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PAPEES

BKLATIVI TO THI

-fr

RECENT ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS

; ^ ^^ IN SEARCH OF

SIR JOHN FEANKLIN ''

AND THE CREWS OF

.4^

H.M.S. "EREBUS" AND "TERROR."

Vrremten to botd Kou^eo of VarlUment fiv <irommanli of Krtr inate0t|?.

LONDON:
I'UINTED BY GEORGE EDWAUD EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE.

PBINTERS TO THE QUEEN's MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.

rOR HER MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICli.

1854.

iMmmitmimmttntimi -

ithHaailrfllUt !^t),Mt.S -

='f^:f:i*i/./T

CONTENTS.

' J

(I
» « •-

i ;■

L Orders to, and Proccedingi of, CtpUin E. A. IngUflald, Hw M^jesty'i StMun V«h«1

"PhoBnix" I

n. Ordert from Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., to the Arctic Squadron • • 9

m. Captain IngloBeld'i Report, 4th October 1863 • • • • • 11

Ditto. — Report of the melancholy Ioh of Lieattnant BeUot, of the Imperial
Nary of France ..... ...|9

IV. Lieutenant CrosawcU's Letter, 7(h October 18S3, announcing hit Arrival with
Del patches fVom Captain M'Clure, communicating the proceedings of Her IW^osty's
Ship " Investigator," and Discovery of the North-West Passage • • il

V. Proceedings of Captain M'Clure of Her Mi^csty'ii Discovery Ship " Investigator," in
search of the Expedition under Sir John Franlilin, iVom August 18A0 to April
18l!3, and reporting the Discovery of the North- West Passage . • 98

VL Proceedings of tho Squadron in the Arctic Sea*, under the Command of Sir Edward

Belcher, C.B. ......... 62

VII. Despatches from Captain Kellett, C.B., of Her Mi^osty's Discovery Ship " Resolute,"

andCommanderPullen, of Her Miyesty's Ship "North Star" • . 85

Vni. Journal of tho "North Star," Commander PuUen, I4th August 1852 to February 1853 103

DC Report of Mr. PuUen, Master. Her M^iosty's Ship " North Star " - • 130

X. Proceedings of tho "North Star," 2Ut March 1853 ... -131

XI. Orders to, and Proceedings of, Commander Henry Trollopo, Her Mi^oty's Discovery

Ship"RnttIesnalco" - - . - . • • - 147

Xn. Report on the Proceedings of Her Mi^cst/s Ship " Amphitrite," Captain Fredericic - 156

XUL Report of tho Proceedings of Hor Majesty's Discovery Ship "Plover," Commander

Kochfort Mflguiro ........ jgo

XIV. Dr. M'Cormick's Boat Expedition up the Wellington Channel, 1852 . .187

a.-JL-

ii.ini fini.i:

•MMMt

i\ •

■if.

9
11

28
62

M
10

PAPERS

KKLATIVK ri) niK

Ueceiit Ex|)e(litions in Search of Sir .loliii Franklin, Ike.

Orders to, and Pruccediiigs of, Cnptain E. A. Iii<{luHold,
Her Majesty's Steam Vessel " l'h(Kiiix."

No. 1.

Copy of Orders to Commander Inolkkield, Her Majesty's Sleam Sloop

" Plui^nix."

By the Commissioners for Executing tho Office of Lord High Admiral of
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.

Whereas We have appointed yoa to the Conunund of Her Majesty's Ship
Phoenix tor the purpose of proceeding to Becchcy Island, in Lancaster .'Mninu,
to communicate with Sir Iv Belcher, or tlic Ships under his command.

2. You are hereby required and directed, so soon as the Phccnix shall Ik; in
all respects rendy, and the Brcadalhane Transport, which is to accompany you,
sholl 1)0 loaded with coals and other stcnes, to proceed to sea, and to make the
best of your way to the beforemcntioncd Island. In the exeoition of this service
you will use your utmost exertion to expedite your passage, and aflbrd every
aid and assistance to the Transports, so as to reach Beechey Island at the earliest
possible period.

3. We have also ordered the Diligence Dock Yard Transport to be loaded
with coal to accompany you to the Island of Disco, or any other place which
you may consider most convenient, and we have addid 10 men to the establish-
ment of the Phcrnix for the purpose of forming her crew. ( )n arrival at Disco,
or at such other place, you will replenish your coal from her, and shift her crew
(except one or two men,) to the Breadalbane, and leave the Diligence at that
place until your return, or otherwise act, as the circumstances of tin. case
may require.

4. The most essential duty on your arrival at Beechey Island will lie at once
to clear the Transport of the coals and stores ; no delay whatever is to take

Elace in effecting tiiis, and relays of men are to be emploj ed ; the stores are to
c landed on the Island or to be put on board the North Stor, as may be con-
sidered most advisable, according to the circumstances of the case. On the
Transpovt being cleared, she is, without a moment's delay, to be directed to
proceed to Kngland, and your most es{)ecial duty, or that of the senior officer
present, will be to carry out these orders.

.5. Part of the stores on board the Phoenix may also be landed, or placed on
board the North Star, except what may be required for the return passage to
England, and having obtained all possible information from Sir E. Belcher, or
the Senior Officer at Beechey Island, with reference to the exfjeditions and the
discoveries which may have been made, and exchanged any officers or men
whose state of health may render it necessary that they should return to
England, you are inmiediately to proceed to sea, and to return to Woolwich
with all possible dispatch, taking the utmost care that your delay at Beechey
Island be not extended to such a period as may risk the ship being frozen in
for the winter.

6. Should the state of the ice in Baffin Bay be such as to render it doubtful
whether you will be able to make your passage across to Lancaster Sound
during the summer, it is our most positive direction that you are on no account
whatever to run the risk of either toe Ptu]^nix or the Transport, being frozen in
and detained during the winter of 1853-54; and if you should consider there is
a chance of such being the case, you are immediately to send the Transport to
Woolwich, and also return there with the steam vessel under your command.
But if you should get through Baffin Bay, and find Lancaster Sound closed so
as to prevent your making the passage to Beechey Island, you are to consider
whether it will be possible to land the stores, coal, &c., at or near Cape War-
render, and from tnence to send the Transport direct to England, and to take
such steps as you may deem necessary, bo as, if possible, to communicate over-
land with Beechey Island.

7. You are distinctly to understand that the principal and chief object of
your orders is to communicate with Beechey Island, for the purpose of landing
stores, and obtaining infor^lation, and from thence to return direct to England.
But should the season prove to be a very open one, and on your return from
Beechey Island, you should have an opportunity of examining the const in the
vicinity of Cape Walsingham, wc do not object to your doing so, but on no
account are you to risk the safety of the ship, or your being detained, as you
must positively return to England this season.

8. We herewith send you instructions to Sir E. Belcher, or the Senior Officer
at Beechey Island, which you will deliver on your arrival.

Given under our hands this 1 Ith day of May 18.'>3.

. (Signed) J. R. G. Graham.

Hyde Parker.

o.y

To Edw. A. Inglefield, Esq.,

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop Phoenix, ";'
Woolwich.
.; By Command of their Lordships,

(Signed) R. Osborne.

M. F. F. Berkeley.

R. S. DuNDAS.

Alex. Milne. • •

J i -r.

By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of
the Uni'xd Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.

We have to inform you that we have dispatched Her Majesty's steam vessel
Phoenix, under the command of Commander Inglefield, with the Breadalbane
transport, to Beechey Island for the purpose of replenishing the ships under
your command with stores and provisions, in case your supplies may have been
so far reduced by the dep6t formed at Melville Island and the various cachets
on the coast, as to prevent you from continuing further search for Sir John
Franklin, during this season and the winter of 1853-54, if the information you
may have gained determine you to continue such further search.

2. In communicating with you on the subject of your fbnner orders and the
service on which you are employed, we are aware how impossible it is for us to
send out any definite instnictions with reference to your future proceedings,
when wc are ignorant of the position in which you may now be placed, or
whether any traces of Sir John Franklin's expedition may have been found
during last autumn or the spring of this year, and what steps you may have
considered it most expedient to adopt. But if no trace of the missing ships
have l)een found beyond the Wellington Channel, and if it should appear that
by the extended search you may have been enabled to make in that quarter,
that the missing ships did not proceed in that direction, and if Captain Kellett
should have reached Melville Island, as directed by his instructions, and his
land expeditions should also have failed in finding any such trace, it does not
appear to us that there is any other direction in which a prospect of their dis-
covery can be expected. Every accessible part of the shores 01 the Polar Seas,
west of Lancaster Sound, will have beeii visited without finding a trace of the
missing ships, except their former station at Beechey Island in 1845 and 1846.
In such a contingency as this, and if such should likewise be your opinion, after
mature consideration with the senior officers under your command, there appears
ao other course left but to abandon all further search.

"-"■■PBTJ'

;- ' »?y

.^^^

K. 3. But in case you should have found any trace of the expedition, it will be
your duty to follow up that trace. In doing this, you must exercise extreme
caution, so as not to lose your means of communication with Becchey Island ;
nor are you to incur any hopeless risk by proceeding beyond reasonable limits,
for the safety of your own crews must be your first care. We place every con-
fidence in your zeal and intelligence, and feel assured that you will act with
sound judgment in whatever situation you may be placed ; we therefore leave it
to you either to abandon the expedition altogether, if you are of opinion that no
further steps can be practicably taken, or to send such of the ships to England
as you may not requ're ; transmitting by them, to our secretarjr, not only a full
account of all your proceedings, but charts of all your discoveries, and keeping
us informed of your views and intentions, so that if it should be necessary every
requisite aid may be given you in the summer of 1 854.

4. Before your final departure from the Polar Seas, should you think proper
to adopt that course, there appears one very important subject which will require
your serious consideration ; and that is, the present position of the ships under
the command of Captain Collinson, and Commander M'Clure, which entered
the ice to the N. h. of Point Barrow, (Behring Straits,) the latter in August
1850, and the former in July 1851. These officers, with their respective crews,
may have been compelled by circumstances to abandon their ships. If such
should be the case, they may probably attempt to reach Melville Island, and
having had this in view when you left hngland, we directed in your instructions
that a depot of provisions, and other stores, should be formed at that island.
From this positif>n they will ho doubt endeavour to make their way to Beechey
Island, or Port Ijcopold. It will therefore be your duty, before returning to
England, to be fully satisfied that a proper dep6t of coals, provisions, &c.,
had been formed at Mellville Islriid. by Captain Kellett, and that clear infor-
mation had also been left there, tha' similar supplies would be found at Beechey
Island.

5. This depdt on Beechey Island is to consist of a full store of coal, provi-
sions, clothes, and other stores, rmd you will take care to have it most careftdly
secured against the depredations of berrs, or other animals ; you are also to
leave one of your ships there, with or without a crew, as you may deem most
advisable, so that Captain Collinson or Commander M'Clure's parties may find
every possible assistance, which they may require, and have the means at their
command of returning to England ; but should you find it to be practicable to
place the ship, or a dep6t of stores, in a more advanced position, between Mel-
ville and Beechey Islands, it might be expedient to do so. This is a point on
which you can form a better judgment than we can. Our most anxious wish is
to establish the best possible arrangement with the view of giving succour and
support to the crews of those ships, should they be compelled to seek refuge in
the direction we have pointed out.

6. Having expressed these general views, which will require your careful con-
sideration, we leave it to you to take such steps as you may consider most
expedient for meeting the circumstances of the case.

7. On the arrival of the Transport at Beechey Island, you are immediately to
hasten her discharge, and dispatch her to England, with the least possible delay,
and you are not to detain the Phcenix longer than may be necessary, or to risk
her being frozen in, but to send her also to England with intelhgence of your
proceedings, exchanging any of her men, and sending invalids, &c.

Given under our hands this 1 1th day of May 1853.

(Signed)

To Sir Edw. Belcher, C.B.,

Ciiptain of Her Majesty's Ship Assistance,

Arctic Seas.

By Command of their Lordships,

(Signed) R. Osborne.

A 2

J. R. G. Graham.

Hyde Parker.

M. F. F. Berkeley.

R. S. DuNDAS.

Albx. Milne.

By the Commissioners for Executing the Office ot" Lord High Admiral of
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.

Heuewith you will receive Copies of Instructions, which we have addressed
to Captain Sir E. Belcher, and also those which we have given to Commander
Ingleficld, of Her Majesty's Ship Phcimix. In the absence of Sir E. Belcher
from Beed.ey Island, you will adopt such proceedings as you may deem to be
necessary, and the circumstances ot the case may require, and with reference to
any orders or directions you may have received from your Senior Officer.

'2. It will be necessary that j'ou should take iumicdiate steps for discharging
the Cargo i)f the Breadalbane Transport, and send her to England without a
moment's delay, and the Phoenix is not to be detained longer than may be
actually necessary. On these several points you will be guided by Our instruc-
tions to Sir E. Belcher and Commander Inglefield.

Given under our hands, this II th day of May 1853.
(Signed)

To the Senior Naval Officer at Beechey Island.

By Command of their Lordships,

(Signed) R. Osbobnk.

J. K. G. Graham.
Hyde Parker.
M. F. F. Berkelby.
k. s. dundas.
Alex. Milne.

No. 2.

Commander Inglefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty.

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix,"
At Sea, lat. 59° 22' N., long. 41° 57' W., the 14th June 1853.
Sir, (Received 24th June.)

By Her Majesty's steam ship " Desperate " I have the honour to acquaint you,
for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that we
have proceeded thus far upon our voyage, assisted by Her Majesty's steamers
" Desperate " and " Barracouta." The latter vessel parted company on the
8th insttmt.

I have received from Captain Chambers every assistance, both with regard to
lowing, and in supplying such few stores as we required.

From him I received permission to send to England for medical treatment
two men whose cases were reported to me by the surgeon as likely to prove
troublesome ; their vacancies have been filled up from supernumeraries out of
" Barracouta." At Cork I took on board 20 sheep, (findmg them as cheap as
salt provisions) for the use of the crews of the " Phoenix " and her tender. I
hope to carry five of these (which are in excellent condition) to Beechey Island
for the use of the sick in the Arctic squadron, and I trust their Lordships will
not disapprove of my taking upon myself this step without their sanction.

The " Phoenix " having steamed from Greenhithe to Cork, a fair opportunity
has been afforded for testing the engines, and I have to report that they worked
admirably well, though the consumption of coal, owing to the formation of the
boilers, is rather more than was expected. Average speed, 7 knots.

The " Breadalbane " sails remarkably well and is a good sea boat, not at all
too deep, and apparently well adapted for the service on which she is employed ;
she parted company with the squadron on the 10th instant, in latitude
58° 49' 6" N. and longitude 34° 23^ W.

I enclose for their Lordships information copies of instructions I have given
to Lieutenant Elliott, in conmiand of the " Diligence," and the agent of the
transport for their guidance in the event of parting company ; by those, their
Lordships will be informed where I expect to rejoin the transport.

On the 1 1th instant, we had the misfortune to carry away the main top
gallant mast, caused by the heavy rolling of the vessel.

I forward herewith a track chart, shewing the winds and time whilst in tow
of steamers. Also, a set of variations observed on the voyage, and dip and
intensity observations made at Haulbowlinc, Queenstown.

I liave only to add that the crews and officers of the vessels under my charge
are ail in good health, and that their Lorusiiips inay rely upon every exertion
being made to ensure the return of the expedition this season.
I have the honour to be. Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant,

E. A. Inglefield, Commander.

;. .■-:■■■ :. 'No. 3. ■''■■'... • ..• '

Commander iNOLKFiELn to Lieutenant Elliott.

Her Maje8ty'8 Steam Sloop " Phoenix,"
Sir, at Woolwich, the 14th May 1853.

The " Dilige p nnsport having been ordered by my Lords Commissioners
of the Admiralty be supplied to Her Majesty's steam vessel under my
command as her tender ; and having appointed certain officers and men belonging
tO this ship, as per i?iargin, to serve on board that vessel ; it is my direction *&• J- '• M'DonMn,
that you proceed on board and take charge of her as lieutenant commanding ; u,. jno. b. Hobnu,
and I i.ave further to direct that you will consider that vessel, her officers and ji^w""?^' vjj'j'''
crew, in no other light but as a part of this ship, receiving your stores and MiaSpnini ud
provisions from her, and accounting for them to the proper officers as though Twenty-one Nuaea.
they had been supplied to one of the boats of this vessel sent on detached service.

As it is most important, for many reasons, that the ships of the expedition
should not part company during the passage from England to the Arctic Seas,
I enclose a code of general day, night, and fog signals ( independent of those
usually supplied) by which the motions of the tender and transport will be
guided ; and I desire that you will distinctly understand that should any acci-
dent occur from neglect of the officer of the watch or others in not paying
immediate attention to such signals as may be made from this vessel, you will
be held responsible.

You are to report to me every morning by signal the number of your sick,
and at noon, or soon after, your position by meridional altitude and chronometer,
and at all times be prepared to act in concert with this vessel in making such
observations for survey as circumstances will admit.

You are to cause a log to be kept and a journal of all your proceedings,
forwarding the same to me on your return to this vessel. Certain meteorolo-
gical instruments have been supplied from this ship, you will, therefore, direct
the assistant surgeon to make careful register of the same.

You will consider your station at sea about one mile on the starboard quarter
of this ship, but should stress of weather or other unforeseen circumstances be
the cause of the vessels of the expedition parting compony, you will consider
the Greenland Port of Holstcinbourg as the first rendezvous, and should strong
southerly gales (which are not unusual at this time of year) prevail on entering
Davis Straits, you will not delay by endeavouring to make that port, but proceed
at once to Godhaven, or Lievely in Disco, there to await further orders from me.

I enclose a letter from the I)anish ambassador in London, addressed to the
authorities in Greenland, which you -vaW present on your arrival at any of the
Danish settlements, and which will ensure such assistance as you may require
from them. I am, &c.

E. A. Inglefield,
Commander of the Expedition.

No. 4.

Commander Inglefield to Mr. Fawckner, Government Agent on board the

" Breadalbane" Transport.

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix,"
Sir, at Woohvich, the 14th May 1853.

Herewith I enclose a copy of Admiralty Regulations for the guidance of
agents of transports, and the charter party of the " Breadalbane," and I have
to direct that you will pay especial attention to those clauses in the fonner
relative to keeping an inctcpenJent reckoning from tlie master of the vessel. As
it is most important for many reasons that the vessels of the expedition should
not part company on their passage from P^ngland to the Arctic Seas, it is my
positive direction that you impress upon the master of the " Breadalbane," the
importance of this measure, and for the more convenient conveyance of sailing
directions to the vessels of the expedition, I enclose a code of general day, night,
and fog signals, which will be used by this ship, independent of Marryat'i
.Stfrnnls with wliirli t.lie transport is nrovidod.

I ou will consider your station at sea about one mile on the port quarter of
this ship, but should stress of weather or other unforeseen cu"cumstances be the
cause of the vessels of the expedition parting company, you are to consider the

A 3

.f>.t :•>

;«i»t,'l|.| I

jr .1|4btf >.■

^1 «»

Greenland Port of Holsteinbourg as the first rendezvous, and should strong
southerly gales (which are not unusual at this time of year) prevail on entering
Davis Straits, you will not delav by endeavouring to make that port, but proceed
at once to Godhaven, or Lievcly in Disco, there to await further orders from me.

I enclose a letter from the Danish Ambassador in London, addressed to the
authorities in Greenland, which you will present on your arrival at any of the
Danish settlements, and which will ensure such assistance as you may require
flrom them.

I have further to direct that you will continually bear in mind that all orders
given by you on beard the " Breadalbane" are to be directly and only to the
master of that vessel, and you will keep a private journal of all the proceedings
on board for my information. I am, &c.

' £. A. Inglefield, ' '

Commander of the Expedition.

MJ'

No. 5.
Commander Inglefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty.

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix,"
^ ". . .' . , ^, , .1.., -, , at Lievely, Disco, 11th July 1853.

'^it, ' ' * (Received 18th August.)

I HAVE the honour to acquaint you, for the information of ray Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty, that I arrived at this port on the 8th instant at mid-
night, with the " Breadalbane " and " Diligence " in tow, having sailed from
Holstj^inburg on the 6th instant, where I had lain from the 27th of last month.

On the 31st I was joined by the " Diligence," which ship had parted company
in a fog off Sukkertoppen, and, much to my joy, on the following morning by
the transport, which had parted company in a gale three days' sail from Cape
Farewell. Every exertion was made to complete the coaling, watering, and refit
of the squadron, and everything has been conducted to my entire satisfaction.

The responsibility I now take upon myself in sending the " Diligence" to
England is not incurred without mature deliberation, and I trust their Lordships
will approve, under the foUowng particular circumstances, of this deviation
from my instructions.

On my arrival at this anchorage I found the whaler " Rose," of Hull, had
put in here on the 27th June, seriously damaged by a nip in the ice during a
south-east gale in Melville Bay ; and her sinking state hud obliged the master
to run her ashore at the top of this harbour, where, after a survey carefully made
by certain competent persons, she was considered wholly irreparable ; and, a
portion of her stores having been landed, was abandoned.

On the morning of my arrival I took the carpenter of this ship, his mate, and
the caulker, and in company with them made a minute inspection of the damage
the " Rose" had sustained. We were shortly convinced that it was too serious
to admit of the possibility of the most temporary repair ; tlie rottenness of the
timber further proving the uselessness of an attempt. On my return to this
ship I found Mr. Couldrey (the master) had come on board to sec me, and upon
his formal written declaration that the ship had been abandoned, and learning
she was insured, I took possession of her tor the benefit of the underwriters.
My next duty, I considered was to provide for hur crew, which consisted of the
master and forty-six men, as per list enclosed, all of whom were housed in an
old fishing shed, some distance from the settlement. Accompanied by the late
master of the " Rose," I proceeded to their abode, and having called the people
together, inquired whether they would prefer working their passage to England
if I provided them with the means, or waiting till the return of this expedition
or the Danish vessels, for an opportunity of getting home. With one voice they
declared their anxiety to return to England immediately, and I then pointed out
how I should provide for, but what I required of them, stating that though it
was quite out of my power to promise any remuneration for their services, yet
that I doubted not, if their conduct merited reward, it would not be withheld
from them by a British Admiralty. I showed them that I should require their
perfect subordination to the officer in command of the vessel, and that they would
first have to land 100 tons of coal before they could put on iioitid any of the
ship's stores. At this extra work (without payment) there was some demur ; but
I insisted upon the necessity (as I could not detain the expedition imder my
command for this service), and the coals were required for our homeward voyage.

Firm to my purpose, I desired those who 'were willing to aeree to my terms to
divide themselves from the rest ; and I was glad to find that all passed over
together, fu^d shouting thcec cheertifor " Old EaglAD^," and three a^ott) for the
captain of the " Phconix," declared themselves, one and all, ready to do what-
ever I required, and commence their work that very day.

I have been thus particular (for obvious reasons) in stating the circumstances
under which the " Diligence" is manned ; au'^ I trust their Lordships will be
disposed to consider in a favourable light thii^ brave crew, who brought their
vessel to Disco in a sinking state from Melville Bay, rather Uian desert her,
as is so generally the case.

I cannot but trust the responsibility 1 take in thus detaching one vessel from
the expedition at its outset will meet with their Lordships' approval, when I state
that I have been influenced, not alone by the unfortunate position of die ship-
wrecked mariners, but the interests of the Crown, inasmuch that I learn their
passage must in the other case have been paid by Her Majesty's Government to
the Danish Government at the rate of Is. per day per man, and the further
expenses of a passajee from Denmark ; moreover, their Lordships will obtain the
services of the " Duigence" some months sooner than they otherwise could, and
I am most sanguine that all the service that ship can render to the expedition
has been performed.

I have entrusted the command of the " Diligence " for this peculiar service to
Lieutenant Marryat, whose zeal, ability, and discretion have gained my perfect
confidence, and whose disappointment at not accompanying us further on our
interesting voyage I trust will be graciously considered by their Lordships.

I cannot (fismiss the tender to England without calling theur Lordships*
attention to her late commander, Lieutenant Elliott, whom I had hoped to have
made the bearer to them in September of the intelligence gained from the Arctic
squadron. He has navigated and worked that too deeply laden vessel in gales
of wind and fogs, and amongst rocks and shoals to my entire satisfaction ; and
on our passage to Cape Farewell, to the admiration of all the squadron. As
second in command, his invaluable services, from previous experience in these
seas, forbid my sending him home at this early period of our voyage. I cannot,
however, forbear making their Lordships acquainted, on this occasion, with his
merit and ability.

By the " Diligence " I send to England three men, whose cases were considered
by the surgeon as requiring hospital treatment ; and a carpenter, whose utter
uselessness and general bad conduct made him a burden to the expedition, and
an eyesore to my crew. These vacancies I have filled up from volunteers
amongst the shipwrecked seamen.

The state of the ice in Melville Bay and the favourable nature of the season
are points that their Lordships wiU be better informed upon by Mr. Couldrey
than by any remarks from me ; I therefore beg to refer their Lordships to that
gentleman, who has promised to wait upon the Board on his arrival in England,
and to Lieutenant Marryat for any furtner information relative to the expedition
I have the honour to command.

A carrier pigeon was despatched from this ship on the 7th inst. with a fresh
north wind ; it remained one night flying about the vessels that were then in
tow, and afterwards took its departure. I state this, and enclose a fac simile of
the billet that was fastened round its leg, since it has been affirmed that a bird
returned from Sir John Ross's ship in these seas, and it may be possible that mine
will reach England. I have three pairs that I purpose leaving at Beechey Island,
to be conveyed to Sir Edward Belcher next season, that he may thus commu-
nicate with the dep6t when other means are impracticable.

I hope to sail for Upemavik to-morrow, and have now only to request you
will assure their Lordships that no exertion will be spared to ensure the
return of the expedition this year.

The late surgeon of the " Rose " voluntarily takes charge of the invalids ;
and I enclose for their Lordships' information a copy of the orders I have
given to Lieutenant Marryat, and a track chart of the " Phoenix " and
" Breadalbane," up to the present date, as well as certain observations on the dip,
intensitv, and vftnatioB of the needle. I awi. &c=

E. A. Inolbkbu), Commander.

A 4

No. 6.

Commander E. A. Inolefield to Lieutenant Josh. H. Markyat.

Sir,

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Pha3nix," at Lievely,
Disco, the 12th July I85;j.

Having appointed ybu to the command of the "Diligence" tender to this
ship, manned with the crew of the whaler " llosc " of Hull, it is my direction,
on the receipt of this, that you repair on board, and take charge of her
accordingly.

You are fully aware of the object I have in view, in sending the " Diligence "
to F-^gland at this early period of our voyage ; and I take this opportunity of
assu.. ig you, that I cannot but regret the necessity that deprives the expedition
of your valuable services.

On my departure i'rom this harbour, you will use every exertion to get the
remainder of the coals out of the " Diligence," landing and stacking them on
the rocky point to the south of the settlement.

Having performed this service, you will commence to ballast the tender with
the anchors, cables, provisions and stores of the disabled vessel, carefully
selecting the most valuable for shipment, and should these not prove sufficient
to bring the vessel into sailing trim, the oil casks filled with water will readily
supply the deficiency.

Bemg in all respects ready for seu, you will proceed without delay to England,
going either north or south about, as you may deem most convenient, or the
wind may lead ; and on arrival at the first Pritish port, you will convey the
accompanying despatches to the Admiralty, and, there reporting your arri\id,
await their Lordships' further orders.

In appointing you to the command of this vessel, under such peculiar circum-
stances, I have been guided by the ability, zeal, and discretion you have always
exhibited whilst imder my conmiand; and it is the latter quality which will now
be most cssentiall}' requisite for the good conduct of your voyage.

Your crew are a party of distressed British subjects, without pay, but under
discipline (as under the Pendant), and it will rccjuire not only much tact, but
much good management, to keep in order a band of men, wliose previous service
at sea has had but one object for a day's work, viz., the amount of spoil each
could earn in his exciting and perilous occupation.

You will readily perceive the difference of the service now required of them
(but which they have one and all agreed to perform), to that of their past life ;
and placing the most perfect reliance in yoin* management, I have only to add
that I trust their Lordships will take into consideration, at my rcciucst, the
disappointment I am aware that 3'ou experience at not continuing the voyage to
Beechey Island.

For the information of my Lords Comnn'ssioners of the Admiralty, you will
keep a log of your proceedings, and a tract chart ; and, lest they should be
pleased to make the crew some payment for their services, you arc hereby
directed to keep a careful statement of the work performed by each man, his
ability, and general conduct. Enclosed I send you a list of tlie sliipwrecked
crew, and 1 have ordered three men, as per margin, who are considered by the
surgeon fit subjects fm* hospital treatment, to be discharged to the " Diligence,"
and a carpenter ( whose character renders him \iselcss to the expedition) for a
passage to England.

You will leave a letter here to await my arrival, acquainting me of your
proceedings up to the time of your departure, and enclose a list oithe coals and
provisions landed, and the st(nes you have shipped.

I am, &c.

E. A. iNGLEFIKl.n,

Commander of the l-^xpedition

9
II.

Orders from Sir Edward Bdcher, C.6., to tlie Arctic Squadron.

No. 1.

Captain Sir Edward Bblciieh, C.B., to the respective Captains, Commanders, &c<,
which may now be within Lancaster Sound. k'-

H. M. S. " Assistance," Wellington Channel,
^ Gentlemen, 26th July 1863.

Until further express directions under my hand, excepting under the
following cases, no vessel under my command, or which may arrive within sight cf
the vessels under my orders, is to proceed beyond Beechey Island on her passage
to England, until I reach (and give further directions at) the said rendezvous.
Case 1. If H. M. S. " Investigator" should fortunately escape from the ice-
bound position where ComiiiHndcr M'Clure left her, and reach Beechey Island,
then the instructions directed to Commander M'Clure will be carried out ; that
vessel alone taking home all invalids, &c., and leaving all the available provisions,
beyond six months,' for this squadron.

Case 2. If uny unforeseen obstacle should retard or prevent my communicating

E;rsonally, or by letter, with H. M. S. " North Star," or the senior officer at
eechey Island, before the 1 st September, then all supernumeraries which may
arrive from H. M. S. " Investigator" are to be embarked on board H. M. 8.
" North Star," which vessel will be sufficient to convey them to England.

Case .3. In the event of the " Intrepid " reaching Beechey Island, she is to be
detained, taking the place of the " North Star," should she leave to proceed
under Case 2.

., t:\ •' Edward Beixhek,

. -, \; , .': Captain Commanding Arctic Expedition.

No. 2.

Commander Inglefield to Commander Pullen.

Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix," off Cape Riley,
Sir, 17th August 1853.

I HAVE to request you will briefly give me your opinions in writing os to the
course you would consider it your duty to take, were you acting under such
directions as you are aware I have received from mv Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty, and with reference to the General Order from Sir Edward
Belcher to the respective Captains, &c., dated July 26th, 18.53.

I have, &c. ■* ' '

K. A. Inglefield,
Commander and .Senior Officer at Beechey Island.

^ No. 3. i

Commander Pullen to Commander Inglefield.

Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Beechey Island,
Sir, " 18th August 1853.

In compliance with your request, as contained in your letter of yesterday's
date, for my opinion in writing as to the course I should pursue were I acting
under such orders as you have shown me from the Lords of the Admiralty, I
can only state, that on my arrival, finding such to be the case, I should deem it
best to follow under all circumstances those most stringent instructions from
the Admiralty. Had Sir E. Belcher received his orders, and could know the
state of things here, I feel confident that he would never think of making any
alteration in such instructions.

I have, &c.

W. J. S. Pullen,
Commander H.M.S. "North Star."

No. 4.

Commander iNOLBrntLD to Sir Edwabd Belcher, C.B.

•,o

Sir,

Her Majesty's Stea'a Sloop " Phoenix," at Beechey
Island, 20th August 1853.

'1 HAVE the honour to acknowledge your general order of the 26th ultimo, and
in reference thereto beg to acquaint you that I cannot but feel the great delicacy
of the position in which I am placed, with orders from the Admiralty and your-
Hclf so diametrically opposed ; and it is only after the most mature consideration
of the circumstances of the case, — in which I feel by their Lordships' order of
1 1th May, I, as senior officer at Beechey Island, have full power to act, — that I
have promised to set aside the instructions you have forwarded to all captains,
commanders, &c. in Lancaster Sound. I may add, however, that there are two
cases in which I should not have hesitated in deciding otherwise ; and these are,
tirst, had I learnt that the ships now in Wellington Channel were so distressed
as to require assistance ; and, second, could I perceive through the information
afforded me by Captain PuUen, that you have the slightest hopes of finding the
missing expedition, or that you had any other intention than that of returning
to England as soon as the ships of your squadron were liberated.

I have only to add that I trust you will approve my following out to the
letter instructions so urgent as those given by my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, and give me credit for the desire I have exhibited to communicate
with you, and deposit the despatches from the Government within your reach,
by my journey up the western shore of Wellington Channel as far as Cape
Rescue, under circumstances and in a manner with which I believe you cannot
fail to be satisfied.

I have the honour to enclose a copy of a letter with its reply addressed by
me to Commander Pullen, on the subject of the orders conveyed by him from
you; and

I am, &c. v;v./. :,,y -,

£. A. Inolefielo, Commander.

-/J

CoALB AT Disco.

Chas. K. Renwick, Chief Engineer, to Commander Inglefield.

Report relative to the Coals received for Trial at Lievely, Island of Disco.

, , H. M. Steam Vessel " Phoenix,"

At Sea, 20th September 1853.

The weight of these coals, bulk for bulk, is nearly similar to those now on
board the " Phoenix," which are of the best Welsh steam coal. They were
first tried alone, in a furnace so burned down as to shov^ whether or not they
ignited quickly ; they required the frequent use of the fire irons before combus-
tion thoroughly began, and then they burned slowly, with little flame, throwing
out, however, a good heat. They were next tried mixed with an equal quantity
of Welsh coal, and succeeded well, emitting a most intense heat with little or
no smoke.

I am of opinion that using these coals alone it would not be practicable tO'
keep steam sufficient for any other than the lowest ^ade of expansion, but I
believe mixed, say one half or two thirds with Enghsh coal, they will prove a
powerful and lasting fuel.

''asdi ii-XT'

Cu Aa. K. Hv.ti'mjr.K. Chipf Plnorinppr.

1 »

''I

>:< /fvj,< Captain Ingleiield's Report, 4th October 1853.

W'! i im^t- ■ .

^t0 ... -

No. 1. • ^

li?' ■ '

it^ti Commander Inolbfielo to the Sboebtaht of thb Aomibaltt, London. .^

3, Her Majesty's Steam Sloop, "Phoenix,*

{„,, off Thurso, 4th October 1853.

Sir, n «'' *>nt' .rHl 1«!. (Received, 7th October.) ffyM

I HAVE the honour to report to y oil for the information of my Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Arctic Regions, brinffine with
me the important intelligencu of the safety of the " Investigator," ana the dis-
covery of tne North-weet passage, though, unhappily, withoiit finding the slightest
traces of the missing Expedition, either by this route, or on the field of search
occupied by the squadron under Sir Edward Belcher's command.

2. 1 am the bearer of despatches from that officer and Captain Kellett, and
Lieutenant Cresswell of the " Investiijator," whom I appointed from the " North
Star" as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters and journals of
Commander M'Clure. ''

3. As his journal is of considerable len^h, I will endeavour to acquaint yoti
with the substance of it, that their Lordships may thus be early informed of the
leading features of the " Investigator's" discoveries ; but ere I enter into this
matter, I deem it to be my duty to acquaint their Lordships of the result of the
expedition I have the honour to command ; and, though I nave carried out their
Lordship's instructions to the letter, and I trust to thei- entire satisfaction, it has
not been without great difficulty, considerable peril to the safety of this vessel,
and the total loss of the " Breadalbane" transport, without the loss of a single life.

4. This unfortunate event, which occurred on the morning of the 21st of
August off Beechey Island, no human power could have averted ; and my own
vessel, which at that time had the Transport actually in tow, barely escaped a
similar fate, receiving a severe nip, which rose the stem several feet, and
arched the quarter-deck, destroying the rudder and screw. One of the beams
forward was sprung, and the port bow partially stove, breaking one of the riders
and forcing in the planking. This latter damage, there is no doubt, may have
been sustuned in a heavy gale on the morning of the ,18th August, when the
ship was severely nipped off Cape Riley. The ice-nmster is of opinion, it
was received in. Melville Bay, whilst forcing a passage under full steam
through some heavy ice ; however this may be, I have little doubt, but that for
the solid nature of the stowage of our hold, and the strengthenings fitted in
England, we must have shared the same fate as the unfortunate " Breadalbane."

5. By the " Diligence," their Lords will have been informed of my proceed-
ings up the time of my arrival at Disco. I will, therefore, now briefly state
what we have since done, and then in obedience to the 5th clause of their Lord-
ships' orders, relate what information I have obtained with reference to the
Expedition, and the discoveries which have been made.

6. On leaving Disco, I proceeded with the " Breadalbane" in tow, to Upcr-
navik, there to obtain dogs, and to communicate with the inspector of North
Greenland, concerning the disposal of the " Rose" of Hull. On the afternoon
of the 14th July we reached this place, and the ships heading off, whilst I
landed, m two hours we proceeded up the coast.

7- The following day, passing Cape Shakleton in a calm, I took advantage of
the fine weather, to obtain some looms from the rookery for the use of the Arctic
ships, and in three hours we obtained a sufficient quantity to give each of our own
vessels atiay's fresh meat, reserving enough to supply the " North Star's" crew
with provisions for ten days, independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland.

mti^niih'it au 'tliiti^is jj joL-,.

'■r»iil ,j?toOa 'jniAf hili ad? tr'

S»5!SS.=ISi*8»W»i»%«-i.

1 !

8 On the l6th of July we entered Melville Bay. and found it packed with ice
in some places very heav^ from recent pressure, und the land floe unfortunately
oroken away, thus depnving um of the udvuiitugc of its edge for docking the
vessels in case of a threatened nip.

9. On the 18th of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became
necessnry to shift the screw, and this was done whilst beset nniungst heavy floes
almost out of sight of land. From the nmst-head no lend could be seen at
mid-day, or indeed any water but the pool in which the Hliips were uflout ; but
at midnight wc proceeded along a narrow lane which opened a way to the
northward.

10. Thick togs and southerly winds which closed the ice up, |)rcvehtcd our

gitting through Melville Bay till the 25th July, when we stretched away from
ape York for Cape Warrendcr. Fog prevented our taking observations whilst
crossing over, and experiencing a strong southerly set; wc found, on the weather
clearing, that the ship was within two miles of Cape Liverpool, though wc had
steered for Cape Warrendcr with due allowance for currents.

Reaching <>vcr to the north shore, (which we then kept close on board,) we
steered up I^ancuster Sound, passing large floes which were driving to the
eastward.

11. On th(! morning of the 29th July we found a barrier of ice stretching
from shore to shore, and which, evidently, had never broken away this season.
We followed Us edge for several miles in the hope of finding a lane through, but
were eventually obliged to bear up for Dundas Harbour, (in Croker Fiay) there
to await a change.

' In coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding several
tents pitched on a point six miles to the westward of Cape Warrenuer ; but
shortly found them to be the habitations of a party of Esquimaux who had
come over from Ponds Bay. Amongst these people I found many preserved
meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr. Goldner's name; candle boxes,
some spars, and other Government stores, which led nie to fear that they had
visited the dep6t at Wollaston Island.

12. In Dundas Harbour we lay for eight days anxiously awaiting the breaking
up of the ice; and on the 6th August, hoping that I might be able to examine,
and, if neceasary, remove the stores from Wollaston Island, wc got under weigh,
and stretched across in that direction, but heavy hummocky ice prevented our
even sighting it, and we were forced to bear up again for the north shore. By
this time a light north-westerly wind had eased oft' the ice, and I determined
to push on as far as practicable under steam ; the wind holding for forty-eight
hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Becchey Island on the 8th August.
In many cases the ice opened just as wc reached a block, h nich would other-
wise have stopped our progress, and we were told by the officers of the " North
Star" that no water was to be seen from Cape Riley the day before we
arrived. Thus their Lordships will perceive that no time was lost in reaching
our destination.

13. Erebus and Terror Bay was full of heavy hummocky ice, of great thick-
ness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartri(!ge, and too rough and too
much inundated with deep fresh-water pools to admit the possibility of landing
the stores on Beechey Island, or puttmg them on board the " North Star
a mile and a half distant, according to my orders.

14. I had therefore no choice but to place them in what I deemed the most
convenient und practicable position ; and, in my capacity us senior officer at
Beechey Island, determined on Cape Riley as the httcst spot, and even more
accessible than the island.

Accordingly on the following morning we commenced our work; and having
secured the transport in a bight of the land-ice, immediately abreast of a steep
cliffy, the people were now set to work, watch and watch, night and day. To
expedite tne service I ordered all hands to be sent from the " North Star," with
their haiumocks, and desiring them to be victualled from our ship— the time
was thus ^ved which would have been lost by their going and returning to
their vessel, upwards of two miles and a half distant.

1.5. The steamer lay with her fires banked up, and the towing hausert in, ready

at a tUMOiciitB mtiuiuu mi uikc luc liuiieujuiluii buuii: iu caac ui ttic icc viuoiiifj ^

and DOW everything neing set forward systematically, and 130 tons of coal
landed in the mt thirty hours, I determined to proceed myself up Wellingtcn

Channel by boat and aledgc in ncarch of Captain Piillen, who had l)ecn unscnt
from the " North Star" more than a month, anil, as his provisions must have
been expended, there was some apprehension as to his safety.

I had the double motive of deniring to convey to Sir Edward Hclchcr his
despatches, as it would only be by such means ne c<tuld possibly learn of my
arrival until next season unless he should return to Decchey Island.

16. I started in my whale boat with a month's provisions at 9 n-m- on the
10th August, leaving written orders with the First Lieutenant, a copy of
which I enclose marked M. I, in case of any unforeseen casualty preventing my
return to the ship by the time the transport was cleared, to run no risk ot the
ships being caugiit tor the winter, buL to proceed to England without me.

17. Wellington Channel was then full of ice, and so rough with large cracks
and pools that it defied sIcdKinu;, excepting with a strong party. Lui)ding,
therefore, on Cornwnllis Island, a little alwve Barlow Creek, we made iin
attempt to carry a small punt over the ice; but this proved ineffectual, and I
determined at last to proceed with Mr. Alston, Mate of the " North Star," und
two men, by land to Cape Rescue. Each carried a blanket bag with a fort-
night's provisions, and reached with in<ich exertion the Cape at 5 p m. of 13th
August. A piece of open water off Helen Haven prevented our procccdiii]
further, and here we learnt, by notice, of Captain Pullen's* return to his ship, am
of his having communicated with Sir Edward Belcher.

18. Depositing in the Caira duplicates of their Lordships' despatches for
that officer, we commenced our return, and reached the tent on the
fifth day of our absence, footsore, and much exhausted with this new mode of
journeying in the Arctic regions, having travelled 120 miles. Sleeping without
shelter on the bare beach, at a temperature several degrees below freezing-
point, was a trial for all, more rspecially as we could not eat the pemmican, and
subsisted wholly on biscuit and tea, with the exception of a few dovekics, which
I shot.

19- Up till the 12th August, Wellington Channel was blocked with ice as far
as the eye could reach. The Plan marked C. 1 shows its position at this date,
and the alteration I have made in the coast line of the western shore.

Abundance of white whale, seals, and walrus were seen, and some white hares
and lemings on the land. Tracks of bears vcrc found on the ice, but only
one seen.

20. It is remarkable that we traced and followed for many miles the dog-
sledge tracks of Mr. Penny, as I'resh upon the sandy beach as though they had
been made the day previous, and it must be remembered that these were
originally upon ice.

21. I returned to the ship on the afternoon of the 16th August, and found
that wind and changes in the ice had obliged the First Lieutenant to move the
transport away from Cape Riley, and thus the process of unlading had been
carried on but slowly by means of sledges ; 856 packages had, however, been
transported to the *' North Star" l)y these means.

22. On the 17th August, a heavy gule from the south-cast set the ice on to
the Cape so suddenly and with such violence, that both ships very nnrrowly
escapea being lost. The " Phoenix " was severely nipped, the ice bearing
down upon her with such force that the six hawsers and two cables laid out
were snapped like pack thread, and the ship forced against the land ice, lifting
her stem .5 feet, and causing every timber to groan. The hands were turned
up to be ready in cnse the ship should break up, though there would have bi-en
small chance in such an event of saving a man, as the wind blew so violently-,
with snow, that it was impossible to face it ; and the ice in motion around the
ship was boiling up in a manner that would have defied getting a safe footing to
the most active of our crew.

23. The plan marked C. 2 will show the manner in which we were driven
continually away from Cape Riley, by pressure from ice, until the 20th August,
when the " Breadalbane " was carried tut amongst some floe pieces and set into
the Straits. I pushed out under steam into the pack, w ith the hope of rescuing
her ; but it was not till I made a second effort later in the day, that we suc-
ceeded in getting her out, and then only with considerable difficulty.

Having once more got her alongside the derrick, we commenced to clear with al>
hands, as I intended to finish the work without cessation, if we laboured all night.

24. Whilst thus employed I received, by an official letter from Captain Pullen,

B 3

a copy of wbieh I cnelow, marked L 1, • report of tbe meUuraholjr intdligeaoe
of the death of M. Bellot, who had been tent by Captain Pullen on hia return
during my absence, to ac(|iiaint me of the Mme, and to carry on the original
dcipatcheN to Sir Edward Beicbci This unfortunate oocurrence took place on
the night of the gtii ''""ti M. Rcllof ^'ith two men were driven off from the
shore 01 i (toe; ai t>er, whil»' rtn unnoitring from the top of a

hummock, hr ns bio.... ot. iolcnt gust of viixi into a deep crack in the

ice, and perisiK.i by drownn..^ V two mcti wtrt- nm'rd by a comparative
miracle, and af^cr driving about )r thirtv hours without food were enabled to
land and rf\n\n their fellow travellers, who gave them provix ih, and then all
returned * > ship, bringing back in safety the despatches} but three of them
fit subjecl. .ly for invaliding.

A Rcpariit« letter will ifivp their Lordoliip further information relative to the
death of this ex 'lent officer, who was sincerely regrett'') by us all. Mis zeal,
ability, and quiet uuiip ming uninner made him indeed I oved.

99. The ice closing ag.. in obliged us to quit Cape Uiley before midnight,
and in endeavouring to push tnc ships into a b<'yht in the land floe, the
" Phoenix " touchea the ground, hut came off again immediately without
damage. The whole night watt nncnt in .stiuggling to get the ships into a place
of security, but the ice drove both vcRseU fast to the westward, when, at
3.30 A.M. of the 2lst August, the ice cloHing ail around, both vessels were
secured to a floe edge ; but with steam ready to push through the instant the
ice should loosen.

26. .Shortly, however, a ropid run of the outer floe to the westward placed
the " Phrenix " in the most perilous position. I ordered the hands to be turned
up, not that aught could be done, but to be ready in case of the worst to provide
fur their safety. The ice, however, easing off, having severely nipped this
vessel, passed astern to the " Breudalbane,** which ship either received the
pressure less favourably, or was less equal to the emergency, for it passed
through her starboard l)ow, and in less tnan fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty
fathoms of water, giving the people barely time to save tlu inselves, and leaving
the wreck of a boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her.
Anticipating such a catiistrophe, I got over the s'e ~ of the " Phcenix " as soon
as the Transport was struck, and!^ was beside bci when she filled, and can
unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved her. Fortunately
nearly the whole of the Government stores had been landed.

Enclosed, a list, ma i L 2, sets forth the quantity < :u kind of stores that
were landed A Cape ley and Beechey Island ; also, what was lost in the
Transport.

27. H iving taken on br)ard the shipwrecked crew, every precaution wos used
with regard to the safety of Her Majesty's steam vessel ; but it was not till the
morning of the 22d Aogust that we succeeded in getting her to a safe position
in Erebus and Terror Bay, where the ship was again secured to the lanu floe.

28. 1 now resolved to lose no time in getting to England ; but that I might
have the advantage of the latest intelligence from tne Arctic Squadron, I
determined upon takins the opinion of the ice master as to the latest date he
considered I could safely remain at Beechey Island. Enclosure, marked L 3,
is a copy of this report ; and now I must beg to refer their Lordships to the
general order from the senior officer* delivered to me by Captain Pullen on
nis return from Sir Edward Belcher, and, whilst their Lordships will readily
understand how awkward was the position in which 1 tl ' . became placed, still
it was not without very serious deliberation, the written opinion of Captair
Pullen upon the subject, a copy of which I enclose, marked L 4, ana the
authority as granted to the Senior Officer at Beechey Island by their Lordships
Memo., 1 1th May 1853, that I replied to Sir Edward Belcher's order by a letter,
the copy of which, i^vKkcd L 5, I enclose, and which I acted on, delaying till
the last moment, (anu o days after my ice master advised our departure,)
with the hope of Sir Edv . 1 Belcher's amval.

29. Their Lordship vr>i < U/Jt. be-"' ine out in the steps I have taken ; and
though I feel how serio:;i "a : -^ r:?5K)R;.ibility I hr.ve thus incurred, it has been
done with the single m('iivi> <>. i'iv: pablic good, and acting up to the ftill spirit
of mv instructions. . .. .,„.......»..• ,-z

I. >{,{ MJlijiils'iiiilj n {;1i4jji>H»nrii' i'- tT* I'll

•K-

-Trrr-TT—rTT —

i>as<Wl|slin>r'ni«lMhw

aa Oa the 8401 Augu* I Mii«i ttim Beecbiv Iiknd, bot mm ihoctly t'oroml to
Uka «faf Iter in a littU) h»rl|our we ditoovcKd, aiki were obligtd to run into in a fog.
Thi» narlmur, viKht inilm cait of (^apc Fv)lfb«)t, • ptnn of which 1 rncio««^
marked C 3, wan naoied Fort Cirahain, and ia a well ihclterrd poMition, with
good anchorage and frcHh wi)tc Many ham were acen, and nine ihot.

31. Here wc lay during n viou nt gale from the eaatward, which wai ho furioui
in the guiti that though th) »lii|) lay uiidrr the lee of a lofty hill, nho dro«re
with two anchom ahead, until -Ue brou^i;!^ n]' in forty fathonu water.

The gale itc-t vnitt l)odif!« ot <ip the ;Mraii-< until it came to a ilcnd Htand,
doubtlfiH from it having filltd up the whole chnnm I to Beechey iRland, iind
most ft)rtunntc wbh it that wc pfot away ■•■ !i<"n we <iid. For two day* not a
spoonful of water could Im> hciv iVoin the nei^hbotirinir hill, and the irmperHture
fulling rapidly, with the pruiipect nf an early wintef I bc-p^an to fear we
hod founcf our winter quarters; indccil, it was a matter dcptuJ^nt entirely on
the wind whether wc should get out thin eason. A watch was sci. ui report the
state of the ice ; the ice masters and oHicers frequently visiting the look-out
hill. On the morning of the 31st August the ice rommencc^l to move out of
tVif hi:rl)our, and, carrying the ship with it, we narrowly escaped Iw'mu, driven
'no the pack, which was only prevented by slipping the cable (with i hawser
•tti.rhed) and forcing the vessel under steam through a crack in the Hoe. 'I'hc
II I . Hcr was cut through by the ice in endeavouring to weigh the itnchor, which
wa.. thus lost. I now deemed it advisable for the safetv of the vessel to proceed
to the inner bight of the harbour, which lying behind a shallow spit, iH-rfectly
secured her from ice driving in or out, and, should we Ik> unable to get away
this year, would prove a good position for winter quarters.

I was ill prepared for such a contingency, as we had not left on hoard
sufficient provisions for our now much-increased crew, having the wople of the
three other vessels of my squadron with me, besides supemunnerarics and
invalids.

32. In the evening a small crack along the north shore > the east*
ward was observed, and we immediately tripped the anchor aixl teamed up,
but it closed ere we could reach it ; wc thereiurc returned for the niLrht ; but m
the morning, I was glad to find it again opened, and we proceeden inder full
steam and sail, with a light northerly wind, towards the eastward. Nothing
but a powerful steamer could have effected her escape at that period, md now,
with one or two slight detentions for a couple of nours, we made oiit of the
Straits, passing Cape Warrender on the morning of the 2d Septemb^T ; and
here I beg you wiU call their Lordships' attention to this position as < me well
applicable for a despatch rendezvous.

33. During my stay at Port Dundas (which is immediately under tho cliffs
forming Cape warrender), 1 ordered a large cairn to be built on a remii "-kable
rocky peninsula at its entrance. This cairn is upwards of sixteen feet in 1 ight,
twenty feet in circumference, and painted red with a white cross ; its posi:ion is
such, that a vessel sighting Cape Warrender must perceive it ; an<l as nenrl v all
the whalers every year sight this Cape, I conceive it to be an admirable po- tion
(should their Lordships desire to send despatches to .Sir Edward Belcher lext
year by the whalers) for these despatches to be deposited.

For sailing marks I have made sketches of the coast in two positions ; nmoi qst
the drawings are these views marked D 1 and 2, duplicates ot which I have -it
with Sir Kdward Belcher; and I believe it to be Captain Pullon's intent i n,
unless dii( cted otherwise by his senior, to have un ofliccr and party rpnd\ 'o
receive any communication next year, ond in return to forward his intclligei c
by the some opportunity. Should a Government vessel be sent out iicm
England, she would of cour.se carry the party on to Beechey Island.

with light winds we succeeded in getting out of Lancaster Sound on the
3d September, the ice proving unfavourable for examining the dep6t at Wollc.ston
Island, which I had intended doing.

34. We arrived at Lievely, Disco, on the 9th September, and immediately
commcn('f<i coaling. The barometer threatening, a southerly gale induced me
to pass th rough the Waigat to escape it, ana in the darkness of night,
runni'ig under full sail and steam, we were nearly going stem on to an iceberg
100 feet iu height, to avoid which we rounded to within half pistol shot of a
rock awash at the entrance of the Moligute, and which, though not laid down in
the charts, we supposed the ship was weli dear of, a strong set through th >
channel to the northward umst have caused this deception.

B 4

t-.

•16 '■ ■,:./,--., ;■,..■.'':,'

35. Whilst the coaling was being completed, I made arraneements with the
inspector of North Greenland concerning the disposal of the null and spars of
the stranded whaler " Rose."

For the more convenient disposal of her remains I blew her up, and having
landed and placed under charge of the Governor the masts and ^pars, with a
list of their prices (a copy of which, marked L 6, I enclose), we took on board
for firewood such of the debris of the hull as would otherwise have been appro-
priated by the Esquimaux, leaving the remainder convenient firewood for vessels
touching there, to be obtained at 1 4*. a fathom, the price to be received by the
Governor, and remitted through the Danish Government to the British Admi-
ralty for the benefit of the underwriters.

Having completed these arrangements, coaled, watered, and refitted, we were
detained two days longer by a strong north-east gale, but on the morning of the
1 7th September proceeded to sea.

36. At Lievely I obtained information of a coal mine, about twenty-five miles
from the harbour, on the southern shore of the island ; and I am told that the
coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might take 1,000 tons.
For burning in stoves it is preferred by the Dunes to hnglish coal. 1 obtained
a sutticient quantity of an mferior sort to make trial in our boilers. A copy of
the chief engineer s report I enclose ( Marked L 7). and I have retained on
board four casks of this fuel for their Lordships' disposal.

37- On the 18th September I put into Holstcinborg to obtain sights to com-

flete our meridian distances, and satisfy mc as to the rates of our chronometers,
n this harbour (a complete survey of which was made by Mr. Stanton, the
masttr, during our fir.it visit, and which is marked C 4,) we found the " True-
love," Captain Parker, which had put in the day previously with her bow stove.
She had received this damage amongst the ice in the gale of the previous Wednes-
day. I rendered him every assistance with a carpenter and stores, and towed
him to sea at daylight on ihe morning of the 20th September, carrying him out
to an offing of sixty miles. He reports that all the whalers were caught amongst
the ice in that gale, and he much feared they had received some damage ; but
upon his acquainting me, they were all in such close company that the crews of
any disabled vessels would surely escape to the others, I did not deem it neces-
sary to delay my return to England by going over to the fisliing ground.

Since rounding Cape Farewell, a succession of strong northerly and westerly
A\ inds have favoured our return, and we sighted land on the 3rd instant.

38. And now. Sir, I beg to narrate in a summary manner the intelligence
gleaned from the searching squadrons ; and, first with reference to Sir Eciward
Belcher. I have little else to say but that he wintered in a spot he had named
Northumberland Sound in latitude 76' H-J N., and longitude 97° W., near the
position now marked in the charts of the Queen's Channel as Cape Sir John
Franklin. From Captain Pullen I learnt that not the slightest traces of the
missing expedition had been met with, either by this or the western branch of
the searching squadron, and that it was evidently the intention of Sir Edward
Belcher to return to Beechey Island as soon as possible. For the rest. Sir
Edward's despatch will convey all further details.

39. Captain Kellett wintered at Dealy Island, Melville Island; he had a
narrow escape of losing ;»Is ship on the night of his departure from Beechey
Island : she grounded off Cape Collwuni, and was only got off after the ice had
set down, upon her casting her over on her broadside, and with the loss of sixty
feet of her false keel.

It was a party from his vessel that discovered the despatch of Captain
M'Clure at Winter Harbour, and was thus led to the " Investigator's" position,
a brief account of the voyage and discoveries of which \ essel I will now relate.

10 'l^heir Lordships will remember that it was on the 6th of August, 185U, that
the '• Investigator" was lost seen running to the north-eastward with studding
sails set. They rounded Point Barrow with much difiieulty.

At the River Colville, in 150" W., they were detained some days, and then
thick ^veather, fogs, and contrary winds set in — the latter proving rather an
advantage, as it kept the ice open ; and the necessity of working to windward
Ijctwcen the I'olar pack and the gradually sloping shore gave tlicm the mrans of
aviiidiiig dangers. On the 26th of August they reached the mouth of the
Mackenzie, the pack at this part Iwing upwards of ninety miles distant. On
the 30th, they were off Cape Bathurst.

.'Vii

i:/

\ < '^i-:

When at Cape Parry, open water to the northward induced Captain M'Clure
to push for Banks' Land ; and when about sixty miles from this Cape they fell
in with an unknown coast, whicli was named Baring Island. Passing up a strait
between this island and a coast that was called Prince Albert Land, they reached
the latitude of 73°. where ice impeded their further progress. The season
suddenly changing, the ship was l)eset and forced to winter in the pack : drifting
to the southward, they were ultimately frozen up in latitude 72° 40' N., longi-
tude 117° 30' W.

The travelling parties in the spring found no traces of tlie missing expedition,
but discovered and laid down much of the adjacent coasts.

On the 14th July IS.'jI, the ice broke up, and freeing the ship, an endeavour
was made to push to the northward towards Melville Island, but an impenetrable
pack in latitude 73° 'Mi' N., longitude 115° W. precluded their completing what
their autumn travelling parties had proved to be the North West Passage. An
attempt was now made to round the southern shore of Baring Island and
proceed up the west side ; and with great peril to the vessel they succeeded in
reaching as far as latitude 74° 6', and longitude 117° 12', where they were frozen
in on the 24th September 1851, and have never since been able to move the ship.
Their record was deposited at Winter Harbour the yoixr folloAving Commander
M'Clintock's visit, whilst employed on Captain Austin's expedition.

41. There are two remarkable discoveries mentioned in Captain M'Clure's
journal, viz., some smoking hillocks and a petrified forest. He also states
that during his intercourse with the natives he only once met with any
hostile demonstrations. This occurred at Point Warren, near the Mac-
kenzie, where, on attempting to land, two natives with threatening gestures
waved them oflf", it was not without nuich difficulty that they were pacified, and
then they related that all their tribe, but the chief and his sick son, had Hcd
on seeing the ship, alleging as a reason, that they feared they ship had come to
revenge the death of a white man they had murdered some time ago. They
(through the interpreter) related that some white men had come there in a boat,
and that they built themselves a house and lived tlicre: at last the natives
murderf^tl one, and the others escaped they know not wiierc, but the nundered
man was buried in a spot they pointed out. A thick fog coming on prevented
Captain M'Clure from examining this locality, which is nuich to be regretted,
as here is the probable position, a boat party endeavouring to return by the
Mackenzie would have encamped.

42. I have now only to state further for their I^ordships, information on this
head, that Commander M'Clure had made arrangements for deserting the ship,
to have been carried out a few days later than the opportune arrival of the
officer from the " Resolute," and that Captain Kellett sent his surgeon to report
upon the health of the crew. He also desired that should there not be amongst
them twenty men who would volunteer to remain another winter, (.Japtain
M'Clure was to desert his vessel. The " Intrepid " was expected at Beechey
Island with the crew ; and Sir Edward Belcher had ordered the " North Star "
to be prepared on her arrival to proceed to England, sailing on the 1st of Sep-
tember, and to leave the " Intrepid " at Beechey Island in her stead.

43. I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning the Arctic
searching squadrons, to acquaint their Lordships of the dangerous position in
which the " North Star" passed the winter. Shortly after I left Beechey Island
last year in my yacht the " Isabel," a violent gale whicii I encountered in the
Straits, drove the " North Star " on shore, where she remained during the whole
winter, and was only got ofi" this spring W'th much difficulty,

44. Herewith I enclose a chart showing the tracks of the vessels of ir.y
squadron on their outward voyage, and this vessel homeward also, the several
alterations and additions made in the coast line of Greenland. This is marked
(! 5, also a chart on Mercator's plan marked C 6, showing the North ^Vest
Passage, with all the latest discoveries, and the coasts explored by each expe-
dition up to this date, in search for the missing squadron.

From C 1 to C 6 are the siu'veys and plans made during the voyage, and
alluded to in this dispatch. From L 1 to L 7 are the copies of letters therein
spoken of, and enclosures M ',*, to M 10 are copies of the memorandums and
orders issued by me as senior officer at Beechey Island.

The drawings and sketches from D 1 to D 24 are made exhibiting several

positions of the ships during the

and headlands, coastline, and views

<ji%

taken at different times, also a drawing of the " Investigator " wintering in the
pack, made from a sketch, and the description by Lieutenant Cresswell.

In natural history, we are able to add a large collection of minerals to our
museums, nearly 1,000 specimens of ores ana earthy substances have been
obtained at different parts of the coasts of G reenland. Specimens also of the
flower, leaf, and root plants of all the kinds we have met with, are carefully
preserved -, and such crustacc us and other creatures from the animal kingdom
as our limited means have allowed us to collect are prepared for the naturalists.

A careful meteorological journal ha» been kept, a tide register at Holstein-
borg, and a great many observations made on the direction, dip, and force of the
maanet. These have been carried on by Mr. Stanton and the late lamented M.
BeUot, whose industry in this branch of science is well proved by the mass of
valuable matter he has left oehind.

I have only now to beg their Lordships will accept my assurance of the
perfect satisfaction I have received in the conduct of every officer and man in
the expedition during a period of incessant labour, continual hardsh'p, and
frequently imminent peril ; each has done his duty with a zeal and alacrity that
I find it hard to individualize.

On all occasions I have received the most prompt co-operation from my first
lieutenant Mr. Elliott, who, as an old officer, I would beg to recommend to
their Lordships' notice.

Amongst our numbers six only of the officers and men had been amongst the
ice before, yet I invariably found them as active in their employment whilst
engaged with that treacherous element, as the most experienced whalers, and
whatever the service, thf danger, or the emergency, I had only to order, and it
was promptly executed; without such hearty co-operation on the part of
both officers and men, I must say I could scarcely have completed all that has
been done ; and I have only further to state for their Lordships' information,
that to the officers, this expedition has been a very serious expense. Obliged
to equip themselves and store their mess for an Arctic winter, they have returned
to England after an absence of little more than four months from the time they
sailed from Cork, and thus their pay cannot cover the expenses of such a costly
outfit. It is more particularly heavy to the juniors, whose expenses were the
same, while their pay is so considerably less.

My Remark Book contains much information I have gathered during the
voyage upon many subjects, and this accompanies ray charts and drawings.

1 beg you will assure their Lordships of my anxiety to learn of their approval
of my proceedings, more especially, as I found it necessnry upon so many
occasions to take upon myself a responsibility which nothing but the circum-
stances in which I was placed could otherwise have justified ; I especially refer
to the dispatch of the " Diligence' to England, and the delicate task of dis-
regarding the orders of my senior officer.

I omitted to mention that on our return south through Baffin Bay, we tried
for soundings at a spot marked in tin track chart with 2,8/0 fathoms, without
getting bottom. The line was up^vards of three hours and a half in running
out, and the lead employed more than half a hundredweight.

I have also to state, in conclusion, that I ordered Mr. M'( oimick to join my
ship for a passage to England. Learning that he had finished the work he was
appointed to the " North Star " to perform, and his desiring to leave the ship
I also ordered, as per memorandums 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, and 10, certain exchanges
amongst officers and men belonging to this ship and the " North Stnr."

The Pay Books of this ship are made up, and are enclosed with the
despatches. f have, &c.,

E. A. Inglefield, Commander.

No. 2.
To Captain Inglefield.
Sir, Erebus and Terror Bay, 23d August 1853.

^N compliance with your request I beg to state that, in consequence of the
imm.onse quantity of ice now in Barrow Straits, I deem it prudent not to prolong
our stay, as by so doing we incur great risk in being caught for the winter;
for should the wind veer to the east or up Barrow Strait, the latter would be
so blocked up as to prevent a passage. j a,m &c.

Donald Manson, Ice Master.

..* -'" ^%mp^m

a a

I '■ -J si

,,ni.'hfjqMi)f;ii(iT:ill'i mt^hiii^'-i '.-jmr No. 3. Li/ Jv^K(Sf(itino.>ani{;r rioi''

Captain In'olbfIeu) to Lieutenant Elliott.

By Edwabd a. Inolefield E8Q.,*Commander of the Relief Arctic Expe-
^', dition, and Senior Officer at Beechey Island.

Dbemino it necessary for the perfect completion of the service on which this
expedition is employed, that a boat should proceed up Wellington Channel, to
endeavour to communicate with Captain Pullen, and obtain the despatches of Sir
Edward Belcher, I have determined upon proceeding myself. I intend leaving
this ship on the 10th instant, and have now to direct, that should casualty, or
any unforeseen circumstance prevent my returning to Beechey Island before the
end of the present month, that you proceed with the Transport to Lievely ;
and from thence, having supplied Her Majesty's Steam Vessel with the coal, on
board that vessel, you lose no time in proceeding to England in the fiill execution
of the orders under which I am acting.

I have so constantly imparted to you my views and intentions, as to our
general proceedings, that I deem it needless to enter into the minor details, in
which you will at once perceive it will become your duty to act, should I not
return within a reasonable time to Beechey Island, and though I consider it most
improbable this should occur, I am desirous that I should rather be left behind,
than that the full spirit of the instructions of my Lords Commissioners should
not be fully and certainly complied with.

A duplicate copy of these and other orders I enclose for your general
guidance, and I have only to add my belief that you will use a proper discrimi-
nation between leaving me unnecessarily behind, or lingering dangerously long
in these treacherous climes.

Accompanying these you will receive the orders I have drawn up for the
guidance of Commander Francis M'Clintock on his arrival.

Given under my hand, &c., oft" Cape Riley,
the 9th day of August, 1853.

E. A. Inqlefielo.

■ • " ■ No.4. ^' ■■^: ■ '■■■ ■ •' ■ ' ■ ■^■'r'

Commander Pgllen to Captain Inglefielo.

H. M. S. " North Star,"
Sir, Beechey Island, 20th August 1853.

It is my melancholy duty to inform you that two of my men who left this
ship with Lieutenant Bellot, have just returned with the sad intelligence of, I
fear, his being drowned. The particulars of an examination of the two men I
have entrusted to Lieutenant Cresswell, who was present at the time; it is in a
rough shape, but being anxious that you should be made acquainted with the
sad event, I deemed i,t necessary to despatch him immediately.

The despatches arc safe, the men having brought them back. I have there-
fore to request your opinion as to whether, from the state of the ice in the
channel which Lieutenant Cresswell will inform you of, it is advisable to des-
patch another party or not immediately, to endeavour to communicate with
Sir Edward Belcher. . .

■ ' 1 have, &c.,

W. J. S. Pullen, Commander.'

No. 5.
Commander Inolefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty,
Reporting the death of Lieutenant Bellot, of the Frencli Imperial Navy.
Sir, Her Majesty's Steam Sloop " Phoenix."

It is my very painful duty to acquaint you, for the information of my Lords
Connuissioncrs of the Admiralty, of the death of M. Bellot, Lieutenant of the
Frencii Marine, who was appointed to this ship on the 15th April last, by their
Lordships, as supernumerary.

Tliis gallant officer met with his death by drowning, whilst away on a
travelling party up Wellingtou Chituel, whither ne had volunteered to go to seek
for me. Captain Pullen had, however, availed himself of his experience in
Arctic travelling to send forward their Lordships' despatches to Sir Edward
Belcher.

C 2

t'I

^80

The men who accompanied M. Bellot returned eight days after their departure,
stating that on the evening of Wednesday, the 17th August, the party were
landing from the floe by means of the india-rubber boat, when the ice suddenly
broke up, leaving M. Bellot and two men still afloat. The former, after making
arrangements (by building a barricade with snow) to protect the men from the
gale, which had set it, went to the top of a hummock, close to a crack five
fathoms wide, and not returning shortly to the shelter, the men went out to seek
for him, and could find nothing but the short stick he carried in his hand
floating on the water ; they have no doubt he was drowned as they remained on
the floe thirty hourn after, and never saw a trace of him.

By a miracle they succeeded in landing after this period at a spot a short
distance from where the two other mon had got on shore.

The independent evidence of the four men plainly proves the correctness of
their statement, and there cannot be a doubt that poor M. Bellot was blown
off' the hummock into the crack by a violent gust of wind, when he indubit-
ably perished by drowning, as unable to swim, he was much hampered with
stiff wet clothes, and a southwester tied under his chin.

The loss of this gallant officer has been deeply felt by all on board, for his
amiable qualities, and bold adventurous disposition hud rendered him Ireloved
by all who knew him.

I am, &c.,

E. A. iNCiLKFiELD, Commaudcr.

No. 6.
Secretary of the Admiralty to H. U. Addington, Esq.

Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1853.

I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to send you
herewith for the information of the Earl of Clarendon, a copy of a letter from
Commander Pullen, of Her Majesty's ship " North Star," dated Beechey Island,
20th August, 1853, and an ext' ict of a letter from Commander Inglefield, of
Her Majesty's steam vessel " PI enix," dated 4th instant ; and my Lords cannot
sufficientlv express the regret wiich they have to convey the intelligence of the
melancholy death of Lieutenant HcUot of the French navy to Lord Clarendon.
The generous devotedness of Lit : ' ' nant Bellot to the humane and honourable

igh talents, the many admirable qualifi-
is a service, and his engaging character
arage and energy in carrying through

cause in which he was engaged, hi
cations possessed by him for so arc!
and manners, added to his manl\
whatever enterprise he was engaged
ration of their Lordships, and the
with whom he was embarked.

had already secured to him the admi-
ctionate esteem of his comrades and all

1 have, &c.,

W. A. B. Hamilton.

No. 7.
Secretary c»i the Admiralty to Commander Inglefield.

Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1 853.

Having laid l)efore my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your letter of
the 4th inst., received this day, I am commanded to convey to you the expres-
sion of their Lordships' great satisfaction at your proceedings.

My Lords higlily approve of the firmness, energy, and great good judgment
with which you have carried out their instructions, and of all the steps }ou have
taken in the execution of their orders ; aiu'. their Lordships desire that you will
convey to the officers, seamen, and ui;uiiies employed under your command,
including the master, second master, and crew of the " Breadalbanc," tlie like
expression of their Lordships' high approxal of the manner in which you speak
of their having done their duty.

I am further commanded not to conclude this despatch without signifying
the deep regret with which my Lords have heard of the untimely death of an
officer so much esteemed by them as Licuteiinnt neilot of t'ne French navy.

I 'im, iVc,

\y. A. n. Hamilton.

'" TTniTiiimi

■•,v.' .', No. 8.

Secretary of the Admiralty to Commander Inglefield.

Sir, Admiralty, 7th October 1853

My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty having been pleased to sign a
commission promoting you to the rank of Captain in Her Majesty's Navy; I
have their Lordships commands to acquaint you therewith, and that your
commission is with the Chief Clerk of this OflBce.

I urn, &c.,

R. OSBOBNE.

Captain Inolefield to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

Sir, Admiralty in Waiting, 8th October 1853.

I HAVE the honour to acknowledge the very handsome letter their Lordships
have been pleased to forward to me, in reply to my statements of the proceed-
ings of the expedition with which I was entrusted, and in doing so, I feel that it
is as much my duty as my pleasure to be able to convey to their Lordships my
testimony as to the ample and very efficient assistance I have at all times
received from my second in command. Lieutenant W. Elliott, whose services
upon Captain Austin's expedition arc too well known to require comment from
me. To the qualities of an able officer he has exhibited those of an experienced
seaman, most especially during tlie time of his being in command of the "Dili-
gence" tender, and during the period when my necessary absence I'rom the ship,
on the journey up Wellington Channel, leit him in a responsible situation.

I cannot close this letter, in which I beg especially to call Lieutenant Elliott's
claims before their Lordships' notice, without bearing my unqualified testimony
to the zeal and ability displayed by every officer in the expedition; and in doing
so, I must individualise the master, Mr. Stanton, whose surveys, observations,
and angle-books bear the fullest testimony not only to his abilities as a master,
but his qualities as a surveyor. He, moreover, has shown that continued exer-
tion in the prosecution of the services on which we were employed, which has
(in the absence of a second lieutenant in this expedition) fallen especially heavy
on him, and merits my perfect approbation.

I am, &c.

E. A. Inglefiklu.

IV.

Lieutenant Cresswell's l^etter, 7tli October 1853, announcing his
Arrival with Despatches from Captain M'Clure, communicating
the Proceedings of Her Majesty's Ship " Investigator," and
Discovery of the North- VV^est Passage.

No. 1.

Lieutenant Cuesswkli. to the Secretary of the Admiralty.
Sir,

I havk the honour to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, of my arrival in L(mdon this morning with Captain
Inglefield of Her Majesty's ship " Phtiniix," having been charged with Com-
mander M'Clure's despatches, by Captain Kcllett of Her Majesty's ship
" Resolute," which are herewith transmitted, together with a copy of the orders
I received from Commander M'Clure and Captain Kellett.

I have the greatest satisfaction in reporting, that during the prolonged service
on which we were employed in search of the crews of the missing ships, we liavc
only lost three men in the spring of the present year.

1 left the " Investigator" on the loth of April last, in the Harbour of Mercy,
latitude 74" 6' North, longitude 117" 45' West, and crossiug the ice vvith
sledges, reached the " Resofuto" at Melville Island, on the '.?d of Mav.

C 3

til

Assisted by a party from the •^Resolute," I reached the "North Star,"
Beechy Island* on the 32d June, witit Lieutenant Wyiiniatt, whom it gives
me great pleasure to speak of in the highest terms.

■ ■ ' - I have, &c., •

(%'■ ) i.;R.i--J., ivia,i <c:."ivii(i ' S. G. Ckessweu, -i.-.s- !.'■'

i i\-i .'A ■■: '.ft^iifsU I iH Lieutenant of Her Majesty's ship " Investigator."

. ' :• 'i^'' i No. 2.

Commander M'Clure to Lieutenant Cresswell.

By Robert M'Clure, Esq., Commander of Her Majesty's Discovery
Ship " Investigator," and Senior Officer present.

CoNSiDBRiNe it of the utmost importance that the crew should be divided, as
the only means of carrying the views which I entertain into effect, viz., the pro-
bability of being thereby able to extricate and carry home the ship, or, failing
in the accomplishment of such design, to be enabled to me t the contingency of
another winter in any part of these seas, without the risk of suffering from
starvation, which must mevitably follow with the whole complement on board,
I therefore deem no further preamble requisite, but direct your attention to
the following: —

Having most opportunely received intelligence conveyed under very severe
and trying circuinstaiiices by Lieutenant Pirn, from (Captain Kellett, C.B., of
Her Majesty's Discovery Sliip " Resolute," now most providentially wintering
at Dealy Island, that has allayed the great apprehension which I otherwise
could not have divested myself of feeling for the safety of those engaged in the
execution of a service so hazardous. You will, consequently, upon the 1 5th of
the present month, or as soon after us the weather will admit, proceed to the
Island mentioned in the preceding paragraph, taking imder your command such
officers and men as are selected for detachment.

Seve-r.l ,^111 require great care and attention from tiio debility occasioned by
the epidemic that has, throughout the lafc very severe winter, afflicted them ;
consequently you will not allow the laudable anxiety which might urge you to
accomplish the journey by u' due exertion, to overcome a proper consideration
for their entieebled state, so as to tax their strength too severely.

You will be provisioned for twenty-four days, which will admit of your taking
easy stages for Cape Providence and Point Hearnc, where you can complete
your resources if necessary, and also remain to refresh your crew, from thence
to the " Resolute" is oidy thirty miles.

On arriving at Dealy Islar' and reporting yourself to Captain Kellett, C.B.,
you will then of course be under his orders which you will follow for your
luturc guidance.

Given imder my hand, on board Her Majesty's Discovery Ship
' ' " Investigator," Bav of Mercy, Baring s Island, 7th day of

.\pril 1853,

_ RoBKHT M'Ci.iHE, (Commander.

Captain Henr> Kellrtt, C.B., to Lieutenant Cresswell.

It being of importance that an officer of Her Majesty's ship " Investigator,"
should reach England by the earliest opportunity, and it being ])ossible that
these ships may not break out this season,

You will take charge of Commander M'Clure's despatches, delivering them
to the commanding officer of the " North Star," who will cause ropies to be
made of them for Sir Edward Belcher's information, and return you the
original, sealed, for conveyance to England.

You will accompany Mr. Roche, mate, who has charge of the party, with
instructions to victual you and Mr. Wynniatt, whose health is such as to require
an innnediate return to England.

Given under my hand, on board Her Majesty's ship " Resolute," at
Dealy Island, 7th May, 1853.

Henrv Kellett, Captain.

aa.

Proceedings of* Captain M'Clure, of Her Majesty's Discovery Ship
"Investigator,' in soarcli of the Expedition under Sir John
,, Franklin, from Aufjiist IR.W to April 1853, and reporting
!.' the Discovery of the North- West Passage.

Xt !

.)-'Ji\' IIJ.

■ '■ No. 1. ....

Comftiandcr Robebt M'Clurr to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

H. M. D. S. " Investigator," Bay of Mercy, Baring's Island,
Sir, lOth April 1853.

I HAVE the honour to forward to you for the information of the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty the narrative of the proceedings of Her
Majesty's Ship under my cuuuuand from the period of parting company with
Captain Kellett, of the " lieruld," off Cape Lisbume, m August 18.50 to the
present date, and trust that the course which I have adopted in endeavouring to
carry out my instructi'ns us regards the search of the Expedition under Sir
John Franklin into efllect, will meet with the approval of their Lordships ; like-
wise, that the division of my crew, in the hopes of being able to save the ship,
and failing that, to meet the contingency of another winter, which, by any
other means would have been impossible, us, should wc not get as far as Port
Leopcild this season, next April we must of necessity quit the ship, taking away
the last ounce of provisions, from which their Lordships may observe that
perseverance Avill have been carried to the utmost extent, famine alone causing
our desertion of the vessel.

... I have, &c.,

lioBKRT M'Clure, Commander.

■■ . r s No. 2. ■ '■ ■■

To the Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Good Hope,

North America, (or any of the Company's OflScers).

Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator,"
Sir, ' 24th August 1850.

I have to request that you will cause the accompanying despatch for the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to he forwarded with the least possible
delay, so that if it is practicable, it may arrive this year ; you are aware of the
great interest that is attached to this expedition, and consequently all informa
tion regarding its progress will be considered of the utmost importance.

I feel convinced it is unnecessary to urge you to exertion in the performance
of this duty ; the Honourable Company with which you are connected having
with great liberality, zeal, and beneficence, expressed their desire to render
every assistance in forwarding the views not only of Her Majesty's Government,
but that of the nation at large, in facilitating the search for the missing expedi-
tion under Sir John Franklin. It is impossible for me to suggest any method
by whicii this despatch may be carried, whether by Indians specially engaged
for the purpose, or throtigh your nsiml communication, only permit me to beg
that the most expeditious method may be pursued, and let the expenses attend-
ing its transmission be placed to the account of the " Arctic Searching
Expedition."

I have, &c.,
Robert M'Clure, Conmiander.

No. 3.

To the Chief Trader of the Russian Fur Company, North America.

Her Britannic Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator,"
nth August 1850, off Jones' Island.
Sir,
The discovery ships under Sir John Franklin sailed from England in 1845,
and were last seen in Ba£5n's Bay in July in that year, steering for Lancaster
Sound.

\U:

The uid of the officers of the UuMsiuii Fur Company is eunicstly solicited in
the humane endeavour to rescue such of the missing crews as may succeed in
reaching the shore of this Continent.

And it is conceived that this mny be effectually rendered by oflTering to the
Esquimaux and Tchutski the promise of a liberal reward of kettles, saws,
knives, beads, ond such other articles of commerce as they covet, for any
effectual relief afforded to any Avhite men that may l)e cast on their coasts, and
for conducting them in safety to a neighbouring I'ur post. The English
Admiralty will defray the expense of such rewards, on application.

I am, &c.,
lloHT. M'Clurk, Conmiandor.

No. 4.

Commander M'Cuirk to the Skchktahv ok tmi: Admihai.tv, London.

Her Britannic Majestv's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off Jones Island, to the
Eastward of Keren's Point, Lat. 70° Mi' N., Long. l.'iO" 16' W.
Sir, nth August 1850.

I 8KND this by an Esquimaux boat, with the hope of its conveying the intelli-
gence of our progress to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty through the
Russian Fur Company.

We parted company with the " Herald," off Cape Lisburnc, upon the Illst
ultiitiu; made the ice in latitude "2° 1' N., longitude 166' 12' W., found the
pack exceedingly close and heavy extending K.N.E. to W.N.W., worked along
Its margin until the .'jth instant, and then shaped u course tor Wainright's Inlet ;
in running, e.\, -hanged numbers with the " Plover;" at 11. HO a.m. made a low
l)each, distant about two miles; weather very thick running entirely by the lead
from 14 to J'-i tiithoms, in which latter water, rounded Point Barrow at about
11. '10 I'.M. without, however, sieing it.

Shaped a course for Bankes's Land through loose sailing ice ; next morning,
August 6th, the weather cleared, found that we had been running towards the

Eack which was impenetrable, extending from S.E. to S.W., (bv the north) ;
auled to the wind and connnenced working to tlie southward; upon the after-
noon of the 7th, got clear of the ice into Smith's Bay. At 2 a.m. of the 8th,
erected a cairn, and left a notice of oiu- passing upon Point Drew; several
natives came on board, who had arrived but three days previous, had seen no
other \essel ; stated the water would be open along the siiore during the sum-
mer, from about three to five miles in width. In running along the coast to the
eastward, several Baidars came off, said thev had not seen any white men, except
some in boats last summer going east, { which I suppose to be Lieutenant Pullen) ;
sent a letter by them containing infoniiation for their Lordships.

Landed a notice upon Point Pitt, off which tlie ship grounded in stays, but
was shortly hove afloat without any damage. Ivxperienced much difficulty in
rounding Cape Halket from ice being set close to sliore, allowing only the space
of from ',\l to 4?, fathoms to work through. August 1 Ith, inane Jones's Island
eastward of Harrison's Bay; erected a cairn, and loft a notice; several natives
came off"; no intelligence of any description.

I am. Sir, ixc,
UouKHT M'CixHK, Commander.

Commander M'Clcri: to the Skcuktauv ok riii: Admihai.tv, London.

Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off
Point Warren, Polar Sea,
Latitude 69" 43' North, Longitude 1.31° .')7' West.
Sir. •i4tli Aiimist IH.'iO.

I HAVK the honour to report to you, for the information of the Ijords Com-
missioners of the Admiralty, that we anived off the Mackenzie upon the 21st

^'f^-

in^tant, the letters that I forwarded by Her Miyestv's ship " Hcnld," Ax<in
whom I parted company upon the 30th ultimo off Cape Lisbume, will have
put you in possession of my proceedings up to that date.

Ailer parting with the " Herald," I stood to the N.N.W., with a fresh breeze
from the N.E., with the intention of making the ice, which was accomplished
upon the morning of the 2d August, in latitude 72° 1' North, longitude 166° 12'
West, and at 11 a.m. stood into the loose ice for the purpose of exami.>'
the pack, the wind, however, failing before we got far in, I was induced to i
out to avoid being bcHet, having ascertained that the pack was very close and
heavy extending from E.N.E. to W.N.W., and seemg no hope of getting
through, worked along its edge, in soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms (mud), the
hundreds of walruses that were lying upon the ice, thickly huddled together
like sheep in a fold, was most astonishing, we continued working along the ice,
occasionally getting <lrifted in until the 5th, when the weather, which nad been
previoualy thick and misty cleared a little, and no ice being in sight, I shaped a
course for Wainwright'a Inlet, with the intention of getting between the pack
and shore ; in running, exchanged numbers with Her Majesty's ship " Plover,"
and at 1 1 .30 a.m. observed a low l)each, apparently shingle, distant about two
miles, the weather again having become thick, we went entirely by our
soundings, which varied from 14 to 73 fathoms, in which latter we rounded
Point Barrow at 11.30 p.m., without, however, observing the land, and steered
to the eastward direct for Banks's Land, finding that the ice was sufficiently
loose and practicable for sailing through ; these hopes were soon, however,
dissipated, for upon, the forenoon of the 6th it was suddenly cleared, when I
found that we had been running directly into the pack, which was very heavy
and impenetrable, extending from .S.E. to S.W. (by the North), in latitude
71° :^5' North, and longitude 155° 12' West, and the sea through which we had
come looking nearly as white as the ice ahead, except that lanes of water were
observable, we instantly hauled to the wind, and commenced working out ;
during the night the breeze freshened considerably, bringing showers of rain
with thick weather, while being compelled to carry a press of canvas through
very heavy and close sailing ice rendered the navigation extremely critical, the
vessel occasionally struck with some violence, this continued until the afternoon
of the 7th, when clear water was reported from the crow's nest ; the wind
almost immediately failing, the boats were all manned and towing commenced
amidst songs and cheers, which continued with unabated goal humour for six
hours, when their laborious work was brought to a successful termination ;
being in perfectly clear water in Smith's Bay, a light air springing up, we
worked to the eastward, at 2 a.m. of the 8th, being off Point Drew, sent
Mr. Court C second master) on shore to erect a cairn and bury a notice of our
having passed ; upon landing they were met by three natives, who at first were
very timid, but upon exchanging signs of friendship, which consisted of raising
the arms three times over the head, they approached the boat, and after the
pleasant salutation of rubbing noses, became very communicative, when, by the
assistance of our invaluable interpreter Mr. Miertsching, (the selection of this
gentleman for this important office does infinite credit to the discernment of
those who sent him,) we found the tribe consisted of ten tents (this being the
only approach to their numbers he could obtain), had arrived only three days
previous, and that they hold communication with a party inland, who trade
with the Russian Fur Company : the evening liefore, they had observed us, but
could not imagine what large trees they were, moving about (our masts),
and that all the tribe had assembled on the beach to look ot them, when they
agreed it was something very extraordinary, and left the three men who met the
boat to watch ; they also gave the pleasing intelligence that we should find open
water along the coast, from about three to five miles distance during the summer ;
that the heavy ice \ery seldom came in, or never left the land further than at
present ; that they did not know if there were any islands further north, as they
found it impossible to go in their kyacks, when in pursuit of seals, further than
one day's journey to the main ice ; and then the lanes of water allowed of their
proceeding three quarters of a day further, which brought them to very large
and high ice, Avith not spa ;e enough in any part of it to allow their kyacks to
enter: the probable distance Mr. Miertching therefore estimates from his
knowledge of the Es(]uimaux' habits to be about forty miles off shore, and from
what I ha\c seen of the pack, am inclined to think this is perfectly correct, for a
more unbroken mass I never witnessed. They also mentioned seeing the boats

;ii

•|-'— T*

wit|itwbit«,4)Mn upiiig;,«Mtirsrd ]•«« yetr, (whwh 1 nuppow waf JUieutentnt
FulLent) but mxT not <«en an^ other, white penons, or anything lilt? tbia
vcMMcl before ; they had thcreioro , do luuutt of oufficient uraudotir to give
the great "Oiaia^," ao thoy called her the "Fant moving fuland." Several
of fbeni came oif to the vetiiiel, but had little to barter, at all their hunter.)
were away ; but iiiunediately we had been obiiervcd they were sent for, and
wovild soon arrivQ ; then «aid they, you will bt^ gone, and how disappointed they
will be ! They appear n ,8inijple, kind people; very poor, very filthy, and to
us looked exceedingly wretched. The time of our return was repeatedly
enquired ; for by then th^y would have a quantity of Hkins ; they were anxious
for us to wait a little, that they might tend off a Hupply of reindeer ; but the
boat returning and the wind fair, I made them u few preHcntti, and gave them a
letter to be forwarded to the Russiaa Fur Company, and made sail to the east-
ward, the wind being light, as we ran close along shore in from four to six
fathoms. We had a great many visitors, many oi tliem had been their whole
lives between the Coppermine and Paint Barrow ; these could give no infor-
mation of the minsing expedition. I am certain, that had any of them reached
these shores we must have he^urd of it. The coast is inhabited throughout, and
the natives arc, to all appearance, a kind and merry race ; nnd, when wo gave
the presents, through the medium of the interpreter, we told them that we were
lookmg for uur lost brothers, and if they saw any white men 'n distress they
were to be very kind, to which they assented by saying they would, and give
them plenty of " deers fleshv" While running along the land which is
exceedingly low, observed upon Point Pitt two conical mounds. Thinking they
' might have some communication buried beneath, rait in to examine them. VVhile
in stays the vessel took the ground, but was hove oif almost immediately with-
out any dami^^ the bottom being soil clay. The boat sent to examine the
mounds reported them old Esquimaux c4ch6es, where they deposit their venison ;
they left a bottle containing a notice of our passing. Upon rounding Cape
Halkctt upon the morning ot the 9th, found the ice was set close to the shore,
whifch rendered it a passage of much anxiety, great labour, and imminent
risk, as the wind was strong from £,S.£., .vith thick fog, and the ice
closing around us fast, so that we had barely space to work in, tacking
frequently in five, and never beyond ten minutes, standing upon one tack into
'.\^ fathoms, and upon the other to 4]^, and 6 fathoms. This operation v/as
continued the greater part of the middle and all the morning watcii. At 9 a.m.
the weather cleared a little, and open water was observed. lu .juiith's Bay
our soundings gradually increased, the reaches l)ecame longer as wc rounded
the Cape, and all apprehension of being forced on shore was over. —
August 10th. In crossing Harrison's Bay, found the influence of the Colville
to extend 12 or 14 miles, the surface of the water being of a dirty mud colour
and scarcely salt : the feather thick and foggy prevented any land being seen,
the soundings were very regular on one tack, the ice allowed of our standing off
to 8 fathoms, and on the other the land to Sh fathoms black mud. — August 1 1th.
In the morning the weather cleared a little and discovered to us Jones' Island ;
an erect piece of wood on the shore attracted the attention of the officer of the
watch. A boat was sent to examine it, when it appeared to be a piece of drift-
wood which had been squeezed up by the ice : the shore was strewed with it,
and one spar was as large as our mainmast and 4.5 feet in length. We erected
a cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon about thirty natives came off in two
baidars, froni which we obtained some fish and ducks, in exchange for a little
tobacco. They had been about two months on the coast and trade with the
RuKsian Fur Company. Their surprise, of course, was very great, particularly
at tho size of our handkerchiefs (the sails); the whale boats attracted their
attention, and they asked if trees grew in our country sufficiently large to make
them, 'hie head nuui possessed a gun with " Barnet 1840" upon the lock;
thi.s he obtained from the Russians. As a fair specimen of the ()bscr\ ution of
these people and their aptitude for trade, the following may be taken, Seeing
that we cut the tobacco into pieces to give in exchange for their fish (salmon
trout), they began to do the same with the fish ; this, howe\er, we would not
admit, so they were obliged to come to our terms. During tho afternoon, while
standing along u low fiat island, observed a (lag (u .pair of seal skin iiiOApressi-
bles) upon a u)fty pole and a quantity of natives around it ; we stood for them,
but when the boata, were puUiitg in they appeared to regret their temerity, for
down cftpie the *^,,9)an and away they ran. .Shortly gaining courage they

■! I

returned, and as we approached^ arranged themaelyea io' luM^- |ij n Um
and coninienced extciidiDg their armi above the hud {i]mct^ > hit
which being answered irom the boats, perfectly assured them pt' our ap- ,■,■■
intentionti. Upon landing they evinced a most manly confldeooe, rubbing '^nm,
and embracing moHt vigoruu8ly. ThcHc were very cleanly, so that the uitettttioB
wa8 not tto unplcuHant an it otherwise might have l)cen. Throiugh tbr interpreter,
Mr. MicrtNching, we learned that these people hud never before seen aKuropeon,
or had they the smallest article of European manufacture about them, (Lieu-
tenant PuUen's boats they observed last year, but they were some distance off,
and consequently had no communication). They uve during the smnmer
months upon these desolate islands, and in the wmter retire a abort distance
on the mainland to their warmer residences. Their women and tents ware
upon another island ; they were a fine active set of young men, average height
about 5ft. 6in. ; these barter their skins, Jkc. with a trilie further west, who in
their turn do the same with others, until they reach the Russian post upon the
Colville. To them I entrusted a despatch for their Lor4ships, which they
promised most faithfully should be forwarded to the Colville. I made them
u few presents, also u boat's ensign, in commemoration of the first inun of war
whose flau has ever floated in these sterile regions. 'Vhe magnificence of
the gift they could not for some time comprehend, and were loth to touch
it, but at length the interpreter mode them understand it was sent them by
a great chief, and in return they were to be very kind to all white men they
met, and show it to them. All this they promised; the chief then seized
it in his arms and ran across the island to his canoe, followed by tho
remainder of his tribe, and no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings to the
women. We find a westerly set, which prevents our making but slight progress,
the wind hanging so much to ihe eastward.

On the morning of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing the
whole encampment of the t^'ibe we met last night, and also some that we had
seen two days previous, from which it appeared they are migratory ; they
brought off a supply of fish and a quantity of venison, but the latter was in
such a high stntt of putrefaction we could not touch it ; we allowed most of
the men to come on board, and although well aware of their knavish propensities
and conse()uently a sliarp lookout was kept upon them, they most adroitly
managed to slip both handles of our winch and a small ice anchor into their
baidar, when the fair sex became the recipients ; it was by the greatest accident
the theft was discovered, by t!ie end of one handle protruding from beneath the
ample proportions of the lady, who when taxed, immediately returned the
articles and informed upon her husband ; for this immorality the whole boat
was exempted from receiving any present. Working to the eastward, observed
a few deer upon one of the low islands, but was prevented sending any boat as
a S. E. current was setting us in to shoal water very fast, so that all the boats
were required to tow until 8 p.m., when a light air ran us to the westward into
six fathoms. The loose ice was in rapid motion, and the larger floe pieces as
they passed appeared to create a current which frequently turned the vessel
completely round against helm and sails, the power of a two-knot breeze being
insufficient to counteract it. Upon the morning of the 1 3th we were enveloped
in u dense fog, amongst exceedingly heavy and close sailing ice, through which
we attempted to work ; but found that, endeavouring to avoid one piece, we ran
upon another, striking occasionally with great force, which determined me to
secure to a floe imtil it cleared ; in this we fortunately succeeded, getting one
that was groimded in seven fathoms ; it was a heovy piece, but not so much so
as many that were about us. I took its height above the water in seven places,
which gave an average of lift. llin. ; a pack chiefly composed of such would
be too powerful a foe for any ship long to contend against. At 8 a.m. of the
14th, it having cleared a little, slipped from the floe and commenced working to
the eastward amongst masses of ice. At 10.30 a.m., observed a shoal just in
time to avoid it ; it was completely hidden from view off deck, not bemg as
high as the ice, having a quantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great
abundance along the whole coast. At 3.30 p.m. our course was impeded by
another of these low islands, which had the ice resting upon its northern
extreme, while the southern point was flanked by a shoal, which connected it
with the island seen in the morning ; we were thus perfectly hemmed in, the
boats were sent to sound when Mr. Court represented a passage practicable in
three fathoms; in running through we unfortunately hit upon a spot with only

D 2

'2^ t'sthomt, which had neaped ubaenution i we had contttiiuently to lialiten
the vcNiel coniiderably Iwroit" nhc pot off, which howcvor wiis acfoniplinhi'(l
without any damage (the liottotn being sand) by 1 1 I'.m., havin|( bc>i>n on shore
five hours. I regret to add that elevi ii caNiiH of xalt meat, whicii were pinocd
in the flrtt whale boat, were lost by her upHetting, being compelled tn place the
provisiooR in the whalert, the cutten having the Dower anchors in them ; this it
a serious loss, indeed an irreparable calamity. As N(M)n hh wc were off, it was
my wish to return by the way we came in, but found that the ice had net upon
the shoal we had first observed, and cut off our retreat, under which circum-
stances I was obliged to anchor and wait a change of wind. V]wn the Kith the
wind came slightly from the westward, which set the ice in motion off the north
point of the isTancf. At 9 a.m. weighed, and towed to the edge of the ice, which
presented a barrier of about 000 yards in width between us and the open water
wc wished to get into, wc commenced warping at 'i p.m., iind ho heavy was the
ice that it was not until H p.m. that wc could get through : it fcD calm, so
made fast to the ice for the night. Next morning, the 1 7tn, a very thick fog
with light N.E. wind, and at 4 a.m. commenced kcdging to the eastward, but
at 7 A.M. gave it up { the wind freshened, and unable to see for fog ; at two
P.M. it clean d, wc slipped from the ice and plied to the N.E. amidst heavy
streams and lort'e floe pieces, vessel striking violently but tinavoidubly against
them.— 1 8th. 1 j-day from the mast-head observed the first lone of open water
in the pack, eztendmg east and west several miles but very narrow ; in the
evening a fresh breeze from S.W., and almost simultaneously a slight pitching
motion was observed, which is considered an infallible symptom oi open water
being near ; it was so fogg3' that nothing could Ix* seen, but notwithstanding I
shaped a course N.N.W. for Banks's Land, thinking that we had rounded the pack,
having coasted it between 400 and ."iOO miles, wc continued the greatest part of
the night to run without much obstruction, but upon the following morning, the
19th, our progress was checked by finding that we had run into a deep bight,

which comjpelled us to work back again to the S.E 2()th. IV-fore getting cleor

of this pacK into which we had penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed
by a few lanes of open water, we were compelled to run seventy miles south,
which placed us in latitude 69° 50' N. longitude 1.16° .50' W. it is seldom that
observations can be obtained, this being only the sixth set since the .')th of the
month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember to have
met elsewhere. — August 21st. Have succeeded in getting again into cleur water ;
at 1 P.M. made the Pelly Islands off the mouth of the Mackenzie ; the coast
18, however, so excessively shoal that I find it impossible to reach the inuinland
which I was very anxious to accomplish, but at the ilistance of 40 miles from
it was obliged to tack in 3^ fathoms ; we passed the line of its tide most
distinctly marked about ten miles further North, the water being the colour of
the Thames at Woolwich, slightly brackish, and its temperature 39°, the sea four
hours previous being 28°. I'rom what I have obscrvea of the pack I feel con-
vinced that any attempt to reach Banks's Land through it, wouin only terminate
in failure and the consequent loss of valuable time ; but by working lietwccn its
edge and the shore have confidence in making a good advance this season, it is
therefore my intention to pursue the latter method, and in so doing deviate
from my original purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned in my letter
to their Lordships dated the 19th July. — August 22d. Fog during the whole
of the night very dense, but having much open water upon the eastern shore
from the Mackenzie towards Cupe Bathurst, nad no difficulty in working along
it, in soundings from four to eight fathoms, which latter was the extent tha* t!ie
ice permitted us off shore. At noon a slight clear discovered to us a cluster of
islands, which by a very indifferent observation (latitude 69° 34' N., longitude
1.35° 9' W.) point them out as those' of Pelly. — August 23d. A fine clciir day,
the temperature rising to 40° at noon, made the northern extreme of Richard
Ibland from the masthead, and by a good observation established our position,
latitude 69° 54' N., longitude 133° 48' W., the water towards the shore being
perfectly clear of ice, which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richard-
son, that the natives obserA'e no ice for two moons, but these never quit the land
any distance, for were they to extend their excursions ten miles further north
than our position they would find the pacK solid and impenetrable ; this, how-
ever, gives ample Bpacc for navigation, tiie soundings being so exceedingly
regular that during the most foggy weather we can stand in shore \vith the most
perfect confidence to 3^ fathoms. A whale was seen to-day, being only the

thiiti Hiiice rounding Point Barrow, although upon thr dny wv were off that
point Hcvpn were rountod.— AugUHt 24th. C)b«rvTd hutn nnd natives off Point
Wnrrcn. I haHtily close tijin cotnnninication in the hopes of its reaching their
Lordiihipji) thin year, through Fort (Jood Hope, as I imagine theHC people com-
municate with the Mh' kenzic. I have written to the Comnnny'M officer ot the
ttbovc-nicntione<l post t . re(|ucHt h\» excrtionn in sending it forward.

In conclusion, it (.fives nic much pleasure to stiitc that the whole of the crew
are in excellent health and Bpirits ; the season ap[)carH exceedingly favourable,
the temperature being mild nnd the water perfcctfy free from ice luung the shore
as far as we can see. It was my intention to have touched at ('ape Hathurst,
with the chance of l)eing able to forward this despatch, which will now not be
necessary, but shall make the most of the remainder of the season by getting
to the northword in pursuance of their Lordships' directions.

I have, &c.

HoiiKHT M'Ci.i'HR, Commander.

No. 6.
Commander M'Ci.i'kk to the Sechktahv of thu Aumuui.tv, London.

Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," oft'
...,*. Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea, Lat. 70^ '23' N.,

Sir, Long. 127° 57' W,, aoth August \HliO.

Havinu closed my Despatch of the 24th with an intimation that it would be
left near Point Warren with the natives observed from the ship, in accordance
with that intention I proceeded to the shore ; why it was not so left I shall, in
continuation of my narrative, relate. From the contiguity of this tril)e to the
Mackenzio I was naturally led to imagine that their trade was with the Hudson's
Bay Company; great, therefore, was my surprise upon approaching the beach
to find, instead ol being greeted with the usual friendly signs, that two savages,
with gesticulations the most menacing, having bended bows with arrows on
their strings, and one with a large knife which lie brandished most significantly,
waved us oft'. Taking no heed of these hostile demonstrations we pulled in \
they retreated, yelling furiously. Upon our reaching the full of the beach we
made the same signs of friendship which we had used with the Esquimaux
further west, but without any effect until joined by the interpreter, who was iu
full native costume ; this gave them confidence, and upon his explaining our
friendly intentions they approached, but when within about thirty yards,
remarking some muskets which the boat's crew had, their I'ury revived; to
pacify them they were laid upon the ground, where they became the object of
a cautious examination. Still unsatisfied, they beckoned to take them to the
boat ; seeing that nothing short of this would allow of any communication, I
sent them away, when they approached, and permitted us to examine their bows
and arrows.

Mr. Miertsching informed me that we had been observed nt five in the
morning ; the whole tribe had immediately taken to their baidars, with their
most valuable skins, and left the settlement, with the exception of the chief
and his son, who remained to defend their property, as it would have been un-
dignified to have retired when danger was apprehended. A sick son and his
mother, seeing our friendly disposition, soon joined us. Dr. Armstrong ex-
amined the poor lad's foot ; it was in a frightful state, of mortification. The
Chief stated that they were at war with the neighbouring tribes, and had occa-
sional skirmishes with the Indians, that they had no communication with any
person belonging to the Great Iliver (Mackenzie), or had they seen any white
people before ; but when the sea freezes ( the latter end of next month) the
whole trilie proceed west, and trade with the Ksipiimaux which we had met
with near Jones' Island. The interpreter told him that he had found a brother
in the Chief of one of those tribes whose name was Uttauwas. The old Chief
clapped his hands, and said he knew him well, that he was the Great Chief he
traded with, and their reason for going such a distance in preference to the
Mackenzie was, that the white man had given the Indians very bad water, which
killed many and made others foolish (drunk), and that they would not have
any such water. From this it evidently appears that the Company lose
annually many valuable skins, which find their way to the Colviile instead of
the Mackenzie.

Observing an old flat brass button suspended from the ear of the Chief, he

D3 •

-'HI

said it was taken from a white man that had been killed by one of his tribe,
who went away in his kyack when the vessel was seen. The white man
belonged to a party which had landed at Point Warren, and there built a house ;
nobo^ knew how they came, as they had no boat, but that they went inland.
The man killed had strayed from the party, and that he and his son buried
him upon a hill at a little distance. The only answer we could obtain as to
the probable time when this transaction took place was, " that it might be last
year, or when I was a child." To have exammed the grave I was very anxious,
out was prevented by the state of the weather becoming foggy with fresh
breeze, which compelled our immediate return to the ship ; so making them a
few presents we parted on very amicable terms. This intelligence appeared of
so important a nature with respect to the white men on the point, that I deter-
mined to remain until it became sufficiently clear to land and examine the
house, which might possibly contain some indication of the missing expedition.
This detained me eighteen hours, but to have left with a doubt would have
oeen a subject of perpetual regret.

At 2 A.M. on the following morning, the 25th, we reached the point. The
weather being tolerably clear, the interpreter, Dr. ArmstrMig, and myself went
on shore in eager expectation of discovering some clue that would lead to a
knowledge of the parties, but in this we were miserably disappointed ; two huts,
indeed, were there to excite hopes, but upon approachmg them, found the wood-
work to be perfectly rotten and of a very old date, without aiiy description of
mark to yield the slightest information. The general appearance of the coimtry
about the point was low and marshy, covered with grass, moss, and flowers, the
brjeeding place of the eider duck and every species of wild fowl ; we also
remarked the footmarks of the fox and reindeer. So fertile a landscape I could
not anticipate upon the shores of the Polar Sea. The interpreter, from his
knowledge of the customs of the Esquimaux, is of opinion that the story of
the white man is traditionary. Probably some of the early discoverers had
been engaged in some aflray with the ancestors of the present chief, and one of
them had been killed ; the present generation inherit the honour, and so identify
themselves with their forefathers, speaking of the transaction in the first person
as if they themselves were the actors, which is very likely from the vague
definition of the time, " It might be last year or when I was a child ;" so the
history of the white man will still continue a mystery We also heard that last
year two boats .;ame from the westward, and landed at Point Warren, and then
returned. I cannot imagine what boats these could be, unless they were those of
Lieutenant Pullen, who, in thick weather, might have missed the Mackenzie, and
by sights obtained ti, the point discover his error. They had not seen any this
year. — Auguut 26th. N.E. winds and snow, occasionally clearing, so that the land
could be discerned, which presented the same low line, with a few conical hills a
short distance inland. We saw a few old tents, but not a native. Two whales
passed close to the vessel, one very large, although only in six fathoms water.

August 27th. Light northerly winds and thick fog. It was my intention to
have sent a boat along shore that she might have examined it thoroughly, as
the water to the eastward of Cape Brown permits us standing within two miles
of the coast, and to have taken her on board in the evening, but under the cir-
cumstance of thick weather I could not venture to do so, tearful of being
detained by missing her.— August 28th. Light winds from N.E., with a mild
cloudy day. At noon Cape Dalhousie S.W. twelve miles. Several masses of
drift ice, some of the pieces very heavy, which, however, is not any obstruction to
our progress, as the space of open water is ample for sailing. We have found
during the last four days a current varying from eleven to sixteen miles daily
setting to the southward. We have had no opportunity of shooting, the greatest
part of the birds hitl taken tb'^ir southern flight before our arrival ; the few
flocks that we have seen were v-^.y shy and unapproi\chable.

29th August. Very dense fog with light wind fiom N.E., which cleared at
noon sufficiently to obtain a meridian altitude, and found that we had been set
since yesterday south twelve miles, Cape Dalhousie distant S.W. (true) three
miles. The fog enveloped us again while standing off shore, when we ran into
a narrow channel, having about three and a half fathoms, on either side
compelled us to bear u»^ west. This carried u.'i into deen water in about fifteen
minutes. In the course of the afternoon we fell in with very heavy drift ice,
composed of large floe pieces, occasionally becoming entangled in consequence
of the thick fog, although there was much open water amongst it.

30th August Wind from the northward with clear weather. Observing a
mark on the beach upon the island off Maitland Point in Liverpool Bay, sent
Mr. Sainsbury, mate, to examine it, and to leave a notice of our passing. Upon
his return he reported that an Esquimaux encampment had recently broken up,
the traces of their tents and footmarks being quite distinct. We observed froux
the ship several reindeer, which were not seen by the party on shore. In stand-
ing along the coast, observing natives, I ran in to forward this despatch, trusting
it may reach the Hudson's Bay Company this year, which is probable, if they
are not as great a set of savages as we met near Point Warren. I hope to round
Cape Bathurst to-morrow ; this will therefore be the last communication which
it will, in all probability, be in my power to m^e to their Lordships. The
temperature has hitherto been exceedingly mild, thermometer very seldom
being below 32°, and from the present favourable appearence both of the
weather and state of the ice, I have very strong hopes of getting well to the
northward ere the navigation ceases, which will be about the latter end of next
month, according to Esquimaux report. ...,! v. n; - ■<-'. ,. ■ '>/yii

I have, &c. . ,;

^i.i ;i;.i .uu?; ■ ..,^i« •!{{ .) .;4ijo;i": .1 .' RoBERT M'Clure, Commander. ,

No. 7.

Commander M'Cluhe to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London

Her Miyesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," off Cape Bathurst, Polar Sea,
;,:".:.. ,; latitude 70° 28' N., longitude 128° 33' W.

• ' ' Sir, (30th August 1850.)

In accordance with the intention expressed at the conclusion of my last letter,
I proceeded in the first whale boat accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr.
Miertsching, followed by Lieutenant Cresswell and a party of officers in a
cutter, bringing a variety of presents ; we were met. upon landing, by two
females who greeted us very cordially, and through the medium of the inter-
preter, acquamted me that the remainder of the tribe were at Cape Bathurst
catching whales, which was at no great distance, and they would be our guides.
Gladly availing ourselves of this apparently fortunate incident, the boats were
directed to pull along shore, while we, ascending the cliffs, reached a fine level
plain extendmg several miles north and south, rich with verdure and abounding
m moss : preferred walking, hoping to meet some reindeer, for which the pasture
was excellent ; but mile after mile was walked without any appearance of the
fishing party ; airiving, after the expiration of three hours, in a small bay, we were,
however, gratified at being told this was the spot where two boats, the year
before last, had pitched their tents for the night, (^Sir J. Richardson,) and we
had to go a very little further; on reaching the next bay, we found there two
tents, which our guides said belong to them, but the cape or any appearance of the
tribe could not be seen; we declined going any further, as in consequence of the
wind falling light, the vessel was by this time hull down ; we were then kindly
invited to become partakers of their tents, and go on the next morning, which
hospitable offer was not accepted; but bartering several articles in exchange for
salmon, and making them a few presents, we returned on board, when at
10.30 P.M., it becoming dark and foggy, and getting into 3^ fathoms, we
anchored for the night.

August 31st, at daylight, found that we were between the mainland and
Bailley's Islands ; about a mile from the latter, the weather still foggy with a
moderate N. W. breeze ; but determined if possible to discover the fishing party ;
at 7.30 A.M. I left the ship with Mr. Miertsching and Dr. Armstrong in the cutter,
and after coasting about ten miles, discovered upon the extremity of Cape
Bathurst, a large encampment consisting of thirty tents and nine winter houses,
numbering a little over three hundred people. Upon landing upon a very low
isthmus, which connects within a few yards the islands and mainland, we
remarked a commotion at tlie village, and a number of men rushed down the
cliffs, launched their kyacks and crossed to meet us ; hauhng these light and
elegant skiffs on the beach, they advanced with knives drawn and bows bent,
evidently prepared for hostilities ; finding by our jestures that our intentions
were amicable, their bows were returned to their sealskin cases, but the knives
they still retained. The interpreter told them that our visit was friendly, and
that they should put away their knives, " Yes," said they, " when yon do your

ill '

111

guns." To be allowed to carry the musket appeared a great favour, for which
they presented you with their knife as a token of friendship. We remained
upwards of an hour ; during the greater part of the time Mr. Miertsching was in
pamest conversation with the chief, a fine intelligent middle-aged man, upon the
necessity of his forwarding our despatches to the *' Mackenzie," which he
promised most faithfully to perform, for which he was to receive a musket and
ammunition; and upon his delivering the packet, a further reward, equal in'
value to a silver fox skin ; he, however, said that their tribe do not trade with
the " Mackenzie," but with another further south, who, in their turn traffic with
the Indians who are in the servif^e of the Hudson's Bay Company ; so as they
have to pass through three tribes of the heathen before they come into the
hands of civilized man, I think it extremely probable that they may never reach
their destination; Mr. Miertsching, from his knowledge of the Esquimaux
character, thinks otherwise, and imagines that the chief will himself carry
them. The perfect case which this gentleman understands and converses with
these interesting people surprises them ver^- much ; they were most anxious for
him to remain, promising to be very kind The chief presented his daughter, a
very pretty girl of about fifteen, which should be his wife, — tents, and all
appurtenances were to be added. While these negotiations were going fonvard,
upwards of a hundred persons had descended from the village ; with such a
concourse, I did not think it prudent to open the bag containing the presents,
well knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the display of such valuables,
when they are not to be relied on. We consequently returned to the boat ; when
the chief was instructed in the use of his gun ; he showed himself an apt pupil,
and when the ammunition was given into his hands, expressed himself very
much gratified at the gift, and walked towards the village with his chief men.
A line was then made on the beach, which the recipients of gifts were not to

5 ass, (and this ♦hc} perfectly understood) ; the interpreter then commenced the
istribution ; for a little time order was maintained, but the fair sex becoming
clamorous and closing round, the line was broken, and to prevent being driven
into tlie water, we were compelled to retreat to the boat which was lying
aground about twenty yards from the l)each. By this mananivre we escaped
from all that had not on water-tight boots ; but still about forty surrounded the
cutter, and although all the crew were stationed round her to prevent their
getting on board, so eager and persevering were the women, that several were
fifted in, endeavouring to seize everything within their reach ; one of them, in
the most dexterous manner, slipped the compass out of its box into the breast
of her jacket, and with difficulty it was recovered; it was only by great firmness
and stoppage of the supolies that we reduced them to order, or to quit the boat.
The presents being at length distributed and every one in good humour, we
wished them farewell, and commenced launching the boat, in which operation
they most vigorously assisted, and seventeen in their fairy kyacks escorted us to the
ship, arriving about a quarter of an hour before we did, except one, who having
got some little distance oif the shore, encountered a fresh breeze and rough sea:
we shortened sail and took boat and all in, — the poor fellow being drenched, we
offered him a little brandy, which he drank at a mouthful, not being aware of its
strength ; he suffered the sensation to subside without evincing (except by his
eyes watering) any symptom of vexation, and then asked for water. Many came
on board the shin, but only one ventured below, who was exceedingly surprised
to find tliat we had not tents but houses, (cabins), and said he should have
many wonderful things to relate when he went home. This tribe is a fine intel-
ligent race, cleanly, handsome, and well grown ; and I deeply regret that so little
has been hitherto attempted in civilizing them, and sincerely hope that the day is
not lar distant when this interesting people may be redeemed from their deplo-
rable state of heathen darkness. Surely the Hudson's Bay Company would
find it to their advantage, even in a commercial point of view, to civilize these
people, and supply them with traps and guns, &c., instead of allowing them to
kill game with their present inefficient weapons ; thousands of skins would
thereby annually be added to what they now receive. But, feeling that higher
motives will impel that Company to seek tribes inhabiting this bleak frontier of
their territories, and, by the aid of intelligent and energetic missionaries,
endeavour to lead them from their present hopeless state to the blessings of
Christianity, has induced me to give publicity to a fact which, I am con-
fident, requires only to be kno\sii to the many philanthropic gentlemen connected
with that Company to ensure it being speedily redressea.

At 5.40 P.M. we weighed with a moderate breeze from the S.W. and reached
to the S.E. for the purpose of clearini^ the Baillie Islands ; at nine, tacked and
stood to the N.W. The wind bec< aing light and variable during the night
we made but little progress, and a 8 a.m. on the morning of September 1st
observed Cape Bathurst N.E.E. six miles. In the course of the forenoon many
kyacks came oiF; the natives, now assured of our friendly intentions, came on
board without the sligliest reluctance, and through the medium of the interpreter
acquainted us that during the night they had been preparing a least, roasting
whale and venison, and had salmon, blubber, and other delicacies, besides plenty
of skins ready at the tents, and hoped we would come on shore, which, indeed
I should very much have enjoyed had the vessel been in a less precarious
position: but under the present circumstances it was impossible, which it
appeared that those on shore understood, for in the afternoon a great many of
both sexes joined us, and all being clamorous to get on board, we were obliged
to take their kyacks on deck. Seeing their boats were in safety, they made
themselves perfectly at home, examining every article of furniture most minutely.
The pictures and looking glasses in the officer's cabins were objects of much
admiration. Many were dancing with our men. and so mutually happy were
all parties, that it was near six o'clock before I could get them to k-ave the
ship ; indeed, had not the interpreter told them that we were going towards the
pack, and would not again come near their tents, I very much question if we
should have got them away without compulsion. We understand from them
that the main pack is permanent, never leaving the shore above twelve or four-
teen miles. They designate it as " The Land of the White Bear," as it abounds
with the se animals, which they appeared rather to dread, as when we stood
towards the pack in the forenoon, they entreated not to be left there as they
were fearful of the bear now that so many of their women were with them. One
mother mentioned that she had her little child carried away by one of them a short
time previous while playing on the shore a little distance from her : the poor
creature shed tears m relating the catastrophe. At parting, several presents
were bestowed upon them, which had the effect of eliciting promises of friend-
ship for us or any of our white brethren who might come on their coast. These
people had no article of European manufacture, except a few iron pots, which
certainly they gave a very formidable price for, no less than five of the best
silver fox skins for each. The tribe leave the cape about the 20th September
when the ice is sufficiently strong to bear their sledges, for the purpose of barter-
ing with the bordering tribe. They then go to their winter houses some distance
inland, with the exception of a few families who live the entire year upon this

bleak and inhospitable shore September 2d, fine day with light northerly

wind, ran along the pack edge, the ice being heavy and impenetrable, not a
drop of wi V to be seen from the masthead amongst it ; the water between it
and the sho.e is practicable, although encumbered with much loose ice;
experienced a strong current from the S.E. which set us to the westward of the
Baillie Islands. Upon the morning of the 3d, the wind gradually veered to the
southward, bringing with it a very dense fog, and being at the time surrounded with
heavy floe pieces and close sailing ice, through which it was necessary to pursue
our course, so that every advantage might be taken of the favourable breeze :
the vessel occasionally came in violent collision. At noon it cleared "a little,
when Trail Point bore S.S.W. about seven miles, sounded in 65 fathoms (mud)
the nights having a few hours darkness. Blue lights and rockets are fired for
the purpose of attracting the attention of any parties that might be returning
from Wollaston or Victoria Lands, bound to the Mackenzie. — September 4th,
light variable winds with warm weather, the the temperature rising to 41" ; the
water along shore free from ice; about four miles to the westward of the
Horton, sounded in 83 fathoms, and shortly after passed over a narrow shoal
having but 13 fathoms ; a few pieces of heavy ice were grounded upon it. The
land appears to average from 80 to 100 feet in height, composed of blue
clay intermingled with sand. Many whales have been about the ships,
at one time eight, and from one to four the greater part ol' the day. A
bear, the first that has been seen, was likewise remarked upon some loose
ice in shore, but time would not allow of its being pursued. — September 5tli,
the weather which had been squally accompanied by a thick fog during
the early part of the day, cleared towards noon, when a large volume of smoke
was observed aboul twelve miles S.W. and five to the eastward of the

(ii

m
fi

Horton, in the same spot that it had attracted our attention yesterday. As
divers opinions were in circulation respecting its probable cause, and the ice-
mate haviug positively reported that from the crow's nest he could distinguish
several persons moving about dressed in white shirts, and observed some white
tents in a hollow of the cliff, I certainly had every reason to imagine they were
a party of Europeans in distress, convinced that no travellers would remain for
so long a period as we had remarked the ^moke, in one spot, for their pleasure ;
therefore, to satisfy myself equally as others, I determined to send a boat on
shore, as it was now calm. The nrst whale l)oat, under Lieutenant Cresswell,
with Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsching, were despatched to examine into the
cause, who on their return reported the smoke to emanate from fifteen small
:nound8 of volcanic appearance, occupying a space of about fifty yards, the

5>lace strongly impregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about thirty
ect above the sea level, the highest about fifty feet ; the land in its vicinity was
blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water courses, varying in
elevation from .301) to 500 feet : the mark of a reindeer was traced to a small
pond of water immediately above the mounds. A notice of our having hmded
was left, which could not long remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly crumbling
away. Thus the mystery of the white shirts and tents was must satisfactorily
explained. A breeze shortly F-^ringing up from the westward, we made sail to
the N.£. .During the night it freshened considerably, with rain and thick
weather; this, combined with four hours darkness, compelled me to shorten
sail, although loath to lose the full benefit of the fair wind ; but we struck so
heavily agamst large blue floe pieces that were barely above the water, that
the greatest vigilance and attention was insufficient to avoid them, so no alterna-
tive remained to pre\ent disaster. A gieat many seals and whales were seen in
Franklin Bay; no less than fifteen of the latter were playing around us at one
time, but very small, or, according to Greenland fishing phrnseology, " having
only three-foot bone," so Mr. Newton, the ice mate, informs mc. At 4 a.m.
upon the morning of the 6th, we were off the small islands near Cape Parry,
bearing N.E. by N. ten miles, with a fine westerly breeze and loose sailing ice,
interspersed with many heavy floe pieces ; the main pack was about three miles
to the N.W. apparently one solid mass. At 1 1.30 a.m., high land was observed
on the port bow, bearing N.E. by N., distant about fifty miles. On approaching
it the main pack appeared to be resting upon the western shore, which side it
was my intention to have coasted, had it been possible ; the eastern one being,
however, comparatively clear, as far as could be ascertained from the masthead,
decided me to follow the water, supposing it an island round which a passage
would be found into the Polar sea. We continued working to windward the
whole of the night, and by 9-30 a.m. of the 7th were off the South Cape, a fine
bold headland, the cliffs rising perpendicularly upwards of 1,000 feet, which was
named " Lord Nelson's Head, in memory of the hero whose early career was
connected with Arctic adventure. We shortly afterwards hove to, and, with the
first whale-boat and cutter, landed and took possession in the name of Her Most
Gracious Majesty, calling it " Baring's Island," in honour of the First Lord of the
Admiralty. A pole was erected with a large painted ball upon it, near a cask
which was left containin|( a noti6cation and other particulars uf our having been
there. The sights obtained by artificial horizon place the signal-staff in latitude
71° 6' N., longitude 123° 0' W., and the fall of the tide was ascertained to be six
inches during one hour and a half. We observed numerous recent traces of rein-
dv>er hare and wild fowl ; moss, and divers species of wild flowers were also in
great abundance, many specimens of them, equally as of other subjects of inte-
rest to the naturalist, were selected with much care by Dr. Armstrong. From an
elevation obtained of about five hundred feet wc had a fine view towards the
interior, which was well clothed with moss, giving a vcrdiint appearance to the
ranges of hills that rose gradually to between 2,000 and 3,000 feet, intersected
with ravines, which must convey a copious supply of water to a large lake
situated in the centre of a wide plain about fifteen miles distant. The sight to
seaward was favourable in the extreme ; open water, with a very small quantity
of ice, for the distance of full forty miles towards the east, insured good progress
in that direction. Returning on board at 1 p.m., wc made sail to the eastward,
having a beating wind ; continued working along shore, in soundings varving
from nine to seventy-six fathoms ; dark mud mixed with yellow clay, untS
close to the lutd when it ch(U)|rfd (o .fine white sand. The weather becoming

foggy our lead was fhe only guide until 10 a.m. of the 9th ; it then cleared for
a snort time, when land was observed to the eastward, about fifteen miles
distant, extending to the northward as far as the eye could reach, The moun-
tains in the interior are lofty and snow-covered, while the low ^roimd is quite
free; several very remarkable peaks were discernible, appirently of volcanic
origin. This discovery was named Prince Albert's Land, in honour of Her
Majesty's consort ; latitude 72° I' N. longitude 1 19" 26' W. Continuing our
course slowly to the N.E., in consequence of thick fog, snow, and baffling winds,
at 8 A.M. of the 10th we were near two rocky islets, named after Her Royal
Highness the *' Princess Royal," the largest being about 600 feet in height, and
a mile and a half in length, the southern and eastern sides being precipitous ;
the other was about a quarter of a mile long and lOt feet high, gradually
sloping to the water's edge, representing very much the appearance of an
inverted whale-boat. The wind becoming fair and weather clearing, all the
studding-sails were set with the hopes of reaching Barrow Straits, from which
we were now distant about seventy miles, as the water was tolerable clear in
that direction, although muc'n ice was lying against the western land, and from
a shoal extending towards it from the largest of the Princess Royal Islands,
upon which we obtained thirteen fathoms water ; much loose ice was also in
motion, and while endeavouring to run between two floet<, at the rate of four
knots, they closed so rapidly, one upon either beam, that our way was instantly
stopped and the vessel lifted considerably ; in this position we were retained a
quarter of an hour, when the pressure eased and we proceeded. Our advance
was of short duration, <ts at 2 p.m. the wind suddenly shifted to the N.E. and
began to freshen. The vn*er, which a few hburs previous had excited sanguine
hopes of a good run, became soon so thickly studded with floes that by 4 p.m.
there was scarcely sufficient to keep the ship free ; this by much exertion was,
however, effected until 2 a.m. of the 1 1th, when we were beset. At 5 a.m. the
ice again opened, which admitted of our getting a few miles to the north-east,
until 11.30 a.m., when our course was impeded by u very dense pack. As
7 P.M., the wind shifting to the N.W., set tne whole body of the ice ugon the
eastern shore, which shoaled our water from eighty to tifty fathoms in one hour;
a clear space of tvo miles was, however, the result of this movement, in which
we continued working the whole night, and upon the morning of the 12th
perceived we had lost some miles, as the pack was in motion to the southward,
also the further mortification of seeing the whole of the western shore perfectly
exempt from ice, while the space of water we occupied was becoming rapidly
more limited by very large and heavy floes, through which w« were unabfe
to force, and at 11 a.m. were again beset. A fresh gale, with snow,
which continued imtil the morning of the 13th, pressed the ice so li'^'wily upon
the vessel that the rudder was unhung to prevent its getting damaged ; during
the night the temperature fell to 10° and the land became completely snow
covered. On the 15th, however, it rose to 30° with the wind from the S.W.,
which set the ice in motion, compelling us to shift our berth to avoid colUsion
with an immense floe. At 2.30 a.m. commenced warping, which tedious and
laborious dut}' continued with but slight intermission until, half-past twelve,
when we passed into clear water, a run of Ave miles to the N.E. brought us to
another icy field too dense to penetrate, extending from shore to shore, which
here is about twelve miles asunder ; the weather towards sunset becoming thick
with snow, we ran into six fathoms and secured to a piece of grounded ice
under the western land, with the intention of remaining during the night, as
they were then long and dark ; therefore, navigating amongst close ice is quite
impracticable. The wind which had been fresh from the S.W. during the day,
about 7 P.M. fell light, when the ice in the N.E. no longer restrained spi-ead
itself abroad with such rapidity that at a little after eight it was observed
approaching, its white line clearly defined running like an unbroken wave along
the dark smooth water. To turn the hands up, make sail, and cast off the warps,
was but the work of a few minutes, yet with such violence was it impelled thas
we had Kcorcely time to tow clear of the piece we had been fast to, before it
encircled the vessel, sweeping her away to the S.W. into five fathoms. I
expected to have been driven on the beach ; fortunately, from some unseen
GRuse, its coui-se was changed to the S.E., which took us into twenty fathoms,
thus fluctuating between hopes and fcard until 11.45 p.m., when its progress nas
laystenously arrested and gradually opening cut allowed of our 'running into

i'l;:

■i-f

clear water. As the navigable season was now drawing to a close, which thifc
fall in the temperature as well as the formation of pancalce ice upon the surface
of the water whenever the wind became light unmistakeably pointed out, it
became a subject of anxious conHideration what course to adopt in regard to the
safety of the vessel ; whether by running lo the southward, m which direction
the water was still open, endeavour to obtain a harbour in one of the bays,
indenting the south eastern side of " Baring's " Land, the nearest probably
being sixty miles distant ; and then only the chance of finding a safe anchorage,
whicli if our search proved a failure would place the vessel in a worse situation
than at present, exposing her to a wide sea range, subject to heavy pressure
from the enormous massive floes with which the Polar Sea is encumbered, from
which we are here protected by the " Princess Royal " Islands — or continue oiT
advance to the N.E. as long as the season permitted, and then submit to th(
only alternative, that of hazarding a winter in the pack. I decided upon the
latter, for these reasons, that to relinquish the ground obtained through so much
difficulty, labour, and anxiety, for oiuy the remote chance of finding safe wrnte;*
quarters, would be injudicious, thoroughly impressed as I am with the absolute
importance of retaining every mile to ensure any favourable results while
navigating these seas, the loss of which might frustrate the operations of a whole
season. Above all, being in the vicinity of Bank's Land and in the direction
which Sir John Franklin would, hi all probabiUty, have endeavoured to
penetrate could he have reached Cape Walker, I cx)nsidered that our position
was most eligible for carrying into full effect the instructions of my Loras Com*
missioners of the Admiralty when the season liecomes favourable for despatching
.parties upon this important and interesting search. These, Sir, were the consi-
derations which influenced me in this "choice of difficulties," and they will, I trust,
appear of sufficient validity to meet with the concurrence of their Lordships,
hazardous as was the experiment. At 6 a.m. of the 17th the wind, which had
been light from the N. W., gradually died away, when we were almost imme-
diately beset. There were several heavy floes in the vicinity, one full six miles
in length passed at the rate of two knots, crushing everything impeding its
progress, and grazed our starboard bow ; fortunately there was out }'oung ice
upon the opposite side, which yielded to the pressure ; had it otherwise occurred,
the vessel must inevitably have been cut asunder. In the afternoon, secured
to a moderate sized piece, drawing eight fathoms, which appeared to offer a fair
refuge, and from which we never afterwards parted ; it conveyed us to our
ftirthest N.E. position : latitude 73° 7' N. longitude m" \Qf W. back round the
Princess Royal Islands. Passed the largest within 500 yards to latitude 72° 42'
N. longitude 118° 42' W., returning along the coast of Prince Albert's Land,
and finally freezing in at latitude 72° 50' N. longitude 117° 55' W. upon the
30th September, during which circumnavigation we rci eived many severe nips,
and frecjuently driven close to the shore, from which our deep friend kept us off.
To avoid separation we had secured with two stream cables (one chain), two
six and two hve inch hawsers. As our exposed position rendered every precaution
necessory, we got upon deck a twelvemonth's provisions, with tents, warm cloth-
ing &c., and issued to each person a pair of carpet boots and blanket bag, that in
the event of any emergency making it imperative to quit the vessel, we might
not be so destitute. 1 he 8th of October, our perplexities terminated with a
nip that lifted the vessel a foot, and heeled her four degrees to port in conse-
quence of a large tongue getting beneath her, in which position we quietly
remained. As, however, there was a probability of being thrown upon tne ice,
it was requisite that a smooth surface should be made to receive the vessel,
which was accomplished with much facility by blasting the hummocks along
the edge of the floe for about 150 yards and twenty in breadth. This done,
and every indication of the pack l)eing now thoroughly cemented with a temper-
atui c 7 minus, we couipleted housing over and other arrangements for our winter
quarters. As the weather upon the 10th was calm and fine and the ice quiet,
at 8. 30. A.M. left the ship accompanied by Lieutenant Cresswell, Dr. Armstrong,
and Air. Miertsching, with a party of seamen carrying a pole, &c., to plant
upon the shores of Prince Albert's Land, to which we proceeded to take
possession of in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty. This being
accomplished, we walked tii the highest hill observable at the distance of five
miles to an elevation of 1,500 feet, which gave an extended view in every
direction. The country was very hilly, with deep ravines and large lakes. This

appears the general character of the land on both shores. The course of the
watsr towards the N.E. we were anxiouo to trace, hoping to see an opening into
Barrow Strait ; in this we were disappointed from the many low points mter-
vening rendering it impossible to ascertain the land from the sea, both being
fW)zen. On our return we had the mortification to find that the land and sea ice
had separated about 100 yards along the whole line of coast We walked by
its margin for some miles, hoping to meet with a loose piece of ice to ferry
across, but night closing rapidly, subjected us to so many falls, owing to the
inequalities of our road not bemg distinguishable, we were compelled to halt,
and commenced firing to attract attention, but our distance from the ship
was too far to render our signals of any utiUty. At 8.30. p.m. Mr. Court,
with one of the many parties that were searching the ice in all directions,
fortunately saw our flashmg and made for it, but unsuspecting our dilemma was
created b^ open water, had no boat. Immediately returning, he met with a
party which nad two of Halkett's ; these were soon launched, only getting them
through the pancake ice, which was by this time an inch thick, was attended
with great difficulty ; the sea ice also rapidly setting to the northward ; the
boats after each transit had to be carried south before being launched, so as to
ensure their reaching the only spot from which the party to be relieved could
embark. This operation commenced at 10.30 p.m., and by midnight we were
all over, and reached the ship at 2.30 a.m. ; all parties meeting with heavy falls,
but receiving no accident of c >> sequence. I cannot refrain from noticing the
excellency of Halkett's boats, or speak in too high terms of the ingenuity of
their inventor. These admirable little articles were inflated on board, and with
the greatest facility carried upon a man's shoulders over ice, which from its
excessive roughness, no other boat could, by any possibility, have been got
across without being smashed. By their means a large party were relieved ;
who, without tents, dothing, fuel, provisions, or in any way provided to with-
stfnd the severities of a polar night, with the thermometer 8° minus, the
consequences to them might have been very serious. As it was, however, the
annexation of " Prince Alberts" land to the British Crown was considered to
have terminated so favourably, that I directed an extra supper and allowance of
grog to be issued to my energetic crew, as a reward for their eight hours rigorous
exertions.

Being dissatisfied with the view obtained from Prince Albert's land, respecting
the waters we were now in, as to their connexion with Barrow Strait, which
would settle the question of a North- West Passage, I determined to proceed in
that direction with a travelling party, although rather late in the season, as
soon as I felt that the vessel mi^ht be safely quitted, which I judged would
occur after the ensuing spring tides, if at that period there was no commotion
amongst the ice. Accordingly, upon the 21st, everything being favourable, I
started with Mr. Court (second master), and the men, as per margin ; the ice
for two miles from the ship was so rough, that Lieutenant Haswell and the
whole of the ship's company were occupied in carrying the sledge and different
articles of lading. At 8 a.m. the sledge was finally packed, when with the fatigue
party in charge of Mr. Wynniatt (mate), accompanied by Dr. Armstrong (as
an amateur S we set off to the N.E. At noon the fatigue party having taken us
eight miles, were directed to return. Soon after quitting us, we got amongst
very difficult ice ; the sledge was broken, but quickly fishing it, proceeded.
Unfortunately, scarcely an hour had elapsed, when crobsiog a floe, the
inequalities of which were imperceptible, it came down with such a crcsh, that
it broke into pieces. This was unlucky, but pitching our tent, Mr. Court and
Peter Thomson (captain of the fore top) started for the ship, where they
arrived at 7-30 p.m., and rejoined the next day at 2 p.m., with a fresh and larger
sledge, and a fatigue party with Mr. Wynniatt to carry the damaged one back.
This party, upon my return, I found d.id not get on board until the following
day, being stopped by heavy snow drift, but having a tent and provisions did
not suffer. As soon as the new comers were refreshed, the sledge was
packed, and by 3 p.m. were again off, continuing our course without any
further disaster, until 3.45 p.m. of the 26th, when we had the extreme gratification
of pitching our tent upon the shores of Barrow Strait, (position as per margin,)
nearly on the line as represented in the charts where Sir Edward Parrv has very
correctly marked the loom of the land. Upon the following morning, before
sunrise, Mr. Court and myself ascended a small hill about 600 feet in height, so

£3

Bobt. CaUer, CapMhi

of ibt Foreenlle.
Robt. Tifftm^. C*ptain

of tlw llaiutop.
Mich. FljDB, Ouuter-

Moter.
Geo. RrovD, A3.
F. Thonnon, Captain

of the FoRttp.
Jit. Saunden, I'riTate

Royal Marinei

LatTS 31' W.
Long. JK" 39'W.

„" lii^u'W.

(lunar.

I !'■'

Lieulriuint Hiuwe..,
St^uth-eut shore,

f .!*itt*ittant ^fMacr^'l

North-west sh-.iru,

Mr, WvDniatt, imk',

NorthtMi ihert.

that we could command an extensive view of forty or fifty miles ; the extreme
point of Prince Albert's Land bore latitude 78" E. true, about thirty-five
miles, the furthest land North, N.N.E., eif|;ht miles. The Melville Island shore
could not be discovered, but in that direction the ice appeared to be very heavy,
and the floes exceedingly large. While we were making these observations, the
crew were busily engaged erecting a cairn about fifteen feet above the water,
(which had been named Prince of Wales* Strait, in honour of His Royal
Highness,) in which a copper cylinder was deposited; the spot is so con-
spicuous, that any person passing along the shore must remark it. All being
completed by ten a.m. of the 27th, we turned for the ship, arriving upon the
morning of the 31st, having in nine days made, in a direct line, one hundred and
fiily-six miles by observations, with a teinperature between + 7° and — 13°.
Upon the afternoon of the 30th, the weather which had been overcast suddenly
brightened, showing the Princess Royal Islands, distant about twelve milef>.
At three p.m . I left the sledge, with the intention of getting early on board, to
have everything in readiness for the comfort of the party, anticipating their
arrival at nine p.m. Unfortunately the weather became again loggv about
five P.M., followed soon by darkness, consequently my way was speedily lost,
compellin^r me to wander about the floe during the night, with a temperature
from 5° to 15° muius ; when at seven the next morning had the mortification to
find that I had passed the vessel four miles, which I reached by 8.30 a.m., and
immediately despatched a party cu assist Mr. Court, who was at five miles
distance, hanng most judiciously encamped about seven miles from the ship,
when the fog fa«came too dense to travel.

-. J was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant Haswell, that on the 29th
a party, consisting of Messrs. Sainsbury, Paine, Miertsching, and Newton,
while sporting upon " Prince Albert's" land, had encountered u herd of musk
cattle, two bulls, u cow, a heifer, and a calf, and most adroitly shot the whole,
which yielded twelve hundred and ninety-six pounds of excellent nutritious
meat ; a supply thus opportune and unexpected, may be regarded as a most
favourable termination to our season's operations, in whicli wc have been nearly
enabled to carry out verbatim their Lordships' instructions, in reaching the ice
by the 1st August, and establishing a position neav Uanks's Lund, whicli service
has been performed under circumstances over which we could exercise but little
control, our only credit consisting in seizing the advantages that an invisible
power .scattered along our road, through fields of ice, where all human exertioii
would have been equally' unavailing as the feebleness of a child to advance us
one yard.

The winter, that dreary period of the voyage which I had looked forward
to with much apprehension, passed mildly away, there being very little snow or
wind, without our sanitary state being in the slightest degree impaired, for
which happiness I assign these reasons, viz. : —

1st. The unflafl^ng spirits and cheerfulness of the men.

2nd. The excellency of every species of provisions. "*

3rd. The free ventilation of the lower deck.

4th. The extreme attention of Dr. Armstrong (upon our monthly inspections)
to the state of the crew.

So that the month of March found us in a most healthy and efficient
condition ; accordingly upon the 3d we commenced our preliminary duties by
taking a thirty-foot whale boat to the larger Princess Royal Islands, where it is
my intention to leave three months provisions for all hands, that, at the breaking
up of the ice, should the vessel untbrtunately get crushed, we may have a
certainty to faJl back upon, which will enable us to reach the " Plover without
hazard "of starvation ; this duty being completed, as well as the transporting
another whale boat, besides one of Halkett s to the eastern shore, distant five
miles, for the facility of allowing the travelling parties going along that roast to
reach the islands, should the ice break up and carry the vessel away during
their absence ; all arrangements being now made for the start of the searching
parties, and the weather becoming very favourable for travelling, upon the 18th
of April three were despatched under the officers and in the direction as per
margin with six weeks' provisions each.

At 1 AM.. May 6thj Mi'. Wynniatt (mate) having broken his chronometer at
the distance of one hurtdred £Uld twenty miles from the ship retumed^ but all
being in good cot^tion,' tti^' were completed to thirty days pfovisions, and

«0

at 6 P.M., were ngain en route. At the same time tA'o huntinc partiei, with
tents, &c., left the ship, one lor each Hide of the straitM, rh Hoinc deer had been
seen, besides several ptarmigan, and four hares shot ; this early indication of
fresh provisions is a subject of deep congratulation, independent of the very
healthy and exciting occupation for the crew, who are all eager for the sport.

May 20th, Lieutenant Cresswell returned in consequence of the severe frost-
bites of two of his men, having reached the latitude and longitude as per
margin, being absent thirty-one days. During the greater part of the time he
was subject to strong N.W. winds sweeping from the Polar Sea, through
Barrow Strait, which meeting him in the face rendered it exceedingly diiticult
to walk against, the thenuometer being f»' lentiy 15° below zero. He however
traced the coast line, which for about seventy miles along Banks Land was very
precipitous, averaging from one thousand to fourteen hundred fSeet, from whicn
it gradually sloped to a |^ oint trending to S.W., apparently the extreme of the
land in that direction, as it abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a
thousand feet, aided by an exceeaing clear atmosphere, left no doubt in his mind
but th(.t the Polar Sea was before him, and tnat Banks's Land is a part of
Baring's Island. He was anxious to have made a further advance, and encamped
during two days with the hope that the invalids would recover ; but finding
them getting ciucli- worse he very properly deemed it advisable to return with
all httstc to the ship ; before reaching ncr, however, both had to be borne upon
the sledge, which threw the work upon four men. When getting into heavy
snow the officer had to fall in at the drag ropes ; nevertheless, the working
party arrived in most excellent health and spirits. On the 2l8t a large bear
was killed; upon examination of the stomach an extraordinary medley was
discovered, consisting of raisins, tobacco, pork, and adhesive plaster, that I
came to the conclusion that the "Enterprise" must be near, the animal not having
been seen before near our dirt heap, nor were there anv traces of him about the
shin. I theretV)re determined to send a party to the S.W., the only direction we
haa no travellers, to satisfy myself upjn the subject ; accordingly at 6 p.m. on
the 22d, Lieutenant Cresswell with his party, completed with two fresh hands,
were agnin despatched with provisions until June 10th. Upon the 24th the
above mystery was satisfactorily solved, some men in pursuit of a bear about
half a mile from the ship, picked up a preserved meat tin with articles in it
indentical with those found in the stomach of the bear killed on the 21st ; the
foot prints of the animal were likewise abundant upon the snow, this evidence
was perfectly conclusive as to the locality when Brain had obtained his dainties.
This being the anniversary of the birth-day of Her Most Gracious Majesty, a
royal salute was fired, and the colours displayed in celebration of the event.
29th ; Lieutenant Haswell and party returned all in the most perfect health,
having traced the coast towards Wollaston Land, to latitude 70° .38' N., longi
tudc 11.5° \\ ., from which point, the day being remarkably clear, he observed
the outline of land to the distance of full forty miles trending to the S.W. ;
but having advanced twenty-five days, he considered it prudent to proceed no
further. Two large inlets and a deep bay wore examined, beside an arcnipelago of
small islands along the northernmost shore of the southernmost inlet, which is
high, bold, and stratified ; each inlet trending to the E.N.E. from 80 to 90 miles.
The whole coast was strewed with driftwood, and many vestages of Esquimaux
encampments wcremet with, but a of very old date. Upon returning, he was much
surprised to find a party consisting of eighteen natives encamped upon the ice,
a few miles from the N.W. point of the northernmost inlet m quest of seals,
they were very friendly and well disposed, but not understanding each other, no
information could be obtained. They exchanged a few presents, and upon that
day week he arrived on board, having remained out his forty-tVro days, thereby
fulfilling his instructions to the lettier. Ih consequence of the above, I iihme-
diately decided upon proceeding to these people for the purpose of obtaining
information that might determine the question relating to " Prince Albert's,
" Wollaston, and Victoria Lands," as to their fortning part of the American
Continent, or whether each was an island ; therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching
(our invaluable intrepreter) and twelve days' provisions, at 6 p.m. we started,
and early upon June .3d, fell in with them about ten miles to the northward of the
point, where they were first met with. They conversed freely with the interpreter,
giving every intormation we required relative to the trending of the coast as far
as they knew, which was soiMe fist emoe along ^' Victoria" LftM ^ this they did by

£ 4

l^«. 47' 1(1. N.
Long 117^ «yW.

'i<

I. it

•I

f.MuUuat CNMirtll. A.H,

tracing upon a laroe sheet of paper wliicli I brought for that purpose, continu*
ing a sketch whidi Mr. Miertsching had made fVoni the ship to their tents,
which they immedately comprrhen(fcd ; and as they were very particular in
placing the islands of Sutton and Liston with three smaller ones not mentioned
in the chart oif* WoUaston Land ; I am, therefore, fully persuaded of its cor-
rectness, and only regretted that they could not go further, ( a tracing of which
accompanies this narrative.) They dcscribedalargelandopposite WoUaston, called
" Nunavak Saraluk;" this of course is America, to which they had never been,
as they only trade with the Esquimaux to the S.E., nor had they the slightest
article of European manufacture about them, llie use and sight of iron was
perfectly new, all their implements being copper, their spears and arrows barl>cd
with the same. The copper ore is remarkably fine ; but not observing any
when at the tents, (the specimen was given me by one of our men some time
after quitting them, ) unfortunately we lost the opportunity of inquiring where it
was procured ; but I am inclined to think that it comes from the south-east tribes
in their Imrtering transactions, as the few and simple ornaments which they
possessed were ot that metal, and obtained from thence. These are a kind, simple,
and purely pastoral tribe, devoid of the knavish propensities which so strongly
characterise those upon the Mackenzie ond Colviile, where intercourse with civi-
lized men has demoralized the savage. Upon displaying the presents brought for
them, the utmost propriety was observed; although, doubtless, all were anxious to
participate in those treasures, there was not that eagerness to seize which rendered
our interchange with the other Esquimaux so troublesome. So far was it from these
to do so, that it was with difficulty we could persuade them to accept without our
receiving an equivalent ; they inquiring of the interpreter, after each article that
Nvas given them, what we wanted for it. A piece of scarlet cloth, which I tied
round a girl's neqk remained there until we were going away, when she ran up
to Mr. MiertscbinK to ask what she was to give in exchange, and when assured
it was a gift irom me chief she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No
weapons were remarked amongst them except for the chase. Their whole
demeanour bespoke peace. They live near tneir present locality the whole
year, not going any further to the northward, or do they believe that there are
any others in that direction ; but to the S.E. along Victoria and WoUaston Land
the coast is thickly populated. It appears very extraordinary that they do not
even possess traditionary legends of their ancestors having been north, where
the numerous traces which we meet with upon both sides of the straits, as well
as on the large Princess Royal Island, show that at one period the whole of this
coast must have been densely populated. Their language, Mr. Miertsching
observes, is identical with that spoken upon the Labrador Coast. At half-pa-st
nine we left this interesting people on our return to the ship, which we reached
at 7 v.M. of the 5th, exceedingly gratified by the result of our pleasant excur-
sion, our onlv misfortune being Cornelius Hullett, mv coxswain, having both
feet badly irost nipped. At 5 a.m. of the 7th, Mr. Wynniatt, mate, returned
%vith his party, having been fifty days under the tent, from his cxploratian of a
portion of the south-eastern shores of Barrow Straits as far as Intitude 72° 6' N.,
longitude 107° 42' W. (D.R.), from whence the land was observed for about
fifteen miles tending to the N.E. Afler rounding Point Peel, latitude 73° 21' N.,
longitude 112° 30' W., the north-west point of Prince Albert's Land, he reports
it to be in all respects as to formation the same as in this vicinity for the
distance of about forty miles, when upon crossing a deep inlet, the land then
assumed a north-west aspect, when it became high, precipitous, and barren ; no
driftwood of any description was met with, but the ice lay against its base in
heavy and unbroken masses. Further to the eastward a lesser one was circum-
ambulated, having in it severa' small islands, with its southern shore formed of
stratified cliff, having an elevation of about 800 feet. Upon the 10th, at 7.4.5.
A.M., Lieutenant Cresswell and party, having completed their nineteen days,
returned from their search towards the S.W. (to latitude 71° 10' N. longitude
123° 4' W.), making in the aggregate fifty uiider the tent, during which he has
coasted three sides of Baring's Island, from the north shore of which he looked
upon the Polar Sea, and upon the south walked four-and-twenty miles on it ;
both presenting the same smooth surface, which I consider to be attributable to
the long prevalence of north-easterly winds at the termination of the navigable
seasoHj settin" the heavy ice which we encountered and saw resting upon the
western side o? the island, over to the American and Asiatic shores, which may

CHuie the great difficulty in rounding Point Barrow late in the HcaHon.
Unfortunately the weather became overcast, which limited hit view to the
northward, only allowing him to obaerve that the coast was high und
bold. Upon thin excursion he met with four partitions of the ice varying
in breadth from ten to twenty feet, apparently running across the Mtrait ;
but being provided with one of Halkett s vaiuaole \\V\c boats, this obstacle,
which would otherwise have caused a detour of many miles, was easily
overcome; it is impossible to recommend these boats too highly upon a service
of this description, where every article of weight is objectionable ; their whole
fitting is but twenty-five pounds ; when not required they form a platform on
the sledge to stow the baggage, and when in use, they are carried inflated upon
the top. Thus on two occasions they have been of essential service, without the
smallest inconvenience. Lieutenant Creswell erected a cairn and deposited ".
cylinder within it upon a low beach near Cape Lambton ; he also remarked the
vestiges of Esquimaux encampments upon almost every part of the coast upon
which he pitched his ti;nt for the night, many of them thickly strewed with the
heads of musk oxen, which denotes no paucity of those animals upon these
lands ; indeed, nt the present time both shores of t!ie strait are covered with
wild fowl of every description, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptarmigan and golden
plover. This is certainly the most fertile port of the Pohr Regions, and inust l)c
the breeding place of those animals, who nnd rich pasturage amongst its alluvial

Elains and valleys, unmolested by the Esquimaux, the traces of whose remains
eing overgrown with moss and rotten, have reference to a time long anterior.
This party, with much spirit and zeal, performed their return journey of upwards
of one hundred and sixty miles, in nine days and a half, under circumstanct's
reflecting much credit upon them, the lateness of the season lK>ing unfavourable
to so rapid an advance. All being now on board and in excellent health, with
the exception of three of the travellers suffering from frost nips, our season's
travelling operations may be considered to have terminated fortunately ; and
from the close examination which has been made over a vast extent of coast,
whose direct distance by observation embraces eight hundred miles, to which ii
third may be added for the devious windings of the coast line, without observing
the slightest 'estiges of any spar, or other indication of civilized man having
reached these- shores, I am fully confident th<it the missing expedition under
Sir John Franklin has never penetrated towards the Polar Sea in this direction,
as some portion of the immense moss of stores, spars, or fitments with which
those ships were provided, must have l)een picked up, when driftwood of
very inconsiderable dimensions did not escape observation. (A chart showing
the extent of discovery and course of eacn searching party accompanies this
letter.)

I am also of opinion that " Prince Albert's " Land is part of the continent of
America, and that Point " Peel ** is its north-west extremity, and that the land
from thence is continuous to Cape Walker. The peculiar formation of its shores,
from the very deep inlets which run into the interior, give the appearance of
straits, which in reality do not exist, as was apparently the case between
Victoria and Wollaston Lands, and which is very probably the same betwixt
Cape Walker and North Somerset. My opinion is strengthened by the
Esquimaux upon this coast speaking the same language as those of Hudson's
Straits, which Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter, thoroughly understands, and
conversed fluently with them, while with those of the Colville and Cape
Bathurst he found it sometimes difficult to uo so ; consequently, J think it. very

Erobable that the forefathers of these have crossed from Hudson's Straits and
ept the coast line of Victoria and Wollaston Land, and have thus retained the
Imrity of their language, which those upon the north coast of America have
ost by constant intercourse with the Indians. I certainly should have con-
sidered it my duty to endeavour deciding this point by detaching a boat through
the Dolphin and Union Straits; but I feel assured that service has been
accomplished by Dr. Rae last year, as he evidently was not in this direction.

During the absence of the searching parties, the refitting of the ship was
carried on under the direction of Messrs. Sainsbury (mate) and Court (second
master) so that upon their return little remained but to get the boats from the
eastern shore, and the tents and appurtenances which the shooting parties had
upon each side of the strait on board, the weather being unfavourable, and the state
of the ice becoming too precarious to allow of any person's being so far distant

from the iihip. This being elcctvU, M alHO thc> rcpairiufi^ and p«intiiitf otH bout which
18 to be kfl with tbo provij<oaii at the liirKv " PrinccnH Roynl" Inland, cum-

the itatiMfiu't Ion of liaving every one on board,

provw
pU'ted. upon the 13th wc hm. ....v nuv....... .../.. ... .......,, ^,..,, ^... ».. .,.,^^,

with the vcHHel thoroughly lefitteu, fiuilked, puiiited, and watered, mid in cvtry
rcvpcct ai efficient for the itcrvice we liiivc to perform a» tho day that we I'lt
Plymouth, with a trifling uk'k list, principally from the effectM of front nipit. dnd
foot-Moreness from the travelling. We now uwait, with no little anxiety, the
diHruption of theic mighty maMHett of ice by which we ure encircled, <uid the
con^e<|uenccii depending upou that event, which cannot \ni contcuiplftted
without ('eep apprehenHion.

The firtt mdication of open wuter (K-curred tt)-duy (July 7th), extending mtme
diatancc alon^ the tihore of " Prince Albert's" Lund about u mile in width j the
ice in every direction is ao rapidly decaying, being nmch m iclcrated by sleet and
rain, with a thermometer stanuing at 45°, ho that by the 14tli, that which for the laat
few dayH had been nlightly in motion with large xpaccM of water interveningi nud-
denly and noiseleHitly opened around the vchhcI, leaving her in a pond of forty
yuras ; but nceing no posHibility of getting without its limits, wc were compelled
to secure to the floe which had for ten months befriended us, and witn the
whole of the pack gnulually drifted to the Houthward towards the " Printx'M
Royal " Islands, whiqh we passed on the eastern t^ide within half a mile. Upon
the 17th, at 10 a.m., being amongst loose ice, wc cast off from tho floe and made
sail with the hope of getting upon the western 8horc, where the water appeared
to be making ; out without shipping the rudder, in conucciuencc of being in the
vicinity of several large floes, and at 2 p.m. again secured to a floe l)etween the
" Princess lloyal" and '• Baring's" Islands (we passed over u slioal liaving nine-
teen fathoms). — On the 20th, at 11.30 a.m., a light air irom the S.W., which
slacking the ice, gave ho|)es of making progress to the N.K., in which direction
I was anxious to get for the purpose of entering " Barrow " Strait, that accord-
ing to circumstances I might be enabled to carry out my original intentions of
proceeding to tb». lorthward of Melville Island, as detailed m my letter to the
Secretary of the Admiralty of July 20th 1850, or sliould such not be practi-
cable, return to England through the strait. The ship was cast of}', and a mile
gained when the wind died away and we were again beset on the morning of the
22d. Open water appearing in the N.E., the rudder v.ih shipped in expecta-
tion of a start, which was not, however, realized until the afternoon of the 23d,
when a light S.W. wind set the ice to the N.E., carrying us over i\ shoal,
upon which there was much grounded in thirteen fathoms : the corner of the
floe to which we were attached coming in contact with some of these masses
gave way, throwing pieces of twel/e and fourteen feet square completely
out of the water. It grazed the hard bottom with a sound not unlike distant
thunder, as it crashed, crumbled, and upheaved, tluowing an enormous mound
up in its centre, as if under the influence of volcanic agency, and then rent
asunder, the part we were secured to remaininf,^ firmly grounded, while the
other and lighter portion being forced onwards v\ : th accelerated speed came
direct for our unprotected stern. To let go wur[)s and anchors wrj* but the
work of a minute, and most fortunate were wc in iKioniplishing it, us ere they
coidd be got on board it struck the stem, forcing the ship ahead at the rate of
two knots. A small space of open water, occasioned by the grounding of the
floe, allowed of our advance, when h> warping and towing v o speedily got
beyond its influence. Had our positiiMi l)een less favourable, nothing could
have saved the vessel from momentary dcHtruction, and at 11.30 p.m., with a
breeze from the S.E., made sail tlirough large leads of water towards the
eastern side of the straits, and by the aflern.wn of the 24th had nearly reached
Point Armstrong, upon which the ice \mi8 resting, and our course checked.
There was much driftwood on thi' l)each of large dimensions, mostly American
pine, the cutter was consequently despatched for a load, and some of the pieces
appeared so fresh that Mr. Ford, the carpenter, was of opinion that two years
is the extreme of their (juittiug the forest. i'Ue Avind veering to the westward
during the night set large bodies of ice into the water we occupied, which was
rapid!}' filling. To pR'\ent Ixing forced on shore wc wore obliged, at 8 a.m. of
the 25th, to run into the pack, where we drifted according to the tide about a
mile and a half from the beach; but during the twenty-four hours made about two
miles and a half to the N.E., from which, I am of opiuiun, when taken with
the quantity of driftwood that is thickly strewed along the beach, that on this

r-ar-

ride of tlte Btrait then; lifa'Nlfgfit current to ihe N.T!., whfle upon tbe oppoiite
one it setti to the xmithw^rd, upon which therr is iicarcely any wood, nnd our
proprctm while Niniilnrly situated whn in ii .southern direction. We continued
drifling in the park without meeting any ihstruction until 10 a.m. of Augunt lit,
when a sudden and most unt-xpcctid motion of the ice Hweui u* with much velo-
city to the N.K., towardH a low point off which were Mevcral Rhoalit awauh, having
many heavy piecev of grounded ice u|>on them, towardH which we were directly
letting, dccreafling the soundingH from twenty-four to nine fathonm and u hair:
defltruction wan it|)j>arently not far distant when most opportunely the ice cased
a little, and a tresn wind coming from the land, sail wan immediately made,
which, assisted hy warps, enabled the ship to be forced ahead about two
hundred yards, that shot us clear of ice and point into sixteen and a half
fiithomi, m which water we rounded the shoals. The ice tlicn again closed,
and the ship became fixed until the 14th, when the fog, which sinc^ yesterday
had been very dense, cleare<l ond discovered open w.ter about half a mile from
the vessel, with the ice loose about her. At noon commenced warping, and at
d P.M. passed into it with a light breeze from the N.E., that corrica us some
distance along the eastern shore. At 1 1 p.m. the fog was so thick that wc wet'e
coitipelled to make fast to a floe, having, while standing in sliore, stirred up the mud
while in stays, shooting from no soundings iit twenty-nvc fathoms to a quarter less
three, which convinced me of the impracticability of remaining under weigh,
OS, had we l)cen set on the beach, tiie ice which came in before a freshening
north-easter oi*t of Barrow Straits would have most effectually detained
us there. Previous to ijuitting the floe, I was desirous of trying what effect
blasting would have upon sucli a mass. A jur contiiining thirty-six pounds of
powder \*as let down twelve feet into the water near the center, the average
thickness was eleven feet, and its diameter four hundred yards ; the result was
most satisfactory, rending it in every direction, so that with the greatest case wc
could effect a passage through any part of it. — August l.'Jth, at 8 a.m., the fog
cleared a little, which showed the base of the clifls very close, wc were in forty-
two fathoms ; having water to the westward, wc instantly made sail in that
quarter, and iit 1 1 a.m., being unable to see in any direction again made fast,
having canied away the spanker-boom in breaking through a neck of ii'c, which
forced the vessel from the wind, causing it to' jib. Our soundings increased to
Bixtv-two fathoms, and the ice was ascertained to be setting bodily a mile and a
hall an hour to the W.S.W., so that upon the weather clearing, at thirty minutes
A.M. of the I6th, wc found the vessel had been drifled fifteen miles to the S.W. ;
as there was, however, water to the eastward, every exertion was made to reach
it by warping, and at 3 a.m. sur(v>pfl( ' working alonging the eastern shore 'j
acertain what probability e>i . ot being able to round the pack and thus get
into Barrow Straits, froiii > inch we were not distant more than twenty -five
miles; at 9 a.m. all lui| .lisoppeared, as a clear view from the crow's nest
dicovered the ice to be clo>cl \ packed, resting upon Point Lady Ross extending
one unbroken line to the oinposite side of the strait. This- determined me to
give up all idcaof pt . cutrng our search in this direction, having been foiled
m attempting thi' ,vi-.sage the latter end of one season, and at the commence-
ment of anotlier, 1 considered it not practicable, except . .der the favourable
circumstance of a continuance of south-westerly winds, which would drive the ice
into Ban ow Straits; but I imagine there would be littU iifliculty in coming
from the N.E., from which quarter we found the winds prevail. Our greatest
advance in that direction was latitude 73° 13' 13" N., longitude ' 15° 32' 30" \V. ;
accordingly, at 9-30 a.m. we bore upwiththe intention of running to the southward
of Nelson's Head, and continue our search along tiic western side of Baring's
Island, with the hope of reaching the entrance of Barrow St ait by that route;
as ftom till report of Lieutenant Cresswell, I felt convinced that by Banks's
Land tiiere is a passage from the Polar Sea. At 4 p.m. passed the " Princess
Royal's" Islands with a fine beeze ; not a particle of ice to be seen in any direc-
tion, which only a month previous had presented enormous floes, and heavy
grounded masses lying against their base and upon the shoal connecting them,
which wc considered had l)een there for years and likely to remain for many
more ; even the huge pieces which had been thrown upon the eastern shore had
vanished, so that every vestige of that formidable element had passed away
which tor nearly eleven montlis had held us in its trammels. — Upon the i/th,
while n6af Nels6n's Head, with a fine breeze from the S.E.', we experiiehced a

111

heavy swell from that direction, causinj^ the vessd to pitch the hawse-holes under
and send the sea as far aft as the fore hatchway. A circumstance so unusual was
hailed as a favourable omen, beinff a convincing proof that we were in much open
water, and at 11.30 p.m. rouucfed the Head: the land for about twenty-five
miles to the westward is remarkably bold and Jotty ; where Cape Hamilton jut-
ting out and rising perpendicularly one thousand feet, presents a grand
termination to it in that direction, from which it gradually recedes to the
N.W., where it loses this bold character, partaking more of that remarked
in the Prince of Wales' Strait, being ranges of hills gradually sloping from the
interior to the shore, having fine valleys and extensive plains, several small
and one considerable river, the water from the latter discolouring the sea two
miles from its mouth, likewise many small lakes and harbours, which, how-
ever, would be only of utility for boats, as a heavy surf was breaking across
their entrances. Much driftwood strewed the beach, and the land was well
covered with verdure, upon which were large flocks of geese feeding, while
ducks were flving in great numbers, and have little doubt that a walk a short
distance inland would have discovered herds of deer and musk oxen. Nothing
that was on the coast could escape observation, or could anything be more
favourable for the object we had in view, as with a fair wind and fine clear
weather, we ran along it from one to two miles* distance. At 4 p.m. of the 18th,
being off a very low spit of land (Point Kellett) which extended to the west-
ward for about twelve miles in the form of a horse-shoe, having its sea side
thickly studded with grounded ice, while the interior was exempt from any, I
sent Mr. Court (second master,) to examine it, who reported an excellent and
commodious harbour, well sheltered from N.W. to S., carrying five fathoms
within ten yards of the beach, which was shingle and covered with driftwood ; a
set of sights were obtained, and a cask contaming a notice was left there, its
position latitude 71° 56' N., longitude 125° 29' W. ; from this the land turns
abruptly N. by E., and a great change takes place in its general aspect, gradually
becoming low and flat, so that near the beach it is scarcely discernible, resem-
bling separate sand banks, but upon closing it, a low spit, barely above the level
of the water, was remarked connecting them. The lead may be considered an
infallible guide along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are regular from
three to thirty fathoms at from one to four miles off shore ; upon the morning of
the 19th, wc left this low coast and passed between two small islands lying
at the entrance of what appeared a deep inlet, running E.S.E., and then turning
sharp to the N.E., it had a barrier of ice extending across, which prevented any
examination : wishing to keep between the northermost of these islands and the
mainland to avoid the pack which was very near it, we narrowly escaped getting
on shore, as a reef extended from the latter to witbin half a mile of the island ;
fortunately the wind being light we rounded to with all the studding sails set, and
let go the anchor in two and a half fathoms, having about four inches to spare
under the keel, and warped into four, while Mr. Court was sent to find a channel,
in which he succeeded, carrying three fathoms, through which we ran for one mile,
and then continued our course in eight, having from three to five miles between
the ice and laud. At 8 p.m. were near two other islands, the ice resting upon the
westermost, upon which the pressure must have been excessive, as large masses
were forced nearly over its summit, which was upwards of forty feet ; between
these and the mam we ran through a channel in from nine to fifteen fathoms,
when an immediate and marked change took place in the general appearance
and formation of the land ; it became high, precipitous, sterile, and rugged,
intersected with deep ravines and water courses, having sixty-five, a quarter of
a mile, and fifteen fathoms one hundred yards from the cliffs, which proved
exceedingly fortunate, as the whole pack which had apparently only just broken
from the shore, was within half a mile, and in many places so close to it that to
avoid getting beset we had nearly to touch the land ; indeed upon several
occasions the boats were compelled to be topped up, and poles used to keep the
vessel from off the grounded ice, which extends all along this coast ; nor could
we round to, fiearful of carrying the jib-boom away against its cliffs, which
here ran nearly eoft and west, (the Cape forming its western extreme I have
culled " Prince Alfred," in honour of His Royal Highness) there were two
apparently good harbourS; about twenty miles to the eastward of the cape, the
w estcrnmost had a breakwater, half a mile in length, twenty feet high, facing
the noith, with entrances on it« east wd west sides about sixty yards in breadth :

the other was circular, about three quarters of a mile in diameter, with its
entrance on the west side. Our critical position would not admit of any detention,
otherwise they would have be«n sounded ; being very anxious to nnd a secure
retreat, in the event of having to winter on this coast. The weather, which had
been fine, with a south-east wind, veered to the W.S.W., bringing fog and rain,
so that on the morning of the 20th, our further progress was impeded, by finding
the ice resting upon a point which formed a slight indentation of the shore, and
was the only place were water could be seen. To prevent being carried away
with the pack which was filling up its space, we secured to the inshore side of a
small, but heavy piece of ice, grounded in twelve fathoms, seventy-four yards
from the beach ; the only protection against the tremendous polar ice, (setting
a knot per hour to the eastward, before a fresh westerly wind,) which at 9 p.m.
placed us in a very critical position, by a large floe stnking the piece we were
fast to, and causing it to oscilate so considerably, that a Longue, wnich happened
to be under our bottom, lifted the vessel six feet ; but, by great attention to the
anchors and warps, we succeeded in holding on during the conflict, which was
continued several minutes, terminating by the floe being rent in pieces, and our
being driven nearer the beach. — From this until the 29th, we lay perfectly
secure ; but at 8 a.m. of that day, the ice began suddenly to move, when a large
floe that must have caught the piece to which we were attached utider one of
its overhanging ledges, raised it perpendicular thirty feet, presenting to all on
board a most frightful aspect. As it ascended above the fore yard, much appre*
hension was felt that it might be thrown completely over, when the ship must
have been crushed beneath it. This suspense was but for a few minutes, as the
floe rent, carrying away with it a large piece from the foundation of our asylum,
when it gave several fearful rolls and resumed its former position ; but no longer
capable of resisting the pressure, it was hurried onward with the drifting mass.
Our proximity to the shore, compelled, as our only hopes of safety, the absolute
necessity of holding to it, we consequently secured with a chain stream and
hemp cable, three six and two five inch hawsers, three of which were passed
round it. In this state we were forced along, sinking large pieces beneath the
bottom, and sustaining a heavy strain against the stem and rudder ; the latter
was much damaged, but to unship it at present was impossible. At 1 p.m. this
pressure eased, from the ice becoming stationary, when it was unhung, and laid
upon a large floe piece, where, by 8 p.m., owing to the activity of Mr. Ford, the
carpenter, who is always ready to meet any emergency, it was repaired just as
the ice began again to be in motion ; but as the tackles were hooked, it was run
up to the davits without further damage. We were now setting fast upon
another large piece of a broken floe, grounded in nine fathoms upon the debris,
formed at the mouth of a large river. Feeling confidcn*t that should we be
caught between this and what we were fast to, the ship must inevitably go to
pieces, and yet being aware that to cast off would certainly send us on
the beach, from which we were never distant eighty yards, upon which
the smaller ire was hurled as it came in contact with these grounded
masses, I sent John Kerr, (gunner's mate,) under very difficult circum-
stances, to endeavour to reach it, and effect its destruction by blasting. He
could not, however, find a sufficient space of water to sink the charge, but
remarking a large cavity upon the sea face of the floe, he fired it there, which
so far succeeded that it slightly fractured it in three places, which at the
moment was scarcely observable from the heavy pressure it was sustaining. By
this time the vessel was within a few feet of it, every one was on deck in anxious
suspense, awaiting what was apparently the crisis of our fate. Most fortunately
the atempost took it so fairly that the pressure was fore and aft, bringing the
whole strength of the ship to bear a heavy grind which shook every mast and
caused beams and decks to complain, as she trembled to the violence of the
shock, plainly indicated that the struggle would be but of short duration. At
this moment the stream cable was carried away, and several anchors drew ;
thinking that we had now sufficiently risked the vessel, orders were given to let
go all the wnrps, and with that order I had made up my mind that in a few
minutes she would be on the lieach, but as it was sloping conceived she might
still prove an asylum for the winter and possibly be again got afloat, whilst,
should she be crushed between these large grounded pieces she must inevitably
ffo down in ten fathoms, which would be certain destruction tc all ; but before
the orders could be obeyed a merciful providence interposed, causing the ire,

I I:

Which had beeil"|)teVJoB8ly Weakiened to sepairMre into three 'piedes, and it ftoate<l
onward with the i^ass, our stem still tightly jammed against but now protected
by it ; the vessel which had been thrown over fifteen degrees and risen bodily
one foot eight inches, now righted and settled in the water, the only damage
sustained were several sheets of copper ripped off and rolled up like a sheet of
paper, but not a fastening had given way, or does any leakage indicate the
slightest defect. By midnight the ice was stationary and everything quieti
which continued UAtil the 10th September ; indeed from the temperature having
fallen to 16° with all appetlranoe m the setting in of the winter, I considered our
further progress stopped until next year. The crew were employed collecting
ballast (of which they obtained fifty-five tons) and other arrangements making
fbr such an event; shooting and other parties made daily excursions inland, in
which rambles an exceedingly old Esquimaux encampment was met with, and A
most interesting discovery of a range of hills composed of one entire mass of
wood in every stage, from a petrifaction to a log fit for firewood, many large
trees were amongst it, but in endeavouring to exhume them they were found
too much decayed to stwid removal, the largest piece that we have been able to
bring away being three feet ten inches in girth and seven in length. These were
found by Messrs. Saiusbury and Piers at an elevation of three hundred feet
above the beach (in latitude 74° 27' N., longitude 122° 32' 15" W.) which is
strewed with chips and small bits of wood, as are the water courses and ravines
as &r as any person has walked inland, evidently washed down by the thaW
from these ugneous hills. The country has fine vuleys well covered with verdure
and at some period of the year must be frequented by large herds of animals,
as th? heads of musk oxen and the well picked carcases of deer are everywhere
met with, many quite fresh; two large wolves were disturbed in the act of
finishing a fawn which they had just kiUed, but only two musk oxen were seen,*
besides a few hares and ptarmigan, shot by our parties. To-day the temperature'
from a change of wind to the southward ix)se to 39°, accompanied by ram which
had the effect of loosening the ice, that the main pack separated from the shore
about half a mile from the ship, opening a Jane of water about sixteen miles to
the eastward, varying in breadth from fifty to two hundred yards, which how-
ever did not promise any release to the vessel Until, 1 1 .50 p.m., (while the officer
of the watch and quarter master were examining the tide pole fixed on the
beach, through a hole cut in the ice, about forty yards from the shore, which
puzzled them both, to find that they could not keep the gauge erect, as it
slipped from their hands while endeavouring to do so,) it noiselessly opened
and drifted towards the pack, which it was impossible to avoid, and were carried
to the N.£. a knot pv hour at the distance of half a mile from the shore, in
soundings from 107 to 134 fathoms. All methods by warps and saws to
extricate the vessel from her perilous position proving abortive, havi..j, masses
of ice firmly frozen to her bottom, recourse was had to gunpowder, which fortu-
nately effected her release by the expenditure of 150 pounds, in charges from
three to twenty-six pounds, according to the distance from the vessel, which by
any other means could not have been achieved, and saved us from being set.
against the thick grounded ice which was resting upon Point Colquhoun (certain
destruction), into which we should have been hurried by five minutes' longer
detention, having barely time to make sail and shoot the vessel, without rud(fcr,
clear of the piece we had been so long frozen to, into the water, cutting the
hawsers, which cahted us just as it entered the solid mass, upon the weather
edge of which we twice grazed as we worked into the land — when at 7 p.m. of
the 11th we again secured to a large grounded floe seventy yards from it in ten
fathoms. At 10 p.m. our position was hazarded by a portion of the main pack,
which had extended itself over the open water, coming in violent collision with
the comer of our floe, turning it partially round, while the smaller ice pressed
with so much strain upon the ship that the anchors began to draw and hawsers
carry away ; the stream chain luckily held until the pressure ceased by the
pack giving way, and our being pushed a few fathoms nearer the shore — At
2.50 A.M. of the 13th a lane of water opened about sixty yards from the vessel,
and towards noon a rise in the temperature to 43°, with heavy rain, created
hopes of liberation — an object of the utmost importance not only with respect
to the views with which the expedition was fitted out, but for the safety of the
ship, at present in a most exposed position, being upon the eastern side of a
large bay, open to thfe whole pressure of the polar pack, and surrounded with

auusee of ice sixteen aqd eighteen feet thick, whUe tte funded floes are from
forty to sixty-seven in depu. To ronove these impediments, or at all events
endeavour the formation of a dock, blasting ^as had recourse to. with charges
from sixteen to sixty-Ave pounds ; these made little impression except neai the
explosion, thereforea six and twenty gallon rum cask, containing 255 pounds
was now sunk five fathoms. Amongst these lar^e masses at thirty yards
from the vessel its effect was most condusive, shivering them to atoms, rending
that to which we were attached, and was sixty-seven ! feet thick on the outer
and thirty-five on its inshore edge asundo-, without the concussion being very
much felt on board. All hands were employed in j96ating the loose ice into
the water, having vainly attempted to force the ship through aided by a
strong wbd and a nine-inch hawser brought to the patent capstan. Such
resistance from merely this sludge is incredible, which work was contmued until
the afternoon of the 14th, when all was drifted away, leaving a snug harbour
forty yards in width, flanked by heavy grounded floes, forming an excellent

ftrotection. The rudder was now hung in anticipation of a start upon the fol-
owing morning ; but at 11 p.m. the wind freshened fix>m the W.N. W., bringing
the whole pack down upon this coast,; filling our little harbour with loose and
small ice, its entrance being too narrow to admit the large pieces ; an enormous
floe, however, carried away one of our flanks, but without disturbing the
vessel in the slightest. — At daylight on the morning of the 15th, these
expectations were sadly blighted, it blowing hard from W.N.W., with sleet
and snow; nor was a drop of water to be observed in any direction, and
the ice apparently as firmly fixed as in the depth of winter, the rudder was
was again unhung, which, with the thermometer at 14°, scarcely afforded any
probability of its being re-shipped this season. In the course of the forenoon,
Messrs. Court ( second master) and Newton (ice mate) were sent to examine
the coast and state of the ice to the eastward of Point Colquhoun, distant about
four miles ; their report was such as to confirm the opinion previously enter-
tflJnfKi, with this consolation, that the position which we occupied was better
*b :/ they had seen, as the ice to the eastward was much larger and more
H,« = v: than that we were encompassed by. The soil on this coast is composed
<-'' ,, vei and limestone, and in the vallies near the beach the quantity and rich-
ness of the moss is quite surprising : but on reaching the first range of hills,
rtbout a mile distant, a more sterile landscape never met the eye ; the whole
country appears nothing but one mass of limestone, without the slightest vege-
tation. The traces of animals, so numerous fifteen miles frirther west, are
nowhere in this barren ground to be met with. — On the 17th, the westerly wind
ceased, and was succeeded by one from the eastward, with a rise of temperature
from 1 1° to 21°, which by daylight of the 19th had increased to 32°, with water
extending along the coast three miles in width. We immediately cast off, and
at 7 A.M. rounded the point, from whence the land falls back E.S.E. Our pro-
gress was slow from many causes ; the copper being torn, and projecting from
four to twelve inches from the bottom, light winds, and an ice-encumbered sea ;
so that at 3 p.m. our further advance was arrested by the pack touching the
land, and extending with unbroken line to the northward as far as the eye could
reach. Our day's work did not exceed fifteen miles, when we were compelled
to make fast to the land ice, which along the whole of this coast is of the most
massive and terrific dimensions I have ever witnessed. There was little selection
of berth on a coast line nearly straight, but a slight indentation, protected east
and west by two large pieces of a broken floe, thirty feet above the water, gave
hopes of some shelter, when, at 6 p.m., the water and loose ice, which was before
perfectly still, suddenly rushed forward at the rate of two knots an hour, and
striking against the vessel, forced her from her anchors with such violence that
she was driven astern upon a hard point of the floe, which rose her twelve inches,
but fortunately held until the rush was over, which swept away our eastern
bulwark, but did no ot'ier damage. We then warped to the western side of the
floe, where a small space was blasted for the bow, in which we quietly remained
during the night. — At daylight of the 20th, finding the ice loose and drifting,
though a perfect calm, a mile and a half an hour to the eastward, cast off, and,
laying hold of a large floe piece, was dragged along close by the grounded
ice, which with some difficulty was avoided by shifting round the floe as it
canted towards it. At noon, having a light air from the westward, made sail,
but soon had reason to regret it, as it shortly failed, andj the ice flllintr the land

water, it gradually forced the vessel ipto the pack, which hitherto we have been
80 anxious and careful to avoid. As the only hope of navigating ^his sea
consists in keeping close to the shore, it now became evident that every exertion
must be made by warping to regain the land, which, under the circumstances
of the ice being in motion, with much that was small and loose filling up
the intervals between the larger pieces, which allowed a secure footing for
the men, was difficult, laborious, and anxious in the extreme, as, with every
precaution they fre<}uently fell in. After seven hours' incessant work, we
succeeded, as the mght closed, in reaching a huge and solid floe that had
just been upturned : three of its sides, being twenty-flve feet perpendicular,
grounded in twenty-nine fathoms on the outer edge, and having ten and »
half upon the inner one. around which was scattered much debris, part of
its original self, that 'd crumbled fVom the pressure against a cfiif, up
which It had been forcc.l full seventy feet, and where a large mass was stiu
remaining, about a mile to the westward of a cape (Austin) four hundred feet
in height, — which is stratified and of the same description as Neloon's Head,— •
where we secured for the night. — At daylight of the 21st, a thick fog with hail
permitted a very circumscribed view, but as the ice appeared loose in the direc-
tion of the Cape, at 5 a.m. started, and grazing round it within fifteen yards,
found ourselves in a larse bay entirely covered with ice, formed by another cape
three miles S.E., compelling us at 6.30 a.m. to make fast immediately beneath
the cliff, whose summit nearly plumbing the hatchwa^ s rendered our position
very unsafe, many fragments appearing so loose from the action of frost, and
watcfr that a slight concussion would have brought them down. At 1 1 a.m.
the ice eased a little from the land, when we again endeavcur'^d to force towards
the S.E., aided by a westerly wind and warping, but in the ai^<;rnoi>a the fog
became so dense with an easterly breeze that we made fast to the land floe, in
which a small dock was formed with the assistance of a little powder, about
a mile from our forenoon's position, remaining until the morning of the 22nd.,
when a little progress was made toward j the S.E., our operations by warping
beinp; brought to a termination at 1 p.m., having reached the Cape (Crozier)
ufon the south eastern side of which the ice was resting : therefore securing to
a ridge twenty feet in height lying at its base, I proceeded with Mr. Court
to its summit for the purpose of examining the coast lin<:: towards the S.E.: a
deep bay extending tnirty miles in that direction, filled with ice, which was
commencing to move bodily to the westward, and of a much less formidable a
character to that we had been subjected to, while what was lying along the
shore was small and widely detached, well repaid the toil of ascent. Indeed
since rounding Cape Austin it has lost much of its terrible aspect, which led to
the inference that we were fairly in Barrow Straits, and that the main polar
pack takes a direct line from the last mentioned cape to the E.N.E., and that
which fills these bays and is carried down Barrow Straits, is the comparatively
small ice which drifts from its southern edge, as we have invariably remarked
that there is a decidedly eastern current, which impels the enormous polar floes
on that course, while the lighter, influenced by wind, is oftentimes setting in an
opposite direction. This Cape (Crosier) is two hundred and fifl;, feet perpen-
dicular, presenting amongst its debris many intersesting geological specimens.
It is composed of lime and sandstone, having fcssiliferous shells imbedded ; also
pieces of coal and petrifactions of wood, identical with what has been met with
upon other parts oi this large island, and upon the " Princess Royal" Isles. — At
3.30 A.M. of^ the 23d, although not daylight, open water was ascertained to be
at hand from the dark appearance of ^.le horizon to seaward; the vessel was
cast off, and standing in tnat direction found we had not been deceived. The
wind during the forenoon coming from the westward enabled our running close
along the shore, on which still rested a line of thin ice, rendering the entrance of
what appeared three good harbours inaccessible. The land was much less
rugged, having small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large valleys, well
calculated for the pasture lands of animals ; but no particle of driftwood could
be observed, which article has not been seen, (excepting the small chips near the
ligneous hills, since rounding point " Kellet " en the western shore. — At 5.30 p.m.
our course was nearly obstructed, from the ice K'sting upon a point about two
miles distant; the studding sails were taken 'n, but almost immediately
re-set as it gradually opened, allowing just su^<cient spacs for our passage
by topping up the lower booms, the shore shortly treuding more to the

:'m^

southward, increased our water, but snow and thick weather, with night coming
on, rendered the land, not two hundred yards distant, barely discernible. Most
anxious, howevei, at the close of the season, to embrace every opportunity of
getting to some place of security, our course was continued with easy canvas,
when under other circumstances we should have most assuredly secured for the
aljht, and at 7-30 p.m., with the lead going, went from 15 fathoms upon a mud
ha ^, i.u".'>ng only six feet under the bow, and at the distance of ten feet from
(he M*m only eighteen inches, while the stern was in five fathoms; the stream
ancnor and cable were laid out, which service was well pertbrmed by Messrs.
Wynuiatt, Sainsbury, and Court, it requiring four boats m consequence of the
freshening N.W. gale, and pieces of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it
reached the water, formed so thick a coating over its service, and offering such
resistance, that it was scarcely possible to ptdl through, — which, with clearing the
forehold and warrant officer's storerooms, and bringing all the weight abaft the
mizen mast, at 10 p.m. we were enabled to heave olf, and brought up with both
bowers in six fathoms and a half. The remainder of the night was occupied in
re-stowing the holds, weighing the stream anchor, &c., so that at daylight of the 24th
we were in perfect readine&s to move. On a view of our pc jition, we found that we
were on the N.W. side of the large bay, whose eastern limit bore N.E. eight miles,
which we subsequently found formed the western point of Banks's Land, and
running to the S.S.W. about seven, which was rapidly filling up with ice flowing
in before a fresh gale from the Polar Sea ; still wishing to see if any jiossibility
remained of getting down Barrow Strait, wc weighed and stood as far as the
ice would allow to the N.E., when observing from the crow's nest no water in
that direction, J determined to make this our winter quarters; and having
remarked upon the south side of the bank, on which we had grounded, a well-
protected bay, Mr. Court was despatched to sound it, and shortly making the
signal that there was suflScient water, we bore up, and at 7.45 a.m , anchored in 4 4
fathoms, and that night were firmly frozen in what has since proved a most safe
and excellent harbour, — which, in grateful remembrance of the many perils that
we had (during the passage of that terrible Polar Sea) escaped, in reaching, have
named it the Bay of Mercy, thus finally terminating this short season's
operations, being actually only five days under weigh. Preparation? were now
made for bousing in, and everything completed except hauling over the cloth,
by October 1st, which was not done, that the daylight should be enjoyed
as long as possible and a saving in light effected. On that day, as a pre-
cautionary measure, the crew were placed upon two-thirds allowance of all
species of provisions. Upon the 4th Mr. Court was sent with a travelling

f)arty to connect our position with that visited by Lieutenant Crtsswcil in May
ast, from which we were only distant eighteen niilcs. On the 7th he returned,
which service completed the search around the entire coast line of this island.
He reported open water a few miles from the shore (which, gradually extending,
reached the cliff's of Banks's Land) upon the 6th, as with two men he Avas
examining a few miles to the south- eastward of his tent, that detached thi
heavy grounded land ice from their base, drifting the whole party off shore to the
N.W. Fortunately, being unencumbered with the sledge, they succeeded with
difficulty and by much agility, jumping from piece to piece, in regaining the
shore, and that evening no ice could be remarked in the strait, the whole lieing
set in the Polar Sea. On the lOih, Mr. Sainsbury, mate, with a travelling party,
went to examine an inlet which appeared to run some distance to the S.W. from
the south side of the bay, but upon the following day returned, finding it
extended only twelve miles, the water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a
large marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animals and wild fowl, may be
considered as a favourite resort during the summer. As there appeared much

fame in the vicinity, and the weather continuing mild, shooting perties under
(ieutenant Cresswell, Messrs. Wynniatt, Court, and Piers, ai d the marines
under Serjeant Woon, were established in difiorent directions between the '4th
and 23d, so that with what was killed from the ship our supply of fresh pro-
visions on the commencement of the winter consisted of nine deer, fifty-three
hares, and forty-four ptarmigan, all in fine condition, the former having from
two to three inches fat.

The weather during the winter has been much more boisterous, but in each
month several degrees more mild than was experienced in the Prince ol Wales'
Strait, nearly a degree and a half further south, last year, which in conjunction

with the animalH remaining in numbers in this locality the entire winter, must I
auppose be taken as a proof of its mildness, although laying exposed to the
N. W . winds, direct from the Polar Sea, which, upon our first l^ing frozen in, led
to the anticipation of having to encounter a very severe season. In consequence
of oui' favoured position, the crew were enabled to ramble over the hills almost
dailv, in quest of game, and their exertions happil}' mmT^lipd u fivsh meal of
venison tlu^e times a fortnight, with the exception oi >out three weeks in
January, when it was too daix for shooting. The small game, such as ptarmi-
gan and hares, being scarce, were allowed to be retained by the sportsmen as
private property ; this healthy and exhilirating exerciss kept us all well and in
excellent sp'rits during another tedious winter, so that on ihe 1st of April we
had upwards of a thousand powids of venison hanging at the yard arms. On
wea.ing so fair an aspect, and being desiroiis of visitine Winter Harbour, Mel-
ville Island, with the hope of meeting an officer with whom arrangements
might be made in the event of any accident occurring which would render it
necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded on the 11th with Mr. Court (second
master) and a sledge party for that port, but in consequence of thick weather
coming on a few hours after leaving the vessel, and continuing unmtermittinffly
for several days, we did not reach until the 28th. Upon the 15th we observed a
very lofty cape bearing N.E. by £. thirty mile:., which I have called Queen
Victoria, in honour of F Most Gracious Majesty (the same which had been
remarked last autumn i om the high land near the ship ;) the land to the north-
east forms the bottom of Lyddon Gulf, while that upon its western side
stretched to the N.W. in oac unbroken mountain-line as far as the eye could
reach. At Winter Harbour we attained a set of sights for the purpose of test-
ing our chronometers, which were ascertained to be going exceedingly well ; and
having deposited a notice of our visit under the same cairn that Lieutenant
M'Chntock left one last year, u^n a large fragment of sandstone, bearing this
inscription, viz. : — " His Britannic Majesty's Snips ' Hecla' and ' Griper,' Com-
manders Parry and Lydu.)n, wintered m the adjacent harbour during the winter
of 1819-20. — A .Fisher, sculpsit." At 6 p.m. commenced our return, travelling
upon flat ice nearly the entire way, accomphshii^p in ten days what occupied
eighteen upon the outward trip, and reached the ship upon the 9th of May,
where I had the gratification of^ receiving the most satisfactory reports concern-
ing our sanitary condition, and likewise that the supply of venison continued
abundant, having twenty head of deer on board ; in consequence, the ration of
venison was increased to a pound and a half thrice a week, as the crew were at
hard work cleaning the holds, collecting and bringing off ballast ; the latter e
very laborious occupation, from the large space they had to search over in pick-
ing up a sufficiency of stone to complete one hundred tons, which was not
accomplished until the 25th, after which we commenced watering, obtaining it
from a lake about a mile from the ship, by boring through seven feet ten incnes
of ice, and cutting a reservoir to receive it, this forming a species of artesian well,
which gave a bountiful supply, enabling the water to be completed by the 12th
of June, previous to the commencement of the thaw, which was a great advantage
tothecrewas it kept themdry footed. Aboutthistime flocks of wildfowl, consisting
of swans, geese, and all descriptions of ducks, began to arrive, but finding no water,
merely took a flight round the N.W. extreme of the land, and returned to
the southward, from which it would appear that the season is late ; indeed, the
land is as much covered with snow as m the depth of winter, nor wa»r.it until
the 25th of the month that any alteration took place, when small streams com-
menced trickling down the sunny slopes of the ravines, and little ponds formed
upon the ice. — On the 30th we had an entire day of heavy snow, with one of
tne most severe northerly gales that I ever witnessed at so advanced a period of
the season ; and upon the 1st July found that the ice had increased its thick-
ness four inches during the last month, being seven feet two inches, a most
imusual circumstance, as both at Port Leopold and in the Prince of Wales'
Strait we fovmd a very considerable decrease during the mouth of June, the
temperature likewise was very low, showing an average of 3lA°. The appear-
ance of the crew at their monthly inspection elicited a more unfavourable report
from the surgeon than I have hitherto received, evident symptoms of debility

i:i.. _i! iU_

. _ J :j_j -u..<.:

aiUUUgsi luc gciiciniitv ui liiciii, auu siAkccii iiaviii{j u ucuiucu suuiuuiiv Lciiucucjr,

plainly the effect of the late heavy labour in ballasting and watering ; but as aH
out work is now on board, their gradual return to perfect health may be antici-

pkikA WklitNlt ericiinAilmcg ttie tick list.— t}n th^ 8ib July Sergeant Woon^ of
the Marines, while in pursuit of a wounded deer, unexpectedly met a couple of
musk bulls, which he succiwded in killing, evincing the most soldierlike coolness
and intrepidity during the entire transaction. Having expended his ammunition
as ohe or the wounded and infuriated monsters rushed towards him, he fired his
worm when at a few yards, but without much effect, as he continued his advance,
evidently, however, weak from loss of blood, till he had reached within six feet,
when, putting his head to the ground previous to his final rush, the sergeant,
as his last resource, fired his iron ramrod, which, entering behind the left shoulder,
passed through the heart and out at tie right flank, dropping him dead ut his
net. They are fine animals, whose gross weight is 1,330 lunds, and yield,
after deducting offal Hnd hunters' perquisites, 650 poun of excellent beef,
which providential supply is most opportune, as our reindeer were expended last
week. Two Esquimaux huts upon a small islet in the centre of the bay, and the
site of an encampment on a peaked hill on the western shore of the mainland,
are the -only indications we have met with of that extraordinary and hardy people
haVIng at some period long past inhabited this coast ; we have now discovered
traces of them upon all sides of this island, but where are they gone, for certainly
there is not one up<m it at present, or why should they have quitted an island
so abounding throughout the entire year with game, except, as the Esquimaux
interpreter observes, there may be a great paucity of seals, without which luscious
food 'hey cannot exist, and this may be tne reason, as we have seen very few.

During the month of July the little thaw which a temperature falling to 31"

every night, and rising only to .39° and 40° in the day could effect, has not been

much ; but the water draining from the land rotted the ice round the entire bay

and detached it from 100 to 300 yards from the shore, so that it has power to

move# and only requires open water in the offing to allow of its going out, which

joyful event we entertained hopes of realizing, as upon the 10th of August some

lanes of water were observed to seaward, and along the cliffs of Banks's Land

there was a clear space of six miles in width, extending . along them as far

as the eye could reach from the N.W. hills, at an elevation of 1,000 feet,

and on the 12th the wind, which had been sometime from the northward,

veered to the south, which had the effect of separating the sea ice from

that of the bay entirely across the entrance, but, shortly shifting to the

north, it closed again and never after moved. On the 20th the temperature

fell to 27°, when the entire bay was completely frozen over, and on the 27th

to 19°, so that the whole aspect was cheerless in the extreme, the young ice

being two and a half inches thick, so that the whole bay may be perambulated;

indeed, the summer was fairly gone, for the uplands are all snow-covered, the

; wild fowl all departed, and the flowers which gave cheerful variety to this bleak

land are all '-.ithered ; the very season may be considered as one long sunless

day, as sinc-e the latter part of Maj' that luminary has been scarcely visible, or

his influence felt upon those icy masses which block Barrow Strait entirely

across, nor do I imttgine that the Polar Sea has broken up this season, as not a

drop of water has been seen in that direction. During July and the early part

of August the crew were daily employed gathering sorrel, of which there was a

great quantity upon the hills in this vicinity, and, eaten as a salad with vinegar,

or boiled, when it resembled spinach, was round a most admirable antiscorbutic

and a. great benefit to all, being exceedingly relished; but that hardy and

miserable herbage could not withstand this rigorous sununer beyond the 15th

of the month. For several days the ice had oeen perfectly stationary and no

water visible in any direction, tfeat along the cliffs of Banks's Land being frozen,

so that I felt assured that the winter had fairly set in, and all hopes of any

release this year totally annihilated, the young ice being five inches thick.

Having previously determined what course I should adopt under circumstances

thus unfavourable, upon the 8th September I announced my intentions to the

crew, of sending half of them to England next April, with all the officers not in

charge of stores, via Baffin's Bay (taking the boat from Cnpe Spencer), and the

Mackenzie, detaining the remainder with the hope of e:r.tricating the vessel

during the summer of 1863, or, failing that, to proceed with sledges in 1854 by

Port Leopold, our pro\nsions admitting of no other arrangement, although we

had already been a twelvemonth unon two-thirds allowance, it was necessary to

make preparations for meeting eighteen months more, a very severe deprivation

and constitutional test, but one which the service we are employed upon calls

ii :

for ; the vessel being as sound as the day she entered the ice, it would therefore
be discreditable to desert her in 185i), when a favourable jeason would run her
through the Straits, a>;d admit of reaching England in safety, where the sue*
cessfiu achievement of the long-sought-for and almost hopeless discovery of the
North- West Passage would l)e received with a satisfaction that will amply
compensate for the sacrifices made, and hardships endured in its most trying
and tedious accomplishment. This statement was well received, and its execution
will, I hope, be carried out without dirflculty. — On the 1 7th the wind shifted to
the S.S.E., and blew hard, which a few days earlier might have been attended
with ft vourablc results ; but now it had no effect, the icc being eight inches
thick was too finn to be moved; the sails were consequently unbent, and
preparations commenced for housing in. — September 24th, this is the anniversary
of our arrival ; the contrast is very remarkable : we entered the bay with the
temperature at 33 and not a particle of icc in it; to-day the thermometer
stands at 2 with ice which has never moved, and every indication of a very
severe winter. Upon the 25th October closed the hatchways and hoiued the
vessel over, it becoming damp and cold between decks, the vapour funnels, of
which there are five, giving u sufficient ventilation ; those over the hatchways
being never closed, carry off all impurities, so that we enjoy a clear whole-
some atmosphere below; this has very much contributed to the excellent
S reservation of our health, and the 26th being the second anniversary of our
iscovery of the " Pas .age " and the last that we should all be together, the
occasion was celebrated by a small additional allowance of provisions and an
extra glass o*' o^-5> which had the effect of putting all iu high spirits, so that
the evening was passed most jovially in singing and dancing. — On November
the 8th completed the banking up and other outside work, finally terminating
our winter arrangements on the 1 Hth by covering the upper deck with eighteen
inches of snow. The dcev for the last few days have been coming from the
southward to their winter quarters amongst the ravines and sand hills ; ninety
have been met with at one time and forty at another, but so very wild that few
have been shot. Our two seasons' experience show that these animals do not
migrate to the south, us is generally supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of the
climate, and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwarf willow, from ofl'
which they break the snow with their feet, which tapping can be heard at a con-
siderable distance when the weather is calm, and frequently leads to their
discovery. The hares and ptarmigan have also descended from the high ground
to the sea ridges, so that a supply of game has been kept up during the winter,
which has enabled a fresh meal to be issued twice weekly, and the usual
Christmas festivities to pass off with the greatest cheerfulness. As it was to be
our last, the crew were determined to make it memorable, and their exertions
were completely successful: each mess was gaily illuminated, and decorated
with original paintings by our lower-deck artists, exhibiting the ship in her
perilous positions during our transit of the Polar Seu, and divers other subjects ;
but the grand featmes of the day were the enormous plum puddings, some
weighing six and twenty pounds, haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup
made otthe same, with ptarmigan and sea pies. Such dainties in such profusion
I should imagine never before graced a ship's lower-deck. Any stranger to have
witnessed this sc«.nc could but faintly imagine that he saw a crew which had
{.assed upwards of two years in these dreary regions, and three entirely upon
their own resources, enjoying such excellent health, so joyful, so happy ; indeed,
such a mirthful assemblage under any circumstances would be most gratifying
to any officer ; but in this lonely situation I could not but feel deeply impressed
8s I contemplaied the gay and plenteous sight with the many and great mercies
• • hich a kind and beneficent Providence had extended towards us, to whom alone
ie thelicartfelt praises and thanksgivmgs of all for the greatblessings which we
. ' ait'nerto experienced in positions the most desolate which can be conceived.
M . ti 1st. — The most dreary and dark time is now passed, and severe and trying
"f 'ii ^ hem. The cold of the last two months was excessive, January showing
a, L>c.'ii 01 — 44^, being 17° below the corresponding period last year, and one
A' V the temperature fell to — 65°, and for twenty-four hours actually averaged
— 62°. I should have doubted the correctness of the thermometer (as no former
experience shows so low a register) had it not been well tested the two preceding
winters, when it only fell to — .00° ; but, independent of the glass, the feelings
gave unmistakeable evidence of the extreme keenness of the weather, as for one

entire week the temperature never rose above — 40°, the wind being about S.S.W,,
from which quarter during both winters we have invariably felt the greatest cold ;
I therefore imagine that in the interior the land must he very lofty, as when
the wind veers to the north, which i» directly off the Polar Sea, the glass rises,
showing the highest temperature when it is easterly. These low temperatures
have caused nuich moisture between decks, and from not being able to hUow a
sufficiency of firing to counteract the effect of this damp atmosphere, it has been
materially felt by the crew ; the sick list at one period consequently increased to
nineteen, five being cases of scurvy and the same of dropsy, but now happily
reduced to ten, and the surgeon's report upon the scurvy of the crew today
as to their general state and condition is as favourable as I could, under
all circumstances, htivc anticipated. Durine the last month we have been
employed gravelling a distance of 800 y&rda towards the sea ice, with the
hope of its weakening it in the event of our being able to move when the seasou
for navigation arrives. Upon the 3rd, told the men off that were to proceed to
Englann next month viA Mackenzie and Baffin's Bay. They appeared extremely
well satisfied with the arnmgement, as I explained to them my object was to
send home all who had suffered the most from the severity of the climate, and
to which another year might prove exceedingly trying, as well as to retain the
most effective men in the event of being detained another winter. On the 15th
the travellers went upon full allowance of provisions, which I have little doubt
will, before they are required to start, get them in good condition. — 2l8t. The
weather has been beautiful during the last week; th^ temperature, which, until
the l6th, continued almost daily to fall to —.'56°, the 17tn rose to —27°; the
following day to - 14° ; and on the i9th to +."J°, which sudden and deliehtful
change, after the excessive cold of the last three months, is most grateful. The
invalids are rapidly improving, the majority taking a daily airing of from two to
three hours. The temperature at noon to-day exposed to the sun rose to +40*,
80 that the extreme severity of the winter is over ; in fact, to the present time,
5th April, the temperature daily mounts in the shade above zero, which,
according to past experience, is exceedingly mild, and may be considered indi-
cative of an early break-up of the ice. God grant such may be the case ! On
the 1 5th it is my intention to start the parties destined to make their way to
England ; and from our good sanitary condition I feel but little doubt but all
will safely arrive. A fatigue party, under the con:r.iand of Mr. Court (second
master), will accompany Lieutenant Haswcll for a few day i, while John Calder
(captain of the forecastle), a trusty and zealous petty officer, will proceed with
Lieutenant Cressweli as far as the Princess Royal Islands, and from the dep6t
there will return with as many cases of potatoes and as much didcolate as can
be brought on the sledge, which extra supply will give un ample allowance of
those excellent articles in the event of being detained here during the ensuing
winter. To this period we have not lost an individual of our crew, either by
accident or disease ; the ofMcers particularly have enjoyed an immunity from
sickness whicli is surprising, with the exception of Mr. Sainsbury (mate), who,
since the wiiiter of 1850, has suffered with a pulmonary complaint that has
entirely p-.evciited his piviticipating in tlic arduous duties of the travelling
parties, or in the more exciting but not less laborious occupation of hunting over
this rugged and severe country; and Mr. Payne (clerk in charge), who had been
a great invalid from rheumatism until this last winter, M'hen he has made a most
rapi<l and wonderful recovery, and ut present is in the enjoyment of more robust
health than when he quitted England. I can attribute our excellent salutary
stiitc to the causes previously alluded to in this narrative, in conjunction with
the bountiful supply of game which a merciful Providence has aided us with,
and has so materially added to our otherwise scanty rations, as well as the excel-
lence of all species of our provisions, which are certainly of the best description
I ever met with, more particularly the superior quality of the lime juice, which,
as an anti-scorbutic, has proved most inestimable, witli the preserved meats
supplied by Messrs. Gamble, which for weight, exemption from bone, and
excellence, rank in the very highest scale, and that invaluable vegetable, the
preserved potato, manui'actured by Edwards. — Sir, I have nothing more to add
to tins narrative, except to state that I forward a list of game killed, and a
monthly mean of the meteorological journal, which has been registered every
alternate hour since leaving England by the respective officers of the watches,
and carefully arranged and tabulated by Mr. Court (second master), which

G 3

i;! '

eomplet« tablm, I hope, with other raterMtng obaemitfana, to b* «iiMbled to
carry safely home in the ship.

And having particulariied the oiiiccrK in the various Rurviccn they have been
employed upon, I cannot conclude without cxpreflRing the extreme mtisfaction
that the crew have given mo upon nil occaiioiiM : when, in the perilous paaitage
of the Polar >Se», activity, energy, and aniuouH duty were required, an well a«
daring this long period of inactivity, thcv have been characterised by cheerful-
ness, propriety, and good conduct, which nilly entitle them to the most tavourable
consioeration of their Lordships. w

I haw, &0. 'A

dth April 1889. RoBRRT M'Clure, Commander.'-*'

Bay of Mercy, Baring's Island. <t:

Latitude 74° & .30" N. ; Longitude 118" 1.V 0" W. ifc

Table showing the Mkan Huoht of Babomrkb, with the Temperatiu^ of the Air on
board H.M.S. " Investigator," from August 1850 to March t8AS.

«'— !r-

Buromtttr.

Temperatnre nf Air.

Mean

iMMdt l<^-i--

I Yw

anil
- Month.

Force of
WinA

Vmriy Abe»ract

W 1

'.<.:.-«v

■1

.r-T^ ..:;.,-

_ .r'T'

1
1

. rr ._

1850.

Barometer.

Anpift • -

.100«O

39tt»0

»•■ 751

+ 50

+ 37

+a«-5

s-s

Hax.,.10'6S0i Mm.,19-1M|

Stpiember

-«so

•470

809

+ 4(

-1

+ 30-3

.16

Mean, 39-838.

OctolMiT •

-l«u

•.180

-861

+ 14

-33

+ 0-3

.'0

Air.

NoT«mW

•870

ISO

-7.19

+ 7

-S3

-10-3

.Max., +5; Min., —40;

Ijccciuwr ■

»«0

-480

•978

-4

-40

-33-4

2'.1

Mean, -4-66.

lasL

January •

S70

-400

-885

-15

-51

-33-5

Fabroary

-6S0

-080

-958

-9

-61

-37-7

llarometer.

Uareh-

■7S0

-338

'94«

-5

-51

-38-8

Maximum • ,10' 760

X--- ■

-610

'4111

.'10- 037

+ .<«8

-.13

-4'8

■11

Minimum • 29 '030

-«oo

SCO

-0»8

>47

-5

+ 18'9

.J.J

Mean - 19-934

Jani>

•150

'470

il9-837

+ 63

+ 37

+ .16' 1

.1-5

Air.
Maximum - ftl'O
.Minimum —51-0
Mean - +l'«8

July - - -
Angutl -

090
'400

•450

'756
-865

+ 53
+ 51

+ .13
+ 31

+ .17-5
+ 37'6

3'(l
2'K

Hcplmbcr •

-370

'450

'•76

+ 43

+ 1

+ 24-6

.'ll

October

-100

SCO

'877

+ 1«

-33

+ 3-3

1-9

NoTember •

■750

•0.10

,T(»'097

+ 10

-40

-15-3

1-8

December

•810

'490

'()4li

+ 11

-44

-30' 0

3-5

isax.

January

•«oo

-280

19-841

+ 8

-61

-27'.1

.1-4

February

srooo

-070

-777

-1

-47

-35-8

3-1

Rammeter.

March •

aruoo

-410

30-083

+ 5

-63

-38-4

Maxiwnm - 31 -000

April r

SO' 430

-sao

164

+ 31

-38

— 1*4

Minimum • 3|-»70

May ■ -

'1150

-800

19-987

+ .17

-25

+ 10 i

3^«

Alcan - 29' 906

June •

100

-480

-758

+ 51

+ 11

+ 31' 5

.11

Air.

July

'000

•370

'749

+ 53

+ 30

+ 30-7

2'9

Augnit

'170

•400

-816

+ 53

+ 19

+ .13-3

Maximum - +53
Minimum - —53
Miim - +0'05

SeiKember

100

•070

■785

+ 88

-4

+ 30*1

8' 6

October -

'.'100

•440

-986

+ 16

-3.1

-6-6

3'3

NoTember

'880

•460

-978

+ 9

-43

-16-5

3^1

December

-«70

a8^970

-944

-4

-48

-38' 1

3^7

18SS.

llarometer.

January -

•JO' lao

S9I80

19*748

-16

-63

-43' 87

4 05

Mux., .10' 72 i Min.. 2!l- 180)

February

■»8()

-400

30-085

-13

-57

-38'50

2-50

Mean, 39-960.

Slaroh -

•72n

-.540

-(148

♦•17

-!,»

-25-4

3-30

•Vir.

Max., +1?! Min., -65i

Mean, -35' 93.

•

lt()BERT M'CM'Kl';, Commander.

Her Majesty's Ship "Investigator.
Game killed in the Arctic REOioMa

....

Number killed.

Averaffe Weight each.

Total Weight.

Ma»k On -

278 lb«. 1

I,n45 lb*.

Deer -

llu

'» „

7,716 ..

Han-K

. .

169

6 „ j

1,014 „

OrouM-

488

NflC weigbetl. 1

- -

Ihielu

- -

IBS

„ 1

—

' ,. ,

Oeeee -

—

Wolreii

—

Bears

•

Id head killed

1,005.

• fc. „ i * ' 1

■. ''1 IJl. ).-..-c ,

J f

i:nfi '*!*-':...■

No.H.

!l ilvtrjM ni tabfiaW:

Commander M'Clurk to Lieutenant Hmwbix.

A'^MUhitO ,TiroaO'W[ n

Her Majeaty'i Discovery Ship" Investigator,"
Prince of Wales' Strait, 2l8t October 1860.
Mkmoranuum.

Ab it is of the utmost importance both as regards the UHtioniil dignity, eqiiall}'
as a geographical subject, tnat it should be ascertained us far as it is possible,
whether the waters in which we rt present are communicate with those ot Barrow
Strait, or terminate in a bay, whicn, if the former, will decide the question of
a North-West Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; — conformably
with such a view it is my intention to proceed with Mr. Court (second master)
and a party of men upon this interesting service on Monday next, the 21st inst., or
as soon afler as I feel assured that the vessel will Ik: in security from the dangerous
influence which may be apprehended from the ensuing spring tides ; as, however,
it is not impossible that during my absence, in consequence either of a disruptioQ
in the ice or some unforeseen circumstances over whicn you may have no control,
that the vessel may be driven to the southward, and upon my return nowhere to
be seen.

It is, therefore, my direction that in the event of any such unhappy occur-
rence, that you exert yourself to the utmost to land at all hazards upon either
of the islands, as circumstances will re ider most fa\ ourabic, tbe third whalc'^boat
complete, and the stores as per margin. lu the
execution of a service whicn niav be attended
with some ditficidty, you will nppoint Lieutenant
Cresswell and Mr. Wynniatt (mate) to its super-
intendence, impressing upon those officers and
the men under their orders the paramount neces-
sity for their most strenuous enaeavours in carry-
ing this service into effect, as upon its being
executed will depend the existence of the absent

Earty. I feel assured that nothing further need
e urged to excite the active co-operation of all
concerned.

Should the above take place, you will upon
the breaking up of the ice in the ensuing
summer, use your utmost exertions to return to
these islands with the least possible delay, where
(if I find that you do not arrive by the middle of
August, I shall consider that you are disabled or
otherwise incapacitatedfiom carrying these orders
into effect, and shall most likely push to Port
Leopold) ample instructions will be left for your
future proceedings under a cairn to be erected on
the summit of the larj^e island.

As so little is known with respect to the
clearance of ice from thesi waters, it might so
happen that you may be unable to penetrate
durmg the whole of the navigable season as far
as these islands ; in the event of such a contin-
gency you will considc)' it your duty, when you
arrive at the conclusion that nil further perse-
verance is unavailing in endea\ouring to carry the
purport of these instructions into effect, to secure the vessel for the winter in
some harbour or bay, sheltered from the pressure of the heavy ice, so as to avoid
the severe iiippings that she would otherwise be subjected to ; the consequences
of which to a sliip already Aveakened by a winter in the pack are to be appre-
hended.

Finally, in the supposition that you do not return to these islands, or receive
any other directions, you will in the summer of 1852 endeavour to recross the
Polar Sea on ^our return to England commencing' vour homewRrd voyage
immediately the navigation will admit, so as to avoid if possible the having to
remain a third winter in the ice. You will communicate with Her Majest^s
ship " Plover," in Kotzebue Sound, and from thenrs proceed to tiie Sandwich

G4 ■ ■ .

Twelve Moiitbn' Prodiioni fur

aann inou.

»t « dally ■llowane* uf

Pvmmiciin

- lilb.

Soup

- Ipt.

Oatmeal or Flour t it'i «

- 41b.

Urcad - - • .-

- 1 ..

(.'ocoii . - -

- 1 01.

Tea - . -

- i..

Sugar

- Ii»

Hum

- iKlll-

Boat's Store: -

Tent (frame, with 4 pikes)

1 ill No.

FowlioK piece (pareuuioii dble

) 1 •.

Pereuuion cupit

a,ooo „

Shot, No. 1

- S.'iibv

l>o. Nn. -t •

- '.'5 „

Uulleta (preNent musuet)
Powder (fine)

iOO ill No.

- lOlbl.

Fuel (coid, apure ipari, (tc.)

.Mu»ket>

- tj ill No.

Hall cBririd(te

M.) rouiidn.

Cnp« (piTou«»ioiO

I.nco in Nil.

1 Ca\i of ht.'uiiK rum lor fuel.

Hiiffalu robes -

- a ill .No

Itai'Oim bioiikets

- -1 „

lllHokets (woollen)

" 7 „

('ariwt bootH

T paim.

Fiihermaii'a boota

7 ,.

Bok clotli clotbi'H

7 Ruiti.

Fiannel

- Ill) yd«.

Stocklags

- ^6 pairk.

Mita

- :lti ,.

Hoot h">-

- M ,.

WiO.h « .^» -

- 14 in No.

Twine

•J lbs.

Lead (nheet)

10 „

Fearnought

10 jrd«.

A«e»

- :i in Nu.

Green crape

10 yds.

Half bouts -

- 1 4 paint.

Shovel. -

- -J in No.

Nci'dlea, Nails of ai/er, Kishliooks niid I. inn.

) H

rifi

iNliiiuiH to recruit the ircw iiiul otliorwise riHt tlu- vt'HHtl, tVoin whciici' yon will
cutninunicutf ii dftuiled uccoiint of your proffi'dingM to tlie Sfcrctary of tin-
Adminilty. When you liiiVe miflicieutly nlrcslu'd tlu- men you will (tail for
iilling at Vulpuriiiso, reportinj^ your nrriviil to the romrnnuder-in*

KiUjIaml, ca - „ . , „ .,

Chief by letter, Khould hv not he at that jiluie

Itomiiir M'Ci.tiHK, ( 'oniruuiider.

No. y.

(.'omniiuidor M'Ci.i'UK to Ijeutenunt Hahwki.i,, Lieuteiumt (Jhk.hmwki.i., mid
Mr. WvNNiATT (Mate), the Odicers in charge of the travelling I'artieti
from Her MajeHty's Diseovery Shij) " Invest igatiir."

Uy Robert M'Clure, K-sq., Comniaiuler of Her Maje.st_y's I)i8e»)very
Ship " Investigator."

Will wK AS I consider that it will he fully carrying out the beneficent niten-

tiouH of Her Majesty^ Government, and in accordance witli the viewti of my

Lordi* roininisHioners of the Adiniruity, that parties from this ship should lie

ilespatcl'K'd (nltiiough such service may possihly render their rejoining her

douotful) to trace the southern shore of Marrow Strait, and the soutn-eust

coast of Prince Albert's Land, in iiopes of meeting some indication of the

missing Expedition under Sir John Franklin, the tenor of whose instructions, if

w.ii indeed he has been enabled to carry them into clfect, would lead to tlie sup-

' souXmiu" .hoi«. position that from ('ape Walker southward and westw.Tid would be the most

LUuuiwm crM.w,ii, pr„i,n|,le locality to glean some tidings of his hitherti .slerious fate -our

Mr. Wypni.it. (ni.u), position iKing particularly tiivouraole lor pioscciitnig t..is (iiity, tin reby to u

NoriiKMUrn niiorr. ccrtaiu cxtciit settling a point which has created much and deep solicitude

tuioM for wh pllrt^ apiougst all denominations ot our countrymen — 1 lay down a tew in.-<tructions

for the guidance of the respective Oliicers entrusted with this service, who will

take their route as per margin.

The primary object is most carefully to examine along the tide-line for any
Appearance of wreck, or wood of any description, wliii h might li ad to the sup-

Cosition that mechanical labour has been expended upon it; if there should not
c any name, or other distiiigiiishiiig mark by whicii it could be recognised as
l)elonging to one of Her Majesty's ships, you will take a sketch and its dimen-
sions (if too large to be brought on board), as, upon inspection, it may be found
to correspond with some of the fittings of the missing ships. Vou will likewise
search uuon the elevated ground a little above the beach, where j)arties would
be most likely to encamp, for any cairn, preserved meat cases, or other indica-
tiona of civilised man.

2nd. This land not having been previously explored, it is of much import-
ance thiit its geographical position should be as accurately established and
coast-line traced, as the urgent circunistai' .s under which you are acting will
admit of, bearing in mind that your outward course is not to be retarded upon
this account, as every mile in advance is in furtherance of the object of your
search, and paramount to all other considerations ; your extreme limit
must, however, be determined by careful meridian altitudes and chronometric
observations.

.'Jrd. As we have no accurate knowledge at what period the ice breaks up in
these Straits, you will keep a very vigilant eye upon it for any symptom that
would lead you to infer such an event was probable, and when feeling fully
assured such is likely to Ix.' the case, you will use your utmost exertions to
rejoin the ship, leaving the whole of your spare stores and provisions, placing
them upon an elevation, so that they may easily be discernible, as well as
available, for any other travcUiiig parties; takinjj also the latitude and
longitude, and noting any remarkable land by which the deposit may be
identified.

4th. Upon arriving at our present position should you find that the ship has
been drifted away (a circumstance only barely possible), you will proceed to
the depot at the Princess Royal Islands, and there remain until joined by the
other parties (the senior otticer then assuming the command) ; or if, after waiting
a reasonable time, there is no appearance of them, so that you may come to the
conclusion that they have been able to reach the shi]), it will then be necessary
to equip yourself with two months' provisions, and make the best of your way
to the " Plover," as I'ort CJood Hope upon the Mackenzie cam ot be depended
upon as a station, where you would be certain of obtaining a supply of provi-

■ioni in the rvrnt of having to winter there ; and any attempt to reach Port
Leopold without the knowledge of a whip being then' to receive you, or of the
difflculticH which tnny iniiK>dc your progrcRH in navigating an unknown coaat,
is very likely to \ie attended with oontarleH which would place you in a morit
rmharraHHing Mituution, nil which may be obviated by making direct for
Kotzebuc Sound, and by coiiHting the northern nhore of America you are
certain of open water, abundance of firewood, and plenty of game, neither of
which you could calculate upon in Harrow Strait.

5th. Having directed your attention to the principal objects connected with
the service you arc employed upon, as well as to every point which could
happen rclntivcly with the critical position of the ship, an<l having made
arrniifj;(>inentM to meet those; contingencies by placing boats upon the eastern
shore and Princess Royal InIuikIs, with a large dep6t of provisions and clothing,
I feel perfectly satisHcd that under any of the circumstances embraced in these
orders no apprehension need Ih; entertained for your ultimate tfcty.

Finally. Under the event alluded to in Article 4, you will consider yourself
detached (provided that you 8cc nothing of this ship while going to the
"IMover") ibr the purpose of making the best of your way to England, where,
immediately upon ^our arrival, you will report yourself to the Secretary of the
Admiralty, ciicloHmg the orders under which you have acted, with an outline
of our proceedings in as intelligible a form as your remembrance of the different
circumstances will allow.
. . Given under my hand on board Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investi-

fftttor," beset in the ice in I'rince of Wales' Strait, in latitude 7"^" 50' K.,
ongitude 117° 55' W., the 18th duv of April 1851.

(Signed) Uobert M'Cujre, Commander.

"* NoTK. — You arc to keep a Diary, from which, upon your return, you will
\k required to draw up a detailed account of your proceedings for my
information. — R. M'C,

No. 10.

The following is an Abstract of the Proceedings of Her Britannic M-jesty's
Discovery Ship " Investigator," since parting company with the
■*' Herald" upon the Slst July 1850, ofFCTape Lisbourni.

At 5.20 A.M., August 2d, latitude 72° 1' N., longitude 166° 12' W., made
the ice, which did not appear heavy, but upon entering it a short dist».ncc was
undeceived and ran out.

August 5th. — In running along the pack edge endeavouring to find an
opening, exchanged numbers with the " rlover," and at 1 1 a.m. made a low
shingle betich, to the eastward of Wainwright's Inlet ; at midnight rounded
Point Biirrow in 73 fathoms, but from the foggy state of the weather did not
sec it.

August 8th. — 1.45 A.M., being off Point Drew, sent Mr. Court, second
master, and Mr. Micrtstihiiif?, interpreter, to deposit « icjMce of our having
passed, who met some Esquimaux that had arrived thre. :' ) j previously ; these
trade with the Russians, and were very friendly ; therefore sent a letter, with
the chance of it reaching the Admiralty. We also heard from them that last
year three boats had passed to the eastward, with white men and Indians, which
was most probably Lieutenant Pullen. In the evening erected a cairn, and
buried another notice at Point Pitt.

August 9th. — Passed the Colville about forty miles from its entrance, in
three fathoms and a half.

August 1 1th. — Deposited a notice upon Jones's Island, which was thickly
strewed with driftwood. In the forenoon two baidars, containing twenty-four
natives, came alongside ; the chief possessed a gun with " Barnet, 1840," on the
lock, obtained from the Russians ; bartered tobacco for salmon and ducks. In
the uftemoon comnmnicated with another party, who were exceedingly intelli-
gent and dean ; sent despatches for the Admiralty, via Colville, and, from what
the interpreter states, believe that they will an'ivc.

August 12t'n. — Several Imidurs cuiric alongside ; received fish and ducks for
presents of Iwads and tobacco. These are adroit pilferers.

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August 14th.4mUun., upon 'a shoal deht thilua north of Yarboroueh Inlet,
having, during the last two daya, narrowly escaped several of these dangerous
banks, which are very little above the water, and hidden i'roni view by the ice ;
hove off with the stream anchor, but unfortunately upset a whale boat, and lost
eleven casks of beef, baving to carry sail to prevent being set again on shore.

August 15th.— Found.it impossible to get two miles in any direction, the ice
having closed from the northward, resting upon the shoals in that direction, and
to the southward, the low banks which we grounded upon yesterday ; anchored
to await some favourable change-
August l6th — Ice to the northward of the shoals slightly eased, leaving
about 150 yards of open water ; weighed and warped through two cables' length of
ite to get into it, which occupied six hours of hard labour, so heavy was the pack.

August 1 7th. — At noon the weather, which had been foggy, ' cleared with a
breeze from N.E. ; made sail through heavy sailing ice, occasionally striking
violently ; navigation along this coast verv dangerous, the sand-banks being low
and numerous. Latitude 70" 30' N., longitude 148° 4' W

August 21st. — Made the Pelly Islands off the Mackenzie; since the 1 7th
have encountered ver^y heavy ice ; ran ninety miles into a bight, which brought
us to tiie solid pack ; fortunately we were enabled to run out of it before it closed.

August 24th. — Observing some huts a little to the westward of Point Warren,
sent despatches for the Admiralty, with the hopes of their being forwarded by
the Hudson's Bay Company ; this trilie, however, have no traffic with theni^ but
barter with others farther west, who trade with the Colville, gi\ing as their
reason that the Hudson Bay Company had given the Indians water which had
killed many of them, and they did not wish to have any. They appear sa\ age and
warlike, and are at enmity with their neighbours. Brought the despatches back.

August 30th. — Observing a post erected on the beach, near Point Maitland,
in Liverpool Bay, sent to examine it, and deposit a notice of our passing; found
it was an Esquimaux nr>ark, who apparently had recently quitted it, there being
several caches containing bird - ^ ush.

In the ufternocii, while approaching Cape Bathurst, observed Esciuiniaux on
the shore; upon communicating with them, found that they belo igcd to a tribe
now at Cape Bathurst, who were catching whales, and the same who had seen
Sir J. Bichardson last year. In the evening, being thick and getting into three
and a half fathoms, anchored betw een Bailhe's Islands and the main land.

August .'J 1st.— Proceeded to Cape Bathurst ; tribe consisted of thret; liuiuhed ;
very friendly ; would go south in three weeks ; ga\e them despatches tor tlie
Admiralty, a gun and ammunition to the chief, and many presents among them ;
and, judging from their intelligence and cleanly appearance, have great expec-
tation of their reaching.

SeptemiKjr 1st. — Off Cape Batlmrst ; many natives came on board, and being
nearly calm, remained .until the evening, when a breeze springing up, we took
our final leave of the Esquimaux upon the American coast, fully convinced that
neither the ships nor any of the crews of Sir J. Franklin's exj)c<litioii have ever
reac'""' their siiores. They appear a ((uiet, inoffensive people (with the
CAceptior. of those at Point Warren, \'^hicli the Cape Batlmrst tribe have no
dealing witii), and would assist any white people thrown amongst them.

The whole of this coast is shallow, but with the lead may be safely navigated,
the soundings being very regular ; tlie shoals terminate about tliirty miles to the
eastward of Yarborough Inlet, and water varying in breadth tiom one mile to
forty, may be calculated upon along «hore, between the beginning of August
and 10th of September, according to the winds, more or less ice encumbered,
but the natives state that every year the ice opens from the siiore ; we found the
prevailing winds from E.SE. to N.K.

Supteiiiber 6tli.--At ll.;50 v. vi., being to tl • northward of Cape Parry,
remarked iiigh land from N. by E. to E.N.E.

September 7th. — -At {).30 a.m., landed and took po.s-session ol the discovery,
and named it Baling Island. The land is bold upon the southern side, lanng
upwards of 1,000 feet in height, ns northern being Hanks's Land; erected a signal
pole with black ball, and left a notice in latitude 71"^ H' N., longitude 122°
48' W.

Septeiiibcr 9th. - Ob.Kcrved land N.N.E. ; named it Prince Alluit's Land,
which is continuous with Wollaston and Victoria Land, and extends north to
latitude 73° 21' N., longitude 112° 48' W.

Ul. 7S> 46' N.

Lieutenant Hftiwelli

Lai .70» 38',

Long. Hi*.
Lieutenant Cresswellt

Lat. 74" 16',

Lonjf. 117° 40' W.
Mr. Wynniatl,

Lat. 72" 6" N.

Long. 107" 42'.

September llth.— Ship beset, latitude 72° 52', longitude 117* S'W: { birt ice
in motion.

October 8th. — Since the llth of last month, have been drifting in the pack ;
narrowly escaped destruction several times, until with a heavy nip at 3 a.m. this
day, which listtid the ship 3j; we were firmly fixed for the space of nine months
in latitude 72'' 4/', longitude 1 17 34'.

October 10th Took possession of Prince Albert's Land, distant four miles.

October 1 8th. — And to-day. Of the Princess Royal Isles, lying in the centre Ltng.' u7» •«' lo* w,
of Prince of Wales' Strait, distant four miles from the ship., . There is erected a
large cairn, pole, and ball upon its summit, and have deposited three months'
provisions for sixty-six men, besides leaving a boat and some ammunition.

October 21st The Captain, Mr. Court, and party started to trace this strait

towards the N.E.

October 26th.— Discovered the entrance into Barrow Strait in latitude
73° 3(y N., longitude 114" 14' W., which establishes the existence of a north-
west passage.

October 30th. — Five musk oxen shot upon Prince Albert's Land, which ter-
minated our operations for 1850.

April 18th, 1851. — This day despatched three travelling parties to search the
coast-line, under Lieutenant Haswell, to the S.E. towards WoUaston Land; Lieu-
tenant Cresswell in the direction of Banks Land; and Mr. Wynniatt (mate) to
the N.E., who respectively reached the position, as noted in the margin, and
traced the coast as per the accompanying chart.

June 2d. — The Captain and Mr. Miertsching (the interpreter) communicated
with the Esquimaux upon Prince Albert's Land, about sixty miles south of our
position, who had previously been met by Lieutenant Haswell. They traced the
coast-line as marked in the chart, and state that there are many of their tribes
inhabiting the land towards the south, but that they know of none to the north-
ward ; they are a kind, simple people, and have never before seen the white
man, at whom they were evidently alarmed-
July 1 4th. — Ice opened without any pressure, and the vessel «as again I'airly
afloat, but so surrounded with it, that we only drifted with the pack, having been
able to use our sails hut twice, and then only for afew hours, up to August 14th;
when we attained our furthest northern position in Prince of Wales' Strait,
latitude 73" 14' 19" N., longitude 115" 32'^ 30" W.

August 16th. — Finding our passage into Barrow Strait obstructed by N.E.
winds setting large masses of ice to the southward, which had drifted the ship
fifteen miles in tliat direction during the last twelve hours, bore up to run to
the southward of Haring Island.

August 20th.— Latitude 74° 27' N., longitude 1220 32' 15" W., Iiave hud
clear water to reach thus far, running within a mile of the coast the wjiole
distance, when our progress was impeded by the ice resting upon the shore ;
secured to a large grounded Hoe piece in twelve fathoms ; ice appears to have
but reccntlj' been detached from this coast.

August 29th. — Ship in great danger of being crushed or driven on shore by
the ice coming in with heavy pressure from the Polar Sea, driving her along
within one hundred yards of the land for half a mile, heeling her 1.5°, and raising
her bodily one foot eight inches, when we again became stationary and the ice
quiet.

September 10th. — Ice again in motion, and ship driven from the land into the
main pack with heavy gale from the S.W.

September lltli. — Succeeded in getting clear of the pack and secured to a
large grounded Hoc, latitude 74° 29' N., longitude 122° 20' W.

September 19th. — (Jlear water along shore to the eastward; cast off and
worked in that direction, with occasional obstructions and several narrow escapes
from the stupendous Polar ice until the evening of the 23rd, when we ran upon
a mud-bank, having six feet under the bow and five fathoms astern ; hove off
without sustaining any damage.

September 24th. — At daylight, observing Barrow Straits ftdl of ice and
large masses setting into the bay. determined upon making this our M-inter
quarters, and finding a well-sheltered spot upon the south side of the shoal upon
which we last night grounded, ran in and anoliorcd in four fathoms, latitude
74° 6' N., longitude 1 17" 51' W. ; this night were frozen in and have not since
moved. The position is most excellent, being well protected from the heavy ice

i:;.

by the projection of the reef which throws it clear of the ship six hundred
yards.

The currents along the coasts of the Polar Sea appeared to lie influenced in
the direction more or less by the winds ; but certainly upon the west side of
Baring Island there is a permanent set to the eastward ; at one time we found
it as much as two knots during a perfect calm, and that the flood-tide sets from
the westward, we have ascertained beyond a doubt, as the opportunities niforded
during our detention along the western shore of this island gave ample proof.

The prevailing winds along the American shore and in the Prince ot Wales,
Strait we found to be N.E. but upon this coast S.S.W. to N.W.

A ship stands no chance of getting to the westward by entering the Polar
Sea, the water along shore being very narrow and wind contrary, and the pack
impenetrable ; but through Prince of Wales' Strait, and by keeping along the
American coast, I conceive it practicable. Driftwood is in great abundance
upon the east coast of Prince of Wales Strait, and on the American shore also
much game.

In this vicinity the hills aboimd in reindeer and hare, which remain the entire
winter ; we have been very fortunate in procuring upwards of four thousand
pounds.

The health of the crew has been and still continues excellent, without any
diminution of number, nor have we felt the slightest trace of scurvy.

It is my intention, if possible, to return to England this season, touching
at Melville Inland and Port Leopold ; but should we not be again heard of, in all
probability we shall have been carried into the Polar pack, or to the westward
of Melville Island, in either of which any attempt to send succour would only
be to increase the evil, as any ship that enters the Polar pack must he inevi-
tably crushed ; therefore, a dep6t of provisions, or a ship at Winter Harbour,
is the best and only certainty for the safety of the surviving crews.

No traces whatever have been met with, nor any information obtained from the
natives, which could by any possibility lead to the supposition that Sir J. Frank-
lin's expedition, or any of his crews, nave ever reached the shores we have visited
or seaiched ; nor have we been more fortunate with respect to the " Enterprise,"
not having seen her oince parting company at the Straits of Magellan, the 20th
April 1850.

This notice was deposited by a travelling party in April 1852, consisting of
Captain M'Clure, George Gibbs, A.B.

Mr. Court, 2nd Master, „ Bounsall, A.B.

John Calder, Captain Forecastle, .John Davis, A.B.
Serjeant Woon, R.M., Peter Thompson, Captaiii I'Oie-top.

Whoever finds this, it is requested it may be forwarded to the Secretary of
the Admiralty.

Dated on board her Britannic Majesty's Discovery Ship " Investigator," frozen
in, in the Bay of •' Mercy," latitude 74° 6' N., longitude 117" 54' W., April
12th, 18.52.

RoBKUT M'Cluhe, Commander.

Unless there is a vessel now at Melville Island it is not my intention to
revisit it, but make the best of my way down the Straits. — R. M'C.

No. n.

Commander M*Ci.ure to the Skcrktarv of the Admiiialtv.

H. M. Discovi

" Baring's

very Ship " Investigator," Bay of Mercy,
taring's" Island, 10th April, 1853.
Sir, (Received 7th October.)

In the event of our not getting to England this year, I think it necessary to
acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,

ti :_ T .^..j„u:^„.

men J-4V/lU3iIIUB

wnat our operations wm oe, lo encci iiiai oiyeci in loOt, i

may 'oe enabled to take such co-operative measures for our relief as may appear

expedient.

Should the ice break up in this bay sufficiently early to permit of our getting
through the Straits this season, and finding the water open to the eastward of
Leopold Island, it would be my object to push forward, without stopping to
take on board any provisions from Port Leopold ; but n, contrarywise, the ice
should be thick towards Lancaster Sound, I would, if possible, proceed to Port
Leopold and complete a twelvemonth's provisions, and then risk wintering in
the pack or getting through, in preference to remaining at the above port ; if,
however, we are detained in this bay until next year, it will then be requisite to
leave towards the end of April and make for Port Leopold, where I am aware
that there is a good boat, a house, and ample supplies ; and, when the navigable
season opens, proceed to Ponds Bay, coasting along the south shore of Barrow
Straits ; arriving at Ponds Bay, and if finding from the Esquimaux that no
whalers have as yet been there, I should there await their appearance as long
as my provisions would admit, and then go down the west shore of Baffin's Bay,
keeping close along the land floe, where whalers or their boats are almost certain
of being met with ; failing this, I should cross to Discoe with the hope of getting
a passage in some of the Danish vessels, which come there annually and leave
about the beginning of September, or, being too late for them, either charter or
purchase one of their coasting schooners which I believe trade amongst the
settlement?, if she v/as capable of standing an Atlantic voyage ; could neither
of these be accomplishet', we must of necessity remain until the following season
at that settlement. Should any of Her Majesty's ships be sent for our relief,
and we have quitted Port Leopold, a notice containing information of our route
will be left at the door of the house on Whalers' Point, or on some conspicuous
position ; if, however, on the contrary, no intimation should be found of our
having been there, it may be at once surmised that some fatal catastrophe has
happened, either from being carried into the Polar Sea or smashed in Barrow
Straits, and no survivors lell. If such should be the case, which however I will
not anticipate, it will then be quit,e unnecessary to penetrate further to the
westward for our relief, as by the period that any vessel could reach that port
we must, from want of provisions, all have perished ; in such a case I would
submit that the officer may be directed to return, and by no means incur the
danger of losing other lives in quest of those who will then be no more. As,
however, it may occur (as was the case with Sir John Ross) that the ice may
not break up in Prince Regent's Inlet during the whole summer, it is as well
to provide against such a contingency ; if such should happen, it would be
necessary to winter at Port Leopold, unless apprised of the locality of any ship
that might be sent for our relief, which I think might be accomplished v ithout
any very great difficulty, as although such vessel may not be enabled to get far
up the Straits, yet as Admiralty Inlet would be pretty certain of being clear of
ice, she might proceed thither, and in some secure bay freeze in, and when the
Straits were firmly frozen about the middle of October, a small travelling
party could be despatched with the intelligence ; the whole would then proceed
to her, and although rather late in the season, men working for their lives are
not likely to be discouraged by a little cold.

Whatever may be the final tennination of this long, tedious, but I hope not
unimportant voyage, I beg. Sir, that you will assure their Lordships that in every
stage I have been guided entirely by what I have considered to be my duty in
prosecuting to the utmost the object for which the expedition was fitted out ;
and although we have not succeeded in obtaining any information which could
throw the slightest clue upon the fate of our missing countrymen, I hope that
the services performed in the tracing of a very gie it extent of coast line, the
discovery of much new land, a portion inhabited by a simple and primitive
people not hitherto known, and, above all, the acciu-ate knowledge of that Passage
BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND pAciFic OcEANH, which for SO luauy huiidrcd years
has baffled maritime Europe, its very existence being almost considered sceptical,
will, I trust, be considered events sufficiently interesting and important, to
elicit from their Lordships a favourable consideration of our services.

I have, &c.
RonERT M'Cluhe, Commander.

t i

Srcretary of the Admiralty to Commander M'Clurb, H. M. Discovery Ship

" Investigator."
Sir, Admiralty, /th October 1853.

I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to acknow-
ledge the receipt of the despatches forwarded by you on the 1 0th April last,
delivered at this office by Lieutenant Cresswell, and in wliich you report the
completion of the North- West Passage.

my Lords have perused the narrative of your proceedings in search of the
expedition imder Sir John Franklin with equal interest and satisfaction ; and, as
a mark of their approval of the great exeitions and untiring perseverance with
which that search, though unavailing, was prosecuted ; have been pleased this
day to promote you to the rank of Captain.

My Lords desire that you will signify to the utticerS, seamen, and marines of
the " Investigator," that their p. useworthy and exemplary conduct throughout a
trying employ, entitles them to their Lordships' highest commendation ; and that
the return to their country of officers and men who have so worthily distinguished
themselves, is anxiously looked for by their Lordships.

,,^, ^ ' .v;l:f i ffff: - (Signed) W. A. B. Hamiutom ,

Itr-

»:r

'•ii::i'j-

•tif»'i'-'' :i(P*^-.'^i'ii1ii P'i'^

Arrnr^.

Proceedings of the Squadron in the Arctic Seas, under the Command
of Sir Edward Belcher, C.B.

■-■■ ^'.-?' ;h>i.* Wirtyj !-;-••' • . , !;::-No. 1.

Sir Edward Belcher C.B., to the Secretary of the Admiralty, Loudon.

H. M. Discovery Ship " Assistance," Winter Quarters, Northumberland Sound,

Sir, Sept. 22nd, 1852, Lat. 76° 52' N-, Long. 97° W.

Being at this moment about to examine the coast (by sledge) easterly to Cape
Becher and Hamilton Island, I take this precaution, in the event of any party
from the " North Star " visiting our cairns, to uftbrd the latest information of our
proceedings.

On the 1 4th of August, as my despatch leit with Commander PuUen would
inform you, I quitted Beechey Islano, leaving there Captain Kellett with his
instructions, and who would see the "North Star" safely docked before quitting.
Steering on, we passed up WeUington Channel without observing Baring's Bay
or the deep indentations of the new chart, nor the Mount Franklin of De Haven.
On the morning of the i6th we noticed a very remarkable pile on a hill, appa-
rently the work of man, and immediately moved on in the " Pioneer," examined
it, and obtained my first well-fixed position in these regions. The pile was found
to be merely the remains of a dyke, vhich, being harder than the surrounding
matter, had remained until it had acquired a height of 20 feet, about 1 4 in the
meridian, and 6 feet E. and W. The position of our cairn about 100 yards south
of it, was in latitude 76° W 52" N., Jongitude 92° 48' 42" W., evidently the rise
from the point where one of the searching parties observed in 76° 13' distant
about two miles west from us. But the bays, formed north and south, free
t4>>xn ice, do not exist in w^y manner worthy of more than slight indentations,
'/'he ice or snow (as the southern land is very low) must have deceived the
previous visitors. I think I may safely say that not the most distant hope of
any communication by sea exists in this direction with .Jones's Sound. Although
from the fogs and vapours, which were particularly noticed from the crow's
nest on board, and by tnyself Iroui the deck, exhibiting at times the appearance
of smoke from fires, — 1 am inclined to suspect extensive lakes or arms
of the sea, &c., rumiing parallel to the northern land, and possibly connect-
ing by some very narrow neck, but westerly, much as it would otherwise mate-
riallv infiueiicc the tides in this region. I now snenk dotenninedly in calling
things by their proper names, at least if any tides are acknowledged in the
English Chunncl — regular rise and full, ebb and flood. Leaving this position,
and having already made my mind up not to interfiere with any land which could

'have becai '9001 'atid named' hy Captain Penny's pMple, 1 pushed on to the
westward, reaching Cappi Becher about m^night, where a deposit of forty-two
days' provisions for tcu men was well secured, and notice of our movement left.
Passing westerly, we reached about 4 pni. the extreme land. Here I erected a
very conspicuous cairn, and from the summit, ab<?ut 1,000 feet above the ice,
obtained a view of the distant land, easterly and southerly to S.W., where it
ceased, at what I t^h'^^l continue to consider as Cape Lady Franklin, reserving
the name of Sir John for the base of my hill. But from hence the view from Cape
Becher was entirely cut off by an intervening point not less than twelve miles.
The coast line, diminished much in length, will however accommodate Captain
Penny's names, giving *o the island next to me Cracroft, and Point Sophia, and
the points of others his ciifl'erent names.

Tne land on which I stood being veritably newly discovered, I took posses-
sion in due form as " Mount Percy," and tne territory *' Nofthumberland of
North Britain," at the same time naming the expanse of islet-covered sea
beneath me, " Northumberland Sound."

The fioe ice having closed in here on the outlying islands, compelled me to
seek for security foi the vessels which the Sound happily afforded ; but as it
continued to press in, no time was to be lost in selecting a spot where she might
securely winter. This fortunately offered about three miles westerly, where the
vessels are now well frozen in.

On thp. ,18th I made an excursion (o one of the highest peaks of the outlying
north-western island, from which I obtiiined angles to Cape Lady Franklin, as well
as to the southern and westermoat land, where it seemed to trend away S.S.W.
true. The next very distant land bore N.N.E., about 30 to 35 miles, being
.nearly th. computed distance which we were from Cape Lady FrankUn. I specially
remark these computed distances, to show that, under the most favourable
circumstances, in this chmate, and with first-rate instruments, I could baiely
at such distances, be sure of the objects presented to my view; and even
then 1 asked my assistant to satisfy himself that it really was land which I took.
^As far, therefore, as my observations from this point, and those of Commander
Richards, from a much higher mountain, about five miles easterly of me on the
main, are concerned, there is no visible loom of land between Cape Lady Frank-
lin and the newly-discovered land N.IS' .E., or by actual observation 143° 2' of the
horizon. From the free motion of the tides and floes (in the direction here
parallel to the channel, say N.N. W. ard S.S.E.) I am satisfied that we are now
in the Polar Sea, composed, in all probability, of a great archipelago of islets '
and sandbanks.

Time was now too precious to lose in waiting for open water for the ship ;
"indeed, I judged correctly in estimating the " season" closed, and immediately
determined on boat and sledge work; It was first intended to take two boats,
but the former Arctic men thought that appearances indicated firm ice or floes.
For my own part I determined to secure my great object of settling the position
of all we had seen already, and of being properly prepared for further operations.
The light ice boat, built after a model lent to me by Captain Hamilton, and
named after him, was attached to my sledge. Commander Richp.-ds had the
second sledge, and Lieutenant Osborn the third. Provisioned for twenty one
days, and with a precautionary depot sent overland to a bar ] ;ely to aftbrd
shelter the party started on the 23d August. It was soon tand that the
pools and cracks between tiie floes could not be managed by one boat, and she
little better than pasteboard as to thickness ; a whale boat was therefore added.
It is immaterial now to mention particulars, but on the 25th we landed on a low
point, where the coast turns suddenly to the eastward, and discovered the
remains of several well-built Esqu-Mt ix houses, not simply chdes of loose
stones, but two lines of well-laid wall in excavated groui 1, filled in between by
about two feet of fine gravel, well paved, and withal pri .iting the appearance
of great care, —more indeed than I amwilhngto attribute iothe rude inhabitants
of migratiry Esquimaux. Bones of deer, walrus, seal, &c., numerous. Coal
found.

The addition of the wiiale boat rendered the uioveinent,s of the otlier party
so slow, that I was compelled to move on singly, leaving Commander Richards
to complete the coiist-line search from his advanced station as long as his provisions
would last ( one sledge having swamped and spoiled the greater part). On the
evening of the 27th August, the anniversary of the action of Algiers, I took
possession of the first large island seen from the former station, naming it, in

114

' 111

I'b

■ %

■i:'.

'J,i.

i! i

I ' i

cc<rapliment tr> the gallr li Commander-in-Chief, " Exmouth Island ;" the summit
rnmed 'Milne Peak," our second in command. To the eastward of me
la;, a long table island, to which Commander Richards would repair and connect
it withour survey. Fn m tl'e summit of »; isis land, .'580 feet above the sea, and
in latitude 77° 15', 1 had ant'cipated ti;' satisfaction of commanding a most
extensive range. I was miserably disap,nt)inted, and after watching two suc-
cessive days hr i">vv; ibrough snow storm.-; for merely so:r.e glimpse of the land
I had now to v.';' . : was barely rewarded by ascertaining that an open sea of
about seventeen le^ would enable me to reach it, if the wind permitted ; for
the boat, when sleusc mden, with tent, bedding, provisions, &c., was not very
safe, even on the Thames above bridge. Fortune favoured us, and by aid ii"
sails (tent bottom) and paddles, we reachcl ouv destination the next aftern ini,
after six hours' toil. The ice then moviu;': on to the land completely entra) ;>'^d
us; but we were safi? on terra firma. Tlick snowy weather continued, 'ith
bright gleams at times, aftbrdiny us occasionally glimpses of Exmouth mid
Table Islands. I took possessioii of this new addition to H ■! Maje: 'y'd
territories under the title of "North Cornwall," in c^mplitnent to His Royii!
Highness the Heir Apparent. Waiting to i.'cure the poaii/on, whicii ^^as dctti-
mined to be in latitude 77° 33' 30" N., longitude about ,<):''W., and u wing
ascended Lh-,' highest point of land (within three miles N.F. ) ..ui satisfied myself
that 1 ' jiniuanded the north-west extreme ibr a radius oC five miles ut least,
and that ih: hind within the range of Exmouth Island (seventeen rji' s disliint)
existed '. :^3tM .irdly of me, I rttiuiied to the Iwacb : and, havi:^,:, liauied tlv, boul.
overlnnd to 1 . ir the ice whioli lioc' »:atrapped us, launched in the upen Auier.
and y\i\]Qi\ ak/.ig the soufh-weutern line of the island about seventeen iailes,
where ve iandiri ;m."1 ctk uivpi'd for the night.

This position jirovcd in !»■ tiie southern arrle of North Cornwall, situated in
77° 28' 50" N. The wui-icr «!• 1 continuec; tiiick, with occasional snow falls,
and hiding iio-t oi' the objefts whicl. I ivas so anxious to obtain; indeed, barelv
■ufhcient of Kxmiuth and TU:\. ImIiukL! to s'jcure my position. But in the
eastern horizon, v-lic;e the tuv it times shone brightly, I was enabled, from a very
elevated riosition, < ^ siUiiify ins self that nc land was visible in the eastern liovizon
for thirty .nilcs, atul the cistern low extrenn'ty of this land. North Cornwall,
about t*n miles E.N.K.

Throughout this vcrv interesting search not a particle of driftwood has been
noticed snice quit'ii i; Village Point, and not a trace of human beings. Animal
life seems to fail utun- quitting Exmouth Island. It is possible that the snow
>i7ov have covered in; lv objects ; hut we noticed them even where heavier snow
had fallen on Table Island.

h (Air unfortunate countrymen have " taken the floe, and drifted with it," /
their ''kk' is hopeless. If we may jud'je from the aspects of the fioes, where
they hiivf come into collision, or where th-jy piled themselves in layers over forty
feet on the north- western extremities of the islands : the feeling was disheartening.
AVe noticed nothing equal to it in Melville Bay.

Our only resource now is the close search of the coast line west and south-
westerly, and north and easterly, for any traces of vessels or crews.

'I'le tides in the parallel of 77° 30' are regular east and west, the flood coming
from the cast, and that tide to the north appearing to prevail at a depth below
the ordinary thickness of the floe, as we frequently noticed detached heavy
masses drawing some eight or ten feet, passing rapidly and forcibly against the
weather Hoe eijge and a stiff breeze. Tlie boat was on one occasion so ibrced
tc windward and sto\e.

Finding little chance of better weather, young ice forming, and our position
beinar very precarious in such a frail boat,. against the glassy ice e\en now on
the surface, we took advantage of the lull, and fortunatel}- effected our escape
•under j^i;.'at ditliculty to Table Island, — the day following Exmouth Island, 1
forward, rejoining Coninuinder Richards and party before leaving Village I'Sv.. .

I cannot take leave of the little boat without expressing, in common wii •
her crew, our luhnirntion of her most perfect adaptation for the si-rvicc co ':,
plated. She had, it is true, sund". -veie injuries; but, under Pv ' 'rleii. a-
escaped and returned safely. Siic yet, I trust, much to earn be is

laid up with her "honours due." was named the " Hamilton, . ali-

ment to Cftjiiaiii IliUiiilion, who knidly iini me the iiiodei from w''ii>.i '• ■ was
planned. From our examination of this Northern Sea, I now feel con /in e' that
the so-termed Sn:"Ui's and Jones's Sounds are connected immediately wjth t'ii

Northern Sea. If Franklin passed eo.iitcrly through Lancaster Sound, to try the
openings of Jones's or Smith s outlets, we may yet fall upon his traces, as m}' ov.n
spring movements will carry me in that direction. Commander PuUen or
Mr. M'Cormick may have already in parts ettlcd this important question; they
were fully impressed by me with the importance of that course ol search.

Our parties returned to the ship on the 8th of September, having been absent
bnt sixteen days. It was satisfactory at all events to find, that the opinion I
had formed of the season had been fully borne out, the vessels being securely
frozen in from the period we quittcJ..

So rapidly indeea did the ice appear to be uniting in one common floe, that
immediate preparations were made for sending out autumnal parties, with the
dep6ts for the southern spring search. The 13th of September was indeed fixed
for starting, but gaps were noticed from our hill, (one of the highest in this
vicinity'* which entirely stopped our proceedings.

l?vcr tually on the 'i2nd, I determined on endeavouring to search closely by
the CO ist-line between this and Cape Becher, as our rapid movement might
have caused some little object to pass unnoticed — not probable.

This letter was intended to be ueposited at the depdt there, for Commander
PuUen. Circumstances, now to be detailed, prevented our getting more than
one-third of the distance ; our return we had to be grateful for. On the morn-
ing of the 22nd, the same sledges and leading officers started on this service
unfortunately without a boat. Having reached and pitched our tents for the
third night, on an island about twelve miles to the southward of Mt. Percy, or
eighteen from the ship, the ice also betraying symptoms of great weakness ; bad
weather set in, broke up the ice, and cut us off from communication with the
mainland for more than a week, reducing us to half allowance, and materially
depressing the spirits of our men. Food we had in a walrus, which we killed ;
olso plenty of fuel. But no one knew how long this imprisonment was to last ;
and the anxiety too often expressed for very low temperatures, was uncommon
in these cold regions. At length our wishes were in some measure realized ;
the comminuted floes froze once more into ice that bore, and we escaped to the
main, skirting its edge until we gained a safe landing at night, after sundry
unpleasant escapes. Further expeditions this season were cut off, not only by
the severity of the cold, but by the sea maintaining a temperature which
prevented heavy ice from forming.

I now (having retained this letter) proceed to add my observations on our
late cruise. The subject is one which requires but little comment, viz., the
visual discoveries of Penny. It is my wish to give him every credit, for he is
entitled to much for what he has done. He has evinced a masterly and vigorous
intellect, beyond the usual powers of men not educated for surveying operations.
Here, however, I cease.

It is probable that he saw beyond what he had any right to see ; but our
longitudes, &c., will evince, not in the right direction. Therefore, although I
disclaim any mathematical right he has, I willingly give him up all his possible
radius of vision from any point which we can see, and from which, although
never visited by him, we v.jight be seen.

I have, therefore, throwing overboard the true bearing as well as the possi-
bility of his seeing our points of the termination of the Queen's Channel, retained
the names of Sir John and Lady Franklin as our turning points (notwithstanding
an island intervenes, cutting off Cape Becher at about twelve miles to the south-
ward). The names he has given may be scattered over the intermediate points.

On my return the ship was housed in, stores landed, and every preparation
made for winter. As it had been intimated to me, that magnetic observations
on a complete s^ale dnrinar the 'inter, would lie important, an observatory was
constructed oi ( i '^. ...ui tbe d(.ciiiiatiois magnetometer set up. I am happy to
say, that vo^ • cers from bt,;ii vessels are engaged upon this delicate but tedious
■ luty ; o'^i ' K trust that our reco.J.i may be able to tell their ov^ii tale.

As m next despatches will be sent by the "prirr; travelling parties, to meet
Captain Iwellett to the S.M'., and Cominandc- i ullen to the S.E., 1 ^^ill wait
imtil the period for starting arrives, when I Lope to be able to state our pros-
pects and intentions more fully.

I have, kr.. »

Edwarh Belcher,
'• -■ ' ' Captain Commanding Arctic Expedition.

t ■

i I

■1

"«

.(••■• : . , . • ■ ■ •: ■••■ ^ ' ■ ' •' "i, - •' ■ ■■ I . ■ t>

"Csptftio Sir E. Bblcheh, C.B., to the Seckeiarv of the Admiralty, London..

via' |ii'tt>*-»M;i J ■

il " » \ -H.M.S. " Avfristance," Northumberland Sound. '

^f Sir, ! ; .v> ; -^k'n '< April 9. 1853.

As it it possibk tfalat. either the oiBcer despatched by Captain Kellet, or that

from Commander PuUen may call at tha cairns where these letters may be

deposited, in conformity with instructions given , to < those officers on the '14th

August last ; —

"' I have now to acquaint you, in continuation of my last (which accompanies

'^ this) for the information of my Lord» Commissionen of the Admiralty, that

but one case of sickness and death has occurred in this division, viz., that of

' William Cutbush R.M., who departed this life on 27th February, after a long

and tedious illness of diseased lungs, aged thirty-four.

This is the third of the selected marines of this ship, unfit for this service.

The crew generally have been maintained in good health and workin^^ condi-
tion, and at tnis present moment are prepared to start on the sled^ duties.

Between the 22d and 29th ult. I pushed over a dep6t of provisions amount-
ing to 1,224 rations, or fifty-one days for twenty-four men (to Cape Lady
Franklin). The party was commanded by Commander Richards, and returned
in good spirits without a casualty, which, at this early season is, I believe, almost
without precedent.

The winter has been severe, as low as — 62°. 5; our spring, or first part of
March severe, as low as — 57°* 6, and again as high in a few days following,
as +27' ; mean of ten days consecutive, + 9' 5.

The general opinion I have been able to form as to a very early and mild
season, has determined me on sending forward the south weskem searching
division under Commander Richards and Lieutenant Osbom, with four com-
missariat sledges forthwith. These commissariat sledges will, seriatim, continue
to victual the detachment for periods of five, eleven, sixteen, and twenty-two
days } at the end of which time Commander Richards and Lieut. Osborn, will be
■atitnwd within a few left with forty days' provisions each, having, it is to be hoped, searched 200 miles.
sTiMrtinic. ^hc first slcdgc retums to the ship on the tenth day ; second, on the twenty-

second ; third, on thirty-second ; the fourth on fortieth day from the date of
setting out.

I purpose moving nearly about the same time (or pousibly waiting for the
return of the first sledge) to the N.E,, following up the search of last season
towards the head of Baffin's Bay, where in all probability I may meet with some
one from the " North Star."

Until the ic<. oreaks up, possibly June or July, it is quite impossible to form
any plans for the ship. Indeed, much will depend on the great western move-
ment of the ice before any navigation can be risked in these seas, where the ' ide
has such fatal influence if caught outside any of the curves of shelter affoided
by the islets between this and Cape Becher ; and then it must be on the
eastern sides of them (the islands).

- At this moment the amount of provision remaining for this part of the
squadron is as per enclosed.

All are in good working condition, and as far as a general surgical exumin<>tlon
(1st and 14th each month), no decided cases of scurvy have appeared— soft-
ness, tenderness, and sponginess of gums, and in one or two oases cedeinatous
swellings in those of a scrofulous habit, have b^en noticed and watched ; but
otherwise I should he disposed to think that the crew arc in better condition
than they were in August last. Mustard and cress, beer brewed on board, added
to the other suppHes furnished by Government, occupation and amusement —
all have aided in keeping up the spirit of enterprise and eagemesB t6 depart on
the present search. si ^ ^ ■ -t - ; ; -;■ v ?

In s^dmg forth these detad»nefll«s'I fisel that 'fifty are composed' of no ordi-
nary men; From the period of commissioning to the present day, pUnishweni
isalmoat, I-telieVe, unknown ; in fact, I do not believe that any cat was ever
constructed ! Considering, also, the deficiency of any species of police, and th'-
neculiar litiense nermitted on. this Ki»rviM». it Annears as if t.hfi ri-ftws rnntrr>l?i>rl
themselved^ ofwcrei'restnwied more by moral mfluence than on other service.

One copy oftloa goes to 77^ N.,loBgtaide 105° W., to meet Captain Kellat

or hiypfficeri ^e oth^r toCApe Bpoku*, tp n^eet^py ou«iM)«t| by CouuuAuder.
Pulkn (, buJt it is even possible that the ships may reach lDglis<|BAyt •hou|4,>tlM
<lutybc complete here, oeforo the lattttr qan be taken away. , i'.i ni>^r.^ •■h>:r,i't

Qvir vAov^meaks from thence >i;iUiniU«|!ially< depend on tbe«epo«t^ giveaiby
tbe officer on the state of the ice in, WelUn) ton Channel.

.If we Hucc(5(i;d in effecting all we contempltite in this region before the Ist of
July, there will be nothing to detain us ber^ But ifiCfWtaia CoUinson's expe*
dition sbquld have made any progress easterly, it can only bo in this noi:;tbem
parallel that he would stand any chance of escape.

Our position is safe, and might be maintained a» a depdt, if instructions
reached in time: the men mignt be exchftnged, &c.' But once moved from
henoe, I do not think any safe position oould 1^ foupd lUitil reaching Sir Robert
loglis's Bay (Cape Bccher). li ! ,'. •'^

, As the sledgie^crews are ready to start,. temperature —4°, and rising, I must
close, assuring their Lordshipii that I have every hope that the duty ordered
will confer further credit on the officers to whom I have entrusted it.

My own health, thank God, is good, and will, I trust, enable me to execute
all that may be wished, either under the present or altered instructions. 5 ttif) -i^
:>, -4;;^:.;; t-h- Mi I :..T, •: I have, &c,», _ .-»■.

5a.->, Vi ?^'c »rt.., >i,)') luii,tir>in-^im) "iirj I; . EowAHD Belchbb, Captain In^

y.'fui J Commanding the Arctic Squadron.

Sledges started 4 p.m., 10th April, n ..,

Postscript — 20th April 1853.— Mr. Loney, master, with Mr. AUard, master,
" Pioneer," despatched to place adep6tto N.E., returned yesterday : all well, no
casualty, and successful.

Mr. Grove (mate,) first return from (Jonmiander Richards, arrived to-day: all
well, as per letter of Commander Richards enclosed. A tracing of the newly-
discovered and corrected land, with lines of search, accompanies this — I hope
but a fouiidation for something of more importance before July next. All are
well, and continue to execute their duties, which, whc;n complete, I hope to lay
before their Lordships according to their merits. -•• ; '- .;

I am, &c.,-'«^' • rfJ* ' ■
,;'0«uv -Mu (^ v,H.*.'i -(fiv ..;;? vifcn.: irf uce" Edwaho Bklciikh.

.f-TJK

No 3.

nr.

'u>

111 i\.Mfi%^ SfW !'•:);:

^'Dr. LvAixto Captam Sir £. Belchbb, C.B.

,.:.!>.•"■ , . H.M.S. "Assistance," Ncrtbuniberland Sound,

Sir, Lat. N. 76° 52', long. W. 97°. 3d May 1863.

In compliance with the orders left by you that I should report to you by
letter my proceedings since leaving the ship on the 10th ultimo, with the
division of sledges under the orders of Commander Richards, so that a copy
might be forM'arded to Cape Becher along with the despatches for tne
Amniralty, I have the honour to inform you of my returr to the ship this day
at 11 A.M., having accompanied Captain Richards s party as far as lat. N. 76°
27', long. W. 108° 18'.

On Sunday the l6th of April, at 4 p.m. I left the ship, in chai-ge of the sledge
" Lady Franklin," in company with the sledges " Sir Edward," " John Baxrow,"
" Reliance," " Success," and " Enterprise," the whole under the orders of Com-
mander G. H. Richards.

The first night we encamped on the north end of Spit Island, about six> miles
from the ship. On the ni^t of the 14th, we were about two or three miles
from the dep6t on Cape Lady Franklin, on the south shore of Queen's Channel.
On the 15th, we crossed the entrance of a channel running to the S.W.; and on
the afternoon of the 16, the sledge "Enterprise" (Mr. Grove) deposited on the
land a five days' depot for the other sledges : and on the morning of the 17tk,
started on his return to the sbipj die others at the same time ptoceeding to the
westward.

Our cou. J at first to the northward, afterwards to the southward of west,

steering f roc point to point of the land.

At 4 P'.H. ut the 24tu, we reached a level plain running out from a high hill
« which we had had in si^t for some days previously, and which has for the pre-
, lent been called Cape J'ortune.. This, by Captain Richards's dead reckoning,
,«4*;."iCiir. iu^ii 5 .^isdDii .'o E'jiCi'jtj-.. L'-isra.. iilf'SS... uj-^ huis ,.>:nj,.a''«i .-^rgad,:^. > .^•U*&.v

ii^^

M iituiitfd in latitude N. 76° 37', longitude W. 103° 18'. Hen- wf buried
our six days' dep6t lor the other sled^'H, covering it up with earth iind iiniall
■hingle, there being no Htones in the neighbourhood.

On the morning of the 'i.'ith, the Laoy Franklin 8turti(I on her return to the
•hip, and reached the first d pAt on the evening of the 29th. On examination,
it was found that, although stnxigly built of a double wall of stone, the top and
part of one side had l)een pulled down, iind several things taken out of the cairn;
but the only sign of any serious damage done whs an empty box. which was
supposed to have contained a mixture ot stearine and oil for fuel. The articles
taken out were replaced, and the cuiiii strengthened as much us possible. There
were numerous tracks of bears round tho n!u?

Finding that this dep6t had been <i ' , ir d ' ti ught it advisable to examine
the state of the grand one at ',,10 L.mj; It uklin. On reaching it on the
morning of the 1st of May, I foaui tluu tiie liag had been torn in pieces, two
oars broken through the midli'-, two large casks and a small one rolled away
from the side of the boat, and .1 number of preserved me.^t tins pulled out i'roin
beneath it. Some pieces of wood, the end nt' an onr, and a U-ather thong were
found deeply marked hytiie teeth of some large animal ; but so far us we could
see, no damage had been done to any of the provisions. Th»> imly tracks of
animals visible were tlic iresh foot prints of foxes ni' 11' ^ o^t, and 'f deer
in the vicinity, but no doubt this must have lx?eii tlie work of hears or wolverines.
We replaced the casks, &c., and then started for Northumberland Sound,
following the old sledpe trac'ks us closely as possible. Next afternoon, when
within about four li.e miles of Spit Island, we found that the weight of miow
on an old pack hue' ' oken it down in several places. There were large cracks
and holes through rlie ice, and the surface was in many places covered witli
water, in conse(;uc..ce of which we all got wet teet, and two of the men fell into
water holes, im reaching Spit Island we encamped for the night, and on the
morning of the Hrd started for the ship, where we arrived at 11 a m. On our
way we found that there was open water between Spit Island and the low
island, about half u mile to tlie northward of it, as well as between the south
end of the former island am! the opposite point, so that, in all probability, the
ice surrounding this island will break up very early in tlie season.

Although we had the tempeniture for three succt-s.-iu- days, 20' below zero,
whenwc started in the morning, and although on one of those days we tia veiled
for some hours against a strong breeze, we were fortunate enoiigli fD escape with
only superticial frost-bites of the face, lingers, and toes, ni'iie of which
incapacitated tiio men from work. Besides these some slight case s of illness
occurred, but not of su^'h consequence as to prevent the men from sticking to
the drag ropes.

The only person sent back as unable to do his duty was George Harris, A.IJ.,
of the " Pioneer," attached to the sledge Iteliaiico, who complained ol' cough,
pains in the chest, and cramps in the region c i' ihe stomach. Thomas Marshall,
coxswain of the launch, H. M. S. " As-istance," and "ne of the crew of the
sledge Lady Fra. \lin, was sent tr. the lleliance in his iilace.

At none of the points of land .1 vhich ^' touche( us there tiic slightest
trace or indication of man, civilised or savage, ever liaving been there. The
foot prints and dung of deer anii hiu*es were coiimion, and eleven or twelve of
the former and one of the latter were sf;r" and some of them fired at hut none
were killed. The deer were said to -e entirely white, v.iU the exception of onf
buck, which had a Iniwn spot lietween the shoulders. At C'upe Fortune we
saw the truck of a large animal, supposed to Ik; a musk ox.

Durine '..ur progress to the westward, we did not see footprints of bears ;

but on our retiiin found them nuim loiis and d everal ^j/es, uppmently fol-
lowing the outward Iwund sledges. One night ; of iiem had been within
twelve or fifteen yards of our tent, although the . % hii we had with us gave
us no hint of their vicinity. We occasionally cm ised tii track of a fox, and
found numerous marks of lemmings far out on the floe. One of the latter,
caught . .at five miles from the ni nest land, was the only animal killed during
thejourney.

The ge()iogical formation of the country to the westward, from Cape Ladv
Franklin, is chiefly of a coarst; grey sandstone, forming gently sloping hills wit^i
intervening valleys and plains, in some places covered with soil. In places
where the land was clear of snow, it was found covered with last year's plants,
chiefly saxifrages, poppies, and grass and several species of lichens and mosses.

^ »

nfimiiii,.

Having now given you a general nummary of my proceedings whilst attached
to the south-western division of itledgea, I nhall reserve the details of my journal
for your return to the ship.

I have, Stc,
' D. LvALL, M.D , Surgeon.

:;.!/■' • • ,.A No. 4. ; .',. ,, .'.,... ^ _..

Lieutenant Ciieynp. to Captain Sir E. Brlchkr, C.B., for transmission to the
Srchktahv of the Admiralty.

Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance,"
Winter Quarters, Nortminibcrland Sound,
'■ "': Latitude 76° 62' N., Longitude 97° 0' W.
• ili^ ' " Hth May 1853.

I iiAVK the honour to report to you proceedings up to the day of my leaving
this for Cape Bcchcr, with your despatches, letters, iVc, for Kngland. Dr.
Lvall, in command of sledge " I^udy I'rnnklin," arrived on bonrd Her Majesty's
Ship " Assistance," at 11.30 a.m. on the .'Jd instant, having uccompanicd Com-
mander Richards in the western divigion to a cape named (pro tern.) Cape
Fortune, situated in Lat. 7(y^ '27' N., and longitude 103" IH' W. In accord
ance with "our order, J have opened Captain Uichards's ofticial note
addressed to you, and herein transmit a copy.

" Cape Fortune, latitude -()" 27', hmgitude 1U3° 18' W. uourly."
" Sir, " Sunday, 24th April, 1853, 5 p.m."

" I HAVK the honour to report you the arrival of the Division under my
command at this |)oint, which 1 uave named (pro tem.) Cape Fortune. Dr.
Lyall will leave to-morrow morning for Northumberland Sound, with the ' Lady
Franklin." Since parting witii the ' Knterprize ' sledge, we had been passing
along thi' north shore of a group of islands, named by me the Deception Islands ;
that coast has been satisfactorily examined, but no trace has been discovered of
the missing expedition. The strait or sound between these islands and Cape
Lady Frsmklin, I reserve for examination on my return. The coast, so far as
we have come, is deeply indented with bays and inlets, but as all the floe we
have he passing on is old. I hojte to be able to complete them all with the
assista of Lieutenant Osborn during the present season, liy the ' Lady
Franklin ' I send back George Harris, of * Pioneer,' belonging to the sledge
' Reliance,' who has been suft'ering from cold and cramps, and is totally unfit for
ihe arduous service. I have retained Thomas Marshall of the ' Lady Franklin '
in hi" tead, otherwise, I am thankful to say, we have no casualties. From my
second -ieutenant Osborn, I am receiving that ready support and valuable
assist, which his experience and intelligence render him so well qualified to
give inr, and I have every reason to be satisfied with the conduct of all
comprising the Division."

" 1 have, &c.,

" (iKOKOK Henry Richards,
" Commander, Commanding South West Division."

The opening in the ice that had made between Spit Island and the south
extreme of this sound, has enlarged a little, and the ice in that diret tioit wearing
away fast, so a^ to be unsafe in many places to walk over. It promises an
early break np. Mr. Herbert's sledge the " Success," will he (hie on the l/th
instant ; a boat will be in readiness to meet him at Spit Island, in case the ice
shoi.dd become worse at the north west end of it. The duty of the ship is
proceeding as speedily a ur very small force will allow. Everything is going
on satisfactorily. I start iliis evening for Cape Becher again, with the letters,
having got good independent and equal altitudes for rating the chronometers.

I have, &c.,

John P. Cheyne,
Lieutenant and Commanding Officer.

Ill

I 3

Captain S» EowAao BKi^Hia, C.B. to Coiiunander Pitllbn, or any officer tent
i!o«>»ti:M 0 U r^ communicati" with Oapc Bocher.

Her M<\jenty'i> iihip " AsHiHtHOcei" April aist, IBftl).

TiiR keg contuiii8 deipatches tor (Jommandcr I'ullen and the Admiralty. It
]• not to be opened by any ofticor but Commander PuUen, (or his Huperior) until
it rcachci hin nanda.

The (leitpatchea enrloiied to Cnmmauder Fullcn will \k opened by him, where
he will fina further inntructions. ' •'

All letters, public or private, are to be enclosed iu one official cover, and Hent
on liet Majeoty'ti Service to the Secretary of the Admiralty, from whence they
will be duly forwarded ; and no (icrson dnuctly or indirectly to communicate
with England but through thJH channel, in order that Her Miyesty's Govern-
ment may have the earliest information, and be prepared to furnish correct
information.

This may prevent much unneccHHary pain and inconvenience to the friends of
those intercHted in our labours.

Commander Pullen and all officers will see that these instructions arv rigidly
carried out.

It in probable that the " AHsisttuncc" will be at or near Cape liecher during
the month of August ; therefore, any dispatches which may arrive, are to bt"
forwarded to meet the ship by the eastern side of Wellington Channel, calling
at Point Hogarth, which will be a principal rendezvous. At all events, as the
distance on the present position, where the ship may be ice-boimd, is not more
than four day's easy march, the officer should Ik- instructed (and provisioned)
to move on and communicate with me. Indeed, this duty must be imperative,
as the final determination of my movements must depend on the co-oiwration of
the external divisions, should it be found necessary to abandon the vessels next
season.

The officer leaving this will deposit such a track chart, as will enable any one
moving beyond Cape Becher, readily to find the ship.

He will also leave on his cairn record, any additional inforn)ation which he
may have to communicate. i. .ii

The records Are to be copied, but on no account removed, as they are spe-
cially intended for parties arriving from the westward, who may unfortunately
miss our quarters.

Given under my hand, on board Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," this 21st
daypf April 1853. '." "'

(Signed) Edward Bei/'hf.k, ' •«*t.i-*-»''^'
,,^ Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron.

N.B If it should be ttecessAry to forward an officer on to nie, I ivish

Mr. Alston (mate) to be entrusted with that duty. — E. Bklciier

If the officer who calls for these despatches has the means of keeping them
safe and dry, he can take them out of the keg. — E. B- .

■»i) .*ii' -ii '- I •.)iti .-.. ^,> ..,- v-,'.-'.. ■' i ij.C\ .t

' '>.■'■ 'If -. ,»;-.r. ft'

i^ii-'^'-M ili^./ ,r\],{^- i-io.ii ■■.nti: f uii ■!:_siur- .1:.: tu.,
^i>w.:f.-. By Sir Mward Belcher* l£t., CiB., Captam of Her Majesty's

Ship Assistance, and Commanding the Arctic Squadron.

Whereas sttddih x>pportiinity may offer to forward to the Admiralty the
documents connected with this 8er\'ice, and moreover, enable me to detail, ifec-
tuaily the operations of those under my command.

It ii my direction, that every uffrer in' iVmMfthd tl<t' ')*•)) vip^ each oiicer
entruited with BicdgeN or other detached M^r\'ico wadtg kiui for Aill written
report! or joumali, within a reasonable period after th« Ntunt of, caoh officer {
and that xuch reportH be duly forwarded undor cover to mo, duly aigncd, at
Bccchuy iNland, ny every poNsibk* opportunity.

The Ntatc and condition will nUo lie forwnrded, with contentH, etc. on the
envelope. TlifHi; will be «)penerl, copied, and forwarded by Commander Pullcn,
or the senior officer in my abtiencc. Rut ibe originals Htt to' he reserved until
my return. ■ " - ' ■ '- ^-^ •• '

Given under my hand, on board Her Miyesty'i* Ship " ARaiatance,"

^ ••••'M"' |f(*(V iinr- ,,10 Jt'l Ki

Northumberland Sound, 20th April 18fi3.

it.

(Signed)

■ "ir

Edw. Bblohib, Captain. -^
:ia
'i To Cantaiu Kellett. C.B. .^^^ss'if't *»'» ^wswlnffB ^ttmi 1o (Hw a,< ^}rf#

iji .... '.JtrtJ' V <i/f<fc'*t.f .'-W sH

• ,( The Commanders and all others within the limit of .j.;., y! ,,|ij^,tii^ ..,/ y„«)(
the Arctic Circle, or who may arrive, or have arrived. (; ./ \i«,J,,i ,,, ttifM.

t'; .t;i'j • i;;irrx)vi

•». •. • ^ • . • ■ .

Ui*rt' 'C-*^' I'l "iUl*( •■II ".- '.

../'» -J

. •> .11 ■/ j.^.., ..1. -n.-J li/jii jrv'i'i- I i

'.•■•(•vyr-i • ,!■ jj'i

Captain Sir E. Belcheh, C.B., to the Secretasv op the Admiralty, London

,i, v,ii(i * ii' fT- I Her Majesty's Ship "Assistance,"

"i Sir, «l ■.•-'.'. nf'-i i..., I. Northumlierland Sound, 2Sth April, 1853. '

The return of Lieut. Cheyne without dispatches, and the annexed notes of
Commander Pullcn, leave me so utterly in the dark, as to prevent my merely
•tating more than that I have learned of the arrival of Commuuder Inalcfield,

f/ and that despatches had been deposited for me at Cape Bccher, as well as at

*• Point Phillips.

From a newspaper I gather the intelligence that Commander Inglefield has
taken charge of the " Isabel," vice fieatson ; and coupling her motions with
those of the " Prince Albert," my instructions relative to her, and the total
silence of Commander Pullen as to the contents of the said dispatches, &c., —
I cannot imagine that anything can possibly be contained therein at all affecting
the important duty entrusted to me.

I have already lost ten valuable days of this very short season, and intend,
without further delay, starting on the 1st May, as in my former communication.
As the note of Commander Pullen will not entitle me to expect any officer of
his at Cape Becher before the iiOth May, I shall take care before that period,
to have the latest information deposited there, and if possible, so arrange, that
both officers shall meet and converse, as well as find the missing documents.
After a very careful consideration of all that Lieut. Cheyne has to communicate,
I am not inclined to blame an}' one until the error is discovered ; but on such
a service, and regarding a dispatch which might affect the safety of ships and
lives, I feel that 1 should do wrong if I did not impres.s on the minds of the
defaulters, when discovered, that, wheh they volunteer lor service which entitles
Ihem to honour, chance of promotion, and high pay, the country demands
a very strict adherence to the essential duties.

I shall leave full instructions with the officer left in command to report fully
the latest information' received from Commander Richards (tlirough Com
mander Pullen), with any other matter of importance.

At this moment all the stearine, and great part of the spirits of wine, have
bees expended for the duties ordered.

'ii

The available fuel now on board is : —

Alcohol, 38 gallons. -

Hog's lard, 112 lbs. \

Seal oil, 38 gallons. )

Pemmican, none.
Chocolate paste, none.
Sweet chocolate, 15 lbs.
Essence of coffee, 48 half-pints.

Therefore, in the event of these vessels being ice-locked at the period they
may attempt a release (even this year), and a further detention before I should
feel myself warranted in abandoning them ( which in my opinion will never be
necessary), the necessary fuel for a march of at least .'}() days for twelve sledges,
should he forwarded from the " North Star". As Commander PuUen will copy
this, he will of course understand this necessity, and if possible provide for it.
He will probably learn further of Captain Kellett's position, and whether he
may be similarly' circumstanced, — whicli I think, if he attempted to reach
Melville Island, will be more probable than in this chaimcl.

Under all these circumstances, of course their Lordships will be better able
to judge, from the final report of Commander PuUen, whether from information
received or not from Captain Collinson's division, it ma}- be pmdent for us to
place in depot as far west as this such necessary supplies of the matei'ials abso-
lutely necessary to support their travelling parties, and enable them to advance,
should wc shift easterly. -^Vs to their \essels making any way easterly to the
southward of 78° N., I see no possibility. Tlie travelling parties would probably
find our southern cairns, and move on for this or Cape Becher.

Independent of sustaining the men by food, it is of infinitely greater importance
to look after their feet. The natural spirit of llie man will carry him forward
if he has a foot for travel ; but the want of travelling boots, the chafe of the
feet, and frost bites, may cow the strongest and most active, when !• ... valms
would be a dainty to him, and that even without cookin- ni so far u.
sustenance of the body and freedom from scurvy is cp .cerned. If their
Lordships slunild have occasion to order any supply of .,ucli articles, I would
venture to suggest that they should be got up by " Mr. Kilby/' shoemaker at
Woolwich, witii whose boots all the ofticers of this, as well as those of the last
expedition, have been supplied, and found to succeed. Those from Government
are very inferior to his.

It is necessary that they should be made of canvas, or of some very strong
and pliable material, with leather soles, and thin inner cork soles. If they could,
above the welt line, be protected by gutta percha well eoAcred with tine emery
dust, 1 think they might last longer ; but in severe cold, gutta percha is bad. '

It is (,nly for spring or autumn travelling that such boots would be available.

They should be made so free, that one of Kilby 's boots ( as made for us )
covered with one blanket wrapper (which Captain Austin can explain) should
go freel} into, with space to spare at the toe part.

The compression to take cHect across the foot at four inches from the toe.
Instead of his simple strap a strengthening piece at heel, to prevent its falling
there, and crinpliug or chafing the heel, as m the annexed sketch.

Hnlfs 10 l»oe.

To til'— iioi buckle.

»«iv lull, toguoutnidf irowtm. 6 loowheri'. tmumiifwti'i'.iK. Nut hiijli-i'iiltrl ; it crippln thtaiiklr.

k 1 "-t Tfl.l'J^^tfS'^" "

The supply of " Blankets lor wrappers," by some oversight, not supplied.
The squadron are very short of them.

I deem it my duty to suggest to their Lordships that, in the computation
entered into for tht execution of this service, it was hardly contemplated thnt
any great number of men would have to be provided for "as travellers on tn
floe,' and that the scheme of my predecessors was assumed as that competent
for the duty.

But, in the absence of othei iulbnnation, we have to provide tor the wants of
others (Captain Colli ':son's division) more in need than we shall be ; and if, as a
matter of precedence, they must of course l)e first forwarded, we can remain by
our ships until relieved. But it is my duty to state thai: the supplies arc now
barely adequate for the relief of our own crews ; and that if, at the expiration of
this season, any of Captain Collinson's or Captain Kellett's division should
require our aid, we shall not be able (unless we clear the ice) to i^ake any
satisfactory arrangements (I mean ibr sledging duties).

On the 1st August 1854, by my instructions, I am to be prepared (the acts
of Nature not interposing) to resume tlic command of my dispersed squadron at
Beechey Island, " if twelve months' provisions remain."

But when H.M.S. " Resolute" and " Intrepid" were detached so far west as
Melville Island, it occurred to me, as it does now, that those vessels are more
likely to be ice-locked, and at all events LLcii crews more distressed than tliose
with me. Between the years 1848 and 18r)l that channel was not navignble.
The season of 1852 was fine, possibly beyond precedent ; and yet I have mv
fears, since I have heard of the accident ( no official report) to the " North Star ;"
indeed, I contemplated such an event on the 1st October last, when I was
detained at Hungry Island for nine days, cut off from all escape until the ice
re-formed or the water opened.

I lierewith enclose the scheme of travelling parties at present moving, and
trust that the spaces covered by them will set at rest finally and conclusively
this most exciting mission.

If Sir John Franklin passed through tiiis channel to the southward of Barrow
and Parker Islands, and met the floe moving westerly, he never coukl reach, as
far as we can discover, any place of refuge, and in all probability drifted into
the Polar Basin, and may be anywhere within 78" and J)0° N., if not .'breed out
by the north of (ireenland or Spitzbergen.

But with his energy, with the open sea before him, I can only judge from ni v
own condition under very similar circumstances, he could not and would not
stop to erect any cairns between Cape Bccher and CIrescent Island, or Baillie or
Hamilton Island and Cape Lady Franklin. If he could not, as we did, haul in and
secure shelter, no other chance remained but to drive where the floe carried him ;
and the mind of any man contemplating its force here, leaves nothing but destruc-
tion as the almost inevitable result.

I have, lie.

Sick— none: "All well."

Edwafid Bklcher,
Captain Connnanding Arctic Squadron.

No. 7.

Conimander Pullen to Captain Sir E. Belched, C.B.

Dear Sir, Cape Bccher, 10th April 1 8.53.

I bEG to inform you of my arrival here this morning. Finding that from the

imfbrtunate position in which my ship has been placed, rendered it so difficult

to carry out your order to the \erv letter, was my reason for leaving so early,

so that 1o ensure no detention to vonr piirtics on their arrival here ; and, as I

liill

•x\

^: 74

leave dispatches* at the extreme place of rendezvous, they will have only to
deposit theirs without >vaiting for my party, as it is possible tney may not reach
by the day named (1 1th May), as I shall only be able to send one, and to this
place.

Should I get back in time, I will send you a detailed account of this journey ;
now only saying that it has been a very heavy one, and not without damage to
our gear ; for off Point De Haven l)oth sledges — (sic).

I left the ship on the 2l8t ult., and have been particularly favoured with
weather, but from what I have seen of late, think the ice about here will soon
break up. Yesterday, between this and Dundas Island, there were many holes
of open water, and a walrus lying at one ; the ice not more than six inches thick.
I was obliged to leave the sledge three miles from this, carrying by hand the
dispatches the rest of the way ; so heavy was the ice, ind having only five days'
provisions left, feared the time was too short, as we ha<l only started from our
dep6t at De Haven with fifteen days', and the standing part of Ihem expired.

[ shall turn back for the ship to-morrow, and pass to the eastward of the
Islanu in hopes of finding a better road ; pick up my party, and expect the
20th or 22nd will see uf on board. Such u journey as this one has been I hope
never to see agai , I do not think 1 would wish my greatest enemy greater
harm than tc travel over it as we have done ; and I candidly say, that on any
other occasion I would have given up long ago.

I am, &c.

W. J. PULLEN.

P.S. — Mr. Penny's boat I found south of Point Phillips, in latitude 75°
30' N. There was a little bread in her, about 50lbs. ; three lib. tins of soup ;
about 3lbs. of tea, a little salt, and tobacco. He says in his notice, " ten days'
provision " left, also clothes ; but unfit for any one in Arctic weather.

No. 8.

10 d*>>.
10 back.

20 clij«.
itObuk.

Probable d.ie, acili
tl'j K. Uklciiek.

Cape Becher,
Sunday, 10th April 1853.

Commander Pullen arrived here this morning, with a travelling party from
the " North Star," and deposited dispatches for Sir Edward Bclcner under-
neath ; together with letters and newspapers from England, brought out by
Commander Inglefield. Duplicate copies of the dispatches will be I'ound at
Point Phillips.

As the " North Star'" was driven on shore last September, and not able to
get of!' again, one party oi;l ' will leave her, and not before this one gets back
will not likely be here b; .^iie 10th of May, They will come the Bnriii^' Bay
route, as it is very likely the ice to the westward of the Islands will Ik; open
before that time. Captain Pullen left the ship on the 21st March.

Mr. Penny's boat is on the south side of Point Phillips, in lat. 7;'" ;»0' N.,
with a very small quantity of provisions in her, about rA) lbs. of bread.

The travelling has been very heavy, particularly on the western side of the
Islands.

To the Officer commanding the Sledge from
H.M.S " Assistance" or " Pioneer," &e.

I ■
I

* Dinpatihcs. ■^^ lie lias copied tlinnc for mi-, :nake« no nil jsion lo llicir contents, and, mnreoyer, nljserve^ ilinl my

[jortv will only have tu dcpo'it theim, ! suppose ncMSiing therein eoniuimd allects my nmiidns in this iiiiaiirr K.B,

^^m^i^ssSmsa

7«

NORTH-E iSTERN SEARCHING DIVISION. '

(The Captain.)

The present ordei's for the Nort]i-eust Division — now modified by the necessary loss of
time to send again to Cape Becher (loss 7 d&ys) : —

1 is The Londeshorough - 9 men and officers, iO days, 360 rations - 5

2 „ The Dnuutless - - 8 „ „ 40 „ 320 „ - 5 •/

3 „ The Enterprise - 11 „ „ 50 „ 550 „ - 6

(advances dep6t, 1 day.)
Tlie Enterprise feeds - 28 to the present dep6t 5 days, possibly 5 - 10 - 6
completes and advances 28 x 10 days = 280)
retnrn - lOOj

• • r. Deposits

380 - 550 - 170 = 10 days' retiu-n.

Return.'! to depot and home - - - - 1 and 2

]0
Tlie Dauntless victuals No. 1, 10 days - 17 x 10 = 170 rations.

8 men back, 10 - 80 „

No. 1 deposits

250
320

70
20

Return rations, 1 0 days = 90
The Londesl)ovougli will then have

I(!e-boat deposited.
.38 days'—
advance
retiim

Clear odvanoe (it the lowest average 8' per diem = - 360

and i-eturn - 720

On the return of the Enterprise - 11 men. -

Aided by the Lady Franklin - - 11 „ ' '

And Perseverance - - - - 11 „ '

And victualled for 30 days each.

Tiie wliale-bortt will be advanced, and tlie .suiplus provision of two of thesf
available for further Iwat service. Sliould the i<;e, anfl our then state, permit
of our making further examination ■ f North Cornwall, Dr. Lyall, with the
" Lady Franklin," will be at the depot. Men an be exchanged ; returned to
ship ; and furtlier supplies, if requisite, forwarded.

E. Belchek, Capfaiu.

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• '■ ■■"• No. 9. ■ ; ~"' ■ ';

Captain Sir E. Belcher, C.B., to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," on return to Beechey Island, westward
of Baillic Harbour, and about ten miles east of Cape Becher.

26th July 1853.

Subject— Movements of the Squadron seurching for Sir J. Franklin and others.

Sir,

Tino \ ery laiexpectcd arrival of Conununder Pulleii in his boat ort' Duudas
Island, just as I had recovered my despatches (deposited for him at Cape
Becher in Mav last), places me in tlic position of addressing to their Lordships
a very hurried dispatco.

First, because a mile gained in this dreaded strait is a consideration risking
w intering here. Next, Commander PuUen has to return by the west of Dundas
and Hamilton Islands, and I cannot strain his crew by carrying them much out
of their way.

After my despatch of April last, I proceeded to the N.E. as far as the con-
nex'.on with Jones's Strait, m f)0° W., where I found the sea open, and all progress
obstructed on 20th May. Polar Sea, as far as the eye could range, from 1,500
feet elevation, *' rough sailing ice."

This el' ation is in latitude 76° 31', and about 90° W. ; but the whole survey, I
trust, will bt (on a half inch scale to one mile) ready for transmission bei'ore
the 1st September, at which date I purpose sending one of the vessels home.

Being cut off by sea, I now pursued an opening Ironi C'ape Separation (nearly
nc'itii twviily miles of Prince Alfred Bny), and reached Wellington Channel.

I xt, having noticed loom of land froi n the high land of Britannia Cliff, started
fro. i'linccss Royal Island, and reached the westernmost in 7^" 10' N., calling
the c;oup Victoria Archipelago; and iae easternmost, forming the channel to
Jones's Sii ' " North Kent,' in honour of his Royal Highness the late Duke.

Reports 01 ' open water." The reception of the missing dispatches and i ither
causes rendered my retuni to the ship, to look out ior the interests of those still
absent, imperative.

I reached the ship without casualty on the 22d June, after an absence ol'
Hlly-two days, bringmg my men back in good working condition, and not sub-
jects for the list.

Connnander Richards performed his work nobly ; so did Lieutenant Osborn,
his companion.

In the first place, by a curious preconception, he deposited his despatches for
Captain KcUett on 30th April at a point in 76° 32' N., 1 05" 4' M'. ; my point agreed
on being 77° and 105°. After having advanced 120 miles, he met Lieutenant
Hamilton seeking these despatches. He forthwith put him en route to obtain
the dispatclies, to overtake Lieuteiiant Osborn, and by these means place me
in possession (by the return of the " Reliance" sledge) of the important and,
to their Lordships, doubtless pleasing intelligence of the safety of the " Inves-
tigator" and crew at Batiks's Land (as per document directed to be forwarded by
Commander Pullen), having nearly accomplished the i^ " Passage !

Commander ilichards, finding that Commander M'Clintock had poached upon
his ground, instantly came to the deteimination of visiting the " Resolute," and
obtaining all the requisite particulars relative to the " Investigator."

By this course he laid down the shores of the eastern side of Hecla nnd
Griper Ciulf, and on his return came up Byani Martin CMiannel, proving its
connexion with our Polar Basin.

Operations for cutting out were complete, when, having despatched a cutter
by calculation to render assistance, she fortunately met Cominiindcr Richards at
tile critical moment, and, after an absence of ninety-four days, I had the
pleasure of taking him by the hand at the niouth of our canal on the
12th July.

That night, both vessels being afloat and ready, everything \vas embarked ;
and on the 14th July, eleven months from leaving Beechey Island, the vessels,
again free from accident of any kind, were in motion on their proper ele-
ment. Forty-eight hours brought us half-wav to Cape Becher ; two more
days to the land-floe to Ciipe Acland, near Sir H. Inglis Bay ; and to-day, ten
miles beyond Cape Becher, with still ten miles of open water in advance.

Lieut. Osborn rejoined on the 1.5th, after an abHence of nincj -seven days,
having worked for the position said to be attained by Messrs. Goodsir and
Marshall on the south shore, but without meeting any of their cairns or marks,
even until John Parrow Hill bore north (true).

I have directed the " North Star" to take home, at the earliest safe moment,
the oflScers and crew of the " Investigator" should they arrive, which I trust
Captain Kellett will direct; as I do not conceive, looking to their Lordships'
intentions, that any further expense should be incurred by the detention of
that vessel and crew merely for the purpose of awaiting the movement of the
ice for twenty seasons. I earnestly hope, however, that she may fortunately be
released this season, and I have that full confidence in Captain Kellett that
Buch a desirable termination will not be lost sight of, in connexion with the,
return of his own vessel this season.

The circumstance of the progress of Commander M'Clure, and the pro-
bability of Captain Collinson following up his track, must certainly affect my
instructions, and I confidently Itwk for dispatches to guide me in the altered
state of affairs on my return to Beechey Island.

I have said sufficient of my leading officers to make their Lordships aware of
their ability and zeal. At the end of this service I hope to be able to report of
the general conduct and abilities of all the others.

Fully trusting that their Lordr.hips will feel satisfied not only that all has
been done, but that we are ready and willing to do more,

I have, &c.,
■ i Edward Belcheu,

Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron,

No. 10.

Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," July 26th 1853,
Sir, Off Cape Becher.

I HAVE to acknowledge the receipt of your several despatches, from April to
the present, terminating with the recovery of the " North Star," and your
general movements ; and at this hurried moment, and unable to refer to dates,
which will hereafter be duly acknowledged, to inform you that your move-
ments and correspondence have elicited my complete approbation.

I have &c.

Edward Belchkh,
Captain Commanding Arctic Squadron.
To Commander Pullen (present),
Her Majesty's Ship " North Star."

No. 11.

Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," off Cape Becher,
Sir, 2fithof July 1853.

HAviN(i rendered to nie copiec of communications between Captain Kellett,
Commander M'Clure, and myself, forwarded by him;

You will transmit the orii)in.ils to England, either by the first conveyance
which may offer, before the 1st of September ne.\t, or take them with you
should you proceed in pursuance of my orders.

You will also forward full copies of all correspondence between us, likely to
advance the great cause in which we are engaged ; and, in a letter (addressed to
me), your final operations up to the latest moment.

Hoping to be released from this channel before the date iilluded to, I can
only add, if unsucce*"<ful, God speed you and render your passage mild and
pleasant.

Believe me, \c.
To Connnander Pullen (present), Edwauij Bixcin;i{.

Her Majesty's Ship " North Star."

No. 12.

Captain Sir E. Bklciier, C.B., to Cointnaiider Pullen.

By Sir Edward Belcher, K.C.B., Captain of H.M.S, " Assistance," and in
Command of Arctic Expedition.

WiiERKAs it is possible that I may not reach Bcechey Island liefore the 1 st
September ; and it is exiicdient that the crew of H.M.S. " Investigator," if that
vessel be abandoned, be sent to England with all convenient despatch ;

You are hereby required and directed to take I'rom H.M. steam tender
" Intrepid " all the oHiccrs and crew of the " Investigator," as well as any

invalids or supernumeraries sent by C/aptain Kellctt for passage to England, and
0011 after the 1 st Septemljcr as the ice and weatlier will jicrmit, to
England direct.

to proceed, as soon ;

The commander, officers, and crew of the " Investigator" will l)e borne for
pay and provisions under the article in the instructions, not doing duty, unless
reouired by your order.

You will, therefore, according to your seniority and position in this squadron,
continue to exercise the duties entrusted to you, verbal as well ns written, with-
out interference.

If Commander M'Clure should arrive in the " Investigator," you will obey
all orders or instnictions you may receive from him ; but he is aware I'rom my
letter to. him that he is not, directly or indirectly, to interfere with the vessels
under my orders, or any of the vessels which may arrive in connexion in these seas.

On the other hand, should any officer senior to yourself be sent from
England with supplies, or for temporary service, you will of course act as every
good officer should, in obedience to his commands, but informing him at the
same time of these orders, and those under which you are acting, so that any
responsibility may rest on him&elf, by acting contrary to the interests of the
expedition.

If you should be senior, you will request him to leave with you (calling for
his returns) every portion of fuel and other stores, which you are aware arc
required by this command, beyond the quantity requisite for his safe return
under canvas (and steam under five days' emergency, if a steamer) to England.
You will observe every courtesy, and if any objection be raised, require it in
writing, in order that no misconception of emergency may arise, and that your
concession to his objections should meet with due weight from their Lordships.

Of course such an c) ent a? the arrival of a ship of war capable of carrying
home the crew of the " Investigator," will prevent your quitting your post until
further instructions from me.

In this latter case you will detain him until after the 1st September, which I
deem to be the earliest safe moment for a direct passage to England.

I shall make arrans!:emeiits i'or l)eing present mvselfor sending full instructions
before that date.

I give you great credit for your exertions, for the great, and I may say, as an
engineer, j)eculiar tact you have displayed throughout the trying service you
have gone through during the stranding of your vessel, and the means adopted
lor her rec()\ery ; and I would wish that this should form a (li^^tinct letter,
classed under its separate heads, in order that their Lordships and the profession
may understand the sagacity which an ice lil'e in anothei' region truly has
enabled you to bring successfully into play on the late occasion.

I have but barely time to conclude, wishing you a safe and pleasant journey
to your ship; and, if I should from casualty not be enabled to reach or commu-
nicate with you before you depart, a safe voyage and tiic approbation of their
Lordships.

(liven <m board H.M.S. " Assistance," in Wellington Channel, the
26th day of July 1853.

(Signed) KowAnn BriinKii.

No. 13.

At Cape Bcchcr, 14th May 1853.

A party from H. M. S. "Assistance" has arrived at Cape Becher (under
Mr. Cheyne), with orders from Sir E. Belcher to coininimicate persoiiiilly with
the Officer coming here from the " North Star," and in tlic event of that ( )H!ccr
not having arrived by the 14th, to go and examine Sir Robert Inglis Bay then
to return again to Cape Beelier to meet the " North Star" party, who accord-
ingly will wait here until my rcLurn, which will be in about two or three days
from this date.

In the event of their not arrivi , efore the 20th, at 4 p.m., I shall start back
for the " Assistance," which is oni,, Mrce to four days' journey from this Cape.

(Signed) John P. Chkynk.

H. M. Sledge " Victory," at Cape Becher,
Friday, 20th May 1853.

A party imder Mr. Cheyne, accompanied by Dr. Lyall, arrived here for the
second time on the I4th instant, and I have waited mitil this date (the 20th) in
hopes of meeting the party from the " North Star." A party under Mr. (,'heync
arrived here on Sunday the 24th April, but unfortunately only found the small
cask in Captain Pullen's depot, although we dug well and struck the frozen
ground underneath.

This tiivic we have obtained the tin case of letters. The ships are three or lour
days' moderate journey from here. Our first party came here and returned in
six days and a half. Sir E. Belcher left the ship for Jones's Sound, &c. on the
2d May, and intends being absent until the 10th July. Our spring depot started
for the S.W. shore on the 22d March, and finally left on the long parties on the
loth April. All are well in our division. \Ve have lost one of our men,
William Ckitbush, who died from disease of the lungs about the latter end of
February. In this cylinder arc directions for any party coming up to the
" Assistance;" thej' cannot possibly miss their way. There are two casks of
letters buried in Captain Pullen's cairn, nothing else. The cairn on the hill is
one put up by Messrs. Penny and Stuart. We have a depot at the Cape below
this, viz.. Cape Majcndie ; it is placed directly imdcr the hill cairn seen
from here.

(Signed) W. C^in;YNK.

ill

Any party coming from Cape Becher will keep along under the cliffs until
so far up Sir R. Inglis Bay as he can see the ice smoo*' enough to cross, which
is about three to four miles. Make a circuit round the ii nniocks for next ])oint ;
this will take liim well up the bay. He will then gw r^ong the coast beyond
this bay until he comes where the land goes off" to the right hand at right angles ;
this bluff point he will cut across for an island bearin^^' N.N.W. (true), keeping
it outside him (this is Long Island in the chart), (iloing this route he will see
two blurt' cliffs in line ; keep along past these, and then let tlii' chart guide you
(I have made two black dots on the chart where these cliff's arc), as you will see
by the chart you are to keep on in the same line of course until you come to a
cairn, whicli is Repose Point

(Signed) W. Cmkvnk.

No. 14.

Commander Ru iiarhs to Captain Sir Edwaur Bfuukh, (;.B.

Sir, Deception Point, Kkh April 185.^, (> p.m.

1 iiAVF, the lionour to report to _\ou the arri\al of the division under my
command at this Point. Strong north-west winds, low temi ..'ratures, heavy ice,
and an accident, wliieli imfortnnately oecurv"' to the " Heliancc," (with the

light bout) in jMissinj^ " the Queen'8 CiiusewHy," have continued to prevent my

fliicing the first (lep6t within six miles of the position I could have desired ; hut
imve no tear of niuliinff up tor this in future marches
Hitherto we have met with no traces of Sir J. Franklin's ships or parties.
This position, which I have named " Cape Ueccption", for the convenienceof
future reference, is about thirteen miles (true) from the " Cape Ludy I'Vanklin,"
but whether it is the west point of nn extensive bay, about two miles deep, which
lies immeduitely to the weatwMrd oi i. v c.iiic, on the north extuiiieof an island
in the centre of that bay, the thicK weather wj have experienced prevents my
saying positively; I am inclined to think the latter.

The general trend o'' me land is, I believe, rather to the northward than to
the southward of west.

Mr. Grove in the " Enterprizc" (" Dauntless") will leave this to-morrow for
Northumberland Soimd, and I am happy to say, that although the weather has
been severe, we have had no casualties ; and that the conduct of all under my
comiiiand has been entirely satisfactory.

I am, Sec.

George Hkniy Richards,
Commander Her Majesty's Ship "Assistance,"
Commanding South- West Division.

No. 16.

An Account of the Dep6ts of Provisions established by Her Majesty's Ship
" Assistance," per order of Captain Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., Com-
manding the Arctic Searching Squadron.

Her Majesty's Ship " Assistance," 1853.
Cape Majendie, near Cape Becher.

Provisions.

Biscuits -

Concentrated Ruui

Pemican

Dog Pemicaii

Boiled Bacon

Tea

Sugar

Lemon Juice

Salt

Pepper

Preserved Potato

Tobacco -

Half Hogsheads
Barricoe, 6 Gallons
Ditto, 4 Gallons
Iron Hoops
Metal Cases -
Tin Cases

Casks, &c.

.316lbs.

lOgalls.
2201 bs.
210 „
168 „

21 ,.

7 .

4 „

2 „

56 „

Hi,,

4
I
1

32
2

No.

Being 420 Rations.

Biscuit
Preserved Mca
Boiled Bacon

Cape Lady Franklin.
Latitude 76° 40' N. ; Longitude 99° W.

408lbs.
428 ..
■84 „

Prencrvcd I'otuto -

2» „

Maccuroni

10 „

Chocolate I'uste -

fll ,,

Tea - - - -

8 I ,1
26} „

Sugar

■

Concentrated Rum

■

12galls. 27gilla

I'epper

lib. 3ioz.

Muttard

21b. 7o7

Salt

4lb8. 14oz.

Onion I'owder

4ll)s.

Lemon Juice

2galls.
41bH. 9oz.

Tobacco

Casks, Half UogsheadN

7 No.

Barrels

> ,.

Iron Hoops

48 „

Tin Cases

4 „

Being 544 Ru

'ons.

Mount Beautbrt.

Latitude 76° 52' N, ; Longituui

Biscuit

aoiy, ,.

Preserved Meat

aooibs.

Boiled Bacon

168 „

Tea

I2i„

Sugar

Preserved Potato -

25 „

Pepper

14ioz.

Onion Powder

•

2|lbs.

Mustard

lib. 1240Z.

Salt

3lbs. 9o"z.

Tobacco

lOlbs. 12oz.

Concentrated Rum -

Sgalls. 12gillB.

Half Hogsheads

5 No.

Small Casks -

1 »

Iron Hoops

34 „

Tin Cases -

Being 400 Rations.

Loney's Cairn, Southern Entrance to Northumberland Sound.

Biscuit

Preserved Meat

Chocolate raste

Tea

Sugar

Pepper

Mustard

Concentrated Rum

Metal Case

561bs.
40 „

H„
14oz.
5ilbs.
2oz.
4oz.

Igall. 6gill8.
1 No.

Being 56 Rations.

Left for the Crew of the Sledge " John Barrow " ; but now available for
general service.

I. Lewis,

Clerk in Charge.

L «

» u

f i

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

^ .<i^^.

1.0

I.I

1.8

1.25 1 1.4 1.6

►

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STPflET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4503

L<P

:.Tp!Fif,«c-

£4

Arctic Expedition of 1852-3, under the Coininaiid of
Captain Sir Edward Belcher, C.B.

A lijit of tlic Officers and men employed in the Sledging Parties in search of
Her Majesty's ships " Erebus " and " Terror."

AVellington Channel Division, 1853, H.M. S. " Assistance" anci " Pioneer."

WKSTKUN ROIITK.

" Sill Ktl.'Mlll."

" iKiyal au Mort."

No.

Nsnic.

Rank nr Itatlng.

Ship.

Com. liiohards •■

Conniiander - •

Assistance.

2
3
4

i;. Iliimphrii's -
ti. .lefftTies - -
Hichard liajlj -

Capt. of sledpc
Sergeant H. M. -
Jloatswain'a mute

S
C

(ieorgc F.dwanls
lU'iirj Uillctt -
.llllln^^ 1. nonds-

Carpenter's mute
A. It.
A. B. -

Ixmis Head

A. B.

'* Kkli.vm t."
*(io forth iu faith."

No.

Xante.

Rank or Rating.

Ship.

T.inut. Mav

Lieutenant - .

Assistance.

lieniiniiin Voiiup

Capt. of sledfie -

rioneer.

tieorpeKdey

U. M. A.

„

(icor(te Ureen -

U. M.

„

tTnnies Siniiett ■

A. B. -

It. linhinson

A. 11.

„

(ieoiiie Harris -

A. 11. -

F. .M'Corinick -

R. M.

" SiCLKSS.

• Snecesa to the braye."

Name.

Itunk or liating. Ship.

ii!

4 ,

Mr. Herbert

ilust-pll .Mlhnt -

.\rthiir Dicken -
,l«lin Hales • -
Cienr/;L* Cousins -
C. Allen
Henry IJeller -
(r. Youngson -
tlanus I'oyer -
I'v'iiry .loiies
Isaac Stallard -

I Mate

I Capt. of sliilge -

I (apt. of forecastle

I Steker

I Steker -

: A. B. - .

I ship's cook •
I Officer's cook -
• Captain's clerk -

A. B.

li. M.

j\ssistance.
I'ionwr.

Assistance.

-II. .\I. SI.EUGES.

".loiiv llMinow."
" Be of good courage."

No. \ Name.

Rank or Rating.

Ship.

l.ieut. OslK)rn -

liieut. Com.

I'ioneer. <

.losepli Organ -

Capt of sledge •

.•1

Thomas Hall -

(iunner'smate -

Samuel Walker -

Carpenter's mate

•»

(ieorge Wicketts

A. B.

'r. Copeland

A. B. -

W. Jlc Arthur •

A. n.

'•^

Simon l)i.\

R. M. -

»i

No.i

"h.VllV FlllNKl.tN."

■' Speed to the rescue."
Name. I Rank or Rating.

No.

Dr. I.yall
-lames Ueid - -
Thomas Isaacs -
Thomas Marshall ,
.1. Galavunn
.losepli Barnes - >
Owm. Munden -
Samuel Ileayns-
WiUiam Kvsns -
Thomas Mell'sh
Joseph Anderson

Surgeon

Capt. of sledge -

Gunnel's mate -

( 'ox. of launch -

Cipt. of forecastle

(;apt. of forctop -

Bd. R. M. A. -

Coop^'r

A. B. - . I

!\. B. - - ,

!' M - . ;

Ship.

Assistance.

" ENTKRrRIZE,"

" Success to the brave,"

Name.

Rank or Rating.

Mr. Allanl
•lames Kobinson
Thomas Barber -
G. (^uiddin0on-
Henry Tranter -
Richard Bex
Alex. Baillie -
John Clark •
( ieorge Cust.tnce
.lohn (irem
William Wood -

Master - •
Capt. of sledge -
Sail maker
Carpenter's mate
A. B.

R. M. - .
CariK'nter's cri'W
Steward -
St(»ker - •

R. JI.
Ship's cook

Ship.

I'ioneer.
Assistance.

I'ioneer.

EA.STKRN ROUTK.-H. M. SLEDGES

*' Lt'vitK.*iinitor(iii," Captain's

Sledge.

" D.VI NTI.KSS."

'Adversa virtuterepello." — " Bright eyes

for brave hearts."

No,

" Dangers do not daunt me."

No,

Nunif. 1 Hank or Itatiii;;.

Ship.

Name. Rank or Rating.

Ship.

Mr. I^mt'v

Master -

Assistance,

,Mr. Grove - .M;itt

Assistance,

•J

(k'orjrf Stiiros -

('apt. ofsk'dg

' - „

■z

■losiph Beams - Ciipt. of sledge -

U. Unllmnk

Q. M. -

.'1

Thomas Bond - l^. M,

titriirKc WcM.l -

Capt. ot hold

Isaac Harnett - Capt, of maintop

•loHcph tiruliiim*

.^. B.

„

Chris, lioiul - 1 Carpenter's crew

''hark's fcjniith -

A. B.

.las. Macarlney - , A. B.

Cnrnrlius t ii-ldcr

A. B.

.■

W. .^;ar^hall - 1 .\. I! .

W. \\nfinQ\i - 1 A. IJ.

■

li. I'ripiliart - i 1,'. M.

" l'l.ltf*Kvnt.vNrl;."

" I'ersjvere and Prosper."

Jlr, I'yni, II, .M. S. " Assistance,

•'EvTriiruTzi;," "Siu Fiiwcis Bauinu,"

" Success to the brave." " Bear and forlwar."

Jlr, Aliard, II. M. .S. " I'ion.er." | .Mr. Uichardi, II, M, S. " I'ioneer.

of
td
■w
)n

:d
of

aixiy itct oi uui iiusu Ket-i, we procccdca towards unttitlis Island, having pre-
viously deposited a depot for ninety-one men for seven days, on the east point
oi' tho hurhour. 1' ound fast ice l^ctween Gritttths and Comwallis Islands ; passed

L 3

* I

lOo

1° Kclrno /.luuf ami by Str K Krlfhsr in 7S'J0 A'

All>ril I"

X O It T II

i,lM»,; C O HK WAI.I.

77'^

^iifit ii'i'tii

7«

IWff<'"" I''^

i (.„... vv>.-^^

/•■,„,„.„/;,/,c^/-'i>'^i'riii>i''i

('iVK..',ll I

l',l|l<' I'.UlllS

f *

>;.Kr

.\...(i„„

. ^r'^^JIuii.-rx Kir

l.irnmlQ '■*\'r* '

■■'•"<»

T M I'. o I i; i; x s
<■ II A .\ -v I-; I,

/'/.». ('I rv*,/ /'I I itf'lmti i*i'r<*iy ,'
li.iiiiuil

( 0 R N W A I, '. I S
I S r A \ 1)

M./r. I

ll.wlrli

Hrrhtl.i
lliiihi

(• K.Tlu'^^r /'•'•'''■'I

.\'f 7/(1/1/. I /

(;7,',„</v

Diiii.l.uiTi CVv.U,(;t/,i/

';■.■',/ /A j^^-" .)/</'

\ Biiilli.- I
/ IhiimlKiii

Vf. 'I'l

„#i>«S

,k:

.u.'"

^- '■'"'"■■' '^^1m..'^'''*

■^^'hlltfxl

'"■'■ /v
.Wcm/i

l^'/ ',<•/!, /v

100

^-7' ^>^' V

I .U.i/i/.iIuVj

ll I" .

»5
A' o It r H

""•^^:ir

■ft

.(HtU^-yf:>i r„^f

yj',.

Hi.-li.inli I '"

C';i|ii' llUiiis

rihinnui

p, ,-, . I..„,w,.„.. /'■

JPMiJr Of' TflE mSi^VERIES OF

<>:y.

Commntuhnff tin Stfuadfvn. in t^. Arctic Sewi, in
Search of !

^ -xym^/^z/y yy. ' -xy

f.orwy I

1852T;ii

77°

l»PIM.I,l.s'l OyV.Ul/V'"''/ /

\ Ki.illl-
r' ll.'iiinltoii

I (■r,ili,i/]i^' III' iriKiiiU 1,111,

''■',-,. '>"'/i4H4it<n r

/' Srpt,

|,rri

(/!■

,-H''

.W I'fiilllilin

^ (trCfifit'^ Dfhmrn

•I- .

-Tin. /^fWx" iWn,- 10>^ /.I.V

lw,;i t'l

N O R r U 1) E V () iV

I S L A \ 1)

M'f ',:,,. I.-,.

fi;</,.v ,ui,v(.!i i.-.'h ms

ilr,iiiiii)ui /(> Hlf)f" [,ii

76"

f.'dm/'i

vv i; I, I, I .\ <; r () .\

' MAX \ K I. JrOsi,.,.;,

'htuilt!yh',Ji
liiU-i '

.1'

,tfitf yisUffl 'I tiiii'ti It ir'-lnii,i H,
I'ltuf ■iiitl livl I'liiii.s ' V^

^^-->( 7,V.v.-.

Wii«<j'i/r/ AVir

i'ay iV fioi. 1-iJ. It. -i .' vueur,

■"!*■
.1

Mr. I'viT., U. M. S. " A8.i.t.nee." | Mr. AU»d, II. M. S. " l'io,u-.r.- | Mr. Uich.rdm H. M. S. " Vion.cr.

Skciietary ov the AnMiiiAi/rv to Cuptiiin Sir Kowahd Hki-cMkh, C.B.
( 'oinniundcr of Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " AHsisttince."

Sir,
I AM eoininimded

October "th ISn.'J.
by my Lords Coiiiniissioiiers of the Admiralty to

acknowledge the receipt of your several despatches, the last dated 2()th July,
oft" ('ape Becher, detailing the jm)ceedings of the scjuadron under your command
employed in tiie search for Sir .loiin Franklin, and to express to you their

)ye(l
snips

Lordships entire approval of your arduous and zealous exertions in this
service, and to ac(iuaiiit you tiuit tlK-y hine received with much satisfaction
your report of the good conduct of all employed, more particularly whilst
undertaking the extended sledge journies, as well to the westward, under Com-
manders Richards and Osborn, as those to the northward and eastward under
your own immediate command.

I am desired to add that further reports from you will be looked for with
much interest.

I am, \c.,

(Signed) W. A. B. Hamilton.

VII.

Despatclu's from Ciiptiuii Kelk'tl, C.B., of II.AF. Discovery Ship
"Resolute," and Conimiiiider Piillen, of H.M.S. "North Star."

No. 1.

Captain Kellktt, C.B., to Captain Siii E. Bki.chek, C.B.

ILM.S. "Resolute," Winter Quarters, Becchey Island,
Sir, 7th May 1853. (Received 7th October.)

I BEG to transmit, in a condensed Ibnii, a report of my proccedinga since
parting comnany on 14th August 1852.

At 2 I'.M. on the 15th, after taking on board all the coals the " North Star"
could spare, we left in tow of " Intrepid ;" were stopped by ice at Cape Hotham
on the same evening. We found there two casks ot biscuits, in good coudition,
on the beach, and I leit a boat with gear complete at the same place.

On leaving Becchey Island I ])repared depots to ensure our retreat in case of
uccidcnt, intending to place them at Assistance Harbour, Cape Cockl)urii, and
Point (iritliths. — ( )ii tlie morning of tlie Uitii the ice broke up, leaving a narrow
lead along the land. In approaching Assistance Harbour we grounded on
a shoal otVits eastern point ; tlie water left us before we could get off, witiionly
Bcven feet under our stern, lying on port-bilge ; tlie ice came down and threw
us over on our starboard bilge with great violence; we narrowly escaped
being destroyed. On getting off, which we did at midnight, with the loss of
sixty feet of our false keel, we proceeded towards (iriffiths Island, having pre-
viously deposited a dejiot for ninety-one men for seven days, on the east point
of the liarl>nur. I'ound last ice between (iriffith-* and Coniwallis Islands; passed

L 8

) I i I'll

lo the southwardotCirilliths, 1111(1 dciK)sitcd n ircoid on the S.W.eiid. By mid-
night on the 17tli we iTaihed I.owtlur Islniid ; hire we were stoj)|)ed until the
niorningofthe'iSth. I \viiMi|i|)iehensive;it one time that we iiaii reaehed our winter
quarters; open water eould lie seen from ('ornwalli> Island, hut no possihility of
pettinjf into it. Leuvint; l^owther on the morning of the 28tii, we were fortu-
nate enough to get into this open water at ai)out .') p.m., jjassing sevin miles
west of Griffiths Island, and next day at 2i>.vi. landed a depot of fourteen days
for ninety-one men near Cape Cockhnrn. We found a lead of about five miles
broad, running direetly west from ('ape Coekburn, wliieh we followed, and
reaehed the south point of Myain Martin Inland at 4 a.m. on ."Ust August. The
fast ice extended from Ciraham Moore Hay t > the eentre of Hyani .Murtia
Island, the pack close on its south point.

On the 1st September, with a fie-li north wind, the puck eased of!" the point,
leaving a narrow passage ; we got |)ast, and into a tine open lead five or six
miles broad, after a sharp beat along the west side of the inland ; at HAO p.m.
sighted Melville Island, and at 4 a.m. on the 'id, landed a depAt at I'oint Grif-
fiths. No ice in sight along the land to the northward in Hyani Martin
Channel.

We were agaui stopped about five miles west of Skeiii' Hay, of Hevcrly Inlet,
until noon on the 6th (while at this position se\iral musk oxen were shot, and
some hares), when we were enabled to slip through an opening info the water
in Hridport Inlet, which we were tantalized by seeing all the tinii' but unable
to reach. At 5 a.m. on the 7th, we madefast to the " fast ice." running off Winter
Harbour; there I left a dep6t for my travelling parties, and one for any people
that might reach it, to bring them on to me. as 1 found I conld not winter
there. On the niorning of the 8th I left it, and proceeded easterly, intending
to go into Skene Hay, which I considered a good placi to winter. On the
morning of the 9th I tried to get in, but the inlet was comiiletely blocked with
ice. No time was to be lost, — the young ice forming fast, which, unassisted by
steam, I could not have got through. The same morning I again proceeded
westerly into Hridport Inlet, and made 'list to the old ice between Dealy Island
(easterly), and tlu' main, ('oinmeiiced nnmediately to cut in; our position is
900 yards true east of Dealy Island, in thirteen fathoms of water. On the
loth we were frozen in; commenced landing a dejiot in Dealy Island, and pre-
paring for our winter.

On the 22d th" travelling j)arties started to hi} out depots lor their spring
journeys.

Lieutenant Mecham, with Mr. Nares. as auxiliary, to cross the land at
Winter Harbour, for the search of the S.W . of Melville Island.

Lieutenants Pini and Hamilton, with Mr. I)e Hray as auxiliary, to place depot
at Cape Providence for the search of Hanks's Land, east and west.

Commander M'Clintock proceeded on ilie I Itli across the land for Iledaand
Gri|KT Hay, to ulace a depot for the search of N.W. Melville Island coast. A
depot hadalreaiiy been placed at I'oint (iriftiths for the reiide/voiis mute, which
it was my intention to take charge of myself.

All these officers succeeded in placing iluir (iejiots, and returned without
casualty. The overland parties had desperate work, which could not have been
performed without the carts ; they might be improved. ( 'ommandcr M'( lintock
nad thirty-eight days' travelling. Lieutenant Mecham t\\intv-ti\e days, the
others fifteen days.

On the 14th October Lieutenant .Me-'liaiii. on his ntuni through Winter
Harbour, visited the Harry Sandstone, and found on it a record from Commander
M'Clure, deposited in April 18.52, only five month- before our visit. To send
a party at that late period on the chances of meeting liim was impossible, the
ice in the strait was so broken up; traversing it even with our liglit iioat not
practicable. I send the record found, with his chart.

On the 20th of Octol)er we lost suddenly, from disease of the heart, Thomas
Mobley, R.M., a inost excellent man; and on the I2th December, Cieorge
Drover, captain of tiie fi)recahtle in the " Intrepid," of consumption ; with this
exception, we have Ix-en very healthy ; not the slightest appearance of scurvy ;
indeed for weeks without a man on the list.

(i(K)(l provision** mid ii sulfitii'iicv, witli I'oiistimt work on \\\v Hot' or open uir,
will Jilways ensure irood liciiltli in this cliinntc.

Our sc'liool, tlu'iilrifuis, \c. wrrc ii(lniiriil)ly ('oiiducted hy the orticrrs.

Our winter li;is liccn \(m\ scvci', conipMriuf;- it with t'orincr voyiigts, witli a
gri-at iuuount of wind ; hut the huicr I'ppoius to he I'uus'.'d by our locality.

Suppijsinij; tiiat ('(iiuMiini'U'r MH'luri' would di'scrt his ship at the furiii'st
tnonu'ut this year, I di'spatchcd ;i party on tiic Kttii of March tor tlic Harhour
of Mercy, temperature 50 , certainly without the slightest hopes of catching him.
The party consisted of ■.even men to oiu' sledge; two men and six dogs under
Dr. homville to hiing hacU rapidly to me any news ; all under the orders of
Lieutenant I'im.

Mr. I'iin's sledge unfortunately hroke down about fifteen miles from Cape
Dundas. Mr. I'im gallantly went torward with the dogs, und reached the
Harbour of .Mercy on the (Jth ot April ; had it not been for this accident he
would have been there by the 1st. and found tlii're Connnander .M'Clure in the
" Fn\e8tigator," preparing to despatch a |)art of his crew,— some for Cape
Spencor, and a party by .M'Keii/ie river.

All my parties lett the ship on 4th April, to search the tbllowing coasts : —

Connnander M'Clintock, with .Vir. I)e liray and eighteen men, crossed over
the land into llec'ia and Ciriper Hay; provisions sutticient to enable him, with
one party, to pursue the search to the \.VV. for ninety days. He reached the
opposite shore on the 9th, all in high sj)irits and without an accident.

Lieutenant Mecham, with Mr. Nares and fourteen men, crossed at Winter
Harbour to follow the coast westerly. From this party I have not heard since.

Lieutenant Hamilton, with Mr. Roche and fourteen men, crossed into Hecla
and Griper May to |)lact' a depot to search north-easterly along Sabine Island,
as I think they will be more likely to reach the rendezvous point by that route
than by Byam .Martin ( hamu I. I have great hopes that this partv will have
success in rinding something of the missing ships. I'hey are certam to meet
your parties, if Wellington Channel is not a blind one.

On 19th of .\pril my Manks's Land party returned, and with them Captain
M'C'lure and party from " Investigator." You can fancy, better than I can
paint, my delight on shaking hands with him. His despatch will convey to you
the effects of Mr. I'im's appearance on his side ol' the strait.

On 'id May his second party, consisting of four officers and twenty-four men,
arrived, all in a vi ly bad condition, — nearly all affected with scurvy. They
ai'e now, on the good diet, rapidly improving.

Finding tiiese men in such a bad condition (two men died since Captain
M'Clure left on the 7th o; .Vpril, and one on the day before Lieutenant Pirn's
arrival there,) I despatched Dr. Doniville and a party over the strait with orders
to assist Commander M'Clure and the surgeon of the " Investigator," in survey-
ing the remaining otiicers and men; and I have directed ("ommander M'Clure
(who leaves this ship at the same time) to desert his ship, if the medical officers
consider his crew unlit to stand anot'ier winter; and also, as I consider the men
have doni' their work, to leave liei . 'le has not more than twenty volunteers,
which is the least number that sli. >;uld be navigated with. It would be a
glorious thing to get her through this way, the other way she cannot go.

This afternoon Mr. Roche, mate, with ten men from my crew, and two
officers from " Investigator," leave for Meechey Island, to go home the rirst
ojjportunity. The men I send from my crew are men that I could not send to
" Investigator." The others arc all absent travelling.

Should Commander M'Clure not leave his ship, " Intrepid" will take all
" Investigator's " crew, with directions to touch at Beechey Island for orders,
and then straight home, with a recpiest to their Lordships that she may be sent
tome next year, accompanied by a vessel with provisions (solids), clothing,
and fuel ; remaining myself for the issue of her attempt to itoss. Should it be
found necessary to leave iier, \\v will all go easterly for Beechey Island, leaving
the depAt here for (Japtain CoUinson, of whom not a word has been heard or
tracing t'ound by Connnander M'Clure's travelling parties.

Do not think of waiting for me yourself. Leave me a vessel at Beechey
Island, and a good depot, sufficient to place us on full allowance when we get
there, and to sustain us for a winter.

It will Ik' necessary for " North Star" to have her water complete, and us

II 1:1

iri

1'^

nunv caskH as she inii fill iH-sidos, in iciulincss to supply any vi'ssol tliiit may
tench her; to Iw Imlliistt-d, and nil tlu' provisions slu- can spiiiv laiuU'd in u
lecun- (k'|W)t, iTiidy tor a start, and all will lu- well.

All my travi'lling parties lift in the liifxlu'st spirits, in the lu'st possiide con-
dition, and adinirahly i'<|uippfd. I am most anxious for the result of their
journi'VM. If Sir Jolin Franklins ship-* are ever to he found, I think they will
now. Me assured we will ha\t' tluni lutw* w us.

Commander M'Chue, in cominf; over from Hanks's Lmd with a weak partv,
was ohlijfed to alter his u)0(le of Iravellini;. Ih' travelled and rested tor six
hours alternately, and made a wonderful jnurney from ship to ship in twelve
days— a distance, ns the crow tliex, of 1()7 miles. Mr. M'l)oUf;r.ll, auxiliary to
Lieutenant Hamilton, to whon\ I have yiven the N.K. Saliine route (not heini^
able to go myself), has this monunt returned, havinu; gone over the land to
Hechi and (iriper Ihiy. a distanie of torty miles in a straight line, in thirty-one
and a half hours, travelling with heavy sledges, -JOO pounds per man, and
returned in twenty-six and a half hours, which was done, we thought most
rapidly, in tifty-one hours, moditying the routine of tra\elling in this way: —
•turting at 1 I'.m., travelling until 1(1; lireakfasted, tented, and rest four hours;
travelled four hours, dined, and rested for nine. In the old way the whole
jouniey was made from the time of starting to hmch, which was a miserable
affair; too cold to stand still, men getting chilled and stiff". After hmch little
was done though travilling three hours — men simply hanging in their belts,
and getting thoroughly fagged. Another means of extending our journeys we
have adopted, the result of which has not yet appeared : — each extended party
has a small sledge, wiighing twelve pounds, five feet long, six inches nigh,
wliich we <all a satellite, ca|)able of carrying for three men (tlie oificer and two
of the most active of his crew) s'ven days' provision-, their sleeping-hags and
floorcloth for covering. On gettin'j within tour days of the end of their journey
they leave their tents with the resi \^\' tlu- crew, to repair their boots, mocassins,
&c., and give them a spell ; travel i.-.-av as fast as |)o>sible, certainly twenty
miles a day. By this means their journey will be extended I'orty miles, and
who knows but that the la>t mile may be the most fortunate one?

It is very painful to me to be obliged to send away Mr. Uoehe with thi.<(
party ; it looks as if I wanted to get rid of him, or that I could most easily
spare him. On the contrary, he is one of my mo;.t etiicieiit officers. IIi- was
auxiliary, with ten men, to Bank>'s Land party, in the almost forlorn hope
journey, and brought back his men without accident. lie has since been over
the land as far as Cape Mudge, in Ilecia and (jri|)ei' Bay, and is now going in
cliarge of ten men and two olficers to Heechey Island. .\ny man that does
his work I know will have your intinence; you will therefore, I am assured, use
it for him in the proi)er cpiarter. His crew think they are disgraced by being
sent ttway; not so, they are all excellent men; their only fault is this eat.

You will be pleased to hear, and their Lor(lshi|)s will have again to express
their satisfaction, at my having so goo«l an opinion of my oflieers; they have
all vied with each other in the perlbrmance of tluir duty, and also in pleasing
me. My next letter w ill show w hat stuff they are made of.

Before leaving Kngland I sent the services of Mr. Richards, my eli'rk in
charge, to their Lordships, with a re(|nest that they would not forget he was an
old officer. His conduct and attention to his duty since has been such, that I
can fearlessly state their Lordsliips, by his |)roiMotion, would be making a
valuable addition to the li>t of pur>ers, and it would be highly pleasing to me.

Should these ships not break out this season, it will be necessary for the
" North Star" to send a uarty to meet mine at Cape (.'ockburn next spring, with
full information of all that is going on and what has been done. I will bo
there myself if possible, and await her jiarty ; if they keej) the coast-line on
board we cannot miss each other. Leaving Beechey Island on the Itli April,
they will have ample time to return, and have mild weather. Mine will leave
at the same time.

In requesting their Lordships to send out more provisions, by all means
demand Hogarth's ])reserved meats and vegetables, with a goodl'v supply of
Mr. Allsoj)'s ale, which has kept exceedingly well, and is eagerly sought after
by all; there is more virtue in a ])int of 'it than a gallon of rum. ' It is so
valuable that I now mix it with home brewed, which produces an excellent

bcvcriige. Mr. Allsop has rcrtniiily (l;)nr \is jiiHticc in the rcprescntntion of
the ale he siipnlicd. Thi* glu/e soup and dried vegutnhleH arc also admirable
and mont useful — Sec Report on Provisionn.

I send you an abMtraet of our cxpcnHes of fuel, ^e. during a summer month,
our first month in winter quarters, and our coldest month. I left " North
Star" with more than thirty-six tons of eoals, so that with proper economy she
has omple for the period she is provisioned for.

I cannot enter into all the detail of my voyage, hut I have done so where I
thought it would he uselul or necessary. What a ;;rand consummation it would
be if you found the missing ships! — any of the people, from the evidence of the
state " Investigators" came here in, with abundance of game about thcni and /
near them is impossil)le.

Trusting that you luid those under your command arc happy, ond in the
enjoyment of good health,

I have the honour to he, Sec.

IIknuv Kki.i.ktt, Captain.

Mr. Chandler, my boatswain, whom I send in the party to Heechey Island,
I have to rc(piest their Lordships will be pleased to allow to remain at Woolwich
until the arrival of the " Uesolutc," to assist in returning the boatswain's stores.

l''orming two of tljc same party are Abraham Siury, cooper, and John (loodey,
carpenter's mate, both excellent men ; the former come from the arsenal ut
Woolwich, and is desirous of again serving there ; the latter, who is un elderly
man, with a large family, is also desirous of entering one of the Govern-
ment establishments. I beg to submit the same for the approval of their
Lordships.— H.K.

No. 2.

Captain Kkllktt, C.B., to Connnander M'Cliue.

■ Her Majesty's Ship •'Uesolutc" in Winter Quarters, D?aly Island,

Sir, Bridporl Inlet, 9Hi March IS");}.

As it is possible that you may not have broken out last year, I have
determined on sending an early party to comnumicute with you.

From the officer in command of this jiarty, you will receive a copy of the
orders addressed to Sir Kdward Helcher, C.H., who conunands the Arctic Expe-
dition, the western portion of which is under my orders. These orders will
show you what their Lordships hope may be effected by this expedition. The
chart that you will receive at the same time will show yim what has been done

by the grand exertions of the officers in Captain Austin's expedition, through
Commander M'Clintock's record at Winter Harbour.

his incomparable arrangements, with which you arc partiully acquainted by

Undoubted traces of " Krebus " and "Terror" having passed the winter of
184r>-46 at Heechey Island, were found by Captains Austin's and Penny's
expeditions. Traces were also found some few mile^ up Wellington Channel.
Thf s' i."uccs Sir Edward Delcher has followed up with a fine prospect of being
well a<lvanced this season. Commander M'Clintock examined the strait I)eforc
we parted company on flic 11th August last, and found wafer for at least thirty-
five miles up it. Mr. I'enny reports having, iu IH.'il, found much open water in
the northern part of this strait, but its throat was chokeil with twenty-five miles of
ice, separating him from it, and which unfortunately hindered his following it.

I shall now give you an account of my doings since parting company with
Sir Edward Helcher on llth August, at lleeehey Island.

I reached Lowther Island on 17th August, not without a little rough play
with the ice. There I was detained until the 2>Sth of the same month, and almost
despaired of getting farther west, but retreat I would not ; however, we were
favoured with very strong N.W. winds during our detention, which opened a
lead; in this we got as far east again as (iritiiths Island, and eventually into
open water, which we carried along the land as far as the south point of Byara
Martin Island. There we were detained a couple of days, and again for two or
three more a few miles west of I'everlv Inlet; and final! v reached the floe edge

■ii:,

»
! !

of Winter Harliour on 7tli Ser'>^('iiil>i'r. The faat ice extended thun rut point
of File IlarlNmr due Hout!., unto the |)tirullcl o( I'oint Ileum, leaving (ivr niilet
of lie between us iind tin- siuulMtone ni the hurlMinr, on wliieh your record wm
fuund i not at thi;* time, but in OetoU'r, by one of my autumn travelling
partner:*, returning from laying down a dejiot in Liddon (lulf.

While at thin Hoe edge we had as nuiih um we eould <lo to hold nn by it. I
determined, us I could not winter there, to go to Skene Hay, which I had
examined Iwforc when detained near it, l)Ut to leave u small dcpAt at Fife
HiirlK)ur, to carry uny party that might reach it on to me. I left ten daya for
•cvcnty men.

I was so busily engaged landing the depAt, and indeed it was conNideretl so
improbable that any party from the weNtward could reach this idncc, that the
examination of Wnitcr IlarlH)ur was never unce thought of Ity any one, as
Coiiunandcr M'Cliiitock had visitetl it Wforc.

I failed in gettii.g into Skene May, us it was perfectly blocked with ic«'; and
finally, on l(»th SeptcmUT, cut info the fast tloc south and east of Uealy Island,
about J of a mile Irom it. Commander .M'Clintock started next day to examine
the land into Ileclu and (iripcr Huv, intei^ding to start again with the greatest
portion of his crew, to j)lacc a depAt at I'oint Nius, or us much further as
practicublc. lie left on the Hth.

On "2"id of the same month, (with the excepti<m of three working but disabled
men,) my crew left the ship for the purpc^seol laying depots for spring travelling.
Conuuander M'Clintock hud thirty-eight davs, and my people twcnty-fi\e days.
Travelling in the nutunm, all having succee(le<l in plucuig their di'piAts in good
positions — Conunander M'Clintock, his at Point Nias ; my first lieutenant
(Mccham) his at Cape Iloppner ; my second and third lieutenants (l*im and
Ilaniilton,) theirs for the examination of Manks's Land nt Cain- I'roviilence.

You have stated in your letter to their Lordships, dated '2()th July IH^d, that
you h;id provisions for the autumn of 1M,')|. Yon arc also fortunate in having
game and firewood about yi>U, your crew in high spirits and healthy. I have
therefore no apprehension about your safety ; but you will now have been three
winters in the ice ; you w ill therefore, i think, have formed your plan of
operations, whether to leave your ship and come to me, or to run a chance of
breaking out in the uutunui, and procec<ling south into Hehring Strait, ur east
according to circumstances.

It is with diffidence I offer a remark on the navigation to a man of your
experience, but there is a great advantage in local knowledge. My opinion is,
that, from your present position, were you to i^et adrifl in tlie pack, you would
inevitably Ik; carried cast ; but I am also of opinion, that you would not get
released, as the whole of the ice that is carried through by the current from the
westward is forced by the almost constant northerly winds down into the great
bay formed by the land discovered by .Mr. Wynniatt and Captain Ommanney.
The latter rejwrts in his journal, this coast is very low , apparently shoul, w ith
very heavy piled up ice ofl' it. No ship has any chuncc of gcttinij; along it.
From Cape Walker to Mr. Wynniatt's farthest the coast stands near!}- at right
angles to the western mouth of the strait.

The officers I send on this service have directions to place themselves under
your orders. By one of them, the surgeon, (unless you require his services,)
you will without delay be good enough to despatch bucK again to inc informatioti
under the following heads : —

1st. The health of yourself, officers, and crew since your last despatch from
Winter Harl)our, and their jiiesent state.

2d. Your intended movements.

.3il. The quantity of provisions you have remaining, and the probable time
they will last at your present consumption.

4tli. Wlkther you have any information respecting " Enterprise"; if not,
your opinion relative tolur. She wintered somewhere in the ice in lHr)l-r/J,
and nothing had been received from lier up to the date of our sailing in April I xr>2 ;
in fact, any infonnation that would be interesting to their Lordships or the
public, as I may meet some of Sir Kdward Belcher's parties, or I may send a
party to Beechey Island.

5th. What can I do for you ?

I have not been equally fortunate with yourself in my crew. I have lost two :

yt8

one, a marine, 'llioniaa Moh'..'y, (nuMenly, and the otht-r a seninan, (uorgc
Dmvcr, ot'coniiumption. Willi tliiH fxccption, nil wt-ll.

Gniiic is pretty altuiulnnt hm>. Wc have killed tweiity-fivc rmiftk oxen, a few
n-indier, hnri-R, and ptarniigiui.

On the back of the orders you will find ii list of the articles I int»Mi(' to leave
in depot on the south point of Dealy Isliind, the <;rriifer piirt aireiuh landed j
Hovcn inonthH for sixty-six men. In addition to this I placed in depot coming
along —

7 days for •)! men at Anxistancc IlarlMuir,
II days for JM men near Cape ('ockhurn,
10 days for "<> nien, Winter Harbour.
There in also a lM)at and a couple of casks of biscuit at Point Hotham, the
" North Star" stationary depot at Hcechey Island.

Heforc leavin); l'.nf;land, Mr. Wynniatt was made a lieutenant, and Mr. Paine
• purser. I am sorry 1 have not similar information for yourself.

Any infornuition tliat I have omitted in this will be easily obtained from my
officers, who will f^ive you the history of our country since you lell.

It now oidy remains for me to congratulate you most heartily on your health
and s\u'ccss. You liave not found any of the missint,', but you have shown (U'cr
a great extent of coast where they have not been.

Your discovery of the North-^Vesf Passage will, I feel, be highly pleasing to
♦' cgood people in England, particularly as the discovery, which has cost much in
lives and treasure, has been made known by the energetic perseverance of their
own officers, and they are not slow to reward prominent merit.

I have, &c.

H. Kku.btt, Captain.

rf I

No. 3.

Commander M'Cluui: to Captain Hknuv Kkli-ett, C.B.

II. M. S. " Uesolute," Dealy Island,
Sir, 2(\ May 1853.

I UAVK great pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of your letter of the
9th March last, which reached nu' in the Bay of Mercy, Haring Island, through
the ])ersevering exertions of Lieutenant I'im, under circumstances most arduous,
difficult, and trying, unsurpassed in Arctic tr:i\elliMtr, from the early period in
which the. journey was undertaken, with the thermometer ranging from —10" to
— 50", arriving, without the slightest injury from the excessive cold, on the Gth
ultimo. I would, wert it possible, endeavour to C(mvey the state of feeling
which animated not only myself, but every soul, when his sudden and niost
unexpected appearance on the Hoc, about 200 yards tVom the ship, was remarked:
All description nmst fall below the reality. Only imagine, if you can, a whole
crew, which had to this moment no idea ol my ship but their own being within
the limit of these dreary regions, cut off from the world, their isolated situation
(and in defiance of all exertion), a little despondent, when accidentally a
Htnini>e, remarkable, ami solitary figure is seen nij)idly advancing, showing

festicuiation.s of friendship similar to those used by the Esipiimaux, black as
axbus from the smoke created by cooking in his tent. My surprise, I may
almost add disma}', was great in the extreme. I paused in my advance, doubt-
ing who or what it could be, whet lier a (K'nizen of this or the other world ; however,
the surprise was momentary. " I am Lieutenant Pirn, late of ' Herald.' Ca]>tain
Kellett is at Melville Island." And as the apparition was thus indubitably dis-
covered to be solid real Knglish flesh and blood, to rush at and seize him by
the hand was but the first impulsive gush of feeling. Tiie heart was tea full
for the tongue to articulate, as this dark stranger communicated his errand of
mercy. The sick, forgetting their maladies, jumped from their liauunocks; the
healthy their despondency — all flew to the only iiatchway that was open, and in
far less time than it takes nic to write this, all hands were on deck. Such a
scene can never be forgotten; all was now life, activity, and joyful astonishment.
In the twinkling of an eye the whole crew were changed ; but I shall cease to
say more, for I might write much, but never could, even faintly, convey the

M 2

most remote idea of the sensation created by this most opportune and provi-
dcntiiil arrvial of your relieving party.

I liavc heartily to congratulate you on reaching your present position, which
appears to me the most eligible for an early start that could be desired. The
wintering either in deep bays or harbours is, in my opinion, to be avoided, a
weather shore and open coast being preiemule; as the first opportunity for opera-
tions may be seized upon, which the beinj? blocked in harbours would most
certainly retard.

The laving out of numerous, and in some positions, large depots both in the
way through the straits and by travelling parties, has rendered the service of all
cinploved in these regions, should circumstances compel them to evacuate their
vessels, a matter of comparative ease, and removes every apprehension as to
their ultimate safety, a feeling which is entertained by myself and participated
in by niy whole crew, animating all from the approximation to our present
position, of cheerfully awaiting the result of the ensuing summer in expectation
of liberating tiie vessel and bringing her to join you under Melville Island, a
circumstance I consider far from improbable, although from a remark in your
letter, it is evident that the report of Captain Ommamicy, showing that the
shores of Prince Albert's I^and towards Cape Walker stands nearly at right
angles to the western month of the strait, has made you somewhat doubtful, as
you are apprehensive, should we get from our present position, that the ship
would neccisarily be set to the eastward in the pack, and most likely be thrown
upon that coast, — with respect ti) which, I can only remark, that on the 2tth
September IS")!, when running I'rom the Bay of Mercy, I had every reason to
believe, from the loose appearance of the ice (which was then ropidly setting
before a strong N.W, wind into Barrow Strait), that had we fortunately reached
thus far twelve hours earlier, we should have succeeded in crossing to Melville
Island wiiiiout diHiculty ; us also in the month of October, on a change of wind
to th'.' S.K., the entrance cleared as far across as could be remarked by the eye
from Banks's Land ; but in 1852 the ice did not break up in the Polar Sea, con-
eequentiy that in the Bay of Mercy and in Barrow Strait could not move, from
which causes nothing certain can be calculated upon in tiie navigation of these
waters, everything depending on the season and direction of the wind.

The exceeding early rise in the temperutvue induces me to believe that the
ensuing summer will be very favourable for navigation, and that we may confi-
dently anticipate a release this year, but of course it depends upon circumstances,
over which no control can be exercised ; but the experience of three previous
seasons indicates this to be a remarkal)ly forward year.

I now proceeil to answer your intirrogations ; tir>t, with respect to our sanitary
state since May \Hh-2, the liealth of myself and otlicers has been cxceUent, with
the exce])tion of .Messrs. Wymiiatt and Sainsbury, (mates.) The latter has
suti'ered inueli from a pulmonary eomj)laint tliat subjected him to treatment
soon after entering tiic ice in IS'^O, and has now assumed very unfavourable
symptoms, ami he is now not considered sniliciently strong i'or removal.
The crew has been worked hard in ballasting and watering during the months
of May, June, and .Inly, which reduced them in flesh considerably. A supply
of venison, allowing an issue three times a week at the rate of a pound and a
halfjier man, sii>fain;'d them admirably in liealth until this duty was completed.
The elVects of short allowance were, however, visible during the winter ; our
sportsmen not being able to i'unii.-li, in the early part of it, above one meal of
venison weekly, conseipiently many were attacked by scurvy ; but since the com-
niencemetit of the present yeai', ^ve ha\ e fortunately been al)le to increase the issue
of that nutritious food. Although this has been a most rigorous and trying winter,
their cniiiiilaints gradually suli^ided, and on he 1st of April there were but three
confined to their hammocks, and all iu better condition than I could have
anticipated.

Up to the Ith of April our mnnbcrs were undiminished, which circumstance
is of itself a very si rung ])n)iif ol' t!ie liealth we have all enjoyed. I, however,
regret to say tliat, on the night of tiie ."ilh of .April, a sudden and unexpected
event oecuiTrd in the death o!' John Boyle, who uniiappiiy drank off the con-
tents of some medicine bottles that he was (liieeted t(» wash, which brought on

m acute attack of diarrlura at l.liO i' *.* y)*!*-]* if

(•..»„ii.

And yesterday I received intelligence from Dr. Armstrong, that Kerr, gunner's

I '

mate, and J. Ames, A.B., had died. The former had been long suffering from
dropsy ; the latter but a few days from disease of the heart.

Having now discharged all the most weakly part of the crew into this
vessel, I find there remains but one in the list, from a tumour formed in the
throat, and that the others arc in high spirits, from which (and the consequent
increase of provisions, I shall now be enabled to issue, when coupled with the
mild weather that has for some time continued, with the certainty of wild fowl
and other game during the summer, as well as sorrel,) I have every reason to
believe that our sanitary state will be better than the corresponding period last
year, as we have no arduous work to perform ; the ordinary duties of the ship
being all that is required.

Second, with regard to my intended movements, I cannot do better than refer
you to my dispatch to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, written pre-
vious to my knowledge of your being in this vicinity, which will be now partially
carried out by your approximation, and all apprehension as to our ultimate fate
removed. From the cause mentioned in the early part of this letter, I do not
think that you will require any further information on this head, as you are
perfectly aware of my opinion as the feasibility of carrying out the views
which 1 have mentioned in my communication to their Lordships : and should
the season be favourable, which, from its present appearance, I have every reason
to believe that it will, I see little to prevent; but should we unfortunately
be detained another year in the bay of Mercy, it is my wish to send you (as
soon as the strait is finally frozen over) fourteen of the crew, which will reduce
my complement to twenty. Tliis arrangement will admit of giving those remaining
nearly double allowance of provisions, Avhich will fortify them against the rigour
of a iburth Avinter, and in the spring of next year we must necessarily desert the
vessel and proceed to join your pendant.

The quantity of provisions at our present allowance, you will see by the
enclost (I return is ample for our consumption. Potatoes being the only article
that I would beg of you to supply ; a few cases of Avhich can without difficulty
be taken across on my return.

I believe this is all that at present is required to be noticed, and as you are
DOW fully acquainted with our situation and all circumstances connected with it,
also my ardent desire to complete the passage by conveying the "Investigator"
and tlu! remainder of the crew in safety to England, in the accomplishment of
which I feel perfectly persuaded of your hearty co-operation and assistance.

I cannot refrain from taking this opportunity of expressing to you the grateful
feelings that all the officers and men, in common with myself, entertain for the
cordial and truly Hiitish welcome with whicli we were greeted on our arrival on
board the " Resolute," by yourself, officers, and crew. The impressions of such
kindness, rendered grateful beyond measure from the peculiar circumstances of
our position, will, I am thoroughly sure, never be eil'aced fromoiu* recollections.

I have, &c.

RouKRT M'Clure, Commander.

No. 4.

Captain Ki:i,i,i;tt, C.B., to Commander M'Cix'nE.

By Henry Kellctt, I'sq., C.B., Captain of II.M.S. " Resolute," and Senior
Officer in Barrow Strait.
IIkrkwitii you will receive an order to hold a survey on the otlicers and crew
of II. M. ship under your command.

Shoidd the medical officers, after duly considering the state of the crew, beof
opinion that from debility vt other causes the men arc unfit to cciitend with
another winter in this climate, you will leave your ship with your whole crew,
and join me at Dealy Island.

Siiould they find the men's health such tiiat they are of opinion by remaining
there would not be more than the average risk of liealth in this climate, you
will give the men tlie option of voliuiteering, — should the number of volunteers
not amount to twenty men, which you conceive is the least possible number
with whicli you could attempt to navigate these seas.

>■ > 31

i il

^: 'nil

:'.i

: 1
i rt.

r^:

9«

i .".

You will, under these circumstances, also leave her and join me here.

For reasons advanced in your letter to me, vou state that there is a proba-
bility of your being released and reaching Melville Island this season. To
make the Passage would be highly creditable, and redound to the national
honour. It is only, in my opinion, now that the existence of the Passage ia
actually known, a second consideration to that of the safety of your crew.

The object of your voyage, the search after the missing expedition, having
been fully accomplished on all the coast within your reach, unfortunately with-
out success, no discredit can be attached to you or your crew, who have so
nobly persevered through three Arctic winters.

You are aware of the resources of this ship, and the orders under which I
am acting.

Your ship, should you be obliged to leave her, will be advantageously placed
as a dep6t for Captain Collinson, should he reach her position.

I place the greatest confidence in your judgment.

Given under my hand on board H.M.S. " Resolute," Winter Quarters,
Dealy Island, 5th May ISS.^.

(Signed) II. Kellett, Captain.

No. 5.
Commander M'Clure to Captain IIicxiiv Keli,ktt, C.B.

H.M.S. "Resolute," Dealy Island,
Sir, U)th April 1853.

In consequence of the departure on the 15th of this month, of Lieutenant
Cresswell, with a detachment of seamen and marines from H.Sl.S. under my
command, for embarkation on board this vessel for a passage to England, to
enable me to carry out the views mentioned in ni}' letter to the Secretary of the
Admiralty on the 5th instint, having also Mr. Sainsbury, mate, a great invalid
and incapable of doing duty, who, should we not get out from Bay of Mercy
this season, will have to Iw discharged with the senior lieutenant and party,
into the " Resolute " during the autunm.

I have to submit it will be necessary that another commissioned officer of the
wardroom rank should be appointed, and to request that Mr. Stephen Court,
second master, may be ordered to act as master of Her Majesty's Ship, under
my command.

The exemplary conduct of this officer interests me in his behalf, nnd it was
my intention to liave done this, ns nientioneil in my lefter to the Lords Com-
missioners of the .'Vdmiralty, with which you are acquainted.

I have, \c.

RoRKRT M'Clirk, Commander

No. 6.
Captain Ki:i.i.f.tt, C.H.. to Commander -M'Ci.tiii:.

H.M.S. " lUsoluto," Dealy Island,
Sir, 'ioth of April, l^'yX

luAvi; to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of yesterday's date, request-
ing that a connnissiionetl officer of wardroom rank iiiijiht hv a])p()intid to II. M.S.
under your connnand, and recommending Mr. Stephen Court, 2(1 master, for
advancement.

I fully concur with you in the necessity of u second cNccutive ofliccrof ward-
room rank being on board the " Investigator," atid cndoso an acting connais-
sion as master for Mr. Court, whom yon have recomincndi'd.

He is to be borne in lieu of a lieutenant, aikr the departure of tliat portion
of the crew for this ship, for passage to Ijiglaiid.

I have, iS;c.

II. Kr.LLKTT, Captain.

I I

r. e
• Id

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o'd

I I

2 3
I

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o Ol

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a '^

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o to

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I 1

ri 2

I I

J>'i-4t

No. 8.
DiuKNAL Variations of the Thermometers at Melville Island, 1852-53.

i n 11 1.1 111 17 IH in it

M t\ •^.

! 3 K

•,

r f

10 1

1 \i

•^

^ri.

~-».

— —

l''l!»3

—

. II

10° -83

■^

SG" -48

—

■^

'>.

—

■^

^i '

.. -,

35' -84

— ^

1
A

1
i

:ir-irs

■^

;

■

21° -9

■^

'y(T^

1 >
1 1

1 !

1 1

1
1

u_i

Zero of October 18SJ,

Zero, November 1834.

Zero, lli'ceiiiber 1853,

Zero of JoDiuiry If ,'3.

Z*ro 3f February 1853.

Zero of March IS 53.

I-.' 13 II 15 111 17 1- I'.i Ui --'I I".' '.'1 = 1 'J ;l I .1 li 7 1 J In 11 13

Sc-mIc of 1' (if Ti inp nitiii'i' to O-.'i'i nt";\n iridi. 'I"1il' curve ri-i'- with ini!rr;i-e of

T('iiii)er.itiiri>.

No. 9.

Tahi.k showing the Direction of the Winds in each Month ;
decimal parts of" 1, tlieir I'rcquency.

the numbcis in

ScptCllltllT

1 IctohiT

Novi-mltcr

Di-cpiiiN'r

.lunuarv

Kfhruiirv

M:irili

issa.

lH,Vi.

IC.-ii.

IH.V.'.

IH.W.

IHM.

\H-,n.

Noiili

-rk-,

•+:t'-'o

•3814

•.if'62

• 4.')66

•.I92:i

•;;9ii

N.x.i;.

•O't'24.

•0.1,1

•0928

•0698

•0;i()9

•Oiso

■():!()(

N E.

■o:i;)(i

•Oljll

•0.5H2

•00."

•0i:)9

•0187

•()1.J7

K.N.E.

•0077

'0066

•OJHX)

•0l).-,7

•080!)

•0187

•0118

El8t

•0706

•0099

•0K91

•o;)9,-,

"0990

•().;.;:i

•o;;6i.

K.S.K.

•0148

•0174

•0184

■01(16

•0180

■1.VJ7

SK.

•0!);)!)

•O'.'ll

•0.)K2

•0M2H

•(K),-);!

•(X)97

■OS67

S.S.tL.

■ ()()M5

•OMSl

•0291.

•0164

•01)11

•0019

Siiutli

•04:i7

•OUi,-)

•Olio

•()0S2

•00t2

■0011

• 0078

S.S.W.

•0027

•oou

•000)

s.w.

•oyia

■(XH)6

•0171-

•(K)I6

•0468

"OlOi

•OOS",

W'.S.W.

•0107

•lOfiH

•0127

•0(X)H

•oi:i9

Wi'sl

•1.517

•o;!.:i

•0()H2

•ooos

•or.i 1

•0009

W.N.W.

•Oll.'i

•(m.->r>

•0202

•0:iiiO

•l()4:i

•0016

•oi;,s

N.W.

•J'.W

•0780

•0291.

•0I4S

•0479

•0114

•0019

N.N.W.

•071'-'

•I, -.27

•0809

•1601)

•054;i

•172 J

•2177

('uluili

16 lidurs.

40 liouu.

8 iiours.

21 hours.

4.^ Iioiirii.

21 liDUrs.

57 lioiirs.

No. 10.

Captain Ki:u.ett, C.B., to Commander Pi llkn.
By Henry Kellett, Esq., C.B., C^iptain of Her Majesty's Ship " Resohite."

Sir,
Hkukuitii you will receive despatches and other doeunients eoiiiicclcd with
the service of the Western branch of Arctic Expedition under the conunand of
Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., addressed to him, as well U'^ thoi^c contiiinint'- the pro-
ceedin<fs of Her Majesty "s ship " Investigator."

You will give directions for their being copied for the ini()rmation of Sir
Edward Belcher, transmitting the whole of the originals to thi' Sccretiii'v of the
Admiralty i'or their ].iordshi|)s" information by the first opportiuiity.

With reference to the equiinneiit of the " North Stur," I refei' yoii to my
letter addressed to Sir Edward Belcher of thi> date, all information connected
with whicii I think you will do right to follow.

Should you have an opportunity of sending to England before a vessel leaches
_>ou from this place, you will deliver the dis[)atches from Conmiamler
M'Clure into the charge of Lieutenant Cresswell, sending the whole of the
party by which you receive this, to Englanil.

Ciiven under my hand, on board Her Majesty's sliij) " Kesolute,"
' Beechey Island, 7th May isry.i.

(Signed) Hi;\uv Kkluett, Captain.
Commander PuUcn, Her Majesty's ship " North Star,"
Beechey Island.

li!

No. II.
Skckrtauv of riiK Aumihai.iv to Captain Kei.lett, C.H.

Sir, "th Octoher IS.')

I iiAxi; received and laid before my I.oi'ds Commissioneis of tho .\ilmiri
the narrative of the proceedings of llii' Wcslerii Division of the Ueiiei' l'\|
tioii imder your oiders, and I am desired to express to you the saiisliutlon
which their Lordships have reci'ived intelligence nt' the sai'ety of 11,. M. DIm'o
Ship " Investigator," under the command of Captain Maclure, and of the sue
you were enabled to extend to that ship.

, ..•...» ^,. .-..I. 4l....

11 %\M1\V >llig l\' y\i\i iiivi

..,1.1,

III It Itll titt t/l It1\)\l*| t

1 am at the same tiine to express to you their satisfaction at your report ol

llltV,

-.ecii-
with
\iry
cour

ions
' Viie

.|;.t#

M'^^^

9«

good condiift of the oHiccrs, M'anu'ii, ainl murines I'mplovi'd under your orders,
inore j)iirtieularly wliilsl eugiigvd in their extindi'd sli'dfje journies, the result of
whieli, espeeialh those to the westward under Connnander .M'( 'lintoek and
Lieut. Meehaiu, \\\\ Lords anxiou^! I<x-k forward to !)e aequainted witli.

I am, \'e.
(Sijyned) \\ . A. U. IIamii kin.

No. 12.

To the Officer Coniiunndinj; the SKdge eitlier from the "Assistance "

or " I'loiieer."

Sir, I'oint I'hilhps, Kkh .April lH->:\,

I AiiKivKi) here this morninu; on my return to the " .Nortli .Star,"' after having
deposited at Cape Meeher, di'spatclies tor Sir I".. Meieher, (hipHcates of which
are underneath. 'I'liere is also at l'a|)e Ik'clier a small <'ask of ni'wspai)ers and
packet of letters for hoth >liips, hrouiiht out hy C'onmiander Iiif;litield in the
" Isabel." He arrived on tiie 7tli of Scptembei- last, and left a;rain the ne.xt day.
The *' I'rince .Vliiert" was also with us, arrivinj; on the l!)tli of August.

The " North Star" was driven on shore by ice, and a heavy S.Iv i^ali- of wind
last September; and. as we htiw not bt'cn ai)le to j:;et her oH' yet, it is verv
probal)le that no party will be here on the 1st of .May. Vou therefore deposit
your despatches, iVe., and they shall lu' sent tor as soon a> possible. One

fiarty will leave when I return for < 'ape Hecher ; they will also have the letters
»rou<;lit over by " .Albert " from I'ort Leoj)ul(l, as well as a few more |)apers
from Knjfland.

W'l' |)assed this on our way to (ape Heciier, hut not Hndinj; it out until I jiot
the latitude, .hen about one mile north and two or three west, I would tiot turn
back, but made for Ruillie Hamilton Isle.

The travellin<T has been very hea\ y, and on the west side of the islands
dangerous, for main holes of water and much rotten ice uas seen, of course

getting worse daily.

We left the ship on the jid of .March, " all well.
Yours, \c.,

W. ,1. S. I'ri.i.KN, ('oinniander, H.N.

.\t Cape Rescue, •JUth .\pril IS');}.

Commander I'uUen arrived here on the ;i(lth Marih, leaviiij^ his ship the
"North .Star." in Krebus Hay, l?eecliey Island, on the 21>t. Alter breaking
his two sleds, was oiiliged to proceed with one, made out ot' the two sound
runner>, and part ot' his party of twelve to I'oint I'liillips and Hecher, li'aving
the remaindei- of party here. Iteached I'oint Hecher on the h»lh of .April, aiul
deposited dispatches tor Sir K. iii'lclier, also letters and a cask of ui'wspapers
for both shi|)s. On his return deposited duplicate dispatches at I'oint Phillips,
and arrived here on the l!)th of .\pril. Found the party gone on to the ship,
made this cache and left the next day. Party all well.

Found the travelling throughout very heavy and dangerous on the west side
of the islands, from so much open water and rotten ice — in many places not
more thait an inch thick, and covered with a thin coat of snow, through which
himself and .Mr. .Al>ton broke.

April 20th 1853.

No. i:\.
Commander Pti.i.KN to Captain Sir K. Hi:i.ciikh, C.B.

II. M.S. "North .Star," Heechey Island,
Sir, I Itli July Imo.-V

IIavinc; acquai?ited y(ai with the proceedings of Her .Maji'stv's ship mider
omiiiaiid, up to the endol' February, which 1 letluilli letters from Kiigland
ajie lUcher last April, I lag to ibrward you a lurther account up to this

From the records I left at Cape Hecher you will be accpiainted with the
oi ilie He bei«(-ei"i It and this place. ! cinniiiciiced !nv riturii on t!ie ! Ith
April, making an attempt to cro.ss the northern chunnerfor the purpose of

1.
my (
at C
time.

2.
fit ate

fmssing to the cnstwunl of the isliind», but whs frustrated in consequence of the
leiivy 1111(1 huuuiiockv talt- ol' [\u- iir ; llie like suctcHs I met with in the middle
clmnnel, and from the sumecuuse, lofrelher with the rotten and unsafe nature of
he tloes, exiiihitinj; manv holes of open water and ice so thin that on two occa-
sions myself and Mr. Alston (mate) broke throujj;h into the water. I got into
Cornwallis Island again (west of Cape i'hillip.s) on the KHh, and the next day
my last and remaining sled was unfortunately broken, so that it was with nuuh
difficulty I reached Mr. Penny's boat, leavmg duplicate despatches at Point
Phillips on ])assing it. Merc I was detained until Mondiiy, the whole inter-
vening time being employed in converting the large boat sled, so as to take us
back to the ship. Onthe'iOth I arrived at my depot at Cape llcscue, and found
the men I hud Icl't there gone to the ship. The ne.\t day 1 proceeded, made
for and reaclud {'ai>c Bowden on the afternoon of the 22u, and the ship on th*"
24th, the four men having arrived two days previous.

'X The travelling on the return journey was nuich better from the heavy snow-
drift filling up between the lunmnoeks, and taking a somewhat diH'erent route ;
hence the short time we took in accomplishing it.

4. The second party had gone olf, and as 1 said in my notice at Cape Becher
that they would visit it, feared by their taking the same route I did they
would not be able to cross, and having been away only two days, sent
a light party out to dtsire the officer in charge to take the eastern route ; unfor-
tunately they were unsuccessful : I could therefore only trust that Mr. Shella-
bear, on reading the iK)tices left at Cape Kcscue and Point Phillips, would keep
well to the eastward on crossing the (Queen's Channel, and thus reach Cape
Becher all right. On the afternoon of tlu' 21st May this party returned, not
having been able to reach the extreme point of rendezvous in consequence of
thi' state of the ice. A copy of his journal I forward.

.'). It was fortunate that I left at so early a period, for on returning from Cape
Becher the llth and l'M\\ April, found tlie ice had so visibly changed, showing
many more large cracks and holes, that on my arrival at Cornwallis Island I did
not consider it sate to return, I'ven innnediatcly had it been necessary.

(). On my arrival at the ship I found every preparation for getting off in as
advanced a stiite as possible. All the heavy ice that had been forced up under
the bows, ncnrly to the i)()\vs])rit, was for the third tinu' removed, together with
the snow dug down to the solid ice for some distance ahea<l, the line of intended
dock gravelled Jurat least two miles to seaward, and the house finished with the
exception of a few small jobs ; it is now complete all but the banking outside,
is most sidistantially built, and will afVord comfortable accomnmdation for any
parties who may reach it.

7. If was not until the 2;{d May thiif we could connnence with the saws, and
thi'n fron\ the state of the weather, the thickness of the ice, (seventeen to five
feet,) our progress was very slow, the banking was removed from the ship's
side well down to the bilge, leaving just suilicient to prevent her falling over.
.\t fir^t no water wa- under her, but on its gradually finding its way in, foiuul
she was fairly embedded in a iTadle of ice, iuid raisecl at least eighteen inches off
the ground ; this I discovered by getting oidy at the highest tides twelve feet
two inches on the stcrnpo^t, whereas in a small hole under the port counter
there was thirteen feet eight inches; — m this latter place last autunm the sound-
inu;s were the least. I now had the remaininn' einbimkmcnl removed from the

shi

thi

slup on eitner su
and down to the

I now had the remammg
found

•ht aft,

To get the water

ler sail', and tonnd from the alter part of the lore chains
keel, the ii'c fairly stui'k lo her buttom.
aloHii the biluv' a narrow trench was dug out fore and aft, to allow it to come m
from t'orwisrd and remain there at low wafer; ;'.nd, with ashes spread, a change
soon became apparent, flu' tide coming over the wv aiid the ship rising to nearly
an even kei'l iVoiii the *h\vv degrees list she had had to starboard for the last
inunili.

s. On ilie ;?itth May, to my surprise, an otlicer arrived \'yo\\\ tlu •' I'esolutc"
with tlic uratitVinu- intelligence (if the •'Investigator," ( '(iniinander M'Clurc,
ha\in'4 ncarlv lU'ilbrnu'il the Noith-Wost passage, she is now and li;;s been since
Si'ptember I S.")l, within ri'ach of Wintrr iiarliour, Alelvillc Island, and about
U;7 niihs from Dealy Island, tlie " IJesolute's" winter quail, r. Her present
])()sition i> in a ba} (Mercy Bay) on the north shores of a new island they have
discovered, and named ai'ter Sir rranci> Baring. Tliis \v:is. first kmnvn last
autunm, by on*' of Cajifain Kellett's travelling parties picking up at winter

N 2

ill '

: i

if.i

100

liaiboiir tlioir notice lot't on tlic laifjo siindstoiu' iDck. Copies of h-tti'is from
(.'aptiiin Kellett, toijetlier with jonriml, clmrt, and other doeiinient* from Com-
niiinder M'Chnv, I lake with nie to leave at Cape Heehi'r, retainini; the originals
lor tnmsuiission to Knyiand, as per order from the former also eni'hwd. The

I'Hker (Mr. Hoehe, mate) from the '* Hesohite " was aei ipaiiied hv tin*

boatswain, and ten men from his own slii|), aNo two of the " Investifjator's "
otHeeis, sent on here l''>r a jiassaye to Ijiuland the tirst opportunitv . Slaiiy of
the " investiuator's ■■ people were left at l)eal\ Inland imaltU' to travel, and if
she is to lie tinallv abandoned this vear, all join the " Kesoliite."

9. Considorini;- it iieeessar\ under present eircnmstanees that < 'aptain Kellett
Bhotdd he a;'(puiinted with the jxisition oi' this ship, Mr. Uoehe having volunteered
to retinn, and Lieutenant Cresswell's opinion heinir favourable as to the practi-
cability of doinii so in time, I ,u:ave him a lif;ht etiuipment, all our dojifs, and
sent hi'i) olV(Mi tlii' tth June.

10. The men which came from the " Hesohite," as soon as they had recovered
from the fatigues of their journey, were employed with our own on the ice ; and
we began to make a better show of remo\ing the obstacles about us: still it was
a slow process cuttinu; up ai\d parbucklinj;- out such heavy ice. The |K)wder
now came into rcipiisition and told well, when on the •J-ltli .lime we luul cleared
out so nuieh ahead, that, could we oidy fjet her out of her icy cradle, we mi!j;lit
move her on cud with the |)urehases. About twenty tons of |)rovisions,
stores, ivc, were not out and placed on the ice alonu;side, which nearly cleared
the \essel.

11. llaviui; for some days ])ast observed that the hifiliest tide murk on the
sternpost never showed more than II tt. loin., indieatinf;- a decrease in the
depth; whereas, under at the port counter it was the same, which I was at a
loss to account tor, when on the :ilth .lime I had a hole dujiin tlie ice close to,
and ijjot completely throunh to the ground; then by means of a spirit level
found, as the tide rose, it Hoatedthi' ice clo^e to fairly off tlii' ground, with the
siu'p indu'dded in it. thus actinii on her just liki- an innuense camel. Now 011
eitlii'r side ol the ship, fore and att, and about two fathoms off, the ice that
we had taken the lianking otf" was cracked from the main body, but not
suth'ciently clear to allou it. ship and all. to no out tottether ; for it was very
e\i<loiit ;ill \Mis off the ground at the top of high water. 'i"he ^aw was theri'fore
jia-^cil tlu'ouuh the iee within this crack, right alt to tlu' stern, crossing two
cracks at right angles with the ship's side; holes abo wi-re dug through, and as
the whole mass floated up with the ship, a few four pound cliarges were Hred,
whith, ill a great mtasure shook the ice fiom the siiip"s bottom, and by the
evening ot the -J'^tU had a pretty good space cleared nearly att to the starboard
gangway. The tides were now taking oti", and 1 did not expect to be al)le to
move lur (doubtfid even then) until the middle of .luly; however, as there
were four holes yet in the iee. on the starboard side, fairly through to the
ground. I determined on trying with a night high water, if charges placed
and blown otf in ([uick succession would not move her in her bed. I saw
no other hope: it was a desperate remedy, hut om-s was a des|)erate case,
and there was no calculating when we should mo\e her, for as we advanced,
the heavier became our work ; and with |)ick-a.\es, saws, and shovels, it was
indeed a slow opi-ration ; and we might not possibly got otl". until forced off'
by the ice driving out in a body, as it did last year. Night tides were now
certainly the highest, so at 2 a.m. on .Sunday morning the -Jtlth. the purchases
were again manned; sails sot to a light breeze from K..'^.K,and one churfje
placed in a hole at the rangway. At this time there was II teet (> inches
imder llif tore foot, and only II tei't 10 inches showing on the sternpost,
so I considered her at least l^i inches at this spot off the ground, i)orne up
as bel'ore said by the ice. The purchases therefore being taut, three more
charges held in readiness; the gangway one was ignited, which on exploding,
to my great reliif, not (ally shattered the ice about us so nuich, but the
sliip fairly moved in her icy bod, seeing which, I had the others in inmiediatelv ;
one in a Ixile half way along the main chains; another under the mizen chains,
starboard side : and one close by the sternposi, with fiizees cut and ignited, so as
to explode in (juick snecessioii. They had tlu' desired eH'ect, for thev so
shattered the ice alongside and under the stern, apparently shaking it otf' her
bottom, that she sank down iiodily, and with keeping a taut strain on the
purchases, sprung ahead : after which, we hove her ahead gradually, until having

101

tnovedlu'r nn nil end " fort v-two feet," wc (ciild i;() ii(» riirtlicr until more ice
was out ol' till' wiiv, 'I'hr tide iiNi) was liilliiin, hut liiuiMu: ^jiiincd so iiiiicli, I
now t'clt contidi'iit ot' our i^i'ttiiiff iilluiit in f^ood linir, mid as nooii as wt- could
clear .-pace ahead where we hiiil lieen eiittiiiji lor heavlnn' into. This weniaiiaffed
to do, and liv (leitiii^j on (jradiiallv uiilil we could float, inucli ici' passed into the
open spaci' astern : when, on the evcniiiuot' Thursdas, the lUltli iiitiino, we were
up to the head of our docl^, and in water wfie -he could lii- afloat at tlii' lowest
tides. .Vt'ter Inuinu; lain nine niontlis fast held, powerless in a bed of ice,
there was a rejoicinjr this eveniiijr vou inav lie sure, sir, and I trust never to
he placed in a like position ajiaiii : such an occurii'iice is, I believe, unparalleled
in the annals of .Arctic naviuaiion fur such a leii}>th of time.

12. On the titli instant, the ship's bottom was swept, and we could not
detect that she had received anv injurv : she was also as tinlit as ever,
makiiif,' no water, at which 1 am surprised, from lately having' strained so nuich.
In Mweepintj, much ice was worked off her bottom, and came up alonfj;side
the small liower anchor, and with it also al)out thirty fathoms of chain I tear wc
shall lose, for the ice in its direction is very heavy and hunmiocky : at all
events we may j^issibly pick it up if the ice cli'ars out of the bay : at present I
see no hope for it, for up to this date, as far as the eye can reach from the
Riimmit of Heechey Island, not a patch of open water is to be seen in any
direction but our dock, or the ice inovinn in Harrow Straits. This season, there-
fore, I fear will be a vi'ry late one, althouu'h so fiiu' and early a s|)rin<;'.

I'A. .\fti'r ffcttint; off, preparations wi'ie coimiieiici'd for my leaviiij;- ; and, as
it would be necissary to take a boat, a solid sled was made, and the jrutta
nercba boat left by the " Prince Albert" jiot in readiness, and this evening I
leave for ('a|)e lU'chcr. W'lu'iu'M'r practicabU-, I propose sendinj;' a boat across
to I'ort Leopold, to examine the state of thiniis there.

II. .\ll till' pid\isions but nine iiionths" for my own crew are in the course of
landiiii;', and \ery iicarlv conijileted. 'I'lie |)erishable articles will be placed in
the bouse. Our water is complete, and the ship will be ready for any emerfrcncv
by the end of the month. The dock cuttiiiii', althoiiuh over a jiieat distance, I
think will be of easy accoinplishnRiit, fir it is now so wasti'd down where
We have jiravelled and I'overed with watt'i', that any of our boats would
Hoat in it.

l.'j. With respect to this place as a winter i|uarters, I do not consider it a safe
one for a ship of this draft, for at the time you iieiieially look for the elosinji of
the seascai the south ea-t winds a|)]HMr to prevail, driviiifi' in liea\y bodies of old
ice, and for us tln're is no sheiti'r whatever. Willi no hope of nettiny- an answer
from you in time, I have acijuainted Captain Kellett of this circumstance, and
n rei|uest to be allowed to nunc.

Hi. On my return from Cape Meeher, I found Mr. .M'Cormick, the surffcon,
laid up with a broken rib, since which he has not been out of the sick list. 1
enclose lien'witb the sick rejiort ; and in coiu'ludinu this letter I ben' stron<>ly to
recommend to your t'axouraiiie consideration my (xecutixe ottieers, .Mr. Piillen,
the master, in partii'ular, whose exertions at all times have been uiiceasinji;, and
his suf;u;estions durinu, this tryinir pi'riod most valuable. Mr. .\lston, mate, has
shown a worthy e.xainpk', not only at this time in particular, but on the journey
with me to I'api- Meclier and back auain. .Mr. Shellabear, the si'coiid master,
has not only done his work well, but on two occasions wliiii he had charue of
travelliiifi' parties, his conduct of them has fully met my approbation. The
behaviour of my crew has (piite (Mpialled my expectations.

1 have, \c.,
W. J. S. 1*1 i.i.KN, C'oimnauder.

No. 14.

Cape Rescue, .luly 17 lf^;')3.
C.\rT.\i\ I'li.i.iiN arrived here !i!;aiii early this nioriiinf>- on his way to Cape
Becher, liavin}>; left the " North .Star" in Krebus and 'I'error Hay, on the Uth,
with a party of ten men and an officer, with a boat and sled. Proceeded on
t!ie 18th.

in-i

;

Thr iiIm>vi- party anivt-d litw on their n-tiini on thi- niorninu; i.l' llir Ith of
Anifiist. hiivin>; inVt tlii' " A-^isimiK " mul " I'ioiui r" oil' I'oint Majcndio. Sir
V Milclu'i inuiidrd |m>-inn <liiv.ii llif tii^lirn n1ioiv> oI' \\'tlliiif;lcii Cliannil to
Mc(«lu\ Inland.

On li lint' N. ;U M)' \V. In o)nii)ii>>. uiidiriuath tin- si'cond Iu'H|> from this,
und I'losf uncUr thf nii>,m'd part of thi- hill, wa> dipo«.ititl aliuiit Tolhs. of
iK'niniican, .'»U llis. nl' lirnid, and mhui- umuM', all nninvrd tVoin tlii>, llu' luars
linvinj; hmki-n in <in a Umwvv occixioii. The laiin im llic linuli also dirrrts to
tlie provisions.

The party left upiin on tin- """"""i oftlic '*'!', di-taiiu'd thr intervening time
' ■^ ^ evenmfi Tith

by weather and repairs neceHsary to i)oat and sled.

W. .1. S. I'l l.l.KN,

Coimnaiider ot' II. M.S. '• Norih Star,"
On shingle rid^je just above the lieaeh (Capr lU'scue.)

Close under the hill underneath a heap (»f stones wa;* deptwited, hy Captain
Tidlen of II.M.S. "North Star," u ipiantity of provisions for the use of any
parties who may he ^hort on arrivinif at this spot.

•See laini, with n(»tiee and small hamhoo on the (K)int. .\ugust 4th iHb'A.
" All well."

No. I.").

V '''

Sir.

Kki'okt ok 1'ho( Ki';i)iN<is.

Connnander Pt'i.LKN to Captain Sir E. Hkh ni it, C.H.

Ile>- .MajestyV Ship " North .Star,"
Heeehey Island, 12th of .\uf,nist IH5M.

1. I uwi the honour to inform you, that after leavinj; the " .\ssistaiu'e"on the
'i7th ultimo, I j)roi'ei'de(l, Mi'eor<lii'!i to your wishes, into < 'aju' Majeiidie, built
two larjie (•aini>, and (lipo..itc(l the notice- c)n the riiek>, over where the |)rovi-
sions are deposited ; nhtaineil a \iry im])ert'eet >i't of ohserxatioii-- for time and
latitude (by reason of the wi'ather). Crossed to Dundas Island, pa.'-sed down
its western shores, and tlia' niifht eneamped about half a mile to the southward
of Point l''itzjames ; the next morninti I >tarted with a reasonable hojie from the
stati' of tidi', iee, and weather, of re.iehina I'oint I'liillips that evening; but, on
arrivinn i>t1' I'oint \'isconte, there was :i thiek ton' eoming up from the southward,
quite obseiirin;; the southern land ; still I eould see some distance in the desired
direction, therilbre, with a fair breeze, I >hoved oH', determined to make a push
tor Cornwallis liand. I don't sup]>os<' I had run more than ti\c miles, before I
suddenly found myself encircled w'*'' driving ice, anil idinost immediately we
were compelled to sek'ct the hc>\ Hoe and haul <Mir boat up, soon after which all
appeared a dense mass as far as the eye could reach, heaviuff and grinding
together; an(} the fog clearing ot?', saw it \\a« all packed u|) on either shore,
without any ho|)es of our being able to movi' on, unless wind or tide opened out
a passage, 'riiiis I was detained until 7.-'" *.m. of the ;«»th ultimo, only moving
to get on a better piece of ict' as the tloe drove, when, fnan the southerly wind
then bree/ing up, apparently driving the iee hard up on the southern shores of
liaillie Hamilton Island ; and the tlood tide ha\ ing moM'd an immense smooth tloe
piece to ilic eastward. I commenced to launch tlii' boat, and. .af'ter passing o\er
iinnuneralile quantilie^ of hiiniiuocky >tiitV, occasionalK fori'liii; thnuiiih small
])()ols ot' brash ice, I g. it on it, and at I. I.") of the morning of the ;<Ut, launched the
boat into open water about tour miks t'roiii (ornwalli- I>land, and sis to the
westward of I'oint Phillip^, whicli jioiiit 1 iiaclii'il at tour tin -anie iiKniiint: ;
tbnnd my party there .-ill well, but looking aiixiiaisK tor our arrival.

'J. (.11 the 1st instant, at '.\ \ m., I saw. as if coining tlninigh the ice lor the
land, a boat, which I concluileil to be yours, therefore pulled out tiir it ; but
(inding it only -i niece of block ice returned, embarked tlie whole partv, laiiled
up to the jce, got the boai v>ii the sledge, and proceeded in a direi't line for the
island. ,i <Ui>Ti distance ot?' the land, and before I rot abreast of .Abandon May,

tlie ice wii<« mo Imd, that the sledge, l)i)at, miil |)iii'l\ l)i'<ik( tlinmgli, and we were
oltligcrl to luiul ill lor the land MjKiiiii and pursue the usual course; and at 15
ininiiles atU'r midiiighl of the iimrniiij; oi' the Ith ol' Aufiii^l reailu'il I'nint
Rescue. Here I was detained till the inorniii]!; dt'llie (ith li\ the weather, when,
ftt'ter leaving a notice as to the wherealMaitH of tin- depot, and the course you
were pursuing i'or this place (see notices dated .lulv 17), started tor tin >»hip,
and arrived on hoard on the evening of the I Ith instant. I found at the mouth
of the liav (surroundi'd In ice) ller Majesty's steam vessi-l " Phu-nis," Com-
mnnder Ingletield, with a traiiHport Irian l')ngliind, having on hoard provisionH
and coals for the expedition, and discharging with all sneiil.

3. Finding ('(anmander Ingletield had lelt forCaiie l{escui' the day hetlac I
arrived, taking with hini Mr. Alston, mate, and two lioats; I at first thought of
utMiding after him, hut on consideration, and it would take some little time to
equip a sledge, I deei dedon sending a jjarty direct to you with dispatclus and
private letters.

4. Lieutenant Hellot, the French otticer in the " IMio'iiix," having so gallantly
volunteered to lead this party, I have given him thi' command, a liglit eipiip-
ment, so as to ensure reaching your ship as speedily as possihie.

5. Commander InglcHeld will, I expect, reach yon about the same time ;
learning from Point liescue your probable ])osition.

(). The ice here only opeiu'd out on the 1st, when two casks, contnining
notices, were set adrift. The ice in Wellington Channel is still heavy anci
closely packed, with no appearance of a disruption after leaving Point Uescue
till I arrived at Point iimis, where it had broken otf directly across the channel
to (!()rnwallis Land, but still floating about in heavy masses. In Marrow Strait
it is close up to the floe edge, but from the top of the island haig leads are
visible to the S.K. ; to the westward still heavily packed ; both the " I'ho-nix "
and transport have been nipped, and are nearing the island whenever an oppor-
tunity otlers.

7. In conclusion, I am most happy to inform you, that the anchor from which
we drove last Se|)tember, and which I despaiied of recovering, the master Iims
succeeded in getting onci' more to the bows. We have therefore happily lo-t
nothing, and the ship is now ready for sea with the exception of getting a feu
more provisions on board, which will Ix* done immediately the transport is
discharged, by which time I trust you will be here.

I have, iSfc,

W. ,1. S. Pui-i.KN, C^onnnnnder.

N.M. I am in great haste to get Lieutenant Bellot ot^', I therefore beg you will
excusi- any inaccuracies, and to state that 1 have every confidence in him, and
he will give you all the news.

! ,* H

\ •

'.III.

Journal dl' the " North Star," Coininaiidor rulloii, 14th Aii>>ii.st 1852

to I'c'hruarv I8.')3.

No. 1.

JouHNAi. of the Phockkdinos of Her Majestv's Ship " North Star," in Erebus
and Terror Bay, Heechey Island,' Winter of 1852-.'J3.

1. The "Assistance," and " Pioneer," her tender, left for Wellington Channel ii'i' Aujtuu in.w.
on the night of the 1 Ith. the " Intrepid" now hauled alongside to take in her

share of coals ( having conij)letc(l the pro\ i>i()ns bi'tbre), and on Suii'l'iN nioiiiiiig,
about 1 1 A.M., she finished, almost clearing out the " North Star entirely.
Provisions, however, we have plenty ; but coals and fui'l I fear we may fall short of.

2. The steamer lit her Hres directly, and as soon as the .steam was up we i ''h Augu,t, " lUw-
exchanged parting salutes with her and the " Kesolute," when she took her u.'a'c,
charge in tow and steamed otl'to the westward lt)r Melville Island, thus leaving
us to our reflections and solitude for the next twelve months at least.

N 4

'Intrepid**

i I'

loi

;l I

Orihis *•'

AmiinrntviK
f>iutf lli**ln I

H«uiii»Cur u»iiiim

i'au^f r.ir Mi|i|Mi«liiK

« l>H^««ai' Ir ,Mit^

w.ll 11,1. .

Vrriiifti iiiviif 4 iiM
Cittntn.iiirlcrkliir^prii
pill II-.

■' >It*r* \.ulil.

Ni.il th

■ 1111. k.. .\'-

liilh Au;:iiM.
Arraittfeniijjs lor
Mt. .M'( urn.ik

I Till A111IM..1.

t'l)lll|)llll\

I. Tiu' K iiiaiitinu slcdm piirtN, or IhimI |iiirl\ , this mmimoii, i iiiti'iidi it to give
in I li.ii'i' to Ml. Slu'llalN'Mi', tlu ^iinnil iiiii»tir, I'iiIIn |iiii'|i(i ii"; it In lie tiitiivly
"Icil^t' w.'ik. tlici'i'liirc nut to pi nil' iiMlil the i< r nimlc MitHi'it nilv liir tnivi'llin^ ;
iiml ax I liiiil lu'iii'il II 'jicilt iIi'mI nl' l:ilk aliinit the |ii'ol)iiliilitv nl a iia^^ap- ri'iiin
till' luad ot Maxwill Uav into mhiu' nnitliiin watti. ur |Hiliai).> .loin-^" .Sound,
I, ii« xoon a> till' .'•lii|> \wi< all hiili', di'lcnniiii'd topi into tliat iiav, lor tlic purpoH'
of I'xaminiiiu it and «i'fliiii; the niattfi- (oniiiifti'lv at rt«t. iind |h rlia|)s on my
irtiirii \i«ii I'oi't Lco|iiil(i.

.). Till' caii'f tor till- (•oiijfctiiic am-c Iroiii .Mi. Kralilic, iminn .^!ll^tl•^ ol' tlir
" lntri-)iid," liavinu liccii into Maxwell Hay la>t coinini-oion, and cun.'.iiU'rin^ tliiit
Ik* could <!(■ a Miy con^iiUralilc distaiict' towariU the licnd of tin- liay withour
a <'ontiniiiiiioii of land, tlioiiiilil il |inili.ililc tlicrc niiiflit Ix'ii lead intoMinii iiioic
nortlu'iii \Natii.

(j. .\> till' coinmanil ol (IMC of tlu- >|irini; jiaitiis liad liitn a laiiui"! Mr by
-' Sir I'alwaiil McIcIut. in tlic |HM»on of Mr. .M'( 'oriiiiik. I iiitciidci! jn mij tin-
Hcond to Mr. SlicllalKiir. and Icail tlic third invM'lt', |Mir|U)>in!! tluii, il |U),.«>il)li-,
to ivacli liu' " .\.>-i.-taiict" in In 1 «inlii i|iiart»is.

7. ('a|itam Killctt luiiiu lln' ia>t Mniur ollicir on lia\iiii;, liandcd nic a li'ttrr
iiriiiiin tlu' lu'it-^ily of \i«itiML! I'm! l.c(i|iiiM. wliicli I had aNo ihcidcd on
doiiiii. ihrrt'ltii't- would |irr|i;iif for it ; and foii-idcrinu ihat thi' " Mary " \ at'ht 011
the lu-ac'h ill (iiion ll;i\ would lie will Mda|it('d lor the MiAici', I dcU'riniiU'd oil
launchihi; and frinuiiiu her into l",nliu> and I riiur lta\ llu' lii>t idini ifciit o|)|Uir-
tuiiitx . al>o c« ii 111 iii'^i it llu ln'>l jihu (• lot lui , a> >hi' \Miuld iiio«l likcK ii'(|uiri'
repair after the ex in>nic tu Arelie weather. ( )u the atleriiooiiol .Sunda\ I he master
and I. till retiiri'. \i>iled the little \e^-el. She wa> Ivini: on a luiavelly lieacli oil
the nortliern «liore- of 1 nion lta\,with hei I. eel aliout >ix leit aliove hitsli-watiT
mark, with |iro\i->iiin 1 her, lell not oiil\ l:\ Sir .lohii \{t>^- lnit other .Vretie
partii^ who had \l-iliil ihe pLiee in f*<,") j .

•*. In till' eoiiv-i- of (air r.iiulile we eaine on the ^iediie tracks llielilioiied l>y
*oin<' of the Uiriner parties, and on traeinu tiieiii up towariU a deep valley, tluduiili
wliieli a rapid -treain wax luniunL;, and lanptyin;; itself in I nion Hay, when we
lost all turtiier traces liut the remains of m lirokcii pine sjiiir ; lindinit nolhinn-
further, rcturiicil on lioiird.

!>. Thix mornim: I luld Mr. .M'( 'nriiiic k that he cnuld leave the >.hip with a
iTevv of six men 011 \\'edne>(lMV , riMpicxliim him ,il the xaiiic tiiiu' to acquaint ine
with till' ( plant ity of provi»ioMs he would wish to iiiki' and the names of his crew,
as he had ^nid liefore thiil sevelnl ot the people IimiI Vdluiileered to accoiupuDV
him. Sjiorllv he ua\c me the reipiircd li«tx. ;md I ordered evervthiiin to lie i;ot
I'eadv liv thut linu

In. On Tuixdiix iiioiniiiLS iu the diiip'v , v ' M ."ilr llalicar, second master,

Th, ■• .Mjr. V.i.lii

top, ! ]

11. 1

idiiiid

Mar\ , Mild coin-

iiiie of the ipiarii iniii lis, and the captain ■ '' ;

iteechev |oland iiilii I nion iiav, and lain' ' i

inenced pre|iaratioiis for p'tliiii.' her otV I he iuaui.

II. We had liroiiuht from the >hip a pick-a\e. two sliovdv, two ice anchors, a

liiMtaekle and a snatch lilock. (diixidiiiiiu that .i^ she la\ mi the top of a siopinn'

lieach, and not far oti" the liii:li-waler mark, il would he ijuite suHicicnt to jict

her alioiif half her lenutli over that mark, and the tide would do the rest. All

tlie ircar she had was her standiii!.'' riiiuiiii,; ( .Mudiaii riu', a |iiice of chain calile,

ic; ,. small anchor, one arm of wiilch wa^ lirukeii olf. I'ndtr the hatches was

I'l !■ provision, coii'-i-iiiiii of iiiioul one do/en cask>-, wjiich we pit out, also her

•ail-, and •■ad them to ihv,forthev were in a verv dami) state and urentiv
II .■..■•.. ■, . , ■ , ' . '^ . •

...:i.i. .. . .1

I M IMII .till

.. ..II :. . I- i:

I IIU t I tj 11.111 I I I \ III

- ] _ ri-v^oiai, a it"

ol' old spars, vvhieli came in liandv as rollers.

wiiii^e?., aiiii two or tiM'ic pieec's

lOA

12. The iinchi)r I hurii-d at low-watrr tnark, paNMoii tlio tliain round licr an a «'•"''»•«''•" ^'"1*
nccklwc ill (I hookfd on tlir liiH", wlicn, al'trr ck'urin^ a ^n-at (|imntitv of sliingU'
from undrr ncr bilge, hove taut, lint, with all our ctlorts, mIu- did nut hudp! one
incli. However, determining not to lie eiinipu red, we had another exammation
into the nliingie mider her port liilge and keel, when, on elearing away, found
iihe wan liurd Im-'cn right I'ori'iind alt ; it waw ><iion eleari-il ; wt'dges brought into
plav; two rolK ~ uot under her; anoliier trial, when, lo and behold I the other
arm «if' the anelr i broke off. 'i'he iee anchors were then Inul recour^ to, plHet'd
in till" very smne hjiot. will buried, and two or three casks ot' suit [.•. /visions on
them, and althi'iiuh wo gol \\i II down into the ice, direetly the strum ciuiiv on,
the anchors jniii|H(I t'airlv imt ot the ground, and I began to t'eiu we shouUl
have to giv<.' it up until we got niou strength Ironi the ship. We were only
four and one I iH'-taekle to L. luli over u shingle U'acb a vessel of tsvelve totis*
burthen, and doidiled nearly up to (lie plank shear. The ship was at least tintr
miles oil", and knowiiiu lull well that Oic ludd ill spare sti>iigtli Irom their
pre^ent occupation, 1 nx '\ed on making another iirinijit, and Ik bringing a new
auxiliary into plus was siicc( s-,tul.

i;j. On the starboard tpnirter ol' the " Mary " lay a large grounded piece
ice, left, I suiipose, by the last tide (the vvn^tA was lyinu; with her stern tn tlvi-
water); in the outer edge of this ice the two anclioi ^ were tixed; then a haig
strap, made of a pii'ce of spare rope, to «hich the Inlt-tuekle, as well as to ilie
necklace, «as hooked, and on its tall one of the viiclit's riumers. 'I'lie \m ilgr«
and rollers had lieen before jilaeed, we thereforL ^et \»ell taut, when, to m\
delight, I found the anchors hold ; so with all our weight and a good will we
itartcd iier. Little us it was, it wa-* ipiite enough ; therefore, after muneroiis fleets
and working steady, by midnight of Tuesday -he was in the water. She 'i iked
a little, certainly ; hnwevei', provisions were put on boaril again, saiU wer. in nt,
and we shoved olV for Mrebus ,nid terror Ba_\ which \>e reached alK)ui lour
o'clock on \Vedne,stla\ ni'Mning in a hcavv siu»\vstorrn and strong breeze "tih vup ^l.'
from N.N.W.

II. It was fortumitewe got in when we chd, for .fore we could make fast to strong "
the ship the wind increased so considerably, thai had wc been blown olf the
iatnl, very j)r()bable so light as the vessel wa>. she vduld have gone bochly to
leeward. The master iid'ormed me too that alnn I all the time I had be- ii
away, just twentv-foiir hours, it had been blowin. hard, either from \.\V.
or S K. With ns in I'nion Hay it appeared ipiite cui i.

l.'i. We iire now working hard to get the ship ilo secnn quarter^ but HnwiMniit.-
notwithstandmg all we had yet cut, she seemed as nmch exposed ase\c'i, for
with the bree/es blowing lately, the outer parts of mr dock was constiintly'
breaking up. It appeared as if the bad weather had >ct in for good, and we
were experiencing some of the rigours ot northern region .

1(). .Mr. M'Cormick was not able to get readv befo c Thursdav, in iact it i^"i' Anmi^i .mc.

Art,*!- iM Kfelii Itajr

Allx'i'i" iiiriv

was blowing too hard ; when at seven o'clock in the mm ing of that day, a sail
was seen in the oiling standing in towards us. As slu approached we could

lainly see it was the " I'riiuc Albert." when at a (|uartcr after ten .Mr.

I'Cormick left for his explorations in Wellington ('ham 1, and just a cpiarter
of an hour after, Mr. Kennedy, the commander of the cw arrival, with the
i'rcnch lieutenant ( Mellot ) had landed on the floe dose to -.

17- Mr M'Cormick was provisioned for one month, and is he had recrived s,. Kminiurciciu-no
orders than Sir Kdward Helcher respecting the coii(lnct i his explorations, I
had in) directions to give him. only furnishing him in ritin

Mr. .Vl'Curmii'k.

g Wltll a

few

BUggestioii-

and intentioi

IS a-. In oin- future proceedmgs. : le expressed great

satisfaction with his (it-iait when lie left.

IH. 'I'he " Prince Albert " wintered in Hatty Hay, arrivii j, there in Septcm- •• I'l
ber ls.")l, shcMtly after vvliicli time- she was driven on shon' by the ice, only
getting otl'again when it cased oil", and by taking nmch weig t out. However,
when all was made snug ag.tin for the winter, Mr. Kennedy o i the .")th .lanuary
l,s.")"i, with a party, started for Fury beach, reaching it on lie Stli, when alter
making a small de|)osit ot pemmican (!«• lbs.) returned tohisv ssel by the \'2t\\.

.Albirl.'

WiiiiiT Qu.itiors.

I'rovt'i'iiinp*.

Hei

ound provisions and c'o;ib at Miry

It F

bc-ach

Ii). On the 'J-'ith February, .Mr. Kennedy again started wit i four men, Mr.

(Hot, the l'"i( lu-h liriilcnant. .-md live dogs. TravcdIing - uithward along

the coast, they came to an old camping place, (Lieut. Uc.hinsons, of the

"Investigator,"! arrived nt ("ape Garncv on flic 1st of April, the Iwttoin ot

ii;

■■"4

106

2u Ii All Ts; ;
L'ltMur« Nt>. i,

I ■.11

Brentford Bay on the 8th, and found open passages among islands (Bellot
Strait) lending through to the westward tv Vittoriii Strait.

"iO. Now to de8cril)c their prooiedings, \c., as near a!< jiossilile, in Mr.
Kennedy's own words. In the ehanncls tlie ire was open with a strong current,
quite as much as six knots, influenced greatly by tin- prevailing winds, and
apparently deep water ; land on either side preci|)it<)us, and niucli broken into
deep fiords. We got through into Victoria Strait on tlie 9tli, and considered
ourselves in the vieinitv of C'ujh' Hird. Tlu' variation Mr. Hellot made
130' \V.

21. From this spot saw a western hnid distant front twenty-five to thirty
miles, which to the northward was apparently continuons round to this. To
the S.W. evidently the sea. We made for this western laii<l in a course varying
from N.X.W. to West, in conseiiuence of the hiimniockv ice, and did not reach
it until tiie I'ith. It was very low, and might, so covered with snow, he easily
taken for the floe, had we not dug for satisfaction, 'rravelling on about the
s:une course, the land almost imperceptibly rising, and snow lying very light
latterly, came to a table land t\venfy-ti\-e or tliirty miles from the coast; when
on the "idth after reaching the meridian of lOd W., turned to the north, and on
the "irth made the latitude T'^" o-'^ N. We now bore to the eastward, and
readied the coast in a bay about I'rescott's Islands (of Sir, I. Ross), ki'pt now to
the northward, passed inside of Sherrard Head, across Hack Hay, and saw the
land on the op]iosite shores ofOmmanney Inlet, walked on for C'ajte Walker
and reached it on tlie 4tli .May, when we saw a large pile of rocks of trap
formation, but what we now consider to Ik- tlie cairn erected by some of t'aptain
Aii>tiii's expedition.

•22. We now proeeedi'd for North Somerset over vi'ry liunimocky ice, and
yeached Limestone Island on the Sth ; foinid at ( 'ape M*( 'lintock the jirovisions
there deposited, and arri\-ed at I'ort Leopold on the l.")tii May. Mere wc
reni.iiiied thirteen days, to recruit not only ourselves but tlij' dogs, for lately we
had nothing to feed the poor biutes on but leatlier. When tlu- ice o|)ening out
we were able to get on, in tlie boat we had ii'I'l here pre\ iously, to within about
four miles otl' Llwin itay, wiiere the ice was again so close that we were obliged
to resume the niarcli, and reached the \cs>el in Hatty H:iy on the I5(lth of .May.

'2'.\. I asked .Mr. Kennedy iiow he had lixed his positions, regulated his course,
itc.. when he referred me to the Frencii ofUcer who has been the navigator
throughout, and as far as I can see and learn a most valuable coadjutor. They
differed a little in courses, iVc. ; but in main points ag;ced very well.

21. Sn<'h is the sketch Mr. Kennedy gave nie of tlieir proeeedinLis ; doubtless
I miylit have got it more fully in writing, but as 1 tliouglit it better to avoid
anything that might be considered like intertirence. took tlie account in this
way, although .Mr. Kennedy was \i'ry anxious to place hiniseli imdi'r my orders.
This, however, I could not agree to, but gave Inni fully to undi'r>tand that I
would render jnm every assistance I pos<ilil\ eould. eniisisteiit with the conduct
of oin' own exi)e(iition.

2."). The " I'rince .Albert" only got out of winter (|uartti> a week since,
passed within sight of I'ort Leopold, and stood over to the noithern shore, when
seeing us in this bay, came in. .Ml appear to have suffered much from scurvy
and hard work, notwithstanding which Mr. Kennedv preferred a reipiest to m"c
iiiitnediaiel\- on landing, and before I got liis aceoiiiit, for a ^ntlieient nuinlier of
men to make up a Iniat's crew ) as he had determined to riinain out himself, if
possible, and complete that portion of the coast yet undiscovered, in the direction
of the magnetic pole, and opposite shore : and which I cannot but help consirlering,
will be the only passage by which either vessels or boat-^ will get to Hehring's
Straits. .Mr Kennedy ■> rea>ori for going north in>lead of south after getting
into \ ictoria Strait, was iii-^ not Ih ing aware ot an\ one having Urn at Cape
\\ alker. looking on it as a likely jtlaee to get intorniation : hence the mistake
about the cairn.

2(j. This re(|uest of .Mr. KenneiU's \\a> lalliei a |ai//linn (]ue-tion to decide
on, one I was not at all prepared for; and having beloiv me still an occurrence
similar in a former expeiiition, I was ratia r at a loss how to act. .\s it req ired
some consideration, I lecjuested .Mr. Kennedy to give nie in writintj what he
wished to do, thv probability of its aecoinpiish'nieni, also \sliat he iequired Wv.m
us for its execiitinii. He therelore reliinied to l,is xcs^el. which wa' now close
into the floe, and the next morning he gave me the required let lei.

i'M

107

27. Mr. Keiuif dy did not enter wo tiilly in this letter into his plans as he had
done to me i:i the course of conversation before. However, taking into con-
sideration liis known ciipabilitics lor the work, the help of a good train of dogs
whicl) he would take with iiini, his men well accustomed to the travelling, and
the assistance rc(|uired troni us being so small, (though quite as much as I
could spare at the time), barely more than ship room, with the bringing the
field of search to so narrow a spas'c, dec idcd me on giving him the required j.^,
assistance. I therefore sent him a letter, stating that 1 acceded to his request.
Shortly after I received a reply, on the same day, saying that his men were Diito No. j.
unfit tor work on the ice: however we were doing very well without them, as
I began to see our cutting for the present would soon be over,

'JH. Mr. Kemiedy's intention was to send the "Prince Albert" oft" for F-ngland
as soon as possible, himself and party, in all amounting to six men, leaving soon
alter ibr Port JA'o])old, when on landing there to advance caches of provision for
spring travelling as far as possible, expecting to reach the bottom of Brentford
liay ; then return to I'ort l/copold, and cross to us to pass the winter, either
on the ice or by boat, as circumstances pcrniitted, leaving the " Mary" behind.
Early in the spring of 18r>;i he was to cross the ice again to Leopold, and coin-
nunce his journey southward, with a very confident hope of getting back to
us (|uite in time to go home by the first opportunity that might oH'er.

21). I now prepared a party to accompany this gentleman, and as it was likely i>,„,v !„, j[r.

NO. 1.

•ilv.

Mr. Bcllot would return to England, I directed Mr. Alston (mate) to hold
himself in readiness, not only to take the charge of our own men, but to assist
Mr. Kennedy in every way, and look on him as the head and leader oi' the
party.

lU). I envied Mr. Kennedy the trip he was about to undertake, not only as
to clearing up the uncertainty of the missing ones being in that direction, and
so contracting the space for search, but proving, what in my own uund is clear,
and of whicli 1 have long had no doubt of, that in that direction is the only
passage to tlu' .\iuerican continent that will ever be available, and which
we have been so long looking for.

.■^1. We were now getting on gradually with our dock cutting, while the
" Prince Albert's" people were transferring the stores, a list of which ajjpears
in Mr. Kennedy's letter to me of the "iltth, to our hold. .Vli hough we had .s.v i;m.i,. nn.' No.
advanced pri'tty far into the bay by cutting, the ice was fre(|uently bieiiking
off in lai'L'i' Hoi' pieces, leaving us without a dock, and constantly fluting ii]) our
anchors. ! lowever I went on, still hoping we should shortly be (|uite 1'nr ciiuugli n.uk (■.'uii..r.
for saletv, as all the ice inside the first point of the ishmd was without a single
crack in it. or started in the least from the land, nofwithsttindin!;- tlu' winds
have bi'cii blowing strong from north and north-west, with dirty unnk'asniif
snowv wv.itlier. On the 2;5;l 1 gave u|) cnlting any iiiore, deferring tlu; iiiial
dock until the lev brok ■ oiV up to the point, thinking, from the before-mentioned
circumstance, that it would not go any further; but considering it \ery
probal)le th.'tt some of those strong gusts of wind now so freipient, assisted b}-
pressure oi' ihc Ik-ivv iiietc'- of iec. often bivaking off, might (lri\e us cnit to
sea, we prepaicd I'oi' it by donbk' reeling the topsails, and hoisting the boats up,
fei'liiiii' I'onlidenf that so lonir as the young ice did not make we could regain
our position oi' hold our own under canvas.

,'vi. The " rrinee .Vlherl" all this time was lying close under our stern, and
making all ])reparations for lea\ing, when on .\londay I got a letter from .Mr.
Kemu'dv , saving that hi' "•'•■ -^onv to Hud he nvi'-t gi\;' up all idea of the ixjie-
dition he had planned for the futuiv, as his men had witlninnvn, the ostensible
reason being, as he al'terwards told me, that they did not Ihink our men could
perlbrm the jnirney not even keep up in travelling. I'nder these eiicuin-
stances Mr. Keime(l\ considend it better to give it up, and make the best oi'
his wav home. As for oiir men not being able to do the woik was, I think, a
niiseonceptioii. lor I was perlectlv satisfied that they would have got on as well
as the others, and were bolh ri'ady and willing to go. 1 think it a good oppor-
tunity los'i ; sneh another may not occur, for the advantages are so L-icat in
haviiiti' i)ro\ i](/:is t I'orl l,eo|i.)ld a!ul l''ury beach, and knowing the greater
part ol'lhe wav, and with dogs into the bargain, it could not but be suece-ist'ul.
1 sill. old like >ueh ail ojijiortuniiy t.i be thrown in my way.

'.V.i. In rcpiv to Mr. Kennedy's letter I gave hhn fairly my view on the
subject, and reiiuested him to take the provisions he had put on board c f us

0 2

Kill

'.111 .Vugir.t, Air. Ki
.■il\ 's witJKir.rva!.

S... l;.id,.

It.-.,

Op,

Ki>, I

No.

! I

Mi:

! i

\ k

1 ■ ;

f.'i

Proviiioni landetl by
•' Prince AUhti," and
pldctd vncuctu''.

4th Aunu'-t, " Princi'
Alt>ert" ImvM.

•* Prince AlbiTt
ledvis ler doc*.

Iluw i-niployi'il.

lOS

tor the use i)f his own men to his own vessel again, but instead of doing so he
decided on landing it on the island, and placing it encaohe, disposable for any
purpose required. I therefore promised to put them into the house about to bo
built, when finished.

34. Mr. Kennedy decided on leaving the next evening, therefore after havinff
got all his provisions on shore, completed an unsuccessful search of the island
and northern shores of the bay, then came on board to say good bye. When I
Iiad li mdcd to him all despatches lett with me for transmission, together with
my litters to the Secretary of the Admiralty, they letV, us, and at 7'30 p.m. the
" Prince Albert" made all sail for old Kngland, in a heavy snow storm, and
strong N.W, wind.

3"). Mr. Kennedy had intimated to me his intention of drowning his dogs when
he got to sea, rather than take them home ; I Iwgged that he would leave tliera
here, as their having been trained by his own men, and spoken of so highly,
they would be of great service to us. He complied, and also left with his pro-
visions a gutta percha boat. He wished to have in exchange our dingey for
his second Iwat (a mahogany whale boat), but as she was our most useful one,
especially for running out warps, I declined. From Port Leopold he brought
all letters loft there by Sir James Ross, and Mr. Kennedy having visited that
place so lati !y, and finding the provisions in good condition, I have decided on
not going there this season.

36. We were now busy cleaning up the ship, having done nothing since
clearing out the supplies for the squadron; consequently she was in rather a
dirty state from the coal-dust. All our attention had been directed to getting
into a good berth for winter, which kept all hands full of activity cutting dock.
Material was also taken on shore for the house, when after selecting the site on
the south east part of the island, in about the most sheltered place Irom the
cold north winds; the dimensions were marked out, 30 x (Jo, and men began
digging for the main supports — rather a difficult job, for the ground was frozen
hard a short depth from the surface.

37. The ice now appeared all fast inside a line from the first jwint of Beechey
Island, within where the steep cliffs recede from the coast, across the bay to
about one mile north of Point Uiley; and we were lying close up to the Hoe, fast
by ice anchors, with seven fathom- of water under the ship, ancl about a quarter
of a mile from the shore. (Quantities of the ice that had broken off came into
the i)ay again, which, with the young ice making and holding all together, it
formed sometimes a compact body all round us ; and considering the ship in
about as good a position as she could pcssihly l)e imtil the ice fully made, I
resolved not to defer the visit to Maxwell Hay any longer, or it might he pre-
vented altogether. One of the cutters was tlierelbre ])repared with one month'8
provisions for five men, Mr. Alston (mate, who volunteered to take the place
(if the sixth man and do bis work), and myself, when, after handing to Mr.
T. C. Pullen (master) instructions relative to the care and duties of the ship,
at 2.30 of the afternoon of the '26th I shoved off with a good breeze fresh
from N.X.K.

38. We ran speedil} across the l)ay towards Cape Riley, and at five minutes
after four were ofl' Gascoine Inkt, which was quite clear of ice. Off Cape
llicketts passed through a great (piantity of sludge and broken Hoe driving out
of Kadstock Bay ; stood across tor Point Kardley Wijmot, when about half-
way the wind, having freshened up, with such a nasty iopof a sea, against which
we made so little headway and shipped so nuuh water that 1 was compelled to

B««r up nihi run i.uk. 'near up and run back for Ciascoine Inlet, «liich, under the then existing circum-
stances, was the only safe landing, RacKtock Bay being f'ldl of ice and driving
hea\ily on the leeward shore. Entering the inlet nuich loose and hea\y ice was
beating on the eastern shore for about two miles inside the point, with a strong
breeze blowing dead out, causing us both difliculty in getting in and landing:
however, by i0.1"> I'.M. succeede<l, hauled the boat up above the high water
mark, and pitched our tent.

.3!>. In clearing the boat I saw directly \vliat it was made hei-, naturalh' so
buoyant, so log-like in rising to the sea. The men in stowing her had, instead
of letting the tarpaulin in the bottom to place the provisions on, \c., lie flat,
iuriied it iijt, makiiig a large and deep dish ; consequently, the water she shipped
could not escape to the well, and was never wholly baled out. At all events,
before starting again, I decided on leaving part of the provisions here till our

Sutt' :iii(l position ut'
the ice.

Stf Kiiclovnri- (I I)).
2fith Aiiiruvl, K-avf tor
.Mat » til I)a>.

CiscoltK- Inlet.

I.jnd antl cneriinp.

10^

return; and judging from appearances, we were likely to have a detention,
perhaps for some time ; we got our suppers, a most welcome repast ; into our
blanket bags, and slept soundly for the remainder of the night.

40. It was blowing hard all this day, weather looking very dirty and rather 27th Augmt.
too much sea on for a boat ; we, therefore, held on. A meridian alt. at the

point gave the latitude 74° 38' N., C!ape Riley bearing N. 77° W., and the Pwition.

opposite high bluft' point of the inlet N. 46° W. A very indifferent set of sights

for time in the afternoon made the longitude 91° ^0' W., which places the point

farther west than the chart. In the meantime a hole was dug, provisions buried,

and boat loaded again ; when, moderating towards night, the next morning we

shoved off, and on the evening of the 29th landed a short distance froin the head 29th AuguA

of Maxwell Bay.

41. As there was time to look round l)efore dark, I walked to the hill rising
almost from where we landed, when I got on a soil of terraced land, and strolled
on the lowest step for about one mile further north, getting thereby a good view
round. The land all round the head of the bay had no break in it either to
indicate an open passage, or the possibilit}- of a foot party travelling to a
northern water or Jones's Sound from this vicinity. The ice was not clear yet
from the upper part of the bay, neither for some way down its eastern shores
within the islands, there being one more than shown in our charts ; the bay also
is not so wide. Finding this the state of things, I resolved on turning back for

the ship ; waitinjj, however, for the noon observation the next day, which I was aoih August.
fortunate in getting, giving the latitude 74° 42' 7" N. ; for time I was not so Position.
successful, as the fog was hanging about in heavy wreaths ; but the single obser-
vation that I did get, bad as I considered it, gave ISH" 44' 1.5" for longitude. It
contracted the head of the bay \ery much, but hardly more than it really
re(iuires ; and as a l)earing of the eastern point of Leopold Island cut very nearly
through the position, it cannot be far out. The variation I made 142" ',io' W.

42. We now shoved off on our return, pulled for the head of the bay, and R«;«"f" '<> Dwchey
without seeing any cause for further detention, proceeded for Beechey Island. '"'"'" '
Arrived at Gascome Inlet on the 1st of September, took the provisions up, and

the next day got on board the ship, which, to my surprise, was lying at anchor

in seven fathoms water, a quarter of a mile off shore, and some distance further

in towards the head of the bay, all the ice having driven out, leaving clear open

water. From Mr. PuUen, the master, I received a report of what had occurred .Sie Enclosure (3 d.)

during my absence.

43. In this trip we were hardly on shore less than twice a day, besides the
tiuje for bivouacking ; also whenever we could get the chance for tracking
along the l)each, sometimes for hours, so that nothing escaped us ; and although

the visit to Maxwell Hay has been unsuccessful in the main point, I think it will More circles of stones.

suffice to clear up most effectually the conclusions arrived at by some, that the '*"*°™"'''

circles of stones found at Cape Riley were placer! by our missing countrymen,

but are to all intents and purposes the remains of old Esquimaux encampments.

'i lie first place I saw these remains was a mile or two to the westward of Cape

Herschel, where we landed (when going) for (liiiner, or. a clean gravelly beach,

with lots of ice piled along at the high water mark, which, after siiniiounting, we

got on a slightly elevated terrace, backed up by high cliH's at the depth of eighty

yards. On my return the wind, after passing Cape Herschel, came against us,

and while the crew were tracking along this beach, I had a good exannnation of

these stones, — no less than four circles all of a row, quite similar to those seen

at Cape Kiley, and of very ancient date, for they were moss covered, and some

deeply imbedded in the ground. Among them, too, I found several vertcbriu

and skulls of the white whale and seal. Further to the westward, but on the

same beach, washing in with the tide (just then last quarter ebb), I saw the tail

of a white whale, which brought immediately to my recollection those pieces of

skin picked up off Krelms and Terror Hay, by Sir E. Heklier's boat the evening

we were returning from Gascoine Inlet, and which were pronounced to be portions

of a white whale.

44. At Cape Hurd I saw the cairn left by former visitors, also Sir Edward ^*p'' *'"'*
Belcher's notice ; I left one likewise. Looking round, I came upon no less than

three circles of stones, just about the same size and character as all I have before
w..r>n hnf nnt nnito so di>)tinirnishab1e. tor I dare sav we should have passed
L'casion ; at all events I see no reason to alter the opinions

& :

hi.

. £

I 1-

any

0 3

ill

i'.tii

Seircity i>f Animnl
Ufa.

Dead Tree Fotiiut.

Brcakan teen.

Wi-alliir.

We.iiluT. Kc

Drift ice in till' Ha_\.

Sail in tight.

' Isahi'T' C'):i.ccturci.

I have before expressed as to what they were. I also saw at Cape Hard the
marks of a tent, with several tins and a piece of stone l)ottle.

45. Animal lite I cannot say that 1 saw plentiful ; Maxwell Bay itself seemed
the most prolific as far as seals went, for they were swimminfj; about in great
numbers. There was also a pretty good share of moUymoks. A small flock of
geese I saw, making all haste to the southward. Just as we were landing on a
small piece of floe ice, we found tiie remains of a freshly killed seal, doubtless
the work of Mr. Bruin; traces only of two were seen in the trip. I also got
sight of a walrus, the only one 1 have seen in these regions with tiie exception of
that on board the "Assistance."

46. Encamping one night at the head of a small bay at tht- west of Cape
Herschel, I found well up on the l)€ach the root and stem of a fir tree, bleached
and rotten with age. Its extreme length was twenty feet four inches, and
circumference above the roots three feet six inches. It afforded us a most com-
fortable fire that night ; a piece of it was brought on board.

47. Tracking along the beach to the west of Cape Herschel, and very nearly
to the eastern point of the small bay above mentioned, I saw extending from
a short distance oft' the beach, for about two miles towards the eastern shore, a
narrow belt of breakers. It was nearly low water at the time, with a moderate
breeze from S. W. We did not see this going, the water then Ix'ing quite smooth
and nearly the top of flood. What I took to be Cape l''elH'ott bore .S. 68" E.,
which will place me on the spot from where I saw the breakers.

48. The weather during the trip was tine, considering the lateness of the sea-
son, with the exception of the one day detained at Gascoine Inlet, by a hard
blow from N.X.E., and too much sea for the b:)at. Snow and fog we had occa-
sionally, but never prevented our getting on. The mean range of the tliermo-
meter was 29 6+ maximum, 43 , minimum '22 \.

49. Mr. M'Cormick had not returned to the ship, and 1 found that the build-
ing of the house had progressed rapidly ; l)ut on examining into the remainder
of the means for its completion on so large scale as 60 x '.W, found that material
was not in sufficient quantity. It was, theretbre, reduced to M) x '25, and the
ca' lenter soon had as nmch of it up again as we could accomplish this season;
wi jn the stores on shore, with what Mr. Kennedy iiad left were put in, and
snugly arranged for the present time.

oO. Whilst the carpenter was about the house, the crew were busy on board
cr arrnngements, and all were anxiously awaiting the freezing over of
or it was such an uncertain time that the dismantling could not be fidly
as we knew not whether we may not yet l>e driven out to sea. It was
rion that when the ice fully made, to take her 1 short distance' further
nal winter berth.

winds still held from the quarters between N. and N.W., strong

with
the b:
eticctt
my in

in for

rA.

somcti

its win I

S with occasional heavy falls of -now conqiletely covi'ring the land with
garb ; imd up to the 6lh, the thermometer in the open air never lower
than 2'2.5 -.< , whilst the sea ranged between 27 and 29; however, there were no
signs of its freezing over in the bay, except in the sheltered parts of shallow
water, distant from the influence of the sweeping tide, rushing through betwcdi
the eastern part of Heechey Island and the main.

'y2. On the morning of the 7th of September the wind was light from K. and
K.S.E., with tine clear weather; thermometer 21 in aii, :^1 in water. A loose
stream «)f ice, which had evidently been drivintj iqi the Itanow Strait, was lying
across the mouth of the bay, and along the southern shores of Heechey
Island, sweejnng well into the bay, and passing not very far outside of our
anchorage. On this our attention was fixed, when at light o'clock, to o\n- great
surprise and delight, a sail was descried in the otting, which, on being announced,
ran like wildfire through the ship. All were soon on deck, with, from every
tongue, " Where is the craft ?"

.53. Various were the conjectures as to who she was, — one thing certain, she was
none of our own sipiadron, for she wasconiiiig fVoin a wrong direction, when, — lo
and behold ! a long dark murky pendant streamed out ahead, and we saw that
she had at all events a steam power in requisition,— at the same time was a brig-
antine. She made her number, when, after some little (h-lay, we found in
.Marryatt's Signal Mooks iliiit it wis vn, other than th.c " Isiibel," wliich was (it-
ting out about the same time as ourselves, for a search in Behring's Straits. As

Ill

to who could be her commander was a matter of conjecture, for we all knew of
Mr. Bcntson's misfortunes bcTorp wc left F-nffland; hut, wearing no pendant hut
a smoke one, al] were satisfied that she sailed under no Queen's coiuniissioii;
therefore, one other of the private expeditions sent forth by a woman's dcvoted-
ness, — which unhappily, like the public ones, have as yet all proved uj/iuccessful
in the main cause.

54. At 10 she got in, passed close to, and anchored half a cable's length
N.N.E. of us, with our boat, which had been manned in readiness, on board,
and soon returning, bringing her commander and sundry packages, when
I had the pleasure of welcoming in these regions Connnander Ingleficld. commnnder ingiefleU.
Although I had never seen him l)efore, it was a most welcome and dt-lightful
occurrence, and I am sure was expressed in the countenance of all onboard, who
were on deck to receive the new comers.

65. We were soon brimful of intelligence, and, although not of success in the
grand object, certainly of the most pleasing kind, showing again the advantage
of steam in these regions, together with what can be done by it, coupled with
energy and a good season ; which Captain Ingletield has certainly made the
most of. He informed me that he lelt l^ngland on the 10th of July, was towed
out, and a good start given him by one of our steamers ; and was at Uppernavik
on the '20th of August, having visited Holsteinberg on his way up

56. He passed through Melville Bay without difficulty; had been into Wol-
etenholme Sound ; exanu'ned the cairns there ; visited Whale Sound, Smith's
Sound, and .lones's Sound ; and examined the coast most satisfactorily and
closely, without finding the smallest traces of Franklin. On his return to Noir.ics,
England, he should look along the western shores of Baffin's Bay and Davis'
Strait; and proving successful in meeting one of the Arctic squadron, should

leave tiiis evening ; tlierefore, bcggeil we would get all letters and dispatches
ready as soon as possible.

57. "^riiis was the account (^aptain Ingletield gave me ; and although feeling
a certain disappointment at his not having been successful in finding traces, yet
there was nnich for gratification, that so nmch had been done by one of our own
glorious profession, and a brother officer too. He gave me a tracing for Sir E. s.o iratine.
Belcher, wherein is marked his track, and everything worthy of notice, which

has put a very different feature on the coast-line of the upper part of Baffin's
Buy, hitlicrto ajipearing in our charts ; also added greatly to our geographical
knowledge, let alone crossing the threshold of further research or discovery.

58. \lr. Abernethy, the well-known ice-master, was with Captain Ingletield,
and talking over witii him the subject of the cairn, &c. reported as having been
seen in .Jones's Sound, it was soon cleared up. They have been further up that
sound than any vessel previous ; and one day, Abernethy being in the crow's
nest, reported that he could see a cairn on shore; a boat was innnediately ("urns.
di'spatched to an island on the iiortlien shore, 1st of September, when, what had
appeared at a distanie like a cairn, on a nearer approach turned out to be nothing
more tlian a ])ile or lieap of rocks, thrown together by some natural convulsion,

or other unknown cause.

.'i9. This, when I come to consider the circumstances alluded to, gives me no
reason to alter the opinion 1 formed on reading the letter of Mr. Francis Lee,
dated Mth.lune, 18.') I, from which, I should certainly say, the ship was in Lan-
caster Sound, entering it from the northward and passing drse along shore;
they in the boat saw something similar, and at once pronounced it a cairn. The
man from whom the report was taken was in the " Prince Albert," and neither
Mr. Kennedy nor any one else put much faith in his veracity at any time.
Again, the supposition ol' a coinnuniication by water between .lones's Sound and
Baring Bay, which 1 believe arose from this man's story, .Messrs. Stewart and
Sutherland have settled; however, Mr. M'Cormiek, the surgeon of this ship,
will effectually set it at rest. 1 am nmst anxiously looking for his return, more
particularly as it would have been most gratifying to connnunicate to their Lord-
ships the result of his search. Mr. Sutherland was with Captain Ingleficld,
and expressed surprise that ;m expedition should have been sent to Baring Bay.
He considered it entirely useless.

60. I hardly know what to think of the missing ships, for we have now been
so frequently baffled in the search, with not even a record found, that I I'cel
grcatl>' iiui ned to place faith in wiint was seen on the ice on the banks of New
loundland t.' have been them. But the immense piece of ice spoken of, agair.

i U

I; It'

renders it rather improbable, for I can hardly think such a quantity could get
whole 80 far south. It is true, the estimate of size may nave lieen greatly
enlarged. Look at it in whatever light you choose, there was a great want of
humanity in the parties in not attempting to ascertain the true character; and
such as could hardly Ih" expected of a sailor or any one else.

61. Captain Infjletield lias opened out, 1 consider, a much more likely passage
to the Pole, or into what is called ti\e Polar Basin, although I cannot say I put
much faith in tiie tlicorx . AgMin, if possibly northerly, a l)ctter opening to a

OpinioM. route to Bhcring's Straits. Hut I shall ever hold to my opinion, formed in 1849,

that it will only be by a southern passage that you will approach the American
coast, — M)nie of those jiassages from Lancaster Sound or Haridw Straits, and it
nuist be by small vessels, I'or in all cases of Arctic navigation they are nmch
better adiipteil : no vessel ought to Ik' of greater draft than eight feet ; they
would then keep oH the gnnuid if driving, and rise Iwtter in a nip.

62. All were now l)usy getting letters ready for Kngland ; while the " Isalwl"
was preparing for the completion of her further examinaticms and homeward
voyage, t'aptain Ingletield was on shore, searching and hmking into the improve-
ments of Bcechey Island ; first and foremost among which was Nortluunl)erland
House, not yet finished cr'tainly, but when so I hope will Ik.' worthy of its name.
Amongst the many things Captain Inglefield offered for our use were two
travelling stoves, supplied to him from Woolwich Dockyard, for which the
master gave him a receipt ; also some of tiie northern voyages, and a few hydro-
graphical instruments. Provisions he also would have given us, but we were so
liberally supplied, that I felt we really did not want them.

6.'3. On \Vednesday morning Captain Inglefield completed an unsuccessful
search of Bcechey Island ; came on board to say good bye ; and at 2 a.m., all
our letters being finished, among whicii there was one for their Lordships, and
duplicates of all Sir K. Belcher had IcfV, the originals having gone in the " Allwrt,"
he wished us good luck, and proceeded to his vessel. Steam la-ing nearly up,
he got under weigh, wlien at .'Jh. loni. she made sail to a moderate K.S.E. breeze,
and stood out of the bay with l)eautiful clear weather and our hearty good
wishes.

64. Again were we once more alone, after a short and so unexpected a visit.
It was like a ray of glorious sunshine; and from letters and papers received from
our island home, a happy assura>ice that we were not only held ever in
remembrance, and earnestly prayed for by fond and loving hearts, but had the
anxieties and sympathies of our country with us.

6.'). This is indeed cheering, more particularly so when we still have that liest
and powerful help which has hitiierto protected us in the hour of peril and
difficulty. It is most merriful in His all-wise dispensation, that we know not
yet what is before us, but who can fear or doubt under such a merciful
guardianship.

66. Disappointed as I was at the '" Isabel's" short stay, I could not but l)e
pleased when she disapjK'ured round ( 'a])e Riley, for the season being so far
advanced, I felt that the sooner she was out oi' Lancaster Soimd the better;
particularly as they purposed visiting the western shores of Baffin's Bay, &c. It
IS true that the season has l)een a very oikmi one, but it is impossible to calculate
on the movements of ice, or say when all navigation in these seas will cease for
the time. Captain Inglefield was ecpially anxious to get away, as well as about
his future proceedings; and injustice, I think, he has done great things. I
trust he will get safe home, and meet tiiat appreciation and reward his exertions
have well earned. The ice-master, .\i)ernethy, said he had never seen such an
open season in the whole course of his expurience ?
Mh Sepiemiwr i8«. 6". At 8 A.M., the wcatlier still continuinti tine, with temperature in the air
standing i;t -••"» ( ./"id sea yet higii 29, with no ice in llic bay, and wind from
L.N.l']., fair for Wellington Channel, I decideil on sending a boat away at
once, for the purpose of carrying into execution the completion of Sir K.
Belcher's oideis, instead of waiting until the ice made, as I. hail t)riginally
intended doing it by sledge. It W(uild also be the means of ascertaining whiit
caused the detention of Mr. .M'Coriniek (surgeon), tor I was reallv beginning
to feel anxious alniut him. A boat was therefore equipped, not only with
provi>*ioi)s for lier crew, but a quantity for deposit; when at tiiree o'clock she
Sec Encioture E. sliovcd otf 111 (liaige of Mr. Sliellaliear, the secon<i master, to whom I gave
Mr sheiubeaTienn. written instructions l<>r his guidance. The wind being fresh when he left, it

Rlh September.

•* lubcl* letics fiT
England.

ReAeciiun>.

113

took the boat smartly up to the narrow pasHuge, between Beechcy Island and
the main, and into Union Bay.

68. At 8 P.M. a boat was seen coming i'roni the northward under sail, and Mr. M'Cormitk r*.
•hortly after Mr. M'Cormick arrived on board the ship, all well, having commu- '"'"*•
nieated with Mr. Slu'Uabcar off (Jape Spencer, and leaving him under all Hail,
•teering north with a I'avoiirublc breeze, so that I anticipate his return soon.

69- The doctor's trip iuul been (juitc unsuccessful, l)oth as to finding any "j^^""!' "f Mr. M'Cof-
traces, or a conmumiciition with Jones's Sound, through by Baring Bay. in '"'" ""''■
fact he fully confirmed what both Messrs. Stewart and Sutherland had l)cfore
stated, that the land is continuous all round ; and further that there is no hope
of leading a party by land east^vard from that vicinity. The furthest north Mr.
M'Cornnck had been was Point Hogarth, and that by parti}' travelling. He left
the shij) on Thursday, and the Monday following reached Baring Bay, having
met with nmch detention from the ice ; however, as I had appointed Cape
Osl)orne the limit of Mr. Shellabear's journey, I hope to see him back in less ii,pect«tion.
than a week, the time I liad calculated on for perfornung the work, and the
period for which he was victualled; besides two cases of bread (112lbs.), and
two cases of pennnican (74lbH.) for depots.

70. On the 11th a liawk was seen hovering about the ship, and frequently nini. depMting, lub
attempted to alight on the topmast heads ; the plumage was a dead white, with Sopiemijor.
black spots ; l)efore a gun could be procured the bird was off, in fact following

the example shown by all the feathered tribe, who were fast leaving these
inhospitable regions. Occasionally we got sight of a few stray burgomasters
(yoimg ones), molemoks, and young dovekies, now a pretty speckled black and
white plumage. A small seal was seen playing amongst the ice to-day along
the beach, the oidy one we have seen for a long time ; however, he soon disap-
peared. The last one we saw on the lj)th.

71. Monday l.'itli, Mr. Shellal)ear returneo, iiavingonly partially effected the
object for w hich he went, in consequence of the rapid formation of the young ice
in the shoal water, extending in many places some distance off shore, as well as

the sheltered spots, the particulars of which appear in his journal of proceedings, scc in Enciotur* e.

72. All hands were now on board, n>ucli to my satisfaction; the preparations
for winter therefore went on rapidly. The housing was fitted and tried, and the
quarter-deck portion kept up, tlierebv kept off u deal of snow which had fallen
lately most plentifully. Tiie Sylvester was lighted on the 11th, the first time
since it was tried, more for the purpose of giving the ship a thorough drying
before the frost made, for all along the side nmch damp appeared to have
accumidated.

73. Since the " Isal)el" had left, nmch ice had formed in the bay, together ice in th« boy.
with what has driven in with south an<l S.E. winds, it has frequently been
covered, and apparently so connected, that we have often supposed that it was

fast for a full due ; but north and N.W. winds, with the current or tide through
the opening between the island and the main, would soon drive it out again,
east or west winds keeping it in, but sliifting from one side of the bay to the
other, and packing up ; so that at such times no communication could be he Id
with the shore, to the detriment of our jioor dogs. It also kept me in a continued
state of apprehension, for there was e\erv chance that a strong wind from N.W.
or north, and tiie ice of any thickness, we should be driven out with it ;
conse(juently all the sea gear was kept bent, and rudder shipped.

74. I considered that we were (piite far enough in the bay for all safety, and
having giwd holding ground (a stiff' white mud or marl), which has been well
tried, feared not that the harvest winds alone would start us ; it would only be
when accompanied with drix ing ice that our position would be critical.

75. As we may expect the north and N.W. winds to be the strongest, I anti-
cipate no evil from any other quarter ; and, although the mouth of the bay is
very wide and open to south and S.E., yet 1 believe we do not get them strong
or to last from those quarters. However, my own opinion as to this place for u
winter harbour is very much against it, particularly such a draft as (mrs is. My
first impression was not in its favour: I would jirefer (iascoine Inlet.

7(). 1 had begun a survey of the bay, and, although I embraced every oppor-
tunity that tiie ever-varying changes of the weather would allow, it got on very
shiwly ; neveitheiess, it led us ov er ground which otherwise might not have been
visited. The oincers, too, in iiieir vvaiuieiiiigs, as well as tlic men, when on
shore, were strictiv enjoined to keep their e}es about them, so that there was

Surwy of bay, &c.

114

twptmlMr IHii.

Calnii.

((■{Mrinbcr \»M.

Uttum to iIm ihip.

ProcMd tu lilt ciiirn«

L'niucoMiru Manli.

Ralum to •hi|>.

Plan for funher nuch.

very little iliaiice of anything e!«capiiig tliat ini^ht at all lead to a certain cliN
tor tmckiiig up the niij^sing onus.

77- ()'» the morning of the 1 Ith, us I was pulling for the N.K. comer of the
bay, )*u\v on upproiiehing it that, from tlience lowunU Cape ililey, the whole of
the shore was lined witii heavy ice, lately driven in hy Houtherly winds, whicb
obliged me to steer more for the northern siiore, and along it to reach the desired
spot. When t)n the summit of the high laud, a little more easterly than in the
middle of the northern shore, overlooking the entrance of the bay, and marked
in the chart I'pper ("aim, saw what I took tor two b<'nrs, which on a nearer
approach I perceived to be two large stones, or piles of stones, showing very dis-
tinctly ii> cimtrast with the snow. 1 thought little of the circumstance at the
time, consequently went on to where I wished to land, and walked along the
eastern coast towards Ca|)e Hilev, occasionally taking angles tor fixing coasts
line, and erecting small piles ot' stones that 1 may recover the spot again if
re(juired. Returning and passing over nearly the same groimd, came upon •
small pile of stones, with several pieces of well-bleached small line alnrnt it,
which 1 considered to Ik- a surveying-station similar to what I had lieen putting
up myself, and close to one of tliem. It was turned over and examined most
minutely', but nothing further was found.

78. Returning to the ship, we again passed the stones before seen, when, on
taking a long look with a telescope, saw that they were, the upper one in

f>articular, regular built cairns, but, as it was getting late, I did not visit them,
iilly determining on giving them a full and searching investigation to-morrow.

79. Atler breakfast <m the morning of the I'lth I proceeded tt) the northern
shores of the bay with three otficers and a boat's crew, the necessary implements
for digging, and, landing under the hill on which the piles were situated, the
ascent was commenced. Passing along the edge of a deep ravine full of snow,
which lay on our left, in twenty minutes we gained the brow, when the objects
yesterday seen fully displayed their structure.

80. T^he nearest and lowest one was nearly on the edge of the steepest part
of the hill, and consisted of three or (bur large slabs of limestone, so built up as
to leave a space right through the two end stones, with a large slab on top. The
furthest ann larger one was more up the hill, 17^ feet distant from the lower one,
in a N.E. direction ; and so sanguine was I of their having been built by
Franklin's people, that I most contidently exjK'cted that we should have most
certainly found a record of some sort.

HI. 'ihe upper caira was the first to which my attention was directed. It
was composed t)f large slabs of liniistone placed on end and filled in with small
stuff (gravel) to a height of aih,;it four feet, thus forming a good solid structure,
with no appearance indicative of age or decay, or that there had l)een anything
more in it — for instance, a pole in the centre. Pulling it down, all seemed fresh,
with nothing to show that it had stood any very great length of time ; but
alas I like all other efforts, disappointment was our reward, when, after digging
as far down as possible and over a g<K)d s-pace. not a vestige, not a relic, was to
be found of those who placed it there. We next attacked the lower one, and
met with the like success. 1 therefore descended the hill, and, wishing to go
into Union Hay, passed through the narrow channel among several large berg
pieces of ice aground there ; when, after getting a station up and fixed on the
northern shore of the ba\ , returned to the ship.

8'i. Talking over the subject of the cairns with the master, which I had built
up again, he observed that it might lie possible that half-way between the two

and examine

Uotucc«fi/u 1 agaai.

K«in«rki, &c.

SO I purposed going once more

there might be something found
in that particular spot.

83. I6th September. — 'Phis morning I took a larger party with me, and on
getting t« the caims began digging half-way iK-tween the two, and kept on over
a space of 10 8 feet, until we got down to the rock and ice, without detecting
the least sign of any memorial or remains of anything. 'Phc caims themselves
were again taken down, dug all round once more with the like success, when I
gave it up as a bad job ; built all tip again, and returned to the ship.

84. This was certainly an out-of-the-way place for leaving a record, but it
may possibly l)e the spot where Adam Beck, Sir John Hoss's interpreter, found
the nnle with a piece of tin in it, and which he lost. Where he lost it must be
on the shores of Union Bay, for as Sir John says in his evidence that he saw the
tin with his glass while standing on the north shores of Uoiou Bay, Beck thea

I IB

being not more than a qiiurtt-r of a mile tVoiii him. No from this circunistance
1 i]iiagim> that Hirk wuh coiniiifj nlonff the short's of the hay from the eastward,
and perhaps from these lainis.

Sfi. In ('ommander PliillipH'sevidenee, where he went to examine the spot, ho
•ays : " We ascended a lieight of seven, eiglit, or nine himdred feet, I think, of
" almost precipitous eHHs, o\erlookiiig tlie entrance to tlie bay in which, no doubt,
" the ' Erebus' and ' Terror' wintered ; examined carefully, but found nothing."
He says nothing ab(mt building the cairns up again.

86. Althougli the ascent to these cairns I visited' crv steep, yet I should
not call it a cliff. It overlooks the entrance to Erebus .d l>rror Bay certainly,
and the upper cairn is 7l<> tcct above the low water mark. They are more than
two miles from where the " Felix" must have In-en lying in Union Bay, and
about the same distance from the graves. 'Vhv (juestion then is, can this be the
hill on which Beck found the tin and pole, and did he build the two cairns ? At
all events, I shall sweep the whole of the nortliern shores of the two bays, and
endeavour to find the piece of metal.

87. On the 22d, Union Bay was full of ice, having been driven in with the
N.W. and northerly winds ; however, it looked all set fast for good, but in very
irregular masses ; notwithstanding which, I walked some distance on it. Welling-
ton Channel, too, seen from the top of Beechey Island, quite across to the
Western shores, and north as far as could be seen, was also closed.

88. The weather latelv has strongly indicated a final close to the season; for w»«th«r. ac.
with the thermometer falling, snow covering the ground, and dark and gloomy •
weather, keep us all anxiously looking for the ice making, that we might get our

winter housing over and everything snug. The month of September, too, was
drawing to a close, with a fair prospect of nothing to disturb the plea urable
anticipation of a comfortable winter. Still there is a certain anxiety which I
cannot entirely get rid off, for of late the south and S.E. winds have brought
into the bay some heavy masses of old ice, which was driven on us sometimes
with great force, which does not tend to dispel my unfavourable impressions of
this place as a winter (]uarters.

89. On the morning of the 25th, the wind was blowing in heavy squalls from
N.N.E,, when the ice inside of us, which of late appeared tx) be fast, but not
strong enough to bear, was breaking up and clearing out of the bay.

At noon it grew moderate, and the sky cleared ; yet the snow was drifting in
thick clouds off the high lands. Now outside, a Ime to where we were lying
across to the eastern shores of the bay well inside Cape Riley was open, as well
as the straits as far as the eye coidd reach ; and having lately meditated on the
probability of any casks, iicc. we might set afloat from this ever reaching Baffin's .See Prim«d Eneiomn.
Bay and being picked up, I decideil on trying it. One was therefore prepared ;
three documents printed on board tlie ship by a private press ; when at one
o'clock a boat was sent to the entrance of the bay with the cask and two bottles, Boitif. und c»ik wiih
each containing a paper, and they were all connnitted to the deep, with a good p™^'* •">»'«» *«•»•<•
fair wind, ebb tide, and clear sea to start with on their voyage. They were soon *'"'^"
but of sight, at all events. In the evening the wind was light, and beautifully
clear weather, with the stars shining brightly. The wind being N. W., was fair for
our small craft. The thermometer at midnight lower than we have yet had it,
standing at 14 + .

90. For the next two days pancake ice would form in the bay when calm or
the wind was light, but as usual, northerly winds would set it in motion and
soon break it up. Noon of the 27th all the eastern part of the bay, and well
out to sea was clear of ice ; the winds moderate from E.N.E. temperature of
both sea, and air the same, 30 x. At six in the evening the wind was from
E.S.E., and large (piantities of ice were seen outside, driving to the westward.
At midnight much of it came into the body, and would strike the ship very
heavily as it came in contact.

91. Earl v this morning the wind began to veer round to the S.E. occasionally asih Sepumb«r ism.
blowing fresh, and the ice increasing both in quantity and weight that was now

driving into the bay, making the old ship feel it as it came against her. How-
ever at ',) A.M. it moderated, and the ice was apparently stationary ; at 4 the
thermometer was 25, barometer 29-36, and the sea still at a high temperature,
the glass standing 30 x . At 8 the bay was completely covered with ice, also
out to seaward as far as the eye could reach, with heavy hummocky masses,
decidedly not of a very recent formation. Until 6 in the evening everything

ii'i

■

J:^

Im hmif uti in nw

liOQ.

Hmtj fit.

Gdt incrfwing.

Ship driven

Ship ukn groiiiiil.

AHerwardi inrMured
•nd found to be l,'<(Ki
fnU

iJUte of tide.

Ice ea«es off, end ihip
rights.

Depths of wate

: ,1
k 1 ;

t9th SeptemlMr

Contidcrationt.

116

was still, when on the wind hret-zinif up from S.K. by IC, !*ot it again in motion,
and piling up in great heaps around us, and so eontinuing until H p.m., when the
wind tallnin to a mo(KTate breeze, the iee once more In'oame stationary. The
weather at this tim«' iK'ing elear, a moderate breeze, and imrometer |)retty steady,
rising since midnight ot'tlie '27tli, I I'elt luider no apprehension, thinking under
such circumstances that no gale was brewing ; and judging from t'ormer
experience that all this ice would drive out of the bay again with the first
northerly wind, and with the thennometer standing so high lioth in air and sea.
How soon, thougli, was I deceived, for at 1 ()..'<( » it came on to l)low hard, a gale
in a n'.oment (H) from S.K. ; and notwithstanding tlie iee was jjucked up pretty
plentifully, and pieces from seven to eight feet thick passing, and crow(in)g on
njost ominously, the ship itide scry easily, and there app<'ared no very great
strain on the cabK". At I().l5 there came on such a (piicK succession of heavy
s(jualls, with lai-ger Ixxlies of ice passing so close on either side, that I really
Ix'gan to feel apprehensive for our safety ; the cable stretched tint like an iron
bar, the lighter ice lifting on it and parting, whilst tiie heavier stutV doHed in
alxmt the bows, adding greatly to the stram, so I expected soon to see it purl.
To veer I felt would not 1k> very prudent, as it would give the ice such
additional im]H-tus, that we could never laing up again; to let go another
anchor I considered to Ik- vtpially fruitless, for the chances were \ery much
against its finding the bottom, and as our ground tackle was good and the
bottom a stiff white clay or marl, our l)cst chance would be to hold on ;
particularlv as the bay was now full, the ice close up to all the shores, so that
Its drift might receive some check. However, at Kill. .'iOni. the gali- increased
so much that the H.R. was let go; but, a> I anticipated, tlieri' it lay on the
white and glistening surface (the moon was shining brightly) as if in mockery
of our efforts. We could do no more, all knew we |i;i(i an enemy to contend
with that no human efforts could check; we were iiido n powerless.

9-. The anchor was in se\eii fathoms, when at ll tiu' sl)i|) began to drive,
and soon shoaled to fbur-and-a-half fatlioms, with tlw ice in motion; but I
thought not quite so rapidly, although the wind had no* abated one jot, yet it
pressed liea\y on us, and we could do nothing to raise the Auyt, or avertii.g
whatever fate awaited us. All the men were on deck without any smnmonn,
calmly and silently watching the course of events, and I think all felt we were
in the hands of n merciful (Jod, who often U'tiore lias ixtendcd to us Mis pro-
tcctitm. At 11.20 that e\eiifful niomeiit arrived, the ship took the ground
astern, the ice immediately forcing her heid round to the ^f.l^., as if she had
l)een on a pivot under her heel, and ne; r" . over on her lieam ends ; wrenching
the rudder, which was choked, into spliiuers about the sheave hole, and l)roa<lside
to, or I'varly, on the top »)f a shoal patch ; and I should say alHiut a ijuarter of
a mile fhmi where we had been lying. This brought the wind oiithelR'am;
and the ice still nimiing, I fully expected to see it cither coming up over the
side or ibrcing its way through the bottom. It was a most anxious moment,
and with the gale now blowing <J from .S.K, thermometer standing at 2(i + , the
cold was much felt, as none of us in the. hurry ofcircumsiances were too well
clad, and obliged to hold on while in such a ])o>itioii.

9'?. 1 Ih. r)Oni. we now consider it nearly high water, and the tide I ex[x;ct
slacking, caused the iee to ease off a little and allowed the ship to rise, so that
about midnight she was nearly on an e\tn keel. The well was sounded directly
and found all right, the ice-tiuartermasters sounded round the ship, whilst the
men hove up the H.B. still lying alongside, and a taut strain on the S.IJ., well
out and broad on the beam, or to the southward. The gale had not abated,
still 9 in strength with heavy scpialls, and snow. The depth of water close to
the ship was as follows: — 13ft. Gin. on starlwiard bow, 11 feet on starlH)ard
gangway, and l.'U't. :iin. on starboard (puirter; II feet only on port Ikiw, 12 feet
on port gangway, and thi- same on the (piarter.

9f. After the anchors were secured, a (iiiantit_\ of pro\isi()ns was got up, and
placed all ready for handing into the boats in the event of our having to leave
the ship ; as from the appearance of the weather, it was certain the gale had not
yet done, and there was no knowing what might happen. .As the tide fell the
ship went over on her port broadsitU- to a liiel of 2').], degrees at low water; we
were therefore obliged to get life lines uj), and batten the decks to carry oo
our work.

95. .Such a position as this throughout the greatest part of the twenty-four

117

> conti lie for a Iciiig Arctic
'orwi-.nl to, II' vith^tiinding
r \ ; fl, r I ., fonHd'-ntlv
"ti iiiyttfll, vu'vfr luiiil If
itl>etb»- ble

Ut!l-\VC<4t ,4i

iiiit we hIi

lllil'tll ov

H«>(m,*»-

I'li'r
1 to

hours, with a low temperature, and not i^nllktl^

winter, was certainly no pleasant pros]M'ct !o loot

which the men worked with a good will und aim

hoping, ill which Iio|H' I cannot nay I was fh c

might Ik' to accomplish with our small compleim

to get the ship otl". None doubted hut thnt i

certainly to Ik- exix-cted, would blow all this ice out of the bay. md |

help us, but certiiiii to leave open wafer, and should flu- \ouiig iee imike

we could heave ofl", that we could easih uianagv'. l-lveiy preparafiiH

therefore l)egun by getting the more weighty |)rovisions up for landing'

lighten the ship would be aetuiilly necessary, for the draff of wafer when aHoaf

was nth 9in-, ,i»!*t Hfleen inches more than the de('|)est wafer we have yet found

under the ship; and tu the fides are now taking off, if will only be at the next

pprings that we can ho|K' to move her.

iK). All were now busy clearing the holds and getting provisions on deck for »"•> ^v*-
landing, when we see clearly the road, for there was so much snow falling, and
driving with the heavy continued sipialls, that it was not until nine o'clock, in a
lull, that an attempt could l)c made, ( )ne thing in our favour was, that the ice was
stationary, and we were a little more (oidy) than a thousand feet from the
shore; a party was therefore sent to explore, but returned with such a dis-
couraging report, that I consi<lered it too dangerous to risk either the men or
loHH of stores, to attempt it ; for the ice in so many places was separated by
wide fissures, partially tilled in with sludge, and covered with drift snow, to
appearance compact, deceiving some to their cost — together with a very
hummocky road: it was deferred to a more fitting opportunity. However, tins
did not prevent our sounding, and finding the deepest water ahead, and enough
within a dozen feet of the stern, to float her at high wafer : preparations were
begun for heaving oft", as well as getting provisions out of the hohls for landing;
consecpiently all hands were fully employed. At II the weather cleared a
little, and we saw lying in the entrance of the bay a large iceberg, besides
several smaller ones, which I doubt not ha\ e greatly aided in pressing the ice in.

97. At noon the wind was south, H in strength, with the thermometer 2() in
the air, 29 in the water. The chain pumps had been rigged, and directly the
ship righted again, tried ; but happily she had not made a single drop of water.
'I'he main deck ports were all burred and caulked in, and e\ervthingwcll secured
lor any contingencies. A l.!.") it was high water, and sounding round the ship
we got it ditlerent from what we hud last night. It is very probable, then, the
ice might have caused the mistake. Now we get 12 ieet on the starboard
how, l.'i feet on port bow, 12.() on starboard gangway, and 12.:? on port gang-
way. As the ice now about the bow was loose and sliidgery, we hove a strain
on the starboard cable, but it had noeflect on the ship, the anchor coming home
as she fell with the tide. At 2 the ice in the bay, about a quarter of a mile to
the eastward, was seen driving to the southward, forming a narrow lane or pool
of open water. This could only be caused by the current or tide coming
through the channel between Bcechey Island and the main, for the wind was
still blowing hard from .S.S.E. (8), however at I it moderated to 7- At G.'U)
it was low water, and the least depth we got was (5 feet on the port bow, (iff. 9in.
on port gangway, /ft. (iin. on quarter, Hft. (Jin. starboard (piarter, (Itt. 9in. starboard
bow, and 8 feet on gangway. At 10 the gale was up again to f), with heavy
snow ; happily the ice was stationarv, when, at midnight, it fcdl once more.

98. The gale broke very early this morning, and at I o'clock, it being the J^"^'"'^' *'"' *'''•
highest water, 12 feet G inches the depth, we hacl another heave on the larboard, Uaie'imaki.

but without any success. At 2 the strength of the wind was 4, still from S.S.E.,

when, at daylight, the opening between the ice appeared close, at least the

fissures filled in with sludge and drift snow, so hard frozen as to bear ; and,

knowing that we could do nothing towards moving the ship until lightened, a

party was sent to explore the route; whose rejjort being somewhat unfavourable,

we had the suspicious-looking spots bridged over with plank, and we commenced i-'ni'mg siotm, a«

landing stores, &c.

99. The dogs now came into play, and real good service they done us, par- Oogi »tr7 umHiL
ticularly those Mr. Kennedy, of the " Prince Albert," left, for they were not.

only well trained, but had got their education from men whose method of
managing was known to the men I had with me in our long residence in the
Hudson's Bay territory. What we should have done without them, I hardly

1'.3

iii

I' 4i

11^

know; Mid I am rontideiH that I am n«»t nprakiiig out of hntituiH when I imt
that that fniin of doijn (tour) wk.' nii|)«'ri<)r to rjx iiu-n in thi« piirti<-iilar ; »n»l
with the iidililioii nt tlic in-xl one ot the DImii dogN, liavi' ^<iiit> > otiitottably
ilon^ with tlic same wriftlit that I have Mren cif^ht iiirn latHiuring at. I t'crl

mull

\ III

It loiK hoM to ti-t'd thciii, lor now \m- ui-t ticitluT hirdM, Ht-al, iior hc*ar. I

SMKmliMurtNii.l.d.

Mmm likni to ranwdjr

it.

woiilii dtroiink riroimmiid in luturf <x|H'dition« that a (juaiitity of jxrravel
iliowid i)t> liriHiglit Iroiii Kiigiaiid lor thrir use; and tuclvi- do^!* wouhl not he
too nmn\ .
i««i. |(H). On thit service we wen* conNtnntly einplove<l until the atlemoon of the

Hth, with thf <xtTi)tion of the intrrveninf' Niindav, and one day that it blew mo
hard, and thick falling rtnow dnvih^ ito heavily, that we could not nee our road;
lK!side!4 running the ri^k ot hmiiig !«onie of our Ntoiex. Aller all, we had only
taken out of the ithip, including proviition!*, rttores, Hrewood, &e., thiity-tive tona,
for the roiid \mis ho uhoniinahiv had, iind the men *'>-eijuentlv getting in, that I
was often on the jHiint of ninnlng th<' riwk of leaving tnem alongside ; however,
it was fortunately eticeted without Iohh or injury, and a document letl with
them ; and. considering it tpiite sutiieient, pailicularly as there wan vet a pro-
bability ot l)eing driven out, we In-gan on other matters re(|uiring imniecUate
1 Kmp eonditwii uf tilt' attention. The first was the damp state of the ship, tor th«' i»ort fiide, right fore
""* aii<l aft, was covered with ice; an«l the men were complaining of ita tK>ing no

cold, that they could not sleen tluring the time they hiid for rest, in fact that
nide ol' the deck was barely habitable, so great was the damp. The Sylvester
stove hail la-en in ilaily use lately, but from the inclination t)f the shij> to port,
no warm air wouhl pass through the tuln-s to that side, consecpu-ntly th*
starboard side got it all, showing a difl'erence at least of thirty-six <legrcea on
either witle of the sinp, sometimes more, a tropical climate on one, and an I'rrtir
on the other. Dampness, 1 knew, would Ih' occasioned, but still, not to such
an extent, or so s(M)n ; but directly its commencement was detected, which was
on the Hth. I directed the master to set the armourer to work as soon as he
could hi' spared from assisting in landing the stons, and place the small stoves
in such a jK)sition that the heat from them might counteract, in a great measure,
the ill effects likely to ensue from this icy fbnnation.

101. It was not until tlu; 15th that this iiecessarN work could 1m- accomplished,
and carricfl out in the following manner in three of Nott's patent stoves: one
vas placed in the fore cabin (now gun room), another Ix-fore the range of cabins
on main deck (jM)rt side) and abreast of main hatchway, and the third abaft,
the sick bay bulkhead, all connected In funnels leading the whole length of the
port side of the nuiiii deck, and ilbowmg off to a small hatchway, a little abaiV
the mainmast, and up through the awning. A day or two after, on v.Llking
round the ship tor the express pur|M)se of examining into the ditlerence of the
imnro..mfni in Ih. condition, accompaiiicd by the master and thi' surgeon, we found it so grcutlj
•ondi- -nof.hii.. ' improved, that the men were again able to (Hvupy tliat side.
Purch.i« ,o,e, Ac. '*'*'^- ''"'"" piTcliases wcie all got re.idy and rove on the I Ith. The first was

the stream ; the anchor was carried out ahead and buried in the ice, therefore
was s(H)n frozen in, alniut twice the ship's length to N.K. by E. (true); the cable
was brought into the starlM)ard iM)wer hawsehole, to the windlass, with the
double purchase on. The remainder of the stream chain was pas.sed round the
ship for a necklace, and to it at the stem a Kninch double block and seized.
About ten feet within the stream anchor a lar^e toggle was placed in the ice
witli a chain strap round it, to which was attached two 17-inch single blocks,
and one of our own toj) blocks. A 1-ineh hawser (whole line) was r<ne, the
standing part to the necklace, and the fall led .'ii through the port hawsehole,
thence att to the capstan, 'ihe blocks we got from the " M'l.eilan" whaler;
little thinkintt at tlii' time we .-.hould so soon have U) make use of them. The
lower yiir(l> and topmasts were housed to-(la\.

lO.S. I icit VI IV anxious to l'o aJKait over the ice to examine into its state, and
perhaps be better able to form an opinion on the position we were in. and the likely
chances of getting otl" this winter. This 1 could not effect until the :Utth of
Se|)tciiilier. and then only by a view from the shori', the ice was in so many
places separated by wide fissures, and occasionally blowing in heavv gusts.
Accompanied by the master. I got on shore abreast the ship, and walked along
thi- eastern shores of Heechey Island, to the northern part of the bay ; and,
although we could not see much of its outer t¥)un<iary, had a good view well
across to the eastern shores, and saw quite sufficient to convince us, that, how-

over bad uur prvwiit poiiitioii wum, it iiiiKht hHvc hi'ct) tmicli worMo. 'I'ht- liay,
with the excrption of that one Mpot oi' (i|H-n WHtir Irlt clfnr l)\ the k-t- driving
uut veMtcrdtty, iiuw ulout otii- mile in length, iintl (frtttinly not niori- than three
hunuri'd (ievt in bn-uiith, i-^ covcivil ovi i with old liioKc n up hiiu \ immNi's, iind
ft>i^'«ti up int^) hunim<M'k-. trimi ten to twelve teet in height, wiiii (Mciisionully
■iinarle InTg pieees, at leii><t twenty lirt idxtve the siirfme. I ttit iuo-.t tliunkf'ul
fur having U-en HO clone in before driving, for 1 luneontiilent had we Iteen only half
u cable further to the eastward, we shoidd have had this heavy ice to contend
with, driven iMnmer, and now in all probability lying a helpless wreck ainongHt
it. It would have IxH-n iiniM)ssible to have reNiNte<i its pressure ; and it would
cither have gone over u^ i r through us, utter bringing up at the head of the bay,
whoHC whole northern shori' exhibitu it lying heap upon heap, thrown upon euch
other in inextricable coiilusion. Closi- along tlu' eastern siiore of Ikechcy
iHJand, in the h(>nd ioriu< d by the long, low, and narrow eastern point, is a good
extent of Min(M)th floe, where we might |>ossii)ly have lain snug; but the difticidty
would theti have l>eeu in ;{etting (mt again, against which I had iM-en so<-antionea.
BeHidt'H, I am not certain of there iK'ing, even there, sufticient depth of water ; and
if my memory iwTveHine riglit, alM)ut that HjK)t the ice was very hununocky when
we came into the bay. Proceeding on to the ridge, and looking into Union
Bay, to my aNtoiiiHhment found it all clear of ice, wlien it was only a few days
ago that I wait valking on it.

104. ( )n the .5th of ( >ctol)er I walked to the sunnnit, and over the top of
Beechey Island. From the N.W.purt 1 saw the Wellington (.'hannel was closed
up, excepting a few lanes of water here and there; the ice was very huinmocky
indee<l. The land to the westward, ("ornwallis Island, was distinctly visible
but thickly covered with snow. l!iii(m Iky was covered with a thick coat of
new made ice, inside n line from Cujh; Spencer, to a short distance west of the
" ResoluteV cairn on Heechey Island. From the southern part of the island we
got u good view of Burrow Straits, exhibiting a considerable portion of it quite
open ; in fact, all the ice was driving ; a continuation of the prcKtnt wind, N.W.,
it will soon be cleur ; somewhat stronger, it would soon drive out of the buy.
The lane of ojien water to the eastward of us, which opened out some few days
ago, extended like a river ipiite to the edge of the ice, joining the open water in
the 8»,t:'it.

10.5. On the 6th the wind was still light from north and N.W., and the ice at
the mouth of the bay appeared to Ik- easing ort' ; but young ice was making in
the lane of open water, and every other spot inside the mouth of the buy.

10(i. The first heave we got on the purchases was on the noon of the
13th. The tides had been gradually getting up, and we had l)cen pre-
paring lately and looking anxiously for the highest, which we now found
m general was in the afternoon of the second day after tlu change. On
the i;ith, at luxm, it was high water, the greatest depth being thirteen feet, mh Ociob«r.
the purchases then were only hove a taut strain, and we continued blowing the sn uut th« purchMM.
ice up and clearing it away from about the bows as fast as possible ; but it was
along and tedious process, for it froze fast, nearly as ipiick as we loosened it;
so much sludge remaining adding greatly to the rapidity of the young ice
forming, and all gluing together again. The thermometer, too, for the last two
or three days hud ranged between 7+ imd 6. However, if we could only move
the ship three or four feet ahead with our first cflf'orts, I should consider our
getting off certain before the winter finally set in, and by the end of this
month ; if we cannot do it then, we shall certainly Ik- fixed for the season.

107. This afternoon the stream chain U'ing taut, suddenly broke. On
examining into the defect, found one of the links not well welded, but I think
the cold causing contraction was the principal agent.

108. On the morning of the 1 1th, at twenty minutes after midnigl.-t, the tide »tivton»h«purcU»t.
was higher than we have yet had it ; so the people being all ready, and charges

placed, we hove taut, and blew up, completely shatteriiig and loosening the ice
about the bows, through which we might have hove the vessel for at least eijrht
feet on end, but there was not water enough to lift her, or ease our efforts. On
its iK'giiming to fall, sent tlie men to their beds again. On the afternoon of thii.
same day there was a higher tide, which we had expected, — prepared for, were
ready, and made every effort, but it was equally fruitless, — we could not move
the ship, notwithstanding there was more water than we had betbre. the
following were the several depths : fourteen feet eight inches on each bow,

P 4

%PM

tm'MJm*'

Diflieulty in keeping
•pen wtter.

Pl»ni fjr furtlier tier
lion.

ThieknM* of ice.

All open water in Bar

formed.

U«T]r ivt.

130

thirteen i'cet eight inches on starboard gangway, thirteen feet two inches on port
gangway, and thirteen feet ten inches by sternposts ; tiie least water, therefore,
amidships.

109. Tiie tides were now taking oft', and rinding from the low temperature so
much ditliculty in keeping open water, I very nnieii fear we shall not get off" till
the spring of next year; but as 1 could not think of yet giving up, or as long
as we could work on the ice, I (k'tcrniiiicd on trying what we couhl do with the
saws and parbuckles, in an attempt to clear out a dock ; although I knew it
would freeze over again, yet we might get clear of this heavy ice lying directly
in our way, measuring from scvcm to eight feet in thickness ; and we could more
easily break t)Ut the tiiiii ice, and keep the water clear, when the next high tide
drew on, which was on the 9tl). Should our eftbrtstheu be ineffectual, we must
give it up for the season.

1 It). Some of the rioe-pieces about the ship were very hcavv, one on the p)rt
quarter, and another astern, measured rifteen and twenty feet m tliickneas. The
one on the (juarter is \cry dose to, and I think prevented our driving further
on the shoal.

ill. On the 12th of October every spot of ojx-n water in the bay was hard
frozen over, and walking on the ice towards the eastern shores, 1 came upon that
portion seen ojxn from the ship and top of nccchey Island, extending from the
The^imooii! Hw. boir northern shores into Harrow Straits, Just like a river; it was now a hard and
sohd floe, formed of new nuidc ice, with a suri'ace flat and even, and nearly a
uniform breadth tjuite out to sea, showing distinctly the line of tides through
the channe! lu tween Kecchev Island and the main, from Wellington Strait. On
either side of this smootli floe the ice was piled up in heavy and irregular
masses; and contimiing the walk on towards the strait, found connnencing from
abreast the rirst point of the island N.K. of Northuml)erlaiul House, from one-
half to a cable's length off, and out to seaward thrown togetiier such an accu-
mulation of heavy iKig-pieces and lunninocks, formed by the piling of the
crushed ice, from twenty to fifty Icet abose the surface level, that would have
Ix'cn certain destruction to any tiling amongst it. 'rremendous indeed nuist have
Ikh'U the pressure all along and close home to the whole southern shores of the
island; it lo«)ks as if thrown into endless confusion.

1 12. Nearly at the extrenu' part of the smooth fioe, fully three miles from the
head of the bay, lies nuicli fiat ice broken up into snuiU and neatly sham>d slabs,
as if ready prepared to take their places in the construction of one of those fairy
palaces we read of in llu' .Arabian Nights, mixi'd u]) and lying about among a
quantity of small stuff, like the chippiiigs and refuse in a stonemason's yard; all
caused by the mighty crush.

11.'}. I'roni where these heavy masses comnienced was only a little initside of
where we (lro\e from ; and if we had only taken a l)erth in a position suggested
as being (piite a safe (me — for instance, two or three ship's lengths inside the line
from C'api- Uilcy to Reechey Head — the unfortunate "North Star" would have
now been under some of those heavy nnisses on the S.K. shores of the island.
The ice inside of where we now are, and at other parts of the bay, althougii
heavy enough to ruin a ship, is nothing compared to what it is here; and however
unpleasant our present jiosition is, and nniy be throughout the winter, we have
much cause to Ik- thankful. We came here with high hoix's, never exjK-cting
such an occurrence likels to bifldl us, considering the chief thing to guard
against was gi tting too far iti ; and all that we should have to do alter the ice
made, would be to cut up to our anchor and pick it up. Kx|X'rience truly is
dearly bought.

111. It is very possible that the missing \oyagers nniy ha\e met with a like
misha]), probably, too, r)f more serious coiisecpience. At all events, it is u
subject of \<ry gra\i' conjecture ; and I have mine, which will appear bye-
and-by.

ll.'). It was on the 14tli that we commenced with the saws; and although
continuing steadily at the work, our etforts were so contiimally foiled in the
attempt to open a sj)ace of water and keep it so, that howi'ver reluctant I might
•*'*'■"''.'.'" ■"''""« Ix" to desist, the time was not liu' olf when there would 1h- no choice. The
thermometer keeping at a low temperature, work, in conseciuence of the rapid
frccziiig, bad to lie fre(|uent!y gune over again. Doubts, too. were intruding, of
whether our strength at such a time was sufficient ; for a crew of forty-one men,
including officers, is indeed a very small coniplcment for such a heavy ship (550

CoDJeeturet.

Coumence Mving.

upen warer-

12i

tons) at the licst of times in these regions ; but when placed in such a position slow opcmiion.
as wc now unfortunately are, the want of strength is sadly lelt ; although I feel
confident that three times the luinihcr would find it a hard job, and constantly
at it, to clear a dock out, and keep it open, to have us off and into it by the
next tide, the 29tii.

116. We first began sawing in the morning close under the bows; and on the
same evening had not cut and jiarbuckled out more than would cover an area of
twelve feet by ten, when wc came upon such a heavy mass of old floe, thirty
feet by forty over, and seven and eight feet in thickness, and grounding at low
water, that the saws would make but little impression on it. Finding such the
case, and that the ice outside in the same line was very much thinner, the triangles
were removed ; and, notwithstanding more progress was made, the water froze
nearly as fast as it was opened, greatly accelerated by the sludge and small stufT",
which could never be efifectually cleared out, the attempt occupying more time
than the sawing.

117. However, to make one more effort for moving the ship I placed all the Another tfloit.
strength in another part, where, could we clear the ice out, the probability of
starting her was very great in our fa\()ur. Once eflected, however small, wc

might possibly heave her at the required time into the aforementioned spot,
which the heavy floe-pieces prevented our accomplishing in a direct line.

118. This new place was on the starboard side of the ship, where the ice was of a '" "''»' poMiion.
uniform thickness although heavy ; but from the very circumstance of its being

broken and open close to the ship, caused by her rising and falhngwith the tide,
the work would not be so lieavy ; the S.B. anchor was also in a very good
position. We therefore commenced on the 1 8th close aft on the starhourd side,
about ten feet from the ship, cutting in a line so as to open a space to pass
close on the starboard side of the large floe-piece ; then, by keeping a little to
port, and once and a half more her length to the eastward, the place would be
gained, making the whole distance to be accomplished three tunes the whole
length of the ship. ( Sec diagram.)

,A^TK\lt

Diagrmn*

The dotted line, first dock ; n, heavy floe piece. The dark line, the second ULfniuc t > i)i-g
cuts, oidy partially eflected; W, purchase blocks and stream anchor; B,
position of S.I{. anchor; 1)1), toggles for mast-head tackles.

119- Although the ditlercnce in depth of water in the new cut for about rnortMinsiuccssft
twelve feet broadside ofl" was but slight, still it was the great object to get
clear of the heavy floe-piece; we tliereforc set-to with a will, and hihoured
incessantly until tlie ^'Jth (the day of the highest tide); and having only got a
little before the t)ow, with the space wc had already opened frozen o\er solid,
and nearly as thick as when we began, with loose and large pieces amongst it
that had been forced from under the main ice by the tide, was sufficient proof of
the inutility of making any further attempts towards getting the ship afloat this
season. I therefore gave in, feeling it more iniperati\e on me to do so, as the
work in such weather was beginning to tell on th.e men; their feet weie freipieiitly

ttinii wet ; and there not beintr sufficient time, from the iieriod of lea\ ing off

Ri'

work to conuuencing again the next (hy, to dry their single pair of cloth liools,
I ordered the second pair to l)e issued ; although none complained, it could bo
plainlv seen that many were looking fagged and jaded. The saws were laid

I !

Tlioii:,'lil^ abjiit the
pi sitiun.

122

Dsidc, and our st)le iittcntioii was directed to endeavour to keep the ship on on
even keel ; for tliis constant rising and falling with the tide, as she hitherto has
been doing, would tiooii make licr (juite uninhabitable ; tor, notwithstandinj^ the
heat from the small stoves had in the first instance ameliorated the condition, it
was now, as the season advanced, found to be yetting as bad as ever. Tlie
winter housing we had now all over, having worked at it with four men ut the
same time they were sawing outside.

1*20. To keep the ship on an even keel, shoring naturally first occurred to inc,
but a moment's rellection told me at once that it would not do here; for, with
the ice rising and falling, they would soon be displaced, and down wouhl come
the ship, with every probability of never rising again. It then came to my
recollection the scores of times, when employed under Captain (now Admiral)
Owen in the surve}' of the Bay of Fundy, I had, in the tenders, laid high and
dry alongsides of wharves in docks, iVc, without doing just more than give a
heel in ; the idea struck me that, could such a thing be built here, it would
answer to keep the ship up. One diH'erence was, that we were hu-ge, they were
small ; however, I was determined on trying it, for to lie with a heavy list for
eight mouths at the least would never dc^, and the greatest dithculty I felt would
be getting a solid foundation to build on.
supsfor bciicring it. 121. To ofTect all tliis, I first purposed filling the water casks, and placing
them a certain distance, say twenty feet from the j)ort side of the ship, and when
the contents froze as well as themselves to the ice (by means of poured water),
build upon the intervening spjicc until such a weight was accumulated that no
tides would float the mass, and finally a wall, against which the ship might lay
without the fear of her weight breakuig it down, even if assisted by stormy
winds.

122. This work was carried on at the same time as the sawing; every piece of
ice taken out was broken up and thrown in on the port side of the ship, nuieh
of which fell under the bilge, but was gradually growing up. For the first tide
or two, her weight crushed all down, but so slowly that I apprehend no damage
has been sustained ; when, being about to get the casks out, found we were gain-
ing, and having worked to sucli good purpose, that on the evening of the second
day, at low water she was held up two degrees from the extreme heel - 2.')^
degrees), consecpiently I did not consider it necessary now to use the casks.

12.'?. In another way, too, we appeared to have derived benefit from the piling,
for by filling the vacant space left by the ship, the ice had acted as a wedge,
and somewhat forced her to starboard, for the soundings there were more regular,
and a trifle deeper. This was indeed good news, and we went to work with
renewed vigoiu', when finally we got her up to oidy /ij degrees of heel by Saturday,
the ;i()th OctolH'r. This I considered (piite up enough, and t(H)k no further steps
to lessen it ; but a strong breeze coming on the same d.iy gave the wall a good
trial. It yielded a little, for she went o\er to \)!, degrees; the piling in consequence
was renewed for a time, wher the wind again falling, the ship came back to the
71 degrees.

121. I now h)oke(l up)n the outside work as completed, the ship safe, and
certainly in as snug a position as we could possiiily expect imder existing circum-
stances ; her condition, too, insi'k' was imprciving. All gear was therefore unro\e
(mast head tackles, which had i)ei'n got up in hopes they might possibly lui|) to
keep her up, but were never used with any strain), and we were congratulating
ourselves on the completion of a most toilsome joi), for this season at any rate.

125. We had been rathi'r prematiu'e in our felicitations, for at low water on
the n; )rning of the Sth of Xovcmber, slie was only heeling ."i.|, di'grees.
Now, a> nothing had been going on lately, nor had there l)een any northerly
winds of sutlieient strength to mfiuence the position in any way, I could
only conclude that it wa> caused by the rapid formation of the ice on the }M)rt
side ; and ha\ ing no bank on the stariniard side, we might Ite forced over before
\\c' were aware of it, with no Iielping ourselves. Thi' men were therefore set to
work once more, and to build a wall of ice on the starboard side.

12G. This employed us pretty constantl}' until the afternoon of the third of
December, the only interruption liiing caused In the gales and when imshipping
the rudder. K\ in with tin wind i)lowing moderately (with the thermometer at
so low a teiuperalme) it would drive us on board

i ■-■ / .
the Uh of No\emi)er from .S. by E. ("), and increasing to (10), continuing
thioi.ghout for eiglit-and-foi1y hours, accouij)anied with such heavy gusts that

Su.'cess altciul-i us.

Outsi'i^' uork ilof.;

m n

Novculber. IN,".!'.

^ '

iVumatiirr. - liliircd to

t^o to work again.

il!

: 1 •

f'.i'iipUd- Iht' oijtsitii

work.

1 1 ..:.. _ .1 ; I .. 1 1 ., it- : .,/•

1 lie llLa\l'.>L gate UllJIllg llll^ lULIt'l NMIIN t.'l>llllllt.'lII.'L'U Oil IIIC L'N (.'Illllg Ut

123

I rcfilly apprehended serious conse(iucnccs, with the high tides coming on too.
Whiit they would be it was iinpossihle to say ; all we knew was, that we could
not help ourselves. Happily, however, the wall on the port side stood firm, and
when the gn' moderated we went to work again. This is now the second trial
we have had it' the stability of our work.

l"iH. On the I'ith of November we got close by the stern post of a depth of neepcst water
I'M't. loin., which is the most water we have yet had, and one inch more than
phe drew when we left Chatham for Deptford to take in the provisions. So even if
we could possibly have got open water, 1 do not think we could have hove off
witiiout lightening more.

12(). During the tides in the middle of November, the ice about the stem '"'■ "» '^''' >■"'"•''»■
and rudder worked so much that, notwithstanding the carpenter's representation
against cutting it otF where sprung or shattered, I determined to have it done,
for it was the only way in which we could imship it ; and one morning, finding
that it had l)een raised a couple of inches in the gudgeons, preparations were
forthwith commenced by cleanng away the ice about it; we then cut through umWii ihc rmiiitr.
the shattered part, and, not without much trouble, finally got it up on the ice.
It certainly was a relief to me, for I no more either felt or heard that heavy
grinding and surging that had for two days been going on about the stern.

130. It may be asked, why was not the rudder unsliipped before. A sufiicient
reason is given, I think, at paragraph 73 ; and to be driven on shore as we were
was ne\-er contemplated, when a depth of water sufficient was not to be had.
Nevertheless, it was tried on tlic 28th of October, but unsuccessfully ; and
raliier than cut it otf, from the carpenter saying that it would add greatly to the
time recjuisite to repair it, I let it remain ; but when it began to work so, and if
allowed to continue, cause injury, I had no alternative. As it was, it was a
heaw job, what with clearing away the ice ; and only the second day coidd we
get the second part up and placed on the ice astern. It most certainly was a
good job accomplished, for such an immense body must lighten the ship's draft
soinewiiat, particularly from the extreme point, and where we want depth.

1.31. What could induce those who Inult it to place such an immense sheave Binicn«ionscriiie
in it I cannot imamne: if strenii;th was required (which appears to have been 'i,",'''f ,•""., ,„„v .■

. P . 1 1 • /• • 1 1 ■ " '""'^ kiigtli 'I'M- 4in.

the eonsuieration) that rendered it nugatory, tor it was tlierc that it went when lUaiiioiuxk loit.

the sliip took the ground. It takes no small hole for a metal sheave of seventeen "!""',',"■' "' '''"^^■""''

inches in diameter and three and a quarter inches thick. A small hole large iiu.kiasA (.r sicvucs,

enoiiiih to take the pennant is all that is retiuired, for it is onlv wanted to lift ul"'\. , , ,

11 .1 111111 11 i^ii t fi'^nt ol sluavf anu

the ; udder out of the gudgeons, the head and heel tackles then do tiie work, pin, ^aii.*.
and ]irecious heavy work it was for us, for (juite as much strength, and nearly
as niMch time was taken up in unshipping it and getting it across our stern, as
in c. It ting a small dock.

\:V2. 'i'hiis have we entered on another month, and the last one of 1H52. Our
work, I dare say, might have been sooner accomplished but for the many intcr-
riiplions by wind. At those times it was so bitter cold that no ■ c could stand
it, which, with the sliortness of daylight hours (having lost the an entirely cm
the I Ithof November), was not in fa\()ur of the speedy accomplishment of such
work as it was; for having broken up all the hiininiocks close about us, we had
to make a wider circuit for material for building tiie walls about the ship.
However, the third day of this month saw it completed, and so eflfcctually, by
takiiig advantage of the tide, that a complete dock is Ibrined. It has been a
time of great anxiety, and when she at first crushed the wall on the port side
down >() completely, I really began to doubt of our being able to accomplish it
cH'eetually ; but now it is such sati>.factioii to think that after the many trials
the structure has had l)y lieavy breezes, it has stood up bra\el\ , we may hope
for a degree of (|uietness and fri'edom for a spell from anxiety.

133. As tlie last of the November tides drew on, she Iieeled to starboard (me
degree, remaining in tliat position so long in sjvte of tlie increast- ol' water under
her, that I was getting apprehensive as to \\\v eau<e ; but a strong soutii-easter
coining on about the full of tiie moon (2(itli), lielped lier up, and before the tide
had done, she got back to the old position of half a degree to port.

1,31. The interior condition of the ship was now In (piite as good a state as
we could ex|H'ct from oiii' ]iosition, but oi'i'asionally the Sylvester would not aet
on the starboard side, and it beeanie rather cold. The heat would go along in
tiie joliii towards the shlp'^• side for ulioUi ihiVi- hot, alKi liiori stop, liiiiii >oriiO-
tinies in the evening it would make an effort, and get up the pipes along the

Dfcvml'LT 1 8 j2.

i-ii

124

Intcriur orrangcimi-.t*.

WiiuK diiriiij; ih.-
quarter.

A;ilm til an.i InnU 'f. n
aiiii <.ii.i;Iit.

'I'cmpc'r.ituii ■, Ai-

!t.7;!.

side lor a short time. We puzzled our brains as to tlie cause, but could not
remedy it tor some time; at last I tliougiit it possible tluit some of the hot-air
tubing was damaged, which, without tearing down the easing, could not be
ascertained. At length the bulk-liead was taken down, the casing opened, and
sure enough there was a delect in the tube, tor at one of the joints it was so
open thi't all the heat escaped into the coal-bunkers. This must have been
done when the ship fell over on first taking ; however, it was soon put to rights,
and all went on fairly again.

i:}."). On tlie main deck (our berth deck) a few alterations have been made,
which have most decidedly proved verv beneficial. In the bows of the ship
evervthing was thickly coated over with ice, and at first efforts were made to
shaw it out with the hanging stoves, but it kept the place in such a constant
state >f humidity that it was given up, and every week the accumulated stuff
scraped off and passed outside. In fact, the sick bay, and that part of the
ship forward of a line right across abaft the foremost port, was a complete ice-
house. This was sluit out entirely from the men by the erection of a bulk-head
across tiie deck, as tar alt as the after part of the galley-range; so that only the
fires were seen from abaft. The bins amidships were taken down, and their
after bulk-head removed, and placed close to the i'orecomings of the main hatch-
way, thus bringing to view all the smoke-funnel of the Sylvester, which ran
along under the upper deck to the fore part of' what was the fore hatchway, when
it pa>sed up through the deck. 15y this we lost none of the heat from the
smoke funnel, where it was reiiuired. The bulk-heads of these bins extended
from deck to deck.

i:\G. livery superfluous article was banished to the lower deck, where each
man was allotted pegs on which to hang his clothes, boots, hats, \c., which he
could not put into his chest ; therefore, tlie main deck was free of everything
likely to injure health ; plenty of room to walk about, (when exercise could not
be taken on deck or outside,) and a free circulation of fresh air. In fact, no ship
could be better adapted for w intering in these regions than the " North Star," which
I think the state of health of the crew up to this time will fully prove, notwith-
standing the trying and hea\y work they have had to go through. Plenty of
air, plenty of room to move about in, and keep the principal deck clear, clean,
and comfortable, are great objects to be attained. Unfortunately she is not so
gt)od for navigating these seas, although as handy a ship under canvas and in
narrow waters as any 1 iia\o ever been in ; but when you come to tracking, it is
indeed laborious work, with so few hands and her heavy draft. I would then
prefer the small crat't. Of both classes we may now fairly speak from downright
experience, and with the larger more to come yet ; when I think about it I
sometimes fear wc shall liardly a(com])lish what we have yet before us.

i;i7- 1 he winds bctweinthe ".iijlh of Decemlar ha\e been between K.S.1'>. and
S.S.K. sometime.- blow iiig veiytri>ii; but throiigluiut the whole month from
south round by ea>t to wc-t, they iiave been pretty fairly distributed. The
preceding montiis, first, Nmember, from S. to .S.K., has been the prevailing
ijuartcr, the strongot from S.S.K. >s, I'lom X.W., a day and a half only, and
but light. October, N.W". winds for tlic greatest number of days, strength never
exceeding 15. The S.S.M. wind was again the strongi'st, but not of long dura-
tion ; M was the i'lrce, and lasted only lialf a day. Tiie breeze commenced at
S.K. lIowcNcr, it was not a windy monlli. September, the disastrous month, —
N.W. we had tlie greatest nuinbcr of days ; but the strongest S.K. and S.S.K.
Winds from (luarler between west and south, we got but rarely; however, what
we do gi't I think aic local, influenced by the high lands about us.

i;5S. Thf first foxes were seen on the 2(!th of October, and one was caught
that niglit ; altogether u|> to the end of the year, twenty-three have been taken in
trajis, eighteen of which weie males. They were all white with one exce])tion, a
blue fox. Of birds since the ice came in, ptarmigan only have been seen, and
eight shot by the otlieers. 15y-t he-bye one was killed bv one of the dogs.
Theri' is about the i>laii(i, one solitary raven, seen occasionally.

13!). The mean teiniierature for Sepltniber was +:2H.H; maximum 3!..');
miniiuuin I1+. October, mean 13.1 f ; inaxiimmi 29+ ; minimum i)..'). No-
vember, mean ."5.12 i , niaximiun lOt ; minimum 21. December, mean 23.7,
maxinuim s'-f ; minimum 3().

! t(L ( 'Itv!**! !n;is i!;!\' o;!sKi'(l ov'.'!* Willi iis (iiiiel !\' and comfortahi** and the new

p;i;-se(l

year w as ushered in with a inusiciU greeting ; the men parading about the decks,

125

cxclmnginK the usual compliments. Although we have had neither pla)-s nor
nias(iueni(ies to enliven thedull monotony ol'an Arctic winter.yet every oneappcars
hai)py and comt'ortahle, and getting on very well together. We certainly have
bad enougli to do and think of; ditlerent indeed from the usual employments in
winter of former nortiiern voyages. 'J'h.ink (Jod, by His l)lessing, up to the end ciooii iieaith.
of this month, umisuid good healtl , has been our share.

141. 'I \) the end of the montli there appears to have been no more in toe ice '«■
Eutlicient to effect the ship's position; more than that, I think she is raised up

a little ai)iift, by the ice forming uufjer her counter. At a distance often feet

from tile bows, and all round, the ice is prosed up very nmcii, and she lays as if

in a complete basin. Several times we have liud to clear away these piles. The Empiojca.

first time was on tlie two last days of December, when the thermometer ranged nt

the time from 35 to 2!). Tortunately tliere was no wind, and during the two

days no one surt'ered ; all fully satisfied that our clothing was enough to resist cioii.ing.

euch cold, even greater, which we soon after had an opportunity of trying; for

on the rjth and (Jth of January, we were obliged to repeat the work with the

thermometer ranging between 49 and 44. In fact, I do not think any one has

been seriously frostbitten or even hardly touched.

One of the men in the l)eginning of October was persuaded bj soiree knowing
fellows tiiat liis cheek was touched, and letting them rub it, thej Jid it so
cH'ectually as to take the skin off.

142. Hardly a day has passed but some of the officers have been out and Ksereise.
walked at least a mile, and I'rctiuently round the island. The men invariably

are sent out on Sunday, weather permitting, and other days when nothing was
doing on board. As a proof of the goodness of the clothing and what a man can
do in these regicms in winter when well protected, I give one instance.

143. On New Year's Day three of the men, petty officers, went for a walk "^'"''"8 *" Clothing,
about ten o'clock; as it was blowing strong at the time, 6 from K.S.E., snow

dri\ ing and thermometer varying from 30 to 27, I certainly thought they would
not go far; but as they had not returned iiy dinner time, I felt very xmeasy.
However, at 12.30 tliey got on board all safe, having walked from the ship along
the southern shores of the island to its S.W. point, where they ascended to the
sunnnit, (no inconsiderable tug,) passed over the top, and descended again by the
gully on the eastern side, and at the back of the graves. I certainly expected
some of them would have been frostl)itten ; but no ; the only inconvenience they
say they ttlt, was the hard work getting along against the wind. Two had on
the sialskin dre>ses, the other only duck over-alls and frock. All had the cloth
boot; rather an imwieldy thing to travel in certaiidy, altlumgh all the officers now
walk about in them. It is a most comfortable thing I'or standing about in, and
we found it particularly so when working on the ice.

144. The school was connnenced on t'"' 30tli of Novend)er, and although we Sci.ooi, &c.
ha\enot had a strong nuister of pupils, those attending have improved in reading,
writing, and arithmetic. On the Sunday evenings in January, we began reading
C'ununing's Apocalyptic LKtures. The first evening tliere were but lew auditcrs;
liowever, the next time nearly all the men were present, and certainly seemed
deeply interested.

IIT). Frost we cannot manage to keep out entirely, and lately we have been I'mst, impiMibic lo-
i)bllged to keep the Sylvester stove going all night, causing a greater con>umption *"'■'' "'"'
of coals than otherwise would lia\e been re(iuisite. Intact, from the very position
in which the slii|) has been placed, we have had more need of fires. The bows
inside have always been thickly coated with ice since Oetol)er, the storerooms
and lockers likewise, and many ol' the preserved provisions, \c. on opening have
been found (piite i'rozen.

14{). Our poor dogs I hardly know how to teed, for when all the bread-dust Hnps iiiffifulty in
is gone, (wliicli was tirst given them on the 1st December,) we shall feel at a "^^""°
loss what to give next. Hear or seal we have no chance of getting now; and as
the\ have already done us good service, I trust we shall not lose them, for they
will be invaluable in the work we have before us. On the lOtli of the month
the bread-dusl was all gone, and having siu'h a good supply of Hour, I ordered
a cask to be opened and a daily issue of half a ])oun(l each ; and as soon as pos-
sible to get a cask of whale blubber out of the house (where it lay buried deeply
in the snow) for their use. A cask was opened for them before, but they would
han!!\ touch it.

147. On the l.")th ol Januarv 1 was enabled to visit Cape lUlev, bv taking vuu to Cpo Riit-y-

i J

jj u

Work on the icons"'"'

Digging for traciH,
recorils '^c.

Brewing.

Opinion on the bctr,

Victualling, Sec

Sec I^nclosurc, kaIc
N.>. I-

Sof Knclovurc, sc.ilc
Nu. 'J.

See Eru'Iofure, Nn. 1'

See Knclosure, s>.vle
No. :i.

Wiiuls lor tlic inontti

126

adviuitnfjc of n calm dny. From its vicinity I liiul n good view of tlic Ice in
Harrow Strait. It was greatly piled up, and travelling over it would ht\\v l>een
heavy work, .lust on the point, the ice had aceumidated mid risen up to a very
great height. The course fioin the ship to the jjoint was very tortuous, — passing
round to avoid so nuich hununcH'kv stutf, making the distance (piite one ipiarter
more than it really is; however, tin walking was not so had, as the snow was
bard packed hy the late gales.

1 IH. On the "Jtth we were imder the necessity of turning out again to work
on the ice, lor it had so forced up under the hows that it was (juite necessary to
R'niove it. The thermometer was ri>ngii\g from 'M" to 39", hut no one scer.ied
to feel the cold.

1 IJ). l'"or sometime I had detennined mi having a most searching examination
into every spot on shore at all distnrlx'd, or where i. vould he natural to supiiose
traces of any sort might Ik- found or docnments dcpi 'ted, if any left ; not that
I for an instant douhted its not having heeii done etiectually by both Captain
Austin and Sir Kdward Helcher, but rather that it would Ik- a further satisfac-
tion to every oiii' that no endeavour had been neglected to clear up the fate of
the two ships. Therefore it was connnenced on this very day, tliv 21th, i)y a
party of men in charge of Mr. Alston, mate, and kept constantly at the work, at
least when the weather pennitted.

l.")(>. The tirst place examined was under the pile of tiis; they were removed
and each .-nrefully examined ; when within tlu circmnt'erence of a twelve-feet
radius was dug down, I's far a> it was possible to go, without making any
discovery but a few fragments of bone, wood, \c., which has all been put
together in a box for further inspection. The digging was not particularly hard,
for the grounii being pretty well covered with snow, the cold had not so deeply
penetrated.

1 ol. Our latter etforts at brewing have been more succissi'ul tlian the rormer,
inasmuch that the one is really good, and the other, tliougl' weak, drinkable.
Beer I consider a most excellent beverage in these regions ; i.nd I really think
the issue, wliieh was continued to the men throughout the hardest time of our
work, tended (jiiitc as much to keejiing them in health as anything else. It was
but a sinall (piantity, certainly (half-a-pint each man at eleven o'clock), but the
real goodness of the stiit!'(Mr. Allsop's nurtmi ale) was such that 1 can -ay it
was the best drink of the sort I ever tasted. .Vt first tln' men found it so cold
that it fairly made their teeth ache; but on taking oil' the chill they apixared to
enjoy it, finding it both invigorating and refri'shing.

l.")"2. .\t the end of the year, finding the ]K'ople enjoying such good health, I
resolved on making a change in the victualling. .Another reason for doing it
was, that at the old rate of issuing three times in the wiek, we should only have
enough (preserved meats) t( last fit'teen months, and, considering it probable
that we might have to stop r.ut another winter, should fall short. I intended
bringing it back to the scale I had establislu'd on the 1st of Sejitember IM.")!?,
and which was in use until .Mr. M'Corniick the surgeon's return from Welling-
ton Channel. It was then referred to him, and he strongly advised a furtlier
incrciisi-, to which I assented, and placed the crew on such a scale, but inteniled
only to continue it for a month or so after the men got into a thorough good
state. However, when the ship was di-iven on shore, and in such a state for a
long tinu'. I again rct't'rred it to Mr. M'Corniick; he objected, and gave nie a
letter on the subject ; ncvrrtheless, considering evi'fy circumstance, I held to n>y
resolve, but increased the fruit and vegetables, and, instead of the full allowance
of corned Iteef, gave only half, making up the weight with jievk and bacon.

I.")!?. This month altogether ha- iieen rather win ly ; the heaviest, as usual,
f"oni a (piarter iH'tween cast and south. During one gale's eDiitinnance it was
never steady at one poin' for one (piarter of the forty-eight hours it lasted. At
one tinie it had iiMthmg in it. It commeiiced S.I",. Ir, I",. 1, soon up to (!, then
S.Iv 7, I-S.K. H to !»,' i:. bv N. 9, K.S.K. 9, S.lv bV S. 9, S.K. bv K. 9 to lo,
S.S.IC. X, S. by K. .-), S.S., i: , and. calm. The gre:iU>t strength '..',' the \.W.
winds luis been 7- The tiiermoiiieter during the gale was rang'iig l)et\veen 11°
and .'^9" ; nririne barometer, ;}(l" .')7' and -J')' \YX. Snow we have had none, in
fact cannot look for it at such a low teni|K'rature. The drift has been very
heavv in the gales. Mean temperature ot the thermometer for the month,

FAruary 18J.1.

Ijt. The month came in with a wind which I think we may fairly say has

127

it
)ld

WilS

I lieu
10,
W.

', in

has

been the heaviest on us sinre we have been lierc. It commenced S.E. 4 to
S.S.K. (), hut (lid not hist h)ng, or prevent oiu" usual walking exercise, particu-
larly as clouds were showii;;^ strong indications of the sun not being tar off.
Some who were on the top of' Heechey Island reported they had seen him ; how- sunsccn.
ever, on the next day, the 2(1, l)eing very fine, the master and myself went up,
and sine enougli, just alioxe tlie opposite land of Barrow Strait, appeared the
Hun's upper limb : thus, after an ai)sence of eiglity-two days, do we again see the
glorious orb of day. Sunday, tlie lOth, was a most beautifid day, with a clear
bright sky ; and it was really delightful to have the sun shining upon you again.
On seeing tlie golden rays shooting into my cabin, on coming atl from church
service, and illumining the shelves so l)egrimed imd l)lack with smoke and dust,
that I could not but help feeling what a merciful (Jod was about us, and how
thankfal we ought to be for His lx)unties.

15"). The time is now drawing on when I trust we shall be able to f^t to
work etlcctually about releasing the ship and getting her once more afloat. This
unfortunate occurrence will make a most material difference in the arrimgement
I first came to for carrying out the orders of Sir K. Belcher; for at the time the
travelling piu'ties ought to be out, all our streni^th and energy would be required iiihuing to spring irn-
fot making preparations for clearing away the ice about the ship to open a dock »"""'8>*"='
f<»r heaving her oft" into. I do not expect to Ik* able to work effectually with
the saws until May ; but there is so much to be done, lK)th In'fore and after, that
we cannot commence too soon ; and if I can send for the despatches it will be
(juit< . s nuich as we can reasonably do.

1.5!. It has l)een a thought of long and serious consideration, and as far hack
us the early part of December, in talking over with the master the arrangements
respecting the spring travelling, that, even were it possible to spare any men from
the ship's necessities, four would be (]uite as many as coidd l)e allotted to
Mr. M'C'ormick for any further se.irch he might wish to carry on, at the same
time accompanied with four dogs would make the party fully e([ual to six men.
But as Mr. M'Cormick up to this time has neither funiished me with his journal
of the boat expedition to Baring Bay, or any insight into his plans, I conclude
that he has nothing more in view. He informed me verbally that he had found
no traces ; Baring Bay was continu(ms land ; and that there is no possibility of
leading a travelling party through by land from that vicinity to Jones's Sound, uiiatingto travelling.
All there is to do, then, is to follow up the line of the " Assistance," which I an
see no necessity for. However, that liis energy might not be thrown away or
lost, 1 had determined on asking him to take a party on to Point Bcechey, the
last rendezvous named in my orders, and look into Inglis Bay. This would be
taking him through ground he has already been over; would he quite as much
as he could do, and, in all reason, that our means in the present position c(mld
accomplish. It would also be necessary to visit Point Phillips : Mr. Shellabear
with other four men and dogs I had selected for that service. The 10th of May
was the day appointed to be at these places.

15". In making these arrangements, to ensure no detention to the parties from
the " Assistance" beyond the day of their arrival at these places, for we do not
know but what circumstances mav prevent our getting there at the time named,
1 jnirposed going myself early in NIarch to Point Phillips, the first place named;
visit and ascertain the condition of the boat left at Abandon Pay by Mr. Penny,
thence to Baillie Hamilton Island No. "2, Diindas Island No. .'?, and Point
Becher No. \, then to the ship ; when, if eircmnstanccs would allow, both
Mr. M'Cormick and Mr. SlK'Uiibcar might go ofl' for the despatches.

158. At either of the points I visited, I should leave an open notice informing
the ollicer from the " Asvi-taiice" with the station at which my despatches would
be found, which I purposed to be the extremes — Points Phillips and Becher;
idso, tlie position of the ship imperatively requires all our united strength to get
her off, and in such a ixisitioii as to be readily attainable when called for; to
lea\ e his at Point Phillips if possible, at all events where he should find mine.

1.5!). As I intended taking twelve men and eight dogs, half only to accompany
me to the boat, I fully expected to get back to the ship by the end of April at
the furthest ; and my reason for tiiking a second jiarty and visiting the boat at
Abandon Hay, was, in the e\ent of its being necessary to cross to Bcechey Point
by the othcer visiting Point Phillips for ihe despatches, that means might lie got
readv if she wa>< not found (it. And it might be :u'tiiiil!y necessary to make one jiarty
of lour do all that a large one would have had to peri'orm, had we not been

liH

li I

128

drivuii oil shoiv, or sdra-sst'iil in gottiiij; olF last sciisoii. Mr. Klliott, the dcrk
ill fliariic, was llicMftinv diri'drd to ^ct provisions \i'. iiecfssiiry ready ; other
tionswere in iiand ; and on Monday, theTtli, I sent for tlie ollieers to f;et

lara

then- sleds and men prepared. A party was seleeled tor ine, and ii sled put
ireparutioii. Mr. .Vlstoii, mate, was to iiu\e elwir),'e of tlie second sled

with me.

Dojti in « b«i >iau'. !()!•. For tile last month or so the dogs have heen f,neally troiihled witli fits,

and no one appears to lie ahle to assign a reason. It was ehietiy eiinfhiecJ to
those we j^ot at Diseo, all snlleriiif;- more or less, wliiii on the l/th one uiitor-
timate hriite died, and two others of the same team seem aluuit to follow : one
oftiiese two is the hest of that lot. I'p to the middle of the month those Mr.
Kennedy lell appeared to lie tpiite I'ree of any disease, and doing remurkaliiy
well, wlien Milbrtiinately threi- have heeii attueked in a like manner, and I
really lliink we shall losi' some of them.
Digging flni«iie.i. I()l. Oil the :ixtli We had dug over ail those plaees that hud been heforo

examined, without tiiuling any record to the direction the missing ships have
taken. A few broken tent pegs, bones, pieces of glass, shii\ ings, iVc., was all
we got. By the bye, in that place so iinagiiiati\ely designated the garden, and
what 1 should say was the site of a tent, was discovered most of the broken
tent pegs, also scrajis of brown paper and a solitary piece of tallow candle
(mould). The cairn on the top of the island we have not yet found, allliough
frequent have been the searches ibr it ; liowever, we have plenty of time
before us yet.
Training foftriTciiing. 1()2. On the ±\d the flist travelling party were out for training, and they were
taken a distance of six miles altogether, with four (K)gs assisting. The load was
ulK)ut two-thirds ol what it will be, fully eciuipped. They were f()ur hours
about it, which, considering the many stoppages for the dogs to get over their
tits, 1 consider was pretty fair for the (irst (lay. We started with five dogs, but
one was so bad, that we were soon obliged to let him out. Another, and one
of the U'st of Mr. Kennedy's team, had three; but each succeeding one of so
short a duration, that on the return he seemed to have got rid of them fully, so
1 think that it is from sheer want of exercise. The next day six were in harness,
two of which were soon let out ; but the one of yesterday that had shaken tliein
off, went over the same ground and nearly the same ilistance, without the shallow
of anything ailing him ; since which we have been sledging oft", both with
men and dogs, gravel for the dock, the direction of which hail been already
marked out.

Hh\. On Sunday, the 27tli, a solitary ptarmigan was seen flying across the
bows, and close too.

ICI. The weather during the month has been fine, considering the time of
\ear, and the temperature at times very mild. On several occasions the
thermonieter has been as high as ten above zero ; and from the morning ol' the
i;Uh at 8 o'clock, until noon of the Kith, never lielow it. \\ inds during the
time from every (jiiarter, but between west and south niucli snow tell at these
times. The strongest wind during tlie month has lieeii from the N.K., but
iK'tween east and south the prevailing; between north and west a pretty fair
share, () the greatest strength, but only for a short time. Winds between west
and south more frecjiiently this month than ar.y preceding one.

IG."). Aurora horealis \\e have had very little of, — one way in which I think
we may account for tlii' mildness of the winter; and I am in Iiopes this forth-
coming season will lie an open one.

1()G. The mean temperature of the month was; maximum 11"; minimum
37^; mean 1"' !)■">'•
ImprewioM. 167. Thus having l)rought our proceedings up to t!ie end of l''ebruarv, I shall

record a few iiiipressioiis which of late have been coiistanliy presenting them-
selves to my iiund. I do i'()t give them as decided opinions, inerelv |)i'ol)aliilities,
which have arisen from the position In uiiicli we have \»ti\ placed bv ice driving
in; and nearlv driveii out to sea, or on siiori' bv ice driviiiLT out.

Weilher anil windt for
tha month.

KiS. Ill paragrajihs <)!, lo:?, and ll;i, I have said

anil

still believe that had

we been lying I'nrtlier out, or driven sooner, the cliances vvi-ri' verv few in favour
ot' our esciping vvilhoi;t serious diunages, pcrha])-: wricked. It is probable that
sucli a inislia)) in;iv have occurri'd to S'w ,loim I'Vankliii's ship-:; and anv sailor
looking at this nlNce the day afti'r we vveix' diiveii in, would ^nv direcllv such
was very possi!)le. Tlieiefore he could not have gone further north; but put

129

his ships, perhaps only ship, to rights ns well as it was possible ; pone nit with
the intention of poing home, thinking then that it was not necessary to Iciuc
any record; got into such a i)aclv as Sir James Hoss did; not so f'oVtimate in
bcnig reieasecl, and his disal)le(t sliips or ship witli all met a leart'id fate. We
find no traces of such an occurrence here certainly ; neither, I iK'lieve, have we
found anything of the " Fury," hut what has landed I'rom her. No records are
found here, none in Wellington Channel, as far as former searching parties have
been ; it therefore leaves the impression that he has not gone with his ships
beyond this spot on a forward movement. For I cannot think Sir J. Franklin
would commit such an oversight as to go from here without leaving some account
of his doings if ijrocceding. However, if they have gone through the Welliuj^ton
Channel,' l^uward Helcher will soon settle it. My opinion in 1850, written
at Fort Simpson after niy return from Cape Bathurst, in a concluding remark,
was, that there we nuist look for them.

169. Now as to the driving out with the ice, I state what has occurred to us ; Imprcmlons &c.
let others more able draw conclusions. I only give my impressions, for a decided

opinion I do not pretend to advance on these regions, only considering that we
nuist be governed by the circumstances in which we are placed.

170. 'i'wice in the latter part of August last were we driven out, and all by
the siulden coming away of the ice, which wc hardly thought would start.
Franklin might, as I have before said, have had his ships damiiged, was going on
with the repairs, doing his best endeavours to complete before cutting out, when
a strong N. or N.W. gale arising, might have driven ice and all out together ;
and, if not in a fit condition for sea, might have met with one of tliose sudden
occurrences among ice, — met witli mishaps which they had no power of controlling
or averting. It is iearfid to tiiink of, l)ut I cannot help such things presenting
themselves to my mind. If Adam Heck's piece of lin had on it the I6tli of Sep-
tember, 1 816, and as Captain Austin says, that there was evidence to siiow that
they left in a hurry, it is not unlikely tliat going out that way may have been
the case, and cause of the hurry. I am pretty certain that all the ice in this bay
tliat drove us on shore would have gone out again, had tlicre been any strong
wind from north iK'fore it set so firmly last along the shores, and the strait out-
side became so full. In fact we prepared for it, l)y the advice of the icemen, by
laying out warps, that the move might percliance drag us off into the deep water.
As it was, even against a strong wind, ( S.S.K., ) the tide alone forced out a large
body of ice, leaving a long lane of open water not much more than a quarter of
a mile to the eastward of us ; then what would such hummocky stuff' have done
if assisted by a strong wind besides?

171. The tide sets from Wellington Channel through Union Bay, and the chan- Tidw, 4e.
nel between the island and the main ; thence, and strongest, on nearly a south

line througli tliis bay into Barrow Straits. In d' eking, how freciuently, after
making the cuts, and labouring ineffectually, assisted with powder too, to get the
ice out, have we been obliged to desI.Vc; and, leaving it perhaps for the night,
found, on resuming again, that it was either all gone out, or else easily started.
This could only be caused by tide, and we considered it so, but whetlier ebb or
flood from Wellington Channel I have not yet decided on ; as I have only that
and the circumstance mentioned in paragraph 97 to judge from; however, oppor-
tunities I fully expect will not be wanting yet.

W. J. S. PuLLEN, Conmiander.

No. 2.

Commander Plllf.n to Mr. Thomas C. Fiu.len, Master, H. M. S. " Nortli Star.

II.M.S. "North Star," Bcechey Island,
26th August 1852.
Mi:.MouANnrM.
As the ship is now within a very short distance of her final berth, and I am
about to leave with a boat's crew on detached ser\ ice, you will therefor, uy-c all
despatch in preparing her for the winter. All material for constructing a house
will be huKied, and as close as possible to the spot pointed out for the erection
of the building.

' do not iliink it necessary that the ship should advance further in the bay
thaa a (piarter of a cable's length; should therefore any more ice break otl" after
having obtained that position, it will be rc(iuisitc to anchor.

130

The motcorologiciil journal will bo strictly kept by Mr. 'I'oms, asBistant mirgeoa,
and Mr. Sliellaboiir, sicond umstcr, in tlie form whicli bus In-on Hupplicd for that
purpoHf, und Mr. SiKlliilH-iir ti) make the t'liir eopits lor transmission Ui Kn^lnnd,
Mr. Klliott will make tlie fair copy of the cbromtmeter journal, as 1 take Mr.
Alston, mate, away with mc ; Peter Feiiecy, icc-maiter, will take charfec of •

watcu.

(Signed) W. J. S. I'ullen, Commander.

No. 3.

Thrown ovcrlxjan?. from H.M.S. "North Star," lying at «ingle anchor in
Erebus and Terror Hay, Beechev Island, on the 25th of September 1852. Wind
at the time light from north, a N.K. gale having just subsided. Ship not yet housed
in, ice not having made, althougli there is much soft sludge in the bay, which !■
driven about constantly by wind and tide. Union Hay closed up with ice.
Temperature of the air when this was thrown ovcrlK)ard 2r)..'j. Sea 29- "All well."

Should any one pick this up, please forward it to the following address :—

On H. M. Service.

To the Secretary

of the Admiralty,

London.
Stating in what latitude and longitude it was picked un, with the date, con-
dition of the cask, itc. ; in fact, any particular respecting the document.

P.S.— Two Iwttles with a similar notice were thrown overbt)ard at the same

time

Printed at Bcecbcy Island.

(Signed) W. J. S, Pullrn,

Conunander H.M.S. "North Star."

IX.

Report of Mr. Piilleii, Master, Her Majcsty'.s Ship " North Star."

1^ '

M k

No. 1.

Mr. T. C. PrLi.EN, Master, to Commander Pi'llen.

Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Erebus and Terror Bay,
Sir, Beechev Island, .Septeml)er 2d, 1 6.52.

I nK(i leave to report for your information, that on the evening of the 26th
ultimo, the day on which you left in the first gig, on tiie searching expedition up
Maxwell Ha\', I, at eight o'elot'k p.m., eoniiucncid iieiixing the sliip close up to
the Hoe edge, to secure her for the night, when I foinid tlie ice breaking away in
all directions ; and altliough I fleeted tlie ice mchnis as far in on tlie Hoe as the
whole length of our iiuwsers, tiie ice broke away wlietievera strain came on them.
It was lilowing moderately fresh now from N.E. ; Hniling the ship drifting, let go
(S.R.) aiidior ill .seven fathoms ; lient (H.H.) chain, and pointed yards to the
wind. 'I'owanls moniiiig, the lueeze having fieslKiu'd considerably, at six
o'clock let go 1 15.11.) aiichor, its tlie ice was now coining down in large pieces,
and occaMoiKilly striking tlie .ship lieavily, luivirg good wav on it with the force
of the wind. 'I'owanls noon of the 27tl» it ni!.: eiated, all the loose ice having
worked its way out of the bay, and the wind having sliifleil to the N.N.W., gave
her more cable. Not bi'iiig able to do this bel'or •, as with the wind at N.E. we
were tailing rather elosi' in than 1 liked. At O.i'O p.m. the ice again la-gan to
mo\(', and in a very large mass : fortunately there was no wind to give it much
way before it reached us ; saw all clear for getting sail on the ship, should we

18t

be tom from our anchors. Whrn the \cc first took the ship, it forced her .stem in
towanlH th • shore, and hroiidsido to the wind, giving her a couple of strealts li^t
to starboard, and both cables with as nuich as they could U'ar; rortmuifely the
holding ground was giKMl. I think, U-t'ore we got the whole weight of this
iimuensc quiintity, wliieh was extencling o\»'r a couple of miles, a point of .t ti)ok
■omewhert! down by Cape Hiley, and remained stationary. At 10.15 i.m. to our
relief it eased ott", passe(l the ship and drifted out of the bay. There was still a
large quantity of ice remaining at the head of thi' bay, and nnmd the northern
ahore, which all broke away in one mass at '2.',\0 a.m. of the MOth, the whole of
which came down and hung across the ship's Ik)ws i"":ain, bringing a tremendoui
strain on l)oth cables, which i every moment expected to see part, and the ship
driven ashore ; we dragged for the distance of almut half a cable's length, when
suddenly a crack took place iii the ice, right ahead of th. ship (ard stretching
from the bow, right across the whole width of the "uay \ wvs'iot into the opening
like an arrow, and the ship was innnediately relieved from this heavy pressure on
her; a large (juantity remained yet hanging on us, which I dispersed with some
charges ot powder. The bay now totally clear of all ice, weighed and sighted
lN)th anchors, shitted la-rth higher up, a heavy undertaking with our small crew,
but the assistant surgeon and clerk in charge gave us their strength at the wind-
lass, and fortunately only one man on sick list. Had I not the two anchors
down, so small a crew on board the ship, from the two boat exix'ditions away,
and u possibility of Iwing hampered by ice outside, and thereby preventing uie
from returning to this anchorage, I should have slipped and gone to sea.

I remain, Ike.

T. C. Pii-LKN, Master.

ill

. i

Proceedings of ilie "North Star," 21st March 1853.

Sir,

No. 1.

Commander Pullen to Captain Sir E. Belciieu, C.B.
IIepout of Proceedings.
H.M.S. "North Star," Bcechey Island, 21st INIarch 1853.

1. In order that you may Ix- fully acipiainted with the proceedings of Her
Majesty's Ship under my coinnii'.nd, I forward a copy of my journal, and in
proceeding with this letter, beg to reier you to the different paragraphs for full
details.

2. (Captain Kellett with his tender, the " Intrepid," lefluson Sunday (-2 p.m.,)
after having completed their transfer of stores and coals from this ship. Just on
the point of leaving he ga\e me a letter, urging the necessity of \isitiiig Port
Leopold, and knowing it to be your wish likewise, I determined on getting the
" Mary" yacht ofli' the beaeli, and into this bay for the purpose, and performing
that service either on my way to or return from Muxwell Hay.

:?. On Monday we commenced cutting dock to get the ship into a secure berth
the first thing, and on the same day I told Mr. M'Cormick, the surgeon, that he
could go avay on Wednesday, as by that time we should be so iai ad\aiieed, as
to Ik" better able to sjiare men, a boat's vww was therefore named and everything
in preparation.

4. On Thursday the igth of August, and the same day Mr. M'Cormick left
with the whale-boat and a crew of six men, j fully ecjulpped and provisioned for
one month,) for Wellington Cha-iiiel. Kvery thing was supplied him that he
demanded, and on leaving he expressed satisfaciion at his lit out. I gave hira
no orders, onlv furnishinu; h.ini with a sketch of my future r
I forward you a copy.

112

isjeeeuiiigs, oi vvuicu

;l; ■•

I j!

189

n. Mr. Ktinu'dy on InndiiiR immcdiatfly iiintU' a proposition lor ♦"iirtluTNcnrch,
in tlic (lirtrtioii lie liiul ulriii<ly Ikcm, iiiul j,mvi' nic ii virhal iu<jiint ol' what |i8
i'nd doiu". 'I'liis, liiKilliir witii in.v pruardinj,"* rtliiliii^; to lii' riiinisition, and ill
I'ail.MV, is (Ktuiii'd ill my journal in paraj,'ra|>lis 17 to X>. Copiis of tlio lorrc-
sptMidi.i'v I also forward.

G. .Mr. l.iask, iir-inastir ot'tlir " Prince. MlK-rt," was out in this ship hoforcj
tlu' a(Coui\t Ik- pivc of tin- spa the pn>visionj' wire iandid in, ( .\dniiralty
Inlet) i«i as follows: -'I'ho provisions an- on t'lC t-asti'm si<lc of the inh t, one
mill' and a half fn>in tlu- extrenie north jx Int. A heacon was placed on the
nortli point. With Wdllaston Island right alirea.^t, and uliout time hundred
yards trotn where tiie provisions lie, is an aiiclior and se\enty fathoms ot chain,
which the " North Star" was ohliited to slip from in a gale.

7. 'I'lie " I'rince .MlHTt" hronglit over from I'ort Leopold all the letters left
there In Sir .lames Uoss's ships, and .Mr. Kennedy is reporting evir\ thing there
in such good condition, I deferred my visit to a future period. 'I'hey let' us on
the 'J Ith of .\ugust, alter linding a (pumtity of provisions, stores, \c., for cache.
I sent liy Mr. Kemiedy all the letters you left, together with copies of the cor-
respondence between liim and myself, with every account up to the last moment.

H. We were now as far in as I considered it prudent to go for the nresent, ( sec
tracing of the bav, ) much of the ice having broken otfand floated out to sea,
but relurniitg willi the tide, and as the therniometirgot down, treezing all together,
lormiii" with the yoimg ice a compact ImkIv around us. 'I'he ice inside of us was
ptill fii-t, without a single crack in it, and thinking that if 1 det'errcfl any longer
the trij) to Maxwell Hay, it would be eiilircly previ^nted, 1 determined to get
awav as soon as possible. One of the cutters was, therel'ori', provisioiu'd for a
month, anil on the 'JOth I started, after handing to the master v ritten instruc-
tions for his guidance relative to the <luties of the ship.

!>. .M\ absence on this tri|» was only a wci'k, the proceedings of which arc
fullv detailed in my journal from paragraph 'AS to is iiuhi-ive; but, allhough it
was successful in the main objeel, it has closi'd up entirely the hi'ad of the l)ay,
nnd fully corroborative of vour opinion on the stone ciieles examined at Cape
lliley.

10. I uof back to the shipontlie -'nd i-f Septi'mi)er, and to my surprise found
all the ite in the b.ay had deaied out, very nearly, a> the master informed mc,
tiikiiiLT the " North Star" with it. A copy of his report I I'orward, (sec enclo-
sure. 1). ' Mr. M'Coriiiick had not nlurned, and the house which had been com-
nienced just after 1 left, was in a good state of forwardness ; but on linilinu; there
was not material sutlicicnt to complete it on so large a scale, we were obliged to
reduce it. It is situated on t!ie S.Iv side of the island, shelterid from the cold N.
and N.W. winds, and commanding a good vii'w of thi' entrance ot' the bay.
The lir>t dimensions were ()0 < 30.; it is now ,'((! ■ J j ; 'Mid in tlu- tid-holo
of one of the '* .M'Lellan's" topmasts in the N.W. corner, a record relating to its
estaltlishment, vvitii a few coins, were (iejio.^ited. I gave it the name of North-
umberland House, in hoii'Uir ot' his (Jraee the lirst Lord of the .Vdmiralty.

1 1. Th'.' ship was now \iiig at anchor in-idr of what I call tlu- first point, in
seven I'alhnins of water, m about as good a position as slu- could possibly b(3
until the ice fully made; it was then m\ intention to cut a sliort di.stanee further
ill for a final winter berth.

12. On the 7th of S<.pteml«'r, a ipri itity of ice had been driven into the bay
witii the K. and IvS.l".. winds, lying ' irectly across its month, and ju.--t outside
our ani'liorage, on which, our attention was fixed, \\ lien to our astonishment a sail
hove in sight, s^tim -bowing that slu' was possessed of an auxiliary steam power,
and finally pro\ iny to ba the '• Isabel." At ten she ani'hortd close to, and our boat
which had boarded her on coming in, returned with the captain; when I had
the salisl'actioa 'A' vvelcoiijiig in these regions ('oimiiaiider Ingli'lield, jiiiothcr
volunteer for Arctic discovery, but under private auspice-. Mr only left I'.nglaiid
on tlu loth of .lul\. and has nio-t decidedly maiie good use of his time and an
open -eason. WhaK Souml, Smith's Soinid, and Joaes's Sound, with tln' adja-
cent coa>ts, he has fully and closely explored; exhibiting all the up|)er |)art of
Baffin's Hay in (piite a dilVerent form from what it has iiitherto borne in our
chart-. 'I'he '• isiiber' brought out sundry k'lters fi)r the sipiadion, and a Iilw
small package- besides for you. The letters 1 forward with the first travelling
parrie-. the other articles by the second, so as to meet (air sleds by the lOth of
May at I'oiut I'luJIips, should n (thing meauwliilc occur to prevcut it.

ii i

13.-)

\'.\ ( aptuin InnKlidil Icnviiijf for EiiKland tin- m-xt morning; at .1 a.m., I Ncnt
by liim duplicutc copies ot all your drspatcliiM, u<i well as a Ultir by luyttvW to
till' Stcritarv «>t" the Admiralty, a copy ot' wliicli I I'orwanl. In parayraplis M
t(> (V.\ an- tiill details ot the time.

It. Mr. M'CJormiek not lia\ing yet returned, and (diinideriiig tlie time I had
taken in the trip to Maxwell Hay, a distanee ipiite eiiual to what he had to [rt-
form, 1 was j^ettinj; ratlur uneasy at his protracted ahsciice, and as there wia
•till oiKii water I was determined on anticipating my I'ornur arrangements, which
»re <letailed in the first part of my journal, hy sending a lioat away at once,
to perform the (tervice of making depots, ns v ell as ascertain the cause of
Mr. M'l'orinick's detention. Mr. .Micllabeiir, '..v second master, was selected
for this Her\ ice, and despitchcd on the attenioon of the Hth o'' SentcmUT, with
one of the cutters, a crew ot six men, and a week's provisions, besides a <inantity
for depots for future operations. I gave him instiuctions, li?iiiting his voyage
to C'a|H' ( )sl)orne, which I considered (piite as much as he could perform, an(i a
week time enough to do it in.

1.'). Shortly after H p.m. of the same day Mr. M'Cormick arrived on hoard, all
well, having, off Cane S])enccr, communicated with Mr. Shellak-ar, and leaving
him with a favomalilc lireezc imder all sail to the northward.

Ki. 'I'lie smgeon's report was of an vnisucccssfid trip, both as to discovery of
traces, or any chance ot leading a party by land through to .lones's Kand. Ilo
has U-en as far north as I'oint llogarth, and added nothing new to what waH
already known of tin- coast l)etween this place and it, only confirming the
uci'ounts of the travelling parties from Mr. IVmiy's vessels m 1851. I'art of
the exploration was i)erformed by sled.

1". On the l.Uh Air. Shellabcar returned, having only partially executed lu's
mission in conseciucnce of the rapid fornuition of the young ice. (See journal of
proceedings, enclosure K.)

IH. All hands were now .)n board. AVinter nrcparations were therefore going
on rapidly, and 1 was looking anxiously for tlie making of the ice to complete
final arrangements, and to gtt into the berth for full due. Much ice had lately
driven into the bay with south and east winds, frccpiently so connecting that I
have imagined it all fast lor good; but north and north-west winds would send it
out again ; cast or west winds would oidy drive it from side to side. None of our
sea gear was yet unrove, for with j-ucli heavy ice as was frecpiently in the bay,
or driving out, might possibly take us with it. The strong winds alone from
K.W. or N. 1 feared not, for the holding ground was ginxl 'marie or stiti' white
mud). The topgallant masts, however, were got down.

1!). I had begun a survey of the bay, and altliougli taking every opportunity
that atVonled, we got on slowly, for the cold in ' strong breezes were too much at
♦';nes; hDWCver, it led us over ground which ot^iirwise might not have been \i>ited,
when, on the morning of the 1 Ith, pulling across for the I'astern shores of the
bay, something on the northern range ot hills was seen, and at first taken for
hears. On examination it proved to be two cairns, which I emi)loye(l myself the
next <lay and (hiy following In examining. I found them regular built marks,
which were dose I'xamined, and both imdcrncatli and around the ground opened
und dug down as far as po^^ihlr without finding the least traces ot' who built
tlicm, or how i(aig the\ h;' been standing; no very great time 1 should say, at
least with comparison to the circles of stones, tor there was a freshness about iheni
which wc have not found in the latter. F also found on the eastern shores of the
hay a snaill i)ile of gravel, with se\eral pieces of well-bleached small line about
it; but, on examination, notbini! further tinned up. I condiulcd it was a sur-
veying station, as it was similar to what 1 had just been erecting; moreover, one
of mine was dose by. IVihaps those on the hill might ha\e been for the same
pur])ose ; but I hardly under-* ind why two sliould have been so dose together.
1 (lug between them, but met a like disappointment. Those on the hill I have
fixed, and marked in my sur\iy of the bay upper and lower cairn ; the upper one
is71(t feet abo\c the low-water mark, barometrical measurement. (For the whole
detail, sec paragraphs "7 to f<() inclusive.)

'20. On the 'J'jd I'liion Hay was full of ice, all apparently fast. I walked out
on it a short distance from the shores of Ikrchcy Island. For the next two days
the ice would occasionally form in the bay when the wind was light or calm, but
the N. or N.W. winds setting It in motion, would soon break it up again, and
it would drive about the bay in long narrow streams of sludge; in tiie sheltered

K 3

Uli

II I

134

If
I''

I. !i

('.^

farts, however, it would remain. On the 27th at noon all the eastern parts of the
my and well out at sea was clear of ice (the wind was E.N.E.), but in the
evening the u iiid came from E.S.E., and mucii ice was seen outside driving to
the westward. At midnight quantities of it came into tlic bay, striking ua
hcavilv enough to l)e felt as it oame in contact.

21. Tlic weather of late had shown strong symptoms of a final close to the
season ; much snow had fallen, completel}' co\eriug all the lands adjacent, and
the S. and S.E. winds brought into the bay heavy ma.sses of old ice. On the
25th, the water outside of us being open, I set adrift some printed notices in a
cask and two bottles, in hopes they may find their way to smne visited placs^
picked up, and forwarded to the Admiralty. A fac-simile of one of these
papers I forward for your information.

22. Early on the morning of the 28th the wind veered round to S.E., occa-
sionally blowing fresii, and ice, increasing Ixjth in quantity and weight, compared
to whiit had already come in, was thickl}- crowding in the bay. At eight the
bay and out to seaward us far .is the eye could reach was completely covered.
Occasionally throughout the day it would move, when at Kt.IJO p.m. it came on
to blow, and so continued that we were finally driven by heavy pressure from
our holding and on shore, without the least possibility of averting such a calamity.
And [ can only say that it was by the interposition of an all-merciful Providence
that we es<-apcd serious damage, jKTliaps total wreck.

23. Incidents now crowded so thick and fast upon us in connexion with the
operations that have Irh-u carried tm for the release of the ship, the means
adopted for keeping her in an upright position in safety, so to ensure the comfort
and health of the crew, extend over such a period, and embrace so nmch matter,
that I must l>eg to refer you to my jounial, k'giiming with piu-agraph 1)1 to 1.38,
and which closes the year 1 R52.

24. The first two nionths of IS.')."? do not contain any very great matter, more
than the having to work again on the ice, and the thorough searching of Beechey
Island, without resulting in any discoveries : and thus I conclude my jouniiU at
the end of February.

25. It had long \)ecn a subject of deep consideratiim with me how to send so
many parties away as would Ik- necessary to carry out fully your orders, when
we should rcijuire all our strength to relea.se the ship from her unfortunate
position. As Mr. M'Cormiek had not connnunicated to me anything of his
exploration in Wellington Channel, more than a verbal report the evening he
returned on Iward, I naturally concluded that he had nothing more in view.
However, that his energies might not Ik- lost, I had decided on asking him to
lead the party on to I'oint iTecher, and pick up the despatclies there, giving
him for the service four men and four dogs, which would make the strength of
his party fully equal to eight, sufhcicnt for the purjwse recjuired, an<l ijuite as
much as our necessities could spare.

26. I had detennined to go myself with one party to Point Phillips, and leave
earlier than usual, in order that I might have ail my strength at the ship when
rciiuired, and not detain your parties at the reiidc/vons, iiirther than the day
named in the event of mine not reaching. .\t Point Pliiliips I should have my
despatches, then cross to Point Hecher, leave anotiur lopy there, and back to
the ship, and if possible send olV a party so to \yv at those places hy the Kith of
May. Arrangements were therefore made to carry out these projxisitions, sledge
crews appointed, and pnn isions, \c. prepared.

27. .As I intended visiting tlie boat in Ahaiidon Hay, and Mscertain her condi-
tion, I decided on taking an laixiliary party, so that I may he al)U' to send hack,
and have such arrangements made should she not Ik' Cound fit for service, if
recpiired, to have one got ready to r('])lace her. .Mr. .Al-ton, mute, 1 hud fixed
on to ])erf<)rm this service, and desired him to jjrepare liiinself and parlv. Mr.
Shellaheur, the second master, 1 intiiid leading the jiuity for the (lcs|iatclus, hut
his )>repur;ition would not reiiuire imnicdiute utteiitinii. i^'roin Mr. >i'('orniiek I
requested a copy of his journal of proceedings, aei|uainting him at the same time
that I would, if iiossiiile. leave on the lOth of March.

2S. It was not until the Ith instunt that I received this jouniul, with a letter
addressed to me re(piesting me to forward it to you. Kneioscd in niv letter waa
one for you, which I also forwiird, in which Mr. M'( 'orniiek states there is
nothing further for him to do in VVtiiiniiion ( PtMuui, iaii propoxs a search in
Smith's and Jones's Sounds, and start directly I return, a proposition inadmissible,

135

■nd one, I can with tnith say, T would not think of proposing myself: he cannot
have considered the thinjr mnturely. I told him plainly that it was impossible
in more ways than one, and to convince him how little there was to do in that
direction, snowed him the tracing Captain I iigleficld left for you ; and proposed
what I had Iwfore thought on, namely— that he should lead a party to Cape
Bcchcr ; hut this he would not think of, persisting on my forwarding his plan.
His objection leaves Tnc under the necessity of making every effort to make the
round, and I have decided on only sending one party, and that a small one, to
be at Point Phillips by the 10th of May.

29. On reading over Mr. M'Cormick's journal, I sec that he complains very
much of the boat, and her capabilities for the service ; she is old, certainly, but
was in good repair, and from my own experience of boat service, I would have

{ireferred her to any other we have got ; in fact, she was the one I had fixed on
or myself, but as he dcc'dcd on taking her, I was obliged to take a cutter.

30. I intended first leaving on the 10th instant, but strong winds and a low
temperature have prevented it effectually, and getting Mr. M'Cormick's journal
so late, has entailed more work on me, that I may fully explain to you the
impossibilities he has proposed. Of course the survey of the bay I was obliged
to give up, as well as other matters when the ship got on shore ; for it required
all our united strength to do what wa? requisite for her safety ; however, now I
think I have managed to get in sufficient of the outline, &c., as will fully assist
in explaining to you, not only what has been done, but what remains yet to be
done, with the impossibilitj' of the feasibility of the surgeon's plan.

31. Now for getting the " Mary" off; I nave marked her true position on the
chart, of which 1 send you the trace, also the line of smooth floe. Between her
and the smooth floe lie heavy masses of grounded ice, ranging from ten to forty
feet in thickness, tlirown up in hummocks, in inextricable confusion. To launch
a boat of twelve tons over this would be destruction ; to attempt to cut or clear
it away is an impossibility with our means, in a reasonable time; and to wait for
open water, judging by the difference of what it is now, and when we arrived
here, and which was not cleared out abreast of where the " Mary" is lying until
the latter end of August, I doubt whether it will go out this year. The ice-
men I had there two or three days ago ; their opinion coincided together in every
point except the open water ; two said the middle or latter end of July, the third
the latter end of August or September.

32. Mr. M'Cormick wishes to go directly I return, and is certain I shall reach
your winter quarters. I am not so sure, although I shall make every endeavour
to do so ; but as I victual only to the 20th of April, it will depend partly on
that, besides other circumstances may occur on our journey. M3' arrangements
are to be back to the ship by that time, and although we shall not be able to
work with the saws, yet there is so much to be done, that it will not be a bit too
soon to commence. I do not think saws will be of service until the temperature
stands at 20° or 30°, which will not probably be before May ; this is also
the opinion of tlie ice-ciuarteniiasters, when all our strength will be required to
keep them going, for the ice about us is not of common tliickness. It is not
that alone, but there is the parbuckling and heaving ofl', which before we can do
I fully expect to liave to dear the ship out altogether. Mr. M'Cormick,
when he (lelivered ills journal, told ine tliat lie did not expect to be able
to go unti". al'ter the sliip\va> oil': that time it is impossible to calculate on. As
far as I can judge, it will not be he.rorc the end of .July, when it would be late
to go away on a three months' Noynge, as lie proposes.

3;i. Our training i'or travelling has htcn getting gravel off for the dock, which
we have been employed at since the end of Fcliruary ; its direction I have
marked off in the ciiart as far as I can see at i)rc'sent. In tiie early part of
March we had sonie heavy breizcs and a low temperature, thermometer down
to 4fi°, and not higlier than 10°, for several days, but towards the middle of the
month it got up, and on the l/th was as high as 18°, but soim fell again.

31. I enclose luirwitli the rtturn of jHovisioiis, sick report, and documents,
as per schedule ; and in conchHion it is but jiisiice to say, that during our
trying and arduous work, I rrciivcd ewry assistance i'roni the executive oilicers,
and in whose favoiu- 1 cannot speak loo liighly; — working with the men, and
showiuL^ ii good example under our .•ilniost insunn.ounta.ble ditMculties; and
trials. It is also gratitVing to inc to l)e able to record the services of a civilian,
Mr. Elliott, the cleik iii charge, who did his part of the manual labour, which

R 4

11'

^f ;

136

fell hca\ il y on all, and docs liini great credit. The mnisual good health that we
have all enjoyed up to this time, will show the attention of the medical officers
to tiieir department ; and for tiic crew I ani but too happy to add that their
con(hict has eijualled my most sanguine expectations ; — even when no hope
rei\iained of getting otF, they never lost heart, but held on cheerl'ully tiirough
all.

I have, &c.

W. J. S. Pl'i.lkn, Ccnnnandcr.

No. 2.

Proceedings of y\r. W. B. Siiki.i.aheaii, Second Master, and Travelling Party
up the Wellington Channel, 22n(l April to 21st May, ISf^'J.

Mr. SuKixAUKAu to Commander Pri.i.EX.

In forwarding to you the enclosed copy ot my journal, I have to regret that
the state of the ice siiould have prevented me carrying out your wishes more
fully. I trust, however, that the steps I have taken may meet your approval.

My orders, " To be guided by the intelligence ac(iuircd at Point Phillips,"

[)laced me in a difficult position, as I found at once that the ice had been found
)v you a month previously unsafe for travelling, and getting worse daily, and
that it was your mtention " to despatch a party to ('ape Hecher on your return
to the ship." Knowing my parly to be the one referred to, I endeavoured to
reach that Ca])c by going to tiie eastward of the I>lan(ls, but finding the ice in
the state mentioned in my journal, and not being provided with a boat of any
sort to secure my retreat, I was compelled reluctantly to return to Cape
Phillips, in order to make certain of being at one of the places of rendezvous at
the date mentioned in my orders.

It gives me great pleasure to be able to represent the continued good conduct
of the five men composing the party, to your notice. It was chiefly owing to
their care and attention that I was enabled to take the sledge in safety over
what has I)een, I believe, a continuation of the worst ice it has ever been the lot
of Arctic travellers to encounter.

I have, &c.

\V. B. SUKI.I.AIIKAII,

Second Master, late in charge of a Travelling Party.

The Men referred to: —
Thomas Cihinstki), Sailmaker's .Mate.
Corporal Hknson, Uoyal Marine Artillery.
David Hook, A.M.

,I(IHN I)l N( AN, A.B.
John I'kost, A.IJ.

No. ;?.

Acknowu;d(;in(; Receii't or Jorn\Ai..

Commander Pli.i.en >o Mr. W. B. Sin:i.i.AiiE\ii.

" North Star,"
Sir, Beecliey Island, 27lli -May, IR.'i.l.

I HAVE to acknowledge the receipt of your journal of ])r()cee(lings on the
travelling expedition to Point Phillips, an<l attempt to cross to Cape lU'clicr.

I feel satisfied that all has been ])erformed that was possible under the existing
circumstances, and that your decisions were prudent.

The report of the behiiviour of your men is most pleasing, with which they
have lx.'en made ac(piainted.

I am, tVc.
W. J. S. 1'ui.li;n, Commander.

137

No. 4.

Journal of the PnocKEDiNRS of a Travelling Party np the Wellington Channel,
for the purpose of coiiiniunicating with a party from Sir Edward Belcher,
under the command of Mr. William B. Shellal>car, second master. From
II. M.S. " North Star," lying in Erebus and Terror Bay, Bccclicy Island.

First Jouuney.

Friday, April 22d. — 1 p.m. a working party went on in advance with the wimiN. w. s<
sledge, us far as the hummocks in Union Bay. At 3.30 myself and a party of '^"'"'- *•
five men left the ship, taking four dogs with us. At 4.15 we overtook the
sledge, harnessed the dogs to, and went on over some very hummocky ice. As
the Hoc looked better to seaward, I struck out in that direction, and at 5 came
to a succession of leads, in which, however, we made but little northing, occa-
sionally crossing ridges of heavy hummocks, through which we were obliged to
cut a road. From 9 to 1 1 working through hummocks ; soon afterwards it
became dusk, and so hazy that I could sec nothing distinctly at any distance,
I therefore left the sledge and went ahead to look for a lead. I saw several,
but none looking very promising ; and Iwing uncertain which was the best, I
encamped at 11.45, thinking we should get through better in the morning, when
the haze cleared off. We were now about 8 miles W.N.W. of the low point of wind N.w. i c
Beechey Island. W^c found much difficulty in getting the sledge along amongst '^''"- "•
the hununocks, but on a smooth floe she went very easily. Fixed the small Hag
on a hunmiock, and at midnight fired a rocket.

Second Journey.
Saturday, April 23d. — Noon, prepared breakfast ; 2, packed sledge, and went
to the north to look for a lead, sending two hands inshore for the same purpose.
Found one which took us more to the westward, through which we were working
till 4 P.M., when J perceived a large floe N.K. of us, about half a mile distant.
Cleared a road to it and got the sledge there by 5.30, when we made directly
for C!ape Bowden. About 7 crossed the tracks of Conunander's sledges on
their outward journey ; they had apparently been going across the channel.
Soon afterwards came to Harxey's tracks, Avhich we Ibllowcd as far as the
hununocks ; not being able to get through them, went round to the west, taking
every lead towards the Cape ; 8, stopped to lunch ; 8.20, went on until eleven,
when we came to some very heavy hununocks, (juite impassable for the sledge.
On looking round I found we must go more to the westward, but being then
not more than 3 or 4 miles from the land, and thinking that the (.'ommander winj. n.w
might pass down inshore during the night, I encamped, fi.xing our flag on a ''''""■• "•
conspicuous hummock. At midnight fired a rocket.

TuniD Joi UNEY.

Sunday, April 2 1th. — 2, packed sledge and proceeded to the N.W. After
an hour's working through hummocks, we came to a floe, which took us 6 or 7
miles in the direction of Cape Bowden. At 6 cleared a ridge of hummocks and
followed the track of Conunander's sledges for some time to the northward,
when, coming to a lead, again made inshore. Here I saw the track of Ilervey's
sledge, and followed it as far as we could with any degree of safety. At mid-
night, seeing that we could get no farther with the sledge, and not being more
than five miles from the Cape, I encamped, intending to walk on shore with the
dep6t in the morning. Placed the flag on a hummock, and fired a rocket.

Fourth Journey.

Monday, April 25th. — At 3.30 took with me three men to carry the depot
cases, and started for Cape Bowden. Found the ice towards the Cape not
nearly so bad as I had expected it to be, as it consisted principally t)f floes. On
arriving at the Cape, found that Conunander Pullen had been there on the 23d,
and had left for the ship. Buried the depot, lef\ a record of our visit, and
returned. 8.30, arrived at the tent, had coffee, and proceeded for Cape l)e
Haven, over pretty good floe, with occasional ridges of hununocks.

Tuesday, April 2()th. — At 2 a.m. came to a ri<lge of humniocks, beyond
which there was an old Hoe extending to the northward and xvestward as fhr m'i ^^..^^^ nnw i b
we could .see, with luunniocks in it 20 or 30 feet high, but looking smoother to iLr. 9." '
the westward. Encamped.

2 c.

Wi;,,l N.W. 3 b. 0.

. 1^

Wind N.N.W. 3 b. c.
TbcT. I'.'.

Wind N.N.W
Thor. S.

Wind N.S.W.
Th«r. 5.

3. li. c.

-ib.

:| I.

Wind N.N.W, 3 b. c.
Tlier. 4.

1311

WindN.W. I c.

Ther. 0.

138

Fifth Journey.
1 P.M. — Piepart'd LtiiiKfast; 3.30, packi-d sledge and started to thenortaward,
keeping to the eastward of the old Hoe. G(K)d travelling ^or the first four miles,
afler this we had to work through hummocks. In the ujrection of Cti De
Haven no floe was to l)e seen. Continued working through hummoC'<i' until
midniglit, when the men being much jaded with the heavy day's dragging, I
cnciinipcd. Found on unpacixing the sledge that the small axe had been pitched
off, and lost anumg the hummocks.

Sixth Journbt.

Wedn ' ' . , 27th. — At 1 i*.m. prepared breakfast, and at 4 packed sledge
and went ahead with pickaxe and shovel to clear a road inshore for about half a
mile, (rot sledge through and proceeded to the northward, over old floes and
huniiuocky ice. At (), stopped to lunch, afterwards cleared a ridge of hummocks,
and came to a good floe, over which we went direct for the Cape. At midnight
caught a lemming almut three or tour miles from the shore ; a little ailerw ards
encamjx'd, with the Cape De Haven distant seven or eight miles, the floe towanls
it hununocky.

SkVENTH Joi'RNKY.

Thursday 29th. — 1.30 P.M. prepared breakfast; just before preparing to start,
the dogs made off at full sjK-ed to the south, and were soon out of sight. Packed
the sledge and went on, thinking tlu'y would soon return when they saw us
moving. As they did not do so, I stopped the sledge when she had gone about
a mile, and returned .ith a hand to our encampment. From a large liunnnock
I had u good view all around, but no dogs were to be seen. After waiting there
a short time, we returned to the sledge ; the men there had seen the dogs ahead,
running about as if looking for us. To see if they would come if we remained
quiet, pitched the tent and rtmiiiicd inside till lunch time. As they did not
re-appear, went on towards Caix; De Haven, at nine, over some rough ice. The
dogs were much missed. The n»eu said they were as good as two men. Friday
29th, 1.30, encamped.

KiGHTH Journey.

1 P.M. — Prepared breakfast. 4, packed sle«ige and went on. 7 p.m. came to
sledge tracks, which, we followed in to the point, and arrived nt the deiM')t at
Cape De Haven at 9 p-m. Had lunch and (fug out the depot. Found a notice
left by Commander Pulien on the 19th of April, on his return from Capo
Becher, stating that despatches had been left for Sir K. Belcher at Points
Phillips and Becher; and the following account of the ice to the northward:
" Found the travelling throughout very heavy and dangerous on the west side
" of tlie islands, from so much open water and rotten ice; in many places not
" more than an inch thick, and covereu with a thin coat of snow, through which
'• himself and Mr. .\lston broke through." Unloaded the sledge, got her on
shore, and encamped. Brought depot down to the tent.

Ninth Journey.
.Saturday 30th. — 2 p.m. had breakfast. Took from dcpAt 2.')lbs. of biscuit
to complete our allowance, and "ifjlbs. of plain pemican for the dogs, in ca.se they
should riturn ; buried the remainder, together with a five days' dep<")t for our
own return journey, leaving a papt r reporting proceedings. Oot the sledge out
on the floe and re-loaded. At 3, just as we were starting, on looking up, 1 saw
the two dogs smelling round our encampment. They were imniediutely secured
and tianu>M(! to tlie .--ledge. -Vs the l)itcli was not t(> be seen, we cor-chided
she iia(l '.i-en killed l.y a bear, as there were numerous bears' tracks along the
coasi. Went onwards across the bay, and when about half way to the Cape saw
a smooth Hoe inshore, and made for it. 8, perceived a cairn with a stiiH'in the
centre, on the extreme point. 9, landed, and found j .ipers li'ft there by Com-
mander I'lillen, Messrs. Penny and (iood^ir. Lunched, placed a paper in the
cairn, ami proceeded for a low point, going clo.se to the shore, in the track of
Conunander's sledges. Midnight, encamped four or five miles from the low
point.

Tkntii Jouunkv.

Sunday May 'st. — "> r..M. had i)reakfast. 3, p.ac'Kcd sledge (uid went on.
Weather very war'n. 4.30, arrived oil' the low point. Landed, and placed a

139

i)r our
■ic out

I saw
((•{•iirctl
-eluded
iig tlie
ipc saw
"in the

C'om-
■ ill the
ark of
10 low

TBI- in a small heap of s'lingle. From this point first saw Baillic Hamilton
and. 8.30, lunched, 10, observing a mark south of the Cape, S.E. of Cape
Phillips, landed and found a whale-boat left by Captain Penny. Near her we
found marks of a recent encampment, evidently Commander Pullcn's, and the
skull of a young walrus, which, as there was a quantity of flesh about it, made
an excellent supper for the dogs. On leaving this bay, it becar-ie foggy with c»im o. . s.
snow, and there was a peculiar glare, so that we could not see where wc were
treading. Persevered for an hour, however, when the weat!ier getting no better,
and the floe worse, I encamped at 1).30 ; the men very tired. W<, were about
three miles from Cape Phillips.

Eleventh Jodhnev.

Monday 2nd. — 1.30. prepared breakfast. 4, proceeded for Cape Phillips. 6, f^»in» o- "• •"•
arrived at the Cape and dug up despatches. Found there a note left by Com-
mander Pullen, for the officer commanding " Assistance's " party. To this my
attention is directed in my orders. The following is an extract ; — " As we have
" not l)cen able to get her i the ship ) off yet, it is very probable that no party
" from her will be here on the 10th of May. You therefore deposit your
" des[)atches, and they shall be sent for as soon as possible. One party will
" leave when I return for Cape Decher. They will also have tlie letters brought
" over by ' All)ert,' from Port Leopold, as well as a few more papers from
" England. Travelling has been heavy, and on the west side dangerous, from
" many holes of water, and much rotten ice seen ; of course getting worse
" daily." From this I concluded that the only course for me to pursue was to
push on to Cape Becher, in order to be there on the 11th; and to go to the
eastward of the islands. I then took a hand with me, and went to the top of
the iiill, to look at the state of the ice. The weather was so misty that we
could p.ot see distinctly more than four or five miles ; to that distance the floe
looked level. When we returned, I collected all the clothes that we should not
reciuire, now the weather was warmer, placed them in two bags, and buried them
witii tlie despatches ; and left a paper, stating that I had gone to Cape Becher,
to the eastward of the islands, and that I would rail here on my return for any
dcspitches from Sir E. Belcher. We then lunehed, and at 9-30 left the Cape,
making direct for the Eastern Cape of Baillie Hamilton Island. Tiie floe was
very good for the first four miles; beyond that we came to several ridges of c«im o. o. m. Tnor.
hummocks, which increased in size an() number as we neared the island. At * *■
2.30 encamped seven or eight miles from the eastern extreme of land.

Twelfth Jouuney.

Tuesday 3'd. — 2 p.m. prepared breakfast, and mended mocassins. 6, packed
and jiroceeded onwards for t'.ie Cape. 8.30 came to some very heavy ridges of
hummocks. Went along their edge to the eastward, till we came to a snow
di it't, of which we took advantage, and crossed them with some difficulty. After
p.is>iiig these heavy hunmiocl.s, I was much struck with the difi'erencc in the
appeai-ar ce of the ice, from any we had yet seen. Betv.'cen the hummocks,
whicli were heavy and numerous, the ice hail the appearance of recently frozen
slu'lge, and searcely any snow on it. We contmucd working through the
hummocks imtil !).30, when I perceivi^l a black crack ahead, and on coming up
to it, (bund it was a recent one. It ran in an E.S.E. and easterly direction
from ll\e S.E. part of the island, and was fourteen inches wide. Stopped the
sledge to examine it. In tlie spaces where it was sheltered from the sun, the
young iee had formed two inches thick, but in the open places I could place
a shovel through it. I then took (Irinsted with me, ancl Wi'.lked along the
crack tor nearly a mile, when it continued the same breadth, and the ice near it
sludg\. To make certain that it was not occasioned by the hummocks grounding,
I souiided with a bag of bullets, and found no bottom at twenty-five ialhoms.
Taking the state of the iee liere, ii, eoniK'xion with Coimnaniler Pullen's
accounts of that on the otlur side the islands, I had no ..oubt that the mIioIc of
the ice to the northward was adrift, and that the first stitfsoutherly breeze would
drive it olf. Being unpro\ided with a boat of any sort, so that if the ice
moved off six feet it would cut off my retreat to Cape Phillips, and probably
from the eastern shores too, I came to the conclusion that the only prudent
course to adopt was to return to Cape Phillips, from wliencc i if the ice liroke
up ) I could take l)oat across, and if not, 1 should bo still at one of the places

140

named in my orders for meeting the " Assistance's "party on the 11th.
thought that if Sir K. Uclchcr wintered on the S.W, shore, he would send

Wind W.N. W .i o. in.
Th«r. « ».

Wiiul W.N.W.
Tlur. -2.

Wiiiil N.W. j 111. n.

Norllurly, 1 h. i

WiiiJ \.W. 1 1'.

TI.IT. 'J.

Cnim O b.

+ IJ.

. Tin

Whi.nv.

•■ TKr.

K. W. ;! b. c. V

W.S.W. '.li. c.

■1 (). Ill,

r..l 11.

+ i;.

Wintirlv,

W M. rlv
■lUr. +■

■I'lu

i C. IJ.

■init!.' llv, I b. c.

\V,.irrlv,
Tl.c. \^ .

K. V.'. i b. >-.
Tl.ir. + 10.

I also
a

[)arty to Cape rhillipii, rather than cross the channel, though the distance might
)C greater. There were numerous recent bears' tracks on each side of the crack.
We were now alwut on the parallel of the south extreme of the island, and three
or four miles to the eastward of it ; but there l)cing no sun, I could not take
bearings. At 10.30 I again returned towards Cape rhillips, keeping on our
outward track.

Wediiesda)- 4th. — 2 encamped about a mi'c to the southward of our

cncanipnicnt of the previous day.

TmilTKENTII JorBNKY.

1 I'.M. — Prepared breakfast. .l.IJO, packed sle(3gc, and proceeded for Cape
Phillips on our former track. After clearing the hunmiocks, made sail for the
first time, and it helped us along nicely. 8.;W, lunched. 10, arrived at Cape
I'liillili.-i, and encamped about a hundred yards S.E. of the cairn. Cast the dogs
adrift.

At Cape Phillips.

Thursday .'ith. — Noon, prepared breakfast. Henmined in the tent the greater
part of the day mending clothes and mocassins. A great deal of snowdrilt.

Friday (hh. — At G a.m. we were roused by hearing the dogs in lull cry, and
going outside saw 'hem all after a bear. We were too late for a shot, for, by
the time the guns were loaded, he was half a mile off. W*; followed him, how-
ever, keeping behind the hummocks as well as we could, for two or three miles,
but seeing there was no cliance of getting nearer, and being scantily clothed,
Ti-'t lulled, and were at the tent again by nine o'clock, where wc found breakfast
ready. The dogs returned soon after. After lunch I went nmnd to the N.W.
to liiok for the party. Seeing nothing, I went inshore over the low land, where
there were se\ eral tracks of ptarmigan. Returned, at 9 P.M.

Silt unlay 7th. — Noon, had breakfast. 6 p.m., walked round to the low land
to the southward, where I again saw tracks of ptarmigan and one of a hare.
Returned to the tent at «)• The dogs followed us when wc left for a short
dist:ince, and then went off to the southward by tliemseUes, and were away
nearly twelve hours. When they returned, I tied the bitch up and kept her fast
until we left.

Sunday f^th. — Noon, cleared tent and swept out. Had breakfast. 2, read
prayers. As I was walking about outside 1 saw something black on the ice. On
going out to it found it to be an old seal or i'eniale wjilrus and her young one,
and there were two more a little to the northwa.'d. Tills hole apne-ared to have
been opened by a lx;ar. After lunch, I walked round to the N.W. to look for
the party.

^Ioll(^ly 0. — Noon, breakfasted. Did not go far away from the tent to-day
owing to the weather. Towards midnight it cleared up, but there wr.s still some
drift.

Tuesday lOth. — After breakfast walked inshore to the southward to look for
game. In the e\eniiig went round to the N.\\'. for three or four miks to look
i'or the party. It was misty to the N.W., tlioiij;li clear in e\ery other direction,
and we could sei nothing. Ueturning along the land I shot a brace of ptarmigan.
Arrived at the lent 11 r.M.

WediHsday 11th. — Noon, had breakfast. In the evening went round to the
N.^^'. to look i'or the party. Could see but a short distance owing to the mist
and drift.

Thursday 12th. — After breakfast walked inshore to the southward. About
two miles iVom the beach we saw four reindeer lying on the face of a hill. One
of them was a last year's fawn. We endeavoured to double on them, but owing
to their jiosition could not keep out of their sight, and they made off when I was
four or tive hundred yards from them. I fired three or four shots witli the
Millie ritie with the ti\e hundred yard sight without effecv. We I'ollowed them
for a mile or two, but, getting no nearer, returned to the tent. After lunch,
walked inshore to the toj) of the hill N.W. of Cape Phillips. Had again a bad
view, hut as far as we could see (ten or twelve miles) there was no apjK'aruncc
(.>f aii\ j).iit\', and the iee looked (inn to the wistward.

b c:> in^iiiL

iniitiTiiCii, rciTiuH

iCil

.i:> iiiut 111111^, \fiii i:\

tent. Alter luuch ijcnt two hands round to the N.W. to look for the party.

141

Satarday 14th. — After brcakftiHt, went to look for the rlccr, but saw nothing N.w.4b.o.
of them, iuthoujj[h it appeared from tracks that they had visited the place since © K"e«mpmn>i, R. T
wc were here before. Afterwards walked round to the N.W. to look for tlie party. iBmi.^V'^wyE!' ''

Sunday 15th. — Noon, breakfasted. After lunch, went with two hands to ^,- '!•''"•"•*?",''' ^■
the N.W. beyond the two bluff capes. At a distance of alnnit six miles from ' ''"""•'■ '^'^
the tent we came to a sloping point, from the high land behind which wc had a w.n.w. «<.•
good view of the channel. I could sec the land to the N.K. and Haring and
Stewart Islands to the westward. The last appeared much more to the east-
ward than it is laid down in the chart. There was a bluff cape about a mile to
the westward ; Iwyond, the coast trended apparently to the S.W., Ibrming a
deep bay. Nothing was seen of any party. The ice looked firm as lar as we
could sec.

Monday l6th. — Returned to the c at 1..30, having shot a ptarmigan on the
low land. Had supper, nud made 1 .lown that t should leave for the ship in the
evening.

FlIlST JoLRNEV, ReTURNINQ.

4 P.M. — Breakfasted. Placed the papers, &c. I had with mc in the emp*j
depot case, and buried them with the despatches, leaving a paper stating that I
had been waiting here from the 4th to the I6th for the purp<..^e of conmmni-
cating with Sir K. Belcher's party. Packed the sledge, and at 5..'K), alter a good
look round to the northward, left the cape, going along inshore. At 7.45
landed in Abandon Bay, and began to clear out the boat to examine her con-
dition. We had nearly cleared her when we found a cylinder of papers, one left
by Connnandor PuUen, and the remainder by Captain Penny. Tlie former stated
that the boat had been already examined by him ; I therei'orc placed the things
iu her again and buried her up. At 9-30, went on for Cape De Haven. 11.30,
lunched.

Tuesday 17th. — 2.30 a.m., encamped near our former encampment of the Ist wimi ,aiiaM«& iigiit
and -Jd.

SixoND Journey, Returning.

4 ^.^r. — Packed sledge, and proceeded along the coast for Captain Penny's
cairn. Round Cape Manning the travelling was very heavy, owing to tiie softness
of the snow between the lunnmoeks. At a quarter to seven, on looking at the
chronometer, I found it had stopped, but from what cause I could not imagine,
as it had not run down and the case was not cold. It went on again direttly
I gave it a turn. As it was going before we entered the lunnmoeks, it could
not have stopped more than half an hour. 9-30, lunched. Went on ibr Cape
De Haven. 11.30, arrived at the cape, and encamped on the floe. Went on
Bhore and dug out depot.

Tiuun Journey, Rktukninq.
Wednesday 13th. — 1 p.m., breakfasted. Took an account of the provisions
remaining, intending to leave as much as possible at this depot, in tlie event of
anotlicr party being (K'spatched in this direction. I refilled the bread case, and
left in addition one depot ease containing: — Biscuit, 25ll)s. ; bacon, Gjlbs. ;
chocolate paste, two lib. tins ; sugar for ditto, five paper parcels of 1.'^ oz. each ;
potatoes, one bag containing libs. '2oz. ; tea and sugar, mixed, five parcels.

N. Westerly, !.

5.45. ii.in.

i mile N.W. C. Mnii-
iiin;;; C i'liillips n.
:1,',° 5' Low Point, II.
47° !!«■■. W.! C. B-«-
iliMi, s. m^ 'j'2' V.
Oslicini. 11. 6;)' 41' t.

\\ incl Soutlicrly, 2 m.s.

containing each, tea l^oz.

•2.',oz. ;

bau

agar 'J:/t7..; m a uag. peninuean 14ll)s. ; suit,
one case of '2lbs. ; and a tin eontalning 12lbs. of fat for fuel. Buried the
depot, and left a paper. At "j.^O, went on to the S.S.E. Tor about three miles
the travelling was very heav}-; the snow belween the hunnuocks being so soft
we s.uik to the knee at nearly every step. About 7-30, however, we came to a
fine lead, which we contliuied in all day. Occasionally we e.-.:'.>c to a narrow
ridge of lunnmoeks, but had not unieh difliculty in getting through. No land
was seen duri.ig the latter part ol" the journey, but by walking 1 ead to wind, and
being guided b\' the lunnmoeks, we made a pretty straight couiaC.
Thur.silay 19th. — 2 a.m. laicamped.

Fourth Jolunev, Rictuuning.
4 P.M. — Prepared breakfast .'),.30. Went on direct for Cape Spencer. Floe
geneniliy good, but obstructed oeeasionally by ridges of huiniiioei<s. 11 p.m.,
kmched. Midniglit — came to an dd hummoeky Hoc oft' Cap^
went on over it.

Friday 20lh. — 2 a.m., encamped on the old floe.

S 3

Wiml South, -2 f. sleet.

Bowdcn, and ^''po. "• k-;

Soutlie-

r, )i.iii.

0 Kiicampintnt, C,

O^lu.iiui..., K.jI'uLle

i:.; c.

C.llm, (1, 1>. c.
li.iiO. u.m

■'

■: !

■\l

149

3 .hnMmpuKiit, C.
Oiborn, n. D" E. i
T»til« Clip,, I.. Ill' ii'
E. t Smaliiliitn, II. 5(1°
•»' K. I C. Howdvn,
n. 6(H 41/ K. i I'.
8p»iiofr, «. :i'.i' in' |;.(
Ii. i\ iivtchty Uliind, i.
46°47'K. If. lloth.m.
f. SU" 4S' W.

Calm o.

t.9 p.m.

Q Kncwnpinent, C.
llolh«ni,<. li^'iti' W.i
Suit UN lli'uchrjr li-
laod, >. 30" It;' i:. I
Low I'oint, n. .'18' 1:1'
E.i C. Bowilin, II. lj°
S4' K, i Ki. riglit, n.
130 8:I'K. i i:i. left, II.

Fifth Joi'RNRy, Returning.

4 P.M. — Packed lOcdgc and proceeded for Cape Spencer. For the first two
miles, tru veiling over the old floe between the huniniocks. ()n lea\'ing this floe
we came to some heavy rlugcs; after crossing them came to a large ncK, which
appeared to extend as far south as Point Innis, and as far to the westward
as 1 could sec.

Saturday 2lst. — 0.30., encamped alxnit three miles N.N.W. from Point Innis.
Sixth Jouknkv, Rk.ti'k.nino.

No. in. — Prepared breakfast. 2, packed sledge, and proceeded for Point
Innis. 3.'M), landed there afU'r some difficulty, and went along the shore
towards Cape S|)eneer. About 5, cleared all the hummocks, and lunched.
6..30, rounded the spit, and arrived alongside at 7, when I found " Furv" had
arrived the day after we had lost her.

Remauks.

The travelling throughout was heavy, hut nuich of the difficulty I exjurionccd
on my outward jouniey might have iK'en avoided by taking the same route I did
returning — that is, a straight course to Cape De Haven. I was principally kept
from doing so by a desire to avoid the hununoeky old Hoe oft Capi' Bowdcn,
which Icwked very formidable, but I found returning that the travelling over it
was very good.

The dogs were of little use amongst huiiunocks, but on ii Hoe two were about
equal to one man. We had not much provisions tor them, so were obliged to
give them some of our penimican. They had about three-tjuarters of a pound
each daily, when we could iftbrd it.

The scale of victualling was very lilK-ral, and gave great satisfaction. Owing
to the dogs we were short of peminicar. wlicii we ivtunud to Cape De Haven.
To make up for it 1 took instead seven tins of soup, two of which were
returned.

The following is a list of Provisions now encaehe at Cape De Ibueii : —

Pennnican

- 1

case, and 14 lbs. of currants.

Hiscuit

1 cast> of .")(') lbs.

Soup

[G tins of Forttmin and Mason's.
\'2 lib. tins of giiivy.

Salt -

- 3lbs., 1 full case, and 1 ullage.

In a potato case soldered up : —

Biscuit

- 25lbs.

Hacon -

- 6 lbs. 4 oz.

Chocolate

■J

l)s. in two 1 lb. tins.

Sugar for (

litto - - 6.

oz. in five parcels.

Potatoes -

. 4"

bs. 2 oz. in a bag.

Tea -

Sugar

. - . . 61
- Ii

:i '■ [mixed, in five parcels.

In a tin soldered up: —

Fat for fuel - - - 12 lbs.

(Signed)

W. H. SHi-.i.L.\nEAU, Second Master

No. 5.

Proceedings of "North Star" up to 21tli August, 1S5:!, and particulars of the
melancliuly Loss of Lieutenant Billot, ot tin.- Frendi Iiii|ieria] Xavy, and

evidence ol'tlie men.

UePOUT of I'RorKF.DI.NfiS.

Commander Pl-m.kn to Cuptain Sir E. Rrn.niKu, C.B.

II. M.S. " North Star," ]5eechey Island,
Sir, Augiist 21, 18,">;3.

I. Commander Inglefield having vesteniay iiifornied me lliat it is; his intention
to leave us soon as the despatchr^ can ]K)^silil\ 1k' got reads', 1 hasten to close
my proceedings in a condensed form up to this thy, IbrwaVding to their Lord-

,!.:„-. .. i' __

31111.13 it *-^i'j '^1 LI'*-'

lu^i uur \iiLii .111 ui'spaU'iHs ivei'iveu, and every

document likely to advance the service in which we are engaged.

143

2. I forwarded on the 12th instant, by Lieutenant BeilAt, the French otiiccr
of the " Phnpnix," who had vohmtriTcd to conduct a party with despatches oa
to voiir ship, full accounts of my ])r(K'cedings since leaving you ; but unhappily,
and which it is my melancholy duty to inform you, in the execution of which,
by II sudden and unforesivn disruption of the ice in Wellington Channel, he has
lost his life. The four men who accompanied him returned to the ship, two on
the 2()th imd the remaining two on the 2 1st, worn out with fatigue and exhaustion.
Their depositions were immediately taken, a copy ( f which I enclose, oidy remarking
that up to this time and during their trying work they have done their duty well,
and speak of Lieutenant BellAt, although of a different nation, as an officer that
they would gladly follow as their leader. All here felt his loss most acutely;
he was well known to us when in the " I'rince Albert," and I consider it a most
fortunate thing his volunteerirg to lead the party ; for the only officer I had was
away with Captain Inglefield, niyscU' and Mr. Shellal)ear only having returned
the previous night. I gave him no orders, merely a letter of remarks for his
guidance (see Knclosuie), considering his experience sufficient under any circum-
stances. 1 therefore teel his loss most paintully, for he w.is u good and worthy
yoimg man, a credit to his profession, and although a foreigner, has shown such
zciil and energy in the cause we are engaged in, that I should feel myself
honoured in being associated with him in any way.

[]. On the 21st inst., at ten minutes after midnight, the ice in the bay began
to drive out at a rapid rate,, taking us with it; the inshore piece, however,
happily received a check by which wc lield on, and have since maintained our
position off Northumberland House. The " I'hopnix" and transport were also
observed setting out of the 'lay and off from Cape Ililoy, where they had l)een
discharging provisions ; the wind at the time was light from the eastward. At
2.15 A.M. of that morning both vessels got so far to the westward, and outside
Beechey Island, that we lost sight of them from our I'eck. At 3.30 the steamer
alone was seen again coming to the eastward under steam, but was soon checked
by a large floe-piece. I therefore concluded she had left the transport in a safe
position, perhaps in Union Bay, which was clear. At noon she signalized
" Transport is lost," and we could sec from our masthead that the steamer herself
was coniplete'y surrounded with heavy ice, and their saws at work as if endea-
vouring to cut a dock. In the evening the ice cased off, when she reached Cape
Riley, took up a position, and commenced discharging. The next morning the
ice still opening, enabled her to reach the fast ice in this bay (wind northerly at
the time).

4. I have discharged all my crew who wished to leave, also those unfit for
Arctic service, togetlier with Mr. .MH'onuick, surgeon, and Alston, mate, who
were desirous of returning to England.

T). An officer and two men were st'iit, on the return of the first two men, to
relieve the others and also examine the state of the ice in Wellington Channel,
&c., to see if it was practical)le by boat or otherwise to communicate with you
— look-outs also from the top of the island have been kept ; and such is their
reports that not only myself but Captain Inglefield consider it imprudent to
detach any more parties to endeavour to communicate.

6. I ha\e accpiaiiited Conimatuler Inglefield with all your orders, wishes, and
intentions, taking from liiiii every available article of provision, tivc. for travelling
he '-oiild spare, and necessary for the expedition under your command.

7 Krom the long contimuiiu'e of li. and S.K. winds packing the ic? so much
to the westward and on tiiese slioris, that I fear the " Intrepid" will be very late,
if able to reach at all. I (aniuit \enture an opinion on the season at present,
merely noting that it is a late one, and ver)- different from last year. I confi-
dently expect, and am prepared for, being driven out of this the first strong N.W.
wind ; however, I hope to be able to return again, even if so, prior to your
arrival ; and considering all these eircuinstances, — a ship being here from
Lngland, the lateness of the season, \:c., your opinion respecting this as a winter
quarters C(>inei(ling wilii my own from actual experience, — I shall, if you are not
here by the 1st of September, if jH)ssible remove to Gascoine Inlet.

8. I herewith enclose the copy of a notice set adrift on the 1st of August, and
in conclusion regret to say, that lia\ ing only so lately returned from travelling,
and time being so short, I am iiiia!)le at present to forward a separate leport as

rciiucbieu oy you rel

itnu

tw tliv

-IraiiiJiiig and recovery of the ship,
SI

y:' '

m I

.114

9. TliriL' of the imnonhi- Iiitc Lieiitcimnt IliHot's parfylmvc nlsocxchanKod
into till- " IMinMiix," so that wi- havo now almost a new ship's coiniJun y. I faniuit
wondrr at so many li-avlni!; ; tor thi sfvort' ;mil hi'a\y work that has iailrii to
tlu-m, lioui the position in wliieli tin- shin was unlortunati'ly placctl, and the
actual necessity «)t' bein^ olilij^etl to keep tliem so continuously at it, induces me
to think tliat, if I may so say it, they are cowed, and (head the thouj;hts
of another winter. Had it not U-en for the ^ood example shown liy the execu-
tive olliiers, I hardly think we should have kept them ui) to the mark. I eaimot
refrain from hriiis^in;^ to your faNourahle notice Mr. Klliott, the clerk in chari;e,
whose duties, from every document comiectcd with the expedition, passmg
throuifh this sliip. and having? to Ik- co]>ied, have not only been liea\y, hut so
continuous, that he has U-cn most unremittingly einploycil.

I haw, Sec.

W. J. S. Pri.i.KN, Conuuander.

Document (copy) set adrift thischiy enclosed report from Wellinj^ton Cliannel,
just received (noon) from the sinnnnt of Heechey Island, is favourable to tlic
speed V arrival of Sir K. Iklcln i and liis ships.

W. J. S. P.

Set iitloat tVom H.M.S. " Xorth Star" lyini; in Krebus and Terror Rav,
Beechev Island, on the 1st of August IH.'MJ: — The ice otdy opened out sufficiently
this* day. The " North Star" wa< driven on sliDre by ice and a lieavy S.E. mile last
Scptcml)er, and onl\ ijot off attain on the .SOth .)une, by ciittinj;, lilastmij, and
clearinjf a space in ihe ice to heave her into. No intelligence yet of Sir K.
Belcher in the Wcllinf^ton Channel. The "Resolute" and her tender the
•' Intrepid" arc at Dealy isle, Mi'lville Island ; a party arri\i-d iiere from the
former on the 'MMh M\ la-t with the inteliiitenc^of the " Investif^ator" being
in Mercy Bay, Barini^ Island, Hi" miles fnmi tlu- " Hesolute's" uresent winter
quarters. Baring Island is newly discovered land, a continuation of naiiks's Land.
The " Investitratt>r" has Wen there since SeptemiKT H.")l ; if not able to get
through into Barrow Straits thi'-. season she is ti) In- a!)an(h)Med, and all iiands
come on to " Itesolnte." A party is now away from the ship on another \isit to
Cape Becher for intelligence. .\ny person picking this up, it is reijui'sti'd it
may be forwarded to the Secretary of the Admiralty, Lon(h)n, with the (hitc
when, and where found. — " .Ml well."

(Signed) W. .1. S. Bii.i.kn, Commander.

Another cask was set adrift with this; and last September, one with two
bottles, each containing a notice.

Conuuander 1'li.i.k.n to Lieutenant Bki.i.ot.

Her Maiestv's Ship " Nortii Star,"
Dear Sir, l'2t\\ August is.-):?.

YoL' liaving so gallantly \'ohmteer('d to lead the party I propose x'uding on to
Captain Sir K. Belcher, I gladly avail myself of the oH'er; and as lime is short
and of conse<iiienci', I do not enter fully into detail, nurcK giving you a few
remarks and a light eipiijiMient. You are alr'.'ady ac(piainted with my vie\vs as
to the probable >pot in which you will find the " Assistance ;" and Point II>)garth
being a principal point of rendezvous, make for it as speedily as jjossible,
ke('i)ing ;is nmeh as you can the eastern shores on board, as I know it is Sir
Kdward's intention to travel this way if he cannot get on with the .ship; it is
therefore uncertain wlun he will lea\c.

There is nothing within a reasonable distance of the shore to prevent a light
sledge getting on ; keep a sharp look-out, and I hardly think he can pass you.
You have one of llaikett's large boats, I have tln'refore no fear for your
success, for the ice is still heavy in Wellington Cliiuuiel, and I hardly think it
will breals Dili this nionth ; at all events, >lii)ulil you .^ee any signs to suppose
such likely to happen, make for the shore, and use your own discretion as to
udsaiice or retreat. The boat will track will inslioi'c. Ca|)tain Iiiglefield, it is
p()s>ilile, may cross you, but it can be only well to the northward; howe\er,
Khoiild such be the ease, I advise your going on together, mure especially should
he lia\c hi- large boat.

Provisions are encaelie at I'oint Bowdcn and Point I!e.sc\ie, but I trust you
will reach the " Assistance" before you arc out, and she will beapi)roaching you.

145

Pray show this to lM)fh Sir F.dwnrd and Ciiptuin Inglcfidd. Wishing you God
■pci'd and every siiccesH,

I retnnin, Ac.
To Lieutenant BellAt. W. J, S. Plllen.

ExTiiACT from Sir E. Helchcr's orders.

It h prolmhlc that the " A^isifitunce" will l)eator near Cupe Rcehcr during the
month of August, tlierefore uny despateiies wliich may arrive are to l)e forwarded
to meet tlie ship by tiie east side of tiie Wellington Channel, calling at Point
Hogarth, which will he a prineinal rendezvous ; at all events, as the distanee on
the present position where the snip may l)c ieehound, is not more than four days,
cnsy march, the officer tihould Ik.- instructed and provisioned to move on, and
connnunicate with me. Indeed this duty nuist l)e nnperative, as the final (leter-
niination of my movements nmst depend on the co-operation of the external
division, should it he found necessary to abandon the vessel next season.

I led the ships well to the eastward of Dundas Isle, and the ice breaking
away fast, therelore I think you will meet them well advanced towards us.

W , J. S. PUI,I.EN.

Statemknt of William Hahvkv, Boatswain's Mate H.M.S. "North Star."

Lkj-t the ship on Friday night, 12th August 1853, and encamped about three
miles from Cape Innis.

Second Journey. — Encamped alM)ut three miles this side of Cape Bowdcn on
broke'i ice.

Third Jc\irney. — Alter leaving Cape Bowdcn on Sunday night, we passed a
creek alraut four feet wide miming across the channel ; we were then about three
miles oft' shore. Atter crossing this creek kept on up channel.

On Ix-'ing asked as to the state of the ice, replied no doubts Avcrc entertained
as to their safety, and Mr. Bellot expressed a wish to get up to a cape which he
said was Grinnell, cheering on the men, saying he wished to get inshore to
encamp, assisting with his track Ml himself. On arriving at the open water off
Cape (irinnell (query), Mr. Bell6t tried twice to land in the India-nd)ber boat,
but in consecjuence of a strong breeze from the S.E. could not succeed. William
Harvey, boatswain's mate, and William Madden, A.B., then both got into the
boat and reached the shore, taking a line with them for a hauling line each way.
By this means three loads were landed from the sledge, and the men on the ice
were hauling the boat oft' a fourth time when Madden, who was up to his middle
in the water with the hauling line in his hand, hailed Mr. Bellot to say the ice
was on the move, driving up and oft' shore. Mr. Bellot told him to let go the
line, which he did ; those remaining on the ice with Mr. Bellot then ran the boat
up to windward on the sledge, but the ice being so fast in motion that, before
they could reach the wished-for point, it had drifted ccnisiderably oft" the shore.
I now went (m the high land to watch, and saw them drifting up the channel and
oft' the land. I watched in tiiis position for six hours, but lost sight of them
after two hours. When I last saw tiicm the men were standing by the sledge,
and Mr. Bellot on tlie top of a hummock. They appeared to be on good solid
ice — wind at the time from S.E., blowing hard and snowing. After waiting for
six hours, commenced 01 r return (all open water in the channel at this time),
walked round (Jriffin Bay with a little provisions, and reached Cape Bowdcn, where
we remained fo take some rest. We had not been there long when Madden
called me and said two men were coim'ng. I jumped up immediately and hailed
them, asking where Mr. Bellot was; they replied that he was gone. On coming
up to us llook said Mr. Bellot was drowned. I asked him if he was sure he
was. He said he was almost sure, becinisc he saw his stick in the water, and
could not see him ; after this we made the best of our way or board, leaving
them there.

Q.
A.

William MAnniix, A.B., corroborates the above.

Did you think tlie ice was dangerous?
I certainly did, Sir.

ear of breaking through or breaking ofT the land ?

Yes

Why; for

Both, Sir.

Q. Did \ou mention your fears to anv one ?
A. No, Sir.

lil

116

[lie uIro Htatc!) that thcv muitt Imvc Ik-cii dril'tcd buck, und got on shore uctf
the Muiiie place as the ii'Tiufnt happened.]

St'ATKMiiNT of William Joiinron, A.U., who wuh on the ice with Lieut. liellAt.

Wk n<)t tlie provi.'^ioiis on Mhore on W'liliiesdny ( l"lli) ; utter we had di)ne
that, tliere n luuiiied on tlie iee David lloolv, A.IJ., f .ieutenaiit Ueiiot, and myself,
having with us the i«led, nmeintosii awning, and little lioat; eoinnieneed trying
to draw the liont and xlcd to tiie southwarcl, but foiitKl the ie(* driving >o fast,
lotl the (tied and took the bout oidy, but tlie wind wus so Htrong at the time
that it blew the l»oat over and over. Wi- then t(K)k the bout with uh under
shelter of a pieee of ice, und Mr. Hellot and ourselves conmieneed euttitig ao
ice house with our kniven for shelter. .Mr. Hellot sat forhulf un hour in ccnivcr-
fiation with us, talking of the danger of our position. I told him I was not
afraid, and that the .\merieun expedition was driven up and down this chamicl
by tlie ice. He replied, " 1 know they were; and when the Lord protects ua,
iH)t u hair o'our heads shall be touched." I then asked Mr. Hellrtt what time it
was. He SI. id " ;\bout atpiurter past M a.m." ( Thursday iHth ', and then lushed
up his Ih)oI^, and said he would go und sec how the icT wus driving. He hud
only Iktu gone about four minutes when 1 went round the same hununoek
under which nm- were sheltered to look lor him; could not .see him; and on
returning Iwuk again to our shelter, saw his utiek «m the opposite side of a crack,
ftlM)Ut tive fathoms wide, and the ice all breaking up. I then called out " Mr.
Bellot!" but no answer (at this time bh)wing very heavy), .\fter thin I again
searched round, but could siv imthing of him. I fK'lievc that when he got Irom
the shelter the wind blew him into the ciack, and his south-wester In-ing tied
down, he could not rise. Finding tlxrewas no hojH! of again seeing Lieutenant
Bellot, I said to H(H)k, " I'm not at ; I know the Lord will always sustain us."
We commenced travelling to try to get to C'api' l)e Haven or I'oint Phillips, and
when we gt)t within two miles of (/upe l)e Hav en, could not get on shore, and
returned again for this side, endeavouring to get to the -outhward, as the ice
was driving to the northward. We were that night and the following day in
coming across, and came into the land on the eastern shore a long way to the
northward of the place where we wen* driven otf". We got into the land ut what
Lieutenant Hellot told us was I'oint Hognrth ((piery).

Q. How did you get on shore ?

A. In drilling up the straits towards the Polar Sea, saw an iccheiv
lying close to the shpre, and found it on the ground ; succeeded in getting on it
and remained for six hours. I said to David Hook, " Don't be ufnud ; we must
make a boat of a piece of ice ;" accordingly we got on to a piece passing, and I
had a paddle belonging to the India-rublx'r lx)at. [On being aske(l what became
of the India-rubber twat, replied it was left where Lieutenant lUliot was lost.]
By this piece of drift-ice we managed to reach the shore, und then proceeded to
where the accident happened : reached it on Friday ; could not Hnd our ship-
mates or any provisior . Went on for Cape Bowden, and reached it on Friday
night: found Ilurvc and Madden there. They told us they were going on to
the ship with the mail bag. We rested that night in a miserable state, and in the
morning got some bread and pcmmican out of the cache, and after we hud refreshe<l
ourselves proceeded for the ship.

Q. Whot sort of travelling was it ?

A. Very indifl'erent with resjK-ct to water on the flm*. States that they were
saying it would be better travelling in the middle of the channel, and Mr. Bell«»t
hearing this, said it was Captain I'ulkn's orders to keep close to the starboard
shore ( generally keeping within two miles >.

Q. Had any of you any fears on your way up?

A. No, not any of us.

Q. Do you think Mr. Bellot was afraid?

A. No, Sir ; he was a good officer.

Danu) Hook, A.B., corrolwrates the statement of Johrsnn.

Q. What sort ol' travelling had you (ui your way up

A. Very bud, so nuu'li deep water on the ice.

Q. Did you i'tel alarmed on y<Hir way up';

A. No, nf)t ii: tiie k;i-t afraid; I was very u,Iii(l I was going.

Q. Do vou tiiiuk vou could have found a better route?

A. No, Sir.

147

Q. 1)o you think ffirre i^ any hoiw of I.ieiitennnt BrllAt'H J)cing iilivc?

A. N«), Sir, I am miri' Uv ciniiiot hr; I'orwIuMi wi- iiiis«n'd hini, we could see the
■hon* iliNtnnt then alnxit tour niilcH.

William JoluiHon, A.M., fiirthiT Htatrs, Tjciitcnunt ]\v]\()t iimdr a rcinnrk to
him Ik Mhort tiino iH-t'oir ]\v v/i\* lo^t, Maying, nothing miulo him n.orc hnppy tlinn
to think he wuh not on whore, tor knowini^ hi-* duty nn iin olHccr, hf would sec
the lus«t danger; adding, he would rather die here than l>c on nhorc to be Havcd.

Connuiuuler Pci.i.kn'h Uemurks.
I think I may |K)»iitively Nuy that I can place every confidence in these ^tatc-
nicntx, |)articulurly JohnsonV, who, I am happy to siiv, not only dcH'ft \\\h duty
well, hut in n niorul and giKxl man. 'I'he distances which I have placed queries
against, I consider they are mistaken in, which cannot he wondered at, from their
anxiety, fatigue, and working tor their lives; tor the distance lK>tween I'oint
Hogarth and CajH" Howden is too great for any man to travel in so short a space
ot tinje. Their going across tli< channel to I)e Haven I do not (U)uht, for that
place they knew well, having lurii there hetore ; and close to it they knew there
was my cache of provisions.

W. J. S. PuixKN, Commander

Skcretahv of thk Admiralty to Commander Piu.kn.

Sir,

I iiAVK received and laid In-tore mv F-ords Commissioners of the A(lnu"r:\lty,
the despatches which you forwarded Uy H.M.S. " Pliopnix," detailing the pro-
ceedings of H.M.S. " North Star," under your ronuiiand, up to the '.^4th August
last.

My Lords have read with much interest t-e report of these proceedings, of
which they entirely approve, as also of yor exertions when the " North Star "
took the ground oi\ the ice setting into the bay and I'o ing that ship on to the
shingle; and my Lords desire to convey to you the e> i.-ession of their satisiuc-
tion at your conduct, and that of the officers, seamen av.d marines of the " North
Star " on that trying occasion.

It is scarcely necessmy for my Lord? .> sure you that t>> intelligence of
the melancholy death of Lieut. Bell6t, ' lios conduct and example has ever
l)ct'n l)eyond praise, has Ix-en received by tneir Lordships with deep regret.

I am, &c.
(Signed) W. A. H. Hamilton.

XI.

Orders to, and I'rococMlinjfs of, Commander IltMiry Trollope, Her
Majesty's Discovery Ship " Rattlesnake."

No. I.

Hy the Commissioners ".r <'xecuting the Office of Lord High Admiral

of the United KiKf^tiimi of Great Britain and Ireland, iScc.

WiiKRKAs it is necessary to replenish Her Majesty's Sloop " Plover," now in
position at Point Barrow, Behring Strait, with stores and provisions, ns well for
the future supply of th";t vessel, as tor the purpose of meeting the wants of the
crews of the " Knterjinse " and " Investigator," should those ships be driven
b:u'k upon Behrinr Strait, or should circumstances have rendered it imperatively
necessary for the crews t<i aban<lon them, a coarse stated by Connnaiidci
M'Ciurc (in a letter, dated -JOth .Inly 18.'j(), to ("nptnin Kellett) '"he might be
" compelled to adopt after the winter of lH.52, by proceeding in the spring of
" lH.").'i t()(|uit his vessel with sledges and boats, and make the best of his way to
" Ponds Bay, Leopold Harbour, the Mackenzie Biver, or for whalers, according
" to circumstances."

With the view, therelbre, of conveying assistance to the ships at Behring
Strait, wc have appropriated the " Ilattlesnake " for this service, and wc have
appointed you to tlie command of that ship, v.'itli ;i full rcliiince on your
acipiuintanc'c with all that is necessary for carrying out the same, and on your
personal knowledge of the coast on which you arc to be employed. In furtherance

lil

1 !

1 I

of this object you are hereby required and directed to put to sea no soon as the
" Uuttlesiiuke shall be in all respects reudy, and to use every exertion to be
off Cape Lisburne, Behring Strait, ut as eorly a period of this year as possible.
In order to aid you in this purpose a steamer will be directed to tow you clear of the
choiuiel, and you will atlcr watering, if necessary, at Madeira, Teneriffc, or
Cape de Verdes, proceed direct to Cape Virgins, on the eastern side of the
Strait of Magellan, where a steamer will meet you from Rear-Admiral Hen-
derson's squadron, and will tow you through the Straits, and as much further
on your voyage as circumstances will admit. You will then proceed to Valparaiso
and replenish with provisions and other stores, and from thence continue your
voyage to Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands; and, having taken on board
whatever may be required, especially potatoes and other vegetables for your
own ship, as well as the *' Plover," you will, without any unnecessary d«May at
that port, proceed direct for Clarence Harbour in order to ascertain if any party
or later intelligence from the " Plover " shall have arrived there ; and failing this,
you will use your best endeavours to proceed with the " llattlesnake" to Cape
Lisburne, where you will probably meet with the officer and boat's crew of the
" Plover," which Commander Maguirc in his letter to the Secretary of the
Admiralty, No. 38, of the 20th August last, states will be at that point on the
1.5th July 185.3.

You will deliver to this officer the accompanying despatch for Commander
Maguire, and of which you have a copy, together with a copy of your own
onlers, and supplying him with what his boat can carry, and may most desire,
making sure of your return with the '' Rattlesnake" to Grantley Harbour, Port
Clarence, l)eforc the season of 1 8.')3 is too tar achanced.

Your ship is in all respects fitted and provided for the service upon which you
ore employed, and you are well acquainted with all that is necessary on such
occasions for the health of those under your unlers, and fi . the .security of Her
Majesty's ship. You will employ your people, as far as is practicable in the
winter months, in the preparations necessary for vvcry operation in the spring,
or so sooi' • the opening of the ice will admit of carrying supplies toConmiandcr
Ma^v.-. J, or to other jwints, as circumstances may determine.

You will take every means of lca\in;jr projx-r records of your condition and
intended proceedings, and of the positions where you may have deposited
provisions; taking as your guide for the distinctive mark of such records, the
instructions contained in par. 7 of our orders to Sir E. Belcher, and Sir E.
Belcher's direction in his letter to the Lords of the Admiralty of "jgth May
1R.')2, in furtherance of these orders. And you will also convey every informa-
tion to us by the whale ships which pass through the Strait on their return to
the respective coimtries to which they belong. You are not to confine your com-
munications to one ship alone, but by every opportunity to keep us ini'ormed
of every circumstance connected with your own ship, and also the " Plover."

In the summer of 1854 a vessel will be despatched from the Pacific squadron
to commiinicatc »vith Clarence Harbour at as early a period as possible, and by
that means you will receive instructions as to your future proceedings, which
mav depend on the information which may reach Knglar.d fn)m Sir Kdward
Belcher, or from the western coast ; but siiould, I'roin any uulbreseen circum-
stance, no vessel be able to reach Clarence Harbour, it is our wish that before
the close of the season of 1854 you should deposit your spare provisions and
stores, with a boat, at yoar winter i|uarters, and then proceed to Honolulu, and
there wait our iiuther orders ; and in anticipation of such departure it would
appear to be necessary, that during the winter of ls5;i, and spring of 1854, you
should construct a house at Clarence Harbour capable of containing about 70
persons, and made as complete as circumstances will admit, for thv shelter of
any of Captain Collinson's expedition, should they have left tlieii ships, either
in bouts, or by land, a'^d fall back upon that place.

It will be advisable in the spring of 1854 to forward travelling parties
tov.anls tlieiiortheni shore, for the purpo>^e of inquirinj: wliotlur iiny thing can be
traced of Captain Collinson's party, or of any men from the "Plover;" and as
you ill iTceive consi(ler:il)le assistance in this olijcit lioni tlu' Indians whose
bcltlenicnts arc in the vicinity of your winler ijuartcrs, you are to cultivate their
jrnod feelings by every means in your power, and to take care t.lmt no cause of
otieiice be given to them ; and fiir all supplies of provisions which their hunting
parties may procure, you are always to pay in a liberal and proper manner.

You are supplied with all documents and papers connected with the various

149

• Polar searches, and in closing these orders, wc have to express our confidence
in your ability, and to leave you to act in such manner as will Lest fulfil our
intentions. *.-..>;>:.

Given under our hands this Qth February 1853,
' (Signed) J. II. G. Graham.

•'■ Hyde Pah KER.

M. F. F. Berkelkt.
To Henry Trollopc, Esq., ■ m "-

Commander of H.M.S. " Rattlesnake," '' •

at Portsmouth.
By Command of their Lordships,

W. A. B. Hamilton.

■ i*

. No. 2.

Sir, Admirulty, February 15th 1853.

I AM commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to signify
their direction to you to use your discretion as to quitting your present quarters
after the receipt of this, and endeavouring to secure the " Plover" for the winter
in Grantley Ilurbour ; but should you deem it prudent to remain where you are
for the ensuing winter, uiy Lords desire you will use your utmost endeavours,
as soon as the season will permit in 1854, to reach the winter quarters of the
" Rattlesnake" in Grantley Harbour, so as to effect a junction with that ship in
time to make the necessary exchanges between the two crews, and receive the
needful supplies before the " Rattlesnake " shall have been compelled to quit
Behring Strait in the autumn of 1854, on her return to this country.

2. In the c\ cut of your remaining this winter in Moore Harbour, you are to
employ yourself in depositing all the supplies you can spare for the relief of any
party that might reach that neighbourhood from Captam Collinson's, or Com-
mander M'Clure's ship. You will also extend your parties right and left along
the shore, and in such direction as may be advisable, as far as may be prudent,
in order to deposit notices of your proceedings and intentions, and of the store
of supplies left at Moore Harbour.

3. Before quitting Moore Harbour you will erect such house or place of shelter
for any arriving party as your means will permit, and even if you should be unable
to move the " Plover" round to Grantley Harbour, you and your people are at
all events to make good your retreat to the quarters to be provided in that
harbour by Commander Trollope.

4. For directions as to the course to be adopted in depositing notices of your
intentions, and of the supplies left in Moore Harbour, their Lordships refer you to
thcii instructions to Sir Edward Bck her, and to the further remarks on that sub-
ject contained in Sir Edward Belcher's letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty,
of the 29th May last, from Whale Fish Islands.

I have, &c.

W. A. B. Hamilton.
Commander Maguire,

H. M. Discovery Ship " Plover,"
Moore Harbour, I'oint Barrow;

or to any ollicers of the " Plover,"

at Cape Lisbume.

No. 3.

RePOUTINO PnOCEEDINClS.

Commander Tkollope to the Skcretauy of the Admiralty, London.

Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake,"
Porto Grande, St. Vincent, Cape dc Verdes,
Sir, !5th March 1853.

I iiEo to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, that llcr Majesty's sloop " Rattlesnake," under my command, arrived

T 3

!•;

150

Here this morning, the 15tli instant, and that I hope to sail to-morrow for the
Straits of Magellan and Valparaiso. Her Majesty's steam sloop " Basilisk"
left us in latitude 49° 38' N., and longitude 5° 13' W. ; the hawser carried away
twice in towing, and as there was considerable sea when we parted company,
Captain Egerton did not think it desirable that boats should be risked in trans-
ferring them. I have therefore had them surveyed, and taken on charge as
junk.

2. I am glad to say that all on board are well, and that the ship is tolerably
tight ; one of the scuttles on the lower deck still leaks, and some of the slops
have been wet, but not materially damaged. I hope the means taken by our
carpenters, now that we arc able to get to the outside, will remedy this delect ;
the main deck ports have also been much inconvenience to us from not having
been properly caulked ; but this also will be remedied, I hope.

3. I found here six French, two Austrians, one Dane, and two Portuguese,
all having brought coal from Swansea, and not one English vessel in the bay.

4. We have l)cen able to get five or six days* fresh beef and some fruit. As
there is a considerable swell in the bay, and much surf on the shore, I have
thought it right to obtain water by purchase in preference to exposing our o\vn
men, and risking any injury to the tmats ; the expense of whicn I hope their
Lordships will not object to.

5. I beg leave to enclose a state and condition of this ship.

I have, &c.

Henuv Tkollope, Commander.

No 4.

tiailed from Eddrslonc
February S4th 1823.

nga out

Commander Trollope to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

Reporting Proceedings.

H.M.S. " Rattlesnake," Port Gallant,

Straits of Magalhaen, 14th May 1853.
Sir, (Received lOth July.)

1. I BEG leave to inform you that Her Majesty's ship " Rattlesnake" arrived
here on the lOth instant in seventy-five days from England. On the 15th

ccBti'isl^ Rjuaiori March wc arrived at St. Vincent, Cape dc Vcrdcs, where wc completed our
40 lo Migaihten watcr, and procured six days' fresh beef and vegetables ; sailed on the following
a™,t.,7Sd.j.>p«. j^^y^ crossed the line in 21° .-^O' West on the .30th March. (On the 27th
of March we exchanged numbers with Her Majestv's sloop "Cygnet" in
20° 4.3' West and r II' North.) Passed r. rrocn Trinidad and Martin Vas
Rocks on the 9th April, and made Cape Virj;:n>, l)caring west fifteen miles, on
Tuesday 10th May at 10 a.m., soon after which we had the satisfaction of
seeing Her Majesty's steam sloop " Vixen " coming out of the straits ; oft' Dunge-
ness she took us in tow, and brought us to an author under Mount Aymond
in Possession Bay, at 6 p.m. ; we had all plain sail sot and a fresh breeze, the
wind abeam; she towed us 8.^, 9, and 10 knots an hour; on the following day
she towed us through the narrows with very little wind, in fact the whole day
was calm and beautiful, more like s})ring in Engliind tliun a winter's day in
these regions with the hills covered with snow.

2. At 6 P.M. we were abreast of the Chilian settlement at Sandy Point ; the
steamer cast us off to pick up an anchorage for the night, and we stood In under
topsa' . jib, and spanker. Tlie water siumled very suddenly from 3(1 to 10,
and then .') fathoms in three casts of the lead, and in roiuiding-to, just as we let
go the anchor, the ship tailed on a bank and iiiing in less than -J'l iiitlioins. As
the tide was failing wc did not attempt to heave her oil' U)r two or tlirc- hours,
when, with the aid of a hawser from the " ^'ixen," and tlie eheerful assistance of
Captain Barnard, we iiove her off. As tlie bottom was sol'l and the water per-
fectly smooth, I consider she has not sustained tlie slightest damage; in fact she
was so quiet Miat v.'e hardly knew she was on shore.

3. Tlie height of the land and tlie deepness of tiie v.atcr deceived mc or I
Bhould not have gone so close in.

4. llitlierto tlie woatlicr has ))i>en beautiful, and we have been faxoured in
every way by fulling in with the steamer and with such weather as is rarely

ound in these straits.

151

5. I regret to say that I have been obliged to apply to Captain Barnard for a
survey on two men, John Smith, ice-quartermaster, and William Wilson, A.B.,
who are quite unable to endure the climate ; indeed their lives would be endan
gercd by remaining here. We have also several men in the sick list, who, I fear,
will not be available for duty for several weeks ; the cases are not severe ones,
but it diminishes our strength considerably. On reporting this to Captain
Barnard he has permitted six men to volunteer from his ship, and he has also
allowed us to retain a supernumerary marine who was ordered a passage to
rejoin the "Trident" until the sanction of the Commander-in-Chief can be
obtained.

6. Captain Barnard brought down 800 lbs. of pumpkins, which he had the
consideration to retain for our use. I have ordered them to be issued in addition to
the established allowance, as we have now been eighty days at sea, in consider-
ation also of our being short handed, and the nature of the climate, and the
additional work entailed upon the men, I have ordered an extra allowance of
cocoa and a quarter of a pound of preserved meat and biscuit to be issued as a
morning meal before turning the hands up, both of which I trust their Lordships
will approve of.

7. In conclusion, I have only to express my hope that we may be enabled to
proceed on our destination, and that nothing will be wanting on our parts to
endeavour to carry out their Lordships' orders to the fullest extent.

I have, &c.

Henry Trollope, Conunander.

The "Vixen" hud been waiting our arrival in the entiunce of the strait since
the 17th April. Cape Virgins itself is an exceedingly difficult and dangerous
place to mamtain a station, and consequently bad for a rendezvous ; but Posses-
sion Pay under Mount Avniond is a sheltered anchorage, easy to approach and
also I J leave. A vessel also with the following bearings lies out of the strength
of the tide and hi moderate water : —

16 fathoms,

coarse

sand.

Mount Aymond W. by N. i N., Magnetic.
Mount Dmero Bluff, E. by N. i N. „

Highest part of Bluff abreast,
N.W. A W.
About seven miles from the land.

i|il

H. T.

No. 5.

Commander Trollope to the Secretary of the Admiralty, London.

H, M. S. " Rattlesnake," Valparaiso,
31st May 1853.
Sir, (Received 18th July.)

As the packet starts for Panama to-morrow, I beg leave to forward duplicates
of my letters to you from Magalhaen's Straits, and also my letter to Admiral
Moresby, reporting proceedings up to the arrival of the " Rattlesnake ' at Val-
paraiso on the 31st May 1853. I trust we shall leave this on Jauirday 4th June
for the Sandwich Islands and Behring Straits,

I have, &c.

Henry Trollope, Commander.

Commander Trollope to Rear-Admiral Fairfax Moresby, C.B., &c.

H, M. S. " Rattlesnalce," Valparaiso,
Sir, ■ 3 1 St May 1853.

I VE(i leave to acquaint you that H. M. S. " Rattlesnake " arrived here on the
31st May. I enclose a copy of my letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty,
reporting proceedings up to our fulling in with II. M. steam sloop "Vixen" off
Cape Vn-gins on the lOtli May, and arrival at Port (lallaut on 13th May.

During our passage thron|;h the Straits of Magalhaen wc anchored seven
times : in Possession l?ay, under Mount A yiiiond, on May the 10th ; off the
Chileno Scttloiiv^nt at l'ii!!t;i Aro'.ui on tlie lltli ; !it St., Niohnlns Rnv on the
12th ; at Port Gallant on the 13th ; at Boija Bay on the 14th ; Half- Port Bay
on the 15th.

T 4

On the night of the l6th we were in tow of the " Vixen" in Sea Reach, with
t strong breeze and hcnvy rolling sea, wearing several times, and on the morning
of the 17>h, the wind still increasing, we anchored in the Harbour of Mercy;
on the 18lh it moderated, and the "Vixen" again took us in tow past Cape
PiUnr and twenty-five miles to the westward. As' there was still a heavy rolling
swell wc did not attempt to communicate, but we have every reason to express
our grateful thanks to Captain Barnard and the " Vixen for the able and
cheerful assistance aflTordcd us.

Until we arrived at San Nicholas Bay the weather continued calm and favour*
able for towing; but after that strong westerly and N.W. gales, with sleet and
snow, were prevalent ; nevertheless, the " Vixen" towed us admirably — far better
than could have been expected, more particularly in Sea llcacfa, where there was
a heavy sea in addition to contend agamst.

We were fortunate in meeting an easterly wind, which gave us a good offing.
Wc stood W.S.W. (west true) until we got into 80" west, where a falling
barometer warned us of a change, a!id a furious gale came on from N.W. The
onl V indication of the change was the barometer ; for although it was cloudy
with rain, no one anticipated wind. I feel sure this may Ix; adduced as an
instance of the benefit arising from watching this invaluable instrument ; between
5.3° and 40° we had a succession of westerly gales, with almost constant rain
and sleet.

In 40° S. and 77° W., the wind came S.W., gradually hauling round to S.E.,
with which wc made Valparaiso Point at 7 a.m. this day, Iwaring E. by S.

In the straits wc met the " Otter " screw steamer of 286 tons, and 225
horse power, Ixjlonging to the Hudson Bay Company, bound to Vancouver's
Island. She left Plymouth on the 4th February, three weeks before us ; but
had l)een to the Falkland Islands for water, and arrived in the straits on the 2d
May. She had been wooding and watering, and coaling also, from a supply
that some one, I believe a merchant at Buenos Ayrcs or Monte Video, had leil
at Port Famine.

The only vessel we spoke was an A merican ship, the " John Shcpperd "
from New York to California ; she had sprung a leak, and l)ore up to go through
the Straits of Magalhaen, instead of round the Horn. Captain Barnard sup-
plied him with a chart and sailing directions, as he had none of his own. He
anchored in company witli us under Mount Ayniond, on the 10th, after which
we saw nothing more of him.

I beg leave to enclose a copy
ship.

of the log, and a state and conditi' a of the

have, &c.
Henuv

Trollope, Commander.
The " Vixen" had been waiting our arrival in the entrance of the Straits since
the 17th April. Cape Virgins itself is an exceedingly ditlicult and dangerous

J (lace to maintain a station, and consequently bad for a rendezvous; but
Possession IJay, under Mount Ayniond, is a sheltered anchwrage, easy to
approach, and also to leave. A vessel also with the following bearings lies out
of the strength of the tide, and in rao<lernte water : —

Mount Aymond, W. by N. \ N., Magnetic.
Mount DiiKTo Blurt", E. bv N. \ N. „
Highest part of Bluff abreast,
N.U\ i W.
About seven miles fron the land.

16 fathoms,
coa^HC
sau'l.

No. 6.

Commander Tiiollope to the Sec uetahv ok the Admiraltv, London.

Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake," Honolulu,
Oahu, 25th July 1S53.
Sir, (Received 21th Octolwr.)

I DEO leave to enclose herewith a copy of my letter to Rear- Admiral Moresby,
C.B., detailing my proceedings in Her Majesty's sloop " Rattlesnake," since
leaving Valparaiso, and also a state and condition of tlic ship.

I have, &c.

Kenhy TaoLLoi'E, Commander.

IfiS

Reporting Proceedinob. .,"? ■«

.1 1. . .. ■ , ,

Commander Tbolloi'k to Rear- Admiral Fairfax Mobesby, C.B. &c.,
Commander-in-Chief.

Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake,"
Sir, Honolulu, Oahu, 25tli July 1853.

1. I HAVE the honour to inform you that Her Majesty's sloop " Rattlesnake"
■irivcd here on the 22d July, in 43 days from Valparaiso ; we sighted the
islands of St. Anihrose and St. Felix on the 13th of June, and crossed the
Equator in 1 1.")" W. ; lost the trade in T 30' N., and 118M5' W., on the 6th ;
got the N.E. trade in 1.3° .'iO' N., 120° W., on the 10th ; sighted Mowcc at
sunset on the 21st, and anchored in the outer roads here ;»* 2 p.m. on the 22d.
Her Majesty's ship " Amphitrite" sailed on the l6th of June. Capt. Frederick
proposes remaining at Port Clarence until the end of August ; I therefore trust
we shall fall in with her.

2. We have taken on l>oard here lour bullocks, twenty pigs, four thousand
pounds of flour, and three thousand pounds of potatoes, which will complete us
to full allowance for two years of bread and meat ; but it will, doubtless, last
for a longer pe:iod from th" savings, and also from occasional supplies of fresh
meat which w;; may obtain from tlic natives. Although I could liave wished to
have had nvjre of these necessary articles, I believe we have as much as we
can with siu'ety stov ; ol' other provisions we have a much larger supply.

3. In consideration of the length of time wc have been on salt provisions, and
the shortiiess of our sta}', I liave caused double the usual allowance of vege-
tables to be issued to the ship's company while we remain.

4. Considering it probable that cash might be useful in making purchases
from the American whale ships, I have directed the paymaster to draw a bill on
the Accountant-Cieneral for 6r)/., or 3(M) dollars, in addition to that drawn at
Valparaiso, for the above purpose, agreeably to chapter 3, article .3, and page
70 of the Paymaster's Instructions ; which I hope will meet their Lordsliips'
approval.

."). Not having Ix-en supplied with any linseed oil with the twill cloth for o\ cr-
coats, and only 32 gallon.; lieing allowed as two years' allowance for painting
the ship, I have purchased 28 gallons of linseed oil for painting the coats.

6. We >iiil to-day for Port Clarence, passing through the Amoutka passage,
and 1 hope and tmst we shall fall in with Capt. Frederick on or about the 20th
of August.

7. Small-pox has l)een, and indeed still is, prevalent here ; I have therefore
endeavoured to communicate as little as possible ; the deaths have been many,
but chiefly among the natives who have not been vaccinated.

8. I enclose a sGite and condition of the ship, and

Have, &c.

Henuy TuoLi-opE, Commandor.

No. 7.

UkI'OUTIM. t'uoCEEniNdS.

II. .M.S. " Rattlesnake," Port Clarence, 1st September 1853.
Sir, (Received l6th Ueceml)er.)

I HE(J to uccjuaint you, for the information of my Lords, that Her Majesty's
sl(K)p " Rattlesnake ' arrived at Port Chuence on Monday, 22nd August, in
twenty-sevc . lays from Honolulu. We lost the trade on August 3r(l, in 33° 30'
north, and l()3" 24' west; ent red the fog.- on the llth, in 40'' .30' and l69\ but
were notwithstanding fortunar in getting observation- '!/ day before wc passed
the Aleutians, whicli we did Ih.'! ween Scgonam and /;• itka ( Hjth \ugiist\
without seeing the hurl. Aitiioiigli tiie ship's coiinc was not j)..,riciilarly
influenced by it, and there is said to be no race in this channel, I never saw
such tt confused tumbling sea, with appearance of overiails, &-• . '. washed one
of the gangways away, and broke on lu)ard us several times. 1 he togs still
continued, with strong westerly breezes ; we found we could not weather the
Prib\loff Isles, and therelbre passed between St. George and St. Paul's. The

1S4

.. ,; , f.

i J* 'i

chtinnd is broad iiiul free from danger, but reefs extend off the .soiitli-eiist end of
St. Fiml's, and a boilinj!; surf breaks on the long low level island called Morjovi
or Morse Isle. From the appearance of the water, I should say no ship ought
to approach nnnecessarily within five miles. We sigh.cd Cape flod.iey at sun-
set on the :'.\ K and on the following morning had tin satisfaction of seeing Her
i>IujcstvV .Slo.,h" Plover " coming In )m (i rant lev; she iiad just parted company
with tfer Maj ty's Ship " Amphitrite," and was en her way to Poin; Harrow.
Captain Maguii' pulled out to us, and arranged thiu we should l)oth anciiov under
Pomt Spencer, and transfer the provisions and stores (of which I enclose the
lists). \Ve hful two bullocks and sixteen pigs for him, tiie former were killed
and would give Iresh meat for her crew, tor eleven or twelve days ; but of the
pigs thev would only lake four, in addition to f'-.Mt otlicis received from the
Amphitrite." '^he was, in fact, terribly crowdeci. i-'ive of our men volunteered
for her, and fi.c from her were transferred to (!;! " .\;v,phitritc," no rliai she has
left with her CI w in good health; and I believe uur irrival. t)esi(ics ;ii(! good
things ve broti^^ht them, cheered them up in a iiiuniw^ and Ui a d' '.ti i that is
better !.lt than ilescrilKMl.

2. The "Plover" sailed nt 3 .v.M. on \Vedne,.,i.'ty, •J'h'u August, w*;!' a nice
breeze from S.I! , which contiimo 1 for full thirty-.i •: hours afterwards, so that I
have no doubt sli, ^-.nt througii riie strait^, and as •. iic is only three days later in
starting than she Wib. last yan; '. viiticipute tiiut her arrival at Point Banow will
Ix; equally favouiaWc.

3. After st^iung another din at Point Spmcer to collect diii'^ wik 1 for * adding
the house, we went ur^ to Gran' ley iiailKur, ;ind conmiencci! -ightening to
ennlile ■'■r to vnter tiic narrow and soi:!"wlri! intriCKte chupue'. ; in (loi>ig which
we have areat rearan io thank Captain Fredciick and the " , > ,;;phitrite " for their
uirut ch«t rful and valuable assist.mce.

i. I ])r'>jK)8e to leave Grantley HarlK)ur about the uiichlle of July, and then
lo si, i ihc Hv !ici.Heen Asia and America, as far as we can go with safety ; and
U) !k' oif ky Cupe, Wainwright Inlet, or Point I'Vanklin, as the case may lie, and
I'V .ic detciiiiine, about the tir>t week in August, there to look out tor the
" rk'i^er," and return with her to Port Clariin e. This course has been agreed
upon with (, ;i))tain Miiguire, and will, I trust, meet their Lordships' approval, as
the most likely to be of service to the cause. No lienefit would l)e derived from
our l)eii)g off the coast of America until Au.'.'ust, it not being possible that the
" Plover" could leave Point Harrow before tijat time, and the sooner we have
some change after lieiiig released from winter nnarters, the better it will be for
the health and spirits of the men ; and we nia> jx-rhaps do some good or obtain
some information by skirting the pack ; besides the " I'lover's " condition not
l)eing particularly good, if an\ thing hapj)ened to her we should be able to find
our wiiy to Point Barrow, and receive her crew.

."). On our tailing in with the " Plover," or receiving her crew, I proposed
returning t'- Port ('larence to meet the vessel their Lordships' orders give me
to understand will be despatched from Admiral Moresby's siiuadron ; or, in the
event ot'our not receiving further orders, to deposit our spare provisions in the
house, and profev'd \o Honolulu.

6. Since writing the above, I have twice, without success, attempted to take
the ship into Grantley Harbour. After soimding and buoying the channel, and
finding, as we thought, 1" feet and 16 feet (i inches throughout, we weighed
with the wind at I'i.N.K., but took the ground in the narrowest part ; the tide
ebbing an hour afterwards left us with only 14 feet, although wi' hud 17 feet
and li) fw't witiiin a ship's length. Wv laid two anchors out usteiii, but could
not start her an inch, therefore commencid lightening her. .\i\vr faking about
80 tons out, iKing favoured with remarkably fine and calm weather, on the
following day, after hsiving ben 20 hours im shore, we hove her of^' without
difficulty; in flict, i'rom the taut strain there was upon the hawsers, she went off
almost of her own accord. 'I'lie bottom is so* 'law tlu'refbrc she sustained no
damage, but 1 do not think it advisable to tii'
Harlnmr ; we might indeed lighten her mi
dainaginn the stores and dry jjrovisions, whi' i
In fa • ided as we were h\ the " Ai 'i^ri'

weat' / was most anxious alniut it
inti;^' .- , and the bottom evidently gc, ■
carry a line of soundings of 1 7 feet m, nut

•iiipof this class into(i'rantli v

".re, but with great risk of

necessarily he much exposed.

iioats, and during iifin^inally fine

channel is extremely narrow and

.■^08, so that it might be possi' !o to

m go over the same ground and

155

have 15. 14, and even 13 feet; and if a ship gets on shore in the passage, and a
Houth-westcrly wind romes on, t'ne sen gets up so rapidly that the consequence
might be serious, 'i'iim" is u ciTtaiii risk of having the ship in Port Clarence
vhen the ice breaks up, t)ut as far as I cai judge, not so great but that it may
be encountered. On Thursday, the 1st September, we made a fresh attempt,
using greater caution than before, warping in with hawsers both ahead and astern,
but although under peculiarly favourable circumstances, from a southerly- wind
having raised the water considerablv, we again stuck fast, and were obliged to
haul her off. I have now determined not to attempt it again, and I can only
hope that the result will prove that I have not judged improperly.

7. In the event of their Lordships' recpiiring the " Rattlesnake" to return to
the northward from Honolulu, or to remain here during the winter of 1854 and
1 855, I beg leave to enclose demands for provisions and stores for another
twelvemonth, dating from November 1854.

8. I enclose a state and condition of this ship.

I have. Sec.

Henry Tbollope, Commander.

:: i!i

No. 8.

Her Majesty's Sloop " Rattlesnake,"
Sir, Port Clarence, 11th September 1853.

1 . I BEf) to enclose a copy of my letter sent by Her Majesty's ship " Am-
phitrite" on the 4th instant.

2. The " Koh-i Noor," a small schooner of 1.35 tons, (Jeorge Lcvine, master,
from Hong-Kong, is on her return to that port ; and I take the opportunity of
writing, although I ha\e nothing to add but that we are watering, wooding, and
preparing for the winter.

'.\. The " Koli-i-Noor" is trading for skins and walrus teeth ; she left Kong-
Kong on the 27th of May and arrived here on the 2d of August, whence she
proceeded to the coast of Asia, but does not appear to have gone farther than
Kolintchin or Hurney's Island; the supercargo, Mr. Gustav Overbeck, told me
that he found the natives had papers in French and Russian addressed to any
shipwrecked persons, desiring them to write their state and condition on the
back, when the papers would be forwarded to the Russian ports, and measures
taken to assist and relieve them ; he did not make an exact copy, but this was
the purport, and it a|)pears so far satisfactory, as proving that even in this remote
(piarter steps have been taken by the Russian Government for assisting our
missing countrymen ; and as this has been accidentally proved in this port, the
most distant from the Russian head-quarters, it may be inferred that similar
measures have been taken more to the west.

4. Mr. Levine reports having seen or fallen in with twenty-tive sail of whalers.
Whales, walrus, and seal in the utmost abundance. He had some very fine
specimens of tusks some the pair weighing 20 lbs., while the average is 5 to 10
and 12 lbs. Altogether he seemed to think a profitable \()yage had been made,
and they would double the original outlay.

5. The ice ajipears to have prevented their further advance, as it seems to
have been his wish to have gone up to Herald's Island ; but his reports arc
vague in this respect, and he had not paid much attention to his position.

(>. The " Koh-i-Noor," or some similar \essel, is to leave Hong-Kong in
Mav 1H54, and renew the voyage they have made this year, and he speaks (,f
coiiiiiii, to Port Spencer with su))plies of potatoes, pigs, cVc. for the whalers.
I iDcrtion this as it may be convenient to their Lordships to know that such
means of conuuuiiication exist. Mr. Levine tells me that he informed the
senior oHici- at Hong-Kong that he wa.s roming here and offered to bring any-
thing for C'- ,)taiu Collinson's ships.

I have, &c.

Henry Trollope Oonmiander.
U 2 " ""'""' '

On ffoinp; on Iwanl thi' " Koli-i-Noor," I found thiit Mr. OvitIktIl had made
n oopv of tlu" I'rcni'Ii part of thi- pu|H'r alliidid to in my Ictti-r.
12th Scptt'nil)er lHr);».

Hy. Troi.i^oi'K.

Messieurs les Ktrangers,

Li:h croiseurs ni'ont donnes hi connaissunee de votre naufraf;e pros du cote
de I'Knipire llusse, c'est puiirquoi je vous prie de in'avcrtir en eerivant Mur Ic
papier.

i)e (juelle pavs etes-vous ? Quel est le hiit de votre eroisiere sur la nier
u:liiciale?

De (piel nioyen jx-nsez-vous rcvenir a votre patrie ? ct nc fout-il pas pour
vous (]uel(iue reeours ?

Sredne, Kolvniark,

Ic 2ic Mara 18.J3.

(SifTiU') FkIIDI.NAM) ClIMIKIIWSSKIKV.

No. <).
Skchktahv of Till-: Ahmikai.tv to Commander MACii'iRK.

Sir, Kitli January 1851.

I AM conuniuidod l)y my Lords ( 'onmiissioners of the Admiralty to acknow-
ledge tiie reecipt of your letter of the 1st of September last, detailing your
|)roceediiiu:s, and to ae()uaiiit you that they have the entire approval of my liOrds,
wild eonsider that praise is due to you for \our active exertions, by which you
made ijood your passaj^e to I'ort Clarence iK^fore the seas<m closed.

I am, iVc.

W. A. l\. Hamilton.
Conunander 'rrollo|)c,

H.M. I>iseoverv Slooj) " Rattlesnake,"
Port Clarence, Behring Straits.

XII.

Report on the Procee(lin«js of I lor Miijcstv's Ship " Aiuphitritc,'

Captain Frederick.

No. !.

RKroHT OK PhO( KKDI.NCirf.

Captain KKKncnuK to the Ski hktakv ok riii: Aomikai.tv, London.

II.NLS. " nmphitriie," San Prancisco,
3 1 St October, IH.'iS.
Sir, (Ueceived HJtli December.)

I. I iiAvi; the honour to acquaint you that I sailed from Honolulu in Her
Majesty's >i)i|» under my conunand on tiie Kith June.

•„'. It v.as my intention to have passed througii tiie Aleutiai\ Chain by the
Amouphla (Jhanne! ; but tiie wind headed us otl", and on the 2Mth we made the
islands of the Pour Mountains. 'I'liese islands are very remarkable, having conical
peaks from .S,()(l(» to 1,(MH) feet in iieifxlit ; they were covered with snow fully
tluie-tourtiis of their heiffht, and partially to tiie water's edge. 'Phe weather
being moderate and tolerably clear, f determined on trying the channel iK'tween
these "rsifuiiis and the isluiid of Yoiiiiaska. !t is tcJi !■;■ eleven uiiles wide, and
apparently I'rcc I'rom danger. W'c stood through aljut r id-channel, Mid ad

lft7

no souiulinga at fifteen fatlioniH ; there was n ripplin{f of tlic water, hut not any
strength of current.

.\. On the ()th of July we made King's Ishnid, and the same evening anchored
off Point Spencer, Port ('larence.

4. On the following day, examination was made of the notices, cache of provi-
sions, find coals. Everything was found as wc left it last year, with the excep-
tion of til' " Plover's" storehouse, which was partly knocked down l»y the snow.

&. On the I()tli we sailed ; heat through the straits the following day, and
arrived otV Cape l.isburnc on the morning of the 19th.

(J. To my surprise, the shore both to the southward and north-eastward of
the cape was blocked with ice; tiie southern pack extended from the cape
as far as could be seen, and about fifteen miles deep from the land ; tiie other
pack, as far as could !)<• seen to the northward and eastward, with a lane of
water between it and the land, the wind being southerly. 'I'herc was a large
open space between the two packs, into whi( h we stood, to within iour or five miles
from the cape, and dose to the edge of the ice ; but there was no appearance of
any people or boats : a gun was fired, and we remained until quite satisfied
there was no one at the rendezvous. Wc then stood i.iit and worked along the
edge of the southern pack until the weather became thick ; this continued the
whole of the next day, with afresh southerly wind.

". On the 21st we stood in, and made Point Hope, close to the northward of
which we again observed the ice, but miu-h broken.

8. On the 22n(l we stood for Cape Lisburnc ; the ice was still off it, but
moving fast to the northward ; and on the 2;ird the shore to the southward of the
cape was free from ice. Two baidars with natives came otl"; they had seen
nothing of the "Plover's" boats. A boat was sent to bury a notice at the
rendezvous.

!). The ice still continued to hang ai-out the la id to the north-eastward of ( 'ape
l.isbiu'nc until the IHth, when a strong southerly wind came on, which lasted till
the .11 st, and cleared it away.

10. Wc cruised off Cape Lisburnc till the 1st August, cm which day, the
weather being settled, we anchored on a bank to the northward of the cape. This
bank has either grown up since Captain Hcechey's survey, or was not noticed by
him. We had ")| fathoms, the cape bearing S.S.E. (mag.) five miles.

11. We remained at anchor till the Itli, when 1 began to fear that some
accident had happened either to the " Plover" or her boats, and therefore deter-
mined to proceed to Icy Cape, and from theive to send a boat to Point Harrow,
for which purpose 1 prepared the pinnace of Lis ship. A cache of provisions
was buricu at the western part of the little bay of rendezvous previous ^o our
leaving.

12. On the oth we made the land about Point J. ' ad observed a stream of
ice to the N.E. The next day we stood tlu'ough large (juantities of sailing ice,
and as it became nnu'h less open as wc advanced to the northwiud, and there
being some streams of considerable extent, heavy enough to have rubbed away
our channels had wc come in contact in a breeze, (which in thick weather would
have been probable,) I bore up again lor Cape Lisburnc, resolving not to send
a boat that time. 'I'lie ice being so far to the s» ■.tliward at this advanced
period of the season, appeared to n)c <juite sufficient to account for the non-
arrival of the " Plover'.- '" boats. We had stood through the loose ice about ten
miles.

in. On the 7th, we were again off Cape Li>l)unie, but the boats had not
arrived ; for two days the wind having li''"''i firsh from the southward, I
hoped the ice might be cleared away, ami ti >ii the sth again made sail to

the northward.

14. On the !)th it blew strong iVoni the .\.L., and we stood otf and on Point
Lay, in the track of any vessel coming from Point Barrow. At 9 a.m. of the
lOlh, a sail was re|)orted to the northward, which was soon made out to be the
" Plover," and shortly a*'ter I had the satisfaction of hearing that they were all
well on board.

1.'). The boats had been wrecked on the i.'Hli July, in attempting t) come
(h)wn, but the whole jiarty regained their ship in safety,— Counnander Maguire's
desjiatch gives the detaUs of this accident We arrived in company with the

1 iuvci ill lull V liiivin-i' till lUf i.Jiii.

16. Manv eases of scurvv had occurred on board the " Plover," during the

li :^

i|tl

in^

m
k

winter ; I tlH-roHm' <mlm-H a iiitdio'il siirvrv to 1k' UM on tlit- crow, und
iiinovid siiili men ax wric irportcd uin' to rcninin on Arctic servici', filling up
tluir \iu'iin<irs by voliuittcrs from tlii.x ship. I also dirrctcil the nu'dical
ofiiarj* to n-port tlicir opinion ii> to the < luisc- of so nnieh ncmvy.

17. As it hud Invn reported thnt the " I'lover" leaked after tiikiii^ in her
xloreH and |)rovisit)nv last \eur. I considered it nee<'ssary to direct that a strict
ex: linution of her lull! should Ik- apiin made, and tiiat tiie siirx'eyinp officers,
in report init on tlic etlicicncv of tlie m-sscI, siiould take into consideration tiic late
period of tli( sear, and the iinta\(»iirai)leness of the sciison ; they were not
mianinious. iiiid at the request of ( onnnander Nfapiire, I took the furtlier step
of askinu; the opinion of each of the otticcrs "f the " I'lover." Asthev all atfree(i
that there UKuld not lu' undue risk in attempting: to return to Point Harrow, I
consented to the li 'einf^t iH'iiij^ made. My o\mi opn mn was, that then- woidd
he much ri "•, n v 'i , .count of the unfavonralile siason th.m of the state of
the vesv'l ; Imt kx»r i< . ing that it had Inen rcipiisite to remove her from I'oint
Barrow, l^fbi\ the orders had Ix-en received to deposit supplies of provisions
there, nnd that there was a possibility of parties fallintr hack from the " Kt ter-
prise" or " Investigator," to wlioni the want of stich sup|)lies might Ix* fatal, I
trust their 1-ordships will not dci-m that I have gone too far in pennitting that
risk to 1h' iticurred.

18. The "Plover" was ii'-eonn>le»'"' according to the accompanying report,
and sailed on the mornini; oft' . .'_,. , my t'ortc: itely she met the "liattlesnake"
at the entrance ot the |)orf ; Iwth vessels were anchored un<ler Point Sjx'ncer,
and the additional supplies, a list of which I have apjH'nded to the " Plover's"
report ot state and condition, were put on board her Some of the provisions
also supplied from this ship were exchanged for newer from the " Katticsnake."
The ■' iMo\er" tinally sailed on the inornmg of the 24tli.

19- <^" tbe 2.')th the " iJatilc^nake " came to the up|M'r anchorage, and
having been much lightentd, two attt-tnpts were made t<> take her into Cirantley
Harbour, without success. Commander 'I"rollop<' then decided u|K)n keeping
her in I'ort (,'larence ; I (|uite cnjncided with hmi as to tlu propriety of this
decision.

"iO. Dm'ing our absence from i'ort ( 'larence, the Hriti^h sihooner "Koh-i-Noor,"
Ci. L. Lev ien. master, had arrived on a trading voyage, ami had made a notation,
dated August 'ind, on one of the buried papiMs in (iraiitley Harbour.

21. On the 4th September \m- dropped down to I'oint *>';^encer to take 'n
wood. The " Kodiiik." bartpie, U'loiiLring to the Itnssian . . iiericnn Vw Com-
panv, armed at Port l larence on tlu 'ith. ^^'e saile<l on the afternoon of
the fith.

'J'2. C)n the lOfh we |)asse(l tlirough tlu .\nioughta ( hani^el without seeing
the land, and on the l6tii arrived at Lat. 40 10' S.. Long. l.'JO .WW., where
an island was reported to have been seen last year by a Swedisli ves.sel, and for
which I liad received 'irder" to search, from the Connnander-in-Chief. We
traversed between the p.iallels of 40 and 40 20' from Ihl .W to 149°, the
wiatl'cr being irenerully ilear enough to see land trom 12 to 14 miles, and
always from 7 "> ^ ; but nom was s^en, nor any indication ol it, and I tirel
satisfied ti'i.t there i'^ no land 'bin the above limits.

2;<. ()ntln 1st October wt uri\ed at lldnolulu; liavnig procured refresh-
ments, which were niiicli leipiiri'd by the people, we >.ailt(l on the 9th for San
IVanci'^co, in prosecution of orders trom the ( 'ommMndei-m-C-'hief. \S'e arrived
at this port <-'> ihi 2Hth, and it i-^ my intentio. to >ail in ,1 few days for the coast
of .Mexico, in ptirsuance of my orders.

f have, .V .

(iiAiuKs I'll DKKirK, Captain.

Enclosn

'n L. tter dated .31sf October 18.')3.

JK CuARiKs 1 Id , .. h llsq., Captain, ( Onnnanding Her Majesty's
Ship " Aniphit.ite," ai.i! Senior Naval Otlicir at Port Clarence,
Hehring Strait".

To the Senior Lieutenant, .Master, Carpenter, and (Carpenters Mate of Her

.Majesty's Ship " Amphitrite."

Yor arc hereby directed to repair on board Her .VIajest\'s ship " Plover,"
and hold -trict and careful snrviy on her hidl. and make such inquiries

r* /tpcotin^; hrr state im<l coiulition hh may seem luccNsiiry to you; |mrti(ulaily
wlu'ther slu- had km leaky oi not diiiinn- tlic past year; ri'portinn; to nu" wmr
opinion as to lii-r capalality of I'licouiitciin^ had wcallicr and ice in tiie attempt
again to rewh I'oint Harrow, consideiatiou heing luul to the advanced period of
the yonr.

Dii ' on hoard Mer Majesty's ship " Amphitrite," at I'ort Clarence,
ing Straits, the 15ih d'aj of August IHM.

(JllAHLEH i'HEDKKU k.

F.uclosure "J A in Letter dated 3 1st October irt53.

Pursuant to an Order from Chahi.i x Khkdehick, Esq., Captain ' om»
mandinj; Her Majesty's Shin " Amphitrite," and Senior Naval OHiccr
at I'ort Clarence, Heiirinj;- Straits.

We whose names are hereunto suhscrihed have heen on hoard ller Majesty's
Hhip " Plover," and have held a strict and careful survey on the imll of the
said ship, makinj^ inipiiries respecting her state and con<iition, particularly
whether she has l)ecn leaky or not during the past year ; also as to the ciipa-
bility of the ship to encounter had weather and ice in attempting again to reach
Point Harrow, consideration king had to the advanced period of the year; and
have to report as follows : —

1st. That, having cut awas the ceiling in various parts of both sides, to
examine the timbers, we found aft in the cabin, on the starboard side, two stern
timl)crs very defective ; in the magazine, one timk'r very detective; in the u/id-
ship l)ody, found a small stream of water trickling down between two tinilur-:,
below the water line ; in the starlward bow, three tind)ers very detective. On
the port side we Ibund, aft inthecal)in, one stern tind)er very defective ; likewise
the iir part of the outside jjlaiik to be defective ; the midship body and |)ort-
bow iind)ers examined, were found to be good.

2nd. That having made inijuiry as to the leakage of the ship, it was ascer-
tained from the report of Mr. Li'ath. carpenter, that it amoimted to si.\ inches
per twenty-four hours in light weather, during the passage from Point Harrow ;*
also, that whilst frozen in, the water was found to make at the rate of two and
a half inches per week.

W'c are therefore of opinion that the detects of ller Majesty's ship " Plover "
render her ii\capable of encoimtering bad weather and ice with safety.

Dated on board Her Majesty's ship " .\niphitrite,"
at I'ort Clarence, the 17th August 185:1.
VV. S. Stainkohtii, Lieutenant Senior) II. M. S. " Amphitrite."
Jamks Fkazkk, Carpenter, II. .M. S. *' Amphitrite."
Wii.MAM CiiAUTKUs, Carpenter's Mate, H. M. S. " Amphitrite."

Dissentient from the foregoing : —

I think the tindnrs ixamined not entirely detective, with the exception of
two; one in the starboard bow, the other under the magazine: the otherwise
sound state of the " Plover," and the nature of her fastenings, in my opinion,
render her capable of being employed again.

William H. (Jrane, Master.

^iil

Enclosure 3 in Letter dated 31st October 1853.

Captain Kkedkhick to the Ofhcevs of Her Majesty's Ship " Plover."

18th August 1853.
From your experience in taking the " Plover" to Point Harrow last year, I
have to desire that you will state to me your opinion whether there will not
be undue risk in attempting to again place her there, taking into your con-
sideration the qualities of the vessel, the advanced period of the year, and *he
unfuvourableness of the present season ?

Chaules Fredeuick, Captain.
H.M.S. " Amphitrite," Port Clarence.

* Tbu puinps 4uck at lburt««a iuchu.

U 4

iftri

("liptiiiii .M\<.iiiii.. — J. No; I liuvi- lit) miiHtii tor k'licviiig it to be an UD<
favoiinihli' sciison.

Licutfiiaiit Vdhnon -I tlo not tliii.k tluTc would l»c unduo risk.
Mr. SiMi'MiN, Siirjcfon. — I do imf IW-I (imiliHcd In uivc an opinion aH to the
lupiibilitv ol'tlic vi'mmI, liiit iiiii <<t'()|iiiiioii that iiugrt'iNr rink would U' incurred
thid ycur tliiin la>t, it tlir Mliip lfa\i'> at tlir »umu' ihmi )'I.

Mr. Hi 1,1., SiToud Miittrr. — I think tht-ro wouhi i • to umIuu risk.
Mr. Ni \rii, t'ur|H'nt<'r. I think thdv would not ! nutrt- than coinnioii risk.

KtKiiioiii .M\i.MMi, CoinniandiT.
A. II. \ I iiNoN, Lii'utiMiant.
TiKiMvs A. Mill, Sirond Mii-^tcr,
John Si:.\rii, ( ariHiitir.
John .SiMI'Hns (M.), Suigi'oii.

Of Ili-r Maji'-'tv's Ship " I'lovfr."

No. ','.
Ski RKTAiu III riiK .\ii.\iih\i i\ to Captain riiDiiKiin k.

Sir, Kith .laiiiiaiy IH.'il.

I \M connimndi'd li\ in\ Lords CoinmissioiuTs of the .\diiiiraltv to iickiiow-
U'diic the ivc'iipt ol voiir U'tter of thi' '.\\>\ OctoluT la-t, (Ictailiiijf your proceed-
iiiys in c'onvi'vinji sjipplifs to the icliff ot' tlu- ixpidilitai in Hthriii^ Straits;
und I am to anpiaint you tliat iiiv Lords nitiivly approve of the jud^:mfiit und
activity witli which yon lia\c canicd out their instructions on this suiijeet.

I am, \'c.
(SitfiK'd) \V. A. H. IIamiiton.
Captain Frederick,

II. M.S. " Anipiiitrite," i'acitii'.

XIII.

Ui>|)tirl of tlic l*ro('iHM lilies (if llt'i- Mnji'sfy's Discovery Ship " I'lovcr,"
Commander Koclilort .Ma^'iiirc.

No. I.

Coiiiiiiander .M.\(.riiii: to tiie Si:rnKr\iiv ok riii; .Vdmiuai.tv.

Her .Majesty's Ship " Plover," Port Clarence,

•Jisi .Vuffiist ixr,:\.

.Sir, ( Ucceived Kith Decenilnr.)

I iiAM the iionour to report to you for the iiifonimtion of tiie I,,ords ( 'oin-
inissioners ot tlie .Adiiiiraity my procii'diiius since my last communication of
the 21st of Auu'iist I s«.")i>, in a- brief a form as I can, oinitliiiu the cUtaiU of the
necessary sliipV duties and airaiinemeiits, and he^- to refer to tin- accoiiipanyiiij;
ahridfrii I journal for some account of our iiitercour>e with the l^^(|uimau.<, and
other iiu'ideiital occurrences.

Proceedinjj: to >ea from Port Clauiice early on the morniiij;- of tlie 'Jlst
August, we passed thnaiuh Hehrini,' Straits iiy the eastern pa-sasfc the follow-
ing day at noon with a tiivouralile hree/e. -V succession of loiitiaiy winds
delayed our progress to the iiorth-iast, so thut wi' only arrixed al Point Marrow
by the :!i(l Septeml>er, and were frozen in on tiii' 2llh of tiii' same month.

The approach tu the ai.ehorage sought was, contrary to my expectations,
shoal and intricate, but when gained it was secure, tli(iugli difficult of access or
egress.

The commencement of our intei((iiir>e with tlie native- was attiiided with
many imiilen-^imt ciicumstaiice-;. Nd ^iiiLjK' boat'- <vew could beat any distance
troiii the -liip without In ing pilfered In ,, and on the mo-t tii\ial occasious

IGI

knives wore (Vfquiiit ly drnvvti on our men, who, though armed with muskcU,
had Htrict orders in no ease to make even ii show of them, unless <il)1igcd by
neef-sity. 'I'he ship's dei ks were iit times crowded, iind in one instimee their
manner wum so suspieious as to induce me to li (\e the erew iirnied, — thow on
deek ^oing lielow one ut a time tor pistols, and retiuninj? witii them secreted in
their lireiists ; there was, liowever, no oeensioii lor their use. S(H)n atHerwHrlt,
a house built on llu' spit for the stowajfe of our stores, was hrokei into
and robbed. 'I'he next morning, on the ciiieriomiiig on board, I ^(ot po- cssioii
of his g:un, and Ihreateiied to attack the villam' it the stolen articles w e r'lt
returned, which had the etVect of bringing thcni in force towards the ship, irmcd
with bows uiid arrows, but some shots tired over their heads cuuse<l their retreat
without loss of life. 'I'he following morning the tliing> were immght back
From this time wc ap|)earcd to get oii better with them, and nt length so good
an understanding appcare<l to ( xist between us that I hoped we had succeeded
in gaining theii contidence. This desirable state of things was unfortunately
put an end to by a calamity which occurred on the morning of the Hth of .June,
a gun having gone otV by acciileiit in the hands of the iiuarter-master of the
watch and killed a native man altmgsidc the ship; but I am hiippv in the l)eliet
that the nature of the accident was subse(|iicntly understood by tWin, and that
any feeling of ill-will on tlieir jiart towards us in conse(|uence has sulisided.

The 20th September had arrived i)efoie the Inhaviour of the natives would
aUow me to turn my attentitm to the object of the ships Iwing here, when, in
order to erect conspicuous marks of our position, and to examine the capabili-
ties of Dease's Inlet as a winter station, should it be desirable to move the
" IMover" eastward, I niadi' a boat excursion, accompanied by Mr. S. A. Hull,
second master, and found the dinth of water at tluit place in.sufficient. To
examine the coast still further, ami to distribute notices of a shi|) being at Point
Harrow, with a view of their falling into the hands of parties retreating in this
direction from the missing ships, or those engaged in the search tor them, — I
made a journey on the ice, aci()in])anied by .Mr. S, I). Wright, inidshiuinun, as
far as Point Drew, a distance of sixty miles to the eastward, and there deposited
a small cache of preserved meats, in the month of Novemln'r. This excursion
occupied only thirteen days, but the tiinperature was very low, and some frost-
bites were the consequence; but v.ilutible experience in ice travelling was gained
as a set-oti" against these evils. Occupying a position which, on looking at the
chart, seems so available as a point ot (li'parture for exploring parties advancing
towards the N.K., I had hoped to attain some considerable distance in that
direction, l)Ut the existence of a water sky visible from the ship throughout the
winter, and the unexpected break up of tlu' ice to within a few yards of us, at
the solstice, showed that travelling on the sea ice in this region is too hazardous
to be c(mtemplated at any season ; I was therefore compelled, reluctantly, to
limit myself to a journey along the coast to the eastward. 'I'he vicinity of a
populous native settlenunt, together with the debilitated state of the crew and
the absence of travi'lling e(|uii)ment, were serious impediments to distant
travelling; yet it seinud necessary that the (^)lville Uiver should be visited —
not merely with the vague hope that intelligence of our ships might be obtained,
and to visit the shores of a bay which the boats in IS l<) could not examine — but
also in order rightly to understand the intbrmation given us by the people
of Point Harrow, by lu'ing able to identify the rivers and points of land
mentioned by them, with those delineated on our charts. An attempt was first
made to construct a sledge on the ])lan recommended by Captain M'Clintock,
which failed only for want of proper wood for the runners ; but the object was
ultimately attained with native slidges and dogs. 'I'his journey, a detail of
which would be unnecessary to give on this occasi(m, but may be descriljcd in the
concluding remarks of my journal, was performed between the 4th and "iQth of
April ; and although its result has been unsatisfactory from the lowness of the
land preventing the eoast-liiu- being traced, and the want of success in gaining
information relative to either of the expeditions, for whose benefit the " Plover"
is stationed at Point Harrow, -yet it has had the advantage of enabling us to
interpret the native accounts (if the coast, and to establish the fact of these
people being acciuainled with the Mackenxie Uiver, under the name of Ko-puk,
which I hitherto supposed to apply to the Colville. This, if necessary, would
determine the no.^itio!! silluded to, in tlie report received by Captain Moore, at
this place in is.")0, of boats' crews having arrived at the Ko-puk, and being

(62

niurdi'ird.* It lii> also sliowii us t hut tlu- nmst fioin Point Uairow to Sir John
Friiuklin's cxtronu (Uotuni Uirt'), contains no wiiitiT Imt.-., .'uul by iiniiuostioimblo
native report, then- ure none to sonir distiinci' lu'vonil Barter Island; so that
parties traviUing in sprin;,^ or autumn eould receive neither assistance nor
hiudraiice t'roiu natives, for an extent of at least 250 niile> from Point Harrow.
From the native accounts here it seems certain that I- *h tlu' '• Investigator"
and " Enterprize" were hoarded at tlu' tinu' ol' their passiMg alonj; thi> part of
the coast, at the distance of .")0 and \Mt miles east of this place, some of
them accuratclv descrihiufj; petuliarities ahout the ships h\ which they could Imj
known, such as the large ice chocks and diagonal decks, iVc.; hut the only actual
truce of either of them we may he said to havi' discovered is a portion of a
paper fromthe " Investigator," dated otf Point Drew, sih August \H')0, together
with thecauvass luig that had enclose<l it. With rcferi'iici' to the progress these
ships may have made to the eastward, it might he expected that thi' movements
in the ice at Point Barrow v.ould give some idea of the set of the current in that
part of the Polar Sea; hut our ohscr\ation> can go no further than confirm the
belief in the existence of a current to the N.K.,to a di-tanci' ol'onU a few miles
«>ff the land. Beyond that a line of luunmockv ice, from ten to twenty feet in
height, has existed all the winter, apparently agroiuul in six fathoms; beyond
tliis line scarcely a day pas.xcd throughout the winter, without a water sky being
visible between W.S.W. and N.E. (true).

When easterl , w inds prevailed, a large s])ace ol' opin water was indicated by
the extent of water sk\, and when visited, the vapour rising from its siu'face
obscured the view beyond a few hundred vard.-; but within that distance heav}'
icx; was seen drifting in a direction with the wind. The .iatives informed us
that the ice was set off the coast by the easterly, and packed upon it bv westerly
winds, and that the greatest clearance is etlcctcd by S. and S.W. (^true) gales.
They point to the N. (true) as the dirci-tion in wliicli the ice goe>, but wc
have not Injen able to understand whether they con-idcr tiiis the etfecl ot a
prevailing current. Whilst treating on this subject, it seems worthy of
lH.'ing remarked, that the natives state the whales to make tluir appearance
off Point IIopc' in April and Mav, wiicn tlic iit break.- up into tiehls, and
that most ot' them have ihsapj)eared b\ •'• '•uie the ships arrivi. The animals
appear about the >ame time at Poi-' iJarnjw, ' "e f .>aed by tiie natives in
their u-mi-aks, which they carrv lO the open watii lor that purpose. In .June
few are seen, :ind in July nc .■, and the ptnpic believe' tlii'v retiii' northward,
to return in .\ugust and Si|)teud)cr. Tlii' masters of whaling voscls have
informed me that whales are li>s ainmdant in tiic open water in.luiy and August
than in .lune. The tide> have been rtgi>tered hourly for nine month.-, and the
result is that the flood make- from the west, iuid the mi'an rise and fall in Mlsou's
Bay is seven inches. Tiii' time of '.ligli water at lull and cliangi is I cvi. ; l)ut
great irregularities oixur from tlu' wind, tin rise being -carci'lv perciptibli- with
fresh E. luid N.E. breezes, when with .S.W. gale- it amounts to Hi, feet. Of
tile latter case, a remarkable instance occurnd on the Isih of i)ecend)er, when
the water rose from the usual thplh of I J.^ firt to i7tt. lOin., with a gali- at
S.W. (true), the force of which was registered for 1 I Ikmu- at s{\. \fni. uiid lU
I'eet. The hunnnock> which had U'cn grounded aloiii; the hori/on and in-hore
by northerly and north-we.-terly wind- in Stplend)er, win lluateel by tiiis lise,
and bh)wn of!' the land, taking with them all the iee that had formed oul.-ide the
<pit and islands, togetiu'r with a large' portion of the Hoe' within the anchorage,
which brought the o|)en water within forty vards ol the >liip. On thi' followhig
day, Decemb<;r lyth, at noon, instead of tlu' usual unbroke'ii lield ol ice' te) the
northward, we had none in sight from the masthead, and the view of an open
sea was as little agreeable as it was unseasonable'. In a le'vv ehiv - it was again
frozen, and after a time tlic line of humnioeks was again lormed, and re'maine-el
fast when we passed in the sliij) on the evening of the 7th of ,\ugust. The
lateness of the pre.-ent season compai'cd with everv oni' since Isls. -rcms to me
to Ik; accounted fe)r by the winter gah'S liavinu be'cn heavier ihan usual this
last year, and by raising higher tide-, the' heavy mus-e> have' groimded more
firmly along shore, where' thev im|)ede the e'urrent in clearmg the .-hoic eif the
last winter's formation. The month- of .lunr and .lid\ were remarkable' tor the

■■ ;

Viilr t'.flia'iiu'ii.ir V ^tlpt^^, St-Miuii \<i

Vlar(.|i iH'Ji. |),

163

absence of strong winds, which alone assist in (lrivinf>- the ice oft" shore. The
mean temperature tor the eleven months at Point Barrow, was about six decrees
higher than that given as the result of Sir E. Parry's twelve months at Melville
Island; but the higliesl and lowest temperatures have had a more limited range,
being + 50, and — 4:?, or 18' above the freezing point on the warmest day of
July, and ^T^ below it on the coldest ila\ of .biiuiary. The prevailing winds
have been K.N.E., N.K., •ind Northerlx ''•'ie)duringt,he winter and spring, inter-
rupted occasionally by those from the ojjposite points, and after May they were
moderate and more varial)le.

The fall of snow was not great, and did not exceed one foot in depth ; but
the air throughout was loaded a good deal with clouds and vapours, and during
the summer the dew point was high. The climate may therefore be considered
humid, as might be anticipated from its maritime situation.

During the winter the officers took nmch interest in making astronomical
observations, and by a mean of ;3.'i() lunar distances, the longitude of Point
Barrow was found to agree with that given to it by Mr. Elson, the discoverer.
A series of magnetical observations were also made under the superintendence
of Mr. Hull, the second master, who also registered the tides, and whose zeal
in these occupations was higlily praiseworthy. The departure of a large por-
tion of inhabitants of Point Harrow and Cape Smyth to the eastward in the
early |)art of ,1 uly, relieved me of all anxiety about receiving any hindrance to
the transport of the boats to the open water; and on the 9th I accompanied Lieut.
Vernon, and Mr (iordon, mate, with an auxiliary party to assist in dragging the
boats on sledges over tlu' ice twelve or thirteen mdes to the southward of Cape
Smyth, where 1 li'ft him with a laMiuialile breeze, confidently trusting in his
success. 1 enclose Lieut. Vernon's account of the loss of the boats in his
charge, and merely remark that I am perfectly satisfied with the manner in which
that othcer acipiitted liimself, and to express my feeling of pleasure that he was
able to save the lives of all his party, whose conduct on this occasion was most
praiseworthy.

From the 1st of August I had kept up a daily C(mnnunication with Cape
Smyth, by .^ending an officer across I'.lson's Ray to report any opening or move-
ment in the ice ; and on the "th, seeing open water round Point Barrow, and a
favourable easterly wind blowing, I wci;' in a boat to examine the state of the
ice. I found the lane of watir along short to terminate a mile north of Cape
Smvtli ; but since the Awx pievious anothei had been formeil by the easterly
wind outside the land floe and lirst liiu' of .nnnmocks to the S.W., as far as
could be seen on a clear day. Ueturning on board at 8 p.m., and finding the
wind steadv at l''.S.M., with no change indicated by the barometer, I proceeded
to sea, hoping to keep the breeze luitil clear of the ice, and to make my way to
Cape liisbnrne. to receivi- orders or make arrangements for returning to Point
Barrow in the event of being ordered. The wind shifted to S.W. in the night,
with heavy rain and dense fogs, 'i'owards the morning of the 9th a N.E. wind
gave us ever\ prospet't of ■^oon reaching open water; but the land floe in the
<leptb of I'eard Ha\ was I'oimd to extend nine miles otf shore, which, as the
weather was still thick, seemed to otl'er an impediment to the ship's further pro-
gress; but bv H) A.M. the open water was gained through close ice, in which
some -hocks were -ustained, but not more severe than the ship was well able to
sustain without injin\ . ()i> the following day at II a.'m. I comtmmicated with
n. M. S. " Amphitrite," and repaired in company with her to Port Clarence, to
prepare tor iiioIIhi wiiitir at I'oinl Marrow. Ha\ing been completed to sixteen
months' provisions ami fuel by that ship, and there being no probability of the
nrrival of H.M.S, " Kaltlesnake" being now ready for sea, I purpose sailing
from hence at \ \.m. to-morrow, the 'i-'d instant, to take tip my winter quarters
atjain at Point Harrow, \\li( ic I shall remain until released from the ice in 1S54.
1 shall thill rt'turn t.i this ]ilacc to meet H.M.S." Kattlesnake," in pursuance of
their Lordships' instruct ioi.s.

I have, iVc.

Horiiio^.T Magoire, Commander.

:!'

,l! .1

X 2

184

Enclosures.
To the Chief Trader in the Russian Settlement, North America.

Sir,

Her Britannic Majestys Ship " Investigator,"
8th AuLfust inrx).

Off Point Drew thi.s day. Should any white people (English) be seen along
the coast, I have to request that you will give directions for their Wing . .

(The revuiindir of fhr nuticc torn ofi'.)

Akctic ExrKnnioN i\ skaiu ii of Sir John Fhanki.iv.

Her Majesty's Ship " Plover" Mill be found wintering ( I8r)2-.").H) two miles
S.E. (true) of Point Barrow, called by the natives Noo-wook.

Parties falling back upon thiit point are reconniicnded to travel along the low
chain of sand-pits lying otl'the coast, as the most direct line.

The natives on the whole arc not unfriendly, l)ut nuist be .Icalt with
cautiously to avoid surprise.

April, 1H.')3. Kduiioi,. M\(.iini., ( Onnnandcr.

The movements and position of tlie '* I'lover" altir .luly 1853, will altogether
depend upon furtlier instructions or intelligence from the A<lmiralty.

These papers will be disttihutcd by a Slcdgc-pavty, under tlic conduct of
Conmiander Maguirc, of H.M.S. " Plover," engaged in examining tiie coast
between Point Barrow and the l{ctiun Hccfot Sir .). franklin.

Altll'IC Exi'llOiriON IN >i;.\K( U ok ISms .Inl'N 1"UA\KI.1\.

Tins paper is printed tor distribution by tlu' nati\cs ot' Point Barrow among
the Eastern Esipiimaux at Barter Island, with tlic hope tiiat it may tall into the
hands of any persons belonging to the .\rctic Expeditions who may be on or
near the coast.

Should this hope be realized, the parties will learn that the " I'lcver" has
wintered ( JH.")2-.");$) at Point Barrow, called by tlu' natives .Noo-wook, where it
has t)een ascertained that only H.M.S. " Investigator" was seen pas-ing to the
eastward of Return Reef in ls.")(), and tlu' " Eiiterprize" in 1M,')|.

Although the mo\ements and position of the " Pl(i\er," after bei;ig released
from the ice, will altogether depend uiion future instructions oi- inteiligence from
the Admiralty, it is almost certain that she will nniain lure anutlier winter,
unless further information is obtained.

The natives on the vhole arc not unfriendly, but ii)n>t be dealt with
cautiously to a- i surprise, and are not to be trusted when in large numbers.

UoiiiKiiti Maoiiui;, ( ommander.

NoTicF, i() iti: i.KFr Willi 111! Naiims (h I'lnvr Bahiiow.

The "Plovir" arrixcd at this place, the native nainc of *\liich is .N(io-W(X)k,
on the ;Jrd of Sej)ti-mbir last, wintereil lu re, and lelt tor Belning Straits in
August 1851$, tor further orders. If sheducs not return hither she will probably
be found at (irantley Harlionr next winter.

The only inteliigenee obtained of ships i'-. that the " Investigator" in iMoO,
and the "Enterprize" in |s")l, on their |)as>age to ihi' ea^tuard, weic \isite<l by
the natives.

The natives here have proved on the whulc liii mlly, Imt the\ are not to bo
trusted by an unarmed |)arty.

RoiiiioiiT .M\(,i iiiF, ('ommander.
H.M.S. "Plover," August jm.VV

165

No. 2.

Commander Rochfort Maguikk to the .Sf:c;ri;tary of the Admihai.ty, London.

Her Majesty's Dise-jvery Ship " Plover,'
Port' Clarence, •2M August 1853.
Sir, (Received Kith December.)

I HAVE the honour to aetjuaint you, tor the intbrnintion of my Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty, that "l sailed from the ujtper anchorage at Port
('larence at 4 a.m. of the 22d of August ; and pre\ ious to clearing the heads I
had the good fortune to meet Her Majesty's Ship " Rattlesnake," whose number
I was enabled to report to Her Majesty's' Ship " Aniphitrite."

With Captain l'Ve(knick"i permission," I have returned to the " Rattlesnake" the
pn/,.3ions and stores he liad provided us with, nnich to his own inconvenience,
and taken in an adecpiate proportion of the liberal sn])plies sent from England.
Having; _ received every assistance from Connnander Henry I'rollop'e that
cou.ld be given, I am now on the point of again taking my departure for Point
Barrow, where I hope to reach early in September, if not stopped b\ the ice.

I cannot sufficiently express my satisfaction at thus opportunely meeting the
" Rattlesnake," nor too nmch admire the judgment and expedition with which
the passage out has been etfected.

1 have, ^;c.

RociiFour Magi'uu:, Commander.

No. ;?.

AiK lie Skas.

NARRATIVE OF (JOMALWDER MA(}UniE.

In accordance with my last connnuniciition, I proceeded to sea ii'om Port
Clarence on the morning of tlie 'ilst of August, and with a favourabli' breeze
passed through Rehring Sti'aits by tlie eastern passage, on tiie following day
at noon. A succession of contrary winds delayed our progress to the N.E. to a
nmch greater extent than was considered favourable to ensure our complete
success of rounding Point Barrow, at that ad\anced period of the season.

In our passage to the nortinvard \ve passed several whale sliips cruising in
s(]iuidrons, a caution tliey seem to iiave |)rudently ado])ted, for the benefit of
affording nmtual assistance in tlie e\'ent of disaster, '^riie'r success up to that
time seemed to bi- indifferent, and we have been since iid'ormed by natives from
Point Hope, that whales liax'e become very scai'ce on the coast, since the ships
have come in pursuit of them. 'I'he last whale slnp (French.) seen by us was on
the morning of t!ie L^")tli August, in latitude Wr .'id' N., longitude l"67° l'-^' W.,
carrving all sail to the southward. We soon afterwards nuuiv_ the ice in heavy
floes, and tacked in-hore to ascertain its distance from the land, when we found
the contrary winds had dono us good service by ojiening a free passage of from
ten to fifteen nides, ii; which we bent to the X.E., iiiaking but slow progress
imtil the night oi the "id Septen\lier, when a slant from tlie southward, with a
fast-falling liarometer, warned us that a chanut' of weather was at hand. Our
distance from Point Barrow, now reduced to litfy miles, I thought we could
accomnlis'i beibu the ice sei inslunv, and theret<)re pushed forward under all
sail and rcwnidn' it at tlie distance of one nn'le, on the following day at noon,
September :Ul.

riie a|)nroacli to the ciiuiincl leading iietwcen the sandy islets, that tbrm the
protection we were about to seek for the wintei- in F'Ison's Bay, was found,
contrarv to our ;'xpectations, shoal and intricate, making it necessary to anchor
the ship am; sound out the passage. If it was found not to afford sufficient
water, of which there was a doubt, our ))ositi(>n was not one to lose time in, shut
out, and closi' down on an exposed shore, with a gale coming on that would
soon have loaded it with ici-. Having ascertained, as exp"ditiously as jnissible,
that there was about nine inches to sp:!re across a shoal before we got to deep
water, the anchor was weighed, an;l alter tnaking a few tacks, the narrowness of
the channel and the ship taking the ground twice, made ii advisaiilc to anchor
and kedgc under shelter ot the spit. ;V fortunate tm-n in tlie current enabled
US tv) t'tiei't this, as b\' the time the wur'^s h.a.d been run out., the gale had
increased so much as to render it unsafii' to trip the anchor ; however, finding a

\ ;!

106

stronp wenthcr niiTciit setting, it was weipheci, am\ the ship wni-ped into a wild
looking anclionigo tor protection, in a gale of wind, no land being visible, except
the low sand spit of Point Harrow and the islet nfljoiiiing, not more than five
feet above the level of the sea, whicli iirokc overthetn witii great violence during
th«' height of thf gale. Tliese are again guarded by the shoals lying off, on
which the (h'ift ice grounds, making the anchorage when gained secure, but
difficult of access or egress. Daylight next morning showed us how fortunate
wc had been in getting shelter ; the gale, now veered to west, was unabated ;
the sea broke heavily over the shoals passed yesterda\, and against thesandspits
to within a short distance of the ship, whilst the ofting was encumbered with
heavy ice, becoming gradually closer with the gale. As we found a strong
current setting to windward, I had no doubt of the ship holding on, although
the confined space of the anchorage did not admit veering more than thirty
fathoms of cable. In the afternoon the gale began to moderate, and on the
following day the ship was moved to a more secure berth, near the position
selected for winter quarters, where we remained until the ice set fast on the
24th September.

A succession of strong gales and thick weather for the following week
retarded our preparations, consisting chiefly in collecting driftwood, not found
here in any abundance. Troni this material the plank for housing-in was sawed,
and the remains stacked for the winter tiring. Advantage was also taken of
every opportunity to send a boat to sound the channel, knowing the difUculty
of the task after tlu' ice had formed, and on its i)reaking up we should be too
anxious to move with it, to have time for that })urposc. On the ^.'ith, pancake
ice began to form in the hay, and drift out rai)idly with the current. A party
was sent to haul the launcii up en tlic adjacent islet, to be out of reach of the
natives; this service was performed by Mr. (i. T. Gordon, mate, who, when
returning in the gig witli a fresh and favourable wind, was unable to push his
way through the young ice, and was carried in it through the |)assage into the
offing. In this distressing dilemma a si'cond boat was lowered, in which
Lieutenant A'crnon promptly volunteered hi^ services, and by running out
700 fathoms of whale line t^he gig was reached, now carried some distance off
;hc land. Hy this means tliey were enabled to reacli the spit, although they
had another narrow escape I'rom being carried out, by the line parting when they
were close to it ; fortunately, one of the men was siiHiciently c|uick to heave
the end amongst a crowd of l".s(|uiinaux, drawn to the spot by witnessing the
state of our boats, and tlicv hauled them up, where they had to remain for the
night, the ice being now too strong to allow us to haul the boats through it,
and not sufficiently firm tor the people to walk on board. During the night the
ice mo\ed but once a sh<irt distance, then set fast, and in the morning we had
the satisfaction of receiving our ooaf's crew on board, after experiencing a degree
of anxiety for their safety that is not easily described.

The following days were <)ccupi((l in suw-ing a canal towards our winter
position, which was nuicli delayed by unexpected movements in the ice, undoing
our work when nearly completed ; and on the ',W\h at 10 i'.m., we were tracked
up it by about "0 natives, men, women, and chihlren, whose shouts and
exclamations of surprisi' gave animation to the whole scene, and made it one of
deep interest.

Our time was n((\v busily occupied in making tlic usual preparations for
passing a winter in this rigorous climate, which wi- had thus early observed
symptoms of. A temporary house was erected close to the ship, to receive our
deck-load of provisions to enable us to have them clear, for the crew to take
exercise when the state o1 tiie weather would not admit of their leaving the
ship and an oii'ci'vatory tor the reception oi' the magnetical instruments was
constructed fron; ice alon( . which answered the |)urposc perfectly for eight
months.

These arrangcmi'uts wire completed tiy tin' "iiitli of October, when the
n<cessary wintiM routine was established lor an economical expenditure of fuel
and ])ro\ i-ioiis, with due attention to order, cleanliness, occupation and annise-
nient, to lighten as niucli as possible a time confessed b\ all as being depressing
and monotonous. Maiiy valnable hint- on this subject were gaine<l from the
works of Captain Parrv, ir following whose example 1 considered we could not
err; taking advan'':ag'' "' his experience, the masts and yards were kept in their
proper places, al'ibnliiig u Intter mark for seeking the ship from a distance,

167

bearing in mind our being here in expectation of parties falling back upon us for
safety ; and as the land is very low, and in winter it may be said not visible, the
ship made a fine object, being discernible in clear weather at the distance of nine
miles from every direction.

Deeming it a matter nf importance that the " Plover's" position at Point
Barrow should be known as far to the eastward as possible, and also wishing to
ascertain whether Deuse's Inlet would aftbrd shelter lor any vessel that might at
any future time be desirous of wintering there, I took the earliest opportunity of
making a boat excursion to perform this service, and left the ship on the morn-
ing of the 2 1st of September, in the gig, accompanied by Mr. T. A. Hull, second
master. Steering otf the land into five fathoms, we passed a good deal of sailing
ice, and proceeded E.N.lv. over an even bottom of from five to six fathoms,
with the wind from the S.E.

Changuig our i;ourse to the southwartl we got entangled am, ng a series of
sand spits, when, taking to our oars, we steered along the outside of the largest
island of the group, which we then supposed to be connected with the main land
about Po'"*^ Christie, but was afterwards found to be one of the very low chain
of sandy slets running along this coast. As i suspected this was taking ns to
the eas< /ard of the inlet, I landed to ascend the highest part, to see how nuich
farther it extended, and found a second island running in the same direction.
The water being too shoal for hauling the boat up here, we stood out into
deeper water, and at length succeeded in hauling the boat up for the night on
the second island. During the night a strong breeze sprang up from the N.W.,
with a temperature of + 30°.

Knowing we had run our distance for Dease's Inlet, I was not a little puzzled
to know where we were, as I could scarcely fancy it was possible to lay down
this coast without noticing these islands.

On the following morning, our observations being complete and the boat
loaded, and now concluding that DeaseV Inlet must be looked for to the south-
ward, and first erecting a conspicuous murk on this place of the " Plover's"
winter position, we steered foru point of the main just visible S.W. (true).

This proved to be Point Christie, wliere we landed in time to get the latitude at
noon. Its higher part does not exceed ten fe(;t above the level of the sea ; and
here we erected another large mark. The season now seemed to be so far
advanced that 1 was in doubt between crossintj; the inlet and returning to the
ship ; but, as I considered my object would not be carried out without placing
notices on Point Taugent, 1 determined to cross it, and started with a fine lead-
ing wind from the nortliward. In two hours we reached the eastern shore, which
is even more shoal than tlit western — the water about Point Tangent being so
shallow that our boat coultl not be got within a cable's length of the beach.

Having now found that tiie greatest dej)th of water to be obtained by sound-
ing directly across Dease's inlel \\a^ eleven feet only, with its shores extremely
shoal, I considered the question settled that i essel could find winter quarters
there; and, after leaving the proper notices, sia/ted on (uir return to the ship.
Sludge ice was observed on our return to be forming in all the small bays, the
temperature having i'ullen to -^ liV, warning us that the open season was nearly
at an end. Passing the night in the same place us the previous one for the sake
of the drift wood, we left the next morning with all hasLte for the ship, which,
with a fine breeze from the northwrd, we reached by noon. Twelve hours after
our return it was reported to me that the ice was drifting past the ship.

A further examination of Dease's Inlet was afterwards made by Mr. T. A. Hull,
second master, in the month of Ma} , in continuation of a survey of this coast
from Point Barrow eastward.

The soutb'-rn shores of this inlet, which had hitherto been left blank on the
chart, were now traced. It was found to extend in a S.W. cUrection for a distance
of twenty miles, its breadth at the mouth being eight miles, and terminating m
a shoal bay. The S.E. shore is much higher than the rest, one cliff there being
a'^ high as twenty-four feet. Four inconsid-nable rivers empty themselves here
— two on the eastern, and two on the western shore.

The chain of islands which, commencing ai, the "' Plover's" winter quarters,
closely abut on Point Tangent, the western part of which was discovered by
'Captain .Moore, and denominated by him ' Plover's Group," has been found to
uc tea in number (on but two or lliree of the largest, of which is there the
slightest sign of vegetation), running in a line ahnost pai-aUel with that of the

X 4

Mil

Ipi

l^^' i

,:Jr

l6s

const, or E.S.K. and W.N.W. (tnii') i'loiii I'oiiit Hanow to Point Tangent, wlii-ro
thcv ti'i-niinatc, tlu- only cliainirl lu'twcm llicin of siiliick'nt di-ptli tor a sliip biMiig
the'onf l)v wliich tin- *' PIovit" I'ntnvd.

From the tiiu of our arr'\al at winter ipiartrrs situated two miles E.S.E.
(true) I'roni the F.si|uim:mx settlement on Point IJarrow, called by them No(v-
Avook, we found this people, contrary to our preconceived oi)inion, very trouhie-
siinie an<l unfriendly. 'To such an I'Xtent did this feelinij: exhibit itself, that it
would have been prudent to removi' from their vicinity (particularly as we liad

receded niori

than

)nce umui>takable hint to that eilectK had circiuustances

hnitted it ; biU, as we oci'U{)ii'd the didy spot ot' deep water to be found on this
part of the coast, it became necessary to ;>ut u|) with the evil, hopinj^ that time
and a better knowledjic uf our charai'ter would improve their conduct, and I had
no doubt our winterinj;- amonj^st them would eventually be attended with bene-
ficial results. 'I'he t'omnu'neement of (Uir iiUeriourse was attendi-d with many
unpleasant circumstances. No sinjiie boat's crew could be at any distance from
the ship without heini:; i)illert'(i from in the most darinn and tiarefaced Avay ; and
upon every trivial, and olu-n without any, occasion, thi'ir knivev were drawn upon
our men, who, although armed with mu>;kets, had .strict order": in no case to miikc
even a show of them, unles-i ()bliu:e<l by nicessity, as I tliouf^ht recourse to that
force was to l)e avoidi-d wlu'ii a yood feeling' in favour (if any of oui' missing couiitry-
inen, who may at any futuri- period be in their jiowcr, was the object sought.

Carrv

ni": (

)Ut these views to the extent of not showinu; oiu' arms was not

ciated, as thev mistook forbearance for timiditx

and

It th

ippre-

otHcer-i going with a watering party to the viilagi', to carry their guns ik

e(|uest of two

>nnnallv

for tl:

e ]>urposi- of >li()ot

\]\<s -mall birds, tlu show of them was foimd to have so

pood an etfect that it was adopted on all future occasions, although we were
oblig.'d to cease sending for water after a few turn-, there being always some
imphasant display of feeling on their jiart that wss lest avoided when possible.
\Vhilst occurrences such as I haxc mentioni'd v. ere t.aking |)lace daily with
oiu' parties aw;i\ from the -hi|>, the diHieulty of dealing with lho>e collected
al',)Ut her was sufhcient to emjiloy all the people lett on board, exchisi\e of the

]

re.-sinii

duties of the -hlu, with a small crew, at this sea-on.

.\bout till' 1.5th Septendicr, they appeared to be returning to their winter
huts, from their u>ual snnnner's excursion along the coast to the eastward, and,
«s the .-lu'ii liy in their direct track, wi' had a \isit from all of them, including
also the Cape Smyth tribi', beiui^ tiie two most numerous on any part of the
coast numbi'ring to'jether about ti\c hundii-d. .\s in.any as se\en or eight
large u-mi-ak- arrixi'd daily for I'iglit or nine days, containing their sunnner
tents, familie-, dog-, and sledge-, \c. : they appeared perfect strangers, and
looki'd in amazement at us and the ship. 'I'lu'y brought with them a small
(]u;intif V of ti-h and \(ni-oii : with the hitter they jiarted reluctantly, and seemed
to prefer iM-gging and -tealing (in which they were mo-t uii^cru]uilous) to any
kind of ixchanixe.

( )ii the niornint; of tiie 17th I wa- informed that a iarjie u-mi-ak had (

•ome

nU)iig-ide, and the er<'\v had forced their way on board. .\s tin- was not an
lUiconnnon ca-e, 1 thought nothing of it when I found that i.ieut. Vernon was
attending on deck, lie -oon came down to intiiiiu me that the chief of the
party had a imi-ket, and w,i- \ei\ anxious to get gun])owder in exchange for
renison. 'Phi- piece of information I eon-idered the worst I luid received
fnong-t many unph'a-ant cirenni-tanee- that I had evperieuced, fet'ling that we
could not remain amontr-t them it' thi'\ h.id tire-arm-.

it will be pro|M'i' to state here that

\e have at a \ery late |H'rio(

1 of

our Slav

identified this chief as the same who lollowed and annoyed ( 'ommai'.'ler Pulle
at Point Meren- in I's-lO. full ]>articu!ar- of which are given in his ji c'riial.

i-ldei

!(• ex]'re--ed a wis
man, V. i

sh t(

went II]), a

iiid

toiiiKl a l:ir"'e,

i-rful.

til a |ieeiiiiarly bad ex|ire--ion of countenaiice. lie had ii
Hiid-on- liav irusket, with the name of IJarnett on the lock; it was ii good

powder horn hiinging lumter-tiishion

[il worn, but tit lor -erv ice

hail

under hi> left arm, but pn'tended to have m itiier ball nor shot, f

or w

hieh h

inos

t pre-sing, and vvould not di-po-e of anv thinu ixeejit f

or ainmumtioii.

a- a tnatter of coiir-e, he was n<tt >iipi)lied with. I -aluteil him with nmch

frieiK

III

p, ma<le hi- wife a pri'sent.

tf)ok

liini ilowii to mv cabm, when

made timi a

-em 111 11

acci

,1 ..

Then F took him on deck with th

(! hi- ciiriositv al)out the ship h»"low.

that 1

le won

Id go away, but nothing

160

seemed furtlu'V from his thought. remairud about the iledw jdkI nlipped

down the hutohwiiys on to the lower ucek several times— a part out' the ship they
have not had access to during any period of our stay. During the forenooo
several u-mi-aks arrived alongside the ship, discharging thetr crews in swurms
on our deck, so as literally to crowd it tor the day. 'ITiev were allowed every
freedom consistent witli tlieir known propensity fcir stealing ; but some, bolder
than others, were ditticult to deal with. One man attempted to force back the
after ladder doors, and my stopping him brought about a slight scuffle between
us. That did not seem to have satisfied him, as he soon afterwards came in contact
with the quartermaster of the watch, a quiet but .-atlier short tempered, powerful
young man, who, before anybody could interfere, gave him a lesson he will not
soon forget ; he dealt him fair Knglish blows about the hea«ii, each ol' them
sufficient to stun any ont except an Esquimiiux; but he received them until it
had the el^iect of quite taming him, when he was put over the side in the
presence of at least sixty of his countrymen, few of whom offered to interfiens,
and the remit ier looked on with indifii lence. About noon, when at my par-
ticular desire, three parts of the crowd went away, the remainder were evidently
detained by the old chief, whom there was no moving out of the ship without
having recourse to force, and this I had no intention of, preferring to wait until
he got tired of his visit, and this seemed unlikely for the present, as he hailed
three u-mi-aks full of people to come alongside." I heard the word " tawac "
(tobacco) used very often, I supposed as the inducement, and the children 1
observed had been sent away. It occurred to me they might have thoughts
of pillaging the ship, their n ambers to ours seeming so overpowering. In order
to he prepared for anything of the kind the men stationed on deck were sent
down one at a time to arm themselves with pistols to be kept out of sight in
their breasts, in the event of a simultaneous attack iK'ing made with their knives,
all l)eing provided with good ones and adepts in their use. When the men were
all armed I was satisfied to wait the result. \ silence seemed to prevail, as if
they had not decided what to do, and whether they had or had not meditated
any mischief beyond stealing as nuich as they could ; they attempted nothing,
and went away as night came on, leaving the old chief with his own boat only.
He had continued to range about the ship in the most insolent way, and I think
it reasonable to suppose it was only the fear of our fire-arms that kept him from
mischief. When left by himself I was cautious not to mge his going away, as
I had done when there were seventy people with him, but letting him choose his
own time he remained until 7 i'M- — a visit <if twelve hours. Whin he was gone
I was so thoroughly tired and provoked, and knowing that every person in the
ship must be suffering in the same way, it became necessary to adopt a different
system, the number of small articles stolen during the day, notwithstanding all
our vigilance, affording sufficient pretext for the change. All work was stopped
the next day, and an efficient arrangement made to allow only one boat's crex-*
on board at a time, and whatever dissatisfaction it might give, it was necessary
to adopt it.

It seems necessary to mention here the ditticulty of keeping a numerous tribe
of natives out of a vessel like the "Plover," us the ice chocks make a convenient
landing-place on the outside, not more tiian four feet from the water, running
the 'vhole length on both sides, where they mount in all directions, and in some
cascj when prevented they cut at our men's legs with their knives, and in one or
two instances cut through box cloth trousers. Whilst the knives of some were
engaged in this way, those of others were busily employed cutting the lead
siC'ipper pipes out of the side ; the nails of the copper were proof against them,
but no part of the side escaped their attempts. From this cause it liecame
necessary to cover all the parts assailable outside with a sheathing of wo(m1, and
after the ship wa;; frozen in she was enclosed round with a chain rove through
posts fixed in the ice at tli? distance of seven yards from the side. 1 his arrange-
ment, although very unpopular, was found most beneficial.

The day succeeding the one last descrilK'd the chief was observed sitting on
the spit dose to tin- ship, and I was told had hailed the sliip as if he wished to
be sent for. This 1 thought too good a joke. He was soon afterwards picked
up by his own boat and came alongside, but to his surprise was not allowed on
board, as so many things Itnd been stolen the previous day. During tlie time
hr> \\a< aiiindinir on 1 lie ii-uni>>i iv tl\(< f'vi'w hunnciK'd to hi' cleiimniT, (iischiu'irintr.
and reloadint; their arms, and examining the twocarronades, at which he seemed

ifl

170

to stare a good deal and went away. Several u-ini>iik8 arrived alongHide, a8
usual, during the day ; but none of the crews were .iii,)wo(l on Iioard, Some
bartering WHS carried on and a tow presents made to them, hut they Heemcd
to prefer adding to their stock l)v stealing to iiny exehunge.

The following morning we had another early visit I'rom tl>e cliief, accompanied
by iome other wading men. They brought, as a pi'iu'c offering, uU the urticleR
•tolen from the ship for several days. 1 nis I considered very sutisfactor^ , and
permitted them to come on board; they renuiincd the whole day, hut their
conduct was altered very much for the bettor, narticidarly the old chief, who was
now content to remain on the quai-ter-deck, to which tliey were restricted. I think
the display of our ckaning arms before the chief on the day previous, led him
to imagine wo were intent on doing them mischief, and seemed to accoiuit for
this sudden change in their manner.

The system of keeping them out of the ship except with ])ennissioii, and then
to a very limited number only, In'ing once commenced, it was continued
throughout our stay ; and although it was very ditticult to make them under-
stand the necessity for it, which made it disliked, and was the cause of some ill-
feeling towards us, it was impossible, through their nuinlters and want of honesty,
to a<lopt any other course. At first we endeavoured to explain to them that we
wishecl all to come on board in tiim, but so far from entering into this view,
those who were admitted and remained the whole day, would in\iiriahly be the
first alongside on the following morning, and lie the most clamorous and least
satisfied of those not admitted. These disappointnients at not being allowed cm
board, were retaliated in one or two instances by parties landing and carrying
away our drift wood collected in a stack on the spit near tiie ship ; this was
found too laborious a revenge tor them, and fire was tried, but a boat being sent
they pretended it was an accident, and did not repeat it.

On the occasion of our cutting into winter (juartors, our men being of neces-
sity much spread about on the ice, and frequently surrounded by tliroe times
their numl)er of -natives, nnich caution was necessary to prevent the tools from
being stolen, and manv slight squabbles took place Ix'tween our men and tlioirs
in consequence of their playing them tricks and trying to trip them up. On
these occasions they always selected those of our iH'ople, who, from their apjK'ar-
unce were least likely to resent their jokes, and in some instances they found
they had mistaken their men. Points of tliis sort were the most diHieult for a
connnanding officer to deal with, as it was not possifilc tor Iiim to prevent the
provocation, and when not resented the motives were misunderstood.

A more serious affair took phice on board tiie ship ; the officer in charge,
Mr. Hull, second master, in keeping back a large powerful man that uttcniptod
to force his way over the side, had a knife drawn on iiim by a friend of the
other's on board the ship, who innnediately called out for the women and
children to retire. Mr. Simpson the surgeon wa« standing near, and very soon
produced liefore the man with the knife one of Colt's rexolving pistols, and
explained to him the use of its ^ix charges, which had the etl'ect of keeping
them very quiet for the remainder of the day. I met the women and children
retreating over the ice ahead of the ship, and thought sometliing must have
happened, although they told me they were going home to dance. A chief
arriving at the same time re-assured the retreating party, when we explained to
them that if they used knives we must use guns, but otiierwise we wished to l)e
good friends. Similar squabbles took place ireciuently whilst oiu- men were
employed building the storehouse; knive> were drawn as usual, and in two
instances the women and children were sent away. This w as a cause of a good
deal of anxiety with me, as our men being uiiarnud were very much at their
mercy under such circumstances, and in the event of iinning ihein, more forbear-
ance was necessary than some of tiiem w»)uld have been found to possess, from the
frequent provocations they had received in return for tlie usual kindness and
good nature that characterize seamen. On giving the subject every conside-
ration, and seeing that it must excite an un])ie;i-ant ieeling for our men \o
have knives pointed "t them without a lueans ot defence lieing at hand, the
quarter-master of the watch and two petty officers of the party working on shore
were armed with pistols, but propt'riv c utioned not to produce them imless
under circumstances of necessity, as 1 hoped the mere knowle(ige of their having
them would Ik' sutlicient. Of this we soon had an instance. One of them played
ofl" one of their usual practical jokes on one of oi'r men by kicking him in the back of

17*

ckof

the kneefl when carrying a spar, for which he was rewarded with a blow on th 'ace )
hv then drew liis knife, when the corporal of marines coming up, and l)eing k.-own
to liave a pistol, the offender inn away. These sort of annoyances continued
as long as our men had work to do outside of the ship ; and when the natives
were collected i.i any numbers, the difference of character displayed by them
when so, and tiie reverse, is worthy of remark In the former case they are
bolder and overbearing, and when meet'np with parties gather round them, and
ajpparentlv in a half ])layful way, commence shoving them about and feeling
their clothes, when, if they fail in getting what they want given to them, they
help themsehes, and with their knives soon remove any buttons that happen
to be bright. This was all done and the offenders mixed up with the rest,
enjoying the thing as a ;i[ood joke before our people coidd look round them.
On the contrary, when they are in small numl)cr«, they are not like the same
licoplc, but seem (juiet, harmless, inoffensive, and obliging; even while displaying
hcse good (lualitics, should their numbers l)ecome increased, they lose no time
in throwing off' their assumed humility to join in any plunder going on.

In landing our provisions, I was particularly careful to point out to the chief
and other leading men, that nothing was going on shore, the nature of which
they could not see, excep'. salt meat, which was really the case, and this I knew
they would not eat if it was given them, and on the day that all was landed, and
the house locked, I showed them the carronade, pointed at it, and told them it
was to keej) tlii(!ves away, thinking that a show of preparation would have the
effect of saving us from any attempt at robbery on their part; but I have every
reason to believe that some of those on board at the titne were leaders in breaking
into it three nights afterwards, when fortiuiatoly three sinail sails (ship's) were
the onlv things they succeeded in taking away. A case of flour contained in
tins, belonging to tlie officers, had been opened, but not found to be tobacco ns
anticiputed, and not liking to go away empty handed, they had taken the sails.
I was quite luiprepared for this tlicit, wliicli was effected in the night, notwith-
standing a strict watcii liad l)oen kept from the ship and the house was visited
every hour, as I had l)cen told i)y the officers of the irliip acquainted with their
character, they would never attempt anything greater than pilfering small things
lying about, 'i'iiis lliere was no remedy for, except keepnig a go<xl look-out.
Now they liad conimenecd on a large scale, I had to consider the best mode of
checking them before anything of a more serious nature should be attempted.

A slight show of fire-arms in the way of intimidation in all oiu' former cases,
had the effect of rcstoiing the stolen articlcfc, and with a view to the same cflx-ct,
I had a small brass three- pounder mounted on a sledge, intending to threaten
them with a visit if the sails wen' not returned. By the arrival of a native, who
came every morning with dogs' food, we were informed that, during the time of
sleep, -ioine people liad conuuittcd the robbery, showing plainly that the affair
was well known at the settlement. Our people had in the meantime tracked
them <mthe snow '. within ashort distance of it, when the sails had been opened
nnd mo.^t probably .ided. About 9 a.m. the chief came down, assuming a very
determined air, with ii. nmsket slung across his shoulders to offer his assistance,
and go with us for the recovery of our sails; but as he proposed leading us to
Cane Snivth, where he said they had been taken, and stoutly denied their being
at I'oint l^aIr()^^•, his servicer were declined..

I nuist mention here th;it this was the common excuse with them, when any-
thing was stolen, they in\ mi iably pointed to Cape Smyth, and said the things had
been taken tlicie. [i'lK-caine sd well understood at last that no notice was taken
of it, jiarticnliirly ii; the present instance.

The chief, after some hesitation, came on board, when it was explained to him
that we were quite aware where the sails were, and if they were not restored, I
should take the gun (which I showed him mounted) to their settlement to look
for them ; at the same time I thought the opportunity of haying his musket in
my power too good a one to be lost, and took possession of it, telling him that
wiua he IkkI biongh ' ".ck everything that had been stolen from us, it woidd be
returned quite safe.

This appeared topliuohini in a serious difficulty, and after repeating the Cape
Smyth -tor\ a good many times, he returned to the town, and we Avent on Avith
our^vork ns usual, intending to wait the result of his interference. In about two
hours he came again witl "some evasive story, that they were going to bring
the sails down ' He remained outs-de the ship evidently much distuvlwd but

Y 2

til

I 1

i I

17-^

not misttrustlul; there wero also a few others, women an«l children, and one
sU'dge.

We now olwerved with onr ^lllMseH iiii iiniiHinil stir ut the ncttlenient. In the
first place, some women and children were set-n moving across the bay to t/'ape
Smyth ; afterwards the men were seen advancing down towards the ship, in three
single files, armed with their Ik)ws and ariowt and (|uivers. I fancied a', this
time I saw siK'ars also, hut did not. observe them alterward> The leading . ">i
were discharging their arrows ahead of them iisthey advanced, picking tl ■ . up
again as they reached them, which satisfied me tlieir visit was not friendly, and
my mim! ^ c* ooon made up to keen them in check at the distance of musket
range, b^ i.riiig over their nea<ls, wishing alxive all things to avoid taking a life,
u.ikss under some urgent necessity. Our small !■ .re, forty-one in all, was
placed under command of the ofticTs appointed t . rd the gangways, poop,
and forecastle ; and previous to their getting wiiiun range, a blank charge was
fired from our eighteen-poundercnrrt made, and the thrce-poimd brass ^un, which
had not the effect of dispersing them, as I expected, and when withm musket-
range, we commenced firmg over them from the forecastle. This had tlic effect
of disperiung them under shelter of the spit about fifty yards from the ship's
Iwws. At this time one of the chiefs, who had l)een on Iwiard freijuently and
treated with every kindness, made a rush down ahead of the ship followed at
first by others ; but when he found the balls whistling over his head lie dropped on
his face to avoid them, running a few paces closer to the ship, threw down his
bow and quiver containing seventeen arrows, <our of them with barlx?d iron
heads. This man had Iwcome very unpopular with the crew from some uncivil
acts of his, and I iiavc In-en able to understand since, that although the order to
fire over his head was carried out, this direction was very n\uch mfringed upon.
A few now extended themselves under ci/ver ot the house, but as a constant fire
was kept up in that direction, not many attempted • reacii it, and a round shot
being fired so as to graze it, had the etl'ect of disloo^^ng them. At this time a
false alarm was given, that they were breaking down the house and carrying
things away. I was on the forecastle and on hearing the rcjwrt, ordered the
man next me, a marine, to fire at a man then escaping from under cover of it,
and from the sudden way he seemed to tall and kick out his legs, I thought he
was killed. Inunediatcly afterwards the report was found to Ik- incorrect, and
no more shots were fired at them; and I had the satisfaction to find out tl»at
the man fired at (the only instance; was not killed.

A* the chief, who had l)cen lying concealed under an ice humniock not far
fjti'n v\c ship, arid wljo I suppose now saw no chance of gaining an advantage
X er « : with his nuinl)ers, snowed himself and Ix-ckoned them back in a most
KiKNct^^'-tic manner, causing a general retreat, and as our masthead aftbrded a
commanding view, I was glad to find that they were all able to use their legs
qulUi as well going home as they did '>ming out.

Although this affair would give then' a poor idea of us as marksmen, not
appreciating our motives, I considered . .t some of them heard the ball suffi-
ciently close to their cars not to wish for a rejx'tition. Mr. Simpson, the surgeon,
counted seventy-one, and allows himself to have overlooked ten ; he computes
the nuinlK-r at eighty, iK-sides several stragglers, a computation I consider as
near as could be ol)taiiied.

The chief, with another man, stayed about the ship for some time ; but as no
compromise short of the immediate return of our stores was contemplated, he was
not allowed to rcniHin long. My having his gun was an advantage I could
hardly have expected, and as its value to him was far greater thin anything they
had stolen iVom us, I was content to wnit the result of his iiitcrferencc, in the
meantime not allowing any of them within gunshot untii everything was returned.

On the following day we had a pacific message, to the efiect that they were
all asleep that day. but on the next all our things would Ik' brought down.
They had not left the spot they had advanced to, when I took a party away
from the ship to try the range of the gun in a sledge, and to find how it would
answer. I was glatf they saw us mano-uvring it, and as they still remained alter
motioning them to go away, a musket was fired wide of them as a hint to l)c
off and report what they had seen, w liicli I hojK'd would have the efiect of <piick-
ening their riiovem«ait8, iu returning our sails. At 7 a.m. on the following day,
the chief, with aevcn natives and a sledge, brought dow n the sails, — a maintop-
mast staysail, and mixen trysail, and a Intat's cover, all much worn and of no

¥>■■

178

importance to us ; but the act wuh the same and required checking, ic- other
thingfl we might t'eel the Kwn of tthould be stolen aUo. I wa» told the party
■ecmed in evinent tre|)i(lati()n. 'I'hc sailn had Iwen cut into Hcveral pieces, adapted
in (tize I'or their u-nn-aks' suilH, and had been m-rved out amongst tlie party.
This would account for the difficulty the cliiel iiad in getting ti>ein returned,
witliout having a Nlight brush for them previously. All the pieces were most
ingeniously drawn together by the women, wln) had l)een employed the previous
day and night about them, which occasioned the day'« delay in their Wing
returned. As it was necessary, wliil< we were settling matters, to have a full resti-
tution of everything stolen from ti shij) mid boats since our arrival, a careful
inquiry was made to find out everv missing article; and as these included almost
all the ironwork of the launch, which had been cut almost to pieces in the most
vexatious way while turned bottom up on the adjacent island, I was the more
disposed to push this point. When the lull extent was known, the chief
was acquainted that every 1 1' must be returned prcvioi ^ to his getting his gun,
or the natives alio*" d to cu. c near the ship, lie then left and returned next
morning with every missing article, when his gun was restored to him, and the
native* <ame alMmt us a> usual. 1 had the curiosity to examine the charge of

his gun whiNt it
could hav dm
ainmunitiun.

I made hir i s
a partaker in
very industriu
IukI been obligt
thieves to give up
hand of them witiiou

in oin 'i.inds, and found it us well loaded with bull ' < vt
'ir ' ',, although he had previously told us he h'.< i ,.

,,•1 M-

•nt of tobacco U,r his trouble, as I believe h^
, a " ! gave one of his wives a knife, as she had bf •.•.
g tue sails together. He made us understand that he
knife, as well as his authority, to compel some of the
ire oi' the booty. I was glad to have got the upper
V further trouble on our part, as, independent of the
more important moti\i > before mentioned, our own travelling parties might be
seriously inconvenieiued from being at variance witii them.

Notwithstanding these considerations it is most iiecessnrv for our preservation
with such II |)eople to establish respect from them by a moderate resistance upon
any undue encroachment on their part.

Had we not Iteen emplosed on a service essentially of peace, I should have
taken a party up to their settlement in the way of retaliation, on tiiiding they
had broken into our store. 1 am not certain that it would not have been the
better plan in the present ease, as kindness and lorbearance are not umierstood
by them, particularly after being fired upon once or twice without receiving any
injury, they are likely to form an erroneous opinion as to the power of fire-arms,
many of the preseiii party, including the chief, being the same who followed
Commander I'ullen so pertmueiously ulongthe Uetuni lleef of Sir John Franklin,
when the system of avoiding firing at them was adopted until the last eytreniity,
and with the same good fortune in not sacrificing any lives. As an insiance of
their ingratitude, I found many who were engaged in the robbery of the house
were of those who had Ix^en allowed on board every day, and hacl received con-
siderable presents with the view of making friends of them in the event of our
requiring a kindness in return. Whilst our misunderstanding was unsettled a
further enclosure was marked out to include the ship, house, and observatory.
Hound this a stout hawser was supported on small triangles, and in no instance
during the remainder of our stay was this boundarv, which necessity had given
us good excuse for establishing, allowed to be infringed upon, A few trouble-
some characters, such as will be found in all large communities, gave annoyance
occasionally for a month or two by shoving each other purposely inside the
boundary. When finding tiieir tricks provoked hard blows, little more trouble
was given in this wuy.

Out intercourse fnmi this time went on smoother, and the Ksquimaux, feeling
themselves in error, seemed to make many friendly overtures to regain our
CvSteem. Some of these consisted in bringing down their tambourines alongside,
and dancing and singing in large numbers. In this they had, in some degree,
anticipated my intentions, as the oflicers were at the same time engaged in printing
a notice for the lower deck of a " Native Dance," intended to be given in three
days' time, with the view of showing them we bore no ill-will, and wished for a
friendly intercourse ; and us it was to be the commencement of our winter
festivities, and headed " (Jreat Novelty," it had the desired ettect of producing

V-

^ '\\

ovktiiijmi

•tir\ll(ru

f *hl

Y 3

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^^ .S^^dp.

1.0

I.I

■^ 1^ ill 2.2

III 1.8

1.25 1.4 1.6

►

Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

»qO

'^y.:^

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4503

/!^*

^.%^

w^.

.(' '

174

At 4 P.M.,' Octobei* the 28th, our visitors wfcre admitted to the number ci
seventy. After they were mnde to seat themselves round the deck, the enter-
tainment, commenced by serving each with a little tobacco ; then our musicAl
instniments (a violin, coruopeian, drum, and triangle) played a lively air, which
caused a general exclamation of wonder and pleasure, most of the party now
hearing them for the first time. This was followed by a retjueHt for them to
dance, and being supplied with a drmn they willingly complied. Our seamen
danced in their turn, and in a little time the natives entered fully into the sj/irit
of the amusement, stripping off their skin coats and dancing naked to the waist
with the temperature at +o , showing the state of excitement they work them-
selves into, as the male performers about in a wild triumphant manner, and all
the lookers-on join in a chorus and become as much excited as the performers :
their appearance makes a scene us savage as can be well imagined. By 10 p.m.
the party broke up, all appearing to have had dancing enough ; the whole com-
pany seemingly pleased with their evening's amusement. When we came to
take down a few flags that were hung undei the housing for ornament, it was
vexing to find several large pieces cut out of them as if in handfuls. The
chief and some others remaining appeared sorry, and promised the pieces should
be returned, which was faithfully done the next morning.

On the following day I paid a visit to the village, accompanied by Mr.
Simpson, the surgeon. We were followed by several idlers Irom about the
ship, who, as we ueiucd the huts, spread the report of our arrival, which soon
caused a great crowd to gather round us following to the chiefs hut, where we
found him on his housetop ready to icceive us. The winter huts were now
covered with snow ; the chief's stood about five feet above the ground, with a
square openinu; at one end, into which we followed throiigh a low dark passage
sloping downwards for five or six \ards, when we stood beneath tlie open-
ing in the floor of the inhabited part of the hut. It is eirculnr in form,
just hxTgv enough to admit one jjcrson nt a time. Passing through it we sto >d
upon a smooth boarded floor, alwut l6ft. by 10ft. ; the roof was seven feet
high, and in the centre was a small squire skylight, covered with transparent
whale membrane.

The transition from the daylight and glare to the dark passage wasi siudden,
and in some degree prepared our eyes for taking in at the first glance ^'bp nn-
pearonce within. We were placd in the centre of the hut ; the chief, with a
wife on each side of him, sat opposite to as. There were four or five 3'oung
men, and two women with children, lying alwut the floor, all naked to the waist,
the children perfectly so. The first breath of the interior was ratiicr oifcnsive,
but we so(m got accustomed to it, an<l as the temperature was already high,
being followed by a number of men whom it seemed impossiiile to accomino<Iate
in so small a space, it soon became insufferably hot, ^vnen the temperature was
easily reduced by cutting a hole through the skylight, which made a very
agreeable and necessary change in the air we were breathing.

Our visit seemed to give great satisfaction, and was commenced with a smoke,
according to their method of doing evctything. Tor the remainder of the time,
about an hour, I endeavoured to find out from them how far the nearest winter
settlement of natives was east of this place, with the view of conununicafing
with them Iwfore the severity of the winter set in; but I could not make out
anytlung very clear from tiiem. We have u great difficulty in making them
understand that our business is not bartering, as their ideas do not extend
beyond that, although from our constant repetition they appear to be aware
tlmt we arc waiting for two ships that have gone far away into the ice. The
chiers was the only house we visited, and returning licrcss fhi' bay to the
ship we were acconinanicd by a younp; man and a boy, who talked a great deal
more than we could understand ; but the former, in explaining to ns the
sort of tobacco that liad l)cen gi\cn liini on boartl a ship, twisting his fingers
together to describe American twist, or negrohead, led us in his description
of the vessel to b.Mieve it might have brcn the "In\ I'stigator" or "Kntcrprizc"
leaving tlie ice this last season, but we were afraid of giving way to our
credulity in supposing it to he either of them. As they willingly accompanied
us on hoard 1 was glad to avail myself of Lieutenant Vernon's knowledge of
the laiiguagc to sift their stoiy more tlioroughly. lie allowed tlicm niost
patiently to describe all they had seen in their own way, and eventually ascer-
tained that the ship they were on hoard of iiad diagonal decks, and' an ice-

chock larger than the " Plover's." The illuminators in the deck they remarked
were square ; these are the points that seem to have caught their attention, and
were sufficient to show that they had been on board one or other of the ships,
but when the captain was described as wearing spectacles Captain CoUinson
was identified. The remaining point of importance was, that she was gone to
the eastward the summer before last (1851), agreeing with the time the
" Enterprize" passed. In the spring of this year I stood on the point from
which she liad been boarded, with the native who gave this information. It is
Cape CJovernor Simpson, and forms the western point of Smyth's Bay, distant
about forty-five miles to the eastward of Point Barrow. The " Enterprize"
seems - have been delayed off it with light .vinds, but on a breeze
springing,' up she was lost sight of to the eastward. Two umiaks got alongside
of her, and the people speak with pleasure of the presents they received, and it
is worthy of notice that a particular kind of tobacco with which we know the
" Enterprize" to have been provided, led to a voluntary description of their
having boarded a ship, affordmg more information in a few minutes than all our
inquiries of the chiefs and others in several months had done.

After some experience with them we found more information was obtained
by casual observations of their own brought about by something they might
happen to sec or have shown them, than by asking direct questions, as it seems
dinicult to lead their thoughts from the passing events aromid them.

On the evening of the 6th November the crew had a little recreation with the
immolation of Guy Fawkes, and the natives, being told that he was a " big
thief," were at great pains to get an opportwnity of expressing individually that
they were not thieves, which was very amusing, and seemed as if they expected
to be treated similarly. The ceremony concluded with a rocket, on which
they retired to a distance in dismay, and were evidently much impressed with
the whole proceeding. They were afterwards gratified with a dance on board,
which seemed to restore their confidence, and closed the amusements for
the day.

As some of the crew had expressed a wish to sec the Esquimaux village, and
understanding there had been an invitation from one of the chiefs to witness
a dance, I gave eight men leave on the afternoon of the 21st of November.
All went well ^vith them until one of our party, a quarter-master who had been
obliged to handle one of the natives rather roughly on his attempting to force
his way into the observatory, was recognised by his old antagonist, who
became furious with passion and immediately attacked him, but was prevented
by others from using his knife. Ho then endeavoured to get some of our

Seople to his hut, who seeing he had some weapon concealed in his sleeve
eclincd, when several of the Esquimaux hustled and tripped up our men, who
still had protectors sufficient amongst the crowd to bring them away in satiety.
One man, the carpcntLi'ss uuilC, who by some means got left by his companions,
was seized round the arms by two men, whilst the man who attacked the
quarter-master picked his pockets of some tobacco and beads he had taken with
him for the kind purpose of distributing amongst them. The chief was very
much put out by the affair, and tried to get some of our people to his hut; his
gre t aim being to get aunpowder, I suppose he fancied this display of feeling
would not l)c favoura'>]i^ ta his wishes.

Ailter this attempt at a friendly intercourse, we all ceased going to the villat^e
for upwards of two months ; when seeing no inclination on the part of the men
to renew their visit, I found if we pursued the system of holding back, a valuable
opportunity would be lost of acquiring a knowledge of their habits which it
would be interesting to In-comc acquainted with, and for this purpose the officers
■gain went occasionally to the settlement, taking care to go with some influential
man who kept away those inclined to be troublesome.

This was again very soon put a stop to, by our not allowing the man to come
to the ship who had behaved so badly when our men were at the huts, and in
enforcing this measure we went near to having another afi'ray with them. He
had been to the ship several times since the occurrence took place, and on being
told, always went away. On the occasion in (juestion, he evidently intended
to remain and to get up a disturbance if possible. The chief, who was on board,
seeing this, went outside and tried to get him away, to no avail, and another chief
tried also. The title of " chief" given here is merely nominal, as in a commu-
nity where every man has to pivviue for his ov.-n wants, the most industrious,

^ I

bold, nnd succcsshil hunter iK'c-omes, from the property he possesses, of more
consideration than those not possessing those qualities, but this does not extend
beyond his own boat's crew or hunting party for the time being. Seeing thia
man was resolved to remain whether we pleased or not, I thought it necessary
to have our own way as to who should visit the ships or who not, and as his
conduct was well known to his countrvraen, and condemned by many of them,
his case was a good one to enforce. The great objection to anv sort of disturb-
ance, was the difficulty of making the well disposed understanc^ our motives, or
the separation of one from the rest as bad, and these cases rarely occurred,
except when they were collected in large numbers, which made them imagine
thev could do as" they pleased. While tlie altercation was going on outside, the
natives on Iwaid, of whom there were several, began to leave the ship, although
most of them had been visitors and declared friends, without, as it appeared,
possessing any confidence in us. I then directed Lieutenant Vernon to go out,
and once more tell him to go away. The natives thinking he was the leader of an
attacking party — two-thirds of the men, and all the women and children walked
straight away for the village, leaving the bad character in the minority, which
he had sufficient tact to discover, and followed the others, when quietness was
again restored — and those who had made such a hasty retreat out of the ship
were now anxious to return again, but others were chosen in preference from
those who had remained as spectators, and were apparently indiffii'rent. The crew
were at dinner at the time and they were not disturlK>d, as our state, with regard
to anns, is one of constant readiness. The chief afterwards told me very
impressively not to go to the village, a privation very little felt personally, but
showing the absence of control on the part of the chiefs when our being at
variance with one individual of bad character put an end to a friendly commu-
nication between us and a whole tribe.

He continued to make us visits at intervals, of two or three days, when to put
a stop to them, on one occasion, when Lieutenant Vernon had with great good
nature and patience walked with him a considerable distance from the ship and
letl him to return, he followed him back leisurely ; when I saw there was no
means of dealing with him by kindness, and ordered two marines witii muskets
outside, on the ice, to prevent his further advance to the ship. On seeing them
he seemetl to fly into a great ^tate of excitement, and presented his breast to \k
fired at, when one or two well-disposed individuals took him away, and he did
not repeat his ^•isits again for some time ; when l)eing told by the chiefs that he
was now goo<l, I was glad of an opportunity to come to terms with him, seeing
that disputes would do us no good, however much we iuul right on our side — and
as I thought we had established oiu' jioint of keeping him away, to as great an
extent as could Ik- expected with a sav:i"<', it was explained to him by one of
tlic chiefs that he was to go away, and vo intended thut he should remain,

a message would be sent to him. ' standing this he went away much

pleased, and «)n l)eing sent to in a few days, he came down in his best clothes
and behaviour and was allowed to remain, which put an end to all disputes
between us.

During this day, which was fine and clear, with a temperature at 23", we !iad
eighteen natives inlwurd, and seventy-two were counted outside, or in sight of
the ship, making ni nety in all, men, women and children, a number not
unfrequent in the depth of winter when they were not engaged hunting. No
temperature whs too severe to keep them away, with the thennometer at 30*
and 40" Ix-low zero ; thev commenced arriving alongside as early as 6 a.m., throe
and iour hours l)efore daylight, and those not admitted on Iwurd, sat on the
snow laughing and playing alxxit as cheerfully as we should have done in sun-
shine. A party of six at this time had a narrow escape I'rom being starved on
the ice on which they were adritt for six days. They went out to hunt the
white bear, when ihe flo(> became detached and drifted into the ojM^n water.
They were saved from this perilous situation by the chance of its being again
brought in contact with the land floe. Although the weather was very
severe, so perfect is their clothing, that the only injury they received was some
frost-bites about the face : as thev were without ftxxl, a description of their
sufl'erings would be one of thrilling interest, if we could understand their
language sufficiently to appreciate it.

A short time afterwards, on a general break up of the ice, one man was carried
away and lost, i'^inding he had left u wite and two children, I sent a messagv^

177

to her to come to the ship, and on making her some useful presents, I endeavoured
to have explained to a party assembled that our business here was looking after
people who were also in the ice, hoping it would have a tendency to gain their
assistance and friendship in favour of any of our parties tnuelling along the
coasts they frequent. -

Several stratagems were tried to find out if we were on the look-out at night ;
small parties, generally two or three women, came alongside, and on being sent
away, would make some excuse of goini; out sealing, or some such pretence, to
keep in our neighbourhood, but our watch was always too vigilant for them.
One man was caugiit in tlie middle watch, coming out of a tent erected over a theo-
dolite on the ice close to the ship, and was brought on board a prisoner. As he had
not been able to steal anything the case was not strong enc/Ugh to inflict any
punishment on him, and he was permitted to go away the following day at noon,
with the promise of a good thrashing if he was caught again. While he was on
board only four or five women, and the chief came near us. I was glad to see
the latter, as he witnessed our leniency on the occasion, but he seemed indifferent
as to whether we iiad punished him or not. This detection put a stop to their
nightly excursions and left us unmolested.

A few of them from the first showed disinterested partiality to us, which was
appreciated, and they were invited to sleep on board on a few rare occasions.
For some time they were nervous about it, but umstered courage enough after a
little time. My object in allowing them to do so was to give them confidence
and let them see some more of our habits, which I thought would raise us in
their estimation.

In the early part of February we were startled by a native report that a large
ship with a great mnny men was wintering to the southward at Point Hope. A

Earty Iwlonging to Cape Smyth had lately returned from Point Hope (a journey
■equently made by them in the winter), and had, it was said, been on board the
ship ; but knowing it to be an impossibility for a ship to winter there, not much
attention was paid to it, Iwyond thinking there generally exists some grounds for
such reports, and when well sifted they can sometimes be traced out. The

f resent report seemed to be a forerunner of a party of natives belonging to
'oint Hope, who arrived at Point Barrow about this time, and soon afterwards
visited the ship. The information received from them was of there being a large
ship somewhere to the south with very little men on board ; whether we mistook
their " little" for few — or most likely it was one of many such stories these people
have amongst them from the habit of repeating them one to the other without
reference to the d; te, as in this case, if the story mentioned was traced to its
source, it would most likely prove to be some whaler visited by them in the
summer.

This circumstance is mentioned to account for the way reports are carried
along a great extent of coast by natives meeting for a short time for the purpose
of barter, and at considerable distances from their respective settlements, when,
as may naturally lie supposed, an interchange of news takes place, and thus
becomes extended onwards subject to such change of version as the repeating
tribes are likely to give it, making it necessary to consider their reports well
before taking much notice of them, unless accompanied by some token of their
authoiity.

The chief of this party was a pleasing, spirited man, about thirty-five years of
age, and was accompanied by his two wives, who were good-looking young-
women. He had come on a bartering expedition to dispose of some copper
kettles, iecei\ing glutton skins in exchange. He recognised Mr. Simpson, the
surgeon, as having seen him at Hotham's Inlet, and he was also familiar with the
name of Captain Moore and some of the former officers of the ship. He
described his journey to us, of which I was anxious to get the particulars. He
had slept fifteen times, eight of them on the snow, but he showed no signs of
having suffered from coid. He described the sea as being open all along the
coast to the southward, but he was not familiar with ships, which I accounted
for by the lowness of the land about Point Hope deterring the whalers from
closing it, otherwise there are many in that latitude in the summer. He seemed
to be a poet, and favoured us with an extempore song of sonu- length,
which included the nunie of the ship and some of our own. Ilo afterwards
passed his hand down his stomach several times, expressive of great friendship,
and then fixed his forehead against mine, and used it as a fulcrum to rub nosc;.
several times, a ceremony not very agreeable in his heated state iioiu sincing

Ml'

il'

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1 i
1

J7X

A chief of this place waj< of the party, wliich made liitn feci quite at bis ease,
otherwise they are mistrustful on the rirst visit. He described his people's
barter with tiie Asiatics of the opposite coast (the Tchuk-chi, or as they call
it, Tsau-chu) to consist of the martin (sable), fox, wolverine, wolf, and bear*
skins, and sometimes whale oil and fish ; for which they j?et in exchange kettles,
tobacco, beads, knives (Russian), and walrus teeth. While he remained he was
a welcome and constant visitor. The southern natives arc far more au^rceable
than those to the northward, wlui have been rarely visited ; the otticers speak of
the former as more fi^rateful and modest, j)articularly the females, while the
latter are thoua;ht im])udent and unj^rateful. On leaving, he sung of the g(K)d
name he should give the ship on his way down the coast, which will Ik- of liencfit
to our boats on their expedition to ('ape Lisburne.

About the middle of Fel)ruary a great many of the natives removed into the
interior to hunt the reindeer, found very numerous on these vast plains, which
form the north-western termination of America. As I was curious to see some-
thing of the country and their mode of living at this inclement season, I thought
my making an excursion to their hunting grounds would show we placed every
confidence in them. I accordingly left the ship on the ist March, accompanied
by Mr. Gordon, mate, two seamen, with a native guide, and sledge drawn by
SIX dogs, carrying tents, guns, and provisions. Our route into the interior was
S.S. W. (true) across snowy plains, differing little in appearance from the bay
ice, except on the approach to a lake, when the rise liecame more sudden, and
being exposed to the sweeping winds, grass was occasionally seen in spots
through the snow, offering, with deer of which we saw a great many, the only thing
worthy of notice. Three days anil a half heavy travelling brought us to ao
encampment on the bank of a river. They had a hole through the ice, which
we found to be seven feet thick, and reaching within one of the bottom. Their
houses difl'ered from tho.ie descril)ed by Captain Parry, in l)eing excavated in
the snow lodged on the river, the ice of which formed a iH.-rfectly even floor.
'J'heir position from outside was only observable by seeing the implements of
chase belonging to the owners in a gnmp over the top. We found them in no
instance wanting in kindness, but their character for begging had not fallen off',
since leaving Point Barrow. Their mode of killing the reindeer is novel, and
such as luture has pointed out. The country is so open that they have no
have no means of approaching tlw animals imder any cover ; the>' therefore dig
deep pits in the snowy ravines, selecting places where the surface is even, to
cover thein lightly over with slabs of snow. The moment the animal puts his
feet upon them he is precipitated into the pit, the depth of which is tw) great
for him to h-ap fW)m.

Having effected my purpose of visiting and going amongst them, 1 returned
to the ship after an absence of seven days, 'i'he position of the place by astro-
nomical observations was S. 4(1, W. 38 miles from the ship.

Nothing further worthy of remark occurred in our intercourse, unti I was
setting out on a journey along the coast to the eastward, when some of the
worst disposed tried to deter a young man from accompanying me as guide by
threatening to follow and murder us when we slept, the guide amongst the number,
upon whom it appeared to have no effect, Ijcyond his repeating the story and
aavising that the men should not Ik- allowed into the ship during my absence.
This report made it evident that the fact of our force being divided had been
talked of, and I felt sorry our residence amongst them for so long had produced
no better feeling, but I considered it necessary to show we were capable of
defending ourselves, and travelling when were found it necessary. If this was
not established, our position, confined to the shin by a tribe of unanned savage.s,
would not be very flattering. With these feelings I set out on my journey,
well satisfied with the resources of my party, and with the judgment and dis-
cretion of the ofticer ( Lieutenant Vernon ) in whose charge the " Plover" was left.
On my return, after an af)sence of twenty-five days, I was glad to find every-
thing going on as favourably as possible. The natives were returning from the
interior in large numbers, and the day previous, "i/th of April, as many as 40
filedges with [y.i [K'opie crossed the bay to the village, from the hunting grounds.

From this time we procured an abundant supply of venison, the only instance
during our stay of receiving any benefit from our proximity to them. It lasted
nearly two months, and had the effect of restoring for a time the health of the
crew, previously much debilitated and exposed to scurvy.

iii

179

The appearance of this disenHe was attrihiitahlc to the great inequality in the
character of some of the provisioiiM, in the older supplies of preserved meats and
flour ; and it became necesHmy to diseontiniio the use of beef altogetlier, and to
increase the issue of the last supply of preserved meats and preserved potatoes.

The season for their whale fisliin^r was now approncliing, and commenced on
the 7th of May; the distance to the open water was about four miles W.
(true) of Point "Barrow. On the 1 ith, hearing tliev had cau<rht a whale, I made
an excursion to the scene, with tlic hope of beinj? In time to see itc distribution,
but on arriving, the only remains we could discover was about half a pound of
blubber, to so good an account do they seem to turn every part of the animal.
We found the open water extending E.N.E. and W.S.W. (true), and no bottom
with ten fathoms. 'I'he ice to the southward seemed open, and I supposed the
water was free in that direction to Hehriiig Straits, it would be interesting to
be able to conjecture its north-eastward extent, the wind blowing, it may be
said, constantly from that cpiarter ; if the ice should happen to be broken, it
must clear a large space of water.

This pursuit occupied them until the 21st of June, when most of their
" oomiaks" were brought to the land to he prepared for their summer journey to
the eastward, previous to which tbey seem to allow themselves ten days' enjoy-
ment, which is piussed in eating, smoking, and dancing ; they then commence
the work of preparation.

Whilst treating on this subject, it is worthy of being mentioned that the
natives state that the whales make their appearance off Point Hope in April and
May, when the ice there breaks up into fields, and that most of them bave dis-
appeared by the time the ships arri\e. About the same time these animals also
appear at this place, and are pursued by the natives in their oomiaks, as men-
tioned before, until June, when few are seen, and in .luly none in this neighbour-
hood, and the people believe they retire northward, to return this way in August
and SepteralK-r. The masters of whaling vessels have informed me that whales
are less abundant in the open water in .Inly and August than in September.

A month previous to this time we eceived, quite by accident, some very useful
information. Two of the officers, Lieut. Vernon and Mr. Simpson (siu-geon)
conversing with one of the chiefs more intelligent and communicative than the
rest, asked him if he had ever seen any boats like ours along the coast, when he
said he had, near the C^olville river. Finding that Mr. Simpson, by turning over
the leaves of C'ommander Pullen's journal, was able to describe the occurrence
that took place, the man unwittingly gave a detail of the whole affair, which
corresponded with the written accounts, even to the wind ; by which it appears
the chief of this place, with his Hudson's Bay gun, — Barnett, 1843 (vide
evidence taken before the Arctic ronnnittce, questions 1384-5-6) is the indi-
vidual described by ('ommander Pullen, and he appears to have taken a lar re
number of men with him to follow the boats. The man afterwards seemed very
uneasy, and was perhaps thrown off his guard when he told so much, but the
ofticers supposed that lie thought if tlie book told so much, they must also be
acquainteu with every circumstance by the same means, and that he was doing
no harm in acknowledging the facts. He was very anxious from the first to
learn the names of Commander Pullen and his companion Lieutenant Hooper
(a prevalent habit with them), but he was not told until he had identified them
in the most minute way. In further conversations connected with the foregoing
circumstance, we were enabled to identify this people as the Western
Esquimaux, and the same man traced out for us the different stages of the
journey. This point had been of doubt with us, supposing the distance from
Point Barrow to Barter Island '210 miles of an exposed coast, it could not be
accomplished by them in the short season of open water, as their skin boats,
when deeply laden, are not adapted for a seaway. These difficulties were
explained by saying they took the boats away on sledges, a month before the
ice breaks up, and the exposed parts of the coast and large bays are avoided by
an inland navigation through ri\(>rs and lakes of which we were ignorant.

The first stage of the journey is the Colville, and occupies ten days, where
they meet a friendly tribe of Esquimaux, called Nuna-tag-miutes (supposed by
Messrs. Dease and Sinijison to be a name for the Russians), but there is no
doubt of their being Esquimaux and wearing the lip ornaments peculiar to
them. They confine themselves to the rivers and land from which their name
it) derived. " Nuna" (land), and have a communication through the rivers of the

Z 2

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iHfl

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interior to the coast, about HothamV Inli-t, iis oiir informant told ua he hod met
11 woman two succi-ssive si-usons at the Colvillc, who hud Iwcn frequently aboard
tills ^liip in Kotzclme Sound in the winter of IH-IJ), and had travelled from there
through till' interior without havinjj; touchc*! ujMin the intermediate eoast.

The journey to the Colville is anticipated in them with nuich uleaHure,
particularly this year, «is they freiiuently spoke of tellinjj; of the wonclers seen
on board this ship, in athlition to the pleasing thoughts of feasting and dancing
they were to enjoy with their friends. From thenee a select party extend
themselves to Barter Island, the women accompanying them to withm a day'«
journey of meeting the eastern people, when the men advance and conclude
their business as expeditiously as |M)ssible. They give an amusing account of
the nuitual distrust that exists between the two parties. The western people
never sleep while they are in sight of the eastern, and all bargains swni to l)e
made knite in liand. The articles and system of bartering appear to Ik* as
descrilH'd by .Sir John Franklin, but I think later writers on the subject have
supposed tliat Russian goods tind their way to the north coast from posts on the
Colville, which we have not been able to verify. This tril)e receives lUissian
(SilK-rian) articles trom the I'oint lloix! people, previously alluded to, which
they convey to the eastward and exchange for Knglish knives procured from the
Hudson's May ])()sts, but there is no intermediate supnlv from the Russians that
we could hear of The journey east from the ("olviUe takes them ten dayti,
which they describe as being made always against the wind ; and the return to
Point Harrow to Point Herens occupies little more than two, which they speak
of sleepinjf in the boats and allowing them to drift i)efbre the wind; this would
make it appear that easterly winds must In- very prevalent in the early part of
August. Mr. Simpson, who has taken much pains to inform himself on the
subject, consider* the ^.'ith of July the time of their departure from the Colville;
this has been further established by the fact of the party who attacked
Commander Pullen on the f)th of August at Return Reef, liemg then on their
return from liarter Island. The time of their annual visit never ditfering
probably three days, as we Have found them generally as accurate in that way
as if tiiey wen- aiquainted with date.N. From this information it may Ix!
concluded that the Ks(]uiniaux make one third of their summer joumies, by
carrying their boats over the ice, — before a ship or her boats become available,
which gives them a season so much longer, at a time when the weather is very
favourable, — tiiis will have U'eii pointed out to them by necessity, from the
shortness of the season of ojhmi water, which if they contined themselves to, it
would limit their excursions to a very short range. Their return for the
winter takes pinee, as we have seen, about the Kith SeptemlRT, and seems to
end their labonr^^ 1 ir the year.

Two (lays after receiving the above intbrmation, May 2()th, a native man was
observed outside the ship wearing a small canvass bag with an address written
on it, — "To the Chief Trader of the Russian settlement, N. America," — which
caused c(msi(lcrable curiosity on our parts, and on making further enquiries he
told us he had the paper in his hut that was originally in it, on which he was
despatclied with the promise of a large rewani of tobacco if he brought it to the
ship. Some hours afterwanls he returned with two torn pieces of paper, com-
plaiu'ng that his little girl had destroyed the rest ; fortunately, the most
important part was preserved, which has l)cen enclosed. This information is so
far safisfactory, as it shows Commander M'Clure to have l)een making his
passage along shore, which has been further confirnie<l by natives here, who
were on board her at Point liirens or Return Reef, where they descrilK* her to
have had an easterly wind with no ice in sight. The " Knterprize," it has l)een
mentioned, was visited the year following not so far to the eastward by eighty
miles. From these position^ it is reasonable to inl'er, they had not again
communicated with the shore to the westward of the Mackenzie, as the natives
of this ])lacc who are in yearly communication with the Ks(|iiimaux who frecjuent
the mouth of that river, have — to our repeated en(|uirics as to whether they had
heard if the ships had l)ccn seen by the other jxHtpJe, — answered thev have not,
or they would have heard of it. It will give some idea of the difficulty of
making the Ksquimaux comprehend the meaning of our notions, when it is
considered the " Investigator " had an interpreter on board, who will have
explained the object of the letter given by Commander M'Clure, and we had
been eight months constantly making enquiries for such things and endesvouring

1st

to explain oiir buHincss here, without the individual charged with the paper
knowing what it woh for ; and ii" the taiivass Img had not been found useful, its
contents would never have l)een known.

In order to impress upon them tiie value of such things as papers and
messages, I gave the man a considerable present of tobacco, very much to his
surprise and that of his comuanions, wiiich had the ettect of producing un old
American song book, the only article of pa|)er remaining in their possession.

1 have now to mention the occurrence of a native man being shot by accident,
which at the time caused us considerable trouble and uneasiness, but eventually
I have had reason to believe it was viewed by most of the Kscpiiniaux in it«
true light.

On the morning in (juestion, June Mth, the quurter-muster of the watch, David
Dunstall, came into my cabin, and infonned me he had had a dreadful misfortune
— and, t«) my horr>/i-, — that he had shot a native alongside the ship, and on
hurrying outside I found the man was shot through the head, and must havo
died instiintaneousiy. The man who had been the cause of the luilooked-for
event showed i)y his manner that it had been an accident, and upon making
some further inijuiries, I found that several natives had arrived alongside the
ship previous to the time they were allowed, and although desired on that
account to go away several times, they could not be induced to do so, and the
quarter master of the watch took out a fowling piece in his han(l, in order to
frighten them, and when motioning with it tor them to go away, it went o(f and
lodged the contents of the barrel in the back part of the poor man's head. The
remainder of the party, live or six, ran away so speedily that there was no
means of overtaking them, and the body being left, it became necessary to con-
sider the best means of disposing of it. We soon afterwards removed it to such
a distance from the ship that the natives could advance to it without fear of us,
and the same time it gave no pretext for coming any nearer to the ship. When
this had been done, and a large quantity of tobacco left with the body as an
intimation of our friendship, all that we could do was to hope that some of our
friends amongst them would still have sufficient confidence to come down and
give us an opportunity of explaining tiiis affair. In this expectation we were
not disappointed, us two of the cliief men came to the ship at once, having,
before leaving the settlement, exerted their influence to quiet the people in their
first outbreak. One of these men, who was rcmurkable tor his intelligence, was
made to comprehend the possibility of such an accident ; and great pains were
taken to show him, that the charge was shot intended for birds, not men. When
this impression was established we recpjested them to go back and explain it to the

[)eople. By the tinv they had arrived at the place where the body had been
eft, a great many hud collected, amongst them the wife and friends of the lui-
fortunatc deceased, but who I was glad to find had left no children. They sat
round, and appeared deeply engaged in conversation for about two hours,
listening, as we supposed, to the explanation ; then they seemed to examine the
body, and his own deer skips having been brought down, he was Avrapped in
them and placed on a sledge ". hich was drawn by his wife leading and four men,
one following, across the bay i> he cemetery, near Point Barrow. None of the
others accompanied the processi' n. A few of them came as usual alongside the
ship, but as they were for the most part of those known not to be friendly to us,
our jHJople were kept on board to avoid any treacherous retaliation. During the
day I was gratified to find the wives of the principal chiefs came on board, and
expressed their sorrow al the absence of their husbands, who were at the open
water looking after whale ; but they had been sent for, and were coming on
board as soon as they returned. They told us also that all work was stopped
for five days, the women not being allowed to sew for that time, which seems to
be a general custom on the occasion of any deaths, and remarlvcd that we ought
not to have any hammering on board for the same time ; and as I was anxious td
show every sympathy in our power, the caulkers at work outside were ordered to
cease work, and the ensign hoisted half-mast, the meaning of which was explained
and understood by them. In the evening one of the chiefs who had been first
down after the accident visited us with his wife, and brought the intelligence
that a diversion existed in the camp as to revenging themselves on us, but as the
chiefs were unwilling to favour it, it seemed probable nothing of the sort would
be attempted. However, proper precautions were taken to avoid any surprise,
particularly as a thick fog at the time of sleep favoured such a design.

On the foHowinff day 'Jx- four rhicfn, with thrir wivrx, nme on bean), whrn,
with the asHistancT u^ the ortic-crM, thi- whole- artair whk again rxplainril, which
they scfiiu-d to coniprfhcnd, and apjx iired to i-ntcrtaiii no fear of going hc>low
as usual whon ankcd. W»' wort' (piitc awaro of thrir inability to control
individnaU, hut they huvi' to u if rtaiii dcgnr a good di>al of sway, and rccoin-
mended us to make presents to all the people who lived in the Hamc house as the
deecafied, and eautioned us not to stray away from the neigh Ixiurhood of the
Hhip, as the fiTling of a gn-at many of them was uncertain. ( )n their leaving
they were made presents, and desin'd to bring the house party to the ship at the
expiration of Hve days, the time they strictly omtine themselves to the houne,
and I U'lievc are seldom intruded upon. I'hev arrived at the ship in due time,
munlK'ring as many as ten, accompanied by the chiefs. 'I'hc widow was young,
anil iteemcd in umirtrcted grief, which the large presents ahe received did not
dissipate.' ; but tinu* and a continual course of kindness on our parts brought her
to forget her loss so far that >he regretted to me, and I lielieve in sincerity, the
thoughts of the ship going away. Our intercourse from this tinu-, as might Ik*
expected, could not hn- conducted with the same satisfaction it had previously
been, although no tn)uble or inconvcMience was spared to do away with their
unfavourable impression. The views they entertained of the case very much
asMisted a reconciliation, as they had no idea of any such thing as a general con-
trol exiMting amongst us ; the act was set down as purely an individual one,
and the whole fault of it attributed to the man as an act of his own, while they
seemed to consider the remainder not in any way concerned in it.

About fourteen days atler the occurrence a large collection of people had
assembled at Point Barrow to witness some dancing festival previous to setting
out to the eastward.

A party I'rom Cape Smyth ullerwards endeavoured to get up an united force to
attack the ship without Iwing able to succeed. However, the chief and a good
many of the Point Barrow people wishing to make a merit for which to be
rewarded, of their not joining o.r enemies, I was obliged to tell them I should
be very sorry if the people <'aine dov.n with bows to the ship again, but if they
did, a good many would be killed. This appears to have put an end to it, aa
we were next told of the departure of the hostile party, and were not troubled
with any more reports of that description.

We now watched with some anxiety the preparations for the departure of the
natives, as as the time was approaching for the departure of our l>oats for Cape
Lisburne, and their transit «>ver the ice could not 1r' effected without some risk
of interruption until their numliers became decreased, so that we were much

f>lea8ed to see them in a state of forwardness. On .July 4th they commenced
eaving, and continued to follow for three successive days. Kach party halted
to sleep near the ship to have an opportunity of begging from us till the last
moment, and as I hud prepared some printid papers for them to distrilmte among
the eastern Ks(|uiinaux at Barter Island, they were treated with every indulgence;
and those entrusted with the printed papers received a present t)f tobacco, some
buttons, prepared in England, In-aring informati(m conceniing the Arctic search,
and some otner small trifles to keep them reminded of their charge, which they
faithfully promised to pass on. 1 redeemed a long-made promise to the chief,
giving him some gimpowder. I think it had a gcwid cHect, by showing we had
no fear of them ; and I was fully aware he had a sufficient quantity for mischiev-
ous purposes, as his gun, when in our p)ssession, was found well loaded with
ball-cartridge.

I accompanied one party a short distance on their journey to see if 1 could
gain any useful hints for our own iKiats. 'i'he "cKvini-aks" were secured on
small sledges, and seemed to Ik* easily drawn by three people. The principal
part of their barter, t^whalc-blublH-r and seal-oil,) was carried on small truck-
sledges, drawn by the women and dogs, the men seeming t^) confine tiiemselves
to the charge of the boats; but at lanes of water and different passes they mutu-
ally assist each other. The rate of travelling whilst moving was expeditious, but
they made frequent halts to smoke, and iH-fbie I left them, although near their
place of encampment, they ate a hearty meal.

Jk'tween the 4th and 7th of July, as many as twenty seven to thirty "oo-mi-
aks," accompanied by 150 people, pa.s.scd to the eastward, much to our satisfac-
tion, as it left us with comparatively few to trouble us in our preparations for
seudiiig away the bcato.

'MS

On thf 7th 1 made an oxrarsioii acnHs the bay to obnervc the state of the
KtMi-itv, and walked two iiiilcH to the westward in the offlnjj; without bcinj? able
t<i fjTot a Kli>»P'*^' ••* "I"'" witer in any dircetion from the hif^hest luiniinock.
Thin made ine form the idea of taking the boatH over the ice to the Houtliwurd
\intil we fell in with it.

On the moriiinK <>* tlu' !)th I Kit the Hliip willi the ^ig and whale-boat
intended for ('ajH' l.iNbume. They wen- |)lace«l «)n two stron>( sledges drawn
by their own erews and ollicers, Lieiitinant Vernon an;l Mr. (Jordon (mate),
asHisted by an auxiliary |)arty of ten, inchidiiijr myself and the carpenter,
making tip twentv in all. Thirty-tonr days' proviHions for the boats' crews,
clothing, amnnmition, iVc. was carried on two native sledKCs drawn by do^s,
a third conveying provisions for the auxiliary party, i'arts of the transit over
the ice waH atten(h-d with difficulty, and the whole was very laborious, requiring
the utmoat strength of all the parties, assisted at times by natives, and for two
diys by a strong and favourable l)r('e/e, enabling u^ to make sail on the lM)ats,
which lightened the laboni- very nnich. Travelling to the southward for three
days the ojx-n water ap|K'arc() within two miles of the beach at what seemed
a most eligible place for laimching the boats. I walked, accompanied by
Lieutenant Vernon, to the open water, but the hunnnocks intervening seemed
to offer too great an obstacle to the transit; however on the following morning,
July 12th, as the weather was favourable I decided to attempt it, and suc-
ceeded in launching the boats safelv at noon. They sckhi after shoved off with
a favourable breeze, which they held for eight hours only.

On the I. 5th, whilst calculating on the progress they might have made, a
party of people were observed coming down at 8 o'clock in the evening, tracking
an " oo-mi-ak," and on making out some of «)ur people amongst them our
astonishment was so great we could hardly believe ()ur eyes. I went without
loss of time to meet them, not in a very agreeable state of mind; but when I
counted the full nund)er of the party I wi:* comparatively easy. It appears
that on the night of the i:Jtli, finding the ice closing on them tfiey managed to
get the Iwats on to the floe, and fancied themselves safe althcmgh drifting to
the northward. The ice continued to press in towards the land, crushing the
tloc and piling it up to nearly twenty feet in height, and ut length the floe gave
way beneath them, and the gig was partly filled with pieces and could not be
withdrawn further towards the land. The whaler, a lighter boat, was also
stove, and as she could not be brought further the whole party were obliged to
make the best of their way ti> the !>hore betbri' tht ice should ease off", as it
seemed inclined to do, and leave them on detached pieces. Fortunately the
danger, so imminent, was of that slow but overwhelming nature that they had
time to provide themselves with three days' preserved meats, and their arms and
ammunition, with which thev were enabled to reach the ship. I have forwarded
Lieutenant Vernon's journal, which will show their Lordships how that officer
and his companion, Mr. (iordon, ac(|uitted themselves on the occasion ; and I
have much satisfaction in mentioning the high terms in which he spoke of the
conduct of the crews, not a man of whom expressed his opinion until they had
decided on deserting the boats, when from their manner he concludes they
thought it high time, and he further descrilxis them as obedient, cool, and
intrepid from the commencement of the danger until their return on board.
The loss of the ship's l)oats was a heavy misfortune, but when it was considered
the whole party had found their way safely to the ship, we were too much
rejoiced to give a look of regret after the boats, which could not have been
saved.

Two days after the return of the boat party I had serious thoughts of
despatching another in a native " oo-mi-ak," to keep our appointment at Cape
Lisburne ; but on weighing the matter maturely, 1 gave up the idea as by no
means in our power could it reach the rendezvous by the appointed time ; and
as the ship would be obliged to wait for the return of the party, the delay would
render it impossible to regain this ))lace as a winter station, in the event of its
being so ordered. With these considerations, and a present prospect of an early
release, I thought it better not to divide our small force at a time when the
services of every one would l)e required to extricate the ship, and to take tiie
earliest opportunity of going to the south in order to recruit the health of the
ship's company.

As early as July 25th we were enabled to swing the ship for local attraction,

Z 4

. iii

li * (

\ I

and the ice litiviiiK el(>«r'>tl uwny for n coiiHidcrnhlc npace in our ncighlwurhood,
wi- iiiovtd i'lto the Hiiiway to Ih' rnidy lui »lir first <)|H'iiing in tlu" otHiig.

'I'ho imlivt •< l)rt)tl^llf us u n-poit tins m<iriimg that our dtsrrtt'd iMmtn liiiil Ihtii
Mrn drit'tfd nrur tlu> short- at ihi- Siii llorsi- Islandx, and tlair contents niadi- u
prize of l)y a suidl |)arty, who siKrirdiMl in lirin({iiig tin* \i,\v, to tht- land. On
our passa^f (h)\vn, iKiilin^ closi- alon^; slioro, sonic natives l)rou^ht the shell of
the l)<)at olV, cxchanjfin^ her readily for a native " oo-ini-ak " wc had providetl our-
selves with in the mean time.

In watching the dissolution of the h:iy ice, we had flattered ouritclves tbix
•ouNoii was fourteen days iH-fore the lust, which it really was in tiu thinnesw of
the ice; hut from the ahscnce of stroni; winds it renwuned stationary, at a time
when the sea was o|Hn the |)ri"cedinj; year. Kvery day, at this period (the end
of July) seemed to etVect a marked change in the ice, ami on the MOth a
per«'eptil)le motion to the northward was ohservi'd in some of the heavy
munniocks in the otlii% and a lane of water sutiieient for the ship was found
by Mr. Mull (second master; whom I sent to tiliserve the state of the ice to
itenward.

In c<inse(|uence of this report I set out in a l)oat on the following (hiy to trace
itii extent, preparatory to moving the ship, and to sound along shore to find how
close we could approach in ease of necessity. Kvery thing seemed favourable
to our i)urj>ose, and I tidly cx|Hcted to retmn in tlie evening and get under
weigh, hut on approaching Cape Smyth I had the mortification to find tliehuu'of
v*ater terminate so close with the shore, that a native "<M>nii-ak" could not have
pas.sed. 'Ihis was one of the disap|H)intments of ice na\igation which teaches
one patimee, and reipiiivs to he borne with, in addition to others wc arc liable
to, even imder favourable circumstances.

From the Isttothetith of .\ugust an officer was sent each (hiy to CajH'
Smyth to bring the earliest iiUelligence ot any change in t)ur favour, but each
(h«y brought the same luiwelcome report, that the ice was still close with the
ihore ami no open water to Ih- seen. It sa-ms a strange complaint in thetie
latitudes, Ixit the fineness of the |)re-ent season was the eauw- of our detention.
During the moiuh of .Fidy the wind was ngistered one day from five to nix
in force; for foiu- days four ; and the remaining twenty-six barely averaged two,
proving the extrc-me of fine wt-ather to Ik- a greater obstacle in moving masses
of ice than the reverse- slate of it.

On the 7th, a fri-sh breeze from the eastward gave me some ho|K-s of a
change in our favour; and on visiting Cape Smyth I observed a narrow lane of
water extending a> far as the eye could reach to the southward. On getting
on board at H i'.M.,we left our anchorage, wlu-re we had foiuid shelter for eleven
months and four days, siven days later in the sc-ason than Captain I'arry had
In-en »-nai)led to leave Melville Island. We carried a favourable breeze for eight
hours, and had made con>iderable progress, when the wind slutted to S.W., with
thick weather and heavy rain, which made it ditlicult to avoid coming in contact
with the ice from the narrowness of the chamu-1 we had to beat in. A contimni-
tion of thick weutlu-r and light contrary winds on flic following day prevented
our making any progress; and in the afKriUHiii, finding we were losing ground,
I made fast to a large tloi-piece, when wc found the drift to be one mile an hour,
east, In-ing \erv nearly in tlu- opjiosite din-ction to our course. After a few-
hours we were enabled to cast off, on a light wind springing up from the north-
ward, and run along shore to tlu- S.W. ; but the ice had Ik-coiuc gradually closer
during the few liours of westerly winds, and we had nuu-h difticidty in picking
our way during the night as a thick log privailed. On the following morning,
August 9th, the outer edge of the land flo*.- in the depth of I'eard May was found
to extend uid)roken from the land to a distance of nine miles, and the ice outside
seemed too close to offer us a passage in the desired direction ; but as the wind
was fresh and favouralile, the ship was forced into open water by 10 a.m., having
sustained some se\ere but unavoidable shocks in doing so. I was now anxious
to keep close in with the land, in order to stop any lM>ats that might Ih.- making
their way to Point Harrow in coiise(|iienci- of our failing to reach ('a|)e Lisburue;
and at '1 p.m., in j)assing tlu- Sea Horse Islands, we got into three fathoms in
endeavouring to dose the shore lor the |)urpose of sending a boat to put up u
mark, whiili we were not able to accomplish, as the win<i was fouiul to blow-
rather ou shore, and was too strong to admit of the sliij) lying off aiul on with
dafetv. I accordingly bore up to run for Cape- Lisburnc, and on the following

ISA

day, Aupfust 1 0th, at 11 a. r., communicntod with HcrMaio8tyn Ship " Amphl-
trite," (Japtain Fndorick, from whom I n-ccivt-d their Lonlnhipin' orders directing
me to remiiiri at Point Harrow, but the health of the crew woidd hiivc prevented
my doing ho hud I rcccivi-d the orde"- previous to leaving; and ns there iteeined
no <liHieulty in returning (hiring the [jresent si-nson, I repiiired ifi co i)|)any with
the " Amphitrite" to Port C;hirene«', to iiwait the arrival of the " Uultlesnakc,"*
and to obtain the ehan{|teH found necessary in the crew, with nn increased supply
of provisions and fuel for luiother ye«r.

Our return seemed the more necessary as their Lordships' instructioiis direct
provisions toU" left in the neighlMuirluHic'l of Point Harrow, wiiich I had not done,
considering at the time I left it was probahh; I should return. A reference to
Sir K. Helcher's instructions relative to the north coast seemed also to make it
desirable that the " Plover" should return to the station she was known to
occupy by that officer in the event of any of his parties advancing with the
ccrtau) hope of succour at Point Harrow.

UocHKoiiT Maoi'ikb, Commander.
Her Majesty's Ship " Plover."

Port Clarence, 21st August 1853.

No. 2.

C.ig.

Lieutenant C. E. H. Vernon, (Jeorgc Stockcr coxswain, Kdward Sutton, John
Bright, John Magra.

Whaler.

Mr. G. T. Gordon acting mate, Alexander Kerr coxswain, Robert M'Ferlane,
Walter Daw, Edward Clarke.

At .loon, after returning three hearty cheers given by Captain Maguire and Tiie«(iny. isih July,
party, wc started from the edge of the ice with eviiy prospect of a successful "'^' ""•'^'""
cruise to the southwards, there being no ice to seaworu, with the exception of
a few small pieces, we followed along the edge of the land-floe under oars and sail,
with a light breeze from E.S.E. making a S.W, course for about 30 miles. In
the evening the wind fell light and variable, then veered to S.W. with showers Bm. im-i.
of rain. Hy 10 p.m. we had apparently reached the extreme of the open water,
where the main pack was close m with the land-Hoe ; but we continued to pull,
taking every opportunity of getting the boats through any lanes that opened to
the southward and eastward. At midnight seeing no passage, and the men
being much fatigued, stopped to give them some rest.

2.30 A.M. observed the ice in motion setting north, about two knots on hour,
took advantage of some lanes to the S.S.K. and made but little progress, having i^sil""'!'// !m'm« ''
to haul the boats up occasionally to avoid being nijiped : continued till noon,
when the main pack setting in shore, broke up the liuui-floc into small pieces
which were whirling round and packing up in all directions around the boats.
By using our utmost exertions, we suececcu d in hauling the boats up on a heavy
floe which was driving in ; not, however, l)eforc the whaler had received consid-
erable damage, (one plank being split fore and aft, and several bolts started,)
and the gig slightly so, (some bolts having started and several nails.) We now
thought ourselves secure, and at 2 p.m. dined. Fuel all expended, extremes of
land N.N.E. and S.E., nothing was to be seen now but closely packed ice ; at
this time the weather was line, but every appearance of a strong breeze from the "ir. smo.
southward, 'i'he land-floe unable to resist the pressure gave way, the fragments
piling up to the height of fifteen feet, within a few yards of the boats ; after
some time the floe on which we were cracked across in several places, at 9 p.m.
the pieces separating, and drifting to the northward at the rate of two or three
knots an hour, left for us but one course to pursue, which was tn abandon the
boats, and it was only to ensure the safety of the lives of the party under my
command that I could prevail on myself to take this step; each man taking his
arms, ammunition, and three days' supply of biscuit, preserved meat, and spir-
its, prepared to leave. At 9-.'^0 p.m. cleared and launched the whaler into a
small pool of water which had opened: through this we ibrced our way to a small
detached field of ice ; hauled her over that and crossed to the lanil-floe. We
walked towards the land in an E.S.K. direction, uncertain whether the lines of

A a

. !

186

hummocks might conceal any channels vhich would cut ofF our retreat to the
B«. 89.74. shore; this, however, we found was not the case, — wind from the southward with

mist.
Thur^diy, iih mi. 12.30 P.M., arrived at the main land in Peard Bay, where the cliffs were high,
and a small crock running iii to the southward of them. The distance of the
place where we had abandoned th« boats could not have been less than six miles,
as we had walked very I'ast. I'hanked God for a safe deliverance from the
dangers to which we had been exposed, and proceeded on our journey to the
ship, at 3 A.M. All feeling tired, lit a fire and lay down till 9, sleeping but
little ; then had breakfast and started ; passed two inlets, in the first there was
a good deal of driftwcxxl, bearing off point of land N.W. 9.30., arrived at a
river called by the natives " Shin rau," where there were six native tents ; hired
a sledge and four dogs, and accompanied by two natives, we continued on our
road, passing several encampments. 1 1 p.m., passed the inlet where a post had
been erected by the " Nancy Dawson " ( Mr. Shedder) ; on it were the words
" Nancy Dawson: 25 feet south." There were several huts at this place, the native
name " Iglu-lu-i "; they appeared to be well supplied with food, as we could see
fifteen seal laying on the beach, and a great numlx^r of skins stretched out to
dry. Walked on till 6 a.m., when we stopped at a native hut, and had a good
sleep till lOh. 30ni., the occupants leaving to make room for us, and earning
tobacco by drying our mocassins. Sec. ; packed the sledge and proceeded,
taking something to eat before arriving at Cape Smyth, and at 1 p.m. passed the
village — natives very quiet. We overtook some " Noowook " natives, who
were living at " Pergnack," who offered to take us to the ship in a baidar. On
our arrival at that place at 4..3() p.m., some of the natives of Cape Smyth were
inclined to be troublesome and wished no assistance to be given us, besides I
heard them talking about knives ; on uncovering the sledge they saw our arms,
and became very civil, offering us another boat. Hired the boat belonging to our
Noowook friends, and tracked up to the ship, arriving at 8 p.m. ; all regretting the
loss of the boats so invaluable to us, at the same time delighted that no lives
had been lost.

I feel bound to mention in terms of the highest praise, the assistance rendered
to me by Mr. Gordon, and of the good conduct and willingness displayed
throughout, by all the men.

C. E. H. Veuxon, Lieutenant

of H. M. S. " Plover."

. !

rf ■ —

Secretauv of the Admiralty to Commander Rociifort Maguire.

Sir, 16th January, 1854.

I HAVE received and laid liefore my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty
your letter of the 2 1 st August last, with the accompanying narrative of your
wintciing at Point Barrow, and I am to acquaint you that my Lords consider
throughout your proceedings, and in your conduct towards the natives of that
coast, you have shown a decision and forlwarance alike creditable to yourself
and the officers, seamen, and marines under your orders.

I am, &c.
(Signed) W. A. B. Hamilton.

Commander Maguire,

H.^L Discovery Ship " Plover,"

Point Barrow.

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187

SJcclclud bn a. MCnrmick, BJf.

Cape Spencer, bearing W.N.W.,* distant Two Miles.

XIV.

Dr. M'Cormick's Boat Expedition up the Wellington Channel, 1852.

'1 I

Narrative of a Boat and Sledoe Expedition up Wellington Channel and
round Baring Bay, in search of Sir John Franklin and the crews of the
discovery ships " Erebus " and " Terror."

On Thursday, 19th August 1852, at 11 a.m., I succeeded in embarking upon
my long-sought and long-cherished enterprise, in a whale boat equipped for a
month, and manned by half a dozen volunteers from Her Majesty's ship
" North Star," lying oft' Beechey Island.

Although, it could not be otherwise than a source of the deepest regret to
me, that the short season for boating operations in these regions was now fast
drawing to a close, and with it the more sanguine hopes I had entertained of
accomplishing the extended exploration I had contemplated ere the long polar
night set in, yet, even in this, the eleventh hour, I was not without a hope of at
least setting at rest one question relative to the search, viz., as to the existence of
any available conununication between Baring Bay and Jones Sound, either by
means of an opening or narrow isthmus of land, in the direction of the position
laid down in the Admiralty chart, as the spot where a cairn, cooking place, and
footprints, are said to have been visited by a whaler ; and have been thought
by some, most deeply interested in the fate of our lost countrymen, to have
l)een traces of their wanderings.

This object I fully determined to accomphsh, if possible, either by sea or
land, even should the formation of " young ice " (so much to be apprehended
at this advanced {U'riod of the season,) form such an impediment as to leave
me no other alternative than to abandon my boat, and make my way back to
the ship by an overland journey.

At the very inoincnt I was about taking my departure, a sail hove in sight,
coming round Cape Uiley, which proved to be no less interesting an arrival
than Lady Franklin's own little brigantine, the " Prince Albert," on her return
from Batty Bay, in Prince Regent's Inlet, where she had wintered, without
finding any tracers of the missing expedition. I met her commander, Kennedy,
and Monsieur Bellot, on the floe ns they landed, but so anxious was I to make
the most of e\ cry iiionieiit of the brief remnant of the season still remaining,
that I had little" time to inquire what they had accomplished.

After despatcliing a few liastily written lines home by them, I struck across

* All the bearings nrc uingnetic.

1S8

the ice for the floe edge, where my boat was awaitinff me ; and hoisting the sail
with a strong breeze from the S.W., ran alongside of the " P- incc Allwrt,"
standing off and on between Cape Riley and iToechcv Island. Hepburn, the
faitiiful follower and companion of the gallant Franklin in his ever-mcinorablc

{'oumcy along the shores of the Polar Sea, was on Imard this little vessel. I
lad not seen him since our first meeting in Tasmania, on my arrival there, —
in the very same " Erebus ' of which I am now in search, — whilst engaged in
the Antarctic Expedition, at the time Sir John Franklin was governor of the
colony. In passing so close I could not resist the impulse to jump on Iward,
and congratulate this spirited old \eteran with a hearty shake of the hand on
his safe return, thus far, from so arduous an undertaking in search of his old
commander.

A sudden change in the weather having taken place yesterday, accompanied
by a heavy fall of snow, covering all the hills with one uniform mantle of white,
too plainly heralding the setting in of winter, rendered my visit a very brief
one ; and shoving off again, we rounded Beechcy Island in a snowstorm, and
were compelled to lower the sail and pull through some loose stream ice,
(coming out of the Wellington Channel,) to Cape Spencer, where wc had our
dinner of cold bacon and biscuit, at 2 p.m.

On doubling Innes Point, wc fell in with a large quantity of drift ice, setting
with the strong current, which runs here from the N.W. rapidly down channel,
and apparently extending across to the opposite shore of Cornwallis Land, leaving
a narrow passage of open water along the North l)e\-on side, which I availed
myself of, pushing onwards l)etween the ice and the land. The shingle Iwach,
l)et\veen Innes and Lovell Points, is margined by a low glacial fonnation, giving
the latter point a white lK>rg-like termination.

At 6 P.M. I landed to examine a remarkable conical heap of shingle, not
unlike a cairn, as it peered alwve the snow. It seemed to have iK'cn thrown up
at the outlet of a water-course to the sea, the Ix-d of which was now dry ; but
the cleft in the ridge of rocks through which it passed was roofed over with
ice and snow, forming a caveni iK'neath.

On entering, a Ix-autiful grotto disclosed itself, the floor glittering with
countless globular masses of frozen drops of water, and the root' with pendant
icicles clear as rock crystal. Tlie interior of the cave, which exteniled to a
greater distance than I had leisure to follow it up, was so encrusted over with
these aqueous stalactites and stalagmites, that tlie whole surface sparkled
through the faint gleam of light adioitted, as brilliantly as if studded with
huge diamonds.

The weather suddenly cleared up fine, but the wind shitYing round to N.N.W.
dead against us, hemmed us in Ix'tween the ice and the land, within a bight,
leaving open water in mid-channel, from which we were cut off by a l)elt of
lieavy fltw-pieces, margined by nmch sludge, and alx)ut half a mile in breadth.
Our further progress l)eing thus arrested, we landed at 7 I'.m. to take our tea, in
the hope that by the time that we had finished this refreshing repast, a passage
might nave opened out for us. At H p.m., however, the ice was jununiMg us int;)
the cur\o in the coast closer than ever. I therefore determined on making an
attempt to force the boat through it, bv poling her along witli the oars and
Iwarding pikes. In this way we succeeded m getting about half way through,
when the swell increased so much as wc neured the niargin, and the heavy
pressure to which the lK)at was subjected In'tween the larger fioc-pieces became
so great, tliat we had to haul her up on the ice, after taking e\erytliing out of
her, to preserve her from l)eing stove in. We then endeavoured to drag her
over the larger pieces, with the intention of embarking the provisions and other
things, as soon as she was launched into the loose sludge outside. Whilst thus
lalwriously employed, the making of tiie flood tide augmented the swell and
commotion amongst the floe-pieces so much, pressing them togetiier witli such
violence, that one of the largest and thickest pieces on which we had deposited
our provisions, suddenly parted in the centre, threatening destruction to every-
thing upon it.

In this critical position I was reluctantly compelled to relinquish the attempt
for the present, and alter landing everything in safety by means of the sledge,
we dragged the boat over the floe-pieces and landed her upon the IkmicIi. It was
midnight bei'ore we pitched the tent i'or the night on a ridge of shingle, after

189

Slulehnl 6y B. M-Cornick, .

Launching of the Boat over the Drift Ico from Lorell Poinl Encampment.

four hours of unceasing, most harassing, and dangerous work, which fairly put to
the test the capabilities of every one of my small party, and fully satisfied me that
I could not have selected a finer boat's crew for a perilous service, had I had the
whole Arctic squadron to have picked them from. After supper, having set a
watch for the night as a precaution against a surprise from the bears, whose
tracks were rather numerous upon the snow on the beach, the buffalo robes
were spread, and all turned into their felt-bags to enjoy that sound and refresh-
ing sleep, which seldom fails to attend on the wearied and toilwom, however
hard may be the coucii or inclement the cUme.

Friday 20th, the spot on which we encamped last night is a little to the north-
ward of Lovell Point, all around a snowy waste, save and except the narrow
shingle ridge cm which the tent stood, and that was bare. The northern sky
looked black and threatening, not that peculiar dark horizon indicating the

f)resence of open water, and hence technically called a water-sky, but the
urid appearance preceding bad weather ; the thermometer during the day rose
no higher than 31" Faiirenhcit. We saw four large flocks of geese all flying at
a considerable height in their usual angular-shaped phalanx, shaping their course
for the south, a sure sign of winter's near approach. Saw also many dovckics
and kittiwakes, and two seals.

On emerging from oin- felt-bags this morning at six o'clock, in which, chry-
salis-like, we liad been incased during the night, and quitting the confines
of the tent, we found tliiit but Uttlc change had taken place in the scene around us :
both ice and weather bore nuich tlic same aspect. On the outer edge of the ice
a heavy surf was still breaking, and large floe-picces had been stranded on the
beach by the heavy pressure in the night. The atmosphere looked gloomy,
over-cas't, and tineutening; tiie thermometer had fallen below 29°, and young ice
formed to tiie tiiickness of an inch. After our breakfast of cold bacon and
biscuit with chocolate, I took a rough sketch of the encampment, and walked
for almut a mile along the beach to the northward, in search of a more promising
part in the belt of ice for embarkation, but found none, even so practicable for
the purpose as the place of our encampment.

Bb 2

190

Shtclml bt n. ilVurmtek, MJ>:

Capo liowdon, from the suinmit of Cape M'Baiii, W.N.W. (Magnetic.)

On my return, therefore, tlie Imat was once more Inuiiehetl upon tlie floe-
pieccs, wliicli, from the wind drawing round more to the westward, liud iKf u
paeked closer together in siiore; and ut 10 a.m., by dint of great exertion, we at
last succeeded in gaining the outer margin ; but it was noon before everything
was got into the boat, having to make three sledge-trips from the shore with
the provisions and other things. Wc now launched her into the sludgy surf,
where, from her being so deep in the water, although with only a moiitli's provi-
sions on board, and this she could barely stow, her situation was for a few nunutcs
a very critical one, frt)m the risk of iK-nig swamped, till bv a few lusty strokes of
the oars, wc were swept fairly out of this vortex of slu(fge and water into the
open channel, and made sail witii a fresh breeze ibr Cajx; Bowden, going at the
rate of about five knots an hour.

In doubling Cape Bowtlen, we had to make a considerable detour to avoid a
long stream of ice extending from it to the distance of several miles ; and in
nmning through the heavy swell and sludge which skirted it, carried away our
rudder, through one of the pintles giving way, which, on examination, was found
to have l)een (lelective, and the rudder altogether badly fitted. In short, the
boat was an old one, which had l)een knocked al)out in the late expeditions, and
not well adapted for such an enterprise as this. This accident, together with a
freshening breeze accompanied by thick weather, snow, and sleet, compelled
us to lower the sail, at .5 p.m. I now looked out ibr a spot to l)eacn the
boat, under Cape Bowden, a perpendicular cliff, rising to the height of upwards
of five hundred feet above the level of the sea ; but the extremely narrow strip
of shingle beach at its base was so thickly studded with stranded hunmiocks
and berg-pieces of ice, on which a heavy surf was breaking, as to render it alike
impracticable either to haul up the boat or find room to pitch the tent
afterwards.

On the north side of Cape Bowden we opened a pretty little bay, of semicir-
cular fonn, most synunetrically so, about a mile in breadth at its entrance, and
much rtl)out the same in depth ; bounded on the north by a low, narrow penin-
sula, suddenly rising into, and terminating in a tabular-tonped cape, about two
hundred feet in height, separating it from Griffin Bay. ^\ e pulled all round the
little bay with the intention of encamping there for the night, but found the
beacli everywhere st> hemmed in with a fringe of groimdecl Inunmocks of ice
lashed by the surf, that not a single opening offered, even for running the l)oat's
bow in iK'tween them. A flock of geese, a number of gulls, and several ravens,
which we had disturbed in their solitary retreat, took wing on our approach.
I gave it the name of Clark Bay ; and the headland bounding it to the north,
I called Cape M'Bain, after two esteemed friends ; the former, being one of the
lew remaining survivors who shared in the glorious battle of Trafalgar, and the
latter, an old voyager to these regions.

On rounding Cape M'Bain into (Jritfin Bay, the weather became so thick as
nearly to conceal the land, and we had some difficuliy in iinding a spot where

191

mutckti H A aromM, juy,^"* *- '—

Capo M'Buin, bearing VV.S.W.

the boat could he bvuchcd. After coasting the south side of the bay for nearly
a mile within the Cape, we at last succeeded in hauling her up into a little nook
between the grounded hununocks with which the whole line of coast was thickly
strewed. At 6.15 p.m. we pitched the tent for the night, between two small
shingle ridges, lighted a fire, and had tea, with some cold bacon and biscuit.

Griffin Bay presented a most wild-looking scene of desolation ; the surround-
ing hills were all covered with snow; huge masses of old ice which had been stranded
by some enormous pressure, lav thickly strewed along its shores, in places piled
up in chaotic confusion ; and the upper part of the bay was full of loose ice, the
winter's floe having very recently broken up. The streams of ice which we met
with on our way up channel doubtless came out of this and the adjacent bays.

When about turning into my felt-bag for the night, I found it saturated
with water, and preferred taking my rest on the buflPalo robe, without any other
covering than what the tent afforded, having a black tai-paulin bag containing
my change of clothes (all thoroughly drenched by the seas the toat shipped
over her bows) for my pillow.

Saturday 21st. — Rose at Ti a.m., breakfasted, and started at six o'clock for the
summit of Cape M'Bain, on which I found a cairn, containing a small gutta
percha case, enclosing a circular printed in red ink on yellow tinted paper, dated
Tuesday, May 13th 1851, and stating that a searching party from the "Lady
Franklin" anti " Sophia" brigs had left, for emergencies, on the north point of the
bay, a cache of sixty pounds of bread and forty pounds of pemmican. From
the spot on which the cairn stands, I took sketches of Capes Bowden and
Grinnell, and descended on the south side into Clark Bay, and whilst examining
its shores, I saw an Arctic gull and three fine large white hares (Lepiis ulaclalis),
which, however, were far too shy and wary to allow me to approach within
ball range of them : both barrels of my gun being loaded with ball, I discharged
one after them, which sent them running off at a tremendous rate.

Ketuniing to our encampment, we stmck the tent, and after re-embnrking
everything, made sail with a fair wind from the westward at 9- 15 a.m., but still
the same overcast and gloomy aspect of the sky. After we had proceeded for
some distance, I discovered that a fine musk ox ( Ovihos moschatus) skull and
horns, (evidently a bull's from the bases of the horns meeting over the forehead,)
found by two of the boat's crew, on one of the ridges above the bay, in a ramble
they took last night, — had been left behind on the beach. This was much to be
regretted, as the specimen furnished pretty decisive evidence that these animals
must once have existed here, and the probability is, that they do so still. It
l)ore evident marks of long exposure to the weather, bleached white, porous,
and time-worn.

Standing over for Cape Grinnell, we encountered another heavy stream of
ice, which crossed our course as it drifted rapidly out of Griffin Bay, cutting us
off from the shore, and we had to get out the oars and pull round it. Our
rudder, which we had made an attempt at repairing, again gave way. We
passed a shoal of white whales (Beluga iinrcalis), and saw the cairn on the point
where the depot of provisions was left. After taking a sketch of the latter,
I landed about noon upon a narrow shingle beach, on which we lighted a fire and
cooked a warm mess, made of preserved mutton, soup and potatoes, for our dinner.
On walking up the ridge to the cairn, through a heavy fall of snow, we found the

f)rovisi()ns gone ; and as there were recent foot-prints up the side of the ridge
ending to it, wher

the melting of

till snow had left the soil sufficiently soft
Bb 3

193

bttlelud bt a. rCvrmii-i, HJf.

Cape Daniull, bearing K,W.

nnd plustic to take impressions, I caineto the conclwsion that the " Assistance"
and "Pioneer" had taken them on their way up channel. Retumini? to the
Ijoat, we shoved off at '.) p.m., the sun {(lancing forth a momentary ray through
the surrounding nuuky atmosphere, as we receded fnmi the shore. On rounding
the caini point, we opi'ned another small semicircular bav, strikingly resem-
bling ClarK Hay l)otn in size and form ; and to which 1 gave the name of
M't'lint<K'k, utU-r m^* friend, the distinguished I'olar traveller, now conunandcr
of Her Majesty's ship " Intrepid."

The coast, along which wc nad now to pull against a fresh northerly breeze,
presented a very lx)ld and striking asjK'ct. Hluf!" headlands, rising precipitously
from the water's edge to the height of six hundred feet and upwards, and
skirted at the base by a narrow l)elt of shingly l)each, profusely studded with
stranded hunuuocks of ice. From the steep fronts of these magnificent clitts of
the mountain limestone projected three or more horizontal tiers of buttresses in
strong reliif, the effect of which was much heightened by the tiers ln-ing bare
of snow, and black — so contracted with their white sides as to give them the
appearance of some frowning and impregnable fortress, or imposing battery
presented by the broadside of a stately taree-decker. Between two of these
remarkable headlands, another very symmetrical bay opened out, Iwundcd on
the north by a wild, romantic-Uxiking cape, towermg upwards with smooth
and swelling sides to near its summit, and then abruptly breaking up into
angular-shatted rocky fragments, forming a rugged, pictures(|ue-l(K)king crest,
seven or eignt hundred feet alK)ve the level of the sea. To this pretty bay
I gave the nanie of Emery, afler an old and much valued friend ; and to the
soutli headland C'ape Daniell, after another esteemed friend ; lK)th of whom
have their names alread} enrolled in the annals of African discovery. I saw the
trucks of i)ears and foxes ujK)n the snow along the lieach.

Cornwallis Land, forming the opposite shore of Wellington Channel, piebald
with snow, loomed dark and wildly through the mist, at the distance of Ix-tween
twenty and thirty miles, yet I could distmctly make out the point forming its
nortii-eastern extremity. Passed several wiiite whales, a seal or two, and several
large flcK-ks of geese, the whole mi^jrating to the south, a few dovekies {Uria
f>ri///i'), fulmar petrel {Profellariu frlitriftlin), glaucous and kittiwake gulls.

At V) P.M., ()l)serving a cairn on a low ridge of shingle, I ran the lM)at in
between the grounded himnnocks of ice on tlic point. Landed and found a tin
cylinder containing a notice tliat the " Assistance " and " Pioneer" had passed on
Sunday morning last at 10 o'clock, bound to Baillie Hamilton Island — "all
well."

From this we hud a very prolonged and fatiguing pull along a most dreary
line of coast, closely packed w>th trrounded hunuuocKs. The breeze increased

19S

lliflchea hy H. .V( urmUk. H. \

KncAmpmunt in Emery Hay.

to a fresh gale, ncconipiinicd by slcct and snow; the thermometer 28°; air cold
and pinching, and the whole of the hind more deeply covered with snow than
any that we had yet passed. The horizon to tlie north looked black and
threatening, and a faint pinkish streak of light seemed to give an additionol
air of wildness to its aspect. The night, too, was fast closing in, with no
prospect l)efore us of the smallest nook where we could haul up the boat in
safety till the morning. A long way ahead of us three bold capes appeared
in the distance; the nearest, a remarkably black-looking one, prominently jutting
out from the snow-clad ridf^es flanking it on either side. Aground oft' it was a
large mass of ice of fantastic shape, rising from the sea by a narrow neck and
then expanding out into the form ol' an urn, appearing as if filled with white
foam rising alx)ve the brim in a convex form. A long stream of ice was seen
extending out from the Black Cape, which led me to hope that we should find
a bay on the other side of it out of which the ice had drifled, and a place of
refuge for the night, for n\y boat's crew were fairly woni out by pulling for so
many hours against a head-sea and strong current, (running here, at times, five
or six knots an hour) and exposed to such inclement weather.

In passing a low shingle ridge, iK'fore we reached the black headland, a cairn
upon It caught mv eye through the dark gloom in which it was enveloped, and
although an ice-girt lee shore upon which a heavy surf was setting, I felt that it
was my duty to attempt a landnig to examine it. The Ixiat's head was there-
fore at once directed for the shore, and run in between two heavy grounded
masses of ice, leaving just r(K)m enough for her bows to enter ; the ridge of
shingle was too steep to haul iier up, or I should gladly have encamped there
for the night, unfavourable as was the spot for pitching our tent. We had to
walk along the ridge over snow, in some places very deep, Wforc we reached
the cairn, and, to our great disappointment, after pulling it down and carefully
examining the groimd beneath and around it, found no record whatever. It
was a small ])ile of rocks resembling a surveying mark, but when and by whom
erected no clue was left upon which to form a conjecture. We saw here recent
tracks of bears and foxes on the snow. Uetuniing to our boat, after some
ditticulty in embarking in the swell, the crew, to whom I had given a little
brandy each, pulled under its temporary influence with renewed vigour for the
Black Cape.

That harbinger of the storm, the stormy petrel or Mother Carey's chicken
(Prm-e/ldiiu pt'logicd), the first I have seen during this voyage to the Arctic
" i boat, and I fired at it but missed it, the boat rolling at the

.'srions.

pas

Bb 4

I9»

rim Poini, S.W. liny of lUfuKi-. C'iiih^ King. S.W. liy W

iiioiiKiit too linivily in the »\vt'll for Inking anvthin^ like nn uiin. Wo it Im?
roumit'd till- urn ol' iic and nulltd tluiaif;li tlii' >trrani, pu^jtinj; iK'twrcn and v<iy
cloM- to M'Vfral lnij;r lianl-waslu'd liluo niass«'H of iiv aground, on which ;i
I'oaininu: >nrf was brcakini;, and the boat pitciu'd and rolled xo intiih in the
f^round s\m11 as fa ship a Ljood chal of water, eotnpellin>j; lis to hail her out.

On rounchn^ the black headland wc entered, as I had anticipated, a tine hay,
iK'lween three and four miles deep; hut after pulling tor some distance along its
wild-looking inaccessible southern siiore without finding a nook where we coidd
hope to get the boat's '>ead in, Ining a lee sliore, ice-girt, on which a dangeioiis
surf was l)ri'aking, >i ii id to pull aiross to the opposite side, a distance of two
miles, the shore of whkh apixared in the form of low shingli' ridges, giving
promise of a IkmicIi on which we nn'ght haul up the boat in safety, as well as a
dry ridge, tree from snow, for i>i' hing the tent. At first we rowfd omt a \erv
shallow bottom, u|M)n which uc jHlibles were distinctly se»'n, in a heavy ground-
swdl, but as we niarcd flu north side got into deeixT wafer. It was half an
hour i)ast midnight when we at last succeeded m iiauling up the ixiat on the
beaili ktween some l)erg-pieees, whicii li..:I been forced up by some vast
pressure alK)ve the ordinary liigh-wafer mark.

Whilst some of the crew were employed in getting file things out of the Umt,
and securing her for the night, and others ])itching the tent on tlie shingle-
ridtic abo\c' the beach, which on landing 1 liad selecti'd lor the site, the cook
for the day lighted tlii' fire, and prepared supper. I strolled wifii my gun along
the ridge rcumd the north |)oint, where huge InTg-pieces were piled up one upon
another in chaotic confusion to the height of from twenty to tliirty teef by some
treiiietidous pressure, occasioned, doubtless, by high spring-tides and heavy
nortii- westerly gales.

The strong brt'cze we had U'cn pulling against, ' u! 'imv inc'eased to a hard
gale of wind from the sam. ipiarler, accompanied '»\ mi ■ \t ••whelming snow
drift. Thermometer "JH, and piercingly cold, — a'?'. ■>) i 'i lal night >t

that wc had encamped none too soon, for our frail ladd lu't possibly have

lived in the sea that was now rimning outside. Therefore I called the inlet the
J}ay of Uet'uge, the black headland I nameil Cape King, and to the north
point I gave the name of I'ini, after two eiifi'rprismg I'olar frii^nds, both well
l>nown for their enthusiasm in .Arctic discovery, and their plans for the rescue of
u. nissin r eoimtryman, — in the search for whom, Lii'utenant I'ini, like myself,

e Ml..i;r>;^il in the present expedition.

.',v. liiy return t' the place of our encampment, I "spliced the main brace,"
t- it is, served <i< extra rations, in the present instance, of liacon and Hurtoii
lie, to tliv boat's crew fur their suiiper. after their long day of toil and exposure.

Mtlehtd i» M. irairmkk, MM.

M'C'drmick Iliiy.
(\amtil bji the IfyilrDyrit/j/ier i ■ the AiOniralti/.)

It WI18 '2.'M) A.M. licfore wc turned into our fi a-bagn for the night; mine was,
however, Htill wet, and I lay down on tlic tmrt'ni > rug a.s on the preceding night.
Sunday, 22d. — Having retired to rest late ast night, or rather enrU this
morning, we did not rise until lO.ilO a.m. It w - still blowing a hard north-
westerly gale, with snow-drifl and overea.st tl\ k weather; so bitingly cold
was the air within the tent, that sleeping, as . always dn, at the weather
end, where the wind blows in under the canvas, nv hands felt quite Ix-numbed
throughout the night, from tlieir having been expo (d, in the al)sence<)« mytelt-
bag covering. I shaved for the first time since leaving tlie ship, an<l made my
toilet under the lee «)f the lM)at. After our customary breakfast of chiocolate,
cold bacon, and biscuit, I took from my pocket a li tic prayer book, which had
lx*en my companion years gone by to both the I'o >'s, North and South, and
round the world, from wiiich I read to my boat's rew part of the morning
service, finishing with a short exteinporar}- prayer, which suggested itself at
the moment, as iK'.st fitting the occasion.

At 12.30 I left the tent, accompanied by three of m v men, for the sunnnit of
Ilogier Head, — which I named after an old friend v\ ho had been engaged in
African discovery, — a bold cniggv promontory, tiiiove ti e hundred feet in height,
overhanging the sea, and about tliree miles distant fron our encampment. Our
course lay over some snow-clad ridges up a gradual a rent. At 1.4.5 p.m. we
reached the summit, from which a wide and wild sceiv of desolation met the
gaze ; whiche\cr way the tye was directed a grand t:id sublime spectacle
presented itself, to which the fury of the tempest lent ai, iwful interest.

Benea'h the precipitous face of the overhanging crag on which I was seated,
the surf was furiously lashing the narrow strip of black shiiglc beach at its base,
margined by a l)elt of shallow water, the limits of w hich verc well defined by a
turbid greenish apjK'arance, contrasting strongly with thi dark, very dark, blue
colour of the water beyond. Along the edge of this zone oi shoal water, countless
white whales were swimming down channel, literally spe; king, in a continuous
stream. Amongst them, here and there, one of a pic-bahl C( lour ; and sometimes
the bock of a straggler or two appearing in the discoloured water itself; all,

C c

196

MltctUU uy J4. .I^'CVtmh*-. ifc..*

Franklin Beacon, bearing S.K. by K,

doubtless, iniffrating to less rigorous seas, whilst open water afforded them a
passage to the southward. Over head, a solitary kittiwake {Lariis tridactylm)
hovered with uplifted wing, as it breasted the violent gusts of wind that at
intervals swept past, driving along dense volumes of mist from the mysterious
north, which came rolling over the dark surface of the channel, on the opposite
side of which, the bleak and barren snow-streaked cliff's of Cornwallis Land
l)ounded the horizon to the westward, terminating in a black point forming its
north eastern extremity, about the position of Cape De Haven, half concealed
in gloom and mist. To the north westward, Baillie Hamilton Island, loomed,
like a dark bank of clouds alK)ve the horizon : three or four glistening patches
of white light, reflected upon the surface of the dark water through some hidden
aperture in the clouds, shone with the brightness of molten silver, amid the
surrounding lurid atmosphere ; rendering, the whole scene altogether a fit
subject for the \tenv'\\ of a Claude. We commenced our descent of the mountain
;it 2.30 P.M., and having taken as careful a survey of the vicinity of our encamp-
ment as the thick and unfavourable state of the weather would permit of,
reached the tent at 'X'M) p.m., without finding any cairn or traces of any one
having landed here before us. Onlv the tracks of a l)ear und fox on the snow
were seen. This morning, on starting, a small piece of drift wood was picked
up alnne the present high water mark ; and last night another nuisk ox skull
was found by some of the boat's crew. It was the skull of a cow, the horns
l)eing small, and a space l)ctween their bases on the forehead, and not in such a
good state of preservation as the last. This gives me sanguine hopes that I
may yet fall in with the living animal itself, before the winter drives us back
to the ship. Discouraging as there is no denying our present prospects
certainly are, we must at all hazards solve the Banng Bay problem first. On
reaching the tent we found dinner all ready, and a warm mess of preserved
mutton very acceptable. A dismal nighf — thermometer 2.5°.

Monday 2.3d. — It blew in heavy s(|ualls all last night. About 9 o'clock this
morning, however, a lull taking place, I resolved to make an attempt to reach
Baring Bay as soon so the sea should sufficiently go down for launching the
boat, .\fter breakfast we erected a cairn on the low shingle ridge where the
tent stood, and deposited beneath it a tin cylinder containing a record of our
visit. The upper extremity of the bay was still covered with the smooth
winter's floe, which had not yet broken up.

Memo. — A twat expedition from Her Majesty's ship " Norili Star," at Ertlmg
and Terror Bay, Beechey Island, in search of .Sir John Franklin, encamped here.

197

Bkilrlica by B. 31'Ct.rmkt. JlJi'.

Ciipo Osborn, bearing N. (Magnetic.)

at 12.30 A.M. on Sunday, August 22d, during a gale of wind, and left for Baring
Bay on the following morning at 10.30.

No traces found.

R. M'CoRMicK, Officer Commanding Party.

August 23rd 1852.

At 10.45 A.M., as we were about to start, I shot a sandpiper ( Tringa maritimn)
on the beach. On rounding the outer point we found a considerable swell out-
side, with a strong breeze to pull against, passing Rogier Head, the headland
wc ascended yesterday, and another adjoinmg promontory ; we had to contend
with a short head sea, in a deeply laden boat, with a damaged rudder almost
useless, compelling us at times to use a steer-oar in addition to keep her head to
the sea, along as dreary and desolate a looking coast as I ever recollect having
seen in these regions. The land appeared like a vast wreath of deep snow
banked up against the horizon, its continuity broken only by deep gullies in
one or two places, with not the smallest bight or indentation along its ice-encum-
bered shores, on which a heavy surf was breaking, where a boat could find shelter
during a gale of wind.

After a most lal)orious pull of four hours we reached the steep and almost
perpendicular ridge of Cape Osborn, a bold headland of rounded form, white
with snow, excepting where a dark blotch appeared just below its summit, formed
by the bare rock of the projecting buttresses. This cape may be considered the
nortliernmost boundary of Wellington Strait, which here expands out into the
broader Queen's Channel. At 1.45 p.m. we passed a very remarkable isolated
mass of rock, rising abruptly from the steep face of this ridge about one tliird
from the summit.

It bore a striking resemblance to the bust of a human figure of burly form, and
habited in a cloak and cap ; the horizontal layers of limestone rock, of which it is
composed, l)cing so arranged as to give the cloak a caped appearance; a slab of the
limestone in front of the figure, fancy might liken to a book. This singular
specinKMi of sculpture from the hands of nature, worked out of the rock by the
imitcd chisels of time and weather, removing the softer portions and leaving the
harder standing forth in strong relief, — I transferred a fac simile of it to my
sketchl)ook imiicr the name of " Franklin's Beacon," whose attention it could
not fail to attract, pointing as it does to those unknown and unexplored regions
which lie beyond, around the Northern Pole, untrodden by the foot of man
since creation's dawn, and in the deep recesses of which, doubtless, lies huiilcu
his mysterious fate, of which our search, thus far, unhappily has failed to elicit
the slightest trace.

At 4 I'.M. we doubled Cape Osborn, on the north side of which a huge pile of
dirty yellow-looking old berg-pieces of ice la}- aground in the turi)id greenish
shoal water which skirts the coast all the way to Baring Bay, extending out
from the hunnnock-fringcd l)each to tiie distance of a niiie or t\vo aii<i lipwaiiis,
and along which a heavy ground swell sets upon the shore in a successicn of

C c 2

1 11

198

SUtcht^tht H. MCrmifk. «_V.

"Forlarn Hope," running under the lee of Two Icebergs, aground in the Wellington Channel, in
a gale of Wind, 23d August 1852.

long rollers, through which it would have l)cen utterly hop'less for any boat to
have attempted reaching the land in safety. The coast from Cape Osborn
trending round to the N.K. brought the wincl more aft, enabling us to make sail,
and for some time we made considerable progress, dashing through the hea\v cross
sea that was running at the rate of five or six knots an lioiu". Having the breeze
with us now, the only chance lefl us was to run the gauntlet for Baring Bay,
in the hope of finding there some haven of shelter after rounding Point Eden,
which still appeared at a fearful distance ahead of us ; and the long line of
foaming crest:; sweeping over the broad expanse of troubled waters which lie
lx?tween, threatening to ingulf our small frail bark ere we reached it. A\'hen
we had got about midway between Cape Osbom and this point our situation
l)ecame a truly perilous one ; the boat was taking in water faster than we could
bale it out, ana she was settling dow n so nuich as not to leave a streak free ;
laiwuring and rising heavily and sluggishly to each successive sea, so that all
expectccl every moment that she would fill and go down the first sea that struck her,
from which only the most careful and watchlul attention to the helm preserved
her. Fortunately for us, at this critical moment, too small bergs aground
providentiaJlv appeared on the port-l)ow, and I inunediately ran Ibr them, in
the hope ot finduig the water smooth enough under their lee to enable us, by
lowering the sail and lying on our oars, to thoroughly bale out all the water
from the Iwat, which was now nearly full ; in this we happily succeeded whilst
lying only a tew feet from the Ixirgs in comparatively (juiet water, jirotected l)y
their blue hard washed sides from the seas which broke over them to windward,
reljounding upwards in foaming columns of surf and spray, which dashed high
alxjve their summits from forty to fifty teet in height, presenting a w ild scene, at
once grand, sublime, and awful.

On agsiin making sail our small over-laden skiff, no longer water-logged,
Inmnded onwards over every sea i>!.)re freely and buoyantly than before ; but
as we opened Baring Bay, the great body of water which was setting into it

• « 4 V 11 t.

Iw.»l.

from the broad expanse of tiie wueen's Ciiannel, with the wind and

from the N.W., caused such heavy rolling seas to tumble in ujwn the shore.

199

Hkclcliett lit H. .VCiniiick, R..\.

Mount Providcnco, liaring Hay. Bearing West (Slagnetic).

that our crippled rudder was entirely swept away, and we had great difficulty in
steering with an oar a boat so deep in such a sea ; and had to get one out on
each quarter to keep her head to the sea and prevent her broaching to, when
nothing could have saved her from foundering instanter.

The shores all round this bay presented a perfectly flat surface, level with the
floe,— which still, though broken up, filled the upper part of it, — and extending to a
considerable distance inland, bounded by a slightly undulating ridge of hills in the
horizon, averaging, perhaps, a hundred and fifty feet in height. But one point in
these inhospitable shores seemed to offer the faintest hope of a, place of shelter.
This was a black mount on the south side, of somewhat conical form, having a trun-
cated summit, with shingle ridges in front ; and from its marked and conspicuous
appearance amid the wide surrounding waste of snow, had particularly attracted
my attention, from our first opening the bay, as it appeared to me the only spot
accessible for ice. It was flanked on the west by an inlet, still covered by the
winter's floe. On this spot I had from the first centred all my hopes of finding
a harbour of refuge. Putting the boat, therefore, right l)efore the wind, I ran
for it through a turbulent ground swell, over a long extent of several miles of
shoal water of a dirty green colour, showing the fragments of rock and pebbles
at the Ijottom on nearing the shore, when two points for Ircaching the boat
offered ; one on the port bow, forming a curious natural basin of quadrangular
shape, enclosed on all sides by a narrow ledge of black '•neks and shingle,
excepting in front, where an ojiening was left just large enough to admit the
boat. Into this, being the nearest, my boat's crew were very anxious to take her
tlioroughly worn out as they were by a day of unceasing toil and danger, amid
which their cool and manly conduct was Kn'ond all praise. And on losing the
rudder and tiller, with which I always myself steerea the boat, the ice quarter-
master especially proved himself an expert hand at the steer oar at a moment
when we were obliged to have one out on each quarter to keep the boat's head
to the heavy cross sea that was running, to pre\ent her from broachiiig-to. I
objected, however, to the little land-locked harbour for the boat, on the ground
of the chance of being entrapped within it l)y a change of wind bringing the ice
down upon it, and thus preventing us from so readily getting out again ; and also
from the low, boggy ground, exposed on all sides to the weatlier, being
unfavourable for pitching the tent. I, therefore, stood on for the IJluck Mount,
ahead, and was fortunate enough to find at its base a sloping beach for hauling
up the boat iK'tween some grounded hummocks of ice, backed by a shingle
ridge, dry and free from snow, on which we pitched the tent at 8 p.m., sheltered
by another ridge still higher, above which rose the Black Mount. I ascended
this eminence, whilst the bout's crew were lighting the fire and getting supper
ready. From its sunmiit I saw the ice closely packed all round the bay by the
wiml now blowing up it, and that this was the only spot where a boat could
possibly have founsl a place of shelter along tlie whole line or' coast, from the
bttv we' left this morning, to as far as the eve could reach bevond us to the north-

C'c 3

. 200

ward, rendering the navigation of the Wellington Channel extremely dangerous
lor boats at a late and boisterous season of the year. 1 saw a flock of geese on
the passage here, and another arose from a lake on our arrival. A small frag-
ment of drift wood was picked up on the hill. After spreading all our wet
c-lothes on the shingle to dry, everything in the l)oat having been drenched with
sea water, we had tea and preserved Itcct' for supper, and turned in at midnight,
truly thankful to God for our providential escape. 'I'hemi. 27°.

Tuesday, 24th. — Breakfasted at 8..TO a.m. As it was still blowing a north*
westerly gale, preventing our attempting anything lurther with the boat, I
started at 11.30 a.m., accompanied by one of the bout's crew, on'an excursion
along shore, with the view of ascertaining the state of the ice, and selecting the
Iwst route for sledging roimd the top of the bav should a continuance of the
present boisterous weather render boating oiK'rations wholly impracticable.

On passing a small lake al)out a (jua cr of a mile from the encampment, wc
saw two eider ducks (Anas moUissiimi) with eight young ones swinnning on it.
I shot the whole of the broods and oik of the old ducks, the other made its
escape. Our course at first lay over flat, swampy, boggy ground covered with
snow, through which a few straggling tutts of moss, lichens, saxifrages, poppies,
and a small species of juncus made their appearance at intervals ; the whole inter-
sected by very low narrow ridges of shingle and a chain of small lakes. The
winter's floe had all the appearance of having been recently broken up by the
late gales setting a heavy swell into the ba\-, which had ground it into fragments
and hummocks mixed with sludge. A thick fog coming on, accompanied by
snow drift sweeping over the bay from the northward, and concealing the out-
line of its shores, I struck across the low land for the ridge of hills which Iwiinds
it inland, passing several isolated masses of rock which, as they appeared through
the snow at a distance, so much resembled piles of stones artificially heaped up,
that dwelling, as our thoughts constantly did, on cairns and memorials, we were
fre(picntly — until the eye l)eeame familiar with these deceptions — induced to
diverge from our course to examine them. On ascending the ridge we followed
it back to the head of the inlet (south of our encampment \ which is nearly two
miles dec] and narrow at its entrance, l)eing not more than about a quarter of a
mile in bn ulth, but expanding out to double that width. We walked round
several laki • on the ridge of hills, and heard the monotonous mournful cry of
the red-throu! 1 divers ( Colijmhus sepfeniriotiulis ) in the vicinity, but the fog,
had lx;coine S(. ick as to conceal them from view. On descending from the
ridge down a t inal black clift" inland of the tent, we had to make head against
the gale, whii rove the cutting snow-drift in our faces with the thcrniometer
at 29^ We it ued the cncamninent at 5 p.m., having only had a shot at a tern,
and seen the ti ^ of a fox. 'I'lie ice-(]uaitermuster and another of the lK)at's
crew returned n after us from a ramble round the other side of the inlet,
having found t; skeleton of a bear.

Wednesday, 2")th. — Rose at G a.m. ; no improvement in the weather ; a quantity
of sludge ice driven in shore, which was tiist l)eginning to Ik.' cemented together
i)y the formation of young ice, forming an iinpassuble In-lt for our boat, in fnmt
of the encampment. Still too tliick and lujistcroiis for boating or sledging.
After breakfast I visited tiie small lake again, and shot three ducks out of a
fiock of eight yonnii \)'mtiu\s (Anns fiiuddriitu]. After my return to the tent
witli tlieni, one of the l«)at's crew killed the lemuining five. We had some of
tluin for dinner, and found them excellent eating. Saw two or three sandpipers
and wounded an Arctic gull [Lexfris jxinixifln/.s), \n\t notwitiistnnding that the
tiiumb, or tip of tlie wing was Itroken, it succeeded in getting awav.

I walked aiterwards to the top of tlie west inlet, acc()ini)anied by two of iii\
party, in search of tlie remains of tiie skeleton of the bear, tiiey having on first
finding it brougiit back with tiiini tiie skull and jielvis. After a long search, we
at last hit ujjon the spot, where a rib was projecting from tiie sniiw, k'neath
which we found most of the vertehne, dci ply imbedded in the richest lied of
moss we had yet seen, the result, doulitless of tiie manure arising from the
decomposition of the animal's carcase; allhoiigh from the bleached appearance
and lioney-C(mil el state of the bones, a long series of winter snows would seem
to have mantled over them since Hniin (Iniuircd his limrc nnwirMf friimo n +v.«-
vards above the head of the inlet to breathe his lust on terra finiia, whether in

201

sickness or old age, to become food for the foxes, who had rendered the skeleton
incomplete by walking off with most of the ribs and long bones to feast off at
tiieir leisure. All that remained I collected, and we returned to the tent through
a heavy hail-storm and densely overcast sky, with thick mist, and the thermo-
meter at 25°. Saw some red-throated divers on one of the largest lakes, two
tern, and the track of a fox. In the afternoon, the wind shifting round to the
westward, and the weather somewhat moderating though still very squally, I set
about making preparations for our sledging journey; the wind now setting
directly up the bay, packing the ice so close as to render any attempt with the
boat utterly hopeless. Having stowed the sledge with four days' provisions, we
dug a trench and made a cache of the remainder of our provisions, filling it up
with shingle as a protection against the bears during our absence. The boat was
hauled up on the second ridge on which the tent stood, and turned bottom-up,
with the gear and spare clothes stowed underneath, as a precaution against high
tides, which might probably rise higher than usual under the influence of heavy
westerly gales.

Thursday 26th. — I was stirring at 3 a.m. Morning gloomy and overcast,
with snow. Wind round to the eastward and moderated. Thermometer 24".
Walked down to the lakes where I shot the ducks ; it had frozen over during
the night ; took a sketch of the encampment from it. Three or four snow bunt-
ings {Emberiza nivalis) were flitting about on the ridge above the tent, saluting
us with their lively cheerful note. Yesterday a red-throated diver was shot on
one of the lakes by one of our party. At 5 a.m., I roused out the boat's crew,
and we had our chocolate, biscuit, and bacon breakfast.

The progressive fall in the temperature, with the rapid formation of young
ice, together with the Iwisterous north-westerly gales, which had packed the
broken up winter's floe upon the shore in front of our tent, forming a belt of
hummocks and sludge half a mile in breadth, and daily increasing in extent,
cutting us off from the open water, and requiring only a few calm days to cement
it altogether, and render the present position of the boat inextricable, were
immistakeable signs that the season for boating operations was past ; and so soon
as a southerly wind from off the land should drive the ice out, no time was to be
lost in getting her into the open channel. All, therefore, that now remained
to be done was to complete the exploration of tins bay by an overland journey.

C c4

SJttlelifl hf H. Jtl\>rmirk.

Owt-n Point, distniit Kive Xlili'x, bearing K.S.K.

Si,i:i)(iK Exclusion norM) Bakinu Bay.

Having struck the tent, and stowed it on the sledge, with our felt bags,
buffalo rol)es, four days' provisions, and an " Etna " with spirits of wine for
fuel, we started at 8 a.m. ; reached the first low rocky point in the curve of
the bay, two miles distant, at 9 a-m. Our course lay over the low snow-clad
ridgt's of shingle. From this our encampment hill and boat how N.
(magnetic), but here the variation is so great, as almost to reverse the
points of the compass. At 9.30 a.m. we struck off more inland, in the
direction of the ridge of hills, to avoid a curve of the bay, crossing over a
level tract of marshy lK>g, covered with snow ; on which one ol the party picked
up a small spider. At 10.15 a.m. crossed a rivulet over a pebbly bed, from
which some animal was seen on one of the shingle ridges ; but at tw> great a
distimce to make out whether it was a bear or reindeer, as it disappeared liehind
the ridge, iK'fore I could get my telescope to Iwar upon it. Crossed another
anning stream, rapidly flowing over its pebbly channel, (towards the bay)
across which the sledge was carried. I made a considerable detour here in
pursuit of the stranger, without seeing onvthing more of him, and overtook the
sledge upon a l)n)ad, smo<ith, snow-clad plain, the monotonous whiteness of
which, was only i)roken by the narrow bare ridges and spits of shingle, which
intersected its surface like sbnded lines, scarcely rising above it. At 1 1 a.m. my
'larty iK-ing somewhat i'atigued with this, to them, novel work, (and dragging a
sledge over the inecjualities of land, covered with snow though it be, is a far
more lalK)rious task than over floe ice,) they had a spell of ten minutes to rest,
and take their allowance of rum, mixed with the pure water from an adjacent
lake. Saw two sandpipers here, and the track of a reindi-er ( Ceri-its tarandus),
probably that of tiie animal we lately had a glance of. At 1 1.30 a.m. reached
the head of the curve of the bay we had l)een steering for ; it contained a large
patch of l(X)se ice, a low point jutting out from it to the S.E. Point Eden Iwrc
N. from tiiis. Passed two small lakes, and heard the cry of the red-throated
diver. Alwut ikkmi the breeze dietl away to nearly a calm, and the men were
so heated l)y their exertions, that they took a spell for a few minutes. I saw
the land on the opposite side of the Queen's Channel, l)caringE.S.E. At 1 I'.M.
a portion of tlie spine of some animal was picked up ; saw two more sandpipers,
and passed another lake. The breeze spnnging up again, in less than a hour,
had freshened to a gale, accompanied by a sharp snow-drifl, which swept like
volumes of smoke, over the wide v^faste around us to the sea, which was
scattered over with streams of hununocky ice. We rested for an hour to dine,
on the side of a low shingle ridge, having the bay in ♦'ront, a lake on either side,
and another in the rear, from which we drank delicious water, with our cold
bacon and biscuit meal. Started again at .3 i».M. ; I shot a tern ( Sterna arcHcn)
'u^dT a small gap or pass, in an embankment here, skirting the bay. At 4.15 p.m.
Point Eden \yoTc N.N.W., and a peak of the land, on the opposite side of
Wellington Channel S.E.

. ifaV*^ J

203

Owen Point Encampment, North Point of Hiiring I5ny, bcnring E.S.IC. (Magnetic).

At 5.30 I'.M. filled our kettle with water from a neighbouring lake, and
having boiled it over the spirit lamp of the " Etna," made tea under the lee of
the sledge, in the midst of this wilderness of snow. Cape Osborn with Eden
Point bore N.N.W. At 6.30 p.m. started again, and at 7 i>.m. when some
distance ahead of the sledge, pioneering the way, as was my custom, I came
suddenly upon the track of the nnisk ox, close to one of those numerous
running streams, by which the chain of lakelets studding these marshy flats,
empty themselves into the bay. Tlie animal appears to have attempted crossing
over the frozen surface of the stream, but finding that the ice, which was broken
by his two fore feet, would not bear his weight, retreated, crossing his own
track in the direction of the hills, bounding the horizon to the southward. From
the appearance of the foot-prints (which measured five inches, both in length
and in breadth) it nuist have passed very recently, as there was a driving snow-
drift at the time, which would soon have cflraccci the impressions. These foot
prints, when taken in connexion with the two skulls recently found, afford, I
think, indisputable evidence that the musk ox is an inhabitant of North Devon,
at least, during the summer months ; and is, probably, now migrating to the
southward for the winter. But their course tliitherward, and how they get
across Barrow Strait, is not so easily explained ; they must, at all events, wait
till the Strait is frozen over.

The black point, with its rounded snowy top, in which the ridge of hills
environing the bay, terminates to the northward, and which we have iiad in
sight so many hours, as the goal to be reached before we pitched the tent for
the night, has for several miles appeared at the same distance, or, as the sledge's
crew would have it, receding, as mile after mile, with weary and jaded steps,
they toiled along, dragging after them the ciunbrous sledge, and still the dark
point appeared no nearer. Fairly exhausted, tiiev were compelled to take more
frequent spells to rest for a few minutes. Tiie night, however, looked so threat-
ening, the northern sky intensely black and lowering, — premonitory signs of the
wind going back to its old stormy quarter, — that I was very anxious to secure the
shelter of the point ahead for pitching the tent under, as in the exposed, wide,
and bleak waste around us, the canvass and poles supporting it would scarcely
have withstood the violence of the strong gusts of wind.

The dark sky was preceded by a very remarkably-tinted horizon in the north,
in which streaks of a fine oli\e green, alternating with bands of an amber colour,
and a rich chestiuit l)rown zone, intersected horizontally ; the side of the hills
about Prince Alfred Bay, crested by a dark neutral tint, \anishing into a leek-
green. When, within about a mile of the point, to encourage my sledge-crew,
and convince them that we were, in reality, now drawing near it, I walked on
ahead at a quickened pace and ascended to the sunnnit ; and, on descending again
to the extreme rugged point, I found them pitching the tent on the shingle-ridge
benciitii. It was exactly riiiihiiglit, and tliick vveailicr vvitli fine snow, .a fne
was soon lighted, tea prepared, and bacon and biscuit served out for supper. It

D d

S04

lUrlrlu^l I,) M. .VCormiek, »J(.

Westornmost DlufTs of Alfred Iky, liiniinp V.. liy S., anil I'cak, K.S.E., m seen from the

summit of Owen Point.

was nciirly two o'clock in the morning before we turned in, all thoroughly
knocked up with the day's exertions.

Friday 27th. — Morning overcii.4; I left the tent at 8 a.m., and whilst breakfast
was preparing, ascended the rugged point alwve our encampment to get a view
of our position. At first scramblnig over a confused pile of rocky fragments, swell-
ing out above into a broad, smooth, and round-backed hill alwut three hundred
feet in height, commanding a view of the shores of the curve of the coast to the
northward of it, laid down in the chart as Prince Alfred Bay ; an isolated
peak, apparently some little distance inland, just showing itself over the highest
range of hills on the north side ; this ridge terminating in two black table-topped
bluff headlands, running far out to the westward, but the horizon was too hazy
for making out distant objects sufficiently clear for getting the different bearings
correctly, which, as this spot promised to l)e the extreme limit of our journey,
I was the more anxious to obtain before I commenced my return, more especially
as the sun hud been hid from our view by fogs, mists, and constantly-overcast
skies, accompanying the tempestuous weather which has attended us in all our
movements since we left the ship; so that no opportunity has offered for getting
observations for the latitude and longltuf'.e, ana consequently my little pocket
sextant has remained idle in its case.

In the hope that the weather might clear up about noon, I returned to the
tent to breakfast, having seen only about hall a dozen snow-buntings flitting
about the hill-top. My party were glad to take a siesta in the tent to-day, so
knocked up were they after their laborious and toilsome forced march of yester-
day, dragging a heavily laden sledge over a distance of about thirty miles,
having actually travelled this within the space of sixteen hours, at the average
rate of rather more than two miles in an hour, resting for dinner and tea an hour
at each meal ; the longest sledging journey by far, I believe that has yet been
accomplished in one day without the aid of dogs.

At 1.30 r.M., during a temporary clearing away of the mist, I again ascended
the hill ^bove our tent, bounding the low shores of Baring Bay on the north,
which I have named Owen Point, in iioiiour of my friend Professor Owen, the
distinguished naturalist andCuvier of our own country, who has evinced a lively
interest in the Franklin search and Polar discovery.

Baring Bay, indeed, scarcely deserves the name of a bay, it is little more than
a broad sweep in of the coast, and is so shoal on entering it from the south-
ward, that I could see the pel)l)lcs at the bottom for several miles offshore; and
had good reason to rememlK-r tiie heavy ground swell that rolled over it in surges
threatening destruction to the boat every minute, in the gale which drove us
l)ef()re it, to seek the only place of shelter which the whole length and breadth
of its shores afforded under the Black Mount.

A black tabic-topped biuff, iKruriiig E. by S. by compass, forms the western-
most extremity of Alfred Bay, on the north side ; antl a little to the east-
ward of this, peering just above the high ridge of land, is a peak Iwaring

205

SkelclMl bt M. }rc<irmick, UJf.
Mount Providence, with EJon Point and Capo Osborn, N.N.W., as »een from the summit of Owen Point.

E.S.E., and being the only apparent peak, would, therefore, seem to be
Mount Franklin, as there is no nill whatever representing it in the position
in which it is laid down in the chart inland of Baring Bay. A line of
hummocks of ice as if aground appears in Baring Bay, about two leagues
from shore, which may possibly cover a shoal or very low islet. Distant land
in the Queen's Channel, apparently Baillic Hamilton Island, &c., bore from
N. by E. to N.E. by E. Cape Osborn bore N.N.W., and the Black Mount
above our boat N.W, by N. Whilst taking a sketch of the bays and distant
points, the ice quartermaster and some of the boat's crew meantime erected a
cairn on the north side of the hill, the others being employed cooking dinner,
&c., preparatory to our departure. We finished the cairn at 3.30. p.m., and

{)laccd lieneath it a tin cylinder, containing a record of our proceedings thus
ar. On descending the hill we discovered an ancient Esquimaux encampment
on its acclivity, consisting of a pile of fissile rocks of semi-circular form in
front of a natural wall of the stratified rock which jutted out from the side of
the hill. We dug beneath it, but found nothing. The rock, a dark brown
coloured limestone, highly crystalline, and the surface embossed with the
elegant scarlet lichen (Lecanorn elegans). On our return we had our usual
meal of cold bacon and biscuit, with some tea.

At !} P.M. we struck the tent to commence our return to the boat, the state of
the weather imfortimately precluding any astronomical observations beingtaken for
fixing the positions of the land, which have evidently licen laid down much in error
in the chart. Passing one of the largest lakes I had several shots at a pair of red-
throated divers ; they had a young one on the lake, which I shot, and started
again at 6.20. p.m. We encamped for the night in the jnidst of the unsheltered
waste of snow, nearly half-way t)ack to our boat at 10.30. p.m.

Saturday 28th. — At 8 a.m., breakfasted, struck the tent, and started again at
9.30 A.M. This was about the most uncomfortable night we had yet passed,
i)lowing a hard gale of wind, accompanied by a fall of snow, and clouds
of drilt, and so cold that we could not get warm all night. The wind finding its
way under the tent, shaking it so violently, that we expected every moment
the poles would give wa\-, and the cainass come clown upon us for a coverlet.
The thennonieter stood at 29". The watch during the night heard a distant
sound, like the bellowing of cattle. Trobably, the musk ox, whose foot prints I
fell in witli yesterday, but concealed i'rom view, by the ridge of hills inland of
us: for sounds tnay*l)e heard at a great distance, in the liighly rarified state of
the air, in the still solitudes of these regions. This snowy desert v,-as here and
there clotted over with boulders of rock, richly ornamented with the beautiful
and bright scarlet lichen, luid intersected by numerous rivulets and lakelets,
some of the largest of which were now half frozen over ; and the ice on the less
rapid fresh water couises permitted the sledge k-ing (juiekly drawn over by the
whole party without breaking. At 1 1 a.m. we rounded a deep curvature in the
shores of the bay, the wind edging round to its old cpiarter in the N.W., snowing
with a strong iliift. Saw three or four tern, whose vociferous clamour over

Dd2

206

our linids procluiiiu'd tlicir nnxii-ty tor the Hufcty of thi-ir vomiR, cvidtntly
not I'm- «)rt'. At intiTVulH wi* lii'iml tlie wild doi'p toned and nuiurnt'ul
VI \- of till- rcd-tliroatfd diver, ri.sin^ from Home udjncent !•'•<", nni.sie to the earH
1)1' us lone wanderern, in the dearth of life and Hound around uh. We naw one
large fl(K'k of ducks only, K"'"B wmth. At 11. ;U) a.m. crossed an ellniw of the

low shores, forming a considcrahle convexity in the bay, from which a deep

with
p fragments t.f limestone, fared with the scarlet lichen, and abundantly

■"" ■'•■".>•., r, -- .

cur\e ran up Ix-yoiid it ;
broken up fragments t.f

Inmnded on the west by a low black point, covered '

foasilifenms, more es|K'ci'illy in corallines, of which I collected some s|H-cimenH,
IIen< we U'canie enveloped in a thick fog, which, with snow, continued till we
reachcil our old encampment. At 2 p.m. crossed a patch of l(H)»e dark sand,
and the sledge party rested for a few minutes near a rapid stream, atlcr
crossing which, the sledge soon came ujion its outwanl track of yesterday. Saw
thn-e or four sandpipers, and woimded an Arctic gull ; which, falling somewhere
in a dark shingle water course, alM)ut a ([uarter of a mile from where I shot it, I
lost, after making a considerable detour from the sledge's course in search of it,
for I have not yet l)een able to obtain a s|H'cimen of this solitary bird, mostly
met with singly, or in pairs ; and of which we have seen only three or four
individuals throughout our jouniey ; all very shy and wary. On coming up
with the sledge, we were drawing near the Uhu-k Moimt, and I proceeded on
ahead of my party to sec if all was right. Reached the lK)at and cache at 4 I'.M.
in the midst of a snow storm, with the wind at N \V. Found everything as we
\vi\ thcni, with the exception of the grat'tying sight of oi)en water in the cove;
all the ice having U'en (Iriven out during our absence, by the southerly winds,
which blew for a few hours, leaving only a narrow U'lt of loose sludge near the
In-ach, and no imptidinient in th- way of getting to sea in the bout. It was just
low water, and the large urn shaix-d masses of ice were left 'n'gh an<l dry in
hollows in the IkmI of shingle which they had made for thein; '.'Ives, in the ebb
and flow of the tides, and to the rejx'ated action of which t'ley owe their hour-
glass form. On the arrival of the sledge, we pitched the tent on the old sjM)t.
A large flcK'k of ducks alighted in the bay this evening.

Simday 29th. — We did not rise until H a.m. This is the finest morning that
wc have experienced since leming the ship ; and all our clothing and l)edding
l)eing so saturated with moisture, as to prevent anv of us from sleeping last
night, I took advantage of the favourable change in the weather to have every-
tlung spread outside the tent to dry. IJeing Sunday, 1 detennined to make it a
day of rest to recruit the exhausted energies of ii>y men, M'orv we commenced
our homeward voyage. All still feeling more v less the effects of the fatigue
attending their unremitting exertions for the last two days; one evincing a
slight disposition to snow blindness, and another some dental irritation.

Afk'r tlicy had all had the great comfort of an ablution and shave, I read
part of the morning service to them in the tent. Our dinner, as yesterday,
consisted of a wann mesa of preserved mutton, soup and potatm's, with 13urton
ale. Wind round to the westward, breaking up the winter's floe in the inlet,
west of the encampment, an<l which was rapidly drifting out past us. The rise
and fall of tide here is considerable, some six feet, probably. The wind this
evening shifted to the N.W., with a fall of snow in large flakes. Night overcast
and misty, with a black looking horizon to the northward. We turned in at
9 P.M.

30-

Skctcli,a t>t Ji. ifCormlck. U..\.

Rogicr Ilcail, South.

Monday, August .'50th. — I was up this morning and outside the tent as early
ns lour o'clock to look around, and, huving well weighed both our present
jjosition and future prospects, to determine on the Ix-st course to he aclopted ;
when, taking into consideration the advanced period of the season and unpromising
appearance of the weather, that nothing further could l)c accomplished in the
search northward and eastward of this bay, I very reluctantly decided on return-
ing to the ship, and we commenced stownig the boat and making preparations
for our return.

At 9.H0 A.M., we erected a cairn on the summit of the Black Mount, which I
called Mount Providence, in conunemoration of our providential deliverance from
as perilous a position as a boat could possibly have escaped from, — placing
l)eneath the cairn a tin cylinder, enclosing a record of our proceedings, of which
the following is a copy : —

Mkmouandl'm. — A boat expedition from Her Majesty's ship " North Star,"
at Erebus and Terror Hay, IJecchey Island, in search of Sir John Franklin,
arrived here on Monday August 2'M\, at midnight, during a gale of wind and
heavy sea which carried away the rudder of the boat and nearly swamped her.

On Thursday last, sledged on the snow over the low lands round the head of
the bay, without finding any opening to the eastward or traces of the missing
expedition ; returning to the Iwat on Saturday afternoon. Weather during the
preceding week has been most unfavourable, blowing, snowing, and foggy, with
the thermometer constantly Ix'low the freezing point. The lakes frozen over,
and every appearance of wmtcr rapidly setting in.

Laiuiched the boat this morning on the making of the tide, to return down
Wellington Strait and examine the bays along its eastern shores. A memonm-
diun of our sledge journey has lieen deposited under a cairn erected on the
summit of the northern point of the bay.

R. M'ConMicK,

Monday, August .'JOth, 1852. Officer Commanding Party.

To the inlet running up on the west side of Mount Providence, from S.S.W,
to N.N.E., I gave the name of Dragleybeck, in commemoration of the birthplace
of Sir John Barrow, Bart., and in compliment to his son, John Barrow,
Esq., of the Admiralty, E.K.S., who, following up his father's career, has earne(l
for himself a distinguished position in the history of Arctic discovery by his
noble and unceasing eft'orts m furthering the search for the brave but ill-fated
Franklin and the rest of our long-lost countrymen.

The clinin of lakelets on the moorland 1 named, after two near relatives, the
Louisa and Marianne Lakes.

Dd3

nthhtU tit H. MV.rmtrk. C.V.

(Hakliii's ItcncoD, S.S.E.

Dcttccndiii^ to the ridgf, which is* alH)iit fifty fcvt ul»ovc the l)t'nfh, and tVoin
thence to the lower one on which tlie tent Htundn, we struck it, and erected
another ciiim on the spot where it stcKxl. The rocks here are spurinply fossili-
i'crouH. It wuH a very low tide this morning, l)eing out u hundred ii-et IVoin the
last high-water mark.

\\\qt a luncheon ot' cold bacon and ale, to fortify the Imat's crew for their
long pvill they had iK-fore them to the next Iwy, against a head wind and pinch-
ingly cold air, wc alnrnt n(M)n launched the boat In'tween the heavy hunuiKx-ks
of ice aground, five or six feet in height when high and dry. Had snow, fog,
and mist, with a short head-sea to butfct with ; the droi)s of water Iroze on the
blades of the oars as they rose from the sea after each stroke, and accunudating
till the lower edges iK'came iringed with uendant icicles ; the water shipped over
the l)ow8 soon froze at the bottom of tne boat, so that had there been much
sea on wc should soon have had a very dangerous kind of inuuoveable glacier-
like ballast.

We saw a seal or two, a flock of ducks, a few dovekies, fulmar |)etrel,and the
arctic gull. At (J. I.') p.m., on rounding Kden Point, the trending of thy coast in
a S.W. direction enabled us to make sail. We carried away a. temporary rudder
which we had constructed just k-fore we started out of the head of a c.isk from
the wreck of the " M'Lellen," American whaler, lost by the unlbrtuiiate but
enterprising seaman, Captain (juayle.

At 7''^*' I'-M. we doubled ('ape Osborn, and, a (jiiaitcr of an hour afterwards,
Franklin's Beacon, standing tbrth through the mist in strong relief from llie side
of the ri<lge. At \):M) p.m. reached our old place «-f encam|)ment in Uefiige
Bay. I'ound much more snow here than when we lell it last, king \cry (lce|>
in places. Pitched the tent dose to our cairn, snowing all the time, and
pinching work to the men's lingers. 'riierrMomcter '2' . 'i'iie stati' of the tide
prevented us from hauling up the boat on the sliingle ridge, which, for greater
security, I always get doni; it possible ; we were therefore obliged to let her rick-
in the cove with an anchor out on shore.

Tuesday 31st. — 'i'he morning's dawn brought with it the same kind of
weather as yesterday — snow, mist, and fog. Rose at (i.Iid a.m. The first fox
f Curtis l(i<((i/)us) was seen by the watch last niLiiit near the Itoat ; represented to
have been of a brown and white colour. 1 lound my aneroid barometer this
morning (piite useless, having sustained some injury from being thrown on the
beach in the cl'jtlies-bag in clearing the boat, and into which it had been acci-

9()9

dcnUlly put. Thin vim a mrlous lews fn mc, m I had intended meaguring all
the hcightM with it in returning down channel.

Fnttn the Point \ took Hketcheii oCtho two (;*pcN Houth of the bay, together
with the opposite couftt of CJomwallis Land.

At 2.4ft H.M. Having embarked everything, we pulled all round the bay,
cUmely cxanriiuing itit Hhoren, and landing nt all remarkablf pointn. At alumt
half II mile from the top got ttomidings m thirteen fathom.s, and within le»8 than
a cftble'M length of the shore the Roundin^^s gave four fnthoma very regidarly
The v'iiiter'H flin- hud not yet broken up in a creek at its Bouth-westem.
extremity, ami young ice had formed here to the thickness of four inches.
This is the only safe and well-sheltered bay along the whole of this coast for
anchoring a ship.

Saw several seals, gulls, and dovekies, and shot one of the latter. lianded
at u little cove for a few minutes to examine the rocks, and sounded oj^ain, still
getting four fathoms. At H.'M) p.m. landed near a black dirt" in a thick snow
storm, and examined a remarkable-looking ravine running up from it.

().;»() I'.M.— 'Had tt) pull through a quantity of sludge ice round the outer
point in clearing the bay. Took a sketch of the headlands and entrance to the
Ituy from the southward. Shot at and struck a seal, but he escaped us. Saw
four or five ducks.

At H.;j() I'.M. doubled the next Cape, to which I gave the name of Toms,
after my friend the Assistant Surgeon of the " North Star," an enterprising
young otticer. At 9-'"> i'.m, passed the Point where the cylinder and memo-
randa were I'ound coming up channel, v/hich I called Domville Point, after
my friend and brother-othccr the Surgeon of the '• Resolute." About 10.30 p.m.
entered I'jnery May, and encamped on a tine hard shingle ridge.

Wednesday, September 1st. — 1 was awoke between 3 and 4 o'clock this
morning by the ice (luarter-master, who had the watch, running into the tent,
and reporting that our boat was swamping in the surf by a sudden squall
coming on with the tlood-tide. On hastening down to the beach I found her
broadside on, and half full of water and sand. On getting her round, head to
sea and stem in-shore, we succeeded, after some labour and a thorough
drenching, in getting everything out of her, and hauling her up above the
shingle ridge ; capsizing her as soon as she was sufficiently clear of the
breakers, to empty out the water and sand. It now blew a hard north-westerly
gale ; the sky was densely overcast, and the air pinchingly cold : thermo-
meter 2<r.

Urcakfasted at 8 a.m. The boisterous state of the weather not affording the
slightest prospect of oui; being able to make a move to-day, with such a sea
running outside ; therefore, after drying the things, and repairing the damages
sustained by the morning's disaster — fortunately nothing of a more serious
nature to our provisions than the soaking of an ullage of biscuit in salt water—
I planned an excursion round the inland ridges of hills ; and, to spread the search
more widely, separated our party into three divisions of two men in each,
taking our guns m the hope of meeting with some game, such at least as these
desolate shores have to offer. We started at 5 p.m., leaving only the cook tor
the day in charge of the encampment, and a gun to defend himself from bruin,
should it be needed. I directed one division to ascend the ridges south of the
bay, another directly inland, whilst myself, accompanied by one of the boat's
crew, proceeded up the hill to the north; first, passing through a romantic-
looking, deep, imd narrow ravine, with steep precipices on either side formed of
limestone rock, banded horizontally in places with veins of gypsum three or
four inches in thickness. I entered this ravine last night, whilst supper was getting
read}', and traced the foot-prints of a fox to his domicile in the rocks ; but saw
nothing of him this morning. Following a zig-zag course for about a mile ; the
black crags breaking through the white mantle of snow which now deeply
covers the land, gave it a very picturesque appearance, terminating in an open
space between the hills. On emerging, we ascended the hill bounding it on
the right, and shaped a south-easterly course, so as to fall into the track of the
other divisions of our party on the central ridge. On sighting them we
descended to the shores of the bay, examining the beach all round to the encamp-
ment, without meeting with the slightest traces or indication of any one having
preceded us here, and not a livina thinir to break the death-like stillness and
^ ^ Dd4

aio

Sketched bf X. JTCurmiri, UJi'.

Cnpo Toiii», boariiig S.W.

utter desolation of the scene. We reached the tent at 7 p.m., and the other
parties returned soon afterwards with tlie same resuUs.

When on the highest ridges, I carefully observed the appearances of the land
in an easterly direction within the extent of vision for any apparent break of
continuity that might afford an indication of water beyond, never losing sight
of the possibility of Jones's Sound sweeping round in its course near the heads of
some of the deeper iidets of the Welhngton Channel, taking a westerly course
from Baffin's Bay in the direction of Baring Bay, as .Jones's Sound is representeci
to (io in the chart. But neither Baring Bay nor the two other bays that 1 have
sinc( closely examined af^'ord any indication of the vicinity of ()])en water. An
intermediate series of ridjjes of hills, one just rising above the other, and for the
most nart running parallel with the coast, bound the tops of all the bays ;
and I havi? never seen the gulls or other sea-fowl fly inlr.nd to the eastward,
although i have at all times watched them narrowly in their flight.

Thursday, 2d. — Breakfasted at 7 a.m. The violent gusts of wind, accompanied
by heavy snow-drifl, during the night, nearly blew down our tent, and the air
was excessively cold. Anxiously waiting for the gale to abate, to proceed on
our voyage. After sketching the encampment and the adjacent hills, I walked
up the ravine, and filled a haversack with specinieits from the gypsum vein.
Dined at 1 .30 i'.m., and built a cairn near the tent, under which 1 deposited a
tin cylinder, enclosing the usual record of our proceedings. The gale al)ating
during the day, as soon as the sea had sufficiently subsided I took advantage
of the temporary lull to start at 4 i*..m., notwithstanding a dark threatening
horizon, with the hope of reaching our old ([uarters in (Jriffin Bay Ixifore we
should encounter a second edition of the gale, which it was but too evident
was brewing up in the north. On starting, saw a solitary snow-hunting on the
beach. We sounded in crossing the bay with a line of twenty-three fathoms,
and no bottom at this depth. The ridges round the top of the bay have a mean
height of about two himdred feet.

1 sailed round the next semicircular bay, which I called " I'itton Ray," after
an old friend and distinguished geologist. Dr. Fitton (who was the first to
direct my attention to the structure of that highly interesting and remarkable
island, Kerguelen's Land — Desolation Isle of Captain Cook— in the southern
seas). Closely and carefully examined its shores and ridges, and got soundings in
from four to five fathoms at a hundred yards from the beach. There is no shoal
water in cither of these bays, both being deep. The boat got into heavy rollers
outside of the headl.mds ; one or two of which struck her, filling us with more
water than we needed, having had enough of that element already. A black
threatening sipiall rising to windward, we exerted every effort to reach Griltin
Bay iK'fore it overtook us. At .').U0. I'.M. we rounded Cape Ciritmell, in a snow
storm, into smooth wafer. Saw the provision cairn on the point, and two seals
Hwimining. Sailed chtse in shore round the bay, which is margined by a shingly
beach, with hummocks of ice aground all round (as usual on all these shores',

211

Sketched by R. MCormkk, BJf.

Domvillc Point, N.

backed by a ridge of hills from 100 to 200 feet in hight, receding inland in the
form of an amphitheatre.

On first rounding the north point, an arm of the bay runs into the N.E. ; here
we passed a snug little creek enclosed in the shingle banks, leaving an opening
just sufficient for admitting a boat, secure from ice and weather ; but having a
fair wind, I was anxious to make the most of it, inauspicious as was the aspect
of the heavens.

We reached the top of the bay, which is about six miles in depth, at 7 p.m.,
and found a low shingle and mud flat, backed by boggy ground, and extending
inland to the base of the amphitheatre of hills, interspersed near the beach by
pools of water, which appeared to be full of small fish, as the gulls were far
more numerous here than at any other spot we have yet visited. A large group
of kittiwakes and fulmar petrel, with an ivory gull or two amongst them, were
evidently making a good harvest, repeatedly rising with a fish about the size of
a pilchard in their beaks after each rapid downward plunge in the water. A
solitary arctic gull was actively carrying on at the same time his buccaniering
depredations amongst them whenever an opportunity offered for robbing an
unlucky gull of its prey, by compelling it to drop the fish Avith a scream, which,
with great tact, was caught by this sea rover before it dropped into the water.

I ran the boat's head m, but the water was so shoal that she grounded at too
great a distance from the beach to effect a landing ; and just as I was about
stepping out at a more favourable spot, a little further on, with the intention of
shooting some of the birds and obtaining specimens of the fish they had
swallowed, a bear was discovered on the floe which filled up the inlet at the
S.W. comer of the bay. Bruin lieing considered by all hands, and certainly not
the least so by myself, higher game than the gulls, the sail was hoisted instanter,
and the boat's head in a tew minutes was dashing through the swell (which was
now setting into the more exposed part of the bay ) before the wind in the direction
bruin was leisurely pacing along the ice, on the look out for a seal, several of
which were swimmmg about the bay. Before we reached the floe, which was of
young ice already six inches in thickness, he had, however, taken alarm, and
made oft" for the land, disappearing behind a point jutting out from the inlet.

Finding that the squall whicL had been threatening for some time was
now coming in good earnest upon us, I brought the boat's head round for the
south headland of the bay, the site of our former encampment upon the way up
channel, in a sheltered cove a little within the headland; but as we became more
and more exposed to the sea setting into the bay, in a boat so deep in the water,
and so leaky from one of her planks having been stove in by the ice in the bad
weather we had been incessantly exposed to, the water from the leak, togetlier
with the occasional shipping of a sea, so gained upon us, notwithstanding that a

Vian>1 wiia kont iinrAnainrrl V tinlincr lif-r nut. nnrl hfivinof nn riifldpr. wo hild to lu'nr
..»..» ....^ ..^|.., , — w..— Q.J ~.„ — p, , .-..j^—.- --, - ^

the nearest land to us, distant nearlv two miles, althous

learly

212

Sketrknl by «. M-C..rmuk, R.X.

Eiicampnu'iit in Gritlin Hay.

Icc ^horc. on which a heavy surf was breaking. We got soundings in twelve
fathoms, and saw a second bear. Selecting the most favourable spot tiiat olfered
for beacliing the Iwat, in a curve of the coast somewhat protected from the
rollers by a low point, we backed her in stern ibremost, letting go the anchor
over the bows, and running a line out astern to the shore so as to keep her head
to the sea till everything was got out of her, and fortunately landed without
sustaining any damage from the surf, which was breaking heavily against the
boat's quarter, save and except a drenching to ourselves.

Belbre we had hauled her up Ixjtwcen the masses of ice into a place of
security for the night, on the shmglc beach the thermometer fell as low as 25°.
The air was bitingly cold, and snowing all the time.

After pitching the tent on a fine hard shingle ridge, dear of snow, the fire
lighted, and supper, with a cup of warm tea, under cover of the canvas, wo turned
into our felt-bags for the night, and soon forgot our toils in a sound sleep.

Friday, 3d. — Passed the most comfortable night that we have yet had, the
ground licing hard dry shingle on which our buH'alo rolxjs were spread. We
were confined within the tent all day by stress of weather, which has l)cen
most winterly. Blowing, as usual, a hard north-westerly gale, with heavy snow
drift, half burying the tent, the sky overcast with a dense mist, and continuous
fall of fine snow. Thennometer throughout the day standing as low as 26",
and the air piercingly cold. The fire outside of the tent too'; double the usual
time in l)oihng the Kettle ; and the pemmican which we had for dinner to-day,
for the first time since we left the ship, was hard frozen when taken out of the
case.

I had a shot at an eider duck which alighted in the bay. A lew glaucus
gulls (Larm glaucus) flew past the little inlet, which I named Sophia Cove. I
occupied myself this evening with my plans of search. Had the last of our
Burton ale to-daj', and turneu into our sleeping-bags at about 10 p.m.

Saturday, -Ith. — Weather much the same as yesterday, prevented us from
putting to sea ; but, as the wind and snowdrift had somewhat abated, I formed
a party for a bear-hunting excursion to the top of the buy, when just as we
were getting our guns ready for starting bruin himself anticipated our purpose
by suddenly makmg his appearance, and thus saved us a day's buffetting with
this inclement weather. One of the Iwat's crew having reported him in sight,
on going outside of the tent I saw a fine full-grown bear (IJrsus muritimux)
sauntering leisurely along the l)each, about midway l)ctwecn us and a point
towards the entrance to the bay, to which I gave the name of Bear Point. As
his c.nirse was direct for the encampment, I onlcrcd my party within the tent,
to avoid alanuing him, whilst I watched his movements from the door. Bruin,
however, evidently suspecting that all was not right, suddenly altered his course
to pass inland of the tent, at the back of the shingle ridge alx)ve it. The instant
he disappeared l)chii'd the ridge, I made direct for it, to intercept him, desiring
my party to 'uc ready with their rines to cut off his retreat should l-.c happen
to esca|)c the fire from my old double-barrel, which hod, a quarter of a century

213

before, been fatal to bruin's race in the Island of Spitzbergen. On my rising
the ridge, bruin turned his head inland, when, after firing both barrels, the ball
from the second one brought him on his haimches, at the distance of sixty yards
from me. It was only for an instant, however, for he gathered himself up
again, md retreated towards the beach, evidently mortally wounded ; and after
running the gauntlet of a whole voUey of balls from the rifles and muskets of the
boat's crew, who, being too eager and excited, I suppose, fired so hurriedly that
not a ball took effect ; and imder their fire he took to the water, swimming out
into the bav for the distance of two or three hundred yards, when he wore
round with nis head in shore, unable any longer to make head against the wind,
which was blowing dead on shore. His last efforts to struggle against it must
have been desperate, for he had no sooner bore up than his huge form floated
on the water a lifeless mass, just as I was about launching the boat to go in

Eursuit of him. After a short interval the wind drifted him on shore about two
undred yards from our encampment, to which we bore him on the sledge ; and,
cold as it was, set about skinnmg him immediately ; when, strange enough, we
found on examination that my second ball was the only one that had struck
him, entering about a foot above the insertion of the tail, and an inch on the
left side of tlic spine, literally drilling him through, and making its exit by the .
mouth, sphntering two of the canine teeth as it passed out. As a proof of the
extreme tenacity of life in these hardy creatures, this animal had one of the
largest internal arteries divided by the ball in its course, which poured out so
much blood that it was streaming from his mouth and nostrils in such a torrent
as to dye the surf around him of a deep crimson colour as we hauled him up
on the beach, and on opening, the body a deluge of the crimson fluid flowed
out. Yet with this deadly wound he managed to run at his usual speed about
two hundred yards to the beach, and then swim against a head sea for at the
least as great a distance further, making fearful struggles until the moment
of his last gasp for breath.

He measured seven and a half feet in length, was finely moulded, and in
excellent condition. We had a rump steak off him, as an addition to our pem-
mican dinner, and found it infinitely better eating than some of the beef I have
tasted which had been supplied the ship. At midnight the wind veered round
more to the north, with a dark horizon in that quarter. Thermometer 26°. Fahr.
Sunday, 5th. — No change in the weather, boisterous as ever, and thermometer
at 26°. — Had bear steaks for breakfast. Read part of the Morning Service to my
party in the tent. Saw several seals swimming about the bay, and another bear
on the floe at its upper end, but not within our reach : I could just make him
out with the aid of my telescope. An ivory gull (Larus eburneus), showing
great confidence, hovered about the remains of bruin during the greater part
of the day, apparently enjoying a most sumptuous feast. Several glaucus
gulls shyly hovered over in passmg by, but did not venture to alight : saw also
H solitary snow bunting.

Night threatening, with a black and lurid :,ky, still bio iig hard, with much
surf in the bay. Wind shifted round to its old" quarter in the N.W. again, with
the thermometer down to 24°, and bitterly cold.

Monday, 6th. —Rose at 6 a.m. Wind more off the land and somewhat moderated,
with less sea on outside ; the young ice at the upper inlet of the bay which had
been broken up by the swell setting on it during the gale, was drifting out past
us in considerable quantity, forming a belt along shore.

Commenced preparations for shifting our encampment into the next bay, as
soon as the swell along shore sut)sided sufficiently to enable us to get the
l)oat afloat, and round the lieadland, tiie vicinity of wliich, and suumiit of Cape
Bowden, I was anxiously desirous of more thcfoughly examining than my time
permitted of when outward bound. Erected a cairn upon the ridge where we
had encamped, and deposited beneath it a cylinder containing a record of our
proceedings.

At 10.30 A.M., on the wind and sea going down, wc launched tiie boat, and
had to row through sludge and brash, intermixed with hard floe pieces of the
bay or young ice, which so impeded the progress oi' the boat that the crew had
a most "laborious hour's pull in getting through little more than a mile of it.

We landed at our old place of encampment en-pussant to look for the musk-ox
skull which we had accidentally left there. But the change which the place had

Ec2

214

undergone during our absence had l)een so great that we could barely recognize
it. 1 he heavy seas setting upon this shore during the late almost continuous
succession of north-westerly gales had washed away the old l)each, and thrown
ridge upon ridge of shingle higher up the emlmnkmcnt, bringing the spot where
t)ur tent stood some yards nearer to the water's edge. We could nowhcie find
the horns ; they must either have been washed away or buried beneath the con-
fused heaps of shingle and huge hummocks of stranded ice.

At 1 P.M., after rounding Cape M'Bain, we hauled the boat up on a hard
shingly beach, on the north side of Clark Bay, about half way up, and pitched
the tent on a fine dry part of the ridge, on the margin of a frozen lake. Saw
several gulls sitting on the beach ; and just as I landed a solitary raven ( Corvus
conw), hovering overhead to reconnoitre our proceedings, fell a victim to his
curiosity. I fired at him, and he fell dead upon the surface of the frozen lake.
This bay appears to be a favourite retreat of the ravtns ; we saw several on our
last visit here, but none elsewhere. At 3 p.m. we hut) our usual warm mess for
dinner, and opened the last gutta-percha case of biscuit. Three of our party
having eaten rather too freely of the bear's liver for supper last night, complained
today of violent headache, which readily yielded to a smart cathartic dose of
medicine.

At 5 P.M. I left the encampment, accompanied by one of my party, on a
searching excursion over the ridges round the bay, to the summit of Cape
Bowden, a distance of about six miles from the tent. Our courst lay over a
succession of ridges, and through ravines filled with deep snow, in many places
alwve the knees at every step wc set, and in the snow drifts crossing some of
the deep hollows even up to the waist. We had to climb one very steep hill,
separated from Cape Bowden by a deep saddle-like depression, nearly filled by
a frozen lake. \Ve rapidly descendecl to this, but had another toilsome ascent
up the steep acclivities of the Cape ; and on reaching the summit had to
walk a mile further over deep snow l)cfore I found the " Rescue's " cairn,
which stands on the southern extremity of the ridge. We reached tiie spot
at 7 P.M. I drew from beneath the pile of stones a broken common green quart
bottle, containing a gutta-jiercha case, enclosing the usual printed notice on
yellow paper left by the searching parties from the " Lady Franklin " and
" Sophia." I tore a leaf from my memorandum iKiok, and wrote on it
a record of my visit, which I put in, and replaced the bottle in the cairn.
Having taken a rough sketch of the coast, r^xtending from Point Bowden to
C'ajK' Spencer, the whole outline of whicli appeared displayed Ix-neath as on a
map from this elevation. I commenced my return, and on reaching the extreme
craggy north point of the ridge, I took another sketch of our encampment on
the other side of Clark Bav, with Cape (irinnell and the headlands seen jutting
out beyond it to the north. The spot on which I stood was a rugged crag,
overhanging Wellington Channel; the cha.sm or deep gorge which cleft the crag
in two, forming a stetp and precipitous descent to the beach lielow, was in part
treacherously arched over with a frail crust of snow, rendering it a dangerous
place to approach in a thick snow-drift, as one false step would hurl the
wanderer headlong into the frowning gulf IkIow. The brown weather-woni
surface of the limestone strata was so arranged in horizontal layers on either
side as to resemble reams of brown paper piled one alM)ve another more than
anything else ; as these vertical sections, on which the snow couUl find no resting-
place, peered from beneath its otherwise universal covering of the land In the
valley lx;neatli lay the still frozen surface of the lake. Lookiiig up channel the
northern horizon presented a very remarkable tint of the deepest indigo blue —
a peculiar tint, 1 do not recollect ever having seen before, and lK)un(ling it like a
narrow band or streak, the sky elsewhere oeing overcast all round, with the
excepticm of a wild glare of light which gleamed through the black canopy
shrouding Cornwallis Land on the opposite shore. I heard the lively note of
the snow-bunting, the only indication of life around us in this still and desolate
solitude. We neillicr saw l)ird or Iwast else througiiout tiie wiiole of our
excursion. Occasionally a truck of the fox or liare met tlie eye, and we saw the
f<M)tprints of the ptarmigan {7'elrao lafropu,s) on the acclivity of Cape Bowden.

After <k'scending i'roni the crag into the valley to the lake beneath, we toi'ed
up the steep face of the ridge on tiie other side not a little jaded and fatigued
with tiic rough and ruggt-d imiwuiii juui iioy, and the agreeable j.rosjKct before
us of a return over the same course, now with monotony instead of novelty

215

for companionship. It was now 8 p.m., and we reached the tent at 10 p.m
Thermometer down to 21°. Night foggy, with h'ght airs.

Tuesday, 7th. The wind this morning suddenly shifted round to the S. W.,
accompanied by a fall of snow, which, with a strong breeze blowing, confined
us to the tent until about 5 p.m.; rthen the weather cleared up, but the wind
Ixjing against our going dow'» channel, together with some heavy streams of bay
ice in the offing, brought over from the opposite shore by the shift of wind,
delayed our departure to-day.

At the time of setting the first watch for the night, the moon appeared in a
bright crescent form, shining forth through an opening in some light fieecy
clouds, which were passing across the clear blue ethereal sky; the evening star was
peeping over the ridge at the back of the tent, twinkling with unusual bright-
ness, just above a famt red streak of light which skirted the horizon ; and here
and there a star of the first magnitude was just becoming visible in the zenith
and the western portion of the heavens. The thermometer had fallen to 24°.

Wednesday, 8th. — This is the first fine day, that we have really had since we
left the ship; the sun, which for the last three weeks has been an entire stranger
to us, now shone forth from a clear blue sky. When I registered the thermo-
meter, however, at six o'clock this morning, it was as low as twenty degrees
below the freezing point, having fallen no less than twelve degrees during the
night — from 24° to 12°. The maximum during our voyage of three weeks was
only 31°, minimum 12°, and the mean 21°, never having at any time risen above
the freezing point. The mean of eight days, taken with the aneroid before it
was damagea was 29° 54'. It was bitter'v cold within the tent, my south-
wester, mitts, and Esquimaux boots were hard frozen under my head, where
they had formed a substitute for a pillow.

After breakfast we built our last cairn on the spot of our last bivouac, and
buried beneath it a tin cylinder containing the following record of our pro-
ceedings : —

Memo. — A boat expedition up Wellington Channel in search of Sir John
Franklin. Left Her Majesty's ship " North Star " at Erebus and Terror Bay,
Beechey Island, on Thursday morning the 19th of August, and after a close
examination of Baring Bay by sledging round its shores on the snow, without
finding any opening to the eastward, on returning down channel searched
every bay, inlet, and headland along the coast without discovering any traces of
the lost ships. Encamped here on Monday, September 6th, and the boat is now
launching to return to the ship. The weather throughout the whole of this
time has been most tempestuous — continued gales of wind, accompanied by thick
weather and a short, broken sea with a heavy swell, very dangerous for boats.
The thermometer, which has never been above the freezing point, fell last night
twelve degrees, from 24° to 12° Fo'v The young ice formed in the bay, and
the whole of the land is enveloped m a white mantle of snow. But lew animals
have been seen, vegetation being very scanty. Traces of the musk ox, how-
ever, and its horns vrre found, and three hares seen in this bay. On Saturday
last I shot a large bear on the south side of Griffin Bay.

R. M'CouMicK, Officer Commanding Party.
Wednesday Morning, Sept. 8th, 1851.

Having struck the tent and stowed the boat, we launched her at 10.30 a.m.
and made sail with a fresh and far breeze round Cape Bowden, outside of
which there was still a short broken sea in the channel ; but we carried on
through it without taking in a reef Reached Cape Spencer at 4 p.m., after a
fine passage of five hours and a half, under sail the whole way. Here we hauled
the boat into a small creek between the shingle ridges, and lighting a fire on the
bank of shingle, commenced cooking our dinner, when a boat under sail, and
standing towards us, hove in sight, coming round the point of the shingle spit
which divides Erebus and Tenor Bay from Union Bay, and on which the graves
are situated. On reaching us we found that it was the second gig, in charge
of the second master, with provisions to be left en cach6 at Cape Osborn ; but
she was fur too Intc to have the slightest chanoe of accomplishmg this object.
In my own mind I doubted much her reaching even our last place of encamp-
ment, which we left this morning.

Tiie news we obtained I'rom her of the arrival of Lady Franklin's ^■csscl,

iUn " It!ilw>l " fivini Ivntrlnnd diirintr nnr nb^CnCC. havin"'

morniu'' on her homeward \ ovagc, was quite unexpected

Ec3

sailed a.^ain this

>ia

f't

I winged a young silvery gull here {Larus urgentatus) which 1 t(M)k on hoard
with nic alive.

As soon as we had finished our dinner we shoved otf, and instead of going
round 1?«;echey Island made sail across Union Bay (the winter's floe having
cleared out during our ahsence). The moon shone brightly forth just alwvetlic
cairn on the summit of Cape Spencer. Pvounding tne {wint of tiie spit, on
opening the " North Star," she hoisted her colours, and we run up ours ; the
bugle sounded on lx)ord, which 1 answered by firing off my gun.

At 8.30 P.M. ran alongside, when I had the pleasing gratification of finding
letters for myself from home, sent me by my friend Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty,
together with piles of newspapers brought out for the squadron.

The following is a list ot the names of the crew, selecti'd from ten volunteers
who offered to accompany me in H.M. boat " Forlorn H ^ic ".
Thomas Rands, jvt., 30, Ice-quartermastt'
Edward Millikin, „ Qf), Able seaman. . . ; j

„ 27, Able seaman. #

39, Royal Marines. '.•..:'

25, Able seaman. ^ ,, ■ • •• , •

23, Do. do.
Of the cool, steady, praiseworthy conduct of all, the unanimous good
feeliiig shown towards each other, and respectful attention *o myself on all
occasions, I cann*. t speak too highly. They deserve my warmest approbation ;
and I trust that their meritorious sen'ires will not paas unnoticed. Thomas
Rands I found a most able and c<!icient petty officer. He also gave universal
satisfaction in serving out our daily rations, which I committed to his charge.

R. M'CoHMicK, R.N. ,.

i '

..Vf-J

James Nugent,
Kleazer J. Clark, „
George Bums, „
Johnrrost,

List of Game killed by R. M'Comuck, RN. , . . , ,
Names. No.

Polar Bear - - - - Ursus maritimu^ l

Arctic Fox - - - - Cania lagojiua 2

Arctic Hare - - - - Lepua horutlia .... . g

Lemming ----- Georynchvta lemmua - - . . . i
Raven - - •* •'!••- - Oorvua corax - - - . .4

Ptarmigan . - - - Tetrao lagopua 2

Greenland Finch - - - Friru/iUa 2

Sandpii^er . - - - Tringa marUvma 4

Little Auk - - - - Alca alle 4

Dovekie Uria grylle 10

Loom - - - - - Ui'ia brunnichii - - - . . 2

Red-throated Diver . - - Colymbtia sepentriotuilU (young) - - 1
Tern ----- Sterna arcHca - - . . . ]

Fvdmar Petrel - - - - Procdlarut glaciidia - - - - - 2
Ivory Gull ----- Lama ebtimeua - - - - .2

Silvery Gull - - - - Lama argerUatua 2

Glaucous Gull . - - - Lama glaueua - - ■ - . - j
Eider Duck - - - - Anaa molliaainui - - - . - 9
Pintail Duck . - - - Ana* caudaciUa - • - - - g
Ring Duck - - - - Anas specUihiUa l

r/p:r >i'-r:--:^::--r^ Total - • - "fio"

DniKNSioirs of the Polar Bear (Male), shot September 4th, 1852,
., ,. , in Grilfia Bay, vv ellington Chaimel.

. , " Fet'L Inchn,

; ■ . ;;'■ Length 7 6

■■'■"■ Greatest circi riifiTf nee of body - - - 5 6

Do. do. head - - - 2 8

-v ,. . Do. do. neck - - 3 3

vj '- Length of hea<l 16

•* j; • Do. of fore-leg ffrom shoulder-joint) - 3 2

.. /,.'.-,;.■ Circumference of do. .---22

-[ ■ Length of hind-leg ffrom hip-joint) - - 3 0

" , Circumference of do. - - - - - 2 0

Length of fore paw . . - - 1 0

Circumference of do. - - - - 1 9

Length of hind paw - - - - - 1 9

Circumference of do. - - - - 1 5

Estimated weight - - - 1,000 lbs.

217

Ec4

818

nttitmihM.jri

■>»''*-i»

CMwall Tower, from Beechny Island.

Concluding Reuabks on the search for Sir John Franklin, the probable position
of the " Erebus" and " Terror," and fate of their crews.

My experience during the late voyaoe and winter passed on the very same
spot where Franklin spent his, and where all traces of him cease, have most
decidedly confirmed me in the opinion I had ventured to express in my plans of
search some five years ago, — viz.; that the missing expedition passed up tlxe
Wellington Channel into the Polar Sea, and was to be sought amonsst the
archipelago of islands and drifting packs of ice with which that sea is most
unquestionably encumbered, and where the search should be made with
efficient well-equipped boats adapted for encountering the pocks of ice, strong
currents, and dangerous intricacies, inseparable Irom such a navigation,
promising nought else but destruction to snips. From boats alone could any
hope be entertained of a rescue of our gallant cuuntrynicn, ere they fell
victima to the combined effects of frost and famine, — ^for in these two expressive
words, all their privations may probably be summed up, — and if too late to save
them, of discovering any traces they may have left behind them.

At that early period of the search I believe I stood alone in this opinion. The
general impression was, that the ships had been arrested in the ice to the south-
ward and westward of Melville Island; consequently, the main efforts for carry-
ing on the search took that direction. There are few perhaps who will now dis-
pute my views, or their originality, which the Parliamentary records have secured.

My reasons for coming to the conclusion I then did need not be recapitulated
here, they having been fully explained in my plans submitted at the time,
and subsequently, in the year 1850-2, accompanied by the first proposal
made, for attempting the search in so high a latitude in an open boat, which
I volunteered to conduct. This plan obtained the warm support of the Hy-
drographer, Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, and of Uear Admiral sir
Edward Parry, (vrith whom I made my first voyage towards the North Pole,)
who recommended my employment in very favourable terms in their reports of
approval annexed to my plans laid before Parliament.

I was at last sent out m the " North Star;" but the position I was necessarily
placed in in that ship was not such as to enable me to act in the noble cause in
the way I had hoped, and, being somewhat anomalous, renders it incumbent
on me to be careful that my share in the search is not Itft open to miscon-
ception. Here I may, therefore, l)e permitted to draw attention to the fact
that, could I at once have proceeded up the Wellington Channel on the
first arrival of the " North Star," at Beechey Island, on the 8th of August
1852, with my boat's crew of volunteers, instead of licing detained until
the 19th of the same month, — by which delay we lost the last eleven fine days
of the season, and best portion of it, in which boating operations can he
carried on in those scus, Wellington Channel being as open as the Atlantic,

219

a8 far m the eye could reach from the summit of Beechey Island, which,
with Cape Riley, I ascended on the day of my arrival; the season lu un-
usually open one ; with little or no ice, and the wind blowing from the southward
and eastward fresh and fair, — there was nothing to have prevented us from
doubling Cape Sir John Franklin, and proceeding round by Jones Sound into
Baffin Bay, before the north-westerly gales set in, which at a later period we
met with, those winds would have proved fair for our return down Jones' Sound,
sheltered under the lie of the land, round by Lancaster Sound and Barrow
Strait to Beechey Island, thus completing the circumnavigation of North
Devon, and an entire examination of its shores. Subsequent events have proved
that all this might have Iwen accomplished in the season.

W • ve were enabled to get away from the ship winter had already, the day
before, set in. After an absence oi' three weeks exposure to a succession of
north-westerlj' gales, and altogether the most Iwisterous weather that I ever
before experienced, as described in the preceding narrative, I, however, had
the satisfaction of setting the Baring Bav question at rest; viz., that there is
no communication whatever between that bay and Jones' Sound.

After my return I wrote a letter to the commander of the expedition early in the
spring, offering to explore Smith Sound into the Polar Ocean as far us the season
would permit of, if I was given the command of the " Mary" yacht, u decked
boat of twelve tons, cutter-rijjged, and well adapted for such a service ; as, in
addition to the greater quantity of provisions and stores which she would stow
for a prolonged search, she would also possess the advantage of greater safety
in a sea that might endanger an open boat, more especially if deeply laden, as
the " Forlorn Hope" was. My former boat's crew having volunteered to accom-

fany me again, and cheerfully expressed their willingness to follow me wherever
led them, it was my intention to have brought the " Mary" across the
Atlantic home, afk'r completing provisions and fuel at some one of the dep6t8
at Pond's Bay, or the southern shores of Tiancaster Sound, instead of risking her
getting beset for the winter in the iicnvy pucks with which Barrow Strait was
filled tiiis season.

My object in the \oyage up Smith's Sound was to have made as near an
approach to the Pole as the state of the ice would have permitted. I believe
that if ever the North Pole is rcuchetl, it will Ik; on the meridian of Smith
Sound.

I may here offer a few suggestions on the probable fate of the missing ships and
their crews ; having myself entertained sanguine hopes of discovering some
truces of them in the higher latitudes which it was my intention, if possible, to
have reached, had the command of tiic " Mary" been given me. This, however,
was declined by the Commodore, and in the answer which I received from him
to my offer, dated on board the " Assistance," 26' h JiUy 1 853, the reasou assigned
was that, " Nothing now remains undone in that vicinity." Every hope of
making myself further useful in the cause being now at an end, I had no other
alternative left me than to return home in the " Phoenix," having dime all that
it was in my power to do.

There are several ways by which a ship may be destroyed — by fire, by
foundering, by collision with ice, or by licing driven on shore. Either of the
first two casualties might easily entmgii happen to a single ship ; but as it is in
the highest def-rec improbable that two ships should together share the same
fate, these two modes of accounting for the loss of the Polar ships may at once
be disposed of. The third, by collision with ice, carries with it a greater
amount of probability. Even this, however, in the case of the " Erebus" and
" Terror" seems to iiie a very unlikely catastrophe to have happened to two
ships so strongly built and so well additionally fortified by the stoutest doubling
as those ships were, rendering them capable of resisting an amount of pressure
from ice truly astonishing, as I ciui, from my own personal observation, vouch
for. Having seen them beset in the immense packs of ice in the Antarctic seas,
consisting of floes mostly of great thickness and density, the latter quality being
greatly increased from the tcmperatiiie never rising above the freezing point
within the Antarctic circle even at midsummer, consequently exerting no
thawing influence on those \ ast fields of ice, which, when put in motion during
the agitation of the great southern ocean by heavy gales, I have often seen the
fi.on<»fl, «♦' ♦!><»'♦ Fr»»hiie" innat- sov#»ri>lv tpstojl hptwppn hinri' fiensp masses of
violently grinding past her sides, tearing and rolling up her stout

blue ice

UN)

oopper Hheathin^ like m naioh tadirN* curl-paper, whiiNt every (N-ain iiml tiiiilter
in her have been creulcinff and groaning, and the rudder alnioMt wniii)( trout itM
faateningi). ire with which tiu Hihh mid packH \vitliin tlic biiyH and straitH of
the Arctir circle vnn no more Ik- coinpantl than tlie ice on the mirface ol' the
Seriu-utine ran witli the H<K'Hor Melville il;i\. The only iee I have ever » en
in tne north at nil to l)o compared with the Houtliern |>nekn oecntnt in the Spitz-
berm'n hc&h.

I have entered more tally upon the ettectt* of ice than I xhouhl otheiwise
have done, in eons«'(jueiiee of Inning freiiuently heard tiic Io-^n ol the " Hreudal-
bane" hired tranM|K)rt, cited as an example of the Iosh of Sir .lolm l''ianklin'n
xhipM, mimy ]'er<4oiis jumping at oiu;e to tlic ('ouelii-«ion that the latter muxt liuve
been crushed .aid ingulted in the same sunanury way un the lailucky transport
was. The two cases, however, are widely ditl'erent. The '* Hnadiilbaiie" wan
known to l)c an old vessel, which the owners had not sutficiently doubled or
strengthened to enable her t« resist vww a moderate liegree ot ])ressure lrt)Ui
two rontending tiocs; the couse(|uence wuh, they went through her bottma, and
she disapjH'ared i)eneatli them within a qu irtcr of an hour from the time she
was first caught in the " nip," us I was a witness to myself from the deck of the
" Phu'nix," which ship was in the same " nip."

The Americati whaler " M'Lellen" lost in Melville Hay in the season of
iH.'j'i, is another instance brought forward in support of this opinion; but she,
also, was an old worn-out ship, and her tindxTs very defective where the
floe-edge caught her »ide and stf)ve her in. This 1 saw myself as I went
on board of her at the time, she having laconic a wreck immediately inaler the
bows of the "North Star," carry itig away that vessel's C4it head. Hut to draw
any comparison In-twi'eu those two vessels and the *' Krebus" and " Terror"
would bt! like compuriuj; the cracking a hollow tillnrt with the hardest ivory
nut.

Much has been said about the ships having liecn forced out of Krebus and
Terror Bay, and of their having Kit indication-^ iK-hind tliem of a hurried
departure. On what grounds these surmises liiive tiecn found<'d it wouM be
somewhat ditlicult to divine. I passed a whole year in that bay, and whatever
may l>e said to the contrary, I believe it *o be utterly imi^ssible that any vessel
could be driven out of it aftci- having once been frozen in : a more satiL' bay for
wintering in does not exist along the wlii>le line ol' coast. Its very fault lies in
its security, the difficulty in getting out again when once within it, us the bity-
tl(H' rarely breaks up lielbiv the end ot August or lieginning of Septemlier.
The " North Star" getting on shore there hud nothing whatever to do with the
liav, an«l was an event in no way calculated to compromise its ciiaructer tor
safety. The spot where the " Krebus" and " Terror" laid was evidently near
its western extremity, in the curve ol the bay formed by the shingle ridge, ex-
tending out from Beechey Island on which "the graves" are sit.iated ; the close
vicinity of the magnetic observatory, the armourer's forge, the wushing-pluce at
the water-course, and the small garden not much farther off, with thei-aim
above it — all combined to point out this as the winter (|uarters of the ships,
and a more secure one could not well have Inen fixed upon. in fact it
was the onlv position in this buy in which a ship would Ix- altogether secuix-
from being driven on shore by any sudden ingress of ice in the autumn lietbre
the winter's floe was firmly formed; and, as such, could not fail to have lieen
selected by one of Sir .lohn Franklin's judgment and exjH'rience. I saw nothing
whatever in support of the notion that the departure ot the ships was a hurried
one, but much to convince ine that Franklin and those with him hud not idly
passed their winter here, to which the sites of tents in various din'ctions, sledge-
tracks, and everything else bore ample testimony.

Further, I am of opinion that sledging-parties from his ships had been up the
Wellington Channel, and reasoning upon what I know may Ih' accomplished
even in midwinter, where energy exists, as in such men its Franklin and my
lamenti'd friend, that soul ol enterprise, the noble-minded Bell6t, these sledge
jouniies were very probalily extended licyond (Jape Liuly Franklin — men to the
portal of the Polar Ocean. Their tracks round (Jape Spencer in the direction
of Cape Bowden, clearly point out the course they had in view ; here no iiiduce-
inent could be held out to tiie sportsinn to tarry, there is not even suliicieut
game for a siugle gun, far less to render it an eligible spot for pitching a tent as
a mere shooting station.

The swampy flat, iutcrsected by suiall lake^ aud water courses, in the viciuity

tA' Cwwall Tower, i* the only Hpot when- thi- vrry it'w Htragg1inf{ wild fowl that
iilight i 1 thi^ l)arren limestone ivj<;i>'n, on their way north, are to hi- met with;
and hen' I ha\e t'ollow<(l I'rnnklin'N Hierfjje trarks over the low shingle ridges in
the direction ot the lower, which was (Unditless their shooting station 'I'he
(tledgcs iiinst have passed in tiie simimer season when the soil was pluHtic enough
to leave impressions ot their tracks behind them. ( 'aswall tower is an isolated
precipitous m.Mint, l)etvcen three aiui foui hun<hed leet in height, rising from
a plam at the lieati of Radstoci- Mav and (uiscoigne Cove, wliich I aseended
hut foiuid nothing whatever on its imre tint top, ^ave a solitary lemming, which
I captured. At its l)asc ar-- several circular ancient I''s(iiiinuuix encampments,
withm which the wild flowers flourish more luxuriantly tnan in any other simt
i met with. The distance is ahout ten miles from the ship.

The greatest mystery oi all is, that of no r<c()rd hiving heen hit of their
sojourn or departure; so sanguine wik I tor a i;me, thai something might turn
up to reward a diligent and persevering search, that 1 <lid not rest untd I had
closely examined "verv foot of ground for miles around; ascending and descend-
ing every hill and ravine around the hay, imd rand)ling over the mountain lime-
stone table land, far inland, till there was not n rock or ravine cm the land, or
hummock of ice on the floe, within a circuit of many miles, that was not as
familiar to me as " household words."

i'"rom my own exjwriciice, throughout a somewhat uiore severe winter, per-
haps, than ordinary, 1 l)elie\e that sledge travelling may l)e continued during an
Arctic winter, without much risk or (hinger being incurred from the lowest
temperature ; ])rovided care is taken to erect a snow hut, or in cases of eniiT-
gency when no time is to be lost, to cut a deep trench in the snow in time to
seeure shelter from an approaching gale and snowdrift. It must he kept in
mind, that the same degree of cold which can be borne without inconvenience
in a calm cannot Ik- facecl without severe frost bites in u strong breeze of wind.
In thus recording my opinion of the practicability of sledge travelling in the
winter season, I have the testimony of those cntcrprizing Arctic travellers
Kennedy and BellAt, in my favour, who during the " Prince Albert's" voyage
practised it most successfully in mid-winter. I also have had opportunities of
f'airh' testing the ertects of a very low temnenitmc on my own person on more
than one occasitm. .Vly cusfomury walk throughout the winter, whatever the
state oftlie we.'^' -r might be, was round Hecrhey Island, a distance of about
six miles. Tins I accomplished once when the thcruMnneter was .'it" below
zero on the Hoe. and to that low temperature I was exposed for two hours,
without feeling any inconvenience from it, but there was little or no wind at
the time.

On another occasion I passed a whole day and night without food, or shelter,
l)eyond what the sno^\ -drift alVor(U'<l, ahout seven niilc-i from the ship, having
been overtaken by a dense fog on the open plain when returning from an excur-
sion to Casw dl Tower, accompanied by my friend Dr. Toms, of the "North
Star," and " luvbns" and " Terror," my two Kscpiimaux dogs. When over-
whelmed by the darkness of night blending with the fog, and a gale approach-
ing, we cut with a hunting knife a trench in the snow-clad plain, ahout two feet
deep, and in this truly Arctic bivouac (at nil times to be foinid) we, with our
canine friends, passed the night, without a tent or other clothing than our usual
walking dress.

The gale which swept over us soon tbrming a white coverlet of snow-drift,
protected us from the blast, less than an hour's exposure to the inclemency :ind
intensity of cold of which would inevitably have ended in our destruction : not
even the dogs would luive sur\ ived it. 'I'he iherniemeter that night fell to ;^2°
below zero, or fir' below the freezing point. The fog clearing ofT' sutiiciently
to make (uit the land, about lour o'clock in the morning we started again, i-nd
reached the >hip between six and sivm a.m., without has ingiiicun-ed even n frost-
bite, and after an al»hition and breakfast, felt as fresh as ever.

I am, therefore, led to the conclusion, that .Sir John Franklin's travelling
parties mav have con)inenced their jonrneys up the ^^•eUington Channel, with
the first appearanoe of the sun above the horizon early in the month of February,
and afti'r the discovery that tiie strait between the Franklin Capes m the Qireen's
Channel opene<l intoa polar ocean, started with his ships as soon as the bay ice broke
UD, m.ost nrohabl v about the Mrst week in .Septciniier ; and if he had an open season
would, with the" aid of his screw-propellers, run up the Wellington Channel
within the space ol' eight-and-fbrty hours. Then, probably tempted by the broad
' ■ 2 F 2

ftpunw of <>|H'ii wiittT til the nortlnMinl, or ut any rHJr ab«'ii''.' of land to
olwtnirf his proffrrwi in thi»t dirrctioi), In- ininht n-acli a \xr, \\'m\i lutitiiilr,
mil ^(lin a himmI urtinji of t\\v I'hitv NlamlH, k-toir In- f<liaj>' d a Nouth-wcHtcrly
coiir>' lor lUhrin^Vt Strait, As tin- nranon tor iiavinatio.i rtMiiaining afhr the
firi't ot .^'"|ittiiilKr, \voul<l \h', liowc>»r, iinfssarily >' wry sliori our, !»• wax
prr)l)al)ly o\frtiik«'n Ity ^iiittr, |H'rliapH soiiw nIx or wxin hiiiiiircd \i\\\v» from
CniK' l.adv Franklin, in a liijuli latitiuic, ami iMWft'ldy wi-ll to tlir wTsfwarrl.

(laving tluis attnn|)(('(l to follow up the irac'. of tlir iniforttinatc ships no tar,
\i\ soint'thin^f likf iiiilu(fi\r n•asonin^, tou'idod on inti-n-nci-s drawn from a
know U>d^r of till- oliit'ct tlicy had in view, and t lie iiaist prohalili- tvcntN and
incitlcnts liktK to Ixsct tlutn in their path to mar its attaimnnit, we now
(M tor upon a fiild of s|M'culation, wide nioiigh indird to till a voluniv of it.si'lf.
I laving alrt-ndy i-xtcndt-d thesf n-nnirks to a ^r^•aU•r Irngtli than I had intended,
I will wind them up with a tew wohIm on the ronclusion I have eontc to in my
own miixl, as to the fate of our ^allanteountrymen. Speeulative aaaciy oninion
u|H»n this sidjject, I am aware, must neeesHarily lie, I have not arrived at
mine either |)reinaturely or hastily. Nt> one hut those who may have near
relatives in the e.\|H>dition, ean possibly have felt dee}M.'r interest in this hapless
seareh from first to last than I nave, imless it is my friend Mr. Marrow, whu.te
untiring exertions and de\oti(in in this nohle eause staixl unecpnilled. Various
assoeiations eond)ined to enlist my own sympathies in this seareh. They were
my old Nhi|ts, and en^aj^ed in a field of discovery to which I have lonj^ Iteen
ardently devoted, and in which my thouf^hts have In-en centred from my earliest
youth, in addition to which there were those o» Iniard of lH»th siiip.s who were
well known to me.

My own impression is, that on the dosing in of their second win'er, the ships
were cither dri\fn into some iidet, where tliey may have U'l-n lilocked up ever

ercv

1\h\

since In the Polar pack, as liiipp«ned to the " Investijtator m
that they have Inen driven on snore h\ the strong currents which set from the
north-westward, when lulplcs>l\ U-set in the pack, drifting alMuit in the
narrow straits wliirii si-pnratc one island from another in tl>is Arctic archi|K'la^o.

'riicy may, possibly, have reached c\en as tar west as that laiffe tract i I land
whose mountainous and lot^y ^ranitit- ]ieaks were seen by the " Herald," thus
barring tlieirlurthcr progress westward. Hut, imderany of these circumslanccH,
it d(H's ni't follow that tjic liv«s of those t»n board would U- necessarily involved
in immeiliafe dcsf ruction, iven where the ships stranded on some shore. They
woidd, in all probabilitv, be able to save the greater part of their jirovisious and
stores (as Sir Kdward I'arry did in the loss ot the " I'ury," on Fury lieacli ; and
which, years afterwards, proved the bajipv means of preserving the lives of Sir
.lohn Hoss and his party ). They might budd huts and supply themselves with fuel
from the wreck, and linger out an existence as long as then' resources lasted, liut
here however, reluctantly, I must at the same time acknow ledge, that there would
be but little prosjK'ct of adding nuich to tlu'se in the region in which their disaster
would be likely to hap|Hii In proof of this. I have only to add, that had t
lost my boat and the pro\ i-ions when up the Wellington Channel, my iMiat'ti
crew and myself could not have exisltd— iilt hough numlH'ring only seven — on
the produce of our guns, for one month ; and I had two or three good shots in
my party, U'sides In-ing mys«"lf an old sjK)rtsman, and rartly threw away a
shot without ilitaining something fori'. Wild fowl, (h)ubtless, migrate to the
very Pole itself to rear their younir ; ln,t this (Kcupies onl;- a short jx-riod of the
season ; an(l the supplies to W obtained from such an uncertain source would
l)f ina(U(|u:ite e\eii for present wants, far less so to Ibrm a winter's store for a
ship's company.

Sad as the rcHection must k-, it is in vain to deny that the time has arrived
when, indeed, it is "hoping against hop*-." and which suggested to mc the
nninj' ot' "Fcilnrn II()|k' ' tor my boat. Nearly nine years have now elapsed
since oi. r cou'itrymen left then slums ; and, although I have l)een to the last one
of the most sanguine in my hofK's, I cannot help feeling now, that traces of their
fate is all, imhappilv, I have too much n-ason to fear, that remains to Ik- dis-
covere«l of tlu-iii. tint even this in my opinion will never Ik- accomplished bv
ship-. Nought else than the disastrous fate of the gallant Franklin and his
followers can be possibly aiuicipated as the result of anv attempt made bv ships.

■ R. M'('<.HMICK, k.N.

•223

A few SidORwTioNR on the I'rk>«rh\ai'ion oI' HKAirii in l»«liir (Jliincii.

Havin(i hiul undtT cnnMidcruiion the In-st ni«-anN of iTcipinff Hcurvy, and pre-
H^•rvin^ lirnltli in tin- Arctic pckidus, I dccin it niy duty to sumnit lie lollowintf
brief remarks for the ii«e nt future \«iyiiKirx. in h<» doing, I Nhiillci.ntine inyHcR'
wholly to the rcKullsof niy own exjKTience during ii |H'ri<«l of some years piiMsed
in the higlier latitudes, feeling confident that attention to the [irecepts here incul-
catetl will Mecure for tluxe who may tbllow me an Miucessful an exenintion from
icurvy an<l wiekneKM as have crowned my own etVorts, hy a rigid udlierenee to
them.

In the first place, I would unhesitatingly r conunend the fiifiir rnli/ninii of
nil kinds of salted meats from the iliet ; eonvineed as I am, fnmi long experience
Hud close attention to ihe eflects of such food, that it proves, through its indi-
gestibility and deficient nutrient pri>|Hrties, injurious to the system, and dete-
riorutinj; the condition of the circulating fluids and secretions generally — inducing
a dehilitated hahit of iHxiy, favouruhle to the production of scurvy, uinler
cireuinstunees of j>rivation and ex|)osure, and other exciting influences, calculated
to call it into action. In fact, if is my lielief that the origin of every case of
(tcurvy may Ik' fairly traced to the use of salted meats.

Ill the present age of inventions and improvements there can be no lack of
Huhstitutes, and excellent ones too, for the hard salt beef and pork, and the whole
category of drie«l tongue8, hams, \'c., which constituted the s«'a stock «)f bygone
years, when every shi|) in a long voyage, as in Anson's time, lost great nuinlRTfi
of the crew.

N:>w, wo have preserved meats, }M)iiltry, soujis, |KMiiiiiican, and fresh bacon of
all kinds. The latter article, which was sii|(j)lied lor the first time to the expe-
dition now out, es|MTiallv that preserved in tins ftir the use of travelling parties,
proved the most ^aluabie iw'dition of all to the scale of Arctic victualling; its
freshness and mildness re!aiering it easy ol digistioii, an<l its fatty ipiality ren-
dering it highly nutritious by artbrding a large supply of carbonaceous material
to make up for the constant waste occasioned by the increased exhalation of
carbon which accompanies the activity of the respiration in very low tempera-
tures of the atmosphere.

The various kinds of veget'ibles when cuiefully selected and preserved are
quite e(|ual to the fresh ones ; more especially the jireserved potato, carrot,
parsnip, turni]), and peas ; and I cannot speak too highl\ of those bottled fruits,
as the damson, greengage, currant and raspU'riy, gooseberry, and that perhaps
liest of all antiscorbutic fruit, the cranlKrry, which is (|u te ecjual to the lime
juice in its valuable properties: all these fruits are ijuite as good as when first
gathere«l.

'>'-'ed fruits — apples, figs, prunes, raisir- , and almonds, &-c. — arc all objec-
tionable.

The best diluents are tea, cotie*-, and ihocolatc, more esi)ccially the patent
cluK'olate which the travelling parties were supplied with in the last expedition.
Of spirits and wines, the less taken the better; good sound malt liquors are
preferable in all respects, coinbininii, as they do, a nutriti\e with a stimulating
property.

()n tlie subject of cloUiing I have only to observe that I found the Govern-
ment pilot-doth suit, w.'.i a " sou'-wester," the most generally useful in summer
or winter; but for boating or sledging, in severe weather, I know of nothing
equal to the Kscpiimaux -i al-skin dress and fur boots.* A common blanket bag
I have always found far more ctimfortabic than a felt one for sleeping in, when
uwuv travelling, with a bnrt'iili robe licnenth it.

(if medical treatment, little is retpiired. The bracing effects of alow, dry
tcin|)eraturc, and the absence of all moisture in the atmosphere for a large portion
of the year, so that not a i oiid can form in the clear blue sky, render catarrhal
and otiier aflections lesultmg from atniosi)lieric transitions of rare occurrence.

During the dark and monotonous season of winter, active exercise in the open
air, on the floe or on the land, is the very best preservative of healtii, aided by
proper attention to diet ; the mind being at the same time engaged in rational
occupations, reading, writing, sketching, or whatever may be the bent of indivi-
dual taste.

* Tlif.".' mipplird I" tli<; .•xpedilion by :Mi-. Ki'lianl .Ii Ot. of No. I. lliinwny Street, Oxford

Stre«!t, 1 licliovc, 2»vu iiuicli siitisfuclitm.

.1 1.' ••

When sutticient exercise is not taken, and the diet haH been too full and
liberal, a congestive state of the internal organs is often the result, attended
with a drow ess during the day and broken rest at night. The best remedy
I have found iii such cases is a six-grain dose of calomel, and, to allay the dis-
position to watchfulness, about u scruple of the compound ipecacuanha or Dover's
powilci, given at l)ed-time. Loss of upj)etite, from want of tone and energy in
the digestive organs, sometimes follows the effects of a long and tedious winter
in some constitutit)ns. A wineglassiul of (juinine wine, given twice a day, is the
most etiicacious remedy in the?" cases ; it is liest pit'pared by dissolving al)out
a scruple of quinine, with the same quantity of citric acid, in a >vincglassful of
water, and then adding it to a Iwttle of wine, either port or sherry, as may best
suit the occasion.

In conclusion, I have only to add, in confirmation of these views, that in three
\oyages which I have made to the I'olar regions — two to the north and one to
the south, the latter of four yean*' duration, — embracinjj every possible transition
of climate and exposure, I nave never lost a single life, or even had a case of
serious sickness or scurvy throughout a period of Polar servicre falling little short
of seven years.

R. M'CouMicK, R.N.

Dr. M'CoRMUK to Captain Sir E. Bkuhkr, C'.B., H.M.S. " Assistance."

Her Majesty's Ship " North Star," Krebus and Terror Bay,
sir,' ' " ■ Md March 18.5:?.

I HAVE the honour to transmit to you a narratixe of my boat expedition up
Wellington ('hamicl, and sledye journey round Baring Bay, in search of
Sir John Franklin.

Ihuing left the sliip on the morning of the I9tb of August, and rclurncd on
board again on the night of the 8th of September last, after .in absence of
three weeks, during the whole of which time the weather was most unfavourable
for boat service, having iK'cn tempestuous and overcast in the extreme, — a
succession of north-westerly gales, which, with strong currents, rendered the
navigation of this channel :i very dangerous one for boats, and not a place
of shelter iK-twccu the last bay and Baring Bay.

After a week passed in a most careful search of Baring Bay all round, and
ascending the inland ridges of hills, T neither found an opening to the eastward
or a surface practicable for sledging over inland ; the whole forming a suc-
cession of steep ridges, with intervening ravines filled with snow, and running
parallel with the top of the bay.

'ITiere was no indication whatever of ojkii water in the vicinity; the gulls
and other sea-fowl never sha])ed their course to the eastward.

Therefore in all probal)ility .lones Sound, instead of continuing its course to
the westward from Baffin Bay, soon trends round to the north-west. On my
return down chaimel I carefully examined every headland and bay, unhappily
witliout finding the shglitest trace of the missing ships.

I'ive of these Imys, and several of the most prominent headlands U'tween
I'oint Bowden and ('ajH- Osborn, not laid down iti the charts, I have availed
myself of the usual privilege of explorers, and given names to them.

My party returned on lK)ard in good health; and \ have great satisfaction in
Ixjaring testimony to their exceeding good <'onduct, mid they having volun-
teered to accompiiny nie again in the spring M-arcli, I have herewith to submit
for your consideration my purposed plan for carrying out that search.

In your letter of the l.'Uh of August last I was told that the " .\s>istaiice"
Mild " I'ioneer" would complete the search of tlie Wellington Channel, and that
my course nnist be to the eastward of this meridian. Sledging, thcrei()re, will
he entirely (Uit of the question, as Lancaster's Sound opens loo early to permit
of travelling over the ice to any distance and back again.

The boat, however, which 1 had last (and we ha\f none letter adapted on
t)oard) is wholly inadecpiate for so long a voyage as the one contemplated,
viz., the exploration of .lones and Smith Sounds, more especially as since your
■iepartiue Commander Inglefield, in the " Isabel," has been so tiir up both
these sounds as to render it very improbable that a lioat, stowing Iwrely a

month's provisions, could remain out sufficiently long to enable her to ucconiplisli
anything beyond what he has already done.

The plan, therefore, I ha\c to proposi' is, that the " Mary" yacht, left by
Admiral Sir John Ross, and now lying here useless, should be placed at my
disposal, with two additional hands, and ])rovisioncd for three months, with u
gutta percha boat (left here by the " Prince Albert") for hauling over the ice,
should the floes in the sounds not have broken up. 'I'o start immediately after
the return of the party, conveying your authority so to do, and Uy which time
the navigation in Barrow Strait will most probably be open.

I am, iScc,

R. M*C;oKMicK, R.N.

P.S. The departure of the sledge parties for the rendezvous depots, being a
month earlier than anticipated, a series of sketches, c;)mprising the headlands
and bays Iwtwcen Bcccliey Island and Point Hogarth, Raring Bay, (which I
liad taken for the purpose of illustrating a track-cliiut on which they are laid
down from compass bearings), not being finished, I nnist reserve for a future
opportunity.— R. M'C.

The Sechktauv ok thk Admuialtv to Dr. M'C^ormick, R.N.

Sir, Admiralty, i;Hh October \8!y:^.

I AM ccmimanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to acknow-
ledge the receipt of your narrative of an expedition under your orders in a
boat of H.M. Discovery Ship "North Star,' up the eastern shore of Wel-
lington Channel and round Baring l^ay, for the purpose of discovering traces of
Sir John Franklin's expedition.

My i^ords approve of yoiu- exertions on this occasion, and of the conduct of
vour boat's crew on a service incurring both risk and hardship, and are satisfied
with the ettbrts you made in determining the important (|uestion as to there
being any connexion Ixjtween Baring Bay and Jones Sound.

I am, \c.
(Signed) W. A. B. Hamilton.

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Full text of "Papers relative to the recent Arctic expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin and the crews of H.M.S. "Erebus" and "Terror" [microform]"

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