him a fuita-
ble return ; and having thus won his confidence, I enquired of him con-
cerning the prefent ftate of the ifland, with a view to the advantage of
Tianna. He very readily informed me that old Tereeobeo had been
poifoned, and that his fucccflbr was Tianna's uncle. He alfo added, that
in confequence of this revolution, a very fierce war had taken place be-
tween the inhabitants of Ovvhyhee and thofe of the ifland of Mowec, o,f
which Titeeree was the reignins: foverei
go-
In anfwcr to his informacion, I thought proper to inform him that
Tianna would (hortly return to Atooi in fuch a (hip as mine, and that I
had a prefent from him to the fovereign of Owhyhee, which I defired
the chief would take upon himfelf to deliver, as a mark of Tianna's
attachment to his uncle. By fuch well-timed a«5t of regard, I hoped
to
t<.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
to perform a good office for my friend; and I have fiiicc underftood that
it produced cffedls equal to my mod: fanguhie wifhes. But in order to
give certainty to my commirtion, I made my requcft and delivered the
prefent before a great number of the natives, which was alfo publicly
tabooed: this arrangement was made in order to prevent the chief
from keeping the prefent himfelf, or fubftltuting another of inferior
value.
By funfet we had purchafed a fufficicncy of frefli provilions to laft us to
China ; we therefore prepared to make fail, in order to proceed to Atooi
andOneeheow: biit the number of the natives, and the women in par-
ticular, were fo great, not only covering the decks, where there was
any room, but even clinging to the rigging, that we were under the
neceflity of bribing them with prefents of fome kind or other to pro-
cure their departure. Some of the women took to their canoes, but the
greater part plunged into the fea, and fwam to the Ihore. — The (hip was
no fooner cleared of its vifitors, than it began to blow very fre(h, when
the top-fails were reefed, and we flood under an eafy fail for the
ifland of Mowec.
Wc now immediately fet to work in killing the hogs, and falting
down the meat for fea-ftore. We followed the mode prefcribed by Cap-
tain Cook, who would deferve the gratitude of his country, of every
maritime people, and of humanity at large, if his difcoveries had been
confined even to thofe improvements he made in the interior govern-
ment of fliips and their crews. According to his directions, we falted
down feveral casks of the finell: pork in the world, which I am convinced
would have kept to any length of time that it was poffiblc tor a fhip to
want it. We however made fome fmall improvement, wliiclj confifted
•'.-.' in
477
1788.
OcroviR,
i.
'■J.
\ i
*l^
i4
li^
4 "
C'
278
1788.
OCTODEft.
"'• VOYAGES TO THE —
in preferving the pork of a middle fize, with the bones in it ; but with the
larger hogs we did not find an equal degree of luccefs. For this purpofe
the bone muft be in a great meafure, but not entirely, feparated from
the meat, fo as to permit the fait to penetrate well to thofe parts of the
flefli which remain attached to the bone. We alfo found that fait alone,
placed in layers, anfwered better than pickle ; and we remarked that not
only the heat of the fun was unfiwourable to this operation, but that the
moon pofleflcs alfo a putrefying influence.
TluufUs) 23 Light winds prevented our reaching Atooi until the 23d at noon, when
we anchored in Wymoa-bay. As we pafled by the other iflands, canoes
continually came off to us with young pigs and fugar-canes, which gave
us an opportunity of completing our ftock of the latter. It was indeed
fortunate that we had laid in our ftores of frefli provifions at Owhyhee ;
as, on pafling by Mowce, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, not one large
hog was brought off" to us : — In all probability there was not fufficient
time for that purpofe as the (hip was pafling. — At Woahoo, indeed, wc
undeiftood that the hogs, for fome reafon or other, of which we were
not informed, were at that time under the taboo, — a kind of religious ih-
^crdi(5lion.
, ■ /
We had no fooner caft anchor In Wymoa-bay than it began to blow
fo very ftrong as to prevent any canoes from coming off" to the fliip. —
Indeed I had no other motive for flopping here but to inform Taheo,
the fovcreign of it, tliat his brother Tianna would fliortly return, and
to make him fuch prefents, and take fucii meafures as might be of fervice
to the chief, on his arrival at his native country, which had been for
fome time in a ftate of diftraftion, from the tyranny of its prefent
government , , ,
During
.y,\\
'■ VI
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
During the whole of this day not a canoe appeared ; but in the morn-
ing of the 24th, though it continued to blow very frefli, a canoe came
off with two men and a girl : they brouglit a fmall pig and fome cocoa-
nuts ; nor was I a little furprlzed when the two meli, on entering the
fhip, began to embrace my knees, and to cry out Noota, Noota; the
name, as I have already obferved, by which I was known in thefc
iflands, as well as on the American coaft. Tliey then burft into tears,
and enquired after Tianna.
279
1788.
October.
Friday 14
From thefe people 1 learned that Taheo, growing infirm, fuffered
himfelfto be entirely governed by Abinui, who has been already men-
tioned in the memoir of our firft voyage, and was the deadly foe of Tian-
na. Namaate-haw, another brother of Tianna's, and who was cfteemed,
after him, the braveft warrior of the Sandwich Iflands, had fled with
his brother's wife and children to a diftant part of the ifland, to efcape
from the cruel power of Taheo ; and that fome part of their force was
at this time in arms. It was, therefore, a very natural meafure for Taheo
to forbid all communication between his fubjefts and us, as he believed
that we had brought back Tianna again ; and an inhuman profcription
had been publiflied, threatening him with iiiftant death, if he fliould
land on that ifland. But notwithftanding the taho, thefe faithful
people had ventured to come off to us, in order to inform Tianna,
whom they fuppofed to be on board our fiiip, of his danger. — Befides
the artlefs rnanner in which tlicfe men told their ftory, other circum-
ftaiices concurred to convince us of the truth of it. No canoes vifited
us, and we heard the conchs rcfoundiug from the diftant hills,— a ccr-
tain prelude of war.
Situated as we were, and without any other commutiication with the
ifland but that whicli the zeal of thefe two men had led them to
rlfquc
•
u
s
It
zSo
1788.
Oliober.
VOYAGES TO THE
rifquc from a principle of afFeftion, we could only, by their means,
inform Tianna's wife and brother of the approaching arrival of that
chief, who would fliortly return in a fituation to fupport them and
himfclf againft tlie unnatural proceedings of their tyrannic brother,
and his inhuman minifler. This confolatory and encouraging intelli-
gencc they undertook to deliver, with certain prefcnts, to Namaatc-haw,
and the wife of Tianna ; and having received fuch as were provided for
themlelves, they took an hafty leave, and paddled fwiftly to the fliore.
Till the 25th at noon, we remained in expedation of receiving feme
intelligence from the ifland ; when not feeing a fingle canoe in motion,
we weighed, and proceeded to Oneeheow, where wc anchored about fix
o'clock in tlie evening, nearly in the fame pofition which we had oc-
cupied in the preceding year.
On arriving off this ifland we did not experience the operations of any
prohibition againft us ; on the contrary, we were furrounded by a crowd
of natives, among whom were many of our old friends, whom we perfeftly
recollcdcd, fo that the fliip was very (hortly filled with vifitors of all
ages and both fexes. But among feveral who exprefled their joy to fee
us, and who retained the remembrance of our kindnefs to them, was that
affedionatc ifl.mdcr to whom fome of our officers had formerly given the
well-known, and I may add, honourable appellation of Friday ; and if
any of the companions of my former voyage (hould perufe this page,
they, I am fure, will recolleft with fomcwliat of a grateful remembrance,
the friendly and faithful fervices of honeft Friday. Thofc fervices he now
repeated ; indeed, on the firft fight of tlie (hip, he fwam off to make
an offer of them, and they proved of the utmoft importance to us.
Wc
^-^mni]
\s
.* ,*„*jK:r
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, aSl
Wc bad at this time neither bread or flour on board, and depended J7^^'
on procuring a quantity of yatr.s fufficient to fupply our wants durmg
the remainder of the voyage. But as this was not the fcafon for them,
and they were too young to be dug up, we fhould have found it a
matter of great difficulty to have obtained a fufficient quantity, if
our friend Friday had not undertaken the important negotiation. We,
therefore, provided him with fuch articles as were the moft likely to
forward our purpofes ; and, by his influence and pcrfevcrance, affifted
with the bribes in his poflcflion, he perfuaded many of his friends to dig
up the largeft yams they could find, and bring them to market ; fo tliat
we at length obtained feveral tons of thefe moft neceflary provifions by
the morning of the 27^1 ; and at noon we prepared to put to fca. Monday 27
I am really at a lofs how to defcribe the very marked concern, both
in words and looks, that the inhabitants of this ifland exprcfled, when
they were informed of our approaching departure. Friday, however,
remained to the laft, and with him I entrufteda letter to Captain Doug-
las, with the ftridleft injun£lion to deliver it into his own hands, when-
ever he fliould arrive; which commilfion he readily undertook, and
faithfully performed, as will appear in that part of the Iphigcnia'j voy-
age which relates to the Sandwich Iflands. The fubjcifl of this letter
was to inform Captain Douglas of the political ftate of Atooj, and to
recommend fuch arrangements refpei'llng Tianna, as might tend to rc-
inftate him in his rights, or place him where he might be fecure from
the menaced injuries of his unnatural brotiicr. Nor was Friday forgotten,
whofe fidelity and attachment were already known to Captain Douglas, .
who was an officer on board my fl->ip during our firft voynge. I now
prefented that good fellow with fuch articles as I well knew would afford
him the fatisfaclion he deferved ; when, after fecuringthem in his mam,
which is a cloth that thefe people wear round their middle, he plunged
N n into '
s8a
V O YAG ES TO THE
1788. into the Tea; and as he fwam towards the (hore, from time to time
October. jur,jej hjj jje^d towards us, and waved one hand, while he bufFetted the
billows with the other.
If'
The wind blew frefli from the Eaft North Eaft, when we weighed
anchor, and very foon loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow.
We now purfued our voyage ; and nothing occurred Aifficiently inte-
NoVEMBtR. r JO O J
sundiy 16 rcfting to merit a relation, until the i6th of November, when by feveral
obfcrvations of the fun and moon, and the moon and ftars, our longitude
was 146° 54' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obfcrved latitude 21° 4' North.
— At this time we feldom ran lefs than fifty leagues a day, with very
moderate and pleafant weather.
I. ',''
Our cliii'f occupation, independent of the neccffary attention to the
courfe of the (hip, was to dry and air the skins ; a certain number being
every day got up, fpread in the fun, and then re-packed in the casks. In
performing this bufinefs, we had the fatisfadtion to find that very few of
thefe furs were damaged ; which fortunate circumftance we attributed to
our great care in feeing them packed in dry casks, and keeping them Ic-
curc from all damp.
WwdiicfJa.Mj On the 19th of November, we, for the firft time, experienced fome
alteration in the wind. It blew ftrong from the Weft ; though it did not
remain long in that quarter, but veered all round the compafs ; when it
at length fettled in the Weftern quarter, and blew fo very hard, that
we were obliged to lay to. This gale fplit our main top-fail, and did
TiiurfJay 20 not fubfide till the following day, when it veered again to the Eaft, and
we purfued our courfe.
h
ti If
\\
I
NORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA. 283
It now became a matter of very iieccffary attention to make prepara- 1-88.
tion for thofe tempeftuous feas which we were about to enter. The old Nuvember.
fails were accordingly unbent, and a new fuit brought to the yards ; for it
is well known to tWofe who are acquainted with the navigation of the
China feas, that a paflage to Canton often depends on the goodncfs of a
top-fail or a courfe. The change of the Monfoons, indeed, was over ;
yet even after that dangerous period, very violent gales of wind prevail
inthefefeas; nor does the North Eaft monfoon, which had now taken
its turn, acquire that fteadincfs which precludes all danger, till the
month of December.
The wind did not fix fteadily in the Eaftern quarter till the 2 1 ft, which Friday n
alteration I attributed to our near vicinity to the Ladrone lllands, which •
are known, at times, to alter the current of the trade-winds.
We continued our courfe, without any material occurrence, till the
ift of December ; when in the evening of that day, we made the iflands
of Botol Tobago Xima. The weather was very dark, hazy and un-
pleafant; nor could we get more than a glimpfc, as it were, of thefe
iflands, which however proved fufficient for us to afcertain them. By
cur lunar obfervations, brought forward, we were fix leagues to the
Eaft when we made them.
DlCEMBBR.
Monday i
The neceflity of making thefe iflands has been mentioned in that "
part of the voyage which treats of the various routes into the China
Seas from the Pacific Ocean. The fight of them which we had ob-
tained was, however, fufficient to juftify our running during the night ;
and as there is no other but the iflet, named Little Botol, to the Eaftward
of them, we were fatisfied as to its identity ; and accordingly bore up
to clear the dangerous rocks of Ville Rete, which we eftimated to bear
N n z South.
!V|
^.1
284
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. South Weft bv Weft, thirteen leagues from this idaiid. The clouds
were uncommonly black, and the night had every appearance of bringing
ftorm and tcmpeft along witli it.
I
ViMW
.mt:
About eight o'clock, our expcil.itinns were verified, as it began to
blow very violent from the Nortli Eaft, with heavy rain. We, however,
purfucd ourcourfe, fleering Soutli Weft, which is a point more South-
erly th;ui the rocks bore off us. Indeed, I am clearly of opinion that a
fliip in this fitu.ition, has no alternative but riinning ; for if flic is hove
to, the violent and rapid currents might drift herfo far to the Southward,
— in addition to her nntural drift, occafioncd by the wind and fea, — that
her entrance into the China Seas would become very dangerous ; and, of
courfc, her pafl'agc to Canton be rendered very uncertain. For though
it may be by no means a defirable circumftance to -run in a dark and
tcmpcfliioiis i'i;.'Jit through this narrow channel, yet I do not hefitate
toadvife it in the iliongeft manner, if the iflands of Botol Tobago Xima
have been fcen at any time during the preceding evening.
The ftorm continued, with unabating violence, till twelve o'clock ;
during which time, we purfucd our courle to the South Weft, under
clofe reefed top fails and fore fail, and hauled our wind to the Weft North
Weft, with as mueh wind as the fliip could well bear her courfes, having
as we fuppofed, entered tjie China Seas. At one o'clock it blew with
fuch encreafmg violence, that we could very ill carry the fail we had
aboard; but let the conlequences have been what they might, it was
indifpenfably necefliiry to proceed in this manner, in order to ftcure our
paffage to Canton, the wind hanging as it did fo far to the Northward.
At midnight our latitude, by eftimation, was 21° 30' North, which
was as near as we .juld, with any degree of prudence, round the dan-
gerous
\\
lis
1788.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMFRICA.
gcrous rock of Ville Rctc : .ind, at one o'clock, when \vc liaulcd up, wc
experienced fiich an heavy fca, tliat it bccanit; impoinblc for us to (leer
an higher courfe to tlic Northward iluui VVcft by North, though the
wind was at North Nortli Eaft : at Icaft wc could not take any other
courfe which would not have prevented the (hip from going througli
the fea. Befidcs, as we had rcafon to fear an oppotlni', current, we were
not without apprehcnfions as to our paflage to Canton.
On tlic 2d of December, at ilay break, tlicre was no appearance of TucfJiy »
land. — We had, therefore, every reafon to believe that we were conii-
derably advanced in the China Sea ; but our apprehenfions of being driven
to the leeward of Canton did not entirely fubfide till the 3d, when the WcJnoW.iy j
weather moderated, and the wind vcercd to tlic North Eaft. At noon,
our latitude was 22° 7' North, wluLh cvid.^ntly proved that we had not
experienced any unfavourable current. We now hauled up North Well:
by Well:, in order to m.ikc the coall: of China.
.■
't-
On the 4th, tlie long expevfted land of China appeared, and wc beheld Thurfday4
a fight of the moft plcafing novelty to us, which was compofed of innu-
merable fifliing-lioats difperfcd over tlie fea. We palled by many of them ;
but they are fo well acquainted with European fhipping of tlie largefl:
fize, that they did not (ufFer their attention to be in any degree interrupted
by fo fmall a veflel as the Felice.
As the China coail is already fo well known, I Ihall not delay the con-
dufion of my voyage by any obfervation, but proceed to relate that we
purfucd our courfe during the 4th ; when, in the evening, the Lcma Iflcs
were dilcovercd at about the diftancc of four leagues. As 1 v,'.;s already
acquainted with this navigation, we continued our courfe during the
night between thofe ifles, which is, beyond all coiKpaiiibn, tlie bed
—fr~—~[ — '-9~-
t f
I
1788.
DrCCMBER.
Kridiiy j
VOYAGES TO THE
paflage ; and In the evening of the following day, we happily anchored
in the roads of Macao, the town bearing North North Weft, at the
diftance of three leagues ; when an exprefs was immediately forwarded
to Canton, to inform our friends of the fafc arrival of the Felice.
And here I mud take leave of the reader, whofekind attention has fol«
lowed me through this long and various voyage ; and of which, indeed,
as the two Hiips were obliged to feparate at Samboingan, I may be faid
only to have performed a part. — The fliare which Captain Douglas had
in it will be related in the following chapters.
VOYAGE
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to Cinton, to iuioftu tftif fr'f ;v ihr's uirivai oi the P«!kc.
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
%Zj
VOYAGE
O F T H E
IPHIGENU, CAP^- DOUGLAS,
FROM
SAMBOINGAN, TO THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AxMERICA.
CHAP. XXVI.
^he Felice departs from Sambo tngan. — T'he fubfequent ConduSi of the Ga»
•vernor to Captain Douglas. — Part of the Crew csnfned, and the Ship de-
tained by his Orders. — His unwarrantable ConduB.-^'J'hc Iphigenia
fails from Samboingan. — /Arrives off" a fmall IJland, now named Johnjlone's
IJland, — Communication with the Natives, and a Defcription of them,^
Tawnee^.a Sandwich IJlander, on board the IPHioKtfi \, falls fck and dies.
Sicknefs of the Crew. — Pifs through the Pelew IJliwds.— Communication
ivith the Natives. — j^n affedting CircumJlancCy unknown to Captain Douglas.
T N the narrative of the former voyage it has been related, that on the
■■■ 1 2th of February the Felice left the Iphigenia at Samboingan, pre-
paring to take on board her forc-maft, and then to proceed on her voy-
age.— The caufcs which occafioned the feparation of the two fhips have
already been mentioned ; and the orders delivered to Captain Douglas
on the occafion, are inferted in the Appendix. The following pages,
therefore, contain the voyage of the Iphigenia after (he .was left by her
confort,
1788.
■"FBKI Alt V.
Tuefday 1 1
288
V O YAG E S TO THE
1788. confort; which, we have rcafon to thuik, will be found to contain fome
' important information relative to the geography and commerce of the
North Weft Coaft of America.
h^
M'
I- 1 ^
■J., m^
iil
The Felice was no fooner failed from Snmboingan, than the governor
of the place afl'umcd a very improper and ungenerous mode of condutfl
towards the (hip that remained. The dlvifion of our force had encouraged
him, as we fuppofe, to fome unwarrantable proceedings, which (hortly
ended in a rupture on both fides, to the great injury of the proprietors.
The Iphigenia had received her mart on board and was ready for fea
TuerJayi9 OH the ipth. She had alfo obtained feveral bags of rice, a quantity of
vegetables, and fome cattle from the governor.
As we had been informed that the moft acceptable prcfent we could
make to the governor in return for his civilities and attentions to us,
would be a few bars of iron, I accordingly left fix bars with Captain
Douglas, defiring him to add as many more, to compofe the intended
compliment, and to draw bills on Canton for the amount of any cxpcnces
which might have»bcen requlfite for the (hip and her crew.
Captain Douglas accordingly waited on the governor, and invited
him to dine on board the Iphigenia, previous to her departure. The
invitation was accepted, and the entertainment pafled off, to all appear-
ance, with the moft perfcd fatisfadion to all parties. In the evening
the company adjourned, by the governor's invitation, to a b:ill on fliore.
But under the guife of politenefs and hofpitality, the fubtle Spaniard
was watching to take any advantage in his power ; and on difcovcring
that the principal part of the cargo confifted of iron, hre turned his
thoughts to the acquiiuion of that valuable metal ; — valuable indeed it
might
D
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
289
might be callal, for it purchafcs gold at Magiiidanao. — The King of 17SS.
Spain has prohibited t!iis article from being fold througliout the I'lu- '"''•'■ ^"^•
lippiiics by any pcrfoii whatever, except his ov.ii coniinidloiicri, v,!io
take care to make it a matter of very coflly purchafe : the governor was,
therefore, determined to feizc the prefent fiivourable opportunity of pro-
curing it on the very advantageous terms he conceived to be in his power.
So that when an officer was lent on (hore the following day to fettle tiie WeJiiefaays.
account, — wliich did not, we believe, amount to more tlian two hundred
and fifty dollars, — the governor at once threw off the malk, and not
only declared tliat the whole of his demand fliould be paid in iron,
but that he would fix the price, and arrange t!ie weights according to liis
own plcafure.
Such was the anfwer whicli the oflicer was going to take back, when
he and his boat's crew were arrcftcd by a file of fokliers, and conveyed
to a dungeon. The continuing delay of this officer's return, induced
Captain Douglas to fend another boat on (horo to learn the caufeof his
detention ; when the fecond party fhared the fate of the firft. At the
fame time the governor fent off a large proa, with fifty men, to take
p..'fllinon of the fliip ; and had not Captain Douglas been alarmed for
the confequcnces to his people on (hore, as well as to fome of them
who were placed in a confpicuous part of the boat, he would cer-
tainly have funk her; which might have been done without much
difficulty. He, however, thought it befl to let this armed force approach
without any interruption, and to fufFer the Spanifh fokliers to come
quietly on board and take polTeflion of the fliip.
In confequence of thefe very extraordinary proceedings. Captain Doug-
las went on (hore himfelf, to enquire into the caufe of tlicm : when the
governor informed him that his fole objeft was to fecure tlie payment
O o of
4
♦»
m
«
290
VOYAGES TO THE
178S. of his 1)111 in iron; ami tint the fliip fliould not be fuffcred to depart
VtsRiMn. ^.|| ^j^^ j^^^i^ ^^..^^ huukd. It was in vain to rcprefeiit that he had hhiifelf
riigig' d, on their firft arrival, to take bills for whatever they might wi(h
to purchafe. It was fruitlefs to urge the cruelty and injiiftice of invading
th"; cargo of a veflcl which had come in an afl'urcd confidence to his port,
and liy which the principal advantages of her voyage miglit be loft :— He
was too determined in his bafcnefs to liften to thefe fuggeftions ; and
Captain Douglas was obliged to return on board, and order feventy-eight
bars of iron on fliore, which was nearly half his cargo, together with
one hundred and twenty dollars, which he colle£lcd in the (hip. But the
bufini-fs was not yet finiflied ; — for the governor was very peremptory in
his afl'urances that he would be abfolutely paid in nothing but iron. —
To fuch an exaggerated impotirlon Captain Douglas refufed to fubmit ;
and threatened, in tlie moft ferious manner, if the governor pcrfifted in
his uiiwarrantable dcfigns, that he would throw the fhip on his hands.
This rcfolution brought the Spaniard to reafon, who confcnted at lengtli
to receive the iron and the dollars, and gave orders to withdraw the fol-
diers from the Ihip : he neverthek-fs contrived to retard their departure
till Captain Douglas had font him fome wine, which he had previoufly
promifed him ; and it was not "before he had received this trifling pre-
fent that he rcleafed the people from their confinement.
Such was the condu£l of the governor of Samboingan : but, indeed, no
other treatment was to be expetfled ; as it is well known by every com-
mercial nation, that the fubjctSls of his Catholic Majefty, difperfed through
iii<!n5 21 India, are the refufc of mankind. It was, therefore, the 2zd of February
before the Iphigenla departed. On that day fhe weighed anchor and
put to f a, without expending a grain of powder to do honour to fuch
dilhonourable people.
On
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 291
On the ift of March the Iphigenia had made a very inconfulcrablc pro- 1788.
r I oiLJi ..tiii'i^ I 'II 'I Makcii.
Makcii.
S.iliiri.l:iv I
Sm liy J
On
_ ipnigenia uall niituc a vciy iin-iJiumtiiiuii; jmw-
grefs on her voyage. She had been retarded by light and variable winds ;
while the numerous iflands which (he hourly faw and approached, made
the navigation not only difficult but tedious, as (lie was obliged to proceed
with the utmofl care and precaution.
On the 2d of March, (he fell in with a very dangerous reef of rocks,
which extend Eaft and Weft nearly ten miles. Thcfe rocks bear no
place on any of the charts we had in our pofleftion, and are out of the
water about thefize of a (liip's hull. The centre of tliem lies in the
latitude of 4° 10' North, and longitude, by feveral lunar obfcrvations,
of 126° 39'Eaft of Greenwich. In the pofition which the (hip occupied,
there was a ftrong current letting to the South Eaft.
They continued their couiTe amldft this archipelago of rocky illets
till the 6th ; when at noon of that day, the latitude was 3" 45' North, ThurWjy $
and the longitude 129° / Eaft. TIic variation of the compafs was
a' 15' Weft.
As they were proceeding to the Northward and Eaftward on the
pth of March, a fmall ifland appeared bearing Eaft half North, at the Suniiy 9
diftance of about ten or twelve leagues. They continued fteering up
with it till nine at night, when obferving a great number of lights on
the fliore, Captain Douglas imagined that they were kept burning in
order to induce the (hip to ftop. At eleven o'clock, it being confidered
as hazardous to run during the night, which was very dark, the (hip
was hove to, but no foundings could be obtained with fifty fathoms
of line. — At break of day on the loth, they made fail to clofe in with Monia i.
the land, when feveral canoes were fcen approacliing. They tlicrefore
agam hove to, in order to permit the natives of the ifland to conic on
Ooz board.—
\M
•9*
:.' ^ .
ei
1788.
Maki-h.
t-
VOYAGESTOTHE
board. — For fomc time they kept at a certain diftance, holdiijg up
cocoa-nuts In their hands ; but they no fooner faw the hatchets which
were expofcd to their view in return, than the Iphlgenia was favoured
with an immediate vifit. From the whole of their conduft, It very
evidently appeared tliat they had never before beheld fuch a*n ob-
jc£k as that which now engrofled all their regard, as it called forth their
utmoft aftonifliment; and from the very great indifference with which
they promifcuoufly received everything that was ofrered to, them, it
feemcd as if the (hip alone was the objedl of their attention.
It was intended that the Ipliigenia fhould remain off thi? ifland for
a day, in order to get a fupply of water, of which they wen informed
by the natives there was great abundance. In the aftcrnocn rhe canoes
returned with more cocoa-nuts and taro-root, and the inhr.b-.Mnts fccmcd
to have learned, fince their laft vifit, tlie value of iron; as they now
would take nothing but Ozvajbeet Qwall.^eey which is their word for that
metal. They were entire flrangers to fire-arms ; for on one of them ex-
prefTing a wl(h to have a piftol, Captain Douglas difcharged it ;— which
alarmed him to fuch a degree, that wlien it v ni held towards him, he
kifled the barrel, but could not be perfuaded to lay hold of it.
This ifland, which was now named Johnftonc's Ifland, lies in the la-
titude of 3° 1 1' North, and in the longitude of 131° 12' Eaft. It confifts
of low land covered with verdure, and cocoa-trees, and is about a league
in circumference. One tree in particular rifes above the reft^, and ap-
pears at a difl:ance like a fliip under fail. — What the ifland produces, be-
fides cocoa-nuts and the taro-root, was not difcovered, as the inhabitants
brought nothing to barter but thofc articles. — The natives did not ap-
pear to exceed the number of two hundred, and are a ftout, robuft
people. Their canoes, which held twelve or fourteen of them, were
exadly
tif ^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
exn£lly the (hme as tliofc of the Sandwich Ifliiuls ; and the pco| le not
only dilplaycd tlic fame activity in the water as the Sandwich Iflandcrs,
but made iifc of fevcral exprcHlons which Tianna readily undcrftood.
A fine brec/e fprinj^in^j up, Captain Douglas gave up hisdclign of taking
in water at this idand, and continued his courfe to tlie Eaft'.vard.
'■93
1788.
Makcii.
The Iphigcnia proceeded in her voyage with very little variation of
weather, till the i6tli ; when Tawnce, a Sandwich Ifl.indcr, from his sumiayis
watchful care and anxiety during Tianna's illncfs, was now fick hinilclf.
Several of the crew were alio in the fame fituation ; and the firft officer,
who had been ill upwards of a month, was not yet recovered ; and tlierc
was every reafon to fear a general ficknefs throughout the (hip. Tianna
was now entirely recovered, and owed the rc-eftabli(hmcnt of his health
to the Peruvian bark, which operated almoft miraculoufly upon the chief
of Atooi. The latitude from obfervation was 2" 0' North, and the longi-
tude 156° 48'Eaft.
» *
The poor amiable iflander at length baffled all the care which was be-
ftowed upon him. — A continual bleeding at tlie nofe was the firfl fymp-
tom ; and when that flopped, a fever fucceeded, which feemed for fome
fliort time to yield to the bark ; but the dlforder at length triumphed,
andTawnee was the viflim. About one o'clock, on the 23d, he quitted Sunday ij
this world, and was conllgned, with the regret of every one on board,
to a watery grave.
From a continuance of light and variable winds, with occafioiial calms,
tlie Iphigcnia advanced but very flowly on her voyage: It was therefore •
determined on the ^Stli, particularly as the llcknefs on board feemed ra- liiJay is
ther to Incrcafi.', to take every advantage of getting to tlie Northward.
Tlic flilp was therefore put on the other tack, and though ihe did not
make
i/!<^J
llli
29 +
VOYAGES TO THE
I "88. make better than a Nortli Weft, and fomctlmes a Nort!\ Weft by Weft
M*«iii. courfc, ftill it was better than contimiiiig under t!iat which had been at-
tended witli fuch difcvour.igiiig circumftances.
-I
f
\\
;:••
/ !
t
i
>*
«.i'm.'.i> >•> On the 29th, tlicy liad light airs and cahns, with frequent fqualls of
?iii,.!..y 30 rain.; nn the 30th there was a modjratc breeze from the Xortliward and
Eaihvanl, acconipaiiitd alfo witli fqualls and rain, which continued to
jovvail tliidugh fcveral fuccccding days.
,%r,..uv.;ji On tlic 31(1-, th; wliul varied from Nortlj Eall to Eaft Noilli Eart ;
and fometiiucs Nortli North Eaft ; — and, as tlicy were approaching a
groupc ofiflandi, called the Carolines, Captain Douglas gave orders to
b.ii.l the bed: bower and ftrcam cables, and to keep a very ftrld look-
out, ai tliere would be great danger in fqually, thick weather, and at
the change of tlu moon, among a heap of low iilaiuls which had never
been accurately furvcycd. It was thought necefl'ary thcrctore to run
cvcrv riik to get to the Northward, in order to obtain vari.il)lo winds,
au.l to g< t a.; foon as poiriblc from a vertical fun, and into more tempe-
rate v.eatl:cr.
WetinciJ.iy j ^" ^hc 2d of April, a frefti breeze fprung tip from the Northward and
Eadward, with fqualls and heavy rain ; but about ten o'clock in the
morning the clouds difpcrled, and from the medium of feveral very good
diftances of the fun and moon, the longitude was 13+° 36' Eaft of
Circcnwich, and tlic obfervcd latitude 7° 2^' North.
Tiiiufday 3 On the 3d, they had a fine breeze, with clear weather: at iialf pafl:
four in the afternoon faw land ; and at fun-fet its extremities bore from
Well: South Weft to Weft by North, diftant about {even or eight
leagues. As the Iphigcnia began to be in want of wood, and in the hope
of
%%M
NORTH Wr, ST COAST 01' AMERICA.
of olUiiiiiiiig roots, of fomc kiml or other, as well as cocna-mits, Captniu
Doiifjas determined to take tliis opportunity of rupplylnjr the fliip. Ac-
cordiiijMy, at eight in tho cvcninj";, orders were given to (hortcn Tail, and
heave the main-topfail to the malt.
Atd.u'-hrc;ik on the 4th, two low Iflands were fecii, covered with trees,
bcnrinp; Nortli Weft by Weft, at the diftancj of liven or eight league:.
The land obferved the preceding evening, now bore Weft South Weft,
at the diftanee of ten or twelve leagues. As the l.ittcr appeared to bj
high land, and of confiJer.ible extent, it was confidered as the moft likely
to alTord fomc pl.-.ce of (belter and fecurity ; but on a nearer apj)r(Kich, it
was dilcoveri-d to ciinlift of a cliUKr of illinds ; thev therefore hauled
their wind and ftood for the two low iflands.
295
17S8.
Friday 4
At liven in tlic evening feveral canoes were fecn coming from them
towards the (hip. — When they came alongllde, they were prefented with
a fmall hatchet and two or three knives, which they took, and gave in
return their whole cargoes, which confifted of nothing but two or three
pieces of taroand a few cocoa-nuts.— In addrtfhng tlumfelvesto the peo-
ple in the fliip, they appeared to repeat the words Eng/i/Jj and Moon',"
which were naturally fuppo(ed to allude to myfelf, as it was then ima-
gined that I had paflcd through tlielc iftands, and in my paflage had
obtained Ibmc communication with the natives.
it' ''
f
As there was no poflibility of approaching the South Eaft fide of cither
of thefc iflands, they ftood to the Northward, in order to get round a
reef of rocks, and to examine the North Weft fidcof the laigeft of thefe
iflands; but on advancing towards it, reef appeared within reef, and
from
• Or probably Mora mty, wliich figniiics in the Ptlcw languare, Ccme to me.
#
S96
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. from tlic maft-hcad, a range of rocks were fecn, extending to the NoitTi-
^^'■'"'* ward and Wcdvvard as far as the eye could reach. — Tiic rock they were
cndcavouiing to weather, was now about a league under their Ice ; tluy
therefore hauled their wind to the North.
Several cances ftill followed the fliiji clofc, and, for a few nails, which
were lowered over the ftern in ,1 b.ilket, a return was made of an iuconfi-
rlcrable number of cocoa-nuts. — The people in oneof the canoL-s were in-
deed dlfpofed to play tlie rogue, and when they had got polfeihon of the
nails, rehifcd to make any fat is fact ion. ^'aptain Douglas therefoie fired a
muflcet over their heads, when every one ot them leaped inftantly over-
b-;ard, and remained under th.- lee of their canoe ; while thofe in the other
canoes, as if they felt themfelves protected by their innocence, did not
difcover any llgns whatever of terror or apprcI;cnf;on.
il
I
^'. *:
hi
One of tliefe boats continued to follow the IphlgcnI.i for a long time,
and one of the people cried out, from time to time, Ecdoo, Eeboo, and
excrt.d himfelf to the iitmoft In making figns for them to go back. —
Indeed, when he perceived that all his endeavours were vain to perfuade
them to return, his actions bore the appearance of a man in the moft fran-
tic diftrefs. — After fome time they obierved another canoe, containing at
leafl: twenty men, paddling towards them. At firrt they imagined that
there were fome Europeans on board, and accordingly hove to; but
when it was difcovered that there were none but Indians, they immcdi-
atelv made fail, as the (hip was drifting faft towards the rocks under
her lee :— the canoe however overtook them, and the people in her
difcovered the liime eager anxiety with the other natives for the return
of the fliip ; but as Ihe was at this time in a dangerous fituation, very
little attention was paid to the crying and continued entreaties of the
iflanders.
Captain
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
Captain Douglas was now among the Pclcw Iflaiuls; a partlculav
■knowledge and admirable dcfcription of which, we owe to the fenfibility
and talents of Mr. Keate rThe account of tlum written by that gentle-
man, from the information of Captain Wilfon, and other pcrfons be-
longing to the Antelope packet, which was wrecked on the rocks tliat
furround them, has been fo generally read, that I may fpeak of tlie
circumftanccs which conneft it with this page, as a matter of univerfal
information. — Captain Douglas was ignorant that the Antelope had been
loft here ; and that her crew on one of thefe iflands built a veflcl, in
which they returned to China. He therefore could not know that his
countrymen had received every aid, comfort, and kindncfs which thefe
hofpitable iflandcrs could afford ; and that the fovercign of them had
cntrufted his fon to the care of Captain Wilfon, to return with him
to England, to be inlbufted in the arts and manners of our country.
Had he been acquainted with thefe interefting occurrences, there is no
doubt but his humanity would have exerted itfelf to the utmoft, in or-
der to contrive fome further communication with them ; — for who can
have the leaft doubt but that the canoes which followed the Iphigenia
were fent to receive Lcc Boo ; or at leaft, to hear fome intelligence
concerning him ; and that the native who has been defcribed as calling
after the ftiip, and employing the moft frantic atflions, when he found
that he called in vain, was any other than Abba Thulle, the father of
the young prince, agitated by the moft poignant fenfations of difappoint-
mcnt and defpair.
397
1788.
AVKIl..
As no attention whatever had been then paid by the Eaft India Com-
pany to Abba Thulle, for the kind and humane treaticent afforded by
him to the crew of their Ihip the Antelope, he may be fuppofcd to have
been fufFering, for too long a time, the alternate imprcfJions of hope and
P p fear.
:\ ,
'^i
:«v>s».
I
t
298
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. fear. — It may therefore be conceived what his feelings were, when he
ArRii.. firft faw the dirtant Ihllsof the Iphij^enia whiten in the fun. It may
alfo be imagined with what hafte his canoe was launched from the
beacli to bear him to the (hip, and iiow fwiftly /he was driven on to
receive, as he might hope, a Ion, wlio was returned with the various
knowledi^e and attainments of Europe, to aiorn and improve his own
country. — But it is difficult to conceive, as it would be impoflible to de-
fcribc, what fuch a mind as his muft feci, when the Iphigenia proceeded
on her way, and the people on board, occupied in avoiding the furrounding
dangers, were as inattentive to his diftrefs, as they were ignorant of the
caufe of it. — We muft, however, be contented to lympathize with the
affliction of this amiable chief, as he returned in melancholy difappoint-
ment to his ifland, — and continue to accompany the Iphigenia on her def-
tined courfe..
n
At noon they liad a very good obfcrvation, when the latitude was
8° 20' North ; the bearings of the ditferent iflands were as follow : the
largeft of the two iflands, which Captain Douglas named Moore's Ifl.md,
in honour of his friend Mr. Hugh Moore, bore South by Eaft, half Eaft,
diftant about five or fix leagues ; • two others, that were low and fandy,
and which he named Good Look-out Iflands, bore Weft South Weft,
half South, diftant three or four leagues. — From the former to the latter
is a reef of rocks, wliich runs in a North Weft dire»Sion, to the diftance
of eleven or twelve leagues, and extends five leagues to the North of the
other two.
1 f I
t
Friday 4 At ouc o'cloclc iii tiic aftcmoon they founded, and found that they
were in eight fathom water; as the current fet them to the Weft-
ward, th'-v flood on, being appichenfive, if they went on the other
tack,
^»i!t
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 299
tack, that they fliould risk the being driven down on tlie reef, which 1788.
was at this time on their lee-beam ; they therefore kept the lead going ; A"""^"-
and as the water was clear to the bottom, people were ordered to the
maft-head to give notice of any immediate danger, which mi<!;ht be cafily
avoided, as the fea was fmooth, and the day remarkably clear.
At half part two Moore's Idand bore South by Eaft, diftant fifteen
leagues ; and till fix in the evening the foundings were from eight to
twenty fathoms, over iarge rocks. The lead was kept going every half
hour during the night, without finding any bottom ; and in tlie morn-
ing thiy had a fteady breeze, having got clear of all the rocks and
flioals which they met with in thofe unknown fcas. — As they ikkI fcveral
good obfervations of the fun and moon the day before they made land,
they were able to determine the latitude and longitude of Moore's
Ifland, as well as of the reefs and flioals that extended to the North-
ward of it. — At noon, on the 3d, the latitude by obfervation was 8° 20'
North ; Moore's Ifland then bearing South by Eaft half Eaft, diftant five
leagues. Good l^ook-out Iflands bore at the fame time Weft Soutli Weft
half South, diftant three leagues; fo that the former lies in the latitude
of8°6'North, and longitude, reduced by the log, 134° 6' Eaft; and
the latter i-.re in the latitude of 8° 13' North, and the longitude 133" 58'.
The great flioal extends to the Northward as far as 8° 45' ; — to the Eaft-
waid 134" 13'; and to the Weftward as far as the eye could reach from
the maft-head, flioal-water was vifible ; which, in all probability, runs
as far as the longitude of 133" 30' Eaft.
During the night no foundings were obtained with fifty fathoms of Saturday j
line. At eight in the morning, being in the latitude of Los Martines,
they bore up a couple of points, in order, if poflible, to get fight of it
I
llm
f. ■
M
■i
1' •''
.™*£«H^JjSl2S*i«».--
300
1788.
Arm.
VOYAGES TO THE
by noon ; — but as there was no appearance of land. Captain Douglas
hauled his wind, chuHng rather to fubmit to the inconvenience
which might arife from the want of wood, than risk his arrival on
the coaft of America too late in the feafon. He therefore no longer
thought of looking for an harbour among a groupe of iflands where,
perhaps, no harbour of fufficicnt flielter and protection was to be
found.
♦'■', »^? ill 1
i^Kmsd^
C H A \\
-^
A
m \
North west coast of America.
301
J 788.
NUr.
CHAP. XXVII.
See the IJlatul of AmIuJi.—See Land, which is mijlaken for trinity If and.
—A mojl violent Gale. — Defcripticn of the Land. — See the IJland of
Kodiak. — See 'Trinity IJland. — Arrive off the latter. — Vifitedbytwo Canoes.
— Send the Jolly-boat on Shore with an Officer, to try for F'ljf}, which re-
turned with a fmall ^antity procured from the Natives. — See Cape Gre-
ville. — Pafs the Barren I/lands. — Receive a Fi/it from a Ruffian and foine
Kodiak Hunters. — Run up Coolis River. — Communication with the Natives.
—Difpatch the Long-boat up the River. — InftruSlions to the Officer who
commanded her. — Long-boat returns. — The Iphigenia weighs Anchor and
drops down the River. — Steer to the South-end of Montagu IJland. — Stand
in for Snug-corner Bay. — Several Cames come off to the Ship.— Difcover
that the Ship Prince of IVales had quitted the Bay ten Days befre, Izc.
NO event took place but the mere ordering and courfe of the (hip,
till the 30th of the fucceeding month, when (he was arrived in rridaT^o
huitude 50° 29' North, and longitude 188" 26' Eaft of Greenwich. —
The weather was moderate and hazy, and the wind fettled at North
Eaft. Early in the morning they ("aw the Ifland of Amluk, bearing
North by Eaft, at the diftance of aboyt twenty-four leagues. At nine
o'clock they wore and ftood in for the land. At noon the weather be-
came clear, and they faw the land bearing North North Eaft, diftanC
from twenty to twenty-three leagues.
On
i^l^
•■.•:v**ji,!l%i"
N>*iii - .— -
. .*.. ...»».
I
30a
1788.
Mav.
Saturday 3 1
June.
Suiiduv I
. V O Y A G E S T O T H E .
On the 3 1 ft, they had light winds and cahns ; af ten o'clock in the
morning the clouds difperfed, and there was clear weather for half au
hour ; when an opportunity was taken to get a number of diftances
of the fun and moon, from a medium of which the longitude was
190" 19' Eaft of Greenwich, and the obferved latitude 50° 58'Nortli.
The early part of the following day was clear and moderate; but
the latter was cloudy, with frcfli breezes. The crew were now bufily
employed in airing and mending tlie fiiils. The latitude was 51" 49'
North, and the longitude 193° 32' Eail of Greenwich.
M mtjay i
Tiicidjy 3
A fteady breeze from the VVeftward, continued with hazy weather
through the whole of the 2d ; and on the 3d they altered the courfc
from North Eaft to North Eaft by North. The arms were now
cleaned, and the arm-chcft got off the deck into the cabin, to get
them out of the way both of the feamen and the favages ; for as they
were approaching the land, there was good rcafon to expc£l a vifit
from the latter.
I;'i'«
Wff'
Wi 'I
Mm :|
i'
'i,''
Thuifday 5 On the 5th, at day-light. Trinity Ifland was ftcn bearing North
North Weft, diftant feven or eight leagues. At nine it bore South
half Eaft, fix or feven leagues ; and at noon the breeze which had
blown all the morning to the North Eaft, encreafcd to an hard gale ;
when the latitude, from an indifferent obfervation, was 56° 29' North,
aiid the longitude 204° 54' Eaft.
Fiiiay 6 At Hoon it blcw hard, and the gale encreafed, fo that they were obliged
to hand the fore-fail and clofe reef the main top-fail: at eight in the
evening, the extremity of the land from Cape Trinity, bore Eiaft
North Eaft, to North Weft by Weft, being diftant from the neareft
land
><*.
I'f 1:;
Nn
\ \
, .JIto J«^ 3--*
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
land fix leagues. At eleven o'clock wore the fhip, and ftood to tiie
Southward and Eaftward. At fix in the morning Cape Trinity bore
North North Eaft, at the diftance of about twelve or thirteen leagues.
The gale continued to encreafe, and at lix in the evening, the fliip wore
and ftood to the Northward. No obfervation was made on this day.
3'^3
1788.
JvNe.
At four in the morning, it blew an hurricane, — reefed and handed Saturdays
the main-fail, and laid the fliip to under a balanced try-fail, and got three
balance tackles on the gaff to fupport it. At five, they faw the land,
the extremities from Port Trinity bearing North North Weft, to Weft
South Weft, and Two Headed Point Weft North Weft,— diftant from
the body of the land twelve or fourteen leagues. At fix they wore, and
lay to on the larboard tack. It now blew the moft tremendous ftorm
that had ever been fccn by any pcrfon on board ; and at four in the
afternoon the gale not being in the Icaft abated, they got the top-
gallant mafts down on deck, laying to with the head of the fliip to the
Southwaid and Eaftward. About five the gale abated, but there was a
moft Hreadfui Tea ftill running. At nine they made fail, and got the top-
gallant mafts and yards up. On the 8th, the wind ftill continued to sunJayS-
the Northward and Eaftward, but rather variable. The land was feeu
bearing North Weft, diftant five or fix leagues. The obferved latitude
was 56" ao' North. Longitude 205° 36' Eaft..
On the 9th, they had fair weather, with moderate and lio-ht breezes MonJay^
from the Eaftward. The ifland which Captain Douglas took for Trinity
Ifland, as it is in the fame latitude and longitude which iiad been laid
down, lies off the mouth of a large bay, furrounded with low land. The
hills were covered with fnow, while the low lands pofl'eflcd the fiiieft ver-
dure, but not a tree was feen on the one or the other. In this bay there
is.a fecurc flielter tVom the North Weft winds, which, had it been known,
would :
• «
y
S«4
1788.
JUNI.
T'''
VOYAGES TO THE
would have afforded a certain prote£tioii to the Iphigenia in the
late violent gale of wind. This land forms part of the coaft between
Foggy Ifland and Trinity Ifland, mentioned by Captain Cook, and has
by no means the barren appearance of that land which is to the North-
ward of Trinity Ifland, and the Southward of Cape Greville. As the
wind continued to the Eaftward, they plied to the windward, and flood
into eight fathoms of water, with a fandy bottom.
I'
TiiefJiyio On the loth the weather was moderate and hazy. At fix in the af-
ternoon they got a fight of the liind, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the
*, diftance of about ten leagues. This land forms a cape projefting into
^ the bay, which was now named Cape Hollings. It lies in the latitude
of 57" 13' North, and the longitude of 207° 3' Eaft. During the
night no foundings could be obtained with feventy fathoms of line. —
Wednefdnyii On the following day at noon, t!,e extremities of the land bore from
Weft North Weft to Eaft by South ; the Ifland of Kodiak bearing Eaft.
The obferved latitude was then 56° 56' North, and the longitude, by a
lunar obfervation, 205' 36* Eaft of Greenwich. It had been rather calm
through the day ; but about five o'clock in the afternoon, a breeze fprung
up from the Southward and Eaftward, and drew round to the Eaft. —
They worked up the coaft, and ftood in (hore to nine fathoms of water
with a muddy bottom, the current being very much againft' them.— At
Tliurfdayi* "0°" of the 1 2th, Trinity Ifland bore Eaft half South ; the extremities of
the continent bearing from Eaft North Eaft half Eaft, to North half
Weft ; the diftance of the (hip, from the neareft land, was at this time
feven leagues. The obferved latitude was 56** 48' North ; and from a
mean of eight diftances of the fun and moon about three quarters after
twelve at noon, the longitude was 205** 5' Eaft of Greenwich.
( \
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OTTER Sound.
Laliludr A.tf i.VXnrth.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA,
At feven in the evening, a fine breeze fpriing up from North Nortli
Weft, as they were fteerhig through tlic paflage between Trinity Ifland
and the mahi, when they had regular foundings from feventeen to feven
fathoms, over a bottom of fine fand.
5 A' ./ I ^
On the North fide of the ifland towards the fea, there is a very fine
bay, where fliips may run in with fafety. Copious ftreams of water
were running from the mountains, and great quantities of drift wood
lying along the fhore. About eight a native came off to the fhip in a
fmall canoe, and taking off the head of a feai which he wore on his own,
he made them an obeifance, andalked them how they did, in the Ruflian
language:— when, having taken a fnrvey of the {hip, he paddled Lack
to the (bore. Shortly after, another canoe with one man in it paid them
a vifit ; who, in return for a few beads, with which he appeared to be
infinitely deliglited, offered the fkin of a grey fox ; but not being able
to make it faft to the ftiip, as (he was at this time making a deal of
way through the water, he took it back with him. This man did not
fpeak the language either of Cook's River or Nootka Sound.
( ■ - " Sr i ^ ■
They had in the morning of the 13th, light airs and calms, and
at ten in the morning had- cleared the paflage. At noon, the ob-
ferved latitude was 56° 45' North ; and longitude, from the refult of
fevcral obfervations was, paft noon, 206° 6' Eafl: : the extremities of
Trinity Ifland bearing from. South Eaft by Eaft to South Weft ; and
tliofe of the coaft from Weft South Weft, to North North Eaft, at
the dlftance of four or five leagues. The variation of the compafs was
24° 51' Eaft. At eight o'clock in tlie evening the extremities of the con-
tinent bore from South Weft half South, to North North Eaft. At nine
they tried the current, and found it running four fathoms an hour.
3^5
^^
1788.
J t N F .
Friday 13
Q.q
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306
1788.
JUNt.
i<a!urday 14
V O TAG E S TO THE
It being calm and no figns of a breeze, and as they had no founding*
at the fliip, which was four leagues from the land. Captain Douglas
fent the jolly-boat with an officer on (hore, to get fomc fifli. At noon
the extremes of the coaft bore from South Weft to Cape Greville North
North Eaft, and Trinity Ifland South Weft by South, at the diftance of
ten leagues. At noon the obferved latitude was 56* 59' North, and the
longitude 206° 3' Eaft. About one o'clock in the afternoon, a light
breeze fpringing up, the (hip flood towards the ftiore, and a gun was
fired, as a fignal for the boat. At four flie returned with fome hali-
but. Mr. Adamfon, the officer who commanded her, informed Captain
Douglas that they had met with fome fiftiing canoes, and that the
people who were in them, parted very readily witli what fifti they
had, but requefted fnufF in return, holding forth their boxes to be re-
pleniflied. At firft it was fuppofed that they were Ruffians ; but on con-
fidering their drefs, with the incifion of the under<lip, it was very evident
that they were either Kodiak hunters, or fome of the natives of Cook's
River : — ^Though two years before, fnufF was a commodity to which the
latter difcovercd an extreme averfion.
Sunday ij On the ifth, the wind was from the Northward and Eaft ward, with
a fog. At four o'clock in the afternoon a frefli breeze fprung up, but
the thick hazy weather continued through the day. About five on the
Monday 16 moming of the 16th, the weather cleared, when they faw Cape Greville
on their beam, bearing Weft, at the diftance of nine leagues. They then
altered their courfe to North North Weft, with a fine breeze. At noon
Cape Whitfunday bore Weft half South. The extremities of the
land from the ifland of Saint Hcrmogenes, bore North Weft by North
A ten leagues, to South Weft by Weft. Here they faw feveral fea-otters
fporting in the water, and great numbers of whales.— The latitude
at noon was 58" 01' North, and the longitude 207° 33' Eaft of
• Greenwich
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>iOit'f.H WE3T rr*'f. ?«T-r»T' a^if^.tca
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flrefeiwvich. A*
when they p'^^'
:....:-•.. .1..... 14..!.' i.*;i,i he i«t>u4h\var<{,
caiT-ii r.lnngWi;'. -. :v. ^'cr t '1 . ' , i.:-i iKortly aftrr ■ v. . 'i
^aiiic piacc, with fmiw Kodiak hunters. Tiicy bri>u^;ht- a pr^vfitnt tdyt.
dmrrn rreOi fnlmd, n»>tJ »n r<*nirn rer.eivc<;J a fmnll quautUjr «,rf' hnady
and fomc tobacco. At n . . Utc extJetj.cs of the latbt aid ifltfcre hc^
from Sduth hali VVVn-, tdNoj-ti; Weft by fC<wth , nd Html: oh fhrvlsft-
ho.^r.l fuk, from Souih So-fth Eafl, to Mom h half Wril ; Cajj« I>;'\i«f*A
fcJK W< ft half S« Uth ; Mow^k Saint Aw^,«fti»'p, N^rtn Wei^ htff
Weft ; Point Bcdc, South EaA half li-'-ft ; &\\A Anchwr Point. N*f{i'lw,'.f
"Wi'Tt ; dUr;\nt from tiic (Lirbonrd arsd, nciir**^ (lawc 42*out iix oc levgn
Jv«».
Yuda.»y 17
I I
i>^l
;^
, Th^ t*f'»t^'^ af i^'Joti vrns <;9'' +1' Nurth. 'they bid %^ht win4« «» tib#r
run ■'.«? C-Mjk'i Rivfr ; and ahc'ji tvn in il\c Alffmooit lev-n ftr ea^t
can^'vsc.v/ne ;»1r)np,r;d^. from ;t hw hT't's.th.w vv'pfc n ?i^rt'< way ^^^ratAv^f
"ths thtp. AU the iiftuvea of this |jt«c* were vitlt<^)toen, wvitoMaaaimiiy
pr\Kiu':'^*i their ticketsy as }-.iirporis ic, 'goo-.il ofjkvje i* bwi: x\-yf "iv^tr" it/ pCKif
as not to t reduce :m inch of f.ir amon};ft tjit;n. About three in thi «f-
ternuon the tide fet fo llrnng «gaii\ft them, as well as 'it. fhuic, that they
u'-froi^kJv.T the t^Ci,e!r;ty of dfopping anchor m fiv*: firthw'ma And ai> hm(
wattis-, Jtvotsf rw» miJefc fio»j th', fl»ofe.-^ife« **ftifct»iik.'9 ©f tiw Js^^
were ft8 -nilkm' j-^H;"'^ fl-arbct^rH flvost-," #lfe6 S©«tfc !»? Sa^»' toKoiih.
I
tivcs a«*fe not provided vfuh'rltcfv ■^. i ■. iMix of faKt;, tiir ■,■■••),
to purciiaic Ultra on »r,r t-.-^au. — i j«h t« mc degradnvg (yiUrn of sUr. kuiGan ;raiJ« «:.
in- iiH; ytry tt^j^y
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'NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
t^reenwich. At midnight they h;id a frefli gale from tlie Southward,
when they pafled the Barren Iflaiuls. At fix in the morning two canoes
came along-fide from Point Bede, and fhortly after a Ruffian from the
fame place, with fome Kodiak hunters. They brought a prcfent of a
dozen frefh falmon, and in return received a fmall quantity of brandy
and fome tobacco. At noon, the extremes of the larboard fliore bore
from South half WefV, to North Weft by North ; and thofe on theflar-
board fide, from South South Eaft, to North half Wcfl ; Cape Douglas
bore Weft half South ; Mount Saint Augufline, North Wcfl half
Wcfl ; Point Bede, South Eafl half Eafl ; and Anchor Point, North half
Wefl ; diflant from the flarboard and nearefl fhore about fix or feven
miles.
The latitude at noon was 59" 41' North. They had light winds as they
Tun up Cook's River ; and about two in the afternoon feven or eight
canoes came along-fide, from a few huts that were a little way a-head of
the (hip. All the natives of this place were ticket-men, and immediately
produced their tickets, as paflTports for good ufage ;* but they were fo poor
as not to produce an inch of fur amongfl them. About three in the af-
ternoon the tide fet fo flrong againfl them, as well as in fhorc, that they
were under the neceffity of dropping anchor in five fathoms and an half
water, about two miles from the fhore. — The extremities of the land
were as follow : — The ftarboard fhore, from South by Eafl, to North
* Tliefc tickets are purchafed by the Indians from the Ruflian traders at a very dear rate,
under a pretence that they ^'ill fecure them from the ill treatment of any ilrangers who
may vifit the coaft ; and as they take care to exercifc great cruelty on fuch of the na-
tives as are not provided wiihthefe inftruments of fafety, tlie poor people are very happy
to purchafe them on any terms. — Such is the degrading fydem of the Rudian trade in
thefe parts ; and forms a ilriking contrail to the liberal and humane fpitit of Britiili com-
merce.
CLqa
*M
307
1788.
Juki.
Tuefday iT
i
•
half
II
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II 11
Wmi
mm
308
1788.
JUNI.
VOYAGES TO THE
half Weft : the larboard ftiore, from South South Weft, to Nortlj Wtft
by Weft : Cape Douglas, Weft by Soutli : Mount St. Auguftine, Weft :
Anchor Point South by Eaft half Eaft ; diftant ten or twelve miles.
It' A ffllf }]
■k
>\>dncrdayi8
Captain Douglas now ordered the boat to be hoiftcd out, in order to go
on ihore to look for the watering-place, and obfervc the behaviour of
the natives.— On landing, they found a fmall river running by the fide of
the huts, and the natives very ftiy. About fifty or threefcorc of them
fat b.isking in the fun, on the oppofite fide of the river, who took no
notice whatever of the boat's crew. As the Iphigenia was in great want
of wood and water, it was abfolutely necefl'ary to remain in their prcfent
fituatiun till a fufficimt fupply was obtained of thefe cflential articles. —
Befides, there were no more than two casks of beef, and one of pork, on
board, to ferve them the reft of the fummer, and, as it might happen, to
carry them down to the Sandwich Iflands. A fupply of filh was therefore
necefl'ary to enable them to run the coaft down to the Southward, where
they expciflcd to find abundance of furs ; and this river was expected to
yield plenty of falmon, which might be falted down for the remaining
part of their voyage.
It was dcfigncd, on the morning of the 18th, to move the (hip
higher up, fo as to lie oppofite the mouth of this river ; but before
the tide became favourable ftie touched the ground ; they therefore run
out the kedgc, hove up immediately, flipped the hawfer, and made fail,
when they found a bank on the outfide with only two fathoms and a half:
it being at this time low water, the boat was fent a-head to found ;
when they ran up the river about eighteen miles, and came to with the
ftream, over a fandy bottom, and about a mile and an half from the
fliore, whicli liad a fteep beach. The boat was then fent to find out the
moft convenient place for watering.
Soon
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
JOV
1788.
JUMI.
Soon after they had dropped the anchor, fcveral canoes came from the
huts which they fiw yefterday : and though the natives had nothing to
fell, they continued near the Hiip till the evening. Some of them, in-
deed, caught .1 ftw falmon, which were purchafcd with beads. It ap-
peared as if theCe people were on tlie watch to prevent any of the natives
up Cook's river from vifitlng tlie (hip. — The next day was employed in Tiiurfa»y 19
wooding and watering, clearing the hold, and brewing fpruce beer.
Ot> the loth they had light winds and plcafant weather. — In the '''<•*/ »•
morning they fighted the anchor uiul moored (hip, when all hands were
employed in wooding and waterinp. The net was alfo hauled into the
mouth of the river for l^ilmon, but without fucccfs.
On the day following the fame wcatlier and occupations continued.-— Saiurday n
About three o'clock in the afternoon five canoes came down the river,
and the people in them called out Asi/^r, Niota, as foon as they got
along fide the fhip. Five otter-skins were purchafed of thefe favages,
but they would take nothing except broad bar-iron ; two feet of wliich
were paid for each skin.
It appeared as if they were at war with tlie Ruffians and Kodiak
hunters, each of them being armed with a couple of daggers.— They
carneftly entreated Captain Douglas to !;o higher up the river ; and gave
him to underftand that it was from the r. port of Ins guns, which he
ordered to be fired morning and evening, that they k;iew ot his arrival.
They alfo informed him that they had got a confidcrablc quantity of
Natunichiicka,orfea-otter skins, but were afraid to bruig them down, on-
account of the KufTians.
On
■■■. • 1-'..H* I.I
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119
Klp<|j
^^9
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310
1788.
Jl'NR.
SuiiUay 11
MoiitJay 13
TuefJay 14
VOYAGES TO THE,
On the niorningof the 22d it blewa frefh gale, which raifed fo great
a furf ill fhorc, that it was impoffible to get either wood or water to the
fliip. — All the casks being full on the beach, it was thought proper to
leave four men, with the fecond officer, on fhore all night, to guard
them. About midnight the wind fliifted from South Weft to Eaft, and
brought fair weather along with it.
On the 23d, the weather was cloudy, with light winds from the South-
ward and Eaftward. They now got the water on board, and coiled the
, cables below. The long-boat alio having received fome damage, flie was
hauled upon the beach, and the carpenters and caulkers employed in re-
pairing her ; — they were likcwifc fet to work to prepare a couple of mafts
and yards for her, as it was intended to difpatch her up tlie river, as
high as Point Pofleffion, on the information of the natives.
The long-boat being finifhed, at four in the morning of the 24th, flic
was launched, and at half part ten was difpatched, with the turn of the
tide, well manned and armed, on her intended expedition under the
command of the chief officer. The inftru£lions given to him by Cap-
tain Douglas were to the following purport: —
** He was ordered to proceed up as high as Point PolTeffion ; to look
into moft of the fmall bays or low lands in fearch of inhabitants, and to
barter his iron or beads for fea-otter skins, black foxes skins and falmon.
If he met with any Ruffians, he was inftrufted to treat them with civi-
lity, but at the fame time to be upon his guard, and not to fufFer either
them or the natives to enter into his boat. — In cafe of bad weather, or
if by any unforefeen accident he fliould be detained four or five days,
Captain Douglas mentioned his defign, at the end of tliat time, to
follow him, with the (hip, up the river, to Point Pofleffion ; and that
2 he
i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 311
He fliould fire guns to give him notice of his approach. The officer, 1788.
however, was ordered to do his utmoft to return to the ftiip at the end ^'""**
of five days.
The carpenter and caulker being ordered on fhore to procure fbme
fpars for oars, which were very much wanted, they were under the ne-
ceffity of tracing the banks of the river to a confiderable diftance before
they could find any that would anfwer their purpofe. When thefe peo-
ple returned on board they declared, that as the long-boat turned the
point, they heard the difcharge of eleven great guns. Though Cap-
tain Douglas was, in fome degree, alarmtd when he firft received this
intelligence; yet as hi- liad bet n informed by a Ruiltan who went on
board the Iphigenia at Point Bede, that none of h's countrymen were {o
high up the river ; ami as the long boat, if (he had been attacked, would
have returned, the wind being fair to come back to the fliip, it was
concluded, as it afterwards turned out, that thefe great guns were
nothing more than mufquets, which the people had fired at fome ducks,
and whofe report was conveyed by the wind, which blew right to the
place where the carpenters were at work.
About three o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th, two canoes came wcdnefdavis
down the river, and brought a fea-otter cut through the middle, and other-
wife mangled. It appeared as if thefe natives thought that the flefli was
wanted, and not the (kin ; but no f itisfaiflory explanation could be obtained,
as they did not underltaiid any words that were addrefled to them ; and in-
deed gave no caufe for fuppoling th,\t they had ever traded with any Eu-
ropean people. They had not a Tingle bead of any kind in their pofleflion ;
and the few which were now giv.ii t'em, feemed to attra<fl that kind
of admiration which is awakened by objeds that have been never,
or at leaft feldom feen before. It was conjcdlured that they were in-
land
„J»!» .
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■' i
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i
31a
17S8.
VOYAGES TO THE
l.ind natives, who live up the country in the winter, and had defcendcd
ji'Nc. fome river which empties itfelf into Smoky Bay, as that was the quarter
from whence they appeared to come. As it blew frefh, and there was a
Inrge IwcU occafioned by the tide, they left the Ihip, and went in towards
the fliore.
Timrfday i« The Weather on the 26th was moderate and pleafant, and about nine
in the morning two canoes came from the Southward, in one of which
was the Ruffian who had paid the Iphigenia a vifit from Point Bedc. —
He brought a prefent of fome falmon, which was returned by a fmall
parcel of tobacco. At feven in the afternoon twelve double canoes
came along-fide from the Southward ; the people in them were Kodiak
hunters, but they had neither Ikins nor filh ; — though they promifed
to bring fome of the latter in the morning.
rmbya7 At ouc in the momiug of the 27th, they faw the long-boat dropping
down with the tide : and at two came along-fide the Iphigenia, having
obtained nothing but one very indifferent fea-otter {kin, and about two
dozen of fplit falmon. The officer, Mr. Adamfon, reported, that as
high up the river as 60° 4a' North, he met with Ruffians and Kodiak
hunters, who followed him from village to village, and had got entire pof-
feffion of the river. The boat being returned, at fix o'clock the ihip was
unmoored ; and on the turn of the tide, they weighed anchor and drop-
ped down the river. At noon the obferved latitude was y/ 58' North.
About three in the afternoon, the flood-tide fetting in, they dropped
aiKhor juft below Anchor Point, in feventeen fathoms of water.— The
extremities of the Weftern ihore bore from North Weft by North, to
Weft by South ; Cape Douglas bearing Weft ; Mount Saint Auguftine
Weft North Weft, half North ; and Point Bede South South Eaft ; dif-
tanc
^' '.\
.^. ^'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
3»3
tant three or four leagues. At nine In the evening, with the turn of the 1788.
tide, they hove up, and made fail with alight breeze from the South-
ward and Weftward.
., ■ '.I
On the 28th at noon, Cape Elizabeth bore Eaft South Eaft, and the Saturday »i
Eafternmoft of the Barren Iflands, Eaft South Eaft. At about five miles
off ftiore, there were no foundings with fixty fathoms of line. No ob-
fervation was made of the latitude, but the longitude was 207° 46' Eaft.
At eleven in the morning of the 29th, the Eafternmoft of the Bar- Sunday if
ren Iflands bore South South Er.ft, and Cape Elizabeth North North
Eaft, diftant about five leagues. The weather being hazy, there was
no opportunity of making an obfervation.
They ftood to the Southward and Eaftward till four in the morning of
t V-S 30th, with a moderate breeze from the Northward and Eaftward, Monday 30
accompanied by hazy weather and rain. At ten, the i(land of Saint
Hcrmogenes bore South Weft, diftant feven leagues.— No obfervation.
They had now light winds and calms, with a ftrong current fetting
them to the Southward and Weftward. At day-light, the extremities
of the main- bore from North Weft to North Eaft half North, at the
dlftance of about twelve leagues. At eight the body of the Barren
Iflands bore North Weft by Weft, diftant fourteen leagues.
As they had been difappointed of the fupply of falmon which
they expefted to have found in Cook's River, and there being no more
than three caflis of provifions remaining. Captain Douglas was under the
neceflity of reducing hi mfelf and officers, as well as the fcamcn, to a
very flaort allowatlce. The latitude was 59° 2' North.
Rr The
July.
Tiiefday i
aBS:,^^.-5.j
'•' f'"*\i^'''W?!'*^W *" '
k
3»4
1788.
JutT.
Yftdaetity 1
Thurfday 3
Friday 4
Saturday 5
VOYAGES TO THE
The wind continuing at North Eaft, and Eaft North Eaft, the very
courfe they fought to fteer, with an heavy fwell, the fhip laboured ex-
ceedingly, and made a very flow progrefs along the coaft. About fix in
the morning they flood in to, within a league of, the main land.—
At nine they unbent the main top-fail to repair, and bent the old one.
The main top-maft ftay-fail alfo fufFered confiderably from the fqually
weather, as they were under the neceflity of carrying a prefs of fail
to keep the fliip from being forced down by the current among the
Barren Iflands. The weather was thick and hazy, fo that no ob-
fervation could be made, nor had they any fight of land.
At five in the morning of the 3d, the wind fl)ifted to the South Eaft,
with moderate weather. At noon the extremities of the continent bore
from North North Weft, to Weft by South, diftaut ten leagues ; and
the obfcrved latitude was 59° 18' North.
At four in the morning of the 4th, they were about ten or twelve
leagues from the continent, and at neon the extremities of the land
bore from North Eaft, to South Weft half Weft, diftant ofFfhore four
leagues. The latitude was 59° 47' North. In the afternoon they had
frefli North Eafterly breezes, with fqualls and rain ; and in the evening
the extremities of the continent bore from North North Eaft half
Eaft, to Weft half South, at the diftance of ten or eleven leagues.
On the 5th, at noon, the extremities of the land bore from North half
Eaft, to Weft half South, diftant ten or eleven leagues The obferved
latitude was 59° 17' North. In the evening they had frcfli gales, with
heavy fqualls and rain.
On
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
On the 6th, at noon, the extremities of Montagu Ifland bore from
North by Eaft, to North by Weft. It was the intention of Captain
Douglas to keep without Montagu Ifland, from the number of funken
rocks which lie in the inner pafTage ; but finding it blow fo frefh,
and the wind being right in his teeth, he could not efFc£l his pur-
pofe.. — The latitude, from an obfervation, was 59" 36' North. They
had now fair weather, with frefli Eafterly breezes ; and at three in
the afternoon had foundings in twenty-five fathoms water. At fix, as
the tide was fetting againft them, they dropped the ftream anchor in
eight fathoms water, about three miles from the ihore of Montagu
Ifland, the extremities of which bore Eaft by South, half South, to North
half Eaft; and thofe of the continent bore from South Weft by South, to
North North Eaft. At half paft eight they weighed anchor, and turned
up that paflage.
3^S
1788.
JuLr.
Sundity 6
I
On the 7th, at one in the morning, dropped anchor about eight miles ^^o^'^'y i
to the Northward, in twenty-feven fathoms water, and fix miles from
the fliore. At nine they weighed again, and ftretched over to within a
mile of the continent, when there was no ground with thirty-fix fathoms
of line. — At noon they were furrounded with land, except towards the
paflage by which they entered, and which bore South. The obfervcd
latitude was 60° o' North. They had light breezes and fair weather as
they turned between Montagu Ifland and the main. — At fix in the even-
ing they came to with the kedge in thirteen fathoms water, about one
mile and an half from the Montagu Ifland fhore. At ten, they weighed
anchor, with a light breeze at Eaft South Eaft.
At eight in the rnorning of the following day, they were in the mid- Tuefd«y t
channel, between Montagu Ifland and the Green Iflands. At noon,
R r 2 the
if|'l
f-.. ^
..^■^IW;-'il[i1l)|jl'yi>.<iH<|iyt.'WJ^Mt*--V, .„|WiiyMWi4i'iX»'">ii4^^^
1^
t
,316
VOYAGES TO THE
1788.
Jui.v.
the extremes of the former bore from Weft half South, to North North
Eaft, the body of the latter South by Weft ; Cape Hnichinbroke Eaft
North Eaft ; and an ifland lying off Siiug Corner Cove, North by Eaft ;
diftant from Montagu Ifland two or three leagues. — Several guns were
now fired to acquaint the natives of our arrival.— The obfervcd latitude
was 60° 23' North. At four in the afternoon they ftood over to the Weft-
em ftiore, with light winds and clear pleafant weather. At eight in the
evening they wore and ftood in for the cove, with light airs and calms.
Wednefday 9 At Hoon, on the 9th, dropped the ftream anchor in five fathorhs water,
in Siuig Corner Cove. — The remainder of this day was employed in un-
bending the fails, hoifting out the boats, and other necefthry matters.
i
Thiirfday 10 On the loth, fix canoes of the Chenouways tribe cime alongfide, but
had no more than one fea-otter skin among them, which was purchafed,
with five or fix feal-skiiis for the rigging. Kcnnoonock informed Captain
Douglas that a fliip had been there, which had failed only ten days be-
fore with plenty of skins, and it appeared for Cook's river. This in-
telligence was confirmed by tlie party, who had been on ftiore for wood,
as they had feen, infcribed on a couple of trees, y. Etches., of the Prince
ofJVaUs, May ^th, 1788, end John Hutchim.
C H A P.
•^ f.o'»
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
3'7
1788.
JVLY.
CHAP. XXVIII.
The 1?W1QEVIA fails from Snug Corner Bay. — Tbey pafs Kaye's IJland. —
C/ofe in with Cape Suckling. — Slow Progrefs along the Coajl^ on Account rf
the Eajlerly Winds. — Send the Long-boat into Beering's Bay. which rclums
after having been driven out to Sea.-^'they fee IJlands of Ice. — Pur chafe a
great Number of Sea Otter Skins ^ i£c. of the Natives of Crofs Cafe. — A
fngular Example of the Pvwer of the Women among them. — Steer into Sea-
Otter Bay. — Pafs "Douglas IJland. — Enter a Bay called Port Mcares. —
• Pafs Rofe Point. — Obfervations on the Coajl. — Join the Felice at Nootka
Sound.
TILL the 14th, the people on board the Iphigenia were employed in Monday 14.
wooding, watering, and repairing the fails. During that interval
they had been vifited by feme canoes, which brought fifli, two river-
otter skins, and fame feal-skins. Of this party there was a man of the
Tauglekamute tribe, who informed Captain Douglas that they had
plenty of skins in his diftrift, and promifcd to return the following
morning to attend the (hip thither. At tliree o'clock in the afternoon, a
light breeze fpringing up from the Weft, they weighed, and turned out
of the cove. At ten in the evening Cape Hinchinbroke bore South Eaft
by South, half South, and the North end of Montagu Ifland, South half
Eaft ; diftant from the nearcft land four or five miles.
At
/n
"■ '"'■'f-JS^'S-.^".*"K^X""VX", •
i
i
I
if
V!
^7.
i*.
5.8
1788.
JULT.
Tucfday ij
Friday it
V O YAG ESTOTHE
At eight o'clock in the morning two canoes of the Chenouways tribe
came alongfide with fome skins, chiefly of the otter cubs, which Captain
Douglas told them they ought not to deftroy. At noon the weather
was calm and cloudy. Cape Hinchinbroke bearing South South Eaft:,
and the North Eaft end of Montagu Ifland bearing South, diflant three
or four leagues ; at eight in the evening the former of thefe places bore
South Eaft half South, and the latter South ; diftant from the main laud
four or five miles.
On the 1 8th at noon, tlie South end of Kaye's Ifland bore North
Eaft by Eaft half Eaft, diftant ten leagues. The extremities of the
continent bore from North North Eaft half Eaft, to Weft by North ;
and Montagu Ifland from Weft half North, to Weft South Weft. The
obferved latitude was 59** 52' North, and the longitude 214° 2' Eaft of
Greenwich. At one o'clock in the afternoon a breeze fprung up from
the Southward and Weftward, they therefore fet all their fail, and ftood
for the South end of Kaye's Ifland, as they knew from former experi-
ence that there was not any paflage for a fliip through Comptroller's
Bay.
Saturday 19 At fix in the morning they were clofe in with the Cape, when they
had ground from ten to twenty fathoms, over a clayey bottom. At noon
the wind was variable ; and Cape Suckling bore Weft by North, diftant
three or four leagues. Theobferved latitude was 59** 57'Northj and the
longitude a 15" 51' Eaft. They had a light breeze from the Sout'i-
ward and Eaftward till half paft three in the afternoon, when it took
them back, and blew from Eaft North Eaft in heavy fquallsi w'th rain.
Being clofe In with the low land off Cape Suckling, and the current fet-
ting them on Kaye's Ifland, they carried a prefs of fail to clear the South
end of it.
a At
V'
..«,-i^rt»*i^ «*«-v..*#^^...jfcii'^*ii
. ^*^^.:fiM't>'^**:r
.", ... 'yiXU- .--.^^^J^^i^l
'^"-^mnis^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At two in the morning the weather was moderate, with the wind at
the Eaft : At noon the body of Kaye's Ifland bore South Weft ; the ex-
tremities of the continent from Cape Suckling bearing Weft by South to
North Eai^ half Eaft, diftant eight leagues. The obfervcd latitude was
59° 57' North, and longitude 216° 14' Eaft. Light winds from the
Eaftward till fix in the afternoon, when the wind came round to the
North, and at eight ftiifted to the North Eaft.
3»9
1788.
July.
Sunday ae
At run>rire Kaye's Ifland bore Weft half North, diftant fourteen Monday i«
leagues. At eleven it blew frefti, with the land in fight ; and at noon
theobferved latitude was 59" 18' North, and the longitude 216° 23' Eaft.
At five in the afternoon they lay to under the main-fail, with ftrong
gales from the North Eaft*, and extreme cold.
On the morning of the 22d they faw the land, bearing North North Tuefdayi*
Eaft, diftant fifteen or fixteen leagues. At eight the gale abated, when
they ftood in for the land, as they did not wifli to pafs unfeen ou any
part of the coaft where there was a probability of inhabitants. At nooa
the weather became moderate, and the obferved latitude was 59" 5' North,
longitude 217° 10' Eaft. Frefti breezes fprung up from Eaft and Eaft by
North, with heavy rain, at fix in the afternoon ; and at eleven at night
it blew very hard, which obliged them to wear, and ftand to the South-
ward under courfes and double reefed main-top-fail.
In this manner, and with the fame variable weather, the Iphigenia Wedntiaayj*
proceeded to run parallel with the coaft, fometimes in fight of land, and
at other times at too great a diftance to fee it, or obftruded from the
view of it by an hazy atmofphere, till the 30th ; when, at four o'clock
in the morning, th«y faw land ; the extremities of which bore from North
Weft half North, to North Eaft, diftant fix or eight leagues. From fix
to
%
J:
I
320
1788.
JVLV.
VOYAGES TO THE
to tcti they had a light breeze from South South Weft, with which thej
flood into the bay. At noon it was calm and hazy, when they made but
an indilFerent obfcrvation, according to which their latitude was 59° 27'
North, longitude 219" 42' Eaft.
At half part twelve a light breeze fprung up from the Weftward, with
which they fteercd Xcrtli till fix in the evening, when it fell calm. Be-
ing within a few Ic.igues of the low l.uid, and on the Eaft fide of the bay,
they obl'crved the appearance of fmoke, and accordingly ftood towards
it ; but the wind and tide failing, the long-boat was at eight in the
evening lioifted out, in order to be fcnt to the head of the bay ; but the
appearance of bad weather occafioned her being detained till morning.
At nine they clued the top-fails up, and dropped the ftream-anchor in
twenty-eight fathoms water over hard ground. At midnight it was
perceived that the fhip had driven off the bank into deeper water; they
therefore gave her more cable, as it was bad anchoring-ground; but as
the wind and tide were both adverfe, they kept the anchor down till near
flack tide.
|;W
^tk '•
'M
\l.
Thuifday jt At three in the morning they hove up, and made fail toward the low
land, where they faw the fmoke. At four the weatiier being moderate
and clear, the long boat was difpatched, well manned and armed, under
the command of the chief officer, who was inftru^led to proceed towards
the bottom of the bay, and to make fuch examination of it, and obtain
fuch communication with any inhabitants he might find there, as would
tend to the procuring furs, provifions, &c. — At the entrance of this bay
they had fifteen, ten, and eleven fathoms water, over a rocky bot-
tom, but higher up no foundings could be obtained with fifty fathoms of
line. — At noon the latitude, by account, was 59° 41' North, longitude
219"* 47' Eaft. At three in the afternoon, having loft fight of the
long-
v.>t '
^^. t
---- »r-
:::s»a)er
NOR Til WEST COAST OF AMERICA. • jn
long-bont, and lliiding that (he was driven out to fca, tlicy wore ami 178J.
ran down towards her. At half part four they got figlit of her, and '"'^'
within an liour after came along-fide, when (he was found nuking
very bad weather, on account of the heavy fca : (he was immediately
hoifted in, and they made fail to the Southward and Eaftward.
AlfOlMf
At three in the morning of the ifl: of Auguft it blew ftrong from the '"'^> •
North Eaft, with heavy rain.^At noon, tlic latitude by account was
59° 10' North, longitude 219° 33' Eaft. At three in the afternoon the
weather moderated, when they tacked, and flood to the Northward and
Eaftward.
At fun-rife land was feen, the extremities of which bore North Eaft
half Eaft, to Weft, diftant fix or fevcn leagues. At noon the extremities
of the land bore from North Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant ten leagues.
The obfcrved latitude was 59° 16' North, and the longitude 220° 11' Eaft.
In the afternoon the clouds cleared up from over the land, which gave
them a fight of Mount Saint Elias, bearing North Weft by Weft, at the
diftance of about twenty leagues.— On feting fomcthing floating, which
they could not afcertain, as they had but little wind, the jolly-boat was
hoifted out to examine it, when it proved to be a dead bird, of a large fizc,
which Captain Douglas has not thought worthy of a defcription.
Sattird.iy a
In the morning the jolly-boat was difpatched, with orders to proceed
withui a mile of the ftiore, to examine if there was any appearance of
inhabitants ; and about noon flie returned, in company with a large ca-
noe, containing about thirty Indians. — They now dropped the beft bower
anchor ia twenty- fevcn fathoms water, and purchafed of the natives fe-
veral cotfacks or drefles of fea-otter skins, and a pair of gloves of the
fame. The extremities of land, when at anchor, bore from Weft North
S f Weft
Sunil.iy 5
u - .
!*
VOYAGES TO T II R
17S3. Weft, to E.ift ly South hah' South, ilift.uit four or five mllos. The ob-
IcrVLil latitude was 59' 10' North, and the longitude- 321° 2;' Eaft.
1
h f
TucfJciy s Early next morning the people returned, as th- f.iilors obfcrved,
with all their old cloatlis, a.> the cotl.icks uhiih th.y ixiw otVcrod for
I'iilc had been much worn : thcfc articles, however, w ere purchafed,
witli a quantity of falmon ; and at nine o'clock they wtiglud anchor and
proceeded along the fliore.— At noon the cxtreiuif""' of tlie land bore
from Wcfl by North to Eaft; the latitude by obfervation was ^(/ l' North,
longitude 221° 53' Eafl:. The place where the fliip lay was called Ti-
anna's Bay, in honour of that chief; ho was indeed very much dlfl'atis-
fied with the prefent climate, againft the cold of which he could not
protetfl hlmfelf, though he had as much cloathing on him as he could
well carry, — and was become very impatient to return to Owhyhtc.
if:-;, • .|.!il
^h 1, ^
V'cdiicfday < At fun-rife on the 6th it fell calm, and continued fo till eleven o'clock^
when a light breeze fprung up from the South Weft. — At noon Cape
?'air Weather bore North Eaft by North, and Crofs Cape South Eafl: by
Eaft, diflant from the neareft land four miles, running in for Crofs
Sound. — The latitude by account was 58° 10' North, and longitude
223° 15' Eafl:. — At three in the afternoon, being pretty high up the
Sound, and furrounded with what appeared to be iflands, as far as the
, eye could reach, the jolly-boat was hoirted out, and fent to difcover if
they were rocks or iflands of ice. — On her return, the account of the
oflicer was, that the iflaml he touched at was ice, as well as two or three
other fmaller on 's which he had paflld : concluding therefore that the
iflands on the outfidc of tlicni might be ice alio, they hauled clofc in
with the fliorc, and fent tlie boat a head to found.
At
•«te
^^ A:
*•-* »■- --o imvi
N O R T [I W r: ST COAST O 1' A M K R I C A.
Ar (1x in the cvciiinjT a canoe from tVofs C.ipc arnvnl aloMR-fulc tlic
(liip with one man, who canio on board quite naked. On bci-jjj palliitcil
witli a j.ickct, a pair of trowllrs, and an hat, lie appeared to be very
much dciij'litcd, and rciiudkd them to go in dole with the Ihip, when
he would lliew them the vilhige of whicli he was an inliabitaiit. Ho
accordingly went a-hcad in his canoj, and Kd them in anioiip, a pared
of rocks, with only tliree or four fathoms water, fo that Captain Dou-
j'Jas thouglit it nccclVary to take the pilotage of the vtllll upon himfelf;
and as it was dark and hazy, he found it a matter of fome difficulty to ex-
tricate himfelf from his very unpleafant fituation. Iloweve'% at half paik
ten at night, they came to in leveutecn fathoms water, over a roeky
bottom.
3=3
1783.
Very early In the morning five canoes came along-fide, when forty Thmrjiyi
fca-ottcr skins and fevcral cotfacks were purchafcd ; but the natives
here feemcd to underftand the value of their merchandize, and Captain
Douglas was obliged to give them the price they demanded. By eight
o'clock they had quitted the (hip : — But it is impollible to take leave
of them without mentioning a circumftance, whieh appears to be pecu-
liar to this tribe of Indians; among whom the women poflefs a predo-
minant influence, and acknowledged fuperiority over the other fex— of
this they gave a very ftriking example.
I
One of the chiefs having unintentionally interrupted a canoe, in
which was a woman, from coming clofe to the fliip, flic feized a
paddle, and ftruek him fo violently with it on the head, that he
was almoll difabkd from employing a fimilar inftrument, to ward olV
the blows wliich followed. In this manner they continued their
conteft, flie in ftriking, and he in defending himfelf, for near half an
hour ; when Captain Douglas, in order to put aa end to this fingular
Sf2 fray.
m
■^
3U
VOYAGES TO THE
m
■^ '(
i:'Wi
r
mm^'
i
1788
AvcusT.
fray, fired a mufquet over tluir heads, with concomitant figns of his
difplcafure, but without effc(fl. For the woman now ftepped into the
canoe of the man, who appeared to be in a ft?te of complete humiliation,
and pulling out a knife from fomc part of her drefs, (he fpoke for
fomc time, and then cut him acrofs the thigh. Though the blood
guilicd in ftrcams from the wound, (he was about to repeat her violence,
when Captain Douglas interfered in fuch a manner as to oblige this
vengeful dame to return to her own boat, and give the bleeding objefl
of her vengeance an opportunity to paddle away to the (hore. During
the whole of this engagement, if it may deferve that name, not one
of the men dared to interfere ; nay it appeared that they were in fuch
an entire (late of fubmirtion to female controul, that they could not
difpofe of a skin till the women had granted them the neceflTary
permiffion.
As thefe people had difpofed of all their skins, at noon Captain
Doughis made fail to the South Eaft, with the wind from the North
Weft. The cbfervcd latitude was 58° 02' North, and longitude
223° 26' Eaft. The weather was now moderate and fair, and they kept
a good look out at the maft-head for canoes or fmoke. At feven In
the evening a canoe was fecn approaching the (hip, which foon after
arrived with two large otters and one fmall one, juft killed, which were
purchafcd. The man on boaid the canoe gave them alfo to underftand
that more skins would be brought in the morning. They, therefore,
at eight o'clock, ran into twenty-three fathoms of water, and dropped
the befl bower; bottom, fandand (hells.
al
riirfays At fun-rife eight canoes came along-fide, when fifty-fix fea-otter
(kins were purchafed, fome of which were already formed into drefles. At
eleven o'clock they weighed anchor and made fail, running along the
(hore,
►»v"*" -
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
fliore, to the South Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from Weft
South Weft, to South Eaft by South, off (here about three or four miles.
At noon the obfervcd latitude was 57° ^S' North, longitude 224° 15'
Eaft. The weather continued moderate, with the wind from the North
Weft. At two in the afternoon they fliw a large bay, but being clofe
in with the land, and there being no appearance of inhabitants, they
tacked and ftooJ out. At ten it fell calm, and continued fo till noon
the next day, when it was fo hazy as to preclude making an accurate
obfervation. The bay they left the preceding evening bore North
North Eaft, off ftiore about two leagues. At three in the afternoon
a frefh breeze fprung up from the Weftward, and perceiving a bay
which bore Eaft off the (hip, they hauled in, to fee if there were any
inhabitants, but not difcovering the leaft figns of any, they hauled out
again, and fliortened fail for the night, not wilhing to run on, leaft
they (hould pafs any of the inhabited parts of the coaft, and of courfe
lofe the advantage of trading with the natives.
In the morning they made fiil, and got on deck all their bread
to dry. At noon Mount Edgecombe bore North Weft by Weft half
Weft ; the extremities of the land alfo bearing from North Weft half
Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, diftant off Ihore four miles. The obferved
latitude was 59° 19' North. From a medium of feveral .liftances of the
fun and moon, the longitude wii^; 224° 50' Enft of Greenwich. — At eight
in the evening, it blowing frefh, they reefed the top-fuls and ftiortencd
fail for the night, two fmall inaiuls b.-aring from the (hip South by
Eaft half Eaft. The extremities of the land bore from North Weft by
Weft half Weft, to South Eaft by Eaft, diftant from the (liorc five
leagues.
3^5
1788.
AUOUST.
Saturday 9
Sunday
t (
*4
Early
^ll
■ -.v-'.^i'^a
liil'iilf jf^ a
.
:ii^;
326
1788.
AunusT.
"Tucfilay I :
-,v' VOYAGES TO THE
Early In the morning of the nth they made lall for the land, and
at nocn it was diftant about ci^ht or nine leagues. Tiic obkrvcd lati-
tude was ^5" 21' North, and the longitude 2:5' 5;;' Eaft. A briik gale
fpringing up from the Northward and Weftward, at three o'cljck in the
afternoon they ran acrofs the mouth of a large biy which forms two
capes. The fouthern one was called Cape Adamfon, and is high, bluff
land, hinr-; in the latitude of 55" 28' Nordi, longitude 216" 21' E;ifl:.
Tlie otlicr to the North was named C.ipc Barnctt. It is low towards the
f>.a, but riles gradually within land to a confidiM-able height, and Is in the
latitude of 55° ,9' Nortli, longitude 226' 04' EalL
Having run a confiderable way up the bay, they entered the mouth of
a flrait p.'.flage, not more than half a mile acrofs from fliore to fliore,
ilccring North : I'y tiie number of whales wliich were blowing a long
way within the paflagc, it was evident that there was ]i!j!ity of water
for the fliip. At tight o'clock, iu the evening they dropped the beft
bower in feventeen fatlioms, with a fandy bottom, about half a miic .
from tlie Ihore. The fliip was now entirely land-locked, except at the '
entrance; and her prcfeat fituation was named Sea-otter Harbour, from
the great number of thol, animals which were in the water. They were
as tiiick as a ilock of ducks ; and the man at the maft-hcad taking them
for rocks, and calling out accordingly, occafioncd a confiderable impedi-
ment in the courfc of the (hip.
Early in the morning of the 12th, the jolly-boat was difpatchcd to
found, a-.ul the long-boat to look out for a watering place. At nine the
latter returned without having made the exptcflcd difcovcry. A very
plentiful, as well as convenient run of water, was, however, foon after
found by Captain Douglas on the oppofite Ihore. lie alfo faw many
2 places
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
places where there had been fires, but no other traces of hihabitants.—
In pulli'ig up the bay he chfcovcred a pafl'ige out to fea, and that it
was an Ifland where the fliip l.iy : he is alio clearly of opinion that the land
whicli formed theftraits to the Northward inuil confift of idands. — All
hands were now employed in cutting wood, getting in water, or over-
hauling tlie rigging. Captain Douglas, tlicrefore, took this opportunity
of taking out the jolly-boat to explore the head of the fliraits ; when,
after pulling three or four hours, he faw two arms, one ftrctching to-
wards the North, and the other about Eaft South Enft. By the number
of wliaies which he faw blowuig in thefe different branches, he con-
cluded there mufl be paflages out to fca through both of them. He landed
at feveral places, and faw fpots where fire's had been made, as well as
hoards for canoes ; but no other figns whatever of inhabitants. At feven
in the evening he returned on board, and gave orders to get under
way. At eiglit tluy fleered tlnough the mouth of tlie ftraits ; Cape
Barnett b.aring South Weft by Weft half Weft, and Cape Adamfou-
South by Weft half Weft.
3^7
1788.
AUCUiT.
%
They had light winds from the Northward till nine in the morning, w-dr.cfjajix'
when it frcfhcned up. At noon the former Cape bore North Weft by
Weft, and the latter North Weft. The appearance of a large bay bore
North by Weft half Weft ; a fmall ifland, about two miles in circum-
ftroncc, South Soutli Eaft, diftant feven or eight miks. It was now
named Douglas Ifland ; and tlitre are two or three fmall, low and rocky
iflands lying oft' its North and South ends. It is very high, and covered
with verdure, aiid may be lien at the diftance of fixteen or feventeen
ka^^uos. It lies ten leagues from r';-; main land, in the latitude of 54° 58'
Norrh, and longitude 226'' 43' Eaft. Between this ifland and tlie main
there is another of leflor extent, which is rocky, barren, and alnioft
level with 'Jic water. Between thcfc two iflands they lleercd their courle
bjr.
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i
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S28
178S.
Ave us r.
VOYAGES TO THE
by compafs, Eafl: Soutli Eaft, but could get no foundings with fiftj
fathoms of Ihic. At three in the afternoon they had n ftcady breeze from
the Weftward, with clear weather, when they pafled Douglas Idand ;
but as they were fteering in for a bay which bore North Eaft by North,
tliere came on a very thick fog. At half part four, they were vifited by
two canoes, wlio appeared to have come out of the bay for which the
Ipliigenia was fteering. Twenty-fix fea-otter ikins made in drefles, and
Ibme birds, were now purchafed of their vifitors, who were fond of
iron and beads, and were fatisfied with any quantity that was offered to
them.
■Tluiifaav 14 At one In the morning it blew a ftiiTgale, with thick and foggy wea-
ther ; and they flood off South South Weft till four, when they hove
to. At nine the fog diminiflied, and tliey made fail in fliore. At ten
tliey got fight of Douglas Ifland, Weft by North half North. At noon
the main land extended from Eaft by North, to North Weft by Nortli,
diftant four leagues off" ftiore. The obferved latitude was now 54° 43'
North, and the longitude, as reduced from the laft lunar obfcrvatlons,
227° 37' Eaft. They continued fteering in for the bay which was feen
tlie preceding evening, and at two in the afternoon they got within a
fmali ifland that lies a quarter of a mile from the main land. Here it
fell calm ; and a chief, with two large canoes, each containing between
thirty and forty people, came along-fidc, finging a general chorus of no
unpleafing effe£t. As the tide was adverle, the fliip was driving down
very faft towards the ifland which was under her lee. The chief was
therefore defired to lay hold of a rope, and tow the fliip higher up the
the bay, which was immediately done ; the natives in the canoes con-
tinuing their fong as they proceeded. At three they dropped anchor in
j;wenty-thrce fathoms of water, with a bottom of fand an i fliells.
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
The Weftcrn point of land which forms the bay, bore Eaft South
Eaft, and the Eaftern point, Eaft North Eaft ; fo that a (hip lying there
is only expofed to four points of the compafs ; — that is, between Eaft
South Eaft and Eaft Noi th Eaft : (he will be land-locked every other
way about a mile from the Weftern (hore. — It was now named Port
Mearcs. The latitude of the (hip at anchor was, by feveral obfervations,
54" 51' North, and longitude, according to the refult of feveral diftancPT
of the fuu and moon, 227° 54' Eaft of Greenwich.
3*9
1788.
AVCU<T.
<
r/
V
la Port Meares there are two large arms or branches of the fea ; the
one turns North North Eaft, and the otlier about North North Weft,
which Captain Douglas fuppofes to have a communication with Sea
Otter Sound. During this and the two following days, they purchafed
feveral fea-otter skins or nickces, as the natives called them. They
obtained upwards of fixty cotfacks from this tribe, which Captain Doug-
las reprefents as the moft liberal, unfufpicious and honeft Indians he
had ever known.
I'liilay 15
Satiiriiuy li
They had now light winds from the Wcftward, with very pleafant Sunday ly
weather. In the evening of the 17th the natives of tlie Northern or
North North Eaftern branch of the fea, made a large fire to give notice
of their approach ; and at one in the morning they came along-fide, Monday i»
finging in their ufual manner as they approached the (hip. — Of thefe
people they purchafed between fifty and fixty skins made into drefles,
and the b;.ft they had yet feen.
On the 20th having invited three of the chiefs to dinner, they made Wcdnefdaya*
Captain Douglas underftand that they had difpofed of all their nickees ;
but that if he would return with plenty of beads and iron, tliey would
be prepared with a frefh quantity fufficient for his demands. They
T t then
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'i* V
l;lc-
330
VOYAGES TO THE
1788. then took him on deck, and pointing out to fea, made figns that the
nickees came from thence. Though there was no land to be feen, as the
coaft took an Eaftcrly dire£tion from Port Mearcs, at three in the after-
noon thty weighed and made fail, fteering out to fea South Eaft, with
a frefh breeze from the Weftward. Alter running fix leagues, they faw
land, bearing from Eaft South Eaft, to South Weft, diftant about
twelve leagues. — At nine it came on thick and hazy weather, when they
hove the fliip to, with her head to the Northward and \Veftward.—
During the night tliey had foundings from fixty to eighty fathoms^
with a fiinJy bottom.
Thurfdayii At eight in the morning of the 21ft, it cleared up on the oppofite
Ihore, fo tliat they had a fight of the land which forms Port Mearcs,
bearing North North Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues. They then
wore and made fail to the South Eaft. At noon they were clofe in with
the land, which extended Eaft by North half North, to Weft by South.
The obferved latitude was 54" 06' North, and the longitude 228° 04'
Eaft. They now run along the ftiore, with a fteady breeze from the
Weftward, towards a bay to which the natives had pointed. At two
they faw a thick fmoke at the bottom of it, when they run into eleven
and nine fathoms of water. — At half paft two a thick fog coming on,
nnd land feen from the maft-head, trending due North, it was determined
to difcovcr if there was any paflage, or if the land that was feen joined
the main. At a quarter before three o'clock, as no canoes came ofF,
they fet a prefs of fail, and fteered for the bluff high Ir'nd that bore
North. At five it cleared up, fo that they had a fight of both fides, as
well as of a fandy fpit, level with the water, which ran to the North-
ward, as far as the eye could reach from the maft-head. At {even
they had a ftifFgaie, and fiiw the eud of the low fpit of fand. At eight
they hauled round the point, when itvvas difcovered that the land did
not
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 331
not join the main, but formed a large iniind, which took a Southerly 1788.
, - , Auautr.
direflion.— After rounding the fandy level, they came to regular lound-
•ngs of ten, eight and feven fathoms of water, about three or four
miles from the ifland, the extremes of which bore from North by Weft,
to South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft.
At fix in the morning of the 23d, feeing no appearance of inhabi- Satuiasr>j
tants, they weighed anchor and made fail, ftanding to the South Eaft,
having land on both fides. The fandy point that was pafled on the pre-
ceding evening, was named Point Rofc. It lics in the latitude of 54° 18'
North, and in the longitude of 228° 39' Eaft. — It was now difcovercd
that this was a large ftrait, and an ifland of great extent, where the an-
chorage is good, and which, to all appearance, affords feveral harbours
on the Northern and Eaftern fides. On the former there is a certainty
of meeting with inhabitants ; and, in all probability, with abundance
of furs. The centre of the ifland lies in th€ latitude of 53° 58' North,
and in the longitude of 228" 54' Eaft.
At noon they had light winds and calms, with clear weather, the ex-
tremes of the ifland bearing from North North Weft, to South half
Eaft, and thofe of the continent from Eaft by South, to North Nortli
Eaft ; diftance of the coaft nine leagues, and from the ifland about eight
or nine leagues. The latitude, by olifervation was ^t^° 55' North, and
the longitude 229" 30' Eaft. — The variation, per medium of fix azimuths,
17° 43' Eaft; per amplitude, 17° 59'.
At nine in the morning of the 24th, the longitude, from the medium Sunday m
of feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 230° 16' Eaft of Green-
wich.— From nine till noon the weather was calm and clear, when the
bearings of the land were as follows : — The extremities of the continent
T t 2 bore
MAWMtlMMi
IMAGE EVALUATION
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33i
17S8.
AVUVST.
' VOYAGES TO THE ;*
bore North Weft by North, half North, to Eaft by South ; a fmall bluff
iflaml, lying off tlie main, bearing North by Weft, diftant ten leagues,
and the extremities of Charlotte Ifland from Weft to South.
I fliall here take the opportunity of obferving, that (hips which arrive
early on the coaft.when they muft cxpeft to meet with heavy gales of wind,
will find it their advantage to make the South end of this ifland, and to
enter the ftmits in the latitude of 52°, and the longitude of 229° 30',
when they will find fhelter either in the ifland or on the continent. — It
may be alfo added, that as fliips which are returning from the North at
a late period of the fcafon, are liable to be blown off the coaft, it would
be advifable for them to make Douglas Ifland, and enter the ftraits in the
latitude of 54° 30', and longitude 226' 30', when they will find good an-
chorage, as well as inhabitants, on the North fide of the ifland. — On
the continent they will alfo have the advantage of Port Meares and Sea
Otter Sound, befides feveral other bays which have not yet been ex-
plored, between 56 and 54 degrees of North latitude.
Monday 15 On the moriiing of the 25th they had loft fight of land, and, as the
change of the moon was approaching, when a gale of wind might be ex-
pected, which, perhaps, would have obliged them to run immediately
to the Sandwich Iflands for a fupply of provifions, it was refblvedto fteer
at once for Nootka Sound, without encountering the land again, iu order
to add to their ftock of furs.
Ik
Tuciaayac On the 26th, at half paft nine, their longitude, from a medium of
feveral diftances of the fun and moon, was 132° 38' Eaft of Greenwich,
with a ftrong gale, fteering Eaft North Eaft ; and at noon their latitude
was, by obfervation, 49° 42' North. ■' -
% -At
w
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At eight ill the evening they were clofc in with the entrance of
Nootka Sound, when it fell calm, and the tide fctting out, they drop- Aucuit.
ped the heft bower anchor in twenty-three fathoms water.
333
1788.
I M
At feven on the morning of the 28th, a light breeze fpringing up Thurfd.y»j
from the Weftward, they got under way, and ftood in for the Sound ;
and before noon the Iphigenia, with her crew in good health and fpirits,
joined the Felice in Friendly Cove,
CHAP.
i'
I i
33*
1788.
VOYAGES TO THE
CHAP. XXIX.
f," '
• October.
Monday 17
7'/&(? Iphigenia, in Company with the NonrH West America Schooner*
/eaves Nootka Sound. — Scarcity of Provijions on board. — Arrive off Mowee^
one of the Sandwich IJlands. — Supplied with Plenty of Provijions.— *tianna
receives his Brother on board: their affectionate Meeting. — Arrive off
Owhyhee. — A Vifttfrom the King^ and his "Joy at feeing Ttanna. — Anchor in
Karakakooa Bay, — Great Abundance of Provijions fent on board.— Ceremony
cf receiving Captain Douglas on Shore. — I'he King and ^een of Owhyhee
Jleep on board the Iphigenia. — 7he North West AytURic a parts from^
her Cable. — Tianna goes on Shore to get PermiJJion for the King's Divers to
afjiji in recovering the Cable. — The Ceremony previous to their entering the
iVater. — T'he Length of Time they remain under it. — The Iphigenia parts
from her Cable. — Sufpedl the Natives of this ASl of Treachery. — The Divers
again employed, and recover the Cable, &c. — Tianna leaves the Ship, with
all his Treafures, to fettle in Owhyhee. — An Account of the late Change in
the Government of that IJkind, &c.
THE Iphigenia remained in Friendly Cove after the departure of the
Felice, till the 27th of 0£lober, the interval of which was em-
ployed in fitting the North Weft America for fea, and making fuch other
preparations as their approaching voyage rendered neceflary.— At noon
on that day they quitted Nootka Sound, and proceeded on their way to
the Sandwich Iflands ; — and, as nothing particular happened in the
courfe of it, but a fcarcity of provifions, which occafioned a very fliort
allowance,
-fl.'K«^jffWHi<|nn«L,il-ai
''"""'w-iW
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
335
allowance, we fliall at once fuppofe the Iphigetiia and her confort to be 1788.
in fight of Owhyhce ; which welcome objedl prefentcd itfcif to the crews °«<^"""^'''
of both veflels at tiay-light in the morning of the 6th of December: — ^aiunia) s
the Weft end of that ifland then bore South South Weft, three quarters
Weft, diftant nine or ten leagues ; and the Ifland of Mowee bore Weft,
diftant feven leagues. — The wind having drawn round to Soutli South
Weft, occafioned them to run over to the South Eaft fide of Mowee.
rJ
Tiainia, whofe impatience fince the Iphigenia left Samboingan, had
fometimes broke forth into the violence of anger, and might have been
expefted, on approaching his native country, to have aflumed the ftiape of
the moft violent joy, became grave and thoughtful ; and any occafional
0
eagernefs which animated his looks and anions, when they drew nigh to
the Sandwich Iflands, rather implied the anxiety of expe£lation, than fen-
fations of pleafure. — He knew enough of the fituation of his country to
caufe a very powerful conteft between hope and fear in his bofom ; and
thofe apprehenfions of danger which weighed notliing with him when
failing over diftant (eas, feemed, in fome degree, to opprefs his fpirits,
when he was alwit to encounter it. — It was certainly a period of the
moft painful fufpenfe, as he was uncertain whether the treafurcs he pof-
fefll'd wo«ld be employed to elevate him into confequence, or to pur-
chafc his fafety ; — whether they would be allowed to enrich himfelf, or
feizcd, to form the wealth of others. — He had left his ifland in a ftate
of peace, but he hiid every reafon to fear that he (hould find it in a ftate
of war; or at leaft under the government of an ufurped power, which he
could not for a moment fuppole would be friendly to him. — Such appeared
to be the ftate of Tianna's mind on arriving among his native iflands.
We had no fooner appeared ofF Mowee than a great number of canoes
came off with hogs, yams and plantains. — On this fide of the ifland
a tlxere
; '» 1
.'1 .
v«l
33^
1788.
UZCEMBER.
VOYAGES TO THE
there is a large town, the refidence of Tlteerce, the fovercign of Mowce,
who was at this time on a vifit to Taheo, king of Atooi, in whofc
abfence the government was left to the care of Harwallence, brother-in-
law to Tianna, of whofe arrival he was no fooner informed, than he
ordered a prcfent of hogs for the fhip ; but before it arrived Tianna had
obfervcd his brother on (hore, and having drefled himfclf in his beft ap-
parel, dcfired that meflage a miglit be fent to invite him on board. — On
his arrival they met as brothers fhould do after a long feparation ; the
whole of their condu£l to each other was affedionate ; — they melted into
tears, and almoft drew the fame from the eyes of thofe wlio beheld them.
After their firft emotions had fubfided, the chief requefted Captain Dou-
glas to remain with him for a few days, and engaged to fupply him with
any quantity of provifions that miglit be demanded; but as he faw
no place where they could come to an anchor in fafety, the furf at the
■fame time beating with great violence, and an heavy fwell with the wind
blowing in fhorc, Captain Douglas was under the neceliity of declinin^j
the invitation.
;'t,W: ,
Tianna being extremely anxious to vifit Owhyhee, they wore, aivd
^ood at noon for the North Weft point of that ifland.
simdaj 7 At noon on the 7th, a canoe from Owhyhee came along-fide, with
a friend oF Tianna, who had heard in the courfc of the night, frona
Mowce, of his arrival. — ^In the afternoon feveral relations of Abinui
came on board, and in the evening Tianna difpatched a friend to Tome-
homy-haw, to give him notice of their approach.
Mondays On the following morning a great number of canoes came off from
Toe-yah-yah Bay, with hogs, fowls, and taro-root. — The winds were
light and variable, and the latitude, by obfervation, 20° 11' North. At
fun-
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
337
fuii-fct the extremes of Owhyhcc bore from Nortli to South by North, 17*^8.
DBC£M»!«.
diltancc off" (hore three leasjwcs.
At two III the morning there was Iicavy rain, with thunder and light- TticfJ«y>
ning. At day-li<;ht they liad loll fight of tlie North Weft America ; but
at nine liuv her clofe in fliorc. At eleven they hove to till the fchooiier
came up. At noon they were only four miles ofVfliore, and the obfervcd
latitude was 19° 4+' North. In the afternoon feveral of Tianna's re-
lations came on board ; and fo liberal was he difpofed to be to them all,
that if he had not been checked in his gcnerofity, the whole of his trea-
fure would have been at once divided among them. The King alfo fcnt a
prefent to Captain Douglas, accompanied with a meflage that lie would
pay him a vifit as foon as he had com^ to an anchor in the bay.
The current having fet them a confiderable way to the Northward, at Wcdn.fjayn
day-light tliey made fail for the bay ; and at noon the latitude, by obfer-
v.ition, was 19° 35' North. Tianna now difpatchcd one of the chiefs
who had come to welcome his arrival, to invite the King to come on
board ; and at two in the afternoon he made his appearance in a large
double canoe, attended by twelve others of the f.mic fizc, beautifully
adorned with feathers. As foon as he came on board. Captain Douglas
fdlutcd him with fevcn guns. After crying overTianna for a confiderable
time, the King prefented Captain Douglas with a moft beautiful fan,
and two long- feathered cloaks. The light winds and number of canoes
hanging on the fhip, prevented her from making any way through the
water : fo that it b:*came a matter of neccffity to requeft his Majefty to
taboo the fliip, witii which he readily complied, defiring permiflion, at
the fame time, for ])imfelf and feveral of the chiefs to fleep on board.
I 'I
il
Uu
They
Hi
i
k >
! i
33«
1788.
DiCIMItR.
ThurOlay 11
VOYAGES TO THE
They continued working into the bay till two o'clock in the morning;
when they dropped anchor in twenty-one fiithoms water, at the diflancc
of tlirec quarters of a mile from fliore. The Kin; proftficd the warmcfl:
friend(hip for the Captain of the Iphigcnia, — declared that the ifland
(hould belong to him while he remained there,— and, to prove the fin-
cerity of iiis regard, exchanged names with him. Hut however flattering
all thefe attentions miglit be. Captain Douglas thought it not impofllble
but that fome attempt might be made to fcize the fchooner, as (he ap-
peared to be fmall, and her crew few in number ; he therefore, in the
evening, carried tlie King on board the North Weft America, when
by f^iluting him with all her gun^and other explanations concerning the
poflibility of defending her, when attacked, by retiring to clofc quarters,,
the difficulty of getting poflclllon of her muft have appeared very evident
to the royal vifitor. When, however, Tianna explained to him the
manner and time in which flie was built, l:e intreated that a Cfirpenter
might be left at Ovvhyhce to aflift Tianna in forming fuch another ; and,,
indeed, fo carntft were the requcfts of them l)oth on this fubjeiSt, that it
was necefihry to m.ike fomething of a conditional prQmife, at leaft,.
for ihcir prefent fatisfaction.
Friday 1 J On the motning of the 12th the Captains of both fliips accompanied
the King and Tianna in the jolly-boat, on fliore. They were met oti
the beach by three pricfts, who chaunted a kind of fong, and prefentcd a
fmall hog and cocoa-nut ; the former of which was given by the King to
Captain Douglas. — This ceremony continued about ten minutes, after
which they were introduced into a large houfc fprcad with mats, and a
kind of party-coloured cloth, when, after the repetition of thefe cere-
monies, and the pricft had chaunted a third fong, two baked hogs were
brought in, of wliich the Engliflii gentlemen alone eat, and then pro-
ceeded
.liiiiiiiiw^^
VORTII WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
33<^
cecded to take a walk, in wliich tlicy were not ir.tcrruptcJ by a fingle 17S0.
perfon, as all tlie natives were lul^occdov. tlic occallon, and, of courfe, con- ^c^"****
fined to their houfcs.
Nothing was fecn in this little cxcurdon worth a repetition, but a clump
of cocoa nut trees, whole trunks were pierced by the balls of the Refo-
lution and the Diicovery. It being extremely hot, they returned and
dined with the King, on frelh fifli and potatoes.— The other chiefs fat at
fomc dirtancc during dinner, and then made their meal on roaAed dogs,
taro-rocts and potatoes ; as at tliis feafon of the year even the chiefs are
forbidden to eat hogs and fowls, from the King down to the loweft Eree.
In the evening the King and Qiiecn returned with Captain Douglas on
board the Iphigenia, as they confidcred it to h^ a luxury of no common
defcriptioa to flcep in his cot.
This day was chiefly employed in killing and falting down the hogs; s.itiiri!ay ij
but as the coppers on board for heating the w.iter were very fmall, tlicy
made but flow pregrefs in this neceflary occupation.
At three in the morning of the I4ih, the fchooner came under the -"'A^ '♦
ftorn of the Jphigcnia, when Captain Funtcr gave the very dlfagrccablo
information that (lie had parted hor cable.— After having moored her to
the Iphigenia, Tianna was re Tvftcd to go on (hore, and entreat tlic King
to fend off his divers, in ord- -ecover the anchor ; and at tight o'clock
he came off witli tlitni. — The fchooner having lain in thirty fathoms
water, and not having loft more than three or four fithoms of cable, a
very great depth muft have remained for the natives to have explored, in
order to fucceed in the bufinefs about which they were to be employed.
The following ceremony, however, was to be performed, belore they
entered upon their fearch: — When their canoes were arrived at the place
U u a where
I.
Ill
(1
I ,
A
340
1788.
Pecfmbir.
VOYAGES TO THE
wlicrc the anchor hiy, ft;vcral cal.ibaflics wltli taro-root were prcfcntcil by
a chief to i')\ men, who employed about half an hour at the rcpaft ;
when one of t!)c chiefs who acconipanial thcni gave three loud yells,
;.ucl waved a piece of white cloth over his head ; at this (ignal the fix
men plunged into the" fea, and difappcarcd in a moment. — Four of the
fix remained beneath the water about five minutes; the fifth continued
about a minute longer, and when he came up was almoft exhaufted ;
tv/o men immediately feizcd and dragged him to the boat : — In the
mean time there was no appearance of tlie fixth, who was confidered as
loft, wlien he was flen near the furface of the water, but finking down
again ; three of the divers, however, plunged inftantly after him, and
brouglit him up, but in a fenfelefs ftatc, and with ftreams of blood if-
luing from his mouth and noftrils. — It was fome time before he was fuffici-
ently recovered to inform t'aem that he had not only got hold of the cable,
but had cleared it. This man, according to the account of Captain Funtcr of
the North Weft America, was beneath the water the fpace of feven mi-
nutes and an half. It appeared, however, that the anchor was in
too great a depth of water to alTbrd any profpctH: of its being recovered.—
Thefe people were amply rewarded for their exertions.
Captain Douglas having given orders to right the anchor, thought it
prudent to move further in towards the village of Kowrowa, and drop-
ped anchor in twenty fithoms water, about a quarter of a mile from
the ftiore; — but, fitiding it to be bad ground, a warp was run out, and
the (hip hauled into fourteen fiithoms water.
4-!
\i\
Im/,
MuiiJayij At day-light the jolly-boat was fent to found, when, on its being
dil'covered that the ground was by no means clear of the coral rock, on
the Kowrowa fide, they weighed anchor, and warped the (hip oppofite
Sandy Bay. on the Karakakooa fide, where they dropped the bower an-
chor in twenty fathoms water, with a bottom of grey fand ; the two points
which
NORTH WF.ST COAST OF AMERICA.
54«
whkh fuim the liiy, Ixmiiip, Wtd: half Nortli, to Soutli one qunrtcr ,-83.
Wd>, ilabnt ofi' (hoi c about 011c mile. Ihc cvciihig was employed iu °"-'*'""*'
killing and lalting pruviliuiis.
Tiann.i had now determined to remain at Owliyhcc, as Tome-homy-
h.iw h.'.d };iveii lilin a lai}',e tra.l of land in that Itlaiul, where he would
live in a l\ ite of honour and llcurity, which the reigning diftra>flions and
jealoufies of the government of Atooi would have denied him ; bcfides, it
was n matter of no grcnt difficulty to get his wife and the rctl of his fa-
mily from thtnce to his new fcttlemcnt.
The weather !ia\ ing been very fqually to the Weftward for fomc days I'lW.iy 19
palT, Captain Douglas was apprehenfive of a gale of wind blowing from
the Tea ; he was therefore determined to g.t under way, and go in fearch
of fonie place, among the otiicr idands, where the vcflelj mir^lit lie in
fafety. — la the morning, therefore, they unmoored the Ihip, but in
heaving the fmall bower they found the cable had parted. — On the very
inftant this difcovcry wa,i made, the King and his chiefs fecrctly quitted
the (hip and paddled haflily to the fhore. — As the clinch was cut, to all
appearance by dtfign, there was little doubt on whom to fix the mif-
chlef : Tianna, tliereforc, was fent to inform the King of the circum-
ftance, as well as the fufplcions conneiflcd with it, and tliat if the an-
chor was not found, his town Hiould be blov/n about his ears. — This
threat had the dcfued cffedl, for in a flioit time Tianna returned
with a party of divers, who, after a repetition of the ceremonies
already defcribed, leap-d into the water and difappeared. — The long-
eft period which any of them remained under water was four minutes,
but no anchor was to be fcen. — They were fent down a fccond time
with the lame fuccefs. — At length the buoy-rope was hooked with
a fmall grapnel, fo tiiat the divers had now no cxcufe whatever as to
the
^'1
'I
VI
'H
awirtiWwir.iMiri" —
343
1788.
DiciMmit.
S.i!ii:''l.iy 10
VOYAGES TO THE
the uncertainty where the anchor Iny ; accordingly two of them went
down with a three and half inch rope, and bent it in twenty f.itlioma,
as well a5 if they had been on fliorc, (o tljat this important objcia was
fortunately recovered ; tlic lofj of which would have been very diftri (ling,
ns they had only one bower left, and an heavy (heet-anchor, but without
any cable of fuffitient ftrcngth tobiing the latter to the bows.
In t!ie morning they had light breezes from the land, and as they
were heaving up tlic anchor, in order to get an offing, an heavy fquail
rpprariufT to bo brewing from the W'eftward, the King, accon"ipanicd
by Tiauna and feveral chiefs, c.\mc on board ; but the former, when he
found that we (hot out from tlie bay, thouglit it time to depart, and ac-
torduigly left the Ihip, attcuilcd by upwards of an hundred canoes.
r?
' (
k
As fijon as they Iiad got an offing they liovc to, and the fquall clear*
iiig away, Tianna's treafures were ordered to bj brought upon dick.—
Thty confillicd of faws of dltkreut kinds, gimbkt5, hatchets, adzes,
kniv-s and choppers, cloth of various fabrics, carpets of feveral colours,
a confiderablc quantity of Clilna-ware, and ten bars of iron. — Thcfc
riches, for fuch they may be truly denominated to the owner of them,
were not to be trufted in one bottom; and as there yet remained about
the Ihip feveral double canoes tliat carried each from forty to fifty men,
his trunk was handed into one of them, t!'.e bars of iron into another,
and i'o o!i, till he had no lefs than five canoes chnrg.d with his trealure,
wliich was fecurcly lafned to them. — Tianna, after cntreatinjT Captain
Douglas again and again to bring his family from Atooi to Owhyhec,
took a mort afteflionate leave of him and t!ic whole crew, who had fo
long been his conftant companions and friends ; nor were the latter with-
out their emotions of regard, when they fuw the chief, whole amiable
^ilpofition and fuperior qualities liad won their fmcere eftccm through
2 the
1
I I A
i'
ilrtWri II iiWWH'to
NORTH WnST COAST OF AMERICA.
343
the coiiiiecllon of a long and dangerous voynjre, about to be fcparated 1788.
fioni tlkcm.— As TLu^na left the Hiip, accompanied In' a numerous '^'^'•t"*'*'
train of Wn rcl.itiouj in their refpcflivc laiiois, Captain Douglas ordered
a (alutc of fevcn guns, as a mark of cftccm to that rcfpcdablc chief, and
immediately made l.iil to the North \\\ft.
Tliniitfh f.VLiv.l European vcflcls have been off the ifland, yet as the
IphliTLiua alone Ij.uI anchored in Karakakooi-bay, and Captain Douglas
and his pioplc were tlic only European 1 who have ventured on fliore at
Owhyhcc tincc tlie unfortunate death of Captain Cook, the changes
which have taken place in the ifland (luce that lamentable event, as far as
tluy cnmc to the knowledge of Captain Douglas, may beconlidercd, pcr-
liap;!, as a matter of fufficient curiofity to juftify a curfory m'.ntion of
them.
Many of the chiefs whom Captain King thought proper to particiv-
larize, are no more ; and among them the friendly Kaireekeca and the
treacherous Koah : — but Eappo, the faitiiful Eappo, who may be remem-
bered as having brought the bones of the illuftrious navigator to Captaiti
Clcrkc, and who had married Tianna's lifter, was now ou board the
Iphigcnii, where he had lived ever fincc her arrival off the ifland. As to
t!vc r.viliitioii iii tlic government, t!ic molt accurate account, in the
opinion of Captain Douglas, was as follows :—
About three years after the dcatli of Captain Cook, MaihaMaiha, — for
that was the name which Tome-homy-haw then bore, — had occafion to
fend a mell'age to the King Tcrreeoboo, v/lio, for fome reafon which did
not appear, fliouglit proper to put the mertengcr to death. — But Maiha
Miiiha bc!'!^ a very powerful chief, and poil'elTing a very bold and adive
dilpofit'.un, contrived to unite the greater part of thofe of his own
rank
344
1788.
Dkcembir.
VOYAGESTOTHE
f.'.nk to join with Iiim in forwarding his revenge. He, therefore, went
immediately to the King, who became fo irritated by his provoking ac-
cufations, as to refent the infiilt by a blow. On this a£t, which we nuift
fiippofc to have been confidcred as in the higheft degree criminal in the
King hlmfelf, the Chiefs of the ifland fat in jiidgnent during three
days, when it was determined by their councils, tiiat I'erreeoboo Htould
fiifler death. A cup of poifon, therefore, was inftantly prepared, and
being given to Maiha Maiha, was prefented by him to the King, who
refufed it twice ; when being informed that another and more diiho-
uoutable mode of punifliment was at hand, and ohfcrvlng tliat an execu-
tioner flood by his fide, in a (late of preparation to knock out his
brains, the wretched Ibvereign, in an agony of defpair, drank otf the
deadly draught, and in a few momi-nts fell from his feat and expired.
The fame power which doomed Terrccoboo to death, deprived his
fon of the royal fuccelfion, and Mailia Mniha was proclaimed King, by
the name of Tome-homy-haw. — Such was the moft probable hiftory of
this revolution; — though the King himfclf took no common pains to
ptrfuade Captain Douglas that Terrceoboo was poifoned for having
encouraged the natives to the murder of Captain Cook.
Tomc-homy-haw, however, appeared to be rather an obje£V of fear
than love among his fubjuclis. — As far as could be obferved, he was of a
tyrannic diijofition, and poflefled few of thofo qualities which gain
a foverelgn the firfl of all titles, — tl;e Father of his people. Captain
Douglas mentions a circumftancc which proves at leaft, tljat if a blow
from the hand or a weapon was confidered at Owhyhee as a capital
offence even in the King, the fame violence from the foot was, by no
means, confidered as partaking of the fame criminal nature. — Some
vf .the chiefs propofing, on feeing Captain Douglas fhave himfelf,
that
<»><irx>i,u>i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 345
that the King Ihould undergo the fame operation, his Majefty thought 1788.
proper to kick them all, oue after the other, not only without fear, but
without mercy. '
On the 2ift the fhips made fail for Mowee, with the wind from the ^"""^"y **
South. At noon the obferved latitude was 20° 36' North, diftant from
Mowee four miles. A frelh gale fpringing up from the Southward, they
ran up to the head of the bay, and had regular foundings from thirteen to
five fathoms of water over coral-rock, with fome fpots of fand, where
they might hav« anchored with fafety to their cables, if the wind had
not blown fo frefli on ftiore. They, therefore, hauled out of the bay,
and fleered for tfie Weft point of the ifland. At fix in the evening,
they dropped the fmall bower anchor in five fathoms and an half of
water, over land and fhells, and moored with the flream anchor, half
a cable each way.
Xx
CH APi
. I
34C
PiCIMaiK.
V O YAG £ S TO THE
II
i1 V
> ?:'
Tuffday 30
CHAP. XXX.
Jtrrive off iVoahoo.'—Receptm given by Tlteeree, Ki»j of tt^ to Captain Dou-
glas.—The Jinchon of both Vejfels hove up by the Natives. — Negotiation
•with the King for the Refloration of them. — S^uit IVoahoo^ and proceed to
Aiooi. — Anchor in JVymoa Bay. — faheoy the Sovereign^ retires up the
Country J from an Apprehenfion of Tiama^s jirrival. -—He returns,
and his Alarms fubfide. — Vifits the Iphigenia. — The Dearnefs of Pro-
vi/ions. — vthe fuppofedCaufes of it, — Captain Douglas cautioned of fecret
Defigns againfi him.— -His Condudl thereon. — Ship and Rigging repaired.
-^Proceed towards Oneeheow.'— Forced by contrary Gales to IVbahoo.—*
Arrive in 'Tiroway Bay in Owhyhee. — Friendly ConduSl of l^ianna
and the King. — Alliance entered into by the Princes of the neighbouring
I/JandSf in Favour of the Son of Terreeoboo.-^'the AJJiftance given by
Captain Douglas to the Sovereign of OwhyheCy and Tianna. — Defcription of
Tiroway B ay. ■^ Large ^antity of Provljions fent by Order of Tome homy-
haw, — Sltiit Owhyhee. — Difpute among the Seamen at If^ymoa Bay. — Proceed
to Oneeheowfor Tatns. — ^«/V the Sandwich Jflandsy to return to the North
IVefl Coajl of America)
NO material occurrence took place from the 2xft, but an attempt of
the natives to cut the cable while the Iphigenia was at anchor otFthe
Ifland of Mowce, for which one of them received a very fevere correc-
tion.—They had continued, for feveral days, to beat about in fearch
of a good anchoring place ; and on the 30th, they worked round tlie
South Eaft end of the Ifland of Woahoo, and at eight in the evening were
2 clofe
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
clofein with a large bay.— The followhig day at noon, on finding that
the current fct them down towards a (hoal, which the fea broke over
with great force, they made fail and puflied out from theland, when they
had five, four, and three and an half fathoms of water, about four
miles from the fhore. At four in the afternoon they tacked and flood
in, to try for anchorage ; but the wind blowing too frefli on land, and
a number of flioals and banks being under their lee, they were obliged
to put about.
Having flood off till four in the morning, the wind drew round to
the Eaftward, and brought clear, moderate weather. They were now in-
formed by the natives that Titeeree, the King, lived on the Eaft-fide of
the bay. — The jolly-boat was, therefore, fent to found oppofite a fandy
bay, while the Iphigenia flood off under an eafy fail. At noon the
jolly-boat made figiial for anchorage, when they accordingly run in and
dropped the ftream anchor in eleven fathoms of water, over fand and
fliells, at the diftance of about three miles from a village, and two from
an high bluff land on the Eaftern fide of the bay. The two extreme
points which form this large bay, bearing from Weft half North, to
Eaft South Eaft. It is called by the natives Witetee, and the only
good anchorage appears to be on the Eaftern fide : while the trade-wind
blows, a veffclmay ride in fafety ; but if the wind varies to the South
Eaft or Weft, it then becomes dangerous, on account of the number of
ftioals and banks which it contains.
After they had dropped anchor. Captain Douglas difpatched a pre-
fent to the King, accompanied with an invitation to fee him on board,
and at four in the afternoon he paid a vifit to the Iphigenia. The fo-
vereign of Woahoo was faluted with the difcharge of five guns on his
arrival on board, and a fecond prcfcnt of adzes, choppers and knives was
X X a offered
347
1788.
DeC(MII(II.
Wediieldiiyj 1
Januarv.
Tluiilday I
i
f 1
H
(1
34? VOYAGES TO THE
1789. offered to him; when he readily promifed that the taboo fliould be
Janua»t. (jjjgjj off the hogs, as far as it related to them, and that thyr ftiould
be plentifully fupplied from the iflands of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi
and Woahoo.
I-riday 1
In the morning the King repeated his vifit, bringing a prefent of hogs,
taro-root and potatoes, with a turtle, and fome fifli of the trout kind. —
Early in the afternoon he went on fliore, and foon after Captain Douglas
followed him in the jolly-boat. He was received very cordially by Titeeree,
who took him round the village, (hewed him feveral plantations, and
conducted him to fome large ponds, which appeared to be full of filh. —
He mentioned alfo fome others where he had a quantity of turtle, and
promif^ to bring one on board the next day.
< rV
Saturday 3 The next morning Titeeree vifited the fhip, with a prefent of a turtle
and fome hogs. — About ten o'clock a double canoe, fchooner rigged,
came round the Eaft point of the bay. The natives were deceived as
well as the people in the (hip ; for they all imagined it to be the North
Weft America, which had not been fecn for fome days, till the canoe came
within a fhort diftance. She had got jib, main-fail and fore-fail as well
as thofe of the fchooner.
v.\
On the loth they were joined by Captain Funtcr, who had been beat-
ing off the Weft point of the ifland for feveral days paft, without being
able to join the Iphigenia.
Nothing of material occurrence took place during the time which
the veflels remained at Woahoo, except the lofs of both their anchors ;
which Titeeree, who, in every other refpecfl, behaved with the greatcft
kiudnefs, contrived, though it blew a gale of wind, to heave up and
get
■VORTHWESTCOASTOFAMERICA, ^^^
get a-fliore, with their cables. As this was a lofs of the utmoft con- 1789.
fequence, and, fituated as they were, would have prevented their future J*'-'^^*"^^-
progrefs, it became abfolutcly neceflary to be very fcrious iu their en-
deavours to recover them. The King did not attempt to hldi the theft ;
and the people whom Captain Douglas fent to him to demand the
reftoration of the anchors and cables, faw them lying in his houf>. —
Indeed, they feem to have been taken with no other view than to com-
pel Captain Douglas to leave fome of his armourers at \Vo;i!u)o, as the
condition of their being reftored. However, the anchors, &c. were re-
gained, on prefenting the King with a piftol, a mufqutt, and a fmalt
quantity of ammunition ; accompanied alfo with I'ome very neceffiry
menaces, tliat if he did not rcftore the articles he had taken, his town
fhould be laid in afhes.
After having laid in fuch a ftock of provifions as it was in their power Sundayjj
to purchafe, and having filled fome calks with water, at half paft five
in the afternoon of the 2jth, the two Vcfiels got under way, and flood
out of the bay. At noon of the following d iy, the obferved latitude
was 21° 23' North ; and the extremities of Wo.ihoo bore from Eaft by
South, to North Weft by North, diftant from fliore about four miles. .
, ■ ■ (
fA
I"
At two in the afternoon of the 26t!i, t!iey law the ifland of Atooi, . Monday a»
bearing Weft by North half Nottli ; and in tlie courfc of the night had
aftrong current fctting againft them, with t'ne wind from the Weftward.
At noon of the 29th, they dropped anchor in Wymoa Bay, in twenty- """ J'''
three fathoms of water, over a muddy bottom: — Tlie two extreme points
which form the bay, bearing from Eaft South E;ift, to Weft North
Weft. The Morai on ftiorc, bore North Eaft half North.
Oa
^^^1
1789.
jAKVARr.
VOYAGES TO THE
On the arrival of the Iphigenia and the North Weft America ofFthe
ifland, Taheo, the King, and all the chiefs, had gone to a confidcrable
diftance up the country, dreading the efFedls of Tianna's anger, who,
they had been informed, was on board one of the veflels, and had tabooed
every thing on (hore : but as it was underftood that the chief, whofe
vengeance was fo much dreaded, had been left at Owhyhee, meflisngers
were immediately fent after Taheo, who in confequence of this inf jr-
ination, returned in about three days to Wymoa ; and on his arri\''al,
fcveral canoes were fent off" with hogs, potatoes and yams, for which a
moft exorbitant price was demanded. A couple of hatchets, or eighteen
inches of bar iron, was expefted even for an hog but of a middle fue.
This exorbitant difpofition arofe principally from the fuggeftions of a
boy, whofe name was Samuel Hitchcock, who had run away from Cap-
tain Colnett, and was become a great favourite with Taheo himfelf.— i
Indeed, fo great was ftis influence with the King, that one of the na-
tives having ftolen from him a fmall piece of cloth which he wore rvvjnd
his middle, Taheo ordered the culprit to be purfued to the mountaint.,
whither he had fled, and when the wretched creature was taken, both
his eyes were torn from their fockets, a pahoowas then driven through
his heart, and his flelh ftripped from the bones, as a bait for fharks.
But though Taheo returned to Wymoa, he was by no means without
apprehenfions as to his fafety ; nor would he accept of Captain Douglas's
invitation to come on board the Iphigenia ; feigning, as an cxcufe, that
he had been ill ufed by the crew of a (hip fome time before. This alarm,
indeed, in a fliort time fubflded, and he paid his occafional vifits to the
ihip, and a friendly communication, at leaft to all appearance, took
place between the natives and their European vifitors.
At
■W
. NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At the fame time, it was hinted to Captain Douglas to be continually
on his guard againft the defigns of the King, and of Ablnui his minifter;
and he was alfo informed of a poifonous root well known to the inha-
bitants of the Sandwich Ifl.inds, which when ground to powtkr, might
be eafily fcattcred about the fliip, or thrown upon their cloaths, without
being obfcrved, and whofe power is of fuch a deadly nature, that if the
fmalleft quantity of it (hould be inhaled by the mouth or the noftrils,
the confequcnce is immediate death. Captain Douglas, therefore, though
he did not very much fufped any murderous intention in Tahco, or his
people, thought it a prudent precaution, at all events, to make known
his intention, if any attempt was made to poifon any of the provifions
fold to them, that he would not leave a native alive whom he fliould
find within his reach.
35^
1789.
Januahv.
But though tlie quantity of hogs and roots which they could obtain
at Atooi, were by no means equal to their expeftations, or fometimes-
even to their Immediate neceflities, opportunities were taken of doing,
condderable fervice, by making fuch repairs in the fails, cordage, and
other articles, which were eflentially neceflliry to the condition of both-
the veffels. It was therefore determined to proceed to Oneeheow ; and^
as Namltahaw, with fix of his relations, and four women, exprefled their
wiflies to accompany Tlanna's wife and child to Owhyhee, he took them-
all on board, in the expedatlon that they would be of very great fervice
to him in procuring fuch provifions as he wanted, in the ifland he was -
proceeding to vifit.
,',,rt
M
At two in the afternoon of Wednefday, the i8th of February, both Wednefdayit
veffels got under way; and at fun-fetting, Wymoa Bay boreNortli Eaft. .
At noon of the following day, the South Weft end of Oneeheow bore Thurfdayi?
Weft, at the diftaQce of one mile. But ftrong gales coming on from
thef
i
.i
I' .1-
35^
VOYAGES TO THE
1789. the Nortli Weft, aiul finding that they drove a confiderablc way to the
FlBKI'AKV,
Soutlnvard and Eaftward of Oneeheow and Atooi, and there being every
appcnrnncc that the wind would continue to the Wcftward, Captain
Douglas di tcrmined to run over toWoahoo, in order to get a frefli fupply
ofprovifions, as tluy had killed their laft hog. Accordingly on Saturday
Sjiiiiu'.ay»i the 2 1 ft, at four in the afternoon, a fredi gale fpringlng up from North
North VVcfl:, they bore away for VV'oahoo. At noon on the following
day, they part the Weftern point of Witetee Bay, the foundings being
from fourteen to three fathoms of water, and diftant five or fix miles
from the fliore. Captain Douglas obferves that this flioal runs out
further than any he had encountered among thefe ifl;inds, and that it
lies in the latitude of 21° 22' North, and the longitude of 202' i j' Eaft
of Greenwich.
Sunday i:
i'l
(.'J:
n
M
/
Monday ij I" the moniing of the 23d, they came to their former anchoring
ground ; and at nine, Titecree came on board, and fome of the paflbn-
gcrs having informed him of the price paid for provifions at Atooi, he
was difpofed to Imitate the exorbitant demands of the neighbouring
ifland; and no inconfiderable quantity of powder and (hot, for thofe were
now become the favourite articles, was demanded for a fingle hog ; fo
that very peremptory methods wert obliged to be employed in order to
procure the neceflary fupplics.
TiiefJay 24
A fre(h breeze fpringlng up from the Weftward about noon, on the
24th, Captain Douglas embraced the favourable occafion to get over
to Owhyhee, where he hoped to find greater plenty, and more rea-
fonable demands.
i
At noon on the 2d of March, Owhyhee bore from North half Weft,
to South Eaft by South, diftant from tha fhore about two leagues ; and
very
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
353
1789.
Mariii.
MonJay i
very ftiortly after Tianna came on board from a part uf the idand
called Toee-Hye, — and when he had indulged himfelf for fome time in
the oppreflfive joy of yearning nature at the light of his wife and child,
he condu£ted the (hip into a bay called by the natives Tiroway ;
and at four in the afternoon, they anchored in fixteen fathoms of water,
over a fine fand, the two extreme points bearing from South South
Eaft half Eaft, diflant from the fhore about a mile and an half. In
the evening, by the provident care of Tianna, they received a conft-i
denible quantity of refreflimcnts. Early in the morning the jolly-boat
was fent to found the bay, when good ground was found all acrofs
it, from fourteen to twenty-two fathoms of water, over a fine brown Tuefday j
fand.
The King having been on a fiftiing party, he did not arrive till four in
the afternoon ; when he came, accompanied by his Queen and daughter,
in two difpatch boats, having quitted his heavy canoes and attendants.
He appeared to be overjoyed at their return, — expreffed his hopes that
Tianna had paid them all proper attention in his abfence, and alTured them
that his power in the ifland, and all he himfelf poflefled in it, was at
their command. Indeed, the quantity of provifions with which he
caufed them to be furniflied, and his anxious endeavours to forward the
wi(hes of Captain Douglas in every thing, proved, beyond a doubt, the
fincerity of his profeffions.
The next day at an early hour. Tome-homy -liaw, Tianna, and feveral
other chiefs, came on board the Ipliigenia, and foon after the whole com-
pany were difmifTed by the King, except Tianna ; and having thrown a
feathered cloak over Captain Douglas, the chief, in the name of the fove-
reign and himfelf, began to unfold the fecrets of their political fituatlon.
Yy He
Wednffdjy ^
SSA-
Vv<.
1 1
1789.
Makch.
V O Y AGES TO THE
He flated that Taheo, king of Atooi, and Titeeree, the fovereign of
Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi, and Woahoo, had entered into a compadt with
Terrecmoweerce, the furviving fon of Terreeoboo, who lived on the
wcather-fide of the ifland, to difpoiTefs Totne-homy-haw of his rank
and power, for no otlier reafon but becaufe he had permitted Tianna to
fix his fettlcment at Owhyhee: — That Taheo had been furnifhed by
the Captains Portlock, Dixon, &c. with a quantity of arrns and am-
munition, on an exprefs condition that he would not af? ord any fup-
plies whatever to Captain Meares and his aflbciates ;— f< r the truth
of which information, he appealed to the reception whi( h that gen-
tleman had lately found on ptitting into the ifland of ^tooi, where
he could not obtain any refreftiment of any kind : — And Tianna, with
tears in his eyes, and the mofl affedlingexprefTions, declared his apprehen-
fions of the diilrefs which Captain Meares and his crew muft have fuf-
fered from the want of provifions before he reached Macao, if he fhould
have been able, by any means, to have compleated his voyage to China.
The fpeech, which was of confiderable length, concluded with entreat-
ing Captain Douglas to leave two of his men behind him, till his
return from America, together with a fwivel gun, his own fowling-
piece, and whatever other arms and ammunition could be fpared by
him.
The preparations which Captain Douglas had feen at the other iflands,
and the great demand he had experienced for powder, fliot and muf-
quets, induced him to give fome credit to the fcheme which Tianna
had jufl: mentioned : he, therefore, complied with that part of the requeft
which related to the fire-arms, and immediately ordered the carpenter
on fhore, to form a flage on one of the largeft double canoes, to receive
the fwivel. "■■ . ,;..
•' . - ■ : ,. •• ' " • In
>%
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 355
In the afternoon of the following day, the carpenter having finiflied 1789.
the canoe, {he was brought along- fide the Iphigenia, when the gun TimrMryi
was mounted ; but it was with great difficulty that the King could pre-
vail on his people to keep their paddles in their hands while he difcharged
the piece.
At fix in the morning, the wind being from the Southward and Eaft- ^'''^*f *
ward, a fignal was made for the King to come on board, when they got
under way, fleering for the bay of Toee-Hye. The King was accompa- "
nied by his Queen, Tianna and other principal chiefs, while thofc of an
inferior rank attended the fhip in a fleet of thirty canoes. Tiroway-
Bay, which they now quitted, is fuperior in many refpe£ls to that of
Karakakooa, the ground being extremely good, with not a fpot of
coral rock in any part of it : befides, velTcls may lie at fuch a diftance
from the fhore, that if the wind blows, they can clear the land with
fafety. The latitude of the (hip at anchor was 19° 4' North. At half
pad five in the afternoon, the beft bower anchor was dropped in ten
fathoms of water, oppofite the village of Toee-Hye, the two extreme
points of this large bay bearing from South Weft by South, to North
Weft by North, diftant from the fhore three miles.
W
I
ftl
In the evening, the King and his company went on fliore ; and on the SatinJayj
following morning fent off a prefent of thirty hogs, a quantity of fait,
cocoa-nuts, potatoes, and taro. As the trade-wind was now blowing
frefli, Captain Douglas requefted that he might, if poflible, be favoured
with immediate fupplies, as he was in hafte to fail for America.-—
Tome-homy-haw, therefore, difpatched meffengers up the country, with
orders for every one wlio had an hog to bring it immediately to the vil-
lage, on pain of death : and at ten the next morning, he himfelf came sumUys
oiFwith a prefent of fifty hogs, fome of which weighed fifteen ftone. —
Y V 2 In
.'1 ■;
fj«
)
1 t
;(^-i
1789.
Maach.
Munday 9
Thiirrday 11
Friday ij
Saturday 14
VOYAGES TO THE
In the courfe of the day other ueceflary articles were fent on board ;
and amongd other things were twelve geefe. It may be a matter of
curiofity to mention that, at the fame time, a boat came into the bay
with a cock and hen turkey. Thcfe animals were going round to breed
at the village of Wipeco. The hen, we were told, had already fat
twice, in different parts of the ifland, and reared her broods to the num-
ber of twenty ; fa that in a few years there will be a great abundance of
tliat fpecies of fowl in thefe iflands.
In the evening C.iptaiii Douglas, after prefenting fome fire-arms and
ammunition tu tlic King and Tianna, took his leave of them ; and at
midnight they gut under wny. Their latitude at noon, on the next
day, was 30" 2 1' North. They now proceeded to Woahoo, where having
got a conilderable quantity of wood, and made fome addition to the
flock of taro and fugar-cane, they continued their courfe to Atooi : and
in the evening of the 12th came to an anchor about two miles to the
Eaftward of the anchoring-ground. At day-light on the 13th, they
got the boats out, and towed the (hip into her former birth. Taheo
and the other principal chiefs were gone to Punna, and Abinui was the
only perfon of confequence remaining at Wymoa, who fent a prefent
of an hog on board, but did not think proper to accompany it.
In the morning, the long-boat was fent on fhore for water, when the
men on duty got to quarrelling with fo much violence, as to draw their
knives againft each other ; and when Mr. Viana attempted to part them^
a feaman, of the name of Jones, threatened to knock him down. As
fuch a difturbance, if not checked in time, might have been attended
with confequences that would prove fatal to the voyage. Captain Doug-
las ordered Jones to immediate punifliment ; to which, with the moft
horrid execrations, he refufed to fubmit, and run for the fore-top, in c\-
pedatioii
J*'V
NORTH WEST COAST OF AaIERICA. 3^7
pe£latioff o^ meeting with the blunderbufles which were generally kept 1789.
there primed and tondcd, in cal'c of an attack from the natives, but was
prevented from gaining his obje£l by Captain Douglas, who fired a piftol
over his head, and thrratened him with a fecond difcharge if he pro-
ceeded another ftep. But u, it was very evident that feveral of the
(hip's crew were difpofed to fupport him, he was ordered either to
deliver himfelf up to punifhment, or iuAantly to leave the (hip ; which
he did without the lead hefitation, and tranquiUity was immediately
reftored.
Having compleated their watering, at five in the afternoon they got
under way for Oneeheow, in order to obtain a fupply of yams. But
being prevented by adverfe winds, and a current running (Irong from
the Northward, to make Yam Bay, they were forced, lu nvoid being
driven to the leeward, to bear up for the other bay ; and in the afternoou
of the following day, they dropped anchor in thirteen fathoms of water ; hnit) 1}
the bearings of the two points being from South by Eaft, to North by
Ead ; the fmall ifland of Tahoora bore at the fame time. South South
Weft half Weft, diftant from the (hore one mile and an half. In the
evening. Captain Douglas being informed of adefign agitated by feveral
' of the feamen to go off with, the jolly-boat, gave orders to tlie officers
to keep a ftricH: watch ; neverthelefs, during the night, the quarter-
mafter and two of the failors had got on (hore in fome of the canoes
that were along-fide. They had formed a plan to get off with the boat,
and at the fame time to fct fire to the (hip ; but being prevented in
their diabolical enterprife, they had taken an opportunity toefcape to the
ifland. Two of them, however, by the adlive zeal of honeft Friday, a
native of Oneeheow, who has already been mentioned in thefe pages
with the efteem he fo well deferves, were (hortly brought back to the
fliip ; but the quarter-mafter, who was the ringleader ki the mtfchief,
•< J could
'*
/I
t,
ll "I'i Mill
358
1789.
March.
, ? V O Y AG E S T O T H E
could not be brought offot) account of the furf, and was therefore left
behind : for fuch was the fltuation of both veffels, being in want of many
neceflary articles, — the North Weft America having alfo loft her an-
chor,—that though, according to his inftru£lions, Captain Douglas
was to have proceeded to the Northward, he was under the neceflity
of difobeying them, and proceeding immediately to the Coaft of Ame-
rica, where he had every reafon to hope he ftiould meet with a (hip
from China.
The Iphigenia and the Schooner had now been near four months
among thefe iflands ; and it is to the honour of Captain Douglas, that he
condutSled himfelf with that prudent attention to circumftances, as to
have avoided any ferious difpute with the natives of any of them.
CHAP.
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
CHAP. XXXI.
359
1789.
Makch.
^4
V
*thty leave Oneebeow, and proceed on their Return to the North Wejl Coaji of
America. —Pafs Bird IJland. — Particular Circumjlance refpedling the Coni'
pafs. — The Arrival of the Iphigenia and the NoKraWzsT America^/
Nootka Sound. — The latter difpatched on a Trading f^oj/age, and the Rca/lns
of it. — The Arrival of a Spanijl) Ship. — The Conduct of the SpaniJJj Com-
mander.— Seizure of the Ipiiigenia, tic. — She is obliged to leave Nootka
Soundf and proceeds to the Northward. — Trade with the Natives of the
Coafl. — Anchor off a Village named Fort Pitt. — Defer ipt ion of BuccleugVs
Sound. — Anchor in Haines's Cove. — A War threatened between two tribes
of Natives.— -The Means employed to prevent it. — An Account of Mac
Intire's Bay. ^Examine Cox's Channel.— A Dejign formed by the Natives
to get Pojejfion of the Ship. — Difcovered to Captain Douglas by the ,'Vomen.
— Friendly ConduSl of a Chief named Blakow. — All the Bar-Iron ex-
pended.— Pafs Cox's Channel. — Trade with the Natives of Tatanee. —
^it the Coajl of America. — Return to the Sandwich IJlands. — Forlu-
nale Ffcape from a Defgn of the King and Chiefs of Owhyhee on
Captain Douglas and his People^ tSc. — Tou>:h at the different Iflands
for ProvifonSf &c. — Proceed on their Voyage to China. — Arrive off
MacaOf tic.
T T A V I N G got about a month*s (lore of yams, the two vcffels
ftft fail ; and having loft fight of the ifland of Oneeheow on the
i8th, they proceeded in company to the North Weft, with the wind Wedr.fdayis
from North North Eaft. At three the next morning, land was fsen
a-head ; and at four, being almoft clofe up with it, they hove to till
day-light.
Thi
19
^1
>^f
360
1789.
ArftiL.
V O YAG E S T O T H E
This ifland or rock, bears the form of a faddle, high at each end, and
low in the middle. To the South it is covered with verdure ; but
on the North, Weft and Eaft fides, it is a barren rock, perpendicu-
larly fteep, and did not appear to be acceffible but to the feathered
race, with which it abounds. It was therefore named Bird Ifland. It
lies in the latitude of 23° 07' North, and in the longitude of 198' 10'
Eaft, by a medium of feveral obferved diftances of the fun aAd moon.
T i
m
m
I'll
m
Nothing very material took place during the voyage of the Iphi-
genia and North Weft America back to Nootka Sound. They both
fufFered thofc inconvenicncies which may be fuppofed to arife from the
fcanty ftore of many articles ncceflary for the comfort and navigation of
a (hip. — It may be proper, however, to mention, that in the beginning of
April, for two or three days together, it became impoflible to fteer the fliip,
the compares flying about each way four or five points in a moment. —
Captain Douglas remarks, that he experienced the fame phaenomenon
laft year about the fame latitude. The latitude at this time was from
36° 19' to 26" 10' North, and the longitude from 208' 15' to 210° 13'.
The whole tranfaftions concerning the Iphigenia, after her arrival at
Nootka Sound, with the condud of the Spanifti commander, which have
formed a fubjeft of difpute between the Crowns of Great Britain and
Spain, are ftated at large in the Memorial prefented by me to the Houfe
of Commons ; — I muft therefore refer the reader to the Appendix of
this volume, where he will find the Memorial, with various other
papers, explanatory of the mercantile plans and operations of the
Afibciated Company for carrying on a Trade between China and the
North Weft Coaft of America.
The
1
[)i
B.S..,
■Jl
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 361
The Iphigenia being permitted by the Spanifli commodore to depart, 1789.
they quitted Friendly Cove, as is feen in the J^Iemorial, and continued wedncfday j
their courfe to the Northward, with the wind at South Eaft. — At fun-
fet on the 4th, the Southern extremity of Charlotte's Iflands bore Thurraay +
from Weft North Weft, to Weft by South, diftant two leagues.— At
noon the next day the weather was thick and foggy.— The latitude by V'^^'V s
account was 5*" 33' North ; longitude 228" 2/ Eaft.
n'l
In the morning of the 6th the fog cleared away, and there were a great
number of fea-otters playing round the (hip. — At eleven they faw a
fmall barren ifland.— At noon the latitude by account was 54" 7' North,
and the longitude 229° 9' Eaft. — At three in the afternoon, the current
having fet them to leeward, and out of fight of the ifland, and being
furrounded with a number of fmall iflets and rocks, they bore up to look
out for fotpe place of Ihelter before night. — At fi/e they palled between
a low ifland and the main land.— At ten it fell calm, and the current
iet them down to a fmall ifl.uid, and no foundings to be obtained with
eighty fathoms of line ; the boats were therefore hoifted out, and the fhip
towed cle^r of the ifland, into 26 fathoms water, when they dropped the
Aream anchor over a muddy ground.
Sltiirdav fi
f
!
the
At break of day it was low water, when a ledge of rocks was feen
above water, within lefs than a cable's length of the fhip : a breeze fpring-
iug up, they weighed anchor and worked out of the found. At eleven
the wind dying away, the ftream anchor was dropped in fifty- five fa-
thoms water, at the entrance of the found. At.noou a breeze fprungup
from the South Eaft, when they weighed and flood to the South Weft.
The latitude by observation was 54" 45' North, and the longitude 229° 15'
Eaft. .-. -> ,„ - . .
,;. . J. . Z 7/ • ' ■ U^oil Biaalv u! iki -The
Sunday |
i'l
;'
i
1789.
362 VOYAGESTOTHE
The weather was now become fair and moderate ; and the early part
of the afternoon, on observing a canoe paddling towards the fhip, they
(hortcned fail, and purchafed three cotfacks of the fca-otter's (kin.^The
natives made Captain Etouglas underftand that there were more nickees at
a village to which they pointed. — He therefore wore, and flood to the
I North Eaft, in company with the canoe ; and at fix dropped the ftream
anchor In thirty-five fathoms water, oppofite a village which ikunds upon
an high rock, and has the appearance of a fort. This place, which is in the
< latitude of 54° 58', longitude 229° 43' Eafl, Captain Douglas named Fort
Pitt. They bought feveral otter- fkins of the natives ; but in the morn.
Monday ( ing, there being no figus of any further traffic, they weighed anchor
and flood to the Weflward. — At noon the obferved latitude was 54" 46^
and the longitude 229° 12' Eaft^
In this targe found, which was now named Bucckugh^s Sound, there
are feveral arms, and branches, ibme of which take an Eaflerly direAioir,
and run as^ fiiras the eye could reach; one or two others took a Northern
ly direction, and, in the opinion of Captain Douglas, communicate
with Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound. — The two capes, which form
Buccleugh's Sound, were named Cape Farmer and Cape Murray.— The
former, which is the Southernmofl, lies in the latitude of 54° 35' North,
longitude 229" 16' Eafl ; and the latitude of the latter is 54° 43' North,
and its longitude 228° 10' Eafl. — A lowifland, covered with trees, about
three leagues ia cIrcumfeEeuce,. which they pafled the day before, and
lies ofifCape Farmer, was named Petries Ifland. — It is m the latitude of
54° 42', and in the longitude o£ 229° 20'.— >An high mountain on th<
Weft fide of the found, where they perceived the appearance of a village
with their glai&s, was called Mount Saint Lazaro. — It lies in the latitude
of 54" 52' North; longitude 2:8° 56' Eaft. At eleven at night they
made fail to clear a fmall rocky ifland that lies off Cape Murray.
At
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
At noon the next day the entrance of Port Meares bore Weft by North,
but having only the nine inch cable which was got from the Spaniards,
Captain Douglas did not think it prudent to bring up there, on account
of its expofure to the South Eaft winds ; but having, at this time a lead-
ing breeze, they fteered right up the found, palling feven or eight iflands
which lie in the middle of it. — In the afternoon the long-boat was ordered
out, and an officer fent to found and difcover fome place of Hielter.— -In
about three hours he returned, having found out a fine cove, about four
miles higher up the found ; and at feven in the evening they dropped
the bower anchor in fifteen fathoms water, over fund and fhells, about
half a mile from the larboard fhore, and at twice that diftance from the
ftarboard (hore.
3^3
1789.
Tucfday t
■ ii
Captain Douglas reprefents this harbour as by much the beft he had
feen on the coaft of America. — ^The entrance of it is not more than half
a mile from ihore to fhore, off which an ifland is fituated of about a mile
in circumference ; fo that a velTel may lay there in a ftate of fecurity
from all winds. — ^At the bottom of this cove, which is about two miles
from the entrance, there is a very fine beach, and in the middle of it
there is alfo a fmall ifland, round which the tide flows :— It was named
Haines*s Cove, and is in the latitude of 54° 57' North, and longitude
itt" 3' Eaft. -Mtn-. .;
Fiidiy ijf
•lil
At
Several fucceeding days were employed in purchafing furs, fifli, and
oil, and making fome neceflary repairs to the (hip and rigging : — Nor
did any thing material happen till the afternoon of the 17th, when the vvcdncfdayiji
chiefs of the two villages, on different fides of the cove, having had
fome difagreement, they prepared for war, and a very bloody conflid, to
all appearance, was prevented, by the interpofition of the women, which,
after a very loud and angry debate, that lafted upwards of an hour, pro-
Z z 2 duced
'' f
...■n-'L;
5*4
1789.
JVKf.
Friday 19
VOYAGES TO THE
duccd a reconciliation betweeen the hoftile parties.— Oife of the chiefs,
attended by his canoes, paddled round the Ipbigenia, and chaunted a fong
as an acknowledgment to Captain Douglas, that he had not taken part
in the difpute ; while the other party were received at the village of their
tribe, by the women and children, with the tuneAil acclan»ations of wel-
come or of triumph.
At eight o'clock, on the moniing of the 19th, a breeze fprioging up
from the South Wefl, they weighed anchor, and made fail out of the
cove. — At noon, the extremes of the land, from Cape Murray, which
forms Port Meares, bore North Eaft by Eaft, to an high bluff, which
was now named Cape Irving : — ^The latter lies in the latitude of 54" 49'
North, and the longitude 227° 4/ Eaft. — The two capes, bearing about
Eaft and Weft from each other. — ^The North Weft point of Charlotte's
Iflands alfo bore South by Weft half Weft, diftant twelve or fourteen
leagues.
The weather was moderate and cloudy, with the wind from the South
Weft. — At fun-fet, there being the appearance of an inlet, which bore
South South Weft, they ftood acrofs a deep bay, when they lisd irregu-
lar foundings, from twenty- fix to eleven fathoms water, at the diftince
of two leagues from the fliore ; — the wind dying away they dropped the
ftream-anchor, the two points which form tlie bay, hearing from Weft,
one quarter North, to North Eaft half Eaft, diftant from the Ihore four
miles. It was now named M' Intire's Bay, and lies in the latitude of
^3» 58' North, and longitude 228" 6' Eaft.
:l\
'amrday >o I" tHe morning of the 20th, the long-boat was difpatched to the
head of the bay, to difcover if there was any paifage up the inlet; —
and the account received on her return was, that toward the head of the
I' .i
■ — .'*^«-v^yil
i
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
bay a bar run acrofs, on which the long-boat got a-ground ; but that
within it there was the appearance of a large found. Several canoes
now came along-Hde the fliip, and having purchafed their ftock of furs.
Captain Douglas got under way to look into an inlet which he hac^
obferved the preceding year. — Al noon it was exceeding hazy, and no
obfervation was made. . , > .KiPfi v j p'^ j " ''' •
Early in the afternoon the long-boat -was fent, well manned and armed,
to examine the inlet and found for anchorage ; and foon after, twelve
canoes being feen making their way towards her, while feveral others
were coming off to the (hip. Captain Douglas made fail after the long-boat*
which had already made a fignal for anchorage. — At five o'clock they
dropped the bower anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, about four
miles from the fliore, and two from a fmall barren, rocky ifland, which
happened to prove the refidence of a chief, named Blakow-Coneehaw,
whom Captain. Douglas had feen on the coaft in his laft voyage. — He
came immediately on board, and welcomed the arrival of the (hip with a
fong, to which two hundred of his people formed a chorus of the moft
Jjleafing melody— —When the voices ceafed, he paid Captain Douglas the
compliment of exchanging names with him, after the manner of the
chiefs of the Sandwich Iflands.
365
1788.
JUNR.
At feven In the morning they flood up the inlet, and at nine came
to in eighteen fathoms water, when they moored the (hip with the
ftream-anchor. Through this channel, which is formed by Charlotte's
Iflands, and an ifland that lies off the Weft end of it, the tide was
found to run very rapid. The paflage takes its courfe Eaft and Weft,
{tbout ten or twelve miles, and forms a commAHiication with the open
fea- — It was now named Cox's Channel — Very foon after the fliip was
moored, the long-boat was fent to found in the mid-channel, but no
foundings
Sunday at
k
ill
h r I'.
»i
'it ">
'i'
;..•
•m
1789.
Junk.
36^ VOYACESTOTHE
foundings could be obtained with eighty fathoms of line ; but near the
rocks, on the (larboard (hore, they had twenty and thirty fathoms
water.
i>r.i\ ■ ' ■
Having been vifited the preceding night by two canoes, which lay on
tlieir paddles, and dropped down with the tide, as was fuppofed, inex-
peftation of finding us all aflecp, they were defired to keep off, and
finding themfelves difcovcred they made haftily for the (hore. As no
orders had been given to (ire at any boat, however fufpicious its appear-
ance might be, thefe people were fufFered to retreat without being inter-
rupted.— This night, however, there happened to be feveral women on
board, and they gave Captain Douglas to underftand, that if he or his
crew (hould fall afleep, all their heads would be cut off, as a plan had
been formed by a condderable number of the natives, as foon as the lights
were out, to make an attempt upon the (hip.— The gunner therefore re-
ceived his inftrudions, in confequence of this information, and foon after
the lights were extingui(hed, on feeing a canoe coming out from among
the rocks, he gave the alarm, and fired a gun over her, which was accom-
panied by the difcharge of feveral mu(kets, which drove her back again
with the utmoft precipation.
Monday i» In the morning the old chief, Blakow Coneehaw, made a long fpeech
' from the beach ; and the long-boat going on (hore for wood, there were
upwards of forty men iflued from behind a rock, and held up a thimble
and fome other trifling things, which they had ftolen from the (hip ;—
but when they found that the party did not intend to moleft them, they
gave a very ready and aftive afllftance in cutting wood, and bringing
the water-calks down to the boat.— Some time after the chief came on
board, arrayed, as may be fuppofed, in a fa(hion of extraordinary cere-
mony, having four (kins of the ermine hanging from each ear, and one
■\ 3 from
.^''
'-f^
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.
from his nofc ; when, after Captain Douglas had explained to him the
rcafon of their firing the preceding night, he firft made a long fpeech to
his own people, and then aflured him that the attempt which had been
made, was by fome of the tribe who inhabited the oppofite (hore; and
entreated, if they (hould repeat their no£lurnal viCit, that they might be
killed as they deferved.— He added, that he had left his houle, in order
to live along-fide the fhip, for the purpofe of its proteftion, and that he
himfelf had commanded the women to give that information which they
had communicated. — ^This old man exercifed the moft friendly fervices
in his power to Captain Douglas, and poflefled a degree of authority
over his tribe, very fuperior to that of any other chief whom they had
fcen on the Coaft of America. ,, ., .
367
1788.
JVM.
41^
In the afternoon Captain Douglas took the long-boat and ran acrofs
the channel, to an illand which lay between the (hip and the village of
Tatanee, and invited the chief to be of the party ; who, having feen
him pull up the wild parfley and eat it, he was fo attentive as to order a
large quantity of it, with fome falmon, to be fent on board every
morning.
j.»
^ki!'
■Ill
m!;,i',it *>ill yr'''»ii.l»
At fix o'clock in the morning of the i^d, finding the ground to be bad, Tuefdiy »$
they ran acrofs the chaimel to a fmall harbour^ which is named Beal's
Harbour, on the Tartanee fide ; and at ten dropped anchor in nineteetr
fathoms water, about half a cable's length from the ihore ; the land
locked all, round, and the great wooden images of Tartanee bore Eaft,.
one quarter North; the village on the oppofite (hor? bearing South half
Weft. — ^This harbour is in the latitude of 54° 18' North, and longitude
^iz^*'^' JEaft.— It was high water there at the change, twenty minutes
paft midnight ; and the tide flows from th« ^eftward^ fixtcen feet per-
pendi-
* >r-/-t
i
*ii
I
3«t
VOYAGES TO THE
ijS^* pendtcular.->The night tides were higher, by two feet, than thofe of
*""• the day.
The three following days were employed in purchafing (kins, and pre-
paring to depart ; but as all the flock of iron was exp'-nd d they were
under the neceflity of cutting up the hatch-bars and chain- plates.
Saturday 17 Qn the momiiig of the 27ih, as foon as the chief returned, who had
gone on (hore the preceding evening, to get a frilh fupply of provifinns.
Captain Douglas gave orders to unmoor, and a breeze fpringing up, at
half pad nine they got under way, and ftecred through Cox's channel,
with feveral canowS in tow.— <At eleven, having got out of the ftrength
of the tide, which run vety rapid, they hove to, ai.J a briflc trade com-
menced with the natives, who bartered their (kUyp, for coats, jackets,
trowfers, pots, kettles, frying-pans, wa(h>hand Lafons, and whatever
articles of a iimilar nature could be procured, either from the officers or
the men ; but they refufed to take any more of the chain-plates, as the
iron of which they were made proved fo brittle that it broke in their ma-
nufadluring of it.— -The lofs of the iron and other articles of trade,
which had been taken out of the (hirt by the Spaniards, was now very
feverely felt, as the natives carried back no fmall quantity of furs, which
Captain Douglas had not the means of purchafing. '
>iT:'i jiu't Sit t^,n-iair lyiaut ,
i^ . . .
This tribe is very numerous ; and the village erf Tartanee ftands on a
very fine fpot of ground, round which was fome appearance of cultiva-
tion ; and in one place in particular it was evident 'that feed had been
lately fowq.— In all probability Captain Gray, in the floop Wafhington,
had fallen in with this tribe, and employed his conliderate friendfhip in
fbrming this garden ; but this is mere matter df conjeAure, as the real
-fad could not be learned from the natives. From the fame benevolent
fpirit
■i.'3i»
^^'
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERT A.
fpirit Captain Douglas liimfclf planted fome bcnns, and g>..e the natives
a quantity for the fame ufeful purpofc ; and there is little doubt but
that excellent and wholcfomc vegetable, at this time, forms an article
of luxury in the village of Tatancc. This people, indeed, were fo fond
of the cookery pratflifed on board the Iphigenia, that they very frequently
refufed to traffic with their fkiiis, till thty had been taken down to the
cabhi, and regaled with a previous entertainment.
The weather had been fo thick and hazy, fince they had quitted Noot-
ka Sound, that it was impoflible to get a fight of the moon or ftars for
the purpofe of making an obfervation ; Captain Douglas, tlicrcfore, was
under the neceffity of reducing the longitude of the dilTercnt places which
he vifited, from the obfervations he had made during his voyage of the
preceding year.
3h
1739.
JVN«,
'\\
1
The Iphigenia now proceeded on her way to the Sandwich Iflands,
and without the intervention of any occurrence that merits a particular
relation ; — and it appeared on the i8th of July, by a medium of feveral J"'^'
. .» ^» / Satuiilay lit
obfervations, that (he was in the longitude of 206° 20'. And at fun rife of
the 20th, the extremes of Owhyhce bore from North Eaft by North, to Monday »«
South half Eaft, two leagues off fliore.
The fecond v-fit of Captain Douglas to thefe iflands had well nigh
compl'-ted the misfortunes of his voyage; — as a plan had Ikch formed by
the chicfi of Owhyhee to cut him off" with his crew, and then to rob and
deftroy the (hip. — Indeed it was in a great nieafmc owing to the manly
and prudcnbcondu£l of Captain Douglas th i- this fcheme, which was
regularly formed and adjuftcd, proved nbortivt-. — This dcfigti was to have
been executed on board the Iphigenia ; and tho* treacherous chiefs, who
were to have taken the lead in the bufinefs, had already introduced thcm-
V ' q A ~" felves
J
III
— _ ^ ' ^'i „!. UlL '
V.
]■
( i.
,^.\
'
\
370
1789.
JULV.
V O YAG E S TO THE
felvcs into the (hip. — One of them had got a piAol, others held daggers in
their hands ; and, as it may be fuppofcd, all were, in fome way or other,
fecretly armed, becaufe, as it afterwards appeared, each had his allotted part
to perform in the intended mafl'acre. The king's elder brother and Aropce
had engaged to kill Captain Douglas ;— Pareconow was appointed to (lab
Mr. Adam fon, the principal officer ; — Terreamctce, the younger brother
of the king, was to perform the fame inhuman office for the boatfwaiti,
and the other chiefs had each his murderous work afligned him ; whiclx
being compleatcd, a lignal was to have been given for the natives, who
lay in their canoes, to get on board, and to throw all that remained alive
mto the fea. — ^The velTel was then to have been pulled in pieces, and
carried up into the mountains, in order to prevent any fufpicionsof what
had happened from alarming fuch Grangers as might vifit the ifland at
any future period.
Such was the account which Tianna gave to Captain Douglas,
with tears and lamentations, of the intended tragedy, in which, though
he could not prevent the defign, he refufed to co-operate, and had em-
ployed his fervant to give notice of it ; but the man had been fo clofely
watched by fome or other of the chiefs, that he had not found an op-
portunity to make the purpofed communication.
When, however. Captain Douglas faw the chiefs armed, and found
that the queen had been fecretly conveyed away from the (hip : he
began to fufpecfl mifchief and aiSted accordingly. He took care, in
the firft place, not to betray any figns of apprchenfion or alarm ; and
very properly conceiving that if he (hould call his people up to prevent
the apparent danger, it might drive the infidious people to fome ad of
defpair that might produce very fatal confequences to the (hip, — he
determined to try a more tranquil method ; and, under various pre-
, ' ■ ■ tences.
NORTH WESTCOASTOF AMERICA.
tcnces, got a piftol from one of tlic chiefs, ami a dagger from
another, and being armed himfclf, he waited with impatience fur the ar-
rival ofTianna, who was on ftiore, to determine in what mannt-r he fliould
finally proceed. In a very (hort time that chief came on board, and
Captain Douglas taking him alunc into his cabin and bolting the door,
he infifted upon being informtd concerning the intentions of the king
and his people, when Tianna threw himfelf upon tlic floor, in an agony
of diftrefs, and unfolded what has been already related,— laid the whole
blame on the king, and recommended that he (hould be itilLmtly put
to death. Captain Douglas immediately jumped on deck, with a
loaded piftol in each hand, which had fuch an efFedl on the chiefs, who
were affmbled there, that they quitted the fhip in an inftant, and
drove their canoe fwiftly to the fhore.
37«
1789.
July.
Such an hoftile and treacherous conduct in the king and his attend-
ants, as we have juft related, might be fuppofed to have broken off all
intercourfe between the ftiip ami the natives ; but as it was abfolutcly
neceflary to procure piovilions for the future part of the voyage, an
humiliating apology was rcceivcil from Tome-homy-haw, for what
had pafled, who laid all the Mame on his chiefs; and a communication
was renewed with the natives, which produced great plenty of hogs
and fruit, as well as bafsrope, the latter article being provided on ac-
count of the mifcrablc ftate of the cordage, &c. on board the (hip.
♦ * ,
On the 27th, Captain Douglas, after having left letters for myfelf j^,„„j^y ,j
and Captain Funter, in cafe either of us lliould touch at Owhyhee,
quitted the ifland.— Tome-homy- haw, to the laft, intreated forgivenefs,
and exprefled the deepeft concern for the alarm which he and his chiefs
had occaHoned ; and Tianna, with all the fenfibility of an honeft and in-
genuous mind, continued to lament it.— Indeed, fuch was their condudl
* . . and
^',;!V'"»
•l|M*MlM#MMJBlMMtMi
37*
VOYAGES TO THE
1789; and behavlonr when the moment approached tor the Iphigenia to depart,
A»ooiT. jjjgf fjjgyg j,jj„ {jg „Q doubt but that Britith (hips will hercaiter find in
this ifland, all the comfort, prote»Slion, and friendship, which 'I'ome-
homy-haw and Tianna may have it in their power to procure them.
:i
i- i
.iV.
Tuefdayis On tltc following day they came to an anchor in Witetee Bay, in the
Ifland of Woahoo ; but every article of trade being now expended, the
armourers were ordered to cut up the rudder ch.uus, in order to pur-
chafe the provifions with which fcveral canoes hud come laden from
the (here. >: . ' - . ,
After touching at the other iflarids for water, yams, &c. on the loth
Monday 10 of Augufl, they quitted the Sandwich Iflands, and made Htil to the
Weftward.
On the 4th of O£tober, without having met with aigr! uitervening
occurrence of particular curiofity, apprehenfion, or good fdrtUnCi that
would juftify a defcription, they faw the Coaft of China ; and, on' the
following day, the Iphigenia, after her long and various voyages, and all
the dangers as well as interruptions encountered in them, arrived fafe/
and came to an anchor in the roads of Macao.
^
f3^/ ..
'#:
V
V
V
*•
4
sf(^*&r,
■ifetr-
HHWpWi II r i~i I rii f
1
T
or
RAF T- C OVE,
tnA'c/i dy MT Fun (er, Mtf//t:f f'/'/Zfr
NOR TIf W ^EST AMERICAN.
Lat.5o?;ij'N.
Loii. 23i?5.'>'E. fi/'CrefHwir/i
En^nved fyTJoot-
I ■■III
(I
1
IV
W:--:
rail in liMWi nciti ii-inr-iirrt¥i'rT-T'"*Tllmii"— -
)._t^ , -»^ .■'WN'7?*r*ii
.^'-
rv ^^j
M
„^
^•ifc' "
r;^"
#'
r
■f \_
■"*-.
I
•«ss
"U:
ii#'
^■tafe*"
■.ttM
ii>i— ■wi'>->««»<wH(Ni-*» « •<..*»*m»*<'iww» *^-«o-<f oif
nM
t!
r
I
> r' A*^**?* -^^.I
B L
OF THE
E
'Rovrn of tie FEhicK, //&f Variation o/" /^^ Compass, ««</ Meteorological
Observations, </«r/»^ //6tf Voyage.
N,B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ship, at Noon, is in general fet down ; and
the Variation as obferved fonie Time of the fame Day.
T A B L E I.
From CANTON in China, lo the PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
Time.
Latitude
tiorth.
Lcn^itude
Eaji.
Vtiriat.
Eajl.
fJlnd, IVeather, and Remarks.
17S8. I Deg. Mm.
'an. 22 21 33
*3
24
as
z6
27
29
30
31
Feb. 1
2
4
5
, 6
■ .• 7
8
20 54
i8 54
18 o
17 5
16 20
16 16
IS SI
15 19
Deg. Mm.
:i4 24
115 8
117 1
118 o
119 12
Dcg. Mm.
South Eall, light breezes, and at times extremely foggy.
• f Variab'e ; hght breezes, .with fredi gales : cloudy, hazy, and at
I times extremely foggy.
_^__ f Variable , Iqually with hard rain : fre(h breezes, with a great fea
I from N. E.
__^ r E. N. E. and N. E. by E. gloomy and unpleafant, with a heavy
I fea.
__^ f N.E. by N. and N. E. ftrong gales : during the night it blew ex-
I tremely hard, with a great hollow Tea.
___ J Variable ; a very high fea from the N.E. great quantities of rock-
^ weed and drift-wood.
3 45
!N. E. and N.
fvards modi
14 le.igucs.
by E. fre(h b.cezes and cloudy firft part, after-
moderate and fine. LuCotiia N. N. E, to E. S, E. 11 or
12
12 i
59
6
10 53
10 36
8 5«
— {
7
7
6
22
8
58
iz^ 28
— {
( Variable; moderate breezes and fine weather. Luconia N. N. E,
L to S. S. W. 6 leagues.
J Variable j and fine weather. Land N. by E. to N. E. by E. «
*■ leagues.
f Variable; frefh breezes and fine. Goat Ifiand N. E. by N. 6
< leagues. I.ucoiiia N. by W, to S. E. 14 leagues. The Lu-
ban Hies.
Variable; frefli breezes and fair: the nlght^tempcduous, and a
high fea. Between Mindoro and the Calaminea.
{Variable; moderate and pleafant ; tl.e night tempclluous. Under
the fliores of Mimioro.
N. E. Weather moderate. Panay N. E. by E. to S. E. 9 leagues.
Variable; moderate breezes and fine. P.uiay 4 miles.
Variable ; frefli breezes and clear.
r N. E, and variable ; pleafant breezes and fair. Magindanao E.
\ 7 or S leagues.
N.N.W. and variable? moderate breezes and fine. Bafilan S.S.W.
9 leagues. On the Magind.iiiiio Shore.
/ Variable; light airs. At anchor at I'ort Caldera^ at Samboingan,
V in Magindanao.
1
i
•4
'')
•m'
-:■»*»*■'•:'
-,mf!(^i%-
iagS^mSi%
Nv*^..i I'M **.*!»--'■ -S-'^H)^
APPENDIX.
'V
hi ■
T A B L E II.
^6ut£ cfthcTiticzfr'm Samboingan mNookta, arKiNG George's Sound, tit the "S, W,
Coast o/" America.
TVwf.
Latitude.
North.
1788.
Ff^. I 2
15
16
»7
18
»9
20
21
21
24
25
86
27
^j I
0(•J»^ Min
6 34
6 48
6 X
4 58
3 32
2 40
a 35
I 47
I 56
I 9
O 23
o 20
0 26
1 2
I 2
O 56
o 55
Longitude
Eajl.
f^itriat.
Eojl.
/Finds, fVcathtr, and Remarks.
Dig. Min.
124 50
126 36
>27 5S
128 10
131 10
•3' 3«
132 19
»33 S3
'35 38
136 35
'37 38
Dig. Min.
I 10
r N. N.W. fieni gales; Bafilan S. W. by S. to W. N.W. 4 leagiics,
l and two finall iflands, named Felice's Klands, N. by E. 4 miles.
(Lii'Jit ami v.liiable winds i fiiltry and cloudy; in the night Iieavy
rain olF Magindanao.
I Variable light airs ; hot and fiiltry : hard rain during the night.
I Magindanao E. half N. 8 leagues.
E. N. E. light breezes and cloudy; during the night windy ; two
fniall iflands S. S. K. 5 leagues. Magindanao N. 13 leagues,
and feveral other fmall illands ; and one aimed level with the
water, half a mile, which we called Providence Ifland.
{N. E. frelli breezes and fmcj palTed between two fmall iflands.
The Talour Iflands N. N. E. Sanguir Ifland W.
!N. E, and E. N. E. ftrong breezes and fair. Land E. 1 1 leagues.
LandatS.S.W. North Cape E. 14 leagues. Morintay N. E.
by E. half E. to E. S. E. 6 leagues.
f N. E. (Irong wind and fqually ; parted between Riou and Jelolo ;
I Morintay in light.
f"N. E. by N. and N. moderate breezes, with flying fliowers of rain ;
tpalTed a number of fmall iflands, befnccn Morintay and Jelolo.
Kiou S.W. by W. to S.W. hall" S. 9 leagues. Jelolo S. 6.W. to
S. K. II le.ngiies.
/N. E. liglit airs and fine weatliT. Morintay S. by W. half W.
toW. by N. lialfN. 16 leagues. Jelolo S.byW. to S.W. 14
I leagues.
N. E. light breezes and fine. Morintay N. W. to W. 14 leagues.
{N. E. light breezes and cloudy. Land fcen E. S. R. to W.by N.
9 leagues. Wagiew S. E. by E. to W. 6 leagues,
{Variable, and N, W. fqually with rain. Wagiew S, E. half E.to
S W. by W. 4 leagues ; two fmall iflands in the N. E. quarter.
{W. N. W. light breezes, fqually with rain. The Tattce Iflands
in fight.
f W, S. W. and W. N. W. light breezes and fultry. Near the
I Talee Iflandj.
{W. N.W. pleafant breezes and fine weather, with a large fwell
from the N. E. and very fultry. Paffed the Tattee Iflands.
{Variable; clofe and fultry j thunder and lightning ; fqiiallsof rain.
Pafled the Freewill Iflands.
{Variable; light winds, fultry and fqually, with much rain, thua-
der and lightning.— Near the Freewill Iflandi.
1
w
APPENDIX.
TABLE II. continued. .
Route efthi Felice from Samboinoan to Nootka, or Kino George's Soundi en the N. W.
Coast of America.
Time.
1788.
Fei. 29
March 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
It
12
13
14
15
X7
18
>9
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
s8
29
30
3»
y//n7 I
Latitude
North.
Longitude
Eaji.
Fariat.
Eaft.
fVinds, fVeathtr, and Remarks,
Dig. Min.
I 7
2
3
3
3
3
2
3
3
3
3
2
2
2
3
4
6
40
fa
5
14
>4
58
2 55
17
3Z
SO
»5
45
27
41
25
14
12
37
8 22
9 48
11 18
12 36
14 —
15 26
17 2
18 7
19 29
21 2
21 53
22 26
Bfg. Min,
'37 lo
136 56
136 37
'37 9
137 59
'38 58
'39 58
141 18
142 47
142 25
'42 55
H4 25
'45 37
•46 35
145 >5
146 30
147 58
147 9
146 3
146 4
145 18
144 45
'43 58
142 58
142 26
141 45
141 12
140 25
»39 48
140 26
139 38
Drg. Min,
— {
30
-!
2 18
S. E. light airs, with frequent Tqualls of rain ; near the Freewill
Illuiids.
__ r Variable; from N. E. to E, N. E. thick clo\idy weather, very fuUr>',
and heavy fquulUof rain,
30 N. E. moderate breezes, cloudy, fqiially, and heavy rain.
N. Eafterly, exlremt'ly tenipcftuoiis, and very heavy rains.
N. E. ver)' fqiially, great rains, and much fca.
N. E. modcr;ite, cloudy; a great fwell from N, ^^
Variable, light breezes, fqualls of ruin.
N. Eallerly, fqually, with Ihowers of rain.
N, Eaficrly, fqualls, much thunder, lightning, and heavy rain ;
after, light breezes and fiiltry.
Variable, light winds, flying (howcis.
Variable, light airs, clofe and Tuitry.
N. filaflerly, fciually, hard rain, clofe and fultry.
N. N. E. fqually, hard rain.
Variable; moderate breeze, cloudy, very fultry. »;
N. N. E. pk-afant breezes, fine weather.
Variable, li;;ht airf.extreniily fultry.
N. Kaftcrly, uioderate breezes, fine, and extremely fultry.
K. N. E. liylit breezes and fine weather.
N. K. moderate breezes and fine leather.
VariaLlf lijjht breezes and fine weather ; a large fwell fromN. E.
N. E.plcafant I'rceze, cloudy ; a large fu ell.
Variable; frefli breezes, flying Ihowers of rain and cloudy.
N. E. plcafant breezes, fqualls of rain.
N Earterly, iilealant breezes and fine weather.
N. E. pleafant breezes, fine weather.
N. E. pleafant breezes, fine weather.
N. E. tVelli breezes, fine weather; numbers of birds fcen about
the (bip.
— N. E. iloudy, fquallsof rain.
24 N. E. frefh breezes, much fwell, a heavy and confufed fea.
24 N. E. light breezes, hazy.
— E. by S. and S. E. light airs and hazy.
Variable; clouds black and heavy, thunder and lightning; nuine-
rous Hock.s of birds,
r Variable; frcfli breezes, cloudy, thunder and lightning, with a
\ very heavy fea and fonie rain, with a tcrnblc whirlwind.
4
4
a
3
3
3-
26
12
6
10
50
^,6
— {'
-('
iH
P P E N
X.
TABLE II. continued.
Route of ihe Fs.Liczfr9m Samboincan /« NooTKA,#r King Georci'i Sovko, oh ihe N. W.
CoAiT 0/* America.
Time.
1788.
10
II
12
*3
*3
24
25
Latitude
North.
Longitude
£1/1.
Fariat.
Eajl
Windi, IVeathir, and Rtmarh.
Dfg, Mill.
24 56
24 44
27 30
38 14
18 58
29 50
30 5
31 22
33 18
14
3<>
20
»5
36
49
16
38
40
«7
38
5'
18
39
21
»9
40
20
20
40
38
21
4»
14
22
41
44
4^ 35
43 —
Dtg, Mn,
'43 39
»45 41
146 12
h8 37
151 56
154 19
157 4
158 48
«S9 36
167 -
168 48
171 26
175 10
178 3
182 9
182 29
185 8
189 25
196 28
fliy, Min,
— {
— (
20
24
4 »4
52
— {
9 20
10
11
12 52
— {
N. W. violent gales, witli thunder, lightning and rain, and 4
mountainous Tea.
N. E. (Irong breezes and clear; land feen E. N. E. dittancc
8 leagues.
{S. E. frelh breezes, fouie rain, thick andhar.y. Two fmall iilanils
abreaft, 5 or 6 miles; we named them the Grampus lilcs.
N. W. (Irong breezes, a heavy rain, fleady gales and clear.
W. N. VV. ftrong gales, a heavy fca, weather clear, and very cold.
N. W. frefli breezes and clear weather : and very cold,
f N. N. W. flrOng breezes and fair weather: fawa rock at E. N. E.
\ half N. I league; we named it Lot's Wife: Rock- weed and
^ flocks of birds feen.
N. N. W. plcafant breezu, and fine.
Variable, light breezes ; cloudy, but pleafant.
r South; frefli breezes and fine weather; rock-weed, flocks of birds,
L a piece of a canoe and a piece of timber feen.
{S. S. E. a ftrong gale, j;loomy and overcaft, fina'.l rain and tliick
weather, and a great fra; faw ruck-weed and a rcddilli fpawn.
r N. W. hard gales and a heavy rain, and a very confufed fca; palled
\ more weed.
South ; light airs and clear v.eather.
S. E. frefli breezes and drizzling rain, ftrong breezes and liard
rain.
f E. S. E. hard gales, much rain and a heavy fea ; pafTed a large
\ turtle, large flocks of bird.t and rock-weed; clear, and extremely
I cold.
Variable; flronggales and a largo fe.i.
f S. W. and S. S. E. flrong gales, with fqiialls of rain ; thick and
I hazy, and a heavy fea.
Variable ; fqually and conflant rain ; (^iflld a piece of drift wood.
Eafterly ; light airs, cloudy, and very cold,
r Variable ; light breezes, cloudy, hard gales, with Uiualls of fiiow
L and fleet, and extremely cold ; pafll'd a large V% of wood.
{W. N. W. ftrong gales, fqu-illy, a high fea with hail and fnow ;
flocks of birds and rock-weed feen, and the trunk of a Iarj;i'
tree.
W. N. W. and S. by E. very hard gales ; a hard rain, and an ex-
ceeding great fea.
W. N. W. very hard gales, with rain, and an inuncnfe high fea.
i4 ■ '
I ,
I
APPENDIX.
TABLE II. continued.
Route cf iht Felice/tsm Samboincan /« NooTKA,i9r King George's Sound, en the N. W.
Coast of America.
T'lmt.
Latitude
North.
Longitude
Eaft.
Vitr'iat,
Eaft.
fVindiy IVtather, and Remark f.
1788.
j^prit 26
27
»8
29
30
My I
7
8
9
10
II
iz
«3
Dig. Milt,
43 35
43 50
44 33
45 »9
45 46
46 5
46 44
47 45
48 10
48 59
49 i8
49 "8
49 *8
49 30
49 3*
49 35
49 «6
203 Ij
204 36
209 36
204 2
207 45
212 3
217 1
230 52
21 1
— 1
219
223
226
9
22
57
229
22
223
22
—
—
21
I Deg. Milt.
S. and S.W. by W. ftrong gales, fqiially, and a great hollow fca.
S. W. flrong gales, fqiuilly, with rain.
S. Ilrong gules, Iiazy, and a heavy lea.
S. S. W. ftrong breezes, fugj'.y, and much fea.
W. N. W. fqually, with Ihowers of rain and fleet! pafled a fecond
fpar.
W. N. W. and S. flrong breezes, fleet and fmall rain ; moderate
and cloudy.
S. S. K. flrong breezes, with rain ; Taw a rmall piece of drift wood
and birds.
18 E. N. E. light breezes, fqually, and fome rain.
— — S, S. W. fqually, thick and hazy, with rain.
— — S. S. W. frclh breezesand foggy ; faw a whale.
W. N. W. cloudy, fmall rain,frcni breezes, foggy; faw fea-fwal*
lows and flieer-waters.
W. by N. fqually, with rain. ,
W. by S. fqually with fnow and hail; faw a fca-parrot and a
piece of drift wood.
S. Wefterly; fqualls of fnow and hail.
Variable; fqually, with fno'/r and hail.
S. Weflerly ; very heavy fqualli, with fnow and hail ; faw lanci
£. by S. 13 leagues.
S. E. by E, very heavy fqualls of wind and rain, and much
fea. Nootka Soimd N. E. 11 leagues; faw a veffel off the
Sound.
S. by E. flrong gales, fnow and hail. Entered Friendly Cove,ia
King George's Sound, abrcafi the village of Nootka.
— 1
_ -r
■ij
TABLE III.
■umiini
I'i J ' >■
N D I X.
TABLE III.
Route »//** Felice />•«« NooTK A, er Kinc; George's Sound, along the N. W. CoAiT »/
America, and back to Nootka.
Time,
1783.
'^une 1 1-
12
»J
20
29
July X
2
3
4
5
LnUludc
Koi th.
Longitude
tojh
I'ariat,
Eajl.
JVlndi, Weather, and Remarks.
D,g. aiin.
49 "
48 39
47 46
47 —
47 »
46 10
7
45
12
8
45
10
9
46
34
10
47
49
11
48
45
20
48
41
21
48
45
22
47
50
23
48
36
24
49
40
25
49
38
>^//^-. 8
—
—
9
49
25
10
. —
—
24
—
—
Dig. Mn.
^35 34
21
Min.
- {
28 8
16
18
10
30
t Variable i light winds and clear. Breaker's Point N. W. half W.
Half-way Point K. 3 leagues.
S.KaHeily; llrung gales, heavy rain and much fea ; ofTlliore 6 leag.
{H. Northerly ; flrong gules, thick weather and conltant rains; en-
tered Wicananifli Port j remained till the 10th i weather Itormy.
In Port Cox, where we reiriained till the 28th.
iW. Northerly; pleafant and moderate ; otf thciflandsof Barclay
Sound, and entered thcflraits of John de Fiica.
{Wefterly; moderate and fine; Cape Flattery S. E. half E. <
leagues; paflTed the illand of Tatootche.
{S. Wefterly; flrong gales, hazy and rain; Cape Flattery N. N. W.
off the (lioreofQueenhithe. The ilk of Deltrudion ■ mile.
S. Wefterly ; heavy rain ; thick fog ; heavy fea. Pafled Saddle Hill,
S. Wefterly; frelli breezes, conftant rain, thick weather, and a
great fwell frem the Weftward.
S, W. moderate, clear weather; faw Mount Olympus.
(S. E. light breezes, clear weather; Mount Olympus N.N.E, 7 lo.ig.
Paired Low Point and Shoal Water Bay, and Cape Shoal VN'aiir.
(Northerly; (Irong gales, a great fea. PalTcd Cape Dirappoiiitmenf,
into Deception Bay, and hauled out again, and paifed Quick-
fand Bay, Cape Grenville, and Cape Look-out.
N.WcCcrly; (iroug breezes & cloudy. C.Look-outE.byS.iilea,
N. Wefterly; light breezes, fair.
S. Wefterly; fqiially, with rain.
N. Wefterly; fqually, with rain. Cape Beal N. by E. 10 leagues.
{Southerly; light breezes and pleafant. Entered Port Effingham,
where we remained till the joth.
S. E. light breezes; left Port Effingham.
N. Wefterly; frcfti breezes; Port Effingham N. W. by N. 5 milei.
{W. N. W. pleafant breezes; Breaker's Point N. W. ; tlie Sugar
Loaf, or Port Cox, W. N. W. 15 or 16 leagues.
Variable; light breezes; fmall rain.
S. Eaftcrly; thick and hazy; fmall rain.
S.Eafterly; thick and foggy; KingGeorge'sSoundE.N.E.tileag.
Sailed out of Friendly Cove.
{E. Southerly ; frefti breezes; thick and foggy. Spoke to tli«
Princcfs Royal of London, Captain Duncan.
E. by S. At Port Cox, where we remained till the 10th.
Returned toNootka, where we remained till the 13 d Septemb^.
I'J '
^Soi
APPENDIX.
TA B L E IV.
Route of the TtLicz/rom Nootka, or Kino Glorce's Sound, /» the Sandwich
Islands.
Time.
1788.
Sept. 23
24
26
-7
28
29
0£l. I
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
II
12
»3
>4
15
16
»7
li
Latitude Longitude Irariat.
Noith. tiiji. Eaji.
Dig. Min.
47 Zi
45 30
43 44
42 2
40 I
38 42
37 48
36 23
35 12
34 25{
33 53
3« 44
29 36
28 I
26 40
26 9
24 50
22 41
20 54
20 15
20 6
20 ti
20 13
H^imls, fFeather, and Remarks,
Drg. Min.
231
228
225
322
221
220
^7
3«
16
52
48
i9
D,g. Min,
219
218 30
1 < S 1 7 p«r Ac
1:1 jjpsrOb.
220 49
220 32
218 22
217 23
217 18
2174630
216 30 40
34
12
214
212
209 42
209 20
207 44
—
f Northerly; a frefli breeze ; failed out of FricnJly Cove j a frefli
gale, with much fea. Breakcr'i Point E. S. li. Emiancc of
I Friendly Cove N. half \Vc«.
. N. Wefterly ; ficdi breezes.
■ N. by W. plcafant breezes and cloudy.
20 16 N. Wefterly, [ileafant breezes and cloudy.
— — N. \V. and N. N. E. moderate breezes: fqually with fmall rain.
- N.N. E. light breezes and cloudy, with flyinjj fqualls of rain,
' Variable; light breezes and cloudy, with light flying fqualli of r»in.
Variable; light airs; frequent fqualls, with fmall ran.
Variable ; frequent fqualls and c'.oudy.
Variable; frequent fquidls, with heavy rain.
I—.— N. Eafterly; light breez:^ and clear,
■ Vari.ible; light airs and clear.
^— Variable ; ftrong gales, fquallj-, with much fea.
N. Wellerly; frequent fqualls ; fhowcrs of rain, and much fe«,
— — N. by W. pleal'ant breezes and clear.
S. Wertcrly; pleafant breezes and clear.
Variable ; light airs and clear.
r N. E. and E. N. E. light airs, the breeze increafing: a lai-g«
I fivell from the N. E.
22 E, N. E. frcfli trade-wind and clear weather,
E. N. E, fredi trade and cloudy.
E. by N. pleafant trade and cloudy.
E. by N. light trade and clear.
E. byN. light trade and clear, intermixed witli (quails.
/Variable; fciually, with Iicav7 rain, and hazy. Saw land from
I E. S. E. to W. N. W. diftant 6 leagues.
1.1 Toe-yah-yah Buy, at the illand of Owhyhee,
55
2
55
36
TABLE V.
1/
APPENDIX.
T A B L E V.
Route «f iht Felice atiht Sandwich Islands, and fiom thencito Ch ina.
Time,
f,
Latitiidt
Sorth,
Lem'iiudc
Eaft.
17615.
O^oher 19
20
21
a2
i»3
24
35
26
27
28
29
30
3»
2
3
7
8
9
10
II
IS
»3
Vor':at.
Eajh
IVinds, JFcather, and Rimatks,
D:g. Mm.
20 36
20 46
21 II
21 3>
21 S5
21 59
5^5
56
50
5
23 28
21
21
21
23
Pf^. il/i«, Di-g. Mm.
23
41
24
3
20
6
23
47
23
33
22
52
22
24
21
48
21
48
21
48
21
49
21
4^
21
33
21
25
21
10
21
10
•99 45
196 44
'93 42
i^o 40
187 45
185
1S2
182
15
18
50
179 55
177 2
— (
171 06
iz 20
i68 9
164 50
11 —
\'^6 54
II 20
163 IS
JO 35
»55 51
10 14
153 lO
150 37
7 44
6 35
— {
— {
S. W. and N. E. at Ain-rife extremM of Mowee bore from
W. N. W. to K. N. K. diliant 3 miles.
N.K. anil variable; tight airs and 6ne ; hot and Aillry. OK
Mowee.
Variable; light airs and fiiltry. Mdrotoi from N. W. by W. to
the Ifland of Ranai, W. by N. 4 miles. At noon MorotoiE.
■ o leagues.
Variable; pleafant breezes and fair. Pafled Woahoo.
N. Kaflerly; light breezes. At noon Atooi fromE, by S. t»
W. by N. Onceheow W. by N. 10 leagues.
N. E. frefh breezes and fqually. At Wymoa Bay.
N. E. Hrong gales. Steering for Oneeheow, where we arrived a|
about 6 o'clock in the evening.
E. N. E. moderate and fair. At Oneeheow.
E. N. E. frefh breezes and fair, Leftthe 1 (land of Oneeheow*
N. E. frclh trade and cloudy.
N. E. pleafant trade, and fome fmall rain.
N. EaUcrly; pleafant trade, with fonic fqualls and fmall rain.
N. EaOerly ; fqually, with fome rain at noon ; pleafant trade and
fair. Many birds about the (hip.
E. N. E. and N. E. fqually with rain. Several birds about the
ftiip.
Variable ; fqunl'y with hard rain ; at noon pleafant trade and fair.
£. S. E, and E. N. E. pleafant trade and fair; at noon fqually
with r.iin.
E. N. E. fqually, with frequent fliowersof rain; at noon pleafant
breeze and fair.
E. N. E. fqually, with hard fhowers of rain: at noon pleafant
trade.
E.N. E. frefh trade and pleafant; the night fqually with rain ; at
noon fine and pleafant.
E. N. E.— N. E. and E. frefh breezes and cloudy.
E. N. E. frefh trade and fqually, with rain.
E. by S.— E. and E. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair.
E. by S. and E. N. E. frefh trade and pleafant.
N. E. nearly ; frefh breezes and fqually.
E. N. E. light breezes; hot and fultry.
E. N. E. and E. S. E. light breezes and clear weather,
E. S. £. and £. by N. light breezes and fair.
.».-.«,; >^
n
VH
I
A P P E N D I X.
TABLE V. continued.
Route •/<*# Felice a/ /Af Sandwich IiLANDs, and from thinci to Cam \,
Time.
Latitude
A'or th.
Longitude
Eaft.
Vuriat.
Eajl.
Winds, If'caihtr, and Remarks.
I7»8.
Nov. 15
16
17
18
19
20
ai
22
*3
a4
*S
26
27
28
29
30
3
4
•5
Org.
20
21
21
Min.
48
4
10
21
*3
42
3
21
»{
—
20
40
20
20
«3
2
20
38
20
40
21
2
21
22
27
28
21
49
2t 10
?er Ac,
21
38
22
7
3
Org.
146
■46 54
142 18
139 28
»39 3
l}9 iSpcrAc,
'45 5JP«'0''
141 20
137 O
136 O
i3i 5»
130 54
127 46
124 54
122 20
IZI ZO
"9 5S
117 22
6 16
57
39
13 l^
3 38
— (
— {
Between K.by S. and E. by N. liglit trudeand line weather.
E. light breezes i hot and hiUry.
E. hght breezes and clear j at times cloudy.
Variable; flrong gales, with a great fca.
S. Wcilcrly ; (Irong gales, with much rain.
From W. S. W. to N. N. W. light breezes and cloudy.
Prom N. W. to E. byS. rqually, with frequent fliowcrt.
N. E. light airs, rain, nuich lightning, and a large fwell from
the N. E.
Variable from E. S. E. to N. E. fqually, with rain.
S. S.E. and E. S. K. fquallyi with rain.
Variable ; light breezes.
N. E. light breezes i heavy fqualls of rain, with a he»vy fwell
from the N. E.
N. E. frclh gales and cloudy, with fmall rain,
N. E. frclh gales ; fqually with rain.
N. Eadcrly, pkafant breezes and cloudy.
K. by N. (trong gales and fqually, with rain at times.
N. Eallerly ; hght breezes ; conllantrain, and very thick weather.
Saw feveral land birds.
N. E. durkcloudy weather; hard fqualls, and conflant rain, u'.«h
a great lea. Saw Botol Tobai^o Xima.
E. N. E. frclh ga!c:i; fqually; fwell of ilie foa J^'jiciifiug.
Saw the Coart of China- . :
Anchored in tite ru:'.il-: cf M.icao. I
(
■:.i:/':\ ~"'^^'-: ■ ., ; <
' ,! ; ♦ I : 1
• iMi 'i -iiu ;
j»,n*
.. . ,,;:;. . A UiR 7''..' ■ ■::' v.j /
' ■ •,r^j •; .. 1:1 ,\ ,, ./
TABLE VI.
I ii
/
r p E w D 1 X
T A B L E VI.
ROUTK »/ Mr TPRTdtWrA /rMM SAMBeiNOAN /« CoOk'* R IV»l,,«tt ti« N.W.CaAIT •/AMtmcAr
Timt,
LiUllud*
Ncrlh.
Longitud*
tajl.
Variat.
ffiMt/', fVtathtr, and Remarki.
1788. \Dig. Mm
leh. It 6^ 57
93
25
«7
a8
SI,
Dfg. AfiH'
6 41
6 21
5 58
6 9
6 5
5 55
4. 1.8
3: J'*
3 O'
3
3
*^49
so
45
35
10
»«3 3^
«»4 53
126 21
126 4.
126 49
I&7 21
128 9.
129 7
129 48
130 34
»3» 4
-{
Dig.Min,
fMiMWntc brenrt and fairj at night ToinE r^n. Left Samboia-
j gan i Ulaml ofBaireUn from S.E. by K. lo S.W. by W. j San.
'^ tu Cru7. K. S. K. haif S. and another MtUnd K. S K. being in
mid clianiiel 1 fcvcral other illaiidt in fi^hl to ihi S. E.
N. WeOerly I light breMeij Mr weather, BallirUn, ai noen»
[ borefromW. S.W. to W. N.W. 10 league •
r Light ain ami calm*. At noon the Kail end ofBafUanN.W.byW.
\ and an \(Uiui S. W, hal( W 10 leugiici.
Vaiiable ; liglii airi. At fun-Tet BaTiliui bore N. W. and an ifland
N.N. W. hairw. ajlcagtiei.
{Light ain andMknt. An idand from N.N. W.toE. by N. 6 or
7 leagues.
{ZJght breezes and fultry, hot wwtlier. Land from N. to E. off
fliore 3 or 4 leagues.
{i. Wefleily i moderate brccae» with catnw. At noon Maginda.
nao from N. W. halt W. to K. half N. oflf fHore 3 leagues.
Lij^htairs and cainas. At noon Magindaiiaobcre from N.W, byW,
to S. E. by E. oflT IhoK 4 or 5. leaguM.
N. E. moderate bMcxcs with fquailsi and a lieavy naio. At day*
light 3 iOandsin Tight, from N. K. by N. to F,.N. E. E. S E.
and S. K. by E. 6 leagues. At noon Morotay S, by K, the
SoHthernmoA of the KabuangsS. S. W.hal£W.5 •/ 6 kagiies.
N. Hafterly; moderate breezes with fqualls of raia. At fun-fet
Aw 8 or 10 iilands, with dangerous breakors, from S. S. E.
to .N. by W. diltant from the body of them * niitet. At noon,
the ifland we faw yeAerday bore Vf. N. W. f teuguw.
Light breezes and fair weather.
Variable} light winds; cloudy with (iiuallk e£ rain. At noon-
took the latitude and longitude of an ifland, which was calledk
Morjtayi it lias in 1° it'N. and:ii7* 33.'£. by a numbet
of obfervations.
Variable ; frefli breezest cloudy and IquaUy. Saw land at fua.-
rife, bearing S. I or 9 leagues.
2 ICW North i a fteady breeze.
I OW N. EaQerlyj pleafant breezes and fair.
N. Eafterly; pleafant breezes and fair.
Ditto wind and weather. At 3 P. M,.faw a fmall ifland b«afui(;
E..half N( diftam le or u Icaguei.
1-r
I
APPENDIX.
T A B L E VI. eonfimttif.
RoUTIl/fAflrHIOKNIA f0»m SAMB0tHOAN/«CoOK'lRlVBIl,MI>#K.W. CoAiTf/'AMRiiteA^,
rorint.
Eo/i.
iriuJi, IVtaikir, ttuJ JLmarku
Mim. D*g
-[
I 37 w.
i I
» I
] 4tB,|i«TAm.,
45 «.
..I
N, Eaftiily ; pleafairt breexei nnA f.iir. Off tlic illand we Um
yc(lcrili>',wtiicli\v.uc:iltcd Jcihiilton't lll.inil, UUciiiij'' ii ' N»
ar.d iji" 1 1 ' E,
N. Kaflerly \ Diodrritic brrtici tnil iloiutf, '
Northerly j frclh brrr7.es and (qiuny.
____ N. K. frcfh hnrzc's uiul cloudy.
_____ Variable ; light airs.
4 6Ep«rAm. Light air» and raliii ; cloiuly » ith rafn.
tjIp.rAmp.}*^'"""'"'""^-""** *'•'<*• ^'
Variable ; li|{Jii breeze* and falr< '
From N. N. W. to N. E. light airs sad calm. | ,
N.W. liglMwMK
Vr. S, W. light ain with calm*,, aiid fome rain« ' ^ i
M«derate breeze;, cloudy with rain. , .^
Variakle to N. W. by W. f^aUf with i««. .
M. andN/N. K.ftvqMnlOiuaHi. } ' '
* 1 f. *
Calm; hot and Aihiy. ;; ! ^i.
Variable ; llftit airswith hard rain.
Variable, with light airs and calins, a*d foine rniik
Variable ; light windsrfqaallywkh rain. "-^
N. E. calms, witfcKght wiads.
N. N W. to N. £. light airt, calnu, with fqualU of rain«
M. E. iMiderate bfeezc witli fqiuUt of rttik
N. E. to E. N. E. fquaHy and cloudy, witli rain.. •
EquaHy with flwwert of raint
N, E. Arclh breezes , with fquallt^ndt heavy raihi
A fine bneze with ckar weather. At day>light faw two low.
iiland* bearing N W. by \V. 7 or » leagues, which were
named Good- Look out lOandt.. At noon they bore W, S. W,
half S. 3 or 4 leagues.
?N. E. (cinarlubly clear, and a (inoolh fi:a. Near a. dangerous
reef of rocks,.whichftretchedas far as Moore's Illand. Amon^ft
the Helew Iflands - , , ,
A frelh breeze with fqualls of rain..
N. Eaderly, moderate breezes with fair weather^
«. Ealterlyi haiy. '{ ■>
) je E.|)ai AV
3 J8
6 20.
{
P E N
I ,X.
J
!
T A B L E Vf. eontinued.
■HpuTE tf tb* IrifiGENiA/r«»i Samboinoak, it Cook's RiYBR, «n thtJi, W. Coait
of America.
Timi.
1788.
9
10
II
12
;i
iS
19
20
21
22
as
a4
25
26
27
28
29
30
LathuJe
North.
Slit CT"
3
J3
•4
15
16
»7
18
19
29
21
22
22
24
25
26
27
*7
V
28
29
3?„
30
30
30
31
JW/n.
5°
26
27
38
30
25
27
46
40
57
6
28
42
»5
9
4»
53
29
Lonfltudt
Eaft.
fariat,
Eaft.
fViHds, fFiathtr, and Rtmarks.
29 47
o
21
»9
50
26
132 27
132 9
131 58
131
»3i
18
12
130 41
130 6
130 1 1
129 ib
129 28
129 28{
130 9
"9 53
130 57
»3» 3
^3i 3*
»34 25
»34 S4{
135 »53o
137 a
^38 24
139 IS
Ui 13
M3 30
144 17
145 24
»47 35
Z><°j. Af/'a.
1 54
2 30
2 o
I 3 per Az. 1
I ■* par Am. J
I 5 p«r Am.
■ gper A<.
tt p«r Am.
3 43 P«r *»•
] 46 per At.
^1x1
4 9 per Az.
Moderate and cloudy witli rain.
E. N. E, plearant weather.
N. £, light breezes, fair weather with a heavy TweU.
£. N. E. a fteady breeze.
A moderate breeze and fair weather.
N. and £. light winds.
N. and E. a freOi breeze, with fqualUof rain and a heavy <ea.
Plcafant weather.
Light winds with rain. A number of boobies flying about the (hip.
Variable .ind light winds ; a frefli breeze at N. £. Several birds
about the (hip.
I Light winds and cloudy.
N. E. moderate breeze* and cloudy.
N. and E. a frefli breeze. A fmall land bird about the fliip.
Frefh Eallerly breezes and hazy.
' S« a fteady breeze.
W. S. W. to N. by E. a fine breeze; fqually at times.
Northerly i pleafaitt weather.
} E. N. E. pieafant weather. Pafled a great quantity of fea-weed.
S. E. moderate and fair.
Moderate and hazy. Sawagreatquantity of land-birdsand weed.
rEanedy; frelh hieezes; hazy, with fome rain. Several fwallowt
■j flying about thcfliip, and a linnet, which had remained with
I- ,us fome days. . .
{S. W. moderate breezes and hazy. lA number of birds about ihe
■fliip.
Eafterly ; frefli breeze! and hazy. A number of land-birds, tro-
pic-birds, and boobies flying about tlie flilp, and fea-wced feen.
Eallerly^ frefli brcezei and hazy. A number of birds of differ-
ent fpecies flying ab^ut the fliip.
Liglit winds. A numberof birds ftill about the rhip, and quanfi-
ties of fea-wecd.
S. W. jilcafant breezei and clear ; «t times calm. A number of
hvik as ufual. I -
Firft part clear weather; middle and latter frefli gales, and thick
lia/y weatlier. A great number of barnacles about the fl)ip.
Paired A half caflc ftigar tub.
APPENDIX.
TABLE VI. continued.
Kovn of iht l?Hiot,tti \ from Samboikgan (a Cook'i Rivek, tnih* N.W. Coast ^America.
he Ihip.
al birds
<p.
ea-weed.
id weed,
fwatlowt
led with
iboutilie
irds, tra-
ced feen.
of differ-
1 quanti-
iimber of
md thick
the (bip.
Time
1788.
Miy 5
6
7
8
9
10
II
12
»3
'4
15
16
• »7
18
'9
20
21
22
23
24
as
26
27
28
29
30
3'
7«w t
2
3
Latitude
North.
Lomitude
Eaji.
Deg.
Mm.
32
28
3*
3*
r
5»
33
36
2S
U
11
39
~8
5
»5
29
7
4
41
3+
42
43
27
46
45
10
47
15
48
4»
S"
26
5°
29
50
5>
58
49
5+
32
Deg. Min.i
149 2
»5o 34
150 28
150 38
»5' 29
152 6
154 41
156 19
iSo 30
162 18
'63 44
165 35
165 49
168 14
170 57
172 56
174 26
'77 3
»73 5«
178 51
181 3
•83 5
»85 M
187 23
188 2
iS3 26
190 19
»93 3»
•97 23
201 7
202 29
Varial.
Eaft.
JVittdt, IVeather, and Remarkt.
Deg, Min.
— {
9 8 per Am.
— {
S. S. E. to N. W. and a heavy gate. Pafled a quantity of fea-
weed, and a number of birds about the fliip.
Northward ; Itrong breezes, clear weather.
Nortlierly ; ftrong gales in fquallt.
/ Liglit breezes and clear pleafant weather. Saw a fnake and tw«
L curlews.'
Light winds and hazy. Saw feveral pair of wild ducks.
E. and S. fi-efti breeze and hazy. :
S. and E. (Iroiig gales witli heavy fqualU.
Northward; moderate clear weather.
Ditto.
Moderate and fair.
S. S, E. frelh breeze and cloudy.
S. W. frefli breeze and hazy,
W. by S. moderate, cloudy.
S. E. blowing hard; thick weather, rain.
S. S. E. to N. W. (Irong gales, hard fqualls, a heavy fwell. Pafled
a number of (hags.
S. W. liard gales.
S, W. and S. E. moderate, fttlh gales,
{S. E. and N. W. trefli gales, heavy fqualls, rain. At 9 A. M.
l^alTed a 'arge tree.
N. W. toP. W. moderate; a heavy, tumbling fea.
N, E (liick rainy weather.
N. W. frcrti breeze with rain.
N. W. frefli gales, fair weather.
— {
Eafterly; frefli breezes, hazy, rain,
N. E. by E. a frefh breeze, fqually. A number of difTerent birdi
flying about, and fettling on the water.
''N. E. moderate and hazy. At4A. M. fuw the Iflandof Amluck,
bearing N. byE. diliance about 14. leagues. At noon clear;
faw the land, bearing N. N. E. diftant 10 or 13 leagues.
N. Wefterly; light winds and calms.
Firft part moderate and clear ; latter, frefh breezes and cloudy,
Wefterly ; a ftcady breeze, hazy weather.
Wefterly; a fteady breeze, hazy weather.
{Wefterly; a moderate breeze till midnight, aftenvards a moderate
breeze fromE. S. E,
d
. is
APPENDIX,
TABLE VL donlinteJ.
tt.btifttf^tlrniG£)ii'iA/ritH SARtftoinoAN #« Cook's R i ver, «ii /ik N. W.Co ast {/"AMeric a.
Tim*.
1788.
yune s
8
9
10
II
12
»3
»4
15
16
LatliMdt
^orth.
Lonritud*
fPlkds, fTeather, ttni RUndrki
Dig.Min,
56 29
56 26
S6 56
56 48
56 45
56 59
58 I
59 4»
Dtg, Min,
204 54
206 12
206 —
205 36
3o€ 17
205 I 36
205 5
206 6/
206 3
206 40
»07 33
Deg. Milt.
— {
1146 per Al.
aj 16 per AM.
»45!perAi. ^
£. Northerly ; a frefli breeze; at nooln a hard gale. At day-
light raw Trinity Iflaad, bearing N. 'N. V(r. diflant 7 dr S leiig.
(The gale increaTing. At S P. M, the extremities of the land
from Cape Trinity, E. N. E. to N. W. by W. the neareft land
dilfaint 6 leagues. At 6 A. M. Cape Trinity bore N. E. about
I a or 1 3 leagues.
The gale ftill cncreafing to an Hurricane. At 5 A. M. faw land,
the extremities bearing from IH>int Trinity N.N.W. to W.S.W.
Two-headed Point W. N. W. diftant from the body of the land
I a Or 14 leagues.
'The hurricane ftill continued, with a mofl dreadful f<ta ; the wind
N. Eafleriy but variable; about j A. M. the gale abated, but
a dreadful fea continued. Saw Trinity Ifland bearing N. W.
diflant 5 or 6 leagues.
Eafterty; light breezes and fair weather. The ifland tvhich I
took for Trinity Ifland lies off the mouth of a iarje hiy.
Moderate and hazy. At 6 P.M. faw Cape Hollingsin 570 la'N.
latitude, and 107" 3'E. longitude. At noon the extremes of
land from W.N.W. toE.byS. the Ifland of Kodiack bore E.
~S. and E. at noon calm ; about s P. M. a breeze fprung up. At
noon Cook's Trinity Ifland bore E. half S. the extremities of the
Continent from E. N. £. half E. to N. half W, diflant from the
neareft land 7 leagues.
Variable ; light winds and pleafant. At 8 P. M. the extremities
of Trinity Ifland bore from E. by N. to 8. E. by E. half E. the
extremities of the coaft from N. by W. to N. E. by E. diftant
from the neareft land 4 or 5 Ufagites
'Firft pan fair weather and dear ; latter part light airs and calms.
At noon the extremities of the coaft bore from S. W. to Cape
dVevifteN. N. E. Trinity Ifland S.W,by S. diftant 10 leagues.
Sent the jolly-boat on fliore.
A light breeze. The jolly boat returned.
S.W, a fVefli breeze with a fog. At 5 A. M. faw Cape Greville
bearing W. 9 leagues. At noon Cape Whitfundaybore W.
half S. and the extremitiei 6> the land from the Ifland of Su
L Hermogenes. •
{S«uth'^ard ; a freflrgale. Palled the Barrm Illands into Cook'a
KiKr, where we remained till Ihf a)th.
'—^^iVWi
P P E N D I
TABLE VII.
X,
Route tftht IPHXoiNiA/rw» Cook's River to Nootka, or King George's Sound, oh tht
N. W. Coast ^ America.
Time.
30
July I
Latitudi Lon^ltMde I Fariat,
Ntrth. I Eaft. Eajl.
/Finds, fVcathir, and Remarks,
Deg, Min.
7
8
9
H
IS
16
59
59
18
59 47
Deg. Min,
59
59
60
»7
36
60 43
D*g, Min.
59 bl
59 58
213 35
*'3 5»
I
- r
{Frelh breeze; hazy, with rain. At it A. M. the EaRerninoft
of the Barren Idands bore S. S. £ and Cape Elizabeth N.N.E.
5 leagues.
I N. Eaflwaixl; moderate breeze; liazy and rain. At lo A. M.
[ the Ifland of St. Hermogenes bore S. W. didant 7 leagues,
r Light winds and calms. At 8 A. M, the body of the Barren
I inands bore N.W. by W. diftant 14 leagues.
{N. E. and N. N. E. frefli breezes; fqually and rain, with an
heavy fwell.
(Variable, with heavy fqualls and calms. At j A. M. wind S. E.
with moderate weather. Extremities of the continent from
N. N. W. to W. by S. diftant 10 leagues.
N. Eallerly; with fqudlls and rain. The extremities of land bore
from N. E. toS. W. half W. off (hore 4 leagues.
N. Eafterly ; fre(h breezes ; fqually and rain. At noon the ex-
tremitiesof land bore from N. half E. to W. half S. diftant 10
or II leagues.
{* Eafterly breezes and fair weather. At noon the extremities of
Montague lilandbore from N. by E. toN. byW.
Eafterly ; frefti breezes and fair. At noon furrounded witli
land, except towards the paflage by which we entered, which
bore S.
{E. S. E. light breezes. Paffed between Montague Iftand and the
Green Iflands.
{Light winds, with clear weather. At anchor in Snug Corner
Cove, where wc remained till the ■ 4th.
Light airs and hazy.
fWeftward ; a light breeze ; at noon calm and cloudy. Cape Hin>
chinbroke bore S. S. E, and the N. E. end of Montague Ifland
S. diftant 3 or 4 leagues.
{E. N, E. thiclc and cloudy weather. At noon the extremes of
Montiig\ic Ifland bore from S. W. half W, to W. by N. Cape
Hinchinbroke N. W. by W. 8 or 9 leagues.
E. moderate breeze and clear. At noon the extremities of the
land bore from W . N. W. to N. E. by N. The body of Mon.
tague Ifland W. N. W. diftant from the main land 5 or C
leagues.
i -,i
APPENDIX.
TABLE VII. centitmd.
Route »f the Iphicenia /r0m Cook's River lo Noqtka, »r Kino Georoe's Sound, »h tht
N. W. Coast of America.
Tmt.
Latltudi
North.
Lontitudt
Eaft.
Winds, IVtathtr, and Rtmarit.
1788.
Jfuly 18
20
21
22
*3
84
«5
26
27
28
29
30
3'
Jug. I
Deg. Mm.
59 5»
59 57
59 57
59 »8
59 5
59 «7
59 14
59 o
59 5
59 9
59 23
59 st6 per Ac.
59 *7
59 41
59 i« per Ac
59 16
Drg, Min.
214 2
215 51
216 14
216 23
217 10
a«5 38
216 47
ai6 30
216 18
217 13
i»7 54
219 20
219 42
219 47
2«9 33
22 11
Dig. Min.
\
N. and E. light winds and calm. At 4 P. M. Kay't Ifland bore
N. E. half E. diftant 13 or 14 leagues. At noon the S. endof
ditto bore N, E. by E. half E. diflant loleagues; thecxtremes
of the continent from N. N. E. half E. to W. by N.
Variable ; at times a light breeze, at others heavy fquall* with
rain. At midnight palTed the S. end of Kaye's Illand. At
noon Cape Suckling bore W. by N. diflant 3 or 4 leagues.
S. and E. light breezes; at 3 P. M. E. N. E, heavy fqualls, with
rain. At noon tlie body of Kaye's Ifland bore S. W. the ex-
tremities of the continent from Cape Suckling W. by S. toN. E.
half E. didants leagues.
N. E. hazy weather. No land in fight.
Frefli gales, with rain. At 3 P. M. blowing very hard. At 7
a heavy fea, with the gale increafing from the N. E. and ei-
tiemely cold.
E. and E. by N. frefli breezes. At 1 1 P. M. it blowed very hard
and a heavy fea.
E. N. E. cloudy and hazy weather. About 3 A. M. the wind
fhifted to the N. Ilrong gales, heavy fqualls, and thick weather.
At I P. M. faw Kaye's Ifland, the S. end bearing N. W. by N.
diflant 10 leagues.
N. E. firocg gales, with heavy fqualls.
N. E. light airs with calms. In the morning the wind S. W.
thick hazy weather and rain.
S. E. light airs. At i o P.M. tvind N E. and to E. At $ A.M.
Southward and Eadward. At noon light winds from E. S E.
Light airs and calm. At 6 A. M. faw land, the extremities from
N. N. E. half E. to N. W. dirfamtofrfliore about 14 leagues.
Southward and Wellward ; a light breeze. Steering in for the
land to the Northward of Becring's Bay.
Variable, with light airs. At noon calm and hazy.
Weftward j a light breeze. Sent the long-boat on fliore.
N. E. blew (Irong, with heavy rain. Hoifted in the long-boat.
S. E. At fun-rife E. and E. by N. At noon light winds ; theex-
tremities of the land from N. W. to E. S. E. diftant from (hore
10 leagues.
F)
A P P E N D X X.
TABLE VII. cmttnnd.
KouT£ rf thc\vn\GzmK,from Cook's River. /oNootka «r King Geoaoe'i Sound, sa tbt
N. W. Coast e/AM£RicA^
Tinu,
Latitude
North.
Lcn^itudt
Eaji.
Variat.
Eajl.
tVtnds, fVeatbir, and Remarks.
1788.
-^"g- 3
Dtg, Min.
59 »o
59
10
II
12
»3
14
58 10 par Ac.
58 2
57 38
57 15 per Ac.
56 19{
55 a*
i)<'^. Mitt.
221 27
221 33
*33 »S
223 26
224 15
224
115 7 per Ac,
2:4 joperOb.
225 57
54 43
Dtg. Min.
227 37
. f N. W. n
L N. N.
- — <
_I
Calm at noon. At 3 P. M. a light breeze from tlie N. Weft-
ward. Saw Mount St. Elias bearing N. W. by W. about 10
leagues. Sent the jolly-boat for a very large bird on the water.
At i A. M. faw a fmoak ; ordered the jolly-boat to proceed
within a mile of the fhore, to fee if there was any appearance of
inhabitants, and dropped anchor. The boat returned.
The place where the fliip lay called Tianna's Roads.
W. S. VV. pleafant weather; at noon cloudy. The extremities of
the land from W. S.W. to S. E. half E. Cape Fair Weather
N E. by N. and Crofs Cape S.E. by£. diflont from theneareft
land 4. miles.
Light breeze from the S. W. cloudy. Saw iflands of ice in running
in for Crofs Sound.
Moderate and fair. In the afternoon nmning along the fliorc
to the Eaftward ; the extremities of the land from W. S. W. to
S. E. by S, off fliore 3 or 4 miles.
W. moderate weather. At z P; M. faw the appearance of a
bay. At noon hazy. The bay we left in the evening bearing
E. off fliore 1 leagues.
(Weftward ; a frefli breeze and fair weather. At noon Mount
Edgecombe bore N. W. by W. half W. and the extremities of
tljeland frem N.W. half W. to E.S.E.diftant offfliort 4 miles.
r Weftward ; a bride gale. At » P. M. faw the appearance of a bay
i . vbearing N. N. E. At noon the extremities of the land bore from
t N. N W. half W. to E.S.E. diftant about 8 or 9 leagues.
Northward and Weflward ; a brilk gale. At 3 P. M. faw Cape
Adamfon, which lies in 55° iJ' N. and 226° 4'Ea(li and
Cape Barnett, which is in 55° 39' N. and 226° 4' E. At an>
chorin Sea Otter Harbour.
Hazy, with rain. Cutting wood and watering.
Exploring the head of the ftraits. At g P. M, (leered through the
mouth of theftraits ; Cape Barnet bearing S.W. by W. half W,
and Cape Ailamfon S.by W. halfW. At noon Cajie Adam-
fon bore N. W. by W. and Cape Barnett N. W. PaflTed an
ifland which was named Douglas Ifland, lying in 540 58' N.
and 226" 43 'E.
W. a fteady breeze; clear weather. At i A. M. a ftiffgale.
thick foggy weather. At 9 A.M. Douglas Ifland bore W.
by N. half N. At noon land bore from ii. by M. to N. W,
byN. Oft' fliorc 4 lea^^ues.
'/ .'
A P P E N D IX.
TABLE VII. continued.
]t.ouTE »/ tbt IPHio£NiA/r»m Cook's River u Nootka, «r Kino George's Sound, «m ihi
N. W. Coast of America*
Time.
fflnJs, Weathtr, and Rtmarks,
1788.
Aug. IS
21
22
«3
as
s6
*7
i);;. il/jn.
54 S»
54 6
53 55
51 4<pcrAc.
49 42
Deg. Mm.
237 54
228 4
229 30
232 38
Dtg. Min.
-(
-{
1
(
N. W. firft part a brilk gate. At 3 P. M. dropt anchor in Port
Mearet. Latitude of the fliipt at anchor 54° 5 1 ' and by Tevcral
obfervationi of the fun and moon the longitude was as)* J4'<
Renuined in Mearet's Bay tilt the a 1 It.
At 3 P. M. weighed anchor and flood to Tea, at S. E. with a
frefli breeze from the Wcllward. At noon the extremes of
land bote from E. by N. half N. to W. by S.
Wellward ; a (leady breeze. At S P. M. failed round a tow point
of land, which was named Point Roft, lying in 54' iS' N. la-
titude, and in aiS* 39' E. longitude. At 9 P. M. dropt an-
chor 3 or 4 mites from the ifland; the extremes of which bore
from N. by W. to S. E. by E. half E. At *> A. M. weighed
anchor. At noon light winds, calm, and cteai ; the extremes
of the idand bore from N. N. W. to S. half E. diftant 3 or 9
leagues ; the continent from E. by S. to N. N. E. diftant 9
leagues.
Variable; light winds. At 9 A. M. by j obferved diflances of
the fun and moon, the longitude was a30° 16' K. tlie extreme*
of the continent bore from N.W. by N. half N. to E. by S.
N. W. to S. S. E. At midnight a thick fog, with rain.
Weftward ; tliick and foggy. At noon windS. with a thick fog.
Light winds. At It P. M. wind Ihifted to W. andclear weather.
At fun-rife faw land, bearing N. E. by E. diliant 10 leagues.
At 10 A. M. wind N. W. and encreafed to a (Ironggale. At
half pad 9 A. M. got feveral diHances of the fun and moon,
which made the longitude 331'* 38' £. At noun a ftrong gale,
(leering E. N. E.
N. W. a ftrong gale. At 7 A. M. Captain Monrcscame off in a
canoe, with fome of the jiatives, and piloted us into Friendly
Cove, where we rcRiained till the a7tbOi5lober.
'.\':
TABLE
' ■if
■i- fir
Si
\'V^
1
f1t~-*>*
-m^
)K<«^iM*l4''4u«
A P P E N
X,
u V T ABLE VIII. •
RonTE«/'</;«Ii>HiGENiA(i«</N. W. AMERICA Schoonev, /•»« NooTK A, «»• King GEoacE'i
Sound, <« <i&« Sandwicii-Islanus.
Time.
Latitude
North,
Longitude
Eaji.
1788,
Ofl. 27
88
30
3«
JVw. I
S
6
7
8
9
10
II
12
»3
14
»S
16
17
Dfj^. iW;«,
49 3
48 13
47 39
45 38
4i 50 per Ac,
46 8
45
8
44 ij per Ac
43 5»
42 51
4« 57
40 5t
40 6
39 29
38 49
37 55
36 50
35 22
jj 51 per Ac.
S3 »5
3* 46
232 26
231 28
230 13
229 28
229 36
229 48
228 44
229 4
229 33
230 34
231 I
229 50
228 50
227 45
226 51
225 37
222 32
220 35
218 42
217 38
216 39
Variat.
Eaft.
fVlndt, ffeather, and Remarkt.
Deg, M'tn.
-{
— {
— {
15 1 per Am.
— {
Eallward ; a light breeze. At noon nude a fignal for the N. W.
America to get under way. We were towed out of Friendly
Cove, to proceed on our way to the Sandwich Iflandt.
E.andN. E. by E. At 4 P. M. rqually, with hail. Moltofthe
night winds light and variable. In the morning wind S. E.
with fqualls of hail and rain.
Eaftward; Itrong gules and fqualls. At 7 A. M. a heavy Tea.
E.S.E. midcratcwind, with a heavy fwell. At j P. M. wind S.
At 6 A, M. wind N. Weftward. At noon N. W, a Aeady
gale.
N. W. frcfli gales and cloudy. At 11 A. M. wind S. E.
Southwani ; (Iron;, galci. At » A. M. heavy fqualls.
W. S. W. ftrong gales. At 9 A. M. wind S. E. and moderate
v.eather.
S. };. moderate weather. At t P. M. wind N. W. with a fine
fleady breeie.
S. W. by W. cloudy. At 8 P. M. wind S. and fqually. At la
wind W. S. W. } afterwards variable.
W. ftrong gales, and violent fqualls.
S. W. ftrong gales, and heavy fqualls.
S. W. moderate and fair. At 6 A. M. wind S. At S wind S.W.
Variable; light winJs, »vitji rain. At 10 P. M. wind Nortliwardj
frefli gales and clear weather.
N. W. moderate and fair. At midnight wind S. W.
S. E. light windsand pleafantweatJier.
S. E. toN. E.pleafant.
N. and Eaftward; moJeratc breezes and cloudy.
N. E. a (leady breeze. At 8 P. M. got Icveral diftancesof the ftar
Aldebaran, and the moon, which made the tliip in 114* aj' E.
Eaftward ; frcfli breezes and cloudy, witli flying fqualls of rain.
Eaftward ; frelh breezes and fqually.
From S. E. toS. W.and N.E. Firit and btter parts frefti breezes
and cloudy ; middle part light winds, and flying ftiowers of
rain,
N. E. toW. moderate and cloudy.
A. M. calm. At 1 1 A. M. a
ward.
At 9 P. M. fqually. At t
light breeze from the South-
APPENDIX.
T A B L £ VIIL eoHtmueJ.
fioVTt i/lbtltniOMfiHi and S.W, Ahzhica. Schooner, /r«m Nootka, tr KiHO Gxohoe'i
SOUKD, to tht SANDWICH-ISLANDb,
TTmr.
Latitud*
North.
LoHgttud*
Far'iat,
Eqft.
ffliids, ff^tathtr, and Remarks.
178S.
Nov, 18
, ao
32
"3
04
«S
•a6
a?
28
a9
30
D^r. I
*
3
4
5
■Deg, Min.
3* 41
30 25
29 34
29 6
28 41
28 26
28 28
9.7 56
a? 37
26 36
24 57
25 »7
«s 13
25 o
24 ai
22 57
21 59
Dr;. Jlf;Vi. 1
ai5
8
ai3
213
312
39
9
18 «
210
42 .
209 40
209
31
310
3
209
23
203
20
207
206
12
10
207
30
208
48{
208 28
208 16
207 36
205 3()
—
—
■■-
Drg. Min.
II 11 per Aiin.
It *o per Am.
— {
{Southward ; light winds, with rain. At midnight variable, with
heavy Tqualls of wind and rain. At a A. M. wind N. N.W, a
fr«(h gale, with lightning. At noon fair.
Northward ; a Ready breeze and cloudy.
Southward and Eaftward j moderate and cloudy.
S. S. E. pleafant.
S. S. E. moderate and fair;
r S. S. E. frelh breezes; fqually, with rain. Saw feveral gulls
L and a grampus.
{S. Eaflward; frefli gales; fquuUy, with rain. At S. A.M. wind
S. s. w.
S. W. frefb, with fqualls. In the morning moderate and calm.
A number of boobies flying about the (hip.
{Southward; moderate and fair. In the morning wind S. E«
and fqually. ., ^ ■'
S. E. moderate and cloudy.
5. E. and S. E. by S. fre(h breezes and fqually.
Wind and weather as yeflerday.
6. S. £. and S. by E. At midnight it blew a frefh gale.
8 toper Ai.
10 14 per Am.
\ S. and S. by E. moderate and cloudy.
^— — - Southward; light winds and cloudy.
— ^— S. S. E. and E. S. E. light winds, and pleafant weather.
9 54 per Ai. E. and E. S. E. frelh breezes.
— — E. S. E. frelh breezes.
(Frelh gales and cloudy. At midnight rain. At i A. M. fqually.
At day-light faw Owhyhee, theW. end bearing S. S.W. three
quarters W. diflant 9 or i o leagues. Mowee W. diftant 7
leagues. At 10 A. M, off the illand off Mowee.
TABLE
i \k
tv
■mtmi^'i
.jgUii^mSf*^ ''-"
APPENDIX.
TABLE IX.
^J
RovTi tfth* Iphioinia mi N. W. America Schooner, atthi Sanowich-Iilandi.'
77m*.
Latitudt
North,
Longitude
tap.
1788.
Dec. 7
8
9
10
20
Dig. Mil.
20 21
22
83
24
*5
a6
27
a8
19
«9
44
35
20 36
Z)/^, Miti,
Variat.
Eafl.
JVlndi, fVcathtr, and Remarks,
Deg. Mm.
20 48
! Variable; light winds and rain. At noon light wind*. The ex-
••vniej of Owhyhee from S. E. by E. to W. S. W. diiUnt off
... ,e 3 leagues,
r Variable ; light winds, with cloudy weather. A great number of
\_ canoes came off from Toe-yah-yah Bay.
Light winds off the land. At a A. M. a heavy rain, with
thunder and lightning. At noon the extreme* of Owhyhee
bore from S. S. E. to N. by E. Off fliore 4 miles.
' Light winds. Off Owhyhee. At 1 A. M. dropt anchorin Ka-
rakakooa-bay, where we remained till the aoth.
Light breezes from the land. Weighed anchor and flood for an
offing, when a heavy fquall came on from the Wellward ; af-
terwards moderate weather,
S. W, moderate and fair weather. At fun-fet the extreme! of
Owhyhee bore S. E. by S. to N. N. E. j or 4 leagues. At
noon a freib gale at S. W. Mowee bore S. E. half E. to N.W.
by N. ; the body of Tahoorowa S. W. half S. ; Morokenna
W.S.W. J Ranai W. half S. i and Morotoi W. N. W. half N.
diftant from Mowee 4 miles,
r Southward; a frefli gale. Stood for the W. end of *>Iowee.
I Dropt anchor in j fathoms and a half. The extremes of <Iowee
J bore S. E. by E. to W. half S. off (hore s miles ; More /.enne
I S. E. I quarter S, ; [the body of Tahoorowa S. 1^ E, and
L Ranai W. by S.
Variable; with fqualls of rain. Receiving water on board the (hip
Variable; light airs and calm. Receiving ditto.
Calm. At 4 P, M. light breeze from the land. Receiving ditto
r Variable ; light airs. Weighed anchor. At noon light winds,
\_ Mowee bore W. by N. to E, by S. Off (hore 4 or 5 miles.
{Calm; light airs. At noon in mid-channel, between Mowee and
Ranai.
" , E. a frefli breeze. At j P. M. made fail. At fun-fet the
extremes of Mowee bore E. S, E. to N, E. by E, ; the body of
Tahoorowa S. E, ; Morotoi N. E. by E. to N. W. by W. ; Ra.
nai S. I quarter W, to W. by N. Diflant from Ranai a miles,
ftanding between Ranai and Morotoi. At t A. M. a heavy
gale. Woahoo bore N. by W, toW. by N.'off fliore 4 leagues.
At noon heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, and violent
fqualls of wind from the Southward,
f
A
I
1.1
r!
APPENDIX.
TABLE IX. continued.
• RovTZ o/ihtlrHicEUW and N.W. Ams.kic\ Schooner, at the Sakdwich-Islandi.
Time.
1788.
Dee. 29
3»
1789.
Jan. I
" ' 2
/"■■' 3
•1 ■■* ■- 14
I' ;
■ 1; -
16
*5
Lmiiudt
North.
Lorn
ritudt
Var'iat.
Eajl.
IVinds, fVtathtr, and Ranarks.
Drg. Mill.
21 14
21 22
ax 23
Dfg. Min, Dcg. Mm,
— {
{Moderate. At 6 P. M. Body of Woahoo N. N. W. j Moi-otoi
E. N. E. Oil' a fine bay on the N. lUlc of Morotoi, where wc
liad 8, 7, 6, and j fathoms, 1 mile offfhore.
Moderate weather. Made fail for Woahoo. At fun-fet the ex-
tremes of Woahoo bore W. by S. to W.N.W. ; Morotoi S. E,
half E. to E. half N. At 8 A.M. fpokewith Captain Kimtcr.
At 9 A. M. failed for Woahoo. At noon Woahoo bore W.
to N. W. by N. 1 miles ; Morotoi E. S. E,
(Moderate and fair. Working round the S, E. fide of Woahoo.
At midnight a (Irong j;:ile. At day-light Woahoo bore N. by W.
to W. byN.otr (here 4 miles. At 9 A.M. clofe in with the (hore.
{Southward and Wcliward ; frelh brec/.cs, with rain. At 4 A.M.
wind Eallward, and clear, moderate weather. At noon dropt
anchor 3 miles from a village, and about > from a bay, which
the natives call Witetee Bay, on the S. E, lide of Woahoo.
InWitetee Bay.
In ditto, where we remained till theiotli, when Captain Fiinter
joined us, and wc both continued till the 1 1 th.
(Southerly j cloudy, with rain. At + P. M. we both weighed, and
flood eff between Morotoi and WoaluMJ. At noon Morotoi
bore E. half N. to S. W. lialt \V. otf fliorc 4 miles.
flhc gale continued till 8 P. M. when the wind (liiftuil to the
Northward, and brought moderate wcathci, with heavy rain.
At noon dropt anchor in Wiutee Bay.
In ditto.
'Wind from the land ; very heavy fqualls of wind and rain. ?tiiod
out to fca. At I in the morning in mid-c!utincl, hctwcen
Morotoi and Woahoo. At fun-rife the body of Morotoi bore
N. N. E.andRanai E.
"At fun-rife the extremes of Wo.ilioo bore N. W. by W. half W.
to W. by S. off (horc 4 or 5 le.igucs. At noon fa.v the
. itrhooner, W. half S. diftant 4 miles. Kept off and un th'i
I Illand of Woahoo till the 25th, during which time the an-
I chors were cut away.
{S. W..at4 P. M. with an appearance of a gale from tliat quarter.
At 5 P. M. weighed and ftood out of Witetee Bay. At day-
light dill within the point. The extremes of Woahoo E, by S.
to N. W. by W. off (hore 4 miles.
-■omsm' «<»^
*.^itmmhiix
A P P E N D I X.
t, T A B L E IX. continue J,
Route of iht Iphios-iha andN, W. America Schooner, at thi Sandwich Iilandi.
Time.
Latttudt
North.
1789.
Jm. 26
.' *7
aS
• 29
I'l-b. 19
23
Lonthude
Eajl.
Deg. Mil, D,-, . Min,
21
a6
27
s8
5'
19 56
. ,■ .;
\
Vu) tat.
EaJJ.
Winds, ircather, and Remarks,
Deg. Min,
r Light airs ,mJ calms. At fiui-Cct the extremes of land bore E.byS.
\ to N, iKillNV. Otr lliore j miles.
fS. K. a breeze. At j 1'. M. Atooi bore W. by N. half N. At
au>-ll(!ht it bore W. by N. to N, \V. by N. lialf K. 5 or 6
li'ai;ties. At noon iloudy. The S, E. point of Atooi bore
W. by N, 4 or 5 leagues,
{Variable; fijually with rain. At noon Atooi bore N. E, by E,
half !•:. to N. W, half w'. Oneeheow \V, half S.
{Moderate and fair, Dropt anchor in Wymoa Bay at noon, where
we remained till the igth of February.
'a light breeze. At 1 P. M, got under way. At fun-fet Wy.
moa Bay bore N. E. During the night the wind was variable,
with li^'ht airs. At noon the N.W, end of Oneehfow bore
W. dillant 1 mile.
I N, Wedward ; fre(h breezes, with heavy fijualls. At noon the
\ high bluff on the S. W. fide of Oneeheow bore W. diftant
I 6 or 7 miles,
r N. W. Urong gales. At 11 P.M, hcwy fqualls. At 8 A. M.
•! more moderate. At 9 Ipokc with the fchooncr. At noon Atooi
I bore N. E. by N. to N. by VV. ililtaiit 7 leagues,
r Lit^lit plei. At 4 H. M. a nefli pale tVoiii the N, N. \V, In the
•{ morning the extremes of Woahoo bore I'roni K.N.H. to N.N.E,
I i!illant6or7 lc;iguc.s. At noon pairedtlieW. point of WiietceBay.
j' Variable; light winds. At 7 P. M, dropped anchor in Witctte
I Bay, where we flaid till the 14th,
fNVedward ; a frelh breeze. At fun-fet got under way, in com-
I pany with the fchooner. At day-light the S. \V. end of Ranai
J bore v.. by '->. ; body of Morotoi N. E. ; \Voahi;o N. W. dif-
I fant 8 or 9 leagues. At n( on Ranai bore from N. by E. half E.
I to E. byN. half N. dilKuit 5 le.i.;ucs,
r W.S.W. lirH and middle part a fine breeze ; the latter part calm.
J At day-light tlic cMremes of Owhyhee bore from N. E, by N,
L to S. E, by E. dilt.iii' 7 or i leagues.
{IJght airs and calms. At fun- let the body of Mowee bore N.half \V,
At noon the extremes of Owhyhee from N.E.byN. toS. lubyl'!.
dillant 7 or 8 leagues
C Li^ht airs and calms. At noon Karakakooa Bay bore S, E. half S,
\ didant 8 or 9 leagues.
APPENDIX.
TABLE IX. eoutirmed.
RovTB »f tbt IPHioiMiA aud N. W. America Schooner, attht Sandwich Ilandi.
T/Mf.
Latitud*
Ntrtb.
March I
f)
3
9
lO
11
12
>3
"4
«5
i6
*7
20 6
Ltnrilude
a/I.
Fatlai,
EaJI.
Dtg. Mill, Deg. Mim,
fVindt, PFtathtr, and Rtmarks,
20 31
-(
f Variable | light ain and calms at limn. At Tun-rire Owhyliec
J bore from N.N.E, half E. to S.S. E. off there 6 leagues. At
^. noon the current had fet lis to the WefiwarJ, about 1 o leagues
I from the Owhyhcc fliore.
Firft part light ain and calm) latter, a pleafant breeze, and dear
weather. At noon Owhyhte bore from N, half W.toS.K. by S,
diftant from the Ihore s leagues.
{At 4 P. M . drept anchor in Tirowa Bay, where we renuined till
the f th. The latitude of the fliip at anchor was 19* 41 ' N.
r A breeze off land. At midnight got under way ; and at noon the
i E, end of Mowee bore N. E. by E. half E. ) Tahoorowa from
I N.byE.toN. W.halfN.
r A frelh trade wind. At day-tight Woahoo bore from N. by E.
1 to N. W. half W. At 6 A. M. wind variable j heavy rain.
^ At 1 1 dropt anchor off Witelee Bay,
Light air* and variable. Off ditto.
r Frefh breezes, with cloudy weatherand rain. At 1 A. M. made
J fail for Atooi. At day-light Woahoo bore from E. by N. to
I N. N. W. half W. diflant j leagues.
{N. N. E. a frefli gale.At midnight dropt anchor a miles E. of llie
anchoring ground, off Atooi.
Light winds, and variable. Off Atooi.
t Wind off the land. At i P. M. got under way for Oneeheow.
A At noon the extremes of Oneeheow bore from N. half E. to ,S.
V Off fliore 4 miles.
Frefli breezes off Und. Off Oneeheow.
OffOnecheow.
TABLE
A P P E N D I X.
TABLE X.
HovTzc/ iLth'HiozsiAand'N, W. America Scliooncr, /r«m//fr« Sandwich-Iilandi, u
NooTKA, or Kino Georcl'* Sound.
Time,
1789.
March 18
*9
30
21
22
^3
84
a5
16
27
z8
29
30
3»
April I
2
3
4
5
' ■■' ' 6
8
9
Latitudt
North. I
DegT^Min.
22 31
»3
24
26
27
27
28
29
31
3«
3^
33
33
34
35
37
49
8
5
Si
S6
54
8
56
58
4«
31
21
LoHtitudt
EaJI.
Deg. M'tn.
198 54
197 16
197 16
197 16
196 51
fariat.
Hinds, H^caihir, and Rtmarii.
36 9 per Ac
36 19
36
37
38
39
10
3«
56
D«j. Alin.
— {
i ]4 p<r Az.
196
37
»97 49
>99 34
200
««7
200
S8{
ZOI
»9
201
47
202
40
204
10
— {
41 36 per Ac
205 56
208 15
210 13
2»3 »3
215 4«
218 22
220 13
N. E. At Tun Tft made riil i the extremes of Oneeheow bon from
E. half N. to N. N. E. Jirtmt \ I eagues.
(Moderate and fair. At j A. M. f.tw land. At 4 pretty clofeup
with ii. At day -tight thi> ifland or rock, which bears the
form uf a faddle, was named Bird Ifland) it lies in tiie Utitiids
of ij" 7' N.and 198* lo'E.
N. N. E, pleafant weatlier,
Frelh trade winds, with rqiialU of rain.
Cloudy, with rain, and much lightning. ]
Pleafant breezes and fair.
N. N. E. a Heady trade wind.
(Moderate and cloudy w-e«ther. At midnight the wind drew round
toE.byS.
E. moderate, and cloudy weather.
S. E. moderate, and hazy weather.
E. light winds, and fair weather. Several gulls flying about
the fhip.
11 46 per A 1.1 Eaflwardi light winds and pleafant weather. ^
II 18 pcrAm r
__ Light airs and calms.
{Variable} light winds. At 10 P.M. windN. E. A number
of birds flying about the (hip.
r N. E. moderate and cloudy weather. In the night, wind variable,
\ with fqualls of rain.
^_^ SqiuiUy, with rain.
{I'irll and middle parts moderate and cloudy. Latter part wind
S. S.W. afrefhgale.
iWertward i a fredt gale. At half pad 1 P.M. got feveral fets of lu«
nar obfervations j by their medium the ftiip was in- jc6 ' 4' E.
. Northward ; (Irong gales with heavy fqualls. Numbers of birdi
'~^^ \ flying about. Saw fome rock weed.
,___ Northward and WcDward ; ftrong gales, with hravy fqualls.
{Found the current had fet us 10' by D, R. to the Northward of
our latitude by obfervation.
{Frefli gales and fqually, with rain. Thefe 14 hours our reckon*
ing difli^red »o miles from our obfervation,
_^i_ S, frelh breezes and cloudy.
12
.1
In
APPENDIX,
sr-j
TABLE X. cvntinued.
Route of thtltHiOEViA and U. W. America Schooner,/ram tht Samd wich-Iiland»
(« NooTKA, «rKiNo Gegroe's Sound.
Time.
Latitude
North,
Longitude
Eaji.
Fariat.
Eafl.
fVindt, Weather, and Remarht
1789.
April 10
II
la
>3
14
»5
16
»7
t8
19
20
D/^. Min.
^l 16 per Ac.
41 4a
4» 35
43 o
44 »5
46 5 per Ac,
47 53
49 7
49 44
49 37
Deg. Mm.
S22 3
222 34
223 59
225 13
azo 42
Z28 6
228 4
230 o
231 23
Deg, Min.
17 4 per At.
— {
{Variable, with rainy, hazy weather. At 10 A. M, wind N. with
a heavy gale.
Strong gales, with h.-izy weather.
W. N. W. heavy fqualls At 5 A. M. a perfeft hurricane^
At 6 P. M. moderate.
S. Weftward ; moderate and hazy.
{Firft part light winds. Middle and latter, a frefli breeze, with
fog and rain.
{Strong gales, with hazy weather, rain and hail. At? A. M. got
onediftance oCthe fun and moon. Longitude xa8* 4'.
S. E. moderate and hazy.
Variable, with frequent (howers of hail. Saw the Coaft of Ame>
rica, extending from N. Iialf E. to E. N. E. dillant lo leagues.
(Light winds and variable, with cloudy weather. At fun-fet the
extremes of land bore from N. W. by N. to E. half N. diftant
10 leagues. At noon calm; Land from N. W. by W. tO'
E . half S.; the entrance of Nootka N. 7 j " K. difiant S leagues.
J. At 1 1 A. M. dropt anchor in Friendly Cove, where we were de-
I tainedtillthe ift of June.
T A B I, E XI.
Route of the IPHlciNiA/r»m Nootka, or King George's Sounjj, a fecond Time, it the
Sandwich Islands. . •
1789.
Deg. Mm.
Deg» Min
Jmui
a
Z
50 4»
330 29
4
51 33
229 37
Deg. A/in
Northward. At Am-fet Nootka Sound bore N. half W. dift.int
{iMor
7 or 8 leagues.
f At neon thick hazy weatlicr. Nootka' Sound bore N. E. half E.
\ difTant 14 Ieag\ies.
fS. E. frefli breezes and hazy. At fun-fet Woody Point bore N.W;
by N. diOant 1 leagues; and the Wefternmoft of Lance's Illands
N. by E. diftant 5 leagues.
J. S. W. light winds, fair weatlier. At 7 P. M. the Wefternmoft
J of Lance's Ifland bore E, by S. At noon Cape St. James bore
\^ W. by N. diftant 16 or 1 7 leagues.
N b I X.
TABLE XI. continued.
RouTE«/'M«IpHioEMiA/r«MNooTKA, «r KiKc Geo&ge's Sound, o fccond TttHI, itibi
Samowich-Islakdi.
Timt.
Latiiudt
North.
Ltnr'itudt
Eaji.
Farlat,
Eefl.
fFinds, fVtatber, and Remarks.
1789.
June 5
,:. ;■ 6
7
to
»9
20
zi
2Z
a8
Dig. Min.
52 J3 per Ac
54 7 per Ac.
54 45
54 46
Deg, Min, Deg, Min.
228 27
229
229 15
229 12
-(
S. W.. firft part fair weather. At fun-fet the Southern extremity
of Prince William's Ifland bore W. half N. la leagues. At
fun-rife the extremes of Clurlstte's Ifland bore fromW. N. W.
to W. by S. diftant 1 leagues. At noon thick fog and rain<
S. E. (trong gales, thick fog, and heavy rain. At 6 A. M. faw
a number of fea-otters. At 1 1 ditto faw a fmall barren ifland.
breezes, hazy. At 3 P. M. out of fight of the ifland,
ounded with a number of fmall iflets and rocks. At
noon wind S. E.
Moderate and fair. At 6 P. M. dropped anchor abreaft of Fort
Pitt, in 54" j.S'N. latitude and 119° 43 longitude E. ; Cape
Farmer in 54' 35', aag" 16'; Cape Murray 54" 43', 118' 10
Petrie's Ifland 54* 4a', aa9<> zp'; and Mount St. Lazaro
in 54" ja' and aSo" 56' E.
)rs. W. a thick fog. At 6 A. M. the extremes of land bore from
Queen Charlotte's Ifles from S. S. E.
a leagues. At noon hazy. Port Meares
— {
r S. E. frefli
. I and Aim
^ nnnn urtn
{S.W. a thick fog. At 1
N. E. to W. S. W. i
toS. S. W. diftant 13
bore W. by N.
<4
226 39
-(
-{
' Cloudy and rain. At 7 P.M. dropt anchor in Haines's Cove j ia
latitude 54'' 57', longitude aiS" 3',where we (laid till tiiei9th.
S.W. cloudy, hazy weather. At half pads A M. weighed an-
chor. At noon the land from Cape Murray bore from N. E.
by E. to a high bliiffland named Cape Irving, which, with Cape
1 Murray, form'< the entrance of Port Meares. Cape Irving
N. W. half V . J Cape Irving lies in 54" 49'N.and aa7 ' 43JE.;
the J^. W. point ol (i^Charlotte's Ifland bore S. by W. half W.
1 a or 13 leagues.
{S.W, mode rate and cloudy. At fun-fet Charlotte's Ifland bore
fro.n N. E. half N. to W. by N. At 10 P. M. dropt anchor
oif M'Intire's Bay, which lies in 53 '" 58' N.and in aaS ' 6'E.
r S. E. moderate and cloudy. At 7 A. M. weighed anchor ; paf-
I fed Cox's Channel, between Q^Charlotte's Ifland and an iflan,
I off the N. W. end- of it.
Weftward j moderate breezes and cloudy. Sent fome men on fliored
Moderate and cloudy. At 6 A. M. weighed and flood acrofs the
channel of Beal's Harbour. At 1 0 dropped anchor in Beale's
Harbour, which lies in 54° i8'N. and in aa7° 6' E. wher«
we flaiJ tillthe a7th.
N, E. light winds. At 4 P. M. made fail, and fleered through
Cox's Channel. At noon the extremes of the ifland bore from
N. N. E. toE. S. £. half £. diltant 7 or 8 leagues.
«
•)';
E N
T A B L E XI. continued.
Route «/* tht IPHiCENiAyrfm Nootka, erKiNC Georoe's Sound, afecondTimt, itthe
Sandwich Islands.
Time.
Latitude
North.
m
•3*rt(
1789.
yune 29
30
July I
2
3
4
5
6
8
9
10
II
12
13
14
i5
16
»7
18
19
20
t8
»9
Dig. Miti.
S3 «6
52 26
51 10
50 «3
48 43
48 28
44 35
42 36
40 33
38 40
36 a6
34 50
33 7
31 22
29 z6
a? 31
26 2
24 26
23 16
20 51
Longitude
Eajl.
Variat,
Eajl.
IVinds, Weather, and Remarks.
21 5
225 30
225 46
225 53
225 41
325 54
224 17
222 50
221 25
220 8
Ofg. Mia,
_L
219
23
218
12
216
47
2IS
23
214
I
216
36
212
44
209
11
208
»3
207
10
— {
r S. E, light winds, with hazy, cloudy weather. At fim-rife Chv
\ lotte's Idand buar N. K. by N. diSant 17 or 18 leagues.
S. S. E, to S.W. moderate and cloudy.
Variable, with hazy, rainy, fqiially weather.
S. W. frefh breezes and liazy.
S. W. hazy weather. Latter part fqually, with a frefh brecz*.
Frelh breeze, with a thick fog. Latter part clear.
N. N. W. a (leady breeze, with fair weather.
Wind and weather as yefterday.
r N.W. frefli breezes. Pad a quantity of rock -weed. Saw feveral
i birds on the Ming, of tlie plover kind, Ibme whaleSj and a
I number of black ducks.
r S. W, and W. S. W. light winds and cloudy weather. Saw
\_ large quantities of rock-weed, and a number of birds.
N. W. frefli breezes, and fqually.
Moderate weather and cloudy.
N. E. a Heady trade-wind, and cloudy.
A Heady trade-wind, and cloudy.
Ditto.
{A (leady breeze end clear. In the morning got fevei-al fets of
didajMes of the fun and moon, the mean of which was 1 1 a° 58 '.
Pleafunt trade wind, with clear weather.
Light winds and clear weather.
Ditto.
N. E. to S. E. light winds. At half pid 9 A. M. by feve-
ral fetsofobfervations, the longitude was 106" jo'.
{Moderate breezes, with flying fqiialls of rain. At day-light
Mowee bore S.W. half W. diflant 13 leagues; Owhyhe*
S. W. by W. ag leagues. At noon the extremes of Owhyhee
bore from S. by E.lo S.W. diOant 16 leagues. Mowee W. by S.
f Pleafant brsezes, with fair weather. At fun-rife the extremes of
i Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S. half t. off (hore 1
I leagues; where we (laid till the 17th.
{Variable, light winds. Middle and latter pirt fredi trade. At
noon the extremes of Wokhoo bore froii' W. by N. to N.N.W.
diliant 4 or 5 leagues.
. E. N. E. a (leady breeze. At 4 P M. dropt anchor in Witetee
J Bay, in which, and amongft the other Sandwich IHandt, wc
\ (laid till the lath of Augud.
A P P EN D I X.
: Char-
c?e.
feverat
and u
Saw
Time.
17S9.
. 16
18
fcts of
si'.
y feve-
-light
hylie*
whyher
byS.
mes of
hore a
A«
• N.W.
Vitetee
tl»> we
TABLE XIL i
Route ofibe IrHiosviA/rom tht Sandwich Islands (« China*
30
3'
Stpt. I
2
3
4
5
Latitudi
Morth.
Ltngitude
Eaft.
Deg. Milt.
2 1 49
22
22
22
21
21
2(
6
l6
»9
33
8
»9
20
44
20
ao
21
21
19
33
22
»9
41
23
»9
28
24
'9
3»
a5
'9
53
26
20
26
-7
21
0
28
21
21
i' 35
21 36
n 4+
21 40
21 22
21 24
21 25
Deg. Mm.
195 21
'93 2
191 31
190 i3
183 57
187 30
185 40
183 40
181 44
180 4
178 36
177 26
»77 3
'76 35
175 38
«73 55
172 IS
167 50
166 31
165 i«
"164 41
163 3^
162 4
60 12
158 6
Variat.
Eaft,
Wtndt, fVtathir, and Remarks,
Dcg. Miu.
1
(
1
-i f n
£. N. E. a frdbti-ade wiiu^.
A (leady trade wind, and clear.
Light winds, and pleafant weather.
Ditto, and hot, fiiltiy weather.
Light winds.
Varying from S. E. to N. E, ,. . ?• - ,.
r Pleafant breezes and fair. At midnight lightning all round the
\ compafs. At 10 A, M. faw the appearance of land in the S. E.
'■ quarter i fhortly after faw large flocks of birds.
Cloudy } lightning as lall night. In the morning clear.
A Heady trade-wind. In the night heavy Ihowers of rain.
Pleafant breezes, and fair. ,
Light breezes, and fair. ' '
Light airs, with hot, fultry weather.
Ditto, and calms.
Variable ; light airs, with flying fhowers. j
Ditto, with calms, and light airs. ' '
Pleafant breezes, and fair, ' f
Moderate breezes ; hot and fultry.
(Light winds. At 3 P. M. got a fet of agronomical obfervations,.
which made the fliip in i6j* of longitude, being upwards
ofj'" a-head of account. At 6 P. M. law numbers of birds in
ttmks.
{Light winds, and cloudy. In the morning wind S, by E. with
flying fqualls of rain.
S. S. E. cloudy, with heavy fhowers of rain.
Variable ; light winds. At 7 P. M. obferved thedirtance of the
moon from tlie liar Antircii, weft of her; wliich made tlie Ihlp
in longitude 16^° 11'. At the fame time obferved ilie diflaiUL-
of the ftar Pegafus from the moon's remote limb, E. of Iri-,
which made the (hip in longitude 165' 10' E.
{Light winds, and fair. In the niglit heavy rain', with much
thunder .-md lightning.
Squally, with thunder, lightning, and he-ivy rain.
{Heavy fqualls of wind and rain, with peals of thunder, and m.uli
lightning. At 10 A. M. faw himd.'eds of birds flying about..
Fre/h breezes, Iqually, and cloudy. . ^ ; , ..
I
I'
i
li.f
APPENDIX.
TABLE XII. continued.
Route »f tbt IpHicENiA/r9M<^# Sandwich Islands r« China.
Tim*.
Lit'ttude
Nerib.
V
I
1789.
Sept. 6
7
t
10
XI
It
J4
>5
16
»7
18
»9
20
21
Deg, Min.
XI 17
21 5
a I ipcrAc.
20 49
20 12
Lonritudt I Fariat,
Eaft. Eaft.
Winds, fVtatbir, and Rcmarkt,
>=;
20
20 12
20 6
20 16
11 »i parAc
a* 33
tj 19 |wr Ac
22 48
21 47
21 3»
DegTalin.
156 18
»5+ 36
152 17
150 t
147 18
146 8
,;;■■,:»
»43 J3
141 8
138 26
136 13
»3S 9
134 35
133 57
»34 *5
134 20
«34 3
Z)^^. JIf/fl.
-{
— {
FirA and middle part fqually. LaUer, a Heady breexe from
the S. E.
Variable firll part. Middle and latter, fqually, with rain.
Frefli breezes, cloudv, and fqually. At 4 P. M. faw numbert
of men of war birds, and thoufands of boobies.
A frelb trade wind, with heavy fqualls. At 10 A. M. faw a
flock of geefe to the Weftward. Saw likewife a grampus.
Eaftward i a Ready -trade-wind. At 4 A.M. obferved the dif-
tance of the ftar Aldebaran from the moon's nearefl limb, which
made the (hip in longitude 147" 54'.
Fre(h breezes, and clear. At midnight faw the Volcano Grande,
bearing S.W. by W, diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At day-light made
fail for the 3 Iflands of Urac, yvhich bore W. byN.didantt
leagues. At i o A. M. got feveral fets of lunar obfervaiions,
by the mean of which the ihip wasin 146* t' longitude: at
which time the body of the 3 iflands bore W. half N. didant
s leagues. At noon the centre of the 3 iflands was in ao" 1 9'N,
latitude, and 1 46' 2 'H, longitude; UndtheVolcano in 19° jo'N,
' and in 146° 13' E.
Moderate and clear. At fi P. M. faw a barren rock, which we
called Guy's Rock; it lies in so" 30'N. lat. and 145* 5a' E.
longiftde.
Strong gales, fqually, with rain.
S. E. (Irong gales, with heavy fqualls of wind and rain.
S. and S. S. E. frelb gales and heavy fqualls. At 10 A. M. got
feveral diflances of the fun and moon, by the means of which
-the fliip wasin 136° 13' E. longitude. At half pad 10 faw a
reef of rocks under our lee, extending about j miles, in a
W. N. W. and E. S. E. direftion ; they lie in so" 37' N.
latitude, and 136* 10' E. longitude, and are extreoiely dan- .
gerout.
S. W. flrong gales, with rain.
S. W. ftrong gales, and heavy fqualls. \
Wind and weather as yefterday.
S. W. Firfl part fqiully, with rain. Middle and latter part clear.
S. W. moderate breezes.
Light winds and calms. For the Uft a4 hours • number of land-
birdt about the fliip.
APPENDIX.
TABLE XII. continued.
Route tfthilvmozTxiKfrom tht Samdwich-Islakdi t$ China.
Tmi.
Latitudi
Norih,
Loneitude
iaft.
Variat.
Eaft.
fVindt, fViatbtr, and Remarks.
1789.
Sept. 22
s6
27
28
29
30
OR. 1
a
3
4
5
Dtg.
21
Min.
28
21
30
21
29
21
32
21
i5
21
12
21
24
22
22
sr ■> •*
'
21
53
•
21
49
21
5*
No obfervat.
—
—
—
—
:-
' ■ ' .. ■.':'
Deg. Min.
132 50
131 27
>30 5 49
129 18
128 9
126 52
I2j 12
122 23
Dfg, Min,
— {
{Variable ; a heavy rain. Middle and latter parts a fteady breon
from the Eallward, with fair weather.
Squally, with rain.
S. S. W, light winds, and pleafant.
Ditto.
Firft and latter parts light airs. Middle, a fine brecxe from llH
Eallward.
A moderate breeze, and clear.
N. N. £. a Heady breeze, and pleafant.
N. N. E. a (leady breeze and clear. At half pad 7 P.M. bjr •
number of obfervations of the liar Antares, W. of the nMon,
by the mean of which the (hip was in 1 14* 1 1 'E.latitude { Bolol
Tobago Xima bearing S. 7 j* W. diftant 17 leagues.
{ Moderate, and clear weather. At noon the extremes of Pormola
\ bore from W. by N. half N. to N. W. by N. dillant 9 leagues t
Botol Tobago Xima N. E. dillant 7 leagues.
(Pleafant breezes, and fair. At fun-fet Formofa bore from
N. W. by N. to N. by E. diliant j leagues ; the rocks of Vele
Rete S. S. W. diftant 3 miles s Botol Tobago Xima E. by N.
half N. dillant 1; leagues.
Light breezes and lair.
{Frefli gales ; thick hazy weather, with thunder, lightning, and
hard rain,
r Strong gales and hard fqualls. At 11 A. M. got fight of tht
j Grand Lema, bearing N. W. diftant 3 leagues. At noon
the Grand Lema bore W. half S. diftant 3 leagues.
{Frelh gales j thick and hazy from the Eaftward. At I P. M.
came to in Macao Road, ^. ^^ ;. .,
{
» 1'
TABLE
AP^ENDIJt.
T A 1ft T. E Xm.
RovT£e/ihe N. W. America Schooner, /r«nNooTKA, «f KiNC Gborge'sSovnd tttbe
SandwicU'Ulands.
1
m-:
Latitude
North.
Lon^itud*
Eajh
,.SJ:.
17 ! 3* 49
i8
;i 40
19 30 28
20
29
JO
21
29
3
22
28
40
23
28
30
34
28
3»
*5
28
3
26
27
41
Deg. Min.
Farlat.
Eqft.
fVittdt, IVcaihtr, and Rtmarkt
iriOtt 'iiS.i
Deg. Mm,
'•frs». i\
— {
9 30
— {
E. S. E. fqiially, with rain and hail. Left Nootka Sound.
Ditto, with liard gales, rain, and heavy Tea.
S. E. andE. N. E. Tqually, with rain, and light brCMCt*
N. Wellerly j fqualty, with rain, and a high fea.
Variable; fqitally, and rain.
S. Eafterly ; Orong gales, fqiially, with rain.
Wind and weather as yefterday.
Variable ; light breezes, with fniall rain.
Variable; frcfh breezes, fqiially, and fome rairr.
S. Wefterly ; fqiially, frefli gales, and an high fea,
S. W. and S. W. by W. cloudy, with drizzly rain, and fqualls,
S, Wefterly ; moderate breezes, with a heavy fwell.
S. and N. W. by W. light airs, cloudy, and a heavy fea ; frelh
breezes and clear.
From W, N. W. to E. plea&it breezes and clew.
E. S, E. and S. E. pleafant breezes, light airs, and cloudy.
S. £. and N. E. light breezes and fair; pleafant breezes and
cloudy.
N. E.and N. N. E. pleafant breezes, and clomly.
N, E. pleaf^int breezes, and cloudy.
E. fqiially, with rain.
S. K. fqiially, with rain.
Variable ; fiefh breezes, thick and hazy, w itii IluxI rain, and a
heavy fwell.
Variable; modeiale breezes, with hard rain,, iind .1 lieavy fuell j
light airs, and cloudy.
From S. S. K. to N. E. fqiialls aud rain ; wiili mucii tliimtli'r and
lightning, and u high fea.
N. E. pleafant breezes, and cloudy, with fome rain. Saw a tro-
pic bird, a fea pidgMn, and Portugal men of war.
Variable ; frefh breezes, and cloudy.
S. Eafterly; pleafant breezes, and fair.
S. S. E. and ditto.
S. S. E. and S, E. by S. frefh breezes, fqiially, and rain
S. Wefterly; frefli breezei, ftrong gales, cloudy, and a heavy
fea.
S, Wefterly; fqually with rain, pleafant breezes.
S, Eafterly ; frefli breezes, and cloudy.
tbt
APPENPrX.
/. TABLE XIII. continued.
Route tfthc N. W. America Schooner, /r«M Nootka, arKiNO George's Sound u ibt
Sandwich-Islands.
Time.
id.
1788.
JVw. 27
28
29
Dec. I
1 Tquans,
fra; fre(h
oiidy.
ireezes and
riiin, anil a
leavy f"i.ll ;
tluintlcr and
Siiw atro-
LatUude
North.
Longitude
Eafl.
Variat.
EaJI.
ffliidi, fVcatber, and Rtmarkt
Dcg. Min.
z6 26
25 34
26
25
25
23
21
57
13
o
18
2
32
iJc^. M n. Dig. Min,
At the
ao
Smulwich
>9 34
Idands.
G, Eafterlyi freffi breezes, with rqualli of rain.
S.E. and S. E. by E. frcfli breezes, and cloudy.
{S.. E. by E. and S. E. by S. frefh breezes and cloudy, with liglit*
ning, and fqualls of rain.
S. S. E. frelh breezes and cloudy, with a heavy Tea.
Variable ; freflt breezes, and cloudy.
S. S. K. and b. by E. light winds, and cloudy.
Variable and S. Faflerly ; light airs and cloudy.
E. S. E. pleafant breezes, and clear.
S. Eafterly j frelh breezes, and feme fqualls of rain.
{E. S. E. (Irong breezes and cloudy. Mowee bore W, S. W. dif-
tant I o leagues ; Owhyhee S. E. diftant ■ 8 Icagu es
r Light breezes, and cloudy; oft' Mowee. At fun-fet Mowee bore
1 from S. W. by W. to N. W. by N ; Owhyhee S. E. diftant
^ 10 leagues. At fun-rife Mowee bore N. W. and W. by N.
I diftant 4 or 5 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore S.E. and
L \V. S. \V. dillant + or i leagues.
rLight airs ; hot and fultry. At fun-fet Mowee bore froi.i N. W.
\ byN. toW. S. W. i OwhyheeE. N.E. to S.W. by W. dillant
I 3 leagues. At day-light Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S.;
J Mowee N. W. by N. to \V. N. W. ; Tahoorowa W. by N.
dirt.tnt 3 leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from S. half E,
to N.E. OtFToe-yah-yah Bay. Mowee bore from N. by W.
toN.W. byN.
r Sr)nally,''with rain, and nuich thunder and lightning, and foggy.
J At fun let Cwlnhee bcre from N. by E. to S, by W. dillant
V 3 leagues. Scuiding into Karakakooa Bay.
rain
nd a heavy
TABLE
■ TS'>'
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV.
Route $/tht N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich-Iilandi.
Ttmi.
Latitudi
North.
Lonr'ttudi
Eaft,
Fariat.
Eaft.
fVinds, fVtaiher, and Remarks.
1788.
J>tc. 10
II
ai
22
Deg. M'in.
«9 35
20 39
a?
28
20 50
Deg. Min.
Deg. Min.
Variable ; liglit uiri, clear, hot and fiiltry. At Ain-retOwhyhre
bore from S. half W. to N. W. by N. dittant a league* ;
Mowcc N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. W. by W. At fun-rifr
Owliyheebore from S. by E. to N, dinani 4 or 5 miles. At
noon Owhyhee bore from N. N. E. to $. by S. difiant 4 miles.
Light breezes and fair. In Karakakooa Bay, wlicrc we remained
till the aoth. At noon the extremes of Owhyhee bore from
S. by K. half E. to N. N. W. half W.j Karakal.uoa Bay
E. by S. diOant 4 leagues.
S. fqualts and rain. At noon the extremities of Mcwec bore
from N. W. to S. E. by E. offfliore 3 le.igue$i the idand of
Ranai W. N. W. to W. by S. ; the idand of Morotoi W. dillant
I league ; Tahoorowa from S. S. W. to S. W. by W. diltaiit
3 leagues.
Fiefli breeze from the S. and W, and cloudy. Came to an an-
chor off the ifland of Mowee, i league from fliorc ; the extre-
mities of Ranai bore from W. by N. half N. to S. W. by W.;
Morokenne S. E. half E. ; the W. point of Owhyhee E. half S.;
the ifland of Tahoorowa from S. to S. E. by S. ; the ifland of
Mowee from S. E. by S. half E. to W. N. W. We remained
at anchor till the >6tli.
S. S. W. li^ht airs and calms. At fun-fet the ifland of Mowee
bore from E. by S. to N. W. half W. 10 leagues; Ranai
from W. by S. to W.N. W. diflant4 leagues; the extremities of
Tahoorowa S. and S. E. diflant j leagues. ; Owhyhee from
S. E. to E. S. E. diOant 1 j leagues. At noon Mowee bore from
E. S. E. to N. W.by W. diftant 3 leagues ; Morotoi N. W. ;
the extremes of Ranai from W. N. W. to W. by S. diftant 4
leagues; the extremes of Tahoorowa from S. by ^/. to S. S. E.
diftant 7 leagues -, the body of the ruck Morokenne, S.E. by S.
diftant 8 leagues.
S. E.— S. and W. S. W. frefti breezes :loudy, with fqualls and
rain, thunder and lightning. At fun-fct the extremesof Mowee
bore from E. S. E. half E. to N. by E. diftant 4 leagues;
the body of Morotoi N. W. by N. diftant 5 leagues ; Ranai
S. by W. and W. N W. diftant 4 miles; Tahoorowa from
S. by E. to S. E. diftant 9 leagues ; Owhyhee juft n li^ilit,
S. E. by S. diftant 10 leagues. At fun-rife the extremes of
Woahoo bore N. W, by W. diftant I leagues ; the extremes
of Morotoi N. E. by N. and E. diftant 6 leagues.
.1^
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. coHtinueJ.
Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at th* Sandwich Islanui»
Lathudi
Koi th.
Ltneltude
Eaji.
Fio tat,
Eojl.
/finds, (Feather, and Remarks.
' 30
31
1789.
Jan. 1
Deg. jWn,
21 17
21 26
31 26
21 S2
4
5
6
21 15
21 4
21 2
21 13
D/j. il/;'n
Deg. Mm.
r Light winds, turd rain, and much thunder and lightning. Atfun>
fet the extremes ui Woahooboic from N. N. W. to W. diftant
5 leai;iies. At liin-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore N.W, and
N. dillant 7 or 8 leagues ; Morotoifrum S. E. half E. to S. by E.
diftant 6 leagues. At noon light airs, and clear weather } the
extremes of Woalioo bore from S.W.by W. to W. by N. diftant
5 leagues ; Morotoi S. R. by E, and E. N. E. diftant? league*.
r \V. S. \V. plcafant, breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore
N. W, by W. and W. by S. diftant 4 or 5 leaguet; Morotoi
E. by N. and S. E. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At day.light Wo.
ahoo bore from S. W. by S. to W. N. W. diftant j leagues;
Morotoi E. S. E and E. by N. diftant 8 or 9 leagues. At nooa
Woahoo bore from N. by W. to W. diftant 3 leaguet ; Moro>
toi from E. by N. to S. E. by E. diftant 6 leagues.
f a. frefti breezes, and cloudy, with fome fqualls of rain. At noon
J the extremes of Woahoo bore from N.N. W. to E. S. E. dif.
t tant, olf ftiore, 1 or 3 leagues.
r S. and S. by W, fre(h breezes, and cloudy. At noon e ex*
J tremes of Woahoo bore fromN. N. W, to E. S. E. diftant off
V ftiore, » or 3 leagues.
C Light airs and variable. At 1 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear.
] At fun-rife the extremes of Woahoo bore from N. N. E.
J to E. by N. diftant 10 ot 11 leagues. At noon the S. point of
I Woahoo bore from E, by N. to N. diftant 8 leagues ; Morotoi
[^ £. S. E. diftant 15 leagues.
S. by E. pleafant breezes, and clear. At fun-fet the extremes of
Woalioo bore from N. by W. to E. by S. off^ ftjore 3 leagues.
At 1 A.M. light airs, and variable. At fun-rife the extremes
of Woahoo bore fromN. N.W. to E. S. E. off' ftiore 6 leagues.
At 10 A. M. pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the extremes
of Woahoo bore from N. by W. to N. E. by E. off ftiore
10 leagues.
'Variable J frefti breezes and clear ; light airs and clear. At noon
frefti breezes and clear —Still off" Woahoo.
Variable; pleafant breezes and clear. Still off Woahoo,
E. by N. pleafant breezes and clear. At noon the S. point ef
Woalioo bore E. byN. diftant 4 leagues. ••
1
■ J- \ \ \
Os
■\ .'i
■xS;J:
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. continued.
Route of tht N. W. America Schooner, »i tht Sandwich Iilandi.
i iv
Time.
Lutitude
So'th.
Loni^iiiide
yar'ial,
Eajl.
(finds, fVcathtr, and Remarks.
1789.
Jan. 7
lO&f II
II fff 12
13
«4
- ..• ^
IS
.-. iij I:
16
Dfg, Min.
21 12
20 51
22 7
if
i><;f. A/»>r.
-n ■
Dfg, Mk
— {
I
Variable ; plcafant breezes and clear. At noon the extreme* of
Woalioo bore from N. W. to E. N. E. clinanl 3 leagues.
N. K.— N. K. by N. ami N. N. K. frcdi breezes, cloudy and
f<iually. At fun-fet the extremes of Morotoi bore from
N. K. to E. by N, didant 8 or 9 'eagucs. At noon the S, I',
point of Woahoo bore N. by W. diltant 7 or 8 leagues.
N. N. K. and variable! frelh breezcj and clear. At fun-rife
the extremes of Morotoi bore from E. to E. by S. didant 1 1
or 13 leagues 1 the extremes of Woahoo from N. W. by W. to
N. E. by N. didant 3 leagues. At noon Woahoo bore from
N. W. to N. N. E. diftant 4 or 5 leagues.
Variable) light airs. Came to anchor off Woahoo, diftant i mile.
S and E. and S. light breezes, frolh gales and fqually. At j
P. M. weiglied anchor, in conijiany with the Iphijjenia. At
noon the E. end of Morotoi bore from S. W. to E. by N. dif-
tant 4 leagues,
E. N. E.to S.S. E. fiinallyand rain. At i A.M. the N. K.
extremity of Morotoi bore E. S. E. i Hood bdtween Mowee and
Morotoi. At noon the extremes of Morotoi bore from N. E.
to W. N. W. diflant 4 leagues; the S. E. point of Woahoo
W. by N. didant 7 leagues.
N. E. to N. N. W.— E. S. E. and S, S. E. frcfli breezes and raiu.
At fun-fc« Morotoi bore from E. half N. to N. N. li. didant
5 or 6 miles; Kanai S. E. by E. ; Mowee E. by S ; the
S. W. part of Woahoo N. W. by N. didant 7 Itaijues. At
fun-rife Woahoo bore from N. W. to S. W. by W. didant a
leagues; Morotoi E, ; Ranai S. E. by E, didant 7 org leagues.
At noon hauled round the S. W. point of Woahoo, and an«
chored in 10 fathoms, a miles offdiore.
S. fredi breezes and cloudy, with drong gales and fqualls, and a
heavy fea. At 11 P.M. weighed and dood to fea, the gale
dill encreafmg. At noon the e.\trcmes of Woahoo bore from
W. by S. to N. W. didant 1 leagues ; Morotoi "from E. S, E.
to E. by N. didant 7 ort leagues.
W, S. W, and variable ; frcd> breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet
the E. end of Woahoo bore from N. half W. to N. N. W. dif.
tant 5 or 6 leagues ; Morotoi N. £. by E, didant 8 or 9 leagues.
At day-light the E. fide of Woahoo bore from N. N, E. to
W. N.W. didant » or 3 leagues. At noon the extremes of
WoaJioo bore from E. by N. to W, Off Wytetee Bay 1 league.
APPENDIX.
' ' TABLE XIV. continued.
Route $fiht N. W. America Schooner, at th$ Sakdwich-Iilanoi.
Time.
Latliutii
North.
LoHwliudt
Eaft.
1789.
Jan. 1 7
18
19
zo
Dtg, Min.'Deg. Aim.
Var'ial.
Eaft.
fVittdt, ffiathtr, and Remarh.
za
23
34
as
21 24
21 30
Dfg, MtH,
1
{
{
S. \V. by W. frefti bre<f/.ej »nd cluiidy. At Tun-iire ftreng'giles
and a lieavy fea ; Woalioo bore from W. half N. to N. N. W.
difldnt 4 or J lragiie.1. At noon wind at S. with fqualls and
rain ; the extremes of Woalioo bote from W, by N, to N. W,
by N. diliant 3 leagues.
S. S. W, ftfong gales and hazy. At day-light the extremes of Mo*
rotoi bore froni S. K. by E, to S. W. by S. didant 7 or 8 leagueit
fre(h brcc/ea an J clear. At noon the extremes of Morotoi bore
from S. K. to S. W. by W. diftant 1 leinjues ; the N. W. end of
Mowee K. S. K. diliant 4 leagues.
S. — S. W. and S. S. W. frelh breezes and fqiially, with flrong
gulls uli° the land. At day-light the body of Morotoi bore
S. S. K. dlllant 7 or 8 leagues. At noon Morotoi bore from
S. W. to S. by E. diliant 7 leagues.
Variable ; cloudy, and a ronllant, hard rain. At fun-fet Morotoi
bore from S. S. W. to S. E. byE. dillant4.oc5 leagues. At
I o A. M. Morotoi bore S. S. E. diflant 3 or 4 leagues.
Variable t frelh breezes and cloudy. At fun-fet Woahoo bore
from S. E, to W. by N. dlllant j or 6 leagues. Cloudy, and
rain ; at fun rife Morotoi bore from S. by E.to E*by S. diliant
t or 9 leagues. Light bna/es and rain. At noon Woahoo
bore from W. S. W. to N. W. by W. j Morotoi from E.
half S. to S, E. by S; diliant £ or 7 leagues.
Variable ; light breezes, hazy, drizzling rain. At fun-fet Mo-
rotoi bore from S, E. by E. to E. ; Woalioo from N. W.
to S. W. by W. half W. diftant » or 3 leagues. At day-light
cloudy and drizzling rain; Woahoo bore from W. halfN.
toN.byK,; Morotoi from E. byN. to E. by S. { Ranai
E. N. E. diliant 9 leagues. At noon hauled round the S. W,
point Woahoo intoWitetce Bay.
Wellcily ; light breezes and hot. In Witetee Bay.
S. K. light airs. In ditto.
S. a moderate breeze. At 5 P. M. got under fail. At fun -rife
Woahoo bore from W. to N. K. byE. j Witetee Bay N. N.W.
diliant 3 leagues. At noon Raniii bore E, by S. ; Mowee E,;
Morotoi £. by N. half N. j Woaheo from N. E. by E. to W,
by S. diliant, off fliore, 5 miles ; and Witetee Bay \V, by N.
diliant 7 miles.
k !
!■
■i
\\
I
\ 1
■«■■ i:
A P
N
X.
(
iii
^
TABLE XIV. continued.
Route */ tbt N. W. America Schooner, at tht Sakowich Tilahdi.
Tim.
Lslitudt
Nirib.
LtHglludt
Eaji.
Vat'tau
EaJi.
ninds, fVtathir, and Remarks,
1789.
a?
18
*9
30
Deg, Min,
21 14
' • I
21 8
at 14
21 27
Deg. Min,
3»
21 30
Dfg. Milt.
I
'S, S. W. light airs and calms. At fiin-fettlie extremes of Woahoo
bore fruiM N, N. W. to W, otf Ihure a leagues. At noon a
lii;lit breeze t'rom the S.i the inand of Ranai bore from E, by S.
toK.j Moueo K. hiilf N. to E. N. K. half E- i Morolol
E. N. E, quarter E, to N, K, by E. tlillant 5 leagues ) Woa-
hoo from N, N. W. to W. by N. diftani 4 Ica^jues.
S, pleafant breezes, and cloudy. At fun-fct Woalioo bore from
W. by N. to N. W. off fhore 3 leagues 1 Ranai E, S, E. i Mo.
rotoi E. N. E. and the body of Mnwee K. dillant 1 1 leaguci.
Light breezes and fair at fun- rife, Woahoo from N. W. by N.
to W, by S, off Ihore s leagues,
■E. cloudy. At fun-fctWoahoo borefromW.N.W. halfW.toN.E.
half E. off ftiore a leagues. Co idant drizzling; rain ; at fim-rife,
Woahoo bore from N. N. W. to N. E. off Ihure^ leagues At
noon frelh breezes and fqually ; Woahoo bore from N.W. by N.
to N . E. by K off' (hure 6 leagues.
■Variable ; frcfli breezes and cloudy, with a heavy fwell. At fun-
fet Woahoo S. W. point E.\ Witetee bav K. by N. Al
fun-rife Woahoo N. W. point N. N. W. the W. point N. K.
by K. and the S. W. point K. by S. off Ihore 2 leagues. I-i^ht
airs and calms ; al noon Woahoo bore from N.W. byN. to K,
off (hore j leagues.
■Variable; light airs, ,ind pleafant. At fun fet the extremes of Wo-
ahoo the N.W. point N. byW. half W. to the S. W. point, K.
off (hore 1 leagues. At fun -rifeWoahoo bore from N.E by t.to
S.W.by S.ufflliorej leagues. At noon the N. W. point of Woa-
hoo bore from N. by E. to the S. W. point S. E. by t . half E,
off lliore 1 leagues.
N. variable, and N. N. E. moderate breezes and fair. At fun-
fet the N. W. point of Woahoo bore from N. by E, to E. N, E.
off Ihore 1 league. At fun-rife the N. point of Woahoo bore
from E. by N. to S. K, off Oiore 7 or ( leagues ; Atooi in light ,
bearing from W. by N. to W. by S. diOant 16 or 17 leagues.
At noon Woahoo bote from £. N. £. to S, E. by E. off (hore
1 or 3 leagues.
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. eontimuJ.
RouTK »/tht N. W. Amirica Schooner, at ihi Sandwich Iilandi.
Tlmt,
LaiititJt
Sorth.
1789.
Feh. I
Deg, Min,
21 44
21 29
3
31
3»
4
21
36
5
21
la
21 19
»9
20
91
22
(iM.
21 52
ai 25
Ltntitudi
Farial,
Eaji.
ff^inJs, fVtathtr, and Rtmatks.
Deg. Min.
21 14
Dtg. Afin.
N.K, by K.vuriable, and E.by S, frefh bren«> and fair. At fun-fet
Woahoo bore from N. E. by K.to S. K. by E. dillint from the
N, W. point about 4 miles. At day.light the N, point of Wo»-
Ihoo bore E. N. E. t the N. \V. point S. E. half E. off fliore a
miles. At noon the N. point of Woahoo bore from N. E.
liiiltE. tothe N. N\'. point S.offJhore 4 miles.
f W, N. W. light airs and cloudy. At day-liglit Woahoo bore from
^ N. by W. to E. by N. off (here 3 leagues. At noon Woahoo
^ bore from N . N. E, to S. K. by E. off (hure 3 leagues,
Eaftward ; a light breeze. Off (hore at W oahoo .
W. light airs and plcalant. Off ditto.
N. E.by E. and K. N. E. frclh brce/.cs and fair. Off ditto,
C Pleafant breezes and fair. At 8 A. M, bore away for Atooi. Al
i noon Woahoo bore from E, S. E. to N, by W. off (hore 1
I league,
{Light breezes and fair. At 10 A. M.faw the Iphigenia off Wy.
moa Bay. At noon dropt anchor 1 cable's length from the
Iphigenia, where wc remained till the 1 9th.
'"S. E. and variable! lii;ht breezes and condant rain. Weighed
and made fail. At fun-let .\tix)i bore from E. by N. to N. W.
by N. i Wynioa 'town N. by E. diltunt 7 or 8 miles; the K.
end of Oneheeow from W. by N. to W. by S. diftant 6 or 7
leagues. At noon the E. end of Unchecow bore from N. by E,
to W. by N. diliant 4 miles ; Tahoorowa N. W. by N. dilUnt
4 leagues.
N. N. K. (Irong gilcs and fiiiwlly. At fun-rife the E, end of
Oneeheow byre from N. by E. to N. W. by W. diftant 6 or 7
le.igues. At noon OiicIibcow bore from S. W. to N. W by W,
diftant 4 or j leagues,
N. W. ftrong gales and fqually. At fun-rife the N. extremity of
Oneeheow bore N. W. by N. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At noon
Atooi bore from N. N. E. to N. W. by N. diftant ^ or 6 leagues;
Oneeheow N. W. diftant 1 0 or 11 leagues.
■ N. N. W. moderate breezes. Ai day-l^^iit Woahoo bore from
E. by N. to N. E. by N. diftant 9 or 10 leagues. At noon
Witetee B.-iy E. by S. and tlie Northern extremity N. W, by N»
off lliore a miks.
^i
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. continued
VievTt $/tbt N. W. America Schooner, df <i!>f SANOwicH-IstANDs.
'ii
Jimt.
FeL 23
a4
aj
16
*7
a8
J^ch I
Latltud*
North.
Deg. Milt.
Leneitude
Far'iat.
Eafl.
Deg. Mill.
fFlnds, fffaiher, and Remarks.
20 26
'9 34
, li
19 24
'9 ^3
20 19
»"
19 46
D/'jf. Min.
Plearant breezes and fair. At i P. M. came too in Witetee Bay.
Pleafant breezes from the Welhvard. In ditto.
W. N. W. pleafant breezes. Athalfpaft 5 P. M. weighed, and
flood for Owhyhce. At fun rife the body of Woahoo bore
N.W. diflant 6 or 7 leagues; the E. end of Morotoi from
N. by E. to N, E. by E. diftant 3 leagues ; the E. end of Ra-
nai from E. byN. to E, diflant 4 or j leagues. At noon Wo-
ahoo bore N. W. by N. ; the W. end of Morotoi N. W. by N'.
the Eaflem extremity of Ranai E. by N. ; dillant 3 leagues ;
theS.W. extremity of MoweeE. by S.; and TahoorowaE. S, E.
W. N. W. pleafant breezes and fair. At fiin-fet Ranai Inire from
• N, W. by N. to N. diflant 4 leagues ; Mowee from N. by E.
toN. E. byE. ; Tahoorowa S. by E. At fim.rife Owhyhee
bore from S. E; by E. to N. E.by E. diflant j or 6 leagues ;
Mowee N. by E. half E. ; Tahoorowa N. halfW. ; Ranai
N. N. W. At noon Owhyhee bore from E. S. E. to N. K.
by E. diflant 4 or 5 leagues ; the Snowy Mo\mtains E. by S.
and E. by N. ; Mowee from N. by £. to N. N. W. diftant
7 or leagues.
'S. light airs and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from S. E.
to N. E. ; Monee N. N. W. diftant 7 or 8 leagues. At luii-
rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. by N. to S. E. diftant 4 or 5
leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from N. E.by N. to S. E.
quarter E. diftant 5 leagues ; Mowee N. diftant 8 or 9 le.tgiies.
(N. W. light breezes and fair. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from
S. E. toN. E. diftant 4 leagues. At day light Owhyhce bore
from S. E. half E. to N. E. diftant a leagues; Mowee N.
to N. by W.
fW. S. W. light airs, hot and fultry At fun-rife Owhyliee bore
I from N. N. E. to S. S. E. ; Karakakooa Bay S. E. diftant 5
^ leagues. At noon Owhyhee bore from E, N. E. to S. E. half
S. diftant 6 or 7 leagues ; Mowee from N. by E. to N. by W.;
Ranai N. W. by N. ; Tahoorowa N. N. W.
N. W. light airs and variable. At fun-fet Owhyhee bore from
S. E. to E. S. E. half E. diftant 8 or 9 leagues ; Mowee N.
to N. by E. half E. ; Ranai N. N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. by W.
At fun-rife Owhyhee bore from N. E. half N. to S. i- , half S.
diftant j leagues; Mowee N. N. W. diftant 10 leagues.
At noon Owhyhee bore i.om N. N. E. to S. by E. half E. ;
Karakakooa Bay S. £. diftant 17 miles.
IhK'
%.\'^
bore from
iMowee N.
N.byW.
V . half S.
leagues.
Iialf b. i
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. cotttmued.
Route of the N. W. America Schooner, at the Sandwich Islands.
Time.
Latitude
North.
Longitude
Eajl.
Vat'iat,
Eajl.
/finds, FFi'ather, and Remarks,
1789.
March 3
4
5
6
7
8^9
Dcj. Min.
Mill.
10
Dig, Mitt,
21
II
la
ii 23
W. S. W. pleafant ami fair. At 4 P. M. favv the Ipliigenia
coming into a Ii.iy, about 3 leagues to the Northward of Kani-
kakuoa liay. At half rail 4 V. M. came to in 20 fathoms, otV
Ifliore z iiilles ; the extremes of the laiiil from S. E. by S. ; the
N. E. en J of Karakakooa S. E. ; anil the neareft extreme
W. N. W. diflant 4 miles.
{Variable; light breezes ami fair. Off Owhyhce, near Karaka-
kooa Bay, wlicrc we (taid till the 6th.
f Moi!cr.ite fea breezes, and cloudy. Latter part plcafant land.
L breezes, and fair,
(S. and E. light breezes and clear. At 6 A. M. weighed anchor.
At noon the extremes of Owhyhce bore from N. to S. by E. j
off Toe-yah-yali Bay about 5 leagues. At 7 P. M. came to in
the Bay.
r Firft and middle parts plcafant fea-brcezes and cloudy. Latter
L pleafant land breezes. Off Owhyhce.
r Firft part frefli land breezes. Middle and latter moderat'! fca-
! breezes and cloiulv. At j i P. M. weighed anclinr, with the
<
._ T
Iphigenia, for Wcahoo, At noon iMowoe bore from N. E.
by N. to N. N. W. ; Tahoorowa N. W. by N. to W. N. W. ;
L Owhyhee E. by N. to K. S, K. diftant 1 2 leaiiiios.
K. a frefh trade wind, and fair. At li;n-fet the extremes of Ti-
hoiro.va bore from E. by S. to K. half N. ; the K. point of
Mowce E. b\ N. i Hanai from N. I- . by N. to N. N. \V. dif-
tant 3 leagues; the N. \V. point of Morotoi N. W, byN.;
Wcahoo N. W. by N. diliant i 2 leagues. At day li^ht Wca-
liooborc from N. by W. to N.W. by W. d'.lUnt S '.cagues ; the
N. W, point iif .Morotoi N. E. half N. At i.oun Woalioo 1,m le
from N. bv W, to \V. by .N. diliant 6 or j !e.i;^ucs ; Morud.i
from K N. K. t,i K. half S. ; Runai E. S. E. diliant 5 Icigues.
Light breezes and variable. At fun-fct Woahoo bore from
N. E. by N. to W. by S. At day-1'ght Woalioo bore from
E. N. E, to \V. .v. W. i^lfWitctee liay 2 loa;;ucs. At 9 A. M.
came to, in 11 falhoms, in Wii^ice liay, diliant 1 Uiile.
Stiually and r.i'.n. Weii'lii'd and made fail for Atooi, «iili t!ic
Illiigenia. At day-liglit Woahoo bore from E. N, E. tJ
W, N, W. off Ihore 3 le.ii;iies.
I
\
%h.
i
APPENDIX.
TABLE XIV. continued.
Route of the N. W. Amehica Schooner, at the Sanowjch-Islanus.
Time.
Latitude
North.
Longitude
Eajl.
Variat.
Eefft.
1789.
i6
Deg. Mm.
21 51
Peg, Mm
Deg. M.-n,
IVinds, IVeather, and Remarku
r N. N. E. frefh breezes and fqiial!y. At 6 P. M. faw Atooi
•j bearing N. W. by W, diOant 6 or 7 leagues. At daj -light
l- was towed into Wymoa Bay by the natives.
{Moderate fea-brecze and cloudy. At 5 P. M. weighed, and ftood
for Oneeheow. At fun-fet Atooi bore from E. to N. W. by N.
off (liore » leagues; Oneeheow from W. S, W. to W. half S,;
Orehiia W. by N.
r Moderate fea-breeze and cloudy. At day-light Oneeheow bore
J from E, to N. E. diftarit 3 leagues. At noon Oneeheow bore
from N. half W. to S. by K. half E. off (liorc 2 miles. At 5
P. M, came to, in 17 fathoms, abroad of a fmall vilhigc, called
Rotairj the E, end of Oneeheow bore from S. S. E. half E.
toN. half W.; Tahoorowa S. W.dillant 5 leagues.
Fredi breezes and cloudy. At half pad midnight made fail, and
dood to the Wcllward. At day light Oneeheow bore from
. E. to N. N. E ; Tahoorowa S. W. by S.; the Iiijiigenia 3
I leagues to Windward. At noon Oncdieow bore from N, K.
i to S. E, half E, off fliore 3 lc;igues.
m
m
m
TABLE
''■'akteiaiLJ^:-^
"i./
'I
N
, T A B L E
< 11
XV.
Route o/the N. W. America Schooner, /r«« the Sandwich-Islands ta the N. W. Coast
OF America.
1789.
Mirch 1 7
18
20
21
2Z
23
24
25
26
a?
28
29
30
3'
2
4
5
6
7
8
Latitude
North.
Dcg. Min.
22
27
23 2
23 37
24
26
27
27
28
29
31
3'
33
33
33
34
35
36"
35
36
37
39
49
6
8
57
56
56
5
54
o
32
43
34
19
»7
59
59
47
•9
Longitude
iaj}.
Fariat,
Eajl.
fVinds, fVeather, and Remarks,
Dcg. Mill. Dfg, Min
• Variable ; fredi breezes anJ cloudy. At Ain-fet Onccheow bore
fromN. N.E. to E. S. E. off (liore 1 leagues. At day-UglU
Oneeheow bore from N. E. by E. to S. E. by S. off (hore 2
Iragiics. At 7 A. M, Tawtlie Iphigenia, At i fpoke to her.
Variable j tVefh breezes and cloudy. At 6 P. M. Oneeheow bore
from N. by E, to E. N. E. diftuiit j leagues. At noon plea-
f.int breezes and clear.
'V. N. E. pleafant and clear. At 4 P. M. faw a fmall ifland
bearing W. N. \V. diftant 4 leagues. At fun-rife ditto N. W,
by W. diftant 2 leagues. At noon it bore N. by W, diflant
5 mil.'S.
Variable ; plcafuit breezes and cloudy. At fiin-fetthe ifljndbore
E. by N. diflant 5 or 6 leagues. At noon moderate breezeS|
and fine, pleafant weather.
E. N. E. frcfii breezes ar/i cloudy.
E. by N. pleafant brcc.;c.s ;,nd fair.
E. by N. to N. E. light breezes and cloudy.
N. E. and N. N. E. pleafant breezes and fair.
N. E. by N. to E. S. E. ditto, and cloudy.
E. S. E. pleafant breezes and cloudy. At noon hazy.
S. E. by S. ditto, and hazy.
S. E. by E. light breezes Hud h.izy.
EafteVly j pleafant breezes and fair.
Variable j light airs, inclinable to calm.
N. by E. to N. E. by E. light breezes and pleafant.
E. N. E. light breezes and cloudy. At 1 A. M. E. byS. light
breezes and fqually, with rain. At noon pleafa:!t.
S. E.— S. S. E. and S. E. by E. fqually, with rain.
S. to S. W. and \V. light breezes and cloudy, with fmall rain.
W. andN. N. W. frefli breezes and finally.
N. and E. N. E. flrong breezes, with hard fqualls of wind and
rain.
N. W. frcdi breezes, fqually, with rain.
N. Welierly, and ditto,
W. and ditto.
S. W, ftrong breezes and clear, with a high, following Tea. At
S P. M. fqually, with rain. At g A. M.conftant r»iOt At
noon light airs, and conltant raiu.
n
•APPENDIX^
TABLE XV. concluded.
Route tftht N. W. America Schooner, from //iitSandwich Islands <» the N. W, Coa$t
«/■ America.
3?i«*.
1789.
April 10
II
12
»3
14
16
»7
18
»9
20
21
22
2,3
«4
Latitude
North.
Diji. Mm.
47 48
48 28
47 Si
48 14
48 40
49 »5
49 34
Longitude
Eaji.
Variat,
Eajl.
1 Finds, ff'aither, and Remarks,
Dig. Milt,
Dcg. Min,
Varialile ; frcfli b1cc7.es and cloudy, with rain.
N. Eallerly ; (irong gales, with rain, and a high fca.
{W. N. W. and variable ; hard fqualls of wind and rain. Saw
fcvcral fniall birds.
{\V. N. W. moderate, fqiially, whh a liigh fea from the N. W.
At 10 A. M. faw a fea-lion and a fea-guU. Several birds
flying about tlie fliip.
Troiu W. to S. p'.eafant breezes ; hazy, with fniall rain.
{From S. byE. to S. W. cloudy, with fmall rain. At noon frcdy
brccjres and hazy.
/ From W. by S. to \V. by N. plcafant breezes and fqiially. Paf-
L fuig fqualls of r.iin, hail and fnow.
f Fioni W. N. W. to N. by E. frclh breezes, with hard fcjualls,
\ and fleet.
Variable ; light breezes and clear ; fqually, with rain.
Variable; light breezes, and fiuall, dri/.zling rain.
{Variable ; light airs, pleafant bieczcs and fair. Wild-gccfe,
(hngs, fea gulls, and gannets fccn.
IN. Weflcrly; fiefti breezes and clear. Paffed fome drift-wood,
and fca weed, and faw feverul whales.
{?. \V. fair, and pleafant. At noon the extremities of ;'c coart bore
from W. by N. to E. by S.; Noolka Sound E. N. E. diliant
9 or 10 Icagiics.
(S. E. by E. light winds and clear. At fun-fet tlic extremes ot
land bore from E. by S. to W. N. W. oft'fliore 3 Ica-iies. ;
Nootka i^ound E. by N. didant 6 or 7 leagues. At lo A. M.
Nootka Sound bore E. by N. diflant 7 or 8 leagues.
f E. S. E. to W. S. W. (irong gales, and hard rain. At 4 A. M.
J Nootka Sound bore E. N. E. diftant 6 or 7 leagues. At nooft.
I rounded Hog Iflaiid, and anshorcd in Friendly Cove.
t N D OF TABLES.
,».1 <-■•.•.■ ''■-
APPENDIX-
NO I.
INSTRUCTIONS of tke MERCHANTS PROPRIETORS.
'f;^
2o John Meares, Efq. commanding the Felice and Iphigenia.
SIR,
AS the profccution of Voyages to diftant countries muft redound to the honour of
thofe who undertake them, by elucidating the obfcurities of Geography, and
opening new channels for Commerce ; and whereas it appears that a very beneficial trade
may be carried on between China and the North Weft Coaft of America, part of which
was difcovercil by Sir Francis Drake, in the year of our Lord 1579; and confidcring that
the fituition of China, both for the outfit of vcffels for the fur trade, as well as for the
difpofal of cargoes, is fuch, as muft ihortly deftroy all competition, and give us the
exclufivc polRnion of this valuable branch of trade, much to the advantage of our
country : from thcfe confulcrations we have fitted out and equipped two good and fuffici-
ent vcffels, for the purpofe of cftablifliing this branch of trade, viz. the Felice and
Jpkigenia,
And yon nrc hereby required and direfted to proceed with both veffels, with the
utmoft difparch, to the North Weft Coaft if America. The moft expeditious route, we
conceive, will be to proceed through the China Seas to the Southward, between Mindoro
and Pclawan, and to the Southward of Magindanao; touching, if neceffary, at Sooloo;
and palling round the Northern extremity of New Guinea, get as far to the Eaftward as
the winds will admit, or you mr.y judge neceffary; ftanding then to the Northward of
the Tropick, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. As this is a navigation
of great extent and duration, it is neceffary you (hould provide yourfclf with a fufficient
4|r flock
\ ■].
•^''mmmm
END
X.
if
^1
W}
ftock of water, as nothing fo efTedlually checks the advance and progrefs of the Scurvjr
as a plentiful allowance of that article.
As the fuccefs of the voyage, in a great meafurc, depends on your early arrival at
Nootka ; we define, that, if you find yourfelf detained by the bad failing of the Iphigenia,
that you fcparate from her, and proceed fingly to America.
You will give inftruAions to Captain William Douglafs to proceed, with the utmoft
expedition, to Cook's River, and remain there as long as he may judge expedient; and
from thence to proceed to Prince William's Sound ; and after remaining there until the
trade fiackens, to proceed to the Southward, to Crofs Sound (which is fuppofcd to com-
municate with the bay to the Northward of Cape Edgcombe) and along the coaft to the
Southward, as far as Nootka; examining the Icveral bays and iflands, and making fuch
flay in each as may be deemed expedient J endeavouring to arrive in Nootka Sound by
the ift of September, 1788; where he will await your arrival till the 15th of 0«fto.
ter : — And in cafe of your not appearing in that time, you will dired him to proceed to.
China with fuch a cargo as he may be able to procure j and to leave a letter with one of
the chiefs, communicating only his arrival and departure.
The inhabitants of Nootka Sound being in expectation of arrivals, will, doubtlefs,
provide a cargo of Ikins, which will become the prize of the firft fliip that arrives there.
We, therefore, recommend to you, in the ftrongeft manner, to ulc the utmoft diligence
in arriving there. During your ftay at that place, — which you will extend as long as you"
judge proper, — we recommend to you to difpatch your long-boat, well armed, under the
command of a prudent officer, to Wicananifti, twelve or thirteen leagues to the Soutb-
waid of Nootka, where, wc underftand, many fine fkins may be procured. We recom-
mend to you, afterwards, to proceed to Barclay's Sound, and accurately examine tlvc
coaft to the Southward, as far as the Spanifli Settlements. Should the profpeft of trade
be encouraging, you will then return to the Northward, examining the difllrcnt bays and
harbours to the Northward of Nootka, particularly the coafls of Queen Charlotte's
Iflands, as far as 55" North j or execute as much of this part of your Inftrudions as is
confiftent with your arrival at Nootka by the ift of September, 1788.
Should you, on your return to Nootka, find there the Iphigenia, you will, in fuch
cafe, difpatch her to China with all the furs collected; anu. as we propofe returning
her to you as early as poflTiblc after her arrival here, you v ill appoint with Captain
Douglafs a time and place of rendezvous, that you may receive the inftrudlions and rc-
frclhments. we may fend you next feafon. Wc leave it to y ur difcretion to winter upon
the
n.
p p
N D I X.
the coaft of America, or at the Sandwich Iflands ; though, confidering the feverity of
the climate, as well as the health of your people, and that little advantage in the way of
trade is to be derived from the former, during the winter feafon, we conceive it will be
more eligible for you to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and return to the coalt early in
March ; of which you will take care to inform the Indians at Nootka, that they may ex*
pedt your return.
Although you are abundantly provided with copper, iron, and other articles of trade,
we muft recommend to you the drifted oeconomy in the application of them j as it ap«
pears that the natives are fuch intelligent traders, that, ihould you be in the leaft degree
lavilh, or inattentive in forming bargains, they will lb enhance the value of t*-eir furs,
as not only to cxhauft your prcl'ent dock, but alfj to injure, if not ruin, ..,y future
adventure.
^
As every perfon on board you is bound by the articles of agreement not to trade,—
even tor the mod trilling articles, — we expeCV the fulled compliance with this condition;
and we dial! mod alTurcdly avail ourfclvcs of the penalty a breach of it will incur. But
as, notwithdanding, the feamcn may have laid in iron and other articles for trade — think-
ing to efcape your notice and vigilance, — we direft, that, at a proper time, before you
make the land ot America, you fearch the veffcl carefullv, and take into your pofleflion
every art'cle that can ferve for trade; — allowing the owner its full value.
I
As other furs bear no proportion, in value, to thofe of the fea-ottcr, thefe are to be, of
courl'e, the principal object of your trade. — Beavers and foxes, particularly the black
fliins, are of confiderable value in China. Marten ikins will not bring more than one
dollar each.
L.
We recommend to you alfo, as an objeft very dcfcrvingof your attention, the procur-
ing as much whale-oil and whale-bone as poflible j for which you are provided with a
fufiicient (juantity of calks.
Ginfent^ and Snake-root are faid to be produced on the North Wed Coad of America :
you will coUe(!:l as much of both thefe articles as poffiblc ; and you will bring with you
fampks of the dilTcrcnt ochres and minerals which the natives ufe as paints.
Mufcle-pearls are faid to be in great abundance on the North Coad of America :—
Coral is alfo an article on the coad. You will bring as much of both as poflible.
;ii I
A 2
Spars,
APPENDIX.
Spars, of every denomination, are conftantly in demand here :»Bring as many of
thofe as you can conveniently (low;
Hurft or Nourfc-flcins arc to be procured in abundance : — Their value here is twenty
Spanifli dollars per hundred.
As it appears that the natives arc ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or
negligence, it is ncccflary to be always on your guard, and to exert, at all times, the
utmod vigilance and caution. At the fame time, however, we recommend, in the
firongeA terms, the utmoft forbearance with them in every circumftancc where it may
lower you in their opinion, or endanger your fafety. Humanity and your own intereft
demand it.
You will endeavour to propagate at Nootka, and at the Sandwich Iflands, the breed of
your poultry of every kind : alfo of hogs, goats, and fhecp. On your arrival, you will
land Comckela, who is a native of the Sound, giving him fuch prefcnts as you may think
proper.'
On your return to the Sandwich Iflands, you will land Tianna at Atooi, or any of the
iflands he may defire. You will alfo give him fuch prefents as you think ufeful or ac-
ceptable; and, if poflible, you will refcrvc fome of your flieep and goats as a prefent to
this chief: as, by leaving them in his pofleflion, there is a better chance of their being
taken care of, and incrcafing; and thus rendering thefe iflands the belt place of rcfrefli-
ment in the world.
We particularly diredt, that j'ou do not bring away any of the inhabitants of America,
or the Sandwich Iflands; as there is no certainty that there will be any opportunity of
returning them to their own country.
Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with any Rullian, Englifli, or Spa-
nifli veiTels, you will treat them with civility and friendlhip; and allow them, if autho-
rized, to examine your papers, which will fliew the objeft of your voyage: — But you
muft, at the fame time, guard againft furprize. Should they attempt to feize you, or
even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by every means in your power, and
repel force by force. You will, on your arrival in the firft port, proteft before a proper
officer againft fuch illegal procedure; and afcertain, as nearly as you can, the value of
your veffel and cargo ; fending fudi proteft, with a full account of the tranfadlion, to
us at China.
Should
¥^^
APPENDIX.
Should you, in fuch confliA, have the fuperiority, — you will then take poflVffi^n of
the veflel that attacked you, as alfo her cargo j and bring both, with the officers and
crew, to China, that they may be condemned as legal prizes, and their crews puniihed
as pirates.
Recommending to you unanimity with your officers, and the ftridteft difcipline towardi
your fliip's company, and wifliing you a fuccefsful voyage,
• ' i We remain. Sir,
Y-iUr obedient and humble fervants,
(Signed), The Merchant Proprietors,
China, December i^y '787*
NO II.
you, or
wer, and
Should
ORDERS TO CAPTAIN DOUGLASS.
Extraei of a Letter from Mr. Meares, to Capt. William Douglass, com'
, mandtng the Iphigenia.
SIR,
AS foon as I have made the fignal for fcparation, you will pro-
ceed to put the following Inftrudtions into execution j and, at the fame time, I beg leave
to point out the neceffity of your ftridly adhering to the time and place that I have ap-
pointed you to meet me; as on thefe, in a great mealurc, depend the fuccefs of the
voyage you are engaged in.
I have to acquaint you, that you will be allowed one per cent, on the cargoes of the
Iphigenia and Felice, which will be paid after the fale of the furs. I need not remark
how advantageous this may turn out to you j nor are you to imagine that it is done as an
incitement to the performance of your duty to your employers; for if they had an idea that
any inducement was wanting, they would not have conferred on you the prefent com-
'" mand,
"W*^*^-*i
:|.
E N
I X.
mand, nor have committed to your care the truft they have donej bin they were fcnfiMp,
that when the Iphigenia was entruftcd to you, and fuch unlimited confidence repolcd in
your honour, that nothing further was rcquifite to impel you to promote their inrereft.
This is only to remind you of the confidence repolcd in you, and to caution you to be on
your guard, and to ki-ep a good look out that your ofiicers and crew pundtually obey the
articles they have figncd ; ii ,d that they arc not pcrniiiud to trade or traffic with the
natives for furs, or any other valuable article: and it is my particular dcfire, that not even
a curiofity be purchafed on the coaft of America, and as few as pofTible at the Sanilwith
Iflts: — fuch an intcrcourfe only tending to gratify an idle and vain whim, at the cxpcncc
of ihc infant comiucrcc now about to be cftablifl;cd.
Should any illicit commerce be difcnvorcd to you, or by you, you will note the fame in
the log-book, mentioHing the time and place of fuch dctcdlion, the articles pur> hafed, and
the names of the pcrfuns concerned; fo that the ofl'enders may be brought to jiillice.
You will take the articles \'o purchafcd into your own polfeflion, to be depofited amongft
the cargo: and if any perfon on board your, (hip fliould have imprudently Ihippcd
any articles ol commerce, you will feize the fimic for the benefit of your employers, —
noting all the particular circumftances in the log book.
.!
You will keep a rcgifter of all the furs you purchafc, their q\iality, number, and prices
given, in a book kept for that purpofe; fo that your employers may be a judge of your
economy in the trade committed to your care. I need not point out the necelFity there is
of hufbanding it, and taking every precaution that your iron and blue-beads do not be-
come a drug amongft the nations you may chance to trado with.
Your furs, when claflTed, arc to be packed in chefts. Let them be fmoakcd and cares
fully put in, with heavy weights over themj fo that when they are produced at market,
they may bear fuch an appearance as will enhance their value.
u
In your commerce with the Indians, I defire you totally to rejcift the /kins of the cub
otters, as they are of no value ; and their puJthafe only induces the natives to deal de-
ftruAion amongft them ; when, at a future peiiod, they would be more valuable.
Otters tails are valuable; you will, therefore, purchafe all you can: but by no means
encourage them to bring fmall pieces of otter-fkin, or old (kins, they being of little valuej
and it likewife encourages the natives to be remifs in hunting the more valuable otter.
The cutting of (kins (hould be difcouraged ; and by this means the trade would be
much mended.
Black
Am
APPENDIX.
Black fox-fkins are very valuable; you will therefore purchafe all you can get. The
river-otters, and inferior furs, I leave entirely to your own judgment to purchafe or not:
but 1 beg leave to remark, that by direfting the purfuits of the natives entirely to the
&a-ottcr, it may be the means of cncrcafmg their ftock of that valuable fur.
The beaver, if black, will bring from ten to twelve dollars) t!:e river-otter from four
to five: — Marten fkins, if black, are valuable) but thofe that are brown, are in little
edimation.
The fiiiall hurft-niins arc valuable, and are an objcd of commerce, being worth from
ten to fifteen dollars per hundred.
As there arc confidcrabic quantifies of ginfeng to the northward, I recommend your
procuring as much as poITible; giving the natives to undetftand that their women and chil-
dren fliovild be employed: and if you were to buy it only from them, it may be the means
of turning their indullry to valuable account.
During the time you remain in port, your carpenters may be employed in cutting down
fpars, and fawing plank; particularly boat's knees and timbers, — all which bear a good
price in China.
The procuring oil is an objedl worthy your attention: — It is worth, in China, forty*
five pounds fterling per ton; and whalc-bone, likewife, is very valuable.
You will preferve faniples of all minerals. And I beg you to be particular in your en-
quiries from what parts the natives of the Nortn procure their copper.
When you return to China, as you will touch at the Sandwich Ifiands, I recommend to
you to fill all your cafks with fait porkj which will fell well at China, or ferve for ft,,
ftore for the next equipment of veflcls in your employers' fervice for the coaft of America.
In Ihort, I recommend to your particular attention and ftudy to lade on board j'our
veflcl all fuch articles as you may judge w:ill turn to account in China.
Should you have any favourable opportunity, I recommend your Tilting fifli, viz. cod
and herring, of which there are fuch abundance to the Northward. In all thcfe particu-
hrs, you will be regulated by time: I have pointed out the refpedlivc value of thofe arti-
gles; — your own prudence will do the reft. As you have a crew fufEcient for every pur-
pofe.
lli
r:\
I
■■r-_
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
125
■a ■21
Sf Ufi 12.0
6"
Photographic
ScMices
Corporalion
^
\
^.
■1>^
<^
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v\
79 WIST MAIN STRHT
WnSTIR,N.Y. MStO
(716) •73-4503
)
E N D I X.
V
1 1')
l' i
n
pofe, and their wages are high, To, in my opinion, their exertions for the benefit of their
employers ihould be proportionably ftrenuous.
From experience wc know, that mofl excellent rope may be made at the Sandwich
Ifles. You will prohibit all (iHiing-lincs being purchnfed by individuals, and let them be
bought on account of the (hip, made into cordage, and the overplus carefully put by, that
it may be returned into (lore.
Induftry and adlivity are the forerunners of good order and difcipline. By keeping your
people thus employed, I truft you will be enabled to render a good and profitable account
to your employers.
You will take care to have a fair log-book kept for the concern. It is to contain every
minute tranfaftion of your voyage, from day to day. You will therefore mention therein
all purchafes you make of articles of commerce. You will alfu note tlown the good or
bad behaviour of your officers and crew; and thus afford to their employers a medium to
dldinguifli merit from worthkffncfs. This log- book is to be figned by yourfclf.
On your return to China you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c. &c. and
forward them to Daniel Beale, Efq. Canton, who is the ortenfible Agent for the concern:
and you have the mod particular injunflions, not to communicate, or give copies of any
charts or plans that you may make; as your employers aflert a right to all of them, — and,
as fuch, will claim them.
Should you, in the coiirfe of your voynge, meet with the veffcls of any other nntlon,
you will have as little communication with them as pofliblo. If they be of fuperior force,
and defire to fee your papers, you will fliew them. You will, however, be on your guard
againd furprize. Should they be either Ruffian, Englifli, Spanifh, or any other civilized
nation, and arc authorifcd to examine your papers, you w'll permit them, and treat them
with civility and friendfliip; but, at the f.ime time, you muft bo on your guard. Should
they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by
every means in your power, and repel force by force.
When I make the fignal to feparatc, or in cafe we ihould lofe company, you will pur-
fue, without lofs of time, your way to the North Weft coaft of America, cither to Cook's
River, or Prince William's Sound, whichever place, in your judgment, (hould be firft
touched at. The mcftexptJditious route, I fliould imagine, will be, lo proceed to the
Southward of the iflandof Magindanao, between Mindoro and Pelawanj touching, if ne-
I ccflary.
.-xiidiMMA^-i.
,-f —
APPENDIX.
ceflary, at SooloOj and palling round the Northern extremity of New Guinea, get as far
to the Eaftward as the winds will permit, or you may judge neceflary ; (landing then to
the Northward of the Tropick, to obtain variable winds to carry you to America. And
as this is a navigation of great extent and duration, I recommend the moft particular
care of your water, and that your crew have a plentiful allowance of it.
You will remain as long in Cook's River and Prince William's Sound as you think
eligible. I think it will be more advifablc to feek new places, than to wait the daily,
but precarious fupplies, that may be brought you.
As I mean to proceed dire(ft for Nootka Sound, and from thence purfue my courfe to
the Southward; you will, therefore, knowing this determination, make your difpofi-
tions accordingly; exploring every place between Cook's River and Nootka, particu-
larly Crofs Sound, (which is fuppofed to communicate with the bay to the Northward o£
Cape Edgcombe) and all along the coaft to the Southward ; examining the feveral bays
and iflands, and making fuch (lay in each as may be deemed expedient; endeavouring
to arrive at Nootka by the iirft day of September, 1 7S8, where you will await my arri«
val in Friendly Cove, — a plan of which I enclofc you. You will wait for me till the (irft
day of November; when, 0.1 feeing nothing of me, on that day you will make the beft of
your way to the Sandwich Iflands, and anchor in Wymeo Bay, in the ifland of Atooi;
ren-.aining there twelve days ; when, if I do not arrive during that interval, you will pro-
ceed toChina, and follow the directions I have given you; — leaving a letter with Taheo,
or Abinui, communicating only your arrival and departure. But as nothing but fome ac-
cident (hall prevent my arrival in Nootka by the time appointed, you may faithfully ex-
pert to fee me there, to fettle our future operations.
As one of the vclTels is to remain, and the other return to China, you will fee the ne-
eeflity of thus meeting, in order that one velTel may put her cargo on board of that
which returns.
Il'fl
/ill pur-
Cook's
be firft
to the
, if ne-
ceflarv.
In your examining the Northern coaft, you will recoiled Qiieen Charlotte's Iflands,
in 55' North latitude. In executing this, you will do it as far as is confident with your
arrival at Nootka by the iird of September.
I have mentioned before, that every one is bound by the articles of agreement, not
to trade for the moft trifling article. The fulleft compliance with this condition is expcAed
by your employers, who will undoubtedly avail themfelves of the penalty a breach of
B it
i
E N
X.
it will incur. But as, notwithftanding, the feamen may have laid in iron qnd other
aiti.les for trade.—thinking to cfcapc your notice and vigilance, — I diredt, that, at a
proper time, before you make the coall of America, you fearch the veflel carefully, and
take into your pofleflion every article that can ferve for trade, — allowing the owner the full
value for it.
\
If
•I*. ;
11
fe
In addition to the other articles of commerce mentioned, you will bring a fample of the
different ochres the natives ufc as paint.
Mufcle-pcarl is in great abundance to the Northward, and coral ; you will procure as
much of thefe articles as you can.
As it appears that the natives are ever on the watch to take advantage of weaknefs or
negligence, it is ncccflary always to be on your guards and exert, at all times, the utmoft
vigilance and caution. At the fame time I recommend the utmoft forbearance, where it
may not lower you in their opinion, and endanger your own fafety. Humanity and your
own intcrcft demand it.
You will be particularly careful to prefcrve a breed of the various animals put on board
30U for the Sandwich Iflands.
On no account are you to bring away any of the natives of America or the Sandwich
Ifl.mds, or any other iflands you may difcovcrj except your rcafons are fo cogent and
ftrcr.g, as will enfure you the countenance of your employers.
The introcludtion of woollens is of the utmoft confequence, could it be done amongft
the people of America: — at all times ufe your endeavours to barter with them for fuch as
you have on board. The great advantages that would accrue to your country, as well as
credit to yourfelf, will make you attentive to this point.
As there is a quantity of fpruce on board your fhip, you will, when you fee occafion,
make it into beer, and ferve it out to your crew; which will be a confiderable faving of
your fpiritsj — as thofe two articles will not be allowed your (hip's company together.
Permit me to add, — that as you will be intitled to whatever praife may be due to your
condudl, fo you will alfo bear any blame which may arife from want of attention to your
employers' intercft. And you will promife, in my name, that thofe who diftinguifli them-
fclves ly good order, fobriety, and exertion, as well as by obedience to your commands,
ftiall
•i r
^ APPENDIX.
ftall meet with an adequate reward, either by promotion in their prefent employ, or by
protedtion and recom.-nendation, Ihould they leave it.
Recommending unanimity with your officers, and the ftrlctcfl: difcipline towards your
ihip's company,—
Felice, ai Sea, Fibruaryx, ij
I remain. Sir,
Your moft obedient fervant,
JOHN MEARE&
^
NO III.
INSTRUCTIONS to explore the STRAITS of JOHN DE FUCA,
To Mr. Robert Duffin, Firjl Officer of the Felice.
V, II
SIR,
YOU will proceed with the long-boat to the Southward of this
port, in order to trade with the natives for furs j for which purpofe I have put under
your charge fufficient articles of commerce. You are now fo well acquainted with the
nature of a trip of this kind, that it would be needlefs to give you any inftrudtions for
the condudt you are to purfue.
Trufling intirely to your difcretion, I have confiderable hopes that you will prove
fucccfsful, as you vifit the numerous villages feated along the fliore leading to the Straits
of John De Fuca. You will enter this ftrait as far as you find any inhabitants, or prof,
peft of furs; and as we had an hint of a diftant nation refidingup this fea, the exploring
of it, fo as not to retard materially your courfe to the Southward, may be of confequenccj
particularly if you ihould be fortunate enough to find a hatbour.
B 2
When
I
I. ' '
N D
X.
h
x
f ' I it
When you leave this ftrair, you will touch at Tatootche's Ifland, and at the villages
feated along the fhores to the Southward. — I think it will be advifable to avoid
Queenhithe.
If the winds and weather Ihould be tolerable, fo as to permit you to purfue your courfe
to the bay which we named Shoal-water Bay, it will be a particular fatisfadtion, if only
to afcertain the exigence of another nacion, dillintft from that of Nootka; much more fu
if that bay, or places adjoining, are capable of receiving Ihippiug.
Ai it is impoflible to provide againft contingent circumftances, I therefore leave every
other matter to your own prudence.
I recommend to you, particularly, to be conftantly on your guard ; to keep your arms
dry and in good order, and at nights to avoid anchoring in the vicinity of any large vil*
lage or populous place : — and, I intreat you, above all things, to avoid any warfare with
the natives ; but to let that humanity, good faith, and fteady line of condudt which has
hitherto guided our actions, be the leading principles of your mind in all your proceed-
ings. Your own goodnefs of heart will not, I truft, permit you to fandtion any dcpre>
dations on the defencelefs favage nations with whom you may have intercourfc, by any
perfon under your orders.
You will take pofleflion of this ftrait, and the lands adjoining, in the name of the
King and Crown of Britain ; and inftill into the minds of the inhabitants that you will
return ihortly to fulfill any treaties of com'.nerce or amity that you may make with them,
and for which you have my authority.
I beg that you will keep a memorandum of your proceedings, take flvctchcs of the
land, and make other proper remarks.
I propofe waiting in this port until your return. Should any unforefeen accident,
howevetj oblige me to leave it, you will proceed to Nootka, and join me there.
Wiftiing you fucccfs,
'?V I remain. Sir,
Your moft obedient Servant,
J. MEARES.
FitlCI, P»rt Effnghtm, July 13/*, lySS,
No IV.
P P E N D I X.
NO IV.
COPY OF Mr. DUFFIN's JOURNAL.
ON the 13th of July, 1788, left the Ihip, with the long-boat,
manned and armed, bound to the Southward, to trade for furs and explore the coaft. At
eight A. M. came to, in a fandy bay, at a fmall dillance from the ihip, to put the boat to
rights. At II A. M. left this bay, after having got fome visuals cooked. This day, or
log, contains i z hours, and ends at noon.
i^b. — Wind from the South Eaft with conftant rains. At five o'clock came to in a fand/
bay oppofite to the village of Atiah. Came alung-iidc, a number of canoes ; but no ap-
pearance of any furs : — Bought from them fome hurft-fkins and a few fifli, for beads.
Thefe people behaved very civilly, not offering to commit any depredations : fired a
mulketoon at fun-fet, as a fignal for the natives not to approach the boat in the night. —
A. M. the wind We(lerly, and cloudy weather : at five o'clock weighed, and run to the
village, and lay on our oars till 8 o'clock. Not feeing a fingle fkin, thought it advifable
to proceed to the Sound, having a favourable wind. Steered Eaft and Eaft North Eaft
along the coaft, at the diftance of a quarter of a mile. This coaft, in general, to a
village called Nittee Natt, affords a very pleafant profped: — is moftly a fandy beach, but
no foundings with 20 fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the fliote. There are alfo a
number of water-falls, and the furf breaks very high all along the coaft,. which lies Eaft
and Weft, per compafs. At noon a pleafant breeze and cloudy weather. The point which
forms the entrance of John De Fuca's fea, which I call Point Entrance, Eaft by South i
Tatootche's Ifland South Eaft by Eaft, off the former four leagues, and from the latter
ten leagues — latitude obfervcd 48° 38' North.
I ^ih — Pleafant breezes from the Wcflward, and clear weather. At half paft one P. M.
run into a fmall fandy bay, feeing two or three houfes there, and came to; upon which
all the natives quitted the place, they being only filhcrmcn, taking their fi(h with them.
Seeing no probability of getting any furs- here, I weighed and runout again, and came
to off the village of Nittee Natt, a quarter of a mile from the Ihore; attempted to enter a
rivulet there, but found too great a furf on the bar to approach, fo ran out and came to
anchor in 10 fathoms, fand ; Point Entrance bearing South by Eaft — the village now off
half a mile ; came jlong-fidc the chicf» named Kiffan j latitude at noon ^S' 34' North.
If
. 1
p p
N D I
i'
»yk
tfiil' — Plcafint weather, wind Northerly, at fix P. M. weighed, having purchafed
fc-veral (kins, ran into a fandy bay, or rather cove, where there was a village, two cancel
in company decoying us in, when, iiiimcdiately on our approaching the (hore, the na«
tivc-s ail'eniblcd on the beach with fpcars, bludgeons, bows and arrows, &c. making at
the lame time a difmal howling, ufing threatening poAures, which I thought was to
prevent us from landing, but I was millakcn, for I had a fhower of arrows thrown round
the boat, from a ruck at a fmall diftance from us, but luckily none hurt us ; feveral
fell on the boat's awning, but did not penetrate through, upon which I found myfclf
under the neci-lTity of firing at them, but was at too great a dillance to do execution.
They then began to launch feveral large canoes, with a number of fpears, &c. on
which, I difchargcd a mufketoon at one of them, but, I believe, did not wound any
one. However, they immediately left her, and ran howling into the woods; I then
faw a man come tunning down to the beach with a half-pike, which they had found
means to take out of the boat, unknown to us ; I then perceived that was the reafon of
their committing hodilities, being dcfirous of retaining what they had ftolcn. Upon my
receiving the half-pike hoftilities ceafed. I hope there are none of them killed, though,
at the fame time, they very richly dcfcrved it. Weighed and run out, feeing no likeli-
hood of getting any furs. Steered Ea(l along the coaft, and palled Point Entrance at the
diAance of half a mile. At half pad feven o'clock, feveral rocks lying off, and the furf
beating very high, at ten P. M. came to in eleven fathoms i coral rocks. Calm all the
night ; the water very fmooth. At day-light we found ourfelvcs a-breall a fmall village :
feveral canoes came ofT, but no appearance of any furs. The people faid they were all
fubjeft to Wicananilh; — behaved very civilly : — bought from them fome fiflj. At feven
o'clock weighed, and rowed to the End up the flraits, it being calm. At nine o'clock,
fprungup a light breeze from the Southward. This coaft lies due Eaft and Weft, per
compafs. — Coafted along fliorc at the diftance of half a mile : foundings eleven fathoms ;
feveral places no ground at twenty fathoms. — This coaft is entirely abed of rocks. At
half paft eleven A. M. faw the entrance of a deep b.iy ; entered ditto at noon, it pro-
niifing very fair for a harbour. — Latitude obferved, 48"' if North.
iytJ:.-^At two P. M. came to in a fmall cove in three and three quarters fathoms, clofc
to the rocks. Regular foundings along the bay, from fifteen to four fathoms, half a
mile from the ftiore. This is an excellent harbour for veflels of about looor 150 tons ;
but not water enough over the bar for a larger one, there being only two fathoms at high
water, and the tide flows eighteen feet. The bay is a very fafe place for a (hip to ride in
the fummcr months :— no wind can hurt her except at South Eaft, and then the bay being
very deep, there cannot be much fea. It is alfo good holding ground, being a muddy
and fandy bottom. The people here all claim Tatootche for their chief. They appear-
ed, to us, to be a bold, daring fet of fellows -, but not being near any of their villages,
5 I was
iliiiililMniHllii«MlMiiiiil.ljg;aiJ>HK.i
-r-r-
A* P P
E N
I X.
I was uiuler no apprchenfions. At fcvcn A. M. came along.fidc the boat (evcral canoes,
with n great number of men in each. Several of tlic people attempted to cu.nc into the
boat; I, at the fame time, defiling them to Icrep out, nut permitting any of them to
come in; neither did any of the people in the boat fay, or ofi'cr to do any thing to them.
One of the canors put off a little from the boat i when one of the favagcs in her took up
a fpear pointed with niufcie-flicll, and fixed it to a llaft' with a cord made fall to it, at the
fame time putting himftif in a poflure of throwing it, and fignifying, by his gcflurcs,
that he would kill me : I, ut that time, took no notice of him, not tiiinking him Icrious.
Upon infpcding, however, their canoes, I found them all armed with f|)c.irs, bludgeons,
and bows and arrows; lall'opcrceivcdanumbcr of armed people amongll the trees on fhure,
oppoficc the boat: I then found tliey meant to take the boat; upon which, I ordered the peo-
ple to get their arms ready, and be on thi.ir guard, and narrow! v to watch the motions of the
man with the fpear, and if he attimptcd to heave it, to flioot him. The words were fcarco
uttered, when I fawthe fpear jull coming out of his hand at Robert Dividfon, quartcr-mal-
ter and cockfwain ; on which I ordered them to fire, — which one perfon diil, and killed the
man with the fpear on the fpot, the ball going through his hcai!. The rell of the people
jumped overboard,and all the other canoes padt'lcd away. We inllantly had a fliowcr of
arrows poured on us from the fhore j upon which a conllant five was kept on them, but with
no effift, they Iheltering themfclves behind large trees. I was wounded in the head with
an arrow immediately as the man fell. We weighed anchor, and pulled out with two oar?»
keeping the reft of the people at the arms. Wc found the Ihore on both fides lined with
pcople,armed with fpcars, ftones, &c. fo that it apjicarcd pbinly their intent was to take the
boat. A great quantity of arrows and ftoncs came iiuo the boat, but fortunately none
were wounded mortally. Peter Salatrafs, an Italian, had an arrow flicking in his leg all
the time till we got clear of them, not being able to pull it out without laying open the
leg, the arrow being bearded, and with two prongs; I was obliged lo cut his leg open to
get it out, as it had penetrated three inches. The Chinaman was alfo wounded in the
fide, and another feaman received an arrow near his heart. As loon as we got clear of
them, wc made fail, and turned out of the bay. — Soundings as regular as coining in : —
the wind Wefterly. Stood over to the other fliori.', meaning immediately to return to
the (hip, as I foun." I;: natives intircly bent on milchicf, and that we could not |)rocced
along the coaft wi. . :*vtv and without endangering our lives: — I alfo found my head
very fore, the arrow aving penetrated into my Ikull, and would certainly have killed
me, had it not been for my hat, which broke its force. At noon, pleafant breezes and
clear weather; Tatootchc's Ifland South Weft. This place obtained the name of Port
Hawkefbury, and the other bay 1 called Hoftility Bay.
#
i8.'/.v—
- fi-- ^
P P E N
I X.
itih. — Pleafant wetthert wind South South Weft. At four P. M. tacked off the
South (horc, four miles, and ftood over to the North fliore of the Straits. At feven
o'clock tacked again off (horc, half a mil": at fun-fet the entrance of Port Hawkcfbury
North by Eaft, Tatootche's Ifland South j Point Entrance Weft South Weft, off the
Utter eight leagues, and from the former three leagues. Steered during the night North
Weft by Weft, and Weft North Weft, with a pleafant breeze and foggy weather, and
returned to the fljip.
(Copy)
ROBERT DUFFIN.
NO V.
Mr. MEARES's INSTRUCTIONS to Capt. DOUGLASS, on leaving the
AMERICAN COAST.
'M
7oCapt. William Douglass, eommanding the Ivhiozvik.
S I R,
AS I mean to proceed, immediately on the launch of the North.
Weft America, to the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China, — the whole charge
of the Iphigenia and North-Weft America, will confequently devolve on you.
Though I entertain the higheft opinion of your capacity to conduift fo weighty a
charge, yet, neverthelefs, I think it neceffary to point out the route you are to purfue
after I feparate from you. I have no doubt of your ability to put into execution any
meafure or plan for the benefit of your employers : and as you have already given a con-
vincing proof of this in your late voyage, fo in the aftive fcene that I am about to lay
before you, I have no doubt but that your diligence and caution will be redoubled, to
bring your future voyage to a happy conclufion. I take the liberty of mentioning this,
as it will require yourutmoft attention, your utmoft application and perfeverance, to put
into execution fuch plans as I ihall lay down for the benefit of your employers. As I
place before you an extenfive field to employ your abilities in, I am well affured th it
you will take advantage of this circumftance, and fhew the world, that in my opinion of
you, I have not been miftaken.
I In
and
APPENDIX.
In order to put every meani in your power that I can to enfure fucccfs, I have fup>
plied you with every fpeciei of ftores on board the Felice:— Yet, nevcrthelefs, from the
fcantinefs of the fupply, — though all I am enabled to givr you, —you will have difficuU
ties to conquer, which I forefcc will require all your vigilance to provide agiinft. The
material fupplies which I have given you of flower and bread, will, I flatter nr felf, be
of eflirntial confequence$, when added to thofc that you will receive at the Sandwich
Iflands. You will there fait down your pork j in performing whitb, I rcconmond to
you to be particularly careful, following the method which C.i|)tain Cook dirct-'N; as by
not obfcrving this, Captain Colnctt, of the Prince of Wales, loll the gnatclt part of his
provifions before he reached the latitude ot 30" North, on his proceeding to the cnnft
of America. For this purpofc I have given you every cafk in my fliip, cxcipt the
pround tier. The next object of your attention will be vegetables, particularly the yanij
of thofc you will obtain fuch a quantity, as I triift will prove a great relrelhmenr, even
on the American Coaft. During the time you are at the Sandwich Iflaml'!, I recommend
your ferving no bread; as the abundance and variety of vigetabks will render it nced-
Icf?; and fuch a faving, in your prcfent flatc, will tend m.it.rially to the fucccfs of your
voyage, Irccommcnd the fame precaution in rcfpcd to your llowcr.
^ f
charge
As your flock of liquors is entirely cxhaufted, and having none to fupply you with, in
lieu thereof I have fent you all the cflcnce of fpruce in my pofllflion, as alio meiaUcs,
in order to make beer. You will ufe this fupply at your plcafure; and as there will not
be mclaflcs fulFicicnt, I recommend to you trying at the iflrnds the experiment of b(»il-
ing down fugar-canc; of which, Captain Cook made a plcafant and nu;rccablc beer for
his crew: but if you can cffeft making a fyrup, it mud be particul.irly grateful to your
people with tea, as I have no fugar to fupply you with, and your own is entirely gone.
You will try the poITibility of diftilling runij for which purpnfe I fend you a flill and
copper. If thefc points are happily cfTcifted, you will find yourfelf pnllclli'd of tlic rc-
fources to put into execution the plan that I place before you. At all events, 1 have ihe
ftrongeft reliance on your being able to conquer every difllculty.
i
In
From the information which I have received from the Princcfs Royal, I think it ncccf-
fary to warn you of the dangers attending your flay at thofc iflands; where a crew, Immerfed
in pleafure, may become but too caly a prey to fo daring and refulutc a fet of pcopL-. —
Your judgment will point out to you to draw your principal refourccs of provifions from
Owyhee, the windward ifle. The danger of anchoring here, from the multiui le of peo-
ple, is but too evident. With the bay of Mowee you arc acfiuaintcct : — Here I \sould re-
commend you to anchor, if a fpot free from coral rocks caji be fojn '. For though
Titerrec is fovercign of Mowee, Morotoi, and the .^diaccnt iflcs, yet the f.i(iVions fub-
fifting between the Icfler chiefs, will, in nil probability, prevent their combining to
C commit
it
I]
\ i>l
"""""^fli**
PEN
I X.
commit hoftilitiei on you. The didance alfo you lie from the Ihore of this iiland, will,
in fome mcafure, tend to your fccurity i and amongd the whole group of thofe iflandt,
I know no place fo eligible, provided good anchoring-ground can be found. When the
trade-wind blows, it comes down in rcfrcfhing breezes from the fummits of the moun-
tains, and meliorates the fcorching heat of the fun, — every where fo pernicious. If the
trade>wind ceafes, and the North-VVcft winds blow, you have feveral large and capacious
channels to put to fca through, and the danger of a Icc-fliore is removed : — and permit
metoobferve, that this is the only (lation you can occupy amongd thefc iflands, where
this danger is to be avoided j and it is a danger of fuch magnitude, that I mull entreat
you, the moment jou fee it blacken in the Noith-Wcft, to put inftantly to fca, as the
only means of fafcty.
The favagc ficrccncfs of the people of Wahoo, will, I Ihould fuppofc, render your
ftay at that iiland very fliurt. The popuioufnefs of Atooi may deter you from making
any long ftay in Wyinco Bay: — You will therefore finally clofe your route at Onehow,
where I truft you will guard carefully agiinft the art and cunning of Taheo and Abinui,
for I think them dreadful, mercenary, artful vill ins. As they attempted to poifon the
crews of the Prince of Wales and Pi inccfs Royal, you will guard againft fuch a diabolical
defign, by infpcdting the cocoa-nuts, yams, water, &c. making the feller tafte each.
From Tianna wc have a full knowledge of the extreme fubtilty of a poifun in their pof-
feftion, which operates inftantaneoully on the vit.il powers. Should you difcovcr fuch
an attempt, I recommend to you to feize thofe concerned ; and as a tranfaiflion of this
nature cannot take place without the knowledge of Taheo and Abinui, fuch wickcdnefs
ought to be made an example of. The commerce that the natives of Atooi have had
with Europeans, has operated fo much on their natures, that too much cautioner vigi-
lance cannot be exerted.
On no account fuffcr more than one or two on your decks at a time. Keep people
conftantly in your tops, with arms ready, your guns loaded and primed; and never per-
mit the natives to fwim about the (hi])} or, moll alluredly, you will have your ca-
blet cut.
Itruft that you will procure a good fupply of cordage; and I fliould imagine that the
mats, cloth, &c. might be held in as much requeft on the Northern ftation of America,
as they are on the Southernj— you WfHl therefore purchafc as many as you think proper
for the American market.
1 have great hopes that Tianna will be of confiderable fervice to you. — To this chief
I recommend you to be particularly attentive. The placing him agreeable to his wiflies,
either
A P P
N D I X.
either on Owyhee, with his relation Tome Tomy Haw, the fovereign of that iflanJ
and Atooi, or with hii brother Nawtnity Haw and family, on the latter ifland, is a point
that 1 fed myfelf extremely intercftcd in. Whatever Tiannn's ambition may be on
feeing himfelf fo powerfully fupported, yet we niuft not lofc fight of prudence in fet»
tling our friend; and we (hall prove his trucll and moil faithful one's, in placing him
exactly in the ftatioii wc took him from. VVc muft therefore not Kt his ambition ftimu-
late us on the one hand, nor our own dcfires on the other, to raife our friend to a flation
ever envied amongft mankind. Throuc^h the gcncrofity of Mr. Cox, he returns un-
boundedly rich to the circle of his fricntli. Though greatly deferving in himfelf, yet
the line of prudence mud not be pallid ; niul the example of Omai fhews us the danger
attending the Imiles of fortuiu", even anonj^rt favage tribes. Independent of any other
confideration, a fruitlels contell niij.',ht be entered into, which might eventually, be
extremely detrimental. You will therefore difinil's him with fiich prelents, in addition
fo what he hns, as you n)ay think proper to coiitVr on him; and as you know his lan-
guage fo well, I entreat you to meet his ideas of happinefs as far as prudence permits,
or circumllanccs put it in your power.
. ''I
t
I't
The ifland of Onehow furnilhes the pcaiUoyftcr. You will endeavour to make Tianna
fenfjble of the trcafures they contain, and the importance of them to iisj and I have hopes,
that during your (lay you will fully alcertain this point.
If you think proper to ftek the new difcovcrcd ifland, faid to lie to the North Weft of
Atooi, you will in this, as in every other point, be guided by your judgment.
H
As foon as the America is launched, I (hall proceed on my voyage to China, when vou
will take on you the direction of future operations. As you have now fo fcaiity a fupply
of fait provifions on board, and the obtaining fifli being very precarious, I recommend to
you to make the beftof your way to the Sandwich Iflands, as foon as tin- America is re.idy
for Tea:— but in this you will be directed by your judgment, and the fuppiics of fifli.
Should vou procure enough of this article to permit you to remain on the coall till the
end of October, — to employ this time to advantage, I lecommend to you to ttcer to the
latitude 46° North, and trace as much of the coaft between 46" and 40° as you can ; as this
month is eftecmed tolerably good. You may fortunately, by exploring this part of the
coaft, light on fome new tribes, which I have the ftrongeft reafon to imagine inhabit thefe
parts. I have a knowledge that the Spaniards obtained a prodigious number of otter-
fkins, which were brought to Manilla in theGilleons, and from thence to China, where I
faw them. lam morally certain that they were not procured to the Nortiuvard of 46",
as no where did I meet with an atom of the manufactures of Spain, cither iron or copper.
This portion of America is now all that remains to be known to usj and fo fortunate a
C a moment,
I'l
E N
I X.
Ill
moment may be feized to acquire a competent knowledge of this part of the coaft, as will
either determine us in future to give up this Southern portion of the continent, as unpro-
du(flivc of mercantile advantages, or feek the fea-otter in thefe parts. It becomes a
queftion, where did the Spaniards procure thefc (kins? And this point I hope you will be
able to clear up, fo as, next year, to enable us to take advantage of any difcovery you may
nuke. I ever meant, at fome future period, to trace this part of the coaft. The necef-
fity, however, of my immediately proceeding to Ch'^i, will prevent any expedition of
this kind on my part j and your having the North Well America to affift you, will, I truft,
enable you to pert'orni it efieftually, ihould you determine to fpend the month of October
on the coaft: — But I leave this point to be determined by yc jr own judgment and con-
current circumftances.
The knowledj^c we have now obtained of the coaft of America, and of the periodical
winds and fcafons, gives us an advantage over all competitors. The years 1790 and
1791 bid fair to be the moft productive that wc may ever meet with. Having thcfc flat-
tcr"' t; profpcds before us, our exertions muft be redoubled, effectually to fwcep the coaft
before any veflll can arrive from England. In order to accomplifh this, you will leave the
Sandwich Illands as early as poflible in the year 1789$ and, at the fame time, for fear of
accidents, or feparation, give your orders to Mr. Funter, that he may proceed, and put
his part of the plan of operations into execution.
The Northern diftridl of the continent, I leave to you L'nd the America; the Southern
flation I fliall occupy myfelf,from China j and lam not without hopes, that by the firft of
May, 1789. 1 fliall reach the coaft. I then (hall proceed as circumftances arife: — but let
me range which way I will to the Southward, I fliall not attempt to go to the Northward
of Nobtka. On your parr, I have no doubt of your arrival on the coaft of America fome
time about the firft of April, 1789. By this time the monfoon will be fet in, which, ex-
perience has taught w, blows clofe home to the American (hore. Therefore, to embrace
the advantages which the monfoon offers, inrtead of going immediately to Prince
William's Sound, as others have done, I recommend you to make the coaft to the South-
ward : and as you have the credit of difcovering the Great Ifland, the North-weft fide of
which, comprehending nearly four degrees of latitude, is entirely undifcovered; I there-
fore recommend your making Cape Saint James, the Southern extremity of the Great
Ifland, as the firft point on the continent of America.
Should vou find yourfelf retarded by the North Weft America's being a bad failer, you
will proceed fi igly ;o the coaft, leaving her to follow at leifure, to put into execution
your iiUliudions; but this being a very unlikely circumftance, as you will probably find
her
PEN
1 X.
her a prime failer, — in that cfo, <oii will proceed in company to theCoaft, until you make
Cape Saint James; when (he will immediately fcparate from you.
As you ftcer along the North-weft fide of the Great Ifland, you will explore ir ni'nutc-
ly, to the height of 54" North; where refides a chief, whofe didrict is Lugo, and vsherc
Captain Dixon procured, in a few hours, two hundred cloaks, or fix hundred fkins. Be-
tween this Chief's refidence and Cape SaiiU James, is a track of coaft unexplored ; and we
may not, perhaps, vainly flatter ourfclvcs, if we fuppofc, that in fuch an extent ot country
there refide many chiefs and numerous inhabitants. The monfoon will gradually blow
you along this coaft; and as you will have time and the feafon before you, you will ex-
plore it thoroughly. Having perfoimed this point, from which great advantages may be
expeftcd, you will, of courfc, proceed to Otter Sound, and the bay to which you have
been pleafed to give my name. From hence you will proceed gradually to Prince
Williniii's Sound, vifiting the various places on the coaft where you have already been,
and with which you are now fo well acquainted, particularly Crofs Sound, which appears
to be of fuperior importance. In purfuing this track, I recommend your arriving there
by the twentieth of May; where I think you ought to remain till thefirft of June, in order
to draw, if poflible, fomething from Cook's River; to which place I would by no means
have you go, as it is now totally in the pofleflion of the Ruffians : proceeding there
would only be a wafte of valuable time. On the firft of June, therefore, you will leave
the Sound, and again proceed to the Southward, retracing your old ftations, (colkdting
the furs as they are procured), until you arrive at the place you have appointed to meet
the America. That period, I beg may not be later than the firft of Auguft, 17S9.
As there is fufficient fcope to employ the N. W. America between the latitudes of ^0'^
and 45" 30' North, fo in this ftation muft flic b^ occupied. Therefore let your orders to
Mr. Funter be clear and explicit. When you fcparate at Cape Saint James, he will pro-
ceed into the Great Channel, and ftcer up the North-eaft fide of the Great Ifland, as high
as 54° 30' North; and be employed alternately between the ifland and the mainland of
America; a plan of which is now in your pofll-flion, as well as information of the various
chiefs, and their places of refidence : — the paper of intelligence rcfpcv5ling this, which I
fortunately procured, accompanies thefe inftrudions; a copy of which you will give Mr.
Funter, with a ftiitt charge not to proceed to the North Weft fide ot the Great Illand, ex-
cept in your progrefs you Itcoccafion to direft him. The N. W. America is fo admirably
adapted for this flation, that wc cannot but cnnri;ratulatc ourfelvcs on building fuch a
vefTel. When the winds blow hard from the Great Ifland, flic has but to feck flielter on
the American fliore, amongft the many bays and harbours that are there, where refide
numerous inhabitants. When he is driven from this ftation by flrong winds, fhe Eaftern
(Lores of the Great Ifland afford a certain afylum,— particularly the harjour of Port
5 RoyaL
i.
I
1
N
I
'j.
Royal. Thus willihe be employed until the period that you appoint for the rendezvous
arrives; which, I truft, will be about the beginning of Auguft. By this time (he will
have traverfed repeatedly the head of the Great Idand, — the North>ea(lern fliore of the
fame, — and all the main continent from 50* 30' North, to 54" 30' North. Thus every
inch of ground between Prince William's Sound and Nootka will be occupied and repeat-
edly traverfed, except the North Weft fide of the Great Idand; and as here again you may
expeft a further fupply fince you left it, I leave it entirely to your option and difcretion to
permit the N. W. America to run down this ftation, on her way to join mc at Nootka.
When you meet at the time appointed, you will write nie fully of your proceedings;
and you will proceed with the Iphigcnia, with all difpatch, to Mcdnoi, or Coppei Ifland;
where Itruft you will arrive by the tenth of September, or at Icaft before the North-wefters
fet in.
In performing this part of your inftruftions, I leave you to aft at difcretion, and as cir-
cumdances arifc. You may meet with, or hear of other fliips being on your ftation, with
whom you will have to contend; or other material circumftances, which may make n
deviation from thefe orders neceflary. I therefore here leave you entirely free j as I muft;
repeat, I do alfo in every other refpedt. I have pointed out the objeft of Copper Ifland ; and
no feafon appears fo favourable to put a vifit to ic in execution as the month of Auguft; by
which period, I truft, both you and the N. W. America will have fwept the Northern
Aation efTedtually; at leaft, what remains to be done, you will order Mr. Funtcr to per-
form previous to his joining me at Nootka; at which place I fhall await his arrival until
the 20th day of November, 1789; when feeing nothing of him, on that day I Ihall pro-
ceed to the Sandwich Iftands, and wait your and his arrival in Wymeo Bay, on the iilund
of Atooi; or at the ancho ring-ground, the ifland of Onchow, until the firft day of
January, 1790; when, neither you nor the N. W. America arriving, I fliall conclude that
fome fatal accident has happened, and make the beft of my way to China. This period
leaves fufiicient time for the completion of all operations ; yer 1 hope that the Iphigenia and
N. W. America will reach the iflands by the firft of December, 1789.
I here leave difcretlonal powers with you; fearful of circumftances arifing which
no human forefight can guard againft. You will perceive how much I rely on your
judgment and abilities.
Favourable windsmay permit you to reach Copper Ifland bythe 1 ft of September; when
you will explore the ifland, and endeavour to find a place of flielter againft the approach-
ing equinoAial, — ever to be dreaded in high Northern latitudes. If the copper*ore is in
I . ' - huge
APPENDIX.
fcuge maflcs you muft blow them up with powder, and lade on board as much as you
can. w.th fafcty to yourfhip; and alfo of fandel-wood, or of any other fweet-fcented
wood that you may find. Having performed this, you will embrace the Northerly winds
which by this time will be fet in. and proceed diredt to join me at the Sandwich Ifles'
as before inftrufledj-when the future operations will be adjufted for the returnine ihio
to proceed to China» * ^
Wiihing you health and fuccefs^
Felice, FrUndly Cove, In King George's Serin J,
Septembtr 20, 1788.
I remain, dear Sir,
Your very obedient Servant,
Ji M E A R E S.
\\
COPY
'*Vfl
;1!
APPENDIX.
N° I.
COPY OF THE MEMORIAL
PrefcnUd to The House of Commons, May 13, 1790: — Containing every
Particular refpedllng the Capture of the Veffeh In Nootka Sound.
ir-i'i
'T*HE Memorial of John Mums, Lieutenant in his Majefty's Navy, moft humbly
"*■ flicweth, — That early in the year 1786, certain merchants refiding in the Eaft
Indies, and under the immediate protedion of the Company, defirous of opening a trade
with the North Well Coaft of America, for fiipplying the Chincfe market with furs and
ginfcng, communicated fuch dcfign to Sir John Macpherfon, the governor-general of
India, who not only approved of the plan, but joined in the fubfcription for its execu-
tion; and two vcflcls were accordingly purchafed, and placed under the orders and com-
mand of your Memorialift.
That in the month of Mirch your Memorialift difpatched one of the fuid vefllls,
which he named The S:a Otter, under the command of Mr. Tipping, to Prince Wil-
liam's Souiul, and followed her in the other Ihip, which he named The Nootka.
That on your Memorialift's arrival in Prince William's Sound, in the month of Sep-
tember, he found the Sea 0;tcr had left that place a few days before ; and, from intel-
ligence he has fince received, the fhip was foon after unfortunately loft off the coaft of
Kamtfchatka.
That your Memorialift remained in Prince William's Sound the whole of the winter;
in the courfe of which time he opened an extcnfive trade with the natives; and having
coUcdted a cargo of furs, he proceeded to China, in the autumn of 17S7.
That in the month of January 1788, your Memorialift having difpofed of the Nootka,
he, in conjundion with feveral Britifli merchants refiding in India, purchafcd and fitted
out two other veffels, named the Felice and Iphigenia; the former your Memorialift
commanded, and the latter he put under the dircdion of Mr. William Douglafs. That
your Memorialift proceeded from China to the Port of Nootka, or King George's Sound,
which he reached in the month of May, and the Iphigenia arrived in Cook's River in the
month of June.
That your Memorialift, immediately on his arrival in Nootka Sound, purchafed from
Maquilla, the chief of the diftrift contiguous to, and furrounding that place, a fpot of
ground,
APPENDIX.
ift of
ground, whereon he built a heufe for his occafional refidence, as well as for the more con-
venient purfuit of his trade with the natives, and hoifted the Britiih colours thereon (
th he alio erefte I a bieaft-woik, which furrounded the houfe, and mounted one thrce-
pounder in front ; that having fo d )ne, your Memorialift proceeded to trade on the coaft,
the Felice taking her route to the Southward, and the Iphigenia to the Northward, con-
fining themfelvs within the limits of 60" and 450 30' North, and returned to Nootka
Sound in th : month of September ; that on your Memorialiil's arrival there, his people,
whom he had left bihind, had nearly compieated a veflel, which, previous to his depar-
ture, he had laid down ; and that the faid veflel was foon after launched by your Memo-
rialift, and called the Nerth-Weft America, meafuring about forty tons, and was equip-
ped with all expedition to aflill him in his enterprizes.
That, during the abfence of your Memorialift from Nootka Sound, he obtained from
Wicananilh, the chief of the diftridt furrounding Port Cox and Port Effingham, fituated
in the latitudes 48* and 49*, in confequence of confiderable prefents, the promife of a
free and txclufive trade with the natives ofthe.diflriR, and alfo his permifTion to build any (lore-
boufes, or other edifices, which he might judge neceflary; that he alfo acquired the fame
privilege of exclufive trade from Tatootche, the chief of the country bordering on the
Straits of John De Fuca, and purchafed from him a tra£t of land within the faid (Irait,
which one of your Memorialift's officers took pofleffionof in the King's name, calling the
fame Tatootche, in honour of the chief.
That the Iphigenia, in her progrefs to the Southward, alfo vifited feveral ports, and in
confequence of prefents to the chiefs of the country, her commander had ^iFurances
given to him of not only a free accefs, but of an exclufive trade upon that coafl, no other
European vcfTcl having been there before her.
That your Memorialift, on the 23d of September, having collected a cargo of furs,
proceeded in the Felice to China, leaving the Iphigenia and the North-Weft America in
Nootka Sound, with orders to winter at the Sandwich Iflands, and to return to the coaft
in the Spring. That your Memorialift arrived in China early in the month of December,
where he fold his cargo, and alfo the Ihip Felice.
That a few days after your Memorialift's arrival in China, the fliips Prince of Wales
and Princefs Royal, fitted out from the Port of London by MefTrs. John and Cadman
Etchea and Co. came to Canton from a trading voyage on the North Weft Coaft of Ame-
rica; and your Memorialift finding that they had embarked in this commerce under
licences granted to them by the Eaft India and South Sea Companies, which would not
expire until the year 1790, and apprehending at the fame time that the trade would fuf-
fer by a competition, he and his partners aflbciated themfelves with the faid MefTrs.
Etches and Co. and a formal agreement was executed in confequence between your Me-
morialift and Mr. John Etches, then fupracargo of the two ihips, making a joint ftock
D of
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APPENDIX.
I >
%
a.
of all the veffels and property employed in that trade ; and under that firm they pur-
chafei a (hip, which had been built at Calcutta, and called her the Argonaut.
That the Prince of Wales having been chartered to load teas for the Eaft India Com<
pany, foon after returned to England j and the Princefs Royal and Argonaut were ordered
by your Memori.ilid to fail for the coad of America, under the command of Mr. James
Colnett, to whom the charge of all the concerns of the company on the coaft had been
committed.
Mr. Colnett was dircfted to fix his refidencc at Nootka Sound, and, with that view,
to ereft a fubftantial houfe on the fpot which your Memorialift had purchafcd in the pre-
ceding year; as will appear by a copy of his inftruftions hereunto annexed.
That the Princefs Royal and Argoniut, loaded with ftores and provifions of all
defcriptions, with articles eftimated to be fufficicnt for the trade for three years, and a
veflel on board in frame, of about thirty tons burthen, lift China accordingly in the
months of April and May, 1789. They had alto on board, in addition to their crews,
feveral artificers of different profefTions, and near feventy Chinefe, who intended to be-
come fettlers on the American coad, in the fervice, and under the protedion of the af-
fociated company.
That on the 24th of April, 1789, the Iphigenia returned to Nootka Sound; and that
the 'North- Weft America reached that place a few days after: that they found, on their
arrival in that port, two American veflTels, which had wintered there ; one of them was
called the Columbia, the other the Wafliington : that on the 29th of the fame month,
the Nortk-Weft America was difpatched to the Northward to trade, and alfo to explore
the Archipelago of St. Lazarus.
That on the 6th of May, the Iphigenia being then at anchor in Nootka Sound, a
Spanilh (hip of war, called the PrincelTa, commanded by Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez,
mounting twenty-fix guns, which had failed from the Port of San Bias, in the Province
of Mexico, anchored in Nootka Sound, and was joined on the 13th by a Spani(h fnow of
fixteen guns, called the San Carlos, which vefTel had alfo failed from San Bias, loaded
with cannon and other warlike (lores.
That from the time of the arrival of the Prince(ra until the 14th of May, mutual civi-
lities palled between C^aptain Douglas and the Spani(h officers, and even fupplies were
obtained from Don Martinez for the ufe of the (hip; but on that day he. Captain
Douglas, was ordered on board the Princc(ra, and, to his great furprize, was informed
by Don Martinez, that he had the King's orders to feize nil (hips and vcffeh he might
find upon that coaft, and that he, the Commander of the Iphigeniii, was then his pri-
foner: that Don Martinez thereupon inftrudted his officers to take po(rc(rion of the Iphi-
genia, which they accordingly did, in the name of his Catholic Majcily, and the o(ficcrs
and crew of that (hip were immediately conveyed as prifoners on board the Spani(h (hips,
where they were put in irons, and were otherwife ill treated.
That
,:-!^(r
..siAtS;
APPENDIX.
That
That as foon a» the Iph'genia had been fetzptl, Don Martinez took poflTcfllon of the
iands belonging to jour Mcmorialift, on which his temporary habitation before mentioned
had been ercdled, hoifting thereon the ftjndard of Spain, and performing fuch ceremo-
nies as your MemorialiA underftands arc ufual on fuch occalions; declaring, at the fame
time, that all the lands comprized between Capo Horn and the fixticth degree of North
latitude did belong to his Catholic Majefty ; he then proceeded to build batteries, (lore,
houfes, &c. in the execution of which he forcibly employed fome of the crew of the
Iphigenia, and many of them who attempted to refift were very fevcrely puniihed.
That during the time the commander of the Iphigenia remained in captivity, he had
frequently been urged by Dun Martinez to fign an inihument, purporting, as he was in«
formed, (not underllanding himfelf the Spanifh language) that Don Martinez had found
him at anchor in Nootka Sound ; that he was at that time in great ditlrcfsi that he had
furniflied him with every thing neceffary for his pafl'age to the Sandwich iflands ; and that
his navigation had in no rcfpcdt been molefted or interrupted : but which paper, on in-
fpedtion of a copy thereof, delivered to Mr. Douglas, and hereunto annexed, (No. II.)
appears to be an obligation 'from him and Mr. Viana, the fecond captain, on the part
of their owners, to pay on demand the valuation of that veflel, her cargo, &c. in cafe
the Viceroy of New Spain Ihould adjudge her to be lawful prize, for entering the Port of
Nootka without the permidion of his Catholic MajcHy: that Captain Douglas, conceiv<
ing that the port of Nootka did not belong to his Catholic Majefty, did frequently refufe
to accede to this propofal ; but that Don Martinez, partly by threats, and partly by pro-
mifes of reftoring him to his command, and of furnifliing hiin with fuch fupplies of
(lores and provifions as he might (land in need of, ultimately carried his point; and hav-
ing fo done, he, on the 26th of the fame month, was rcftored to the command of the
Iphigenia, but rcftrained from proceeding to fea, until the return of the North-Weft
America ; infifting that he fhould then difpofe of her for 400 dollars, the price which one
of the American captains had fct upon her.
That during the time the Spaniards held pofleflion of the Iphigenia, flie was flripped
of all the merchandize which had been provided for trading, as alfo of her florcs, pro-
vifions, nautical inftruments, charts, &c. and, in fliorr, every other article (excepting
twelve bars of iron) which they could conveniently carry away, even to the extent of the
mafter's watch, and articles of cloathing.
That the commander of the Iphigenia, finding himfelf thus diftreffed, applied for re-
lief, and after much folicitation obtained a trifling fupply of ftorcs and provifions, for
which he wai called upon to give bills on his owners. The articles lb fupplied were
charged at a moft exorbitant price, and very unequal in quality or quantity to thofc
which had been taken from him.
That notwithllanding what had been infifted on by Don Martinez, refpefling the falc
of the North Weft America, he. had conftantly refulcd to difpofe of that vellel on anf
:> Da ground.
)|
'I't
■I
I
i
'■^('^
■J!
APPENDIX.
gteand, alleging that, as fhe did not belong to him, he had no right to difpore of her;
that the North-Weft America not returning Co foon as was expeAed, he, Capt. Douglas,
was told by Don Martinez, that on his ordering that vcflel to be delivered to him for
the ufc of his Catholic Majefty, he (hould have liberty to depart with the Iphigenia )
that ho accordingly, on the firft of ^une, wrote a letter to the maftcr of the North-Weft
America, but cautioufly avoided any dircdions to the effcd defired, (vide Iphigenia't.
Journal) and availing himfelf of Don Martinez's ignorance of the Engliih language, he
inftantly failed from Nootka Sound, though in a very unfit condition to proceed on fuch a
voyage, leaving behind him the two American veftels which had been fuffered to con-i.
tinuc there unmolefted by the Spaniards, from the time of their firft arrival ; that the
Iphigenia proceeded from thence to the Sandwich Iflands, and after obtaining there fuch
fupplies as they were enabled to procure with the iron before mentioned, returned to
China, and anchored there in the month of (Xtober, 1 789.
Your Memorialift thinks it neceflary upon this occafion to explain, that in order to>
evade the ezcellive high port charges demanded by the Chinefe from all other European
nations, excepting the Portuguefe, that he and his aflbciates had obtained the name of
Juan Cawalhoto their firm, though he bad no adtual concern in their ftock ; that Cawalho>
though by birth a Portuguefe, bad been naturalized at Bombay, and had refided there
for many years, under the prote£tion of the Eaft India Company, and had carried on aik
cxtenfive trade from thence to their feveral fettlements in that part of the world.
That the intimacy fubfifting between Cawalho and the governor of Macao had been the
principal caufi; of their forming this nominal conne<5tlon ^ and that Cawalho had in con-
lequence obtained his permiffion that the two ihips above mentioned, in cafe it fliould be
found convenient fo to do, fhould be allowed to navigate under, or claim any advantages,
granted to the Portuguefe flag.
That this permtflion had anfwered the purpofe of your Memorialift, (0 far as refpedled
the port charges of the Chinefe, until the return of the Iphigenia } but the Portuguefe
Governor dying foon after her departure, and CaWalho becoming a bankrupt, his cre-
ditors demanded his intereft in that flupi that your Memorialift having refifted their
claim, an application was made by them to the fucceeding governor for pofleftion of the-
fiiip; that the governor had, in confequence, inveftigated the tranfaAion, and finding^
that Cawalho had no a^ual concern or intereft in the properfyv obliged her to quit the
port } that this proceeding had fubjefted the Iphigenia at once to the iiKceafed port
charges, which were inftantly demanded by, and paid to, the Chinefe.
Your Memorialift has ftated this tranfaftion thus fully, in order to fhew that the Iphi-
genia and her cargo were a6tuaMy and boiidfidt Britifti property, as well as to explain the
occafion of the orders which were given to her commander, extracts of which accompany
this, and are referred to in the journal of that fliip» having beea under the infpedion of
Don Martinez^
Your
A P T» E N D I X.
Vour Memorlalill further begs leave to (late, that after the departure of the Iphigenia,
Don Martinez became apprized of the purport of the letter with which he had been fur-
niflied ; and that, on the return of the North- Weft America off the port of Nootka, on
the 9th of June, ihe was boarded and fcized by boats manned and equipped for war,
commanded by Don Martinez; that he did tow and convey the faid vcflcl into the Sound,
and anchoring her clofc to the Spaniih (liips of war, did then take poflefTian of her in the
itame of his Catholic Majcfty, as good and lawful prize ; that the above mentioned veflet
was foon after hauled alongfide of the Spaniih frigate ; and that the officers and men, to-
gether with the (kins which had been collected, amounting to 215, of the bed quality,
and alfo her (lores, tackle, and furniture, articles of trade, &c. were removed on board
the Spani(h frigate { that the commander of the North-Weft America, his officers and
men, were accordingly made prifoners, and Mr. Thomas Barnect, one of the officers of
that ve(rel, and fome of her men were, as appears by the affidavit of William Graham,
one of the feamen belonging to that velTel, hereunto annexed, (No. IV.) afterwards put
in irons.
That the Princefs Royal arriving a few days after the feizure of the North-Weft Ame-
rica, and being allowed by Don Martinez to depart, the (kins coUcifled by the laft men-
tioned ve(rcl (excepting twelve of the beft quality, which Don Martinez thought fit to
detain) were returned to the mafter, and, with the permiffion of Don Martinez, were
(hipped on board the Princefs Royal, for the benefit of the owners ; and that (hip, as
appears by her Journal, put to fea on the ad of July, to purfue the trade upon the coaft.
That Don Martinez, after feizing the North-Weft America in the manner and under
the circumftances above ftated, employed her on a trading voyage, from which (he re-
turned after an abfence of about twenty days, with feventy -five (kins, obtained by Britifh
merchandize, which had either been found in that velTel at the time of her capture, or
had been taken from the Iphigenia ; and that the value of the furs fo collcded cannot,
upon a moderate calculation, be eftimated at Icfs than 7,500 dollars, and which Don
Martinez had applied to his own advantage.
That the Argonaut arrived off" the Port of Nootka on or about the 3d of July, 1789,
That Don Martinez, on obferving her in the offing, boarded her in his launch, and with
expreffions of civility, promifed Mr. Colnett, her commander, every affiftance in hi&
power; that before the Argonaut entered the Sound, Mr. Thomas Barnett (who had be-
longed to the North-Weft America, and who was then a prifoner) came off in a canoe,,
and informed Mr. Colnett of the proceedings which had taken place, and of the danget
to which he was expofcd ; but that, under the afturances given by Don Martinez, that
the Argonaut (hould remain unmolefted, and being in wantof rcfrefbments for the cre\v>
Mr. Colnett proceeded into Nootka Sound.
That, notwtthftanding the afluranccs given by Don Martinez, he, on the next day,
fent the firft lieutenant of the Piincefla, with a military force, to take pofTeffion of the
Argonaut^
f
4\
P P E N D I X.
t ' K
h I
i '
Argonaut i nnd that ihip wat accordingly feizeil in the name of h'n Catholic Majcfty, th«
Britilh flag was hiukd down, and the Spanifh flag holfted in its Head.
Th»t on the fi-tzure of the Argonaut, her oliicers and men were made prifonera) and
Mr. Culnert was threatened to be hanged at the yard arm, in cafe of his refuling com>
pliance with any directions which might be given to him.
That on the 13th of July, the Princefs Royal, as is Aated in her Journal, again ap.
pcared ofl* the I'urr of Nootka ; that her commander approaching the Sound in his boat,
in cxpet^^ation of finding there the commnnder of the expedition, (from whom he was
dcfitous of receiving inAtudlions for his future proceedings) was fcized and made prifoner
I))" Don Martinez, and under threats of hanging him at the yard-arm, forced him to
lend orders to his officers to deliver up the I'rincefs Royal without contcft.
That a Spnnifh officer was ciifpatchcd into the offing with thefe orders ; and that the
veflcl was accordingly ft.'ized in the name of his Catholic Majefty, and brought into port ;
that her crew were in confequence made prifoncrs ; and that her cargo, confiding of 473
ikins, including 203 which had been put on board her from the North-Weft America, as
appears by the inclofed receipt, (No. V.) was feized.
That Mr. Colncrt, from the circumdances of his capture, became fu deranged, that
he attempted frequently to deflroy himfdf ; and that, according to the laft accounts re-
ceived, the ftate of his mind was fuch as to render him unfit for the management of any
bufinefs which might have been entrufltd to his care ; that in this melancholy fituation,
however, Don Martinez, notwithftanding the vcflel and cargo had before been formally
fcized, attempted to procure from him the falc of the copper, of which a principal part
of the cargo of the Princefs Royal had been compofedi and that fuch fale would adtually
have taken place, had not the other officers of that veflel, feeing Colnetc's infanity, pre-
vented ir.
Your Memorialift farther begs leave to reprefent, that the American Ihip Columbia
intending to proceed to China, the crew of the North-Weft America were ordered by
Don Martinez on board her ; principally, as your Memorialift underftands, for the pur-
pofe of aflifting her in her navigation to China, the greateft part of her own crew, as well
as of her provifions, having been previoufly put on board the Walhington, in order that
Ihe might be enabled to continue on the coaft.
That the Columbia having reduced her provifions confiderably from the fupplies (he
had fpared to her confort, was furniihed from the Argonaut, by order of Don Martinez,
with what was neccffary for her voyage, faid to be intended, however, for the fupply of
the North-Weft America ; that previous to the departure of the Columbia, ninety-fix
Ikins were alfo put on board her, as appears by the paper hereunto annexed, (No.VI.) to
defray the wages of the officers and crew of the North-Weft America, under a fup«
pofition that their late employers would be unable to liquidate tbcir demands ; firft de*
dufting.
APPENDIX.
dudttng, however, thirty per cent, from the fairs, which Don Martinez hid agreed flioutd
be paid for the freight on the faid flcins to the Arm-rican commnnvlen.
That the Colufnbia, thus fupplied, left Nuotka Sound accordingly, and proceeded to
the Southward i that a few days after (he entered Port Cox, where Ihc was joined by her
confort the Walhington, from whom (he received a confidorable number of (kins, con-
ceived to be the whole, excepting the ninety-fix before mentioned, which had been col-
ledled by the Americans and Spaniards, as w.:ll as by the Hriiiih traders; and with which,
after fparing a further qunntity of provifions to the Wa(hingfon, the Coiumbii proceeded
to China, where Hie arrived on the 2d of November, and landed thf*. crew of the North-
Weft America.
That the cicw of the North-VVcft America, previous to their leaving Nootka Sound
in the Columbia, faw the Argonaut proceed, as a prize, to San Bias; and that her of-
ficers and men, who were Euiopeans, were put on board her as prifoners; and that the
Princefs Royal was fliortly to follow, with her crew in confinement in the fame manner.
The Walhington, on joining the Columbia in Port Cox, gave information that the Prin-
cefs Royal had alio failed for San Bias.
That Don Martinez had thought fit, however, to detain the Chinefe, and had com-
pelled them to enter Into the fcrvice of Spain ; and that, on the departure of the Colum-
bia, they were employed in the mines, which had then been opened on the lands which
your Memorialift had purchafed.
Your Memorialift begs leave to annex a depoHtion of the ofTiccrs and crew of the
North-Well America, together with an extraft of the Journal of the Iphigenia, and alfo
fome letters which he has received from Mr. Diiffin, fecond officer of the Argonaut ;
which papers will ferve to throw confider.iLlc light on the feveral tranfadtions alluded to
in this Memorial : He alio has fubjoined a rtattment of the at^ual as well as the probable
lollcs which he and his aflTociates have fuftained from the unwarranrp.ble and unjuftifiable
proceedings of Don Martinez, in open violation of the treaty of peace fiibfifting between
this country and the Court of Sjviin, and at times and in fituations where, according to
the common laws of hofpitaliiv, they might have expedVed a different conduifl.
Your Memorialift therefore moft humbly begs leave to fubmit rhe c;Tfe of himfelf and
hisalTociatcs to the confidcration of Government, in full confidence th it the proper and
necclfary meafures will be taken to obtain that redrefs, which he and his alTociatcs have,
as Britifli fubjedts, a right to cxpcft.
Londortt lotb ef Apuly 1790.
(Signed)
JOHN MEARES.
Your Memorialift alfo begs leave to annex an acktiowlcdgment
given by Don Martinez, of his having obtained poflcflion of
the North-Weft America. (No. XI.) j. M.
\\
;ltl
No. II.
H-
APPENDIX.
N" II.
COPY of a LETTKR/ro« Mr. MEARLS t» CAriAiN COLNETT,
ditttH ipb April, 1789.
[/« >fr. Mcarcs's Memorial »/ 30/* Jpril, 1790. No. I ]
S 1 R,
Mmao, t7iti April, 17I9,
\f
' f
ill
SO loon as the Argonaut is ready for fca, you will proceed on
your voyage, and put into execution the fcveral plans wc have laid down, and with which
you are lb thoroughly acquainted; you are alfo Co perfectly informed of the bafis they
are founded on, that any recapitulation here would be needlefs. We place the flrongeft
reliance on your pcrfevcrance, temper and prudence, and are convinced that our hopes
can only be matured but through in exertion of thofe difpofitions. We (Ircnuoufly recom<
mend a moderate ufeof the powers you are invefted with, not only in your tranfaiflions
with (hips of foreign nations, — who mull be treated with that good faith and generofity
which form the charadtcriflic of the Englifh nation, and which muft turn ultimately to the
honour and credit of your employers, — bur. to all Ihips of our own nation, to whom we
deflrc you to be particularly attentive in cafes of diflrer$,or any other calamitous fituation
they may be thrown into. We imprefs on your mind this point, not only for the honour
and credit refulting to us from fuch a liberal line of conduA, but from the abfolute
neceflity of avoiding all fubjedt of difpute with foreign powers : we hope that no motive
whatever will induce you to deviate from this point { as we aflure you, that a commerce
that is not carried on with honour and refpedability, as well as humanity, would be
entirely repugnant to our feelings as men, and charadlers as Britifti merchants,— a charac-
ter, which appears to us in fo refpedlablea light, that no emolument, no advantage what*
ever, would perfuade us to countenance the fmalleft deviation from it in the perfons and
adts of thofe we employ.
Reports having been fprcad of great ads of cruelty and inhumanity being committed
by the crews of various velTels on the coaft of America, in their commerce with the
natives, we now embrace the earlieft opportunity of exprelling our utter abhorrence of
fuch boAile adts: wefmcerely hope that no perfon or perfons in our employ, will have
caufe to be reproached with any thing of this kind— adts, which we never will countenance
or protedt; on the contrary, we ihall ufe every means in our power to have the perpetrators
puniihed. We therefore moft particularly order, that if, in the courfe of your command,
any perfon or perfons whatever, in our eroployj ihall commit any murder on the natives of
5 America,
1?^ ^
1/
A P P i: N D I X.
Americ.1, or on others, that you fcizc thcoffcnilers, ami put them in iron*, aiul Icnil tlicui
to the npcnts in China, in order thut they may be broiip.ht to comli^n p.iniflimcnti \vc arc
lure ncceflltateil to tUvcU on this riil)jed, from the flronp; rcp^v^ ^( 'n«-'li atrocious a>it*
being committti), which arc at once not only iltllruftive ot the comnurce, but ol cvervfen-
tiuifnt of humanity; we recomiucnil a fteatly purfuance of a iiiildtoiulin.'t,as the only mean*
to cuUivutc the good-will of the natives, and draw them within the verpjes of civilized life.
Wc reconiniLiul in vou, if pofTible, to form i treaty with the various chiefs, particularly
near Nootka. If you happily accomplifli this, \in\ at once become polFeiFed of the furl
of ii great ''illrld witli honourand ctedir, and without iiKUMing a ftigma; and, if there i(
a polFibility of concpiering our competitors, we beg it may be if a mode honourable to
ourfelvcs, and conduced with as much gentrofity and humanity as a {\f\t\ attention to our
bufinefs will admit.
On the flrength of a treaty wc form confidcrabic hopes; for, although at the rtM>'".»ent
it may not be produdVive, yet in time it will be found the moft Itabic way of accompl *>-
ingour wiflics, and gaining the confidence of the chiefs, who are known to manage t!i«
commerce of their fubjeds: for this purpofe wc have ruj>plied you abundantly with every
article known to be had in eflimation atnong them; and i'.i anxious are we to have a good
underftanding, an«l the perfidiiig a treaty, that wt :iiithorite you to tyke under your pro-
tedion all our allies, and protcdt them from infult from all pcrfons whatever. Our fen-
timents on this head you will make known to all perfons whuif" it tM) concern, in order
that they may govern themfelves accordingly.
You will keep a diary of your proceedings, in which every minute occurrrni-e is to be
recorded j and you will forward this account of your proceedings, from time to tunc, by
all opportunities.
In planning a factory on thecoaft of America, wc look t.) a folid cftablifliment, and not
one that is to be abandoned at pleafurc. Wc authorifc jou to fix it at the moll conve-
nient ftation, only to place your colony in peace and ficurity, and fully protedcd from
the fear of the fmalleft finifter accident. The objed of a port of this kind, is to draw the
Indians to it, to lay up the fmall veflels in the winter fcafon, to build, and for other com-
mercial purpofcs. When this point is cfTcdcd, different trading houlls will be cftablilhed
at ftations, that your knowledge of the coaft and its commerce point out to be the moll
advantageous.
In the courfe of the fummcr we recommend your leaving fingle pcrfons to re fide with
fomc of your friends, the chiefs of the Charlotte Ifles, in order to colled the fursj the
natives, in full pcrfuafion of your returning to them, would keep back from our compe-
titors] and here at once you will perceive the advantages to be derived from conciliating
their confidence and good-will. To fuch people who are prone to ferve their employ-
ers, rewards Ihould be given, which ihould be agreeable to their fuccefs.
You are fo well acquainted with the American commerce, that it would be needlcfs
to dwell on the neccffity of hufbanding your articles of trade, of guarding againft the
E impofitions
APPENDIX.
li^
' '.'rl
impoficions of the native merchants, and of impreflling them with an Idea of the fuperi-
ority of your merchandife, &c. &c. The tide of fancy of thofe people may be turned ;
the ficklenefs of their difpofition is well known to you, as well as your ingenuity to us in
combating thofe difficulties. On the fall of the year we wifli all the fmall craft to be laid
up at the faftory, which you will name Fort Pitt.
You will invert Mr. R. Duffin with the fuperintendance of this ftation, and ftrenuoufljr
recommend him to keep good order and harmony therein ; to build ftorehoufes for the
reception of the tackle and furniture of the ftiipping that you may order to be laid up ;
and, above all, to recommend to him to ufe every precaution againft the fcurvy, by exer-
cife and the unremitting ufe of the dccoftion of pine tops.
You will, in the winter feafon, fend what veflels you judge proper to the Sandwich
Iflands for provifions, &c. In their return, we ima^ne that fome of the natives of thofe
ifles, both men and women, may be embarked and tranfplanted to America, and made
ufeful in our employ; this muft be done with their own confents, and with every precau>
tion with regard to their health as well as happinefs.
We defire the Argonaut may be returned to China the end of this feafon with the furs.
You will deliver her to Captain William Douglafs, and receive from him the Iphigenia and
America, ftiifting the crews, &c. &c. You will alfo receive his furplus trade, and all
otl tr ftores of that nature, and in return fupply him with refreflimcnts to carry him to the
iflands, where he ran procure a fupply.
The furs you fend to China, we defire may be well cleaned, and otherwife dreffed,
claflTed, and put into chefts; famples of each quality muft be put into a feparate box ;
every fkin, piece, and tail, muft be numbered, and a regifter kept of the whole, and tranf-
mitted to us, with your other difpatches, by Captain Douglas : in thefe you will be very
particular in advifing us of all articles wanted for the year 1790.
We recommend to your attention the ftate of the markets in China; the vaft difference
between good and bad fltins, as a guidance to your purchafes on the coaft; as 100 prime
ikins are moft affuredly worth 500 bad, independent of leflening the value of your articles
of commerce. All colleftions of furs, to the lateft period, you will fend home in the
Argonaut.
Sea-otters tails and feai 'kins now become an objeft, from the price they bear. — It will
be entirely needlefs to direft you in the purchafes of furs, where you are fo well ac-
quainted; this we leave entirely to yourfelf; but we cannot avoid reminding you, and
to defire a ftridt attention is paid, that no illicit commerce is carried on by any perfons
in our employ: on any circumftances of this kind, the offenders may depend on our
exacting, in the ftrifteft manner, the penalties which a breach of articles may incur. The
pay of officers of every defcription is extremely liberal; and we fliallefteem it the duty
of every individual to make known fuch circumftances of illicit commerce as may come
within their knowledge, as in our eyes it is equally criminal, and Ihews a great negleA
' . ■ ' ■ > of
APPEND
X.
will
ell ac-
and
erfons
n our
The
duty
come
eglcdt
of
of their employers' intereft, to either hide or ftifle fuch difcovery ; and you have our moft
pofitive orders, on fuch points coming to your knowledge, inflantly to difmifs fuch per-
fons, and thofe concerned, from our fervice; nor will we permit any deviation from this
point, except your reafons are ftrong and fufficient for purfuing a different line of
condudt.
We alfo authorife you to difmifs from your fervice all perfons who (hall refufe to obey
your orders, when they are for our benefit ; and, in this cafe, we give you to underftand,
the Princefs Royal, America, and other fmall craft, are always to continue on the coaft
of America; their officers and people, when the time of their fervice is up, muft be em-
barked on the returning Ihip to China; and on no account whatever will we fufifer a devi-
ation from thofe orders.
Should you meet with any of the (hips of MefTrs. Etches and Co. on the coaft, you
will of courfe afford them every afliftance in your power ; but as we Ihall have no intereft
in thofe ihips, if you ca i induce the commanders to trade on our joint account, it will
be moft agreeable to us; but no trading connexions whatever muft be, except on account
of the prefent company. To the perfon entrufted with the command of thofe fhips, you
will make known the nature of our connexions with Mr. Etches; you will in confequence
make a demand of all their furplus ftores, or articles of commerce, &c. they have
to difpofe of, in order that they may be left in the fadtory; and a particular account
muft be taken of all that are delivered, as they muft be accounted for to Mr. Etches by
the Company. We have no doubt but that your requiiicion will be complied with, as ic
ultimately tends to the good of their employers.
The number of competitors you will meet with on the coaft, will, we fear, fomewhat
diminifti your colledtion of furs, as well as enhance their price ; we have no doubt of your
activity and perfeverancr, as well as addrefs, in your negotiations. We place the ftrongeft
reliance on your vigilance and caution ; and as we have conferred on you the moft ample
powers, in return we look for confiderable refponfibility, and a happy completion of our
plans. In a full perfuaiion of this, we fhall take our leave, with a ftrong recommenda*
tlon of unanimity amongft your officers, and the ftridteft difcipline over your people.—
We wifli you health and a profperous voyage.
And remain, &c.
J. M E A R E S.
For Mefrs, Etches, Cox, and Cot
E a
Noi III.
f^^r
P E N D I X.
Wmk
m.
'I M'i.'v
I * i
11 >.,^>l
i
NO III.
EXTRACTS of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES to CAPTAIN COLNETT,
dated Macao, 25//^ Jpril, 1789.
lln ^Ir, MearesWUmoth] »/iht 20ih Aprii, 1790. To accompany Inclofurelio. l.'\
" WE have well-founded information, that Mr. Jaques, Mate of the Princefs
Royal, give copies of his own and Captain Hudfon's journals and charts to Captain Met-
calf, who commanded an American fhip, when he was in China. This aft of Mr.
Jaques we cfteem to militate fo extremely againft himfelf and our fervice, that we defire
you to return him to China.
" As it is probable, that in autumn, 1790, you may meet with a (lore fliip from
England, on the company's account, we have the ftrongeft hopes, that fhould that event
happen, that from her you will form the entire eftablifliment of the coaft on fuch reafon>
able terms under the prefenr, that will meet our fatisfaftion, and enable the Company,
through the medium of oeconomy, to dcftroy all competition. It is probable, however,
that all thofe engagements may be fettled in England prior to the departure of the ftore-
fliip: in this cafe you will refign the charge of your concerns to thofe who are appointed to
manage the fame, and return, with the officers and people who are imprcfl'ed from China,
in the ftore-fliip, or the Argonaut, whichever you think mod eligible} but we rather
apprehend that, by the above period, you will have fo much tonnage on the coafl, that
it will be necdlcfs detaining the Argonaut, more particularly as we (hall want her in 1791,
to return her again to the coaft. We have nothing more to repeat in addition to the
former orders." «
NO IV.
OBLIGATION TO RESTORE THE SHIP IPHIGENIA TO HIS CATHOLIC
MAJESTY IF DEEMED A LAWFUL PRIZE.
[/« Mr. Meares's Memorial of iht ^oth Jpri/, 1790. No II.]
ON board His Majcfty's Frigate, called Our Lady of the Rofary, alias the
Princefs, 25th May, of faid year; I, D" Francis Jofeph Viana, and Don William
Douglas, the firft Captain, and the feconJ Supracargo of the Packet-boat Iphigenia
Nubiana,
N
I X..
Nubiana, at anchor In this Port of St. Lawrence of Nootka, being empowered by D"
declare bind
John Cawalho, inhabitant of and trader at Macaoj We fay that we oblige ourfelvcs (in
name of faid Cawalho, to whom belongs faid Packet-boat) to fatisfy whomfoever Ihall
prefent to us the import of valuation by experienced perfons of faid veflel, with lading
and other appurtenances on board j and in order the better to certify in the antecedent
inventory, in cafe that H. E. the Viceroy of New Spain may judge the faid packet-boat,
the Iphigenia, to be a prize, on account of having found us at anchor in faid Port of
Nootka, without having a paflport, permiffion, or particular from
His Catholic Majefty for fo doing, that is, for navigating or anchoring in feas or ports
bind
belonging to his dominions. For all which we oblige ourfelves to the faid D" John
bind
Cawalho, as lawful owner of faid packet, and we oblige ourfelves in his name, in all
lawful form, with our perfons and effedts, prefent and future, to the fatisfadtion of the
value
quantity of contents of faid inventory, marts, (lores, cargo, &c. contained in faid in-
ventory j fubjedling ourfelves, as we do fubjedt ourfelvcs, to the laws, pragmatic fane-
tions, and ordinances of faid Sovereign} and renouncing, as we do renounce, all laws,
liberties, and privileges, which might favour us, without it being neceffary in the exhi-
value
bition of the faid quantity, in which we may be condemned, to have recourfe to law-fuit ;
iinftamped
for although this obligation be inade upon fimple paper, we give it as much force and
value as if it were a w^riting made before a royal or public notary, and for its force we
fign three of one tenor, one being fulfilled, the others to be of no value, which we have
figned with our hand and fignature, and authorized by the Commandant D" Stephen
Jokph and by the proper Notary, Raphael de Canizares, on
faid day, month, and* year, being witnefles thereto D» John Kendrick, Commander of
the Bofton frigate, named the Columbia, and D" Jofeph Ingraham, fecond captain and
firft pilot of faid frigate; and of this I give faith — Francis Jofeph Viana — William
Douglas — John Kendrick — Jofeph Ingraham— Stephen Jofeph Martinez— Raphael de
Canizares.
This is a literal copy of the Obligation, of which triplicates were figned at
the foot of the inventory made of the faid packet-boat of Macao, whereof
I certify. On board the Princefs frigate, 26th May, 17S9.
RAPHAEL DE CANIZARES.
No Y.
(\
i
•1
APPENDIX.
%>
NO V.
EXTRACT of a LETTER from Mr. MEARES to Capt. WILLIAM DOUGLAS,
Commanding the IPHIGENIA; dated at Sea, 2d February, 1788.
,- [/» Mr. Mures 's Memorial «///^ 30/A^n7, 1790. No III.]
O N your return to Macao you will feal up your log-book, charts, plans, &c.
&c. &c. and forward them to Daniel Beale, Efquire, Canton, who is the ollenfible agent
for the concern; and you have the mod particular injundions not to communicate, or
give copies of any charts or plans that you may make, as your employers aflert a right to
all of them, and as fuch will claim them.
Should you, in the courfe of your voyage, meet with the veflels of any other nation,
you will have as little communication with them as pofTible ; jhould they be of fuperior
force, and defire to fee your p'apers, you will fhcw them. You will be on your guard
againfl: furprize. Should they be either Ru(Can, Englifli, Spanifli, or any other civilized
nation, and be authorized to examine your papers, you will permit them, and treat them
with civility and friendfliip; but at the fame time you mud be on your guard. Should
they attempt to feize you, or even carry you out of your way, you will prevent it by
every means in your power, and repel force by force; you will on your arrival proteft
publickly, before a proper officer, againft fuch illegal procedure, and afcertain, as near
as you can, the value of your cargo and veflel, and fend fuch proteft, with a full account
of the tranfadion, to us at China.
Should you, in fuch confliA, have the fuperiority, you will then take polTeffion of the
veflfel that attacked you, as alfo her cargo, and bring both, with the officers and crew, to
China, that they may be condemned, and their crews puniihed as pirates.
■ ' NO VI. ^
EXTRACT of a LETTER /row Mr. MEARES to Mr. R. FUNTER, Second Officer of the
FELICE, commanding the AMERICA ; dated Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, i oth Sept. 1 7 8 S.
[/» Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of the yiih j/prll, 1790. Te accompany Inclofure No III.]
YOU are, on no account, to hoift any colours until fuch time as your employers
give you orders for this purpofe, except on taking pofTeffion of any new difcovered land j
you will then do it, with the ufual formalitv, for the Crown of Great Britain.
No VII.
APPENDIX.
NO VII.
THE INFORMATION OF WILLIAM GRAHAM.
&c.
[In Mr. Mtuts's Mcmotial »/ lie ^oih jfprll, tjqo. No IV.]
MiMeffx, 1 The Information of William Graham, of Grub Street, Mariner, taken
to wit, J before me Sir Sampfon Wright, Knight, one of His Majefty's
Jiiftices of the Peace for the faid County of MiddlefeXj this 5th
Day of May, 1790.
)loyers
land }
WHO, being on oath, fays. That on or about the month of September, 1788,
he entered himfelf on board the veffel called the North-W^ft America, then lying in
King George's Sound, on the North-Weft Coaft of America, belonging to Mr. John
Meares, a merchant trading in thofe parts : And further fays. That he faw faid veffel
launched in faid harbour under Britifh colours, and navigated under the Britiih flag, and
that flie was commanded by Robert Funter, who is a Britifh fubjeft.
And this Informant further fays. That faid fhip was trading on account of faid John
Meares on the North-Weft Coaft of America, between the latitudes of 60° and 45" North,
for furs, a large number of which they had purchafed and got on board ; and that being
in want of provifions, they failed from the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, where they had
been fo trading as aforefaid, and returned to King George's Sound for a frefli fupply of
provifions, at which time the natives were bringing great quantities of furs for fale.
And this Informant further fays. That when the faid veffel arrived in theOfEngof
faid King George's Sound, a number of boats came out of faid Sound, and feized faid
veffel, and condud:ed her into faid Sound ; that one of faid boats had a gun in her bow,
and all the people on board the boats were Spaniards, and were armed with cutlaffes,
piftols, and mufquets ; that they took poffeffion of faid veffel in the name of the King of
Spain, and made this Informant and the reft of the crew prifoners.
That on entering faid Sound in manner aforefaid, he, this Informant, faw two Spanifti
men of war lying there, one carrying twenty-fix guns, called the Princeffa, and the other
twenty-four guns, called the St. Carlos, with fcveral hundred men on board, and carry*
ing the Spanifti flag.
That the Spaniards who had boarded faid veffel as aforefaid, brought her to an anchor
clofe to faid frigates, and put the captain and crew of faid veffel on board faid frigates ;
that they then took out of faid veifel all the furs and other merchandize, and put the
fame
»'('
/*•
APPENDIX.
1^ -
fame alfo on board faid frigates, and then hoined the Spanifli flag on board the veHel
they had fo captured.
That the Spaniards entreated this Informant, and the reft of the crew of faid veflel,
to enter thcnifelves as fcamen on board faid frigates, which they all rcfiifed to doj that
Hiid Spaniards then put the crew of faid vcflcl in irons, and fed them with horfe-beans
and water for the fpace of about three weeks, and beat and otherwife ill treated fcvcr.il
of them.
And this Informant further fays, That he was informed that the name of the officer who
commanded laid frigates is Stephen Jofcph Martinez ; and he alfo further fays, that if
faid Vi.flel could have continued longer in the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, from whence
flie was obliged to return to King George's Sound through want of provifion, or if fhe
had got a fupply of prcvifions at Hiid Sound, and gone back to the Archipelago (from
which (lie was prevented by being captured as aforefaid) he is well afllired that they
lliould have collefted a large quantity of furs and other merchandize, and that the voy-
age would have been very advantageous to the parties interefted therein.
That foon after the capture of faid veffel as aforefaid, flie was fitted out, and fent on a
trading voyage, by Aiid Stephen Jofcph Martinez, manned with Spaniards, bearing the
Spanilh flag, and having alio on board one David Coolidge, mate of the floop Wafliing-
ton, belonging to the Ui-.ifcd States of America, which was then lying in faid Sound j and
in the month of July following, faid velTel returned to faid Sound, having on board a
conddeiablc (juantity of otter-fliins, which he, this Informant, faw taken out of faid
velR'l, and put on board faid frigates.
That on the 14th day of the month of June, 1789, the Princefs Royal merchant fliip
of London, belonging to faid Mr. Meares and others, and commanded by Mr. William
Hudfon, came into faid Sound with Britifh colours flying, and anchored near the faid
frigates ; that faid veflel, I'rinccfs Royal, lay in faid Sound a few days, and then failed"
(having firft obtained thi.- permiflion of faid Martinez fo to do) without any other inter-
ruption or moleftation whatever.
That on or about the 3d of July, the Argonaut, a merchant fhip appeared in the Offing
of faid King George's Sound, commanded by James Colnett; that faid Martinez equipped
a launch with twenty men and upwards, and went wi:h the fame himfelf, accompanied by
Richard Howe, an American, and fiipracargo of the Ihips Columbia and Wafliington, be-
longing to the United States of America, and then lying in faid found) on board faid
Argonaut ; that faid Argonaut failed into, and anchored in, faid Sound with Br'tifti co-
lours flying i that the next morning the Argonaut wanting to put to fea, was prevented by
faid Martinez, who feized faid veflTel with an armed force, took the captain and crew on
board faid frigates, and put them in irons ; that faid Martinez ordered the Britifli colours
on board the Argonaut to be hauled down, and the, Spanifli colours to be hoifted, and
fired a gun on board the Argonaut, and took poflcflTion of the veflel in the name of His
5 Catholic
A P
N D
X.
Catholic Majeftvj that faid Martinez then ordered all the property on board faid Argo*
naut to be removed on board faid frigates; that on the 13th day of July, the before-
mentioned vcfl'cl the Princefs Royal appeared in the Offing of faid King George's Sound,
and that Robert Hudfon, Mafter of faid vcllel, came into faid Sound in his boat ; that
faid Martinez immediately feizcd faid boar, together with faid Hudfon and the boat's
crew, on whom fevcral Spanifh foldiers, who were on board the Argonaut and the Prin-
ceflk (one of faid frigates) fired with ballj that when faid Hudfon came alongfide faid
frigate in his boat, the crew belonging to faid frigate beat faid Hudfon and his men, and
threw faid Hudfon down the after hatchway of faid frigate, faying, " Get down, you
Englifh dog," and afterwards put him in the cabin under a guard of foldiers; that the
Spaniards then launched two boats, armed with cutlaflcs, &c. which went on board the
Princefs Royal, and brought her into the Sound ; that they then fired a gun on board her,
hauled down the Engliih and hoiftcd Spanilh colours on board her, and put the crew, all
the merchandize, and other property that was in her, on board one of faid frigates, and
took poUeffion of faid Princefs Royal in the name of HisCatholic Majcfty j that at this time
he, this Informant, faw twoSpanifli batteries which were credcd on fliore in fliid Sound,
the one mounted fixteen guns, and the other fevcn guns, with the Spanilh flag flying
thereon.
And this Informant further fays, that he remained in confinement on board one of faid
Spanifli frigates for the fpacc of three weeks, and was then put on board the aforefaid
American veffe\ the Columbia, in order to return to China ; that before faid veflel failed,
he, this Informant, was fevcral times on board the Argonaut, where he faw Captaia
Colnett and his officers confined in the cabin, and the crew in the fore-hatchway in irons.
And this Informant further fays, that he failed from China on board the Felice, and
arrived in fiiid King George's Sound in the month of May, 1788; that in about a fort-
night or three weeks after their arrival he faw Mr. Meares deliver fome articles of mer*
chandize to Mnquilla, the fovereign prince of the faid Sound, which he then undcrflood
and believed were given as a confidcration for lands which the faid Mr. Meares had re-
quired for an eftabliffiment on ftiorc ; that faid Mr. Meares did ereft a building and other
conveniencics on faid land, and that the fame were taken pofl'cffion of by faid Martinez,
who railed a battery of two guns, and hoifted the Spanifli flag thereon.
And this Informant fays, that there were a number of men, natives of China, at faid
Sound, who had been taken thither by faid Mr. Meares ; and that faid Martinez refufed
to let them return to China, and employed them in eredting batteries and other works,
and, as he hath becii informed, in digging in the mines.
That while he was on his paflage in the Columbia to China, he faw a quantity of furs
put on board faid veflel from fiiid Princcfla, and that the name Martinez was ftamped or
marked thereon; that in Port CoCc, in their way to China, (and where the Wafliington
and Columbia met) he alfo fuv a number of furs put on board the CcUimbia from the
VVafliington.
F And
W
V'Sfc,"?^
-.^.^..-..
APPENDIX.
And this Informant hereby acknowledges, That he has received froiQ faid Mr. Mcarcs
all the wages due to htm from the time of his embarking on board the Felice as afore-
feid, to the time of his arrival in China on board the Columbia} and fays, that the prin-
cipal reafon of his coming to Europe was to give information of the before-mcntioncd
tranfadions.
That when he was at Port Cofe, in the Columbia as aforcfaid, Captain Kendrick, who
commanded faid vefTel, told this Informant that if he would not fign articles to afTid in
navigating her to China, he would turn him afliore among the Indians; and in confe-
quence of faid threats, he figned faid articles; and he, this Informant, is of opinion,
that if he and others under the like circumllances had not given fuch aiTillance, they
could not have carried faid veflel to China : but he did not receive any recompcncc for
fuch fervice.
WILLIAM GRAHAM.
Sworn before me the day and
year above written,
SAMPSON WRIGHT.
NO VIII.
T.HUDSON'S RECEIPT FOR TWO HUNDRED AND THREE
SEA-OTTER SKINS.
If) '
S
P' i
[In Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of 30/A Jpril, 1790. No. V ]
yuly 2d, 1789, in Fritttdly Cove, Nootka Sound.
RECEIVED from Robert Funter, two hundred and three fcaotter Ikins, num-
bered I to 815, in good order and well conditio;ie I, of which numbers, twelve are
wanting, viz. No. 96, 17c, 179, 180, 163, 197, 199, 202, ao'j, 204, 105, and 208, which
I promife to deliver in the like good order and condition at Macao, Canton, or any other
port where they may be ordered by the eftabliflied Company of Merchants trading from
the above ports to this coaft.
Witnefs my hand this 2d day of July, 1789,
T, HUDSON.
203 fkins.
No. IX.
APPENDIX.
' • '■•"V- NO IX. .,
CERTIFICATE «/ NINETY. SIX SKINS beks pppeH on board the QOUJMSiA.
[In Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of 2pth Jpril, 1790. No. VI.]
OF the ninety-fix /kins, wliich I have permitted to be embarked on board the Co-
lumbia, to Captain Robert Fiinter, and Pilot Thomas Barnet, on their account, they
(hall pay to the Captain of faid frigate, John Kendrick, the c<irrefponding freight for
faid (kins, as alfo the fupport of the crew, and payment of faid individuals ; becaufe thn
tlicy might not lofc their labour and pain, I have given this permifllon, leaving to the
faid captain and pilot their right, apart, to demand of Don John Cawalho, in whofe
fcrvice they were, of tht London Company of Free Trade, as this has fatisfied the cxpences
incurred by faid Cawalho in his vefleis by means of the purchafc.
On board this frigate under my command, in
the Port of St. Lawrence of Nootka, 14th
July, 1789.
(Signed) STEPHEN JOS. MARTINEZ.
This is original copy of an order, which they fay Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez, Cap.
tain of the Spanilh frigate, gave.
Canton, ad December, 1789.
Witnefs,
HtNRY HuPMAN, Third Supercargo.
Mamuel Netgole, Firft Supercargo
of the Philippine Company.
\4
NO X.
* ■ -
DEPOSITION of the OFFICERS and MEN of the Schooner NORTH-WEST AMERICA.
(/« Mr. Mearcs's Memorial of yith jlpril, 1790. No. VII.]
WE, the undermentioned Captain and Seamen of the North-Weft America, a
veflilof forty tons burthen, or thereabouts, built in King George's Sound, on the iNotiii
Weft Coaft of America, by Captain John Metres, agent for the Society of Bricifli M; r-
1' * . chaats
'M
kx
\i
E N I) I X.
lf\
1(1
chants trading to thofc parts, and launcliccl under the colours of Great Britain, make
vatii before the Chief Supercargo of tliu Honourable Eid India Company rcfidcnt at
Canton ;
That in the month of September, in the year of our Lord 1 788, the carpenters of the
faid John Mcares did, with the aflTinancc uf divers natives of America, buiUI, launch,
and equip a fchooncr of forty tons, or thereabouts, in the found or port difcovered by
the late Captain James Cook, nn.I named by him King George's Sound, in honour of
our moft gracious fovercign; that the fiid John Mearcs did name the faid veflci the
North-Weft America, as the firft vetTel ever built in that part of the world; that (he was
equipped at a great and heavy expence of ftores, tackle, and furniture, particularly
iron, the moft valuable commodity in thofe parts; that all thofe ftores, iron, &c. were
conveyed to the American coaft, with infinite labour, coft, charge, and expences, on
the fliip Iphigenia, as appears by her books of outfit and c(juipment ; that the faid John
Meares did appoint Mr. Robert Funter mafter of the North Weft America, deeming
him a full and fufHcient perfon to conduct her commerce and guidance, and did alfo ap-
point Peter Henry, Robert Davidfon, and John Eaft, quarter-mafters of the faid
fchooner, as well as Thomas Thiftlewood, V/illiam Graham, and John Clarke, ma-
riners, all fubjefls of the crown of Great Britain ■ »nd alfo aiTifting, a native of China, a
carpenter, and Alfcc and Aehaw, mariners of whe fai.ic country, to compofe her crew,
to trade along the North-Weft coaft of America, on account and for the benefit of the
aflfociated merchants of Great Britain trading to thofe parts ; and that we, the above-
mentioned people, have been paid our full ami juft wages agreeable to jufticc, from the
time of our firft failing from China until the time of our return, as the books oi outfit
tvill ihew, and agreeable to our receipts.
That on the 9th of June, i"; H >, being returned to King George's Sound from a trac-
ing expedition amongft the Charlotte's Illes, unfufpeding enemies or other hoftile at-
tacks, there did come from thence boats manned and equipped for war, commanded by
Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, commander of two fhips of war of His Catholic Majefty
then in King George's Sound, and did tow or convey the faid North-Weft America, her
crew, tackle, cargo, and furniture, into the faid Sound, and did anchor her clofe to the
Spanifli (hips of war, and then did take polllflion of the fchooner, her tackle, cargo,
furniture, goods and chatties of the affociated merchants, in the name of His Catholic
Majefty, and as a good and lawful prize.
That the faid fchooner North-Weft America did barter and trade with the natives of
the North-Weft coaft of America, for two hundred and fifteen fea-otter (kins of good and
prime quality j that the faid number of two hundred and fifteen fea-otter (kins were put
on board of the floop Princefs Royal, of London, belonging to the affociated merchants,
for their ufe and advantages.
That
Hi
m
■Ki^iK 1
M^n'
H^
HI&
I N
1 X.
That
That the fait! Robert Funter and his c v were re oved prifonprs on board the fatd
Spanith fhips of war, to their vexation, dci ncnt, auJ loft; and ihat the f.iid fchoun er
North-Weft America was taken out of his care, and given up to the plunder of the Tub-
jcdls of His Catholic Majcfty ; that the colours of Spain were hoifted on board the faid
North-Weft America} that every formality was ufed by the Spaniards, by fprinklirg.
holy-water, &c. on the above vcircl» in order to cover their unjuft and cruel pro-
ceedings.
That the quantity of trade and commerce on board the North-Weft America, when
taken by the Spmiards, was great and confiderable ; and that being in want of provifions*-
Ihe returned to King George's Sound, in the folc hopes of meeting with fomc of the
ihips of the aflbciated merchants, to receive from them the fupplies wanted ; that num-
bers of (kins were left behind amongft the Charlotte's Ides ; and vvc do aver, to the btft-
of our belief, that had there been fuflicient provifions on board the fchooner, fo as to
have permitted her further flay, that one thoufand fea-otter Ikins would have been col- ■
Ictftcd, in addition to the two hundred and fifteen above-mentioned: and we further
make oath. That the detention in King George's Sound, by Don Jofcph Stephen Mar'
tinez, was to the ruin of the voyage, and the irreparable lofs of the aflbciated mcr*
chants.
Thac the faid North Weft America was immediately equipped and manned by Don.
Jofeph Stephen Martinez, with Spanifli officers and fcamen, with Mr. David Coolidge,
firft mate of the floop Wafliingron, of the United States of AHicrica, a pilot ; that lh&.
failed from King George's Sound under the Spanifti flag on a trading voyage j that in the
month ot July ftie returned to the faid Sound with a cargo of fevcnty-five fea-otter fkins^-
or upwards, to the heavy lofs of the aflTociated merchants.
That we do further make oath, That Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer to Mr.
Robert Funtcr to go as pilot to the fchooner, to fliew the different harbours where fkins-
wcrc robe collcdcd, and to trade along the coaft; and as an inducement to accept of
this ftation, the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did offer unto the faid Mr. Robert
punter the half of all furs or valuables coUetfled during the voyage; and the faid Mr.
Robert Funtcr having acquired a confiderable knowledge of the trade of the Noith-Weft
coaft of America, was prcH'cd by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to difcover the nature of
the commerce, and to enter into their fervice. And we do further make oath, That
thofe offers of Don Jol'ciih Stephen Martinez were rejcfted with indignation, as incom-
patible with our being in the fervice of the affociated merchants.
That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did make ule of all manner of threats -
and other unlawful endeavours of puniihments and imprifonments, &c. &c. &c. to in-^
duce the faid Robert Funter to make fomc inftrument of writing, whereby the li^^ht and
trtle of faid fchooner North-Weft America, fhould be conveyed to the above Don Jofeph
Stephen Martinez; that all thole cHbrts and threats were fuftained without giving luch
\'-\
..,^,jg™..^
-«>,;
N
I X.
h
n
;
an inftrunient in writing : And do furtlier make oath, That of the two huinlrcd and
fit'tcon fca-otter Ikini collcdcd on board the North-VVcft Americn, twelve were eltht-r
lod or flolen on board the Spanilh fliip PrincefTa, which reduced the above number of
two hundred and fifteen to two hundred and three (kins, which were put on board the
Princcfs Royal.
That on or about the 14th of July, the Princefs Royal of I-ondon, being in want of
wood and wafer, and o(herwife much diftrefTcd, did f:iil into King Giorgc's Sound, and
did anchor near to the Ships commanded by the faid Dun Jol'cph Stephen Martinez; and
that Mr. William Hudfoo, raafler of the above vcfl'cl, finding the fchooncr North Weft
America, belonging to thfe airociated merchants, uiih cargo and tackle, ^c. fei/.cd by
the Spaniards, did receive on bo^ird the faid (loop Princcfs Rnyal, with the leave rnd
licence of Don Jofej)h Stephen Murtincz, the number of two hundred and three prime
fca-otter (kins, on account of the aflbcinted merchants; the f.id Don Jofeph Stephen
Martinez having determined to capture the hull and tjckle of the North Wi ft America,
but liberate the cargo of the above number of two hundred and three fea-otter (kins.
That the above (loop Princefs Royal, William Hudfon, ma(^er, did put to fea out of
Nootka Sound, having on board the above cargo of the affociated merchants, and
after having (igned a receipt for the above ikins, which receipt is attached to this
affidavit.
And we do further make oath, that the receipt attached to this affidavit, is the true
•and juft receipt received from William Fjudfon, mafter of the Princefs Royal.
And we do make oath, that the (hip Argonaut, commanded by Lieutenant James
Colnett, of his Majcfty's navy, and belonging to the a(rociated merchants, did arrive
off King George's Sound, on or about the 3d of July 1789; and that Don Jofeph Stephen
Afartinez perceiving the faid veiTel in the offing, did man and equip a launch with feventy
men and upwards, and went himfeif, accompanied by Mr. Richard Howe, an American,
and fupercargo of the (hips Coluniba and Wafliington, belonging to the United States
of America, and then in King George's Sound, and went on board the faid fhlp Argonaut,
where he was received with every friend(hip and civility; that the Argonaut being come
ofTalong voyage, and otherwife much dif^rcflfed, was enticed and d«coyed into the faid
Sound by the a(rurance!j and refting on the faith of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, who
promifed him every adiflance and friendfhip; and that the ihip Argonaut having in
confcquence of this, entered King George's Sound, was boarded by armed boats equipped
■from the Spanifh (hips, and feized and made a prize of, her officers, crew, and cargo, in
the name of his Catholic Majefty, by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinezj and that the officers
and crew were immediately removed on boatd the Spanifh (hips, and the Britifh ihip
Argonaut was given up by Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez to plunder, not only the
goods, &c. of the aflbciated tnetC'haats, .bcut the private moveables aiid valuables of
the officer! and crew. •
That
V
s*»- — .
APPENDIX.
That Don Jufcph Sicplu-n Martinez, with |)ricrt» a<m\ all due form.iliiies, hoiflcJ the
flag of Spain on the Brit (h fliip Argonaut, ami did threaten Captain Jimii Colncff,
that if he «lid not comply with all orders, injuudtioni, and other dcminds, that they
would imincdiatcly hang the faid Captain James Colnctt at the yaid arm, whi«.h prcllcd
fo forcibly on the mind of the faid Colnett, that it deprived him of his fenfcsj that he
made nptated attempts to dittroy himfelf, and did once jump out of the cabin windo.v
into the Tea, and was with difliculty favcd.
That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, being in poflcfljon of the (hip Argonaut,
did take out of her the grcatcft part of her copper trade, armi, great guns, amn»uniiion,
provifions, tar, pitch, canvas, and other naval (lores, with all the charts, inllruin?nts, &c.
of the officers.
VVc do further tnakc (»ath, that the journal of the fhip Argonaut was true and faith-
fully delivered by Mr. Robert DulHn, firrt oflicer of the faid Ihip, to Mr. Robert Funtcr,
mailer of the N. W. America, as well as the letters (igned Robert Duffin, and addrclltd
to John Mearcs, agent for the aflbciatcd Britifli merchants trading to the North WeU
coafl of America, which journals or letters arc attached to this affidavit.
And we do make oath, that on the ijth of July the Hoop Princcfs Royal of London
was out at fca, in the offing of King George's Sound, and that Mr. Robert Hudfon,
marttrol the faid (loop, did take his boat and row into the faid Sound, and that himfilf,
boat iind crew, were feizcd by Don Jofeph Stephen Mininez, who made pnfoners of
them ; and did by force and threats of hanging him at the yard arm, get the laid Wil-
liam Hudfon to write a letter on board the Prin:cfs Roval, then lying olF at fca, to
deliver up without conteft the above (loop; and that Don Joleph Stephen Martinez did
order his I'econd Lieutenant, named Montefare, to take armed boats, equipped for war,
and go on board the Piinccfs Royal, and deliver the faid written Utter to the com-
manding oflicer on board ; and that thole boats did accordingly go to the Princefs Royal,,
and did lei/.i- her, and with force confined the crew below the d ck, and diil carrv her
into King George's Sound, when Don Joleph Stephen Mirtincz did order the Spaniih
colours to be hoilUd on the Princels Royal, and captured her officers, crew, cargo, tacklc»
and furniture, in the name of his Catholic Majtily.
That to the beft of our knowledge and belief, the faid Princefs Roval had on boards
two hundred and feventy prime ("ea otter (kins belonging to the a(r()ciati(i merch.mts,
as well as two hundred and three prime fea otter (kins received from Mr. Robert Funter,
matter of the N. W. America, making in all four hundred and feventy three prime lea-
otter (kins, all which were feized by the faid Jofeph Stephen Martinez, in the naiiie of
his Catholic Majedy.
That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did take pofleffionj with all due form^
&c« &c. of the Princefs Royal of London. And we do further make oath, that Don
-Jofeph Stephen Martinez did giv? us, the above-mentioned Mr. Robert Funter and lea-
' a men.
H
4
t 1.
A P P
N
I X.
men, leave and licence to tcturn to China in the American fhip Columbia ; and that we
did embark on board the fame fliip, and did return to China on the 2n 1 of November,
1789; and that previous to our leaving King George's Sound, and the- North-VVefl coaft
of America, we did fee fail out of the faid port, the Britifh (hip Argonaut under the Spa-
ni(h flag, a prize to Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez, having on board Captain James
Colnett, Mr. Robert Duffin, and the greater part of her crew, with a guard of fifty Spa-
nifh fcamen, bound to the Spanilli port of St. Bias, in the latitude of 21" or thereabouts,
agreeable to the orders of Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez; and that Jofeph Tobar, firft
Lieutenant of the Spanifti fliip Princefla, was in command of the Argonaut on her leaving
King George's Sound ; and that the Columbia, and the American (loop Wafliington did
depart from King George's Sound together, unmolefted in any meafure by the Spaniards,
but on the contrary in full friendihip and alliance, leaving in that Sound Don Jofeph
Stephen Martinez, with his two Ihips, and the floop Princefi Royal and the N. W Ame-
rica as prizes. That the Columbia and Wafliington did fleer to a harbour to the South-
ward of King George's Sound, where they fcparated, the Columbia returning to China,
and the Wafliington remaining on tho coad.
That we do further make oath, that Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did order a certain
RUmberof fea-otter fkins (the number of which wc cannot afcertain) to be put on board
the American (hip Columbia, previous to her and the Wafliington 's leaving King George's
Sound, and that the fame fliip Columbia did go to fea with tliofe /kins on board; and on
the arrival of the two American fliips at the port above-mentioned to the Southward, Mr.
John Kendrick, mafler of the fliip Columbia, did leave the faid fliip, and go on board
the floop Wafliington, taking the above-mentioned Spanifli Ikins with him; and Mr.
Robert Grey, mafler of the floop Wafliington, did go on board the fliip Columbia, and
took charge of the faid fliip, quitted the couft of America, and returned to China as
above-mentioned, leaving the floop Wafliington in the above-xnentioncd harbour to the
Southward.
And we do further make oath, that the provifions agreeable to the receipt attached to
this affidavit, were put on board the fliip Columbia, by order of Don Jofc|,h Stephen
Martinez, in order, as he faid, to viftual us, the captai and crew of the N. W. Ame-
rica; but that, inflead of being appropriated to this ufe, part thereof were put on board
the floop Wafliington, then commanded by Mr. Kendrick, in order that flic might con-
tinue out a longer trading voyage on the coaft of Ameiica.
That the faid Don Jofeph Stephen Martinez did order to be fliipped on board the fliip
Columbia, commanded by the faid Mr. Grey, the number of ninety-fix fea otter fliins,
for the purpofe of fulfilling the contents of a Spanifli paper attached to this affidavit, duly
authenticated by the chief of the Spanifli Eaft India Company at Canton.
And we do further make oath, that the fliip Columbia, on quitting the coafl of Ame-
rica, was fo weakly manned, that we do veiily believe that flie would not have been able
to
A. P P E N D I X.
to have returned to China, had it not been for the exertions of us, the mafter and feamen
of the N. W. America ; that the reafon of this weaknefs on board the Columbia was their
fending the greater part of their crew on board the floop Wafhington, in order that Ihe
might be manned, and made more competent to continue on the coaft of America.
Sworn at Canton, before the Honourable Eaft India Company's chief Supra-cargo^
this fifth day of December, one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine :
(Signed)
Robert Funter, Matter of the N. W. America.
Robert Davidson, Quarter-mafter.
Peter Henry, Quarter-mafter.
John East, Quarter-mafter,
• ' William Graham, ] _
>n T > Seamen.
Thomas Littlewood, J
Sworn before me, at Canton in China, this fifth day of December, one thoufand feven
hundred and eighty-nine.
(Signed) '
JOHN HARRISON jun. ClucfSupra-cargo.
NO XI.
JOHN KENDRICK's Recbipt for Provifions, &c, on board the Ship COLUMBIA.
[In Mr. Meare's Mtmtrialofthe 20th jlpr'tl, 1790. To accompany Inchfurt, AT*. 7.]
13th JwLV, 1789.
TJ ECEIV'ED from on boird the Snow Argonaut, on board the fhip Columbia, the ua
12 Squares of flioe leather.
2 Small cafks of vinegar.
der-mcntioned nrticles 5 viz.
5 Cafks of fait provifions.
20 Pickles of rice.
2 Small calks of vinegar.
Per JOHN KENDRICK.
The above is a true copy ol the original, figned as above, &c.
Per ROBERT DUFFIN.
Q
£xi RAcr
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4
n
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APPENDIX.
■••' ■ NO. XII. " ' . ." •; •■■ :;•--!-
EXTRACT 0/ tie JOURNAL of the IPHIGENIA. •./ '■
\_ltt Afr. Meare'i Memorial of 2pth Jpiil, i-jfp. No. 8.] ;
REMARKS, mc. en Board the IPHIGENIA N U B I A N A.
Jpril 2oth, 1789. AT one P. M. a breeze fprung up from the N. W; flood in for
the Sound. At feven P. M. the tide and wind failing, dropped the (Ifcam anchor in fifty
fathoms water, one mile from the fhore, and two miles from Friendly Cove, At 10 A.M.
weighed with a Southerly wind : fhortly afterwards camealong-fide Ca|)tain Kcndrickand
officers; they had wintered in Friendly Cove, and had only removed a few days with their
Ihip up to Mowcena, about eight miles higher up the Sound. At eleven A. M. dropped
anchor in the Cove, and moored with the pieces of junk.; employed unbending fails and
getting the top-gallant mafts and yards down on deck : — This log at midnight.
21/1. — Light winds and variable: the limbers being all choaked with the fand-
ballafl, fo that the water could not find its way into the pump well, fct all hands to wotiv
in the morning to clear the hold : departed this life Acchon Aching, a feaman ; he was
delirious from the time of his fall from the crofs trees till he died: interred the corpfs
on ihoie.
2id. — The wind from the N. \V. and S. W. with fair weather; fent fome fails on
Ihore, and erefted a tent to put our empty c;i<ks in; employed in the hold, the cooper
overhauling the provifions and putting frcfli pickle in the caflcs.
23</.— Firft part light winds and variabloj tmplaved heaving out ballaftj in the
morning moved the tank to get to the limbers. At 10 A. M. arrived the floop Walliing-
ton from the Southward; I found that they had been out fix weeks, and had procured,
about 300 fea otter (kins.
24/^. — Strong gales and hazy weather, with rain; employed movtHg the great
guns in the hold, which we found a very laborious piece of work; every rope we had in
tie fhip gave way, fo.that we were oblig d to borrow a fall from the American Hoop.
Having intelligence that a fail was in the ofRng, difpatched the long-boat to her alfift-
ance; found her to be our confort the N. VV. America; at noon flie anchored in the Cove.
Sailed out of the Cove the (loop Wafliington for Moweena.
iCfth. — Frelh gales and cloudy weather, with the wind from the S. W. Having
intelligence that the American floop was bound to the Northward as foon as they could
get trade wrought up, I gave orders for the fchooner not to unbend her fails, but to be
hauled on fhore imm<.diately, to Aop her leaks. Ac fix P. M. having Hopped her leaks
as
N D
X.
as well as we coukl, by nailing lead over them, (for we bad neither pitch or tar on board)
suid fcrubbed her bottom, at ten hauled her ofi'tho ways.
idth. — In the morning hauled the fchooner along- fide, and ftru<!k her guns and other
flores in; fent likewife on board her the foUovving articles, viz. all the canvas I had got,
one puncheon of bread, one calk of yarns, one of pork, two of my b?ft inn, .ind fecond
ofEccr, who was well a quainfcd with the part of the coall I intended to fenJ her; 1 fent
on board her as trade, fifty bars of iron, thirty cut up, two hundred choppers, three dozen
of adzes, one dozen of wood axes, and a quantity of large blue beads.
88/^. — Moderate and clear weather, with the wind from N. E. At c'ay-light towed
the fchooner out of the Cove, the long- boat attending her out to fea about two leagues.
May 6//'.— Moderate and fair weather; having intelligence from the natives, thit a velFel
was in the offing, in the morning I ordered the long-boat to go off with the chief officers,
(being unwell myfelf ); about ten I was acquainted by my people, that the veflel appear-
ed to be a Ihip, and not like the Felice; at eleven flic dropped anchor, and faluted me
with nine guns, which I returned; my boat came on board, and acquamted me flie was a
Spanifli fliip of war, commanded by Commodore Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez, on dif-
covery; that there were two others, a Ihip and a fnow, that had parted company about
fourteen days ago: the Commodore fent his compliments to me, and requeued my com-
pany on board the PrinceflTa (for that was the name of the fliip) to dinner} I went on
board, and carried him a prefcnt of a long feathered cloak and cap; he told me, on my
going on board, he came from Oonalalhka, — that he had been in Prince William's Sound
and Cook's River, — and ftiewcd me a copy of a letter I wrote in anfwcr to one I received
from Mr. IfmylofT, on the a5th day of June, 1783. At the time I wrote this letter I was
in Cook's River j he was at anchor then off Montagu Iflandj how wc came to pafs one
another, he failing from the Sound to Cool:'s River, and I failing from Cook's River to
the Sound, I am at a lofs to know. He fell in with the Wafhington to the Northward,
and fupplicd her with fevcral things (he was in want of. I acquainted him with my dif
trefTcd fituation,— that the veflel had like to have foundered before we made the port,
for want of pitch and tar to (top her leaks, — that I expeftcd my confort from China every
day; if llic did not arrive, I mud beg his afTiftance, which he promifed me. Captain
Kendrick arriving from Mowccna, after tiinnci' we went on ftjore, accompanied by Don
foleph, and three padrics that were ro make all the IiHlians Chriftians; I thought they
iiad taken a hard talli in hand.
j//j-_I'oggy weather; people employed In cutting up fire wood.
8//!' — Moderate brcc/es aiul fair weather; camplcatfd our fii'C wood; waiting with great
ioijiaticnce for the arrival of the Felice.
j)//(i_-,Moderate weather. In the morning I accompanied the Commodore, the padries,
and his officers to Mowccna, to dine with Captain Kendrick! in the evening we returned.
Vi % loth
'ifi.'
f
" \
/
^
ifc
'f
I ill
i' li
li}
hi
A P P E N D I 3^.
io//j. — Plearant land and fea breezes. This day Captain Kendtlck and ofHcefrs, th6
Spanifli Commodore, and the padries dined on board the Iphigenia; having one Sand-
wich Ifland hog Icfr, and a few yams, I fent the hog on board the Spanifti fliip, and had
it dreffed after their own fafliion j they added two or three other dillies, fo that we madfc
it out pretty well.
1I//&. — Cloudy weather and heavy rain. In the morning the Spanifh Commodorfe
went up to Mowccna, taking his cot and bedding along with him He promifcd to let
me have the articles I was in want of at his return. In the evening .ve had intelligence
by the natives of a veflcl being in the offing.
12th. — Moderate and cloudy weather. In the morning, having got fome pitch and
tar from the Princefla, hauled the long boat afliore, and fet the carpenter and caulker to
work to caulk her bottom. At three P. M. having finiflied the long boat, I intended to
fend him down toWiccananifli. At five P. M. Mr. Adamfon acquainted me that Captain
Meares was in the offing, and that the natives had fold him fome fifli ; (having been un-
well for fome time paft, and now confined to my bed,) I ordered him to go off with the
long boat to his afTiflance. At fix ditto I was acquainted fhe dropped anchor one mile to
the Northward of the port and hoifled Spanifh colours.
i^th. — Moderate and cloudy weather. At ten A. M. came in and dropped anchor in
the cove, the Spanifh fnovv St. Carlos, commanded by Captain Arrow. He fent his com-
pliments to me, and requefled my company to dinner; being unwell I declined his invi-
tation. In the afternoon he paid me a vifit; and in the evening the Commodore came
down from Moweena, accompanied by Captain Kendrick, and fome of his officers.
14/^6. — At nine in the morning the Spanifh commodore fent for mc and Mr. Viana on
board the PrincefTa. As foon as I was on board he took out a paper, and ti>hl mc, that
was the King of Spain's orders to take all the vefTcls he met with on the coafl of America ;
that I was now his prifoner. I urged the diflrefs we were in before we reached the har-
bour; the veflcl without cables; no pitch nor tar on board to flop her leaks; no bread
on board, nor any thing to live on but fait pork ; that if I had fleered for any port in
South America, the Spaniards would not have Icized my veflel, but fupplicd me with the
neceflfaries I was in want of, agreeable to the laws of nations ; to take me a prifoner in a
fore'gn port that the King of Spain had never hid claim to, was a jilcce of injuflice that
no nation had ever attempted before : but that, fooner than be detained as a prifoner, (al-
though the vefTcl had like to have foundered before we got into the harbour,) if he woufd
give me permifTion, I would inflantly leave the port This was denied. Forty or fifty
men, with fome officers, went on board, hoifled the Spanifh colours, and took pofTefllon
of the Iphigenia. The keys of my chefl were demanded ; my charts, journals, papers,
and in (horr, every thing that was in the vcfTel, they took poflefllion of. I was not fo
tnuch as allowed to go on board. I enquired the caufe of his not taking the Wafhing-
ton Hoop, as he had orders from the King of Spain to take every vefTcl he met with or
this
■■ «*ir-r.-r -; -.irsiS'r^t-j
APPENDIX.
this coaft. He gave me no fatisfaftory anfwer j but told me my pipers were bad ; that
thiy mentioned 1 was to take all Engliih, Ruilian and Spanifli vcflels that w( re of inferior
force to the Ii)hit;enia, and fend or carry their crews to Macao, there to be tried for their
lives as pirates. I told hi(n they had not interpreted the papers right; that though I did
not underftand Portuguefe, I had feen a copy of them in Englifli at Macao, which men-
tioned, if I was attacked by any of thofe three nations, to defend mylclf, and if I had
the fupcriority, to fend the captain and crew to Macao to anfwer for the infult they offered.
The padries and the clerk read the papers over, and faid they had interpreted, the papers
right.
In the evening of the 15th, Captain Kendrick came down from Moweena; having been
informed Captain Kendrick was privy to my being taken prifoner, and that it was Icttled
when the Spanifh Commodore was laft at Moweena, when he came on board the Iphige-
nia I refufed to fee him. This being reported to the Spanilh Commodore, I was ordered,
at ten o'clock at night (although I was very unwell) to turn out, and carry my bed oa
board the Sp inifh fnow, it both raining and blowing at the time. Here I remained for
fome time without a foul to fpeak to. My fervant, who was a M nilla man, and (poke
the language very well, was not permitted to come near me, for fear of his difcovering
fome of their proceedings that was carrying on. In Ihort, they dole a number of things,
and afterwards laid the blame on my fervant. My peo; le were divided between the two
veffels, and every method made ufe of to entice them to enter. The fails were bent,,
and fome new running rigging wove. A captain was appointed,, and officers,, to carry me
to Si. Bias. My officers were to be detained, and one half of my people on board the
two Spanifli fliips, and I was requeued to choofe the quictcft of my men to go along with
me. A lirt of them I was defired to give to the commodore, as we were 10 fail in a few
days. This I would not comply with, but told him, he might fend home if he thought
proper; that the Iphigenia was not fit togo to fea till flie was caulked, and her kaks
f.opped. This tley imn.ediatcly fet about. After taking every thing out of her, cop-
per, iron, trade "f every kind, and all my Sandwich Ifland pork, they fill d the after-
hold with fand ballad, that we had been at fo- much pains to get out. The f>,hooner
North-Weft America, and the Felice, being daily expefted in, none of us were permit-
ted to fpeak to the natives, although I found an opportunity to acquaint Maquilla, and
the other chiefs, as did Mr, Ingraham, chief officer of the Columbia. Wc requ' fled
'them to have boats ready to go off to Captain Meares and Captain Funter, and acquaint
them not to come ii> to Nootka: that I was cap chelled, that is, taken; they told
us they underftood. They wanted to know if I was now a colt, that is, a flave, —
that if I would go with them, they would fend boats to watch tor an opportiinitv to car-
ry me off". They inftantly fliifted their village about four miles to the Northward, fo-
that I am in great hopes both Captains Meares and Funter will have intelligence of my
being captured. One of my people on board the Iphigenia, the fervant, was bargaining
z witlv
1 J
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I
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il
iif'-l
11
I\
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'J
APPENDIX.
■with the natives for fomc fifli they had in their bojt; the Spaniards, not underftanding
what was faid, ordered him on board the Conimodoic's Ihip, and put him into th?
itocks, where he was ftridtly examined, and threatened feverely, if he did not tell wh&-
ther he had mentioned to the natives for them to go and tell Captains Mearcs and Funter
not to come into Nootka. When they found he had not mentioned any thing about the
other veffels, iliey wanted to know if the natives had not fold hir.i they had feen a vcffel
in the offing: he told them they had not. He was after :hls let at liberty, but ordered
never to converfe with the Indians, nor fpeak to them in future. I afterwards had a
conference with Captain Kendrick, he denied being acccflary to my being taken; that
the SpaniHi Commodore had mentioned to him he would take Captain Meares prifoner as
foon as he arrived in the harbour; that he had faid every thing, and had made ufe of all
his intereft to prevent my being taken prifoner : how far this is true, 1 Ihall leave it for
him todifcovcr.
On the 22d the irons arrived from Moweena, which were made by Captain Kendrick's
armourer. We were now to proceed inftantly to St. Bias, and I was once more requeued
to choofe one half of my men, as the other half was to remain with my officers. Finding
not one of them would enter, or defert me, I declined giving the preference to any. Be-
fore we failed, I requefted my own private papers might be delivered up, likewifc a copy
of my Ihip papers, which was promifed me. The interpreter, when he came to that
part which mentions my defending niyfelf in cafe I was attacked, and, if I had the fupe-
riority, to carry the aggreffors to Macoa to be tried for the infult, mentioned to the Com
niodore, in my prefence, that he thought the papers very good. I told him if that was
the only caufe he had to alledge againrt me, it would not be difficult for me to caft him
in any court of juftice in Europe. He had now got every thing out of her that he took
a liking to; and what things I had belonging to myfclf, he robbed me of in as gentle a
manner as he poffibly could, by letting me know he muft have my gold watch, my fec«
tant, my (love, and all my cjiarts; likewife all my long feathers, cloaks and c.ps, that
Tianna and his relations prefented me with ; even my ihoes and boots, and very bed
cloaths went; as a reafon for fo doing, he told me fome of thofe things pould be got at
Mexico. He now propofed to return the vefTel, and fupply me with provifions to carry
me to the Sandwich Iflands, if I would fign a paper that was already prepared and pre-
fented me. This I refufed to comply with till I had witneflcs, and knew the contents of
the paper : Mr. How, fupcrcargo of the Columbia, was requefted to write a letter to
Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham, to come down from Moweena, to be witneflcs to
the papers I was to fign.
On the 24th they arrived; the papers were interpreted to me, which mentioned he ar-
rived on fuch a day, and found me in the Bay of St. Lawrence, Nootka t that I was in
diftrefs, and in want of every thing; that he had not flopped my navigation but fup-
plied me with every neceflary I was in want jof to carry me to the Sandwich Iflands.
This
m
;V^
L<.
IS
that
APPENDIX.
■T'lis paper! refufed figning, for two reafons; one was, lie had not only flopped me iir
my navigation, but had taiien podeflion of the fliip, and every thing that belonged to herj
another was, the Spaniards could lay no claim to a port they had never before feen, nor
had any of the K'ng of Spain's veff.ls ever entered. The Commodore laid, in the year
1775 he was fecond officer* on board a king's frigate that w.is on difcovcry, that faw the
port, and named it the Bay of St. Lawrence. I told him, having the chnrt of that voy-
age by me, I begged leave to differ in opinion from him. If I i.id noc chufe to fign the
papers, he told me he would keep the veffel and fend her along the coaft as a privateer
to tr'de -iih the natives. The papers were inrtantly laid, afidc, and Captain Kendrick
went up to Moweena. The fame evening he told me his orders were to take Captain
Kendrick if he (hould fall in with him any where in thofe feas; and mentioned it as a
great fccret that he would take both him and the floop Wafhington as (bon as fhe arrived
in port.
The 24th and 25th, a heavy gale blew from the South Weft, the Spanirti vcflels had
each four anchors a-head ; the Commodore requeilcd I would go on board the Iphigenia
with mv officers and people, and lecuie her ; having nothing on board to fecure her with,
I declined having anv thing to do with her;, he was therefore under the neceffity offend-
ing two eight-inch hawfers, and making her faft to Hog Illand. As Iwas not permitted
to go on Ihore, I did not know much of what was carrying forward therej they were
bufy in erefting forts on Hog Ifland, and, by what I learned,, they were cutting dowa
large trees to build houfes. The Commodore acquainted me, that laft year, when he
was at Oonalalhka, Mr, Ifmyloff told him he expetted three veflels from Kamtfchatka
with a number of men; that on their arrival at Oonalaflika, he was to take the command,,
and condud them to Nootka Sound, where they were to forn a fettlement ; that he ex-
pedlcd to arrive at Nootka by the middle of July, or ill of Auguft, 1789; that two
Ruffian frigates were to fail from Peterfljurgh by the way of Cape Horn, and join them
in Nootka Sound with ftores and other neceflaries that they might want. On his arrival,
at St. Bias laft year he fent an exprefs to the Viceroy, who ordered him to fail imme-
diatelv for Nootka, and credt forts to keep the Ruffians out. He likewife acquaintt?d
me, that in the year 1786, two Englifli veffels were caft away, one was drove aihore at
her anchors on the ifland Maidenoi Oftroff; that alltlic hands pcrilhed cxctpr three men
that happened to be on fhore; they were fent over land to Peterfburgh. The officers of
the other veffel being on fliorc, they put to lea, and as there was noperfon on board that
could niV'gatc the yeffel, Ihe was never afterwards fucn or heard of. As- 'hey now had-
got poffeffion of my charts and journals, the Spanilh Commodore intended to lend the
St. Carlos, Captain Arrow, to the Northward as foon as they could get her bottom cleaa-
ed and her fides caulked. Captain Kendrick was likewife ready for lea, and he was ga-
ine
I J
* Tlus was Maurelle's fliip tlic Commodore was in.
#
, !
if i
'\\
I'. <'
It v
APPENDIX.
"ing to pu(h to the Northward. My people were after me every hour of the day, re-
queding that I would fign the papers, that they might get on board their own veflci.
Although the Commodore had promifed to fupply me with what he thought would be
neceflary to carry me to the Sandwich Idandi, and made this promife before Mr. How
and Mr. Ingraham, ftill there was no dependance to be put on his word ; however, on the
36th this paper was once more produced, and I was under the nece/Tity of figning it.
At eleven o'clock on the 26th, I carried my people on board, and took poflTeflion of
the Iphigcnia ; I was not above half an hour on boird when a meflTage came that I was
wanted on board the Princefla. When I vvcnt on board, I was told by Don Jofeph Ste-
phen Martinez (in the prcfence of Mr. Ingraham) that, although he bad given me back
the Iphigenia, he would not permit me to fail till the arrival of the fchooner North-Weft
America, and that I mud fill her to him for the price that Captain Kendrick and his
officers fhould let on her. I told him the fchooner did not belong to me ; that I had
no power to fell her^ and that he might aft as he thought proj>er on the occafion. In the
afternoon the Spaniards left the fliip, eaeh carrying off what he could lay his hands on.
May 27/^— Cloudy weather, with the wind from the Weft; loofed the fails to dryt
-employed heaving out the fand ballaft. In the evening the Commodore acquainted me
he had intelligence from the natives that the fchooner was in a port a little way to the
.Northward- He got out fomc ink and paper, and requefted I would write a letter to
Captain Funter to come into Nootka Sound. This I would ndt comply with, fo that he
refufed to fend my ftores, or any of his own on board me.
28/;?'. — Frefli breezes and fair weather; employed fitting the rigging in its old places.
2grh. — I made out a lift of what articles I was in want of; my chief demand'was a ca-
tle of eleven inch, bread, fome pitch and tar, together with forty fathoms of four«inch
Tope for top-fail (hcets, and the rope that was woven when the vcffel was in their pof-
feflion. The Commodore fent me word he would let me have what things he thought
neceffary, and what he could bcft fpare, fo that I received on board the following articles,
'viz. one calk of beef for three cafks of Sandwich Ifland pork that was kept; four bags,
weighing each aclb. one box of bread, weighing about ijolb. two bags of rice, four of
beans ; eight bags of flour ; one cheft of pitch ; one bladder of tar ; and one eighteen-
gallon keg of Spanilh Brandy j roj)e of three inch, eighteen fathoms; one coil of one
and an half inch, containing fifty fathoms ; and thirty fathoms of two inch. The reft
■of the cotdage and other things were wove and fent on board when I was a prifoncr.
ootb. Employed rigging the top gallant mafts. In the afternoon an account of the
articles we had received was brought on board, charging five times the quantity, and
.five times the fum they coft; in fliort, I was going to return moftof them, but I fo nd
if I returned any I muft return the whole. As I had made no charge againft him of my
pork, iron, copper, watch, ftove, fedtant, cloaks, caps, and charts which he had de-
prived me ofi on this account I granted him the bills he requefted. There was another
• thing
he day, re-
own veiTcl.
ht would be
e Mr. How
vever, on the ,
rning it.
poflfeflion of
ie chat I wa*
1 Jofeph Ste- ♦
ven me back
North-Weft
rick and his
: that I had
i(ion. In the
hands on.
fails to dry;
iquainted me
; way to the
ite a letter to
h, To that he
s old places.
and'was a ca-
of fouT'inch
in their pof-
;$ he thought
wing articles,
j four bags,
rice, four of
)ne eightecn-
; coil of one
ih. The reft
foncr.
;count of the
jUiintity, and
, but Ifo nd
ft him of my
he had de-
e was another
thing
.
APPENDIX.
thing I was obliged to comply with ; viz. by great promifes he got my fervant, who wai
a Manilla man, to enter on board the Princcffa; — I was therefore under the necclTity of
difcharging him, and paying his wages up to the day he was difmiiTed.
31^?. — As I was determined to be detained no longer, I went on board in the morning
of the 31ft, and acquainted Don Stephen Jofeph Martinez that the moment the wind fa-
voured me, I would fail for the Sandwich Iflands. I found there were objeflions made :
the Commodore acquainted me he had information that I intended to go to the North-
ward. As I had taken great care not to give the leaft hint to any perfon of my future
intentions, I mentioned, that whoever he was that told him fo, could not be fo well ac-
quainted with the ftate of my veflel as he was himfclf ; that by his own calculation I had
not above fix weeks provifions ; that he had only left me ten or twelve bars of iron»
which would only purchafe me as many fca otter (kins, and if I was even to difpofe of
them, the confcquence would be but fmall; we (hould only be ftarved before we got to
Macao, as he had left us nothing elfe to purchafe our hogs with at the Sandwich Iflands ;
bcfidcs he had not left a chart to carry me to China, let alone along the coafts of Ame-
rica. My people, I told him, were on high wages, and that it was necelTary for me to
make the beft of my way to Macao, having no other profpefl but to lelTen the expencet
of the voyage as much as lay in my power.
ytinc \f.. — I gave orders to unmoor, and requefled he would let me have my great
guns, fmall arms, and an)munition ; which he complied with. Captain Kendrick and
officers having come down from Moweena, they acquainted me the Columbia would fail
the day following to the Northward. Another paper was produced, which the Commo-
dore requeftcd I would fign, and be witneflcd by Captain Kendrick and Mr. Ingraham ;
the contents of this paper, they told me, was, if my papers were bad, the velTel was to
be delivered up at Macao. It was eafy to fee through thofe artifices. I figned the paper,
and requefled a copy, but this was not complied with. A dinner being provided on
board the Princeira, every method was made ufe of by Captain Kendrick and others to
find out if I intended to touch to the Northward. I gave them the fame anfwers as be-
fore, telling them I had no intention to throw away the lives of my people. On this
day they dr.mk my health, wilhing me a good voyage to Macao, and accompanied it
with thirteen guns. As foon as dinner was over I went on board, accompanied by Captain
Kendrick and officers, and the Spanifli Commodore. A light breeze Springing up from
the Noithord, I i.!;:ivc orders to get under way. The Commodore told me I muft leave
a letter for Captain Funter, if he fhould arrive in Nootka Sound, to fell the fchooner. I
acquainted him, neither Captain Funter nor myfelf had power or authority to fell the
fchooner; that I would write a letter, and leave it with him, to be delivered in cafe of his
returning to Nooika Sound. I Ihall here infcrt a copy of the letter I left.
%
H
n
■ I
1
f
APPENDIX.
To Capt. Robert Funtsri Commander of the Schooner North- West America*
«« s I R, ' . '
«' ON the 6th of May, a Spanilh (hip of war arrived in Friendly
*' Cove, Nootka Sound, commanded by Commodore Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez ,
*' on the 13th the fnow St. Carlos arrived; on the morning of the 14th the Iphigcnia
" was feized, and we were made prifoners, it being alleged our papers were not good.
«« This being cleared up, I am now permitted to fail to Macao, being fupplied with
«* ftores and provifions to carry rne to the Sandwich Iflands. As there is no account of
** Captain Mearcs, I am afraid fome accident has happened to him between the Sandwich
«« Iflands and China j if that is the cafe, you will be but poorly off for provifions. My
** own fituation prevents me from giving you any affiftance ; I muft therefore leave you
«« to your own good condud, being as much at a lofs how to adt as you can be. All that
" I have to fay is, you will aft to the Left of your judgment for the benefit of your
** employers.
*• I am, &c.
*« Iphioenia, Friendly Cove, Nootka.
« Sound, ijljuae, 1789. ' ' «' Wm. DOUGLAS."
The moment I had finilhcd my letter I gave orders to flip the hawfer, and made fail
out of the Covei the fort on Little Hog Ifland falucing me with five guns, which I begged
to be excufed returning. At three P. M. the Spanifli Commodore and Captain Kendrick
left me and went on fhore. As the wind was from the Northward, I ftood to the South*
ward under all fail ; at fun-fct Nootka Sound bore North half WeA, didance fcven or
eight leagues.
yuHe 2^.— Having got out of the hands of my enemies, I was now at liberty to judge
for myfelf, knowing it would be a length of time before the Spaniards could have their
Ihow ready which they intended to fend to the Northward, and being of opinion they
would not permit Captain Kendrick to fail before flie was ready, the interval was there-
fore mine. I had no idea of running for Macao with only between fixty and feventy fea-
otter fltins which I had on board. My people had been accuftomed to fliort allowance ; I
therefore gave orders, at midnight to put the fliip on the other tack, and ftand away to
the Northward. I was in great hopes I (hould fall in with Captain Funter ; and I was
fully refolved, if I did, to take the people and cargo out of her, and fet her on fire, if I
found I could not carry her along with me. At noon we had hazy weather ; Nootka
Sound bore North Eaft half Eaft, diftance fourteen leagues.
%
No. xin.
IBRICA.
Friendly
lartinrz |
phigcnia
lot good,
lied with
count of
sandwich
ins. My
jave you
All that
of your
GLAS."'
made fail
I begged
IKcndrick
e South-
fcvcn or
to judge
jave their
lion they
as thcre-
irenty fea-
)wance ; I
away to
and I was
fire, if I
Nootka
No. XIII.
APPENDIX,
NO XIII.
COPIES of LETTERS from Mr. DUFFIN to Mr. MEARES.
\In Mr. Mcarcs's Memorial of 2pth Ji»U, 1790. No. IX.]
Noolka Sound, July nth, 1789.
DEAR S I K,
I BEG to inform you, per favour of Mr. Barnett, with our
fafe arrival in Nootka Sound, after a plcafant paflage of nine weeks and four days, dur-
ing which time nothing material happened. \Vc lived in the greateft harmony and good
friendfliip during the time we have been together, and every thing promifed fair for a
continuation of the fame; every officer on board feeming ftrenuous for their employers'
intcreft. VVc made the coaft of America July 3d, at Woody Point, and flood along
Hiore under an eafy fail during the night. In the morning fcveral natives came oflP, with the
reft Comekela (that was brought by you from Macao to Nootka); from him we learnt
there were five vefll-ls in Friendly Cove, but could not learn of what nation they wcrej
however he informed us they had captured the North-Weft American fchooner, com-
tnanded by Mr. Funter. We immediately conjectured that the veffels were fome belong-
ing to Mr. Etches, and the American fliip and floop. We made all the fail we could,
intending to get in that night if poffible. On our nearing the Sound we faw a floop
coming out, which we were informed was the Princefs Royal, belonging to our concern.
We then had not the leaft doubt but there were fome of Mr. Etches' veffels in the Cove.
When we were about two miles from the entrance of the Sound, we Auv a boat coming
towards us ; it was then between nine and ten o'clock, fo that we could not difcern of
what country they were. They hailed us in Spanifli, and afked if ihey might be permit-
ted to come on board. They were anfwered in the affirmative; on which they came
alongfide, and the officer with fcveral other gentlemen ftepped up. Wc found the for-
mer to be the Spnnilh Commodore ; thofe who accompanied him were of his (hip. After
having welcomed them on board, Captain Colnett afked them down into the great cabin {
what their convcrlation was there I am unacquainted with; but Captain Colnett foon told
me his intention was to go into FiiciKlly Cove, and the Spanifli launch took us in tow
accordingly. About ten minutes after this, Mr. Barnett came on board, whom I diredtly
introduced to Captain Colnett, who informed him that there was a Spanifli frigate of
twenty-fix guns, and a fnow of fixteen lying in the Cove, as alfo the American fliip and
floop ; that the forn)er had crcifted a fort on Hog Ifland, on which fixteen guns were
mounted, and had taken poUcffion of the Sound in the name of his moft Catholic Majefty
H z Carolus
m
■<i )
APPENDIX.
Caroliis III. King of Spain j thil they had captured rhc fchooncr, «nd plundered the
Iphigcnia, but had permitted Captain Hudfon to proci.cd without any molcdation. A*
the Commodore heard this intelligence, he immcdiurcly gave Captain Colnctt his word
and honour that he would not offer to detain him, but give him every alTillance in his
power, in doing whivh, he only complied with the King of Spain's ord'rs. Under thcfc"
circumftanccs, and depending on his honour, C.ip'.ain Colnctt entered the Cove, and
brought up between the frigate and fnow; though I muft add, that Mr. Barnett, with
others of our welUwiftiers, advifed us to anchor without fide the Cove, that we might
take a view of the furrounding objedls in the morning. Every thing that night and the
next morning fcemed to wear a favourable afpe^, no obHacle arifing that might Hop our
departure.
In the afternoon Captain Colnctt went on board the Commodore's Ihip, and requefteJ
his permiflion tu go to fea immediately, which at firA was granted, but on fecond confi*
deration, the Commodore deiired to fee his papers. Captain Colnett left the Commodore,
and came on board his own vcffel ; when, after having put on the Company's uniform*
and hit hanger, he took his papers on board the Commodore : he was then informed by
that gentleman, that he could not fail that day ; on which fome high words enfued be>
tween them, and Captain Colnett infilled on going out immediately, which he faid he
would do unlcfs the Commodore fired a (hot at him ; if fo, he would then haul down his
colours, and deliver himfelf up a prifoncr: hardly had he uttered this, but he was put
under an arreft, and his fword taken from him, the veflTel feized, and the officers and
crew taken out, and fcnt prifoncrs, fome on board the fhip, and the reft on board the
fnowi but what is moft particular, he defired Captain Kendrick to load his guns with
fliot, to take a veOel that had only two fwivels mounted j fo that it ./as impofifible to make
any refinance againft fuch fuperiority; indeed it would have been madnefs to have at-
tempted it. The Commodore's paflion now began to abate a little, and he fcnt for me
from the St. Carlos, where I was imprifoned : when I came to him, he feemed to profefs
a very great friendfliip for me, and appeared to be exceedingly forty for what, he faid,
his.officers compelled him to do. He declared to me, that he had given Captain Col*
nctt pcrmiflion to depart, and would have affifted him all in his power, but that Captain
Colnett infilled on ereifting a fort oppofite his j faid he reprefented the King of Great
Britain, and that he came to take poflelfion in his Britannick Majefty's name. The Spa-
niard quoted the fame, and faid he was reprefcntative of his moft Catholic Majefty the
King of Spain: but I have every reafon to Uifpedt there was a mifunderftanding between
the two parties, for the linguift fpoke Englilh very imperfedly, and in all likelihood in-
terpreted as many words wrong as right. This is as particular and impartial an account
of the above tranfadion as it is in my power to relate ; but as this will be accompanied by
MefTrs. Funter and Barnett, who are permitted to take their paflTage in the American (hip,
and who were eye-witneffes of every tranfidion, it will enable them to explain every par«
ticular concerning it more explicitly than I am able to do in writing.
Since
9 1
ti
Since
A P P
N D I X.
Since our being captiirrd, Captain Coinctt lias Viccn in a liigii Ihtc of inf;init)' ; fome-
tiincs he flarts, at utlicrs hcafks iiovv long lie hi% to live } vvho is to be his executioner }
what death he is to be put ro? with all I'uch delirious cxprcHlons, accompanied by a
number of fimplc aiflions, which induces tiie, and every other pcrfon who fees him, to
believe his brain is turned, owing to the great charge that was under his care; and I am
forry to add, that he has not fortitude enough, in this critical and dif.igrecablc fituation,
to fupport this uncxpctflcd llroke. He has delivered me his inftrudions and the South
Sea Company's grant, and rcquells I will adl in his name. I have endeavoured to convince
the Spaniards, had wc known this place had been taken polUflion of by the King of Spain,
\vc would not, on any confulcration, have come near it : I have likcwifc wiflicd to per*
fuadchim to pcrufc the South Sea Company's grant and our inftruttions j which he rc-
fufes, and tells mc it would avail nothing now to do it, as his olliccrs infirt on his going
on with what he acknowledges he tooralhly and haftily began, and without deliberating
what might hereafter be the confequence. He dcfired me toinclofc the grant and our in-
Hruftions in his prefencc; he took and put a fmall note with them, and afterwards fcalcd
it with his own fignet : he then put it under my care, defiring that I would deliver it to the
Viceroy of Mexico. The veflcl is going to St. Bias, a fettlenicnt they have in the latitude
of 2i''3&' North, on the coaft of California, where wc are going, to determine whether wc
arc a prize to the King of Spain or not j if we arc not, as we have every rcafon to cxpedt,
(he will be delivered up with every thing in her, and be anfwcrablc for all damages ro-
ceivcd or Rotes deficient, iince his making a prize of us ; but this undoubtedly will be
fettled between the two crowns.
Captain Colnett, myfelf, Mr. Temple, and Reid the carpenter, arc permitted to re.
main on board the Argonaut ; Mr. Hanfon on board the Commodore's fliip j and Meflrs,
Gibfon and Ludlow on board the Spanifli fnow.
From what I can learn at prefent, all the Englifhmen are to be fent in the Argonaut to
St. Bias, and preparations are now making to accommodate us in that veflel : they have
alfo built cabins between decks for the feamen, where they are to be confined in irons
during the night, but fuffered to walk out in the day ; the officers, I believe, arc alfo to be
ufed in like manner. I am at prefent in pofleflion of my cabin, as arc alfo the reft of us,
and the commodore behaves with great civility, by obliging us in every liberty that can
be expefted as prifoners. Whatever deficiency may be left concerning our prefent tranf-
adions, will be explained to you in its true light by Mr. Funter or Mr. Barnettj for I con-
fefs that I am very unhappy, unfettled, uneafy, and in fliort, feel every anxiety that is
the companion of a perfon involved in fo difagrecable a fituation as I am.
I am.
Dear Sir.
Your's moft obedicntlv.
(Signed)
B. D U F F I N.
P. S.
/ I
'.i^9f%
«»
"**34
1
I
!
APPENDIX.
P. S. 1 am lorry to inform you that the Spaniards have taken the chief part of our
copper, all our guns, ihot and powder, with the fpare canvafs, &c. The former he
means to trade with, as I am informed he fends his furs to Macao by Captain Kendrick,
who alfo trades for him on fliares.
1'c CtJpUm 'John Aleares.
Noolka Sound, July \yh, 1789.
DEAR SI K,
CAPTAIN COLNETT has been in fuch a ftate of infanity ever
(ince ihc vcffcl has been captured by the Spaniards, that we are obliged to confine him to
his cabin ; yeftcrday morning he jumped out of the cabin window, and it was with great
difficulty his life was faved; his condant cry is, that he is condemned to be hanged. I
fincerely hope for his fpeedy recovery, but am apprehenfive he never will recover his for-
mer fenfcs again : I underftand from the boy Ruffel that it is a family diforder, and that
they all have fymptonis of madnefs, more or lefs. I have written the whole tranfaftion
concerning our being captured, &c. previoufly to this, as minutely as prefent circum-
ftances will permit, for I am apprehenfive, if I am feen writing, they will take my book,
paper, pens, ink, &c. from mc, fo that whatever I have written is by Health} but Mr.
Barnett has been fo obliging as to affift me as much as lay in his power to do it. Gib-
fon was fccn writing one day, and they immediately took the paper and ink from him,
and told him prifoncrs had no bufinefs to write. We are to-morrow to fail for St. Bias,
v.ith all our officers and fcamcn both Englilh and Portuguefe, except thofe that have en-
tered with the Spaniards. They have taken of our llores to themfelvcs, all our pitch,
tar, canvas, twine, fome provifions of all kinds, guns, ammunition, the chief of our
copper, and many other articles that we were not acquainted with. All the officers be-
ing prifoners, fome on board one vcfTcl, and fome on board the other, we have great
cxpedations that the veiVel will be delivered up at St. Bias. The Commodore promii'es
me if flie is, every thing that he has taken to himfelf fhall be replaced at that portj but
there has been a number of things taken out of the vcflcl by theft that he knows nothing
of; neverthelefs, if any, and the vclTel is returned, they muft undoubtedly make it good :
but you, Sir, and the reft of our employers muft be great fufTercrs, as it haa fruftratedall
our expectations: had we not met with this misfortune, there were ftrong appearances of
our procuring a great quantity of furs, as the Americans have no copper to purchafe
with, fo that the natives rcfervc all their prime fkins cxpcding a copper fhip.
If our velTel is delivered up to us, our ftores, trade, &c. returned, you may reftalTured
I will do all that is in my power for the benefit of my employers, and the Captain re-
mains in this ftate of inGmity ; if he recovers, he will undoubtedly do the fame. I can
fay nothing more, but beg you will prefent my compliments to all enquiring friends, and
remain, l^'^-^'^ ^"■»
Your's nioft obediently,
(Signed) IJ. D U F F I N.
To Captain "John Afe.vTS.
B
F I N.
«
I
APPENDIX.
NootkaSoundtJuly 14, 1789. ,
DEAR SIB,
YESTERDAY at two P. M. a fail was fecn in the offing,
coming round Breaker's Point from the Southward, (landing into the Sound; as (he ncar-
ed the Ihore we perceived her to be the floop Princefs Royal, Captain Hudfon: at feven
flie came to an anchor about two or three miles from the Cove, and Captain Hudfon him-
fclf came into the Cove in his boat, with four of his peoplej when inftantly as he made
his appearance in the Cove, the Spanifli boat boarded him, and took him and his people
on board the Commodore as prifoners. His motive for coming in, from what I could
learn from himfclf, was to fee if Captain Colnctt was there, in order to receive his orders
how he was to proceed in future. Whether Captain Hudfon's conduft in this proceeding
was blameable or not, I leave to your fuperior judgment.
We are now out of the Cove in the mouth of the Sound, and arc pofitivcly to fail to-
morrow morning for St. Bias. The floop is towed into the Cove within all the Shipping;
and the Spaniards, from every appearance, have finally captured her.
Captain Hudfon fcems very much hurt at his misfortune, and candidly declares that it
is entirely from his own fimplicity, and being too credulous of the Spaniaru'; honour,
that has brought him into this difagreeable dilemma.
Captain Colnett is much better to-day, and in general difcourfcs very rationally: I have
endeavoured to perfuade him to draw out every particular concerning our being captured,
to fend to his employers, which he refufes: his objeflion is, that he has involveil himfelf
and every one elfe in difficulties that he is not able to extricate himfclf from, and therefore
declares to me, that he will have no more concern with the charge of the velfel, but leaves
every thing entirely to me, which I have, but moft reludlantly, complied with, knowing
that I cannot acquit myfelf with fatisfaiftion to myfeif, nor undoubtedly more fo to my
employers. Neverthelefs, If the vcffel is delivered up at St. Bins, as the Commodore
gives me every reafon to hope that Ihe will, I will endeavour, to the utmoll in my power,
to do every thing that may be any ways beneficial to my employers.
TJie Commodore wanted Captain Colnett to fell all his copper to him, and he would
give him bills for fame, as he valued it; which Captain Colnett had complied with, but
I objeded, as I thought if his orders tolerated him to capture the vefTel, they would un-
doubtedly tolerate him to capture the cargo likewife. We are deficient in a great deal
of copper, as I mentioned in my formerj but Mr. Barnett will be able to inform you, I
imagine, where it goes to.
Accompanying this, I fend, under the care of Mr. Barnett, a copy of my journal front
Macao, wherein you will find the principal occurrences that have happened to us iinco
our departure. I have nothing more to add; neither have I opportunity to do it, the
veflel being continually crowded with people from different Ihips; fo beg you will prc-
fent my compliments to Mr. M'Intire, and every other gentleman in Macaoj and remain,
D K A R SIR,
To Captain John Meares, Moft obediently your's,
B. D U F F I N. '
9
111 MMi • m»»
APPENDIX.
A STATEMENT ef the ACTUAL and PROBABLE LOSSES fujlaimd hj /** Associated
Merchants of London and India, by the Capture of their Ships,
Sp. Doll.
ACTUAL LOSSES. 5f
To cifli paid the crew of the l]>higenia, on their
reliirn to Chlnai being near two years wages,
and other incidental expcnces incurred, for
wliich vouchers have been Abtaincd
To ca(h paid the crew of the N. W. America, be-
ing near two years wapes, on their ret\irn to
China; for which i-oncheri liavc been obtained
To the equipment of the lliip Argonaut; for
which vouchers have been obtained
To the equipment of tlie Princcfs Royal; for
which vouchers are re:idy to be produced
To 473 fea otter (kins, feized on board the Piin.
cefs Royai, at loo dollars per Ikin
To I s fea otter (kins detained fur the particular
ufc of Mr. Martinez, at the time valuation
To the agent's e\pences in returning to Kngland
To iufiirance on the principal (lock, at so per
cent, the ufual premium
To the lofs of the oflicers' charts, journals, nau-
tical indrti.nents, (loathing, private goods, &c.
the amount of which cannot now be arcertained>
To the amount of wages due to all the fervantsof
the alfociatcd Merchants now in captivity, from
the tinieof their failingto the time of their return
To the value of the North Weft America, on the
.coaft of America
Dill.
.5.^
3*
3.7 '9
39,gi6
47,300
1,100
1,000
13,864
ic,ooo
Spani(h dollars, 153,433
PROBABLE L'OSSES.
Ta the value of the cargo which probably woidJ
have been collefled by the Iphigenia, 1 000 fea
otters Ikins, at loo dollars per (kin
To the vahie of the cargo which would probably
have been obtained by the North Weft Ame-
rica, 1000 fea otter (kins, at 100 dollars per
(kin - - -
To the value of the cargo which would probably
have been obtained by the Prince(s Koyal, 1 000
fea otters (kin$, at 100 dollars per (kin
To the value of llie cargo which would 'probably
have been obtained by the Argonaut, 1000
Ikins, at 100 dollars per (kin
To the lofs and deftriiilion of the commerce of
the Aifociated Merchants
To the particular lofs of the velTel of 30 tons, in
frame, on board the Argonaut, and of the furs
(lie would probably have obtained
ioo,ooa
too,ooa
aoo,oaa
Spanifli dollars, joo,oo9
INVENTORY c/ibeGoLS.TA.,thePr»pertye/Doti Juak Cawallo owrf Company, «/'MACAOi
taken by Order of the Commandant Don Stepue^ Joseph Martinez.
HER hull rotten, eaten thro\igh by tl;e worm, as appears
by the (iirvey made by the malle^carpeQtcr and caulker,
Ferdinand Campufano and Francis Jufeph dc Caftro,
Her main-iiuft, fore-inaft, and boltl'prit, without top- mafts
or poles.
i'wo hooks fur fore-maft and main mart.
The tackle for both mafts ; which, being of hemp, can
only ferve flir oakiim or tow, being rotten.
Her nid'ier, or helm ; lei-viieable.
' Her binnacle, with a compafs.
A fmall iron anchor.
; ^ Two pieces of cable, from 40 braces long, for cables
Wi (braces) of middle dimendons.
Two larger ones.
Two fore fails, one round-fail, one top-fa'.l, one togue.
Some pieces of old cable.
Six iron guns, caliber ».
Six gu;i carriajves, 20 balls of 2, and 10 ditto finaller.
Three copppr fwivel gtms, with their key.-. ; one ditto,
wiiliout key.
Five mufquets with bayonets, and 300 balls, and 6 piftols
Half a cunctc of fine gunpowder, which is ('uppoli:d to
weigh an arroba • ; and another ditto of common gun|iowder.
One humlred and (ixty fliort iron fworls.
Ten cooj)ers hatchets; and »o carpenters ditto.
Ten (lips (or ingots) of the iron called platina, which are
computed to weigh two quintals.
Seventy eight Ihort pieces of iron, computed to weigh one
quintal.
• Abtulttvoiij-dgbipatinJs.
Three large iron bars, computed tu weigh 699lbs.
Thirteen liiiall water calks; and i ditto for a provifion of
water.
One b.irrcl of pork.
Two ditto empty, all in pieces.
Eight old fmall pewter di hes, fonie of them broken.
One pot of caft iron, frying-pan and ftew-pan of ditto.
On board the vclfel at anchor in the river of this port of
St. Lawrence of Noo'ka, iith June, 17S9. Signed
Jof. Tovarand Tamariz, Rob. Fnnter, Thos. Barnet,
( Uaphael de Canizarbs.
Tlii" ij a copy of the original, triplicates whcieof were
(igned by the above-mentioned pcrfons, and which is left in
my care to tranfmit to H. E. the Viceroy of New Spain, for
his fuperior determination. Dated as above,
Raphael dk Canizares.
I, Don Stephen Jofcph Martinez, enlign of the (hip be-
longing to the Royal Navy, and commander in chief of the
veli'els of his Catholic Majefly upon this coaft, and in the port
of St. Lawrence at Nootka, do declare. That I have received
from Captain Dn. Robert Funter, and pilot Dn. Thomas
Barnet, every article contained in the preceding inventory, as
being ti.e property of Un. John Caw alio and Co. of Macar,
until the determination of his Excellency the Viceroy of New
Spain, to whom I liave given an account by this date for his
fuperior orders; an.l, at the requeft of the faid concerned, I
gavetlie prefent receipt on board this frigate, the Prince(i^
under my command, in tlic port af St. Lawrence of Nootka,
13th July, i7»j.
SrSrHEN JOSSFH Martinex.
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