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Illuatrant la mOthod*. 


lANSI ond ISO rtST CMAUT No ?1 


ST. '653 East Uom streei 

S^S "ochei(#r. New York 1460 USA 

^ ni6) 288 - 5989 - Fo. 




«iPti. m. C. »hra 

Across Two Continent! 


Through the Emerald Ish 



DEARLY rrpr^nJ "'"'■ '°''^°' ^^° °'^'« OF 





i '^ 

9r(ii!r& mh pubUttftb toUif 
tift ktii6 prrmtMtan of tl^r 
MoBt Irv 8r. |laul Snulfrai. 
Arrl^bialrati of flmttrraL j* j» 


'Hii. i: ,,isili. I)„lu,,t.,ry ''''^;^' 

Ttu' lntri«liKtion. . . .'. '[ 

l>t|>artiirf Irnni \i-\v Yi>rk ' 

Thf A/..>ri'»i '" 

(Jiln-altar " 

Algivira.s iind St-villf *' 

TIh; .MttliUTTuneun '** 

Comiia and .Siinlinia. ... "* 

Bay of .\a,,|t.» " 

Naples " 

S<imn to, Capri '•' 

Amalfi. Salerno, La Cava.,. . . .... '^ 

Pomjifii ** 

Naples to I'ort Said. . ........'.'.......,.[', *' 

Lajx.ri l.slamls and Straits of Messina ''' 

l^t Said, E^'vpt ^* 

Cairo 3i 

Environs of Cairr) ^' 

The Pyramids ai<d Luxor. . . ^' 

Alexandria "**• 

Jaffa .....[.......'. *' 

Jerusalem *** 

Bethlehem ** 

Beyrouth ^^ 

Damascus 5* 

Smyrna 5' 

Constants ojile '* 

Athens 55 

Gulf of Corinth ..........'.'.......[,', '** 

Corfu and Brindisi ^' 

Rome ■ "^3 

Pope Pius X ............]... ^^ 

Florence '° 

Venice ^^ 

Padua 77 

Milan *' 

Genoa *5 



(Cmitriltll < 'uii/immi. 



Nkv utul M .iitt I .irli> , , 
Liiko lirtli". I^ikf l,t!t;aiui 






Th.' Khini- . 

C< ill >Kllt' 



Calais, Dost-r 


Mi.lyhta.l ti. Dublin.. . 

Dulilin , 

Killiinii-y, the l.,aki-!i... 
Cork, Hlumt V CastU- . 
Chark'villi, Riisst'lvilK- 

Linu-rick, . . , 

Galway, Salthill 


Letterfrai-k. . 
Lct-nane, . . . 
Wi-stport . . . . 


Giant's Causeway... 



Lough Xeigh 




Ireland in Review... 



New Vork to Montreal. 










I <0 

1 85 
1 o 






The r>TBiniil«, anil Uuidrn in CiMtumr. 





Dear Rbadir — 

I dedicate this descriptive work of my travels to 
thee with fear and many misKivings of heart, for I 
know the fate which has ♦Mjfallen many an adventurer. I 
know, too, that the float i.? the subject of the breeze and 
the toy of the wave; and i have not lived without know- 
jnjj thai the adventurous author is liable to awaken in 
the mind of his critic the most unkindly cennure. But 
conscious, as I am. of all that may Iwfall these gentle 
leaves. I continue my task with unabating perseverance 
throughout the day and long into the night, in the earnest 
hope of being able to lead my reader through the lands 
flowing into the Pyramids. Sheltering him from the 
dry. burning wind of the South neath the spreading 
magnolia. I shall then conduct him through the birthplace 
of art, to the rich plains and ravishing scenes, which, 
while teeming with cultivation, seem to offer up, as from 
their verdant shrines, their fruit to the Great Creator. 

Place then, gentle reader, the kiss of charity on this 
modest work, and permit yourself to be guided over the 

«unn> watrn n( ilu- Miilitirnuu tiu to |H>iMtH uf i(Uin-«t 
in !in.| lK.r<I«rini; »{«.ti tin* unat l«».|y uf wh it wliiih 
l>Hth<s tlu' inant of tlirir i.»tuim'm«.; ilirmr t" Irfliiml 
wlirrr mountain, wchxI an<l wat.-r blin.l with a.K-quate 
lovtliniHs Ot r trip in u nur. ..uflim' m'.i*»arih im|KT- 
fci t an rtifaril'4 il.tail hut as w.- pniKn^s intcn^t may 
intnaHc, ami imrtasinK'. tlu- linic work may provf ir- 
tercstinjf an<l inintrui tivi- 


Very sinccn-ly your», 

M. I. SHE A, 


St. Anthont's, 

MONTMKAi.. October, iqo;. 


I . 


Across Two Continents and 
Through the Emerald Iskij 


lOR ut many \vxr% thm- wr.s .Iccpiv 
impluntrd -n my min.l a d.Mr.- to trav.-l lo 
KurcfR. an.l on the Continent I «,sh.'d to 
Hi-c the olil worl.l. But all the while I knew 
that a ti.ur fhrouKh KurofR. wuh a .crums 
venture ami that a trip to ... distant ')nent a stupi^n.L.u. 
undcrtakinK. t.-Mrve.! mostly to th..,o who enjove.l the 
pleanure of an uncommonly well «lcvelo|H.H purse I 
knew, too, that there was an ocean to ctosm an.J I .Ireaded 
the «ea Again. I .-onsole.l myself with the th.mK'ht that 
«eamvkneH8 culd not be worne than that which I suffered 
manv yean, ago. When a Jx,y [ ,u.A abaft the SS 
hhaftuck," as she lav motionles, on a glassy wave in 
Halifax har»K,r. and r;ul!y contemplated the spire of St 
Mar>'8 Cath..drH'. F wa.s boun.i for Sy.lnev It wa« sunset 
before the hawsers were loosed and the ship left the tK,rt 
Ere w.. had ifone ..ery far on our course, the captain, a genial 
fellow, .said as he passed. "We shall have wmd before 
.f I mistake no.." " I am of your opinion," said a man who 
stood next to me. Sure enough, with the shades of night 





came a cbanRe. The sea became rouKh and the wind gave 
notice of ;,n HpprnachinR stonn. Ni^'ht had now placed the 
pall over the dead dav and the wind moaned. Soon came a 
blast which careened the ship, passed over, and in a min- 
ute she rii'hted as before; then another and another, fiercer 
and fiercer still. Meanwhile the passengers were in their 
berths, some like myself very sick and willing to give up 
the ghost: others v.aited the result of the terrible wind and 
sea, while down below stood the steward singing a most 
mournful dirge, entitled "O Blackie in the deep blue sea!" 
It was N'erily a lonesome hour frau-ht with danger, for wave 
after wave burst upon the ship which bowed ♦o her gun- 
wale, and rose again to encounter another wave more 
furious than the first. It continued thus for three days, 
during which I was powerless to ask " The Star of the Sea "' 
to save us from destruction. 

" It is nearly over, my boy." said the steward. " It 
is clearing up a little to windward." " Oh, thanks to the 
great Master of the sea" we are saved ! 

After four days we reached Cape being sick 
almost unto death I was taken ashore and put to bed. The 
next day-, however. I was up before the " king of the barn 
yard " had intoned his matutinal song, felt like a happy 
manner, and was able to continue the journey. 

It was not the sea sickness then that worried me 
most, but "The where, when and how " were the mysteries 
to be solved.. Finally patience was rewarded in the march 
of time and the cherished day-dream of my years was fast 
becoming a delightful reality. 

Through the kindness of His Grace the Archbishop 
of Montreal and the warm-hearted generosity of the 
beloved priests and people of St. Anthony's the means 
wherewith I must need undertake the vovage to '' the 



enchanted regions of the unknown " were forthcoming 
and at my ready disposal. 

With good prospects of soon crossing the Mediter- 
ranean and the Atlantic I developed a lively interest in 
ships, steamers, ocean currents, fogs, sandbanks ship- 
wrecks, whales and porpoises. I read up the common 
nautical terms and became familiar with aft, (aVjaft) 
forward, starboard, port, larboard, lec-side, weather- 
side, fore-and-aft, midships, etc. etc. Then I studied 
up the time at sea, which is marked by " bells," and 
again the distant objects visible at sea. so that I began to 
possess a slight knowledge of the little things that make 
the sea voyage all the more interesting. With everything 
then that a traveller requires to set out upon a happy 
journey - the good will and best wishes of superiors, 
friends and relations— I stepped aboard the "Atka," a 
Pullman car attached to the train leaving Montreal, on 
the evening of the seventeenth of June, 1907. 

The bustle of the day was now over. New avenues 
opened up and afforded a view of the passing scenery 
under the rising moon, but no sooner does the monotonous 
rumbling of the wheels greet my ears, than " I feel an 
exposition of sleep." In other words, I had reached the 
quiescent state and began to peruse the daily papers. 

Our first long stop was at St. Johns. At Rouses 
Point two American custom house officers entered the 
train, and went through each car to examine the baggage 
in the usual way. They met in the car in which I sat 
and one said to the other: " Discover anything dutiable, 
John? " " Don't think so! There's one man"— pointing to 
him— "who is coming from the Old Country, and another 
gentleman going to the Old Country, by way of Naples." 




'Rut pardon me.- sai.l the man to whom he pointed 

W are m,stakon, I am not eomin, from an old a>u v' 

^ttTh r;T ■ ,P^'^-" ••-*'' the ready-witted offi! 

Am t that place old enough yet - and he walked awav 

was no babj m the eyes of the American public 

New \ ork was reached early next mornin^and the more 


Ere the whisties of Xew York ',->,> „ j . . . «„„„ ^ad die, „p„„ ,h, ,„, „, ,,_ '^^ *P' 

-e unshipped, and .owlv J.l° '/' ^ h?"S" 
*amed „aj«,ieaUy d„„„ .he .s.L™,- . e „a. " „, 
whch was dancing ,o fte beams of .he brillian, Jl" " 
f .. were merry, and a lovely, eloudless sky f, Led .h" 
canopy under which we were ,„ begin our journey '' 

Soon the farewells of friends become inaudible- ,h. 
wav , „, handterehiefs cease: .he lofty bu Id n^'L* 

r:4tr:o°vi:!*'- ""^-"-^ --"-- - - ::: 

I' is now 2 p.m., lunch is just over; we are passing 
Sand.^ Hook and abou. .o gain ,he open sea. The ,"f 
shmes b„ on ,he deep blue rirror-Iike sea Z 
sheds a fnendly light on the fading shores q„ , t 
disappears and there is nothi„„ ''. ""'""■ ^^ '""d 
sea guns that are st^hoTe'S JTeX: 1^7' 
continues fine, the bree.e reLhing:':n?''our'g:i,f„- 


skipiHT is cuttiti},' through the classic waters of the mighty 
deep. And as evening' falls upon the tWin^ day, the pas- 
seriRers who are seated in the steamer chairs 
look back upon the journey over the mirror-like sea to 
observe the marvellous natural tone j.ictures produced 
by the setting sun. The sky extending over the .sea is 
of a H«ht blue, soft clouds in delicate tints han^j motionless 
around and the deep blue sea diders in shades in the east 
and west. Then the sun appears like a ijolden orange, 
sinks Kiadually into the west and lights up the rippling 
sea for miles around. N'ight has fallen and the peace of 
the evening lies over the waters. The steamer's lights 
arc lit and the decks have the ajjpearance of crowded city 
streets. While some are sitting and enjoying the rising 
moon, others are walking around the decks discussing the 
comforts of the steamer and kindness of the crew. The 
hour grows late, and one by one the passengers exchange 
courtesies and say " good night." 

Next morning there is nothing in sight, but the sun 
has risen and gives promise of a bright, clear day, nothing 
in sight for days in fact, so to gain some pleasure from the 
passing hours we looked upon •:'■ e sun-rise and sun-set, 
on the daily return of day and night, on the struggle bet- 
ween light and darkness, on the whole solar drama in all 
its details that is a^ t'd every day in heaven and in earth. 
And as the deep blue waters reflected the beauties of the 
celestial ocean we mused on the white-capped wave and 
the truly marvellous roll of the restless sea. 


In the afternoon of Wednesday, June 26th, at 5 p.m., 
we got the first glimpse of the Azores, and these semi- 
tropical islands, rising out of a summer sea, are grate- 



ful v.s.ons in the mi.lst of a trunsatlantic trip There 
are "."e islands in the ^roup and are known as St. MarVs 
S . Michael s.Terceira. St. George. Grae.osa. Faval. Pico 
Flores an.l Carvo. They belong to Portugal and the lan- 
guage sp„k.-n is Portuguese. St. Mi. hael's. the largest, rich- 
est an.l most important of the cluster was discovered in 14,0 
by Goncalo Velio Cabral. acting under orders of the Infant 
Don Hennque of Portugal, This islan.l .s ,; m.Ies long 
8 to g m.ies wid.. and has .-. population of ,.,,,,50 a^ 
distance fn-m Lisbon is 8,,o miles, from .\\.w York . „c 
miles; and is well known to the world's tourists, 'its 

chief port is Ponta 
Dcl^iada. (ipposite 
whii h our shij) cast 
anchor, and land 
ings were m.tdi' hv 
means of small 
boats, but not 
without the amus- 
ing incidents that 
usually occur when 
the fair sex en- 
deavor to lea]) from 
a 'ship's laiidcr to 
a small boat which 
is being tipped and 
roughly tossed bv 
the angry sea. 

the time to leap, 
and misialculating 
the distance, each 
feat, as w el! as 



Nmive C-wluiiii's, St. .Miclmcrs. .\zorps. 


every a«empt that failed was rewarded with a drenching 

thiL". : """r "' " '''' *°"''^^- '^ -- the cor ect 

hmg o do. and there was nothing to it -it was easy 

Upon , the visitor observes the beautiful p^bi; 

bu.ldm,s. attractive stores, splendi.l churches, grand botan 

gardens and many handsome private residences The 

That fT" " '""" '° '"'^ "^^'^ ^^' ^'^-'^ d-- - typS' 
That of the n,en consists of a suit of homespun co'ton 

att^reT ?r'^"' ''' *° "'^'^'^''^^ balance o^tTe that of the women is most peculiar. A - Capote 

worn by them is a cloak of dark blue cloth and a hoodTf t L 

i^^rthTL :'r"'r'^ ->-• ^-^--'^ 

and helH . K ° '"^' '" " '^'^'^P'^S ^"--- stiffened 

and held out by whale-bone or wire. Their whole oatfi. 

look, like the dross of a relig.ous order "''^^ 

We were not lon,^ ashore before a youth, a native 

wanted"' ''"-.'7" "' ^^'^^ ^^^^"^^^^'^ ^^ ^^ed i w 
• lal t^ ' ;■. '""^ "•' ■*'''^^' ^-h- - he.- He 
th ci"v ' r" "; '"^"' -^--ts. we w,shed to see 

">e cty. Come on. Come on !- said he. and when we asked 
where he was about to lead us. his shoulders went up and 

of eLT ; °";'""'^= '' '''' ^^^^-^^^ ^^^ mattering 
st we fo' '. ^°"'.^-'"*^— other word. Needlessto 
say we found a guide who conducted us to the pubic 

fa" ed b :'1'r'' '^^"^^^"' ^^^-^ measure and con! 
tamed beds of the rarest palms, flowers and trees of everv 

bC;" T '': '^''' -^^^°"- -- there an 
u"Z' u '' '''' '^"'"^ °^ '^' gardens there was a 

tr ef thaTh f '"' '^^" ^'^ ^'^ *°P °^ ^^^ stately old 
trees that have borne the blasts of years, there came the 
song of the feathered choir and their'music mingHn^w ^ 
the b, transformed the garden into one of naturJ^s 

most pictuiesque and enchanting bowers. 




\«sits were then made to the old monastery of St 
Barbara, which is situated in the centre of the citv end 
surrounded by a very hi^h but spotlessly clean wall ' The 
chap,! was open to visitors, and throuRh an iron grating separated the monastery from the chapel, nuns 
could be seen in prayer an- 1 at their devotion. The chapel 
wuh ,ts .lecorations does not. nor cannot deny its year., 
for both time an<l age are written in indelible characters 

An Ox Cart, .«t. Micharri., A.ores. 

upon its altars, walls and pictures. Our next visit was to 
St. Michael's Church under the administration of the 
Jesuit Fathers. Here also we were kindly received and 
shown through the church and the sacristv. in which 
there were many precious souvenirs and costly relics 
From a "landau" we viewed the remainder of the town 
Dnvinglthrough the principal thoroughfares which are 
nicely paved and exquisitely clean, we observed the quaint 
architecture of the houses, and stopping here and there 


to talk ^ith the natives rc^arclinK the town we became 
fam.l,ar many of their characteristics 

thoJ^^u'T'" "'' "'"°*' >'°" '"'' '^"^^ hand, across 

even height. s.m.I.arly constructed and spotless in color 
Donkeys do the hauling and are usually saddled with two 
huge baskets filled with onions, fru.ts of difTerent kin" 

c" ep th"";-' '"' °''" ^"^'^^^""- "^''-d ^»'« •^-•'ey 
b> w th the cho.ce goods he has to .lispose of. What next I 
A P.cture from real life. An old man and woman perched 
UF^n a venerable and stubborn donkey, whose solrous 
bra> >s m un.son w,th the harsh voice of the riders 

of th x' ^'""''^r" ''" '^'''^"">' '''>' *" ^*'»^'"'- "^ the people 
of h Azores that they are industrious, g.ven to hard work 
orderly and clean in their habus and around the.r homes 

V dlous. They are lovers of home, and are religious without 
th sHghtest fanaticsm. They are a God-fearing and 
a prosperous people. 

The soil of the islancl is fertile, and the principal 
products are corn, varieties of fruit, such as bananas, figs 
pears, apncots. pine apples being most common. 
s p ent. ul--qua,l abounds. The difference m the tempera- 
ture IS shght.and the equable climate renders the Islands 
most healthy. Fevers are unknown there, and .snow t 
never seen, except in Pico, which ,s 7,.oo ft. high. 

^cor rhl i!r'' ''"''■' '*' "'"^'^ ''■°'" " Po'-tuguese word 
Acor (hawk) g,ven to it by the d.scoverer. on account of 
the great number of birds of prey which he found there 

stean^* 't ^''"' ^J^""' '" "^"'^^'^ ""^ ^^ ^'^ ^g^'" ""der 
steam. At some distance from the ship we get a good 

v.ew of Santa Maria, the island at which Christopher Cofum 



bus touched on his return from the discovery of Awrica 
on the 1 8th Feb., uojj. Field Klasses are n«)W brought to 
play uiMm the fading shores, urn! are particularly centered 
uiHjn a native windmill whi< h was revolving on the SMmmit 
of a very hi^h mountain, while others ajjain were fixed upon 
the low, flat-roofed, yellow, white and blue houses that 
nestled by the water's edge. 

The remaining luujrs of the afternf)On j)asse<l in quiet 
conversation. The subjects varud, but were mostly u|K)n 


iW ? Ti^ 


«« ONiOM'4 SlalU M MicM«tl.i-flZOMI 

An Oniiiii S^lliT, SI. Micliiipl'-, Aiiorf«. 

the "landings," manners and characteristics of the Azorians, 
the peculiarities of the place and the sights which impressed 
them most. 

It was now even-tide, and the wonderful coloring 
produced on the sea by the departure of the sun had begun 
to fade. The blue haze had darkened, and, as if welcoming 
night, the lights began to appear on the decks. 

At 8.30 p.m. cards are in progress in the saloon, while 
out on deck many are seated in admiration of the star-lit 



canopy, an«l nwuititiK the first \>vv\> of the soft, mrlluw 
m(K>n that has uttdi/'mnifil us fmh fvcniriK 

In tho face of Huch a rare Mummcr's ni^ht ut srn. it WM 
diftii ult, indi'fd, to Noparatr one's «flf from the scene, which 
may l)c (htHsiHcd anion>{ the most i harming that I've ever 

The following davs were Hpent in kai^^s and amuse* 
ments, some of the ladies distinKViiiihing themnclves at 
I ticket, hasoball, .shuffleboard, and in the needle and biscuit 
races, which were the cause of much amusement and no end 
of laughter. 

The evenings were given up to cards and dancing, and 
thus the hours whiled away to the music of the ship's 


Sunday, June 30th, at 7 a.m., we came in sight of land 
— a succession of small islands — and as we near them they 
grow into mountains of a great height. It is (tibraltar 
on the one side — on the other, the shores of Africa. Just 
here a school of dolphinos (fish) are engaged in a sort of 
hurdle race, jumping; the waves in full view of all on board. 

At length we have reached proml Gibraltar — the grand 
old Rock, the well-accepted synonym of strength and im- 
pregnability, the courtry's stronghold at the entrance of 
the sunlit Mediterranean— famed in song and story. As 
the ship steams slowly through the Straits, which separate 
the continents of Europe and Africa, and picks her way 
into the harbor, where she anchors in the very shadow of 
the historic "Pillar of Hercules," reality supplants anticipa- 
tion, and the traveller sees in substance what has been for 
days a familiar object of his mental vision; and a nearer 
view still shows a covering of vines and shrubbery and 



many natural lavi ami piuiiaKCi whirh lead to iu very 

Landing %a* madr in a t»nel«r. and a walk thmuKh 
the town, which in on Spanixh a* the Rarriuoniit KngliMh, it 
rewarded by many unfamiliar hut intcnutinj; »(crc» Hail- 
ing on^ of the jwculinriv shaptd cabs that ply on the xtreet* 
we drove to the Alameda, tin- p-blio gardens ami jKipuIar 
pr«»menn«|p, theme we walkefl to the fortifiraticms, ami 

Ihr AlHntmln I iihrnllnr. 

finally to the old Moorish castle, which today .serves 
as a military prison. 

At every turn leading to the hill one meets British 
soldiers in smart uniform, and now and again hears the 
bugle call and the sound of drums. Standing upon the 
great heights of the rock we looked down upon the blue 
Mediterranean on the one side and the beautiful green hills 
of Grenada on the other- hills on which many American 
and English tourists find both pleasure and health, and 
which are widely known throughout, ihe country for their 



•up«Th Mrntry At flu- Imw i.r tlu rotk ami Htoni; the 
water's ei||{c iit th. town, v ih tt* narrow *tri-.t!. i»n<l i«lrn«li«r 
r»a«ewBy Cihraltar i» of small i-st.nt, l.ut wh.n ni'iPsMty 
n^quirm it can easily encompann an army of j 7,000 men 
Gmtinuing our visit we « rovic«l the Bntuh line» ami 
foun«l ountelvrs in another <<.untrv Direc tl\ opiMiMternh 
ra!tar. on the sanu huv, is the pii turesqu. Iv Imated town - ' 
Aljfei iras. founiied hy the M.K»rs. ami m.w im|K>rtant as the 
point whenre Ciihraltar ami Tan^'iers. on the African. oast, 
i m last Ik- rea. he.| A fiw hours fre.m AIi{e«ira« l.rinKs 
the trH\tlU-r t-» S»mIU'. whi. Ii • enturiis ai-o was the »m1o' ".I 
city f the Moor To .lay it is the hotni-of the «uitar. thi- fan 
ami the Mtn^. and the renihwous of the most putur-s'juc 
{wasantry of Southern Spain Alweciras belongs to the 
province of KstranuKliira (the' rxlrrm.- Ian<|i, an-l among 
Its national sports is the bull (i<ht, A bull-rinK ' apable 
of seatiiij,' 10,000 persons is one of the principal attractions 
of the town 

Return was ma<le by way of Gibraltar, thence by uniler 
to the ship. 

Viewed from the bridjje of the shiji the historic ruck 
presents an imi>osinK picture that of a lion crouching, under 
whose head rests in silent an«l lonely graves the heroes 
who fouK'lil an<l fell in defence and in honor of the world's 
most hon<jred MaK'. Weighing anchor and ileparting we 
breathed a prayer for the country's sons who are asleep by 
the deep; whose mission is accomplished ; who are gone; yet 
leaving behind them magnificent recr)rds of themselves and 
of their love of country. Enf-ring the sunny waters of the 
far-famed Mediterranean the journey seaward is continued. 

Monday. July 1st. at 6 a.m., I was aroused from my 
slumbers by the shrill cry of a room steward. "All hands up 
and in qj -she's Hooded!" The running, the noise and 


•houiiriK Of the men»«tr.| that thr« wm •omrthing 
• wnmK. Ho I ji,m|HM frum mv »*rth l« the floor 
hut wrnt h«, k AKam with a Umml that wmiM .lo c redit to li 
Roman athlrto my niom wu« .ul>mrrv'f,| m water. I |>u«h««| the hutfm. m came the steward. 
" What haa hapinned* What u the matter?" 

• Oh. nothing nothing to worry anyone : tt will he all 
right m a few minute* " 

The •t.ward i harge.l with the duty of cloaing of thf 
port-hole, each night had fallen a.leep ; the detk haml. 
washed down the dcTki.with the re«ult that the water found 
lU way into the roomi. Tht^e wa. no evident damage 
except that the dreu iuit ca»e containing mv clothe* waa 
■oakcd in the nalt water. 

Delightful experience! wasn't it. eh? 

We were no* eleven day* at ,ea. and to relieve the 
monotony of the Umv In.t i.lca.unt vnyuge the captain 
ordered a programme of games an.l sfH.rts to be framed for 
the afternoon. 

At 3.^o o'clock the deck was in readihw . .r the »cr.e« 
of events, which came off in the following order : 
1st. Potatoc race girls and men. 

Combination race, threading needles and eating 
girls and men. 
Bag race for girls and boys. 
Thrce-lcRKcd race -for girls only 
Huoy. hurdle and tube race for girls only. 
Combination race for men. 
Tug of war women and girls, men and boys. 
The succeeding hours and day passetl quietlv. and were 
very agreeably broken by the charming panc'>rama pro- 
duccd by the ever-changing cloud pictures, and the soft, 
merry rippling of the placid sea. 

5 th. 


• I 

Al 4pm. TuMi.I«y. July inAr^niea, %hv \»rthp\»tt uf 
NiiiK>l«>n »n<i tht. lan.f of ihr UUnnW vcn.lntji. i. „Khud. 
In InnKUAKr. climntf »n<i Mtimti'm thu lii<in.l u aI| ItAlian 
•UhoUKh It wa« mlcl to Fr»m« m i7ftM. an.l ha» „mt' 
fnrme.1 a |>«rt of the tcrntwy of that i.,u.>trv Mryond 
CofHica he* thr prrttv httk i«lan<l of Capraja Ifprv the 
•hip .limtu it.« cmmr fi the narrow ihannri whi.h he* 
between the l.lan.1 of EIha un.l the mainlan.l. an.l an the 
•un «<H^* ,Umn into the »ea the view tow<»r.l« Elba, with its 
memorun* of exile^l Na|>ol«>n. ita vincyar.U. it» ohvc or- 
thar.U, anil lU extensive ftshrrici. t« a wonderful pu tur». 
In the l.atkKr.iun.1 there in the UmK (ham of hilU ol 
violet o.lor. to the west there u a beautiful oranxe rIow. 
which upreadinK over the canopy of the firmament chanKf. 
to a pronounced red Then come the deep shadet of night, 
•nd the houm whuh breathe of silence an.l of thankdRiving 
for the day i» at rest 

CoMica ia separated from Sanlinia by a narrow strait. 

The next .norninK we m^ht nnd arc nearinK Mount 
Circello, This is the historic mountain of Kreat height, 
upon the summit of which traditi.m has placed the palace 
of the Homeric sorceress Circe. SiH)n the «roup «,f Pon«a 
Islands appear the little town of I'onja bcmK built on the 
larKcst one; an<l in the K'reat |)anorama spread out l»efore us 
wc can distinjruish the Island of Ischia. 

Continuing our course along the lovely Italian coast 
with its ever-changing glory of sunlight and shadow, wc 
come uijon the giant guardian of the Bay of Naples 
Mount Ef)omco. and observe behind it the Castello dlschia. 
which is near to us, and the sharp-edge.l Sphinxlilce f.,rm' 
of the Island of Capri. 




At k-nKtI. w,- arf in si^'lit .,f the much coveted (ihject 
of our v,sK.n. an<l as the ship enters the peerless Bay cf 
Naples, the l.eauty of the l.k.e waters, surrounded bv 
towering hills, adorned with ruins and oran.^a- proves is 
simply mdescnhal.le. It is h.Te that the spirit rises with 
the elevatinK influence of tlie scene, and that one uncon- 
saousiy utters to Inmself. " there is no such lahvrinth as 
that which Xaples presents." Lvaninj? over the ship's rail 
we gaze with delight at the hroad expanse of sunlit, dancing 

Bay .)( Naples. 

water, dotted with white sails; at the brilliant crescent of 
the city; at the undulating hills with their bewildering suc- 
cession of elegant castles and villages; at the worid of ship- 
ping in the harbor ; at the picturesque coast of Sorrento; 
at the smoking cone of old Vesuvius ; and as th ship slowly 
picks her way through the numerous other ships, steamers 
and boats, we distinguish in the semicircle the graceful 
and splendid architecture of the houses and buildings that 
girt the shore-the whole of which is a pretty picture and 


AND TllK()l<;il TlIK KMKkAl.l) ISLE 2^ 

a velvety dream from wliich one awakens onlv after the 
curtain has risen on the aquatic feats. 

i.T>: un-hor is cast a number of Italians in small boats 
' Kircle the .I,n. Some of them have fruit an.l souvenirs 
■'■■> c'l-pose (.f; ,thers again sing, and play livelv music on 
c^- 1 in<; .iin.s. while others perform feats that naturally 
amuse some, but surprise all. Thev holler for a coin and 
immediately it is thrown into the water. One or two nearest 

Naples and Ve.suviug Smoking. 

appear in a few seconds with the prize between his toes or 
again between his teeth. As unfeathered ducks thev cannot 
be beat. 

Lying at the base of Vesuvius, at the end of a world- 
famed bay. Naples is a proud city, celebrated for its -reat 
the spot leap from the boat, make a straight dive and re- 



beauty. It would be vain to attempt to reiterate the 
reputation of its palaces and museums, which contain one 
of the most wonderful collections of art treasures in the 
world ; ,t would he vain to describe its maRnificent churches 
w,th tlHT wealth of art, its theatres, the ancient frescoes its 
statuary, its paintings, its splendid collection of ,..„ of 
Pompen, and the historical monuments which add lustre to 
Its surroundings. 

Naples and Mmint Vesuvius. 

But the charms that are centered in her peerless bav 
cannot be exaggerated nor denied, for their manifold 
glones have been sung to the world, told in story and are 
still borne on the breeze that flaunts her flag. 

Ashore Naples loses much of its beauty and glamour 
though she retains much of interest to the traveller and 
has unlimited attractions for art students and lovers of 
antiquities. Among the places of interest of which she may 
well boast are the Ca,stle del Ovo. a landmark of the icth 
century; the Cathedral, built in 1272, contains many 


granite columns and marbles from the Roman temples of 
Neptune and Apollo, besides beautiful paintings and 
historic tombs. The chapels are of great richness, par- 
ticularly that of St. Januarius, where the miraculous blood 
is preserved. There are many beautiful churches, among 
which are the Votive Church San Francisco di Paolo, 
built in imitation of the Pant i, with a dome 175 feet 
hi^'h. Other places of interest are the Xational .Museum, 


the University, Royal Palace, Castle Nuovo. Triumphal 
Arch, Villa Nazionale, the Aquarium, St. Elmo's Castle 
the Library and Conservatory of Music. 


No tourist visits Naples without hearing of the charms 
of Sorrento. It is said, in fact, that it is one of the beauty 
spots of the world. With the idea then of obtaining some 




souvenir Of this marvellously l.oautiful pen.nsular town 
s.tuateci ,n the mi.lst of orange and lemon proves, and so 
conven.ently reached from Naples, we stepped aboar.l the 
Pnncess Irene and after short sail we were landed in the 
Dreamland of Italy." 

Wishing to vis-t the Blue C.rotto. of which we had 
heard so many nice things, we re-embarked and were shortlv 
m Capn. where by means of small boats we were able to 
enter the wonderful cave (Blue Grotto) and enjoy a sight 
that .s really marvellous. Here too. f„r the amusement 

Hlue Grotto, Capri. 

Of the visuor. a boy delights to dive, and it is a strange 
s.ght to see him come to the surface with his kinky hair 
full of .silver drops. Even the oars dropped in the heavilv 
chargtjd water appear silver-like. •• The boy sees nothing 
but silver, when the visitors are leaving " 

It being noon, and lunch hour, we drove to the Eden 
Molaro Hotel, situated on the .summit of Anna Capri and 
overlookmg the Bay of Naples. Capri is a quaint, old town 
and a delightful resort for one who is in search of rest and 



Rt'turning to Sorrento by sti-amcr v.v put up at the 
" Tramontano," a lif)tfl which is patronized by the best 
tourists. In the evening, for the entertainment and pleis- 
uro of the quests, the celebrated • Tarantella " dance was 
performed l)y a uroup of natives dressed in picturesque 
costumes. No sooner was th.- signal jjiven when away 
whirled the merry dancers to the peculiar music of violin and 
guitar, and the measured beat of castcnet and tambourine. 


It was a strange performance, but one that would 
surely cause the toil-worn peasant, the weary traveller or 
the lonely heart to throw off the burden of the dav and leap 
to the wild music so cheerfully rendered by the light-hearted 

By the way. a dependance of the " Tramontano " is 
the house in which the famous poet Tasso was bom in the 
year 1544. 



From Sorrento the drive over the mountains and alon^ 
the coast is unequalled for its must pleasing variety an.l 
Rrandeur of scenery. On the way we dined at the • Can- 
puccini Hotel - in Amalfi. which was formerly a monastery 
the chapel of. which, with all ,ts ancient paraphernalia is 
open daily t<> visitors. 

Leaving Amalfi at 4 p.m and continuing our journey 


along the picturesque coast of Salerno, we entered the 
town of La Cava at nightfall, and dashed down its narrow 
streets at a madcap pace. The old postilion cracked 
his long white whip incessantly, and the sound 
echoed back from the dusky walls like the report 
that follows the bombardment of a town. The coach was 
wide and the wheels nearly touched the houses that lined 
the streest; th-^ promenaders skipped to the right, dumped 

AM. Tllkorc.M THK KMKHALI. ISI.K ,p 

to tlu. I..ft; .i„«s l.arl.-nl a„.| .at. ran wiM; .vorvthinK 

own r '" T "';r""'""-""''-l-- that ...uon..! the 
to^^n that n,,ht. VVV ,.ut i.p .t tho • Motol .|o Unrlros " 
when- we spt-nt the- qi.i..t,.st n.i,'ht of our tr.,. 

\oxt morning w. journ.ynl to Po,,,,..,,, ,„.. .hs^n- 

t«.ml....l atv, ami .h.votnl „n,.h ,i„u. ,o ,h.. stu.h of the 
ruins. '■ 

A View fro,,, ,|,e HnRl.I, „f An.alfi 


We are now in the midst of the rums of Pompei, and 
walkm,^ over the remnants of a onee proud citv. While 
vsUmK tlu. Bourbon Museum in Xaj-les, we saw and touched 
what a j,uard indicated to be " The Sentmel of Pompeii " 
it was a suit of armor enclosing the skeleton of a soldier 
who w-as on sentry before the guard of the Romari 
centunon, at Pompeii m the 79th year of the Christian era 

' 5 , 



It naturally fxatinl our rurioHily, an.l inquinnu fi-rth.T 
■ntM ,t, wt. foun.l that hr l.a.l Ju-.-n plarc.l as stntind 
"" IMH ,K,st tho ,,r.l XovmlKT of tl..- sanu. voar wlu-n 
t u. city „f H.rculancum an.l Vun^^K'u ha.l Uvn 

Tl... sucMest of all sa.l .layn. Thi- sun ha.l riachi.l tho 
"uri.lian; tlu- intial.itants. an.l tranquil, wm- otru- 
l".-.l tiK. c.f t'u- hour thorr was no sijjn in tlu- 
d< skv or on thr earth to indicate a chanK.-, but fearful subterranean noises an.l rumhiinK's were 
lieanl :n the .lirection of Vesuvius. Immediately torrents 
of Mame an.l enornious masses of leaped hinh into the 
a.r, an.l the crater eommence.l to lul.h f.>rth from its hor- 
rid an.l extended mouth dense of ashc-s and a l.ruwn 
J'urnmu lava, whieh in a short time hurie.l the sister 
towns, Darkness supervene.l; the solid crust of the earth 
sIuH.k with violence, an.l the inhabitants flew in conster- 

<"-ntl<' rea.ler. puture the scene. There was no m.>on 
to l.Kht the of the iiour into which the people 
rushe.l in wil.l dismay. Some ran to the ri^ht. ..thers to 
the left they knew not where, for the smoke ha.l a.ided 
to the darkness that obscured the wavs. Voices of pan-nts 
are heard on every .si.le. Fathers calling for their children 
and wives, and crying women impl.,re.l the Great Oo.l to 
stay Hts visitation; but it continued, ai,.I for three davs 
an.l niKhts what seeme.l to be the final .lis.solution pre- 
va,le,l. When the darkness raised, a funereal pall is thrown 
over the scene an.l the stars keep watch over the graves 
of the .lead. The sun shines with his usual bri^'htness 
the people deplore their and their .lescendants to this 
da>- supplicate in behalf of their departed dead. Thence 
we returned to Naples. 


of ,h'' '"'*' "^'''"'«''»- -^"'y ^^h. ere the fe^tivife. in honor 
"f the .00th anniversary of the l>irth of Oaribald. were 

Z' h\" 'T '"'-' '•^""- ""' ^'«'"^'» »^"^ p'«y«"i «n" 

n .vened the day that Id the monnter procession, throuKh 
»^ my streets, that .l.scoursed the sweetest music in the 
u».hc gardens at night, had played their last tune, and the 

' he hKhts of the cty. which had thrown such a brilliant 
ustre over the monuments, the city park. .„d pu^ 
>u. drngs. were being lowered, and what was a bla "e of 
light .s now enshrouded in darkness. Out in the Bay 
however, there is much ar.imation. ^' 

Mail wf'^' -^""^ ^'''"' ''"'^P""''- "^ '^^ P'-^ Asian 
;t L r K /' T'"'"^ '^' ''^'""'"^^'^ °^ her cargo and 
the mads, before her departure for Port Said and the Red 

It was shortly after midnight when we embarked and 

qu.etly took her course along the coast of Sorrento then 
southwards through the Bocca Piccola. the straits btw^ 
Punta della Campanella. the farthest iK>int of the Soiren^ 
penmsula. and the Island of Capri. Owing to the darknes^ 
^< ould but famtly observe the beautv of the Gulf and 
overcome with sleep we retired for the night 

About nine o'clock next morning we are in sight of the 
Lapan Islands, that marvellous volcanic group, from whose 
highest summit, - Stromboli." we can see smoke and flames 
issumg at intervals. 

Next we come in sight of Bagnara. a small but pretty 

sight of It before we get a glimpse of picturesque Messina 
a prominently situated town along the shore and up the 




i^lopinR hill. Then c^mc« « ,ucce.M,.o„ of vcrdur. cM 

capi^d .«tni» towrrinK away over all 

The «a.l throuKh the hutoric Strait, of Mewin. at m.d- 

d.y when the • kinK of day ' ., be.towi„K hi. rav. upon 
the. an,,,«,, «„, ,,^,^^„ .„,^ ^^^. ^^,^^^ ^^ J^^^ .upon 

.«ubhn,e opiK,rtun.tyof, the town,. villaKe. v'Z 

Moun?J!J;' '"T'' "' ^''''^' '" '"*' "«''' " »"^ P"'°»« range 
Mount XEtna domtnutmR th.m, 0„ the uther .ide of the 

Calabnan coa«t in S<yIIa. Here Mount .Etna which we 
continued to ,ee for hour.. .. d..appeari„g and we a" 
rapidly losing si^ht of land 

When the weather i. clear Crete with Mount Ida- the 
•ncent abode of the ^ods i. faintly discerned 

-ieht^'savrthfh n' ' 7^^'^°' '"-" ^^"'^ '^ -•^»''"« - 
«.ght save the b.llows th.t rise as a result of the wind and 

ca.. .ur sh,p to pitch very considerably. ThT tr"e 

h.v. ,n,oyed th. trip, the accomn^odatln of h shTp 

bS a d r '"'r ^""" ''-''' ^^^ 3ta<,erol : 
bnght and clean, the tabl. is supplied with the very best 
the. market affords, and the service maintained up to a very 
>ugh standard of excellence. Tourists who travel by 
the Norddeutscher Lloyd Steamer to Egypt will certainlv 
enjoy a delightful outing at sea. ^ "'^ 

the fim'thlr "''! "'■';" "'^ "' "^*""« P°« Said. .„d 
the first thing v.s.ole m the distance is the Damietta light- 

fisamg fleet of .00 small boats; and lastly the stone jettie. 
remarkable for their great length, one of which extendi « 
meters into the sea, built to protec t the Suez Canal from the 
running mud of the Nile. And steaming slowly Z h 


harbor Mwr.„ thr tw<, wr obt«.n u .p.end.d v.ew 
.tl u ;7 ". ''" ''•'"^ '"'-»..unu. and .; the coLhL^ 


aII«u.|.U.n. What « nuxtur.- ,.f ,„„t, vou «.. 

Nubians black as coal. Ab;ss,„ia„s. C„pts. Armcn- 
•ans. Crc-cks. Turks. Arabs. KnKHshm.n Kn-n . 
I ahans. Amencans and Irishmen. There- is hero mankind 
o every descnption. Oriental Hfe predonunates, and h re 
he We.n comes mto dose contact the East and show 
m the most strikm« manner its superiority over the oLt 
On the one you see the squalid native, whose .gnorance 
., m d,r.ct proportion to hi. d.rt; on the other, the well 



upon thr slothful „«t.v.. „r th. ,..,| IU,,„^ ,,,„,;, 
our h«.,„e.. the c.u«t.>m h.>u.. «„, u,U „. , 

Its. «n.| fin.ln« no,hm« of any ^rc^t interr,t «,>«ri 
from the Aruh v.llu«.. wc .lr.w up «t th. " Contincntlt 
wh ch ... ,f I nm..n,....r wdl, ,h,- nanu- ..f tho pr,nr.pal hotel 
on Ma,n Street, Aw.ut.M« h.,u h wc .at .>n tho ,pa ,ou, v.- 
randa whKh.wr..r.,...| a ,ran.| v.^w of th. hun.nU .ec. n 
of he town Thm. aro muMnan. aUo in IV,rt Sa..| At the 
Jirthc^t end of the v.n.„.,a .at the on hestra, hut the nn..: 
rh.l not ,ecn. to apfH-al to the «ueHt. of the 
band came aIon«. sued up the ,,uartette and said 'Oh 
EnKhsh' AnuTuans- ■ „„ ,.,u.rned to hi, chair and the 
nex tune was - L'n-ler the Shade of the Sour Apple Tre" 
U.CICS, to H„v. when the hat went roun.l, there wal a ^ener- 
ous collection of small ,K,tatoe8. 

Wher, ver one visits in the world to-dav he w,!| hear 

n the'Tl M "'"^ ■''"" ''' "'"^' '"'' ^""'''^- -"« -'^ "'- -• 
in ine same old way 

After seein, all that was to he seen .n and around Port 
Sa d w. se. ou, ..r Curo ..nd Up,K. KKvpt. The jnurnev 
ook aboue four hours, hut as we .... seated m aLson- 
ahly comforrahle car. . pass-d .,u.. kly, Leav.n, Fort 
Saul U..- ra.iwav runs :.,.....,. th. Sue. Canal .ll\ul 
great Men.aleh Lake t.. Kant.ra .,., A low ch n 
o^d ,.,v..,,.U.eMen.a..hfr.„uh...stofthe™ 
land that the . onnnKs and «oi„. .,f ,•:,,,,;,„ ,„, ,,^^, h..tweenSvna an. i K,v,.t took place ,n ancient tnncr 

AMI niKiM l.ll f||> ^y»^^^ lUllt 

W.M of Kanlara ul«.u, ,o ,,,,1,, ,,.. „,„,„ ^,„ 
.n.« .«||..., T..I ,1 l>,. ...... fun. ,....„ f.,..„., »„ 

« Mr » ..,„.. to nmrk f »»• Mt. of ,h. Tuh,..„h.. ..f S. r„>.ur... 

« "^ I>'.|.h,m. ..f th.. f;r....k, Th.. r..,na,„. an- ..f „,.. ,.,„.. 

...« of .,„H. Mr , f ,, ,,..... „,., ,,^,^„'^^ ,,;,, 

Wn th. •• iro»M.,.f |.hara..l,. .„.r.. V.Mn..h pr.,.|,..,.,, 

:<l".Miii« Kruit tr.,i„ I ,,,*r l.ifv,,! 

tfiiiplf (,f Ramrs.s ![ 

-^-^^ ^v.. mil ..Io„K..v..r,h..u,.i..,.x,...„... ,„.„„„„, ^,,„,!,,.,l,..rt.,tlMtsp,a,ns..,, 
Kl.mps.sof t(u. s„..,I pain. Knnvn oas.s. tlu- ,«„. \r-.l. 
v.IlaK.s. ,1... .a„u.|s an.| hutlaloc-s, th. w.rk.n, Mlahs 
'" th..,r l,hu- sh.rts, th.. a„.l the flocks, and th- 
pnnm.v.. fdlahccn,..s. huilt of X.l.. „H,.,, All the • 
co„.b,n...i the. nu.ncrous works an,i unv. f,>. .....' 




water an oriental character to the picture which i, 

fiom P°r. ": "" ^' ^•^"'^' "^'^-h '« --« distance 
from Port Saul, the railway reaches the highly cultivated 

delta country, where cotton, corn and clover all thrive 

haxunantly. The journey through the desert from Is! 

ma.ha to Benha and from Bcnha to Cairo presents many 

pretty views, owing to the number of large and well 

A Crocodile Chaiw in the Nile. 

populated oases which have sprung up as a result of the 
Sweetwater Canal; although oriental life is still to be seen 
unqualified by the metropolitan atmosphere of Cairo, or the 
international atmosphere of Port Said. 

In Port Said, as well as on the Suez Canal, the French 
element subsists. On the other hand, between Alexandria 
and Cairo English influence predominates. 



To the traveller arriving at the central railway station 
and dnvmg straight to his hotel i„ thelsmaiha quarter. a first 

that fall under h,s notice are the large European houses 
the watered roads with the dust extinguishers sin. aT „ 

cTotheT rr ?" " ^''""'^^- ^^^ P-P"^ - Europea" 
c othes. the hotel omnibus- these and manv other tWngs 

all belong to Western civil.ation. But the Arab i„ hil ,0'; 

whne garment with a red - tar bush " on his head or the 

lar off IS the Cairo of his imagination. 

Cairo is the greatest town of Africa and one of the most 

It iviasr el - Kahira, and are very 
proud of being Cairenes. considering 
themselves superior to the inhabi- 
tants of the other towns of Egvpt. 
It has a population of about half a 
million, of which 25,000 are Euro- 
peans. The native population is 
pnncipally composed of Fellahs 
Copts, Turks and Jews, to which 
must be added Negroes. Bedouins and 
people from other countries. In 
Cairo, it is said, as nowhere else, are 
mingled Paganism, Mohammedan- 
ism, Christianity, civilization and 
barbarmsi, refinement and degener- 
acy. Stately graves of the Caliphs, A«b w^^.n. 



the fairly palaces of splendour-loving Khedives and the lux- 
urious huropean hotels stand in close proximitv to the 
miserable huts of the Mussulmen. Wherever one goes 
something new is to be seen. In the Ismailia quarter 
one finds the Esbekiya Square a c harming pleasure 
ground ; the Place de lOpera with the opera house 
and statue of Ibrahim Pasha; the (irand Continental 
Hotel. Shephards Hotel, the International Tribunal Post 
office, etc.. etc. But the places of interest to the travel- 
ler who has but a few days at his disposal are those leading 
off the Muski. Here one finds narrow streets, tortuous 
lanes, no two houses alike; and he hears the shrieking of 
cab-drivers, the piercing cry of vendors, the tinkle of the 
brass bowls, the braying of young and old donkevs Then 
comes the dixersity of shops, dye-pools, coffee rooms, open 
workshops where shoemakerji and workmen dispose of their 
goods, fruit stalls, booths, bazaars for selling evervthing 
water earners, unveiled and veiled women, and finailv a 
medley of Nubians. Turks. Sudanese. Copts. Persians 
Arabs, Bedouins and Fellaheen, all in native costumes and 
all moving in ceaseless and chaotic confusion. This scene 
IS unrivalled in the world's cities. To enjov it. as \ have 
done, you must visit Cairo and be accompanied bv drago- 
man ■' Arrafa Hassan," who has a record that would ma'ke 
pulp of all others. 

There are 400 mosques in Cairo, and the minarets bv 
which they are flanked give to the town quite a peculiar 
character. On the east side of the town, at the foot of the 
Mokattam Mountain, are the tombs of the Caliphs, which 
are numbered among the most beautiful examples of 
Arabian art. The Citadel which dominates the town wa« 
constructed A.D. 1166 by order of Salaheddin with stones 
taken from the small pyramid of Gizeh. 



Our next visit was to the suburbs of Cairo, which arc 
wonderfully picturesque an.l replete with interest Ac- 
compan.ed by our native we .irove throu^rh tluit 
port,on of New Cairo leading to the Kasr-en-Xil UruJ 
crossed it and entered a beautiful palm-shaded avenue 
whKh follows the Nile for manv miles and runs alon« in a 
.hrec. hne to the ed^e of the Libyan .lesert. was', de- 

l.«htful rule and a charming roa.l. on either side of whi, h 

Sphinx iiikI r.vruini,l, „f r.iieU. 

as far as the eve could reach, there are level fields and little v.lla.^es. Here and there we met hun.lreds of camels 
himbenng alon,; dozens of donkeys bearing vegetables to 
market, and peasants disposing of huge melons and 
other wares. 

'' ;^1' out. gentlemen ! The Sphinx and the Pvra- 
mids . \ ou are now m presence of the Gi^eh group and 
the great pyramids. As the ground about here is rough 
and the walking somewhat l.tiguing I mounted a came! 



and from his baby hump I contemplated the vision of 
my dreams. Before mc towering «, a great height is 
one of the seven wonders of the world-the Pvramids. 
Fashioned by men. none know how. and the admired of the 
world they have stood, as intended, the test of centuries 
But those mighty mansions which we call tombs-rich and 
would-be everlasting palaces of the dead-built by kings 
and with endless gold that they might outstand the world 
are beginning to show .signs of decay, all of which goes to 
show that human affairs are by nature prone to change- 
and monuments, as well as individuals, are bom to decay' 
There is. however, a solemnity in the sunshine resting upon 
those monuments, which have .seen the rise and fall of na- 
tions, the birth and death of the world's beautiful and 
brave, the ages of wisdom, and the vicissitudes which 
humanity is heir to. ' 

With reluctance then do we leave this spot, about 
which there is a sacred stillness, to ride down by the great 
Sphinx to the Temple and out into the immense desert of 
Sahara. But even here there are new and interesting 
scenes to contemplate: the ocean of yellow sand, the bright 
heaven, the shepherd and the sheep, the wild antelope, the 
beasts of prey. These happen successivelv. and while thev 
mvite much attention, they afford unlimited gratification. 
Returning we saw the Obelisk of the Temple of the Sun God 
Ra. and the Tree of Mary, a gigantic leafy sycamore, in the 
!^ rvi/r • '° '^" g^»des-say . the Virgin Mary rested with 
the Child Jesus on the occasion of the flight into Egypt A 
fina visit was made to the Museum, which contains a 
wealth of Egyptian antiquities, a great number of monu- 
ments and statues, and many bronze and copper objects. 
It occupies a prominent position near the Kasr-en-Nil 
Barracks, and though there is nothing remarkable about the 



builchriK. It houses a colic l.on of treasures which are dear 
to the inhabitants and of great interest to strangers At 
the entrance to the Museum there is a marble sarcophagus 
which contains the remains of J. A. Mariette. a famou. 
Frenchman, who began the collection of the country's anti- 
quities in ,854. The Arab Museum is on Bab-cl-Khalk 
Square, and contains a rich collection of objects of the Arab 
epoch. Near the Ministry of Public Instruction is the 
Khedivial Library, which contains over 50.000 volumes. 
Divided in languages there are ,9.000 in Arabic. in 
European and 3.000 in Oriental languages. 

When visiting Cairo. " the Saratoga of Evgpt." it is 
the correct thing to visit the Temples and Royal Tombs 
of Luxor; the avenue of two thousand sphinxes, of Kar- 
nak. and the huge gateway seventv-five feet high the 
obelisks, the great hall, with three hundred and thirty-four 
columns thirty-six feet in circumference and sixty-six feet 
high, all decked with carvings and colors; the rock-hewn 
tombs, the Nile cataracts, are only a few of the things to be 
seen in this wonderful country. Taking our departure 
from Cairo and its surroundings was really leaving a city 
in which a sojourn was pleasantly passed; a country of 
picturesque charm and historic interest; a people who are 
a study. 


We are now in Alexandria-a city founded by Alex- 
ander the Great in 333 B.C. Leaving the railway station 
we walked up the main street which leads into the centre 
of the city, not, however, without feeling a glow of admira- 
tion at the scenes around us. Beautiful buildings with a 
finish of graceful architecture lined the street; proud palaces 
stood in the centre of picturesque squares; smart people 
were to be seen everywhere- even the man from Cook's was 



loading a party of tourists through the city ; and as the whole 
•cene grew animated around me I felt as though Alex- 
andria might be a city of luxuries and delights, and that 
the people might have voluptuous tastes. Be that as it 
may. the city has a wealth of historical associations which 
are interesting. 

One quarter of th« town, the European, wears a 
familiar aspect and is well worth seeing. There is. 
too. a promenade which is in every sense delightful! 
leading away beyond the city to Ramleh. a lovelv bath- 
mg resort in which there is the most modem and artisti- 
cally finished cottages. Again there is the Turkish and 
Arabian quarters, and though the streets, houses and 
bazaars are smaller and not so active as the Arab 
quarter in Cairo, they are nevertheless verv interesting 
and thoroughly characteinstie. The fortifications are 
above the haibor. along which there is a great num- 
ber of flat-roofed houses, some few mosques with cupolas 
and minarets, and all shaded by the old Egyptian palm 
trees. The great export houses and the various foreign 

chambers of coni- 
merce have their 
oftiLCS here, so 
that Alexandria is 
a centre for the 
EijyiJtian trade. 
In 30 B.C. it was 
annexed to Rome 
and ranked as the 
second city of the 
Roman Empire. 
When taken by 
Amru the Arabian 




in 640. he rlcscribcd it then as containinK 4.000 palaces. 
4.000 baths, and 400 theatres and phiccs of amusement- 
To-day the city in apiwarance is modern, but is proud of 
its history, and still boasts of its ancient monuments. 
Pompeys Column. Cleopatra's Needle. The Catacombs, 
the Necropolis of Koum-cl-Chougafa, the Museum of 

At 4.30 p.m.. July nth, we embarked on the S.S. 
Ismailia for Jaffa. The afternoon was calm, not a leaf 
stirred, and the sun poured down his hot beams upon the 
streets and citizens of Alexandria. 

It was a relief to put out to sea, where the wind toys 
with the wave, where the breeze creates swells, and where 
the air is usually fresh towards sunset. 

Communication with the land is now cut off. The 
ocean is growing active, it is just full of life, and as if 
heedless of the swells and whitecaps our little clipper is 
rolling up to its credit a score of knots. The sun has now 
dipped below the horizon and the gloom of the night is 
beginning to place the pall over the dead day. There is 
nothing to be done now but stretch out in the steamer 
chairs and while away the hours in conversation with our 
newly acquired friends, till we begin to topple over with sleep. 
At daybreak next morning we are in sight of land and 
are nearing Jo}, a- the gate to Palestine. This town has 
about 8.000 inhabitants. Of this number 1.000 arc 
Catholics, the rest are Greeks. Armenians. Mohammedans 
and Jews Rising high above the water it commands a 
magnificent view of the surrounding country, even to the 
mountains of Judea on the east and Mount Carmel on the 



It wan nt Jaffa (Joppa) that tho rclar and pine from 
Lebanon was landed f..r the erection of Solomons temple; 
It was here the prophet Jonas embarked for Tharsis. to 
eseape the Mission of Nineveh; it was here St. I'eter the 
AiHjstle. raised Tabitha frr^m the .lead, an.l a short walk 
to the tanners' quarter of the city, near the sea shore. 
brmKs one to the house where he spent man\ davs. These 

Jiiff*. rJnppa) 

are but some of the memories that slumber in this his- 
toric old town. 

Once ashore we are thrown in with an Oriental crowd 
whose robes, trousers and turbans, whose hands, feet and 
legs have been above water for many a lony day The 
women wear long white or yellowish-green veils, and the 
men go about in baggy trousers and with an air that must 
be, and assuredly is, peculiar to the East. 


Thf mfcts arc a luf.vrmth of l,|,n.| all.v, ar.l filthv 
l«m-s on which, as a rule, th.r.. .s much hustl.. nn-l 
Th. lonlly camel .talks uIkhu in nil the .ii«nuv of h., 
rank, and h.s tin- .lonk-v. with wll stocked 
baskets, marchc-s, hc-a.l .l..w„war,l. to the tnn.^ ,.ipe.l hv 
h.« proud master, Hoth can.els and donkevs .,„ the 
strcH ts are raKm.l in their «)ld c loth.-s. 

H«>l..iimn'. IVintile .d-ruwl^.n 

But why tarry in an., aoout Jaffa when there is so 
much more before us. 

Rainleh. nine miles d.sta, t. is .asilv reached l.v car- 
na.,e. Here w,- hnd the Rev. Franciscan Fathers: m a 
neat convent, built on the site of the houses of Joseph of 
Anmathea and Xic-odc-mus. Near the entranc^ to the 
church dechca. d to the saints, there is a ..mail .h.pH 
winch was fom>erly the workshop of the saints, and in 




whiih th» mir.'uuli>u» (rucifix now kipt in the cathedral 
of I.iuca. in Italy, ih Haicl to have hren ma«lc. 

MrivinK on a^am wo iun>c to Lvdda, a typicol l.^ 
hammctlan town, m which much activity i* displayed. 
It waH in this town that St. Peter, thr A|»o«tlc, miracu- 
lou«Iy cured Entas, who ha<l hw-n i-iyht y«ani in bed sick 
of the palHv, (ActH IX.» It was here that St (m>rKe was 
born After his martyrdom at Nic«)media. the IkkIv was 
bn>UKht here for burial, and a church was erected which 
has commemorateil his name. The churci: was afterwarrU 
destroyed l>y the Saracens. 

We now take enir def rture from I.y.ida, that quaint 
old town, with a history and memories that entitle it to 
the Kreatest respect. Journeying alonj; we pass through 
the memorable valley of Ajalon, which is considered a 
Kattway to the mountain region, and then over the 
Judean Hills to the most interestinji city in the world— 


We are approachinjr Jerusalem from the East Over- 
powered by emotion and profotmdiy "truck with awe we 
enter it through 't. Stephen's Oate. Tr the Christian 
cvcr>' step here is indeed holy ground • quicken our 

steps in the direction of St. Anns Chur -a harmonious 
edifice of one cast, a work of the Romaj. sque style of the 
first half of the 12th century. Consulting tradition about 
this shrine, we find it was here where she saw the light of 
the world, she of whom Satan had no share; it was here 
where Mary conceived without sin: where she was bom. 
where she wa brought up; she who was predestined 
to present us with the Saviour of the world! We fall 
dow on our knees and thankfu'ly admire the mcrcv 




.n« |K„„t or our Hulvafon, •• O Holv Jondum J| 
Ann.«>.. - () hl„«.., ..,«,,,, ,„ ,,„„„ ^,^. ^ 

that ,h..u vou.h.«r.. to prav for «h »t th. ,hn,m. of ,hm| 
>»ho.c. S.,n thou ha.t o,„,, a,ul ^K.rn ..f „... „c,,v' 

St. Ann'n Church, .frruwiom. 

In Jon,sa!em. and ah„ut to visit the plac-.-s of ^jroatest 
h stoncal ! (Joi.otl.a. th. Via F)oloro a th 
Chun h of the Ho,,. Sepu.ehre an.l its tradit.onal .sa. ed 
1 nncs, the r.arden of (nnhsemane, the .Mount of Ohves 
and a -mp,,,, ^,^^,^j^ ^^ ^^^, ^^^^^.^^^ ^^ Jerusalem the 
lews V\ ai'i"" P'l-,- - t-^ ,. , •' "»^'". UK 

-^» •-. »^"»--o, .: .arK'c wall wliere the Jews repair to 


weeiHtn: alt itre within vu»y wttlkinjj untftiui'. Every 
rhapt . • the Pi>ur <if«|KN ha>i hcrr it* «rttin){ ; rvrry 
foot c vM'iiin.l ia i.lrntifif.| with th«« Jkriftuns. What a 
rhanK. I. vnmv u,«m ihi- city, which waa once the 
glory ir jcrn <.f Isrw*!! (hitsirl,. an.l Hf:.r it Io.jk» 
Irvel;, ' I itumiKhty .fomiH, minari'ts an.l whitf ntonr 
^ ' s irmmintinjT tU|H>lai» ; hut inM.h- tlun- in a 

mil .notonv in tli. iitt!.- on.- an.l two storrv 

MiHujiw ,if .Itij^tr. Jr 

housos, with tlii-ir bulKintf .lomes, in the narrow, unclean 
streets, whose lo. ation you have -ften to puess at; m the 
untidy colored f^pulation. Thef is sa.lness pieture-l on 
the faces of the inhabitants and a Rloom hanging uver 
the whole place, which tells us that the curse of the Dei- 
cide IS still pressing heavilv u|x>n it. 

Rocki on « Pilgrlinjft. 
A poor Turkish peasant, on the Dardanelles, recently 
'■xphuncd to ievcrai prK»is who met him while taking a 

AM) Ttim.lOH TMR KMKHALO Itl.K _,,, 

" Whm- art. vmi K'tiinK? • h.- ank.-.I th-rn 
" Von.l.r tn ,hr ^-rrat ro, k «t tl... nr^ ,hore - 
•• An.f .b vou know th.- h.Ht,.rv of thai r,Hk?" 
No, ttut we w,ul.| Jikf to know it " 

' ni« unp ctjulil j{tt no 
fnrtfser on account of 
bfinjf tirnl, and n- 
mainol h«Tc on t h •• 
plain, inrlint-.l forwuni 
«« if sayinif Iuh f ravir,' 
Suri'Iy n»any of hj- 
c<mi|.anions must have 
rt-achtd thiiriroal, i\u]^- 
ina \,y tiif nunilxr ..f 
rotks Wf mi-et in the 
hills of Ju.k-a, huti-vt-n 
at the tini,- of our Lord, 
Palestine must havv 
Ix-en a rocky, ihou>,'h 
fertile I a n d. hecausi- 
Satan said to Him; 
' these ro. ks to 
become bn-ad." 

A Mohammcdan'a 

It is not unusual to 
find parents in the Holy 
Land who promise in 
case of the convale- . „ , 

A .Moh«iiii,„.,ian and hif ChiM 



scence of their children to clothe them for a time with 
the Franciscan habit in honor of St. Antonv A 
Mohammedan in Jerusalem made this promise in 
^vor of his little son. .-d behold, the child recovered 
He hastened to the Franciscan convent and asked for 
a habit for his child. The Father Guardian deemed 
It advisable to deny his request, thinking ,t improper to 
have the habit of St. Franci.s worn by the child of an 
infidel and told the man that in his case the promise was 
vo,d^ With this answer the latter was. however, not 
satisfied, and obtained the coveted dress elsewhere Thus 
Jerusalem had the extraordinary spectacle of seeing a 
Mohammedan child wearing the Franciscan habit in tes- 
timony of his father's devotion to St. Antony 

This pious custom could be imitated to some extent 
as much as practicable in this country-. Instead of cloth- 
ing their sick darlings with the Franciscan habit, the pious 
mothers might give them at least the chord and medal of 
bt. Antony, promising to let them wear the Seraphic 
ivery a certain lengtn of time and to say a dailv praver 
to the Saint in their behalf. ' ' 


p ^^J^!^^*"^ >"^«^J««» ^^ take the six mile drive to 
Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus. The road -s skirted 
on either side by fields of grain and rich vegetation, and 
the terraced hills are replete with olive and fig trees 

Wo are now on the ground sanctified by the footsteps 
of Saint Joseph and the Blessed Virgin, Mother of God 
and by the birth of the Child Jesus, whose Name has' 
given a world-wide fame to the little town of Bethlehem 
and made it one of the holiest and most renowned spots 
in the world. 


From the Bethleheni of to-day we can have some little 
Idea of what it was long years ago. for the scenes, in all 
essential respects, are the same. The present population 
IS 6000. among whom there are .,.500 Catholics. The 
people are administered to bv both the Franciscans and 
the Fathers of the Sacred Heart. The Sisters of St 
Joseph and the Carmelite onler have charge of the con- 
vents m which the children are instructed. 

It. the east of the city stands the star of our faith, the 
shnne of which we ,lreamed in the days of our childhood. 

The Dead Hea. 

the p ace which is one of the great objects of our dailv 
thoughts. Before us there is a great assemblage of edifices, 
but the two that interest us most are the Church of the 
Nativity built by Constantine the Great and appropriated 
unlawfully by the Greeks. an,:l St. Catherine's Church of 
the Franciscans. From both these churches a passage 
leads to the sanctuary proper-the Grotto of the Nativity. 
This Grotto IS of ample size, and is mysteriously illum'i- 
nated by the light of silver hanging lamps and tapestried 
all over with red silk damask, At the eastern end of 



the Grotto stands an altar, and below its slab is affixed 
a bnlhant white marble plate, which is continually 
Illuminated by fifteen hanging lamps. Into this plate is 
mserted a silver star with the inscription round it reading 
thus: Hicdevirgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est."- 
Here Jesus Christ was bom of the Virgin Mary." and 
lower still, to the right, is the Chapel of the Manger, most 
gorgeously decorated, and worthy of more than a passing 
g^ance^ From Bethlehem visits can be made to the 
Dead Sea. Jordan and Jericho, in one and a half days by 
carnage. ' 

Returning we will retrace our steps through the wil- 
derness of Judea. and through Bethanv, the town in 
which Our Lord so often sought repose after the labors 
of the day. He: 2 also Jhe many traditional sites may 
bo visited: the house of Simon the leper: the tomb 
of Lazarus; the home of Martha and Mary Then the 
ascent will be made to the summit of Mount Olivet where 
a grand view is obtained of Jericho on the one side, and 
of the Holy City on the other. 

We are back in Joppa. the city of gardens and orange 
groves, and. leaving we will follow the Mediterranean 
coast to Beyrouth, the chief seaport of Syria, and a town 
in which European manners have- the greatest possible 
sway. During a sojourn here we visited the bazaars 
the modem town and gardens, and even the Turkish and 
Greek factories fcr milling and winding silk were of great 
interest. ^ 

From Beyrouth we go by train to the oldest citv in 
the word-Damascus, a city in existence before 'the 
days of Abraham, having been founded bv a great-grand- 



son of Noah. Damascus is the Capital of Syria, and occu- 
pies a site of singular beauty on an elevation which is 
2 .00 feet above the sea. The River Abana intersects 
the nty. and is the life of the whole place. It supplies 
the houses and factories, and converts the sun-dried 
desert into a garden. The view of Damascus from the 
summit of the Antilil)anus is superb. 

Continuing our excursion we visited the bazaar, 
which IS among the best in the East; the rug factories 
which are the finest in the world; and were wrv much 

— ■"•i. 

lieneral Vipw of Danmncus. 

Charmed with the general appearance of the old citv whose 
history is lost in the mists of its years. 

Taking up our journey we 'are steaming towards 
Tripoli a pretty town ranged in three amphitheatres on 
the hill of St. John, where the Dere-Bachi falls in admir- 
able cascades and in three divisions, whence it derives 
Its name, " Triple City." 

Alexandretta and Latakia are the names of the 
towns we visited after leaving Tripoli. These towns owe 
their importance to the great market of Aleppo with 




Which they are connecU by a road over which long cara- 
vans of camels and mules laden with stuffs and carpets 
of world-wide reputation are continually passing 

Contmuing we come to Messina, which possesses 
many Greek and Roman ruins. 


Our next stop is Lamaca. a town in the Isle of Cyprus 
with Its thousands of sepulchral caves which have earned 
font the name of "City of Tombs." Then comes the 
rocky island of Rhodes, whose ramparts are one of the 
most remarkable monuments of the military architec 
ture of the r4th century. And now we are in Vathv the 
pnncipal port and the capital of the Samos Island sur- 
rounded with famous virieyards which furnish the well- 
known wine Continuing our coast journey we are soon 
m Smyrna, the greatest seaport of Anatolia, whence im- 
mense quantities of oriental products of everj- descrip- 
tion are shipped to all parts of the world, including the 
raisms and dried figs with which all are familiar 

This city was founded in iioo P.C.. and has histori- 
cal memories galore. It is the recognized great market 
of Turkey m Asia and is well supplied with mosques and 
minarets. Its bazaar is neariy always filled with noisy 
crowds. A splendid view of the coast and the surround- 
ing country is had from Mount Pagus. The different 
tribes and nationalities one meets in a trip through this 
section of the worid give an indescribable charm and 
picturesque variety to the journey, often helping one to 
over ook the inconveniences of travel aad forget the 
Winding dust, the dirty dirt, abominable smells and the 
loathsome vermin.-the usual array of drawbacks to travel 
m all iiastcrn countries. 




From Smyrna we proceed to Constantinople. This 
city >s built on seven hills like Rome, extends along the 
Bosphorus. the shores of the Golden Horn, and is the 
proud and picturesquely beautiful capital of Turkey. 

There is much to see here mosques, domes, monu- 
ments ," Kreat numbers. Anions the most interesting 
mosques is St. Sophia, which was built at a cost of Tchcrajjan Serai, the chief of the imperial 

View of Hnophoruii, Cnn.itantinriple. 

palaces, is a building of immense size, of marb' of a 
luxury and magnificence which is unexcelled in all -, irope 
and almost surpasses belief. The bazaar at Constan- 
tinople ranks next to that of Damascus. Visits were 
then made to the museum and the Genoese Tower In a 
nutshell, we may say of Constantinople that it is florid 
in architecture, gorgeous in color, and imposing in the 
position ix holds between two continents 



Hvfore proceedinK to Athens our stoamer sailed up 
the Hosphorus to the Black Sea. which is considered the 
most .lehKhtful and en.joyal.le sail out of Constantinople. 


I-eaving Constantinople we quictlv proceed through 
narrow channels, and after passing the inland sea of 
Marmora follow the coast to Salonica. an imrK,rtant 


t- *• 

' i \ > ir 

I'worama of C.nMantinople ,nd Bosphoriw. 

town in Turkey of Europe. It holds a prominent posi- 
tion at the end of the Macedonian Gulf, and contains a 
great number of monuments which date from antiquity 
A httle further on we come to Piraeus, the port of 
Athens, and our ship dropped anchor in the Roadstead 
Piraeus of the present day is a modem town in appear- 
ance with wide and regular streets, beautiful and spacious 
buildmgs. large squares and parks. But wc must not 



tarry here. There is a carriaKo. let us take it. and drive 
to Athens, the capital and largest city of Clrcece. In 
three hours we found ourselves driving through the streets 
of the ancient city, which grew up around the Acropohs ; 
and contains, besides a palace and government buildings, 
a splendid cathedral, a university, museum and a num- 
ber of schools. 

The Athenians were at the summit of their national 
glor\' when they de!ivere<l themselves from the t\Tanny 
of the Persians. Then it was tl at thev gave expression 

Port of Pinrua, (Jrrerf. 

to their tastes, which were naturally good, and that the 
liberal and fine arts flourished. During this reign of peace 
Pericles adorned the city with temples, theatres and public 
buildings, and his friend Phidias, the great sculptor, added 
the statuary which made them the admiration of every 
beholder. It was then, too. that the famous Poly;/notus 
and Myro painted; the friends of the students - Sophocles 
and Euripides— wrote; and, in the years which followed, 
there was born to thcin the celebrated Socrates. Plato 



gardens of hit own name. 

Jcnc. the Htatue. of Mercury an.I of Hercules to rcpre- 

Ta h of T , "'7'^' ""' •"«^""''>- ^^»- the 
Kath of Alexander the (Ireat Athens suffered many 

humiliations. Wars followe.l nn,i ^ ' 
roiiowed. and emperors oppressed 

hor. but none with the severity of Vespasian Her 
•sorrows were turned into joy under Adrian, who became 
a great benefactor. Marcus Antonius also held a high 
place m their esteem. 

centunes. It was at her fountains of knowledge that 
Horace received his in.pres...s: that Marcus developed 
his ove for philosophy. It was on Mars Hil, that St 

wL su^ltrif:"^ ^"'^""^ ^''' ^" ^^°^- that 
was sublime. After an extended period of peace .'was 

besieged bv Alaric. saved by Minerva and Achilk. Z 



foddcM and the hero. BciieKcd axain by ScRurui Leo who 
w;w unable to take her. iihe fell to th^ nuns of Marquis of 
Mont«errat and !«urrendercd. Her fortunes now were 
many and varied until she fell into the hands of the Turks. 
Athens is known as the homo of the scholar, in which 
one delights to renew his ucquaintantc with the history 
that entwineth its ruins. 

l)»ncr III thp il'Ku(unea, (! 

In Athens both historians, antiquarian.s and artists 
will find plenty to rivet their attention. Let us ascend 
the Acrojwlis and have a peep at the marvellous remains 
of ancient art which still constitute the greatest ornament 
of modern Athens, Firstly, there is the marble pillars 
of the Parthenon, sparkling in the sun, as if in rivalry 
with the snowy crest of the distant but also visible Par- 
nassus. Tlitii there is the site of the Minerva of Phidias; 



the Emthcum. with the CVcr..,.,um and the of the traUiticnal Tree «nd Spn„K: the wall, 
of K.mon the I'e.|.,t«U ..f M.nerva-HyK.,. the .mpr«ing 
re,n«mH of the renowned Propyl^-a. the Temple of \,ke 
Apteros. the O.Joon IIerode« Attuu« famed f<,r iu ceaar 
ro<,f; l),onvm.u. Tluatre (Theatre of l*aahu«). with it* 
wonderfully prtserved »eat« in »tu. .latin^ hack to the 
t.rne of th.. Kmijcror Hadrian, or first half of the s..cond 

A Kiver Henu>, in Alh«i., 

n ma.ns of the columns of the far-fa.ned Te.nplc of Zeus- 
O y„.p,s, the Kate of Hadrian, interesting from the well 
preserved mscnpfons referring to the nties of Theseus 
and Hadnan; ' Mars Hill." the site of the " An:opaKos 

Pa J r h';, Tv'^'t "•'' ^'^" ^■•^•^•^ ^' ^he Af;;stle 
Paul, the H.II of Nymphs, the slopes of which cons^t of 

rock-cut house fm.n.latinn- stairs -• f 7 

' ^^sjrs. cisterns and water 

»NI>T»mo.',i,| TIIK KMKH Mil 1*1.1, ^, 

nvK. tn. ()I,| .\th.-n.«n ||ou. ■ of A« thr ^roat 

-TV .1 „,onu.„..„t. rta„U.„« th.- roa.l wf.,, ,,,, ,. C-.j „ h 
eh. I».nath..nau St«.|.un, ..xcavatcl f.v (,n.tor U.„ ^u ' 

HK of marM., ij... ,.,,„,, „,^..^^^^^.^ ^ ^ 

Ttw Hla.|„„n. Aihrjp^- (irr-,,. 

or the spectators, the Athen.un An ha-ol.^iral Museum 
I>. fe^hlK-manns Museum of Ant.,uuies 

AtheL "'' ""' r""' "^ "^*' *''^"-^'^- '"•«''"res of whuh 

>ti iquaiud that of Anciont Greece. 


Greece is p., turesque and deh^htf,,!- 

dern and charming Capital w ^ ' " '""' ^ "'°- 

''■ ^t^n^-rary is long and we must keen nn .u '"' 

*.th the sweetest souvenirs 7th^T . '""'" ^ 

''""^^ of the happiest honrs spent 


•» AlHOB* TWO (-nWTlMKNTlt 

in Athtnii. *fv rmbarkwl for Pntran, the iwwt imjHjrtant 
■*ai>i»rt on ihc wmtrm ro<mt of (irrrtr. 

I'atrtw IN at the mtranie of the Corinthian Gulf, 
which, owinK to the i aniil c ut throuKh the famouM iithmun. 
now ofTefH the nhortiHt «•« r..ule between Itttiv and 
Athens On the opjxMnte Mh»>re \» the town of Mimto- 
loniflu, where Bvnm breathed hiri luitt when he came to 
help (ireece to recover her Uln-rty. 


3E<».|.iBic«l (iitnlvii, l'h«l»riin. Urarw. 

A short stay. Captain says we must make time. 
Zante is but a short distance, and is famous for its trade 
in oranges, lemons, olive oil. dried currants, but it, too, 
soon fades from view. 

We are now sailing past the coast of Epirus. with 
its memories of Pyrrhus, and about to enter the pretty 
blue waters of the Ionian Sea. which m.ans that we are 
within a short distance of Corfu. Corfu is the most 

northerly of the Io„.«n [«U„cl.. «„.| ,ik.. th. ret of that 
«r..up u m««„t«in«u.. Ft in the r>rin.n«^ town, how 
rx.r. and hu. « population of about .,.o<k,. Pr„,„ jui 
K-at he.«ht a, th,- .« ,t alTor.l. a «,.,nou. v..w of 
U. r..rtre«K.,. annent t,^p,,.. „u, convent,, prntv v,ir.«.. 
«m .cK,k.n« .nto iu vaHcy. of ,uxuna„t v.-Ket«t.«n, one 
«.. fijf-. or«nK«, .,„. «„a olive, in grrat almndanc. 
After an .n,.,vaM<. |«u«. ir Corfu w. mc.vetj ,„ward» 
Brm.Ju,. where *. .„.|ed our ...1 and took the tra.« ,or 


Our cr,n:.- «|l thmugh w^i iiUen-stinK. W,- en- 
Se. h.T' "T ''"' *"" '-^'"-'^"'•^ the town- and 

v« o^ra ' rr'"" "^ "'■ ''' •"•-''•»•'"*'' «' »h. 

T u : "' "'"'' "' ^*'^"^''"'' "^ "«^'h amuM-ment 
We ha,| l.,n .n.-km,: ..n, t«. wr arr now makm»,. and jud^n, f.,., ,,.■ .k kin, of th. car. ZlZl 
breaking a record, if there u any on this Une. 


VVc are now in Rome the Eternal City! anri 
c«l.d at the AnRlo American. To me it ,r 

reahzation of a long. Wautiful and cherished di 

Let us endeavor to move alwut the Eter ■ I = V 
with ca.,e, so a.s to become definitely acquainted .>'l 
omc of .t, wonders and the mo,t important points .. 
intere.,t withm its hi.storic walls. 

It is Sunday, and the afternoon of a sultry day in 
July. no particular place in view, we 7aunterJ^ 
a^onK unt. we came to a square which f,ore the name of 
P.azza del Popolo. Hailing a vettura we drove along 
and up a wmdmg road beautifully hemmed with nta.ui' 
I .> and shrubs m bloom. It led to the summit of the 
hdl known to the ancient Romans as CoUis Hortorum 



" Hill of r,ar(k-n.s." At present it is a pleasant resort for 
the people of Pome, tilled with ohjeets of interest relating 
to by->jone times. Continuing' our drive we reaehcd the 
parapet at the summit and obtained an exquisite view. 
Above us is a cloudless sky: beneath us the magnificent 
panorama of the city and the Campagna. 

CJlorious scene! one glance at thee moves the dullest 
soul, and causes him who knows thee, even imperfectly, 

A Lake .Scene in Home 

to fall under the charm, the indescribable sptll of thy 

A short distance down, to the right, to the left, one 
sees domes soaring away above the groups of buildings; 
every big building which is not a church or a convent 
is a barrack, or the house of some religious community 
which has been expropriated into a barrack. Every street 
is ali\'e with the uniforms of the two armies, that of the 
Pope and of the King; and here and there may be seen the 



cockades, feathers and swords brushint,' shoulders with 
the monks garb of brown, black or white. Frequently, 
too, you see innumerable ecclesiastics from all nations 
marching two abreast in the distinctive costumes of their 
respective colleges in soutans and bands of multi-colored 
hues and sisters from many communities, in whoso fresh 
faces you see purity and faith shining softly and steadily 
out in the ..lidst of a cold world of p.-ssimism and corrup- 
tion, and finally beyond the city, in magnificent splendor, 

Interior of .St. i'liul's, Home. 

rises St. Peter's- Rome's prouaest boast; the treasury 
of the world's art; the fountain of Christiantiv. 

How pleasantly the hours pass by in the presence 
of such a varied scene. We would linger h^re and con- 
tinue feasting on the landscape, but the afternoon sha- 
dows are beginning to fall; the sun which has brightened 
the day is gradually sinking behind the hills, thus wrap- 
ping up the picture in the soft clouds of night, and the hour 



be.n« advanccJ we must return to our respective shelter- 
mK nooks for the Next morning, in company 

hu ch of Samt S.lvestro in Capite. on Piazza Silve tro 
biultm 756-767. ™' 

Here we said Holy Mass at the altar that contains 
the rehc of the head of St. John Baptist The other rel" 

Church „f the ll„|y ivj 

'lily. Home. 

in this church arc the head of St <<,-n. . 

bodies of Popes SS ' °^.^'-^>'^^"'^^^''--P°P^'. andthe 

Tarcisius fVT ^'"">-^^'"^' Zephyrinus and of St. 

larcisius, the bov martvr nf tu.. 01 , ,. 

Frnn. u ' ^^''■"■''^'*^ Sacramcnt. 

From here wc vis.ted tin- Church of St. Peter in the 

^2. v^.e:r;zr-;. -- ?-■ -- 



bratcf! Shhno <,J the Virgin „f tlu- Matrrnity, I'iazz;. Xa- 
vona, Amicnt Circus of Domitian, Fountain of Trovi. 
passing the- Kind's Palair on the t^uirinal Flill Rospin- 
liosi an.l Harlurini Galli-rv, Chun li of the- Capuchins an.! 
Cemc-tery. fiaths of DicK-k.tian (now St. Man- of tlie 
AnKds), Baths of Caracalla. Chur-h of St. Petor in (hams, 
the Colosseum, (ioI,lc-n Housr of Wt., Tc-mpic of \\.„us 

liitriincp to tl,i- (ianl.'ii. 1!. ,.•.,.■. 

and Roma, \ui .Sacra, Triumi^hal Arch of Constatitmc-, 
the Forum. Circus Maximus, Api)ian Way, Arch of Dru- 
sus, St. Sc-I.ast^an C.atc. T(.ml) of Cacriha Mctclla. Cata- 
combs of St. Sebastian, St. Paul outsi.jc the walls. Cloister 
Pyrami.I of Cams ( Vstius. Aurilian Walls, of 
Vesta, Temi)le of Fortune, Horatio's Bridtje, Cloaca 
Maxima. Sacred Islan<l in the Tiber (now Island of St. 



C*.sar W.S kill...,. aL, ^'^^ T ''''"''• ''^'^ "''-- 
ami st-tiH. of P„rn,Hy tli.. Groat. 

f'oliiaaeuii., I{,„ 

•""". •■Ave Homa taL.n Lt-t*"?""" *■»'"'» 
"Jack to the d.m mvt]„ „f l„J '""""■>■ "•"'h'-s 

^.<i^- are „ta„d mo„„::; ' 7„'«- ^^"^ «— on eve^ 
wtnes. of her fo^er g^eatneL "' "'"''' ""'^ 

On Tliursdav, Julv ^rfVi ,. 

- J"iy 25th. we were summoned to the 

i I 

^r T»»"Ni 

AVD THROUr,,, THE EMERall ,slk ft 

Miss Morril, and mvs.I ' ," ,•,'''? "^'"" ''^"""-• 
visits to St Pctor'. !; , "'■"'■■ '"•"'^- ^'•-l"'nt 

'''*■ "'"""" •■"""■' ami Environs. 

Of yold and ardu-s of precious ,sc.,tin,s Wi ,L , 
oppressed hv the LTandt-.r f .. ' '*'''' °*'''-'''^ 

--'s.iv surpasses t,H v Jes ^ -^'"'"''"^ ^'^^"•- -'"^^ 
shrank awav into .it TT "' ''"^^'^"•^'tion. we 



After the usual formalities had been dis,>ensed. we entered 
the door at the end of the n^ht colonna.le, and having 
passed the Swiss m puturesque uniform found 
ourselves in Papal territory. 

We ascen.l the first then the secon.l. third and fourth 
.tate sta.rcases. the walls of which are a.lorned with works 
of art. and turning to the ri^'ht alonj; a jfor^eouslv 

C; „f .St. .AmiH.. witl. .St. IVli.i .,. 1(„„„.. 

decorated hall, we are admitted to the reception room 
which adjoins that of the Holy Father, and in which' 
he received us. 

The Vatican is a world in itself. Even those who 
have visited it can form but a very insufficient idea of its 

Pope Piu. X. 

No one who has been admitted to audience with the 
Holy Father has said other than that he is one of the most 
approachable of men. When in the past people used to 


te <hc- only .„„„,,,. A„a ,h,.„ ,„^, „,. „,^^ J;' '^l 
t,oocines>. In J,o<|,|y acvoniplisbnunts I.u 

Hi- Hi)liiir», I'lipe^i'iu^ X 

has vigor of limb diunitv u, 1 • ir i 

...Sins an., op™ ..„„„,;:,'" {C::^;. f"-;'"- ™- 

God for his p™„|, ,, p , ";' ' " '■' '""°'^ rtoson l,v 

Peter a„a . ^he":,,..:;.:":; t:^.:", T-' °' 



perod HO juHllv bk.n.lo.J. that prevents the other from 
oxaH.d.n« its ,,ro,..r fK.u.ulH. II. know, hew to ronciliaU. 
with mo.lorution; how to moot the m.«t olmtinato pcrw. 
veranro with the o.ui..,t fl.-xibihty. Hi, hmRuaijc. i, copi 
OU8 an.J elevated, his .....timents his v.„.e sweet hi. 
act.onn noMe un.l full of ,h«nity. He is ever)- inch a Pop« 
It w.M hy his ufT.f.Ie and obh^ing hehavior, hi. muni- 
fiieme ond «..nerosity his prudence and viifor of admin- 
.str«t.on. that he Kaine.l the affection of the p^-ople uf 
V.nicc an.l revolutionize.1 the hfe of that uniquecifv It 
^^as 1 • .Xcessive };.H,dness combined with his love for hi. 

native Ian if that 
led imite.l Italy to 
believe that its en- 
ormities would bff 
condone*! and it. 
plausible pre- 
tf-nsions ncoijnized 
once he ascended 
the t h r o n e. In 
their ignorance, 
little did thev 
reckon on their 
man There was a 
motive in his 
action, after his 
'.lection, when he 
chose to be the 
successor of Pius 
IX., in whose reign 
was committed the 
atrocities which 
kept him in prison 

»wi»» Gittnl, ill the Vntican. Home. 



unj rhe «,cnlc.^...H which .Hv..u..| h.m ..( hw p^.trimonv cf 
Peter. With alt \m f.,r«,v,n« nature h.- ...ul.J not n- 
.uKniic thf toncliti„n „f tl,,,,^, brouK'ht alwut hv tho 
rapine and villainv of m a,««tatv Sunhnum kini;. The 
key-note of his musion wus an<l is. ' To rrst.^rf <.ll thinur* 
«n Chnst." an.I a lunnnous .xplanation of it foIUmt-.l in 
his hrst cniyili(al, 

His countrymen an.I their frien.lH in Frame took e^- 

St. IVlrr'n an.I thi- Vniiimi, |t,„„... 

ception to his position. b..gan to assa.! him with the most 
vile epithets: l.ut sublimely impassive to the unmente.l 
attacks upon his cvaltc-d person and the members of his 
clergy, he continued to show the tenderest solicitude for 
the happmess of even his rebellious children These 
attacks were followed by a nefa-ious campaign in which 
the revilers of Catholicity took a prominent part. Even 
now we read daily of some abomination oerpetrated 


ACROM TWO mvTijjgjjTs 


lurmrrH an.| H.nht-n, who ««.«• the ihortcomin— 
o» the ivstcm of th- n,.., t. u ■noncominp 

censure the bw!.,,n..«. of ,he rMbblc. ,„ the anb^ 
Chr..r.n„ behavior of aH.oci«tion. ^hc VCh 

Z 1 Vrt '"^ deadly encm... „ow ...nK, „7w 
•«^ritl>. are ^M^mg attondo.l to hy Pio Docimo wh, Z,v qu^l.ficd to uphold with honor t^ZZjl 
"Rhts of t.. un.vor.», Church. Nen .'oH X 
-^brate hu jaccrdotal Oc.den Jul.jc.. and eve v dl 
monnrafon of m.nKled K.val.v and affection Thotn 
h.m on that ounpicious o<'ca«ion will be ^n 


After visitinK the places indu-..-.>d as star attra. 
.ons , ,„, , ^,,^,,.„^.^. ^^ ^^^ friend wo; 

pZ' ;\:'"' """^>' ^''^^ -"^ »h-"«h Aqui a 

thoM- balmy m..l-summ..r morninKs ,n luK- th 

t..>^H a .„,., , ,_^^„^ 4t:.;::ta:'i sr 

y «.... a quartett. whom chance ha.l thrown to' ther 
.n Rom ,ff .,.^^,^.^ ,,^^^^^ an , protession l;; 

yet the hours sl.pped ,, ,„ .j,^.^.^^^,,^. ^ J^^ 

som.^.ood anKe. must have n.arked the hour that bro , 
«s ^o,y together. VVe were friends, we became 
greater friends; and merrilv thn ..f» 'Jtcame 

merriiN the afternoon went by. in 



)nkvn ami tttU'«. until our train risbf.l iiuo Fl«)n.ncf. 
At thf .<ttatii>n wr tixik a ratriiiijf a^ f.,r jw» the hotel. 
I rtmi-mlKT tht- ol.l |,a< k, the fat .Iriv.r, with the hi«h 
h«t an.l hit «»f a <iKar. and the .xpn^Hion «in his Min- 
burnt |)hi« Kvirv move that wan ma.le; evi^y imuJent. 
how.ver frnial; .verx )«ene alDn^ the way m nf»w Iwfore 
me. un<l in the of mv xani turn .in.l 
I <lo wontler if the metnhent of that harmonioun <|uartette 
an »'v,T aH museful f thcwe happy hour* u* I am to-niKht, 

OinHry ii( ( l>ir<>n«-, 

I have a quill hut no colors to paint the lan.lscapes 
of that journey, .so I shall pnKeed to make the a.(,uajn- 
tance of Florence. • The lily of the Arno," a city of 
exceptional beauty; a little ] aradisc. known as the 
home and centre of Itali.Hn art. intellectual life and 
literatur-, and famous as the birthplace of those im- 
mortals, (iiotto. Dante. Michael Angelo and manv others 
who have biiKlucned the world bv their Konius Such 
writers as Ruskin, Haro and Grant Allen have written 





1^ 1^ 

1 2.2 
ill 1.8 






mSF •',' ■ Eo5l Ma.n Sl'»«l 

■fis ='jc^e5te'. New 'orw '460^ 'JSA 

^S ^'6) *ai - 0300 - Phone 

g^ "6) 288 - 5969 - Fa« 


A(R(iSS TVV. CMMiM vrs 

at In,,, h ahout, ts ..,tKut,nn>, an,| luv. s., to sp.ak 
toU-Kra,.I,..,l ,n s,„........,i„. ,,,,..r„„.„, ,,.,^ ,„,^^^,^.,,^ ,^_^ ^ 

tl.m.hy nun.h,n,| thnnMlv. .„,..„, ,h„... ,,,„. ,„,. 
niortalizfil Ik r natiif. 

UV t.H.k I.,, o„r .■.1,M.|,. in ,1,, |i,,t,.| M,,r,H.i„.,|, 

I. nil 

tlHArnu, :n,d n,..r |^.„,a San.a Trm,,.s, .■.„.! th..,u.. ,.n'.. 
'■'■'■'1-1 to v.^u tl,.. ,,ia...s of ,„„.,-..., an,l .... th.. .r.aMT.s 

'I'l.c Tril.,,!!.., l-ffizi CalL-ry, M,,r.M,e,. 

that arc. beautifullv housed in th. far-famcl (lalkTu-s of 
th. Lfh^i Palace, an.l its .xtonsion of P.tti Palace-, across 
the nycT Arno, spanned by the Ponte Vecehio; tl>e Cathe- 
dra! Santa Mar,a del Fiore. the eupoia of which served 
as a model to Michael An^elo for that of St. Peter's at 
Rome; the mosaic campanile „f Oiotto; the Baptisterv 
With Its famous bronze doors; the Churches of Santa 

AMI TIIU.>C,,n TM! I \t( iMt I> tsi (■ -■» 

* I 

en..,., S.-.nt,, .\!.,n.. .\,,v..ll... ,|,.. |.,,ii,,„, \-,,.|,„, .„„, 
th.' Stroxz, \>.,l.r: .M„h.,.l .\n...,l.,\ l,,.,,,,. ..,„i ,|,.. 
S(|ii;,rr Ml thr Si-nuri;!. wlinv ,, n..,,,,,,,,,.,,, ,,, s,A-.„i,,n,!.i 
H..,rU tlir s,„., wl„n- 1,. u„. |,un„,|, ,,k,, ,n,Mtl„ ,• l„,„s.. 
hrarnu; tlu' ins.nptm,,; ■ i|,n, ,... i,,,^,, ,,„. .j,^,,,, |„,^,^ „ 
It vva.s thr tirM hntnr ,.t D.nitr, Nvh., uith hH tn.n.l (.,.,tto 
Invc.i tlic so u, li. ,„„! t. w Irav, „ ,„,u w.tliu.n n ..nt. 

•Jianil ruii:il, \.-iiic.'. 


\enuc., -Oucrn ..t tin. AdriatK." Thr world's 
uni.,iu> city of marbk. palaces risin.t,^ i„ the sea Muilt 
ui)on a cluster of islets, m the lagoon c.f the same 
name, en tiie hem of the A.lnatic. Unlike other cities 
Its streets are canals, its carriages K'on.Iolas, an.l these 
silent •■ swans - slide with mar . elous swiftness an-l pre- 
cision, under the. powerful stroke of the graceful gondolier 

f ii 






.\^'t((ls^ l\\(i (1 i\TI.\ KN'TS 

'!■.■ -l.-.v was nnuunv; mf-. ihr ^;l„.,,nu,^- u h,„ our 
train n,ll,-l nun ih.. st;.t..m at Vm,, ... It u„. !.„, a sttp tO 
tiM .|.i.-.v ot tlu. (Iran,! Canal, an.l no .oon. r ha.l uv ..nt.n..i 
tl... «u„.!o|a than tins ,na,:;ni(u mt thurouu'hfarr w 
outlui..! in a Mazr o( ,1,. trie liyhts. 

What a (i.ani:.. trom tl... .livcTstli.-l, apr of tl 
country: Kv..rv,lnn« ,s so soft, so ,H.a...ful. so fas. inai- 
inu. 111.' l..autv of ,',. ,.,,„,., „„, ^.,,1,,^ ,,,. ^,^^ ^^.,^^^_^ 
tl... ass.,,.l.|,.,| ^-on.lolas. ,!„. „,l,al„tants u, V.^utian -'rev 



I'hv n.-.a<i< Hrj.lK.., 

— ail coml.ini. t.^ form a pi.turc wludi has a maKae .(IVct. 
To .k'scTihc it on., must nrcis paint from tli.^ margin of 
the water mark to hei^lUs the imaginr -n 
and then yraft its manifold attractions into the p re 
w.tlu.ut afifectinK' its ddieate beauty; something which 
IS impossible to do in this hurried sketch. 

However, the Grand Canal, familiar to the world 
through paintings, photographs and postal cards of all 


A.M> TIIMnr.ill Tin; i;\|| HAI I. Isl.K 

descriptions, .hvid.s \V.,ur. i„ „^ t..rtu..,„ .,,„rs... ,„to 
two un.qual i.arts, an-l ,. ,1,.. pruMp..!^-hfar.. for 
tratt'u' ainl plfa^tirc 

As wr on, an.l passrd s.v.ral lumdn,l ..(Irts, 
tlur,. ,amc tron. win-l.-u. arwl l.aKnni.s ..n nth.r si,lJ 
sw.rt strains „i unisu-. vvlui li tlir m .n.- and 
turnf.l thr C.rand Canal into a fairs land of tlir nielli. 

It was ahout S p.,n. l.cfon- wr na. lud the lU:m 
RiviiK.-. a liotrl cliarniinulv sitiiaf.^d at tlir wat. r\ , di,'-. 

re..,|,„E lMu,.,„„, St. Ma,k'- S,,„urr. V.-„ 

opposite tlR. L,d„, And tlu.n, attcr ^H-ttin,' s.-ttLdluv 
•strolled aloiiK the Grand Promenade and intr. St. Mark's 
Square, where thousan<ls -I' people ha.l gathered to hear 
the Imnd eo.u.Tt. The lar^^,. square, the huildinK's of 
princely architecture, the numbers of peopk- i„ , attire - 
all. with the electrical display, hrou.^ht forth encomiums 
which added a tinge of gilt to perfect picture. 
The next morning we returne.l to th.^ Plaza or Square 
of St. Mark's. This centre of amusements at night is 



thr Kftut rrntr.. of 1. .lav ; ...,.1 l^ tr. .,u.„t..,l l.v nt ,.,.,,,,1., Thr ...sf M.I.. ..f ,1,.. s,,u.,rr ,s oc- 
<"|m>.l ».v St. Marks (•atlu.iral ; ,1,.. north s,.k. is almost 
tnt.rdy tak.-n up |,y tlu- I'ro.urati.- Wrdnr an.l the 
•nKurat... Xu„vv; thtsr two hu.lihn^;s cnstitutitv,' the 
K"val I'alaci'. 

ContinninK' our |>ron„.na,ir alonvf tl... (Irand Catial 
Wf ol.tam a spl. m.nv from ih.^ Riallo, onr ot the 
thrfi-, an.l tl... most l..aut.ful hridu,. that spans it. Th.-rc 
ar,- upwanls of our luni.lri.l an.l t.fty small canals, win. h 

I' on s t i t u t f the 
\v a t !• r - 1 a n »• s 
throuK'li wIiIlIi 
pfojjlo ari' lon- 
vivfd to thf .jiff- 
tnnt (juartiTs of 
till' r i t y. .\o\v 
I li »' s I' sul)-ian;ils 
arc lik"\visL' spann- 
i'<I liy suhstantial 
bridals, so t h a t 
one finds in Vcnict- 
a modern city, 
with even road 
beds, and every- 
thing of interest 
that could be found 
in any city in 

Travellers who 
visit Italy \,i'l not 
be disappointed if 
they include 

A Small Cunal, \>iiice. 

■\\\> TIIHc.i ,.() 1,11 I Ml ,<u.l) IM.K g, 

Vnur,. ,„ ,|„.|r .tHHT.irs l-„|,k,. ,,tl,.r ,r, . . 1 

^ iiiiM lit 111 r 1 itiiw It ii.,, 

charm.sth.aar. us. KVM, Th.r.. ,. ...l-r r, i.s ar, ,1..., ..-, 
"X.T.iM. .. s,H.II uv.T th. of ,1... I,...utit,,| i,s ,„n.s aUoM ,nt..ns„n, M.l.,..t> ...r hours 
'>t stinly. 

_ An.l Ml oM.\ V.M. ,.r....,.rannnr ,t will I,., wdl to 

«"-natr.p l.> lauii.h t.,1,.. ,a,„.,u. L„l,.. as..a.l.ath.nK 
r-,.rt w.thin a short a,„l ahn,., ...,,„, ,|,„,,„ ,. .„■ ^,„, ^,,^^*; 

H«4fd on a GondoU. 

A Scotrh ia.l in a r.iiii.ary sc hool w.nt up with a .Iraw- 
l"K "f \cnKc. whah In. I,a,I just finishr.l, to sh-nv it to the 
master. Observing that lu- ha.l pr„,t ,i tlu- nanu- under 
•» -t ' tw.. ■• n-s •• (•• Vennicx- •'), th. mast.r saiJ. - Don't 
you k,.MV that there's onlv ono • hen ' in Vemce'?" 
'"•y ""^' !'<•" i" Venice! •• exelai,,,-.! youuK Sandy uith 
'YtuM.shment, •'In. th.nkipK they'll no ha., monv tl-ks 

111,.,. - f>o • 



We have seen oncu.-h .,f Venice, let us move on to 
1 inhia. 

Satunhiv. Auk. ,ud. at an hour that marked the 
in.ssmg auav ..f a sultry .lay w took our departure from 
^'•"Ke. An.l as the train movc.l out we turned to take 
a parting look at the cupolas and towers till the last trace 
an. ..ven sha.iow of the fair>-Hke cty was lost in the 
t^^.h,ht. liu. .ountry through which we are passing is 
an .mmense natural ,-ar.l..n, with plains an.l hills, moun- 
tains an.l valk, . an.l luxuriant vegetation. Fruit trees 
an.l VUU.S are m al.un.lance. And the landscape is un- 
change.1 for miles and runs on till we reach Pa.lua the 
picturesque little capital of a province which is traversed 
by several arms of the HacchiKlione. 




\Vi- lia\r nf»\v cutinil |»;ii|ii.i nt iitir.rsnv fanir. 
Arcurxl tli.' statHm thtn- is ni>thint; utlur than a f.w 
(lilapiilan.! lint. Is, so w." j.rn. .cI,.,! t.. tin. I .. plac wlurr- 
in wr ...ul.i IwuiK our hats an-l .all it \u>mv tor thf time 
of our sojDurn. Th.- t.uti is i.,o|,l,,| |,\ 40.000 inhahi- 
ta.its. an.! IS|,,| !.v a !al.\rinth ..f w.....!- 
Ian. I im.rsjKrsr.l with iakis an. I . hanninK rivuhts. 

It has narrow stmts Hankf.l with i<.w an a.lcs, whi. h 
KiVf it th.' appcaraii. .■ ..f a \ .ry an. i.nt pla..-. Tii.' 

'ITie Haiiilini .if St. .\nlhiiiiy .if I'li.liiu 

town, too, ha.s numerous attractions to otVer to visit- 
ors: the University, ereete.l in 1552; the Juris Basilica, 
erected in 1172-1219, in whiih there arc 300 alle),'oricai 
frescoes; the Lo^K'ia <lel ConsiKlio, in the front of which 
stands an ancient column with the lion of St. Murk; the 
Cathedral, a huildinj.' of the iate Renaissance (i55i-77) 
with an unfinished favade, and the Baptisterv, a graceful 
brick huildinjj of the 1 2th century; Ponte San Lorenzo, 
in which street is L ntes house; but the chief attractioti 


AM. niki.i ,.ii nil I ui M u i. i>,> ^^ 

'" ^'"" •^'"-"-... th. II ,... .., .. AntlH.iP. ,,| |..,|„, 

lH., kMMVM, as II San,...' , r.-.t,-! „, i.,. ,,.,' 
I..k.a ,..arl s. , ,„ .,„. r.,|.|>, ,|,. ,hnn.. ..f S, Anthuin ,' 
»,„„||v .,„„,...,. ..„., „„,..„,„,.,, vv„|, .|,„,1.,„, ,.|,„„ 
'""' •""lt.-.n|.,r...i tlo^.r, vUn.l, ,„,..r,„„u.|.. w„l, ,|„. 
tn-, an.! tra.Morm tl„ |... ..,„.„ ,„,., , |„,.,„,,,,| t,.,u.r 
Th.. ..xt.nur .., ,1... HaMli.a,. v.rv »„,..,nh , l.ut ,1.. ,„! 
t.-iur ru„ta,„s m.-.nv (>.■... ..s l.v artists „l ,.,„,w„ Th.. 

•11... Shru* ,rf S. »„,h.,„> „ ,.,.. c,.,!,..,!,,,! |',..|„ 

wals .f th.. Cappdadel Santo are ..mbdhsh..,! with nine 
'.Kl> rdu..^ (i6th ...nturv. n-prcsmtin,^ s...n..s from th.- 
hfc ot St. Anthonv hy Ja... Sansovino Antonio and Tullu. 
Lomhanio. Th.. I.on.-s of thr Sa.nt r..,,oM. l-.n-.a^h the 
altJir, winch is a.|„rn.-.l with manv vot.v.. tahU.ts The 
choir c,,,mi,ns twdv.. hronz. rdids ,f sul-j,-. ts tak.-n from 
llH. OM lestaiuont. Th- .Imm. has manv .hafn !:, whose 

CMl„„. an.! ««|K .r. ...vr-.l w,M, . mtm^ ,„ fr. I.y 

tl..' \.r,,n.M. artl.t. Air., hnr. ..,„l J... .|Ava,u,., an.| th.* 
S«n.„..-.rv,wh,.h .su r.....,u a.M,t,..„ ,., ,|,. . ,.„r. ,, ..,„. 
t«M.. M„m- a.l.n.ral.l.. w.,rks nf art Tlu- wl,..|.. ,.,ht,... ,h 
imnum.., »n.| i. >..rm..„nt.,| r.v>. a f..w.r 

Tl... sm, ha. srt. an.| th. A..u.lus Im|| |,a. 
lorth Its ,„,,I„.K amlutn ..v.t tia- .aim pla.n> t-. ih.. .Ijh. 
tant lulls. (•|,„„!s an. I.,^v..nn^r Kr„ luailv. ar.l „.. |,v 
om- fhv .ami!, ii^l.ts a,.,., ar ,„ tl..- I..,„us ... th.- ,K.asa,.trv 
All .^ n.,w still save that an i,u..,ni»». tnun i. w|.isil„u, in 
tin listantf. 

I'r. .ntly «,. hoar voir,.s. It .s a ,.,l«nrna«... Mark: 
Av. Mar.a S,..|Ia! the pil,;n,„> ;.r. s,„,m„«, a„.| th.- sil-nt 
«r.rts vihn thr.r .irv,, umal hymn. II.t.- th.v ,„„„■ 
the. iK-asantry of Italy, with La^'s thrown „v,.r their 
shoul.i.Ts an.! all of valises in thnr 
'v.n.l.nK wa> to tf.r Shrim- of • H Santo " \„,i 
n..w th.y have pass..!, an.l th.- last ol.| .,n.|.l.s have dis- 
apjHarctl la-hind th.- wall of a hu«.- .■on,-.,n that is to 
altonj tht-m s|.-,.,.inK apartm.-nts . th.- ni«ht. Mow 
this recalls oth.r s.rn.s an,| .lavs at the Shnn,- of St.- 
Ann.' (!.' H.auf»re. 

Thi-^; mr.rnin^j th.> snn rose up in a . lou.lless 
ht-av.n. an.l pour.,! an al.un.lan.t- of an-l spl,.„- 
dor ov.r th.- i.ttl.' Italian town, as if prou.l of tlu- r.alm 1... 
»h..n.- u,H,n an.l hr^-hti-n.-.I. Th.- scone was .-nliv.-n.-.| by 
the p..asantr>- wh.. w.-re on fcx,t an.l j^oinK in the direction 
of th. Church. It was th.-n .,nlv half-past five and hv 
the time we reaeh.-.l the Chunh and Shrine, the pilgrims 
w.-r.. well int.. their .l.-v.,tions. Oh. what pietv! What 
devotion! And how strange it seems to me that I should 

\\u TMHui .11 rn^ ruf ti M II ihik 


rv. r I,, hol.l « V . ,„■ l,k.. ih.x .. t.ili;r.m..i... to •' || S.,,,,.,' 
or Km ,.,m.,u,ShruM f Sf Ami. .n .., |..„|„.. ,„ j,., ,.„ 


From I'.,.|u.., .. r..,lu.,v i„urm v ..( mx I r. I.r,n«, 

you t.. M.l.u., tl... n.xi larK- , mir.- ..t «lu.h w i.r.. „, 
t«rr^ . ()„ tl,„ nrnf ,,. r.nlwav tr..v. rs... .. r.-i;..,,, f.„M„u, 
f'.r frutt tr.vs. ..Ik iulturt- an.| «r,..n ,t m im 
otlur, ,1... ■• lan.l ||„winK with «ml |,„n..v " 
Tlu- luurn. V t.v rail is int. r.-.tin^', r„r t',.- pU.., of vuru-.l 
iHautv >tu.I so tl.uklv th.a ..m- .an ^-o any 
•listanc. without Ikuij: fas. inaf.l J.v s.,nu- tun.|«. aj^- 
''I'! run, or v,lla,r inasant. Thr Itahans an- a U-autv 
oMi.K ra..-, an.l th.y hav a v.-ry Mnriuular vrrurat.on 
for th,. tr.asur.s of anti.,uitv .\|,K„, is thr rapitnl „f 
thf ann.nt r, r.ahn. with a |N,,.uIation of 
m-arly 500,000 It ranks n.xt to .\a,.|..s ,„ siz., an.l ,. 
thr wralthi.M manufacturing town ir; tl... .ountrv. It 
boa>ts an .x-iuisit.. Cothir .atlu-.lral an.l fortrrss. mKuu- 
Uon.ll an.l MunlKu institutions, puhli. s.juarrs Imrd 
with .-.lifi. .s, a iil.rary of manv th..usan.l volunu-, 
musfum and m.-.ny ,.uhii. l.uJl.linKs n.^tablf for the.r fine 
art hitnture. 

It was about 3 i.,m. w.u-n 01, r train rea< hi-.I i»s .Ii-sti- 
nation, an.l I will that I ha.l som. svn.ptoms ..f 
hunK'.Tupon m... \\\- „K,k up our aho-h- at th.- ,K>pul..r 
Hnt.l ,|.- la Franco, in d..s.. proximity t.. the ^r.-at Cathi- 
orai. a.-d .lin.d to our 

•Makinj; this our startini,' w h.-Kan hv visitinjj 
tlK' t aht-dral, which is on.- of th,- lar^.-st . hurc lu-s m th.- 
worl.l, an.l holds ah.rit ^o,ooo poopK-, Tlu- int.-rior ic 
162 yards ,n k-n^,'th. thi- transept .,6 yards i„ Ln-adth. 
tho facade 71 v.-inls in ».r,..,.i.i. 'ru 1 


M ktfs^ two . KN riN> \ r» 

l.n«h., th,. t.m.r ,r,o f.., .,(„„.. ,|,, ,,.„.,„.,„ 11... 
r.-.f. m.ui!. hi, ,1,, ,,„ ,., „,. l.u,M„.K'. ., a.|..r„,..| w„h 
.>M ,„...,;,. I.. ..n.|,|,r ,xt.r,..r vvul. „|.vv.,r.N ..» ,000 

;'""7 '" •""^'•'" ''''"■ "f"' '•' ».. "t.o... ,.„i .•,,Kn..lh l.v m.M.,,lii.lH Tlu uit-rior .s „„. 
pr.HMv. ,0 a .I.KT.v that |. marv.-Houv H..|o« tl... 
>U>mr „ ,h. M,l, San C„r|., M.,rr..„,.,. ornam.,.i..| «„|, ,.,|.| a„.| ,.w.U, an-l ..„„annn« 
"" '"•"'- "f «!..■ Sa.nt. All t-.un.t, Ms,t„„. .V.Ian ..r. 
nun i„ >,M n.l tlu- ,„ part ..t .1,. ,r timr in th.- Cath, ,|ral 
wlnrh I. fnrmt.r.l throuirhmi. tlu- worM f..r ,t. ar. hi' 
t.'tural UautN. (h.r i„ xt mmI wa. to • I'alazz.. .Ii 
Hr..ra,- l.tult f..r a J...u,l Coll.... l.v kn-dnn. .„ ,..,, 
SifH.- 1770 ,t l^ ihr Htat of th»- .}, H. ||.. \rtj 
an.l now .tylnl ,h.. Pala... of S. ,.„.v. Uiurs an.| Arts" 
It .onta.n. a hl-rarv of ,00000 voh,„,.., C.,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 
w v,s,t...| tlu. (lall. na V.itor.o K.nanu.l.., ,h. tn-st atfra.. 
tive Mru.turr of its k.n.l ,„ i:„r„,.,.. ,h.. Mus..., |.„hl,. 
Vi■^^uU. WHI, a .oil... turn .., ,.a.ntm«., iVrstan ru,s. 
w.-aiKms an.l anti.,iutus, th.' Ca.t.llo Storz.s... the 
nla.|..l ..f M.Ian Santa Mana .|. II.. dra.,.., a hri. k ..I.fice 
<•» th. ,5th cntuf oMta.n.nK tlu- cl.l.rat.-.l Last Supp-r 
of Uonar.l.; .la V.,u , Tlu- ,.,. ti.rt- ,,aint..l in ..ils on th.. 
wall (h.for.- ,4.,,,, hns lK-,„m.- nmn- an-l .nor.- -I.tu.-.l 
an.l IS n..w in th.- last staK'.s ..f .Urav San 
I.orinzo, tlu- ihunh in Milan 

A stay of a couple of .hiys in Milan will prow wrv 
ajfrn-ahU- to the stu.lent and si«htsi-.r. 

.iiK'ht srcn.- ft was ,, p.„,. a:. I .row.N had 
Katlu-n-l on tlu- I»laz.a Kmanu. !.• ,„ front of tlu- Catlu-.lral. 
lu-tro, who ha.l takc-n i<m> „nu h chan..-,l to nu-.-i a 
fru-n.l who was suffcrinK from a similar decree of intinKuy 
with tin- luirc of the vin,-. »oth st.K..l. shook hands, kiss.-d. 

AM> Tllhtii 1,11 t tl> ^ Vf w M n IHI K 


iii4tiiiM'<l tli< iiiurl.i.l ,,, ..t fli. .I.i'. .,,it.|'.. Mrturv; «'l 
Ihiv irr.H.ftilh luv;. tti. r .\. ...r.liru; .t» J.i..,f«, j.,n,.| 
an ifToft u, ritiM futru h.^.l ., «.,„„| .,„,| ., ^(,,^,1 
ttnir. t. n l».f|i|. ii. .trnuMtmnJ i»f tli, .|..i. 
lMt«>rH In rush, . I .,11 .irfii ..f ih, l.xw f,,n..tti,| l.\ ., trunk 
an.l ii Hii. k. II. M.Mihl ..rr.Ht I' 'mi» •h- . r.n\ | >ai.|, 
hattu' lit' 1^ .1 li.irml.s* r.lluw •irtakiiii; tui l;.\v." 

lint thv .x.jiiil,!,., .|ilirj..«i> ill lin..i , th. |,nv ihmMi.I, 
•avini; »|i.i! I' w.i^ >. mi p. ||„. ,,| ,„ |„^ ^|,,.,|| .„„| 
«nii-.<.n»plitf tti hi*,. v\hiih »iih|„ n.l. .| mi i 
hinylr l.utt.»n. Afti r ml.., trin.uiti;,' th. tir^J ||,x 
«»f .UHifuv in .lr.>> hr ri.M' to tlu- Mtuati-.n an. I ni..\..| m 
"•mpaiiv .,( hi-. .r^iNi^. M.anwhil. |a...l«i >■ r .tt.!.l, .| 
to hi. Uvt an.l fo|low»-.|. tli..iii;h tli<- .n.w.l, ,l.h\.r.,| 
;. 1.I..VV ..n th.- I.if ,ar ..f thi' .op, an<l laving his ii,«,.i 
lli> Irun.l, sat. I. ' (?oii)f with nu'. I'utro " 

A tussle cnsiu-.l 111 will, h hiliii.ts, liat> aii-i | 
iVvv until r«!..v.'.| l,\ a t!\ mu; . ..ntin«<nt. who 
in th.' pi. lur.s.|u.. uthonts ..f th.' law Th. st..rin ,!,af .| 
an.l th.- i;.ntl.' ni l.taiiis (.11 uih.h th,. in., of aiiiaf.ur 
tra^.'.lians who w, mar. hinij un-l.-r ...v.r to th.: fasino. 
wluTc till' Siirn-.r.- usuail\ niak.s a .lia>,'nosis ..f >u. || 
fxhildtions Thus th, trai;!-.,. «|. 


It.ih ina\ w.ll 1..- Htylf.l th.' i.|.al hav.n |..r the 
suninuT tourist. Its iM-auty .'ntitUs u to this sw.'.t ap- 
p. lation. Kv. TV rom.- tliroui,'h fh.- vountry has uniiinitiU 
attraitions to riv.t the att.tition. an.l th.' s. ,n.ry h.'i,'(,'ars 
lanifua^'e to .l.-s.-nhf. Iliri', tlur.' is^ zii^-zag 
mountains an.l vmlant terra.t's of vims an.l oliv.- tri'es; 
tlitTf, you sff a pi.tun's.jue jKjpulati.jn. an.l . h, stnut 
and walnu- -rovt^. el-.-., itc: hcsi-lcs. liuic i> th.- t-xhiia- 




t I 

artitiK an.l th.. .ountltss .It-Ii^htfiil vii-vvs. Xo w.m.ler, 
then, that tlu- tourist loves to linKcr and to trawl in 

On our train to-day from Milan to Genoa there arc 
hun.lreds of travellers. Some are fishing i.arties jjravi- 
tatinK towanls the lakes: others aiming to eomhine pleasure 
recui.eration and rest, have for their objeetive point tht' 
beaches and the coast. And all. though their circum- 
stances, characters and pursuits are unequal, seem to 
enjo.v the sublime and pictures(,ue landscapes that skirt 
the way. 

It was late in the afternoon when we reached Genoa 
the city of white i.alaces, the .superb citv. After lunch 
we took a drive to insj.ect and become familiar with its 
attractive features. 

Older in legendary history than f'ome itself, Genoa 
is as interesting as it is beautiful. The marble palaces 
on her seawar.l slopes are strikingly Italian in character, 
and the background of green hills display their charms 
to perfection. It has eighty churches, one .magnificent 
cathedral and several museums, each of which contains 
a splendid display of frescoes and statuarv; it has beauti- 
ful edifices, many of which may be seen along the Via 
Garibaldi, the Via Cairoli and the Strada Balbi. It has 
also magnificent palaces, once owned by the Geno..-se no- 
bility, and filled with valuable works of art. The Campo 
Santo or cemetery -the finest in Italy-with its unique 
illustrations of sculpture, is a point few will overlook. 

But Genoa la Superba is interesting to the people of 
America chiefly because it is the cradle of immortal 
Christopher Columbus, and to Italians, because it is the 
birthplace of Mazzmi, the great patriot. Here the great 
navigator was born about the year 1435 and began life 

AND TirR()U(;n tiik emkralk islk 


in viry luimhle ciroumstanet's. His fatluT was a wo')]- 
combir, and it is said was of illustrious descent. This, 
however, is imniatiTial, as the fame of the (hsioverer 
rested on his own ai hievcnients. It was from lure he 
sailed to Spain with his oHer of a new world to Ferdinand 
and Isabella; and Genoa has honoreil his memor\-. 
Near the railway station is a tine monument to Columbus. 


and in the Palazzo del Municipo are many relics of the 
renowned discoverer 

Notable among the environs are the Villa Palla- 
vicini at Pegli, with its beautiful gardens, the ancient 
Roman burial ground and stalactite grotto. 

Genoa is also the natural centre for trips to the Ri- 
viera, Nice and Monaco. 




The road from Genoa to Nice is l.c-autiful. But to 
those who sumnicT in Nice and Monte Carlo, scencrv alone 
IS not satisfying. They require something more' lively 
and interestinK the Klare of the Casino, the excitement 
of the wheel, the j-ame. This is what ma.le Monte Carlo 
and whi.t contmius to attrac t men. and all sorts and con- 
ditions of men women, too. 

Here are all the lu.xuries and pleasures of the must 
fashionable resorts, and they are not despised. 

Tlii> EnKli..h l'r(.riiena<|p, .Nice. 


After participating in the amusements alTorded bv 
the visitors at Monte Carlo, and visiting the Royal Palace 
of the I>nnce of Monaco and the Grand Cathedral with 
Its phenomenal collection of fine frescoes, etc etc we 
took our departure from the city alon,. the Riviera 'and 
erijo>-ed the matchless views of the sunlit Mediterranean. 
\U changed cars at Vintemigilia, a frontier town 
thence proeeeded to Genoa where we lunched. Leaving 



Grnoa Wf passnl thnnij^'h t!u' same portion of tlir country 
tliat Wf ha.l sttn a (()ui)1l- of .lays previous, aii.l growing 
a little tiffd of the long journey, ami lu-f.lkss of nature's 
loveliness, I fell into a deliiious sIunil.iT. from wliieli I 
was awakened by the voice of a youth who had rushed 
into our (ompartment. 

Fie was a vouns,' student from Cannes, who was ^joinR 
to Vienna to see his lather. It was his first trif) from 
home and he was naturally fearful of evervbodv. For 

.Xiicii'iit Monu.<tpry nf (/imiei, Sien. 

safe keeping he placed his monev in his sock, and would 
not dare assume the cross-legged position of an American 
tra%'eller, fearing tha. the man or men on the seat imme- 
diately opposite would turn up his trousers. l)are his leg 
an.l steal his little j^urse. He was comfortablv .seated in 
his compartment, when three or four Italians, who looked 
like bandits, walked in and sat down beside him. When 
they opened their lunch baskets he saw macaroni and 



wine; a^ain. his eye caught si^ht of a lonw stiletto. He 
Krew nervous, and seizing his little traps made out of the 
compartment to the sur|)rise ;ind astonishnuiii of the 
poor and i-noeent sons of picturesque Italy. "Ohl" 
said he. " they eould have killed me for mv monev and 
throw!) me from the train. May I !iave a seat here ? " 
" Why. yes; jjlace your valise on the rack and sit down." 
The lad was grateful for the courtesy, and spent a portion 

Caaino, Monte Carlo. 

of the afternoon sketching the group that might have 
murdered him. 

It was evening when we reached Milan, and after a 
change of cars the remnant of the day and night was 
spent on our journey to Lake Como. 

On the following morning we left Lake Como for 
Lucerne via the St. Gothard Pass. The railway skirts 
along the shores of the enchanting Italian lakes Lugano 

AM)TIIHor,;(| rilK i:\|KK.\..r> ISI.K q_j 

•n.l MaKKMori', an.l rtiuT«..s ..., tif s.„al. si.lf „f tlu- Mns 
into most iH-autiful scrms an.l a valUv of 
veKftat...n. Th,- ,n,.unta.ns an.un.I us are nnth.r n,.^K'c<I 
nor prenpuous. hut an- niajt-stir i,, tluir un-lulatiuns^and 
form a beautiful omeral.l frarne for tlu' little lake wlueh 
lies so j)eaeefully I)el(.\v. 

It was a Klorious and the whol.^ lan-iseape 
was ht u,. with a l.ri«ht sun. Fn.n, th,. ,n.,unta,n and 
•nil tops the watv eame rushing <lnwn, now l,reakin« into 
casea.les. and n.,v; foaming; in its rush hen.ath the rustic 
bruises that spanned the rivulets. Here the train sU.w^ 
down and we are afxmt to enter the jjreat nine-mile tunnel 
of St. Gothard, Leaving the tunnel we obtain maK'n.ti- 
cent Khmpses of Switzerland's m„st inspiring seenerv 
and following the shores of the Lake of the Four Cantons 
wc run from Fluellan through seenes famous bv the 
tragedy of William Tell, and are soon landed in the verv 
heart of Lueerne. 



The gilt-edged r Mtation that Lucerne enjoys is due 
to Its romantic f . on the most beautiful of lakes in 

the midst of majestic Alpine seenerv. It is a " Dreamland " 
in the heart of Switzerland. From earlv spring, when the 
flowers begin to bloom, till Ir.te in October, when the trees 
are swept by autumnal winds, the tide ' visitors never 
ceases, so that no one can claim to know ; .-trland unless 
he has spent some time in this picturesque, original and 
lively little place. 

We have taken rooms at the Swan, a splendid hotel 
at the head of the lake, and in the most desirable part of 
the town. And from here wc began to explore its most 
important and attractive points. 




To onjov a .oj„urn in Liu.rn,' must l„. m 
ar.hnt Iov.t of n.-.tuf >n lur >u,.r..,n.. lowlinrss a.H ;.„ 
c-nthus,ast,. mountain ,, for sl... ,.r.-,.mm- 
eni.. ovrr lur f.wns in l-antv of mountain s...ncrv 
Ontluon. si.I.. th.r.. ,s ,1... R,,-,, . la.l in l-riKl.t vrniurc' 

<Hil 11(111...., I'allaiizii. I.„K„ Mhkk.mi... 

towcTin.L,' skywanl; on thv other. Mount Piiatus in all the 
splni.lour ot its maKnifirenir. wliile nestling at the very 
base ot these giant mountains is the Lake of the Four 
Cantons, the limpi.l water of uhuli reflects the l.-eauties 
of her fostering natural walls. 

AND TIIHol (,l| rilK KMKW \l I) ISI.K 


A.IjoiniiiK thr railwav station is thr Int.riiafional 
Muse-ui . of War an.l P.a. .■ It is a f....,nim..nt to the late 
Russian Statf Cumillor. Juhann v.n HI.,, h. and its ob- 
jcrt is t'. pr..mot.- prarr ani.mi; natK.ns Its pluiioim-nal 
colltrtion .iliistrat.s thr niarv.Ilous .|.v,lo|,mrnt of itn- 
plcmcnts of war an-l . .I.hrat.s tin- l.Irssinw "f poace. 
To tlir nt til.' Mtis.uin stands thr I'ust an.l T.l.^jraph 
Otiirc, an.l a iVw par.s away is the S,-,. Hni. Ik- l.ri.l^f, 
un.liT whirl) (lows tl..' . of tl,,' Rruss 

•i'MiiTiil \i.« fi III,. (;iri,, ,, .S.-MI1,.. 

Continuing' our prramhuiations we came to tlic famous 
pronifnadt, or tiu- Ruttrn Row of Lucfrno, wlure up- 
wards of 250.000 visitors ton},'rcj,'ati' vcarly. It is a 
deliKhtfuiiy co(ii an.l shady arca.k- \,y the of tlu- lake 
in and tlirouKh which circulate thf breezes of hill and 
lake. Bearing' to the north an.l thr<nii,di a tine part of 
the town we eoine to the romantic nook in which we 
find the " Lion of Lucerne." The scene here is impres- 


^ »J 




•ivo. At th.. b««e of t»H. ,K.r,K nclicular rock on wl.ic h 
i. hewn t»u. w,>u„,|...| Hon. A.Wn^lin^ .v.n in .Kath the 
char,,. .„,n.,t.<l t.> hin,. i. a pretty littlr lake which i, 
•hadnl by tall and I.-afv troon. Thm- is sonu.thin« sck-mn 
.n UH sottmK. and .t all hcautifully,rat..s the 
memory th. heroism and «eIf-Hacrifue of the .ountrv'. 
-ons. who f„ m .lefence of h..nor and right, on the .oth 

•h'"f> dell stands ,he Expiatory Chn,H-l hearinK the 
insenption. "Invictis pax." 

A few yards east is the wonch-rfu (Jlacier (lar.Ien. .s also a unique sp^-ctaele. While dig^.n^ the foun- 
dauon ,.f a house m ,87,. ^^-orkmen .liscovered nine - pot 

and ,7 m uianu-ter. They were e^id..ntly hollowed in 
preh,stonc t.mes hy waters flowing beneath the glacier 
whKh then e.xu-nded from St. (..hard to the north oi 
Swuzerland. vVater trickling through the Hssures of the 
glacer .mparted a rotatory motion to stones which, after 

ssu"res"'T'\! "" "'" '^^""' '''''' ^■«>' ^''^^^^^ the 
fissures ,„ the course of centuries these stones hollowed 

out the holes .n the rock beneath, and wero left in them 

When the glacur rece.led. These stones, consisting of of the St. Gothard. and Alpine limestone. 

ore st.ll to be seen in the holes. These " pot holes." 

formed then by the action of the glaciers in the ice age. 

are worthy of a visit. Near the Glacier Gar.l.n is the 

Onental Labyrinth, containing an interesting oriental 

group, r>a,m groves and rose garden. A visit to the Old 

Town. ,„ ^.j,i,h the old houses are adorned with mural 

pamtings. and others with wrought iron work, gives one 

a good Idea of what an old Swiss town was like Next 

we come to the Church of St. Xavier. erected upon a site 


that comman.ln n splfntl..] vk-w. It m a buitdtnR in the 
•tyle of the iJith century, with .i^ht arti5.ticallv thcorated 
ch'ipel* an<l several fresoci. Further on is th.> Museum, 
with the Cantonal Library, c mtaining ever 80,000 volumes 
And nenr this ii the Franiisvan church, a «i» Jnc \n ilding 
with a handsome Renaissance chapel. 


The scenery in Switxerlami is so wontlerful that th« 
terpentine length of towns, villages and picturesque castlet 
that dot the mountains are generally considered iieces* 
sar>' accessories of ;he lamlscape. But in Interlaken we 
have a town that leaves u most favourable impression 
upon the admirer f)f nature's l)eauty. Romantically 
situated be'. ween Lake Thun and Lake Bren*. it atttrda 
a grand view of the famous pyramid of the Jungfrau, 
rising heavenward, mound over mound, in her dazzling 
shroud of eternal snow. This is one of the "three star" places 
that few tourists care to miss. A few days spent in this in- 
vigorating air is one of the best tonics that could l.t taken. 

Continuing our journey we come to Bern. , an old 
Swiss town, picturesquely situated among beautiful hills. 
Its comfortable hotels, well furnished and well-arranged 
boarding houses, and numerous cottages which are 
rented to tourists and visitors, give a varied choice of 
accommodation. The originality of its people, their 
quaint costi'mes, the peculiar architecture and unique 
ornamentation of the houses, and curious fountains, give 
the old part of the town a characteristic and historical 
aspect that no other place of Europe can boast. This 
progressive town is well vorth a visit from the tourist, 
there being many points of interest in it and its surround- 




August , ,th. in StrftMhufK , „,| xu,-,t. of the N.tioiul 
llotcl t«)mpany. 

Str«H.hurK ,H th.. . h.rf utv ot AUace-UmUn.. 
Or,«,nnlly « Celt,. ...lonv, .t r.mauu.l f..r u ,hort period 
'lunnK th- ,Ht .,„,«rv. HO.. „, ,h.. ,k..hc..m..,„ of the Ow- 

r«tlM.lml ami Si.wk,, 8tr««ibunili. 

man,, after which, hut still some years before the Christian 
fc.a. u was used as a m.Htary station by the Romans under 
he name of Argentoratum. It underwent many change, 
in the years that followed, but on the ,6th Feb. ,87, 
it became once more a iKJssession of the German Kingdom' 



Atrt»r'lm« to tlif »in<.u» i»f i^oj it has a |>.»|>ulati-ri n( 
• 07..HO iKTvm'* it 11 ilu> lir'inc ni tlw ImiMrial irivrrnor 
o( Abui'i'-Liirriiini-, of the I'.Mmmut.U r-in-t'hiff . f the 
famous nth Armv Cor|*. of V.w distin^uiHhi.l Hf.hM|» of 
i*' T. anti th«' wat of ihi* im|Mrtal Ministry. 

In ur>Ur to jji-i a Nird s «'Vi' viiw of ihf town an'l it* 
•iirroun.lmj}* we t<M>k a /imrt an-l hit th«* kut^« her 
(lOHchmuni ilnw ut to th«' ple««'H of inttn-*!. 

KcachinK the i;i"a»'l Cathttlral we paUHe<| and foum! 
that itH liistory an<l asviciatioti wiili tlu' fMit wo»ili| tKoujiy 
agreeahly as intiih tinu' an we roultl |m.hhiI)Iv spare. 

Ah early an the 9th rentur>'. the Stra!»shut»; Chunh 
wa^ famoiH an a jua-iterpiei e of architecture; but tlus 
tiuihhni; is sai<i to have lieen ili-stroviil l>v fin- in the vear 
1000. Fifteen years hiter, liowivt-r. under Hishop Wrrn- 
her. the projKwal to rehuilil it <tn a larkjr s» ali' wan 
hrou^;ht forward, and it tMini; aceeptahle, the fr-.nt of 
tht- I'alhedral was lompleted by 1275. Aeii»rdini{ to 
the plan of the arehiteet Krwin. tht work was to \h- i rowned 
wit 11 two towers, but it was chUieult to harmonize them 
witli tlie front. Finally, he eoneeived the desiKn that wouM 
mak'- them harmonize and bejfun the work, whu li was 
not rompifted till a whoji- generation had passed awav. 

Erwin died, and after a !oni{ tnterru|'tion ot tin- la- 
borious work Hans Huh ■. from Cologne, built the Ujld 
elegant t««wer on to tht- ,:,'iant foun<lation, in tin- 15th 
century. Tht fnmta^'e tuntains three {>orthes, which are 
covered with stone miniatures, anil are of the jijreatest 
interest. Both sides of the central (M)rch is |jite<l with 
new bronze d<Mjrs. and adorned with small statues reprc- 
sentinK prophets. The archway illustrates stories of the 
Creati<m and Redemption; a little higher is S<j|omon, and 
above him, the Viryin and Child. 


**"■"•• TWO t'llDtTlMRMTt 

<)V.T Ih, W,, ,j„,|,„, ,1,., ,1 
r«>w of nUmv fij{urr«. •■*.«•• 

right h«n.I ...I. ,..rch. on th« h-ft of th. .L.r, ,h. tern, t^ 
«Plpr, .n th. rorn, of «n ,-l.««nt vouth. «n.| on t I h" 
u 1 . .n.|..Kr.K.,„ ,,. u... Urt h«n,l ,.nh. th« Vice* „ 

the .h«;«. of thn«tmn virKin.. Thr north ,Km|, of th« 

wh.M«tU.r i, cove. With .u^^^^^^^ 

Sal..n«. the .laughter 6r Krw.n. ,. «.i.i u> have worked 
a h. Ro„,an southern po.h. Th. r.,.re»entat J 

V.rK n Mar>^ The«.. l.^ure.. „. indeed „,.. whole gable 
OK. ,x,rch. are protecte.1 from the north and we. 
IT: T P ^"""•^"^'"^'y -»«*" their fre^hnes, Th, 

nd r. r r" ""' "" ''^"«"'"^ ««•''-• - the right 
and eft of the are the .ork of the .Stra.„burg 
Kulptor (iraw {i860; ^ 

The general imprewior. given by the interior is not 
d..,Mmdar to that of the Cathedrals of Reim,. Bourge. 
Tro>.. and Pan. but cannot compare with ti,at of the 
Cob,ne Cathedral, the cho.r and nav.. of which are much 
aster Beneath the raised .hoir i, the crvpt or grave- 
yard^ the exmence of which i.s due to the We'tern custom 
c havmg m every church an imitation of the Holy Tomb 
at Jerusalem. ■ »"i"o 

..J^\u""^^' '*"':^ '^'P** ^-''"'"^•••^ '*>■ Hamnu-rer. 
1485 .s the verv one from which Geiierof Kaisersberg. that 
talente.l clencal orator, delivered his discourses The 



•iclm.i,m. of thr ,„Jt. ,,«vr4. tlr,!,* «tH ,„ ,..„^,„ ,.,i„j. 

On the U'ft h«nd M.K- of il,« ih.Mr » .tiiirwav u,»,ta 
.»-*n to the Hi. John •« Cha,.!. whrr.. th. .nonum.nt of 
H..hop tonrii.1. wh.. laid ,h.. foundation »ton.. of th« 
front in 1,99. „ pr. ,rrv.- ' On on.. ,idr in a narrow 
glHM nK>f,.d «>urt t» thr t ,.,l. of Krwin. 

In the .outhrrn nave » a |.ill ir. calUd iho Anx.-I piU 
lar. ruhly u.lorn, d with .tatmu,. Th- a«tronom,cal dock 
m thr form of an altar. ttd..rn« the rtwtrrn wall Thii 
m««n.jK..nt .cnt.fic chef-d-.ruvr- ha, a lon^ hutory 
Kh,n.l .t. Th. oI.Ut clock, IK-Kun under H„hop John of 
1.1. itrnUrK ,„ ,.,5,. had Wen ^.-t up on th- op,K„it«. 
wall and mark.d the mov.nunt* of the »un an.l nuM.n 
It |Hm...M.d further a rich pupiKt -how. whieh daily and 
hourly reiK.«ted inud,,u« taken fro.,, the kchih.1 narra- 


AicrdinK to the legend, thi. clock was put out of 
or.ler by a .troke of li^htninK. and in ,547 the council of 
the free hnpc-rial • uy ha.l a new one executed, which, 
however. « ,s not co.nplctcd until ,574. Thi. clock wa* 
destroyed „, the rev .tjon. and the remains mav be ,ccn 
in the K-auenhau.; the , a«e. however, executed and 
painted hv Tnhi.s .Stimmer in J874. contains the more 
recent clock, which is the work of the Stra«burg clock- 
maker SchwMt;u<. 

The clock shows all movable feasts, leap-vears. the 
course of the planets, the phases of the moon, the eclipse, 
o. the two celestial sr.heres for all time, and .sets itself 
autonuticallv at „ o'clock on the last ni«ht of the vear. 
The pupr«.t-sh<,w, which ha.s been made more elaborate 
and perfect than formerly. jH-rforms dailv at la o'clock 

An angel strikes the fi„t chime of each quaricr. The 



1* i 
4 ; 

four ages of man. the Infant, tin- Youth, the Man. and the 
Patriarch, add one after the other the second chime. Death 
strikes the hours. an<I a second an^el reverses the hour 
Klass. On the stroke of 12, the twelve apostles move in 
procession past the Messiah, and bow before Him; Christ 
raises His hand and blesses them, in the meantime the 
cock crows, and flaps its win>,'s. 

After admiring' the Cathedral, the mechanical clock. 
the quaint houses with storks' nests on the chimne\ s. the 
picturesque bridge and all the local attractions, we took 
another train for Heidelberg. 


On leaving Strassburj,'' the scene assumes a charac- 
ter of ^reat beauty and sublimity. The railway runs 
through immense orchards, laden with fruit, and sjiotted 
here an<l there with white cotta^'cs. around which the 
peasantry ma\- be seen in their characteristic costumes. 
Buxom lasses, with white gypsy hats thrown loosely (n-er 
their shoulders, roam the fields, and work in the ridges; 
lads, with a ruddy glow in their cheeks, mounted on 
pacing donkeys ap in the fields and on the way to market. 
The whole country through here is delightful to the eye of 
the pa.ssing traveller, and the scenic hills and valleys make 
a deep impression. 

We have reached Heidelberg, that dear old town of 
man_\ centuries, which nature and history have made so 
attractive. Let us see what it is like. Charmingly situated 
in a region of natural loveliness and having a most desir- 
able aspect, it is largely patronized by tourists in summer 
and by invalids during the winter months. The old part 
of the town lies along the Neckar; and the newest part 
skirts the hill. The whole or entire town falls under the 




shinlow of an fmincnrc callid " Kind's Scat." which, 
nurse-like, carefully shields its protege from the keen and 
Litinj; influence of the northern and eastern )^alcs. 

Half way to the sumniit stamls the Sehloss, an impos- 
ing ruin, whose mouldering walls are elothed in emerald 
ivy, and from the hei),dits of whiih there is a maKmtieent 
view of the town ami surrounding eountrv. 

Apart from the winding road that leads to the top 

The Castle, Heidelljers, 

of the mountain there is an electric railway, so that the 
ascent is always easv. 

It is pleasant to wander (in ages long gone past) 
amongst these ruined walls and roofless palaces, where 
the royalty of old and their household, no doubt, at 
times held the highest carnival and revelry. Following 
in the trail of our huxom guide we enter the vaults, 
where a miniature of the dwarf Perkeo. the court jester. 

i • 



Stands opposite the great Tun on a pedestal, with a rubber 
tube in his hand. This huge or great big Tun has a 
capacity of forty thousand gallons; was filled three times 
since i75i,, and there is no doubt, from the breadth of the 
dwarf, that he assisted in the emptying of it. From 
here we passed to the chapel, thence to the terrace, and 
out to tlie courtyard, which is still in fair state of preser- 
vation. Our next move was to ascend the " great height " 
on the electric pulley, where we refreshed ourselves at the 
fountain, strolled beneath towering palm and fir trees, 
atid in this sheltering bower we whiled pleasantly aw ,• 

the hours of a 
sui' afternoon. 
After visiting 
the romantic 
region and admir- 
ing the glorious 
views on every 
side, we reluctantly 
retraced our steps 
down the valley to 
the town, where 
from the comfort- 
able seat of a 
fiacre \vc viewed 
the historic Uni- 
versity, which has 
for upwards of five 
h u n d r e d years 
been the proud 
seat of learning 
in Southern Ger- 

The Great Tun and the Buffoon, Heidelbei^. many. 



Hcidolhorg contains every accommoilation for t< 
ists; and the ancient Nridfjes, with statues at either t 
the beautiful parks and the interesting old clmrches are 
worthy of a \ isit, and will repay the visitor a hundredfold. 


Leavinjf the jialatial railway station at Heidcll.crk' 
we journeyed on to Mayence. another little jKissession of the 
German Kin^'dom that holds out a welcome to the tourist. 
Let us remove our si)ectacles for a few minutes, and how 
to the cordiality of the attendant, who is indicating the 
shortest road to the hotel and the simplest way to visit 
the town. We are now our own jjuide. and well equipptd 
for a tour of inspection. 

Mayence attained the height of its {)rosperit\- in the 
14th century, and laid claim to the proud descripticjn - 
Golden Mayence. In succeeding,' centuries she i-.\pcri- 
enced many trials, underwent many changes, and vva.s 
almost totally obliterated. However, towards the end 
of the rgth century, a new condition of thinjjs prevailed, 
and once again M-^vence had risen to importance, and 
to-day boasts of 1. ; opulation of 91,000 inhabitants. 

It was from here that the discovery of the art of 
printi'ii,' was disseminated. One of her .sons. Johann 
Gutenbcri,'. succeeded in p"tting the types together for 
the first printing press, and sent forth the first printed book. 

The town is the seat of the district and provincial 
government and also of a Bishop, an(' it has many public 
institutions of which it is so justly proud. 

The whole province of Rhenish Hesse is one great 

Mayence is the entrance to the whole Rheingan. and 
is also the chief centre for the wine trade of the Middle 

I • 


ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS Almost Hh- whol,- town is hon.vcombed with 
cdlars. ami thc-re are some- of wine merchants. 
The sparklmK wine in.lustry hen- alone about a 
sixth of the total (u-rman^n. The town is also 
the chief auct.on-inart for the wines of the Mi.Mle Rhine 
I^.ke Hei.lelherK. Mayen.e has its Schloss. an.l its 
collect.on in the antiquarian, the scientific and the Guten- 
berg museums, the picture gallery and the library- arc well 
worth seeing. 

The Rhine Promenade alonjj the bank of the river 
IS about four and a half miles in lenKth. Further down is 
the town hall, and to the south we come upon the grounds 
of the incturesque Cathedral, with its nta.orous towers 
ErecH.,1 .n 978-1009 by W.Hij,.,. and having 
underwent many tires, etc.. very little of the original 
remams. The central tower, in pure Romanesque stvle 
finished in ,875, is very imposing. The transept and 
choirs represent the transition style (from Romanesque 
to Gothic). On the west choir there is an equestrian 
statue representing St. Martin sharing his mantle with a 
beggar. Near the pillars arc sepulchral monuments of 
some forty archbishops of Mayenee. In the nave the 
tombs arc of extraonlinary beautv. and the side chapels 
apart from being dexotiona!, are simplv gorgeous. Con- 
tinuing our perambulations we come to the admirable 
monument to the inventor of the art of printing 

From here wc drove to the steamer and embarked 
for our first sail down the Rhine. 


ProbablN- no trip is attracting more of the attention 
of tourists than that between Mavence and Cologne via 
the Rhine — the Queen of Rivers. 





This is not a niatti-r for woihUt if tlie many attrac- 
tions of till" Rhinr. niado famous hy livjt'nil ami son;,', wrre 
only hornr in muni. 

Wf ari' now ahoanl the sumptuously appointed 
sttamcr " Kaist-rin Auj,'usta Viktoria " and rrady to feast 
ujK)n the scenery of this beautiful re^'ion, so favored by 
nature and blessed with a most delightful ilimate. All 
aboard! the bell ring's and the " Kaiserin " mf)ves slowlv 
out to mid stream, when-, heedless of all things, she glides 
down the river of fame, and in full view of the villajijcs 
and to\vns that deck the wav. 

Alon« the \ine-cla<l banks the eye meets a most maK- 
nitieent panorama of picturesque descri[)tion, whilst ever 
and anon fresh beauties arc opened out as the steamer 
proceeds. Here, there ar.- pretty and jnctui^ " ns, 

with a jjreat number of ancient castles and cnu. ling 
towers, all with some romantic history, which makes the 
dark and turbulent times of the mitldle a^es to live ovrr 
again; and there, the peasantry and vine-dressers in the 
vine\ards, whilst directly in front rises majestically the 
bold forms of the mountain ranges. 

We arc now drawn up at Wiesbaden, a ri'sort which 
owes its renowned popularity to its numerous hot springs 
and baths. Not only health seekers, but the nobility and 
moneyed folk from all parts of Europe deliglit to sojourn in 
this favored nook. Among its attractions is the Casino, 
where concerts are given every afternoon and evening, 
and where the invalids enjoy the sweet strains of music. 

Continuing, our little " Kaiserin " glides gracefully 
down, and from her deck we behold the valleys in their 
silent beauty, and the mountains in majesty rising to a 
great altitude; and this scene continues for miles along 
the watery wav. 



111.' Rhini- is 7^o miks lonj,'. an.l was consj.Im'.l an 
important hiKhway f„r cotnri.-Uf as carlv as thr loth 
century, tho Roman, hd.l swav. Th. Hrst stoam- 

.oat whKh naxiKutod the river was an Ennlish one. which 
left Roltenlan. on June 8th. .8.6, an.l at on the 

tnh Juno arrived in Cologne, The undertaking of the 
hrm of Henitheversen and M,H ,.1 London was not even- 
tually a sueeess. and the re^'ular navigation of the Rhine 
by steamboats .lid not become an aeeomplished fact until 
ten or fifteen years later. About .8^8. .lifTicuIties were 
removed, the service was taken up an.l even extended to 
Manhemi. and since then alLalon^ its present course. Two 
recent a.l.htions to the service jjives the companv the 
largest, fastest and finest saloon steamers in Europe. 

We are nearinj,- Coblenz. the chief town of the Rhine 
Provmce. and the most beautifullv situated of all the 
larger towns on the Rhine. It was at Coblenz that a 
party of youn« dermans embarkc.l an.l ma.le the after- 
noon sp,n with their national son«s. As happv travellers 
they filled their glasses with sparkling' Rhine wine, re- 
sponds to the toasts an.l drank to the Rhine. A pro- 
gramme of dancing followed, to the ^real amusement of 
the pleasant party on board. 

The sultry day was drawing to a close. The setting 
sun seemed t.) melt away in the skv. dissolving into a 
golden ram, that bathe.l the whole countrv with unearthly 
splendor; while Cologne in the distance, half hidden, lay 
floatmg like a mote in the broad and misty sunbeam. 


To the stranger arriving at the boat landing after an 
enjoyable day on the Rhine, the f^rst view of Cologne is 
impressive. Beautiful ediHces, monuments, finelv laid out 


•nd tk-an strtH-ls, v'ank'us an. I fnuruain 


visitor ami ( harm tl 

»• <Vf m 

s, all i^nvt thi> 

MTmin^'ly ncvtr-i-n-lir.); 

VVV took up ..ur ai....|,. at th.' H„ti.| St. Paul, whii li 
is imtnodjati-ly op,K..sit.- thf uran.l I'atlu-.jral, aiM aftir 
dinner tnjovc.j our first car ri.Ie tlirou),'li tlu- ,i»v. 

Ci.l.iBiif Carhi'ilrMl 

The car marked RuiKhahn eonduets us in a semi- 
circle alon^ the suburban streets, which separate the oh' 
from the new town. Then we transfer to the Run.lbahn. 
which affords {)icturesque views of the town. Comfort- 
ably seated on the front of this car we obtain a most c.xtra- 
ordmary view of the i,rreat beauty of the town, a.xd are able 
to note the .strikinij difference between the old town with 





iU Kray but hutoric monununtH of the past, and th« new 
town with its wealth ot mai^jnifictnt buihlingt. 

ColoKTic may not be the capital town of the Rhin* 
Provincf. but it is nrtainly one of the prettiest towns in 
the German Kinifdom, and nssurcHIy one of the most 
im|)ortant towns in its Province. 

A fH-ep into its early history shows it is so stained with 
blood that one doi-s m.t dare sun{ the praises of the " ^ood 
*>ld times," 


It is from ilie deMTiptions of battles that we obtain 
our first information reKardinu the Rhineland. Al)OUt 
50 U.V.. Ca'!<ar, on one of his vietorious eam|iaiKn«, 
reached the Rhine near Cologne. Under tlie jirotection 
of the Roman general N^rippa the L'bii. pressed by the 
races iKvellinu to the eastward, settled on the left bank of 
the Rhine in the year ,^M A.I), and fixe<l their home here, 
near the Roman Camp. In this camp Julia Aurippii. the 
daughter of (iermanicus, was born 16 A.I). Aj,'rippa 
became the wife of the EmiK-ror Claudius, and mother of 
the notorious Nero, by whom she was mur<lered. This 
lady is of interest to us at her instiKation a band 
of Roman veterans were located as colonists amon^ the Ubii, 
and from that time the settlement bore the name of Colonia 
Agrippinensis. The Roman town was in the form of a 
square and was sun mnded by walls. .3 metres thick and 
7 metres high, which enclosed an area of q8.8 hectoares. 
The old "Roman tower" still standing in Zeughausstrasse 
belonged to th-s ancient wall. After the Franks in ,^55 
and 462 A.D. had shattered the Roman power, Cologne 
became the seat of the kings of the riparian Franks, and 
later the residence of the kings of Austrasia. the Eastern 



Fra.'kUh kiriKtlom whith vxtsuA aa »ruhiHn«ltiu till 751 
Afttr ih.- tollapH.' (,r till- Prankish kinkHom Cologne 
.li.l not km- it-. imiK^rtantT. for in thr K. . l.»ia«tica| w..rl.I 
thf town wan from early timeii of Knat injjKjrtanti-. lu 
firm Hrmlv .staMislu-.l bishnj. was tlu- holy Mai.rnuii. who 
livi.l at thr in.l of tlu- jnl and htKinninv: of the- 4ih trn- 
turifs. L'n.lir Charleniaiint-. the hislioprii was rukil by 
Hildtl»ol«| (78J-H48), a lourt chaplain and tnisted friend 
of tho KmiKTor. ard was tvintually raised to an arch- 
bishopri. . CharlimaKno asslKntd also to tht- arrhl)ishop 
of ColoKno thr ri«ht of trovvninK tho (l.rman kinK-s. In 
tho Holy Roman Kmpirt-of tin- (lirmiini. jH-opUs the arch- 
bishop of Colouni- was tho third spiritual K Uctor and I^rd 
HiKh ( liatuvlior. At tin- oU-ction of the Roman Kmp.rors 
ho had the soK.nd voto. Tho boautiful ( hiin hos, but ospe- 
I ially tho Cathodral of St. Potor built on tho sito of the 
cathedral by Mildobold, aroused the admiration of the 
world of that timo. Further, the i)ossession of the remains 
of th<- Ma«i (since 1164) has onhancod the fame of Colojfne. 
boarniiiK also reached a yreat height in CoIoK'no in the 
1 2th and i.nh centuries, when tho famous Dominican 
Albortus Magnus. Tiiomas Aquinas, and tho Minorite 
friar Duns Scotus taught there. 

In commerce Cologne was " a central ]mni l)etween 
Greece. Hungary, and Eastern Germany, on the one side, 
and Northern France, the England, and 
Denmark, on the other. It had a greater fame even than 
Vienna." In the Hansa League, founded in the i.^h 
century for the protection of commerce, Cologne along 
with LUbeck t(M)k a first place. 

The great ex{)erience in siege operations gained by 
the European peoples in the crusades, and the warlike 
nature of the times, led to great advances in the fortifi- 



cation c»r tuwnii A* u nitult of thm. thr tiiy of Colojjne 
w»« Kfttttlv pxuikUiI in tin- inh tfntur>'. a uniform 
•y-Btcm of nriumx jilltttion a.loptr.l, unii thf my whII built 
whith wuH onlv tuki-n down in iHHi 

Tl»! ColoKnr LnivtTHity. foun.lnl in i,<Hv, ma.lf rapid 
«<lvannmfnt, hut. whtn in ijHft th«' Kli. tor Max Kran« 
chanKf.! th»' B«»nn Ara.|tm> to a t'nivfmity. ColoKnr lost 
it* im|w>rian«.' i.. a M-af. of UaminK. Thf B..nn and 
Cologne' noih..thultii wvrv aJK>li,Hh.-d l.y N'afKtlron tii 170H. 
an<i thf KroU- CVntrali- of thf Rurdfpartfimnt was mtro- 
ducfil in th-ir |>h«f. Thf qufstion whfthrr CoUnjni- or 
Bonn xhould iMmsfsu a univontity undrr ihc (VuNsian 
Kovfrnmfnt was df» idfil in 1H15 in fav.»r of Bo.m. 

Coloj-ni' had, howfVfr, always hffn pninarilv i. oun- 
mfriial«l on its romnurcf rfstfd its jM>w«r. w faith, 
and inii)ortanff in tin- world K^'mrally. Thfsf l.lfssinK*. 
howfvff. disappfarfd with ((.minfrfial prf<lo!ninanif, 
Aftfr thf ilisfovfry of Anuriva in thf fnd of thf 15th 
ffntury thf commfrtf of thf world than^fd uradually 
into othfr fhannfls. A^ain, thf I,owfr Rhinf was for 
centurifs listur!)fd hy military liordfs. mostiv Frfnrh: 
in thf SfVfn Vfars' War thf tity had f; pay a forcfd cuw 
tribution whiih was nfVfr rfpaid, and in 1784 a d sastrous 
breaking up of thf i( f dfstroyfd a whoU- quartfr of the 
town lyinx alonu thf Rhinf. Mattfrs went so badly with 
the once mighty .itv. that in i7(,4. whfn the French 
arrived, almost a third of thf |)opulation lived in dens unHt 
for human habitation, and were dependent on public 
charity for their subsistence. In i7g8 an exact compu- 
tation of the worth of the building's was made, and ac- 
cording to It. the whole of Colojjne with its 1 50 churches, 
chapels and cloisters, and 7450 houses, could have been 
purchased for some 25 million francs. A number of the 


«hurrhrs and mon«*tfrtr« wirr u»tt\ hy t\w frtnch M 
miliinrv m hl.M, j,n,| hr»HpnaU. an.f CnloKni- within 44. joe 
inhahiunu rank.>.| »iin|.lv iu a provim iai town in the 
Rur.|i'|mrtrmi-nt, iho •uintal Uinw Au la rha|Hllo. 

Thr nmnrkHhU' pniKn-i* of (',i|,»Kn.. jn thr 19th rrn- 
ttirv ma<I.« n«t .mtarv a yn-ai ixuntium of the city J>oun- 
.laririt Mu'T Innu niKotiatinn* (fn.m -Md;* thi- nty 
pur. haMul in iHHi fr.un thf miliiarv authoritu--. som.- ijo 
h A. of land, at a pricr of 11.704.000 marlcn. payal.U- at the 
rat.- of a marks jn-r annum. On thr nth uf June. 
• «««. with trrrmonv. thr (ifnt hr-aih wa« made in 
the lity wall, an.i, almost as if l,v majju . a t harming new 
Kirdle han \wvn madt roun.l the old town no longer hem- 
min« it within certain limits hut U-autifvinR it. This 
ad<liti.)n .«)nsHiir)j; of !««mi-cir<ular Howtr-lH-dfi ked subur- 
ban streets, and l.,v..|v is as well worth 
a visit as the fam"d RinK'strassen (semi-nniular suburban 
utreets) of Vienna The remarkable rajH.litv and steadi- 
ness with which CoIoKne has .kvelojH-d after beinK freed 
from unfavorable ron.Iitions have not been surpassed 
by any town in (Jermanv. 

A tour through Cologne wouM naturallv bejjin at the 
Dom (Cathe<lrali. 

The foundation stone of this suJ)Iime work of Gothic 
architecture (designed by (nrhard von RichI) was lai.l in 
1J48 The choir was consecrate.! in i^j. but the tem- 
porary wall with which tluy enclosed it in orrkr to enable 
divine service to be conducted remaine.l stan.linK till 
i«6.V In 1510 the further construction of the buil.ling 
had to be Kiven uj.. Only in 1824 was the work ajjain 
resumed, the brothers Ho,sser<5e having enlisted the aid 
of the Crown Frinc.. Frederick WiUiani. famed for his 
devotion t., art After this prince- had ascended the 



thnmr, itnii whtn thi- vnUm i»f (WNtht-. tH»rr«Mi, PriedHth 
H«hlrj(i>l. nn>l ihf ilniMtciVr* hail a»rtkrn«<l tt Kcnrrai en- 
thuumMin. iht'tv unm' undrr hw imtmnAKr. »n th«' 14th Krb., 
i«4*. thr DornlmuViTt'in (.S«>rirty for Citthiitrut BuililinK). 
On th«- 4th nf St'pt , iH4». the foundation •lour of 
the n»'W part «)f the t'oloKnc Cuthrdral w«n laid, and on 
thr 15th ()*t,. iHKo. with jfriat i>»»m|». in the |»r«Mwncr 
of thf Kmitrmr Witham I, and many tither f>rtm«'». the 
romph'tion «»f th«* work wan celehrati'il l»y Nrttint; up the 
Kn-uihlunun (final ornamrntatiftni. Th«' total rx^ten* 
diture fnim the rt'-iummfnti-mfnt of thr work in iMi4 to 
the iitt t»f April, i8(ti, amounted to i6.6>4,i5{ marks 
Seventeen rollec tionn for the ImtldinK «»' the Cathedral 
yielded an average of half a million eaih. The rontrihu- 
ti:»n l»y the Stat%' was 5,700,000 niarks. while the amount 
•IH-nt «m the huildinK in the Mid.lle Agen in reckoned at 
JO millions of markn. 

If we «nt«r the Cathedral by the went jKjrtal we are 
impreiiM'il |,y its HuhliMv;-. ''iin- oL! ;;1uk« windows in 
the north aisle (left), and splendid new ones (1848) m the 
■outh aisle, allow a suhdueil linht tf> jK-netrate, The 
length of the interior of the central aisle is alniut J90 feet 
(measured from the wall heliin-l the l)r< ikrtniKe-Ka|KlIe 
— ChajM'l of the MaKJ it is alnrnt 450 f<* u and its breadth 
is 150 feet. The lofty choir encloses a number of cha|Mls. 
and the rt«H)r i.s laid with lovely mosaic- work. ( Kntrancc 
on the north side, left; cards, also admitting to a sight of 
the Catlu'dral treasures Domschatz' arc to be obtained 
from the d<M»rkecper for 1 mark 50 |>fg.). In clia|H-l No. 6 
(Michaelskapcllet is the world famcil Dombild, the Adoration 
of the Magi, St. Ursula, St. Oreon, and their companions. 
The picture was painted in the first half of the 15th century 
by Stcphan LochiHT, prr.babiv at the request of the city. 

AMttTltfK'i'nii TMf! r\iru vi.» iilk 


,\in«>tiK thi' Cfiiht'<|rii! irt>f>(iri>« i* tlu- <ihrini? ■»( the 
M«i{i. Hhi«h i« luitoi-li M<l ihf fim-^t riiam|»li? i-xt-int m 
Ktirf>|)«' i>( Uu' K<*l<l*'i(ith <> art in th« Mulillr .\«i>. h iii 
rii hiv i»rn«mi'nli'«l v*iih hKun-<>. nn«l tlalf"* frimi thi* iml n< 
th»' 17th irntury. Tb«- «il' 'T "hrmr uf Kn«tlluri. ^iiui- 
Inrlv ti«'t'«»riiti<i Willi fiK'Uf" V ilaiiM. frmn llu' ijllt tfnturv, 
j»n<l (ontitinst ihf Ikmu* »>( iht- i uiiimutil An hlinlmp Kn- 
KillHrt (muniinil m luni. TJm- triimun* ihamlHf. arc 
lull of many otlur i»re>timin oliji-< to worthv i»f inH|Ht timi. 

Thf Cuthi-ilral fmir* ri«' t<» a hiii^lit of uIhuu ^jo 
fift atiovc thf tliri-<thott| of ihi- (*atln<lral, an«l 10 fi-it iiiort* 
»U»vi' thf "«tr»'»'t Tlu' Houth towi-r inav Ik- aHdtiil)'! i»n 
wtfk «ltty« fn»m H to 1 o\lmk. ami from t \o to ft to, on 
Sundays from l^ \o to j. It alTonN a i«»m|>n'hi'n!<ivi' view 
of the town an'l a whli- rxtinl of •.urn.un'link' <ountrv. 

In the south towi-r 11 tlu- famous KaiHcrKhH kf {(ilori* 
o»»). Thi» Ih-II wu« Jttst in 1H75. at 11 ifwt of i 1.000 markH, 
by Anilr. liumm »t Frank«-nthal, out «»f tt rannon < a|>- 
turiMl from tin- Fnnt h anil pnttntiil to tlu- (\ith<'<lrul 
by Kaiwr WjUu-lm I, Tin- luii^ht of tin- Ik-II is 4,40 mitt-r* 
(c. 14 i-a ftTt) and its j^rtatt'st l>rt>a(Ith t.5 mftn-s (c, 
II i-af»'i't). It wi-i^hH, without tht ton^'Uf, i|?,oookiloi;rams. 

St. Gcrcons. Accorilm^; to trndition this is the 
8fK)t where St. (itTi'on and his Tlu-ban Lt^ion wire 
kilk'fl l>y DiofUtian iXft A.l>.. and it is supjHwtJ that the 
Emprt'ss HfU>na, mother of Constantino the <»rcat, trtcted 
a ihurih ht-ri- <lf(liiatinK it to St. (n-reon. This . hureh 
must have been rithly decorated, iit all events it reieivecj 
the appellation " ad aureos .Martyres." in the early Prankish 
IH'riod. In 1060 the ediriee was ^reath' enlarged by .\ri h- 
bisliop Anno, and in un) the oM Roman octajjonal build- 
in},; was entirely tlcstroyed, and the f.rcsent buildini,', in 
the U)rm of a decagon, erected. 





J I 
I! J 

Tlif vtstil)ulc (ontains the tottihs of Oraf Johann von 
Vcrdu^o and his lonsort. Lucia von HiTnian Provost 
Horlliold, Oraf von Konivjs.c k. tin- lioly Krytweis and 
others. In the interior to th<' ri«ht of the first altar is a 
sarcophagus with the remains of Bishop Ilildehold, the 
l.uilder of tlie first cathedral and friend of Charlemaj;ne. 
and uniler tlie hi^li altar is another sarcophagus contain- 
ing the remains of St. (iereon. In front of the hi^h altar 
is a marble slab on which the martyrs of the Thehan Lesion 
are said to have been slain. In a niche is a picture 
representinK Coloj^ne during' the time of the Thirty 
Years' War. The antique mosaic floor in the 
crypt, restored 1865 by foni Avenarius, is also re- 

Charch of St. Ursula. The church of St. Ursula 
was ori},nnally a plain Romanesque basilica with an 
open roof, but by many additions and alterations in the 
i2th, i,:5th, and 14th centuries it has now obtained more 
or less of a Gothic apj)earance. The skulls and bones cn- 
clo.sed in glass cases are said to be the relics of 11,000 vir 
gins who came to Cologne with the saintly Ursula, a 
British princess, and here suffered martyrdom. The 
magnificent marble sarcophagus of St. Ursula is 
in the north aisle, and her bones with those of 
one of her noble companions are in a shrine in the 

In this treasury amongst other curiosities we find one 
of the wine iugs used at the ' Marriage Feast at Caana 
of Galilee." The small stone sarcophagus of a child be- 
longing to the family of a Major Domo of the Merovingian 
Period, and a rock-cr\-stal figure of an animal with a silver- 
gilt spire, probably a chessman of the Carlovingian Period, 
are also worth seeing. 





Aftir an inU-restin^' and viry (U'li),'htful stay at rolos;ne 
\.-- strut k out for Brussi-ls. passing throuj,'h the prov ncial 
« ipital of the Rhint- Aix-la-ChapdU — tin- rity founded bv 
'.harli-ma^me, who Ins Imricd under the Cathodral dome. 
Here the eountry assumes a liilly aspect, and the lan<lseape 
is broken hy hma hills and fertile valleys. Were we travel- 
ling; by eoaeh throuj.(h this delijjhtful lountry I fear that 
many a fair seene would invite us to delay; as it is the eye 
roves with delight over the picturesque Iandscai)e of the 
valleys of Belgium and Holland. We are now over the 
boundary between (iermany and Bel^'ium, and after passing 
thrf)ui,'h a country abundantly rich in fruit and vejjetation 
we ])ause at Liege, during the time it takes our oM iron 
roadster to get rcfrcshe<l. Liege is picturesquely located 
in a hilly countr\ and is a thriving municipal town. Its 
streets and promenades are spacious and the houses more 
elegant and airy than is usually the case in the towns of that 
country. The town has many art trea.sures, and is the 
nucleus of a great coal district and manufacturing metro- 
polis as well. 

Leaving here we run through a beautiful farming region, 
and on either side of the train we can see manv a dairv 
whence cream, butter and cheese find their way to the larger 
cities and towns. We are now steaming into Louvain. 
which is considered one of the interesting little towns of 
the province. From our observatory, the station plat- 
form, we get a good glimpse of the (iothic city hall and the 
splendid church which is directly opposite. Louvain is 
a handsome town, and judging from us monuments, 
the appearance of the people and the land, it must equal 
the older and neighboring towns in ])rosperity. Finally, 

I 1 

1 18 


after j o u r n i- y i n « through dtli^'litful country wc 
are windinj,' our way into tin- viry luart of Ht-lKium 
— Brussels. 

Very much indeed like our home cities, with their tall 
buildinj,'s, wide streets and varied architecture. Let us 
make a tour of the jjlaces of interest, and see what they 
are like. 

Puiace (if ,hi..'tice, HrusaeLs. 

Brussels is in a measure a replica of Paris— at least, 
6o the travelling public tells us. And from our notion of 
hvely cities, it is indeed a miniature Paris; with boulevards 
and monuments, fine streets and gaily dressed people; 
cathedrals and churches worthy of admiration, and a 
brilliant life which is fascinating. The Palace of Justice 
is a magnificent temple of the law. and one of the finest on 
the continent, erected under considerable difficulties and 
at a great expense. The Church of St. Gudule a vaulted 




basiliia. is built in a lii^lily sinn)lf t-arlv (lothic stvlc, hut 
ncvirtlu'ltss it is vi-ry impressive owinj,' to its pure propor- 
tionate forms Next we i ome to the Museum of Decorative 
and Industrial Ar The loilection here is l.eautiful and 
arran«,'ed aeeordii > tlie ^reat epochs in the history of 
culture, and npresents aniony others the work of thi; artists 
of HelK'ium. The Modern Paintin^j (lalleries is also another 
place where one nia\- linger a Iouk' time with pleasun- and 

Ten miles from Brussels is Waterloo, the famous battle- 
field and the monuments comniemoratin),' the triumph of 
the combined Knijlish and Prussian forces over the French.- 

With little time now at our disposal we drove to the 
Railway Station and left Brussels for Paris. 


Four hours jc irney from Brussels brought us to 

It was the Feast of the Assum])tion. The shops 
and business houses were closed, and the whole of Paris 
was in crowds in t h e streets, in the ^'^rdens and along 
the promenades. It was. indeed, strange to find the 
city in holiday attire, particularly now under the prevail- 
ing conditions; but on the other hand it should be no, if we consider the Parisian's very ardent and 
enthusiastic love for the Holy Virgin. 

As I write these words, a feeling of sadness steals over 
me. When I think what that glorious land might be, and 
what it is -what Divine Providence intended it should be, 
and what man has made it my very heart sinks within tre. 
A daughter of the Church, she is in conflict with her 
Mother, she is at war with Christ. Passion has led her to 
" hate God. hate Christ, hate Religion." And .ill this to the 




* " 

* 'A 




<xt» lit of UK- n>4 Up thf f)l'i faith an<l Inintini,' Jtsus C'lirist 
out of till' army, navy, thi- s( liools. tlu' rourts, and now 
out of till- S»atf. VVIiat days of trial inlniinan trials — 
ft>r till' (."hurt li. the world's j,'n-atfst institution ! Some 
may fall awa\ during thfsc davs of trial, hut tlicri- will l)C 




• ^.*.V'T\v-*r 




Notrr Duriie C'hureli. I'ltri.'". 

souls brought into the light of faith by rea.son of the per- 
cution the Church is now enduring, and they will be tem- 
pered with such a faith as will stand the test of martyrdom. 
In this reverie my mind instinctively reverts from t^e 
degradation and persecutions of the present to the glory 
of the past " If this work (the Church) be the work of 



men, it will ronu' to n;nij,'ht. Imt it i* In- of 'lod you cannot 
ovorthrow it. " 

We took up our aho'lr at tlir (iranil, ami troin inn- 
visitcil till' places (,i iiuinst, or in the vernacular " \vc set 
out to do Paris. " 

L'p to now, wc have had inanv fine views of !iil! and 
dale, wood and water, mountain and lake, mi we are curious 
to know what a real city is like. And Paris is alone in its 

(iraml Opera lli)ii>«' ami .Viitiniial .Acailfiiiy nl Mi| I'ari-. 

class of cities. It is the "inerry ^o round " of Fr;(nie; the 
pleasure city of Europe. Hut I do love this city an<l its 
ceaseless hum; I love that threat excitement of the crowd 
that stimulates and makes the pulse heat onick; I love the 
breezes that waft the strains of orchestras and l)ands from a 
dozen directions; I love the Injulevards when swarms of jiro- 
menaders sweep by under the brilliant arcjij^ht; but Ilove 
them all in their time and place, and I record them with a 
sunbeam in the memories of my trip. There is onlv one 




Paris, and that is ihr Knat Capital af France, whcrtin one 
rtads, as in an open book, the Hfc of a <it}'. 

Our first visit was to tin Janlin <Ks Tuillmes, where 
a niolloy rrowd had gathered to spend the afternoon. On 
the one ride there was nni. li lauKhter and ttierritnent, on 
the other the jjay niultitiidf nic cd about in pairs or in 
decades. in the eentre, however, there was a jjreat 
circle oi humanity, in tiie middle of whic h storxl two Par- 

Bciis lie HouldKMc -VvHMUi', Pans. 

isians engaKcd in the game of Diabolo. It is the popular 
pastime in the gardens of Paris, and being a new and fas- 
cinating game, it soon spread to all the Continental holiday 
resorts. It became all the rage in the south of England 
•watering-places, in the country houses round London it is 
practised assiduously, and visitors may see learners hard at 
work in the parks. 

Diabolo is a modern adaptation of a vpr\' ancient 
^amc; it was played in a crude form bv the Greeks and 



Romans. an<l is sai<l to Iiav4' a (Miiiicsc rrjvnvalcnt. Two 
sticks, ronnciti'il at tin- jioints hv a strong stnnu. ami a 
• Imililt-htadiil top fortn tltv i(HM|ilitf f(|iiii>tiU'tu Catching 
tlu' (liaKolo by thf waist in tlic Inc.p of tlic string it is im)s. 
sihlf hy skilful nianiinilatioii to v;nc it an t-xcccliiij^iv rapid 
rotary niovcuuiit. When this has hccn suthciciitly di- 
Vfloped thf string is tij,'htcntd suddenly, and diaholo 
bounds hij,'h into tin- air. As it falls it is caught, and it ^nvs 

A^fiiui' ■il ilii' i'li:irji|'x-l l\x'<->. I'ari-. 

without saying that the skilful pcrfornuT is ai)plaudcd. 

Kre we left the " Jardin " the freshened twili<^ht heyan 
♦o fall and the soft, silvery moon and a couple of stars shone 
brilliantly in the sky. Lights were lit alon;,' the Rue 
Rivoli and twinkled in the distance as far as the Hois, while 
in the rear, the walls of the Palace and the Louvre gleamed 
in the moonlight. 

It was a lovely night, and reaching the Place de TOpcra 
wc dined in the open air. or rather 'ncath the awning of 
the Grand. Here a new world opened before us. Crowds 







pa.- - 

passid in the rrnmcmioiis f.r.lcr, Wli. nov< hv in 
«lr.-.s.«' Wlu.t vanity of |Hf)|.|. ' What ix. it<m.-nt in this 
tulv of riuMumitx • Oh' Parts, if the walls that hitn votir 
Rtrt-fts an<l houltvanls hail tonyuiH as w«'!l as t-ars. what 
talcs (f.uld tluv r.p«at' What Mights r»f levity: What 
wild s( tins of nurrinunt ami niisi huf ' 

It is now latf. and as tlu- mxt itini on our programme 
is sonuwhal linxthy wo must cnti r int«i it imintiliatily - 


N»xt morning Wf wt-rr up at tlu- usual hour and afttr 
hnakf-'st visiti'd tht- following, whu h an thf most attrac 
tJVf piarts of Paris: SaiYfd Hiart. one of the finest 
thunhi's in Paris; Park Moncraux. rtnowned for its hrau- 
tit's; Trotadtro. formirly thr Art Palait- of the Exposition 
of 1H7X. The Aquarium is mxt visited. Are de Tri(imphe. 
Hotel des Invalides. TomI) of Najxjleon. This ^rand 
mausoleum with its monolith sareophatrus and marble 
eolumn and irypt. is one of the most maunifiient sijjhts of 
Kuropi'. Chamber of I)e|)uties, the Frenc h " lower house " 
of Parliament. Place de la Conconle, with its fountains and 
statues of the departments of Fraiu c. The Champs Klv- 
sces are on the left hand side and the Tuilleries Garden on 
the ri),dn. After luni h. taking carririKcs, we i)roceed to the 
liourse. or Paris Stoi k Kxehan«e; St. Kustache, the loftiest 
church in Paris; Halles Centrales, the principal markets 
in ♦he uiiv. We now the Seine and proceed to the 
Saint Chapelle, the " jewel church," renowned for its 
wondrous stained jjlass windows r;f fourteenth centurv 
glass. The sortie is by way of the Palais de Justice, answer- 
ing to our law courts. We now arrive on the square or 
place of Notre Dame Cathedral, the metropolitan church 
of Paris, 

Second Day. -Carriage drive to \'ersailles, visiting 



Bois i\v l^nll<l^;Il.•. Lniim hiimpN ai)<l tli.' ('asjiuU". an- 
passi-fl; then skirting tin S« inf wi- cruss tlic Itri.lK" "• 
St. Cloud, tlutur priH ( r.jmv; on f<«ii tu visit tlw ruiiu'il 
Chati'HU «>f St. I'lnuij, lUstrovr.l m iH;o i , tlutitf i..i«ui^;li 
thr latf Kin|>trors ^sinlins ti) tln' i arriams to (iratnl 
Trianon, situafiil at tin- rxtniiiitv of the ^jraml avmue 
of tlif samf natiH', visiting Salon d.s (llan's. m \vlii« li thf 
("ournil of Ministirs was lu|i|. tlir I'.nsiv U- tin' Vcstilniii-, 

Clltirrli ..f tlir \l;i.|f|..iri.', I'liri- 

tlu> private rooms of \ai,,,|...)n I. \Vc insptrt tlu- ck- 
brated State carriages, perhaps the finest cf)lleetion hi the 
kind in the world. Return to the viiinitv of the Palace 
for lunch. The Palace of Versailles is next visited rtwo 
minutes' walk). Arriving at the Salon des (;iaees, or urand 
ball-room, we soon reach the Coronation Hall, which is 
so called from an enormous picture by David, representing 
the coronation of Naixjleou I. and Josephine in .\otre Dame, 
in 1804. In the centre of the room is a veiy fine statue of 







Atm.HH TWO rnvTivrvT* 

Nai«.lic.n I, Ntxt follows th.. (lalliTH' .|»h Rataill(><«. in 
will* It Is a «.iT:i>i i>| larvrr |.aintin«s Thr ('lianipH Klv >»•«•«* art- 
|iUH»>«'i| un tlir luinii vv;iri| ilri\i' 

Till' ncxi morfiini; wlun >.tartmK' <>»r \ i»it«i w«- «.avv a 
fimir.i! |.r(i<<sM<.n ajiproai liim; tli.' Maijcli-inf, ami wr 
fiill.iw.-.l the .i.rti'K'' to tin .liurili, wImtiiii .t siu.nm an«l 
lltllTosivt Si r\ Ire of K<'<|UI<ill \va> tliallfnl i.\.r tin- •lta<l. 

It was i.iir first \ iMt to the Ma<l«l.iiir. tlu' iUs«rvri|lv 
Iio|iular . Imn li ..I |»ari>, l''..r tli<' of ilir.M- wliu 

Itif < 'harriiii. Vrivjtillrii 

lia\c not as yet si-fii it, let mr sav iliat tlic <'XltTi(jr is an 
exact rr|>ro(iu(tion of a (in-ek tttnplf. Tlir strut tun- is 
obionj,'. till- faQadf consisting,' of a pednnt-nt supportol liv 
massivf Corintliian rolunins, still hcarini,' traces, in spite 
of tlie I artful resK^ration of wliii li they have been the ohjeet, 
of the hullet and shell marks of the Cotnniunist j)eriod. 
The interior of the roof jiresents a series of shallow domes 
and arcinnKs, admirahiy decorated witii frescoes, and sup- 
ported hy Corinthian pillars with «ilt capitals and flutinjjs. 

AM» THNlHliM TlIK KMr.HAIIl 141,1; 


Fnitn the imni.nH. nryan |>l«t»Ml a»H.vr thr Miural .liK.rway 
.'iKatlirv riinHitll.»r.»uii.| tin- < hurt h, on lunu r..|umnH whiwf 
• ontimiitv iM •.rokiii at mtirvaU l.v thr |«i|itni iii^ win. Ii 
•iurnnuinl tin- altiirs ..f th.- M-lr . h.i|«lv l.ii;Ml a vi rv 
" «lim. uuHttTimis" hvjlit i» a.liniitf.l ».\ tour .inular m tlu- n>..f. it i> Hi.tmiim.-* .litVhiilt . n.Miijh tf. 
ft ail on.'s |.ra\ .r lHK)k. i \ tti at t)ii.|.|a\ . an. I inv Sun.|a\ last, 
thoiii;h tlu- .lav was \ . rv l.riyltt. it n.|uir..| u.hmI rv-s to 

IIm- (ii.r.l. II .rf Xrr^ill,.., | hr l-..iiriti.iii, n,.y,ri,r. 

make out ilu- Irrsvois iti ilu' .lim liuht. furth.r ohsiur.-,| hy 
tlu' . of innnsc-. that (loato! in tlu- misty air of ihi- 

As a (losing o<lf I wfnil.l havi- niy ria-lcrs un.kTstand 
that tlu- atmosphiTf of Paris, apart from tlu' Morgue. 
whtTf the unfortunatr iovf to linxtr. is .h.-]i),'htful, Those 
qualified by birth and breodinK to move in the society of 
Pans hnd nothing other than education and refinement, 
civilization and culture. 

> I 

I ■ 





MontluN Mm Hjth, wfhr a Moil to ilu* <'hiirt h o< Our 
Kuilv of Vi« torv in |'jir»f», I ^'iithiriit up nn tritim ;»n«l 
nutiti- rrail\ for a pilKniiuiK'c to l.ouriii'*> It wan ^ttill 
(luvli|{lit wlun I v{«)t utMMtnl tin- train. ;m«l ere* ttarkni'M 
h«<l wt in I WHH )ourn*'MnK throii({h i\w rountrv of thi* 
I.oiri-, Tin- routr mav U- rotnpurcil to a <«plfntlit| pano- 
rama WliitliiT onr IikiWh to th«' njfht or to tin- U-ft, 
the eve lontinually lutdu-M ^'limpitcK of lan<Uin|irN that 

OatWry t>( HMlilr«. Vrrotillr* 

ail' wondcrfultv Uautiful. Finn' an i>ntly wootllands 
an<l ii^vvn pasiurt-s. undulalinK hills ainl neat littlf vil- 
lages, tin- tinned spires ot tlte p;irish rluin lies rising alK)ve 
the rest of tl><- houses along the wav. Daylight is now 
fading, the durKness is htromini' more pronoiuuetl, and 
as the liours advanee our garrulous " eonipagnons de 
voyage '" grow tired and sleepy. S<x)n thv shades are 
pulled down, »!'.•• l)!ue man!!'.- drav.n av-.-r li-ht. and 
all are lulled into silence and to sleep. 

AND TimoUtiJI TM«< lMilAl.t> l»LK 1,9 

When I Aokr in thr !nornini{ a !»rillintu »un wm 
■hininu i" at tlu- win.lnw ..f my com|'«rtmtnt The 
nurrv l.inln wirr al.<»ut, luit tluir viny wa, .InmncU in 
thi- n«»i!«c of thr tnun. itu j>ca«.iMir\ , uk*, win- making 
their way to the iivUh, w) that thr lu.ur lor th. .lay« 
tusk had arrivo<l. 

At 8 a.m. «»Hr train «t«umi<l into Lounh*. thv 
grtnt «»'ntf.' of C'athohi tU-vutiun in KurojK-, an<l wan 
quickly followt.l l.y anothtr. whiU- u thinl train annouiuiul 

Thr <ii>ri]i>ii ,il Vi-rwull*- Hi.' t Miimr ttuMii, 

itself by whistling in thv .hsiiinn-. Tims thry continued 
to toitu' for hours until tht- number of faithful pil^irims 
had run up into the thousands. 

Each j)ilKrimat{e was accompanied bv many priests, 
an<l frfun what I could learn they were mostly from Prance 
and Helgmm. 

The population of the little town, mi suiierblv situ- 
ated at the base ot the Pyrenees, and famous for iu pil- 
grimaKfs. is usually uliout gooo inhabitants, but thnt 




day there must have been upwards of twenty thousand 
within its limits, and none could help but admire the 
ardent faith and the sincere devotion of the humble pil- 
grims as they performed the diflTerent exercises in con- 
nection with the pilgrimage. It was again additional 
evidence of the fact that the people of France have not 
given a deaf ear to the appeal of the Blessed Virgin: 
"Go and toll .he priests to build here a church; I wish 
that they should come here in procession: go and drink 
at the fountain and bathe therein." But on the contrary- 
it was a public manifestation of their sentiments of 
loyalty and devotion and an expression of love for Our 
Lady that none could gainsay. 

By special privilege, I was able to say the Holy 
Mass at the main altar, in the magnificent Basilica dedi- 
cated to Our Lady, and in presence of a great multitude 
of pilgrims. 

Then I joined the pilgrimage of La Provence, which 
counted upwards of 1200 pilgrims, under the guidance 
of the distinguished Bishop of Digne. Dr. Castellan, 
which moved slowly towards the statue of the Blessed 
Virgin, singing the beautiful hymn of the Provence: 

O Mary, 
Do thou protect 

Our country, 
Be thou our help 
And our consolation. 

Round the Grotto stood the awe-stricken pilgrims. 

while near the pool, oh! how great the piety and the 

recollection of the multitude. You hear those Christian 

» suppHcatiops in favor of the afflicted who were there in 

numbers, and the human voice could not give expression 



more intensely than that coming from the breasts of 


" O Mary, heal them, wv pr.iv thee." 

Afterwards we visited the hospital where Uishop 

Grcllier is presiding over a procession of the Ml.ssed Sa- 

<!re»t Clock Tower". Honleaiix. 

crament before the departure of the sick and the infirm 
for the Grotto. And there, as around the Grotto and in the 
holy places of Lourdes, we contemplate with the deep 
feeling the very extraordinary devotedness of those angels 
of charity who attend the afflicted with a mother s love. 




Then followed a series of sermons by the priests to 
their pilgrims and the recitation of the beads. 

Awaiting the procession of the afternoon we see at 
the foot of the statue of Our Lady groups of children, 
under the direction of the Sisters of Nevers. the graceful 
little orphans in their white hoods recalling thus the re- 
membrance of Bernadette— " the majesty of innocence," 
as recorded by Henry Lasserre. 

The procession was formed and moved with splen- 
dor and impressiveness. Fully ten to twelve thousand 
people were in the line which led to the Grotto, singing 
the sweet " Ave Maria." ' 

We now enter the hall where the cures are examined, 
and find a Mr. Le Bozec, who had come with the National 
pilgrimage of Paris. His sickness was consumption in 
the third degree; hemoptysis ; state of emaciation. 
Enlisted in November, 1895; bronchitis in 1896; spitting 
tinged with blood; discharged with No. 2 certificate in 
March, 1896. He was treated first in the Laennec Hos- 
pital, then in the Lariboisiere; he suffered from con- 
tinuous smotherings. Arriving at Lourdes with the 
National pilgrimage, he is bathed in the pool, loth 
August; a violent contraction of the guttural nerves 
seems to smother him entirely; then he feels better, and 
is free from all blood spitting. The case was a most 
interesting one to study. 

Another case was that of Vincent Filipi, of Paris, 
seven years blind. He sought in vain for a cure in dif- 
ferent hospitals in Paris, Waiting impatiently for a bath 
in the pool, he goes to kiss the rock of Our Lady, and de- 
clares himself cured. His was another interesting case, 
upon whigh time will surely place its signature in con- 
firmation of the fact. 



We saw other cases, of children, for example, but M 
human prudence requires great reserve in speaking about 
these very serious facts called miracles. I wish to register 
only cases seen and examined hy doctors present, who 
Specially pointed out to us ti. .e cases as interesting 

Solemn Vespers was chanted in the Church o* the 
Holy Rosary, and an eloquent, impressive and interesting 
sermon was preached by Bishop Dubois. 

After the torchlight procession, it remained for us 
to attend to the fourth and last part of the pilgrimage to 
Lourdes — the Adoration by night. 

At the of midnight the doors of the Church 
of the Rosary are opened; Masses follow Masses, and new 
crowds of the faithful hourly come and go. whilst the 
illuminated cross on the top of the " Jer " shines in all 
its splendor. 

The scene is one of wonderr.ent. I have no words 
to describe it. But I will say that it matters not with 
what preconceived ideas you approach the sacred shrine, 
whether you believe or disbelieve in the intercession of 
the Saint and in the miraculous effect of the prayers 
oflfered up. you cannot fail to be stirred into 
emotion by the sanctity of the place and by its 

A devout Catholic visiting the shrine at Lourdes 
is immediately wafted away to the " Ages of Faith " 
when the pilgrim, with staff in hand and cross on breast 
trod the weary paths that led to the great centres of 
devotion; he bends before the shrine, in presence ot the 
more recent paraphernalia of the distressed and the 
afflicted that tell of hundreds of cures operated, and he 
rises up a better man, a truer Christian and a more fer- 





t I 

vent Catholic. If a man has no faith; if he be an un- 
believer an atheist he cannot fail to admire the deep, 
sincere and earnest faith of the multitude of pilgrims that 
he will meet at this great " centre of devotion." 


Soon after leaving Paris we pa.ssed through St. Denis, 
a town famed for its Cathedral, whith has been the burial 
place of the kings and queens of France. History connects 
the Maid of Orleans with this Cathedral, inasmuch as her 
arms were hung up in it. From here we continued through 
a country of luxuriant vegetation and paused at Amiens, 
where we are able to get a good view of its wonderful 
Cathedral, said to be the finest Gothic building in the world. 
A long bend in the road, and we are in Abbeville, and a 
sweep round through a prett}- landscape brings us to a 
point where we get faint views of the English Channel. 
Soon the plains of picturesque Normandy loom up -the 
former fighting grounds of the English and French - and 
speeding away at a " clip " for which the French are famous 
wc pass through Boulogne and into Calais, the last of 
English possessions lost to France. Here there was a brief 
pause, during which the passengers were transferred to the 
" Empress," which in turn bore us away from the Continent 
to the little coast town — Dover in England. Here a train 
awaits us, and after luggage and traps are put aboard, 
we are quickly conveyed to London, where in due time 
we commenced the round of sight-seeing. 


We are in London. Let us dofif our hats to the Mecca 
of English-speaking nations. The streets are thronged 
with people. Like in Paris we hear the shrill crv of the 



cabby, the rattliriK wlieel, thf murmur of the great crowd. 
On every side a livinK tide is in constant motion noing to 
and fro, all hurrying as if preoiiupied with serious errands. 
Here, a car. cab or hansom intercepts the surging wave; 
there, an auto-car, motor-bus. or automobile stays the rush 
of humanity in their eagerness to move quickly. Yonder, 
there is a scrimmage to get out of the way of proud prancing 
horses, so that the casual sight-seer, or the pedestrian on 
the streets, must be constantly on the alert, otherwise he is 
likely to run into trouble or meet with an accident, which, 
of course, he did not anticipate. 

Having reached St. James's Square we alighted from a 
neat hansom and registered at the St. Ermines, our 
abode during the days of our visit. From here. too. we 
visited the great pantheon of England's glory, " West- 
minster Abbey; '• Buckingham Palace, the residence of the 
King and Queen; St. James's Palace, where the Proclama- 
tions are issued and the State despatches arc sent. St. 
James's Park, with its ornamental water, is a ver>' popular 
RoyaJ Park, walking through which you come to the Horse 
Guards; House of Commons and House of Lords; the 
Tate Gallery, with its beautiful collection of pictures by 
modern British artists. Hyde Park and Kensington Gar- 
dens constitute the largest open space in London, com- 
prising over 600 acres, and is the most fashionable of all the 
parks. Frequently members of the Royal Family drive 
here. The Kensington Gardens are very fine. Then comes 
the Albert Memorial; the Victoria and Albert Museum, 
with a collection of artistic work in all its forms ; the Natural 
History Museum, with its natural history collections of the 
British Museum; the Indian Museum; the Albert Hall; the 
National Gallery, on Trafalgar Square, with its fine collec- 
tion of British and foreign paintings; the Royal Academy; 




British Museum, with its wonderful collection of antiquities; 
Westminster Roman Catholic Cathedral, a splendid edifice, 
which when completed will rank among the finest in 
Europe; St. Paul's Cathedral; Mansion House; The Bank of 
England; the Royal Exchange; the Monument of the great 
fire; Tower of London, around which history clings; the 
Tower Bridge spans the Thames and gives a roadway 
for the heavy traffic, thus relieving I^ndon Bridge; the 

Tower Bridge and Thsmen, lx>ndon. 

Port of London, largest in the United Kingdom; the Crystal 
Palace, reached f/om London Bridge and covers aoo acres 
of ground— a popular park for amusements ; Kew Gardens, 
in the Western suburbs, and a very popular resort; Hamp- 
ton Court Palace, built by Cardinal Wolsey in 1515, occupied 
by Henry VIIL, Charles L, and Cromwell— a charming 
resort to visit; Hampstead Heath and Highgate, beautiful 
spots in the North of London and easy of access from Char- 
ing Cross ; and finally a trip up and down the Thames. 



Command witli the chuf cities of AmtTuu. I.ontlon isi 
somewhat difticult for a stranger to pilot his way about in. 
This is largely clue to a conglomeration of villaKcs and small 
centres, which have l>een absorlied intf> the overspreading 
growth of centuries, and instead of planned thoroughfarci 
adequate to the traffic, imiKirtant routes of intercommunica- 
tion are. in many cases, but developments of the tracks 
which once led independently from hamlet to hamlet- 
Omnibuses, however, with polite drivers and han.soms 
at a low cost provide convenient transit in and around the 
city. While travelling in London one needs an I'mbrdla. 
In Egypt and (Ireece. tourists them as sun- 
shades; in Loniloii. as "shades" from the falling 

At the moment of writing the morning is lowering and 
sad. A veil of gray mist hangs over the city ; it becomes 
darker ere a heavy shower bursts from the overburdened 
clouds. It is one of these mornings when the folk sit 
idly an)und to tell or listen to stories told by the more 
cheerful members of a i)arty. Some one told these 

Lord Bramj)ton, who was better known, perhaps, as 
r Henry Hawkins, was held in such terror, and 
treasured with such an enduring hate by the coarser class 
of London delinquents, they once organized an attempt to 
blow up his house, but, in their hurry and their unthinking 
malice, they placed the bomb intended for his destruction 
on the step of the next door. It is told of him that 
he once gave instructions to a cabman to drive him to the 
Royal Courts of Justice. " Rile Courts of Justice? Uon't 
know 'cm," said cabby blankly. " What ! Is it possible 
you don't know the Law Courts .> " asked the judge. " Oh. 
now you're talkin.' The Law Courts, oh, yus, I should 




think I .!•» know tlu- Courts. Hut, Courts of Justico. m 
you lallH 'cm why. hl.sH mt-, thais u .hrt.rint thin^ 

A very eliKnifii-rl noMtmun, who in hiti day was nnv of 
our most famous poUtidans, onn- commissioned an ctni- 
mnt HA. to paint his |Kjrtrn:t. During the course of the 
exctution of the work the |Kvr was one <lny Kivinij the 
artist a sitting, and was firnhnj; it very dull work, for the 
painter was ahr;orhe,l in his toil, and had not spoken a 
MnKic word for nearly hall an hour. The peer lid^rete.l 
a»K)ut m his chair. an<l at last he asked the artist how he 
was proK'ressinK. The latter stared at him in an evidently 
preo.-upied manner, and sai.l. " Move a Jittl" to the 
ri'^'ht. and keep your mouth shut," The peer, wliose 
q'jart.rin,;;s were in part royal, and whose nncest«)rs ha.l 
fuuKht at Crccy, sat as thou^di struck by a thitnderl.Mt, 
He to he addressed in this way hy a incrr vulvar painter! 
to lie to). I to keep his mouth shut, because he ventured a 
rcm.trk: Mis Norman blood boiled, and in a tone of ice 
he timricil. ' Sir, why do you speak thus to me? " " Bc- 
e.iusc," rei.lied the artist, still painting away hard, and 
blissfully ignorant of offence. " I want to take a little bit 
off >our check." It was hard work for the artist subse- 
quently to convmce his noble sitter of the true intention 
of Iiis speech. 


We have seen the oldest city in the world -Damascus; 
we have now explored the greatest city, and are loath to 
leave it. However, it is the time, the hour draws near, 
when we must leave the Isle of the Rose for that peerless 
and endearinK Isle of the Shamrock beyond the Irish Sea. 

Leaving London by the fast Express we passed through 



Rta.lmK, Oxfor.l, »u. kin«lia,n, HirminK'himi, Slinwslnirv. 
ClMst.r. ll..lyh.a.I. lUrv the party is transftrn-.l hv 
J-Hiuii. r .ivrr tin- wai. rs ,.f the Irish St-a to Dublin. 

With uhat a thrill ..( .i.|ii;ht thi- i.asMM«.rs most <.f 
Whom an- Irish. wi-Iioau- th.- first sii^ht oi ih.' i.iast ..f Ir.'. 
land, whirl, is hrok. n u|i into a Kori-.fnis panorama ot Lays, 
cliffs an.! islan.lH. VNV r»ac hcl tin- North Wall alnrnt sun- 
set of a misty .lay. Mut the mist .kar.-.l u|> an. I tlu' lat.- 

A <|iiii'i xirwt III I.imkIiiii. 

twiliuht Kavf us t mi- to look ahout us. The tim.- o. vupicd 
in the j.mmey wa< si.x an.l a half hours from Lon.L.n t(» 
Holyhead and thn-e and a half hours to the North Wall 


We arc now in the Capital of thi- recognize.! and 
acknowledged home of pure {xjetry and legen.l. Surelv our 
first visit to thi; ancietU dty. so rich alike in its historica:. 
•rchjeologjcal and architectural features, cannot fail »n 


t < 






btinK rnjoynhlf in uh (lunuit, fuMinittint; in it* intcri'itt, 
educational in it* inHueniC, ami i vm moral in lU ){t'n« rai 

It i« the tuHtom of thoM- who hovt- wvn littU- of Dulilin 
to s|Huk of it ait " a liiy livinK on iht- Klom-* of itH oI«l 
reputation. " But when one haw MiHnt some time within tt« 
hospitable walls he Hnil« it to In- a hriKht. ch.erful city. 
with evcr>' tJi,,nifuHj attraction, and with thorouKhfitre* 

I'l'iwr Sh. kvillr .Sir«*t. Dulilin. 

constantly filled with well-dressed and a business- 
like people. In lact its people, too, have a plcasinj,' ilis- 
tinctiveness of s|>eech and manner. 

We arc now at the Gresham. on Sackville Street, one 
of the finest and most comfortable of nu)dern hotels. Mv 
apartment is in the third story, above the dust. thou>;h 
not beyond the rattle of th«- street : and mv win<low looks 
down into Sackville Street, the heart of Dublin, through 




uh iirculati'« tht- hvin^ curnnt «>( u* |i.»|nilrttion -lurinK 
th.' Kniu.r part <>f thi- Uav untl iv».n*n»{. 

Sa.kvill.-, u ,in.,i „f nuiKnifi.rnt |.rojH)t;ion. i, tho 
Knat r,n.l.«vou« of th.- ol.i an.|, th.- cvntrv .,f husi- 
ncwi ami of K'w^if*. Ihi- proiiunaihv 

l.m,kinK .lown u|Hm tht- I.iim .c-m- «n.| ihrn up al.,fnj 
th,. l.riMiantlv l,K'ht.-.| th..nHiKhfar«ii. I am at.h- l».h«tin«ui.h 
Ihf iUthrvnl munumvntH whi.h ha\r iH.n .Tccto.l at a 

Ot;.«ifM.|| Hri<l«». Ihi»jtin. 

Kreatpric to jH-rptluat,' m«-moru-s that an- . I. ar to Irehm.I. 
First I st'o Xi-lsons P.llar, then conu-s a magnifiirnt statue 
of Fath.T Matthiw. and furthc-r on is th<- statue of immortal 
O'Connoll. Alon« the Eden-quay is OG.nnell Bridge, on 
the opposite side of wliich is a statue of Smith OHrien, and 
thus they go on in almost endless varie.v unul lost in the 
distance. So mueh for the balcony se,-ne of whu h I am 
not yet weary, for I .lu love to linger at tUv wind.iw till the 
crowd is gone and the night has donned her night-cap. 




ACM<»*a TWii CtiNtiNRNTl 

Thr hour ii» miUnik'ht, an.l thi- rathciral citick haa rung 
n its last Rtrokf, EvcrythinK is ([mvt (*n«l thr night la now 
. ^vt'ly lK>nrath the *kii*« of Iroland. 

Next mi>rnin>{ the party waa up at the uNual hour and 
• Kan a round «if s,|j;hl-w««inK. Bv rlit irir tram wc passed 
ro»»){h 8«( kvill.- Strict to OTonmU Hrid^'f, where th« 
'< v.vr » "" livi.lts Duhhn inf two parts thi north side 
ill side. Aft%r rrowiinK the Itrtdi^e Wf reach the 
k- I ' 'hihhn. in the nii>;hU»rho<M| of which ar*- the 
ri- , .uiildinxs and the shopptnK ihstrict of the city, 
Cluif. lirecn IS the c tntre for hanks and innuranco com* 
panirs Here we nee Trihity CoIUkc on the on* side, the 
Bunk t I Irehmd (formerlv the Parliarnont Ho ise) and a 
row of commorciHl huildiUK's on the other. In the centre 
of the H(juari are ^tat^l»-^ of Hvirke, (loldsmith, Gratton 
and Wiiliani IN. At this |>oint the thrtf chief streets Graf- 
ton. Dame anil WestmorelancI, open f»ut of Cotleye Green. 

Continuing our 
journey hv electric 
tram, on the top of 
which wc have es- 
tablished an obser- 
\ atory, we enioy a 
panoramic view 
until Ball's BridRe, 
1 8 rcacheil- the 
scene of the Horse 
Show and the Irish 
International Ex- 
hibition, a.s well 
as the place 
where the famous 
Grattoo strMt, Dublin. Donnybrook Fair 



w», hvUi unul th.. miildii- of tb« Imi rrnturv 
Thf mam futninr.- to iht Kxhihition i^ u wi-ll dMiKneU 
•tructurr. on oithrr m.L- ^f which ^» a han-Uumr tomr u|>. 
wiirdi of eighty fitt in hv\^\n. SmalU-r tov..r^ mttrvene 
l»etwecn a favmh- elaboratrlv ornanu-nti .|, VVh«n the 
entrance hall is jmswd the loncrrt hall n\ itn Kracfful pro- 
portion* is ntxt in onKr. ami then mm.s th.- Krai^.l central 

ln««ni>r Mi. ISlmk- rHthntrnt. Ihilrf'tt 

hall, the gar.lens, side shows, lakes and »)ridges. home 
industries, tin- palace of tim arts. Canadian (Government 
exhibit, one of the f. utuns of the Exhibition, the French 
pavilion. The buildinKs. the Rrounds, the liK'htinK, and 
the exhibits were artistically arranged, and have shed 
lustre on the pr<jmoters. 

Our next visit was to the Horse Show. The day 
previous, Thursday. Au-ust syth. was wei and ducuur- 
•gmg. but towards midnight the sky cleared and the 




morning sun ushered in a complete change. Th^re 
was now promise of a dry pleasant day, and that was 
enough to encourage the youth, the beauty and the sports- 
man to leave their haunts for the Park, where every pro- 
vision is made for the comfort of patrons. A bird's-eye view 

n'Connell 8 Monument, Dublin. 

of the whole place reveals the fact that Nature, Man and 
Woman have combined to make the Horse Show grounds 
the most charming place in the world. The crowding 
beauties of this popular reset are within the reach of every 
eye, and they never appeared better, or to greater advan- 
tage. The rain of yesterday left blessings in its wake, for 




the Krass looked sleek, velvety and hright. The trees 
about the grounds, and as far as the eye could reach be- 
yond their limits, were fresh and glowing;, and the air was 
crisp, keen and healthy. There was no better tonic than 
a visit to the >,'rounds that day. 

When the hour for the o[)enin^,' of the afternoon pro- 
gramme had arrived both the town and country were 
excellently represented. All the stands were thronged, 

2<inl»Ricai (ianlriiD. I'hirnix Park, Dublin. 

the enclosures well filled, and the Dublin ladies, in splen- 
did array, sported allurinj,' fashions in delicious sunshine. 
Sunshades of many delicate tints gave much color to 
the brilliant scene, which assuredly resembled that of an 
artist's setting, With all in readiness, the judges on the 
stand and at their stations, the signal the bugle call -is 
sounded, and from the paddock come the pretty hurdlers. 
The crowd now rushes to the rail and there is much excite- 
ment as the horses canter to the post. They're away! and 

i 1 



arc followed by every eye until the turn is made; then on 
and on they come in a close tussle. Meanwhile the crowd 
is cheering, crying out, each for his or her favorite horse; 
like a flash they have crossed the post and are around 
again, over the hurdles and back to the starting point, 

O'Connrll Monument, tilasnevin Cemetery, Dublin. 

where numbers indicate the winners, and the jockeys bow 
in graceful acknowledgment to repeated applause. Now 
they gallop to the paddock. The band followi; ;pith " The 
Girl I Left Behind Me," and the excited, the enthusiastic 
crowd moves again until the next spirited race is called 




and the proud stet-ds come cantering towards the stand. 
An exceptionally fine day was the general verdict; good 
sport, splendid course, spanking race and a picturesque 
field. Dubliners appreciated the programme and were 
ably seconded by Canadians, who enjoyed ever>- item of 
the sport. 

The remaining hours and days were spent visiting 
the numerous places of interest and the churches, which 

St. Kevin'* Kitchrn. Gl^ndalouirh, Co. WickJow. 

are among the many proud monuments of Dublin. 

Side trips to Kingstown, with its splendid harbor, 
the centre of Irish yachting, and to Dalkey were likewise 
interesting and very enjoyable. 


But a trip to Glendalough, Avoca and VVoodenbridge 
is unique. After leaving Dublin the train runs to Bray; 
a much frequented watering-place, with surroundings that 
are extremely beautiful, the next stops are at Grey- 





stoni's and Wicklow; Jmt Rath<lruni is ilu- |M)iiit from 
whirh txrursions are inado. tlirou^h thi- Valo of Clara, to 
the famous Seven Churches of (llendalou^jh. This sin^u- 
larlv interostiri; valley is remarkable for the erumhlinR 
chunlus, broken pillars and shattered crosses which lie 
scattered about the vale, in the centre of which stands a 
fine spt'cimen of the round towers of antiquity, so numer- 
ous throu),'hout Ireland. Amon^ the numerous legends 
coupled with St. Kevin, the founder of the Seven Churches, 

Ht. Kevin'K l.ttkr. His l)«l up in llw- nick. 

and his bed up in the rock, is one that is told by Moort. 
in which he says that the saint, in his endeavor to escape 
from " eyes of most unholy blue " belonging to one Kath- 
leen, a fair maid who loved him madly, took refuge in a 
cave in an overhanging cliff above the lake, now known 
as the Bed of St. Kevin. 

" ' Here at least,' he calmly said, 
'Woman ne'er shall find my bed.' 
Ah! the good Saint little knew 
What that wilv sex can do." 


She found him out. and tht- siqud is dulv rdatod in a 


Whili- 1 Tossing the lake lt'adin« to St. Ktvm's hd. in a 
small iKjat rowed by one John Sullivan I vt-ntured to ask the 
depth of the water. "Oh. sir." said John, "it is not verydeep; 
but supposing you fell in. it mi),'ht take a week to yodown. 
and three weeks would hardly see you baek aj;ain." 

John loved the F.ord. but his love for the landlord, 

l'|)I>er Lake. (ili>n<lal<iUK)i. <'.i. Wi kl.iw. 

lK)ats on the lake, 

■who would not allow him to use his o\ 
he declined to attest. 

From Rathdrum we drove to tlie " Meeting of the 
Waters " and down the Vale of Avoca. where Mooro 
composed the following lines which couple his memory 
with the spot: 

" There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet, 
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet; 
Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must dej>art, 
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart." 




The distance from Dublin to Avoca is ninety milet 
by rail and ten by car (jaunting car), a most charming 
and fascinating excursion. 


From WoodenbridKe and Avcoa, a short ride in the 
cars brings us through Arlow, Enniscorthy. and Wexford 
to Waterford, one of the principal cities in this famous 
land. Establishing ourselves in the Imperial, on the Mall, 
we made the circuit of the town and found it to be of 

HFi '^H 

1 ^pf*v in^K'' 



Knunil Tower, (ileiidalouch, Co Wicklnw. 

much importance. Owing to its position, which is mid- 
way between Dublin and Cork, the town's progress has 
been retarded somewhat, but of late years much has been 
done towards the development of its many natural advan- 
tages. Its origin dates back to the 6th century and 
records of history say that the name Waterford, "the Ford 
of the Father," was given to it by the Danes. It is 
pleasantly situated on the Suir and abounds with beauties 



—the rich fields and wooded streams being exceedingly 
striking. The town is famous for having bctm the scene 
of many and tremendous conflicts between the Irish and 
the Danes. On the Mall may be teen the Reginald Tower 
which commemorates the stronghold of the Danes under 
Reginald. History records it was here that Karl 
Strongbow was married to Eva. daughter of the King of 
Leinster, and that Henry II. landed to take possession of 

rt>Uecn Hawn Kick, Killamey. 

the country granted to him by the bull of Pope Adrian. 
The harbor of the town is commodious and is visited 
by many of the liners. The People's Park is truly superb 
and is really a most inviting nook for the tourist, who is 
generally both sun-browned and weary. While the 
Protestant Cathedral is said to occupy the site of the old 
church founded by the Danes, the handsome Catholic 
Cathedral is a monument which redounds to the great piety 
of the people. Like in the other portions of Ireland the 



jH^opli- art- of n hospitality ami kindly way that in not 
faMJv forgotten. 

The watcrinK plans; to the Kouth are Iramore and 
Dunmore. Thexe are favorite rewirtn and probably the 
most salubriotiK (.n the <f)ast. f laving a ilesirable beach 
these two places are larKely patnmized by invalifis as well 
as those who are in search of pleasant recreations. 

Returning to Dublin we visited I'hfrnix Park, and 

Mfwtinc of the Warrm, KilUmey. 

continued on to Glasncvin Cemetery, which contains the 
famous Round Tower to the memory of O'Connell. 

LcavinK this interesting tomb l)ehind me, I took a 
patlnva\- which conducted mo h ind the chapel. I 
was soon in the .leep shade of hca\ .iiage, out of which 
I emerged into the most populous part >f the city of tombs. 
Every step awakened a new train of thrilling recollec- 
tions for at every step my eye rested en the name of some 
one who had exalted the character of his native land. 



Yw, in thiK Kreat tlormitory they all %\vtp »u\v by si.lf — 
Parncll and the Irish orators, statesmen ami patriots. 
" May they rest in i»cate." 

HavinK <U'v<itctl much time to DuhUn. which is ai». 
suredly a city of many an<l very cklinhlful atlrai turns, 
we shall now prcneed southward. ftassinK lhrnu>»h Kin«'s, 
Queer *s, TipiH'rar>-, I.imeriik and Kern- Counties and K-st 
at Killarnev. 

On th* I^kM ai KiUariiry. 

Of all the trips through Ireland the one we havo just 
made must be the most fascinatinjj. On either side of 
the way as far as the eye could catch glimpses of the land- 
scape, there was varied and vigorous vegetation and a 
richness of scenery which stands to be admired. Dot- 
ting the beautiful pastures were a number of snow-white 
cottages ; the peasantry- were busy in the fields and 
further in the teeming meadows herds of cattle roamed 




•t will. 
of bright 
with the 

and nana. 
have my v 


The route through thit country t» a conttnuatioo 
and lovely l»nd«ca[»fii. and will p<Mitively tgrtt 
wordu, ' This wide world a valley ho aweet " 



arc m.w in Killarmy. the bosom of the ' Kvpr 

IsU;'- arounci whiih cntwineth love, valor, wit 

It is the- r»-alixation of a ( hcrishcd dream to 

yes rovt- over tin- faieof sweet nature dimpled with 

Muckrow Abbry KiU*m»y. 

soft sunny hollows and smiling in all the brightness and 
luxuriance of summer. What an impressive lesson is 
there m the soft insinuating loveliness of Killarney. 

A pleasant drive on the jaunting car through the 
town and over the main road sheltered by magnificent 
pine'forests brought us to the beautiful demesne of Muck- 
ross, and the Abbey, situated on the rocky shore of a 
«mali bay at the eastern end of the Lower Lake, and in 



onr of the Krrm«-»t .|cm«nc» m th.- world AliKhtmg 
from the .af wt. wftlkr.1 alonn An.t tlinniKh »ha.!v avrnurg 
which UuJ up to the |»rincip.| entrance of th.- crlrbratrd 
old rum. Knt. hof h.r.-, w,. arc ,n the luv uf the rliurch 
whuh WA. u^ hy the cx,nK'r.'Katu,n. In thi, part were 
two altaw. thf has,.* of wh.. h still remain, at U,th sides 
of the tower arch Hut the nave u now th* ' Cr^-n 
Alley ■• in which many true Irish heart* are interre.l. 

Muckr«,*s. ,„ue the wtn.- of ihi- m<wt ^.lenm cere 


v>,.-i '*fl» 

• Hum AilM-n .Mrturihy nn.) Iwr |.n^slP r.m»b.«it.' K.U.rwy 

mony of Holy Mass and the shrine of Kreat devotion, is 
now roofless. This ^.-rcat t«mple of art has U-come a 
melancholy temple of nature, in which the mmbmed voices 
of the binls and winds have supplanted tne ps ]ms and 
swt llinK canticles of yore. an<i graves receive the jjentle 
visit of sunshine and shower. One can s. arcelv lravi> the 
Abbey without heinK filled with frofound feelings of sad- 
ness that so maKniticent a temple should in the height of 
its splendor and u.srfulnoss have been suppressed and 
-stripped of its sacred beauty by barbarous hands. The 


I St 


whIU •?!(] the (amous wtndow* utp in h i{no<l itate o( pr»< 
•rrvation. LikiwiNo tin- (ittltwuv vault, with it* mulp- 
turi'U hKuriH uf » wimiun an*l «hil<l; tUv tuml> «»f the 
U'l>i>not(hui« of thr filrnii. thi' uld timi' rhiiftaint o( thu 
liiW«'«, mIionc ■• whit«' h«»r*r " «n«l " \m»tm " arc pointed 
out \t\ thi' U'Kt'n'l-tilhnK lH>atin«*n to ••vrrv viKitor to 
Killiirnry. in lamc vault Iicm the aitheH of tho < hiff* of 
th«' urtHi MacCarthy M«ir family, the |iriniv« nt l)(<«nton(l, 

l^nrcr IaIi», Kiliamvy. 

who wtTf kinjjs of Munstt-r U'foro thi- era of St. Patrick. 
They were foundern of this Abbey an«l of Blarney Castle, 
in the County of Cork, and were buried here since the foun- 
dation of the Abbey. The MaeCarthys built the vault, 
which is very deep, ami covered it with the stone now 
lying at the north or left side, and which is crossed by iron 
bars to prevent the effacement of the coat-of-arms. rudely 
sculptured thereon. This stone probably dates from 
1340, and is th«' ori^jinal slab which covered the vault of 

\S\t TI||lot'<;il tH¥ (^MKHAIl. l*».k 


ctm»tni.iiofi HS\m« a*«in.l.-.| thv wtamjuw. |«m.|ini{ to 
the larif. Mjuittri. i„w«-r wi»,-.I n ^ vtrw of th»- 
•urroun.luiK' = uuntrs . ami .fimiiiK .lomi w.' v»iHlk.'<l ilirt.ujjh 
win.lmK' path* ami lK»tWfrn littU- irt^rt.ti. tn..n.iin.nin. 
whM h ■, fuilf mm lalnl in shr thu k t<>li»K»- Aftir ram- 
f'lm>C -surih alxwt in th«- Nha.lo\»v itvitim-s. mMlini; th* 
inicrijii-ms on the . nimlilmjj inonununts whi< M uuraind 
»tU'ntU>M. Hn<| K'lvinir wav ir, -lir rrlf.. tinn^ th. \ .'iwtstfd. 

I kni'll ilown to hreathr an ormm Uir tluir »t*rnal luippt- 
ness, and wciiUJ that, like thf incenst- of prayer once ofTere.l 
within the imfK>smK walls of the Abbey, it mi>{ht fm.i its 
way to the thr-uie of the Most Hij^'h O.xl. (ienlle reader, 
what lovelier emotions than those that s|)rin>,' from the 
Rrave. awakened by the dear c|ti)arted ' 

Before f left the pr»TJnrts of the A!>!jey. whtth I had 
learned to love, the shades of evening had be^un to gather. 




and ere they had fallen on the mounds around me, I per- 
ceived, in v;hat looked like a neglected corner, a hand of 
afTfeCtion busy decorating a tiny grave. I then remem 
bered the lines written by a hand which has long since 
withered : — 

When 1 am dead 

Then lay my head 
In some lone distant dell, 

Where voices ne'er 
Shall stir the air. 

Or break its silent spell. 
If any sound 

Be heard around. 
Let the sweet bird alone 

That weeps in song 
Sing all night long, 

" Peace, peace to him that's gone ! " 
As I passed out and along the shady avenue which 
lead to the car, other scenes unfolded themselves, and 
seemed to whisper in the twilight: 

Let thy joys alone be remembered now. 

Let thy sorrows go sleep aw»iile; 
Or if thought's dark cloud come o'er thy brow, 

Let Hope light it up with his smile. 

Returning, we drove through the peninsula between 
the Middle and Lower Lakes, passed the Colleen Bawn 
Rocks and over the Brickeen Bridge to Dinnis Island and 
Cottage, at the foot of Tomies Mountain, and returned to 
the hotel by way of the Kenmare Road, after stopping at 
the O 'Sullivan Arms to salute a relative. 

Our next visit was to the Gap of Dunloe. The route 
lies along the northern side of the Lower Lake for about 



«ix iniles.when the sublime scenery of the mountains comes 
in full iew, rapidly assuming more interesting features an 
Kate Kearney's Cottage is reached. After a Uttle 
refreshments— which are usually dispensed by a buxom 
maid with highly-colored cheek and light green waist— 

" Kale Kearney." 

" S5' 'r** *"" "V' '?*''"■ "' '^»««' KeameyT 
She lives on the banks of Killarnev 

we proceed on horseback through the Gap, a marvel to 
the tourist, to Lord Brandon's Cottage at the head of the 
Upper Lake, where our boats are in readiness. Along the 
route through the Gap one meets with some very wittv old 
ladies, who have many wares to dispose of. Usually the 



tourist is lured hy the Mountain Dew and the winning 
smiles of the colleen, under whose pretty arm the Dew is 
generally kept. He then "acquiesce s," pays his 
shilling and moves on and into other amis that welcome 
him to the (lap. A trip through the Gap, where won- 
derful echoes are produced at various points, is one 
never to be forgotten. And though we made it 
in rain, I record it in the brighter.t sunshine. Reach- 

Kuli' KriiriieyNCotlaKe. Ivillurney. 

ing Lord Brandon's Cottage and the boats, lunch was 
served, and while the boatmen rowed on by the Upper 
Lake and Long Range to the Plagle's Nest Mountain, we 
enjoyed the tender grace of the wood and water set in a 
framework of hills. The boat then shoots the Rapids 
under the rustic Old Weir Bridge, stops a short time at 
" The Meeting of the Waters," passes through the Middle 
Lake, and across the Lower Lake to Ross Castle, where a 
delightful trip ended, and where we resumed our drive to 



the hoU'l. When nskcd if the scenery and the lakes came 
up to our expectations I answered in the affirmative 
saying: " The scenery of the lakes like the music of the, 
land is melodiously sweet, and of a beauty unspeakably 

Our last drive was through the Earl of Kenmare's 
Deer Park to the Heights of Ayhadoe, obtaining grand 
views of MacGillicuddy's Recks and Carrun Tual (the 

Cup of Dunliw. Killamcy. 

highest mountain in Ireland i; thence through the Earl 
of Kenmare's beautiful Home Parks anil around Ross 
Island to the hotel. On the route we obtained good views 
of Mangerton .Mountain, whicii is 2.756 tVet liigli. and the 
Devil's Punih Bowl. 


Having exhausted the places of importamc, bid fare- 
well to a kind friend — Mrs. Donohue. of Hen street, we paid 
a visit to the Cathedral which is a splendid and stately 



Structure, beautifuly situated, and entirely worthy of the 
piety of the ane*nit «hotese anH of the <le%'oted zeal of the 
ominent prelates b\- whom it has hem raised and sustained. 
But like so manv other heautifui chitrches in this countr>' 
It is incomplete, inasmuch as there has yet to be raised the 
tower and spire, which in every Christian country is pro- 
perly rejjarrled as a necessary adjunct of anv design for the 
achievement of the iJtrfect diynitx and distinction due a 

Old Weir Briam (Hhooting tb« tUpitIf), KiUwiay.] 

the chief temple of a people renowned for religious spirit 
and for generous sacrifice on behalf of the faith of their 

Departing from prosperous and hospitable Killarney 
we passed onwards by rail, the next places were Far- 
ranfore, Tralee, Killorgin, Cahirciveen, Dingle Bay and 
Valencia Harbor. Valencia Island is so favored in 
climate as to bear the name of Madeira. 




From htri- wi- journfyecJ l)y (f»acl> aIon« a tine roa.l. 
lined witli a landscapf that Iwin- a fresh. I)rt»'zv look, to 
Waterville. and dined at tJu- Southern Railway Motel. 
After lunch I took my seat in a prominent place on the 
Louch. in order to have the best i>osMl)le view of the coun- 
tr>-. The drive from Waterville to Parknasilla is charm- 
ing, for the eye meets a pleasing panorama of hills an<l 
mountains of various altitudes. In Parknasilla w.- st«.p|H'<« 
for the niuht at the Southern Railw.iv Hotel. Roman- 

IMnnii Cotlacr. KiUanM«y. 

tically situated on the shores of Kenmare Bay. Parkna- 
silla need'' no words of mine to exajjgerate its charms. 
Its ideal i)osition amidst a number of small verdant 
islands and its proximity to the Atlantic endows it with 
advantages which make it a veritable haven of health and 

After breakfast next morning we set out for Kenmare. 
The horses which drew the coach were in good condition 
and needed no tickling with a wisp of straw to stimulate 





them. They trotted and oftentimes galloped up hUl and 
down dale, in helter-skelt«r fashion, and the little old i)08- 
tilinn with a well-filled pipe in his mouth scattered clouds 
of smoke around him. 

We are now passing through the village of Snecm, 
and it being market day the streets are filled with people, 
going from one car to another, examining the wares before 
making a purchase. !.eaving here we enter the mount- 

1'arir.h Cliiirch uiid ('niivprit, Trulw. 

ains. and in a few miles reach the ascent of Cooma- 
kista Pass, from which a splendid view is obtained. From 
the heights above Dcrr\-nane there is a magnificent view 
of the coast and the Atlantic. 

Nestling in its bower under verdant hills, and beside 
a stretch of golden strand, lies the home of O'Connell — 
Derrynane ! 

The house is a shapeless, or rather a very irregular 
lot of Ijuildings, which have been added to bv the various 



occupants. Finally, aftrr hours wc muh another of 
Nature's chosen sjK.ts Kinmarc a veritable |)araclise of 
noble grandeur and perfect jaracc. 


In Kenmare there are two hotels, and not knowing 
which of the two to clHK)se during our f»rief visit we asked 
the postilion to indicate the best one. " Well, sir." said 
he, " they are lioth equally good, but if you put up j!t that 

Kenmure, ('<! K«'rrv 

one. you will be sorry in the morning you did not sto]. at 
the other." 

As it was about to rain we accepted quarters at the 
Lansdowne Arms. Tlie shower\- weather that pre- 
vails all over Ireland to an enormous extent is counter- 
balanced by the many attractions which may be enjoyed 
while the rain is in pnjjjress. Such as - . 

From Kenmare we coached to Forus. One mile out 
of the town the Suspension Bridge is crossed, and then we 

i I 




f ( 

enter a Hhady avrnut' cinh' u» »'m«Tj{i' into a maKnificent 
prtMimt whirh ImffltH tleiknption. HtinK in Kcurch of 
relattvi'H unci unxioun to hn«l thrm. I rhann<l tomrrt with 
one Donin iNland OSullivan. a run- s|k'« imt*n of manluMMl. 
who Imurdcil our cur un<l fomluiti'il uh ihrou^'h paths and 
pUHws whiih U-acI to the home of the ()'Shia.s. on a ver- 
dant hilloik. When I entere.l the farm I natisHed mv 
curiosity by ramhUnj^ alnnit the hams, whit h are unuallv 

ri %./" - \im 


Pari A Church Mid Convent , Kenmare. 

one Storey high in Ireland and small ennugh. Next. I met 
with an uncle and aunt, whom it was believed had long 
since been gathered to their ancestors. They were naturally 
delighted to meet and welcome me to their hearth, around 
which we sat and spoke of the days of long ago and the 
friends of the present. It was my first visit to the old 
homestead and it was impres.sivi-. There was an air of 
antiquity about the house and barns that breathed of the 
silver age — the age of my dear old father — and so strong 


and drIiRhtful was xhv iTn|>r«iwinn it all mad*' u|ir,n 
my imaKinution. that nothint; which I aftcrwardN naw in 
villaKe. town. c»r nty roiiM tqual or i-ffacf it. 

With thrw ilrhKhtfuI h-t-hnK** Wf rt turntil f.y way of 
O'SuUivur.H to Ktnman-. Whi-n ii)ik«<l h«»w it was that 
he lion- thf nntni-. ' Dvnis Uhind, " Mr. O'Sullivun said: 
" In my father's ilay tht- kikmI old tinu'M then- wt-rc many 
by tho iiaim- of Jnhn O'Sullivan. and in onhr to <Ii.stin- 
guihh mi- from ihc others he a<ldt'<l ' Island." »nraufir of 

Thr Mail) Htrrrl, K<mman>. 

an islet that adjoined the home." 

A charming walk throujjh Kenmare brought us •. •' .« 
parish church and convent, and to the market pi.; • 
a fair had been in progress. The town is prospeiv>us iii 
appearance. It has good-sized shops, a splendid bank, 
a town hall, and many fine buildings stand promine,.-J' 
on the streets. 

On the coast route between Cahirciveen and Water- 
ville, in the County of Kerry, there are many bridges. 



Thr loach l»rHnnit a larKi* tiirtv of us wa» about to crcMS 
oni- of tht m v,)wn up KnUti] il u donkry with bin trail to 
cro!v« in thr uf){>otitr dirt'ttion, <*o that Uith met in the 
cefitn-. The clonkcy, the pride of hu niaiter, took <i(Tence 
•t the a{»pt>aruni-e of iho thorouKhhn-cl*. and hrnnn to 
back and back, till the master jutKivd from hit «tat, 
caught him bv th»' hca«l and administered a whip^nng 
Hut the diinkcN braved and braved louder. The driver 

(i<iin« III Markri In Krnmiir*. 

ot the coach, who was a bit of a knave, said. " Can ! vou 
hold that fellow >■• 

I c*)ul(l ' he saifl. "if youM coitie down and kiss 
him I " Strange to sa^ it, ?ut 1 can hear the party laugh- 
ini; yt t. 

From Kenmare to Cilengariff is an enjoyable coach 
■drive, affording fine mountain an<l coast scenery, full of 
fxquisilo coloring, (ilengariff is finally reached, and we 
are in a haven of absolute beauty. The hotel (Roache's) 



fai lituati**! in u |>rt tty i{l«-n an citrthtv puritiiiM*. in wliu h 
thm- ii thf ruhtht f<»lmkj'' thf yiw. Iwillv, arlnitUM. fui h»ia, 
ttn«l »ll run <l«>wn to thf wati-r'* vA^v N'onc who v»sit 
hiTi', »n«l put up at thf tt>«»vi'-namfi| trntil will vwr i>T)>ft 
(Hen Kan ff, 

Ni'Xt mornintf. sb>rtly ntU't thi- |(o«tilion had stm k hiK 
lon^' vihi|» into thf k^ of his Jkhii an<l lud thf hornf* ' )(v\ 
awuy, wc wiTf ihnil*inK a tnMll hill on thf routf t'l Hun- 

MurkrliUy, ('•himvM'ii I'm Krf r> . 

try. Fieri , tfH). tin- lomliitiatioii (»f ijlfn, tnouiitain ;it)i! mast 
and thf hfuutiful watffs of iht- Atlantic arc very sinking'. 
Banlry has fVfry accommodation for tourists; has an intff- 
csting churth <in a most enviahlc situation, and a mnnber 
of stfffts linfd with nnnlfrn Imildin^^'s Thf littlf t) ti is 
Well worth a visit. From Bantry v,v wmt by train to 
Cork, passini; Uurrus, Drimolfa^'Uc , Dunmanway, Hallanfcn 
Iniskoanf, Dfscrt, Clonakilty, Handon. L'pton. Ims- 
shannon, Kinsadf Junction and Hallinhasi< . 




SC '^5' tast Mo.n Stree' 

'JS f'oc'^este'', N«» ^ofh '4609 :jSA 

S ^^^*) *82 - 05G0 - Pho"* 

S (''6) 288 - 5989 -- Fq, 



[if» I 

Dialogue, A ladv tourist and a young Irishman on 
the train iK-tweon Hantrv and Cork. 

" Look at all that lovely land ^oin^ to waste! If the 
Irish around hire were not so lazy ihi-y louM have it under 
cultivation," said Miss M. 

" Vou think so, my lady," said Jf)hn 
" Yes, I think so, ami with reason," sai<l Miss M — . 
" Well, of . ourse." said John, " you Americans know 
a great deal about \our own country; but alxmt Ireland 
you have a few things y» t to learn." 

" Ah. nonsense," said Miss M — — . 
*' No nonsense about it," said John. 

"What, then, do jvm mean?" said Miss M— . 

" Well." said John, " to cultivate that pieee of ground 
stretched out before you would mean an expenditure of 
more money than perhaps you ever had or ever will have." 

" How so? " .said Miss M . 

" Well." said John. " that ground has no surface- 
it is rock covered with a light moss, and, to be sure, I never 
heard of rock producing anything in this country. They 
may culti^-ate it over in America, and if so, I'd be glad to 
cross the ocean with you to .see it." 

" Oh, I think still that the Irish are lazv," said Miss 
M . 

" Well." said John, " as the rivers have a right ti> nm 
in Ireland, ^o have you a right to think as vou please; 
" but." said he, " I don't think you are justified in ac- 
cusing the Irish of being lazy, when neither you nor any 
other Yankee— woman or man— could do better in this 
Riven case. Good-bye, madam " said John. " I must get 
out here— this is Bandon." 

AND TIIK<lt(;il THE KMKHAI.K |s|,K i-| 

"Jol'nl" said a tourist tu tlif driMT of our i oacli, " I 
want to lonsult you on a inatttr. Willi all \<iur pri'- 
ti'ndfii levity. \ ou art the wisest teljow r\r tn«'t .since I 

Ifft home riiank you. sir." said John. " Now lohn. 

he j,'(jod enouKli to tell tile how lon^; tan a live without 
brains?" " I dtjn'l knt)\\, ' saitj the rea<l\ wit, siratihing 
his head; " how oM are yovi now' ' 

A thin man droppetl a nit kol (a sixpeiic' one tlav 
anil askeii the driver to piek it up. In tloini; ■.u he >aiil 
to the man, " Vou must have heanl that stout men 
art.' more honoralde than thin on'.s." " How so " saiil 
the thin nan. " (Jh' " saiil the dri\tr, " the\ tlon"t stoop 
to such small thinv; ' " litre's your tii>. liriver! " 

While ihan'jinK iiorscs at a relay station a well- 
dressed and rather pompous fellow hoartled (;ur coaeh and 
asked a youn>; lady whi> was readin},', "Is that seat enj^fa^ed, 
hidy? ' The reply was immeiliate ami direet: "Ves, sir. and 
I am en^a^ed tool" 'Oeh, a chorra maehree, " saiil he, "'but 
you've the sootherin' ton^'ue." There was a sujipre.ssed 
titter and th. fo{) went away hack and sat down. 


Cork is a cathedral city, and presents a picturesque 
appearance. In i)oint of situation and maj,'niticence of 
prospect it is secoml to no city in Ireland. It is, too, a 
modern and very thriving city. The streets are wide, the 
quays are very broad. It has a j,'rand cathedral, fine 
churches, handsome squares surrounded with splendid 
edifices, a ^'or^'eous educational and .scientihc institution, 
and a library of no mean proportions. In prominent {Josi- 
tions on the main street of the cit\ stantl a fine statue of 
Father Matthew and a superb monument to the memory of 
Allan, Larkin and O'Brien Manchester martvrs erected 
by the Catholic Young Men of Cork. The public buildings 



and momnumtsot fhcfitv arc tictiihlf U,t tlitir.iri hitiHtiin-. 
Of Cork It itiiiv lie sail] witliout ixa^'^eratioii that it i< a 
viry tl<»urisliiii^' lity. 

In our visits wc.lj.l not miss thf tower of the Chun li of 
St. Annr (Kpisi ojiali to hsten to 

Till' Hills of ShaiitloM 
That sound so >,'ratid on 
T! • phasant watrrs 
Ot tin- RiviT Lr. • 

Discfndin.i,' the uindm;,' stairs and rcadiini,' the strv-'ct we 




Hiintrv Hay. ('■> Cork 

otrui)ii-(l our scats on tin' car, while the bells plaveJ 
■■ Believe Me of all those Endearing Voun,<( Charms," • The 
.Minstrel Hoy " and " The Blue Hells of Seotlr ' " A 
deli,i,ditful drive alon- the Marina hrouj^'ht our visit \>. .. close. 
From thi' Victoria, the sceni' of our abode, we drove 
on a jauntin.i,' car to the Groves (jf Blarney, crossed a 
coui)le of i)reuy rustic bridges and reached the Castle. 
The keeper of tlie historic Castle is an old lady, who reminds 

AMI TIIHiil (ill Tin; I \u:hai,i> ISI.K 


the visitor tluit for tipwanN ot tliirtv -tivr \ she has 
provided lor .111 old tiKin on tin- Kt'tKToiis subscriptions of tin- 
pfopU'. A wm.lini,' stair {..50 strpsi is tlir only av.-iuii- 
Itailinv; to tlir top and tlie s. .iif ot tli.- tatiious Stone. 
After iiuieli pantiiik' and nnistennij of strength and coiiraj,-.'. 
usuall\ reciuired for tlie operation of pla. inj,' ones lips to tlic 
nia>,'i.' spot on tiie outer wall, tlu ..seulatory .eremonv is 
bej;un nuieli to tlie anuisenieiit oi tlie fairer s< x, and the 
small t.ov who diuekies at the idea of th.' thiiiK. Tin. item 

ralrick's Hrniai'. Cork. 

passed, we stand a.side and witness " .seenes " in sturdy 
arms ^ the others Roin},' throujjh. and leavint,' their impres- 
sion on the Stone, of whi( h it is written 

"That whoever kisses 

He never misses 

To grow eloquent." 
Blarney is pre-eminently a fairy dell, a region of enchant- 
ment. F;very inch of the gnnes fairly bristles with legend, 
tradition, song, and storw and one could spend hours listen- 

' 1 



iriK tn tlir t.ilt s <»l llif wundt rlul tlmiv;s .lutu- by suptTiiatural 
or suptrlminaiv aj;rmiis. .Mann y Castle was one of the 
stnmjirst lorlrtssis in Munstir. imkI tlif s<al of the Mac- 
I'arthys, Lords of Musk Try and Karls of Clanrarty. Near 
thf Castle ar»' the eiltl. rated Ularnev tweed mills, (.'losu 
to the Castle are a niitnlter of ea\is. one of which was con- 
Verieil mU- a dunu'eon by some early proprietor. 

N' ' 

1*^ I 

,*<liiiiiiliiii Church. Ccirk. 

From Blarney we went by rail to Charleville, where a 
carriaj;e was in readiness for a drive to the home of Mr and 
Mrs. Russel. Tlic distance from the railway station is 

AM) TMkdt lill TIIF. KMhRALf) IHLl. 


upwitnls of fiv» tnilcs, Imt it ajipfars shurtrr owinfj to the 
cliarmiiii,' prosjui ts wIik li an- pri'snitfil oii tvcry siilc till 
thtvjlla ill till- uinlirai,'t oils ami admirahlf ntn-at is .carhed. 
Mr. ami Mrs. Russt 1 an- vtrv iliartDini; in tlu'ir iiottu' life, 
and tiiost jjcmroiis and hospituMc t'> friends who vi>it them 
lis 1 did. 

»1, Jnhin CMhrJul. 1 rrrri . 

[■■■k^'-^i3nMllB!r^- ... .. . .^ j 

Si. .JkIiii'!* CittliHflrul, l,trM**nr*k- 

Resumini,' our journey we continued on to Linurick. 
The very ancient and yet very charming position of the 
city which boasts of a proud treaty stone has become an 
oft-repeated theme. Viewed from the most modern points 
it stands unrivalled for the uniformitv of its streets and 




buildiriKD- NtitluT is it l.ukinj^ in Nature's (harms, for 
the Shannon, rtno\vn<il for its roinantu sii-ntTN , Mows 
through thf liiy ami is spaniuil !)>• hvu s|iK'n<li<l ^)r^^l^;<■s, 
vi«.. \Viiio«Uv, Matfhrv\. Halls, Park, and last hut not hait 
is thr Thonioiid Hrul/c, .it thr wt stern ind of whuh stands 
tlu' fa. nous stone upon \vhi» h the tnat\ w.i-< siwn< d in i6<)i. 
Thf sun had airady set wlun we » titered thf fjty, 
and it hiin^ Saturd.i\ niiilit, '.;reat trowd> werf evfrywhfrf 

.Si. Miirv'ii ('arlir<lrnl. Ciirk. 

to be ohserv'fd. Onf hy onf thf strfcts were li;,'htfd; the 
lamps twinkled in the dist.incf, and as the silvery stars 
appeared in the great canopy of heaven, a loud peal of the 
Cathfdral hells rang forth its glad welcome to the day of 
rest. The Cathedral bells are noted for thei'- sweetness of 

"We took up our abode at the Cruise's Royal, and from 
the window of piV a]jartment I got a splendid view of the 
Glare Mountain . 

*M> THKuri.ti I ti ^.Ml•;H^l.I> isi.k 

I •' * 

' ( * 

Ni xt nioriiin« ««• s.t niit t.. \uii tin i>|.| J'.iiluMlral. 
will, h was l.iiitt in (It.- tvv.lftii ..titurx. Kmi^ Jnlin'-i 
Ciistk'. wliii h li.i, sum. till, ,,M turn i . .iii.| i-.wits. tlir WalU 
and C.atfH. i>, .,t whuli still n iii.uii hitwiin St. 
Mini. Inn .s Clmri h an. I tin Sliann.m . thr ("atli. .Iral. rrci u-d 
in tlif ytur 1.S50, Sar>(nM M..nninfnt, .nrtr.j Ic- puMic 
suli.srription, St. John's Cluin li, wincli in tli.' s.maro 
op|K)siti- thf rums of thr ,,|,l HI.,, k Hatt.r •«-vir tniiiu)r- 

■■J 'tflSnl ^^'"^^ %:»tf 


Tlii> ('iiin.-nt. Iliiiiiry. ('.. C.rk 

ahle as one of tlu> l.usuM liatilc^jrounds of tlu- last snxv; 
St. Mun; bin's Church, n-huilt in 1H27, and is a handsome 
struiturc with two lofty towt-rs; the P.-opirs |>ark. wht-ro 
we .-njoy 1 a rest ncaih the shady trws that niakr the nook 
so attractive. From here we visited the Industrial S( hool. 
the County Infirmary. Harrin^'ton's Hospital. St. Johti's 
Hospital, St. Alphonsus Church, and the magnificent con- 
vents of whi( h the people are so justly^proud. The only 
mdustrial as.' -ncies of ;inv extent, in l.imeriok are the 



|i k 

" Hill mi ' ami " ('otnI» iimiI Milk ("<>tn|i(inv " Thi-».' IWO 
pliM iH j{iv«* i-mplovtiutit to a li»>j,i tmnil" r of mm A imr 
houfN' i'x> ttr«iion liy th»' lowir Shatimm hrouwlil uh to Kttk'.>e, 
a ftiHtuotUililc ■ttinii!.«r watirin!^ j>la«f Ami fi'< linj; highly 
r»fr<'«*lii •! iiftcr (t |ihiiiK<' in thf lUtfi ''hu' watirn of ilu- 
nnowntil Atlantu, Wi* ."ft out for C.alwas. 


LraviiU' liimruk tin ntv of tlirc' ili'lriit*. the 
Kn^ilinli. In*.!! ami Niw towns wi- jourm ynl l.y train for 

I -i. 


A Mlri^l Hirm-. Oalwny. 

Upwards of four hours. Like the industrious ant I picked 
up every patch of landscape on the way in order to |)rovide 
for the future, which is the present. But our pickings 
throughout Clare, in Ennis, Lisdoonvarna and Bally vaughan 
were not like the sweet verdant bits of the South, whic'.» 
one so easily qualifies as beautiiul, superb, sublime. How- 
ever, we feasted on what Clare piuvided, and arc none the 

\Mi|llt.iii>.ii tiu )\ili4ur>i'>i)' 


WofM' for h.lV illv' Ht.l.U- lllr .1. M".!!!!!.!!!. 1 ..t » !'• . ■Ultlt t" an .!•. .\th; iir- 

Iti <iiil\\.i\ ati'l 111 Tfit lit' ..iTrilMH. ■ \.itiir. Imi 
«ni|i«vv( .Mi.ilvs.u with 111. irr i.|\ .uit.i;;. . .nil lii-.tur' s\!fti 
iiii •I'HsiM i;tt|i>n th.ii iii.iIm - It imi iirt.iiit 

It was 'uyh II. .•Ill uluii \M ii.iiIikI tin towti .iii-l 
t'tit'Ti-l n|"I.iv:li. t! Aj'.irtint iit> Mti St I'.iiriik Stn.i. 
whtTi' wt w, r< till ni.|,, ts .1 .1 ('.i.,lMiH, I'.uUh. Ii\\.i.h 


Killiirv ll»% IrrlMhr. I'm luilw.iv 

a I harming «lay. tli n- vimUl hi- nuiu' oottcr for si^'Iu-n' -■ n^'. 
Sf) hailing a rar we wvrv soi.n arnund thi- t(i\vn and uut intu 
tht- imnu'diati' tni>{hl><irlio<nI, wlii-ri' a sfrii-s of t-nc liaiit- 
iiiK landstaiKS Kn-itnl tlif v\v. Thv strt-i-ts of tlic town 
arr somewhat narrow and irrt-j^'ular ai d rL-miiid urn- of a 
small t«j\vn in Andalusia. The hou.sfs aro modern and of 
advaneed anhitecture, hut huilt on narrow streets and hy 
the aide of rtiks of thv :.:.\teeiith icnt-rv iiuv ti<» m.l >iiow 

I Ho 

At'iiu<»<« Tv%<' iiiNTi' ^^Tll 

!•• .ulv miii) ' • K\r<- S«ju.tri' m .1 ^iuimou^ «inl<K»uri' wliuh 
i« iliHrtnitiKlv arri»iii{t<l It 1^ HtirnmtKltil l>v iniiin rtnp 
T'litin* iimotiK (iiliir. (» virv vi-mTuM"' • hur. h. ilatinu frnrn 
ihf i4tli citHiirv ninin't <'i>I!n;r, till prwlc of (ialwav, 
stiitnlx nil t'li- li:ink i>( till' Riwr I'orrili Thr ( <luil>lii('lt, 
Hituiit)''! "11 th«' harlof. 1* 11 tolonv nf fiilurnu'n. who until 
ri«rntl\ itiii'li- tluir own Iuwn an<l Knvrrnnl ihi-mM-lviit 
U((url||ttl;l^ Siilthtll, to tlu- Wc^t of (ialMii\ , m a iMauttftil 
and |N)|itil,ir hattunv; rr<iort. Th«' pronunailr aloii^; tiit> 

It ■ 

Wmrrf»ll ll.«hr • llMtrl liriiiiii'l- <iU'n«»rriK. 

short- atTonis < xtrnsivr sia vitws atxl lirin^'s (ialway Hay 
ami till' Islis of Aran umhr iinrmiliatc ohsi-rvatifm. Fish- 
•K. thf sahiion fishing in ''mlway is actually in thi- heart of 
th( town. When crossing the bri(^^Je that spans the river, 
we ali^,'hte(| to see the salmon in the water, and only re- 
Krette<l that we had not obtained a license, and then a line 
with a Inxjk lonj; an<l strong; enouKh to capture the school 
that s{>ortcd so incmty tn thu slrcuin. 

\hU Till) Ml i.ti Ttt»' I V)^ h tt !• I«l ^ 



WliiU' -taiiiliitk; Mti till liri'lijt t>>" • '•.nl » • w<»« 
intfUKMil h w.i< . |HM>r tiiilorttin.tti i< !!<»» !»«iiti; l«<| ■> 
tiHirt Uir iriiil lor Ii.imiii?. •'• f'vs i|.i\s itnAnnii .Ic.ili .1 
<li>a I) liliiM ti* .1 ri\.irtut lii« .i< iM.nni.iiti < . ulm r<'lii<<ri| hiin 
th»' prit f «tf ii nl'»*'» "I li'jU'ir • hi lb' KiUMciti' m>U- i»f ihf 
Itrnlk'r, \hv linikcn-hiarti'l irnl <li"»triti (« .| inothir walk<'«l. 
uml n»"ttriu«'>l In Hiiv , \\\ |)»M(r . iit\ jM.(»r Imt. " Slu- 

was har«f<H>t> .| .in.| .m i»l>)iit , >, Knatrit |'tt\ ll.»\« 

Miiiiiiri-.ii Vir». l)k>iiCHrn(l. I'o t'lttk. 

in^J lift (iaiway thiii imkIu. I luvtr luanl what lui ame of 
hrr ]H)OT unfortun.itf son. 


Tin- ilistanic iKtwrm t.alwav aii'l ("lif<N-ti is about 
45 niilfs. Thf niutf tlirouiih the tuwtis of Movnillfn and 
Ross is rathiT unnUtTi-siiiiK'. l»ui when ()u>,'hliTar<l is 
rtarhc'd thf jourm-y hfromts intrnstinn ami 'l«'lij,'htful. 
Hffi- *hf \ ii'Wii ari- Very htu-. To the ri>;ht. tluTf is the 





ruins of the Castle of Aui,'hnanure ; to the left, Loughs 
Shindilla and Ovrid lie sparklinj,' in the sunshine. It 
woul'l he difficult to find in the Hritish Isles a more 
exquisitely beautiful panorama than that which presents 
itself to view alonj^ this line of railway. Here, too, we ob- 
tain a good view of the glorious group the Twe've Pins. 
Our next stop is Recess one of the select spots of 
Connemara. As a rendezvous for travellers and anglers 

//>tei^ Jaunting C*i> *nt C«//«ft. 

Irish JauntinK Car ami Cottai^e. 

it is supposed to be the best in or out of Ireland. This 
district is almost entirely composed of mountains and 
lakes — the Twelve Pins at the foot of Derryclare Lough 
are seen to advantage. 

Continuing our journey we slow down in the heart of 
a wild and rugged bit of country- known as Ballynahinch, 
and resutning our speed we come to Clifden, the Capital 
of Connemara and the terminus of the railwav. 

AND niROtir.N TM*: hMER.M.ll ISLE 




Clifdcn is exc-i'llently situated at thf head of Clifd'-n 
Bay. It was founded in the reijjn of (leor^je l\'. by John 
Darey, Esq., of Clifden Castle, and is a thriving town. It is 
now the starting; point for the tourist car which runs 
throujjh Connemara to Westport. 

Leaving Ciifden the next afternf)on at 2 o'clock on 
an elongated tourist car, we drove through the rugged 
and most uninteresting County of Connemara for about ten 
miles, and it was only when reaching Letterfrack that the 
scenery assumed a character which was exquisitely lovely. 

Letterfrack is a modern village of Quaker origin. It 
has many tine and nicely appointed hotels, and splendid 
edifices. There is excellent fishing in the lakes that are so 
numerous here. In fine, Letterfrack is a restful and health- 
ful spot. The drive is continued along a road that is lined 
with fuchsia hedges of great height and richness, to Kyle- 
more Castle. Here a desert of waste land was transformed 
into an Eden by the magic wand of the late Mitchell Henry, 
Esq. The Castle is a magnificent structure, in the Eliza- 
bethan style, with conservatories and gardens of unlimited 
beauty. The drive from Kylemore Pass is exquisite, 
the road being carried under huge masses of rock glittering 
in the sunlight with scales of mica and festooned with 
creepers. On the south side are the Twelve Pins rising one 
above the other in grand groups — indeed, from no [)lace 
can the Dunnabeola Chain be seen to greater advantage 
than from Kylemore. After a short drive along the south 
bank, the road skirts Killary Bay, and runs in full view 
of the Devil's Mother (2,131 feet high) as far as Leenane. 
Here we put up for the night at McKeown's Hotel, a 
popular house with tourists, and the centre from, which 
excursions are made to Delphi — one of Connemara's rare- 


Next morning we breakfasted on fruit, ham and eggs, 
and coffee, with a little toast. At the apjKjinted hour the 
car drove up to the hotel, and the driver, a small but sub- 
stantially built fellow, bewail arranging his baggage and 
letter bags for the nearest stations. He cries "All aboard! " 


Irish Spinning Whwl. 

"The Irish women can not only dexign beautiful things, 
but can also execute them with indefatigable industry." 

and 'makes off at a thundering rate, until a hill is reached, 
when he drops the reins, pulls a small pipe from his pocket, 
a match from his waistcoat, and then, with a long swing 
of the right arm along the hem of his trousers of antiquity, 
he produces light and the beginning of his comfort. Soon 
he began to throw his packages to the right and to the left; 



to receive the whispers of the ladies for whom he had lettcm, 
and to accept the goods destined for other places Mean- 
A.hile we were passing Glenlaur Mountains. Erriff HridRe, 
Slieve Mahanagh, Croagh Patrick, and now and again 
catching glimpses of Clew Bay. and its many pretty islands. 
Another short drive brings us to the town of Westl)ort. 
Embosomed on every side in groves and woods Westjwrt 
is simply charming. Between the town and the quay is 
the beautiful demesne of the Marquis of Sligo; and that 
with the gentle stream that runs through the main street 
adds to the charm of the spot and places it away up among 
the attractive resorts. 

Thence we proceeded to Claremorris and took up 
our abode in a good old Irish house the Commercial Hotel. 
Claremorris is a quiet town, at some little distance from 
the railway station, with few. if any great pretensions. 

From Claremorris we jouincNcd by train to Ennis- 
killen, Bundoran Junction, Strabane. passing hills, valleys, 
and woodlands, till at length we entered the precincts of 
Londonderry, and were lost in the crowds on her busy 
streets. This town owes its origin to an abbey for Augustine 
canons founded by St. Columb.i in 546. TIic abbot of 
this monastery, on being made bishop, erected in 1164 
Temple More, one of the finest buildings in Ireland. Both 
this church and the church of a Dominican monastery 
founded in 1274 were unfortunately demolished in 1600 to 
supply materials for fortifying the city. The fortifications 
were finally completed in 16 18, and are to this very day kept 
in good preservation and used as a promenade. 

After depositing our valises, etc., we set out afoot 
to visit the city, which is clean and well built. It is the 
correct thing when visiting here to ascend the heights and 
walk the walls of Deny. The walls are but a short distance 

1 86 




'I I 

from the railway station, an<l afford a capital view of the 
whole city, which is Loth modern and picturesque. Among 
the modernized structures may he seen th<; houses of an- 
tiquity with their hi^h gables. Like other cities of its 
dimensions and possibilities it has edifices of advanced 
architecture: monuments and cathedrals which redound 
to its credit. The streets are wide and exceptionally clean. 

A Ciinverxu/iime in HIarney. 

The town boasts of its linen, shipbuildinj; yards, iron 
foundries, distilleries, and of the larye coasting trade that 
is carried on throughout the year. 


From Derry we take a western course by Strabane, 
■Stranorlar and Druminin. through a country' rich in vege- 
tation and pre-eminent for its scenery, to Donegal. Though 
a quaint town, and the least visited part of Ireland in former 
3-ears, it has become modernized to a great extent, and 



yearly receives an inereusini; number of suninuT visitor.;. 

A short tlistance fnnn our aUuIe the Arran \rm«. - 
is the fine old Castle of Uone),'al, built in ihic, the re- 
maining ruins of which bear ample testimony to the former 
grandeur of the place. By the side of the Castle arc the 
ruins of an ancient Abbey in which it is believed that the 
celebrated Annals of the Four Masters was composed. 
This valuable historical record is .sometimes called the 
Annals of OoneKal- A drive through the town reveals the 
fact that the j)easantr>' arc peaceful and prosperous. They 
have neat httlo homes, well cultivated farms, splendid 
cattle; and. like the people of the other parts of Ireland, are 
hosi»itable to a degree that is marvellous. The folks with 
whom we s[;okc would have us visit Killybegs, Ballyshan- 
non. Long Erne and Huncrana- much fretjucntcd watering 
places, but we were obliged to place these favorite resorts 
on a list for a future visit. 

Returning after an enjoyable excursion, we were 
struck with the grandeur of the mountain scenery, which 
equals the fanous Calabrian range and compares favor- 
ably with ilie irlories of Switzerland. The whole .scene — 
the mounts ^I'eys and homesteads on the hill sides — 

viewed at sunset, flushed with rose tints deepening into 
copper hue. with varied shades of green, will not easily be 
effaced from the mcmorv of the Canadian tourist. 



From Londonderry we went b ail to Port Stewart, 
and were able to catch passing glimpses of what is ac- 
knowledged to be a landscape of exceeding grandeur. 
Another short train ride and we are at Portrush. 

We are now away up in the North, and among the 
-Northerners at Porirush. Our abode is the " Eglintor." 

1 88 


ami my room No. 4q. It is a comfortable lookini; hotel, 
and is conveniently situated as regards tin- leading places 
of interest. It was fully sundown before I had prepared 
myself for a ramble through the busy streets of the town; 
and after the heat of the day and the dust of the train, 
the freshness of the long evening twiligh. was delightful. 
Portrush, or the '" Old Orchard " of the North, is a much 
frequented watering place, and from its general appearance 


m I 

A Nooiwtay Ke»t, (iiaiitn' L'lkuwway. 

might easily lay claim to the c;ndearing title, " Paradise by 
the Sea." As a bathing resort it ranks next to Kilkee in 
Clare, and has attractions which afford mirth and merri- 
ment to young and old. Bathing is popular, and is much 
indulged in by both visitors and the townfolk. The ex 
cellent situation of the town along a wild and rugged coast 
affords the most exquisite views of mountain and sea ; and 
its close proximity to the Giunt's Causeway heightens its 




popularity An c!<ttnc irainwa\ iuinK.ts f),.th 
". hill) arr onh iii;lit miles apart 

FV.-iit'.i,' (|viit,' n'fr.sli. .1 after a l;.....! ti'i,'ht's sUef, iti.f 
f»arti<nilar!v after a .. la I', w.' 'oar-le.] the 
tram wliicli rur.s up the ste.-p as.cnt t.. th.' White K.uks. 
Here mav he seen th.' (liatn's llea-I, the Ki>,'v'in an.| manv 
beautiful and fantasti. an h. s iHinhi.r (^.stle is alM.ut 
half way lu-tween Pnrtrtish ai.d Hushinijls. It is sai.j that 
a rnom in one of the towers is haunted at nii-ht In the han- 
shee, a fairv which fiLrures in the legends (,t y.,r.- ;.nd l.e- 
lieved in l.v many up to this verv da\ \n the river Hush 
that flows throuKh Hushniills there are !arj,'e quar.fities of 
salmon am! trout. 

The Causeway itself is perhaps the most remaikablo 
and interestin.i; of ail natural produi tioiis. It lies on thi* 
sea sln)re, and eonsisis of thousan<is upon thousands of 
vertical hasaltii columns so eloselv [.arked to),'ether that 
the e\iK)sed ends present the appearance of a roa<i or 
causeway. The height of these columns vary; some reai h- 
in« io fee*, whilst others are onlv iust visible abov.' th« 
shiuKle. The number of their sides vary; the maiority, 
however, are hexagons, pentagons lome next, all b.-injj m 
jointed portions difTeriuK in s e. generally about 12 inches. 
The joints of the j)illars are i( ave and arnvvx. fitted close- 
ly, .somewhat of the ball and socket tvpe. 

The caves are well worth a visit. The best way is by 
boat, which will also jrive the tourist an op{)ortunity of 
viewing the coast in its wild and picturesque beautv. with 
its overhanginfj clilTs. alternatinj,' with patches of golden 
strand, upon which, in the .summer time, the white-capi)ed, 
green tinted waves fall in rythmic undulations Tl: caves 
are named Portcoon and Runkerrv The former i.s sai<l to 
have been once the habitation of a hermit, which is un- 





Iik«ly. Thf fchot-H in thfxv « avcs are murvfllous. whe'thcr 
from the noU-s of .-> h\m\v or thf human voii «•. Thf Cijant's 
WfU in n small cavjty in thf ro<k. an<l alway hllf<l vith 
dear watff. Tra«lition nays the- Wfll was formed lor the 
K'iunt use. so that he mi«ht I ;ivf water handy to dilute his 
" Bushmills." 

Whatever Klf>winK acmunts of this mar\cnous Cause- 
way the tourist may liave read when a youth at sfh<K»l. or 
even in the course of nis years, a serious examination of the 
delicate and perfeet arran>{emen of the pillars will lause 
him tf) stand in admiration of Nature's handiwork. 


Some day we'll wan«ler hack aRain. For the present 
we will take leave of Fortrush and t'le Causeway to 
make a short trip to the town of Ballymcna. the 
station platform we drove two miles over an even road to 
Grtcehill, which is the name of the pretty and interesting 
little village here. The land adjoining the village is the 
property of the Moravian Communicy, and was purcha.sed 
from the O'Neill estate in 1 765. In the centre of the village, 
and set in a jH-rfect framework of trees, is the parish church. 
On cither .side stand two academy buildings, imixjsmg 
structures, used to-day as boarding schcK)ls for the boys 
and girls of Gracehill. At the back of the church, and sur- 
rounded by tall fir trees, is the burial ground of the Com- 
munity. I doubt if anyone can enter th's enclosure, where 
repose the dust and ashes of many good men and virtuous 
women, without feeling the religion of the place steal over 
him. There is no mound neglected there, and every 
grave is surrounded with a wooden pailing to secure it from 
tile passing footstep. There i.- just nuw one solitary 
mourner, and she is sitting motionless beside a grave which 





may bt- that of »om.- very .U-ar rdutiv,. „r frien.l. 
Resumitu; ..ur <!riv wr rt-turn.-.l ova the villnKc roa.l 
to th.- niilwav Htatrn. wh.rv wr await.-.l tho train for 
Antrim Alxmt M n„Us fr„m l»n- i- SI,m;.h Mot.ruain 
(>\M feet hinh). A l...:,.n.| has it. that it waH on thi, 
mountain that St. Patri. k. after biinK varne.! off from hi. 
home, tenrleil shi>«'f), 


Projierly sp.akinK nr) (K-siription could exaKtjerate 
thf charm o' this pretty littl.- town. True, it has few at- 
tractions for the tourist. I.ut there is much in the neiKhbor- 
hoou to interest n siKht-seer. Alxmt ten minutes' walk 
from the railwav station an.! we rorie to ono of the best 
prcscrvcl specimens of a round tower. As there was no 
one aroun.l to in.Ucate its proper height, we judged it to be 
about 90 feet. r.ike towers of a similar nature throufjhou 
Ireland, its origin an<l use is yet douded in mvstcr>- but 
all arc supF) to be of Christian and ecclcMasiical origin 
Close to the town and beautifully situated in a square is 
Antrim Castle, the seat of Lf.rd Massarene. The chair 
of the Speaker of the last Irish of Commons 
IS preser^•ed in this castle. Shanes Castle is but a short 
distanc-j from the town. It is the seat of Lord O'Neill 
and is situate<l in the centre of a beautiful demesne' 
Here the River Main flows through into Lough Neagh. on 
which one sees some of nature's handiwork. Loigh 
Ncagh. the largest lake in Europe, e.xcept two in Russia 
IS U^nlered by the Counties of Antn.ii. Tvrone Down 
Derr>- and Armagh. The w.l.l and rugged grandeur of 
Its scener>' and its splendid fishing and hunting grounds 
attract all those who love the pleasures of the untrodden 
forest. In this lake a fish called " Pollen " is found, which 


Aim)!»> I'm niNTINKSf!* 

1^ ii..t kn.'wii III iiiis otlur litk.' m Kur<«|.f TIk.m- who arc 
familiar Willi Antrim will mal! tin- l.««n<l "f Pmn Maioul. 
who liviilt III' liikr . 11.1 iiMt 1.. Ii..\ til nwitirial hr .|ii« up 
w.isttil. fortiK'l till InIi <>t '\'<>\u Moorr nfrrs to i*, 
a> lollows 

' On l.uuv'li NtiiKh's hanks a^ tlu- fislurman wtruj h 
Wh.n tli<' iliar uilni .m\ .l.ilmin«, 
l\v MIS tlu' roini"! ii.\v.r> «>f fornur ila\« 
In thi' wavf iK-m-alli liim siliirinK." 

11; . 

I- .41 

MulnHtrwl. HvlfB'). 

Wv continmd mir vi-ry inli-restinK drive to the town, 
tlu-nrr to the railway station and |)urchased tickt-ts for 


A short and jik-asant rido and wt- are landed in Belfast; 
a drive, with muih jolting, on a Northern jauiUint^ ear, and 
WK are the ie>;isUie<i guests of the Grand Centra!, on Royal 
Avenue. Driving throut, the city wc are foreibly struck 




with th«- mft«ni»ifi-fii , ot it* iirrfutntiially irtmu t-tlititi't. 
tlu' «Mni'«ivi .ttht itttttii tivc •.ho|">. till' tHMtittdillv |MVi-i|, 
wi'II ttunk' an>l whIc stnit'. tin- orn.tti' a|i|>i aratiif of a* 
wariliuus.fl. all of wlmb jui»ti»»i» H<. huimr..! |i|.uv in tlu- 
rank <>i tin iiroifrt-sHivf viuv\ of the llnti-tli I^Un 

Wr iiTf now itrotiivl lln' • tl\ to <»aliHfy i»ur iuri«wity 
nml knnw Mtnutlnnk' "I fli<' fami-tl " liiif> " of the North. 
Though not hi^toro.iliv or mk tally the tapital. HtlfaHt i*, 

ti»w Miy lUII, HvKut. 

from a ootntnen ial airl industrial standjKMnt, tlu- nu-tro- 
polis of Inland. It has a fKjpuIation of .<6o ooo. an«l from 
the ^'i-ni-ral apfxarancf of the inhabitants one would jud^'c 
that thtTi- are fi>v \>o<}t |>coi>lr within the limits of the city. 
Belfast is known throughout the world for its shiphMilding 
industry. The finns of Harland and Wolff, Workman and 
Clark employ upwards of ao.oco men. The linen trade 
has been the great mainstay of the North since the 13th 



I'vntury. \mt it uIm> mrtu'* on on extrntitv^ truiii* in 
enKtni'rnnK. unil in ihv mitnufiit lurv ot miniTitt Htttrr*. 
It i a thf homr «»( lUv Hi-lfii<«t wxla w.a«r «n<l K<»K*'r «!«•, 
whicii h(tH won a wortUwuK' r(|iututtciii In fuvt, it iv u« 
•i'tivc ami |nn>Krf«Mtiv'r an nnv ».iiy w- huvi- yet wt-n, 

Fr«m» t»ur i<«titl>li<ihi'ii olnu'rvutorv on tlu* NUitinnt of 
a iluuhli-ilct k truiTi we wtTt' uhli> to ohtuin Mpliinliil viiwn of 
till' .\lh«rt Mt-tnoriitl. on (Jur«'ir« S4)iiari', t!ir N'fw City 



• * 


■ in ' -^ 
4 3 1 <i> 




1 jr* 


-1^ -;^ ._^-:««. 

TW Albrrt Mviimrtai, ItoKiMl. 

Hall, Queen's Colk'>{e, the Queen's Briilge and the Museum. 
On a drive which followed we were muf.h impressed with 
ihc beauty of the Botanic Gardens I'ark. Here one sec* 
what is beautifuly termed the Oak Ground, the Flower 
Garden, the Hawthorn Collection. Ornamental Water and 
Yew Ground, in which the Irish yew takes a prominent 
place; the k-.isarj', where the msfs not only rov^ the ground. 
but being conducted on trees kept for the pur]>osc give 

AMIl rMHiil i.M THF kMtN\Mi I^IR 


un-lulatin({ mniw* •>( rtum n.. m «»mu « ii»i'« tiftccn fn-t luK'h. 
Tin- |..irk t<»«i i<>ntam< a iMfKi- KxhiJtitum Hull win. h i« 
«h«*mirm'» iiM'tl (or hiiltt .ttxl {mhlit m«'ttitn."». ('otitiiiuint: 
our ilrivf tliinii;lt thi l.rtil' \ .ilU\ in whu h tin- . u\ lt»«, 
Hn I oviT tilt niMtint. mi ri< h iti ihnr vtlvity ijritti, vtv 

n-iuhfil thi' lununit •>( t'«v«' Mil! nrt'l «m.<i)\ii| thf ,MtiMriiinrt 
whuh natiin- <t|>ri-t«il« tml with <ui h !•»,.■ iuiil i harm inr 

On till- I Hanii. IWIfH-l 

miles and niiles anniml Ri-turniriK wi pauMil at th. Ilulv 
Cross '"hurth, in rharirr of thr Rev C. |>. Kathtrs. ft is 
fU'v'antly situatid on the slopf of thr hil! an<l has a hiautiful 

Having; setn Htlfast ami its pu tur<'si|iu> surroumlinK.* 
wo now proteed to arrani;»- our traps in f)rikT and movf on 
to Armaifh. 


Lt-avinK Belfast, the ((»mmirrial capital, and entering 
Armat'h. the ecdesiastioa! mctmpMlj'i nf Ireland, was our 
itinerary for the fourteenth day of Septemlicr. 



I t 

Shortly after the train left the station, a younj; man of 
fine apiH'arance, in our compartment, began to show signs 
of worry. He stood up, looked along the rack on either 
side, then stooped to look under the seats. Xo one seemed 
to know what the matter was. Finally some one asked 
" Have you lost anything, sir?" " Ves, I've lost a coat 
and" " Why, you refused a coat and valise at the 
door of the compartment, as \ou stood talking to the 
young lady." "Did I? How was that? I must have 
been unconscious, or crazy." It was just this way. As 
the train was about to pull out he began to say good- 
bye to his young lady, ad ling to each embrace the words : 
" I'm- I'm sorry, but it is the only way out of it." Here 
a porter rushes up, saying: " Your valise, sir." " No, it is 
not my valise," answered the young man. The porter 
dashed along the platform with the valise and coat, look- 
ing for the man to whom ■> did belong. Meanwhile the 
conversation had fallen to a whisper. She looked sad. 
Touched by the pathos of her pose, he turned awav, 

but . He raised his voice. " I couldn't go without 

saying good-bye for fear you would misunderstand, and I 
couldn't say good-bye without telling you the truth." 
" The truth," she said, " The truth of course." She burst 
into tears. He turned around, very pale, and was about 
to enter the compartment of the car. " Good-bye," he 
said, "it is the last ; for the last time." The train pulled 
out, and the subdued tear found its way to the surface. 
He wiped it from his cheek and smiled. Soon he 
begins to fumble nervously in his pockets, and seeks the 
pocket of his coat ; but there is no coat. Then the search, 
with the result as above. The train slowed down at 
Moira; he hastens to send a dispatch to " lona," the only 




one he knows in all Belfast; and awaits anotlur train to 
return to Belfast and to her. 

Moral— YounK men should simply say au rcvoir. and 
not i^ood-hye. when leavinj,' Belfast. 

We are now in Armagh, the ^jn-at Cathedral Cit\ , and 
are standing on a j.ath that winds through the historic 
town. The dny is all that eouM he desired for sight-see- 
ing. There is a bright sun in the great canopy above, and 
around us quiet streams meandering in many windings 
through the plain. Herds are pasturing in the fields, and 
o<.casionallv- one or two descend the tiny and velvety 
banks to drink of the water and rest by the rivulets. Few 
herdsmen are about in the fields, but the inhabitants of 
Armagh are busy here and there attending to the important 
affairs of the home. 

We now move on and up towards the Cathedral, so 
delightfully situated on an clovation which commands one 
of the best views over the town and surrounding country. 
And the Cathedral, one of the finest and most imposing 
on the continent, erected under difficulties and at a great 
expense, partly borne by the exiles of Erin in America, 
Canada. Australia, whose devotion to home and friends 
are beautifully expressed in the words of Moore : 
' Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must depart 
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart." 

The watch towers of Annagh date from a very early 
century, and in ancient days the town occupied the im- 
portant distinction of being the seat of Ireland's greatest 
schools of learning, the throne of kings and queens, the 
tomb of warriors and of saints, whose names are enshrined 
in her meniorv. Armagh has many attractions to hold 
the ca.sual sight-seer, but our time is limited and for the 
present, at least, we must say au revoir. 




Leaving Armagh we journeyed bv way of Ncwry, 
Dunilalk, Dunleer. to DroKhcda. and as the train rolled 
along we obtained splendid views of the landscape. whii.h 
is all laid out in fields. But each field has its rivulet, and 
the stream winding on its way around thi; plain gives a 
freshening effect to the rich soil. 

Drogheda is a good-sized town, situated on the banks 
of Boyne, and has a history of interesting events. A via- 
duct of 15 arches spans the river and gives a means of 
romniunioation with the shores. The old walls rf the 
town are now atu mg its interesting ruins. 

A drive along the baniis of the fn'- us river loads us 
to the obelisk, which marks the site wh .. on the i^t July, 
i6go. the troops of William of Orange crossed the rivr to 
c'ngage the sturdy Irish confederates under James II. 
William landed at Carrickfergus. and was on his way to 
Dublin, when the town of Droheda, then in the hands of 
the Irish, barred his farther progress, and here James gave 
him battle, which lasted for hours and which resulted in 
a bloody fight, with man> killed and wounded on either 
side. From this scene of battle we moved on, and were 
able to obtain views of Slane Castle and the yellow steeple 
of Trim. Returning, we drove by the linen and cotton 
factories, flour mills, saw mills, breweries, tanneries and 
chemical works, which line the banks and give an appear- 
ance of life and prosperity to the quiet town. Our next 
stop is Balbriggan, but let us continue on to Dublin. 


We are back in Dublin — the social capital of Ireland. 
What a number of people we've met everywhere, and from 
different parts of the world — all, like ourselves, to see the 





/ •¥ 


beauties of Ircluntl. The numbiT, indeed, is phei' lal. 
Turn wh«;re you may, visitors are in groups and > 

in abundance, many of them prosperous sons of ^ land, 
who left their native shores in IjoyhootI, and whose greatest 
ambition was to see again the land of their birth ami tread 
its verdant paths. To many, and I may say to all, the 
appearance of the land was a revelation; the prospect 
hopeful. Through the valiant efforts of John Reilmond 
and his party the Government has loosed the chains that 
boun<l the tenant to the barbarous landlord. To-day 
there is hope shining in a clear sky. The tenant farmer 
has been raised from the {X)sition of a serf to that of a man 
who feels that he has rights worth protecting. Formerly 
he could be cast adrift from his holdings at thv whim or 
caprice of the landlord ; to-day he has a right to possess and 
through Government loans becomes the owner of the acre 
or two of land that he cultivates. Soon he will Ik- inde- 
pendent, for he will rise from the inertia into which he 
had fallen through the force of his position, and stimu- 
lated with brighter prospects will labor to attain the 
realization of his desires. Then things will assume their 
proper color, ^nd men's faces will beam with greater love 
for their chwuren and their homes. As it is, they have 
good reason to be proud of their achievements in the 
ay of church building and in the erection of all manner 
of religious edifices du ing the last fifty years. Wherever 
else there has been evidence of lassitude or distraction, 
the faithful Irish Catholic people have stood manfully 
and courageously by the cause of religion, and have out 
of their thin purses, in sunlight and sorrow, given liberally 
to the maintenance of the material and moral upbuilding 
of the Church and Faith of their fathers. 

In the person of their clergy they have able lieu- 




tenants ; men of head and of heart , men of honor and 
distinction ; inteUiKcnt and educated nun. Men wlio 
wilHngly sacrifice their hves for the K'w>d a"'^ upUftinK of 
the people; who watch by their destinies. They have in- 
fluence over the people and rightly so, for they are sons of 
the soil who have grown to position and dignity. They 
arc ministers of a religion endeared by suffering, and fas- 
tened by persecuti(;n to the affections of the country. 
They superadd to their influence which is bom of their 
sacerdotal authority the lesson of their apostolical con- 
duct. They practice what they preach. They are com- 
panions of people, '.nd though strenuous in their admo- 
nitions they are kindly ,in their svmpathies. and may 
be seen on the hill tops, in the viil.ys, in the meadows, 
encouraging them by the kindliest of words. They are 
the friends of the poor, among whom they daily dispense 
the duties of their calling, and they are friends to a degree 
that is astonishing in moments of pestilence, sickness or 
sorrow. Of the clergy of Ireland I can say without fear of 
exaggeration that they are a representative and loyal body 
of men of whom no nation nor people can feel other than 

Despite, then, the critics atid the cynics who decry the 
right of Ireland to an honored place in the ranks of the 
world's nations; despite her faithless sons who have thrown 
her a stont when she was in need of bread, and her daugh- 
ters who refused her sympathy and the balm of consola- 
tion in the hour of her sorrows, we can say with truth and 
justice ♦o Ireland that she has aroused from her sleep and 
entered upon an era of prosperity which she so eminently 
deserves. Throughout the land they are preaching the 
gospel of higher education, improvements in agriculture, 
incentives to manufactures. With all these things under 



wav, hnmv ruh', the dream of the iK^opU". in ono of the 
futuri! ami int-vitahlr sti'|)s iti Iroland's ri'ilrinptioti. 

Knr thr pri'si'iit wi- aiv to >av au revoir to tlie lainl of 
our alTi'ctions; to the land ujKm whiih Nature has so Iwiun- 
tifiilly lavislud h.r charms to the land ot unmatched 
attraitiveness. The sun is about to s«t, and ere the entire 
country is in the ^jray f»f twilijjht and enveloped in dark- 
ness «)f this ni^ht. let me say; to enjoy the pleasure of a 
similar tour through the counties and alon^ the coasts, I 
would willin>,'l> . cheerfully travel any distance and sutler 
anv inconvenience. Just now the mountains, which slope 
so ^jracefully to the lakes and the sea. and the islets 
arc robed in \n>\t\ and purple and crimson ; anrl th»' west 
is a flame so brijjht as to add lustre to dear old Ireland on 
this the occasion of our departure, which 

"It may be for yeu. 
It may be for ever." 


We are in Liverpool aftir a smooth and pleasant pas- 
sage across the oftentimes tumultuous Irish Sea. It in 
early morning and there are but few si^jns of life in the 
neighborhood of the docks. Ere landing, however, I 
witnessed what I judged a most peculiar scene. A num- 
ber of men —wage earners were drawn up in battle array 
on the dock. Behind them walked a superintendent of ship- 
ping, who examined their shoulders, and according as he 
found them sound and strong, bid the men be off to work 
in the sheds. The examination finished, many were still 
standing until the notice was raised: " Not Wanted." 
Disappointment was plainly discerned on the faces of the 
poor men, who5 - hearts were taxed to their utmost with 
expectancy and hope. 1 pitied them. 



l.iv<Ti)ooi has no rival amoti)^' th»- sca|K(rts «)f th<« 
worlil. Shf stan«ls alomv II«r situation siims pfrfort. 
mort'ovrr, for thv purjKwc of lomnuTir. As a shipping 
centre with aoommodatioii.-. she is uniXd-lk-cl. N<iw 
hohind her maj;nifitrnt quays lies a city of surpassing,' 
inten-st, a city with a piituresfjui- and historic aspc» l. in 
which one sees wide and well paveil streets; stately l)uild- 
in^'s to equal those of an\' rjiodem f)roKres»ive citv; an 

I^nl .Street, I.ivrri»Ki|. 

excellent street lailway system -a business-like city with a 
well dressed and prosperous people. A glance, too, at the 
natural beauty of the city and suburbs will fully convince 
the visitor that there are other things in Liverpool besides 
her superb docks. 

After two days and a half in the pleasant and comfort- 
able St. Georifc, which adjoins St. George's Hall, we set 
out on a homeward journey across the broad Atlantic. 
The ship we had selected for the voyage was the 



Haiti* , ouf of tlmsf pa'atial litu rs famous fur lur un- 
var\ inn stradim-ss an<I frrtilotn frotn unplrasaiu tiintiDti. 
F.v»Tvtliin(s' arouTiil lixikcil sunnv ami sMiiliii;; as wi- 
cmharktil. Tlif morning' had si-t-n its hrst fn-shmss and 
tl\«' uattTs wiTf awakrnod from tluir slt« ]> <>| niijlit Tin- 
hriKht, \vliiti'-win^,'«d sca-^uIN that haunt tin- duAs win- 
ulxmt in liustiTs; whilr, with a >;ra\ it ti»nscii)usniss of 
l)faut\ . ihf swan was drt'ssinj; lur s|i<»tU's>l; whit*' pluni- 
a^v in the mirror of tlu- wavi-. 

8 H. Baltic laarinc LivvriMKjI. 

The quay is now animated with sctnt-s of faiewell part- 
injrs: flowers and fruit are beini; l)orne to the deek in 
artistically arranijed l)askets; officers of the ship sound the 
last note, and all are aboard. The hell ring's the parting 
hour, the ^..n^'ways are unshijjpecl. and slowly jjathering 
way by the iiid of two little tuifs, the proud Baltic steams 
majestiially out of the harbor and takes her course in the 
Channel. The sun has now reached the meridian and we 




an- Hway from all .lv>r!lin«s an.l tlir h»*v hum of 
thr mnrmnv.. n ik.s.ii« «n l^' lran.|uillitv of mnm Ah 
.iti/.-ns of a palatial . itv in th.' s.a w an- MttUni; .|own 
to the usual roun-l of romforts aixl pUasun-s The .In. is 
s^rrnc- the air inviMoratinx- th.- pas^.-nKirs «,. iaolo the 
n-.iu.sitt'H f.)r a huppv voyu^c Tlu' m.m»..T of t.nir.^t^ 
u»Kia.<l is .<,300. an.l if .a. h in.livj.laal will ..niv a.l.l sunu- 
thinw t.. th.- i-nj.>ymint of all. ..ur trip fnnn lun.l l.> lan.l will 
bf urn- of the tnost tn.u.yahle an.l unprtT.-lont.'d in 


Thus far our pU-asurc is Li-inv; •.•..ultipHo.l. Each one 
isrelatinn his or luT'expi-ri.nic in Kun)po. an.l, lue.ll.-ss 
of th.- an.l the ..mrs.-, thi-r- is much mirth at..l uu r- 
riment «mon>; thes.- .l.-niz.-ns ..f th.- soa. wh.. are ^roup.- 1 
in threes an.l f..urs in ev.-ry available ..>rner ..f the 
(U-.-ks. An.l thu.-, U ...ntinue.l till the sun.' alr.-ulv ha!f 
sunk l,.-n.ath a bank of . l.) ha.l tak.-n l.-ave ..f the .lav. 
The lovelv orb of .lav has now .lisappeare.l an.l th.- pr.-lu.h' 
to niKht appears in ^ray : the sha-les ^row heavier an.l 
Ien«theninK awav t.) the eastwanl b.ome .larker it is the 
first steps of niKht hastening to ...nceal the beautv of the 
dav in her sha.le. An pass.-.l. an.l the moon with 
uttermost jjraee rises from a moire anti<|ue-hke couch an.l her eU-Kance ..ver a beautiful scene. It is her first 
appearance in the can.)py oi the nixhi, an.l her supreme 
beauty n^akes her the a.lmire.l of all. Ch. how sweet the 
reverie un.ler a richly mellowed mwn at sea ! 

The next morning the sun appeare.l in his usual splen- 
dor an<l fir.'w hope into a new .lav, We are steaming 
int.. Queenst..wn, better known to <.ur jjray -haired fathers 
as the Cove of Cork, an.l a port which possesses advantages 
unequalled bv anv port in (ireat Britain or Ireland. 
Ten.lers laden with hundreds of passenKcrs and any number 

,SU tH.ofuH TH. .-'H*M. ..tK 


„«.. an.l vrvunv ^^^ J'! ;,„,, „,.,.Jo.. Th.v an- 

Sanay H-h.W ami ^;^^^";^; ^, „.,,,,!. luur ihan nun.-.«.sthi»aMr 

UK-ir nanu-s us cabm .lasscnKc-r, bd.m 

want llu-m turm-.l out, 


brief m.mths, aam.rabk ''^'' '^^ .,{ Kviy,.!- l'^^'^'^" 

,iUe for nu. tu visit ^^e «-!--- "^^^ ,,.,,,„,. ^l- 

jjium Frame, unj,i'iii 

t,... „f thrir m»rvdl,>u, »""-;;™;, , „,„. „,„,rt.nn« 
E„.,ywlur. tl"'^' «■»» "'"" 1,'„„ „,„. my H<- 
;„«rc.s.,n«: c.v.ry h„„r h» i^ -, J ,„^. ,,„.„, „, 
,,,,,„. so .hat « wa,. fc h - . , ^^^ ,^^_^^_^^ ^,,,. ,^ „„ 
,ho .lay wco done, that 1 ru ^^ ^ ^_^^__^,, _„^. ,„„ ,„. 

™„,ai„cd in th,. bo,.W. E _^^^^__,^^__ ^^^. ^,,,..„„ ,„„,. 



Th«>rr i« not it iMHinil in thi* «ir ttthiT thnn ihf nill of a 
pttiMinK car, an'l though wriiffp.-'l in ii !»tilhn"«<» thai hffatlK'* 
<lri*WMni>44 nn\ «l<n<|>, I t'in-l mv'M'lf lini{crini; fonilty urouml 
ihi' "Iwlant l»vriimiil<,lh>' A<T«»iK»li'iof Atlu-ni un<l thv ruinn 
«i( Aniii-nt Knmf Ih-fort- ntc. too. U a j{rovf of Arabian 
palm, fn>m whuh \H-uUni ruh harmony lome runKliiik; with 
thi- Im-fjtr.un'l %uhHi.Iin|{ tht-rr hWaU Krmluallv on mv far 
a Htrnin ^ rhoral musu', whu li a|i|K'ar>i to mmt nullow 
and xwtH't -n iti* imMaKi' .lown thf o|i| luthrdral amie m 
ansiwi'r to tho Ben»-'h«aniU!» Domino Ih-o (Wutian.