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6
A HALF CENTURY AMONG THE
SIAMESE AND THE LAO
A HALF CENTURY AMONG
THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY
By
DANIEL McGILVARY, U.D.
WITH AM APPBBCtATION BT
ARTHUB J. BROWN, D.D.
ILLOBTBATBD
NkwYoie CmcAOo Tobomto
Fleming H. Revell Company
LOMOOK AMD EoiMivmaH
CopyriKlit. 1012, by
FLEMING II. KliVliLL COMrANY
New York: 158 Fifth Avenue
Chicago: 125 N. Wabash Ave.
Toronto: 25 Richmond St., W.
London: 21 Paternoster Sqtwre
Edinburgh: 100 Priacei Street
6
TO
MY WIFE
AN APPRECIATION
ISSIONARY biography is one of the most in-
teresting and instructive of studies. It is,
^ however, a department of missionary litera-
ture to which Americans have not made proportionate
contribution. The foreign missionary Societies of the
United States now represent more missionaries and a
larger expenditure than the European Societies, but
most of the great missionary biographies are of British
and Continental missionaries, so that many Americans
do not realize that there are men connected with their
own Societies whose lives have been characterized by
eminent devotion and large achievement.
Because I regarded Dr. McGilvary as one of tlie great
missionaries of the Church Universal, I urged him sev-
eral years ago to write his autobiography. He was
then over seventy-five years of age, and 1 told him that
he could not spend his remaining strength to any bet-
ter Mvantage to the cause he loved than in preparing
such a volume. His life was not only one of unusual
length (he lived to the ripe age of eighty three), but his
missionary service of fifty-three years covered an inter-
esting part of the history of missionary work in Siam,
and the entire history, t! us far, of the uiissiim to the
Lao people of northern Siam. There is no more
fascinating story in fiction or in that truth which is
stranger than fiction, than the story of his discovery of
a village of strange speech near his station at Pecba-
buri, Siam, his learning the language of the villagers,
his long journey with his friend, Dr. Jonathan Wilson,
1
2 AN AIM'KECIATiON
into what was tlicn tlio unknown region of nortliern
Kiam, pushing his little lumt up the great river and
pausing not until he had gone six hundred milea north-
ward and arrived at the eilv of Chiengniai. The years
that followed were years of toil and i)rivation, of lone-
liness and Sometimes of danger; bin the missionaries
persevered with splendid faith and courage until the
i'ouudations of a [)rosporous Mission were laid.
In all the marked development of the Luo Mission,
Dr. McGilvary was a leader— the leader. He laid the
founiIali(.ns of medical work, introdiuing quinine and
vatcinaliou among a people scourged l)y malaria and
smallpox, a work which has now developed into five
hospitals and a leper asylum. He began educational
work, which is now represented by eight boarding
schools and twenty-two elementary schools, and is
fast expanding into a college, a medical college, and a
theological seminary. lie was the erangelist who won
the first converts, founded the first church, and had a
prominent part in founding twenty other churches,
and in developing a Lao Christian Church of four
thousand two hundred and five adult communicants.
His colleague, Ihe Kev. Dr. W. V. VUnhl says (hat Dr.
McGilvary selected the sites for all the present stations
of the :Mission Imig before committees formally sanc-
tioned the wisdom «)f his choice. Fie led the way into
regions beyond and was the pioneer explorer into the
French Lslo States, eastern Burma, and even up to
the borders of t^iinii. tlo where you will in northern
Siam, or in many sections of the extra Siamese Lao
States, you will find men and women to whom Dr. Mc-
Gilvary first brought the Good News. He well de-
serves the name so fre<inently given him even in bis life-
time- -" The Apo.stle to the Lao."
AN APPRECIATION
3
It was my i)rivilc'p;e to conduct our Board's corre-
spondence with Dr. McCiilvary for more than a decade,
and, in 1U02, to visit bim in his home and to journey
with him throngh an extensive region. I iiave abiding
and tender memories of those memortilile days. lie
was a Christian gentleman of the highest type, a man
of cultivation and refinement, of ability and scholar-
ship, of broad vision and constmctive leadership. His
evangelistic zeal knew no bounds. A toilsome journey
on elephants througii the jungles brought me to a
Saturday night with the weary ejaculation : " Now we
can have a day of rest I " The next morning I slept
late; but Dr. McGilvary did not; he si)ent an hour be-
fore breakfast in a neighbouring village, distributing
tracts and inviting the people to come to a service at
cur camp at ten o'clock. It w as an impressive service,
— under a spreading bo tree, with the mighty forest
about us, monkeys curiously peering through the
tangled vines, the huge elephants browsing the bamboo
tips Iteiiind us, and the wondering people sitting on
the ground, while one of the missionaries told the
deathless story of redeeming love. But Dr. McGilvary
was not [)rcsent. Seventy-four years old though he
was, he had walked three miles under a scorching sun
to another village and was preaching there, while Dr.
Dodd conducted the service at onr camp. And I said:
" If that is the way Dr. McGilvary rests, what does he
do when he works?" Dr. McKean, his associate of
many j'ears, writes :
" No one who has done country evangelistic work
with Dr. McGilvary can ever forget the oft-seen picture
of the gray-haired patriarch seated on the bamboo floor
of a thatch-covered LAo bouse, teaching some one to
read. Of course, the book faced the pupil, and it was
4 AN APPRECIATION
often sflid that he had taught so many people in this
way that he could read the Lao character vorv readily
with the book upside down. Little children in-
stinctively loved him, and it is therefore needless to
say that ho loved thorn. In spite of his loii^' snow-
white beard, never seen in men of this laud and a
strange sight to any LSo child, the children readily
came to him. Parents have boon led to God because
Dr. McGilvary loved thoir ohildron and laid his hands
upon them. In no other capacity was the spirit of the
man more manifest than in that of a shepherd. Al-
ways on the alert for ovri-y opj»ortunity. coimting
neither time nor distance nor the hardshij. of iucleniont
weather, swollen streams, pathless jungle, or impass-
able road, ho followed the example of his Master in
seeking to save the lost. His very last journey, which
probably was the immediate cause of his last illness,
was a long, w arisome ride on horseback, through
nmddy fields and deep irrigating ditches, to visit a
man whom he had befriended many years ago and who
seemed to be an inquirer."
r>r. Mc(Jilvary was pre-eminently a man who walked
with (Jod. Uis piety was not a mere profession, but a
pervasive and abiding force. He knew no greater joy
than to declare the Gospel of his blessed Lord to the
people to wiiose up-lifting he had devoto.l his life.
" If to be great is * to take the common things of life
and walk truly among them,' he was a great man-
great in soul, great in simplicity, great in faith and
groat in love. Siani is tlio richer l)ocanso Daniel Mc-
Gilvary gave her tifty-three years of unselfish service."
Mrs. Curtis, the gifted author of The L<inn of \orth
8iaiii, says <.f Dr. McGilvary: " Neither Carey nor Jud-
son surpassed him in strength of faith and zeal of par-
AN APPRECIATION 6
pose; neither Paton nor Chalmers lias outranked him
in the wonders of their achievements, and not one of
the other hondreds of missionaries ever has had more
evidence of God's blessing upon their woik "
Not only the missionaries but the Lao p< .pic loved
him as a friend and veuerati? i him as a lather. Some
of his intimate friends were the abbots and monks of
the Buddhist iiKiiiastcrics and the high oflBcials of the
country. No oue could know him without recognizing
the nobility of sonl of this saintly patriarch, in whom
was no guile. Decenil . r «t» , 1910, many Americans
and Europeans celebrated the fiftieth anriversary uf his
marriage. The King of Siam through Prince Dam-
rong, Minister of the Interior, sent a congratulatory
message. Letters, telegrams, and gifts poured in from
many dilJerent places. The Christian poople of the
city presented a large silver tray, on which was en-
graved : " Thr Christian people of Chiengmai to Dr.
and Mrs. McCilvary, in memory of your having brought
the Cosjjel of Jesus Christ to us forty-three years ago."
The tray showed in relief the old rest-house where Dr.
and Mrs. McCilvary spent their first two years in
Chienjiiiiai, the residence winch was later their home
of many years, the old dilapidated bridge, and the hand-
some new bridge which spans the rive- opposite the
Christian (Jirls' School— thus symbolizing the old and
the new eras.
The recent tours of exploration by the Rev. W. Clif-
ton Dodd, D.D., and the Rev. John H. Freeman have
disclosed the fact that the Lao ix'oi)ley are far more
numerous and more widely distributed than we had
formerly supposed. Their numbers are now estimated
at from twelve to sixteen millions, 'ind their habitat
includes net only the Lao States of northern Siam but
6
AN APPRECIATION
extensive regions north and northeastward in t!it Shan
States, Southern China, and French Indo-China. Tht
evangelization of tliese peoples is, therefore, an even
larger and more important undertaking than it was
understood to be only a few years ago. All the more
honour, therefore, must be assigned to Dr. McOilvary,
who laid foundations upon which a great superstruc-
ture must now l)e built.
Dr. McGilvary died as he would have wished to die
and as any Christian worker might wish to die. There
was no long illiwss. He continued his great evangel-
istic and literary labours almost to the end. Only a
short time before his death, he made another of his
famoos itinerating journeys, preaching the Gospel to
the outlying villages, guiding perplexed i)eople and
comforting the sick and dying. He recked as little of
personal hardship as he had all his life, thinking
nothing of hard travelling, simple fare, and exposure
to sun, mud, and rain. Not long after his return and
after a few brief days of illness, he quietly "fell on
sleep," his death the simple but majestic and dignified
ending of a great earthly career.
The Lao country had never seen such a funeral as
that which marked the close of this memorable life.
Princes, Governors, and High Commissioners of Btate
sorrowed with multitudes of common people. The
business of Chiengmai was suspended, oiBces were
closed, and flags hung at half-mast as the silent form
of the great missionary was borne to its last resting-
place in the land in which he was the first bringer
of enlightenment, and whose history can never be truly
written without large recognition of his achievements.
Portimatoly, Dr. McGilvary had completed this auto-
biography before his natural powers had abated, and
AN APPRECIATION
7
had sent the manuscript to his brother-in law, Pro-
fessor Cornelius B. Bradley of the University of Cali-
fornia. Dr. Bra. ley, himself a son of a great mission-
ary to Siam, has done bis editorial work with sympa-
thetic insight. It has been a labour of love to him to
put these pages through the press, and every friend of
the Lao people and of Dr. McQilvary is his debtor.
The book itself is characterized by breadth of sym-
pathy, richness of experience, clearness of statement,
and high literary charm. No one can read these pages
without realizing anew that Dr. McOilvary was a man
of fine mind, close observation, and descriptive gifts.
The book is full of human interest. It is the story of
a man who tells about the things that he heard and
saw and who tells his story well. I count it a priv-
ilege to have this opportunity of commending this vol-
ume as one of the books which no student of southern
Asia and of the missionary enterprise can afford to
OTerlook.
Abtucb J. Bbown.
166 FnrTB Atshcb, New Yobk.
PREFACE
YEAKS ago, in tlio absence of any adequate work
upon the subject, tlie ollicers of our Missionary
Board and other friends arged me to write a
book on tlio Lfio Mission. Tlien tbcie appeared Mrs.
L. VV. Curtis' interesting volume, The Imoh of Sorth
Siam, much to be commended for its accuracy and its
valual.le information, especially in view of the anthor's
short stay in the field. But no snch work exhausts its
subject.
I have always loved to trace the providential circum-
stances which led to the founding of the Lao Mission
and directed its earlv history. And It seems important
that before it be too l»te, that early history should be
put into permanent form. I have, therefore, en-
deavoured to give, with some fulness of detail, the
story of the origin and inception of the Mission, and
of its early struggles which culminated in the Edict
of Religious Toleration. And in the later portions of
the narrative I have naturally given prominence to
those things which seemed to continue the character-
istic features and the personal interest of that earlier
period of outreach and adventure, and especially my
long tours into the " regions beyond."
The appearance during the past year of Rev. J. H,
Freeman's An Oriental Lemd of the Free, giving very
full and accurate information regarding the present
status of the Mission, has relieved me of the necessity of
going over the same ground again. I have, therefore,
9
10 PREFACE
been oontenf fo draw my niirrnlive to a close with the
account of uiy last long tour in 18U8.
The work wag nndertaken with many uiiHgivings,
since my early training and the nature of my life-
work liiivc not been the l)est preparation for autliorsliip.
I ilierished the secret hope that one of my own chil-
dren would give the book its final revision for the
press. But at last an appeal was made to my brother-
in-law, Professor Cornelius H. Hriidley of the Tni-
versity of California, whose birth and years of service
in Siam, whose broad scholarship, fine literary taste,
and hearty sympathy with our missionary efforts in-
dicated him as the man above all others best qualified
for this task. His generous acceptance of this work,
and the infinite pains he has taken in the revision and
editing of this book, place me under lasting obligations
to him.
I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness to Dr. W. A.
Briggs and to Rev. J. H. Freeman for the use of maps
prepared by them, and to Dr. Briggs and others for the
use of photographs.
Daniel McQiLVAsr.
April 6, 1911.
Chunomai.
NOTE BY THE EDITOR
IlE task which has fallen to mc in connection
with this book, was undertaken as a labour of
love ; and such it seenus to me even more, now
that it ends in sadness of farewell. It lias not been
an easy task. The vast spaces to be traversed, and
the months of time required before a qiMstion conld
receive its answer, made consultation with the author
almost impossible. And the ever-present fear that for
him the night mipht come before the work could receive
a last revision at his hands, or evm while he was
still in the midst of his story, led nie continually to
urge upon him the need of persevering in his writing —
which was evidently becoming an irksome task — and
on my part to hasten on a piecemeal revision as the
chapters came to baud, though as yet I had no at/Mm-
ure of the whole to guide me.
It iH, tlwrefore, a great comfort tu Icnow that my
urgency and haste were not in vain ; that all of the
revision reached him in time to receive his criticism and
correction — though his letter on the concluding chap-
ter was, as I understand, the very last piece of writing
that he ever did. How serene and bright it was, and
with no trace of the shadow so soon to fall !
But the draft so made had far outgrown the possible
limits of publication, and was, of course, without due
measure and proportion of parts. In the delicate task
of its reduction I am much indebted to the kind sug-
gestions of the Rev. Arthur J. Brown, D.D., and the
11
*3 NOTE BY THE EDITOR
Her. A. W. Tlaliie^r, D.I)., HeeretarieR of tlw Hoard of
Fort'ifjn Missions of ilu. I'leHbyterlan Church, and of
the I{<.v. W. C. l>(Mi(l, n.l).. „r the Lilo Mission, who,
fortunutt'l.v, wtm iu this countr^v, and who read the
manuscript. For what app<>en in thia book, how-
ever, I .ihirie iimst ussiiiiit' (he regponsibility. "An
autobiography ih a peiwoual book, expressive of per-
aonal opinion." And whelher we agree with them or
not, the opiuioDH of a man like Dr. McOllTary, formed
during' a loii^ lif»')iiiie of i lnsc^t rontiict with the mat-
ters whereof he speaks, are an essential part not only
of the history of thoae matteni, but of the portrait of
tlie man, and far more interestin}? than any mere de-
tails of events or seenes. <»ii ill I jjr-iive <iii('stioiis, there-
fore, on which he has expressed his deliberate opinion,
I have preferred to err on the aide of inclusion rather
than exclusion.
The plan adopted iu this volume for spelling Siamese
and LOo words is intended to niak.-» pofisible, and even
cMsy, a r<-;il ap|iroxiiiiiition to the native jtrouruciation.
Only the toual intlections of native speeth ami tlie
Tarleties of aspiration are ignored, as wholly foreign to
our usage and, therefore, unmanageable.
The cimsonant letters used ami tlie digraphs ch and
ng have their comm(jn Kuglish values.
The vowels are as follows:
Long a as in father
e a* in I hey
Tas in pique
o as in rude
n as in rmlr. rood
aw as in laicn
* as in there (without ther)
NOTE BY THE EDITOR 18
ft as in iritrlil ( witlidiit tiio r)
A is the hif/h nii.nd V(iW(>l, not found ill Ellglitb.
It niu^- be { rttnouncctl m u.
Short a M in about (German Jfoiwi)— not aa In hat.
e as in m t
i an iu v/t
o an in ubry (\. Eng. coat)— not as in cot.
u an in pull, foot — not as in hut.
The last fmir juii;,' vowels liavc also Ihcir con'ospond
ing HliorlH, hut sinie tliese rarely occur, it has not lieen
thonjtht wortli while to harden tlie Rcheme witli extra
ciiaractcrs to lepresent them.
Tiie (liplillionps arc coniltinationN of one of these
Towels, heavily stri'sst^d, and nearly always long in
quantity— which make* it Mem to ns exaggerated or
drawled— with a " vanish " of short i, o, (for «), or o.
a» (=Knglish long i, y) and ao (=Engli8h ow) are
the only diphthongs with short initial element, and are
to be diHtinguished from di and do. In deference to
long established nsajje in maps and tl:? like /V is used
in this volume where ia would be the cons- stent spell-
ing, and oi for awi.
A word remains to 1k' said concerning the name of
the people among whom Dr. McGilvary spent hi.s life.
That name has suffered uncommonly hard usage, espe-
cially at the hands of Americans, as the following brief
history vill show. Its original form in European
writing .vas Lao, a fairly accurate transcription by
early French travellers of the name by which the
Siamese call their cousins to the north and east. The
word is a monosyllable ending in a diphthong similar
to that heard in ihe proper names Macdo, Mindanao,
Calldo. In French writing the name often appeared
14
NOTE BY THE EDITOR
in the plural form, hs Laos; the added s, however, be-
ing silent, made no diflference with the pronunciation.
This written plural, then, it would seem, English-
speaking people took over without recognizing the fact
that it was only plural, and made it their standard
form for all uses, singular as well as plural. With
characteristic ignorance or disregard of its proper pro-
nunciation, on the mere basis of its spelling, they have
imposed on it a barbarous pronunciation of their own —
Lay-Ota. It is to be regretted that the usage of Amer-
ican missionaries has been most effective in giving cur-
rency and countenance to this blundt • — has even added
to it the further blunder of using it as the name of the
r^on or territory, as well as of the people. But the
word is purely ethnical— a proper adjective likn our
words French or English, and, like these, capaole of
substantive use in naming either the people or their
language, but not their land. Needless to say, these
errors have no currency whatever among European
peoples excepting the English, and they have very little
currency in England. It seems high time for us of
America to amend not only our false pronunciation,
but our false usage, and the false spelling upon which
these rest. In accordance with the scheme of spelling
adopted in this work, the a of the name LSo is marked
with the macron to indicate its long quantity and
stress.
COBNELIUS BgI^CH BbaOLBT.
BnuoniBT, CALooairiA,
Dacember, 1011.
CONTENTS
I. Childhood and Youth .... 19
n. Ministerial TsAiNiNa .... 36
in. Bangkok 43
IV. Pbchabubi — The Call of the North 63
y. The Chabtbb of thb Lao Mission . . 66
VI, CUIENGMAI 77
VII. PiONKKR Work 84
VIII. FlRSl -FRUITS 98
IX. MABrrv-DOH 102
X. The Rotal Commission . . . .118
XI. Death of Kawiloeot . . . .130
XII. The New Regime 140
XIII. EZPLOBATIOH . . . . .ISO
XIV. First Fublouob 160
XV. MuANQ KSn and Chieno Dao . . . 169
XVI. Seekers After God .... 180
XVIL Thb Rbsidbnt Commissionbb . . .191
XVIIL Witchcraft 199
XIX. The Edict of Religious Toleration . 207
XX. Schools — The Nine Ybabs' Wandebeb 221
XXL Sboond Fublouoh sse
XXII. A StTBTBTINa EzPBDmON . . 844
XXIII. EvANQBLisno Training .... 366
XXIV. Stbugolb with the Powbbs of Dabk-
VMM 966
XXV. Christian Communitikb Plantbd . . 276
XXVI. A Foothold in LampCn .... 289
IS
16
CON'JENTS
XXVII. A Peisonek of Jesus Christ . . 300
XXVIII, Circuit Tour wnu My Dauguteu , 308
XXIX. Lbnothbming tub Cobds and Stbbngth-
KMNG THE Stakes . . , . 320
XXX. Among the Musu Villages — Famine . 338
XXXI. ClUENG KuNG ANU HIE Sll'SAWNG PaNNA 353
XXXII. TUIBD FcBi. ouGH — Station at Cuibno
Rai 370
XXXIII. Tub Regions J!evoni) .... ,180
XXXIV. Thb Closed Uoor 402
XXXV. Conclusion 413
Indbz 431
ILLUSTRATIONS
Danibl McGilvabt .... Fronti^iece
rACING FACE
William J. Bingham 30
Maha Monkut, Kino op Siah, 1851-1872 . . 48
Pagoda of Wat Chkng, HANr.KOK ... 56
Rbv. Dan Beach Bbadley, M.D., 1872 . ' I 7o
KiwrL6BOT, Pbincb of Chibnomai (about 1869) f
A Rest Between Rapids in thb Gobgb of the j
Mb Ping Rivee >• 76
Poling up thb Mb Ping Bivbr . . . ;
Tbmflb of thb Old Tli Sttlb of Abchitbctubb,
Chievgmai 82
A Ckemation Pkocession 146
Intbbiob of a Tbhplb, PbI: 158
An Abbot Pheachin'; 188
Intanon, Pbincb of Cuibngmai . . . )
Eldbb Nan Suwan f
Dr. McGilvaby, 1881 I 238
Mas. McGilvaby, 1881 I
Chulalonokobn, King of Siah, 1872-1910 242
Pbbsbttbby, Retubnino fboh Mbbting in Lakawn 264
Market Scene in Chiengmai . . . )
In the Harvest Field f
GiBLti' School in Chibnohai, 1898 . . . . 284
Rkv. Jonathan Wilson, D.D , 1898 . , . 294
First Chdrch in Chiengmai . . . . )
> 318
Db. McQilv art's Home in Chibnomai . . I
1\Irs. McGiiA AUY, 1803 332
MuBo Pkoplk and Hut nbab Chibng Rai . . 348
17
18 ILLUSTRATIONS
rteina rto*
Groitp of Yunnan Lao ...... 356
PuYA SuKA SiH, Siamese High Commissioner for
THE North 384
Ills Majesty, Maua Vajikavuph, Kin(; of Siam . 424
Dr. and Mrs. McGilvary, Fifty Years after
Thbib Mabbiaob 428
Map of Northbbk Siam Showing Mission Stations 326
Map of Siam 43U
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH
EREDITY and early environment exercise snch
a determining influence in forming a man's
charncter and shaping liis destiny that, with-
out some linowledge of these as a clew, his after-life
would often be unintelligible. And beyond these there
is doubtless a current of events, directing the course
of every man's life, which no one else can see so clearly
as the man himself. In the following review of my
early life, I have confined myself, therefore, to those
events which seem to have led me to my life-work, or
to have prepared me for it.
By race I am a Scotsman of Scotsmen. My father,
Malcom McGilvary, was a Highland lad, born in the
Isle of Skye, and inheriting the marked characteristics
of his race. In 1789, when Malcom was eleven years
old, my grandfather brought his family to the United
States, and established himself in Moore County, North
Carolina, on the headwaters of the Cape Fear River.
The McGilvarys had but followed in the wake of an
earlier immigration of Scottish Highlanders, whose
descendants to this day form a large proportion of the
population of Moore, Cumberland, Richmond, Robeson,
and other counties of North Carolina. My father's
brothers gradually scattered, one going to the south-
western, and two to the northwestern frontier. My
father, being the youngest of the family, remained with
10
20 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
h,d parents on the homestead. The country was then
sparsely settled; communicatiun was slow and uncer-
tain. The scattered members of the family gradually
lost sight of one another and of the home. My mother
belonged to the Mclver clan -from the same regiou of
the Scottish Highlands, and as numerous in North
Carolina as the McGiivarys were scarce. She was
bom in this country not long after the arrival of her
parents.
I was born May 16th, 1828, being the youngest of
seven children. As soon after my birth as my mother
could endure the removal, she was taken to Fayette-
ville, thirty five miles distant, to undergo a dangerous
surgical oi>eration. The journey was a trying one.
Antesthetics were as yet unknown. My poor mother
did not long survive the shock. She died on the 23d
of November of that year.
Since feeding-bottles were not then in use, the
motherless infant was passed around to the care of
aunts and cousins, who had children of like age. Two
aunts in particular, Catharine Mclver and Margaret
McNeill, and a cousin, EfBe Mclver, always claimed a
Bhare in me for their motherly ministrations till, at last,
I could be turned over to my sister Mary. She, though
but six years my senior, was old beyond her years ; and
the motherly care with which she watched over her lit-
tle charge was long remembered and spoken o' ; > he
family.
When I was four years old, my father married bis
second wife, Miss Nancy Mcintosh. The next nine
years, till my father's death, June 8th, 1841, were sp^'nt
in the uneventful routine of a godl^ > ily in a coun-
try home. My father's rigid ideas r' jily discipline
were inherited from his Presbyteri</ ^ ancestors in
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH
21
Scotland, and his own piety was of a distinctly old-
Bchool type. He was a ruling elder in the church at
Buffalo, Fayetteville Pregbytery, in which office he was
succeeded by my brother, Evander, and three others
of bis sons became elders in other churches. No
pressure of business was ever allowed to interfere with
family worship night and morning. A psalm or hymn
from the old village hymnbook always formed part
of the service. My father was an early riser, and, in
the winter time, family worship was often over before
the dawn. Almost every spare moment of his time he
spent in reading Scott's Family Bible, the Philadelphia
Presbyterian, or one of the few books of devotion which
composed the family library. The special treasure of
the book-case was the great quarto Illustrated Family
Bible, with the Apocrypha and Brown's Concordance,
published by M. Carey, Philadelphia, 1815. It was the
only pictorial book in the library, and its pictures were
awe-inspiring to us children — especially those in the
Book of Revelation : — The Dragon Chained, The Beast
with Seven Heads and Ten Horns, and the Vision of
the Four Seals. These and the solemn themes of Rus-
sell's Seven Sermons — which on rainy days I used
to steal away by myself to read — made a profound im-
pression on me.
Scottish folk always carry the school with the kirk.
Free schools were unknown; but after the crops were
"laid by," we always had a subscription school, in
which my father, with his large family, had a leading
interest. The teacher " boarded around " with the
pupils. Our regular night-task was three questions
and answers in the Shorter Catechism — no small task
for boys of ten or twelve years. My memory of the
Catechism once stood me in good stead in after-life.
22 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
When examined for licensure bv the Orange Pres-
bytery, I was asked, " What is man's state by nature? "
In reply I gave the answers to the ninetemth an«!
twentieth questions in the Catechism. A j)erceptible
smile passed over the faces of many of the presbyters,
and Father Lynch said, " He is right on the Catechism.
He will pass." In tLose days to be " right on the
Catechism " would atone for many failures in Hodge
or Turretin.
The charch was at the village of Buffalo, four miles
from our home, but no one of the family was expected
to be absent from the family pew on " the Sabbath."
Carriages were a later luxury in that region. Uur two
horses carried father and mother, with the yoongest
of the little folks mounted behind, till he i^ould be
able to walk with the rest.
The great event of the year was the camp-meeting
at the Fall Communion. It served as an epoch from
which the events of the year before and .ifter it were
dated. For weeks before it came, all work on the
farm was arranged w:th refer^ce to "Buffalo Sacra-
ment"— pronounced with long a in the first syllable.
It was accounted nothing fur pet)ple to come fifteen,
tWOTty, or even forty miles to the meetings. Every pew-
holder had a tent, and kept open house. No stranger
went away hungry. Neighbouring ministers were in-
vited to assist the pastor. Services began on Frid.^/,
and closed on Monday, unless some special interest sug-
gested the wisdom of protracting them further. The
regular order was: A sunrise prayer meeting, break-
fast, a prayer-me» ting at nine, a sermon at ten, an in-
termission, and then another sermon. The sermons
were not accounted of much worth if they w<'re not an
hour long. The pulpit was the tail old fashioned box-
CFIILDHOOn AND YOUTH
23
pulpit with a eounding-board above. For want of
room in the charch, the two Rermons on Sunday were
preached from a stand in the open air. At the close
of the second sermon the ruling elders, stationed in
various parts of the congregation, distributed to the
communicants the ''tokens,'** which admitted them
to the sacramental table. Then, in solemn procession,
the company marche<l up the rising ground to the
church, singing as they went :
Children of the Heavenly King,
As ye journey sweetly sing."
It was a beautiful sight, and we boys nsed to climb the
hill in advance to see it. When the audience was
seated, there was a brief introductory exercise. Then
a hymn was sung, while a group of communicants filled
the places about the communion table. There was
an address by one of the ministers, during the progress
of which the bread and the wine were passed to the
group at the table. Then there was singing again,
while the first group retired, and a second group took
its p^ace. The same ceremony wm repeated for than,
and again for others, until all communicants present
had participated. The communion service must have
occupied nearly two hours. One thing I remember
well— when the children's dinner-time came (which
was after all the rest had dined), the sun was low in
the heavens, and there was still a night service before
us. Notwithstanding some inward reliellion, it seemed
all right then. But the same thing nowadays would
drive all the young people out of the church.
* Th* " token" was a thin square pboe of Umi «*»«■« p*^ wllh Uie
iaitial lettei of liie name of Uie ciiurch.
24 AMOXd Tfli: SIAMFSi: AND TUE LAO
With Noiiio diflidpiuc I vi-nlnro tn ituike ono rrili-
cism on our home life. The " Habbath " was too
rigidly observed to commend itself to the jadgment and
ronscipncp of cliildron — too rigidlj-, |»erhap8, for the
most healthy piety iu adults. It is hard to convince
boys that to whistle on Sunday, even though the tune
be " Old Hundred," is a sin deserving of censure. An
afternoon stroll in the farm or the orchard iiii{;lit even
have claritied uiy father's vision for the enjoyment of
his Scott's Bible at night. It would surely have been
a means of grace to his boys. But such was the Scot-
tish fypf of piety of lho.se days, and it was stronply
held. The family discipline was of the reserved and
dignified type, rather than of the affectionate. Im-
plicit ol)edipnco was the law for children. My father
loved bis children, but never descended to the level
of familiarity with them when young, and could not
sympathize with their sports.
Hnt dark days wore cominp. Brother .John Martin
presently married and moved west. In August, 1840,
an infant sister died of quinsy — the' first death I ever
witnessed. On June 8th. 1841, the father and " house-
bond " of the family was taken away. The inher
itance he left his children was the example of an up-
right, spotless life — of more worth than a legacy of
silver and pnld. These we might have squandered, but
that was inalienable.
At thirteen, I was small for my age — too small to do
a man's work on the farm ;and there was no money witii
which to secure for me an education. Just then oc-
curred one of those casual incidents which often deter-
mine the whole course of one's life. Mr. Roderick Mc-
intosh, one of my mother's cousins, being disabled for
bard work on the farm, bad learned the tailor's trade,
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH
23
and wuH then living in the Tillage of I'ittHburo, twenty-
one miles awaj. His father was a neighboar of onn,
and a man after my fiitlu'i's owd iicart. Tlio two fam-
ilies had thuit alwa^'M been vi-rv intiiiiali'. Wl)!le the
questiun of my destiny wa.s lliu.s iu the batauce, this
cousin, one day, while on a visit to bis father, called at
our hiiuse. fie had iiimiutcd liis horse (o leave, wheu,
turning to ICvauder, he assiied, " What is iJan'l going
to do? " My brother replied, " There he is; ask him."
Tmuing to nie. lie said, " Well, Daii'l, how would you
like to come and live with me? I will teach vou a
trade." I had uever thought of such a thing, uor had
it ever !>een mentioned in the family. But somehow it
struck me favourably, liistinetively 1 replied. " I be
lieve I should like it." A life queHtion could not have
been settled more fortuitously. But it was the first
step on the way to Siaiii and the Liio Mission.
On the last day A-ipust, 1841. I lu.de farewell
to the old home, with I its pleasant a^>sociatious.
Every spot of it was dear, but never so dear as then.
Accompanied by my brother I'vamler. eadi of us riding
one of the old family horses, 1 started out for my new
home. The departure was not utterly forlorn, since
Evander was still with me. But the parting from him,
as he started back next day, was probably the hard-
est thing 1 had ever experienced. 1 had to seek a
quiet place and give vent to a flood of tears. For a
time I was inexpressibly sad. I realized, as never be-
fore, that I was cut loose from the old moorings — was
alone in the world. But the sorrows of youth are soon
assuaged. No one could have received a warmer wel-
come in the new home than I did. There were two
children in the family, and they helped to till the void
made by the separation.
26 AMONG HIE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
I'itUbui'u wuH uut a large village, but us uutluok was
broader than that of my home. The world seemed
larger. I uiyHolf felt larger tliuu I hud done us a
rouulry hny. 1 iH-anl «liseus.siou ui pulitics uud of the
que.slionH of (be da^. Tim touuty was strongly Whig,
but Mr. Mcintosh was an nnyielding Democrat, and as
fond of arj^utnent as a politician. According to south-
ern custoiii, stores and shops were favourite rcsortH for
passing away idle time, and for sharpening the wits of
the villagers. The recent Presidential campaign of
IS to fiirniHhcd onending themes for discussion in onr
little shop.
There was no Presbyterian church in Pittsboro at
that time. The church-going population was divided
between the MethodiHt and the Kpiscopalian churches,
the former l>eing the larger. With my cousin's family
I attended the Methodist church. On my first Sonday
I joined the Methodist Sunday School, and that school
was the next importanc link in my chain of life. Its
special feature was a system of prize*^. A c<^rtaiu n<iin-
ber of perfect answers secured a blue ticket; ten of these
brought a yellow ticket; and yellow tickets, according
to the number of them, entitled the possessor to various
prizes — a hymnbook, a Bible, or the like. On the
first Sunday I was put into a class of boya of my
own age, at work on u little primer of on«, hundred
Hnd six questions, all answered in monosyllables. By
the next Sunday I was able to recite the whale, to-
gether wi«h the Lord's I'ra\or and the Apostles' Creed
at the end. It was no great feat; but the teacher and
the school thought it was. So, on the strength of
my very first lesson, I got a yellow ticket, and was
promoted to tlic next higher class. That stimulated
my auibitiuu, aiiU i Uc^ulcd Ui^ e\eiy spare Itouc to
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH
27
ttndy. The next book was one of qumtionM and as*
■wen on the fonr OoRpels. They wvrv wry eaty; I
wiis alilc I" cfiiiiniif li> iiiciiiorv scvcriil liniulicd iinswtTS
diiiing the wetk. iu a ifW Sundays I gut my llrst
prize ; and it was not long before I had secured all the
prizt'H olTt'red iu tlie 8t'hool. Wliut wiis of far iii(»ro
valiu' than the prizw was Mn' jjii-aiiT love for Ntiidy
aud for (lie jScripturt's wliicii liie ttlort Ijad awalieiied
in me, and a desire for an education. The shop was
often idle ; I liad ploity of tin^ for study, and made
the most of it.
At one of the subsequent Quarterly Meetings, a Rev.
Mr. Drainard, who hail considoraltlc reputation qh a
revivalist, preached one Stunlay nijilit a vivid and
thrilling seruiun on Noah's Ark aud the Flood. 80
mari^ed was the impression on the audience, that, at
the close, according to the Methodist cnstoni, '' nioiirn-
ers" were invited to the altar. Many accepted tiie in-
vitation. A young friend sitting beside me was greatly
affected. With streaming eyes he said, Dan'l, let us
pi>. for." risinti; up :>"d starlinf as he spoke. After
a few uiumeutti 1 iollowed. liy this time the space
about the altar was well fllk 1. There was great excite-
ment and no little confusion — exhortation, singing, and
prayer going ou all at once. A nundier of [)ersons
made profession of religion, and soon my young friend
joined them. He was full of joy, and was surprised
to find that I was not so, too. The nieotings were con-
tinued night after night, aud each night I went to the
altar. As I look back upon it from this distance, it
seems to me that, with much exhortation to repent
and believe, there was not enough of clear and definite
instruction regarding the plan of salvation, or the of-
fices and work of Christ. One night, in a quiet hour
/
28 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE L^O
at home, the grounds and method of a sinner's ac-
ceptance of Christ became clear to me, and He became
my Lord.
Soon after, when invitation was given to the new con-
verts to join the church as probationers, I was urged
by some good friends to join with the rest; and was
myself not a little inclined to do so. It was no doubt
the induence of my cousin that enabled me to with-
stand the excitement of the revival and the gentle
pressure of my Methodist friends, and to join, instead,
my father's old church at Buffalo. But I owe more
than I shall ever linow to that Sunday School, and
since then I hare always loved the Methodist Church.
Meanwhile the prospects for an education grew no
brighter, though Mr. Brantley, then a young graduate
in charge of the Pittsboro Academy, but afterward a
distinguished Baptist minister of Philadelphia, gave
me a place in his school at idle times; and a Dr. Hall
used to lend me boolis to read.
When the opportunity for acquiring an education
finally came, i*^ was as unexj»ected as a clap of thun-
der out of a blue sky. The celebrated Bingham School,
now in Asheviile, N»)rth Carolina, was then, as now, the
most noted in the South. It was started by Rev. Will-
iam Bingham in Pittsboro, North Carolina, in the
closing years of the eighteenth century. It was moved
to Hillsboro by his son, the late William J. Bingham,
father of the present Principal. The school was
patronized by the leadinfj families of the South. The
number of pupils was strictly limited. To secure a
place, application had to be made a year or more in
advance.
My surprise, therefore, can well be imagined, when
one day Baccus King, a young boy of the town, walked
cniLnnooi) and youth
29
into the shop v ith a letter addressed to Master Daniel
McGilvary tiou) no J^ss a personage than William J.
Bingham, <be great tea. .< r and Principal. At first I
thought I i\4'.>s the V'cti.u of some boyish trick, lint
there was f^t i: s 'jjnaturr, and the explanation that fol-
lowed removed all duubt. Nathan Btedman, an in-
flii('nti;il citizen of Pittshoro, was an early acquaintance
and friend of Mr. Hingham. He had visited the school
in person to secure a place for his nephew, young
King, and bad brought back with him the letter for
me. What Mr. Bingham knew of me T never dis-
covered. No doubt Mr. Stedman could have told,
though up to that time I had never more than spoken
with him. Be that as it may, there was the letter
with its most generous otFer that I take a course in
Bingham School at the Principal's expense. He was
to board me and furnish all necessary expenses, which,
after graduation, I was to refiind Iiy teaching. Tf I
became a minister of the Gospel, the tuition was to be
free; otherwise I was to refund that also. To young
King's enquiry what I would do, I replied, " Of course,
I shall go." My cousin. Mr. Mcintosh, was scarcely
less delighted than 1 was at the unexpected opening.
The invitation to attend Bingham School came in
the fall of 184.'5, when I was in my eighteenth year.
There were then only two weeks till the school should
open. I had little p -eparation to make. A pine box
painted red was soon got ready to serve as a trunk, for
my wardrobe was by no means elaborate. Mr. Sted-
man kindly offered me a seat with Baccus and a friend
of his who was returning to the school. On the way
Baccus' friend entertained us with stories of the rigid
discipline, for th.s was in the days when the rod was
not spared. I had no fears of the rod, but I trembled
30 AMONG THE SIAME?<E AND THE LAO
lesf T should not sustain luysolf as well as such great
kindness demanded. It might be a very ditlerent thing
from winning a reputation in a Methodist Sunday
School.
It was dusk when we reached Tlie Oaks. The fam-
ily was at supiH-T. Mr. liingham tame out to receive
us. He told Baccus' friend to take him to his own old
quarters, and, turning to nie, said, " I have made ar-
rangements for you to board with Mr. C, and to room
with Mr. K., the assistant teacher, till my house is fin-
ished, when you are to live with us. But we are at
supper now. You must be hungry after your long
ride. Come in and eat with us." After supper, Mr.
Bingham went with me to my boarding-house, and
introduced me to my hosts and to my chum, David
Kerr. He welcomed me, and said he thought we
should get along tinely together. We not only did
that, but he became a warm friend to whom I owed
much. 80 I was in the great liingham School, over-
whelmed with a succession of unexi)ected kindnesses
from so many quarters ! What did it all mean?
My highest anticipations of the school were realized.
If there ever was a born teacher, William J. Bingham
was one. Latin and Greek were taught then by a
method very different from the modern one. Before a
sentence was i-ead or translate<l, the invariable direc-
tion was— master your grammar. In grammar-drill
Mr. Bingham could have no superior. Bullion's
Grammars and Readers were the text-books. The prin-
cipal definitions were learned practically verbatim.
The coarse print was required of all in the class. The
older pupils were advised to learn notes, exceptions,
and all. I never became so familiar with any other
books as with that series of grammars. We were ex-
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH
31
pected to decline every noun and adjective, alone or
combined, from noniinativo sinpjular to ablative plural,
backwards ur forwards, and to give, at a nod, voice,
mood, tense, number, and person of any verb in the
lesson. Tiii'se exercises became at last so easy that
they weiv j;reat fun. Even now, sixty years later, I
often put myself to sleep by repeating the old para-
digms.
It may seem that my estimate of Mr. IJingliaia is
prejudiced by my sense of personal obligation to him
for his kindness. Yet I doubt not that the universal
verdict of every one who went there to study would
be that he should be tated as one of the world's
greatest teachers. The South owes much to him for
the dignity he gave to the profession of teaching. No
man ever left a d(H'per impress on nic. Thousands of
times I have thanked the Lord for the opportunity to
attend his school.
I was graduated from the school in May, 1849, a few
days before I was twenty -one yeai's old. On leaving
my kind friends at The Oaks, I was again at sea. It
will be remembered that, by my original agreement, I
was booked for teaching — but I had no idea where.
Once more the unexpected happened. In the midst
of negotiations for a school in the southern part of
the state, I was greatly surprised at receiving an offer
from one of the prominent business men f)f my own
town, Pittsboro, to assist me in organizing a new
school of my own there. With much doubt and hesita-
tion on my part — for there wei'e already two prepara-
tory schools in I he place — the venture was made, and
I began with ten pupils taught in a little business of-
fice. The number was considerably increased during
the year. But when the second year opened, I was put
32 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
in charge of the Acadeuiy, whose Principal had re-
signed. Hero, ill work both i)leasant and fairly profit-
able, I remained uotil the four jears for which I had
agreed to stay were up.
I had by no means reached my ideal. Bat, as my
friends had itrcdicted, it had been a success. Some
of niy warmest supporters were sure that 1 was giv-
ing up a certainty for an uncertainty, in not making
teaching my life-work. It had evidently been the
liope of my friends from the first that i would make
Pittsboro my home, and build up a large and perma-
nent school there. But my purpose of studying for
the ministry had never wavered, and that made it
easier for me to break off.
During these four years my relations with the newly
organized Presbyterian church had been most pleas-
ant and profitable. Thore was no resisting the appeal
that 1 should become ruling elder. The superintend-
ency of the Sunday School also fell naturally to me,
and opened up another field of usefulness. The friend-
ship formed with the pastor, the Rev. J. H. McNeill,
Is one of the pleasant memories of my life.
One feature of the church connection must not be
passed over. Neither of the other elders was so cir-
cumstanced as to be able to attend the meetings of the
Orange Presbytery. Three of the leading professors
in the University were members of the Presbytery, and
all the leading sc'iools within its bounds were taught
by Presbyterian miuisterf? or elders. To accommodate
this large group of teachers, the meetings were held in
midsummer and midwinter. Thus it fell to my lot to
represent the Pittsboro church at the Presbytery dur-
ing nearly the whole of the four years of my stay in
Pittsboro. As it was then constituted, its meetings
CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH 83
were almost equal to a course in church government.
The Rev. J. Doll, oue of the best of p-irliamentarians,
was stated clerk. A group of members such as the
two Drd. Phillips, father and son, Dr. Elisha Mitchell,
of the University, and many others that could be
named, would have made any assembly noted. Pro-
fessor Charles Phillips, as chairman of the committee
on candidates for the ministry, came into closer tonch
with me than most of the others. Tie afterwards fol-
lowed my course in the Seminary with an interest
ripening into a friendship which continued throughout
his life.
The meetings of the Presbytery were not then
merely formal business meetings. They began on
Wednesday and closed on Monday. They were looked
forward to by the church in which they were to be
held as spiritual and intellectual feasts. To the mem-
bers themselves they were seasons of reunion, where
friradships were cemented, and where wits were sharp-
ened by intellectual conflicts, often before crowded con-
gregations.
Union Seminary, now of Richmond, Vii^nia, has
always heen under the direction of the Synods of North
Carolina and Virginia; and there were strong reasons
why students from those Synods should study there.
They were always reminded of that obligation. But
the high reputation of l)rs. Hodge and Alexander was
a strong attraction toward Princeton. My pastor and
Professor Phillips, chairman of the committee in charge
of me, had both studied there. So I was allowed
to have my preference. No doubt this proved another
stepping-stone to Siam. Union Seminary was not then
enthusiastic in r^rd to foreign missions, as it has
since become. At the last meeiing of Presbytery
34 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
that I was to attend. Dr. Alexander Wilson moved that,
inasmuch as Orange Proshvtery owned ;i si lutlarsliip in
rrinceton Sorninary, I be assigned t<» it. To my ob-
jection that I liad made money to pay my own way,
he replied, " Yon will have pleuty of ni-ed of your
iiioTicy. You ran buy books with it." 1 followed the
suggestion and laid in a good library.
II
MINISTERIAL TRAINING
1 ENTERED Princeton fc>kjininary in the fall of
1853. I did not lodge in the Seminary building,
but, through the kindness of Kcv. Daniel
Dcrnuclle — whom, as ajjeut of tlie American Bible So-
ciety, 1 had come to know during his visits to I'itts-
boro — I found a charming home in his family. Ttere
were, of course, some disadvau(a}j;es in living a mile
and a half away from the Seminary. 1 could not have
the same intimate relations with my fellow Btudents
which I might hare had if lodged in the S«ninary.
But I had the delightful uornc-life which most of them
missed altogether. And the compulsory exercise of
two, or sometimes three, trips a day, helped to keep
me in health throughout my course. I became, indeed,
a flrst rat' walker — an accomplishment which has since
stood me lu good stead in all my life abroad.
Being from the South, and not a college graduate, as
weit; most of the students, I felt lonesome enough
when, on the first morning of the session, I entered
the Oratory and looked about me without discovering
a single face that I knew. But at the close of the
lecture some one who had been told by a friend to look
out for me, touched me on the shoulder, made himself
known, and then took me off to introduce me to J.
Aspinwall Hodge, who was to be a classmate of mine.
No man ever had a purer or a better friend than this
85
36 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
young irnn, afterward Dr. J. ARpinwall Hodge; and
I never iiit t ii friend iiiori' oppnrliinely.
Of our revered (eaehers and of the Htudics of the
Seminary course there is no need to speak here. Onr
class was a slrou}? one. Aiiioiij; its luemlHirs were such
men as (Javlev. .Mills, .lonatluin W ilson, Nixon, I-efevre,
and ("haney. Of these (layley and .Mills were already
candidates for missionary work abroad. In other
cliisscs were Robert McMullen and Isidore Loewen-
thai, destined to become martyrs in Cawnpore and
I'eshawur. Many were the stirring apiKjals we heard
from these men. Dr. Charles Hodge, too, had given a
son to India; and lie nevcM- s[iok(' iimre Impressively
than when he was pleading the cause of foreign uiis-
sior" Princeton, moreover, because of its proximity
tr> ■ York and to the headquarters of the various
missionary societies establisluMl then', was a favourite
field for the visits of the Seci-etaries of these organi-
zations, and of returned missionaries. A notable visit
during my first year was that of Dr. .Mexander HufT,
tlien in is prime. No one who heard him could forget
his s( iiing criticism of the church for "playing at
missions,"' or his impassioned apix;al8 for labourers.
So the question was kept constantly before me. lUit
during the first two years, the difiiculty of the ac-
quisition of a foreign language by a person not gifted in
his own, seemed an obstacle well-nigh insuperable.
Conscience suggested a compromise. Within the field
of Home Missions was there not equal need of men
to bring the bread of life to those who were perishing
without it? With the object of finding some such op-
portunity, I spent my last vacation, in the summer of
1855, in Texas as agent of the American Socday School
Union.
M1NI8TE11IAL TKAININO
37
Texas affordc tl, indtt-d, j;ic;it upiMirtiinitics for (^hris-
tiuu work; but in tuc one object of tiuewt— u field
wltere Christ was not preached— I was disappointed.
In every small village there was already a *liurfh —
ofh'ti iiioic tliini one. Kvcii in country s<iuHilliousen
MetbodiHts, I'apti.sts, and Cumberland i'resbyteriaus
had regular Sunday appointments, each having ac-
quired ehiim to a particular Sunday nf the month.
♦Jonditioua were such tbat tbe growth of one sect usu-
ally meant a corresponding weakening of the others.
It was possible, of course, to find lixal t xctplions.
ISut it is easier even now tt> liiid viliaj;es l)y tiie liun-
dred, with three, four, and even five I'rotestant
churches, aided by various missionary societies ; where
all the inhabitants, working togetlier, could do no more
than support one church well. This may be neces-
sary; but it is surely a great waste.
Prom this trip I had just returned with these
thoughts in my mind, and \.as entering upon niy senior
year, when it was announced that Dr. 8. U. House, a
missionary from Siam, would address the students.
Expectation was on tij^toe to hear from this new
kingdom of Siani. Tiic address was a revelation to us
all. The opening of the kingdom to American mis-
sionaries by the reigning monarch, Maha Mongkut —
now an old story— was new then, and sounded like a
veritable romance. My liesitation wns ended. Here
was not merely a village or a parish, but a whole
kingdom, just waking from its long, dark, hopeless
sleep, livery sermon I preached tlwiv might be to
those who had never heard that there is a God in heaven
who made them, or a Saviour from sin.
The appeal was for volunteers to go at once. None,
however, of the mca who had announted themselves as
38 AMOXU TUl'. SIAMKSE AND Till: I.AO
caiKlitlalcs for scrvicf iiliniihl \v<>n' iiv;iiliil»lf I'dr Siatn.
They wore all i»U'dged to »»tliitr tields. The call fuuud
Jonathan VVllHon and myself In much the name state
of expectancy, wailing for a ch'iir revelation of diit.v.
AfitT anxiouH eousiiltaliou and prayer together, and
with Dr. House, we promis«'d hiiii tliat we would n'lve
the matter oar most serions thought. If the Lord
should lead us tliiliici'. we wnnid <ii>.
Meanwiiile the Kev. Andrew 15. Morse had been ap-
pointed a missionary to Binm, and the immediate
urgency of the ease was thus lightened. Shortly l>e
fore the close oi" my Seminary «M)nrHe, in IS.'t!, there
came to me a call to the j.istorate of two contiguous
churches, those of Carthage and of Union, in ray native
county in North Carolina. The call stcuKd a pnivi
dential one, and 1 accepted it for one year only. My
classmate, Wilson, soon after accepted a call to work
among the Indians in Spencer Academy.
My parish was an admiraMe one for the haininji of
a young man. The church at Union was one of the
oldest in the state. The church at Carthage, five
miles away, was a colony fmiii Tnion. No disliiicl
geographical line separated the two. Many of the
people regularly attended both. That, of course, made
the work harder for a young pastor. The extreme
limits of the two parislies wtrc fifteen miles apart.
But these were church going lulk, mostly of Scottish
descent— not "dry-weather Christians." The pastor-
ate had l)een vacant a whole year.
the first morning service the church was crowded
to its ut""^8t capacity. Some came, no doubt, from
cariosity •' hear the new preacher; but most of them
were hungry for the Gospel. They had all known
my father; and some had known me — or known of me
MINISTKUIAL TKAINIXCJ
39
— front IxpvIkhmI. I (<)iil<i not avp had n more «Tm-
Iiullit'tii niuli»'U''i', iiH 1 loarut'ii fr< ja tUc words <»f ap-
preciation and encouragenmit spoken to me after
cliiirdi— ('S|H'oiaIly those apedccn hj my br^lMr, who
was preHcut.
The year pasoed rai)iill\. Tbe worli bad in .--pered
and was delightful. In it I formed tiie taste for
pviuip<'liKtio touriT'tr. w' ici « afterwards ii- hf 'ny
work among tlic Lw. Tiicr- Lad iieen a nuiiil)cr of
acceasiona in both charoh<>«< It whr eaay to become
engrossed in one' lirsf charpr anionf.' a p<" plo so sym-
pathetir, iiul fo ovorlook faraway Siani. Indeed, I
had becoihu mt far intiuenml I. -rfsent siurnnmd-
ings as to allow my nanw to b- < . before a meet-
ing of tli(> corifrtvf::!! ion wifli a view ,,, iccomiTiu t[w\r
permaueul paslor. Their rhoiie uf uie was unanimous.
Moreover, I had been dismisfied from my old Pres-
bytery to the one within whose bounds my parish
was. Tlio rcpjnlar iiifH'linfi <■( tin latter was not far
off, when arraiigeincnts were to made for my ordina
tion and installation.
As the time drew iii>ar. do wli.it I rnifrht, my joy
in arcepting the call seemed marred by the thought
of Siam. T learned that the Siamese Mission, in-
stead of f;rf)win<; stronjjer, was hwoming weaker. Mr.
Morse"^ 'calth li;id coinpletcly broken down during
his first year in »he field. He was then returning to
the United Staten. Mrs. Mattoon had already come
back an inTalid. Her bnsband, after ten years in
Siam, was gr-eatly in need of a change; bnt was
holding on in desperation, hoping against hope that
he might be relieved.
The question of my going to Siam, which had been
left an open one, most now soon be settled by my ac-
^1
i \
I i
40 AMONG TOE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
cepting or declining. I nooded counsel, but knew not
on what earthly source to tall. When the question of
Siam flrst came up in Princeton, I had written to lead-
ing nionibers of the Orange Pri'sbytery for advice, stat-
ing the claims of Siam so strongly that I was sure
these men would at least give me some encouragement
toward going. Hut the reply I had from one of them
was typical of all the rest : " We do not know about
Siam; but we do know of such and such a church
and of such and sach a field vacant here in Orange
Presbytery. Still, of course, it may \xi your duty to
go to Siam." In that quarter, surely, there was no
light for me. So I devoted Saturday, August 1st, to
fasting and prayer for guidance. In the woods back
of the Carthage church and the Acadony, the decision
was finally reached. I would go.
Next morning I stopped my chief elder on his way
to church, and informed him of my decision. After
listening to my statement of the case, he replied, " Of
course, if it is settled, there's nothing more to be said."
It chanced that Mr. Rnssell, my former assistant in
the Pittsboro Academy, had just finished his theo-
logical course; and, wholly without reference to the
question pending in my mind, had arranged to preach
for me that day. The session was called together be-
fore service, was notified of my decision, and was re-
minded that the preacher of the day would be avail-
able as a snccessor to me. He preached a good ser-
mon, had a conference with the session afterwards, and
was virtuallv engnjred tliat day. The following week
brought notice of my appointment as missionary to
Siam.
The Inst communion season of that year wns one of
more than usual interest. The meetings began on
MIVISTERIAL TRAINING 41
Friday. Since the minds of the congregation were
already on the subject of foreign missions, and since
Dr. McKay, from my home church, had been appointed
by the 8ynod to preach on that subject at its coming
session in Charlotte, I prevailed upon him to preach
to lis the sermon tliat he had prepared. The text was
from Romans x:14, "How shall tliey hear without a
preacher?" No subject could have been more ap-
propriate to the occasion. It produced a profound
impression. Some were affected to tears.
The sermon was a good preparation for the com-
munion service that followed. At the night service
there was deep seriousness throughout the congrega-
tion, and a general desire to have the meetings con-
tinued. On Monday tliere was an unexpectedly large
congregation. At the busiest season of the year fann-
ers had left their crops to come. The meetings soon
grew to be one protracted prayer meeting, with occa-
sional short applications of Scripture to the questions
which were already pressing upon our minds.
Finally, after the meetings had been continued from
Friday until Wednesday week, they were reluctantly
brought to a close; both because it seemed unwise to
interruj»t longer the regular life of the community,
and also because the leaders no longer had the voice
to carry them on. As a result of the meetings, there
were about eighty accessions to the two Presbyterian
churches, as well as a number to other churches. Many
asked if I did not see in the revival reason to change
my mind and remain. But the eflfect on me was just
the opposite. It was surely the best preparation I
could hav- had for the long test of faith while waiting
for results in Siara.
Inasmuch as my certificate of dismissal had never
42 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
been lormally presented to the FayetteviUe Presbytery,
I preferred to return it to my old Orange Presbytery,
and to receive my ordination at its hands. On De-
cember 11th. the P-esbvtery met at my old home in
Pittsboro. The installation of a foreign missionary
was new to the Presbytery, as well as to the church
and the connnnnity. When the ordaininp prayer was
ended, there seemed to be but few dry eyes in the con-
gregation. It was a day I had little dreamed of six-
teen years before, when I first came to Pittsboro an
orphan boy and an apprentice. I felt very small for
the great work so solemnly committed to me. Mis-
sionary fields were further off in those days than they
are now, and the tsnd'^rtaking seemed greater. The
future was unknown; bat in God was my trust— and
He has led hxe.
Ill
BANGKOK
N reaching New York I went directly to the
Mission Honse, then at 23 Centre Street. As I
mounted the stops, tlio first man I met on the
landing was Jonathan Wilson. We had exchanged a
few letters, and each knew that the other had not for-
gotten Siam; but neither expected to meet the other
thore. "Where are you going?" sai one. "I am
ou my way to Siam," said the other. " 80 am 1,"
was the reply. In the meantime he bad married and,
with his young wife, was in New York awaiting
passage. We took the first opportunity that offered,
the clipper ship David Brown, bound for Singapore,
and sailing on March 11th, 1858.
Sailors have a tradition that it is unlucky to have
missionaries on board; but the weather was propitious
throughout, and the voyage a prosi)erou8 one. We
three were the only passengers, and we proved to be
good sailors. Our fare was reasonably good. We
had plenty of good reading, and soon settled down to
steady work. The ship was somewhat undermanned;
and this fact was given as an excuse for not having
service on Sundays. Hut we had a daily prayer-meet-
ing throughout the voyage, with just a sufficient num
ber present to plead the promise : " W^here two or three
are ^athereil together in niy name." Wc also had
fri-e access to the men in the forecastle when off duty.
We had the excitement of an ocean race with a twin
43
44 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE L.iO
ship of Ihe sjiiiio liue, wliieb was to sail a wcoli after
us. As we reatlied Anjer Straits on the seventy-eighth
day out, a sail loomed up which proved to be our com-
ixititor. She liad heaten us by a week! Ten days
later we reached Singapore, where, indeed, we met no
brethren, but were met by welcome lett»8 from Siam.
Like I'aul at the Three Taverns, " we thanked God and
took courage.'' One of the letters ran thus :
" Those w'cro frood wordis that came to our half-discouraged
band— the tidings that we are to have helpers in our
work. ... In our loneliness we have sometimes heeu
tempted to feel that our brethren at home had forgotten
us. But we rejoice to know that there are hearts in the
(•hurpii wlii. h sympathize with us, and that you are willing
to come and participate with us in our labours and trials,
our joys and Borrows, for we have both."
We were fortunate to secure very early passage for
r.anjikdk. On Friday, .Tune tSth, we reached the bar
at the mouth of the Menaiu Kiver. The next day we
engaged a small schooner to take us up to Bangkok.
With a strong tide against us, we were uot able that
evening to get further than Mosciuito I'diut— the most
appropriately named plate in all that land— only to
learn that we could not reach Bangkok until Monday
afternoon. There was no place to sleei* on board ; and
no sleeping would have been possible, had thei-e been
a place. By two o'clock in the morning we could
endure it no longer; — the mosquito contest was too
iHK'qual. .Vt last we found a man and his wife who
would lake us to the city in their two-oared skiff.
Fifty years' residence in Siam has not surpassed the
romance of that night's ride. Leaving our goods be-
hind, we seated ourselves in the tiny craft. With gun-
wales but two inches above the water's edge, we
BANGKOK
45
Rkiinnipd alonp; through a narrow winding oiinal over-
hung with strange tropical trees. The moon was full,
but there was a haze in the air, adding weirdness to
things but dimly seen. The sight of our first Buddhist
monastery, with its while columns and grotesque fig-
ures, made us feel as if we were passing through some
fairyland.
Just at dawn on Sunday morning, June 20th, 1858,
we landed at the mission compound. Our quiik
passage of only one hundred days took our friends by
surprise. Dr. House, roused by our voices on the
veranda, came en ih'shnbillc to the door to see wluit
was the matter. Finding who we were, the eager man
thrust his hand through a vacant square of the sash,
and shook hands with us so, before he would wait to
open the door. We were in Rangkok! It was as if
we had waked up in a new world— in the Bangkok to
which we had looked forward as the goal of our hopes ;
which was to be, as we suppowd, tlio home of our lives.
The Rev. Mr. Mattoon was still at his post, awaiting
our coming. Mrs. Mattoon and her daughters had
been toiiipelled to leave for home some time before our
arrival. And not long thereafter Mr. Mattoon fol-
lowed them on his furlough, long overdue. IJesides
the two men of our own mission, we found in Bangkok
the Rev. Dan B. Bradley, who was conducting
a self-supporting mission; Rev. S. J. Smith, and Rev.
R. Telford of the Baptist mission.
Since neither Bangkok nor Lower Siam proved to
be my permanent home, I shall content myself with a
very summary account of the events of the next three
y«irs.
The first work of a new missionary is to acquire the
language of the country. His constant wish is, Ob
46 AMONG THE SIAMESE AN!1 T^IE LAi)
for a gift of tongues to speak to the people ! As soon
as a teaclier could be found, I settled to work at my
kaic, kd, ki, kU No ambitious Ireshiuun has such an
incentive for study as has the new missionary. It is
well if he does not coutine himself to granuiuir and
dictionary, as lie did iu the case of his liatin, (Ireek,
and Hebrew. I'allegoix's Dictionariuiii Linyuav Thai,
and his short Grammar in Latin, were all the foreign
helps we had. The syntax of the lanfjuage is easy;
but the " tones," the " aspirates," and *' inaspirates,"
are peritle-xing beyond belief. You try to say "fowl."
No, that is egg." You mean to say " rice," but you
actually say " mountain."
A thousand times a day the new missionary longs to
open his mouth, but his lips are sealed. It is a mat-
ter of continual iv<;\\'l that he cannot pour out his
soul in the ardour of his tirst love, unchilled by the
deadening intluences to which it is sure to be sub-
jected later. But the delay is not an unmitigated
evil. He is in a new world, in which he is constantly
reminded of the danger of giving offence by a breach
of custom as unalterable as the laws of the Medes and
Persians. A bright little boy runs up and salutes you.
You stroke his long black hair, only to be reminded
by one of your seniors — " Oh! you must micr do that!
It is a mortal offence to lay your hand on a person's
head." So, while you are learning the language, you
are learning other things as well, and of no less im-
portance.
In the mission school there was a class of bright
boys named Ne, Dit, (Mifin, Kwai, Henry, and one
girl, Tuan. To my great delight. Dr. House kindly
turned them over to me. It made me think I was
' The first excrctsc of the Siamese 8pe!llng-book.
I5A\(iK()K
47
doing sometliiug, and 1 really was. I soon became
deeply interested in these children. N6 grew to be an
important busintss man and an elder in the church;
Tuan's family betamo one of the most iulluential in
the cburtb. Iler two sous, tbe lale I'.uu It and Elder
Bun Yi of the First Church in Chiengmai, have been
among the very best fiuils of the mission; though my
personal share in their training was, (tf oours*', very
slight. In the yepteniber after our arrival there was
oi^anjzed the Presbytery of Siam, with the four mm
of the mission as its constituent members. During tbe
first Iwo years, moreover, I made a number of tours
about the country— sometimes alone, oftener with Dr.
House, and once with Mr. Wilson.
I bad the pleasure of meeting His Majesty the King
of Sianj, not only at his birthday celebrations, to
which foreigners were invited, but once, also, at a
public audience on the occasion of the presentation
of a letter from President James IJuchanan of the
United States. This was through the courtesy of Mr.
J. H. CJhandler, the acting United States Consul. Two
royal state barges were sent down to the Consulate to
receive the President's letter and the consular party.
Siamese etiquette requires tbnt the letter be accorded
the same honour as would be given the President in per-
son. In the first barge was the letter, placed in a
large golden urn, with a pyramidal cover of gold, and
escorted by the four officers who attend upon Hia
Majesty when he ai)pears in public. In the second
barge was the consular party.
After a magnificent ride of four miles up the river,
we wei-e met at the palace by gilded palanquins for
the members of the party, while the letter, in a special
palanquin and under the golden umbrella, led the way
48 AMONG TIIR 8IAMi:sR AND THE LAO
to the I'alace, some quarter of a mile distant. At the
Palace gate a prince of rank met and nshered ub
into the royal presence, where His Majesty sat on his
throne of gold, richly overhung with gilded tapestry.
Advancing toward the throne, and bowing low, we
took our stand erect, while every hig^ prince and noble-
man about IIS was on l)ended kaem, not daring to raise
his eyes above the tioor.
The Consal then read a short introductory speech,
stepped forward, and placed the letter in the extended
hands of the King. Having glanced over it, the King
handed it to his secretary, who read it aloud, His
Majesty translating the substance of it to the princes
and nobles present. The King then arose, put his
scarf about his waist, girded on his golden sword,
came down, and shook hands with each of the party.
Then, with a wave of his hand, he said, " We have given
President Buchanan the first public reception in our
new palace," adding, " I honour President Buchanan
very much." He escorted the party around the room,
showing us the i)ortraits of George Washington, Presi-
dent Pierce, Queen Victoria, and Prince Albert. Then,
taming to the proper officer, he directed him to con-
duct us to an adjoining room to partake of a luncheon
prepared for us; and, with a bow, withdrew.
After " tiffin," we were escorted to the landing as
we had come, and returned in like state in the royal
barge to the Consulate. Altogether it was a notable
occasion.
Of the tours undertaken in Lower Siam, the one
which led to the most lasting results was one in 1S59
to Pecliabm i, which has since become well known as
one of our mission stations. For companion on this
trip I had Cornelius Bradley, son of the Rev. Dr. Brad
BANGKOK 49
ley of Bangkok. Shortly before this a rising young
nohloman. iin.l a lil.orai minded friend of forelgr«rt
had been assigned t(. the |.lnro ..stensihiv „f lieutonant-
porernor (Pra Palat) of I'ethahurl, bui praeficaliv of
governor. He wan a brother of the future Regen( •
I'fi.l l>e..n on t\n> first embassy to Kngland; and at a
hiter period beeaiue Minister for Foreign AfFairs. At
our call, Hf8 Excellency received us very kindly^ and
before we left invited as to dine with him on the
following evening.
The dinner was one that wonld have done credit t..
any hostess in America. I was still more surprised
when, at the table, addressing me by a title then given
to all missionaries, he said, '> Mau " (Poetor), "i
want you to come and live in i'eehaburl. You have
no family. I will furnish yon a honse, and give yon
every assistance you need. You can teach as much
Christianity as you please, if only y,.M will teach my
son English. If yon want a school, I will see that
you have pupils." I thanked hii.i for the offer, but
could only tell him that I would think the matter over
It might be, after all, only a Siamese cheap compli-
ment. It seemed too good to be tme. It was, how-
ever, directly in the line of my own thoughts. I had
come to Siam with the idea of leav; .- he great com-
mercial centres, and making the exiieriment among a
rural population like that of my North Carolina
charge.
The next day Pra Palat called on us at our
and again broached the subject. He was very
anxious to have his son study English. In my mission
' A public rr t-house or shelter, such as Buddhist pletv providaa
&U AMuN(i THE HIAMEHB AND THE LAO
work I Hhould he untran)iiii'IU-<l. IU-r<ire Icnvin^ un, he
moitionei) tlif iniittcr n-rjiin It Wiis (liis limo un
coorteon^ ''vas ou wlicn I tolil liini I wuuld von if I
ronld. — \Vlt;it did it all inean?
I rc'hn !.«•<! ( > llanjrkok full <'nth!.-iasin lur
I'cchnlMii 1 Tm more 1 |M>ndfiv<l it, ihc jjnatiT tlu
otffr 8< . H'd H. Ik.'. IScyund ni.v iimliUTt'on lur a
smallor fity (>>* fur rural worit, I actually d d a»t like
MaURk ik I'l ^ilmri. Ii ut v* r, was U-yoni' Mio iiinits
of trea!,> rijjLis. I'erinis^mn to t'8tabli»ili a kI;! on
there could l>e had "nly by safferaiice from a {lovern-
monr not hilinTtM noted for liberality, lit re was an
invitation e<]ni vnlcnt »< ,i d |H'rinii aii I with no
fnr*>,er ii'd la|>i» alx it. I loiild vv ( i ly one ob-
stacle in the way. The Henior nM^tnlter of the miHiiion
— the one who wn^ iiatnra)i\ itH head — 1 feared wonid
not approve. An<l he <Iid, indivd, look attkanee at 'le
prop<)siti«)n. He dutdtle«l whether wv eould trust the
protniaea made. .\nd th*ii to g<» t^i far away alonp'.
But I thoii;;! I ' new hunmn n:if ii- well enon<;h to
tmat that man. .\s to beiBg aloi. , 1 was willing to
risk that. Possibly if might not be beat to ride a
free horse f(»o freelv. > would ni> with my ei)nif>-
nient. and he at ^vv't indepi udenf : th>
I'alal had said tlwit he di 1 in ! mind li e ex|' li
only he could get bis mn taught English.
Fhere eonld at least lie no <■ ,e(tion to iik -i'
• lerimental visit and (hen eo: linuinj? it as
I ght seem wise. Pechaburf within thirty
i Bangkok. If taken sick, I i mid run »>ver in da>
■• two. li lliat iinderstanditiu, :i : with hi 'it
ather thau llie t xiiresseii sai iioi; ol the missi< I
began to make prefmrations.
At Isat my preparations * -re . oLiplete, ev^ai to
BANGKOK
61
baktni' umi ' <• fhf fri;>. 1 had fltte<l nji a tuiiriiiK
b(>ui of !»' iiii-i luid • n^jjed <'apf^ n ; id lM»at-
mev , wb« . .. ! 'le da> bef«»re I was to Ktart, cholera,
whirh fur mifne time bad i)een !i}>oradii< in Bangkok,
fiudU' nly 5 ' "ideinie. II tlicfi U , ,1 ncN Camp-
bell, jtiivsiciit; 'n • IJ' f ■ (.'(mKUlate, aiiv. our med-
ical a^ ^ 'trit^ iMiu^'ht I jth cautimi and prtidence
j mi^ii (ft ' ' \ n« ral panii' now ar' <> nil
«T f! an ' »'y fame to tell Miat
. :tli8 w if • u ! ly on the canal It, it li
' -va* to ii = •' = wo- 4 be to tempt j rovi-
4if igfat ^tion, and it came
il! Wll ' " t'>. (Writ .
It*' tir met next morii np wan Dr. Hoaw,
•i»ir ' -'-i- frmii Mr. Wilson's, lie lia<' ix ' called
In iitlcnd M'^. Wilson, who h mI I -n Kud-
<iei \ -mi with "the discuHe," an ^he itives
eopben ••tit'ally call It, being snpemtitio t.! ifnrid
i>f ut ng the name Dr. Hons, had fai oheck
it, I! nt nip ' < all Dr. CauiplK-ll. Hut not
t an ■ 'Uu not get the niessafrc till n a.
n tin rbe patient had roachoil the st.-k -n
• a.v alw'Ut t(» onsue. The disease was
o«l lUt Mr?!. Wilson was left in a very ptecari-
<>u condition.
ieanw hile her little dauphtor Harriot was also taken
ii, and fi.i- a time llie lilV of both iiioiher and danji' ter
wa'- -i suspense. The ihiU; I'ngered on till May l.^th,
wben she was taken to a beiter clime. On July 14th tke
r, too, ceased from her suffering, and entered on
r everlasting rest,
mng these months, of course, all thoughts of
I^ciidburi had been abandoned; nor would it then
oave oeeB deemed wise to travel daring the wet sea-
52 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
Bon. Before the next dry season came, Htingkok be-
gan to have more attractions, and I had become less
ambitious to start a new station alone. On the 11th
of September I became engaged to Miss Sophia Royce
Bradley, daughter of the Rev. D. B. Bradley, M.D.
On December 6th, 1860, we were married. In my
wife I found a helpmeet of great executive ability, and
admirably qualified for the diversified worii before us.
It was something, too, to have inherited the best tradi-
tions of one of the grand missionaries of his age.*
Samre, our mission station in Bangliok, was four
miles distant from the heart of the city. We greatly
needed a more central station for our work. Dr.
Bradley offered us the use of a house on his own
premises — one of the most desirable situations in
Bangkok — if we would come and live there. The mis-
sion accepted his generons offer. With relnctance I
resigned whatever claim I might have to be the pioneer
of the new station at Pechaburi. We were settled, as
it would seem, for life, in Bangkok.
' Dr. Bradley'« life would be the beat history we could have of
Siam during <te transition period. He left a voluminous diary, and
it was from his pen that most of the exact infwnuUiiai coacenting
Siam WM kng derived.
IV
PECHABURl—THE CALL OP THE NORTH
BY this time the mission generally had become
interested in the estabiishment of a new sta-
tion at Pechaburi. Dr. and Mrs. House were
designated for the post. The Doctor actually went
to Pechabnr! ; procured there, through the help of our
frienrl the Palat, a lot with a house on it; and thus
committed the mission to the project. But the day
before he was to >tart homeward to prepare for re-
moval thither, he was so seriously hurt by a fall from
his horse that he was confined to his bed for several
months. It was even feared that he was permanently
disabled for active life. A new adjustment of our
personnel was thus necessitated. Dr. Mattoon had
just returned from the United States with the Rev.
S. Q. McFarland, the Bev. N. A. McDonald, and their
wives. Dr. Mattoon could not be spared from Bang-
kok, nor was he enthusiastic over the new station.
Mr. McDonald had no desire for such experiments.
Both Mr. and Mrs. McFarland were anxious to move,
bat were too new to the field to be sent out alone.
They were urgett that we should go with them. My
opportunity had come. So, early in June, 1861, we
broke up the first home of onr married life, and, in
company with the McFarlands, moved on to onr new
home and our new work.
Our friend, the Pra Palat, seemed pleased that we
54 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
had come, :tftcr all. His slight knowledge of English
had been learned as a private pnpil from Mrs. Mc-
Oilvary's own niotlier. He was glad, whenever he had
leisure, to continue his studies with Mrs. McGilvary.
Mr. McFarland preferred school work. He took the
son that I was to have taught, and k-ft me untrani-
UM'lled to cuter upon evangelistic work. The half ho,;r
after each evening nu'al we spent in united prayer for
fniidanee and success. Two servants of each family
were sclccfed as special subjects of prayer; and these,
in due time, we had the pleasure ot welcoming into
the church.
Of the incidents of our Pechabnrl tife I have room
for hut a singh' one. As we were rising from the
dinner-table one Sunday shortly after our arrival, we
were snrprised to see a man coming up the steps and
crossing the veranda in haste, as if on a special errand,
lie led by the hand a little boy of ten or twelve years,
and said, " I want to commit this son of mine into
yonr care. I want yon to teach him." Btmck by his
earnest manner, we drew from him these f:u'ts: lie was
a farmer named Nai Kawn, living some Ave miles out
in the country. He had just heard of our arrival, had
come immediately, and was very glad to find us.
We asked whetlier lie had ever met a missionary be-
fore. No, he said, but !:is father — since dead — had
once met Dr. Bradley, and had received a book from
him. He had beg^;ed other books from neighbours', who
had received them but did not value them. Neither
did be at first, till the great cholera scourge of 1849,
when people were dying all around him. He was
greatly alarmed, and learned from one of the books
that I*ra Yesu heard prayer in trouble, and <<)uld save
from sin. For a long time he prayed for light, until,
PECHABURI— THE CALL OF THE NORTH 55
about three years ago, ho lu liovod in Jesus, and was now
happy in heart. He had heard onoe of Dr. IJradle.v's
coming to Pechaburi, but not until he was gone again.
He preached to his neighbonrs, who called him " Kon
Pra YesQ" (Lord Jesus' man). He had prayed for
Dr. Bradley and the missionaries; he had read the
story of Moses, the Epistle to the Romans, the Gospel
of John, a tract on 1 'raver, and "The Golden Bal-
ance"; and he believed tiieni. lie could rejieat i)or-
tions of Romans and John verbatim ; and he had his son
repeat the Lord's Prayer.
My subject at the afternoon service was Nicodemus
and the New Birth. Nai Kawn sat spellbound, fre-
quently nodding assent. At the close we asked him
to speak a few words; which he did with great clear-
ness. On being questioned as to the Trinity, he replied
that he was not sure whether he understood it. He
gathered, however, that Jehovah was the Father and
Ruler; that the Son came to save us by dying for as;
and that the Holy Spirit is the Comforter. The diflfer-
ence between Jesus and Buddha is that the latter en-
tered into Nirvana, and that was the last of him;
while Jesus lives to save. He even insisted that he
had seen a vision of Jesus in heaven. His other ex-
periences were characterized by such marks of sober-
ness that we wondered whether his faith might not
have been strengthened l)y a dream or a vision.
This incident, coming so soon after our arrival,
greatly cheered us in our work. His subsequeut story
is too long to «"ollow out in detail here. His piety and
his sincerity were undoubted. He lived and died a
Christian; yet he never fully identitied himself with
the church. He insisted that he had been baptized by
the Holy Ghost, and that there was no need of farther
56 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
baptism. Not long after tliis T>r. r.radlry and Mr.
Mattoon visited Pechaburi, examined the man, and
were equally- .surprised at his history.
What changed our life work from the Siamese to
the Lao? There were two principal causes. The vari-
ous LSo states which are now a part of 8iam, were
then ruled bv feudal princes, each virtually sovereign
within his own dominions, but all required to pay a
triennial visit to the Siamese capital, bringing the
customary gifts to their suzerain, the King of Siam,
and ren. , ing their oath of allegiance to him. Their
realms served, moreover, as a " buflfer " between Siam
and Burma. There were six of these feudal principal-
ities. Five of them occupied the basins of live chief
tributaries of the Mtoam Riv -r; namely— in order
from west to east— Chiengmai, Lamptin, Lakawn, Pre,
and Nan. The sixth was Lttang Prabfing on the M6
Kong River. The rapids on all these streams had
served as an effectual barrier in keeping the northern
and the southern states quite separate. There was
no very frequoit communication in trade. There was
no mail communication. OflQcial despatches were
passed along from one governor to the next. Very
little was known in Bangkok about the lAo provinces
of the north. A trip from Bangkok to (^hiengmai
seemed then like going out of the world. Only one
Englishman, Sir Robert Schomburgk of the British
Consulate in Bangkok, had ever made it.
Of these Lao states, Chiengmai was the most im-
portant. After it came Nan, then Lttang Prabang
(since ceded to the French), Lakawn, Pr*, and Lam-
pto. The Lfto people were regarded in Siam as a very
warlike race; one chieftain in particular being famed
PECHABURl— THE CALL OF THE NORTH 57
as a great warrior. They woe withal said to be sos-
picious and unreliable.
Almost the only visible result of my six months' stay
within the cit.v of Hanskok, after my marriage, was
the formation of a slight acquaintance with the Prince
of Chioigmal and his family. Just before my mar-
riage he had arrived in Ban^ok with a great flotilla
of boats and a great retinue of attendants. The
grounds of Wat Chfing monastery, near to Dr. Brad-
ley's compound, had always been their stopping place.
The conse(iuenco was (hat, of all the missionaries, Dr.
Bradley had become best acquainted with them and
most deeply interested in them. He earnestly cul-
tivated their friendship, invited them to his printing-
office and to his house, and continually preached onto
them the Gospel. They were much interested in vac-
cination, which he had introduced, and were delighted
to And that it protected them from smallpox.
The day after our marriage, in response to a present
of some wedding cal:e, the Prince himself, with his two
daughters and a large train of attendants, called on us
in our now home. This was my first introduction to
Chao KawilOrot and his family, who were to play so
important a r61e in my future life. All that I saw
of him and of his people interested me greatly. Dur-
ing the short lime we remained in their neighbouiiiood,
1 made frequent visits to the Lao camp. The subject
of a minion in Chiengmai was talked of, with apparent
approval on the part of the Prince. My interest in
Pechaburl was increased by the knowledge that there
was a large colony of Lao * there. These were cap-
> The application of this name is by m mean* ttiiifwm throoghout
Oie prainmila. From LQaog Pi^jlag aonthmud akmc tb« «ntwa
frontwr. tbe uibea of Uiat stock call tbsaadTti Lao sad an so
58 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tives of war from the r^on of KbOrat, bearing no
very dose rcsiinhlaiue to our later parishioners in
tlie north. At tiio Unu> of our stay iu IVcliaburi, the
Luo in that province wei-e held as govermuent slaves,
engaged all day on varioas pnblic works — a circum-
stance wliicli fiivatly inipodod onr access to theni, and
at the same time made it more diUicult for them to em-
brace Christianity. Neither they nor we dared apply
to the government for the requisite sanction, test
thi'reliy their <ase bo made worse. Our best oppor-
tunity for work among them was at night. My mosi
pleasant memories of Pechabnri cluster about scenes
in Lao villages, when the whole population would as-
semble, either around a camj* fire or under the bright
light of the moon, to listen till late in the night to the
word of God. The conversion of Nfii Ang, the first one
from that colony, anticipated that of NSn Inta, and the
larger ingathering in the North.
But there was more than a casual connection be-
tween the two. My labours among them increased
the desire, already awakened in me, to reach the home
of the race. Here was another link iu the chain of
providences by which I was led to my life-work. The
time, however, was not yet riiHJ. The available force
of the mission was not yet large enough to justify
further expansion. Moreover, our knowledge of the
cMlleil by tlieir nfighbours. But 'he central anil western groups do
not acknowledge tlic name as ilici . at all, but call themselves limply
Tai; or if a distinction must be made, they call themselves Kon KQa
(Northerners), and the Siamese, Kon Tai (Southerners). The 81»-
laese, on the other hand, also call tbemaclTcs Tai. which is r<»lty the
race-name, common to all branches of the rtock; and they apply the
name Lao alUie to all their northern cousins except the N- or
Wester!: Bhans. Nothing is known of theori.LMu of the nann but
the same root no doubt appears in sucli tribal and geograpliical
names as Lawa, Lawa, L.iwo— the lust hcing the nameol tiM famoiH
abandoned capital now kuotvu asi i-opiiburi.— iiu.
PECHABURT— THE CALL OF Till: XOHTII r.9
Luo country was not suth as to make possible any
comprehensive and intelligent plans for a miMion
tlu'ic. The first thing to do was evidently to make a
tour of exploration. The way to such a tour was
opened in the fall of 18G3. The Presbytery of 8iam
met in Bangkok early in November. I had so ar-
ranged my affairs if (lie way should ojion, I c(*uld
go north directly, without returning to Pecbaburi. I
knew that Mr. Wilson was free, and I thought he
would favour the trip. This he readily did, and the
mission gave its sanction. ►So I toiiiniirte<l my wife
and our two-year old daughter to the care of loving
grandparents, and, after a very hasty preparation,
wc started on the 20th of November in search of far-
away Chiengmai.
The six-oared touring-boat which I had fitted up in
my bachelor days was well adapted for our purpose
as far as the first fork of the Mtoam. The Siamese
are experts with the oar, but are unused to the setting-
pole, which is well-nigh the only mource all through
the upi>er reaches of the river. It was sunset on a Fri-
day evening before we finally got oil'. lJut it was a
start; and it proved to be one oi the straws on which
(he success of the trip depended. The current against
us was very strong; so we slept witl.in the city limits
that night. We s{>ent all day Saturday traversing a
canal parallel with the river, where the current was
weaker. It was sunset before we entered again the
main stream, and stopped to spend Sunday at a monas-
tery. To our great surprise we found that the Prince
of Chiengmai— of whose coming we had had no intima-
tion—had camped tliere the night before, and had
passed on down to Bangkok that very morning. Wo
had misiwd him hy taking the canal !
GO AM()N(J Tin: SlAMKSi: AM) THi: LAO
We were iu duubt whether we uught uut to returu
and get a letter frutu him. A favourable letter would
be in valuable; but be might refuMe, or even forbid our
going. If w(? may jud^e fruiii wliaf \\v nftiTWiinls
knew of liia ttUHpicious nature, amh piobubiy would
have been the outcome. At any rate, it would delay
Uh; and we had already a passjHtrt from tlie Siaint'se
government which would t'lisurt- our trip. And, doubt-
less, we did accompii»>h our di-sigu with more freedom
because of the Prince's absence from his realm. It
was apparently a fortuitous ihiu^ that our uicu knew
of the more bluggisb chanuel, aud so missed the Luo
flotilla. But it is quite possible that upon that choice
depended the establishment of th*' L.'h) mission.
All went well until we i-eatlied the liist fork iii Pak
nam I'O. There the water came rushing down like a
torrent, so swift that oars were of no avail. We tried
first one side of the streain and then the other, but
all in vain. Our boatmen exchanged their oars fur
poles. But they were awliward and unaccustomed to
their use. The boat would inevitably drift down
stream. The poor boatmen lau<?bed despairingly at
their own failure. At last a rope was suggested. The
men climbed the bank, and dragged the boat around
the point to where the current was less swift. But
when, as often hai»j>ened, it became necessary to cross
to the other side of the river, the first push otf the
bank would send us into water so deep that a fifteen-
foot pole could not reach bottom. Away would go
the boat some hundreds of yards down stream before
we could bring up on the opposite bank. We reached
Bahtog, however, in nineteen travelling days — ^which
was not by any means bad time.
In our various joumeyings hitherto we had con-
PECHA BURT— THE CALL OP THE NORTH 61
iKilhd oiir nwii means of transportation. Hence-
foi tli we wore at the iiiony of native oniciala, to whose
tenuKTatnent such things as punituality and speed
are alhigether alien. Prom Rabtog the trip by ele-
jiliant to ('liii'n^'iii.'ii should ho only twelve days. By
Itoat, the tiijt would he iinich longer, though the re-
turn trip would be eorresiHuidingly Hhnrter. We had
a letter from Mangkok to the ofBcials along the ronte,
directing tlicm to procure for us liojits, elephants, or
men, as might nml. We were in a hurry, and,
besides, were yonng and impuIsiTe. The otBcials at
Kiilienir assured us that we sbould have prompt
despatch. No une, however, seemed (o make any ef-
fort to send us on. The governor was a great
Buddhist, and fond of company and argnment. He
could match our Trinity by a Huddhist one: PutthS,
Thammr., Hangkho— Buddha, the Scriptures, the
Brotherhood. Men's own good deeds were their only
atoTiement. The one religion was as good as the other.
On these siibjecls lu w uld lalk by the hour; but when
urged to get our elephants, hi always had an excuse.
At last, In despair, we decided to take onr bcmtmen
and walk. When this news reached the governor,
whether from pity of us, < r from fear that some trouble
might grow ont of it, be nmt word that if we would
wait till the next day, we should have the ^ephants
without fail.
We got the elephants; but, as it was, from preference
T walked most of the way. Once T paid dear for my
walk Ity getting separated from my elephant in the
morning, losing my noonday lunch, and not regaining
my i)arty till, tired and hungry, I reached camp at
night. Our guide had taken a circnitons ronte to
avoid a band of robbers on the main route which I
62 A!kfON<} THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
bad f(illit\vo(! ! Thiw was my first i>.\i fiicnro of He-
plianf ri.liiijj;. W'v « rosscd rivers when* the banks were
Bfeop, iiinl ilieri! wjis tin ri-giiiar liinUiuK- I5«t whether
ascend iog or deRceoding steep filopeii, whether skirting
strcaniH nnd wjili-rfiills, nn<> in;!- trust tlio clopliant'H
sagacity aud Kuix-footedm-ss. The view wo hud fnim
une of the mountain ridii^pH seemed incomparably fine.
The Mt> V'mg wound its \v. y aioiiK tlio base beneath
us, while bcyorKi, to ri^hf :ind to left, rose ranpe Ikv
yond range, with au oecasional i)eak towering high
above the rest. But that was tame in comparison
Willi itiany mountain views enconntered in subaeqaent
years.
We were eight days in reaching Lakawn,' which we
maiited as one of our future mission stations. On
being asked whether lie would welcome a mission
there, the governor replied, " if the Kiug of 8iuiu and
the Prince of Chiengmai approve." At Lalcawn we
had no delay, Mtopping there only from Fri<lay till
Monday morninp. Thenc e to Lanlpun we found sfilu >
or resthoust's, at regular intervals. The watershed
between tliew; towns was the highest we had crossed.
The road follows the valley of a stream to n> ir the
summit, and Ihen follows another stream down un the
other side. The gorge was in places so narrow that
tlic elephant sa<ldle scraped the mountain wall on one
side, while on the other a niisslcp would have precip-
itated us far d(t\vn to the brook bed l)elow.
'A corruption <if Xakawn (for Sfiii.'-kiit nif/nra, cnpilal tity),
which is the firsi piu! ..f tlje (.lliti.i! iiiiiue !he place, Nukawu
Lanipang. The Post OlHce calls it riainpfing, to dialiuguish it from
another Nakawn (likewise Laka-.vn in ct'inniun speech), in the Malay
Peuinsula — the place known to Europeans as Ligor. Tlio geuersl
currency of this sliort naro«, »nd lu regular hw in ,•»!! !!•,!■ niia-iionaiy
Utsnton, teem to justify its reteatioa iu this narratiTe.— £o.
i'i:< iiAm uI— Tui: call tue noutii j
At Liiiiiprin ni.v cnnipiiniuli wan not well, so fi (t
1 aloue cullt'd on the authuritieii. The goveruur hi.J
called the princefi tt^ther to learn otir errand. Tb^
geemed bewildered when told tliat we had no };ov('rn-
nient buainetw, nor were wi» >ra<lctK — were uu\y teach-
erw of reliRlo;- When the |m..imm' ofTloer wo« directed
to Kcnd UM oil i]ui('kiy, lie iH'gaii (o muke excuHCH that
it wdiild take I wo or Miiih* da^H. Turninn Hharply
upou liiiii, the ^'oveiiior asked, " I'ruya Suuuui, how
many eleiihantn have you?" "Pour," was the re-
sponse. " S< c that they >?el olT Id iiU'iTow," was the
'■iliort rcjily. Ih- ineelvly wiihdicw. There was evi-
uently uo trilling with that n<»veruor. One day more
brought us to Chiengmai — to the end of what aeemed
tlien a very lonfj journey. ,\s we m ared 111" city, Mr,
WilisoUH elephant took fright at the creaking uoiae
of a water-wh<'>el, and ran away, crashing through
bauihoo fenci'ii and ^ranipUng down gardens. For-
tunately no one wa; '
We reached the oil 'uary Tlh, isiu, ou tbe
forty -ninth day of o • . . • .. The nephew of tbe
Prince had lM>«'n h-f diiriuj; the Triuce's
absence. He evidently was ju doubt how to ' 'v>-
us. He could not ijjnore our passport and lette. iOu.
Itaugkok. On tin- «)llier hand, why did we not have
a letter from the I'riiue? Our story of n i siiifr him
Ihroii^li choosi, the canal iii. iead of the lu'm (■■■\v
might or might not be true If the deputy were Uto
liospitable. his Mrim c iiii<jh'; blame him. So he cut
the knot, and went oil to ids tlelds. We saw no more
of him till he came in to see us - ifely otf.
The elder daughter of tbe Printe bad accompanied
her fatlior to Bangkok, but the your^;' danghter was
ui huuic. tshe was u person of great intiueuce, and
04 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
was hy nature hospitable. Things could not have
been better planned for our pui-pose. The princess
remembered me and my wife from her call on us after
our wedding. She now called on uh in person with
her retinue; after that everybody else was free to
call. It is not onlikely that that preyious acquaint-
ance redeemed our trip from being a failure. Our
salii was usually erowdod with visitors. We had an
ideal opportunity of seeiug the heart of the people.
Tliey laclced a certain external refinement seen among
the Siamese; hut they seemed sincere aud more re-
ligious. Buddhism had not become so much a mat-
ter of form. Many of the older people then spent
a day and a night, or even two days, each mouth fast-
ing in the monaster!* Tiiere was ho})e that if such
people saw a better way, they would accent it. One
officer, who lived just behind our sfiia, a great merit-
maker, was a coustant visitor. Yeai-s afterward we
had the pleasure of welcoming him to the communion
of the church.
From every point of view the tour was emin«itly
successful. Many thou- iuds heard the (lospel for the
first time, in our main quest we were more than suc-
cessful. We were delighted wita the country, the
cities, the people. Every place we came to we meu-
tally took possession of for our T.onl aud Master. In
Chieugmai we remained only ten days; but one day
would have sufficed to convince us. I, at least, left
it with the joyful hope of its becoming tlie field of my
life-work.
From the tirst we had planned to return by the
river through the rapids. But the prince in chai^
was very averse to our goin^ It.v thai mute. We
blew that the route positively made uo ditleit:uce to
PECHAIU RI -Tin: CALL OF THE NORTH 05
him personally. Ho had only to give the word, and
either elephants or boats would be fortbcomiiig. Was
he afraid of our spying out the road into the comtry?
At last we were obliged to insist on the wording of
our letter, which specially mentioned boats. Then he
offered us one so small that he probably thon^t we
would roTusc it. Hut we took it; and our captain
afterwards extlianfied it for a larger one. We made
a swift passage through the famous rapids, and reached
Bangkok on January 30th, 1864.
The first news that we he.iid on our arrival was
that Mrs. Mattoon was obliged to leave at once for the
United States, and that Mr. Wilson was to take his
furlough at the same time. This, of course, ended all
plans for an.v ininiediate removal to Chiengmai. We
hastened to Pechaburl, where the McFarlands had
been alone during our absence. Three years were to
pass b^ore our faces were again turned northward.
V
THE CHARTER OP THE I.AO MISSION
IN the nieanliiiie, with (\v« chiiilrcn added uuto us,
we were become a family much more difficult to
move. We liked oiir lionic and oiir work. At
the a;;e of ihirt.\ nine, to shike out into a new work,
in a lan^uajje at least partly new, watt a matter not
to be lightly undertaken. Might it not be better that
Mr. Wilson slioiild wnik up in the I'nited States an
interest in the new miissiou, should liiniself select his
associates in it, and that I should give up my claim
to that place? It was certain that three families could
not he spared for Chien'^inai. More than <ine day was
speiif, under the shade of a great tree hehind Wal N«)i,
in thought on the subject, and in prayer for direc-
tion.
Finally - tliough it was a hard thing to do- I wrote
to Mr. Wilson, then in the I'nited States, suggesting
the plan jn«t stated. Feeling sure that it would
eonini"nd itself to liini, I considered the door to
Chieugmai as prohahly closed to me. la the mean
time Mr. Wilson had married again; and on the eve
of his n inni wrote to me that he had failed to get
aniillicr faiiiih to coino nut with liiiii. and was dis-
eourage*! about the Chiengniai mission. I'rohahly the
time had not yet come, etc., etc. I was delighted to
get that li'M. r. [| <l('< idfd iiie to go to ( Miiciinmai,
the Lord willing, the following dry season, with only
68
Tin: ("iiakti:k of tin: i.ao .mission r.7
m.v own fiiinil.v. if need be. IM'. Mattnou and Hr,
House wcit! absent on fiuiougli. Mr. Wilson and I
wootd he the Henior members of the miH^ion. The
Hoard had alrcidv piven its sanction. Tlie mission
in Bangkok meanwhile had l»een reiuforcud by the
arrival of the Georges and the Cardens. On the return
of llio8e then ali.scnt on liirlou^'li. one of these faniilies
eonid join the Mt l"arlaii<!s in I'cchiiliuri, and vet iliei-e
would be four families in IJangkok. Such a combina-
tion of favourable circumHtances might not occur
again.
When Mr. Wilson arrived in Hangkok in the fall of
18<)K, a letter wan waiting for him, asking him to
visit U8 in Pecbaburi to talk over the quetstion. On his
arrivid we spcpl one Siinday in anxious consultation.
He waH stilt eager to go to Chiengmai, but could not
go that year. His preference would be that we should
wait another year. — Hut that might be to lose the op-
portnnity. So next morning, leaving Mr. and Mrs.
Wils(m to visit with my family, I hurried over to
Bangkok. There was no time to be lost. The Prince
of Cliiengniai had been called diiwn on sjiei ial bnsi-
nesK, and was soon to return. The whole [dau might
depend on him— as, in fact, it did.
It was after dark on Tuesday night when I reached
l>r. Hnidlev's, taking tlieni all by surprise. 1 made
known my erraud. Another long and anxious con-
sultation followed. I knew that Dr. Bradley's great
missionary soul would not Ik- staggt ied by auy jK-T-
Honal considerations. It would be but tlie answer to
his own prayers to see u mission planted in Chiengmai.
In his heart he was glad that it was to be planted
by one of bis own r.-niiily. Earnest prayer was utlVrcd
that night at the family altar for guidance iu the
68 AM()N(5 THi: SIAMKSE AND THE I, An
npffotiations of the following day, and for a blessing
on the mission that was to he.
On Wednesday, after an early breakfast, Dr. Brad-
ley iUTotnpanie«l nio to our mission. M.v (•t)llpapiips,
McDonald, George, and Carden, were easily indiu-ed
to conseBt. Mr. McDonald said that he wonld not go
himself; but if I were willing to risk my family, he
wonld not oppose the schonio. and would vote to have
Mr. Wilson follow me the next year. Thus another
rtstacle was removed.
Tddng Mr. McDonald and Mr. Oeorge with us. we
proceede<l next to the I'nitt'd Slates Consulate, where
Mr. Ilood readily agreed to give lii.s otlicial and {K!r-
sonal aid. The two greatest obstacles remained yet:
the Siamese governnu'nt and — as it turned out in ttie
end — the Lao Prince ' also. The Consul wrote im-
mediately to the King, through our former Pechaburl
friend, who had recently been made Foreign Minister,
a formal request {or permission to open a station in
Chieugmai. It was Friday evening when the . -jily
'The L.W ruler was a feu;!.".! "ii.s.sal of tlin King of Hiam, governing
an important frontier |m.i. incu, iinil (iniuleii, wittiiu that province,
some of the powers vvliidi are usually thouglit of as belonging to
sorereignty — notably the power of life and death in the case of liis
immediate subjects. His title, I'ru C.'hao, like it.s English parallel,
Lonl, he shared with the deity as well as with kings; though the
Kings of Biun claim the added designation, "Tu Uiia," "at the
bMHl," at " Sovereign." By the early missioDBries, however, he was
i^^M^ ^led " King," a term which to ua misrcpraaenU his rud
Btetm, md wkidi leads to much confasion both of personality and
of fuDctiou. Meantime both title and function have vanished with
the feudal order of which they were a part, leaving US frofl to seek
for our narrative a less misleading term. Such a term seems to be
the word I'rince, thus defined in Murray's Dictionary («. b. II. 5); —
" The ruirr of a |iri 'cipalily or small stale, actually, noiuinally, or
ortgiiially, i-. feuiiulory o! a kin.L' or ernperor.' The capital initial
shi 'ild .^ul': e fTi (leiiil.;. In > iUl i iit^ lii-h llje I'rince who is ruler fnmi
priitces who are buch merely by accident of birth.— .''.u.
TIIK CIIARTKK OF THi: LAO MISSION 09
fame that the deiisiou did not rest with the King.
He could not force a mission upon the L3o |)eoi)lc.
Hut the Lao Priuce was then in Bangkok. If he gave
his t'onsent, the Siinncse govcrniiient would give theirs.
He suggested that we have an audience with the
Prince, at which His Majesty would have an officer in
atteudanoe to n imrt dim th to him.
So on Saturday- morning at ten o'clock we all ap-
peared at the landing where the Lao boats were
moored, asking for an audience with the Prince. We
were invited to await liini in the sala at tlie river
luudiug. In a few moments Llis Highness came up in
his customary informal attire — a phdnung about his
Unuf, no jaiket, a scarf thrown loosely over his slioul-
dei^, and a iiltle cane iu his hand. Having shaken
hands with us, he seated himself iu his favourite at-
titude, dangling his right leg over his left knee. He
asked our errand. At Mr. Hood's retjuest Dr. Brad-
ley explained our desire to establish a mission sta-
tion in Chieugmai, and our hope to secure his ap-
proval. The I'rince seemed relieved to Hud that our
errand involvi-il nothing more serious than that. The
mi.ssiou stalitm was no new question suddenly sprung
upon him. We had more than once spoken with him
about it, and always apparently with his approbation.
To all our re«iuests he now gave ready assent. Yes,
we might establish ourselves in Chiengmai. Land was
cheap; we need not even buy it. Timber was cheap.
Tlifrc wonM Itr. of course, the cost of cutting and
hauling it; but not much more. We c«»uld build our
houses of brick or of wood, as we pleased. It was ex-
plained, as he ali-eady knew, that our object was to
tcai li religion, to cslahlisli s( liools. and to care for the
tiick The King's secretary took down the replies of
70 AMONG TUE SIAMHSE AND THE LAO
the rrinee tc our questions. Tl.e Consul expressed
his gratitude, and committed my fauiily to h>8 grac
clnt We wire to follow the Prince to Chiengmai as
goon as possihle. . .
S,Hl, >vril.e outward s.euo and ^"-"^Z^^,;^^^*
oflleial birth of the La., mission. In t«elf t was
ludicrous enough: the audience rl.ainUr, a s. a
landing under tlu> shad-nv of a r.uddlns, n.ouastery ,
ousul in his ollieia. uniform; the Prmce en
aMillc; our little Kroup awaiting the
which depended the royal si^natur,. ol ^"-l^'
Parau.cndr .Mal.fl Mou^kut authonz.ng the estabUsh-
,„,„t of a Christian .nission. The ^f?'
1 was myself amazed at the succesH of the ^eets
work. On the part both of t!.. Siamcs. p.v.rnment
and <.f tl.o Lao Prince, it was an act of ^'"''^^
to be exiK,-cted, though quite in keeping with the lib-
erality of the truly great king who opened
to civilization and 1.. rinistianity. And the Lao
Prince, with all his faults, had s..me m.ble and gener-
ous traits of character. .
Later in the day 1 called alone to tell the Pr.nce
that as soon as 1 could after the close of the rainj
aeason, 1 would co.ne with my family. After the In-
tense excitement of the week, 1 spent a quiet Sabba h
in Dr. IJradlev-s family, and on Monday mornmg could
s.,v as did Abraham's servant, " Hinder me n«.t, seeing
the L..rd hath prospered me." Taking the afternoon
tide. I hastened home t.. report H." su. cess ..t my <r>;..
to close mv work in IVcl.at.un. and t.. luake prepara-
tion for a" new station, which was soon to be a new
mission. . xi,. \i .
The work in hand was easily liunod over to Mi M.^
Farland, an earnest and successful worker, who had
THE ClIAirrKK OF THi: l..\(> MISSION 71
iK'Cdino siiocinlly giflcd in llu' Siaiuese lun;>;uago. The
rresbytery was to meet in IJangkiik in November. The
last busy weeks passed rapidly away. At their end we
bade fjood-bye to our lutWM' and fi-'ciids in lV'(hahun.
Friends in Bangisok gave iiss tliuii- hearty a.sHiMtance.
The Ladies' Sewing Society made a Hl)eral contribo-
tion to tlie new mlHsion. Dr. .lames Campbell sup-
plied lis with nMMiicines sind a ImioU of instrnetions how
to use them. The (lermau ('(rnsul gave us a I'russiun
rifle for oar personal protection. All our missionary
friends added their jiood wishes and Mieir prayers.
Wc had great ditUculty in Hecuriug suitable boats
and crews for the journey. On January 8d, 18G7, we
embarked, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Wilson to follow as
the next year. Mr. (ie<tr^;e arciniijiiinied ns as far
a» Kaht>ng. The trip is always a slow (me, but wc en-
joyed it. My rifle was useful in securing pelicans
and otlier larji^e birds for food. Once I fired into a
larj^e llock of pelicans on tiie river and killed three
with a siugle shot. I'Msh everywhere abounded. My
shotgun furnished pigeons and other small game. The
trip jilTorded line opiiortunity for evanfjelistic work.
Nothir-j^ of the sort had ever been done there save the
little which Mr. Wilson and I had attempted on our
earlier trip.
Kill: 'n«; was reached in four weeks. There we dis-
missetl the bouts that had brought us from ISaugkok,
and procured, instead, two lai^ ones of the sort used
in upcouiitry travel. We should have done better
with three of smaller size. We spent nearly a month
in toiling up the thirty-two rapids. At one of them
we were delayed from Friday noon till Tuesday after-
nottn. At anntlier, to avoid llic furious current of
the main river, we attempted u suiull channel at one
73 AMONG THK KIAMKHE AND TIIF. I.AO
side. As we kIowIv workf<l our wsw ;tl.<n^. tlh ;i»or
in our clumuel bwamc shiil tiwur ami Nhallower, till we
bad to renort to a Hystpin of eztemporixed locks. A
ti triponuy dam was Imilt iR'hind the I"»al. The re-
HiiHiiiK sliplit rist of uaUT would enable m to drag
the Iwtut a little furlher, lilt again it waa atranded—
wb«i the |>roce«a would have to be repeated. After
two days . ' hard work at tliis. .mr Itoatnicn fjavc up
in despair. A Obiengmai prime on liift way to Hang
kok found ua In this extremity, and gave w an order
to aecure help at ilic inaicst villiif,'i'. To mcikI (he
leHer up and liriii;; ilif lioiilnuii down would re-
quire nearly a wtrk. I'.iu ilu-re was utdliing else to do.
My rifle helped me aoniewbat to while away the time
of this idle waiting. We eonld hear tigers a! us
every night. I used to skirt about among the moun-
tain ridges an»l brooks, half hoping to shoot one of
tbem. Since my rifle was not a repealer, it was no
doubt best that my aiubition was not frralilit'd. Once,
taking a Siamese lad with me, 1 strayed further and
returned later than usual. It was nearly dark when
we got batk to the boats, and supper was waiting.
Hefore we had flnisluHl our meal, the boatnien euught
sight of the glowin}; eyes of a tiger that had followed
our trail to the further bank of the river, whence we
had I rossed to our boat.
(»ne of the boat raptains professed to be able to eall
up either deer or tip r, if one were within bearing. Ity
doubling a leaf together, and with tlnimb and tlnger
on either side hold iig (he two edi,'es (ense betwirn his
lips while he blew, he would prodiue a sound so nearly
resembling the cry of a yonng goat or deer, that a doe
within reach of the call, he rluimed, would run to tli ■
rescue of her young, or a tiger, hearing it, would run
THE CHARTER OF THE LAO MISSION 78
to Mcnre the prey. The two captains and I one day
went up on a ridge, ant!, ttelecting an oiien triangular
Kpjuf, pdsti'd om-selvt's l>mk lo Imck, faciog in tlireo
dirt'ctiouH, with uur giiUH iu rcudiueMM. The cuptuiu
had Rounded h\n call only two or three times, when
siuldfiily ti iiii-K«> «!tM'r niKlicd ftiriouslv up fruiu the
din'rliuu (I'Wiiid wliich i>in> of llii- riiptaiiiH wiiH fiicirif^.
A lulk'U lun was l.viiiK alMHil twt'Ul.v pal^'« oil" »»u the
edge of onr open apace. The excited animal stopped
behind it, his Iowit parts ( (Hiccali d, hut with bn»k,
Hhoulder, net-k, uud head tuWy exitused. Our captain
tired away, bnt was so excited that he would hare
niiMW'd an clcpliaut. IliH bullet entered tlie lug some
si\ im lu's hclow the lop. In an itislaut the deer was
gone. We f««uud not far otf the sput where evidently
a yuung deer had been devoured by a tiger. We tried
the experiment a number of times later, bnt witb no
BUi-eess.
After we bad waited two days and nt^ts fur help
from the village above, on the third ni^t tlie spirits
caine to (»nr rescue. Kitlier with their cars ur in
their imugiuatiouH, our crew heard >i range nuiHCs iu
the rocks and trees about them, which they interpreted
as a waraing from the Bpirits to be goue. Next morn-
ing, after consnlfation ttif^etlitT, they uiade another
desperate elTort, and got the boats olT. It was still
several days before we met the men that came down
in response to the prince's order. Hut smm- of the
worst rapids were yet before us. We could hardly
have got through without their aid.
The efforts of a single crew, it must be remembered,
an' intt'rly inadequate to brinjj a boat up through
any of these rapids. Only by coiubiniug two or three
crews can the boats be brought up one by one. Some
74 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
of the men are on the bank, tugging at the tow-rope
wliile tlioy clniiilHT over rocks and stnif^ple through
bushes. Some are on board, bendiug (o their jtoles.
Others are up to their waists in the rushing water, hy
main force fending off the boat from being dashed
against tlie rocks. On (me occasion I nivself liad made
the passage in tlie first boat, which then was left
moored in quieter waters. The crew went back to
bring up tlie seccind boat, in which were my wife and
children. With anxious eyes I was watching the
struggle; when, suddenly, in the fiercest rush of the
current, the men lost control of her. Boat and
passengers were drifting with full force straight
against a wall of solid rock on the ojiposKe bank. It
seemed as if nothing could save them. Uut one of the
fleetest boatmen, with rope in hand, swam to a rock
in midstrenni. and took a turn of the rojK! about it,
just in time to prevent what would have been a
tragedy.
At night, about camp fires on the river bank, we were
regaled by the boatmen with legends of the country
through w hii h we were passing. One of these legend's
concerned the lofty mountain which rises above the
rajiid called Keng Soi, where we were camped. The
story was that on its summit there had l>een in ancient
times a city of s€ti8 (millionaires), who paid a gold
fuuiif/ (two dollars) a bucket for all the water brought
up for tlieii' use. It was said that remains of their
city, and particularly an aged cocoanut tree, were still
to be seen on the summit.
Since it would take our boatmen at least two days
to surmount that rajiid, 1 resolved to attempt the
ascent, and either verity or explode the story. Start-
ing at early dawn with my young Siamese, zigzagging
THE CHARTEB OP THE LAO MISSION 75
back and forth on the slope all that long forenoon, I
struggled upward— often despairing of success, but
ashamed to turn back. At last we stood on the top,
but it was noon or later. We spent two or three hours
in search of the cocoannt tree or other evidence of
human settlement, but all in vain. I was satisfied
that we were the first of human kind that had ever set
foot on that lofty summit. We had brought lunch-
but no water! Most willingly would we have given a
silver fHmi<i for a draught.
The legend of the rapids themselves was one of the
most interesting. At the edge of the plain above the
rapids there is pointed out a wall of rock dropping
fully a hundred feet sheer to the water's edge. The
story goes that in ancient times a youth made love to
the Prince's daughter. The course of true love did
not run smooth; the father forbade the suit The lov-
ers resolved to make tlieir escape. The young man
mounted his steed with his bride behind him, and
together they fled. But soon the enraged father was
in hot pursuit. They reached the riverbrink at the
top of the precipice, with the father in plain sight be-
hind them. But there the lover's bean failed him.
He could not take that leap. The maidoi then begged
to exchange places with her lover. She mounted in
front; tied her scarf over her eyes; put spurs to the
horse; and took the fatal leap. To this day the vari-
ous rapids are mostly named from various portions of
the equipage which are supposed to have drifted down
the stream and lodged upon the rocks.
Lao witchcraft was another favourite theme of our
Rahcng boatmen. They were very much afraid of the
magical powers of wizards; and evidently believed
that the wizards could readily despatch any who of-
76 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
fended them. They could insert a mass of rawhide
into one's stomach, which would produce death, and
which could not oe consumed by fire when the body was
cremated. They could make themselves invisible and
invulnerable. No sword could penetrate their flesh,
and u bullet fired at them would drop harmless from
the mouth of the gun.
But we have lingered too long among the rapids.
Some distance above the last one the mountains on
either side recede from i\w river, and enclose the great
plain of Chiengmai and Lampuu. Both passengers
and boatmen draw a long breath of relief when it
opens out. The glorious sun ag&.o shines all day.
The feathery plumes of the graceful bamboo clumps
are a delight to the eye, and give variety to the other-
wise tame scenery. But the distant mountains are
always in sight.
The season was advancing. The further we went,
the shallower grew the stream. Long before we
reached Chiengmai, we had to use canoes to lighten
our boats; but presently a seasonable rise in the river
came to our aid. On Saturday evening, April 1st,
1867, we moored our boats beside a mighty banyan
tree, whose spreading arras shaded a space more than
a hundred feet wide. It stands opposite the large
island which forty years later the government turned
over to Dr. McKean of our mission for a leper asylum.
Stepping out a few paces from under its shade, one
could see across the fields the pagoda spires of Chieng-
mai. There, prayerfully and anxiously, we sp^t the
thirteenth and last Sunday of our long journey, not
knowing what the future might have in store for us.
GHIENOMAI
ON Monday morning, April 3d, 1867, we reached
the city. We had looked forward to the ar-
rival as a welcome rest after the long confine-
ment of our journey in the boat. But it was only the
beginning of troubles. We were not coming to an
established station with houses and comforts pre-
pared by predecessors. The Prince was off on a mili-
tary exi)edition, not to be back for over a month.
Till he came, nothing could be done. We could not
secure a honse to shelter ns, for there was none to be
had. Just outside the eastern gat^ of the city, how-
ever, a sala for public use had recently been built by
an officer from Raheng, to " make merit," according to
Buddhist custom. He had still a quasi claim apon it,
and, with the consent of the Prince's representative,
he offered it to us. It was well built, with tile roof and
teak floor, was enclosed on three sides, and opened
in front on a six-foot veranda. In that one room, some
twelve feet by twenty, all our belongings were stored.
It served for bedroom, parlour, dining-room, and study.
In it tables, chairs, bedstead, organ, boxes, and trunks
were all piled one upon another. A bamboo kitchen
and a bathroom were presently extemporized in the
yard. That was our home for more than a year.
The news of the arrival of white foreigners soon
spread far and wide. It was not known how long they
78 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
would remain; and tlie oagi'iuess ol all classes to get
sight of them before they should be gone was ab-
solutely huli< r()us, even when most annoying. " There
is a white woman and children! We must go and see
them." Our visitors claimed all the immunities of
backwoodsmen who know no better. In eti(|uette and
manners they well deser.ed that name. Within a fcv
feet of the sala was a rickety plank-walk leading ov
marshy ground to the city. Everybody had to p .
that way, and everybody must stop. When the ve-
randa was filled, they would crowd un on the f^round
in front as long as they could get sight of anybody
or anything. If to-day the crowd prevented a good
view, they would > all to-morrow. The favourite lime
of all was, of course, our meal-time, to see how and
what the foreigners ate. Almost never in the daytime
could we sit down to a quiet meal without lookers-on.
It was not uncommon for our visitors to pick up a
knife or a fork or even the bread, and ask what that
was. " They don't sit on the floor to eat, nor use their
fingers, as we do ! "
This, however, is only one side of the picture. In
one sense we were partly to blame for our discom-
fort. We could soon have dispersed the crowd by
giving them to understand tiiat tlioir presence was not
wanted. But we ourselves were on trial. If we had
got the name of being ill-natured or ungracious, they
would have left us, probably never to return. No.
T' is was what we were there for. It gave us con-
stant opportunities from daylight till dark to pro-
claim the Gospel message. The first and commonest
question, who we were and what was our errand,
brought us at once to the point. We were roiiie with
messages of mercy and with offer of eternal life from
CHIENOMAI
79
Air great (Jod and Saviour. We were come wuh a
revelation of onr Heavenly Father to His wandering
and lost rliildren. While the mass of our visitors
came from curiosity, some came to learn; and many
who came from curiosity went away pondering whether
these things were so. Friendships also were formed
wliicii stood us in good stead afterwards when we
sorely needed friends. During our time of persecu-
tion these persons would come in by stealth to speak
a word of comfort, when tlioy dared not do so openly.
As the nnnoyance of those days fell most heavily
on the nei\es (»f my wife, it was a comfort to learn
afterwards that possibly the very first convert heard
the Gospel message first from her lips, while she was
addressing a crowd of visitors very soon after our ar-
rival. Reference will be made to him later, but it
may be said here that from the day when he first heard
the news, he never again worshipped an idol.
Whatever was their object in coming to see us, we
soon gave every cr»>wd, and nearly every risitor, to
understand what vs had come for. We had come as
teachers — prima: i , ^chers of a way of salvation
for sinners. A-" jver addi-essed a crowd of
thoughtful men or .ara who did not readily confess
that they were su.rii n , and needed a saviour from sin.
Hut we were not merely teachers of religion, though
primarily such. We could often, if not usually, better
teach religion — or, at least, could better lead up to it —
by teaching geography or astronomy. A little globe
that 1 had brought along was often my text.
I presume that most Christian people in America
have a very crude idea of the method of preaching the
Gospel often, or. perhai)s, generally, used by mission-
aries, particularly in new titlds. If they think that
80 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LlO
the bell is rang, that the people amemble in orderly
fashion, aud take their seats, that a liynin is sung,
prayer offered, the Scripture read, a sermon delivered,
and the congregation dismisseu with the doxology and
benediction,— they are very mach mistaken. All that
comes in time. We have lived to see it come in this
land— thanks to God's blessing upon work much more
desultory than that. Long after the time we are now
speaking of, one could talk of religion to the people by
the hour, or even by the daj", one might sing hymns,
might solemnly utter prayer, in response to inquiry as
to how we worshipped — and they would listen respect-
fully and with interest. Hut if public worship had
been announced, and these same people had been in-
vited to remain, every soul would have fled away for
fear of being caught in some trap and made Christians
without their consent, or for fear of boingf made to
suffer the consequences of being reputed Christians be-
fore they were ready to take that step. Forty years
later than the time we are now sfieaking of, I have
seen people who were standing about the church door
and looking in, driven quite away by the mere in-
vitation to come in and be seated.
In one sense our work during the first year was vc-ry
desultory. I had always to shape my instruction to
the individuals before me. It would often be in an-
swer to questions as to where was our country ; in what
direction; how one would travel to get there; could
one go there on foot; and so on. Or the question
might be as to the manners and customs of our na-
tion; or it miglit be directly on religion itself. But
as all roads lead to Home, so all subjects may be turned
to Christ, His cross, and His salvation.
Of the friends found in those early days I must
CFIKN(JMAI
81
mentioQ two. One was Princess Bua Kara, the mother
of the late and last Lfio Prince, Chao Intanon. At
our first acquaintance, kIio formed for vf a warm
friendship that lasted till her death. Nor could I over
discover any other groun»' for her friendship than the
fact that we were religious teachers. She was herself
a devout Ruddhisf, ami continued to (he last her of-
ferings in the monasteries. I believe that the Gospel
plan of salTation struck a chord in her heart which
her own religion never did. From Buddha she got no
assurance of pardon. The ass- ranee that pardon is
possible in itself seemed to give her hope, though by
what process a logical mind could hardly see, so long
as she held on to a system which, as she confessed,
did not and could not give pardon. She was always
pleased to hear the story of the incarnation, the birth,
life, and miracles of Christ. She was deeply touched
by the recital of His sufferings, persecutions, and death.
Illustrations of the substitutionary eflBcaey of His suf-
ferings she readily understood. She acknowledged her
god to be a man who, by the well-nigh endless road to
nirvana, had ceased to suffer by ceasing to exist. The
only claim he had to warrant his pointing oat the way
to others was the fact that he had passed over it him-
self. There was one ground, however, on which she
felt that she might claim the comfort both of the
doctrines which she still held and of ours, too. A
favourite theory of hers — and of many others — was
that, after all, we worship the same God under dif-
ferent names. She called hers Buddha, and we call
ours Jehovah-Jesus.
She had by nature a woman's tender heart. Baiev-
olence had doubtless been developed in her by her re-
ligion, till it bad become a second nature. The gifts
82 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
■he loved to make were abo a means of lading up a
atore of merit for the future. She was moat liberal in
Bending uh tokens of remembrance. These were not
of inujh value. A quart of wliite rice, a few oruugen,
cocvmbera, or cocoannta on a Bilver tray, were ao cus-
tomary a Bight that, if ever ud>- ien^tli uf time elapsed
without tliera, we wondered if llie I'riuccNH were ill.
And, ou the other hand, if for any cause my calls were
far apart, riie wonld be sore to send to enqnire if I
were ill. The " cnj» of cold wafer" w! eh slie thus so
often pressed to uur lipH, 1 am Mure, was given fur the
Maater'a aake.
Another remarlcable friendship formed during that
first year was that of a Huddliist monk, abltot of (he
UmOng monastery. An in the other case, there was no
favonr to ask, no axe to grind. He never made a re-
quest for anything, unless it were for a hook. lUit the
little novice who attended him almost always brought
a cocoanut or some other small [iresent for us. Very
rarly in our acqnaintance he came to see that the ani-
verse could not be self existent, as Huddhism teaches.
On his deeply religious nature the sense uf sin weighed
heavily. He was well rersed in the Buddhist scrip-
tures, and knew that there was no place for pardon in
all that sjstem. He understood the plan of salvation
offered to men through the intinite merit of Jesus
Chriat. At times he wonld argue that it was impoa-
aible. Pui the (hou^'ht that, after all, it might be
possible, afforded him a gleam of hope that he saw
nowhere else; and he was nut willing to renounce it
altogether.
During the dark months that followed the martyr-
dom of our nati-^e Christians, when many who were
true friends deemed it unwise to let their symi<athy
•A
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O
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X
H
b.
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a.
«^
u
H
CHIENGMAI
83
be known, the good abbot visited us regularly, as, in-
deed, he continued to do as long as he lived. At times
1 had strong hopes that he would leave the priesthood.
But he never could quite see his way to do that,
though he niainlained that he never ceased to worship
Jesus. The only likeness, plasl that I have of his dear
old face is a photograph taiien alter death, as his body
lay ready for cremation. Unto whom, if not unto such
true friends of His as these, was it said, " I was a
hungered, and ye gave Me meat ; I was thirsty, and ye
gave Me drink; I was in prison, and ye visited Me. —
Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least
of these My brethr^, ye have done it unto Me "?
VII
PIONEER WORK
HE military expedition in whicli the Prince wag
engaged detained him in the field until some
time in May. It was one of many unsuccessful
attempts to "apture a notorious Xgio cliieftain who,
turning outlaw and robber, had gathered about him a
band of desperadoes, witli whom he sallied forth from
his mountain fastness, raiding innocent villages and
carrying oflf the plunder to his stronghold, before any
force could be gathered to withstand or to pursue him.
In this way he kept the whole country in constant
alarm during the earlier years of our stay in Chieng-
mai. What made matters worse was the fact — ^as the
Lao firmly believed — that he had a charmed life, that
he could render himself invisible, and that no weapon
could penetrate his flesh. Had not the stockade
within which he had taken shelter been completely sur-
rounded one night by a cordon of armed men, and at
dawn, when he was to have been captured, he was no-
where to be found? Such was the man of whom we
shall hear more further on.
At the Lao New Year it is customary for all persons
of princely rank, all oflicers and people of influence, to
present their compliments to the Prince in person, and
to take part in the ceremony of " Dam Hua," by way
of wishing him a Happy New Year. Because of the
Prince's absence in the field, this ceremony could not
be observed at the regular time; but it was none the
84
PIONEER WORK 85
less brilliantly carried out a few <1a.vs after his return.
The name, Dam llua, means " bathing the head " or
" head-bath," and it is really a ceremonial bathing or
baptism of the Prince's head with water poured upon
it, first by princes and oUii ials in the order of their
rank, and so on down to his humblest subjects.
The first and more exclusive part of the ceremony
took place in the palace, where I also was privileged
to offer my New Year's greetings with the rest. The
great reception-hall was crowded with the Prince's
family and with officials of all degrees. The air was
heavy with the fragrance of flowers which loaded every
table and stand. All were in readiness with their sil-
ver vessels filled with water, awaiting His Highness' ap-
pearance. At length an officer with a long silver-
handled spear announced his coming. The whole com-
pany received him >ith lowest prostration after the
old time fashion. Seeing me standing, he sent for a
chair, saying that the ceremony was long, and I
would be tii-ed. The Court Orator, or Scribe, then
read a long address of welcome to the Prince on his
return from his brilliant expedition, with high-sonnd-
ing compliments on its success. Then there was a long
invocation of all the powers above or beneath, real or
imaginary, not to molest, but instead to protect, guide,
and bless His Highness' jierson, kingdom, and people,
with corresponding curses invokwl on all his enemies
and theirs. Then came the ceremonial bath, admin-
istered first by his own family, his relatives, and high
officials— he standing while vase after vase of water
was poured <m his head, drenching him completely
and flooding all the floor. It is a ceremony not at all
un|)leasant in a hot climate, however unendnrable it
might be in colder regions.
86 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
1 liis was the lifijiiininp. According to iimiu'inorial
custom, a booth was prepared on a sand-bar in the
river. To this, after the ceremony in the palace, the
Prince went in full state, riding on an elephant richly
caparisoned with ti'ai)pin<is of solid jrohl, to recpivc a
like bath at the hands of his loyal subjects — beginning,
as before, with some high nobles, and then passing on
to the common people, who might all take part in this
closinj; scene of the strange ceremony.
I was not in the concourse at the river, but watched
the procession from our saiH, the Prince having said to
me that he would call on his return. This he did,
making us a nice little visit, taking a cup of tea, and
listening to the playing of some selections on the organ.
He asked if I had selected a place for a permanent
station, and sngfjested one or two himself. But I was
in no hurry, preferring to wait for the judgment of
Mr. Wilson on his arrival. Meanw' ile I was assared
that I might remain in the salii, and might put up a
temporary house to receive the new fiimily. When I
requested his consent to the employment of a teacher,
he asked whom I thought of employing. I mentioned
the name of (me, and he said, " He is not good. I will
send you a better one," — and he sent me his own
teacher.
It was a very auspicious beginning. I knew that
neither the Siamese nor the I.fio trusted the I'rince
very thoroughly; yet every time that 1 saw him it
seemed to me that I might trust him. At any
rate, I did not then look forward to the scenes that
we were to pass through before three years were
gone.
After the first curiosity wo;:e ofiF, many of those who
came tu uur ssulu were patients seeking medical treat-
PIONEER WORK
87
mcnf. The title "Maw" (doctor) followed me from
IJangkok, where all miKsionaries, I believe, are still so
called. This name itself often excited hopes which,
of course, were doomed to disappointment. To the
ignorant all diseases weem oquallj curable, if only there
be the requisite skill or power, ilow often during
those first five years I regretted that I was not a
tri.ined physician and surj^eoo! My only consolation
was that it was not my fault. When my thoughts
were first turned towards missions, I consulted the
oflBcers of our IJoard on the wisdom of taking at Itast
a partial course in preparation for my work. Rut
medical missions had not then assumed the importance
they since have won. In fact, jnst then they were at a
di.sc(»unt. The Board naturally thought that medical
study would be, lor me at least, a waste of time, and
ai^ed besides that in most mission fields there were
English physicians. But it so happened that eleven
years of my missionary life have l)een spent in sta-
tions from one hundred to five hundred miles distant
from a physician. So, if any physician who reads
this narrative is inclined to criticise me as a quack, I
beg such to remember that I was driven to it— I had
to do whatever I could in the case of illness in my
own family ; and for pity I could not turn away tho.se
who often had notbing but superstitious charms to
rely on. It was a comfort, moreover, to know that
in spite of inevitable disappointments, our practice
of medicine made friends, and possibly enabled us to
maintain the field, at a time when simply as Christian
teachers we could not have done so. Even Prince
K^wilorot himself conceded so much when, after for-
bidding us to remain as missiouai it's, he said we might,
if we wished, remain to treat tlie sick.
88 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
In such a malarial country, there is no estimating
the boon conferred by the introduction of quinine alone.
Malarial fevers often ran on season after season, creat-
ing an anaemic condition such that the least exertion
would bring on the fever and chills again. The aston-
ishment of the people, therefore, is not surprising when
two or three small powders of the " white medicine,"
as they called it, taken with much misgiving, would
cut short the fever, while their own medicines, taken
by the potfal for many months, had failed. The few
bottles of quinine which it had beon tbdught sufficient
to bring with me, were soon exliaiisted. The next
order was for forty four-ounce bottles; and not till our
physicians at length began to orcter by the thousand
ounces could a regular supply be kept on hand. I
have often been in villages where every child, and
nearly every person, young or old, had chills and fever,
till the spleen was enlarged, and the whole condition
8uch that restoration was possible only after months of
treatment.
There was another malady very common then — the
goitre — which had never been cured by any remedy
known to the Lao doctors. I soon learned, however,
thnt an ointment of potassium iodide was almost a spe-
cific in the earlier stages of the disease. That soon gave
my medicine and my treatme^'t a repntation that no
regular physician could have sustained; for the people
were sure that one who could cure the goitre must be
able to cure any disease. If I protested that I was
not a doctor, it seemed a triumphant answer to say,
"Why, you cured such a one of the goitre." Often
when I declined to undertake the treatment of some
disease above my skill, the patient would go away say-
ing, " I believe you could, if you would."
PIONEER WOBK
89
One other part of my medical work I must mention
he since reference will be made to it later. The
ravages of smalli)ox had been fearful, . mounting at
times to the destruction of a whole generation of
children. The year before our arrival had witnessed
such a scour«,'(>. Hardly a lumsehold escaped, and
many had no children left. 1 was specially interested
to prevent or to check these destructive epidemics, be-
cause the Prince had seen the efHcacy of vaccination
as practised by Dr. r.nidley in Hangkok. and because
1 felt sure that what he had seen had influenced him
to give his consent to our coming. One of the surest
ways then known of seuding the virus a long distance
was in the form of the dry scab from a vaccine pustule.
When nee the virus had " taken," vaccination went
on ffuia arm to arm. Dr. Bradley sent me the first
vaccine scab. It reached me during the first season;
and vaccination from it ran a notable course.
The Karens and other hill tribes are so fearful of
smallpox that when it comes near their villages, they
all tlee to 'he mountains. Smallpox had broken out in
a Lao village near a Karen settlement. The settlement
was at once deserted. Meanwhile the news of the ef-
ficacy of vaccination had reached the Lao village, and
they sent a messenger with an elephant to beg me to
come and vaccinate the entire community. Two young
monks came also from an adjoining village, where the
disease was already raging. These two I vaccinated
at once, and sent home, arranging to follow them later
when their pustules should be ripe. From them I vac-
cinated about twenty of the villagers. During the fol-
lowing week the Karens all returned, and in one day
I vaccinated one hundred and sixty-three persons. It
was a strange sight to see four generations all vac-
90 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
cinated at one time — great-grandfathers holding out
their withered arms along with babes a month old.
Soccpss siirh as this was naturally vory flattering
to one's pride ; and " |)ride goeth before a fall." I
had kept the Prince informed of the snccess of my at-
tempt, and naturally was auxious to introduce vac-
cination into the ]»alaco. The patronage of the palace
would ensure its introduction into the whole kingdom.
Having a fine vaccine pnstnle on the arm of a healthy
white infant hoy, \ took him to tlie palace to show the
case to the Prince's daughter, and to her husband, who
Wed the heir-apparent. They bad a little son of abont
the same age. The parents were pleased, and sent me
w' h the child to the Prince. As soon as he saw the
pusitule, he pronounced it genuine, and was delighted.
His younger daughter had lost a child in the epidemic
of the year before, and tlie family was naturally very
anxious on the subject. He sent me immediately to
vaccinate his little grandson.
I returned to the palace of the son-in-law, and very
carefully vaccinated the young prince on whom so
many hopes were centred. 1 watched the case daily,
and my best hopes seemed realized. The pustules de-
veloped finely. All the charactp'nstic symptoms ap-
peared and disappeared at the pro[)er times. But
when the scab was about to fall off, the little prince
was taken with diarrhoea. I felt sure that a little
paregoric or some other simple remedy would spoedily
set the child right, and I offered to treat the case. But
half a dozen doctors — most of them *' spirit-doctors "
— were already in attendance. The poor child, I verily
believe, was dosed to death. So evident was it that
the imfortunate outcome could not have been the result
of vaccination, that both the parents again and a^in
PIONEER WORK
91
assured me that they entertained no such thought. But
all diseases — as was then universally believed among
the Lilo — are the result of incurring the displeasure
of the "spirits" of the family or of the dan. The
"spirits" might have taken umbrage at the invasion of
their prerogative by vaccination.
Xo doubt some such thought was whisi)ered to the
Printe, and it is not unnatural that he should at least
have half believed c. In his grief at the loss of his
grandson, it is easy to see how that thought may have
fanned hir jealousy at the growing influence of the
missionaries.
No year ever passed more rapidly or more pleas-
antly than that first year of the mission. We were too
busy to be either lonesome or homesick, although, to
complete our isolation, we bad no mails of any sort
for many months. Our two children, the one of three
and the other of six years, were a great com.'ori to us.
When we left Bangkok it was understood that a Mr. C.
of the Borneo Company was to follow us in a month on
business of their teak trade. Ue had promised to bring
up our mail. So we felt sure of get1in<» our first let
ters in good time. Since he would travel much faster
than we, it was not impossible that he might overtake
us on the way. Hut April, May, and June passed, and
still no word of Mr. C. or of the mails h,j was bringing.
In July we received a note from him, with a few frag-
ments of our long lookefj for mail. He had been at-
tacked by robbers below Uahen<;, liiinself had received
a serious wound, and his boat had been looted of every
portable object, including our mail-bag. Fortunately
the robbers, finding nothing of value to them in the
mail, had dropped as they fled some mutilated letters
and papers, which the officers in pursuit picked up,
92 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
and which Mr. C. forwurded to uh. OtherwiM we
•boald hare had nothing. We covld at least be de-
voutly thankful that we had traroraed the aame rim
in safety.
It was long liefore we were rare that Mr. Wilson and
his family were coming at all that year. It was at
least possible that any one of a thousand causes might
delay theui, or even prevent their coming altogether.
Their arrival on Pebrnary 15th, 1868, was, of course, a
great event.
Not h)ng after this we were eagerly awaiting a
promised visit froni our old associate and friend, Dr.
8. B. House. Both Mrs. Wilson and Mrs. McOilrary
were expecting shortly to be confined, and the good
doctor was making the tedious journey that he might
be on hand to help them with his professional skill in
the hour of their need. Our dismay can be imagined,
when, one day, there appeared, not the doctor, but his
native assistant, with a few pencilled lines from the
doctor, telling us that he was lying in the forest some
four or five days distant, dangerously, if not fatally,
gored by an elejjhant. We were not to come to him,
but were to stand by and attend to the ue i of our
families. He hegged us to pray for him, and to send
him some Cv)mforts and medicines.
The accident happened on this wise : The doctor bad
been walking awhile for exercise behind his riding
elephant, ai then r.t templet, to pass up beside the
creature to the front. The elephant, startled at his un-
exijected appearance, struck him to the ground with a
blow of his trunk, gored him havagely in the abdomen,
and was about to trample him under foot, when the
driver, not a moment too soon, got the creature again
ander control. With rare nerve the doctor cleansed
PIONKF^R WORK
93
the frightful wound, and sewed it up hy the help of
its reflection in a mirror, at he lay on hia back on the
ground. He dcRpatchod Mio rapsRpnger to uh; gave
careful instructions to iiis attendants as to wliat thpy
ahonld do for him when the inevitable fever and de-
lirinm ahonld come on; and resigned bimiMlf calmly
to await whatever the outcome might be.
The situation was, indeed, desperate. We could
not possibly hope to reach him before the qnestion of
life or death for him would be settled ; nor could he be
brought to us. Tlie best we could do was to get an
order from the Prince for a boat, boatmen, and car-
riers, and despatch these down the river, committing
with earnest prayer the potir sufferer to the all loving
Father's care. The doctor was carried ou a bamboo
litter through the jungle to the M£ Ping River, and in
doe time reached Chiengmai convalescent, to find that
the two I'xpected young missionaries had arrived in
safety before him. After a month's rest he was able
to retnm to Bangkok ; bnt not nntil be had amisted
us in organizing the First Presbyterian Church of
Chiengmai.
In the Presbyterian Record for November, 1868, will
be fonnd an interesting report from the doctor's pm.
Naturally he was struck with the predominance of
demon-worship over Buddhism among the Lao. We
quote the following:
" Not only offerings, but actually prayers are made to
demons. I shall never forget the first prayer of the kind I
ever heard. . . . We had just entered a dark defile in the
mountains, beyond Muang Ton, and liad come to a rude,
imageless shrine erected to the guardian demon of the pass.
The owner of my riding-elephant was seated on the neck
of the big beast before me. Putting the palms of his hands
f)i A.MoN'n Tin: siamksi: and the lao
together and raiaiog them in the attitude of worship, he
prayed : ' Let no evil happen to ua. We are aix men and
throe cli'phfiiits. Let us not bo injured. I^t nothitu; come
to frighten us,' uiid so on. On my way down the river, at
the rupiils and gloomy piism^H in the mountains the boatnicn
would laud, tftpcru would be lighted, and libations would be
|)ouri'(l, and offerings of flowen, food, and betel would be
nui<le to tin' powiTs of durkni ss."
The doctor Hpcaka also of " the favour with which the mis-
sionaries were received, the confidence they had won from all
clesaea, the itiflui'iicc of thoir nipdicinos, ami the prntul
field open tor a physician." Ilo frankly aays, "i must tou-
fcss that tlioui;h at one time I did have some misgiviiiKs
whether, all things considered, the movement was not a little
premature, T now, being better able to judge, greatly honour the
('hristi;i!i courit^ri' mid enterprise which undertook the work;
or ratiiLT bloss (iod who inspired Mr. McGilvary's heart, and
made his old Princeton frieml. Mr. Wilson, consent to join
him in thus striking out boldly into an untried field. It
will prove, I trust, a field ready to the harvedt."
VIll
PIR8T-PRDIT8
TIKIN(i tin- tirst lliii'e iiiuntlis after Mr. Wil-
hou'h arrival we were ho occupied with mis-
Bion work and with family careii that we had
not made cIkiIc*' (if llif lot \vlii( li (lie I'ritic*' had prniii-
ised to give us. Uu the ver^ day that Dr. House left
us, however, the Prince came in person, selected, and
made over to ns our present lH>aiiiifiil mission com-
pound on the east hank of tiu- Mt" I'inir. He would not
allow us to ofifer an)- compensation; but, learning after-
wards that the native owners had received no remnnera-
tion, we secretly paid them. Mr. Wilson lK'<,'au at once
to erect temporary bamboo buildings, and soon moved
to the new compound. Since it was diflBcuIt for me
to spare time for further work of building for myself,
and since the old location was an ideal one for mci't-
ing the people, I moved with my family from the .sala
into the bamboo house the Wilsons had occupied, and
we II iule it our home for the next two years.
Mr \V Isiui was preatly interrujitcd iu his work by
sickness in ais family. Little Frank had fallen ill
on the jonrney from Bangkok, and continued to suffer
during all these months. His death on November 17th,
18G8, was .'i heavy stroke to us all. In vain we com-
bined our slight medical skill, and searched our books
of domestic medicine for his relief. It was pitiful
enough to see the natives die, with the sad feeling in
95
96 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
our hearts lliat a plivsician niijj;ht Lave saved their
lives. lUit the death of ^me of our own number, so
soon after the trying experiences early in the year,
emphasized, as nothing else could have done, our ap-
peals for a physician. Yet it was not until 1S72 that
we welcomed the first physician appointed to our
mission.
During this time raids were continually being made
into the Lfio country by the renegade Nglo chieftain
already spoken of. Five hundred men from Pr6, and
one thousand from Lakawn were drafted for the defence
of the city, and were stationed near our compound.
Tht " hundreds of soldiers and workmen furnished us
an ever-changing audience. All we had to do, day or
night, was to touch the organ, and people would crowd
in to hear. The dry season of 1868-G9 was, therefore,
cn exceptionally good one for our work. We had con-
stant visitors from other provinces, who would con-
verse with us by the hour, and, on returning to their
homes, would carry the news of our presence and of
our work.
In I je fall of 1868 occurred two events which, widely
different as they might seem to be, were in reality
closely connected, and of much importance in their
bearing on the mission. One was a total eclipse of the
sun on August 17th, and the other was the conversion
of Xfiu liita. our lirst ' aptized convert. I well re-
member his tall figure and thoughtful face when he
first appeared at our saia, shortly after our arrival
in Chiengmai. He had a cough, and had come for
medicine. Ho had heard, too, that we taught a new
religion, and wished to enquire about that. Some
soothing expectorant sufficiently relieved his cough to
encourage him to make another call. On each visit
FIRST-FRUITS
97
religion was the all-absorbing topic. He hafl studied
Buddhism, and he diligently practised its jirecepts.
As an abbot he had led others to make offerings for
the monastery worship, and he had two sons of his
own in the monastic order. But Buddhism had never
satisfied his deep spiritual nature. What of the thou-
sands of failures and transgressions from the results
of which there was no escape? The doctrine of a free
and full pardon through the merits of another, was
both new and attractive to him, but it controverted
the fundamental principle of his religion.
We had some arguments, also, on the science of
geography, on the shape of the earth, on the nature
of eclipses, and the like. What he ii«}ard was as for-
eign to all his preconceived ideas a.s was the doctrine
of salvation from sin by the death of Christ. Just be-
fore the great eclipse was to occur I told him of it,
naming the day and the hour when it was to occur.
I pointed out that the eclii)se could not be causea by
a monster which attacked the sun, as he had been
taught. If that were the cause, no one could foretell
the day when the monster would be moved to make
the attack. He at once caught that idea. If the
eclipse came off as I said, he would have to admit
that his teaching was wrong on a point perfectly
capable of being tested by the senses. There would
then be a strong presumption that we were right in
religion as well as in eclipses. He waited with intense
interest for the day to come. The sky was clear, and
everything was favourable. He watched, with a
smoked glass that we had furnished, the reflection
of the sun in a bucket of water. He followed the
coming of the eclipse, its progress, and its passing off,
as ffiBzioQsly as the wise men of old followed the star of
98 AM()\(5 THE STAMESH AND THE LAO
Itethloliem — and, like them, be, too, was led to the
Saviour.
Early the next morning he came in to see me. His
first words were, "Men te" (It's really true). "The
teacher's books teach truth. Ours are wrong." This
contldent assurance had evidently been reached after
a sleepless night. A complete revolution had taken
place in liis mind; lu t it was one that cosi him a
severe struggle. His ouly hope had rested on the
teachings of Buddha, and it was no light thing to see
the foundation of his iictpe undermined. The eclipse
had started an ever widening rift. He began, as never
before, to examine the credeuiiais of Christianity. He
soon learned to read Siamese in order to gain access
to our Scriptures. We read th'» (Jospel of John to-
gether, lie studied the Shorter (i^atechism. He had
a logical mind, and it was never idle. Whenever we
met, if only for a few mom«its, he always had some
question to ask me. or some new douitt to solve. When
tempted to doubt, he fell back on the eclipse, saying,
" I know my books were wrong there. If the Gospel
system seems loo good to be true in that it offers to
pardcm and cleanse and adopt guilt,, sinners, and give
them a title to a heavenly inheritance, it is simply
because it is divine, and not human." While the tmth
dawned gradually on his mind, the full visi. u : ocmed
to be sudden. His own account was that afterwards,
when walking in the fields and pondering the subject,
it all became very plain to him. His doubts all van-
ished. Henceforth for him to live was t'hrist; ai-d
he eounle<l all things but lu.ss for the excellency oi
the knowledge of Him.
Tlie conversion of Niin Inta was an epoch in the his-
tory of the mission. The ordinary concourse of vis-
FIRST FRUITS
99
itors might be for medicine, or it might be from mere
curiosity. But wiien oue of the most zealous
Buddhists, well known by members of the royal fam-
ily, openly embraced Thristianity, the matter began
to assume a ditlerent asi)ect. What was more remark-
able still was that he urged his two sons to abandon
the monastic order. Tlie I'rince's younger daughter,
bersclf a strong Buddhisl, told nie that this was to her
convincing evidence of his sincerity. Whether Chris-
tianity were true or false, he certainly believed it true.
It was the height o ambition for every Lao father to
have a son in the order. If he had none of his own,
he often would adopt one and make him a monk. But
here was one of the most devout of them urging his
own sons to c me out and be Christians ! We re-
garded it as a favourable circumstance that the patron
and protector of this our first convert was high in
princely rank. Nan Inta's defection from Buddhism
produced a profound impression among jill classes.
Emboldened by his example, secret believeri? became
more open. Not the nnmber alone, but the character of
the enquirers attracted attention.
The second convert was Noi Sunya, a native doctor
from a village eight miles to the east. He has the
enviable distinction of never having postponed the
Gospel offer. Fie was the chief herdsman in charge
of the Prince's cattle. Coming to the city on an
errand, he called at our bSlISl to see what was the at-
traction there. As in the case of so many others, it
was the good news of pardon for a sinsick soul that
arrested his attention. On his return in the after-
noon he called again to make fuller enquiry concern-
ing " the old, old story of Jesus and His love." He
promised to return on Bunday. Promises of that sort
100 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
so often fail, that we were surprised and delighted to
see him early on Sunday morning. We had an earnest
talk together before the time came for poblic worship.
He remained through the afternoon, and spent the
night with us. In answer to a final exhortation be-
fore he left us in the morning, he said, " You need not
fear my going back. I feel sure I am right." He was
willing to sell all — oven life itself, as it proved — for
the pearl of great price. He went home, called his
family together, and began family worship that very
night. Only four brief months after this his labours
were ended by the executioner's stroke, and he wore
the martyr's crown.
The third, Sto Tft Wichai, has already been men-
tioned as receiving his first instruction in Christianity
from the " mother teacher," as Mrs. McGilvary was
called, during the very first month of the mission. He
then received the great truth of the existence of God
and of man's accountability to Him. He was an of-
ficer living six days' journey to the north, and was un-
der the jurisdiction of the Prince of Lampiln. On his
visit a year later, he received further instruction, was
baptized, and returned to tell his neighbours what he
had found. They mly laughed at him for his oddity
in refusing to jo in the Buddhist worship, and in
offerings to *he spirits.
The fourth was Nan Chai, a neighbour and friend of
Noi Sunya, and destined to suffer martyrdom along
with him. He, too, was an ex-abbot, and, therefore,
exempt from government work. He was a good
scholar, and was employed by Mr. Wilson as a teacher.
When he became a Christian, he was strongly tempted
to hold on still to his position in the monastery, ex-
plaining that he would not himself engage in the wor-
FIRST FRUITS
101
ship, but would only sweep the buildings and keep
tbe groonds in order for others. But when his duty
was pointed out to him, he readily gave up his posi-
tion, and was enntlled for regular government service.
Here were four noble and notable men at once desert-
ing the Bnddhist faith! No wonder it became an
anxioub question wherennto this was to grow.
IX
MARTYRDOM
IN the course of those events our second year of
work in Chieuguiai had ct)me to its end. We
were now beyond the middle of the year 1869. As
some intteflnahle sense of oppression in the air fjives
warning of the approaching storm, so there were om-
inous hints, and even some dark forebodings. Onr
Christian people — who understood far better than we
did both the character of their rulers and the sig-
uilicance of furtive looks and innuendoes — were
anxious. But they stood firm, and their faith strength-
ened ours.
In the light of subsequent events we now know
that the most dangerous element in the gathering
storm was the angry surprise of the Prince himself at
the discovery that the old order seemed actually pass-
ing away under his very eyes; that his will was no
longer supreme ia men's minds, nor always consulted
in their actions — this and the deep ticai liiny and ruth-
less cruelty of his nature which it brought into i)lay.
but there were other sinister influences at work also,
and among them we must not overlook that of a certain
rortuguose adventurer, Fonseca by name, lie was a
thoroughly unprincipled man, who, having played his
game in Bangkok and lost, had worked himself into
the favour of the Prince during his recent visit to the
capital, and had accompauied him on his return
102
MARTYRDOM
103
to Chienpmai. The Prince was persnaded that this
man could be of great service to him in the two mat-
ters which were then causing him most di»}nietnde;
namely, the defence of certain lawsuits involving large
sums of money, brought against him in the British
Consular Court by Burmese timber merchants; and
the getting rid of the missionaries. These last were
more in Fonseca's way than they were in the Prince's,
lie could accomplish his ends more readily if they
were not there.
The most plausible excuse that could be ofifered
for desiring to be rid of the missionaries was the failure
of the rice crop that year. In the early part of the
season there was no rain at all. When at last the
fields had been planted, one of the worst floods ever
known in that region destroyed all the lowland rice.
Then, finally, the rains ceased prematurely, and the
upland crop was cut off by drought. The presence
of the missionaries in the country had offended the
spirits, and they had withheld the rain. Such was the
pretext urged in a petition sent to Bangkok to have
the missionaries removed. The specific address of the
petition to the Minister for Foreign Affairs and the
United States Consul leads one to suspect that the
matter was directed by some one who understood the
orde official business much better than did the Lfto
Prin
T"^ ■ iister forwarded the document to Mr. Mc-
Doi the acting Vice-Consul at the time. Mr. Mc-
Donald replied to the Minister that there must be
some mistake about it. It appeared that the scarcity
of rice complained of had begun the year before the
arrival of the missionaries; it was not confined to
Chiengmai, but extended over all the northern
104 AM()X(J THE SIAMESE AND TOE LAO
provinces, lie added roguishly-, however, that be
would strictly enjoin the American missionaries to be
very c.-ircful in future not to cause any famine. Of
all 111 is secret plotting we were entirely ignorant at the
time, and learaed of it only long afterwards. While
these plots were developing, I was frequently visiting
the Prince, and all our relations with him were ap-
parently satisfactory. But we know that he was un-
der the influence of a wily and unprincipled adversary.
The other matter in which Fonseca was supposed to
he able to help his patron out of difficulties even more
pressing, was the Burmese lawsuits pending berore the
British Consul. But the British government was the
last party fo permit officious meddling with its public
business from such a quarter. It is presumed that
there was evidence of his interference witb official cor-
respondence. This much is certain — a peremptory de-
mand was made on the Siamese government for his re-
call. The official order sent up was too emphatic to
be neglected. The man was sent out of the country
in quite diflFerent style from that in which he entered
it. This man is known to have been present at the
consultation relative to the mission. If the jealousy
and suspicion on the part of the Prince did not origi-
nate with him, there is no doubt that he at least
worked on the Prince's suspicious natuie, increasing
his jealousy of the growing popularity of the mission,
and leading him to think that it would be wise to stop
it in its incipioncy.
Yet even when the blow was about to fall, we could
not believe that the Prince was so treacherous as to
plan to drire us out of the country, at the same time
that l e continued to treat us so kindly, and would
even come to dine with us. We could not believe that
MARTTBDOM
105
the younger PrioceM, who had a predominating in-
fluence over Ler father, could encourage one of the
'Christians to put himself under her protection, only
iiiat he might tlie more surely be sent to his death a
day or two later. We conid not believe that an ex-
cursion down the river bad been planned by the
Prince, only that he might be out of reach when the
executions shonld take place. We were still incred-
nions, even after we received reliable information from
the agent of the liorneo Company that he had heard
the Prince and a certain high officer consulting together
to stop onr work. The plan which he reported was
to expel the converts from the country, giving their
wives and children the option to follow them or to
remain. After all, that wonld not have been so great
a disaster. These men had no great possessions to
lose. Their banishment v/ould only plant the Gospel
in other provir r other lands.
When, in S iber, 1869, just before the fatal
stroke, the Prince started on what purported to be a
three weeks' fishing trip, we thought that his absence
would give us a respite from our present fears, and
wonld afford him leisure for better thoughts. As his
boats pushed off, we waved him a parting good-bye from
the shore. His first business was at Lampun, to se-
cure the co-operation of the governor of that province
in ridding the country of the new religion. Inasmuch
as SC'n Ya Wichai, the thii-d convert mentioned above,
was a Lampun officer, it was thought prudent in his
case to secure the action of his own immediate superior.
He was at once sent for, and was condemned to
death, but was saved by his young master, the gov-
ernor's son, on the plea that he was a backwoodsman,
and knew no better.
106 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE hkO
Of the deep designs against m and our work we
were thus either ignorant or incredulous till, on the
evenlDfr of Srpfemlier llltli, just before tlnik, our
night watohnuin came to us with the eomuion excuse
for leaving us, that some relative was dead or dying,
and insisting that he must go immediatel.v. In vain
we nrced that he must not leave us tlius in the lurch.
As a tlual argument, we threatened to tlotk him of a
month's wages. Bnt wages were nothing to him then.
<* All that a man hath w ill he '/we for his life." While
we talked to hiui, he had reached the gate and was
gone. «o, also, tied the coolc and the coolie, leaving
only one blind Ng!o who had taken refuge with ns.
Mr. Wilson then lived across the river on the new
premises, and it was not until the next day that we
learned that all his people, too, had fled in like manner
and at the same hour. We went to Prayft Tepasing,
the I'rince's executive oflicer, to enquire the cause. Ue
feigned surprise, and professed entire ignorance of
any designs against the Christians. He said, how-
ever, that the Prince had {jivcn an order that the in-
habitants of certain villages should bring in each a
hewn slab of timber to repair the stockade. Possibly
the scare might have somehow arisen from that. We
were aware of the order, and had told the christians
that if pressed for time to procure the timber, they
might each take a slab of ours. We now told the
Praya that we would ourselves be responsible for the
timbers required of them. To assure us with regard
to our servants, the I'rayu sent for our cook, gave him
a letter assuring his safety, and threatened, besides,
to have him flogged if he deserted us. The cook re-
mained wl.-i us all through these troubles, until we
could find another to take his place. For some reason
MARTYRDOM
107
Mr. Wilson did not avail himself of thii offer. He and
Mra. Wilson got on as ttey could without aenranta for
sevt'T-nl montlis.
We nuw know that the order for the execution of
the ChriHtinnB had been given long before by that
Hanic Tiiiva Tt'iiMsinfj in Hudi Tear <.'f llic I*iin<'e was
till' liit;lics( (illiccr in llu* n'jiliu! Not only had our
tiervants vauislietl — lltcie w as a sudden lessation of our
visitors as well. Few even dared to come for medi-
cine fcr fear of licinjr suspect^'d of iM'coniiiifj f'hris
tians. There were, however, a few notable exceptions,
the abbot of the Cniong monasterv being the most con-
spicuous.
Durins: tlio followinj; wiH'k Mr. Wilson waded out
across t!ie Hooded country to the hoiue of Nan V.hai,
his teacher. But his family did not dare to give any
informal i«»n concerning hini. To tell what tliev knew
would cost their lives also -so they bad be --i told. He
then went on anotiier mile to Noi Sunya's hoi i, with
t'.e same result. The wives of both these men pre-
tended to believe that their husbands had };<me to the
city to visit us. Mr. Wilson noticed that one of the
women had tears in her eyes as she spoke. PuzEled
rather than satistied by the n'sult of the visit, Mr.
Wilson ri'turntHl with the hope that, after all, the
men were still alive, and that we yet should see them
in the land of the living.
r was two weeks before our snsjtense was broken by
the certainty of their death. On Sunday morning,
September 2Gth, a Ngio friend and neighbour of the
martyrs called at my house. After looking all about
him, he asked where the Christians were. I told him
tl.ere seemed to be a mystery about them that we could
not unravel, but we hoped they were siecreting them-
108 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
selves in safet^v somewhere. Weeing that I was really
ignorant of their fate, be came doRe np to me, and
looking aioiind again fo assure liiiiisclf tliat no one
was near, lie asked, " If I tell ^uu, will you promise
never to betray me?" Having demanded and re-
ceived an «>iii]>liatic promise equivalent to nn oath, he
dn'w his hand signitkantiy arross his neck, and whis-
pered, " That is the way." His gestui-e was too well
understood in that reign to leave any doubt ai to what
was meant. The man had really come on a sad and
dangerous errand of kindness. As soon as it was ac-
complished, be hurried away, evidently fearing that
the birds of the air might hear it, or that some breOM
might waft it to the palat-e.
On Monday morning Mr. Wilson and I went again
to the PrayS. He could now no longer lie for his
master as to the fact of the execution of the mea,
hut lie offered the liinisy excuse that it was because
they had not brought in their slabs on time. We were
then obliged to chai^ him with patent falsehood. He
knew that they were executed for no crime whatever,
but only for being Christians. Poor man ! He seemed
somewhat ashamed; but what could he do? He was
not at lieart a bad man, as his letter of protection for
the cook showed. The lives of two peasants were no
great matter in those days. He bad been so trained
to execute every behest of his master, that it scarcely
occurred to him that he ou^rht to hesitate at this.
But it was some relief to know the worst, and to
know that it was known that we knew it. Before this
we had been obliged to feign hopes that we hardly be-
lieved ourselves. Now we could speak openly. The
Prince had not yet returned from his iisbing trip; so
we went to his elder daughter and her husband, after-
MAKTVIfDOM
ino
ward Prince iatanon. lu their poMltion tbej could not
■ay macii ; but they did gay that what the Prince had
done wa« not ri|^t, and that they did not approre of
the act.
One uuk'oPiti of the Hitualiou wan a tloud of tlie
wildest njmoun — some of them, no doubt, started on
purpose tf> friKliten lis awny. One of these toiiclied oa
in a most tender point. One of our most faithful
Hcr^ants, who iiuil been with us from the very first, was
desirous of visiting Banglcok. 80 we arranged to have
him po down in eliarpe of a boat tliat was to bring
up our supplies for the year, liy him we sent a large
paclcage of letters written before we had reason to
suspect so serious an outcome of the troubles that were
brewinp. While we conld not conreal some gloomy
forebodings, our reports were, on the whole, full of
hope for the speedy prt^nivss of the Gospel. The boat
left for T^anpkok a few days after the Prince started
on his fishing trip. Presently it was reported that the
boat had been intercepted, and that this man, with his
wife, his soil, and his son's family, even down to a lit-
tle grandchild of two years old. had been iiiiled, and
the boat broken to pieces and burned.
Althongh such atrocity seemed beyond belief, yet h
nuiiilier of circumstances combined to pive the report
credibility. Why, for instance, was the long, unusual
trip dowu the river taken just before our boat was to
start? What did it mean that, after the mnrder of
the Christians was known, no sum of money could in-
duce a Lfio mtiU to take a letter to Bangkok? If the
story of the fate of our messenger were true, the act
was the act of a madman — and there is no telling
what a madman may not do. He was in a position
to keep us from escaping; and if he had really gone
110 AMONG Tin: SIAMESE .WD THE LAO
BO far .'IS that, he evidently did not intend that we
should be heard I'ruiu alive.
For a time we virtually resigned ourselves to what
seemed inevitable late. When we khiUI ^ft no letters
sent, we Mcluallv l)ej;an wiitinjj the iiistorv of those
days on the aiaij^ins of books in our library, so that,
if we were never heard from aj^ain, some of the prece-
dent cireunistanees of our end iiii;4!it thus, perhaps,
come to light. It was a gi-eat relief, therefore, when an
influential Burmese, knowing our situation, offered
to carry a letter through to our friends in lianukok.
On Sepleinber l!!)(h, when the leMers earried by (he
iSurmese were written, we were s ill under the im-
pression that our boatman had been murdered, and
that neither he nor the letters and reiioris earried by
him had been heard from. It was the knowledge that
these rumours were false, and that he had passed
Rah^ng in safety, that first relieved our minds. So,
too, his an ival in Bangkok gave our fi iends there the
tirst assuranee of our safety. With this explanation
the letters themselves will give the be.-t idea of our
situation in those dark days. The following is from
a letter of Dr. S. II. Mouse to our Mission Hoard in
New York, printed in (he I'lTsbi/tciiaii Record of
February, 1870. It is dated November 11th, 1869.
" Since our last iii:iil was despatched, tiditiRs have been
Tecei.ed frdiri tlie iiiis-idii fainiliea in North Laos which
have greatly distressed and alarmed ua, causing no little
anxiety for their personal safety. This outburst of persecu-
ticii frMin wliicli they arc now sufTi riiifj; must have bt>cn quite
unlooked for, for their letters down to Soi)tember 10th were
full of encouragement Never had the king and the princes *
1 That is the Prince of Chiengmai and the nobility. These terms
are so used generally throughout this correspoDdencc.— Ed.
MARTYUDO.M
111
seemed more friendly; never had their prospects seemed
brighter. Seven interesting converts hat' been baptized
since the year began, and they had r • l bvr, enjoying a
wonderfully favourable ()i)portunity to i-ike the t<:oi^[)^l nes-
sage known to tlie people from every :< ! ot the ki ,.lom.
, , . What has caused this sudden cha j: j in vhi 'iem anour
of the king of Chiengmai toward oui" luioolo— ;ri; f» there,
does not appeiir. . . .
" Thus far tliey seem to have had no aiipreheiision for
themselves personally; but the next letter, of two days' later
(late, iiulieates that something had occurred or had come to
their knowli iiKe which led them to believe that their own
lives were in jeopardy. On Scptemlx^r 21)lh Mr. MeUilvary
writes hurriedly to his father-in-law, Kev. D. B. Bradley,
M.D., of the A. M. A. mission aa follows: —
' ' Dear Fallior and Mother: — We write in tell you that we
may be in frieat danger. If you never hear from us more,
know that we are in heaven. Scud some one up here to look
after our Christians, and do not, we beg you, grieve over the
loss of our lives. Two of our church members died at the
martyr's stake on the lith of Sciitenilier. Warrants are
out for the others. What is before us we do not know. We
are all peaceful, and very happy. We have written letters
givinp tlie full facts, but dare not send them for fear of their
intercept
•' • Luiijr Puk left here on the 12th direct for T'.auKkok.
Should he never reach you, you may fear the worst for
us. . . . He had a large mail with our reports, etc. Should
worst ( 'in(- to worst, we have counted the cost beforehand,
and our death will not be in vain. Love to all the dear ones.
Good-bye. dear father, mother, brothers, sisters, and friends —
perhaps till we meet in heaven ! ' "
Dr. House then continues:
" That these letters — the last one especially — awakened owe
deepest soli.-itude. I need not a-sorc you. The brethren
from the Pcchaburi station reached Baiifrkcik, to attr-ud the
annual session of Presbytery, the very d.iy the startling
tidings came; and anxious were our deliberations, and
112 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
earnest our prayors in belialf of tluisp Lrothron lieloved and
their holiiloss families. A inontli had then ehipscd since the
date of the letters. Were they still in the land of the living?
" It was deemed advisable that some of our number should
proceed as far up the river as possible — to Raheng at least —
to learn the existinfi: state of thinKS and e.xtend all possible
assistance. After consultation thi.s service devolved on Bros.
McDonald and George.
" Owing to the peculiar allegiance which holds the Lao
tribes tributary to the Siamese, it was thought best not to
press any doubtful treaty rightii and claims through the
United States Consul — that is, the protection they would
be entitled to claim anywhere on the soil of Si am proper —
but to throw ourselves on the friendliness and good-will
of the Siamese Government as old residents here, most of
us, who are greatly troubled lest harm should befall our
friends who are living in one of their tributary states.
What could they do to help us?
" The deputation, consisting of Dr. Bradley, Mr. Mc-
Donald, Mr. George, and myself, were njost kindly received
by the new Regent of the kingdom, the late Prime Minister —
were received in every respect as friends, and le best en-
deavours of the Siamese Government were promised. A
government official would be despatched at once bearing a
letter to the king of Chiengmai, enjoining on him to give
protection to the missionaries. But the Regent added, ' It
is difficult to deal with a man so niooJy and arbitrary as this
Chief of Chieiij^mai. lie is like King Theodore of Abys-
sinia.'— This too significant comparison had already sug-
gested itself in anything but an agreeable way to our-
selves.
The Siamese move slowly at the best, and the brethren
who have consented to go on this errand so full of per-
plexity and possible peril started several days before the
royal messenpor's prei)arations were completed. We are
waiting with thi> greatest solicitude further tidings. I must
say from wliat I know of the character of the man in whose
hands and at whose mercy they are, that I have great fears.
Others here, however, are confident that no barm can come to
tbem personally."
MARTYLDOM
113
The following, from a note of mine to the I5oard,
will throw further light on our letter to our friends
and on our situation. It was dated O' *ober 31st, while
we were anxiously waiting for the reply to our letters.
..." But the particular fact that filled us with deepest
anxiety wlien we sent that note to BaiiRknk. was a rumour
that the king had, in person, stopped a boat in charge of our
old servant whom we had sent down to Bangkok after money
and supplies, and had put him, his wife, and all the boatmen
to death. That rumour was currently believed here, and we
had so many questions asked us about th(^ni by pers^oiis in
high and in low station, that we were constrained almost to
believe it. And if that had been done, we knew not what
would cnnie next. Of course we had serious apprehensions
regarding our own safety ; yet our duty was clear. However
dangerous our position, we felt that flight would be more
dangerous. . . . Our strength was to sit still. . . .
" After waiting a month in suspense about our servants,
we have just learned, on pretty good authority, that they were
not murdered. They have been reported as having passed
Raheng. In a few days we shall know the truth. If ihey
are safe, our greatest fears were gioundless. We wait to see
the Lord's purpose in reference to this people. We yet be-
lieve they arc purposes of mercy. The excitement has some-
what died down, and we have daily many visitors. But there
is great fear of the authorities. No one feels safe; no one
knows what will come next."
I quote from a letter of Mr. Wilson to the Board the
followinji account of the sufTcring and death of the
martyrs, written January 'M, 1870, after all the various
mmours had been sifted, and the facts were clearly
known. Meantime the ronnnission referred to in the
letter of Dr. House had come, and this letter was
brought to Bangkok by it on its return. This letter
and the one cited jast above were printed in the For-
eign Missionary for March and for May, 1870.
114 AMOX* I HE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
"Till withii, ,1 very ^liurt titnc licforc tlicir pxccuI icm, we
liad no :ii)|>rrli('ii-ii)ii tliat iin.v scTion- ohvtnclc wnuld bt
thrown in tlic way of tin,' Liio Im c cniinf;' C'liri^lians. All the
baptisms had taken place publicly. The number, and some
of the names, of the Christians had been given in answer
to questions knl hy the yoiuiBcr daughter of the kinj,',
and by others of royal blood. We had become conviuced
that til" kiua must know that some of his people had become
(iiscijilirf of Josus. His two (lau}i:litcrs liad assured Mr.
5Ic(iilvary that no one should bo niokstcd for becoming
Christians. With sui'Ii an a~-urance fmni the highest
princesses in the land, we tiattered ourselves that the king
would tolerate Christianit.y. The fearlessness, also, with
which all but Xan f'liai piolV-sod Clirist. niado us fool that
there was uo danger to ilic life of any one who had received
baptism.
" Nan Chai, however, seemed anxious. Some two months
before his baptism he rojuested us to write to Bangkok and
get the King of Siani to make proclamation of religious
toleration. Not a month before his baptism he a-sked me, ' If
the king should call me and ask, " Are you a disciple of
Jesus?" would it bo wrong to say " Xo"^' \Yp kiiow that
for some time he had lovod the Saviour, but ho \va~ follow-
ing Ilini tninlilingly. His position as ovorsoiT (ex-abbot)
of the monastery made his renunciation of Buddhism a
more noticeable event, and rendered him more liable to pci-
secution than >ouio the otliors. I may here state that
those who. afti r leaving the monastery, are appointed over-
seers of th(» t( ni|ili\ are. by virtue of their position. cxem{)t
from the call of their masters to do goTernmont work, i'an
Chai belonged to this class. Tlis resignation of this post
wlii ii he bocanif a ('liri-tian. both provi'd liis sincerity, and
made him a mark for Buddliist hate and reproach.
" Noi Sunya's work was to tend the king's cattle, and in
this way he perfonnod his share of public service. He also
worki^l a farm, and was a physician. Ho v., is of a genial
disposition and flu orfui tomjier. alwa.vs looking on the bright
side of life, hapi)y himself, and trying to make others happy.
He was thus a general favourite. His receptiou of the
truth was hearty and childlike. How his face beamed with
MAUTYKDOM
115
jny thiit coiiiniimion Sahhatli! Next day, Monday, Sep-
tember 6tli, iiboiit noon, he started for his walk of nine
miles across the phiin to Me Po Ka. In bidding him pood-
bye we little thought we should see his face no more.
" Our teacher. Nan Chai. came in the following Thursday,
somewhiit sa^t lircausc tbr head man of his vilhige was urging
him for some goverunieiit work aud supplies tliat were then
being raised for the army. After resigning the oversight of
the temple, bcitig virtually without a master, he had come in
to the city to put himself under the king's younger daugh-
ti T. On Satiinhiy moniiiig. llie 11th, she gave him his pro-
tection papery, for which he paid the usual three rupees.
Some ten days before, when Mr. McGilvary had called with
him in reference to this matter, he had, at the princess'
re<i ..'st, made a statement of iiis Christian faith, even to
the repeating of a prayer.
" On that same Saturday afternoon a message came from
the head man of the village for NSn Chai's immediate return
home. The message was so urgent tliat he concluded not to
wait for the aeeustonu-d Sabhalli morning worship. Knowing
that there was a disposition on tlie iiart of some of the
public ofiiccrs to find fault with the Christians, I thought it
best for him to go home, and not return to us till quiet
should be restored. He seemed very sad, and said that hia
master was disposed to oppress him. All that I could say did
not rouse him from his depression. He took leave of us
about ten o'clock at night. When we awoke on Sabbath
morning, he was gone. We know now that shortly after
the princess had given him her letters of protection on
Saturday morning, she despatched a messenger to the head
man of the village ordering Nan Chai's arrest. Imagine
that Sabbath morning's walk of nearly nine miles, much of
the way through water nearly knee-deep! Dear gentle
heart, full of earc and fear!
" He reached home about noon. After dinner he called
upon the head man of the village; but no one knew the
nature of the conference. Ho was pi rmitte<l to slcpp at
home that night. Next morning came the order from the
chief man of the district for the overseers of the temples
and those doing the king's own work to appear at his house.
116 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
This order inoliiilfd, of cnurse, both our brethren, Noi Sun.va
and Nan Chai. Hut to make their attendance douuty sure,
armed men were sent with clubs and pikes to conduct them
to the appointed rendezvous. Noi Sunya took leave of his
wife and six children in tears. He knew what that call
and those clubs and spears meant. When tliey roachcil tlic
hoa.^e of the district chief, tiioy found a large armed force
ready to receive them. When arrested at their homes
they had been cliarged with refusing to do the kinp's work.
But now Nan Thai was asked. ' Are you an overseer of a
temple?' He answered, 'I was, but am not now.' 'Have
you entered the religion of the foreigners?' 'Yes.' Noi
Sunya was asked the same question, to which he also an-
swered ' Yes.'
" Tliey were then .seized, and after further examination
were told that they had been condemned to death. While
Nan CLai was giving the reason of the faith that was in
him, one of the examiners kicked him in the eye. leaving
it bloodshot and causing it to swell till the eye was closed.
The arms of the prisoners were tied behind their backs.
Their tiecks were compressed between two pieces of timber
(the death-.yokc) tied before and behind so tightly as pain-
fully to impede both respiration and the circulation of the
blood. They were thus placed in a s'tting posture near a
wall, and cords were passed through the holes in their ears
and tied to a beam above. In this constrained and painful
position — not able to turn their heads or bow them in slum-
bei^they remained from Monday afternoon till Tuesday
morning about ten o'clock, when they were led out into the
jungle and executed.
" When NSn Chai was arrested, his wife started on a run
to inform us, suppdsing that he woulil be brought to the
city to undergo a regular trial. In that case she hoped the
missionaries could ensure his release. She had arrived in
sight of our house, when a messenger from the bead man
of the village overtook her, and informed her that if she
called nn us, it would be at the risk of her life. She re-
turned immediately, to join him at the district chief's house;
but was informed that if she made the least demonstration
of grief, she too would be put to death- She sat down by
MARTYKDOM
her husband for a time. They conversed together as oppor-
tunity offered, being narrowly watched by the merciless
guard. The prisoners botli said. ' Oh. if the rniasionaries
were here, we should not have to die!' Nan Chai's last
words to his wife were, 'Tell the missionaries that we die
for no iither cause than that we a.e Christians.' One of the
guards angrily asked what he had said. She saw that it was
best for her to retire, and they parted.
" When Nan Chai knew that he and his comrade were
doomed, he said to one of the officers, * You will kill us; we
are prepared. But T beg you not to kill those who are in
the employ of the missionaries. They are not Christians,
and are not prepared to die.' What a triumph of faith in
this once fearful disciple! What a noble forgetfulness of
self in that earnest request for the lives of others!
" And now, after a long and weary night of painful
watching, the morning of Tuesday, tlie 14th, dawns upon
them. The hour is come. They are led out into the lonely
jungle. They kneel down. Nan Chai is asked to prny. He
does so, his last petition being, ' Lord Jesus, receive my
spirit.' The tenderness of tlic scene melts his enemies to
tears. The heads of the prisoners — prisoners for Jesus'
sake— are drawn back by slightly raising the cruel yoke they
have worn for mon than twenty hours. The executioner
approaches with his club. Nan Chai receives the stroke on
the front of the neck. His body sinks to the ground a corpse.
. . , Noi Sunya receives upon the front of his neck five or
six strokes; but life is still not extinct. A spear is thrust into
his heart. Ilis body is bathed in blood, and his spirit joins
that of his martyred brother. Their bodies were hastily
buried. Their graves we may not yet visit. . . .
" Only a few days before his death Nan Chai wrote, at
Mrs. Wilson's request, a little slip which she forwarded to her
friends as a specimen of the Lao language. The last line —
the last, no doubt, that he ever wrote — contained the fol-
lowing words 'NSn Chai dai rap pen sit leo. Hak Yeau
nak' (Nan Chai haa bectnne a disciple. He loves Jesoi
much)."
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
Al-rFK tlu' .IcsiKil.l. of ..ur luinied notes by the
1\ ,„„ably MU-e that our fnHuls wouM 1 • • ^
„,,vs „r onr silna.iun. an.l w.' were in a im-asuic it
at tha. .i.ne we stiU believed the repor «
reports, whuh we l.a.l jus, heard belu,.. ^
,.v the l'.uru,ese, thai caused the f^rcat
n iet V expressed in thou. But though we pouj^ < ut
nnp hearts and unburdened our fears to oui liundM,
ro^::^n>ien.nu,i outside of our two fan^Uj^e^^
k„ew the fear that aj^itated our breasts. For two
ul.hs or n..re we stUl feared, that we^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
treacherously nmrdere.l under eo our ns tl -u^l < re
done hv robbers or .la. nils. \N e kne^s not on l.N.ng
down at ni«ht what u.i.iu happen before dawn.
'7)ne of the hardest things of the ^i';':;-- ' J
^r^ the presenee of i'ur own dear cbddren, felt
°, Ml > poak to each other of these -atters by
« r alone, siuee it seemed wise to conceal our fea s
om Irn When we had native eallers. or m our
X to the natives, we preaehed to then, just as^
;;,t,.in. had hapi>ened. Souu- tl-t - know were
scut as spies (.» see what we were doing and what we
;:ere plaining lo do. ba.l u.-tbiu. to report except the
(l<,spel u.essa^je whieh they had heard
tLu ..as the time when a few tried friends en
THE ROYAL COMMISSION 119
(Icarcd themselves fnic-.n- to us. Ai:i(.n-; thesT was
(lie IM- iiiess Ufn Kaiii, and the abbot of the Umong
monastery, both of whom have hotu mentioned before.
The silver with a little rice or fruit from the
Trinci'ss never ceased t<> eonie; and the abbot often
made au excuse of errands elsewhere in our neigh-
bourhood that he mij;ht have ot.-asion to call and ex-
l»res8 his sympatliy.
One incident wliich occurred before :lie various
rumours had l»een cleared up, lhouf;h well uit;h tragic
at the time, Keemed afterward amusing enough. After
the appalling treachery of the younirer dan;;liter of
the Prince in regard to Nan Chai, while professing
constantly such personal friendship for us, we natu-
rally regarde<l her with profound distrust W hat, then,
was our surprise, when, one nij,dit in the darkest time
of our troubles, a summons came for me to go at once
to her palace with the officer who brought the mes-
sage. I was by no means to wait till morning, and I
could get no clue to the object of the summons. Unt
it was almost a royal command. Whatever it might
mean, nothing would be gained by refusal ; so I prom-
ised at once to go. I'.ut a difficulty arose. My wife
I)ositively refused to let me go . 'one. If the worst
were to come, she would be there to see it.
So the children were left in bed, and off we walked
three fourths of a mile in the dark to the palace. We
found it brilliantly lighted up. Was it for tlie final
act? But our fears were soon allayed. The Princess
received us as she always had done— probably a little
surprised to see Mrs. Mcdilvary with me. A foreign
rug was spread for us, and soon was produced a
formidable package of documents in English, which
the Princess wanted us to translate! They were from
120 AMONO TUi: SIAMKSi: AND TnE LAO
the court in Miiiilmcin, ;ith1 hiid rpfcrpmo to the liiw-
suits. Tlip^ had just arrived, and she could not wait
till morning. We glanced over them, gave ber the
suhstiincc nf them, and pmniisod that if she would
send her .scribe down next dav, we would translate
them. She was relieved to find that there was nothing
more formidalile in them— and so were we. The whole
interview did not last more tiian (ifteon minutes; and
when ready to return, we were escorted home by
servants with lanterns.
For a time wo had verv few visitors even for medi-
cine. Hut the monasteries were always open, and we
were welcomed in nearly all the homes of the princes.
I regularly called on the Prince. When he was in a
pleasant 'iiood, I had pleasant conversations with him.
If I found him moody or bu.e; ' paid my respects and
retired. His elder daughter J ber husband were
always pleasant, and she was always interested to talk
on the subject of ivligion.
Another friendship formed the year before was then
a great comfort to us, though no one could really help
us. .V wealthy rhinese, who hac harge of collecting
nearly all the revenue of the • vernraent, had been
shot in the city of Lampiin, eighteen miles away. A
messenger witli an elephant was sent, begging me to
come at once. It seemed at first impossible for me
to go, but finally I did so. The ball had entered be-
low the linee while the man was lying down, bad fol-
lowed the bone, and had lodged in the soft part of the
thigh. It was extracted, and I remained there till
the patient was out of danger. The wife, a Siamo-
Chinese, was a merchant, and acted as oar banker for
ten years. At this writing, the family has not yet
forgotten the service rendered.
THE ROYAL COMMISSION 121
Bat oar hoarlj tboaghts were directed to Baogkok.
What would be the outcome of our letters? We were
continually nsked what we were jroing to do. (Mir re-
ply was that, of course, we intended to remain. There
was no telegraph then, nor even a monthly mail. It
was not till Novemljer 26th that tlu- llrst news of what
was doing in our behalf reached us. It was brought
by messengers sent on in advance to notify the gov-
ernment that a Rnyal Commissioner bad arrived in
T-aniiifin, with two foreigiicrs and a train of figliteen
elephants and llfty three attendants. They were to be
in Chiengmai the next day. No intimation, however,
was given as to what the object of tlie Commission was.
Hut plainly it must l>e a matter of no slight im-
portance.
Early on the morning of the 27th every one was on
the alert. A body of men under the direction of an
oflBcer were scrubbing the old salu next door to us, for
the letter bad asked that preparations be made for
the party. A prince whispered in our ears to enquire
whether we knew what the " Kfi Luang" was coming
for. But we knew as little as he did. We were so
hopeful, however, that we began to prepare for our
guests, too. The whole place seemed in an attifude of
expectancy. The sudden arrival of a Ka Luang was
not an everyday occurrence. And then the two for-
eigners— two " white kolas " !
In the afternoon the curiosity of every one was grati-
fied by the arrival of the long train with the Commis-
sioner at its head. The two " white kolfts " were none
other than our associates in the Siamese mission, the
Rev. N. A. M(Hnnald, and the Hcv. S. C. Oeorge.
Were ever guests more welcome I The story was soon
told of the receipt of our letters in Bangkok, and of the
I'J'J AM<I.N<i Tin: SIAMi'.Si: ANh Till: l-AO
negotiations wliioli liii«l icHiiiled iu (bcir toiiiinj; with
a Koynl f'omml»(«IontT and with a " Golden Heal," M
the royal letter in < jilh d. \V»- now know di'llnilely that
the ('uinmissioucr litnl nmu' mi (lie Imsiin ss of the mls-
Hioii iiittl I he (ivaliiifnl of iIm- Clirisiiaus. iiiit <tur
brethren did not know the eontentH of the royal letter.
No huiiiJiii sa^':i(i"v <(.iil(l yrt piciiicl wlial liiiii at"
fails would lake. Was the laissiou to be sfiinvly
established, or were we to be eHcorte<l safely out of the
country? The Coniniissioner immediately nolitlod the
I'liiicc nl" Iiis anival with (lie "(inUlen Seal," and
awaited His llighuess' pleasure. The I'rimes euri
osity and anxiety were frnorantee that there would be
no ilcla.v. Nine (»'< l(»c'k next morning was nanieo as
(he hoar l«ir the aiidien<e. The Commissioner imtilied
us to be ready. An otlieer was sent With a palanquin
to escort the " Golden Seal " under the golden umbrella
to llie palace.
Mr. Wilson and I, of course, joined the proression.
On reaching the grand reieption hall at the palace, we
encountered such an array of princely state as we had
never Ix'fure seen aiioiij: the Lao. livery prince,
jaiuce.ss, and ollicer who could coiae was already there.
I quote from Mr. McDonald's olHclal report to the
Board, dated IVhruarv 'Jd, 1S70, an account of the audi-
ence. (I'nshi/tcii<iit h\cord, June, 1870.)
" The next morning after our arrival the Regent's letter
was conducted in state to the palace under the royal umbrella,
oiiil the p'ldcii triiy contaiiiiiijr it was placed on a stand
near the middle of the hall. Very soon the king eiitcreti tiic
hall apparently calm, but pale with sui)prcs8ed rage. Wo
arose and bowed to him, and then resumed our seats. The
Siamese (;fficers, however, remainci .'ostrato before him,
us dill every otluT one in tlic hall. I lir kit::^ imiiu'iliat.'ly
broke the seal and handed the letter to the Siamese aec-
THE ROYAI. rOMMIRSION
123
n-tnry to rond. Aftor tin rending of tlip litter he lookwl
lip. I'vi'lmtlv (|nili- rclii vcil, iiii'l n iniirkfil, ' Tlii-* Irttcr iIihm
nut amount to sd luucli. It givt's the niissionuriL-H privilcgu
to remain if they wish, or to po if they prefer.' "
Mr. Mrltouiilil, then, «s a iiifiiilH'r nT lh»' ("(iiiuui!*-
sion, nddrt'Hued the King, refen iiit,' In the kindnofiH with
which the niissiouiiiieH had iK-rii nrciMil h.v him uq
iIkmi- iirriviil wliirli w iis in l,n |iiiiL,' will' the fm >t3r
siiown them in IJiinjjivok, iinti w ilii the heiii'tireul naliire
of their work — hut regretting that lute diftfeultieH bud
made their stay unpleasant. Annrntr olln r ihings he
referred to tlie dcsertidii of their xtvmiIs. I'.iit nt'ither
he nor the royal letter iiiati*' tl. Ilglite t iifiivnce
to the murder of the Cbristian^. Mr. Mcrhmald thm
proceeds :
"What I said did not swm ti> mu^f lum. Ilf ii.iaiiiiitd
to suppress his rage, and repliid, • t.i -ervnnts, he had
never placed any hindrance. He hud imiI ro dcnth a couple
'if fclliiW: — a fliiiij,' wliicil lie liiid 11 riijlit t" dn, iiicc llii v
had tailed to do their allotted govcrnnieiit work. But that
was his own biminess.' "
The I'riiue evidcnily thdiight thai flu- all'air was
ended, and was preparing to close tlie audience, greatly
relieved llial llie (.ne dreaded pnltit li:id not hn'ti rc-
ferre«l to either iu the letter or in the conference. ISut
to stop there would have heen an inexeuHuhle blunder
on our part. Not only liad the good name of the Chris-
tians iH'eu tai nislied. Imt oiir o\\ !i also, if we had
riiade all this yreat fuss ahout noiliii ^. It was a dif-
ficult thing to face the T'rince !>ef<ire his whole conrt,
and char^i- him wiiii falsehood; liul he had driven us
to it. If he li:i 1 not Med. we had. l-'or once we were
called upon to stand hefore kings lor llis name's
124 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
sake J and I believe that words were given to me to
speak.
I said that I was sorry to ha coiniKjlled to say that
the Prince knew that he had not spoken the truth.
There was not a man or woman in that audience, nor
in the whole country, who did not know that those two
men had been put to death for no other pretended
reason than that they were Christians. It was done
and was proclaimed to be done as a warning to others.
They had not refused to do goveinment work. The
charge that they had failed to get the slabs for the
stockade was a subterfuge. There was not a word of
truth in it, as the oiBcer through whom it was done,
then present, well knew. When these men received
the order to get the slabs, they started immediately,
but were at once arrested, and were not allowed to
get them. In no sense were they dealt with as crim-
inals. On that very day (over three months after the
order), not one-fifth of the men in the province had as
yet brought in their timbers, and nothing was said
about it. In this country it was an unheard-of thing,
even for the gravest offences, to decoy men out from
their homes into the jungle, and to kill them there with
no pretence of a trial. There was a Sanftm (Conrt),
there were regular offlcei-s of law, evi-n down to the
executioner. In the case of these men, not a single
form of law had been observed. By the Prince's own
order they had been treacherously arrested, led out into
the jungle, and cruelly clubbed to death in the pres-
ence of a lawless mob by a ruffian hired to do it.
The old man looked on me in miugled astonishment
and rage. Possibly till then he thought we had not
been able to learn the facts and particulars in the case.
More likely be thought that no one would dare thus
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
125
openly and publicly to expose them. But what was
said had the desired effect Up to this point the
Prince's position bad heea impregnable. To assault it
successfully would have required the p-^duction of
evidence; and no man in the country, high or low,
would have dared to testify against him. Bat this nn-
expected challenge was more than he could endure.
He flung all caution to the winds. In an instant his
sole defence was abandoned. Mr. McDonald says:
" ' Yes,' he said, ' he had killed them because they had
embraced the Christiar religion. And he would continue
to kill every one who did the same. Leaving the religion
of the country was rebellion against him, and he would so
treat it. If the missionaries would remain to treat the
sick, they might dc, so. But they must not make Christians;
they must not teach the Christian religion. If they did,
he would expel them from the country' ... At one time
I feared that he might become oncontroUable. and break
over all restraints, and do us some personal injury. The
Siamese officer also was alarmed for our safety."
Matters now had been brought to a crisis. The
Christians had been proved to be not malefactors, but
martyrs. We now understood each other, and all
I)arties understood the situation. The Prince's
bravado before the Commissioner in one sense was
prdltie. He had read betweoi the lines of the King's
letter that the Siamese were afraid of him; and he
was quite willing to have it so. On the other hand, his
attitude might have the effect of convincing them that
ho wns a dangerous man, to be dealt with accordingly
— and I believe it did.
But, as Mr. McDonald goes on to say, ** It was use-
less to attempt any further argument. The mission-
aries merely told him that it was their intention to
126 AMONG THE SiAMESE AND TUB LAO
remain. Tlic conversation *lien turned to other sub-
jects, and the IMineo became more calm. After re-
tnminp: to the house of Mr. McGilvary, and after
unxious ((insiillalidii and iiraycr, it wap considered
best to abandon the mission for a time."
The Commissioner strongly advised us to withdraw.
Mr. McDonald was naturally timid, and hardly felt
safe till he was fairly out nf the country, lie and Mr.
George were sure that it would not be safe for us to
remain a single day after the Commissioner departed ;
and Mr. Wilson agreed with them. Such, then, was
the report made to the Board, and the number of t'le
Record from which we have quoted above announced
the dissolution of the mission.
The news (if the scene in the palace spread Iikc wild-
fire over the city. We had scarcely reached home when
our neighbours and friends began to send us secret
messages that it would be foolish to remain. The
Prince was like a I'on bearded in his den. When the
Commissioner left there was no telling what he might
do. The Commissioner naturally felt some responsi-
bility for our safety, and desired to have ns return with
him. I so far consented as to allow the Commissioner
to send word to the Prince that we would retire as
soon as we conveniently could. Yet, from what I knew
of the feeling of the people toward us, I could not see
that it was the will of Providence that the mission
should be abandoned. Nor did I believe that it would
be hazardous to remain. The Prince evidently had no
thoufjiit of actiinlly renouncin;:; his allegiance to Siam.
He had been directed to see to our safety, if we wished
to remain. I think, too, that I understood him better
tlinn did cither oiir own friends or the ("ommissicmer.
His bluster at the audience was for ellect. It was
THE ROYAL COMMISSION 127
more than probable that, after sober thought, he him-
self would realize that he Lad roup too far. Before
the cominf? of the Coinmissionor he liad bwn summoned
to Bangkok; he was at that time busy preparing boats
for the journey, and was soon to start. He was too
shrewd a man to wish us to ai)i)car there before him
as witnesses against him. It was, I thought, more
than probable that he would meet more than half-
way any advance made toward him, though we could
not expect him to make the ndvanee liimself.
Next morning before breakfast Mr. Wilson came
over to have a long walk and talk with me. He did
not wish to express his fears before our children. He
argued with all liis logic that it was better to go while
we safely could. His idea was (o retire to Kaheug,
where we would be under the direct protection of the
Siamese government; for, after yestei day's seem', he
was sure we never could be safe in Chiengmai. So far
as he was concerned, I thought it a good idea. He
might go, and I would remain— at least as loug as I
could. He felt, lutwever. that he would be to blame
if any disaster happened to us. From all responsibil-
ity on that score I freely exonerated him. As I viewed
the case, our personal risk was at an end so soon as
the situation siiould be known in Iiangk(»k. The
Prince would no longer dare either to do anything or
to cause anything to be done secretly, as once we
feared he would. Therefovo, notwithstanding the
bluster of the day lK>fore. fear for our personal safety
had little weight with me. But quite apart from the
question of danger, there was much to be said in favour
of Mr. Wilson's going to Itaheng. The place was an
important one for missionary work. The result might
possibly be a station in both places, instead of in
128 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TIIi: LAO
Cliiengmai alone. His departure might seem some
concession to the wishes of the Prince— would show
less determination to thwart his known will. If
there wjre any danger in reuminiug, it would be less
for one family than for two. All 1 wanted was time
to see the Lord's will. At any rate, I was not willing
to depart without having an audience with the Priuce
alone. Against this it was urged that the Prince had
a special grudge against me, because of the vaccination
of his little grandson, and that this would be increased
by my having angered him the day before. Tint of this
I was not afraid. The parents of the dear child had
begged me never to think that they blamed me for it.
As to what had happened the day before, I believed
the Prince's respect for ine was higher tlian it would
have been had 1 allowed him to bluff us with his bare
faced lie. The result of our walk was that Mr. Wilson
agreed to have me call on the Prince the uext <lay,
though Mr. McDonald maintained that for himself he
would not risk it.
So, next morning, I called at the palace at an hour
when I knew I should find the Prince alone with his
head-wife. And, just as I expected, he received me
with unwonted cordiality. I referred to the friend-
ship between him and my father-in-law, Dr. Bradley;
to his cordial consent j^iven to our coming to his coun-
try to teach the Christian religion and to benefit his
people in other ways; to his kind reception of us when
we came; to his granting us a place for a home; and
to his many other acts of kindness. We had come to
him as friends, and I could not bear we should part as
enemies. As I had anticipated, his whole manner
showed that he was pleased at my iidviince. That, too,
be said, was his desire. We might remain at least till
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
129
after his return from Bangkok, and take all the time
needed for a comfortable departure. I thanked him
for his consideration, and told him that Mr. Wilson
would probalil.v po at once. We shook hands and
parted as if the scene in the palace had never occurred.
I had won my point. What I wanted was time, and I
had gained it. The Prince could not possibly return
in less than six months' time — it might be much longer.
In a few days our friends left us. Having no faith
in the success o^ my new negotiations, or possibly
thinking that T might be caught in a trap, they re-
ported to the Board) as we have seen, that the mission
was broken up — as technically it was. This last tnm
of affairs was merely a private arrangemoit between
the Prince and myself.
Had the matter not passed beyond our power, I
doubtless should have been credulous enough, or weak
enough, to prefer that no further action should be
taken by our friends in Bangkok. I did write to Pr.
Bradley and to our mission to pursue a pacific policy,
and to show the Prince all kindness, as, indeed, I knew
they would. But I learned afterwards that their ad-
vances were hardly received with courtesy. Mr.
George, \ ho asked permission to send by some one of
the nunicrous fleet of boats some parcels to us, was
given to understand that tlie things would not be
needed, as the Prince expected both families to leave
Ghiengmai upon his return.
XI
DEATH OP KAWILOBOT
THE Coininissioner's icitoit of the attitude as-
sumed by the Prince showed the Siamese gov-
ernment tluit the man in control of tlie northern
piovinci's was of spirit and temper tliat might be
ditticult to curh-tliat might at any time throw every-
thing into confusion. Hitherto it had been their pol-
ity to stu'nfrllien liis lumds to any defjree not incon-
sistent with his loyalty. Siam and Hurma had long
been rivals and enemies. A strong buffer-state in the
north had been a necessity to «iam. Hnt conditions
were elian«jed. lUirma was now under English control,
and had iased to be a disturbing factor in the prob-
lem. A change in Siamese policy as regards the North
was inevitable.
When the news of the murder of the Christians be-
came known in Bangkok, our friends there deferred to
the wishes of the Siamese government as expressed by
the I{e^'ent— whose goodwill to the mission and to our-
selves no one doubted. No steps, therefore, were taken
to have the United States officially represented on the
Commission. In this we l>clieve our friends were
providentiailv led. I'.ut l»r. House's letter does not
state, what was also the fact, that the United States
(^onsul, in whose presence the Lao Prince had given
his official sanction to the establishment of the mis-
sion, was anxious that the United States should be so
180
DEATH OF KAWII.OKOT
131
reprpscntod. An<l when that ( 'iiniiiiisision sd signally
failed t«) atx■olUllli^sh auytliiiiy satisiaftory, it was the
Consul's tarn to say to our friends, " I told you so."
lU'causc, as tlicy tlu'insflvcs cxprcssod it, of the law-
less nature nl llie Lao Prime, and tlie consequent dif-
ficulty of protecting foreigners so far away, our
Biaoiese friends would then have preferred to have us
recalled. In fact, tiiat was their tirst thought. Tlic
first draft of the letter prepared to be sent by the ('om-
mission actually contained the stipulation that we be
safely conveyed back to Siani proper. It was only the
indomitable perseverance of Dr. Hradley— who frankly
declared that he would rather have no such letter sent
at all — that secured the omission of that clause, and
left tlie way oiicn for the possible continuance of the
mission. 80, when the Commission i-eturned to Uang-
kok, and it was known that the Lao Prince was soon
to follow them, General Partridge, the United States
Consul, iniinediately took up the case, and insisted
that tlie Hiamese government give guarantee for the
fulfilment of promises publicly made by its vassal in
the presence of officials of both governments. " Heforc
this you could say, ' lie is like a tiger in the jungle; we
cannot control hini.' But when he reaches Bangkok,
he is in your power. You can then make your own
terms regarding liis return."
ilow this negotiation was conducted, 1 am not aware.
But from the Presbyterian Record of September, 1870,
we learn that the Consul carried his point:
" Dr. House sends us word that the Siamese goTernment
hns oxteiided its protection over the missionaries in Chieng-
niai : they are not to be iiiolostc.l in their work. As the king
of ('hie!ii;iiiai is trilrutary to Siani, tliis (Icci-^ioii will no
doubt be respected. This king is not likely to live long, and
132 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tic will lie siiwecdcil by bi^ son-iii-law. a prince who haa
gbown a friendly interest in the raissionnrios. The interven-
tion of the Siamese government was obtained by the U. S.
Conaul, Oen. Partridge, not at the instance of the misaion-
nriea, but he took the ground of treaty stipulations between
Siam and our eoimtry, which accorded the right of pro-
tection to American citizens."
From the Foreign Missionary of September, 1870,
we quote the following extract from the Bangkok Sum-
mary, doubtless from the pen of Dr. Bradley:
" I am very happy to learn from the most reliable authority
that His Grace the Repent has been pleased to conmit the
American citizens in Chiengmai to the care and protec-
tion of the Maha Uparat, the son-in-law of the king, charging
him to assist, nourish, and protect them so that they shall
suffer no trouble and hindrance in their work from persecu-
tions like those through which they have passed since Sep-
tember 12th last.
" His Grace, moreover, is understood to have promised that
he will certainly arrange to have those American citizens
protected in Chiengmai acc ording to the stipulations of the
treaties, even though the present- king should live and con-
tinue his reign.
" The Maha Uparat enjoys the reputation of being a mild
and discreet prince. He received this his new title a few
weeks since from His Majesty the Supreme King of Siam,
by virtue of which he is con8tilute<l Second King of Chieng-
mai. I learn that Hia Grace the Regent has virtually com-
mitted the rule of that kingdom to him during the illneaa of
the king, and has assuicd him that he is ultimately to
become the king's successor to the throne.
" This I regard as good news, indeed, and too good to
be held a day longer from the public. Who will not agree
with me that the Siamese government is worthy of a great
meed of praise for what it has dotie in the matter of the
Chiengmai mission ( But let us see to it that the King of
Kings, as well, receives our highest praise for all these
gratifying events of His providence."
i)i:ATn OF k\wil5rot
133
While tlie (,'onsul was [tresKiiig these cluiius, Prince
K&wilOrot, as was intimated in the last extract, be-
came dangerously ill. H«' was Ktiii-ken with almost
instantaneous loss of conscionsucss, and complete
paralysis of speech. Meanwhile we in Chieiigmai, only
five hundred miles away, were in profound ignorance
of what was happening. If we had despatched a spe
cial messenger thither for news, it would i.ave been
three months before be could have returned with a re-
ply. And the first news we received was not reassur-
inj^. Word i :mie that the time was set for the Prince's
return; that he had been promoted to higher honours,
and had received higher titles; that he was retnming
with full power, and probably flushed with fresh vie
tories. Of course, that did not necessarily mean very
much. Siam understood perfectly the great trick of
oriental statecraft, the giving of high-sounding titles,
with, perhaps, a larger stipend, in comiiensation for
the loss of real power. But it was a time of great
anxiety for ns. Revenge was a passion which that
man seldom left ungratifled. Would he come breath-
ing out slaughter against the church and vengeance
on us?
By and by there came a message stating that the
Prince was ill, and directing that offerings be made for
his recovery. Then came news that he was already
on his way, and had sent orders for a hundred ele-
phants to meet him at the landing station below the
rapids. Some surmised that his illness was feigned
in order to escape the lawsuits which were pressing
him. About the middle of June we learned that he
had reached the landing station, but w^as very seriously
ill. It was still more urgently enjoined that his rela-
tives and the monasteries in Chiengmai should " make
134 AMONli TIIK SIAMK-SIC AND TllF I.AO
morit " ill liis Itebalf, and propitiate the demons by gen-
erous olleriugs.
On the evming of June 29th, while riding throogh
the streets of tlie city, sonip one railed out to me,
" The Prince is dead ! " No news ever gave lue such a
shock. I stepped in to the residence of one of the
princes, a nephew of Kawilorot, to net the particulars,
hill found him in a dreadful slate of mind. Yes. The
Prince was dead; and word had come that he (tlie
nephew) was to go to Bangkok to bear the brunt of the
lawsuits — to answer in his own name for transactions
done hy order of the dead IM ince!
How soon the stronf^est prejudices fade and dis-
appear in the preseiue of death! The anxious fears
of his return that had haunted us, all dissolved into
tender s,vuii»athy now that he was gone. We forgot
his treachery and cruelty, and thought only of his in-
teresting human qualities. We recalled his taking tea
or dininp with us. and even the dry jokes that he so
much enjoyed. He was a tender father. He could be
a warm, though a fickle and inconstant friend. In
many resjiects he was a fjood ruler. He was absolute
and tyrannical; but there was no petty thieving in his
realm. And now that voice that had made thousands
tremble was silent in death! No doubt it was with a
sifrh of relief that the Siamese government turned over
the government of the North to one wh(>m they could
better trust.
But it would 1h' a hard heart that could follow un-
moved that long, weary homeward trip of the dying
Prince. He was so weak that he could not endure the
jarring caused by the use of the set i ing jioles. His boat
had to be taken in tow of another. Wlien the last
lingering hope of life died out, his one desire was to
DKATII OF KAWII.olJOT
reach home — to dif in his own palace. The trip
throQfi^ the rapidK he could not bear, and it was too
slow for the dylof? man. Travel bv elephant is both
rouph and slow. lie is itninfjlit iisliore, tlKTcfore, and
borne on a litler as swiflly as relays of men can carry
him. Over the mountains and np the valley of the
MO rinsr, nnch r binning sun and through drivint; rain,
they hasten. At last, on (he evoninf; of June 28th, (hey
halt on the left bank of the Me I'ing, with only that
stream between him and his own connti^'. "What
land is this?" he asks. *' Lanipun." is the icjily.
" Carry uie across quickly! " lie is obeyed, but sinks
exhausted by the fatigue of crossing. He passes a
restless night. His mind wanders. He dreams of be
inj; at home; of worshii>i»inp in his own palace. The
morning comes. lie is still alive; but so weak that, in
spite of his eagerness to hasten on, at every few paces
his beartTs must halt, while attendants fan him or
administer a cordial. At last fan and cordials fail.
The liUcr is set down under the two golden umbrellas
that screen it from the burning rays of the sun. The
little group stand with bowed heads and hushed hearts
while the spirit takes its flight, to appear before its
Maker. — Almost, but not quite home, and with none
of his immediate kin by him to see the end! The at-
tendants cover the body with a cloth, and hasten on to
the next station, a few miles below the city. The pro-
cession halted there at about the very time that the
messenger reached Chiengmai with the news that he
was dead.
Such, as I learned next day from the attending
prime, werc the last lioiirs of Ili,« Highness (Miao
Kilwilorot Suriyawonf;, rrinte of (Jliiengniai. He died
at ten o'clock in the morning of June 29lh, 1870, in
136 AMONG THE HIA i>l ANI> TIli: LAO
tho sorrntietb ^ar of his offt, and m the 8ixteeatb uf
his reign.
Next morning before breakfaat I was nt for by tbe
younger daughter of Hie I'rincr (<> b ■ ti» the rrMidcnce
of the nephew, whi.in I hud hfi lua in the eveuiug
before in such a diHtracted Ktate of mind. Bow
gbocked was I on entering to find the prince cold and
dead! The I'rinci'SH wish''. u ...c; niy jtidgnient
whether he was really dead i)- . "iui hope ol resusci-
tation. Dot it required no skified phygician to an-
swer that question. Tie had ; .ideull.v died by a dosr-
of opium adniinistend hy his own 's' lds Tin litsle
cup froDJ whiih it was taken was sull it.v his binlside.
Wbetber it wm intentional Huieide to eHca|)e the law-
anita of his dc fascd m;' . <>r was sitii|' k-sisi' *1
to ease the mental troubtcM of that nighi, luey could
tell a» well as I. In either caae, be slept tbe aieep
that l^nows no waking till tbe ramraoBa of the laat
trump.
After breakfast I rode out to the eneampn» i.i, only
two or three miles away, where the ImAy of the P'-ince
was lyiiiB. The family nnd (.fliccrs ;ih.l friends ore
asscmhled to look for tho last tiiue on that ui ted facp.
The last act before idacing the body in the coffin was
to cover it throughout with gold-leaf, to give it tlte ap-
pearance of ; . ng a Huddha. l?ut no jjold leal !,1
disguise that face. The family remained there a tew
days, partly for the nn . b needed rest, but chiefly to
await a day of good at rury for carryii^ tbe remains
t' the city.
The* day was well < sen for suvh a pageant as tbe
country bad not seen to honour alike tbe departed,
and to welcome the s cceedinp Prince Thcrr wa^
long and imposing procession of soldic?*, monks, a
DRATH 'P KAVVffAiROT
13-
i!
<ke bead of
OL irt In-
Not far be-
home on a
of jel-
clU.
people uiarcliiuiJ lo till- '■■ lias «if th^ funi t ul nirg* and
to the %\ow, aolmn be^if of lirnint' N<mi
the 'iiu', on his f'ie|»hii: \v;i r
taiuuD, WMin to be Vrum' of « ugi i.
bind can* the body of the de: I Prinrr
gulden h\er auiJ ;!<-cami)ji iicd " I' >
low ! «<i [ rients. ' ' i| si.is w
:ind Oil .1 lierojul lowii. -lit h
nesa of baman poai|> snd , *eT.
ing the hurae I s Iligm ,(mI i..
f >'oi" ite elepi. ait. its 1 i;.' ' <H\y .
j.iHgs of gitld. AftP! ill*;- <;i'M(* ,
Prince's familj and other near a lative
About ffii o'cloci th ' n ;
which, by iuexorab n; ! V m
to receive the dead lot ev. ; htmfsh
whose word f<»r so !iy \ ^ ,»J
iifii!
i'r<Hi-
n onimr • ? on hninuu
jR stitioiis cu
therefore, the
There, u n
his reiuains 1;=
i-ar
i ■>■■ ni
< > lea. iiiii,
"t, »»me*l
■it\
IBooy
an-
af ■
in <tate nnti
;iter. Meant!
^ Btr
fiir
Mir ;ty U
Pr»ce I&-
-tQved me. a^^ soi
V
as i
-hi (i
- 1 its gate*
d««ii were he
its law. What
v! :i!iny of su-
III. f^ttuth Gate,
I the right, and
the EA^t (late.
. b»'"'<le ;lie river,
at ■■ uiation cere-
tDii) kept bum-
ht auf! day. A
e. ourses of monks
;hist <^remonial for the
■ ■■■ whol^' night the lieat
ni! the air. reminding-
(••raained of one of ita
• t otlieially installed,
M at the encampment,
t
it we we; to remain asd bailti oar bosses and proae-
i:;S AM()N(5 TIIC SIAMESE AND THE LAO
cute our work without let or hindrance. Other
princes and officers were pleased to give the same as-
surance. With the rriiue's party there came a large
mail fn.m friends in l!;.ngkok, givin- full pa-tioulars
of the negotiations that were 8topi)ed by the sudden
illness of the Prince, and clearing up tlie questions
about which we were so much in doubt. The interp..sP
tiou of I'rovidcnce had been so marked that we could
only Hi and in awe before Him who had so wonderfully
led us For, after the utmost stn lch of my own
rredulitv in trving to trust the Prince, my final con-
vi-'tion is that, had he lived, he and the mission could
not Lave existed in the same country. He could never
have endured to see his people bcHoniing Chrr^^t ans—
Not that he cared so much IVu- Buddhism; but it
would have been a ci>nstant challenge to his autocratic
rule. . ,
In March, while the scenes of this tragic drama were
sk.wlv enacting in liaugkok, and while we were
anxiously awaiting the d6nouement, we had a pleasant
episode of another kind. One morning we were sur
prised to learn from some natives that out on the plain,
n..t far from the city, they had passed two white for-
eigners, u man and a woman, and that they were com
i„.r to „„r bouse. Sure enough, about ten o'clock, who
should ride up but liev. and Mrs. J. N. Cushiug of the
American Baptist Mission in Burma! What an un-
expected pleasure! For throe years \xe had sinm but
two white faces outside ..f our own little circle. Some
of our latest news from home friends was eleven months
old when we received it. What a social feast we did
have! , , ,
They had started from Shwegjin, Burma, had made
a tour west of ihe Salwin Kiver, crossed over to Keng
XII
THE NEW REGIME
NE of the results of the cbaut,'e of government
was that we were able to build permanent
houses. For three years and more we had
lived within basket-woven bamboo walls that a pocket-
knife could pierce, neither secure nor wholesome nor
favourable for our work. They bore silent but steady
testimony that we ourselves did not regard our stay
as permanent. The results of our manner of living
were already seen in the impaired health of the mem-
bers of the mission. My wife surely could never have
lived another decade in the old sftia with bamboo walls
and ceiling, where the dust from the borers in the
wood constantly tilled the air and poisoned the lungs.
Mrs. Wilson bore up bravely for live years, until there
was just ready for her reception the permanent house
which she was never to enjoy. As soon as they could,
the family started f<.r the I'nited States on furlough,
all thoroughly broken down. After two years of rest
Mr. Wilson alone was able to return to the fiel'j, leaving
Mrs. Wilson behind. She never regaineil her health,
and thev never saw each other again. Uer departure
was a gi-eat loss to the mission. She was a gifted
lady, a fine vocal and instrumental musician, and a
consecrated missionary. She left one literary work in
Lao, the translation of Bunyan s I'ilyrimS t'ruyiesa,
which has since been published.
140
THE NEW REGIME
141
But as matters then were, there was much perplexing
work to be done before we were at all ready to begin
building. I was favoured in getting a lot of first
class teak logs delivered at a very cheap rate. Then
the trouble began. The logs must be hauled up from
the river by elephants to the lot where they are to be
Eawn. The log is raised and mounted on two strong
trestles. A black line to guide the saw is struck on
either side. Two sawyers stand facing each other
across the log. grasping the handles of a long framed
saw with horizontal blade. Then the operation begins.
The saw is pushed and pulled back and forth till the
cnt is carried throngh to the end of the log. This
operation is r^ated for every stick of timber pat
into the house.
But we are already too fast. Where are the sawyers
to come from? There were then no good sawyers
among the Lao. No one dared to learn for fear of be-
ing appropriated by llie Prince, or of being compelled
to work on pablic bnildings. There were, however,
three pairs of sawyers, debtors to "le Prince, whom he
had brought up from Kaheng for his own work.
Whenever not needed by him or by some other person
of rank, they were allowed to se^ employment else-
where. So, at odd times, 1 was able to secure their
services. Hut if the Prince needed them, they must at
once drop everything and go. Scores of times our
sawyers were called away, often for weeks at a time,
and at the busiest stage of the work.
And now for the carpenter. The Lao dared not be
known as carpenters f > the same reason as that given
above in the case ' f. < sawyers. Tliey wonid have
been constantly ri- .tioneil for government work.
There was in the place only one Siamese carpenter
142 AMON'l Hi. i^IAMESE AND THE LAO
reputed to tv u ^ood workman. In order to get him,
1 had to advance him three hundred nipeeB, professedly
to pay a debt, but most likely to ganil.le with. He was
to build bv eontraet. lUit he had already received
his money,' or so much of it that he was quite inde-
pendent. ' He soon slashed and spoiled more timber
than his wages were worth. So, to keep him from
ruininjj the whole, 1 had to get rid of him, even at
Home sacrilice. Just then a Siamo-Chinese turned up,
who took the job by the day under my direction, to be
assisted by some Christians whom we trained thus as
apprentices. The house was built on the plan of the
East Indian bungalow-raised teu feet from the ground
on posts, with single walls and a veranda all round.
Its large loftv rooms, screened on all sides by the
verandas, make it still one of the most comfortable
houses in the mission. It was more than eight years
from the time of our arrival when we entered it; and
even then it was not tinished. ^
Although the new govemmait was friendly, yet
some of the rrling spirits were in their hearts as hostile
as the decepsed Prince had ever been, and without his
more noble qualities. There were two in particular
who soon began to show that their secret influence
would be against the mission-and their open hostility,
too so far as they ventured to let it appear. One
was the adoi.ted son of the late Prince, and the other
the new ruler's half-brother, who had been made
Uparat, or second in power, when the new Prince
ascended the throne. Had these both lived, their com-
bined inlluence would have been nearly as formidable
as that of KawilOrot. Unfortunately, too, the actual
business of the country was largely in their hands.
Prince Intanon was not at all ambitious for pow^r,
THE NEW REGIME
143
He liked nothing better than to work without cai'e or
responsibility in his own little woitehop, making fancy
elephant-saddles, and let his half-brother rule the conn-
try. During the following jear the adopted son went
down to Bangkok to receive the insignia of bis new
rank, bnt never returned. Hia death was even more
sudden than that of liis foster-father. He wa.s taken
with the cholera, and died in a few hours. This left the
elder of the two avowed enemies of Christianity, and
the higher in rank and power. To give an illustration
of the kind of spirit we had to contend with in bim, I
will anticipate an incident of a few years later.
Two native Karens, ordained ministers, were sent by
the American Baptist Mission to initiate in Lao ter-
ritory a work among the Karens, a hill-people scat-
tered sparsely throaghoat all the mountain region be-
twem Siam and Bnrma. The native evangelists
brought with them letters from the missionaries in
Burma, requesting us to aid them in getting LSlo pass-
ports. We went with them to the new Prince, and he
very graciously gave direction to his brother to see
that passports were issued, stating not only that the
visitors were to be protected and aided as travellers,
but also that they were to be allowed to teach the new
religion, and that people were allonrad to embrace it
without fear.
I was specially interested that they should succeed
in the first village which they were to visit, for it was
the one where I had vaccinated the whole population
during the first year of our mission. Since 1 had
faited to make Christians of them — partly, as I sup-
posed, on account of my ignorance of their language,
but more on account of the persecution which fol-
lowed so soon after — 1 hoped that when the message
144 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
was delivered in their own tonjjue. with offiiial i>er-
mi8«ion to embrace it, the whole village might aecept
the Gospel. What was the •stoniAment of tta
preaehen that, instead of being received with ibe char-
acteristic hospitality of tlu ir race, they hardly found
common civility! At last they learned tlB reason.
The Chao Uparftt had secretly despatched a special
messoiger with a letter under his own seal, forbid-
ding any Karen subject to embrace the new religion.
All who did so were to be reported to him. What
that meant, «r what he wished them to infer tifflt it
meant, was well understood.
Our readers, therefore, will not be surprised that
we found it necessary to keep an eye on the Chao
Upar&t, and to use considerable diplomacy in coun-
teracting bis schemes against the church. It was my
policy in those days to keep up as close an acquaint-
imce as possible with the members of the ruling fam-
ily. It was the misfortune of all of them that they
were ignorant ; ' and ignorance begets suspicion. Some
of them were naturally suspicious of the missionaries.
They could not understand what motive could induce
men who were neither government officials nor
merchants, to leave a great country and come to live in
theirs.
Two objects were gained by keeping in contact with
the rulers. They saw, then, with their own eyes, and
heard with their own ears, what we were doing. In
nearly every interview our one great work was mag-
nified alike to prince, priest, and people. I have here-
tofore specially mentioned princesses, too, as well as
princes, in this connection, because the LHo have a
> Thto same Uptrat, whole word ruled the country, w«i uuUe to
writs his own orders.
TUE NEW Rf:(JIME
145
proud pre-eminence among non Christian races in the
position accorded to woman. In the family, woman's
authoritj' is universally recognized. At the time we
spealv of it was much the same in the government also.
The influence of women in atlairs of state was doubt-
less greatly increased daring the prerions reign, when,
there lioing no sons in the royal household, the
daughters naturally became more prominent. They
were trained to understand and to deal with public
basinem.
1 have a i ready referred to the kindness of the elder
daughter, now not, as in former reigns, the head-wife,
but the only w^ife of the new ruler. By birth she was
of higher rank than lie; and she was in every way
worthy of the high position she now assumed. Hers
was, in fact, the strong intelligence and steady will
that kept her more passive consort from errors into
which he would otherwise have been led. At this par-
ticular juncture she was needed as a check against
the Prince's more ambitious and less principled half-
brotlier. 8he had a woman's instinct to discern a
point, and a woman's revulsion against lawless acts,
even when done by her own father. In honesty of
purpose she and her consort were one, for his kind-
ness of heart had drawn to him more dependents than
any other prince in the land pijssessed. The murder
of the Christians tliey both regarded as " worse than a
crime— a blander." For the presoit, however, ther«
was no indication of the sinister forces which came
into play later. All in authority seemed to be hon-
Mtly carrying out the orders from Bangkok concern-
ing the missionary work.
A year was spent in preparation for the ceremonies
attending the cremation of the dead Prince. During
146 AMONG TUi: SlAMESi: AND THE LAO
the last tlirce monilis of this time, everything else in
the whole land yielded place to it. Not only web there
requisition of men and materials throughout the prov-
ince of Chiengmai; but all the neighbouring stales fur-
niKhed large levies of men under the personal direction
of their princes or officers of rank. Such occasions
oflfer exceptional opportunities for meeting people from
all parts of the country, for foriniiig lasting friend-
ships, and for sending some knowledge of the Gospel
to distant provinces. In after years I never made a
tour on whith I did not encounter friends whose ac-
quaintance 1 had made at the great cremation fes-
tival.
The preparations were hastened somewhat because
of the unsettled state of the country. Chao Fa Kolan,
the NgT<» freebooter of whom we have already heard,
was still at his old tricks. Emboldened by the death
of the Prince, and the confusion incident to the diange
of rulers, he had become more insolent than ever.
Villages had been burned within less than a day's
march from the city. Bands of men, euphemistically
called an army, were levied and despatched to capture
him; but long l»efore they could reach him, he was
safe within his stronghold in the mountains.
The dead Prince was bom on a Sunday ; therefore
every important event of his life must take place on
that day, even to the last dread summons, w>>!ch is
not under man's control— and beyond that, to the
final disposition ' his mortal remains. Sunday,
therefore, was the lirst day of the ceremonies. On
that day the body was removed from the summer gar-
den to the " Men," where i i was to lie in state to re-
ceive the homage of his relatives and subjects until
the following Sunday. The morning of each <lay was
LRtM.VTlON I•RO^Jt^SlaN
THE Ni:\V Kf:(JI.MIO
147
devoJeti to " oierit-niaking " of various kinds — feed*
log the monks, making offerings to tbem, and listening
to the roa<Iiu{; of tlie sacred books. The afternoon*
vcre largely s[»cnt in Ixtxing pnnu-s, a favoiirito aniUKe-
inent of the Liio. Tlie cveuiugb were given up to
gambling.
l']vprythinK went on according to programme until
Thursday morntug, wlien tlie festivities were rudely in-
terrupted. Ghao Fa Kdlan, the liatidii chief, taking
advantage of the occasion, made one of his sudden
forays to w ilhin so sliort a distance ot ("liicnpniai tliat
he actually hud posted on ttte city gates during tite
night an insolent manifesto to the effect that the as-
sembled Princes need not tnniblf themselvi-s fmtlier
with the creination of the dead I'rince. He and his
band would attend to L'lat ! The news produced a
tremendous panic. The whole basimss of the crema-
tion was incnntinently stof.pefl. A force was sent out
after the marauder — with the u>ual result. Before the
end of the week, however, the panic had sufficiently
snbsided to permit the ceremonies to he resumed. The
cremation itself was carried out on the following Sun-
day as planned.
During all these years the demand for medical treat-
ment, and the opportunity which i!s exercise brings,
had been constantly growing. I made, for example,
a second trip to Lampun, this time at the ( ill of the
Chao Uparat of that city. The poor man had con-
sumption, and at first neat to me for some fnrei<;n
medicine, thinking that would surely cure him. Judg
ing from his symptoms as reported, I sent word that I
could not cure him; that the soothing mixture which
I sent was sent in hope that it might give him a few
nights' rest ; but that was all I could do. I'resently he
148 AMONG THI. silAMEHI. AND TMH UAO
Bentanelepbunt with a mo; I in;" nt iii«i'<'iil » eome
to see him. 1 waK glad of ilu> call, for it guvi> lue the
opijortuntty of directing a dying man to Bomethlng
even more urgently nwdotl tb;.n incdiiiiw. I -pent
M w dii.vs with liim. and visit d all of the leading
faroilieH aud ofllcials of tlie ida<e. eHtabllshing most
valuable and friendlr relations with them.
Long before this both the dcnumd for
i,-nl itviittiiHit and the resi.oni..ibility involved far ex-
ceeded what uuy [wrnon without complete profetwional
training could undertake to meet. Wo bad urged
upon our Hoard tli.' clainis of our mission f(.r a physi-
oian. The following touching api»eal. which appeared
in the Fort ign Mitaiomm for March, 1870, was made
by Mr. Wilson not long after ihe doatb of bis son
Frank. After sending an earnest appeal from Nan
Inta for helpers, Mr. Wilson says:
"Of couw Nun Intn'a call for help includes
Christian physician. Who will respond? I am connnoed
there are many younp men in t!,r medi-'al profe^^sion whoM
lovp for Jesus and whose sympathy with human sufferings
an. strouK enough to bring them all the way to Chiengmai,
if they will but yield themselves to this constraming influ-
ence. Christian physirian, yon are greatly needed here. The
miMionary's family needs you. This suffering people needs
yon. You were needed months since, when a voice so sweet
and full of glee was changed to piteous shrieks of pain. You
were not here to give relief; and if yon now come, it will
not greet you, for it i« hushed in .leath. You are^ needed
heie now. A plaintive cry comes to mc as 1 .vrit^'. It is tho
Toice of our dear babe, whose weak condition fills our hearts
with deepest anxiety, ifay I not interpret this plaintive
cry as addressed to you? It is the only way that M. has
of saying to you, 'Come to Chiengmai.' When you arrive
•he may be sleeping beside her little brother. But yon will
find others, both old aad young, whose pains you may be able
THi: Ni \v Ki':<iiMi:
to soothe, and whose souls) you may win from the way that
iMda to eternal death."
Great was our joy, therefore, when, in the Hunmipr
of 1871, we learned that T>r. C. W. Vrooman, from
Dr. Cnyh'i < ihm. h in Brooklyn, had responded to
our apiical. :iimI iilicady w.is iin<l«'r npi ntnient of our
Hoard for « :hi<ii}{iiiui. His arrival wum delayed Houie-
what becaaae it was thought miRafe for him to make
the river trip dininjj the h«'i<rli' nf ilie rainy seaHon.
Ko it was January L'Ud, 1S72, hefore we welcoiiie<l
him to Chiengmai. He came with high credentialM as a
phyaician and aurgeon W''h experience both in private
and in hospital practic*- Ho h«'<;!in worlv on the day
of his arrival. He found Nan Inta at the point of
death from acnte dysentery ; and his flwt trophy wa»
thf Having of that prwious lit.-. Had he done nothing
else, that alone w.mld havo been wel' worth wh'lf.
One or two operal ins for venioal cuiculua p.? 'e him
Bwh a reputation thu t patioits came crowdii!^ . < Mm
for reli^. In his first report be writes :
" T WAS very glad to commence work as soon as T • ' ,
in the field. The mimher was larf^e " those who cumio to
til'- brethro!! Tc for daily treatment; and such is the repu-
taiion whicii tJioy have established for themselves as ^lysi'
cians, that the demand for our professional services greater
than we can properly meet. T am sati:;fied that the demand
for a niidical missionary her(» wn- not too fongly urged
by the brtHhren in their earnest appeals to the Board.
" I have already had much professional worit to do, and
while I am minisferinr t-> 'hvsical ailments, Brother Mc-
Gilvary, who is kiiidiy my jnterpreter, has opportuiiity to
break unto many the br. l <n life. . . . Two men have
just left who came a lon^ distance, hoping we <K>ald bring
to life a brother who bad died hoars heion.**
XIII
EXPLORATION
NOT long after Dr. Vroomau's arrival it was de-
cided to undertake our first extended tour. It
wa8 inip..rtant to ascertain the size and pop-
ulation ..f <.nr whole field: and this eould be accom-
plished only bv personal exploration. A journey for
this pnrpcwe would, of course, afford abundant oppor
tnnitv for preaching the Gospel; it w-mM. beside^,
L'ive the doctor a needed change, and woiilu eflfectually
advertise his work. Our objective was LQang Prabang,
then one of the largest of the provinces of Siani, as It
was also the most distant one. A journey to it seemed
the tnosi pn.titi.ble that could be made during the time
at our disposal, and the most comfortable as well,
since a large stretch of it cot.ld bo ...a-h' by boat It
WIS iiln-n.h t<.o late in the season to accomplish all
that we .Icsind; but ' half a loaf is better than no
bread " It might be years before a longer trip could
be made. As a matter of fact, it was sixteen years be-
fore I visiled Luang I'rabang again.
The IMimc gave us a passport, sending us as his
pnests to be entertained without exiK iis. -. though, of
,M,rs,., w.' always paid ..nr way. Our letter stated
that we went as teachers of religion and as physicians
for the sick. It was a virtual proclamation for all
the sick to ni.plv to us f.u- tn ;.tment. This gave fre-
quent octusiou for retort that we did not remain long
100
EXPLORATION
151
enoagh to comply with our letter. We could only re-
ply by pointing to the clouds and the long journey
ahead.
The pnrty consisted of Dr. Vrooraan, myself, a coolc,
a body-senrant, and eif?ht carriers, with a newly
baptized convert as ilio «>nly available assistant in the
religions work. The elephants re<inirefll for our trans-
portation over the first stage of our journey — to Chieng
Rai — we had secured, for a wonder, without effort, and
very clipaply. Their owner was anxious to got Ihcni
out of the country to escape an epidemic which then
was prevalent. The start was on April mth, 1872, after
a heavy storm which ushered in the rainy season. This
was my first trip over the road to chienf^ Ilfii. after-
wards so familiar to me. After leaving the plain of
Chiengmai, the road ascends the valley of the M£
Kuang River, fording that stream no less than forty
nine times before it reaches the summit. .'ilflO feet
above sea-level, the watershed between the Me IMng
and the M£ K9ng.* Thence it descends to the Md Kok
at Chieng RSi. The owner of our elqihants travelled
' III standard Biame!ic the vowel in the name of this gimt rivrr is
uudoubtedly long o, and has be^n so since the days of the earliest
Siamese writin;;. Such also seems to liiive been the uiidcrstfindinK
of the early tifivcllcrs who first broiicht the name into Kupipean
use. for Mekong is the uniform s[H'llinc of all the slanil ird Atliises
anil (I'lZi-ttecrs which I Iiiive bpi-n able to consult. In lln; I/io dta-
Ici't. lio-'-nvor. the vowel is that represented by mr in /,nrii. This is
Itie proiiiinciation which Af v .1. McCarthy. Director of the Siamese
Koyal Survey Department, heard in the North, and transferred to
the Map of Slam, which he (torapllud, as Me Kawug. This, liow.
ever. Mr. R. W. Qlblin, Mr. McCarthy's successor in office. rccoR-
nized M an error, ud assured me that it should be corrected in the
new map whioh he hoped soon tn publish. Mr. Giblin, however,
has left the lervlce, and the map, I fear, has not yet been iMued.
But since Hiameae speeeh and the usage of geographical authoritlea
are at one on this point, there can scarceiy be qoHtion aa to tiw
proper form for use here.— £o.
152 AMONG THE BIAMKt^E AND THE LAO
with us, and was unnecessarily tender to liis beasts.
In consequence we were ten days making this stage
of the trip, which afterwards, with my own elophauts,
I used to malie in less than six. On this trip 1 wallied
almost the whole distance.
At Chieng Rai we were cordially received. The gov-
ernor listened to the Gospel mcssajje. and, I l)eli('vo,
received it in faith, as we shall see later. Thence we
toek boat down the Me Kok to its junction with the
M6 K6ng. The sand-bar where we spent the Sabbath
was covered with fresh tracks of lar};e HenRul tip-rs.
Shortly after this we passed out of the Me Ivok into
the great M6 Kong, with reference to which I take
the liberty of quoting from a recent work, Five Year$
in 8iam, by H. Warrington Smyth, F.K.G.S.
" FeTf can regard the Me Kawng without feeling its pecu-
liar fast illation. That narrow streak connecting far coun-
triea with the distant ocean,— what scenes it knows, what
stories it could tell! Gliding gently here, and thundoring
with fury there where it meets with opposition; always con-
tinuing its great work of disintegration of hard rocks and
of trwisport of material; with inlinitc patioi.cr- hewing down
the mounUin sides, and building up with them new coun-
tries in far climes where other tongues are spoken; it never
stays its movemont. Ilnw few men have seen its upper
waters! What a lonely life altogether is that of the Me
Kawng! From its cradle as the C.orpu Kiv. r in th.' far
Thibetan highlands, to its end in the stormy China Sea, it
never sees a populous city or a nahh building. For nearly
three thousand Kiil. s if storms through solitudes, or wan-
ders sullenly through jungle wastes. No wonder one sat by
the h^ur listening to its tale. For though but iull to read
.,f, the wide deep reality rolling before one had an intense
interest for a lonely man.
• Rising in about 33° 17' N. Lat. and 94° 2.5' F. Long, m
the greatest nursery of noble rivers in the world, where six
EXPLORATION
153
huge brethren have so long concealed the secrets of their
birth, it Hows southeast through Cliiru'so Thibetan territory
to Chuaiiile, where the tea caravan mad from Lhasa and
Thibet on the west, crosses it eastward towards Ta CMea Ltt
ud China, over 10,000 feet above aea level."
Almost w ithin sifjlit from the mouth of (he Md Kok
were the ruins of Chieng S6u, once the largest city
In an thin rej^on. Its crumbling walls enclose an
oblong area stretching some two miles along the river.
Seventy years before our visit it had been taker by a
combined army of Siamese and Lfio. Its inhabitants
were divided among the conquerors, and carried away
into captivity. At the time of our \isit, the city and
the broad province of which it was the capital had
been desolate for three-quarters of a century. Nothing
remained bnt the dilapidated walls and cmmbling
ruins of old temples. Judging from its innumerable
iumges of I^uddha, its inhabitants must have been a
very religious people. One wonders whence came all
the bronze used in making them in those distant days.
To me it was an unexpected pleasure to find myself in
that old city, the ancestral home of so many of our
parishioners. Little did I think then that twenty
years later I should aid in organizing a church where
we then stood. The M/^ Ki^ng is here a mighty stream.
It must be a magnificent sight in time of high
water.
A short distance below the city we passed a vil-
lage recently deserted l)ecause of the ravages of the
tigers. The second day from Chieng S£n brought us
to Chwng Kawng. one of the largest dependencies of
the provincj' of Nfui. There we spent two very inter
esting and protitable days. 1 had met the governor
in Chiengmai. He was delighted with my repeating
cut
154 A.M()N(J Till-: SIAMESE AND THE LAO
ride, and had us try it before him. There was also
his 8on, who not long after was to succeed the father;
but his story we shall come upon some twenty years
At this place we were fortunate in finding an empty
trading boat going to Luang PraMng, in which the {i..v
ern.)r oui^navil Un- us passage on very reasonable terms.
We left VAxH'Ui; Kawug on May M. The trip to Luang
I'rabaug occupied five day«, and was one of the
memorable events of my life. In some respects the
scenerv is not so strikinj,^ as that of the m Ping rapids.
Till' breadth of the river makes the difference. You
miss the narrow f,'»>'^'t' with overhanging cliffs and the
gndden bends closing in every outlet. But, on the
other han.l. vou have an incomi.arably gi-eater river
and higher niountains. 1 quote again from Mr. War-
rington Smyth the following toription of one portion
of the river scenery :
"The high peaks, towering 5.000 feet al.oTC the river,
which tri»o it such a sombre appearance, are generally ot the
very extensive limestone series. They present tremendous
precipices on .ome of tlieir and their outlines are
particularly bold. . . • Some mdes above Luang Prabang
the large and important trihntaries of the ^aln TT and the
nL ^ng enter the Me Kawng. The clear transparent
water of these tributaries fomw a strong contrast to the
brown scliment-laden water of the Mc Kawng. . . . In
some of the rapids with sloping l-ottoms, the tir.t jump over
th.. edge is very pleasant; fun then comes m the short
^n■>rIn^' wav,-. Kv..rylm,i.v .m hoard is fully occupied; the
men at the how-car canting her head this way and that,
the helmsman helping from tlu^ other eii.l to make lu r take
it. straight, the men at the oars puUing for all they are worth,
unci the re.t hailing mightily, or shouting t- any one who has
time to listen. If the rapid is a bad one. the crews land to
have a moid before tucklaig it. and stop to chew some betel
EXPLOBATION
155
and etoB^tm notes after it So it U ahrasv • aociabla
My travelling companioo. Dr. Yrooaian, thas gives
his improwioiiM.
"The enrrmt of the Cambodia is very swift, in plaeea
80 much so that it was daiiperous to naviiratc. The river is
nearly a mile wide in pluc's; and wliere the channel is nar-
row, it rushes along with frightful rapidity. No scenery is
liner throughout the entire distance we travelled on it.
Mountains rise from either bank to the height of three or
four thousand feet. The river fills the bottom of a long,
winding valley; and as we glided swiftly down it, there
seemed to move by us the panorama of two half-erect hang-
ing landscapes of woodland verdure and blossom. Only as
we neared the city did we see ro igh and craggy mountain
peaks and barren towering precipices."
Twenty-aix yeans later I descended the M6 0 River
from Mfiang Kwft to Lfiang PrabSng, and th^ aaeended
it again. The i)erpendioular rock cliflfs at its junction
\^x'a the M£ Kong surpass any that I ever saw else-
where.
Of greater interest to me, however, than roaring
rapids and towerin^r rocks were the ovidonces of
numerous human habitations perched far above us on
the monntaitt sides. Rarely can their houses or vil-
lages be seen ; out in many places their clearings have
denuded the mountains of all their larger growth. It
was tantalizing nut to be able to stop and visit these
people in their homes. But my first opportunity to
make extensive tours among them was not till some
twenty years later. As for the Kong, my comment
is : If I wished an exciting river trip, and had a com-
fortable boat, I fibould not expect to find a more en-
1C6 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
chanting stretch of three hundred miiea anywhere etae
on the face of the earth.
Luang Prabang was then the moat compactly bnilt
of all Siamese cities outside of Bangk<^, which, in
some respects, it resembled. It differs from the other
Lao cities in having no great rural population and ex
tensive rice plains near it. Its rice supply was then
levied from the hill-tribes aw a tribute or tax. The
» itv has a fine situation at the foot of a steep hill some
two hundred feet high, tipped, as usual, with a pagoda.
The Nfim Ktag there joins the M6 Ktog, dividing the
city into two uneiiual portions. The view from the
top of the hill is deliKbtful. The inhabitants belong
to a large branch of the Tai race, extending southward
at least to Cambodia. They are called the Lilo Pung
Khao (White bellied Lao), as ours, because of their
imiversal practice of tattooing the body, are called Lao
Pung Dam (Blacli-l>tUied).
The Prince of Luang Prabang was absent from the
city hunting wild elephants, in which game his prov-
ince abounds. The Chao Uparat gave us a hospitable
welcome. Behind the city is a noted cave in a
mountain, which the natives think is the abode of
the very tlcrccst ( > il spirits. No doubt the real spirits
are the malarial germs or the poisonous gas which
later we found to be the chief danger of the Ohieng
Dfio cave. It was in this cave that M. Mouhot, a
noted French scientist, contracted the fever from which
he died. The natives believed that his death was
caused by his rashness in trespassing uprm the domain
of the spirits who preside over the cave. We were
astonished at some sorts of lish displayed in the
market, such as I never saw anywhere else. Mr. Mc-
Carthy tells of assisting at the capture of one, a plft
EXPLORATION
157
Irak, seven feet long, with a body-girth of fonr feet
and two inches, and weighing one hundred and thirty
pounds.
We remained in Lnang Prabfing six days, leaving it
on May 14th. I was very ioalh to ro so hood. The
people were eager for books jis well as for inodicine.
It was the one place where Siamese books were well
understood. We conld have disponed of basketfnls
of the Scriptures, as Dr. IVoplcs did twenty four years
later. It is one of the anomalies of tlie twentieth cen-
tury that when we finally were ready to establish a
Christian mission, after the country had passed from
non Christian to Christian rolers, we conld not get
permission.
From Lflang Prabftng we again took boat to Tft Dt^a,
some sixty miles below. There we bade good bye to
the wonderful river, and turned our faces homeward.
Our elephants were good travellers, the swiftest we
had so far fonnd. They gave ns no chance to stroll
on in advance, and rest till they should come up, as
we had done before. They brought us to Nan iu six
days, four of which were spent in travel over high
mountain ridges. Our road passed near the great salt
wells; but we had no time for sight-seeing.
Two experiences on this portion of the trip will not
be forgotten. One was a fall from my tall elephant.
A flock of large birds in covert near us suddenly
flew up with loud shrill cries. I was reclining in the
howdah at the time, and raised myself up to look out
under the hood, and, while suspended there in unstable
equilihrinm, another and loiuV'r cry dose at hand n.ado
the beast give a sudden start backwards, which landed
me in a puddle of water. Fortunately no further dam-
age was done. Another annoyance, more serious, was
158 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TOK LAO
the land leeches which we often encountered when we
dismounted to walk. The whole ground and every
shrub and twig seemed covered with the tiny ctMtMBfc
gensitive to the leant noise, each one was holding
on bv his tail, and wavinp his head back and forth
to lav hold of any passing animal. We soon found
that they had a special fondneaa for the gemt§ homo.
Do what we might, every hundred jards or so we
had to stop »<. rub them off, while the blood ran
profusely fiom their bites. We had none of the herba
which the Mus6 bind on their legs to keep them off.
On Saturday evening we renched Nan, the first place
where 1 found friends since leaving Chieng Rili. Chao
Itiu irak, whom I had met in Chiengmai, nephew of the
Nan Prince, and a few others, were soon on hand to
pivc us welcome and to offer any aid we needed. The
Prince was a venerable old man, with four sons— toe
men, all of them. The country waa well governed,
though it long continued conservative as regards the
adoption of foreign ways and the welcoming of foreign
trr-'.ers. 1 fell in love with NSn at flrat sight, and
IT .»ed it for a future miaaion station.
On our .Icparture from Nun. (^hao Borirak accom-
pani^wl us as far as Pr6, bringing his own elephanta—
one of them a colt, which he rode astride like a horae—
the only one, in fact, that I » ver saw so uaed. At Pr«
we found our f^ovcrnment 1.-tier not very effective.
Rupees, however, were effective eiio'igh to prevmt any
long delay. The ruling authority in Frt haa alwaya
seemed weak.
There was an amusing circumstance connected with
an eclipse of the moon while we were there. BIn<»
the conversion of Nto Inta, I had taken pains to
announce each eclipse as it waa to occur. I did »o in
EXPLORATION 168
Pr6 the day before it was due. The eclipse took
i»laee early in the niyht, and 1 exi»etted to hear the
dty resouud with the noiae of efery gnn uid Am-
cracker in the place. Hut everyfhiujj was as .|uiet as
a funeral. It aeeuied to Im? rej^nrded a.s our eclipse.
The sitence may have been intended to tewt our usser
tion that Rflha would reaotince his hold without the
noi«', or |>osNibl.v thf ,v w»>re imwilliti},' t<. proclaim thus
publicly the sujienor wisdom of the foreigner in
predicting it. At any rate, they utterly ignored it,
and let the uionsfer have his will unmolested.
My associate liad Kaintd all (hat could have l)een
expected from tlie f.)ur; but an aching tooth was giv-
ing him tjreat trouble, and we harried on. We reached
home on .Iniie L"_M. just sixlv-eight days out. We
f. iind neither family in very good health. The th.v
tor's toothache drove him to such deHi)eratiou that he
insisted on my trying— all unpractised aa I waa— to
extract the offending e.velooth. It liroke. Ther^* was
th«» nothing to do but to make (he trip to Bangkok
for the nearest prafeMlonal help. By the time he re-
turned, it began to U- evident that he conld not hope
to remain long in the field.
Between Hangk.ik, Pechaburl, and Chiengmui, I had
been fifteen years in the tleld; and my wife had been
in the country front ffirllKu d without change. We had
both endured it remarkably well, considering that we
had had the strain of starting two new stations. Be-
fore the end of the year, however, my wife bad reached
the limit of Iter strength, nn<l it l»ecanie necessary to
hnrry her out of the country. Ho, on the 3d of Janu-
ary, 1873, she was carried in a chair to the boat, and
we embarked for the United Btatea.
MICROCOPY RESOLUTION T£ST CHART
(ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No. 2i
j£ APPLIED irvVIGE
Las\ Mtjin ^ifeet
Rochester. New jrk UfcO^ ijSA
'""6; 0300 - P'>one
'It-} .^fl» =1989 - Fa.
XIV
THE FIRST FURLOUGH
HE tour of the previous season had been so
hasty and unsatisfactory, that I was very
anxious, if possible, to duplicate the homeward
stretch of it as far as Nan, then descend the Pitsanulok
Forli to the Meaam, and so follow my family to Bang-
kok. But would it be safe to leave my wife to make
the river trip without me, when she was in such weak
condition, and burdened with the care of four chil-
dren, the youngest of whom was but two years old?
I embarked and travelled with them as far as the land-
ing for Lampun — where we must separate, if I were
to cross over to Nan— still uncertain as to what I
ought to do. It was then Friday. We decided to stop
there over Sunday, and see hew matters looked on
Monday morninp:. The quiet and rest of the boat were
improving her condition somewhat; and her own
bravery made up whatever was lacking there. I had
secured a strong letter from the Prince, calling for
the best of steersmen through the rapids, and for
protection where the boat should stop for the night.
So, with some anxiety, but with strong faith that the
plan in itself so desirable would prosper, we separated
— one party {joinff by boat down the MA I'ing, and the
other going afoot across country to Lampfln. For the
presoit we leave the wife and children, to hear their
report when we meet again.
100
THE FIRST FURLOUGH 161
My plan was to rely on getting elephants from point
to point. Elephants are always very hard to get; ao
it seemed doubtful whether my confidence were faith
or presumption. But I was remarkably favoured. At
Lampfin there was not an elephant nearer than the
forests, save two of the governor's own. T had trusted
to his friendship, and it did not faii me. I got off
in fine style next morning on the governor's two ele-
phants, with a letter to all the goyemors on the route
directing them to see that I was supplied with what-
ever I needed on the journey.
I felt strong in having with me, in the person of
Nan Inta, so wise a teacher and such a living witness
of the power of the Gospel. On our first visits it has
asnally seemed wise to spend much of the time in vis-
iting and making known the Gospel privately to those
of reputation, as we know one wise missionary did
in old times. It is necessary to give the rulers a clear
idea of the non-political natnre of our work. In order
to do this, we must show positively what our message
is— not merely that we are religious teachers, but that,
as such, we have a message different from all others,
not antagonistic or hostile to them, but supplementing
rather that which they offer.
In visiting among the princely families in the old
city of Lakawn we met one most interesting case. It
was that of an aged bedridden Princess high in rank,
who received the Gospel with all readiness of mind.
By nature, habit, and grace she had been very religious.
She bad in her day built temples and rest-houses, had
feasted Buddhist monks, and had fasted times with-
out number, in order to lay up a store of merit for the
great future. She hoped sometimes that she had
laid up a sufficient store; but the Are and the eight
162 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
commands were against her. She had killed animals;
and the command is explicit, and condemns without a
saviour. That the Creator of all had made these
creatures ior our use and benefit was a new idea. That
of itself would remove much of the burden on her con-
science. And as one after another of the great truths
of revelation was opened up to her, particularly the
doctrine of the incarnation and atonement of our di-
vine-human Redeemer, it seemed as if the burden was
lifted. Nan Inta was himself a living testimony that the
Christian teaching can and does give instantaneous
relief when simply believed. It is difficult to tell
which was more touchir<^, the sympathetic earnestness
of the speaker, or the comfort it imparted to the
hearer. The Princess begged us to come again and
often. And neither of us found any other place so
attractive.
After a week spent in Lakawn, we departed on our
way to Nan. The next Sunday we spent in the forest
I look back with delightful memories to the occa-
sional Sabbaths thus spent in the deep forest after a
busy week with no rest and no privacy— a Sabbath
in solitude, away from every noise, and even every
song except the music of the wind and the song of
birds! We always had service with our men; and
then, under the shade of some cool spreading tree, or
beside a flowing brook, one could be alone and yet not
alone. No one more needs such retirement than a
missionary, whose work is always a giving-out, with
fewer external aids for resupply than others have.
The next Sunday we spent in Wieng Sa, the first
of the numerous little outlying towns of Nan. On
Monday we reached Nfin itself, the limit of our tour in
that direction. The country was wdl governed, the
THE FIRST FURLOUGH 163
princes intelligent, and the common people friendly.
Hut the special attraction that Niln had for me largely
centred around one man, the I'rince's nephew, Chao
Borirak — ^the one that rode astride the young elephant
to see us safe to Pro on our earlier trip, with whom
we used to talk religion about the camp-fire , till the
small hours of the morning. We left him then ap-
paroitly on the border land of Christianity, with
strong hope that he soon would be ready to profess
publicly the faith v.hich he was almost ready to con-
fess to us. His rank and connection would make him
of great assistance in opening a station in Nan, which,
next to Chiengmai, was the most important province
in the Lao region. Again he offered us a warm wel-
come, giving up his time to visiting with ns the rulers
and the monasteries, in one of which his son had long
been an abbot. It seemed as if Nan Inta's experience
would be all that was needed to settle his faith. At
his request I asked and received permission '•om the
Prince for him again to accompany us — with his young
elephant foal and her mother — five days' journey to
Tft It, where I was to take boat. Our walks by duy
and our talks by night are never to be forgotten. But
the convenient season to make a public profession never
came. He lived in hope of seeing a station in Nan, but
died not long before the station was established.
At Ta It no boat was to be had either for sale or
for hire. But my face was turned toward home, and I
would have gone on a raft. I had to do the next thing
— to take a small dugout which the Prince got for
me. and go on to TItaradit, the next town below. There
I was able to purchase a boat, which I afterwards sold
in Bim^ok for what it cost me. Nftn Inta was the
steersman, and my four men rowed. Our longest stop
m
it
«:
I •
f
't I -f
164 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
was at PitsannlSk, where the Siamese mission now
has a station. On reaching Bangkok I was delighted
to find that my family had made their long trip down
the other river in safety, though not without great
anxiety, and some threatened danger. Our oldest
daughter had been quite ill on the w. y. Once they
came perilously near falling a prey to a band of
robbers. It was only by a clever mse of the captain
that they escaped. As soon as he caught sight of the
suspicious-looKing group of men on a sand-bar ahead,
he had the gong loudly sounder! That and the wav-
ing American flag evidently made them think that this
was the leading boat of some prince's flotilla. They
incontinently fled into the forest. At the next stop-
ping-place our boatmen learned that it was, indeed,
a marauding band that had committed many depreda-
tions on passing boats. Wh;. a merciful preservation !
We spent a few weeks in Bangkok, resting and vis-
iting in the home of my father-in-law, Dr. Bradley, of
sainted memory. It proved to be the last time that
we ever saw him. He lived only a few months after
that.
In fifteen years the world had moved. Going round
" the Cape," even in a good clipper ship like the David
Brown, had become too slow. We took, instead, the
steamship Patroclus from Singapore to London, via
the Suea Canal. The Rev. Mr. Keyesberry, a mis-
sionary friend of Dr. Bradley's, had been waiting to find
an escort to England for two young sens and a
daughter. We gladly undertook that service, and so
had a flock of seven young folks to look after !
We were barely under way when our own children
broke out with the measles. The disease, fortunately,
proved to be of a mild type, and our new chains were
THE FIRST FURLOUGH 165
not hard to ruannge. So, on the whole, we got along
very well. In London we had unexpected trouble be-
cause the friend who was to meet Alice Keyesberry
at the dock failed to appear, and, strangely enough, we
had received no memorandum of her destination. It
cost us two days' search to discover her friends at the
Walthamstow Mission School.
The boys I had promised to convoy as far as Edin-
burgh. So, leaving my family in London, I had the
great pleasure of a visit to the beautiful Scotch cap-
ital. The day spent there was to me a memorable
one. It was, however, a matter of great regret that,
being so near tlte Highlands, t could not also visit the
original home of my ancestors.
We arrived in New YoA on Jaly 11th, 1873, after
an absence of fifteen years. Under any circumstances
fifteen years would work great changes. But that
particular fifteen had included the Civil War. The
changes in the South were heart-rending.
Though North Carolina was drawn late into the
Confederacy, it is said that she furnished a larger
number per capita of soldiers and had a larger num-
ber of casualties than any other state in the South.
The havoc among my old schoolmates and pupils, and
among my flock, was distressing, many places, too,
the sectional feeling was still bitter. The wisest of
the people, however, were becoming fully reconciled
to the results of the war. The largest slaveholder in
my own section assured me that the freeing of his
slaves had been a boon to him, and that he was clear-
ing more from hi.s old farm under free labour than
he ha"^ done before with slaves.
Unfortunately in the churches the feeling was more
bitter. My old associate, Dr. Mattoon, had accepted
166 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the presidency of Biddle Institute at Charlotte-^iow
Biddle University (colored). For a time he was very
coldly received except by such broad minded men as
his oid Princeton classmate, and my friend, Dr. Charles
Phillips. By virtne, however, of his noble Christian
character and his conservative bearing, Dr. Mattoon
overcame these prejudices, and lived to be welcomed
in the largest churches in the state. I f nt most
of my furlon^i in North Carolina; and /nally I
received a welcome almost as warm as if .ere a mis-
sionary of the Houthern Board. Returned missionaries
were not numerous then. It was not an uncommon
thing for me to lecture in churches which had never
before f n the face of a foreign missionary.
Soon after our arrival in the United States news
came of the resignation of Dr. Vrooman; and my first
duty was to find a si'ccessur. For myself, and even for
my family, I could endure to return without one. But
I could not face the distressing api)eals from the sick
whose ailments I was powerless to relieve. In my vis-
its among friends in North (Uirolina T met a young
medical graduate, Dr. M. A. Cheek, who received from
warm friends of the mission flattering recommenda-
tions for the place. He himself was pleased with the
opening, and would willingly accept it, if he could first
take a graduate course in surgery. This was easily
arranged, and he was ready to return with us the fol-
lowing summer.
The hardest thing to face was the parting with our
children. But the bitterness of this pang was soft-
ened by the kindness of friends which opened the best
of Christian homes and schools to receive them. We
can never sufficiently express our gratitude for the
kindness shown us in this matter by the late Mrs. E.
THE FIRST FURLOUGH 167
N. Grant and Miss Mitchell of tbe StatesTille Female
College, and to Mrs. McNeill, the widow of my old
pastor.
These two great questions settled, we left North
Cr -olina in March, 1874— my wife with the two
younger children, to visit friends and relatives in the
North; and I, as 1 hoiKid, to visit the churches and the
seminaries in search of recruits. But a cold con-
tracted on the trip north ran into a dangerons attack
of pleuro pneuinunia, followed by a slow recovery. Thus
I missed my visits to the seminaries and the meeting
of the General Assembly in 8t. Louis.
The return to the field was by way of San Fran-
cisco, and we reached Bangliolj on August 27th, 1874.
On November 14th a son was given us to take tht
place of the children left behind. In December be-
gan our river journey to Chiengmai. The river was
low, and we were a month and a day from Banglioli
to Rahtog. There we found four missionaries of the
Nova Scotia Baptist Board seeicing to establish a sta-
tion amoug the Ivarens of Slam. Hut they found their
Tillages too small and too widely scattered to justify
the p. II.. •! -^nt of a station. So they were return-
ing * On Saturday night we ail dined to-
gether, ^ l iid a sociable hour. On Sunday evening
we drew up our boats side by side, and had a prayer-
meeting that we shall long remember. There was
something delightful in thus meeting and enjoying
Chrisiian fellowship on a sand-bar, and then passing
on to our respective fields of work. Some of these
men afterwards went to India, and started the Telega
mission, which has had phenomenal success.
There were still the rapids and four more weeks
of travel before we could reach onr LAo home. Bat
168 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the Loiiit' couiing at last was delightfnl. Our faithfal
old coolie, Lung In, with his wife, met us in a Kiiiah
boat three da.vs' journey below Ch-engmai, with fruit
and f»>wl8 le«t we should be iu waut. Then the tall
figure of Nan Inta, with his face like a benediction!
It was February 7th, 187'), when at last we drew
lip abmgsid.' our own landing plare, and felt the warm
handshalie of old friends. Aiuoug the lAo at last!—
and no place that we had seen would we exchange
for our I fio home. For the first time since our ar-
rival in 1807 we had a permanent house to enter !
XV
IfUANQ KEN AND CHIENQ DAO
R. CUEEK'8 arrival was a matter of great re-
joicing. He was very young— only twenty-
one, in fact, (in the day lie sailed from San
Francisco. The (rvinK drudpory that fie and others
of our early medical inissionaries had to s?ndure, ia now
in great measnre obviated throagb the help of native
assistants. The remainder of the year 1876 I de-
voted ^ery largely to assisting in the meilical work, in-
terpreting, helping in operations, and earing for the
Bouls of the numerous patients, without feeling the
weight of resrionsibility for their jihysical condition,
as I had done before. Dr. Cbeeic came out a single
man ; bnt, lilte others before him, he lost his heart on
the way. Toward the end of that year he went down
to Bangkok, and was married to Miss Sarah A. Brad-
ley. He returned to Cbiengmai just as Mr. Wilson was
ready to start for the United States on his second
furlough. The April communion was postponed a
week that the newly-arrived and the departing mission-
aries might commnne together before separating. It
was Mrs. Wilson's last commnnion with us.
In May, 1870, Nan Inta was ordained our first ruling
elder. The story has often been told that before bis
ordination the Confession of Faith was given him to
read carefully, since he would be asked whether he
subscribed to its doctrines. When he bad finished the
in
170 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
reading, li« remarked that he saw nothlnp |k< nliar in
itH teachings. It was vor; nnicli like what he had read
in Paul's EpiHtles! In Jauuury V& Kaiuun, the widow
of Nol Bonyo. was baptised. It was thus appmpri
ately given to lici- to Im» tlip tliHt woiimn received into
tlie comrimniou of the church. Two of her daughters,
and I'a Tenj,'. the wife of Nfln Inta, noon followed.
Lung In was elected the first <!eii« ..n. hm was too mod
est to be ordained to that ofVicf. Meanwhile lie was
becoming a most useful asslHtant in the hospital.
Strange as it may seem, the office of hospital nurse Is
one of the most ditficult to get a Lao to till. Lung
In, however, was not a!»nvo the most menial service for
the sick. His real Huccessor was not found until the
present Incumbent, Dr. K«o, was trained. Dr. Mc-
Kean's testimony is that it would be scarcely more
ditlicnlt to procure a good surgeon than to fill Kdo's
place as nurse and assistant among the hospital pa-
tients.
During the summer of 187<!. in company with NOn
Inta, I made a tour an»ong the lour nearest provinces
to the north and west. The governor of Mflang K6n
had long given promise of beccmiing a Christian, and
now invited me t<» visit his people. On his frecjuent
visits to Chiengmai on business, he always called on
me, and no subject was so interesting to him as the
subject of religion. Before the proclasiiatitm of tol-
eration, while the common people were still afraid of
making a public profession of Christianity, our most
effective work was probably that with the higher class
of officials, who st«od iu somewhat less fear of the
known antagonism of the Chao Uparat. They were,
besides, a more interesting class than the common
people, for they were better educated, were more ac-
HUANQ K^N AND CHIENO DAO 171
customed in their daily datiee to weigh ai-gnnients and
decide on qneHtionH of pvidonco, nnd many of them liad
been trained in he religiouH order.
This Rovernor of Mfiang Kta had learned enongh of
thi' ivnois of CliriHtianity to hoconie nnaettled nnd dip-
satiKtled with the proHpectH of utlvation offered by a
purely ethical reiigion. He saw the weakness of the
foundation on which he had been taught to rely, and
the ditrerencc l)otw( n tlio authors of tlie two religion.s.
Ko he stood on the border land between the twu, at
the very gate, wishing to enter in, but with many ob-
stacles in his way, and strong opposing inflnoiees to
overcome.
My first objective, then, on this tour was Mtlang Kta.
The governor had aslied me to come and smooth tin
way for him by toachiog his under-offlcials and his
townsmen. N In Inta was the living, concrete argu-
ment, and he put his whole heart into it. We had a
few days of deeply interesting work. Few, however,
saw the matter as the governor did. Most of them
" would consider it." 8ome would go further and say
that they worshipped Jesns under the name of th^
promised Buddha Metraya. yet to come.
From Mfiang K«^n we went to Chleng Dut when,
we vi8?ted the great cave with its famous Cuddbist
shrine. Ever since Nfln Inta becar"» a Chrir-ian, be
had been anxions to test the truv >f some f the
legends connected with the place — a thing he dared
not do before. The cave is the abode of the great
Lawa spirit, for fear of offending whom Prince
Kawilorot was afraid to allow us to build to the north
of the city bridge in Chiengmai. Ohicng Duo moun-
tain, which rises above the cave, is twven thousand
one hundred and sixty feet high— one of the highest
172 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
peaks in all S?iam, and visible from Chiengmai, some
thirty-seven miles away. One of the sources of the Mfi
Ping River, twenty feet wide and knee-deep, flows
bodily out from the cave. Since uo animal is allowed
to be killed in so sacred a place, the stream abounds
in a great variety of beautiful fish waiting for the
food which no visitor fails to give them. The scramble
for it is as interesting to watch as the perfonnance of
the sea lions at San Francisco.
The legend is that no one can cross the stream in-
side the cave and return alive; and that beyond the
stream, under the crest of the mountain, there is an
image of pure gold seven cubits high. One enters the
cave at a little distance from the stream, and finds
first a grand chamber which is a veritable temple, with
ar bed dome, natural pulpit, and innumerable images
of Buddha, large and small. This place is regarded
as a most sacred shrine. Buddhist monks are always
there performing their devotions. The chamber is so
dark that thev have to use tapers to see to read. The
dim light and the long-drawn tones of the worshippers
prodnce a very weird impression."
From the temple-cb amber narrow passages lead otf
in different directions, till there is danger of losing
one's way in the labyrinth. I followed NSn Inta and
his sons to the stream, which is reached at some
distance farther on. Being neither tall nor a swim-
mer, I stopped and sauntered about in the various
rooms, waiting for my companions to verify or to dis-
prove the lej;. rid. Needless to say, both parts of it
were i)rcved myths. My companions did return alive;
and no golden image was found. The cave is too
damp to make it safe for one to remain long in those
distant pawages. Farther on the tapers burned but
IftANO KfiN AND CHIENG DAO 173
very dimly; and one would not choose to be left there
in pitch darkness. We could understand very welJ
how the legend arose of Yaks that devour those that
intrude into their dark caverns. There is no doubt
of the presence of a deadly gas much more to be
feared than the spirit of the great Lawa king, which
is believed to have taken up his abode there. We all
exiwrienced more or less of the symptoms premoni-
tory of malarial attack, and before we got back to tlie
town Nan Inta was shaking with a genuine chill. A
heroic dose, however, of Warburg's tincture with
quinine soon set him to rights. In this case, then, as
in many others, there is a foundation of truth at the
bottom of the legend.
That night we had a great audience. It was gen-
erally known that we intended to explore the cave, and
many, no doubt, came to see how we had fared. It
was well that N9n Inta had so far recovered from his
morning's chill as to be ready to join in bearing testi-
mony not only to the falsity of the legend, but also
to the truth of the Gosi^el. It was a bright moonlight
night, and the people listened till very late, while we
gang hymns, preached the Gospel, and pointed them
to the better way. The result was seen years after
in the founding of a church there.
All these provinces that we were now visiting, and
others more distant still, were originally settled by
refugees driven from the more southern districts by the
persecution for witchcraft. Now they are important
provinces. Since these people had been ruthlessly
driven forth because of the spirits, I thought they
would willingly accept any way of escape from their
control. But they seemed, if anything, more super-
Btttions and harder to reach than others. Having suf-
174 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
fered once, as they supposed, from the malicious power
of the spirits, tliey seemed even riore than others
to dread to incur their anger again by deserting them.
But there were many hopeful exceptions.
Mftang Vrio was the next city visited. From the in-
cidents of our stay there I select the cases of two
persons who excited our deepest sympathy. One was
an aged Buddhist monk, a Nglo, who, with a younger
companion, visited our tent daily. The monk was
a venerable man, with striking features, serene coun-
teuance, earnest and intelligent. His long life had
^een spent in worship, meditation, and study. All
this he soon told us with some quite natural pride.
While not bold, he was not reticent, freely stating his
own doctrines, hopes, and fears, and asking ours. To
the question what were his hopes for a future life, he
frankly said, "I don't know. How can I? I have
tried to keep the conunandments, have performed my
devotions, have counted my beads. But whether I
shall Ro up or down [indicating the directions with his
finger] I do not know. I have, done what my books
tell me, but I have no light here [pointing to his heart].
Can the teacher's religion give me any light?"
The earnestness and the desjtondency of the man
drew me to him. I asked, what of his failures and
transgressions? " That," he said, " is the dark point.
My books say that all my good deeds shall be re-
warded, but the failures and transgressions must be
punished before I can reach Nirvana, the final
emancipation of the soul by the extinction of all de-
sire." " How long will that lie? " we ask. He an-
swered by giving a number that would baffle even
astronomers, who are accustomed to deal in almost
fabulous numbers.
MUANd KftN AND CIIIENG DAO
173
" IJut is not thai virtually endless? "
"Yes; but what shall we do? That is what our
books say."
"But is there no room for pardon?"
" No. Buddha only points out the way that he fol-
lowed himself. Be reached the goal by the same al-
most endless joui-nev. How shall we hope to do so
by any shorter i !• different route? "
" But supposing there is a way — that there is a great
sovereign of the univei'se, before all Buddhas and
higher than all Buddhas, wlio has the riglit and the
authority to grant full pardon through his own in-
finite merit, and his vicarious assumption of all our
obligations and paymoit of all our debts. Would not
that be a joyful message?"
" Yes; if true, it would be."
And so we ai^ued till light seemed to gleam for once
intf his mind. But the image of the dear old man
pointing up and then down with the sad confession, " I
know not whither I shall go," is a vision that has sad-
dened me many a time since.
The other case of s[)ecial interest I state as it oc-
curred, with no attempt at explanation of the dream
involved in the story. — On the morning after our ar-
rival, Nan Inta and I started out to visit monasteries or
houses, wherever we might find listeners. I was
dressed in white clothes, and Nun Inta had on a white
jacket. We had made a number of calls, and were
about to pass by a house in which we saw only an
elderly woman and some children, presumably her
grandchildren. We were surprised to see her come
down from her house and run out after us, and
jircstrating herself with the customary salutation given
to priests and princes, she begged us to stop and come
176 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
in. We accepted her invitation, tliough surprised at
her evident demonstrations of joy. Sitting down on
the mat, we began to explain that we were teachers
of religion, pointing ont the sure way of happiness
both in this life and in the life to come. Our mes-
sage was one from the great God and Creator to all
races and nations, inviting them to return from all
other refuges, and He would give them an inheritance
as His children in the life to come. She listened with
marked interest as we explained to her our religion,
and urged her to accept it. We were surprised at the
explanation she gave of her intense interest.
Not long before our arrival she had a dream that
two men dressed in white came to her to teach her.
What they were to teach her she did not +now; but
when she saw us walking up the street she said, " There
is the fultiluient of my dream! " She had watched ua
as we entered other houses, fearful lest we should omit
hers. Now she was so glud we had come. It was at
least a strange coincidence, for she affirmed that the
dream was before she had ever heard of us. Whatever
may have been the cause, it was a delist to instruct
one who seeimd lo receive all that we said as a direct
messaf^e to lier. This at once attracted Nan luta to
her, and she listened to him with frequent exclama-
tions of delight, while he, in his earnest manner, ex-
plained the Gospel niessa«io of pardon and life eternal
through Him who liveth and was dead, and behold He
is alive for evermore. She said her one great desire
had been to escape from the punishment of her sins;
but she never before had known that there was any
other way but to sulfer for them herself. She, too,
was a Ngio. We visited her frequently during the
week of our stay 'n Miiang Pao, and to the last she
M&ANO KEN AND CHIENG DAO
177
interpreted our roming as the fulfilment of her dream.
This was the last that we knew either of her or of the
aged monk. Before we visited the place again she was
dead, and he had moved away.
In those days when the people were afraid to make
a public profession of Christianity, it would have been
a great gain to the mission if we could have had
schools, and used them as a means of evangelizing the
youth. A first attempt, indeed, had been made by Mr.
Wilson with a few Burmese boys. A young Burmese
who had been trained in Maulmein, and who spoke
English, was employed to teach ihem under Mr. Wil
son's oversight, in the hope that Lao boys would pres-
ently join them. This hope was not realized, and the
experiment was presently abandoned.
The first call for a Christian school was for the
education of girls. In the first Christian families girls
predominated. Mrs. McGilvary collected six or eight
Christian girls, and devoted as much time to them
as her strength and her family duties would permit.
They were really private pupils, living on our premises
and in our family. More wished to come than she
could do justice to. Hence about this time an appeal
was made for two single ladies to devote their who^e
time to the school. But it was not till four years
later that Miss Edna E. Cole and Miss Mary Oump
bell of the Oxford Female Seminary, 01 ' >, reached
Chiengmai. Very soon they had twenty pupils. From
this small beginning has grown our large Girls' School.
Two of Mrs. McGilvary 's pupils were soon made as-
sistants. These and others of the first group became
fine women, who have left their mark on the church
and the country.
Notwithstanding onr disappointment in the delay
178 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
of the school for boys, it proved a wise arrangement
that the Girls' School was started first. A mission
church is sure to be greatl.v handicapped whose young
men must either remain single— which they will Tiot do
— or be compelled to talce ignorant non Christian wives.
Such are a dead weight to the husband, aLd tlie chil
dren almost surely follow the mother. After mar-
riage, the almost universal custom of the country has
been that the husband lives with the wife's family.
He becomes identified with it, and for the time a sub-
ordinate member of it, almost to the extent of becom-
ing weaned from his own family. Where all the at-
mosphere of the family is stnmfily Buddhist, with
daily offerings to the spirits and gala days at the tem-
ple, the current would be too strong for a father, with
his secondary place in the family, to withstand. For a
while it was feared that Christian girls would have
diflQculty in finding husbands. liut, on the contrary,
our educated girls become not only more intelligent,
but more attractive in manners, dress, and character;
and, therefore, have been much sought after. The
homes become Christian homes, and the children are
reared in a Christian atmosphere. The result is that,
instead of the .vifes dragging the husband down, she
generally raises the husband up; and, as a general
rule, the children early become Christians.
In August, 187 our beloved Princess became very
seriously ill. Dr. \:heck iiad l)een called upon to
treat domestics in the family, but not the Prince or
Princess. Hearing that she was in a critical condi-
tion under native doctors, and fearing the worst, I
took the liiiert.v of suggesting that they consult Dr.
Cheek. They seemed pleased with the suggestion, and
a^ed me to accompany him — ^which I did for one or
mOaNG KfiN AND CHIENG DAO 179
two visits. His treatment was very successful, and
Boon sho was convalcsront.
About this same time we iiad an adventure with
white ants which came ziear costing w our much-
valued cabinet or}j;an. It will serve to illustrate an
experience formerly common enough, and still not un-
known. One Wednesday evening before prayer-meet-
ing Mrs. McGilvary sat down at the instrument to look
over the (mii's, when she found it full of white ants.
Our house was built on higher ground, into which the
creatures are driven when the lower grounds are filled
with water from the annual floods. They do not at-
tack the teak walls an'^ fhtors of our houses, but,
climbing up the posts, at last they stumbled upon the
soft wood and leather inside the organ, and were jnst
beginning their feast when our meeting broke in upon
them. Hr.d we not discovered them then, the instru-
ment would have been completely wrecked before
morning.
Once the white ants «'estroyed a tr"nkful of our
children's clothes, once a box of " knock down " chairs,
and once they attacked my library — evid«itly not at
all deterred by the learned discussions and doep
thought of Dr. -loseph A. Alexander's Commentary m
Inaiah. They had got through the margin, and would
soon have digested the rest, had not an unexpected
occasion for opening the library saved it.
XVI
SEEKERS AFTER GOD
N New Year's Day, 1877, I went into the city to
make some calls. The first was at the new
palace. In the large reception hall I found
the Princess, virtually alone. She was embroidering
some fancy pillow-ends for the priests— a work in
which she was an expert. Her maidens, some distance
off, were sewing priests' robes. The Prince was in his
little workshop not far off, turning ivory rounds for
the railing of an elephant howdah, a favourite amuse-
ment with him.
The subject of religion was one that continually came
up in all my interviews with the Princess ; but hitherto
she had apparently argued more for victory than from
a desire to reach the truth. She was as keen as a
lawyer to seize a point, and her quick wit made her a
very enjoyable ant''fi;onist. Not only she and her
domestics, but the whole country as well, had been
preparing for a great occasion of merit-making in con-
nection with the approaching dedication of a shrine.
Whether the peculiar interest of this conversation was
due to the fact that these matters had been running
in her mind, or to some particular mood in which I
found her, I never knew. Slost likely it was both. A
chance allusion to the great event which was in every
one's mouth, at once brought up the question. Stop-
ping her work and resting her arms on the embroidery
180
SEEKERS AFTER (JOD
181
framp, fiho asked, Why i'* it that f.>roi<;nera do not
worship the Huddha or his images, and do not believe
that merit is made thereby? "
She seemed to approach the question as a personal
one for herself. If we were right and she were wrong,
she would like to know it. We agreed on that point,
and I encouraged her in her estimate of its paramount
importance to every rational man or woman. If
Buddhism does, indeed, lead to happiness in a future
life, sLe was wise in diligently following its precepts ;
bnt if wrong, it would be a fatal mistake. Why do we
not worship Buddha? Because he was only a man.
We reverence his character, as we do that of other
upright men who baye tried to do good and to lead
their fellow-men to better tbinj^p. Gautama Buddha
seems to have sought with all his soul for light— was
willing to forsake a kingdom and to roionnce all
sensual and even intellectual pleasures in this life for
the hope of escaping sin and its consequences in the
next.
Why do we worship Jehovah- Jesus? Because He is
our sovereign Lord. The Buddha groaned under his
own load of guilt, and was oppressed by the sad and
universal consequences of sin among men. The Christ
challenged His enemies to convince Him of sin, and His
enemies to this day have confessed that they find no
sin in Him. Buddhists oelieve that Buddha reached
Nirvana after having himself passed through every
form of being in the universe— having been in turn
every animal in the seas, on the earth, and in the air.
He did this by an inexorable law that he and every
other being is subject to, and cannot evade. Our Je-
hovah-Jesu.s. as our Scriptures teach, is the only self-
existent being in the universe, and Himself the cause
182 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TUK L\0
of all (»lliiT boinRS. An iiitiiiilc S|»irit iitid invisible, ll«
nianitVskMl Himself to (lie wuild by Uesceudiug Irom
boaveu, becoiiilutj man, taking on our nature in unl-
MOD with His own holy nature, but with n«) taint of sin.
He tli<l tliis DUt of iulinite love and pity for onr race
after it bad siuueii. lie saw llieie was uo otber able
to save, and He became our Saviour.
And talce the li adiinss of llie two Hyslems— wbicb
is tlie more credible? The sii' iiil books tif the I'rincess
teacb tbat tliere is no (Jreator. l^verytbing, as the
SiameHc say, " pen Png " — comes to be of itself. All
this complieate«' universe iM-caiiie wbat it is by a for-
tnitous eoneurr iitr of atoms, wbicb atoms themselves
liad uo creator. We come as honest seekers for troth.
We look around, above, beneath. i:verytbing seems to
imply ( ontrivanee of mind. The sun rises and sets
with greater regularity than i)ur clocks strike the hour
of noon. The seasons follow each other with wonderful
uniformity. Animals are born and die. plants and
tri-es prow and deeay, each after iis kind, and in won-
derful adjustment to the conditions about them. The
eye is made for seeing, the ear for hearing, and the
air for ')reatbin<?. Lifjht is nee isary for work by day,
and darkness for sleep by nigbi. This city has it.s walls
and gates; this palace has its beams, its roof, its doors
and windows, and its ditYeitnt apartments, because it
was so planned. The Princess gives her orders, and
her servants in distant villages come at her summons.
The Prince's command is obeyed throughout all his
dominions. Subjects oliey because they are under con-
stituted authority. Even so we obey Jehovah and not
Huddba, because we believe that He is the Creator and
the sovereign Lord of the universe.
In His word— His letter to our race— He claims
BEEKERB AFTEB GOD 183
to be Creator nn<l Lord. We rend His word, and
then we look uronnd for evidence as to w'letlier this !a
"eally 80. We tind that evidence in eartli and xea
and Bky. A > ' tter comes from the King of Biam. How
do we know that it i,s really his? It has his seal.
Not otherwise ' the heavens declare the glorj ot' God,
and the firmament showeth His handiwork." By faith,
then, w^e believe that the worlds were made, m Ilis word
tells lis. We read (he account of that creation. What
wonderful heiugs we are I — made iu His image, endowed
in oar degrees with His own attributes, and with
authority over the world in which He has placed us.
lie iiaci given us dominion over all the leasts of the
earth, the fowls of the air, and the tish of the sea.
Every time that a Buddhist kills a fish or a fowl, he
fiins, because he breaks a command of his religion.
Why not so for a Christian? Because these creatures
were madn for man's use, and were given to him. We
partake with gratitude of the jrifts our Father has pro-
vided for us. This one great truth, when received by
Christians, relieves the conscience of one of the great-
est burdens that the followers of Bnddha most bear.
But if Ood made man in His imape, why all this
suffering that we see and feel? The best explanation
ever given is that given in the Bible. Man was created
holy, and was put fin triiil. lie transgressed. A sub-
ject who disobeys the law of his sovereign ;neurs his
displeasure. He sutlers for it. We are suffering from
this disobedience of onr first parents by a law that we
dai'y see exemplified. A tnan by ext'-avagance or vice
squanders his estate. His children are born penniless.
The Prince of Wicng Chan rebelled against the King
of Siam. His country was conqnered and laid waste,
and thousands of its inhabitaats were ma^ captivQ
ISI AM»»N(J THE HIAMEBE AND THE LAO
and (Icpoilt'd. ThouHimdH of the di'McenduntH of theie
captifei are now iwrfii. Why are they »o? RecatiM
of the em)rH or iDiHfortiiiU's nf their nnccstnrs. Tlio
Prim-e appointM a governor over a province, with tlie
promiHC that If he is faithful, bin children shall snc-
ceed him. Becaase of misiioniciinor he is deposed.
TTiR deKceinliintH are liorn itubjecta and not rulers. We
belong to a fulien race.
Boniana nautaraa belonged to the same race. He
groaned under its pains and penult ies. He saw a race
8un1< in niiserv. He saw Its religion shamefully cor-
rupt. He inaiigiirated one of purer morality. But he
does not profess to be divine or a Haviour. His religion
does not olTer a siiffieient remedy. Hy asretii-ism and
Belf mortification it would cxtinguiBh all noble dewire as
well as the vicious instincts with which we are bom.
And then, after interminable eyries of transmigrations,
we may hope to reach a state of unconscious sleep.
Happiness and misery are inseparable things. We
escape the one only by escaping the other. That is the
dark jncspoot which makes P.nddhism so pessimistic.
To this the l'rin< es8 assented, *' That is so."
ow compare this with the religion of Jesus. The
reign Father who loves His wanderinR, sinful chil-
dr .1, in His infinite wisdom devised a plan that satis-
lies their needs and desires, " (lod so loved the world
that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever
iKjIievcth in Him ; li« 'uld not perish, but have everlasting
life." (^ur Maker l)ecame our Redeemer by emptying
Himself of His glory and beconiiug man. He is Himself
the greatest possible illustration of the love of God to
the race. lie came t" reveal the Father. His holy life
we have in His word. He set us the only perfect ex-
ample, full of pity toward the miserable and the sinful.
SEEKEB8 AFTEB QOD 18S
Then, bj a painfal an»l Rbameful donth, He liw aine
IlimHPlf n sncriflcc for the Nins of tlif» world. He
obeyed the law wliith we had brukeu, and which con-
demiw as; and inffered in oar stead the penalty doe
to UH. ITc coiKHU'rcd death. FTe took awiiy the HiUm <»'
death by taking away Hiu. lie aroHe fruiu the dead,
sbowing Himself for many days. He aHi-ended to
heaven before tlu* ) v<>s of HiH disriples. Ha has sent
His servants and His word to offer a fuU and frw
pardon to all wiio will accept, lie ih now, and ever
will be, oar intercessor in heaven. He sends His Bpirit
to purify and fit n.s for an endless state of conscions
existence which begins at death, and not cycles after.
Millions of the best men and women the world has
ever seen have given their testimony to the reality of
thiH salvation by a (riiinipliant death, with the assur-
ance that all sin and all i«utreriug were paut. JesuH
removed the corse, and brought to light the immortality
which we had forfeited by sin. The missionary and his
associates have left both parents and children that
they might offer this to the Princess and to her
people.
To all of this the Princess was mainly a most in-
terested listener. She had asked to Ikj taught. She
pat no captions questions. I have omitted an occa-
sional assent tlinf she fxave, and an .tccaHional difficulty
or donht — not all of which could be fully answered; as,
for example, why an all-powerful God allowed the en-
trance of sin, and now allows wicked spirits to tempt
lis; or that itlier '-ad (piestion, why the Gospel had not
Iteen sent to them, so that they might have known this
from childhood — a question the burden of which should
press on my readers as well as on the missionary.
At last, after a long pause, the Princess made a won-
186 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
derful confession, the very words of which I can never
forget :
" Ta cbak wa dui kwara cliing, ka hau wa paw kru
ko tuk 16o." To speak the truth, I see that the father-
teacher is right. " Ka chua wa kong chak mi Tra Cliao
Ion dai sang lok." I behove there surely must be some
divine Lord who made the world. " bat ni ko chfla
ti paw kru atibai diii kSn pon tot doi Pra Yesu." And
nov,- I iK'lieve what tlie father teacher lias explained
about escape from punishment through the Lord Jesus.
And then, sadly— almost despairingly— she added, " T6
chak yia cha dai?" But what shall I do?— I fear it
will not l)e well to forsake " bit paw hoi me"— the cus-
toms of my father, the foot-prints of my mother.
We were sitting in the new brick palace— the first
ever built in the country. In the hall was a large
pier-glass with numerous other foreign articles, most
of them bought in Bangkok, and brought up for oflfer-
ings at the coming dedication of the shrine. I asked,
Princess, did your father or grandfather have a brick
palace like this?" Somewhat surprised at the ques-
tion, she replied, "No." "And I see the Princess
riding down to the landing every day in a foreign car
ritige. Did your ancestors do that ? " Before I could
make the application, she blu.shed, perceiving that she
was caught. I went on: "You do daily forsake old
customs, and adojit new ones which your ancestors
never kr ; w. Tlie whole method of government is
changing. This foreign cloth, which your maidens are
sewing for priests' robes, was all unknown to your
f(jrefi\thers. Tlu se things all come from lands where
the people worship neither the Buddha uor the spirits.
These are only some of the fruits that grow on the tree.
Better still, plant the tree; for all good fruit grows on
SEEKERS AFTER GOD 187
it." Just then our long conversation was interrupted
by (he entrance of the Prince, wlio had worked till
he was tired. He asked what «Ul- and the teacher were
talking about so long. She replied that we were dis-
cussing " bun Ic h~\\) " — merit and sin.
The <iuestiou ollcu caiue up after this. She was in a
position where it was, humanly speaking, almost im-
possible for her outwardly to forsake the customs of
the country. I'nt I Iiave reason to know tlint on that
morning she received truths which she never forgot.
We have seen before that neither she nor her husband
approved of her father's act in murdering the Chris-
tians. Slie continued a warm friend to the last, and
so did the I'rince.
On my way home that same forenoon I had another
interesting talk with our dear old friend, the abbot of
the Umong monastery, who had been so true to us dur-
ing onr troubles. On the gate-posts, as I entered, were
offerings of fruit, rice, betel, etc., to i)ropitiate the
spirits. This is in Hat violation of cue of the funda-
mental precepts of Buddhism, which declares that any
one who makes offerings to spirits is outside of the pale,
or, as we should say, is virtually e.xcomniunicato. Of
course, my abbot friend exculpated himself from all
complicity in the offerings. He himself neither wor-
shipped nor feared the spirits. But his disciples and
parisliioncrs did, and hn could not withstand them.
He, too, never gave up the form of Buddhism, but he
claimed that he worshipped Jesus daily as the great
Creator and licuefactor of our race. His merit lie be-
lieved to intinitcly p:rea(er than tliat of Buddha,
whom he knew to be a man. The abbot was a man
of broad mind, and a tiue and faithful friend. It is
well that it is not for as to say how much of error
188 AMONG Tin: SIAMESE AND THE LAO
is consistt'iit witli true disciideship, evou in Christian
lands. I know that his deep-rooted friendship for ua
was because we were teachers of a religion that otlered
hopes which Buddhism does not ^ivc. I liave in mind
many others, also, who believed uur doctrine, tliougii
they were never enrolled in our church ; and not a few
that would urge others of theii- family and friends to
lalvo, as rhiisliaus, the open stand wliidi, from various
causes, \hty themselves were pre'euted from tailing.
But the Lord knoweth them that are His.
The great event uf tlie year 1S77 was the dedication
of a Hu lliist sliriue recently u built on Doi Sutcp, the
noble mountain which is the pride and glory of
Cbiengmai. From the level of the plain, and at a
distance of but four miles westward from the city, the
mountain rises in a single sweep four thousand five hun-
dred feet, forest-crowned to its very summit, seamed
with rushing hrook^-. and embroidered with gleaming
waterfalls. In tlie r. i ny season the play of cloud and
vapor, of sunshine ami storm about its mighty mass,
forms an ever-changing picture of surpassing beauty
and grandeur. The Siamese and the Lao are very fond
of an imposinj; setting and a commanding view for
their temples and shrines — on bold promontories by
sea or river, on high knolls and summits. Tlie one on
Doi Sutcp crowns a project ii.'j,' Nlioulder or bastiim of
the mountain, some half way up, ;ind visible from all
parts of the Chiengmai plain. Each reigning Prince
has been desirous of doing something to beautify and
enrich this shriiu'. To rebuild it was. M.erefore, an
attractive idea to Prince Intauou at t u- bc^rinning of
his rule.
To do lumour to (be (Kcasiou, ant! lo make merit
thereby, all the northern states, as far east as Luang
SEEKERS AFTER GOD 189
Prabang, sent their highest ofiScials with costly offer-
iiij?s; aud tlio government of Siain sent a special rep-
resentative. For weeks and months previously the
whole conntry had been placed under requisition to
make pioparations. Offerings were levied from every
town, villaj^e, and monasters, and, I believe, from every
household, liatli guest of honour had a temporary
house built for him at tu? foot of the mountain, with
smaller slielkrs for persons of less rank. Nearly all
the princes and nobles of Chiengmai joined tlie en-
campment at the base of the mountain, and thither,
also, was the city market removed, so that our house-
keepers had to send four miles to market !
I had intended to pitch a tent near the encamp-
ment, so as to be near the people for missionary woii;.
But a rheumatic attack during the opening days of the
festival prevented. Still, we had as many visitors at
home as we could attend to, and under conditions more
favourable for missionary work.
Such occasions aie very attractive to the Lao peo-
ple. For the time being the prohibition against
gambling is removed, and they make the most of it.
It may seem a queer way of making merit, but the
theory is that their merit earns them the risrht to a
good time for once. Thousands of rupees change
hands on such occasions. The mornings are given to
making offerings, the afternoons to boxing and games,
and the nights to theatricals and gambling. I was
glad that I was prevented from pitching my tent in
the midst of the noise and revelry. All those inter-
ested in religion wcro the more free to call and con-
verse with us apart from the princes and the rabble.
OlBcers and monks from a distance were always espe-
cially welcomed, and few of them in those days re-
m AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tarned to their homes witboat calling on the foreign
teacher.
I did not get off on a long tour that season, being
unable to secure an elephant. It was better so, how-
ever, for early in May Dr. Choek wont to IJangkok to
consult a plijsician, and went on thence as far as
Hongkong. It was April 30th of the next year before
he got back to (Jhionfjinai. And the season jiroved )o
he one of tlie most unhealtiiy in the history of the
mission. Worst of all, we had only six bottles of
quinine to begin the season with. There was a rush
for the quinine, and it scciiumI cruel to withhold it so
long as any was left. The fever was of a violent
type, and often fatal. Native doctors were helpless be-
fore the scourge. On looking about me for a sub-
stitute for quinine, 1 found that arsenic was the next
best remedy, and that Fowler's Solution was the best
form for administering it. But we had not a drop of
the solution. We had. however, a bottle of arsenious
acid, and a United States Dispensatory, so that I had
to become pharmacist as well as doctor. I had all the
ingredients save one, an unessential colouring matter.
So 1 made it up by the quart. l?ut it was not a medi-
cine to be trusted in native bands. They were accus-
tomed to take their own medicine by the potful, and
had the theory that if a little is good, a great deal
would be better.
XVII
THE RESIDENT COMMISSIONER
IN this same year, 1877, tliere occurred an event of
utmost importance to the mission and to the
whole conntry. We have Been that, up to the
death of Prince Kawilnrot. Ihnse Lfio provinces which
are now a part of Siam had been virtually free states.
The Siamese yoke had been very easy. They had never
been conquered in war. Their original association
with Siam had been a vohmtary one, in order to
escape the oppressive rule of Burma. Their location
and their weakness made it a necessity that they should
look to one of these rival kingdoms for protection
:i<jainst the other. At the same time, they added both
dignity and strength to the one on which they leaned
—they served it as a buffer against the other. Nature
had connected the Lao country more intimately with
Siam. All its communication with the sea was
through the Mtoam Chao Praya and its tributaries,
while a range of lofty mountains separated it from
I'.urma. In race and language too, they were Siamese,
and not Burmese.
The relation had been mutually beneficial. Both
parties recognized the advantages of the arrangement,
and were satistied. The balance of real advantage had
been to the weaker states. Their chiefs, indeed, were
required to make triennial visits to the Siamese cap-
ital, to present there a nominal tribute, and to renew
their oath of allegiance. But with this exception they
191
192 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
were virtually free. In his own coontry the Prince
had absolute nilo. The Siamose had never iuteileifl
with, or nssuiiicd control of, the internal affairs of the
North Lao s^tates. It will be remembered that the
sanction of the Siamese government to the establish-
inent of t!ie inissiim was given only after the Lilo
Prince had j^iven his.
It was i>ro!>al)!y an inevitable result that the stronger
power slionld in tiiiK' -ibsorb llie weaker. And the
course of events iiad iK'en teiidinf? that wa.v. The for-
ests of teak on the uiiper bram hes of the Menani were
too valuable to be concealed or to remain profitless.
The world needed tlie timber, and was willinji to pay
for it. The country needed its value in money. The
Burmese of Maulmein, who were British subjects, had
Bkill in working out the timber, which the Lao had
not. With money and valuable presents they tempted
the Lfio rulers, who formerly had absolute authority
over the forests, to grant them concessions to cut the
timber and market it in Bangkok. Both parties were
avaricious, and both were probably crooked. Larger
bribes sonietiines induced a Lao 'uler to issue a sec-
ond concession to work a forest already assigned to
an earlier applicant. The result was a constant suc-
cession of lawsuits brought by British subjects against
the Lao. Since the L5o states were dependencies of
Slam, the Siamese governuK'nt was often called upon
to enforce judgment against them: wiiile tlie Lfio felt
that the Siamese suzerainty ought to shield them from
such attack. Slam was now come to be in fact the
buffer between the Lfio and the outside world. In-
stead of the pleasant relations which had hitherto ex-
isted between the two peoples, there was now constant
friction.
THE RESIDENT COMMISSIONER
193
Up to the tiuie when Prince KawilSrot gave bis pub-
lic and official promise before the United States Consul
nnd the rei)iesenfative of the Siamese government, in
the little sfila at the landingstage of Wat Chfing in
Bangkok, no foreign power other than the English had
had any claim on the Lao or any contact with them.
It was only the impolitic ad of killing the Christians
which brought the Lao Prince into conllict with the
representative of the United States government. The
fact that it was the missionaries who were immediately
concerned had nothing to do with the question. Had
the agreement been made with American citizens in
any other capacity or business, the obligation would
have luvn t!ie same. The Siamese government recog-
nized the obligation, and, as we have seen, guaranteed
the continuance of the mission. And that gaarantee
was an additional reason for having an official repre-
itivo of Siam resident in Chiengmai.
J the new Prince been as strong as he was mild
biiv. good, and had the Thao Uiiarat been like him, it
is possible that the old feudal relation might have con-
tinued another generation or two. No doubt the
Siamese government thoroughly trusted the loyalty
of the now P'ince; but it did not regard him as a man
sufficiently stmng to hold the reins of power at that
juncture. Moreover, all the business of ruling was
largely given over to the UparSt ; and he in a number
of ways had slinwn his opposition to our work and his
jealousy of the English and of foreigners generally.
When news reached us first that a High Commissioner
was appointed, and then that he was on the way, there
was great anxiety to know what stand he would take
with reference to Christianity.
PrayS Tep Worachun proved to be an admirable
194 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
selection for ('omniissidiu r. He \v,u\ innn.v <>f tlio qnal
ides of a sfiitoKiiiiin. He was cool, culm, patient, and
wise. .1 mining from the result, it in evident that his
inntnictionH were: to be consorvative; to make no raKh
or prciiiatiirc move; and to iiplmld tiio ro.vai atiUiority
coujo;uti.v witit (lie old princely rule— pca(i'alil.v. if
possible, bat flrndy— till Hiam could asHUine complete
control. .Mi-anwiiilf lie waK to follow the i:n}ilish plan
of pov(>rniiiu: i1ii«mi;;Ii the native rulers, lie was will-
ing to hide his time. ICvery new assumptitm of power
on the part of Biam was reluctantly yielded hy the Lslo.
But everytlunp conspired to favour the pulii s of Siam.
Tlie Lao Prime was passive and unamhilious. For
the Uparat no one felt the reverence or the fear that
all had felt for the late Prince Kawilorot. The Com-
missioner's fiiinicss and business intejirity enabled
him to maintain himself perfectly in his dillit ult posi-
tion between the two branches of the Tal race, and
amid the contliclinfj interests of the time.
In relifiion the new Commissioner was a stoic. His
boast was that he needed no other religion than to
be loyal to his king, and upright and just in his deal-
ings with men. Virtue was its own reward, nnd vice
was its own punishment. lie acceitted Cibbou s con-
clusion tLat all religions are alike good for the state,
alike true for their adherents. :nul alike false for the
philosopher. He encoura-ed Christianity because it
taught a good morality and made good citizens. But
he could see neither the possibility nor the necessity of
an atonement for sin. On one point I shimld say we
were in full accord. In his opposition to the spirit-
worship of the Lao he was almost rabid. He sym-
athized deeply with the poor people accused of witch-
craft, who were driven out of the country.
Tin: REHFDKN'T COM M ISSinNi;u 105
Durinj? the abseucc of Dr. ("heck aud .Mr. Wilson
with their familirfi, 1 should have been utterly unable
to cope with the situation, had it not been for my wife's
clear busineM talent and tiut in planning. The lit-
tle girls, too, had begun to .sliow sonu'what of their
mother's aptitude for work.
Meanwhile the fever Hniui},'o otntinuiMl !(• si.irii<l and
Jnci-eas.' ill violcnci'. TIii' progress of the disease was
so rapid tiiat often the person attacked would never
rally at all. An interesting example of the way in
wliidi •■"iilinfi of llic Imd.v soiuotinu's ojioniMl tlip way
to the healing of the soul, is st-en in the case of Sen
Kam, an oflBcer who was in charge of all the irrigation
works on the Doi Kaket plain, and wh<t one day was
hnmsiht to n)y fjatc, as it was supposed, to die. The
new medicine quickly checked his fever, and presently
he began to study in Siamese the Shorter Catechism,
Genesis, and the r.osiiel of .loKn. In due time he
returned home a believer. I ut Ms desertion from
Buddhism caused such opposition i. his province that
his baptism was delayed. His family were so shaken
that some of them wished to return to the old worship.
But one young grand daughter of twelve or thirteen
years had begun to read our books and to attmd our
services. She refused to return to the nxmastery, and
would run away from it to the chai>el. She per-
severed until she brought back the whole family into
the Christian fold.
fn further illustration of the crowded experiences
of this time, 1 may cite the following items from let-
ters to our children, writtoi during the latter half of
the year 1877.
" Last week the King sont f(ir your father to treat a
prince who bad iuid the fever for Hfteen days. During his
196 AMONG THE BIAME8E AND THE LAO
paroxysms his i n. s cotihl be heard throughout the whole
n( i^'lihoiirlio(..l. Ill tliiir extremity they •ent for your
fatlicr, ami pave up tl-.o case to him with penniuion to
rciiiovt' all spirit-charnis .luring the trmtment. He it now
out of dangfr." [Mhs. McU.J
" For three weeks I have had n yminp prince in hospital
who hail attempteil siiieide hy cutting his throat. lie was a
fearful sight. It did not f^ivm possible that he could survive
the night. I sewed up the wound, howeTcr, and now he i«
well, and apparently penitent." |D. McO.]
" We are well as usual, hut eiiprossed in work. Your
father is pressed beyond measure with the work of two men.
On the return of Dr. CMieek".-. boats, we reoeited forty
ounces < f (piiiiinc; but it is poiup at a fearful rate. The
hospital is full of patients, iuid there are at least ouo
hundred more to be prescribed for tlaily. If I did not drop
ererything else and help him, he could not possibly get
through the day's work." [Mas. McQ.]
" Soon the quinine was all gone, and our compound was
becoming a veritable lazaretto. Most of the patients wore
anemic and dropsical from long-standing fever. They
came, because to remain at homo was to die. Then a new
complication arose. Unusual syniptotns began to occur that
I could not account for. One morning at breakfast we
were called to sec a little girl who had a hemorrhage. She
had no cough and had no consumption. While I was look-
ing up the symptoms ami cause, your mother discovered
that the bleed • was from the gums. That gave us the
clue. It was ccurvy. I found that we had at least thirty
others whose g. ins were similarly diseased. We began at
once to give them lime-juice, and prescribed vegetnbles, for
the lack of which they were starving. It is the iiiyariahle
custom of Lao doctors in cases of fever to put the patient on
a strict diet of boiled rice and dried fish. On such diet
some of our patients had been living for two or three months.
They might as well have beeu ou an. arctic voyage ! "
[D. McQ.]
Tin: i{i:sii)i:nt <;()MM.'<sionkr 1!>7
" Day bc'fori' yo.-tonlay \vc trioil to havi^ a |)icni(?. A
prtnccflg had promised us two elephnnts, but only "Hf came.
Your father took a horse. The throe children and 1 rode
the elephant. Our destination wai the Doi 8ut8p temple.
About half the way up the numntaiii tlie elephant either eon-
c-luded that there was no fun in guinj,' up ulone, or, more
probably, that he had an unrouifortalile load, and refused
to go any further. He turned out of the road, and tried
to throw till' drirer fnnii lii-» noek. The ehildren became
alarmed, and we dismnnnteil a-* best we eoidd. The oliil-
dren refused to try riding him nguin; aud since we had
come largely for their pleasure, we had our lunch by •
brook, and (etamfld home on foot" [Mbs. MoO.]
"We had an interesting incident at our De<»mber cwn-
munion. Just as I liad aiinnuneed tlie eotnnninion hymn,
I saw Chao Borirak— the Nan pritieo, who had twice ac-
companied me with his e!ei)hant on my journeys, and for
whoso sake largely one of my trips to Nan had been taken —
enter the room. As he had been the subject of much
special |)rayer on our part, I could hardly command my
voice suihciently to proceed with the hymn. On my return
from my furlough he had written that he would visit me at
the first opportunity. His uncle, the Prince of Nan, had
n prandson in danprer of losinp his sight from an aceident.
He huil iHTsiiiuk'd tiie l\[<ux- I'uiL i>-)^.--itily our me<licine
might help him. lie brought a few presents from the
Prince, and for himnelf had brought a fdd ring with a
native pearl from the Nun river. He is veiy anxious thp.t I
should move to Nan. but I tell him that he must wait for
you. . . . Witli fever and death around us we have been
wonderfully preserred from ' the pestilence that walketh in
darkness, and the destruction that wasteth at noonday.'
We have had our anxieties about the children. During the
last hot season we were afraid that little Margaret would
inelt away, she was so thin." [D. HoQ.]
Itut the labours of the year were not in vain. Dur-
ing its progress NUn Suwan, who afterwards became
198 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the founder of the church iu Cbieug Son, and four
others who became iutlueutial ruliug elders, were bap-
tized. And with these was Pa Kawug, an aged slave
of the Prince, who lived to be one of the LSo saints.
xvni
TvirciicifArT
N January Gth, 1878, two native converts were
received into the church— Nan RT Wichai, the
V_--^ (Ijjp scholar who had been Tr. Chrek's teacher,
and the wife of a Iciuling elder— and with them our
own daughter Cornelia. This was the bright begin-
ning of the year that brought in religious toleration.
One day in March, as 1 was sittinp; in my study, I
was surprised to see a tall man, a stranger, with the
bearing of an officer, enter. He pointed with both
fingers to his ears, and asked if the teacher could say
"Ephphatha," and open the cars of a deaf man as
Jesus did. It was a strange introduction— to be ac-
costed by a Lao with a quotation from Scripture in
the ancient Arama>an tongue! I judged by his accent
that he was from Lakawn. In answer to my eiiquiry
as to who he was, I learned that he was a PrayS. the
highest rank among LSo oflBcials ; that he had formerly
been first in the Lakawn court, but was not then in
office. But where had he received a Bible, and wb'^
had taught him?
I learned that some twenty years before this he had
accompanied his Prince to Bangkok, and there had met
Dr. Bradley, from whom he received a copy of the Old
Testament History in Siamese, and the New Testa-
ment so far as it was then published. He had learned
Siamese in order to be able to read and understand the
199
200 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
contents of these books. He often wished that he had
lived in tiie time of Christ. I!ut, liaviufj no one to
guide him, he bad not learned to draw the lessons that
the Bible story was designed to teach.
He had come to ("liieugiiiai to get the assistance of
the jii'inces there in ri^iitiug an tinjiisl decision of
the Laiiawu court against hini. lie had heard, too,
that there were teachers of a new religion; and he
wished to know whetiier we lauglil as did Dr. Hradley
and tiie books i-t'ceiveti from him. His jiosilion, bis
manners, bis whole histor.v, including his connection
with my father-in-law, attracted me to him with un-
common force. Our first interview was long and very
satisfactory. Uis questions were such as he had long
wished to put to some one who could explain them.
The truth had been securely lodged in his mind. It
was most interesting to see how a single new thought
would illuminate it ail.
But what he bad sown be w >.s then reaping. While
in power he doubtless had oppres.sed others. Once he
had received "hush money" from murderers whom be
should have prosecuted. If he bad not taken it, he
said they would have murdered him, too. His sins
wciglied upon bis conscience. His most anxious ques-
tion was whether Jesus could really save all men from
all sins. When asked if Buddha could do so, he
said that be never had seen any such promise in any
of the scripture'-.. Fie would search again. He went
to an abbot friend from whom he borrowed, as he said,
" books by the armful." He looked them over with
this one (juestion in view: Is there hope of pardon of-
fered to sinners? lie went a second time for more.
At his third coming the abbot, finding out what he was
aftf"-, refused to lend to him further. But he con-
wrrciicHAFT
201
fessed that hi.s search was in vain. He argued with
the monks, refuted them ; and they cast him off. Upon
his arrival the Chao Uparat had promised his assist-
ance in the lawsuit. When, however, he found that
the I'raya was becomiUi, a Christian, he dropped him.
But he had found an intercessor greater than any
earthly prince. For niui he was willing to face all
opposition and to bear all reproach.
He was baptized on the 8th of May, just before re-
turning home. The rains had already set in, and were
likely greatly (o impede his journey. Yet he reached
Lakawn without encountering a shower. His account
of it afterwards was, that whenever he saw the clouds
threatening, he would wave his hands and pray that
they nii«jht be dispersed. Lao Christians have not be-
come befogged Avith doubts as to the eflQcacy of prayer
for temporal blessings. After his return to his home,
his family al! became believers, and others also whom
he taught. At his invitation 1 went over to instruct
them and to administer the sacraments. Two years
later the numb'" was sutlicient to warrant their or-
ganization into a church, of which the Praya was made
the lirst elder.
Dr. Cheek's return at the end of April, 1878, took
from my shoulders the care of the medical work— a
very great burden. During his ab.sence I had put up
a hospital building of six rooms. This since then has
been moved, and now forms the nucleus of the Chieng-
mai nos](ital. The doctor soon found himself over-
whelmed with practice. He was a fine surgeon and a
good doctor, and had great influence both with princes
and with people. Moreover, ]Mrs. Cheek's inheritance
of the language— like my wife's— was a great ad-
vantage to them both. Only a few days after the doc-
202 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tor's arrival we lost our valuiilile hospital assistant,
Luntj In. One cvcTiiiij,' lie ((iiiiidaiuotl of sidiio trouble
about the heart. He talked a ie uiouieuts with his
family, then said he felt better and would go to sleep —
and in an instant was gone.
lu 1878 Chieng St'u, tlie old abandoned city which I
visited in 1872, became the theme of anxious consult a
tion on tlie \Ki\i of t\w j,'nvi'rnincnt. Tlie Lfio had
taken away the inhabitants, but iH)uld not take away
the land. It had become a rendezvous for robbers
and lawless men from all quarters. Tlie Western
Shans from lUirnia were settiins upon it. Siani evi-
dently must repopulate the province, or lose it. It was
finally agreed that one thousand descendants of the
original captives should be drafted from Chiengmai,
one thousand from Lakawn, and tive hundred from
Lampun, and sent Itack to reotiuiiy the i»rovince. Chao
Noi Inta, the highest in rank of the available descend
ants of the original captive primes, was oonimissioned
as governor. The special interest this exodus has for
our narrative lies in the fact that among these re-
turned captives was the family of Nan Suwan, one of
our best men, and already an elder of the church. At
first Nun Suwan thought of buying himself off, as
many did. But when it was pointed out to him that
his going would be the means of starting a church
there, he readily consented to go.
The governor was a warm friend of mine, and was
urgent that we establish a mission and a church there
before Buddhist temples could be built. The province
was virgin soil. A great mortality usually attends the
repeopliug of deserted places and the clearing of the
land. The governor was very anxious that we should
WITCUCKAFT 203
send a physician. Had we gone then witli five hun-
dred ounces of quinine, we should have had couuuaud
of the Bituation. As it was, Nan Suwan was furnished
with some quinine, which gave him the name of doctor.
Hniad-niinded, hospitahle, kindly, and thoroughly np-
right, there could have been no l)etter selection. He
hecame the real father of the Chieng S6n church. His
f;iiiiily was a lijiht in the cit.v. Ilis youngest d;uigliter,
Kui Keo, one of .Mrs. MctJilvary's liist pupiLs, taught
most of the early Christians there to read the Scrip-
tures in Siamese. The elder himself became a great
favourite with the governor, who used fo say that the
tact of his being giivernor, and, theitifore, under author-
ity, alone prevented him from uniting with the church.
Auother of the returning (•ai)tives was Si'n Yfi Wichai,
the first believer in Chiengmai. He settled on the
western border of the Chieng Sen plain.
The Lao as a race have been in bondage to the spirits.
We have already had frequent occasion to refer to the
slavish fear of them among all classes, from the highest
to the lowest. No ev* i in life, from birth to the last
offices for the dead, could be undertaken without con-
sulting or appeasing the presiding spirits of the clan,
the household, or the country. Their anger is the fruit-
ful cause of every disease and calamity that tiesh is
heir to.
In many ways this would seem a less elevating and
ennobling cult than pure Buddhism. lint really it
has a much closer atfinity with Christianity than has
Buddhism, whether as scientilically held by the learned,
or as embraced by the common people. Buddhism is
too atheistic to biiiig it into coniparisou here with
Christianity. It lacks the essential attribute of re-
204 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
ligion — a sense of dependence on gome higher power.
It belongs to a ditl'eiviit order of Ihoiiglit. Tlic spirit
cult, on the oilier hand, does reio<,'uizt' invisible powers
whose good-will or ill-will brings prosperity or ad-
versity. Prom this to one Great Spirit, who is sover
eifiii over all, is 1ml aiiotlier step on the same Hue of
asci'Ul. So their spirit oUeriugs eome nearer the idea
of propitiation than do the offerings of baddhism,
which in some quite unuecouutable manner are sup-
posed to bring merit to the otVerer.
A belief in wlteheraft— that is, iu tlie temporary
or permanent residence of some evil spirit in men —
has been contlued to no one age or race. Its i)redom-
inance among the uortberu Tai tri'ues is very i-emark-
able in view of its inconsistency with Buddhism, which
has long been the religion of the race. In the contest
for supremaoy, the spirit cnlt, while it has not super-
seded Buddhism, has secured the stronger hold on
the people. They worship Buddha and make offerings
in his temples ; but they fear and dread the power of
the pirlts to intliet present evil. It is safer to neglect
Buddha than these. And the power of a malicious
spirit is most dreaded when it has taken up its abode
iu a human habitation.
From the time of our tirst arrival iu Chienguiai we
were continually amazed to find what multitudes of
l)eople had been driven from their homes for supiwsed
witchcraft. .Ml tlie northern jtrovinces and towns, as
has already been mentioned, were largely peopled by
that unfortunate class. Accusation of witchcraft had
become one of the most dreaded means of oppression
and i»erspcution. it v/as a favourite way of getting
rid of an envied rival or of a disagreeable neighbour.
No family and no rank were safe from such attack.
WITCHCRAFT
205
Princes, eren, had fallen nnder Its ban. When once
the suspit inn of \vii< lM Tiiit wiis well i^tarted, the in-
(iividiial or the family was doomed. Our sympnthies
had often been aroused in belialf of these unfortunates ;
bat no favonrable opportunity bad occnrred for inter-
ferwice in any othor wa^ than by onr teaching.
Finally, in August, 1S7S, the opportunity came. I
had a request from a prince of some wealth and stand-
ing, that I would take under onr protection PS 8tog
Tiun and her family, accused of witchcraft. The
woman was lir.st the under-wife of the Prince's de-
ceased father, who was a man of note in his day. She
had two fine boys by a subsontient husband, and a niece
nearly grown. This second husband was a widower,
whose former wife was suspected of dealing in the
occnlt art; and the theory was that the evil spirit
camo into hor family through these sons. In that
season of heavy rains and flooded streams, the whole
family was to be driven off — some of them surely to die
on the way. The patron said that be was helpless;
that no one in the land, unless it were ourselves, could
shield them from that fate. I told him that we were
perfectly willing to risk the anger of the spirits, only
we did not wish unnecessarily to offend the prejudices
of the people. lie wa .villing to assume all legal re-
sponsibility; for the rest, we might fight it out with
the spirits as we pleased. After notifying the Siamese
Commissioner of the situation, we brought the family
to our place.
That very day their honse was burned down; and
not a tree or bush was left standing on the premisM
to furnish shelter to the spirits. Rut that did not stop
the clamour. There was then in their village a great
epidemic of fever. By common consent it was agreed
206 AMONG THE 81AMESE AND THE LAO
that this luul li»'(>n raiiscd by the evil spirit resident in
the lads. Willi Imyish curinsity they liiid twico or
thrice gone buck to viHit tlie hite t)f their old homo, and,
strange to say, after each visit a new case of sickness
had occurred, which was, of course. attril)uled to their
presence. It was vain to point out the utter ridicu-
lousness of the idea, or to show that no sickness had
occurred on our place wince their arrival. That was
easily explained. The spirit v as afraid of our tJod,
and did not dare to enter the premises, it took refuge
in a large tree outside till the boys came out again,
when it entered its former habitation and went with
them.
Finally the patron prince sent word that we must
give that family up. He could endure the odium no
longer. When I refused, he threatened to take the
matter into cour To this I replied that I was per-
fectly willing thu. ihe case be tried; but it should not
be tried before a Lfto court, but before the Commis-
si(mer. If they could convince him that the sickness
in the village was caused by a malicious spirit resi-
dent in that family, ♦hey should be sent ott immedi-
ately. But, I addef' t would Ite fair to make one con-
dition. If the accusers failed, they should be driven
off. This— as I knew it would do— put an end to the
whole affair. We heard no more of it. It was a gr^t
victory in the dem.tu controver.'^y ; and, later, as we
shall see, it proved a boon to scores of helpless vic-
tims. Before the arrival of the Commissioner such
an outcome would have been impossible. No Lao
court would have refused to expel persons so accused.
The family of Pa S^ng Bun proved to be a treasure,
becoming one of the most influential and valuable in
the Chiengmai church.
XIX
THE EDICT OP RELIGIOUS TOLERATION
"^UR narrative has now brought us to a point
where an apparently trivial circumstance be-
^^--^ caiiu' lln' occasion of an ovcnt not only of ut
most iniportuuce to us and to our \vt)rk, but of far-
reaching consequences to the country at large. Some-
time near the middle of this year. ISTs, the eldest
daughter of Nan Inta was to be married to a Christian
young man studying for the ministry. IJoth parties
at that time were virtually members of onr family.
The expected bride was a pujiil of Mrs. McGilvary's,
and the groom was a private pupil of mine. The im-
mediate family connections on both sides were Chris-
tians. Inasmuch as this was the first Christian mar-
riage in the cliurrh, we had [trepared to celebrate it
with a little wedding feast. Besides the Christians, a
few princes and a few special friends were invited, all
anxious to see a Christian marriage ceremony. Among
thr invited guests was Chao Tepawong, Kan Inta's
liege-lord, and brother of the Uparat.
We learned that the family patriarch — known to be
a violent ojiposer of Christianity — had threatened to
prevent the marriage, unless we tirst paid to him, as
tribal head of the family, the spirit fee originally de-
signed to furnish a feast for the spirits. It was a
small sum — ainong oommon people not more than six
rupees. That payment would legalize marriage with-
807
2U8 AMONd Tin: SlAMKSi: ANI» TIIK .AH
out iiiiv furiluT (t'lvmuiiv. In fiiii, I In- |i:i\iiu'nt may
be regarded a« u di.stiuttivel> religious uct, sime it
recognizes the spirits as the guardians and protectors
of tlie fauiily. VVIicu one Imtuiik's m ( 'hiisl iati, llial
allegiaiire in cast oil". lU an uuwritteu law or itiH-
tuui of the euuntr.v, tliat fee belonged to the patriarch,
and he decided to exact it or tualie trouble. I luul
('Xjilaiucd llii- iiiari iaiic i cn iiiiiiiv tn tin- |iriii( i's iiud to
the tJouiiiiissioner. 1 linew llial the latter rwogni/.ed
the justice of onr position, and I assumed that the
goverunieiit would support us if the patriarch cauMd
any troultle.
Sure enough, early ilt I lie morning the patriarch's
loud voice was heard in our yard threateniii.*; dire pun-
ishment to the family if his demand were not granted.
The bride's father became alarmed, and thought we
must have some official baikiug. or he would surely
get into trouble. The guests had arrived, and every
one was on the rirc to see wliicli side was to win
in the contest. I went to the liege lord of the family
for his sanction ; but he said it was too big a question
for liiiii I" pass npuii. I must go to a higlu r authority.
It liad evidently become a question that eould not be
settled that morning. Old Adam would have said,
" Marry them and trust to the justice of your cause.
Let the old patriarch whistlel" lUit we teach our
Christians to be obedient to the law, and we wi.shed to
avoid unnecessary trouble. So there was nothing to
do but to swallow our mortification, apologize to our
guests, invite them to partake of the feast, and seek
legal sanction afterwards.
After dinner that same day Dr. Cheek and I called
upon the Commissioner. t'e hn<l failed, and were
come to him for advice, llis sympathies were easily
Till: I'.hirT oi' i;i;Li(;i(>rs tolkk'ation jon
pqUkIchI, liiil lie IuhI no nuthorit.v to intcrfcrR in local
or tribal matters. He fldvlRcd nH to p^o to the Primv.
We dill BO, mectini; liiin iiiid tlio Priru <>sn ali ae. Tbeir
position \v!is like that of flic ( 'omrnissiorMT Tlipy.
too, K,vin|)atlii/.('(l with tlu- .yoiin;; couple ^ud with n».
But it raiited a new quetttion for them, anif they frm^d
ill <r!V(' oirciKc. The I'liricess sai<l h;i 'fm
criticised Uy our enemies for siandinj; hv us, !.* il" the
rhao Uparat would give hiH sanction, bo one else,
tiiey thought, would dare oppose. Ho v,c w«it next to
the Upnrilt ; hut there we r;iii atjn'ii t a hT. ije wai! He
inwardly laughed at our predicament, lie had us just
where he wanted us to he. If our young people could
not inarr.v. oiir work !il In- /iriuall.v slopped. Fie
said that no one hut tli.- Kiii^ of Siam had c ■.■•*y
to interfere in such a ipiesiion.
We returned home signally defeated. Next day I
went alone to the (*hao fparat. and arpied rhe justice
of our case. The parlies Ijad renounced their allegi-
ance to the spirits. It was clearly unreasonable to re-
quire what we could not conscientiously submit to. I
even he;;j?e<l him to come to our aid, since hoth the
Coinmi.ssioner and the Triuce had said that they were
sure that no one else would oppose his decision. If
we were coiujielled, we must iippi ;il to [lis Maj^ty the
King of Siani. tliouph we should he very reluctant to
do so. Since marriage is a civil as well as a religious
rite, I was sure His Majesty would admit the justice
of our app<'al. Either thinki' g; that we would not
make the appeal, or that the apjteal would be in vain,
he at last refused to diiieuss the question farther.
Little did he know. n<u- did we thea, that he was doing
the best possible tliiufj for us.
I returnetl then to the Commissioner to report. The
210 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
conflict which, as we have seen, was probably inevitable
between the royal anthority represented by the Com-
missioner on the one hand, and the local rulers on the
other, was becoming inevitable sooner than was an-
ticipated. The Commissioner just then was himself
having great trouble with ofiBcials who were restive
under his authority. The Lakawn Princes had a dif-
ficulty among themselves, and had come to the Com-
missioner to have the case adjudicated. His decision
had been unfavourable to one of the higher officials —
probably tlie chief liiiiiself. Whoever it was, he had
committed the unpardonable offence of departing to
Lakawn without taking leave of the Commissioner,
presumably intending to appeal to Bangkok. So Uiat
morning I found His Excellency indignant at the in-
sult offered to him, and, through him, to his sovereign.
The royal authority which he represented was chal-
lenged. Moreover, some of the acts of the Chao
Uparat had offended him. His imi»ressions were con-
firmed and strengthened by the recital of onr griev-
ances. He advised me to write the.se all out in full,
giving specifications that could be substantiated — and
such were rapidly multiplying. For, provoked at Nan
Iota and his family, and emboldened with his own suc-
cess in stopping tlie wedding, the Chao Fparfit had
summoned Nan luta and had set him to watching his
summer-house on the river — the work of a menial, such
as Nan Inta had never yet b',en reduced to doing.
At last tlie iiioriicnt had come when an appeal for
religious toleratitm mi<,at be made with fair pros-
pect of success. As the orly way of avoiding con-
tinual intcrferenie in the future, the Commissioner
himself advised that the appeal be made for religious
toleration in general, rather than for freedom of
THE EDICT OF RELIGIOUS TOLERATION 211
Christian marriage, which -as only a single item.
The Commissioner was busily engaged in writing out a
report of hie own grievances, to be sent to the King. He
said that he would mention our case also in his report,
and offered to forward my letter with his despatches.
I immediately dropped everything else, and ad-
dressed myself to writing that appeal unto Caesar. In
it I referred to the sanction of the Biamese government
to the establishment of the mission, given after the
interview with Prince Kawilorot at Wat Chfing, and
subsequently renewed on the appointment of his suc-
cessor, Prince Intanon. I was very careful not only
to exonerate the latter from all blame, but also highly
to commend both him and his Princess for their uni-
form kindness, and for their sympathy in this par-
ticular emergency. But the act of the Chao Uparut
was, no doubt, only the beginning of what he would do
if he were not restryined. It was evidently his inten-
tion to reduce to slavery a family that had always
been free. In behalf of his loyal Christian subjects
we begged His Majesty to guarantee to them the same
privileges, civil and religious, which his other subjects
enjoyed, among which surely was the right to be mar-
ried aroording to the corcniony of their own religion.
One request 1 put in with some misgiving — that the
Christians niight be exempted from compulsory work
on the Sabbath; otherwise that point might always be
used to create difficulty when the master was hostile.
While thus making our appeal to man, importunate
prayer was continually offered to Him who had been
our help in times past.
It was very necessary that the appeal should go as
the joint action of the mission as then constituted. I
was aware that Dr. Cheek, the only other member of
212 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the mlBsion then on the ground, did not enter heartily
into the appeal. H( was fearful tliat it would only
make bad worse; that it would give offence to the Lao
rulers, and possibly to the Siamese as well. But as re-
gards the Lfto, matters had already reached an extrem-
ity in the case of the one who really ruled the coun-
try. And as to the Siamese, our only human hope
was in the King. So, when my jjajter was finished, I
took it to Dr. Clieek, and read it over to hiju. He
listened very attentively to the i-eading. and at its
close I was delighted to hear hiui say, "That seems
all right." After a few clerical alterations which he
suggested, we both signed the paper. A summary of
it was read to the Commissioner, and was afterwards
enclosed by him with his despat< ''e . Our appeal
to the King of Siam had, of course, to be made through
the T'nited States Consul, ( olonel Siekels. Our letter
to the King was, therefore, rmt unsealed under cover to
the Consul, so that he might read it - and with it went
a letter giving him a full account of all the particulars
of the case, and urging him to ust his inlluence, both
personal and oflQcial, on our behalf. The whole was
entrusted to a special messenger in a swift boat, with
instructions to make all possible speed.
Having done our best, we waited prayerfully and
hopefully. Hut the greatness of the issue involved
made us anxious. The liberal policy of the young
King was not then so well known as it became later.
One oould not be absolutely certain how even our
Consul would regard it. We trusted, however, to the
friendship of the Foreign Minister, who had invited me
to I'echaburi. and who had always been our true
friend. No one of all these persons concerned disap-
pointed our expectations, or even our hopes.
THE EDICT OF RELIGIOUS TOLERATION 213
(Vdonel Sickols acted with commendable despatch.
He was favoured in securing an audience without the
usual formalities. At that time His Maj«itj had a reg-
ular day each weclv when liis subjects and others might
approach liim infoimallv in his summer garden with
petitions on urgent business. Our apijeal was pre-
sented to him there. He was already aware of its na-
ture througli tlie Commissioner's despatches. Anxiety
witli regard to the political situation in the North no
doubt prompted hira to a decisive assertion of author-
ity in this matter as well. His Majesy informed the
Consul that his government had already reached a
decision favourable to our request, and that full re-
ligious toleration was to be proclaimed.
The courier returned with unwonted s|)eed, re. h-
ing Chieugmai on Sunday, September 2J)th. Late in
the afternoon of that day the Commissioner notified
me of the arrival of despatches. Next morning I called
upon him. He was radiant with joy. All his own re-
quests had been granted, and enlarged powers had been
given him, including power to make proclamation of
religious toleration in all the Lfio states. He seemed
as much delighted with our success as with his own.
He said that he had already notitied the princes and
officials to call in the afternoon, and he would then
inform them of the result. Of coarse, our hearti were
overflowing with gratitude.
At the appointed hour the Prince, the Chao UparSt,
and all the high officials were assembled. When the
order for the proclamation was made known, some of
them made a final personal appeal to him to stay pro-
ceedings. They argued that unrestricted permission
to become Christians wonid be the ruin of the country.
To understand the force of this objection it must be
214 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
remembered that among the LJo, breach of the Ser-
enth Commandment was punished, not by civil op
criminal procedure, but bv a " spirit fine " paid to the
patriarch of the woman's family. It was argued that
if Christian young men should tranf^nf«w
girlB or women, under the new regime, no fine could be
imposed, and there would be no redress whatever. The
Commissioner then sent a messenger, asking me to
come to the audience. The scene, as I entered, re-
niinde<l me of that other notable audience with Prince
Kttv^ilorot and another Commissioner. The Commis-
sioner stated their objection, and asked me what I had
to say. I replied that the difficulty was purely an
imaginary one. In the first place, it was a cardinal
doctrine of the church to forbid such sins. In the
second place, if a professed Christian violated his vows,
he made himself amenable to the discipline of the
church, and so put himself beyond its protection. The
Commissioner said, " I have already so answered, bnt I
wanted those who are present to hear it from the
teacher himself." To this no reply was made. After
a short pause the Commissioner broke the silence.
With a gesture to the andience, he said that the busi-
ness was ended. When he had leisure, the Edict
would be issued. One after another the assembled
princes and officials retired.
On my way home I noticed that the Chao Uparit had
stopped at his little sala beside the ri -er, the same
that Nan Inta had been set to watch. To show that
I had no personal grudge, I stopjied to call on him.
Rising, he gave me a more respectful welcome than
usual, and ordered a foreign rug to he spread— the re-
spectful way of receiving guests before the day of
chairs. When I was seated he asked why I had made
THE EDICT OP RELIGIOUS TOLERATION 215
complaint against him to Bani^ok— he was very sore
at heart about it. I replied that 1 was sorry, indeed,
to be ohliged to do it. Did he not remember how I
had told him that we conld not snbmit to his decision;
how I had even entreated him not to force us to ap-
peal to the King? And I could not appeal without
giving the facts as my ground for so doiug. But now
I hoped that bygones might be bygones, and that we
might be friends— The fact was that my letter had
been translated in Bangkok, sent back to Chiengmai,
and had been read at the audience before my arrival.
But I nevor before had such a reception from the
Uparat.
The wording of the proclamation was left to the
Commissioner. If he had been hostile, or even indif-
ferent, its effect might easily have been neutralized
by a little vagueness or ambiguity. But he was
anxious to have the matter settled decisively. When
I took my leave of him that morning, he promised to
show me the draft of the proclamation before he sliould
affix his seal. When I saw it, there were only a few
verbal changes to suggest. It was a general permis-
sion to the Lfio to adopt any religion tliey pU iiscd. I
suggested that since it was specifically granted in (he
interest of Christians, it was desirable that Christi-
anity be specifically named— which was done. At my
request two extra copies of the proclamation were
made with the official seals attached; one for deposit
in our safe, and one that might be read to the people.
The following is a literal translation of this famous
document:
I Praya Tep Worachun, Representative of IH3 Majesty
the Supreme King of Siam in Chiengmai, Lampiin, and
Lakawn, hereby make prodsmation to the PrinceB, Rulers,
21fi AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
and Officers of various grades, and to the common peoiilu
in the cities and provinces named: — That His Majesty the
King of Siam has been graciously pleased to send me a
Royal Letter under the Koyal Seal, to the effect that D. E.
Sickels, Esqr., United States Consul, had communicated to
the Foreign Minister of Siam a complaint signed I'y Kev.
D. McGilvary and Dr. M. A. Cheek against certain parties
for molesting the Christians and compelling them to oh-
Berve their old religious customs. The Foreign Minister laid
the subject before His Majesty, who most graciously listened
to the said complaint, and gave the following Royal Com-
mand in reference to the same: —
That religious and ciTil duties do not come in conflict.
That whoever wishes to emhriice any religion after seeing
that it is true and proper to be embraced, is allowed to do
so without any restriction. That the responsibility for a
right or a wrong choice rests on the individual making the
choice. That there is nothing in the laws and customs of
Siam, nor in its foreign treaties, to throw any restriction on
the religious worship and ?-er\ iw of any one.
To be more specific: — If any person or persons wish to
embrace the Christian Religion, they are freely permitted
to follow their own choice.
This Proclamation is to certify that from this time
forth all persons are permitted to follow the dictates of their
own conscience in all matters of religious belief and practice.
It is moreover strictly enjoined on Princes and Rulers,
and on relatives and friends of those who wish to become
Christians, that they throw no obstacles in their way, and
that no one enforce any creed or work which their religion
forbids them to hold or to do — such as the worship and
feasting of demons, and working on the Sabbath day, except
in the case of war and other great unavoidable works, which,
however, must not be a mere pretence, but really important.
Be it further observed that they are to have free and unob-
structed observance of the Sabbath day. And no obstacle is
to be thrown in the way of American citizens employing such
persons as they may need, since such would be a breach of the
treaty between the two countries.
Whenerer this Proclamation is made known to the Princea
TlUu EDICT OF KKLIGIOUS TOLERATION 217
and Rulers iiml Oflieer.s aiiil Pooplc, tlioy are to beware and
violate no precept contained tliereiii.
Proclamation made on the Thirteenth Day of the Eleventh
waxing Moon, in the Eleventh Year of His Majesty's Reign,
October the Eighth, Eighteen Hundred and Seventy-Eight.
The Edict farnishes a second natural division in the
history of the Lfio mission. Its first period was one of
struggle f«)r its very existence, euhninating in positive
prohibition to preaeb the gospel and virtual expulsion of
the missionaries. That situation was abruptly brought
to an end by the death of Prince Kawildrot and the
appointment of his son-in-law, Princa Intanon. In
our second period of struggle, the conclusion of which
we have just witnessed, the conditions were in many
resy)ects similar to those of the first. Our chief an-
tagonists in the two contests were alike in their love
of absolute power, in their determination to break
down all rival influences, {^nd alike, therefore, in their
settled hostility to our work. In neither case was their
antagonism to Christianity primarily on religious
grounds. But KSwilOrot was of much more imposing
personality and figure than the Fparat.
Within his own realm Kawilorot was really " Lord
of Life." He was absolute head both of church and
of state. He brooked no rival and no contradiction in
either. The liifjliest positions in the religious hier-
archy were bestowed or withdrawn at his pleasure.
His own brothers-in-law languished in exile in Siam,
because it was not thought safe for them to return
and be within his reach. At home he had vanquished
or terrified into submission all possible rivals. Even
the court of Siam seemed inspired with a wholesome
fear of meddling with him. The crime of the first
Christians was the unpardonable one that they had
218 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LlO
dared to become such against the will of Kawilorot.
Hut the time and place for such rulers had passed.
Such attitude and temper suited oeitker a positioa
under saperior anthority, nor the policy of a govem-
mont striving to rise with the progress of the age.
Hut he served his purprae in the world, and Providence
used him.
Of bis titular succeggor, Prince Intanon, and of his
noMe wife, I have already spoken. His real successor
in the government of the land, and in his championship
of the old r^me of fendal autocracy, was the Chao
Uparut. liut he had neither the commanding dignity
of KiTwilorot nor his interesting personality; — had lit-
tle, in fact, of any of his qualities save his lodged and
settled hatred of all innovation. For him we had none
of a certain kind of re8{)ect which the late Prince in-
spired; and we were under no constraint of gratitude
fur favours. The only debt of gratitude the mission
owed him was for being, by bis lawless acts, the un-
witting and unwilling cause of the proclamation of re-
ligious freedom.
But the crisis which he precipitated hastened 'ike-
wi.se that centralization of government which Siam was
waiting for. The tendency of the age is everywhere
toward centralization. Strong central governments
are everywhere taking the place of weak and scattered
ones. Chieugiuai itself and all the existing Lao states
have grown by the capture and absorption of their
weaker, though by no means iusignilicant, neighbours.
The authority end fear of Siam had long been felt in-
directly in preventing those ])etty wars in which one
weak state captured and enslaved another. That
authority was now to be exerted more directly to bring
to an end the era of arbitrary, personal, antoeratic
THK EDICT OF UKLKJIOUS TOLERATION 219
rulo MiiioTiR its (IcjH'iKlcricios. .ind to ostiililisli in its
place the more equal and istable reigu of law. Feudal-
ism with its " organised anarchy " was to give way to
the Nation.
Such wiis tlu' period at which we have arrived in this
narrative of our life and work in the Lao states. It
is a wonderful thing to bare lived through such a
series of changes, and possibly to hsive boon, under
Providence, the mean.s of bringing some of them about.
We work for an end apparent to ourselves; but God's
designs are deeper and broader than ours. " He
maketh the wrath of nian to praise Ilim." Of nations,
as well as of individuals, is it true that
" There's a diTinity that shapes our ends.
Bough-hew them how we will."
Among the Christians the Edict, of course, was
greeted with an outburst of joy. To Nan Inta it was
like life from the dead. It was in reality freedom from
slavery. And no man made such efficient use of it as
he did. With the sealed copy of the Edict in his hand,
he returned to his village; and wherever he went he
could assure the people, on the faith of his Sovereign,
that a profession of the " Jesus-religion " meant neither
the rulltian's club nor slavery. The effects of the Edict
upon the church will be traced in its future growth
as our story moves on. I may venture, however, to an-
ticipate so much — that within two years' time two of
our strongest village churches were organized; one of
them in Nan Inta's own village. Neither of these
churches could have existed had not the UparSt's
power been abridged.
To the country, the new authority conferred on the
220 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
High CommisHioner at that time has resnlted in a
revolution as silent and as effeetual as tlie clianR*' of
the seasons. His new title, I'u Sami-et liiahakau— he
who fulflllB the King's work— was tned, I believe, for
the first time in that proclamation ; and it really
iiiarke<l the passing of the sceptre I'rom the hands of
the Princes of Chiengmai. The titular Chao Chiwit—
Lord of Life — was allowed to retain his title and
honours during his lifetime; but he has had no sui-
cessor. The Lao country has ceased to be either a
feudal dependency or a separate "buffer-state."
Silently— almost imperceptibly— it has become an in-
tegral portion of the consolidated Kingdom of Siam.
Autocratic rule has everywhere ceased. And all theae
changes are directly in line with the ciTiUzati<Hi of the
age.
XX
80HOOL8— THE NINE YEABS' WANDEBEB
l^IIE year 1870 opened anspiciously. In March a
little variety was introduced into our secluded
life by an official visit to Cbiengmai of Major
Street, the British Cominissioner at Maulmein. Uo
and his party arrived quite unexpectedly, spent a week
in the city, and attended an English service at the
mission on Sunday. We met them a number of times,
both socially and at official dinners. They strenpth-
ened the position of the Commissioner, and did us all
good. Bnt at that time we were anzionsly awaiting
another arrival, in which wo were itutro intimately con
cemed. Mr. Wilson, who had been for two and a half
years absent on furlough, was daily expected, and with
him were onr long-looked-for teachers for the Girls'
School.
The party was to arrive on April 9th. To please
the three children and myself, on the afternoon of the
8th we f(»ur started down the river in a smal' ^i.at
to meet and welcome them. Rut the river was low.
and we had not yet reached them when darkness came
on and we were obliged to seek moorings. When, st
last, we pot ashore, we 1r 1 to our preat joy thai
the mission boats were moored only a few hundred
yards below, in the samo bend of the river. W^e
all walked down in the moonlight, and presently spied
their lights close at hand. The young ladies had re-
881
'222 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tUvil to rvMl F)Mf ri..t sh-e^. Tlie meeting by moon-
light at the rivers bi-mU was ,,i,ite romauli. \Ve
talked till ten o'clock, ih.,ugl. Mr. \\ i|«uu wu« «o
thnt he could wan. iv spoak. At daybreak our
•Ic^t was un.ipr wav. \\ ,. , j„„, i.^eakfast to-
gether on board— our visii ,!... tl il.Hr liitle table and
we on the deck. We theu vixcd hard again until
noon; but it was two o = ioik In-foro we caught sight
of the niiHsion prpinis >. - i,!: rhrkrtiaag
all waiting to greet the ar..val>, ..i.l an. I , «
The High Commisaioner. a fen .1 . la n, ^ave a
dinner to the uiiwlon, saying in the n...<. «f ;nvitati«i
that It was iu honour of the yount; ladies. U,v the bold-
ness and loety that enabled theui to leav- ^heir f irhers
•ad mothera, and c ./ »e so far n. tea- i. hi.M y^ovle
When notified of their arrival, the PHncess seat down
carriages and had us all up to .all h. r. she was
delighted to welcome the young ladit», ai«l was kiter
Mted in the school.
The Siamese and the lAo ton^'ucs are two ci .sely r.
lated branches of the .same linguistic stock The Lliom
and the great body of common words are nearly the
same in the (wo, differing, where they do <i»ffer, chieflv
in a.ce-it >-;d intonation. Siamese is, „f co m -,. the
spt'ich of tue ruling race throughout (fie Siames. ; in,,,
dom; and even at tb.^ time of which we are sf^ak ug
It was easy to for. * that the loeal dialect of ^ts
rortherji provinces st cventuallv give way befo. it
csjieeially for all r , ial and literary purpo.^es. n,,'
chief obstacle in tl- way of a speedv victor v for n <•
Sh.mese ha.s been t, fact that the I^ is written n a
wholly different character. Were the iwo alike id This
KCHOOL8-T TR XIXR YEAB«' WAXDBRER 223
reHpeet, then nv douh' ♦ha* the standard fenn of
speech wouUI iake ttw ^.iaee f liie Jialectal mimmt
without notice.
Of necessity all teat hlng far sttempted ha4 been
111 tliH Hiuuietie. Ther« wiif no a MtUuolbook in the
Ifni eh,: I '<r ,(vi> ' ht ta !es. Wh ii thcac
Juid heeii i ..s<, ii ' lici as u ag '0 Liio
thai «>oal(i ?«» p»i nfo tli -ndn «»f ffa** : nor was
'hie rospc . I 'lUi:
comt' On Um' u i buiidv a
there was a v .nsiiif ibie Ol» iati: r;
- (»i
ii t}0'
a'
m as-'
iipl)
both religiottx a n]
jMISt'S of IU(
girlH; uui iliu
read writ
onlj macl
accocats, iu iviXi > Ur
start.
Now howpvfi when w
lisboK'i > of uiar t \u
7;itioi. ai d J v, (li
post In whi
iriv«'f 1 i was not
ifL'ai. to it t! <'n'
■ ars to
iiaracter
a prin?,
or I ^-
all i •
ttiui utue euu
*H, therefore, not
lor tlii'iii on other
>se character from the
iii>
'.I
it
«'ere mrived at the estab-
witli a pmuauent organi-
tion cuald no longer be
■ag >hiril instruction be
v qu. ion to decide. With
ue of opinion among the
ud w. On the one hand, it
^'me* an was a L&o mission, the Lfio
I" iO laiiiTuage of the schools. On
jioiiited out the greater scope and
■^ianH-ie, its assured supreu a-}, and
> *■ the Lao throaghout the terri-
'oi sHi at iast was compromised by
conn Miiui. le a the Girls' School, and adopt-
lD;r the Liio for tW tjf^>
Seaatime it wa» desirabie to have some portions of
yii*^. til
Co
aii.
iUt'
224 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the Scriptures in tlie Lao character; and, to accomplish
this, the first requisite was a font of Lao type. To this
end, on my first furlough in 1873, I went from North
Carolina to New York, and not only spen."; some time,
but was at some personal expense, in the effort to se-
cure such a font. The American Bible Society voted
a liberal sum for the puii)ose. Hut there tamed out
to be some mechanical diflBculties to be overcome in
maliing and using the type, which were beyond my
skill to solve. So, lest the attempt should fail in my
bands, I gave it up. And having accomplished nothing,
I presented no bill of expense either to the Bible So-
ciety or to the Board.
There seemed, indeed, to be some fatality ::ttending
onr efforts in this direction. Mr. Wilson, on the fur-
lough from which he was but now returned, had gone
further. He actually succeected in getting a font of
Lao type. But the whole of it was lost, and never
reached the mission.' It was not until Dr. Peoples'
furlough in 1889 that we succeeded iu getting our pres-
ent type. Meanwhile we bad nsed the Siamese Scrip-
tures, with some present disadvantages, indeed, but with
some advantages as well. Some of our first Christians
were attracted to our religion by their desire to learn
Siamese; and the Siamese Bible and catechism were
our textbooks. And now, under Siamese rule, knowl-
edge of the Siamese opens the way to promotion in the
government service. Siamese alone is taught in the
'Mr. Wilson brought only a few spoclmeiia with him. Ha
writes :— •' The rei« of the typ« wu to be boied up tad lent to Mr.
Cutter, and the boxes were to be put away In the store-room of the
Mission Rooms at 28 Centre Sjtrti-t, and forwarded when called for.
Thiy must have been lost wht n the Board moved from 88 Centie
Street to the Lenox property, and then to 156 Fifth Avenue.
SCHOOLS— T hi: nine YEARS' WANDERER 225
government schools. Young monks are more eager to
study Siamese than their own tongue.
But the important thing, after all, wag that we had
a school actually begun, and that there was teaching
in both dialects. It was like a new beginning of our
wori^ under conditions more favourable than at the
first. For twelve years it had been a hard, and, some-
times, an apparently hopeless struggle. Hut the his-
tory of missions affords many similar instances with
even fewer visible restilts. In twelve years we had
gathered forty converts into the church. Some of these
were among the most useful we have ever had in the
history of the mission. It is hard to estimate rightly
the importance of work spent on the foundations of
snch an enterprise. ? ;;t now, with that church or-
ganized, with the medical work well established, the
evangelistic woi^ strengthened, and the initial school,
begun long before by Mrs. McQilvary, placed on a per-
manent basis, we could write in large letters on onr
altar, " Jehovah-Nissi " — Jehovah our banner.
In the early part of this year, 1879, twelve more
persons were gathered into the church. One of them
was Pa Sdng Bun, the poor woman accused of witch-
craft, who, with so much dilBcnlty, was saved from
her persecutors. Another was ilfm C, who was a
daily visitor when we were here on our first tour of
exploration. And another was our own dear little
Margaret. Somewhat later there came to our notice
one of the most interesting of all the incidents in the
chequered history of our mission. One morning, on
returning from my work in the city, I was told that
a man had been waiting to see me, and was then talk-
ing to Nan Inta. Stepping down to the house, where
226 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
a number of persons hml collected. I saw a handsome
man of medium height, buf of .stiikiuf,' fi-ure. larger
and more portl.v than is usual among the Lao, and
thirty three years old, as I learned.
' ^'^^ fof" <'>J'^ ^vas tlie strangers name, said that
not long after our lirst arrival in Cliiengmai, while he
was yet a monk in the king s mouaslerv, he had vis-
ited me, and was struck with those points in the teach-
ings of Christianity wliich diflerentiate it from
Buddhism. Ue received a copy of the Gosjit.! of Mat
*hew in Siamese, learned a few verses, and took the
" ^^^'^ ''^n^e with him to the monastery. Afterwards
^ he visited me occasionally t(, tiiko a fiw fui (hor les-
I sons in it. He was a prot^gr^ of Prince Kav. ilorot, who
] paid the expenses of his entering the monastic order
i He thus became the Prince's " Luk keo " > (jeiccl son)
; in effect his adopted son. Not long after this he left
I the priesthood, married, and settled out in the couu-
I paid us a few visits from time to time,
always, as he said, to talk on religion and to study
Siamese.
When the order for the mnrder of the Christians was
j given, a monk who was a friend (.f bis met him in the
; streets, and asked whether he know that bis bouse was
to be bnmed over his head, explaining that the i'rince
had nourished him as a son, and now he had apostatized
and joined the foreign religion. Advising him (o con-
sider well and quickly, the priest hurried .»n. So it bad
become known in the palace that he was visiting us
and studying the Jesus religion. There was no time
to be lost, not even io bid good bye to bis voung wife
On that eventful Saturday afternoon, just before the
> A dedgnation whose nearest paraUel in English la, perbapg. god-
ton.
SCHOOLS— THE NINE YEARS' WANDERER 227
flight of our servants, he stopped at our door; but see-
ing no one, he hastened on. On Sunday he secreted
himself in a deserted monastery near the mountains.
Next day he fell in with a company of traders, going
to Ohieng RSi, six days' journey to the north, and
travelled with them without making known what his
errand was. At Ciiieuf,' Kfii he learned that the Chris-
tians were put to death the day after he left. He was
still within the Lao realm, and might be arrested. He
made his way, therefore, to Keng Tung, in Burmese
territory, ten or fifteen days' journey still further to
the north.
After remaining there some three years, he returned
to Chieng Rai, where he heard of the death of
KawilOrot and the accession of Trince Intanon. Still
in fear, he pat»ed through the towns to the east of
Chiengmai, venturing even as near as Lakawn. Then
crossing the m Ping valley to the south of Chiengmai,
he went beyond the Sal win into Burma, stopping
awhile among the Bed Kar»ns, and then going on to
llaulmein. Seeing there a foreigner's house, he en-
quired if anything was known concerning the mis-
sionaries in Zimme (Chiengmai). Nothing was known
of them. Returning again to Siamese territory, he
went to Raheng, thinking that he would go on to
Bangkok. There, however, he was told that the mis-
sionaries had gone back to the United States—in-
formation baaed, no doabt, on our departure on fur-
lough.
During bis lo"g wanderings he had made friends as
he could, anr ^ ipport hinwelf had sometimes turned
peddler. Iii .aste of his flight from home he had
taken nothing »,ith him except his copy of the Gospel
of Matthew in Siamese. He could not read it well, but
22^ AMOXG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
he kept it as a kind of talisman till it ^
-orn. Ho had learned to pZ ^'Jl J""
return <il] he heard of fhl L- ^ ^®
'^garded it a Zt^ J^'l^^^^^ He
Btrange to say haj nlT; P'-ov'-denr. that his wife,
ar^erls Hir^tt'frnr;;^:^^^ a'r ^'^^•"^ '"^^^
<lesire was uud.s.and . I th^t tr
Gospel of Matthew / " ' * ^^^^^ ^8
spared and kent for 1 •'"^""^
P-od. slnJri .'^rr^^-t'-- And so it
a fine l^uddhist sch^ar T '''''' ^« '^^^
«o that I miJh hat h ""''''''■"^ *«'«^her.
tory interested and attraotro'he« k ''t
member, as a ruling elder and If t ^
dained minister, he was a Zl «° o^
the Ca.v when he was Taken r iJ"" ''•"^^'^
Gospel from hi! Z "nd ^' ^honsands heard the
~ h. hVii?: -r th??!^^^^^^
things which alarmed Kawilr.rot If la u^^^
acute attack of pneumonia made a
SCHOOLS— THE NINE YEAKS' WANDERER 229
longer stay in the country impogsible. My dangbter
Cornelia was taken ill at the same tinuj So, witli
but little preitaiati(jn, on DecemlK^r 2Stl(, 187!), both
mother and daiij^hter were carried iu chairs to the
boat, and we iiassleued out of the country. Stopping
in Bangkok only a few days, we embarked for Hong-
kong. We met the Cliiua Sea in its worst mood. For
three days and nights we did not see the captain's face ;
neither did he see sun, moon, or stars in that most
dangerous tract of the sea. The skylight was fastened
down, for the waves swept the vessel from stem to
atem. We were good sailors; but we could not but
pity the one hundied and twenty Chinese steerage
passengers, allowed ou deck only a few moments twite
a day for a breath of air, after which Ihey had almost
to be forced back into their hole again. There was
withal just enough of the spice of danger to make the
sight of Victoria Peak at last doubly welcome.
By this time my family were all so much improved
by the journey that there was question whether 1
should proceed with them, or should return to Chieng-
niai for another year's work. It was evident that, in
order to regain her strength, Mrs. McGilvary would
require a longer stay in the United States tijau one
year. I could neither spare the time for so long a
furlough for tuyself, nor could I expect the Board to
grant it. The (juestion was not an easy one; but we
decided at last that my wife and children should con-
tinue their journey to the United States, and that I
should return to Cliiengmai alone.
During my few days' stay in Bangkok, through the
kindness of our Consul, I had an audience with His
Ma^ty the King. I desired to express to him in
230 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
person uiy tliankH for the Edict of Toleration. After
some ivnarks addressed to A» other i^tlemen pres-
ent, the KinR asked me if I were not, duriiij^ IIh* previ-
ous month, the bearer of despat« heK from his ^ oinnii.s-
sioner in the Nortli — showing that he did not >verlo4>k
small matters, as a king mi|^ he expected t» do. Re
enquired how T liked the Coiiiniissionfr, w : iier 1
preached in Siamese or in Lao, iiuw many converts
we had, etc., etc. It was a very pleasant inter-
As I iisoeiided tlie river, if became plain liiat the
water was too low to permit the latter stage of the
trip to be Bade in my large boat. At (>hiengmai I
should iiud a bouse, but not a home. Hefore I could
reach it, the touring season would be nearly over.
The thought of stopping a season for W(irk at Kahtog
strack me favourably. The more I considered it, the
more attractive it became. To be sui-e. 1 bad not s«;-
Gured the sanction of the mission to that particular
enterprise; but I had always been allowed to choose
my own touring ground. An otticer. Sen r'tamri, of-
fered me a site for a bamboo bouse gratis; and before
I had announced my final decision, be and others be-
gan to cut bamboo on it to build the house. I had
asked for guidance, and the question seemed to settle
itself.
I cannot dwell on the interesting six months of the
year 1880 spent there. Sen Utauja was interested
from the first. liy aflliction be biid been wonderfully
prepared for, and seemed to be waiting for, the very
consolation that the Gospel offered him. An ez-taz-
collector. a (Miines«' i-f some influence, was in the same
state of mind, and soon joined the other as an en-
quirer. My student, Noi lutacbak, entered heartily
KCnoOLS— THE NIXK YICAKS' WANDEIIKR
into the work. So(*n, with niv cook iind boy. we had
the nucleus of quite an interesting congregation who
attended worship twice a day. It was a delight to
teach them.
The case of the Chinese was deeply interesting. He
believed the Gcspel plan of salvation, and was deeply
anxious to be saved from his sin and its pnnishment.
Rut there was one serious obstacle in the way of his
making an open profession — he had two wives. The
real wife — the one he had formally married — was child-
less. Tlio one he had bought was younger, and had two
lovable little children, both girls. I recall almost with
tears the burning questionings we had over that situa-
tion. He seemed willing to make any self-sacrifioe that
duty required. Hut what was duty? Should he di-
vorce one of them? If so, which one? " Of course, he
must keep the real one," you will say. But what of
the young mother and the helpless babes? Hie very
mention of their being turned adrift, even with a
dower, had produced a scene in the family. The
poor woman felt quite unable to care for the children
alone. The children were his children. It might easily
have been the ruin both of mother and babes to put
her aw.iy. My heart was not hard enough to advise
that. Surely the man had not cut himself off from
the hope of salvation by Iiis past— by an error or sin of
ignorance. The conditions of church-membership are
faith and repentance. The sacraments of the church
are baptism and the Lord's Supper. Shall we offer a
man the pardon of hh- nin without its sacramental
seals? — the glorious hope of endless fellowship in
heaven, but not the communion of saints on earth?
A precisely parallel case I had met before in the per-
son of a native doctor at Mtiang Awo. " What then,"
232 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the reader will ask, " did you do? " Why, in each case
I just (lid IK. thing. I followed the letter of the law,
and baptized neither one. But " the letter killeth; the
spirit nialioth alive."
In doe time 8*n Utamfi and a nephew of the Chinese
woro baptized. An interesting tour was made up the
river. Kut tJie station in (niiengniai was feeling the
pressure of the growing worlc. In July, 1880, the
church of Bethlehem was organized, and there were
proniisinfi ()i)oninf;s in (ither districts. It was evident
that the IJoard was not in a condition to consider a
permanent station in Rahteg. It would have been an
interesting field for permanent occupation; but for
temporary work, I had Imm there as long a time 88
we could atlord t(t spend in one place.
Jost then Praya SThanat— the officer from Lakawn
who, two vears iHjfore, had greeted me with " Eph-
phatha "—invited me to return with him. His ears
were not opened, but his heart was. Ue had taught the
Christian faith to his wife and children and a few
others, nnd among these was a fellow ex-offlcer. He
wished with them (o receive further and fuller instruc-
tion, and to be taken into the fellowship of the church.
Without waiting to ascertain whether I could go, he
was come with a boat to bring me. This seemed
to me the guiding hand of providence, and I fol-
lowed it.
Since a single boat cannot a.^cend the rapids with-
out the help of another boat's crew, we made arrange-
ment., to join forces with another party, and maL.^.
the trip together. The night before we were to start,
the river, w' it h had been stoadil.v rising, became a flood
so strong that my host dared not face it in his small
craft. Our companions, however, did not wait for na,
HCIIOOLS— THE NINE YEAKS' WANDEKEH 2.'}3
but went on us they bad plunned. We waited ten
days for another party, as well as for the river to go
duwn. Imagine my sensatioDs, tlien, when, presently,
we learned that the captain and owucr of tlie principal
boat in the flotilla with which we had planned to make
the trip, was shot and killed, and his boat was
plundered! A band (»f dacoits secreted themselves be-
hind a cluster of trees where the channel runs close
to the bank, shot the steersman at his oar, and then had
the boat at their mercy. Since all foreigners are sup-
posed to carry money, the attack may well have been
inten^led for me. Earlier in that same year, while
returning alone to Rahtog, I came near being en-
trapped by a similar band.
The visit to Lakawn was interesting and profitable.
Ten days were spent with the new converts. While
my friend, the Prayil, had been busy, the devil had not
been idle. One of the princes had threatened to have
one of his head men flogged if be joined the Christians.
Bnt before we teft, a chnrch was organized, with Prayft
SIhanfit as elder.
From Lakawn I took elephants to Chiengraai, and
spent the last Sunday of my trip with Nun Inta and
the newly organized chnrch of Bethlehem, named after
Mr. Wilson's old church in Pennsylvania. Nan Inta
was waiting for me where the road to bis village turned
off from the main route. On Christmas day following
this, Mr. Wilson, Dr. Cheek, and Miss Cole organized
yet another church at M^ Dawk Deng, where Nan Su-
wan had been doing faithful work. In both these cases
the persecution for supposed witchcraft had furnished
a good nucleus for the church, which thereafter the
Edict of Toleration protected from expulsion.
All the departments of our work., medical, educa-
234 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TUE LAO
tionil, eviinRt'listii', wen- prosiwrlng. Nfin Tft, the
loUK tiiiu' wanderer, wti.s beiouiiug a power second only
to Nun Juta, and destined ultimately to 8urpa88 him.
Like him, he waH a man of tliie uddremi and bearing,
and aK'X'd Mudilliist sdioliir; l>iit lie was tiiurli younfjcr.
lieing, moreover, tlie sun of a I'ravfi -tlie liigliest grade
of L&o ofBcer»— be bad an influence with the nobility
sut'h as no other of our Christians liad. In the clnin li
he l)egan to show a capat it.v nnd jiower sach as prob-
ably no ot!ier person has exercised.
Meanwhile Mr. Wilson was working on plans for a
building for the *)\vW High School. Already the
school numbered forty-two pupils, but with no place
in which to teach them save the teacher's house. The
season had been very hard od Miss Campbell's health.
She was very yuun^, nud had come direct to ('liicnf^-
mai from the seminary without any period of rest, and
with a constitution by no means robust. The mission
voted her a trip to Haugk<»li for rest. Little did we
think when we bade her good-bye that we should see
her face no more.
Financially for me the year had been the hardest
in my life. With all the econoinv we could use — and
we did not spend a useless [)enny — it seemed impossible
for me to keep my fauiily going. When we left Ghieag-
mai we had overdrawn onr salary, and the amount had
to be made up that year. This condition was one of
the straws that helped to determine me to stop over
in Bahtog. I could live more cheaply there; in fact,
conld hardly spend money there if I wished to. In
only one matter had I been greatly disappointed in
Kah^ng ; I hoped to be in somewhat closer commnnica-
tion with my family, about whom I still felt some
anxiety. I wm, indeed, nearer them in space, but it
KCUOOLS— TlIK NINE VICAUS' W ANIHIKEK UlC.
j.n.vel iinnli I'nrtlicr in time. The lin-ROst mail of the
^vi'ur imssed on up to Chiengumi, and was sent back,
reaching Rahtog jnat after I bad left the place. It
flnnlly i t-ached me in CUengmai on the last day of the
year 188U!
XXI
SECOND FURLOUGH
MY ho.iltli lintl hpen such tliut I hoped I might
mU'\\ fiueg(. my furlough, and have my wife
and our yoongeiit child return to (^hiengmai
alone. .Mv wife, iifu-r tin«lin}; a liome for a while with
hpr bn.tlM I, I'rolesHor Bradley, in Oakland, had gone
on in the npriu},' to North Carolina. Bnt Rhe waa not
gaining much in streugtL. and plainly retjuircil another
year. My own heultli was U(»t s(» jjood as it was at
the hegiuuing of t' .• year. Ceitaiu nymptoms gave lue
anxiety, and decided me to delay my own furloui^
no lunger. If it wuh lu In- taken at all, the sooiior the
Ix'tter. Ho ou March l-'ih, 1881, I started for the
United States. The furlough which was now begin-
ning ended twenty-three yeara of iier?ice in the general
Held of Siani. and fourft'cn vctus spent among the Lao.
I had proceeded down the river but a few days, when
a passing Iwat brought the astounding intelligoice of
the tragic deitlli of our esteeuietl and youngest co-
labourer. Miss Mary Caiiipbell, Wliat words can ex-
press the shock I received! The uew.s was confirmed
a few days later by Dr. Cheek, whom I met on the
river. At this distance it is unnecessary tn enlarge
on the particulars of the sad catastrophe. Indeed, it
was all so sudden that there were few particulars to
relate. Dr. Cheek had gone down to Bangkok on
business soon after Miss f 'ampbell left n«. and now was
2S«
returning with Miw* ('lunplicU under his twort. A(
the e\tm of a hot day'* run, the boatH !n.y inoctrpd by
a aand-bar for the night. Tlicy hntl liail Ihoir cvrninn
iiu'iil and worship togothor. in-, riu-ok hait tnkon his
bath in tii« river, bud (.'xuiuineu the bur, und notttled
Mim Campbell ho-v far it wan safe to venture In
taking here. But .omchow nIk' ' titmed out too far
— to a depth from wliich only anjjelic arms could re-
ceive her to a shore where there is no more death.
The brave effort of her L&o maid, Kam Tip, and Dr.
Chct k's nnsiicics f s' ciii li till lonj; after life nnist
have iKcn extinct, were well known at the lime. 8he
bad ; t juat come to her choaen field of work, in the
bloom of youth and in the full ardour of her first con-
vo('rati(»n, little thinkiUR that her work was to b<' so
hoon and so sadly closed. Uer last written words to
a friend, with the ink on them scarcely dry before her
death, were: " Bn* : am not ! for I l ave found in
ny dear Lao girls, Bftk . ^ydiu Tip, and in Nan TS,
my teacher, more company . ' ever expected. 1
wish I could Iced them to . ♦ - ' > n •enough for yon to
know than."
It will be evident to all that in 1^1 the work in •
force of the mission was entirely inadetpiate r«)r ot
cnpvins and cultivating lli<> broad and inviting field,
now opened to us an never liefore. The medical wark,
constantly enlarging, occupied tbf physician's whole
time. Mr. Wilson's physical < . .iition, never very
!-tn>T)fr. confined hln labours to the station and its
inimediate vicinity. The attention which these alone
required would more than fill one maa's time. The
death of Miss Campbell niado iirii-crative " associate
for Miss Cole. So, even if the trip to ilie United
238 AM().\(J THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
Stales had not been rendereii iniporative by considora-
tions of my own health, the best interests of the work
itself seemed to demand that soine one shoald go to
8eek reinforcement by direct and personal appeal to
the church at home.
As 'or Mrs. McGilvary, after si^nding the spring
of 1880 with her brother in Oakland, California, she
came on with our younper s(»n to Stutesville, Nort'i
Carolina, where she could be with our daughters, and
not far from nor elder uon in Davidson College.
On my arrival in New York, 1 hastened on at once
to North Caroliua, where 1 sjient tlie summer with
my family and friends, lecturing from time to time in
the chnrcbes. The fall of this year I spent in Texas
and Arkansas, visitinp relatives and friends who liad
migrated thither from the family nest in North Caro-
lina. In Texas I attended the meeting of the South-
ern Synod, and both there and elsewhere I found many
opportunities for pi-esenting the ciuse of foreign mis-
8ioni<; and everywhere I encountered v.arm reception
and eager interest in the work among the L&o. In the
winter I came nortli to visit tl • Theological Sem-
inaries, and to enlist men for the Lao mission. On
my way 1 stiipiied in Oxford, Ohio, where 1 met Miss
Lizzie Westervelt (afterward Mrs. Stanley K.
Phraner), then in her senior year in Miss Peabody's
Seminary, and preparing for missionary work among
the Lfto, upon which she entered in the following year.
This was the sciiool which had givm ns Mim Mary
Campbell and Miss I^lna Cole a few years before.
While waiting for the Theological Seminaries to re-
open after the Christmas recess, I was tie guest of
my wife's cousins at Castletcm Corners, Staten Island.
There I had the very pleasant experience of observing
SECOND FUHLorciH 239
"Watch Night" with tlie Moravian Church, of which
my friaida were aembera. They called on the Lao
missir.naiy for an account of his experience in the field.
In that, of course, there was nothing remarkable. But
near the cloae of the next year, when writing to the
fanjily, I allnded to the pleasant memory of Watch
Night and sent my greetings to the church with a re-
quest to be remembered in their prayei-s. Instead of
giving my message yerlwlly, my friends read the letter
II. self, and it seemed to be appreciated. The imit was
that the Lao letter came to be looked for regularly as a
part of the watch service, and one was sent to them
every year— if I were on the field— for seventeen years.
It was a comfort to know that special juayer was al-
ways offercHl for us by that great missionary church
as the old year was dying, and the new year was com-
ing in.
The Professors at Princeton, Union, and Allegheny
all gave their cordial endorsement and aid to me in
my efforts to secure men. *• We want you to get our
best men," they said, and the Lord gave them to ns.
From I'rinceton came Chalmers Martin of the senior
class. He had been chosen, however, for the Hebrew
Fellowship, and was, therefore, delayed a year before
entering npon his missionary work. Though his career
in the Lfto field was a 8h(»rt one, he left a lasting
mait there, as we shall see. Allegheny gave us Rev.
K c. Peoples. M.I)., and his brother-in-law, Rer. J. H.
Hearst. Dr. Peoples' how still abides in strength.
His double preparation both as a minister and as a
physician, gave him nnasual equipment for the work
be has a.coinpIi.shed. Mr. Hearst, however, soon snc-
cumlK'd to the Chiengiiiai clitnati'.
Union gave us that couseciated young man, Mc-
240 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
Laren, who chose the great city of Ban^ok— a fitting
field for him, since his broad sympathies were bounded
by no one race >r people. His career also was cut
sliort witliiu a few uionlbs by cboleia, c«mtracted while
ministering to dying seamen in the hai^oaor Coring a
severe epidemic of the disease.
The Northwestern Woman's Board of Foreign Mis-
sions was then, as it has been since, a great centre of
missionary euthusiasui. It bad sent out Miss ('ole and
Miss Caiiipbell; and unw tiie sudden death of tlic la!
ter had <aused its interest and that of the Chicago
ehnrches to concentrate npon the Ltio mission. It was
to this combination of tinuinslanccs that I was in-
debted for an invitation to attend its Annual Meeting
in Minneapolis, and to s|jeali there. Then the appoint-
ment of Dr. L. E. Wishard's daughter (afterwards Mrs.
l>r. Fulton of rant(»n, (Miiua), and that of Miss Sadie
Wirt (Mrs. Dr. fcs. C. I'eoples), from his church in
Chicago, gave me a pleasant visit in the Doctor's fam-
ily both as I went up to Minneapolis and as I re-
turned. On a Siindiiy at Lake Forest, between the
Sunday School, the I niversity, tlie Ladies' Seminary,
and the church, the Lao Mission had four bearings.
At Minneapolis we learned tliiit Miss Warner from the
Northwestern Woman's I'.oard. and Miss Griffin from
the Southwestern, were also ajipointed to our mission,
and Miss Linneil to Lower Siam. This completed our
number. tlii> larp-st ri>iaforcement the mission has ever
received at one time.
After the adjournment of the Northwestern Board,
a Sunday was s(.«'Ut wilh the family and the church of
Miss Mar\ Canipitell After li;it, appointments with
other rhiirt lies tilled up uiy time till the nieelinj; of the
Qeneral AssemMy is Springfield, Illinois, which I at-
SECOND FURLOUGH
241
tended, thoagh not as a delegate. Our Proshytcrr of
North Laos bad not then been organized, <ind Dr. IC. P.
Dunlap was the rcprospntiitivc of ilio Proslntorv of
Siam. At that meeting it m'iiu'<i tu nie tluit a golden
opportnnitj was miraed for drawing together in a
closer union the Northem and tlic Soutliern branches
of the Pri sbvtoriiin t'hiirch. The oiitconic threw tlie
Southern ihurtli, nuah more weakened by the war
than the Northern, on its own resources. In profior-
tion to its financiiil strcii'ith. it has (h'Vt'1o])<'d into one
of the Htrongest missionary cliurches in the land, both
as regards the home worlc and the foreign. Meantime,
with the growth of the country generally, the Northern
Assembly is Ikti ming too unwieldy a bofly for its best
eflSciency. 1 believe the time will lomc when there
will be three Assemblies rather than one, with a
triennial Assembly of all on a basis of representation
agreed njion by the three — somewliat after the plan
of the Method'st and the Episcopal chuiches; or, more
nearly still, after the plan of the Pan-Presbyterian
Council.
In duties and pleasures such as have just been de-
scribed, the time slipped by till it was the fith of
June. 1SS2, before I again reached my family in Slates
ville. We were to start Lfio ward almnt the middle of
July. Sly furlough en<led with a visit to my old charge
at Union, to attend the dedication of a new church
there, and to see my old friends once more.
We began to gather up our scattered forces at Chi-
cago, where the Fifth Church gave to its pastor's
daughter, and to the rest of us there present, a hearty
farewell. The others of onr liirge party j.iined us at
dilierent points on our route across the continent. Dr.
Eugene P. Dunlap and his family, also returning from
242 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
furlough, were the very last to join us, just in time to
sail with us from San Francisco.
A miBsionary's vacation is very delightful, but the
last day of it — tlie day that brings him hark to his
home and his work — is the best of it all. Tho small
Bangkok steamers of those days could not furnish ac-
commodation for our whole party at once. Some of
us were, therefore, compelled to lie over at Canton —
a circumstance which changed the ultimate locution of
one of our young ladies to the Canton mission, just as
a previous successor to Miss Campbell had in a sim-
ilar manner been changed to another station in China.
But where there are young folks, such accidents will
happen.
At Bangkok our United States Consul, Cioneral
Partridge, arranged for us an audience witi; the King.
His Majesty gave us a cordial reception, espicssiug his
gratification at seeing so many American missionarim
coming to his country; since he knew that they came
to instruct his iieople, and to make them more in-
telligent and better citizens.
Reinforcements surely had not come too soon. Dr.
Wilson, Mrs. Cheek, and .Miss Cole were the only mis-
sionaries on the tield when we i-eturned; for Dr. Cheek
was absent on business. It was now four years since
the proclamation of religious toleration; and for the
first time was there prospect <.f workers enough to make
any use of the advantages it oft'ered.
But had we relied too much on human aid? Were
we too much elated in view of our present numbers,
with Mr. Martin to foilow the next year? After a
short stay in Bangkok, we reached Cbicngmai in the
midst of one of those violeni epidemics of fever by
which the lAo country was then, perhaps, more fre-
SECOND FURLOUGH 243
qiipntl.v visilid than if ig now. Mr. and Mrs. Hearst
and Miss ^^■arne^ were Koon prostrat<-d with tho dis
ease, and at one time, out «>f ihe wiiole luission, scarcely
enough were left to care for the sick. Mr. and Mrs.
Hearst soon decided to ^ive up tlie sfrup};le and with-
draw from tiie field. Miss Warner continued lonRfr,
but ultimately she, too, retired with broken heaifh
As already stated, Mr. McLaren died of cholera after
a few hours' Rickness in Hanfjkok. (Jod was leaching
us that it is not by nught nor by power, but by My
Spirit, saith Jehovah."
Soon other ( (niiplicalions arose. Smallpox was
brought by pupils into the Girls' School, and, to our
consternation, Miss Griffin fell a victim. She had been
vaccinated in her childhood, but was not revaccinated
on leavin<i home— which is always a wise precaution
for those expecting to travel or to live in the East.
Proper measures prevented further spread of the dis-
ease; md though our patient had a rather hard at-
tack, yet she made good recovery.
During our absence, the church had sustained a great
loss in the death of Nin Inta, our first convert and as-
sistant. Hot liis works d(» follow him, and his life
will long continue to be a precious legacy to the Lao
church. He lived, however, until others were ready to
take his place. NHn 8! Wichai, who long had been
Dr. Chej'k's teacher, was a stronj,' character, and he was
ordained as au elder. Nfm Ta, also, who had wandered
so far and so long after the persecution, was growing
fo le a power in the church, ami afterwards had the
honour of becoming the first ordained minister amonff
the Lfto.
XXII
A SUBVEYINO EXPEDITION
ON the 26th of Febmar;?, an KrM Indian
apjH'art'd on nm- vi i.imlii wiili an iiii(X|iftlrd
nolc from rii.v did kik-sI :m<l I'nciiti, iWv. I>r. .F.
N. Cushinj; of the Aiiifiritan HapliMl Shan Mission.
The stirprine and pleasnre of a visit from him and Mrs.
<'nsliiug in tin- rarl.v iiiid loncsuinc davs of ilir iiii-siun
iiavo alivad.v been refirml to. Tlie note lold us iliat
lie was now connei ted, uh interpreter, with a unrvcv iny
expedition under 0<»lt 8. Hallett, E8*|.. and Uiai the
party would arrive in ( 'liii-nfrniai on the luliowinn day.
The railroad fur which Mr. llallelt was survey ing a
route was part of a scheme, then on foot, to baild a
road fn»ni .Manlinein to ( 'hicnfiniai, thei-e to (oniict t
with n roiid frtun Hanfikok. throiiyh tiie Lfto country,
to ("itifuj? Sen, and, if successful, to l>e continued up
to Yunnan, China. For some reason ♦he scheme was
not carried out, ttiil the prosiicct of ;inv mud to cnnnoct
our iholated field with ilie outside world was attractive
to us.
The party arrived ilie next day; and since it would
lie very inionveiiieul for Mr. Ilailell t<; he separatwl
from Dr. l ushing, we foun«l room in oui house for
Mr. Hallett also, and had a fine visit with both. They
soon began to tempt me to join ilieii expediti^m. All
*X('< Hses were to lie paid. They 'vere not to travel on
tsunUay. Their intended route, through the towns and
344
A sL'KVi:viN<J i:xri:i»iTH)N
villagM on tho wiiy to ('lii('n)>; liai :in<l CliifiiK S<*n, aud
southward aguin to Lukuwu, wuh uvlt gruund 1 wuh
anxiom to travel once more. The trip would give om
:\ long and prulUablc visit witli iiiv rrii-iid, Dr. ('iishing.
liut, b(>HideH all iiersouul cuiisiderutiuUM, it seemed
right to give a little aid tu an enterprise that would
redound to the good of the country.
Our Chit'nninai I'rince, then <iuitf old, was most iu-
crediiluUH uh to the powtibiiitieH of the wonderful rail-
road. In hiH book, A Thouaand Milet of» on Elephant
in thf Shan Stnti/>, Mr. Hullett has n'wen an aiiinsiug
iirnniiil of his llrst iulerviow witii the I'rince. lie had
great ditliculty in understunding huw a train eouid
more faster than poniee, or bow it could move at all
without l)eing drawn liy some animal. .\nd how could
it aHcend the hills? For it would nurely slide down
unlesa it were pulled up. " I ex{)lained to him that I
bad made three railways in England, therefore be
might rely upon what I had said. Railways were
made in various parts <jf the world over much more
difficult bills than those lying between Zimme (Chieng-
mai) and Maulniein. ... lie seemed (luite stupefied
l»y the revclatif>n. It might be so — it must be so, as I
had seen it ; but he could not understand how it could
be. He was very old; he could not live much longer.
He hojK'd wr would he quick in setlinn alMiu) and con
structing the line, as otherwise he would not have the
pleasure of seeing it."
We started at last on March 3d, 1884, with four
lari^c ridinjj elephants, four pack elciihanls. and u\\-
merous carriers, making forly-t»ne persons in all. The
passport from the Siamese government, supplemented
l)y one from the acting Connnissioiier. and the jn est nee
with us of a L&o official of some rank, sent to see that
MICROCOPY RESOLUTION TEST CHART
(ANSI ond ISO TEST CHART No 2)
^ /APPLIED INA^GE Inc
'v
246 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the orders were carried out, secured for us men and
elephants and all necessary equipments, so I'ar as the
country could furnish them. The local ollicials were
usually very kind, and as prompt as native oflScials
ever were in those days. Mr. Hallett was very con-
siderate in arranging to stop for the night and on
Sundays near large villages and towns, where a little
missionary work could be done. In the cities where
there were Christians, we held regular serviros on
Sundays. On these occasions our chief gave the in-
fluence of his presence, though, of course, he could
not understand what was said.
On this trip ve had a good opportunity for studying
the characteristics of the elephant. He is very con-
scious of his dignity, and must be treated with the
respect due to a king, and not with the familiarity of
an equal. Yet one is amused at his timidity. I my-
self have seen one ready to stampede if a squirrel or
a big rat ran across the road in front of him. Mr.
Hallett says: " Elephants, though immense in size, are
very timid, and easily startled. We had to take them
vft the path and turn their heads away into the
jungles, whenever we heard the tinkling hells of an ap-
proaching caravan; and they will turn tail and run at
the sight of an audacious little dog that thinks fit to
bark at them."
On sonie of the stages of our march, when we had a
mother-elephant in our company, we had the mis-
chievous youngster along. Such are always an un-
ceasing source of amusement. One of lliese seemed to
have a special spite against Mr. llallett's Madras boy,
either because of his peculiar dress, or for some lib-
erty he had taken with him. Mr. Hallett writes : " The
little elephant was taking every chance he could get
A SURVEYING EXPEDITION 24T
to bustle the men over as they forded the streams, and
in souse ♦lipin with water from his trunk. Portow,
who had an overweening opinion of his own dignity,
and was bent on setting up as an oracle, was, unfor-
tunately, the butt of the boys, but was likewise the
sport of the baby-elephant. Many a time have I seen
him hustled over by the youngster, wlio seemed to
have picked him out as his playmate. Slyly and softly
stealing up behind, be would suddenly increase his
pace, and, with a (inick slniflie or a sudden lurch,
shoulder him sprawliug to the ground. Portow, dur-
ing this part of the journey, behaved like a hunted man,
ever looking behind to see whether the dreadful infant
was behind."
My friend. Dr. Gushing, who had been put in charge
of the train, and our prince-guide, both believed in the
oriental idea of making an impression by as imposing
a pageant as possible. On nearing Chieng Rai, they
marshalled us in procession, so that we enter^ the
city in state, with ten armed men leading the way.
Possibly it had its desired effect, for a warm welcome
was given us, and every aid was granted.
In the eleven years since my first visit there with
Dr. Vrooman, the city had grown in size. The fertil-
ity of its soil and the large extent of its arable land
were sure to attract still larger population from the
south. In addition to these natural advantages, it had
then another strong claim for a mission station. While
all the other Lao states, through their rulers, submit-
ted to the introduction of Christianity rather than wel-
comed it, C'hieng Bfli and Thieng 8to were exceptions.
The rulers of both desired the presence of the mission-
aries.
The Sunday spent there was a welcome day of rest.
248 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
The week had been a strenuous one. In the morning
we held a puMic service -the first ever held there.
Mr. nallett and our prince guide attended, sind curi-
osity collected quite a congregation. After tiffin, Dr.
Gushing and I spent several hours— the first quiet ones
wo had had— reading in the monastery grounds at the
great bend of the river.
That evening I met the governor at home and, save
for the presence of his wife, alone. His intelligent
enquiries as to ,lie truths and teachings of our religion
showed that he had already thought much on the
subject. Krii Nan Ta and he were not very distant
relatives, and had had m. oy conversations on the sub-
ject. His regard for our mission and his earnest
desire for a mission station, as well as the protection
he afterwards gave the Christian^ when they were
wronged, had, 1 believe, a deeper foundation than an
intellectual interest, or even a personal friendship
for ns.
Our next stage was Chieng Sen. There Nan Suwan,
our ruling elder, and his family gave us a warm wel-
come. He met us at the city gate, hardly hoping there
would be a missionary in the expedition, which, rumour
told him, was coming. His house stood on the bank of
the river, just where Dr. Vrooman and 1 landed thir-
teen years before, when the only occupants were wild
beasts. The new settlers had been so busy providing
housing and sustenance for themselves, that only one
monastery building had been roofed, and only a por-
tion of its images stored under shelter. Our old
friend the pivernor had cmly a bamboo residence. Nan
Suwan had made friends by the help of the quinine
with which he had been supplied, and he had the best
house in the city. It served, also, as a chapel, in
A SURVEYING EXPEDITION 249
which, with grateful hearts, we worshipped on
Bnnday.
The governor was even more insistent in his demand
for a mission station than the governor of Chieng Kai
had been. He even offered to send down elephants to
move us up, if we would come. His was not the <:eep
religious nature of the Chieng Rai governor. He pos-
sibly belioved that in their sphere all religions were
alike good. He urged, as he had done before, that we
might even then forestall the monasteries and pre-
occupy the field. Nothing would have pleased me
more, had it been possible, than to accept the cordial
invitation. It was true, as the governor said, " The
people must and will have some religion. If you do
not give them Christianity, they must take Buddhism."
It was only necessity that could resist such a plea.
But half a loaf is better than no bread. If we were
not ready to start a regular station in Chieng Sfin, we
must somehow work the lield as best we could. That
consideration determined my long tours in the dry sea-
sons of the years that followed.
Up to this time I had never been properly equipped
and outfitted for such tours. One outcome of this trip
was a gi-eat improvement in my means of transporta-
tion for the future. An application made long before
this to the Board for an elephant, had been received as
a huge joke. But now it happened that in the assign-
ment of elephants for our upward trip, a large sadaw —
a male without tusks — had fallen to me. lie proved to
be an exceptionally fine beast belonging to an estate
abont to be divided. He must be sold, and was held at
a very ( heap figure. With the help of a contribution by
Mr. Hallett, and the hire paid for its use, T was able to
purchase it. The deputy governor gave me a good how-
250 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
dah for it. I was as proud of luy new aciui.Ui.m a«
fver a boy was of a new toy. But since few elephants
wTu travel well aloue, 1 now needed a mate for hirn^
Before long I was fortunate enough to get a cheap and
STua ly go^ female. I was then prepare, for n.y Ion.
^urs. I could cross streams in safety, nd I.
tected from rain, even if my journey were prolonged be-
yond the limits of the dry season.
On our return journey, in Mflang Payao we came m
contact with tue worst epidemic ^"^^I'l'^^/J;"!,^
have ever seen. We met it at everv turn in the street.
With difficulty could we keep pare, ts with children, all
broken out with the disease, in their arms, from crowd^
LTround us in our sala. We had hardly taken our
Belts on the rugs spread for us at the gove^ors of^
flcial reception of Mr. Hallett, when wo d.soovered
ca OS of smallpox all ahout us. Dr. Cushmg was
nervously afraid of it, and retired. I had to remam
au hour as interpreter. Imagine our constornat.on on
reaching the next station 1o find that the Doo or
sLowed unmistakable signs of having ^'ontracted the
dreadful disease, although he had been vaccmat^ xn
his youth. What a discovery to he made on a jm r^
ney, and four days from home! On consultatum it was
thoWht best to hasten on to Chiengmai, a thing which
our mode of travel made possible. Mr. and Mrs. u V
a«rs Martin had arrived during our ..bseiice, and had
taken up their <,uarters in our house. l^J^^^^^^^^
fore, impossible to take our sick friend in We did
he kext best thing, and gave him a new han boo hou e
on our hospital lot, where Dr. Peoples carefully
watched over him till he made a rapid recovery, and
was able to return home in a boat as far as H-'"?'^^^,
and thence by see. f>ia Singapore. It was a sad close,
A bURVEi'ING EXPEDITION
251
however, to our pleasant visit together, and to our
otherwise interesting and profitable tour.
I returned from Chieng S^n, as we have seen, with
an elephant of my own. On reaching home I found
awaiting me the best puny I ever had. It was sent
to me as a present from the governor of Elawng
Sawn, near the Halwin River. I had never been to M6
Uawng Sawn, and bad but a very limited acquaintance
with the governor. According to my uniform custom
in those days, on his official visits to Chiengmai, T bad
twice called upon him as the governor of a neighbour-
ing province. On both occasions we had conversation
on the different merits of the two religions. On one
of these visits be had brought down some ponies to sell,
and on my asking the price of one he said, " I am
very sorry that I have sold all my gentle oitea. There
is only one left. If you can use him, I shall be glad
to give him to you." It is a McGilvary trait not to
be timid about horses, and 1 said, " I will try him."
So the pony was sent down to my house ; but he proved
rather too much for my horsemanship. The first time
I mounted him, be threw me and sprained my wrist.
It was the unanimons vote of the family that he be
returned with thanks. The governor sent back word
that he was very sorry; but never mind; when he
reached home he would see to it that I bad a good
pony — a message which, I am sorry to say, I took as a
good oriental compliment. I had even forgotten all
about the matter, when, on my return from this trip,
I found the pony in my stable. He was a most
valuable and timely present.
But we art not quite done with Mr. Hallett's sur-
vey. He made a short excursion without an inter
252 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE 1^0
preter to the hot springs. Kut his final tni. was be
?o Mflan, Fans, six days to the north an*!;;^^
route p..'viously taken, and distant Bome e gb y-
miles from ChicrigmaL His object was to the re
were not an easier route to Chieng Rai down the y^\-
U^rTtL Me Fang and the M6 Kok The tnp
Ht onglv appealed both to Mr. Martin and to me^d
we gUdly aLepted Mr. Halletfa invitation t accom-
^TftJngFang was an ancient city capti and de-
stroyed by the Burmese in 1717; so that it lay in
r^ns nearly two hundred years befot. it was repeopled^
Tides MMng Fang, we visited, either - gomg or^
turning our other citles-Chier.g DSo, Mftang Ngft^,
MMng i'ao, and Miiang Kto. Not far to the south of
Canl Fang we visited the cave of Top Too noted m
the Buddhist legends of Northern Siam. Mr. Hallett
thus describes our experiences there:
« Inside was a lofty cavern lighted by a naW slight
nn » raised platform in the cave was a great reclining
J ?Lr="5 r of -^o,*..,, ^^^^
torches and proceeded further u.to the bowels of the earin^
J^lTl eniovcd a quiet smoke amongst the gods. Down
ty went crpt: through low, narrow Pa-^f
Zl along ledges, with chasms and pits hning their path a.
A SURVEYING EXPEDITION 253
the cave cxpunded — Iiottoinlcss as far as they could jiidgR by
the faint light of their torches, but really not more than
twenty or thirty feet deep — ^until they could get no further,
and had to return, having proceeded about the eighth of
a mile."
That night brought us to the M£ F&ag River. The
narrative proceeds :
" Here we spent the most unpleasant night we had yet
spent, aa we were troubled with rain, heat, and moequitoes.
We were UM that pamc was plentiful. Wild cattle larRer
than buffaloes come in droves from the hills to graze in the
plain, while the rhinoceros and the elephant roam about
the plains.
"At our next stopping place, after we had settled our-
selves in an empty house, a villager came to inform us that
the house belonged to the Chief of Muang Ffing, and that
anybody that slept in it would have his head cut off. As
rain was threatening, we determined to risk the penalty,
and we were soon glad that we had done so, as the rain
poured down in torraita."
There 13 a small deer caHed trimn^, which twenty
years apo was very abundant in all the northern
provi' " ''"y are not found in the very tall grass
of tb> ttoms, but in grass about waist-high
thickly ftng the higher plains. They have their
beds in this grass by day, and graze at night. They
are lower thp.n the grass, and never leap so as to show
the body, but glide smoothly along as if swimming, dis-
covering their presence only through the parting and
waving of the grass. SometimoB yon get right npon
them before they will run.
One Saturday we got Mr. Hallett interested in some
survey or calculations not requiring the aid of an in-
t^reter, and Mr. Martin and I had our first deer-htuit
2-A AMONH THE SIAMESE AND THE lAO
We t....k six of our dephant*, and, going «»*
hour's ride or more from the city, we formed m open
o'er abreast. abo,U forty ynrdn apnrt, and m perfec^
Bilence moved forward over the plain. The h«nt«
tL BtartH hia own game. He aita on the back.
better atlll, on the neck of bin .lephant. w.th gun
c^^od, ready for a shot at the tlr«t noine or inove^
ment in the gras. We started abont a ^o^n o t^e
deer, and emptied many cartridges, but ramc back to
Zn. with no meat-much to Mr. Halletfs d.sgust^
Mftang Fang, like Chieng S^n, was rich m images
of an «L and materials. 1 never saw finer bronze
oL^ It was a favourite field from which H.amene
iXces and ..fflcials could get a supph "tberwine un^
'attainable in those days. Of course, y hare a righ
to them. Bnt when a German traveller umlortook a
wbiSe speculation in the images of »^"ddha U was
quite an..ther matter, and he goi into senous diffl-
culty with the government. • rr^^uptt loft
sion after onr retnm to Ch.engma. Mr. Hallett k ft
us for Bangkok. From his long residence m Burma
and from his close connection with the mission and
missionaries during his expedition among what he
rails the Shan States, he understood the methods and
results of missionary work better than most vis, tors
who have written upon the subject. The kmd words
Tf the dedication of his book, thongh oft«i qnoted,
may well conclude this chapter.
.. To the American Missionaries in Burma and Siam
and the Shan States I dedicate this book, as a mark
of the high esteem in which I hold the noble work the
American Baptist Mission and the American Presby^
terian Mission are accomplishing in civilixing and
Christianizing the people of Indo-Chma.
XXIII
EVANGELISTIC TBAININO
N our return from tbe surveying expedition in
the summer of 1884, we found F. B. Gould,
Esq., our first British Vice-Consul, already
established in <'hiengmai. It was an important event
for tbe country; since i British utiicial in any place is
a guarantee that at least the outward forms of law
and justice will be observed. lu one important sense,
too, it marked a new era for the mission, or, at least,
for the missionaries.
Those who have not tried can hardly imagine the pri-
vation of living eighteen years without a mail system
of any kind. Our only dependence so far was on
catching chance trading boats to and fnnn Bangkok.
These were always an uncertain quantity; in very low
water they almost ceased to travel. Some boatmen
preferred not to be responsible for the mail, not know-
ing what it might contain. In the great dty of Bang-
kok, and even in Chiengmai, it required a constant ef-
fort to keep ourselves informed of the departures of
boats. The consequence was that an absence of news
from children, frioids, and the outside world gener-
ally, for three or four months at a time, was very com-
mon. Bometimes ihe interval was as much as eight
months. Add to this the time of the long river trip,
and our news son^times would be nearly a year old
when it reached us Mr. Wilson's family and mine
255
256 AMONU TilE BlAMKSi: AND TIIK
liiiil sclidolcd oiii s('lv<>s to tlicse nuidiliolis ; l»\it to
those who hud been uccustoiued to u «luil> mail, they
mmt hare been almost unendurable.
The new Vlce-Ciai«ll came, determined by nil means
to jfet Home regular communication establislied, if it
were only a moutldy one. We were only too «{lad to
do whatever we conld to that end. It was a matter
of pride to bi.tb jiiuties that we arrangiHl at ouce for
a regular and iiiost MuceesHful seml niouthly mail over
land to Maolmeln. I furnished a reliable Chrlntian
man for chief eoii tractor, and P'lod men for carriers.
Since Mr. (lould liiid ns yet no authority from his gov-
ernment to iutur any expense, the arrangement was
wholly a private affair, with the nnderstanding that
all who availed themsdvi's of it should pay a quarterly
assessment for the maintenance of the line. But in a
short time the British government assumed the whole
expense. Mr. Qould promised to get the staff exempt
from corv6e, or compnlsi iy fr,)vernment .,ervice. He
had to use his oflBcial auth»irity for that.
The Lao government had absolutely no interest In
a nmil, whether weekly or yearly; but the Siamese
looked rather askance at havinf? in their own coun-
try a mail service over which they had no control.
It seemed to be In some way a reflection on their na-
tional pride. There is little doubt that our private
enterprise hastened the weekly government mail from
Bangkok, which was started the next year. And since
the Maulmein route is (luicker by two weeks than
the one by Hanfjkok, the Siamese povornment has of
late maintained both, the tv>o moeliug at Uah^ng, and
giving us a very creditable and regular mail service.
In the v.pring of 1884 the mission sustained a great
BVAN0BU8TIC TBAININQ 287
loss in (hp (h'jjth of rritKcss Tipa Kfsawn, Prince In-
tanon'it coDnort, whom we wciv in (lie habit of cHllinR
** the Queen." Placed as 8be was, she could not well
have avoided the making of priests' garmoits, and the
going fhroiiKh with the form of making olfcringH (o (lu!
HplritH. Hut 1 HcriouKly d<tuht whether she bad an^ ex-
pectation of laying up tliereby a store of merit fnr the
future. One thing we do i^now, that in her last sick-
nesH she (urnHl no anxiou.. Iduk to any of tlu'se things,
at a time when thoughtful IJuddhiMtH are always most
diligent In their efforts. Dr. Peoples of our mission
attended her in hrr lasi illness a<(d the case was sub-
mitted entirely to him. Mrs. McGilvary and I were
both with her the day before she died. Mrs. McGil-
vary was with her at her death, and remained to see
the body drensed for the collin. We missed her very
much as a friend, ant', the whole country missed her as
a balance-wheel for her husband.
On the arrival of the reinforcement in 1883, a Pres-
bytery was organized of the four ministers, Wilson,
Peoples, Hearst, and McGilvary. I was thee full of
the idea of a theological training-class. My experi-
ence of the accumulated power added to the mission
ary's efforts by having such assistants as Niln Inta,
Nftn Buwan. and Noi Intachak, raised in r, mind th.
question. Why not inci-ease the nninber? i., ing had
no schools, we had, of course, no body of young men
educated on Christian lines whom we might train for
the ministry; and we could not have such for years
to come. But we had in our churches mature men of
deeply religions nature, earnest students of Buddhism,
and carefully educated in all the learning of their race.
And a man so trained has many compeasations for
258 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
his lack of training in onr elementary schools. He
knows the sacred books of his own people, their
strength and their weakness. He widerstands the
thoughts, the needs, and the difficulties of a Buddh.st
enquirer, and the mode of argument by which these
difficulties are to met, as no young man of his own
race, and as no foreign teacher can do. The training
needed to make such a man an efficient preacher of the
Gospel, is training in the (Christian Scriptures, to-
gether with practical experience in evangelistic work
under efflcient direction. ^ •
I was at that time -.iving regular instruction to Noi
Intachak. one of the finest young men I have ever
known in that country, and very anxious to become a
minister.* To Nan Tft, afterwards our efficient min
ister, 1 was giving instruction less regularly, as it
was possible for him to take it. But it would have
been both easier and more profitable to teach a class
of six or eight. By qualifying such a group of young
men to work, and then working with them and through
them, I believed that my own efficiency conld be
quadrupled, or even sextnpled, as it was doubled when
1 had Nan Inta to work with.
With these thoughts and this experience impressed
on my mind, and in order that my plan, if adopted,
might have the ecclesiastical sanction of the Pres
bvterv as well as the corporate sanction of the mis-
sion I had urged the organization of the Presbytery
iust as soon as we had the minimum quorum required^
In order to give the discussion its proper outlook and
perspective, 1 noticed, also, in the paper which I read
before the ITeshytcry, the necessity of a general edu-
1 Our hopes for his future career, ala.. were cut Bbort by bit un-
timely death in tt» f oUowtsg ye»r.
E\' A N CJ 1. 1 S T I ( • T H A I N I X ( J
cation for all our Christians, and of High Schools for
both sexes; while I sketched more in detail the nature
and the methods of special instruction intended for
thf»sp in training to become evangelists and ministers.
The training proposed for this last group was in-
tended primarily to equip the most capable and most
promising individuals among the (•(•nveils for filling
well their places as lay oilicers and leaders in the
churches, and for engaging intelligently in evangelistic
work. But beyond this it was thought that it would
ultimately furnish a body of picked men fn.m wIhuu
again the best might be chosen as candidates for
further instruction leading up to the ministerial of-
fice. The course was to be flexible enough to permit
occasional attendance with i»rofit on the part of men
whose household duties or whose business would not
permit them to attend regularly. Its special feature
was actual and constant practice in evangelistic work
under the direction and suj)ervisi(tu df the Principal,
and with him as his assistants ou his tours.
In view of the poverty of the Lao generally, and in
order to make it possible for these men to maintain
their families while occupied with this training, it was
further pro[)osed that they should receive a moderate
allowance of, perhaps, eight rupees per month of actual
service, or about three dollars of our money. This
seemed not unreasonable, since in Christian lands it
is thought a wise provision to assist students in their
preparatif>n for the ministry; and since what is re-
quired to support one Kuro|)e<in missionary family,
would support half a dozen fairly educated native
ministers or ten good native evangelists.
The Presbytery took hold of the scheme with much
ardour, and at once began to oi'ganize it into shape.
260 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
but on far too large a scale, and with far too formi-
dable and too foreign apparatus. A regular " Board
of Education " was created, with rules and regulations
better suited to American conditions than to those of
the Lao chuiclios. A committee was further appointed
to examine all applicants for the course, much after
the manner of receiving candidates for the ministry
under the care of a Presbytery. Their " motives for
seeking the ministry " were to be enquired into, while
ao yet it was not at all known whether they would
desire to become ministers. The allowance in each
case -vas to be the absolute minimum which it was sup-
posed would suffice for the maintenance of the stu-
dent after he had provided all that he could himself.
Noi Intachak, for example, was allowed the maximum
of eight rupees a month, while Noi <"hai— one of the
best Buddhist scholars in the country, a young man
with a family, living ten miles away in the country-
was allowed five rupees, on the ground that he was not
very poor; while yet another was allowed but three.
After this ordeal— which was thought to be a good
test of their sincerity— the rest of the six or eight can-
didates for instruction declined to commit themselves.
None of them understood exactly what the Board of
Education was about. I myself was gi-eatly disap-
pointed at the outcome. After a week of listless study,
Noi Thai begged to he allowed to withdraw, and the
whole thing was disbanded. My hopeful private class
was killed by too much " red tape," and with it all pos-
sibility of a training-class for four years to come. I
was again set free for long tours and my favourite
evangelistic work.
I continued to teach Noi Intachak till his lamented
death, and I devoted what spare time I could to teaching
EVANGELISTIC TRAINING
2fil
the long-time wanderer, Nfin Ta, who had become our
best evangelist. There seems to have been some fatal-
ity connecltHl with all our elToits to establish a theo-
logical traiuing school. When the next attempt was
made, under Mr. Dodd's direction, with a large and in-
teresting class enthasiastically tanght, through some
cause or combination of causes— for it would be diffi-
cult to specify any singie one as alone determinative —
it was allowed to slip out of oar hands. Possibly a
leading cause in this case was the same that was
operative in the other. At a time when the mission
was pressing the idea of self-support to its breaking
point, an allowance probably too scanty was offered
in the evangelistic work to the men who had been
trained for it. The whole question in the Lao field,
as it doubtless is in others, is a difficult one. As wages
in other departmmts rise, and the demand for com-
petent mc becomes more pressing both in govern-
mental and in private business, the question will be-
come more difftcnlt still. While on the one hand there
is the danger of making a mercenary ministry, on the
other baud we must romeinber that, the world over,
educated labour now costs more, but is not, therefore,
necessarily dearer. The same penny-wise and ponnd-
foolish policy has lost us the strength of some of the
best men in our church, our schools, our hospitals, and
our printing-press, because more lucrative positions
are offered elsewhere. But we must remember first of
all that theological schools, like all others, are not
made, but grow ; and, second, that the law of competi-
tion prevails here, too, as well as elsewhere. It is
easy to say that it ought not to do so, as between the
ministry and other professions, or between the mis-
sionary work and other more lucrative callings. But
202 AMONG TIIK SIAMESE AND THE I.AO
to a certnin extent the same law does hold, aud it is
a fact to be reckoned with.
Tn May, 1881, 11. K. H. Prince Kronunani(.n liijit, a
brotlier of the Kiu<,' of Siani, arrived aud took up his
residence in Cbiengniai— probably to give prestige to
the High Commissioner, and possibly to smooth the
road of the new Hritish Consul. It was an open secret
that the Prince of Chieugmai could see no need what-
ever for a British Resident, and at times he was not
slow to make his views known. For a while the rela-
tions betwwn the two were somewhat strained. Yet it
was of the utmost importance that the relations be-
tween England and Siam should remain cordial. At
the same time it was a part of the plan of Siam, since
fully carried out, to assume complete control of the
government in the northern states. What was of more
special interest to us was. as we shall see, not only
that Prince Hijit was per onally friendly, but that he
brought with him substantial evidence of the good will
of His Majesty and of the Sijiraese government toward
our work.
It was in this year that our fii-st attempt at tstab-
lishing a mountain sanitarium was made. It was de-
signed to furnish a refuge from the great heat of the
l.lain. to lK> a retreat for invalids, and a place where
new missionaries might more safely become ac-
climatized, and still be studying the language. Bnt as
a matter of fact, new missionaries are put to work so
promptly that it is jil.out as hard for them to with-
draw from the battle as it is for the older ones. Since
we kept no watchman on the premises, the sanitarium
was afterwards burncfl down possibly by forest tires.
Later a better and uore convenient situation was found
E V AN( ; 1 : 1. 1 ST F C TH A I \ I N G
nearer the city, so near that a man can ride up in the
evening, spend the night there with his family, and re-
turn in the morning to his worlc for the day. It is in
a dciiglitful situation l»f'sido :i cool brook, but is too
low lor the best results ua a health resort.
At the Annual Mcotinj^ in Deteiiiber, the importance
of opening a new station in Lakawn was discussed.
The baptigm of the oflBcer from tliat city, and the
organization of a church there, have already been
mentioned. Tlio ofTicor was conslinif in his appeals
for the establishment of a station ihere, with a mis-
sionary in residence. Although Mr, Wilson was soon
to start with his family for the United States on a fur-
lough, there would still be left in Chiengiiiai — if I were
sent +0 Lakawn — two ministers and two physicians,
even u these were but three men in all. Besides, there
were beginning to be some good native assistants in
Chiengmai. No one had expressed a desire to open a
new station, and no one had been sounded in regard
to the matter. So I determined to make now the visit
to Liikjiwn wiiich I bad iilauned for the previous fall,
but had been unable to accomplish. My wife and our
little son Norwood were to accompany me. When our
prei)arations were well advanced, what was our delight
to find that Dr. and Mrs. Peoples wished to accompany
us, if they could obtain elephants. When t, is was
mentioned to Prince Bijit, he not only volunteered the
elephants, but informed us that he had authority from
His Majesty to see that we had a lot for our station
there, and, furthermore, that, in passing through
Lakawn, be had already secured for us one of the most
desirable lots in the place. In additi >n to this. His
Majesty had sent by him two thousand rupees as a con-
264 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tribntion toward the new station and a hospital. Who
could fail to see that the guiding band of the Lord was
in it! Before this I had written to our United States
Consul to pet permission to secure a lot there, but had
never once thought of a contribution, much less of one
so liberal. Mrs. McGilvary thus reports oar trip in
a letter to our daughter :
" Lakawn, January 30th, 1885. We reached Lampiin on
Friday. I curtained oflF one end of the sala just north of
the city, and Mrs. Peoples did the same at the other end,
learing the space between and the veranda for callers.
There we spent the Sabbath. Your father preached twice
to very attentire audiences. We were impressed with the
favourable prospect for mission work, and hope to make a
longer visit to the place soon. We left on Monday, and
reached this place on Thursday noon, and lodged in a public
sili just oppos-ite the beautiful lot which the Prince has
given us for a station. It is in a fine site, one of the best
in the city. We called on the Chief this morning, and all
seemed pleased at the prospect of having a mission station
here. It is not yet settled who is to open it. We are willing
to come, and 8o are Dr. and Mrs. Peoples.*'
As may well be imagined, we returned to Chiengmai
with grateful hearts for the many providfluces that
had favoured us. The new station was assured. We
had not then thought of keeping two physicians for
Chiengmai. Dr. Cheek had charge of the medical
work. Dr. Peoples, naturally, preferred a tield where
he would have ample scope both for his medical pro-
fession and for the itinerating work of which he was
equally fond. His double profession and other quali-
fications fitted him as no one else could be fitted
for opening the new station. On my wife's account I
wao very willing to yield him the pleasure — for such
EVANGELISTIC TRAININO
205
to me it has always been — of breaking uew ground.
Mrs. McGiWary bad already had the labour and self-
denial of ()|)<>ning two stations, one of which was a new
mission. The importance of Lakawn as tlie next sta-
tion could not be challenged. Dr. and Mrs. Peoples
themselves were pleased with the place and the pros-
pect of the new tield. So the^ wei-c unanimously ap-
pointed and set apart to the new and important work.
XXIV
STRUGGLE WITH THE POWERS OP DABKNEafcJ
THE belief iu witchcraft was still prevalent every-
where, and this year brought ii» stiikiui,' il
lustrations nf its cruel iiower. An elderly man
with his wife and family, living iu tme of the uutlying
villages, was accused of witchcraft. The pair of ele-
phants which he owned and used had belonfjed to a
man suspected of liarbonring a malicious spirit; and it
was thought that the denum had followed these ele-
phants into the family of their new master. The fam-
ily was promptly ostracized; but by driviu},' otf her
husband with his elephants, the wife might avoid ex-
pulsion, and might save for herself and her daughters
the comfortable home. I endeavoured in vain to pre-
vent this outcouu'. " I am much inore afraid of the
spirits," said the wife, "than of be! -s and tigers."
The husband could no longer face the universal odium
which he encountered, and si> was driven forth. But
the sjiirits s('rv<'d the old man a good turn— they
drove him into the Christian religion, which he lives to
adorr and they gave him two good elephants. The
f:imil> afterwards applied for one <.f them. As a mat-
ter of tHjuity he gave up one, and lived comfortably
with a Christian son on the proceeds of the sale of
the other.
Then there was a great epidemic of fever in Ban I'en
in the neighbouring province of LarapQn. Few homes
260
were left without sud lieurtH uud vacant places through
the death of one or more uieinberg. The destroyer
must b< 80Die demop which had taken up its abode in a
Imtiian fuiliitatioii, a; I waH pivyiiif,' on tlic iiiliahitanfs
of the village. The family of oue of the most pro8-
perons men in the village was finally selected m the one
which must l»e the abode of the destroyer. A.s they
could hardly decide in whicli partinilar MicnilK-r of it
the demon resided, they regarded ali with equal hhs-
picion, and proceeded to wreali their vengeance to the
Htt(M'most upon them all.
First, accord'ug to the usual custom, auonymous let-
tew were dropped at the gate, warning the family to
flee, or dire would be the consequences. When threats
failed, armed with an order from the court, the whole
Tillage appeared on the scene and compelled the fam-
ily to flee for their lives. No sooner were they ont
of the way than their two large (cak dwelling-hottws,
with rice-bins, outhouses, etc., were torn down and scat-
tered piecemeal over the lot. Not even a tree or shrub
was left on the place. To gain a breathing-spell, the
family moved info a bamboo shed iiaslilv extemporized
on the banks of the Jle Ting, some two miles distant
from what had been their home. By some accident
lh"\ were directed to our mission. They had learned
that the King's edict protected tlie (Mirisf i.ins, and,
above all, that the Christian religion protected them
from all fear of evil spirits. And so they came to see
if it were tme, and if there were any refuge for
them.
Whatever was to be done for them in the way of
earthly succor, must evidently be done quickly. Their
neighbours in their temporary refuge would doubtless
soon drive them away again. At the earnest entreaty
268 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
of the man I took one of tlu- . hi. is. im.! went d.iwn to
l.H.k int.. «h.. .ns.' f..r ...vsolf. it WUH heurtrendmg.
Wliutfver they hiul Utu iible t.. Huutih from the wreck
of a well-to-do home-bedn, bedding, furniture, kit.luii
uteuHil«— was IicuikmI up in a pile tl.al .ovor.'.! I lie
wlu.h' ll.K.r space ..f Hu'ir shack. The great giaud-
Ui..ther, helpk'HH in her d..tage, and the little children,
were lying here and there wherever a siu.K.lher spot
could be foun.l. Their . as.' s.iMiie.l aliiu.st hopeless
as far m human aid was oucerued. Nan Chaiwana
had hiuiBclf api)ealed for aid both to the court and to
the governor, aud had been told that th. re was nothing
they could do for hiui. The court was c.immitteU
againit him. The goveruur, however, was personally
friendly to nn, and had shown no 111 will towards the
man. It was barely possible tliat something might
be accomplished there. We all had worship together
amid the confusion of their hut— the first Christian
service they had ever attended. They assured us .)f
their joyful ic.eptan.v .tf the tiospel, and pl"dged
obeuienee to all its teachings. We promised to do
whatever we could in their behalf, and returned home.
Ne.\ V Mr. Martin and I went down to Lampun
to .all the govorn.)r. lie was not at home, but in
the ricetlelds several miles out in the country. We fol-
lowed him there. He received us kindly, i.ut said,
"Were I to make pro.laniatiou to iMotect that family,
it would be impossible lu enforce il. Nearly every-
body in that neighbourhood believes that the bodies
or ashes of fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, or chil
dren are in that grav.nar.l, si ur tiiere by the demon in
that family. If you can .1. vise s.)me plan to protect
them, you are welcome to try it ; but if they return
to that village, I cannot be itsponsible for the results."
HTRlIOdLK WITH P<>\\ KRS OF DARKNESS 2ti9
Wlu'ii told tliMf tliry hiid now rrnoiiiK ctl flic Hpiritn,
and put tbetUMi'lvcH under the (iiTut Spirit, be naid,
That ia all verj well, bat bow am I to eoDTince tbe
othfTH tlint Ihcji iiiv snff?" We Hun l>of^ed that he
would give the pluce over to its. We wanted a place
for preacbinf;. Wc would put up one of tbe bouses
and estahllsli n Christ Ian fiinii'y in it, with medicine to
cure their fi'vcrs. I would overHoe it, hut would nhk
tbe family to help in tbe worlt. To this be readily
consented. We trusted his promise, and we returned
onoourappil.
A few eveninpR later 1 arrivod on the scene with our
elder and nonie other ChriNtianN, and pitched tcut at
the edge of tbe ricefleld, a hundred yards from tbe
deserted lot, to enpape in a contest with the destroying
demon. It was, moreover, a crucial contest as be-
tween Christianity and demonism. Our whole future
work in that province, and, to a large extent, through-
out the land, dciK'rulcd on the result. Soon curiosity
brought to our tent the bead man and u large num-
ber of the villagers. We spmt the evening in preach*
inp to them. When asked what we proposed to do
with the situation, we explained that we had come
to take possession of the bouse and lot— the governor
had given it over to tbe mission for a station. It
was now the i)roperty of the Christians, over whom the
spirits bad no power. It was to be dedicated to tbe
Lord's work, and we even asked their aid.
Next morning we began work, bringing in some of
I,' e men of the outcast fai.iil.v to assist in identifving
and feas.senibling the scattered timbers of the bouse.
With much difficulty bone was joined to bone, and tim-
ber to timber. Tn a few day« sonic of the villagers of-
fered to be hired to help. One or women of the
270 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
family tame <nor to cook for the workmen. Before
long one house was set up, roofed, and floored ; where-
upon we moved up into it, iind invited tl\f neighbours
to attend its dedication that cvcuiug. The evening was
8pent in song and prayer and i raise. Many came up
into the house. More listened from the ground below.
We had given quinine to the fever patients, who were
glad to get well by the help of Christian medicine.
Meanwhile the epidemic subsided, and the worst fears
of the peojile were allayed.
When it became necessary for me to return to Chieng-
raai, I left the elder to furnish moral support to the
poor outcasts, who, little by little, came back to their
home, and iK^ anie the Thristian fanii'y which we had
promised to establish there. To save the land from
being utterly lost to him, Nan Chaiwana had mort-
gaged it lo one of the princes for the trifling sum of
one hundred rupees. Not trusting to the prince's un-
selfishness, I took Nan Chaiwana's own money, paid the
mortgage, and with some regret the prince released the
property to me. Tims was it all restored to the fam-
ily. Mr. Martin and I visited the station as often as
we could. It became an interesting centre for our
work, and ultimately grew into the Bethel church.
While I was engaged in this work, a strange thing
was doing on the other side of the M« Ping. One day
a man came in from the " I'.ig Tamarind Tree Village "
t(, tell us tliat his wlmlc village had become Christians,
and were building a chapel. When it was finished, he
would invite us to come down and indoctrinate the
people in llic teachings of our religion. This was some-
thing new, and, of course, most interesting. In due
time the man came to Ghiengmai to inform U8 that
STRUGGLE WITH POWERS OF DARKNESS 271
the chapel was finished, and we were invited to go
down, take possession, dedicate it, and teach the
people.
On the following Friday, Mr. Martin and I took
boat and went to the village landing, w^here we sep-
arated, be gtiiiiR east to receive aud baptize tbc con-
verts in the *' uew boiiie of tbe teacbeis," as the bouse
at Ban Pto long was called; and I to dedicate the
new chaiH'l at tlie " P.ig Taiiiariud Tree Village." I
found the cha[iel there all ri<,'bt, aiu' tbe whole villaf^e
assembled to velcoiue tbe teacher; and, apparently,
like the audience that Peter found in the house of
Cornelius, ready " to hear words whereby they might
be saved." The chapel was built mostly of bamboo,
but so new and neat that I complimented the villagers,
and expressed my great delight. After our reception,
I invited them up into the chapel for worship, and be-
gan by announcing a hymn, aud inviting them to join
in learning to sing it ; expecting, with my assistant and
other Christians who had accompanied me, to spend
the tin)e in teaching them what Christianity is; pre-
suming that their reception of it was a foregone con-
clusion.
But .somehow things did no< seiMii to run smoothly.
I was conscious of being in a wrong atmosphere. The
leader of the movement seemed ill at ease. None en-
tered in with the accustomed zeal of new converts. My
assistant noticetl the same thinfr, and whispered in
my ear that something was wrong. They were whis-
pering to him, "Where is the money?" "What
money? " " Why. the fifty or one hundred rupees that
we were told would surely be forthcoming to every
family that aided in the building, and that entered
the new religion. The foreigners are rich, and, of
2'2 AMONd THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
course, will I)*' tU'ligbted to distribute money freely."
The leader, of course, expected the lion's share. It
had all been a mere business venture uii his part —or,
rather, a swindle! This was on Satnnlay. On Mon-
day morning Mr. Martin and I met at the boat ac-
cording to agreement, he to report a good day and
the baptism of ten adults ahmg with as many children,
and the reception of a number of catechumens; and I
to confess how I had been sdhl.
In the sun ler of 1S85 a most interesting work was
started in some villages to the southwest of the city.
Onr indefatigable Nan Ta had visited that region, and
many had itrofessed iheir faith. Mr. Martin and I
both responded to the call, and made a number of visits
there. Two chapels wore built by the enquirers, one
at Lawng Kum, and one at Chrms Kam. 1 (piote the
following account of this work from the New York Ob-
server:
" June 9th, 1885.— I have juat returned from the villages
referred to in my last letter. I found twenty-two families
of profes:,eJ belicviT^ at Lawiig Iv.im Chapel, which with
the aid of a few dollars f'-Jiu cl-^ewhere they had suc-
ceeded in building. Among them are at least six persona
who give good evidence of a change oi heart, and the rest
are interesting enquirers. Ten miles from there, at ChBng
Kam, I visited by invitation auotla r e mil any who had re-
nounced Buddhism, and who call themselves Christian.^. On
arriving there a roll of thirty-five familir^ was handed me.
Most of tlu'iu had atteipi,-<l worship at times in tho chapel at
Chioiiginai, and a few of tbeiii art.- no doubt trur Christians.
Here also we secured a native house for a el -tin l. They
contributed a part of the small sum needed, wh.I ? ni this
case, as in the other, their contribution was supplemented
from the monthly contributions uf the church in Ohicngmui,
Deputations have been seut also from places still further
STRUGGLE WITH POWERS OP DARKNESS 273
away, representing in one ciiso twenty, and in another case
twelre families enrolled by themselres, with others only
waiting for the arrival of a teacher.
" It is probably premature to predict what will be the
result of ail this. The simultaneousness of the movement in
villages thirty or forty milra apart is remarkable. It shows
a longing for something they have not. To turn this
awakening to most account, we need more help, both native
and foreign. Mr. Martin enters into the work with all his
zeal, and has contributed no little toward keeping up the
interest."
Our expectations in regard to the work at Lawng
Kum were aisappointed mainly by removals of fam-
ilies to other places. The chapel in f'hang Kam was
burned down bv incendiaries, but was soon replaced,
and the village has continued to be one of our most
importfJt out-stations. Its people have recently
[1010] built a new and large chapel, and will soon
be organized into a church. One zealous man in
Ac led first bis own family and then his neighbours
into the faith, till they, too, have now a chapel built
of teak, with a band of faithful workers to worship
in it.
Onr first visits to these new places wore intensely in-
teresting. It seemed as if the Gospel would be em-
braced by whole villages. But the burning of the
chapel tells a tale of a strong adverse inflaence. Op-
position usually drives off the timid and the merely
curious. The lines, then, are sharply drawn, and the
Christian society really finds itself.
During the last week of the year I spent a few days
at the village of Me Dawk Deng to hold a copimunio?
service there, and incidentally to give my family and
the teachers of the Girls' School a mnch-needed outing.
It was at the hei^t of the rice-harvest, and, one even-
274 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
iug, we all greatly enjoyed the sight of ii regular rice-
threshing " bee " at the farm of one of our elders. The
"bee" Is always at niplit. The bundles f>f rice from
the harvest field are piled up so as to form a wall five
feet high around a space of some twenty-five feet square,
with an opening for entrance at one corner. In the
centre of this square is a hctrizontal frame of bamboo
poles, against which the bundles of rice-heads are
forcibly struck. The grain falls to the ground below,
and the straw is tossed outside. In those days the
wht>le plain at rice-harvest was lighted up by bonfires
of the burning straw — a glorious sight as I have
watched it from Doi SutSp.
We pitched our tent neai' by to enjoy the scene. The
men and boys do the threshing, while the women and
girls do the cooking for the feast with which the work
ends. The vi!la<;e maidens are always on hand to en-
courage their beaux in their work by passing to them
water or beiel-nut, and to serve the viands at the feast.
It reminded me much of the husking bees I had se&i
as a lad in the South seventy years ago. How near of
kin is all the world !
We had a delightful communion service on the Sab-
bath. Seven adults and six children weit; baptized.
On Mond 'Porninp: we returned home refreshed and
better prepared for the work before us.
The year had I)een one of marked progress. The
Oirls' School had been strengtiiened by the arrival of
Miss Lizzie Westervelt. The new station at Lakawn
bad been opened, and Dr. and Mrs. Peoples had been
installed there. More new work had been oj)ened in
the neighbourhood of Chiengmai and Lampun than in
any one year of the history of the mission. One hnn-
MARKET SCENE IN CHIENUMAI
IN THE HARVEST KIEI.U
STRUGGLE WITH POWERS OP DARKNESS 275
dred and two adults were added to the commnnion roll,
and about as manv children were baptized. Our new
"witchcraft-house" at Ban Ten, with its hospitable
family, afforded a comfortable prophet's chamber for
the missionaries and a chai^l for worship. The Bethel
church was afterwards organized in it. That family
became highly respected, and has fomished some of
the most inflnential members of our churdi. The work
in Nawng Fan, seven miles south of Chiengmai— Nun
Inta's village— had steadily grown. It still continues
to be one of our best out-stations, and will, during the
present year [1910] be organized into a church.
XXV
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED
THE year 188(» opened auspiciously. But Mr.
Martin had brought malaria in his system from
his old lioine; iiiid llie f-fio country is a better
j)lace for contractiug the infection tlian for eradicat-
ing it. He worlved indefatifjatdy, but Reldom with a
blood-temperature down to the normal. In .lannary
he accepted an invitation from Mr. Could, the British
Vite-ConBul, to accompany him on a tour of inspection
through the northern provinces, hoping that the change
might prove lieneficial. It afforded, moreover, oppor-
tunity for some missionary work in places seldom or
never visited. He was the first to visit the MQsfl vil-
lages high up among the mountains. He baptized a
few converts in < 'hieng Sen, and reported an interest
there that should be followed up.
About this same time KrQ Nan Ta— for such, though
not yet ordained, I shall in future call him— returned
from Chieng Kai with n most encnnraging report of
developments there. Later a deputation of seven men,
with T5o Tepasing as their leader, came to us from the
village of M6 Kawn in the (Miicng Kai province,
earnestly entreating a visit from the missionary. In
their number was Pii King from Chieng Rai, who had
been a notorious bandit, robber, and murderer. He
hac' now submitted to the government, and was given
a place as public executioner and as doer of other jobs
from which only a lawless man would not shrink. Be-
276
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED 277
fore meeting Krfi Niln Tft, he had gone so deep in sin
that no liope was left him, and he JKHainc liardened in
despair. Unl liis oonscionro was ill at ease. Hearing
ruiuuurs of the ("Uristiau religion, he determined that
if it could give him hope of pardon, he would seek it
at any cost. He and his wife walked one huudml and
ten miles to see if it wet-e really' true that Jesus eould
save even him. Our good friend the governor enconr-
aged his coming, and said, " If the (Miristian reli^jion
can make a k«'<»«1 ""' l*^'""' '
no moi-e doubts of its truth and power. ' And we have
no donbt that it did that very thing.
lu a few days Kru Nan Ta and I returned with the
party. Elder A i Tfl of Chieng Bai,» with his family,
accompanied us. We thus had quite a little congre-
gation to worship nightly about the camp-flre, and
every one of ''>e party was either a CJhristian or an en-
quirer. T' 'i.s my third trip to the north, and the
first of the nual trips that have made that road so
familiar to me.
The little colony of (Miristians at Wieng Pa Pao was
prospering. One of them was the man whom his wife
had driven off, elephan+s and all, for witchcraft. NSn
Ta reported the governor of the place as a believer.
He had ceased to make offerings in temples, and he
ridiculed the idols. He received ns most hospitably,
and desired to nave a missitm station there. After-
wards, however, through policy and the influence of
a Burmese son in law, he resumed his old worship;
though to the last in his heart of hearts, I think, he
believed our teachinfjs to he true. In the case of sub-
ordinate otti. ials, the final step of joining the church
is terribly hard to take.
» Afterwards Praya Pakdl.
278 AMONG THE 8IAME8E AND THE hkO
At Ball Toi, " Grandma " Tan had been praying day
and uif,'lit for our eniiiinp;. She lived some distanee
away from the road, and feared that we miglil pass
her by. She was overjoyed to see ns, and we had to
check the hoinafje she offered us. The poor woman was
sadly in need of support. She was the only Christian
in the place, and was surrounded by hostile neighbours
who absolutely rebelled against her establishing herself
in llie place. Iler family had renounced the spirits,
and therefore her "patriarch," to whom she could
rightly look for protection, became her chief accuser.
He went to the governor of Chieng RSi for an order
forbiddinj; her to settle there. Hut he had his thirty-
mile walk for his trouble. The governor told him that
the family was not to be interfered with. How could
he forbid those whom the King's edict allowed?
Having failed with the governor, they tried to draw
away the daughter in law. But she said she would
stick by her husband and his family. Their relifjion
should be her religion, and their (lod should be her
God. The villagers then notitied the family that it
would be held responsible for the value of any buffalo
or elephant that might die in the village. The theory
was that th" demons would take vengeance on the vil-
lage for allowing the trespass of an enemy on their
domains. But all their efforts to shake the poor
woman's faith were futile.
At Mfi Kawn village, from which the delegation had
chiefly come, of course we were received with a warm
welconw. On the receut visit of Nun Ta. when the
leading supporters of the temple became Christians,
thf less religious families also deserted it. I even saw
oxen sheltered from the rain under its roof. A dub
footed man, Noi Taliya by name, a good scholar in
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIKS PLANTED 279
Ngio, UuruiCHo, and Lao, had been the life o[ the tem-
ple. And It is the earnest Baddhist that makw the
earnest Christian. His st.n first lu ard the (luspel. and,
((.iiiing h.>m<', explained it to h\s fjitlier. Calling his
fiUiiily together, the fatiier Haid to tlieui, "There are
the spirit ahrinea. Any one may have them who
>visli. s to continue tlieir worsliip." N'» one making a
l.id for them, a bonfire was made, and the once valued
treaHurcB all vanished in smoke. When he went to
Chieng Rfti to announce his conversion to the kov
cmor and to the Cparat, he said that he prayed all
the way that he might answer their questions dis-
creetly and wisely. He did not know that the gov
ernor had no more coDfulence in bis deserted idols
and spirits than he himself had.
On the evening of our arrival, the largest honse in
the Tillage was filled to overflowing till late in the
night. liefore Sunday the people La(' extemporized a
chapel which afterwards became the loun ition of the
M6 Kawn chnrch. Two Sundays were spent in teach-
ing these people before we moved on to Chicng Rrd,
leavinR the new disciples under the oversight of Noi
Taliya.
On reaching Chieng Rai we were invited by the gov-
ernor to take up our (luarters in his old residence,
which we did. It was a better house than his present
one, but there had been two deaths in it, and it was
pronounced unlucky. He knew we were not afraid
of ill luck. On the contrary, it was very good luck
that we got it, for the rains were now falling daily.
The governor and Nan Tft were near relatives and very
intimate friends withal. His interest in us was as
teachers of the only religion that ever afforded him a
rav of hope. But on this trip Pu King, the reformed
280 AMONd THi: SIAMKSK AN1» TMK LAO
bandit, and his family-, were I lie teiitre of our interest
there. And it wan not long before he, too, like Saul
of Tarsus, became a striking illnstration of the grace
of
A few liours beyond Chieng Rftl on the road to Cliiens
Sto, was the home of ki TO. His was the first ChrlH-
tian family in the province. II'' Iiiid imilt in i>iirt
that '\ uiinlit furuif h a gnesl chaiulier for lite iui»«ion
ary on his visits, iuid in puit that it might serve as
a chapel for worship— the larpsi Imnse in all that
neij;hln)urhi»od. Wlicn we iiiriv(<i. lie lind alrciKly va-
cated it foi us, and had moved his family down into a
shed. A number of families had begun to attend wor-
ship, and to keep the Sal)l)ath; but wore fritililened
away by that ridiculously stale story that missionaries
were making <,'hristians in order to carry them off In
their ships to feed the Yaks! Htrange that such a
palpable absurdity should deceive any one; yet we
have known whole villages to be frighlentd away by it.
At Chieng 8*n, in the home of Nfta Buwan, we were
at once aware of U-ing in a christian atmosphere— in
a consecrated (Jliristian family. That family was a
city set upon a hill— a leaven in the new city and
province. It alone had given Christianity a good
name. The governnr was free to say that if t'l.ris
tlanity made such men as Nun Suwau, he would like
to see the whole < mntry Christian. The influence of
the Girls' School iii f-hienpimai vas strongly reflected in
his daughter, Kul Keo. S'h- lan-ilif no regular sc'iool
other than her Sunday School; but froni time to time
during the week she taught the neighbours. Young
men who began by trying to ridicule licr out of licr
religion, now treated her with the greatest respect.
We were lold that rude young fellows singing vulgar-
CBBI8TIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED 281
RongB would lower their roicm whm putising by the
house.
\\ v t ioHscd the river In a small bout to Hiwnd a few
duyH iu tuuiliiug four new families of Chrlatiana on
the eaBt<>m aide. One of tte men wai Tflo Knt, the
vil'.ijic onifcr. aud aiuttlitT was son, N'oi Thai. The
iutU'i' iK'came un iutlueutiul ruling elder, uud, like Nuu
Huwan, one of the pillnm of the church.
From Chieag S«"n \vf crossed the broad iirairic like
plain westward t(. Han Tain. The oBlcer of the village
was Seu Yu Wichui- lueutioned in the early part of
this narrative aa the very flrat believer in Chlengmal.
The journey was one of the worst for tdephants that
I ever made. Heavy raiUH had soalied the ground so
that at every step it seemed almost imp<M8ibIe for
them to pall their hujje feet out »)f their tracks. The
Sell lived only a quarter of a mile from a remarkable
feature of the ujouutaiu ridge. The Tam, the
largest river in the plain, flows bodily ont from under
the monutain, uiueh as does one of the sources of the
Me I'iuK at Chieug Duo.
It was a great pleasure to spend a Sunday with our
now venerable Christian and his family. It was a fam
ily of oflicers. his three sons all being either •)f the
grade of Tao or of rifin— which shows the esteem in
which the family was held. But, unfortunately, their
oflinal position made it more difficult for the sons to
follow the example of their father.
On Sunday night the rain came down in torrents,
remindlrg us that it was better for us to be at home.
We started homeward early the riext morning. Our
route skirted the beautiful mountain range, crossing
brooks and the larger streams of the M6 Tam and the
M6 Chan. Already the road bad become almost im-
282 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
passable excopt for elephants and natives unencuL^-
bered with shoes or trousers.
We have already spoken of the great mortality in-
curred in the attempt to people these new Lao states.
Occasionally the straggling remnant of a family might
be seen returning. One poor little boy awakened my
deepest sympathy. All of his family had died except
himself and his brother, a monk, who were trying to
save themselves by flight back to their old home in
the province of Chiengmai. After I passed them I
began to wonder whether the pale, weary faced, and ex-
hausted travellers would ever reach the rest they
sought. Then I began io think that here I was enact-
ing again the old tale of the priest and the Levite
who passed by on the other side. .\t last I could stand
it no longer. I stopped and waited for them to come
up. I offered the pitifnl little skeleton of a boy a seat
with me on the back of the elephant. At first he some-
what distrusted my motive, wondering what I wanted
to do with him; but he was too weary to refuse. When
he revived, he proved to be a veritable little chatterbox,
and good company. I kept him nearly a week, till we
entered the Chienguua plain at Doi Saket. Only four
years ago, eleven children out of five Christian fam-
ilies who had settled in Wieng Pa PSo, died during
the first year.
Keturning through Chieng Rai, we revisited the new
families of Christians in that province. In the city the
governor's wife asked us to have worship in their
new house, to which they reverently listened. When
we ended she said, " Why, they pray for everybody ! "
pa King, the ezecotioner, was holding on with a deatb-
grip to Ihe hope of salvation for the chief of sinners.
The case of the apostle himself, and of the penitent
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED 283
tliiof, yrciUly eucouraged Liiii. Nfm Tfi also was
greatly rejoiced that his brother Sfin Kat became a
believiT ou this ti»nr.
On my return J f< n:! Mr. Martin but little, if at all,
improved, by h' 'n[». Ilo wf's so thoroughly discour-
aged that he f< 't that hv ^■^ i not face another liot
season. He rei • i !f] v.il'.i i: ; till the end of the rainy
season, and thtii, ..itL '^i'; family, left Siam for the
United States. I never had felt so thoroughly crushed
as I was at his departni-e. Durinp: three whole years
we had lived in the same house, and worked together
hand in hand in the evangelist)? work, of which he was
very fond.
Dr. (Mieek already had severed his official connection
with the mission, and had gone into business of his
own. But he kindly gave his professional service to
the missionaries, and was ready to perform pressing
snigical operations for the natives who came to the
hospital.
1 have often wondered whether all foreign missions
have as many and as rapid alternations of sunshine
and shadow, as the L^o misgion. Our medical work
was once more at a standstill; and by the departure
of Mr. Martin, the evangelistic work again was crip-
pled. But at Hong Kong Mr. Martin met He v. and
Mrs. D. O. Collins, Dr. and Mrs. A. M. Cary, and Rev.
W. t)odd, on their way out for the Lao missior with
Kev. W. < Met 'lure for Lower Siam. Mrs. Cary had
become . ) exhausted by continual sea-sickness during
the whole voyage, that, on her arrival in Bangkok,
many thonght her unable to emlure the long river
trip of six or seven weeks. Mr. McClure offti-ed to
exchange fields with the Carys; but Mrs. Cary, with
284 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
true pluck, said that she had been appointed to the
Lao mission, and to the Lao slie would go. Bat, alas!
it was to be otherwise. She became worse soon after
leaving Bangkok. On Sunday, January Itith, 1887, a
mile above Rahtog, she became unconscious, and
shortly after gently passed into her everlasting rest.
It was still a month's journey to their destination.
There was nothing to be done but to lay the body
to rest in the grounds of a monastery. Who can por-
tray that parting scone, or adequately sympathize with
the bereaved husband and sister (Mrs. Collins), or with
the other members of the party, as they performed the
last sad officii, and then resumed their lonesome jour-
ney !
When the party reached Chiengmai on the 17th of
February, they found there only the McGilvarys, Miss
Griflan, and Miss Westervelt. Miss Cole had goue to
Hangkok. I'.ut the Girls' School was nourishing un-
der the direction of the two ladies last mentioned.
Former pupils of the school were th«i doing good
service in three different i- ivinces as teachers. But
the arrival of the new forces made possible for the first
time a Boys' High School. Circumstances now were
much more favourable than they were when Mr. Wil-
son made the attempt in the earlier days of the mis-
sion. We now had Christian patrons, and there was a
growing desire in the land for education. Buddhist
pupils were willing and anxious to attend our school.
Mr. Collins preferred the educational work. As soon
as he acquired the language suflBciently well, he was
put in charge of the school for boys, and it was soon
crowded with jnipils
Mr. Dodd's preference was along the line of a Train-
ing School for Christian workers. Happily, the taste
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED 285
and preference of both these men were along the linos
of greatest need. Meanwhile Mr. Dodd entered into
the evangelistic work also with a zeal that has never
abated. As newcomers see things with different eyes,
it is always interesting to get their first impressions*
Mr. Dodd's first experience is thus given in a letter
to the Board of Jane 9th, 1887:
"On Friday, June 3d, Rev. D. McQilvary of the LBo mis-
sion left Chiengmai by boat for a tour soutlnvard, taking
attendants and all necessary equipments, accompanied by a
raw recruit, and three efficient native helpers. We arrired
at our first station about the middle of the afternoon, and
before bed-time held religious conversation with as many en-
quirers as time r^ould permit. Our audience chamber was
the house of one of our newly-receired members. Our ' out-
ward and ordinary means' of attracting an audience was a
watch, two mariner's compasses, a magnifying glass, a stereo-
scope with an assortment of views, and a violin. The raw
recruit played the violin, and tiius called the audience to-
gether. We used both the other attractions to hold them
and to gain their confidence and interest; and afterwards
Dr. McGilvary easily and naturally drew them into rrlifrious
conversation. Soon the conversation became a monologue
of instruction in the religion of the great God. The violin
was no longer needed to arouse or sustain an interest
Every day, and late into the evening, the Doctor and the
three assistants conversed; sometimes to quite an audience
sometimes to individual enquirers. *
"The religious attitude of the people was a revelation to
the newly-arrived missionary, and doubtless would be to
most of God's people in the United States. Nearly all of
these people had heard of the TeliKion of the great God'
but knew nothing about it, since the district had never be-
fore been visited by a missionary. ... But their recep-
S'^iL-T" "/"'^"""s- ■ • • Without exception these
Buddhists confessed at the outset, or were soon brought
to concede, the ■mmeasurable superiority of Christianity
Many said. ' It is of no use to argue. Your books tell tb^
28G AM(»N(; TUE SIAMIv^K AM) TlIK LAO
beginnings of things; ours do imt.' On nno occasion when
Dr. McGilvary had finished read i tip and cxiilainitifr thf first
chapter ■>f dencsis, one of his auditors rcmarktM] to liis fel-
lows, ' There is more real information on that one page than
in all Buddha's writings.' The sense of sin is universal, so
too is the insiiiJicicncy of the works of tip -it. Many snd
souls confessed that they had long been dreading the peiiaity
for sins for which they feared that ' merit-making ' could not
atone.
" The results wo cannot measure. We were absent two
weeks. Religious service or conversations were lield in inoro
than twenty different homes, and in some of these several
times. Audiences varied from a sinfjlo emiuirer to fifty.
Thus hundreds heard the gospel for tlie first time. Many
who seemed aborc the suspicion of hypocrisy professed to
believe and accept what they heard. . . . One principal
reason for this tour just now, was to baptize in his own
home and among his subjects the chief officer of the district.
Himself, his wife, and his whole family were baptized — a
most interesting household. The alil'Ot ot one village mon-
astery professes to accept Christianity. For some time he
has been sending his parishioners, including his own sister,
for instruction. There is another district officer of the
same rank as our newly-baptized convert, a constant visitor
and deeply interested. This is a specimen Umr, neither bet-
ter nor worse than th'^ average taken these days. For the
last two years, although most of the time there have been
but two ordained missionaries in the field, over ninety as-
ee~-ions have been made to the First Church." — Church at
Home and Abroad, May, 1888.
Before the short trip reported by Mr. Dodd, 1 had
taken a longer one to the northern provinces, going
over the same ground which Mr. Martin and I had
travelled the .season before. This time I hantized thir-
ty-six adults and thirty-two non-communing members.
The commnaion was administered eight times. I mar-
ried two oonples and ordained one elder. Each Sunday
was spent in villages where there were already Chris-
CHRISTIAN COMMUNITIES PLANTED 287
tiaiis. This ('ncniinii^iii;,' siitross wits the harvest of
seed sown on former tours, but gathered largely
through God's blessing on the work of faithful elders.
Both in Chieug Kai and in Chieng Sen we uiit^ht (hen
have organized eliunhcs wi(h a f^oodly uuiiiher of
members communing and non -oommuning, and with
very good material for officers. NSn Snwan at Chieng
S("ii, like myself, never had (he gift of (luent speech,
but his reputation for sterling integrity has left a
raark that eloquence might envy. And Ai TQ at Nfing
Le bids fair to be another power in the province of
Cliieni? Rai. IJoth of them are stronn;ly aided by their
daughters, the lirst-fruits of our Girls' School.
During the year 1887 the whole number of adult ac-
cessions was one hundred and seven; and one hun-
dred and eleven non-communing members were added
to the roll, making two hundred and eighteen addi-
tions to onr little flock, exclusive of Lakawn. As I
now look back over tliese \ears, it is plain to me that
the great lack of the mission all the way through has
been the lack of well-trained native helpers; and
for this lack the mission itself is largely to blame.
Those who arc eafj'^r to aCv-omplish the evanj^eiization
of the world within the pi-esent gene- 'ition, should first
of all lay hold of the present generation of Christians
in every mission field. Fill these with enthusiasm,
qualify them, and send them forth, and we have a
lever that will lift the world.
From the Report of the Board in the same number
of The Church nt Home and Abroad cited above, we
quote the following:
" Dr. and Mrs. Peoples are still left alone in Lakawn, the
utmost picket of the foreign missionary line. Mis. Peoples
has not one lady for a companion; and the doctor is dan-
288 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
porously Imrdonod. beariiip nil iilono tho labour of teaching
and hoaling. Tor inorc tlian two yours thoy have been
waiting for help. No station under tho oaro of the Foreign
Board ealla so loudly for reinforcements as this. Again
and aKuiii we thought we had found a Christian couple for
Lakawii; but in each case wo have loi n disHi)i)ointod. SIdkIo
men could have been sent, but it is very much to be desired
that the new missionary going there should be married.
Dr. Peoples' niodioal work has won for hiin increasing
friendliness throughout the city. . . . Mrs. McOilvary has
revised the Lao version of Matthew's Gospel, and has trans-
lated for the first time about half of the book of Acts.
The Scriptures have had considerable circulation among the
Lao, but only in the Siamese tonRuo. ... Dr. Cary had
no sooner reached tho field than tlirougli tiie assistance of
Dr. McGilvary and Norwood Mo(iilvary, a young lad. act-
ing as interpreters, he was able to begin work with regular
hours for receiving patients, and for surgical practice. . . .
Mr. Collins has made a beginning in the much-nee^
school for boys.
" Only one other mission now under the care of our
Presbyterian Church has during the last year shown as much
growth, in proportion to the missionary force employed, as
tho Lao mission. . . . It is never out of place to remind our
Presbyterian Church that it is to her alone that God haa
committed the eTaugelization of the Lfio tribes."
XXVI
A FOOTHOLD IN LAMPCn
AT a meeting of the Presbytery shortly before the
L\ opening of the year 1888, a committee consist-
^ ing of Dr. Peoples, Mr. Dodd, and myself, was
ajtpolnted to orj^anizc two (linrclips, ono in Chienp S^n
and one in Chieng Rui, if the way were found open
to do so. We also arranged that Mrs. McQilvary
should accompany our son Norwood as far as Bang-
kok on his way to the United ij^tates. And both ex-
peditions were to start on the same day, Monday,
Pebmary 7th.
To e.Tso somewhat the strain of such a nartinp;, I
took an earlier leave, and went on Saturday with Mr.
Dodd to spend Sunday with the church at M£ Dawk
D£ng. That evening we performed a marriage cere-
mony in the church. The next day thirteen adults were
received into the church — nine by baptism and four
who were children f the church. On Monday Mrs. Mc-
Gilvary and I exchanged our last good-byes by note,
and both parties got oflE on Tuesday morning. Dr. and
Mrs. Peoples, starting from Lakawn, made the first
stage of their journey separately from us to a ren-
dezvous at the Christinn village of M6 Kawn, twelve
miles south of Chieng Kui.
At our next Christian village another wedding was
waiting for us, but the course of true love did not run
smooth. The bride belonged to a well-to-do Christian
389
290 AMOXC Tin: SIAMESE AND THE LAO
family ; Iml no number of it rould read Ihe Scriplnres.
They, therefore, "redeemed" a Christian family for
four hundred rupees. !n unler to senire tlie services of
the son as a sort of Levite iu the family, and to teaeh
the eldest daughter to read. Naturally, the t\v«» young
people fell in love wiili t .ieli oilier. Tliat was a cnn-
tinfjeney the mother liiid not planned for. and a dif
ficuity arose. She asked, " If 1 take Nan for a
son-in-law, where do my four hundred rupees come In? "
It was all in vain to tell her that she tjot Ihm- |.ay in
a r^oad son in law. 8he said lie was her.s already till
his del)t was paid. At last she so far relented as to al-
low the ceremony to take place, hut she would not see
it performed. We invited the father and tlie rest of
the family and the neighbours into our tent, where,
to their gieat joy, the two were made man and wife.
The imphuabh' — <dher lived to see that she had not
made a bad 1 ic: .. after all.
At Me Kawn we were joined by Dr. and Mrs. Peo-
ples, and we had a good Sabbath with the little flock
there. Our elub fo(»ted man bad looked after it well,
and be beeame later a good elder and a tine diseipli-
tariau. About thii ime I was taken with a severe at-
tack of indigestion from which I did not recover for
numy months — the only continued sickness from which
I have sullered in all my connection with the Lao
mission.
On reaching Chieng RSi, we found our good friend
the governor mourning the death of his wife, the same
who, when we last saw her, invited us to worship in
her house. It was a pleasure to point the bereaved
man to the divine t'omforter. and we are fain to be-
lieve that our words were not in vain. He was still
anxious to have the mission station established, which
A FOOTHOLD IN LAMPON
291
wc, unfnrtnnately, could not jet promiBe. The Ohao
r|i;irrit iiivit»'«i Dr. Peoples t<» lecture with hiH ma^c
hititi'in, and ti> liiive worsiiip ii> lii8 residence, whei-e we
had a cr(»\vde<l audieine. We did not organi/.e a
church in Chicnft Rili. however, partly because the two
Christian villafjcs. e<i'iidistant from the city north
an«l youth, could uol agive ou llie best jdace of meet-
ing. But we found the wa3' ojien in Chieng 8te, and
did organize a ciuirch tiifre, iu Nan Suwau".s house,
on the verv bank of the Me Kon^. and with one-half of
its nienilKirs living ou the ether shore.
Dr. PeopleH had left a large practice in Laltawn, and
was olilijicd (o ri'tinn. Mr. Dndd returned with them
to Lakawu, aud thence to Chienguiai. 1 hud come un-
trammelled, to remain as long as duty called. It Heemed
very desirable to follow up the impressioUH already
made on that eommuuit.v. lJut I was not well, and a
week's delay louud me no better. Thinking that a
change might be beneficial, I crossed the plaiu to Sto
Y& Wichai's home at the foot of the monntaina. It
was a hard day's ride, and I became worse on the way.
On reaching my destination I could hardly stand,
Besting there on my back a few days without improve-
ment, it seemed my first duty to f;et to a physician as
soon as possible, or, at least, make the effort to do so.
Most of the way I could stop at night either with or
near Christian families. This I did, and so reached
Chicnf^mai on .Vpril 1 1th.
During my absence the building of the Boya' Hi|^
Bchool was completed ;and the school was opened under
the direction of Mr. Collins on March 10th, with an en-
rollment of forty-flve boys, nearly all children of Chris-
tian parents. In June Dr. Wilson reached Chiengmai
on bis return from the United States; and with him
293 AM(tN<i Tin: siAMi:si; .wn Tvr, i.ao
came Mi«H riwsoii, (k-xtiutHl with (ho iMtt tur (o join the
F^plcfl at Lakawn, and Mim Belle Eakin (now Mn.
Dodd), for the iVirW Kt hool in chiengmal. MiM Grif-
fin was iiln'inlv poneou Iht furlough.
Till- building Tor the (iirlH' School had long been
in prorem nf oontitruction. Hnildeni and plans had
Ikh'Ii scvc'iiil liiiu's cliiiu^'t'd, till iit li\st i)r. CliccU took
the c'untnu l, ami (luisln'tl it iu the suiiimer of 1888. It
hflR Hprved its purpose admirably the«e many yeara, and
we theu thought it wniiM dn for all time. But thoiifrh
llic Int tlicii scciiu'd ;miiil.v iiir;;(', it proves now entirely
too small for the neetls of the sehocd. Moivover, it is
impoHHlble to enlarge It. On it» nouth Bide runs the
most travell<*d road in the eountry; \v!>ile on the east
the land is owned by u wealthy official, who would not
sell at any prioo.
Our congregations had grown till a church building
became a neeessity e^•en more nrpent than a school-
house. The tirst mission dwelling-house was planned
in part with reference to such need, its largest room
long beinj; used U>v Sunday worsliip. Then a small
l('m|>orary eliapel took its After tiiat a larger
teak (hiuble dwelliug was bought. That, however,
would not hold more than two hundred persons — not
more than half of our hnm'sl eonfj^regatious at the
present day. Then for a time we worshipited in the
unfinished building for the Girls' School. When, at
last, that was finished, it was needed for its original
purpose, and we ajrain must move. It was then de-
cided that we must have a ihurtli, aud oue worthy of
our cause — such as would attract rather than repel
both rulers and in'oplo. So one Sii iday afternoon we
held a meeting of th' mgrega'ion t«» take steps for
building it. We wetv delighted to see the interest
A, FOOTHOLD IN LAMPON 2M
manifeRted in the enterprlne. Pa Kawnff, an aged
glave of the Vvim t; laid «li>\vii ;i silvi r nipi't', wliu li
was all the money she pdsseHsetl and il w,,.-i the very
first luouey ifeeived townrd tlie huilding. The t-hnrch
was completed by the end uf tbii year.
We h:nl < niiliinit'd cv i(h'in e of the fri"ud»iiiilt of
I'liuce lutamm, aud eveu of his giowivifj iat*«*«t in
our work. One rtonday, in answer to an isvitatleA
given by Mi-h. ('heek, ht- jiMt-iided "ur umiuiiniou
sf'i vii f, ( (iiidiu t( .1 tlii\t (lav l>v Mr. \Vii^>n AlthoUKh
he arrived au hour aud a half t<M) sooo, ue n luaiued
all through the long service, and bowt^d m h«; took
bia leave, just wlini the coiniininioii tui>-. 'mk iliont
to be passed. On lh» day of our daughter s marriage
in Btatesville, North ( arolina, he and the O; <^ura-
misaioner attended u rel^'I^tion iriven in bou<
event. Tlie Prince had known lier as a child. -Mid
seemed muck interested. " Is it tins very night that
the marriage takes place? " he asked. The reception
was a very pleasant affair. Tlp.ii!;h niv wile w.i^ still
in ISaUfrkok, .Miss Flc<'son aud Miss lOakiu entei'ed with
all their hearts into the thing, aud, with the assistance
of Mr. Dodd and Mr. Collins, carried it ihr.njgh in
splendid shape. Aflei- n-freshments we had t liarades
and other games. It was amusing to see the look of
snrpri^ on the face of the Prince when the charades
were played.—" What are they doing? ' " What does
that mean?" "I tl'Ut understand." Hut the game
was quite too recondite to !»• explained to him. So,
after the first chara^, His Highness and his party too'i
their leave, assuring us tbat they had enj^ed the «w o-
ing very much.
Dr. Wilson and Miss Ple«ion presently journeyed OiJ
to their p«8t at l^kawn. Tte governor there gave the
294 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
mission a very desirable plot of ground for the new
bnildings which would be retjuired, saving, " I am glad
to have you come. It would be a shame, when you
come to live in oar country, if the government did not
do somethinjj; to make you comfortable."
Scarcely loss important than the opening of the
new station in Laka^^n, was the opening of permanent
work in Laniptin, the largest and most important sub-
station of (Miiongmai. Lainpun is a little gem of a
walled city in the same great plain as Chiengmai, and
only eighteen miles distant to the south. From the
first settlement of the country, however, it has been
a separate state, yet governed by a branch of the same
ruling race.
We have seen that the new governor of Lampun was
friendly to the mission and the missionaries. The
opening of the work in Bun Pen and other important
villages near it, i-endered it almost essential to have a
footing in LampGn itself. After some negotiation we
secured a suitable lot, the grounds of the second gov-
ernor recently deceased. We purchased from the fam-
ily the land with the old residence and the stockade.
But presently the family became alarmed lest they had
been too hasty in selling it to foreigners, and brought
back the money, begging us to restore the land. They
brought, also, a message from the governor, saying that
he wanted the residt ncc and the stockade himself, but
would yiif us the rest of the land. It was to our in-
terest to keep on good terms with him, and we agreed
to the arrangement. We got what we wanted, a good
station, and we retained, and probably increased the
governor's friendshi;
To make possession sure, I purchased a newly-bnilt
house which had come to be regarded as unlucky, be-
KK\. JUNAIHAN WIISON, 1>. 1>.
1898
A FOOTHOLD IN LAMPUN 295
cause the owner's wife had suddenly died in it. Hav-
ing arranged to have (lie house moved and set up on
the lot, I was about to return to C*hiengmai, thinking
that there was nothing more to do, when I was sent
for by the chief executive oflScer of the Court. He said
that the governor, indeed, had given us the place, but
the Court wished to make one proviso. He begged that
I would sign a paper promising in few words that if
the government at any time should need it, we would
give it up. The governor was growing old, and they
themselves would be held responsible. I saw at once
that such a step would put it in the power of any one
to oust us. A nwd might he feigned, and yet we should
be powerless to withstand it. 1 was perfectly dum-
founded. My first thought was to go directly tr the
governor. But presently I bethought me of the terms
on which IT. R. IT. Trince Bijit, the brother of His
Majesty, had given to the mission the fine lot for its
hospital. The lot was given in perpetuity on condi-
tion that it be used for medical and missionary pur-
poses only. As long as it was so used, it was ours.
But it could not be sold, or used for other purposes,
without forfeiture to the Prince. The thought came to
me as an inspiration. T told the officer of that written
deed. " Very well," said he. "If you have such a
paper as that, show it to me, and I will give you one
like it for this lot."
The diflTiculty was solved. A swift footman was
despatched to Chiengmai gisking Mr. Martin to send me
at once a copy of the Prince's deed of gift. Next morn-
ing it cjinie, and I took it immediately to the Court.
The officer's surprise was evident. TTe took it and
read it carefully through. His word was given. After
a moment's thought he said, "That is all right. It
296 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
will relieve me of all respoMibility." Then he called
up his clerk to copy its terms and execute the new
deed. The land was onrs to use as long as we should
use it for the iiuriM)ses si»ecifled; and that I hoped
would be until the millennium! With a light heart I
was soon aboard iiiv boat and homeward bound.
When the house had been removed and set up on the
lot, Mr. Collins and I went down and spent a week
there, with interested audiences every night. It at
once became an imjio'-tant out-station of the Chicngmai
mission. In the meantime Mr, Dodd had already col-
lected some twenty students for his trainlngdass, but
without any quarters for them in Chiengmai. Later
Mr. and Mrs. Dodd were put in charge of the station,
and the Training School was moved over to Lampun.
When the Lampun church was organized, its charter
members nunil)ere(i nearly two hundred. It is now
the mother of rwo other churches. Scarcity of men in
the mission, oijcnings in other places, and other causes
have prevented the Lampun station from being con-
tinuously manned. lUit now, with such efficient work-
ers there as Mr. and Mrs. Freeman, it has an important
future before it, as a sub-station of Chiengmai.
Meanwhile my own sickness had » jntinued, with
several relapses. A minor surgical operation had so
delayed my recovery that Dr. Cary now advised a
change and rest in a boat trip to Bangkok. After the
departure of our son to (he I hited States, my wife
had remained in Bangkok lor a vi.3it, and was soon to
return. The telegraph line which the Siamese govern-
ment had recently completed, enabled me to wire to
her to wait for me t(» come and bring her back. Pr.
Cary himself, ""'ho had never recovered from the shock
occasioned by the tragic death of Mrs. Cary, and who
A FOOTHOLD IN LAMPCN 297
was never well during his whole stay in the misgion, de*
cided to accompany me as far as Rahcng.
At Paknam Po I left my boat, and took passage for
Bangkok by river steamer, thus saving seven days.
After remaining in Bangkok only three nights, my
wife and 1 took passage in t'.e same steamer on her
return trip, and rejoined our boat at the forks. The
water was at its best stage, and we passed np some of
tlie rapids without knowing lliat they were there. But
my trouble had not left me. A low diet and long ill-
ness had left me thin and weak. The round trip oc-
cupied only two months. Our last Sunday was at Pfik
IJawng, t'vo days below Chiengmai. There we held a
communion service with the Christian families, and a
new family was baptized.
Three miles to the east is Ban Pto, the village which
has figured in a previous chapter. The Christians
there had long been asking for a visit, which my own
sickness and want of time on the part of others ren-
dered it impossible to make. On Monday morning I
decided to take the risk and visit it. With some mis-
givings I saw my wife's boat move oflf and leave me —
burning, so to speak, my bridges behind me. The
wl>ole country was flooded. Discarding shoes and
stockings, 1 made my way on foot, weak as I was,
through water, across ditches, or along the narrow
ridges of rice-fields, and finally reached B&n Pto in
safety.
And what a week I spent in that neighbourhood!
At Nawng SIu, a village two miles distant from Ban
Pen, there were six families of professed believers
whom Dr. Dodd and 1 had visited the season before —
almost swimming at times to reach them in their scat-
tered homes. Their admission was postponed at that
298 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
time until they shonld liavc had further instnutioB.
To these I specially addressed myself. During the
week our faithful elder. Nan Ta, came down to asgist
me in the work. On Friday evening the session met
at Nawng STu to examine and instruct these ne*-
converts, and again on Saturday morning, closing
finally at two o'clock in the afternoon with baptism
and the Lord's Snj.i.er. On rounting up the numlters.
it was found that twenty adults and seventeen chil-
dren had been baptized. Among them was an aged
couple with their children, grand. hiidron, and great
grandchildren. It was a niouiorahle sight. The Sab-
bath was spent at IJau Ten, where seven more adults
and one child were baptized. On Monday I made my
way hack to the boat as 1 had come, and reached home
on Tuesday. Au<l now for the strange part of the
story. / nachal home m:«M. My week's wading in the
water, and the bard work, had done what medicine and
doctors and a long lu>at trip had fail.'d to accomplish!
But a new disappointment awaited me. Before I
reached home, Dr. Cary had resigned. His short
career is one of the mysteries to he explained in the
great beyond. A consecrated physician, he had given
his life to the Lao people. Crushed by his tragic be-
reavement on the way out, and with a constitution
never strong, he contended manfully for two years
against the debilitating etVects of a malarial climate.
But at last he had to give up the fight. His work had
been successful. " He saved others; himself he could
not save! "
His departure threw on me again the oversight of
the medical work. But this time most of the dlspens
ing of medi. ine to the natives fell nii Chanta. a jirott'-ge
of my own, who had had good training under two physi-
A FOOTIIOIJ) IN LAMPUN
299
(ians. Meanwhile I>r. Cheek looked after the mission
families, and, as alieady stated, was always ready to
respond to an urgent call in the hospital. My time
was largely given, thei-efore, to the evan^'elistic work,
to instiMicting Nun Ta and other elders, and to teach-
ing enquirers and others to read in Riamese, first the
Shorter Catechism, and then a Gos{)el.
The growth of the (Uiifnginai chnrcli, though not
phenomenal, was very healthy and very uniform
throughout the year. There were accessions every
month save one, amounting in all to one hundred and
sixty souls. At the end of the year Miss I. A. GriflBn
returned from furlough, and served a very useful term
until 1896, when she retired greatly missed. At
Lakawn, Rev. Hugh Taylor and his wile began a
twenty years' course of evangelistic work carried on
with indefatigable seal, while Miss Fleeson was no less
zealous and successful in laying the foundation of a
Girls' School, destined to be a power in that province.
XXVII
A PRISONER OP JESUS CHRIST
WE have bad frequent occasion gratefully to
record the good will of the Siamese govern-
njent, and of its coniinissionors arul repre-
sentatives, towards our mission. In all its history the
only exception to this uniform friendliness was in the
case of the Commissioner who, iu 1880, succeeded
Praya Tep Worachun. The lioys School was on an
old deserted monastery-site given by the Prince to Dr.
Peoples for a medical or a mission compound. An
old ruined chedi or pagoda was still standing on it.
Such lots, deserted by the monks, were then regarded
as abodes of the spirits, and on such the natives dared
not live. In preparing for the school buildings, the
d6bri8 about the foot of the (hedi had been dug
away. One of the early acts of the new Commissioner
was to send a written notice to the mission that it was
improper to use old Buddhist shrines for purposes
other than those for which they were originally built ;
and he gave us notice that we wei-e to have three months
in which to find other quarters. But as no other lot
was offered in its place, we remained quiet, and that
was the last we heard of it.
Another incident, occurring soon after, was more
serious, and gave us a great deal of anxiety; foi- it
came near costing the life of one of our best native
assistants. A deputation from some twelve or fifteen
800
A pris(»\i:k of .iKsiTs ciiiUKT :w\
families in Cbieng Duo came to us with a request that
a native assistant be sent np to teach tbem. Kru Nftn
T5 went np, and thev bcfuiiie believers, but required
much further instruction. We selected Noi Siri, the
most prudent of our elders, for the task. We charged
him specially, inasmuch as it was in a province new
to our work, to use great caul inn and jjivc no just
cause of oflence to the rulers or to others. He re-
mained there a month, and then was recalled by the
illness of his wife. He stopped at the mission to re-
port pronrrcss, pivinp a jiood account of the conduct and
diligence of the new Christians.
Great was onr sarprise, then, in a tew honrs to learn
that Noi Siri had been arrested, i»ut in heavy irons,
and thrown into pristm on a charge of treason against
the government. Mr. Collins, Mr. Dodd, and I called
upon the Commissioner to enquire the canse of his ar-
rest. The Commissioner replied, Yes; he had him ar-
rested on the grave charge of disloyalty in teaching
the converts that they were exempt from goremment
work. Such teaching was treason; and if the charge
were true, the penalty was death. It was not, there-
fore, a bailable offence. At the same time, he said, no
specifications had been forwarded. He would sum-
mon the accusers, and tlio man should have a fair trial,
and should have the privilege of producing any wit-
nesses he pleased in his defence. That was, of course,
all that we could ask, save to beg that the trial be
hastened as far as possible — to which he consented.
Krii Nan Ta was allowed to see the prisoner in his
cell. From him he learned that so far was the accusa-
tion from being true, that he had taught the Christians
that they were not exempt from government work ; and
that, furthermore, no call had been made on them for
303 AMONG THE SIAMESE AXI> THF LAO
sprvico while lie wiis there. We sent immediately for
all the Christian men to come down.
After some delay the prinoner was called Into court
and examined. Aciordiiis to Siamese custom, hia ex-
amination was taken down in writing.
« Are you Noi Siri, who has been teaching in Ohieng
Dflo? "
" Yes."
" When did you go there to teach? "
" On the fourth of the third waning moon."
" Have yon tanjj;ht that Christiana are exempt from
public service? "
" No. On the contrary, I taught that, as Siamese
subjects, Christians are to pay their taxes and perform
all the dnties of other subjects."
The testimony of the governor of Chieng Dao, his
accuser, was then taken in his presence. Among the
questions asked him were these :
" Can you state any particular time and place when
the Christians were called to do government work and
refused?"
" Yes. I called a man or two, and they did not
obey."
" When was that call made? "
« On the fourth day of the third waxing moon."
This was the only specification which the governor
gave. The date, it will be noted, was fifteen days
earlier than that of Noi Siri's arrival in Chieng DSo.
If the statement were true, ir might have subjected
the persons who were summoned to trial and punish-
ment for disJoyalty; but it absolutely cleared Noi Siri.
An upright judge would have dismissed the case. The
Christian witnesses were in attendance to testify as
to the nature of the instruction they received; but
A PRI80KER OF JESUS CHBIBT 303
were not g\r&i the opportunity to do m. The accnaed
man was reinuuded t«» prisnu. We wailed, hut nothing
was done. We called uuoe uiure un the CummiHsiuner;
bat were told that the case had been referred to
Bangkok, and be muHt wait for a reply. We wuited
ajjnin. At last we made a written ajtpeal on h's l>e
half, and in answer were told that the ca8e was one
with their own snbjectH, and we had nothing to do with
it. Meantime Noi Hiri had Ihm uiiu- iniit»' ill, and all
that we could do was to get him transferred from hia
dungeon tu the common prison.
Eight months after this, when Mr. Dodd went down
to Bangkok to be married to Mi.ss Eakin, he made,
through the United States Minister, an appeal to the
Prince Minister of the North, who promised an im-
mediate order for his release. As soon as we were as-
sured of that, we went to the resident Prince in Chieng-
uiai, II. K. H. I'riuoe Sonapandit, who promised that
the order should be issued at once. The next day we
called on the ('oiuniissioner to remind him of the
Prince's promise; but he and the Judge hud just gone
out for a stroll in the city. It waa then Saturday
afternoon. Next day was our communion service, and
1 was determined to have Noi Siri jiresent. To do this
1 had to follow those men up at once. I was a fast
walker, and, when necessary, conld ran. My race
after them was the ludicrous sequel of the i j' k Two
high officials closing their office and escaping, in order
to keep their victim in chains another night, pursued
by swifter feet, and overtaken in the street! The
Judge acknowledged tl Jie Prince had given the
order. He would attend to it to-morrow. Since to-
morrow would be Snnday, I need not come. But I
knew that we should not see Noi Siri in time for onr
.'{04 AM()N<i Tin -lAMHHi: AN1> Till: I.AO
worship unlt'HH I v.fin !■ bUu. So .n Hunday morn-
ing I i-ulled uiire more on the .IiHlgc wlxi iiguin Mid
that I need nut wail ; luit I iiad to teli him that I
would not return till I Haw hi^ rt'leasi-. So \hf jiriH
oner was called, aud 1 ^• iw tho fetters tukeu uff froiu
bi8 ankles.
The wcoiid Ik'II was 'ii,f.iU).' when I entered th*'
rhurih; Itut Noi Siii wns will. nie. The congregation
ruHc and sang Uu- ion, tu>-ti-,- loxology. There were
not many dry eye« in tin' i-uom Mr. l)odd preached
from (lie tt xt. " Aiitl hii that a . thiugH work
together for good to tin ui that 1' vi- (iiMi." Auiuag the
converts who then stood up t«> make a piMic i»o-
fesHion of faith was NHng Sii, a -hm^hter of N'oi Siri
and thw happy coincidence was u» planning of
uurs.
Noi Hiri'8 faith bad beat tried by fire, and be bad
come fortli from tlie furnac*' as jniri' gold. ! ;i addii .un
to his own imprison incnt and distress, his wife liad
been for monthfi vi r.v h.w with Hick»e«a. and one of Hi*
grandchildren liad di« <l during the intfi !. Hut f mii
liis jirison .dl he had wrii, ('. his fa ily not to
let tlieir faith be shaken eitlier by his i ials or by
their own. r>aring the eight months »ad ten days of
his iinprisonnient, one hundred inid 'hirty-thrc pi-r-
sons — his daughter closing the list— w re received mto
church nembership. A European in einfiloy of the
govemm^it, who had cognizan.e of ihe wiiuie case,
afterwards said > me, " It might lie well to et the
Cuinmissiouer t< uprison a few m re (.hristian- '. " A
history of the < -« was afterwards poblisbed f»y on
Hoard in a leall entitleil, " The Laos Prisoner
Hefore the e! e of the .vei'r there was an event whieh
for the time can ■ near to overlhrowing th. jjov iBiB«>t.
A fUlSOXf R OF -rrs? ( i;! ' IMC,
A new tax, i thi«?fl^\ on nrv<H irwa, vauNcd much
rxaupwarion i hrotifhoti* the rnantry. As usual, the
tax fn n cd otif • ('hi fur collectim. The
hKMil ofHcer^ in v;ii di-- t- <>riur<l n nmf'fion t<>
resiHt to the uttern> ■ tht ci.iiet Mon of the tax. Of
cevrae, ihim coitld nor be allov <>d, nince the cr>11e(*ton
"vere tb«? ajroTit nf H • / >voi - it. '"he resii- ico wa^
centred 'liic;.^ in tht 'istrii
ih( city, *horp 'rayfl ■. wi
HM » Holdic^, U HO Ui
fnt' 'f t!it' i ' . nfs ■•
tnai. A (In; i vt n .ts st't
If the:v had mat ■ dash
liavc t ken '* for he ■
wholly ' itii Hi iii, and
pared.
Oar h wf - V
thf Chii.
inisii ^t'Dts. li^ re ili
that of the Sisiajese Prin
pesit Of* . : ^he othwr
wr-- !i( 'iHiro;
ail' ehj ircii ot .
aliR««8t Mrcibly t
'.m\ i'ase, sh
■ e»-r fr th» ,
. at i di~f
h(
'I \im>. ■Mm
s ii» z- ! , a
ill '
.1111
uvevom^t.
vard of
< liiitation
•nidderable
f rhieng-
the c 'J.
d e Hy
iipli IH
vvaa m, e-
tia^nd yards away from
viis tlio ohjfclive of the
the C'omnuHsioner and
t4ona^Bdit were nearly «p
■ of the river. Our position
COli
a-. 3^ b«"
other tliev dcisi
ly the 'M-t that the wives
()' iiluential Chinese had
^efng' a our onmponnd. In
.oen IB a po.sitinn of groat
uii he other side of the river
py. We were strongly advised
Britii<b Consulate, wh«»He shidter
: lis Hut the whole population in
ti \\. watching os. If <■ -stirred,
a general stftmpede.
:.-<elve« and for the country, the
■u people failed. One after an-
leader, till at last he also fled.
306 AMONG TOE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
He was caught, however, and with seven other leaders
was executed. This was the end of the matter in
Chiengmai ; but certain parties of the insurgentB, escap-
ing northwards, became roving bands of marauders
that for some time disturbed tlie peace of the frontier
towns. The rebellion never had any chance of ultimate
success; but had the attack on the city been actually
made, the immediate consequences would have been
direful, and untold calamity would have been entailed
on the whole country.
The arrival of Dr. McKean at the close of the year
marked an era in our medical work. He was accom-
panied by our daughter, Miss Cornelia H. McGilvary,
now Mrs. William Harris Jnn. It was Vie pleasant
duty of Mrs. McGilvary to escort the party up from
Hangkok. The appointment of our daughter was no
less a surprise than a delight to us. During her school
days she always said that she woald not become a
missionary. When the question came up for final set-
tlement, she fought it out in her own mind alone,
and reached her own decision. The LHo language,
which, during her ten years' absence, she seemed to
have lost entirely, came back to her very soon and with
little effort.
It has been Dr. McKean's privilege to continne the
work begun by able physicians, and to carry it to a
higher degree of efficiency. He has combined, as most
of our physicians have done, the two great objects of
the medical missionary, the medical and the evangel-
istic, making the former a moans to the latter. While
the professional and the charitable features of the work
have not been minimized, bnt rather magnified, no min-
ister has more loved to i)reach the Gosj^l, or has been
more successful in it At the same time it may be
A PRISONER OF .lE.SUS CHRIHT 307
that the great work now cnlicstiDg his sympathj and
his Btrennons efforts — the establishment of a leper col-
ony and hosj)ital, and the amelioration of the condi-
tion of that unfortunate class— may be the one with
which bis name will be most intimately associated.
XXVIII
CIRCUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTER, 1890
1HAD been appointed by Presbytery to organize
in Chiang Rai the church which was not found
read.v for orjjanizntion on my previous visit. I
had planned for a tour longer than usual, to incinde
the eastern provinces as far as NSn, as well as the
northern ones, and expected to take with me native
assistants only. Hut upon the arrival of our rein-
forcement, 1 was no less surprised than delighted to
find that ray daughter desired to accompany me; and
so it was arranged.
Starting on February 5th, we spent the first f>unday
in Lakawn. Here we met another surprise. Mr.
Taylor had spent his first year in that annoying
Work for the now missionary, the building of a house,
lie was anxious to get out among the people, but
feared he was not sufficiently versed in the language
to make profitable u tour alone. He and Mrs. Taylor
would join us if they could get elephants — a matter
which was easily arranged. Mr. Tayh^r proved to be
an efficient helper. My daughter had a delightful com-
panion, and it was a great pleasure to initiate the new
missionaries into the evangelistic work which Dr. and
Mrs. Taylor since then have carried on so succewfully
for twenty years. It is still their delight — may they
live to carry it on for many years to come!
One of the chief diversions of the trip thenceforward
80S
CIECUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTER 309
was aflForded by tli(> prankfi of an nncommonly mis-
chievoos baby-clepliant which accompanied its mother.
On one occasion a footman coinin<» towards vis stepped
out of the trail and stood beside a large tree to let
US pass. The mischievoas creature saw his oppor-
tunily, and before t!ie man knew what was up, he
found himself fast pinioned between the elephant's
head and the tree trunk. The frightened man extri-
cated himself with loud outcry, while the bdioldera
were convulsed with laughter. 0»ir own men were con-
stantly the victims of his pranks; so that, one day, I
told them that there would be no trouble if they
would only leave the creature alone — adding, by w.ay
of clincliing my advice, " You see, he never troubles
me." Just then, to the great delight of all, he made
straight for me, and if there had been a tree behind
me I should have been in the same unpleasant position
in which the footman found himself.
Mr. Taylor's account of the earlier portion of the trip
is as follows:
" We left Lakawn on the 12th of February with Dr. Mc-
Gilvary and his daughter, anJ in four days roaehed Mdang
Pre. Our tents were pitched by the road just outside the city
gate. The advent of four foreigners, two of whom were
women, created quite a stir; and we were all kept abundantly
busy in visiting and being visited. Mrs. Taylor and Miss
Mi'Gilvary were the first white ladies to risit the place;
and of course, much to their own discomfort, were the centre
of attraction. . . .
" The people of Pre seemed very ready to listen to the
Gospel; so plenty of auditors were found CTerywhere. On
Sabbath, the IGth, the first convert in Pre was baptized.
He is a blind man, Noi Wong by name, who came to
Lakawn to *>r * Dr. Peoples operate on his eyes; but as
nothing coi uni- for him, he returneil home carrying in
his heart so. ^f the teachings there received, and in his
310 VMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
hiiiul a riaiiuscrii>t copy of a small catechism I was able to
spuft' him. From his answers before the session, it was evi-
dei't that he had used his brother's eyes weil in having it
read to him.
'' On Wednesday we started on for Nan, and arrived there
the following Tuesday. We received a ver^- cordial welcome
from the officials of that city, who sent a man to put in order
a rest-house for us, and another to conduct our elephants to
a place for food and water. Next day, after the court closed,
some of the officials eume tu visit us. After wading tliruugh
the crowds on the tirst and second verandas, and finally
planting himself cross-legged in the middle of the thronged
reception-room, tlieir Chief said they tho.ipht we would be
lonesome; so they had come to visit us. No idea could have
been more c()mical to u.s: but he was seriously in earnest,
and explained that he h id never known the people to visit
with other foreigners who had come to their city. They
would not, however, listen well when the subject of religion
was broached, and with one or two exceptions would not at-
tend any of our services."
The morning after our arrival in Nun, laj
daughter met in the market-place a daughter of the
Prince, and, l)ffoit> she was aware, found herself
escorted into the jialace. Her newlv recovered lan-
guar^e stood her in g(»(»d stead, and she l;ad a pleas-
ant talk with the Prince and his daughters and wives.
Next day lie sent word that he would be pleased to give
our party an audience. He was of venerable age, and
Mcond only to our Chiengmai Prince in his influence
at the court of Bangkok. He expressed his pleasure at
our visit to his country. He was too cdd to embrace
a new religion. We might teach his children and
grandchildren. What they would do he did not
know.
At Nun the Taylors left us, returning to their sta-
tion, while we journeyed on. Our next stage was
CIRCUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTER 311
f'hieng Kawng, one hundred and fifty miles to the
northwest. We usually stopped for the night at large
villages, or sometimes in small towns. But once we
spent two days in the forest, where hears, tigers, and
wild elephants abound. The first evening we juat
missed the sight of three tigers. Our men had gone on
ahead to select a camping-place for the night, and saw
a mother with two cnhs crossing the road. Next
morning one of my elephants, that had been hobbled
and turned loose, was not on hand. It was nothing
nnosaal for one of thctn to be a little belated, so we
loaded up the others and prepared for starting. But
when an hour had passed, and then two hours, and the
elephant still did not come, we unloaded than and
waited a long weary day and an anxious ni{,ht. Early
next morning, however, the driver appeared. That
was a relief, but still there was no elephant. He had
followed her trail over the mountain ridge, down
gorges, and across knolls, till, tired and hungry, he
had retraced his steps. Night overtook him, and,
crouched under a tree, he had caught snatches of sleep
while keeping watch for tigers. Foi two nights and a
day he had not tasted food. With an elephant's in-
stinct, the beast was making her way towards her old
range in Chieng Rai, many days distant. It was a
relief to know that she had not joined a iarge wild
herd, in which case her captur*! would be practically
impossible.
We could not remain indefinitely in the forest. So
giving the driver food, a gun. and two carriers for
company, with instructions not to return till the ele-
phant was found, we moved ou five or six miles to the
next village. Ran Kein. This was the noon of Wednes-
day. Our detention seemed provid^tial. We found
.'512 AMONO TIIK SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tho placo fever strickon. Our incdiciiies at once made
us friends. Our teul woh crowded with visitors, so
that I had little time to think of tt» Imt el^ant. The
jiodple seemed lninf»Ty for Ifie (lnspcl. Tln-oo suh-
stantial men in the village, on the nighi iK'Inre we left,
professed a sincere and cordial acceptance ^ J^m as
their Savionr.
On Saturday, shortly after midday, there W3' a
sh(mt, "Here comes Lung Noi with the elephant!"
I WW both and sorry to hear it. Had I been alone,
I should have remained longer. I?nt we ha<l lost so
much time, thar every one was eager to depart. I
[tromised if possible to come again, hut the time never
came.
Chier.g Kawng was our next point, a place T had
visited with Dr. Vroomau seventeen years before. The
young lad who then was so much interested in my re-
jieating rifle was now governor, and came running out,
bareheaded and barefooted, to welcome us. In the in-
terval 1 had met him from time to time in Chiengmai,
and he always begged that I woald make him another
visit. I had been better than my word — I had come
at lasi, and brought my daughter, too. His brother,
the second governor, had seen us in time to don his
audience dress, and he appeared more like a white
man than any one we had seen since the Taylors left
us. He was ready to start on an expedition to Mflang
Bing, five days northward beyond the Mft KOng. The
Prince of Nan had received permission from the King
of Siam to repeojde thai old province. Hence this ex-
pedition. The leader had three hundred men, and gave
me a cordial invitation to go as chaplain and physi-
cian! After this, while the work was well under way,
thb territory was turned over to France as the result
CIRCUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTER 313
of the long and troubled negotiations over the boundary
between Siam and French Indo-China.
The wires of both the governors could scarcely he
content with my daughter's short stay. They would
surely become Christians, if she would remain one
month to teach them. All I (ouM do was to promise
once more 1o come again if iiossihie. The promised
visit was made two years later, but then the " Nfii "
was not along.
From there the only travelled route to Chieng Sen
was by Chieng liai, both hot and circuitous. The al-
ternative was a blind, untravelled track through the
forest, made over forty years before, when Siara 8«it
its hist unfortunate exiwMlilion ajjainst Keng Tung.
Here was a tempting chance to test the old proverb,
Where there's a will, there's a way. The governor
procured a noted hunter to guide us. Every carrier
and driver and servant in the party carried his bush
knife, and all promised to aid if we only would take
the cooler road. It was, however, literally making in
the forest " a highway for oui Uod," over which several
missionary tours have since been made. In the denser
parts of the foreat, we conld force our way only by cut-
ting away branches and small trees, and at times felling
clum[)s of hamluio.
We had a cool place for rest and worship on Sunday.
Onr hnnter had not promised to keep the Sabbath,
anil we were on bis old hunting-grounds, where game
of all kinds abounded. At dawn he was off with bis
gtm, and we saw no more of him till sunset, when he
apfteai-ed smiling, with some choice cnts of be^ hang-
ing from the barrel of his gun. lie had found and fol-
lowed, all day, a lierd of wild cattle— the Kating— and
succeeded in kiUing one of them sear our road, a mile
•Mi AMONG Tlir; SIAMESE AND THE LAO
or more ahead of our camp. Though killed on Sun-
day, we ate it and asked no qnestions for conscience'
sake. It was suirlv the most delicious heef we ever
tasted. We sliould iiuve had a mutiny tlio next day,
bad we proposed to pass on without stopping to save
the meat. And wliat a huge creature it was. It mnst
liav*' wpiylied nearly a ton. Our men extemporized
frames over the fire, and were busy cutting up the meat
and drying it until late at night. Next day each man
went loaded with it to his utmost capacity. What we
could not carry away, the guide stored in the fork of a
tree against his return.
The journey through the forest was shorter and far
more comfortable than would have been the regular
route. When next I travelled it, it had become a
public highway. And us long as I continued to
journey that way, it was known as the "Teacher's
Koad."
Chieng S^n was the limit of our trip. Before reach-
ing it, we began to hear rumours of war — that the city
was blockaded, no one being permitted to enter or
depart. The country population had been called in
to defend the city, etc., etc. We were advised to re-
turn, but kept on. At the gate the guard admitted us
without difficulty.
The disturbance was the aftermath of the previous
year's tax-rebellion, which, as we supposed, was com-
pletely ended before we left home. But a portion of
the insurgents had fled to Keng Tun^, and. gathering
there a lf>rger force, came south again us far as M(iang
Ffing, where they were either captured or again scat-
tered. It was the fear that this lawless band, on its
retreat northw.-.nl, might attack and plunder the city,
that caused the confusion. But the fugitives would
CIBOUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTEB 815
have been fools to linpcr about two weeks after their
defeat, when they kuew that both the army behind
them and the country in front of them would be on
the alert for their capfni-e. The governor waa de-
lighted to gee us, and we were al.le iu some degree
to allay his fears. We were there, too, to speak a
won! of c«)nifort to oar own flock, who, like the rent,
had beeu called in to protect the eitv. The pnnio
gradually subsided, and the people returned to flieir
homes. Owing in part to the unsettled condition of
the country, we did not remain long in Chioig Sto ; bnt
long enough to visit in their homes every Christian
family save one, and to have a delightful communion
season with the church on Sunday.
Our special commission on thia tour was to or-
ganize a church in Chieng Bai, where our next Sunday
was spent. Our governor friend was disappointed that
we had not come to take possession of the flne lot on
the bank of the Me Kok whi(h he had given us. At
his suggestion a house on it was purchased from his
son at a nominal price, with the promise that we
would urge the mission t«) occupy it the next year. On
April 13th, the three sectiims of' the church assembled
by invitation at M6 Kawn. The obstacles which pre-
vented the organization before were now removed.
Fjfty-one communicants and thirtv two non commun-
ing members were enrolled, two ruling elders were
elected and ordained, and the new church started with
fair prospt cts.
We reachoJ home on April 29th. ,if(er an absence
of eighty-one days. We found all well, and the work
prospering along all the lines. It waa none too soon
however. We were just in time to escape the riae of
the streams. At our last encampment on the Md
:m AMoxr, tuk sia.mi:si: aaD the lao
Kuung we had u great Ktorui of wiud and rain, with
trees and branches falling abont m. The trip was a
long one for my diuiKlitcr ; hut her presence umitly en
lianced the imparlance of the tour. On my subsequent
tours through that region the llrst ijueslion always
was, " Did you bring the Nfti? " and the second, " Why
nut?"
On our return we were surprised to find Dr. Mc
Kean in a new and comfortable teak honse, toward
the erection of which neither axe nor saw nor plane
had Ix'on used when we left. The sawmill couM de-
liver at once whatever was needed. Hut iny house had
been seven years in building!
By this time nearly all the Lao cities of Siam had
been visitetl by missionaries. In two of theui — Chieng-
niai and Lakawn— we had established i»ernianent sta-
tions. For the third station, Chieng Rai seemed to
present the strongest claim. Politically it was not so
important as Nan. But Niin, while very cordial to
foreigners personally, was very jealous about admitting
foreign inlluence «»f any kipd. And the absolute con-
trol of the pcojde by the princes of Nan would be an
obstacle in the way of the acceptance of Christianity
there until the princes themselves embraced it. In
(>hien{i Rai province the governor was known to l»e
favourable to the Jesus-religion. Its broad plains and
fertile soil were sure to attract a large immigration
from the south, where population is dense and land
very dear. The city is about equidistant from the tive
cities of Wieng Pa Pao «m the south, Miiaug Fang on
the west, Chieng HOn on the north, Chieng Kawng on
the northeast, and f^hieng Kam on tli^ east. In our
rejtorts to the mission and to the Hoard, these facts
were urged as uiguiiienls foi- tile estabiisfament of a
CIRCUIT TOL H WITH MY DAUGHTER 317
station therr The tiii.'^'sion ^'avc its cordial sanction
to a temporary octui)uuc,y. A lunger tour was author-
ised for the next aeasoD; but the heavy debt of the
Hoard forlMde the expenditure of more than two him-
drtiU and tifty rupees for a temporary house in order
to secure the land which had been given us. Our long
delay sorely shook the good gorernort faith that we
wouhl ever come.
Tlie nrrival of \»'Uiit,' mihhionaries on the tield ren
dered some kind of ph^v^ical and social recreation neces
sary. Croquet had formerly been tried, but It gave
very liM!,- excrcis*'. and had l)een supplanted bv the
better game of lawn tennis. In the fall of 1890, Mrs.
McQilvary prepared a court in our front lot, and in-
vited the missionaries and the small European com-
munity to an "At Home" on Tuesdiiys at 4 p.m.
The game furnished the very exercise needed after a
day's conflnement in school or study. It proved so
beueticial to health nd lo efficiency in work, that the
"At Home" was continued, with occ. sioual interrup-
tions from weather or other causes, for thirteen or
fourteen ^ears. This was Mrs. McGilvary's little con-
tribution to the health and the so( il recreation of the
community in which we lived; and it was highly ap-
preciated.
In August I had occasion to visit Wieng Pa Fio.
Before 1 was out of the Chiengmai plain I had an ex-
citing runaway on my big sadaw tiephai^c. A mother
cow was grazing at some littte distance from her calf.
As the elephant approached the calf, (he inotlier be-
came alarmed for its safety, and rushed frantically
towards it, bellowing to the utmost capacity of her
lungs. Tliis was ip.ite too much for my big timid
beast. He started off at a fearful pac^ whidi the
S18 AMONG THK 8IAME8K AND TUH LAO
driver in v:iin < n<h !iv..iiiv<1 m . - ntinl. 1-orl.inatcly it
w iis nn iin n\H'n i»lain with uo woodn or trwH. The Ramo
L'k jthiint on a itrevioM occanion, when Mm. McOllrary
wan rldtng him, on notne slight aliuiii ruHlu.l in(u
t\ ihnUci "f 1< " '"'i'**;
went trashiug Unough the Biandinj? timber In the
foiwt. In both case* It was nothing but tlu- HtrenRth
of the three-Btrand attan nhih that naved cither bow-
ili.h or riflor. Tl(e oU j.hant's fiiHteHt run it* not a
loiK'. • l»ut a liiud (.r l«»uR swing from Bide to aide.
It ia an awful aenaation. I never was in an earth
qualte, but 1 inMiRinc IIh- two oxp^^riencea must he
Bomewhat similar, with the fear in thia case of being
at any instant daahed from yonr lofty perch to the
ground.
The sporial reason for this trip uas the fear of some
collision or trouble l)etween the povemraent and the
Chriatlana with regard to the Sunday question. Be-
sides keeping their own Sal.f. h, the Christians were
forbidden to do any manual work on the Buddhist
sacred days as well, making altogether eight days in
each month. Had the rule been the outcome of con
Rcientious samples on the part of a religioua people at
seeing their sacred day destH-ratcd, we should have re-
spected their acruplea. But the day was a mere holi-
day, and, except by a few of the more religioi.s, it was
larpplv spent in hunting and fishing. 1 had to re-
mind "the governor of hia beautiful inconaiateiiey. He
would not allow the Chriatiana to uae an axe or a plow
on sacred davs, while the people generally were al-
lowed to kill animals, thus breaking the most stringent
of Buddha'a laws. He muat have felt the force of the
argumfflit. f<»r l>cfor.' the very next sacred day an
order was issued forbidding hunting aad tisbing on it.
CIRCUIT TOUR WITH MY DAUGHTER 819
Bat till the original order wag revoked, strict obedi-
ence was enjoined upon the Cliristians.
The Annual Meeting was held in Laltawn early in
December. Just before it convened, Dr. and Mrs. W.
A. BriggB and Rev. Robert Irwin arrived, together with
Dr. and Mrs. Peoples, returning from furlough. For
the present these were stationed at Lakawn. At the
same time Rev. and Mrs. Stanley K. Phraner were
nearing Chiengmal on (he M6 Ping fork. Bnt our
song of joy over their arrival was destined soon again
to have a sad refrain. The two young brides had
scarcely reached their hnsbands' field of labour— which
they thought was to be theirs also— when they were
both called to a higher sphere.
XXIX
LENGTHENING THE CORDS AND STRENGTH
ENINO THE STAKES
Wini.K in IIk- T'nifed Stish's, Dr. i'copies had
sucfwded iu procuriug a fi>ut of Lao type,
with the neceHs.ni7 equipnwnt for printing.
For twenty three years we h;id used only the Siamese
Scrip! lives and literature. With many present dis-
udvautages, it hacJ some compensations. Those who
eoald rwid Siamese had access to the whole of the
Old am\ N'ew Testiiiiients. Tlie ]»ress was set up in
Chiengmai, and lUn-. D. (1. <:ollins was made man-
ager. The first printing done was Mrs. McGilvary's
translation of flie (Jospel of Mattliew.
My daughter had ix'en sent down to aid the I'hraners
on their liver trip. Word was sent alieatl tliat Mrs.
Phraner was not well. As they drew nearer, her con-
diti<in IxHiinie so criticnl that l>r. MeKeiiii luisteuHl
with all speed to mett them. When she reached
Chiengmai, her condition, while still critical, was more
hopefnl. I was ready to start (.n my tour as soon as
the party arriviHl. When I left home, we were still
hopeful that rest, kind nursing, and medical treatmMit
would set her rif^t again.
During my absence this year I was fortunate en^aiKh
to receive a regular weekly mail from Chiengmai. A
Btatf of engiueerH were surveying a railroad n)ute for
the Siamese government, and had a weekly mail sent
390
STHKNdTHENIXC; THE STAKP:S .{21
to their stations along the line. They were very kind
to include my letters also, which was particularly for-
tunate in that ttw I could have news of tbe inralid
left behind.
I have learned to start on my tours with very flex-
ible plans, leaving much to the Kaidance of provi-
dential ojieuings on the way. On this trip, at the vil-
lage of Pang Knii—which. Ixm ause it was a mile or
two away from ilic road, I had not vissited in seventeen
years— I was delayed three days by a reception so cor-
dial that 1 could not ;>ass on. (»u in.v previous trip a
man from the village, Noi Teeho In name, laine with
his little girl across to our camp and begged us to
visit it. This I could not then do; but he remained
with us til! late at nifjht, and seen cd to bo a be-
liever. I now found that in the interval the man had
kept the Sabbath, and had given such other evidmce
of his sincerity, that we could not refuse his reception
to the communion and fellowship of the cliun li. On
the last night of our stay we had a baptisuial and com-
munion service that was memorable. The man made a
pood confession l)efore many witnesses, and bis little
daughter was baptized as a non-communing member.
As in many other cases, this family had been
driven by trouble to our religion. Originally he was
the slave of a prince in Lakawn. The accusation of
Witchcraft then settled t)n the family; but before they
were driven oif tbe Prince compelled them to borrow
money in order to redeem thciuselves from bim — to do
wbich the man had to give tw(» of his children as se
curity. After a move or two, he was driven by famine
from Lakawn, and came to this village.
One m. rning at Wienp IM ITio I was summoned
in great haste to attend one of the engineers who
t. r,
1 1
i
322 AMONCl THH RIAMESK AND THE LAO
was thoufjlit to have been nearly killed by a fall from
a runaway horse. I found that he had broken a col-
lar-bone, but was otherwise uninjured. I applied all
of my amateur surjiical skill, and set the bone. But
my patient, naturally enough, could not feel quite sure;
and thonght it safer to go down to our hospital and get
Dr. McKean's judgment <»i the case. He toaad the
bone 8et all right.
Late one Saturday evening I reached BSn Pa Hong
in Chieng Rfti province, and stopped with the first
Christian family. Next day 1 learned that in the next
section of the village there was a Christian girl very
low with consumption. Early on Monday morning I
moved on, but was only in time to see a lovely form
and face apparently in the most natural sleep; but
the living soul had departed. I had baptized her two
years before, when she was fourteen years of age.
She had been sick for seven months, and had spent
most of the time in prayer. It made me inexpressibly
sad when 1 learned that her strongest desire was to see
her own "Paw Krn" brfore she departed. On the
previous evening, when she heard that wf had reached
the village near by, she said, " And the Paw Kru is at
Koi Lin's, and I emmot me him!" I preached her
funeral sensM, md mw decottly buried.
The next Sunday morning, while sitting in the Mft
Kawn chapel and pwfwring for service, I looked up
and saw standing on tlif frroiiml before the door some
people in a strange costume evidently not Lao, looking
in as if in doubt whether to enter or not. I immedi-
ately recognised tiiem as belonging to (he Mfiso tril)e,
(\\u\o numfrous in the mountains near b.v. Thcii' ready
acceptance of my inviiatiun ti; come in showed that
btri:n(;thenino the stakes 323
they were waiting to be aMked, and feared only lest
thej might be intrtiden. As the Mflste will be prmn-
incnf in our ujirrjitive of (his and the two following
years, a word of introduction mav be desirable.
They are one of a numerous groii|> of hill tribes which
have gradually followed the mountain ridgea down
from the interior of the continent. They live under a
patriarchal government, if it may be rightly called a
government at all ; and they enjoy great personal free-
dom, though the authority of the clan approaches very
near to ahsolutc despot i.su}. They are worshippers of
spirits, which are held to preside over the universe
and the destinies of men goierally; while as a tribe
they are under the Kunrdinnship of their own " spirits."
They have a twelfth-day sabbath or sacred day, not
very definitely marked. They make a great deal of
their "kin wii.v" or New Year feast, when all com-
mnniontion witli other villages even of Iheir own tril)e
is cut off during the live or seven days of their feasting.
The religioos head of the village is called Pu ChSn,
and the head Pu Chun of a province holds in his hands
the conscience of all his Hock.
Their manner of life is as follows: They select a lo-
cality, the higher ap the better, near the soarce of a
mountain brook. They fell the trws and undergrowth
at llie close of the rainy season, let them dry during
the hot season, and Just before the next rainy season
set fire to the clearing on a windy day. All that is
readily < ombnslihle is consumed, leaving the logs on
the ground. With a small hoe or a narrow spade they
make shallow openings in the earth some tm inches
apart, all over the field, and deposit in each a dozen
rice grains, njore or less. The rains do the rest till the
harvest. The second year's crop is the best, but it is
324 AM()N<; rm: siamkse and the lao
seldom iliai lla'V riiii loniia-U' wilh ihe scrub-growth
for a third vro\\ A tcmiwrary shack ib easily erected,
if possible, (•..iiti-iiiuns to three clearings. When these
are abanduiu <1. they move on and repeat the opera-
tion elsewlierc. l?.v this means all the higher moun-
tains are being steadily denuded of their forests.
Being hound by no s.vsleni of hoary age and venerable
associations, like Uuddhisni or Brahmanism, most of
the hill tribes are very receptive of the Gospel. Their
clannishness, liowever, is such that if they become
Cliristians at all. they come in a l)ody. But it is
very ditlu uU for individuals or families to brealc away
from the clan. At the same time their migratory and
unsettled habits are by no means favourable to their
ediuaiion and civilization. To any other power than
that of the «iospel that would seem to be a hopeless
task.
But to return to our visitors at the chaj)cl. There
were seveu r. eu and boys in the i»arty. The spokes-
man, Cha Pii Kaw, was tall and well proportioned,
with Hie Itearinj; of one who mij^lit be a leader of some
position, lie nndersinml Lao better than most of his
tribe, and through him it was by no means difficult
to draw the others into conversation. They were from
three families that had been driven down nearer the
plain by accusation of witchcraft. They had learned
from our elder that Christians were not afraid of
witchcraft, nor of expulsion from the country. They
had !;lso talked over with him Ihe plan of salvation
for sinful uieu provided in the (Jospel, and had asked
to be informed whenever we should come again. They
readily lonsented to remain through the morning
servii c, which was uiodilied to suit the needs of the new
audicme. it was the first Christian worship they
STRENGTHENING THE STAKES
325
had ever attended, and tliey were evidently pleased.
The Christians invited them t(i share their dinner,
and the muMt uf the ufternuou was given up to their
ingtrnctitni. The hojn were put to reading the cate-
chism and learning to sinji liic Lao version of "There
in a Happy Land." They remained with us till there
was only light ent«ugh left to enable them to tind
their way home.
Early w\t mo: ning we crossed the plain to the foot
of the mountain, where we siruek thi* little brt»ok
along which and in which lay our pathway. The clirib
was a stitV one. hut with u.)lt!e outlooks over tlu' |>1 lin
below. In their little hamli-t there wi'iv three fam-
ilies, or, rather, three divisions of one family, num-
bering twenty-six souls. By their intercourse with
the Christians at lli«> chaiK'l tlic soil had Imm'H pre-
pared for the seed. So from niue o'clock till noon we
addressed ourselves to teaching the elders, while the
liiildreu were IxMoming moic and more interested in
the catechism, and esjiccialiy in the • Happy Land."
While tlie men and Iwiys were thus engaged, the
grandmother and her danghterH were busy preparing
dinner. Wlien all was ready, the sieaminjr white
rice was emptied on a board liue that on which our
housewives knead their bread. W ith it was a vegetable
curry, sweet potatoes steamed over the rice, bananas,
and other fruits, with native su<;:n in cakes for dessert.
The board piled with f(M>d was set l)ef«»re me, and 1 was
invited to partake. They were delighted that I could
eat and enjoy ir.
After all had tinished their meal, the .'xen ises of
the morning weit; resumed, with the women now dis-
engaged and free to listen. Long beforu night Cba Pu
Kaw and bis brother-in-law, Cha Waw, of about the
326 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
Huuit jiKf, I xi)re88ed their Ann belief In the tnith of
our religion, and their accfptunce <»f the Oospel offer
as far as they nn»!erstn<i<l it. Tlie women Raid they
would follow their husbands. The sun was already
gettinj; low when we had worship together before lear-
ill}?. When we tamo to bid our liosts good bye, we
round tiiiit we were to be escorted down by the two
elder men and the boys, lest a tiger might meet in on
the way. It was almost darlc when we reached the
cliiipel. A (lily never to l»e forj^otten:
At the ehaiiel I found letters from Chiengmai bring-
ing the news that Mrs. Phraner's long and painful suf-
ferings were ciiilcl. She died on February 13th. .Vll
that thive aide |diysi» ians eoiild do was done; but in
vain. Her mother and her family were never willing
that she should become a missionary, being sure that
she could not endure the straiu of a missionary's life.
That fart tilled the husbands cup of sorrow to over-
ilowiug. My letter stated that he was beside himself
with grief; that the physicians, and. in fact, the whole
mission, slroii<j;!y advised him to join me on my tour;
and that he wouhl learh me not hmg after the letter.
On the following Friday, while getting the new
chili" ! n iidy. I heard the shout. " There comes the new
(. achei ! ■■ He was w. ru and haggard, and visibly
♦dder than when 1 left him; but making a brave effort
to be cheerful. He said very little of his great loss.
On Sunday the vvli'd*- Mfisn village was on hand hmg
before the hour ior wursiiip. The women came with
their bal»e» tied with a scurf to the mother's back, ac-
cording to their i usf.mi. The news that they were
licKiMie Clirisliiins iiiid spn-iid. and drew a larger num-
ber than usual of our n<»n Christian neighbours to the
services. The Christians, too, were greatly enconr-
STIMONCiTIIKNINti TIIK STAKKS
aged tiiereb^v. In the afteroMun u few of the tribe
from another ril1«Ke were prettent, and liiitened with
HurpriHe to Cliu Tu Kjiw'n tirHt Hcrmon. He had evi*
dcntl^v nitrrcd ii|Min his new fiiith in earnest} and was
not aHliuiiied to Loiii* liiH tehiiiuony.
On Monday we moved on to Gbieng Rili, where I was
to dim t llic r-cniiiviil ai a botHW to the lot which the
tJovcrnor luul oflcml us. But Mr. I'liraiU'i-'H condition
demanded niovi'nicnt und change of Nceue. Arrange-
mentH were, therefore, made to Imtc the house moved
by others, wliiic \\v went mi ;i( mice to t'hient; Wn.
There we found lite (-liao Uparat just returned from a
trip via MAang Len to MAang Sing, some hundred
MiileH or HO to the northeast on tlie other wide of tlie
Mf' Kontj IJiver. lie was profuse in his [u-aise both
of MOung Siug and of the journey thither; and BUg-
gested that it wonid be a fine opening for a mission,
and .\ most interesting tour. Tlie sng^Htion Heemcd
attractive to U8 iMitli. So, jifier a weelc of w«»riv in the
church and in the city of I'hieug Sen, we started for
Mfiang I.en and MAang Sing.
.Muan}: Ix'n is the common market centre of a large
number ut hill tribcH that inhabit the mountain ridges
in all directions round about. All the cities and towns
north of Chieng 8*n hold a fifth day fair or market.
We were furtimate in striking Jiiarket da.v on the Satur-
day of our arrival. Early in the morning people be-
gan to pour into the place from all directitms. The
mountain tribes came out, their beaux and l)ell('.s all
in gala dress, some to buy and sell, and otiiers because
It was their weekly holiday.
From Chienp St^n I had brought along Nin 8uwan,
the Lfi elder, who had coine into closer contact with
these mountain tribes than had our elders from the
328 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LlO
south. lie could make the nieu, and especially the head
men, understand fairly well. To all who understood
the Lao I could, of course, speak directly. We took
our stand at the end of the market, and the crowd
gathered about us. None of them had ever seen a
missionary. None, save some few of the Lao men, had
ever read a book, or knew even a letter of any writ-
ten language. They were iliildren of nature, artless
and unsophisticated. We pressed home the thought,
new to them, that there must be a maker of the world
and of all creatures in it. We told them the old, old
story of the infinite love of God, our Father, and of
Christ, His Son, who suli'ered and died to save us. and
of pardon freely promised to all who believe in Him.
This is the final argument that wins these people.
After the merely curious among the crowd had with-
drawn, this doctrine of salvation from sin held the
more thoughtful, and brought them to our tent in the
afternoon, and even far on into the night. The head
men especially, who were more free to come to me,
expressed a deep personal interest in the new doctrine.
The most interested and interesting man was Sto Ra-
tana, the governor of the K6n quarter of the city. We
met him on Sunday. On Monday we called on him and
spent most of the morning at his house, explaining to
him the i>lan of salvation and dictating to him por-
tions (if Scri|ifMre for him to copy; for by thir time
the Lao manuscript copies which we brought with us
were exhausted. He copied, also, the first few ques-
tions and answers of the Shorter Catechism, hoping
that with these as a key, he could learn to read the
Siamese Gospel and catechism which 1 gave him.
On our return to our teat on Monday evening we
found almost a panic among our people. Some law-
STRENGTHENING THE STAKES 329
less men had lounged iihout the tent most of the day,
asking suspicious questions about how much money
we carried, and how many guns, und whither we were
going from there, etc., etc. The result was that those
who Iiad been most eager for the trip beyond the
Kong to Mftang Sing, began now to beg us to return.
Mr. Phraner, moreover, became uneasy about his bor-
rowed elephant, which would be a great prize for rob-
bers. So, after consultation, it was decided to re-
trace our steps. However disappointing this might be
to me, I had at least learned the road to Mdang Sing
and Mtiang Yawng. The tonr to hotli those places, and
to many others, was only deferred to the following
year, when we might hope to have at least one printed
Gospel in the Lao language, and a tract or two to dis-
tribute. The news of Cha Pu Kaw's conversion spread
far and wide, and was preparing the way for further
work among his tribe.
Leaving Mrtang Len on Wednesday, we breathed more
freely after we had crossed the border into Siam. On
reaching Chieng Sen, Mr. Phraner decided to return
to Chiengmai. He had reaped all the benefit possible
from change of scene. He felt that he <)ii<;lit now to be
in his future home, settling down to a systematic study
of the language. Bnt I greatly missed his pleasant
company.
The object of the missionary's visit to an outlying
church like that of Chieng Sen, is to " lengthen the
cords and strengthen the stakes"— to awaken the
careless, to attract the indifferent, and to deepen im-
pressions already made. Witliin the range of influence
of such a church there are always those who, though
taught, indeed, by its native officers, still need further
instruction by the naissionary — ^who have objections to
330 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
be met and doubts to be resolved beyond the power of
These oflScers to cope with. Not infrequently some one
who ig already a believer has a wife, a husband, or chil-
dren on whom his own final decision dejicnds. These
must be Visited in tiieir h<uiies. Their confidence must
be won and their friendship gained as a preliminary to
awakiMiinj; (lioir interest in our religion.
For Die salie of Hie Cliristians personally, as well
as for the worlc in general, it is important to cultivate
the friendship of the local rulers. It is to them that
the Christians are responsible. And then the Chris-
tian families must be visited, their children instructed,
their difficulties settled, their sick be treated, and in-
structed how to treat themselves in our absence; and
as much Scriptural teachin<r is to be given as our time
by night and by day will permit. But our most im-
portant duty is to instruct toe elders themselves, and
give them an uplift.
When my work in (Jhieng Sen was done, I started
for Chieng Kawng, taking Nan Suwan along, for he
was well known there and in most of the region to be
visited as far as (Hiieng Rai. The Me Taui, already
referred to as the stream which rises from under the
mountain west of the plain, becomes quite a river as
it enters the Me Kong near Chieng S^n. The bottom
land is covered witli reedy grass so tall that a large
elephant carrying a high howdah can be seen only a
short distance away. Here we lost our way com-
pletely, and wandered about bewildered for a long
time.
When finally we reached the stream, its trough was
so deep that we failed in a number of attempts to get
down to tlie water. At last we dui^ down as best we
could the edge of the high sandy bank, and, after much
,1
HTRENOTIIi:Niy(; THE STAKES 331
P'-^^^^t <>n I'i" part, my sadaw trem-
Jlid like an al , gator, dragging his hind legs after him
till, w,th a nughty plunge, we landed ir deep wate^'
It was an awful sensation for the rider. TheXoe
was in a bayon with "back water" so deep as o be
qn. e ovor one's head ; and, unlike the natives^ the rider
could not swim ! The landing on the further Jo JwL
ittle better. There the elephant struggled up Z
bank unt.l he got his forefeet on the edge above Then
wuh a gigantic effort, he drew himself 'npt^dS
that the nder had to hold on for dear'^ife to a^^^
bemg thrown over his head. It was a feat that In y
an elephant could perform, and one would n.nch U"^
mg the operation.
At Chieng Kawng I was sorry to find the governor
tTf^ t l?""*"' ^^''^'^'^^S bis ankle and bruis-
ing the bone. The joint had been barbarously t,^ated
.•as fearfully swollen, and caries of the bone h d /v
dently set ,n. I urged him to take an elephant and
go to our hospital, as the only pcs^^ble chance Tf eu^^
to do so a ter trying somewhat longer the incantations
of a noted sorceress, who was believed to luave g^t
power over wounds. It almost passes belief tlmC!
ai» mte ligent man conld have any faith in it. Yet "ea
son and r.dicule alike failed to dispel the hope that
d c'tJS'' After"': ^ ^-"'^ -^^'^ '^-e befn prl*
While I was in Chieng Kawng, a Nto prince re-
turning from Mfiang Sing brought the news Sat ne^
832 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
tiations then on foot l)etween France iuul Siuni would
put a stop to all further sottkMucnt of that district;
would, in tact, transfer the whole region east of the
M£ KOng to Prance. The Prince of Nfln was greatly
disappointed: but little did we tlii ' that the transfer
would ultimately prove an effectual barrier to our work
also. It is surely one of the anomalies and anachro-
nisms of the twentieth century that a Christian naiion
of Euro[>e should oppose the introduction of Chris-
tianity into a region over which it has absolute control !
On the last night before v e left, all the princes and
ofScers came to see us, and remained till midnight.
They were as loath to have us leave them as we were
to go.
The journey from Chieng Eawng was intaisely hot;
the tliermonictor stand' at lOir in my howdah by
day, and on one night in my tent at 90°. On the banks
of the M€ Ing 1 found native white roses in bloom
in abundance, and brought home with me a plant
which Mrs. McOilvary greatly [irized. for this was the
only native rose I had found in the Lao territory.
On the way to Mftang T6ng I passed the camp of
Chao Wieng Sa, a Nan prince whom I had met in
his home on two former visits. He was overseeing the
felling and running of teak timber down the Mfi Ing
and the M6 Kong to LGang PraL ".ng. ' He had received
and road a Siamese New Testament, was iiuite familiar
with tbe life and teachings of -Jesus, aud admired His
character. A lawsuit afterwards hi ought him to
Chiengmai, where I saw a great deal of him. He was
surely a believer at heart. To me he was willing to
confess that his only hope was in Jesus Christ, but was
not ready to make a public profession of his faith. I
love to think of many such whom I have met as like the
STRENOXnENING THE KTAKES
333
f '.ainaliels, the Nicodemuses, and the Josephs of Christ's
day.
At Mdang T6ng, as Boon as I diwnonnted from my
el phant an ofTiciT met me to enquire who I was. and
to escort me to the public sala. I soon learned that he
was the brother of another officer whom I had found
on the road to Cbieng Kai the .year before, unable to
travel and, apparently, sick unto death with fever. Ilia
company could not linger indefinitely in the forest,
and BO had left him there with two mai to watch him,
and probably to see him die. A dose of calomel, and
the cpiinine which I left with instructions as to its
use, seem to have cured his fever and enabled him to
reach his home in safety. He was himself now ab-
sent, but his brother's heart had been opened to friena
ship', and he did all that he could for my comfort. At
night he invited his friends to the 8&1& to meet me,
and we had an interesting evening. In all these places
Nan Suwan and Noi Siri would often be heard talk-
ing to tue audience after I had retired, and nntil sleep
closed my eyes.
r ,;i. absence from Chieng Rai a case of op-
pre* dt least, of evident injustice, on the part
of thb had led our friend the goveraor to take all
Christians under his personal protection as his own
dependents. The kindness was well meant, and we
thanked him for it. But I doubted its wisdom. The
only scheme nnder which Christianity can really estab-
luah itself in all lands, is to have Christians stand on
precisely the same level before the law as Buddhists
or Brahmans or *he followers of any other religion.
Prom Chieng Bai the elders were sent on to Cha Pa
Kaw's village to see how the Miis6s were getting on. I
followed them in a day or two. When I reached the
A.M<»N(J Tf SIAMKSH AND THH LAO
rhaiM'l ill M(*- Kiiwii, the elderH had returned frou; the
Mu8(i village with a glowing account of their con-
Rtancy. This the tentimony of Noi Taiiya and of all
the Lflo Christ iims ( (tnflrnied. They had not missed a
single Sunday service; old and young alike came, and
mothers, us before, bringing their children tied on their
backs. They had shamed tlif Lfio Christians by their
••arnestness. gcDinj: (.. (lie chapel first, studying hard,
and returning houie late.
On Saturday morning the whole village came down,
and we spent the day logotlier. Tlicy remained that
night as the guesis ol' (lie Luo. The next day, Sun-
day, was largely given up to their instruction. They
all bad renounced the worship of spirits ; they all ac-
cepted Jesus as tluMr Saviour; they were all diligently
learning to read and to sing. Their conduct was most
consistent ; they had a good reflex inflnence upon the
church; and their conversion was an astonishment to
the non-Chri-^tian community.
These Musos had all come, ex[)ecting to join the
church. They had been taught that public baptism —
confessing Christ l)efon men — was the consummating
act, the external seal of their initiation into the priv-
ileges of the church. Although we impressed upon
them that they were not saved by the mere ceremony
of baptism, yet snniphow tlicy folt that wi hout it they
were not quite in the church, and hent e probably not
quite safe from the spirits. Since it would be nearly
a year before they would have another opportunity, it
seemed unwise not to receive some of them at this
time. The greatest doubt was about Cha Waw. Yet
he felt that more than any other he needed whatever
protection and assistance the church could afford him.
He had begun with his whole strength to break: the
stkex(}tiii:mn(} the stakes m
cbaiUH of big opium h:il.i(. (<» stt'k panloii iind be save<l.
He fdt confident that with God's help he would suc-
ceed.
The final decision was ti.at. in nnh>i' to hind them
to the service of Christ, tlioy were all to appear J.i'fore
the Mision and make their profession; hut that only
the two old men should be receired Into full com-
munion, and that one grandson from each family lie
baptized as uou c«»mmuning members. It was Ihought
best to let the others wait till our next visit; though I
have never been satisfied that they should not all have
been admitted .hat day. Three of these Mfiso boys
accompanied me to Chiengmai on my i-eturu, and en-
tered the Boys' School. It is not at all surprising that,
in surroundings so different from ih(»se of their moun-
tain homes, they presenlly grew lonesome and home-
sick. But they were satisfactory pupils, and re-
mained in school long enough to get a good start in
reading and singing.
Cha Waw, after a manful struggle, finally succeeded
in breaking away entirely from his opium— by the help
of prayer and of quinine, as he always believed and
affirmed. When the non-Christian tribesmen with
their opium pipes visited his village, he wa.s accus-
tomed to go down to the elders at m Kawn, to be away
from temptation, and under Christian intluence. He
lived a number of years after this to attest the realitv
of his victory— the only case I have ever known where
the victory was surely won.
That year there was a famine among all the hill
tribes. The upland rice was almost entirely cut off
by a plague of rats. I do not believe in " rice Chris-
tians"; but vhen peo].le are famishing with hunger,
I believe in feeding them, whether they are Christiana
83fl AMONG THR BIAMKSE AND THK LAO
or not. Tlii'su did luil u«k jiiiior fur iikuu*^ (»r for any
other aid. But when I left them, I made arrangiNnent
with tlic I.ai) ('Idem to furnish (hem witli sixty ImckftH
of rice, for wliirh I paid teu rupees iu udvuuit:. They
were very gratefnl for the aid.
Tlie days n\mit among the Mflada that week were in-
Kliiriiij;. (Jhiwiun visions jiidsc Itcfdii' tis of a new
trilje brought into the Chrisliau i-hunh, of which thi'He
were the flrst fniitH. On thin whole tour, indeed, only
nim^ iidiiKs iimi si'venteen < hildren wm* biipli/.i'd. But
iu addition to tlu> opi'niii<; of work ainon^ the MilsAs,
we liati for the tlrst time preached tlie (losjwi beyond
the bordera of the kingdom of 8iam ; und oar longing
eyes were turned toward llie Sipsawn^ I'annfi, and
beyond tlie greut river. By tbiH time tlie ruius had
already I>egun to fall. A new aeaRon waR needed to
fulfil our desires.
Much as I yUvav'- enjoy niy lonj, tours, when my
work is done and my face at last is turned homewards,
the gait of my Midaw seems distressingly slow. On
reacliinjj (Miienfjniai I found all in fair iiealth, and
all departments of work in full «»i>eratiou. But while
1 was still ou my way, word reached me of the death
of Mrs. Briggs in Lakawn, only a month and nine days
after that of Mrs. lMiran(>r. So unexpected was it
that 1 was not even aware that she had been ill. In
answer to my request for a few particulars from Dr.
Briggs, I have received the following, which I know he
will excuse me for transferring to these pa|^ :
" Mrs. Alice Hamilton Bbiogs was from Truro, Nova
Scotia. Although within a year of graduation, she gave up
her medical course and accompanied her husband to the
L?o mission in answer to the call of tin- Board. When she
bade good-bye to the Secretaries of the Board, Dr. Gillespie
wti{i:n(jthening the stakes as?
In hf, r^r^t y... „r. l.aor ..ff tlm,. your husb.nA S
down „„ tlu fidd. that we an glad toL SLt,™. "
Kw rvo „f health.' «> that you havc •
"Beforu leaving Ami ri- an shores how^vor « .
thatthe.....^^^^
to allow l,..r f..m S at hoL ^^^u** ''^ ""^"^^
Saturday she Z cuttinH.; , , f On
baC too Ute e«;:;-heii Xtr^^tnJSl-'"
th Jf^ill 7!^"**' to u« as a family during
.e fall of fh.s year, 1S91, was the arrival of our Z
Lvander w.H. his ,o„n. hndo. and onr .l.ngkZmr-
garet, to carry on the work begun by theS paren^^^
)"r son had ntade special pi^ratlon for tl^l'Zl
the t^cripturos info the Lio lanffnaae. th«i. !- !
pressing need of the minion.
XXX
AMONG THE MUSO VILLAGES— FAMINE
"^OR the tour of 1892 T was to have the company
of r>r. McKoan as lonji as he could be spared
from (Miienpniai, which would greatly enhance
the value of the trip. We bad also three native
evanf^elist-asRistants, and, last, bnt not least, we were
well supplied with Scriptures and tracts in the Lfto
dialect. Our start was made on January Sth.
Our first two Sundays and the intervening week we
spent in Wieng P& Pao, where we established onrselyes
in the new chapel which the people themselves had
built since our last tour. We observed the Week of
Prayer with two chapel services daily, and house-to-
house and heart-to-heart work in the intervals. The
church was foiiiially org:anized with thirty-six adult
members aud thirty children, three ruling elders, and
two deacons.
From Wieng Pa Pao we moved on to the village of
Me Kawn, the centre of our very interesting work of
the previous year among the Muso tribe. The Sun-
day we spent there was a red-letter day in our mis-
sir)nary life. Of it Dr. McKean writes: "This baa
been a bles.sed day. All [of the Musos] desire baptism.
Two boys baptized last year were admitted to the
communion. Eleven other adults and seven children
were bajitized, making Iweni vtwo Musos now members
of the visible church. One Lao girl was received on
AMONG THE MUSd VILLAGES 339
confession, and three Lao children were baptized. Our
Christian Musos were out in full force. A Mus/S of-
fleer and others not Christians attended from another
village Before this we had visited these people in
their home.. We found that thoj had built a good
chapel for their worship, a better building than e.ther
of their own houses. They had been very diligent in
observing the Sabbath, in studying the catechism, and
m worship." '
We could not have been better pleased with our first
success The exclusion of this little group from the
arge villages made it possible and easy for all of them
to become Christians. The whole-hearted zeal with
which they entered the church awakened strong hopes
for the conversion of their race. Cha PS Kaw's
knowledge of the Lao tongue was above the average
even of their head men. It would be a long time
fore we could have another such interpreter and as-
..stant. And he was nearly, or quite, "Seventy yea^
old; so that whatever he was to do in teaching h"
people must be done soon. It was, therefore, thought
best to make a strong effort through him and his fam-
ily during that season.
At our next stopping-place, Xang L^, we came near
having a senous casualty. Our boys were out on a
deer hunt, and one of them bethought him of a novel
^rfn ^« ^'^^^^ a tree,
and had the grass fired on the other side of the open
space. The grass was tall and dry, and the wind blew
ng for the deer that he forgot the fire, till it was too
late to flee. He could climb beyond the actual flames-
but meanwhile the whole air had become like the breath
of a furnace. When, at last, the Are had swept past
340 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
him, and he was able to descend, he was a mass of
blisters. The swiftness of the ru.su of the fire alone
saved his life. Had it been slower, he could not hare
escaped suffocation.
From Nang U we visited a very large Muso village.
It was a steep fc.ot olimb of four solid houis, and, to
make it longer, our guide missed the way. The first
sign of human life we saw was a Muso girl alone watch-
ing a clearing. She Hed for dear life, till, recognizing
Cha Pu Kaw's Muso speech, she stopped long enough
to point the way to the village. Her fleet steps out-
pan ours, and when we reached the village, the people
were already assembling to see the unwonted sight of
the white foreigners. But the community was greatly
disturbed over another matter. One of their leading
officers, it seemed, was accused of being the abode of a
demon that had caused an epidemic of disease. The
authorities were hourly waiting for an order from the
court in Chieng Rai to expel him and his family by
force from the province. They had heard of Cha 1 u
Kaw's conversion, and were anxious to hear from him-
self his reasons therefor— which he gave and enforced
till late in the night. They were expecting, however,
on the morrow a regular condict which might result
in bloodshed, and they evidently preferred that we
should not be there. The head Pu Chan was several
days' journey distant. They would confer together
among themselves and with him, would let us know
the result, and would invite us up again before we
left their neighbourhood.
About midnight a fierce storm of wind and ram
broke upon us to our great discomfort. Our thm tmt
afforded but poor protection. We doubled up our bed-
ding over our clothes, and sat upon the pile under our
AMONG THE MUSO VILLAGES 341
umbrellas, and laughed at the novelty of our situation
and the poor prospect of a night's sleep. But later
the storm passed oflP, and we did get a little sleep.
Our visit to that group of MilsA villages was evidently
not well timed. We took tlie advice of their oflScers,
and returned to NOng lA.
Two days latei- vo readied CliienR S^n. Here we re-
ceived a mail from home, with news that Mrs. McKean
was not well, and other members of the station needed
the doctor's presence. It w as expressed as " the unani-
mous judgment of tlie station that he should return
immediately." We had planned a regular campaign in
the MSsd districts on both sides of the M6 KOng— the
sort of trip in which t!ie medical missionary finds his
best opportunity. But the recall was so imperative
that it could not be ignored. So I was left to continue
the work alone.
The Miisd tribe was about equally numerous in the
mountain ranges on both sides of the big river. On
the east side there were eleven villages. It seemed ad-
visable to take that section first, because they were un-
der Cheng H^n rulers, of whose cordial and sincere in-
terest in our work we were sure. S6n Chai, the head
man of the large village nearest to the city, was a
friend of Nan Suwan, and was strongly inclined to
embrace our religion; but felt the diflSculty of break-
ing the tribal bond. Before this I had made him a
visit of two or three days, and saw clearly that our
only chance of accomplishing anything was to gain all
the head men of the eleven villages. It was actually
easier to win over the whole as a unit than to win it
piecemeal. This was a formidable task to undertake,
but with God's blessing on the labours of Cba Pu
Kaw and Nan 8uwan, it seemed not impossible.
342 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
We set out for the lirst village one moniin!; shortly
aften ton o'clock. 1 1 was four o'clock when we stopped
for rest at the first cluster of houses on the outskirts
of the settlement. The news of our arrival soon
reached the main villa-c. When we started again we
met S.-n Cliai with a regular serenade-party of ineu
and boys with uative reed instruments, blowing their
plaintive dirgelike music, to welcome us and escort
us in. SO..U the population was all assembled— the
maidens in their best sarongs, the mothers and grand-
mothers each with an urchin strapped to her back by
her scarf, the men coming in from their work, and the
inevitable crowd of children. Cha Pii Kaw was al-
ready answering their questions, with NSn Suwan's
sympathetic aid. They were respectfully shy, but there
was no cringing. Sen Chai invited the local Pu Chan
and all the villagers to assemble after their evening
meal to hear the new uoctrines. We first had worship
with singing, and prayer by Cha Pil Kaw. It was the
lirst time thev had heai i the (Ireat Spirit addressed
in their own Muso tongue. There were frequent ex-
clamations of delight that they were able to under-
stand every wonl.
And then, before that motlc-y crowd, drinking with
them their uative tea from an earthen teapot, the men
seated close around, or reclining as they smoke their
pipes, the women and children walking about or sitting
on the ground— we tell of God the great Spirit, the
Creator, and Father of all— the Bible, His message to
men— the incarnation, life, and death of (Christ, and
redemj.tion thn.ugh His blood. Before we get through
you Will hear man after man say, " I believe that. It
is true." OuL man takes up the story from Cha Pu
Kaw'8 mouth and repeats it to another— a story that
AMO\(J TFTi: Ml SO VFLLAOER
343
till now be himself had never heard. Another says,
" N&n Suwan has told us this before, but now we hear
it from the father-teacher."
Before we retired that night Sto Chai said to us.
with the approval of most of his village, " Go on lo
Sdn Bun Tuang and the head men of t'je other villages.
If they agree, we will all accept Christianity. One vil-
lage cannot arcfpt it alone. If we do not * kin waw '
with them — join in their New Year's feast — we shall
be treated as enemies by the whole tribe.''
So, nt'xt morning, we set out to ^"::1 the great Pii
Chan — the religions head of the province. On our
way to his village we fell in with a man to whom Cha
Pfl Kaw was spealcing with great earnestness. I found
on approaching him that he was not a Muso, but a Kui
■ -of a tribe which we had planned to visit later. He
was the Pn Chin of his village. He had already in-
vited us through Chf. Pu Kaw to change our plan,
and visit his village tirst. It was nearer than the vil-
lage we were intending to visit, and we were already
tired enongh with our climb to be willing to stop at
the nearest place.
The village was a large one, as mountain villages go
— of twenty-five or thirty houses, and from two hundred
and fifty to three hundrel souls — in tremM-al act un-
like the JIuso villages we had seen. The f'u', language
also, while different from the Muso, is cognate wiia it,
BO that Cha Pii Kaw could still act fairly well as our
interpreter. His talk with the Pii Chan on the way
had already laid a good foundation for our work in the
evening, when curiosity and interest in our errand
brought the whole village together to h«tr Cha PS
Kaw's new doctrine from his own lips. The news of
his conversion had already reached them, and he had
844 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
made a good impression on the religious head of the vil-
lage—And, then, it was something new to see the Miisd
boys able to read and to sing. Nan Suwan and Cha
Pfl Kaw led in prayer, the one in Lfto and the other in
M086. Then our religion was explained in its two
leading ideas— rejection of the spirit-cult, and accept-
ance of Jesus for the pardon of sin and the life eternal.
Questions were asked and answered.
At last the Pii Chan suggested that, while we con-
tinued our reading and singing with the women and
children, he and the men, with Cha Pfi Kaw, withdraw
to a neighbouring house and talk the matter over. It
was evident that they would be more at their ease by
themselves, unawed by the presence of the foreign
teacher. For some two hours the debate continued.
I could hear their earnest voices from the neighbour-
ing house, with only now and then a Lao word that I
could understand. Then they returned to make their
report. With orioital politeness, they expressed their
gratitude to the " great teacher" who had come so far
and at such expense, and had brought with him a fel-
low-mountaineer of theirs, to teach them, creatures of
the jungle, the way to happiness. They had talked
these matters over, and understood them somewhat, but
not fully. Some were greatly pleased with the teach-
ings, and believM them true. Hut they could not yet
come as an entire village, and they dared not separate.
Next morning we parted as friends. They were glad
that we had found the way to their village. " Be sure
to come again! " That I thought surely I should do;
but this proved to be my only visit.
At the Sen Luang's village, where the great Pfl Chftn
lived, we had the same experience— a good reception,
many apparently inter^ted and anxious to escape their
AMONG THE MUSO VILLAGES 345
own spirit-worsbip. A number of tbe bead men said,
" If suck and sach a village accepta the Jesna-relic^on,
we will." But no one coul^^ be found to face the clan
and make a start.
Tbiuking tbat our native evangelists might get at
tbe heart of the people all tbe better if left to do it
alone, ami l)oing anxious to got my mail from home, I
went down on Saturday to Nan iSuwan's to 8[jend the
Sunday there with the Christians. On Tuesday, to my
disappointment, tbe evangelists returned to me dis-
couraged. They were convinced that in the dis-
trict east of the Me Kung River, uo break in tbe
solidarity of the clan could be accomplished that
season.
But it was important not to leave these people with
tbe impression that we had abandoned them. I bad
left Sto Chai's village with the promise to return. So
I went up with the Must) Christian boys, and spent a
last night with tbem. The village again assembled,
and we had an interestiug evening. The S^n was
greatly disappointed that none of the other villages
would join him. But the New Year was at hand, wheu
the clan must be unbroken. They would wait anotb r
year, and try to get the other villages to join them. On
the whole, I was encouraged. When we left them we
were escorted out of the village to the music of their
pl<iintive flutes, more like a victorious than a van-
quished army.
After 11 day or two with the Chieug Sen church, we
visited the ridge to the southeast of tbat city, between
it and Chieng Kawng. Our experience there was but
a repetition of that from which we were just come —
cordial receptions, night audiences, manifest interest,
individual believers, anxious consultations, promises
846 AMONG THE SIAMErtK AND THH LAO
f„r (bo next year; but the tribal bond was too strong
to Ik' bniken. v u *.
But CUa pa Kaw was anxious that we should not
pass by his own mountain villages ou thf MA Kok. So
we turuL'd southward again toward Chieug Kai. ThiH,
moreover, was uue of tliose famine years, such as we
have already encountered in our story, and shall en-
counter vet again; niany people wore on the verge of
starvation. In pUuos we could not get food for our own
men And famine was beginning to be followed by
disease and death. This was a serious obstacle to
our work. . . .
\notber serious obstacle was the use of opium, whicft
became n»ore prevalent the further west we went along
the m Kok range towards Mftang Fang. We pres-
entlv reached villages where the poppy was cultivated,
until, in the last village, men, women, and boys, and
sometimes even girls, were its slaves. Fevers and dys-
entery prevail during the rainy season. These i)eople
have a vorv s.anty i)harmacopaiia, and no antidotes
whatever for these diseases. Opium in some form is
probably their surest remedy, if any persons told me
that they began bv using it in sickness. As sickness re-
curred the habit grew, until they were fast bound m
its chains. These facts largely determined the char-
acter of the instruction we gave, and made ouv tour
a kind of anti opium crusade. Encouraged and disap-
pointed at every village, I was still tempted on by
visions of capturing some large village that would
orovo a more efifective entering wedge for tb- tribe than
Cba I'u Kaw's poor little hamlet. The six weeks so
spent were at the time the most novel and exciting, as
well as most arduous, of all my missionary experiences
BO far.
AMONG THE MCs6 VILLAGES 347
We took both the old MuhA men as aHsiHtonts, and
the younger ones aa carriers for onr eqnipment. Oar
first day's journey was a fair sample of what we had
to do continually. In many places it would be a mis-
nomer to speak of the track we travelled as a path.
Wf left the plain in the morning, and it was half-past
two in the afternoon when we readied tlie first summit.
It was tive o'clock when, desperate with thirst, we came
upon a iowing brook. There was, then, still another
hard climb before we saw our long looked-for first vil-
lage ahead. And, in general, because of the habit these
people have of piuatiug their villages upon the very
highest points where they can get water, the joumqr
frttm one of these villages to another in jdain sight,
and, apparently, but a short distance away, would take
hours of the hardest travel. Sometimes we would walk
weary hours through rain, or through bushes as wet as
rain, to visit a village; only to .valk back again after
sitting three hours in wet tlothef trying in vain to
awaken some interest in old or young.
One of the most interepting, and, at the same time,
one of the saddest, cases we m-'t was that of MQn
Kamprai, the head man of a village which clearly bore
the impress of his character in the intelligence and in-
dustry of its inhabitants. From opium he had kept
entirely aloof until, only a few years before this time,
under the stress of a severe illness, he began to take it.
The poor man now realized that he was becoming a
wreck, but seemed to have no will-power left to make
the effort to break away from tlie habit. He was much
interested, however, in his two fellow-tribesmen whom
I had brought as my assistants; and Cha Waw's ex-
ample seemed to afford him a faint gleam of hoi»e. If
we would stop a week and teach his jteople, and would
34S AMOXd THE SIAMESK AND THE LXO
stand by to aid him, he would try. If succetwful, he
would surely become a CbriBtlaii--and then hii village
would be the one we had been hoping for to free itaelf
from the tribal bond, and become Christian.
The experiment was, indeed, pathetic. Removing all
temptation, he began with a desperate determination
to succeed. We encouraged him with human sympathy
and the hope of divine aid. We pushed as far an we
dared the use of a tonic which Dr. McKean had given
me for iroch cases; and it aided him i)erceptibly. He
held out njanfully for several days. lUit, at last, in an
evil hour, he could endure the torture no longer, and
before we knew it, he had resnmed the use of the dmg.
For two nights he had not slept. In his own ex
pressive language, it was not his eyes, but bis heart
that could not sleep. Poor man ! his sufferings must
have been as near those of the infernal regions as it
is possible to experience in the body. And then his
abs.)lute wreck of mind, and the contempt he felt for
himself when he gave up the struggle as hope-
less!
We ^ iiared no labour to rea b the homes of these
people, or their hearts. We tn. J to become Musfis to
the Mtlsds that we might win them. Sometimes we
had to sleep in their huts- -on a floor raised two or
three feet from the ground, which the dogs shared
with the family, while the pigs and goats were on
the ground beneath. In the centre was a raised fire-
place on which the native teapot always boiled. Sleep-
ing-mats or thin bedding lay about on the floor, and
on this, before bedtime, some of the inmates wonld lie
down and fall asleep even while listening to the con-
versation. -But everywhere the tribal bond waa too
strong to be broken.
AMONV; THE Mf s^ VILLAOEB 340
By this time the rains had net in. The trails— and
tfc« leechM that infested them— were getting worse and
wowe. Boon the tomnt-ttrctiba woald become im-
pa88al)ie. We n:iist return while yet we could. Oop
•Jix weeks' wanderings we retrace<l in four days of
conatant tramping. It hai been a hard trip for all of
UR. I myself bad a touch of ivrer. It aeeined good
on reaching our camp to have once more the luxniy of
a chair and a table. And then to be on the sadaw's
back traTelling homewards, and to meet a good mail
on the way! My three-score and fourth birthday waa
spent in the forest, and I reached home safely
on the 18th of May, after an absence of nearly five
moDtha.
The peninsola of Farther India is largely exempt
from the terrible scoarge of famine which has become
almost chronic in Hindustan, its greater neighbonr on
the west. There the population is so numerous that
the normal production of food is just sufficient to sup-
ply its needs. Eron a local or a partial failure of the
crops must produce distress. Siam, on the contrary,
is happy in that it not only produces an abundant sup
ply for its own people, but is a granary for the sur-
rounding countries. The worst that has ever been ex-
perienced in Lower Riain in years of greatest scarcity,
has been the necessity of checking the export of rice.
The annaa! floods there cover the whole country, so
that a general failure of crops is, hnmanly speaking,
impossible.
In the northern states the land is higher; and con-
siderable portions of it, being above inundation, are
directly dependent upon the seasonal and local rains.
But with a population by no means dense, this very
350 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
diversity of the cultivated arras is a soiirco of safety.
A season of heavy rainfall wiiich drowns the lowland
rice, is apt to prove exceptionally good for the uplands.
And, on the other hand, a season of liffht rainfall,
which cuts short the upland crop, is apt to be a good
season for the Hooded areas. And in considerable sec-
tions of the country there is the chance that a second
crop in the same season may make Rood the loss of the
first. Tliere is a further security also in the fact that,
until communication with the coast becomes snch as to
make exportation profitable, the excess of fruitful years
remains unconsuined in the country, to supi 'y the need
of loss fruitful ones. It thus comes about that scarcity
amounting to a real famine cannot result from the
failure of crops in any single year. It requires two
consecutive failures to produce extensive suffering
among the very poor, and three to result in a real
famine.
This last, however, was the case in 1892. in m.w
there was a light crop throughout the land, with less
excess than usual to be stored. In 1891 the crop was
lighter still. In the eastern provinces, particularly in
Lakawn and Pre, there was very little rice to be reaped.
Famine conditions began there long before the time
for harvest. People were scattering off in squads or
by families into Chiengmai and the northern provinces,
begging .1 dailv morsel. They were poverty stricken as
well as famishing. The distress led the brethren m
Lakawn to make an appeal to friends in the United
States for a famine fund. Quite a liberal response,
amounting to several thousand dollars, was made to
this call, largely by the friends of the L5o mission.
The relief was almost as timely for the missionaries
as it was for the famishing people. Otherwise they
AMONG THE MUSO VILLAGES 351
scarcely could have lived through the long strain on
their nerves and sympathies caused by the constant
sight of sufferings which th^ could not even in part
relieve.
The province of Chiengmai could have met its own
needs until the new crop came in, had it not been for
the constant draft upon its reserves to meet the de-
mands of Lakawn and Pr6. But, between high prices
offered and pity for the less fortunate, those reserves
were steadily drained away, uatil, during the latter
months of the vear, famine was upon us in Chiengmai,
too. Bands of men from destitute villages, maddened
by hunger and unable to buy food, began to roam about
the country by night, or, sometimes, by day, and seize
rice wherever any little remnant of it could be found.
The authorities were powerle.^8 to restrain them or to
keep order. The condition of the more destitute prov-
inces can better be imagined than described.
At last the relief committee in Lakawn were asked
if they could not spare us a small portion of their
fund, for it seemed that their condition could not ie
much worse than ours. A letter from Dr. W. A. Briggs
brought us three hundred rupees, but with the follow-
ing caveat — the italics are his :
" Wherever we can reach the absolutely starving, that is
a place to invest. We do not pretend to relieve all the
suffering. Now, if the need in Chiengmai, or in the dis-
trict mentioned, is so great that people are actually dying
from s>tarvatiuii, and those now living are living on such
stuff as the sample enclosed (cocanut-husks, leaves, bark,
etc.), with never a grain of rice, then I would advise
you to form a Famine Comn'ittee, and go into the business
as we have done. The actual starvation must be attended to,
no matter wlo-r^- it if. But our saddest experience is within
Pre. Some one should be sent there at once."
352 AMONG THK SIAMESE AND TFIE LAO
The scenes reported from Pr^ were harrowing. I
will not pain the reader by dwellinR upon them. One
happy result followed the efforts uf the brethren who
went to the relief of that district. While administer-
ing to bodily wants, they preached the Gospel, making
such an impression that there was i. strong demand
for a permanent station there -which was established
the next year, with Dr. and Itivs. Briggs as pioneer
missionaries.
It should be stated that, toward the last, the Siamese
government sent up supplier A rice; but, because of the
distance and the difficulty of transportation, not much
reached the sufiCering people in time to help them; and
much was lost in passing through the hands of so many
ofBclalB.
XXXI
CHIENG RUNG AND THE SIPSAWNQ PANNA
T the Annual Meeting of the mission in December,
1892, the broad field of Tai peoples north of
^ ^ the frontier of Siam was discussed, and Rev.
Robert Irwin and myself were appointed to make a
tour into that region as long and as far as in our
judgment might bo deemed wise. The tour occupied
nearly five months — from January 3d to May 25th,
1893. This time we went fairly well supplied with por-
tions of Scriptures and tracts, and a good outfit of
medicine. Of quinine we carried a hundred ounces,
and returned with less than twenty-five We relied on
the medicines for the welcome they never yet had failed
to win for us. And Mr. Irwin hnd a cornet which did
excellent service throughout the tour. For riding I
had my big sadaw " elephant, and Mr. Irwin bad a
pony ; so we could exchange mounts at our convenienct.
I pass over the earlier portion of our route, already
so often described, and the two weeks spent among
the hill-tribes visited on previous trips.
The chief object of our trip was to visit, in their an-
cient homes, two northern tribes of the Lao rac* — the
K6n and the Ld — ^from which very many of onr
parishioners in the southern provinces derived their
origin. For, under conditions which lasted very nearly
down to our own time, there was almost constant
predatory warfare going on in this northern conntry —
861
354 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
stronger states raiding the weaker, and sweeping away
th- entire population of the districts they overran, to
plant them in their own realms. Thus whole villages,
and even entire districts, in the LSo provinces of Siam,
are peopled by the descendants of such colonies of cap-
tiver We found it unadvisal>le to attempt both visits
in the same season, and the Lfl were the more ac-
cessible, living on the nearer slopes of the Kdng
valley. We went up on the west of the river along
the edge of the r.ritish territory, now known as the
South Shan States, and beyond it into Chinese terri-
tory, as far as Chieng Bong; ^ then, returning, wo made
a somewhat wider sweep to the east of the river,
thrcngh French Indo China; finally recrossing the
river at Chieng Lap, where we struck once more our
ontgoing trail. • 4^ < „
After leaving Mftang Lcn, the utmost point of a
former trip, we travelled awhile by a fine road along
the summit of a ridge so regular as to seem almost like
an artificial embankment, and affording noble views
over the vallev. At Wieng Mar, a recent offshoot of
Mflang Yawng, we spent a most interesting Saturday
and Sunday. Here the Prince-Governor sent to ask if
he K.uld not put up a sala to shelter us during our
sta>. In the morning we preached in the market^
place, and afterwards I distributed medicine and talked
with the people till noon, when I had to flee away to
rest under the shade of a big tree by the river. The
people seemed hungry for the bread of life. I could
not supply all the requests made for copies of the
Scriptures. . ,
Mftang Yawng, the older and larger city, we reached
iThis name eppeart on some maps as Chieng Hung, initial r In the
North being genei»lly pronounced as ft.— Ed.
CHIENG RUNG AND SirSAWNG PANNA 355
on Monday forenoon, after a two hours' ride. An of-
ficer met us at the gate, and showed us to the saia.
When the Chao Mawm heard of our arrival, he sent
for us, meeting us at the door. We had a very inter-
esting interview, but he was not inclined to talk on
the subject of religion. He told me that the city and
district had been entirely depopulated in 1809 by a
force from Chiengmai, when " nothing was left behind
but the ground." ' It had recovered itself, however,
and its population was now larger than that of Lam-
pun. With Nan Suwan I visited the market and the
Court. At the latter place I learned that the British
Commissioner would arrive the next day. Knowing
that everything would be in confusion, we decided to
move on the next morning.
From this point on, our elephant was everywhere an
object of great interest. Sometimes the people climbed
trees to get a better view of him. A long day's march
broui^t us to Mftang Yu, picturesquely situated on
high blufifs, with deep gorges running down to the
LQi. Here we remained only overnight, leaving early
the next morning for Mtlang Lfli, which we reached
about noon. That evening we had a large attendance
at worship, the governor and oflicials remaining till
after eleven o'clock. The original population of both
these districts, as well as that of Mflang Yawng, are
now scattered throughout the provinces of Chiengmai
and Lampiin.
1 This Incident is ft striking illustntion of the methods of warfun
la those diiys. The expedition in question was directed against th«
Burmese, who liad established themselves in Muang Yang some
sixty miles or more to the nortli-west. On its way it passed through
Muiing Yawng, where it was loyally received. But being defeated
at Muaug Yiing, it fell back upon Milaiig Yawng, and there gathered
up all the inhabitants and swept them off to Chiengmai to prevent
ttt^ fallhig into the haada <rf tiM eaony!— Bd.
856 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
Next moraing we crossed the beautiful stream on a
raft, while our el. p'.ant took the ford r>«ring the
fcrenoon we came ui.on Captain Dav.s of theCo^mte-
Bioner's staff, who had been Bent to make a detonr by
Mflanp SiDR, and was then on his way to join his party.
He w.^ resting! hy the roadside, ill with fever, and was
clad to get from me some ciuinine.
The following day, Saturday, brought us to mmg
LQang, the largest and n.ost important place in the
valley and the southernmost of the old Sipsawng Panna
confederacy. The valley population is wholly Lfl.
There is scarcely a Ng!u (Western Shan) to be found
east of the Ken,- Tung watersi.ed. Here were the best
roads xve had seen anywhere in Farther India, with
a real arched bridge of stone across the stream at
the entrance to the city, l^arlv next m.>rn.ng we we e
awakened by a noi.v crnw.l about our tent, anxious to
see us. It was the great market day, so, iriBtead ot
attempting a regular service in camp, we chose the
market place. There, wbettier reading or speaking, we
always had some attentive listeners.
On Monday our road lay for many miles along the
summit of a low ridge on which at intervals were
fifteen large villages, just at the edge of the long
fertile plain, where are the rice-fields that feed the
country. I never saw in all my touring anything qu. e
to equal that row of villages. It seemed too bad to
pass through so many without even stopping.
On the fourth day from Mftang Lflang we reached
Chieng Rung, the limit of our northward journey, its
location is strikingly beautiful, on a high steep bluff
overlooking the Kong River, which sweeps m a
majestic curve about its base. It is m f we tern-
tory, and is ruled by a Chao Fa appoint., rom Ynn-
CH11:NU Kl'NiJ AM) S11'«A\VNG I'ANNA 357
nan. An ofliccr from Vnnnan was tliore iif (ho Uiiie
collecting tribute. The iutiuence of the Kngli.sh wu»
already felt there. Mdang CM, to the weHt, bad
rebelled a<:ainst the Chao Fa, who thcreujion sent out
ua expedition which capture*! and hr(iuv;lit away some
three hundred families of the inhabitants, lint Kng
land cannot allow border warfare to go on along her
frontier. An I^nglish oliicer appeared on the scene, and
the thing was stopped.
At Chimg Rnng we were still in the midst of an
area of Lao speaking people — an area which extended
far beyond on every side. 1 jjave a i)ortion of Scrip-
ture to a LQ whose home was ten days' journey north-
ward ; and others to men from as far to the east and to
the west.
We had an interview with the Chao Fa, by previous
appoip^ nt At the door the officer suggested that
we p\ onr shoes. We replied that it was not our
custoi. .1 wa.s unnece.ssary. He looked very doubt
ful, but said no more, and we walked in. The Chao
FS received ns courteously. We took him to be a man
of no great strength of character, about forty years of
age, and somewhat weakened by the use of opuim. He
asked whether we had not some antidote to enable him
to stop its xae. He listened attentively to our state-
ment of the object of our coming, and said, "You are
merit-makers, and that is a good work."
When we called at the court, the presiding officer
had a wise suggestion as to how we might further our
purpose and establish our religion in the place — a sug-
gestion evidently not originating with himself, but
from a bi^er source. " The favour of the Chao Pa,"
said he, " will be necessary and all-sutHcieut. I see
you have a fine elephant. Just make a present of him
858 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LXO
to the Chao pa. He will be deliKhted, aud your road
will be all smooth." I t,.ld him that 1 was an old man,
far fn.m home, and dependent on the elephant. Bo I
could not i.ai t with him. This same suggest on waa
pressed upon us several times afterwards, by the In-i.
est officials, and quite up to the hnui of our departure;
though its form was modified from a gift to a sale, l
became at last a little anxious about the result, and
was somewhat relieved when we actually got away
Wi(lu»ut 1..SS of the elephant.
1 mav mention at this point an incident of this trip
which never came to my knowledge till thirteen jx>ars
later, showing Iw.w we were providentially npared from
what w.)uld have put a sudden and tragic end to our
tour and to our lives. When Dr. 8. C. ^^opV^J^n^
Dr W. C. Dodd were in Keng Tung in March, 190., tht
presiding ..mor of the Court told them that he had
met Dr. Metiiivary and Mr. Irwin on their way to
Chieng Uung; that when the people of Chieng Uung
first heard that some foreigners from the s..utlj v .f
e.„ rnutr to their capital, they planned to kill and
plunder them. But when they saw that the foreigners
rode elephants and were accompanied by earners they
d,.ri(ksl that this was probably the advance guard of a
formidable army, which it might not be well to at-
tack. And then, he said, the kindness of the mis
sionaries so completely won their hearts, that all
thoufil.t of murder and plunder was given up.
Uur return wa.s to be through the region to the
east of the M6 Kong. Its northern cities si.il be
longed to the Sipsawng ranna. Hut the .-est of .t was
t.MTitorv recently ceded by Siam t.. France. Ihe gov-
erning race-the people of the plains-were eveijr-
whei-e Tai, speaking the L5o language and using the
CUIENU KUNO AND B1I'SA\VN<J TANNA 3G9
L;lo litornturo. On i*H mountain ridRcs dwelt ntimer-
ouH bill tribt'H, cMpcciull^' the Kuniu and the Lumet.
The route we were to take croMWH the river two days'
journey south of (Miieng Rung; h(» wc had at first to
retrace onr Rteps. We left I lit" city on Monday, March
13tb, Hafe from unHeen |dotH, and with our elephant.
On the second day, after leavioK our upward road to
strike across to the rive r, we entered unexj»ectedly a
large village, where we u»et with a reception ludicrously
hostile. At every door mea were standing; with guns in
their hands. We were surprised; but, supposing that
it might he iiiuster day or sonielhin>; of the sort, we
passed innocently aiong, without challenge, to the
Monastery, where we dismounted and began to unload.
Then guns were laid aside and the liead man and vil-
lagers came up to see us and to offer assistance. They
bad beard that foreigners were coming with elephants
and men, whether for peace or wut- no one knew. So
they had taken the precaution to he ready. When
tbey found out our peaceful errand, they were ashamed.
We had a pleasant visit and worship with them that
evening.
The next stage of our road was had. In some
places we had to cut our way through, and there were
difficult passages of brook-beds and gorges. We
reached the river at Chieu^ Tla in a pouring rain, and
it rained again at night. The next day was the
Buddhist sacred day, and we were awakened early by
the crowd of merit-makers and worshippers — the
women and girls, as usual, in their head-dresses and
gay colours, and all anxious to see the elephant and
the white faces.
It was 10:30 that morning before we got
away. Ourselves, our men, the saddles and luggage,
360 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
were ti.iiinl <»vcr bv Ibo forry. Nan Suwan alone
faced tbo «U'fp river on tbe Badaw to guide bim
tbrougb. At ilie Urst i.lunge all of the elephant
his tnink, and half ot the rider, went out of «iRht.
Thence <.n tliev wmt. ik.w np and n. w down, till they
stniRKled out on the further shore. Hueh an effort is
very exhausting to the animal, and he has to have ft
good rest and breathing spell after it.
Mftang Ham, on the eastern bank, is larger than its
neighbour on the west. Its governor was a Ohao
Mawm, next in rank to the Chao Fft of Chieng Rung,
and his wife was the Chan Fas sister. I had a long
talk on religion with the wife. It was a new thought
to her that any one could be greater than the Buddha,
though he was neither Creator nor Saviour, but only a
man. It is unnecessary continually to state what was
everywhere the case throughout this trip; namely, that
we iiad go.»d audiences and interested hearer* We
left in every place some books in the bi;nds of thoae
most likely to nse them; though we could have used
to advantage many more, if we had had them.
From Mfiang Ham two days' march brought us on a
Saturday to MOang N'nn, the most important city on
our route, and, therefore, a most desirable place to
spend Sunday. Tbe city is in the valley of the Nam
Ban. It bos well paved streets, and a very large
monastery ..n an eminence above, where we camped.
The abbot gave us a hearty welcome, and did all he
could to make us comfortable. At our night worship
the monks and other visitors were very attentive.
On Sunday morning we called on the head officer of
the Court, and had a pleasant conversation with him,
for he was both intelligent and inquisitive. Just as we
were ready for our own morning worship, the t'hao
CHIENQ RUNG AND RIPSAWNO PANNA 361
Muwui, a relative of the Cbau Fa ft>r Cliieng Rung,
M»t to aak XM to call. We lent word in reply that it
was our hour f<ir wnrsbip, and asked wlicllifp lie wixild,
perhupH, like tu lia\e um wornbip iu hi.s i^'sidence. Uis
aii8v.-er wu8 a curdiul invitation to come aud do so.
The Prince was young and very pleasant. He had a
HpnciouH lidUHo, and noon ho bad it filled with bin
own family, biH otlicerH, aud hia people. Mr. Irwin,
as Qinal, had his comet. We find that singing our
Gospel bymnfi, with a Nhort exiilanatinu nf their cen-
tral truths, is a better way to hold a mixed crowd
where women and children lorm a goodly proportion,
than is a regular serrice. NOn Snwan's Lt dialect
served a very good turn. We had a very interesting
morning, and we were cordially invited to hold a
similar meeting at night, when many who had been
absent in the morning might attend.
At night the house was crowded with a remarkable
gathering, for one could hardly call it a congregation.
The invitation, the place, the attendant circumst&nces,
were all unique. We sang and pravru j'tid preached
with as little restraint as if we bad been iu our own
church in Cbiengmai. The part of the serv which
most impressed them was Nfin Snwan's prayer — a di-
rect appeal to a Person unseen, whom be addressed as
Father, Redeemer, Saviour, and Friend. Seldom have
I felt so strongly for any as for these, that they were as
sheep needing a shepherd: hungry souls asking for
bread, and getting that which satisfied not. lOthical
teacbiitg they bad in abundance, but no Divine Voice
asking, " Wilt thou be made whole? " or saying, " Thy
Bins be forgiven thee. Arise and walk!"
Next morning we made our formal call upon the
Prince; but be sent to our camp for our books and
/
m
[cfl
862 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
the comet, and soon we had another eongit-ation, and
were having worship again. In the afternoon the
Prince made us a long call. Then there was a con-
tinuous stream of visitors, mostly for medicine, and I
vaccinated a number of i-eisous. Tho mn of the ch.ef
officer of the Court, a tine young man, was almost ready
to come with us to Chiengmai to study our religion
further. His father, too, was willing tliat he should
come. The voung man la-ouiised that he surely would
do so next vear, if we eame again. And now, seventeen
years after these events, it saddens me to think no mis-
sionary has ever been there since. An oecui.an.y,
then, of those oi>en S psawng I'anna States would have
turned the Uauk of Fi'emh obstruction, and have en-
sured an entrance from the north.
Early on Tuesday n.orning we left Mrtang Nun, after
•i visit all too short. The Prince, with his ollicers and
a large crowd of peoi.le, were on hand to bid us good-
bye That day we found our track very much ob-
.Jructed by the jungle gn.wth, and had some d.thculty
in cutting our way through. Another complication
presently arose in the illness of my associate, Mr.
Irwin. An attack of iudigestiou developed m'xt .lay
into sy.npt..m« of dysentery, which made further travel
for the time impossible. So we were laid up until the
following Tuesday at Mftang Wto-aud anxi..us nights
and days they wore. Milder measures failing, we had
to lesoVt at last to a most heroic treatment which 1
had seen usetl in the hospital, namely, large doses of
ipecac. By this means the disease was got under c.m-
trol- and by care and dieting Mr. Irwin was able at
U'ugth to continue his journey on my elephant, though
throughout the rest of our tour he was far from being
well.
CUIENG RUNG AND SIPSAWNG PANNA 3C3
At Mfiang Pong, one of tlio three largest cities on the
route, we again stopped over fr u, Thursday night till
Tuesday. Here I had an a. a i-ohiil on th-^ night of onr
arrival, but, with free use f quinine md a little rest,
I escaped further attack. .e a great deal of
fever in the place, and I spoui .navL lime in minister-
ing to the sick.
On Saturday I called upon the Prince and his chief
officer. I was told that the city furuished Uve hundred
men for the Chao Fa's expedition, and 'lad seventy
villages within its jurisdiction. In former times it
had been raided by au expedition from Nan. and some
of the Nan villages to this day are jjeopled by descend-
ants of those captives.
On Monday the Pi ince and his chief officer made us
long calls. The I'rince had never seen a repeating
rifle, and seemed incredulous that it could tire twelve
shots in unbrolcen succession, till I fired three by way
of demonstration. Tlis look of surprise was ludicrous.
He must have the gun, he said, to protect his coun-
try, and began bidding for it. At last he offered a
fine riding pony, which I accepted. He was delighted,
saying that we two should always be brothers. If I
should never come again myself, he would welcome and
aid our assistants. Four years later I did visit the
place, but the Prince had beeu killed.
On Tuesday we reached Miiang Mung, which proved
to be one of our most hopeful places. ^Sitting in front
of our tent, with the whole village about us, we talked
till midnight. I had a sore throat, but our assistants
were inspired with enthusiasm. At last we almost
had to drive the crowd away.
Mfkang Sing was the objective < f this portion of onr
tour. I first became interested in it when it was about
364 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
to be occupied as a dependency of the province of Nan.
Mr. Phraner and I made an attcn.i.t to i-each it in 18yi,
but were turned back. Then, again, it seemed about
to fall into lUitish hands, under some old claim by
Burma. Even at the time we were there, its status was
still uncertain. It fiave evidence of having once been
a large city, and still had a very large territory under
its jurisdiction. Its earlier importance was retlecUd
in the title borne by its ruler. (Mu... Ffi -Lord o .he
Sky_a title borne by no other LCi ruler ««»tbof
ChLg Rung. My intex^st in ^flang Sing had been
deepened by acquaintance with a pat.ent in the Ch>e g-
mai hospital, of whose case Dr. McKean has kindly
furnished the following account :
" This Pravu Siiifrhanat, a prominent man in the local
goverun>ent. had been for years a great sufferer i^cm^^^^l
calculus and had tried all kinds uf -.nnedu. w^t^out avad
Fearing his disease had been asioned by offenduig the
.pTr s in the building of a new hous.. he tore the house
low This pave him uo relief. Although he had spent
t^^in the nLast.ry. and had taken all the ^^/J^
order, he concluded to re-enter it ni the hope of being cui^
uf hi; umlady, spending again -oaths u. tlu- .nonaste^.
A travelliu^ merchant who had himself been eur .] of cal
cuius by au operation in the n.ission hospital in ^hiengmai.
advTsed the Praya to ,o there for relief This he determined
to do. not without Kn-t <,p,n.ition trou> the ^'"^
f,.,n. his own fannly. But he was determmed. Lie sold h s
possessions, and started with 800 rupees. His J^^^f^^J!
oug and painful. For weeks or eve.i months at a time be
could not travel on account of great pan. Once he was
beset by daeoits at night. A part of h.^ money and all lus
'"u! stolen. When he finally reached Chiengmai twehe
months after leaving home, he was penude«s, and of course
Btill suffering intensely. He was reeeued mto the rm.M, n
ho^p.tal and was wholly relieved by an operat.ou. A more
grateful patient one rarely sees. He regularly attended
CHIENG RUNG AND SIPSAWNG PANNA 365
Rorvico at the hospital and evinced great interrat in
Christianity."
When we reached Mftang Sinj;,, we were disappointed
to find that the I'raya was away. But he had loudly
sung the praises of the mission hospital, and that was a
good introduction for us. The chief oflBcer of the Court
was a friend of liis, and lie proved to he a friend to us,
too. Hearing tliat we were come, the Chao Fa sent
fop us, and turned out to be a relative of the great
Chao Fa of Chieng Rung. Though not of a nature so
deeply religious as some, he was interested in religion ;
and our reply to his lirst question as to the object of
our visit, immediately introduced the subject.
At first he was inclined io cavil, asking such ques-
tions as, whether Jesus could rise in the air as Buddha
did, and the like. But this was evidently to "save
his face before his oflicers. For a while he main-
tained thiit the universe is self-existent, having come
into being by the concurr?nce of the matter which com-
poses it. But presently he confessed that it is too
complicated for that, and plainly shows design — that
is, a mind or Mind. At last he asked what argument
made us foreigners so certain of our view that we
should come to ask them to change their religion for
ours. We told him that Jesus Christ Himself was the
ali-sullicient argument. No matter how the world
came into existence, we are here, and we all know that
we are sinners. The Bud lha confessed himself to be
only a man, and himself seeking a refuge like the n st
of us. Jesus Christ claimed to have come down from
heaven, and to be the Son of God. He challenged the
world to convince Him of sin. Those who knew Him in-
timately saw something in Him not only different and
AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
superior, but of a diflerent kind. TT.' showed this not
only bv His spotless life, but by the uiirat .-s that He
wrought. He claims to have power to forgive Bins.
And thousands and millions who have accepted H.m
believe that He has for^Mvcn tlu-.n; an.l show that fact
bv becoming better men. We talked thus an hour
and a half. He evi.ieullv felt the force of the argu-
Sunday was the fifth day market ..r fair- the largest
and f\no;t we had seen in the north. The hill-tnbes, as
usual, were out in full force. I was still suffering with
sore thrc It, but Mr. Irwin and the assistants had a fine
morning's work, and in the afternoon had a fair at-
tendance at the regular service.
One of the most interesting incidents of our stay was
the night service, held in the residence of the Chao Fa
at his express re.iuest on the evening before our de-
parture The audience was mainly his own family
and dependents, and the Trince was more free than
hefore. Duriag the singing he asked that the cornet be
stor.iK.Hl in order that he might hear the words more
plainly. When NSn Snwan led in prayer, he wished to
know \t we always prayed in that way. There was the
usual sad refrain-no hope of pardon, bondage to the
spirits, the drawing to a better way, but so strong a
counter-current! Yet who can tell how many, alter
all, the truth may have reached? ., .„xfc
We loft Mfiang Sing t>u Wednesday, April IZtn.
There is no need to weary the reader with details of
the ten days' travel before we reached Chieng Sto,
or with the varied incidents of our work.
At Chieng Sen we received letter^ that were disap-
pointing to my plans. The mission had unanimously
decided that, partly for considerations of our healthy
CUiEXU RUNG AND SIPSAWNG PANNA 367
and partly for reasons of mission polity, Mrs. McGil-
vary and I should take our furlough at once. We had
been ten and a half years on duty in the field. My
wife was not really sick, but was not well, and the doc-
tor advised her going. I was very anxious to repeat
the same tour the next year, in spite of the few malarial
chills 1 had encountered Ibis time. I'.iit iurnn}i:ements
had been completed, and there was no option but to
submit.
My companion on Ibis tour was far frotn well, and
it was important that he should hasten home at once.
What with daily rains, bad roads, and swollen streams,
Mr. Irwin had a hard trip of it alone the rest of the
way; and it was some little time l»efoie he was well
again. For my return there was no such need of haste.
The work among the Mtlsd had been left, upon the
whole, in hopeful condition. The power of the tribal
bond, which almost annihilated individual responsibil-
ity, had been somewhat weakened. Many head men
had promised to enrol themselves as Christians this
season. It was certain that no tour among them could
be made the coming year. I must visit them now.
The experiences of this visit were entirely like thos«
of the previous ones — everywhere the same w^arm wel-
come, interesting night meetings, earnest consultations,
and ministering to the sick; days spent in wading
brooks, climbing mountain ridges, plunging down
ravines, to get from one village to another, where the
same round would be repeated. They would all be-
come Christians if only another officer or two would
join them. Thus it went on till we had visited nearly
all of the eleven villages, and were back at POn Chai t
and S^n Bun Yiiang's, where we began. These people
were nearer to Nan Suwau's Christian village, had
368 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TllK LAO
known more of our religion, and, n.. doubt were be-
U^vers in tl.o UniU of our t..a.hing. We talked w.th
them till late at uight, aud ..nr parting with them had a
traKic interest. They were apparently on tbe uigi
of accepting the (Josik^I. Wo used <.ur utu.ost en^
deavours to persuade them to join Cha I'u Raw on the
other side of the river, and not wait for the other
who might come in afterwards. Th.s was probabl>
last visit; but if any sutTinent nuudn^r would jo.n the
church, the iuission would not desert them. "
all probability the offer would never be pressed upon
proved to be. About half of the vm^es
wei. under Ihe governor of Chieng S^n. The mha^
itants of these were assured of their safety in t^k ng t e
decisive step, so far as the rulers were .oneern.Hl. But
'"le of the'larger villages were under the go..rnor of
Maang Len. His opposition was a foregony onclu
Bion because of his interest in the opunu l.atht. My
^n^io gain a U.-ge entrance an.oug ^1^- ... one
of the greatest disapp.nutn.ents in u.y whole ^orfe.
That I was not mistaken in the hopefulness of the
work among the Musos has since been ^^---^^^^^^f
the many thousand converts won among the same tnbe
by our Baptist breth,-en in the Keiig Tung region. At
tL same time they are better prepared for such a .^rk
than were we. Their wide experience an^ong the Karens
of Burma, and the large number of f "'^f Ka^/^^^
through whom they work, give them advantages m this
partkular work which our mission does no possess.
the other hand, it is sure.y to be -g-tted th^ ou^
amission sfiuuld be limited in its ac^ss to all br^ches
alike of the Tai population found m the northern
^tLtL, for which, bridentity of race and language and
CHIHNiJ 1M'N<1 AND KirSAWNC PANNA 309
literature, we are far lieUer jtrepared than our Baptist
brethren. For while, to use a legal phrase, the mis-
sionary holds a brief for no one particular tribe; whilo
Lis roniniission and his duty is to preaih the (iospel
to all whom he can n :u'h ; yet it is a well recognized
fact that the Tai family has largely fallen to oar mis-
sion. And it will be seen from what we have said
above, that we relurned from this trip with enlarged
views and bright prospects of opening up work among
our own Tai people in the nortii. It will fake years
of hard work and a useless expenditure of time and
money for any other missionary organization to reach
the point at which we were ready to begin work among
these people. Hut this is a complicated question, the
tangled web of which it is not possible for any one
man to unravel.
XXXII
THIRD FURLOUGH-STATION AT CHIENG RAI
ON my return to Chioimniai 1 found preparations
well advanced for our departure on furlough.
En.barkin}: on June 7th, we reached Han^kok
on June 22d, and ^*an Francis< o on AuRust h |S
Of the events of that memorable year, I shall touch
uDon only two or three. . , . <■
Sr. J. H. Barrow«, the originator and President o
the Parliament ..f Religions, had invited me to attend
:,nd narti.ipa.e in its meetings. After, perhaps a
it le sho..k Lt the boldnes. of the idea-a« if Chr^tian-
ity were to be put on a par with other rol,gH>ns-I
s;mpathi..Ml with the object as legitimate and proper.
I t was merely doing on a large scale what we mission,
aries are called upon to do on a smaller scale every
time that we hold an argument with ^^^^^J
other non Christian people. The fa.rness of the dea^
and even its very boldness, might do good; and I be-
lieve thev did. j * „
On tl,; Sunday before the o,^ning 1 ^'^^ened to a
reallv great sernum by Dr. Harrows on " ^brist he
Light of the World." I attended every session ..f the
Parliament, save at the hour from 1 1 a.m. tn 2, when I
nsually went <.vcr to the Moody meet.n^s to hear John
McNeill, as he was familiarly called, preach his
trenchant sermons.
If any one went to the Parliament-as possibly some
370
STATION AT (:nii:Nr, kai
371
did— hoping to hear Christianity demolished, he cer-
taiuly WEB disappointed. But there was one criticirai
which occurred to me. Whatever may have been
thought of the wisdom of the original conception and
inauguration of the Parliament, the Protestant
churches might have made a much more imposing front,
if the ablest men of tue diftv mit (Icnominations had
not stood aloof, either indififerent or hostile to it. It
was surely the opportunity of a lifetime for many, who
could not hope otherwise ever to address iKjrsonally
the votaries -jf non-rhristian religions, to bring for-
ward their strong reasons to bear on so many of the
most intelligent and presumably the most earnest seek-
ers after the truth.
While attending those meetings in Chicago, I re-
ceived news tiiat our son, the Kev. Evander B. McGil-
vary, had felt himself constrained to resign from the
Lao mission. No good can come from now reviewing
the issues wiiidi led to this step; and it is needless to
say how bitter was the disappointment to his par-
ents, who had looked forward to his carrying on their
work, and to him, who had specially prepared himself
for that work, and for no other. But I must say that
bitter as was the disai ; ointment, I sympathized with
his position, and respected his motives.
At the meeting of the General Assembly in the fol-
lowing May, to which I was a delegate, liie one all-
engrossing business was the trial of the Rev. Henry P.
Smith, D.D., for heresy on the question of the " Iligher
Criticism." Viewing the matter from this distance,
and entirely apart from the merits of this particular
case, I doubt whether critical and scientific questions
are proper subjects for trials before such a body. If
tried at all, such questions should be tried by a com-
372 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
mission of experts. Biblical oriticisin :in«l science will
go on, and the (luostionH involved will lie decided ac-
cording to tUeir own lines of evidence, quite
respective of the decrees of Poikjk, Councils, and Gen-
eral Assemblies. I :nn nnuli mistiiken if Ihe good
sense and temper of the cliuich would now sanction
heresy trials on such questions.
( »ne (lay some fifteen years earlier than the point we
have now reached in our narrative, a letter came to
our mission from a Mr. Robert Arthington of Leeds,
England. The leder, iii<(' all his suhse«iuent ones, was
on small sl>oets of notei.ai)er, written over once, and
then written again crosswise, so as to be almost il-
legible. The writer had s(.m. \vii( iv learned of the
journey of a Fro explorer wii... from the upper Me
Kong and the Uc.^waters of the Me U, had crossed
to the China Sea through the region now known as
Tonking. The traveller had passed through certain
tribes possoss.-d of a written language and supposed
to be of Aryan stock. Hy some means Mr. Arthington
had heard of our mi - jn, and wrote to en.iuire whether
some of us could n.n visit those tribes and .listnhute
among them " the Gospels of John and of Luke, and the
Acts of the Apostles," particularly " telling them that
the Acts followed Luke, and uns htf m same author."
Wo had not the slightest idea who the writer was;
but the devout spirit of the letter was charming, and
such interest in obscure tribes along the northern
border of our field was most surprising. His strong
desire to send the Gosi)el message to " the regions be-
yond " appealed to me. He api)eared to be a man of
means, for he offered to bear the expense of circulating
those three books. At the same time he was evidently
STATION AT OIlIENd KAI
373
gomewhat pm-ntric and impracti«al iu his ideas. Ue
geemed not lo lia.e lliought that ♦ circulate books
among newly discovered tribes would require— »incp
the (('ssiition uf (lie {jift <»f t<mf?neH— noqni8iti«>n of
their lauguat'es. traiiMlatitm, priuting iiresses, etc., etc.
But the ease, at all events, memed worth following up.
I acknowledged tin- ivceipt of hia h'ttfi-, pointing
out tlic ottstiicics wliiih he seemed to overlook, direct-
ing his attention to our own mission as occupying a
new and Interesting field, with many hill-tribes on our
own bonlt-r whirli \\\> hoiwMl to ivacli. I invited his
co6i)eratiou, stating that as soon as we were properly
enforced, we intended to go as far north as we could.
Almost to my surprise, Mr. Arthington replied im-
mediately, expressing his interest in our work, but still
reverting to his scheme for evangelizing tlie " tribes of
Aryan stock" found by his French traveller. That
was. (jf course, impossible for us to undertake, though
I did i)rop()se to Dr. Cushing of the American Baptist
Mission iu Burma to join me in a tour through that
region at Mr. Arthington's expense. This plan had
attractions for us both; but Pr. (bushing's college work
made it impossible. Still, we might be able to make
some compromise with our unknown correspondent,
go, for .,ome years, I kept up an occasional correspond
ence with Mr. Arthington, just sufficient to keep us in
touch with each other. He always replied immediately
to my letters, breathing the same deep interest in mis
sions, and especially in the tribes hitherto unreached
by the (Jospel. Touring within my own appointed field
engrossed the whole of my available time; but since
that field was already in part suppUed, it did not spe-
cially api»eal to him.
After the tour, longer than usual, taken with my
374 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND TUE LAO
daughter in 1890, I »ent him a report of it In re-
Hpons.. 1.0 sent me thirty i.oundH, which aided m the
work of ISUl among the Mflso. The tour taken with
Mr Phraner in 1892 wag nearer to his idea ; and the
one talcen with Mr. Irwin in IS!.:? int.-n..Oy interested
l.i.n - but ehietiv iK-oaUHe it s.-. nied to be a stepping
stone toward i-eaehing his " A. van tribes" beyond. He
thoronghly approved of that tour; expressed his re-
gret that w." .....1.1 not ...eet in o.'der to come to a
Hearer understanding about the geography of the
^.gi„„_siuce all onr maps were defective; and aug-
aegted, " I should like your dau^'hter t.. {,'.. w.th vou
on vour next trip, as I can well eun.-eive he idea that
she" will be a valuable help." Ue was, moreover, » par-
tienlarly interested that the Cambodians als.. should
bav the r.ospels of L.ike and J.din, and the Arts.
Following up Mr. Arthington's suggestion of an in-
terview, 1 met him by appointment in Liverpool on my
return from the United States. We had only a half
hour s interview; hut he th.nmht that sufficient to en-
able us to understand each other's plans. On reach-
ing London I was to make out an order for what sum
I needed f<.r ...v nex. w..rk. This I did, askin- f-.- the
modest Bum of forty pounds, which I received by i-eturu
^"■The trans-M6 K6ng tour, however, was iiuvitably de-
laved If was n..: until the Ann.ial Mcetinj? -i the luis-
si.ni in lSi)»; that Dr. Peoples and 1 were appointed to
make that tour, an account of which will appear later.
To complete, however, now the story of my relat...ns
with Mr Arthiu-ton. I 'nay say that lu advance of the
Ann..al Meeting just red t.., I wrote to him that
the projected tour would surely be tak. n, au.l sa-
gested that sixty pounds would probably suffice to
HTATIHN AT CfllKNO RAI 376
cover U« expeuHc. lli.s ni.I.v i »m' he'""* o"*"
meeting adjourned, with a cheque for seventy ,>onndH,
The timely aid swmed anticipato tlu- dr up
j.rnv.l <.f our Mito.npf. In hit. letter be suBgv^ted.
I'erhapH it uuj?lit Ik; u k<'"«I ITecautlon for y<m t« let
the French know your friendly object, and lo get mi
permimiun to travel east <.f th. ui.per walerK ..f t' - Mft
KT.n ' as far an vmi deem pmp. r for ^..ar pu.p<»*e-
Hut dear Urol her. neek-and I intend to with ym
—the Lord's counsel and blessed comfort and RWd
^°Tlu. I.. MI- was taiveii, as I have already intimated.
and a full printed rei-ott was sent to Mr. Arthin^K'n.
On the whole, he was pleased; but it is n-i . to
Hcrve two masters. I had assur^l Uiiu aoju
ginning that ruy first duty was to my misBion a-.
my own field. Still he was a little disappointed U.at
I had to go so far out of wav to join Dr. Peoples
in Nan; and a little more that we could not get up
nearer to Tongking to give his favourite John, Luke,
and the Acts" to the tribes supposed to be Aryan
descent, found bv the French uaveller. To enable me
to do this, he said, " 1 believe 1 should have great
pleasure in sending you all you will need fmm -ue
He even intimated once that he would he will.ng o
nrovido in his will for the continuance of that work.
While not jealous oi ray connection with the Board,
it seemed to him a tantalissing thing that, while 1 was
oeographically nearer his goal i.an any one else, and
*as, moreover, in sympathy with his devout spirit
and evangelistic aspiraticms to reach the " regions be-
yond,** I was not free to carry ont Ms favourite, though
(wmewhat chimerical, plans. ^ ^ x
The last letter 1 had from him was dated October
376 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
22d, 1898. His passion was then as strong as ever to
get his three fayoiirite books to ** the tribes mentioned
by the French traveller, . . . for they are a people for
whom I have desired much, since the day I first read
of them, that they should have the Gospel." He ex-
pressed great sympathy with my disappointment that
the French would not permit our labouring in their
territory, adding, " Yet the Lord will not be robbed
of His own." His death occurred not very long after
this. Of the disposition of bis large estate I found
the following acconnt in the London Daily Oraphic:
" The late Robert Arthington of Leeds, left about £750,000
to the London Missionary Society, and the Baptist Mission-
ary Society. The total value of his estate was £1,119,843.
It is estimated that the Baptist Missionary Society will
receive £415,000 and the London Missionary Society £335,000.
The whole of the money must be spent in the next twenty
years on new missionary work, and no part of it is to be
spent in the United Kingdom."
We reached Bangkok on September 11th, 1894.
There we were joined by the Rev. and Mrs. Howard
Campbell and Dr. and Mrs. C H. Denman, who had
come via the Pacific. Earlier in this same year there
had come to the station iu Mflang Pr^, Dr. and Mrs.
Thomas, Mr. and Mrs. Shields, and Miss Hatch; with
the Rev. and Mrs. L. W. Gnrtis and Miss Margaret
Wilson for Lakawn.
On our arrival in Ohiengmai we found Mr. Pliraner
very ill with abscess of the liver, and suffering at times
intoise pain. He had Leen warned by physicians and
friends to desist from his work and lake his furlough.
But, as chairman of the Evangelistic (.'ommitteo, he
had been pushing the evangelistic work too eagerly to
STATION AT CHIENG BAI 877
heed these warnings. He refnsed to leave his post
till those who were absent should return. Soon after
we arrived he started for the United States, but, alas!
it was too late. He died in Singapore on January
15th, 1895, leaving a wife and two little boys to pttrane
their sad jouruoy alone. Mrs. Phraner — formerly Miss
Lizzie Westervelt — had served a useful term in the
(J iris' School before her marriage. The Phraner
Memorial School for small children, erected by the
family and friends beside the First Church in Chieng-
mai, is an appropriate tribute to their labours for the
Lao race, to which they devoted their lives.
The year of our absence had been almost a banner
year as regards successful evangelistic work. Mr.
Dodd's Training School had furnished a larger num-
ber of fairly well prepared evangelists than we ever
had before. Between forty and fifty of these had beaa
actually at work in the field for longer or shorter
periods during the year, and their work had been very
successful. The Annual Meeting convened in Ohieng-
mai soon after our return. In it there was evident,
on the part both of missionaries and of native as-
sistants, a degree of enthusiasm and exuberant ex-
pectancy which, under the most favourable circum-
stances, could hardly have escaped the inevitable re-
action. Krii Nan Ta, a man of magnetic power among
his people, was then in his prime. The great value of
his services raised probably to an excessive degree our
estimate of the necessity of more ordained native la-
bourers. If one had done so much, what might a dozen
or a score accomplish? And there were the men, with
two, three, or even -nore years of training in the study
of the Bible. Most of them were elders or deacons in
the differ^t churches. They had proved faithful in
378 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
little. Why might they not be trusted with more
talents? Nine of these men were pree^ted (or ex-
amination before the Presbytery.
When we began, it was thought — against the advice
of Mr. Dodd, who was on furlough — that one or two
might be ordained to meet the immediate needs of
the work. Some of them had spent a number of years
in the Buddhist priesthood, and had some knowledge
of Pali. Others were without such education, but
nearly all had learned to read Siamese. In Biblical
knowledge they had made fair progress. When the
examination was closed, there was a long and anxious
deliberation, with special prayer for divine direction.
It was quite safe to ordain one or two. But the next
candidate was so near the sta- '1,' 'd of these that it
might seem invidious to exclude him — and so with the
next, and the next. When the vote was taken, six were
chosen for ordination and three for licensure. The
millennium seemed drawing near!
With the new title and responsibility, higher wages
were naturally to be expected. And it was precisely
upon this rock that our hopes and plans suffered ship-
wreck. The Board, as never before, began to insist on
the native churches assuming the support of their own
evangelists. Tlie methods of mission work set forth
and practised in China by the Rev. Dr. Nevius were
urged upon us, and became very popular, especially
with the younger members of the mission, though in
China they had not passed beyond the stage of ex-
periment. They are best described in Dr. Nevius' own
words:
"These two ssrstems may be distinguished in general by
the foruitr's depending largely on paid native agency, while
the latter deprtcatea aud seeks to minimize such agency.
STATION AT CHIENG BAI 379
Pcrliaps an equally correct and more generally acceptable
Btatement of the difference would be, that, while both alika
seek ultimately the establishment of independent, self-
reliant, and aggressive native churches, the * Old System '
strives by the use of foreign funds to foster and stimulate
the growth of native churches in the first stage of their
development, and then gradually to discontinue the use of
such funds; while those who adopt the 'New System' think
that the denired object can be best obtained by applying
principles of independence and self-reliance from the be-
ginning. The difference between these two theories may
be more clearly seen in their outward and practical working.
The old uses freely, and as far as practicable, the more
advanced and intelligent of the native church members, in
the capacity of paid Colporteurs, Bible Agents, Evangelists,
or Heads of Stations; while the new proceeds on the assump-
tion that the persons employed in these various capacities
would be more useful in the end by being left iu tiieir
original homes and employments." *
The result was that the mission took a good thing
and ran it into the ground. Economy became almost
a craze. The churches were assessed— not heavily, it
is true — to support the ministers; and the ministera
were exhorted to take whatever stipend was agreed
upon, and count any deficiency in it as a voluntary
contribution on their part; or as a debt they owed
their countrymen for the Qaipers sake. Neither
parishioners nor workers understood the scheme. But
it was tried for one year; and at the next Annual
Meeting (in 1895) the catastrophe came. The churches
had been asked to walk before they could stand ; and
the ministers were to work, as well as walk, by faith
and not by sight. As pastors, their expenses were
necessarily increased. They had to draw better, and
to be an example in clothing, and edncating thdr f am-
> MMednif mmUn Wtrk, p. 4.
380 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
ilies, imd iu Litspilality. It seemed to them that they
were required to make bricks without straw. A little
yioldinfi to demands that were not unreasonable would
have satislied the ministers, and the churches would
have been encouraged by the continuance of some
support from the Board for evangelistic work, even
though the amount was much reduced. The zeal was
well meant; but we broke off too suddenly.
For the unfortunate results, the mission, the native
ministers, the churches, and. indirectly, the Board
should share the responsibility. The advantages
gained by our Training School were nullified, and all
progress toward a permanent Theological School was
at an end. After those two Annual Meetings there
was no call for theological training, and no future
for a native ministry. So we have to go on appealing
to the Hoard and to the Aniericau churches for
foreijin woikers, aitlioufjii tiie salary of one of these
would support half a dozen or more native min-
isters.
It is easy to say tliat native ministers and church
members should be willing, out of pure gratitude, to
labour for the evangelization of their own people, or
that such and such other races have done so. As a
matter of fact, the Lao chuicli is larjiely indebted for
its progress to the power exerted by the church itself.
And as to the example of other races, we must re-
member that there are racial differences. Even our
nearest Christianized neifjhbours. the Karens, stand iu
a class quite by themselves iu this respect. We cau
no more apply one rule to all oriental races than we
can enforce western customs in the Orient. Hut we
certainly cannot expect happy results from the ap-
plication of rules that would have discouraged our
STATION AT CHIENG RAI 381
own ancestors when the first Christian missionaries
found them.
Among the things of more hopeful augury accom-
plished in the year 181)4, two deserve special mention —
the establishment of Christian Endeavour Societies
in all the Lao churches, primarily through the efforts
of Dr. Deninan, and the publication of the Hook of
Tsalms and of a hymnal of over two hundred hymns
and tunes. The Psalms were translated by Dr. Wil-
son, and the hymns were almost wholly from his i>en.
At the Annual Meeting, to which reference has al-
ready b^en made, a committee was appointed to con-
sider anew and re[>ort on the question whether it was
or was not advisable now to occupy the northern
l)ortion of the field with a permanent station, and, if it
were deemed advisable, to determine the location. I
had been anxious to have it occupied two years before
this time, but had yielded then to the claims of Pr6
and of Nan — of Prfi because the relief work among
the sufferers from famine had furnished a most auspi-
cious o]tening there; and of Nan because it was a larger
city and province than any in the nearer north. Not-
withstanding the greater progress of the work in the
north, with organized and growing churches in Wieng
Pa Pao, <Miieng Rai, and Chieng Sen, there seemed to
be a lingering doubt as to the wisdom of establishing
permanent stations in cities so small as these. Most
of my colleagues had never visited that northern region.
No one save myself had surveyed the whole field. Yet
no part of the work of a mission is more important,
or requires better judgment, than the location of its
permanent stations. Although fully persuaded in my
own mind, I did not wish the mission to embark on a
new project involving outlay of money and of men,
382 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
without the mature judgment of the whole mission.
Hence it was at my own suggestion that the committee
was appointed.
On January 20th, 1896, Dr. Denman and I of this
committee started northward. Mr. Dodd joined us
later. It is a great thing to have a physician along
on sQch a tour. He relieves a great deal of suf-
fering among a needy people, and so lifts a great load
of care from his companion. Hut beyond this, I my-
self had quite an attack of fever on this particular trip,
and was much indebted to his care for my recovery.
Then we had the stereopticon along, tind lectured
nearly every nig^t to large audiences. The doctor
manipulated the lantern, and left the explanation and
application to me. Those pictures have made the
Gospel story to live in the imaginatious vf many thou-
sands of people. The occasional introduction of a
familiar scene from native life serves to give confidence
that the others also are real, while a few comic ones
interest the children, old and young. A picture of the
King of Siam — their King — with three of his children,
one of them with his arms about his father's neck,
always attracted great attention, and was ott&l adEed
for again at the close of the exhibition.
I had some trouble this time with my sadaw ele-
phant. At one stage his back became so sore that I
should have left him behind, were it not that he had had
a serious encounter with a tusker, and 1 dared not risk
bim in that vicinity. He escaped from the encounter
with some bruises, and it was fortunate that lie in
flicted no serious wound on his antagonist. And he
was quite well again, before we got home. This was,
however, the last tonr he made with me. Elephants
had become property so unsafe that, before the next
BTATION AT GHIENO BAI 883
mason, I disposed of both of mine. In one year, out
of three hundred and fifty elephants employed by a
timber firm, thirty-two died and twenty-two were
stolen. But it was like parting with a friend to see
the sadaw go.
The committee visited the three northern churches,
and, after full conference both with the local rulers
and with the Christians, reached the unanimous deci-
sion tliat there should be a station established in the
north, and that it should be at Chieng Rui. In this
we were lately influenced by the central situation of
that plafp with reference to a considerable group of
cities and towns within the same watershed, and all,
liive Chieng Rai itself, rapidly tilling up with an agri-
cultural population crowded out from the dear and
densely settled lands further south. And in addition
to this was the conviction that the new station would
prove a stepping-stone to the large northern section of
the Tai race, established in territory which is now E<ng-
lish, French, and Chinese. We still think that some
amicable arrangement should be made with the Amer-
ican Baptist Missionary Union, by which the Tai race
to the north of Slam and east of the Salwin should be
left to our mission. The Union has a great work
among the hill-tribes — a work for which they are spe-
cially adapted and specially well equipped; while we
are equally well equipped for work among the Tai.
Dr. Denman viewed the field with special interest,
for he had been designated to help in opening the sta-
tion, and we had the virtual sanction of the Board
thereto. It v/as the prosjtect of having a physician
that specially enlisted the interest of the rulers of
Chieng Mi; though both they and their people were
384 AMO\(; Tin: SIAMI^SR ANT> TRK LAO
frkudlv to our work on other grounds. It made us
sad to think that oar old friend the governor had not
lived to see the niisHi«»n started. But the beautiful
lot fjivon by him on llie .MA Kok will always be a
memorial to him. In due time Kev. and Mrs. Dodd
and Dp. and Mrs. Denman moved up and opened the
stafitiu. The years have abiiudautly justified the wis-
dom of this step. In 1!>10 the aeeessiims to the
churches in Chieug Hui equalled those of the mt»ther
church in Chiengmai.
From Chionn; S«'n we sent out two parties of evangel-
ists, five in each, well loaded with Scriptures and
tracts, one northwestward to Keng Tung, and the
other across the M6 Kong to Mfiang Sing. This was
the very first mission work ever d<me in the Keng Tung
State. These parties carried also a supply of medi-
cines, and were limited in time to two and a half
months. They were everywhere Well received, and on
their return gave interesting reports of their work.
Their books were eagerly read, and the supply of them
was far too small. There were a number of interest-
ing oases of believers. Some villages were loath lo
have then' leave. The experiment, in fact, was very
successful.
As soon as our committee work was done, Mr. Dodd
was obliged to return. After visiting the Mfiso villages,
Dr. Denman and I moved on to Chieng Kawng. This
town is situated on the right bank of the great river
within the fifte<'n kilometer zjme which was reserved
as neutral territory upon the cession of the left bank
to France. A French military station was on the op-
posite side of the river, and a small gunboat was lying
there — the first that ever came up through the rapids.
Among the crew wei-e two or three who could read
STATION AT CHIENG BAI 385
Eliglish, and who were very anxious to pet Fnglish
Bibles. This was an unexi>ected request whi.ir we
could not then njeet. But I applied for Hume to (he
American Bihlo So, i,.(.v. and received them jast before
I started on my trip of the next voar; and, linallv
was able to forward them to the men from Luang I'm-
bang. The caj.tain of the gunboat was very kind to
us winle we sta.viKl at ChienK Kawng, and was much In-
terested in having bis men get tlie Bibles.
Letters were presently received by iJr. Deuman sum-
moning him hack to ('hi(.n-ii.ai on account of the ill-
ness of his wife. This left ,ne again without an as-
•ociate, and with the added care of the medical woi k
which cannot be avoided on such a tour, and wliich of
course, rests more heavily ..n a layman than it does' on
a trained physician. Before rotnrning lu.nie I made
a call— and I believe it was the last one— at the Mus6
villages beyond the m KOng. Again my hopes were
raised of gaining the whole tribe. With such a pros-
pect I would gladly have remained with them several
months. But again I had to leave them v ith only the
"next 3ear" promise— which never was fulfilled I
reached home on May 5th, after an absence of three and
a half monthfl.
XXXI n
THE RKGIONS BEYOND
WO iini)<i, t;i!'( i i s were underiuken hy the L&o
Miuion in -one at the opeeti^ of the ye»<*.
^ MMltward ;m(1 i.< • 'liw nrd i vond the M^^ Ko
River into French and < hlni sc ten , or> ; and the oth.-r
after the close of the rainy aeason, northward into
British territory. The latter tour led to far-reachiag
^o^-ults, but " does not • ouw h'm i\ ■ nf \ m
personal narrative. Tlie f»»ruu r was jvndt'n n {»o«><il)le
by tlie timely gift of tter&iij poundhs from Mr. A rtb tup-
ton, already nn-ntioned; ari'i ir ircsenlcd i^c nearest
appntach we cnuld then nuikt tov ml th* Inlt nu nt of
his great desire to reach with ...e Scrip! uret^ tiiose
" tribes of Aryan origin " in the ' regionti beyond."
Dr. Peoples, then of Nan, was mv > nipsnkia duriii:^'
part of this tour; and we weui well itnpplied with
Scriptares and tracts, no less than fourteen carriers
being loaded with thene alone. I h ft home on Janu-
. 12th, going eastward by way oi awn and Pre
to Nan, wht re Dr. Peoples was to jom me. At each
of these st- aons I spent a bosy and a deiightful Son
day; and m Lakawn as 1 a> Nau F ' d the pleas-
ant compii of Miss Fleeson .aid Miss I < liowman. re-
turning h iheir pu«l from the Anuiial Mt--iiug.
One ni^bt on thitt portion of the trip we were
awakened by the cries of our men and ' j€ i^norting of
the ponies, to &nd that we had a ttom --- nigst
8W
387
prowli niiii ip y !. i w». Ii. anl lo (•(;iM(m of
the lot I >loiu > ,n h ... I'd u« ht' s^jtrung awa •.
The tracks we founrt n Wif oHirning showed him m
be a hiFKc IWw^ u^-i (in his siinw? Hfretrh of road,
a» rtt-enii a>^ li h, ii. r Nan w( ^ in term {ted
.illfd
w<i K-n, liP flaall
wii iV n -'w h
pound.
Ten d-i>
fi'oiifr !lir
m^ht 111 >.
g(.-<Kl i 'ii
iri' .• M.
its stei
internet t!i -t * -
rhe Prsvii — or n,
lip in lief on
(.'ai«- in the
bade ii-^ gtf
uad Tl' ttie
he xt
■IB W) cKpatr'
= red var^ ^f
eral meii and
V Dr. Peoples
miMdon coin-
were -enf
'eat prt in-
at
'HI!
n
t i iifi-
for =ne as
JeKiis rin -
iUg n<»rthward
•pia^ idght by
c . ays had
{I. 4ay we
th« n tamed eastwii \, strik-
ud nuikiiig niii- way up
i.au llfii Kfia wi' found sucl
-orrv that we uiUBt move ou.
ah he name is called throeghoat
iittemoon in tran.sci'ifii .j^ in tbt
ater the tract entitled " The Way
lad he«fd something of cor re-
ii i i-nier princess pupil of Miss
I HU.. -rhool at Hanj;koIi. As bo
. aid, p»fintiug upwards, " I hope
yoB'ier," and seemed pleased that we
icij ion.
.iUday we camped in the monastery
Ban Hfia Ling. The peo})l" began to as
' rcalifast, and long beft fu it was time
<!= rvi. e the {^rounds were full. The
...ulis and the officers, sat directly be-
i^ned the method of salvation through
( i • audience listened most attentively.
At uiti ciuae ilie uubui and the officers remained for
388 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
farther conversation. The abbot expressed surprise at
our errand. lie hart never known of anybody's trav-
elling about simply to teach the people. Some ex-
pressed fear of enconntering the anger of the spirits
if they should no longer worship them. To this the
doctor gave the scientific answer that fevers and most
other diseases were caused and propagated by specitic
germs, over which the spirits have no control what-
ever. This was to them a now idea, but they seemed
to comprehend it. Next morning, when we left
them, the people followed us with expressions of re-
gret.
When we reached Chieng Men, a town on the west-
ern bank of the river and opposite Luang Prabang, we
fonnd a European with a group of boys, who turned
out to be the French schoolmaster. He invited us
to dine with him tnat evening, and the next day aided
us in crossing the river. Our flrst duty in LQang
Prabang was to report to the French authorities, M.
Vackle, the Coniniaadant Sup^rienr, and M. (5 rant, the
Commissaire. They had been notified from Bangkok
of our coming, and received us with genuine French
hospitality. We never met two more perfect gentle-
men. They even offered us a house ; but, as the abbot
of the principal monastery was a personal friend of
mine, they yielded to our preference to stop with
him, but only on the ground that there would be more
comfort and room for our men.
That evening we were invited to dine with M. Vackle.
M. Grant and his staff were present; and the dinner
was a royal one, to which we were prepared to do full
justice. We had the embarrassment of not being able
to converse save through a native interpreter not well
versed either in French or is English. Bat oar host
THE REGIONS BEYOND 389
was most considerate, as were also his French guests.
And every evening dm ing our stay we dined with one
or another i)f the (iHieials.
Next day we called ou the Lao " King," as he is still
enpbemistically called, though possessing only snch
powers as tlie French give him. When we made our
business call on the French oflii ials io ask jicruiission
to proceed on our missionary tour through the French
territory, they were very obliging. We freely discnssed
together alternative routes, aud they otfered us pass-
ports tor any of theiu. When at last with some hes-
itancy, the question of permanent work and a mission
station was broached, M. Vackle replied that for that
he had no authority. Application would have to be
made to the ernor General at Hanoi, and prefer-
ably throng^ Washington and Paris. The prospect
still seemed hopeful.
On the evening before our departure, M. A'ackle in-
vited ns to dine informally and spend the evi uing with
him at his beautiful cottage and gardra two miles
out in the country. On nieoting us, our host said,
" The other night I was the Commandant Hup6rieur,
To-night I am simply M. Vackle. I want to have a
pleasant informal evenin«: with you." And snrely we
did. We talked of the old friendship between France
and the United States, of Washington and La Fayette,
tbe Chicago Exposition, the Parliament of Religions,
and of JI. Vackle's own work in the new province.
He was interested in the Parliament of Keligions, and
asked if Roman Catholics were equally welcome with
Protestants. He had an exaggerated idea of the nnm-
ber of our religious sects. We told him that the great
body of Protestants were included in five or six groups
Bomewhat like tlie orders of the Catholic charch, bat
890 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
there wore niuncrous siiuiIUt siilidi visions, lie had
heard of one tlint livotl wholly on milk. Of this we
had to confess ignorance, unless it were that large
group that we call infants.
It was after eleven wlieu wo rose to take our leave;
and even then he detained us to see by torchlight his
beautiful garden, artificially watered, and his bowling
alley— insisting that we try a turn on it. This was
what 1 had never dtme before, but at the litsl bowl I
brought down several pins. This phased hiuj, and he
said that he had never seen a better first play.
On taking our final leave, we spoke a last word for
permanent mission work, reminding him thut while
Catholicism and Protestantism had alike produced
great nations, Buddhism never had; and that it was
therefore political wisdom to encourage and foster
the Christian religion in the provinces. He assented,
but said he feai«d that the "King" might ima^ne
that his subjects would be less loyal if they became
Christians. We assured him that the reverse would be
true, since it was a fundaiuental point in our teaching
as well as in the Scriptures, that Christians were to
be obedient to their rulers.
Among the routes offered we chose the northern one
as most nearly meeting Mr. Arthington's desires. Our
passport stated that we were Bat I^iiangs, i.e., Cath-
<ilic priests. We left LOang P -'bfint; on Monday,
March 8th, crossed the Nam tJ near its mouth, and
spent three weeks on our way to Mfiang Sai. At one
point there was a theft of a considerable amount of
our money, which deiayed us a day or two, but an-
noyed us more. The thieves turned out to be some
of our own men, who afterwards confessed, and eventu-
ally we recovered tbe moiwy. From M(Uaig Sai there
THE REdlONS ISEVOND ;Wl
is a good route to Nan, aud as uo man had been left
in that station along with the ladies, Dr. Peoples felt
that he must return to it, while I should go on north-
ward to the Si{).>^a\vnf? Pannfi and finally return to
(Jhiengmai along the route which 1 took with Mr.
Irwin in 1893. His departure was a great loss to me
personally, and to the effectiveness of the tear. He
left us on March 31st.
The next week was one of intense interest to me.
One of its days was the thirtieth anniversary of my
arrival in (Miicngmai, and frauf,'ht with memories of
the hopes, achievements, and disappointments of all
those years. And were we now, perhaps, on the eve
of a new opening with wider possibilities than ever?
So it seemed. For, one day as I was in the monastery
at Mtiang Sai, there entered an officer, S&i Suriya by
name, who, making the obeisance usually made to
priests, explained that, having been absent from home,
he hau not heard the instruction we had given at our
evening worship. His wife, however, had reported that
a teacher from a greri;. and distant country was come
with Scriptures and an offer of salvation from the
great God of all. It was the great desire of his heart
to be saved from his sins. His interest was evidently
intense, and that roused our interest in him. Prom
three o'clock till nightfall our elders and I explained
to him the great truths of revelation, while he listened
almost with rapture.
In the midst of this earnest conference the " ilchan,"
or chief officer of the monastery, came in; and Sen
Suriya j. ed us in explaining to this friend the
Strang : ii« h < be had heard. The fichin was soon as
deeply rested as he. He also desired to know
further of this matter. Before we parted that evening,
30J AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
s^n Suiiya luid accepted the teaching joyfully; and
his tricriti, with more reservation.
Soon others had joined these two — notably a fam-
ily of refugees from persecution for witchcraft. They
were readv to a-i-ept anything which would deliver
them from l)ondaf,'t' to the spirits, (^n Sunday at the
public service the instruction was directed to the needs
of these enquirers, all of whom were present. The cost
was to be counted; the cross was to be taken up; but
the reward was great. Sen Suriya's wife and family
all opposed him. He had si>ent an anxious night, and
was under great strain; but was still firm. He was
ready at any cost.
His friend the achan had received his appointment
in the monastery from the Pla, or head-officer. For
honesty's salie he felt he must notify the Pia and re-
sign his position. It was. therefore, arranjred that our
elders and I should go with the two friends on that
errand that very afternoon. We went, and were kindly
received. Sen Suriya. as spokesman, witnos.sed a good
confession. They had been men, he said, who all their
li'-es had sought merit and followed the teachings of
tue Huddlia, but with great an.xiety. on account of their
failures. Now they had learned of tlie great refuge of
the <iod who could pardon and save both in this and in
the coming world. Their motive was strictly religions.
They would be as loyal as ever, and would j»erform
faithfully their government duties. The achau said
that his friend had fully expressed his views, but he
wished further to resign his position in the monastery.
Tin- I'Ta listened witli evident interest, but with some
surpris*'. When lie spoke, he said: "All that I know
of religion I have learned from these two men. They
know manifold more than I do. If they see it right,
THE REGIONS BEYOND 393
how can I oppose? I will still take tliem as my re-
ligions (t iKheis, and will learn Christianity of them."
I added a word, emphasizing their assurance that
being good Christians would only strengthen their loy-
alty. Thanking the Pla for his kindness, I retired.
How much of his liberality was due to my presence—
if it were so due at all— 1 do not know. But next
morning Sen Buriya came to say that he could not
withstand the opposition of his wife and family. While
his faith was firm as ever, he could do no more this
year. By another year he hoped their opposition might
be relaxed. Meantime the family of refugees had
weakened. I supplied all these with medicine, and
urged them to remain steadfast in the faith, reminding
them that baptism was not essential to salvation.
I had made farther stay in Mfiang Sai dependent
upon the outcome in the case of these two men. So
now it seemed best to continue my journey northward.
I went out to a retired wooded hillock, and there spent
a quiet season in prayer, commoiding those in whom
I had become so intensely intep-sted to the care of
the Divine Teacher, and seeking direction for my
further coarse.
So far we had not met many of the hill-tribes, which
had been one of the main objectives of the t<nir. As I
descended from the hill, 1 found some thirty Kamus
jast arrived on some govemmoit work, and encamped
by the road. I turned aside to speak with them, when,
to my surprise, one, taller and more intelligent than
the rest, answered me in good Luo. To my greater
surprise, when I handed him a tract, he began to read
it. It seems that, when a lad, he had been initialed into
the monastic order by the I'lincess of Luang Prabang,
and was one of the very few of his tribe who was a
394 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
fairly good Lfio si luilar. lie was delighted to get the
book; hut I \v:i> like a iiiiuer who has found a new
gold Mine. Uad they been ready to return to their
homes, I should at once have gone wiA them. A new
vision seenitd to open before mv of work aun.iijr that
interesting tribe. 1 had seen ihe great value ol ihe
help afforded by (Jha I'Q Ka». the first Mwd> convert,
in work among his tribe. Bvt he was not . holar,
aiid was too old to learn, llert- w:is a Kaiiiu liolar.
M^t he not have Iteen raised up tor this very purpose?
That evening 1 s\)mt with my elders in their camp.
I left with luy new friend a number of books, wliii li
he promised to read lo his iKMijiie. I took down the
names of their villages, and promised if possible to
visit them next year — which they all begged me to do.
That a;>parently lasual meeting sci'mcd to me u bnid
call, Come over and help us! And it led ttt a most in-
teresting work, which was stopped only at the com-
mand of the French.
Leaving Miiaug Sai, we j(»urueyed northward along
the telegraph road, enlivened by noble views of long
slopes, deep gorges, and high peaks. We passed some
villages of the Yao tril)e with whom we could converse
only by signs. On the third day out, at I{an Na Tawng,
we left the telegraph road, turning off at right
angles to MOang LS. At one village the head man
assembled his people to mit't us, when he learned that
here was a man from seven days beyond the great
French country! At one place we passed a village of
Lentlns, so named from the tlistrict in (.'ochin China
fntm whi( h they came. They showed tliei" Chinese in-
genuity by having their rice pounding done by water-
power.
Mftang Ai was the last town in French territory; be-
THE REGIONS BEYOND 395
yond it one enters the province of Yunnan, China.
Here we bad scarcely pitched our tent before the gov-
ernor had road our little tract ou '* The Way to Hap-
piness," aud asked us to stay awhile to teach his
people. This we did, remaining from Friday till Tues-
day, lie invited us to \v(trslii[) in his house, which was
tilled to overilowinf^. On Saturday, in coinpany with
the governor, 1 attended a wedding least. 1 got along
finely with the various dishes until a bowl of blood
fresh from a slaughtei-ed hog was i)assed around, and
each guest took a spoonful ! My note upon leaving the
town was, " It is wonderful how many, especially of
the otlicers and the more thoughtful class, are struck
witli the self-evidencing truths of the (k»spel on its tirst
presentation. xVnd their first thought is the sincere
conviction that the Gkmpel meets their wants. Nor is
this testimony invalidated because, when they come to
count the cost, they are not willing to pay it."
I was much pleased to hear uuiforui testimony to
the uprightness of Fr«)ch oflicials. My own rrapect
for French rule had fjre:itly inereased since we en-
tered their territory. Is it that the Tai race beyond
the Edng is more religious, or is it on account of
the French rule, that people there seem more deeply
interested in the (losj)el iiicssa^e? Hut sucli has been
the fact. I have never been cheered by brighter visions
of hopeful and speedy results of our labours. It seems
almost inconceivable that a European nation should
forbid missionary work among its i)eople.
From this point on we were warned not to allow our
party to be separated on the march. Shortly before
this a merchant travellinjr with his son had been at
tacked aud killed. I heard of two mountain tribes in
this neighbourhood new to me. and of a third further
396 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
to the northwest, which sacriflcos at every rice-harvest
a iiuiuun victim captiiml from sniiie other tribe.
Scarcely any ono liad ever licanl nf tlic nanio of Jesus.
Not far Irom the tt)\vu we passed ou a ridge u well-
marlced boundary stone with the letters B. P. (R6-
pul)li(nie 1'rain.aise) on one side, and C. R. (Cbieng
liuug) ou the other, iu larpe Koinan capitals. Notic-
ing by tbe roadside a large stack of bricks, we learned
that we were near the salt wells, and that the salt was
compressed into bricks for easier transportation on
mules. Tbe salt industry makes Itan Itaw Ke uu im-
portant place. No one with white clothes, white hair,
or white lieard is allowed to enter the enclosure about
tbe salt wells; so 1 did not see them. 1 could get no
reason for tbe probibition, save tbat tbe spirits would
be displeased.
The lime of my visit was unfortunate, being the be-
ginning of tbeir New Year festival, which is always a
season of carousal. That nigbt we bad a scene tbat
defied description. After supper a man came to tell
me to get ready; Ibey we-re going to "saw" me. I
did nut know what " saw " iug might be; but 1 soon
learned, to my disgust. Presently a noisy crowd en-
tered the sala where I was, with drums, fifes, ani other
musical instruments, and surrounded me with deafen-
ing noise and songs. A great personaige had come to
their place, and they were come to do him honour.
He had great riches, and they e.v^ k ted a treat of fifty
raises. Paying no attention to my attempted dis-
claimt', they went on: "Give us out your money.
Give us fifty rui>ees! Give us twenty-five! " Pushing
my way out of the noisy circle, I was followed with
more imperative demands. At last tbe governor's son
came up as a friend and advised me to give them five or
THE REQIONR BEYOND 307
six niiiecs, or fhoy would never tlepart. Then om of
my elders ( aiiie to me, anzioas regarding the outcome,
and sjiid lluit it was only a New Year cnstnio, not a
religious oue— inliiiiatint,' tl'Ut 1 need have no con-
iwientlong scmpleti in tlie matter. Finally the gov
ei nor's sou said he could get them off with three rupees.
I had t.uly one in my poeket, and did not dai-c open
my box before that uiob. At last I handed the young
man that one, and, with an emphasis which they under-
stood, fold him that I would give no more, ap|)caling
to his father for protection, and holding him re
sponsible for the consequenccH. They went off sullenly
ent.ugh. Having gone so far, I doubt whether they
wonld have desisted without something " to save their
face." From me they went to the governor's, and so
on, in order, throughout the place, with their hideous
noise, which I could hear far on into the night.
At anothi-r village further on, the peoi)Ie seemed in
doubt how to receive me, till a ,\oung man came for-
ward and asked if I were not the man who a few
years ?)eforc travelled through that country with an
elephant, and let the Prince of Muang IV.ug have a
gun. Then, turning to the head man, he said, " You
need not be afraid. He is a teacher of the Jesus-
religion." My standing in that village was issnred.
One of the listeners at our worship in the monastery
that night was much impressed, not with the idea of
pardon, as is commonly the case, but with that of the
Holy Spirit to purify and cleanse. That was what
he needed; and he earnestly enquired how to obtain
bis aid. This led to the subject of prayer to a tiving,
personal (lod, who has promised this aid. Wc left him
with the hope that his great need would be supplied.
Mftang La was the farthest point reached on this
398 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
lour. From it we rttrnck westward into our old ronte
«if Ib'.i'.i iit MCiaiij; IViiij;. 'I he ( luio I'Ti u lio got my
gnu liiid k'l'ii killt'il liv liis luHtplc 1 \Tas iiuicli sfruok
witli tbe Judiciul asjuTt of tl»e act as told uie. One
of the officers uald, " He was a bad man, who op-
pressed tlie ptMtple, liued and executed them utijuHtly,
and, of course, we killed him. That is the way the L&o
do." A nephew and adopted son of the murdered
Prince succeeded him, but the authority was largely in
the haiiils ^•f the I'raya I.Tiaiig, though the young
Trime's mother also had great inlluence. She invited
me to a good dinner, and we hud a most interesting
conversntiun. Among other things she asked, "How
is it that you say IJuddliism cannot save?" and she
seemed much impressed with the answer: Jlecanse
Gautama Buddha is gone, and it is more than twenty-
five hundred years before the next ItudUha is expected "
We were now travelling southward, and soon canie
once more ui»on the tricolour tloating over the French
post at Mfiang Sing. I felt like salnting it. I was
greatly surprised to f^nd an Englishman, Mr. Eva, in
charge, lie fairly shouted to hear his mother tongne
once mot«. He bad scarcely heard a word of it for
three years. Seeing that I was spent with my long,
hot ride, and that niy carriers would not get in till
nightfall, he kindly oll'ered to hunt me up some
luncheon. This I declined, if only I might bare a
Clip of tea and a piece of dry bread. Holding up both
hands, he exclaimed, "You've got me there! I've al-
most forgotten how wheat bread tastes." He insisted
on my taking up my quarters in his bungalow, til! I
said, " If you were on French business, you would
wish to stop where you could best accomplish it, would
you not? I am here on missionary work, and my
THE BEGION8 BEYOND 399
basii^m w wUh the ix'oplo. The inoniiHtery grounds
will 8uit ine ImiUt.' "Looking at It in that light,"
«ai(i he. " you'ro rmht. I'll s;iy no iiiort'." I know
that in the huine of a rieuch official 1 nhould have no
▼Isiton at all.
He was tlie son of an [:nf?lisli Wesh'van minister;
but, being a wild lad, he had wandcitd away and
drifted Into the French army, wheie he rose to an of-
li.ial position. But the influences of his early days
had not been lost. Wo had many heart to heart lalks
together, lie wanted an English Bible. Uaviuf; only
my "Oxford" along, I conid not spare him that, hut
brought him one on my next lour. On Kunday he at-
tended the service led l>y the elders, phased at the
evidence they gave of the reality of uur missionary
work. He bad six tbonsand Kamns in his district.
The opium habit is very con >n. We found but
few monasteries in the Sipsawug Pauna whose abbots
and monks did not use opium. One man, wh^n asked
whether be nsed it, made a significant answer: " When
I have money, I dr). When I have none, 1 ilon't."
The Ohao Fu of MCkang Sing was busy in epai ing for
the marriage of bis dangfater with a son of the great
Chao Fu of Cbioig Rung. So I did not see much of
him. I had a long talk, howem, wi-'i the prospective
groom. He doubted the poasibiltty of pardon for sin.
I had several interviews with Dr. HcKean's patirat
for calculus, before mentionc lie was not so near
Christianity as I hoped to find him^ but was profuse
in praise of the doctor and the hospital. He had two
wives before the operation, and now was ntilising bis
new lease of life by taking another younger one. I
saw here some peaches not quite ripe — which was very
tantalizing. Bnt I did get some ripe plums.
400 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
When I left MAan;; SIdk on Api-il 2Sth, Mr.
IWa escorted me !<ix inilt's on my way. aiiti we
l>a»l«' nil (itlwr nomMiye fmir (»r ti\t' tinu's hclor*' we
KMikl tiiially puit. At Wicng ITikii 1 Imd uut>ther
warm welcome from the French Commimaire. I had
to (If( liin" Ilis invita!i(»n. also, to ho<mI qiiartct-M
with him; hut diued with him ut night, uud
next momtnt; he wnt me a nice Hhoulder of beef. A
htri;(> iiiiiiilti'i- (if Kamutf were here eiii<;iiK<^d on some
piililic Works. I'lilikc most of llitir trilic, llicsc are
liuddhi:4ts, und there were a nuuil)er who rouid i-eud,
and who were delighted to get books. It wuk remark*
Hble that tlieir women sftuke l.ao fairly well. Their
eliief otlicer liad eighteen hundred men under him.
After talking with them till near midnight, I turned
them over to the elders, and wan tMHtn aiileep. Next
morniufr my cook < iiiin' to my tent to eniinirc whether
1 were not ill. It wj^ hulf past nix, and breukfast was
ready!
We passed many Kamii villa;j;es in iliiM portioa of
our route. .Mosi of them would welcome a missionary,
and seemed ripe for I lie < ioM[tel. Formerly, under the
government of NOn, they bad an easy time, with no
taxes and almost voluntary service. Now they natu-
rally eumplained of the stricter ri'gime of the French.
I consoled them with the fact that the world over
people have to pay taxes to the government that pro-
tects ttiem. For this I did not at all liccfl tlie warn-
ing which Mr. Eva gave me, that the one thing wliieh
the French would not tolerate was interference with
their f^ov<'rnment work. At ("hieiifi Kawufj ! took
leave of French territory, with nolliiuji but fecliii;is of
gratitude for the uniforu) |»i'rsonal kindness of their
oSicials, and their appar«itly kind interest In our
THE REOION8 BEYOND 401
work. That work I niutit now diHrniMn wuli the very
brief oiitlino I have given. I believe that light was
( onvpypd In nijin.v sickn-H after truth, and seed was
hown wbi< h will nut be lost.
From Vh\eng Kawng nnwardii I was on old touring
pruiind, mill jiiiioHf,' fii» n.Is. I spt iif a Snndny there,
luude a slmrt v'mit lo flic .i.sA hills, iitiil Liiiiul a warm
welcome in Chicng IMi fi<.iii thi- two missionary fam-
ilies who were now establii^ed in that station, as well
as fiom in.v many t);itivc fii.-nds. Here I m-eived my
long dL'Kirwl mail. ItH ^ood cheer was tempered by
one sad piece of tows— the death of my siater Maiy
and ui\ hr<; 'i«'p Kvandcr, the last of my own mother's
ihildicii On May lUtli I cnlcrcil ii|Min niy own thrco-
scoit! and lentil year. Ix^uving ( "hieng Kai on the 18th,
I reached home on the 2«th, after an absence of fonr
and a half niontlis.
Meanwhile the work it onr own md in aU the
other stations had ln^'n euerge;!- . ''v prosecuted by a
faithfu and of younger workers, u ■ t- nrepared than
the old ones to oarry it on to :• (. i And the
othj-r long tour to the Englinh te ■ . ianned for
the later portion of the year, was t.i.'.<:ts iully carried
ont by Dr. Briggs, Bev. Mr. Dodd, and Ber. Mr. Irwin.
XXXIV
THE CLOSED DOOR
HE tour of 1898 was undertaken with two upe-
(iiil objoots in view: (1) to follow up the
auspifiou.s begiuuin};^ of work among the Kainu
and LamSt tribes, tlie largest and moHt important
within the nionnliiin area cxjdored during the previ
ous M^asou, and, apparent l.v, ready as a body to accept
the (lospel; and (2) t«i secure the Nanction of the
French government for continued work in French ter-
rili>rv. 1 was unable to secure i niissionarv colleague
for the lour, and therefore went accompanied only by
native evangel ists. I took the most direct ronte, erod-
ing the Me Kong at Pak Il^ng, following the Il^ug
reiver to its source, and I'rossin;^ by the jiass at its
head to Muang Sal, the |H)int at which the most
promising work of the previous tour was begun. The
journey so fnr occupied nearly a month's time.
The tour \v;is organized on notice too sho.'t to per-
mit my passport from the United States Minister in
Bangkok to reach me in Chiengmai before I started.
It was. therefnre, smf on direct to the I'^rench author
ities at Luang I'rabang. Meantime M. Vackle, the
Commandant Snp^rienr, who was so kind to us the
year before, Iiad In'en 8U|)erse<le<l by M. Luce; and him,
unfortunately, we just niiss<Ml at t!ie crossing of the
Me Ivfing. He passed up In a steamer the day iKjfore
we reached the river, liy the time we reached M6ang
THE CLOSED DOOR
403
Sai, M. Luce had returned to Luang Trabung, and bad
wired to the ofBee in Mdaiig Sat that my pamport
was come, and that I was expected in Liiang Prabang.
No inatructions were given regarding my work, and
the aathorities were in doubt what to do. Under the
circuinsranct's. tlie only passport they could imae was
one to tlic capital, Luanp I'labanf;.
They were not particular, however, as to the route
I should take. So I chose a circuit to the northeast,
leading (hrouph the mountain region to the 0 River,
down which 1 could descend bv boat to Lfiuiifi I'ra-
bang. This would enable me to lind Nan Tit, ine Kaniu
scholar whom I met at Mdang Sai on my previous
tour, and to visit with liiiii a few Kaiiiii villages. The
extent of the v oik 1 ho|»ed to undertake that season
would depend upon the opening I found there. A pass-
port was given ine by that route, and a soldier was sent
aUtng as gtiide and escort.
Nan Tit, as 1 hoi>ed, had read the books 1 gave him,
had prepared rhe way for me by teaching the sub-
stance of them t(» his neighbours, and now would as-
sist me in teaching his tribe. With him as interpreter
and assistant we visited a number of coniiguous vil-
lages, holding night conferences, at which the whole
population of the village would lie present. Every-
where a wonderfully ready respon.se was given to the
Gospel. They, too, were oppressed by the dread of
spirits, and welcomed deliverance from their bondage.
They would aci«>pl the Gospel, but, naturally, referred
us on to the Via.
To his village at last we went. He was a venerabte
man near seventy, and though for years hopelessly
crippled by paralysis of the lower limbs, his bright
mind and business talents had raised him to his pres
404 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
put posit iuu, aud given him u commanding intiiienee. I
shall never foi^t our first interview. He had heard
the rumour Hint tmr rclijiion could overcoiiio the spirits
and Buve from sin. Crawling painfully on his hands to
meet us, he welcomed us to his village and hiH people.
He had heard of the JesuH-religion, and wished to
embrace it. Since he was old, he must do it soon.
This was <»u Friday afternoon. Ity Saturday night
every family in the place had made the same decision,
and woidd begin by keeping their tirst Salihath next
(lav. Our elders entered with lieart and soul into
teaching thei.i. The young fctlks s(»ou learned a verse
or two of " The Happy Land," and some a verse or two
in the Catechism. Next morning, before I was dressed,
(dd and young of b<»th sexes were gathering to learn
how to keep the Sabbath. Tt was a great day. just the
like of which I liad never seen. It settled the deci-
sion of hundreds, possibly of thousands, of jteople.
Still, everytliing depended ujjon the French author-
ities. They could forbid our teaching, as, in fact, tbej
afterward- did. Hut up to this point I could not be-
lieve that they would. A prompt an<l candid inter-
view seemed all that would be necessary to settle that
matter, and make the Kamns feel safe. If such an
o|»ening were found, I had detcrruined to reuuiin with
them throughout the season. Hut in that ease my
family and the mission must be informed. More medi-
cine and books and some comforts would l>e reijuired to
carry me through. It was, therefore, decided to move
on a day's journey to Mfiang La, a convenient point,
leave there two elders to instruct the people, and Bcaad
back three carrirrs to (Miiengmai for the needed sup-
plies and another elder; while I went «»n overland to
Mt^ung Kwa, aud there took boat down the C Uiver.
THE CLOSED DOOR 405
Tile iiiojiitaiu sicnory along this river is very beauti-
ful, especially so near Its jnnctioo with the M« K8ng.
We reacbfHl Lfiaiif,' Pialian}; on Monday, May 9tb, and
tailed at once on M. Grant, wbo was so kind to m Jlie
year before. He gave me a greeting as warm as ever.
The king was having an interview with M. Loce that
• lay, so I coiiKi not see hini till Tnesday. I d!ne<l thai
night with M. tJrant, he himself coming at dusk to
walk over with me. We had a delightful evening.
TlitMc liad hccn a regular exodus of Kamits that year to
^'hiengmai and other souflHTii provinces. M. (Iraut
asked if I had heard any reason assigned for it. 1 t«)ld
him that T had heard of three— the deamess of rice,
owing to the failure of the last crup; the exhaustion
of the mountain lands, and the lack of remunerative
employment by which they could earn the money re
quired to pay their taxes.
On Tuesday afternoon the Commandant Sup^rieur
sent his secretary to invite me to an interview, ile,
too, gave me a cordial greeting. He had received my
passport together with a letter of introduction from
the Consul Odn^ral in Mangkok. I had also a kind
personal letter from our United States Minister, Mr.
John Barrett. He had used his personal influence, and
a><suif'(l me that if would all Ik; right. .My interview
was very plea.sant. M. Luce enquii-ed abcjul our mis
sion work, the namber of our converts, and other sim-
ilar matters. He then ref« iit'd to the large emigra-
tion of Ramus; aske.l if I had heard of any reason for
it, and bow many of our three thousand converts were
Kamas. He was much surprised to learn that the
converts were almost entirely I.ao, with not a half
doisen Kamus among them. Putting his anxiety about
the emigration and our work among these people to-
406 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
gether, it wemed to me later that be must have
tbouf^lit tht' tiKivcnicnt a rolifjious nno.
When, at last, 1 stated luy spt'!.-iul errand tu the
city, naiiH ;.v, that a number of villages in his province
were interested in onr relijiiou, that I wislietl to teach
them fnrtlitr, ami that, simc tliey weiv Krondi sub-
jeets, I (houylil it jiruiter tti inform him and secure his
sanction, he thanked me for doing ho, but his man-
ner at once changed. He said he should have to con-
sult the kin^' aliout that; the niountaia i»e«»ple were
hard to iiach ; the country was unliealthy; the Catholic
niigftionarief* in the sooth were living, or bad left ; the
kin<; would fear that flio Kaiiiii'; miuhl liecnuie disloyal
to him if they became Christians. To tins I replied
that the native officials had uniformly granted us per-
mission to teach among their subjects; that they
i-eaiizcd that it was a lieiietit to their country, and
even gave us their a.ssislame; and that it was the fixed
policy of oar miminn to teach Christians loyalty to
their rulers. M. l.mv sai<l he woiild consult with the
king, and would let me know the decision. I expressed
my wish to pay my resjiects to the king, which he said
was a very proper thing, and, on my leaving, he gave me
a cordial inviialiim to dine with him that night.
>.'ext day, through M. CJraut, 1 secured a very pleas-
ant intervfew with the king. My long residence in the
.uiintry and acquaintance with both Siamese and LSo
otlit ials, gave us much common ground for conversa-
tion, lie was pleased that 1 had known their
Majesties, the present King of Hiam and his father, his
fr)riiier liejielords. (^uife in line with native ideas,
he thought i must Im a man of great nierit to be so
old imd y^ so strong. I explained at his request the
teaching ef onr religion, pointing out some of its dis-
THE CLOSED DOOR 407
tinctive differencefl from Buddhism, in all of which
things he was interested. He said that it was all very
good, but ho was born and reared in the Huddhist wor-
ship, and was too old to change. Gradually introduc-
ing my errand, I told him of my interest in the Kamns,
and (if their desire to become Christians; that I had
come down to get permission to work among them.
We taught them a better morality, of which loyalty to
rulers was a fundamental article, mjoined by Jesus on
His discipU's. Ho raised the objection that (he Kamus
were ignorant, una we would tind them harder to teach
than the Lfto. To this I replied that these villagers
had become l)elievers, and I was going to spend sereral
monrbs in teaching them. He asked if I did not think
I was running g.eat risk in living so long in the forest,
and so far away from home " Well," said I, " I am
used to life in the forest and jungle, and you can see
for yourself how 1 have fai-ed." At which he smiled,
and made no further objection. 1 left with the firm
conviction that if M. Luce were not unwilling, there
Wdtild Ih) no difliculty with him.
While at dinner that night, I informed M. Luce of
my pleasant audience with the king; how I told him my
plans, and be had virtually given his consent. "Is
that so? " said he. " I must see the king myself about
that." And as I took my leave, he said again, " I will
«ee the king to-morrow, and will let you know the
result."
The next afternoon, Thursday, M. I.uce had a long
interview at the Prince's residence. On Friday after-
noon I called on M. Grant on my way to the Com-
mandant's oflice. He told me that M. l.u.'c wished to
see me, but had instructed him to notify me that the
king did not understand that I was to si)end several
408 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
months among the Kamns — thongh he certainly did,
or why sh«)uld he have raised the question of my
healtli? 1 n-iiiinded M. (Irant that my passport was
not to the king, but to the French authorities. All
the world recognired the country as French territory.
It would have been considered a discourtesy to tlie
French if the representative of the United States had
sent a letter tu the king as such. He admitted
that in a limited sense this was true ; but tliey did not
treat the king as a compiered vassal. Cochin China
had fought the French, and had been comjuered and
annexed. But Liiang Prabfing had put itself under
llu'ir protection without firing a gun. M. Grant de-
livered his uipssaj^e with as much consideration toward
my disappointment as was consistent with loyalty to
his superior. But my disappointment I could not
concoa!.
M. Luce, 1 was informed, was very busy that day,
but would be glad to see me on Saturday afternoon.
The decision, however, was irreversible. Further
prossHit' would be useless, and mif?ht he unwise, in
that case, I said, of course 1 must submit. I had
shown i»ropcr respect for the ruling authority, and my
own desire to avoid future mi.sunderstandin{j, by iiiak
infj; t!ic long iiud costly journey to Luang rrabang.
.My errand was now ended. 1 would take my leave
at once, and return next morning.
Tills Ix int; icjiorted to M. Luce, lie sent wf)rd that
lie must .see me bi'lui-e 1 left. 1 might come immedi-
ately. Personally, again, he was very kind, but made
a studied effort to put the responsibility upon the
king, whii. ;i>^ ln' s;>id, had not understood that I
wished to make a long slay among the Kiimus, which
he thought was unsafe for me. Of conn^, I had no
THE CLOSED DOOB
409
complaint to make of the king, who had been most
Rra(i<,ns. I submitted to their decision, and would
return home. But my arrangprnents required my re-
turn to the Kamu villages, where I had left my "men
and my goods, sv.ul would be detained there till my
messengers sii,.u!d return from ChienRmai -which, he
said, was all right Since the i-espoiisibilK v had lK.en
put on the king, and the adverse decision had been
based sol. l.v on thc^ danger to my personal health and
safety, 1 thought if unwise to raise the question of
native aBsistanis, and so felt free to leave these on
the ground to teach the new believers, as, indeed, I
felt under obligation to do.
Thanking M. Luce for all his personal kindness, I
begged to take my leave of him then, so that I might
start on my return the next morning. But he evi-
dently was n(.t satisfied with his t.wn part in the mat-
ter, and wished to make some i>ersonal amends to
soothe my disappointmoit. He hoped I would not
leave in the morning, but would remain till Monday,
and give him the pleasure of a dinner with me and m!
Giant on Sunday night. 1 hoped he would still ex^
cuse me, since, if I remained, that would be our time
for puhli.' w(.rship. "Then." ^;iid be. " ac shall be
pleased to have you on Satnniay night; and if you
are not ready now to give an affirmative reply, I hope
you will so arrange it as to notify my secretary in the
morning." Notwilhsfandiug bis evident disiagenu-
ousnesH in trying to shift the respounibility for liis
own acts to another, there was no reason for making
i( i>. personal matter; and it would be impolitic to leave
apparently angry. So I do.id.Hl to remain tin Mon-
day, and accepted the invitatirm for Saturday night.
I feared there would be great constraint on both
4lO AMONO THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
sides at the diuuer; but in this I was agreeably dis-
appointed. That very day a long telegram bad ar-
rived, reporting the declarntion of war with Spain,
and the particulars of the great naval victory of
Manila Bay. On my arrival at his house. M. Lnre
handed me a full translation of these into i:iiKli«h.
which he had had made for me. They weie much sur-
prised at the victory, f«)r they thought the Spanish
navy ranch larger and stronger than ours; and they
were high in their praise of the victors. We really
had a delightful time. After dinner our host and M.
(J rant both laid themselves out to show me beautiful
maps and pictures. M. Luce invited me tt> call on
Monday morning, and he would si-iid a long telegram
to my wife without charge. This he did, and we all
parted friends. The departure on the 16th, my sev-
entieth birthday, was not as jc.yful as 1 had lio]"'d.
On my retinii to ^lining Sal, 1 fouud that my car-
riers had been delayed by sore feet and sickness. I
could not leave till they came, for fear of missing
them and causing further toiiiplications. So my long
trip home was thrown into the middle of a very rainy
season. 1 had to apologize as best I could to the new
converts for the cl»ange in my plan to irnuiiu with
tlu ni. \W ih» y were glad to have our elders stay and
i. a. Ii them. If that shady tree on the little hill at
.Muaug Sai could speak, it would tell of much anxious
prayer on leaving the Christiai s and starting on the
lujig j(mmey before me. My Ebeneaer was left on that
tree.
That journey was altogether the worst I ever had.
I did not reach home till August Ctli, after the longest
t..ur 1 Iiad . ver takeu. M. Luce's telegram had pre-
pared my family and friends for my changed plans.
THE CLOSED DOOR
411
A few lines mast close the history of the work
niuonK the Kiimus. In December the three evangelisti
returned with a most enfouruKiug report. The con-
verts had remained tirm, and others wcit: waiting to
join them. The next season a native minister was
sent to tlicm. In ]!Hi;{ tlie mission ventiuvd to send
two of our younger men, Dr. Campell and Mr. Mai kay.
to Mfiang Hai, to visit the Christians, and respond to a
pressing call to extend the work. Imagine their sur-
|)nse on reaching Mflang Sai to tlnd that the h»cul
commissiouei- imd received orders to forbid our mis-
sionaries to visit the Christian commnnit.v. or to hold
any relifilims service with them, on |K'ii:ilt.v of being
conducted out of the country, in force i«" necessary.
The command was so imperative that tlie Commis-
sioner dared not disobey. He begged them for his sake
(u rcfmn [»eaceahly. \o eflFort has been made since
to reach the Christians at Mdang Sai, or to extend
the work.
It will l>e remembered that a few members of the
Chienfi Sj'u chincli— never more than half a dozen
families- lived on the east banli of the Kong, in
French territory. So objectionable was the very pres-
ence of a mission. iry jiakiiifj a few days' visit among
his dock, that it was regarded of sutlicient imjioriance
to warrant an official protest from the aulliorities at
Liian^' I'rjihnn};. seii* through the Governor General
of Hanoi, and llie i'uited States Minister at Bangkok.
Complaint was made of a visit made by the Rev ,
who had exhibited Scripture pictures and distributed
hooks amon^i the people whicli was so contrary to
their policy that they forbade the Koiiian Catholic
missionaries from working in their territory. They
begged that the thing be not repeated I For the credit
41 J AM()N«J lili: SIAMESE AND THE LAO
of the Fi( uch utillmrif ieH I mIiuuIiI liave been glad to
Bopprewi the latter part of tbia atory. But, on the
otluT tiiind, 1 tbiuk it sh(.\i M 1k> kr .wn, in order that
it niiiy bf.onit' a l.tinlen «»u the pru.vera of the Cbria-
tiau world of uH dentnuinationa, that God's ^fldrace
may opoi the whole penionrift of Indo^hlaa to the
preaching of the QoapeU
XXXV
CONCLUHION
MY advaaeiiig aRe rantesti the wiadom of not
attempting fr» (ontinue this fiersnnal nar-
rative Ijeyctnd tlie account ju8t givea of inv
last long misaionary tour. I may venture to add,
however, by way of cooelnaioii, a few fraggefitiim and
.TiticiHms corKfrninR the work of onr mission as a
whole, and brietly notice a few of the more iun»ortant
peraonaiitiea and erents of tfaMe later yeara.
Special prominence huN been given througkoot to
the evangelistic work, m being the foundation of all
other missionary work. A Christian Church and a
Chriatian conatitaeney nraat be tb« flmt aim in all mla-
Hions. In this we have not been unsuccessful. Our
ideals, it is true, have not been realized. W have
not witneaaed among the Riamese or the LSo any racial
movement towards Christianity; nor have there been
any great revivals resulting.' in largo accessions t« the
cborch. Both of these we hope for in the not far
distant fntnre. Yet tbe uniform, bealthfal growth of
the church, as distingniabed frotn spasmodic or spo-
radic increase, has been most gratifying. Seldom docs
a week pass without accessions to some of our
cbnrchea.
An adult membership of four thousand is a good
foundation. And it must never be forgotten that the
roll of cbnrch-memberahip ia a very inadequate index
41S
414 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
of the real influence and power of a mission. In addi-
tion to a mnch lar}?er constituency of adherents, there
is our large roll of non-communing members, the hope
of the future church. And signs of most hopeful
promise have appeared within the present year. The
growth of the Chieng Kai church during that time has
been surpassed only by the results of Dr. Campbell's
recent tours, amounting to eighty accessions within a
few weeks. The supporters of our missions have every
cjiuse for gratitude, and a call for earnest, effectual
prayer in their behalf.
A review of our evangelistic work suggests one or
two criticisms. On one line at least, with a smaller
amount of hard work done by the missionary himself,
we might have accomplished more, might now be better
prepared for advanced work, and the native church
might be better able to stand alone, if we had ad-
dressed our efforts more steadily to the development
and use of native assistance. While we have not had
the material of well educated young men out of which
to form a theological seminary and to furnish a fully
equipped native ministry, we have not used, to the
extent to which we should have used it, the material
which was available. For a mission as old as ours, we
must confess that in this most important matter we
are very backward.
Th^ delay in starting our school for boys was not
our fault; it was inevitable. The Lao rulers of the
earlier years were absolutely indifferent to all educa-
tion, and were positively jealous of any that was given
by the mission. But as the church began to increase,
we had accessions of men trained in the Buddhist
priesthood. Some of these were among the best edu-
cated men in the country. They understood— as
CONCLUSION
415
young men even from mission schools could not be
expected to understand — the religion, the modes of
thought, the needs of their own people, and how to
reach them. Their education, however deficient,
brought them many comi)ensations. They form the
class from which nearly all of our evangelists have
been drawn. When such men have been drilled in
the Scriptures, their Buddhistic knowledge malies them
the very best men for successful work among their
countrymen. They visit and sleep in the homes of
their people, and are one with ihem. The missionary
in his work mnst rely largely on thdr jndgm^t and
advice.
It mnst not be understood that we have not taught
these men or u^d them. A great deal of labour has
been spent in training them; very much in the same
way in which in American churches, a generation ago,
busy pastors trained up young men to be some of our
best ministers. The criticism I make — and in it I
believe all my colleagues will concur — is that we have
not made as much of them as we should have done.
No doubt there have been diflSculties in the way. Their
families must somehow be provided for during the
process. The native churches were not strong enough
to undertake their support. We were warned that to
aid them with foreign funds would make the churches
mercenary. What the missionary himself sometimes
did to eke out their subsistence was irregular and
difficult, and often unsatisfactory. But the labourer
is worthy of his hire. Hungry mouths must be fed.
The Board and the churches at home do not begrudge
a thousand dollars or more to support a missionary in
the fidd. Should they begrudge the same amount
spent up<MD half a dozen men who will treble or
416 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
quadruple the missionary's work and his intluencp?
In any business it is poor policy to employ a high-
salaried foreman, and then not furnish him cheaper
men to do that which unskilled labour can accomplish
better than he.
In this matter, as in some others, we might have
learned valuable lessons from our nearest missionary
neighbours in Burma, even though the conditions of
our work have been in many resjtects vtiv different
from theirs. Maliing all allowance for our condi-
tiona, I frankly confess that our greatest mistake has
probably been in doing too much of the work our-
selves, instead of training others to do it, and work-
ing through them. This conviction, however, must not
in the least lead us to relax our efforts in the line
of general education. For the ultimate establishment
of the church, and to meet the demands of the age,
we must have workmen thoroughly equipped. Till
that time comes, we must, as we should more fully
have done hitherto, rely on whatever good working
material we find ready to hand.
With regard to plans and methods of work, an-
other thought suggests itself. In a business organized
as ours is, where the majority in the Annual Meet-
ing has absolute power, it is difficult to avoid the ap-
pearance—and sometimes the reality— of a vacillating
policy. New stations are established, and mission-
aries are located by the ballot of the mission there
assembled. From year to year the personnel of the
mission is constantly changing by reason of furloughs,
breakdown of health, and necessary removals. We
make our disposition of forces at one meeting, and at
the next an entirely new disposition has become neces-
CONCLUSION
417
sary. A family has been left alone without a physi-
dan or associate. Missionary enthusiaHm, or an
earnest minority interested in a particular field or a
particular cause, may initiate a policy which a rob-
sequent majority may be unable to sanction, or which
it may be found difficult or impossible to carry out.
Again, as between the policy of maintaining one
strong central station, and that of maintaining sev-
eral smaller ones in difl'eient |>arts of the country, it
is often difficult to decide. With the aim originally
of establishing the Gospel in all the states under
Siamese rule, we seem to have been led to adopt the
latter policy. Through God's blessing on evangelistic
tours, in Lampun and in the frontier provinces of
the north, there grew up churches which called for
missionary oversight. The famine in Pr6 summoned
U£ thither; and to secure the worlt then done, a mis-
sionary in residmce was needed. Though no church
had been formed in Kan, yet our tours had opened
the way to one, and the importance of the province
anu its distance from our centre demanded a station.
In every case these stations were opened with the cor-
dial approval of the mission and of the Board at
home. Yet it has been difficult to keep them all
manned, as has been specially true in the case of Pr6
— and there to the great detriment of the work. It
is easy to say now that a strong central policy might
have been better. And that criticism would prob-
ably hit me harder than anyone else, for I have sanc-
tioned the establishment of every me of those sta-
tioiis. It is possible that a more centralized organi-
zation might have accomplished more toward the edu-
cation of native workers — ^the point last under dis-
cossion.
418 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LkO
With reference to the establishment of stations in
the north beyond the frontier of Siam, there wa.« not
until recently absolute unanimity in the mission. But
that was not from any diversity of opinion as re-
gards the (juestion iu itself, but because a sister de-
noniinaliou had established itself there. There lias
never been reasonable ground for doubt that the lau
guage and race of the ruling class, and of the pop-
ulation of the plains would naturally assign them to
the Lflo mission. Aud no other mission is s.' well
equipped for working that field. A Lflo Inland Mis-
sion, somewhat on the plan of the China Inland Mis
sion, would be an ideal scheuit for i-eaohing the whole
of the Tai-speaking peoples of the north and northeast
under English and French and Chinese rule. The
obligation to carry the Gospel to those peoples should
rest heavily on the consrienee of the Christian Church,
and on our Church in particular. Who will volun-
teer to be the leaders?
It has already been noticed that in our educational
work the Girls' School had the precedence in time, and
possibly in importance. Boys did at least learn to
read and write in the monasteries. At the time of
our arrival in Chiengmai, only two women in the
province could read. The Chiengmai Girls' School
has had a wide educational influence ihroughont the
north, and to-day our Girls' Schools have practically
no com[)etitors.
The Phraner Memorial School for small children,
in connection with the Firet Church, Chiengmai, un-
der Mrs. Campbell's dii. ction, is preparing material
both for High Schools and for the College. We have
good schools for girls in Lakawn, NSn, and Chieng
B&i; and parochial mixed schools in most of our
CONCLUSION 419
country chnrches and ont-stations. The young womoi
who have been engaged in this department, and many
self-saciiUcmg married women, have great reason to
rejoice over the work accomplished. Xo greater work
can be done than that of educating the wives and
mothers of the churdi and fhe land. I>:diHated Chris-
tian men are greatly handicapped when consorted
with illiterate and superstitious wives. Without a
Christian wife and mother there can be no Christian
family, the fciindation both of the church and of
the Christian State.
On a recent visit to Chiengmai, Princess Darft Rat-
sami— one of the wivrs «,f His late Majesty of Siam,
and daughter of Prince Intauoii of r'hienfjmai and his
wife, the Princess Tipakesawn, often mentioned in the
Iirecoding narrative— was much interested in the Girls'
Sehodl, and was pleased to name it the Phra Rjij-
chayar School, after herself— using therefor her title,
and not her personal name.
The mi.ssion had been founded twenty years before
it had, and almost before it could have had, a School
for Boys. It is the intention of the mission to make
of this school— the Prince Royal Colleg&-the future
Christian College. Similar schools have been estab-
lishad in the other stations.
Since the Siamese government assumed control in
the North, it has manifested a laudable aeal in estab-
lishing schools, in which, howeve r, the Siamese lan-
guage alone is taught. His Majesty is most fortunate
m having such an able and progressive representative
in the North as the present High Commissioner, Chow
Praya Surasih Visithasakdi. And the country is no
less fortunate in having a ruler whose high personal
character and wise administration command the con
420 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
fldencc a^d rt'spect of all rlassos. He is intcrcstrd
ii (>dn;i.liu}j tlif people, and in everything that ad-
vances the interests of the country.
I regard the educa^'onal question as the great ques-
tion now iK'foro the inissicm. The existeure of the
Siamese schools greatly emphasizes the importance
of our own work, and the necessity of maintaining a
high standard and a stronfj teaching force in Siamese,
Euglish, mathematics, and the sciences. Their schools
then will be tributary to ours.
The ultimate prevalence of the Sian^se language
in all the provinces under Siamese rule, has been in-
evitable from the start. All f,'()vernments realize the
ortance of a uniform language in unifying a peo-
ple, and have no interest whatever in perpetuating a
provincial <lialect. The Siamese, in fact, look down
with a kind of disdain upon the Lao speech, and use
it only as a temporary necessity during the period of
transition. And the Siamese is really the richer of
the two by reason of itt large borrowing 'rom the
Pal'., the better scholarship behind it, and its closer
connection with the o' "Hd.
These two forms of ■ ^»oech — with a common
idiom, and with the ^ '.-jdy of words in both
identical, or differing only in vocal inflection — have
been kept apart chiefly by the fact that they have dif-
ferent written characters. All of the Lao women and
children, and two-thirds of the men had to be taught
to read, whichever character were adopted; and they
could have learned the one form quite as easily as the
other. Had the mission adopted *he Siamese char-
acter from the start, it would now be master of the
educational situation, working on a uniform scheme
with the Siamese Educational Department. More-
E
f
CONCLUSION
421
over, the Simiioso lanKiiiiKC In our scliools would have
been a distiud atfr-clion tdwiinl ediicafion and
toward Cbiistiauity. And thus there would have
been available for the North the laboara of two or
more generations of able workers in the southern
niission, from which so far the Lao chunh has been
mostly cut off. The whole liible would have been ac-
cessible from the flnt; whereas now nearly half of it
remains still untranslated into the Lao. If the future
needs of the Hianiese provinces alone were to be con-
sidered, it might even be doubted whether it were
worth while to complete the translation. When the
monks, in their studies teadiiuf?, adopt the
Siamese, as it is n(»w the intention of the government
> have them do, Lao books will soon be without read-
e. 1 throughout Siam. When for the young a choice
is iKWaible in the matter of such a transcendent instru
ment of thought and culture as language, all surely
would wish their training to be in that one which has
in it the promise of the future. These words are
written in no idle criticism of the past, and in no
captious spirit regarding the present; but with full
sense of the gravity of the decision which confronts
the mission in shaping its educational policy for those
who henceforth are to be Siamese.
Meanwhile, Lfio type and books in the LJlo dialect
are needed, not merely for the present generation of
older people who cannot or will not learn a new char-
acter, but also for the instruction and Christianization
of that much lai^r mass of Lfto folk beyond the
frontier of Siam as revealed by recent explorations.
Removed, as these are, entirely from the political and
cultural influence of Siam, and divided up under the
jnrisdiction of ee great nations of diverse and
422 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAo
alien speech, it ia inconcelrable tl.al the siaimso
should ever win the aarendency over tliem. Nor has
pither <.f these nations any inunediate and pressing
incentive toward unify ins the upeech of itii prorindals,
RQch 88 hag actuated Siam in this matter. If tlie
field of thf' T.ao mission is to be extended to include
these " regions beyond "—as we all hope that it soon
may be— Lflo speech will inevitably be the medium of
all its worli theiv. Then all tiial so far luis been ac-
coiiiplislu'd in tiie way of translation, writing, and
printing in the Lao tongue, will be so much Invaluable
capital to be turned over to the newei intentrise.
As regards tiie medical department of the mission,
the T.ao"lield has been an ideal one lor its operation
and for demonstration of its results. When the field
was virtually closed to the simple tlospel. tlif» mis-
sicnary physician fonnd everywhere an exalted, not
to say exaggerated, idea of the efficacy of foreign medi-
cine, and a warm welcome for timself. Dr. Cheek,
who virtually lonuded ..nr ret,nilar i.K'dical work among
tli»' Lao. had been on the field but a short time when
he i-eported thirteen thousand patients treated in one
year. Probably no subsequent physician has liad such
absolute control of the situation as he had. so long as
he gave his time and talents to his calling. But even
the layman finds his medical chest an invaluable ad-
junct to his evangelistic work, as we have had fre-
quent occasion to notice. We are devoutly thankful
for— we might almost envy— the influence that our
medical missionaries have exerted In the civilization
and (lie Clii istianizatitm of tlie Lao tribes.
Somewhat of the present status and imporiance of
the medical mission may be judged from the follow-
ing facts: Dr. J. W. McKean's projected Leper Asylum
CONCLUSION
428
is the largest charitahle institatlon ever planned in
fhe kiiifrdnin. e new Orerbfook llospilal in Cb'enp
Rai, the generouH jtift of the Gent faniil.v of Ovi >ok,
PennRylvania, is the flnest building iu the luiKsion.
The Charles T. Van Santroonl Hospital in Lakawn
is another similar pin. Native ph.\sii'iaiiM, Iniincd as
far as present opportunities permit in Western surgery
and medicine, are now maintained at certain posts by
the Siaiiie.si- government. And eKi)ecially the work of
Dr. Arthur Kerr, the Koverninont jthysitian in Chicng-
mui, and his unremitting kindness to the mission, are
deeply appreciated by ns all.
1 lannot close these remarks wlthont making spe-
cial reference to the work of my old friend and
classmate and early associate in the mission, Dr.
Jonathan Wilson. In addition to his other most
valuable labours, he si»ent years of loving and devoted
service in the preparation of hymns for Lao worabip,
which will monld and lead the spiritnal life of this
people for years to come. The Lao are lovers of
music. Many of them have leceived mu< ?i of their re-
ligious instruction through the use of i <■ hymns.
His inSnoice in the LSn chnrch may tie c(»^pared to
that of Watts and Wesley for the t^nglkit r^.
Onr long isolation as a mission has enaUed ii to
appreciate the coming to us in late years of *a aijifciu
of distinguished visitors, who have greatly en-
aged and strengthened us.
At the Annual Meeting in December, 1900, we
favoured with a visit from our United States II nisi
Hon. Hamilton King, and his two daughters. U
ferring to his visit, the Lao Quarterly Letter" said
"His addresses to the missionaries and native a^
.24 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LXO
istera and eldem of the Pre8b;y U rv were much appre-
ciated, and our lar^e cliurch building waH crowded on
two BOCcesHive 8abbatbH to hear his eloquent words
of encouragement to native Cbriatiana, and his warm
lommendation of (^briHtianity to non ('hrintians. It
h.is lH>cn said that one of !li(> boat hings which a
I'nited States Miuiater cau tak« to a n^n-Chrigtian
land is a good Christian home. And thi • is JiMt wliat
Mr. Kinn has broiij^lit to Siain."
At tlie Annual Meeting of the following year, in
Lakawn, w< reeeived the first ofBcial viait we ever had
from one of the Secretaries of onr Board, in 'person
of Kcv. Arthur J. Itrown, P.I)., accompanied by his
good wife. The importance of these Hecietarial visits
to distant missions can hardly be overestimated. It ia
impossible to legislate intelligently for a constituency
twelve tbonsand miles away. No amount of writing
can give the varied kinds of information necessary
tor a fall understanding of the people, the mission-
aries, their surroundings, and the needs of the field,
which a single visit Will convey. Then, too, there are
qaestions of administration and mission polity, re-
quiring settlement in the home Hoard, which can
with difficulty be understood through correspondence.
Dr. Brown's oflScial visit was most helpful, as also
his words of encouragement, his sermons and ad-
dresses. The pleasure derived from the personal visits
of Dr. and Mrs. I5rown to various members of the
Mission will always linger in our memories.
Another notable visit to Cbiengmai was that of
the Crown Prince of Siam, now His Majesty Maha
Vajiravudh, in the winter of 1905-6. On this visit His
Royal Highness very graciously accepted the invita-
tion of the mission to lay the corner stone of the Will-
CONCLUSION
425
iam Allen Butler Hall, the recitation hall of the new-
Boys' School. On that occasion he delivered an ad-
dress, of which the following is a translation:
"Ladies and Gentlemen: — I have listened with great
pleasure to the complimentary remarks which have just been
made. I regard them as indisputable evidence of your
friendship for the whole Kingdom of Siam.
" During my visit to the United States, the American
people were pleased to gire me a most enthusiastic welcome.
I may mention particularly the sumptuous banquet with
which your Board of Foreign Missions honoured me. I
perceived clearly that the American people received me
whole-heartedly and not perfunctorily. This also made
it evident to me that the American people have a sincere
friendship for the Kingdom of Siam. Of this fact I was
profoundly convinced, and I certainly shall not soon forget
my visit to the United States.
" This being so, I feel compelled to reciprocate this kind-
ness to the full extent of my ability. As my Buyal Grand-
father and my Boyal Father have befriended the mission-
aries, so I trust that I too shall have opportunity, on
proper occasions, to assist them to the limits of my power.
"Tour invitation to me to-day to lay the comer stone
of your new School Building, is another evidence of your
friendship and goodwill toward Siam. I have full confi-
dence that you will make every endeavour to teach the
students to use their knowledge for the welfare of their
country. Therefore I take great pleasure in complying with
your request, and T invoke a rich blessing on this new in-
stitution. May it prosper and fulfil the highest expecta-
tions of its foun<terfll"
In response to a request from the Principal that he
would name the new school, His Royal Highness sent
the following reply :
"Chienomai, .January 2d, 1906.
" I have great pleasure in naming the new school, the
foundation stone of which I have just laid. The Prince
Bojral'B CoUege. May this School which I have so named.
426 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
be prosperous, and realize all that its well-wishers hoi^e for
it May it long flourish, and remain a worthy monument of
the enterprise of tlio American Presbyterian _ Church of
Chienamai. This is the wish of their sincere friend,
^ " Vajibatddh."
Little did we then think that His Royal Highness
would so soon be called to till the liigli office left
vacant by the lamented death of his distinguished
father, King Chnlalangkorn, which occurred October
22d, 1910.
In December, 190S, Mi-s. McGilvary's brother, Pro-
fessor Cornelius B. Bradley of the University of Cali-
fornia, while on a visit to the land of his birth and
of his father's labours, paid us a visit in the North.
He was present at our Annual Meeting in Lakawn,
and on Sunday preached the Commnnion sermon, and
again in Chiengmai. It was to the astonishment of all
who heard him, boin natives and foreigners, that he
could converse fluently and flawlessly, and could so
preach, after an absence of thirty-six years. It was
upon this visit to.Siam that he made a special study
and translation of the Sukhothai Stone— the earliest
known monument of the Siamese language.
In company with Professor Bradley came Mr. Wil-
liam McClusky, a business man, on a visit to his
daughter, Mrs. M. B. Palmer. The significance of this
visit lies in the fact that Mr. McClusky has remained
among us, and has identified himself with the work of
the mission, endearing himself to ail.
In V.m :\Irs. Mcf'.ilvary returned to the United
States for a much needed change. I remained on the
field until 1906, when I was cabled for on account
of the very serious state of her health. 1 found her
very low, and my visit was devoted to the restoration
CONCLUSION
427
of her health. In the antnmn she was suflScicntly re-
covered to make onr retam possible, and the voyage
was undertaken in compliance with her own ardent
wish. She was greatly benefited by the sea-voyage, and
since her return her health has been fully restored.
On May Ifith, 1908, my daughter, Mrs. William Har-
ris, gave a dinner in honour of my eightieth birthday,
at which all our missionary and European friends in
Chiengmai were guests. Dr. McKean expressed the
congratulations of my friends in an address, from
which I quote the following : " Eighty years of age,
sir, but not eighty years old! We do not associate
the term old age with you, for you seem to have drunk
of the fount of perpetual youth." But the sentiment
to which I most heartily subscribe is the following:
"There is a common maxim among men to which
we all readily assent; namely, that no man is able to
do his best work in the world without having re-
ceived from God that best of all temporal gifts, a help-
meet for him. We most heartily congratulate you
that, early in your life in Siam, Mrs. McGilvary was
made a partner in this great life work. And no one
knows so well as yourself how large a part she has
had in making possible much of the strenuous work
that you have done. To her, likewise, we offer on this
happy occasion our hearty congratulations and our
fervent wishes for an ever-brightening future ! "
On December 6th, 1910, Mrs. McGilvary and I cele-
brated our Golden Wedding. As this occurred during
the Annual Meeting of the Mission, most of our mis-
sionary friends, as well as our friends of the foreign
colony, were present. Tt was a mnttor of great re-
gret, however, that Dr. Wilson, who was present at
tl» wedding fifty years before, was too feeble to come
428 AMONG THE SIAMESE AND THE LAO
to Chiengmai on this occasion. The many beautiful
gifts received were another tolsen of the loving regard
of our friends and dear ones in this and in the home-
land. Among the many letters an<l telegrams re-
ceived was a cablegram from our children in Amer-
ica. " It was lilie a hand clasp and a whisper of
love flashed around the worid." Dr. Arthur J. Brown,
spealiing for himself and the members of the Board of
Foreign Missions, wrote: "We greatly rejoice in your
long and conspicuously devoted and influential service
for the Lao people. We share the veneration and lov^
with which we know you are regarded by the people
among whom your lives have been spent, and by the
missionaries with whom you have be«i so closely as-
sociated. It woi'ld be a joy if we could join the rela-
tives and friends A-ho will be with you on that happy
day in December. We invoke God's richest bless-
ings on you both. Mrs. Brown and aii my colleagues
in the olBce unite with the members of the Board in
loving congratulations."
One of the most valued of these messages came from
H. R. H. Prince Damrong, Minister of the Interior:
" I just learn from the local papers of the celebration
of your Golden Wedding. I wish you and Mrs. Mc-
Gilvary to accept my sincere congratulations and best
wishes that you both may be spared tc continue your
great work for many more years. Damrong."
Our good friend, H. E. Praya Surasih Visithsakdl,
High Commissioner for the Northwestern Provinces,
brought his congratulations in person, presenting Mrs.
McGilvary with a very rare old Siamese bowl of inlaid
work of silver and gold.
From the native church in Chieng Rai a message in
Lfto was received, of which the following is a transla-
CONCLUSION
429
tion: " The Ohieng Rai Christians invoke Divine bless-
ings on the Father-Teacher and Mother Teacher Mc-
Gllrary, who are by us more beloved than gold."
We were deeply touched oy a most unexpected
demonstration of the Chitngmai Christians, who as-
sembled at our home, and with many expressions of
loving esteem and gratitude presented as with a sil-
ver tray, designed by themselves, on which were repre-
sentetl in relief the progress of the city in these tifty
years: on one end the old bridge, on the other rhe
new bridge just completed; on the two sides, the rest-
house wo occupied ir .ur arrival in Chiengmai, and
our present home. The inscription, in LSo, reads:
"1867-1910. The Christian people of Chiengmai to
Father-Teacher and Mother-Teacher McGilvary, in
memory of your having brought the Good Ne^^'s of
Christ, forty-three years ago." — It makes one feel very
humble to qnote snch expressions from our colleagues
and friends. But it would not be in human nature
to fail to appreciate them.
I would not close this life-story without express-
ng, on behalf of my wife and myt elf, our heartfelt
gratitude to our friends, native and foreign, for the
great kindness shown us in our intercourse with them
during these long years; and, above all, our devout
gratitude to the Giver of all good, for sparing so long
our lives, and crowni.ng them with such rich bless-
ings. Of these the greatest has been in permitting us
to lay the foundations, and to witness the steady
growth of the Church of Christ in Northern Siam.
INDEX
Arthington, Robert, 373-37C,
38(1.
Bradley, Rev. Dan Beach, M.D.,
45, 52, 54-67, «7-70, 131-132,
164, 199.
Buddhist shrines, 172173, 188,
2S2-253.
CennnoBieB and Festivals: Dam
Hfia, 84-86; cremation, 145-
147; dedication of a shrine,
188-189; rice-harvest, 274;
fairs, 327, 356, 366; "kin
waw," 323, 343; sacred days,
318-319; wedding feast, 396;
New Year, 396-397.
Chulalongkom, King of Siam,
211-213, 382. 426.
Commission, Royal, 112, 121-
131.
Conunissioners, High : Praya
T5p Worachun, 193-194, 205,
206, 208, 210, 213-215,
222, 300; Comraisaioner not
named, 300-304; Chow Prayft
Surasth, 419.
Cushing, Rt v. .1. N.. D.D., 138-
139, 244, 247. 2r.O. ;{73.
Demonisin and witcluraft, 75-
76, 91. 03-lt4, 17.J. 194, 203-
.208, 214, 260-270, 278, 321,
324, 331, 340.
Diseases: cholpra, 51; fever,
88, 100. 195, 205. 242;
goitre. 88; smallpox (vacci-
nation), .57, H9-91, 243. 250;
scurvv, 19(1; nioitalitv of re-
peopled districts. 202,'2S2.
Education: f J iris' School. 177-
178, 221-2_'3. 274. 284, 287,
292, 418-419; Boys' School,
284, 291, 300. 419, 424-426;
Phraner Memorial, 377, 418;
|)arooliin1, 418; government,
419 420; educ:ilioiial policy
as regards language, 222-225,
420-422.
Elephants: saddle, 62, 151-152,
157, 246, 249-260, 311-312,
317-318, 330-331. 35S, 369-
360, 382 383; wild, 1.56, 253,
311; baby elephants, 246-247,
309.
Evangeli.sts and ministers, na-
tive, 267-263, 377-380, 414-
416.
Famine, 336, 346, 349-352.
French Indo-China, 332, 364,
358, 384, and chapters xxziii,
xxxiv.
Hallet, Holt S. (railroad sur-
vey) 244-264.
House, Rev. S. R., M.D., 37-
38. *5, 63, 67, 92-93. 110-112.
Intanon, Prince of Chiengmai,
81, 90, 108-109, 132, 137, 142,
145, 187, 193-194, 209, 245,
262, 29.1. 300.
Kamu trilie, 3B8, 393-394, 400.
403, 405. 407, 411.
Karpn:^. 89. 143 144.
KawilOrot. Prince of Chieng-
mai (1855-1870). 57. iu. 69-
70, 85-8(i. 90, 95, 102-106,
121-129, 133-138, 14(M47.
Lao: the name, 13 14. 57-58;
spellinj^ of Lao words. 1213;
people. 58. 15(1; states. 130,
191-192, 218-219, 262; lan-
giiagp, 357. 35S, 420-422, see
also Education; women. 144-
145.
Lao Mission: planted. 77; Rev.
.1. \\'ils(m arrives, 92; fir.st
church organized, 93; a gift
431
482
INDEX
of land, 05; llrnt nntivc mom
bfTH rccfiv.Ml, !t(M()l ; ptTsc
tiition, 10(1-1 17; miHH. Ill niip-
post'dly atrUKloiu'ii, 12(5; iii-
ttTvention, l:tOi:t'i; new
r<iKime. i:»71U; pt'rmuiiont
buililinKi, HO 142; tifMt
phyaiciiin. U!>; <'<irU' S(li(x>l,
177; U'liilii'H arrive, 221-
222; riMiiliiriH'im'iil, 242;
Pn'sbytery orgnniml, 257;
printinK pr«'«s, :120; Cliris-
tian Kmleavor, li-^l ; rtiiiii-
inurieH, 217 2 IH, 225, 2S7-
288, 209. :t04, 401 ; general re-
view, 41M 423.
Later Missioiiarien: Brijiup,
Rev. W. A., M.D., 10, 310,
330 337. 351-352, 401; Camp-
bell, Rev. Howard, .370, 411.
414; Mrtf. CamplK'!!, 418;
Campbell, Miss Mary, 177,
221 222, 234. 230-237, 240;
Cary, A. M.. M.D., 283-284.
290. 298; Clieek, M. A., M.D.,
100, 109, 178, 190, 196, 212,
233, 236-237, 283, 292; Mra.
Cheek, 169, 242, 293; Cole,
Miss Edna E., 177, 221-222,
233, 240, 284, 387; Collins,
Rev. D. G., 283, 284, 296,
301 ; Curtis, Rev. L. VV., 376;
Mrs. Curtis, 9; Denman, C.
H. , M.D., 876, 881, 382-386;
Dodd, Rev. W. C, D.D., 283,
284-286, 289, 291, 296, 301,
368, 377-378, 382, 384, 401;
Mrs. Dodd (Miss B. Eakin),
292, 293, 303; Fleeson, MiH.t,
292, 293, 299; Freeman, Rev.
J. H., 9, 296; Griffin, Miss
I. A., 240, 243. 284, 292, 200;
Hearst, Rev. J. H.. 230, 243;
Irwin, Rev. Robert. 319, 353,
362, 367, 401; Martin, Rev.
Chalmers. 230, 250, 252, 268,
270, 271-273, 270. 283:
McGilvary, Cornelia II. (Mr^.
William Harris). 199. 306,
308-316, 427; Mctiilvaiy.
Hcv. Evander B„ 337, 371;
Mt'<!i1vury, Marffaret A.
(.Mrx. Roderick Gillie*). 197,
:\X, ■ M< Keun, .1. VV., M.D.,
;U>0. 310. 320, 338. .141, 422-
423, 427 ; I'eoplcs, Rev. H. C,
M.I)., 230, 250. 237. 263-266,
•JS!> 20I, .(00, 319. 387; Mrs.
l'eople«, 240; Phraner. Rev.
Slunl. y K.. 319. 320, 326-329,
370 377, 418; Mrs. Phraner
( Lizzie VVe»ter\'elt) , 238, 274,
2H4; Taylor. Rev. Hugh, 299,
308 300; Vrooman, C. W.,
M.D., 149 169. 166.
Native Converts: Ai Tfl
(Praya Pakdi). 277, 280,
287; Cha Pfl Kaw and Cha
Waw. Die under MflsA; Chao
Borirak. 158, 103, 197; Lung
In. 168, 170, 202; NSn Chai,
100-101, 114 117; Nfln Chai-
wana, 200-270; Nan Inta,
96-99. 149, 101, 163, 207, 208,
210, 233, 243, 257, 268; N»n
Ta, 225-228, 234, 243, 248,
258, 272, 276, 277, 283, 299,
.301 ; Nan 81 Wichai. 199, 243;
Nan Suwan, 197-198, 233,
248, 257, 280. 287. 327, 830,
333, 341, 369; Noi Intachak,
230, 257, 260; Noi Siri, 301-
304, 333; Noi Sunya, 99-100,
114-117; Noi Taiiya, 278-279,
290, 334; Pk Seng Bun, 206-
206; PrayB Sfhanat, 199-201,
232-233; Stn UtamS, 230,
232; S*n Ya Wichai, 79, 100,
105, 203, 281, 291.
Maha Mongkut, King of
Slam. 37, 47-48, 70.
Maha V'ajiravudh, King of
8iani, 425-420.
Mattoon. Hev. S., D.D.. 39, 45,
07, 105-100.
MiDoniild, Rov. N. A.. D.D.. 53,
(IS. I():!-104. 121ff.
McF'arland, Rev. S. G., D.D.,
63, 70-71.
INDEX
433
McGilvary, Rev. Daniel, D.D.,
birth (1828), 20; parentage,
10-20; childhood, 20-28; con-
version, 27-28; lUngham
School. 20-31; teaching, 31-
32 ; Prenbytery of Orange, 32-
34; Priiir('t<»n Si-niinttry
( 1 833-1 85tl ) , .).■> .iH ; pastor-
ate, 38-41; orilinution, 42;
voyage, 43-4S ; Bangkok
(1858-1861), 45-52; marriage
(IHliO), 52; Pechaburl, 63ff;
first ncqiiiiintAnce with the
l.aii, :>'-'tH; iour of explora-
tion to t'hienpiuii. 50-6fi;
charter of the Li'io rniHsion,
66-70; removal to C'hiengmai
(1867), 71 70: pionwr ex-
Kriences, 77-83; ceremony of
un Htia, 84-86; non-pro-
feaaional medicine and siir-
gBry, 8S-91, !)5, 120, 147-148,
158, 100. 106, ,S22, 362;
vi». froiii Dr. Houhp, 92;
Firsv Church organiml, 93;
tirst-fniits, 95-101; thu
gutlirri'ip storm, 102 105; it
breaks (Sop. 18«»). 106;
terrifying,' Rii.spensp, 107, 118-
110; alarm in Hangkok, 111-
113; the martyrw, 114 117;
Siarae«e Royal Commission,
121; a stormy audience and
its results, 122-129; death of
KfiwilOrot, 13.1-135; visit
from Dr. and Mrs. Cushing,
138-1,10; the new rulers, 137-
144; building, 140-142; arri-
val of a missionary physi-
cian, 149; First Tour ('872,
with Dr. Vroonian) — explora-
tion north and east. 150-
159; visit to Lakawn and
Nan, 161-168; first furlough
(1873-187.')). 150 168: Sec-
ond Tour (187i), — explora-
tion northwestward. 170-177;
conversation witli the Prin-
cess, 180-187; shrine on Doi
Sutep, 188-189; flrmer
mese policy — the Resident
High Commissioner, 191-104;
the deaf Prayft, 100 201;
struggle with demonism: —
P4 8*ng Bun, 203-206; Chris-
tian marriage defeated, 207-
209; appeal unto Ciesar, 210-
212; Kdiet of Religious Tol-
eration (187H), 213 220;
teuchern for the (lirls'
School, 221-222; the harvest
of twelve years. 225 ; the nine
years' wanderer, 225-228 ;
voyage to Hongkong, 228-230;
Rah^ng, 230-232; churches
organized, 233; second fur-
lough (1881 1882)— rein-
fiireementa and losses, 236-
243; a surveying expedition
(1884), 244-254; equipment
for touring, 240-251 ; semi-
monthly mail to Maulmein,
255-2.")»l ; death of Princess
Tipa Kesawn, 2.')7 ; Presbytery
of North Laos and the train-
ing of native evangelists,
257-262; station establi.shed
at Lakawn, 263-265; struggle
with demouism renewed —
Bun lYn, 266-270; work
among the villages, 270-274;
Third Tour (1886, with Mr.
Martin ) — Christian commun-
ities in the north, 276-283;
reinforcements, 283-284;
river trip with Mr. Dodd,
285-286 ; Fourth Tour
(1887), 286-287; Fifth Tour
(1888, with Dr. Peoples and
Mr. Dodd): — chureh organ-
ized in Chieng SCn, 289-291;
serious illness, 291 ; mar-
riage of his daughter — the
Prince and the charades, 293;
foothold secured in LarapQn,
294-296; trip to Bangkok,
297; week at Ban Pen, 297-
298; a marvellous recovery,
208 ; the " prisoner of Jesus
Chriat," SOO-SOi} taz-rdbel-
484
INDEX
lion, mi.intl; Dr. MiKonn.
and a oontinirnu* imdiiMl
miasion at lii«t, ;ioti:t(»7;
Sixth Tour ( isim, with Mi"*
McOllv.irv ) : I.uknwn, I'rf.
Nan, 3tw:tl(>; tho loxt (Ic
phant, 311; ChifriK Kawii^'
and tho " TenrhiT's Unitil,"
313-314; (MiiciifT Si'n arid
CliipiiK RAi, 314 315; .>li'
jiliHiit -niiwiiyH, 317-31H;
Huildliist Hnrn'd dii.vi4 to 1>«
olworvnl 1)V ('hri!<tianH, 31H-
319; Sfvinlli i'our (1H!)I,
with Mr. I'hranrr). 320 33(1:
— flrstt nifftmj; uitli (he
MOdOh. 32.2 327; MiVin;; I^'ti,
327-320; Cliionn Srn. 32i»-
330; a thrillin^; cxiMrii'ticcs
3.'»0 331; Cliii'iiK KawiiK iilid
.dP.MiiR Tr.iifj. 332-333;
MusAm liapti/iil. 333-33(1;
Ki^'hlh Ti>ui ( 1^^112. with Dr.
Mc'l\oaii) — amonj; tho Muhi"*
villag"s, 33H-34H ; tragic
Rtruf;^''' "|>iiii"'
famine 34!<-3r)2; Xinth To\ir
(1803, with Mr. Irwin)— tho
Sipsawnp I'ai^na. 3rj3-3tiS;
MOanj: Yawnji, 3.">4-3.">,") ; an
iiniliiiovi-rrd peril. 3.'")H; C'hi-
Knii>.'; ferrv and furd of
the K.'.nR, 3.')0-360;
dysentery and horoio trent-
mrnt, 3(12; Mftan^ Sing, 363-
3(i«; MfH(^s pas* of the Me
K6n»r. '(U-3f.>^; third fur-
louKh ( 1H03-I -04). 370 .•i7(i;
Mr. Arthing- >n "f Ix'ed-i, 3V3-
376; I'l'^shyteiy nd a native
niinislr\ 377 '"^O; Tentli
'l our 'j.-^i ."• V ilh Dr. Urn-
man ) — < 'lif :itr i\ai chosen for
a stntion. l^2-3H4; evanp'l-
ists 8ent toith. 3!M ; Mfisos,
38,5; Elevr.itli Tour ( 1.«''7.
with Dr. Peoples )~thp
" rejiions beyond ": I.nang
ri,i;...r,^. /.-.-■;'".; roiirSesy of
French officials, 388-390, 395,
liils, 400; Mflang Rai, 3M-
.10 1; MrtnnB aT. .394-30."S;
wi'ildinK ffiaiit, 305; Hiirpri«i>
party, 306 .307; Mni.nj* Sinjf,
,30M. 300; Twelfth Tour
( IHIIH) - the c losed <loor, 402-
412: ^^umnlolled to the 1'. S.
Iiy illm ss of Mrs. Meliilvary
( I'Mi.". I . 427 ; (Jolden
Wedding. 427-4;JUj apprecia-
tion l)v Dr. Arthur J. Brown,
D.D., 1-7.
Otiservation.s and eriticisms:
Continuity in mission poliey,
416 417; Cntiverti* with more
than one wife, 231-232; Kx-
rlusion of th, l.ao miHi«ion
from the Lao sjieakinfj peo-
ples of the north. 1^1. .3.32,
36H-360, 404, 411-412; Girls*
Sihtvds ns Chrit^tianizinK
afjencies. 17«, 203, 2H0, 2H4,
2H7, 418 410; Heresy trials,
371-372; Lanmia^e prohlem,
222 22.'}, 420-422; Native
cvantridists and ministers,
2.-)7 262, ,377-380, 414-416;
rarliaiiient of religions, 370-
371; OlH'dient to constitutud
authority and law, 208, 301,
.303. 400. 406; Outlying
Christian eommunities — their
claim on the missionary, 329-
330 ; Rulers — importance of
cultivating their acquaint-
ance, 90, ' 144, 161, 170-171,
3.30.
Religious teachings and con-
versations, 97-98, 161-162,
174-176, 180-188, 199-200,
34 ?-343, 365.
Mcfiilvaiy, Mrs. Sophia Brad-
lev, marriage, 52; wina first
LAO convert, 79, 100; life in
a hamhoo shack, 140; fur-
lougV. after twenty-three
years in Siain. 169-160; river
j.iurney without iscort, 164;
opens fiT^t iMo school, 177;
cole assistant in tbe miBsion,
INDEX
435
198-107i trsatkitM fint (ion
pel into T An, 288, .120; vjHitH
to thi> I . S., ISH, 2'2!t, >:\H.
42rt-427; (i.)l(lcn \V .liiiK.
427- »2K.
Modiciil xMiHniiin, Hiiinniiirv,
4.'2 4L';».
Mi rit making. fi4, m. i:t4, 147.
I HO, 257.
MiM^ioii, Aiiii-ricau Uuptist, of
iiuniia. l.'IH, 143, 264, 368,
:)h:i. 41H.
MuH.t trilH , L-Tfl, 322-327. 334-
336, 338-348.
Neviut, Rav. Dr., 378-379.
OpIuBi, 136, 333, 346-348, 357,
390.
Pmbytery: of Siam, 47, 59, 71 ;
of North Lao!., '_'.i7-2«0, .^77-
380.
PrineMs: Tipa Kf^sawn. "(.-> 00,
lOH-lOfl, 145, 17H, ISO 1S7,
209, 222, 257; the younger,
5.-.. «.1M, 108. 114, US, 119,
l.ltl.
I'rtiitiiij; |)r»'H-i, ami l.rto tna,
224. .120, :i.t.s, :i5.i. ;}H4.
I'ii>,t3 niu\ U'li'ifraplis, 91, 121,
2.'>.'i 2.">tl. 210). .(20.
Hapidt: Mt' iMiig, 71-75i M4
Ki.MK. |.">ll.').'l
Kt'H.'iit nf Si, nil. 1 12. 1.12.
KiiIiImTH illlil 1)1 IJ^.Uhlllf,'!'. Ul,
104. 2:1:1. ■.il'.K :i.VS; i.anilit
chieftain, H4, !I0, 140, 147.
Toluruliun, Edict of, chapter
xiv.
Waifari' piilation, 218,
.15:1 ■'" , l57. ;i0.t.
Uh 170.
Wil.i r. ; <!.MT. 2.").1, .1.39;
cat I ■>.:y.i. ;ii:i; tijjcr- 72,
152, . :til. :i.stl ;)H7.
Wilson. |{('V. .loiiatlian, D.I).,
;io, .iH, 4;(, 51, 05, 07, 92,
!)5, ll;t, 140, 14H, 100, 221,
233, 203, 291, 381, 423, 428.
numCD IK THE ONnXI. -^rAit^i 01 »i^^kJCA
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Near East svo, cisth, net tj.jo.
A companion volume to "A History of Mis'i-^ni In Ib-
dia," \>j this ^reat authority. The progress of M.-t gospel w
traced in Asia Minor, Persia, Arabia, Syria, nnd Egypt.
Non sec' r'.an in spirit, thoroughly comprcbcniivc in scopt.
JOHN P. JONES. P.P.
The Modem AGssionary Challenge
i'al* Ltcturti, igto. lamo, cloth, net $IJ0|.
These lectures, by the author of "Indla'i Problem,
Krisha or Christ?" are a re-survey of the demand of missions
in the light of propress made, in their relation to human
thought. The new difficulties, the new incentives, are con-
sidered by one whose experience in the field and as a writer,
<r* '!e him to cnnsideration.
AldNlO BUNKER, P.P.
Sketches from the Karen Hills
Illustrated, izmo. Cloth, net $i.oo.
lliase descriptive chapters from a missionary's life in
Burma are of exceptional vividness and rich in an appre-
ciation for color. His pen pictures give not only a splendid
insight into n.itive life, missionary work, but have a distinc-
tive literary charm which charMtertiM hit "So« Ih^"
JAMES F. LOVE
The Unique Message and Universal
Mission of Christianity
limo, cloth, net $i.JS.
A volume dealing with the philosophy of mission! at
once penetrating and unusual. It is perhaps one of the most
original and valuable contributions to the mbjcct yet made.
WILLIAM EPWARP GARPNER
Winners of the World During Twenty
Centuries Adapted for Boys and Girls.
A Story and a Study of Missionary Effort from the Time of
Paul to the Present Day. Cloth, net 6oc; paper, net JOO.
Children's Missionary Series
Kusirated in Colors, Cloth, Decoraud, each, net 6oc,
Children of Africa. James B, Baird.
Children of Arabia. John C. Veung.
Children of China. C. Campbsll Brown,
Children of Indim. Janet Harrey Relman. ^
MISSIONARY
The World Missionary Conference
Report of the Ecnmenical Conference held in Edinhureh
in 1910, la Bine volumes, eacli, net 7Sc.; the complete let
oi nine ▼oiume*, net Is oo-
A whole miitioilary library by experts and wrought up to
the via? Uid hour. The Conference has been called a modern
qonncil of Nkea and the report the greatest nuHionary pub-
lication ever made.
Vol. I. Carryins the Gospel. Vol.6. The Home Base.
Vol. 2. The Church in the Vol. 7. Missions and Ga»eri»
Missiun Field. nienl'*.
Vol. 3. Christian Education. Vol. 8. Oi-operntion and
Vol. 4. The Missionary Mes- Unity.
sage. Vol. 9. ilistory, Records and
Vol. Preparation of Mia- Addresses.
sionariea.
Echoes from Edinbui^h, 1910
By W. H. T. GAiRDinit, author of"D. M. Thornton."
\ima, cloth, net soc.
The popular story of the Conference — its preparation— its
nian.igement — its cfltct ami furrcabl of its inlliK-ncf ou the
church at home and the work abroad. An official publication
in no way conflicting with the larger work— which it rather
supplements.
HENRY H. JESSUP'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY
Fifty-three Years in Syria
Introduction by James S. Dennis. Two volumes, illustrated,
8to, cloth, boxed, net $5.00.
"A rich mine of information for the liistori.m, the c'h-
noloiflst and the student of human nature apart from the
labors to which the author devoted his life. A thorouEhly in-
teresting book that will yield endless pickings."— A^. Y, Sun,
R05ERT B. SPEER
Christianity and the Nati<MU
The Dud Lectures for 1910.
8vo, cloth, net $2.00.
Amorg the many notable volumes that have resulted
from the well knov. n DufI foundation Lectureship this new
work embodying the series given by Mr. Robert E. Speer
in Edinburgh, Clasgow and Aberdeen, will rank among the
most important. The peneral theme, "The Reflex Influence
of Missions rp.^n tiio Nations," auggetts a large, imponanlt
and most interesting work.
6. T. R. DAVIS
15c net
An effective report of the recent revivals in Korea told
OB eye witness, who himself participated in the work.
MISSIONS
ROSER T McCllE YNE MA TEER
Character Building in China
The Life Story of Julia Brown Mateer. With In-
troduction by Robert li. Speer. Illustrated, net $1.00.
Robert Fv. Spctr anys: "Mr^. Matrrr heUmnfd to the old
beroic bchciul which did hard lliins;s withmit inakiiiR any fuss,
which achieved the impossihle Ixcausr it wa» mic's liuly to
achieve it. May thia itory <>( her strong, vigorous life be the
■ummona to many young women in our coUegCB and Cborcb
Xo-izy.— From Ihr IntroductioH,
GEORGE F. HERRICK, P.P.
n/tf Yuri Mliilnuirf it tin Amtrltm B—ri In Turiit
Christian and Mohammedan
A Plea for Bridging the Chasm. Illustrated, i2mo,
cloth, net $1.25.
"Dr. Herrick has glTea hit life to miitlonary work
amnng the \fohanimedans. Thia book is the mature expres-
sion of his profound belief that the followers of the Arabian
I'rophet are to be won to Christianity by patiently showing
JiMis riin-t, witli kindly appreciation of the pooil whiii' fully
paiijriliK the deadly evd of their rrlininus system. Opinions
fri.ni leitdmg nnssiijnarirs to Mohaniniedaiis. in all parts of
the world have been brought togtthcr in the book. — Henry
Otis Dwight, LL.D.
EPWARD C. PERKINS, M. P.
A Glimpse of the Heart of China
Illustrated, i6mo, cloth, net 60c.
"A simple, clear story from a physician's point of view
f>f the sieki!' '^s. the unnecessary sufTering, the ignorant and
siiperstiliou- practice of the native physician, constrasted
with the Comfort and healinp that follow in the w.ake of
the skillful treatment of a Christian Chinese 'woman doc-
tor,' lias in it many elements of interest. The reader of
these pages feels that he has truly had a 'glimpse of the
heart of China.' " — Mitsionary Veict,
ANSnCB ABBOTT
The Stolen Bridegroom east inp?"iuvlls
W ith Introduction by George Smith, CLE., Au-
or of ' Thf Conversion of India." Illustrated,
i^nio, cloth, net 75c.
"The author reveals, as only an expert could, the life of
tlie Marathi women of Western India. With delicate touch,
l)ut realistic effect, she .Iraus back the curtain that conceals
the Zenana The Missionary with the native Hible-
woman is seen on her daily round of love and mercy, in
the home, the hospital and the school, winning the weary HM
de^Muring women and widows."— C«0rg« SwntK