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Jt f

THE

Complete Dog Book

Dr. WILLIAM A^BRUETTE

CINCINNATI
STEWART KIDD COMPANY

COFTRIGHT, 1921

STEWART KIDD COMPANY

.3F

^iV

Foreword

The Bench Show standards and scales of points
presented in this book are those laid down by the
Specialty Clubs in America and Great Britain,
and are used in judging the most important shows
in this and other countries. They will be found an
admirable guide for the uninitiated and will enable
the expert judge and fancier to refresh his mind in
regard to the mandates of the fancy, whenever he
may feel the necessity of so doing. Changes occur
in these standards from time to time, and it is the
intention of the publisher to incorporate them in
successive annual editions, corrected and revised up
to the latest expressions of the various Clubs.

The second part of this book has been devoted to
the breeding and management of dogs in health and
their care and treatment in disease. The aim here
has been to present in simple language highly im-
portant technical knowledge which will enable an
amateur to establish a kennel of dogs and conduct
it successfully. It is an interesting and profitable
occupation, for there is always a demand for well-
bred puppies of all breeds.

W. A. B.

394643

Contents

Page

The Origin of the Dog - - - - 9

Guard Dogs:

TheMastifF 12

The St. Bernard - - - - - 16

The Newfoundland ----- 24

The Great Dane ----- 29

Coursing Hounds:

The Scottish Deerhound - - - - 33

The Irish Wolfhound - - - . 37

The Russian Wolfhound - - - - 42

The Greyhound ----- 45

The Whippet ------ 49

Scenting Hounds:

The Bloodhound - - - - - 51

The Otterhound ----- 55

The Foxhound ------ 57

The Harrier ------ 61

The Beagle -------63

The Basset Hound ----- 66

The Dachshund - 7^

Shepherd Dogs:

The Old English Sheep Dog . - - 73

The Collie, Rough-coated - - - 77

The Collie, Smooth-coated - - - - 82

The German Shepherd Dog - . - 83

The Shetland Collie ----- 94

CONTENTS

Gun Dogs: Page

The Pointer ----.. ^y

The English Setter - - - - - 104

The Irish Setter - - - - - -114

The Gordon Setter - - - - - 117

The Griffon - - - - - -120

Retrievers:

The Chesapeake Bay Dog - - - - 123
The Irish Water Spaniel - - - - 126

The Flat-coated Retriever - - - - 129
The Curly-coated Retriever - - - 131
The Labrador ------ 134

Working Spaniels:

The Spaniel Family - - - _ ij6
The English Springer - - - - 138

The Field Spaniel - - - - - 140
The Cocker Spaniel - - - - 144

The Clumber Spaniel - - - - - 148
The Sussex Spaniel - - - - - 151

The Welch Springer - - - - - 1 54

Working Terriers:

The Old English Broken-Haired - - - 158
The Black and Tan or Manchester - - 159

The Fox Terrier, Smooth - - - - 163

The Fox Terrier, Rough - - - - 168

The Airedale - - - - - -169

The Bedlington - - - - - 172

The Scottish - - - - - -175

The Skye - - - - - - 178

CONTENTS

Page

The Clydesdale - - - - - -i8i

The Dandle Dinmont - - - - 184

The West Highland White - - - - 191

The Irish Terrier - - - - - 196

The Welsh Terrier ----- 201

The Sealyham ----- 203

The White English ----- 206

Specialty Dogs:

The Bulldog ao8

The Bull Terrier and Miniature - - 218

The Boston ------ 223

The French Bulldog - - - - 228

The Dalmatian - - - - - -232

The French Poodle ----- 236

The Chow ------- 239

Toy and Lap Dogs:

The King Charles Spaniel - - - - 242

The Prince Charles Spaniel - - - 242

The Blenheim Spaniel ----- 242

The Ruby Spaniel ----- 242

The Japanese Spaniel ----- 248

The Yorkshire Terrier - - - - 251

The Italian Greyhound - - - - ^55

The Pomeranian ----- 257

The Schipperke ------ 262

The Pekingese ----- 265

The Brussels GrifFon ----- 268

The Toy Poodle - . - - - - 270

The Maltese - - - - - -271

The Pug ------- 273

CONTENTS

Foreign Dogs: Page

The Eskimo and Samoyede - - - - 277

The Russian Sheep Dog - - - - 279

The Norwegian Elkhound - - - - 279

The Dobermann Pinscher - . - 280
The Boxer - - - - - - -281

The Papillon - - - - - - 282

The Chihuahua ------ 283

Diseases of Dogs:

Diagnosis ------- 284

Care, Diet, Nursing - - - . 286

Distemper - 288

Intestinal Parasites ----- 292

Skin Diseases ------ 297

Stomach and Bowels - - - - 302

Eye, Ear, and Throat 308

Nervous Diseases - - - - - 315

C^RE AND Management:

Sleeping Quarters - - - - - -319

Bedding - - - - - - - 321

Feeding - - - - - - - -322

Watering - - - - - - - 324

Washing - - - - - - -3^4

Exercise ------- '326

Grooming -..-.- . 327

Fleas and Lice - - - - - - 327

The Laws of Breeding - - - . 329

Heredity and Evolution - - - - 330

In-breeding - - - - - - - 33^^

CONTENTS

Page

Correlation ------ ^^3

Atavism ------- ^34

Pre-natal Impressions - - - - 335

Telogeny ------- 336

Whelping Table ----- ^37

The Brood Bitch ------ 338

Nursing and Weaning - - - - 340

Training -------- 344

Effects of Training ----- 345

Training Age ------ 345

Rewards and Punishments - . . 346

Training Methods - - - - - - 348

House Breaking ----- 3^0

Minding the Whistle 351

List of Illustrations

Page
Terjuers ------ Frontispiece

Engush Mastiff -------~i6

Dane, St. Bernard, Newfoundland - - - 24

Greyhound, Russian Wolf Hound, Whippet - 40

American Wolfhound, English Greyhound - 48

English Bloodhounds ------ 56

American Beagle, American Bred Foxhounds 72

Old Engush Sheep Dogs, Collies - - - - 80

American Bred Collie, Police Dog - - - 88

American Bred English Setter and Puppies - 104

Irish Setter, English Setter, Pointer - - 112

Irish Water Spaniels, Chesapeake Bay Dog - 128

Cocker Spaniel, Wealdstone Field Spaniels 136

Clumber Spaniel, Cocker Spaniel - - - 152

Cairn Terrier, Sealyham Terrier, Old English
Sheep Dog, Wire-haired Fox Terrier, Welsh
Terrier - - - - - - - - -168

Airedale, Airedale Puppies ----- 176

Irish Terrier, Scottish Terrier, West Highland
White Terrier, Wire-haired Fox Terrier,
Skye Terriers, Welsh Terrier - - -184

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page

The Bulldog -------- 208

French Bull, Chow Chow, French Poodle, Dal-
matian __----___ 216

English Toy Spaniel, Blenheim Spaniel, The
Pomeranian, Yorkshire Terrier, The Schip-

peke ---------- 240

Japanese Spaniel, Japanese Spaniel's Puppies,
Pekingese, Brussels Griffon - - - - 264

English Pugs -_---_-_ 272

Doberman, Norwegian Elkhound, Samoyed,
Chihuahua -------- 280

THE ORIGIN OF THE DOG

Although the exact origin of the dog is shrouded
in that old and familiar refuge of the scientists, "the
mists of antiquity," their family history is easily
traced back through the bronze age and the stone
age to the geological drift that first evidenced the
use of fire, which is ordinarily accepted as indicating
the advent of man upon the earth. Further than
this science sayeth not. Statues and carvings exist
which show there were dogs in the most ancient
times resembling in important particulars the breeds
of the present, but it has never been decided whether
these dogs or those of to-day were descended from
some dog-like ancestor or were relatives of the fox,
the jackal, or the wolf. On this subject it may be
said that there is a resemblance in appearance be-
tween some breeds of dogs and foxes. They are
unlike, however, in character and habits, for the
fox is not a social animal and does not hunt in
packs, and foxes also have a peculiar odor that
dogs have not. It may also be stated that despite
the many cases referred to of crosses between foxes
and dogs, there is not on record a duly authentic
case of such a cross ever having occurred.

What has been said about the lack of relationship
between dogs and foxes does not hold good in refer-
ence to wolves and jackals, for the latter so closely

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

resemble many breeds of dogs in general appear-
ance, structure, habits, instincts, and mental qual-
ities that they may be regarded as of one stock. It
is impossible to formulate a definition that will in-
clude all the varieties of the domestic dog that
exclude all of the wild species. In addition to their
marked similarity in size, appearance, and an-
atomical structure, both wolves and jackals can be
and frequently are trained, while domesticated dogs
frequently become wild, consorting and inter-
breeding with the former, assuming their habits
and changing their characteristics back to a wolf-
like hound. The wolf and jackal when trained
wag their tails, lick their masters' hands, crouch or
throw themselves on their back in submission, come
when called, jump about when caressed, and in
high spirits run around in circles or in figure eights,
their plaintive howl changing to a businesslike bark.

There are so many breeds of dogs so unlike in size
and appearance that it is difficult to reconcile their
being derived from a common ancestry. The marked
disparity in size, however, between the tiny toy
Spaniel and the St. Bernard is no greater than the
disparity between the Percheron horse and the
Shetland pony, the Patagonian and the pigmy.

In the origin of species Darwin reports several
interesting experiments, one being the breeding to-
gether promiscuously of a large number of fancy
pigeons of totally different sizes, varieties, and
types. The result was one uniform type, the com-
mon wild wood pigeon. In the face of these experi-
ments it is probable that the breeding together of

THE ORIGIN OF THE DOG

several varieties of horses would revert back to one
uniform type, the wild horse, and the mating of all
the different varieties of dogs would result in an
animal in all respects similar to the wild dogs which
are to be found in different parts of the world, par-
ticularly in Africa.

There is conclusive evidence to prove that the
people who lived in the monolithic age, in both the
Eastern and Western hemispheres, possessed dogs,
living with them on the same terms of intimacy as
exist to-day, and later the Chaldeans, the Assyrians,
the Greeks, and the Romans owned dogs that were
the progenitors of those of the present time.

In fact, the prehistoric drifts, the ashes of fires
and mould in caves revealing man's first presence
on the globe also reveal the presence of the dog.
The history of the dog is the history of man, their
origin is coexistent, their lives have been lived to-
gether, and the extinction of the human race would
likely be punctuated by the extinction of the dog.

In the last half century great care has been given
to the breeding of dogs. Thanks to dog shows and
their rigid rules of registration demanded by the
Kennel Club, the various canine types have been
brought to a high state of perfection and kept un-
compromisingly distinct. The elimination of the
nondescript cur is steadily progressing, and the
meeting on the streets of dogs that do not bear re-
semblance to some recognized breed is becoming
more and more uncommon, for within the last two
years even the amateur dog owner is alive to the
importance of keeping breeds distinct.

GUARD DOGS

THE MASTIFF

The Mastiff is one of the oldest and most typical
of British dogs. It is probable that he owes his
origin to the dogs of similar type that were used by
Assyrian kings for lion hunting. There is also a
similarity between them and the fierce MoUosian
dog of the ancient Greeks. However this may be,
there is no question but what the Mastiff has been
cultivated in the British Isles for many centuries.
It is mentioned in Roman history of the eighth year
of the Christian era that the MoUosian dogs of the
Greeks were pitted against the Pugnaces of Britain
and that the latter overpowered them. It is also
further stated by the same writer, Gratiu^ Falliscus,
that there were two kinds of British Pugnaces, a
large and a small type, the latter probably being
the prototype of the present Bulldog.

The word "Mastiff" is derived from the Latin
massiviuSy meaning massive or large, but at differ-
ent times the names Tie-dog and Ban-dog have been
applied to the Mastiff. At an early date they were
undoubtedly used to guard flocks and herds as well
as homes. Later they were trained to fight bulls,
bears, lions, and other animals imported for that

GUARD DOGS

purpose. Three well-trained Mastiffs, it is recorded,
were considered a fair match for a bear, four for a lion.

Fashions in dogs fluctuate. At one time the MastiflF
was the pride of the British Show Ring and one of
the most popular breeds in the couutry, but for
some reason hard to understand — for the Mastiff is
one of the most impressive of dogs — the public lost
interest in the breed, and for the past twenty years
it has steadily declined in favor, and the classes,
once so well filled, are now deserted. It is to be
hoped sincerely that ere long interest in this mag-
nificent breed will be reawakened and that a reso-
lute effort will be made to regain some of their old
time popularity and glory, for as guards and com-
panions they are unsurpassed

In the selection of Mastiff puppies two to four
months old, look for: Great size; massive, short
head; deep, square muzzle; big, well-chiseled skull;
short, deep, round body; straight forelegs and
enormous bone.

The standard of the Old English Mastiff Club is
as follows:

General Character and Symmetry (value lo).
— ^Large, massive, powerful, symmetrical, and well-
knit frame. A combination of grandeur and good
nature, courage and docility.

General Description of Head. — In general out-
line, giving a square appearance when viewed from
any point. Breadth greatly to be desired, and
should be in ratio to length of the whole head and
face as 2 to 3,

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

General Description of Body (Height and
Substance) (value lo). — Massive, broad, deep,
long, powerfully built, on legs wide apart and
squarely set. Muscles sharply defined. Size a
great desideratum, if combined with quality. Height
and substance important if both points are pro-
portionately combined.

Skull (value 12). — Broad between the ears, fore-
head flat, but wrinkled when attention is excited.
Brows (superciliary ridges) slightly raised. Muscles
of the temples and cheeks (temporal and masseter)
well developed. Arch across the skull of a rounded,
flattened curve, with a depression up the center of
the forehead from the medium line between the eyes
to half way up the sagittal suture.

Face or Muzzle (value 18). — Short, broad under
the eyes, and keeping nearly parallel in width to
the end of the nose; truncated, i. e., blunt and cut
off square, thus forming a right angle with the upper
line of the face, of great depth from the point of the
nose to underjaw. Underjaw broad to the end;
canine teeth healthy, powerful, and wide apart; in-
cisors level, or the lower projecting beyond the
upper, but never sufiiciently so as to become visible
when the mouth is closed. Nose broad, with widely-
spreading nostrils when viewed from the front; flat
(not pointed or turned up) in profile. Lips diverg-
ing at obtuse angles with the septum, and slightly
pendulous, so as to show a square profile. Length
of muzzle to whole head and face as i to 3. Cir-
cumference of muzzle (measured midway between

GUARD DOGS

the eyes and nose) to that of the head (measured
before the ears) as 3 to 5.

Ears (value 4). — Small, thin to the touch, wide
apart, set on at the highest points of the sides of
the skull, so as to continue the outline across the
summit, and lying flat and close to the cheeks when
in repose.

Eyes (value 6). — Small, wide apart, divided by
at least the space of two eyes. The stops between
the eyes well marked, but not too abrupt. Color,
hazel-brown, the darker the better, showing no haw.

Chest and Ribs (value 8). — Neck slightly arched,
moderately long, very muscular, and measuring in
circumference about one or two inches less than the
skull before the ears. Chest wide, deep, and well
let down between the forelegs. Ribs arched and
well rounded. False ribs deep and well set back to
the hips. Girth should be one-third more than the
height at the shoulder. Shoulder and arm slightly
sloping, heavy, and muscular.

Forelegs and Feet (value 6). — Legs straight,
strong, and set wide apart; bones very large. El-
bows square. Pasterns upright. Feet large and
round. Toes well arched up. Nails black.

Back, Loins, and Flanks (value 8). — Back and
loins wide and muscular; flat and very wide in a
bitch, slightly arched in a dog. Great depth of flanks.

Hindlegs and Feet (value 10). — Hindquarters
broad, wide, and muscular, with well-developed
second thighs. Hocks bent, wide apart, and quite
squarely set when standing or walking. Feet round.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Tail (value 3). — ^Put on high up, and reaching to
the hocks, or a little below them, wide at its root
and tapering to the end, hanging straight in repose,
but forming a curve, with the end pointing upward
but not over the back when the dog is excited.

Coat Color (value 5). — Coat short and close
lying, but not too fine over the shoulders, neck and
back. Color, apricot or silver fawn or dark fawn-
brindle. In any case muzzle, ears, and nose should
be black, with black around the orbits, and extend-
ing upward between them.

ST. BERNARD

This noble breed of dogs has a strong hold on
popular sentiment, as they are associated with the
saving of life in Alpine snows. The breed probably
originated in Switzerland, certainly the name did,
but the dog that we know to-day is largely the
product of the fanciers of other lands, England in
particular.

For hundreds of years the monks of St. Bernard,
a monastery in the Alps at the apex of the pass of
that name, kept a kennel of large dogs, which ac-
companied the monks who daily patrol the pass to
guide and assist travelers, and they undoubtedly
from time to time detected travelers who had fallen
helpless in the snow and* would have escaped the
human eye. These occurrences served as a basis
upon which some remarkable stories have been
written of dogs patroling the pass alone and making
miraculous and thrilling rescues.

English MasdiF, Ch. Beowul/.

GUARD DOGS

The most celebrated of the Hospice dogs of the
last century was Barry, who is said to have as-
sisted in the rescue of over forty wanderers. This
dog, mounted, is now in the museum at Berne,
Switzerland. He was smooth coated and bears little
resemblance to the modern St. Bernard.

Just what the origin of the Hospice breed was it
is impossible to say, but it is not unlikely that they
sprang from the Pyrenean sheep dog. At least it is
recorded that when the kennels were devastated by
distemper, which occurred several times, and the
dogs which were left showed signs of degenerating
from inbreeding, the monks introduced the blood
of the native Shepherd as well as the Great Dane
and the Newfoundland. Through this intermixture
of blood the stamina of the breed was restored, and
by careful selecting the type was fixed with a reason-
able degree of certainty.

The monks have never been partial to the rough-
coated dogs, as they found that their heavy coat
and feathering soon clogged up with snow and
handicapped their movements. Consequently they
retained the smooth coats for the Hospice kennels
and disposed of the rough coats to Swiss fanciers,
and it was from these fanciers that most of the an-
cestors of the dogs with which the public is now
familiar were obtained. Since then English fanciers
have introduced the blood of the Mastiff and the
Bloodhound, and the result of this intermixture of
breeds is the St. Bernard of to-day, a magnificent
animal that commands attention in any company

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

for his size, beautiful coat, coloring, and majestic
mien.

As a rule the St. Bernard is docile in tempera-
ment and affectionate in disposition.

The monks were very particular about markings,
and type was not so important so long as the dog
was big and strong. White, orange, and black were
the colors looked for, a white blaze running up the
face and joining the collar of the same color that
circled the neck and crossed the shoulders and
chest. The body was patched with orange and the
orange color gradually deepened in color as it ap-
proached the white until it became black at the
fringe. Particularly desired was a spot in the
center of the white on the forehead. The idea of
these markings being the representation of the stole,
the chasuble, and scapular of the vestments of
their order. Present-day fanciers do not attach so
much importance to these markings.

In the selecting of St. Bernard puppies at from
two to four months and after, look for great size
and massiveness; head medium in length, with very
deep, square muzzle, decided stop, massive skull,
but the substance well distributed, not broad like a
Mastiff. The puppy should show signs of growing
tall, and promise enormous bone, short, deep body.
A rich orange is the favorite color, with white
collar, blaze, and dark shadings. The roughs show
more coat as puppies than the smooths.

The standard adopted by the St. Bernard Club
of America is as follows:

GUARD DOGS

General Character. — Powerful, tall (upstand-
ing), figure erect, strong and muscular in every part,
with powerful head and most intelligent expression.
In dogs with a black mask the expression appears
more stern, but never ill-natured.

Head.— Like the whole body, very powerful and
imposing. The massive skull is wide, slightly
arched and sloping at the sides, with a gentle curve
into the very well developed cheek bones. Occiput
only slightly developed. The supra-orbital ridge is
strongly developed and forms nearly a right angle
with the horizontal apex of the head. Between the
two supra-orbital arches and starting at the root of
the muzzle runs a furrow over the whole skull; it is
very deep between the supra-orbital arches and
strongly defined up to the forehead, becoming grad-
ually more shallow toward the base of the occiput.
The lines at the sides, from the outer corner of the
eyes, diverge considerably toward the back of the
head. The skin on the forehead forms somewhat
deep wrinkles, more or less distinct, and converging
from the supra-orbital arch toward the furrow over
the forehead; especially in action they are more
visible, without in the least causing the expression
to become stern. The stop is sudden and rather
steep.

Muzzle. — The muzzle is short, not snipy, and its
depth, taken at the stop, must be greater than the
length. The bridge of the muzzle is not arched, but
straight, and in some dogs slightly broken. From
the stop over the entire bridge of the muzzle to the

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

nose runs a rather wide, well-marked, shallow fur-
row. The flews of the upper jaw are strongly de-
veloped, not cut at right angles, but turning with a
graceful curve into the lower edge, and are slightly
overhanging. The flews of the lower jaw must not
be pendant. The teeth, in proportion to the con-
formation of the head, are moderately strongly de-
veloped. A black roof to the mouth is desirable.

Nose. — Is very substantial and broad, with well-
dilated nostrils, and, like the lips, always black.

EIars. — Are of moderate size, set rather high,
with very strongly developed burr. They stand
slightly outward at the base, then drop with a sharp
bend to the side and lie closely to the head without
a fold. The flap is thin and forms a rounded triangle,
slightly elongated toward the point, the front edge
lying closely to the head, whereas the back edge
may stand away from the head somewhat, especially
when the dog is listening. Ears lightly set on, which
at the base lie close to the head, give it an oval and
too slightly marked appearance, whereas a strongly
developed base gives the skull a squarer, broader,
and much more expressive appearance.

Eyes. — Set more to the front than the sides, are
of moderate size, brown or nut-brown, with a ss^a-
cious and good-natured expression, set moderately
deep. The lower eyelids do not as a rule fit close
to the eyeballs, and form toward the inner corner
an angular wrinkle. Eyelids which are too pendant
and showing conspicuously the lachrymal glands or
a red, thick haw are objectionable.

GUARD DOGS

Neck. — Is set on high, very strong, and in action
is carried erect; otherwise horizontally or slightly
downward. The junction of head and neck is dis-
tinctly marked by a line. Neck very muscular and
rounded at the sides, which makes it appear rather
short. Clearly noticeable dewlaps, but too much
development of this is not desirable.

Shoulders. — Sloping and broad, very muscular
and powerful, withers strongly defined.

Chest. — Well arched, moderately deep, not reach-
ing below the elbows.

Back. — ^Very broad, slightly arched in the loin
only; otherwise perfectly straight as far as the
haunches, sloping gently from the haunches to the
rump, and merging imperceptibly into the root of
the tail.

Hindquarters. — Well developed, thighs very
muscular.

Belly. — Showing distinctly where it joins the
very powerful loins, only slightly drawn up.

Tail. — Starting broad and powerful directly from
the rump; is long, very heavy, ending in a blunt tip.
In repose it hangs straight down, turning gently
upward in the lower third. In a great many speci-
mens the tail is carried with the end turned slightly
to one side (as in all former hospice dogs, according
to old pictures), and therefore hangs down in the
shape of a "P." In action all dogs must carry their
tails more or less turned upward, but not too erect
or over the back; a slight curling over of the tip is
admissible.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Forearms. — ^Very powerful and extraordinarily
muscular.

Forelegs. — Straight, strong.

HiNDLEGs. — Slightly bent on the hocks, and ac-
cording to the presence of single or double dew-
claws, the feet turn outward more or less, which,
however, must not be understood to mean cow-
hocked.

Feet. — Broad, with strong toes moderately well
closed up, and knuckles rather high. The single or
double dewclaws set on low, so as to be almost on a
level with the pad of the foot, give a greater surface
and prevents the dog from breaking easily through
the snow. There are dogs which have on their hind
feet a regularly developed fifth toe (thumbs). The
so-called dewclaws (wolf-sklaun) which sometimes
occur on the hindlegs are imperfectly developed
toes; they are of no use to the dog and are not taken
into consideration in judging.

Coat. — Is very dense, broken haired (stock haar-
ing), lying smooth (flat), tough, without feeling
rough to the touch. Thighs slightly bushy. The
tail at the root is covered with longer and more
dense hair, which gradually becomes shorter toward
the tip. The tail is bushy, but not forming a flag.

Color and Markings. — White, and orange and
white; orange in all its various shades, white with
light to dark barred brindle patches, or these colors
with white markings. The colors orange or light
brindle and dark are of entirely equal value. The
following markings are absolutely necessary: White

GUARD DOGS

chest, feet and tip of tail, noseband (white muzzle);
white spot on nape and a blaze are very desirable.
Never self-covered or without white. Faulty are all
other colors except black shadings on the face and
ears.

Height. — ^At shoulder of the dog (measured with
the hound measure) ought to be thirty-nine inches;
of the bitch, thirty-seven inches. The bitches are
throughout of a more delicate and finer build.

All variations not in accordance with these points
are faulty.

THE ROUGH-COATED ST. BERNARD

The long-haired is perfectly similar, with the ex-
ception of the coat, which is not "stock haaring"
(broken haired), but moderately long, flat or slightly
wavy, but which ought never to be either rolled or
curly, neither ought it to be shaggy. On the back,
especially from the region of the haunches to the
rump, the hair is generally more wavy. This is,
however, also slightly noticeable in the short-
haired dogs, even in those from the hospice.

The tail is bushy, well covered with moderately
long hair. Rolled or locky hair on the tail is not
desirable. A tail with parted hair or feathered is
faulty. Face and ears are covered with short, soft
hair. Longer silky hair is allowable at the base of
the ears; in fact, this is nearly always present.
Forelegs only slightly feathered. Thighs bushy.

Faults are all such formations as indicate a New-
foundland cross, such as swayback, disproportion-
's

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

ately long backs, hocks too much bent, and spaces
between the toes, with upward growing hair.

No scale of points has been adopted.

Color and Markings. — The following white
markings are absolutely necessary: Noseband (white
muzzle) blaze, chest, legs, and tip of tail. A color
or a spot on the nape is very desirable.

THE NEWFOUNDLAND

This magnificent breed of dogs shares with the
St. Bernard the honor of being a life-saving breed.
The fact that the postage stamp of the Island of
Newfoundland bears their portrait indicates the re-
gard in which they are held in their native land.
Abroad, they have been the subjects of painters and
writers, and more than one has received the medal
of the Royal Humane Society.

While there is no exact information as to how the
breed originated, it is probable that early settlers
from Europe carried with them dogs of large size.
The island, on account of its fishermen, has always
been in close communication with other countries,
and these dogs undoubtedly were reinforced from
time to time with dogs brought out by sea captains
or fishermen, and from this parent stock the New-
foundland was evolved.

The hazardous calling of the fishing banks natu-
rally developed a race of men combining strength,
vigor, and the coolest of courage. The same con-
ditions that develop men develop their dogs. In
their native home the Newfoundlands share all the

GUARD DOGS

duties and dangers of their owners. They assist in
hauling in the nets. They drag the sledges across
the snow in the depths of winter, and when the men
are away, as they frequently are for weeks, it is left
to the dogs to guard the homes and watch over the
women and children. Newfoundlands are as much
at home in the water as on land, and Nature
has provided them a coat that protects them against
the exigencies of their stern climate.

No dog has been the subject of more popular
sentiment than the Newfoundland. The greatest
portrait artists have portrayed them, poets have
sung of them, and writers in all languages have re-
lated their heroic virtues. It is generally agreed
that the Newfoundland breed are worthy of the
honors and distinctions that have been heaped upon
them. They are unsurpassed in strength, courage,
and intelligence. Their great docility recommends
them as companions and guards. The ready forti-
tude with which they da$h to the assistance of per-
sons in distress, particularly in danger of drowning, has
gained them universal recognition as the friendsof man.

While the native home of these dogs lies at our
doors, they have never become popular in this
country. Large, bJ; ck dogs of unknown breeding
are sometimes shown as Newfoundlands, and occa-
sionally a good one appears, but they are so seldom
met with that but few shows provide classes for
them. In England the breed is on a stronger basis.
A club looks after their interest and a standard has
been provided for them. The description and points

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

laid down are all from the standpoint that the New-
foundland dog is an aquatic dog without an equal.

In choosing Newfoundland puppies at from two
to four months old, look for great size of typical,
moderately long head, muzzle free from lippiness,
but not snipy; dark eyes, not much stop; medium
ears, set close to side of head; big, short body;
rather short legs with enormous bone; coat dense
and almost like fur. In the white-and-blacks the
color should be equally distributed.

The following is the British Newfoundland Club's
standard description and scale of points:

Symmetry and General Appearance. — The dog
should impress the eye with strength and great
activity. He should move freely on his legs, with
the body swung loosely between them, so that a
slight roll in gait should not be objectionable; but
at the same time a weak or hollow back, slackness
of the loins, or cowhocks should be a decided fault.

Head. — Should be broad and massive, flat on the
skull, the occipital bone well developed; there should
be no decided stop, and the muzzle should be short,
clean cut, rather square in shape, and covered with
short, fine hair.

Coat. — Should be flat and dense, of a coarseish
texture and oily nature, and capable of resisting the
water. If brushed the wrong way it should fall back
into its place naturally.

Body. — Should be well ribbed-up, with a broad
back. A neck strong, well set onto the shoulders
and back, and strong, muscular loins.

GUARD DOGS

Forelegs. — Should be perfectly straight, well
covered with muscle, elbows in but well let down,
and feathered all down.

Hindquarters and Legs. — Should be very strong;
the legs should have great freedom of action, and a
little feather. Slackness of loins and cowhocks are
a great defect; dewclaws are objectionable, and
should be removed.

Chest. — Should be deep and fairly broad, and
well covered with hair, but not to such an extent
as to form a frill.

Bone. — Massive throughout, but not to give a
heavy, inactive appearance.

Feet. — Should be large and well shaped. Splayed
or turned out feet are objectionable.

Tail. — Should be of moderate length, reaching
down a little below the hocks; it should be of fair
thickness and well covered with long hair, but not
to form a flag. When the dog is standing still and
not excited it should hang downwards, with a slight
curve at the end; but when the dog is in motion it
should be carried a trifle up, and when he is excited,
straight out, with a slight curve at the end. Tails
with a kink in them, or curled over the back, are
very objectionable.

Ears. — Should be small, set well back, square
with the skull, lie close to the head, and covered
with short hair, and no fringe.

Eyes. — Should be small, of a dark brown color,
rather deeply set, but not showing any haw, and
they should be rather widely apart.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Color. — ^Jet black. A slight tinge of bronze or a
splash of white on chest and toes is not objec-
tionable.

Height and Weight. — Size and weight are very
desirable, so long as symmetry is maintained. A
fair average height at the shoulders is 27 inches for
a dog and 25 inches for a bitch, and a fair average
weight is respectively: Dogs, 140 pounds to 150
pounds; bitches, no pounds to 120 pounds.

Other Than Black. — Should in all respects fol-
low the black except in color, which may be almost
any, as long as it disqualifies for the black class, but
the colors most to be encouraged are black-and-
white and bronze. Beauty in markings to be taken
greatly into consideration.

Dogs that have been entered in black classes at
shows held under kennel club rules where classes
are provided for dogs other than black shall not be
qualified to compete in other than black classes in
future.

Black dogs that have only white toes and white
breasts and white tip to tail are to be exhibited in
the classes provided for black.

Value of Points. — Shape of skull, 8; ears, 10;
eyes, 8; muzzle, 8; neck, 4; chest, 6; shoulders, 4;
loin and back, 12; hindquarters and tail, lO; legs
and feet, 10; coat, 12; size, height, and general
appearance, 8; total, 100.

GUARD DOGS

THE GREAT DANE

The Great Dane, or Boarhound, as it was for-
merly called, is of ancient type^ and there are coins
which were made before the Christian era that bear
an impression of a large, long-headed, powerful dog
of the general proportions and appearance of the
present Great Dane.

In Germany the ears of these dogs are still cropped,
presumably to give them what is considered a more
alert and striking appearance, but this practice has
been abolished in most other countries.

In earlier times the breed was used as a protector
of property and person, as well as a hunter. A
stronger type of dog was designated the Ulmer
Mastiff.

With the introduction of dog shows the breed re-
ceived greater attention in its native country, where
a club has been established for the purpose of pro-
moting and encouraging its propagation upon lines
which the club has laid down according to its con-
ception of what the correct type and features should
be.

The disposition of the Great Dane, like that of
all dogs, naturally is docile, although dogs vary
somewhat in their temperaments. This docility
should be fostered when young, at which time
character in the dog, as in the youth, is to a great
extent formed. If a Great Dane is spoiled in his
upbringing he is, on account of his great size and
power, more than ordinarily dangerous, which fact
» 29

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

emphasizes the necessity for great care being ex-
ercised in his rearing and absolute control being
obtained over the animal.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Great Dane puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: Great size; a long, telescopic
head, almost free from stop; deep, square muzzle;
small, deep-set eye; narrow skull, small ears, short
body, deep chest, well-sprung ribs, straight forelegs,
and great bone.

The standard of the Great Dane as approved by
the Great Dane Club of America is as follows:

General Appearance. — The Great Dane (Deut-
sche Dogge) combines in his whole appearance size,
strength, and refinement as hardly any other breed.
He has not the heavy and clumsy look of the MastiiF,
nor the lightness of the Greyhound, but holds about
the middle relation between these extremes. Im-
mense size, with strong, albeit elegant conformation;
high stepping and proud bearing; head and neck
high; tail, when quiet, hanging down; when excited,
straight or only slightly raised above back.

Head. — Rather long, more high and pressed in
on the sides than broad and flat appearing; seen
from the side shows decided stop; line of forehead
and nose must be parallel with each other; viewed
from the front the forehead should not appear
much broader than the strong, developed muzzle;
cheeks very little developed. The head should
from all sides appear squarish and clean in all its
lines; nose large, bridge straight or only slightly

GUARD DOGS

arched; lips blunt, forming a right angle with line
of head, and with medium yet distinct flews; jaws
even, eyes medium large, round, and with sharp
expression; brows well developed; ears high set on,
moderately wide between, and standing erect, hav-
ing a pointed crop.

Neck and Shoulders. — Neck long, strong, and
slightly arched, with well-defined line where con-
necting with head; from shoulder to head gradually
growing finer; no dewlap; shoulder long and sloping.

Chest. — Moderately broad, ribs fairly sprung,
reaching far back, deep in front; should go almost
down to elbow joint.

Body. — Back moderately long; loin slightly arched,
croup short, slightly dropping, and running in fine
lines to stern; seen from above, the broad back con-
nects well with the fairly sprung ribs; thighs should
be strongly developed and hams well muscled up.
Under line of body a graceful curve, well tucked
up in flank.

Tail. — Medium length, reaching just to the
hock, strong at root, end well tapered, but should
never, even under excitement, be carried high over
the back or curled.

Forelegs. — Elbow well down at right angle to
shoulder blades, and neither turned in nor out;
forearm well muscled; the whole leg strong, and,
seen in front, appears, on account of muscle develop-
ment, slightly bent; seen from the side, perfectly
straight from elbow to pastern.

Hindquarters. — Long, well muscled, and well

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

let down; fairly bent; seen from behind^ stifle must
appear entirely straight, neither in nor out.

Feet. — Catfoot; neither turned in nor out; well
arched and closed toes; nails strong and curved;
dewclaws not desired.

Coat. — Short, dense, and smooth, slightly longer
on underside of tail.

Color. — A. Brindle; body color from the lightest
fawn to the richest golden tan; always with black,
or at least dark stripes. B. Whole-colored,
fawn in the different shades, whether entirely one
color or darker shadings of the same on muzzle,
eyebrows, and back; also all black and all white.
The nose in brindle or whole-colored dogs (except
all whites) always black. Eyes and toenails dark.
White markings not desirable. C. Spotted (Har-
lequin), body color white, with irregularly-formed
but regularly-distributed spots of black; other colors,
except markings as the above, are faulty. Harle-
quins or all white dogs have sometimes wall eyes,
flesh-colored or spotted nose and white nails, which
are permissible in these colors.

Size. — ^The height of dogs should not be under
30 inches; bitches 28 inches or more. Length should
not exceed height at shoulders.

Value of Points. — General appearance and type,
12; head, 18; neck, 8; chest and brisket, 5; back and
loins, 7; legs and feet, 9; bones and muscle, 6; croup,
4; tail, 7; movement, 8; height, 6; color and mark-
ings, 6; condition and coat, 4. Total, 100.

COURSING HOUNDS

THE SCOTTISH DEERHOUND

This magnificent breed of dogs has occupied a
prominent place in the romantic history of Scotland,
and looks well the part they have played as companion
to Highland Chieftains. They have a most noble
presence, and are at once docile, sagacious, and
undeniably courageous. As companions and guards
they are unsurpassed, for they never forget their
friends, and their attachment for their owners is a
blind devotion that will lead them to fight for their
protection with the utmost desperation.

In the field the Deerhound not only has a very
keen nose, but can run down the deer, jackrabbit,
coyote, or wolf, and can kill them alone and un-
aided. He will tree a mountain lion or a black bear,
and would not hesitate to fight a grizzly if in pro-
tection of his master. No dog combines more
beauty, strength, and utility than these aristocrats
of the canine world.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Deerhound puppies at from two to four months old
and after, are: A long, level head, dark eye, long
neck, well-placed shoulders, great bone, deep chest,
well-sprung ribs, big hindquarters, short body.

The Scottish Deerhound standard and description
is as follows:

Head. — The head should be broadest at the ears,

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

ing slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle taper-
lore decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should
)inted, but the teeth and lips level. The head
d be long, the skull flat rather than round, with
y slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing ap-
:hing a stop. The skull should be coated with
rately long hair, which is softer than the rest
e coat. The nose should be black (though in
blue-fawns the color is blue), and slightly
ine. In the lighter colored dogs a black muzzle
iferred. There should be a good mustache of
r silky hair, and a fair beard.
Rs. — ^The ears should be set on high, and, in
e, folded back like the Greyhound's, though
I above the head in excitement without losing
old, and even in some cases semi-erect. A
ear is bad. A big, thick ear, hanging flat to
lead or heavily coated with long nair is the
of faults. The ear should be soft, glossy, and
. mouse's coat to the touch, and the smaller it
\ better. It should have no long coat or long
:, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the
of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general
the ears should be black or dark-colored.
CK AND Shoulders. — ^The neck should be
-that is, of the length that befits the Grey-
1 character of the dog. An over long neck is
lecessary nor desirable, for the dog is not re-
1 to stoop to his work like a Greyhound, and
st be remembered that the mane, which every
specimen should have, detracts from the ap-

COURSING HOUNDS

parent length of neck. Moreover, a Deerhound
requires a very strong neck to hold a stag. The
nape of the neck should be very prominent where
the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-
cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders
should be well sloped, the blades well back, and not
too much width between them. Loaded and straight
shoulders are very bad faults.

Stern. — Stem should be tolerably long, tapering,
and reaching to within i}4 inches of the ground
and about iK inches below the hocks. When the
dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down or
curved. When in motion it should be curved, when
excited in no case to be lifted out of the line of the
back. It should be well covered with hair, on the
inside thick and wiry; underside longer, and toward
the end a slight fringe not objectionable. A curl
or ring tail very undesirable.

Eyes. — ^The eyes should be dark; generally they
are dark brown or hazel. A very light eye is not
liked. The eye is moderately full, with a soft look
in repose, but a keen, far-away look when the dog
is aroused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.

Body. — The body -and general formation is that
of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest
deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-
sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the
tail. A straight back is not desirable, this forma-
tion being unsuitable for going uphill, and very
unsightly.

Legs and Feet. — ^The legs should be broad and

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desir-
able. Forelegs, of course, as straight as possible.
Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes.
The hindquarters drooping and as broad and power-
ful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The
hindlegs should be well bent at the stifle, with great
length from the hip to the hock, which should be
broad and flat. Cow hocks, weak pasterns, straight
stifles, and splay feet very bad faults.

Coat. — The hair on the body, neck, and quarters
should be harsh and wiry, and about three or four
inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is
much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe
on the inside of the fore and hind legs, but nothing
approaching "the feather" of a Collie. The Deer-
hound should be a shaggy dog, but not overcoated.
A woolly coat is bad. Some good strains have a
slight mixture of silky coat with the hard, which is
preferable to a woolly coat, but the proper coat is a
thick, close-lying, ragged coat, harsh or crisp to the
touch.

Color. — Color is much a matter of fancy. But
there is no manner of doubt that the dark-blue-grey
is the most preferred. Next Qome the darker and
lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally
preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, es-
pecially with black points — /. ^., ears and muzzles —
are also in equal estimation, this being the color of
the oldest known strains, the McNeil and the
Chesthill Menzies. White is condemned by all the
old authorities, but a white chest and white toes,

COURSING HOUNDS

occurring as they do in a great many of the darkest-
colored dogs, are not so greatly objected to, but the
less the better, as the Deerhound is a self-colored
dog. A white blaze on the head or a white collar
should entirely disqualify. In other cases, though
passable, yet an attempt should be made to get rid
of white markings. The less white the better, but
a slight white tip to the stern occurs in the best
strains.

Height of Dogs. — From 28 inches to 30 inches,
or even more if there be symmetry without coarse-
ness, which is rare.

Height of Bitches. — From 26 inches upwards.
There can be no objection to a bitch being large,
unless too coarse, as even at her greatest height she
does not approach that of the dog, and therefore
could not have been too big for work, as over-big
dogs are. Besides, a big bitch is good for breeding
and keeping up the size.

Weight. — From 85 pounds to 105 pounds in dogs;
from 65 pounds to 80 pounds in bitches.

THE IRISH WOLFHOUND

It is clearly attested both by history and tradi-
tion that there existed in Ireland in early times a
large, rugged hound of Greyhound form, used to
hunt the Irish elk, the wolf, the red deer, and the
fox. This dog was known to the Romans, who car-
ried them back after their invasion of the island,
and there are records of them being presented to
Norwegian kings. In course of time the wolves dis-

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

appeared, the elk became extinct, and with them
all but passed away a noble breed of dogs. In fact,
it has been claimed that the real Irish Wolfhound
became extinct about one hundred years ago. This
was vigorously denied by others, who, while they
admitted that the breed had deteriorated, asserted
that there was still existent enough of the old blood
to restore the breed to a resemblance of its original
type. The leader in this movement was Captain
Graham, who for a score of years devoted himself to
the resuscitation of the breed with conspicuous
success.

There have been many theories advanced as to
the origin of the Irish Wolfhound, but the opinion
of Captain Graham is probably nearest the truth,
for it is his belief that the Irish Hound that was
kept to hunt wolves never became extinct, but is
now repeated in the Scottish Deerhound, only altered
a little in size and strength to suit the easier work
required of it, that of hunting the deer. The old
Irish Wolfhound was called upon to hunt the wolf
and the Irish elk, an immense animal standing six
feet high at the shoulder, with a spread of antlers
of ten or twelve feet, and it required a much more
powerful hound to cope with these animals than the
deer which are now existent.

One thing is certain: the chief factor in the re-
suscitation of the Irish Wolfhound has been the
Scottish Deerhound. In building up the breed
Captain Graham secured bitches from three strains,
which it was believed were direct and pure de-

COURSING HOUNDS

scendants of the old line, although they were not
nearly as large as those mentioned in early writings.
These were crossed on the Scottish Deerhound and
the Great Dane. Later on Borzoi blood was in-
troduced through a dog named Koratai. These
matings and the mixing of the blood -of these breeds
resulted in progeny with both size and bone, but
unshapely in form. By careful elimination and se-
lection they were eventually graded up to a fixity
of type, and for the past thirty-five years they have
been among the most attractive dogs seen at shows.

There is naturally a great deal of similarity be-
tween the Scottish Deerhound and the Irish Wolf-
hound, for much of the same blood is in their veins.
The Irish dog is larger, more powerful, and less
elegant in outline. His coat is also harder in texture
and his jaw more powerful.

As in the case of most big dogs, the great diffi-
culty in breeding the Irish Wolfhound is to insure
straight forelegs and sound hindquarters. Of course,
a great deal depends upon the rearing of the dogs
in this particular connection. A puppy may be
found sound and straight in limb and become in-
curably defective by his faulty bringing up. This is
the tendency, and such faults as cow hocks (which
are very prevalent in the breed), crooked forelegs,
or splay feet, once estabfished become hereditary,
and should be carefully avoided. A little white on
the chest is perfectly immaterial, and color is but
of secondary importance, the favorite color being
grizzle or wheaten.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The chief points to look for in the selection of
frish Wolfhound puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: A long, level head, great strength
of muzzle, big nostrils, enormous bone, big body,
deep chest, big hindquarters, moderately short body.

The Irish ^plfhound's standard description is as
follows:

General Appearance. — ^The Irish Wolfhound
should not be quite so heavy or massive as the Great
Dane, but more so than the Deerhound, which in
general type he should otherwise resemble. Of
great size and commanding appearance, very mus-
cular, strongly though gracefully built, movements
easy and active; head and neck carried high; the
tail carried with an upward sweep with a slight
curve toward the extremity.

The Minimum Height and Weight of dogs
should be 31 inches and 120 pounds; of bitches,
28 inches and 90 pounds. Anything below this
should be debarred from competition. Great size,
including height at shoulder and proportionate
length of body, is the desideratum to be aimed at,
and it is desired to firmly establish a race that shall
average from 32 inches to 34 inches in dogs, showing
the requisite power, activity, courage, and sym-
metry.

Head. — Long, the frontal bones of the forehead
very slightly raised and very little indentation be-
tween the eyes. Skull not too broad. Muzzle long
and moderately pointed. Ears small and Greyhound-
like in carriage.

COURSING HOUNDS

Neck. — Rather long, very strong and muscular,
well arched, without dewlap, or loose skin about the
throat.

Chest. — ^Very deep. Breast wide.

Back. — Rather long than short. Loins arched.

Tail. — Long and slightly curved, of moderate
thickness, and well covered with hair.

Belly. — Well drawn up.

FoREQUARTERS. — Shouldcrs muscular, giving
breadth of chest, set sloping. Elbows well under,
neither turned inwards nor outwards.

Leg. — Forearm muscular, and the whole leg
strong and quite straight.

Hindquarters. — Muscular thighs and second
thigh long and strong as in the Greyhound, and
hocks well let down and turning neither in nor out.

Feet. — Moderately large and round, neither
turned inwards nor outwards. Toes well arched
and closed. Nails very strong and curved.

Hair. — Rough and hard on body, legs, and head;
especially wiry and long over eyes and underjaw.

Color and Markings. — ^The recognized colors
are grey, brindle, red, black, pure white, fawn, or
any color that appears in the Deerhound. [Captain
Graham states that he has seen several perfectly
black-and-tan Deerhounds.]

Faults. — Too light or heavy a head, too highly
arched frontal bone, large ears and hanging flat to
the face; short' neck; full dewlap; too narrow or
too broad a chest; sunken or hollow or quite straight
back; bent forelegs; overbent fetlocks; twisted feet;

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

spreading toes; too curly a tail; weak hindquarters
and a general want of muscle; too short in body.

THE RUSSIAN WOLFHOUND

In Russia, the land of their birth, these hand-
some, stately, high-bred dogs are known as Borzoi
or Psovoi, and are used for coursing and wolf hunt-
ing. They are carefully trained to run up alongside
of a fleeing wolf, collar him by the neck just under
the ear, and never loose their hold, no matter how
often they may roll over together, until the hunter
comes up and either muzzles or dispatches the
victim.

When slipped in pairs, which is the usual pro-
cedure, the art comes in in having them so evenly
matched in speed that they can range up on either
side of the wolf simultaneously, pin him by the neck,
and hold him safely without injury to themselves.

In the early trials that these dogs were given on
western wolves they did not perform as satisfactorily
as had been expected of them, probably due to the
fact that they lacked experience and training.

Their aristocratic appearance is very much in
their favor as companions. Some question has been
raised as to their disposition, and there is no dis-
puting that many of them are snappy, quarrelsome,
and uncertain, while others are sweet and lovable
as it is only possible for a dog to be. It may be
safely said that all depends upon the way they have
been raised.

COURSING HOUNDS

The points to look for in Borzoi puppies at
from two to four months old and after, are: A
phenomenally long head, rather Roman in shape of
muzzle, very well filled up under the eyes, small eyes,
set in obliquely; very narrow skull, with occipital
bone well developed; powerful neck; very narrow
shoulders; long, straight forelegs; very deep chest;
loin arched; graceful outline.

The following is the Borzoi Club's standard of
points, the height at shoulder being fixed at a very
low minimum :

Head. — long and lean. The skull flat and nar-
row; stop not perceptible, and muzzle long and
tapering. The head from the forehead to the tip of
the nose should be so fine that the shape and direc-
tion of the' bones and principal veins can be seen
clearly, and in profile should appear rather Roman-
nosed. Bitches should be even narrower in head
than dogs. Eyes dark, expressive, almond-shaped,
and not too far apart. Ears, like those of a Grey-
hound, small, thin, and placed well back on the head,
with the tips, when thrown back, almost touching
behind the occiput.

Neck. — The head should be carried somewhat
low, with the neck continuing the line of the back.

Shoulders. — Clean and sloping well back.

Chest. — Deep and somewhat narrow.

Back. — Rather bony and free from any cavity
in the spinal column, the arch in the back being
more marked in the dog than in the bitch.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Loins. — Broad and very powerful, with plenty
of muscular development.

Thighs. — Long and well developed, with good
second thigh.

Ribs. — Slightly sprung at the angle; deep, reach-
ing to the elbow and even lower.

Forelegs. — ^Lean and straight. Seen from the
front, they should be narrow, and from the side,
broad at the shoulders and narrowing gradually
down to the foot, the bone appearing flat and not
round as in the Foxhound.

HiNDLEGS. — ^Just a trifle under the body when
standing still; not straight, and the stifle slightly
bent.

Muscles. — ^Well distributed and highly developed.

Pasterns. — Strong.

Feet. — Like those of the Deerhound, rather long.
The toes close together and well arched.

Coat. — Long, silky (not woolly), either flat,
wavy, or rather curly. On the head, ears, and front
legs it should be short and smooth. On the neck
the frill should be profuse and rather curly. On
the chest and rest of body, the tail, and hind-
quarters, it should be long. The forelegs should be
well feathered.

Tail. — Long, well feathered, and not gaily car-
ried.

Height. — At shoulder of dogs, from 28 inches
upward; of bitches, from 26 inches upward.

Faults. — Head short or thick. Too much stop.
Parti-colored nose. Eyes too wide apart. Heavy

COURSING HOUNDS

ears. Heavy shoulders. Wide chest. "Barrel"
ribbed. Dewclaws. Elbows turned out, wide be-
hind.

THE GREYHOUND

The Greyhound is probably the oldest member of
his race. From time immemorial they have been
popular as companions at home and in the hunting
field. As a result of the time and care that have
been spent upon them, they are the most highly de-
veloped domestic animal in existence.

In elegance of form, dignity, and cleanliness
Greyhounds are worthy of their long descent. They
are much more affectionate and intelligent than is
usually believed, and in point of speed, courage,
fortitude, endurance, and sagacity, they are the
equals of any dog that lives. Well-bred Greyhounds
know no fear, turn from no game animal on which
they are sighted, no matter how large or ferocious,
pursue with the speed of the wind, seize the instant
they come up with the game, and stay in the fight
until they or the quarry are dead.

The general supposition that Greyhounds are
devoid of the power of scent is a mistake, as can be
attested by anyone who has ever hunted them in the
West on large game. The uses to which they are
put do not require keen olfactory organs; conse-
quently their sense of smell has deteriorated some-
what from lack of use, but it is far from being
entirely gone

' 45

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Coursers have no regular standard of size and
weight, but the medium sized dog of about sixty-
five to seventy pounds' weight is usually the most
useful.

With them the head is a part of the dog's anatomy
of little or no account, since he has no particular use
for it except to kill with his jaws. For this purpose
the longer and stronger the jaws are the better.
Ears again count for nothing, but a small eye is ob-
jectionable, since it is with his eyes that the Grey-
hound sights the hare, and a rather large eye, set
in not too close, enables him the better to see puss's
many turns. A long and muscular neck is a great
essential, set well into obliquely placed shoulders.

The forelegs should be as straight as gun barrels,
but the elbows should not be turned in, which pre-
vents a dog from getting down to his work. Rather
they should be turned out a trifle. The chest
should be deep, the ribs gradually widening as they
reach their terminus. The loins should be slightly
arched, very broad and thick, like two big Atlantic
cables traversing the dog's back, and merging into
broad and big hindquarters, the muscles of which
should resemble two big, round loaves of bread
stuck on the dog. The thighs should be wide and
very muscular, both first and second thighs, the
stifles well bent and the hocks well let down, being
formed so as to appear from behind perfectly par-
allel and free from the slightest taint of what is
called "cow-hocks."

Flat or long loins are very objectionable, by which

COURSING HOUNDS

the dog loses control over his hindquarters. The
dog should be well "cut-up" under his loins in order
that he may have greater freedom for the working
of his hind limbs. Briefly, the dog should be com-
paratively short-coupled on the top, but should,
when standing, cover a lot of ground below, and he
should be neither too long on the leg nor too short.

Color is an altogether immaterial point; a good
Greyhound, like a good horse, cannot be a bad color.
The tail should be long and strong, since it is to the
dog what the rudder is to the ship.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Greyhound puppies at from two to four months old
and after, are: A long neck, well-placed shoulders,
great bone, deep chest, well sprung ribs, and big
hindquarters.

The following standard and scale of points is
commonly used by bench-show judges, but, as
previously stated, is given little consideration by
practical coursing men:

Head. — The head of the Greyhound should be
long, lean, and tapering; narrow across the skull as
compared 'With some breeds, but should have suffi-
cient width to allow for brain room. The eyes
should be full, clear, and bright; the ears should be
small and folded back close to the head; the jaws
strong and level, not pig-jawed; the teeth strong
and sound, so as to be able to hold the hare. The
furrow between the eyes should be slightly marked,
with little or no stop; the eyebrows should not be
prominent.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Neck. — The neck should be long, lean, and
arched, so as to enable the dog to catch up the hare
without stooping. It should be set on to the head
cleanly, and should widen gradually as it goes into
the shoulders.

Coat and Color. — The coat should be short,
smooth, and glossy. The color is of slight im-
portance.

Loin, Back Ribs, and Hindquarters. — ^Therc
should be good length from shoulders to back ribs,
which should be well-sprung to afford good attach-
ment for the muscles of the loins. A slight arch is
permissible, but not to such an extent as to form a
roach or wheel-back. The hindquarters should be
powerful and muscular and show great length by
reason of well-bent stifles.

Shoulders and Forelegs. — Shoulders should be
oblique. Forearm of good length, in line with the
shoulders. Forelegs should be perfectly straight.
The leg should be twice as long from the fetlock
joint or knee as from the latter to the ground.

Chest. — Should be deep, but not so deep as
to interfere with the irregularities of the ground
when running at full speed. It should not be too
wide nor. too narrow; a happy medium.

Feet. — ^The Greyhound may have either the cat-
foot or the hare-foot, provided the toes are well
together.

Tail. — Fine, free from fringe, and nicely curved
toward the end.

Scale of Points. — Head, lo; neck, lO; chest and

American Wolfhound, Old BiU.
Englith Greyhound, Fascmadng Witch.

COURSING HOUNDS

forequarters, 20; loin and back ribs, 15; hind^
quarters, 20; feet, 15; tail, 5; color and coat, 5.
Total, ICO.

THE WHIPPET

This graceful breed is nothing more or less than
a miniature Greyhound, and was originally known
as a snap dog by the colliers and working men in
the north of England, who originated the breed,
and used them for rabbit coursing. In later years
these dogs have been taught straight running.
That is, they are held in leash at a given mark by
an attendant while the owner or some other person
standing at the other end of the track shakes a
handkerchief at the dogs and encourages them to
race for it. There is an official starter, and the dogs
are liberated at the^shot of a pistol and immediately
make a dash, straining every nerve to get at the
handkerchief. The usual course is two hundred
yards, and the dogs are handicapped according to
weight or previous performances.

The origin of the Whippet was probably ob-
tained by a cross between the small Greyhound and
the white English Terrier. They are keen little
sportsmen, easily kept in condition, and of a most
companionable disposition.

In selecting a Whippet puppy at from two to
four months old, the points to look for are almost
identical with those of the Greyhound, of which it
is a miniature, except that less bone is required and
probably a little more arch of loin, both of which

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

variations are calculated to give the Whippet a
little more speed, if less "staying" power, speed
only being the great desideratum in the Whippet.

The points of the Whippet may be briefly summed
up by saying he should be an exact duplicate in
miniature of the Greyhound.

The following is the description of the Whippet,
as formulated by the Whippet Club:

Head. — Long and lean, rather wide between the
eyes, and flat at the top; the jaw powerful, yet
clearly cut; teeth level and white.

Eyes. — Bright and fiery.

£ars. — Small, fine in texture, and rose shape.

Neck. — Long and muscular, elegantly arched, and
free from throatiness.

Shoulders. — Oblique and muscular.

Chest. — Deep and capacious.

Back. — Broad and square, rather long, and
slightly arched over loin, which should be strong
and powerful.

Forelegs. — Rather long, well set under dog, pos-
sessing fair amount of bone.

Hindquarters. — Strong and broad across, stifles
well bent, thighs broad and muscular, hocks well
let down.

Feet. — Round, well split up, with strong soles.

Tail. — ^Long, tapering, and nicely carried.

Coat. — Fine and close.

Color. — Black, red, white, brindle, fawn, blue,
and the various mixtures of each.

Weight. — 20 pounds.

SCENTING HOUNDS

THE BLOODHOUND

This is one of the oldest as well as one of the least
understood of all breeds of dogs. The most extrav-
agant tales are related and stories written about
them. The name suggests a ferocious animal,
whereas they are of the most kindly nature, entirely
lacking in all of the qualities which their name
implies. They are the gentlest of companions, and
if of pure breeding far less dangerous than any of
the other big breeds. In the days of the bow and
arrow the Bloodhound was trained to hunt the stag,
and was expected to track the wounded deer by the
blood that dropped from the wounds of the arrow,
all of which has been done away with for many
years.

A great deal has been written about hunting
slaves in southern States in pre-war times. As a
matter of fact the dogs that were used to trail the
runaways were small foxhounds and not blood-
hounds. The stories told of Bloodhounds following
the scent of a man through crowded streets are also
gross exaggerations. It is impossible for them to do
so. Therefore they are of little or no use to the
police authorities in detecting criminals in crowded
cities. In the country, however. Bloodhounds
can be used to capture criminals. They will make
out a scent that is several hours old and follow it

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

accurately. Repeated trials, however, indicate that
it is impossible for them to carry these trails where
they have been crossed by cattle, sheep, or horses.

The Bloodhound has been crossed on nearly all
of the sporting breeds, and doing so improves their
voices as well as their power of scent.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Bloodhound puppies at from two to four months
old, and even afterward, are: Great length of head,
narrowness of skull, great depth and squareness of
foreface, big nostrils, long ears set low, great bone,
and short back.

The following description of the Bloodhound has
been adopted by the Association of Bloodhound
Breeders :

General Character. — The Bloodhound pos-
sesses in a most marked degree every point and
characteristic of those dogs which hunt together by
scent (Sagaces). He is very powerful, and stands
over more ground than is usual with hounds of other
breeds. The skin is thin to the touch and extremely
loose, this being more especially noticeable about
the head and neck, where it hangs in deep folds.

Height. — ^The mean average height of adult dogs
is 26 inches, and of adult bitches 24 inches. Dogs
usually vary from 25 inches to 2^ inches, and
bitches from 23 inches to 25 inches; but in either
case the greater height is to be preferred, provided
that character and quality are also combined.

Weight. — The mean average weight of aduit
dogs in fair condition is 90 pounds, and of adult

SCENTING HOUNDS

bitches 80 pounds. Dogs attain the weight of no
pounds, bitches 100 pounds. The greater weights are
to be preferred, provided (as in the case of height)
that quality and proportions are also combined.

Expression. — ^The expression is noble and digni-
fied, and characterized by solemnity, wisdom, and
power.

Temperament. — In temperament he is extremely
affectionate, neither quarrelsome with companions
nor with other dogs. His nature is somewhat shy
and equally sensitive to kindness or correction by
his master.

Head. — ^The head is narrow in proportion to its
length, and long in proportion to the body, tapering
but slightly from the temples to the end of the
muzzle, thus (when viewed from above and in front)
having the appearance of being flattened at the
sides, and of being nearly equal in width throughout
its entire length. In profile the upper outline of the
skull is nearly in the same plane as that of the fore-
face. The length from end of nose to stop (midway
between the eyes) should be not less than that from
stop to back of occipital protuberance (peak). The
entire length of head from the posterior part of the
occipital protuberance to the end of muzzle should
be 1 2 inches or more in dogs, and 1 1 inches or more
in bitches.

Skull. — ^The skull is long and narrow, with the
occipital peak very pronounced. The brows are
not prominent, although, owing to the deep-set
eyes, they may have that appearance.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

FoREFACE. — ^The foreface is long, deep, and of
even width throughout, with square outline when
seen in profile.

Eyes. — The eyes are deeply sunk in the orbits,
the lids assuming a lozenge or diamond shape in
consequence of the lower lids being dragged down
and everted by the heavy flews. The eyes corre-
spond with the general tone of color of the animal,
varying from deep hazel to yellow. The hazel color
is, however, to be preferred, although very seldom
seen in red-and-tan hounds.

Ears. — ^The ears are thin and soft to the touch,
extremely long, set very low, and fall in graceful
folds, the lower parts curling inward and back-
ward.

Wrinkle. — The head is furnished with an amount
of loose skin, which in nearly every position appears
superabundant, but more particularly so when the
head is carried low; the skin then falls into loose,
pendulous ridges and folds, especially over the fore-
head and sides of the face.

Nostrils. — ^The nostrils are large and open.

Lips, Flews, and Dewlap. — In front the lips
fall squarely, making a right angle with the upper
line of the foreface; while behind they form deep,
hanging flews and, being continued into the pendant
folds of loose skin about the neck, constitute the
dewlap, which is very pronounced. These char-
acters are found, though in a less degree, in the bitch.

Neck, Shoulders, and Chest. — The neck is
long, the shoulders muscular, and well sloped back-

SCENTING HOUNDS

ward; the ribs are well sprung, and the chest well
let down between the forelegs, forming a deep keel.

Legs and Feet. — ^The forelegs are straight and
large in bone, with elbows squarely set; the feet
strong and well knuckled up; the thighs and second
thighs (gaskins) are very muscular; the hocks well
bent and let down and squarely set.

Back and Loin. — The back and loins are strong,
the latter deep and slightly arched.

Stern. — ^The stern is long and tapering, and set
on rather high, with a moderate amount of hair
underneath.

Gait. — ^The gait is elastic, swinging, and free, the
stern being carried high, but not too much curled
over the back.

Color. — ^The colors are black-and-tan, red-and-
tan, and tawny; the darker colors being sometimes
interspersed with lighter or badger-colored hair,
and sometimes flecked with white. A small amount
of white is permissible on chest, feet, and tip of
stern.

THE OTTERHOUND

The Otterhound is one of the oldest of sporting
breeds, and no attempt will be made to indicate their
ancestry. In general form they are not unlike a
Bloodhound, with something in the shape of the
skull and jaw, curve of throat, and texture of the
coat that suggests the Dandie Dinmont. They are
a rugged breed. Everything about them conveys
the impression of usefulness, and they are capable

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

of coping with as many different conditions as any
other breed of dog. They have also been used in
the creation of other breeds, and the Airedale in
particular undoubtedly owes his water-loving traits
to a touch of the Otterhound. The early Otter-
hounds were said to have been much smaller in
size than those of the present day. There are no
packs in this country, but in England otter hunting
is termed the queen of summer sports, and is in fact
the only form of chase that may be followed during
the summer months. It is good sport, for the quarry
is a wily, resourceful animal, with haunts of its own
choosing, with the odds always in its favor. It
is also engaged in during the best days of the year
when Nature and the weather are to be found at
their finest.

The general points to look for in the selection of
Otterhound puppies are those of Bloodhounds with
a dense coat.

The points for which the Otterhound should be
bred are: A head resembling that of a Bloodhound,
but flatter and harder, with a long, narrow forehead;
dark eyes which are sunken and showing the haw;
black nostrils and rough-haired muzzle, with full,
hanging lips and large, thin, pendulous ears, well
coated with coarse hair, but with no tendency to
feather. The neck should be throaty; the chest
deep rather than wide; the back strong, long, and
straight, and the ribs deep; rather loose but strong,
powerful, sloping shoulders; elbows well let down.
Perfectly straight legs and muscular thighs are in-

English Bloodhounds.
Ch. Knoxcrift, Ch. Bernie, Ch. Bernie, Jr.

SCENTING HOUNDS

dispensable. Formerly the feet were large and well
webbed with firm, hard soles, but of late years Otter-
hounds have been bred with the cat feet of Fox-
hounds. The stern should be carried in a sloping
position, and should be well coated with hair and
tapering. The coat should be dense and of fair
length. Otterhounds should be large, and are of
several colors, brown, tan, and grizzle being the
commonest seen, but grizzle-brown, white and
cream-bufF, black-tan, and cream-tan are all found.
Height for dog should be not less than 25 inches,
and for bitches not less than 23 inches. In general
appearance they should be large, rugged, and sym-
metrical, full of hound character, with a look of
great endurance and determination.

THE FOXHOUND

It has been claimed that the Foxhound is the
most perfect member of his race, and that no dog
equals him in beauty of conformation, nose, and
courage. However that may be, more time and
money have been spent upon them than on any
other breed.

The Foxhound is said to be the result of a cross
between the Bloodhound and the Greyhound. They
have been recognized as a distinct breed, however,
for nearly three centuries. At the present time in
this country there are two distinct types of Fox-
hounds — the American and the English. The Eng-
lish hound is larger and heavier-boned than his
American cousin. English breeders have established

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

a high standard of excellence as to size, conforma-
tion, general symmetry, beauty of form and style,
but this has been done at the expense of nose, speed,
endurance, and fox sense.

The English hound is more satisfactory to hunt
clubs in the East, where the majority hunt to ride,
for English dogs are better trained and broken,
more evenly matched as to speed, and not fast
enough to get away from the rider. They also pre-
sent a more pleasing appearance to the eye.

The American hound is descended from hounds
brought to this country in pre-Revolutionary days
by the sport-loving gentry of Virginia, Maryland,
and Carolina, who bred them on purely utilitarian
lines, and succeeded in producing a family of dogs
which admirably filled the purpose for which they
were desired, and which are now scattered all over
the United States.

The American hound lacks the uniform size and
the regular markings of the English hound. They
are lighter in bone and muscle, but far excel them in
brains and fox sense. Their noses are keener, and
they will strike out boldly and search the likely
place for the fox, and will then drive them faster
and harder and give tongue with sweeter voices
than their English rivals.

Snipiness, coarse skull, cow hocks, flat sides, un-
straignt forelegs, and open feet are unpardonable
faults in a Foxhound.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Foxhound puppies at from two to four months old

SCENTING HOUNDS

and after, are: A long, level head, big nostrils,
square muzzle, great bone, deep chest, short back.

The American Foxhound standard and value of
points:

Head. — ^The skull should be fairly long, slightly
domed at the occiput, with cranium broad and full.

Ears. — Ears set on moderately low, long, reach-
ing, when drawn out, nearly, if not quite, to the end
of the nose; fine in texture, fairly broad, with almost
entire absence of erectile power, setting close to the
head, with the forward edge slightly inturned to the
cheek; rounded at tip.

Eyes. — Eyes large, set well apart, soft and hound-
like; expression gentle and pleading; of a brown or
hazel color.

Muzzle. — Muzzle of fair length, straight and
square cut, the stop moderately defined.

Jaws. — Level; lips free from flews; nostrils large
and open.

Defects. — A very flat skull, narrow across the
top; excess of dome; eyes small, sharp, and terrier-
like, or prominent and protruding; muzzle long and
snipy, cut away decidedly below the eyes, or very
short. Roman nosed or upturned, giving a dish-
face expression. Ears short, set on high, or with a
tendency to rise above the point of origin.

Body, Neck, and Throat. — Neck rising free and
light from the shoulders, strong in substance, yet
not loaded, of medium length. The throat clean
and free from folds of skin; a slight wrinkle below
the angle of the jaw, however, may be allowable.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Defects. — A thick, short, cloddy neck, carried on
a line with the top of the shoulders. Throat show-
ing dewlap and folds of skin to a degree termed
"throatiness."

Shoulders, Chest, and Ribs. — Shoulders slop-
ing, clean, muscular, not heavy or loaded, convey-
ing the idea of freedom of action with activity and
strength. Chest should be deep for lung space,
narrower in proportion to depth than the English
hound, 28 inches in a 23-inch hound being good.
Well sprung ribs; back ribs should extend well
back; a three-inch flank allowing springiness.

Defects. — Straight, upright shoulders; chest pro-
portionately wide or with lack of depth; flat
ribs.

Back and Loin. — Back moderately long, mus-
cular, and strong. Loin broad and slightly arched.

Defects. — Very long or swayed or roached back;
flat, narrow loin.

Forelegs and Feet — Forelegs. — Straight, with
fair amount of bone; pasterns short and straight.

Feet. — Fox-like; pad full and hard; well arched
toes; strong nails.

Defects. — Out at elbows; knees knuckled over
forward or bent backward. Forelegs crooked. Feet
long, open, or spreading.

Hips, Thighs, Hindlegs, and Feet — ^Hips and
Thighs. — Strong and well muscled, giving abund-
ance of propelling power; stifles strong and well let
down; hocks firm, symmetrical, and moderately
bent; feet close and firm.

SCENTING HOUNDS

Defects. — ^A long tail; teapot curve or inclined
forward from propelling power; open feet.

Tail. — Set moderately high; carried gaily, with
slight curve, but not turned forward over the back.
It should have a good brush.

Defects. — A long tail; teapot curve or inclined
forward from the root; rat tail with absence of
brush.

Coat. — A close, hard, hound coat of medium length.

Defects. — A short, thin coat or of a soft quality.

Height. — Dogs should not be under twenty-one
nor over twenty-four inches; bitches should not be
under twenty nor over twenty-three inches, measured
across the back at the point of the withers, the dog
standing in a natural position with his feet well
under him.

Color. — Any true hound color.

General Appearance. — A typical hound, solid
and strong, with the wear-and-tear look of the dog
that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to
the death.

Value of Points. — Skull, 5; ears, lO; eyes, 5;
muzzle, 5; neck, 5; chest and shoulders, 15; back,
loins and ribs, 15; forelegs, lo; hips, thighs, and hind-
legs, 10; feet, lO; coat, 5; stern, 5; Total, 100.

THE HARRIER

There was a time when the Harrier was a distinct

breed of dogs used in England to hunt the hare,

and there exists to-day an Association of Master

Harriers who keep a Stud Book and have done

k 61

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

everything they could to keep up a distinct strain.
Their efforts in a way, however, have proven in
vain, for it is the usual practice in making up a
pack of Harriers to simply go to Foxhound kennels,
choose a number of undersized Foxhounds, and call
them Harriers.

If the pack is to be hunted on foot, they will do
very well, if averaging i6 inches at the shoulder.
If they are to be followed on horseback, 20 to 22
inches is a more popular size. For these reasons the
Harriers, while resembling the Foxhound in many
points, lack the uniformity in size and type that
distinguishes that breed. There are packs of Har-
riers that will average in weight as low as 40 or 45
pounds; others run up to 70 or 75 pounds. They
also vary in appearance, some as a result of crosses
to that breed, resemble the Beagle in type and
character, and there are other old packs that take
after the Bloodhound* Some are low-set and
sturdy, others light and racy; consequently there is
no established type. There are, however, certain
leading features common to all, and these are:
Long heads, free from "stop;" square muzzles;
sloping shoulders; straight forelegs; round, catlike
feet; short backs; well-sprung ribs; strong loins;
sound hindquarters, with well-bent stifles. Height
about 18 inches, weight 56 pounds, and any hound
color.

SCENTING HOUNDS

THE BEAGLE

These deservedly popular little dogs are the
loveliest of the hound family. They are the merriest
little fellows imaginable, shrewd workmen, with the
keenest of noses and the most musical of voices.
They are used in hunting rabbits, either singly or
in packs of five or ten couples. Although pretty
and affectionate enough to make the sweetest of
pets, they never forget that their true mission in
life is to run the rabbit, and never are they more
appreciated than when their bell-like melodious
voices open up upon the trail.

As the country has settled up and feathered game
been exterminated, lovers of field sports who have
heretofore devoted their time in the field to bird
shooting over setters and pointers, have been obliged
to discard their bird dogs in favor of the little hounds,
for even in the immediate vicinity of the large cities
one can usually find rabbits plentiful enough to
furnish good sport.

The origin of the Beagle is lost in obscurity, but
It is quite probable that he was evolved from the
Foxhound by selecting the smallest specimens and
breeding them together until the proper size was
arrived at. The typical Beagle is designated in
some standards as a miniature Foxhound. This is
a mistake. He is a distinct breed, although having
many points in common with all hounds, such as
short back, compact body, straight legs, round feet,
powerful loins, and nicely-placed shoulders. The

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

true Beagle head has a skull free from coarseness,
but with plenty of room; a soft, pleading eye; wide
and large nostrils; deep, pendulous lips, and thin,
long, low-set ears. It is always difficult to get such
a head on a perfect body and legs. In color, the
blue mottle is very typical and greatly admired,
but black, tan-and-white, black-and-tan, lemon-and-
white, or any other hound color is perfectly allow-
able.

The limit of height for the Beagle is i6 inches;
the Pocket Beagle should not exceed lo inches, and
specimens of 8 inches are sometimes shown.

In selecting Beagle puppies, look for a compact
body, straight forelegs, a roomy head with well-
defined stop, and a square muzzle.

In buying a Beagle don't take one which is much
over 14 inches at the shoulder. Don't get one
which is too much like a Foxhound. A good Beagle
has the same lines, but is cobbier and has not such
a clean-cut throat. Don't take a second look at a
Beagle which is light in bone, out at elbows, or
weak in the ankles. Don't select one which has
weak, splayed feet. Don't take one with coarse,
thick ears, set on high.

The following is the standard of points laid down
by the Beagle Club:

Head. — Of fair length, powerful without being
coarse; skull domed, moderately wide, with an in-
dication of peak; stop well defined, muzzle not
snipy, and lips well flewed.

Nose, — Black, broad, and nostrils well expanded,

SCENTING HOUNDS

Eyes. — Brown, dark hazel, or hazel, not deep-set
or bulgy, and with a mild expression.

Ears. — ^Long, set on low, fine in texture, and
hanging in a graceful fold close to the cheek.

Neck. — Moderately long, slightly arched, and
throat showing some dewlap.

Shoulders. — Clean and slightly sloping.

Body. — Short between the couplings; well let
down in chest; ribs fairly well sprung and well
ribbed up, with powerful and not tucked up loins.

Hindquarters. — Very muscular about the thighs;
stifles and hocks well bent, and hocks well let down.

Forelegs. — Quite straight, well under the dog,
of good substance, and round in bone.

Feet. — Round, well knuckled up, and strongly
padded.

Stern. — Of moderate length, set on high, thick,
and carried gaily, but not curled over the back.

Color. — Any recognized hound color.

Coat. — Smooth variety: smooth, very dense, and
not too fine or short. Rough variety: very dense
and wiry.

Height. — Not exceeding i6 inches.

General Appearance. — ^A compactly-built hound
without coarseness, conveying the impression of
great stamina and vivacity.

Classification. — It is recommended that Beagles
should be divided at shows into rough and smooth,
with classes for "Beagles not exceeding i6 inches
and over 12 inches," and "Beagles not exceeding
12 inches."

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Value of Points. — ^Head, 20; ears, 10; eyes and
expression, lO; body, 15; hindquarters, lo; legs and
feet, 20; stern, 5; coat, 10. Total, 100.

THE BASSET HOUND

These quaint-appearing dogs are of very ancient
descent, and have existed in France in exactly the
same type that they present to-day for centuries.
They are essentially hunting dogs, possess mar-
velous powers of scent and wonderful voices, their
clear, bell-like notes surpassing in sweetness those
of any other hound, and when once heard are never
forgotten.

For hunting on foot they are claimed to be su-
perior to Beagles, their short, crooked legs almost
incapable of becoming tired. Their natural pace is
about seven miles an hour.

Basset Hounds have the best of tempers. In fact,
their dispositions seem to be almost too mild and
inoffensive for a sporting dog, although when
trained to follow wounded game, for which purpose
they are most useful, they take up a trail with the
utmost keenness and will never give up until it is
brought to bay, when they give tongue fiercely, but
show no desire to go into close quarters.

The late Mr. Dalziel has said of this breed:
"Basset Hounds have excellent tongues for their
size. They are willing workers, and when in good
training and condition will hunt every day and
thrive on it. They are clever at their work, and
when game is missed when breaking covert, often

SCENTING HOUNDS

succeed in 'ringing' it back within gunshot. As a
breed the Basset Hound is highly prized, being, per-
haps, the purest in existence in France. They bring
large prices and many could not be bought on any
terms. They are employed in hunting roebuck,
deer, wild boars, wolves, foxes, hares, and rabbits,
but where trained to enter on only one species of
game will keep to it exclusively. They move
slowly and allow plenty of time for the shooter to
take his vantage station, hence their popularity in
the estimation of shooters. They work best in
small woods, furze fields, and the like, for they do
not drive their game fast enough for work in the
large forests. The latter are usually cut by streams
and deep ravines set with rocks and boulders, which
the short, crooked-legged hound surmounts with
great difficulty, and while eventually they will
bring their game out, the long time which they
take to do so would seriously tell against the sport.
It is therefore more practical to run them in the
smaller coverts, where their voices can readily be
heard through the hunt, directing the shooter to
the proper posts of vantage.

In build the Basset is long in the barrel and is
very low on his pins; so much so that when hunting
he literally drags his long ears on the ground. He
is the slowest of hounds, and his value as such
cannot be overestimated. His style of hunting is
peculiar insomuch that he will have his own way.
Each hound tries for himself, and if one of them
finds and "says" so, the others will not blindly

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

follow him and give tongue simply because he does,
as some hounds accustomed to work in packs are
apt to do. On the contrary, they are slow to ac-
knowledge the alarm given, and will investigate the
matter for themselves. Thus under covert Bassets
following a trail go Indian file, and each speaks to
the line according to his own sentiments on the
point, irrespective of what the others may think
about it. In this manner it is not uncommon to see
the little hounds when following a mazy track
cross each other's route without paying any atten-
tion to one another; in short, each of them works
as if he were alone. This style I attribute to their
slowness, to their extremely delicate powers of
scent, and to their innate stubborn confidence in
their own powers. Nevertheless, it is a fashion
which has its drawbacks, for should the individual
hound hit on separate tracks of different animals,
unless at once stopped and put together on the
same one, each will follow its own find, and let the
shooter or shooters do his or their best. That is
why a shooter who is fond of that sort of sport
rarely owns more than one or two of these hounds.
One is enough, two may be handy in difficult cases,
but more would certainly entail confusion, precisely
because each one of them will rely only on the evi-
dence of his own senses.

In selecting puppies, look for length of head and
a narrow skull, with prominent occipital bone; fore-
face deep and square, ears long and low-set, long
body, deep chest, big quarters, and plenty of bone.

SCENTING HOUNDS

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Basset Hound puppies at two to four months old
and after, are: Very long head; narrow skull, show-
ing occipital bone well developed; deep, square fore-
face; long, loose ears, set on low; great bone; long
body; big quarters; deep chest.

The following description will act as a guide to
breeders and exhibitors:

General Appearance. — That of a large hunting
hound of classic mien, with the Bloodhound type of
head, the dog being merely dwarfed in the legs.

Head. — Long, very narrow, with occiput well
developed, and showing no perceptible "stop" or
indentation below the temples; muzzle deep, square
at the end, and with heavy-hanging flews.

Eyes.— -Rather small, sunken, and almond-shape,
showing the haw with a soft pellucid expression and
reposeful dignity.

Ears. — ^Very long, set on low, soft and velvety,
and folding as in the Bloodhound.

Neck. — Muscular and strong, but free from coarse-
ness, with dewlaps well defined.

Body. — Long, large, flat on back; ribs well sprung,
and loins broad and powerful, with strong and
powerful quarters.

Shoulders. — Sloping and laid well back.

Chest. — Deep, not broad, showing breast bone
well developed.

Tail. — Moderate in length, carried in sickle
fashion and slightly "feathered" or fringed with
longer hair on the underneath side.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Legs. — ^The forelegs should be short, crooked at
the knees, with large, strong, broad feet, turning
slightly out. The dog must be perfectly sound on his
legs — that is to say, he must not "knuckle over,"
which is a fatal blemish. He can scarcely have too
much bone, owing to the abnormally large body his
limbs have to support.

Coat. — In the smooth variety the coat should be
short and dense, the skin thick, yet free from coarse-
ness; on the contrary, a certain amount of "quality"
should be manifest, indicating high breeding. In
the rough variety the coat should be about an inch
and a half in length, and harsh to the touch.

Color. — ^The color should be distributed in
patches upon a white body, as in the Foxhound,
and the same colors are admissible, viz., black-and-
tan, hare-pied, or any recognized . hound color.

Value of Points. — Head (skull, eyes, muzzle,
occiput, flews), 20; ears, lo; neck, dewlap, chest,
and shoulders, lO; forelegs and feet, 15; back, loins,
and quarters, lO; stern, 5; coat and skin, lo; color
and markings, 10; character and symmetry^ 10.
Total, 100.

THE DACHSHUND

These long, low, and peculiarly-shaped dogs are
the national dogs of Germany. They are classified
with the hounds, but in reality are terriers, as their
work is almost entirely underground.

They derive their name from the fact that in

SCENTING HOUNDS

their native land they are used to draw the dachs,
an animal similar to our badger. Their long, low
structure, powerful legs, strong claws, sharp teeth,
muscular jaws, and fierce fighting spirit admirably
adapts them for underground work of this char-
acter. They are also used in following the fox, and
will track the fox or badger to his haunts and fight
him in his burrow. They have fair noses, and are
sometimes trained to follow wounded deer. At-
tempts have been made to use them for rabbit
dogs, but they are not such capable workers as
either hounds or Beagles, lacking in both nose and
intelligence.

There is nothing aristocratic about the Dachs-
hund's appearance, and they have never become
popular in America.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Dachshund puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: A long, level head; small eye;
ears set rather low; long body, showing distinct arch
in loin; deep chest; great bone; short legs.

The following standard is used by most American
and British judges:

General Appearance. — ^The dog should be long,
low, and graceful, not cloddy.

Head. — Long, level, and narrow; no stop.

Skull. — Long and narrow; peak well developed.

Eyes. — Intelligent and somewhat small; follow
body in color.

Jaws. — Strong, level, and square to the muzzle.

Teeth. — Canines recurvent.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

EIars. — ^Long, broad, and soft, set on low and well
back; carried close to the head.

Chest. — Deep and narrow; breast bone prom-
inent.

Loin. — ^Well arched, long, and muscular.

Body. — Length from back of head to root of
stern, 2}4 times the height at shoulder; fore ribs
well sprung; back ribs very short; quarters very
muscular.

Forelegs. — Very short and strong in bone, well
crooked, not standing over; elbows well clothed with
muscle, turned neither in nor out.

HiNDLEGS. — Smaller in bone and higher.

Feet. — Large, round, and strong, with thick
pads and strong nails; hind feet smaller. The dog
must stand true — i. e.y equally on all parts of the
foot.

Stern. — Long and strong, flat at root, tapering
to the tip; hair on under side coarse; carried low
except when excited.

Coat. — Dense, short, ahd strong.

Color. — ^Any color. Nose to follow body color;
much white objectionable.

Skin. — ^Thick, loose, supple, and in great quantity.

Height at Shoulder. — From 7 to 9 inches.

Weight.— Dogs, about 21 pounds; bitches, about
18 pounds.

SHEPHERD DOGS

OLD ENGLISH SHEEP DCXJ

The Old English Sheep Dog is a highly intelli-
gent, picturesque, affectionate, and useful member
of the pastoral class, resembling in important par-
ticulars of conformation, appearance, and character
the herd dogs of continental countries from Spain
to Russia. They all undoubtedly trace their origin
at some early period to a common ancestry. The
continental dogs were as a rule larger and fiercer
than the Sheep Dogs of to-day, and it is probable
that the early progenitors of the breed, who lived
in a time when it was necessary to defend the flocks
against bears and wolves, were larger, stronger, and
fiercer than those we have now.

The herding instincts of the Sheep Dog are deeply
seated, and as stock dogs they are unequaled. They
are also said to make capital retrievers for sports-
men, being easily controlled, soft-mouthed, good
water dogs, and stay at heel by inclination. They
learn readily, and are always anxious to please their
masters. There is practically no limit to what they
can be taught to do, and their sphere of usefulness
is a wide one.

There is a popular idea that this breed is tailless.
This is a mistake. The tail is usually amputated,
the custom originating with the drovers of England.
According to law, dogs used for working purposes

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

were exempt from taxation, and they adopted the
docking of the tail to distinguish dogs which came
under the ruling. There will be found in many
litters of Sheep Dogs one or two puppies without
tails, while all the other puppies have them. These
cases are accounted for on the ground of inherited
^ [ ( effect, for it is claimed by Darwin that a continued
• ' ' process of breeding from animals which suffer dock-
ing will produce puppies that are natural bob-tails.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Old English Sheep Dog puppies at from two to four
months old and after, are: Great size, big, massive
heads, and heavy muzzles; short, round bodies,
deep chest, and great bone, with as much coat as
possible.

The following is the Old English Sheep Dog
Club's standard:

Skull. — Capacious, and rather squarely formed,
giving plenty of room for brain power. The parts
over the eyes should be well arched, and the whole
well covered with hair.

Jaw. — Fairly long, strong, square, and truncated;
the stop should be defined to avoid a Deerhound
face.

Eyes. — Dark or wall eyes are to be preferred.

Nose. — Always black, large, and capacious.

Teeth. — Strong and large, evenly placed, and
level in opposition.

Ears. — Small, and carried flat to side of head,
coated moderately.

Legs. — The forelegs should be dead straight, with

SHEPHERD DOGS

plenty of bone, removing the body a medium
height from the ground, without approaching leggi-
ness; well coated all round.

Feet. — Small, round toes; well arched, and pads
thick and hard.

Tail. — Puppies requiring docking must have an
appendage left of from i}4 inches to 2 inches, and
the operation performed within a week from birth,
preferably within four days.

Neck and Shoulders. — The neck should be
fairly long, arched gracefully, and well coated with
hair; the shoulders sloping and narrow at the points,
the dog standing lower at the shoulder than at the
loin.

Body. — Rather short and very compact; ribs
well sprung and brisket deep and capacious. The
loin should be very stout and gently arched, while
the hindquarters should be round and muscular,
and with well let down hocks, and the hams densely
coated with a thick, long jacket in excess of any
other part.

Coat. — Profuse, and of good, hard texture; not
straight, but shaggy and free from curl. The under-
coat should be a waterproof pile when not removed
by grooming or season.

Color. — Any shade of gray, grizzle, blue, or blue
merled, with or without white markings, or in re-
verse; any shade of brown or sable to be considered
distinctly objectionable and not to be encouraged.

Height. — Twenty-two inches and upward for
dogs, slightly less for bitches. Type, symmetry,

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and character are of the greatest importance, and
on no account to be sacrificed to size alone.

General Appearance. — A strong, compact-look-
ing dog of great symmetry, absolutely free from
legginess or weaselness, profusely coated all over,
very elastic in its gallop, but in walking or trotting
he has a characteristic ambling or pacing move-
ment, and his bark should be loud, with a peculiar
pot casse ring in it. Taking him all round, he is a
thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog, with a most
intelligent expression, free from all Poodle or Deer-
hound character.

Value of Points. — ^Head, 5; eyes, 5; color, 10;
ears, 5; body, loins, and hindquarters, 20; jaw, lo;
nose, 5; teeth, 5; legs, lO; neck and shoulders, 10;
coat, 15. Total, 100.

THE COLLIE

The life story of the Collie is the history of pastoral
life, for from the first day that man herded flocks
he had a dog to help him. There is a similarity in
character and appearance between the sheep and
cattle dogs of all countries, which points to their com-
mon origin, while the cunning and outward look of all
indicate their descent from the wild dogs of nature.

The Collie or Sheep Dog in all countries is con-
sidered superior to other dogs in instinct and in-
telligence, and his countenance discloses sagacity,
alert eagerness, and devotion to his master. There
is a great diflference between the Collie of the bench
shows and the old working Collie of the Highlands,

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SHEPHERD DOGS

The Collie of the bench shows is a fancier's creation ;
a more graceful and beautiful animal does not exist.
He was produced from the old working, type, but
remote crossing and careful selection continued for
many years has so radically changed him that he is
now almost a breed of his own.

The working qualities of the bench show Collie
have been so sadly neglected that they are all but
lost. Certainly they are not to be compared in this
respect with the Collie of the hills, bred on purely
utilitarian lines. In appearance, however, the bench
show Collie is a much handsomer and more attrac-
. rive type, for the working dog is on the nondescript
order. The latter vary in size and color; some are
smooth coated, some are rough; some have prick
ears, others half-dropped or drop, while many have
what is known as a watch eye. Some of the best
workmen will weigh under forty pounds. Occa-
sionally you will see among the shepherds large,
handsome black, white, and tan specimens with
fair coats, but more will be all black in color, smooth
coated and small in size. The most popular among
the Scottish shepherds is the small black-and-white
type with medium coats.

THE COLLIE (ROUGH COAT)

The Rough-coated Collie is a purely Scottish-bred

dog, and, like all varieties of sheep and cattle dogs,

used in pastoral life and agricultural pursuits, is of

great antiquity. Indeed, it is generally assumed

that of all the varieties of the domesticated dog, the
• 77

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Collie or Sheep Dog is the oldest, and probably the
one variety from which all breeds have been evolved.
This idea has doubtless arisen from the fact that the
Collie most resembles the wild dog, and that there
is a great similarity in form and character between
the sheep and cattle dogs of all countries, which
points to a common origin. The little differences
may be accounted for by the variations in char-
acter of the different countries which call for dogs
somewhat different in build, but all are more or less
of the same type and character — the Dutch, Ger-
man, Belgian, French, Spanish, etc.

The chief points to look for in the selection of .
Collie puppies at from two to four months old and
after, are: Great length of head, which should be
level and wedge-shaped, but should not run into
coarseness or width at the base of the skull, which
should be narrow. Ears small; body short and round;
tail short; forelegs straight. The biggest puppies
are apt to be the best if they are not coarse, but pos-
sess the desired points. The foregoing applies to
both roughs and smooths, the latter requiring to be
very smooth in coat, short but dense. The more
coat the roughs have the better.

The following are the standard description and
points as laid down by the Collie Club for the two
varieties:

Head. — Skull flat, moderately wide between the
ears, and gradually tapering to the eyes. There
should be but a very slight prominence of the eye-
brows, and a very slight depression at the top.

SHEPHERD DOGS

The proper width of skull necessarily depends
upon the combined length of skull and muzzle, for
what would be a thick or a too broad skull in one
dog is not necessarily so in another of the same
actual girth, but better supported by length of
muzzle. It must also be considered in conjunction
with the size of the dog and should incline to light-
ness, accompanied by cleanness of outline of cheeks
and jaws. A heavy-headed dog lacks the bright,
alert, and fuU-of-sense look so much to be desired.
On the other hand, the attenuated head is most
frequently seen with small Terrier eyes, which show
no character.

Muzzle should be of fair length and tapering to
the nose, which should be black; it must not show
weakness or appear snipy. The teeth of good size
and even. English standard says, "Mouth the
least bit overshot," but this is by no means desir-
able, and if at all exaggerated should be treated as
a malformation.

Eyes. — There being no "brow'* in which to set
the eyes, they are necessarily placed obliquely, the
upper portion of the muzzle being dropped or
chiseled to give them the necessary forward look-
out. They should be of medium size, never showing
too light in comparison with the color of coat, nor
with a yellow ring. Expression full of intelligence,
with a bright "What-is-it?" look when on the
alert or listening to orders. This is of course largelv
contributed to by the throwing up of the ears which
accompanies the qui vive attitude.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Ears. — ^The ears can hardly be too small if car-
ried properly. If too small they are apt to be thrown
quite erect or prick-eared; and if large they either
cannot be properly lifted off the head or, if lifted,
they show out of proportion. When in repose the
ears are folded lengthwise and thrown back into the
frill; on the alert they are thrown up and drawn
closer together on the top of the skull. They should
be carried about three-quarters erect. A prick-
eared dog should be penalized. So much attention
having of late been given to securing very high car-
riage of ears, it has resulted in reaching the other
extreme in some cases, and it is now necessary to
guard against that.

Neck. — Should be muscular and of sufficient
length to give the dog a fine upstanding appear-
ance, and show oiF the frill, which should be very
full.

Body. — Rather long, ribs well rounded, chest
deep but of fair breadth behind the shoulders,
which should have good slope. Loin slightly arched,
showing power.

Legs. — Forelegs straight and muscular, with a
fair amount of bone, the forearm moderately fleshy;
pasterns showing flexibility without weakness; the
hindlegs less fleshy, very sinewy, and hocks and
stifles well bent. Feet oval in shape, soles well
padded, and the toes arched and close together.

Tail. — Moderately long, carried low when the
dog is quiet, the end having an upward "swirl;"
when excited, carried gaily but not over the back.

SHEPHERD DOGS

Coat. — ^This is a very important point. The
coat, except on the head and legs, should be abun-
dant, the outer coat harsh to the touch, the inner
coat soft and furry and very close; so close that it is
difficult on parting the hair to see the skin. The
mane and frill should be very abundant. The mask
or face smooth, the forelegs slightly feathered, the
hindlegs below the hocks smooth. Hair on tail
very profuse, and on the hips long and bushy.

Color. — Immaterial, though a richly-colored or
nicely-marked dog has undoubtedly a considerable
amount of weight with judges. The black-and-tan
with white frill and collar, or the still more showy
sable with perfect white markings will generally
win, other tnings being equal.

Size. — Dogs, 22 to 24 inches at the shoulder;
bitches, 20 to 22 inches. Weight — dogs, 45 to 60
pounds; bitches, 40 to 50 pounds.

Expression. — This is one of the most important
points in considering the relative value of Collies.
"Expression," like the term "character," is difficult
to define in words. It is not a fixed point as in color,
weight, or height, and is something the uninitiated
can only properly understand by optical illustration.
It is the combined product of the shape of the skull
and muzzle, the set, size, shape, and color of the
eyes, and the position and carriage of the ears.

General Character. — A lithe, active dog, with
no useless timber about him, his deep chest snowing
strength, his sloping shoulders and well-bent hocks
indicating speed, and his face high intelligence.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

As a whole he should present an elegant and pleas-
ing outline, quite distinct from any other breed,
and show great strength and activity.

Faults. — Domed skull, high, peaked occipital
bone, heavy, pendulous ears, or the other extreme,
prick ears, short tail or tail curled over the back.

The following scale of points are those adopted
by the Collie clubs of England. The club does not
recommend point judging, the figures merely show-
ing on which "properties** the greater stress is laid:

Value of Points. — ^Head and expression, 15;
ears, lo; neck and shoulders, 10; legs and feet, 15;
hindquarters, 10; back and loins, lO; brush, 5; coat
with frill, 20; size, 5. Total, 100.

THE SMOOTH-COATED COLLIE

The Smooth-coated Collie is or should be an ex-
act replica of his rough-coated brother in every
detail and particular, but with a short, dense,
double coat which looks smooth to the eye, but
which is harsh and weather-resisting. The Smooth-
coated Collie is an English edition of his Scotch
cousin, and is doubtless a manufactured variety to
a great extent, as seen to-day on the show bench,
although a form of smooth Collie or Sheep Dog has
been indigenous to the agricultural districts of
England from time immemorial almost.

The smooth Collie, as an all-around utility dog,
probably cannot be excelled. His short, sleek,
dense, weather-resisting coat is undoubtedly an ad-
vantage to him over his rough brother in snowy

SHEPHERD DOGS

weather, and is less cumbersome to carry. He is
more difficult to breed to type because of his smooth
coat, which lays bare an anatomy which a rough
coat covers, and without which defects of body
cannot be hidden in the smooth variety. The or-
thodox color of the smooth is much the same as in
the rough-coated variety.

There also exists in Scotland a type known as the
Bearded Collie. These dogs bear considerable re-
semblance to the old English Sheep Dog. In fact,
it is easy to imagine that the latter would assume
the form and appearance of Bearded Collies if for
a few generations they were bred for working pur-
poses alone. The Bearded Collie is a hardy-looking
dog with a very nice temper. They are capable of
a good day*s work and can endure much cold and
wet without discomfort. The head of a Bearded
Collie has something about it which suggests the
Dandie Dinmont, while they possess a dignity and
grandeur which reminds one of the Deerhound, the
Otterhound, and the majestic animals which inhabit
mountainous countries.

THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG

The interest in this remarkable breed of dogs has
developed so rapidly that we are gratified at being
able to present this authoritative article by Jay
Hall, one of the most successful exhibitors of the
breed in this country:

This native German breed resembling the wolf in
general appearance is known throughout the world

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

by many different names. Commonly called the
Police Dog, by reason of the large number used in
night patrol duty on the police force of German
cities, it is known in England as the Alsatian Wolf
Dog. It is often referred to as the Belgian Police
Dog and as the French Police Dog. In America,
prior to the entrance by the United States into the
World War, it was known by its true name — the
German Shepherd Dog. In 191 8 the American
Kennel Club arbitrarily dropped the word "Ger-
man," naming the breed plainly **The Shepherd
Dog."

The breed is known in Germany as the Deutscher
Schaferhiind (or German Shepherd Dog), but when
trained for police duty is designated as the Policei-
hund or police dog. It has been stated that as early
as 191 1 more than 400 police stations in Germany
had been provided with specially-trained dogs of
this species.

Primarily a herding dog descended from the long-
haired dogs of South Germany, he lends himself to
training of varied character. A nose hunter, keen
of scent, he makes aft admirable trailer of man or
game. In common with the Shepherd Dog of any
race, he, by reason of his close and constant com-
panionship with man, is generally obedient and
sagacious. His physical makeup adapts him to
tireless sustained effort, and the breeders respon-
sible for the fixed type that exists wisely provided
for a combination that, while it preserves a certain
beauty of outline, has lost nothing in usefulness as

SHEPHERD DOGS

a working dog. The Shepherd has been found
readily adapted to training both for Red Cross and
police purposes, and has been used extensively in
these fields chiefly by the Germans.

In Germany the breed is sponsored by the Ger-
man Shepherd Dog Club, an active organization
with a membership of many thousands widely
spread throughout the country. The Stud Book
published by this club is a model of excellence. In
fact, personally I have never seen a stud book of
any breed of animals that was superior to it. It
was founded in 1899. Six root stocks mark the
beginning of the breed.

No breed of dog has gained favor more quickly
with the public than has this b^eed in America.
From obscurity in 1904, when the breed was first
introduced into the United States, to-day (1921)
finds that the Shepherds benched run one, two,
three in number at nearly all our more important
shows.

Perhaps the greatest misnomer, on the part of the
uninformed public, of the true and natural disposi-
tion of dogs of this breed is a natural result of the
commonly given name "Police Dog." By nature
the Shepherd is quick, affectionate, intelligent,
faithful, of fine mind and memory, devoted to its
master, and zealous in his interest. It is these very
attributes that constitute a fine groundwork for the
training of certain of these dogs for police service.

It is well then to consider that the true dog of the
breed is a shepherd by type, and that only specialized

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

training transforms him to a police dog. As a
police dog his fine basic characteristics are ac-
centuated and developed to a point of usefulness
for the particular work at hand.

The idea of using dogs for civic protection is by-
no means new. Louis XI, who ruled in France
early in the fifteenth century, provided the famous
town of Mont St. Michel with a dog corps, and
St. Malo, close by, was protected in a similar manner.

While it is generally recorded that the city of
Ghent in Belgium was the first city to establish a
systematic and regular school for the training of
police dogs and putting them into local service
after training them, it is claimed that the honor of
introducing the modern police dog on the continent
really belongs to Dr. Gerland, who introduced the
practice at Hildesheim, Germany, early in 1896.
During the five years that followed the experiment
was taken up by practically every country in Europe,
and several foreign countries, including Japan, sent
representatives abroad to investigate the plan and
methods.

In the training and instruction of these dogs for
police duty they are taught to seize an object with-
out seriously hurting it; to hunt for vagabonds and
defend the uniforms; not to accept anything from
strangers nor to be petted by them; to guard an
object placed on the ground; to keep individuals at
bay without biting until human help arrives, but
to attack if necessary if flight is attempted; to follow
through a house where dwellings or buildings re-

SHEPHERD DOGS

quire searching; not to be afraid of firearms; to run
into alleys, behind houses and outbuildings, and
into many places where the human eye could not see
unless provided with a light; to follow his master
with or without leash at distances ranging to a
maximum of 150 feet; to bark loudly to announce
a find. These dogs are finally trained to respect
and protect a police uniform, and seem instinctively
to know the uniform. If a man attacks its master,
the dog becomes furious and savage, and often jumps
at the throat of the aggressor. After their training
is completed and when they are not on active duty
they remain in their kennels all day, seeing only
the trainers who care for them, and as they are on
duty throughout the night, they have no means of
becoming familiar with the public.

The first essential of training this breed is to
inculcate absolute obedience. It has been found
that the greater the intelligence of the dog the
more difficult it is to teach them a routine. The
dog's own individuality is likely to assert itself.
Rare discretion must be used by the skilled trainer.

The following essentials are enumerated as nec-
essary in their training for police use: A dog must
be taught to give tongue when quarry is found or
breaks from cover on a run, to curb its hunting in-
stincts and stop abruptly at cry or whistle of com-
mand. Where resistance is oflFered it is taught to
leap at the wrist or throat of the culprit, and while
prowling by itself to rout from bushes or shadows
all marauders.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

•

The dog's early education for police service leads
him to suspect all strangers. He cannot be in-
timidated, coaxed, or lured. He will refuse all food
when offered by strangers, even though he may be
extremely hungry. A properly trained police dog
is irreproachable in morals, mien, and manners.
He will face pistol fire unflinchingly and leap sav-
agely to attack. A well-trained dog will easily clear
a seven-foot obstacle, and can broad-jump a small
stream or creek twelve to fifteen feet across. The
dog's education enables him to ferret out hidden
goods, to find coins that have been dropped; in fact,
to search out every clue of the criminal that may be
of service in leading to his eventual discovery and
arrest. These dogs are quick to sense the presence
of criminals with whom they have had previous
contact, and have been known to pick men out of
a crowd under these conditions.

We would again forcefully call to the reader's
attention the fact that these characteristics are
peculiar to those of the breed trained for this special
duty or purpose. The well-bred Shepherd untrained
for police use is an admirable companion, loyal,
affectionate, well mannered, obedient and in no way
savage or solitary.

The illustration reproduced is that of the Grand
Champion of the Breed in America, 1920, Grand
Champion Van Halls Rex Buckel.

Listed below is the standard of the breed as es-
tablished by the German Shepherd Dog Club (S. V.
Munick, E. V.) in alliance with Specialty Clubs

American bred collie, Ch. Starbit.
Police dog, Grand Chunp, Vantudl'i Rex Bucket.

■■■i

SHEPHERD DOGS

maintaining stud books as well as the Field Trial
Alliance of the breeders' associations of working dog
breeds and also the Alliance with (P. H. Z.) (Police
dog breeding). Translated from the German by
Leo F. F. Wanner, of Hempstead, L. I.

General Appearance. — ^The German Shepherd
is a medium-size dog. He is rather long in body,
strong, and well muscled. He is so full of life that
when at attention nothing can escape his sharp
senses. The average height for dogs is 60 centimeters
(24 inches), and for bitches between 55 and 58
centimeters (22 to 23^^ inches). The height is to
be established with a standard laid alongside of the
elbow and taken in a straight line from the top of
shoulder blade to the ground; coat parted and
pressed down so that the measurement will show
only the actual height of the bone frame or structure
of the dog. For the Shepherd Dog as a working dog
the most desirable height is between 55 and about
64-65 centimeters (22 and about 26 inches). The
working value of dogs above or below these heights
is lessened.

The traits and special characteristics are watch-
fulness, courageous loyalty, strict honesty and ar-
istocratic appearance, all forming a combination
which makes the clean-bred German Shepherd an
ideal companion and watch dog. It is desirable to
try to improve his appearance, but nothing must be
done which will in any way detract from his use-
fulness.

Head. — Size of head should be in proportion to the

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

body, not plump; in appearance clean cut, medium
wide between ears. Forehead seen from the front
only very moderately arched, without or with only
slightly indicated center furrow. Cheeks form a
very slight curve to muzzle, without any promi-
nence whatsoever at the front. The skull slopes in
a slanting line without any abrupt stop at the fore-
head, continuing into a cone-shaped, pointed, long,
and dry muzzle. The muzzle is strong, the lips dry
and tight, firmly fitting together; the bridge of the
nose straight, very nearly following out the elongated
line of the forehead. Jaws and teeth are very strong,
teeth meeting in a scissors-like manner, sharply
overlapping each other, but they must not be over
or undershot.

Ears. — Medium size, set high on the head, broad
at the base and pointed at the tips. They are car-
ried erect and turned to the front. Occasionally we
find Collie or soft-eared dogs, but the erect ear is
always desirable. The breeding of dogs with erect
ears is desirable, although it is immaterial how a
herding dog carries his ears. Trimmed and soft
ears are to be discarded. Puppies and young dogs
usually do not straighten their ears before the fourth
or sixth month and sometimes even later.

Eyes. — Medium size, almond-shaped, set a little
obliquely and not protruding; color as dark as pos-
sible. The expression should be lively, intelligent,
and show distrust of strangers.

Neck. — Strong, with well-developed muscles of

SHEPHERD DOGS

medium length, without any loose folds of skin.
Carried high when excited, otherwise straight.

Body. — Chest deep, but not too broad. Ribs
flat. Stomach moderately tucked up. Back straight
and strongly developed. The length of the body
should exceed the shoulder height of the dog.
Short-coupled and long-legged dogs should be dis-
carded. The Shepherd Dog should never run wild.
The handiness and elasticity required of a herding
dog is attained by good angles at hindquarters,
broad, powerful loin, long, sloping croup.

Tail. — Heavily coated, reaching the hock, and
often forming a slight hook twisted to one side. At
rest the tail hangs in a slight curve. When excited
and in motion the curve is accentuated and the tail
is raised, although it should never be lifted beyond
a vertical line. The tail therefore should never be
laid over the back, either straight or curled. It is
natural that bob-tails should appear, but they should
not be used for breeding. Docked tails are to be
discarded.

FoREQUARTERS. — Shouldcrs long and sloping, well
muscled, and set on flat against the body. Legs
straight viewed from every angle.

Hindquarters. — Leg broad, powerfully muscled;
upper thigh quite long and viewed from the sides, set
at an angle with the long lower thigh. Hock strong.

Feet. — Round, short, compact, and arched. Pads
very hard, nails short, strong, and generally dark in
color. Dewclaws usually appear on the hind leg.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Dewclaws are not faults nor are they desirable
points in the standard. They generally cause a
spread action behind, also injuries, and therefore it
is essential that they be removed immediately after
the puppies are whelped.

Color. — Black, iron-gray, ash-gray, reddish-yel-
low, reddish-brown (either solid color or with regular
markings of reddish-brown to whitish-gray). Fur-
thermore pure white, or white with dark patches
intermingled (blue-red brindle), also dark brindle
(black patches on gray, yellow, or light brown
body), with lighter colored markings. The so-
called wolfs color (coloring of the dog in his wild
state), white markings on chest and legs are per-
mitted. The undercoat, except in black dogs, is
always light in color. The color of a puppy can
only be ascertained after his top coat comes in.

Coat. — ^The following types are classified solely
according to the texture of their coats :

A. — ^The Smooth-Coated German Shepherd Dog.

B. — The Rough-Coated or wire-haired German
Shepherd Dog.

C. — ^The Long-Coated German Shepherd Dog.

A very close undercoat is characteristic of each of
the three types.

A. — ^The Smooth-Coated German Shepherd Dog:
The top coat is very dense, each single hair straight,
harsh, and lying close to the body. The head, in-
cluding the inner ear, front of legs, and paws,
covered with short hair, and the neck with longer
and thicker hair. The fore and hind legs have a

SHEPHERD DOGS

short feather extending to the pasterns and hock
respectively. Length of coat varies; this .accounts
for the great variety of different length coats. Too
short a coat is a fault. A smooth coat which is too
long collects dirt, and usually means either a poor
or no undercoat.

B. — ^The Rough-Coated or Wire-Haired German
Shepherd Dog: This type is very rare, especially
clean-bred instances. The coat is generally shorter
than that of the smooth-coated variety. The
shorter haired parts of the smooth dog, such as
head and legs, are, in the rough-coated dog, covered
with still shorter wire hair. This wire hair also
forms on the lips and eyes, more or less developed
beard and eyebrows. Each single hair should be
very stiff, hard, and wire-like to the touch, as in
the rough-coated German Pinscher. The tail is
without feather. In other respects the rough-coated
dog corresponds to the smooth-coated type, with
the exception of the muzzle, which in the former is
a trifle broader and stronger.

C. — The Long-Coated or Old German Type
Shepherd Dog: This type is also growing scarce.
They are still found in southern and eastern Ger-
many as working dogs. As a rule they result from
crossing the smooth and rough-coated types. The
clean bred Old Type German Shepherd Dog is very-
scarce. The coat is thick, long, and tangled, rougn
to the touch. Hair of head falls to the side, partly
covering the eyes, and forms a mustache as well as
a goatee. The paws are long-coated and the tail

^ 93

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

bushy. In southern Germany they have medium-
size, hanging ears. In northern Germany, par-
ticularly in Hanover and Braunschweig, they are
found with erect ears. The long-coated Shepherd
Dog is generally all white in color.

Faults. — ^All physical defects which tend to
lessen the utility and endurance, especially a com-
bination of short back and legginess in a dog; built
too coarse or too fine; weak or sway back, straight
quarters as well as any point of the running gear
which would affect length and evenness of stride,
elasticity, and endurance. Furthermore, too short
or too soft a coat and absence of undercoat; skull
too coarse or lacking in depth. Muzzle too short
or stumpy or too weak, pointed muzzle, also over
and undershot. Splay foot; long-coated paws, ex-
cept in long-coated type; hanging as well as badly-
carried ears for any length of time, except in long-
coated old German type dogs; rolled or badly-carried
tail, cropped ears and docked tails.

THE SHETLAND COLLIE

This breed of dog bears the same relationship in
size and appearance to the rough Collie as the tiny
Shetland pony does to some of the larger breeds of
horses native to Scotland. They resemble them in
everything but size.

A good specimen of this dog should be an absolute
replica in miniature of the ordinary Collie. They
are a true breed inasmuch as they breed to size and
type, and in their native country are used for driv-

SHEPHERD DOGS

ing and gathering the sheep inhabiting these wind-
swept isles. In later years they have been bred more
as companions and pets than for utility, and for
this purpose they are excellent as they have the in-
telligence and faithful heart of the larger dog to a
high degree.

The chief points to be looked for in the selection
of Shetland Collie puppies are those of the Scotch
Collie on a reduced scale.

The general description of the breed is as follows:

The average weight is about 7 pounds for bitches,
and up to 10 pounds or thereby for dogs.

Length or Body, from root of tail to shoulder,
15 inches.

Height at Forearm, 9 inches to 10 inches.

Length of Head, from occiput to tip of nose,
5 inches to 6 inches. The head should be flat and
not over thick in skull, with the muzzle tapering to
the nose; mouth clean-teethed and level.

Ears. — Semi-erect, small, and placed high on the
head.

The Eye should be well placed and small and dark,
with the ordinary intelligent Collie expression.

The Front Legs are straight, strong boned, and
short, and beautifully feathered, with plenty of
chest frill.

Hindquarters strong and well feathered, with
the legs clean.

Tail well feathered and carried as the ordinary
Collie.

Color. — They are found in various colors, such

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

as black-and-tan, black-tan-and-white, black-and-
white, sable-and-white, and, in that northern cli-
mate, they may be found wholly white.

The Outer Coat is long and glossy, a trifle softer
in texture than the ordinary Collie, but with the
usual woolly undercoat. This softness of outer
coat may perhaps be accounted for by climatic con-
ditions. For instance, the little Shetland sheep car-
ries a much finer, softer, and more valuable coat
than the sheep of our country.

GUN DOGS

THE POINTER

The Pointer deservedly occupies a high place in
the esteem of American sportsmen, for he is at-
tractive in form and possesses fine field qualities.
The pointing dogs, from which they are descended,
originated in Spain during the Middle Ages, and early
in the seventeenth century crossed the mountains
into France, and eventually found their way over
to England. These early Spanish dogs were so
heavy, coarse, and cumbersome that English sports-
men, with the object of lightening up their heavy
frames and gaining more speed, crossed them with
the Foxhound. In the colonial days of this country
there were many enthusiastic sportsmen, partic-
ularly in Maryland and the Carolinas, who imported
Pointers from abroad. These were judiciously
mated, new dogs brought over from time to time,
and eventually their progeny became scattered
throughout the country, making warm friends and
admirers, so that to-day they are one of the most
popular of America's sporting breed.

The Pointer as a rule does not make up to strangers
as readily as a Setter, but to his owner he is an affec-
tionate and loyal companion. Pointer admirers
claim that as a class their short-haired favorites are
more naturally inclined to point than Setters; that
they are more easily broken, retain their training

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

longer, and are more obedient in the field. No
question will be raised over the fact that their short-
ness of coat constitutes a strong recommendation
for warm climate or for summer shooting on the
prairies or in sections of the country where cockle
burrs, sand fleas, nettles, and other pests abound
and annoy long-haired dogs to distraction.

There is a group of English breeders who are al-
ways attempting to improve the Pointer by Fox-
hound crosses. There is another group, led by
William Arkwright, Esq., of Sutton, Scarsdale,
Derbyshire, who have vigorously opposed these
crosses. Mr. Arkwright has always stood firmly
for pure breeding. He is the foremost living au-
thority on the breed, his opinions have been closely
followed by American breeders, and as a result our
American strains have been kept pure and have
arrived at a most gratifying regularity of type,
combined with brilliant field qualities.

There are no accurate records of the Pointers
brought to this country previous to 1870. At that
time the magazine Forest and Stream was founded,
and it soon attained a wide circulation among
sportsmen and fanciers, who began recording in its
columns the descriptions and pedigrees of various
celebrated dogs as well as the pedigrees, records,
and appearance of the Pointers that were being
brought to this country from abroad.

The first of these of importance was Sensation,
imported by the Westminster Kennel Club. This
dog was widely heralded, but he never rose above

GUN DOGS

mediocrity either as a sire or in the field. Bang
Bang, a smaller dog of the celebrated Price strain,
brought over at the same time, was in every way
his superior, and one of his sons. Consolation, was
pronounced the handsomest specimen of his day.
A few years later the club imported Naso of Kippen,
a dog of pronounced character, who had a great
influence upon his breed. There was also a noted
field dog in St. Louis by the name of Sleaford, and
later a dog named Bow, a son of Price's Bang, which
was his equal in the field and his superior on the
bench. St. Louis sportsmen then imported Faust,
a magnificent animal both in appearance and in the
field. The dog, however, that made the greatest
impression on the breed was Croxtieth. He was not
particularly attractive in appearance, being on the
large order, generally coarse, ungraceful in action,
with a long, narrow head. He was fast in the field,
however, and his sons were better than their sire.
Among them may be mentioned Trinket, Trinket's
Bang, Ossian, Robert le Diable. The next dog to
be imported was Meteor, who was considerably
overestimated. He was followed by a symmetrical
dog named Graphic, that was widely advertised and
did considerable winning, but was of ordinary
ability. In the same kennel were Brackett, Meally,
and Lad of Bow. One of the latter's sons. Lad of
Rush, did considerable winning in the nineties.
Hempstead Farm Kennels imported Duke of Hesson,
and there was another dog named Tammany, that
did considerable winning about this time. The

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

blood, however, that made the greatest impression
upon our present-day dogs was a combination of the
old English Mike-Romp, the most conspicuous suc-
cess of this combination being Rip Rap, by King of
Kent-Hops. Among other great descendants of
King of Kent were Maid of Kent, Kent's Elgin,
Strideway, and Hal Pointer. Jingo, who was the
same blood as Rip Rap on his sire's side, and also
founded a family. Among his progeny are Young
Jingo, Lad of Jingo, Jingo's Pearl, Jingo's Boy,
Pearl's Dot, Syrano, and Two Spot, all names that
look well in Pointer pedigrees.

Following these dogs came Alfred's John, one of
the greatest bird dogs that has ever been seen at
American field trials. At one time there was some
uncertainty of his breeding, and while he left some
good sons and daughters, they were not regarded
with the favor of those that we have previously
mentioned.

Another dog that made a great impression upon
the breed was Fishel's Frank, a consistent winner
all over the country, and whose son, Comanche
Frank, ran some celebrated races, eventually be-
came a double champion, and whose daughter,
Mary Montrose, was the first bird dog to win the
Edward Dexter cup. She was brought out and
handled by Robert Armstrong, a son of Edward
Armstrong, who won the first field trial ever run in
England.

The Pointer standard is as follows:

Skull. — Of good size, but not as heavy as in the

lOO

GUN DOGS

old Spanish Pointer, and in a lesser degree his half-
breed descendants. It should be wider across the
ear than that of the Setter, with the forehead rising
well at the brows, showing a decided stop. A full
development of the occipital protuberance is in-
dispensable, and the upper surface should be in two
slight rounded flats, with a furrow between.

Nose. — Long (4 inches to 4^^ inches) and broad,
with widely opened nostrils. The end must be
moist, and in good health is cold to the touch. It
should be black or very dark brown in all but the
lemons and whites, but in them it may be a deep
flesh color. It should be cut ofi^ square and not
pointed — known as the "snipe nose" or "pig jaw."
Teeth meeting evenly.

Ears, Eyes, and Lips. — Ears soft in coat, mod-
erately long and thin in leather, not folding like the
Hound's, but lying flat and close to the cheeks, and
set on low, without any tendency to prick. Eyes
soft and of medium size; color brown, varying in
shade with that of the coat. Lips well developed
and frothing when in work, but not pendant nor
flew-like.

Neck. — ^Arched toward the head, long and round,
without any approach to dewlap or throatiness. It
should come out with a graceful sweep from be-
tween the shoulder blades.

Shoulders and Chest. — ^These are dependent on
each other for their formation. Thus, a wide and
looped chest cannot have the blades lying flat
against its sides; and consequently instead of this

lOI

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and their sloping backward, as they ought to do in
order to give free action, they are upright, short,
and fixed. Of course, a certain width is required to
give room for the lungs, but the volume required
should be obtained by depth rather than width.
Behind the blades the ribs should, however, be well
arched, but still deep; this last, depth of back ribs,
is especially important.

Back, Quarters, and Stifles. — ^These constitute
the main propellers of the machine, and on their
proper development the speed and power of the dog
depend. The loin should be very slightly arched
and full of muscle, which should run well over the
back ribs; the hips should be wide, with a tendency
even to ruggedness, and the quarters should droop
very slightly from them. These last must be full
of firm muscle, and the stifles should be well bent
and carried widely apart, so as to allow the hind-
legs to be brought well forward in the gallop, in-
stituting a form of action which does not tire.

Legs, Elbows, and Hocks. — ^These chiefly bony
parts, though merely the levers by which the muscles
act, must be strong enough to bear the strain given
them, and this must act in the straight line of pro-
gression. Substance of bone is therefore demanded,
not only in the shanks, but in the joints, the knees
and hocks being especially required to be bony.
The elbows should be well let down, giving a long
upper arm, and should not be turned in or out, the
latter being, however, the lesser fault of the two, as
the confined elbows limit the action considerably.

I02

GUN DOGS

The reverse is the case with the hocks, which may
be turned in rather than out, the former being gen-
erally accompanied by the wideness of stifles which
I have already insisted on. Both hind and fore
pastern should be short, nearly upright, and full of
bone.

Feet. — All-important; for, however strong and
fast the action may be, if the feet are not well shaped
and the horny covering hard, the dog will soon be-
come footsore when at work, and then will refuse
to leave his master's heels, however high his courage
may be. Breeders have long disputed the com-
paratively good quality of the round, catlike foot
and the long one resembling that of a hare. In the
Pointer my own opinion is in favor of the cat foot,
with the toes well arched and close together. This
is the consideratum of the M. F. H., and I think
stands work better than the hare foot, in which the
toes are not arched, but still lie close together. In
the Setter the greater amount of hair to a certain
extent condones the inherent weakness of the hare
foot; but in the Pointer no such superiority can be
claimed. The main point, however, is the closeness
of the pads, compared with the thickness of the
horny covering.

Stern. — Strong in bone at the root, but should
at once be reduced in size as it leaves the body, and
then gradually taper to a point like a bee's sting.
It should be very slightly curved, carried a little
above the line of the back, and without the slightest
approach to a curl at the tip.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Symmetry and Quality. — ^The Pointer should
display goodly proportion, no dog showing more
difference between the "gentleman" and his oppo-
site. It is impossible to analyze the essentials, but
every judge carries the knowledge with him.

Texture. — ^The coat in the Pointer should be
soft and mellow, but not absolutely silky.

jCoLOR. — ^There is now little choice, in point of
fashion, between the liver and the lemon whites.
After them come the black and whites (with or
without tan), then the pure black, and lastly the
pure liver. Dark liver-ticked is, perhaps, the most
beautiful color of all to the eye.

Value of Points. — Skull, lo; nose, lo; ears,
eyes, and lips, 4; neck, 6; shoulders and chest, 15;
back quarters and stifles, 15; legs, elbows, and
hocks, 12; feet, 3; stern, 5; symmetry and quality,
7; texture of coat, 3; color, 10. Total, 100.

THE ENGLISH SETTER

The English Setter is one of the handsomest of
sporting dogs. Their abundant coats give them an
advantage over the Pointer in facing cold, wet,
windy weather, or brambles and briars in a rough
country. Their admirers also claim they possess
more dash and vim, do not thicken up so quickly
with age as the Pointer, and that they improve in
their work from year to year. The picture pre-
sented by a well-bred Setter with soft, expressive
eye, low-set ear, head chiseled on classic lines, clean-
cut neck, graceful outline, and attractive coat and

104

GUN DOGS

coloring, leaves nothing to be desired in point of
beauty. In addition, they possess the sweetest and
most companionable of dispositions.

The modem Setter is said to be descended from
Spaniels which had been trained to stop and set
the birds instead of flushing them. The time and
place, however, where this first occurred is shrouded
in obscurity. The excellences of our present-day
Setters can be attributed largely to Edward Lave-
rack. This gentleman, about 1825, secured a brace
of Setters, Ponto and Old Moll, from the Rev. Mr.
Harrison, of Carlisle. These dogs he mated, their
progeny in turn were interbred, and this formulae
of breeding was continued for upward of fifty years,
in the course of which time Mr. Laverack created a
strain of Setters bearing his name, which were as
famous for their field qualities as for their beauty.

The types of all breeds of dogs have been de-
termined almost entirely by bench shows, and if
these had been the only influence that had operated
upon the English Setter family, there would be but
one recognized type of English Setter. This, how-
ever, is not the case, for half a century ago, just
about the time that bench shows were getting upon
a sound basis, practical sportsmen in both Europe
and America instituted field trials for Bird Dogs.
These contests have enjoyed a remarkable vogue,
and as a result we have had bench show Setter
fanciers developing a type of Setter which expressed
their ideals of what an English Setter should be,
and another group of field trial men devoting all of

105

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

their attention to developing field qualities with an
entire disregard for size, color, general type, con-
formation, and other things that the bench-show
men hold most dear. The only question that con-
cerned the field-trial man was utility, his only
standard "the survival of the fittest."

The conclusions that men arrive at in writing a
bench-show standard as to how a practical working
dog should be built and how his head should be sup-
ported on his neck or his shoulders placed in rela-
tionship to his body, is more or less whimsical and
subject to change. There is no way of determining
that which is right and that which is wrong. There
is always danger of overemphasizing the importance
of some point at the expense of others and losing
sight of the fact that under the laws of correlation it is
impossible to change one point without changing all
others to a greater or less degree.

The field-trial men have never permitted details of
conformation to detract from their single object of
practical performance. As a result of the operation
of the law of the survival of the fittest, a field trial
type has been evolved that is easily recognized,
and breeds truer to type than the bench-show dogs
that have been fashioned in response to the opinions
of men who were without means for determining the
accuracy of their judgment. The bench-show win-
ning Setter to-day is a very elegant animal, but no
more so than the field trial dog, with every element
of utility expressed in his countenance, written in
his frame, and recorded in his pedigree.

io6

GUN DOGS

The bench-show Setters of to-day have a Laverack
foundation. Half a century ago this was more or
less mixed with native blood, which disappeared
before rapid importations of dogs from abroad.
These early importations were nearly all Laverack,
or at least the Laverack strain predominated.
Those that followed them were often mixed with
other Old English Setter strains, and all of them were
distinguished by much grace and beauty, par-
ticularly in coat, color, and general outline. Many
of them had been bench-show winners abroad and
a few had appeared at English field trials. Occa-
sionally they were placed in America, but on the
whole they were all lacking the speed, dash, en-
durance, and unquenchable spirit necessary to win
American stakes. Their names are regarded with
disfavor in field trial pedigrees.

Among the first Laverack dogs to be brought to
this country were: Pride of the Border and Fairy;
then came Emperor Fred and Thunder; Plantagenet
and Foreman were prominent in bench shows in
the early '8o's, and shortly afterward Rockingham,
Princess Beatrice, Count Howard, Monk of Furness,
and Cora of Wither all had the center of the stage.
In the '90's Albert's Ranger was attracting a good
deal of attention, and later came Mallwyd, Sirdar,
Stylish Sargent, Dido B, Bloomfield Racket, Blue
Bell, Moll O'Leck, Meg O'Leck, Stylish Bell Bonner.
All of these dogs while attractive in appearance
lacked rugged character and the well-balanced pro-
portions of the field-trial strain. Most of them were

107

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

bred in England or were descended from dogs of
English breeding which, although they might have
proven fairly satisfactory workmen under old coun-
try conditions, were unable to cope either in speed,
style, endurance, or quick, snappy way of working
with the field-trial type.

The history of the field trial strain is as follows:
About the time the Laverack strain of Setters were
in their zenith in England, Mr. R. L. Purcell Llew-
ellin, who for several years had been experimenting
with various families of setters, purchased a num-
ber of Mr. Laverack's best dogs of the pure Dash-
Moll and Dash-Lill Laverack blood. These Lave-
racks he crossed with some entirely new blood, which
he obtained in the north of England, represented by
Mr. Statter's and Sir Vincent Corbet's strain since
referred to as the Duke-Rhaebes, the latter being
the two most prominent members of this blood.

The result of these crosses was eminently suc-
cessful, particularly at field trials, and swept every-
thing before them. Their reputation spread to
America, and many were purchased by sportsmen
in different sections of the United States and Can-
ada, so that this line of breeding soon became firmly
established in this country.

The name that stands out most conspicuously in
the foundation of the field-trial Setter in America is
Count Noble. This dog was purchased from Mr.
Llewellin by Dave Samborn, of Dowling, Michigan,
who, after trying him out on the prairies, was on
the point of returning him to England, but was per-

lo8

GUN DOGS

suaded not to do so by the late B. F. Wilson, of
Pittsburgh. The character and qualities that Sam-
born objected to were those to which Mr. Wilson
attached the highest importance. On the death
of Mr. Samborn, Count passed into the hands of
Mr. Wilson, who gave him opportunity to demon-
strate his sterling qualities and his reputation was
soon established from coast to coast.

The body of this famous dog, mounted, is now in
the Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh, where it is vis-
ited annually by many sportsmen. Other famous
names are: Gladstone, Sue, Druid, Ruby and
Gath and their descendants; Bohemian Girl, Rod-
erigo, Gath's Hope, Gath's Mark, Count Gladstone
IV, Antonio, Tony Boy, Geneva, Mohawk, Lady's
Count Gladstone, Rodfield, and Count Whitestone
II. Thousands of the descendants of these famous
dogs are scattered all over the country, and many
of them in field trials have perpetuated the fame of
this branch of the Setter family. The men who for
half a century have owned and bred and raised them
have always been deeply concerned with the abso-
lute purity of the line of breeding of their dogs, and
have never tolerated an out-cross of any kind and
object to a dog whose reputation is based solely
upon some bench-show performance.

The question of formation, weight, and color
have always been of minor importance. Every-
thing has been predicated upon their performance
in the field, and as a result of this devotion to the
single standard of utility they have succeeded in
s 109

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

establishing a general type easily recognized, but
for which no standard has ever been written.

The standard of the bench-show Setter as ap-
proved by the English Setter Club of America is
as follows:

Head, Eyes, and Ears. — ^The form of the skull
is an . eminent characteristic. It should be long,
with moderate dome, with but little difference be-
tween the width at the base of the skull and the
brows, and with a moderately defined occipital
protuberance.

The brows should be at a sharp and decided angle
from the muzzle.

The stop should be well defined and clean-cut,
with a slight furrow between the eyes.

The muzzle should be long, fairly square, of width
in harmony with the skull, and without any fullness
under the eyes.

The lips should not be too full nor too pendant.

Between the eyes and point of the nose the line
of the muzzle should be straight; a dish-face or
Roman nose is objectionable.

The nose should be black or dark liver in color,
except in white, lemon-and-white, orange-and-white,
or liver-and-white dogs, when it may be of lighter
color. The nostrils should be wide apart and large
in the openings.

The jaws should be of equal length; an overshot
or undershot jaw is objectionable.

The ears should be carried closely, hung well
back and set low; of moderate length, slightly

GUN DOGS

rounded at the ends; the leather thin and soft and
clothed with silky hair.

As a whole, though avoiding extremes, the head
should be light rather than heavy, clean-cut, and of
length and size in harmony with the body.

The eyes should be bright, mild, intelligent, and
of a dark-brown color.

Neck. — ^The neck should be long and lean,
arched at the crest, and not too throaty.

Shoulders, Chest, and Ribs. — The shoulders
and chest should not be too heavy; they should be
formed to permit perfect freedom of action to the
forelegs.

The shoulder blades should be long, wide, sloping
well back, and standing moderately close together
at the top.

The chest between the shoulder blades should be
of good depth, but excessive width at this point is
objectionable.

Back of the shoulders the ribs should spring
gradually to the middle of the body, and then
gradually lessen to the back ribs, which should
have good depth.

Back, Loin, and Hips. — ^The back should be
strong at its junction with the loin, sloping upward
in a slight rise to the top of the shoulders, the whole
forming a graceful outline of medium length; any
sway or drop in the back is objectionable.

The loin should be strong, with moderate length,
slightly arched, but not to the extent of being
roached or wheel-backed.

Ill

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The hip bones should be wide apart and without
too sudden droop to the root of the tail.

Forelegs. — ^The arm should be flat, muscular,
strong, with bone fully developed, and with muscles
hard and devoid of flabbiness; of good length from
the point of the shoulder to the elbow; well let down
at such angle as will bring the legs fairly under the
dog.

The elbows should have no tendency to turn
either in or out.

The pastern should be short, strong, and nearly
round, with the slope from the pastern joint to the
foot, deviating slightly from the perpendicular.

HiNDLEGS. — The hindlegs should have wide,
muscular thighs, with well-developed lower thighs.

The stifles should be well bent and strong.

The hocks should be wide and flat; the cow hock
is to be avoided.

The pastern should be short, strong, and nearly
round, with the slope from the pastern joint to the
foot deviating slightly from the perpendicular.

Feet. — ^The feet should be closely set and strong,
pads well developed and tough, toes well arched
and protected with short, thick hair.

They should point straight from rear to front.

Stern. — The stern should taper to a fine point,
with only length enough to reach the hocks, or less;
the feather must be straight and silky, falling loosely
in a fringe and tapering to the point when the tail
is raised; there must be no bushiness whatever. It
should not curl sideways above the level of the back.

112

Irish Setter, Ch. Tyronne Paddy.

English Setter, Count Whitestone.

Pointer, Ch. Mary Montrose.

^mmmammmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

GUN DOGS

Coat. — The coat should be flat and of moderate
length, without curl; not too long or soft or woolly.
The feather on the legs should be thin and regular.

Weight, Size, Color, and Markings. — Weight:
Dogs, about forty to forty-five pounds; bitches,
thirty-five to fifty pounds.

Height: Dogs, about twenty-two to twenty-
three inches; bitches, twenty-one to twenty-two
inches.

Colors: Black, white and tan; black and white;
blue belton; lemon and white; lemon belton; orange
and white; orange belton; liver and white; liver
belton, and solid white.

Marking: Dogs without heavy patches of color
on the body, but flecked all over preferred.

Symmetry. — The harmony of all the parts is to
be considered. Symmetrical dogs will be slightly
higher at the shoulders than at the hips. The judge
is specially directed to look for balance and har-
mony of proportions and an appearance of breeding
and quality, and to avoid massiveness and coarse-
ness.

Movement and Carriage. — ^An easy, free, and
graceful carriage, suggesting rapidity and endurance.

A merry tail (whipping from side to side) and a
high carriage of head.

Stiltiness, clumsiness, or a lumbering gait are
objectionable.

Value of Points. — ^Head, eyes, and ears, 12;
neck, 4; shoulders, chest, and ribs, 14; back, loin,
and hips, 12; forelegs, 10; hindlegs, 12; feet, 6;

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stern, 3; coat, 3; weight, size, color, and markings,
3; symmetry, 5; movement and carriage, 16. Total,
100.

THE IRISH SETTER

The Irish Setter by most authorities is conceded
to be the purest bred member of the bird dog family.
This is singular, in view of the fact that very little
is known about his origin, and while he is frequently
alluded to by writers of a century or more ago,
they have failed to tell what kind of a dog he was
either in color or form. In all probability he was a
red-and-white dog; a smart, active animal, full of
courage, tireless energy, inclined to be headstrong,
and with a nose quite as good as any other dog used
for a similar purpose. The American Irish Setter
of forty years ago was of this stamp, a favorite
among sportsmen, and a successful competitor at
the early field trials. In those days there was no
particular praze for coat or coloring, and no crit-
icism was aimed at dogs of a light red color or those
with white markings, so long as they were cour-
ageous and capable workmen in the field. With the
advent of dog shows came a demand in the standards
for a dark red, mahogany-colored coat. A yellowish
coat was not tolerated, and bench-show judges
looked with disfavor upon dogs with white mark-
ings, no matter how useful they might be in other
respects. As a result fanciers bred largely for color.
Workmanlike qualities were forgotten, and al-

114

GUN DOGS

though they succeeded in getting beautiful dark,
rich, solid red dogs, it was at the expense of their
utilitarian qualities, and the Irish Setter, once a
reckless daredevil, frequently headstrong and diffi-
cult dog to break, became so timid that many of
them would not stand training.

That the Irish Setter is a beautiful dog ho one will
deny, but if he is to regain his former laurels as a
field dog, the demand for a certain color and shade
of coat must be forgotten, and dogs must be bred
largely on account of their field merits alone.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Irish Setter puppies at from two to four months old
and after are almost identical with those of the
English Setter, with color added, which should, of
course, be a deep red.

The following is the published description and
standard of points of the Irish Red Setter Club:

Head. — Should be long and lean. The skull oval
(from ear to ear), having plenty of brain room, and
with well-defined occipital protuberance. Brows
raised, showing stop. The muzzle moderately deep
and fairly square at end. From the stop to the
point of the nose should be long, the nostrils wide,
and the jaws of nearly equal length, flews not to
be pendulous. The color of the nose dark mahogany
or dark walnut, and that of the eyes (which ought
not to be too large), rich hazel or brown. The ears to
be of moderate size, fine in texture, set on low, well
back, and hanging in a neat fold close to head.

IIS

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Neck. — Should be moderately long, very mus-
cular, but not too thick, slightly arched, free from
all tendency to throatiness.

Body. — Should be long. Shoulders fine at the
points, deep and sloping well back. The chest as
deep as possible, rather narrow in front. The ribs
well sprung, leaving plenty of lung room. Loins
muscular and slightly arched. The hindquarters
wide and powerful.

Legs and Feet. — The hindlegs from hip to hock
should be long and muscular; from hock to heel,
short and strong. The stifle and hock joints well
bent, and not inclined either in or out. The fore-
legs should be straight and sinewy, having plenty of
bone, with elbows free, well let down, and, like the
hocks, not inclined either in or out. The feet small,
very firm; toes strong, close together, and arched.

Tail. — Should be of moderate length, set on
rather low; strong at root and tapering to a fine
point; to be carried as nearly as possible on a level
with or below the back.

Coat. — On the head, front of legs, and tips of
ears should be short and fine; but on all other parts
of the body and legs it ought to be of moderate
length, flat, and as free as possible from curl or
waves.

Feathering. — ^The feather on the upper portion
of the ears should be long and silky; on the back of
the fore and hind legs long and fine; a fair amount
of hair on the belly, forming a nice fringe, which
may extend on chest and throat. Feet to be well

ii6

GUN DOGS

feathered between toes. Tail to have a nice fringe
of moderately long hair, decreasing in length as it
approaches the point. All feathering to be as
straight and flat as possible.

Color and Markings. — ^The color should be a
rich golden chestnut, with no trace whatever of
black; white on chest, throat, or toes, or a small
star on the forehead, or a narrow streak or blaze
on the nose or face not to disqualify.

Value of Points. — Head, lo; eyes, 6; ears, 4;
neck, 4; body, 20; hind legs and feet, lO; fore legs
and feet, lO; tail, 4; coat and feather, lO; color, 8;
size, style, and general appearance, 14. Total, 100.

THE GORDON SETTER

This handsome breed of Setters derive their name
from the Dukes of Gordon, who owned a most
important kennel of black-and-tan and black-white-
and-tan Setters at a period considerably in advance
of dog shows. No claim is made that the Dukes of
Gordon originated the breed, and it has also been
conclusively proven that they were not responsible
for the prejudice against white markings which was
developed at bench shows after classes were pro-
vided for them in 1861, which resulted in complete
elimination of those specimens containing white in
any form.

The early history of the Gordon Setter is wrapped
in much mystery, considering the fact that they are
of comparatively recent origin. A great many
writers have stated that in the early days of the

117

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

breed the Duke crossed one of his best dogs on a
black-and-tan Collie named Maddy which lived on
the estate and was remarkably clever in finding
grouse. It is said that she did not point them, her
habit being to stop and watch the birds as soon as
she had them located. It is conceded, even by those
who deny the authenticity of this story, that occa-
sionally one sees the tail of the Collie in strains that
trace back to the Duke's kennel, and it is also
notable that many Gordon Setters display in work-
ing birds a desire to go round their game, just as a
Collie goes round a flock of sheep.

Another theory is that the breed is the result of
crossing the ordinary Setter on the leggy, black
Springing Spaniel. There is a similarity in the
physiognomy of the Gordon Setter and the Field
Spaniel, and the latter in early days was a leggy dog
of Setter-like type, so that this cross could have
been made without affecting the working character-
istics of the Setter. This is a plausible explanation
of the dog's origin.

Still another theory provides that the black-and-
tan Setter has been produced by a cross with the
Irish Setter and the black Pointer, which latter is a
Scotch product. This likewise is more feasible than
the Collie story. All of the explanations are, how-
ever, mere conjecture, and there exists no definite
or conclusive information on the subject.

At the present time the breed no longer exists in
purity at the Gordon estates. The dogs there now
arc heavily crossed with the Laverack and other

Ii8

GUN DOGS

strains. They lack sufficient speed for present-day
field trials, but make steady, reliable shooting dogs,
as they have splendid noses and biddable disposi-
tions. Their strikingly handsome coloring and in-
telligence commend them to many people.

In selecting Gordon Setter puppies the usual
Setter points should be looked for, such as long
head; square muzzle; well-developed occipital bone;
short body; deep chest; straight forelegs; short,
straight tail, and the typical black-and-tan mark-
ings, the tan of a rich, dark mahogany.

In general appearance the Gordon Setter differs
from his English cousin, in that he is heavier all
over, showing strength rather than speed in his
makeup. His skull is broad between the ears,
slightly rounded, with well-developed occiput. Muz-
zle well carried out to a well-developed nose, show-
ing no snipiness or pinched appearance. Lips and
flews should be heavier than those of the English
Setter. Eyes dark, with rather a bold look; ears
well let down, so as to show the formation of the
skull, and, not too heavily feathered. The coat is
usually shorter and stronger than that of the English
Setter, and must be entirely devoid of curl. The
black should not under any circumstances show
brown or rustiness, but be dense, jet black; the tan
should be deep, rich mahogany. The tan should be
carried a trifle above the foreleg and should be
sharply defined where it meets the black. Black
pencilings should appear on the knuckles; on the
hindlegs the insides should be tan, also the inner

119

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

portion of the breeching and the same color should
show slightly down the front of the stifle. The hind
pasterns and the hind feet should be penciled like
the fore feet. On the head the tan should not ex-
tend too far up the lips toward the top of the muzzle,
but about half way. The underjaw and throat
should be tan, a spot on each cheek and above each
eye, and there should also be tan on the inside of
the ears. There should be no running together of
colors, but the edges should be clear and well defined.
Value of Points. — ^Head and neck, 25; neck, 5;
shoulders and body, 25; legs and feet, 15; stern or
tail, 5; color and markings, 25. Total, 100.

THE GRIFFON

The Pointing Griffon is distinguished from the
Griffon Hound, from which he undoubtedly sprang.
They are mentioned as far back as the sixteenth
century, and paintings and drawings of the seven-
teenth and eighteenth represent them practically as
they are to-day.

The celebrated artist, Percival L. Rosseau, who
has had much to do with their introduction in this
country, in discussing them in an article which he
wrote for Forest and Stream a few years ago,
says:

"A race of dogs that has survived for four cen-
turies must have remarkable qualities, and the
Griffon is par excellence a dog for swamps and rough
country. His coat affords protection from cold and
dampness, thorns and briars, and as a mixed-game

120

GUN DOGS

dog for any shooting in rough country he has no
superior.

"As a race they are built more for strength and
endurance than for speed, although individuals
under favorable conditions have shown as good
speed and range as any other breed of bird dog.
They are at their best, however, in close, careful
ranging, covering the roughest ground thoroughly,
and in America are especially adapted to grouse,
woodcock, and snipe shooting. They are natural
retrievers on land and water, easily broken to any
kind of game, and their puppies show a higher
average of nose and hunting qualities than any other
existing breed of dogs. The sportsmen who love
rough shooting and derive their greatest pleasure
from a mixed bag will find the GriflFon admirably
adapted to their purpose."

The following standard has been adopted for all
Wire-haired Pointing Griffons:

Head. — Big and long; hair rough and thick, not
too long, but with mustache and eyebrows well
marked; skull not too wide; nose long and square;
stop not too pronounced.

Ears. — Medium, flat, not wrinkled, placed not
too low; hair short, slightly mixed with long wire
hair.

Eyes. — ^Large, not covered by eyebrows; color,
yellow or brown; expression, always intelligent.

Nose. — ^Always brown.

Neck. — Fairly long and straight.

Chest. — Deep, not too wide.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Height. — Males, 22 to 24 inches; females, 20 to
22 inches.

Shoulders. — Fairly long and oblique.

Ribs. — Well arched.

Forelegs. — Straight and vigorous; hair thick
and rough.

Hindlegs. — ^Hair thick and rough; thighs long
and well muscled; hocks well turned.

Back. — Vigorous loins, thick and strong.

Feet. — Round and firm; toes well closed.

Tail. — Carried horizontally, point slightly raised;
hair thick but not feathered; docked generally one-
third to one-half.

Coat. — Color preferable, steel-gray with liver
marking or liver mixed with white or roan; ad-
mitted also, white-and-liver and white-and-orange.

Hair. — Hard and rough, resembling somewhat
pig bristles; never curly or woolly; undercoat fine
and downy.

122

RETRIEVERS

THE CHESAPEAKE BAY DOG

These splendid retrievers are the only sporting
dogs which have a clear claim to the distinction of
being absolutely American. They are native to the
shores of the historic Chesapeake Bay, and have a
racial tree that considerably antedates the period of
dog shows.

There are a number of stories in regard to their
origin. Among them are two recorded in Forest and
Stream nearly half a century ago:

One is that a vessel from Newfoundland ran
aground near an estate called Walnut Grove, on
the shores of the Chesapeake. On board the ship
were two Newfoundland dogs which were given by
the captain to Mr. Law, the owner of the estate, in
return for the kindness and hospitality shown him
and his crew. It is claimed that a cross between
these two Newfoundlands and the common yellow-
and-tan hound of that part of the country was the
origin of the Chesapeake Bay Dog.

Another story is that about the year 1807 the
good ship Canton^ of Baltimore, fell in at sea with
an English brig bound from Newfoundland to Eng-
land that had met disaster and was in a sinking
condition. The crew were taken aboard the Cantotiy
also a pair of puppies that eventually became the
property of the captain of the Canton^ and by him

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

were taken to Baltimore. The dog puppy, a dingy
red in color, was named Sailor, and the bitch, black
in color, was called Canton. Both of these dogs
eventually attained great reputations as duck re-
trievers, and Sailor and Canton are said to be the
foundation of the breed. This all may be so, for
there is no doubt that as a retriever of dead and
wounded ducks no dog equals the Chesapeake. His
brave heart, unlimited powers of endurance, and
dense coat fit him eminently for braving the roughest
weather. Nothing daunts him, and a good specimen
of the breed will swim for miles in a rough sea
covered with broken ice after a wounded bird. It
is one of the few breeds that has always been kept
pure, and although at one time it was confined
largely to the duck marshes on the Maryland coast,
to-day there are good specimens in various parts
of the country.

The Chesapeake standard is as follows:

Head. — Skull broad and round, with a medium
stop; nose medium, short-muzzle pointed, but not
sharp. Lips thin, not pendulous. Ears small, set
well up on head, hanging loosely, and of medium
leather; eyes medium large, very clear, of yellowish
color, and wide apart.

Neck. — Of moderate length, with a strong mus-
cular appearance; tapering to shoulders.

Shoulders, Chest, and Body. — Shoulders slop-
ing, and should have full liberty of action, with
plenty of power without any restrictions of move-
ment. Chest strong, deep, and wide. Barrel round

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RETRIEVERS

and deep. Body of medium length, neither cobby
nor roached, but rather approaching hoUowness;
flank well tucked up.

Back Quarters and Stifles. — Back quarters
should be a trifle higher than shoulders; they should
show fully as much power as forequarters. There
should be no tendency to weakness in either fore- or
hindquarters.

Legs, Elbows, Hocks, and Feet. — Legs should
be medium length and straight, showing good bone
and muscle, with well-webbed hare foot of good size.
Toes well rounded and close pasterns slightly bent,
and both pasterns and hocks medium length; the
straighter the legs the better.

Stern. — Tail should be medium length, varying
from: males, 12 inches to 15 inches, and females
from II inches to 14 inches; medium heavy at base,
moderate feathering on stern and tail permis-
sible.

Coat and Texture. — Coat should be thick and
short, nowhere over one and one-half inches long,
with a dense, fine, woolly undercoat. Hair on face
and legs should be very short and straight, with
tendency to wave on the shoulders, neck, back, and
loins only. The curly coat or coat with a tendency
to curl not permissible.

Color. — Should be as near dead grass as possible,
varying from a tan to a faded brown. The dark-
brown or liver color is not permissible, the dead
grass color being correct. A white spot on breast or
toes permissible.

• 125

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Weight. — Males, 65 to 75 pounds; females, 55 to
65 pounds.

Height. — Males, 23 inches to 26 inches; females,
21 inches to 24 inches.

Symmetry and Quality. — ^The Chesapeake Dog
should show a bright, happy disposition and an
intelligent expression, with general outlines good and
denoting a worker.

Color and coat is extremely important, as the
dog is used for duck hunting. The color must be
as nearly that of his surroundings as possible, and
with the fact that dogs are exposed to all kinds of
adverse weather conditions, often working in ice
and snow, the color of coat and its texture must be
given every consideration when judging on the
bench or in the ring.

Value of Points. — ^Head, including lips, ears,
and eyes, 12; neck, 8; shoulders, 10; back quarters
and stifles, 12; elbow, legs, and feet, lO; stem, 6;
symmetry and quality, 10; coat and texture, 13;
color, 13; tail, 6. Total, 100.

THE IRISH WATER SPANIEL

As to the origin of the Irish Water Spaniel there
is very little authentic information. Mr. McCarthy
seems to have been one of, if not the first, exhibitor
of the breed and a successful one, although the Irish
Water Spaniel was previously kept largely in Ireland
for sporting purposes and a valued member of
"Ireland's Reds"— Red Setter, Red Spaniel, Red
Terrier, Red Wolfhound.

126

RETRIEVERS

The most feasible theory of his origin is a cross
between the Poodle and the Irish Setter. There is
much in common in type and character between the
Poodle and Irish Water Spaniel — viz., in coat, con-
formation, head, and general character, while in
disposition the dog inherits all the dash and de-
termination of the Irish Setter, and partakes of his
color, which we can quite understand would be
deepened by crossing in again to the Poodle. The
Irish Water Spaniel partakes, too, of the great in-
telligence of the Poodle, who, although regarded as
a trick and fancy dog, will hunt and retrieve on
land or water with most Spaniels. The breed has
never made the progress with the public that it
merited by their many good qualities. They are
smart and upstanding in appearance, combining in-
teUigence and endurance with a dashing tempera-
ment that make them charming companions. They
are also splendid guards for children; will play with
them by the hour and act as their guards in time of
danger.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Water Spaniel puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: A clean head, dark eye, long
ears, short back, short whip tail, good size and bone,
straight forelegs, and a dark, close coat.

The following description and scale of points is
followed by bench-show judges:

Head (value lo) is by no means long, with very
little brow, but moderately wide. It is covered with
curls, rather longer and more open than those of

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the body nearly to the eyes, but not so as to be
wigged like the poodle.

Face and Eyes (io) are very peculiar. Face
very long and quite bare of curl, the hair being short
and smooth, though not glossy; nose broad and
nostrils well developed; teeth strong and level; eyes
small and set, almost flush, without eyebrows.

Topknot (io) is a characteristic of the true breed,
and is estimated accordingly. It should fall be-
tween and over the eyes in a peaked form.

Ears (io) are long, the leather extending, when
drawn forward, a little beyond the nose, and the
curls with which they are clothed two or three inches
beyond. The whole of the ears are thickly covered
with curls, which gradually lengthen toward the
tips.

Chest and Shoulders (7>^). — ^There is nothing
remarkable about these points, which must, never-
theless, be of sufficient dimensions and muscularity.
The chest is small compared with most breeds of
similar substance.

Back and Quarters (j}4) also have no pecu-
liarity, but the stifles are almost always straight,
giving an appearance of legginess.

Legs and Feet (io). — ^The legs should be straight
and the feet large but strong; the toes are some-
what open, and covered with shorty crisp curls. In
all dogs of this breed the legs are thickly clothed
with short curls, slightly pendent behind and at the
sides, and some have them all around, Hanging in
ringlets for some time before the annual shedding.

128

RETRIEVERS

No feather like that of the Setter should be shown.
The front of the hindlegs below the hocks is always
bare.

Tail (io) is very thick at the root, where it is
clothed with very short hair. Beyond the root,
however, the hair is perfectly short, so as to look as
if the tail had been clipped, which it sometimes
fraudulently is at shows, but the natural bareness
of the tail is a true character of the breed.

Coat (io) is composed of short curls of hair, not
woolly, which betrays the Poodle cross. A soft,
flossy coat is objected to as indicative of an ad-
mixture with some of the land Spaniels.

Color (io) must be a deep pure liver, without
white; but, as in other breeds, a white toe will oc-
casionally appear with the best litter.

Symmetry (5) of this dog is very great.

THE FLAT-COATED RETRIEVER

There are three varieties of the Retriever — the
curly-coated, the flat-coated (formerly described as
the wavy-coated), and the Labrador. The first and
last named are the two oldest varieties, the flat-
coated dog being of modern manufacture — ^in all
likelihood the product of the two, with a splash of
Spaniel, Newfoundland, or Setter.

As to the real origin of the Curly-coated Re-
triever there is no authentic information, but there
can be little doubt that he has been manufactured
by a cross with the Poodle, the Irish Water Spaniel,
and the Newfoundland, Labrador, or Setter. When

129

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and by whom he was first evolved, however, it is
impossible to say, beyond pointing to the fact of
his existence at the end of the eighteenth and be-
ginning of the nineteenth century, as shown by old
prints and paintings, which was certainly before the
advent of the flat-coated variety, either as a sport-
ing or bench-show dog.

Be that as it may, we have the dog before us
whose features are quite distinct from any other
variety, and which have long been thoroughly rec-
ognized. Indeed, at one time the Curly-coated Re-
triever was by far the most popular of the three
varieties, but he has been somewhat supplanted in
the aflfections of the devotees of this breed by the
flat-coat. Still a large number of shooting as well
as show men hang tenaciously to the curly-coat,
and declare that in all that goes to constitute an all-
round sporting dog he stands without his equal in
the field.

The main reason the dog has lost some favor with
sportsmen is: first, because of the trouble involved
in keeping his coat in order, more particularly for
the show bench; and secondly, because he has been
to a great extent supplanted by his flat-coated
relative.

In size, head, and general conformation, the flat-
coated variety differs but little from the curly-coat.
The points and features are all practically the same,
the only real difference being in coat. This, as
already stated, should be flat, the outer coat rather
harsh to the touch, there being an undercoat for

130

RETRIEVERS

warmth, the outer one being for weather resistance.
The legs, both before and aft, and the tail should be
feathered, and the feet protected by well-feathered
pads.

In breeding flat-coated Retrievers the object is to
produce a strong, well-made, useful dog, showing
quality — a workman in architecture, with the finish
of a gentleman. Length of head, good shoulders, a
strong loin and quarters, with straight forelegs, and
a flat coat are the chief points to aim at and pre-
serve. The flat-coats have rarely the same spring
of rib as the curly-coats, in which they reveal their
unmistakable Setter ancestry; but this should be
cultivated. Light eyes are a prevailing defect in
the flat-coats, and should be avoided as much as
possible, as it is invariably an indication of un-
certain temper or a headstrong disposition.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
flat-coated Retriever puppies at from two to four
months old and after, are: A long, level head, free
from lippiness; dark eye; nicely balanced skull
small ears set close to side of head; short back
short, straight tail; deep chest; well sprung ribs
straight forelegs; well boned, and a flat, close, dense
coat.

CURLY-COATED RETRIEVER

The Curly-coated Retriever is a much older breed
than the Flat-coat, which has to a great extent dis-
placed him in the aflfections of the public. The
Flat-coat has a Setter or Spaniel ancestry, while the

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progenitor of the Curly-coat was undoubtedly a
Poodle, a breed at one time plentiful in England
and used for sporting purposes.

The Curly-coated Retriever is a beautiful dog,
and many of them as workmen are the equal of the
Flat-coats. They are fully as intelligent, but are
believed to be slightly inferior in nose, naturally
harder mouthed, and more difficult to train and
handle.

The only physical difference of importance be-
tween the two breeds lies in the character of their
coats, that of the typical Curly-coat being a close
fitting, inseparable nigger curl, each knot being
solid, and the small locks and curls so close together
as to be impervious to water. All parts of the body
should be covered as if clothed in astrachan from the
occiput to the tip of the tail. The curls on the head
should finish in a straight line across the occiput,
the hair on the face being short and smooth.

The coat requires a good deal of attention. It
should never be combed or brushed. If the old coat
does not shed it should be carefully pulled out, and
open-coated dogs, which do not grow the short,
crisp curl, should be clipped all over with horse
clippers, as that usually induces the new coat to
come out stronger and more tightly curled.

In selecting Curly-coated Retrievers look for the
conformation and points that distinguish the short,
crisp coat typical of this breed.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Curly-coated Retriever puppies at from two to

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RETRIEVERS

four months old and after are identical with those
of the flat-coated variety, except the coat, which
should be short and crisp at the age given. This
description of coat is most likely to develop into
the small, tight curls so desirable.

The Curly-coated Retriever Club publishes the
following standard and scale of points:

Head. — ^Long and narrow for the length.

Ears. — Rather small, set on low, lying close to
the head, and covered with short curls.

Jaws. — ^Long and strong, free from lippiness, with
good, sound teeth.

Nose. — ^Wide-open nostrils, moist and black.

Eyes. — Dark, cannot be too dark, rather large,
showing great intelligence and splendid temper; a
full Pug eye an objection.

Coat. — Should be one mass of short, crisp curls
from the occiput to the point of tail; a saddle-back,
or patch of uncurled hair behind shoulders and
white patch on chest should be penalized; but few
white hairs allowed in an otherwise good dog.
Color, black or liver.

Neck. — ^Long, graceful, but muscular and well

E laced and free from throatiness, such as a Blood-
ound.

Shoulders. — Very deep, muscular, and obliquely
placed.
Chest. — Not too wide, but decidedly deep.
BoDV. — Rather short, muscular, and well ribbed up.
Legs. — Forelegs straight, with plenty of bone;
not too long, and set weU under body.

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Feet. — Round and compact, with toes well
arched.

Loin. — Powerful, deep, and firm to the grasp.

Tail. — Should be carried pretty straight, and
covered with short curls, tapering toward tip.

General Appearance. — A strong, smart dog,
moderately low on leg, active, lively, beaming with
intelligence and expression.

Value of Points. — ^Head, lo; jaws, 5; eyes, 5;
neck, 5; chest, 5; legs, 5; loins, lO; ears, 5; nose, 5;
coat, 15; shoulders, 5; body, 5; feet, 5; tail, 5; gen-
eral appearance, 10. Total, 100.

LABRADOR

This breed of dogs is a compatriot of the New-
foundland, and although they have played an im-
portant part in the evolution of the Flat-coated
Retriever, one of the most important sporting dogs
in Britain, they have never succeeded in attracting
much attention to themselves.

The Labrador is a sort of Smooth-coated New-
foundland in disposition and character, and a Flat-
coated Retriever in appearance. Their names in-
dicate their origin. The breed first made its appear-
ance at those maritime towns in England that were
engaged in the fishing industry with Newfoundland.
There is no question about this breed being one of
the most intelligent of all dogs, lending themselves
promptly to all useful purposes. They are extremely
courageous and industrious, and are unsurpassed for
amiability and faithfulness. Their rough-and-ready

134

RETRIEVERS

appearance indicative of endurance, and their keen
powers of scent were at once recognized by sports-
men, but they have not attracted the attention of
the fanciers, and the breed is in practically the same
position that it was over half a century ago.

There is no club for the Labrador either in this
country or in England; consequently there is no
fixed standard. It is, however, generally agreed
that it should follow closely the standard for Flat-
coated Retrievers, with the exception that the
Labrador should be slightly smaller in size and
lower on leg. The head should also be thicker and
the muzzle squarer. The coat should be as smooth,
also shorter and denser. The Labrador runs to light
eyes. This should not be considered an objection.
The Labrador is frequently used for out-crosses on
Flat-coated Retrievers that have been too closely
inbred.

135

WORKING SPANIELS

THE SPANIEL FAMILY

The name borne by this family of beautiful dogs
indicates that the parent stock came from Spain.
In response to special environment or to gratify the
fancy of breeders, or bred to serve useful purposes,
they have since divided into several important
groups.

Just when the Spaniel came to England it is
impossible to say, for while the early writers refer
to Water Dogges and Water Spaniels, their descrip-
tions are so lacking in clarity that it is impossible
to form an opinion that is free from reservations.

The fact that many of the older writers refer to
the presence among English sportsmen of a dog
used for retrieving wild fowl that was known as the
Water Dogge, has prompted writers to jump to the
conclusion that this dog was the parent Spaniel
type. This is a great mistake. The Water Dogge
was not a true Spaniel, but on the contrary was de-
scended from the French Barbet, the ancestor of
the Poodle. This early Water Dogge, if old pictures
and engravings are to be believed, was quite similar
to the modern Irish Water Spaniel and presented
the same general confirmation, coat, and topknot.
It is probable that both are of Barbet ancestry;
certainly the Irish Water Spaniel is not of true
Spaniel type.

136

WORKING SPANIELS

The old English Water Spaniel, the progenitor of
the modern family of Spaniels, was a distinct breed.
Early paintings portray him as being much like the
Springer of to-day, differing principally in the char-
acter of his coat, which was curly. The old English
Water Spaniel was crossed occasionally with other
breeds and the progeny mated with careful selec-
tion, and from them we have derived the various
families of modern Springers, Field Spaniels, Cockers,
Sussex, Welch, and diminutive toys. Some of these
breeds are useful to the sportsman, others are simply
pets; but from the forty-pound Springer to the five-
pound toy, they all resemble each other in marked
amiability of character and unusual intelligence.

Another important branch of the old English
Water Spaniel breed is the setter family. All setters
are of Spaniel origin, and early writers refer to the
setting Spaniel in contradistinction to those that
sprang in and flushed the game, which were known
as Springers. There is also another breed of dogs
mentioned by Cuvier and other authorities, as the
Alpine Spaniel. This dog is said to have been the
progenitor of the St. Bernard and the Clumber.
However this may be, there is no question but what
there is a similarity in coloration between the
Clumber and the St. Bernard, as well as a further
resemblance in their massive structure and peculi-
arities of the head, eyes, and flews.

The Old English Water Spaniel broke up into the
several groups of Spaniels we have enumerated, but
unfortunately while the breeds were being created

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

the parent breed was lost. There have been several
attempts to resurrect the parent type without much
success, and nothing can be said about them other
than that in appearance they probably resembled
the modem Springer, the principal difference being
a curlier coat. Like him, they were a useful dog
that would hunt fur or feather and retrieve from
land or water.

THE ENGLISH SPRINGER

This is probably the prototype of the whole of
the sporting Spaniel family. Some of the earliest
records speak of the "Springing Spaniel," and he is
no doubt a contemporary of the "Setting Spaniel,"
the two dogs doubtless being the only Spaniels in
existence at one period. They were probably much
the same in type and conformation, the former
being taught to "spring" at his quarry in flushing
it, and the other to "set" it; hence the distinction.
From the latter the Setter was doubtless evolved,
and from the "Springing Spaniel" the whole of the
beautiful varieties we now possess have emanated,
leaving the original a derelict on the sands of time.
It is probably incorrect to say that the old English
Springer has ever become extinct, for although he
never gained a footing on the English show bench
until very recently, when, through the instrumen-
tality of Mr. W. Arkwright and the Sporting Spaniel
Society, the Kennel Club was induced to place him
on the register, yet he has been kept in his purity in
many shooting kennels in different parts of the

138

WORKING SPANIELS

country, the owners of which have preferred utility
to beauty, ignoring what they have termed
"elongated monstrosities" of the show ring.

The English Springer is, with the Norfolk Spaniel,
one of the most rational dogs in point of architecture
of all the Spaniel varieties, viewed from the vantage
point of utility. He may be any color almost, and
is a leggy dog in comparison to the Field Spaniels,
with a short and more symmetrical body, straight
front, flat coat, a long head, a square muzzle, rather
narrow skull, and low-set ears. His eyes and ex-
pression, gait and feathering are distinctly Spaniel.
He combines strength with activity, courage with
docility, and all the characteristics of a workman.
He is a dog of from 40 to 50 pounds in weight.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
English Springer puppies at from two to four
months old and after, are: A long head, lean skull,
distinct stop, square muzzle, short, well-balanced
body, straight forelegs, longer in proportion than
the Field Spaniel, flat coat, down-carried tail.

The following description appears in British
Dogs:

Skull. — ^Long and slightly arched on top; fairly
broad, with a stop, and well-developed temples.

Jaws. — ^Long and broad, not snipy, with plenty
of thin lip.

Eyes. — Medium size, not too full, but bright and
intelligent, of a rich brown.

Ears. — ^Long, low set, and lobular in shape.

Neck. — Long, strong, and slightly arched.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Shoulders. — ^Long and sloping.

Forelegs. — Of a fair, moderate length, strong
boned and straight.

Body. — Strong, with well-sprung ribs; good girth,
and chest deep and fairly broad.

Loin. — Rather long, strong, and slightly arched.

Hindquarters. — ^Very muscular; hocks well let
down, stifles moderately bent, and not twisted in-
ward or outward.

Feet. — Rather large, round, and hairy.

Stern. — ^Low-carried, not above the level of the
back.

Coat. — Thick, firm, and smooth or slightly wavy;
it must not be too long. The feathering must be
moderate on the ears and scanty, but continued down
to the heel.

Color. — Black, liver, yellow, as self-colors, and
pied or mottled with white or tan or both.

General Appearance. — An active, compact dog,
upstanding, but by no means stilty. His height at
shoulder should about equal his length from the
top of the withers to the root of the tail.

THE FIELD SPANIEL

This is one of the most popular varieties of the
Sporting Spaniel, and to all intents and purposes
is, in its present form, a modern creation, dating
from somewhere about the advent of dog shows.
The Field Spaniel is lower on leg and longer in body
in proportion than any other Spaniel. This an-
atomical formation in the first place had its origin

140

WORKING SPANIELS

in the production of a Spaniel better adapted for
getting under gorse and brushwood than was the
Springer and a dog that was less active than
the Cocker. It is from these two older varieties,
with an admixture of the Sussex, that the beautiful
Field Spaniels of to-day, in all their pretty colors,
were first evolved. The colors are black-and-tan,
black, liver, liver-and-tan, black-and-white, black-
tan-and-white, liver-roan, blue-roan, etc. The blacks
at one time were the most popular, but the craze
for great length of body and lowness on leg was
carried to such extremes that the breed at once
degenerated into little less than elongated mon-
strosities. It lost the beautiful chiseling of head,
at least in many of the specimens exhibited, and
straightness of forelegs, and the activity which all
sporting Spaniels should possess more or less. A
reaction among sporting men set in, and, owing to
their efforts and those of the Sporting Spaniel Club,
happily the heavy-headed, crooked-fronted, and
sluggish crocodile-like pattern are now happily al-
most obsolete.

We have to-day, too, a more rational type of dog,
one that possesses all the features of an animal well
fitted to perform the work originally prescribed for
him, and yet free from the abnormalities which so
disfigured the dog at one stage of his career.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
puppies at from two to four months old and after
of all the varieties of Field Spaniels, black and
colored, are practically identical, and are: A long

10 141

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

head, narrow skull, distinct stop; square muzzle,
long body, flat back, short legs, the forelegs being
straight and showing great bone, with a flat coat
and down-carried tail.

The following description standard and scale of
points has been adopted by the Spaniel Club:

General Appearance. — Considerably larger,
heavier, and stronger in build than the "Cocker," the
modern "Field Spaniel," is more active and animated
than the "Clumber," and has little of the sober
sedateness characteristic of the latter. He should
exhibit courage and determination in his carriage
and action as well as liveliness of temperament,
though not in this respect to the same restless de-
gree generally possessed by the "Cocker." His
conformation should be long and low, more so than
the "Cocker."

Intelligence, obedience, and good nature should
be strongly evident. The colors most preferred are
solid black or liver, but liver-and-white, black-and-
white, black-and-tan, orange, and orange-and-white
are all legitimate Spaniel colors.

Head (value 15.) — ^Long and not too wide, elegant
and shapely, and carried gracefully; skull showing
clearly-cut brows, but without a very pronounced
"stop;" occiput distinct and rising considerably
above the set-on of the ears; muzzle long with well-
developed nose, not too thick immediately in front
of the eye, and maintaining nearly the same breadth
to the point; sufficient flew to give a certain square-
ness to the muzzle and avoid snipiness or wedginess

142

WORKING SPANIELS

of face; teeth sound and regular; eyes intelligent in
expression and dark, not showing the haw, nor so
large as to be prominent or goggle-eyed.

Ears (io) should be long and hung low on the
skull, lobe-shaped and covered with straight or
slightly wavy silky feather.

Neck (5) long, graceful, and free from throati-
ness, tapering toward the head; not too thick, but
strongly set into shoulders and brisket.

Shoulders and Arms (10). — ^The shoulder blades
should lie obliquely and with sufficient looseness of
attachment to give freedom to the forearms, which
should be well let down.

Legs and Feet (15). — ^The forelegs should be
straight, very strong and short; hindlegs should be
well bent at the stifle joint, with plenty of muscular
power: Feet should be of good size, with thick,
well-developed pads, not flat or spreading.

Body and Quarters (20) long, with well-sprung
ribs; strong, slightly arching loins, well coupled to
the quarters, which may droop slightly toward the
stem.

Coat and Feather (15). — ^The coat should be as
straight and flat as possible, silky in texture, of
sufficient denseness to afford good protection to the
skin in thorny coverts, and moderately long. The
feather should be long and ample, straight or very
slightly wavy, heavily fringing the ears, back or
fore legs, between the toes, and on back quarters.

Tail (10) should be strong and carried not hfgher
than the level of the back.

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THE COCKER SPANIEL

The Cocker Spaniel, unlike the field varieties, is
free from any abnormalities, being a rationally built
and symmetrical little dog, full of buoyancy and
beaming with intelligence, and of tireless energy.
Those features and characteristics in the dog ac-
count for his popularity.

As to his origin there is the same mystery, but
little doubt exists that the Cocker is among the most
ancient of the Spaniel family. He derives the name
from the fact that he was first used as an aid to the
gun in shooting woodcocks, being a handy little dog
in getting through the dense thickets and bramble,
while as a retriever he has probably not his equal
for nose and cleverness. At all the leading shows
in America the Cocker section is a very large one,
the classes numerous, and the interest in this merry
little sportsman probably keener than it is in Eng-
land. A few years ago this breed showed signs of
degenerating as sporting dogs, having drifted into
toyishness on the one hand and become too low on
leg in many cases, although, to the credit of breed-
ers it may be said, that the true type of the dog
was never lost.

Cockers even vary very much in size and type.
We have the Devonshire Cockers and the Welsh
Cockers, and others indigenous to diflferent dis-
tricts of the country to which they are more or less
adapted, but happily there is only one type now rec-
ognized in the show ring, and that is the short-

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WORKING SPANIELS

coupled, sturdy, well-balanced, good-fronted flat-
coated dog with a nicely chiseled head, dark eye,
and square muzzle, who looks like and is a work-
man from stem to stern, a dog of from 23 to 27
pounds.

The chief points, therefore, to aim at in breeding
Cocker Spaniels are compactness of body, straight-
ness of forelegs, squareness of muzzle, dark eyes,
and flat coats, with a down-carriage of stern. Com-
mon defects in the breed, especially the colored
variety, are crooked fronts, light eyes, and cock-
tails, which are an abomination alike to sporting
men and to good judges.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Cocker Spaniel puppies, any color, from two to
four months old and after, are: A nicely balanced
head, distinct stop, square muzzle, dark eye, short,
compact body; well balanced in proportion to
length of leg, down-carried tail and flat coat.

The Cocker Spaniel standard is as follows:

Skull (8). — ^Not so heavy as in other Sporting
Spaniels, with smooth forehead and clearly defined
eyebrows and stop, the median line distinctly
marked and gradually disappearing until lost rather
more than half way up a well-developed, rounded,
and comparatively wide skull, showing no prom-
inence in the cheeks, which, like the sides of the
muzzle, should present a smooth, clean-cut ap-
pearance.

Muzzle (io). — Proportionately shorter and lighter
than the Field Spaniel, showing no fullness under

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

the eyes, the jaws even and approaching square-
ness. Teeth sound and regular, the front ones
meeting. Lips cut off square, preventing any ap-
pearance of snipiness. Nose well developed in all
directions and black in color excepting in the reds,
livers, parti-colors of these shades, and in roans of
the lighter lines, when it may be brown or black.

Eyes (7). — Comparatively larger, round, rather
full, yet never goggled nor weak, as in the toy
Spaniel kinds. They should be dark in the blacks,
black-and-tans, the darker shades of parti-colors
and roans. In the reds and livers and in the parti-
colors and roans of these colors they should be
brown, but of a shade not lighter than hazel.

Ears (4). — ^Lobular, set low, leather fine, and not
extending beyond the nose; well clothed with long,
silky hair, which should be straight or wavy.

Neck and Shoulders (15). — ^Neck sufficiently
long to allow the nose to reach the ground easily,
muscular, free from throatiness, and running into
clean-cut, sloping shoulders, which should not be
wide at the points.

Body (18). — Comparatively short, compact, and
firmly knit together, giving the impression of a
concentration of power and untiring activity. Chest
deep rather than wide, not narrow-fronted nor yet
so wide as to interfere with free action of the fore-
legs. Ribs well sprung, deep, and carried far back;
short in the coupling and flank, free from any
tucked appearance. Back and loin immensely
strong and compact in proportion to the size of the

146

WORKING SPANIELS

dog, the former level and the latter slightly arched.
Hips wide, with quarters considerably rounded and
very muscular.

Legs and Feet (i8). — Forelegs short and straight,
though proportionately longer than in any of the
other breeds of short-legged Spaniels; strongly boned
and muscled, with elbows well let down and straight,
short, strong pasterns. Hindlegs proportionately
short. Stifles well bent, strong thighs clearly de-
fined. Hocks clean, strong, well let down, bent and
turning neither in nor out, the hindquarters from
a back view presenting an impressive combination
of propelling power. Feet neither small nor large,
round, firm, not spreading, and with deep, strong,
horny pads and plenty of hair between the toes.
They should turn neither in nor out.

Stern (5). — Should be set on and carried level
with the back, and when at work its action should
be incessant in this the brightest and merriest of the
whole Spaniel family.

Coat (10). — Flat or slightly waved, silky, and
very dense, with ample Setter-like feather.

Color and Markings (5). — Blacks should be jet
black and reds, livers, etc., should never be faded
or "washy" shades, but of good, sound colors, white
on the chest of self-colors, while objectionable,
should not disqualify.

Weight. — Not under 1 8 nor exceeding 24 pounds.

General Description. — A neat-headed, wide-
awake, serviceable-looking little dog with an ex-
pression of great intelligence; short in body when

147

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

viewed from above, yet standing over considerable
ground for one of his inches upon strong, straight
front legs, with wide, muscular quarters suggestive
of immense power, especially when viewed from
behind. A downward tendency in front he ought
not to possess, but should stand well up at the
shoulders like the clever little sporting dog that he
is. Massive in appearance by reason of his sturdy
body, powerful quarters, and strong, well-boned
limbs, he should nevertheless impress one as being
a dog capable of considerable speed, combined with
great powers of endurance, and in all his movements
he should be quick and merry, with an air of alert-
ness and a carriage of head and stern suggestive of
an inclination to work.

THE CLUMBER SPANIEL

This handsome and useful member of the Spaniel
family is of ancient lineage, and his solemn and
majestic aspect mark him as a true aristocrat of
long descent. The Clumbers are deserving of their
popularity with shooting men, for no dog is a more
capable assistant to the gun as they are by inclina-
tion the keenest and most persevering of hunters,
have the best of noses, and, considering their massive
build, have remarkable powers of endurance.

The Clumber Spaniel is easily trained, easily con-
trolled, and unusually intelligent. They take natu-
rally to retrieving, are good water dogs, and as all-
round workmen have no superiors.

There is a good deal of mystery about the origin

148

WORKING SPANIELS

of this breed, and history carries them back to the
middle of the eighteenth century. About that time
the French Due de Noailles presented a kennel of
Spaniels to the second Duke of Newcastle, whose
Nottinghamshire country place is known as Clum-
ber Park. Here the breed is said to have originated;
certainly it is here that it received its name.

There is no trace of their origin in France, for
there at the present day at least the Clumber is ac-
cepted as a purely English product. It has been
suggested that the Duke, finding that the Spaniels
that had been presented to him were too fast, re-
duced their pace by crossing them on some heavier
breed. What the cross or crosses were will never
be known, but the Clumber's general type, his
massive frame, powerful limbs, white coat with
lemon markings, and his solemn and majestic aspect
and demeanor suggest the St. Bernard. There is
also a theory that they owe their origin to a cross of
Baron Cuvier's Alpine Spaniel, a dog indirectly re-
lated to the St. Bernard.

The Clumber Spaniel has been very successful in
the English Spaniel trials, and the most convincing
evidence of their worth is the tenacity with which
the owners of old strains hang on to them and con-
tinue to breed and shoot over them year after year.

In selecting Clumber puppies look for short,
massive heads, square muzzles, well marked stop;
low-set, massive body of moderate length; big bone;
flat, dense coat; down-carried tail and pale orange
or lemon markings.

149

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The standard and value of points is as follows:

General Appearance and Size. — General ap-
pearance, a long, low, heavy-looking dog, of a very
thoughtful expression, betokening great intelligence.
Should have the appearance of great p)ower. Sedate
in all movements, but not clumsy. Weight, of dogs
averaging between 55 and 65 pounds; bitches, from
35 to 50 pounds.

Head. — ^Head large and massive in all its dimen-
sions; round above eyes, flat on the top, with a
furrow running from between the eyes up the
center. A marked stop and large occipital pro-
tuberance. Jaw long, broad, and deep. Lips of
upper jaw overhung. Muzzle not square, but at
the same time powerful-looking. Nostrils large,
open, and flesh-colored, sometimes cherry-colored.

Eyes. — Eyes large, soft, deep set, and showing
haw. Hazel in color, not too pale, with dignified
and intelligent expression.

EIars. — Ears long and broad at the top, turned
over on the front edge, vine-shaped, close to the
head; set on low and feathered only on the front
edge, and there but slightly. Hair short and silky,
without the slightest approach to wave or curl.

Neck and Shoulders. — ^Neck long, thick, and
powerful; free from dewlap, with a large rufF. Shoul-
ders immensely strong and muscular, giving a heavy
appearance in front.

Body and Quarters. — Body very long and low,
well ribbed up, and long in the coupling. Chest of
great depth and volume. Loin powerful and not

150

WORKING SPANIELS

too much arched. Back long, broad, and straight;
free from droop or bow. Length an important char-
acteristic, the nearer the dog is in length to being
two and one-half times his height at shoulder the
better. Quarters shapely and very muscular, neither
drooping nor stilty.

Legs and Feet. — Forelegs short, straight, and
immensely heavy in bone. Well in at elbow. Hind-
legs heavy in bone, but not as heavy as forelegs.
No feather below hocks, but thick hair on back of
legs just above foot. Feet large, compact, and
plentifully filled with hair between toes.

Coat and Feather. — Coat silky and straight,
not too long, extremely dense; feather long and
abundant.

Color and Markings. — Color, lemon and white,
and orange and white. Fewer markings on body
the better. Perfection of markings, solid lemon or
orange ears, evenly marked head and eyes, muzzle
and legs ticked.

Stern. — Stem set on a level and carried low.

Value of Points. — General appearance and size,
lo; head, 15; eyes, 5; ears, lO; neck and shoulders,
15; body and quarters, 20; legs and feet, lO; coat
and feather, 10; color and markings, 5. Total, 100.

THE SUSSEX SPANIEL

This handsome breed derives its name from the
county of Sussex, where it originated, or at least has
existed for many years. The Sussex is one of the
oldest of the Spaniel family. The breed, however,

151

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

have been kept pure only by excessive in-breeding,
which has impaired their constitutions. In conse-
quence puppies are often delicate and hard to raise,
but are hardy after they arrive at maturity.

The well-bred Sussex is a beautiful Spaniel, for
his symmetrical proportions are clothed in a rich
red coat that would lend distinction to any dog.
In the field they are most reliable workmen, some-
what slower to be sure than the leggier Springer,
but surpassing them in patience and perseverance.
They will force their way through the thickest cover
and allow nothing to escape them. They diflFer
from the rest of the Spaniels by giving tongue on
scent, and those who are accustomed to them can
tell by the difference in their tone whether they are
after fur or feather.

The modern Field Spaniel gets his size and weight
from the Sussex Spaniel, and in years gone by they
have undoubtedly been resorted to in developing
other breeds.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Sussex Spaniel puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: A short, massive head, square
muzzle, well-defined stop, lengthy body on short,
straight forelegs; great bone, flat coat of a deep
golden color, down-carried tail.

The descriptive particulars of this breed are as
follows :

Head. — ^The skull should be moderately long, and
also wide, with an indentation in the middle, and a
full stop; brows fairly heavy; occiput full but not

152

Clumber Spaniel, Hempstead Bingo.
Cocker Spaniel, BrookMde Marcus and Brookside Ariitocntt.

WORKING SPANIELS

pointed, the whole giving an appearance of heavi-
ness without dullness.

Eyes. — ^Hazel color, fairly large, soft and languish-
ing, not showing the haw overmuch.

Nose. — ^The muzzle should be about three inches
long, square, and the lips somewhat pendulous;
the nostrils well developed and liver color.

Ears. — ^Thick, fairly large, and lobe-shaped; set
modjerately low, but relatively not so low as in the
Black Field Spaniel; carried close to the head, and
furnished with soft, wavy hair.

Neck is rather short, strong, and slightly arched,
but not carrying the head much above the level oif
the back. There should not be much throatiness in
the skin, but well-marked frill in the coat.

Chest and Shoulders. — The chest is round, es-
pecially behind the shoulders, deep and wide, giving
a good girth. The shoulders should be oblique.

Back and Back Ribs. — ^The back and loin is
long, and should be very muscular, both in width
and depth; for this development the back ribs must
be deep. The whole body is characterized as low,
long, level, and strong.

Legs and Feet. — The arms and thighs must be
bony, as well as muscular, knees and hocks large
and round, and with short hair between the toes.
The legs should be very short and strong, with great
bone, and may show a slight bend in the forearm,
and be moderately well feathered. The hindlegs
should not be apparently shorter than the forelegs or
be too much bent at the hocks, so as to give a Settery

153

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

appearance, which is so objectionable. The hind-
legs should be well feathered above the hocks, but
should not have much hair below this point. The
hocks should be short and wide apart.

Tail should be docked from five to seven inches,
set low, and not carried above the level of the back;
thickly clothed and moderately long feather.

Coat. — Body coat abundant, flat, or slightly
waved, with no tendency to curl; moderately well
feathered on legs and stern, but clean below the
hocks.

Color. — Rich golden liver. This is a certain sign
of the purity of the breed, dark liver or puce denot-
ing unmistakably a recent cross with the black or
other variety Field Spaniels.

General Appearance. — Rather massive and mus-
cular, but with free movements and nice tail action,
denoting a tractable and cheerful disposition. Weight
from 35 to 45 pounds.

Value of Points. — ^Head, 10; eyes, 5; nose, 5;
ears, 10; neck, 5; chest and shoulders, 5; back and
back ribs, 10; legs and feet, lO; tail, 5; coat, 5;
color, 15; general appearance, 15. Total, 100.

THE WELSH SPRINGER

The Welsh Springer is a smart, active Spaniel,
more lightly built and smaller than Field Spaniels,
being very little larger than the Cocker. They are
invariably white in color, with red or deep orange
markings. They have beautifully chiseled heads,

154

WORKING SPANIELS

small Clumber-shaped ears, and are generally most
attractive.

The Welsh Springer is undoubtedly an old breed
that has been used by the sportsmen of Wales, who
refer to them not as Spaniels, but as Starters.
They are eminently sportsmanlike in appearance,
and have proven themselves to be capital workmen
in the field, so that their future popularity is as-
sured. They have made great headway on the
English benches, and their classes are well filled with
specimens of uniform type.

The Welsh Springer is a dog of from 30 to 40
pounds weight, proportionate in all his parts, with
a well-balanced head, straight front, grand spring of
rib, and powerful hindquarters. He may be de-
scribed as an enlarged Cocker, but shows less feather-
ing than is found in most of the other varieties, and
the ears are also shorter. As in all Spaniels, snipiness
and thick heads are common defects, and the Welsh
Springer is no exception. This said, the breed is at
once a rational one, and possesses all the traits of
his English cousin, while the uniformity of color and
its irregular distribution give to a gro.up of Welsh
Springers quite a picturesque appearance. In this
way the variety has made great headway on the
show bench and enlisted a number of enthusiasts
within its ranks, who are much devoted to the breed
not only for its general beauty, but also for its won-
derful prowess in the field.

The chief points to look for in the selection of

155

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Welsh Springer puppies at from two to four months
and after, are almost the same as those of the Eng-
lish Springer, the recognized color being, of course,
red-and-white.

The following is the description formulated by
the Welsh members of the Sporting Spaniel Society:

Skull. — Fairly long and fairly broad, slightly
rounded, with a stop at the eyes.

Jaws. — Medium length, narrow (when looked at
downwards), straight, fairly square, the nostrils
well developed, and flesh-colored or dark. A short,
chubby head is objectionable.

Eyes. — Hazel or dark brown, medium size, in-
telligent, not prominent nor sunken nor showing
haw.

Ears. — Comparatively small, covered with feather
not longer than the ear, set moderately low, and
hanging close to the cheeks.

Neck. — Strong, muscular, clean in throat.

Shoulders. — ^Long and sloping.

Forelegs. — Medium length, straight, good bone,
moderately feathered.

Body. — Strong, fairly deep, not long, well-sprung
ribs. Length of body should be proportionate to
that of leg.

Loin. — Muscular and strong, slightly arched, well
coupled up and knit together.

Hindquarters and Legs. — Strong; hocks well
let down; stifles moderately bent (not twisted in or
out), not feathered below the hock on the leg.

Feet. — Round, with thick pads.

156

WORKING SPANIELS

Stern. — Low, never carried above the level of
the back, feathered, and with a lively motion.

Coat. — Straight or flat, and thick.

Color. — Red or orange-and-white (red prefer-
able).

General Appearance. — Symmetrical, compact,
strong, merry, active, not stilty, built for endurance
and activity.

Weight. — Between 30 and 42 pounds.

IS7

WORKING TERRIERS

THE OLD ENGLISH BROKEN-HAIRED

TERRIER

This ancient English breed of working Terriers
is one of the few breeds for which a specialist club
does not exist, and there is a decided call for one
to save it from utter extinction. A quarter of a
century must have elapsed since a specimen of this
breed was exhibited. As a kennel terrier and com-
panion the name of the Old English Terrier is prom-
inent in the history of country sport, and he is
doubtless the progenitor of the more popular and
plentiful Fox Terrier.

The Black-and-Tan Broken-haired Old English
Terrier is a dog of very great antiquity. He appears
in some of the oldest prints and paintings, and no
sportsman^s establishment of the olden time was
considered complete without him. To-day his ranks
are thinned even in the hunting field, whilst he is
now nearly unknown on the show bench. Such a
sterling Terrier in make and shape, in hardihood
and grit should not be allowed to lapse into ob-
scurity. No breed either from the point of view of
antiquity, tradition, appearance, and utility was or
is more deserving of perpetuation. Those who know
agree that they possess traits to be cherished in the
heart of anyone who loves a dog for his worth and
not for what he would fetch in the market,

158

WORKING TERRIERS

Fox-Terriers and Airedales, two popular breeds
which have circled the world, owe most of their
Terrier traits, external and internal, to their part
progenitor, the Old English Broken-haired Terrier,
while the latter has almost entirely passed away.

The chief differences between the Old English
and the Welsh Terrier are in size, the latter being
a few pounds heavier. The Old English Terrier
had a long, strong, punishing jaw, level mouth, flat
skull, free from cheekiness, and a small, dark, de-
termined eye; good bone, coat hard to the touch;
colors, black-and-tan and grizzle-and-tan.

THE BLACK-AND-TAN TERRIER

There was a Black-and-Tan Terrier in England
before the days of dog shows, less graceful in out-
line and coarser in type, to be sure, than those of
to-day. These early dogs did not present the fancy
marks of penciled toes and dotted brows; their tan
was smutty, but nevertheless they were sound,
game, and useful dogs, the most accomplished of
rat killers whether in the pit or along water courses.

The Manchester district was a noted center for
two "poor men's sports" — rat killing and rabbit
coursing. A fancier by the name of John Hulme,
with the idea of producing a dog that could be used
at both contests, bred a whippet bitch to a cele-
brated rat-killing dog, a cross bred terrier dark brown
in color. The result of this cross was very satis-
factory, the dogs proved useful, and other fanciers
in the neighborhood took to breeding them, and the

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Manchester school of terriers was launched. They
advanced in popularity rapidly and soon spread
over the British Isles and were brought to this
country in considerable numbers. The name Man-
chester was dropped as being too restricted in its
design ation, and they have since been known as
the Black-and-Tan Terrier.

As a sagacious, intelligent pet and companion
and as a house dog, no breed is superior to the well-
bred Black-and-Tan. There is a sleek, well-bred
appearance about them that no other dog presents.
Their long, clean heads, keen expression, glossy
coat, whip tail, and smart, wide-awake appearance
always command attention. Their cleanly habits
and short coats also admit them to homes that shut
out their rough-haired brothers.

The Black-and-Tan Terrier, with all his refine-
ment, has lost none of his gameness. He is still
per se a vermin dog, unequaled and is capable of
holding his own in a rough-and-tumble scrap with
anything living of his weight.

In his early history the Black-and-Tan was a
cropped dog, and many still admire the alert ap-
pearance of a head well set off by a pair of well-
cropped ears. When the Kennel Club passed the
edict forbidding cropping many fanciers rebelled
and some gave up the breed. For a number of years
those that stuck to it had their work cut out for
them to get rid of the large, heavy ear that could be
trimmed long and fine with a certainty of its stand-
ing erect, and produce in its f)lace the small, thin

1 60

WORKING TERRIERS

ear which makes the best appearance when carried
semi-erect. Fanciers finally succeeded in breeding
them, and the Black-and-Tan will undoubtedly en-
joy a recurrence of popularity.

The toy Black-and Tan Terrier is probably more
popular to-day than its larger brother, from which
it differs only in size, being nothing more or less than
a vest-pocket edition. Its show points are the same.
It should be simply a miniature, the smaller the
better. The regulation weight is seven pounds, but
many specimens are under five.

In selecting Black-and-Tan Terriers, either large
or small, look for a long, flat head, free from stop;
a lean skull, small, dark eye; long neck, short back,
clean shoulders, straight forelegs, whip tail, and the
typical black, glossy coat with tan markings.

The following is the standard and scale of points:

Head. — Long, flat, and narrow, level and wedge-
shaped, without showing cheek muscles; well filled
up under the eyes, with tapering, tightly-lipped
jaws and level teeth.

Eyes. — Very small, sparkling, and dark, set
fairly close together, and oblong in shape.

Nose. — Black.

Ears. — ^The correct carriage of the ears is a de-
batable point since cropping has been abolished.
Probably in the larger breed the drop ear is correct,
but for toys either erect or semi-erect carriage of
the ear is most desirable.

Neck and Shoulders. — ^The neck should be
fairly long, and tapering from the shoulders to the

i6i

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

head) with sloping shoulders, the neck being free
from throatiness, and slightly arched at the occiput.

Chest. — ^Narrow but deep.

Body. — Moderately short and curving upward at
the loin; ribs well sprung, back slightly arched at
the loin and falling again at the joining of the tail
to the same height as the shoulders.

Legs. — Must be quite straight, set on well under
the dog, and of fair length.

Feet. — More inclined to be cat than hare-footed.

Tail. — Moderate length, and set on where the
arch of back ends; thick where it joins the body,
tapering to a point, and not carried higher than the
back.

Coat. — Close, smooth, short, and glossy.

Color. — ^Jet black and rich mahogany tan, dis-
tributed over the body as follows: On the head the
muzzle is tanned to the nose, which, with the nasal
bone, is jet black; there is also a bright spot on each
cheek and above each eye; the underjaw and throat
are tanned, and the hair inside the ear is of the same
color; the forelegs tanned up to the knees, with
black lines (pencil marks) up each toe, and a black
mark (thumb mark) above the foot; inside the hind-
legs tanned, but divided with black at the hock
joint; and under the tail also tanned; and so is the
vent, but only sufficiently to be easily covered by
the tail; also slightly tanned on each side of chest.
Tan outside of hindlegs — commonly called breech-
ing — is a serious defect. In all cases the black
should not run into the tan, or vice versa, but the

162

WORKING TERRIERS

division between the two colors should be well
defined.

General Appearance. — ^A Terrier calculated to
take his own part in the rat pit, and not of the Whip-
pet type.

Weight. — For toys not exceeding 7 pounds; for
the large breed, from 16 pounds to 20 pounds is
most desirable.

THE SMOOTH FOX TERRIER

The smart appearance, graceful conformation,
and attractive coloring of the Fox Terrier has made
him the most popular member of the Terrier family.

In tracing the origin of the breed, it is impossible
to go far into the past, the late 6o's apparently being
the starting point of the modern Fox Terrier. Just
what he sprung from is also a sealed book. Possibly
it was from the white English Terrier or the Black-
and-Tan Terrier crossed upon the Bull Terrier, or
the Beagle, and more probably it was from still more
heterogeneous sources.

The modern Fox Terrier was originated by Fox-
hound Masters, who wanted a game little sports-
man of uniform size and appearance to replace the
nondescript Terriers which were used to bolt the
fox that had gone to earth. Before this time any
dog that was plucky and whose size would permit
him to go to earth was known as a Fox Terrier, no
matter what his coat, color, or his general appear-
ance might be.

There are no Fox Terrier pedigrees which date

163

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

before the 6o's, and there is much doubt and ques-
tion connected with some since that time. In the
history of the breed there are three dogs which
stand out conspicuously, and from them the Fox
Terrier as a breed takes descent: Old Jock, Trap,
and Tartar. Of these Old Jock was undoubtedly
the best. He was exhibited as late as 1870, and was
said to have been a smart, well-balanced Terrier,
somewhat leggy and wanting in jaw power. Tartar
is said to have been much on the Bull Terrier type,
while old Trap's sire is said to have been a Black-
and-Tan. It is unquestionable from these ante-
cedents that breeders have produced the modem
Fox Terrier, a most impressive testimonial to their
genius.

The question arises whether the Fox Terrier of
to-day is as useful and intelligent as his prede-
cessors. If there is anything to his name Terrier,
derived from terruy the earth, he should be able to
go to ground. This is absolutely precluded by the
size of some of the dogs that are shown on the
benches, and one of the greatest dangers to the
breed lies in the leaning of judges toward the large
size, on the grounds of the oft-repeated aphorism
that a good big one is always better than a good
little one. The fact should never be lost sight of
that a Terrier who cannot go to earth is not a
Terrier.

In judging Fox Terriers both smooth and rough,
the following standard is used:

Head. — ^The skull should be flat and moderately

164

WORKING TERRIERS

narrow^ and gradually decreasing in width to the
eyes. Not much "stop" should be apparent, but
there should be more dip in the profile between the
forehead and top jaw than is seen in the case of a
Greyhound.

The cheeks must not be full.

The ears should be V-shaped and small, of mod-
erate thickness and drooping forward close to the
cheek, not hanging by the side of the head like a
Foxhound.

The jaw, upper and lower, should be strong and
muscular; should be of fair punishing strength^ but
not so in any way to resemble the Greyhound or
modern English Terrier. There should not be much
falling away below the eyes. This part of the head
should, however, be moderately chiseled out, so as
not to go down in a straight slope like a wedge.

The nose, toward which the muzzle must grad-
ually taper, should be black.

The eyes and the rims should be dark in color,
small, and rather deep set, full of fire, life, and in-
telligence; as nearly as possible circular-shape.

The teeth should be as nearly as possible to-
gether, I. e.y the upper teeth on the outside of the
lower teeth.

Neck. — Should be clean and muscular, without
throatiness, of fair length, and gradually widening
to the shoulders.

Shoulders. — Should be long and sloping, well
laid back, fine at the points and clearly cut at the
withers.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Chest. — Deep and not broad.

Back. — Should be short, straight, and strong,
with no appearance of slackness.

Loin. — Should be very powerful and very slightly
arched. The fore ribs should be moderately arched,
the back ribs deep, and the dog should be well
ribbed up.

Hindquarters. — Should be strong and muscular,
quite free from droop or crouch; the thighs long
and powerful; hocks near the ground, the dog stand-
ing well up on them like a Foxhound, and not
straight in the stifle.

Stern. — Should be set on rather high and carried
gaily, but not over the back or curled. It should be
of good strength, anything approaching a "pipe
stopper" tail being especially objectionable.

Legs. — ^Viewed in any direction must be straight,
showing little or no appearance of ankle in front.
They should be strong in bone throughout, short
and straight in pastern. Both fore- and hindlegs
should be carried straight forward in traveling,
the stifles not turned outward. The elbows should
hang perpendicularly to the body, working free of
the sides.

Feet. — Should be round, compact, and not large;
the soles hard and tough; the toes moderately
arched and turned neither in nor out.

Coat. — Should be smooth, flat, but hard, dense,
and abundant. The belly and under side of the
thighs should not be bare.

1 66

WORKING TERRIERS

Color. — White should predominate; brindle, red,
or liver markings are objectionable. Otherwise this
point is of little or no importance.

Symmetry, Size, and Character. — ^The dog
must present a generally gay, lively, and active ap-
pearance; bone and strength in a small compass are
essentials, but this must not be taken to mean that
a Fox Terrier should be cloggy or in any way coarse;
speed and endurance must be looked to as well as
power, and the Symmetry of the Foxhound taken
as a model. The Terrier, like the Hound, must on
no account be leggy, nor must he be too short in
the leg. He should stand like a cleverly-made
hunter, covering a lot of ground, yet with a short
back, as before stated. He will then attain the
highest degree of propelling power, together with
the greatest length of stride that is compatible with
the length of his body. Weight is not a certain
criterion of a Terrier's fitness for his work; general
shape, size, and contour are the main points; and if
a dog can gallop and stay and follow his fox up a
drain it matters little what his weight is to a pound
or so. Though, roughly speaking, it may be said
that he should not scale over twenty pounds in
show condition.

Value of Points. — ^Head and ears, 15; neck, 5;
shoulders and chest, 15; back and loin, 10; hind-
quarters, 5; stern, 5; legs and feet, 20; coat, 10;
symmetry and character, 15. Total, 100.

Disqualifying Points. — Nose: White, cherry,

167

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

or spotted to a considerable extent with either of
these colors. Ears: Prick, tulip, or rose. Mouth:
Much undershot or much overshot.

THE WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIER

The Wire-Haired Fox Terrier is identical with
his smooth-coated brother, with the single exception
of the character of his coat, which should be harder,
more wiry, and broken. This coat should not be so
long as to make his owner look shaggy, while a coat
that is soft and woolly or one that has a suggestion
of silky hair about the head or elsewhere cannot be
tolerated. The wiry, crisp, and heavy coat is the
only distinguishing trait of the breed, so too much
importance cannot be attached to its character. It
is not unusual to get both smooth and wire-coated
specimens out of one litter. For a number of years
the Smooth Coats had all the call, but of late the
Wires have been coming to the fore rapidly, al-
though their preparation for the ring — that is, the
trimming of their coats — is an annoying proposition
to many breeders. Practically all Wire-Haired Fox
Terriers require trimming, and the line between
legitimate trimming and faking — and consequent
disqualification — is very faint. Under the Kennel
Club Rules the free use of the brush and comb are
admissable. It is also legitimate to remove dead
coat or soft, superfluous hair or long, odd hair from
the head, ears, limbs, and body. This is done with
the thumb and forefinger and a special comb made
for that purpose. The use of clippers, however, to

i68

lti-

Jsl

ill
if?

WORKING TERRIERS

even up a coat or the application of rosin, alum, or
similar agents to stiiFen and harden the coat will, if
detected, lead to disbarment. It is a common prac-
tice, when a dog is not to be exhibited for some time,
to clip him all over, as this has a tendency to
strengthen and improve the coat. No objection can
be raised to this practice.

This variety of the breed should resemble the
smooth sort in every respect except the coat, which
should be broken. The harder and more wiry of
texture the coat is the better. On no account should
the dog look or feel woolly, and there should be no
silky hair about the poll or elsewhere. The coat
should not be too long, so as to give the dog a shaggy
appearance, but at the same time it should show a
marked and distinct difference all over from the
smooth species.

THE AIREDALE TERRIER

A few years ago there appeared at the dog shows
in the north of England a big, useful-looking sort
of a Terrier whose ancestors were a cross of the old
border Terrier, the Bull Terrier, and the Otter-
hound. They were known sometimes as the Water-
side Terrier, on account of their fondness for that
element, inherited from their Otterhound ancestors.
Later they were known as the Bradford Terrier.
These dogs were so workmanlike in appearance and
had such appealing countenances that they at-
tracted the attention of the public, and a club was
fr>rmed that promoted their interests and eventually

169

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

settled upon the name of Airedale Terrier, as they
were very numerous in the valley of that river.

Since then the breed has grown very rapidly in
public favor, and deservedly so, for they possess
many sterling qualities. The Airedale is the largest
of the Terrier family, and will do anything in the
way of hunting vermin but go to earth. This their
size precludes. They have excellent nose, and will
hunt all sorts of game, make splendid rabbit and
partridge dogs, can be trained to trail wounded
deer, and are used successfully in bear hunting.

The Airedale takes to water like a Spaniel, and
will retrieve ducks in all kinds of weather. As com-
panions they are unexcelled, displaying the utmost
devotion to their masters and an interest in all of
their affairs. They are wideawake about a house, and
take naturally to horses. No more useful breed
exists for a country home.

In buying one of these dogs do not take one that
is shy or listless. Don't accept one which is soft,
scanty, or long-coated. Don't take one which is
weak muzzled or chiseled out below the eye. Don't
choose one with a long back or heavy shoulders.
Don't take one which is out at the elbows or is not
perfectly straight in front or clean in bone. Don't
accept one which is light-eyed. Don't pick one
with weak ankles or splay feet. Don't have any-
thing to do with one which has a poor mouth or
which lacks in gameness. Don't choose one which
weighs under 38 pounds.

The chief points to look for in the selection of

170

WORKING TERRIERS

Airedale puppies at from two to four months old
and after, are: A long, level head, strong muzzle;
small, dark eye; narrow skull; neat, small, V-shaped
drop ears; a long neck, narrow shoulders, short body,
deep chest, straight forelegs, and hard, dense coat.

The standard description and points printed be-
low give readers a clear outline of what a perfect
Airedale Terrier ought to be:

Head (value 5). — Long, with flat skull, but not
too broad between the ears, narrowing slightly to
the eyes, free from wrinkle; stop hardly visible,
and cheeks free from fullness; jaw deep and power-
ful, well filled up before the eyes; lips tight.

Ears (5). — ^V-shaped, with a side carriage; small,
but not out of proportion to the size of the dog.

Nose (5). — Black.

Eyes (5). — Small and dark in color, not prom-
inent, and full of Terrier expression, with teeth
strong and level.

Neck (10). — Should be of moderate length and
thickness, gradually widening toward the shoulders
and free from throatiness.

Shoulders and Chest. — Shoulders long and slop-
ing well into the back; shoulder blades flat, chest
deep, but not broad.

Body and Back (10). — Short, strong, and straight;
ribs well sprung.

Hindquarters (10). — Strong and muscular, with
no drop; hocks well let down.

Tail. — Set on high and carried gaily, but not
curled over the back.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Legs and Feet. — ^Legs perfecdy straight, with
plenty of bone; feet small and round, with good
depth of pad.

Coat. — Hard and wiry, and not so long as to
appear ragged; it should be also straight and close,
covering the dog well over the body and legs.

Color (io). — ^The head and ears, with the excep-
tion of dark markings on each side of the skull,
should be tan, the ears being of a darker shade than
the rest, the legs up to the thighs and elbows being
tan; the body black or dark grizzle.

Size. — Dogs, 40 to 45 pounds weight; bitches,
slightly less.

Scale of Points. — Head, 5; eye, 5; color, lO;
ears, 5; body, loins, and hindquarters, 20; jaw, lO;
nose, 5; teeth, 5; legs and feet, lO; neck and shoul-
ders, IO; coat, 15. Total, 100.

THE BEDLINGTON TERRIER

This breed in appearance resembles a miniature
Deerhound. They originated among the sport-
loving miners and gypsies in the north of England,
who have bred them for a great many years, and
have produced a useful type of . dog of undeniable
gameness which will cheerfully tackle anything that
wears hair.

Their looks are against their ever becoming great
public favorites, but as all-around workmen in a
rough country for rabbit coursing, ferreting, and to
work to the gun, they are unequaled. They have
exceptionally keen noses, take readily to the water,

172

WORKING TERRIERS

are devoted to their masters, but are usually sus-
picious of strangers. They have many good qualities
which will recommend them to all those who admire
a game working Terrier.

In buying a Bedlington don't look at a short-
legged, stumpy-built dog, as they should be active
and of racy build. Don't pay any attention to one
with bad teeth or a large, full eye. Don't pick one
that has a thin, silky coat that would not protect
its owner from water or exposure to the elements.
Don't look at one with a full, rounded body and well-
sprung ribs, and, last of all, don't accept one which
is not game as a pebble and an energetic workman.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Bedlington puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: A long, snaky head; narrow
skull; small eye; drop ears, lying close to the side of
the head; short body; short sickle tail; straight fore-
legs, and dense lint coat.

The standard of the breed is as follows:

Skull. — Narrow, but deep and rounded; high at
occiput, and covered with a nice silky tuft or top-knot.

Jaw. — Long, tapering, sharp, and muscular; as
little stop as possible between the eyes, so as to
form nearly a line from the nose-end along the joint
of the skull to the occiput. The lips close-fitting,
and no flew.

Eyes. — Should be small and well sunk into the
head. The blues should have a dark eye; the blue-
and-tan ditto, with amber shade, livers, sandies,
etc., a light-brown eye.

11 173

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Nose. — ^Large, well angled. Blues and blue-and-
tans should have black noses; livers and sandies,
fleidi-colored noses.

Teeth. — Level, or pincer-j awed.

Ears. — Moderately large, carried well forward,
flat to the cheek, thinly covered and tipped with
fine, sjlky hair; they should be filbert-shaped.

Legs.— Of moderate length, not wide apart,
straight and square set, and with good-sized feet,
which are rather long.

Tail. — ^Thick at root, tapering to a point, slightly
feathered on lower side, 9 inches to 11 inches long,
and scimitar-shaped.

Neck and Shoulders. — Neck long, deep at base,
rising well from shoulders, which should be flat.

Body. — ^Long and well proportioned, flat-ribbed,
and deep; not wide in chest; back slightly arched,
well ribbed up, with light quarters.

Coat. — Hard, with close bottom, and not lying
flat to the sides.

Color. — Dark blue, blue-and-tan, liver, liver-
and-tan, sandy, sandy-and-tan.

Height. — ^About 15 to 16 inches.

General Appearance. — A lightly made up, lathy
dog, but not shelly.

Weight. — Dogs, about 24 pounds; bitches, about
22 pounds.

r\ 174

WORKING TERRIERS

THE SCOTTISH TERRIER

Scotland may truly be termed the land of Terriers.
A half a dozen or more breeds, all long and low, all
rough-coated, and all prick-eared except the Dandie,
hail from the land of heather, nor is it extraordinary
that Scotland should have so many varieties of
Terriers, for it is a country of cave and cleft and
cavern, in which Terriers have a wide sphere of
usefulness. Dogs, like man, are molded by en-
vironment, and it is easy to comprehend how a
rugged land would develop a rugged dog and a race
of men noted world-wide for their steadfast deter-
mination, deep-seated affection, and canny intelli-
gence naturally have as friends and companions a
race of dogs possessing all of their masters' sturdy
characteristics.

Scotland's Terrier is a proud title, but the dogs
that bear it are worthy of their name, for the Scot-
tish Terrier of to-day is a veritable paragon of game-
ness, intelligence, and all-around usefulness on land
or water, above or below ground; and with it all he
is the most sensible and intelligent of companions.

To dive deep into the antiquity of the Scottish
Terrier is simply to invite trouble, for the Scottish
are a touchy race on everything pertaining to birth
and pedigree. They are as loyal to their dogs as
they are to their clans. To suggest or intimate that
Scotland's dogs are not as old as their most cherished
traditions or that their blood is not as pure as the
water in their mountain lakes is sheer heresy. We

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

venture to say, however, that these grand little dogs
did not have their birth in any particular locality in
Scotland. They are indigenous to all the highlands
and descend from the old highland Terrier, a little,
long-backed, short-legged, snipy-faced, prick- or
crop-eared dog, in color mostly sandy-and-black,
game as a pebble, lively as a cricket, and in all a
most charming companion. The crosses that were
made on this parent stock many years ago were all
with the best of working Terriers. No breed of dogs
has been more carefully bred than the Scottish
Terrier, and to-day they are extraordinarily well
fixed in type and characteristics.

The enthusiasm expressed by admirers of the
breed is well founded. For ratting, ferreting, rabbit-
hunting, partridge-treeing, working along hedge-
rows or water courses, retrieving from land or water
and as all-around assistants to the gun, they are
unexcelled. They are cleanly about the house, ex-
traordinarily patient with children, the -best of
guards for house or barn, and distinguish intuitively
between the intruder and the casual observer or
occasional visitor.

In selecting puppies under four months of age,
look for a long, level head, a strong jaw, small,
dark eye; small, erect ears, carried closely together;
short, round body; short sickle tail; great bone;
straight forelegs, and a dense, hard coat.

The standard is as follows:

Skull (value 7>^). — Proportionately long, slightly
domed, and covered with short, hard hair about ^

176

WORKING TERRIERS

inches long or less. It should not be quite flat, as
there should be a sort of stop or drop between the
eyes.

Muzzle (j}4). — Very powerful, and gradually
tapering toward the nose, which should always be
black and of a good size. The jaws should be per-
fectly level and the teeth square, though the nose
projects somewhat over the mouth, which gives the
impression of the upper jaw being longer than the
under one.

Eyes (5). — ^A dark brown or hazel-color; small,
piercing, very bright, and rather sunken.

Ears (5). — ^Very small, prick or half-prick (the
former is preferable), but never drop. They should
also be sharp-pointed, and the hair on them should
not be long, but velvety, and they should not be
cut. The ears should be free from any fringe at
the top.

Neck (5). — Short, thick, and muscular, strongly
set on sloping shoulders.

Chest (5). — Broad in comparison to the size of
the dog, and proportionately deep.

Body (15). — Of moderate length, but not so long
as -a Skye's, and rather flat-sided; well ribbed up,
and exceedingly strong in hindquarters.

Legs and Feet (10). — Both fore- and hindlegs
should be short and very heavy in bone, the former
being straight and well set on under the body, as
the Scotch Terrier should not be out at elbows.
The hocks should be beat, and the thighs very mus-
cular, ajid the feet strong, small, and thickly covered

177

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

with short hair, the forefeet being larger than the
hind ones.

The Tail (2>^). — Should be about 7 inches long,
never docked, carried with a slight bend, and often
gaily.

The Coat (15). — Should be rather short (about
two inches), intensely hard and wiry in texture, and
very dense all over the body.

Size (10). — From 15 to 20 pounds, the best weight
being as near as possible 18 pounds for dogs and 16
pounds for bitches when in condition for work.

Color (2>^). — Steel or iron-grey, black-brindle,
brown-brindle, grey-brindle, black, sandy, and
wheaten. White markings are objectionable, and
can only be allowed on the chest, and to a small
extent.

General Appearance (10). — ^The face should
wear a very sharp, bright, and active expression,
and the head should be carried up. The dog, ow-
ing to the shortness of his coat, should appear to
be higher on the leg than he really is; but at the same
time he should look compact and possessed of great
muscle in his hindquarters. In fact, a Scottish
Terrier, though essentially a Terrier, cannot be too
powerfully put together, and should be from about
9 to 12 inches in height.

THE SKYE TERRIER

This is one of the oldest breeds in Scotland, hav-
ing its origin in the islands from which it now takes
its name. The breed was originally called Scottish

178

WORKING TERRIERS

Terrier. In fact, all of the Scottish varieties of
Terriers were first so designated. Dr. Caius, one of
the earliest writers on dogs, indicates the existence
and type of the Skye Terrier in his work "Englishe
Dogges." He describes them as "Iseland dogges,
brought out of barbarous borders from the utter-
most countryes northwards," and says that "they,
by reason of the length of their heare, show neither
of their face or their body, and yet these curres,
forsooth, because they are so strange, are greatly
set by, esteemed, taken up, and made of, in room of
the Spaniell gentle or comforter."

The Bishop of Ross, who wrote a little later in
the sixteenth century, says: "There is also another
kind of scenting dog of low height, but of bulkier
body, which, creeping into subterraneous burrows,
routs out foxes, badgers, martens, and wildcats
from their lurking places and dens," which doubt-
less referred to the ancestors of our modern Skye
Terriers.

Professor Low describes the dogs of the Island of
Skye as follows: "The Terriers of the western islands
of Scotland have long, lank hair almost trailing to
the ground." This breed has been brought to per-
fection as a show dog, but its enormous coat and the
size is a distinct disadvantage to the dog in pur-
suing his natural calling. Few, if any, show dogs
are used for actual work, and therefore it is needless
to decry the bench type which are calculated to
keep intact the distinctive features and charac-
teristics of this game, hard-bitten, and very hand-

179

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

some Terrier. The Skye Terrier is a most com-
panionable and faithful dog to those to whom he
attaches himself, although he is not, speaking gen-
erally, as open in disposition as his cousin, the
Scottie. He is one of the most snappish dogs that
goes to a show, and often dangerous to handle.
This surliness in the Skye is a natural characteristic,
probably inherited, the outcome of nervousness
created by the fact that he is buried in such long
thick hair that he can scarcely see.

The chief points to look for in Skye Terrier
puppies from two to four months old and after, are:
A long head; strong muzzle; dark eye; long body;
well-sprung ribs; deep chest; short, heavy-boned
legs, and a profuse coat of good texture. In the
prick-eared variety the ears should be bolt upright;
and in the drop-eared, the ears should fall forward
in the manner of other drop-eared Terriers.

The following is the standard laid down by the
Skye Terrier Club of Scotland:

Head. — ^Long, with powerful jaws, and incisive
teeth closing level, or upper just fitting over under.
Skull wide at front of brow, narrowing between
ears, and tapering gradually toward muzzle, with
little falling in between or behind the eyes. Eyes
hazel, medium size, close set. Muzzle always black.

Ears (prick or pendant). — ^When pricky not large,
erect at outer edges, and slanting toward each other
at inner, form peak to skull. When pendant^ larger,
hanging straight, lying flat, and close at front.

Body. — Pre-eminently long and low. Shoulders

1 80

WORKING TERRIERS

broad, chest deep, ribs well sprung and oval-shaped,
giving flattish appearance to sides. Hindquarters
and flank full and well developed. Back level and
slightly declining from top of hip joint to shoulders.
Neck long and gently crested.

Tail. — ^When hanging, upper half perpendicular,
under half thrown backward in a curve. When
raised, a prolongation of the incline of the back,
and not rising nor curling up.

Legs. — Short, straight, and muscular. No dew-
claws. Feet large and pointing forward.

Coat (double). — An under, short, close, soft, and
woolly. An over, long, averaging ^yi inches, hard,
straight, flat, and free from crisp or curl. Hair on
head shorter, softer, and veiling forehead and eyes;
on ears, overhanging inside, falling down and min-
gling with side locks, not heavily, but surrounding
the ear like a fringe, and allowing its shape to ap-
pear. Tail also gracefully feathered.

Color (any variety). — Dark or light-blue or grey,
or fawn with black points. Shade of head and legs
approximating that of body.

Size. — Average height at shoulder, 9 inches.

Weight. — Dogs, 18 pounds; bitches, 16 pounds.

THE CLYDESDALE TERRIER

This breed, originally exhibited as Skye Ter-
riers, are simply the more silky-haired specimens of
this variety. Skye Terrier enthusiasts have always
regarded them as bad-coated specimens, more fitted
for the drawing-room than the cairns, just as Fox

181

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Terrier experts would regard a soft-coated Wire-
Haired as a bad Fox Terrier. The silky-coated dog,
however, has his devotees, and along in the eighties
a division was made in the Skye Terrier classes, the
hard-coated, long and low variety being accorded,
by weight of public opinion, the tide of Skye Terrier,
to which their character, working fitness, and tra-
dition gave them an irresistible claim, while the
leggier and more silky-coated specimens were given
the name of Clydesdale or Paisley Terriers. Since
then the Clydesdale fanciers have developed the
differences in the two dogs and by selection have
cultivated the silkiness and lighter colors of the
coat, which they have made a sine qua non of the
variety. In all other essentials the character and
conformation of the two varieties are practically
one and the same. The coat of the Clydesdale
should be long, straight, and silky; in both texture,
color, and quality it should resemble that of the
best Yorkshire Terriers, which has been largely
used in its manufacture.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Clydesdale Terrier puppies are almost identical
with those of Skye Terriers.

The following is the standard description and code
of points formulated by the Skye and Clydesdale
Terrier Club, which is purely a Scottish combina-
tion, from which it will be seen that color and coat
absorb one-half of the complement of lOO points;

General Appearance. — A long, low, level dog
with heavily-fringed, erect ears and a long coat like

182

WORKING TERRIERS

the finest silk or spun glass, which hangs quite
straight and evenly down each side, a parting ex-
tending from the nose to the root of the tail.

Head. — Fairly long, skull flat and very narrow
between the ears, gradually widening toward the
eyes and tapering very slightly to the nose, which
must be black. The jaws strong and the teeth level.

Eyes. — Medium in size, dark in color; not prom-
inent, but having a sharp. Terrier-like expression.
Eyelids black.

Ears. — Small, set very high on the top of the
head, carried perfectly erect, and covered with
long, silky hair, hanging in a heavy fringe down the
sides of the head.

Body. — ^Long, deep in chest, well ribbed up, the
back being perfectly level.

Tail. — Perfectly straight, carried almost level
with the back, and heavily feathered.

Legs. — ^As short and straight as possible, well set
under the body, and entirely covered with silky
hair. Feet round and cat-like.

Coat, — ^As long and straight as possible, free from
all trace of curl or waviness; very glossy and silky
in texture, with an entire absence of undercoat.

Color. — ^A level bright steel-blue extending from
the back of the head to the root of the tail, and on
no account intermingled with any fawn, light, or
dark hairs. The head, legs, and feet should be a
clear, bright golden tan, free from grey, sooty, or
dark hairs. The tail should be very dark-blue or
black.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Scale or Points. — ^Texture of coat, 25; color, 25;
head, 10; ears, 10; tail, 10; body, lO; legs and feet,
10. Total, 100.

THE DANDIE DINMONT TERRIER

Originating on the borders of Scotland, and made
famous by Sir Walter Scott in his "Guy Manner-
ing," the Dandie partakes in type and character of
all of Scotland's Terriers, being short on leg and
long in body. His ears, however, are drooped in-
stead of being prick. Doubtless the Dandie and the
Border Terrier, which is a smaller dog with drop
ears, and with which the Dandie is often con-
founded, have a common origin. The Dandie un-
doubtedly was a Border Terrier previous to the ap-
pearance of Sir Walter Scott's novel, being kept by
such sporting personages as James Davidson, of
Hindlee, a friend of Scott's, who was the original
of the character of Dandie Dinmont, immortalized
by the novel.

The difference in type of the three Border Ter-
riers, the recognized Border Terrier (who may or
may not be the original), the Bedlington, and the
Dandie, is due to breeding by selection and to cross-
ing. The Dandie is the one breed who retains most
of his Scottish ancestry in body conformation and
in head, and his fusion with the English broken-
haired terriers is seen in his drop ears. Prick ears
are characteristic of all the Scottish varieties of
terriers; drop ears are a fixed feature of their English
cousins.

184

t TC

111

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m

WORKING TERRIERS

Some Dandie Dinmont enthusiasts pride them-
selves on the purity of their strains, for which they
allege they can claim direct descent through the
Terriers of Mr. E. Bradshaw Smith, of Ecclefechan,
a great enthusiast of the breed in the early and middle
part of the nineteenth century, or those of Hugh
Purvis, or direct to the "Guy Mannering" dogs.
Such descent in no way denotes purity, because, it
is alleged, for instance, that Purvis crossed his
dogs more than once with a brindled Bull Terrier
in order to maintain their courage. However, the
type of the Dandie has long been so fixed both in
color and conformation that occasional crosses have
not, according to the records, in any way altered it,
and to-day it is more sharply defined than at any
other period in its history.

The great novelist Scott singularly omitted to
give us a definite description of his dogs when he
created the "Dandie Dinmont," but subsequently
he wrote: "The race of Pepper and Mustard are
in the highest estimation at the present day not
only for vermin killing, but for intelligence and
fidelity. Those who, like the author, possess a
brace of them consider them as very desirable
companions." This proves that Walter Scott kept
Dandie Dinmonts, and that he gave a true defini-
tion of the dogs' splendid character and disposition.
AU those who have ever kept the breed since that
time will bear willing testimony to the fact.

The Dandie is one of the gamest of Terriers, the
most sensible of dogs, and most devoted of canine

185

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

companions. He is besides a hardy, handy-sized
dog, makes a capital house dog, and is just as much
at home in the kennel. He is a rough-and-tumble
sort, to which nothing comes wrong, the tackling
of fox or badger underground or one of his own
species above ground, and besides his exceptional
power and pluck he stands unexceDed and rarely
equaled for common sense and docility.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Dandie puppies at from two to four months old
and after, are: A moderately short head, strong
muzzle, large, dark eye; rather strong, well-beveled
skull; close-set, drop ears; strong neck, rather long
body, distinct arch of loin, great bone, and short
legs.

The standard of points of the Dandie Dinmont
Terrier are as follows:

Head. — Strongly made and large, not out of pro-
portion to the dog's size, the muscles showing ex-
traordinary development, more especially the max-
illary.

Skull broad between the ears, getting gradually
less toward the eyes, and measuring about the same
from the inner corner of the eye to back of skull as
it does from ear to ear. The forehead well domed.
The head is covered with very soft, silky hair, which
should not be confined to a mere topknot, and the
lighter in color and silkier it is the better.

The Cheeks, starting from the ears, propor-
tionately with the skull, have a gradual taper to-
ward the muzzle, which is deep and strongly made,

i86

WORKING TERRIERS

and measures about three inches in length, or in
proportion to skull as three is to five.

The Muzzle is covered with hair of a little darker
shade than the topknot and of the same texture as
the feather of the forelegs. The top of the muzzle
is generally bare for about an inch from the back
part of the nose, the bareness coming to a point
toward the eye, and being about one inch broad at
the nose. The nose and inside of mouth black or
dark color.

The Teeth. — ^Very strong, especially the canine,
which are of extraordinary size for such a small dog.
The canines fit well into each other, so as to give the
greatest available holding and punishing power, and
the teeth are level in front, the upper ones very
slightly overlapping the under ones. (Many of the
finest specimens have a "swine mouth," which is
very objectionable, but it is not so great an objec-
tion as the protrusion of the under jaw.)

Eyes. — Set wide apart, large, full, round, bright,
expressive of great determination, intelligence, and
dignity; set low and prominent in front of the head;
color, a rich, dark hazel.

Ears. — Pendulous, set well back, wide apart, and
low on the skull, hanging close to the cheek, with a
very slight projection at the base; broad at the
junction of the head and tapering almost to a point,
the fore part of the ear tapering very little, the taper-
ing being mostly on the back part, the fore part of
the ear coming almost straight down from its junc-
tion with the head to the tip. They should har-

187

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

monize in color with the body color. In the case of
a Pepper dog they are covered with a soft, straight,
brownish hair (in some cases almost black). In the
case of a Mustard dog the hair should be mustard
in color, a shade darker than the body, but not
black. All should have a thin feather of light hair
starting about two inches from the tip and of nearly
the same color and texture as the topknot, which
gives the ear the appearance of a distinct point.
The animal is often one or two years old before the
feather is shown. The cartilage and skin of the ear
should not be thick, but rather thin. Length of ear
from three to four inches.

Neck. — ^Very muscular, well developed, and
strong, showing great power of resistance, being
well set into the shoulders.

Body. — ^Long, strong, and flexible; ribs weU
sprung and round; chest well developed and let
well down between the forelegs; the back rather low
at the shoulders, having a slight downward curve
and a corresponding arch over the loins, with a very
slight, gradual drop from top of loins to root of tail;
both sides of backbone well supplied with muscle.

Tail. — Rather short, say from eight to ten inches,
and covered on the upper side with wiry hair of
darker color than that of the body, the hair on the
under side being lighter in color and not so wiry,
with nice feather about two inches long, getting
shorter as it nears the tip; rather thick at the root,
getting thicker for about four inches, then tapering
off to a point. It should not be twisted or curled in

i88

WORKING TERRIERS

any way, but should come up with a curve like a
scimitar, the tip, when excited, being in a perpen-
dicular line with the root of the tail. It should
neither be set on too high nor too low. When not
excited it is carried gaily and a little above the level
of the body.

Legs. — ^The forelegs short, with immense mus-
cular development and bone, set wide apart, the
chest coming well down between them. The feet
well formed and not flat, with very strong brown or
dark-colored claws. Bandy legs and flat feet are
objectionable. The hair on the fore legs and feet
of a Pepper dog should be tan, varying according
to the body color from a rich tan to a pale fawn; of
a Mustard dog they are of a darker shade than its
head, which is a creamy white. In both colors
there is a nice feather about two inches long, rather
lighter in color than the hair on the fore part of the
leg. The hind legs are a little longer than the fore
ones, and are set rather wide apart, but not spread
out in an unnatural manner, while the feet are much
smaller; the thighs are well developed, and the hair
of the same color or texture as the fore ones, but
having no feather or dewclaws; the whole claws
should be dark, but the claws of all vary in shade
according to the color of the dog's body.

Coat. — ^This is a very important point. The hair
should be about two inches long; that from skull to
root of tail a mixture of hardish and soft hair which
gives a sort of crisp feel to the hand. The hair should
not be wiry; the coat is what is termed pily or

li 189

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

penciled. The hair on the under part of the body is
lighter in color and softer than on the top. The skin
on the belly accords with the color of dog.

Color. — The color is Pepper or Mustard. The
Pepper ranges from a dark bluish-black to a light
silvery-grey, the intermediate shades being pre-
ferred, the body color coming well down the shoulder
and hips, gradually merging into the leg color. The
Mustards vary from a reddish-brown to a pale
fawn, the head being a creamy white, the legs and
feet of a shade darker than the head. The claws
are dark as in other colors. (Nearly all Dandie
Dinmont Terriers have some white on the chest,
and some have also white claws.)

Size. — ^The height should be from eight to eleven
inches at the top of shoulder. Length from top of
shoulder to root of tail should not be more than
twice the dog's height, but preferably one or two
inches less.

Weight. — From fourteen pounds to twenty-four
pounds, the best weight as near eighteen pounds as
possible. These weights are for dogs in good work-
ing condition.

The relative value of several points in the standard
are apportioned as follows:

Head, lo; eyes, lO; ears, lO; neck, 5; body, 20;
tail, 5; legs and feet, lO; coat, 15; color, 5; size and
weight, 5; general appearance, 5. Total, 100.

190

WORKING TERRIERS

THE WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIER

These hardy little dogs are native to Argyleshire
and the west coast of Scotland, sections of the coun-
try that are the natural home of the fox, the wild-
cat, the badger, and the otter.

It is a great mistake to believe that these dogs,
on account of their general similarity in conforma-
tion, are an offshoot of the Scottish Terrier, pro-
duced by breeding together the albino sports, which
are common in northern latitudes. On the contrary,
the White Highland Terrier was of established type
and ancestry years before the present Scottish
Terrier had emerged from his heterogeneous an-
cestry.

Three hundred years ago King James the First of
England wrote to Edinburgh to have half a dozen
Terriers procured from Argyle and sent to France
as a present, and there are other records to show that
as early as sixteen hundred these white terriers of
Argyle and the wind-swept western coast were the
best in Scotland.

The West Highland Terrier has always been a
workman. His conformation permits him to work
through the crevices, under the rocks, and to go to
earth after his prey, and he has the pluck to do so.
The small, compact bodies of these dogs encompass
an unusual amount of Terrier character. It is im-
portant that the jaws and teeth be strong, the feet
slightly turned out, as better adapted for scrambling
up rocks than a straight fox terrier foot.

191

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Their color is most natural, for white has always
been a favorite for working dogs as most easily dis-
tinguished. For a time these dogs were shown as
Poltalloch Terriers, as a strain of unusual excellence
was owned in that section for many years. Good
specimens are to be found, however, at various
places on the west coast.

In summing up this breed it can be said that they
are intelligent, faithful, and as persistent in pursuit
of prey and as desperate fighters as any dog that
lives.

In the selection of White Highland Terrier puppies
at the age of four months the same points should be
looked for as in Scottish Terriers, with the variation
in color.

The following is the standard and scale of points:

General Appearance of the West Highland
White Terrier is that of a small, game, hardy-
looking Terrier, possessed with no small amount of
self-esteem, with a varminty appearance, strongly
built, deep in chest and back ribs, straight back,
and powerful quarters on muscular legs, and ex-
hibiting in a marked degree a great combination of
strength and activity. The coat should be about
lyi inches long, white in color, hard, with plenty of
soft undercoat, and no tendency to wave or curl.
The tail should be as straight as possible, and car-
ried not too gaily, and covered with hard hair, but
not bushy. The skull should not be too broad, being
in proportion to the terribly powerful jaws, but
must be narrow between the ears. The ears shall

192

WORKING TERRIERS

be as small and sharp-pointed as possible and car-
ried tightly up and must be absolutely erect. The
eyes of moderate size, dark hazel in color, widely
placed, rather sunk or deep-set, with a sharp, bright,
intelligent expression. The muzzle should be pro-
portionately long and powerful, gradually tapering
toward the nose. The nose, roof of mouth, and pads
of feet distinctly black in color.

Color. — ^Pure white; any other color objec-
tionable.

Coat. — ^Very important, and seldom seen to per-
fection; must be double-coated. The outer coat
consists of hard hair about two inches long and free
from any curl. The undercoat, which resembles
fur, is short, soft, and close. Open coats are ob-
jectionable.

Size. — Dogs to weigh from 14 to 1 8 pounds, and
bitches from 12 to 16 pounds, and measure from 8
to 12 inches at the shoulder.

Skull. — Should not be too narrow, being in pro-
portion to his powerful jaw, proportionately long,
slightly domed, and gradually tapering to the eyes,
between which there should be a slight indentation
or stop; eyebrows heavy.

Eyes. — ^Widely set apart, medium in size, dark
hazel in color, slightly sunk in the head, sharp and
intelligent, which, looking from under the heavy
eyebrows, give a piercing look. Full eyes and also
light-colored eyes are very objectionable.

Muzzle. — Should be powerful, proportionate in
length, and should gradually taper toward the nose^

193

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

which should be fairly wide. The jaws level and
powerful, the teeth square or evenly met, well set,
and large for the size of the dog. The nose and roof
of mouth should be distinctly black in color.

Ears. — ^Small, carried erect, but never drop, and
should be carried tightly up, terminating in a sharp
point. The hair on them should be short, smooth
(velvety), and they should not be cut. The ears
should be free from any fringe at the top. Round-
pointed, broad, and large ears are very objection-
able, also ears too heavily covered with hair.

Neck. — ^Muscular and nicely set on sloping shoul-
ders.

Chest. — ^Very deep, with breadth in proportion
to the size of the dog.

Body. — Compact, straight back, ribs deep and
well arched in the upper half of rib, presenting a
flattish side appearance; loins broad and strong;
hindquarters strong, muscular, and wide across the
top.

Legs and Feet. — Both forelegs and hindlegs
should be short and muscular. The shoulder blades
should be comparatively broad and well sloped
backward. The points of the shoulder blades
should be closely knit into the backbone, so that
every little movement of them should be noticeable
when the dog is walking. The elbow should be
close in to the body, both when moving or standing,
thus causing the foreleg to be well placed in under
the shoulder. The forelegs should be straight and

194

WORKING TERRIERS

thickly covered with short, hard hair. The hind-
legs should be short and sinewy. The thighs very
muscular and not too wide apart. The hocks bent
and well set in under the body, so as to be fairly
close to each other either when standing, walking,
or trotting. The fore feet are larger than the hind
ones, are round, proportionate in size, strong,
thickly padded, and covered with short, hard hair.
The hind feet are smaller and thickly padded. The
under surface of the pads of feet and all the nails
should be distinctly black in color. Hocks too much
bent (cow hocks) detract from the general appear-
ance. Straight or weak hocks, both kinds are un-
desirable and should be guarded against.

Tail. — Five or six inches long, covered with
hard hairs, no feather, as straight as possible, car-
ried gaily, but not curled over back. A long tail is
objectionable.

Movement. — Should be free, straight, and easy
all around. In front the leg should be freely ex-
tended forward by the shoulder. The hind move-
ment should be free, strong, and close. The hocks
should be freely flexed and drawn close in under the
body, so that when moving oflF the foot the body is
thrown or pushed forward with some force. StiflF,
stilty movement behind is very objectionable.

Value of Points. — General appearance, 5; color,
10; coat, 10; size, 7>^; skull, 73^; eyes, 5; muzzle,
5; ears, 7; neck, 7>^; chest, y}4; body, lO; legs and
feet, 7}^; tail, 5; movement, j}4.

195

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Faults

Coat. — ^Any silkiness, wave, or tendency to curl
is a serious blemish, as is also an open coat, and
any black, grey, or wheaten hairs.

Size. — ^Any specimens under the minimum weight
or above the maximum weight are objectionable.

Eyes. — Full or light colored.

Ears. — Round-pointed, drop, semi-erect, also ears
too heavily covered with hair.

Muzzle. — Either under- or overshot, and de-
fective teeth.

THE IRISH TERRIER

Although there is the usual mystery about the
exact origin of the Irish Terrier, his excitable tem-
perament, keen intelligence, pluck, and determina-
tion as well as his sociable and vivacious instinct
clearly indicate that he is a worthy product of the
country whose name he bears. In Ireland this breed
is used for bolting foxes and for vermin and rabbit
hunting. They have no superior as companions,
and are game, all-around sporting propositions,
ready to take an active part in anything resembling
sport or pleasure. They ^re undoubtedly a very old
breed of dogs, and present-day bench show winners
are not unlike those depicted in the sporting scenes
of half a century ago.

At the present time red is the most fashionable
color. The wheaten color specimens that come out
from time to time as a rule have softer coats than
the reds. The Irish Terrier as a breed have an

196

WORKING TERRIERS

expression peculiar to themselves, and a good one is
sometimes referred to as having the map of Ireland
on his face, the chiseling of the head being a little
stronger than either the Airedale or the Fox Terrier,
without being at all coarse; their eyes should be
hazel rather than very tiark.

In selecting Irish Terrier puppies look for a long,
level head, a strong muzzle, a rather narrow skuD,
dark eyes; small, neat V-shaped ears; short back,
narrow shoulders, straight forelegs with plenty of
bone, and strong, well-knit feet. The coat should
be hard to the touch and not too long. The puppies
that are dark in color and have the shortest coats
usually develop the best, and a little white on the
chest is no real detriment.

The following is the standard and scale of points:

Head. — Long; skull flat, and rather narrow be-
tween the ears, getting slightly narrower toward the
eye; free from wrinkles; stop hardly visible except
in profile. The jaw must be strong and muscular,
but not too full in the cheek, and of a good punishing
length. There should be a slight falling away below
the eye, so as not to have a Greyhound appearance.
Hair on face of same description as on body, but
short (about a quarter of an inch long), in appear-
ance almost smooth and straight; a slight beard is
the only longish hair (and it is only long in compar-
ison with the rest) that is permissible, and that is
characteristic.

Teeth. — Should be strong and level.

Lips, — Not so tight as a Bull Terrier's, but well

197

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

fitting, showing through the hair their black lin-
ing.

Nose. — Must be black.

Eyes. — A dark hazel color, small, not prominent,
and full of life, fire, and intelligence.

Ears. — Small and V-shaped, of moderate thick-
ness, set well on the head, and dropping forward
closely to the cheek. The ear must be free of fringe,
and the hair thereon shorter and darker in color
than the body.

Neck. — Should be of a fair length, and gradually
widening toward the shoulders, well carried, and
free of throatiness. There is generally a slight sort
of frill visible at each side of the neck, running nearly
to the corner of the ear.

Shoulders and Chest. — Shoulders must be fine,
long, and sloping well into the back; the chest deep
and muscular, but neither full nor wide.

Back and Loin. — Body moderately long; back
should be strong and straight, with no appearance
of slackness behind the shoulders; the loin broad
and powerful and slightly arched; ribs fairly sprung,
rather deep than round, and well-ribbed back.

Hindquarters. — Should be strong and muscular,
thighs powerful, hocks near ground, stifles mod-
erately bent.

Stern. — Generally docked; should be free of
fringe or feather, but well covered with rough hair;
set on pretty high, carried gaily, but not over the
back or curled.

Feet and Legs. — Feet should be strong, toler-

198

WORKING TERRIERS

ably round, and moderately small; toes arched, and
neither turned out nor in; black toenails most de-
sirable. Legs moderately long, well set from the
shoulders, perfectly straight, with plenty of bone
and muscle; the elbows working freely clear of the
sides; pasterns short and straight, hardly notice-
able. Both fore and hind legs should be moved
straight forward when traveling, the stifles not turned
outwards, the legs free of feather, and covered, like
the head, with as hard a texture of coat as body,
but not so long.

Coat. — Hard and wiry, free of softness or silki-
ness, not so long as to hide the outlines of the body,
particularly in the hindquarters; straight and flat,
no shagginess, and free of lock or curl.

Color. — Should be "whole-colored," the most
preferable being bright red, red, wheaten, or yellow-
red. White sometimes appears on chest and feet;
it is more objectionable on the latter than on the
chest, as a speck of white on chest is frequently to
be seen in all self-colored breeds.

Size and Symmetry. — ^The most desirable weight
in show condition is: for a dog, 24 pounds, and for
a bitch, 22 pounds. The dog must present an active,
lively, lithe, and wiry appearance; lots of substance,
at the same time free of clumsiness, as speed and
endurance as well as power are very essential.
They must be neither "cloddy nor cobby," but
should be framed on the "lines of speed," showing a
graceful "racing outline."

Temperament. — Dogs that are very game are

199

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

usually surly or snappish. The Irish Terrier as a
breed is an exception, being remarkably good-
tempered, notably so with mankind, it being ad-
mitted, however, that he is perhaps a little too ready
to resent interference on the part of other dogs.
There is a heedless, reckless pluck about the Irish
Terrier which is characteristic, and, coupled with
the headlong dash, blind to consequences, with
which he rushes at his adversary, has earned for
the breed the proud epithet of "the dare devils."
When "off duty" they are characterized by a quiet,
caress-inviting appearance, and when one sees them
endearingly, timidly pushing their heads into their
masters' hands it is difficult to realize that on occa-
sions, at the "set on," they can prove they have the
courage of a lion and will fight unto the last breath
in their bodies. They develop an extraordinary de-
votion to, and have been known to track their
masters almost incredible distances.

Scale of Points. — ^Head, ears, and expression,
20; legs and feet, 15; neck, 5; shoulders and chest,
10; back and loin, 5; hindquarters and stern, lo;
coat, 15; color, lO; size and symmetry, 10. Total,
100.

White nails, toes, and feet, minus 10; much white
on chest, minus lO; dark shadings on face, minus
5; mouth undershot or cankered, minus lO; coat
shaggy, curly, or soft, minus lO; uneven in color,
minus 5. Total, 50.

200

WORKING TERRIERS

THE WELSH TERRIER

This handy breed is one of the smartest of guards
and companions, and particularly keen on any-
thing in the vermin line. They are indigenous to
the country whose name they bear, and are undoubt-
edly of considerable antiquity and have been bred
true to type for the last thirty years. At one time
they were exhibited as old English broken-haired
Terriers, and at another time certain fanciers at-
tempted crossing with the wire-haired fox terrier,
with the object of securing longer heads. The Welsh
Terrier Club, however, took a very strong position
against cross-bred dogs and refused to recognize
any dogs whose pedigrees were not pure Welsh.
Thereby they have succeeded admirably in preserv-
ing all of the older characteristics of the breed.

There is no better working terrier than the Welsh-
man. They are not quarrelsome, show very little
jealousy, can be kenneled and exercised together
better than any other breed, and as a breed are dead
game. They are not so easily aroused or excited as
fox terriers or an Irishman, but once get them
started and they are afraid of nothing on earth and
will go through to the finish. They are splendid
water dogs, very affectionate companions, and no
better guards nor more capable assistants to the
gun will be found in the terrier family.

The Welsh Terrier in appearance is a small,
beautifully proportioned, and useful dog of about
twenty pounds weight, with a sporty look and a

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

keen, intelligent, lively disposition. They should
have straight forelegs and cat-like feet. Their
beads are shorter than either the Fox Terrier, the
Irish Terrier, or Airedale, but as a rule they run
truer in coat and color.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Welsh Terrier puppies at from two to four months
old are almost identical with those detailed for
Wire-haired Fox Terriers, with the variation of color.

The following is the standard description adopted
by the Welsh Terrier Club since the year 1886:

Head. — ^The skull should be flat and rather wider
between the ears than the Wire-haired Fox Terrier.
The jaw should be powerful, clean-cut, rather
deeper, and more punishing, giving the head a
more masculine appearance than that usually seen
on a Fox Terrier. Stop not too defined; fair length
from stop to end of nose, the latter being of a black
color.

Ears. — ^The ear should be V-shaped, small, not
too thin, set on fairly high, carried forward and
close to the cheek.

Eyes. — ^The eye should be small, not being too
deeply set in or protruding out of skull; of a dark
color, expressive and indicating abundant pluck.

Neck. — ^The neck should be of moderate length
and thickness, slightly arched, and sloping grace-
fully into the shoulders.

Body. — ^The back should be short and well
ribbed up, the loin strong, good depth, and moderate
width of chest. The shoulders should be long,

202

WORKING TERRIERS

sloping, and well set back. The hindquarters
should be strong, thighs muscular, and of good
length, with the hocks moderately straight, well let
down, and fair amount of bone. The stern should
be set on moderately high, but not too gaily carried.

Legs and Feet. — The legs should be straight and
muscular, possessing fair amount of bone, with up-
right and powerful pasterns. The feet should be
small, round, and cat-like.

Coat. — ^The coat should be wiry, hard, very
close, and abundant.

Color. — ^The color should be black-and-tan, or
black grizzle-and-tan, free from black penciling on
toes.

Size. — The height at shoulder should be 15
inches for dogs; bitches proportionately less. Twenty
pounds shall be considered a fair average weight in
working condition, but this may vary a pound or
so either way.

THE SEALYHAM TERRIER

For many years this attractive breed of Terriers
has been carefully bred by a small group of British
sportsmen who have cherished them for their ad-
mirable working qualities, and have never been in-
terested in the fads or the mandates of the bench-
show world. It may be stated without fear of con-
tradiction that no breed is better adapted to go to
earth, and that, pound for pound, they represent
as much determination and dead game courage as
any dog that lives.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

A few years ago a number of prominent bench-
show fanciers became interested in the breed and
brought them to the notice of the public. Since
then they have enjoyed considerable vogue on both
sides of the water, for they are sporty little prop-
ositions and the most entertaining and useAil of
companions.

The standard is as follows:

The Sealyham should be the embodiment of
power and determination in a Terrier. Of extraor-
dinary substance for its size, yet free from clumsi-
ness. The ideal being the combination of the
Dandie Dinmont with a Bull Terrier of twenty
pounds; otherwise any resemblance to a Fox Terrier
in either make, shape, character, or expression
should be heavily penalized.

Head. — ^The skull unusually wide between the
ears (this being a characteristic of both the Dandie
and the Bull Terrier), slightly rounded and domed,
with practically no stop, and a slight indentation
running down between the brows. Long, powerful
level jaws, wider and heavier than in a Fox Terrier,
the upper finishing in a large, black nose with wide
nostrils.

Body. — Comparatively short between back of
neck and set-on of tail, but of good length from the
junction of the humerous and shoulder blades to
the back of the hindquarters, thus giving great
flexibility. Very deep, well ribbed up, witn com-
paratively wide front; the chest well let down be-

204

WORKING TERRIERS

tween the forelegs, giving large heart and lung
room, the latter being very important for a dog
that has to stay long underground.

Coat. — Dense overcoat, the top being hard and
wiry, considerably longer than that which a Wire-
haired Fox Terrier is shown with, especially on
head, throat, and neck.

Ears. — Of medium size, set on low, and carried
closely against the cheek. This is a very important
jx)int, as high-setting and forward carriage gives a
Fox Terrier character and expression, and is usually
indicative of that blood.

Hindquarters. — ^Wide and massive, with strong
second thighs and backs extremely well bent.

Legs. — Short, heavily boned, the forelegs as
straight as is consistent with the body, being well let
down between them.

Feet. — Of medium size, round, with thick pads,
and very strong nails. The fore feet being larger,
though not quite so long as the hind.

Eyes. — Set somewhat wide apart, of medium size,
and very dark.

Teeth. — Strong, large, and square, the canines
fitting closely between each other. Undershot or
much overshot jaws should be a disqualification.

Neck. — Of medium length, but extremely strong
and muscular.

Tail. — Docked and carried gaily.

Color. — ^AU white, or white with lemon, tan,
brindle, or badger-pied markings on head and ears.

205

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

(Black IS objecdonable, even on head and ears; a
Jarge black spot on the body should almost be a
disqualification as showing Fox Terrier blood.)

Size. — Dogs between nine inches and twelve
inches at the shoulder; bitches somewhat smaller.
Weight being no criterion, as a thirteen-inch dog
might weigh only fourteen pounds and a ten4nch
twenty-four pounds.

THE WHITE ENGLISH TERRIER

This is a comparatively new breed, and is the
only Terrier that bears the national name. There
is no evidence to show where it originally sprang
from, who produced it, or for what reason.

Before the institution of dog shows the generic
term "Terrier" was applied to all earth dogs, and it
would be difficult to prove that a white Terrier re-
sembling those now under consideration existed at
that time. There is little difference between the
white English Terrier and the Manchester black-
white-and-tan, except in color, for they are of
similar shape and general character.

The standard as laid down by the White English
Terrier Club is as follows:

Head. — Narrow, long, and level; almost flat skull,
without cheek muscles, wedge-shaped, well filled up
under the eyes, tapering to the nose, and not lippy.

Eyes. — Small and black, set fairly close together,
and oblong in shape.

Nose. — Perfectly black.

Ears. — Cropped and standing perfecdy erect.

206

WORKING TERRIERS

Neck and Shoulders. — ^The neck should be
fairly lone and tapering from the shoulders to the
head, with sloping shoulders, the neck being free
from throatiness, and slightly arched at the occiput.

Chest. — Narrow and deep.

Body. — Short and curving upward at the loins;
sprung out behind the shoulders, back slightly
arched at loins, and falling again at the joining of
the tail to the same height as the shoulders.

Legs. — Perfectly straight and well under the
body, moderate in bone, and of proportionate
length.

Feet. — Feet nicely arched, with toes set well to-
gether, and more inclined to be round than hare-
footed.

Tail. — Moderate length, and set on where the
arch of the back ends, thick where it joins the body,
tapering to a point, and not carried higher than the
back.

Coat. — Close, hard, short, and glossy.

Color. — Pure white; colored marking to dis-
qualify.

Condition. — Flesh and muscles to be hard and
firm.

Weight. — From 12 to 20 pounds*

207

SPECIALTY DOGS

THE BULLDOG

The origin of the Bulldog is closely associated
with the Mastiff; in fact, he was originally a smaller
variety that was used for bull baiting, the larger
variety being used in battles with the bear.

Jesse says the first mention of a Bulldog occurs in
1631 or 1632 in a letter written by Prestwich Eaton^
of St. Sebastian to George Wellingham, London,
asking for a good Mastiff and two good Bulldogs.
The sport of bull baiting was initiated with the dis-
appearance of the wild oxen from the woods in the
reign of King John, toward the close of the twelfth
or beginning of the thirteenth century. We read
that: "William, Earl Warren, Lord of Stamford,
standing upon the castle walls of this town, saw
two bulls fighting for a cow in the meadow. The
butcher's dog pursued one of the bulls, which,
maddened with the noise and the multitude, galloped
through the town. This sight so pleased the Earl
that he gave the meadows, called the Castle Mead-
ows, where first the duel began, for a common to
the butchers of the town, on condition that they
find a mad bull six weeks before Christmas for the
continuance of the sport every year."

"Bull baiting," writes Marples, "became a very
fashionable British sport, and was at one time pat-
ronized by persons of the very highest rank,' from

208

si ^

i- • 8

3 112

SPECIALTY DOGS

the King and Queen of England down, just as bull
fighting in Spain is to-day the leading and most
fashionable sport, in which matadors take the place
of Bulldogs. As the sport developed and became
popular, naturally the breeding of dogs best adapted
for bringing down the bull followed, and in this way
originals of our present-day Bulldogs were evolved,
but of course not so pronounced in type nor so per-
fectly fitted structurally and anatomically for their
specific avocation. It was no doubt found that a
less heavy and more agile dog than a Mastiff would
be better for the purpose, and either smaller speci-
mens would be used or the MastiflF became dwarfed
by crossing, probably with a terrier. As the bull
always attacks his canine foes head down so as to
catch them up with his horns, the dogs would be
taught to seize him by the nose, which indeed would
be the natural mode of attack of the dog in such
circumstances. The type of dog that would be sug-
gested to careful students of the sport, even in the
old days, would be a low-set, powerful-fronted and
jawed dog, with light quarters, and whose nose
receded from his lower jaw to enable him to breathe
while hanging on his quarry, his light hindquarters
further assisting him in hanging on the bull, whose
habit in such circumstances invariably is to whirl
the dog in the air in his frantic endeavor to shake

him off."

Theoretically, the Bulldog may be anatomically
adapted to holding bulls, but the present show dogs
are simply exaggerated monstrosities that by no

209

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

possible stretch of the imagination could either
catch or hold a bull or escape his feet and horns.

The modem Bulldog cannot be accepted as any-
thing more than a conspicuous example of the
breeder's art. They have lost, however, none of
their old-time courage and tenacity, and will go to
their death as cheerfully as their ancestors did three
hundred years ago. Bulldogs are not fierce in dis-
position; in fact, they are among the kindest of the
canine race, free from treachery, and the most
faithful of companions, all of which in a great measure
accounts for their popularity.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Bulldog puppies at from two to four months old
and after, are: A massive head, with long, sweep-
ing underjaw, well turned up, not necessarily short
nose, but must be retrouss6 — ^laid well back, massive,
broad foreface, big skull, little ears, short back and
tail, short legs, with enormous bone.

The following are the description and standard as
approved by the English Bulldog Club of Amer-
ica:

General Appearance, Aptitude, Expression,
Etc. — ^The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size
and smooth coat, with heavy, thick-set, low-swung
body; massive, short-faced head; wide shoulders and
sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude
should suggest great stability, vigor, and strength.
The disposition should be equable and kind, reso-
lute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and
the demeanor should be pacific and dignified.

210

SPECIALTY DOGS

These attributes should be countenanced by the
expression and behavior.

Gait. — ^The style and carriage are peculiar, his
gait being a loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion,
giving the characteristic "roll." The action must,
however, be unrestrained, free, and vigorous.

Proportion and Symmetry. — ^The "points"
should be well distributed and bear good relation
one to the other, no feature being in such promi-
nence from either excess or lack of quality that the
animal appears deformed or illy proportioned.

Influence of Sex. — In comparison of specimens
of different sex due allowance should be made in
favor of the bitches, which do not bear the char-
acteristics of the breed to the same degree of per-
fection and grandeur as do the dogs.

Size. — ^The size for mature dogs is about 50
pounds; for mature bitches, about 40 pounds.

Coat. — ^The coat should be straight, short, flat,
close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No
fringe, feather, or curl.)

Color of Coat. — ^The color of coat should be
uniform, pure of its kind, and brilliant. The various
colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the
following order: (i) Red brindle; (2) all other
brindles; (3) solid white; (4) solid red, fawn, or
fallow; (5) piebald; (6) inferior qualities of all the
foregoing.

{Note. — ^A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy
brindle or defective solid color.)

Solid black is very undesirable, but not so objec-

211

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

tionable if occurring to a moderate d^ree in piebald
patches. The brindles^ to be perfect, should have a
fine, even, and equal distribution of the composite
colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white
patch on the chest is not considered detrimental.
In piebalds the color patches should be well defined,
of pure color, and symmetrically distributed.

Skin.— The skin should be soft and loose, es-
pecially at the head, neck, and shoulders.

Wrinkle and Dewlap. — ^The head and face
should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the
throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two
loose, pendulous folds forming the dewlap.

Skull. — ^The skull should be very large, and in
circumference in front of the ears should measure
at least the height of the dc^ at the shoulders.
Viewed from the front, it should appear very high
from the comer of the lower j aw to the apex of the
skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed
from the side, the head should appear very high
and very short from the point of the nose to occiput.
The forehead should be flat (not rounded nor
"domed"), neither too prominent nor overhanging
the face.

Cheeks. — ^The cheeks should be well rounded,
protruding sidewise and outward beyond the eyes.

Stop. — ^The temples of frontal bones should be
very well defined, broad, square, and high, causing
a hollow or groove between the eyes. This indenta-
tion or stop should be both broad and deep, and ex-
tend up to the middle of the forehead, dividing the

212

SPECIALTY DOGS

head vertically, being traceable to the top of the
skull.

Eyes and Eyelids. — ^The eyes, seen from the
front, should be situated low down in the skull as
far from the ears as possible, and their corners should
be in a straight line at right angles with the stop.
They should be quite in front of the head, as wide
apart as possible, provided their outer corners are
within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from
the front. They should be quite round in form, of
moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging, and in
color should be very dark. The lids should cover
the white of the eyeball when the dog is looking
directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw."

Ears. — ^The ears should be set high in the head,
the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline
of the skull at the top back corner of skull, so as to
place them as wide apart and as high and as far
from the eyes as possible. In size they should be
small and thin. The shape termed "rose ear" is
the most desirable. The "rose ear" folds inward
at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving
over, outward, and backward, showing part of the
inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried
erect or "prick-eared" or "buttoned," and should
never be cropped.)

Face. — ^The face, measured from the edge of the
cheek bone to the tip of nose, should be extremely
short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned
upward, and very deep from the corner of the eye
to the corner of the mouth.

213

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Nose. — ^The nose should be large, broad, and
black, its tip being set back deeply between the
eyes. The distance from the bottom of stop between
the eyes to the tip of the nose should be as short as
possible, and not exceed the length from the tip
of the nose to the edge of under lip. The nostrils
should be wide, large, and black, with a well-<lefined
line between them. (The parti-color or "butterfly
nose" and the flesh-color or "Dudley nose" are de-
cidedly objectionable, but do not disqualify for
competition.)

Chops. — ^The chops or "flews" should be thick,
broad, pendant, and very deep, completely over-
hanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the
under lip in front and almost or quite cover the
teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the
mouth is closed.

Jaws. — ^The jaws should be massive, very broad,
square, and "undershot," the lower jaw projecting
considerably in front of the upper jaw, and running up.

Teeth. — ^The teeth should be large and strong,
with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the
six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an
even, level row.

Neck. — ^The neck should be short, very thick,
deep, and strong, and well arched at the back.

Shoulders. — ^The shoulders should be muscular,
very heavy, wide-spread, and slanting outward,
giving stability and great power.

Chest. — ^The chest should be very broad, deep,
and full.

214

SPECIALTY DOGS

Brisket and Body. — The brisket and body should
be very capacious, with full sides, well-rounded ribs,
and very deep from the shoulders down to its lowest
part, where it joins the chest. It should be well let
down between the shoulders and forelegs, giving
the dog a broad, low, short-legged appearance.
The body should be well ribbed up behind, with
the belly tucked up and not rotund.

Back. — The back should be short and strong,
very broad at the shoulders and comparatively nar-
row at the loins. Behind the shoulders there should
be a slight fall in the back, close the top of which
should be higher than the top of the shoulders,
thence curving again more suddenly to the tail,
forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the
breed), termed "roach-back," or, more correctly,
"wheel-back."

Forelegs. — ^The forelegs should be short, very
stout, straight, and muscular, set wide apart, with
well-developed calves, presenting a bowed outline,
but the bones of the legs should not be curved or
bandy nor the feet brought too close together.

Elbows. — The elbows should be low and stand
well out and loose from the body.

HiNDLEGS. — The hindlegs should be strong and
muscular and longer than the forelegs, so as to ele-
vate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks should
be slightly bent and well let down, so as to give
length and strength from loins to hock. The lower
leg should be short, straight, and strong, with
stifles turned slightly outward and away from the

215

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

body. The hocks are thereby made to approach
each other and the hind feet turned outward.

Feet. — ^The feet should be moderate in size, com-
pact, and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up,
with high knuckles, and with short and stubby nails.
The front feet may be straight or slightly out-
turned, but the hind feet should be pointed well
outward.

Tail. — ^The tail may be either straight or
"screwed" (but never curved or curly), and in any
case must be short, hung low, with decided down-
ward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight,
the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper.
If "screwed,** the bends or kinks should be well
defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty,
but no portion of the member should be elevated
above the base or root.

Value of Points. — Proportion and symmetry, 5;
attitude, 3; expression, 2; gait, 3; size, 3; coat, 2;
color of coat, 4; skull, 5; cheeks, 2; stop, 4; eyes and
eyelids, 3; ears, 5; wrinkle, 5; nose, 6; chops, 2;
jaws, 5; teeth, 2; neck, 3; dewlap, 2; shoulders, 5;
chest, 3; ribs, 3; brisket, 2; belly, 2; back, 5; fore-
legs and elbows, 4; hind legs, 3; feet, 3; tail, 4.
Total, 100.

BULLDOGS (MINIATURE)

The points and characteristics of this subdivision
of the British Bulldog may be summed up in the
simple statement that he should be an exact dupli-
cate in miniature of the larger specimens in every

216

p-.-

•si

SPECIALTY DOGS

point and detail. The origin of the miniature Bull-
dog is not very clear, but is doubtless of a later date
than that of his bigger brothers. In the breeding
of any variety odd miniature specimens will crop
up in litters, and these have no doubt suggested to
some fanciers the idea of propagating a race of
pigmy Bulldogs probably designed for ladies' pets.
It is on record that many toy specimens, as they
were first called, have been reproduced in the Bull-
dog breeding centers of London, Sheffield, Birming-
ham, Nottingham, etc., and it is doubtless from
these that the present-day and more perfected race
of miniatures have sprung.

It is also a matter of record that in the distant
past many of these toy specimens were exported to
France. They were, for the greater part, prick-
eared or tulip-eared in the old days, and in later
years re-imported French Bulldogs have been used
to cross with English-bred toys for the purpose of
fixing the size. This cross, happily not largely re-
sorted to, had the disadvantage of perpetuating the
hideous bat and tulip ears, and of rather spoiling the
correct British type.

The chief points to look for in Miniature puppies
are identical with those in the larger variety, ex-
cept that the smaller the puppy the better, if good
in points.

217

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

THE BULL TERRIER

The Bull Terrier has been aptly described as the
game cock of the canine race. He is, unquestionably,
the embodiment of courage as well as the essence of
docility. A good Bull Terrier is staunch and true as
steel when called upon to defend his master or his
home, and on other occasions is gentle, harmless, and
the most tractable of companions.

The clean cut, statuesque appearance of the Bull
Terrier has given him a prominent position in the
Terrier family. His smooth, white coat is always in
condition, and he is more cleanly about the house, and
can be accepted on closer terms of intimacy than the
long-haired varieties.

There is no uncertainty about the origin of the Bull
Terrier. When bull fighting was abolished, the sports
of the day, the gamesters and the cock fighters, took
up dog fighting and badger baiting. For this purpose
they wanted a dog with a longer and more punishing
jaw and one that was faster on his feet than the
BuUdog but possessed of all the latter's courage and
endurance. They crossed the Bulldog on the agile,
alert, little Terrier that was used in the country and
secured dogs with a punishing head of fair length,
powerful jaw muscles and a strong terrier-like body
and limbs. These dogs, like their ancestors, were of
various colors. This type of Bull Terrier is still
being bred by doc fighters.

There was another class of fanciers to whom we are
indebted for the modern Bull Terrier. They began

218

SPECIALTY DOGS

by refining the fighting-dog type. They bred for
longer heads, straighter limbs, and a more graceful
outline, and in this direction accomplished a great
deal. Their dogs, however, were short-faced com-

Eared with those of to-day and of many colors; fawn,
rindle, black-and-white, etc.
About fifty years ago, James Hinks, a clever
fancier of Birmingham, England, swept the show
benches with a pure white strain of Bull Terriers.
His dogs were highly refined, straight on their legs,
graceful and smart in appearance, with long wedge-
shaped, clean-cut heads. In fact, there was nothing
about them that suggested the Bulldog, and it was
charged that the pugnacity and courage of the old
breed had been lost. To prove that his strain had not
lost their fighting spirit, Hinks backed his bitch.
Puss, against one of the old bull-faced type for a five-
pound note and a case of wine. Puss killed her
opponent in thirty minutes, and her own injuries
were so slight that she was able to appear at a Bench
Show on the following day. It is said that Hinks
used the Pointer and Dalmatian in producing his
strain. However that may be, they became very
popular and soon drove their short-faced rivals of
various colors off the Bench, and for many years the
breed enjoyed great popularity.

The edict of the Kennel Club, abolishing cropping,
gave them ^ temporary set-back from which they
soon recovered as by careful selection, breeders soon
obtained a small ear to replace the thick, heavy ear
so essential to a good crop. At the present time

219

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

there is a strong movement to bring back the brindles
and other colors which indicate strength. This will
also have a good influence in checking the spread of
deafness; for while white Bull Terriers are prone to
deafness, this predisposition is not apparent in other
colors.

In selecting puppies over six months old, look for a
long head and straight foreface, free from stop; level
mouth; closely set, dark eye; small ears, short back
and tail; straight front and big rib.

The following is the Bull Terrier Club's standard
description and scale of points:

Head. — Should be long, but with due regard first
to type. Skull as nearly flat as possible and widest
between the ears. Viewed from above it should taper
gradually and merge into the muzzle without per-
ceptible break in the line. There should be a slight
indentation down the middle, but without "stop"
and with as little brow as possible. Foreface filled
right up to the eyes. Preferably the foreface should
have a decided "downness." Eyes, very small, black,
set high on the head, close together and obliquely.
They should be either almond-shaped or triangular,
preferably the latter. Wall-eye is a disqualification.
Muzzle wide and tapering, but without so much taper
as to make the nose appear pinched. Muzzle should
be neither square nor snipy, but should present a
rounded appearance as viewed from above. Nose
broad, wholly black, and with wide-open nostrils.
Dudley or wholly flesh-colored nose is a disqualifica-
tion. Underjaw strong and well defined. Lips

220

SPECIALTY DOGS

should meet closely and evenly all around, should not
run too far back, and there should be an entire
absence of "lippiness." Teeth sound, strong, clean,
regular, and meeting evenly. Any deviation from
this rule, such as "pig paw,'* "undershot" or "over-
shot" is a bad fault. . Ears when standing erect
should not cause noticeable wrinkling of the skin on
the head. Ears should be cropped, should be
straight and of moderate length. It is important
that there be as little cheek as possible, but where it
is present it should not be bunchy or prominent, but
should merge gradually into the lines of the muzzle
and neck.

Neck. — Slightly arched, tapering from shoulders
to head, and free from looseness of skin.

Shoulders. — Strong and muscular, but without
any appearance of heaviness or "loading." Shoulder
blades wide, flat, and sloping well back.

Back. — Short, strong, and muscular. Should be
higher at withers than hips. There should be no
slackness nor falling away behind the withers, but
back should be slightly arched at loin, with loins
well developed and slightly tucked. Ribs well
sprung, close together and intercostal muscles well
developed; back ribs deep. Chest deep from withers
to brisket and wide from front to back ribs, but
should not be broad as viewed facing the dog.

Tail. — Short in proportion to the size of the dog,
set on low, broad where it joins the body and taper-
ing to a point; should be straight and should not b^
carried above the level of the back.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Legs. — Should have big, round bone and strong,
straight, upright pasterns. The whole foreleg
should be reasonably straight, but without the
stiltiness of the Fox Terrier. Thighs somewhat
long, with muscle well developed, but without
"loading." Hocks short, fairly straight, well let
down, and should turn neither in nor out as viewed
from behind.

Feet. — Of the cat pattern, with toes short, well
arched, and close together. Pads strong and nails
short.

Coat. — Short, close, stiff to the touch, and with
fine gloss.

Color. — White. Markings, although objection-
able, are not a disqualification.

Weight. — Is not a matter of importance, so long
as the specimen is typical.

Faults. — Light bone; round eyes; badly placed
eyes; light eyes; domed skulls; butterfly noses;
noticeable cheekiness; dished faces; lippiness, throat-
iness; teeth not meeting evenly; long or slack backs;
long, thick, or "gay" tails; loose shoulders; crooked
elbows; loaded shoulders or thighs; weak pasterns;
pig feet; toes turning either in or out; markings.

THE TOY BULL TERRIER

Bull Terriers weighing less than 15 pounds are
usually described as Toy Bull Terriers. The points
of these should be exactly the same as for the
larger variety. The most popular weight for Toy
Bull Terriers is not exceeding 10 pounds.

222

SPECIALTY DOGS

THE BOSTON TERRIER

The Boston Terrier is one of the few breeds that
is distinctly of American origin. Their name indi-
cates their nativity, and all that can be learned of
their ancestry points to their having been of a pit
bull terrier origin. Pit bulls are usually the result
of a cross between bulldogs and terriers, and vary
in form. Some have the long, clean head of a
terrier; others, the round, almost puggish head of
the bulldog. The round-headed, short-faced brindle
dogs that were a result of these crosses could not
win against the terrier types in their own classes,
and as they were crowded out their admirers suc-
ceeded in having classes organized for them, and
these classes were eventually recognized by the
American Kennel Club.

In the early history of the breed theire was no
established type, some favoring the bulldogs, while
others were partial to those that were on the terrier
order. As late, as 1894 the American Kennel Club
canceled a Boston Terrier pedigree because the sire
was a bulldog. The registrar of the Boston Terrier
Club, when called upon for an explanation, stated
that it was necessary to resort to the bulldog cross
to retain certain characteristics of the bulldog,
namely, the rose ears, flat skull, and short, tapering
tail, and further asserted that the Boston Terrier
at that time was becoming too strongly terrier.

At the present time the best opinion on this sub-
ject is that the Boston should be neither bulldog

223

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

nor terrier in type, but a happy medium. The Bos-
ton Terrier has proven to be the great conunerdal
success of this country, and no other breed has ever
attained such preat popularity in so short a time.
The tendency from year to year has been to reduce
them in size, and as a result of careful selection they
have become well fixed in type and much of their
early irr^^arity has disappeared.

The description, standard and value of points as
adopted by the Boston Terrier Club is as follows:

General Appearance. — ^The general appearance
of the Boston Terrier should be that of a lively,
highly intelligent, smooth-coated, short-headed, com-
pactly built, short-tailed, well-balanced dog of me-
dium station, of brindle color and evenly marked
with white.

The head should indicate a high degree of intelli-
gence and should be in proportion to the size of the
dog; the body rather short and well knit; the limbs
strong and neatly turned; tail short; and no feature
being so prominent that the dog appears badly
proportioned.

The dog should convey an impression of deter-
mination, strength, and activity, with style of a
high order; carriage easy and graceful.

A proportionate combination of "color" and
"ideal markings" is a particularly distinctive feature
of a representative specimen, and dogs with a pre-
ponderance of white on body, or without the proper
proportion of brindle and white on head, should

22^

SPECIALTY DOGS

possess sufficient merit otherwise to counteract their
deficiencies in these respects.

The ideal "Boston Terrier expression" as indicat-
ing "a high degree of intelligence" is also an im-
portant characteristic of the breed.

"Color and markings" and "expression" should be
given particular consideration in determining the
relative value of "General Appearance" to other
points.

Skull. — Square^ flat on top, free from wrinkles;
cheeks flat; brow abrupt, stop well defined.

Eyes. — Wide apart, large and round, dark in
color; expression alert, but kind and intelligent;
the eyes shovdd set square across brow, and the out-
side comers should be on a line with the cheeks as
viewed from the front.

Muzzle. — Short, square, wide, and deep; free
from wrinkles; shorter in length than in width and
depth, and in proportion to skull; width and depth
carried out well to end. Nose black and wide, with
well-defined line between nostrils. The jaws broad
and square, with short, regular teeth. The chops of
good depth, but not pendulous, completely cover-
ing the teeth when mouth is closed. The muzzle
should not exceed in approximate length one-third
of length of skuU.

Ears. — Small and thin; situated as near corners
of skull as possible.

Head Faults. — Skull "domed" or inclined; fur-
rowed by a medial line; skull too long for breadth, or

225

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

vice versa; stop too shallow; brow and skull too
slanting.

Eyes small or sunken; too prominent; light color;
showing too much white or haw. Muzzle wedge-
shaped or lacking depth; down-faced; too much cut
out below the eyes; pinched nostrils; protruding
teeth; weak lower jaw, showing "turn up.*' Poorly
carried ears or out of proportion.

Neck. — Of fair length, slightly arched and carry-
ing the head gracefully; setting neatly into the
shoulders.

Neck Faults. — Ewe-necked; throatiness; short
and thick.

Body. — Deep, with good width of chest; shoulders
sloping; back short; nbs deep and well sprung, car-
ried well back to loins; loins short and muscular;
rump curving slightly to set-on of tail. Flank slightly
cut up. The body should appear short, but not
chunky.

Body Faults. — Flat sides; narrow chest; long or
slack loins; roach back; sway back; too much cut
up in flank.

Elbows. — Standing neither in nor out.

Forelegs. — Set moderately wide apart and on a
line with the points of the shoulders; straight in
bone and well muscled; pasterns short and strong.

HiNDLEGS. — Set true; bent at stifles; short from
hocks to feet; hocks turning neither in nor out;
thighs strong and well muscled.

Feet. — Round, small, and compact, and turned
neither in nor out; toes well arched.

226

SPECIALTY DOGS

Leo and Feet Faults. — Loose shoulders or
elbows; hindlegs too straight at stifles; hocks too
prominent; long or weak pasterns; splay feet.

Tail. — Set on low; short, fine, and tapering;
straight or screw; devoid of fringe or coarse hair,
and not carried above horizontal.

Tail Faults. — ^A long or gayly carried tail; ex-
tremely gnarled or curled against body.

{Note. — ^The preferred tail should not exceed in
length approximately half the distance from set-on
to hock.)

Color. — Brindle, with white markings.

Ideal Markings. — ^White muzzle, even white
blaze over head, collar, breast, part or whole of fore-
legs, and hindlegs below hocks.

Color and Markings Faults. — All white; ab-
sence of white markings; preponderance of white on
body; without the proper proportion of brindle and
white on head; or any variations detracting from the
general appearance.

Coat. — Short, smooth, bright, and fine in texture.

Coat Faults. — Long or coarse; lacking luster.

Weights. — Not exceeding 27 pounds, divided as
follows: Lightweight, under 17 pounds; middle-
weight, 17 and not exceeding 22 pounds; heavy-
weight, 22 and not exceeding 27 pounds.

Disqualifications. — Solid black, black-and-tan,
liver and mouse colors. Docked tail and any arti-
ficial means used to deceive the judge.

Value of Points. — Skull, 12; ears, 2; eyes, 5;
muzzle, 12; neck, 3; body, 15; elbows, 4; forelegs,

227

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

5; hindl^y 5; color, 4; ideal markings, lO; feet, 5;
tail, 5; coat, 3; general appearance and style, 10.
Total, 100.

THE FRENCH BULLDOG

Authorities are of the opinion that the French
Bulldog is strictly of French origin, yet they are
willing to admit that in recent years importations
from England have been used as a cross with the
narive dog, and that this cross has led to a nearer
approximation to the Bridsh type.

The chief difference between English and French
specimens is in foreface and front; in most other
points the two breeds are very nearly identical.
The body of the Frenchman should be short and
rotund, with a distinct roach and light but sound
quarters. His shoulders should be strong, and he
should stand on short, fairly stout limbs for his size.
He should not exceed 22 pounds, be extremely agile,
and indeed almost terrier-like in action and move-
ment. The fundamental difference is seen in the
foreface, which in the French should show some
slight protrusion of the underjaw and some turn-up
but no lay-back, which, through English Bulldog
optics, give the dog the appearance of being frog-
faced. The eyes should be set far apart and a good
distance shown between the eye and the ear, and
the skull should be flat. The ears, of course, should
be on the lines of the ears of a bat, but it is satis-
factory to note that large ears are deprecated. The
tail again, like that of the English variety, should

228

SPECIALTY DOGS

be short, low set, and tapering to a point, but noth-
ing is said in the standard about a "screw" tail.

The chief points to look for in the selection of the
French Bulldog puppies at from two to four months
old and after, are: Squareness and shortness of fore-
face, massiveness of skull, large eye, deep stop,
small, neat ears; shortness of body; good spring of
rib; and straight legs, showing great bone.

The following is the description of the breed as
approved by the French Bulldog Club of America:

General Appearance. — ^The French Bulldog
should have the appearance of an active, intelligent,
muscular dog, of heavy bone, smooth coat, com-
pactly built, and of medium or small stature.

Proportion and Symmetry. — ^The points should
be well distributed and bear good relation one to
the other, no feature being in such prominence from
either excess or lack of quality that the animal ap-
pears deformed or ill proportioned.

Influence of Sex. — In comparison of specimens
of different sex, due allowance should be made in
favor of the bitches, which do not bear the char-
acteristics of the breed to the same marked degree
as do the dogs.

Weight. — ^A lightweight class under 22 pounds;
heavyweight class, 22 pounds, and not over 28
pounds.

Head. — ^The head should be large, square, and
broad, cranium almost flat; the underjaw large and
powerful, deep, square, broad, undershot, and well
turned up. The muzzle should be well laid back

229

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and the muscles of the cheeks well developed. The
stop should be strongly defined, causing a hollow or
groove between the eyes and extending up in the
forehead. The nose should be extremely short,
broad, and very deep; nostrils broad and black,
with well-defined line between them. (Dish-face
undesirable.) The nose and flews should be black.
The flews should be thick, broad, pendant, and very
deep, hanging over the lower jaw at sides. Tusks
must not show. Front teeth may show slightly.

Eyes. — ^The eyes should be wide apart, set low
down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible,
round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor
bulging, and in color dark. No haw and no white of
the eye showing when looking forward.

Neck. — ^The neck should be thick and well
arched, with loose skin at throat.

Ears. — ^The ears shall hereafter be known as the
bat ear, broad at the base, elongated, with round top,
set high in the head, but not too close together, and
carried erect, with the orifice to the front. The
leather of the ear fine and soft.

Body. — ^The body should be short and well
rounded. The chest broad, deep, and full, well
ribbed, with the belly tucked up. The back should
be a roach back, with a slight fall close behind the
shoulders. It should be strong and short, broad at
the shoulders and narrowing at the loins.

Legs. — ^The forelegs should be short, stout,
straight, and muscular, set wide apart. The hind-
legs should be strong and muscular, longer than the

230

SPECIALTY DOGS

forelegs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoul-
ders. Hocks well let down.

Feet. — ^The feet should be moderate in size, com-
pact, and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up,
with high knuckles, and short, stubby nails; hind-
feet slightly longer than forefeet.

Tail. — ^The tail should be either straight or
screwed (but not curly), short, hung low, thick root
and fine tip, carried low in repose.

Color, Skin, and Coat. — ^Acceptable colors are:
All brindle (dark preferred) and any color except
the following, which constitute disqualification:
Solid black, black and white, black and tan, liver
and mouse color. (Black as used in the standard
means black without any trace of brindle.) The
skin should be soft and loose, especially at head and
shoulders, forming wrinkles. Coat moderately fine,
brilliant, short and smooth.

Disqualification. — Other than bat ears, any
mutilation, solid black, black and white, black and
tan, liver and mouse color, eyes of diflFerent color,
nose other than black, and hare lip.

Value of Points. — ^Proportion and symmetry, 5;
expression, 5; gait, 4; color, 4; coat, 2; skull, 6;
cheeks and chops, 2; stop, 5; ears, 8; eyes, 4; wrin-
kles, 4; nose, 3; jaws, 6; teeth, 2; shoulders, 5; back,
5; neck, 4; chest, 3; ribs, 4; brisket, 3; belly, 2;
forelegs, 4; hindlegs, 3; feet, 3; tail, 4. Total, 100,

231

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

THE DALMATIAN

This attractive breed of dogs comes from Dal-
matia and the country adjacent to the Gulf of
Venice. In their native land they serve the purpose
of the Pointer and resemble them closely in con-
formation and appearance.

In this country their sporting proclivities have
never been developed, but they display such marked
fondness for the stable and the companionship of
horses that they are known as coach dogs. The well-
bred coach dog*s devotion to horses is really second
nature or an instinct. He will assume the duties of
guard about a stable, follow the horses at exercise,
and take up a position between the wheels of a car-
riage on the road, without any particular training.
He is peculiarly adapted for the purpose, as he is of
a size and build that will enable him to keep easy
pace with the horses for a long distance. He is big
enough and plucky enough to command the respect
and caution of intruders. His smooth, short coat is
always clean, and his symmetrical proportions, in-
telligent features and clean, white body, evenly
spotted with black, make him an attractive addition
to any equipage. By reason of his markings, he is
also easier seen at night than any other breed.

The Coach Dog is usually of friendly disposition,
though inclined to be distrustful of those who take

232

SPECIALTY DOGS

liberties with the equipage to which he may be at-
tached, and although he is sometimes said to be
deficient in intelligence, the fact that he is usually a
clever member of all performing dog acts contra-
dicts this opinion.

In selecting puppies, it is well to remember that
they are bom pure white, the spots developing with
age. Puppies curl their tails, which often become
straight with age. After that general symmetry,
soundness, clean pointer-like heads, and distinctness
of spots are the points to be looked for.

The standard and scale of points of the Dalmatian
I Club is as follows:

The Dalmatian in many respects much resembles
the Pointer, more especially in size, build, and out-
line, though the markings peculiar to this breed are a
very important feature, and very highly valued.

In General Appearance the Dalmatian should
represent a strong, muscular, and active dog, sym-
metrical in outline, free from coarseness and lumber,
capable of great endurance, combined with a fair
amount of speed.

The Head should be of fair length, the skull flat,
rather broad between the ears, and moderately well
defined at the temples — /. ^., exhibiting a moderate
amount of "stop," and not in one straight line from
the nose to the occiput bone, as required in a Bull
Terrier. It should be entirely free from wrinkle.

The Muzzle should be long and powerful, the
lips clean, fitting the jaws moderately close.

The Eyes should be set moderately well apart^

233

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and of medium size, round, bright, and sparkling,
with an intelligent expression, their color greatly
depending on the markings of the dog: in the black*
spotted variety the eyes should be dark (black or
brown); in the liver-spotted variety they should be
light (yellow or light brown). The rim around the
eyes in the black-spotted variety should be black;
brown in the liver-spotted variety; never flesh-
colored in either.

The Ears should be set on rather high, of mod-
erate size, rather wide at the base, tapering to a
rounded point. They should be carried close to the
head, be thin and fine in texture, and always spotted,
the more profusely the better.

The Nose in the black-spotted variety should
always be black; in the liver-spotted variety, always
brown.

Neck and Shoulders. — ^The neck should be
fairly long, nicely arched, light, and tapering, and
entirely free from throatiness. The shoulders
should be moderately oblique, clean, and muscular,
denoting speed.

Body, Back, Chest, and Loins. — ^The chest
should not be too wide, but very deep and capacious;
ribs moderately well sprung; never rounded like
barrel hoops (which would indicate want of speed) ;
the back powerful; loin strong, muscular, and
slightly arched.

Legs and Feet are of great importance. The
forelegs should be perfectly straight, strong, and
heavy in bone; elbows close to the body; fore feet

234

SPECIALTY DOGS

rounds compact, and well arched; toes cat-footed,
and round, tough, elastic pads. In the hindlegs the
muscles should be clean, though well defined, the
hocks well let down.

Nails. — In the black-spotted variety, black and
white; in the liver-spotted variety, brown and white.

The Tail should not be too long, but should be
strong at the insertion, gradually tapering toward
the end, and free from coarseness. It should not be
inserted too low down, but carried with a slight
curve upward, and never curled. It should be
spotted, the more profusely the better.

The Coat should be short, hard, dense, and fine,
sleek, and glossy in appearance, but neither woolly
nor silky.

Color and Markings. — ^These are most important
points. The ground-color in both varieties should
be pure white, very decided, and not intermixed.
The color of the spots in the black-spotted variety
should be black, the deeper and richer the black the
better; in the liver-spotted variety they should be
brown. The spots should not intermingle, but be
as round and well defined as possible, the more
distinct the better.

Value of Points. — Head and eyes, lo; legs and
feet, 15; ears, 5; coat, 5; neck and shoulders, lO;
body, back, chest, and loins, lO; color and markings,
30; tail, 5; size, symmetry, etc., 10. Total, 100.

235

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

THE POODLE

The Poodle is naturally a sporting dog^ and was
formally used for that purpose. No d(^ surpasses
him as a retriever from the water, and he is still
used for that purpose in £urop>e. The breed is well
distributed over the Continent, and there are
Russian and German Poodles, as well as those of
France, which is generally considered their native
home.

No dog surpasses the Poodle in inteUigence; in
fact, no dog is his equal, and he is best kno^yn to the
public as the star artist in all companies of perform-
ing dogs. He has a quality of mind that borders on
the human; his reasoning powers are evident to all
with whom he is associated, and there is apparently
no limit to his aptitude for learning. Poodles are
divided into two varieties, and both have escaped
the greatest popularity simply on account of the
quality of their coats, which require considerable
attention to keep in show condition. In all other
respects they require no more attention than other
dogs, and all who are familiar with the breed are
firm in their belief that no dog is so interesting a
companion.

There are two varieties of Poodles recognized on
the show bench — the corded and the curly-coated.
The only difference between them lies in the char-
acter of the coat. The coat of the curlies is kept
short and combed out to give it a flufiy appearance.
The coat of the corded is encouraged to grow out

236

SPECIALTY DOGS

until it attains abnormal lengths. The two varieties
are identical. A curly-coat that is not combed out
will grow a corded coat, for if the curls are not inter-
fered with they will twist into little cords which in-
crease in length steadily as the unshed old hair and
the new growth entwine into rope-like cords, which,
if not cut or broken off, will eventually drag along
the ground and impede locomotion. It is this fact
which accounts for the curly variety being more
popular than the showier corded variety.

The Poodle is usually shown fantastically clipped,
the pattern varying with the tastes of the owner.
It is the rule to shave the face, legs, and loins, with
the exception of tufts of hair here and there, and a
lion-like mane and body covering.

Both the curly and the corded varieties are di-
vided by weight, the large class scaling as high as
seventy pounds, and the toys in the vicinity of five
pounds.

Soundness of color is desired; black, white, brown,
and blue are correct. It is said that the whites are
most intelligent, next the blacks, and then the
browns and blues.

In selecting puppies, look for long heads, dark
eyes, and narrow skulls, with clean neck and shoulders,
straight forelegs, short backs, and well sprung ribs.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
Poodle puppies at from two to four months old,
whether large or toy, are: Great length of head,
dark eyes, narrow skull, short back, well-sprung
ribs, clean neck and shoulders, straight forelegs.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The following are the description and points as
laid down by the Poodle Club:

General Appearance. — ^That of a very active,
intelligent, and elegant-looking dog, well built, and
carrying himself very proudly.

Head. — ^Long, straight, and fine, the skull not
broad, with a slight peak at the back.

Muzzle. — Long (but not snipy) and strong — not
full in cheek; teeth white, strong, and level; gums
black, lips black and not showing lippiness.

Eyes. — ^Almond-shaped, very dark, full of fire and
intelligence.

Nose. — Black and sharp.

Ears. — ^The leather long and wide, low set on,
hanging close to the face.

Neck. — ^Well proportioned and strong, to admit
of the head being carried high and with dignity.

Shoulders. — Strong and muscular, sloping well
to the back.

Chest. — Deep and moderately wide.

Back. — Short, strong, and slightly hollowed, the
loins broad and muscular, the ribs well sprung and
braced up.

Feet. — Rather small, and of good shape, the toes
well arched, pads thick and hard.

Legs. — Fore set straight from shoulder, with
plenty of bone and muscle. Hind legs very mus-
cular and well bent, with the hocks well let down.

Tail. — Set on rather high, well carried, never
curled or carried over back.

Coat. — Very profuse, and of good, hard texture;

238

SPECIALTY DOGS

if corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non-
corded, very thick and strong, of even length, the
curls close and thick, without knots or cords.

Colors. — All black, all white, all red, all blue.

The White Poodle should have dark eyes, black
or very dark liver nose, lips, and toenails.

The Red Poodle should have dark amber eyes,
dark liver nose, lips, and toenails.

The Blue Poodle should be of an even color,
and have dark eyes, lips, and toenails.

All the other points of White, Red, and Blue
Poodles should be the same as the perfect Black
Poodle.

N. B. — It is strongly recommended that only
one-third of the body be clipped or shaved, and that
the hair on the forehead be left on.

Value of Points. — General appearance and move-
ment, 15; head and ears, 15; eyes and expression,
lO; neck and shoulders, lO; shape of body, loin,
back, and carriage of stern, 15; legs and feet, 10;
coat, color, and texture of coat, 15; bone, muscle,
and condition, 10. Total, 100.

THE CHOW CHOW

This breed is undoubtedly descended from the
Arctic dog. They come from the north of China,
where they are used to draw sledges and also for
hunting. The head and ears and general expression
as well as their fur-like coat and curled tail, all in-
dicate their relationship to the Esquimaux. They
are sometimes referred to as the edible dog of China,

239

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

fiiom the fact that the Chinese breed them for food,
puppies eight to ten months old being selected for
that purpose. Although Chows have been brought
to this and other countries for the past one hundred
years, it is only within the last quarter of a century
that they have been received with much favor. At
the present time they are very popular.

There is a good deal of character to the Chow,
despite the fact that he is sometimes referred to as
a Chink. No dog has a braver spirit or is more de-
voted to his master. They are not, however, what
may be called sociable, and do not make up with
strangers, and hold themselves aloof even from their
own species. They are not quarrelsome, but will
not evade a combat, and in a mix-up can hold their
own with any dog of their size. Their homing in-
stinct is remarkable and it is almost impossible to
lose them. They will find their way for miles
through a country entirely new to them, and if
they become separated from their masters in a
crowd will thread their way through with the utmost
confidence in their own ability until they find him;
all of which are traits inherited from their Arctic
ancestors.

Up to the present time there has been no interest
shown toward dwarfing this breed to increase their
popularity as pets. Dogs weighing from Torty to
fifty pounds are considered by judges as the most
typical of the breed. The most popular color is the
red, with black next, and following in favor is the
red with white markings, fawn, white and blue.

240

SPECIALTY DOGS

The chief points to look for in the selection of
puppies of from two to four months old, are: Short
faces, short backs, dense coats, great bone, short
feet, and well-twisted tails.

The standard description issued by the Chow
Chow Club is as follows;

Head. — ^Large and massive; skull flat and broad,
with little stop; well filled out under the eyes.

Muzzle. — Moderate in length, and broad from
the eyes to the point (not pointed out at the end like
a fox's); lips full and overhanging.

Nose. — Black, large, and wide. (In cream or
light-colored specimens a pink nose is allowable.)

Tongue. — Black.

Eyes. — Dark and small. (In a blue dog light
color is permissible.)

Ears. — Small, pointed, and carried stiflly erect.
They should be placed well forward over the eyes,
which gives the dog the peculiar characteristic ex-
pression of the breed — viz., a sort of scowl.

Teeth. — Strong and level.

Neck. — Strong, full, set well on the shoulders,
and slightly arched.

Shoulders. — Muscular and sloping.

Chest. — Broad and deep.

Back. — Short, straight, and strong.

Loins. — ^Powerful.

Tail. — Curled, well carried over back.

Forelegs. — ^Perfectly straight, of moderate length,
and with great bone.

241

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

HiNDLEGS. — Same as forel^, muscular, and with
straight hocks.

Feet. — Small, round, and cat-like, standing well
on the toes.

Coat. — ^Abundant, dense, straight, and rather
coarse in texture, with a soft, woolly undercoat.

Color. — ^Whole-colored black, red, yellow, blue,
white, not in patches (the under part of tail and
back of thighs frequently of a lighter color.)

General Appearance. — ^A lively, compact, short-
coupled dog, well knit in frame, with tail curled well
over the back.

Disqualifying Points. — Drop ears, red tongue,
tail not curled over back, white spots on coat, and
red nose, except in yellow or white specimens.

N. B. — Smooth Chows are governed by the same
scale of points, except that the coat is smooth.

The points to avoid are: Other than black tongues,
long faces, drop ears, open coats, bad fronts, long
backs, and very straight stifles, which latter is a
rather common defect in the breed.

THE TOY SPANIELS

King Charles, Prince Charles, Blenheim,

AND Ruby

The four Spaniels classified as toys were until a
recent period all known as King Charles Spaniels.
The division into four varieties is governed entirely
by their color, as they are alike in all other respects.
In fact, it is not an unusual occurrence for the four
varieties to be present in one litter.

242

TOY AND LAP DOGS

The King Charles is a glossy black with rich ma-
hogany markings, tan spots over the eyes, on the
cheeks, the lining of the ear, and the lower parts of
the legs and under part of the tail. White is not
permissible in the variety, although at one time
black-and-white was accepted as a desirable color.

The Prince Charles was produced by the inter-
breeding of the black-and-white and black-and-tan
King Charles Spaniels. They are a pearly white,
with evenly distributed glossy black markings cover-
ing the body in patches; tan over the eyes and on the
cheeks; ears lined with tan, and with tan under the
tail.

The Blenheim is red and white in color. They
should be pearly white, with patches of rich red
chestnut or ruby red, evenly distributed over the
body. The ears and cheeks must be red and a
white blaze should extend from the nose to the fore-
head and then curve between the ears. Much im-
portance is attached to the presence in the middle
of the blaze of a spot of red the size of a dime. This
mark is called the Blenheim spot, and in connection
with a profuse m^-ne, is considered as adding much
to the beauty of the breed.

The Ruby is, as its name indicates, a rich, un-
broken ruby red, the nose, of course, being black.
The Ruby is the latest member of this family, but
one already very popular, and many good specimens
are being shown.

There is no question about the long descent and
aristocratic associations of the Toy Spaniels, for

243

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

they have been the favorites of royalty for many
years. They are frequently mentioned in history
and occupy prominent positions in the portraiture
of various periods. They were popular with royalty
in the days of Henry the Eighth and Queen Eliza-
beth. Charles the Second was devoted to them^
and during his reign they were said to have overrun
Hampton Court and other palaces. The unhappy
Queen of Scots went to the scaffold accompanied by
her spaniel, and the Marlborough family, dating
from the first duke, had a red-and-white spaniel at
their country place, Blenheim, that was known by
that name.

It is generally believed that the toy spaniel came
from Spain in much their present form, or were bred
from Cocker Spaniels in England. They resemble
the Cocker in disposition, have the same colors and
markings, and the Blenheim spot previously re-
ferred to is frequently present on the forehead of
Cockers.

The portraits of Van Dyke, Boucher, and Greuze,
in which spaniels are frequently introduced, show
the toy spaniel of the past had a longer nose and
smaller head than those of the present day, and that
their ears were longer and often dragged on the
ground. The Blenheims of Marlborough were also
used for working the coverts for pheasant and
woodcock shooting, and were said to have had
splendid noses, which many still possess.

The fact that the dogs in the old portraits differed
but little from the authentic portraits of Cockers in

244

TOY AND LAP DOGS

the beginning of the last century confirms the be-
lief in their relationship.

The contention that the toy spaniel is descended
from the Japanese Spaniel is contradicted by differ-
ences in character, as the Jap has more of the dispo-
sition of the Pug.

The chief points to look for in the selection of all
English Toy Spaniel puppies at from two to four
months old are the same, except, of course, color, to
which some weight should be given according to the
standard laid down. They are: Diminutiveness
compatible with soundness and robustness, extreme
shortness of face, large eyes, lofty skull, short body,
nicely proportioned all around, low-set and rather
long ears.

The following are the standard description and
points of the four varieties as laid down by the Toy
Spaniel Club:

Head. — Should be well domed, and in good speci-
mens is absolutely semi-globular, sometimes even
extending beyond the half-circle, and absolutely pro-
jecting over the eyes, so as nearly to meet the up-
turned nose.

Eyes. — ^The eyes are set wide apart, with the
eyelids square to the line of the face — not oblique or
fox-15ke. The eyes themselves are large, so as to be
generally considered black; their enormous pupils,
which are absolutely of that color, increasing the de-
scription. From their large size there is almost a
certain amount of weeping shown at the inner
angles; this is owing to a defect in the lachrymal duct.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Stop. — ^The "stop," or hollow between the eyes,
is well marked, as in the Bulldog, or even more so;
some good specimens exhibiting a hollow deep
enough to bury a small marble.

Nose. — ^The nose must be short and well turned
up between the eyes, and without any indication of
artificial displacement afforded by a deviation to
either side. The color of the end should be black,
and it should be both deep and wide, with open
nostrils.

Jaw. — ^The lower jaw must be wide between its
branches, leaving plenty of space for the tongue
and for the attachment of the lower lips, which
should completely conceal the teeth. It should also
be turned up or "finished," so as to allow of its
meeting the end of the upper jaw, turned up in a
similar way as above described.

Ears. — ^The ears must be long, so as to approach
the ground. In an average-sized dog they measure
20 inches from tip to tip, and some reach 22 inches,
or even a trifle more. They should be set low on the
head, and be heavily feathered. In this respect the
King Charles is expected to exceed the Blenheim,
and his ears occasionally extend to 24 inches.

Size. — ^The most desirable size is from 9 pounds to
12 pounds.

Shape. — In compactness of shape these Spaniels
almost rival the Pug, but the length of coat adds
greatly to the apparent bulk, as the body, when the
coat is wetted, looks small in comparison with that
dog. Still it ought to be decidedly "cobby," with

246

TOY AND LAP DOGS

strong, stout legs, broad back, and wide chest. The
symmetry of the Toy Spaniel is of importance, but
it is seldom that there is any defect in this respect.

Coat. — ^The coat should be long, silky, soft, and
wavy, but not curly. In the Blenheim there should
be a profuse mane, extending well down in the front
of the chest. The feather should be well displayed
on the ears and feet, where it is so long as to give the
appearance of their being webbed. It is also carried
well up the backs of the legs. In the King Charles
the feather on the ears is very long and profuse, ex-
ceeding that of the Blenheim by an inch or more.
The feather on the tail (which is cut to the length
of about 3^ or four inches) should be silky, and
from 5 to 6 inches in length, constituting a marked
"flag" of a square shape, and not carried above the
level of the back.

Color. — The color varies with the breed. The
King Charles is a rich, glossy black and deep tan
spots over the eyes and on cheeks, and the usual
markings on the legs are also required. The Ruby
Spaniel is a rich chestnut red. The presence of a
few white hairs intermixed with the black on the
chest of a King Charles Spaniel, or intermixed with
the red on the chest of a Ruby Spaniel shall carry
great weight against a dog, but shall not in itself
absolutely disqualify; but a white patch on the
chest or white on any other part of a King Charles
or Ruby Spaniel shall be a disqualification. The
Blenheim must on no account be whole-colored, but
should have a ground of pure pearly white, with

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

bright rich chestnut or ruby red markings evenly
distributed in large patches.

The ears and cheeks should be red, with a blaze
of white extending from the nose up to the forehead
and ending between the ears in a crescentive curve.
In the center of this blaze there should be a clear
"spot" of red of the size of a sixpence. The tricolor,
or Charles the First Spaniel, should have the tan of
the King Charles, with markings like the Blenheim
in black instead of red on a pearly white ground.
The ears and under the tail should also be lined with
tan. The tricolor has no "spot," that beauty being
peculiarly the property of the Blenheim. The club has
resolved that the All-red Toy Spaniel be known by the
name of "Ruby Spaniel." The color of the nose to
be black. The points of the "Ruby" to be the same
as those of the "King Charles," differing only in
color.

Value of Points. — King Charles, Prince Charles,
and Ruby Spaniels: Symmetry, condition, and size,
20; head, 15; stop, 5; muzzle, lO; eyes, lo; ears, 15;
coat and feathering, 15; color, 10. Total, 100.
Blenheim: Symmetry, condition, and size, 15; head,
15; stop, 5; muzzle, lO; eyes, lO; ears, 10; coat and
feathering, 15; color and markings, 15; spot, 5.
Total, 100.

THE JAPANESE SPANIEL

These diminutive Orientals have for a number ot
years enjoyed a remarkable vogue in both this
country and in Europe. They are not as popular

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TOY AND LAP DOGS

to-day as they were a few years ago, but a good
specimen never fails to command admiration and
a handsome price.

The Japanese Spaniel is a native of Nippon. In
general appearance, they resemble the Toy Spaniel
species, but are in no ways related. Like them, they
are short-faced toys quite similar in shape and alike
in coat, except that black-and-white is the prevail-
ing color.

The Jap differs from the Toy Spaniel in the shape
of the head, which is less domed, and the placement
of the eye, which is more to the side. The ears are
placed higher on the head, the nostrils are smaller,
the foreface is wider and not so deep.

The first Japs imported were on the large order,
many of them scaling over ten pounds. Later it
was learned that in Japan only the diminutive spec-
imens weighing in the vicinity of five pounds were
in demand, and that these dogs were carried in the
sleeves of the ladies of rank and fashion. There
was an immediate slump in the values of the larger
Japs and a craze for the smallest obtainable. Many
were imported and English and American breeders
also devoted themselves to bantamizing the Jap.
They succeeded admirably, and now there are many
small-sized Japs of splendid quality in this country.

The Japanese Spaniel, particularly the dwarfed
specimens, are delicate and hard to raise. Dis-
temper carries oflF many and they are susceptible to
many diseases.

The Jap has, above all things, the appearance of an

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

aristocrat, with a finished dignity and self-satisfied
air of importance that is an amusing contrast to his
diminutive size. They make interesting companions
and affectionate pets.

Points to look for in puppies are very similar to
those given for English Toy Spaniels.

The following is the description and points laid
down by the Japanese Spaniel Club:

General Appearance. — That of a lively, highly-
bred little dog, with dainty appearance, smart, com-
pact carriage, and profuse coat. These dogs should
be essentially stylish in movement, lifting the feet
high when in motion, carrying the tail (which is
heavily feathered, proudly curved, or plumed) over
the back. In size they vary considerably, but the
smaller they are the better, provided type and quality
are not sacrificed. When divided by weight, classes
should be for under and over seven pounds.

Coats. — ^The coats should be long, profuse, and
straight, free from curl or wave, and not be too flat.
It should have a tendency to stand out, more par-
ticularly at the frill, with profuse feathering on the
tail and thighs*

Color. — ^The dogs should be either black-and-
white or red-and-white — /• e.y parti-colored. The
term red includes all shades of sable, brindle, lemon,
and orange, but the brighter and clearer the red the
better. The white should be clear white, and the
color, whether black or red, should be evenly dis-
tributed patches over the body, cheeks, and ears.

Head. — Should be large for size of dog, with

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TOY AND LAP DQGS

broad skull, rounded in front; eyes large, dark, set
far apart; muzzle very short and wide and well
cushioned — /. e.y the upper lip rounded on each
side of nostril, which should be large and black, ex-
cept in the case of red-and-white dogs, when a
brown-colored nose is as common as a black one.

Ears. — Should be small, set wide apart, and high
on the dog's head, and carried slightly forward,
V-shaped.

Body. — Should be squarely and compactly built,
wide in chest, "cobby** in shape. The length of the
dog's body should be about its height.

Legs and Feet. — The legs should be straight and
the bone fine; the feet should be long and hare-
shaped. The legs should be well feathered to the
feet on the front legs and to the thighs behind. The
feet should also be feathered.

Value of Points. — Head: Size of head, 5; shape
of skull, 5 ; shortness of nose, 5 ; width of muzzle, 5 ;
eyes, lO; ears, 5; coat and feathering, 15; color and
markings, 10; legs and feet, lO; action, shape, style,
and carriage of tail, 20; size, 10. Total, 100.

THE YORKSHIRE TERRIER

This elegant breed make most interesting pets
and companions, for they are keen, active, and in-
telligent, and on the show bench never fail to attract
attention on account of the length, color, quantity,
and quality of their coat.

It would naturally be supposed that the finest
specimens of this breed would be found in the homes

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

of the rich, but as a matter of fact they are ahnost
invariably in the homes of the poor, usually in the
hands of some working man whose wife and family
are devoted to dogs and are quite ready to convert
their home into a kennel and give their pets the
constant attention which they require, not only to
grow these wonderful coats, but also to preserve
them. It may also be mentioned that considerable
skill is also essential. The feet of even the puppies
are stockinged to prevent scratching of the hair on
any part of their bodies. They are combed and
brushed every day, periodically bathed, and the
skin carefully watched and kept in a healthy condi-
tion by a careful selection of diet and the applica-
tion of various preparations, such as olive oil,
cocoanut oil, and vaseline, as well as other carefully-
guarded private preparations which stimulate the
roots of the hair. Necessarily these dogs lead a life
of imprisonment. They are given woolen cloths or
cushions and smooth, soft mats to sleep upon, and
every precaution is taken to prevent them coming
in contact with anything that would mat their coats.

At birth all Yorkshire Terriers are black. When
from three to six months of age a blue shade begins
to develop at the roots of the hair. This gradually
changes until they are from twelve to eighteen
months, at which age the coat should be a real
golden tan, deepening at the head, with the ears
and legs almost mahogany.

In selecting Yorkshire Terrier puppies diminutive-
ness, shortness of back, and lightness of bone should

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TOY AND LAP DOGS

be looked for^ as well as anything that indicates the
long, straight coat, with the dark tan on head and
legs.

The following are the description and standard of
points of the Yorkshire Terrier Club:

General Appearance. — Should be that of a long-
coated Toy Terrier, the coat hanging quite straight
and evenly jdown each side, a parting extending
from the nose to the end of the tail.

The animal should be very compact and neat,
the carriage being very upright, and having an im-
portant air. The general outline should convey the
existence of a vigorous and well-proportioned body.

Head. — Should be rather small and flat, not too
prominent or round in the skull, not too long in the
muzzle, with a perfectly black nose. The fall on
the head to be long, of a rich golden tan, deeper in
color at the sides of the head about the ear roots,
and on the muzzle, where it should be very long.
The hair on the chest a rich bright tan. On no ac-
count must the tan on the head extend on to the
neck, nor must there be any sooty or dark hair in-
termingled with any of the tan.

Eyes. — Medium, dark, and sparkling, having a
sharp, intelligent expression, and placed so as to
look directly forward. They should not be prom-
inent, and the edge of the eyelids should be of a
dark color.

Ears.— Small V-shaped, and carried semi-erect,
or erect, covered with short hair, color to be of a
very deep, rich tan.

u 253

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Mouth. — ^Perfectly even, with teeth as sound as
possible. If an animal has lost any teeth through
accident it is not a fault, providing the jaws are even.

Body. — ^Very compact, and a ^3od loin. Level on
the top of the back.

Coat. — ^The hair on body moderately long and
perfectly straight (not wavy), glossy like silk, and
of a fine silky texture. Color, a dark steel blue (not
silver blue) extending from the occiput (or back of
skull) to the root of tsul, and on no account mingled
with fawn, bronze, or dark hairs.

Legs. — Quite straight, well covered with hair of a
rich golden tan, a few shades lighter at the ends
than at the roots, not extending higher on the fore-
legs than the elbow, nor on the hindlegs than the
stifle.

Feet. — ^As round as possible, and the toenails
black.

Tail. — Cut to medium length; with plenty of
hair, darker blue in color than the rest of the body,
especially at the end of the tail, and carried a little
higher than the level of the back.

Tan. — All tan hair should be darker at the roots
than in the middle, shading to a still lighter tan at
the tips.

Weight. — ^Three classes: 5 pounds and under;
7 pounds and under, but over 5 pounds; over 7
pounds.

Value of Points. — Formation and Terrier ap-
pearance, 15; color of h^ on body, 15; richness of
tan on head and legs, 15; quality and texture of

254

TOY AND LAP DOGS

coat, lO; quantity and length of coat, lO; head, lO;
mouth, 5; legs and feet, 5; ears, 5; eyes, 5; tail
(carriage of), 5. Total, 100.

THE ITALIAN GREYHOUND

The Italian Greyhound is a very old breed, de-
scended from the dwarfed Greyhounds that were
kept as domestic pets. For delicacy, refinement,
grace, and gentleness they have no equals. There is
little of the aggressive spirit about them, their most
striking trait being their universal docility. They
are too light for work of any kind and have no in-
clination in that direction, and many will play with
a rat or rabbit without a thought of animosity.

The delicate lines of the Italian Greyhound, their
soft, pleading eyes, gentle natures, and cleanly
habits commend them to the public. It may be
mentioned, however, that they are not as fragile as
they appear. They have much stronger constitu-
tions than is generally supposed. Naturally they
are not able to endure much cold or dampness, but
other than that they require no pampering, and
many are extremely long lived.

One of the peculiarities of the breed lies in their
action, as they have a high-stepping walk much like
the high-school horses of a circus ring.

The chief points to select for in puppies at from
two to four months are diminutiveness, slightness,
and apparent fragility, with a distinct arch of loin.

The following are the points and standard descrip-
tion of the Italian Greyhound Club:

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

General Appearance. — ^A miniature English
Greyhound^ more slender in all proportions, and of
ideaJ elegance and grace in shape, symmetry, and
action.

Skull. — ^Long, flat, and narrow.

Muzzle. — ^Very fine. Nose dark in color. Teeth
level.

Ears. — Ears rose-shaped, placed well back, soft
and delicate.

Eyes. — Rather large, bright, and full of expres-
sion.

Neck. — ^Long and gracefully arched.

Shoulders. — ^Long and sloping.

Chest. — Deep and narrow.

Back. — ^Curved, and drooping at the hindquarters.

Forelegs. — Straight, well set under the shoulder;
fine pasterns, small delicate bones.

HiNDLEGs. — ^Hocks Well let down. Thighs mus-
cular.

Feet. — ^The long "hare's foot."

Tail. — Rather long, fine, with low carriage.

Coat. — Skin fine and supple. Hair thin imd
glossy like satin.

Color. — Preferably self-colored. The color most
prized is golden fawn, but all shades of fawn — red,
mouse, blue, cream, and white — are recognized; and
blacks, brindles, and pied are considered less de-
sirable. Black and tan terrier markings not al-
lowed.

Action. — ^High stepping and free.

Weight. — ^Two classes. One of 8 pounds and

256

TOY AND LAP DOGS

under, and one over 8 pounds. A good small dog
is preferable to an equally good large one, and a
good large dog is preferable to a poor small one.

Value of Points. — Skull, 6; muzzle, 8; ears, 8;
eyes, 5; neck, 8; shoulders, 5; chest, 5; back, 8; fore-
legs, 8; hindlegs, 8; feet, 8; tail, 8; coat, 4; color, 3;
action, 8; Total, 100.

THE POMERANIAN

This vivacious and interesting breed that has
strongly causht the fancy of the country is nothing
more or less than a pocket edition of the old-fashioned
Spitz, a dog always popular with the Germans.

The Pomeranian derives its name from the prov-
ince of Pomerania, in the north of Germany. Here
these dogs are very numerous, being, in fact, the
house dog of that country, and are there bred to a
state of perfection. The ancestors of the Pom-
eranians are undoubtedly related to the Samoyede
and the Esquimaux. They both present a foxy
head, prick ears, curled tail, and a marked similarity
in coats. What the Germans did was to take the
material at hand and reduce it in size by careful
selection and in-breeding, so as to make them more
acceptable as house pets. This has been done
slowly. The old-fashioned Wolf Spitz or Wolf
Sable, a direct descendant of the Esquimaux,
weighed from 25 to 50 pounds. Thirty years ago
the Pomeranian of the show bench weighed from
fifteen to twenty-five pounds. To-day dozens of
them are benched weighing well below five pounds,

257

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

and all have the beauty, the vivacity, and the
marked characteristics of their early ancestors, the
same foxy head and ears, the short back, and the
enormous coat of their seventy-five pound Arctic
brethren.

The old-fashioned twenty-pound Pomeranian or
Spitz dog was usually white or sable in color. To-
day they range in color from all shades of black to
black-and-tan, orange, and tri-color.

There is to-day no more popular pet dog than the
Pom. They are very intelligent and faithful, as
well as more active dian most toys, and their di-
minutive size, vivacious manner, and wonderful
coat and coloring is always sure to attract attention,
particularly that of the fair sex.

The Pomeranian inherits from his rugged northern
ancestors a sturdy constitution. They are more
easily raised than most breeds, while their popularity
makes them profitable.

During the period that breeders were devoting
themselves to bantamizing the Pomeranian no at-
tention was paid to color. Sires were selected for
their size alone. Beautifully colored puppies, how-
ever, appeared from time to time, and this has
prompted many breeders to turn their attention to
color breeding. While no fixed principle has been
arrived at, a point has been reached whereby some
colors can be produced at will. Orange sires and
black or chocolate bitches produce usuaUy chocolate
puppies. Chocolate sires and orange or sable
bitches produce pure orange puppies. The blues are

258

TOY AND LAP DOGS

descendants of the blacks, but blue parents seldom
have blue puppies unless there is more blue behind
them. Orange and sable parents do not produce
blue puppies. After birth puppies frequently change
their colors, black puppies becoming blue, and blues
frequently turning into blacks and beautiful shades
of sable.

In selecting puppies, look for small size, light bone,
prick ears, short backs, and thick, heavy coats.

The following are the standard description and
points of the breed, as laid down by the Pomeranian
Club, and which have been adopted by other clubs:

Appearance. — ^The Pomeranian in build and ap-
pearance should be a compact, short-coupled dog,
well knit in frame. His head and face should be fox-
like, with small, erect ears that appear sensible to
every sound; he should exhibit great intelligence in
his expression, docility in his disposition, and
activity and buoyancy in his deportment. 15

Head. — ^The head should be somewhat foxy in
outline, or wedge-shaped, the skull being slightly
flat (although in the toy varieties the skull may be
rather rounder), large in proportion to the muzzle,
which should finish rather fine, and be free from
lippiness. The teeth should be level, and on no
account undershot. The head in its profile may ex-
hibit a little "stop," which, however, must not be
too pronounced, and the hair on head and face
must be smooth or short-coated. 5.

Eyes. — ^The eyes should be medium in size, rather
oblique in shape, not set too wide apart, bright and

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

dark in color, showing great intelligence and docility
of temper. In a white dog black rims round the
eyes are preferable. 5.

Ears. — ^The ears should be small, not set too far
apart nor too low down, and carried perfectly erect
like those of a fox, and, like the head, should be
covered with soft, short hair. No plucking nor
trimming is allowable. 5.

Nose. — In black, black-and-tan, or white dogs
the nose should be black; in other colored Pome-
ranians it may more often be brown or liver-colored,
but in all cases the nose must be self, not parti-
colored, and never white. 5.

Neck and Shoulders. — The neck, if anything,
should be rather short, well set in, and lion-like,
covered with a profuse mane and frill of long, straight
hair sweeping from the underjaw and covering the
whole of the front part of the shoulders and chest,
as well as the top part of the shoulders. The shoul-
ders must be tolerably clean and laid well back. 5.

Body. — ^The back must be short and the body
compact, being well ribbed up and the barrel well
rounded. The chest must be fairly deep and not
too wide. 10.

Tail. — ^The tail is a characteristic of the breed,
and should be turned over the back and carried flat,
being profusely covered with long, spreading hair, i o.

Coat. — Properly speaking, there should be two
coats, an under and over coat, the one a soft, fluffy
undercoat, the other a long, perfectly straight and
glistening coat covering the whole of the body, being

260

TOY AND LAP DOGS

very abundant round the neck and fore part of the
shoulders and chest, where it should form a frill of
profuse standing-ofF, straight hair, extending over
the shoulders, as previously described. The hind-
quarters, like those of the Collie, should be similarly
dad with long hair or feathering from the top of the
rump to the hocks. The hair on the tail must be,
as previously described, profuse and spreading over
the back. 25.

Color. — The following colors are admissible:
White, black, blue or grey, brown, sable, shaded
sable, red, orange, fawn, and parti-colors.

The whites must be quite free from lemon or any
color, and the blacks, blues, browns, and sables,
from any white. A few white hairs in any of the
self-colors shall not absolutely disqualify, but should
carry great weight against a dog.

In parti-colored dogs the colors should be evenly
distributed on the body in patches; a dog with a
white foot or a white chest would not be a parti-
colored. Whole-colored dogs with a white foot or
feet, leg or legs, are decidedly objectionable, and
should be discouraged, and cannot compete as whole-
colored specimens.

In mixed classes — i. e.y where whole-colored and
parti-colored Pomeranians compete together — the

Preference should, if in other points they are equal,
e given to the whole-colored specimens.
Shaded sables must be shaded throughout with
three or more colors, as uniformly as possible, with
no patches of self-color.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Oranges must be self-colored throughout, and
light shadings are allowed, though not desirable. lo.

SCHIPPERKE

The Schipperke conies from Belgium, where he is
the popular watch dog of the baizes used on Flemish
canals. There is a ledge one foot wide that runs
about the canal boats a short distance from the top.
Here the Schipperke (pronounced Skip-per-kee, the
Flemish for little skipper) spends his time. He is
trained to race around this ledge, acting as guard
and sentinel, an office for which he is particularly
well fitted, as he is the most wide awake, liveliest,
and inquisitive of canines. The slightest noise at-
tracts his attention, and he never neglects to in-
vestigate the cause.

The Schipperke is always shown tailless. To be
sure he is bom with a tail that curls up over his
back like a Pomeranian and suggests that as his
descent, but it was decreed on the canal boats
many years ago that the presence of the tail pre-
vented his owner from turning on the narrow ledge
as rapidly as he could without it. Occasionally, it
was said, that his tail precipitated him into the
water, and as a result a systematic docking was de-
creed. Continued for years, docking has had its in-
fluence upon the caudal appendage, for some are
now bom tailless and others have only a stump.
Those bom with normal taib are docked. This

262

TOY AND LAP DOGS

operation should be performed by a skillful vet-
erinarian, as the whole of the tail is removed, a
much more delicate operation than the case in the
docking of terriers.

The Schipperke is a very good water dog and does
not mind a ducking in the least. He is also a first-
class ratter.

There is no limit to his prying liveliness. They
are bright, smart, and very affectionate, so much so
as to be usually intensely jealous. While they con-
stitute themselves guardians of the household, they
usually select one member of the family as their par-
ticular property, and to them devote the greater
part of their attention.

The standard description and code of points
adopted by the Schipperke Club (England) are as
follows:

Head. — Foxy in type, skull should not be round,
but broad, and with little stop. The muzzle should
be moderate in length, fine but not weak; should be
well filled out under the eyes.

Nose. — Black and small.

Eyes. — Dark brown, small, more oval than round,
and not full; bright and full of expression.

Ears. — Shape: of moderate length, not too
broad at base, tapering to a point. Carriage: stifHy
erect, and when in that position the inside edge to
form as near as possible a right angle with the skull,
and strong enough not to be bent otherwise than
lengthways.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Teeth. — ^Strong and level.

Neck. — Strong and full, rather short, set broad
on the shoulders, and slightly arched.

Shoulders. — ^Muscular and sloping.

Chest. — Broad and deep in brisket.

Back. — ^Short, straight, and strone.

Loins. — ^Powerful, well drawn up hx>m the brisket.

Forelegs. — Perfectly straight, well under the
body, with bone in proportion to the body.

HiNDLEGS. — Strong, muscular; hocks well let
down.

Feet. — Small, catlike, and standing well on its
toes.

Nails. — Black.

Hindquarters. — ^Fine, compared to the fore-
parts; muscular and well-developed thighs, tailless,
rump well rounded.

Coat. — Black, abundant, dense, and harsh, smooth
on the head, ears, and lees, lying close on the back
and sides, but erect and thick round the neck, form-
ing a mane and frill, and well feathered on back of
thighs.

Weight. — ^About 12 pounds.

General Appearance. — ^A small, cobby animal,
with sharp expression, intensely lively, presenting
the appearance of always being on the alert.

Disqualifying Points. — Drop, or semi-erect ears.

Faults. — ^White hairs are objected to, but are not
disqualifying.

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THE PEKINGESE

At the present moment this breed is on the high
tide of popularity. Just how long they will continue
in that envied position it is impossible to say, as
fashions in the pet-dog world fluctuate rapidly, but
it is safe to say that their interesting personality will
always command a strong following.

The Pekingese share with the Chows the honor
of being the national dogs of China. That they
are a very old breed is indicated by the fact that
at the looting of the summer palace there were
found bronze statues of these dogs two thousand
years old. It is further claimed that the first dogs
brought to England in i860 were taken from within
the walls of the sacred city, and that since then few
from the Royal Kennels have found their way into
the outer world. There is, however, no difliculty in
procuring them from other sources, as they are bred
extensively in all the towns in China between Pekin
and the sea.

The Pekingese has been classified among the
spaniels by some authorities, which is a mistake, as
they are not of spaniel descent and have no spaniel
instincts or characteristics. On the contrary, they
are very much like the Pugs in disposition and tem-
perament, and undoubtedly there is a relationship
between them.

The Pekingese is a much hardier dog than the
Jap, easier bred and raised, and able to adapt them-
selves readily to most climates. There has been a

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

decided movement toward dwarf specimens of late
years^ and the inbreeding that has been practiced
with this object in view has weakened their constitu-
tions, but not to serious extent.

The admirers of the breed are very enthusiastic
over their dispositions. They are said to be most
affectionate and faithful companions, and lend them-
selves to domesticity with cat-like love of comfort.
They accept gracefully all the luxuries of civiliza-
tion. They display much of the independence and
pugnacity of the Pug and a most amusing self-pride
and conscious dignity in the presence of other dogs
or strangers.

In the selection of Pekingese puppies at from two
to four months old, look for: Diminutiveness com-
patible with soundness and robustness; shortness
and width of foreface; large eyes, deep stop, well-
wrinkled forehead, moderately short and compact
body, shortness of leg and great bone, with an
abundant and dense fur-like coat, tail well feathered,
and showing an indication to curl well over body.

The standard and scale of points is as follows:

Expression. — Must suggest Chinese origin com-
bined with quaintness and individuality, directness
and independence, courage, boldness, self-esteem,
and combativeness rather than prettiness, dainti-
ness, or delicacy. 5.

Head. — Massive, broad skull, wide and flat be-
tween the ears (not dome-shaped) ; wide between the
eyes. 10.

Nose. — Black, broad, very short and flat. 5.

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TOY AND LAP DOGS

Eyes. — ^Large, dark, prominent, round, lustrous. 5.

Stop. — Deep. 5.

Ears. — ^Heart-shaped, not set too high, leather
never long enough to come below the muzzle, not
carried erect, but rather drooping, long feather. 5.

Muzzle. — Very short and broad, not underhung
nor pointed, wrinkled. 5.

Mane. — ^Profuse, extending beyond shoulder
blades, forming ruff or frill round front of neck. 5.

Shape of Body. — Heavy in front, broad chest,
falling away lighter behind, lion-like, not too long
in the body. 10.

Coat and Feather and Condition. — ^Long, with
thick undercoat, straight and flat, not curly nor
wavy, rather coarse, but soft; feather on thighs, legs,
tail, and toes, long and profuse. 10.

Color, — ^All colors are allowable — red, fawn,
black, black-and-tan, sable, brindle, white and parti-
colored, black masks, and spectacles round eyes,
with lines to ears are desirable. 5.

Legs. — Short, forelegs heavy, bowed out at el-
bows; hindlegs lighter, but firm and well shaped. 5.

Feet. — Flat, not rounded; should stand well up
on toes, not on ankles. 5.

Tail. — Curled and carried well up on loins; long,
profuse, straight feather. 10.

Size. — Being a toy dog, the smaller the better,
provided type and points are not sacrificed. Any-
thing over 18 pounds should disqualify. When di-
vided by weight, classes should be over 10 pounds
and under 10 pounds. 5.

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Action. — ^Free, strong, and high, crossing feet or
throwing them out in running should not take off
marks. Weakness of joints should be penalized. lo.

THE BRUSSELS GRIFFON

This pert, wide-awake and amusing breed orig-
inated, as their name indicates, at the Belgian cap-
ital. It is said, however, that English dogs, the
Yorkshire, the Ruby Spaniel, and the Irish Terrier
were associated in the manufacture, while some
authorities claim that as far back as the 70's the
miners of Yorkshire possessed a little, wiry, red-
coated dog similar in appearance and disposition to
the Belgian dog, that accompanied them to their
work stowed away in a roomy pocket.

The Belgian Griffon gets his short, turned-up nose
from the Toy Spaniel; his light-colored topknot can
be attributed to the Yorkshire; while his independ-
ence, the character of his coat and color must be
credited to the Irish Terrier. By careful selection
the type of these dogs is well fixed, and they breed
remarkably true considering their recent origin. All
breeders find themselves confronted from time to
time with litters containing long faces, fluffy coats,
and over sized.

In Belgium there are two varieties, the rough and
the smooth coated. It is, however, a misnomer to
apply the term griffon to the smooths, as the word
means rough. The rough coats are by far the most
popular in Belgium, as well as elsewhere, and the
breed has caught on rapidly wherever introduced,

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TOY AND LAP DOGS

for they are bright, entertaining pets and companions,
and their dignity in relation to their size is most
amusing.

In Belgium the breed is cropped as well as docked,
but in this country, as will be seen from the accom-
panying standard, the mutilation is not permissible.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
puppies at from two to four months old and after
are: Extreme shortness of face, short, compact
bodies, crisp coats, good sound red color, and
diminutiveness.

The following are the standard description and
code of points laid down by the Griffon Bruxellois
Club, as revised at the general meeting in Brussels:

General Appearance. — A lady's pet dog, in-
telligent, sprightly, robust, of compact appearance,
reminding one of a cob, and captivating the atten-
tion by a quasi-human expression.

Head. — Large and rounded, covered with rather
coarse hair, rough, somewhat longer around the
eyes, nose, and cheeks.

Ears. — Semi-erect when not clipped, erect when
clipped.

Eyes. — ^Very large, black or nearly black; eye-
lashes long and black; eyelids often edged with
black; eyebrows furnished with hair, leaving the
eye perfectly uncovered.

Nose. — ^Always black, short, surrounded with
hair, converging upwards and going to meet those
that surround the eyes; the break or stop in the nose
well pronounced.

w 269

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Lips. — ^Edged with black, furnished with a mous-
tache; a little black in the moustache is not a fault.

Chik. — Prominent, without showing the teeth,
and furnished with a small beard.

Chest. — Rather wide and deep.

Legs. — As straight as possible; of medium length.

Tail. — Upwards, and cut to the two-thirds.

Color. — Red.

Texture of Coat. — ^Harsh and wiry, rather long
and thick.

Weight. — Small dogs, male and female, 5 pounds,
maximum. Big dogs, 9 pounds, maximum. Large
bitches, 10 pounds.

Faults. — Pale eyes; silky tuft on head; brown
toenails; showing teeth.

Disqualification. — Brown nose; white marks;
tongue protruding.

THE TOY POODLE

The Toy Poodle is a miniature replica of the
French Poodle, and, like them, one of the most in-
telligent, affectionate, and interesting of canine pets.

The points to look for in selecting puppies at
from two to four months being: Great length of
head, narrow skull, short back, well-sprung ribs,
clean neck and shoulders, straight forelegs.

Under the rules of the Poodle Club, which have
been recognized by the American Kennel Club, the
maximum weight limit is ten pounds, the standard
and value of other points being as follows:

The Head should be long, straight, and fine, not

270

TOY AND LAP DOGS

too broad between the eyes, with a slight peak at
the back; the muzzle long, not snipy, and beautifully
tapered underjaw; teeth level; lips black, and not
showing lippiness.

The Ears long and broad, dropping close to the
head.

Eyes. — Almond-shaped; black or dark brown if
brunette; blue or light brown if blonde; this where
the coat is white or lemon; in other colors the eyes
generally follow the color of the coat.

Chest. — Full, deep ribbed; loins slender, back
short, slightly curved; tail should not be carried
over the hip.

Legs. — Straight and well formed; feet round, with
toes well arched; pads thick and hard. Should stand
well up on his toes.

Coat. — Is curly; of a wiry texture.

In action is quick, proud, and graceful.

Value of Points. — General appearance and
movement, 15; head and ears, 15; neck and shoul-
ders, lO; body, back, and tail carriage, 25; color,
coat, and texture, 15; legs and feet, 10; bone, muscle,
and condition, 10. Total, 100.

THE MALTESE

These diminutive specimens of the canine race,
as their name indicates, are descended from native
dogs of the Island of Malta or Melita, in the Med-
iterranean Sea. They are amongst the oldest of
breeds. Certainly there are none older, for they are
mentioned three hundred years before the Christian

271

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

era. The principal thing about them that attracts
the interest of the public is their soft, silky, snowy-
white coat. They were more popular twenty-five
years ago than at the present time.

The Maltese does not thrive well except in a
moist climate. Even in England, where the climate
is damp, the most expert fanciers have their hands
full in keeping them in condition.

The Maltese as a rule breeds very true to type.
They are an ornament to a parlor or a carriage, but
there their usefulnesis begins and ends, for many of
them are snappish, and few of them have the in-
telligence of the average pet dog of other breeds.

The points to be considered in Maltese Terriers
are: size — the smaller the better, if sound — luxuriant
coat, and short body.

In selecting Maltese puppies at from two to four
months old, those are likely to make the best dogs
which are the smallest (not weaklings), possess most
coat, shortest bodies, and shortest legs.

The following is the standard description and
points of the Maltese Club of London:

Head. — Should not be too narrow, but should be
of a Terrier shape, not too long, but not apple-
headed.

Ears. — Should be long and well feathered, and
hang close to the side of the head, the hair to be
well mingled with the coat at the shoulders.

Eyes. — Should be a dark brown, with black eye
rims, and not too far apart.

Nose. — Should be pure black.

272

English Pugs: Ch. Crock o( Gold; Turret Shadrac; Stars and Stripes;
Turret Sambu; Kentucky Babe; Fiddle Head and puppies.

TOY AND LAP DOGS

Legs and Feet. — ^Legs should be straight, feet
round, and the pads of the feet should be black.

Body and Shape. — Should be short and cobby,
low to the ground, and the back should be straight
from the top of the shoulders to the tail.

Tail and Carriage. — Should be well arched over
the back and well feathered.

Coat: Length and Texture. — Should be a good
length, the longer the better, of a silky texture, not
in any way woolly, and should be straight.

Color. — It is desirable that they should be pure
white, but slight lemon marks should not count
against them.

Condition and Appearance. — Should be of a
sharp Terrier appearance, with a lively action; the
coat should not be stained, but should be well
groomed in every way.

Size. — The most approved weights should be
from 4 to 9 pounds, the smaller the better, but it is
desirable that they should not exceed lo pounds.

Value of Points. — Head, 5; ears, 5; eyes, 5;
nose, 5; legs and feet, 5; body and shape, lO; tail
and carriage, lO; coat and length, 20; color, 15; con-
dition and appearance, lO; size, 10. Total, 100.

THE PUG

There exists a popular opinion that this interest-
ing breed of toy dogs had its origin through a cross
of the Bulldog on some smaller breed. This suppo-
sition is incorrect. The Pug is a very old breed, and
shares with the Greyhound the honors of long de-

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

scent. It is probable that the Pug originated in
China, a land whose dogs are characterized by short
noses and curled tails. The Dutch, through their
East Indian Trading Company, brought these dogs
to Holland, and later they came to England, where
they were known for a time as Dutch Pugs. About
the middle of the last century two enthusiasts. Lady
de Willoughby and Mr. Morrison, established kennels
in England, and both succeeded in creating an ex-
traordinary vogue. The stock from their respective
kennels presented distinct characteristics and were
known accordingly. The Willoughby Pugs were
silver fawn, with very black marks and distinct
tracings. The Morrisons were of a brighter golden
fawn. The two strains have since been crossed so
many times that these characteristics have been
lost.

The Black Pug is a more recent production, and
appeared about 1886, and has since divided pop-
ularity with the fawns. They are all alike in every-
thing but color.

For many years the Pug was the most fashionable
of pet dogs, but long since has resigned that position
to the Spaniels and some of the newer breeds. They
still, however, have many staunch admirers.

Pugs are not lacking in intelligence, as is some-
times supposed, but are, on the contrary, highly in-
telligent, wide awake, and alert, prompt to give
warnings of the approach of strangers. They make
the most interesting of companions. Their natural
cleanliness, freedom from smell, and the slight care

274

TOY AND LAP DOGS

necessary to keep them in perfect condition go far
to recommend them as house pets.

The chief points to look for in the selection of
puppies at from two to four months old, are: Short,
square faces, great wrinkle, short backs, great bone.

The following is the standard description and scale
of points issued by the Pug Club:

Body. — Short and cobby, wide in chest, and well
ribbed up.

Legs. — Very strong, straight, of moderate length,
and well under.

Feet. — Neither so long as the foot of the hare
nor so round as that of the cat; well split up toes,
and the nails black.

Muzzle. — Short, blunt, square, but not upfaced.

Head. — Large, massive, round, not apple-headed,
with no indentation of the skull.

Eyes. — Dark in color, very large, bold, and prom-
inent; globular in shape, soft and solicitous in ex-
pression, very lustrous, and when excited, fiill of
fire.

Ears. — ^Thin, small, soft like black velvet. There
are two kinds — the "rose" and the "button." Pref-
erence is given to the latter.

Markings. — Clearly defined. The muzzle or
mask, ears, moles on cheeks, thumb-mark or dia-
mond on forehead; back trace should be as black as
possible.

Mask. — The mask should be black. The more
intense and well defined it is the better.

Wrinkles. — Large and deep.

27s

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Trace. — ^A black line extending from the occiput
to the tail.

Tail. — Curled tightly as possible over the hip.
The double curl is perfection.

Coat. — Fine, smooth, soft, short, and glossy;
neither hard nor woolly.

Color. — Silver fawn, apricot fawn, or black.
Each should be decided to make the contrast com-
plete between the color and the trace and mask.

Size and Condition. — ^The Pug should be multum
in parvOy but this condensation (if the word may be
used) should be shown by compactness of form, well-
knit proportions, and hardness of developed muscle.
The weight recommended as being the best is from
12 to 1 6 pounds (dog or bitch).

Symmetry. — Symmetry and general appearance,
decidedly square and cobby. A lean, leggy Pug and
a dog with short legs and long body are equally
objectionable.

Value of Points. — Symmetry, lO; size, 5; con-
dition, 5; body, lO; legs, 5; feet, 5; head, 5; muzzle,
5; ears, 5; eyes, 10; mask, 5; wrinkles, 5; tail, 5;
trace, 5; coat, 5; color, 5; general carriage, 5. Total,
100.

276

FOREIGN DOGS

SAMOYEDE AND ESKIMO DOGS

It is to the writings of Arctic explorers that one
must go to gather much that is enlightening con-
cerning the various breeds of dogs which have been
used for generations by the semi-nomadic people of
these latitudes for traversing the barren, trackless
regions of the North.

In a general way these sledge dogs of the North
may be divided into two classes — the Samoyede and
the Eskimo. The Samoyede are smaller in size, less
powerful, and not so wolfish in appearance as the
Eskimo. They have pointed muzzles, sharply erect
ears, strong, bushy tails, and short bodies. Although
they are of the Spitz type, the wolf nature is always
apparent, and one cannot doubt their white Arctic
wolf ancestry. In general appearance they are more
beautiful than the Eskimo, their thick coats being
particularly decorative. Some of them are entirely
black, with a patch of white on the chest, and many
of the white ones have black about the head.

The Eskimo, although not so attractive in appear-
ance, is larger and much more nearly allied to the
wolf. His resemblance to his wild relative is ac-
centuated by his long, snipy muzzle and his erect,
triangular ears, although it may be noted that his
Eskimo owner has a fancy for the ear carried low.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The eyes are set obliquely like those of the wolf,
and the formidable jaws are well equipped with
powerful teeth. They have strong, arched necks,
a broad chest, excellent body qualities, muscular
quarters, and splendid running gear. Their usefulness
is written into their frames, and they are capable of
accomplishing long journeys with tireless endurance.
The tail is long and bushy, and in the adult is usually
carried over the back. The coat is dense, hard, and
deep, especially on the back, where it may be from
two to four inches in length, with a woolly under-
coat to resist the penetrating snow and cold. It is
longer about the neck and thighs and shorter on the
legs and head. In color the Eskimo is the same as
the wolf — black, or a rusty black, with a light greyish
marking on chest, belly, and tail. Often a pure white
dog may be seen, as Peary's Lion, who was very
little different from the Siberian breed, and in all
there is the characteristic light spots above the eyes.
The height of the Eskimo dog averages 22 inches at
the shoulder.

Many lupine traits are observable in the Eskimo
dog. He does not habitually bark, but has a weird
wolfish howl. He is remarkable for his thievishness
and his destructiveness toward small animals. Pos-
sibly he inherits from the wolf, with whom he is so
often crossed, his facility, noticeable even in im-
ported specimens of his kind, in picking the flesh
from a fish as cleanly as if the bones had been
scraped by a surgical instrument. They will devour
almost anything from their own harness to tar rope.

278

FOREIGN DOGS

A pair of greasy trousers is a luxury, and they are
content if they get a good meal three times a week.

THE OWTCHAR, OR RUSSIAN SHEEPDOG

This interesting breed of dogs was first brought
into England in Baltic trading ships, and were
called Russian Terriers, but there is nothing of the
terrier about them either in appearance or character.
On the contrary, they are sheep and cattle dogs of
long descent, and resemble very markedly the
familiar English Bobtail Sheepdog.

The Owtchar is the largest of all European shep-
herds, many specimens standing thirty inches or
more at the shoulder. They are strongly built, and
are capable of defending the flock against wolves
and other predatory enemies. They have massive
heads, occasionally cropped ears, and the general
proportions of the bobtail. That is to say, their
length is egual to their height. Their chief char-
acteristic is a long, dense coat, tangled, towsled, and
matted like the fleece of a neglected Highland black-
face sheep. Their greater size, untidiness, and the
fact that they are often seen with a tail of natural
length, distinguish them from the old English sheep
dog.

NORWEGIAN ELK HOUND

This breed of dogs has been developed in Scan-
dinavian countries, and although referred to as
hounds, properly speaking are all-purpose dogs used
for elk and bear hunting, as well as for black cock

279

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

shooting. They are remarkable for their scenting
powers, and it is said that under favorable condi-
tions they will catch the scent of an elk or a bear
three miles away.

The breed is very old, dating back to Viking times,
and among their notable characteristics are intelli-
gence, courage, and great endurance. In appear-
ance they are rather short in stature, with an average
height of about 20 inches. The head, which is car-
ried high, is large and square, broad between the
ears; muzzle of good length; stop well defined; ey'*^
dark and full of expression ; the ears sharply pointed,
erect, and very mobile; the neck short and thick;
chest broad and deep; the back straight and not too
long. The tail is thick and heavy, and carried over
the back. As in most northern dogs, the coat is
long and deep on the body, with a dense, woolly
undercoat. About the head it is short and smooth.
In color it is all shades of grizzly brown, black and
brown, or black. Tan is rare. A white patch on the
chest is frequent, as are white feet.

DOBERMANN PINSCHER

This breed resembles the Manchester terrier, and
undoubtedly originated through the crossing of dogs
of that breed with some one of the continental
varieties. At the present time they are the most im-
portant of German terriers. In appearance they are
well built and muscular, about the weight of an
Airedale, and are lively, game, good tempered,
courageous, and devoted. Their coat is coarser than

280

FOREIGN DOGS

that of the Manchester terrier, but the distribution
of their black-and-tan markings is the same. There
is often a white patch on the chest. The tail is
docked to a length not greater than six inches. The
ears are cropped, but neither too closely nor too
pointedly for smartness. The muzzle is long, and
moderately fine; cheeks well muscled; eyes prefer-
ably dark brown, expression friendly and intelligent.
Generally they are a shapely dog, alert, sagacious,
and attractive.

THE BOXER

This breed is widely distributed in Germany,
where it shares in popularity with the Dachshund.
In appearance the Boxer resembles the Boston of our
show benches, and, like the Boston, is of mixed
ancestry, doubtless a cross of the bull and smooth-
coated terrier, with the blood of the latter predom-
inating; that is, he is a terrier of bulldog character,
with clean-cut head, wrinkled between high-set,
cropped ears, muzzle broad and blunt, stop well de-
fined, cheeks well cushioned, and the jaws often
undershot. The back is short and level, the shoulders
sloping, long and muscular, the chest deep, but not
broad, the ribs well rounded, and the belly slightly
drawn up. The legs are straight, the tail placed
high and docked, the coat short, hard, and glossy;
color, yellow or brindle, with or without a black
mask. White patches are allowed. The height for
dogs is 2i>^ inches; for bitches, 20 inches.

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THE PAPILLON

This breed is sometimes referred to as the squirrel
spaniel. It is not, however, any more of a spaniel
than is the Pekingese, and one of the countless
stories in regard to its descent is that its ancestors
were tiny, silky-haired lap dogs which the Spaniards
brought over from Mexico in the sixteenth century.
It is undoubtedly a very old breed, as cjpgs of sim-
ilar type are seen in portraits in Spanish galleries as
well as in paintings by Watteau, Fragonard, and
Boucher. The name is evidently derived from its
ears, which stand erect like the wings of the butterfly.
There is another variety with drop ears. The fact
that the tail is long and bushy and carried over the
back like a squirrel is the reason that the name
Squirrel Spaniel is sometimes applied to them.

The Papillon is a lively little dog, with an abun-
dant coat of long, silky hair. The head is small, the
skull slightly domed, the muzzle rather snipy.
About the face and on the front of the legs the coat
is short; the eyes are dark, round, set somewhat low;
the expression is alert and intelligent; the back is
straight and rather short, but not so cobby as that
of the Blenheim or the toy Pomeranian. The legs
are short, straight, and rather fine. The average
height is about nine inches, and in weight from five
to eight pounds. In color they are ruby, red ma-
hogany, reddish chestnut, dark yellow, or white
with these patches.

282

FOREIGN DOGS

THE CHIHUAHUA

The Chihuahuas are but little known outside of
this country, as they are natives of Chihuahua, one
of the largest States of Mexico, bordering on the
State of Texas. They are one of the most diminutive
of breeds, and by many are believed to have been
in the early days wild, and to have inhabited the
dense forest land of Northern Mexico, some claim-
ing that they were as expert as a squirrel in climbing
trees, and were also adepts at burrowing. They
are remarkably game little dogs, very exclusive
in their affections, and perhaps the smallest of
the canine family. Some very good specimens
may be so small as to stand with all-fours in the
palm of one's hand, and not weigh more than
twenty-three ounces, while other specimens turn the
scales at four pounds. Their legs are very slender
and their toenails very long and strong. In the
wild specimens this was very serviceable to them in
making their homes, as they lived in holes in the
ground. Apart from their size, the most striking
peculiarity and feature is the head, which is round,
and from which projects a very short and pointed
nose and large, standing ears, and also a peculiar
skull formation, found only in this race. In color
they vary somewhat in shade, reddish black and
fawn; hair short, fine, and thick. The name is pro-
nounced Chi-wa-wa.

283

DISEASES OF DOGS

DIAGNOSIS

The books devoted to the diseases of dogs are
usually so technical that the amateur who refers to
them for guidance finds only a confusing array of
diseases, symptoms, and complications. It is well
to know that most of the diseases enumerated are
of such rare occurrence that it will not be necessary
to consider them; and further, that all the symptoms
in connection with certain diseases are seldom present
in the patient. The greatest mortality among dogs
occurs during puppyhood or early youth, and is
the result of worms and distemper; among older
dogs indigestion is the chief ailment.

When called upon to minister to a sick dog do not
be in a hurry about administering medicine. First
be sure you know what ails the patient, and care-
fully consider the history of the case and the liability
to certain diseases at certain ages or under certain
conditions, and then begin looking for symptoms
that will confirm or refute your diagnosis.

Do not fail to ask yourself the question, "Is the
patient suffering from worms?" If a young dog,
from two months to a year old, which has never
been treated for worms, the fact that all dogs have
worms will strengthen the opinion that it has them;
and if the patient has the symptoms, treat for them.
If, on the contrary, the dog has none of the symp-

284

DISEASES OF DOGS

toms, or has been treated for worms, we must look
for some other disease.

If the patient is from four months to a year old,
and is cutting his teeth, or has been at a dog show
or associated with dogs which have, and acts listless
and out of sorts a few days afterward, your suspi-
cions should be directed toward distemper, if it has
never had the disease; and by studying the symp-
toms you can arrive at a positive opinion and treat
accordingly.

If your patient is an aged dog and has had dis-
temper, and for no accountable cause is slowly
going oiF in flesh and refuses to fatten, no matter
how much he eats, and if his breath is foul, his
bowels are irregular, and he seems all out of sorts
and run down, indigestion should be suspected, due
either to poor food, a weakness of the stomach's
digestive glands, or irritation set up by worms.

The condition of a sick dog's bowels should
always be considered. Constipation and diarrhea
are common ailments that are responsible for much
ill health. Besides the character and frequency of
passages, both diseases are accompanied by strain-
ing and in some cases colicky pains.

When a dog comes out of the kennel in the morn-
ing stiflF, sore, and barely able to move, is all humped
up, and the history of the case shows that he was
given either a hard run the day before, jumped into
a pool while heated, became chilled by a cold rain,
or slept in a draught or on a bed of wet straw,
rheumatism should be suspected.
» 285

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

When the animal is found sitting on his haunches^
his forelegs braced apart so as to expand the chesty
his breathing accelerated, and the membranes of the
eye dark and congested, and the history of the case
is the same as that last given, pneumonia is in-
dicated.

If pressure upon the walls between the ribs causes
him to flinch and groan, the pleura or membrane
surrounding the lungs is affected, and we have
pleurisy.

If the small veins of the eye show a yellowish
tinge, it is an indication of a disordered liver, and
the treatment for jaundice should be administered.

If a dog has been in good health and is suddenly
taken sick, exhibiting violent symptoms of pain and
great distress, with attempts to vomit or a rigidity
of the muscles, poison should be suspected, par-
ticularly if he has been allowed to run about freely,
or other dogs in the neighborhood have been sim-
ilarly affected.

CARE, DIET, NURSING

Absolute cleanliness, an unfailing supply of fresh
air, a suitable temperature, plenty of fresh water,
general comfort, and last, but not least, companion-
ship, are needed by a sick dog. Locking a dog in a
darkened room or stall, or an unaccustomed change,
will work havoc with a sick dog. He wants to see
his master, relies upon his companionship, and turns
to him as if to a god, with a sublime confidence in
his master's ability to help him in his difficulty. A

286

DISEASES OF DOGS

word of approbation is often worth more than drugs,
and he will frequently eat and take nourishment
simply to please his master.

Diet. — If the dog is down with some febrile dis-
order that is rapidly weakening him, it is important
that he take some nourishment, and necessarily it
must be of the lightest and most sustaining char-
acter. Medical practitioners and trained nurses
have brought the dietary of the sick-room to a per-
fection that the canine practitioner can study with
good results. There are foods prepared by Spratt's
patent for this purpose that are very useful. Milk,
mutton broth, gelatine, and raw eggs are valuable
foods. Boiled rice is easy of digestion. Raw beef
or mutton, minced or chopped fine, fed a few tea-
spoonfuls at a time, will act in many cases as a tonic
to an exhausted stomach, and should be resorted to,
as there is always danger of a disordered stomach
rebelling against long-continued liquid food. A tea-
spoonful otbrandy or port wine will frequently cause
the stomach to retain food that would otherwise be
rejected. It is best given in the form of an eggnog
and fed a few teaspoonfuls at a time.

A dog will eat small quantities of food offered
from his master's hand which he will refuse from a
dish. Do not allow food to remain before him after
he has declined to eat. Remove it at once and offer
it at some future time.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

DISTEMPER

Thb most dreaded of all diseases of the dog gen-
erally develops in the first year of life at a period
approaching maturity, or is associated with the cut-
ting of the permanent teeth. The disease has been
compared to typhoid fever in man, but really re-
sembles measles, as both are infectious infantile dis-
orders transmitted through similar channels, and
one attack successfully overcome renders immimity
from a second. For a great many years distemper
was thought to be the result of kenneling in damp,
cold, or poorly ventilated buildings, defective drain-
age, exposure, general neglect, improper or putres-
cent food, and other anti-hygienic conditions. This
is a mistake, as distemper, like many other diseases,
is due to a germ, and unless the germ is present dis-
temper never exists. The unhygienic conditions
previously mentioned simply favor its propagation
and dissemination, as dogs living in an unhealthy
atmosphere have low powers of resistance.

There are innumerable channels through which a
dog may be infected with distemper. The germ is of
remarkable vitality, and is conveyed through the air
or on a person's clothes, or a dog which has already
had the disease can convey the germ to a well dog.
The use of kennel, feeding dishes, or shipping crates
that have been used previously by an affected
animal is a common mode of inoculation. Dog
shows are active mediums for the spread of the dis-
ease, and when portable benching is used it is highly

288

DISEASES OF DOGS

important that it should be thoroughly cleansed
and disinfected.

Symptoms. — Distemper attacks dogs in different
ways, but the most familiar form is that in which
the membranes of the eyes and nasal passages are
affected, the principal symptom being a catarrhal
discharge. Any attack of this kind is usually pre-
ceded by listlessness and lack of appetite. The
patient avoids the light and courts solitude. All the
symptoms of a common cold then manifest them-
selves, as sneezing and a dry, husky cough. Com-
plications, however, frequently develop early in the
disease and result in the death of the animal. The
symptoms mentioned are those of the catarrhal
form, and a great many people have an idea that
this is the only form in which distemper appears,
and that a dog does not have the disease unless there
is a discharge from the nose. This is a mistake, for
in some cases the virus attacks the intestines alone,
and in others the liver or the bronchial tubes. The
action of the virus that is least understood, and in
which the symptoms are most commonly ascribed
to some other cause, is when it is concentrated upon
the brain and nervous system. In this form the
animal dies from collapse or develops epileptic
spasms and convulsions with other symptoms that
are ascribed to worms, and accordingly the puppy
is doped without avail, for in these cases death
ensues in a few hours or the patient lingers along for
a week, and a post-mortem reveals neither worms
nor any other exciting cause, and from the absence

289

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

of all catarrhal symptoms distemper is not suspected.
In the treatment of distemper most breeders and
owners make the mistake of neglecting the pre-
monitory symptoms and do not begin to treat or
properly care for the patient until the disease is fully
developed. As previously stated, the disease de-
velops slowly. First, the dog is off his feed, then the
cough develops; and, presuming that the dog is
otherwise well and the cough will pass off in a day
or two, the patient is allowed usually to occupy his
usual quarters, sleep out of doors and exercise in
all kinds of weather, or dismissed from the mind
until the eyes show a suspicious stickiness or the
nose discharges a purulent mucus. The owner
always should be on the lookout for distemper, and
when a dog, at the distemper age, which has never
had the disease presents a suspicious symptom,
should lose no time in placing him in good, warm,
dry, comfortable quarters, and keeping him there
until he has entirely recovered. The prime factor
in treating this disease is good care and nursing.
The patient's bedding must be changed frequently,
discharges from the nose and eyes carefuUy sponged
away, and the appetite catered to, and highly nutri-
tious and easily digested foods given. (See chapter
on nursing.) If there are any symptoms of worms,
treat for them with vermifuges.

Treatment. — ^The specific germ of this disease has
never been isolated, therefore a true culture of the
germ has never been made. The best-known rem-
edy is Dent's Distemperine, the result of experi-

290

DISEASES OF DOGS

ments made by veterinarians connected with the
United States Department of Agriculture, and in a
public test, showing that ninety per cent of the cases
in which it was used recovered.

Vomiting. — ^A number of complications are liable
to develop with or follow a case of distemper.
Among them are vomiting, which can be prevented
by carefully selecting those foods that the stomach
digests most easily; but if the stomach refuses to
retain even the most digestible of these, give from
two to four drops of Schell's strength of hydrocyanic
acid, combined with from two to eight grains of
pepsin and ten to forty grains of bismuth.

Diarrhea. — Diarrhea must not be checked unless
it is very severe and the discharges are tinged with
blood. In such cases give a gruel made of toasted
wheat flour and milk. The tannate or sub-gallate of
bismuth is useful in these cases in doses of from ten
to forty grains, and one dose may give satisfactory
results; if it does not, from five to ten grains of chalk
with from five to twenty grains of ether or laudanum
should be administered in a little milk or soup.

Fits. — Epileptic fits and derangement of the
nervous system are difficult to treat during the
course of the disease. If they are caused by cutting
teeth, lance the gums; if due to worms, treat for
them before the system becomes too debilitated to
stand the drugs necessary to remove them. If,
however, the convulsions are severe, frequent, and
exhausting, they can be relieved by giving bromide
of potash in doses of from five to twenty grains four

291

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

or five times a day, either in a capsule or watery
solution. If the excitement is extreme the bromide
can be combined with from three to ten grains of
chloral. The latter drug should be mixed with
mucilage to prevent its irritating the throat.

In conclusion, the owner should be cautioned
again against exposing the dog to the cold during
the course of the disease or convalescence. In some
cases after a few days' treatment a marked improve-
ment will be observed in the patient's condition,
and the caretaker, correspondingly elated and en-
couraged by a spring-like day, particularly if the
weather has been damp and stormy, will admit the
puppy to the kennel yard for a breath of fresh air.
The puppy, after blinking in the sun and stretching,
often will select some damp spot on which the sun
strikes and curl up for a nap. A few moments' ex-
posure under these conditions are sufficient to induce
serious conditions, and the next morning all the
symptoms are present, or the labored breathing in-
dicates a fatal congestion of the lungs.

INTESTINAL PARASITES

Until a very recent period worms were thought
to be of a spontaneous origin, brought about by the
influence of heat upon decaying vegetable matter,
and it was, and still is, freely asserted that puppies
are born with worms inherited from the mother
while still in utero. This is a mistake, as worms
spring from individual eggs, and have a complete
life history of their own.

292

DISEASES OF DOGS

Round Worms. — ^The principal species are round
worms and tape worms. The first-named commonly
infest puppies, and consequently are most dreaded
by breeders. In shape and size they resemble
common angle worms, but in color are lighter, being
almost white or only a pale pink. In adult dogs
these worms, when full grown, are from three to
seven inches long; in puppies they are about half
that length and as thick as common white string.
Round worms live in the small intestines, sometimes
coiled in such masses as to obstruct the passage^
and occasionally they wander into the stomach or
are passed by the bowels.

It is easy to understand that when one dog in a
kennel is infected with worms millions of eggs will
be passed with the feces. These are scattered all
over the floors, bedding, feeding and drinking pans.
They get on the dog's coat, are licked off and swal-
lowed and in numbers of ways gain entrance to the
digestive tracts of other dogs, where they soon hatch
out and in ten days are fully developed. This rapid
development accounts for the popular belief that
puppies are born with worms, for breeders who have
held post-mortems on puppies scarcely ten days old
have found in their stomachs fully developed round
worms could account for their presence in no other
way. They overlooked the fact that the prospective
mother, confined in a kennel infested with worms,
would get these eggs attached to her coat, belly,
and breasts, and the young, as soon as born, would

293

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

take these eggs into their stomachs with the first
mouthful of milk.

Symptoms, — Worms are responsible for so much
sickness and so many symptoms that it is prac-
tically impossible to mention all of them; but their
presence can safely be suspected in all dogs which
have not been recently treated for them, as well as
in cases where the patient is run down, unthrifty,
and out of sorts.

Other symptoms are: a hot, dry nose; weak,
watery eyes; pale lips and gums; foul breath; mean
hacking cough, and a red, scurfy, pimply or irritated
condition of the skin, and harsh, dry, staring coat
that is constantly being shed. Wormy dogs some-
times have a depraved appetite, and will eat dirt
and rubbish. Some days they are ravenously
hungry, the next day they will not eat at all; their
sleep is disturbed by dreams and intestinal rumbling;
the urine is high colored and frequently passed;
bowels irregular; stomach easily unsettled; watery
mucus is frequently vomited, and the mouth is hot,
sticky, and full of ropy saliva. Puppies which are
full of worms bloat easily and are pot-bellied. After
feeding their stomachs distend disproportionately to
the amount of food consumed. Their bodies are
also subject to scaly eruptions and their bowels to
colicky pains; they do not grow as rapidly as healthy
puppies should, and instead of playing with each
other they curl up and sleep hour after hour; they
get thinner, weaker, and more lifeless from day to
day, and if they do not waste away or die in fits

294

DISEASES OF DOGS

and convulsions with frothing at the mouth and
champing of the jaws, grow up coarse-jointed,
rickety, and misshapen. Puppies with worms are
also liable to paralysis of their rear limbs, and on
removal of the worms the puppies regain control of
the affected parts.

Prevention. — The prevention of worms is a subject
of importance to every breeder. There should be a
continuous fight kept up against fleas and dirt.
There is nothing better than coarse soap, plenty of
hot water and a scrubbing brush; dash buckets of
boiling water over the floors and walls and white-
wash the kennels frequently. Change the bedding
twice a week and burn all old straw, litter, and
dirt.

Treat your puppies at two, four, and six months
old for worms. Treat all brood bitches for worms,
and give them a bath ten days before whelping, so
as to cleanse their coats of any eggs that may be
attached to breasts or coats. The mixing of a tea-
spoonful of powdered charcoal with a dog's food
once a day will tend to keep the intestines clear of
the mucus where the eggs find a most hospitable
home.

Treatment. — Many different drugs are recom-
mended for the expulsion of worms, and some of
the prescriptions handed down by the old school of
horse doctors and dog men are more to be dreaded
than the worms, as it is an unfortunate fact that
about as many dogs are killed by medicine as by
worms. The drugs in common use for worm cures

295

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

are areca-nut, santonine, calomel, and turpentine.
They are all very powerful, and should be com-
pounded with care. As an illustration, areca-nut is
an irritant only a little less severe than powdered
glass. Santonine is a poison that frequently causes
fits and convulsions. Calomel usually acts on the
liver and not on the worms, while turpentine severely
irritates the kidneys. The safest and most effectual
remedy for round worms is Dent's Vermifuge. It can
be obtained from druggists in either liquid or capsule
form, and will be found more economical and re-
liable than anything the druggist can prepare. The
capsules are of soft, elastic gelatine, the dose is ac-
curately regulated, and they are easily administered.
Tapeworms. — ^As their name indicates, tape-
worms are made up of flat joints or sections half an
inch or less in length that resemble pieces of white
tape. These sections will sometimes be found
scattered about the kennel in the feces or hanging
from the anus of an affected dog. There are a num-
ber of species of tapeworms. The head of the tape-
worm, which is the smallest part and is scarcelv
larger than a thread, has a blind or sucker mouth
by which it attaches itself to the intestines and
through which it draws its nourishment. The tape-
worm does not lay eggs, as the round worm does,
but reproduces itself by the segments that form the
body. These segments are smallest at the head, and
as they recede gradually increase in size and are re-
placed by new segments until finally they become
full grown or ripe. When this stage is reached they

296

DISEASES OF DOGS

detach themselves from the body of the worm and
are passed in the feces.

Symptoms. — ^The indications of tapeworms are in
some cases similar to those of round worms, but
often they are indefinite. Their presence, however,
may be suspected in adult dogs with voracious ap-
petites which remain unthrifty and out of sorts, or
in dogs affected with chorea, partial paralysis, or
nervous affections, and those which are generally
out of sorts. A dog presenting these symptoms
which has been treated for round worms without
results or been given tonics without improvement
in his condition, should be treated for tapeworms.
One of the best remedies for both round and tape-
worms — which makes it very valuable for puppies —
is an emulsion of pumpkin seed. This is the active
principle of Dent's Vermifuge. We have found it
very effective in both old and young dogs, and for
round worms as well as tapeworms. We do not wish
our readers to infer that the others are not as good,
but what we wish to say is that for such diseases as
worms and distemper the specially prepared rem-
edies are more reliable than ordinary prescriptions.

SKIN DISEASES

This disease, like itch in man, is due to the pres-
ence of a small insect which burrows or tunnels
through the skin, and in these canals the female
deposits her eggs, which hatch out in about two
weeks. The young then continue the burrowing
operations of their parents, occasioning the most in-

297

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

tolerable itching. Mange is a local affection, but
the uneasiness and loss of sleep caused the animal
by the continued scratching and biting in its efforts
to allay the itching have a very debilitating effect
upon the system, and if neglected will soon trans-
form the healthy, sleek-coated pet into one of the
most loathsome and pitiful of objects. The disease
generally makes its appearance first at the elbows,
under the forelegs, on the chest, forehead, base of
the ears or root of the tail, and then spreads all over
the body.

Causes. — In dogs this affection, the commonest
of direct skin diseases, is the result of contact with
a dog or other animal similarly affected, or is con-
tracted by occupying the yard, kennel, or shipping
crate of an animal so affected.

In humans the skin cocci which causes dandruff
and baldness are transmitted usually through hats,
hat racks, and the use of public brushes and combs
in hotels and barber shops.

Treatment. — In the treatment of mange and other
skin diseases, absolute cleanliness must be insisted
upon. Upon a dog showing signs of having this
affection it should be immediately removed from its
quarters, the bedding burned, and the entire kennel
washed and disinfected. The dog's entire body
should then be washed in lukewarm water with a
good dog soap to soften and break up scabs and
scales. A mange lotion should then be applied to
all affected parts and the thoroughness with which
the medicinal agents are applied is fully as important

298

DISEASES OF DOGS

as the remedy which is used, for there are many lo-
tions that will cure this disease, providing they are
properly used. Among them are sulphur and lard
ointment, sulphur and lime solution, crude oil, crude
oil and sulphur, coal tar, glycerine, cocoanut oil, as
well as the regular mange cures, such as Dent's
Lotion, Ashmont's, Eberhardt's, and others. Re-
peat the application every day for four or five days,
then wash clean with lukewarm water. Repeat the
application for another week or ten days, and again
wash, and if the skin is not in a healthy condition
repeat the application. Blood purifying pills should
also be given three times a day, so as to thoroughly
cleanse the system.

For parasitic conditions of the human scalp
Dent's Mange Lotion is used by hair dressers and
barbers in cases that will not yield to ordinary
treatment. Only a small quantity should be used
at a time, but it is highly important that it be
rubbed thoroughly into the scalp.

This mange lotion destroys the parasites and skin
cocci that cause dandruff and premature baldness,
and in connection with a good dog soap, is a treat-
ment for diseases of the human scalp that no one
need hesitate about trying or recommending to their
friends.

Eczema. — Similar in appearance to mange, but
different in its origin, this disease is due to an im-
pure condition of the system, and not to a burrowing
parasite.

Causes. — Lack of exercise; dirty, damp kennels;

299

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

too heating a diet; fleas, lice, and local irritation;
indigestion and neglect.

Symptoms. — ^The belly, elbows, inside of thighs,
and back of the forelegs are the parts first affected;
the hair sacs or follicles are principally the seat of
the disease. These become inflamed, and when the
animal affected is white the hair at the roots has a
reddish, rusty look.

If prompt means are not taken to check the dis-
ease the inflammation runs on rapidly, the enrire
skin and subcutaneous tissues are involved, and the
hair drops out from the affected follicles; purulent
matter now exudes and pustules form that break
open, and the matter from them runs together and
forms scabs that crack open and bleed, and the
animal becomes an exceedingly pitiful and loath-
some object, and emits a very disagreeable odor.

This disease is not so contagious as mange, but
is more difficult to cure.

Treatment. — ^To insure a radical cure of this dis-
ease, internal treatment is of fully as much con-
sequence as external applications, and in obstinate
cases both must be persevered in for some time. To
cleanse the system use a good blood purifying pill,
and to the affected parts apply one of the lotions or
try the following prescription:

Wright's solution of coal tar, i ounce.

Goulard's extract of lard, i drachm.

Glycerine boracis, i ounce.

Distilled water to make 8 ounces.

Directions: Bathe parts frequently.

300

DISEASES OF DOGS

Another useful ointment for eczema is:
Resorcin, i scruple.
Creolin, 20 minims.
Almond oil, i drachm.
Lanolin, i ounce.
Apply night and morning to affected parts.
Warts. — The condition of the system that gives
rise to warts is not well understood, and they appear
upon the healthiest dogs quite as readily as upon
those which are debilitated or unthrifty. The lips,
gums, tongue, and entire mucous membrane of the
mouth are frequently affected. Their appearance is
objectionable, and it is advisable to remove them.
A few scattering warts can be clipped off with a
pair of sharp curved surgeon's scissors and the stumps
touched with nitrate of silver to check the bleeding.
Touching with a hot iron is one of the safest and
surest methods of removing warts, and the pain
occasioned by this operation is not severe.

When there are a large number of warts and the
mucous membrane is covered with them, or they
appear in large bunches, they are not so easily dis-
posed of. Too many of them must not be removed
at any one time, no matter by what means, or severe
inflammation will be set up that may be extremely
difficult to control. Therefore in these cases clip
off only a few at a time and then sponge the mouth
with a solution of chlorate of potash, a teaspoonful
to a glass of water.

Large warts may be removed by ligating them
with a silk cord or catgut close to the skin.
» 301

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

The perverted state of the skin which gives rise
to warts can generally be corrected by using a blood-
purifying pill, and it is wise to give all warty
dogs a course of treatment with them, so that there
will not be a recurrence of the excrescences.

STOMACH AND BOWELS

Dogs have powerful organs of digestion, but the
heavy task they put upon them in the way of gorg-
ing upon all kinds of food, the recklessness they
show in swallowing stones, coal, dirt, and bones,
and the carelessness of owners in feeding frequently
result in a loss of tone and power of the dog's stomach,
and render it unable to perform its important
function in the process of digestion, and the food
eaten, instead of being made fit for the nourishment
of the body, acts as a heavy load and irritant to the
stomach, or produces disorders and diseases of the
bowels, such as indigestion, diarrhea, and con-
stipation.

Indigestion. — This is the commonest of all canine
diseases and the greatest cause of unthriftiness and
ill health. The appetite is irregular, wholesome food
is refused or eaten mincingly and slobbered about,
and a preference is shown for garbage and indi-
gestible matter. There is generally considerable
thirst, and the food taken into the stomach is fre-
quently vomited in a more or less altered condition
and mixed with slime and mucus. If it remains in
the stomach it ferments and generates gas, which
distends the abdomen and causes pain and uneasi-

302

DISEASES OF DOGS

ness. The breath is foul and offensive, the gums
inflamed, the tongue coated, and the bowels de-
ranged. The animal is dull, listless, and out of sorts.

Treatment, — Carefully regulating the diet and at-
tention to sanitary conditions will effect a cure in
ordinary attacks. If there is much pain and systemic
disturbance, remedies must be administered. If the
stomach is full and there is gaseous distention,
vomiting can be induced by giving two teaspoon fuls
of wine of ipecac as a first dose and a teaspoonful
every ten minutes thereafter until the stomach is
emptied. On the contrary, if severe vomiting exists,
ten or fifteen grains of the subnitrate of bismuth
may be given to settle the stomach. If thete is a
state of constipation or diarrhea the remedies that
are recommended for such conditions should be
administered. The patient should be fed an easily
digested diet, such as raw lean beef, chopped fine,
gelatine, meat soups, and stale whole-wheat bread,
boiled rice, and fresh milk.

In this disease, as in worms and distemper,
Dent*s Condition Pills will be found efficacious, as
they are made from drugs especially selected for
dogs, and assist in the digestion of foods as well as
tone up the organs of digestion. For the benefit of
owners, however, who do not have them on hand
we give two useful prescriptions:

Bicarbonate of soda, 2 drachms.
Tr. rhubarb, 3 drachms.
Tr. Gentian, 4 drachms.
Tr. nux vomica, i drachm.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Liq. bismuth, i ounce.
Water, 6 ounces.

Dose, a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful after
feeding.

For those who prefer powders, take:

Ingluvin, >^ to 2 scruples.

Carbonate of bismuth, ^ to 2 drachms.

Powdered nux vomica, i to 3 grains.

Mix and divide into 12 powders, and give
one three times a day after feeding.

Constipation. — ^This aihnent is common to all
dogs, and is due generally either to neglect or igno-
rance upon the part of the owner. Regular exercise
and discrimination in feeding will keep most dogs'
bowels in good condition and thereby determine the
condition of the animal; for biliousness, disorders of
the liver and kidneys, and the attendant conditions
of foul breath, loss of appetite, languor, rough coat,
and general unthriftiness are frequently due to the
fact that there has been absorbed into the system
certain poisonous products thrown off by the refuse
matter that has for several days been lodged in the
large intestine.

Causes. — ^The fecal matter in the intestines be-
comes hard, dry, and lumpy unless there is an un-
failing supply of water for drinking purposes. Con-
finement in restricted quarters or chaining brings
about a state of the nervous system that manifests
itself by costiveness. If proper opportunity is not

304

DISEASES OF DOGS

given dogs to relieve themselves, fecal matter ac-
cumulates in the lower bowels and brings about
paralysis of that part. A concentrated diet, like
one of all meat, has not sufficient residue to properly
stimulate the bowels. Wheat flour is constipating.
Graham flour, oat and corn meal are not, but on
account of the excessive residue will, if continued
too long, overtax the bowels. Vegetables, such as
cabbage, greens, and onions, have a laxative action
on the bowels on account of certain medicinal ele-
ments, as well as their large amount of water.

Symptoms. — Continued straining and the passage
of hard, dry, lumpy matter; congested eyes; loss of
appetite; coated tongue; oflFensive breath, and a list-
less, out-of-sorts appearance. As the feces get
pressed into the lower bowels in a compact mass,
colicky pains occur and the belly becomes hard and
distended.

Treatment. — ^The first thing to do is to unload the
bowels, not by strong purgatives that will only
complicate matters, but by an injection either of
soapsuds or a teaspoonful of glycerine. If the»owner
does not care to use one of the regular remedies the
following pills are useful. They should be made by
a druggist:

Ext. belladonna, 3 to 12 grains.
Powd. rhubarb, 6 to 30 grains.
Powd. nux vomica, i to 6 grains.

The smaller quantities for small and the larger
for the large breeds of dogs. The above should be

305

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

carefully mixed and divided into 12 pills, one to be
given twice a day after food.

In all cases the cure must be looked for through
a change in the diet and system of management.
See that your dog's supply of fresh water is unfail-
ing and that he is exercised daily. If he has been fed
largely on meat and wheat bread, feed with the
meat a quantity of freshly chopped cabbage, spinach,
dandelions, or beet tops. Substitute oatmeal, corn-
meal, or graham bread for the wheat flour, or, better
still, feed Spratt's Dog Cakes, as they are an ad-
mirably balanced ration that keep the bowels in a
healthy condition. By a variation of these different
foods and a course of treatment with Dent's Condi-
tion Pills, the system can be toned up and habits
will become regular and the general health and ap-
pearance improved.

Diarrhea. — ^This disease, of common occurrence
among young puppies and old overfed dogs, refers
to abnormal changes in the character and frequency
of the passages of the bowels. In this disorder the
membranes of the bowels are not diseased, but
simply pass off matter that irritates them. When the
bowels themselves become inflamed and ulcerated
the disorder is known as dysentery, and it is obvious
that a simple attack of diarrhea, if not properly
attended to, is liable to run into the much more
serious case of dysentery.

Causes. — Errors in diet and indigestion are the
common causes. The eating of decayed and irritat-
ing food, often brought about by leaving stale food

306

DISEASES OF DOGS

over from one meal to another, foul water, and in-
juries caused by blows or kicks, will bring on this
disorder. The retained excretions of constipation
also throw off poisons that will unduly stimulate the
bowels, A severe chilling and cold that forces the
blood to the intestines will also set up diarrhea.
Worms are a common cause, and among puppies
changes in the milk of the nursing mother or the
abrupt change to cow's milk are frequent causes.
Diarrhea is also brought on by the injudicious use
of salts and calomel.

Symptoms, — These are of course evident, and in-
dicate the severity of the attack by their character
and frequency. In an acute attack vomiting of
offensive matter accompanies the loose, watery dis-
charge from the bowels. Blood is sometimes present
as a result of piles or a congestion of the membranes,
as well as small amounts of mucus. In a simple
attack of diarrhea the general health suffers but
little, but if not checked the weakness becomes
excessive, and among puppies the mortality is high.

Treatment. — ^As the disease is simply nature's ef-
fort to throw off irritating matter, it should be assisted
by giving a dose of castor oil to empty the intes-
tines. The diet should be attended to. Feed milk,
three parts, mixed with lime water, one part, and a
milk porridge made by browning wheat flour and
then mixing it with milk. Spratt's special foods are
very useful in these cases. A good diarrhea mixture
in severe cases is:

307

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Laudanum^ i drachm.
Tr. rhubarb, 4 drachms.
Peppermint, water to make 4 ounces.

Dose, a teaspoonful to two tablespoonfuls
three times a day.

But generally all that will be necessary to do is
to attend to the diet as previously described. Where
worms are the cause, and their presence is always to
be suspected, particularly if the nature of the dis-
charge is variable, sometimes lumpy and covered
by mucous froth and small air bubbles, their expul-
sion must be accomplished by suitable vermifuges.

Diarrhea in young puppies can generally be cured
by changing the diet. Feed less milk, and for it
substitute beef tea or wheat bread soaked in blood
gravy. If there is much pain, give five or ten drops
of paregoric. Precipitated chalk in doses of one-
fourth teaspoonful for small puppies and one-half
teaspoonful for puppies of two months and over, is
a harmless and useful remedy in these cases, and
the dose may be repeated every two or three hours.

EYE, EAR, AND THROAT

Some affections of the eye arise from debility,
others are due to injuries. Ingrowing lashes or the
presence of irritating bodies are also common
causes.

Eye: Symptoms. — Increased sensitiveness to the
light; dimness of the eyeball; an excessive flow of
tears from the eyes, running down over the cheeks;

308

DISEASES OF DOGS

from the corner of the eye a discharge which thickens
and becomes purulent, gluing together the swollen
lids. Sometimes at the roots of the hair at the edge
of the lids there appear small pustules. These break
and discharge matter that dries into crusts, matting
the hair, gluing the lids together, and destroying
the lashes.

Treatment. — Do not expose the animal unneces-
sarily to the light; bathe the eye every hour with
warm water to soften the discharge, and use a small
wedge-shaped piece of sponge to remove accumula-
tions of matter. Restrict the diet, give Dent's purify-
ing pills three times a day, and apply several times
a day a saturated solution of boracic acid. Another
useful lotion is: Zinc sulph., 15 grains; morph. sulph.,
4 grains. Water to make 4 ounces. It snould also
be dropped between the lids.

Canker of the Ear. — ^The ear is the most com-
plicated structure in the body and subject to 'a
variety of disorders, the largest number of which
are generally considered under one head of canker —
a most painful disease that if neglected will result
in deafness.

Water dogs are most frequently affected, not only
by water gaining entrance to the ear, but by the
shocks to the system following the exposure they
undergo, bringing on an unsettled condition of the
digestive system, skin, and blood.

Thorns, injuries, pulling the dog's ears, accumu-
lation of wax and foreign substances entering the
ear are also responsible to a degree for these ail-

309

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

ments. Attention to the dog's general health and
condition, judicious selection of food, and the treat-
ment of all intestinal disorders, with attention to all
those details that will keep the blood pure and the
stomach healthy, will be found the real secret for
the prevention as well as cure of affections of the ear.

There is also a condition of the ear confounded
with canker in which the edges of the ear become hot,
dry, and scaly, and the roots of the hair are covered
with a whitish scurf. The dog is continually shaking
bis head or scratching at his ears to relieve the irrita-
tion. These cases should be treated for what they
are; that is, a form of eczema, and the scurf is the
eggs of lice. The ears should be washed and soaked
in warm water until all scurf and scales are removed,
then carefully dried and mange lotion applied to the
affected parts. The ointment recommended for
eczema is also useful in these cases.

In another class of cases, as a result of injuries
or inflammation, the entire flap of the ear becomes
greatly swollen, very feverish and tender, and a
quantity of fluid forms between the cartilage and the
skin of the ear. These cases are difficult to treat.
The swellings are lanced easily and the fluid drawn
off, but the ear fills up again in the course of a few
hours. The best treatment is to insert on the inside
of the flap a seton of tape from above downward,
which will keep the wound open until the discharge
ceases, when it can be withdrawn and the openings
treated by dusting iodoform over them twice a day.

When the membrane lining the external passage

310

DISEASES OF DOGS

of the ear is inflamed and otherwise affected we
have external canker of the ear. At first there is a
redness and slight swelling, which is seldom noticed,
or no importance is attached to it. The dog will
shake his head and show uneasiness. This is fol-
lowed by ulceration and suppuration; a black,
offensive discharge develops which may extend both
ways. Sometimes it runs back into the head and
involves the ear drum and the small bones of the
ear, producing internal canker; but more often it
runs outward and involves the outer passages, and
we have external canker. The ear will be found red
and swollen, the exudation dries and forms scabs,
pus is generally present, and there are numbers of
bright red spots on the inside of the flaps and along
the ear passage. The dog holds his head on one side
and shakes it violently as though to get something
out of it, and will slide along the floor on his ear or
dig at it with his paw. The flaps of the ear become
bruised and ulcerated, and the tips become cracked
or split and are very sore.

Treatment. — ^The general health should be at-
tended to first. If the disease is chronic, but the
animal^s digestion is good, cod-liver oil emulsion
four times a day is useful. If the system is deranged
and the blood is out of order — and in most cases it
is — it is highly important that the system be thor-
oughly cleansed and the blood cooled and purified
by giving blood-purifying pills three times a day.
If the dog is troubled with worms, take measures
to secure their expulsion.

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

Cleanliness of the parts is, of course, important,
but too much washing and neglecting to dry the ear
properly will retard healing. The ear should be
washed carefully with lukewarm water and dog
soap, and, if necessary, use a small syringe to soften
and remove all hardened wax. After washing, dry
the ear carefully and do not wash again until it is
necessary to do so from an accumulatipn of wax or
purulent discharges. It must be borne in mind that
too much washing at this stage is very harmful.
The ear should be carefully dried with soft cotton
and a canker lotion injected into the ear passage.
Dent's canker lotion is very good. The best of the
lead and zinc lotions commonly used for this pur-
pose is:

Oxide of zinc ointment, 2 drachms.
Resorcin, 10 grains.
Almond oil, i ounce.

In treating canker of the ear, have an assistant
take the dog between his knees and turn the head
to one side, so that the canker lotion can be care-
fully and slowly injected into the ear.

Coughs. — In themselves, coughs, no matter of
what character, are not a disease, but simply an
evidence of some other derangement of the system.
To decide what particular disease is indicated by
the cough is in some cases very difficult, for in many
cases annoying coughs are the only symptoms that
animals otherwise in the best of health present. It
is quite important that all coughs be given atten-

312

DISEASES OF DOGS

tion, for the first symptom of many dangerous dis-
eases is a simple cough that^ if treated in time, might
prevent a serious illness.

Causes. — Most coughs are associated with some
derangement of the respiratory organs and air
passages. They may be produced, however, by a
small bone or other hard substance sticking in the
throat. Worms are responsible for some coughs
through reflex actions, as well as by inducing accu-
mulations of mucus.

Symptoms. — Coughs vary in character, as do the
diseases of which, in many cases, they are the most
prominent symptom. The cough of distemper has
a peculiar husky, hollow sound. It loosens as the
secretions of mucus become abundant and the huski-
ness disappears. It is sometimes accompanied by
snifl9ing, retching, and vomiting. In the case of
common colds the cough is slight and generally
soft and moist. In laryngitis or sore throat the
cough is hoarse, brassy, and can be induced by
sligntly choking the upper part of* the throat. It is
accompanied by more or less pain in swallowing,
and in some cases difliculty in breathing. In cases
of acute bronchitis the cough at first is short, dry,
and dull. It soon becomes easier and looser, and
can be excited by pressure on the chest. In chronic
bronchitis the cough is hacking and persistent, and
continues week after week without change in char-
acter or severity. In pneumonia the cough is at
first short, dry, and intermittent. Later it becomes
more frequent, and the matter brought up is of a

313

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

reddish tint like iron rust. This is considered
diagnostic of the disease. In pleurisy the cough is
short, dry, hacking, and very psunful. In asthma
the cough is wheezy, the breathing jerky, and the
entire appearance is that of suffocation.

Treatment. — ^All coughs do not yield to the same
treatment. Some of the chronic coughs following
colds, distemper, pneumonia, and bronchitis are re-
lieved by cod liver oil. Dent's Distemperine will
cure many, while a cough syrup as follows is good
for others:

Liquor morphia, 2 drachms.
Syrup of squills, i oz.
Syrup of lemon, i oz.
Water to make three ozs.

Dose, from half a teaspoonfiil to a dessert
spoonful three or four times a day.

Dogs afflicted with hacking, gagging stomach
coughs should first be treated for worms with vermi-
fuge, and then have their systems toned up by a
course of treatment with condition pills.

Goiter. — Bronchocele and Goiter are terms ap-
plied to enlargements of the thyroid glands that are
located in the neck on each side of the windpipe
about halfway down to the chest. The cause of
these enlargements is not known. Some appear
over night, others are slower about developing.
Generally they are free from redness or pain, and
to the touch are soft and elastic. Occasionally they
are very hot and painful and increase in size so

314

DISEASES OF DOGS

rapidly as to interfere with breathing, and the patient
dies of suffocation. This affection is very common
among puppies and is not unusual among old dogs.
They are unsightly affairs, dangerous in some cases,
and should be removed.

Treatment. — ^The commonest treatment is paint-
ing with the tincture of iodine. Three applications,
with an interval of two days between each applica-
tion, is sufficient in some cases; in others it will be
necessary to use Dent's Goiter treatment, both
internal and external, to effect a cure.

NERVOUS DISEASES

The nervous system of the dog is very highly
developed, and consequently subject to a variety of
disorders, the most frequent being chorea, a dis-
ease whose pathology is not well understood, and
fits due commonly to worms, indigestion, distemper,
teething, etc.

Chorea. — The most satisfactory theory in re-
gard to the cause of this disorder is that the brain
cells controlling a certain muscle or set of muscles
are so weakened by the poison of distemper or some
other cause as to induce them to send out muscular
impulses without natural mental impulse or will-
power.

There is a form of chorea, due to a disturbed
nervous system, induced by blows or injuries or to
the presence of intestinal parasites which have de-
ranged the digestive organs. This form of chorea is
generally curable. The form which follows dis-

315

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

temper is not so amenable to treatment. There is
also another form of chorea that follows the use of the
imperfect vaccines and innoculations for distemper
that have been used so generally the last few years.
Chorea from this cause is almost always fatal.

Symptoms. — ^These are so prominent and char-
acteristic that there is no mistaking the disease, and
the peculiar involuntary twitching of the muscles
once seen is never forgotten. The entire body may
be affected. Generally it is only one set of muscles,
those of the foreleg or of the neck and shoulders, in
which case the head bobs up and down in a most
helpless manner. Where the hindlegs are affected
the dog will suddenly drop one of the limbs from
the hip downward, as if there were an entire loss of
strength and power. This is particularly noticeable
if it attempts to jump on a chair or table, for after
one or two attempts it falls on its side or in a heap
completely helpless.

The top of the head is often affected, and twitches
and throbs in a most peculiar manner, and the jerk-
ing is commonly observable about the muscles of
the eyelids, lips, and face. In severe cases of chorea
the general health is affected, and the animal shows
signs of suffering, probably due to anxiety and ap-
preciation of its helplessness. In mild cases it does
not affect the animal's general health, and some field
dogs have it all their lives without affecting their
usefulness. The owner, however, is annoyed by the
constant muscular movements and is always anxious

316

DISEASES OF DOGS

to efFect a cure. Some cases are quiet during sleep^
others are worse.

Treatment. — The disease occurs in the best-reg-
ulated kennels, but dogs properly treated for dis-
temper are less liable to the disease than those which
are given too powerful remedies.

In a case of chorea the first thing to do is to look
after the animal's general health. See that the
bowels act properly, and this is accomplished best
by dieting and the feeding of foods possessing lax-
ative properties, and not by resorting to physics.
If there is the slightest suspicion of worms, treat for
them, as they torment the nervous system beyond all
measure and are the cause of many attacks.

If there is a tendency to constipation use well-
boiled oatmeal, mutton broths with stale bread,
beef well boiled, or raw, lean beef chopped. Give a
condition pill after each meal to assist the stomach
in the process of digestion. If there is much de-
bility and weakness give emulsion of codliver oil.
The other drugs used are: arsenic, iron, nux vomica,
bromide of strontia, and strychnine in various doses
depending upon the age and size of the patient.

This disease is so slow in yielding to medicine that
many valuable dogs are given up as incurable which
could be cured if their owners only would persist in
the treatment and not be discouraged too easily.
Dent's special remedies can be recommended as
easily administered and adapted to dogs of all
ages and sizes. Of course, if administered at the
II 317

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

first appearance of the disease the chances for re-
covery are much greater than in old or neglected

Fits. — ^Fits and convulsions are of commoner oc-
currence in dogs than in other domestic animals,
because the nervous organization of the dog is more
highly developed and sensitive.

Causes. — ^These are various, such as excitement,
worms, teething, exhaustion, overheating, indiges-
tion, and epilepsy.

Treatment. — During the convulsions the body
should be kept warm and the head cold by applying
ice to it or bathing it in cold water. This will re-
lieve the patient, after which the cause should be
sought and removed. If from worms, give vermifuge;
if due to teething, remove the milk teeth when loose
and lance the gums where the second teeth are
attempting to force their way through; if the result
of indigestion or a weak stomach, apply the reme-
dies suggested for the cure of indigestion.

3^8

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

The health and happiness of a dog depend upon
its surroundings and the attention given its sleeping
quarters, food, grooming, washing, and habits of life;
for a healthy dog which is forced to occupy dirty,
vermin-infested quarters and subsist on unwholesome
food, and which is seldom or never exercised,
groomed, or washed, will soon be in a miserable con-
dition — dull, lifeless, rough-coated, and out of sorts.

SLEEPING QUARTERS

Every dog should be provided with sleeping quar-
ters that he may consider his own. For a small pet
dog a basket is all that is necessary, and for bedding
there is nothing better than a folded Turkish towel, as
it can be washed easily and kept clean. Women are
partial to cushions for their pets. If these have re-
movable linen covers that can be changed and washed
two or three times a week, no objection need be
raised to them, but the fancy velvet or plush-covered
affairs commonly used are abominable, as it is im-
possible to keep them clean.

Large dogs which sleep in the house can be given
a rug. This should be aired and dusted daily and
washed at least once a week. Another good bed con-
sists of a woodeii frame about six inches deep over

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

which is tacked a piece of canvas or burlap, like the
head of a drum.

If a dog is kept out-of-doors it must be provided
with a kennel. A very simple one may be made from
a kerosene barrel, the objectionable smell being
removed by burning a handful of shavings in the
barrel. This will ignite what remains of its past con-
tents and the flames can be smothered by turning the
open end of the barrel to the ground. With a piece of
canvas hung over its front, that the dog can push
to one side when going in or out, this will make a
water and wind-proof kennel that is free from crevices
that harbor vermin.

If it is concluded to have a carpenter construct
a kennel, have the entrance at the side and not at
one end. A bench open in front, but protected at the
sides and top, on which a dog can rest and enjoy the
air, will add to its comfort. The top should be re-
movable so as to permit of easy and thorough clean-
ing of the sleeping apartment.

Whenever it is possible to do so, place the kennel
under a shed that is open to the south or east. This
will render it cooler in summer and warmer in win-
ter, and in every way more comfortable than if the-
roof of the kennel be exposed directly to the ele-
ments.

If a number of dogs are kept larger buildings must
be provided, and the architect and builder should be
consulted.

Kennels should always be placed on clay or
black soil, for fleas are very partial to and breed in

320

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

the sand, and inmates of a kennel located on sandy
soil are sure to be infested with fleas.

If the dog is to be kept on a chain, a strong wire
on which is an easily sliding ring should be stretched
from a post near the kennel to another post or
tree some distance away, so that by snapping the
dog's chain to the sliding ring he will have greater
opportunity to exercise than if he were chained to his
kennel or post. In these days of cheap wire netting
it is better to provide a dog with a yard in which
he can exercise freely, as the constant tugging when
on a chain sometimes affects a dog's throat and chest
or the conformation of his shoulders.

BEDDING

In warm weather a dog requires little or no bed-
ding and is probably more comfortable on bare boards.
During cold weather oat straw makes the warmest
and most comfortable bed, as it does not mat and
is free from the seeds and dust that are the chief
objections to hay. During the fall and summer pine
shavings make a good bedding, as they are ob-
jectionable to fleas, and this property can be inten-
sified by sprinkling them with turpentine. In flea-
infested sections some breeders mix tobacco scraps
with the bedding. Another excellent practice is to
lay a strip of tarred paper under the bedding.
Every momine the bedding should be stirred up and
examined. Ir it is dusty, damp, dirty, or packed
down, it should be renewed, and to insure its being
fresh should be changed once a week at least.

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

FEEDING

The dog is a carnivorous animal and in a state
of nature lives on an all-meat diet. Domestication
and association with man have so altered its organs
of digestion that it now thrives best on a mixed diet —
one containing meat, grain, and vegetables. Meat
does not afFect the scent of a dog nor does it cause
germ diseases or worms, as is frequently stated, and a
dog which has sufficient exercise would thrive on an
all-meat diet. But when the life led is artificial and
the opportunities for exercise limited, the danger
from feeding too much meat lies in the fact that meat
is so stimulating that it loads the system with
impurities that the organs of the body are unable
to eliminate, thereby resulting in diseases of the skin.

Dogs should be fed twice a day. In the morning
give a light meal, consisting preferably of one or two
Spratt's Dog Cakes. These should be fed dry, so
that the dog will gnaw at them, thereby stimulating
the secretion of saliva that is important to insure
complete digestion. Feed a heavy meal at night,
allowing the animal to eat until satisfied, for a dog
always sleeps best on a full stomach. Dogs should
never be allowed to nose over their food. As soon as
they show that they have had enough the remnants
of the meal should be immediately removed.

Feeding time affords the owner a favorable op-
portunity of informing himself as to the health
of his dogs. If a dog does not eat his evening meal
with the usual gusto, take it away and let him fast

322

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

until the next day. Then try him again, and if he
still refuses to eat, or only noses his food, consider him
sick and take means to restore him to health. All
that most cases require are a few doses of Dent's
Condition Pills. If the bowels are constipated and
the liver is out of order, it may be necessary to give
a laxative pill to insure a good cleansing of the
system. Cases due to worms or distemper should
be given proper treatment.

Pet dogs suffer from overfeeding and the promiscu-
ous use of sweets and other candies that produce
indigestion and other ailments. The proper diet
for them is Spratt's Dog Cakes, stale or toasted
bread and milk, a little well-cooked, lean meat, beef
broths, etc., with an occasional bone of good size.

If but one or two dogs are kept, table scraps, if
fresh, not too highly seasoned, and free from chicken
or fish bones, make a satisfactory and wholesome diet.

Where a number of dogs are kept, an excellent
food can be prepared by boiling sheep or beef heads
until soft and then thickening the liquor in which
they are boiled with stale bread, crackers, vegetables,
and meal.

Nearly all dogs are fond of boiled liver, and it can
be given with good results once or twice a week,
as it has a very desirable laxative effect upon the
bowels.

Dog cakes have come into general use in the last
few years, and although some dogs refuse to eat
them, a little tact and perseverance upon the part
of the owner will accustom the dog to them. They

3^3

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

form a very satisfactory diet and the trouble of
feeding is reduced to the minimum.

Puppies can be weaned by dipping their noses
into a pan of milk. They proceed to lick the milk
off from their noses and soon learn to lap it. They
should be fed at least six times a day on milk that
has been scalded; to it can gradually be added
broken crackers and other solid food. Sour milk
also should be given two or three times a week, as
it is a preventive of worms.

WATERING

Dogs can go several days without food and escape
serious consequences, but any restriction in their
supply of drinking water will be followed by eruptions
of the skin and a disgusting odor from the body. It is,
therefore, important that dogs have before them at
all times an unfailing supply of fresh water. During
warm weather this must be frequently changed,
to insure its being cool and pure. Earthenware
crocks make good drinking vessels, as they can be
kept clean without much labor, and are not easily
tipped over. No benefit is derived from placing a
lump of sulphur in the water, as sulphur is a mineral
that will not dissolve in water.

WASHING

Dogs from time to time require washing to re-
move the accumulations of dirt and the fine scales
that the skin is constantly exfoliating.

324

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

When washing dogs every precaution should be
taken to prevent the animal contracting cold. If the
bath is to be given out of doors during the summer,
a warm, sunshiny day should be selected; if in the
house, see that the room is properly heated, and
do not allow the animal to enter the open air until
the coat and skin are thoroughly dry. In washing
large breeds, such as St. Bernards, they can be
placed on some clean surface; collies and setters can
be placed in an ordinary tub, while a footpan answers
for small dogs. Fill the receptacle with lukewarm
water as high as the dog's knees. The animal's coat
should then be moistened all over, beginning at the
neck and shoulders, either pouring on the water from
a small tin cup or using a sponge. Dog soap should
then be rubbed well into the coat, more water gradu-
ally added, and the animal carefully rubbed until
a profuse lather is produced. The head should be
washed last and care exercised that soap or water
does not gain entrance to the ears or eyes. Allow the
lather to remain on a few moments and then rinse off
with clean water.

The animal must now be carefully dried with a
coarse towel, those made from a salt sack cut into
suitable sizes being efficient and durable.

Even after a dog has been thoroughly dried there
is danger of its taking cold, and while most authori-
ties advise giving a freshly washed dog a warm
kennel or a bed before the fire, a better procedure
is to blanket it lightly and induce it to exercise for
fifteen or twenty minutes. The natural warmth of

325

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

the body, induced by exercise and retained by a
blanket, will restore the natural circulation quicker
than artificial heat. If the weather is such that the
dog cannot be safely exercised out-of-doors, ex-
ercise him in a warm room and give him a warm
bed of clean straw. A good meal at this time will
nourish him and stimulate his powers of resistance.
Therefore, the best time to wash a dog is about one
hour before feeding time.

When washing long-haired toy breeds, such as
Yorkshires, place the dog in a pan and cleanse his
coat by brushing him with a long-handled hair brush
kept saturated with the soapy water. By preserving
the part of the hair down the dog's back, all danger of
snarling the coat will be avoided. Rinse in clear
water and dry by brushing before a fire with
two or more ordinary hair brushes that can be
alternately warmed and used.

When washing collies it is advisable to dissolve
the soap in the water instead of applying it directly
to the dog's coat, and in drying this breed brush the
hair the wrong way and force the air into the coat
with a fan.

EXERCISE

Dogs require plenty of exercise and unless they
get it are unhealthy and liable to attacks of skin
diseases, indigestion, constipation, and other bowel
complaints. Some of the active breeds, like collies
and setters, will get all the exercise they require
if turned loose for a thirty-minute run, twice a day.

326

CARE AND MANAGEMENT

Large breeds, like St. Bernards, are not so easily taken
care of. They require a slow walk for at least an
hour every day, and if it is not given them their
bones and muscles do not develop properly. Pet
dogs, such as toy spaniels or pugs, should be given
a run every day, and it is an excellent idea to teach
them to chase a rubber ball indoors, as in this way
they can be given considerable exercise. On returning
from exercising a dog, don't forget to examine his
feet for cuts, pieces of glass, thorns, or splinters.

GROOMING

There is an old stable adage that a grooming
is worth more than a feed. This is also true of dogs.
A dog should be brushed and rubbed down every
day. Brushes and combs are, of course, useful
implements for removing snarls and burrs, but after
the coat is straightened out and the snarls removed,
nothing is so good for putting on the finish as the
naked hand, and a little care of this kind will work
wonders in the dog's appearance.

FLEAS AND LICE

Fleas are the greatest annoyance dogs have to
contend with. The common flea does not lay her
eggs on the dog, as commonly supposed, but in piles
of rubbish, cracks in the floor, carpets, and rugs.
These eggs hatch out in about four weeks, and jump
upon the first dog that comes their way. The lather
from most dog soap will kill fleas and lice; but if

327

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

the dog is returned to flea-infested quarters, he will
probably accumulate another crop. The importance
of keeping the yard and kennel clean, and the neces-
sity ot using some good disinfectant are evident. To
properly disinfect a kennel sweep up and bum all
old bedding and rubbish and then scrub the walls
and woodwork with common brown soap and plenty
of warm water; also dash buckets of boiling water
over the floors and woodwork. Hot water, soap, and
elbow grease are the best all-around disinfectants.
To destroy odors, sprinkle the quarters with one of
the commercial disinfectants.

3^8

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

TeIe breeding of dogs and other domesticated ani-
mals U an art and not a science. Galton, a writer on
hereditfr who has been extensively read and followed,
reduced the breeding problem to an arithmetical
proposition and laid down a simple rule that each
parent contributed one-half to the physical and men-
tal make-up of the offspring; consequently the grand-
parents each Contributed one-fourth; the great-grand-
parents, one-sixteenth, and remoter ancestors pro-
portionately fractional parts.

These conclusions, from a mathematical point,
are correct; from \ practical breeder's aspect, they
are monumental it-rors. Galton's theories did not
explain the mysterious changes that are constantly
taking place in animals. They were flatly con-
tradicted by the fact that individual peculiarities
are frequently lost in one generation, and no solu-
tion was offered for the perplexing problem why some
animals with certain traits or characteristics impress
them conspicuously upon their offspring, while other
peculiarities fully as pronounced in the individual
are absent in the progeny. If Galton's rule was
founded upon facts, the generally accepted breeders'
aphorisms of "like begets like," and "breed from the
best," would be above criticism or qualification,
and as it is the soundness of these two apothegms
as a general working rule for the breeder will not be

329

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

questioned; but it can be truly said that they do >t
constitute the beginning and the end of the breeci^*
art.

HEREDITY AND EVOLUTION

The great forces in nature are heredity ant evo-
lution. They are radically opposed to eac* other
and in slow but unceasing conflict. Heredity, the
master and passive force, is opposed "O change
and makes all living things a product vf their an-
cestors, with all their defects and weak ^esses as well
as their excellences.

Evolution, on the contrary, is con?iantly effecting
changes in both the physical and mental make-up of
animals, so as to adapt them better to the conditions
under which they live. Heredivy, the base upon
which all breeders operate, can be relied upon to
transmit from parents to young all of the physical
and mental peculiarities that have become fixed and
have existed in the family for a number of genera-
tions, but it will not transmit with any degree of
certainty individual peculiarities that are not family
traits. Whenever individual peculiarities appear,
heredity aims to remove and obliterate them, and
is concerned only in the perpetuation of the estab-
lished family type.

As an illustration, a certain strain of fox terriers
may have splendid legs and bodies, but as a rule
are short in head. A dog of this strain may come
out with a long, clean, and in every way desirable
head, and his body and general conformation be fully

330

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

up to the high standard of his family. A dog of this
kind would be bred too extensively and bitches with
all kinds of head would be sent to him. If a number
of his puppies be examined after they arrive at or
approach maturity, it will be seen that while as
a rule these puppies display the general symmetry
that distinguishes the family of the sire, they still
have the family defects in head. The sire had a good
head, but heredity would not transmit it with any
degree of certainty because it was not a characteristic
of the family or a dominant trait.

The successful breeder, while he does not lose sight
of the excellences of individuals, concerns himself
chiefly with the excellences of families. If he has a
fox terrier bitch which is symmetrical and generally
desirable, with the exception that she has a soft
coat, he does not breed her to a dog with a good
coat unless he is sure that good coats are a character-
istic of the family of which the dog is a member.
If he had a bad-bodied, but nice-headed, collie, he
would look around for the best dog which came from
a family which were noted for their good bodies. It
is by having a thorough knowledge of pedigrees and
the general characteristics of certain families that
breeders succeed in making those combinations of
blood that are known as successful nicks, and these,
when arrived at, should be adhered to as closely as
possible.

331

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

IN-BREEDING

In connection with the breeding subject there are
certain laws and principles that must be observed.
The most important of them is in-breeding. In the
development of our most valuable breeds or domestic
animals, in-breeding has been the main reliance of
the breeder, and it has been practiced so closely and
extensively that among some people the word in-bred
has been accepted as synonymous with pure bred.
This is a great error. Animals can be in-bred without
being pure bred, and pure-bred animals are not
necessarily in-bred. Correctly speaking, in-breeding
is simply the mating together of animals closely
related. The results of judicious in-breeding are
a uniformity of type and a smoothness and finish
that can be arrived at so quickly in no other way,
and it makes possible the perpetuation of desirable
characteristics. The effects of careless, injudicious
in-breeding are loss of size and strength, weakened
constitutions, susceptible to disease, and impotency.
The continuance and closeness with which in-breed-
ing can be practiced with safety depend upon the
character of the animals the breeder is attempting
to improve. With breeds of recent origin, among
which there is much irregularity, slight relationship
and little likeness in either shape, size, or temper-
ament, in-breeding can be practiced frequently with-
out fear of bad results, until such time as uniformity
is arrived at. After that it must be practiced with
care. Among animals that are pure bred, more or

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

less related, and which breed true to a uniform type,
in-breeding should not be practiced any more than
is necessary to keep the blood pure or to preserve
successful nicks.

CORRELATION

This principle is, that change in one organ or
part of the body cannot be accomplished without
modifications and changes in other parts of the
system, and explains the difficulty breeders have in
producing freakish specimens that will breed true to
type, as nature insists through the operation of this
law that a careful balance be kept between all the
organs and parts of the body. A lone-backed dog in
nature's plan should have a long head, and vice
versa. Terrier breeders who have been trying for
long heads and short backs know how difficult it is
to circumvent this principle. It is also understood
that a high degree of development in one part of the
body is accomplished only with a lack of develop-
ment in other parts, and this applies to special senses
and mental traits as well as physical features. As
an illustration: In reptiles, fishes, or long-snouted
herbivorous animals, the increased development of
the bones of the face is at the expense of the cerebral
cavity. The lower forms of apes have large faces and
small heads. In man the bones of the face are com-
paratively small, while those covering the brain are
largely developed. This is worthy of consideration
by setter and pointer breeders, for the bench show
standards call for setters with long, square muzzles,

" 333

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

bench-show advocates deplore the fact that the type
of setter developed by field trials has lost the old
square muzzle and become what they term snipy-
muzzled, and assert that this is an evidence of lack
of intelligence. A greater error is impossible of
conception, and the so-called snipy muzzle of field
trial dogs is to competent biologists the strongest
evidence of increased mental capacity, and the
aggressive bird-hunting instinct of dogs bred from
field trial ancestry is sufficient evidence that the
American setter and pointer are being developed
upon natural lines, for the relations existing between
structure and function are such that by developing
and breeding for bird-hunting instincts we will arrive
at a structure that is useful, rational, and will breed
true to type.

ATAVISM

This factor or principle in breeding is called
by breeders casting back, or throwing back, and
refers to the occurrence of an individual which re-
resembles its grandparents, great-grandparents, or
some remote ancestor more than it does its parents.
Cases of atavism occur most frequently when cross-
breeding has been resorted to at some more or less
remote period. The purer bred and more uniform the
type for the greatest number of years, the less fre-
quent the appearance of cases illustrating this prin-
ciple. Atavism is not the result of a failure or loss of
power of heredity, and the only conclusion to be

334

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

drawn from its occurrence is, that a trait or character-
istic that had been dominant in the family of some
ancestor had by process of nature been suppressed
or held dormant until by another peculiar process of
nature it received an opportunity to assert itself
and become dominant.

PRE-NATAL IMPRESSIONS

There is a widespread belief that an impression
made upon the mother's mind while she is carry-
ing her young will influence their intra-uterine de-
velopment, and in this way abnormalities, birthmarks,
and peculiarities in structure and color are accounted
for. This belief owes its popularity as much as any-
thing to the fact that the Bible credits Jacob with
breeding cattle which were ring-streaked, spreckled,
and spotted, simply through the influence upon the
minds of the females of the herd made by a row of
peeled rods. Modern biologists attach no great im-
portance to mental impressions; birthmarks are
largely the result of inflammations of the uterus,
and the resemblances, fancied or otherwise, of arms
and legs to lower animals are simply cases of arrested
embryonic development or the result of mechanical
pressure from the ligaments of the uterus or the
umbilical cord. It is generally conceded that the
habitual mental condition of the mother has an
influence upon the fluids supporting the embryo,
but this cannot be regarded as a direct mental im-
pression upon either the foetus or its development.

335

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

TELOGENY

This subject, "Does the first impregnation of the
female have any influence upon the progeny of subse-
quent breeding to other sires?" has been for years,
and still remans, a disputed question. Scientists are
arrayed on both sides of the question. Among dog
breeders, the popular opinion is that it does, and
many of the breeders who look wth suspicion upon
a bitch which has suffered a misalliance have had
personal experiences with which to support their
position.

336

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

WHELPING TABLE.

M
R

•

If
ii

•

11
It

13
14

1ft

14
1ft

1ft

18
10

s«

s»

Sft

«&

Sft

tft
SB

s«

Sft

tft

«7

MAI

MS.
1

ILT
1

PBC

AUG

OCT

VOV

lAII
1

..1*

^^^

337

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

THE BROOD BITCH

A bitch usually comes in season for breeding twice
a year. The first time when she reaches maturity,
which will be at from seven to ten months of age,

Her condition can be recognized by restlessness,
frequent urination, attention to other dogs, and a
mucous discharge from the vagina, at first thin and
watery, later streaked with blood, and finally of
the appearance of pure blood. She should be isolated
at once and carefully protected from the attentions
of other dogs.

A bitch can be bred the first time that she comes
in season, but it is better to wait for the second sea-
son before asking her to take up the burden of
maternity, for it is a heavy drain upon the system.
It is important that both of the parents of a pros-
pective litter be of good health and free from worms
or skin diseases: most of the puppies which die be-
fore reaching maturity are the progeny of unhealthy
parents. The period of gestation in the bitch is
from fifty-seven to sixty-three days; sixty-one bdng
the average.

It is easier to raise puppies during the spring and
summer than it is during the fall and winter, and
for that reason make the matings accordingly. The
whelping table indicates the dates puppies can be
expected after the service dates.

During the period of gestation the bitch should
be exercised regularly but not violently, her diet
should be varied and wholesome, such as Spratt's

338

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

Cakes, whole wheat bread, vegetables, well-cooked
meat varied with raw i^ieat, boiled rice, fresh milk,
and soups mixed with some preparation of bone
meal so as to provide bone-making material for her
prospective litter. About the third week it is well
to treat the mother for worms, and a few days be-
fore she is due to whelp give her a dose or two of olive
oil as constipation should be avoided at this 'time.
What is needed is a mild purgative. Olive oil is
usually sufficient, but if she is badly constipated, a
mixture of olive oil and castor oil may be necessafy.

Strong, healthy bitches can usually be trusted to
take care of themselves. If possible they should be
allowed to occupy their customary quarters. It is
important that they be quiet, comfortable, warm,
and free from draughts. Provide plenty of clean
wheat or oat straw in which she can make her own
nest, and after she has her puppies the less she is
bothered the better. The person who looks after
her should be one to whom she is accustomed.
She may refuse food for the first few hours after her
labors, but light nourishment should be offered her,
such as warm milk or beef tea. Do not neglect to
have a bowl of fresh water by her at all times.

In the case of pet dogs that have lived under highly
artificial conditions the whelping is not always so
easily carried on, and assistance is frequently neces-
sary. If no veterinarian is available and the labor
pains have begun and continue without result.
Ergot may be resorted to. The dose of the extract
is about ten drops for a ten-pound bitch, fifteen for

339

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

one weighing twenty pounds, etc; it should be ad-
ministered in a teaspoonful of water and given by the
mouth. If a puppy is bom and the mother is unable
to break the membrane in which it is enclosed, the
umbilical cord should be severed with a pair of
sharp scissors and the membrane broken with the
fingers. If a puppy is born and the mother is unable
to develop any signs of life by licking, and she is
obliged to turn her attention to another that is being
born, the apparently lifeless puppy should be quietly
removed, and, for a few moments, placed in a bowl
of warm water up to its neck. A finger should then
be moistened with a drop of brandy and applied
to the puppy's tongue. This will sometimes start
a puppy to breathing, after which it should be
carefully dried, warmed, and returned to the dam as
promptly as possible.

After the puppies are all born, restrain any desire
to examine them. Leave them with their mother,
who should be offered warm milk every hour.

NURSING AND WEANING

The important point in feeding the nursing mother
is to select and carefully prepare her food, and feed
it in smaller quantities, and at shorter intervals
than usual, so as not to overload or disturb hftr stom-
ach, as a derangement of the mother's stomach
is reflected in her puppies. A good diet for a nursing
bitch is as follows: For the first day after whelping she
should be fed milk and raw eggs in the proportion

340

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

of two eggs to the pint of milk, not a large quantity
at any one time, but every two hours. The second
day give a pan of fresh milk to which lime water
has been added in the proportion of a cup of lime
water to a pint of milk; this should be thickened
with well-boiled rice, dog cakes, or stale bread; at
noon give a more substantial meal, adding meat, either
cooked or raw, minced fine and in the proportion
of one third the amount of biscuits or cereal; at
night feed equal quantities of meat, vegetables, and
cereals softened with milk or soup, and before going
to bed, a drink of milk may be offered. The meat
should be lean, free from fat, and mixed with the
vegetables, and the cereals so that it cannot be
picked out.

Some bitches are so solicitious for the care of their
puppies that they are loathe to leave them for ex-
ercise. After the first day they should be encouraged
to leave for a short walk at least twice a day. Watch
the condition of their bowels. If there is any tend-
ency to constipation give olive oil in suitable doses.
If the bowels are too loose give bismuth in doses of
ten grains up to a dram.

Leave the mother and her puppies alone as long
as they are doing well. Simply see that they have a
warm, comfortable nest if the weather is cold, and
a cool {$lace in the heated days of summer. Use
every precaution to protect them against flies, for a
few flies will keep a bitch and her puppies miserable.
When the puppies are a week or ten days old their
eyes open, they begin to crawl about, and there is

34^

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

more expression to their whines and attempts at
barking. The mother must now be encouraged to
leave them for an hour or two each day for a slow,
quiet walk. After the first two weeks she will likely
spend less and less time with them, but at night she
should always be with them as they require her
presence to keep them warm. It requires two or
three weeks to wean a litter of puppies. Milk is, of
course, the staple diet. It should be fresh and of full
strength, as the milk of a bitch is stronger than that
of a cow. To teach puppies to drink milk, simply dip
their noses into the pan; they will lick it off their lips,
and after two or three times they will do their own
dipping, and in a short time are lapping industriously.
The milk can then be thickened with puppy meal,
stale bread, Spratt's puppy cakes, boiled rice, and in
a few weeks they will be ready for a still more sub-
stantial diet. It is well to bear in mind that the rule
in feeding puppies should be little and often — ^four
or five times a day. Sprinkle bone meal over their
food. Egg shells well beaten up are good with beef
or mutton bones to gnaw, but beware of fish and
chicken bones.

In drying up a bitch do not make the mistake
of taking the puppies away too soon, and be sure to
allow some of the puppies to nurse until her breasts
are entirely dry. In case it is necessary to destroy a
litter of puppies, always allow one or two of them to
live and nurse the mother until her breasts are dry,
otherwise she will undergo great suffering and it is
liable to leave her with caked breasts. When the

34^

THE LAWS OF BREEDING

puppies are six weeks old treat them for worms with
Dent's puppy vermifuge. This treatment should be
repeated every two or three months until they are
grown, and after that give them a dose of Dent's
vermifuge twice a year.

As a usual thing the first puppies born are the
strongest, and the popular opinion is that they will
grow up that way. There is, however, no fixed rule
about these things. In large litters the last puppy
is usually the smallest, and breeders usually agree
that it will never attain the size of its predecessors.
This may be borne in mind when selecting puppies.
The number of puppies that a bitch will bring up
safely depends upon her size and strength. As a gen-
eral rule, it is not wise to ask too much of her.

If the mother is short of milk, it is well to provide
a foster mother. The breed is of no importance
so long as the individual is sound and healthy.
Puppies can be brought up on a bottle if necessary.
Ordinary cow's milk is not as good in these cases as
Spratt's special food for that purpose, or one of the
peptonized milks or infant's foods that are used for
babies. As we have said before, the principal thing
to be avoided is intestinal parasites; therefore be sure
that the mother is free from them before her puppies
are brought into the world.

343

TRAINING

The power of speech is the only limit to the pos-
sibilities of a dog's education; for amiability, rare
intelligence, powers of reasoning, and wonderful in-
stincts are coupled with a devotion to and faithful-
ness for its master that prompt it to obey his every
wish,' and as a result the human race in all ages and
under all conditions has looked upon the dog with
a friendly eye, cultivated his companionship, and,
by training, has adapted his powers and instincts
to various uses. It is stated by authorities on agri-
cultural subjects that without the trained collie,
sheep raising in large sections of the Highlands of
Scotland could not be profitably conducted. In the
far north commercial connections and explorations
are possible only through the hardihood of the
Eskimo Huskie, and field sports without carefully
broken dogs would prove tame and uninteresting and
degenerate into 'mere butchery.

The education of the dog which is intended as a
house pet or companion is fully as important as that
of the breeds previously mentioned, for a carefully
trained dog is a far more agreeable and useful com-
panion than one which is allowed to grow up without
proper attention to the development of his mental
powers and instincts, and a man who loves dogs and
nas come into possession of a valuable puppy should

344

TRAINING

no more think of neglecting its education than he
would that of his children.

EFFECTS OF TRAINING

Under training a dog's appearance improves and
it acquires a knowing, keen, sagacious appearance
that distinguishes it from the heavy, stupid expres-
sion and sleepy looks of one whose education has
been neglected, and there is no excuse for a man
or woman owning a dog which will not come when
called, which barks at horses and strangers, climbs
over you with muddy paws, kills chickens, tears up
carpets and curtains, and conducts itself generally
like a spoiled child, when by a little early training
it could have been taught to come promptly at com-
mand, walk quietly at heel, lie down at a word,
retrieve from land or water, guard any object that
may be given it, go on errands, bring your slippers or
paper, do little tricks that amuse its master and his
friends, and conduct itself decorously and mannerly,
so that every one will admire it.

TRAINING AGE

A dog, like a child, must have a period of infancy,
but do not defer its lessons until the period of youth-
fulness has passed. There is considerable difference
in the time required for development in the various
breeds. Small dogs are fully developed in less than
one year, medium-sized dogs in from ten to eighteen
months, while the St. Bernards and other large

345

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

dogs require about two years to attain their full
growth. Females usually develop faster and learn
easier than males. The training of a high-spirited
dog of one of the medium-sized varieties may be
begun when it is four or five months old; that of
one of the toy breeds should be started about a
month or so earlier, and of a St. Bernard, Great
Dane, or other large breed a couple of months
later.

If you have come into posssession of a timid puppy,
which is afr^d of loud noises or new scenes, do
not attempt to train him until he overcomes his
nervousness. The best way to do this is to take your
dog around with you to different places where there
are loud noises. If the puppy is only a little fellow,
pick him up in your arms and hold him, but do
not talk to him or tell him too much. Dogs are very
observing animals and pay a great deal of attention to
your actions, and if you begin to pet a young or timid
dog every time he hears a new noise, he will believe
from your actions that there is really something to
fear; if, however, you pay no attention to the noise,
he will be impressed by your lack of concern and soon
come to the conclusion that there is nothing to fear.

REWARDS AND PUNISHMENTS

A young puppy, that is, one under four or five
months ot age, should never be whipped — a good
scolding will answer the purpose better — and in
talking to your dog do not confuse him by shouting

346

TRAINING

or yelling at him, and, above all, do not give two or
three different commands without giving him time to
understand or obey any one of them. Always speak
in your ordinary tone of voice and go about things
coolly and rationally, remembering you have plenty
of time and that what the puppy does not learn to-
day may be inculcated to-morrow. Always use the
same words in ordering a dog to do the same things.
The importance of doing this cannot be too forcibly
impressed upon all those who desire to attain suc-
cess in training.

The whip should be used sparingly, and never even
scold a dog, much less whip him, unless you are
absolutely confident that the dog knows what he
is being punished for. When you whip a dog, and
it is seldom necessary to do so, apply the lash slowly
and deliberately, with well-marked intervals be-
tween each stroke, and let the last stroke be the
lightest, giving the dog plenty of time for reflection
before continuing the walk or lesson, or allowing him
to do anything else. Do not whip a dog and then
get effusive; let him reason it out for himself and
conduct yourself quietly, and your pupil will most
likely crawl up to you. If then given a kindly word,
or a pat on the head, he will go on with the work or
lesson with a distinct remembrance of having been
detected in the commission of fault and of being
punished for committing it, and you will have re-
tained his confidence and affection^ which are ab-
solutely necessary for success.

It is all very well to praise a dog after he has

347

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

obeyed you, or has performed some trick, but never
praise him while performing; keep quiet until he has
finished and then bestow your favor.

TRAINING METHODS

All the lessons are rudimentary, short, gentle, and
easy, and should be taught in a way that does not
altogether check the pupil's spirit of playfulness,
although the trainer must be careful not to indulge
too freely in play. The main consideration at first
is to give the dog a slight idea of what control really
is and to encourage a desire to please you; care,
however, must be exercised that the lessons are
not continued so long as to tire and disgust the
pupil.

A puppy's first lesson must be given when you are
alone, as in no other way can you hope to hold his
attention; ten minutes at a rime is long enough
for a lesson, repeated three or four times a day,
and if there are any signs of tiring or disgust end the
instruction sooner. The trainer will be obliged to
exercise considerable judgment in deciding where the
attention to the lesson ends and is succeeded by
sulkiness. Inasmuch as the lessons should be car-
ried on so as to interest the dog and with some re-
gard to its pleasure, it is advisable to reward your
pupil after each lesson with some tid-bit, such as a
small piece of boiled liver.

The training of dogs and children is accomplished
along the same general lines, as neither must be

348

TRAINING

forced or crowded; interest must be stimulated by
words of encouragement or rewards, and attention
to the task at hand enforced by gentle and carefully
gloved firmness. The first lesson should be so ad-
ministered as to make it easier to inculcate the
second, and a feeling of regard and confidence be-
tween teacher and pupil should be cultivated at all
times.

In training dogs, the fact should always be borne
in mind that a puppy which has lived in the world
only five or six months has not had a very lengthy
opportunity to gain knowledge of the world's aflFairs,
and its brain is as yet undeveloped. We do not ex-
pect any display of intelligence in a child five or six
months old, and it is unreasonable to expect more
of a dog of that age than you would of a child several
times as old. Simply bear in mind that a puppy
is anxious to please you, and as soon as his little,
undeveloped, playful brain comprehends what you
want he will do it. It may test your own patience
and intelligence to make him understand your wishes,
but perseverance and kindness will attain the desired
result.

If your dog is kept in a kennel or on a chain, let
him have a good run to loosen up his joints and work
ofiF some of his enthusiasm before you start in with his
lessons.

349

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

HOUSE BREAKING

This is the first lesson that should be taught a
dog. Dogs are naturally clean animals, but puppies,
like children, are thoughtless. It is an absolute
necessity that dogs which are to be kept in the house
should be clean in their habits, and any mistakes they
may make after they are eight or ten weeks old
should receive prompt attention and correction. Of
course, a two-months-old puppy is too young to be
whipped; if it makes a mistake call its attention to
what it has done and then immediately put it out of
the house, and in a few days it will probably under-
stand why it was put out. If this does not produce
the desired effect, wait until you catch it in the act
and rub its nose in the mess it has made, and after
scolding it put it out of the house. A young puppy
must never be punished unless caught in the act, if
the proper effect is desired. An old, hardened of-
fender may be switched, but the whip as a rule should
be used sparingly, as there is always danger of con-
fusing and cowing a dog.

In teaching dogs cleanliness, give them opportuni-
ties for emptying themselves. If not so provided with
an opportunity, nature's necessities will compel
them to relieve themselves where they are kept, and it
would be unreasonable to punish a dog for what it
could not help. All dogs should be taken out-of-doors
the last thi^g at night and the first thing in the morn-
ing, and during the day several times, as opportuni-

35^

TRAINING

ties of this kind are absolutely necessary if they are
to be kept in good health.

MINDING THE WHISTLE

As a rule it does not take very long to train a dog to
come to the whistle. Always use the same whistle,
and it is advisable to blow it in a peculiar way, so
that the pupil will learn to understand its meaning.
You must be careful about punishing a dog for not
obeying the whistle. A good way to teach a dog
to obey promptly is to take him out for a run just
before he has had his dinner, and when he is keen
with hunger he will probably range away. When
he is some distance away blow a sharp blast of the
whistle, and, if necessary, call him in, and when he
returns hand him a piece of meat. Repeat this
several times during your walk, and after a repetition
of this lesson for a few days he will appreciate the
meaning of this call and return to you as soon as he
hears the whistle. It is possible to elaborate upon
this branch of his training and teach him to obey
a series of blasts as: Stop, at one blast; drop, at two
blasts; or come in, on three.

"Home,'* or "Go home," are words that every dog
should understand and should be taught to obey.
Begin by allowing the puppy to follow you only a
short distance, fifty or sixty feet, then turn around
and order him back home, if necessary advancing
toward him threateningly, and he will most likely
scamper back. The distance can be gradually in-

THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

creased until he will understand and obey the order,
no matter how far away you may be from your
residence.

"Kennel up" is a term that explains itself, and there
is no difficulty in teaching a dog to go to his kennel
when he hears it a few times and has been chased
into his kennel with a light switch. If he sleeps in
the house, the word basket or bed can be substituted
for kennel.

"Quiet." Does are prone to be noisy, and when
they bark too often, or keep it up longer than neces-
sary at the approach of a stranger or upon hearing
a strange noise, they should be cautioned with the
word quiet, repeated several times, and, if neces-
sary, enforced with a switch.

"No" is the most useful word in the vocabulary
of either dog or man, and your dog must be taught
its meaning if he is to be a useful and pleasant coni-
panion. Whenever he does anything that you do
not want him to do, say "no." If he is out with you
on the street and attempts to pick up any refuse, call
out "no" sternly and order him to you; if he does not
come, go to him and scold him and then lead him
away. If he does not profit by your scolding, switch
him and repeat the switching at every repetition of
the act.

Some dogs are too friendly with every one they
meet, and while you want your dog to be good-
natured and pleasant, you do not want him to mix
promiscuously, as he will be apt to follow some
stranger or be easily stolen. To teach one of these

TRAINING

promiscuous mixers and chummy dogs to exercise
more discretion in the way he makes up with people,
have a few strangers chase him away. This will
alarm him and he will hustle back to you for protec-
tion, and will soon develop more or less suspicion of
strangers and give you more of his affection. This
must be done carefully, because if he is chased
back too often or is scared too much he will become
a timid dog.

353

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