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BY AN, EXPERT,
PUBLISHED By
RICHARD K. FOX,
FRANKLIN SQUARE, New York,
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“Ne THE
COCKER'S GUIDE
HOW TO TRAIN, FEED AND
BREED GAME COCKS
FOR THE PIT,
WITH VALUABLE HINTS, RULES AND OTHER
IMPORTANT INFORMATION.
By AN EXPERT.
PUBLISHED BY
RICEZARD FE. i a
FRANKLIN SQuarg, N. Y,
1888,
Ce
INTRODUCTORY.
Owing to the great increase of cock fighting in the United
States and Canada, and the progress made in breeding the game
fowls for the pit, we have compiled this book to aid and assist the
many breeders and cockers, there being no book on training game
fowls now in print.
The book contains all the necessary information in regard to
breeding and preparing game fowls for the pit, and it will be found
a valuable addition to every sporting man’s library, as well as a
monitor for those who make it the custom of arranging mains and
fighting game fowls.
The author has had years of experience in the pit, has owned
some of the best strains that ever fought, while his experience in
feeding and training game fowls has not been limited. The
breeding of game fowls is just as much a science as the breeding
of thoroughbreds. ‘In crossing colors in breeding the following
cases—first, when there are more than six hens to each cock;
second, when the hens aredark with dark legs and the cock light ;
third, when the hens are full grown and the cock not full grown;
also in breeding games from hens with a barn-d»vor cock the
progeny will be. gamer than if breeding from a game cock and
barn-door hen. The fighting qualities are, however, inherited
-more directly from the cock than from the hen. In breeding
game fowls together, which made the best breeders for the pit in
general more careful of their brood cocks than of their brood
hens. In all animals of both sexes those taking the most after
their sires are considered to be the strongest and most spirited.
As arule, breeding from fowls not full grown is a great mistake,
as even if they produce quicker birds (which some say, though
contrary to my experience), they at any rate produce weaker,
smaller and softer birds both in bone and flesh.”
It isa well known fact that every breeder has his own ideas
and no amount of talking could induce him to change it. One of
these is not dubbing his breeding cocks, as they select their finest
stags and keep them undubbed, putting them ona walk alone with
afew hens only. When our stock has bee bred in-and-in too
6 INTRODUCTORY.
long they begin to be slower in their motions, the hens do not lay
as well and also moult later each season and feather more slowly.
In this case they should be crossed with a strong, healthy brood
cock, asall birds from a first cross are more vigorous if the cross
is good, and also best for the pit. Each succeeding cross grows
less vigorous and spirited. By keeping two distinct breeds a first
cross can always be had when wanted. It is said the first laving
hens never breed the best birds, i. e., hens that lay in winter are
not the best to breed from, having exhausted: themselves before
the proper season.
Breeders for the pit generally allow three hens to the stag, and
five to the cock, but we are convinced from our own experience
that the best stock can be bred from asingle cock and two ¢ ood
hens; still it is often the case that two hens will not prove suf-
ficient and others will have to be putin. But asa general thing
we like to breed from two hens if possible.
PHE COCKER'S GUIDE:
A COCK PIT—DIMENSIONS.
A pit should be made with eight corners or circular, sixteen or
eighteen feet in diameter, be from eighteen to twenty-six inches
in height in order to prevent the cock from breaking his heels
while in combat with his opponent.
The sides of the pit should be padded and lined in order to
make it resemble a cushion. Carpet should cover the floor of the
pit, er other suitable material. In the center a scratch should be
made and two other marks drawn twelve inches each way from
the center mark or scratch.
The sides of the pit may be padded with hay, straw or any
soft packing, and any kind of cheap material may be used to
cover the stuffing. Chopped hay or straw is the most useful.
HOW TO HANDLE FOWLS IN THE PIT.
Never pit a fowl that is sick or out of condition.
Every pitter shou'd be thoroughly acquainted with his fowls
before he handles them.
A handler should never allow the jeers or shouts of the specta-
tors tu attract his attention, but give undivided attention to his bird
curing the batile.
In giving either cock the wing great care and gentleness should
be displayed, and tie pitter must not use force enough to throw
his bird off his feet.
It is the handler’s duty to see the game fowl’s weight at once
after the fight.
Handlers should be sure to heel wide hitters more closely than
close hitters.. Great caution must be taken in heeling close hit-
ting fowls, cr else they are liable to cut themselves instead of their
adversary.
& THE COCKER'’S GUIDE.
Trimming fowls and heeling them for the pit “ cutting out ” can
be successfully done by the handler after weighing, and it is very
beneficial, for it gives the cock greater force and activity in the
pit. Cutting out means trimming the neck and hackle feathers
close from his head to his shoulders, and clipping off all the feathers
from the tail close to the rump. After this has been success-
fully done the handlershould take the wings and extend them from
the first feather and clip the rest sloping, leaving sharp points
that in rising he may endanger the eyes of his opponent when
fighting in the pit.
In regard to heeling fowls Dr. Cooper says :. ‘‘ Let your fowl be
held so that the inside of the leg will be perfectly level, then take
your thumb and fore finger and work the back toe of the fowl.
While doing this you will see the leader of the leg rise and fall at
the upper joint. You will setthe right gaft on a line with the out-
side of the leader at the upper joint of the leg, and the left gaft
you will set ona line with the inside of the leader at the upper
joint. Be careful not to set the gaft too far in, as it would cause
the cock to cut himself.”
The spurs should be sawed off when the cocks are put up for
feeding, and should be left with a length sufficient to reach nearly
through the socket of the gaft. Thin paper folded and dampened,
or soft buckskin can be used to fit the spur to the socket of the gaft.
The two methods given above are extensively practiced, and when
followed cannot lead astray. ;
Holding the fowl on either side fit the heel tightly to the stub,
having the point just pass the outside or back of the leg and fasten
it while in that position. Holding on to the leg just heeled, turn
the fowl and proceed to heel the other in the same manner, with
the point occupying a similar position. Fowls, heeled in this
manner will be found to do good cutting in the body and neck, and
frequently will bring down their opponents with either a broken
wing orleg. <A fowl fighting for the head and neck exclusively
requires a much closer heeling, to accomplish which, if the heel is
to be placed on the right leg, set it so that the point will be on a
line with the center of the slight hollow perceptible in the upper
joint of the right leg. The point of the heel on the left leg should
be placed on a line with the outside of the upper joint of the left
leg.
Nearly every old cocker has rules for feeding of his own which
he follows, often producing good results, but our object is to print
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 9
rules which are regarded as standard authority, and if carefully
observed will result in marked success.
The first thing to be provided is a coop of sufficient size and
suitable for a cock to exercise in. Probably two anda half feet
» wide, three feet high and three feet deep, with a roost running
through the middle, would be sufficient, providing there was
plenty of air and light. Put up your cocks in the evening two
weeks before they are to fight, if stags ten days will be sufficient.
For the first three or four days the feed should be mush and
-molasses. If your cocks be very fat mix a little vinegar with the
evening food.
After the third day physic them with one ounce of Epsom
salts to three ounces of butter mixed well together, and at night be
sure that they have no food in their coop. Give each cock a pill
the size of amarble. The next day let them have as much water
as they willdrink. The first feed after giving the physic should
be mush and milk. One tablespoonful to each cock and one feed
of the white of hard boiled eggs chopped fine and mixed with
barley. During the last week do not feed any barley but feed
bread and eggs in the morning and cracked corn and eggs in the
evening. Wash their feet once a day and sponge their head with
rum and vinegar in equal parts.
Before feeding in the morning they should exercise for a
short time, increasing the length of time each morning. To give
them their exercise toss them on acushion ora bag stuffed with
straw, until they become tired. :
If the cock should be very fat give him extra exercise, and im-
mediately after sponge and wipe dry. Then place him in a coop
and donot give him drink until he has become quite cool. If
possible let their drink be spring water and that only to be given
once a day at noon. Two or three swallows are enough. Be
careful to examine each cock before cooping in case there are
any signs of disease about them, and if so, remove at once.
If the cock is very thin in flesh beat up the white of an egg
with a little boiled milk and give him two swallows twice a day.
The utmost care should be taken to keep the ccops clean, and
fresh straw should be used every morning. Frequent use of the
weights is necessary to show the order and condition of the
cocks.
If a cock is extremely eager to drink it shows too much fever.
In this case give a little nitre in water and the fever will be re-
Io THE COCKER SG CIDE.
duced in a short time, this should be repeated until the desire for
crink subsides.
In no case feed a cock unless his crop is empty, extra fat cocks
will require longer exercise and othe1s in proportion. Large fat
cocks can be reduced from eight to eighteen ounces, smaller ones
from three to eight ounces.
Some cocks will need physic twice a week, when taken up,
others only once. This can only be determined by the feeder.
The feeder should be provided with a good pair of scales that can
weigh down as low as half an ounce, and he can only feed intel-
ligently by their frequent use. Fat cocks require long sparring —
or flirting, and when much wearied let them rest. As long as
their appetites are good you need have no fears of over exercise,
but if you should not be able to keep them down in flesh feed
sparingly with barley bread and scalded barley.
If they should become too much reduced and wanting in ap- —
petite let them have such food as they are most fondof. A raw
egg or two will probably restore it. When they are inclined to
drink too much it is a sign of heat and sometimes happensat the
latter partof the keep. Then they should have a little sorrel or
plantain leaf cut and mixed with their iood. Give them aiso milk
and cool spring water with a little fine rectified spirits of nitre in it
to drink which will cool and moderate their heat. This should be
repeated until their thirst or desire for drink subsides. In no in-
stance give a cock water after being heated by sparring cr other- ©
wise.
When’ cocks begin to purge give them new mi‘k well boiled
with barley bread while warm. Their d-ink ought to be warm
toast and spring water.
In giving cocks drink do not let them have more than four dips
at a time, say at eight and eleven o’clock in the morning and three
o’clock in the afternoon; and never feed a cock unless the crop is
empty. Give him drink and exercise and 1t will soon go off.
Reducing the weight of the cock depends entirely on the size
and the order in which they are put up. Large fat cocks should
lose from ten to sixteen ounces. A cock in medium order should
lose from six to ten ounces, smaller ones in proportion. Lean
cocks will lose one or two ounces, but will nearly gain it in feed-
ing, and every cock when fought should rather be in the rise in
weight. lf the weather is warm they srould be trimmed the day
before the fizht, but must be kept warn that night; becarefuland
THE. COCKER’S CUIDE. PBs
do not cut their wings and tails too short. Care should be taken
to keep the cocksclean. Shift the straw at least once in two days
in their conps. Every evening, three days before the fight, wash
the head, legs and feet in urine and in the morning wash them in
water not too cold, and wipe dry. This will heal the bruises
about their heads and the cracks in their toes. Stags ought to be
put the ninth day before they fight, ani ougtt to have but one
sparring and one purge. They are to be treated in other respects
as old cocks. To make sulphur water take a pint of boiling water,
putting in the same half an ounce of sulphur and pouring off as 1t
cools. Toscald barley pour on it very hot water, letting it stand
nof more than ten minutes, after which pour it off and spread the
barley ona table todry. The water that is poured off is served
for their drink which ought to be made fresh every morning. Itis
best weak, a slight taste of the barley being sufficient, otherwise
itis rather heating.
In mixing milk and water for their drink be careful not to put
more than one-fourth skimmed milk to three-fourths spring water.
A greater proportion of milk is not so cooling.
The different sorts of bread for feed, such as oat, barley or corn
meal, must be heated and should be baked the day before they
are used. They are made inthe following manner: Take equal
measures of the white of eggs and milk, beat well together, then
add as much meal as will make up for bread which must be weil
worked up together and bake, care being used to prevent, the
crust from burning. Under nocircumstances should sour milk be
used for it will cause them to purge, which is very hurtful.
When raw beef is recommended, if it should be found to purge,
discontinue its use.
The following is also another very good way:
The fowl is supposed to come from his walk in good condition
in which case he will be too fat for fighting and will have no wind
until he is reduced. Tv effect this, medicine and abstinence from
food are required for seven or eight days before he can be brought
to the hit. Elis tail and spurs should be cut short and he is placed
in his coop and the first day receives no food, the second day he
should have his physic consisting of cream of tartar or jalap, or
both united in a dose of about five grains each. Ifit be a very
large and fat cock the dose may be increased to ten grains of
cream of tartar. ‘ihese are given him mixed in fresh butter.
This generally purges briskly and scours out the intestines.
I2 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
Immediately after the physic is given and before it effects him,
he is placed on loose straw or a grass plot with another cock and
allowed to spar with him, the boots or muffles having been pre-
viously tied on their short spurs. In this way he may be exercised
until he is a little weary. He is then returned to his pen. Before
putting him up it is necessary to examine his mouth to see if he
has been picked or wounded in the inside, as such wound is apt
to canker, To frevent thisit is washed with a little vinegar and
brandy. He is now allowed his warm nest to work off his physic.
This is a diet made of warm ale or sweetwort with bread in it, also
a little sugar candy, or bread and milk and sugar candy about as
large asa teacup full. He is then shut up close until the next
morning or about twenty-four hours. If the weather is warm he
may be clipped out for fighting, but if the weather is cold the
room should be made warm or a blanket placed over his pen.
The room should be kept dark except at feeding. Early on the
the third morning his pen must be cleaned out from the effects of
the physic, etc., and clean dry straw putin thesame. Thisshould
be done every day. His feet should be washed and dried clean
before he is returned to his pen.
If his feet feel cold his pen should be made warmer.
He is next to be allowed some bread, a sort of bread made of
ingredients in the following proportion. About three pounds of
fine flour, two eggs, four whites of eggs and alittle yeast. This
kneaded with a sufficiency of water for a proper consistency and
well baked. Some add a small number of annis seed ora little
cinnamon.
Of this bread as muchas would fill a tea cup cut into pieces,
is given him twice a day. No water is allowed him at this stage
as it is considered highly injurious.
On the fourth day, early in the morning he should have a tea
cup of good barley and a little water in which a toast has been
steeped for some time.
Having eaten this, clean his pen, etc., and let it be uncovered
for about an hour, while he scratches and picks the straw. Some
think it is highly advantageous to prepare the barley for them by
bruising it, thus taking away the sharp points of the barley and
the husky shell or covering, which is blown away, In the after-
noon the same quantity of barley may be repeated, but no water.
On the fifth day he may have the bread as before but only three
portions of it, and no water,
|
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 13
On the sixth, or weighing day, very early in the morning, give
him the breadas before. He is then to be weighed and afterwards
a good feed of barley and water should be given him. Some hold
it a valuable secret to give them flesh, such as sheep’s heart for this
and the succeeding day, chopped small and mixed with the other
food.
On the seventh day, or day before fighting, early in the morn.
ing let him have the same feed of barley. In the afternoon bread
and the white of an egg boiled hard and a little water.
On the eighth, or day of fighting, he may have a little barley,
about forty grains.
=
IMPORTANT HINTS TO BREEDERS,
1. Fanciers must not select their cocks from one yard and hens
from another if they expect to raise reliable fowl for the pit. .
2. Breeders must never allow their old and well tried stock to
run out. Never breed from game you know nothing about.
3. Breeders when raising game for the p t should give special
attention and procure cocks and hens of good size with large bone
and muscle. |
4. A game cock, especially one to be used for breeding pur-
poses, should set well on his legs, be broad at the shouifen. have
strong wings and tough, wiry feathers.
5. Game fowl must not be confined to one kind of food:
6. Water must be supplied game fowl twice a day and care
must be taken not to supply them with too much food.
7- Great care should be displayed in selecting the game to
breed for the pit. Do not be led astray by color but look for
strength and endurance with all the necessary fighting qualities.
8. The best cock to breed from to battle in the pit is a well-
tested cock of a reliable breed, a good striker and biller, a savage
and determined fighter.
g. In breeding for the pit, the rule is three hens to a stag and
five hens to a cock.
to: Burn out every nest box before and after using. The
charred surface will not favor the lodgment of vermin. Fill each
nest bottom with freshly cut sod slightly hollowed towards the cen-
ter, covering with fine straw.
I4 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. ~
11, Always sprinkle nest and hen with carbolic powder. Don’t
use too much sulphur; in fact if carbolic powder is obtainable
don’t use it at all. Let your hen get accustomed to the nest be-
fore trusting her with the eggs; then give the eggs to her, quietly
inserting them under her rather than giving her to the eggs.
12. Ten days before a cock is taken from his walk if he does
not show any sign of disease he should be given six grains of
cream of tartar and six grains of rhubarb made into pills with un-
salted butter or lard.
13. He should then be exercised, whenhe may be given a warm
mash of bread steeped in sweetened water or boiled rice and
milk.
14. After twenty-four hours have elapsed he can be turned
out.
15. During the next ten days he must be fed on grain such as
he has been accustomed to.
16. He can also be fed some fine chopped raw beHt which is
very beneficial if it agrees with him.
17. Having been prepared as above suggested, the cock will
now be taken up preparatory to being fed and drilled for the pit.
Cut off his spurs, which should be done with a small saw made for
that purpose, leaving about half an inch.
18. The cock should then be exercised or ‘‘ flirted’ until he is
tired, then receive a dose of sulphur water lukewarm.
19. In the evening physic as before directed, spar him, then
give him a mash of barley or oat bread and milk to work off the
physic.
20. At twelve o’clock noon, feed boiled rice and milk, late in
the evening flirt him, then give warm sulphur water.
21. Clean out your coop weil, then wash your cock’s mouth,
legs and feet, wipe dry and put him back in the coop.
22. His first feed should be barley or oat meal bread moistened |
with skimmed mik or water. Give him three feeds of this, and his :
drink should be barley water three times that day. Flirt him.
23. Feed oat bread and scalded barley mixed; at twelve o’clock
oat bread and the white of a hard boiled: egg ; tite’ in the evening
exercise by flirting, feed with scalded barley and corn bread.
Give him free-stone water three times for drink.
24. Feed corn bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in
the morning, oat bread and the white of a hard boiled egg at twelve
o’clock, flirt him in the evening for. exercise, feed oat bread and
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. r3
scalded barley; give barley water cool three times and let him
roost at night.
25. Feed oat bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in
the morning; at twelve o’clock feed with corn bread and the
white of a hard boiled egg.
26. Exercise him in the evening by flirting, and feed him oat
bread and scalded barley. His drink should be spring water and
milk. Let him roost at night.
27. Feed corn bread and scalded barley mixed, in the morning ;
at twelve o’clock feed on oat bread and the white of a hard boiled
egg. Inthe evening flirt him for exercise, and feed corn bread
and scalded barley mixed. His drink should be barley water
three times. Let him roost at night.
28. When the cocks are on the pit, the judges are to examine
whether they answer the description taken in the match bill, and
whether they are fairly trimmed and have on fair heels. If all be
right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart
(or thereabouts) and retire a step or two back; butif a wrong
cock should be produced, the party so offending forfeits that
battle. :
29. All heels that are round from the socket to the point are al-
lowed to be fair; any pitter bringing a cock on the pit with any
other kind of heels, except by particular agreement, forfeits the
battle
30. Ifeither cock should be trimmed with a close, unfair hackle,
the judge shall direct the other to be cut in the same manner ; and
at that time shall observe to the pitter that if he brings another
cock in the like situation, uuless he shall have been previously
trimmed, he shall forfeit the battle.
31. A pitter, when he delivers his cock, shall retire two paces
back, and not advance or walk round his cock, until a blow is
passed.
32..Aninterval of ten minutes shall be allowed between the
termination of one battle and the commencement of another.
33. No pitter shall pulla feather out of a cock’s mouth, nor from
over his eyes or head, or pluck him by the breast, to make him
fight, or pinch him for the like purpose, under penalty of forfeit-
ing the battle.
34. The pitters are to give their cocks room to fight, and are
not to hover or press on them, so as to retard them from striking.
35. Greasing, peppering, muffing and soaping a cock, or any
7 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
other external application, are unfair practices, and by no means
admissible in this amusement.
36. The judge, when required, may suffer a pitter to call in a
few of his friends to assist in catching his cock, who are to retire
immediately as soon as the cock is caught, and in no other instance
is the judge to suffer the pit to be broken.
37. All cocks on their backs are to be immediately turned over
on their bellies, by their respective pitters, at all times. A cock,
when down, is to have a wing given to him, if he needs it, unless
his adversary is on it, but his pitter is to place the wing gently in
its proper position, and not to lift the cock, and no wing is to be
given unless absolutely necessary.
38. If either cock should be hanged in himself, in the pit or
canvas, he is to be loosed by his pitter, but if in his adversary,
both pitters are immediately to lay hold of their respective cocks,
and the pitter whose cock is hung shall hold him steadily whilst
the adverse party draws out the heel, and then they shall take their
cocks asunder a sufficient distance for them fairly to renew the
combat.
39. Should the cocks separate, and the judge be unable to de-
cide which fought last, he shall, at his discretion, direct the pitters
to carry their cocks to the middle of the pit, and deliver them beak
to beak, unless either of them is blind, in which case they are to
be shouldered; that is, delivered with their breasts touching, each
pitter taking care to deliver his cock at this, as well as at all other
times, with one hand.
40. When both cocks. cease fighting, it is then in the power of
the pitter of the last fighting cock, unless they touch each other, to
demand a count of the judge, who shall count 40 deliberately,
which, when counted out, is not to be counted again during the
battle.
41. Then the pitters shall catch their cocks, and carry them to )
the middle of the pit, and deliver them beak to beak, but to be |
shouldered if either of them is blind, as before. Then, if either :
cock refuses or neglects to fight, the judge shall count ten, and |
shall call out ‘‘ once refused,” and shall direct the pitters to bring
their cocks again to the middle of the pit, and put to as before ;
and if the same cock in like manner refuses, shall count ten
again and call out ‘‘ twice refused,” and so proceed until one cock |
thus refuses six times successively. The judge shall then deter-
mine the battle against such cock.
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. Ee
42. If either cock die before the judge can finish the counting
of the law, the battle is to be given to the living cock, and if both
die, the longest liver wins the battle.
43. Thepitters are not to touch theircocks whilst the judge is in
the act of counting.
44. No pitter is ever to lay hold of his adversary’s cock unless
to draw out the heel, and then he must take him below the knee.
Then there shall be no second delivery : that is, after he is once
delivered, he shall not be touched until a blow is struck, unless
ordered by the judge.
45. No pitter shall touch his cock, unless at the times mentioned
in the foregoing rules.
46. If any pitter acts contrary to these rules, the judge, if called
on at the time, shall give the battle against him.
°
WESTERN NEW YORK RULES.
RuLE 1.—The pit shall be at least twelve feet in diameter and
ten inches in height. A chalk mark in the center and two outer
marks eighteen inches from the center.
RULE 2.—The handlers shall choose a judge todecide all matters
in dispute during the match. In all cases of appeal the fighting
ceases until the judge gives his decision which shall be final. If
any dispute arises between the pitters the cocks are not to be taken
-from the pit nor the spurs taken off untilit is decided by the
judge.
RULE 3.—Cocks whose difference in weight is only two ounces
are a match, except blinkers, when three to five ounces difference
in their weight should be allowed.
RULE 4.—The spurs shall be one and a quarter inches in length,
round head, tapering from socket to point. They are to be changed
every fight. :
RULE 5.—The pitters shall deliver their cocks fair on their feet
on the outer mark, excepting the first scoring, which should be at
least four feet from the center score.
RULE 6.—When one cock has refused to fight the pitter of the
fighting cock shall count ten, clear and distinct, and appeal to the
18 THE COCKER’S GUIDE,
judge fora count. I£ allowed he will count five tens naming and
scoring each ten at the outer score. At the fifth ten the cocks
will breast at the center and the pitter of the one who has the count
shall count twenty and win the fight.
RuLE 7.—If during a count both cocks refuse to fight, the pitter
of the cock fighting last shall be entitled to the count. The judge
snall decide who is entitled to the count if both pitters claim the
count.
RULE 8.—If a cock fights last he wins the fight even should he
die before the count is out. A cock picking is a fighting cock ex-
cepting on the fifth ten being uttered when he must be a breaking
cock to break the count. A fighting cock does not break his own
count.
RULE g.—A pitter is not allowed to handle his own cock after he
has been delivered without counting ten clear and distinct and one
cock refusing to fight. The judge shall overlook a small error and
to the best of his knowledge let the best cock win.
RULE 10.—Any pitter guilty of squeezing his bird or shoving
him across the score, or taking feathers from or sucking or wiping
his beak shall be deemed foul handling, and if claimed he shall
lose the fight.
RULE 11.—The birds shall be weighed before leaving the pit
and before or after the fight as agreed upon. If the winner is
heavier than the match list provides he loses. Two ounces over
check weight is a match.
RULE 12.—The pound age shall be twenty to one. The pitter
of the cock pourding shall count twenty twice, at the end of which
he shall say: ‘*Who takes” three times. The money shall be put
in the pit.. If not taken he wins; if taken he shall count five
times as usual. A cock can be pounded five times. If taken once
he can be pounded again. The odds and taken money to be
handed to the judge by one of the pitters.
RULE 13.—A cock pounded, if he in turn has recovered, can
pound the cock that the odds were first on.
RULE 14.—The birds shall if hackled be sure to have no foul
hackle.
RuLE 15.—A cock on his back can be turned aver by his handler,
but not on his side. The handler can only handle his bird with.
out asking the judge when he is fast in himself or in the pit. The
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. I9
judge should say quickly when they are fast in each other, the
word, ‘‘ Handle.” ‘
RULE 16.—The judge's decision in all cases is to be final.
RULE i7.—A cock running away cannot win. If both run they
shall be tried by a fresh cock. If one fights and the other does
not, the fighting cock wins. If both refuse, the fight shall be de-
clared a draw.
RULE 18.—Any violation of the above rules loses the fight.
NEW ORLEANS (LA.) RULES.
RULE 1.—All birds shall be weighed; give or take two ounces
shall be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so.
RULE 2.— All heels to be fought with shall be round from socket
to a point or as nearly so as possible.
RULE 3.—When a stag is matched against a cock the stag will
be entitled to four ounces advance in wcight.
RULE 4.—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling
blood or any other thing to help the bird between handlings.
RULE 5.—It shall be foul for Aor B to touch their birds while
fizhting unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfor-
tunately fasten himself with his own heel, it shall be fair to handle,
_ but on no other consideration ; and either handler violating or de-
viating from the above rule shall lose his fight.
RULE 6.—Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and
every round.
RULE 7.—In counting, the bird showing fight last is entitled
to the count, but if his handler refuses to take the count the op- |
posite handler shall be entitled to it.
Rue 8. —The handler having the count shall pit his bird in his —
respective place when time is called and count ten and handle
three more successive times. When time is called again the birds
shall be placed in the centre of the pit breast to breast and forty
more counted, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight,
the one having it shall be declared the winner.
20 THE: COCKER'S, GUIDE:
RULE 9.—A peck or blow at his opponent’s bird and not at his
handler will be considered fighting.
RULE 10.—When time is called the handlers must let go their
birds from their respective places fair and square; it shall be foul
for either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent’s,
and either one violating this rule shall lose the fight.
RULE 11.—Each party shall choose a judge and the judges
choose a disinterested party as a referee. No referee will be com-
petent who has bet on either side, or is otherwise interested.
RULE 12.—lt shall be the duty of the judges and referee to
watch all movements of the fight and judge according to the above
rules. The referee will be confined to the opinions of the judges
only and his decision is final.
Rv gE 13.—It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time be-
tween the rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-
five seconds, then he must call time at thirty seconds when the
handlers must be prompt in pitting their birds, and if either
handler refuse to do so, he shall lose his fight.
DETROIT (MICH.) RULES.
RULE 1.—All birds shall be weighed; give or take two ounces
shall be a match.
RULE 2.—When a stag is matched against a cock the stag shall
be allowed five ounces the advantage.
RULE 3.—All birds shall be cut out and deprived of their hackle
or glossy feathers.
RULE 4.—Gafts, spurs or heels must be round from socket to
point.
RULE 5.—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling
blood.
RULE 6.—It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while
fighting unless one is fast to the other. But if a cock should
unfortunately fasten himself with his own heels it shall be fair to
handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating
or deviating from the above rule shall lose his fight.
TEE COCKER SG CIDE: ai
RULE 7.—The longest liver, when both cocks are mortally
wounded, shall be declared the winner.
RULE 8. —Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and
every round.
RULE 9.—In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en-
titled to the count, but if the handler does not take the count the
opposite party shall be entitled to take it.
RULE i0.—The handler having the count shall count ten and
pit his bird in his respective place, and count ten again, and soon
until he has counted forty, then the birds must be piled breast to
breast, and he must count forty, and the battle is over unless the
opposite bird shows fight by making a peck, which breaks the
count, and the fight proceeds.
RULE 11.—When time is called the handlers must let go their
birds from their respective places fair and, square, for it shall be
foul for either handler to toss or pitch his bird upon his oppo.
nent’s, and either violating the above rule shall lose the fight.
RULE 12.—Each party shall choose a judge, and the judge shal]
choose a disinterested person, who shall be styled the referee. No
person shall be considered competent to act as referee if it be
known that he has bet one cent, more or less, on the match or
matches. :
RULE 13.—It shall’be the duty of the judges to watch the mo.
tions of the handlers, and, if anything foul occurs, they must ap.
peal to the referee, and his decision must be final; however, it
will be the duty of the referee to notice all complaints from the
judges only, and, after due consideration, his decision must be
given in striet accordance with the above rules.
RULE 14.—It shall be the duty of the referee to call time be-
tween the rounds, and at the call of time the handlers must be
prompt, and if either handler refuses to obey he shall lose his
fight, e
22 THE «COCKER SG CIDE.
NEW YORK RULES.
RULE 1.—The pit shall be circular in shape, at least eighteen
feet in diameter and not less than sixteen inches in height. The
floor sha.l be covered with carpet or some other suitable material.
There shall be a chalk or some other mark made as near to the
center of the pit as possible. There shell also be two outer marks
which shall be one foot each way from the centre mark.
RULE 2.—The pitter shall select one judge who shall choose a
referee. Said judge shall decide all matters in dispute during the
pendency of the fight, but in case of their inability to agree, then
it shall be the duty of the referee to decide and his decision shall
be final.
RULE 3.—Chickens shall take their age from the first day of
March and shall be chickens during the fighting season.
RULE 4.—It shall be deemed foul for any of the respective
pitters to pit a cock or chicken with what is termed a foul hackle,
that is, any of the feathers left whole on the mane or neck.
RULE 5.—The pitter shall let each cock bill each other three or
more times, but this is not.to be construed that the pitter of a cock
has aright to bill with his opponent's cock for the purpose of
faticuing him.
RuLe 6.—No person shall be permitted to handle his fowl after
he is fairly delivered inthe pit un'ess he counts ten clear and dis-
tinct, without either cock making fight, or shall be fast in his ad-
versary, or fast in the carpet, or hung in the web of the p‘t or in
himself. ;
Rue 7.—Any cock that may get on his back shall be righted
again by the pitier, but not taken off the ground he is lying on.
RULE 8.—Whenever a cock is fast in his adversary the pitter of
the cock the spurs are fast in shall draw them out, but the pitter
of the cock has no right to draw out his own spurs except when
fast in himself or in the carpet, or in the web of the pit.
RULE 9 —When either pitter has counted ten tens successively
without the cock refusing fight, or making fight, or on the two |
cocks being again breasted fair on their feet, beak to beak on the
centre score or mark, the cock refusing to fight shall be declared
the loser on ten being counted. The pitters are bound to tell each
ten as they count them, as follows: Once, twice, etc.
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. 23
RULE I0—No pitter after the cocks have been declared in the
pit shall be permitted to clean their beaks or eyes by blowing or
otherwise, or be permitted to squeeze his fowl or press him against
the floor during the pendency of the fight.
RULE 11,—When a cock is pounded and no person takes it until
the pitter counts twenty, and then counts nineteen or twenty and
calls three times, ‘‘ who takes it,” and no person takes it, it is a
battle to the cock the odds are on; but the pitter of the pounded
cock has the right to have the pound put up that is $20 against $1.
If this is not complied with the pitter shall go on as though there
was no poundage.
RULE 12.—If acock is pounded and the poundage is taken, and
if the cock the odds are paid against should get upand knock down
his adversary, then if the other cock is pounded and the other
poundage not taken before the pitter counts twenty twice, and
calls out, ‘‘ Who takes it,” three times, he wins, although there was
a poundage before.
RULE 13.—It shall be the duty of the respective pitters to de-
liver their cock fair on its feet on the outer score or mark facing
each other, and in a standing position, except on the fifth ten being
told when they, the two cocks, shall be placed on the centre score,
breast to breast and beak to beak in like manner. Any pitter
being guilty of shoving his foot across the score, or of pinching or
using any other unfair means for the purpose of making his cock
fight, shall lose the fight.
RULE 14.—If both cocks fight together, and then both should
refuse until they are counted out, in such cases a fresh cock is to
be hoveled and brought into the pit, and the pitters are to toss for
which cock is to set to first. He that wins has the choice. _ Then
the one which is to set to last is to be taken up but not carried out
of the pit. The hoveled cock is then to be put down to the other
and a lowed to fight while the judges, or one of them, shall count
twenty. The same operation shall be gone through with the other
cock and if one fight and the other refuse, it is a battle to the
fighting cock, but if both fight, or both refuse, it is a drawn battle.
N. B.—This rule is rarely carried into effect, but any pitter can
exact it if he think proper to do so.
RuLe 15.—If both cocks refuse fighting until four, five or more
or less tens are counted, the pitter shall continue their count until
one cock has refused ten times, for, when a pitter begins to count
he counts for both cocks.
eg THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
RULE 16.—If a cock should die before he is counted out he
wins the battle if he fights last. This, however, is not to apply
when his adversary is running away.
RULE 17.—The crowing or raising of the hackle of acock is
not fight, nor is fighting at the pitter’s hands.
RULE 18.—A breaking cock isa fighting cock, but a cock breaking
from his adversary is not fight. F
RULE I9.—-If any dispute arises among the pitters on_ the re-
sult of a fight the cocks are not to be taken out of the fight, nor the
gaffs taken off until a decision has been made by the judges or
referee.
RULE 20.—Each cock within two ounces of each other shall be
a match except blinkers, when they are fighting against two eyed
cocks. An allowance from three to five ounces shall be made
when blinkers are matched against each other. The same rule to
apply in reference to two-eyed cocks.
RULE 21.—All matches must be fought with heels, round from
the socket to the point, not exceeding one and a quarter inches in
length unless otherwise agreed upon. Drop Sockets, Cutters,
Slashers and twisted heels shall be considered foul.
RULE 22.—Previous to heeling the cocks in fighting mains the
. four spurs of same pattern and size shall be placed together and
the pitter shall tuss for choice of them.
RULE 23.—In all mains at the end of each battle the judges
shall order the spurs to be changed, i. e., the spurs of the win-
ning cock must be placed on the loser’s next fowl and changed at
the end of every battle.
RULE 24.—Any person fighting a cock heavier than he is rep-
resented on the match list shall lose the fight, although he may
have won.
RULE 25.—In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases until the
judges or the referee give their decision, which shall be final and
strictly to the question before them.
RULE 26.—When a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless
by consent of both parties, all outside bets to go according to the
main bet.
RULE 27.—Each pitter when delivering his cock on the score
shall take his hands off him as quickly as possible.
RULE 28.—Any person violating any of the above rules shall
be deemed to have lost the match.
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 25
ALBANY (N. Y.) RULES.
RULE 1.—Each and every cock to be weighed before fighting.
Any cock exceeding the weight named, forfeits the match, two
ounces always being given or taken.
RULE 2 —Cocks to be shown with long hackle, with fair inch and
a quarter round, low socket heels.
RULE 3 —The crowing of a cock or throwing up the hackle in
the hands of the handler does not denote fight.
RULE 4.— The cocks must be picked and brought to the station
and delivered.
RULE 5.—Cocks shall not be handled while fighting.
RULE 6.—The last cock showing fight is entitled to the count,
which is five times ten, counted out loud, when the two cocks are
breasted.
RULE 7.—If either cock refuses fight after the count of ten five
times in succession, on being breasted the one that had the count
counts thirty and then twenty, when the other cock is counted out.
RuLE 8.—When a cock is pounded and not taken, the pitter
counts twenty, then asks ‘‘ who takes it?” three times and that
wins.
RULE 9.—If one cock is standing on another, neither cock is to
be touched while their feathers are touching. When free if onecock
is on his back or if his wing is away from him the handler can put
his wing under him, but not to put him on his feet,
RULE 10,—The referee’s decision is to be final in all cases,
(SESE SG fe
SYRACUSE (N. ¥.) RULES,
RuLeE 1.—The pit shall be at least twelve feet square with a
board two feet six inches long across each corner and eighteen
inches high; the bottom covered with sawdust, tanbark or carpet
as shall be agreed upon. There shall be a line drawn across the
center and also one 12 inches each way from the center line,
26 THE .COCKER’S -G.UIDE.
RULE 2.—Each pitter shall choose an umpire, the umpires in
turn choosing a referee, whose aecision, when the umpires cannot
agree, shall be final.
RuLE 3.—After the first handling the cocks shall be delivered on
the outer Jines square on their feet.
Rue 4.—A fair inch anda quarter round heel must be used
unless otherwise agreed upon.
RuLE 5 —Chickens shall take their age from the first day of
March and shall be chickens during the following fighting season,
that is for the following fifteen months.
RULE 6.—The hackle may be cut off or not as the parties shall
agree upon.
RULE 7.—The pitter shall not handle his cock after being de-
livered in the pit without counting ten and his adversary’s cock re-
fusing to fight, except that he is fast in the pit, in himself or in the
other cock.
RuLt 8.—A cock on his back may be turned on his side, or if
his wing is out it can be placed under him without putting him on
his feet.
RULE 9.—No pitter shall draw his own heel when it is fast in
the other cock.
RULE 10.—In billing the cocks before the fight, if one cock re-
fuses and the other shows fight, the one showing shall win the
maich.
RULE 11.—The pitter who has the count shall count ten five
times, naming each ten as once, twice and so on, and shall handle.
After each ten and after the fifth ten the cocks shall be fairly
breasted. He is then to count thirty and breast them, twenty and
out.
RULE 12.--When a cock is pounded and no one takes it, the
pitter of the cock tie odds are on shall count twenty and say * Who
takes it?” three times and win. If the poundage is taken the
pitter shall count as if there was no poundage. The poundage
shall be twenty dollars to one, to be thrown into the pit or put up
in the referee's hands, the pitter to be satisfied that the money is
up If this is not done the pitter is tp count as if there was no
poundage.
RULE 13.—The pitter of the cock making fight last to have the
count.
THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
Q\>
7
RuLE 14.—Ii a cock is pounded and the poundage is taken, and
the cock the odds are against shall knock down the uther cock, and
the other cock is pounded, and if the pitter of the cock pounded
last shall count twe1:ty, say ‘‘Who takes?” three times before the
poundage is taken, he shall win the fight.
RULE 15.—After the cock has been delivered the pitter shall
not clean his cock’s beak or eyes, nor squeeze nor press him
against the ground.
* RULE 16. —The cock having the count wins the fight if he dies
before the count is out. A cock breaking to get away is nota
fighting cock.
RULE 17.—Neither cock to be taken from the pit or the heels
taken off without the referee’s consent.
RuLE 18.—A man fighting a cock heavier than represented in
the marked list, shall lose the fight, although he wins. The cocks
to be weighed before leaving the pit. If both cocks are over
weight it is a draw.
RULE 19.--In case of appeal the fighting shall cease until the
decision is given.
RULE 20.—All bets to follow the referee’s decision.
RULE 21.—Any violation of the above rules loses the match.
BOSTON (MASS.) RULES.
RULE 1.—All fowls brought to the pit must be weighed and
marked down for those to see who have fowls to fight.
RULE 2.—Fowls within two ounces are a match.
RULE 3.—A stag is allowed four ounces when he fights against
a cock.
RuLE 4.—A blinker is allowed four ounces when he fights
against a sound fowl.
RULE 5.—Fowls being ready may be brought to the pit.
RuLe 6 —Each man takes his station and sets his fowl to the
rig it or left as he pleases. He may remain there till the fowls are
in one another, or in the tan, or one or both is on his back.
28 THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
RuLE 7.—The handler shall not assist his fowl from where he
stations him. If he does he forfeits the battle. .
RuLE 8.—In no case shall the fowls be handled, unless they
are in one another, or can count ten between fighting.
RULE 9.—The fowls in hand, each man to his station, and on
either counting ten the fowls must be set or the delinquent loses
the match.
RULE 10.—The fowls being set, if either refuses to show fight
the last that showed has the couut, which is five times ten when
the two cocks are breasted.
RULE 11.—The fowls are breasted at every five times ten.
RULE 12,—When the two fowls are brought to the breast, the
one that had the count, counts five times ten more and then twenty ;
then he claims the battle which is his.
RULE 13.—In case the fowls show fight while counting, it des-
troys the count and the count is commenced again.
RULE 14.—In case a fowl is on his back his handler can turn
him over.
RULE 15.—In all cases the parties can select judges from the
company present.
RULE 16.—In no case shall any person talk with the handlers
while the fowls are fighting.
RULE 17.—All weighing will be left to a man selected for the
purpose.
RULE 18.—All matches will be fought with round heels unless
otherwise agreed upon.
RULE 19.—A man known to use any but round heels, unless
agreed upon, forfeits the battle.
RULE 20.—All cutters, slashers and twisted heels, are barred
from the pit.
RULE 21.—In all cases the last fowl that shows fight has the
count.
RULE 22.—All fowls brought to the pit that do not show fight
do not lose the battle, unless otherwise agreed upon,
THE COCRERS GUIDE. 36
BALTIMORE (MD.) RULES.
RULE 1.—All birds shall be weighed. Give or take two ounces
shall be a match or otherwise, if parties see fit to make it so.
RULE 2.—When a stag jis matched against a cock the stag will
be entitled to four ounces advance in weight. Blinkers are al-
lowed four ounces when fighting against two-eyed cocks.
RULE 3.—The handlers shall each choose one judge who shall
choose a referee. Said judges shall decide all matters in dispute
during the pendency of the fight, but in case of their inability to
agree, then it shall be the duty of the referee to decide, and his
decision shall be final.
RULE 4.—Thirty seconds ocr a count of fifteen by the judge (or
referee as the handlers may agree) shall be allowed between each
and every round.
RULE 5.—It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time be-
tween the rounds, and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-five
seconds. On time being called at thirty seconds, the handlers
must be prompt in piiting their cocks, and if either handler refuse
to do so, he shall lose the fight.
RuLE 6,—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling
blood or any other thing to help the bird between handlings.
RULE 7.—It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while
. fighting, unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should un-
fortunately fasten himself with his own heel, it shall be fair to
handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating
or deviating from the above rules shall lose the fight.
Rue 8.—In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en-
titled to the count.
RULE 9.—The handlers shall pit their birds in their respective
places when time is called, and the handler having the count,
shall count ten, then handle two more successive times and count
ten each time. When time is called again the birds shall be
placed in the centre of the pit, breast to breast and beak to beak,
and twenty more counted ; and if the bird not having the count
refuse to fight, the one having it shall be declared the winner.
RuLE 10—It shall be the duty of the respective handlers to de-
30 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
liver their birds fair on their feet at each pitting on the mark or
score, facing each other and in a standing position.
RULE 11.—A peck or blow at the opponent’s head and not at
his handler will be considered fighting.
RULE 12.— When time is cailed the handlers must let go their
birds from their respective places fair and square, for it shall be
foul for either handler to pitch or-toss his bird upon his opponent’s,
and either one violating the above rule, shail lose his fight.
RULE 13.—If both birds fight together, and then if both refuse
they are to be pitted at the outer score twice and then breasted on
the centre score breast to breast and beak to beak in a standing
position. In this case the birds are to lay in the pit thirty seconds
at each pitting and at the last pitting if both should refuse, it isa
drawn battle.
RULE 14.—In the case of a bird that dies, if he fights last and his
handler has the count, he wins the battle.
RULE 15.—Whenever a bird is fast in his adversary the handler
of the bird the spurs are fast in shall draw them out, but the
handler of a bird has no right to draw out his own spur except
when fast in himself or in the floor or in the web of the pit.
RULE 16,—Greasing, peppering or soaping, or any other exter-
nal applications made toa cock, are unfair practices and by no
means admissible in this amusement.
Ru LE 17.—The handlers are to give the birds room to fight and
not to hover and press on them so as to retard their striking.
Rute 18.—Any person fighting a bird heavier than he is repre-
sented to be on the match list, shall lose the fight, although he may
have won.
RULE 19.—In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases until the judges
or the referee give their decision, which shall be final and strictly
to the question before them.
RULE 20.—Each handler when delivering his bird on the score
shall take his hands off him as quickly as possible.
’ RULE 21.—No handler shall touch the bird except at the times
mentioned in the foregoing rules,
RULE 22.—If any dispute arises between the handlers on the
result of the fight, the birds are not to be taken out of the pit, nor
the gaffs taken of until it is decided by the judges or referee.
RULE 23.—It shall be the duty of the judges and referees to
THE -COCKER'S GULDE:; gt
watch all movements of the fight and judge according to the above
rules.
RULE 24.—Whien a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless
by consent of both parties. All outside bets te go according to the
main bet.
RULE 25.— Any person violating any of the above rules shal!
be deemed to have lost the match.
°
VIRGINIA OR SOUTHERN RULES.
RULE 1.—On the morning the main is to commence the parties
decide by lot who shows first. It is to be remembered that the
party obtaining choice generally chooses to weigh first, and con-
sequently obliges the adverse party to show first, as the party
showing first weighs last. When the show is made by the party
the door of the cock house is to be locked and the key given to
the other party, who immediately repairs to his cock house and
prepares for weighing. There ought to be provided a pair of good
scales and weights as low down as half an ounce. One or two
judges to be appointed to weigh the cocks. [ach party by weigh-
ing the cocks intended for the show a day or two beforehand and
having all their respective weights, would greatly facilitate the
business of the judges. There ought to be no feathers cut or
plucked from the cocks before they are brought to the scale, ex-
cept a few from behind to keep them clean, and their wings and
tails clipped a little.
RULE 2.—As soon as the cocks are all weighed the judge, the
writers and the principals of each party and as many besides as
the parties may agree upon, are to retire for the purposecuf match-
ing. They are to be all even matches first, then those within one
ounce, and afterwards those within two ounces; but if more
matches can be made by breaking an even or one ounce match, it
is to be done.
RULE 3.—On the day of the showing, only one battle is to be
fought. It is to be remembered that the party winning the show
gains also the choice of fighting this first battle with any par-
ticular c cks in the match. Afterwards they begin with the light-
est pair first and so on up to the heaviest, fighting them in rotation
as they increase in weight. The first battle too, will fix the mode
of trimming.
j? THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
ARTTICLE 1.—When the cocks are in the pit, the judges are to ex--
amine whether they are fairly trimmed and have fair heels. If all
be right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart
(or thereabouts) and retire a step or two back; but if a wrong cock
should be produced, the party so offending forfeits that battle.
ART. 2.—All heels that are round from the socket to the point
are allowed to be fair; any pitter bringing a cock into the pit with
any other kind of heels, except by particular agreement, forfeits
the battle.
ArT. 3.—If either cock should be trimmed with a close, unfair
back, the judge shall direct the other to be cut in the same man-
ner, and at the time shall observe to the pitter that if he brings
another cock in the like situation, unless he shall have been pre-
viously trimmed, he shall forfeit the battle.
Art. 4.—A pitter when he delivers his cock shall retire two
paces back, and not advance or walk around his cock until a blow
has passed.
ArT. 5.—An interval of — minutes shall be allowed betweem
the termination of one battle and the commencement of another.
ArT. 6.—No pitter shall pull a feather out of a cock’s mouth or
from over his eyes or head, or pluck him by the breast to make:
him fight, or punch him for the like purpose, under penalty of for--
feiting the battle.
ART. 7.—The pitters are to give the cocks room to fight, and are:
not to hover and press on them so as to retard their striking.
ArT. 8.—The greasing, peppering, muffing and sooping a cock,.
or any other external application, are unfair practices, and by no.
means admissible in this amusement.
ART. 9.—The judges, when required, may suffer a pitter to call
in some of his friends to assist in catching the cock, who are to re-
tire immediately when the cock is caught, and in no other instance:
is the judge to suffer the pit to be broken.
ART. 10.—All cocks on their backs are to be immediately turned’
over on their bellies by their respective pttters at all times.
ART. 11.—A cock when down is to have a wing given him if he
needs it, unless his adversary is on it, but his pitter is to place the
wing gently in its proper position, and not to lift the cock ; and no
wing is to be given unless absolutely necessary.
THE COCKER'S::G UIDE, SF
ART. 12.—If either cock should be hanged in himself, in the pit,
or canvas, he is to be loosed by his pitter; but if in his edversary,
both pitters are to immediately lay hold of their respective cocks,
and the pitter whose cock is hung shall hold him steady while the
adverse draws out the heel, and then they shall take their cocks
asunder a sufficient distance for them fairly to renew the combat.
ART. 13.-—Shouid the cocks-separate and the judge be unable
to decide which fought last, he shal! at his discretion direct the pit-
ters to carry their cocks to the middle of the pit and deliver them
back to back, unless either of them is blind; in that case they are
to be shouldered, that is, delivered with their breasts touching,
each pitter taking care to deliver his cock at this, as well as at all
times with one hand.
ArT. 14.—When both cocks cease fighting, it is then in the
power of the pitter of the last fighting cock, unless they touch each
-other, to demand a count of the judges, who shall count forty dee
liberately, which, when counted out, is not to be counted again
during the battle. Then the pitters shall catch their cocks and
carry them to the middle of the pit and deliver them beak to beak ;
but to be shouldered if either are blind as before. Then if Saber
cock refuses or neglects to fight, the judge shall count ten, and
shall direct the pitters to bring their cocks again to the middle of
the pit and pit as before ; and if the same cock in like manner re-
fuses, he shail count ten again and call out *‘twice refused,” and
so proceed until one cock thus refuses six times successively. The
judge shall then determine the battle against such cock.
ArT. 15.—If either cock dies before the judge can finish the
counting of the law, the battie is to be given to the living cock,
and if both die, the longest liver wins the battle.
ArT. 16.—The pitters are not to touch their cocks whilst the
judge is in the act of counting.
ArT. 17.—No pitter is ever to lay hold of his adversary’s cock,
unless to draw out the heel, and then he must take him below the
knee. hen there shall be no second delivery, that is, after he is
once delivered he shall not be touched until a blow is struck, uns
less ordered.
Art. 18.—No pitter shall touch his cock unless at the time men-
tioned in the foregving rules. ss
Art. 19.—If any pitter acts contrary to these rules, the judge, if
called upon at the time, shall give the battle against him,
4 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
WESTERN RULES.
RuLE 1.—All birds shall be weighed, give or take two ounces,
shall be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so.
RULE 2.—All heels to be fought with shall round from socket to
point, or as near so as can be made.
RULE 3.—When a stag is matched against a cock, the stag will
be entitled to four ounces advance in weight.
RULE 4.—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling
blood, or any other thing to help the bird between handlings.
RULE 5.—It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while
fighting unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfor-
tunately fasten himself with his own heel it shall be fair to handle,
but on no other consideration, and either handler violating or de-
viating from the above rules shall lose his fight.
RuLeE 6.—Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and
every round.
RuLeE 7.—In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en-
titled to the count; but if his handler refuse to take the count, the
opposite handler shall be entitled to it.
RvuLE 8.—The handler having the cou t shall pit his bird in his
respective place when time is called, and count ten, then handle
three more successive times ; when time is called again, the birds
shall be placed in the center of the pit, breast to breast, and forty
more counted, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight,
the one having it shall be the winner.
RULE 9.—A peck or blow at the opponent’s bird, and not at his
handler, will be considered fighting.
RuLE 10.—When time is called, the handlers must let go their
birds from their respective places f. ir and square, for it shall be
foul for either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent's,
and either one violating the above rule shall lose his fight.
RuLE 11.—Each party shall choose a judge, and the judges
choose a disinterested party as referee. No referee will be com-
petent who has bet on either side, or is otherwise interested.
RULE 12.—It shall be the duty of the judges and referee to
watch all movements of the fights and judge according to the
™
~ x
7HE COCKER'S GUIDE. IS
above rules. The referee will be confined to the opinions of the
judges only, and his decision final.
RvLE 13.—It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time
between the rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-
five seconds, then call time at thirty seconds, when the handlers
must be prompt in pitting their birds ; and if either handler refuse
to do so, he shall lose the fight.
—_——__0-o—_____——_
PHILADELPHIA RULES.
ARTICLE 1.—The pit must be a ground floor, unless otherwise
agreed to.
ART. 2.—The cock or stag must be weighed enclosed in a small
bag, and then two ounces deducted for the weight of the bag and
feathers. A stag fighting a cock has an allowance of four ounces
in weight, a blinker cock tighting a two-eyed one has four ounces;
a blinker cock and a stag of one weight are a match.
ArT. 3.—The cocks being weighed and matched, you will cut
them out; you must cut the hackle with all the shiners off; you
can use your own pleasure about cutting out other parts of your
cock.
ArT. 4.—Your cock now being cut out you will heel him; you
can heel him with paper and water and nothing but that ; if you
do you will lose the battie if the opposite party finds it out.
ART. 5.—Your cock being heeled, you will bring him in the pit
for battle ; you will bill the cocks one minute, and then put them
-down behind your scores for their battle.
ArT. 6.—In fighting a battle, according to Philadelphia Rules,
when you deliver your cock on his score, you must stand back of
him and not lean over him to hide him from the other cock.
ArT. 7.—A cock breaking with another cock is fight, and a cock
picking at any time when on the ground is fight; but picking
_while in your hands is not fight; he must make fight after you de-
SF
liver him out of your hands.
ArT. 8.—When the cocks are fast, you must handle by my
drawing your spur out of my cock and you drawing my spur out
of your cock, you then have thiriy seconds to nurse your cock;
the judge will call ‘*down cocks ;” then you must strictly obey
and put your cock down to renew the battle. In case one of the
36 THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
cocks gets disabled, you can count him out; you can lay your
cock down on his wing on his score, and count ten without the
other cock making fight; you can handle him again, and so on
until you count five tens; then you can get ready to breast your
cocks; you must put them down on their feet and breast to breast,
and if the crippled cock refuses to fight while the opposite handler
counts twenty more, he has lost the battle.
ART. 9.—You are not bound to lay your cock on his wing, you
can use your pleasure whether to lay him on his wing or on his
feet; ifit is to your advantage for your cock to fight, put him
down on his feet and let him fight.
ArT. 10.—In counting a cock out, after you breast the cocks and
you are counting twenty, if the cock should get in the disabled
cock, you dare not put your hand on them unless the disabled cock
makes fight; and if he does make fight, you can handle, and by
his making fight it will renew all the counting from the first, and
if the disabled cock should make fight last it is his count.
ArT. 11.—The judges cut the heels off, and if all is right you
must getready for the next battle ; you are allowed twenty minutes
to be in the pit with the next cock. The judges are to keep the
time.
ArT. 12.—All outside bets go as the main stakes.
ArT. 13.—Any man not paying bets that he lost will not be
allowed in any pit in Philadelphia hereafter.
ENGLISH RULES.
1. That every person show and put his cock into the pit with a
fair hackle, not too near shorn, or out, nor with any other fraud.
2. That every cock fight as he is first shown in the pit, without
shearing or cutting any feathers afterwards, except with the con-
sent of both the masters of the match.
3. When both cocks are set down to fight, and one of them runs
away before they have struck three mouthing blows, it is adjudged
no battle to the persons who bet.
4. No persons to set-to but those who are appointed by the mas-
ters of the match.
= THE -COCKER'S GUIDE. ae
5. When a cock shall come setting-to, and both cocks refuse to
fight ten times successively according to the law, then a fresh cock
shall be hoveled, and the masters of the match must agree which
of them shall turn the cock down; after that, if both fight, or both
refuse, to be deemed a drawn battle; but if one should fight, and
the other refuse, the battle to be allowed won py the fighting cock.
6. After the person appointed by the masters to tell the law shall
have told twice twenty. the cocks to be set-to, beak to beak if they
both see, but if either be blind, then the blind cock to touch; and
on their refusing to fight, the person appointed as before is to tell
ten between each setting-to, till one of the cocks has refused to
fight ten times successively.
7. When ten pounds to a crown are laid on the battle, and not
taken, after twice twenty is told, the battle is determined as won
by that cock the odds are on.
8. That no person shall make any cavil or speech about match-
ing of cocks, either to matchers or owners, after the cocks are
once put together.
g. A master of a match has a right to remove any person out of
the lower ring.
10. No person can make a confirmed bet void without mutual
consent.
11. Bets to be paid on clear proof by creditable witnesses, even
though they have not been demanded immediately after the battle
is over. ~
12. It is recommended that all disputes be finally determined by
the masters of the match, and two other gentlemen whom they
shall appoint ; and in case the four cannot agree, then they shall
fix on a fifth, whose determination shall be final.
GAME COCKS.—FAMOUS BREEDS.
GAFTS, HEELINC, ETC.
There never was a time when interest in game fowl was so
universally felt as-at present. The country, especially New
Jersey, New York, Long Island, and the New England States,
seems to be flooded with the different strains of show and pit fowl,
and to say that any breeder has stock that will not take their death
THE HEATHWOOD.
in the pit would be an unpardonable offence, the penalty of which
varies according to the size of the pocketbook of the gentleman —
who considers himself slandered.
Cock fighting dates back for centuries, and it is vulgarly im-
agined that the game cock is the offspring of the domesticated fowl
and the pheasant. This idea is, however, not assented to by
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 39
ornithologists or the amateurs of the art of cocking. Pliny, the
historian, says that cock fighting was usually practiced by Per-
gamus, acity in Asia. The Athenians practiced it at an annual
festival in the time of the great general, Themistocles, who en-
couraged his soldiers to acts.of bravery by admonishing them to
imitate the example of the cock.
Eubcea and Chalcis were famous for their breeds of game cocks;
they were large, such as our own specimens of the game cock
raised and bred in the South.
THE IRISH SLASHER.
At Alexandria, Egypt, they had a breed of hens, according to
George H. Butler of New York, that produced the best fighting
cocks in the world.
The Romans fought quail, and it is an historical fact that they
were the first to introduce the sport of cock fighting in England,
although the game cock was in England before Cezesar’s arrival in
tbion.
During the reign of Henry VIII., in England, cock fighting was
all the rage, and daily there were battles between the feathered
go THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
warriors. The famous cock pit, known as the Westminster pit,
was established near where the houses of Parliament now stand.
In the reign of Charles IT. cock fighting figured conspicuously as
one of the sports that received royal patronage, and it was during
Charles II.’s reign that famous breed of pyle cocks was first intro-
duced, and was for many years held in high estimation, and even
at the present time are much liked and preferred.
In Cuba, San Domingo, Mexico, and nearly all tropical climates at
the present day, cock fighting is one of the institutions of the land.
YS WN
Gj
rae YY) .
THE DERBY COCK,
In this country, ever since 1812, cock fighting has been one of
the popular sports of the winter, and decades ago important mains
were fought, and some of the leading lights of the political and
social world kept their famous breeds and engaged in mains upon
which depended thousands of dollars. August Belmont, James
Gordon Bennett, Col. Daniel McDaniels, Col. Hunter, John Mor-
rissey, Thomas Heathwood, John Franklin, Harry Genet, and
others equally as well known, have owned game fowls and fought
mains upon which thousands were wagered,
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. af
Cock fighting in this country in 1867 was a national institution.
Thousands of dollars were expended in breeding, training and
crossing game fowls, but the organization of the cruelty to animal
associations and the crusade by Henry Bergh against cock fighting
helped to partially put a stop to the sport.
The well-bred game fowl is the very embodiment of courage,
and no one who admires this desirable quality in anything can
help admiring the proud, haughty carriagé and noble ways of
THE DOMINICK.
these birds, while their handsomely marked bodies make them
still further objects of interest. Aside from their appearance, they
are a really valuable breed to raise, though they should have
ample range to secure their best qualities. Among the old
breeds of game fowls known years ago in this country were the
Dominicks, John Long (Southern breed), Genets, Waltons, Storey,
Morrissey, Ludlow and Heathwood’s Champions, Garibaldi Trot-
ters, Dare Devils, Madcaps, Ironclads, Tornadoes, Tartans, Earth-
quakes, Hurricane and Counterfeits, Derbys and Mulhollands.
G2 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
The names of new strains of fowl are continually springing up,
and every breeder who makes across seems anxious to outstyle
his rivals in giving them some name by which to strike terror,
without the gafts, to the heart of any fowl they happen to be
pitted against in battle array.
Now, if some of the above names are not sufficient to strike
terror to the gamest bird in the world, what is? ‘till, the parties
who make a business of fighting game fowls and who breed these 3
difterent strains of fowl appear to be doing a profitable business in
THE STONE FENCE.
New Jersey, New York and New England, and in fact all parts of
the United States; and the buyers, when they fight their fowls in
mains and happen to lose their money on ‘‘a cuffer” or a run-
away, they simply swear at their misfortune and hard luck, and
when they next desire to purchase, they try the next advertiser,
who is trying to excel his neighbor in the selection of heart-rend-
ing names.
A first-class fighting cock has eyes sparkling with fire, boldness
in his demeanor and freedom in his motions, and displays force in
his proportions.
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. 43
The general outline of the finest game cock, taken as a whule,
approaches that of a lengthened cone or sugar-loaf shape, exclud-
ing the legs and tail, the apex of the cone being the head, and
the base being the vent and the belly. Under such external form
may exist the best proportion of the fighting cock.
In cock fighting, after the fowls have been trained prior to a
main, shake bag, or battle royal, the fowls are trimmed for the
pit. This is an operation knewn as cutting out. It is done after
the we’ghing in process, and tends to give the cock greater force
and activity in the pit.
THE ESLIN COCK.
Cutting out consists in trimming the neck and hackle feathers
close from the head to his shoulders, and clipping off all the
feathers from his tail close to his rump. The wings are then ex-
tended, and they are clipped from the first feather in a sloping
way, leaving sharp points, so that in rising he may endanger the
eyes of hisadversary. Of late years this practice is not followed,
and most fowls are required to be shown in full feather
One of the principal points in preparing a cock to enter the pit
is the heeling. The rules for heeling are to fit the heel of the
gaft tightly to the stub, having the point just pass outside or back
44 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
of the leg, and fastening it tightly while in that position. It is
then necessary for the handler’s assistant to hold the leg heeled,
turn the fowl and proceed to heel the other in the same manner,
with the point occupying a similar position.
In heeling fowls in this manner 1t gives them a great advantage,
and makes them be able to do effective cutting in the body and
neck ; also enabling them to bring down their opponents with
TARTAR GAME COCK.
either a broken wing or leg. A fowl fighting for the head and
neck exclusively requires a much closer heeling ; to accomplish
which, if the heel is to be placed on the right leg, set it so that the
point will be ona line with the centre of the slight hollow per-
ceptible in the upper joint of the right leg. The point of the heel
on the left leg should be placed on a line with the outside of the
upper joint of the left leg.
—
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. 45
The Heathwood is one of the most famous breeds that was ever
in this country. The Heathwoods are a noted strain of games,
named after Thomas Heathwood, of Lowell, Mass. They breed
various colors and weigh from 4% to 6 pounds. They are remark-
ably quick fighters, fighting with force and vigor, stand up well,
and are liberally possessed of bone and muscle.
The Irish Slasher is a favorite breed, being desperate fighters,
fighting as well on their opponent’s hold as theirown. They are
eg
pe
THE TORNADO, CHAMPION GAME COCK OF MICHIGAN.
excellent in the pit, mature early, fight rapidly, and possess good
wind and endurance.
The Derby cock is a famous English breed, which was years ago
imported.
The Dominick breed is well known in the North and South,
where breeders and cockers place great faith in it, although it is
not held in high esteem in the North. They are quick, skillful
fighters, are of good size, well made, and stand up well on their
legs, which are either white or yellow.
46 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
The Stone Fence breed has been claimed to have been kept in
purity for more than five decades. They were formerly raised by
the Arlington family in North Carolina, and the Stone Fence breed
still figures in important mains in the South as well as in the North.
The Eslin cock famous breed originated at Washington, and was
bred by the Eslin family, from which it takes its name. It is of
fine plumage and weighs from five to seven pounds.
The Tartar strain is one of the best ever known. It is in hun-
dreds of mains andshake bags. These cocks are unflinching game.
They have a large breast, heavy-limbed claws, and large red eyes.
The ‘‘ Tornado ”’ is one of the best specimens of the game fowl
in Michigan. He has a way of handling an adversary from the
start that is pleasing to witness, and does not stop to rest until his
work is done, It is seldom a bird lives to win so many hard bat-
tles in the pit, and deserves the position be now holds. He is a
pure Tornado, bred and originated by his owner, and is a com-
bination of several good crosses, which are perfect. This cock is
a fine, well stationed black red, and is to all outward appearance
a good one.
DESCRIPTION OF GAFFS.
There are six different styles of steel gaffs at present used in
cock fighting. In Fig. 1 are shown what
are styled the regulation gaff. These
are used in cock fighting in the North, \$
and are considered the fairest and best Fic. 1.
heel in use for all purposes, being nearly straight and perfectly
round from the socket to point with a short, round socket varying
but little from the Singleton, which is also very much in use.
The gaffs shown in Fig. 2 are extensively used by heelers. The
socket is light, short and round, with
the spur nearly straight, round’ng from
the lower part. These spurs are con-
sidered the fairest in use. They can be
obtained of any desired length, from one
THE COCKER’S GUIDE. 47
inch and a quarter to one inch and three-quarters in length.
In Fig. 3 the gafts differ both in weight, size and pattern from either
the Regulation or Singleton style. The
socket is heavy, long and while deep,
the spur curls upward in.a murderous
curve from the bottom of the socket. It
isa favorite with many handlers, and cannot be barred from any pit.
The gaffs represented in Fig. 4 are principally used in the West,
and many of the advantages claimed for
it are possessed by no other spur: The
we ah socket is thimble shaped, with no open-
ing at the end, constituting the only
Fic. 4. essential difference from other heels. It
is claimed that by filling up the socket, the heel is removed farther -
from the leg, giving the fowl greater purchase in striking and
slashing its adversary.
The full drop socket spurs, shown in Fig. 5 are the most brutal
and murderous weapons used in cock
fighting. The blade comes directly from
the back and lower part of the socket
and, dropping, throws the gaffs even
with the foot. In using these terrific Fic. 5.
slashers, leather is frequently placed on the under part of the
socket to make the drop greater. These gaffs are generally used
in Georgia, North Carolina and the great cities of the South, where
cock fighting is all the rage, also in Cuba and Mexico, but they
are not used in Ohio, Pennsylvania or Northern cities.
The half drop socket gaffs are shown
in Fig. 6. They differ from the full drop
socket in having the blade come directly
from the front part of the socket with a
less long and deep drop.
48 THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
A GOOD SYSTEM.
Itis avery difficult thing to persuade farmers and others to /
adopt a good system of keeping game fowls. Shows may be
visited, and the fine specimens seen there may be admired, but a
lesson is not learned, and the farmer continues to keep his
mongrels in his old fashioned way, without a single effort to
change them or to improve the system on which he works. Sup:
posing we take an example of an ordinary farmer and see what
his system is. We find that he keeps from 60 to 100 hens of no
particular breed, or perhaps it would be more correct to say desti-
tute of breed. If we could investigate their ages, we might find
that some are six or seven years old, the majority four to five,
and a few from one to three years. At ail events, the major por-
tion will have seen their best days, and be returning what does
not pay for their food. The farmer's argument, of course, is that
he receives so much weekly for eggs, and that the fowls cost him
nothing, inasmuch as they only get their tail corn. These fowls
are, perhaps, housed wherever they can find a beam or rafter to
roost upon. The hen house is eithera mass of filth or it is ex-
posed to every wind that blows, as well as every shower, and
consequently the fowls forsake it, and as a matter of course their
eggs are laid on all parts of the farm. Some are lost, others
stolen, and others broken and spoiled. To make poultry keeping
a success all this should not be. It is all very well to assume
that, because fowls consume the tail corn, they do not cost any-
thing ; but that corn has its value, and would sell well, and surely
return more than it does by being given to the birds, and again, it
would return a larger percentage if given under a good system
and to good birds of proper breed and of a proper age.
The best plan to show a farmer what his loss is or what his gain
might be is to value his run for a year. It is very well known that
in some parts farmers let the dairy for so much to a cow keeper.
This includes stabling for the cows, meadow, hay, straw, etc., for —
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 49
a certain number. The cowkeeper simply provides his own cows,
milks them, sells his milk, and out of the proceeds pays his rent.
If he cares to give an extra food, suchas cake or corn, he does so
at his own cost, and reaps a result in additional milk. Upon the
same principle a farmer might let a yard toa person to run a cer-
tain number of fowls, which should be entitled to all they picked
up and the whole of the tail corn. An experienced poultry keeper
would know how to value this privilege, and if, for example, he
estimated it and made a farmer an offer of a certain amount, he
would no doubt astonish him. At all events, the idea would show
the farmer whether he was losing or making money by keeping
poultry himself, and disabuse him of the idea that all he made was
profit.
A farmer who is determined to make the most of every branch
of his farm—and of course would include poultry and game fowls
—would commence well; his birds would necessarily be judic-
iously selectod both as to age and breed; he would see that
regular attention was devoted to them, just as it is upon all stock
farms to the cows and calves, lambs and colts. Who ever hears
of a farmer inquiring whether the hens are all roosting in their
house, seeing that it is thoroughly cleaned out or lime washed? He
- considers it beneath his notice. He would provide a properly
made and well arranged building, which would be periodically
cleaned out and whitewashed. The nest boxes would be properly
made, and the perches placed at the proper height and made the
required width. The whole would be made vermin-proof and
at stated times it would be visited at night to see that all is safe
-and the hens are none of them missing. Without attention being
paid just as regularly asitis to other stock, poultry cannot be
expected to pay. It does not necessarily take much time, but the
master’s eye must be upon it and he must see that all is done that
is required.
If itis right to give pigs and cows additional warmth, better
food and housing, surely the same principle should apply in deal-
50 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
ing with poultry. Some animals feed all night as well as all day,
and in this respect winter makes no difference to them; but with
fowls it is quite different, for the poor things have to combat severe
weather and long hours without food, and yet they are expected
to be productive. Long, cold winter nights are enough to give
disease to any fowl in the world when its stomach is empty and it
has nothing to supply artificial warmth ; but no one seems to think
of this. In the month of December, for instance, feeding must
take place soon after four, and it cannot well be repeated until
seven the next morning at the earliest, and on cold mornings that
is in all probability eight, so that the birds’ last meal has to last
them sixteen hours out of the twenty-four. This is not asit should
be, and our opinion is that feeding should be equalized, and,
above all, the birds should have ample sustenance in the night to
enable them to withstand cold ; it is more important than the day
feeding, because then they are active and find a great deal of
food. Wecan only say that if we kept a farm and intended to
supply eggs to the markets our first idea would be to arrange a
system of night feeding in winter, so that the birds would have
food enough at the last meal to carry them on well to the morning.
Stimulated food would then do wonders, more than warmed houses
and all the artificial heating we hear about. In the summer time
there is no necessity, for the hours of daylight permit of three
times feeding, say at six a. m., at two o’clock and at eight o’clock
at night. We knowvery well that many of the finest birds have
been reared to theirsize inthis way. This feeding has won many
prizes and improved breeds, and, depend upon it, would increase
the number of eggs laid by a very large number, and when the
system has been well adopted it will not be found to be very
irksome,
In selecting a brood cock it is best to pick one weighing
from six to seven and one-half pounds on the walk, as they are
apt to be better birds than heavier or lighter ones. They should
be high-stationed, but not stilty, with a long, large neck bone ar.d
LE COCKER'S” GUIDE: SI
short hackle, medium-sized, bright red head, with large, full eyes,
beak short and stout, curved or hooked, with a short, quick crow,
broad across the shoulders, tapering to the tail, the tail long and
strong and carried open a little above the horizontal position,
shallow between the breast and back with long, strong, bony wings
carried puffed out at the butts and a little dropped at the points,
long thigh and large muscle, leg medium, flat or hollow ground
spur, low toward the foot, toes long and thin, a quick lively fighter,
fierce in battle and ready at any moment to defend his hens. Let
the hens turn the scales well up to the standard, say four or four
_anda half pounds; have them perfect in form, the larger the bet-
ter, as all breeders know that the hen is the parent that gives
wind and muscle to the stags and cocks.
Having used the utmost care in the selection of your hens and
_brood-cock, you at once take them toa place where there are no
other fowl, and where they can have sufficient care and attention.
_Yourcoops should be large, airy and properly ventilated, and in
. order to keep clear from lice should have occasionally a coat of
_ whitewash, and the perches should be made irom sassafras trees.
| Plenty of fresh water and a change os food frequently have a ten-
dency to make the hens lay early in the season, a very important
feature, I assure you, as the earlier you get the chicks out, the
larger and stronger the stags are when needed, which usuaily comes
about Thanksgiving time or about the holidays—Christinas and
|New Year.
Fowl need a grand run as they do much better than when
_cooped up, and if there is a stream of water running through the
grounds, it will be found exceedingly beneficial. Too much im-
portance cannot be paid to this matter, as fowls, especially games,
require the cooling- stream to wet their parched throats in the |
wa:m, sultry days of mid-summer, and the little chicks need
shelter from the scorching sun under the shade trees and arbor
vines. For a change of food, a small portion of raw beef cut in
‘small pieces and fed occasionally is proper. A few onions chop-
52 THE COCKERS+~GUIDE:
ped fine seems to act as a tonic, and keeps them free from disease;
now and then a bit of fresh fish does no harm; on the contrary it
seems to sharpen their appetite, and when the change comes from
whole and cracked corn, they appear to take to it with a keen
relish. One of the best feeds on a very cold day is a hot mash,
made of boiled potatoes mixed with shorts, with a little red pep-
per. Itis but natural that fowl require a change of food as well
as every other living object.
In collecting your eggs for setting, care should be taken not to
hendle or shake them too much, as it injures the yolk, thus spoil-
ing them forany practical purpose. Invselecting eggs most people
make a mistake by thinking the larger the egg the better ; a small
egg nine cases out of ten, will have a larger chicken than a large
egg. A long egg with a large butt-end, one that tapers off with a
true taper to the small end should be selected, chickens coming
from such eggs more often have large and full breasts, conse-
quently there is plenty of room for the lungs to expand, and this
insures good wind, if the cocks are properly worked, when being
conditioned, a very important point when itcomes toa long battle.
which often occurs when short heels are used. The eggs should
be kept in corn bran, with small end down, although there are
many cockers who keep them in cotton batting, one layer of eges
and then one layer of batting, and occasionally turning them over,
say every few days, until you are ready to set them. The more
care some people seem to take with their eggs the worse luck they
have in hatching them. This is often the fault of the brood-cock
and not the breeders; then again hens cooped up do not do as
well as those who have a good large run.
Another thing which is inadvisable is to set eggs laid after the hen
has commenced to cluck and run from the cock, for it would be —
but natural for a chicken from such an egg to turn and run ina
hard fight. Many old and reliable cockers firmly believe this to
be a fact, the reason for which will suggest itself at once. In set- |
ting your eggs, select a warm, dry place, and arrange your nests
THE. COCKER'S GUIDE.- ° 53
so that the hen can get on and offeasily. This will cause her to
feed frequently. Have plenty of dry sand conveniently near, as
the hen likes to get off and wallow in the sand after taking her
feed and water, which, by the way, should always be near the
nest. An ordinary butter-tub, cheese-box or half barrel make
good places to set eggs. The nest should be made of clean straw,
with a sprinkling of cedar shavings; the latter prevents the breed-
ing of lice or other vermin.
As the time grows near, say the last week for the eggs to hatch,
it will be well to sprinkle them with cool water three or four
times; this will make the shells pip and burst open easy at the
proper time, thus giving the chicks much easier work in freeing
themselves from the shell. Many use warm water, but cool water
is decidedly the best, as it seems to refresh the little fellows and
give them strength even in t>eir enclosure. After the hen has
hatched all her chickens, leave them on the nest twenty-four hours
at least, then remove her to a dry place and coop her on the
ground ; my coops are without bottoms, for from floors the toes
get crooked. Feed them for the first two weeks on what they will
eat of soft food, but do not give them any more than they can eat
at one time. An egg boiled hard and cut fine, with some soaked
cracker mixed, together with a little black pepper occa-ionally,
does nicely. Now and then a change to oat meal mixed with a
little milk is excellent feed. Then, when they get to be large
enough, give them cracked corn, oats, and whole corn, and you
will find them making rapid progress.
You must take special pains to keep them free from lice when
young, and although there are plenty of remedies, among the
most simple ones are Persjan insect powder, and another is a com-
pound of olive oil, 6 oz., and sassafras, % oz. Grease the hen and
_ little chicks around the head and under the wings, and you wiil
find that lice and fleas will disappear at once, as this is a deadly
poison to them and they will not stay where it is. Game chickens
are extremely sensitive, care should be taken of them while young,
54 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
Tom Heathwood, of Lowell, Mass., the originator of the
famous Heathwoods, probably the best breed of game fowls in
America, thus writes authoratively on the game cock, he says:
Game fowls do very well if they have the free range of a farm, but
when winter comes they will only lay once in a while. Take the
-same fowls and care for them as they should be cared for both
winter and summer, and you will be astonished at the difference
in egg production. Extra care and feed not only produces more
but better eggs. In the first place hens must be free from lice and
in good health. Construct your houses good and warm, so as to
avoid damp floors and afford a flood of sunshine. Sunshine is
better than medicine. Provide a dusting and fresh water or milk
daily, and never allow them to go thirsty. Feed them systemat-
ically two or three times a day, and scatter the grain so that they
cannot eat too fast or without proper exercise. Do not feed more
than they will eat, or they will get tired of that kind of food.
Give soft feed in the morning and grain at night. Cooked meal
or vegetables mixed with bran, a teaspoonful of charcoal and a
little red pepper is a good morning meal, and three-fourths corn
and one-fourth wheat or screenings is good for evening. I once
knew a man who fed whole red peppers to his fowls to make them
savage. but I never saw any evidence of its working on them in
that way ; but it is very good to keep the fowls in good condition.
those breeders of poultry who have cows can supply their fowls
with milk, and it is very good for laying hens. Most of the refuse
milk generally goes to the pigs, and no doubt benefits them greatly»
but it would pay better to turn it into chicken flesh instead, unless
you have encugh for both Sweet or sour, thick or not, the fowls
and chicks relish it and should have a supply kept ina convenient
place. It is not absolutely necessary that game fowls should thus
be taken care of. They may be left out of doors to roost on trees
or fences and they may get along all right; but it is always best to
be sure your fowls are all right, as a little extra care will be more
than repaid by better results.
THE COCKER’S GUIDE: 2)
A VARIETY OF FOOD.
In winter, when Jack Frost demands so much heat to counter-
balance his icy touch, we must keep our fowls comfortably warm,
and feed them on such food as will supply the requisite amount of
heat. If is true, corn isa most excellent winter food, in connec-
tion with other grain, to enable the stock to successfully withstand
the cold, but it is poor grain to produce eggs. Buckwheat is good
food for winter use. It is heating and stimulating, and induces
early laying. A warm mess of wheat middlings, potatoes and
scraps of meat makes an excellent breakfast. These combine
heat, nutriment and egg properties. Buckwheat or oats for din-
ner, and wheat or corn for supper, is good fare; but though good
in their way, fowls require green food besides. Hens and pullets
that have been fed on this or on a similar kind of fare during the
few months of winter will in the early spring be laying freely. To
keep this up, it is necessary that the food should be varied and of
good quality. The production ofan egg a day, or one every other
day, is a strain on the strength and capacity ofa hen. At this sea-
son fowls cannot forage for their food and are entirely dependent
upon what is given them. But we can overdo this thing—they
should have all they will eat up clean, but never overfed. Fowls
kept up to their full vigor during winter, will produce eggs cor-
respondingly strong and healthy, and the chicks will thrive and
grow better than when hatched from eggs laid by hens in a
neglected or poor condition. ‘‘ The reason why eight or ten fowls
.about the house of the mechanic, the gardener or the laborer are
more profitable is because of better feeding and less crowding,
better sanitary conditions ot yard and roost. Extent of grassy
range of fowls is more important than provided food, for here they
obtain not only air food, but also insect food, which is the essen-
tial nitrogenous element necessary for egg production. Equally
important to extensive grass range are clean and airy rooting
houses or sheds. The houses should have doors on the ground, to
56 THE COCKER’S GUIDE.
be left open in the summer, and at least two side slat ventilators |
should be provided. Running water is a most desirable and easy
means of water supply. With this water supply, without care or-
labor, the food supply may be equally convenient and labor-sav- -
ing. Drive four stakes into the ground, so as to leave them two |
feet above the surface and six inches apart, and upon these nail.
two boards so as to make a table large enough to permit the fowls;
a footing around a nail keg in the center, covered by a wide bcard
and weighted by a large flat stone. This keg may be filled with
corn or cracked corn, and having three or four augur holes near
the bottom, it is self-feeding. What runs out is lodged upon the
table; it is kept clean and dry and secure from rats and other
vermin. This is a cheap, simple and labor-saving manner of
keeping fowls, and it will be found a most profitable plan. This
grass range may be a small pasture ora large cow yard. Fowls’
should never be allowed in barns, stables or carriage houses.
Their houses should be fumigated by burning half a pound of
sulphur every spring and fall while the fowls are shut out for the
day and be well aired before roosting time. Not more than twenty
or thirty fowls should be allowed to roost in one house; but two
or more of their houses may be erected in the pasture or range,
provided it is large enough. In this case the feeding place may be
the same, only a barrel may be used instead of a keg, to save
trouble. The largest liberty and most generous feeding, with an
observance of cleanliness, will secure the best yield of eggs and
the largest number of healthy fowls. This is the way to secure the
largest profits in the poultry yard.”
The ‘‘ Edinburg Encyclopedia” gives the following valuable in-
formation in regard to feeding game fowls:
It says the fowl comes from bis ‘* walk” in good condition and
is too fat for fighting and will possess no wind until he is reduced.
To effect this medicine and abstinence from food are required for
seven or eight days before he can be brought to the hit, at least
such is the regime pursued by our first feeders and is pretty gener-
Pie COCKER SS ‘GUIDE. 57
ally as follows: His tail and spurs being cut short he is put into
his pen, and the first day received no food; second, he has his
physic, consisting of cream of tartar or jalap, or both united, in
the dose of about five grains of each; or if it be a very fat and
large fowl, the dose may be increased to ten grains of cream of
tartar. These are given him mixed in fresh butter; this generally
purges briskly and scours out the intestines. Immediately after
the physic is given and before it affects him, he is placed on loose
straw or a grass plot with another cock and allowed to spar with
him, the boots or muffles being previously tied on their short spurs.
In this way he is exercised till he is a little weary; he is then re-
turned to his pen. Before putting him up, it is necessary to ex-
amine his mouth to see if he has been picked or wounded in the
inside, as such wound is apt to canker. To prevent this, it is
washed with a little vinegar and brandy. Heis now allowed his
warm nest to work off his physic. This is a diet made of warm
ale or sweet wort, and bread in it, with a little sugar candy, or
bread and milk and sugar candy, a large tea cup full. He is then
shut up close till the next morning, or about twenty-four hours.
If the weather is cold the room should be made warn, or a blanket
placed over the pen; if in warm weather he may be clipped out
for fighting ; but if the weather is cold, this shouid be left till the
time of fighting. The room should be kept dark except at feeding.
Early on the following morning, that is about the third day, his
pen must be cleaned out from the effects of the physic, etc., and
clean dry straw put in; this should be done every day, His feet
should be washed and wiped clean before he is returned to his
pen. If his feet feel cold his pen should be made warmer, He is
next to be allowed some bread; that is, a sort of bread made of
ingredients in the following proportions: about three pounds of
fine flour, two eggs, four whites of eggs and a little yeast; this is
kneaded with a sufficiency of water for a proper consistency, and
well baked. Some add, as a great secret, a small number of annis
seeds ora little cinnamon, Of this bread as much as would fill a
58 THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
tea cup, cut into pieces, is given him twice that day; no water is
allowed him then, as it is considered highly injurious at the early
part of the feeding. On the fourth day early in the morning he
should receive half a tea cup of good barley and a little water, in
which a toast has been steeped some time. MHavirg eaten this,
clean his pen, etc., and let it be uncovered for about an hour
while he scratches and picks the straw. Some think it is highly
advantageous to prepare the barley for them by bruising it, and
thus take away the sharp points of the barley and the husky shell
or covering which is blown away. In the afternoon the same
quantity of barley may be repeated, but no water. On the fifth
or next day he may have the bread as before, but three portions
of itand no water. On the sixth or weighing day very early in
the morning, give him the bread as before. He is then to be
weighed, and afterwards a good feed of barley and water should
be given. Some hold it a valuable secret to give them flesh, as
sheep’s heart, for this and the succeeding day, chopped small and
mixed with the other food. On the seventh day or day before
fighting, early in the morning let him have the same feed of bar-
ley ; in the afternoon bread and the white of an egg boiled hard
anda little water. On the eighth or day of fighting he may have
a little barley, as about forty grains.
CMEAP EGG-PRODUCING FOOD.
There are many ways of preparing cheap, nourishing foods,
which may contain all the elements of the eggs. One of the best
is as follows :
Take a piece of liver, rough beef, or even blood (about a
pound), and boil it to pieces in half a gallon of water, adding more
when too much has evaporated. While boiling, add half a pint of
soaked beans, the same of rice, and the same of linseed meal.
When the whole is cooked, add salt to taste, and thicken with two
parts ground oats, one part bran, one part middlings, and one of
THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 49
corn meal. Add the mixed ground grain until the mess has
thickened to a stiff dough. If it burns a little, no harm will be
done. Then stir ina half a pint of ground bone. If milk be con-
venient, it may also be added, either as curds, buttermilk, or in
any other shape. When boiling, add a tablespoonful of bread
soda to the water. This food may be cooked in the shape of
cakes, and crumbled for the fowls, or fed in the soft state. <A
tablespoonful is sufficient for each hen. Just before adding the
ground grain, chopped clover may be placed in the boiler also.
Another good mess is to chop clover very fine, and steep it over
night in boiling water. In the morning’ let the water come to a
boil, and adda quart of fresh bullock’s blood to each gallon of
water, thicken with mixed ground grain as before, and feed. Con-
diments, such as red pepper, ginger, etc., should be fed sparingly.
Once or twice a week is often enough, but all the soft food should
be salied to suit the taste, as salt is as essential to poultry as to
larger stock.
Always provide plenty of clean drinking water.
MINTS ON MANAGEMENT OF INCUBATORS.
Some cautionary advice may not come amiss to beginners. I
never test the eggs during incubation by means of a bright light
or the direct rays of the sun. Better not test them atall. Watch
for eggs that sweat, and pick them out. The embryo is dead.
The non-fertile eggs may be picked out at the end of incubation,
and immediately boiled to be fed to the ckicks. These eggs, held
up to a lighted Jamp in the ho!low between the thumb and fore-
finger, will quickly show for themselves. Don’t handle the eggs
nor jar them unnecessarily. Keep the egg chamber dark during
incubation. In starting up a new incubator, begin several months
before you require its use. Put ina few eggs and study your
machine till it becomes as familiar to you as ABC —till it becomes
almost a part of yourself,
60 THE COCKER'S GUIDE.
To sum up the whole argument, I will call your attention to
three points essential to success in hatching eggs artificially. Keep
up a good average degree of temperature ; run your incubator in
a room supplied with fresh, wholesome air; learn by repeated
tests, keeping a record always asa guide for future use, just how
to run the incubator you possess, particularly in point of moisture
supply, and you will agree with me that the fault is not in the
machines, but in their management, that accounts for the non-
success in artificial incubation. In this connection you may be
interested in my preferences as to methods of applying heat arti-
ficially to eggs for the purpose of incubation. I prefer hot water
to hot air, not because of any relative difference in the quality of
the heat, for I deem it impossible to obtain moisture from tight
galvanized iron tanks or pipes, but more particularly by reason of
the fact that while sudden changes of temperature up or down are
possible, and indeed probable, in hot-air machines, it is not pos-
sible in hot-water machines. Besides this important consideration,
both top and bottom radiation is possible in the latter, while it is
not possible in the former style of incubators; in the hot-water
machines, moisture pans may be placed and regulated ; but in the
hot-air machines, sprinkling or spraying is the only resource, if I
except the wetting of the felt in the egg pans, all of which I main-
tain is uncertain and haphazard. I own a double-oven Oxford in-
cubator, and I feel confident that I know whereof I speak. I may
here add that I am not familiar with any other style of hot-air
machine.
— e904. ---__— -
FROSTED COMBS.
If the fowl is discovered before the comb wattles or toes have
thawed out, hold them, entirely covered with snow, in ice cold
water, until the frost is entirely gone. Then keep them thoroughly
oiled with glycerine. Do not allow them to become hard and dry,
but keep them soft, and they will lose but a small part of the
frozen members, and in many cases the toes can be saved entire.
LAE 'COCKER'S GUIDE. 61
ee Se Se Sol eee ee eo eee
But, if the frost has disappeared before a remedy is applied, all
that can be done will be to keep the frozen parts from drying up,
by frequent applications of glycerine.
ENGLISH NOTES ON COCKS AND COCKERS.
The following brief notes on the past and present cocks, cockers
and cocking in England were furnished at the request of the author
by J. Harris, who has been enthusiastically devoted to the sod
from a child, and who has not merely had a local experience of a
few birds and men, but has assisted and also fought many of the
best cockers all over the kingdom.
The origin of the game cock is enveloped in considerable
obscurity, for whilst many naturalists affirm that it is the reclaimed
wild jungle fowl, as still found in India, many others who have
given the subject muck careful consideration and research are of
an opinion that our game fowls were originally from Persia, where
they deem it probable that a race of white-legged birds were very
early reclaimed, but whose originals, like many wild animals,
have long since become extinct, and their sporting history dawns
in this country of Persia and the early records of China, althcugh
most books, etc., point us to Themistacles as the first cocker
known to fame, who, some authorities state, received an omen of
the success of the army he was leading from the crowing of the
cocks ; but Aolieu, the author cited, says he saw the cocks fight-
ing. Yet Idomeusus long before that time bore on his shield the
effigies of a cock as a martial bird. History informs us that they
were bred for fighting in the reign of Croesus, king of Lydia (A. M.
3426.) The ancient Dordanii had representations of cock fighting
on their coins. The fighting cock was one of the principal gods of
the Lyrians, and the learned Hebrew, Dr. Rabbi David, interpret-
ing the 17th chapter of 2nd Kings, verses 30 and 31, says ‘*Nergel”
was acock for war or fighting, or champion cock, and by the
Samaritans worshipped for a god.
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